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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of In Indian Mexico (1908), by Frederick Starr
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: In Indian Mexico (1908)
+
+Author: Frederick Starr
+
+Release Date: July 2, 2005 [EBook #16183]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK IN INDIAN MEXICO (1908) ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Jonathan Ingram, Chuck Greif and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: THE MUSIC AT CANCUC]
+
+IN INDIAN MEXICO
+
+A NARRATIVE OF TRAVEL AND LABOR
+
+BY
+
+FREDERICK STARR
+
+CHICAGO FORBES & COMPANY
+
+Library of Congress Cataloging in Publication Data
+
+Starr, Frederick, 1858-1933. In Indian Mexico.
+
+
+Reprint of the ed. published by Forbes, Chicago. 1. Indians of Mexico.
+2. Mexico--Description and travel. 3. Starr, Frederick, 1858-1933. I.
+Title. F1220.S78 1978 972'.004'97 74-9025 ISBN 0-404-11903-4
+
+First AMS edition published in 1978.
+
+Reprinted from the edition of 1908, Chicago. [Trim size of the original
+has been slightly altered in this edition. Original trim size: 15.5 x
+23.7 cm. Text area of the original has been maintained in this edition.]
+
+IN INDIAN MEXICO IS AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED TO A.A. ROBINSON TO WHOM
+ALL MY WORK IN MEXICO IS DUE AND WHOSE INTEREST HAS BEEN CONTINUOUS AND
+UNFAILING
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE
+
+
+The reading public may well ask, Why another travel book on Mexico?
+Few countries have been so frequently written up by the traveler.
+Many books, good, bad, and indifferent, but chiefly bad, have been
+perpetrated. Most of these books, however, cover the same ground,
+and ground which has been traversed by many people. Indian Mexico is
+practically unknown. The only travel-book regarding it, in English, is
+Lumholtz's "Unknown Mexico." The indians among whom Lumholtz worked
+lived in northwestern Mexico; those among whom I have studied are in
+southern Mexico. The only district where his work and mine overlap is
+the Tarascan area. In fact, then, I write upon an almost unknown and
+untouched subject. Lumholtz studied life and customs; my study has been
+the physical type of south Mexican indians. Within the area covered by
+Lumholtz, the physical characteristics of the tribes have been
+studied by Hrdlicka. His studies and my own are practically the only
+investigations within the field.
+
+There are two Mexicos. Northern Mexico to the latitude of the capital
+city is a _mestizo_ country; the indians of pure blood within that area
+occupy limited and circumscribed regions. Southern Mexico is indian
+country; there are large regions, where the _mestizos_, not the indians,
+are the exception. From the time of my first contact with Mexican
+indians, I was impressed with the notable differences between tribes,
+and desired to make a serious study of their types. In 1895, the
+accidental meeting with a priest from Guatemala led to my making a
+journey to Central America. It was on that journey that I saw how the
+work in question might be done. While the government of Mexico is
+modeled upon the same pattern as our own, it is far more paternal in its
+nature. The Republic is a confederation of sovereign states, each of
+which has its elected governor. The states are subdivided into districts
+somewhat corresponding to our counties, over each of which is a _jefe
+politico_ appointed by the governor; he has no responsibility to those
+below him, but is directly responsible to the man who names him, and
+who can at will remove him; he is not expected to trouble the state
+government unnecessarily, and as long as he turns over the taxes which
+are due the state he is given a free hand. Within the districts are
+the cities and towns, each with its local, independent, elected town
+government.
+
+The work I planned to do among these indian towns was threefold: 1. The
+measurement of one hundred men and twenty-five women in each population,
+fourteen measurements being taken upon each subject; 2. The making
+of pictures,--portraits, dress, occupations, customs, buildings, and
+landscapes; 3. The making of plaster busts of five individuals in each
+tribe. To do such work, of course, involved difficulty, as the Indians
+of Mexico are ignorant, timid, and suspicious. Much time would be
+necessary, in each village, if one depended upon establishing friendly
+and personal relations with the people. But with government assistance,
+all might be done promptly and easily. Such assistance was readily
+secured. Before starting upon any given journey, I secured letters from
+the Department of Fomento, one of the Executive Departments of the
+Federal Government. These letters were directed to the governors of the
+states; they were courteously worded introductions. From the governors,
+I received letters of a more vigorous character to the _jefes_ of the
+districts to be visited. From the _jefes_, I received stringent orders
+upon the local governments; these orders entered into no detail, but
+stated that I had come, recommended by the superior authorities, for
+scientific investigations; that the local authorities should furnish the
+necessaries of life at just prices, and that they should supply such
+help as was necessary for my investigations. In addition to the orders
+from the _jefes_ to the town authorities, I carried a general letter
+from the governor of the state to officials of every grade within its
+limits. This was done in case I should at any time reach towns in
+districts where I had been unable to see the _jefe politico_. It was
+desirable, when possible, that the _jefe_ should be seen before serious
+work was undertaken. As Governor Gonzales of Oaxaca once remarked,
+when furnishing me a general letter: "You should always see the _jefe
+politico_ of the district first. These Indians know nothing of me, and
+often will not recognize my name; but the _jefe_ of their district they
+know, and his orders they will obey." In using these official orders, I
+adopted whatever methods were best calculated to gain my ends; success
+depended largely on my taking matters into my own hands. Each official
+practically unloaded me upon the next below him, with the expectation
+that I should gain my ends, if possible, but at the same time he felt,
+and I knew, that his responsibility had ended. In case of serious
+difficulty, I could not actually count upon the backing of any one above
+the official with whom I then was dealing.
+
+Upon the Guatemala expedition, which took place in January-March, 1896,
+my only companion was Mr. Ernst Lux, whose knowledge of the language,
+the country, and the people was of the utmost value. As the result of
+that journey, my vacations through a period of four years were devoted
+to this field of research. The first field expedition covered the
+period from November, 1897, to the end of March, 1898; the plan of work
+included the visiting of a dozen or more tribes, with interpreter,
+photographer, and plaster-worker; the success of the plan depended upon
+others. Dr. W.D. Powell was to serve as interpreter, Mr. Bedros
+Tatarian as photographer; at the last moment the plans regarding the
+plaster-worker failed; arrived in the field, Dr. Powell was unable to
+carry out his contract; the photographic work disintegrated, and failure
+stared us in the face. Reorganization took place. Rev. D.A. Wilson was
+secured as interpreter, two Mexican plaster-workers, Anselmo Pacheco of
+Puebla and Ramon Godinez of Guadalajara, were discovered, and work was
+actually carried through upon four tribes. The second field expedition
+covered the period of January-March, 1899; eight tribes were visited,
+and a most successful season's work was done; Charles B. Lang was
+photographer, Anselmo Pacheco plaster-worker, and Manuel Gonzales
+general helper. The third field season, January-March, 1900, was in
+every way successful, six populations being visited; my force consisted
+of Louis Grabic photographer, Ramon Godinez plaster-worker, and Manuel
+Gonzales general assistant. The work was brought to a conclusion in
+January-March, 1901, during which period six tribes were visited; the
+party was the same as the preceding year.
+
+"In Indian Mexico" claims to be only a narrative of travel and of work.
+It is intended for the general public. The scientific results of our
+expeditions have been published under the following titles:
+
+1. The Indians of Southern Mexico: an Ethnographic Album. Chicago, 1899.
+Cloth; oblong 4to; pp. 32. 141 full-page plates.
+
+2. Notes upon the Ethnography of Southern Mexico. 1900. 8vo, pp. 98. 72
+cuts, maps, etc. Proc. Dav. Acad. Nat. Sci., Vol. VIII.
+
+3. Notes on the Ethnography of Southern Mexico, Part II. 1902. 8vo, pp.
+109. 52 cuts, map, etc. Proc. Dav. Acad. Nat. Sci., Vol. IX.
+
+4. The Physical Characters of the Indians of Southern Mexico. 4to,
+59 pp. Sketch map, color diagram, and 30 double cuts. Decennial
+Publications, University of Chicago, 1902.
+
+5. The Mapa de Cuauhtlantzinco or Codice Campos. 1898. 8vo, pp. 38. 46
+engravings. University of Chicago Press.
+
+6. Recent Mexican Study of the Native Languages of Mexico. 1900. 8vo,
+pp. 19. 7 portraits.
+
+7. Picture of Otomi woman beating bark paper. Printed on sheet of the
+original paper; mounted.
+
+8. The Mapa of Huilotepec. Reproduction; single sheet, mounted.
+
+9. The Mapa of Huauhtla. Reproduction; single sheet, mounted.
+
+10. Survivals of Paganism in Mexico. The Open Court. 1899.
+
+11. Mexican Paper. American Antiquarian. 1900.
+
+12. The Sacral Spot in Maya Indians. Science. 1903.
+
+Naturally, in a work of such extent we have been under obligation
+to many parties. It is impossible to acknowledge, in detail, such
+obligations. We must, however, express our indebtedness, for assistance
+rendered, to the Mexican Central Railroad, the Mexican Railway, the
+Mexican National Railroad, the Tehuantepec Railroad, the Mexican
+Southern Railroad, and the Interoceanic Railroad; also to the Ward
+Line of steamers. Among individuals, it is no unfair discrimination to
+express especial thanks to Mr. A.A. Robinson and Mr. A.L. Van Antwerp.
+President Diaz has ever shown a friendly interest in my plans of work
+and the results obtained. Se�or Manuel Fernandez Leal, Minister of the
+Department of Fomento, more than any other official, lent us every aid
+and assistance in his power; his successor, Se�or Leandro Fernandez,
+continued the kindness shown by Minister Leal. And to all the governors
+of the states and to the _jefes_ of the districts we are under many
+obligations, and express to each and all our appreciation of their
+kind assistance. Those personal friends who have been helpful in this
+specific work in Indian Mexico are mentioned in the appropriate places
+in the text. To those companions and assistants who accompanied us upon
+the journeys a large part of the results of this work are due.
+
+CHICAGO, January, 1908.
+
+
+  CONTENTS
+
+  CHAPTER                                Page
+
+  I. PRIESTLY ARCHAEOLOGY                   1
+
+  II. WE START FOR GUATEMALA               13
+
+  III. THE LAND OF THE MIXES               22
+
+  IV. THROUGH CHIAPAS                      39
+
+  V. AT HUIXQUILUCAN                       56
+
+  VI. LAKE PATZCUARO                       68
+
+  VII. TO URUAPAN BEFORE THE RAILROAD      76
+
+  VIII. TLAXCALA                           85
+
+  IX. ZAMORA AND THE ONCE PUEBLOS          95
+
+  X. THE BOY WITH THE SMILE               108
+
+  XI. IN THE MIXTECA ALTA                 112
+
+  XII. THE MIXES REVISITED                142
+
+  XIII. ABOUT TEHUANTEPEC                 161
+
+  XIV. ON THE MAIN HIGH-ROAD              173
+
+  XV. CUICATLAN                           181
+
+  XVI. IN TLAXCALAN TOWNS                 188
+
+  XVII. IN THE CHINANTLA                  198
+
+  XVIII. TO COIXTLAHUACA                  216
+
+  XIX. HUAUHTLA AND THE MAZATECS          228
+
+  XX. TEPEHUAS AND TOTONACS               239
+
+  XXI. IN THE HUAXTECA                    274
+
+  XXII. IN MAYA LAND                      293
+
+  XXIII. OX-CART EXPERIENCES              328
+
+  XXIV. AT TUXTLA GUTIERREZ               351
+
+  XXV. TZOTZILS AND TZENDALS              360
+
+  XXVI. CHOLS                             381
+
+  XXVII. CONCLUSION                       395
+
+  GLOSSARY                                399
+
+  APPENDIX                                405
+
+
+
+IN INDIAN MEXICO
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I
+
+PRIESTLY ARCHAEOLOGY
+
+(1895)
+
+
+While we stood in the Puebla station, waiting for the train to be made
+ready, we noticed a priest, who was buying his ticket at the office. On
+boarding the train, we saw nothing of him, as he had entered another
+car. Soon after we started, Herman made his usual trip of inspection
+through the train, and on his return told me that a learned priest was
+in the second-class coach, and that I ought to know him. As I paid no
+great attention to his suggestion, he soon deserted me for his priestly
+friend, but presently returned and renewed his advice. He told me this
+priest was no common man; that he was an ardent archaeologist; that he
+not only collected relics, but made full notes and diagrams of all his
+investigations; that he cared for live Indians also, and had made a
+great collection of dress, weapons, and tools, among Guatemalan tribes.
+When I even yet showed no intention of hurrying in to visit his new
+acquaintance, the boy said: "You must come in to see him, for I promised
+him you would, and you ought not to prove me to be a liar."
+
+This appeal proved effectual and I soon called upon the priestly
+archaeologist in the other car. He was an interesting man. By birth
+a German, he spoke excellent English; born of Protestant parents and
+reared in their faith, in early manhood be became a Catholic; renounced
+by his parents and left without support, he was befriended by Jesuits
+and determined to become a priest. Entering the ministry at twenty-nine
+years of age, he was sent as mission priest to foreign lands. He had
+lived in California, Utah, and Nevada; he had labored in Ecuador,
+Panama, and Guatemala. His interest in archaeology, kindled in the
+Southwest, continued in his later fields of labor. Waxing confidential
+he said: "I am a priest first, because I must live, but it does not
+interfere much with my archaeology." For years past the padre has lived
+in Guatemala, where he had charge of one of the largest parishes in that
+Republic, with some eighteen thousand full-blood indians in his charge.
+Like most Germans a linguist, the padre spoke German, French, Spanish,
+English, and Quiche, the most important indian speech of Guatemala. In
+his parish, he so arranged his work as to leave most of his time free
+for investigation. Twice a week he had baptisms, on Thursday and Sunday;
+these duties on Thursday took but a couple of hours, leaving the rest of
+the day free; Sundays, of course, were lost, but not completely, for the
+indians often then told him of new localities, where diggings might be
+undertaken. Always when digging into ancient mounds and graves, he had
+his horse near by ready for mounting, and his oil and other necessaries
+at hand, in case he should be summoned to the bedside of the dying. As
+the indians always knew where to look for him, no time was lost.
+
+Not only was the padre an archaeologist: he also gathered plants, birds,
+and insects. When he was leaving Germany, his nephew, the ten-year-old
+child of his sister, wished to accompany him. The parents refused their
+permission, but the uncle gave the boy some money, and they met each
+other in Frankfort and started on their journey. They have been together
+ever since. The padre depends completely on the younger man, whom he has
+fashioned to his mind. The plants, birdskins, and insects have supplied
+a steady income. The plants cost labor; insects were easier to get. All
+the indian boys in the parish were supplied with poison-bottles and set
+to work; a stock of prints of saints, beads, medals, and crucifixes was
+doled out to the little collectors, according to the value of their
+trophies. To allay the suspicions of his parishioners, the padre
+announced that he used the insects in making medicines. One Sunday a
+pious old indian woman brought to church a great beetle, which she had
+caught in her corn field four days before; during that time it had been
+tied by a string to her bed's leg; she received a medal. One day a man
+brought a bag containing some five hundred living insects; on opening
+it, they all escaped into the house, causing a lively time for their
+recapture.
+
+The nephew, Ernst, had made a collection of eleven hundred skins of
+Guatemalan birds. The padre and he have supplied specimens to many of
+the great museums of the world, but the choicest things have never been
+permitted to leave their hands.
+
+The padre is a great success at getting into trouble. He fled from
+Ecuador on account of political difficulties; his stay in Guatemala is
+the longest he has ever made in one place. During his eight years there
+he was successful; but he finally antagonized the government, was
+arrested, and thrown into jail. He succeeded in escaping, fled to
+Salvador, and from there made his way to the United States, where, for a
+little time, he worked, unhappily, at San Antonio, Texas. A short
+time since, the Archbishop of Oaxaca was in Texas, met the padre, and
+promised him an appointment in his diocese. The padre was now on his way
+to Oaxaca to see the prelate and receive his charge.
+
+He was full of hope for a happy future. When he learned that we were
+bound for the ruins of Mitla, he was fired with a desire to accompany
+us. At Oaxaca we separated, going to different hotels. My party was
+counting upon the company of Mr. Lucius Smith, as interpreter and
+companion, to the ruins, but we were behind our appointment and he had
+gone upon another expedition. This delighted the padre, who saw a new
+light upon the path of duty. The archbishop had received him cordially,
+and had given him a parish, although less than a day had passed since
+his arrival. When the padre knew of our disappointment, he hastened to
+his prelate, told him that an eminent American archaeologist, with a
+party of four, wished to visit Mitla, but had no interpreter; might he
+not accompany these worthy gentlemen, in some way serving mother church
+by doing so? So strong was his appeal, that he was deputed to say mass
+at Mitla Sunday, starting for his new parish of Chila on the Monday
+following.
+
+In the heavy, lumbering coach we left next morning, Saturday, for Mitla.
+The road, usually deep with dust, was in fair condition on account of
+recent rains. We arrived in the early afternoon and at once betook
+ourselves to the ruins. At the curacy, we presented the archbishop's
+letter to the indian cura, who turned it over once or twice, then asked
+the padre to read it, as his eyes were bad. While the reading proceeded,
+the old man listened with wonder, and then exclaimed, "What a learned
+man you are to read like that!" As we left, the padre expressed his
+feelings at the comeliness of the old priest's indian housekeeper, at
+the number of her children, at the suspicious wideness of his bed, and
+at his ignorance, in wearing a ring, for all the world just like a
+bishop's. But he soon forgot his pious irritation amid those marvelous
+ruins of past grandeur. In our early ramble he lost no opportunity to
+tell the indians that he would repeat mass on the morrow at seven, and
+that they should make a special effort to be present.
+
+[Illustration: WITH THE PADRE IN MITLA RUINS]
+
+[Illustration: THE PADRE, ERNST AND THE DOGS]
+
+But as we wandered from one to another of the ancient buildings, the
+thought of the morrow's duty lost its sweetness. He several times
+remarked that it was a great pity to lose any of our precious morning
+hours in saying mass, when there were ruins of such interest to be seen.
+These complaints gained in force and frequency as evening approached,
+until finally, as we sat at supper, he announced his decision to say
+mass before daybreak; he would call me at five o'clock, we would go
+directly to the church, we would be through service before six, would
+take our morning's coffee immediately after, and then would have quite a
+piece of the morning left for the ruins, before the coach should leave
+for Oaxaca.
+
+The plan was carried out in detail. At five we were called from our beds
+by the anxious padre. Herman and I were the only members of the party
+who were sufficiently devout to care to hear mass so early. With the
+padre, we stumbled in the darkness up to the church, where we roused the
+old woman who kept the key and the boy who rang the bell. The vestments
+were produced, the padre hastily robed, and the bell rung; the padre was
+evidently irritated at the absence of a congregation, as he showed by
+the rapid and careless way in which he repeated the first part of the
+service. When, however, at the _Credo_, he turned and saw that several
+poor indians had quietly crept in, a change came over him; his tone
+became fuller, his manner more dignified, and the service itself more
+impressive and decorous. Still, we were through long before six, and
+throwing off his vestments, which he left the boy to put away, the padre
+seized me by the arm, and we hastened down the hill to our morning's
+coffee. On the way we met a number of indians on their way to mass,
+whom the padre sternly rebuked for their laziness and want of devotion.
+Immediately after coffee, we were among the ruins.
+
+The padre had kindly arranged for my presentation to his Grace,
+Archbishop Gillow. Reaching Oaxaca late on Sunday afternoon, we called
+at the Palace. His Grace is a man of good presence, with a face of some
+strength and a courteous and gracious manner. He appeared to be about
+fifty-five years of age. After the padre had knelt and kissed the ring,
+the archbishop invited us to be seated, expressed an interest in our
+trip to Mitla, hoping that it had proved successful. He then spoke at
+some length in regard to his diocese. He emphasized its diversity in
+climate and productions, the wide range of its plant life, the great
+number of indian tribes which occupied it, the Babel of tongues within
+it, its vast mineral wealth. A Mexican by birth, the archbishop is, in
+part, of English blood and was educated, as a boy, in England. He speaks
+English easily and well. He showed us many curious and interesting
+things. Among these was a cylindrical, box-like figure of a rain-god,
+which was found by a priest upon his arrival at the Mixe Indian village
+of Mixistlan.[A] It was in the village church, at the high altar where
+it shared worship with the virgin and the crucifix. The archbishop
+himself, in his description of the incident, used the word _latria_.
+We were also shown a little cross, which stood upon the archbishop's
+writing-table, made in part from a fragment of that miraculous cross,
+which was found by Sir Francis Drake, upon the west coast. That
+"terrible fanatic" tried to destroy it, according to a well-known story.
+The cross was found standing when the Spaniards first arrived and is
+commonly attributed to St. Thomas. Sir Francis upon seeing this emblem
+of a hated faith, first gave orders to hew it down with axes; but axes
+were not sharp enough to harm it. Fires were then kindled to burn it,
+but had no effect. Ropes were attached to it and many men were set to
+drag it from the sand; but all their efforts could not move it. So it
+was left standing, and from that time became an object of especial
+veneration. Time, however, destroys all things. People were constantly
+breaking off bits of the sacred emblem for relics until so little was
+left of the trunk near the ground that it was deemed necessary to remove
+the cross. The diggers were surprised to find that it had never set more
+than a foot into the sand. This shows the greatness of the miracle.
+
+[A] Survivals of Paganism in Mexico. The Open Court. 1899.
+
+The padre had been assigned to the parish of Chila, a great indian town,
+near Tehuacan. Early the next morning he left for his new home.
+
+
+
+Not only did the padre, while in Oaxaca, urge us to call upon him in
+his new parish; after he was settled, he renewed his invitation. So we
+started for Chila. We had been in the _tierra caliente_, at Cordoba.
+From there we went by rail to Esperanza, from which uninteresting town
+we took a street-car line, forty-two miles long, to Tehuacan. This saved
+us time, distance, and money, and gave us a brand-new experience. There
+were three coaches on our train, first-, second-, and third-class. When
+buying tickets we struck acquaintance with a Syrian peddler. Three of
+these were travelling together; one of them spoke a little English,
+being proficient in profanity. He likes the United States, _per se_, and
+does not like Mexico; but he says the latter is the better for trade.
+"In the United States, you sell maybe fifteen, twenty-five, fifty cents
+a day; here ten, fifteen, twenty-five dollars." The trip lasted three
+hours and involved three changes of mules at stations, where we found
+all the excitement and bustle of a true railroad station.
+
+The country was, at first, rolling, with a sparse growth of yuccas, many
+of which were exceptionally large and fine. On the hills were occasional
+_haciendas_. This broken district was succeeded by a genuine desert,
+covered with fine dust, which rose, as we rode, in suffocating clouds.
+Here the valley began to close in upon us and its slopes were sprinkled
+with great cushion cactuses in strange and grotesque forms. After this
+desert gorge, we came out into a more open and more fertile district
+extending to Tehuacan. Even this, however, was dry and sunburned.
+
+Our party numbered four. We had written and telegraphed to the padre
+and expected that he, or Ernst, would meet us in Tehuacan. Neither was
+there. No one seemed to know just how far it was to Chila. Replies to
+our inquiries ranged from five to ten leagues.[B] Looking for some mode
+of conveyance, we refused a coach, offered at fifteen pesos, as the
+price seemed high. Hunting horses, we found four, which with a foot
+_mozo_ to bring them back, would cost twenty pesos. Telling the owner
+that we were not buying horses, but merely renting, we returned to the
+proprietor of the coach and stated that we would take it, though his
+price was high, and that he should send it without delay to the railroad
+station, where our companions were waiting. Upon this the owner of the
+coach pretended that he had not understood that there were four of us
+(though we had plainly so informed him); his price was for two. If we
+were four, he must have forty pesos. A fair price here might be eight
+pesos for the coach, or four for horses. So we told the coach owner
+that we would walk to Chila, rather than submit to such extortion.
+This amused him greatly and he made some facetious observations, which
+determined me to actually perform the trip on foot. Returning to the
+railroad station, where two of the party were waiting, I announced my
+intention of walking to Chila; as the way was long and the sand heavy
+and the padre's silence and non-appearance boded no great hospitality in
+welcome, I directed the rest to remain comfortably at Tehuacan until my
+return on the next day. Herman, however, refused the proposition; my
+scheme was dangerous; for me to go alone, at night, over a strange road,
+to Chila was foolhardy; he should accompany me to protect me. Consenting
+that he should accompany, we began to seek a _mozo_, as guide to
+Chila. With difficulty, and some loss of time, one was found who would
+undertake the business for two pesos. In vain a Jew peddler standing by
+and the station agent remonstrated with the man; two pesos was a full
+week's wages; it was ridiculous to demand such a price for guiding two
+foot travellers to Chila. He admitted that two pesos might be a week's
+wages; but he did not have to go to Chila and if we wanted him to do so
+we must pay his price. We capitulated, the station agent loaned us a
+revolver, we left our friends behind us and started on our journey. It
+was now dark. In a mysterious voice, our guide said we must go first to
+his house; there he secured his _serape_ and a heavy club. As we left
+his house he feared we must be hungry and indicated a bread-shop; we
+purchased and all three ate as we walked; a moment later he suggested
+that we would need _cigarros_ of course, and a stock of these were
+added, at our expense. Then, at last, we came down to business.
+
+[B] The Mexican league is 2.7 miles.
+
+Plainly our guide did not enjoy his task. Shortly after we started, the
+moon rose and, from its shining full on the light sand, it was almost
+as bright as day. We were in single file, our guide, Herman, and I. At
+sight of every bush or indistinct object, our guide clutched his club
+and crossed himself, as he mumbled a prayer. When we met anyone, we
+kept strictly to our side of the road, they to theirs, and, in passing,
+barely exchanged a word of greeting. The timidity and terror of our
+guide increased as we advanced, until I concluded to be prepared for any
+emergency and carried the revolver in my hand, instead of in my pocket.
+Mile after mile we trudged along through the heavy sand, into which we
+sunk so far that our low shoes repeatedly became filled and we had to
+stop to take them off and empty them. We passed through San Pablo, left
+the Hacienda of San Andres to one hand, and, finally, at 10:10 found
+ourselves in the great indian town of San Gabriel de Chila. It was much
+larger than we had anticipated and almost purely indian. We walked
+through a considerable portion of the town before we reached the plaza,
+the church, and the _curato_. Our journey had probably been one of
+fifteen miles. All was dark at the _curato_; an indian was sleeping in
+the corridor, but he was a traveller and gave us no information on being
+awakened. At our third or fourth pounding upon the door, Ernst appeared
+at the window; on learning who we were he hastened to let us in. He
+reported trouble in the camp; the padre had gone hastily to Oaxaca to
+see the archbishop; our telegram had not been received; our letter came
+that morning. We found that things were packed ready for removal. A good
+supper was soon ready, but while it was being prepared we took a cool
+bath, by moonlight, in the trough bath-tub out in the _patio_.
+
+In the morning we heard the full story. Formerly there was here a
+priest, who devoted his whole life to this parish, growing old in its
+service; in his old age he was pensioned, with sixty pesos monthly from
+the parish receipts. The priest who succeeded him, coming something
+over three years ago, was a much younger man. During his three years of
+service, he was continually grumbling; the work was hard, his health was
+bad at Chila, the heat was intolerable; he wished another parish. The
+archbishop finally took him at his word; without warning he transferred
+him to another parish, and sent our friend, the archaeologist here, in
+his place. This did not suit the man relieved; Chila itself was much to
+his liking; what he really wanted was to be relieved from the support
+of his superannuated predecessor. No sooner was he transferred than he
+began to look with longing on his former charge and to make a vigorous
+effort to regain it. Accusations were hurried to Oaxaca; the new priest
+was pursuing agriculture as a means of profit; he had not paid the dues
+to the aged priest; he had himself admitted to parishioners that his
+object in coming to Chila was more to study antiquities and natural
+history than to preach the gospel. It is claimed that, immediately on
+receiving this communication, the archbishop sent a peremptory letter to
+the padre demanding an explanation; this letter, Ernst said, never was
+delivered, hence no explanation was sent. The prelate acted promptly;
+orders were sent to our friend to give up the parish to the former
+priest, who appeared on the scene to receive his charge. Then, and then
+only, it is said the delayed letter came to light. The padre had left,
+at once, for Oaxaca and his archbishop. From there he sent messages
+by telegraph: "Pack up, and come to Tehuacan;" "Wait until you hear
+further." A third came the morning we were there: "Pack up; meet me at
+Tehuacan, ready to go to a new parish."
+
+It was really sad to look about the new home, to which he had come with
+such buoyant hopes and of which he had been so soon dispossessed. When
+he arrived, the place was neglected and filthy; two whole days were
+necessary to clean it. It had contained practically no furniture; he
+had made it look like a place in which to live. He had improved and
+beautified its surroundings. He had planted a little corn and set out
+some young banana trees; he had gathered many species of cactus from the
+neighboring hills and had built up a fine bed of the strange plants
+in his _patio_. Passionately fond of pets, he had two magnificent
+greyhounds and a pug--all brought from Guatemala--a black collie, doves,
+hens and turkeys on the place. And now, he was again without a home and
+his time, money, and labor were lost.
+
+Ernst accompanied us to Tehuacan. We rented three horses and a man on
+foot went with us to bring them back to the village. And for the whole
+we paid the regular price of eighty-seven centavos--twenty-five each for
+the animals, and twelve centavos for the man--something less than the
+twenty pesos demanded the day before at Tehuacan.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II
+
+WE START FOR GUATEMALA
+
+(1896)
+
+
+The evening we were at Mitla, Se�or Quiero came hurrying to our room and
+urged us to step out to the corridor before the house to see some
+Mixes. It was our first glimpse of representatives of this little known
+mountain people. Some thirty of them, men and women, loaded with fruit,
+coffee, and charcoal, were on their way to the great fair and market,
+at Tlacolula. They had now stopped for the night and had piled their
+burdens against the wall. Wrapping themselves in their tattered and
+dirty blankets, they laid themselves down on the stone floor, so close
+together that they reminded me of sardines in a box. With a blazing
+splinter of fat pine for torch, we made our inspection. Their broad dark
+faces, wide flat noses, thick lips and projecting jaws, their coarse
+clothing, their filthiness, their harsh and guttural speech, profoundly
+impressed me and I resolved to penetrate into their country and see them
+in their homes, at the first opportunity.
+
+Our friend the padre never tired of telling how much more interesting
+Guatemala was than Mexico; he could not understand why any man of sense
+should waste his time in Mexico, a land so large that a dozen students
+could not begin to solve its problems, while Guatemala, full of
+interesting ruins and crowded with attractive Indians, was of such size
+that one man's lifetime could count for something. His tales of indian
+towns, life, dress, customs, kindled enthusiasm; but it was only after
+thinking over the Mixes, that I decided to make a journey to Guatemala.
+The padre, himself, could not accompany me, being a political refugee,
+but he had told me Ernst should go with me. After three months'
+consideration my plan was made. We would start from Oaxaca overland via
+the Mixes country; we would everywhere keep in the mountains; in Chiapas
+we would completely avoid the usual highway, hot and dusty, near the
+coast; in Guatemala itself, we would go by Nenton, Huehuetenango and
+Nibaj. This did not suit the padre: he had had in mind a journey all
+rail and steamer; and friends, long resident in Mexico, shook their
+heads and spoke of fatigues and dangers. But I was adamant; the Mixes
+drew me; we would go overland, on horse, or not at all.
+
+When the Padre left Chila, he took a letter of recommendation from the
+Archbishop of Oaxaca to the Bishop of Vera Cruz at Jalapa. By him,
+the padre was located at Medellin, a few miles from Vera Cruz itself.
+Thither I journeyed to join Ernst and make the final preparations for
+the journey. Ernst met me at the station at 6:30 in the evening and we
+stayed the night in the hot, mosquito-tortured, plague-stricken city.
+Leaving at eight o'clock in the morning we were at Medellin in an hour.
+Our journey was through low, swampy ground on which the chief growth was
+of palm. The padre, whom we had not seen since we parted at Oaxaca, met
+us at the station and took us at once to his house. The town is small,
+the population a miserable mixture of black, white, and indian elements.
+Few of the couples living there have been legally married. The parish is
+one of the worst in the whole diocese. The bishop warned the padre that
+it was an undesirable field, but it was the only one then unoccupied.
+But the padre was working wonders and the church was then undergoing
+repairs and decorations. The actual _curato_ was long ago seized by
+the government and is now used as a schoolhouse. The priest lived in a
+rented house close by the river bank. The house is a double one and the
+priest occupied but half of it; those in the other half were hostile to
+him and he was anxious to rent the whole place. His neighbors, however,
+did not care to leave and threatened vengeance; they were behind a mass
+of accusations filed against him with the bishop. His friends rallied to
+his support, sent in a strong endorsement, and he remained. The padre
+had been industrious while here. Behind his house is the little river,
+with a bath-house built over it; crossing in a dugout canoe we found his
+garden flourishing, filled with fresh vegetables. The family of pets had
+grown; Baldur, Freia, Votan, Doxil--the dogs--were here as at Chila, but
+he also had fantail and capuchin pigeons, hens and chicks, ducks
+and geese, canary birds, and native birds in cages. Here also were
+archaeological relics, plants, beetles and birds for gathering. And here
+too, for the first time, I had the opportunity of examining his great
+collection of Ecuadorean humming-birds and a magnificent lot of
+Guatemalan quetzal skins, among them probably the finest ever collected.
+
+[Illustration: THE PADRE'S HOUSE; MEDELLIN]
+
+[Illustration: THE CHURCH; MEDELLIN]
+
+We left Medellin on January 8th; went by rail to Puebla, then to Oaxaca.
+Here we found our friend Doctor Hyde, of Silao, who was nursing Lucius
+Smith, in what proved to be a final illness. He aided us in finding
+animals and completing preparations for our journey. We secured a large
+bay horse for myself, a roan for Ernst, a little mule for baggage. For
+my own part, I dislike mules; Ernst and the doctor, however, were loud
+in their praise of such a beast; both asserted that a good mule should
+sell for double its cost on our arrival at Guatemala City. When,
+finally, after inspecting a variety of animals we found one lively,
+young one, the doctor was delighted. Taking me to one side, he informed
+me that such an opportunity was unlikely to occur again. I yielded and
+the little mule was ours. We named the three animals Mixe, Zapotec, and
+Chontal, from three tribes through whose country we expected to pass.
+
+The doctor's helpfulness was not confined to advice regarding mules. He
+insisted upon our buying various supplies, such as boxes of sardines,
+sago, coffee, etc., the utility of which appeared neither at the time
+nor later. Also at his suggestion a quart of whiskey was purchased and
+carefully divided into two flasks, one for each saddlebag. Most useful
+of all the doctor's suggestions, and one for which we had reason many
+times to thank him, was the securing from the governor of a letter to
+all local authorities in the state, directing them to supply us with the
+necessities of life, at just prices.
+
+We had hoped to start from Oaxaca in the early morning, but it was well
+on in the afternoon before all arrangements were completed. The doctor
+and his Mexican friend rode with us to Tule to see us well started. It
+was out over the old road to Mitla. The afternoon was hot, dust was
+deep, and a heavy wind blew it up into our faces in clouds. The sun was
+already setting when we rode into Santa Maria Tule, and we went at once
+to see the famous cypress tree, which no one in the party, save myself,
+had seen. It seems now to be a single tree, but was perhaps, originally,
+three; at present it displays a single, vast trunk, buttressed with
+heavy irregular projecting columns. So irregular is this enormous mass
+that no two persons taking its girth exactly agree. We measured it four
+feet above the ground and made the circumference one hundred and sixty
+feet. The mass of delicate green foliage above was compact, vigorous,
+and beautiful. Many years ago Humboldt cut a rectangular piece of bark
+from the old trunk and on the smooth surface thus exposed carved an
+inscription with his name.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Bark has since grown over the sides and corners of this tablet, but much
+of the inscription may still be read. Since Humboldt's visit many lesser
+men have gashed the old tree to leave their mark.
+
+As it was now darkening we hurried to the _meson_ of the village. The
+old lady in charge received us with suspicion; she could not feed us and
+refused to receive us into the house for the night; she would permit
+us to sleep outside, in the corridor--which we might have done without
+asking permission. At this moment, the doctor's friend remembered that
+he knew a man here and went out to reconnoitre; he soon returned and led
+us to his friend's house, where we were well received. A supper of eggs,
+_tortillas_, and chocolate was soon served. Before we had finished the
+moon had risen and by its light the doctor and his friend started
+on their return to town. We slept on beds, made of boards laid upon
+sawhorses, in a grain store-room, where rats were running around all
+night long.
+
+The next day, we were again at Mitla. It was a festival day, that of the
+Conversion of St. Paul the Apostle. In the evening there were rockets,
+the band played, and a company of drummers and _chirimiya_ blowers went
+through the town. Se�or Quiero had fires of blazing pine knots at the
+door. When the procession passed we noted its elements. In front was the
+band of ten boys; men with curious standards mounted on poles followed.
+The first of these standards was a figure, in strips of white and pink
+tissue paper, of a long-legged, long-necked, long-billed bird, perhaps a
+heron; next stars of colored paper, with lights inside; then were large
+globes, also illuminated, three of white paper and three in the national
+colors--red, white, and green. Grandest of all, however, was a globular
+banner of cloth on which was painted a startling picture of the saint's
+conversion. All of these were carried high in the air and kept rotating.
+Behind the standard bearers came a drummer and the player on the shrill
+pipe or _pito--chirimiya_. The procession stopped at Se�or Quiero's
+_tienda_, and the old man opened both his heart and his bottles; spirits
+flowed freely to all who could crowd into the little shop and bottles
+and packs of _cigarros_ were sent out to the standard-bearers. As a
+result we were given a vigorous explosion of rockets, and several pieces
+by the band, the drummer, and the _pitero_.
+
+Beyond Mitla the valley narrows and the road rises onto a gently sloping
+terrace; when it strikes the mountains it soon becomes a bridle-path
+zigzagging up the cliffside. As we mounted by it, the valley behind
+expanded magnificently under our view. We passed through a belt of
+little oak trees, the foliage of which was purple-red, like the autumnal
+coloring of our own forests. Higher up we reached the pine timber. As
+soon as we reached the summit, the lovely valley view was lost and we
+plunged downward, even more abruptly than we had mounted, along the side
+of a rapidly deepening gorge. At the very mouth of this, on a pretty
+terrace, we came abruptly on the little town of San Lorenzo with
+palm-thatched huts of brush or cane and well grown hedges of _organo_
+cactus. Here we ate _tortillas_ and fried-eggs with chili. Immediately
+on setting out from here we rode over hills, the rock of which was
+deeply stained with rust and streaked with veins of quartz, up to a
+crest of limestone covered with a crust of stalagmite.
+
+[Illustration: THE START FROM OAXACA]
+
+[Illustration: THE CELEBRATION AT MITLA]
+
+The road up to this summit was not good, but that down the other side
+was _bad_. The irregular, great blocks of limestone, covered with the
+smooth, dry, slippery coating, caused constant stumbling to our poor
+animals. From this valley we rose onto a yet grander range. Here we had
+our first Mixe experience. At the very summit, where the road became
+for a little time level, before plunging down into the profound valley
+beyond, we met two Indians, plainly Mixes. Both were bareheaded, and
+both wore the usual dirty garments--a cotton shirt over a pair of cotton
+trousers, the legs of which were rolled up to the knees or higher. The
+younger of the men bore a double load, as he had relieved his companion.
+The old man's face was scratched and torn, his hands were smeared with
+blood and blood stained his shirt. We cried an "_adios_" and the old man
+kissed my hand, while the younger, pointing to his friend said "_Sangre,
+Se�or, sangre_" (Blood, sir, blood.) Vigorously they told the story of
+the old man's misfortune, but in incomprehensible Spanish. While they
+spoke three others like them, each bent under his burden came up onto
+the ridge. These kissed my hand and then, excitedly pointing to the old
+man, all talking at once, tried to tell his story. Having expressed our
+sympathy, we left the five looking after us, the old man, with his torn
+and bleeding face, being well in the foreground.
+
+Down in the valley, across a little stream, we struck into a pleasant
+meadow road leading to the Hacienda of San Bartolo. Suddenly, before us,
+in the road, we saw a man lying. We thought he was dead. He was a young
+man, an indian in the usual dress, apparently a Zapotec. His face was
+bloody and his shirt was soaked in front with blood, which had trickled
+down upon the ground forming a pool in which he lay. We could see no
+deep wound, but, as he lay upon his side, there may have been such. Near
+him in the road there lay a knife, the blade covered with blood. The man
+lay perfectly still, but we fancied we could see a slight movement of
+the chest. In Mexico, it is best not to investigate too closely, because
+the last to touch a murdered man may be held responsible for his death.
+So we hurried on toward the _hacienda_ but, before reaching it, met two
+girls about nineteen years of age and a little lad all Zapotecs. We told
+them what we had seen and bade them notify the authorities. One of
+the girls cried, "_Si, Se�or, es mi hermano_" ("Yes, sir, it is my
+brother"), and they ran down the road. As for us, we hurried onward,
+without stopping at the _hacienda_, in order not to be delayed or held
+as witnesses.
+
+There is no love between the Zapotecs and Mixes. We never learned
+the actual story, but imagined it somewhat as follows. The old Mixe,
+carrying his burden, had probably encountered the young Zapotec and
+had words with him. Probably there had been blows, and the old man was
+having the worst of it when his companions came along and turned the
+tide of battle.
+
+The road, after passing the _hacienda_, ascended almost constantly for
+many miles. We passed clumps of yuccas. As we mounted we faced a strong
+and cutting wind, and were glad when any turn in the road gave us a
+moment's relief. The final ascent was sharp and difficult, up a hill of
+red or purple slate, which splintered into bits that were both slippery
+and sharp to the feet of our poor animals. Just as the sun was
+setting and dusk fell, we reached the miserable pueblo of Santa Maria
+Albarradas. It was situated on a terrace or shelf, and its little houses
+were made of red or purple adobe bricks, and thatched with grass. Little
+garden patches and groups of cultivated trees surrounded the houses. The
+church was little larger than the dwellings, and was constructed of the
+same clay, thatched with the same grass. Near it was the town-house. We
+summoned the _presidente_, and while we waited for him, the men, women,
+and children of the town thronged around us and watched our every
+movement, commenting the while on our actions and words. When the
+_presidente_ came, we made known our wants and soon had supper for
+ourselves, food for our animals, a shelter for the night, and a _mozo_
+as guide for the morrow. The town-house was put at our disposition; it
+was sadly in need of repairs, and consisted of two rooms, one larger
+than the other. In the larger room there was a long and heavy table, a
+bench or two, and some wooden chairs. We slept upon the ground, and
+long before we rolled ourselves up in our blankets the wind was blowing
+squarely from the north. The sky was half covered with a heavy black
+cloud; as the night advanced, it became colder and colder, the wind
+cutting like a knife, and while we shivered in our blankets, it seemed
+as if we had been born to freeze there in the tropics.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III
+
+THE LAND OF THE MIXES
+
+(1896)
+
+
+Santa Maria was the last Zapotec town; we were on the border of the
+country of the Mixes. Starting at seven next morning, we followed a
+dizzy trail up the mountain side to the summit. Beyond that the road
+went down and up many a slope. A norther was on; cold wind swept over
+the crest, penetrating and piercing; cloud masses hung upon the higher
+summits; and now and again sheets of fine, thin mist were swept down
+upon us by the wind; this mist was too thin to darken the air, but on
+the surface of the driving sheets rainbows floated. The ridge, which for
+a time we followed, was covered with a thicket of purple-leaved oaks,
+which were completely overgrown with bromelias and other air-plants.
+From here, we passed into a mountain country that beggars description.
+I know and love the Carolina mountains--their graceful forms, their
+sparkling streams and springs, the lovely sky stretched above them; but
+the millionaires are welcome to their "land of the sky"; we have our
+land of the Mixes, and to it they will never come. The mountains here
+are like those of Carolina, but far grander and bolder; here the sky is
+more amply extended. There, the slopes are clad with rhododendrons and
+azaleas, with the flowering shrub, with strawberries gleaming amid
+grass; here we have rhododendrons also, in clusters that scent the air
+with the odor of cloves, and display sheets of pink and purple bloom;
+here we have magnificent tree-ferns, with trunks that rise twenty feet
+into the air and unroll from their summits fronds ten feet in length;
+fifty kinds of delicate terrestrial ferns display themselves in a single
+morning ride; here are palms with graceful foliage; here are orchids
+stretching forth sprays--three or four feet long--toward the hand for
+plucking; here are pine-trees covering slopes with fragrant fallen
+needles. A striking feature is the different flora on the different
+slopes of a single ridge. Here, too, are bubbling springs, purling
+brooks, dashing cascades, the equals of any in the world. And hither the
+tourist, with his destroying touch, will never come.
+
+We had thought to find our wild Mixes living in miserable huts among the
+rocks, dressed in scanty native garb, leading half wild lives. We found
+good clearings on the hillside; fair fields of maize and peas, gourds
+and calabashes; cattle grazed in the meadows; fowls and turkeys were
+kept; the homes were log-houses, substantially built, in good condition,
+in neat enclosures; men and women, the latter in European dress, were
+busied with the duties of their little farms. Clearing after clearing
+in the forest told the same story of industry, thrift, and moderate
+comfort.
+
+After more than five hours of hard travel we reached the Mixe town of
+Ayutla, and rode at once to the _curato_. The priest was not at home. It
+was market-day, and people were in town from all the country round. The
+men, surprised at sight of strangers, crowded about us; some gazed at us
+with angry glances, others eyed us with dark suspicion, some examined us
+with curious and even friendly interest. Many of them spoke little or no
+Spanish. Thronging about us they felt our clothing, touched our skins,
+saddles, baggage, and exhibited childish curiosity. The women at the
+_curato_ spoke Spanish, of course; we told them we should stay there
+for a day or two, and sent out for the _presidente_. On his coming, we
+explained to him our business and asked leave to occupy the _curato_ in
+the absence of the priest.
+
+Ayutla is situated on a high terrace, before which opens a lovely valley
+and behind which rises a fine mountain slope. The village church, while
+large, is roofless; the town-house lies below the village, and by it
+are two jails for men and women. The houses of the village are small,
+rectangular structures of a red-brown-ochre adobe brick; the roofs slope
+from in front backward, and are covered with red tiles they project in
+front so as to cover a little space before the house.
+
+By evening most of the indians in the town were drunk. At sunset a
+miserable procession started from the church, passed through the
+village, and then returned to the church; composed mostly of women, it
+was preceded by a band of music and the men who carried the _santito_.
+Later, we heard most disconsolate strains, and, on examination, found
+four musicians playing in front of the old church; three of them had
+curious, extremely long, old-fashioned horns of brass, while the fourth
+had a drum or _tambour_. The _tambour_ was continuously played, while
+the other instruments were alternated in the most curious fashion. The
+music was strange and weird, unlike any that we had ever heard before.
+However, we became thoroughly familiar with it before we had traversed
+the whole Mixe country, as we heard it twice daily, at sunrise and after
+sunset. It was the music of the Candelaria, played during the nine days
+preceding February 2d. As we sat listening to the music the _presidente_
+of the town appeared. His Spanish, at no time adequate, was now at its
+worst, as he was sadly intoxicated. We tried to carry on a conversation
+with him, but soon seeing that naught but disaster could be expected, if
+we continued, we discreetly withdrew to our room.
+
+[Illustration: A STREET IN SAN LORENZO]
+
+[Illustration: AYUTLA]
+
+There we found the _fiscal_, and I have rarely seen so drunk an
+official. When drunk, he is violent and abusive, and it was plain that
+the women at the _curato_ were afraid of him. More than one hundred and
+fifty years ago Padre Quintana, who was the mission priest at Juquila,
+translated the _Doctrina_ into Mixe and wrote a _Gramatica_ of the
+language, both of which were then printed. We wished to secure copies of
+these old and rare books, and asked the _fiscal_ if there were any here.
+He promptly replied that he had one at his house, and invited us to go
+there with him to see it. We at once started, and on our way had to pass
+the drunken _presidente_ and the musicians. As we drew near them the
+_presidente_, with drunken dignity, rose and said: "Where are you going,
+Se�ores?" The _fiscal_ was for going directly onward without giving
+answer; we hesitated and began a reply. Our delay was fatal; staggering
+up to us, his Honor said: "I shall not permit you to go; this man is
+drunk; he will be dangerous. I am responsible for your safety." The
+_fiscal_, standing at a little distance, cried: "Se�ores! shall we go?"
+We started toward him; the _presidente_ interfered: "No, Se�ores,
+you shall not go to-night; the man is drunk; return to your house."
+"_V�monos_," (Let us go) hiccoughed the _fiscal. "Ma�ana_," (to-morrow)
+hiccoughed the _presidente_. The _fiscal_ stormed; the _presidente_
+threatened him with jail, ordered him home, and with a body-guard
+for our protection led us to our room. Scarcely able to totter, the
+_presidente_ assured us that drunken men were dangerous and ought not
+to be trusted; at the same time he produced his bottle and offered us
+a drop to warm us. It required tact and time to get rid of him and
+his corps of protectors. Early the next morning both of these worthy
+officials, _presidente_ and _fiscal_, still drunk, called upon us with
+the book--a _Doctrina_ of 1729. With the _presidente_ were two stalwart
+fellows, intended, as he whispered to us audibly, to handle the
+_fiscal_ in case he became dangerous. The audience ended, and the party
+dismissed, the _presidente_ stood in the road until the _fiscal_ had
+started for home, when he left for the town-house. The _fiscal's_
+home-going, however, was mere pretense. No sooner was the _presidente_
+gone than he came staggering into the _patio_ of the _curato_. The women
+ran into our room, in terror: "The _fiscal_ comes; bar the door; do
+not let him in." A moment later a feeble rap at the door, a call and
+a mournful request for admission; the barricaded door gave no
+encouragement. At intervals through the morning there came the flying
+maids: "He comes! don't let him in." Again and again the barricade;
+again and again, the vain appeal for entrance. We left Ayutla at noon.
+We had scarcely well started when we heard some one calling behind us.
+Turning, we saw the _fiscal_, running unsteadily toward us. We waited;
+he came up out of breath. "_Ya se va_?" (Now you are leaving?) "_Si,
+se�or_," (Yes, sir.) With a look of despair he removed his hat, and
+fumbling in its depths produced two cigarettes; presenting one to each
+of us, he waved his hand as we rode away and cried: "_Adios! se�ores_."
+
+For some distance our road led up a ca�on. Reaching its head, we gained
+the pass at two o'clock. A wonderful sight here presented itself. Above
+us was a brilliant blue sky--cloudless; every detail of the rock crest
+upon which we stood was clear. Forested to its summit, the ridge formed
+the half of a magnificent amphitheatre, whose slopes had been vertically
+furrowed at a hundred points by torrents; to the left a spur projected,
+the crest of which sloped gently downward, forming an enclosing wall
+upon that side. Before us, beyond the valley, was a boundary line of
+mountain masses, sharply outlined against the sky. Lower ridges, nearer
+to us, paralleled this distant rampart. The only apparent outlet from
+this valley was around the spur to our left. Looking down upon this
+magnificent valley, we saw it occupied by a sea of clouds, the level
+surface of which looked like a lake of water flecked here and there with
+whitecaps. The higher hills within the valley rose like islands from the
+water; to the left a mighty river seemed to flow around the spur, out
+into a boundless sea of cloud beyond. The level surface of this lake,
+river, and sea of clouds was hundreds of feet below us.
+
+From this summit, our trail plunged downward into this sea of mists.
+When we reached its upper surface, which was plainly defined, little
+wisps of mist or cloud were streaming up along the furrowed channels of
+the mountain walls. As we entered the lake of cloud the sunlight became
+fainter, uprushes of cold mists struck us, gloom settled, denser and
+denser grew the fog, drops of condensed vapor dripped from the trees
+under which we passed. At the bottom of the valley, we could scarcely
+see a dozen yards in any direction. We were passing along meadows, like
+those of New England, with brakes, sunflowers, and huckleberries; here
+and there were little fields of wheat or peas. The fog was too dense for
+us to know whether we lost fine scenery. We saw nothing of the little
+villages through which we passed. On and on we plunged along the trail,
+until it began an ascent of a ridge, almost like a knife-edge, with
+steep slopes on both sides. When we had reached the summit of this
+ridge, we found the trail level, through a growth of oak trees which
+were loaded with bromelias and orchids. Though still dim, the light had
+brightened as we rose to higher levels. Graceful ferns and sprays of
+terrestrial orchids overhung our trail at every cutting or slope. One
+spray, which I plucked as I rode under it, was more than a yard in
+length, and its curiously colored brown and yellow flowers were
+strangely like insects in form. At one level summit of our ridge, we
+came upon a little whitewashed building of adobe, dome-topped, with no
+windows and but one little door. Pushing this open, I entered through
+a doorway so narrow that I had to remove my hat, and so low that I was
+forced to bend, and found myself in a little shrine with a cross and
+pictures of two or three saints, before which were plain vases filled
+with fresh flowers, the offerings of travelers. We added our spray of
+orchids before we resumed our journey.
+
+For three hours, during which no distant view had delighted our eyes, we
+had traveled in the mists; we had almost forgotten that the sun could
+shine. At the end of a long, narrow ridge, where it joined the greater
+mountain mass, we found a rest-house. Here the trail turned abruptly
+onto the larger ridge, mounted sharply through a dugway, and then to our
+complete surprise emerged into the fair sunlight. The clear, blue sky
+was over us, and directly below us, at our horses' feet, was the flat
+top of the sea of clouds. A moment more and we rose to a point of view
+from which the grandest view of a lifetime burst upon our vision.
+Opposite, the evening sun was nearing the horizon, before and below us
+lay the valley; we were upon the very edge of a great mountain slope. To
+our right lay the cloud mass, which was all in movement, precipitating
+itself down the slope into the profound valley. It was a river of
+vapors, more than two miles, perhaps, in width, plunging, perhaps, two
+thousand feet into the abyss. Niagara, which I have often seen, is a
+pigmy cataract in comparison. The cloud mass tossed and heaved, whirled
+and poured in one enormous sheet over the precipice, breaking into spray
+as it struck against projecting rock masses. Every movement of whirling
+and plunging water was there; the rapid above the fall, the plunge, the
+whirlpool, the wild rush of whirlpool rapids, all were there, but all
+silent, fearfully and impressively silent. We could have stood there
+gazing for hours, but night was coming and a stretch of unknown road
+still lay before us. At the other end of the valley, in the dusk of
+early evening, we saw a second cataract pouring in. From both ends the
+cloud rivers were rushing in to fill the valley, along the edge of which
+we crept. And presently we plunged down again into the mists; night
+fell; our trail was barely visible, and we had to trust to our horses to
+find it; the air was cold and penetrating. Long after dark, we rode into
+Juquila.
+
+[Illustration: CLOUD CATARACT; NEAR JUQUILA]
+
+[Illustration: DANCERS IN THE DANZA DE LA CONQUISTA; JUQUILA]
+
+The _cura_ had gone to bed; the _meson_ had no room for us and no food
+for our horses; our case seemed desperate. We heard, however, noisy
+laughter and the loud voices of men drinking. So I begged Ernst to
+seek the _presidente_ and tell him our needs while I looked after the
+animals. The official was at the _tienda_, drinking with his friends.
+Ernst made known our wishes, producing our letter from the governor. At
+this, the _presidente_ became furious: "Who is this with orders from the
+governor? Let me kill him," and with that he drew his _machete_ and
+made at Ernst. Some of his less-intoxicated friends restrained him, and
+Ernst, concluding that the moment was not propitious, returned to me.
+After other fruitless efforts to get food for ourselves and animals we
+resigned ourselves to our fate, and lay down upon the stone floor of
+the corridor outside the _meson_, with a crowd of sleeping indians as
+companions.
+
+Very early in the morning, all the town officials, except the
+_presidente_, came to apologize for the occurrence of the night. They
+announced that the _presidente_, realizing what he had done, had taken
+to the mountains, and asked what they could do for us. We ordered fodder
+for our hungry beasts, food for ourselves, and a place of shelter. The
+town-house was offered to us, and we were moved into those quarters with
+due ceremony.
+
+Although we stayed several days at Juquila, the _presidente_ did not
+return, during our presence, to resume his duties of office. We were,
+however, well treated. The _cura_ aided us with advice, information, and
+helpers. While we were in the village the _danza de la Conquista_ took
+place. It is a popular play, with much dancing and music, and little
+action or dialogue, which celebrates the Conquest of Mexico by Cortez.
+It was rendered in the shade of a great tree near the church. In the
+first act, nine men and two girls took part; in the second act, there
+were many others. The nine men and two girls represented Indians; they
+wore crowns with plumes of snow-white down; in their hands they carried
+a rattle, made from the fruit of a tree and a wand of white down, with
+which they beat time. One man, representing Montezuma, had a crown of
+brilliantly colored plumes. The other eight men were warriors; the two
+girls were "_Malinches_." The first act consisted of a series of dances,
+including a very pretty maypole dance. The play lasted about
+three hours, and represented the life of the indians before the
+Conquest--Montezuma in his court, with the amusements celebrated for his
+entertainment. Hearing of the arrival of the Spaniards, he is filled
+with sad forebodings, which the amusements fail to dispel. In the second
+act, Hernando Cortez appears, with soldiers. While the costumes of the
+indians were gay, and more or less attractive, those of these European
+warriors were ludicrously mongrel and unbecoming. The new-comers
+demanded that Montezuma acknowledge the authority of the King of Spain
+and the cross of Christ. Conversations, demands, replies, tableaus,
+sword-dances, etc., ensued. Finally, Montezuma and his warriors yielded,
+and kissed the crucifix.
+
+[Illustration: ROAD APPROACHING QUEZALTEPEC]
+
+While this drama was being enacted under the shade-tree, another
+amusement, in connection with the _fiesta of_ _San Marcos_, was in
+progress in front of the church. The musicians with the long horns made
+doleful music; a dozen gayly-costumed dancers took part. They wore dark
+trousers slitted up the sides; bright kerchiefs, with the point hanging
+down in front, were tied about the waists; crowns of plumes were on
+the heads; red vests and kerchiefs, crossed at the neck, completed the
+costume. One player, who seemed to be a leader, carried a tri-colored
+flag; another represented a man on horseback, by creeping into a frame
+of sticks, covered with cloth, in the shape of a horse. They danced in
+the full sunlight for hours; their movements were varied and pretty,
+quite different, too, from the figures in the _danza de la Conquista_.
+Two outside characters played the clown. One of these was a little lad
+dressed in a garment representing a tiger-skin, while over his face he
+wore a heavy, old wooden mask, imitating an animal's head. The other
+was older, dressed in a leather suit, with a wooden mask like a
+vacant-looking human face. These two were very popular, and indulged
+in many acts that bordered on the obscene. We got no satisfactory
+explanation of this whole performance. The _cura_ said that it
+represented the conflict between Christ and the Jews; this we greatly
+doubted.
+
+Mixe roads avoid no mountains, and usually go straight up one slope and
+down the other. The Mixe villages are set upon the very crests, or upon
+little terraces a few hundred feet below the crest, or the summit of
+some spur that juts out from the great mountain mass, of a long and
+narrow ridge. The road from Juquila, by Ocotopec to Quezaltepec was
+beautiful and typical. The ascent, just before Quezaltepec, was
+magnificent. We had a letter of introduction from the _cura_ at Juquila
+to the schoolteacher at Quezaltepec, and therefore rode directly to the
+school. The four boys who were in attendance were promptly dismissed and
+the _maestro_ was at our disposition. He was a _mestizo_, and possessed
+the art of lying in a fine degree, like so many of his kind. This man
+set us an excellent supper, having asked us beforehand what we would
+like. We replied that we would be glad to have fresh meat, if there was
+any to be had. He replied, "There is always fresh meat here; someone
+kills every day." It really appeared in the dinner, but, as we ate it,
+our host remarked--"Gentlemen, it is indeed lucky that you arrived here
+just now, because to-night we have fresh meat, and like enough a month
+will pass before anyone in town kills again." Our teacher friend fully
+appreciated his opportunity, and we paid a large price for our meal,
+with its fresh meat, our beds on the school benches, and the fodder
+supplied our horses. The next day being Saturday, the _maestro_ offered
+to accompany us to Ixcuintepec, where his half-brother, the local
+teacher, would welcome our coming and arrange for our entertainment.
+
+Passing Camotlan, we entered a magnificent gorge, along one side of
+which we climbed, passing in front of lovely cascades and having
+magnificent outlooks. While we were on this trail, we encountered the
+_maestro_ from Ixcuintepec, who was on his way to Quezaltepec to spend
+his holiday. A whispered word with his half-brother, our companion,
+quickly changed his plan, and he accompanied us. Upon this trail we
+found our first swinging foot-bridges made of _lianas_, or vines,
+hanging from trees. These are, of course, only suitable for
+foot-travellers, but are a great convenience, where streams are likely
+to be swollen. Two or three long and slender vines, laid side by side
+and lashed together, form the footway, which is swung from one tree to
+another; other _lianas_ are stretched across as side rails, smaller
+vines being twined in between and around them to hold them in place;
+long vines, pendant from the high branches of the supporting trees, are
+fastened to the upper rails to steady and anchor these frail bridges,
+which swing and yield with every weight.
+
+[Illustration: TREE FERN IN TROPICAL FOREST; QUEZALTEPEC]
+
+[Illustration: CASCADE, NEAR QUEZALTEPEC]
+
+Ixcuintepec is upon one of the most abrupt ridges of this whole
+district. We went first to the schoolhouse, where our animals were to
+be guarded in a little open space before it; then we walked over to
+the _curato_ which was being prepared for us. We had ordered _zacate_
+(fodder) for our animals and had divided it suitably between them. We
+ate our own meal, took a turn around the town, and were about to go to
+our quarters for the night, when Ernst noticed that the fodder, for
+which we had paid an outrageous price, had completely disappeared from
+before the two horses, although the pile before the mule had diminished
+but little. No doubt the two school teachers could have explained this
+mysterious disappearance; we could not, however, tax them with theft,
+but we made so much fuss over the matter that the officials brought a
+new supply. While I went to our room to write up my notes, Ernst sat in
+the gathering darkness watching the animals, as they ate, to prevent
+further robbery. I was busily writing, listening now and then to the
+fierce gusts of a gale that was blowing without, when the door burst
+open and Ernst, greatly excited, called me to follow, and we hastened
+to the place where our animals were tied. There we found that the great
+tree under which Chontal, the little mule, had been feeding, had been
+torn by the tempest and half of it had fallen upon the animal, bearing
+it to the ground. The crash had come without a moment's warning.
+Fortunately, the mule was unhurt, though it could not move until the
+branches which had crushed it to the earth had been cut away with axes.
+When we had released the beast and were retiring to our quarters, we
+saw a sight never to be forgotten. Looking down from our crest into the
+valley and across upon the other ridges and mountains beyond, we saw
+that the camp-fires of charcoal-burners and wayfarers had been fanned
+by the winds and spread into the forest until a dozen great lines of
+blazing trees lit up the landscape in every direction.
+
+Our leaving Ixcuintepec in the early morning was not agreeable. The
+teachers were irritated over the affair of the _zacate_; the town
+authorities were dissatisfied with our refusal to pay for two lots of
+it. There was grumbling, and many dark looks followed us. We were rather
+glad to get away from the town without a serious outbreak. We were now
+on the road to the last of the Mixe towns we should visit, Coatlan. The
+road seemed endless, the ascent interminable; the town itself impressed
+us as exceptionally mean and squalid, and we stopped only long enough
+to eat a miserable dinner of eggs with chili and _tortillas_. The women
+here wore native dress. Several were clad as the Zapotec women from here
+to Tehuantepec, but a few were dressed in striking _huipilis_ of native
+weaving, with embroidered patterns, and had their black hair done up in
+great rings around their heads, bright strips of cloth or ribbon being
+intermingled in the braiding. Literally and figuratively shaking the
+dust of the Mixe towns from our feet, we now descended into the Zapotec
+country. We were oppressed by a cramped, smothered feeling as we
+descended from the land of forested mountains and beautiful streams. At
+evening we reached San Miguel, the first Zapotec settlement, a little
+group of houses amid coffee plantings.
+
+[Illustration: FIESTA OF SAN MARCOS; JUQUILA]
+
+[Illustration: BRIDGE OF VINES, NEAR IXCUINTEPEC]
+
+At the first indian house, we asked if we might have shelter for the
+night. The owner cordially answered, "_Como no? se�ores_," (Why not?
+sirs). He explained, however, that there was nought to eat. After eating
+elsewhere, we made our way back to our lodging-place, a typical Zapotec
+hut, a single room, with dirt-floor, walls of canes or poles, and thatch
+of grass. The house contained a hammock and two beds of poles, comforts
+we had not known for days. I threw myself into the hammock; Ernst lay
+down upon one of the beds; the man and woman, squatting, were husking
+corn for our horses; a little girl was feeding a fire of pine splints,
+built upon the floor, which served for light. As they worked and
+we rested the man asked that question which ever seems of supreme
+importance to Mexican indians, "_Como se llama Ud. se�or_?" (What is
+your name, sir?). "Ernst," replied our spokesman, to whom the question
+was addressed. "_Y el otro_?" (And the other?), pointing to me. I
+replied for myself, "_Federico_." The man seemed not to catch the word
+and badly repeated it after me. "_No, no_," said the much quicker
+woman, "_Federico! Federico! si, se�or, nosotros tenemos un Federico,
+tambi�n_," (Yes, sir, and we have a Frederick, also). "Ah, and where is
+he?" "He will come, sir; we have four boys, Luca and Pedrito, Castolo
+and Federico; Federico is the baby; the little girl, here, is between
+him and Castolo; they are working in the coffee-field, but they will
+soon be here." At nine o'clock the little fellows appeared. They lined
+up in the order of age, placed their hands behind them, and waited to be
+addressed. Castolo, then about ten years of age, most pleased me, and
+I asked him, among other things, whether he could read and write. His
+father answered for him, that he could not read or write; that the
+opportunities were not good; but that he believed Castolo _could_ learn,
+that he had a good mind. At this point the mother spoke to her husband
+in Zapotec. Some argument ensued, in which at last she triumphed.
+Turning to me, the man said: "She says you may have Castolo; you may
+take him to your country and there he can learn to read and write and
+whatever else you wish." It was not altogether easy to refuse this gift;
+finally I replied that we had a long journey ahead and that Castolo
+would weary on the road; that he had better wait until some later time.
+
+It was now time for the family to dispose of itself for the night. I was
+already in the hammock and Ernst had one of the pole-beds; the man, his
+wife, and little Federico occupied the other bed; the little girl and
+the three older boys climbed, by a notched log, up to a loft constructed
+of poles or canes on which they laid themselves down. After all were
+located, the woman barred the door and we were soon asleep.
+
+All rose early. Not only did we wish to make an early start, but the
+boys, too, were to make a journey. Our friends had agreed to make us
+some coffee and _tortillas_. We had made our preparations for starting
+and were waiting for our breakfast, when a shriveled and wrinkled
+old woman tottered up to beg the strangers to visit her sick son and
+prescribe some _remedio_. On our consenting to go with her, she caught
+up a stick of fat pine, lighted it in the fire, and with this blazing
+torch to light the way, preceded us to her house. Her son had been a
+strong and robust young man, but four months of lying upon his pole-bed
+had sadly reduced him. He was thin and pale, coughed sadly, and suffered
+with fever, chills, and dreadful headaches. He was taking medicines
+brought from Tehuantepec, but these seemed to have no effect and we were
+begged to suggest treatment. We advised continuance of the remedy she
+had been using, but also prescribed hot water taken in the morning and
+at night, hot water applications for the headaches, quinine for the
+chills and fever, and a digestive for the stomach trouble, and furnished
+these remedies from our own supplies. Having lighted us back to our
+lodging-place the old lady asked our charge. When we refused to receive
+payment from the poor creature, we noted an increased activity on the
+part of our host and hostess; a bit of cheese was promptly found and
+added to the waiting coffee and _tortillas_, and when we called for our
+own reckoning, we received the hearty response--"_Nada, se�or, nada_;"
+(nothing, sir, nothing) "and when you come this way again, come straight
+to us, our door is always open to you."
+
+[Illustration: SANTIAGO GUEVEA]
+
+We were now ready and found that the three boys, Luca, Pedrito, and
+Castolo, were waiting to accompany us as far as our roads were the same.
+They were to go on foot, five leagues, into the mountains to bring back
+some mules from a camp; they expected to reach their destination that
+day, to sleep on the mountain, and to bring in the animals the next day.
+The little fellows, from thirteen to nine or ten years old, seemed to
+find nothing extraordinary in their undertaking; each carried his little
+carrying-net, with food, drinking-gourd, and an extra garment for the
+chilly night, upon his back; Pedrito buckled to his belt the great
+_machete_, which men here regularly carry for clearing the path, cutting
+firewood, or protection against animals. They were very happy at
+accompanying us for a distance. We soon rose from the low, malarial,
+coffee _fincas_ onto a fine mountain, which was the last of its kind
+that we saw for many days; it was like the mountains of the Mixes,
+with its abundant vegetation of ferns, begonias, and trees loaded with
+bromelias and orchids. Our bodyguard kept up with us bravely until we
+had made one-half of the ascent, where they fell behind and we saw them
+no more. Reaching the summit, we saw before us a distant line of blue,
+interrupted here and there by some hill or mountain,--the great Pacific.
+From here on, the beauty of the road disappeared. We descended and then
+mounted along dry slopes to Santiago Guevea, then hot and dusty. Our
+friends of San Miguel really live in Guevea and are at San Miguel only
+when the coffee needs attention. From Guevea the road was hard and dry
+and dusty to Santa Maria. The mountain mass over which we passed was
+a peak, the summit of which was covered with masses of chalcedony of
+brilliant colors, which broke into innumerable splinters, which were
+lovely to see but hard upon the feet of horses; the surface of this part
+also gave out a glare or reflection that was almost intolerable. We
+descended over granite which presented typical spheroidal weathering.
+We went onward, up and down many little hills, reaching Santa Maria at
+noonday. The village sweltered; the air scorched and blistered; there
+was no sign of life, save a few naked children playing in the shade or
+rolling upon the hot sand. It was so hot and dusty that we hated to
+resume our journey and tarried so long that we had to ride after
+nightfall before we reached the _rancho_ of Los Cocos, where we lay in
+the corridor and all night long heard the grinding of sugar-cane at the
+mill close by.
+
+We had just such another hard, hot, and dusty ride the next day,
+on through Auyuga and Tlacotepec, where we stopped for noon, until
+Tehuantepec, where we arrived at evening.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV
+
+THROUGH CHIAPAS
+
+(1896)
+
+
+Tehuantepec is meanly built; it is hot and dusty, and the almost
+constant winds drive the dust in clouds through the streets. But its
+picturesque market is a redeeming feature. Every morning it is crowded
+and presents a brilliant and lively spectacle. All the trade is in the
+hands of women, and the Tehuantepec women have the reputation of being
+the handsomest in the world. They are large, finely-built, and in their
+movements exhibit an indescribable freedom and grace. Their natural
+attractions are set off by a characteristic and becoming costume. The
+_huipilili_ is a little sleeveless waist, loose at the neck and arms,
+and so short that it rarely reaches to the waist-line, to which, of
+course, it is supposed to extend; it is of bright cotton--red, brown,
+purple, with stripes or spots of white--and is stitched at the neck with
+yellow silk. The _enagua_, or skirt, is a strip of heavy cotton cloth,
+less than a yard wide, which is simply wrapped around the figure and
+hangs from the waist, being held in place by a brightly colored belt or
+girdle. The _enagua_ is usually a rich red, but it is sometimes a fine
+violet purple. It reaches but little below the knees. It generally fails
+to meet the _huipilili_ above, so that a broader or narrower band of
+fine, dark brown separates the two garments. Nothing is worn on the
+feet, which are exposed, as are also the finely shaped and beautifully
+developed arms. But the most striking article in the Tehuantepec
+woman's costume is her _huip�l_, which travellers usually describe as
+a head-dress, although it is nothing of the kind. It is in reality a
+waist-garment with sleeves. It is made of lace or cotton, or linen, and
+is bordered at the neck, the sleeves, and the lower margin with broad
+ruffs of pleated lace. Only at church or on some important or ceremonial
+occasion is the _huip�l_ worn as it was meant to be. Usually at church
+the wearer draws the garment over her upper body, but does not put her
+arms into the sleeves, nor her head through the neck-opening, simply
+fitting her face into this in such a way that it appears to be framed in
+a broad, oval, well-starched border of pleated lace. Usually, however,
+the garment is not even worn in this manner, but is turned upside down
+and carelessly hung upon the head so that the broad lower fringe of lace
+falls back upon the hair, while the upper part of the garment, with the
+sleeves, the collar, and cuff-ruffs, hangs down upon the back. The whole
+effect is that of a fine crest rising from the head, coursing down the
+back, and moving with the breeze as the woman walks. These Zapotec women
+are fond of decoration, but particularly prize gold coins. In the past,
+when Tehuantepec was more important than now, it was no uncommon thing
+to see a woman in this market with several hundred dollars in gold coins
+hanging to her neck chain. In these later days of little trade and
+harder times, these once prized decorations have been spent, and it
+is rare to see any woman wearing more than twenty to fifty dollars as
+display.
+
+[Illustration: READY FOR CHURCH; TEHUANTEPEC]
+
+[Illustration: THE WIDE ROAD; TEHUANTEPEC TO JUCHITAN]
+
+Resuming our journey, we struck out upon the highway which parallels
+the coast. Almost immediately, the road changed from a fair country
+cart-road to a road remarkable at once for its straightness, breadth and
+levelness. It was, however, dreadfully hot and dusty, and was
+bordered on both sides with a tiresome and monotonous growth of low,
+thorn-bearing trees, with occasional clumps of palms. We ate dinner at
+Juchitan, in a little eating-house conducted by a _Japanese_! A little
+beyond that important indian centre, we saw a puma pace forth from the
+thicket; with indescribably graceful and slow tread it crossed the dusty
+road and disappeared in the thicket. In the morning we had startled
+flocks of parrots, which rose with harsh cries, hovered while we passed,
+and then resettled on the same trees where they had been before. In the
+evening we saw pairs of macaws flying high, and as they flew over our
+heads they looked like black crosses sharp against the evening sky. At
+evening we reached Guvi�o, a dreadful town, in the population of which
+there seems to be a negro strain. We stopped with the _presidente_, in
+whose veins flowed Spanish, indian, and negro blood. In his one-roomed
+house besides ourselves there slept the owner, his wife, two daughters,
+one with a six-weeks baby, a son, and two young men--friends of the
+family.
+
+Turning north the next day, onto the Niltepec road, we wandered from our
+trail, losing five leagues of space and more than three hours of time.
+The country through which we passed was terribly dry; there were
+no running streams. We crossed the bed of one dried river after
+another--streaks of sand and pebbles. The people in the villages near
+these dried river-beds dug holes a foot or two deep into this sand and
+gravel and thus got water. At the place where we camped for the night,
+Suspiro Ranch, a new house was being palm-thatched. All the men and boys
+of the neighborhood were helping; the labor was carefully divided; some
+were bringing in great bundles of the palm leaves; others pitched these
+up to the thatchers, who were skilfully fitting them under and over the
+poles of the roof framework and then beating them firmly home. Many of
+the helpers had come considerable distances and spent the night, so that
+we shared our room with quite a dozen men and boys, while the women and
+children slept in another house.
+
+Passing through Zanatepec, we stopped for Sunday at Tanatepec. Here we
+found ourselves again upon the low coast road. It was, however, our last
+point of low altitude, as from there we struck inland over a higher,
+cooler, and more interesting mountain road. At Zanatepec we first saw
+the _marimba_ played. This musical instrument, unquestionably African
+in name and origin, is hardly found north of Chiapas, but is extremely
+common through Central America. It consists of a wooden frame supporting
+keys made of wood and metal, each of which gives forth its own note when
+struck with small hammers. Below the keys of lowest tone are hung tubes,
+pipes, or gourds, as sounding boxes to increase the sound produced by
+striking the key. Usually four players perform at one time, each using
+two or more little hammers. The music is rapid and brilliant, somewhat
+resembling that of the piano. The instrument usually has some fanciful
+name, which is painted upon it. The one at Tanatepec was _La Azteca_
+(The Aztec Lady), while our next one was _La reina de las flores_ (The
+queen of the flowers). At Zanatepec, _La Azteca_ was an advertising
+part of a traveling circus. The troupe consisted of three men and
+three women, the latter of whom seemed to be mulattos. The men were
+ridiculously garbed and painted to represent wild indians. The real,
+live indians, who followed these clowns in delighted crowds, enjoyed
+thrills of terror at their whoops, fierce glances, and wild antics,
+and assured us that these actors were, if not the real thing, at least
+wonderfully accurate impersonations of the natives of the _Estados
+unidos_ (United States)--the land of the "Apaches."
+
+From Tanatepec we were in Chiapas, the southernmost state of the
+republic. We struck out over a fine mountain road, _passable for carts_
+all the way to Tuxtla Gutierrez, the capital of the state. Our first
+ascent was over a magnificent mountain mass of syenite, which at some
+places seemed to be as fine as our own Quincy stone. The road, with many
+short zigzags, made a remarkably abrupt ascent, and, having reached the
+crest, wound like a vast serpent along the summit. As we descended into
+the following valley, we encountered a beautiful deer, which stood in
+the middle of the road, eyeing us with curiosity, until we were almost
+upon it, when it dashed into the thicket and then stopped to again eye
+us. Upon attaining the second summit we were amid pines. All day we had
+had a wind in our faces, cold and so strong as to almost blow us from
+the narrow ridge, yet the sky was cloudless. Looking back from our
+summit, a magnificent view to the ocean was spread before us. Below us
+were the mountains over which we had come, then a valley broken with
+mountains of a lesser size; beyond, was the dry, coastal plain, and yet
+beyond it, the sea. The dark green pines, the blue sky, the brown hills,
+the gray plain, the stretch of blue-green waters, made a wonderful color
+combination.
+
+The next two days were most uninteresting. We were often reminded of
+the recent threat of war between Mexico and Guatemala, the disputed
+border-line between which we were now nearing. We met marching bands of
+soldiers who were returning to Juchitan. Officers were on horses,
+common soldiers on foot, pack-mules were laden with luggage, the women
+(accompanying their husbands) were weighed down with coffee-pots,
+bundles of clothes, and babies, all strapped on their backs together.
+They were a motley crew. At Jiquipilas a company was encamped in the
+plaza. Our mule, Chontal, took particular delight in running into such
+bands of marching soldiers as we encountered, causing no end of trouble.
+On one occasion, as a group approached us, he ran forward at a
+lively pace into their midst and tangled himself up with a party of
+prisoners,--apparently soldiers in disgrace,--who, tied together with
+ropes, were under guard. As we rode up to capture him, I felt a hand at
+that coat pocket which contained our money-bag and, turning suddenly,
+found one of the guard trying to draw the bag of money from my pocket. I
+struck at him with my whip and he slunk away.
+
+The last day of travel before reaching Tuxtla Gutierrez, we passed one
+of the few pretty places on this dreary road, Agua Bendita. At this
+point the road makes a great curve, almost like a horseshoe; at the
+middle of this curve there rises to the right of the road a wall of
+limestone rock the plainly defined strata of which are thrown into a
+gentle anticlinal fold. The upper layers of this arch were covered with
+shrubs, clinging to its face, while the lower layers were tapestried
+with a curtain of delicate ferns, which hung down over the open arch
+below, under which the road passed. Water trickled through this
+limestone mass and dripped and collected in little basins, which had
+been excavated in the ledge close by the roadside. Some grateful passer
+had set up little crosses by the water pools, and they were gay that day
+with purple orchids plucked from a near-by tree. In this tree, amid the
+brilliant clumps of yet unplucked blossoms of the orchids, were a number
+of toucans with their enormous, brightly colored bills--the _picos de
+canoa_ (canoe beaks) of the people.
+
+Tuxtla Gutierrez is a town of some thousands population, with a central
+plaza where the local band plays almost every evening, and a market
+place of exceptional interest. Here, as nowhere else, we saw crowds of
+the purest indians in native dress. Chiapas is the home of at least
+thirteen tribes, each with its own language. Among the most interesting
+indians we saw in the market were the Tzotzils, from Chamula, who wore
+heavy, black woolen garments. The indians of the town and its immediate
+vicinity are Zoques.
+
+Few Mexican governors possess the breadth of view and the intelligent
+enterprise of Governor Leon, whom we encountered here. A man of middle
+age, of fair stature though slight in build, with dark complexion,
+iron-gray hair, beard and whiskers carefully trimmed after the French
+fashion, his appearance creates a favorable impression. He did
+everything in his power for our comfort and assistance, and supplied us
+with letters to the _jefes politicos_ of the districts through which we
+were to pass. We congratulated him upon the cart-road over which we
+had come from Zanatepec, an important public work for this part of the
+world; he told us he began it three years ago with a force of but nine
+men; that it would be extended to San Cristobal and San Bartolome; that
+he was no engineer, but that he could tell quite well when a road was
+passable for a cart. We found him greatly interested in a congress
+which he had called of persons interested in labor questions. Among the
+questions which he hoped to see considered was the abolition of the
+system of _peonage,_ which still exists in full development in the
+state.
+
+Less than three leagues from Tuxtla Gutierrez is Chiapa, famous for the
+brightly painted gourds and calabash vessels there manufactured and
+sent out to all parts of the republic. Toys, rattles, cups, and great
+bowl-basins are among the forms produced. We visited a house where five
+women were making pretty rattles from little crook-necked gourds. The
+workers sat upon the floor, with their materials and tools before them.
+The first one rubbed the body of the dry gourds over with an oil paint.
+These paints are bought in bulk and mixed upon a flat slab, with a
+fine-grained, smooth, hard pebble as a grinder, with _aje_ and a white
+earth dug near the road between Chiapa and Tuxtla Gutierrez. The _aje_
+is a yellow, putty-like mass which gives a brilliant, lacquer-like
+lustre; the white earth causes the color to adhere to the surface to
+which it is applied. The second woman rubbed the neck of the gourd with
+green paint; the third painted the line of junction of the two colors
+with white, using a brush; the fourth brought out the lustre of the
+before dull object by rubbing it upon a pad of cotton cloth upon
+her knee, giving a final touch by careful rubbing with a tuft of
+cotton-wool; with a brush, the final worker rapidly painted on the
+lustrous surface delicate floral or geometric decoration. Though
+representing so much delicate and ingenious labor, these pretty toys
+were sold at the price of two for a _medio_ (three cents in United
+States currency).
+
+The _aje_ which gives the brilliant lustre to this work deserves more
+than a passing notice. It is made chiefly at San Bartolome and is
+secured from an insect, a sort of plant-louse, which lives upon the
+blackthorn and related trees. The insect is found only in the wet
+season, is small, though growing rapidly, and is of a fiery-red color,
+though it coats itself over with a white secretion. It lives in swarms,
+which form conspicuous masses. These are gathered in vessels, washed
+to remove the white secretion, boiled, crushed, and strained through a
+cloth; an oily matter, mixed with blood (?) and water passes out, which
+is boiled to drive off the water and to concentrate the oily mass. This
+is then washed in trays, to rid it of the blood, and made up into balls,
+which are sold at ten or twelve _centavos_ (five or six cents) a pound.
+It is a putty-like substance, with a handsome yellow color. We have
+already stated that it is ground up with dry paints to be rubbed on
+the object which is to be adorned, and that the brilliant lustre is
+developed by gentle and rapid friction.
+
+[Illustration: ZAPOTEC WOMAN; SAN BLAS]
+
+[Illustration: CASE OF WHITE PINTO; TUXITA GUTIERREZ]
+
+_Pinto_, a spotting or discoloring of the skin, is a common disease in
+many parts of Mexico. Three varieties are recognized--white, red, and
+blue or purple. The disease is particularly frequent in the states
+of Guerrero and Chiapas, and we had heard that it was very common
+in Chiapa. Perhaps twenty per cent of the population really has the
+disease; at San Bartolome perhaps seventy-five per cent are affected; in
+some towns an even larger proportion is reported. The white form appears
+the commonest. One subject examined at Tuxtla Gutierrez was a woman some
+sixty years of age. At birth she showed no symptom of the trouble, but
+spots began to appear when she was seven or eight years old. She was
+naturally dark, and the white spots were in notable contrast to her
+normal color; the spots increased in number and in size until her face
+and arms looked as if they had been white and become brown-spotted,
+instead of _vice versa_. After she was forty years of age her spots
+varied but little. The cause of this disease is still obscure, although
+several treatises have been written upon it. Authorities do not even
+agree as to the sequence of the forms of the disease, if there be such
+sequence. Some assert that the white form is the early stage and that
+the disease may never progress beyond it; others assert that the white
+spots are merely the permanent scars, left after the disappearance
+of the disease itself. Maps of distribution seem to show a distinct
+relation of the disease to altitude and character of water-supply. The
+common herd attribute it to an insect sting, to drinking of certain
+water, or to bathing in certain pools. Usually, there is no pain or
+danger connected with the trouble, except in the red form, but if the
+person affected changes residence, itching and some discomfort may
+temporarily ensue. The _presidente_ at Chiapa took us to the jail, where
+the prisoners were filed before us and made to hold out hands and feet
+for our inspection. Such cases of _pinto_ as were found were somewhat
+carefully examined. All we encountered there were of the white variety.
+Later, at private houses, we saw some dreadful cases of the purple form.
+Very often, those whose faces were purple-blotched had white-spotted
+hands and feet.
+
+We had not planned to stop at Acala, but after a hard ride over a dreary
+road and a ferrying across a wide and deep river in a great dugout canoe
+thirty feet or more in length--our animals swimming alongside--we found
+our beasts too tired for further progress. And it was a sad town. How
+strange, that beautifully clear and sparkling mountain water often
+produces actual misery among an ignorant population! Scarcely had we
+dismounted at our lodging place, when a man of forty, an idiot and
+goitrous, came to the door and with sadly imperfectly co-ordinated
+movements, gestured a message which he could not speak. Almost as soon
+as he had gone a deaf-mute boy passed. As we sat at our doorway, we saw
+a half-witted child at play before the next house. Goitre, deaf-mutism,
+and imbecility, all are fearfully common, and all are relatedly due to
+the drinking water.
+
+To us, sitting at the door near dusk, a song was borne upon the evening
+breeze. Nearer and nearer it came, until we saw a group of twelve or
+fifteen persons, women in front, men and children behind, who sang as
+they walked. Some aided themselves with long staves; all carried burdens
+of clothing, food, utensils; all were wearied and footsore with the long
+journey, but full of joy and enthusiasm, as they were nearing their
+destination--a famous shrine. Passing us, they journeyed onward to an
+open space at the end of town, where, with many others who had reached
+there sooner, they camped for the night. The next day we constantly
+passed such parties of pilgrims; coming or going to this shrine which
+lay a little off the road between Acala and San Bartolome. In one group,
+we counted ninety pilgrims.
+
+[Illustration: RIVER BETWEEN CHIAPA AND ACALA]
+
+[Illustration: THE INDIAN GOVERNMENT AT SAN BARTOLOME]
+
+We had been told that San Bartolome was full of goitre, and we really
+found no lack of cases. It is said that forty years ago it was far more
+common than now, and that the decrease has followed the selection of a
+new water source and the careful piping of the water to the town. In the
+population of two thousand, it was estimated that there might be two
+hundred cases, fifty of which were notable. None, however, was so
+extraordinary as that of which several told us, the late _secretario_ of
+the town, who had a goitre of such size that, when he sat at the table
+to write, he had to lift the swelling with both hands and place it on
+the table before he began work. The former prevalence of the disease is
+abundantly suggested by the frequency of deaf-mutes, a score or more
+of whom live here--all children of goitrous parents. Bad as was San
+Bartolome, it seemed to us surpassed by San Antonio, where we found
+the disease in an aggravated form, while at Nenton, our first point in
+Guatemala, every one appeared affected, although we saw no dreadful
+cases.
+
+San Bartolome is an almost purely indian town, where for the first time
+our attention was called to the two sets of town officials--indian and
+_ladino_. The indian town government consisted of four Indians of pure
+blood, who wore the native costume. This, here, is characteristic, both
+for men and women. The men wore wide-legged trousers of native woven
+cotton, and an upper jacket-shirt, square at the bottom, made of the
+same stuff, with designs--rosettes, flowers, geometrical figures, birds,
+animals, or men--wrought in them in red, green, or yellow wools; about
+the waist was a handsome brilliant native belt, while a bright kerchief
+was twisted about the head. The men were well-built, but the _alcalde_
+was a white _pinto_. Women wore _huipilis_, waist-garments, sometimes
+thick and heavy, at others thin and open, in texture, but in both cases
+decorated with lines of brightly colored designs. Their _enaguas_,
+skirts, were of heavy indigo-blue stuff or of plain white cotton, of two
+narrow pieces sewed together and quite plain except for a line of bright
+stitching along the line of juncture. As among other indian tribes, this
+cloth was simply wrapped around the figure and held in place by a belt.
+The town is famous for its weaving and dyeing; the loom is the simple,
+primitive device used all through Mexico long before the Conquest.
+We were surprised to find that the designs in colored wools are not
+embroidered upon the finished fabric, but are worked in with bits of
+worsted during the weaving.
+
+From San Bartolome to Comitan, the road passes over a curious lime
+deposit, apparently formed by ancient hot waters; it is a porous tufa
+which gave back a hollow sound under the hoofs of our horses. It
+contains moss, leaves, and branches, crusted with lime, and often forms
+basin terraces, which, while beautiful to see, were peculiarly harsh and
+rough for our animals. But the hard, and far more ancient, limestone,
+onto which we then passed, was quite as bad. At the very summit of
+one hill of this we found a cave close by the road; entering it, we
+penetrated to a distance of perhaps seventy-five feet, finding the roof
+hung with stalactites and the walls sheeted with stalagmite. Just after
+leaving this cave, we met a tramp on foot, ragged, weary, and dusty, and
+with a little bundle slung upon a stick over his shoulder. He accosted
+me in Spanish, asking whence we had come; on my reply, probably catching
+my foreign accent, he winked and said in plain English,--"Yes? And where
+are you going, pard?"
+
+After a hard day's ride, over a shut-in road, destitute of fine views,
+we reached the crest overlooking Comitan. The descent was almost
+precipitous. The town, better built and more compact than most, was
+situated near the foot of the hill; near it, on a terrace, was the
+cemetery. On the level road, stretching to a long distance from the
+town, we saw lines of hundreds of pack-mules, dwarfed by distance. South
+from the town stretched a grassy plain, bordered here and there with
+pine trees. Back of this plain rose round-topped hills, and beyond
+them were again the blue mountains; far in the distance, behind these,
+towered the mighty crests of the Guatemalan Sierra Madre.
+
+The town was crowded, as the annual _feria_ (fair) was in progress, and
+it was with difficulty that we found a room to sleep in, going for our
+meals to one of the many temporary eating-places in the plaza. Comitan
+is the last town of consequence in Mexico, and has wide fame on account
+of its spirits, known at _comiteco_. This drink, of enormous strength,
+distilled from coarse, brown sugar (_panela,_) is a favorite in
+Guatemala, and its smuggling across the border, though risky, is a
+lucrative business. There are scores of little distilleries in the town,
+many of them belonging to and conducted by women.
+
+Mexican paper money is useless between Tuxtla Gutierrez and Comitan. At
+the latter city it may be exchanged for silver, but with difficulty.
+From here on we found no copper in circulation, and before reaching
+Comitan we had begun to receive Guatemalan silver in our change. Fully
+thirty leagues from the border we ceased to receive Mexican silver from
+anyone. This notable displacement of Mexican currency seems curious,
+because Guatemalan money is at a heavy discount in comparison with it.
+At San Bartolome we sent a soldier-police to buy _zacate_, giving him
+Mexican money. He brought back two Guatemalan pieces in change, and on
+our objecting to receive it, assured me, not only that the money was
+good, but also that here the people were Guatemalans. "Here," said he,
+"not Mexico: here we are all Carrera's people." This, of course, was
+sheer treason. Carrera, the pure-blood indian who in the stirring days
+of 1839 seized the power in Guatemala, a strange and wild being who had
+a real love for his country, has left a profound impression. At times an
+exile, he had lived at Comitan, where his name was familiar to all the
+indians around. His coins are much prized by the indians for necklaces
+and earrings, and even at Tehuantepec we had seen women wearing his
+little gold pieces in their ears.
+
+It should have been an easy matter to go from Comitan to Nenton (in
+Guatemala) in a single day. As it was, we made it with great difficulty
+in two, our mule Chontal apparently being completely worn out. We
+crossed the _llano_, passed through patches of pines, and then came out
+upon a terrible country of limestone hills. In our last day's journey we
+had to coax, threaten, beat, drag, and push that mule until our voices
+were gone and our arms were tired. Immediately on passing the line into
+Guatemala, we found the telegraph wires cut and poles down, a result of
+the late unpleasantness with Mexico. The mountain mass before us, which
+had been in view for two days past, loomed up frightfully before us.
+Would our little mule be able to pass it? We remembered what an American
+tramp, whom we had met at Tuxtla Gutierrez and who had walked on foot
+from Guatemala City, had said: "Between Nenton and Huehuetenango you
+will pass over a mountain that will make your heart sick; may God help
+you." Just at dusk we looked down upon Nenton in a little valley, with a
+fine stream crossed by a pretty bridge, where mountains rose steeply on
+every side. Having been registered by the custom officials, we slept
+that night, our first in the new republic, in the municipal house.
+
+Next morning we started bravely, the whole town having assembled to
+see us off. We safely reached the foot of the mountain, where the mule
+stopped and braced himself. We spoke kindly, coaxed, dragged, but all
+to no effect. Finally he started, but three times within the next few
+minutes, he and we went through the same procedure. Patience had ceased
+to be a virtue; we held a serious consultation. Ernst asserted that by
+placing the rope over the nostrils of the animal and then leading, he
+must move. We tried the experiment. The beast gave a snort, a groan,
+lurched, fell over, kicked convulsively, closed his eyes, and lay to all
+appearance dead. The town below, which had been watching progress, came
+running up. We removed the halter; the animal lay quiet. The pity of
+the by-standers was maddening; their remarks exasperating. "Poor little
+mule, he dies;" they pointed to his rubbed sides,--"Ah, poor creature!
+What a heavy load! How thin he is." It is certain that the best mule in
+the town was in far worse condition, and as for food, Chontal had eaten
+more the night before than our two horses put together. Having exhausted
+their vocabulary of sympathy, our friends left us, as the "poor little
+animal" showed signs of coming to. We concluded to engage a man on foot
+to carry the burden across the mountains and to lead Chontal. After
+some delay a man was found, who readily agreed to carry the burden and
+pack-saddle, but when he found he was to lead the mule besides, he
+defied the town authorities and refused to go. Unfortunately, he was a
+carpenter and, by law, could not be made to go against his will. Hours
+passed, while another carrier was sought. Declaring that I would not
+return to town, I waited on the road with the mule, while Ernst rode
+back and forth. As soon as he had left, the beast began to mend; he
+coughed, raised his head, and, opening one eye, gravely winked. Taking
+his halter and encouraging him to rise, I led him a few yards up
+the hill, when he again braced himself and I desisted. There he ate
+_zacate_. Presently we took another turn, mounted a little higher up the
+hill, where he stopped again. A little later we made another journey,
+and again halted. Just then I heard an indian boy of fourteen years
+calling from the cliff above me in great excitement, "_Se�or, un
+animal_" (An animal, sir). Clambering over rocks, I came up to the boy,
+with his _machete_ in his hand, standing at the foot of a tree upon the
+leafless branches of which was a fine iguana (lizard) two feet or more
+in length. Visions of iguana steak, which I had long desired to try,
+rose in fancy. The boy was disgusted when he found I had no pistol
+with which to shoot his animal, but grunted, "If we but had a cord." I
+directed him where to find a cord among our luggage and on his return
+he made a slip-noose, cut a long and slender pole to which he tied his
+snare, then handing me his _machete_ he raised his pole and tried to
+slip the noose over the lizard's head. The iguana gave a leap, and as it
+shot by me I struck at it with the _machete_, which hit it and threw it
+on the rocks below. However, before we could reach it, it had made good
+its escape.
+
+Returning to the mule I found it eating grass contentedly by the
+roadside. It was three o'clock in the afternoon when our human beast of
+burden finally arrived, took up his burden and was ready to start. Then,
+suddenly, I took a new resolve. Before us rose the appalling mass of the
+Sierra Madre; to get that mule across it would wear us out in mind
+and body; I regretted that he had not died, and determined to have no
+further trouble with him. Quickly, we sent back word to Nenton that a
+mule and saddle were for sale; the crowd gathered. We demanded fifteen
+dollars for the mule, ten for the saddle; and were offered ten and five
+respectively. But we declared we would kill the mule and burn the saddle
+before we would take less; we triumphed. Our account stood:
+
+  Cost of mule                              $45.00
+  Cost of saddle                              6.00
+                                            ------
+                                             51.00
+
+  Selling price of mule                      15.00
+  Selling price of saddle                    10.00
+                                            ------
+                                            $25.00
+                                            ------
+  Loss--paid for experience in mules        $26.00
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V
+
+AT HUIXQUILUCAN
+
+(1897)
+
+
+Our serious work was to begin with one of the most conservative and
+reserved of Mexican indian populations. If we could do what we planned
+to do with the Otomis, we were likely to have but little greater trouble
+with any tribe. In ancient times the name of Otomi was synonymous with
+stupidity. When an Aztec was particularly stupid or clumsy, his fellows
+in derision called him an Otomi. They still are ignorant, suspicious,
+and unprogressive.
+
+Huixquilucan, which we had chosen as our field for labor, is situated
+on a high ridge within sight of the National Railroad, at a distance
+of perhaps a mile and a half from the station of Dos Rios. A crowd of
+indian women and children are always at the station when trains pass, to
+sell _tortillas, chalupas_, and _pulque_ to passengers; few travellers
+from the United States, passing over this road, have failed to notice
+the dark and ugly faces of these sellers, and have received their first
+impression of the indians of Mexico from seeing them. Our party, three
+in number, reached Dos Rios in the morning and began work at the station
+with the women who were selling there. Dr. Powell, as our interpreter,
+undertook the personal dealings, and our material, as was to be
+expected, was chiefly women. When we came to record the names of
+our subjects, we found that every woman's first name was Maria, the
+differentiation between them being first found in the middle name. They
+were little creatures, scarcely larger than well grown girls of eleven
+or twelve among ourselves. Some old women, with grey hair and wrinkled
+faces who piously kissed our hands when they met us, were among the
+smallest. Now and then some young woman or girl was attractive, but
+usually their faces were suspicious, sad, and old before their time. The
+skin was a rich brown; the eyebrows heavily haired, often meeting above
+the nose; the hair grew low upon the forehead, and in young women the
+forehead itself was covered with a fine downy black growth. The nose
+was flat, broad, and depressed at the roots, while its tip was flat and
+wide. The eyes were dark brown and the hair was black and coarse. If we
+were to judge the population by the women only, we might call the
+Otomis true pygmies. The average stature of 28 subjects was 1,435
+millimeters--while Sir William Flower's limit for pygmy peoples is 1,500
+millimeters.
+
+[Illustration: OTOMI INDIAN GIRLS; HUIXQUILUCAN]
+
+[Illustration: THE MOON-STONE, AT DOS RIOS STATION]
+
+Many of the women whom we measured and photographed carried babies; the
+disposition of the children while the mothers were being examined was
+something of a problem. When given to another woman they usually cried
+lustily, and so conducted themselves as to distract the attention of
+their mothers and interfere seriously with our work. In the crowd of
+lookers-on there chanced to be a little girl, surely not more than ten
+years old, who seemed to be a born caretaker. Upon her back, supported
+by her _ayate_, she carried her own baby brother. We quickly found that
+really refractory babies were best committed to her charge. No matter
+how loudly they might have been crying beforehand, when transferred to
+the arms of this little creature they became instantly quiet. The poor
+little thing was kept busily employed the greater part of the afternoon
+with the two babies, one upon her back, the other in her arms.
+
+Almost all the women wear the ancient costume, which consists of the
+_huip�l, enagua, faja_, and _ayate_. The _huip�l_ is a cotton blanket,
+with a slit through which the head passes. On each side of the slit are
+bands of patterns embroidered in bright colors. Much of the remaining
+surface of the garment may be similarly decorated; sometimes it becomes
+one mass of designs. The patterns are usually geometrical figures, but
+may be representations of animals, birds, or human beings. They may be
+regularly arranged, or jumbled together haphazard. The _enagua_, skirt,
+consists of two strips of cloth of different kinds and colors, sewn
+together side by side and then wrapped horizontally about the body. The
+strips of cloth are native spun, native dyed, and native woven.
+The favorite colors are dark blue, brownish purple, or indian red,
+horizontally banded with narrow black stripes. The two strips are
+usually joined by a line of colored stitching. The _enagua_ is simply
+wrapped about the body, sometimes thrown into pleatings in front, and
+held in place by a broad cotton belt of bright color, into which are
+woven birds, animals, human figures, and geometrical forms. These
+belts are called by the Spanish name, _faja_. Both men and women carry
+_ayates_. These are square or rectangular blankets made of _ixtli_, the
+strong fibre of the magu�y. Like the _enaguas_, they usually consist of
+two pieces, side by side, stitched together with some bright color. The
+fibre, which is gotten from the leaves partly by maceration, partly by
+beating, is spun in a primitive fashion. Almost every woman one meets
+upon the road, no matter what burden of babies or goods she carries,
+has a hank of the fibre thrown over her shoulder, and keeps her little
+spindle whirling, spinning the strong thread as she walks. Her spindle
+consists of a slender stick thrust through a whorl of baked pottery.
+Such whorls are no longer made, but the ancient ones, called by the
+Aztec name _malacates_, are picked up in the fields and reapplied to
+their old use. Usually the _ixtli_ thread is left of its original grey
+or white color, but sometimes the fibre is dyed, a fine shade of orange
+being favored. The _ixtli_ thread is woven into _ayates_, which are used
+for carrying burdens. Vegetables, charcoal, babies--anything--are put
+into them. Two ends are tied together to hold the burden in place, and
+the other two are passed across the breast and tied in front. These
+blankets are astonishingly strong and unyielding.
+
+At evening, after a fair day's work, we made our way on foot across the
+valley and up the long slope to the summit of the ridge on which lay
+Huixquilucan, the official centre of a municipality of 11,000 persons.
+Of these, 3,000 live in the village, while the remainder are clustered
+together in hamlets like San Bartolito, San Francisco, Agua Bendita, or
+are scattered in single-house settlements over the mountains. Of the
+11,000 persons, more than three-fourths claim to be full Otomis. There
+are no truly poor in the whole town. Every family has its field, its
+house, its bit of woodland. All the people still speak the native
+tongue, and many speak no other. The town is picturesquely situated upon
+the crest and flank of a long, narrow ridge, which is enclosed by a
+grand sweeping curve of lofty mountains. The flanks of the enclosed
+ridge and the whole slope of the surrounding mountains are occupied by
+the little fields of the indians, long narrow patches separated by lines
+of _magu�y_ or century-plants. The houses are built of adobe bricks with
+thick and solid walls, which are usually plastered on the outside and
+tinted white or pink. The roofs are pitched, but with a gentle slope.
+They consist of frameworks of poles upon which long narrow shingles are
+laid, and pegged in place with wooden pegs which project both above and
+below for several inches in a formidable, bristling way. Sometimes the
+shingles, instead of being pegged in place, are held by stones, which
+in some cases weigh several pounds, and are laid in regular horizontal
+lines.
+
+When we were there, great stacks of corn-husks were to be seen in
+almost every yard; these were placed on floorings, raised by posts some
+distance above the ground to keep them from animals. A long ladder
+usually leaned against one side of the stack and a light cross of sticks
+stuck into the top of the stack kept off evil influences. Sometimes this
+cross was cut in relief on the smooth, carefully trimmed end of the
+stack itself. More striking than these stacks, and quite characteristic
+of the Otomi country, were the queer corn-bins or granaries called by
+the Aztec name _cincalote_. They rose in all directions like great
+square columns. The floor of boards was slightly raised from the ground
+by stones, and measured some 4 or 5 feet on a side; from its corners
+rose 4 poles, sometimes to the height of 20 feet; these were connected
+at the top and held firm by ropes. The sides of the bin were built up
+of a cobwork of slender staves laid horizontally. The vertical bin thus
+formed was filled with ears of corn roofed about with a light thatch or
+shingled roof. Later in the season, as the corn was taken from these
+bins, the sides would have been removed piecemeal to keep progress with
+the diminishing hoard. When the time of planting should be near, the
+whole structure but the floor and upright poles would have disappeared.
+
+Next to maize the chief culture among the Otomis is _magu�y_. This forms
+division lines between the corn-fields and the village yards, and is
+sometimes, though not commonly here, planted in fields. The _magu�y_ is
+an agave very close to the century-plant. Manifold are its uses, but to
+the Otomi its value is chiefly in two directions. It furnishes _ixtli_
+fibre for _ayates_, and it yields _pulque_. For a dozen years
+the _magu�y_ plant stores away starchy food in its long, thick,
+sharp-pointed leaves. It is the intended nourishment for a great shaft
+of flowers. Finally, the flower-bud forms amid the cluster of leaves.
+Left to itself the plant now sends all its reserve of food into this
+bud, and the great flower-stalk shoots upward at the rate of several
+inches daily; then the great pyramid of flowers develops. But man
+interferes. The flower-bud is cut out, and a neat, deep cup is fashioned
+amid the bases of the cluster of leaves. The sap which should produce
+that wonderful growth is poured into this cup. The _pulque_ gatherer,
+with his long gourd collecting-tube, and skin carrying-bottle, goes from
+plant to plant and gathers the _agua miel_--honey-water. Fermented, it
+becomes the whitish, dirty, ropy, sour-tasting, bad-smelling stuff
+so dear to the indians. And the Otomi are fond of _pulque_. We were
+compelled to do our work in the mornings; in the afternoons everyone was
+drunk and limp and useless in the operator's hands.
+
+We slept and ate at the house of the _presidente_, an old _mestizo_
+of rather forbidding manners but kindly spirit. Our cases came rather
+slowly and a deal of coaxing, argument, and bribes were necessary to
+secure them. Here we gave a trifle, a few _centavos_, to each subject.
+The policy was bad, and we abandoned it with reference to all subsequent
+populations. Naturally the natives were hostile to our work. They
+thought that we were measuring them for their coffins; that they would
+be forced into the army; that disease would result; that an uncanny
+influence was laid upon them; that witchcraft might be worked against
+them. After having had a lot of trouble with many of our subjects, we
+were surprised one day to have the oldest man of the village, Antonio
+Calistro, born in 1813, still so hale and hearty that he works his own
+fields, come in for measurement and photographing. He still wears the
+old style of dress: a loose jacket with wide sleeves made of dark blue
+woolen cloth, gathered around the waist by a closely-woven cotton belt;
+short, wide-legged trousers of buckskin. He is the only man left in the
+village who wears his hair after the old fashion; that on top of his
+head in front was combed together and braided into a little tail, while
+that on the sides and back of the head was made into a longer braid.
+When we asked him how it was that he was not afraid to undergo our
+measurement and photographing, we learned that someone had told him that
+the purport of the work was to send information to the Pope in Rome as
+to how his Otomi children looked, and from respect for the Holy Father
+the old man of eighty years had walked in from his distant farm to be
+measured and photographed.
+
+A curious fact in respect to the Otomis resulted from our study. The
+men, apparently of pure blood, presented two quite different types.
+There are many who are as little as the women; these present almost the
+type already given as that of the women, but are a little lighter in
+color. The second type is tall, sometimes over 1,700 millimeters. It is
+lighter in color, presenting at times a light brownish-yellow shade.
+Some indians of this large type have white skins, blotched with
+disagreeable red or purple. The eyes of these large men are usually
+widely-spaced, and the face appears rounder than in their smaller
+brethren. All the Otomis of both types, men and women, have
+astonishingly big heads, and many dwarfish individuals would require a
+7-1/4 hat.
+
+[Illustration: THE CHURCH; HUIXQUILUCAN]
+
+[Illustration: OTOMI INDIAN; HUIXQUILUCAN]
+
+One night during our stay we had a grand illumination. It was St.
+Martin's Eve. During the afternoon the men and boys planted dead trees
+in the plaza and streets, and filled the branches with bunches of dry
+brush. At dusk we walked up to the crest before the church. All through
+the valley the men and boys had been busy, and as darkness settled down,
+blaze after blaze sprung forth until every hillside was dotted with
+flaming heaps. On every church and farm-house of large size, straight
+lines of little bonfires were built along the edges of the roof. There
+must have been many hundreds of fires in sight at once. Meanwhile,
+all the churches of the little hamlets around clanged their bells
+discordantly. Then the church close by us burst into illumination,
+and its bells joined in the clangor as we started down the hill. The
+villagers were putting torches to the piles, and children were dancing
+in the glare, shooting off their little rockets and adding their full
+share to the general confusion.
+
+In the olden time Huixquilucan had a bad reputation for highway
+robberies. A great hill overlooking the town is called the hill of
+crosses, and here a cross by the wayside usually signifies a place of
+murder. Many a traveller in the not distant past found his way from here
+as best he could to the capital city minus burden and money, minus hat
+and shoes, and sometimes minus clothing. They used to say that from
+Toluca to the city a man was robbed three times; the first time they
+took his money, the second his watch and valuables, the third, his
+clothes. We were told that the church here, the chief church of our
+Otomi friends, is called "the church of the thieves," and that it was
+even lately a favorite resort of _ladrones_, who prayed for blessing
+upon their thieving expeditions and for release in case they should
+be taken captive. And not so long ago, among the little silver votive
+offerings,--eyes, legs, arms, hands,--all given in fulfillment of
+promises for the cure of ailing members,--one might see little chains
+and manacles, visible evidence that saint or Virgin had kindly released
+some fellow, taken in his misdeeds, from a well deserved punishment, in
+answer to his pious prayers.
+
+Below the station of Dos Rios a little ravine borders the main valley.
+There, within sight of the track on one side of the ravine lies the
+stone which long ago "fell from the moon." It is a great boulder, with
+flat lower surface, and round upper surface, sufficiently large for a
+considerable party to camp on. The earth is washed away somewhat from
+below it, and on its under side are rude figures painted in imitation
+of suns and circles and symbolic designs. It is said that the indians
+throughout the country around respect this rock, making prayers and
+offerings to it.
+
+One of Huixquilucan's pretty hamlets is Agua Bendita,--blessed
+water,--near the upper, narrowing end of the valley. A dozen or so
+houses compose the settlement. Near it, upon a little side gorge, two
+lovely springs burst forth from the rock. From them a babbling stream
+of sparkling water flows, in which, in the bright sunshine, women wash
+clothes, and lay them out on bushes or grassy banks to dry; little naked
+children play about while the mothers labor; hither dusky maidens come
+to perform their toilets; here women fill their _ollas_ with water; here
+_pulque_-gatherers wash and scrape their skin bottles. In the little
+tank below, where the water lies so clear that everything is
+visible upon its bottom, one may see axolotls creeping. They are
+water-salamanders, but they have a strange history. Like frogs, they
+pass through a series of changes, and the larval is very different from
+the adult form. In some Mexican lakes of genial temperature, the little
+creature goes through its full history from the larva to the adult; but
+in cold mountain lakes, the adult form is never attained, and the larva
+(elsewhere immature) lays eggs that hatch its like.
+
+Our last evening at Huixquilucan, I went out to purchase native
+garments. We rode from house to house, and were quite away from the town
+in a district where houses were few and far between. It was nearly dusk
+and our search must end. We were at the last house on a slope near the
+bottom of a valley, on whose opposite slope were but a few houses. The
+people were primitive in appearance, dress and language. They could not
+understand all we said, but were anxious to please the "_padrecito_,"
+whose hand they kissed. Having no clothing to sell us, they tried to
+help us procure some. Orders were given to a shy and wild girl, with
+deep-set, shining jet-black eyes, raven hair and dark brown skin,
+dressed in rags. Stepping to a little out-jutting mass of rock, she
+gave a wild cry, looking across the valley to the nearest house on the
+opposite slope, fully half a mile away. We could see the people of
+the house turn out to hear. Then, in a high, clear voice, strangely
+penetrating, but without harshness or a break or pause for breath,
+with rising and falling intonation, she cried her message. There was a
+moment's pause, and then we saw the answering crier take her place, and
+in the same clear, penetrating, unbroken, up-and-down voice, came back
+the reply. It was not favorable, and the old man apologized for the
+failure, as he kissed the _padrecito's_ hand in parting.
+
+
+
+Some weeks later we were again at Huixquilucan, this time to secure some
+busts. Having reached the house of the _presidente_, we sent out our
+drunken friend Augustin, who had been useful to us during our measuring
+experiences, to find subjects. He finally appeared with a man who agreed
+to submit to the operation for one _peso_. Everything went well until
+the moulds were removed; it is true that in the removal a good deal of
+hair was pulled out, but no serious damage was done. When the _peso_
+agreed upon was offered, the subject indignantly refused to receive it,
+demanding five. I replied that he well understood our agreement: there
+was his _peso_; if he cared to take it, good; if not, I would keep it;
+but that to pay five _pesos_ was out of the question. He thereupon
+grew angry and boisterously demanded the increased sum. Several of his
+friends gathered and backed him in his demand. The noise they made
+attracted a still greater crowd until at last we were surrounded by
+forty or fifty angry Indians. The man continued to demand his five
+_pesos_, the other crying, "Pay him five _pesos_." I was firm, declaring
+that the man should receive no more than had been promised. Again the
+_peso_ was offered, again to be rejected. At that moment some brilliant
+genius cried, "If you do not pay five _pesos_ we will break your
+moulds." And the cry was caught up by the angry crowd: "Yes, we will
+break the moulds unless you pay five _pesos_." At this threat I told my
+two companions to stand back out of the way, and then, speaking to him
+who had suggested the breaking of the moulds, said, pointing to them,
+"Yes, break the moulds." His ardor cooled. Turning to another, I said
+to him, "Come, break the moulds." He began to back away. Turning to the
+cause of the disturbance, who had joined in the cry about destroying the
+moulds, I said to him, "Come, come, we are waiting for you to break the
+moulds." No one made a move toward destroying our plaster-work, so I
+said, "No, you know quite well you will not break the moulds; if you
+did, you know what would happen; I should take you all as prisoners to
+Toluca." At that moment, catching sight of the old _presidente_ who was
+passing on the road, I clapped my hands and beckoned him. When the old
+man came I laid the matter fairly before him, telling him the agreement
+that had been made, the time taken for the work, and the fact I had
+offered the man the _peso_ promised; that he now demanded five _pesos_,
+refusing to take the proffered money. The old man looked a moment at me,
+then at the angry indian; then at me, and again at the indian; then,
+stepping up to him, he patted him on the back as a father might a
+spoiled child, saying, "Come, come, son; don't be a fool; three good
+days' wages for an hour's time; take your _peso_ and be gone." We had
+feared the incident would cast a damper on our work and hinder other
+subjects. Far from it. We were supplied as rapidly as our men could work
+at the same price we paid our first subject.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI
+
+LAKE PATZCUARO
+
+(1897)
+
+
+Mexico has few large lakes, the largest, Chapala, having an area of
+only 1,685 square kilometers. Patzcuaro is much smaller, but far more
+picturesque. The form is something like a fat horseshoe; fine hills rise
+around it on all sides, behind which are mountain heights, with jagged
+outlines; pretty islands dot its waters, and twenty-two villages or
+towns of Tarascan indians are situated on its borders. The indians of
+these villages rarely use the land roads in going from town to town,
+commonly journeying by canoes, of a somewhat peculiar type. These are
+"dug outs," made from single tree trunks, and range in size from those
+intended for a single hunter to those which will carry ten or twelve
+persons. At the stern they are cut almost squarely across; at the bow
+they are trimmed to a slope; they are flat-bottomed and considerably
+wider at the bottom than above; they are dug out in such fashion that
+the walls are thin and almost vertical on the inner side. Buttressing
+pieces are left at the bottom, at two or three places, extending across
+the canoe and no doubt strengthening the sides; they also serve as
+squatting places for the passengers. The prow narrows as well as slopes
+upward, and a buttressing piece left in it serves as a foot-rest for the
+steersman, who sits in the bow, instead of in the stern. He steers by
+means of a long-handled paddle thrust through a loop of wood fastened
+to one side of the canoe. The paddles used for propulsion have handles
+three or four feet long, with round blades. The paddlers sometimes make
+their stroke on but one side of the canoe, sometimes on both. When they
+paddle over one side only, the stroke of the oar through the water is
+oblique, maintaining a steady course.
+
+[Illustration: SANTA FE DE LA LAGUNA]
+
+In such canoes the Tarascans of the lake villages go from place to
+place; in such a canoe, we started one morning before six o'clock, for
+Santa Fe de la Laguna. Our force consisted of three persons, an old man
+named Felipe, his wife, and a young man. All three had paddles, but only
+two really paddled, the third one steering. The sun rose shortly after
+we started, and the light effects of early morning on the water and
+surrounding mountains were fine. Though we had made an early start, many
+had started earlier, and in the first part of our journey we met scores
+of canoes, the paddlers of which were on their way to Patzcuaro. It
+was a beautiful sight to see six or eight paddlers in some great canoe
+keeping exact time in their movements, singing as they went. Sometimes
+two canoes were raced, and laughter and excited cries accompanied
+the contest. Here and there along the shores we saw little huts of
+fishermen, with nets hung out to dry, or groups of men seining or
+dropping dip-nets; upon many slopes were little terrace garden spots,
+where modest crops were cultivated; here and there were mats lately
+finished or heaps of fresh-cut rushes for their fabrication. Five hours
+of good paddling brought us to Santa Fe de la Laguna, just opposite the
+far more famous Tzintzuntzan, and but a little distance from the much
+larger town, Quiroga. Santa Fe is quite a town, stretching for a
+considerable distance along a terrace, but little elevated above the
+water level. The houses are built of rather large, dark-brown, adobe
+bricks; the walls are usually white plastered; the roofs of all the
+houses are tiled, and the supporting rafters of the roof extend out far
+beyond the front wall of the house, so that the passer on the footpath
+is sheltered against rain and the noonday sun. The outer ends of these
+rafters are cut to give an ornamental effect. All the houses are
+surrounded by fruit trees--orange, lemon, lime, _ahuacate_ and
+_chirimoya_. Each little property is surrounded by a stone wall of some
+height; the gate-way through this, giving entrance to the yard, is
+surmounted by a pretty little double-pitched roofing of thatch.
+
+A crowd of pure indians had gathered at the landing, by the time we were
+unloaded. Forty or fifty men and women of medium stature, dark-brown
+skin and broad, expressionless faces, watched our every movement with
+curiosity, but none was ready to assist us in carrying our luggage to
+the _curato_. Taking it ourselves, as best we could, we found a boy to
+direct us and made our way to the house. The _cura_, had gone to Quiroga
+and his suspicious household would not receive us until his return,
+although permitting us to leave our goods. Going to the _plaza_, we
+succeeded in getting bread and cheese at a _tienda_, and after eating
+loitered until, at half-past-two, the Padre Ponce made his appearance.
+We showed him our letters and asked his interest and aid. He at
+once made us at home in his house, summoned the officials, read the
+governor's letter aloud to them, and told them it was their duty to
+assist us in every way. We at once began our work, and before nightfall
+had measured and photographed a number of cases.
+
+The next morning, Saturday, all started merrily. After breakfast,
+however, Padre Ponce left us, going to Quiroga for celebrating
+Christmas. The moment he was gone, work slackened, and it was with
+difficulty that we could procure subjects. Early the next morning the
+_padre_ appeared to say mass, after which he stirred up the people and
+we were again at work. But as soon as he left for Quiroga, once more,
+the interest diminished. Finally, as no one came and the officials had
+disappeared, we started out upon a tour of investigation. We found the
+whole town drunk; the _juez_, the chief of police, the _mayores_, all
+were too drunk for measurement. We experimented upon two or three
+subjects, but soon gave up in despair.
+
+[Illustration: LOS VIEJOS; SANTA FE DE LA LAGUNA]
+
+Padre Ponce need not have gone to Quiroga for Christmas celebrations; we
+had them also. For example, we had _Los Viejos_. One afternoon, we saw a
+band of half-a-dozen persons singing in the street. All but one of them
+were men or boys dressed in long robes of brilliant red, purple or
+green, which were buttoned down the front; their heads were covered with
+white cloth, over which were fitted little masks of clay. The last one
+in the company was a woman, dressed quite in the usual fashion, but
+barefoot and with her _rebozo_ covering her face and a man's _sombrero_
+on her head. Two of the party had guitars of local manufacture. This
+company strolled through the streets, singing and dancing; some of the
+dancing was clog-dance, some the _jarabe_, a man and woman taking part.
+Having noticed this group, we saw that the whole town seemed in movement
+toward the _corral_ connected with the shrine behind the church.
+Following with the crowd, we found the _corral_ already filled with
+people. The men were seated on benches or squatting against the walls;
+women and children were sitting on the ground. We noticed that all the
+women brought burdens, which proved to be pots full of hot _atole_,
+bundles of large _tortillas_, trays heaped high with _tamales_, or sacks
+full of little cups. Various bands of dancers made their way around,
+delighting the crowd with their performances. The group we had already
+seen was the least interesting. Those that really represented _los
+viejos_ (the old men) were the best. These wore large, comic, wooden
+masks, many of which showed signs of long-continued use; one represented
+a long, warty, bearded face and was painted purple; others were painted
+red or brown, but most of them were of the natural color of the wood;
+great wigs of corn-husk or of matting were worn over the back of the
+head; the clothing was ragged and dirty, and in some cases was really
+of ancient style; some wore roughly made garments of the skin of the
+_tigre_. Each band had its leader, and each tried to outdo the others in
+the oddity of performance, vigor of dancing and coarseness of jest. Much
+fun and laughter were caused by their antics. Meantime, boys and young
+women were busied as waiters. Cups of steaming _atole_, delicious
+_tortillas_, hot _tamales_ were distributed until everyone, including
+the strangers, were supplied. No one ate until the whole company had
+been served, when the town officials set the example and all fell to
+feasting. Dancing, music, laughter and fun followed, and were kept up
+until some time after nightfall.
+
+On the second day after Christmas a strolling band of _pastores_, from
+San Geronimo, passed from house to house singing their Christmas songs.
+The company consisted of two or three musicians, a carrier--who was an
+indian boy about fifteen years old--and half a dozen other youngsters,
+wearing new palm hats and carrying long staves ending above in a loop
+from which streamed strips of brilliantly colored tissue paper. The
+carrier bore a cushion, upon which was stretched a figure of the infant
+Christ. At each house, he passed before the spectators, allowing them
+to kiss the figure and to deposit gifts of flowers or of money for the
+little church at San Geronimo; the music then struck up, the leader
+began to sing, and the little shepherds (_pastores_) marched around and
+around singing in chorus.
+
+We lost quite two days on account of the drunkenness of the town. When
+it was past, by a vigorous indulgence in wheedling and threatening,
+we got the work again under way, and were just finishing with our
+one-hundredth man, when Padre Ponce returned for good and all. We had
+nearly starved during his absence; his old housekeeper had done her best
+with the poor materials which we were able to secure, but the best was
+bad. With Padre Ponce came another priest, Padre Torres of Patzcuaro,
+who used to be located at Santa Fe and was much loved by the natives.
+With the assistance of the two Padres we were able to secure and deal
+with our female subjects in less than a day, and were ready to bid adieu
+to the _padrecitos_ and leave for Tzintzuntzan.
+
+[Illustration: CHURCHYARD AND BELLS; TZINTZUNTZAN]
+
+[Illustration: VIEW AT JANICHO; LAKE PATZCUARO]
+
+All the tourist world that goes to Patzcuaro visits Tzintzuntzan to see
+the Titian. Padre Ponce was anxious to have us see the famous picture
+and photograph it. It was late when we reached the town, which consists
+in large part of _mestizos_ and indians who speak little but native
+Tarascan. We found the _cura_ was not in town, but were taken to the
+_curato_; arrived there, we discovered that the good man had taken his
+keys with him. We arranged, with some difficulty, for something to eat,
+and, after supper, were shown into an open room, with an unfinished
+roof, without a door, and with no hint of bed. Here we shared a lumber
+pile with two or three young men and suffered frightfully from cold all
+night. We were up early, as sleep was impossible, and filled our time as
+best we could, until it was light enough to photograph the picture.
+
+We had our letter from Padre Ponce to the _cura_, in which he
+recommended the priest to have us photograph the painting. This letter
+and the governor's letter we had shown the town officials the night
+before, telling them that we should make the picture. They replied that
+they could not give permission to do so during the _padre's_ absence.
+After we had breakfasted, and the light had become sufficient, we made
+our way to the old church, in front of which are some beautifully
+gnarled and irregular ancient olive trees, amid which the old bells are
+quaintly hung. Entering the church, we soon found the Titian, a descent
+from the cross. The figures are boldly painted and skillfully grouped;
+the action and lighting concentrate upon the figure of the Christ. Padre
+Ponce had told us that the proper place from which to photograph was the
+pulpit, and he was right. The sacristan was looking on with doubt: when
+he saw us making preparations for the picture, he hurried to us and said
+it was against all rule for anyone to take a photograph when the _cura_
+was not present. We told him our time was short; that we must return
+to Patzcuaro that day to arrange our farther journey; we showed the
+governor's order and Padre Ponce's letter, but all in vain. We must wait
+until the _cura_ came. With this I put some _centavos_ in his hand and
+told him I was certain his duties called him outside the church and that
+we would not detain him; that we should stay awhile to gaze upon
+the picture, which deserved close and pious examination. He at once
+withdrew, locking the door behind him. The instrument was quickly placed
+in the pulpit and the picture taken. Curiously, the sacristal duties
+ended just as we were ready to leave the church and the door opened as
+if we had said "Open sesame."
+
+By ten-thirty we had secured a canoe and boatmen, two young and vigorous
+pure-blood indians. Though a wind was blowing squarely against us,
+we made good time. We stopped at the picturesque fishing-village of
+Janicho, on its rock island. Its houses cluster on a little terrace near
+the bottom of the hill, which rises behind it as a fine background.
+Steps of rock lead up the stony slope from the water's edge to the
+houses. In every yard mattings are laid, upon which little white fish
+are drying. As they walk through the streets or stand talking together,
+the men are ever tatting at nets; long lines of net-cord are reeled out
+for many yards along the wayside; hundreds of feet of seines are hung
+out in the sun to dry. The houses, with their pretty red tiling, are
+irregularly clustered along narrow winding streets. The people are
+purely indian, and wear the characteristic dress.
+
+[Illustration: TARASCAN FISHERMEN; JANICHO]
+
+No town in all the region makes so much use of the _tsupakua_, or
+spear-thrower, a wooden stick cut to fit the hand and support the shaft
+of a spear or long dart, the end of which rests against a peg near the
+tip of the thrower. By means of this instrument, the long, light, darts
+of cane with iron points are thrown more directly and forcibly than by
+the hand alone. These spears are used in hunting ducks. Anciently a
+spear-throwing stick was widely used through Mexico; to-day it lingers
+in few places, the best known of which is here on Lake Patzcuaro.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII
+
+TO URUAPAN BEFORE THE RAILROAD
+
+(1898)
+
+
+We easily arranged at Patzcuaro to leave for Uruapan the next morning.
+Although delayed beyond our proposed hour of starting, we were off at
+six. It was early enough, indeed, for the morning air was cold; heavy
+frost coated the leaves and grass and lay upon the soil; in spite of our
+heavy blankets, wrapped closely about us, we shivered as we rode along
+upon our horses.
+
+The ride, however, was a lovely one. At first we seemed to leave the
+lake behind us; mounting for some time we reached a summit from which it
+again broke upon our view; descending, we constantly caught glimpses
+of it, with its sinuous shores, its lovely mountain backgrounds, its
+islands, and its pretty indian towns. Finally, we again left it and rose
+into a magnificent mountain region, covered chiefly with pines. Passing
+through Ajuno, which lies upon a steep slope, we overtook a party of
+police, mounted on horses, taking a group of prisoners to Uruapan.
+At Escondidas, itself a miserable village, we were impressed by the
+mercantile spirit of these indians. In all these villages the houses are
+constructed of heavy logs or timbers, closely and neatly joined; the
+roofs are shingled with long and narrow shingles, and are abruptly
+four-sloped. At every house there was something for sale--food, drink,
+or _cigarros_. All these houses were built close to the edge of the
+road, and in the middle of the front was a little square window, in
+which the goods were shown. When no trade was solicited, these windows
+were closed with solid wooden shutters. Not only, however, was every
+house a store, but on the highway between towns, we passed many places
+where, beneath brush shelters, women offered fruit, food, or drink for
+sale. Usually several such shelters would be near together, and the
+venders had gay times, chatting, laughing and singing. Such houses and
+roadside-selling are common through the whole Tarascan region.
+
+[Illustration: TARASCAN WOMEN; JANICHO]
+
+Soon after passing Escondidas, we began a descent, which seemed
+absolutely endless. Time after time we thought we had reached the
+bottom, only to find that we were on a terrace from which another
+drop led us still further down. On and on into this bottomless pit we
+descended to Ziracuaretaro, a striking town. Banana plantings surrounded
+the houses; orange-trees covered with their golden spheres reared
+themselves to the unusual height of thirty feet or more; _mam�ys_, with
+their strange nut-brown fruits, and coffee-trees, loaded to breaking,
+were abundant. Amid this luxuriant mass of tropical vegetation,
+houses were almost invisible until we were directly in front of them.
+Notwithstanding the enormous descent we had made, it appeared to us,
+when we crossed the stream and began the ascent, that we had not really
+been to the bottom of the great valley. For a long distance we mounted
+through a district of sugar-canes; then passed a little settlement
+of rude huts spread out over a reddish space; then, by a gentle but
+circuitous ascent, to a rugged trail which brought us to the summit
+and the edge of the great slope to Uruapan. At the further side of the
+valley and to our left, in a mass of green, we saw smoke rising from the
+factories of Uruapan. Crossing one of the characteristic bridges of the
+district, with a pretty shingled roof--four-sloped like those of the
+houses--over it, and with benches at the sides, where passers can
+sit and rest, while looking at the dashing, gurgling, foaming, water
+below,--we followed a level road between blackberries, wild roses, and
+other shrubs, to Uruapan.
+
+No town in Mexico is more beautiful. Perpetual spring reigns. Although
+several thousand feet above sea level, it is so situated, with reference
+to mountain slopes and funnel valleys, that it has a genial climate,
+where plants nourish which are usually found only at lower altitudes.
+Its fruits and "the finest coffee in the world" have rendered the town
+long famous. The houses, bowered in dense groves of green, are of the
+picturesque Tarascan type. The four-sloped roofs, now covered with long,
+narrow shingles, now with the dull red tiles, suggest the prettiest
+pictures in Japanese towns. The streets are clean. Through the centre
+of the town dashes a mountain stream of clearest water, with the hue of
+sapphire. This pretty stream furnishes power for mills, factories and
+lighting-plant, and is crossed several times by picturesque, roofed
+bridges, in the shelter of which one may spend hours in watching the
+dashing water, foaming cascades, curious potholes worn in the rocky
+banks, and the passing Indians. Most Mexican towns are contented with
+one _plaza_; this one has three, following each other closely, separated
+only by single lines of narrow buildings. They are neatly planted, and
+supplied with bandstand and monuments. The town is electric-lighted and
+several hotels had been lately put in readiness to receive the crowd of
+visitors expected with the completion of the railroad, a matter of a few
+months later.
+
+The _prefecto_ of Uruapan and _jefe politico_ of the district is the
+son-in-law of Governor Mercado, and to him we bore a special letter from
+his father-in-law. The old gentleman had been insistent that we should
+return by Capacuaro and Cheran, indian towns. He said that at the former
+we should find a _mogote_ (mound or heap of stones and dirt) which every
+traveler should see, while at the latter Lumholtz had secured some
+skulls of exceptional interest, and that we should do the same. As our
+time was short, we asked the _prefecto_ to send a messenger to Cheran
+with orders to dig some skulls and have them ready against the time of
+our arrival. That official expressed delight in doing our bidding, and
+we saw the messenger summoned and the order placed in his hands, with
+full direction as to its delivery.
+
+[Illustration: INDIAN SPEAR-THROWER; LAKE PATZCUARO]
+
+Meantime, there were objects of interest for us in Uruapan itself. The
+town is famous for its lacquer work, made with _aje_, like that of
+Chiapa. Gourds are ornamented, fruit-forms are colored after nature,
+bowls made from fruit shells are elaborately decorated, all quite like
+the Chiapa work. What is characteristic of Uruapan are the placques and
+table-tops of wood, decorated with floral designs in brilliant colors,
+upon a background of dark-green, pink, blue, yellow, or black. This art
+is in the hands of a few persons, some pure indians. Visiting them, we
+found the wooden placques and table-tops are brought from one of the
+mountain villages of the Tarascans; they are first covered thickly with
+the background color; upon this the pattern is pencilled and then cut
+out in the lacquered surface; the color, mixed with oil and _aje_, as
+with other substances, is then applied with the finger-tips to fill the
+cut patterns; the lustre is then brought out by careful rubbing. The
+work is striking, and is prized throughout the Republic.
+
+In the same quarter of the town, where this local industry is carried
+on, are many goitrous persons. The disease seems to be confined to the
+one district, but there perhaps one-half the people have it, most of
+them to but a slight degree. Occasionally the swelling is notable, and
+in the families affected we find, as usual, deaf-mutism.
+
+On the morning of New Year's day, we left for Capacuaro and Cheran. As
+we rode out from the city, we were more than ever impressed with
+its verdant beauty and picturesqueness. The road to Capacuaro was
+unexpectedly level and good, and we reached the town, which is purely
+indian, by nine o'clock. Women, almost without exception, wore the
+native dress. Goitres were common, and some, among the men, were really
+enormous. Riding through the long town, we drew up before the house
+of the _jefe de policia_ (chief of police), and summoned the village
+officials. On their appearance we found that all but the _jefe_ himself,
+were drunk, the _secretario_ in particular being almost useless. When we
+handed him the letter from the _prefecto_ he was quite unable to make
+aught of its grandiloquence. Having looked it through in a dazed way, he
+declared that we were "gringos," "like the one who was here last year"
+(presumably Lumholtz). With some severity, I told him he did wrong to
+call visitors to the town by the opprobrious name of _gringos_, and
+ordered him to read the letter and make known its contents to the
+_jefe_. He made another effort and then helplessly said--"Who can make
+anything of such a letter? It is in their _idioma_." Sternly pointing to
+the signature I said--"The letter is from your _prefecto_ and written
+in his _idioma_; you see the _firma_." Helplessly shaking his head, he
+said, "Oh, yes, the _firma_ is that of Silvano Martinez, but the letter
+is in your _idioma_." Seeing that he was of no earthly use, I took the
+letter from him, and, turning to the crowd which had gathered, rebuked
+them for their drunkenness, asserting that it was disgraceful for a
+whole town government to be intoxicated at the same time; that some one
+ought always to be sober enough to attend to business; that we had been
+insulted by being called _gringos_, and that our order had not been read
+to them because the _secretario_ was too drunk to do his business; that
+there were two ways of dealing with such town governments, and that,
+unless something was done promptly, we would see how they would like
+to go back with us to Uruapan, whence we had come. The _jefe_, who was
+really not drunk, thereupon begged to know what we desired, and the
+drunken _secretario_ was somewhat frightened; the remainder of the
+official body expressed a wish to do only what we wanted. I then read
+the _prefecto's_ letter in my best manner and added that we had come to
+Capacuaro only at the desire of the governor himself, to visit their
+_mogote_, and that we ought to wait no longer for guidance. At once all
+was commotion and bustle. Bidding the disgraced _secretario_ go to his
+house and stay there, the _jefe de policia_ summoned the rest of his
+company about him, seized his staff of office, buckled on his great
+_machete_, and took the lead; three policemen, with their _machetes_,
+followed; two others, unarmed, followed, and, with this escort, we
+started to hunt our ruins on the mountain. They proved to be two heaps
+of rubbish, from constructions of stone. Had we had time for serious
+investigation they might have proved of interest; as it was, we spent
+but a few minutes in their inspection, and then, bidding our drunken
+escort good-bye, we continued our journey. We had planned to go first to
+Nehuatzen, thence to Parracho, and, after visiting Cheran, back again to
+Nehuatzen. At the _mogote_, however, we were already near the Parracho
+highway and at once struck into it. Our journey led through forests,
+chiefly of pine, with open glades, at intervals; on many of the trees
+we saw great bunches of a parasite that bore honeysuckle-like, yellow
+flowers. Parracho we found lying at the base of mountains at the very
+end of a long stretch of level. It is an unattractive town, our only
+reason for visiting which was to see something of the manufacture of its
+famous _rebozos_, which differ from others in the wide border of white
+and azure blue silk, which is attached to a netted foundation to form
+decorative patterns, representing birds and animals, or geometric
+figures. The work is curious, and I am inclined to see in it a surviving
+imitation of the ancient feather-work for which the ancient Tarascans
+were famous. From Parracho our road led through Aranza to Cheran. Just
+beyond Aranza we passed over the astonishing wash from some summer
+torrent. During the wet season a single rain may fill the gorges, sheet
+the mountain slopes with water, tear great trees from their hold, break
+off mighty rock fragments and carry them onward, like wooden blocks,
+with hundreds of tons of finer gravel. At this season there was not a
+sign of water; not a trickling thread was visible in any of the gorges;
+but from their now dried mouths there spread fan-shaped deposits many
+rods in length and breadth, containing quantities of blocks of rock that
+measured from four to ten feet in diameter, trunks of trees up to
+two feet in thickness, all in the greatest confusion and at places
+completely covering our road to a depth of several feet. We could trace
+the tailing out of the fans of deposit, from their thicker, heavier part
+at the base of the torrent, to their margin on the plain; from heavy
+rock masses weighing tons, through smaller masses, into sand and gravel.
+
+[Illustration: HOUSES AT URUAPAN]
+
+The way to Cheran seemed endless, but at last we reached that
+interesting, great indian town, when the afternoon was nearly spent.
+It was the New Year, and the street celebration of _los negritos_ (the
+negroes--or the little negroes) was in progress. As we rode through the
+streets, however, we attracted much attention and the performance was
+neglected. We rode directly to the town-house, entered and asked for the
+_presidente_. He was slow in appearing and long before he arrived scores
+of people were crowding around the doors and windows to see us and know
+our business. When he arrived, we greeted him in a most friendly way and
+told him that we had come for the skulls. He looked aghast. "The skulls,
+what skulls, sir?" "The skulls the _prefecto_ ordered you to dig for
+us." By this time, the crowd outside, which had increased with every
+minute, showed uneasiness. The _presidente_ declared he knew nothing of
+any skulls. After we had explained the matter more fully, he assured us
+that no messenger had come from the _prefecto_; this, which at first we
+thought to be a lie, was no doubt true. He was plainly scared. He begged
+us to be careful lest the people, who were ignorant, should overhear us.
+He told us that a year before Don Carlos (Lumholtz) had been there; that
+he, too, had wanted skulls, and that the town officials had given him
+permission to dig some from the graveyard; that this caused so much
+excitement and so many threats that the permission had to be revoked. He
+feared the people had already heard our wishes and were even then in an
+ugly mood--a thing which seemed likely from an inspection of the faces
+in the doorway and windows. He said, however, that Don Carlos afterward
+secured some skulls from an ancient burial-place not distant from the
+village, and, if we pleased to wait in Cheran through the morrow, as it
+was now too late, five in the evening, to do aught, he would gladly show
+us the burial place of the ancients, where no doubt abundant skulls
+could be secured. Not yet certain that the man was telling truth, we
+spoke to him severely, saying that we should report him to the governor
+for not having obeyed the order of the _prefecto_. At the same time we
+demanded an official document signed by himself as _presidente_, and by
+the _secretario_, and duly sealed, stating that no messenger had come
+to him from the _prefecto_. To our surprise this document was promptly
+furnished, good evidence that the _prefecto_ had played us false, only
+pretending to despatch the messenger whom we had seen started.
+
+With profuse apologies and expressions of regret from the officials, we
+left Cheran, hurrying on to Nehuatzen for the night. Our chief reason
+for doing so was that everyone who knew of our intention to visit Cheran
+had shaken their heads, remarking "Ah! there the nights are always
+cold." Certainly, if it is colder there than at Nehuatzen, we would
+prefer the frigid zone outright. Nehuatzen is famous as the town where
+the canoes for Lake Patzcuaro are made. We had difficulty in securing
+food and a place to sleep. The room in which we were expected to slumber
+was hung with an extensive wardrobe of female garments. These we added
+to the blankets we carried with us, but suffered all night long from the
+penetrating cold. The two indian boys, who accompanied us as guides and
+carriers, slept in the corridor outside our door and when day broke
+they were so cramped and numbed and stiff with cold, that they lighted
+matches and thrust their cold hands into the flames, before they could
+move their finger-joints. We had planned to leave at five, but it was
+too cold to ride until the sun should be an hour high, so finally
+we left at seven. There was heavy frost on everything; curved frost
+crystals protruded from the soil, and we broke ice a half inch thick in
+water-troughs, unfinished canoes, by the roadside.
+
+For ten hours we rode, without even stopping for lunch, through Sabina
+and Pichataro, San Juan Tumbio and Ajuno, back to comfortable Patzcuaro.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII
+
+TLAXCALA
+
+(1898)
+
+
+We have always loved the State of Tlaxcala and its quaint little capital
+city of the same name. For more than a dozen years its governor has been
+Prospero Cahuantzi, a pure-blood indian, whose native language is Aztec.
+He is a large, well built man, with full face and little black eyes that
+are sunken deeply into the flesh. He is a man of some force and energy.
+The population of his little state, the most densely populated in the
+Republic, is almost entirely indian, and it at once fears, hates, and
+respects him. Having made several previous visits to the city, and
+having always been graciously received by Don Prospero, we thought it
+hardly necessary to carry with us our usual letters of recommendation
+from the Federal authorities.
+
+Just before we were ready to visit Tlaxcala, while we were in the City
+of Mexico, we learned that Governor Cahuantzi was there, on business.
+We thought it best to call upon him, explaining our proposed work and
+asking his interest. So to the Hotel Sanz, where he always stops when in
+the Capital, we went. We called twice without finding him and our third
+call appeared to be as unsuccessful, but just as we were leaving,
+resolved not to try again, we met the governor alighting from his
+carriage at the door. Intercepting him, we asked a moment's interview,
+which was granted, though with ill grace. It was plain that he was sadly
+out of humor. Apologizing to him for our intrusion at so late an hour
+and so immediately after his return to his hotel, we told him of our
+projected visit, described the measurements, photographs and other data
+we were gathering, reminding him that two years earlier he had heard our
+plans and promised his assistance. In a somewhat gentler mood, he told
+us we might visit Tlaxcala and that he would aid us, but he must have a
+little time "for preparing the soil;" that all his people were indians,
+and that our work would necessarily be considered with suspicion. Upon
+our asking him how much time would be needed "to prepare the soil," we
+received no definite reply. He, himself, planned to leave for home the
+following morning, Friday; so we suggested that we would go first to
+Puebla, and reach his capital on Monday. He plainly considered this
+somewhat hasty, but grunted his assent, and we left him, somewhat
+surprised at his unusual gruffness and lack of interest.
+
+Early Monday morning, we appeared upon the scene. After breakfast we
+betook ourselves to the state palace; the governor was already in
+his reception room, but, instead of being ushered promptly into his
+presence, as had always happened in our previous visits, we were left
+to sit two hours in the outer office. Finally, on our displaying some
+impatience, a message was again taken to his Excellency, and a few
+minutes later, the _jefe politico_ of the district bustled past us into
+the carefully guarded reception chamber. He did not long remain there,
+and, on coming out into the office where we were waiting, brusquely
+asked, "Are you the persons who want to measure heads? Well, they are
+waiting for you out there in the corridor; why don't you go to work?"
+Seizing our instruments, blanks and camera, we hurried to the corridor
+and began operations. Three or four were measured in quick succession;
+then, when I cried, "_Otro_" (another), the _jefe's_ eyes began
+to bulge. That one measured, and another called for, he seemed
+half-distracted; desperation seized him; as he faintly repeated "_Otro_"
+he looked wildly around in search of subjects and it was plain that
+he had not begun to realize what demands we planned to make upon him.
+Before the noonday rest, we had measured fourteen subjects, but the
+_jefe's_ personal interest had ceased, and he had completely disappeared
+from the scene of action. When we returned at three o'clock to resume
+work, only the guards were there to help us. One and another subject,
+invited to be measured, showed no interest in advancing science. So, Mr.
+Wilson went to see the _jefe_ in his office; the old man was furious and
+actually ran out, with the statement that he had plenty of his own work
+to do. When this scene had been reported, it in no wise increased the
+readiness of subjects to undergo the operation. Finding that we were
+accomplishing nothing, we decided upon desperate measures. Going to the
+office of the governor's private secretary, we insisted on his telling
+the chief executive that we were losing time, that no one was assisting
+us, that subjects were obdurate and stubborn, and that something must
+be promptly done. We waited but a few minutes. The fiat went forth; the
+_jefe politico_ appeared, puffing and blowing, and wildly excited. He
+was closeted a moment with the governor. On his reappearance, we greeted
+him cordially, and told him that the people present would not be
+measured and indicated one particularly stubborn subject, who was dealt
+with, promptly, and without gloves. The _jefe_ remained long enough to
+reestablish order, though, under his breath, he muttered curses and
+threats, and expressed his feeling to any official, who chanced to pass.
+He said the business was driving him clean crazy; that he was doing what
+he did, not for love of us, but from respect to the orders of his chief.
+Having set the ball to rolling, he left us and there were no more
+delays.
+
+When the labor of the day was over, we stopped at the _jefe's_ office
+to inform him that we should continue work the following day, and
+emphasized the fact that we wished one hundred cases, and, as yet, had
+less than half that number. We suggested that systematic arrangements
+would not only facilitate _our_ labor, but would lessen his own task.
+The result was evident; on the following day delegations, ordered by the
+_jefe_, and consisting of from six to a dozen persons each, began to
+come in from the outlying villages. This made our work easy, indeed. In
+one respect, Tlaxcala differs from all the other Mexican states with
+which we are acquainted. Most of the people live in very little towns,
+which cluster around the larger places. Thus, around the capital city,
+Tlaxcala, there are some seventeen of these small pueblos.
+
+Working at the palace, we had secured almost no women for measurement.
+Asking the advice of the _cura_, in the matter, he recommended that we
+should go to some one of the neighboring indian villages; that he would
+give us a letter to the _juez_ and that, thus, we would secure our
+subjects easily. He suggested San Estevan and wrote the promised letter
+to the _juez_ of that village. San Estevan is a pretty village, near the
+summit of some low gray hills of tufa, behind which rises a background
+of higher hills of the same material. The slope is terraced for the
+houses, which are all built of adobe bricks and have flat roofs. The
+"three part house," of the ancient Aztec type--god-house, kitchen, and
+granary--is better shown in this state than almost any other part of the
+Republic. The granary, or _cuezcomate_, is particularly characteristic.
+It is built of clay, in the form of a great vase or urn, open at the
+top, above which is built a little thatch to shed rain and to protect
+the contents. The _cuezcomate_ is often ten feet high. One or more of
+them is found in connection with every house.
+
+[Illustration: HOUSE AND CUEZCOMATE; LOS REYES]
+
+The _juez_ lived in a comfortable house of two rooms, half of which is
+used at present for the boy's school, of which his son is teacher. He
+received us graciously, and was pleased to receive a letter from the
+_padre_, though he stated it was not a government order and carried no
+actual authority; that if the women cared to be measured, well and good,
+but if not, no force could be employed. The appearance of the camera,
+however, interested him; plainly, he desired to have a family group
+photographed; he hinted at this so broadly that, taking him to one side,
+I whispered that it was, of course, impossible to take family groups
+for everyone, but if we secured the twenty-five women without delay,
+notwithstanding the fact that we had no more authoritative document than
+a _cura's_ letter, the group should be taken. The effect was immediate.
+The police were summoned and sent through the village to bring in women
+for measurement and naught was said about their right of refusal.
+
+When, toward evening, we returned from San Estevan, tired but quite
+satisfied with the day's work, we found a delegation of more than a
+dozen men waiting for us in the _plaza_. We did not need so large a
+number to complete our work, and it was nearly dark; we would gladly
+have dismissed them and run our chances of securing others the next
+day. But neither they nor the _jefe politico_ were to be bluffed. So we
+marched into the corridor, lighted candles and got to work. When those
+lacking to make our full hundred had been measured, we proposed to let
+the others go, but they were not to be thus got rid of, and insisted
+on being measured as such were the orders of the governor. We were not
+through until long after dark, and we were ravenously hungry.
+
+This delegation was one of the most attractive, clean, and intelligent
+with whom we had dealt. It was from Los Reyes, a little town at a
+distance of about half a league. It was headed by the village _juez_.
+After we had completed the measuring, they stood, shifting their
+_sombreros_ from hand to hand and plainly wishing to say something
+further; finally, mustering courage, the _juez_ and _secretario_
+advanced and stated that it was the town's desire to have a picture
+taken of the church, with the saint and people of the village before
+the door. Would it be possible for us to make the picture and on what
+conditions? We replied that time was precious and that the trip, if it
+involved a loss of time, was quite impossible; but if they supplied
+carriers to take the instruments to and from their village, and had all
+ready before seven in the morning, we would make it. Delighted, the
+officials then inquired what we would wish for breakfast; we answered
+French bread and red wine. When we looked out of our window, a little
+before seven, we saw our party ready and waiting. The _juez_, the
+_secretario_, and two others made the company. A basket, carefully
+carried by one, was suspected to contain our breakfast. The burdens were
+shouldered, and we started out in the cool, fresh morning air, for the
+village, where we arrived in about half an hour. It is a town of less
+than one hundred people, situated upon a little mountain, hidden, to one
+looking from Tlaxcala, by intervening hills. We were received in the
+town-house, which is a portion of the old church building; mass was in
+progress, and we told those who received us, that we had no wish to
+interfere with their religious duties; that those who wished, might go
+to service. Most went, but two or three were left as a committee of
+entertainment. They took us to a view-point from which there was a
+magnificent valley to be seen. And, here, we found one of the finest
+echoes possible. Rockets were exploded and the noise was echoed
+from hill to hill around the great amphitheatre; it was like a long
+reverberation of thunder, but it sank and swelled, sank and swelled,
+repeatedly, until it seemed that it would never stop. Service over, the
+procession formed, and the _santito_ was brought out before the church.
+The townspeople were arranged and the view taken. We were then invited
+in to breakfast, which was fine. There were plenty of French rolls and
+the red wine brought from town, and a great heap of _enchiladas_, fresh
+lettuce and eggs. After eating, we expressed a wish to hear the village
+drum, a great _huehuetl_. This musical instrument is a reminder of the
+olden times; it is not found everywhere, but a number of indian towns
+possess one, which is kept to be played on festal occasions. The one as
+Los Reyes was some three feet or so in height, a hollow cylinder of wood
+with a membrane stretched across the upper end; it was painted blue.
+A chair of state was placed for me in the little _patio_. After I was
+seated the three musicians took their places,--one played the great
+_huehuetl_, a second beat the _tambour_ or ordinary drum, the third
+performed upon the _chirimiya_, a shrill wooden pipe. It was the first
+time we had really heard a _huehuetl_. The player used two sticks with
+padded heads, beating with great force in excellent time. The booming of
+the instruments was audible to a great distance. The whole village had
+gathered, and in a momentary lull in the music, I told the people of the
+ancient use of the _huehuetl_; that Bernal Diaz, in his history of the
+Conquest of Mexico, tells us what feelings filled the hearts of the
+Spaniards, when they heard the great _huehuetl_, in the temple of the
+ancient city of Tenochtitlan; then it was chiefly beaten when human
+victims were being sacrificed to the gods, and the soldiers knew that
+some fellow-countryman, or a Tlaxcalan ally, was dying. Never have I
+given a public lecture, that was listened to with more attention or
+greater appreciation.
+
+[Illustration: THE VILLAGE AND ITS SAINT; LOS REYES]
+
+[Illustration: CUEZCOMATE, OR GRANARY; SAN NICOLAS PANOTLA]
+
+The day we measured women at San Estevan, we found an indian mason
+there at work, whom we had measured at Tlaxcala, and with whom, on one
+occasion, we had some conversation. He was disgusted at the conduct of
+the women while undergoing measurement, and at evening said, "Sir, it is
+a pity for you to waste your time in a town like this; these people are
+little better than animals; in my town there is great enthusiasm over
+your work, and by going there you might do your will and find people
+with minds, not beasts." There was really no work left to be done, but
+we desired to see a town where there was great enthusiasm over our
+investigations. Hence, we arranged with Ignacio Cempoalteca to visit his
+pueblo of San Nicolas Panotla. Accordingly, on the afternoon of the day
+when we visited Los Reyes, we went across the valley to Panotla, Ignacio
+and an older brother, Jose, met us at the hotel, where--excusing
+himself on account of the mason-work at San Estevan, which could not
+wait--Ignacio left us, assuring us that Jose would do everything for us.
+This was quite true, and we found Panotla all that it had been painted.
+
+Jose led us directly to their home. The walls were well built of stone
+set in adobe mortar; they were smoothly coated with a snowy plaster; the
+supporting walls of the little terrace on which the house was built were
+also well constructed and it was with some pride that Jose told us that
+the work had all been done by himself and Ignacio. Jose is married and
+has a wife and three children; Ignacio is a bachelor; a younger
+brother, Carmen, is also unmarried--he has taught himself free-hand and
+architectural drawing and showed us examples of his work. The old father
+and mother own the home and received us hospitably. Jose guided us
+through the village, where we photographed whatever took our fancy,
+entered houses, examined all that interested us, and really found
+enthusiasm for our work everywhere. Before the churchyard stands a
+quaint old cross of stone, dated 1728, upon which are represented all
+the symbols of Christ's passion; a long inscription in Aztec is cut into
+the base. Close by the church, we visited the boy's school, where
+we found some forty dark-skinned, black-eyed, youngsters, whose
+mother-speech is Aztec. We proposed to photograph them, so they were
+grouped outside the schoolhouse, but not until a pair of national flags
+and the portrait of the governor, Prospero Cahuantzi, were fixed upon
+the background wall.
+
+[Illustration: THE ANCIENT DRUM--HUEHUETL; LOS REYES]
+
+[Illustration: FIESTA AT CHOLULA; DAY OF SAN ANTONIO ABAD]
+
+After the picture had been taken, we told the _maestro_ we would like
+to hear the boys sing. It was plain he did not consider singing their
+strong forte, but our wishes were met. One boy, standing, wielded the
+baton, beating time. When the singing was done with, the _maestro_
+said he would like us to see the class in arithmetic, if we had time.
+Accordingly fourteen or fifteen boys, from ten to fourteen years of
+age, stepped out upon the dirt floor; we were told that they could
+work examples in percentage, interest, bonds and mortgages, discount,
+alligation--which did we prefer? Truth to say, it was so long since we
+had studied alligation, that we had really forgotten what it was, and
+so expressed a preference for it. "Very good, sir," said the _maestro_.
+"Will you not propound a problem?" From this quandary we escaped
+by stating that we could not think of doing so; that we had every
+confidence in his fairness and that he had better give it, as the boys
+were more accustomed to him. We have visited many classes of the same
+grade and age in the United States and have never seen one that would
+surpass them in quickness, accuracy, and clearness of explanation. After
+our trip through San Nicolas Panotla, Jose took us back to his house,
+where, meantime, a, dinner had been made ready.
+
+
+
+Weeks later, we learned the probable reason of the governor's gruffness,
+which was in such marked contrast to his previous treatment, that it
+puzzled us considerably. At about the time of our visit, a number of
+wealthy _hacienderos,_ of the State of Tlaxcala, had been arrested for
+counterfeiting silver money. They were men whose _magu�y_ fields brought
+them enormous incomes; one would suppose their legitimate sources of
+wealth would have contented them! But such was not the case, and they
+had gone into wholesale counterfeiting. The fraudulent coin had long
+been known and diligent efforts were made to find the criminals, efforts
+at last crowned with success. The guilt was fixed without a doubt, the
+parties were arrested, tried, and sentenced. Every attempt was made to
+secure their pardon, in vain. Governor Cahuantzi is an old friend of
+President Diaz, believed to have great influence with him. Men of
+wealth, interested in the release and pardon of the criminals, promised
+Cahuantzi ten thousand dollars in case of his successful intercession
+with the President in the matter. These details, not generally known, we
+received from a source respectable and trustworthy, and we believe them
+true. Anxious to gain the reward, and probably feeling certain of his
+influence with Diaz, the old man made the journey to Mexico. It was the
+very time when we called upon him. When we had our interview, he had
+just seen the President, and it is hinted that, not only did Don
+Porfirio refuse to pardon the counterfeiters, but showed a dangerous
+inclination to investigate the reason of the indian governor's
+intervention. No wonder that the old man was gruff and surly to his
+visitors, after the loss of ten thousand dollars which he had looked
+upon as certain, and with uncertainty as to the final outcome of his
+unlucky business.
+
+[Illustration: TLAXCALAN SCHOOLBOYS; SAN NICOLAS PANOTLA]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX
+
+ZAMORA AND THE ONCE PUEBLOS
+
+(1898)
+
+
+The morning train from Guadalajara brought us to Negrete at about two
+in the afternoon, and we had soon mounted to the top of the clumsy old
+coach, which was dragged by six horses. The road to Zamora runs through
+a rich farming district. For the greater part of the distance the road
+is level and passes amidst great _haciendas_. The corn crop had been
+abundant and carts were constantly coming and going from and to the
+fields. These carts were rectangular, with side walls some four or five
+feet in height, made of corn-stalks set close together and upright.
+All were drawn by oxen. Most of the carts had a light cross, made of
+corn-stalks, set at the front end, to protect the load from adverse
+influences. Great numbers of men, dressed in leather trousers drawn over
+their cotton drawers, in single file lined past us, with great
+baskets full of corn strapped on their backs. Here and there, in the
+corn-fields, groups of such men were cutting the ripened ears from the
+plants.
+
+We now and then met groups of men bringing great timbers from the
+mountains fifty or sixty miles away. These timbers were many feet in
+length and trimmed to a foot square; from four to six made a load. The
+cart upon which they were carried consisted of a pair of wheels and an
+axle; one end of the timbers was attached to this, and the other was
+fastened to the yoke of oxen. It was rare that we met with a single
+timber cart, as four or five usually went together. The drivers who were
+in charge of them were pure Tarascans.
+
+For a considerable distance a fine slope rose to our left, strewn
+with loose rock masses, and covered with a growth which was chiefly
+_pitahaya_, some of the plants attaining the size of grown trees. Many
+of them presented an appearance which we had not seen elsewhere--the
+tips and upper part of the upright branches being as white as if
+intentionally whitewashed; the simple explanation of this strange
+appearance was that the branches in question had served as buzzards'
+roosts. Our journey of twenty-five miles was made with two relays of
+horses. After perhaps three hours' riding, we reached the Zamora River,
+which we followed for some distance. From the time when we began to
+follow this stream, our road was almost a dead level. At many places
+along the river, we saw a peculiar style of irrigation machine, a great
+wooden scoop or spoon with long handle swung between supporting poles.
+The instrument was worked by a single man and scooped up water from the
+river, throwing it upon the higher land and into canals which carried it
+through the fields. Sometimes two of these scoops were supported side by
+side upon a single frame, and were worked in unison by two persons. At
+the only town of any consequence upon the road, we found numbers of
+interesting hot springs which might really be called geysers. They were
+scattered at intervals over the flat mud plain for a distance of a half
+mile or more. We could see jets of steam of more or less vigor rising
+from a score or so at a time. At some of these the water really boiled,
+and we saw it bubbling and tossing to a height of a foot or so above the
+margin of the spring. Groups of women, laughing and talking or singing
+snatches of songs, were washing clothes at several of these hot springs,
+and the garments were spread out over the bushes and trees to dry. At
+one little geyser, bubbling up in the very middle of the road, as we
+passed we saw a boy pelting the water with stones and mud in order to
+make it mad and see it spout. The plain was sprinkled here and there
+with thickets of acacia and mesquite. In the early evening the breeze
+came loaded with the fragrance of the golden balls of the acacia. There
+was bright moonlight, and we could see the country, even after sunset.
+The latter portion of the journey was through low swampy ground, much of
+the time over causeways.
+
+There are few towns in central Mexico, not on a railroad, to be compared
+with Zamora. It is large, clean, well built, and presents an air of
+unusual comfort. The main _plaza_ is large, and finely planted with
+palms, orange-trees, roses and flowering shrubs. The orange-trees
+were in full bloom and the air was heavy with their odor. The town is
+electric-lighted and has a good system of waterworks. The great church,
+with two slender towers, fills up the whole of one side of the _plaza_,
+while the other three are occupied with business houses. The amount of
+life in the town at night surprised us. Even after ten o'clock, many
+were on the streets, and the _dulce_ stands, _cafe_ tables and _loto_
+hall were doing a large business. Few towns in Mexico are so completely
+under priestly influence, but few again appear as prosperous,
+progressive, and well-behaved. Two distinct types of houses
+predominate, the older and the newer. The old style house is such as
+is characteristic of many other Tarascan towns, but is here more
+picturesquely developed than in most places. The low-sloped,
+heavily-tiled roof projects far over the street and is supported below
+by projecting timbers, which are trimmed at the end to give a pleasing
+finish. So far do these roofs project over the sidewalk that the water
+is thrown into the middle of the street and the footpath below is well
+sheltered. The new style of house, which is required by the recent laws,
+has an almost flat roof which ends squarely at the sidewalk, and from
+which long tin pipes project to throw the water into the streets. Here,
+as so frequently, the old fashion is at once more comfortable and more
+artistic.
+
+We spent the morning in efforts to secure horses, but finally secured a
+man, Don Nabor, who agreed to accompany us with five animals. The party
+consisted of myself, my interpreter, my plaster-worker, and Don Nabor.
+Each of us was mounted, and a fifth horse carried the plaster and other
+luggage. Leaving at noon, we took the long road past Jacona, a little
+town famous for its fruit. Having passed there, after a long journey, we
+looked down from the height almost directly upon the place whence we
+had started. The scene was of unusual beauty--the wide-spreading, flat
+valley, with its fields of wheat and clustered trees, presented a mass
+of rich green coloring, in the midst of which stood the pretty
+city. After a long climb, we descended into a valley in which lies
+Tangancicuaro, a large town with a _plaza_ full of fine, great trees,
+where we ate at a quaint little _meson_. From here we pushed on to
+Chilchota, the head town of the Once Pueblos. From the crest, just above
+the town, we looked down upon a level valley, green with new wheat.
+Entering the town a little after five, we rode up to the _meson_ of
+San Francisco, near the little _plaza_. It was with difficulty that we
+secured a room containing a single bed, with mattress, and two mats.
+There was nothing at all to eat at the _meson_, but on strolling out to
+the _plaza_ we found some Indian women selling _atole_ and bread.
+With this we were compelled to be content until morning, paying seven
+_centavos_ for our four suppers. Hunting up the _presidente_ of the
+town, we found him sitting, with his court, on benches in the _plaza_.
+He was a pleasant, rather dressy young man, but at once took interest in
+our work, and told us that Huancito was the best town for our bust work,
+as the population there is primitive and purely indian.
+
+The Once Pueblos--eleven towns--are famous through this portion of
+the Republic. Several of them are purely indian; Chilchota is largely
+_mestizo_. The towns lie in a long line on the side of the little
+valley, at the foot of the bordering hills. Between some, spaces of
+considerable extent intervene; others are so close together that, in
+riding through them, one sees no line of separation. All consist of
+adobe houses, of a rich brown color, roofed with tiles. Some of the
+churches are of considerable size, but are also built of brown adobe.
+The Once Pueblos are famous for their pottery, and in some of them
+almost every house has its little kiln or oven. Fruit is cultivated,
+and the houses are frequently embowered in trees; in many yards are
+bee-hives. The valley is abundantly watered with little streams of
+perfect clearness.
+
+The _presidente_ had insisted that the school teacher at Huancito would
+prove invaluable. He gave us a letter of introduction to him, and an
+order upon the authorities. We were at once given possession of the
+schoolhouse for our work, and I started out to find a subject. Almost
+the first person encountered was a young man of twenty-three years, who
+presented the pure Tarascan type. I at once told him that he was the
+very man we wanted; that we planned to make a picture of him in plaster;
+at the same time, I described the method of work, and while talking,
+holding him by the arm, drew him over toward the schoolhouse. Almost
+before he realized it, we were ready for the task. As he removed his
+shirt and prepared for the operation of oiling and the application of
+the plaster, he looked somewhat sombre. After seeing the work well
+begun, I stepped outside and sat in the portico until it should be
+done. The first piece of plaster had been applied, the subject had been
+turned, and was lying ready for the second application. At this moment,
+an indian maiden, with dishevelled hair, came rapidly running across
+the _plaza_ toward the schoolhouse. Rushing past me, she entered the
+school-room, and seeing the subject lying on the floor clasped her hands
+and cried, "Florencito! My Florencito, why wait here? Stay not with
+these cruel men; flee with me!" Seizing him by the hand, they dislodged
+the plaster from his shoulders and started for the door, but catching
+sight of me, cast a glance around, saw the open window, and leaping
+through it, dashed off home. Up to this time the local authorities had
+shown an interest in our work and a willingness to aid. Calling the
+chief of police, I bade him and the teacher seek our subject and bring
+him back for the completion of the operation. "But, sir," said the chief
+of police, "suppose he does not wish to come?" "Why are you chief of
+police?" was my reply. The teacher, who is himself a _mestizo_ and
+despises the poor indians in his charge, was loud in his complaints. He
+vigorously declared that what these people needed was a second Cortez,
+that they had never been properly conquered, and, with the chief of
+police, he started out for the new conquest. After an hour or more of
+waiting, we saw them reappear with Florencito. But humanity is ever
+loath to admit defeat. As he passed us, he grumbled that he saw no good
+reason for such a fuss, as he had simply gone to eat his breakfast.
+
+Having completed the work with this subject, we suggested that others
+should be brought, but met with a prompt refusal. The judge and the
+chief of police both declared that the people did not wish to have busts
+made, and that they would bring no more. In vain I suggested that a
+meeting of the townspeople should be called together in order that
+we might address them and explain the purpose of our visit. It was
+impossible to move the officials. Finally I told the judge that I should
+send a mounted messenger, who had accompanied us from the _presidente_,
+to Chilchota to report the failure of the town officials to do their
+duty. He promptly declared that he was going to Chilchota himself to
+see the _presidente_ in the matter. Sure enough, when my messenger was
+ready, he had made his preparations, and the two departed together to
+present the different sides of the question. Neither returned until
+we were through for the day. During the afternoon we secured two more
+subjects, and by nightfall had three good busts as the result of the
+day's labor. Then we faced new difficulties. Carriers could not be had
+for love nor money. What was wanted were three men, one to carry each
+bust back to Chilchota, where we planned to spend the night. Finally,
+after loss of time and temper, each of us shouldered a bust and rode
+back on horseback with our trophies.
+
+We soon discovered that the eleven towns were in a ferment of
+excitement. Most dreadful tales were rife with regard to us and our
+work. Some asserted that we cut off heads and hung them up to dry; that
+in drying, they turned white. Others reported that with knives, made for
+the purpose, we sliced off the ears of unfortunate indians, close to
+their heads. Still others reported that we had a frightful instrument
+which was fitted into the nose, and by means of which we tore strips
+of flesh and skin from the face of the subject. It was said, and quite
+likely truly, that they were arming in all the houses; that _machetes_,
+guns, pistols, and clubs were laid convenient to hand.
+
+The next day was Sunday, and we made no attempt to continue work. It was
+market-day, and indians from all the pueblos had gathered in the _plaza_
+to buy and sell. All were pure in blood and spoke Tarascan. Fruits,
+sugar-cane, corn, _tortillas, atole_, coffee, were the chief staples.
+Stocks of pottery were attractively displayed. Two characteristic wares
+are both pretty. Most typical, perhaps, is the black and green ware
+which is made into bowls, plates, mugs, and pitchers. The clay of which
+it is baked is local and dark brown in color; a white earth applied to
+this, on baking, gives rise to a rich metallic green glaze. Designs are
+painted upon this in black. This black and green ware goes far and
+wide, and everywhere is recognized as coming from the Once Pueblos. At
+Huancito and some other pueblos, they make little _canteras_ with a red
+ground and decorative designs in black and white. One thing, offered in
+the market, was new to us, dishes full of _ucuares_--long, irregular,
+swollen, dry, brown objects that looked like stewed worms with thick and
+fleshy skins. One _centavo_ bought far more than any person would be
+likely to eat; even after having been stewed in sugar, they were bitter,
+and had a foul smell that was most unpleasant; they appeared to be roots
+or tubers of some plant.
+
+Naturally, our work had attracted much attention in Chilchota. No one
+of the many dozen visitors who came to see us at the _meson_ was so
+profoundly impressed as a boy of fourteen, named Ignacio. Appearing
+early in the morning, he remained with us almost all the hours of the
+twenty-four. Thinking that the effect on the villagers might be good,
+I decided to ride in the afternoon through the pueblos. When the
+_presidente_ discovered my intention, he insisted upon supplying a
+mounted and armed escort, and at the same time gave me a general letter
+to the eleven towns, in which strict orders were given that my wishes
+should be respected, and dire threats made in case any one should show
+me aught but the greatest consideration. Ignacio accompanied me. Riding
+through the towns, we passed far enough beyond Huancito to see the most
+remote of the eleven pueblos. They are separated somewhat from the rest,
+and lie rather higher up in a bend of the valley. Everywhere I took some
+pains to talk with the people, to visit their houses, to examine their
+pottery, their bees and their growing crops, as I felt that such an
+interest would help us in our work. On our return, Ignacio told me that
+he should stay to dinner with us, as he much preferred to do so to going
+home. He also told me that it would be a great pity to lose the theatre,
+which was to take place that evening. Accordingly, after dinner was
+over, we went to see the play. I expected that at that season of the
+year it would be a _pastorela_--and in fact it had been so announced.
+It was, however, a true drama, and one of the
+funniest--unintentionally--imaginable. The stage was set in the middle
+of the _patio_ of a large house. The boy insisted that we would be late,
+and so we went at 7:15, although the bill announced the hour as 8. The
+spectators brought their own chairs with them. Except a few youngsters,
+no one arrived before 9, and the curtain at last rose at a quarter
+before eleven. Among the last to arrive was the _presidente_ and his
+party. He was resplendent in a cape of crimson velvet with brilliant
+yellow facings. Hardly was his party seated, when we were politely
+invited to sit with them. Three acts were rendered, and while waiting
+for the fourth, one of the party declared that there would be eleven
+more. This gave the _presidente_ an opportunity to relate an experience
+of his own. On one occasion, after watching a play from seven in the
+evening until four in the morning, the stage broke down; the management
+appeared and apologized regarding the accident, particularly, since some
+twenty acts were still to have been rendered. Our play, however, turned
+out to have had but eight acts, and one of these was omitted. When it
+should have been given, the whole troupe appeared upon the platform;
+the manager announced the reason why the act would not be given, but
+promised that on the following Sunday, in another play, an extra act
+should be inserted, in order that all might receive the full value of
+their money. Our play ended at one, when the audience dispersed.
+
+Needing but two more subjects, we looked about Chilchota the next day,
+hoping to find indians from the more remote villages, who might permit
+their busts to be made. Two excellent cases were found. The last was a
+man from Carapan, the most remote of the eleven towns. He was a man of
+forty years, whose father accompanied him, and both were for a long time
+dubious about the operation. Finally, however, consent was given and the
+bust was made. As he arose and dressed to go, I said, "Did I tell you
+the truth? Did the operation hurt you, or did it not? Was there a reason
+why you should not have your bust made?" He promptly answered, "Sir, you
+told me truth; the operation did not hurt me and there surely is no harm
+in it; but, sir, you can hardly believe what an excitement this work has
+caused in our town. Yesterday, in the market-place at Chilchota, there
+were more than twenty men from Carapan who carried weapons in their
+clothing. We had selected leaders and arranged signals, and at the first
+sign of an attack from your party, we were prepared to sell our lives
+dearly."
+
+It was a work of time to fill the moulds and pack the busts. Before
+we were ready to start upon our journey, it was half-past four in the
+afternoon. True wisdom would have suggested waiting until morning.
+Time, however, was precious, and I hoped to make Cheran that night;
+consequently, though against the advice of many, we started out, with
+eight leagues to go, over a road with a bad reputation, and at some
+points difficult to traverse. For a little distance, we followed the
+familiar trail down through the pueblos, but at Tanaquillo we turned
+up into the mountain. The ascent was steady until we reached the pass,
+through which an icy wind drove down upon us. We could hope to make the
+distance in six hours. At first we met many persons, all of whom warned
+us that we would be late in arriving, and recommended that we should
+stop at Rancho Seco. We had no intention of so doing, but knew that
+we must turn at that point into a new road. Between sunset and bright
+moonlight, there was an interval of darkness, and in that interval we
+must have passed the turning which led to Rancho Seco. At all events,
+we presently found ourselves entirely at a loss, wandering over a rocky
+hill covered with brush, amid which the trail had entirely disappeared.
+Retracing, as well as we could, our road, we finally found ourselves
+upon another trail which we followed until 9:30, when we met a little
+band of indians, the first whom we had seen for a long time. From them
+we found that we were not upon the road for Cheran, but at the edge of
+a slope at the bottom of which was a little indian town, Tanaco.
+Descending to it, we found a house where they agreed to shelter us for
+the night, and in the _tienda_ near by we bought hard bread and old
+cheese. We were sheltered in a substantially built room, into which the
+cold air did not penetrate. The indians with whom we were staying were
+unusually intelligent; a number of books, including a large dictionary,
+lay upon the table, and the men, who crowded in upon us, were anxious to
+learn the English words for common things. This was an experience which
+rarely happened to us in indian Mexico. The people, however, were not
+quite sure of our intentions, and Nabor said that when he went to water
+the horses, a committee of village folk waited upon him, asking whether
+we were the party of white men who had been skinning live indians over
+in the Once Pueblos.
+
+There were four leagues between us and Cheran, and many more beyond it
+to Patzcuaro, where we hoped to arrive the next night. Accordingly, we
+made an early start. Our host agreed to pilot us over the indistinct and
+tortuous bridle-path to the high-road. Many little mountains, almost
+artificially regular, arose in the otherwise plain country. As we rode
+along the trail we saw the church of Parracho far behind us in the
+distance. The latter part of the road, after Cheran was once in sight,
+seemed hopelessly long, but a little before ten o'clock we pulled up at
+the _meson_. We at once made arangements for food for ourselves and the
+horses, and determined to rest until noon. Our reputation had preceded
+us. I asked a child at the _meson_ to bring me a mug of water. When he
+brought it, I noticed that the mug was of the characteristic black and
+green ware of the Once Pueblos, but asked the boy where it was made.
+With a cunning look, he answered, "O yes, that comes from where you
+people have been,--up at the Once Pueblos." And yet we had not come over
+the road from the Once Pueblos, but by the main highway from Parracho.
+
+Rested and refreshed, we started at 12:30 for the long fourteen leagues
+of journey. We passed Pichataro, where the round paddles for Patzcuaro
+canoes are made, and where the applewood, so prized as material for
+spear-throwers, is procured. We passed Sabina, where the canoes
+themselves are hollowed out, miles from their launching place, to which
+they must be carried over mountains. Each town we passed made me more
+and more uneasy, as I knew that Nabor contemplated revolt. He did not
+like the idea of too long a journey for his horses. He wished to stop
+long before the goal that I had fixed. When we left the last of the
+important towns behind us, I felt for the first time secure. It was now
+dark, and we found the roads far worse than we remembered them. They
+were worn into deep gullies, into which our horses fell and over which
+they stumbled. Long before reaching Ajuno I felt convinced that we had
+missed the road, but we floundered on, and never was sight more welcome
+than the light of fires shining through the cane walls of the wretched
+huts of that miserable town. Here there was a final council regarding
+resting for the night. The whole party, except myself, considered Ajuno
+as a capital resting-place. All yielded, however, and we continued on
+our way. It was almost midnight when we rode up to the hotel, upon the
+_plaza_ in quaint old Patzcuaro. All were cross and tired; neither
+crossness nor weariness were helped when we were told that there was no
+room for us at the inn. We made such vigorous representations, however,
+that the doors were finally thrown open. An old store-house was cleaned
+out and supplied with decent beds, and a good supper was served.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X
+
+THE BOY WITH THE SMILE
+
+(1898)
+
+
+It is doubtful whether the common people of any country are so rarely
+surprised, or taken unaware, as those of Mexico. At a moment's notice,
+the commonest indian, who may have scarcely been outside of his own
+town in all his life, may start to go across the country. Astonishing
+incidents appear to create no more surprise in their minds than the
+ordinary affairs of every day. In January, 1898, we revisited Cholula.
+As we alighted from the street-car we noticed a boy, some fourteen years
+old, whose most striking characteristic was his smile. He wished to
+serve as guide, to show us the pyramid, the convents, the chapel of the
+natives. On assuring him that we knew far more about the lions of his
+town than he, he was in no wise abashed, but joined himself to us for
+the remainder of the day. He accompanied us to see the blessing of the
+animals in the great churchyard. He displayed an interesting knowledge
+of English, answering "yes" quite perfectly to every sort of question,
+and repeating the two words, which are well known the whole world over
+as American-English, on all conceivable occasions. When at evening he
+saw us safely on the street-car he left us with the same smile with
+which he had received us. On our next visit to Cholula much the same
+thing happened, but learning that we planned to stop at Cuauhtlantzinco
+on our way to Puebla, he stole a ride upon the car, for the sake of
+accompanying us. He was a rather handy boy, good-natured and anxious to
+please, so that, later in our journey, we hired him for several days and
+let him do what he could to help us.
+
+Much later, when at home planning the details of our next extensive
+journey, the thought struck us that it might be well to make the boy
+with the smile a member of our party. It seemed as if, in going into
+districts rarely visited by strangers, it would be well to have the
+party as largely Mexican as possible. If, however, the boy were to
+accompany us, it was necessary that he should first learn something of
+our work and needs, and perhaps of English. Accordingly, I decided to go
+to Cholula and bring the boy up to the States.
+
+The resolution was so hastily taken that there was no time to send word
+to the boy himself. Going straight to Cholula, I had some difficulty in
+finding his abode. I knew that the boy had no father, that his widowed
+mother had but one other child, a girl younger than the boy himself. I
+had once seen the mother and the little sister; I also knew the street
+on which they lived. Arriving at the street, however, no one apparently
+had ever heard of the boy. One and another through the whole length of
+the street was questioned, but none knew his name or recognized his
+description. Excepting that I knew that trait of Mexican character which
+assists acquaintances to seclusion, when they are sought by strangers, I
+should have despaired. As it was, I kept on asking, and finally, from a
+child who could hardly speak on account of youth, I discovered the house
+which I sought. It was a little hut set back behind a yard of growing
+corn. I had inquired at the houses on either side and at the house
+across the road, as also of a man working in the corn in the yard
+itself. But everyone had been profoundly ignorant of the boy's
+existence. Walking up to the house, I found the door open, and the
+mother and the little girl within. The moment the woman saw me, she
+said, "_Que milagro, Se�or_!" (What a miracle, sir!) and rising, gave me
+a warm embrace. The little girl did the same. "And where is Manuel?" I
+inquired. "Ah, sir, he has gone to Puebla on an errand for a gentleman;
+but he will be back on the street-car at half-past ten. Pray wait, sir,
+till he comes."
+
+The house consisted, like most of its class, of a single room. The walls
+were built of sun-dried bricks of adobe. Entrance was by a single door.
+There were no windows. The floor was clay. The flat roof was scarcely
+six feet above the floor. The furniture, though ample, was scanty. A
+little earthen brazier for heating and cooking, a stone _metate_, a
+rubbing-stone for grinding corn-meal, a table heaped with bundles and
+boxes containing the family clothing, and a chair were all. There were
+no beds, not even the mats which so frequently, among the poor of
+Mexico, take their place. Several pictures of saints and of the virgin
+were pinned against the wall, and there were signs of tapers which had
+been burned before them. A bird or two in wooden cages, a rooster and a
+little dog lived in the house with the family.
+
+After answering various questions from the good woman and the little
+girl, I finally stated that I proposed to take Manuel with me to my
+country. He would stay with me there for six months, after which he
+would come back and accompany me for three months longer on a journey
+into southern Mexico. "If I have your consent," I said, "we leave
+to-day." Immediately the woman answered, "Sir, it is for you to say."
+Just then, however, the little girl, Dolores, began to cry. "Tut, tut,
+Dolores," said I, "I am sure you want Manuel to go away and visit a
+strange country and have a fine time; and think of the pictures that
+he can bring you to show what he has seen. And more than that, it is
+already half-past ten, and you shall go down tothe street-car to meet
+him, and tell him that he must come straight home, for fear that he will
+loiter on the way; but do not tell him I am here, nor say anything about
+his going away, for we wish to surprise him." Drying her eyes, and
+smiling almost as the boy himself, Dolores started to run to the
+street-car line, and presently fetched Manuel home in triumph. As he
+entered and saw me, he said, "_Que milagro, Se�or_" and kissed my hand.
+Having asked, as Mexican politeness requires, a variety of questions
+about his welfare, I finally said, "Well, Manuel, how would you like to
+go to Puebla with me for the day?" "Sir, it is for you to say." "Very
+good," said I. "And if I should conclude that it was best to take you to
+Mexico for a few days, what would you say to that?" "I am entirely in
+your hands, sir," he replied, "to do your orders." "Well," said I,
+"suppose I took you to my own country and kept you there for six
+months?" and the boy replied, "Sir, you are my owner; it is for you
+to command." "Very well," said I, "get ready, and we will go on the
+street-car, at twelve o'clock, to Puebla."
+
+[Illustration: THE CROSS; SAN NICOLAS PANOTLA]
+
+[Illustration: THE BOY WITH THE SMILE]
+
+Telling his mother that she should put together the few articles of
+which there might be need, we started for the noonday car. As we left,
+I suggested that she and the little girl come to the city, during the
+afternoon or evening, to bid the boy good-bye, as we should leave on an
+early train the following morning. They came at nightfall. She had his
+small possessions tied up in a carrying cloth, and her mind was stored
+with bits of excellent advice and admonition as to his conduct and
+behaviour in his new surroundings. After Dolores and her brother had
+given each other a, farewell embrace, the mother said a few words to the
+boy, who knelt upon the floor of the room and crossed his hands upon
+his breast. The mother then gave him her parting blessing, and sent him
+forth into the outside world.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI
+
+IN THE MIXTECA ALTA
+
+(1898)
+
+
+Of all railroad cities in the Republic, Oaxaca is the most completely
+indian. It is the capital of a state the population of which is
+nine-tenths of native blood. Fifteen native languages are spoken in the
+state to-day. While some of these are related to each other, they are
+distinct languages, not dialects, even those which are related being as
+unlike as the French, Italian, and Spanish. The indians commonly seen on
+the city streets are Zapotecs or Mixtecs, but at times Mixes come from
+their distant mountain homes with burdens on their backs, or parties
+of Tehuantepecanas attract attention, by their fine forms and striking
+dress, as they walk through the streets. The market is crowded, even
+late in the day; ox-carts from the indian towns for miles around are
+constantly seen in the streets. Most of the sellers in the market are
+indians; they bring fruits and vegetables, dried fish from the Pacific,
+_j�caras_ and strainers of gourds, beautifully painted and polished
+gourds from Ocotopec, honey, sugar--both the crude brown and the refined
+yellow cakes--and pottery. The indian pottery here sold is famous. Three
+kinds of wares are well known--a dull plain red, an unglazed but highly
+polished black, and a brilliant glazed green. The black ware is made
+into useful vessels, and also into a variety of toys, chiefly whistles
+and bells. Pottery would seem to be one of the least suitable materials
+for bells. Here, however, bells of pottery in many shapes are
+found--little bells, with handles like the upper part of a human figure;
+larger bells, with curious flat handles set transversely; others, still
+larger, like cow-bells in size and tone, and curious cross-shaped bells,
+really a group of four united. Among the whistles some are made into the
+shape of animals and birds and curious human figures; among the latter,
+some closely resemble ancient whistles from the prehistoric graves. This
+black ware is made at Coyotepec, and when the objects are first taken
+from the kiln they are almost white; before they are cold, they
+are exposed to dense smoke, and thus assume their black color. The
+brilliantly glazed green ware is the most attractive. Vessels made from
+it are thin, and, in the parts which are unglazed, resemble common
+flower-pot ware. The larger portion of their surfaces, however, is
+covered with a rich, thick, emerald-green glaze. Cups, bowls, saucers,
+plates, sugar-bowls, tea-pots, flasks, and censers are among the forms
+commonly made in this ware. The shapes are often graceful and the
+prices low. Most beautiful, however, and relatively expensive, are the
+miniature vessels made in this ware--scarcely an inch in height, but
+formed with the greatest care, and in such variety of dainty forms that
+one may seek some time to duplicate a piece which he has found; these
+little pieces are completely covered with the rich green glaze both
+outside and inside.
+
+Our plan of journey for the year was first to make an expedition from
+Oaxaca to the north-west, into the Mixteca Alta; returning to Oaxaca,
+to strike eastward by way of Mitla, and the land of the Mixes, to
+Tehuantepec, from which place we should make a brief trip to the Juaves;
+returning to Tehuantepec, we should take the high road, by way of San
+Carlos, back to Oaxaca. Our first duty in the city of Oaxaca was to
+procure letters and orders from the governor. No governor in Mexico more
+completely realizes his importance and dignity than Governor Gonzales of
+Oaxaca. It is ever difficult to secure an audience with him; appointment
+after appointment is made, only to be broken when the inquiring visitor
+presents himself, and has been kept waiting an undue length of time. We
+had been through the experience before, and therefore were not surprised
+that it required four visits, each of them appointed by the governor
+himself, before we really had our interview. Governor Gonzales, is,
+however, an excellent officer. While we were waiting for our letters,
+after having explained to him our errand and plan of procedure, we had
+the opportunity to see a somewhat unusual and interesting sight. Like
+all public buildings and better-grade houses in Mexican cities, the
+governor's palace is built about _patios_, or inner courts. A wide
+balcony surrounds the court at the level of the second story and upon
+it the rooms of that story open. Having given orders that our letters
+should be prepared, the governor excused himself for a few moments, as
+he said that certain of his local authorities were ordered to meet him.
+We were seated where we could watch the reception. As we had entered the
+palace we had been impressed by the great number of indians, carrying
+official staves, who were waiting near the door. We now found that they
+were official delegates from the different towns, and that they had been
+sent from their homes to give the governor New Year's greetings. Having
+carefully arrayed himself for the meeting, the governor took his
+position in the wide balcony already referred to, with two officials of
+the palace stationed near, one on either side. The Indians represented
+perhaps twenty-five different towns, the delegation from each town
+varying from three or four to fifteen or twenty persons. All were
+dressed in their cleanest garments, and all carried their long staves of
+office, most of which had ribbons of bright colors streaming from them.
+The secretary of the governor arranged these delegations in their order,
+and they were presented one by one to the chief executive. As each
+delegation was presented, its members scraped and bowed, and the
+_presidente_ and _secretario_ kissed the governor's hand. A word or two
+of greeting having been exchanged, the spokesman from the village made a
+speech, sometimes read from a written copy, after which he presented
+a bouquet of flowers, real or artificial. The governor received the
+bouquet with a bow, placed the flowers on a little table near by, or, if
+the gift were a large bouquet of real flowers, handed it to one of the
+attendants standing near, and then made a polite speech of response,
+emphasizing it with vigorous gestures and plainly expressive of much
+interest and earnestness. The delegation then took its leave, always
+bowing reverently, and each man kissing the governor's hand as he passed
+out. As he received this mark of respect, the governor would make a
+playful remark, or pat the persons on the head, or otherwise treat
+them as a father might his little children. Instantly the flowers were
+cleared away, the next delegation ushered in, and the same ceremony
+gone through with. Finally, all was ready for our leaving. The party
+consisted of five persons--myself, as leader, Mr. Lang, my American
+photographer, Don Anselmo, my Mexican plaster-worker, Manuel, and the
+_mozo_. All but the _mozo_ were mounted on horses, more or less good or
+bad. The _mozo_, Mariano, a Mixtec indian, went on foot, carrying the
+photographic outfit on his back, and our measuring-rod in his hand.
+It was well on in the afternoon before we started, and hardly were we
+outside the town, before Mr. Lang's horse showed signs of sickness. His
+suffering was plain, and every person we met volunteered the information
+that unless something was done promptly, we should have a dead horse on
+our hands. Going to a little shop on the roadside, where strong drinks
+were sold, we stopped, and after preparing a remedy with the help of a
+passing Indian, threw the horse down, wedged his mouth open, and gave
+him what seemed to be an unsavory draught. More than an hour was lost
+out of our already short afternoon by this veterinary practice, and long
+before we reached Etla, where we were compelled to pass the night, it
+was dark.
+
+Leaving Etla in the morning, looking down as we passed out from the city
+upon a wonderful group of mounds, we passed rather slowly through the
+town of Huitzo. Don Anselmo and I loitered, as we found the whole
+country to be rich in ancient relics, examples of which were to be found
+in almost every house. As the afternoon passed, we found that we were
+likely to be completely left by our companions, and were forced to
+hasten on. The latter part of the daylight ride was up a continuous, and
+at times steep, ascent. As the sun neared setting, we reached the summit
+and found ourselves close by the station of Las Sedas, the highest point
+upon the Mexican Southern Railway. We had there expected to overtake
+the others of our party, but found that they had hurried on. It was a
+serious question whether we should try to overtake them. It had been
+wisdom to have stayed the night where we were. In this uncertainty,
+we met an indian boy driving mules toward Oaxaca, who volunteered the
+information that he had met our companions, who were just ahead, and
+that we would soon overtake them. This decided us, and we started down
+the trail. A heavy wind was blowing, and the night air was cold and
+penetrating. In a few minutes we met a half-breed Mexican, who,
+accosting us at once, urged us to go no further. His manner was somewhat
+sinister and disagreeable. He warned us that, if we attempted to make
+the descent in the darkness, we would at least lame our animals. He
+asserted that our comrades were fully three leagues ahead when he had
+met them, and that we would never overtake them. He also hinted darkly
+as to other dangers of the road, if we should succeed in making the
+descent without breaking the legs of our horses. Refusing his invitation
+to stop with him for the night, we pressed onward, and as we did so, he
+called out derisively after us.
+
+The descent would not have been an easy one, even in the daytime, and
+in the gathering darkness there was really an element of danger in the
+journey. We left the following of the trail almost entirely to our
+animals. We were finally down the worst of the descent before night had
+actually set in. From here on, although the road varied but little from
+a level trail, we were obliged to go slowly, and it was with a feeling
+of true relief that, after floundering for a while in a brook in which
+our road seemed to lose itself, we heard ourselves called by name, from
+an indian hut situated a little way up the bank. As usual, the house
+consisted of a single room, of no great size, and was lightly built
+of cane. Two men, three women, a boy, and three little girls were the
+occupants. Our companions were already resting; their horses were
+unsaddled and were eating contentedly, and we were told that supper
+was being prepared for us. Entering the house, we found the women busy
+making _tortillas_, and fresh goat's meat, hanging from the rafters,
+gave promise of a substantial meal. When all was ready, we sat down to
+the finest of corn-cakes, beans, eggs, and tender kidmeat. We spread our
+blankets under a little shelter which stood in front of one side of the
+house. None of us slept well. It was very cold; dogs barked all night
+long; now and then a sudden outbreak of their barking, and curious
+signals and whistles, which were repeated in various parts of the
+mountain, gave us some uneasiness. At three o'clock in the morning, just
+as we were napping, Don Anselmo startled us by the statement that our
+mule was dead. In a moment, all was excitement. Mariano examined the
+animal and reiterated the statement. As for us, we were in the mood to
+care but little whether the mule was living or dead. Half frozen and
+very weary, our frame of mind was not a cheerful one. Just before
+daybreak we could stand the cold no longer, and gathering some dry wood,
+we started a fire and crowded around it. The report about the mule
+proved to be false, and when morning came, there was no sign that
+anything was the matter with him.
+
+It was nine o'clock before we started on our journey in the morning. We
+had three long hours of clambering up and down heavy slopes, and, much
+of the way, through a stream the bed of which was filled with slippery
+boulders and pebbles, over which the horses slipped and stumbled
+frightfully. Our horses slid down small cascades, but, when we came to
+larger ones, we had to mount the banks by ugly bits of road, descending
+below the falls. After much labor and weariness, we reached El Parian at
+noon. Having rested through the hotter portion of the day, we took the
+road again at two. We followed up the brook-bed to the point where
+another stream entered it, at an acute angle. Up this stream we turned,
+and after following it a little, struck suddenly up a steep hill, and
+then climbed on and on over a good road, cut in the limestone rock, up
+and up, until we reached the very summit. The vegetation here was a
+curious assemblage,--palms, cedars, oaks, and a mimosa-like tree, formed
+the chief types. The limestone rock upon the summit was curiously
+eroded, as if by rain rills. The masses presented all the appearance
+and detail of erosion shown by the great mountain mass of the country
+itself; looking at one of these little models, only a few feet across,
+and then gazing out upon the great tangle of mountain peaks around us,
+one could almost imagine that the one was the intentional reproduction
+of the other, in miniature. For a long time we followed the almost
+level summit; then a little climb and a slight descent brought us to
+Huaclilla. At the _meson_ we found real rooms and true beds, and decided
+to stay for the night. The supper was less attractive. A brief walk
+about the village brought to light two cases of small-pox, and, on
+returning to the _meson_, we were charmed to find a third one in the
+building itself. Still, we slept well, and were up betimes next morning.
+The country through which we were passing was Mariano's _pa�s_ (native
+land). Assuming that his knowledge was adequate, we left our _meson_
+early, with the intention of breakfasting at San Pedrito, where we were
+assured that everything was lovely; we were also told that it was but
+a short distance. The road thither was through a high open country,
+planted to wheat and oats and with some _magu�y_. The road was
+discouragingly long, but after at least three hours of constant riding,
+we reached precious San Pedrito, chiefly notable for the amount of
+_pulque_ drunk there. It was with the greatest difficulty that we
+succeeded in getting anything to eat; the breakfast was certainly worse
+than the supper of the preceding night. With the prevalence of _magu�y_
+as a cultivated plant, the appearance of the houses and other
+buildings changed, as all of them were thatched with the broad, long,
+sharp-pointed leaves of the famous plant. Everyone in the district
+carries _tinajas_, or little sacks woven from splints of palm. Here, for
+the first time, we noticed that many of these had decorated patterns
+worked in black splints on the lighter ground. The blackness of
+these splints is given by exposure to the smoke of burning pine.
+Carrying-straps, also made of palm, are used for adjusting these
+_tinajas_ to the back.
+
+From San Pedrito the road is over a soft rock, which produces, when
+worn, a white glaring trail. The country through which we passed was
+fertile. Everywhere were fields of grain, wheat, oats, and, as we were
+descending into the lower land, corn. The little watch-houses for
+guarding the newly-sown fields are a striking feature of the landscape.
+In the higher districts they were small, conical or dome-shaped
+structures, made of the leaves of the _magu�y_, and hardly large enough
+for a man to lie down in. Lower down, these were replaced by little
+rectangular huts, only a few feet across, with thatched roofs, the whole
+construction being raised on poles ten or twelve feet above the ground.
+It was scarcely more than noonday when we reached Nochixtlan, where
+the _jefe_ of the district lives. Telling him that we desired to visit
+Yodocono and Tilantongo, he wrote orders for us, and charged some
+indians of Tidaa to show us the road, so far as they were going. The
+country through which we passed was a continuation of that preceding
+Nochixtlan. The road was nearly level, with but slight ups and downs,
+until a little before we reached our destination, when we had an abrupt
+up-turn to Yodocono, a pretty town on the border of a little lake, which
+has but recently appeared, and which covers an area which a few years
+ago was occupied by cultivated fields. Our letter from the _jefe_
+introduced us to Don Macario Espinola, a _mestizo_, owner of the chief
+store in the village, who showed us gracious hospitality. We were guests
+of honor. The parlor was surrendered to our use; the chairs were placed
+in such a way that, when supplied with mattress, sheets, and blankets,
+they made capital beds. Our meals were good. Don Macario, on hearing
+the purpose of our visit, placed himself entirely at our disposition.
+Unfortunately, he gained the idea that the people whom we wanted for
+measurement and photography were old folk, and the most astonishing
+collection of aged men and women was summoned from every part of the
+village and surrounding neighborhood, and all had to be measured,
+although the measurements were afterwards discarded.
+
+[Illustration: YODOCONO]
+
+Leaving Yodocono at ten the following morning, we rode to Tilantongo.
+Though assured that the road was over a district as level as a floor,
+we found a good deal of up-hill riding. Tilantongo itself, with 2,266
+inhabitants, is located upon the further slope of a hill, and but few
+houses were in sight until we were actually in the town. The public
+buildings surrounded a small open space, in the centre of which is a
+stone sun-dial. One side of this little _plaza_ is occupied by the
+schoolhouse; the town-house and jail occupy the rear. The town is built
+upon a horseshoe-shaped, sloping ridge, and the church is at the edge
+of the town, at one of the very ends of the horseshoe. Riding to the
+town-house, we presented our documents to the _presidente_, and ordered
+dinner for ourselves and food for the horses. We had letters to the
+priest, but he was not in town. The schoolhouse was placed at our
+disposal, and we moved two long benches close to each other, side by
+side; rush mats were brought, and these we laid upon the benches, and
+upon the teacher's table, for beds. Mr. Lang and Don Anselmo took the
+table, Manuel and I the benches, and Mariano had the floor. The cold was
+so intense that none of us slept much. We were astonished, in the middle
+of the night, and at intervals in the early morning, say at two or four
+o'clock, to hear snatches of songs. At first, we imagined it might be
+some religious festival, but on inquiring, we found that it was nothing
+but bands of drunken indians making night hideous.
+
+We waited some time in the morning before beginning work, hoping that
+the _cura_ might come and assist us with his influence. Finally,
+wearying of delay, we explained to the _presidente_ the work we planned
+to do. We told him we must have subjects for measurement, photographing
+and modeling. He showed no great enthusiasm in the matter. One and
+another came to be measured, if they chose, but a number entirely
+refused. It was plain that something must be done. Quitting my work, I
+sent orders for the _presidente_ to appear, and, after an intolerable
+delay, he presented himself. I told him that we were losing time; that
+subjects were not presenting themselves; that some of those who did
+present themselves refused to be measured; that I wished a _mozo_ at
+once to carry a report from me to the _jefe_ that my wishes were not
+regarded by the authorities, and that his orders had no influence; that
+the _mozo_ must be ready at once, as there was no time to lose, and we
+should shortly leave his town without accomplishing our work. The effect
+was instantaneous. The official air of arrogance disappeared; he replied
+quiet humbly that subjects should be at once supplied, as rapidly as
+they could be brought in. I replied, "Here are two persons now who have
+refused; why wait while others shall be brought?" The fiat went forth,
+the two obdurate and not good-humored victims were marched up. As I
+measured them, they whispered to me that the _presidente_ himself
+had not been measured, and begged that he be ordered to undergo the
+operation. The request was reasonable, and when they were through, they
+waited to see what would happen. Great was their delight when, turning
+to the chief man of the town, I said, "It is best for you to be measured
+next. It will set a good example to the rest," and without a word,
+although I knew that he had stated that he would not be measured, he
+stepped under the rod. From then on there was no lack of material. Our
+subjects were measured, photographed and modeled as rapidly as we could
+do the work. At noon the priest had come. As he passed where we were
+working, he gave us an extremely distant greeting and rode on up to the
+_curato_. From his castle he sent immediate complaint because our horses
+had been put into his stable without his permission. I went to the good
+man's house and found him hearing confessions. Leaving with him the
+letters from the archbishop and the _jefe_, I returned to my work,
+leaving word that the horses would have to stay where they were, as
+there was no other suitable place for their keeping. After a hard day's
+work, the night started very cold, and we hurried to bed early. All were
+sleeping, but myself, when a rap came at the door. It was a message from
+the _cura_, begging us to come to the _curato_, where we would be more
+comfortable. Sending back a word of thanks, I stated that we would be
+there for the following night.
+
+[Illustration: MIXTEC HOUSES; TILANTONGO]
+
+The _cura_ had been away from home for several days. The result was
+that, on his return, his parishioners turned out in force to greet him,
+and hardly was he housed, when a procession bearing gifts marched to the
+_curato_. In front went one bearing flowers. Those who followed carried
+some kind of food,--great pieces of meat, fowls, eggs, corn, chilis,
+and other supplies. The following morning we were awakened by a great
+explosion of fire-crackers and rockets, and by pealing bells, announcing
+the early mass. After his religious duties were performed, the _padre_
+came down to the _plaza_ to watch our work and use his influence in our
+behalf. When it was dinner-time, he invited us to go with him to that
+meal. We had thought that the donation party we had witnessed was a
+generous one; after that dinner, we had no doubt of the matter. Hardly
+had we disposed of the many good things on the table when the _padre_
+took us to a large room, the parish schoolhouse, and showed us the
+arrangements he had made for our comfort. Four beds, descending in grade
+of comfort from the one for myself to the one for Manuel, were shown us.
+Never was a party happier to move from one set of quarters to another.
+
+Called away the next morning by his religious duties, the priest left
+us in charge of house and household. The work went merrily on in the
+_plaza_. We quickly found, however, that the town was getting into a
+condition of intoxication, and long before noon every person in
+the place was drunk. At noon we were waited upon by a committee,
+representing the town, who informed us that they appreciated the lofty
+honor which was conferred on the place by our presence, and stated that,
+realizing that we had brought with us letters from the President of the
+Republic and from the Archbishop of the diocese, they desired not to be
+lacking in the respect due to such distinguished visitors. Accordingly,
+they said, they had arranged for the brass band to discourse sweet music
+for us, while we ate our dinner. No sooner was the statement made, than
+preparations were begun. The band stood around us in a semi-circle,
+chiefly notable for its unsteadiness on its legs, and regaled us with a
+series of most doleful pieces. When word came that dinner was ready
+at the _curato_, the band accompanied us to our stopping-place. The
+bandmaster announced his intention of personally serving us at the
+table. At the same time orders were given that the musicians, standing
+without, should continue to play pieces throughout the repast.
+
+[Illustration:]
+
+[Illustration:]
+
+The last day of our stay at Tilantongo, the _padre_ stated that it must
+be interesting to see the way in which a parish priest, returning from a
+visit to a neighboring town, is received by his parish. Accordingly, he
+planned that a picture should be taken of himself on horseback, with all
+the people gathered around welcoming him. Telling us that he would
+be ready when we should have made our own preparations for this
+photographic effort, he waited for our summons. We quickly found,
+however, that the proposition, although hailed at first with joy, did
+not create great enthusiasm. We recommended to the people that they
+should get ready; told the musicians that the band should be prepared,
+and that soon we should send for the _padre_ to be welcomed. When we
+finally succeeded in getting the matter under way, and were seriously
+thinking of summoning the reverend gentleman, it was reported that
+an old woman had been found dead in her lonely hut that morning, and
+arrangements were at once started for her funeral. In vain we suggested
+that they should wait until the picture had been made. Musicians and
+parishioners alike disappeared, going down to the house where the dead
+body lay. The afternoon was passing. It would soon be quite too dark for
+a picture. Meantime, the _cura_, having become anxious in the matter,
+hastened from his house on foot, to ask why he had not been sent for. On
+our explaining that a funeral was in progress, he was greatly outraged.
+We pointed out the house in front of which the funeral procession was
+now forming. He stood watching, as the line of mourners approached. The
+person who had died was an aged woman named Hilaria. The body was borne
+upon a stretcher, as coffins are not much used among these people. The
+procession came winding up the high-road, where we stood. The band in
+front was playing mournfully; next came the bearers, two of whom, at
+least, were sadly drunk. The corpse was clad in the daily garments of
+the woman, and the body sagged down through gaps in the stretcher; a
+motley crowd of mourners, chiefly women, some with babies in their arms,
+followed. One man, walking with the band in front, carried a book in his
+hand and seemed to read the service, as they slowly passed along. When
+the procession had come near us and was about to pass, the _padre_
+stopped it; expressing his dissatisfaction at the failure to arrange for
+the photograph which he had ordered, he told the bearers to take the
+corpse out behind the house and leave it there. They did so, returned,
+and were arranged in a group with the _padre_ in their midst, and
+photographed, after which the body was picked up again, the procession
+was reformed, and proceeded as if nothing had happened.
+
+The following morning at six o'clock we were again upon the road. We
+first descended into the valley, passing the miserable hut from whence
+the dead woman had been borne. In all the yards we noticed peach-trees
+loaded with their pink blossoms. From the deep and narrow valley, we
+began to climb steadily upward. We passed along the side of a gorge,
+the bed of which had all the appearance of a giant stairway. Higher and
+higher we mounted, leaving San Juan Diusi on our right. Great masses of
+gray clouds hung upon the summits of the highest mountain, their lower
+line coming very nearly to our level. The wind beginning to blow, the
+gray mass soon was whirled and spread down like a great veil around us.
+We were indeed glad when we began to descend and have a little shelter
+behind us, against the wind, and dry skies instead of damp clouds above
+us. Making a sudden descent, we found ourselves in a cleared district,
+where the only trees left on the high summits were palms, which bore
+little round dates with round seeds; these were quite sweet and good.
+Small ranches were scattered, here and there, along the road. After
+another descent and ascent, we found ourselves in an extensive forest of
+great gnarled oaks, thickly covered with tufts of air-plants and with
+orchids. Many of the latter were in full bloom, forming masses of
+brilliant color. In making the descent from here, we found the slope
+composed of slippery limestone, with sharp, rain-channeled surfaces,
+where our horses with great difficulty kept their footing. Soon after we
+were down, we reached San Bartolo.
+
+This purely Mixtec town was a delightful spot. It is large, and strung
+along two or three long straight streets.
+
+[Illustration: THE PEOPLE RECEIVING THEIR PADRE; TILANTONGO]
+
+The houses were in yards completely filled with fruit
+trees--_chirimoyas, limas, granadas de China, ahuacates_ and oranges.
+Garden-beds of spinach, lettuce, and onions were frequent. The houses
+were of poles set upright, with thick thatchings of palms. Bee-hives in
+quantity were seen at almost every house. At Tilantongo we had seen but
+few women in native dress. Here almost every woman was clad in native
+garments, many of which were beautifully decorated. The men wore
+brilliant sashes, woven in the town. When we reached the town-house we
+found the doorway decorated with flowers,--stars and rosettes made of
+palm. We were well received, and a capital dinner was soon served, after
+which we were escorted around the town by the authorities, who arranged
+for photographing everything that seemed to us of interest. But, at
+three o'clock, we left this pretty spot. Again, we climbed much of the
+way over limestone roads. Santo Domingo, past which we journeyed, is a
+mean little town, with houses much like those of Tilantongo, but of a
+gray color instead of reddish-brown. From here we plunged downward, and
+when we ascended again, followed along the side of a rock-walled ca�on
+with pretty cascades and magnificent masses of fallen rock. The last
+part of our journey was made by moonlight, along a brook-side over
+a road which seemed quite endless. With some trouble, we found the
+dilapidated old church and the municipal house; we took possession of
+the school, and after a miserable supper, thoroughly tired, lay down to
+rest upon the benches.
+
+The town--Magdalena de los Comales--is so named from the _comales_, or
+earthenware griddles, made there. Besides this characteristic product,
+the town makes a good deal of unglazed but polished red pottery. The
+forms are chiefly candle-sticks, censers and toys. Much weaving of palm
+is here done, and the hats of the place are rather famous. Famous,
+too, are the _mantas_, or women's dresses, of black wool, made in long
+rectangular pieces. The common grade sells for $6.00, and in using it,
+it is, like indian dresses generally, simply wrapped about the figure
+and held in place by a sash or belt.
+
+Nowhere in our journey in southern Mexico had we met with the kind of
+scenery which we encountered between Magdalena and Tlaxiaco; its whole
+character was like that of New Mexico. Directly behind the town was
+a fine cart-road, worn in red sand pumice; before the town rose a
+magnificent cliff, which had been a landmark in our journey of the day
+before. The road running up the mountain, over gray and red pumice
+strata, was deeply worn, just like the road back of Cochiti, New Mexico.
+Here, too, were the same noble pines for forest. It was a full hour's
+climb to the summit, where we found a pretty brook tumbling over ledge
+after ledge into deep round basins of purest water. A long and rather
+gentle slope downward led to a valley filled with neat farm-houses and
+cleared patches. Our last ascent brought us to a mass of rounded hills,
+composed of brilliant clays--yellow, brown, pink, red and white. From
+among these hillocks Tlaxiaco, a magnificent picture, burst into view.
+It is compactly built; the flat-topped houses are white or blue-tinted;
+trees are sprinkled through the town; the old convent, with the two
+towers of its church, dominates the whole place; a pretty stream flows
+along its border; and a magnificent range of encircling mountains hems
+it in on all sides. The descent was rapid, and we reached Tlaxiaco with
+the morning but half gone.
+
+[Illustration: MIXTEC HOUSES WITH BEEHIVES; SAN BARTOLO]
+
+The _jefes_ of the districts of Mexico are frequently men of ability and
+force. Rarely, however, have we encountered one so prompt and energetic
+as Javier Cordova, then _jefe_ of the district of Tlaxiaco. When he took
+possession of this district, not long before, deeds of robbery along
+the high-road were common. In many portions of the district, acts of
+violence were quite the rule. Perhaps the largest agricultural district
+in the Republic, it possessed few of the conveniences of modern life.
+Under Cordova's administration, vast improvements have been made. The
+roads are secure, deeds of violence are rare, the advantages of the
+district are being rapidly developed, telephone and telegraph have been
+introduced, and a railroad is talked of. Although we had no letter
+from the governor addressed to Se�or Cordova, when we showed him the
+communications for other _jefes_, we were received with the greatest
+courtesy and everything was done to facilitate our work. We told him
+that we planned to visit the Triquis at Chicahuastla. He at once wrote
+letters to the town authorities and to Don Guillermo Murcio, living at
+that village. The plaster for our bust-making had not yet been received,
+but Se�or Cordova promised, in case it came, to forward it after us
+promptly, and, in case it did not come, to send twenty miles into the
+mountains for the raw plaster, which he would have prepared and sent on
+to Chicahuastla. It was late in the afternoon, before we started for
+Cuquila, where we planned to pass the night. It was a mistake to make so
+late a start. For a time, the road was fairly level, but at last we went
+up a brisk ascent, reaching the summit near sunset. The road down would
+have been a bad one, even in the daytime. As it was, if we had not had a
+good moon, we could hardly have made the descent. From the depth of the
+ca�on we ascended to Cuquila, thoroughly tired, somewhat before seven.
+It was with the greatest difficulty that we could find anyone of whom to
+ask our way to the town-house. Our voices were sufficient to plunge any
+house into instant darkness and silence. After a long search, we found
+a man who agreed to seek the _presidente_. He and the rest of the town
+officials finally met us on the road, and, after reading our order, took
+us to the town-house. It was with difficulty that we got fodder for our
+horses. It was only after persistent and dire threats, that we secured
+food for ourselves, and firewood to make the room, in which we were to
+sleep, endurable. It was long past eleven before we were through our
+troubles and lay down on mats to sleep.
+
+Though we had warned the town officials that we should leave at seven,
+and must have breakfast before we left, when we arose, we found no steps
+whatever taken for our accommodation. Yet the town officials had been
+up long enough to be thoroughly affected by their early morning drinks.
+Feeling that patience had ceased to be a virtue, we summoned the
+authorities, and told the _presidente_ that he had paid no attention
+whatever to his _jefe's_ order; that we had had far too much difficulty
+in securing the bad accommodations we had been furnished; that their
+promise to prepare a suitable breakfast had been completely disregarded.
+We told them that our duty was to send immediate complaint to Tlaxiaco;
+that we would, however, give them one more chance. We should not stop
+for breakfast, but would proceed upon our journey hungry; if, however,
+we sent him further orders regarding our return journey, we should
+expect them obeyed to the very letter. With this we mounted.
+
+In vain the _presidente_ and officials begged us to wait, promising that
+everything should be prepared. Time was too precious, and away we rode.
+
+Soon after leaving Cuquila we struck a fifty-minute mountain, the summit
+of which we made at nine o'clock exactly. Here we sat in the shade and
+lunched on bread and pineapples, bought the day before in Tlaxiaco. From
+the summit, there was a slow and gentle descent around that ridge, and
+then a slow incline along an endless ravine, until at last we came
+out upon a crest, from which we looked down upon one of the grandest
+mountain scenes of the world. A valley of impressive size, surrounded by
+magnificent mountain masses, lay below us, and just to the right, at our
+feet, was Chicahuastla. Few people in Mexico are so little known as the
+Triquis. Orozco y Berra, usually a good authority, locates them near
+Tehuantepec, in the low country. The towns which he calls Triqui are
+Chontal; the five true Triqui towns are in the high Mixteca. The largest
+is the town which we were now approaching. The Triquis are people of
+small stature, dark-brown color, black eyes, aquiline, but low and
+rather broad nose; they are among the most conservative, suspicious and
+superstitious of Mexican indians. Most of them dress in native clothing,
+and all speak the Triqui and not the Spanish language. As a people they
+are sadly degraded, through being exceptionally addicted to drink.
+
+Don Guillermo Murcio is a character. He and his family are almost the
+only _mestizos_ in the place. He is a hale and hearty blacksmith, and
+has lived for fifteen years in this purely indian town, where he has
+gained almost unbounded influence among the simple natives. His word is
+law, and the town-government trembles before his gaze. He is impetuous
+in manner, quick-tempered, and on the slightest suggestion of disregard
+of his commands, freely threatens jail or other punishment. He received
+us cordially, and we lived at his house, where we were treated to the
+best that was available.
+
+We have already referred to the beautiful location of Chicahuastla. Its
+appearance is most picturesque. Unlike the indian towns in the Mixteca
+which we had so far visited, it has many houses of circular form with
+conical roof. It is possible that this style of construction is the
+result of African influence. At Chicahuastla we were on the very summit
+of the great water-shed, and from it, when the air is clear, one may
+look down, over a sea of lesser summits and mountain ranges, to the
+waters of the Pacific. Along the Pacific coast, in the state of
+Guerrero, are whole towns of Africans, descendants of slaves, who build
+their houses after the circular pattern, so common throughout the dark
+continent. We did not find in the Triquis any admixture of African
+blood, but it is possible the mode of house-building may have been
+influenced by negro example.
+
+Our first glimpse of the town suggested a veritable paradise. At eleven
+the sky was clear, the sun almost tropical, the whole country smiled
+under its warm beams; but at two there came a change. Fogs, so dense as
+to shut out the view of what was across the road, drifted down from the
+summit on which we had seen cloud masses forming. Deeper and deeper,
+wetter and wetter, colder and colder grew the mist. All, wrapped in
+their thickest blankets, were shivering, crouched upon the ground,
+trying in vain to keep themselves warm. At first we thought this might
+be a rare occasion, but were assured that it is an every-day occurrence,
+and from our own experience of four or five days, we can easily believe
+the statement to be true. How any people can live in such a spot,
+suffering keenly twenty hours in the day, simply for the four hours of
+clear sunshine and warmth is inexplicable; and the nights were torments!
+Don Guillermo's house is well built of logs and plaster, but no house
+could keep out that bitter cold night air which chilled us, as we lay in
+bed, until we could hardly move.
+
+[Illustration: DON GUILLERMO AND HIS FAMILY; CHICAHUASTLA]
+
+[Illustration: GROUP OF TRIQUIS; CHICAHUASTLA]
+
+We have already stated that the people of Chicahuastla are conservative
+and superstitious. Our operations of measuring, photographing and
+bust-making filled the town with alarm and concern. It was hard enough
+to get our male subjects; the women were yet more difficult. At first
+we failed to secure any, but after we had several times told the town
+officials that twenty-five women must be forthcoming for measurement,
+and Don Guillermo had stormed and threatened, the town-government began
+to plan a mode of carrying out our wishes. Close by Don Guillermo's
+house was the miserable little village _plaza_, where the women of the
+town assembled with corn-cakes and other articles for trade. There, they
+met the travelling peddlers coming from Tlaxiaco, from Cuquila and the
+coast, and drove their bargains, mostly a matter of trade, not purchase,
+with them. Waiting at the place where we were working, until one or two
+women were to be seen in the _plaza_, the town officials separated,
+going in two directions. In a few minutes an anxious watcher, from our
+point of view, might have seen a gradually contracting circle of men
+surrounding the _plaza_. Usually at the same time that this circle was
+evident to the watcher, it became also evident to the women. With cries
+of terror, the poor creatures would start off as fast as their legs
+would carry them, over the mountain trails, with the whole town
+government, sixteen strong, in pursuit, with yells and screams. It was
+like nothing but the chase of deer by hounds. Usually, the women, given
+strength by terror, escaped; but once out of three times, perhaps, the
+officials returned in triumph with their prisoner in their midst, who
+was at once measured and then, if need be, photographed. In course of
+time these hunts supplied the twenty-five victims desired.
+
+It might not be uninteresting to describe the events of a single
+afternoon in a Triqui town. On one occasion, having eaten dinner, we had
+scarcely begun our work when we heard a great uproar and din upon the
+road toward Santo Domingo. Looking in that direction, we saw a crowd of
+men and boys struggling toward us. As they came nearer, we saw that
+six or eight of the party were carrying some awkward and inconvenient
+burden. It was a man, sprawling face downward; two or more held his
+arms, an equal number his legs; about his waist a belt, knotted behind,
+was tied, and then through the knot was thrust a strong pole, which was
+being carried by two men, one on either side. Struggling against those
+who carried him, raising his face and snarling and gnashing at the
+crowd, the prisoner presented a fearful spectacle. It seemed that, being
+drunk, he had quarreled with his friend, whom he had nearly murdered
+with his _machete_. About the middle of the afternoon we heard a loud
+crying in the other direction, toward the church and jail, and, on
+looking, saw coming toward us a man, whose head was broken open and from
+it was streaming blood, his head and face were covered, and his white
+shirt, to the waist and even below, was soaked with the red fluid. He
+was wringing his hands and crying in a piteous manner. When he came to
+where we stood, he told his tale of woe. He was the majordomo in charge
+of the church property. He had expected that the priest would make his
+visit to the pueblo on that day, and had so announced it to the people;
+the pious parishioners looked forward, with interest, to the coming of
+the _padre_. When the day passed, however, and the priest failed to
+appear, one of the more religious felt so outraged that he had
+broken open the head of the majordomo with a club, on account of his
+disappointment. We told the poor fellow to go home and let his wife
+clean him up and change his clothing, promising that, if he died, his
+assailant should be punished. That evening there was a little moonlight
+at Chicuhuastla, the only time during our stay. As we sat eating supper,
+we heard an outcry in the direction of the church and jail. Asking Don
+Guillermo what might be the cause, he replied that there was probably
+some trouble at the jail. We insisted on going to see what might be
+happening. Don Guillermo, the plaster-worker, Mariano, Manuel and I,
+seizing whatever weapons were convenient at hand, started for the jail.
+We found an excited crowd gathered around the doorway. On a log before
+the door there sat a creature crazy-drunk. I have never seen a case more
+horrible. He screamed, yelled, gnashed his teeth, struck and snapped
+at everyone around. The whole village stood in terror. I addressed the
+policemen, who seemed quite helpless. "Why not thrust him into the jail?
+Quick! Seize him! In with him!" Encouraged by our words, they seized
+him, the door was quickly opened, and he was cast into the little room,
+which already contained more than thirty persons, the harvest of a
+single afternoon. When the door was locked, we saw for the first time
+why the policemen had been so timid. One of them came limping up to us,
+crying, and showed his leg. From its fleshy part a good mouthful of
+flesh had been cleanly bitten by the madman. The wound was bleeding
+profusely, and the poor fellow wrung his hands and cried with pain.
+
+[Illustration: VIEW AT CHICAHUASTLA]
+
+We had finished our measurements and photographs, but there had been no
+sign as yet of the plaster; concluding that Se�or Cordova had forgotten
+his promise, we were prepared to leave town early the next morning.
+After dark two men came from Tlaxiaco, one of whom brought sufficient
+plaster for making two good busts. This plaster had been brought, in
+a crude state, twenty miles from the mountains to Tlaxiaco; had been
+calcined and ground there, by prisoners in the jail, and then sent
+fifteen miles to us over the mountains. We were interested in the men
+who brought it. One of them was a prisoner from the Tlaxiaco jail. He
+had been sentenced to ten days for drinking, and it was he who carried
+the plaster. The other proudly informed us that he was a policeman, and
+had come to make sure that the prisoner returned. Thoroughly delighted
+at their coming, we broke our custom and gave the men a trifle. Alas,
+the day! That very night both men, policeman and prisoner, were thrust
+into the local jail, helplessly drunk.
+
+One evening, during our stay at Chicahuastla, Don Guillermo begged me
+to go into the kitchen to examine a baby, upon whom he was thinking
+of performing a surgical operation. The creature was a boy some three
+months old, pure indian. We had heard him crying at night ever since
+we had come, but had not seen him. A tumor, or some growth, was on his
+neck, below the chin. Don Guillermo handed me the razor, in order that
+I might remove the swelling, but I refused the task. The story of the
+child is sad. It is the son of a young indian boy and girl, not married.
+That would not be a serious matter among the Triquis. For some reason,
+however, the mother did not like the child, and scarcely was it born,
+when she went with it into the forest; there in a lonely place she
+choked it, as she thought, to death, and buried it in the ground. The
+town authorities, suspecting something of her purpose, had followed her
+and were watching at the moment. No sooner had she left the spot than
+they dug up the child, found it still alive, and brought it to Don
+Guillermo, who had kept it at the town's charge.
+
+The last night of our stay at Chicahuastla, just after supper,
+a cavalcade came to the door. It was the _jefe_ of the next
+district--Juxtlahuaca--with a guard of six mounted men. Apparently a
+pleasant fellow, he was at the moment excited over a recent disturbance
+in his district. In an attempt which he had made to adjust a certain
+difficulty, he and his guard had been fired on and stones thrown
+from the height above them, by the people of the pueblo. One of his
+companions died from the effect of the attack. The officer plainly
+feared an outbreak or uprising, and was nervous and uneasy, though Don
+Guillermo assured him that in his house there was absolutely no danger.
+Finally, we quieted down and all went to bed, we with the intention of
+an early start the next morning.
+
+[Illustration: AT WORK; MEASURING]
+
+[Illustration: AT WORK; BUST MAKING]
+
+After an uneasy night, I awoke about five o'clock. Just as I was
+thinking of calling my companions, I felt a faint trembling, which
+rapidly increased to a heavy shaking, of the house in which we slept.
+There was a moment's pause, and then a second shaking, which began
+stronger than the other, but which lasted about the same time. It was
+the most serious earthquake shock we ever experienced in Mexico. Had the
+house been made of brick and plaster, considerable damage might have
+been done. Everyone was wide awake in an instant. The whole town was in
+excitement. The church-bell was rung and the people flocked out into the
+street. The shock passed at exactly 5:20, and, in other towns, notably
+in Oaxaca, it did considerable damage.
+
+Two days before, we had sent word to the authorities at Cuquila, that we
+should breakfast with them on our way back to Tlaxiaco, and ordered them
+to be ready for our coming. This was the opportunity which had been
+promised them for redeeming themselves and avoiding complaint to their
+_jefe_. Arriving at the town at 9:40, we were met at the roadside by
+some of the officials, who led us at once to the town-house. Here the
+whole town government was gathered to greet us; politely each one,
+stepping forward, removed his hat and kissed my hand; they then invited
+us to sit down at the table and breakfast,--whereupon eggs, chicken,
+_tortillas_ and _frijoles_--the best the town could supply--were set
+before us. The whole government sat by, looking on as we ate.
+
+Immediately after breakfast, in accordance with our order previously
+sent, we were taken to see a potter at work. Cuquila is famous for two
+lines of manufacture, pottery and woolen garments. The pottery here made
+is skillfully shaped into wonderfully large vessels of different forms.
+The product goes throughout this whole district, and even down to the
+Pacific coast, a hundred miles distant. Along the roads it is a common
+thing to meet parties of three or four men carrying great loads of
+water-jars, large bowls, etc., for sale or trade. While we were
+inspecting the potter's work, a slight shock of earthquake, almost too
+gentle to be noticed, passed through the place.
+
+At Cuquila, we found that we should not meet Se�or Cordova at Tlaxiaco.
+He had passed through the town the night before, on his way to
+Juxtlahuaca, with a band of soldiers to assist his neighboring _jefe_ in
+maintaining order.
+
+Leaving our Cuquila reprobates in friendly and gentle mood, we started
+for Tlaxiaco, where we arrived at half-past two. Something after four
+o'clock, we heard a violent ringing of the church-bell and saw the
+people flocking out onto the streets; looking up at the church-tower,
+although we did not feel the shock, we saw that the whole church was
+being violently shaken, and that the ringing bells, which we had heard,
+were not moved by human hands. This third shock of the day was more
+strongly felt in other districts, than with us. In the City of Mexico,
+three hundred miles away, it was the most severe of the day.
+
+The whole town was in commotion; people threw themselves upon their
+knees in the streets and prayed to the Virgin for protection. Later
+in the day, we saw a priest and a saint's figure passing through the
+streets, and as they passed the people paid reverence. Surely the little
+procession, illegal though it was, must have been successful, for there
+were no further shocks. We found here a most interesting superstition,
+which we had not met before, but which we heard several times later, in
+other districts. We were assured that the earthquake was but one of many
+signs that the world was coming to an end. We discovered that thousands
+of the people expected the ending of the world in 1900, and when we
+asked why, were reminded that this was the last year of the century.
+This is certainly a survival of ancient superstition. The old Mexicans
+did not count their years by hundreds or centuries, as we do, but by
+cycles of 52 years each. It was believed that the world would come to an
+end at the close of a cycle, and important ceremonies were conducted
+to avert such a catastrophe. It is clear that the old idea, of the
+destruction of the world at the close of a cycle, has been transferred
+to the new mode of reckoning time.
+
+[Illustration: VIEW AT CHICAHUASTLA]
+
+From Tlaxiaco to Teposcolula, there was a cart-road, though it was
+possible that no _carreta_ ever passed over it. It presented little good
+scenery. We passed the pueblos of San Martin Jilmeca, San Felipe, and
+San Miguel. Just before reaching the first of these towns, the road
+passes over a coarse rock mass, which weathers into spheroidal shells.
+At Jilmeca and some other points along the day's route the rock over
+which we passed was a white tufaceous material loaded with streaks of
+black flint. Sometimes this black flint passes into chert and chalcedony
+of blue and purple tints. Here and there, along the mountain sides,
+we caught glimpses of rock exposures, which looked snow-white in the
+distance. Between Jilmeca and San Felipe there was a pretty brook, with
+fine cypresses along the banks, and a suspension bridge of great logs.
+Having passed through San Felipe and San Miguel, a pleasant road,
+through a gorge, brought us to the valley in which Teposcolula lies. The
+great convent church, historically interesting, is striking in size and
+architecture. The priest, an excellent man, is a pure-blooded Mixtec
+indian, talking the language as his mother tongue. With great pride
+he showed us about the building, which was once a grand Dominican
+monastery. The old carved wooden cupboard for gold and silver articles,
+used in the church service, is fine work. The gold and silver articles
+for which it was built have long since disappeared. In the _patio_ are
+many old paintings, most of which are badly damaged, and some of which
+have been repaired with pieces cut from other pictures, not at all like
+the missing piece. Among these pictures is a series of scenes from the
+life of Santo Domingo. Of the figures in the church, two are fairly
+good; one, which is famous, represents Our Lady of the Rosary. In a
+little chapel are buried the remains of the old friars; here also is a
+beautiful old carved confessional. In front of the old church is a great
+court surrounded by a stone wall, which is surmounted here and there
+with little, pointed, square pillars. To the right of the church is a
+mass of masonry, in reddish-brown freestone, consisting of a series of
+arches, now more or less in ruins. When the convent was at the height
+of its splendor, the crowd of worshippers was too large for the church
+itself, and these beautiful arches were erected to receive the overflow.
+In the church itself, the plaster in the domes of the towers and the
+coloring on the walls and domes had chipped and fallen, on account of
+the earthquake, the day before. In the ruins of the upper rooms of the
+convent proper, stone and mortar, dislodged from the decaying walls by
+the same shocks, lay in little heaps on the floor.
+
+The _cura_ had ten churches in his charge. He says there are 2,000
+people in Teposcolula, few of whom are indians. In his ten churches,
+he has 12,000 parishioners. He seemed a devout man, and emphasized the
+importance of his preaching to his congregation in their native tongue
+and his. So convinced is he that the native idiom of the people is the
+shortest road to their heart and understanding, that he has prepared a
+catechism and Christian doctrine in the modern Mixtec, which has been
+printed. The town itself is desolate; the _plaza_ is much too large,
+and dwarfs the buildings which surround it, and signs of desolation
+and decay mark everything. With the fondness which Mexicans show for
+high-sounding and pious inscriptions, the municipality has painted,
+upon the side of the town-house, in full sight for a long distance, the
+words, "Nations to be great and free must be educated." From here to
+Nochixtlan there was nothing of special interest. For some four leagues
+the road was through a gorge; from this valley we mounted to the height,
+just before reaching the town of Tiltepec, from which we caught an
+extensive view down over the great valley in which Nochixtlan and this
+town lie. From Tiltepec we had a rather tiresome, hot, and painful ride,
+passing San Juan Tillo and Santiago Tillo. By half past one we were
+again in the city of Nochixtlan.
+
+[Illustration: TRIQUI CHILDREN; CHICAHUASTLA]
+
+[Illustration: MIXTEC POTTER; CUQUILA]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII
+
+THE MIXES REVISITED
+
+(1899)
+
+
+After resting at Oaxaca, from our trip into the high Mixteca, we made
+preparations for our new journey, leaving at three o'clock in the
+afternoon for the land of the Zapotecs and Mixes. Our late start
+compelled stopping at Tule for the night. In the morning we went on to
+Tlacolula, where we nooned, in order to see the _jefe_ in regard to our
+work. He is a competent man, showed great interest in our plan, and gave
+valuable advice, in addition to the orders to his officials. He warned
+us that we might meet some difficulty at Milta, where we were planning
+to make our study of the Zapotecs, on account of the _fiesta_ then in
+progress. He told us to notify him at once in case matters did not go
+well there.
+
+The _fiesta_ at Milta should have been a three days' affair. This year,
+however, it began on Sunday with the result that it filled four days.
+Reaching there in the afternoon of Monday, we found the whole town in
+great excitement and dissipation. The _plaza_ had been enclosed with a
+fencing of poles, and _toros_ were the amusement of the afternoon. The
+country sports with bulls are different from the regular bull-fights of
+the cities. Any one takes part who pleases, and while there is little of
+trained skill, there is often much of fun, frolic, and daring. The bull
+is led into the ring from outside by a lasso. It is then lassoed from
+behind and dragged up to a post or tree, to which it is firmly tied to
+prevent its moving. A rope is then tightly cinched about its middle and
+a man mounts upon the back of the beast, fixing his feet firmly in the
+rope below, between it and the animal, and winding his hands into it
+above. The ropes which hold the bull are then withdrawn so as to set
+it loose. Dozens of men and big boys, with jackets and _serapes_, then
+torment the beast, which, plunging and dashing at them, scatters them in
+every direction. Sometimes the angry animal attempts to break through
+the fence, causing excitement and consternation among the crowds who
+have been hanging to it and looking over. When, as sometimes happens, he
+does break through, there is great scattering before him, and closing
+in behind him, until he is again captured. The man riding on the bull's
+back clings as long as he can, in spite of the plunging and other
+frantic efforts of the animal to unseat him; comparatively few stay long
+in their uncomfortable position, and when they are thrown, much agility
+is required to escape from the furious animal.
+
+[Illustration: IN TLACOLULA]
+
+[Illustration: TYPICAL ZAPOTEC HOUSE; TLACOLULA]
+
+As we rode into town these sports were in full blast; everyone, save the
+bull-fighters, was drunk. Now and then a tube of iron filled with powder
+was exploded. A band in front of the municipal house was supplying
+music. A little group of men with _pitos_ and _tambours_ strolled from
+place to place, playing. Much selling was in progress in the booths, the
+chief articles offered being intoxicating drinks. A cluster of drunken
+vocalists, sitting flat upon the ground, but almost unable to hold
+themselves upright, were singing horribly to untuned guitars. In front
+of the town-house a bench had been dragged out by the authorities for
+the benefit of the _cura_, who, seated thereon, was watching the sports
+with maudlin gravity. The _presidente_ and other officials were standing
+by the _padre_, and all were drinking at frequent intervals. Thinking
+the moment opportune, I approached the party and handed them my
+documents; but both _presidente_ and priest were far too drunk to
+realize my needs. Surveying the drunken town, I felt that it was
+necessary to act promptly and firmly if we were to accomplish anything
+before the _fiesta_ ended. The only member of the government who was not
+extremely drunk that afternoon was the _sindico_. Calling him to me, I
+addressed him, scorning both priest and _presidente_. I refused to drink
+with them, saying that they were already too drunk to know their duties,
+and that both should be ashamed of their condition. At this time the
+_cura_ asked me if I were a clergyman. On my replying no, he remarked
+that I looked like one. I told him yes, that I was frequently mistaken
+for one; that a priest in the Mixteca had even thought that I was a
+bishop. He then drunkenly inquired whether I were married, and on my
+replying no, made the astonishing observation that then, it was certain
+that I could not be a priest,--that every priest had one wife, bishops
+two, and archbishops three. This drunken priest had just been making
+certain observations to the _presidente_ calculated to interfere with my
+work, and I felt that I now had my opportunity. So, turning upon him, I
+gravely reproved him for his remark. I told him that, in his language
+and his drunkenness, he was setting a bad example to his parish; that he
+should go at once to the _curato_, and not venture forth during the time
+that we remained in the town. Half-sobered by my order, he arose without
+a word, went to his house, and did not again appear for four days.
+Having gotten him out of the way, I turned to the drunken officials and
+told them that, early the next morning, I should begin my work, and
+that they must make the needful preparations; that I wished to measure,
+photograph, and make busts of the population. I told them that at
+present they were too drunk to aid me, but that the following morning
+things must be different; that enough at least to attend to my orders
+must be sober. After supper, attracted by the noise and hubbub, we set
+out to see the _plaza_. Torches were flaring in every direction, and
+considerable business was being done at all the booths. Crowds of
+drunken people were squatting on the ground in all directions; at the
+town-house the band of music was playing the _jarabe_, and 40 or 50
+persons were dancing this lively dance. Old and young, men and women,
+boys and girls, all were taking part; no one paid attention to any other
+person, but each seemed to be trying to prove himself the most agile of
+the party. All were drunk, some astonishingly so. Occasionally a
+dancer would bump against such an one, who would fall head over heels.
+Immediately picking himself up, he would go at it again, with even
+greater vigor; sometimes one fell, of himself, in a helpless heap,
+and lay where he fell, until kicked out of the way or until the music
+stopped. All around was pandemonium; yelling, singing, cursing, fighting
+were in progress; the jail was crowded, but every now and then a new
+case was dragged up; for an instant the door was opened, and against the
+crowd, pushing from within, the new prisoner would be crowded into the
+cell. At one time in the evening a cry arose that a murder was being
+committed in the jail. The door was opened, the policemen crowded in,
+and the two men who had clinched and were battling were torn apart. One
+was dragged outside and thrown into the woman's jail, and for a time the
+air was blue with the most insulting cries. Convinced that no work
+could be done in the afternoons, we labored with the greatest possible
+diligence each morning. The first morning, going to the town-house,
+we ordered subjects to be brought. The _presidente_ was drunk; the
+_sindico_ also; still, some of the town officials were found in
+a condition able to do our bidding. Having measured a few of the
+officials, we proposed to take such prisoners as still remained in the
+jail, from the batch of the preceding day. There were eighteen of these,
+and with them we made a good beginning. Among the prisoners we found our
+first subject for modelling. Oiling him, we began to make the moulds.
+The back-piece had been applied; the second piece, covering the lower
+part of the face and upper chest, was hardening, and we were busily
+engaged in putting on the final application over the upper part of the
+face. At this moment the _presidente_ staggered into the jail. When
+his eyes fell upon our subject, he stopped aghast; for a moment he was
+unable to speak; then he groaned out the words, "O horrible spectacle!
+To think of seeing a son of this town in such a position!" As I was
+beginning to laugh and ridicule him, the old mother of the young man
+came bursting into the jail, weeping and trembling, to see what fate had
+overtaken her son. Wringing her hands, the tears rolled down her face,
+and her voice was choked with sobs, as she asked pitifully whether he
+must die; she told me that he was her only support, and that, without
+him, she was absolutely alone. Taking the old woman outside, while the
+mask should be completed, I chatted with her, and as soon as the pieces
+of the mould were removed, delivered her precious son, unharmed, into
+her hands.
+
+Just as we were ready for a new subject, a young fellow, better dressed
+than most, passed by. We called him to come in and be measured, but with
+a somewhat insolent manner, he walked by, paying no attention to our
+words. Sending the policemen for him, they soon returned with the
+report, "_No quiere_" (He does not care to come). To allow a first
+refusal was not to be thought of, so we ordered his return. Again the
+policemen came back with no result. Thereupon I declared that no more
+work should be done until he came; that time would be lost thereby, and
+the _jefe's_ order would be disregarded, but that it was not our fault.
+Upon this the _presidente_ informed us that the order was not explicit;
+it did not state that people must be measured; he would consult the
+civil code to see whether anyone but criminals must be measured. "Very
+good," said I, "do as you like; but unless that young man is brought in
+we shall send complaint to the _jefe_; send for a messenger at once to
+carry my report." At this stage, the policemen returned, telling me that
+the young man wanted did not belong to this town; that he could not be
+found, and probably had gone home. We told them that we did not believe
+them, but that we would proceed with our work; however, I said, that,
+if he really were a stranger but appeared again, I should order his
+immediate arrest and jailing. To this they all agreed; and we continued
+work until the town was again too drunk for anything to be done.
+
+[Illustration: ORGANO CACTUS; TLACOLULA]
+
+[Illustration: WHERE TREE FERNS GROW]
+
+About the middle of the afternoon, when the bull-fighting was at its
+height, the young man wanted appeared in the ring as the chief fighter
+and attraction of the day. Stepping at once to the policemen I told
+them that he must be brought immediately to the town-house,--that
+the bull-fight must cease while our matters were arranged. With much
+grumbling and complaint they obeyed. The young man dismounted from his
+bull and was brought by the policeman before us. Here we asked the
+_sindico_ the name and residence of the young man; and, as we supposed,
+he belonged in Mitla. Asking him why he had not come to be measured
+when he was told to do so, he replied that we had already measured him.
+Telling him that lying would not save him, I commanded him to appear the
+following morning for measurement,--that otherwise he would be sent a
+prisoner to Oaxaca. In the morning he did not appear until officials
+were sent to bring him. After he had gone through the ordeal of
+measurement he swore eternal friendship to me, and at no time afterward
+was I able to pass him, on the street or in the square, without his
+begging me to drink _tepache_ with him.
+
+Mitla is famous for its weaving; fine _mantas_ of wool are made there
+in two chief styles--one a long strip of black or blue-black cloth, the
+other a rich red, sometimes banded or striped with black. These Mitla
+_mantas_ are widely sold to Zapotecs, in all the district around, and
+form the characteristic women's dress. The Zapotecs of this district
+wear something on their feet that more nearly resembles true shoes than
+the footgear of any other Indians in southern Mexico. The sandal of the
+man has a projecting heel-flap which is bound around the ankles by means
+of thongs, and forms a good protection to the hind part of the foot. The
+women have not only such a flap, even higher than that used by the men,
+but also a broad strip of leather over the forward part of the foot,
+leaving the toes peeping out in front; between the heel flap and the toe
+covering, the foot is quite as well enclosed, excepting for the toes, as
+in a white man's shoe.
+
+It was quite impossible, with the amount of work we had to do, and the
+difficulties under which we labored, to give the least attention to
+the ruins. We arranged, however, to make a photograph of the town
+authorities standing in the great court of one of the fine old
+buildings--a court the walls of which are covered with beautiful mosaic
+decorations, betraying taste and skill. The motley crew of half-drunk
+officials, miserably dressed, degraded, poor, in this scene of past
+magnificence, called up thoughts of the contrast between the government
+of old Mitla and the present,--of past magnificence and modern squalor.
+
+[Illustration: THE CONTRAST; PAST AND PRESENT--MITLA]
+
+Having accomplished all we wished at Mitla, we again struck eastward
+toward the land of the Mixes. Late in starting, we made no attempt to go
+further than San Lorenzo that afternoon. The old road was familiar,
+and from there on, through the following day, everything came back
+to memory. Even individual trees, projecting rock masses, and little
+streams, were precisely as we remembered them from our journey of three
+years earlier. We reached Ayutla in the evening a little before sunset.
+Riding directly to the municipal house we summoned the town government.
+We had not provided ourselves with orders from the _jefe_ of the
+district, as Villa Alta, the _jefatura_, lay far out of our course. We
+planned to use our general letter from the governor. When the officials
+assembled we presented our order and explained it; we told them what we
+needed for the night, and arrangements were at once made for supplying
+us; we then told the _presidente_ of the work we had before us, and
+informed him that, because his town was small, we should ask for only
+thirty-five men for measurement, and that these must be ready, early in
+the morning, with no trouble to us.
+
+The _presidente_ demurred; he doubted whether the people would come to
+be measured; we told him that they would not come, of course, unless he
+sent for them. When morning came, although everything had been done for
+our comfort, there was no sign of subjects. That no time might be lost,
+we took the _presidente_ and three or four other officials, who were
+waiting around the house; then, with firmness, we ordered that he should
+bring other subjects. The officials were gone for upwards of an hour,
+and when they returned, had some ten or twelve men with them. "Ah," said
+I, "you have brought these, then, for measurement?" "On the contrary,
+sir," said the _presidente_, "this is a committee of the principal men
+of the town who have come to tell you that the people do not wish to be
+measured." "Ah," said I, "so you are a committee, are you, come to tell
+me that you do not wish to be measured?" "Yes." Waiting a moment, I
+turned to the officials and asked, "And which one particularly does
+not wish to be measured of this committee?" Immediately, a most
+conservative-looking individual was pointed out. Addressing him, I said,
+"And so you do not wish to be measured?" "No sir," said he, "I will not
+be measured." "Very good," said I. "What is your name?" He told us.
+I marked it down upon my blank, and wrote out the description of his
+person. Then, seizing my measuring rod, I said to him quite sharply,
+"Well, well! Take off your hat and sandals. We must lose no time!"
+And before he really realized what we were doing, I had taken his
+measurements. Having finished with him, I turned again to the
+_presidente_. "And what other member of the committee particularly
+objects to being measured?" As I spoke, another man was indicated.
+Turning to him, I said, "Let us lose no time. Take off your hat and
+sandals while I measure you." In an instant the thing was done. The
+operation was carried through. Before I had finished with the second
+case, the others began to smile and snicker, and when I was ready for
+my third subject I simply asked, "Who next?" and they came one after
+another without complaint. Having measured all the members of the
+committee, I soberly addressed them. "Now, if there is any harm in this
+that I have done, you are all as badly off as can be. If I were you, I
+would try to get as many other people in the same position as I could;
+go out and bring in others." Before noon the work was done, and we were
+ready to go on to Juquila.
+
+We rested, however, the balance of the day, and spent a second night at
+Ayutla. The day had been given to drinking, throughout the town. It will
+be remembered that the village proper lies on a terrace, upon a slope
+above the town-house. As we sat before the house, in the afternoon
+and evening, we heard from time to time yells and cries above. Some
+policemen, who were standing up there to keep order, would then appear
+upon the edge of the slope, and, waving their hands, would loudly cry
+for help; then the policemen from the town-house would run to their
+assistance, and in a little time the party would return, dragging one
+or more victims to the jail. This operation continued from early in the
+afternoon until late at night; fully fifteen or twenty persons were
+brought down from the village to the jail during that time.
+
+We had hoped to find the valley of clouds, and the great cloud cataract,
+on the road to Juquila, but were doomed to disappointment. When we stood
+upon the summit, looking down into what before had been the sea of mist,
+the whole place was clear, and everything, to the very bottom of the
+valley, was visible. The further journey seemed more tedious than
+before, and the latter part of the road seemed truly endless. There was
+not a breath of air; the sun poured its hot rays down mercilessly. Long
+before we reached Juquila I felt, for the first time in Mexico, that I
+was suffering from fever. After seven and a half hours on the road,
+we reached the town at 1:30 in the afternoon, and went at once to the
+town-house, where we were well received, and arrangements were made
+for our comfort. When they saw that I was suffering, they brought out
+hammocks, of which I made no use. Making myself a bed of blankets upon
+the floor, I lay down in my misery and covered myself from the world, a
+blanket over my head. After some hours, I felt that we were losing
+time, and that we must, at least, make arrangements for the work of the
+following day. It was now dusk. I sent for the officials, and when they
+appeared, told them that, notwithstanding my suffering, I could not
+lose time, and that early in the morning they must bring persons for
+measurement. There was a good deal of discussion over the matter. The
+officials were dissatisfied that my order was not signed by the _jefe_
+of their district and dated from San Carlos. They suggested that we send
+a messenger to San Carlos to inquire whether the order was all right. I
+replied that four days would be consumed in going and coming; that time
+was precious, and that it was impossible for us to wait. Seeing that
+they were likely to refuse to do what I wished, I made a little speech,
+in which I told them they had better do what I asked, and that promptly.
+No one so far had recognized me as having been there before. I told them
+that they had never had better friend that I; that this was not the
+first time I had visited Juquila; that when I came before I had had
+difficulty; that my companion, presenting an order from the governor,
+had been badly received by their _presidente_, who tried to do him
+violence; that if I had reported this incident, they knew well what
+would have happened; that, however, being their good friend, I had never
+reported it. Having jogged their memory regarding the past, I suggested
+to them that a report of the previous occurrence, with their present
+disregard of orders, might be serious. I told them that they knew what I
+desired; that they might at once inform me whether it would be done or
+not; if they decided in the negative, the _secretario_ and my _mozo_
+must start at once on foot to Oaxaca, carrying my complaint to the
+governor; that, as for me, having started them upon their journey, I
+should leave early the following morning going to some town where the
+people knew what obedience to the law meant. They at once promised that
+no time should be lost, and that, the following morning, I should have
+the subjects for whom I asked, viz., thirty-five men and twenty-five
+women. Nor was it simply promises; having told them that I would begin
+early in the morning whether I were well or ill, and that I wanted no
+delay, we found our thirty-five men waiting, at seven o'clock.
+
+[Illustration: THE LAND OF THE MIXES]
+
+At Juquila the system of public crying from the _plaza_ is fully
+developed. The town lies in a valley, and most of the houses are on
+slopes surrounding the little plain or terrace upon which the _plaza_ is
+situated on which the government house is built. When aid was needed
+by the town authorities, whether _zacate_ for our horses, food for
+ourselves, objects for inspection, or what not, one of the officers,
+whose business it seemed to be, stepped out upon the _plaza_, and,
+raising his voice would cry out what was needed by the authorities.
+Whoever had the things desired, coming out before their houses, would
+cry back the amount, description and variety of the articles they could
+supply. This we found to be the constant practice.
+
+Notwithstanding the clearness of the preceding day, our day of working
+was cold, damp, and foggy. The sea of cloud and cataract of mists must
+have been in full operation. Where we were, a heavy wind was blowing
+and, before night, rain falling. We had not thought of the possibility
+of heavy storms or damaged roads at this time of the year, but, before
+night came, the people of the village expressed surprise that we should
+talk of leaving the next morning. They assured us that at Quezaltepec
+and Ixcuintepec it was surely raining heavily, and that the roads would
+be wet, slippery and impassable. Long before we went to bed, a gale was
+blowing and we felt doubts regarding further progress. In the morning
+it was still wet and chilly; all told of terrible roads and risks in
+proceeding; we delayed. Finally, we decided to press on at least to
+Ocotopec. We had tried to send the _mozos_ forward with our baggage, but
+it was plain they would not move until we did. Finally, somewhat after
+nine, we started. It was still heavy and chilly; we found the road much
+better than we feared; at some points it was slippery, but not for
+long distances. Until we were on the final descent to Ocotopec we were
+sheltered from the cold wind. To be sure, here and there, where the road
+passed little funnel openings along the crest, we felt fully the cold
+wind loaded with mist.
+
+We noticed, what on the other trip escaped my attention, the profound
+difference in vegetation between the two sides of the hill upon the
+crest of which we were travelling. The one slope, cold and damp, was
+densely forested with trees, loaded with air-plants and orchids. The
+other slope, warmer and drier, was far less heavily grown, and in large
+part, with pines. Among the plants noticed by the roadside was a species
+of pinguicula which was very common on damp clay-cuttings. Its leaves
+form a close, flat rosette upon the ground, from which a slender stalk
+rises, with a a single crimson flower. When we reached the final descent
+to the town, we caught the full force of the cold, mist-laden wind,
+which struck our faces and made us shiver. Yet it was on this very
+slope, so frequently cold and wet, that the oaks, covered with
+air-plants and blooming orchids, were at their finest. Ferns in
+astonishing variety, from the most delicate, through giant herbaceous
+forms, to magnificent tree-ferns; lycopods of several species, and
+selaginellas, in tufts, covered the slopes; and great banks of begonias,
+in fine bloom, showed themselves. Before we reached the village we were
+forced to dismount, on account of the slippery condition of the road,
+and entered town on foot.
+
+In our other journey Ocotopec made no impression on us. It is really one
+of the most picturesque and interesting of the Mixe towns. It is built
+upon a slope, which is cut and built into a series of little terraced
+gardens; clusters or groups of houses stand on the terraces. The houses
+are rectangular, built of adobe brick and heavy thatch, with a thick
+comb of thatch riding the ridge. Unlike most Mixe churches, the church
+at Ocotopec is entire, and in good condition. It is built of stone. The
+town is purely Indian, and the type is the best we had seen. Had there
+been light for photographing, we should have stopped there and done our
+work, instead of passing on to Ixcuintepec. As it was, we spent the
+night, and were well treated. Leaving early in the morning, we
+hurried to Quezaltepec for dinner, the road being better than we had
+anticipated. The town is prettily distributed upon a curved crest; the
+houses are neat, built of adobe or of poles daubed with mud. Much fruit
+is grown here, and coffee is an important crop. In almost every yard
+mats were spread out, on which coffee was drying, or being sorted by
+people squatting on the ground. Considerable cotton is woven at this
+point.
+
+Leaving at 3:40, the evening ride through the forest was magnificent.
+The flora was such as we have before described. As we rode through the
+higher forests, we constantly heard birds, notable among which were the
+_clar�ns_, with their fine clear notes. It was dark before we reached
+Camotlan. Nowhere had we been better treated. We were shown at once into
+a clean room, and were soon surrounded by bustle and preparation for our
+comfort. There are but 143 inhabitants, of whom six--four men and two
+women--have goitres. We had been previously informed that the whole town
+was goitrous. There were three deaf-mutes, but no idiots, in the town.
+Inquiring for books printed in the Mixe tongue, we were informed that
+the choir-master had one. On expressing my desire to see it, they sent
+to bring him. We were astonished at his appearance. The messengers who
+brought him carried him in their arms, and set him down upon the floor,
+when we saw that he had been born without legs, and with sadly deformed
+arms and hands. Yet, when once placed upon the floor, he moved about
+easily, and had a cheery face and sunny temper. He was delighted to show
+us his book and took the greatest pride in reading from it. It is truly
+remarkable that he can do this. The book was written in the dialect of
+Juquila of more than 170 years ago. The dialect of Juquila was no doubt
+then different from that of Camotlan, and during the 170 years there
+have been great changes, even in that town itself. As I watched the
+man read from his book, I noticed that he pronounced parts of words
+differently from the way in which they were spelled; how he had worked
+out for himself, unaided, the proper meaning and purport of the words
+was a mystery. I had intended to purchase the book, but found him so
+attached to it that I gave up the plan. Had he been a normal man, I
+should have insisted; but then, if he had been a normal man, he would
+not have had the book nor known how to read it.
+
+From Camotlan we rode steadily for five hours to reach Ixcuintepec.
+There were considerable stretches of slippery road to be passed. The two
+gorge rides, the bridges of vines, and the houses along the way, were
+beautiful as ever, but the magnificent mountain forests were left
+entirely behind us. The old church at Ixcuintepec is visible on the high
+crest for a considerable distance. As we made the final climb, the boys
+noticed in the trees structures one and a half feet or two feet in
+diameter, and somewhat dome-shaped. I should have taken them for wasps'
+nests, but the party insisted that they saw parrots come out of them,
+and that no doubt young parrots were in the nests. Immediately there was
+great excitement, for Manuel had all along wanted to capture a parrot to
+take home with him. The party stopped, and stones were thrown to drive
+out the birds, but with no result. Finally Mariano climbed the tree,
+creeping out along the branches almost to the nest; just at that moment
+an unusually well-aimed stone struck the nest, but instead of parrots,
+out streamed a great cloud of wasps, which flew straight towards the
+_mozo_, who lost no time in getting down from his precarious position.
+
+[Illustration: VIEW IN QUEZALTEPEC]
+
+We found Ixcuintepec almost deserted; hardly any of the town officials
+were there. Almost everyone was off, working in the coffee _fincas_.
+We quickly saw that we had made a great mistake in waiting for our
+remaining subjects until this town. Not only were men conspicuous by
+their absence, but the women were extremely hostile. They objected to
+our photographing their houses or themselves. They drove the messenger
+whom I had sent to measure a house, for the purpose of making a
+miniature reproduction, off the premises with clubs. The _mozos_, who
+had accompanied us thus far, had no intention of going farther, and the
+problem of getting carriers--which had troubled us ever since we had
+left Mitla--assumed serious proportions. It was with great difficulty
+and much bluster that we secured the food we needed and the _mozos_.
+When the _mozos_ came, three out of the four whom it was necessary
+for us to employ, were mere boys, the heartiest and best of whom was
+scarcely ten years old. In vain we declared that it was impossible for
+such little fellows to carry the burdens that needed transportation. It
+was plain that they were our only resource. Starting the three boys
+upon a short cut to San Miguel, the oldest _mozo_ and ourselves went by
+another road to Coatlan. It was fortunate for us that the school-teacher
+at this town was interested in our work. We took possession of the
+schoolhouse, showed our orders to the officials, and, after much
+difficulty, obtained our wishes. The town was almost as deserted as had
+been Ixcuintepec, but after infinite difficulty, we succeeded in getting
+sufficient subjects to complete our work.
+
+We had thought ourselves unfortunate at Ixcuintepec and Coatlan; the
+worst lay before us. We found San Miguel deserted. Our three _mozos_ who
+had been paid, and ordered to go simply to that village, and there to
+leave our things, had left before we arrived. The man who had come with
+us, we had dismissed before we realized conditions. The coffee had
+been gathered for the season; the chief man of the place was in the
+mountains; there was no town government; neither prayers, threats, nor
+bribes produced food for ourselves and our horses; two or three men
+around the place would not be hired as _mozos_. We finally were forced
+to leave our busts, plaster, photographic outfit and plates on a bench
+under an open shed, and go on alone to Santiago Guevea. It was a bitter
+disappointment, because our previous experience at San Miguel had been
+so pleasant and interesting.
+
+When we left Coatlan that morning, it had been through clouds and
+drizzling rain. When we passed through San Miguel, conditions were but
+little better. From there, we went through a gorge road, everywhere
+passing little plantations of coffee, bananas, and tobacco. Finally, we
+began our last mountain or forest climb. The wind with the rain became
+colder and more penetrating. At the summit, we found a typical norther
+raging, and at points our animals and ourselves were almost blown from
+the crest. In good weather the road is long, but through this it was
+dreadful. Few towns compare in beauty of location, and appearance from
+a distance, with Santiago Guevea. It was nearly five when we drew up in
+front of the crowded town-house. It will be remembered that this town is
+Zapotec, Coatlan being the last Mixe town. The school-teacher interested
+himself in our welfare, securing for us a real sleeping-room with cots,
+putting our horses into the corridor of the schoolhouse, and arranging
+for our meals. Chocolate and bread were at once furnished, and at eight
+o'clock a good supper was sent to our room. In the _plaza_ outside, the
+wind was blowing a hurricane and the cold cut like a knife; but the
+house in which we slept was tight and warm. In the morning, we found the
+wild weather still continuing. It had been out of the question to send
+_mozos_ to San Miguel the night before, and it seemed wicked to start
+them out in such a storm of wind, fog, rain and cold. Still, our time
+was precious, and we ordered men sent to the place where our stuff had
+been left, to fetch it; meanwhile, we decided to wait until they should
+appear. Our animals had had nothing to eat the previous day, except a
+little corn we had brought with us from Coatlan. We therefore ordered
+_zacate_ brought for them. The night before, I had inquired regarding
+the acquaintances we had made at San Miguel in our previous trip. I
+learned that the man had died less than a month before, but that the
+widow, the four boys and the little girl, having finished their work at
+the coffee _finca_ at San Miguel, were in town. Accordingly we called
+at the house. The woman immediately recognized me, and asked after Don
+Ernesto. The boys were sleeping, bedded on piles of coffee, but were
+routed from their slumber to greet us. At first, none of them remembered
+me, but the little girl did, and soon Castolo also. Their house was
+comfortable, and piles of corn, coffee, and bananas were stacked up in
+the place. They invited us to stop with them, but we were already well
+housed by the authorities. As we left, the woman went to the corner,
+and, from a pile of similar objects, took two things neatly wrapped in
+corn-husks. On opening them, we found that they were eggs, which are
+frequently wrapped in this way for storage, in all the indian towns.
+Although we had ordered food for the horses, at seven o'clock it had
+not appeared. We called at the town-house several times, but still no
+_zacate_. Our dinner came, and the afternoon passed, but still no fodder
+for the horses was produced, and the poor animals had eaten nothing,
+practically, for two whole days, although subjected to hard work and the
+pelting storm. We anxiously watched for the coming of the _mozos_ with
+our equipment. The storm, though still raging, was abating, and we could
+see well down the road. When, at half past three in the afternoon, there
+was no sign of either men or fodder, we called the town authorities to
+account. We told them that we would wait no longer in a town where our
+animals could only starve; that they must forward our boxes, plaster and
+busts promptly to Tehuantepec; that we should hold them responsible for
+loss or delay, and that all should be delivered at the office of the
+_jefe_. Paying no attention to their entreaties that we should wait a
+little longer for the fodder, which they promised, as they had so many
+times before, would come soon, we saddled our animals, and at 4:20 left
+the town. Just as we started, little Castolo appeared with two bunches
+of _zacate_ sent by his mother, as a present to Don Federico.
+
+Certainly, there must be a new and better road from Guevea to Santa
+Maria than the one we traversed in our other journey, and which again,
+following from memory, we used. It was a fearful trail, neglected and
+ruined, over slippery rock and rough, sharp-splintered stone. Still we
+pressed on rapidly, making even better time than we had been assured at
+the town that we might expect to make. Never were we more happy than in
+reaching Santa Maria, lovely in the moonlight, with its great church,
+fine municipal-house, cocoa-nut trees and thatched huts. Here was no
+sign either of the norther or the rain. The next day's journey was over
+the hot dusty road with glimpses now and then of the distant Pacific and
+Tlacotepec for destination. The following morning we pressed on toward
+Tehuantepec, through the dust and heat, reaching the city at noonday. To
+our great surprise, we found the _mozos_, with the plaster, the busts,
+and the boxes of plates, waiting for us since four o'clock in the
+morning.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII
+
+ABOUT TEHUANTEPEC (1899)
+
+
+Since our former visit to Tehuantepec, that hot and dusty city had
+suffered terrible misfortune. Through a period of several months it was
+subject to frequent shocks of earthquakes; for a time these were of
+daily occurrence, and on one occasion there were seventeen in a single
+day. The town still showed the destruction produced by these earthquake
+shocks, although for some months past there had been none. Houses,
+stores, churches, all presented great cracks and bare spots from which
+plaster had fallen. Many of the people had left the city permanently;
+those who remained were completely discouraged and unwilling to spend
+trouble and money in the repair of their houses. Tehuantepec is, of
+course, a city of considerable size; situated on a railroad, it has
+lost its importance since that thoroughfare was constructed. It was,
+formerly, the natural point through which all the produce of the
+surrounding country passed; the railroad has given similar opportunity
+to other places, to the loss of Tehuantepec. Between earthquakes, the
+damage resulting from the railroad, and the location of the military
+forces at Juchitan, not far distant, the town is declining. It is still,
+however, the _cabecera_, and the _jefe_ is a man of some force and
+vigor. Shortly after our arrival, I visited his office, delivered the
+governor's letter, and stated our purpose in visiting his city. He
+seemed interested, and at once stated that there would be no difficulty
+in carrying out my plans; that I would find plenty of women for
+measurement in Tehuantepec itself; that the 100 men had better be
+secured at San Blas, which, although independent in government, adjoins
+Tehuantepec. I suggested that it would be well to measure the women in
+the court-yard of his palace; he, however, replied, "By no means; it
+will be much better to go directly to the market, where the women are
+gathered in great numbers; a _regidor_ will accompany you to arrange the
+matter with your subjects."
+
+Although convinced that his plan was bad, we arranged to begin work the
+following morning; with instruments and _regidor_ we presented ourselves
+in the market, picking out a suitable spot and preparing for work. Then
+I told the _regidor_ to bring a subject. The market-place was crowded,
+probably two or three hundred women being there gathered. Approaching
+the nearest of them, the _regidor_ politely asked her to step up and
+be measured. We were not, however, dealing with Triquis. The women of
+Tehuantepec are certainly the heads of their houses; the men occupy
+but an inferior position. Possibly, they are really larger than their
+husbands, but, whether that be true or not, they give that impression to
+the spectator. The lady indicated lost no time in assuring the
+_regidor_ that she had no intention of being measured, and he returned
+crest-fallen to report results. He met with no sympathy. I told him he
+had been sent to bring the women, that my business was simply to measure
+them; that if he would do his duty, I would do mine. He made two other
+efforts, equally futile, and finally returning, said he thought an order
+would be necessary. I told him, if he had not already an order I did not
+know what an order was; that the _jefe_ had distinctly told me what he
+was to do; that he was not doing it. He then said he had better go to
+the palace a moment; would I kindly wait. I waited. He soon reappeared,
+and started in bravely with a new subject, but was again repulsed.
+Returning, he said that we had better go up to the palace and interview
+the _jefe_ again. I replied that I had no time to spare; that we had
+already lost two hours at the palace, waiting for the _jefe_ to appear,
+and that I did not propose to lose more time; that he knew what I
+expected, and must either do it, or I would return to my hotel. He
+helplessly remarked that we had better see the _jefe_, whereupon
+I picked up my instruments and departed to the hotel. Leaving my
+instruments at the hotel, I decided, while matters were adjusting
+themselves--for I had no thought of bothering myself further--to call
+upon the bishop. Sallying from the hotel, I met upon the street the
+_regidor_ and two other town officials, who were awaiting me. "Sir,"
+said he, "will you not measure the women?" "No," said I, "I am going to
+call upon the bishop. I have no time to waste. We went once to measure
+the women, but you had no power; your _jefe_ plainly is a man without
+authority." "No, sir," cried he, "the _jefe_ has issued a strict order
+that the women must be measured." "No matter," I replied, "I have no
+time to waste. I shall make my call." With this I entered the bishop's
+palace, and had an interesting visit with that prelate. When leaving
+the palace, I found the _regidor_ and four town officials, awaiting
+my appearance. He at once demanded whether it was not my intention to
+measure the women. He said that he had been to see the _jefe_, and that
+the _jefe_ said my wishes must be obeyed. I asked him where it was
+proposed to measure the women, and he replied that it should be wherever
+I pleased. "Very good," said I. "We will measure them in the court-yard
+of the _jefe's_ palace; have subjects brought there at once, and send a
+man to my hotel for my instruments."
+
+To the palace we went, and thither shortly four policemen brought a
+woman from the market. With bad grace, she submitted to be measured,
+after which the four policemen went again to the market, and soon
+after reappeared with a second subject. So the work went on, with four
+policemen to each woman, until our full number was finally secured and
+the work completed.
+
+Three years ago, on my return from Guatemala, I met in this city an
+English doctor named Castle, who has lived here for many years--a man
+of scientific tastes and interests, who has employed his leisure in
+studying the botany, zoology, and indians of the district. He is
+well-informed, and one of the few persons acquainted with the Juaves. I
+counted on his help in approaching that curious and little-known tribe.
+The doctor's house is full of pets; eight different kinds of parrots,
+a red and yellow macaw, a brilliant-billed, dark-plumaged toucan, an
+angora goat, a raccoon, dogs and cats, are a part of the happy family
+that prowls at large in his house. A little creature, an indian, no more
+than eight years old, has adopted the doctor for her father. She
+had come to him as a patient for a trouble by no means uncommon
+here--night-blindness; in caring for her, he gained the little
+creature's heart, and she will hardly hear of leaving him to return
+home. The doctor accompanied us on our first visit to San Blas, and told
+us many things, not only of the Juaves, but of the Zapotecs and other
+indians of the region.
+
+From the hotel, in the heart of Tehuantepec, to the town-house of San
+Blas, is a walk of only twenty minutes. Here for three days we did
+our work, returning to our hotel for meals and lodging. The work went
+easily, the men presenting little or no objection to our operations;
+measurements, busts, portraits--all were taken. On the whole, the
+Tehuantepecanos do not present a simple, pure indian type. The women
+seemed to be purer than the men. The _secretario_ at San Blas has been
+to school. He is one of the few indians of the district who has taken an
+interest in the study of his native tongue. He has already published a
+grammar of the Zapotec, as spoken in his village. He has also printed a
+little tract for lovers, in which high-sounding phrases are translated
+from the Spanish into Zapotec. He has also prepared, and holds in
+manuscript, a dictionary of the dialect containing some 4,000 words.
+
+The visit to the Juaves we considered one of the most important and
+interesting of our journey. These people are conservative, and among
+the least known of the native populations of Mexico. There are but four
+towns, with a total population of probably less than three thousand
+persons. These towns are situated at a few leagues' distance from
+Tehuantepec, near the Pacific, upon narrow tongues of land, washed by
+salt lagoons. The nearest, largest, and according to Dr. Castle, the
+most conservative of the four towns, is San Mateo del Mar. We had hoped
+that Dr. Castle might accompany us on our journey. This, however, was
+impossible, but he suggested that he would go with us part of the way.
+To avoid the great heat, we travelled by night, as there was moonlight.
+Hiring a _carretero_ at San Blas, we loaded our materials and
+instruments into the cart, and started it upon its way. At about four
+o'clock in the afternoon, we rode from Tehuantepec, taking a roundabout
+road in order to see the hill which gives name to the town. It was
+Sunday, and many women and girls had been visiting the cemetery,
+carrying bowls filled with flowers to put upon the graves of friends. We
+saw numbers of young fellows sitting by the roadside, and learned that
+they were the lovers of the young women, awaiting their return from the
+cemetery.
+
+The name Tehuantepec means the mountain of man-eaters. These man-eaters
+were not men, but tigers, or ocelots. The story runs that long ago this
+mountain was infested with wild beasts who destroyed the people of the
+neighboring villages. Fearing extermination, the people of the town
+decided to consult the Juaves, who were famous for their _naguales_, or
+witches. The oldest and most skilled _nagu�l_ of the tribe was employed.
+Having performed his incantations, he told them they might expect
+immediate deliverance; that he had conjured a deliverer from the sea.
+Soon there came forth from the water a gigantic turtle, who made his way
+slowly inland, until he reached the bottom of the hill, which was the
+home of the tigers. The dangerous animals were just descending from
+the mountain in a double line, but the moment they caught sight of the
+mammoth sea-monster, their bodies froze with terror and they were turned
+to stone. Terrified at the power of the creature he had conjured, the
+old _nagu�l_ quickly made use of his most powerful incantation, with the
+result that the turtle also was transformed into stone. The proof of the
+truth of the story we saw in the lines of stone tigers on the mountain
+side and the stone turtle at the foot of the hill, as we rode by.
+
+The doctor suggested that it would be well to take a guide with us from
+San Blas as far as Huilotepec, as there were many side-roads before
+we reached that town, and that, from there, we would need no help. We
+followed his suggestion. The road was almost level. It passed through a
+district covered with a dense growth of brush and thorny trees, except
+where the land had been plowed for planting corn. In the early evening
+we saw many birds. Flocks of parrots rose from the trees as we passed
+by; at one point Manuel shot a little eagle, which fell wounded to the
+ground. Our guide concluded to carry it on alive. All went well for some
+time, but at last, with no warning, the bird made a vicious dash, and
+with its claws tore through the trousers of the guide, making a great
+gash in his leg. The man promptly decided it was better, on the whole,
+to carry it further dead than living.
+
+The doctor turned back at sunset. We reached Huilotepec something before
+eight, and found it a large pueblo with houses built of bamboo or cane.
+Here we had a good supper, and dismissing our guide started out, by
+brilliant moonlight, for the last part of our journey. Shortly beyond
+the town, the road turned, for a moment, into the river, and after
+passing for a few rods in the river-bed, struck up again onto the bank.
+At this place we made a fatal blunder. When the road went down into the
+river, supposing that we were about to ford, we kept straight across the
+stream. Finding a road upon the other side we had no suspicion but what
+we were going well and travelled onward. For a long time we found trails
+of varying degree of badness. Sometimes the branches formed a complete
+tangle which, even in the daytime, would have required careful watching.
+As it was, the faces of the party were well scratched with thorns.
+Sometimes, we seemed to be on a good road; at others, we had hardly
+found a trail. At one place we passed a ranch--Corral de San Diego. A
+host of barking dogs announced our coming, and we cried out to the old
+man living there to tell us the road. His directions were not clear, but
+in attempting to follow them, we retraced our trail, and then struck
+into another road. Keeping to it until we really could not follow
+it further for the tangle, we retraced our steps until we came to a
+cart-road crossing that on which we were. We started first to the right
+upon this; then, concluding we were wrong, turned about and went the
+other way. We soon found ourselves off the road again, and travelling
+blindly through the brush. Coming to a round patch of clear sand, to
+which the trail on which we were seemed to have led us, we could find no
+way out. Convinced that we were hopelessly lost, we camped out upon the
+sand for the night. Fortunately we had a little corn with us which we
+gave to the horses, after which we tied them to the trees. As we lay
+upon the sand in the bright moonlight, we could hear the dashing of the
+sea waves not far away. The heat was intolerable and the mosquitoes
+venomous. We secured no rest, and, at the first signs of day, were ready
+for our start. The two boys went out to hunt a rabbit, but returned
+with most discouraging reports. While they were absent, Don Anselmo and
+myself were left in camp. Suddenly he cried out that our horses
+were running away; such was really the case. The last one was just
+disappearing in the brush and Anselmo started after them, leaving me
+to keep the camp. When the other two returned, they, too, started in
+pursuit. After a hard chase, the animals were captured and brought back.
+By seven we had mounted and were on our way. We retraced our trail of
+the night before, going back to the cart-road. A little before eight we
+came upon a ranch, the Ranchito del Boca del Rio. Here we asked our way,
+and found that we were still as far from San Mateo, as when we left
+Huilotepec the night before. Eating a light breakfast, we secured a
+guide who took us, by the shortest way across the river, back to the
+main trail for San Mateo, where he left us. The road was long and hot
+and sandy. Our horses could hardly keep up a decent walk. It seemed that
+we would never reach the town. More than an hour before we arrived at
+the town, we encountered little ranches belonging to it. Everywhere we
+saw flocks of sheep, cows and horses. Curiously, the Juaves have always
+had herds, since our first records of them, but they eat no meat. The
+country was more tropical than any through which we had passed. Clumps
+of palm trees were to be seen here and there. Pools of standing water,
+where horses and cattle stood cooling themselves, were frequent. The
+people whom we met wore little clothing. Men frequently had nothing but
+the breech-clout and hat. Women wore a skirt, but no upper garment.
+Children up to ten and twelve years of age ran naked. Reaching San Mateo
+at twelve o'clock, we found the village excited at our non-appearance.
+Our _carretero_ had arrived long before with our luggage. He had told
+the _presidente_ of our intended coming, and men from the town had been
+sent through the by-roads to seek for us. The town lies on a level
+stretch of sand, and the houses are built of canes and thatched with
+palm. Most of the trees in the village are palms; some, cocoa palms. The
+_plaza_ is a large open space. On one side of it is the church, of stone
+and brick; on another side is the town-building made of brick, covered
+with plaster, and consisting of three portions,--the _presidencia,
+curato_, and jail. A brick-paved corridor, roofed above, runs before
+the whole building. We were given the jail and _presidencia_ with the
+corridor. Here hammocks and a bed of palm stalks were prepared for us,
+and orders issued that eggs and _tortillas_ should be brought us. The
+Juaves raise no crops. They are fishermen, and their food and living
+come from the sea. Their dried fish and shrimps, and the salt, which
+they make from the brine-soaked bottoms of dried lagoons, go far and
+wide through the country, and for these they get in trade the corn,
+coffee, chocolate, and raw cotton which they need. We have already
+spoken of their cattle, which is a source of income, though, as stated
+before, the Juaves rarely eat meat food.
+
+[Illustration: JUAVE INDIANS; SAN MATEO DEL MAR]
+
+[Illustration: JUAVE FISHERMAN: SAN MATEO DEL MAR]
+
+The Juaves present a well-defined physical type. They are of medium
+stature or tall. Their noses are the largest and most prominent in
+indian Mexico, and are boldly aquiline. The men are rarely idle; even
+as they walk, they carry with them their netting, or spindle with which
+they spin cord for making nets. It seems to be law, and is certainly
+custom, that persons coming to the _plaza_ are expected to be more fully
+dressed than when travelling on the road or when in their homes. Usually
+white cotton drawers and shirt are worn in the _plaza_; outside,
+practically nothing but the breech-clout.
+
+There is an interesting commerce carried on in Juave towns by Zapotec
+traders from Juchitan. As might be expected, this is entirely in the
+hands of women. Some women make two journeys weekly between the two
+towns. They come in ox-carts, with loads of corn, fodder, coffee,
+chocolate, cotton and the like. These they trade or sell. When they
+return to Juchitan, they carry with them a lot of salted and dried
+fish, shrimps, salt and eggs. Upon these expeditions the whole family
+accompanies the woman; the traveling is done almost entirely by night.
+These Zapotec women are shrewd at bargaining. They must be doing a
+paying business. It was interesting to see the primitive devices for
+weighing. The scales consisted of two tin pans of equal size and weight
+hung from a balance beam. The only weight was a stone weighing a pound.
+In case a Juave woman wished to buy a quarter-of-a-pound of cotton, the
+procedure was as follows: The weight was put into one pan of the scales
+and a pound of cotton weighed out into the other; the weight was then
+removed and the cotton divided, so as to balance in the two pans; one of
+the pans was then emptied, and the remaining cotton again divided, with
+the result that a quarter-of-a-pound of cotton had been weighed.
+
+One curious feature, which we had not seen elsewhere, but which Dr.
+Castle had warned us we should find, was the nightly guard set upon us.
+As we lay upon our beds at night, looking out upon the white sand in
+front of us, we could see, by the moonlight, at some little distance,
+a circle of eight or ten men who spent the night sleeping within call.
+Another striking feature was the music which we heard in the late
+evening and early morning. In the early morning, five o'clock or
+earlier, and at sunset, there was service in the church. Later on, at
+eight, there was again singing in the churchyard, lasting until quite
+a late hour. One evening, on investigating, we found eight or ten men
+kneeling on the sand before the church door, singing in the moonlight.
+They were practicing for the procession and special service of the
+second Friday of Lent.
+
+The water-life of the Juaves is at once picturesque and curiously tame.
+The men spend much of their time on or in the water. They make great
+dugout canoes from large tree trunks. There are usually no paddles, but
+poles are used to propel the craft sluggishly over the waters of the
+lagoon. Few of the men can swim. The fish are chiefly caught with nets,
+and both seines and throw nets are used. The lagoons are said to abound
+in alligators, and the men, when fishing, generally carry with them
+spears with long iron points which are said to be used for protection
+against attacks of these reptiles. Great respect is shown the alligator,
+and curious superstitions prevail regarding it.
+
+Between San Mateo and the nearest of the great lagoons, the country
+ceases to be level and is covered with sand dunes. On these dunes there
+are great numbers of hares of a species peculiar to the locality. They
+make excellent eating, and Manuel kept our larder supplied with fresh
+meat, which was welcome, and which we could not otherwise have had among
+these non-meat-eating folk. An old Zapotec woman, seventy years of age,
+with snowy hair and gentle face, was deputed by the town authorities to
+do our cooking. Her relatives live in Juchitan, and why she had chosen
+to live among these people I do not know. She took a motherly interest
+in all our party. Nothing was too good for us. She spent her whole time
+in hunting supplies and cooking and serving food. Not only did she
+insist on all our purchases being supplied at cheapest rates, but her
+own charge for help and service was ridiculously small. From early
+morning until late at night the poor old soul was busy in our behalf. On
+our leaving, she took my hands between her own, and kissing them, begged
+that we would send her a picture as a remembrance.
+
+The road to Tehuantepec at night was one of no adventure. We were
+impressed with the great number of families travelling in ox-carts over
+these roads in the cool night air. It was a custom and habit of which we
+had before no realization. It lacked but ten minutes of one o'clock when
+finally we rode up to the hotel in Tehuantepec. From the hostler we
+learned that every room was full,--five persons in some cases sleeping
+in a single room. So we were compelled to lie down upon the porch
+outside until the morning.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV
+
+ON THE MAIN HIGH-ROAD
+
+(1899)
+
+
+After a day or two of rest, we started from Tehuantepec upon our return
+to Oaxaca. For the first time, we were to follow the usually travelled
+high-road. Our hearts failed us, as we thought of thus neglecting the
+lovely land of the Mixes, but it was on our program to see the Chontals.
+Starting at seven, we lost a little time in having a photograph of our
+party taken as we left the city, so that it was really 8:15 before we
+were on our way. Our plaster had been sent by _carreta_ to Xalapa. We
+had a hot, hot, hot ride over a heavy, difficult sand road. At least
+half a dozen times we forded the Tehuantepec river, and everywhere at
+places which would have justified the name, Xalapa, "the sandy water."
+Finally, arriving at Xalapa at four o'clock, we found it a large
+town, of the usual hot, dusty Zapotec kind. The authorities bestirred
+themselves vigorously to locate us in comfortable quarters, with an old
+lady of regal appearance and dignity. From the start, we feared that
+this royal appearance and dignity would be paid for, but the opportunity
+for comfort was not to be neglected. One of the houses of her royal
+domain was vacated for our use, and two good cots and a hammock were put
+at our disposal. The supper was abundant, and capital in quality, and
+there was plenty of food for the horses. Strolling down to the river
+after supper we found it broad but very shallow; it did not reach our
+knees at any point, when we waded across it; the bottom was, as we
+imagined it would be from the name, moving sand. After a bath in the
+much too shallow stream for swimming, we returned refreshed to our
+comfortable beds. As anticipated, we found the bill, when presented in
+the morning, truly regal; after some demur, our queenly hostess reduced
+it slightly, but, even so, we were reminded of the summer-resorts of our
+own country.
+
+Tequixistlan, perhaps the largest of the Chontal towns, we found without
+an official head. While we were in Tehuantepec the _jefe_ received
+notice of his father's death. This notice had been duly sent to all
+the villages and towns within the district, and, on a certain day, the
+_presidente_ and other chief officers of the different pueblos gathered
+at Tehuantepec to express their sympathy by speeches and to present
+flowers to the official. It was for this errand that the _presidente_ of
+Tequixistlan had gone to the _cabecera_. Had he been at home, perhaps
+we would have had no difficulty, but as it was we found the government
+disjointed and nerveless. Constant nagging and harrying were necessary
+in carrying out our wishes. The town itself was not bad. It stands upon
+a sort of terrace, at a little height above the neighboring river. The
+town-house is a long building, occupying the whole upper end of the
+large rectangular _plaza_; at the lower end is the fine church and
+_curato_. Along the sides were _tiendas_, school, etc., well built
+adobes and plastered over with tinted plaster. Behind the church beyond
+the river rises a handsome background of mountains. The long corridor in
+front of the municipal-house was fine and broad, with a high roof and
+brick pavement. Oleanders bloomed before this corridor. The view from
+it was fine, and the air cool there even in the middle of the day. We
+accordingly took possession of it, working and sleeping there. So far
+as personal comfort was concerned, we were well cared for. We had good
+meals, comfortable cots, plenty of food for the horses, but, as we have
+said, the work lagged, and it was only with the greatest difficulty that
+we could accomplish it.
+
+There is little distinctive about the Chontals, as we saw them. The
+women dress much like the Zapotec women in the neighboring towns. The
+men present nothing notable in dress. Outside the _plaza_, the houses
+were built of light materials, and resembled the ordinary cane-walled,
+thatched huts of the Zapotecs. The people appeared to be badly mixed,
+and this not only with white, but also with negro blood. Nevertheless,
+as we worked upon subject after subject, a fairly defined type seemed
+to grow upon us. We could see that the Chontals are tall, with rather
+well-shaped faces, though somewhat high cheek-bones, with light
+complexions, and with wavy or curly hair. When the work was finished,
+we had great difficulty in securing carriers to bear our burdens to San
+Bartolo. Enormous prices were demanded, and at last, angry over the
+attempted extortion, we threatened to leave all our stuff behind us, and
+hold the town responsible, reporting them to the authorities when we
+should reach Oaxaca, demanding that damages should be collected. These
+threats had the desired effect. The _secretario_, who had been the only
+member of the town government displaying energy in our behalf, promised
+by all that was sacred that our goods should be delivered promptly at
+San Bartolo; that if they were not already there on our arrival,
+we might safely arrange for further transportation from that town,
+convinced that the goods would come before we left.
+
+That we might not be too much delayed by this palaver regarding
+carriers, I had started the balance of the party ahead, and rode on
+alone after them. They had left at 10:15, and we all had a hot, dry,
+dusty, thirsty mountain ride until five o'clock in the afternoon, when
+we reached the ranch, Las Vacas. It consisted of a dozen houses. We
+rode to the last one in the place, which consisted of brush and leafy
+branches, and had an enclosed _corral_ adjoining it, where we asked
+for lodging. The owner was a young Zapotec, who, with his wife, was
+strikingly neat and clean. A little girl of seven was the only other
+member of the family. The house had but a single room, but there was a
+_coro_, or cane platform, and loft. Having fed our horses and eaten our
+own supper, I mounted to the loft, despite the advice of all the members
+of the party, who predicted smoke, heat, mosquitoes, fleas and other
+trials. They stayed below. There is no question that they fared worse
+from all the sources mentioned than myself. The woman worked until
+midnight, making _tortillas_ and cooking chicken for us to carry as
+luncheon on the road. We had started by four in the morning, and
+pushed along over a mountain road. The first portion of the road was
+well-watered, but afterward it became hot, dry, and stony. Having gained
+the pass looking down upon the valley, we could see, at its further
+side, lying on a terrace, the pueblo of San Bartolo, stretching out in
+a long line near the front of a mighty mountain, upon which plainly our
+way would pass. It was almost noon when we reached the municipal-house,
+and found that our carriers had already arrived, and left the luggage.
+Here things were really quite as bad as at Tequixistlan, but here
+fortunately we had no work to do. The town was Zapotec. One might
+suppose, from its being upon the main high-road, that they would be
+accustomed to see strangers. We have hardly found a population at once
+so stupid and timid. It was with great difficulty that we found food
+to eat. Here we had to pay for beds (made of sticks tied together),
+belonging to the municipality, a thing which we had never done at any
+other town in Mexico.
+
+[Illustration: VIEW FROM OUR CORRIDOR; SAN BARTOLO]
+
+The people wear curious and characteristic garments.
+
+All the stuff used for clothing is woven in the town, and not only the
+women's _camisas_, but the men's _camisas_ and trousers, are decorated
+with elaborate designs--birds, animals, and geometrical figures--worked
+in various colors. Even in purchasing examples of these clothes, we were
+compelled to make a vigorous display of our civil and religious orders.
+After some bickering, we arranged for carriers to San Carlos, which is
+the _cabecera_ of the district. Starting by moonlight, at two o'clock in
+the morning, we struck out over the enormous mountain mass to which we
+have already referred. Roads in the Zapotec country do not go directly
+up the hillside, as in the land of the Mixes, but zigzag by gentle
+diagonals up the slopes. The road was largely composed of jagged rock;
+two hours and fifteen minutes were necessary for the ascent; the descent
+was bad enough, but a distinct improvement. At one place, however,
+we wandered from the main-travelled road, and found ourselves in an
+abandoned portion of the road, full of great holes which were filled
+with drifted fallen leaves, so that their presence was not betrayed
+until our horses fell into them. The latter part of this descent was
+slippery, being over hard stone, which was worn almost to a glassy
+smoothness by the passage of many hoofs. A little before reaching
+Manteca, as we looked down from the height, we saw an immense train of
+pack-mules coming. In the good old days, before there were railroads,
+such trains as this were frequent. From Manteca the road penetrated into
+contracting valleys, until finally it might, with propriety, be called a
+ca�on road. At half past eight we reached San Carlos, a mean town with
+no _meson_ or other regular stopping-place. We left the horses under
+the shady trees with the old farrier. While we rested and waited for
+breakfast, I called upon the _jefe politico_, who had received several
+communications from me, and had become interested in my work. Our
+luggage was all at his office, and he promptly made arrangements for its
+further transportation. At breakfast, we received the cheerful news
+that Mr. Lang's horse had the lockjaw and showed signs of dying. On
+inspection, this proved to be quite true; the poor animal was in great
+pain, and could eat nothing, though making every effort to do so. Our
+first thought was a shot in the head to put it out of misery, but the
+old farrier wished to try a _remedio_. He did his best, and it looked as
+if the animal might recover; it was plain, however, that he could not be
+used again that afternoon. Accordingly, an extra horse was rented for
+Mr. Lang's use. The remainder of the party was started on the road at
+1:50, while I waited to give the _remedio_ a chance to operate and the
+beast an opportunity to rest. At three I started, leading the sick
+horse. We had a fine ride in the cool of the evening, over a mountain
+road past the little ranch El Quemado, beyond which we found an immense
+ascent. When we reached the summit, it was fast darkening, and I
+pressed on as rapidly as the led horse would permit. Finally, I reached
+Escondido at seven. Several large parties of packers, with their trains
+of mules, had already settled for the night; camp-fires were burning.
+Here and there drinking had been going on, and there was noise of loud
+laughter, singing and dancing. Our party was already eating supper when
+I arrived, and my own meal had been ordered. Shelter was supplied
+us adjoining the house, where we spread our blankets and spent a
+comfortable night. We were late in starting, and were not upon the road
+until seven in the morning. We found the high-road most uninteresting.
+For long distances we descended, passing a ranch and emerging finally
+into a deep, hot gorge. By the time we reached Pichones we were tired,
+hot and thirsty. There, however, we could get no water, for man or
+beast, for love or money; suffering with thirst, the road seemed long to
+the river near Totolapa, where we refreshed ourselves with water, but a
+heavier road than ever had to be traversed. Much of the way we followed
+the stream-bed, fording repeatedly; the remainder was through deep sand
+and over rolling pebbles. Passing Juanico, on a high bank overlooking
+the river, at noonday, we were delighted to strike upon a rock road,
+high on the river bank. Keeping to this trail, passing from plantations
+of bananas lying at the river level below us and catching many pretty
+views of valley and of mountain, we at last reached Totolapa, completely
+worn out with the journey and the heat. Here we rested until the heat of
+the day should be past.
+
+[Illustration: OUR PARTY LEAVING TEHUANTEPEC]
+
+[Illustration: ZAPOTEC WOMEN AND GIRLS, TLACOLULA]
+
+We had expected at this town to secure a muleteer, as the one we hired
+from San Carlos had agreed to come only to this town. Here, too, we had
+expected to rent a new horse for Mr. Lang. Our muleteer, however, was
+much taken with the party, and declared that he should hire himself to
+continue with us to Tlacolula. We quickly arranged with him, and at four
+o'clock prepared to leave. The sick horse was then at its worst; it had
+lain down, and for a time we believed it was really dead; it was out of
+the question for it to go further; so, calling one of the villagers, I
+told him that he might have the horse, and if there was any possibility
+of curing, it, he should do what might be necessary.
+
+From four to seven it was a tiresome climb, largely through stream-beds
+to Carvajal. It is a large _rancho_, but we stopped at the first house
+we came to, a miserable place, where, however, we got coffee, bread,
+beans and eggs, and some mats for beds, which we laid out upon the
+ground, under the open sky. Taking early coffee and _tortillas_, we were
+again mounted at four and on our way. It was the last ascent. The moon
+was shining brightly, and we could see that the road followed the edge
+of a fine gorge. When we once reached the summit, there was no further
+descent to make. We were on the high, flat, table-land of Oaxaca, and
+from here to the capital city of the state, the road is level, and
+passes through a rich agricultural district. Passing San Dionisio at
+seven, we pressed on as rapidly as possible to Tlacolula, where we
+arrived before noon, ready for the good meals and comfortable quarters
+which we well knew awaited us there.
+
+Tlacolula is a large town, in the midst of a dusty valley. Its houses
+are large, rectangular constructions, well built of poles, with fine
+thatched roofs. They stand in yards, which are enclosed by fences of
+organ-pipe cactus. The people dress well, and at almost every house they
+own an ox-cart and a yoke of animals. While photographing there that
+afternoon, we suggested that we wanted a group of girls and women in
+native dress. "Very well; I will take you to the house, where you can
+get one." Arrived there, the policeman at once led out five women and
+four children, whom he placed in line. After the picture was taken, we
+expressed our satisfaction and surprise that so good a group had been so
+readily secured at a single house. "Oh, sir," he replied, "we struck a
+lucky time; there is a funeral going on there."
+
+[Illustration: IN THE HOT VALLEY; CUICATLAN]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XV
+
+CUICATLAN
+
+(1899)
+
+
+Between Tehuacan and Oaxaca the railroad passes through a low, deep
+valley which is ever hot. Few people on the train pass through this
+valley without feeling its depressing influence. It would seem that
+travelers would hardly stop at stations within its limits, unless
+impelled by actual necessity. The most important of the towns in this
+valley is Cuicatlan. Little of it is to be seen from the railroad, but
+in reality it is a notably picturesque village.
+
+It is the _cabecera_ of a district in which dwell three most interesting
+tribes--the Cuicatecs, Chinantecs, and Mazatecs. We had time to visit
+only the nearest of the Cuicatec towns. Cuicatlan itself is situated
+near one side of a valley, through which runs a considerable stream. The
+distant bank rises in two magnificent mountain masses. The nearer bank,
+at the very base of which the town nestles on a series of little hills,
+rises into almost sheer precipices of purple conglomerate. These cliffs
+are hundreds of feet high, and are, apparently, due to a gigantic
+landslide. The mass which fell must have measured fully two miles in
+length, and still lies, broken and heaped up, at the base of the cliffs.
+The face of the cliffs, and the fallen masses of rock at its base, are
+cut into narrow gullies and gaps by water. The town consists of several
+clusters of houses, scaled along the slopes of little hillocks and
+settled into the spaces between them. Gigantic cactuses surround the
+town, and cocoa palms rise to great heights within it.
+
+It is customary for travelers to emphasize the slowness of the Mexicans.
+Either we have been exceptionally fortunate, or the reputation is
+largely undeserved. We have been rarely delayed by sluggish action.
+Here, however, we found a _jefe_ who would surely satisfy the most
+complaining. He was mild in manner, gentle in speech, fond of brilliant
+plans and schemes, all of which, however, were to be put in operation
+to-morrow and not to-day. It was with difficulty that we impressed upon
+him our necessity. We told him that we wanted animals to carry us to
+Papalo. In reply, he told us that Papalo was but a poor town, and he
+outlined a journey the traveling alone in which would occupy some
+eight or ten days. When we assured him that we had no time for such an
+enterprise, he said that it would be much better for the towns to come
+to us in Cuicatlan. He proposed sending to-morrow to those towns, and
+assured us that, at the end of a week's time, we would have all the
+subjects we needed. So, when we suggested that this, too, was loss of
+time, he had other brilliant plans, all quite as useless. With the
+utmost difficulty we finally succeeded in getting him to arrange for
+animals to go to Papalo. From the very start, the road was up-hill.
+Passing first through a section covered with a magnificent growth of
+tree cactuses of two species, in fine fruit and flower, we found the
+vegetation varied as we mounted, and at last came up among the pines.
+There was a great variety of landscape and geological formation.
+Purple-red conglomerate, with horizontal layers weathered into massive
+forms; granitic schistose rocks, over which we later passed, gave their
+peculiar scenic outlines. We climbed steadily for fully four hours,
+and then looked down, along a gently sloping hill trail, to our town,
+perched upon a slightly lower hill. Just at the edge of the town, we
+passed a gang of men and boys at work, making a level platform for the
+new _plaza_ and town-house. We congratulated ourselves that we should
+have no difficulty, here, in finding subjects. The town claimed three
+thousand population. Many of them were certainly away upon their fields
+and ranches, scattered through the mountains, and working _fincas_ for
+wealthy landowners. The town itself is picturesque in the extreme.
+Notable among its features is the ruined church, the roof of which has
+fallen in; the walls still stand, bare and broken, but the decorations,
+some richly carved and gilded, are still unmoved within the
+demolished edifice. The damage was recent, and represented a double
+catastrophe--lightning and earthquake.
+
+[Illustration: CACTUS; CUICATLAN]
+
+We could not begin work until the _mozo_ came with the instruments.
+Finally, at four o'clock in the afternoon, we began measuring with no
+great difficulty. Before night, fifteen subjects had passed through our
+hands and one bust had been made. Even when we arrived, at midday, it
+was too cold for us to stay with comfort in the town-house, though it
+was hot enough outside in the sunshine. When night came, it was bitter
+cold, and we went to bed early in hope of keeping warm, a hope without
+foundation. Early the next morning, we were ready for our work. Every
+one had disappeared, except those whom we had measured the night before.
+We requested the town authorities to bring in subjects. A few stragglers
+were dragged in and measured, and some pictures taken. Notwithstanding
+the poor way in which they had done their work, the policemen struck,
+declaring that they would not bring others until they had been paid. It
+was plain the town needed a lesson. We promptly paid the demand made
+upon us, and, then, calling the _presidente_ and the _secretario_,
+we told them that we must have a receipt for the payment to show the
+_jefe_. We said that such a thing was unheard of; that, for town
+officials to demand pay, before they would agree to obey the order
+of their chief, was mutiny. At first they flatly refused to give the
+receipt, but after a little consultation were anxious to return the
+money, and threats were freely made to throw the whole police-force into
+jail. We said that this was not our desire; we were surprised at the
+demand, but, having met it, we insisted upon having our receipt. A
+meeting of the town authorities being held to consider the matter, our
+request was again refused, but attention was called to the fact that
+some subjects were waiting outside to be measured and photographed. I
+thereupon refused to measure or photograph any person until my demand
+had been met. I showed them, clearly, the position in which they had
+placed themselves; I stated that when they had done a wrong, and a
+stranger demanded an official statement of the case, their duty was
+simple and clear. By this time my own party was in arms; photographer,
+plaster-worker, Manuel, all were scared. They insisted that our throats
+would be cut that night. They called attention to the ugly manner and
+black looks of the town authorities. They declared that we had better
+flee, while yet there was opportunity; they insisted that they had not
+left comfortable homes to be murdered in cold blood; they begged that I
+would, at least, retreat from the position taken, and consent to measure
+the subjects who were waiting. I assured them that it was far more
+important to teach the town a lesson regarding their duty to their
+higher officials, than to measure a few indians. Finally, after hours
+of uncertainty, black looks, mutterings, and refusals, the town
+capitulated, and the receipt was in my possession. Having gained my
+point, I called the attention of the town officials to the bearings of
+the case. I emphasized their duty to the _jefe_. They knew, quite well,
+that it was out of place to demand money for obeying his order; I stated
+that I appreciated whatever work the policemen might have done, and
+that, in due season, I might have recognized it by a gift, but that
+demands were quite another thing. I showed them how important it was,
+that, when trouble rose between them and a stranger, they should furnish
+any statement of the case he might, in justice, ask. Having stated the
+matter fully, I consented to receive back the money, and tore up the
+receipt much to their relief.
+
+[Illustration:]
+
+Still the work went slowly. No one was left in town but the officials
+and some women. The latter locked and barred their doors, at the
+approach of any of the town authorities, and neither threats to burn
+their houses above their heads nor bribes would bring them forth. It was
+only after three days of hard work that eighty men and twenty-five women
+were secured. By that time, it was plain that the other men were safely
+out of reach, and we concluded that naught remained but to return to
+Cuicatlan, to complete our work with representatives from other towns.
+This we did, although we found our _jefe_ still gentle, mild, and slow.
+
+Once in the hot valley, we concluded that we might as well see more of
+it. Leaving Cuicatlan at noon, a few minutes' ride brought us to the
+station at Tecomavaca, perhaps the hottest of the hot valley towns.
+Within it are ruins which have been strangely neglected by all tourists
+and investigators. Probably, the great heat has killed whatever little
+enthusiasm may have been kindled in those who have seen aught of these
+ruins. When we reached the station, in the hottest portion of the day,
+the valley seemed to glow; all looked hot and desolate. There were no
+_mozos_ to help in carrying baggage, though the town was fully half a
+mile from the station, behind bare, hot, sandy hills. It is one of the
+poorest and meanest of the Mexican towns. A dreary _plaza_ is surrounded
+by miserable adobe, or adobe-plastered, buildings. The only edifices
+that looked clean and neat were the school, jail, and town-house. We
+found shelter at a sort of a _meson_, where we could get no supper until
+nine, or possibly till ten. Rather than go inside the rooms, we took
+possession of the corridor, and there, with two cots, a table, and the
+floor, lay down to rest. But not to sleep! The town, small as it was,
+had twenty cases of _la grippe_. The woman of the house where we were
+stopping was one of these. Her husband, who came back from the mountains
+long after dark, appeared to have an affection and solicitude regarding
+her, which, under other circumstances, might have been quite touching,
+but which, then, was thoroughly exasperating. While he cooked his own
+supper, made chocolate for her, and heated hot water for her use, he
+kept passing back and forth, between the kitchen and the sick chamber,
+until later than two o'clock in the morning. The noise which he made,
+and these repeated movements, kept us all awake the whole night long.
+The night was hot and close, and new and unknown insects troubled
+us extremely. We were glad to be dressed and mounted, the following
+morning. Riding across the river, we made the ascent to the summit, on
+which were the ruins of Tecomavaca Viejo. The ascent was so abrupt that
+our horses were repeatedly compelled to stop for breath. The trail
+passed through cactuses, and spiny shrubs and trees, which tore our
+clothes more than all we had endured during weeks of travel. The ruins
+are unquestionably old. The hilly slope presents a succession of
+terraced platforms, one behind the other, at different heights. The
+rock walls between these are banked up and faced with rock, coated with
+plaster and mud; there are many pyramids and mounds; there are also
+curious subterranean, stone-faced, graves. Many curious disks of stone
+were found, a foot or eighteen inches in diameter, and three or four
+inches thick; these were all reddish grit, and had plainly been piled
+one upon another to form pillars. Along the forward edge of some of the
+terraced platforms, we found the lower discs of some columns still in
+place. While the amount of work, represented in these cut terraces,
+banked rocks, and subterranean constructions, impressed us greatly, it
+was difficult to get a clear idea of the relationship of the parts.
+
+[Illustration: CACTUS NEAR CUICATLAN]
+
+[Illustration: VIEW IN A TLAXCALAN BARRANCA]
+
+When, however, we found ourselves at the station, waiting for the train,
+we looked back across the river to our three ruin-crowned hills. Then,
+for the first time, having visited the spot, we could clearly make out
+the relations. Three natural mountains or hills, the greater, central
+one flanked on both sides by lesser, had been utilized by the old
+builders; the natural rock masses had been cut and walled, until they
+practically formed masses of construction, rising terrace behind
+terrace, to the very summit. When the terraces were entire, with their
+temple-crowned pyramids, and with embankments and walls in full repair,
+these vast constructions must have been indeed impressive.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVI
+
+IN TLAXCALAN TOWNS
+
+(1900)
+
+
+A street-car line, running for most of the distance down hill, connects
+Santa Ana with Tlaxcala, the towns being separated by seven miles. When
+making this little journey to Tlaxcala in January, 1897, we noticed
+in the car with us, a stout, purely indian man, who seemed anxious
+to engage us in conversation. Knowing a few words of English, he was
+particularly anxious to practice them. He called our attention to the
+various villages, streams, and mountains in the country through which
+we were passing, and took delight in analyzing the native names and
+explaining their meanings. When we were returning in the afternoon, we
+met a gentleman who had been in the same car with us in the morning, and
+we inquired regarding our indian acquaintance. He told us that he was
+a full-blooded indian, whose native tongue was Aztec, and who lived in
+Santa Ana. Being the child of poor parents, the state had assisted in
+his education; he was now studying law in the city of Puebla. He was
+also a musician, and on this occasion had been upon his way to a public
+appointment, where he was to sing.
+
+Later, in Puebla, we called upon this gentleman, whose name we found was
+Quechol, meaning a bird with a crooked neck, perhaps a flamingo. He was
+interested in our study, and said we ought some time to visit the indian
+towns of his people upon the slopes of Malintzi. In January, 1900,
+having been delayed in our plans, we decided to spend a few days in
+Tlaxcala, and secured his company. Our preparations were made at Santa
+Ana; at the home of his parents we were hospitably welcomed, and
+chocolate and bread were furnished, before we started on our journey.
+While this refreshment was preparing, we visited the old church, in
+front of which stood an aged cypress tree, hung with gray moss and
+blazing with red flowers. We also entered some of the houses, where,
+on domestic looms, the _serapes_ for which the town is famous are
+manufactured. We visited also a private school for girls, established by
+a Se�or Barela, who is noted as the first to introduce the industry of
+weaving wool into this community. While the memory of this gentleman
+is held in high esteem by this people, that of his wife is by no means
+savory. It seems that she was an avaricious, vain and selfish woman,
+with no sympathy for his schemes for the betterment of the people. Her
+feeling was well known, and she died heartily hated by all. When the
+time came for her burial, the grave was prepared, and her body placed
+within it. But the earth twice refused to receive the corpse. It was
+then carried to to the Sawapa, near by, and thrown into its waters. The
+stream overflowed its banks, and tossed the body upon the ground; again
+the effort was made to thus dispose of it, but again it was thrown upon
+the shore. It was then suggested that it be carried to "the Cuezcomate,"
+an extinct geyser-crater, famous through all the country, and popularly
+believed to be the mouth of hell; when the body was thrown into this
+opening, it is said the devils were seen to swarm upward to receive it.
+
+It was almost noon as our little party started on foot in the direction
+of Malintzi. Our indian friend, his brother, a white friend, our
+photographer, our Mexican boy and ourself, made up the party, and we
+were followed by three _mozos_ on foot carrying supplies of food. We
+struck out over a sandy plain, where the foot sunk deep into dry sand,
+until we finally reached a well-built wall of stone, considered in the
+district a notable piece of engineering. It was constructed to turn the
+course of a little stream which, in times of flood, has frequently done
+damage to the town. From here, our trail led us on through the sandy
+pine-scrub, broken now and then by narrow gullies, called _barrancas_,
+with almost vertical sides. In every case, we were obliged to descend
+into these gullies and climb out upon the other side. After one and a
+half hours of walking we reached the village of San Pedro, where we
+stopped for dinner. The two Americans accompanying us lay down upon the
+ground, completely tired out, and were fast asleep within five minutes.
+Manuel assisted the local cook in preparing dinner, while we talked with
+visitors until the meal was ready. The houses of San Pedro are well
+constructed of stone, set in adobe, and have well-thatched roofs. The
+granaries, or _cuezcomates_, are of unusual size and well built. They
+range from six or eight feet in height to twelve or more, and are shaped
+like great urns, open at the top, which is protected by a thatch,
+generally two-pitched. The _temascals_ were also unusually well built of
+stone, and frequently were neatly covered with white plaster. Soon
+after leaving San Pedro, in the afternoon, we came upon two indian boys
+digging in the ground. Inquiring what they were doing, we learned that
+they were hunting honey-ants, and in a moment our whole party was
+engaged in the same operation. These ants were found some inches below
+the surface, either singly, or in roundish holes containing half a dozen
+or more; the abdomen was swelled until it was as round as a pea and as
+large as a fair-sized currant, and was filled with honey. To get the
+sweet liquid, one takes the insect by the head or forward body and
+pressing the honey bag sucks out the contents. It is sweet and rich,
+with a little twang, as if fermented, and people in the district call
+it honey-wine. Three quarters of an hour brought us to San Francisco,
+though we had to go down and up two large _barrancas_ before we reached
+the town. It was almost sunset when we arrived. Sitting down before
+the town-house, we sent for the _agente_. Soon after our arrival the
+church-bell rang furiously, and the din and clangor was kept up a long
+time. While waiting for the official, supper was prepared, though we had
+had some difficulty in arranging for it, and were in doubt as to where
+we were to spend the night. Before supper was ready, a motley crowd
+poured into the room in which we sat. One large fellow carried a great
+sword strapped at his side, another bore a short sword, another a knife,
+another a large and ancient gun. Probably there were other weapons not
+in sight. This group of indians was the _agente_ and his _guardia_. We
+were objects of suspicion, and much argument, and an abundant supply of
+_huitzatl_--strong drink--were necessary, before we secured permission
+to spend the night at the house where we were to have supper. No sooner
+had this company withdrawn and supper been eaten, than we prepared for
+bed. One wooden bed, with a mat of rushes, served for Se�or Quechol and
+myself. A second mat, laid on the floor, formed the bed for our four
+companions. In the morning, we took a walk to Akxotla, where we wished
+to see an ancient painting. Here we encountered greater suspicion than
+before, and, after wasting the greater part of the day, accomplished
+nothing. It is true an indian made a _camalpa_ for us. This is a
+stringed musical instrument; though the name is Aztec, it is unlikely
+that it was known before the coming of the Spaniards. Quechol says the
+word means mouth-harp, coming from the Aztec _cam_, mouth, and the
+Spanish _harpa,_ harp. We returned to San Francisco for our dinner, and
+at four o'clock again started on our journey.
+
+It was after five before we reached San Bartolome. As we drew near the
+village, we saw a magnificent double rainbow, brilliantly displayed
+upon the eastern sky against a cloud of almost inky blackness. Looking
+westward, as we entered the village, we saw the sun setting in a sea of
+gold, between Popocatapetl and Ixtaccihuatl. Watching this magnificent
+sunset, we sat down before the old church, and almost instantly a
+crowd gathered to see what the strangers might want. Don Romualdo, in
+wandering through the village, found a _temascal_ in use, and hurrying
+to us, led us to see the method of its use. It is a dome-shaped
+structure, with an entrance so low that one must crawl upon his hands
+and knees in entering; it is a sweat-bath, used for cleanliness and
+health. A quick fire, built inside, heats it thoroughly, after which
+water is thrown upon the hot stones to produce steam. Four persons, of
+both sexes, were in the one in question, taking a sweat-bath. When we
+returned to our companions, sitting before the church, an indian of the
+village, accosting Don Romualdo, claimed to know him; he also claimed my
+acquaintance, and reminded me that he had been one of the subjects I had
+measured two years before in Tlaxcala. A score or more of natives had
+gathered, in the moonlight, around our party. Having heard some indians
+singing, we tried to get these to sing some native songs. Only after
+Louis and Frank had sung some English songs, which were well received,
+were we able to hear Aztec songs in exchange. After a long delay, we
+were taken to the schoolhouse for supper and the night, and spent the
+balance of the evening in taking down a native song, _The Tlaxcalteca_,
+and witnessing a dance which accompanied it. A bed was made up for the
+party by putting various benches and tables together.
+
+[Illustration: TLAXCALAN HOUSE WITH TEMASCAL.]
+
+[Illustration: THE MAPAHO IN USE; SAN JUAN ZAUTLA]
+
+Most of the following day was spent in visiting in the village,
+purchasing idols and in making notes on life and customs; at four
+o'clock in the afternoon, we set out for Ixcotla. Near sunset we reached
+the house of Quechol's uncle, old Isidro. Almost eighty years of age, he
+was straight and lithe as a man of thirty. His house and all the lesser
+buildings of his place were excellent and in fine condition. A flight
+of steps led to the flat roof, from which we watched the sunset. In the
+yard, were half a dozen hives for bees, made from the stocks of the
+_magu�y_. The old man was rich, and owned other houses, but he lives
+alone, his wife being dead and his daughters married. He is a master of
+the Aztec, and uses it in its most poetical and figurative style. He
+does not speak like common men, but his conversation abounds in metaphor
+and flowers of speech. When once one spoke to him of his lonely and
+solitary life, he said, "Alone and solitary! No, we are three! There are
+here myself, my good angel, and my bad angel. I am never alone." Isidro
+knows all the boundaries of the fields, and can trace all the titles,
+and is frequently appealed to in land disputes, and even in law cases,
+is summoned to give testimony. He received us heartily, offered
+cigarettes and ordered supper. To refresh us, he broke fresh leaves from
+the orange-tree and steeped them in hot water, sweetening with sugar.
+After supper, good beds were made upon the floor, with plenty of mats
+and blankets.
+
+We had hardly risen in the morning, when the village was thrown into
+great excitement by the appearance of a band of soldiers. They had come
+to arrest a young man supposed to be a leader in the local opposition to
+Governor Cahuantzi. This opposition was just at fever heat; the election
+was approaching, and a fierce effort was being made to oust the
+governor. Forty-four towns were in open rebellion, among them, all of
+those which we had visited. There had been new laws passed regarding
+land and taxes; these had been resisted. The governor had threatened
+to send engineers to make new surveys, and to bring land-titles into
+question. The suspicion and distrust which we had met were doubtless, in
+large part, due to these measures, and the fear that we were government
+spies. So great was the discontent, and so openly expressed, that it was
+said that on the Saturday preceding, in the Plaza of Tlaxcala itself,
+there was a riot, with cries of derision and contempt, and firing of
+guns upon the palace. We were told that the nearest _haciendero_, who
+was friendly to the governor, was marked for assassination and would be
+killed within the next few days.
+
+Leaving at ten next morning, we skirted Santa Ana, and, having passed
+through San Pablo, came out upon the banks of the Sawapa. This pretty
+stream has reputed remedial power, and in May hundreds of people bathe
+in its waters, to protect themselves against small-pox. As we crossed
+the great stone bridge, we met a drunken indian who attached himself to
+our party. Between him and the Mexican members of our party, there arose
+hostility and an exchange of angry words. To us, personally, he was
+maudlinly affectionate and respectful. Finally, shaking him off, after
+climbing a considerable height, we stopped at Belen for a noonday rest
+and lunch. Dinner having been ordered, we seated ourselves in the shade,
+when our drunken friend again appeared upon the scene, and in great
+excitement, begged me to move, as it was certain death for a heated and
+perspiring person to sit in the shadow of a Peru tree. So persistent was
+he, that Quehcol and Manuel lost all patience, and ordered the local
+officials to arrest him.
+
+About the middle of the afternoon we were again upon the road; having
+passed the bare, fortress-like church of San Mateo, and descended a long
+hill, toward evening we crossed a fine bridge over a gorge of black
+basaltic rock, and shortly reached Santa Maria Atlihuitzia, where we
+planned to spend the night. Here is a fine old church, with a fa�ade
+absolutely covered with elaborate carving; a square tower rises at one
+corner. The great altar is a magnificent piece of carving and gold
+work; the windows are set with thin slabs of onyx. Within, near the
+church-door, are two paintings representing the scene of mayrtrdom for
+which the town is famous. These pictures are ancient, and represent some
+interesting details of indian life at the time of the Conquest. The
+head-dress and mantle of feathers worn by the old chieftain, the dress
+and hair-dressing of his wife, war weapons and buildings are all shown.
+Here, in 1527, the boy Cristoval, child of the great chief Acxotecatl
+and his wife Apalxitzin, was killed by his father because he would not
+renounce Christianity. The little lad was only thirteen years of age,
+and had been trained by Spanish priests. He was the proto-martyr of
+the new world, and the story of his martyrdom and the early church in
+Tlaxcala, have been charmingly narrated by Mendieta. Close by the church
+stand the ruined walls of the monastery, impressive for their massive
+construction and the enormous space which was enclosed. It was dark
+before we finished the examination of these quaint and interesting
+old buildings, and we were glad enough to go to the house of the
+_secretario_, where we found good beds and elaborate furniture. In the
+room where we were to sleep there was a _nacimiento_, made in connection
+with the Christmas season. The table was covered with little landscapes,
+scattered over which were figures of many kinds, including a group of
+San Jose, Maria, and the infant Christ.
+
+Santa Maria is purely _mestizo_. In the morning, finding breakfast
+somewhat slow, we started for a walk, and passing by the old church,
+came shortly to the spot where the boy martyr was killed. From here we
+descended, over a long slope of gray tufa, to a pretty stream flowing
+through black basalt. The rock is hard and shiny with cells or
+air-bubbles scattered through its mass. Close by the water's edge we
+were shown some curious impressions, on the nearly level surface of the
+rock, which were said to be the imprints of the knees of the Holy Virgin
+as she knelt here to wash clothes in the brook; there are also grooves
+made by the Virgin's fingers as she scrubbed the clothing on the rock;
+by the side of these impressions are two hollows, marking the spot where
+the Holy Child sat with its mother as she worked. On the rock behind
+is the impression of a mule's foot. Formerly there were two of these
+impressions, but in 1888 a tornado broke away the mass of rock, on which
+was the other impression. Just below this place the stream leaps in a
+pretty cascade which, with its white foam, contrasts strikingly with the
+black rock. The trail followed by Cortez on his way from Vera Cruz to
+Tlaxcala was pointed out to us and we were told that Atlihuitzia in
+those days was an important city, numbering five thousand _solteros_
+(unmarried men). On the way back to the village, we visited the _arbol
+huerfano_--orphan tree--a cypress, so called because it is the only tree
+of its kind in this district. Quechol says that a long line of such
+trees, at a distance of several leagues apart, was planted by the
+Spaniards, and he and the villagers mentioned a number of them in
+different places. Passing once more by the spot of martyrdom, a white
+_capulin_ was pointed out, as being the very tree represented in the
+picture of the killing.
+
+It was now almost ten o'clock and we found breakfast waiting. At
+Quechol's request, it was a purely Mexican meal, consisting of
+Aztec dishes. We had _tamales_, _atole_, and, for the first time,
+_champurado_. The latter is _atole_--corn gruel--mixed with chocolate,
+and is really an excellent dish. After breakfast, we left our friends of
+Atlihuitzia and hastened back over the same road past San Mateo, Belen,
+San Pablo, and Santa Ana. The way was long and the sun was hot, but the
+road was beguiled with many stories regarding the places that we passed,
+for the whole state of Tlaxcala abounds in legend.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVII
+
+IN THE CHINANTLA
+
+(1900)
+
+
+Once more we found ourselves in picturesque Cuicatlan. Walking up the
+familiar street, we again found lodging with Do�a Serafina. Having
+settled, and taken a look out over the beautiful landscape visible
+through our windows, we interviewed the _jefe politico_, whom we we
+found the same nerveless, well-meaning individual as ever. After
+grumbling, and insisting that it was impossible to fit us out on such
+short notice, he finally promised that all should be ready the next
+morning. It was a sorry outfit that we found; one medium-sized mule for
+myself, and four small _burros_ for the other members of the party. A
+boy from the jail was sent with us as _mozo_ to carry our instruments.
+It was still early when we started through the hot, sandy, flat land,
+covered with gigantic cactus trees, which swarmed with little birds of
+many beautiful kinds. We soon began to climb the great, red rock cliffs,
+up, and up, and up, endlessly. We had forgotten how long the road was;
+but it was longer than ever on account of the beasts we rode. Long
+before we reached Papalo, Manuel and Louis were on foot, rather than
+longer submit to the torture of riding their little _burros_. As we
+neared the town, we were surprised to find a cloud effect almost as fine
+as that near Juquila in the Mixe country. Had it had clearly defined
+banks on both sides, its resemblance to a cataract would have been
+complete. As it was, there was no boundary back of the side towards us,
+and the clouds plunged over and downward as well as in the direction of
+the flow of the main mass. No one in the town recognized us. Supper and
+a night's lodging were readily supplied, but when we wished to secure
+new animals for the onward journey, there was difficulty. They were
+promised, indeed, for seven o'clock, but it was long after eight before
+we saw any signs of their appearance. Remonstrating, we were told that
+there was other business to attend to, and that the town officials could
+not devote themselves to us. With great difficulty, by 10 o'clock all
+preparations were made, and we started on the journey. The animals were
+not bad, but we had been told that there were eight leagues of hard road
+between us and Tepanapa, and six more from there to San Juan Zautla, our
+destination; we were told that we should spend the night at Tepanapa,
+reaching Zautla the second day. As we left the town we overtook a
+funeral procession on its way to the little hill-crest cemetery which we
+passed soon after. At first the road was good, gradually ascending. It
+led us up a rising pine-covered crest, with a little hollow of deciduous
+trees in the midst. We were again getting into a region where the great
+hills presented two differing slopes, one dry, pine-clad; the other
+moist and covered with the dense tropical forest. We soon found
+ourselves upon the damp slope in a forest, almost the counterpart of
+those with which we were familiar in the land of the Mixes. Great oaks
+were loaded with bromelias and dotted with orchids; ferns of many
+beautiful kinds grew along the roadside. Unlike the forest of the Mixes,
+the trees here were hung with masses of golden-yellow moss, presenting
+a curious and mysterious aspect. From here, the trail descended rapidly
+over surfaces of slippery stone and patches of mud; the air was heavier
+and heavier with moisture. Ferns abounded, and presently great tree
+ferns were to be seen, here and there, in all directions. Shortly, our
+road was through a true gorge, where the footing for the horses was
+precarious. Great masses of lycopods of several species covered the
+rocks and little round tufts of a dark green plant with feathery foliage
+dotted the decaying tree trunks. The descent seemed endless, and for
+more than two hours we descended deeper and deeper into the dampness and
+darkness. It was six o'clock when we came out upon a slope where the
+trail was easier and almost level, and it was after dark before we
+reached the first hut of the miserable _ranchito_ of Tepanapa. Checking
+our horses, we called, but received no answer. Sending our _mozo_ to the
+house, we asked for food and shelter, but were refused everything, as
+they said that they were in bed. A little lad, however, agreed to show
+us to the next hut, and we followed him as well as we could in the
+darkness and over the slippery road, some rods further. We found there
+two empty huts within an enclosure, and, taking possession of one,
+brought in our things out of the mist, and soon had a fire built and a
+candle lighted. In vain we urged our _mozo_ to hunt for food. He said
+that all the houses were empty, and, if perchance one were occupied, no
+one would turn out so late to supply us. All were extremely hungry, as
+we had eaten nothing since morning except a _tortilla_ or two with some
+eggs as we rode along. Manuel, Louis and Frank slept in the loft, Ramon
+and I upon the floor below. The two _mozos_ with the saddles slept in
+the other hut. The night was cold and the damp air penetrating. We arose
+early to go upon our way, but unfortunately yielded to the request of
+Louis and Ramon, permitting them to go in search of food. Two full hours
+passed before they returned with a few _tortillas_ and two eggs; so that
+it was half-past-eight when finally we started.
+
+[Illustration: SAN JUAN ZAUTLA]
+
+The road was slippery and muddy, descending constantly; a large portion
+of the way was through woods: at the bottom of the slope we found
+ourselves by a fine brook, which we forded. Then began an ascent as
+precipitous, slippery and unpleasant. The trail followed the bank of the
+stream. Passing through a dense jungle of vegetation, where the air was
+hot and wet, the flora was characteristic. Trees with large, coarse,
+broad pods enclosing two or three great seeds, trees with acorn-shaped
+red fruits, quantities of sensitive plants covered with pink flowers,
+occasional orchids bearing flowers of brilliant flame color, and vines
+with lovely blue pea-flowers made up the bulk of the tangled growth
+through which we passed. At two places we crossed pretty streams, with
+cascades and narrow gorges, opening on to the gorge along the sides of
+which we were travelling; where these streams crossed our trail there
+were great masses of caladiums with their leaves of green velvet. We
+passed two little coffee plantations, the first of which was sadly
+neglected and overgrown with weeds, the second neatly kept. From this we
+rose again, and having gained the summit, looked down upon the village
+of San Juan Zautla.
+
+Riding to the town-house, we met the _presidente_ and _secretario_, the
+latter an intelligent fellow, who told us that the town was dwindling,
+numbering at present but 80 _contribuentes_. He ordered a capital dinner
+for us of chicken, fried bananas, eggs, _frijoles, tortillas_ and
+coffee. Though the _secretario_ was intelligent, the _presidente_ was
+otherwise. He was good-natured, but a fool. With pride he frequently
+remarked, "_yo soy presidente_" (I am president). Then he whispered
+and mumbled, kissed my hand, assumed an air of great intelligence, and
+walked off with a peculiar tottering movement. These performances
+took place not once or twice, but every time the official made his
+appearance. Having fed us, the _secretario_ disappeared, and did no more
+for us. While waiting for him, our attention was attracted by a curious
+drumming noise. It was due to women who were beating cotton. At the
+first house we visited we found three women all busily occupied. An old
+woman sitting in the doorway was spinning thread; a second, somewhat
+younger woman with a baby in a blanket on her back, sitting on the
+ground, was weaving cloth; a third woman sat, with a great cushion of
+moss in a bag of matting on the ground before her, over which was spread
+a deer-skin on which was laid raw cotton, which she briskly beat with
+beaters made of five or six divergent sticks fastened together at one
+end. Such beating sticks are called _mapaho_; one is held in each hand,
+and the beating is briskly done, alternately with one and the other; the
+beating is intended to spread the raw cotton into a thin and even sheet
+before it is spun into thread. Returning to the town-house, we began our
+work, but were soon interrupted. The town is situated on a slope over
+which the houses are scattered. From the porch of the municipal house
+where we sat, we could see several huts upon the slope above. Groups of
+women and children gathered on the little terraces before the houses to
+look down upon us at our work. The _presidente_ and other officials had
+gone to bring us subjects, when we heard an outcry upon one of these
+terraces. A man cried out to the officials; struggled, apparently with
+a woman, then fell. The police rushed up the path. A moment later a
+surging crowd of a dozen persons were struggling together with cries and
+shouts. In spite of the commands of the _segundo secretario_, we started
+for the scene of the disturbance, but long before we reached the spot,
+met a big _topil_ with his head cut open and blood streaming down his
+face, soaking his garments. His arm was thrown around another man's
+neck, whose wrist he held, dragging him thus a prisoner toward the jail.
+Two others followed, holding a bad-looking little man between them. The
+two had fought, and when the _topil_ tried to take them, the little man,
+seizing a rock, split open his head. The two persons were thrust into
+the jail and a guard set. Great effort was made to find the stone with
+which the blow was dealt, in order that it might be used as evidence.
+The _secretario_ told the _topil_ not to staunch nor wash the wound.
+With natural curiosity, the _presidente_ and other men were clustered
+around the jail, looking in at the prisoners, when the _segundo
+secretario_ ordered them from the door.
+
+This man is a strange one. He is a Cuicatec, who married a Chinatec
+wife. He is little, but important. He ever carries a queer old sword.
+When he first appeared before us, he impressively said, "_No tengas
+cuidado_" (Have no care.) He told us that our comfort and our orders
+should be cared for, even though we were in a pueblo of mere brutes,
+unreasoning beings; he should charge himself and the officials with our
+needs. There were scarce three hours of daylight in the afternoon, and
+night set in chilly and damp. Meantime, the _secretario_, the _segundo_,
+the _presidente_ and the _topils_, all had disappeared. In vain we urged
+that arrangements should be made for fuel, for beds, and for a _mozo_,
+whom we had ordered should be supplied to accompany the man from Papalo
+back to that town with the horses. It was now dark and late, with no
+sign of attention to our wishes. Through the darkness, we picked our way
+over a muddy road, slippery and soaked with water, to the _secretario's_
+house, where we forcibly made known our wishes, and said that attention
+must be paid to them. Before we got back to the town-house our shoes
+were soaked with water and heavy with mud, while our clothing was soaked
+through with moisture from the air filled with mist and drizzling rain;
+and this in the midst of the dry season!
+
+During the afternoon, we had seen a curious-looking indian, dressed in
+a red flannel shirt, white drawers and a cap, but with the regular red
+Chinantec neck-cloth. He was a Mixtec from San Francisco Huitzo, who is
+in charge of the well-kept little coffee _finca_ which we passed upon
+the road. He showed us a bottle of coffee essence of his manufacture. It
+was a heavy, oily, clear liquid which I understood he had distilled from
+a weaker and darker coffee extract. It was exceedingly strong, and was
+supposed to be used for making coffee, a small quantity of the essence
+being put into a cup with hot water and sugar. He desired us to test
+this, but a look at it was quite sufficient. He was a handy fellow, and
+did much to hasten the fulfillment of our orders. Under his direction,
+sleeping mats were brought, and he, himself, served our supper, when
+finally it was ready. We were so tired that directly after supper we
+laid down upon the mats spread on the damp earthen floor. We had hoped
+to start our man from Papalo back with our horses early; the officials
+had promised that the _mozo_ to accompany him should be ready; but, of
+course, neither breakfast nor _mozo_ was to be seen. So we again started
+for the _secretario's_ house. The _secretario_ himself was lying drunk
+in bed, and the _segundo_ was almost as bad. In vigorous words I made
+known my dissatisfaction. The _segundo_, with his sword in one hand
+and _tortillas_ in the other, almost too drunk to walk, led us to the
+town-house and summoned the people before him. He thundered forth his
+orders: "You dogs, children of a degraded race! Wretched brutes! What
+do you mean? Why are you not bringing in breakfast for these gentlemen?
+Eggs, _tortillas, frijoles_, chicken? Why are you not supplying them?
+Obey his order. Fulfill your duty. You hear? If you do not fulfill your
+duty, you shall be punished. Hear and obey at once." Under this impulse
+the men started and breakfast was soon disposed of.
+
+Work being slack, the boys went bird-hunting. Manuel fetched in a _rara
+avis_, a little old man of 95 years, who had an extra thumb on his right
+hand. Notwithstanding the small population of the town, there were three
+cases of extra digits. In addition to this old man with his extra thumb,
+two persons in the town each had an extra toe upon one foot. We have
+already stated that the _presidente_ of the village was a fool. He had
+plenty of companions. One of the men, who made himself quite useful to
+us was an imbecile; he crossed himself, kissed our hands, nodded his
+head, and told us the most surprising things in regard to the subjects
+whom he brought before us. In connection with each case he cried and
+carried on at a great rate, and finally insisted that he was going to
+bring me a raw egg as an offering of friendship, which he did. One of
+his subjects was his cousin, who was both idiotic and a deaf-mute. My
+impression was that there were several cases of deaf-mutism in the
+village. One man, whenever any of our party spoke to him, or in any way
+turned our attention to him, piously and vigorously crossed himself,
+grimaced and gesticulated as if in a fit. One man, who seemed
+exceptionally intelligent, after he had seen us make a plaster bust of
+one of his townfellows, stated with great delight, that it was an idol,
+representing Jesus Christ, and that we were going to use it in the
+church. Unlike any other indian town we have visited, there is not even
+the pretence of an open school in this place. Nowhere else have women
+and children showed so great a fear of us and our work. From the moment
+that I showed an interest in the _mapaho_, the beating of cotton ceased,
+and the village was quiet. At no time during our stay did women or
+children come to the town-house. Shortly after sending back our horses
+to Papalo, we found that there were no animals for riding in San Juan
+Zautla. Fortunately, our next point, San Pedro, was but two leagues
+distant, and rather than wait until animals could be brought from
+Cuicatlan, we decided to walk. The night before we were to leave, we
+made arrangements for our carriers. The _secretario_ had set the price
+at two _reales_ a man; four were ordered, and an early hour set for the
+departure. When the time came, our men were in open rebellion. They
+refused to go upon the journey. We told the town officials that, if
+these men failed us, they themselves must do the work. The men were
+really scared, and stated that the people of San Pedro had threatened to
+kill us all, if we came to their town. In vain we argued--they were sure
+that the whole party were going to their doom. For such a paltry sum
+no man would risk his life. At last, however, the officials decreed
+obedience, and our party started. At first we led the company and the
+carriers came behind. The road led straight down the mountain-side to a
+brook, and then up the opposite side to the summit, just beyond which
+lay our goal. As we started, he who had recognized the bust of Jesus
+insisted upon accompanying us a way for friendship, and on the journey
+made various wise remarks regarding the busts. Hardly had we started
+when our men again rebelled; they would not make the journey for the
+price agreed upon, the risk was too great; they must be paid more,
+if they went at all. I felt that patience had ceased to be a virtue.
+Telling them that we would no longer go ahead, we ordered them to take
+up their burdens and precede us, at the same time threatening to shoot
+them, if they stopped without permission. After marching along in this
+new order for a time, they indicated a desire to parley. They would
+carry their burdens to the foot of the hill, where they would leave them
+by the brook-side. We could then go on to the village of San Pedro
+and send back carriers to bring them. To this proposition we gave no
+encouragement. The descent was abrupt. At the bottom was a fine brook,
+with a hanging bridge of vines swinging from tree to tree across it.
+Here we stopped to drink the fresh cool water, cut some sugar-canes,
+catch butterflies, and take views. One of the trees from which the vines
+hung was a perfect mass of ferns, orchids and bromelias of many kinds.
+On the great slope back of us, toward the gap through which the brook
+had broken, were great cliffs of massive rock; otherwise the whole
+mountain slope was a sheet of richest green. The ascent was long and
+difficult, and the party went slowly, with many rests. It was amusing,
+how, even at this distance, as we mounted the slope, we could hear the
+constant beating of the _mapaho_ in the village behind us, as if in
+rejoicing at our departure. As we neared the summit, our carriers again
+made signals of a desire to converse. They would fulfill their whole
+duty, and would carry their burdens to the town-house in San Pedro, but
+would we have the kindness, from here on, to take the lead? Oh, yes, we
+answered, we would take the lead, and they should see that nothing would
+happen. No one would harm us; we were not about to die.
+
+To make a favorable impression, we asked for a drink of water at the
+first house we came to, and passed a greeting with the few men, women
+and children whom we met on our way into town. The greater part of the
+population was at church, where we found a service in progress, and we
+were obliged to wait until it was over before we saw the town
+officials. I told the _secretario_ to summon the town government to the
+municipal-house, which was a small affair, no more than 15 or 18 by 20
+feet, with walls of lashed poles and a palm roof. A narrow bench ran
+around the four sides, and two tables, one long and one short one, set
+at right angles, occupied the greater portion of the open space. A long
+wide bench was placed alongside of the larger. At one end there was a
+_santo_, in a little shrine decorated with flowers and leaves. A little
+fire was built upon the floor, over which wax was melting, in which
+candles were being dipped.
+
+The _secretario_ chanced to be a man whom I had met at Cuicatlan the
+year before. He recalled our work, and taking us to his own house, we
+soon had an excellent dinner. He seemed to be well-to-do, and had
+two houses built of slabs lashed vertically together. Nets full of
+_j�caras_, great stacks of corn neatly laid out, good tableware in
+quantity, and a kerosene-lamp, all were evidences of his wealth. We
+ate at a good table, in the house, where the corn was stored. The most
+astonishing thing, however, in the house was an old-fashioned piano,
+long beyond use. How it was ever brought over the mountains to this
+village is a wonder. When we asked him, what we were to pay for the
+dinner, he replied, nothing; that we would begin to pay later. The
+impression made upon us by San Pedro was more agreeable than that
+produced by Zautla. The town government is large and vigorous,
+comprising a dozen well-built young fellows. On account of the church
+festival, plenty of subjects had been brought together. We did not
+understand what the _secretario_ expected, and therefore took up our
+quarters at the town-house. We paid dearly for our misunderstanding. We
+waited long for supper, but none came. The _presidente_ and the older
+men were at church. The _secretario_ was nowhere to be found. While we
+were waiting, the young fellows who were making candles, and a crowd of
+boys, crouched about the fire and watched the work. Presently they lay
+down a couple of _serapes_ on the floor, and the whole group, eighteen
+or twenty in number, dropped down upon them, a perfect mass of humanity,
+packed close together in the most curiously twisted attitudes, and were
+fast asleep in no time. They had no covering, but seemed to keep each
+other warm. After they were fast asleep, some of the other men appeared,
+and we urged the bringing in of supper. A handful of _tortillas_ and two
+fried eggs were not a hearty meal for six hungry persons, nor were our
+sleeping accommodations satisfactory. With difficulty we got some mats,
+and I lay down upon the smaller table, Frank on the larger, Louis and
+Manuel rolled up on the ground below the latter, and Ramon and the
+_mozo_ on the long bench. Half a dozen of the older men remained sitting
+about the fire. It can be understood that the room was fairly full. The
+men made no pretense of sleeping until past ten o'clock, and two or
+three times during the night they broke out into loud conversation.
+
+[Illustration: CHINANTEC GIRL SPINNING; SAN JUAN ZAUTLA]
+
+[Illustration: CHINANTEC WEAVING; SAN JUAN ZAUTLA]
+
+Just outside the town-house, under a thatched shelter, a group of old
+women were cooking _atole_ in great _ollas_ until a late hour. This
+gruel they ladled out to those men and boys who had been working, and
+doled out to them drinks from black bottles. The men and boys, with
+their red head-cloths or neck-cloths, went forth from time to time in
+groups upon some public errand. Towards evening, eight or ten little
+fellows came from the forest with bundles of firewood upon their heads
+and great _machetes_ hanging at their sides. In the morning, the same
+group of youngsters came in loaded with bunches of green leaves and
+holly to be used in decorating the church. At eight o'clock there was a
+procession in the churchyard; the saint, dressed in flowing garments,
+was carried about, accompanied by banners and a band of music. During
+the festival, everyone drank; even the little boys of eight or nine
+years, who brought in their loads of wood, received their spirits, which
+they drank like old topers. There was no evidence of bad temper as a
+result of this drinking, but an increasing stupidity. When, in the
+morning, we found our breakfast to consist of nothing but coffee, we
+realized our mistake of the night before, and promptly betook ourselves
+to the house of the _secretario_, where we spent the following day. The
+demands of the church during the day were so heavy that we did little
+work. The day itself was dark and dismal. In the late morning the
+boys brought in great loads of poinsettia, from which they fashioned
+brilliant rosettes and garlands for the church. At night, a wooden
+platform was brought in for a bed, upon which Louis, Manuel and I slept,
+while the others made a bed of broad boards upon the floor. Being behind
+with his developing, Louis set to work as soon as the lights were out,
+and kept at it until half-past-one. Scarcely had he come to bed and
+promptly fallen asleep, when there was a pounding at the door, which was
+almost immediately after broken in. Rising, I called out to see what was
+wanted, and four or five indians, all very drunk, came staggering in.
+The oldest of the party carried a great _machete_, and one of them
+closely hugged a bottle full of spirits. After begging pardon for
+disturbing us, they built a smoky fire, near the drying negatives.
+Fearing that their drunken movements and the smoke would work disaster,
+I made them change their place of rest and fire, moving them to the
+other end of the room. There they built another fire, and, before
+morning, they had consumed three bottles of spirits. What with the
+firelight and smoke, the noisy laughter, the loud talking and constant
+movement, it was impossible for me to sleep. Only for a single hour,
+when they fell back upon the floor in drunken slumber, and their fire
+burned down, did I get a bit of rest. If seems that they were an
+official guard put to watch the town store of grain which was kept in
+the building, and which was subject to the depredations of animals.
+During the following day we completed our work upon Chinantecs. The type
+is one of the best marked. In the child, the nose is wide, flat at
+the tip, with a straight or even concave bridge; the eyes are widely
+separated and often oblique; the mouth is large, the lips thick and the
+upper lip projects notably beyond the lower; the face is wide, and
+flat at the cheek-bones. With age, this type changes, the nose becomes
+aquiline, and of moderate breadth, the upper lip becomes less prominent,
+the skin lightens.
+
+For two days more, days of darkness, rain and cold that penetrated to
+the marrow, we remained prisoners in the village, waiting for the horses
+for which we had sent the day of our arrival. It was impossible to make
+photographs, nor was it feasible to look around the town, or into the
+adjoining country. The _secretario_, indeed, showed us the way in which
+spirits are distilled from the sap of sugar-cane, and we had ample
+opportunity to examine the dress of the people and the mode of weaving.
+All the women dress in garments of home-woven cotton, and the red
+head-cloths, so characteristic a feature of the dress of men and boys,
+are woven here from thread already dyed, bought in other places. The
+little figures of animals or birds or geometrical designs worked in
+them in green or yellow worsted are woven in, at the time of making the
+cloths, with bright bits of wool.
+
+At last our animals appeared. They had been sent from Papalo, and we
+made arrangements, as we supposed, for using them through to Cuicatlan.
+The animals arrived at 9:30 in the morning and the _mozo_ with them
+reported that the roads were bad from the constant rains of the past
+several days. We decided to leave that afternoon, stopping at Zautla for
+the night, and then, making an early start, to push through in a single
+day. The _presidente, alcalde_, and other town officials accompanied us
+to the border of the village, where they bade us adieu, begging for
+a _real_ for drink. As we left, the sky was clear and the mists were
+rising from the valleys. For the first time we gained some idea of the
+beauty of the country all around us. The houses of the town are well
+built, with walls of poles or narrow slabs neatly corded together in a
+vertical position. The roofs are thatched with palm; they pitch
+sharply from a central ridge and the ends pitch also from the ridge in
+independent slopes. The top is crested with a comb of thatch, neatly
+applied. Off to the right from the village lay a magnificent valley,
+with massive rock walls clad with green forest. The low masses of clouds
+and great banks of mist but emphasized the impression made by those
+parts of the scene that were visible. Soon we had passed the ridge and
+looked down again into the Zautla valley. The road was not as bad as
+we had anticipated. As we made our upward climb, we found that the
+flame-colored orchids, few when we last passed that way, were out in
+quantity. They are a terrestrial species, and the colors are a beautiful
+combination of flame-red with chrome-yellow. The other day only the
+outer and lower flowers of the racemes were blown, but on this occasion
+the whole cluster was in bloom. We noticed strikingly, what had before
+suggested itself to us, that through this district flowers of certain
+colors mass themselves together. Thus, on this slope, the hundreds of
+bunches of flame-colored orchids were rivalled by clusters of a tubular
+flower perhaps an inch in length, of almost the same hues. Along the
+glen-road near Tepanapa all sorts of flowers seemed to be pink or
+flesh-colored, while along the jungle-bank, near the coffee plantation,
+everything was blue or purple. When we reached Zautla, neither the
+_presidente_, the _secretario_ nor the _segundo_ was in town. The big
+_topil_, whose head was healing, did the honors of the place. We had
+intended to make an early start, but it was half past six before we
+mounted and were on our way. Going back over the old road, we soon
+reached the little coffee _finca_ in charge of our Mixtec friend, and
+here we left the familiar trail, for what our guide insisted was a
+better one. We struck up and up and up the slope to avoid little ravines
+which he assured us were very bad. At last, when it was certain that he
+had completely lost his way, we started down into the forest. For a time
+we followed a bad and disused trail, but soon even this disappeared, and
+we tore our way through the tropical vegetation as best we could. Often
+the men had to cut the way with their _machetes_; sometimes we slid for
+yards over the wet mud; frequently our heads were caught by hanging
+vines, and faces and hands were scratched with brambles. When at last
+we came out upon a cleared space, we found ourselves at the Chinantec
+village of Santa Maria. Perhaps there were four houses in the village.
+Our appearance caused great excitement. Our pack-animals bade fair to
+destroy the maize and other plantings in the field. In the trail were
+oxen, which had to be gotten out of our way for fear of being driven to
+frenzy by our mere passing. They assured us that we were on the road to
+Tepanapa, so we completed the descent to the brooklet and started up a
+trail which at any time would have been steep, stony, slippery, all at
+once. We were compelled, finally, to dismount and lead our animals;
+Frank, before he did so, tumbled his horse three times down the bank. At
+one place two of the horses fell together in a struggling mass, and for
+a moment things looked serious. All the animals but my own fell, at
+least once, before we reached the summit. From there, it was an easy
+ride over a level district until we were in sight of Tepanapa, which, by
+sunlight, presented a most attractive appearance. The houses are spread
+over a gentle slope, to the very edge of a little _barranca_. Each had
+a little enclosure, with a group of banana plants. Butterflies of
+brilliant hues lazily flew about, and a few birds uttered their
+characteristic cries. We could not, however, delay. Before us lay a
+tremendous ascent; the first part, which we had passed after dusk, we
+found rougher than we realized; rock masses here were covered with a
+thick cushion of brilliant crimson moss, a kind of sphagnum. The gully
+trail had not been improved by the recent rains, and it taxed our
+animals severely to reach the summit. Arrived in the district of the
+trees loaded with beards of golden-yellow moss, we caught a magnificent
+view back over the valley. With one sweep of the eyes, we could almost
+follow our whole round of wandering. The ridges on which lay San Juan
+Zautla and San Pedro Soochiapan both were in sight, as were the valleys
+in which Santa Maria and Tepanapa lay. But the only actual feature which
+we could see and recognize was the little coffee _finca_ this side of
+Zautla. The combination of green mountains, blue ridges and bare rock
+cliffs was grand. Here our road forked, and at this point we had a
+moment's excitement. We met an old indian man with a baby tied upon his
+back, and his old wife, carrying a burden, followed after. Before them a
+black bull was calmly walking. The moment the old man saw us, he waved
+his arms and cried out, in great excitement, "_Toro, muy bravo_!" (Bull,
+very fierce!) and hastened forward to catch the lasso wound round the
+horns of the beast to lead him out of our way. Just then the bull took
+matters into his own control, and, with a snort and plunge, started
+wildly away, dragging the old fellow at a wild run down the trail,
+finally whirling him and the baby into a heap by the roadside, while he
+himself took up the mountain-side. It was after dark before we reached
+Papalo.
+
+After much grumbling, supper was prepared and a solemn promise given
+that we should leave at seven in the morning. When we were ready, no
+animals were to be seen. The _presidente_ asserted that the price which
+we had paid was only to that point, and that if we wanted animals for
+Cuicatlan we must make a new arrangement. This was sheer blackmail,
+because there had been no misunderstanding in the matter, and a liberal
+price had been paid. After wrangling for an hour, we shook the dust
+of Papalo literally from our feet, and started to walk to Cuicatlan,
+telling the town authorities that our burdens must be taken by _mozos_
+to the _cabecera_ before three o'clock, and that we should pay nothing
+for the service. Probably we should not have been so ready to take this
+heroic action if we had not remembered that the road was down hill all
+the way, and good walking. Still, fifteen miles is fifteen miles, and
+the sun was hot, and though we left at 8:30, it was two o'clock before
+we entered Cuicatlan. We had no adventures by the way, except the
+killing of a coral snake which lay in the middle of the road. At three
+the _mozos_ with their burdens arrived, and felt it very hard that we
+kept our promise of paying nothing for their service.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVIII
+
+TO COIXTLAHUACA
+
+(1900)
+
+
+For a day we rested at Cuicatlan to make arrangements for a trip to
+the land of the Chochos. We complained bitterly to the _jefe politico_
+regarding the miserable animals which had been supplied us for our last
+journey, and demanded something better.
+
+Frank had had enough of practical anthropology, and left us, so there
+were but four to be provided. At eight o'clock the following morning,
+four decent horses and two pack animals were waiting at our door. A
+mounted _arriero_ was in charge, to accompany us. Although he had been
+inefficient on the preceding journey, the same jail-bird was sent with
+us, as _mozo_, whom we had had before. At 8:30 our party of six persons
+started; passing the river, which we forded, an excellent road took us,
+for a league, over the sandy plain, which was fairly grown with trees,
+supplying a little shade. The great _pitahayas_ were in bloom, and their
+white flowers looked well against the ugly, stiff green branches. The
+roadside was bordered with _acacias_ which, in full bloom, presented
+masses of golden balls and perfumed the air with their delicate odor.
+Passing a considerable sugar _hacienda_, the trail struck into the
+mountains, and for three hours we made a steady ascent. The road itself
+was excellent but the sun beat down with fearful force, and the heat
+was reflected from the bare road and the rock cliffs along which we
+travelled. At one place the vegetation consisted of a curious mixture of
+gigantic cactuses, rising as single stalks as high as telegraph poles
+but larger in diameter, and palms. Arriving at the crest, we saw a long
+plain stretching before us, presenting a mingled growth of palms and
+pines. At the very border of the ridge stood a hut of poles, where we
+stopped to drink _tepache_ and to eat broiled chicken which we had
+brought with us. We found the old woman, an indian--neither Cuicatec,
+Chinantec, Mixtec, nor Zapotec, as we might expect--but a full Aztec
+from Cordoba. She was bright and shrewd, and, as we chatted with her,
+we noticed a little chicken a few days old awkwardly running about with
+curiously deformed feet. Upon my noticing it, the old lady remarked that
+the moon made it so. I inquired what she meant. She said, "Yes, we
+know it is the moon which shapes the bodies of all young animals." We
+followed the road a long distance over the hot plain, passing San Pedro
+Jocotepec to our left, and shortly after, struck up the mountain side
+and had another long and steady climb, until, at last, we reached the
+crest of all the district. Here and there, we encountered bits of
+limestone, which always, in this southern country, makes the worst
+roads for travel. The rain erodes it into the oddest of forms, leaving
+projecting ridges almost as sharp as knife-edges, with irregular hollows
+pitting the surface, so that it forms a most insecure and unpleasant
+foot-hold for the animals. Not only so, but the surface, rough as it is,
+is frequently as polished as glass, and, whether wet or dry, is slippery
+to the tread. Walking over these jagged surfaces of limestone is
+destructive to any shoes. A single afternoon of this will do more wear
+than a month of ordinary use. Troublesome as these limestones are, as
+roads, they are ever interesting, because the masses by the roadside
+present the most astonishing and beautiful forms of waterwear; upon a
+mass eight or ten feet across, there will be worn a system of ridges
+and intervening channels, which, in miniature, seems to reproduce the
+orographic features of the whole country.
+
+[Illustration: WOMEN WITH BABIES; SAN JUAN ZAUTLA]
+
+[Illustration: CAIRN, ON ROAD TO COIXTLAHUACA]
+
+While we were passing over one of these limestone stretches, a little
+before reaching the summit, we found a spot of unusual difficulty. The
+two pack animals were together, one tied to the tail of the other; the
+second had several times acted badly, but in passing over this bit of
+road, he jumped and plunged, so that his pack loosened and slid to one
+side. Plunging, kicking, and falling, he dragged down the unfortunate
+beast to whose tail he was tied; the old rope tugged and creaked, and,
+for a moment, we expected to see the very tail of the forward animal
+pulled out, and both packs destroyed by the struggling beasts.
+Fortunately, at this moment, the rope itself broke. The forward
+animal was loosened and quickly quieted; but the other one kicked and
+struggled, with our load of plates and developing trays under him.
+Quickly cutting the ropes that held the burden, we tried to release the
+animal, but it lay exhausted, and, for a moment, we thought it dead.
+Really, however, it was not hurt at all, and the loads themselves
+appeared undamaged. The burdens having been repacked, we again started
+on the journey. At several places on this road, we had noticed cairns,
+or heaps of pebbles. On inquiring from Don Manuel--the funny little
+man, who had the animals in charge--we learned that every Chocho indian
+passing the place adds a pebble to the heap, to secure good luck and
+insure his safe return home. At the summit, we found one of these piles
+of stone surmounted by a cross, and learned that when the Chochos reach
+this spot, they always stop, repeat a prayer, and dance for good health
+and fortune before the cross. It was now almost dark. Soon we saw the
+downward slope, at the foot of which Huauhtla lay. We hastened down
+the slope, passing through a grove of oak trees, heavily loaded with
+bromelias; at the foot of the slope, we crossed a stream of clearest
+water, bordered with handsome cypress trees, and passing several houses,
+came to the one where we planned to stop for the night. It was now dark.
+There was no opportunity for sleeping in the hut, and so we prepared
+to lie down outside. The people in the house prepared _tortillas_ and
+beans, and, after eating, we rolled up in our blankets and lay down on
+some dried corn-husks on the ground. It was a night of suffering; the
+cold was so great that our blankets furnished no protection, and the
+place swarmed with fleas innumerable. At last, at four o'clock, two
+hours before sunrise, we started on our journey in the hope of getting
+warm. The air was damp and heavy, and, until the sun rose, we had
+a desolate journey. We were again upon a limestone district, with
+interesting features of scenery, and with few difficulties in the road.
+We passed many oblong hills of limestone, the horizontal layers of which
+upon the slopes present tiers of steps, one behind the other. These
+hills were astonishingly overgrown with trees, and formed masses of
+the darkest green. There was a great deal of subterranean water, and
+sink-holes produced by caving over such streams were frequent. The soil
+generally was a residual red or brownish clay. Flocks of gray pigeons
+were startled from their roosts by our passing; and little doves were
+plentiful; great hawks and small eagles were seen in pairs, hovering
+high in the air. We passed several little ranches, to one of which the
+name of El Zapato is given from a foot-print which is said to be painted
+on the rocks at that point. Finally, we saw before us the hill behind
+which, Don Manuel assured us, lay Coixtlahuaca. To mount and drop down
+behind it seemed a simple thing, but we had to traverse the whole length
+of the rather irregular ridge, which seemed interminable. The road which
+led up to it was called the Rio Blanca--white river--an appropriate
+name, as it was broad and deeply worn into the soft rock of which the
+ridge consisted. When we reached the crest, we found the ridge extending
+as a flat plain of light, buff-colored tufa, with many trails worn
+deeply into it, and giving out, under the bright sunshine, a frightful
+reflection of light and heat. Long before we reached the end of this
+dreary stretch, we saw Coixtlahuaca and its adjoining indian villages,
+Nativitas and San Cristobal. As we drew nearer, the view was striking.
+The town is broad, but of little depth; its streets are laid out with
+regularity; its great church, with masses of ruin on either side, is
+conspicuous; the _plaza_ is large for the size of the town. To one side
+of it are the _portales_ and the town-house and _jefatura_. To the
+right of the town and behind it is a large, walled cemetery with many
+gravestones. Back of all, rise hills of tufa, such as we had just
+traversed. The houses, similar to those at Huautla, and in the country
+between there and here, appear to be constructed with a view to cold.
+At least, two houses usually occur in one inclosure; the one, more
+important, corresponds to the god-house of the Aztecs and the other
+to the cook-house. The former is better built, and has low, carefully
+constructed walls, and a high abruptly four-pitched, heavily thatched
+roof. Going to the _jefatura_, the young clerk there was much impressed
+by the documents we presented, and asked us if we would accompany him to
+the _jefe's_ house, as thus no time would be lost. Upon arriving at the
+house of the _jefe_, we found that a wedding was about to be celebrated
+in the church. The _jefe_ received us with magnificent promises; we
+should room at the palace, arrangements should be made for boarding at
+a private house, beds and other proper furniture should be brought
+immediately, and the following day we should journey on horseback
+through all the indian towns of the vicinity. This was all very fine,
+but we told him that meantime we were hungry--we had eaten nothing since
+the night before and then had fared badly--and that we must unload our
+animals, which we had left with the rest of our company, standing in
+front of the palace. The unloading was done at once and we were given
+the schoolhouse for our quarters, at the rear of the _patio_ of the
+palace. At this moment, however, everything else was neglected for the
+wedding. This we all attended, and it was, indeed, an occasion. The
+bride in white, with veil and orange-blossoms, was accompanied by her
+mother, god-mother, and other female friends. She was really a pretty
+and wholesome indian girl, and the groom was a decent young _mestizo_,
+with gray wool sombrero, and linen jacket, cloth trousers, etc. He
+and his god-father were bustling about attending to all sorts of
+preliminaries. In the solemn procession which took place to the church,
+the company of ladies preceded; the _jefe_ and myself led the line of
+male friends, and, when we filed into the church, the building was
+fairly filled. The special friends, including our party, moved in
+procession to the high altar, where the ceremony was performed. The
+bridal company knelt with candles in their hands. Other candles, some of
+enormous size, were burning in various parts of the church. The priest,
+with much ceremony, gave the sacrament of the communion to the couple,
+and then fastened two golden chains, crossing, about both their necks.
+A scarf of satin was placed upon them so as to cover both, passing over
+the head of the woman, and the shoulders of the man. From the church,
+our procession, dwindled to the particular friends and guests of honor,
+walked through the village to the justice-court, where the civil
+ceremony was performed. The matter having been accomplished with full
+respect to the requirements of the law, we thought again of dinner. The
+_jefe_ told us that to-morrow we should go to our boarding-place, but
+that to-day we were to dine together in state. Time passed, hour after
+hour lagged by, until the _mozo_ and _arriero_ struck for money, with
+which to buy themselves something to eat. Meantime, we waited. Finally,
+at three o'clock in the afternoon, we were summoned, and the _jefe_,
+myself, and our companions, started down the hot, dusty, main street.
+On and on we walked, until, at last, the _jefe_ himself impatiently
+demanded of our guide how far we had to go. At last, we heard the
+strains of music, and, shortly, found ourselves in a yard crowded with
+people, among whom two bands of music were present, one with stringed
+instruments and the other with brass. It was the house of the bride, and
+after a moment's waiting in the yard, we were ushered, by the _jefe's_
+clerk, into the building. It had been cleared of all its contents and a
+long table, set in the middle, ran lengthwise of the place. Benches were
+placed beside it. A line of vases, filled with bouquets, occupied the
+middle of the table and between these were bottles of wine, _catal�n,
+mescal, pulque, tepache_, beer, etc. The ladies were already seated; we
+took the remaining seats. The company consisted of the bride and groom,
+their parents, god-parents, families, and particular friends. And then,
+we had a dinner which amply compensated for the thirty-six hours through
+which we had been fasting--good bread, soup, stews, broiled meat, _mole,
+mole prieto_, chicken, beans, sweetmeats, coffee, with the beverages
+before mentioned. Dishes, when they came in, were politely passed across
+the table to the ladies opposite; no one ate till all were served, and
+when we were through, the place was cleared, and another room full of
+friends sat down to the bountiful repast. And then a third, and then
+a fourth, till everyone had feasted, even to the commonest, and the
+musicians, to whom abundance was carried after those invited in had
+eaten. Through all this lengthy feasting the bands of music alternated
+with each other. When all had eaten, the women quickly cleared the
+house, the tables were moved, and all the chairs of the neighborhood
+were set stiffly around the walls, after which dancing began, continuing
+through the night.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+After having eaten, we stepped outside to visit with the crowd. Among
+them, several drunken men showed special friendliness. One of these
+insisted upon showing us an idol, which, from his description, should
+have been a rather beautiful piece. It turned out to be a very
+crudely-made head, wrought in coarse, cellular lava. Considering the
+material, the work was really fine; nor was it a fragment broken from
+the body, as there had never been more than what we saw. From here, a
+yet more drunken _dulcero_ insisted on our going to his _dulceria_ and
+bake-shop, where he told us that he had a much finer piece. We found
+he really had an enormous head, made of coarse, but rather bright, red
+stone; it was another example of the same type of separate head, a type
+which must be characteristic of the district.
+
+Notwithstanding the fine promises, we found no beds or other furniture
+when we returned to our room. This was not, perhaps, surprising, in view
+of the excitement over the wedding, which might drive lesser matters out
+of the mind of the great official. With difficulty, we secured some mats
+from the chief of police, and made our beds with these upon the desks
+and benches of the school room. But, though we remained in Coixtlahuaca
+several days, no beds were forthcoming, though we referred to them often
+enough; nor did the private boarding-house materialize. We, however,
+found a little place in the village where we got plenty of good food
+cheaply. Nor did the ride on horseback through the neighboring villages,
+which had been so pleasantly suggested by the _jefe_, materialize.
+However, each day of our stay we were assured that all arrangements had
+been made for it to take place on the morrow.
+
+We have already mentioned the _plaza_ as large in proportion to the size
+of the town. On Sunday it was crowded, and while many things were bought
+and sold, the trade in _sombreros_ surpassed all others. This is a
+specialty of all the district; throughout the Chocho towns, they make an
+excellent grade of palm-hats and everyone engages in the making. Both
+men and women braid palm, and in every yard there is excavated in the
+soft, tufaceous rock, a _cueva_, or cave, in which they work. Here
+the palm is left between times, and here two persons generally work
+together, each braiding at a hat, while a little cross, cut in the
+rock-wall, looks down upon the work, for good luck. These caves have a
+narrow opening upward and are scarcely large enough to admit the two
+persons who sit at their work. The object of the cave is to keep the
+work moist, as the plaiting cannot be well done, if the palm dries out.
+
+The Monday we were there, the victory of February 5th was celebrated.
+The day began with music by the brass-band, from the roof of the
+_presidencia_. The band, a large one, consisted almost entirely of boys
+about fifteen years of age. Only the director and one among the players
+were men grown. At sunrise the national flag was raised, and at seven
+the church-bells were rung. Through the afternoon, games of ball and
+cock-fights furnished amusement. Among the crowd, at the house of the
+bride, we had met a little, stout man of about twenty-five or thirty
+years, who considered himself superior to the other people, and who
+variously attempted to make himself familiar. At several times during
+our measuring and bust-making, he had hung around, making smart remarks,
+but we had never invited him to submit to measure, as he did not seem to
+be a really full-blood indian. He had made a nuisance of himself, but,
+finally, one day, when he was standing in the crowd, which was looking
+on, he called my attention to a friend of his, remarking that here was
+a good subject. On calling this young man to be measured, we met with
+unexpected resistance. He was purely indian, short, well-dressed, and
+well-mannered, but he refused to be measured. We had had some little
+trouble with our subjects that afternoon, and therefore insisted that he
+should undergo the operation. He refused. Of course, the officials were
+on our side, and the police led him off to jail. When he saw that there
+was no escape, he consented to be measured, and they brought him back,
+under guard, until the operation was performed. So much feeling had been
+raised by the matter, that his foolish friend, to whose jocularity he
+owed the unpleasant experience, thought best himself to be measured.
+Accordingly measures were taken, although it was after dark, and a
+candle had to be used in reading. As our day's work was done, we
+returned to our room, making ready to go to supper. The crowd had
+departed. To our surprise, we found these foolish fellows at our door
+awaiting us. "Sir," they said, "we would speak with you a moment." Going
+aside with them, I asked their wishes. They then launched out, with
+weeping and groans and much wringing of hands, into a dreary tale. They
+were young teachers waiting for appointment; one of them had a little
+family; it would be a dreadful thing for them to be taken away and
+forced into the army. It was impossible to convince them that there was
+no harm in the matter. After long discussion and elaborate explanations,
+they cheered up somewhat, but insisted that I must go to the house of
+one of them, the one who had given trouble, to take _pulque_. We
+went, three abreast, each one of them taking one of my _brazitos
+queridos_--"beloved little arms;" as we went, they alternately indulged
+in admiring exclamations--"Ah, Severo, what a _maestro_! how fine a
+gentleman! how amiable! Say Manuelito, was there ever such a one." At
+the house, which was neat and clean, I met the mother and two little
+ones, who would be left behind in case Severo were forced to go into the
+army. Then the _pulque_ was brought in and sampled. As I was leaving to
+go to supper, they said, no, I must go to my room; they would accompany
+me. In vain I reminded them that my companions were waiting for me at
+the eating-place; I must be seen back to my very door, then I might go
+where I pleased; but with them I had gone forth, and until they saw me
+home again, they would be responsible for my person.
+
+Coixtlahuaca itself is largely a _mestizo_ town. But immediately in its
+neighborhood, and on its outskirts, are indian villages. All Chochos
+know Spanish, and but few talk their own language. There is little of
+interest in their life and nothing characteristic in their dress, which
+is that of _mestizos_ in general. But the physical type is well defined.
+The stature is small; the face is short and broad; the nose is wide and
+flat, with a fat, flattened tip; the hair is somewhat inclined to curl,
+especially on top behind.
+
+Despairing of the promised trip through the villages, we issued orders
+for our animals to be ready early one morning. Only after vigorous
+complaints and threats were they actually ready. The owner of the beast
+which I, myself, mounted went with us on foot, and a _mozo_ was supplied
+for carrying instruments. In spite of fair promises that we would
+leave at three, it was 4:40 before we started, though we had risen at
+half-past-two. Our _arriero_ was the best we ever had; far from
+sparing his good horse and grumbling at our speed, he was continually
+complaining at our slowness. "Why don't the boys want to go fast?" he
+would say. "Don't you want to get there at a good hour? Why do you go
+so slowly?" And then, striking the horse, he trotted along at wonderful
+speed. We reached Huautla at half-past-eight, stopping an hour to feed
+our horses and to eat beans and _tortillas_. We then pushed on down the
+slope, and out over the long ridge, passing the hut of our Cordoban
+Aztec woman. It was the hottest hour of the day when we descended the
+broad road, over the hot rocks, and saw Cuicatlan in the distance.
+Thanks to our _arriero_, we drew up at Do�a Serafina's when it was but
+3:40 in the afternoon, having been upon the road eleven hours.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIX
+
+HUAUHTLA AND THE MAZATECS
+
+(1900)
+
+
+A short ride upon the train, through the hot and dusty valley, brought
+us to the miserable station of San Antonio, from which, we had been
+assured, a coach ran daily to Teotitlan del Camino; arrived at the
+station, no stage was in sight, and we were told that it sometimes came
+and sometimes not. Accordingly, leaving my companions at the station in
+care of the baggage, I walked to the village, half a mile away, to see
+what arrangements could be made for transportation. It was hot, and it
+seemed difficult to arouse interest on the part of the town authorities.
+Neither conveyance nor animals were to be had. Accordingly, a foot
+messenger was sent to Teotitlan, which is a _cabecera_, asking that some
+arrangement be made for transporting us. As there was no hurry, and it
+would be some time before we could receive an answer, I sat under the
+thatched roof in front of the town-house, resting and enjoying the
+little breeze which had sprung up. Suddenly the belated coach, itself,
+came into sight, bound for the station. Starting to mount, the driver
+told me it was better for me to remain sitting comfortably in the shade,
+and that he would pick up my companions, of whom, I told him, there
+were three, and that I could join the company, as they passed. As
+arrangements had already been made regarding the transportation of the
+baggage by mules, the advice seemed good, and I remained where I was. A
+long time passed, and when, at last, the coach arrived, it contained but
+one passenger, a dignified _licenciado_. When I asked the driver where
+my companions were, he answered that they had refused to come because
+I had sent no written order to that effect. I suggested that we should
+turn back and get them, but to this proposition he gave refusal. Not
+only so, but the _licenciado_ expressed vexation at the delay which he
+was suffering, and demanded that we should go on at once. Argument,
+persuasions, threats were all of no avail, and, as it was necessary that
+I should see the _jefe_ at the earliest possible moment, I was forced
+to mount the coach and leave my unfortunate and obedient companions to
+their fate. For an hour and a half the coach lumbered slowly over a hot
+and dusty road, which passed between small, bare, gray or brown rock
+hills, rising to a higher level only a little before we reached
+Teotitlan itself.
+
+Hastening to the _jefatura_, I discovered that the _jefe_ had gone to
+Mexico, leaving the _presidente_ of the town as his lieutenant. This man
+was neither willing, interested, nor efficient. He had little authority,
+even with his own policemen and townsmen. I requested that the first
+thing should be to send for my companions and bring them to town within
+the briefest time. Orders were sent by the policemen to the driver
+of the coach, that he should return at once to the station; to these
+orders, he sent the false reply that his coach had broken down, one
+wheel being completely ruined. After some wrangling and delay, the
+_presidente_ sent a foot-messenger to San Antonio with orders to the
+authorities of that village to supply three animals for the travellers.
+The messenger left at five in the evening. Meantime, we arranged with
+difficulty for beasts for our further journey. Although we were assured
+that no animals from the town could accompany us further than the first
+_ranchito_ in the mountains, named San Bernardino, they assured us that
+fresh animals could be obtained there for the remainder of the journey.
+Going to the regular hotel in the village, we found the prices higher
+than in Oaxaca or Puebla, and equal to those of a first-class hotel in
+Mexico itself. As the landlady seemed to have no disposition to do aught
+for us, we decided to look elsewhere. At a second so-called hotel we
+found a single bed. At this point, a bystander suggested that Don Pedro
+Barrios would probably supply us lodging; hastening to his house, I
+secured a capital room, opening by one door directly onto the main road,
+and by another, opposite, onto the large _patio_ of his place. The room
+was large and clean, and four good cots were soon in place. Having
+ordered supper at a little eating-house, for four persons, to be ready
+at seven o'clock, I spent a little time in looking at relics found
+in the neighborhood. Pottery figures and heads are quite common and
+frequently painted brilliantly; small heads and ornaments of green-stone
+are not uncommon; curious clubs of stone for beating bark-paper are also
+found; objects of gold and silver have been found in ancient graves,
+near the foot of the mountains, on the outskirts of the village. These
+were of curious forms and excellent workmanship, and included large
+ornaments for the ears and pendants for the neck, made of thin sheets of
+gold; turtles and human skulls cast in a single piece; and most curious
+of all, odd pieces of filigree where the gold-wire was coiled into
+strange human heads. One of these was made half of gold and half of
+silver wire.
+
+At seven, no sign of my companions had appeared. A policeman went to
+tell the keeper of the eating-house that we would eat at eight, and,
+putting my chair outside the open door, I sat in the cool air and
+watched the people passing in the moonlight. Eight o'clock came, and no
+companions. The supper hour was postponed to nine. Between nine and ten,
+Don Pedro and I talked over various matters, and at last, yielding to
+his solicitation, I went to supper, he promising to send my comrades in
+case they should arrive during my absence. I had just finished supper,
+at half-past ten, when my three hungry companions arrived, with big
+appetites for their own meals, and it was after eleven before the party
+was through its supper.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+They, themselves, had by no means spent a dull afternoon. The station
+agent and his lady wife had indulged in a vigorous battle. Both were
+drunk, shot revolvers recklessly, bit one another, tore hair, and
+clubbed most vigorously. The man finally took $6,000 in money out of the
+company's safe and left the station, vowing that he would never be seen
+again. Though the authorities at San Antonio had received the order to
+supply animals at six o'clock, it was after nine before they had the
+beasts ready for the travellers.
+
+After an excellent night's rest we started our pack-animals, and
+were ourselves ready for the journey at nine, when we found that no
+arrangements had been made for a foot _mozo_ to carry our instruments.
+This again caused delay and trouble, but at last we were upon the road,
+and started out through the little village towards the mountains. My
+animal appeared a beast of vigor and spirit, and my hope ran high. The
+moment, however, that we struck the climb, matters changed. He then
+stopped every few yards, breathing as if it were his last gasp. This he
+kept up for the whole ascent, and there seemed doubt whether he would
+ever reach the summit. For a long distance, the road followed the side
+of a gorge in which a fine brook plunged and dashed. We passed and
+repassed picturesque groups of Mazatec indians with their burdens. The
+women wore _enaguas_, the lower part of which was brown, the upper
+white. Their _huipilis_ are among the most striking we have seen, being
+made of native cotton, decorated with elaborate embroidered patterns of
+large size, in pink or red. The favorite design is the eagle. Men wore
+_cotones_ of black or dark blue wool. We had been riding steadily for
+two hours before we reached San Bernardino, where the _mozos_ and pack
+animals were changed, and where we rested for a few minutes. We then
+rode for a long time, gently ascending through forests of pine or oak.
+Here and there the air-plants on the oak trees were notable. Finally, we
+mounted to a road along a narrow ridge, like a knife's edge, and from
+here on had one of the most remarkable roads that I have ever travelled.
+Keeping continuously upon the crest, we had upon the one side the dry
+slope, with the pine forest, and on the other the damp slope, densely
+grown with low oaks, heavily clad with orchids and bromelias and
+weighted with great bunches of gray moss. The road passed up and down
+gentle and abrupt slopes separated by level spaces. When we first caught
+sight of Huauhtla it looked so near, and the road to be traversed was so
+plain, that we expected to reach the town before three o'clock; but the
+trail proved drearily long. True, the scenery was magnificent. The great
+mass of mountains; curious ridges extending out from their flanks; the
+multitude of horizontal, parallel long roads following these; the little
+towns, San Geronimo, San Lucas--all were attractive. From the great
+slope opposite Huauhtla, the view of the town was most impressive.
+Before us opened a narrow valley, the depth of which we only realized
+after we had traversed it. An hour and a half was necessary for making
+the descent and the up-climb. From the point whence we were looking, the
+church, town-house, and clustered houses of the village were above us.
+Below stretched a line of _nublina_, and beneath it the whole great
+mountain flank was checkered with the irregular brown and green fields
+belonging to the villagers. It was already five o'clock when we began
+the descent from this fine view-point, and, on our way down the slope
+and up the opposite slope to the village, we met great numbers of
+drunken indians,--as it was Sunday,--usually a man and woman together.
+Two of the men we met had been fighting, and were covered with blood;
+the face of one of them was livid with the blows which he had received.
+Many of the parties were noisy and quarrelsome, and some of them showed
+a tendency to meddle with us, as we passed.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The greater portion of the journey had been over fine, dry roads; after
+we reached the knife-edge ridge, however, whenever there was a descent
+or ascent, we found the road of clay, moist and slippery; in the rainy
+season these bits would be bad enough. At this time of year they are due
+to the _nublina_, great masses of which we saw from the time we reached
+the crest-road, and, at times, we passed through great sheets of it
+which cut off all view and which soaked our clothing. Upon our last
+descent and ascent, we were almost discouraged, and the last half-hour
+of our journey was made by the light of the moon, struggling through
+_nublina_. Though it was dark, when we reached the village, we were
+impressed with the fineness of the municipal-house, the best constructed
+we have seen in an indian town. Its location, near the edge of the
+mountain slope, giving a magnificent outlook over the great valley, is
+very fine. The houses of the Mazatecs are picturesque. The walls are
+built of mud, or slabs or posts daubed with mud, while the roofs are
+thatched with palm. The ridge pole extends, at both ends, in projections
+which themselves are thatched, forming curious and striking horns. This
+same mode of thatch, picturesque in the extreme, is also used above the
+little granaries which are raised, on poles, several feet above the
+ground, in order to keep the contents from the attacks of animals.
+Huauhtla is a large town. The village and its immediate dependencies
+have a population of 7000. Until lately the town was jealous of visits
+from outside, and little inclined to hospitality towards travellers. If
+this were formerly true, it has ceased to be so. We were received most
+heartily; the large and enthusiastic town government, after learning our
+errand, expressed their willingness to aid us in every way. They at once
+cleared a fine large room in the town-house for our occupancy, prepared
+four beds of boards covered with _petates_, and brought from the
+priest's house, hard by, blankets, sheets, and pillows for my own use.
+Arrangements were also made for our eating with the priest, Padre
+Manzano, with whom we fared in truly regal fashion. In the days we
+stayed at Huauhtla, there were no delays in our work and everything went
+in orderly fashion. It is true, our subjects for busts were an awkward
+and trying lot. The first subject broke the back-piece of the mould
+to fragments, and, when the plaster was being applied to his face,
+he opened his mouth and talked, opened his eyes, and drew out his
+nose-tubes, with the result that eyes, nose and mouth were all filled
+with the soft mixture, and it was all that we could do to clean him
+without damage. As for trying to take his bust again, that was quite
+out of the question. The second subject was all right, until the last
+application had been made, when he turned in the partly hardened mould
+with truly disastrous results. The third one acted so awkwardly that a
+piece of mould, which should have come off singly, was taken off in ten
+fragments.
+
+The dress of the Mazatec women is elaborate and striking, both _enagua_
+and _huip�l_ being made from the cotton woven by themselves. At the
+base of the _enagua_ is a broad and heavy band of wool, embroidered in
+geometrical patterns, the color being cochineal. Above these bands,
+there are embroideries in the same colored wool, animal and human
+figures, and geometrical designs. Unfortunately, cochineal, while
+brilliant, is by no means permanent, a single washing of the garment
+spreading the color through the white texture. The _huipilis_ are
+ornamented frequently with red, purple and crimson ribbons, bought in
+stores in the town, which are sewed to the garment in such a fashion as
+to divide it into rectangular spaces. These, in turn, are occupied with
+the elaborate large patterns in pink representing the eagle and other
+designs already described. It is uncommon among Mexican indians to
+find a native use of silk. Here, however, silk-worms are reared and
+carry-cloths, kerchiefs and belts are woven from their product. These
+are worn by both men and women. The mode of wearing the hair among the
+Mazatec women is in two broad, flat braids hanging down the back. The
+women made no demur whatever to being measured, but everyone, who
+presented herself for the operation, came dressed in her best clothing,
+with her hair elaborately braided, and showed serious disappointment and
+dissatisfaction if not invited to be photographed.
+
+[Illustration: MAZATEC WOMEN; HUAUHTLA]
+
+[Illustration: HEAVY BRAIDS; MAZATEC WOMEN; HUAUHTLA]
+
+The town has a most curious reputation, as devoted to commerce, and not
+to manual labor. In fact, it is considered disgraceful for a man of
+Huauhtla to indulge in work. The people of San Lucas, the nearest town,
+and a dependency, are, on the other hand, notably industrious, and it
+is they who carry burdens and do menial work for the lordly Huauhtla
+people. Mrs. de Butrie told us that she tried in vain to get a cook in
+the village. The woman was satisfied to cook and found no fault with the
+wages offered, but refused the job because it involved the carrying of
+water, and she feared lest she might be seen at such ignoble labor. Mr.
+de Butrie a while ago bought a set of shelves from a man who had them in
+his house. As they were dirty, he suggested that they must be cleaned
+before he would receive them. The seller said, very well, he would send
+for a man of San Lucas to clean them. It was only lately that they
+condescended to carry stuff to Teotitlan to sell. In the town-house they
+cherish two much-prized possessions, the _titulo_ and _mapa_ of the
+town. The former is the grant made by the Spanish government to this
+village, in the year 1763. It is an excellently preserved document in
+parchment and the old writing is but little faded. As for the _mapa_, it
+is a strip of native, coarse cotton cloth, seven feet by three feet nine
+inches in size, with a landscape map of the surrounding country painted
+upon it in red, yellow, black and brown. It is a quaint piece of
+painting, with mountains valleys, streams, caves, trees, houses,
+churches and villages represented on it with fair exactness. It was
+probably painted at the same time that the _titulo_ was given to the
+village.
+
+The morning after our arrival, we witnessed a quadruple indian wedding
+in the church at seven. The brides were magnificent in the brilliant
+_huipilis_, and the godmothers were almost as much so, with their fine
+embroideries. The ceremony was much like that at Coixtlahuaca, already
+described. The bride put a silver ring upon the groom's finger, and
+he did the same by her; the priest put money into the man's hands, he
+transferred this to the woman, and she to the priest; single chains
+were hung about the neck of each of the party, both men and women; the
+covering sheet or scarf was stretched over all four couples at once,
+covering the heads of the women and the shoulders of the men.
+
+Near the town-house, along the main street, is a series of sheds or
+shacks used as shops, altogether numerically disproportionate to the
+population. Great was our surprise to find that one of these was kept
+by a Frenchman, who spoke excellent English, and who is married to an
+English lady. They were the only white people living in this great
+indian town. Monsieur de Butrie has a coffee plantation in the valley a
+few miles away, at Chichotla, but he finds the climate bad for himself
+and lady. Accordingly, they had moved up onto the high land, and it is
+easy for him, when he must give attention to his _finca_, to go to it
+for the necessary time. They have some pretty children and are doing
+well. We called at their house, quite like the others of the town, and
+were hospitably received with chocolate and sweet English cakes. During
+our stay, this gentleman and his wife did their utmost for our comfort,
+and gave us many interesting bits of information regarding the people,
+their customs and their superstitions. We have elsewhere described in
+detail their witchcraft practices, their belief in transformation into
+tigers, and their ideas regarding the destiny and condition of persons
+after death.
+
+[Illustration] [MAZATEC FROM SAN LUCAS]
+
+[Illustration] [MAZATEC FROM SAN LUCAS]
+
+Just across the way from the town-house, was a large house of the usual
+fashion, which we quickly learned was the rendezvous and practice-place
+of the town band. This consisted entirely of boys, none of them more
+than twenty years of age, and numbered upwards of thirty pieces. The
+leader was a man of forty, a capital trainer. The daily practice began
+at 4:30 in the morning, and was kept up until noon; then ensued an
+hour's rest. At one, they were again practicing, and no break occurred
+until long after dark. During the days that we were there, a single
+piece only was being practiced. It was our alarm clock in the morning,
+beat time for our work throughout the day, and lulled us to sleep when
+we retired for the night. Se�or de Butrie insists that during the year
+and more than he has lived in the village, several boys have blown
+themselves, through consumption, into early graves. Our pleasant stay
+at Huauhtla came to an equally pleasant termination. Having stated the
+number of animals and human carriers necessary, and the hour at which
+we wished to start, we found every preparation made on awaking in the
+morning, and at 6:25, after an excellent breakfast with Padre Manzano,
+we sallied forth. Six human carriers bore our busts and baggage, and
+four capital horses carried us rapidly over the good road. It was a
+magnificent morning, but later in the day, as the sun rose, it became
+hot. We arrived at three in the afternoon with our carriers close
+behind. The following morning we forgave the crabbed _cochero_ at
+Teotitlan sufficiently to take his stage coach for San Antonio, where
+we arrived in fifty minutes, having two hours to wait before the
+north-bound train took us towards Puebla.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XX
+
+TEPEHUAS AND TOTONACS
+
+(1900)
+
+
+Leaving Puebla on the early morning train, and taking the Pachuca branch
+at Ometusco, we changed cars at Tepa onto the narrow-gauge Hidalgo
+road for Tulancingo, which took us by a winding course through a great
+_magu�y_ country. After two hours of riding, in the latter part of which
+we were within sight of a pretty lakelet, we reached Tulancingo. Broad
+avenues, bordered with handsome trees, connected the station with the
+town, in the _plaza_ of which we shortly found ourselves. This _plaza_
+consists of a large square, planted with trees, with an open space
+before it, and is surrounded by various shops and the great church.
+It is pretentious, but desolate. In front of the treed space, were
+temporary booths erected for the carnival, in which _dulces, aguas
+frescas_, and _cascarones_ were offered for sale. Hawkers on the streets
+were selling _cascarones_, some of which were quite elaborate. The
+simplest were egg-shells, dyed and stained in brilliant colors, and
+filled with bits of cut paper; these were broken upon the heads of
+persons as they passed, setting loose the bits of paper which became
+entangled in the hair and scattered over the clothing. Some had, pasted
+over the open ends, little conical caps of colored tissue-paper. Others
+consisted of a lyre-shaped frame, with an eggshell in the center of the
+open part. Some had white birds, single or in pairs, hovering over the
+upper end. The carnival was on in full force, and we saw frequent bands
+of maskers. They went in companies of a dozen or so, dressed like
+clowns, with their clothing spotted and striped with red. Their faces
+were concealed by cloth. They walked rapidly, almost ran, through the
+streets. They spoke to no one, and did nothing except to keep up a loud
+and constant trilling of the most ridiculous kind. Packs of youngsters
+chased behind and crowded upon them; they also pelted them with stones,
+and the head of one of the maskers was bleeding quite profusely, but he
+still kept up his headlong run and trilling. We had counted upon the
+assistance of the _jefe_, but found him too dignified to receive us
+outside of office hours, and therefore we arranged the matter of
+our transportation to Huachinango. The price was high, the coach
+inconvenient, and the _cochero_ unaccommodating. In vain we tried to
+have all of our plaster taken in the load with us; only one-half could
+go, the balance must follow the succeeding day. Finally, at about ten in
+the morning, we lumbered heavily away, and were soon out of the town,
+passing through a brown, hilly district, at first devoted to _pulque_
+plantations, but further along becoming fine pastureland. Neat fields,
+separated by bands of yellow, unplowed stubble, and true farm-houses of
+good size, were striking features. We passed through quantities of pine
+groves, and everywhere a cold wind blew strongly in our faces. At one
+place, we were obliged to dismount and walk, on account of the sharp
+descent, and found ourselves upon an ugly piece of limestone or
+sandstone rock, which soon, to our surprise, we found replaced by a
+solid mass of obsidian. The _cochero_, says that the place is known
+as _itzlis_--the obsidians, the knives. It was 2:30 when we reached
+Aguazotepec, where we called upon the _presidente_, and engaged a
+_mozo_, for a _peso_, to convey our instruments the balance of the
+journey, as we were completely tired out with carrying them upon our
+knees. We also arranged with that official to forward the balance of
+our stuff to Huachinango the following day. We also arranged to pay
+for horses from Aguazotepec to Huachinango. Having eaten an excellent
+dinner, when ready for resuming our journey, we discovered, with
+surprise, that the stage was still our conveyance to Venta Colorado,
+only a league from Huachinango. There we were to secure the animals
+for which we had paid, though we were warned that only three could be
+supplied. Manuel and Louis at once tossed coins to see which should
+ride first. Although we had paid the full cost of the coach, two other
+passengers were crowded in upon us, and the man, for whom we had paid
+the _peso_ to carry our instruments, ran alongside the coach on foot,
+throwing stones at the mules, while we had again the pleasure of
+carrying the instruments and boxes on our knees. The country through
+which we rode was much as before. For some time we passed through a fine
+pine forest; then we made a deep descent into a valley, at the bottom of
+which flowed a large stream, which was bridged by a grand old structure
+of stone and cement. This descent, and the opposite ascent, we were
+obliged to make on foot, as the approaches were bad. We have been
+impressed strongly with the fact that everywhere in Mexico the worst
+bits of road are those which, in old Spanish days, were handsomely
+and well paved; and which, during the disturbed period of the early
+Republic, were neglected and allowed to go to decay. It is depressing to
+see so many evidences of past magnificence and present poverty. It was
+almost dusk when, after skirting the edge of a deep gorge, we reached a
+piece of bad road, where the coach with difficulty made its way, with
+frightful jolts and pitchings, till we drew up at Venta Colorado. Here
+the coach was finally abandoned. Our animals were packed and mounted,
+and after fussing and quarreling with our ugly _cochero_ as to whether
+he or we should carry the bulk of our baggage, we started. The distance
+was not great. It was down hill, and we had to pick our way with great
+care over the rough road, filled with loosened and separated blocks of
+ancient paving.
+
+This district, in one respect, reminded us of the Tarascan country.
+Every house along the road was a sales-place, where drinks, cigarettes,
+fruit and bread were offered, and each had the little boarded window,
+open when sales were solicited, and closed when business stopped. The
+houses, too, were log structures with shingled four-pitched roofs, and
+the houses in the town were well built, cement-walled, with low-sloped,
+far projecting tile roofs supported on trimmed beams. One might as well
+have been in Patzcuaro, Uruapan, or Chilchota. Again the _cochero_; we
+had told him that the stuff should go to the _jefatura_, and not to the
+hotel; he told us with great insolence that the _jefatura_ was closed,
+and that it would be impossible to see the _jefe_ and that the stuff
+would remain at the hotel; he followed us, when we went to the _jefe's_
+house, and great was his surprise when he found our order efficacious.
+We had a long talk with the _jefe_, who told us that few indians lived
+in the town, and that none of them were Totonacs; he assured us that,
+though there were no Totonacs in Huachinango, we could find them in
+abundance at Pahuatlan, to which he recommended us to go. The nearest
+indian town to Huachinango is Chiconcuauhtla, but it is Aztec. The next
+day was spent in town, waiting for our other baggage, and for the _jefe_
+to arrange our orders and lay out our journey. My day of fever was on,
+and I spent it mostly in bed. There were many indians in the market,
+most of whom were Aztecs, though a few were Otomis. The men wore dark
+brown or black _cotones_; the _enaguas_ of the women were wool and were
+dark blue or black. Many carried on their shoulders carry-pouches,
+consisting of two rectangular frames of sticks, corded together along
+the lower side, and kept from opening too widely, above, by a net of
+cords at the ends. The indians of Chiconcuauhtla are easily recognized
+by their little flat, round caps. Late in the afternoon the bands of
+maskers, here called the _huehuetes_, were out. There were a dozen of
+them, dressed in absurd costumes; a bewhiskered Englishman in loud
+clothing, a gentleman, a clown, a lady, etc. These all went, by twos,
+on horseback; a clown and a devil and a boy with a prod, on foot,
+accompanied them. The duty of the latter, who remotely resembled death,
+was to prod the unhappy devil. They were accompanied by noisy crowds the
+several times they made the rounds of the town, keeping up the peculiar
+trilling, which we had noticed at Tulancingo. At dusk, these maskers
+dismounted and promenaded in couples about the _plaza_.
+
+Nowhere, as in this region, have we had so much difficulty with regard
+to animals. The demands were so exorbitant that we insisted upon the
+_jefe_ making the arrangements. He received us in anything but a
+pleasant mood, but acceded, and finally we secured four horses and four
+mules, for which we were to pay for two full days, and a foot _mozo_ to
+whom we also were to pay two full days' wages. As the _jefe_ himself
+had made this arrangement, we consented to it, but the man who was
+outfitting us then demanded pay for the _mozo_ who went to bring back
+the horses and for the fodder of the animals. At this, even the _jefe_
+balked, declaring that he was not in favor of really robbing the
+gentlemen. Paying him the seventeen dollars and twenty-five cents, in
+order that there might be no further discussion, we started. Just as we
+left, the man who supplied the animals decided that our loads, which
+before had been so large, were really not too large for three mules,
+which number was actually sent with us, though we had paid for four.
+We were ready for starting at seven, but it was ten before we left.
+Meantime, clouds had gathered, and just as we started, rain began. There
+were first several separate showers, and then a steady downpour, which
+lasted almost till we reached Pahuatlan. All the blankets had been
+packed away, and we rode through the rain until our clothes were
+drenched through and through. For three hours this continued, and it
+was impossible to see anything of the country through which we passed.
+Finally, however, as we reached a great crest, and looked down into the
+valley beyond, the sky was clear and we could see something of the scene
+about us. The descent we were to make, and the slope in front, were
+covered with sugar-cane, broken here and there by great patches of
+pineapples. With each plantation of sugar-cane there was a little
+shelter of poles under which was a sap-trough or boiling-tank, while at
+the side of and behind the shelter was a rude mill, the power for which
+was furnished by a yoke of oxen. Boys fed the fresh cane between the
+crushing rollers, and the sap, as it ran out, was carried in little
+troughs to vats. Not at all these little shelters was sugar-making in
+progress, as we passed, but over both slopes many columns of smoke
+indicated places where the work was going on. The fire in the vat kept
+the sap boiling, and a man standing near with a great ladle, pierced
+with holes, kept dipping up and pouring out the hot sap. When we started
+up the great ascent we had no hint of Pahuatlan, and, when we reached
+the summit, could see nothing of it. But hardly had we begun the descent
+before we saw the large and handsome town below, but still with a long
+slope and a sharp ascent to be passed, before we could reach it. From
+the brook-side, at the bottom of the valley, almost to the village
+itself, we passed through a dense growth of bananas, which seemed to
+have suffered some damage, as many were dry and yellow, and individual
+leaves were curiously tattered and jagged. Among them grew other plants,
+coffee, orange-trees, peaches, and cane. When we reached the town, my
+heart sank; a church with handsome dome and modern tower, a planted
+_plaza_ with central fountain, buildings, of two stories with gaudy
+fronts and _portales_, surrounding three sides of the square, augured
+better for comfort while we were in the place, than for work
+on Totonacs. We rode up to the _municipio_, where we found the
+_presidente_, a rather stylish young fellow, who was interested in our
+work and helpful. The town controls fourteen thousand persons, and its
+name is derived from that of a large _ahuacate_, the Aztec name of which
+is _pahuatl_. The _presidente_ assured us that there was no Totonac
+town, properly speaking, within the limits of the _municipio_. For all
+this district, Orozco y Berra makes many errors. Atla, which he lists as
+Totonac, is really Aztec. The _presidente_, upon a local map, showed us
+the interesting way in which natural barriers limit idioms. Two
+little streams, coming together at an acute angle, may divide three
+languages--one being spoken in the angle and one on either side.
+In Tlaxco, a small village in this _municipio_, four idioms are
+spoken--Aztec, Otomi, Totonac and Tepehua.
+
+Two years before, just as my work was ending, we were in the great Otomi
+town of Huixquilucan, in the state of Mexico. While resting at midday, I
+noticed a neatly-dressed and clean young indian, plainly not Otomi, with
+whom I conversed. He was an Aztec, and much interested in the work we
+were doing. In our conversation, he told me that I would find much of
+interest in the state of Hidalgo, and particularly called my attention
+to the making of paper from bark, which he had observed in the town of
+San Gregorio, two years before. This particularly interested me, and I
+then made notes regarding the method of getting to San Gregorio. I was
+advised by him, in case of going to that place, to talk with Don Pablo
+Leyra, of Huehuetla, who was himself an Indian and a man of consequence
+in the district--a sort of _cacique_ among his people. Several years
+ago, I had first learned from Se�or Eurosa, a Mexican Protestant
+clergyman, that in the little town of Tlacuilotepec, there still survive
+interesting pagan practices. In planning our present journey, I had
+arranged to visit San Gregorio and Tlacuilotepec for the purpose of
+investigating this manufacture of paper and these pagan customs.
+Inquiring of the _presidente_ of Pahuatlan about his indians, I asked
+regarding paper-beating, and discovered that it was done at the nearest
+indian village of San Pablito, Otomi. We were told that bark of several
+species of trees was used--_jonote_, dragon, and mulberry; that the
+paper is usually made secretly and in-doors; that the passing traveller
+can hear the sound of light and rapid pounding as he passes through the
+village; that it is made in every house, and the proper season is when
+the sap runs, April to June; San Pablito is the only village in the
+_municipio_ where it is made. It is used in _brujer�a_ (witchcraft);
+other paper can be bought much cheaper, but only this kind is
+serviceable. It is cut into _mu�ecos_; representing human beings and
+horses and other animals, and these are used to work injury to human
+beings and beasts, being buried in front of the house or in the
+_corral_. The judge, who was sitting by, told us that a prisoner brought
+before him for trial was found to carry such a paper figure, which was
+sewed through the body with thread and had its lips sewed also; he
+learned that this figure represented himself, and that the lips were
+sewed to prevent him from pronouncing judgment on the prisoner. They
+assured me that the nearest point for finding Totonacs or Tepehuas, in
+sufficient numbers for my purpose, was in the district of Tenango del
+Doria, where, at Huehuetla, we would find the largest Tepehua town, and
+that in Pantepec, which is in the district of Huachinango, and near
+Huehuetla, we would find Totonacs. We had had such ill success in
+locating Totonacs so far, that, at our suggestion, they telephoned to
+the _jefe_ at Tenango inquiring regarding the populations of Huehuetla
+and Pantepec, with the result that we decided to visit those towns.
+
+At Tulancingo, we had been snubbed by the _jefe_, who would not treat
+with us outside of office hours. When the _presidente_ of Pahuatlan took
+us to the house where arrangements had been made for our accommodation,
+we found a garrulous, simple-minded, individual who was set to clear
+our room and make our beds. To myself, as leader of the company, he
+was attentive and ceremonious in the highest degree, and on several
+occasions he took my companions to task for their ignorance regarding
+the proper deference to display toward me. He inquired whether we were
+acquainted with Se�or Arroyo, _jefe politico_ of Tulancingo, and then
+informed us, with pride that that gentleman was his "Se�or Padre."
+"If so, Se�ors, you may well ask why you see me thus dressed in
+_calzoncillos_. For two reasons: first, I am not a legitimate son, no,
+Se�ors, my lady mother, who bore me was an Otomi indian, but I am the
+acknowledged illegitimate son of my honored Se�or Padre. Second, I had
+the misfortune to be involved in trouble in the district of Del Doria,
+which forced me to flee from that district to escape the _jefe_. But,
+sir, my Se�or Padre said to me, 'son, I am the _jefe politico_ of
+Tulancingo and the governor of the State is Pedro L. Rodriguez; I am his
+intimate friend, and we shall succeed in ousting that _jefe_ in Tenango
+del Doria who has ordered your arrest.'" He also told us of one time,
+when his Se�or Padre and an inspector visited that unfortunate district
+as an investigating committee, and found the _jefe_ guilty and put him
+in jail _incomunicado_. He also told us of the band of Pahuatlan, justly
+famous, which made so great an impression in one town it visited,
+that it determined to go to Tulancingo to serenade the _jefe_ of that
+district, his honored Se�or Padre. "And I was invited, sir, not that I
+am a musician or know one note from another, but because I am of
+the family of the gentleman who was to be honored, and as a mark of
+distinguished favor to both members of the family. The band played so
+beautifully, that it was not allowed to stop until half-past-eleven at
+night, when it retired in great triumph." All this was very interesting,
+the first time it was told us, but the natural son remained while we ate
+supper, and afterwards, following us to our sleeping-room, kept up the
+repetition until two were already in bed and asleep and the others
+wished to be, when, finally, we turned him out and locked the door upon
+him for the night. We have stated that we paid for four animals to bring
+our baggage hither, while but three were actually employed; the animals,
+both pack and passenger, started on their journey for Huachinango at
+half-past-four in the afternoon, though we had paid both beast and man
+two full days' wages.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Tlacuilotepec is a dependency of Pahuatlan. We started for our day's
+trip thither on a good lot of animals, at eight o'clock in the morning,
+with two foot _mozos_ for carriers. The journey was delightful. For a
+little, we followed a trail down the left-hand bank of a fine ravine.
+Nearly at the foot we struck to the left, through a little cut, and were
+surprised to find ourselves upon the right-hand slope of another gulf of
+immense depth. A few minutes later, we reached the point where the two
+streams united. And from there on, for a long time, we followed the
+bottom of a great gorge. The rock walls were bold and often sheer, and
+the upper line of mountain horizon was graceful and varied. The cliffs
+were mostly limestone, and presented remarkable examples of folding and
+dislocation. The long roots of trees, following exposed rock surfaces
+downward for yards, and twisting and bending to find lodgment in the
+crevices, were curious. Great tufts of a plant with long, narrow,
+light-green leaves hung down along vertical rock faces. In little
+caverns, at the foot of cliffs, were damp spots filled with ferns and
+broad-leaved caladiums, and brilliant clusters of begonias in bloom.
+At several places, the water of springs or underground streams gushed
+forth, in natural rock-basins, or from under projecting ledges. At one
+spot, there was a dainty basin of limestone into which a pretty veil of
+spring water fell gracefully. We crossed and recrossed the stream many
+times. Everywhere we were within sound of the creaking sugar-mills, and
+in sight of the ladling of boiled sap; everywhere we met _arrieros_
+driving animals loaded with little loaves of native sugar; everywhere
+the forest was broken with little patches of sugar-cane, growing on the
+slopes. Here and there, we saw cables slung across the streams, for
+passing cargoes at high water. At one place was a fine display of
+basaltic columns, the position of which was horizontal, the flow having
+come up as a sheet injected from below, and not as a surface out-flow,
+where the jointage would have been vertical. Finally, leaving this
+beautiful ravine, we made a rapid ascent, passing a little village
+consisting almost wholly of a school, noisy with study, and a church,
+with a separate square tower. Shortly after reaching the summit, and
+dipping slightly, we found Tlacuilotepec. It is not a large town. At its
+center _mestizo,_ it has charge of several indian villages. We had
+been referred for information concerning surviving paganism to a Se�or
+Martinez. We were interested in finding that the _presidente_ of the
+town was a brother of this gentleman, and that both were Protestants. We
+were received with great cordiality, not only on account of our official
+introduction, but also because we brought an unofficial introduction
+from Protestant friends. Two charming beds were arranged in the little
+meeting-place in Se�or Martinez's own house, and two others, almost as
+good, were secured for the others of the party, in the little _meson_
+of the village. As we chatted, we were refreshed with a delicious
+orange-wine, which is made here, and during our days spent with Don
+Quirino, we had meals fit for a king. The indians under his charge are
+Otomis, and in one little village, Santa Maria, Totonac. When we came
+to inquire regarding the pagan practice for which we were searching,
+we learned that it was peculiar to the Otomis, and formed their annual
+_costumbre_--custom. They believe that Montezuma is to come again.
+Meantime, from him come health, crops, and all good things. Their
+_costumbre_ is a feast given in his honor, of which he is believed to
+partake. A _jac�l_--hut--is prepared in a retired spot; a table is
+constructed full length of the house within, and upon this a feast is
+spread of which all partake.
+
+Upon this table they place many _mu�ecos_ of paper; formerly these were
+made of the bark paper, but they are now made of ordinary paper bought
+in the stores. There may be so many of these that they cover the table
+an inch or two thick. The feasters shove money, usually small pieces
+of silver, beneath these figures. They then kill turkeys and hens and
+chickens, and sprinkle the blood from the headless bodies over the
+_mu�ecos_. This they do that Montezuma may be propitiated, and give them
+what they desire; the money and the _mu�ecos_, sprinkled with blood, are
+left upon the table after the feast, the former being stolen by passing
+_mestizos_.
+
+The _presidente_ stated that, at the _pueblito_ of Santa Maria, where we
+should go upon the morrow to see some Totonacs, they had just celebrated
+their annual _costumbre_. He said that it might be somewhat similar,
+as they had sent him a headless turkey, as a gift. In the morning, we
+visited this village accompanied by the two brothers. A half hour's ride
+brought us to the spot, from which one gets one of the most lovely views
+in all this picturesque country. Standing on the end of a little spur
+upon which the village lies, one sees the handsome river below, which
+separates this _municipio_ from that of Villa Juarez. To the left, rise
+magnificent mountains covered with brilliant green vegetation, broken
+here and there by bare rock faces, from the base of which gentle slopes,
+extending down to the river, are covered with little corn-fields.
+Cuauhtepec, a Totonac pueblo, where all are said to dress in white, lies
+upon this stream, and immediately back from it the cultivated fields
+of the village stretch up to the very crest. To the right, is seen
+the little ranch Tanchitla, with its fields, a strip of green forest
+separating these from the fields of the next village, Tlapajualla. The
+stream abounds in fish of various kinds, which form an important food
+supply. They are, however, rapidly being destroyed by the practice of
+exploding dynamite cartridges in the water, by which not only the adult
+fish, but the young, of all ages, are killed. Unless the practice soon
+ceases, and there are rigid laws against it, there will soon be no fish
+left in any of the streams of this whole region. This particular stream
+bears different names in different portions of its course--thus it is
+called Tanchitla, Pahuatlan, San Marcos, Caxones, Xico, etc.
+
+Having noticed that here, as at Pahuatlan, the banana trees were badly
+injured, we learned that this havoc was the result of two recent
+hail-storms, which were felt over a wide area, and which were of almost
+unexampled severity. By the time we had enjoyed the outlook, and learned
+a little of the village, the messenger who had been sent to call the
+people together had performed his duty, and a picturesque group of our
+long-sought Totonacs were at hand. The women wear _quichiquemils_ of
+native cotton cloth, the neck opening of which is over-hemmed with
+black wool. Lines of crosses, rosettes, birds, etc., are worked in
+various-colored wools upon them. Many of them have a broad line of
+color, in geometrical combinations, running vertically up the middle.
+The men wear _cotones_ of black and white.
+
+Twenty-five or thirty of the more important men of the village were now
+taken to the schoolhouse, where the _presidente_ inquired, for me, in
+regard to the _costumbre_. At first a little hesitancy was shown, but
+soon all were interested and talked freely. The _costumbre_ comes at
+about the same time each year, though not upon a fixed date. Its purpose
+is to secure health, good weather and crops for the coming year, though
+it may be held on the occasion of pestilence. Everyone, even widows and
+old maids, brings something for the feast. The celebration is held in
+some large house, and lasts through two days; floral decorations are
+arranged in the four corners of the room, candles are lighted, and
+_copal_ is burned. The first day, each person brings a handful of earth
+from his field, which is placed in a heap upon the floor. Fowls and
+animals are slaughtered for the occasion; their heads are cut off and
+their blood is sprinkled upon the earth. After feasting and drinking, a
+dance follows, the dancers wearing crowns and necklaces of yellow arnica
+flowers, and carry in their hands wands made of pine-splints wrapped
+with corn-husks, and with a flower of arnica tied to each end. The
+second day, corn on the ear and beans are brought instead of earth, and
+these are sprinkled with blood. On both days, blood-sprinkled material
+is carried home, and the seed and earth are later put into the field. In
+the feasting-room, two paper lanterns are hung from the ceiling; these
+are stuck over with gilt and colored paper disks and stars. They
+represent the sun and stars. Upon these lanterns a cross of blood is
+made, at the time when the earth and seed are sprinkled. After the dance
+ends on the second day, children shoot at the lanterns with small arrows
+and try to break them. Disappointed that no mention had been made of
+bark paper in connection with this ceremonial, we asked whether they
+ever used it. They answered promptly in the affirmative. For what? To
+wrap _ocotes_. With this, the man who told me hastened out and came back
+with a little parcel in his hand. This consisted of twelve little sticks
+of pine about three inches long; they were tied together with a band of
+thread or bark fibre, and were stained with blood; these were wrapped in
+a piece of green banana leaf, the upper face of the leaf being placed
+inside and the base of the leaf kept downward. When it had been thus
+carefully folded, it was carried to the field and buried in a hole,
+carefully dug, so that the top of the package was close to the surface
+of the ground, and the face of the leaf wrapping was directed toward the
+rising sun. To anyone who has studied American indian religions, these
+two _costumbres_ suggest much of interest.
+
+The young man who had been most interested in our proper understanding
+of the _costumbre_ was anxious that we should see the village idols.
+These are kept concealed, apparently in a cave, though it is possible
+that they are buried in the ground. At all events, they exist, and in
+considerable number. A lively discussion ensued as to whether it would
+be proper to show them to us, and it was decided that nothing ought to
+be done until the old woman, who is at the head of the pagan practices
+of the village, should be present. It seems that in the _costumbre_,
+already described, there are four priests or leaders. One of these is
+the old woman just mentioned, and the other three are men. She was sent
+for, and while we waited, we were told that, if we desired to see
+the lanterns that were used in the last _costumbre_, they were still
+preserved in the _santocalli. Santocalli_ is a mongrel word--from
+Spanish _santo_, saint, and the Aztec _calli_, house. It was a little
+structure of adobe and canes, close to the schoolhouse, and fronting
+with it upon the little _plaza_ of the village. It had a two-pitched
+thatched roof and a single door in the front. After some demur, it was
+opened, and we entered. It consisted of a single plain room with two
+benches made of beams along the wall. At the back was a terrible Christ
+and Virgin, and, to the right and behind, another Virgin. These Virgin
+figures were both small and unattractive, and both wore _quichiquemils_.
+In front of the Christ and larger Virgin was a simple altar built
+against the wall. In the floor, directly in front of it, were four small
+hollows. To the right of the altar, a flat stone was set into the floor.
+In front of the altar stood a small table on which were censers and
+candle-sticks. Underneath this table, the space between the four
+legs was occupied by a heap of ashes; in front and behind this were
+ill-defined basin hollows. To beams in front of these were hung the
+almost globular paper lanterns already mentioned. When we had seen these
+lanterns, and were about to leave, the old _bruja_ appeared, with her
+female acolyte. She was furious over the desecration of strangers
+entering the _santocalli_, without her presence. She was a striking
+figure; very small, with a wrinkled, shrewd and serious, but not unkind,
+face; her white hair was almost concealed by her _rebozo_, which was
+folded square and laid upon her head with a portion flowing behind.
+The most striking thing was her great devotion, and complete unconcern
+regarding all around her. Entering, she hastened to the altar,
+knelt,--touched her forehead to the edge--and in a clear but not loud
+voice crooned an impassioned cry to Christ, to San Jose and to the
+Virgin. Imperiously turning to her acolyte, she seized the censer filled
+with copal, and, having lighted it, incensed the figures. Turning to the
+_presidente_, she asked whether he were going to placate the saint for
+invasion by giving _aguardiente_ and candles, both of which appeared, as
+if by magic, when she was given money. Pouring _aguardiente_ from the
+bottle into a glass, she poured into the four basins in the ground
+before the altar, before the Virgin, before and behind the heaps of
+ashes under the table, and then placed it to the lips of the Virgin and
+Christ, lovingly requesting them to partake. She then compelled each of
+the three men priests to make the same libation. Taking the unlighted
+candles, she made passes with them, over and across the figures, first
+to one side and then to the other, brushing the wicks against them.
+This, too, had to be done by the three assistants, after which the old
+lady began to make vigorous personal use of the bottle of spirits,
+though she was not at all selfish, urging, not only her acolytes, but
+the _presidente_, his brother, and the chief guest, to partake. It was
+too late to suggest a visit to the idols, but the curious scene we
+had witnessed gave sufficient food for thought. Hurrying back to
+Tlacuilotepec, we ate a last excellent dinner, which had been long
+waiting, and at three left for Pahuatlan. Our host, who had been
+unremitting in his attention, refused all money. At certain indian
+houses which we passed upon our homeward way, we saw curious pouches
+made of armadillo-shells, hanging upon posts or on the house walls. We
+learned that they were used at planting-time for holding seed-corn.
+When the shell is freshly removed from the animal, it is bent into the
+required shape, and then packed full with wet ashes, to make it retain
+its form in drying. Though it was half-past three when we left, the way
+was so cool and delightful that we made the journey in three hours.
+
+During our day at Pahuatlan, with a guide furnished by the _presidente_,
+I made the journey on foot to Atla, an Aztec town, famous for the little
+cotton sacks with red wool patterns, which are almost universally
+carried by men throughout this district. White _cotones_, with narrow,
+dark stripes and a transverse band of red decoration at each end, and
+white _quichiquemils_, decorated with brilliant designs in red wool, are
+also made here. Our object was not so much to see the village and the
+garments, as to visit a famous witch's cave, situated in the noble
+pinnacle of rock, plainly visible from Pahuatlan. The whole party
+started out from Pahuatlan, but at the bottom of the great slope, I left
+my companions to swim, while the guide and I, crossing a pretty
+covered bridge, scarcely high enough for a man of my height wearing a
+_sombrero_, went on. It was a long climb to the village, but, when
+we reached there, my _mozo_ with great glee called my attention to
+_bruher�a_ directly at the side of the church. In front of the building,
+to the right of the door as one enters, is a hole in the ground, into
+which a few large stones have been clumsily thrown or laid. Here
+chickens, flowers, eggs, etc., are buried, in order to secure good luck
+or to restore health. Carefully removing some of the stones, we saw
+ample evidences of such offerings, in bones, bits of egg-shells, and
+dried flowers. From here, the climb was easy to the crest overlooking
+the village, and to the curious tower-like mass projecting conspicuously
+from it. The cave is situated in this mass of rock and faces almost
+east; it is a shallow cavern, well-sheltered and dry, perhaps fifty feet
+wide along the cliff's front, though only the eastern third, which is
+the more completely worn out, is used for ceremonies; it is, perhaps,
+no more than eight or ten feet deep, and has greater height than depth.
+Within the cave itself we found a little table, a small chair, and two
+blocks for seats. On either side of the table, a pole was set obliquely
+against the wall. The upper end of the left-hand pole was tied with a
+strip of palm which was looped through a hole in the rock wall. At two
+or three other places, strips of palm had been slipped through natural
+holes in the wall, behind bars of stone, and then tied. To the left,
+were a censer and two candle-sticks, behind which, lying obliquely
+against the wall, were twenty-five or thirty dance-wands. These were
+sticks wrapped with corn-husks and tufted with clusters of flowers tied
+about the middle and at each end. The flowers used were mostly the
+yellow death-flower and purple ever-lastings. Two or three of them were
+made with the yellow death-flower--_cempoalxochil_--alone. A few were
+made of _xocopa_ leaves. While only twenty-five or thirty were in
+position, hundreds of old ones lay on the bank to the left. Three small
+crosses of wood were placed near the wands; much white paper, clipped
+and cut into decorated designs, was lying about, as also wads of cotton,
+colored wools, long strings of yarn, and bits of half-beaten bark fibre.
+Near the front edge of the cave was a hole with large stones; here, with
+a little scratching, we found feathers and bits of bone of turkeys and
+hens, that had been sacrificed, as well as splints of pine tied together
+with bark string. Wooden spoons, probably used in the banquets of the
+witches, were stowed away in crevices of the rock. Chains of the yellow
+death-flower were looped up against the wall. It is said that the people
+of the town never enter here, but only _brujas_. Nor is it the exclusive
+property of the witches of Atla, of whom there are but two or three, but
+those of several pueblos make their rendezvous in this cave. In fact,
+from the crest, we could see two other little towns that are interested
+in this cave, though located in another valley.
+
+[Illustration: THE PAGAN PRIESTESS AND HER ACOLYTE; SANTA MARIA]
+
+[Illustration: THE WITCH'S CAVE AT ATLA]
+
+Don Antonio, at whose house we stayed, told us that San Pablito is worse
+for _bruher�a_ than Atla. He says the people of that town make use of
+_mu�ecos_ of wood, of various sizes. For these he makes many little
+shoes, for which he charges five or six _reales_ a pair; at that time he
+had orders for three pairs, and showed us the little forms or lasts he
+employs, and the special leather; they are particular about this, using
+black for shoes for males and red for females. He says they also
+use little hats, _serapes, enaguas_ and _quichiquemils_, for their
+_mu�ecos_. Some of these dolls they place on the altar in the church,
+and consider them as sacred, though they remove them when they expect
+the priest. Others they take to a lake in the district of Tenango, near
+San Pablo el Grande, and leave them there as offerings. They also throw
+money and other offerings into the lake.
+
+We started at eight o'clock the following morning, bound for Tenango
+del Doria. For a little time, after leaving Pahuatlan, we mounted, soon
+finding ourselves at the top of a magnificent crest. From here the
+descent was rapid and profound; in front of it rose an equally abrupt
+slope to an even greater height; toward the left this presented a
+wonderful knife-edge crest, jagged and toothed astonishingly, and on
+this great slope, below the level where we were, we saw San Pablito,
+prettily located. As it was Sunday, most of the people were on their
+way to market, and we saw many Otomis, whose dark color and broad faces
+reminded us of those in the state of Mexico, though they did not present
+so marked a type. The _enaguas_ of the women consisted of an upper white
+strip and a lower striped one, the colors in the latter being blue and
+white, or white with a broad band of purplish blue, in which were woven
+white designs. Their _quichiquemil_ was usually rather plain; white with
+a broad band of red, magenta or purple, parallel to the edge. It might,
+however, be decorated with a number of very small geometrical, floral,
+and animal figures, worked in brown, purple and blue, which were never
+so crowded as to destroy the white background. At 9:30 we reached the
+schoolhouse and called out the teacher, to whom we delivered a letter
+which the _presidente_ of Pahuatlan had given us for him. He summoned
+the town authorities and we made known our wish to see some of the bark
+paper. At first there was some hesitancy, but, at last, an old woman
+produced two sheets which, she said, she made the day before. At our
+wish she then brought out the _tabla_, or board of wood on which the
+beating is done, and the stone for beating. The latter was smaller than
+the ancient beating-stone, and not grooved upon the beating surfaces; it
+had, however, the side notches for convenient holding in the hand. The
+board on which the beating is done is smooth, and is constantly cleaned
+and soaped. Two kinds of bark are used, _moral_ and _xalama_, the former
+giving white, the latter a purplish paper. The bark is thoroughly washed
+with lye-water taken from soaked maize; it is then washed with fresh
+water and thoroughly boiled; it is split into thin strips which are
+carefully arranged upon the board. First the border is laid out the size
+of the sheet to be made; then, within this, strips are laid lengthwise,
+side by side. All of this is then beaten with the stone until the sheet
+of paper results. The paper when finished, presents two sides quite
+different from each other; one, smooth and finished, is the surface that
+was below in the beating, while the other, rougher, is the one that was
+beaten with the stone. The sheets are dried in the sun, carefully folded
+into convenient size, and done up in packages of a dozen, which are sold
+to the indians in all the country round about. We secured seventeen
+dozen sheets of this paper, and samples of the bark, and the board and
+stone used in the beating.
+
+While arrangements were being made for showing us these details
+regarding paper-making, we visited the village church, which was very
+mean and bare; we were disappointed to find nothing suspicious in the
+way of _mu�ecos_. It was suggested that we should visit the _oratorio_,
+where we found more. Here they held their _costumbre_ in June, or
+thereabouts. Saints were arranged in the back of the room on a raised
+altar; in front of this, running through the middle of the room, was a
+table on which stood censers and small candle-sticks of rude pottery.
+Upon the wall, over the saints, were decorations of rushes. Here the
+whole village feast and dance. There were no _mu�ecos_ present, but we
+found plenty of cut paper, most of which was probably decorative; the
+most curious was cut into groups of human figures, some of which had
+crowns and horns, or tufts of hair, upon the top of their heads. These
+were said to be decorations for Montezuma, in whose honor the feast was
+given. Leaving San Pablo at eleven, we rapidly made what remained of the
+great ascent. As we neared the jagged crest of rock, it appeared more
+irregularly gashed and pinnacled than ever. At the crest, leaving the
+old road, which passed directly through the fantastic mass of rocks,
+we reached San Nicolas, from which, on looking backward, we gained a
+magnificent view of the valley and a fine waterfall, which shone like a
+sheet of polished metal, far up the mountain side. From here our road
+descended gently, but winding, in and out, through a series of narrow
+valleys, lying between parallel ridges. As we passed the crest, we saw a
+level field of green corn, which looked as if we must reach it in a few
+minutes. But the curves of the road proved frightfully long. It was
+after two o'clock before we reached the green field, and, just below it,
+Tenango del Doria, and made our way to the _jefatura_.
+
+When the _jefe_ came, we found, to our surprise, that he was the Don
+Pablo Leyra of whom Xochihua had told us two years before. He is a pure
+indian, tall, smooth-faced, of gentlemanly manner, and with all the
+reserve characteristic of his race. He has lived at Huehuetla since
+boyhood, forty-four years, till just now, and has but recently come to
+take the position of _jefe politico_. He has not yet moved his family
+from Huehuetla, and occupies a single room in his office-building. He
+secured us a pleasant room, with good beds for the older, and good
+mattresses for the younger, members of our party, in a house near-by
+upon the hill. The _jefatura_ fills one side of the little _plaza_;
+around the other side are _tiendas_, with high-pitched single roofs, and
+private houses. The town suffers much from _nublina_, and is cold most
+of the time.
+
+[Illustration: INDIANS FISHING IN STREAM]
+
+[Illustration: PAGANISM AND CHRISTIANITY]
+
+We asked Don Pablo about the lake, concerning which we had heard. He
+says it is not as much visited as formerly. While used by Otomis, and
+others of this district, it is most favored by the Huaxtecs, parties of
+whom go there from long distances. They visit it when there is drought,
+for fear that the siren, who lives in it, is annoyed at their neglecting
+to make gifts; when there is too copious rain, they visit it to beg her
+to desist from sending more, and, when crops have been destroyed, to
+placate her anger. Sometimes two or three hundred indians are in these
+companies. They bring _mu�ecos_ of wood, cloth, clay, or even metal;
+such are shod, clad and hatted. They leave these upon the shore. They
+also bring seeds and strew them in the water, and some throw money in.
+They also make offerings of turkeys and hens. Sometimes these bands
+spend several days on the shore, dancing and eating.
+
+We found that Don Pablo had arranged all our plans. We were to leave
+at nine, dine at twelve at San Bartolo, leave there at one, and reach
+Huehuetla between five and six. It was really only a quarter-past-nine
+when we did start, and the _jefe_, himself, saw us on our way. The
+journey was uneventful; the descents were gradual; we saw San Bartolo
+long before we reached it; and, between it and us, there lay a valley,
+like a narrow gash, down which we had to go, and up the other side of
+which we had to climb. We passed Santa Maria, an insignificant town,
+just before reaching the edge of this gully. From there we saw, in the
+mountain ahead, above and behind San Bartolo, a great cavern which we
+believe must belong to witches. Arriving at San Bartolo, we found
+the market in full progress, and had ample opportunity to see the
+characteristic dress of the women, with the little black, red and purple
+designs embroidered upon the white ground. We were impressively received
+at the town-house, for Don Pablo had telephoned them to be ready. Still,
+we waited a long time for the promised dinner, but at half-past-one
+climbed up a steep hill, in the rear of the town-house, to the home
+of the _presidente's_ father, where a very elaborate meal had been
+prepared, with wine and luxuries. All payment was refused, and, after we
+had rested and refreshed ourselves, we left at half-past-two. The road
+was long; it followed the side of a great gorge, into which it descended
+abruptly; in this gorge we saw magnificent vegetation. The trees were
+heavily hung with long vines and ferns; parasitic fig trees, hugging
+victims whose life sap they were stealing, were abundant. The country
+was of limestone. On the whole, the road was good, but, here and there,
+were patches where we traveled over sharp and jagged out-croppings of
+rock, and near Huehuetla we were forced to make some stiff climbs up the
+cliff sides. Flocks of parrots were numerous, especially toward evening.
+The stream was a handsome one, with clear, deep water; we crossed
+and recrossed many times. The foot-paths rarely crossed, being cut
+sometimes, as a narrow trail, in the rock of the cliff. Noticeable were
+numerous silvery lines of water falling over the cliff, several of which
+must have been hundreds of feet in height; these little threads of water
+were impregnated with lime, and deposited material in a sheet upon the
+bank over which they flowed, so that trails of brown tufa marked their
+location; the lower ends of these deposits expanded into fan-like masses
+of tufa, over which the water trickled, dripped or fell. Where there was
+not sufficient water to produce a stream and fall, but enough to keep
+the tufa moist, the growth of ferns, and other delicate vegetation, was
+brilliant and striking. We passed a number of coffee and sugar ranches
+on the road. It was dark long before we reached Huehuetla, and had it
+not been for the moonlight struggling through the clouds, we should have
+had difficulty in traveling the last portion of the road. At 7:35 we
+arrived, and went at once to the large and handsome house of Don Pablo
+himself, where we were expected, and where an elaborate supper was being
+made ready. The largest room in the house was put at our disposal and
+good beds and cots, beautifully clean and carefully made, were ready.
+Formerly, Don Pablo was the _presidente_ of the town. His successor was
+at the house to meet us, within five minutes after our arrival, and took
+supper with us. It is needless to say that in this town we met with no
+delays in our work. To our surprise, we found a fellow countryman, a
+civil engineer named Culin, from Philadelphia, who has done and is doing
+much work for the pueblos of this region.
+
+Huehuetla is a large town, occupying a long valley hemmed in between
+mountains and bordering a stream. The streets are regular, and the view
+from the hills about, looking down upon the well-built houses and the
+intersecting streets, is very pretty. The houses have substantial walls
+of stone and mud, and many of them are white-plastered outside; all have
+a thick and heavy thatch. The _plaza_ lies before the house where
+we stopped, and, to the right, the large church stands on a terrace
+somewhat above the town. A large school building, finer than many of the
+best in some large cities, was just being finished; its construction was
+due to Don Pablo's influence, and it was soon to be occupied. Meantime,
+the children were given instruction in the church, and at noon and
+evening, when their lessons were closed, they marched in double file,
+down the flight of steps in front of the church and across the _plaza_,
+where they separated and made their way home. During the time that we
+were working at this town, when the school children filed past, they
+always removed their hats in the most respectful manner. While there are
+many _mestizos_ in the town, it may truly be called an indian town, the
+largest of those belonging to the Tepehuas. According to Orozco y Berra,
+Tepehua is not related to any other language in Mexico. We have not
+studied it sufficiently to be sure that he is right; it is, however,
+certain that the language has been much affected by the Totonac, if it
+is not related to it, and many words in the two languages are the same.
+The people of this tribe have a great reputation, more or less deserved,
+for cleanliness; probably it is comparative, contrasting with the
+neighboring Otomis, rather than positive. However that may be, both men
+and women are usually dressed in clean white clothing. The _enaguas_
+of the women are plain white; their belts have a foundation of white
+cotton, but raised designs of black wool are so thickly worked upon them
+that the white is quite inconspicuous.
+
+The _camisas_ and _quichiquemils_ are generally white, with a vertical
+band of red, and with a few animal figures. Women wear many necklaces of
+bright beads, and braid their hair into two braids, which end with tapes
+of various colors,--brown, red, green, maroon, and black. These braids
+are brought together over the head and knotted in place. We secured no
+women for measure until we had practically completed the work with men,
+when they came with a rush, the whole twenty-five at once, dressed in
+their best clothing, and insisted that the work must be done inside
+the schoolhouse, out of sight, instead of on the street, where we had
+operated on the men. We had no opportunity to see any of the popular
+_danzas_, in some of which, we were told, songs were sung in the Tepehua
+language, but we did see examples of the little _teponastls_, or drums,
+used on these occasions; they are made from a round block, perhaps ten
+inches long and three inches in diameter; these are hollowed out below,
+so that two thin lips only are left above, which, when struck, give out
+far more musical tones than one might expect. The two nights that we
+were at Huehuetla, we saw men and women fishing in the stream; carrying
+blazing torches in their left hands, they waded out into the water and
+watched to see the dark bodies of the fish against the pebbly bottom of
+the stream; in the right hand they carried a _machete_, about a foot in
+length, with which they stabbed the fish, rarely missing.
+
+We were now ready for the last tribe of the season, the Totonacs of
+Pantepec. Pantepec is in the district of Huachinango, and we had no
+order from the _jefe_; Don Valentino, the _presidente_ of Huehuetla,
+said, however, that the _presidente_ of Pantepec was his friend, and
+that he would give us a letter of introduction, which would serve all
+purposes. As we were to return by Huehuetla, we left the busts which we
+had made, and all but our most necessary baggage, at Don Pablo's house.
+Though we started at ten, we took the journey slowly, photographing and
+hunting birds. The road was a trail in a ravine, with all the beautiful
+scenery with which we now were so familiar. At one point we saw a
+curious phenomenon. The cliff rose vertically from the water's edge, at
+a place where the stream made a right angle; this cliff consisted of
+almost horizontal strata of varying hardness, so that some of the layers
+were worn a little more than others, leaving these projecting. In the
+space between these projecting layers, round river-pebbles, from the
+size of hen's eggs up to the size of a man's fist, were firmly wedged,
+so that it was with difficulty that they could be dislodged. Not a few,
+but hundreds of the pebbles, were thus wedged, so regularly and firmly
+that we could not believe the work to be that of nature, but suspected
+human hands. We learned, however, that nature really had done the work,
+on the occasion of a flood, the result of a cloud-burst, which swept
+into the valley two or three years before. At several places in this
+stream, we saw groups of from two or three to ten or twelve Totonac
+indians, who were fishing with little nets. Our trail led back and forth
+across this stream many times, and before we reached Pantepec we had
+made thirty-nine crossings. From our last crossing, we climbed a steep
+ascent, passing the little village of Tenasco, and found ourselves at
+Pantepec. We rode at once to the town-house, and were told that the
+_presidente_ was sleeping; we went then to his house, where we were
+informed that he could not be disturbed. We left word that we must see
+him as soon as possible, and that he would find us at the _municipio_.
+Nearly three hours passed before he put in his appearance. Inasmuch
+as we had seen this man's _jefe_, and he knew our errand, we told
+the _secretario_ to send a message for us to him at Huachinango. We
+carefully wrote out the message for forwarding, in which we told the
+_jefe_, that we had waited three hours for attention from the town
+officials, and asked how much longer we should put up with delay. We
+never heard his answer, but in less than ten minutes, the _presidente_,
+covered with perspiration, was waiting for our orders and every
+policeman or the force was ready for our bidding. The message he
+received from the _jefe_ must have been vigorous, for not only was
+everything done for our comfort, but work was rushed. During the next
+day we measured ninety-eight men, photographed twelve subjects, and made
+moulds for all our five busts--an unparalleled day's labor. We were
+fortunate in one respect--that the men had been summoned that day for
+public labor. So far as men were concerned, they gave no difficulty as
+subjects. With the women it was different, and full half a day was taken
+in getting together our twenty-five types; not but what there were
+plenty of them, for our second day at Pantepec was market-day, and the
+_plaza_ was gay with women, but they did not wish to be measured, and
+the whole town force, from _presidente_ to the meanest _topil_, was
+afraid to meddle with them; at first, too, we had none but the most
+wretched cases, women broken down and worn out with years of labor. When
+nearly half our number had passed through our hands, and all presented
+this same unsatisfactory type, we were forced to make a sharp
+remonstrance, and only so did we get fair samples of young and
+middle-aged women.
+
+At Pantepec the centre of the town is _mestizo_; the Indians consist of
+Otomis, of whom there are thirty households, and Totonacs forming the
+bulk of the population. It is easy to distinguish the women of the two
+tribes by the difference in dress. The _quichiquemils_ are particularly
+picturesque. Both are more heavily loaded with embroidery than any
+Indian garments we had ever seen, but the styles of the two decorations
+are completely different. The _quichiquemils_ of the Otomis are smaller
+and completely covered with red and black embroidery; those of the
+Totonacs are much larger, and portions of the white foundations
+may still be seen, notwithstanding the heavy patterns in brilliant
+colors--red, green, yellow and blue. Mothers put babies onto one side,
+with their little legs astride a hip, and then tie them firmly in place
+with an _ayate_, or carry-cloth, of cotton, thus leaving their hands
+free for work or other burdens. If we had difficulty measuring the
+Totonac women, we had still greater difficulty in photographing
+satisfactory groups of them. Neither pleadings nor bribes on our part,
+orders nor threats on the part of the officials, had much influence.
+
+Pantepec is a large town, situated near the edge of the great mountain
+mass, and looking across a valley, which is backed by what appears to be
+a flat-topped, straight-edged, table mountain. The houses of the town
+are scattered over a considerable area upon the slope. The walls are of
+poles, heavily daubed with mud which is neatly and smoothly laid on. The
+corners of this mud covering are rounded, instead of angular, as usual
+elsewhere. The thatch is heavy and firm, and squarely cut along its
+lower edge, where it projects far beyond the walls. The _plaza_ is above
+the town-house, and is extremely ugly; a kiosk, which certainly can
+lay no claim to beauty, stands in the centre; ugly shacks, used as
+_tiendas_, border a part of it along the main road. Striking, at this
+time, in the village were the _color�n_ trees, some of which occurred
+in almost every enclosure; they were in bloom, and had long, slender,
+flaming-red, cigarette-shaped flowers, which appeared before the leaves,
+from trunks that were gnarled and brown and almost branchless. Many
+popular _danzas_ are celebrated here, but none was taking place during
+our stay. San Gregorio, the town of paper-making, is not far from
+Pantepec, and large quantities of the bark paper are beaten in the
+little village of Ixcoyotla, which belongs to this _municipio_. Asking
+an old Otomi whether he knew about this paper, he answered us, with
+great cunning, that we probably knew as much of it as he did. He finally
+condescended to state that the _mu�ecos_ of it were used in curing
+disease; that anyone who has a disease secures one of these _mu�ecos_
+and applies it to the diseased part. The _presidente_ insisted that this
+paper was not made from _jonote_, but from _uli_, and that formerly it
+was much used in making strong and durable belts.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+In starting back the next morning, we went down a different slope from
+the one by which we had come, with the result that we had to cross
+the stream five times more than before, making the full forty-four
+crossings, of which we had been warned by Culin while we were at
+Huehuetla. We made our way leisurely, stopped when we pleased, and at
+one point noticed a cave, which we had not seen before, just across the
+stream, at a point where it was at its deepest. The cave was so near the
+water's edge, that it could only be approached from the stream. The boys
+swam across and entered it to see if perchance they might find some of
+the paper figures used in _bruher�a_. They found little of interest
+within; the walls and rocks were marked with crosses, and on the floor
+were hundreds of little sticks cut to various lengths. We were glad,
+indeed, to reach Don Pablo's house, to eat his good supper, and to
+occupy his good beds. Before we went to bed, Do�a Panchita suggested
+that we ought to see certain _mu�ecos_ kept by a man named Diego, and
+used as idols by the village. Accordingly, she sent orders that the man
+should bring his _mu�ecos_ to the house for us to see. To this request,
+he returned the proper reply, that he would not do so; that they would
+be offended; that they were not toys to be carried about at the nod and
+beck of everyone. This greatly increased our interest, and we arranged
+for a trip to his house. We first sent a messenger forward, with word
+that we were coming, and ordered him to stay there to see that Diego
+did not run away or hide the idols. After supper, Do�a Panchita, our
+company, Mr. and Mrs. Culin, and one or two others, picked our way by
+moonlight across the stepping-stones and foot-bridge, up a trail by
+coffee groves along a purling brook-side. We were soon at the house, and
+after some hesitation, Diego led us to the Holy of Holies. The _mu�ecos_
+were kept in a little house, which contained an altar built of boards,
+with fresh flowers for decoration. At the back of the altar, against the
+wall, were prints of Christian saints; on the altar were censers and an
+open bundle of _copal_. Two wooden boxes were at the right end of the
+altar, against the wall. These contained _mu�ecos_ which, for some
+time, Diego hesitated to produce. Finally he took out an idol of rather
+fine-grained, brownish-gray stone; the head was large and infantile,
+with the Mongolian cast of countenance; its badly shaped and scrawny
+arms were raised so as to bring the hands together on the chest; the
+body was shapeless. This figure was clad in a suit of unbleached cotton,
+much too long and slender for it, and the arms of the _camisa_, and the
+legs of the _calzones_ hung limp. When we had duly admired this figure,
+a second was produced--a pottery female-head, fairly shaped, with no
+body to speak of; this had glass earrings fastened in the ears. Next, a
+small headless figure was brought out; it was old, though probably made
+after the Conquest, and we agreed that it represented a _padre_. Next
+was a simple pottery head. Last was a figure, with small head and
+pointed cap, made apparently of pottery; the body had been pieced out to
+disproportionate length with wood, and ended in a pair of wooden feet;
+this was dressed in black velvet, and wore a black hat. These, Diego
+asserted, were all he had. After having expressed our delight with them,
+and our regret that we had not known what we were to see, that we might
+have brought with us some fine white _copal_ as incense for these gods,
+we set them up in a straight line on the edge of the altar to make a
+flashlight picture. As we left, we gave Diego two _reales_ to spend for
+the benefit of his gods. After we left, we were assured that he had
+finer ones of black stone, which he dresses in red, but we were content
+with the ones we had seen. These figures are particularly used on
+September 16th, San Miguel's day. They are also used at sowing-time, at
+harvest, and at the first cutting of sugar-cane. On these occasions,
+incense and candles are burned, the idols are taken in the hands, and to
+the sound of music, worshippers move the figures, causing them to dance.
+Pleased with this, they give good rains to the faithful worshippers.
+When there is too much rain, they go in procession to the river, playing
+music and dancing dolls; when arrived, they peg down many _ayates_ and
+sacks, made for the purpose, into the water against the flow. These are
+dams, to stay the flood. On the other hand, when there is drought, a
+procession carries the idols to a cave, where a feast is given and a
+dance, with wands of flowers carried in the hands, indulged in.
+
+Though the price for animals from Huehuetla to Las Tortugas was
+exorbitant, we had agreed to pay it--but told the man that, if he left
+later than six, it should be cut two dollars. It was long after eight
+before they appeared, and then it was only our own animals that were
+ready. We were forced to leave the packing to be done by the man himself
+without direction; we ourselves hurried along the trail, hardly stopping
+at San Bartolo on the way, arriving at Tenango at 4:15. Our animals
+were fagged, and we were soaked to the skin, having travelled through
+_nublina_ most of the afternoon. Don Pablo received us with his usual
+courtesy, and had arranged for us to sleep at the same house, where we
+had been before. At bed-time, our man with the mules had not appeared,
+and we had received most contradictory and discouraging statements
+regarding him. He had started at nine with two mules and left half our
+stuff for another day; he had been seen at the river near San Bartolo
+with two mules heavily loaded, unable to proceed; he had concluded to
+stop at San Bartolo for the night, to push on to Tenango the next day,
+and reach Las Tortugas on the third. Dissatisfied and uncertain, we went
+to bed; still, we determined to leave at five, and so gave orders to
+our _mozo_. We rose at 4:15 and the horses were ready before five.
+Contradictory stories were again told us regarding our animals. Some
+said the man had passed with them at five o'clock; others that he had
+not yet come; others that he had spent the night at Santa Maria. Our
+foot _mozo_ did not come, and sending the rest ahead, I waited for him.
+Hardly had they started, when Ramon galloped back to announce that the
+man was in town, that he had three animals and was nearly ready to
+leave. As he, himself, had told us that he must leave Tenango at three
+in order to reach Las Tortugas in time for the train, this was not
+reassuring. Ramon hastened on with the party. At six the _mozo_ appeared
+and started at once. In a few minutes we passed our _arriero_ who was
+packing, but not ready to start. I urged him to hasten, but did not
+wait. Mist had settled during the night, but it was now rising, and we
+could see the scenery, which, in wildness and beauty, was almost the
+equal of anything in Mexico, though with a character quite its own. Our
+trail ran along the side of a precipice; to our left rose great cliffs
+presenting almost vertical faces of smooth rock; the summits were
+jagged, and suggested that the mass consisted of stratified rocks tilted
+up on end. Just as we left town, two narrow and lofty parallel rocks
+suggested a gate-way. Further down, a mass was worn out into a sharp
+column, a little separated from the rock mass behind. On the right, was
+the precipice, ever abrupt, and sometimes the almost vertical bank of a
+yawning chasm. After an hour and a half over the fairly good road, we
+came to a grand ascent. It was magnificent, though difficult. In some
+spots the road was muddy, and at others it was a series of rough stone
+steps; at still others, it was the unmodified bed of a mountain torrent.
+As we followed up this gorge, side-gorges joined it, in which we
+glimpsed pretty cascades, pits worn by little falls, trees, the trunks
+of which were covered with thick sheets of green moss, quantities of
+tree-ferns blighted by the late frost, cliffs, and wild forms of rock,
+in wonderful variety. At last I reached the summit and overtook Manuel,
+whose horse was completely fagged, and who had been forced to drop
+behind; for some time we saw the others before us, but somewhere they
+took a different trail, and we saw them no more. After a considerable
+descent, we made our final but easy rise. From here we were on a level
+road, which constantly improved until near Mepetec, while beyond it, we
+came to a true cart-road. From here a fine view presented itself, over
+a forest of pine trees to the clean brown plain so typical of Hidalgo,
+swept, as we soon found, by the equally typical Hidalgo wind. We rode
+rapidly from the _herrer�a_ of the Trinidad to Metepec, and then to Las
+Tortugas, where we arrived at 11:40, having been five hours and a half
+upon the road. To our surprise, Louis and Ramon were not there. Having
+waited some time, as it was almost the hour for the train, we ordered
+dinner for two, but before we had begun to eat the others appeared.
+They had taken a short road, which did not go by Metepec, and travelled
+slowly that we might overtake them. After a good meal, we waited for
+our man with the pack animals. Meantime the train was preparing, and we
+watched it, realizing that if we missed it, we had a day of dust and
+scorching sun and heavy wind before us. The train's crew made all ready,
+the cry of "_V�monos_" was given, and we settled down in desperation to
+await our tardy man. An hour after the train left, he arrived, received
+his fee less the two dollars, and started homeward. Twenty-three hours
+later we took the train, and our season's work was done.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXI
+
+IN THE HUAXTECA
+
+(1901)
+
+
+The scenery on the Tampico branch was at its best, as there had been
+recent rains, and everything was fresh and green. At Tampico, we
+resisted the attractions of the hotels "where Americans always stop,"
+and went to the unpretentious Pan Cardo. Here we were comfortably
+located, and early the next morning tried to define our plans. We were
+in uncertainty as to what towns we should visit in order to examine
+the Huaxtecs. The ancient Huaxtecs were among the most interesting of
+Mexican tribes. They are a northern offshoot of that great family, of
+which the Maya of Yucatan is the type. The linguistic relationship is
+evident upon the most careless comparison. The ancient area occupied
+by the Huaxtecs was near the Gulf of Mexico, and on both sides of the
+Panuco River, near the mouth of which some of their important centres
+were located. To-day Mexicans divide the Huaxteca into two parts,--the
+Huaxteca Veracruzana and the Huaxteca Potosina--the former in the state
+of Vera Cruz, the latter in the state of San Luis Potosi. At first,
+we thought to visit the latter, but the difficulty of reaching it was
+presented so forcibly, and the ease of reaching the Huaxteca Veracruzana
+so emphasized, that we determined upon the latter, and selected the town
+of Ozuluama for our central point. We could go by canoes across the
+river to Pueblo Viejo, where we could secure horses for the further
+journey. We were led to believe that it would be easy to make the trip
+in a single day. We had arranged for a canoe over night. It belonged in
+Pueblo Viejo, and it was to come over early in the morning; we were at
+the wharf at six, ready to start, but no canoe was in sight. Not only
+so, but a norther was blowing, and comforters, lounging on the wharf
+assured us that no canoe would come from Pueblo Viejo until the storm
+ceased, which would not be for twenty-four hours. We were loath to
+believe this information, and brought all our baggage from the various
+storing-places, where we had left it, out onto the wharf. Time passed;
+the norther continued, and no canoe from Pueblo Viejo came. Thinking
+that it might be possible to secure a canoe from here to Pueblo Viejo,
+we dickered with a boatman at the wharf. We had agreed to pay for the
+canoe ordered $1.00 for the journey, which was something more than the
+regular price. The man with whom we now were talking declared that he
+would not take us across for less than $3.50. We were on the point of
+yielding to necessity, when a rival appeared and offered to do the work
+for $2.50. Such is human perversity that we now insisted that he must
+go for $2.00, which he finally agreed to do. Hurrying away to get his
+canoe, he soon appeared, and our hearts sank. The man who had demanded
+$3.50 had a large, well-built boat, which should stand any wind and
+water. The man whom we had engaged had a canoe so narrow, low, and small
+that we doubted his ability to perform his contract; however, he assured
+us that all would be well, and showed himself so skilful in packing our
+stuff into his boat, that we ourselves embarked, and started down the
+little lagoon in his canoe. So long as we remained in this narrow,
+sheltered stream, all was well; but when he poled from its mouth out to
+the open river, we found it a different matter. More than this, we saw
+two or three canoes dancing over the white caps, and managed with great
+difficulty, although not loaded. The courage of our boatman was a little
+dashed; he suggested that we leave Ramon, Louis, and Manuel on an old
+scow standing on the bank and fast going to ruin, while he poled myself
+and the luggage over, after which he would return for my companions.
+This seemed good sense, and the boys were left behind. It was
+interesting to see the skill with which the man handled our rather
+awkward craft, loaded at it was almost to the water's edge. He had no
+motive power but his long pole. We did not ship a single drop of water,
+and at last entered the quiet, broad, canal-like lagoon on the other
+side of the river. A moment more, and we were unloading our luggage onto
+the shore. To do this, we were forced to wade through mud up to the
+knees. But at last all was safe, and with his empty canoe, our boatman
+started merrily back for his other passengers. When they arrived, only
+a few minutes were necessary for reloading the canoe, and we started up
+the lagoon. Little side lagoons opened frequently into the one through
+which we passed. At their mouths were V-shaped weirs of stakes, driven
+into the bottom and wattled together with flexible twigs. These were
+open at the mouth, and in the openings were set dip-nets, which could
+be lowered into the water. Just now, with the heavy norther blowing,
+thousands of _camar�n_ (shrimps) were driven into the nets, and at each
+one we saw fishermen busily occupied. The lagoon abounded in water-birds
+of many kinds, and hardly had we entered it, when Louis shot a pretty,
+small white heron.
+
+Believing that the owner of animals to whom we had been referred was
+demanding too high a price for his horses and mules, we decided to see
+what the town authorities would do for us, and went to the _municipio_.
+The _presidente_ told us, with delight, that the _jefe politico_ of
+Ozuluama was there with his family, rusticating, and at once summoned
+him to meet us. He was a gentlemanly fellow, who told us that the price
+demanded was regular, but advised us to travel in a different way.
+"Here," he said, "you can get a large canoe; starting now, you can
+travel all night; reaching La Llave in the early morning, you can get
+horses and go the seven leagues remaining comfortably. Take a little
+something to eat before you start, and carry something for the way."
+This seemed an opportunity for a new experience, and, though the price
+was little, if any, less than we were asked to pay for animals, we
+decided to try it. Arrangements were begun at once, breakfast ordered,
+and a light lunch prepared for carrying. Meantime, the _jefe_ told us
+that there were few Indians in Ozuluama, but that in Citlaltepec we
+would find abundance. He gave us orders to his _secretario_, who
+represented him during his absence, and bade us god-speed. We left at
+one o'clock, in a great canoe, a heavy, timber-framed boat, propelled
+by long poles, by oars in quiet and deep water, and by a clumsy sail. A
+framework of poles, covered with matting, roofed over the middle of the
+boat, and a piece of matting was spread upon the floor. Hanging blankets
+to shelter ourselves from the heavy wind yet blowing, we busied
+ourselves variously, the boys skinning birds which they had shot, and I
+making up my various notes. The lagoon which we now entered was a large
+stretch of open water. We raised our sail, and made easy work. Having
+crossed the large lagoon, we entered the mouth of what probably would be
+considered a fair-sized river, which at first was closely bordered by a
+tangle of trees and vines, and presented a truly tropical appearance.
+Palms were abundant, and, here and there, one of unusual size towered
+high above the rest. The other trees were densely hung with long gray
+moss. Now and then, we disturbed alligators along the banks, and we were
+told that snakes were abundant in the grass. The quantity of water-birds
+was astonishing--great and small white herons, large blue herons, little
+blue herons, the curious, dark wry-necks, and ducks by thousands. The
+positions and attitudes of these long-necked and long-legged birds, in
+the water and on the trees, were curious and striking. The boys kept
+busy shooting and skinning birds all the afternoon. In the evening, the
+men built a fire with charcoal in a tin-lined box in the end of the
+canoe, and toasted _tortillas_ and made coffee. The awning was scarcely
+large enough to cover the whole party comfortably, when we lay down
+to sleep, but we wrapped up in blankets and spread mats for beds. We
+suffered intensely with the cold, sleeping little. At five o'clock our
+boat came to a stop along the bank, and at six it was light enough to
+disembark and explore. Climbing up a little bank of clay, we found
+ourselves on a flat meadow, covered with grass and weeds, through which
+narrow trails ran to a few scattered palm-thatched huts. With a letter
+from the _jefe_, we called at Se�ora Mora's house. This lady was a
+widow, whose husband had but lately died; she was well to do, and
+promised to supply us with animals after we should have had our
+breakfast. This was long preparing, but at last good coffee, fine
+_enchiladas_ and cheese were served, and, after eating heartily, we
+found six animals ready for us. When we asked for our account, the good
+lady replied that the bill was $2.00. It was plain that she had made no
+charge for either breakfast or animals, but only something for the
+boys whom she sent along to bring back the beasts. At about eleven, we
+started on what was called seven leagues, but what was certainly the
+longest nine leagues we had travelled for a long time. We had excellent
+horses that kept up a steady jog. Still, it was after five when we
+reached Ozuluama. The journey was for the most part over a _llano_,
+thicket-covered and sprinkled, here and there, with groves of palm;
+the soil was dark clay, which in spots, wet by recent rains, was hard
+travelling for the animals. We caught sight of the town, prettily
+located upon a hill-slope, about an hour before we reached it. From it,
+we looked out over an extensive stretch of dark green plains, broken,
+here and there, by little wooded hillocks, none of them so large as that
+upon which Ozuluama itself is situated. Riding to the town-house,
+the _secretario_ was at once sent for. He ordered supper, and put a
+comfortable room, behind the office, at our disposal. On the back porch,
+just at our door, was chained a tiger-cat. It belonged to the _jefe_,
+and was a favorite with his little children, but since they had been
+gone, it had been teased until it had developed an ugly disposition. It
+was a beautiful little creature, graceful in form and elegantly spotted.
+But it snarled and strove to get at everyone who came near it. The
+_secretario_ at once told us that Citlaltepec was not the point we ought
+to aim for, as it was purely Aztec; our best plan was to go to Tamalin,
+where we would find one congregation of Huaxtecs. From there, if we
+needed further subjects, we might go to Tancoco, although it did not
+belong to this district, but to that of Tuxpan. In the course of our
+conversation, I was reminded that Ozuluama is the home of Alejandro
+Marcelo, a full-blooded Huaxtec, who once published a book upon the
+Huaxtec language. Expressing an interest in meeting this man, he was
+sent for. He is far older than I had realized, celebrating his 74th
+birthday that very week. He was a man of unusual intelligence and most
+gentle manner. At nine o'clock next morning, supplied with new animals,
+we started for Tamalin, said to be thirteen leagues distant. We were
+well mounted, and the journey was much like that of the preceding day.
+For three hours we were impressed with the loneliness of the road; no
+people were to be seen anywhere. Here and there, set far back from the
+road, were country houses. The road itself was an extremely wide one,
+cut through a woods, which consisted for the most part of low and
+scrubby trees, with scattered clumps of palm trees here and there.
+Usually the trail was single, but where we came on mud patches, many
+little trails were distributed over the whole breadth of the road. Here
+and there, where there were particularly bad spots, into which our
+horses would have sunk knee-deep, we were forced to take trails back
+among the trees. While the earlier part of the journey was through
+rolling country, we came at noon into a true plain, though wooded. We
+found many cross roads, broad and straight, cut through the woods, and
+were impressed by the great number of dry _barrancas_ into which we
+had to descend, and out of which we had to climb. Most of these were
+actually dry, but many of them contained a dirty pool of stagnant water.
+At many places, the road was bordered with plants, the leaves of which
+somewhat resembled those of the pineapple. They were light green in
+color, narrow and long-pointed at the upper end, and spiny along the
+sides. This plant, named _guamara_, bears spikes of yellow fruits which
+are pointed at the upper end, but in color, size, texture, structure and
+taste reminded us of podophyllum, though it leaves a prickly sensation
+in the mouth, much like that produced by fresh pineapples. There were
+also many trees bearing little limes or lemons, of which we gathered
+abundance for making lemonade. At two o'clock our man pointed out a
+ranch-house near the road, in front of which two men sat eating, and
+told us we could procure food and drink there if we wished, and that we
+had plenty of time for stopping. We found the men at the table to be the
+parish priest of Tantima and his servant. The priest informed us that
+Tamalin was three and three-fourths leagues away, while Tantima was
+four. The road for the greater part of the distance to the two places
+was the same. We had an interesting conversation with the good priest,
+and for the first time we met the curious prejudice, which exists
+throughout this portion of the Huaxteca, against the Huaxtecs, and in
+favor of the Aztecs. We were kept waiting some little time for our
+dinner, but by three o'clock were again upon our way. Just as we
+started, we crossed the first true stream which we had met, but during
+the balance of the journey we crossed one or two others. Soon, leaving
+the main road, we bore off to the left, and found several bad spots of
+stiff black mud, into which our poor animals sank frightfully. After
+five o'clock we saw, from the slope on which we were, for we had left
+the _llano_ and were again in rolling country, a little village, and
+higher and further to the left, a second. The first of these was
+Gutierrez Zamora, which is Huaxtec, with a few Mexican families living
+at one side; the second was our destination, Tamalin. We passed through
+Gutierrez at six, and reached Tamalin at seven.
+
+The _alcalde_ of the village was not there; in fact, we suspect that
+he but rarely is. The _secretario_, likewise, was absent. We finally
+prevailed upon his brother to help us to find an indian girl to cook our
+meals, and a room in the _secretario's_ house. In this room there was
+but a single bed and our helper thought me very particular in demanding
+that _petates_ should be brought as beds for my companions. He assured
+us that, when he traveled, he slept upon the floor, without _petates_.
+It was long after 10 o'clock before we had supper and secured a
+resting-place. We had planned to push out from here the following
+morning; no sign, however, of our baggage had appeared, and we were
+forced to spend two days at Tamalin waiting for its coming. Here, too,
+we found that there were no Huaxtecs, the town being, so far as it was
+indian, purely Aztec. We decided, therefore, to try Tancoco, returning,
+if need be, to Gutierrez. Both Gutierrez and Tancoco were in the
+district of Tuxpan. Fortunately, we still carried our last year's letter
+from the governor of Vera Cruz to serve us with the local authorities,
+as it would be most inconvenient to go to Tuxpan for orders. Seeing
+that it was impossible to leave that day, I walked in the afternoon to
+Tantima to visit the priest. Between the two towns rises a fine, high
+rock hill. The ascent from Tamalin was in three slopes, with short
+levels between; the crest was but a few yards wide; the descent to
+Tantima was abrupt and short. From the summit we looked down upon the
+pretty, level, enclosed valley occupied by a rather regular town, built
+about a large plaza which, the day being a market day, was gay with
+booths and people. I met almost the whole population of Tamalin on my
+way over, as they returned from market. All the men were drunk; some
+were so helpless that they sprawled upon the road, while others were
+being helped by their more sober comrades. I reached the plaza just
+thirty-seven minutes after leaving Tamalin, and at once telegraphed to
+Ozuluama about the baggage. When I inquired for the priest's house, the
+telegraph operator informed me that the _padre_ had told him all about
+us and our errand and that he would accompany me to the _curato_.
+Crossing the square, we found the _padre_ living in a comfortable place,
+close by the great, pretentious, stone church. We were warmly welcomed,
+and orders were at once given for coffee. The Aztec servant hastened to
+bring some, piping hot, and was quite abashed at being sharply reproved
+for offering it directly to me. No, indeed, a gentlemen so distinguished
+was not to be thus served; the table was moved up before my chair, a
+clean cloth spread, sweet cakes were sent for, a glass of fresh milk
+placed, and then the coffee was set upon the table. Thus, in solitary
+grandeur, I sat and ate and drank, while the priest and operator took
+their cups of coffee in their hands. Though we had ordered horses for
+the following morning, the baggage had not come, and we waited all the
+day. Strolling around the village, we found it a pretty place, through
+which ran a fine stream, separating the houses into groups or clusters.
+It is a true Aztec town, and the houses are well-constructed. Several
+houses are set irregularly within a single enclosure; the walls are
+built of poles set upright, but these are so heavily daubed with a
+mixture of mud and chopped straw that they are strong and durable. In
+applying this daub, the hand is used, and a simple block of wood of
+rectangular form, with a projecting edge extending midway of the upper
+side, is used as a trowel for spreading it, and giving it a smooth
+finish. The thatchings are thick, and project far beyond the walls; they
+are of palm, and neatly cut at the edges; a cresting, thin, but evenly
+placed and firmly pegged down, projects over the ridge, down either
+slope, and its edges form the only break in the smooth surface. Many of
+the houses had _temascals_, differing considerably from those of Puebla
+and Tlaxcala. They are rectangular; the walls are built of poles,
+set upright, close together, and strengthened by being lashed to a
+horizontal timber set midway of their height. The roof is a round vault
+or arch of poles set lengthwise. The whole is neatly plastered over with
+a mixture of mud and chopped straw, and in the front a cross is worked
+in the clay mixture, to insure good fortune. The women here wove cotton
+in the usual indian fashion, but few wore the old dress, and those few
+were mostly aged. We noticed quantities of pottery here, and throughout
+the Huaxteca, but none of it is local in manufacture. Most of it has
+come from the two towns, Huejutla, an Aztec town, and Panuco. We were
+forced to spend a third night at Tamalin. The _secretario_ had been at
+home for two days and had fairly done his duty; still, our animals were
+late when we were ready to start the following morning, and we were not
+off until 9:30. It was a steady climb, over a long series of ascents,
+until we reached a crest from which Tancoco could be seen. We made
+a long descent and then a little upward climb to the town, which is
+notable for its cleanliness and the industry and cleanness of its
+inhabitants. The town is situated upon a little hill, from which one
+looks out on a sea of green forests, with little rocky hillocks covered
+with trees rising from it, here and there, like wooded islands. Between
+us and Tamalin rose a semi-circle of ridges, sweeping from us off to the
+left and forward in the distance. In front, near the top of this curve
+of ridges, two leagues distant, lay Amatlan, clear and impressive, from
+this point. Riding up to the little town-house, which had a portico
+enclosed by a neat railing and supplied with pine benches, we
+dismounted, and, with some doubt as to its reception, presented our old
+letter. The _secretario_ was an intelligent _mestizo_ from Tuxpan. He
+sent at once for the _alcalde_, who was a good-natured, little Huaxtec,
+of pure blood, thoroughly dependent upon his subordinate officer. We
+were promised everything. The schoolhouse, remarkably clean, was put
+at our disposal, and a messenger was sent to notify an old woman named
+Guadelupe that she was to prepare our meals. Before four o'clock, work
+was under way, and during the two days that we remained, there were no
+difficulties. The houses of the town are somewhat like those of Tamalin,
+but less well built. The single industry is the weaving of hats from
+palm. On the house-roofs, and on the ground before the houses, palm was
+drying. Some of the work was extremely delicate, and the four grades of
+hats sell for from four pesos upward. Men, women and children are all
+occupied in the manufacture, and as they sit in their houses or at the
+door of an evening, or as they walk through the village on errands,
+their hands are ever busily occupied with the plaiting. There is
+absolutely nothing characteristic in dress, both men and women dressing
+like _mestizos_ in the important cities of the Republic. Almost every
+one wears shoes; women, those with high French heels. A resident tailor
+makes the bulk of the clothing for the more particular men of the
+town. In our school-room we were supplied with good kerosene lamps, an
+experience almost unique. Few, if any, of the houses in the village
+were without the same mode of light. Many, if not all, of the women had
+sewing-machines.
+
+[Illustration: VIEW AT TANCOCO]
+
+We were more than ever impressed with the anomalous condition of these
+people in their own land. They were the cleanest, most industrious, best
+dressed and most progressive indians whom we had seen in any part of
+Mexico; but in the Huaxteca, the land which bears their name, they are
+being crowded by the less progressive Aztecs. _Mestizos_ and Aztecs both
+speak of them with contempt, and treat them like dogs. As for their
+language, it is neglected and despised; while many of them know both
+Spanish and Aztec, neither _mestizo_ nor Aztec considers it worth while
+to know a word of Huaxtec. While we had no trouble with the men, we
+began to feel that the women would fail us. It was after five o'clock,
+the last day of our stay, before a single one appeared. Then they came
+in a body, accompanied by the full town force, and each with her husband
+as a guard, to our quarters. They were dressed in their best calico,
+muslin, silk and satin, with laces and artificial flowers, earrings,
+necklaces, and with shoes the heels of which measured from thirty to
+thirty-five millimeters. They were perfumed; their hair was heavily
+oiled with odorous greases. Each shook hands with our whole party,
+greeted us politely, and sat down on the long school-benches, waiting
+for her turn for measurement. Notwithstanding this rather oppressively
+lady-like mode of procedure, we were assured by old Guadelupe that our
+errand and work in the town had caused much terror and doubt, the women
+particularly feeling sure that it boded ill. It was said that they
+recalled the fact that years ago certain of their old men predicted that
+strangers would eventually come to the village, who would bewitch the
+people and destroy the town. It was commonly believed that we were now
+fulfilling this prediction.
+
+The physical type of the Huaxtecs seems to be well marked. A peculiar
+gray tint underlies the brown color of the skin. The head is short,
+broad, and curiously compressed behind; the eyes are wide apart, and
+frequently oblique; the mouth is large, with thick but not projecting
+lips.
+
+We had planned to leave about the middle of the afternoon, and at 3:50
+the best animals we have ever had were ready for our use. A magnificent
+horse, the special pride of the _alcalde_ himself, was put at my
+disposal. When we came to settle for the animals, all payment was
+refused, their use being the voluntary offering of the town officials.
+The animals made nothing of the journey, and within an hour and a half
+we had again reached Tamalin.
+
+We found that Aztec town as disagreeable as ever. Solemn promises had
+been made that various _danzas_ should be ready for us, and that there
+should be no delay regarding animals. Of course, we found nothing doing.
+The only satisfactory memory connected with the town is our cook,
+Porfiria. She was a master hand, and with training, should make a
+reputation and a fortune. A pure indian, we would rather eat at her
+table than at that of any half-breed cook in all that section. She
+always had quantities of food, and no two meals were alike. Unless we
+expressly ordered something we had had before, it is doubtful whether
+she would have repeated a single dish. Her _enchiladas_, seasoned with
+cheese and onions, were the best we ever had, and after the first
+experience, we insisted on having them at every meal. Her masterpieces
+were in simple maize. Her _tortillas_ were good, but _tortillas_ one
+finds everywhere; she served _cocoles, chavacanes_, and _pemol. Cocoles_
+are round, flat biscuits or cakes of maize, a couple of inches across
+and half an inch in diameter; they contain shortening, and when served
+hot, are delicious. _Chavacanes_ are thin, flat square crackers of
+corn-meal with shortening and eggs; they are good even when cold, but
+are best when hot from the griddle. _Pemol_ is a corn-cake, crumbly,
+sweet, and baked; it contains sugar and shortening, and is made up into
+the form of rather large cakes, shaped like horse-collars.
+
+As the result of vigorous remonstrance, the _secretario_ really had the
+_danza_ of _los Negros_ at his house that night. Music was furnished by
+_pito_ and _huehuetl_. The two performers, one representing a Spaniard
+and the other a negro, were masked. The action was lively, and the
+dialogue vociferous--both players frequently talking at once. The dance
+was kept up until nearly ten o'clock, after which, as we planned an
+early start, we were soon in bed. Just as we were dropping off to sleep,
+we heard the whistling and roaring of the norther outside, and the cold
+air found its way through every crack into our room. From our house the
+musicians and the dancers had gone to the _syndico's_, where they stayed
+some time; but, between one and two in the morning, they came back to
+our house and played in the room next to ours, with the door wide open.
+Our interest was not great enough to lead us forth again. Finally they
+left, but at four o'clock the musicians, now quite drunk, appeared
+again, and for a long time the _secretario_, his lady, and the
+school-master, danced in lonely grandeur up and down the room.
+
+[Illustration: OUR CANOE FOR SIXTY HOURS; THE LAGOONS]
+
+[Illustration: MANGROVE ROOTS]
+
+Don Leandro, the _secretario_, had promised to accompany us the
+following morning as far as San Geronimo. We had decided to go on
+horseback to Paso Real, a little distance beyond San Geronimo, and there
+take boat for Tampico. When morning came, we expressed surprise over Don
+Leandro's charging rent, in addition to the rather large price which we
+had already paid for beds. This seemed to hurt his sensitive feelings,
+with the result that we started without his company. The ride was
+monotonous, over a road which made few ascents or descents, and
+presented little of variety or interest. Little green hills bordered
+the road on either side, and on many of them were ranch-houses, some of
+rather good construction. In a little stream over which we passed, we
+saw a great idol's head, of stone, a foot or more across, and well
+made. San Geronimo we found to be the comfortable country-house of the
+_alcalde_ of Tamalin and all the ranches among which we had made our
+journey. It was a fine old place, with high airy rooms, good verandas,
+and an old-fashioned tile roof. Our journey had been hot, and we found a
+fine breeze blowing through the house. The _alcalde_ knew all about
+our errand and was ready to be helpful. He was a tall, slender,
+mild-mannered and polite _mestizo_. After we had eaten, he rode with us
+to Paso Real to arrange about a boat and point out various objects of
+interest on the way. _Chapapote_, from which chewing gum is made, is an
+important product here, and among those interested in it as a business
+is an American dentist. We saw many birds, among which doves were
+conspicuous; the _alcalde_ says that six or eight species occur here,
+the different kinds singing at different seasons; one of them had a
+peculiarly sad and mournful song, and is heard in the early morning.
+Another bird, the _primavera_, seems to be like our mockingbird,
+imitating the notes and cries of many other birds and animals. At two
+places we passed black lines of foraging ants, and he told us that
+insects, frogs, toads, and even snakes, encountered by these lines, are
+helpless, being promptly overcome and devoured. Arrived at Paso Real,
+the _alcalde_ arranged for our boat. He told us that loaded boats
+require three days for making the journey to Tampico, but that ours,
+being empty, would probably go through in twenty-four hours. The boat he
+arranged for had been partly loaded, but its owner had agreed to unload
+in order to receive us. As a favor to him, we consented to permit five
+or six not large boxes to go along. Having ordered supper for us at the
+house upon the summit from which the road descended to Paso Real, the
+_alcalde_ left us. Supper was slow, but at last was over. Our baggage
+had already been carried to the boat, and we strolled down to take our
+passage. Less room was left for us than we had expected the boxes would
+leave, but it was dark and we raised no question. We waited an impatient
+hour for our canoemen to take their supper, being almost devoured by
+mosquitoes, but at last were off at nine o'clock. Our force consisted
+of two men and a little lad. It was with difficulty that two could
+be accommodated beneath the awning, and Manuel and I took our places
+outside. For my own part, sleep was impossible. Now that we were in
+motion, the mosquitoes ceased to trouble us. The stream was narrow, and
+on account of the curves, we were forced to move slowly. We floated out
+under and beneath bamboos, which hung far over the water and outlined
+themselves like lace-work against the sky. At first, there was
+moonlight. Later, the moon set, but the stars were brilliant. The early
+morning was cold, and a heavy dew dampened everything outside the
+awning. During the day our men stopped on every pretext to rest and
+sleep, and whenever we came to a considerable stretch of water, any sign
+of storm or cloud was heralded. Just before daybreak, we had reached the
+beginning of the first large lagoon. Here our sail was hoisted, though
+it was of little use, while we poled along near shore, following all the
+long curves. Our first stop, on account of a norther, was exciting; from
+the anxiety of the men, we expected to be instantly upset. We ran
+into the mouth of a little stream and lay to, and the men were almost
+instantly asleep. Our party went out exploring; our landing place was a
+heap of shells, whether artificial or natural I am not sure; the place
+was a favorite spot with hunters of caimans, or alligators, and we found
+numbers of almost complete skeletons and skulls lying on the banks. The
+boys picked up quantities of scales and teeth, and it was interesting to
+see how the new conical teeth grow up under the hollows of the old ones.
+We killed a duck or two for supper. One or two large caimans were seen,
+as we strolled along. Finally, I insisted upon the men starting again.
+We were traversing a system of great lagoons which opened one into
+another. Poling was our only mode of progress. That night Manuel and I
+occupied the shelter. When we rose, we found the great lagoon, through
+which we were then passing, quite different in its character from those
+preceding it. Thickets of mangroves bordered the shore; the display
+of aerial roots was interesting, and here we were able to examine the
+curious smooth tips of the roots which are to penetrate the soft mud
+bottom. We landed at one place to get wood and to catch a glimpse of
+the sea, whose roaring we had for hours heard. We left our boat in the
+lagoon, and walked a short distance over sand dunes, thickly grown with
+trees, to the beach, which only appeared in sight when we reached the
+top of the last dune. It was a gently sloping sandy stretch, upon which
+a fine surf was beating. There were no pebbles save bits of water-worn
+coral and shell. Quantities of sea-gulls were flying about and flocks of
+little snipe ran down over the retreating surf, catching food, turning
+and running rapidly in before the coming wave. A single shot into the
+flock killed thirty-one of the little creatures, which later in the day
+supplied us an excellent meal. From this lagoon of mangroves, we finally
+entered the great lagoon of La Riviera, which pretty town we passed a
+little before three o'clock. From here we knew that, by hiring horses,
+we could reach Tampico in two hours; had we really known what lay before
+us, we would have done so. Having passed La Riviera, we entered a narrow
+canal, bordered for the most part with tall, flat rushes and a great
+grass much like our wild rice. Here again we saw large herons and great
+kingfishers; the boys had repeatedly tried to shoot one of the latter
+birds, but with no success; finally, one was seen standing on the branch
+of a tree hanging over the stream; this one was shot, and when we picked
+it up, we found it to be curiously distorted, the breast being strangely
+swollen. When skinned, this swelling proved to be due to a fish which
+the bird had eaten, and which was almost as large as itself. Weighted
+with this heavy burden, it is no wonder that the bird had been shot so
+easily. At dusk we found ourselves at a landing-place, where we left the
+boxes, which turned out to be eight in number, each of which weighed one
+hundred and twenty-five pounds. They contained _chapapote_. Our men had
+talked much of _the_ canal, to which, for some time, we had been looking
+forward. At this landing, arrangements were made for helping us through
+the canal, a little canoe being despatched after us, to help unload us.
+When we reached the canal, narrow, shallow and straight, cut for the
+most part through the solid rock, the moon was shining brightly. Our
+great canoe was soon aground, and whole party, seven in number, climbed
+out into the water to push and pull. We dislodged it soon, but shortly
+came to a complete standstill. Here for the first time, we realized the
+cargo which we carried, which before had been carefully covered so that
+we really were in ignorance of it. Eighty half-dozen cakes of sugar were
+unloaded into the little canoe, which paddled away. We waited, noting
+with regret that the falling water, probably due to tide, was fixing our
+canoe more and more firmly in the mud. Finally, the little canoe came
+back, taking another eighty half-dozen cakes of sugar on board. Our
+canoe having been thus lightened, we made another effort to move it,
+and, after many struggles and groans, finally found ourselves in deeper
+water, embarked, and poled off. Having reached the place upon the bank
+where the canoe loads had been left, we stopped to freight again. To our
+surprise, we found here once more the eight boxes of _chapapote_, which,
+apparently, had been carted across. We were now able to calculate the
+load which our "empty" canoe, hired at thirty pesos, in order to take us
+quickly through to Tampico, was carrying:
+
+  120 dozen cakes of _panela_, of 2 lbs       2,880 lbs.
+  8 boxes _chapapote_, of 125 lbs             1,000 lbs.
+  6 sacks of beans, of 100 lbs                  600 lbs.
+
+            Total                             4,480 lbs.
+
+In other words, we had been crowded and delayed by more than two tons of
+cargo. Perhaps, had we been actually alone in the boat, it might have
+made its journey in the twenty-four hours promised, instead of the sixty
+of accomplishment. It was nine o'clock when we were again aboard, and we
+made the boatman travel all night long. At the stroke of half-past-three
+we heard the bells of Tampico, and drew up along the waterside-landing
+of that city. For two full hours we lay there, listening to the buyers
+bartering with the boatmen for their load of maize, _frijol_ and
+_panela_ until daylight, when we gave orders to unload.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXII
+
+IN MAYA LAND
+
+(1901)
+
+
+We had planned to go from Tampico to Chiapas, and from there to Yucatan,
+where we were to finish our work for the season. We found, however, that
+there was no certainty in regard to a boat for Coatzacoalcos, while the
+Benito Juarez was about to sail for Progreso the next day. Not to lose
+time, we decided to do our Yucatan work first, and to let Chiapas wait
+until later. We were busy that day making arrangements for departure,
+and in the afternoon hired a canoe to take our stuff from the wharf to
+the boat, which was standing out in the river, beyond Do�a Cecilia.
+There was a brisk wind against us, and we almost arrived too late to
+have our luggage taken aboard. The next morning, we took the first train
+to Do�a Cecilia, and were on board the boat at nine o'clock. We had been
+told that the sailing would take place at ten, but, on arrival, found
+that they were waiting for cattle which were being brought across
+country. One hundred and twenty head were to make our chief cargo, and
+they were expected at six a.m. Nothing, however, was to be seen of them
+in any direction. We had taken breakfast, and it was almost twelve
+o'clock before the first signs of the animals were to be seen. Meantime,
+at eleven, a norther appeared, and we were informed that it would be
+impossible to leave short of twenty-four hours. Besides our company,
+there were three first-class passengers--a sort of German-Austrian baron
+and his lady, and a contractor, who was taking a force of hands to
+Yucatan for farm labor. Eighty-three of these hands were our third-class
+passengers; they had been picked up all along the line of the Tampico
+Branch of the Central Railway, and few of them realized the hardships
+and trials which lay before them. We were assured that more than half of
+them would surely die before the end of their first year in Yucatan. As
+we could not leave until the norther passed, it was decided not to take
+the cattle on board until next day. Thus we spent a day as prisoners
+on the boat, standing in the river. In the morning the water was still
+rough and the wind heavy, but at 9:30 the loading of the animals began.
+They were brought out on a barge, about one-half of the whole number to
+a load; tackle was rigged and the creatures were lifted by ropes looped
+around their horns. The first few were lifted singly, but after that,
+two at once. While it sounds brutal, it is really a most convenient
+method, and the animals, though startled, do not seem to be injured in
+the least, nor indulge in much kicking. By 11:40 all were loaded and
+we were ready for our start. We had to wait until the customs-house
+inspector should come on board to discharge us, and this was not done
+until half-past one. We sailed out, between the jetties, at two o'clock,
+and found the Gulf rough, and a high wind, which continued through most
+of our voyage. The smell from the cattle was disagreeable, and between
+it and the roughness, all were seasick before the first afternoon was
+over.
+
+Captain Irvine is the youngest captain of the Ward Line, being but
+twenty-six years of age. He has followed the sea since he was thirteen
+years old. A Nova Scotian by birth, he has sailed this coast for some
+little time, and is a competent official, doing his utmost for the
+pleasure and convenience of his passengers. The journey was uneventful.
+There was some excitement among the third-class passengers, many of
+whom were drunk and quarrelsome. The first evening, two of them were
+fighting, with the result that the head of one was split open and had to
+be dressed by the captain. When we had been some forty-eight or fifty
+hours at sea, we found ourselves off the Campeche banks, in quieter
+water. Those who had suffered from sickness were again quite themselves.
+It was 4:30 Sunday morning, February 3, after we had been almost three
+days and three nights at sea, and four days on the boat, that the
+Progreso light was sighted, and not long after we came to anchor. We
+waited from six o'clock until almost ten for lighters and the doctor.
+After he had made his inspection, we piled off with all our baggage
+onto a little steamer, which charged three dollars, each passenger, for
+taking us to the pier, which was close by, and to which our own boat
+could easily have run. This, however, was but the beginning of Yucatecan
+troubles. When we found ourselves on the wharf, the customs officials
+insisted upon our going to the general office for inspection, on account
+of the character and amount of our luggage. Arrived there, we found that
+we had no clearing papers for our stuff, and forty dollars duty was
+required for material which had already paid duty in entering Mexico,
+and which had only gone from one Mexican port to another, as baggage. In
+vain we argued and attempted to explain matters. The officials advised
+us to bring the American consul and have him straighten matters; but his
+office was shut, as it was Sunday. Meantime, we saw the train, which we
+had expected to take at 11:30, leave for M�rida, and at twelve o'clock
+the customs-house offices were closed, and we were forced to leave the
+business for another day. Fortunately, there are two railroads from
+Progreso to M�rida, and we were able to take an afternoon train over the
+narrow-gauge line for the capital city. The station was an enormous,
+wooden, barn-like structure; the cars were weather-beaten and
+dilapidated to a degree--except the first-class car, which was in fair
+condition. Passengers were gathering, but no particular signs of the
+starting of a train were evident. Boys at the station were selling slabs
+of pudding, squares of sponge cake soaked with red liquor, pieces of
+_papaya_, cups of sweetened boiled rice, and oranges. The oranges were
+unexpectedly high in price, two selling for a _medio_; the seller pares
+off the yellow skins and cuts them squarely in two before selling; the
+buyer eats merely the pulp, throwing the white skin away. As train-time
+neared, interesting incidents occurred. The ticket-agent was drunk and
+picked a quarrel with a decent, harmless-looking indian; the conductor
+dressed in the waiting-room, putting on a clean shirt and taking off his
+old one, at the same time talking to us about our baggage-checks. A fine
+horse, frisky and active, was loaded into the same baggage-freight car
+with our goods. The bells were rung as signals, and the station locked;
+the whole management--ticket-agent, conductor and baggagemen--then got
+upon the train and we were off. At one of the stations the ticket-agent
+took his horse out from the car, and riding off into the country, we saw
+no more of him.
+
+[Illustration: LOADING CATTLE; DO�A CECILIA]
+
+[Illustration: MAYAS, RETURNING FROM WORK; SANTA MARIA]
+
+The country through which we were running was just as I had imagined it.
+Though it was supposed to be the cold season, the day was frightfully
+hot, and everyone was suffering. The country was level and covered with
+a growth of scrub. There was, however, more color in the gray landscape
+than I had expected. Besides the grays of many shades--dusty trees,
+foliage, bark and branches--there were greens and yellows, both of
+foliage and flowers, and here and there, a little red. But everywhere
+there was the flat land, the gray limestone, the low scrub, the dust
+and dryness, and the blazing sun. There were many palm trees--chiefly
+cocoa-nut--on the country-places, and there were fields of hennequ�n,
+though neither so extensive nor well-kept as I had anticipated. It
+resembles the magu�y, though the leaves are not so broad, nor do
+they grow from the ground; the hennequ�n leaves are long, narrow,
+sharp-pointed, and rather thickly set upon a woody stalk that grows
+upright to a height of several feet. The leaves are trimmed off, from
+season to season, leaving the bare stalk, showing the leaf-scar. The
+upper leaves continue to grow. In places we noticed a curious mode of
+protecting trees by rings of limestone rock built around them; many of
+these trees appear to grow from an elevated, circular earth mass. At
+Conkal, the great stone church magnificently represented the olden time,
+but it bore two lightning rods and was accompanied by two wind-mills of
+American manufacture. Everywhere, in fact, the American wind-mill is
+in evidence. One can but wish that the poor users of the old _cenotes_
+might come to life, and, for a little time, enjoy the work of the winds
+in their behalf. Everywhere we saw plenty of Maya indians and heard
+something of the old language. All travellers to Yucatan comment on the
+universal cleanness of the population; notable in the indians, this
+marks equally well the _mestizos_, whites and negroes. They are not
+only clean, but all are well dressed. Men wear low, round-crowned,
+broad-brimmed palm hats; trousers are rarely of the tight-fitting
+Mexican kind; indians who work at heavy labor protect their clean white
+shirts and drawers with a strip of stuff, like ticking, wrapped about
+them. Women wear two white garments, both ample, hanging from the neck,
+bordered with black or colored bands. They generally wear long necklaces
+or rosaries, the beads of which are spaced with gold coins, and a cross
+of gold or a medal of the same material hangs at the bottom. Women of
+middle age are usually stout, and march with quite a stately tread.
+
+M�rida itself is much larger and better built than we had expected. Many
+of the houses, especially on the outskirts, are elliptical in section,
+and have walls of small stones closely set in mud plaster. In the center
+of the town the houses are covered with painted plaster and are in the
+usual Latin-American style. Great numbers of quaint little coaches, with
+a single horse, were waiting at the station. As we walked up to the
+center of the town, we found but few places open, practically nothing
+but barber-shops and drug-stores. Of both of these, however, there were
+a surprising number.
+
+Having been directed to the Hotel Concordia, we were disappointed when
+the old lady in charge stated that she had no rooms, and directed us
+across the way to the Hotel de Mexico. As we had arranged for the
+delivery of our stuff, we did not care to look elsewhere, and therefore
+inspected the rooms in this hotel. To reach them, we went through a
+barber-shop into a narrow _patio_, and, mounting some rickety stairs,
+found our quarters, which were filthy, vile-smelling, hot and uncared
+for. Yet for these choice quarters, with two beds in each of two rooms,
+leaving no space practically between, we were expected to pay four
+dollars. Upon remonstrating with the proprietor at the price demanded,
+he cooly said, "Oh, yes, everything here costs high; but there is money
+to pay it with." This really stated the fact. Conditions in M�rida are
+the most abnormal of any place which I have visited. Owing to the war in
+the Philippines, and interference with the trade in hemp, the fiber
+of the hennequ�n is in great demand, and money is plentiful. At good
+restaurants each plate costs thirty cents, instead of ten or twelve, as
+in the City of Mexico itself. No coach will cross the street for less
+than fifty cents; for a cooling drink, such as in the capital city would
+cost three cents, one here pays twelve. The shortest street-car line
+charges ten cents; and everything else is in proportion. What the
+hotel-keeper said, about there being money to pay these frightful
+prices, was equally true. We paid _cargadors_ four times, draymen three
+times, more than we have ever done in any other part of Mexico. In the
+restaurants we saw _cargadors_ calling for plates at thirty cents,
+boot-blacks eating ices at one _real_, newsboys riding in coaches, and
+other astonishing sights. In the plaza, good music is played on Sunday
+nights, and every one is out in all his finery; fruits, sweetmeats,
+refreshing drinks, are hawked everywhere, and are much indulged in;
+under the corridors are little tables, where ices, iced milk and drinks
+are served. At the hotel we passed a night of horror, suffering from the
+heat, dust, ill-placed lights, mosquitoes and other insects. Leaving my
+companions I went the following morning to Progreso to attend to the
+unlucky baggage. For variety, I took the broad-gauge road, but found
+little difference in the country through which we passed. The number of
+wind-mills was astonishing, and most of them were Chicago aeromotors. At
+one station a great crowd of pure indians got off and on the train. The
+American consul at Progreso is too much interested in archaeology to be
+found at his office, but his Mexican vice-consul was present. To him
+our difficulty was explained, and on his advice we deposited the forty
+dollars demanded for duty, and signed various documents of remonstrance,
+upon which we paid almost four dollars more for stamps. We were then
+permitted to take out enough plates for immediate use, leaving the
+balance in Progreso until we should be ready for our return journey.
+
+Acting on the advice of the vice-consul, we changed quarters in M�rida
+from the Hotel de Mexico, to the Moromuzo, kept by an American who had
+been many years in the country, and where, though we paid even more for
+rooms, we had some comfort. By industrious search, we found a Chinese
+restaurant, where prices were not high and service quite as good as in
+the aristocratic place where we had dined before. The day before we
+called at the palace, hoping to see the governor, though it was Sunday.
+He was out of town, and we were asked to call the following day.
+Accordingly, in the afternoon, after returning from Progreso, I repeated
+my call but was told that the governor had gone out of town again and
+that I should come the following day. The third day, again presenting
+myself at the office, I learned that it was a holiday and that the
+governor would not be at the palace; the secretary recommended that I
+try to see him at his house. To his house I went, and sending in my card
+and my letters from the Federal authorities was surprised, after having
+been kept waiting in the corridor, to be informed that the governor
+would not see me, and that I should call at the palace, the next day, in
+the afternoon, at two o'clock. Sending back a polite message that we had
+waited three whole days to see his excellency, and that our time was
+limited, my surprise was still greater at receiving the tart reply that
+he had stated when he would see me. We spent the balance of day and all
+the morning of the next, looking about the town.
+
+Having failed in my visit to Governor Canton, I took a street-car to
+Itzimna to see the bishop, to ask him for a letter to his clergy. The
+well-known Bishop Ancona had lately died, and the new incumbent was
+a young man from the interior of Mexico, who had been here but a few
+months. He had been ill through the whole period of his residence, and
+seemed frail and weak. He received me in the kindest way, and after
+reading the letters I presented, asked whether I had not been in Puebla
+at a certain time two years before; on my replying in the affirmative,
+he remarked that he had met me at the palace of the bishop of Puebla and
+had then learned of my work and studies. He gave me an excellent letter
+to his clergy, and as I left, with much feeling, he urged me to be
+careful of my health and that of my companions while we were in the
+country. When he came from Puebla, only a few months before, he brought
+three companions with him, all of whom had died of yellow fever. He told
+me that, though this was not the season for that dread disease, cases of
+it had already broken out in the city; at the same time he stated that
+more than eight hundred cases of small-pox were reported in M�rida,
+and that many of them were of the most virulent. Sunday we had walked
+through dust ankle-deep upon the roads; Tuesday and Wednesday it was
+with difficulty that we could cross the streets, which were filled with
+mud, and, part of the time, with muddy water a foot and more in depth.
+This is a frequent occurrence, and foot-passengers who desire to cross
+the street are often forced to hire a coach for that purpose. As one
+walks the street, he runs constant risk of being splashed with mud and
+water from passing vehicles and street-cars. During the four days we
+spent in M�rida we met several persons interested in literary lines, and
+visited a number of institutions, among which the most interesting was
+the Museo Yucateco, of which Se�or Gamboa Guzman is in charge. It is by
+no means what it should be, or what, with but small outlay, it might be.
+But it contains interesting things in archaeology, in local history, and
+in zoology. It is of special interest to Americans because Le Plongeon
+was interested in its foundation and early development.
+
+An old gentleman, clerk in the diocesan offices, advised us to visit
+Tekax and Peto for our study. The governor had set the hour of two for
+our reception. Merely to see when he would come, we seated ourselves
+in the garden of the plaza, so that we could watch the entrance to
+the palace. Two came, but no governor. At 2:30 several gentlemen were
+waiting near the office door. At three no governor had arrived. At five
+minutes past three, we noticed that hum of excitement and expectation
+which usually heralds some great event, and looking down the street, saw
+the governor pompously approaching. As he passed, hats were removed and
+profound salutations given. Waiting until he had entered the office, we
+walked up to the reception room, where we found ten or twelve gentlemen
+waiting audience. The great man himself had disappeared into an office
+which opened onto this reception-room, but the door of which was not
+closed. All waited patiently; from time to time the usher-secretary
+crept noiselessly to the office door and peeked through the key-hole
+to see whether the executive was ready. Finally, at 3:35 the word was
+given, and the privilege of the first audience was granted to myself.
+During these days of waiting--something which has never occurred with
+any of the many governors of states in Mexico upon whom I have called--I
+had expressed my surprise to a gentleman of wealth and prominence in the
+city, at the governor's compelling me to wait for audience. With some
+feeling, this gentleman replied, "But, sir, you are fortunate; you are
+a stranger, and bring letters from cabinet officials; many of the best
+gentlemen in this city have been kept waiting months in order to see
+Governor Canton in regard to business of the highest consequence to
+themselves and to the public." I will do the governor justice by saying
+that he listened with apparent interest to my statement, and that he
+gave orders that the letters which I wished, to local authorities,
+should be prepared without delay. Thanking him, I withdrew, and by five
+o'clock the secretary handed me the desired documents; we had lost four
+days. Early the following morning, as no _cargadors_ were at hand, our
+little company resolved itself into a band of carriers and we took our
+baggage and equipment to the Peto station. The securing of tickets and
+the checking of baggage was quite an undertaking, and if the train had
+started at the time announced, we should have missed it; however, we
+were in good season, and left something less than an hour late. The
+country through which we passed was an improvement upon what we had seen
+before. The trees were greener, and many flowers were in bloom. From the
+train, we saw a group of pyramids at one point, and an isolated pyramid
+at another. Some of the indian towns through which we passed, with
+curious Maya names, were interesting. So, too, were the vendors at
+the station. Hot tamales, "_pura masa_" (pure dough), as Manuel said,
+slippery and soapy in feeling and consistency, done up in banana leaves
+and carefully tied, seemed to be the favorite goods; far better were
+split _tortillas_ with beans inside and cheese outside; beautiful red
+bananas and plump smooth yellow ones were offered in quantity. We lost
+an hour at the station where trains met, reaching Tekax at eleven. We
+walked up to the hot _plaza_, where we found the town offices closed,
+and had difficulty in even leaving our stuff with the police. At a
+restaurant we had a fair breakfast, for which we paid a peso each
+person. As there were no signs of the town officials, we dropped into
+the _curato_ to see the priest, to whom we presented the bishop's
+letter. He was a Spaniard, who had been in this country only a few
+months, and despises it heartily. He was sitting at table with two young
+men, who had accompanied him from Spain, and who love Yucatan no better
+than he. He greeted us most heartily, and was interested in our plan of
+work. He sent at once for the judge of the _registro civil_, who could
+tell us many curious things about the indians, and, as soon as the old
+man came, the good priest ordered chocolate to be served. We chatted for
+some time, when, seeing that the _jefe's_ office was open, I suggested
+that I had better go to present my letters. The _cura_ and the judge at
+once began to abuse that official roundly for his sins of commission,
+and particularly for those of omission, and told me that I should have
+him summoned; that it was much better than to trouble myself by going
+to his office, where I had already been twice in vain; it was but right
+that he should attend to business; he ought to be in his office when
+visitors came to see him. Accordingly a messenger was sent and the
+_jefe_ summoned.
+
+He seemed a rather nice young fellow, and was much impressed by the
+letter from his governor; he expressed himself as ready and anxious to
+serve us in every way, and made arrangements for us to begin work in
+the town-house, where, before dark, we had taken fifteen sets of
+measurements. This was a capital beginning, but the next two days our
+work fell flat. It was necessary to keep constantly at the _jefe_,
+and it soon became plain that he was making no great effort to secure
+subjects for us, on the assumption that we had better wait until Sunday,
+when there would be plenty of people without trouble to the police.
+
+It was useless to urge effort, and we spent the time talking with the
+old judge in regard to the habits and superstitions of the indians and
+in walking with the judge of _primera instancia_ up to the ridge which
+overlooked the town, and which was crowned by a little _hermita_. The
+population of Yucatan is still, for the most part, pure indian of Maya
+blood and speech. The former importance of this people is well known;
+they had made the greatest progress of any North American population,
+and the ruins of their old towns have often been described. They
+built temples and public buildings of stone and with elaborate carved
+decorations; they ornamented walls with stucco, often worked into
+remarkable figures; they cast copper and gold; they hived bees, and used
+both wax and honey in religious ceremonial. They spun and wove cotton,
+which they dyed with brilliant colors; they had a system of writing
+which, while largely pictorial, contained some phonetic elements. They
+are still a vital people, more than holding their own in the present
+population, and forcing their native language upon the white invaders.
+Nominally good Catholics, a great deal of old superstition still
+survives, and they have many interesting practices and beliefs. The cura
+presented me a _ke'esh_ of gold, which he took from the church, where
+it had been left by a worshipper. It is a little votive figure crudely
+made, commonly of silver; the word means "exchange," and such figures
+are given by the indians to their saint or to the Virgin in exchange for
+themselves, after some sickness or danger.
+
+The ridge overlooking the town is of limestone, and is covered with a
+handsome growth of trees and grass. The terrace on which the _hermita_
+is built is flat and cleared; it is reached by a gently graded ascent,
+with a flight of wide and easy steps, now much neglected. The little
+building is dismantled, though there is some talk of reconstructing it.
+Behind it is a well of vile and stagnant water, which is reputed to cure
+disease. From the ridge a pretty view of Tekax is to be had, bedded in
+a green sheet of trees. The town is regularly laid out, and presents
+little of interest, though the two-storied _portales_ and the odd
+three-storied house of Se�or Duarte attract attention. There are also
+many high, square, ventilated shafts, or towers, of distilleries. From
+the terrace where we stood, in the days of the last great insurrection,
+the indians swept down upon the town and are said to have killed 2,500
+of the people, including men, women and children.
+
+The school-teacher of the town is a man of varied attainments, being
+also a photographer, watch-maker, medical-adviser, chemist, and so
+forth. His house is full of scientific instruments--a really good
+camera, a fine aneroid barometer, several thermometers, including
+self-registering maximum and minimum, etc., etc. All seem excellent in
+quality, but I could not learn that he makes any use of them, except
+the camera. The _cura_, and the judge deride his possession of the
+instruments, doubting whether he knows how to use them. They assert that
+he has an apparatus for projection, for which he paid 1,000 pesos, which
+has never yet been unpacked. When we called on him he showed us, by his
+hygrometer, that the air was very humid, though the temperature was at
+86� Fahr., and told us, what probably is true, that in this heavy, hot
+weather, every wound and bruise, however trifling, is likely to become
+serious. In illustration of this fact, the _cura_ mentioned that his
+Spanish carpenter, who merely bruised his leg against the table, has
+suffered frightfully for three months, having now an ugly sore several
+inches across, that makes walking difficult. Great care is necessary
+with any injury that breaks or bruises the skin. We ourselves had
+already experienced the fact that insect-bites became ugly open sores
+that showed no signs of healing; as a fact, none of us succeeded in
+curing such for several weeks after leaving Yucatan. In the afternoon,
+the priest, the judge of _primera instancia_ and myself took a coach
+to ride out to a neighboring _hacienda_, where there was a great
+sugar-mill, Louis accompanying us on horseback. Our road ran alongside
+the ridge and consisted of red limestone-clay. It was fairly good,
+though dry and dusty, and closely bordered with the usual Yucatecan
+scrub. The ridge, along which we were coursing, is the single elevation
+in the peninsula; beginning in northeastern Yucatan, it runs diagonally
+toward the southwest, ending near Campeche. It is generally covered with
+a dense growth of forest, unless artificial clearings have been made.
+Covies of birds, like quail, were seen here and there, along the road,
+and at one point a handsome green snake, a yard or more in length,
+glided across the way. Snakes are said to be common, and among them
+several are venomous--the rattlesnake, the coral-snake, and most dreaded
+of all, a little dark serpent a foot or so in length, with an enormous
+head, whose bite is said to be immediately fatal. There are also many
+tree-snakes, as thick as a man's arm. In the forest, mountain-lions are
+rare, but "tigers" are common. We found Santa Maria to be an extensive
+_hacienda_, and the sugar-mill was a large structure, well supplied with
+modern machinery, and turning out a large amount of product. We saw
+a few of the indian hands, went through the factory, and were shown
+through the owner's house, which has beautiful running water and baths,
+though there is little furniture, and nothing of what we would consider
+decoration. It was after dark before we started to town, and when we got
+there we found two wedding parties waiting for the padre's services.
+
+The promised crowd filled the market Sunday, and our work went finely.
+Between the town officials and the priest, subjects were constantly
+supplied. Among the indians who presented themselves for measurement was
+old Manuel, sacristan from Xaya; he is a _h'men_, and we had hoped that
+he would show us the method of using the _sastun_, or divining crystal.
+He is a full-blood, and neither in face nor manner shows the least
+emotion. Automatic in movement, he is quiet and phlegmatic in manner;
+having assumed the usual indian pose for rest, a squat position in
+which no part of the body except the feet rests upon the ground, or any
+support, he sat quietly, with the movement of scarcely a muscle, for
+hours at a time. He sang for us the invocation to the winds of the four
+quarters, which they use in the ceremony of planting time. Though he is
+frequently employed to say the "milpa mass" and to conjure, he claims
+that he never learned how to use the _sastun_, but told us that another
+_h'men_ in his village knew it well.
+
+One of the _padre's_ companions has been ill ever since he came to
+Yucatan; Sunday he suffered so greatly that a doctor was sent for
+in haste. Nothing was told us as to what his trouble might be, but
+personally I suspected that he had the small-pox. In connection with his
+illness, we learned for the first time that another companion of the
+priest, brought from Spain, died in the room I was occupying, less
+than two weeks before, from yellow fever. We had known that one of his
+companions had died of yellow fever, but supposed it was some months
+earlier. Toward evening the priest was sent for by a neighbor, who
+needed the last service. On the _padre's_ return, we learned that this
+person was believed to be dying from _vomito_. For a moment we were in
+doubt what was best to do, especially as the police had told us that the
+_padre_ had permitted no fumigation of his premises after his comrade's
+death, simply sprinkling holy water about the place. That night the
+young man in the next room suffered greatly, and I could not help but
+wonder what ailed him. However, I decided that what danger there might
+be from the disease we had already risked, and as we expected to remain
+but one or two more days, it seemed hardly worth while to make a change.
+Monday we planned a visit to San Juan and Xaya. The horses had been
+ordered for five o'clock, but mass had been said, chocolate taken, and
+all was ready, long before they appeared. Six, seven, eight all passed,
+and at last, at nine, only three animals appeared. This decided us to
+leave Ramon behind to pack the busts which we had made, while the others
+of the party, with the _padre_, mounted on his own horse, should make
+the journey. A foot _mozo_ carried the camera. The road was of the usual
+kind, and was marked at every quarter league with a little cross of wood
+set into a pile of stones and bearing the words, De Tekax----L. As we
+passed La Trinidad we noticed great tanks of water for irrigation before
+the house, and tall trees with their bare, gray roots running over and
+enveloping the piles of stones on which they had been planted. There
+were no other plantations or villages until just before the ninth
+cross--two and a quarter leagues--we came to the hennequ�n plantation of
+San Juan. The mayor domo was delighted to see the _padre_ and greeted us
+warmly, taking us at once to the great house. We rode between long lines
+of orange trees, loaded with sweet and juicy fruits, and were soon
+sitting in the cool and delightful hallway. It is impossible to say how
+many dozens of those oranges four of us ate, but we were urged to make
+away with all we could, as the daily gathering is something more than
+five thousand. Soon an elaborate breakfast was ready for us, but before
+we ate we took a drink of fresh milk from cocoanuts cut expressly for
+us. We had salmon, eggs, meat-stew, beans, tortillas, and wine. But the
+mayor domo expressed his regret that he did not know we were coming, as
+he would gladly have killed a little pig for us. As dessert a great dish
+of fresh _papaya_ cut up into squares and soaking in its own juice,
+was served. Sitting in the cool corridor, after a good breakfast,
+and looking out over a beautiful country, with promises that all the
+subjects necessary for measurement should be supplied, the idea of
+riding on to Xaya lost attractiveness, and we sent a foot-messenger with
+an order to the town authorities to send the _h'men_ with his _sastuns_
+without delay to see us.
+
+[Illustration: MAYA DANCE; SAN JUAN]
+
+[Illustration: THE H'MEN WITH HIS SASTUN; SAN JUAN]
+
+This was our first opportunity to see the industry of hennequ�n, which
+is the chief product of this _hacienda_. The leaves, after cutting, are
+brought from the field tied up in bundles. These are opened, and the
+leaves are fed into a revolving, endless double chain, which carries
+them on iron arms upward and dumps them onto a table, where three men
+receive them and feed them into the stripper. This consists of a round
+table, into the inner, excavated, circular face of which a round knife
+with dull edge fits closely, though at only one place at once; the
+leaves, fed between the table and knife, are held firmly by them at
+about one-third their length. The projecting two-thirds of the leaves
+hang downward; as the table revolves the leaves thus held are carried to
+a vertical revolving rasp which strips out the flesh, leaving the fibre
+masses hanging. These taken out from between the table and the knife are
+fed again to a second revolving table which holds the masses of fibre,
+leaving the unstripped portion of the leaves exposed to a second rasp,
+which strips it. The hanks of fibre are dropped from the second table
+onto a horizontal wooden bar, where they are rapidly sorted over by
+a man who throws inferior and spotted bunches to one side. The whole
+operation is rapid and beautiful. The fresh fibre is then hung over
+bars, in the southern wind, to dry, after which it is baled in presses
+for shipment.
+
+[Illustration: MAYA HOUSE; SAN JUAN]
+
+We had no trouble in completing the measurement of subjects from the
+indian hands on the place, and made portraits and photographs of native
+dancers. In the afternoon the _h'men_ appeared. He was an extremely
+clean and neat indian of forty-five, and carried at his side a little
+sack, within which, carefully wrapped up in a handkerchief, were his
+_sastuns_. There were five in all; three were small round balls of
+glass, broken from the stoppers of perfume bottles; one was somewhat
+barrel-shaped and of bluish color, while the other, the largest of all,
+was rather long, fancifully formed, and with facets ground out upon it;
+it was yellowish in tint. The two latter were apparently from toilet
+bottles. Telling him that I was anxious to learn about something which
+had been stolen from me, I asked what was necessary in the way of
+preparation. He demanded a candle and _aguardiente_. A great taper of
+yellow wax and a bottle of spirits were supplied. Taking these in his
+hand, he entered the little chapel of the _hacienda_, considering it a
+good place for conjuring. He piously kissed the altar tables and the
+bases of the crucifixes and saints; then picking out a dark corner he
+opened his cloth, took out his glasses, lighted the candle and squatted
+for his operation. Taking one of the crystal balls between his fingers,
+he held it between the flame and his eye and looked intently into it,
+as if seeking something. One after another, the five crystals were
+carefully examined. Finally, laying the last aside, he shook his head.
+He could see nothing, nothing whatever, that interested the gentleman,
+unless indeed sickness; this he pointed out in one of the little balls;
+redness, fever. Being urged to try again, after an interval he got down
+to real business; he took the _aguardiente_, dipped the crystals into
+the liquor, repeating formulas as he did so, and again made the test,
+but with no better result. He could see nothing, absolutely nothing, of
+stolen property; there was nothing in the crystal of interest to the
+gentleman, except fever; that there was, he was certain. This practice
+of divining by means of crystals is a survival from the old pagan days.
+It is probable that there is no indian town of any size in Yucatan where
+some _h'men_ does not make use of it.
+
+We had now finished our work with Maya Indians, except the measurement
+of a few women and the making of a single bust. Upon rather strong
+representation to the _jefe_, a desperate effort was made by the
+policemen and the women were secured. Among the village police-force,
+one man had attracted our particular attention, as representing a
+type of face, quite common among the Mayas, which we have called the
+serpent-face. It is round and broad, with retreating chin and receding
+forehead, and with curious, widely-separated, expressionless eyes. We
+had already measured and photographed the subject, but, because he was
+a policeman and had been useful, we thought we would not subject him to
+the operation of bust-making. Seeing, however, that no other equally
+good subject had presented itself, we decided to make his bust, and told
+him so. To our surprise he refused. The _jefe_, for once, acted promptly
+and without hesitation issued an absolute order that the man's bust
+should be made. The order had no effect. The officials scolded,
+threatened, but Modesto Kan was immovable. The _jefe_ ordered that he
+should be thrown into jail, which order was promptly obeyed, but all to
+no purpose. Our subject said we might whip him, fine him, keep him in
+jail, or kill him, but he would not have his bust made. Hours passed,
+and neither remonstrance nor threats on the part of the _jefe_ or
+ourselves were of the least avail. On my last interview with him, I
+found him lying on a mat with so high a fever that I dared not urge the
+matter further, and we desisted from our efforts to secure him. It was
+the only subject among 3,000 Indians, with whom we failed to carry out
+our work.
+
+A story which the old judge had told us had its influence in my
+permitting this subject to escape. These Mayas often die for spite, or
+because they have made up their mind to do so. Don Manuel at one time
+was summoned by a rich indian with whom he was well acquainted. The man
+was not old, and had land, good houses, many head of cattle, much maize,
+and many fowls. He had three children, and owned the houses near his own
+in which they lived. Everything was prospering with him. Yet the message
+to the judge was that he should come at once to hear this indian's last
+words. With a companion he hastened to the house, and found the man in
+his hammock, dressed in his best clothes, waiting for them. He seemed
+in perfect health. When they accosted him, he told them he was about
+to make his will, and say his last words. They told him that a man in
+health had a perfect right to make his will, but remonstrated with him
+for saying that he was about to speak his last words. He insisted,
+however, that he was about to die. In vain they argued with him; he had
+had his dream. He gave to one child, house, animals, corn, poultry; to
+the second, similar gifts; to the third, the same. Then, having bidden
+them all farewell, he lay down in his hammock, took no food or drink,
+spoke to no one, and in six days was dead. Such cases are not uncommon
+among Maya indians of pure blood.
+
+When we reached home that night we found Ramon unwell. Next day, the
+last of our stay at Tekax he was suffering with fever. He had done
+no work while we were absent the day before, and all the packing and
+doing-up of plaster fell upon the others of the party. As for him, he
+collapsed so completely that it scared me. The ordinary _mestizo_ has
+no power of resistance; no matter how trifling the disease, he suffers
+frightfully and looks for momentary dissolution. It was plain from the
+first moment that Ramon believed that he had the yellow fever; instead
+of trying to keep at work or occupying himself with something which
+would distract his attention, he withdrew into the least-aired corner of
+a hot room and threw himself onto heap of rugs and blankets, in which
+he almost smothered himself, cut off from every breath of fresh air. In
+vain we urged him to exert himself; in the middle of the afternoon we
+took him to the doctor, who assured us that the case was in no way
+serious--at the worst nothing more than a light attack of malaria. In
+the afternoon the _jefe_, neglecting the _padre_, invited the judge of
+_primera instancia_ and myself to accompany him upon a little expedition
+to the neighboring Cave of the Fifth of May. We went in a coach, taking
+Louis, who sat with the driver, as photographer; on the way, we visited
+the town cemetery, which we found a dreary place, with no effort at
+adornment and with an air of general neglect. We passed a number of
+places where they were boiling sugar, and at one we stopped to see the
+mode of dipping calabashes for _dulces_; the fruits are gourd-like, but
+have considerable soft pulp within the thin, hard crust; several holes
+are bored through the external shell and the calabashes, slung by
+strings into groups at the end of a pole, are dipped into the boiling
+sap or syrup; the dipping is done two or even three times, and the
+clusters are removed and allowed to drip and dry between dips. The loose
+flesh is soaked through with the syrup, making a rich, sweet mass, much
+used for desserts. Finally, we turned into another place where sugar was
+being made, and found it the cleanest and neatest of its kind. Here we
+sampled little cakes of clean brown sugar, and were treated with similar
+cakes in which peanuts and squash-pips were embedded, making a delicious
+confection. We were here supplied with a clean, fresh _j�cara_ cup, and,
+walking along the path a few rods, ascended slightly to the mouth of the
+cave, which was far handsomer than we had expected. The limestone of
+Yucatan abounds in caves and subterranean water-courses, especially near
+the base of the ridge already mentioned. The mouth of the cavern was
+fringed with ferns and other vegetation. A flight of rustic steps led
+down to the nearly level floor of red cave-earth. The light from outside
+entered sufficiently to show the greater portion of the cave. The rock
+walls, opposite the opening, were brilliantly green with some minute
+growth; from the floor rose a heap of stone upon the top of which was
+set an _olla_ of large size to catch the water dripping from the roof;
+it was full of most beautifully clear, cool water, which we dipped out
+with our _j�cara_ and drank. At two or three other places on the floor,
+and on projections from the side walls of the cave, were other _ollas_,
+or broken water-troughs of stone, for catching water. Lighting our
+candles we went behind a pendant veil of thick stalagmite. At some spots
+hummocks of snow-white crystalline matter, with a reticulated surface,
+had been deposited by dripping water. A few great masses of stalagmite
+rose from the floor, and there were some columns of the same material.
+On returning from the cavern, nothing would do but we must breakfast
+with the _jefe_, which we did, in state, though at our usual
+boarding-house.
+
+[Illustration: FRESHLY-DIPPED CALABASHES, NEAR TEKAX]
+
+[Illustration: THE COACH THAT CARRIED US TO THE STATION; TEKAX]
+
+The three great industries about Tekax are sugar, hennequ�n, and liquor.
+Father Juan insisted that we should visit one of the local distilleries,
+of which there are fourteen in Tekax. Sugar, ground with water into a
+thick syrup, is drawn off from the mill into great vats, where it is
+permitted to ferment; it is then taken into the still, where it is
+heated and vaporized, and the vapor carried up into high towers
+for condensation. These three-storied, square, wooden towers, with
+ventilator-shafts, are one of the characteristic features of the town.
+
+Padre Juan insisted on supplying a coach for our leaving, in the
+morning. This coach, like those at M�rida, was an extremely small
+affair, for a single horse. Under any circumstances it would scarcely
+carry three persons, without luggage, besides the driver. When it is
+remembered that our party, (consisting of four), the stout _padre_, four
+satchels, measuring-rod, tin pan and blankets, made up the load, it can
+be easily appreciated that the little coach was full. We rode slowly,
+and the poor, creaking vehicle threatened to fall to pieces every
+moment, but we reached the station safely. It was scarcely ten when we
+arrived at M�rida and took our old quarters at the Moromuzo. Our invalid
+at once lay down, and neither threats nor bribes would move him; he
+looked as if he suffered, but he insisted on doing so; going to the
+nearest drug store we described his symptoms to the apothecary, who
+assured us that the case could not be serious, and supplied a remedy
+which was rapid and energetic in its action, though our sick man
+insisted that he was not improved.
+
+We were now but waiting for notice of a vessel sailing from Progreso for
+Coatzacoalcos. Writing, errands, visits, filled up the time, but it was
+dreary waiting. The muddy streets, the heavy, moist, fetid air, the
+outrageous prices, the mosquitoes--all combined to make a disagreeable
+experience. We worried through three days, and still no announcement of
+a boat. In a visit made to the bishop, to tell him of our kind reception
+in Tekax and to make inquiry regarding books printed in the Maya, we
+were again warned by the prelate to be most careful of our health; that
+day, he told us, two of our countrymen, working at the electric-light
+plant, had been stricken with yellow fever and would surely die. The
+second day we were in town the boys met Don Poncio, one of the Spanish
+comrades of the _padre_ at Tekax, who, with another of the household,
+had run away, leaving the good priest alone, as the young fellow who had
+been ill in the room next ours developed a full case of yellow fever the
+day we left, and was dead before night.
+
+One day we went to a _cenote_ for a bath. Passing through a house into a
+rather pretty garden, we came to a stairway, partly natural and partly
+cut in the solid rock, which we descended; we found ourselves in a
+natural cave, with a pool of blue, transparent water. A paved platform
+surrounded one side of the cave, and near its rear edge was a bench of
+masonry, which was continued along the side of the pool by a similar
+bench, cut partly from the living rock. The water was so clear that we
+could see, by the light coming from above, to its very bottom, and
+could detect little black fishes, like bull-heads, against the sand and
+pebbles. The pool was irregular in shape, so that a portion of it was
+out of sight behind the rock-wall, beyond which we found that there was
+a paved floor and benching similar to that in the portion which we had
+entered. We had a delightful and refreshing swim in this underground
+pool, but it was noticeable that, after we came out into the air, there
+was no evaporation of water from the body, and towels were absolutely
+necessary for drying. Such _cenotes_ are found in many parts of Yucatan,
+and form the regular bathing-places, and are often the only natural
+supplies of drinking-water. Of streams above ground there are
+practically none in the whole peninsula.
+
+The last day of our stay in M�rida we saw the _xtoles_. These are bands
+of indian dancers who go from house to house during the carnival season;
+they are dressed in costumes which reproduce some features of the
+ancient indian dress. In the little company which we saw were fifteen
+dancers, including the standard-bearer; all were males, but half of them
+were dressed like females and took the part of such. The male dancers
+wore the usual white _camisa_ and drawers, but these had a red stripe
+down the side of the leg; jingling hawk-bells of tin or brass were
+attached to various parts of their dress; a red belt encircled the
+waist; all wore sandals. The "female" dancers wore white dresses of the
+usual sort, with decorated borders at the arm and neck; also necklaces
+of gold beads and gold chains with pendants. Two of the dancers were
+little children, but the rest appeared to be young men up to about
+thirty-five years of age. All wore crowns upon the head; these
+consisted of a circlet of tin, from which rose two curved strips, which
+intersected over the middle of the head; from the circlet rose four
+feathers--either natural or made of tin. Two of the crowns of special
+size, with real feathers, marked the king and queen. Under the crowns,
+covering the top of the head and hanging down from the shoulders, were
+gay handkerchiefs of red or blue. All the dancers were masked. The men
+wore bandoliers of cotton, worked with bright designs representing
+animals, birds and geometrical forms; the square ends of these were hung
+with marine shells. In their hands, the dancers carried curious rattles
+and fans, which they used in making graceful movements as they danced.
+The handle of the fan consisted of the leg and foot of a turkey, while
+the body was composed of the brilliant and beautifully spotted feathers
+of the ocellated turkey, a bird peculiar to Yucatan and the adjacent
+country. There were two musicians, one with a long _pito_, or fife, and
+the other with a _huehuetl_ or drum, which he struck with his hand.
+Hanging to the side of the drum near the top was a turtle-shell, upon
+which the drummer beat, from time to time, with a deer's horn. A
+standard was carried by the company, which bore a representation of the
+sun, with dancers and a serpent; the pole by which it was carried was
+surmounted with a tin disk representing the sun's face. The music was
+apparently of indian origin and the words of the song were Maya. The
+dancing itself was graceful and accompanied by many curious movements.
+Mr. Thompson, our American consul to Yucatan, believes this dance is
+ancient, and thinks he has found representations of it painted on the
+walls of ancient ruins at Chichen Itza.
+
+[Illustration: THE XTOLES; M�rida]
+
+[Illustration: THE XTOLES; M�rida]
+
+M�rida prides itself upon its carnival, which, it claims, ranks
+third,--Venice and New Orleans alone surpassing it. It was admitted that
+the celebration of this year was far below that of others. The cause of
+this dullness was generally stated to be the great amount of sickness
+prevalent in the city. However that may be, it certainly was a tame
+affair. On the 15th two processions took place, one in the morning,
+the other in the afternoon; these were arranged by two clubs of young
+people, and each desired to surpass the other. We saw that of the
+afternoon, and found it not particularly interesting. A number of
+private carriages, drawn up in line, passed through the streets; within
+were gentlemen, ladies and children, but few of them wore masks, or
+were otherwise notable; besides these, in the procession, were five
+allegorical cars. One represented a gilded boat containing pretty girls;
+it was arranged to seem to rise and fall upon a billowy sea. A second
+float represented the well-known ancient statue, the Chacmool; an
+indian, in the attitude of the figure mentioned, held an _olla_ upon his
+breast, while one or two others stood near him as guards or companions.
+The most attractive float was loaded with the products of Yucatan, and
+a group of figures symbolizing its industries and interests. Upon the
+fourth, a female figure stood erect in a chariot drawn by lions. The
+fifth was comic, and represented marriage in public and private--a
+vulgar couple indulging in affectionate display before a partition,
+and in a conjugal quarrel behind it. These floats were scattered at
+intervals through the procession, which was of no great length.
+
+By this time Ramon had suffered violent agonies, and had become so weak
+that assistance was needed when he walked. The second day in M�rida we
+had sent for a competent physician, who assured us that nothing was the
+matter excepting an unimportant attack of bilious fever, and that with a
+day or two of treatment he should be entirely recovered. On his second
+visit he was much irritated, as the young man had not made the promised
+improvement, and assured us that there was no cause for his collapse.
+During our first visit to M�rida, in hunting through the city for
+Protestants--a practice in which he invariably indulged whenever we
+reached a town of consequence--Ramon had happened on an interesting
+little man who represents the American Bible Society in this district.
+By name Fernandez, this gentleman was born in Argentina, educated in
+Spain, and has served as colporteur in the states of Chiapas, Tabasco
+and Yucatan for upwards of a dozen years. He was stout, active, and
+vivacious; he claimed to have been in every town in Chiapas, and gave
+us much advice regarding our journey to that state; he called upon us
+several times during our stay, and shared the general disgust over our
+sick man, who, he assured us, had nothing serious the matter, and only
+needed to arouse himself to throw off the bilious attack from which he
+suffered. On the streets we met the baron who had been with us on our
+voyage from Tampico. He told us that after one day in M�rida, he and
+his lady decided that they preferred Progreso, and were stopping there,
+going down upon the day-train when they wished to visit M�rida. He also
+warned us that we need never expect to see the forty dollars which we
+had advanced through the vice-consul, as whatever disposition should be
+made of our complaint regarding customs charges by the government, no
+such money was ever known to leave his hands. Following events entirely
+confirmed this gentleman's dire prophecy; neither Mr. Thompson nor Se�or
+Solis have paid the least attention to communications regarding the
+matter sent after our return to our own country. It is little likely
+that the Mexican government refused to refund the payment; but we shall
+probably never know.
+
+The remarks of the baron suggested a new line of action. Why longer
+wait in M�rida for our boat? Progreso is cleaner, cooler, enjoys a sea
+breeze, and gives as good living for less than half the price we were
+paying. For comfort, for the benefit of our sick man, for the advantage
+of our pocket, we would be better off at Progreso than in M�rida. While
+there were cases of small-pox in the little seaport, there were none of
+yellow fever. In every way it looked attractive, and on Monday morning
+we left, and found ourselves, before noon, comfortably located in the
+curious little hotel, La Estrella de Oro, in Progreso. To be sure,
+our rooms were mere stalls, being separated from each other by board
+partitions scarcely eight feet in height, and without ceiling, so that
+it was impossible to escape the conversation in neighboring rooms at
+night. The table, however, was excellent, and the price, compared with
+what we had been paying, economy itself. Having seen my companions
+comfortably located, I returned to M�rida, where there was still some
+business demanding attention. This time I found a room in the Hotel
+Concordia, which was the most comfortable I enjoyed in M�rida, although
+the price of $4 for the mere room was high. The day before, we had seen
+the Battle of Flowers of the carnival. No flowers figured in it; it
+consisted of a long procession of carriages, mostly private and mostly
+good; they were filled with well-dressed young people, of whom few were
+masked; all were supplied with confetti, which was thrown in handfuls
+by those in the carriages upon those in carriages going in the other
+direction, for the procession was double. Usually, girls and ladies
+threw at men and boys, who reciprocated the compliment; the ladies had
+their hair loose and flowing, and wore no hats; so that in a little time
+it was filled with the brilliant bits of paper. Everyone, also, had long
+strips of colored paper, rolled up like ribbons, which were now and then
+launched, either with no direct aim or at some person; as these strips
+unrolled they trailed prettily in the air, and everyone caught at the
+trailing streamers. Crowds of poor children chased along, beside and
+behind the carriages, catching at the showers of bits of paper, and at
+the long streamers, which they kept, or, in turn, hurled at passers. The
+balconies of all the better houses were filled with people, as were the
+seats and raised platform fronting the town-house, and those in
+the balconies and on the seats rained down paper upon those in the
+carriages. Many children in the balconies were masked, and wore
+grotesque costumes, but few grown persons were so decked out. While
+pretty and characteristic, the Battle of Flowers disappointed us,
+lacking the life and "abandon" which one usually associates with
+the idea of carnival. It was all reserved, and respectable, and
+unenthusiastic. The only persons who really seemed to enjoy it were the
+poor children, with their loads of bright paper and long streamers.
+Monday afternoon, the most striking function of the carnival, so far
+seen, took place. This was an enormous procession of vehicles; private
+carriages, with elaborate equipment, were filled with finely-dressed
+gentlemen and ladies; common rented coaches were in line, and some of
+them were loaded to their full capacity with common people--four, five,
+or even six, in one; in one were four brawny, young _cargadors_; in
+another an old grandmother, her two daughters, and some grandchildren,
+pure indians, rode complacently, enjoying the admiration which they knew
+their best clothes must attract; in some of the fine private coaches, no
+one but indian nurses or favored servants rode. Even here, few of the
+parties were really dashing, lively or beautiful. The whole thing was
+constrained, artificial and sedate. An occasional group seemed to really
+enjoy the occasion. One bony horse dragged an ancient buggy or cart,
+which might well be that of some country doctor, and in it was the
+gentleman himself, commonly dressed, but with a whole family of little
+people, who were bubbling over with enjoyment. Another happy party was
+that of a common carter, who had his own dray in the line, with his
+children, neatly but commonly dressed, as its only occupants; in two or
+three carriages were maskers, though none of them appeared funny;
+one drayman's cart had been hired by a crowd of loud and boisterous
+youngsters, who performed all kinds of pranks and bawled nonsensical
+remarks to the crowd.
+
+[Illustration: CARNIVAL AT PROGRESO]
+
+[Illustration: CARNIVAL AT PROGRESO]
+
+My chief errand was to see the leader of the _xtoles_, to purchase from
+him some of the objects which they had used in their dance. Just as I
+was starting, at evening, for the address he had given me, I met Se�or
+Fernandez in the plaza, and he agreed to accompany me to the place. We
+went some little distance on the street-car, and, dismounting at the
+corner of a narrow lane, were about to start through it, when someone
+touched my companion on the arm, and greeted him. He recognized the
+owner of the little shop before which we stood. Heartily invited to
+enter the _tienda_, we did so and stated the object of our quest. The
+shopkeeper at once said that we must have a lantern, as the road was
+dark, and ordered his clerk to accompany us with one, for which we were
+truly thankful. We came, finally, to the house where Don Gregorio,
+the leader of the dancers, lived. Fernandez was friendly and voluble,
+greeting every company of girls and women that we met, or who were at
+the house, as "_lindas_," and passing compliments. He was, however,
+uneasy, continually glancing around and asking repeatedly when Don
+Gregorio would appear. The dancers were still absent, but expected
+every moment; in fact, we could hear their music in the distance. When,
+finally, they did appear, their leader, who was very drunk, insisted
+that he could not treat in the matter until after the next day, which
+would be the culmination of the carnival, and their chief day for
+dancing. The instant that we received this answer, Fernandez seized
+the lantern, which the clerk had left, and, grasping me by the arm, we
+started off at breakneck pace. As we almost rushed down the stony road,
+he looked furtively to right and left, and told me that there were, no
+doubt, persons in the neighborhood who had recognized him, and said
+that, more than once, in this very neighborhood, he had been stoned
+when selling bibles, and that any moment we ran our chances of a night
+attack. Apparently, however, people were too much excited over carnival
+to waste their time in baiting Protestants, and we heard no whizzing
+missiles, and soon, reaching the corner shop, left the lantern, and went
+home. There had been doubt as to whether trains would run the following
+day, Tuesday, on account of carnival. I found, however, that the train
+on which I had counted, leaving at seven in the morning, went as usual,
+though it was the only train of the day for Progreso. My companions
+were delighted to see me, and I found our sick man sure that death was
+imminent; to tell the truth, he was constantly spitting black blood,
+which oozed from his gums, and which gave me more concern than any of
+his previous symptoms. We found the carnival at Progreso more natural
+and unpretentious, but also far more lively and amusing, than anything
+in M�rida. To be sure, some of the performances bordered on the
+indecent, but on the whole, it was jolly, and scarcely gave cause for
+Manuel's pious ejaculation that there were many _abusos_. Groups of men
+and boys went through the streets decked with ribbons and flowers, and
+with their faces painted or daubed; many carried handfuls of flour,
+or of blue paint, which they dashed into the faces or over the clean
+clothes of those they met; bands of maskers danced through the streets;
+companies of almost naked boys, daubed with colors, played _toro_ with
+one who was inside a frame of wood. One man, completely naked, painted
+grotesquely, pranced through the streets on all fours; young fellows,
+dressed in women's clothes, with faces masked or painted, wandered about
+singly, addressing persons on the street in a high falsetto voice with
+all sorts of woeful stories or absurd questions. Very pretty was a
+company of trained dancers,--with a standard, leader, music, and fancy
+costume,--each of whom carried two staves in his hands; these performed
+a variety of graceful movements, and sung a song in Spanish; this was
+interestingly like the song of the _xtoles_, and the movements were
+almost precisely theirs. In the evening, we attended the _baile de los
+mestizos_--dance of the _mestizos_, where the elite of the little city
+was gathered, and the place was crowded. Very little of it was
+enough, for while the music and dancing were all right, the heat, the
+tobacco-smoke, and the perfume, were overpowering.
+
+To our joy, on Wednesday, the "Hidalgo" appeared, bound for
+Coatzacoalcos. All day Thursday we waited for it to unload its cargo,
+and on Friday morning, we loaded into a little sail-boat at the wharf,
+which we hired for a price far below what the regular steamer would
+have charged to take us to our vessel. The luggage had been weighed and
+valued, and an imposing bill of lading, and an official document, had
+been made out, to prevent our paying duty a third time when we should
+reach our port. At 10:30 we were on the "Hidalgo," ready for leaving. It
+is the crankiest steamer on the Ward Line, and dirty in the extreme.
+The table is incomparably bad. The one redeeming feature is that the
+first-class cabins are good, and on the upper deck, where they receive
+abundance of fresh air; there were plenty of seats for everyone to sit
+upon the deck, a thing which was not true of the "Benito Juarez."
+Of other first-class passengers, there were two harmless Yucatecan
+gentlemen--one of whom was seasick all the voyage,--and two Americans,
+brothers, one from St. Louis, Mo., and the other from Springfield, Ill.
+The captain of our vessel was a Norwegian, the first officer was a
+Mexican, the chief engineer an American, the purser a low-German, the
+chief steward an Oaxaca indian, and the cook a Filipino. Never was I so
+glad to reach a resting-place, never so relieved, as when we got our
+baggage and our sick man safely on board. As to the latter, he at once
+lay down, and, practically, was not on his feet during the voyage. We
+had expected to make the run in thirty hours, but were hindered by rough
+weather, catching portions of two northers; the second was so bad that,
+when almost in sight of our destination, we were forced to put to sea
+again, and lost many hours of time and miles of distance. On the morning
+of the third day, however, we had dropped anchor, and on looking from
+the cabins at five, caught sight of Coatzacoalcos; but it was not the
+Coatzacoalcos of 1896. Prodigious changes had taken place. The Pearson
+Company, having taken possession of the railroad, had made great
+improvements; their pretentious general-offices, located at the wharf,
+had recently been completed; the railroad station had been improved;
+the old shack, where we slept in 1896, had been torn down, and a
+construction track occupied its place; on the little rise behind, a
+pretty and large hotel had been erected; on the higher land, to
+the right, a line of well-built houses, making some pretension to
+architectural effect, had been constructed. It was only after landing,
+and walking through the older portions of the town, that any familiar
+scenes were recognized. Though we were ready to land at five, and wished
+to catch the train at seven, we were forced to wait for the official
+inspection, and saw the longed-for train--and there would be no other
+for two days--pull out before our eyes. Finally, at nine o'clock, we
+were permitted to land. To my surprise, my shipping document was called
+for, but, being produced, we were subjected to no difficulty. The
+balance of the day was spent in wandering about the village, meeting
+former acquaintances, attending to odds and ends of shipment, and
+strolling on the familiar beach, which was still covered with scurrying
+crabs and sprinkled with white "sand dollars." During the night, a
+terrific norther blew, and the next day, cold, dull gray, rainy, kept us
+in-doors. By this time, the purser of the "Hidalgo," who had himself had
+yellow fever, and said he was familiar with it, had convinced us that
+Ramon really had had a slight touch of that dread disease, but having
+passed his tenth day of sickness, was destined to recover, and would be
+no serious menace to other people.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXIII
+
+OX-CART EXPERIENCES
+
+(1901)
+
+
+On the following morning, at seven, we took the railroad train, and at
+five at night had reached Tehuantepec, and were pleasantly located in
+our old hotel, the Europa. On February 28, we visited the market, called
+at the house of the _jefe politico_ for a letter to the town authorities
+of Huilotepec, and visited Dr. Castle, whom we found much the same as
+ever. We failed to find the _jefe_ at his office, though we went there
+several times, but found him sitting in a _tienda_ much the worse for
+drinking. He was charmed to see us, embraced us warmly, and told us that
+his thoughts had frequently been with us since our former sojourn in
+his district. New supplies of wine, and, on the appearance of certain
+ladies, of champagne, were ordered in witness of his satisfaction. In
+regard to our desires, he was delighted to learn that Louis was shooting
+birds, declaring that we were just in time; that he had a damnable order
+from Mexico to send on skins of all the birds of his district for the
+National Museum, and that he had not known what to do in the matter;
+we must prepare them; if we did so, willingly, we should be handsomely
+paid; but if not, he would be compelled to force us. The jail was
+ready, and men die easily in Southern Mexico. With this, he made some
+suggestions that it was easy for a person to be officially reported as
+accidentally killed, or dead from _vomito_. He insisted that we should
+not go alone to Huilotepec, but that he himself would accompany us and
+make sure that everything was done according to our wishes. All these
+dire threats and great promises were completely forgotten on the
+following day, when we sallied forth alone.
+
+[Illustration: MANUEL AND AN IGUANA; TEHUANTEPEC]
+
+[Illustration: MARKET WOMEN; SAN BLAS]
+
+In the _jefe's_ office we learned that during the past year not only
+Coatzacoalcos, but Tehuantepec, had suffered frightfully from yellow
+fever. Of course, the disease is no rarity on the Gulf coast, though it
+was never worse than in the last season; but in Tehuantepec, and on the
+Pacific coast, it is a thing so rare as to be almost unknown. So true is
+this, that, when it was first reported from this district, the federal
+government did not believe the story, and sent a commission to
+investigate. We learned that the commission arrived at evening, and,
+finding two persons dead in their black vomit on the street, made no
+further investigation, but started for Mexico on the following train.
+The spread of the disease to the west coast is generally attributed, and
+no doubt correctly, to the railroad. The disease was particularly fatal,
+in both places, to Americans and Englishmen, and it was whispered that
+90 per cent of the employes of the new railroad management succumbed.
+The chief clerk in the _jefe's_ office told us that, while many cases
+occurred here, no pure indians were taken, and that none of the
+_mestizos_ who were affected died--the mortality being confined to the
+foreigners.
+
+Dr. Castle had moved, but his place was as interesting as ever. For
+pets, he had three hairless dogs, a _mapachtl_, two macaws, two parrots,
+and a lot of doves, one of which he had taught tricks. He was much
+interested in cactuses, and had established a garden in which he planned
+to have all the species of the district. We had purchased some iguanas
+in the market, and Louis had been skinning them. The Doctor said that
+there were three species of iguanas in the district, the largest being
+green, changing to orange or gray, and its flesh not being eaten, as it
+is too sweet; the second species is of medium size, and gray or black in
+color; the third is rarer, smaller, and is striped lengthwise; it lives
+among the rocks near the coast. The two last species are both eaten,
+and are often sold in market. Here we learned, by a casual remark which
+Manuel dropped on seeing the ugliest of the hairless dogs, that these
+are believed, not only here, but in Puebla, and no doubt elsewhere
+through the Republic, to cure rheumatism. In order to effect a cure, the
+dog must sleep for three nights with the patient, and the uglier the dog
+the more certain the cure. Through Dr. Castle, we also learned that the
+Zapotec Indians hereabouts, have many songs, of which the _sandunga_ is
+a great favorite. Questioning an indian friend of mine, we afterwards
+learned that there are many of these pieces of music which are held
+to be truly indian. The words are largely Zapotec; Spanish words are
+scattered through the song, and the sentiment is largely borrowed.
+Most of the songs are love-songs, and they abound in metaphorical
+expressions. Our little trip to Huilotepec was for the purpose of
+photographing the curious and interesting _mapa_ belonging to the
+village. We rode out over the hot and dusty river-bed road, arriving at
+noon. Sending for the _agente_ and _secretario_, we ordered breakfast
+and made known our errand. Though it plainly was not to their taste, the
+_mapa_ was brought out for our inspection. It is painted on a piece of
+coarse cotton cloth, of native weaving, in three colors--blue, red and
+black. The places around Huilotepec are indicated by their ancient
+hieroglyphs. Several personages of the ancient time are represented in
+the conventional manner commonly used in Zapotec writings before the
+Conquest. After eating, we placed the _mapa_ against the wall, wrote out
+a description of it, and photographed it. Dismay now filled the soul of
+the _agente_, and the one _principal_ whom he had summoned for advice.
+They talked long and earnestly with me about the _mapa_, and begged me
+to assure the _jefe_ that it was no good; that it was not _autorizado_;
+that it was _mudo_. To quiet their fears, I was compelled to write a
+letter to that effect to be delivered to the _jefe_; if it ever came to
+hand, he certainly found it incomprehensible. Mrs. Seler, in her book,
+describes the trouble that they had in seeing this _mapa_, and the
+interest which their examination of it aroused. Dr. Castle told us
+that, several years ago, he accompanied a Mr. Werner and a priest to
+Huilotepec to see the _mapa_, and, if possible, to secure a picture of
+it. For a long time they were unable to secure a glimpse of the old
+document, and it was only when the priest assured the indians that the
+doctor was an American engineer, who had been commissioned to survey
+the line in dispute between the village and the Juaves, that they were
+allowed to see it. Before permission was then given, a general meeting
+of the _principales_ was held, and none of the guests were permitted to
+touch the document. Mr. Werner made an exposure, which he sent to the
+States for development; it was lost or destroyed. It is thus possible
+that ours is the only picture of it in existence.
+
+We had been told that a coach went regularly from San Geronimo to Tuxtla
+Gutierrez, making the journey in two days. This seemed too good to be
+true, and no one at Tehuantepec knew anything of such an arrangement,
+but we took the train the following morning for San Geronimo, hoping to
+get off without delay. All that the traveller sees upon descending from
+the train is the station, the place of Se�or Espindola, and the little
+Hotel Europa. To our surprise, we found that our baggage had not yet
+come from Coatzacoalcos, although we had seen it loaded on the train
+ourselves. Still worse, we were informed that frequently fifteen days
+were consumed in transportation of freight from that point hither, and
+that we had no right to expect it so promptly. Inquiry regarding the
+coach revealed the fact that no such vehicle existed. Six hard days of
+horseback riding would be necessary for the journey, and, though
+Ramon admitted himself to be much better, he was too weak for such an
+undertaking. This had had its influence in determining us to go by
+coach in the first place. When in doubt as to what we should do, Se�or
+Espindola suggested that the journey could be made by ox-cart in ten or
+eleven days. Though this seemed slow, it was better than to run risks
+with our invalid, and we determined to journey in that fashion as soon
+as our luggage should appear.
+
+The station is situated on a somewhat elevated plain, constantly swept
+by heavy winds. While we were there, this wind was hot, and loaded with
+dust. In the afternoon, we walked through the indian town, which extends
+over a considerable area. The houses are rectangular, with adobe walls,
+mostly whitewashed, and with steep, pitched roofs. We met a funeral
+procession in the road, with the usual band in front. The coffin open,
+so as to show the child, was carried on the shoulders of several men.
+The mother, in contortions of real or simulated grief, was supported by
+two women, and the mourners brought up the rear, wailing now and then.
+Among the mourners was a woman who suffered from black _pinto_, notably
+developed. The principal industry of the town is pottery. The clay,
+which is of a greyish-black color, is stiff and hard, and is first
+broken up with a mallet. When worked into a stiff paste, it is built
+by hand into great _ollas_ and plates, one and a half or two feet in
+diameter. These _ollas_ we saw at many houses, and sometimes they were
+lashed to carts, plainly for bringing water from the stream. A single
+_olla_ thus lashed, practically filled a fair-sized cart.
+
+[Illustration: DRYING POTTERY; SAN GERONIMO]
+
+[Illustration: CART AND OLLA; SAN GERONIMO]
+
+The little hotel at the station is a new venture, and deserves complete
+success. At few places in Mexico have we found meals so good and cheap.
+In the evening, more from curiosity than expectation, we watched the
+train come from the east, and to our surprise and satisfaction, found
+our luggage. We had really made up our minds that we must spend some
+days in waiting; on the whole, the quiet and comfort of the little
+tavern would not have been unpleasant; but we hastened at once to Se�or
+Espindola, and urged him to make instant arrangements for our leaving in
+the morning. To this he replied that no _carretero_ would be likely to
+start on Sunday, and that we would have to wait until the following
+day. Matters turned out better than anticipated, and before nine, the
+following morning, our arrangements had been made. Two _carretas_ were
+hired, at twenty-eight pesos each, to make the journey; our driver
+agreed that, without counting that day, he could get us to Tuxtla in
+eight days; in order to encourage him, we promised to pay five pesos
+extra for each _carreta_, in case we reached the city of Tuxtla on
+Monday the 11th. His name was Eustasio; he was a good-natured little
+Zapotec, from Juchitan originally, but living now at Guvi�o, Union
+Hidalgo. He warned us that, for the first day, we would have to put up
+with some discomfort, but that, upon reaching his home, he would fit us
+out magnificently. He promised to start at four that afternoon, and we
+were ready; of course, he was not, nor was he at five; so we went back
+to the hotel for a last good supper, and finally at 5:50 started. There
+were four teams and carts in the company, loaded with freight for
+Hidalgo. The night was clear, with a fine moon. The road was over heavy
+sand. Sometimes we walked in the moonlight, passing Ixtaltepec at 8:30,
+and reaching Espinal at ten, where we lost three-quarters of an hour in
+loading freight. From there all went well, until a-quarter-of-two in
+the morning, when we were passing through a country covered with scrub
+timber. Here we constantly met many carts heavily loaded; the road was
+narrow, and several times collisions, due to the falling asleep of one
+or other of the _carreteros_, were narrowly escaped. Finally, one really
+did take place, between our second cart and a heavily loaded one going
+in the other direction. The axle of our cart was broken, and the vehicle
+totally disabled. Two hours and a quarter were consumed in making
+repairs and in reloading. Here, for the first time, we were impressed
+with two characteristics in our driver: first, his ability to swear,
+surpassing anything that we had ever heard; second, his astonishing
+skill and ingenuity in repairing any accident or break, which happened
+on the road. Before our journey was over, we learned that both these
+qualities are common to his profession. It was four o'clock in the
+morning before we were again upon our way. All hope of reaching Union
+Hidalgo at the promised hour disappeared. Before sunrise, we had turned
+into the hot, dusty, broad, straight high-road, which, after my journey
+of 1896, I had devoutly hoped never to see again. Just as the sun
+rose, we took quite a walk, killing some parrots, _calandrias_, and
+_chacalaccas_ as we walked. They said that _javali_--peccaries,--were
+common there. The day was blisteringly hot, long before we reached Union
+Hidalgo; hot, hungry and sleepy, we reached our carter's home, a little
+before ten in the morning. The _carreta_ in which we were travelling was
+here far ahead, and after we had rested half-an-hour or more, Manuel,
+hot and perspiring, appeared, and reported that the disabled cart had
+broken down again, and that the other two were delayed by a sick animal.
+All came straggling in later. We had planned to leave here toward
+evening, travelling all Monday night; but hardly had we rested a little,
+and eaten dinner, when Eustasio announced that we should spend the night
+here, and not leave until the following afternoon. He said the animals
+were hot and tired from travelling in the daytime, and that to push on
+would defeat our plans. He swore that, unless God decreed otherwise, we
+should reach Tuxtla Gutierrez by the promised date. There was nothing
+for it but submission, though we would gladly have chosen a more
+interesting town than Union Hidalgo for a stay of almost two days. When
+evening came, I took my bed of poles out into the open air, into the
+space between two houses; Ramon lay down upon a loaded _carreta_, also
+out of doors, while Louis and Manuel took possession of hammocks in one
+of the houses. It was a cloudless night, with brilliant moon. The air
+soon grew cool. After midnight, I was aroused by the most frightful
+yelling, and opening my eyes, I saw a barefooted, bareheaded Indian
+yelling out the most frightful imprecations and oaths. At first I
+thought that he was insulting some one in the house, but both the houses
+were fast closed. Ramon, completely wrapped in his blanket, could
+attract no notice, and I did not believe that I had been observed, nor
+that I was addressed. For quite ten minutes the crazy drunkard stood
+there in the moonlight, bawling out a frightful torrent of abuse,
+invective, and profanity, with an occasional "_Viva Mexico! Muere
+Guatemala_!" patriotically thrown in.
+
+[Illustration: THE DRUNKARD'S EXCHANGE; UNION HIDALGO]
+
+[Illustration: BEFORE REACHING UNION HIDALGO]
+
+At last he disappeared, but for a long time could be heard howling,
+as he went from house to house. Believing that it might be well to be
+prepared for intruders, I arose and pulled a stake from one of the
+carts, and laid it at my side, upon the bed. But I was soon fast asleep
+again. Awaking at five, I found myself so cold, and the dew so heavy,
+that I dressed, and wrapped my blanket around me, and sat up, waiting
+for daylight. At 5:30 our drunken friend passed again, somewhat less
+voluble, but still vociferous. He was absolutely crazed with drink, and
+through the day several times made his appearance, and always with a
+torrent of abuse and profanity which made one's blood run cold. Before
+the day was well begun, a second person, almost as drunk, but far more
+quiet, a nice-looking old man, began making similar visits about the
+village. The two drunkards, differing in age and build, differed also in
+dress, but on the occasion of one of their visits, they were taken with
+the crazy notion of exchanging clothes, and proceeded to undress, making
+the exchange, and re-clothing themselves in garments ridiculously
+non-fitting--all with the utmost gravity and unsteadiness. During
+the day, our _carretas_ were being prepared. Apologizing for the
+inconvenience of the preceding day, Eustasio proposed to fix our cart
+"as fine as a church." He put a decent cover over it, and laid our sacks
+of plaster on the floor. Upon this, he spread a layer of corn-stalks,
+and over them, a new and clean _petate_. To be sure, the space left
+above was low for comfort, and we were horrified when we saw him loading
+up the second one, not only with the balance of our luggage, but high
+with maize, fodder, and great nets of ears of corn, to feed the animals.
+We had supposed that two persons and part of the luggage would go in
+each of the carts, and never thought of carrying food enough to last
+four oxen eight days. Crowding four people into our _carreta_ made it
+impossible to lie down in comfort. Still, such is the custom of the
+country, and we submitted. During the day we heard a woman crying in
+a house. Upon investigating, we found that she was the wife of a
+_carretero_ who had been injured on the road, and for whom a _carreta_
+had been sent. Shortly afterward, they brought the poor fellow into
+town, amid weeping and lamenting. When they took him from the _carreta_
+in which he had been brought, he was supported by two men and helped
+into the house, where he was laid upon a hammock. He groaned with pain,
+and a crowd of curious villagers pressed into the room.
+
+It was easy to locate four broken ribs behind, and he complained of
+great internal bleeding. It seemed that he had started to climb up onto
+his moving cart in the usual way, and the stake which he had seized
+broke, letting him fall to the ground under the wheel of the
+heavily-loaded cart, which passed over his body.
+
+Finally, all was ready, and at about five in the evening we started.
+Packed like sardines in a box, we were most uncomfortable. Personally, I
+did not try to sleep, neither lying down, nor closing my eyes. Shortly
+after leaving town, we crossed a running stream, and from the other side
+went over a piece of corduroy, upon which we jounced and jolted. Soon
+after, we descended into a little gully, from which our team had
+difficulty in drawing us. The baggage-cart had a more serious time; the
+team made several attempts to drag it up the slope, but failed, even
+though our whole company, by pushing and bracing, encouraging and
+howling, aided. There was a real element of danger in such help, the
+slipping animals and the back-sliding cart constantly threatening to
+fall upon the pushers. Finally, the cart was propped upon the slope, and
+its own team removed; our team, which was heavier and stronger, was then
+hitched on, but it was only with a hard tug, and with heavy pushing,
+that success was gained, and the cart reached the summit of the slope.
+We crossed a fine marsh of salt water, quite like the lagoon at San
+Mateo del Mar, and were told that we were not far from the Juave town
+of San Dionisio. From here, the country, was, for a distance, an open
+plain. With the moonlight, the night was almost as bright as day; cold
+winds swept sheets of sand and dust over us. At one o'clock, we happened
+upon a cluster of six or eight carts, drawn up for rest, and the company
+of travellers were warming themselves at little fires, or cooking a late
+supper. We learned that this gypsy-like group was a _compania comica_,
+a comic theatre troupe, who had been playing at Tuxtla, and were now on
+their way to Juchitan. We never before realized that such travelling of
+ox-carts as we were now experiencing was a regular matter, and that the
+carter's trade is a real business. At two o'clock, we stopped to repack
+our loads, but were shortly on the way again. After the sun rose, we
+were in misery; the road was deep with dust, and we were grimy, hot, and
+choking. When the cross that marks the beginning of the land belonging
+to Ixhuatlan was pointed out, we were delighted, but it was still a long
+ride before we crossed the little stream and rode into the village.
+
+Ixhuatlan is like all the Zapotec towns of this district, but less
+clean, on account of its lying in the midst of dust, instead of sand.
+Our carts drew up in a little grove, a regular resting-place for carting
+companies, where more than fifteen were already taking their daytime
+rest. Having ordered breakfast, we hastened to the stream, where all
+enjoyed a bath and cleansing. Coffee, bread, _tortillas_, eggs, and
+brandied peaches, made a good impression, and we ordered our buxom young
+Zapotec cook, who was a hustler, to have an equally good dinner ready at
+2:30. We set this hour, believing that she would be late, but she was
+more than prompt, and called us at two to a chicken dinner. It was
+interesting to watch the _carreteros_ in the grove. The scenes of
+starting and arriving, packing and unpacking, chaffing and quarreling,
+were all interesting. In the lagoons of Vera Cruz, our boatmen applied
+the term _jornada_ to a straight stretch across a lagoon made at one
+poling; here among the _carreteros_, the word _jornada_ means the run
+made from resting-place to resting-place. In neither case is strict
+attention paid to the original meaning of the word, a day's journey.
+Ixhuatlan is a made town; a paternal government, disturbed over the no
+progress of the pure Juaves in their seaside towns, set aside the ground
+on which this town now rests, and moved a village of Juaves to the
+spot. High hopes were expressed for the success of the experiment; now,
+however, the town is not a Juave town. It is true, that a few families
+of that people still remain, but for the most part, the Juaves have
+drifted back to the shore, and resumed their fishing, shrimp-catching
+and salt-making, while the expansive Zapotecs have crowded in, and
+practically make up the population of the place. Between dinner and
+our starting, we wandered about the village, dropping into the various
+houses in search of relics. As elsewhere, we were impressed with the
+independent bearing and freeness of the Zapotec woman. She talks with
+everyone, on any subject, shrewdly. She loves to chaff, and is willing
+to take sarcasm, as freely as she gives it. In one house we had a
+specially interesting time, being shown a lot of things. The woman had
+some broken pottery figures of ancient times, but also produced some
+interesting crude affairs of modern make from Juchitan. These were
+figures of men and women--the latter generally carrying babies in indian
+fashion--of horses and other animals. As works of art, they make no
+pretension, but they are stained with native colors, and are used as
+gifts at New Year's by the common people. Here we saw the making of
+baked _tortillas_, and sampled some hot from the oven. Such _tortillas_
+are called _tortillas del horno_--oven _tortillas_. Flat _tortillas_,
+about the size of a fruit-plate, are fashioned in the usual way; a great
+_olla_ is sunk in the ground until its mouth is level with the surface.
+This is kept covered by a _comal_, or a smaller _olla_, and a good hot
+fire of coals is kept burning within. When the _tortillas_ have been
+shaped, they are stuck on the hot _olla_, being pressed against the
+sides, to which they adhere, and are left to bake. In baking, the edges
+curl up so that the cake, instead of being flat, is saucer-shaped. They
+are crisp and good. Leaving at four, we continued on the hot, deep,
+dusty road, but saw interesting plants and animals along the way.
+There were fine displays of the parasitic fig, from examples where the
+parasite was just beginning to embrace its victim, through cases where
+it had surrounded the tree with a fine network of its own material, to
+those where the original tree-trunk was entirely imbedded in the great
+continuous gray investing trunk of the parasite, now larger than its
+host. Some trees bore bunches of pale-purple flowers of tubular form,
+which fell easily from the calyx, and dotted the ground along the
+roadside. Other trees appeared as if covered with veils of little
+purplish-red flowers hung over them. Others were a mass of golden bloom,
+the flowers being about the size of cherry blossoms. A few trees, yet
+leafless, showed large, brilliant white flowers at the tips of rather
+slender branches. At Ixhuatlan, we saw the first monkey's comb of the
+trip. This orange-yellow flower, growing in clusters so curiously shaped
+as to suggest the name, is among the most characteristic, from this
+point on through Chiapas into Guatemala. There were but few birds, but
+among them were macaws and toucans. Eustasio said that in the season,
+when certain berry-bearing trees are in full fruit, the latter may be
+seen by hundreds.
+
+When night had really fallen, I unwisely sat in front with the driver,
+to prevent his sleeping, and to keep the animals moving. Both drivers
+had a way of dozing off, utterly regardless of the movements of the
+animals or the dangers of the road. Carts going in opposite directions
+must often depend absolutely upon the oxen for their chance of escaping
+collisions or being thrown over precipices. Frequently the animals
+themselves stop, and the whole company is at a standstill until the
+driver wakes up. In this _jornada_, we had planned to reach La Frontera,
+the border of the state of Chiapas, at which place we had been promised
+we should arrive at 8:30 in the morning. Everything had gone well, and
+we were just about to reach the place, where it was planned to repack
+for the last time; it was just daylight, and Eustasio was congratulating
+us upon our prompt arrival; we drove to the brink of a dry stream, on
+the other side of which was our resting-place; just at that instant,
+we heard the other driver cry out; we stopped, and found that the
+baggage-cart was overturned. This dashed all hopes. There was
+unhitching, unloading, the making of a new axle, and reloading. It was
+plain that we could not reach La Frontera. While the men were putting
+things to rights, we strolled up the dry stream-bed to a shanty, where
+Eustasio told us we could breakfast. There was a well there, with fresh
+water, and the shanty, for the refreshment of travellers, consisted of
+nothing but a little shelter of poles. Here, however, we found baked
+_tortillas, atole_, and hard meat; the breakfast for four persons, cost
+twenty-five centavos, equal to ten cents American money. Through the
+day, birds were hunted and skinned, reading and writing carried on,
+until at half-past-three in the afternoon we were again ready for
+movement. The road was now sandy, and not dusty, the sand being produced
+by the decomposition of crystalline rocks. Mounting to a high _llano_,
+we shot a pair of curious birds, which looked like water-birds, but were
+living in a dry place and were able to run with great speed. They were
+of the size of a hen, and had a long beak, long legs and four flat
+though not webbed toes. At the end of this high _llano_, we passed the
+Hacienda of Agua Blanca, a property belonging to the _jefe_ of Juchitan.
+From here, we descended rapidly over a poor road, coming out at nine
+onto the straight road from Tapanatepec, at this point four leagues
+behind us. From here on, the whole road was familiar to me. La Frontera
+was just ahead, and, arriving there at 10 o'clock, we spent an hour.
+Before us rose a massive mountain, the ascent of which seemed appalling.
+We could see a white line of road zigzagging up its side, and well
+remembered Governor Leon's pride in having constructed a cart-road
+against great natural difficulties. Thirty or forty ox-teams had
+gathered here, either ready to make the ascent, or resting, after having
+come down the mountain. Having gotten breath and courage, we started at
+about eleven. The road had suffered during the five years since I last
+passed over it, but was still an excellent work of engineering. As we
+mounted, zigzagging constantly, the magnificent view over the valley
+widened; each new turn increased its beauty. My companions were asleep,
+and had had so little rest recently, that I hated to disturb them for
+the view. When, however, we were two-thirds up the slope, they awakened,
+and were as delighted as myself. We all got out, and walked for a
+considerable distance. An astonishing number of little streams and pools
+of fresh water burst forth from the rocks, and cut across the road or
+flowed along its sides. Finally, we reached the summit, and began the
+descent. This had made no impression on me when I went over it on
+horseback, but travelling in an ox-cart was a different matter, and I
+shall never again forget it. It was less abrupt than the ascent--less of
+vertical zigzag, and more of long steady windings. It also was excavated
+in the solid rock. It was badly neglected, and the cart jolted, and
+threatened every instant to upset us, or leap into the gulf. Coming
+out into a more level district, we passed Paraje and Dolores, reaching
+Carizal at five, where we stopped for the day. This is a regular resting
+place for _carreteros_, and there were plenty of carts there for the
+day.
+
+As soon as the oxen were unyoked, I turned out my companions and lay
+down in the cart, trying to get an hour's sleep before the sun should
+rise, as I had not closed my eyes since leaving Union Hidalgo two days
+before. I was asleep at once, but in less than an hour was awakened
+by the assaults of swarms of minute black-flies, whose stings were
+dreadful. The rest of the company suffered in the same way, so we all
+got up and went to work. A group of _carreteros_ breakfasting, invited
+me to eat with them--hard _tortillas, atole_ and salted meat, formed a
+much better breakfast than we got, a little later, at the house upon the
+hill where travellers eat their meals. At this house they had a little
+parrot which was very tame, and also a _chacalacca_, which had been
+hatched by a domestic hen from a captured egg. This bird is more slender
+and graceful than a hen, but our landlord informed us that its eggs are
+much larger than those of the common fowl, and much used for food. Both
+this bird and the little parrot regularly fly off with flocks of their
+wild fellows, but always come back afterward to the house. This was a
+most interesting example of an intermediate stage between true wildness
+and domestication. There was little doing throughout the day. Heat,
+black-flies, and sunlight all made it impossible to sleep; but we took a
+bath in the running brook, and skinned some birds, and tasted _posole_
+for the first time. _Posole_ is a mixture of pounded or ground corn and
+sugar, of a yellow or brownish color, much like grape-nuts. It may be
+eaten dry, but is much more commonly mixed with water. The indian dips
+up a _j�cara_ full of clear spring water, and then, taking a handful of
+_posole_ from his pouch, kneads it up until a rather thick, light-yellow
+liquid results, which is drunk, and is refreshing and satisfying.
+
+Almost all the _carreteros_ at this camp were Juchitecos. They were
+great, strong fellows, and almost all of them wore the old-fashioned
+indian breech-clout of red cotton under their drawers or trousers.
+When they were working at their carts, greasing the wheels, or making
+repairs, they were apt to lay by all their clothing but this simple
+piece of cloth, and their dark-brown bodies, finely muscled, hard and
+tough, presented handsome pictures. The little fellows who accompanied
+them, up to the age of twelve, usually ran about with no article of
+clothing save their little breech-clouts and white cotton shirts. In the
+early afternoon, serious work began, and everywhere we saw these men
+patching coverings, greasing wheels, readjusting cargoes, feeding and
+watering their animals, harnessing, and making other preparations for
+leaving. During the idle portion of the day, dice were in evidence,
+and Eustasio was fascinated with the game. The stakes, of course, were
+small, but he kept at it persistently until he had lost five pesos,
+when, with forcible words, he gave up. I am sure the dice were loaded,
+but I am equally sure, from all I know of Eustasio, that the next time
+he makes that journey, he will have some loaded dice himself. Setting
+out at 3:30, we were at the head of a long line of cars, and were soon
+making another steady zigzag to ever greater heights than those before
+climbed. According to the official _itinerario_, the distance from
+Dolores to San Miguel is five leagues; we had left Dolores a league
+behind in arriving at Carizal, and we naturally assumed that four
+leagues would bring us to San Miguel. Eustasio, however, who never
+under-estimated, claimed that it would take constant travelling until
+eight in the morning to reach Los Pinos, which is still this side of San
+Miguel. This is a fair example of the inaccuracy of figures published by
+the government. As I looked behind at the long line of carts, some of
+which were empty, and able to journey at good speed, the desire took
+possession of me to hire one, at least for a short distance, in the hope
+of getting a little sleep. Looking over the line, to make my choice, I
+had just selected one, and was about to broach my plan, when its driver
+ran the vehicle into the branches of a tree, which projected over
+the road, and tore away his awning. The idea was unaffected by this
+accident, however, and picking out a cart, which had a thick layer of
+corn-husks piled in it, promising a comfortable bed, I arranged my
+bargain with the owner, and deserted my party, betaking myself to my
+private car. Having no load, we pushed ahead and, stretching myself at
+full length upon the heap of corn-husks, I was soon asleep. It was my
+purpose to disembark at Los Pinos, but we had passed that place long
+before I awoke, and were in sight of San Miguel when I opened my
+eyes. It was too early for breakfast, so I concluded to ride along to
+Macuilapa, where my carter turned off into another road. It was just
+eight when we arrived, and I thought of my companions as probably just
+reaching Los Pinos. Starting from there at three in the afternoon, they
+should overtake me at seven. So I took possession of the great country
+house, sitting in the corridor all day long. The house is a long, large,
+single-storied building, with heavy tiled-roof; the store-houses, sheds
+and other out-houses, with the adobe huts belonging to the workmen,
+surround a somewhat regular area. The view, however, in front of the
+house is uninterrupted, and looks off into a narrow valley, bounded
+prettily by hills. The house has a wide brick-paved corridor. Near
+it was an interesting ancient stone carving. The rock was coarsely
+crystalline, and gray, or olive-gray in color. It had been battered into
+the bold, simple outline of a frog, crouched for leaping; the head had
+an almost human face, with a single central tooth projecting from the
+lower jaw. The work was in low relief, and looked as if the ancient
+workman had taken a natural boulder, and beaten with his hammer-stone
+only sufficiently to bring out the details. The stone measured perhaps
+four feet in length, three feet in breadth, and two feet in thickness.
+It was found in the mountains near, and, from the marks upon it, seems
+to have been embedded in the soil half way up the legs. Probably, when
+first made, it was placed so that the feet were even with the ground
+surface, but the accumulation of vegetable soil since has been
+considerable. The Hacienda of Macuilapa manufactures sugar and raises
+indigo, quantities of the seed of which were being cleaned when I was
+there. The owner of the place is a man of means, but the meals served
+were of a mean and frugal kind. Everyone made dire prophecies about the
+time of possible arrival of my companions, and the period necessary
+for our further journey to Tuxtla Gutierrez. I had not expected my
+companions before seven, and after these dismal forebodings, gave up
+that expectation. To my surprise, they appeared, in good health and
+spirits, at five o'clock, though with exciting tales of peril and
+suffering. After a meal together, we again mounted in the old fashion,
+and were on our way. The air was fresh and cool, and at 9:30 the moon
+rose, giving perfect light. The road was high and sandy, with occasional
+small ascents and descents. At eleven we stopped to rest, I agreeing
+to wake them all at midnight; at one o'clock I was awakened by our
+_carretero_ raising the tongue of the wagon! We passed La Razon at
+three. As one of the oxen, which had been somewhat lame, was now in bad
+condition, we all dismounted, half-a-league before we reached Zapote,
+and walked the rest of the way. The Hacienda of Zapote is really almost
+a town. There are two _fincas_, belonging to two brothers. Their fine
+large houses, the out-buildings, and the clusters of adobe huts for the
+workmen, make an imposing appearance. We stopped at the first group of
+buildings, which stands a little lower than the other. Arriving at six,
+we spent the whole day at this place; the meals at the great house were
+excellent and cheap. In the afternoon we heard marimba-playing; the
+instrument was called _la golondrina_ and cost the owner forty-three
+pesos.
+
+[Illustration: A DAY REST; THE CARIZAL]
+
+[Illustration: MARIMBA-PLAYING; HACIENDA DE ZAPOTE]
+
+The players were carefully trained, being four brothers. The youngest of
+them was not more than fourteen years old, but he put much expression
+and spirit into his playing. It was the first time that any of the
+party, but myself, had heard this instrument, and all were delighted
+at its brilliant, quick, and pleasing music. We left at 3:45 in the
+afternoon, but our ailing animal was worse than ever, and Eustasio ran
+ahead, trying to secure others at different ranches. He had had no
+success when, after a rough ride of several hours, we drew up at
+Jiquipilas, where we waited until the morning. We planned to secure new
+animals, to leave at dawn, and to reach Tuxtla after a twenty-four hour
+ride. We laid down and slept, waking at five, but finding no sign of
+animals. We breakfasted at seven, and a little later the new oxen
+appeared. There were two yokes of rather light animals. Leaving our sick
+beast, and driving the other three along with us, the new animals were
+put to the loads, and at eight o'clock we started. I failed to recognize
+Rancho Disenga�o, but having passed it, we found ourselves at the bottom
+of the much-dreaded, last important climb of the journey. The little
+team dragging the passenger cart was inefficient and unruly; tiring
+of them, I dismounted and went ahead on foot. For a time I drove the
+unyoked cattle, but a stubborn one wandering into the brush, I gave up
+the job, and left poor Louis, who had just overtaken me, to chase him.
+He had hard work, through tangled brush, here and there, up and down,
+until at last the animal was once more upon the road. The boy was hot,
+tired, and loaded with _pinolillos_. These insects had been in evidence
+for a long time back. They are exceedingly small ticks, which fix their
+claws firmly in the flesh, and cause intolerable itching. Keeping in the
+road, the traveller is little likely to be troubled by them; but walking
+through grass, or among leafy plants, is dangerous. Having climbed a
+portion of our great ascent, we found ourselves at Agua Bendita. It was
+not as beautiful as on the occasion of my other visit; the projecting
+ledge of rock had little water dripping, and in the round catch-basins,
+which formerly were filled with fresh, clear water, there was scarcely
+any; on account of the unusual dryness, the ferns were wilted, and there
+was little of that beauty and freshness which so delighted me before.
+Eustasio said that he had never seen the spot so dry in all his many
+journeys. Nor were there orchids blooming on the great tree near; nor
+any of the little toucans which had been so attractive in 1896. As we
+stood, seeking for these well-remembered things, we heard curious cries
+rising from the valley. At first, I thought it was indians wailing for
+the dead; then, that it was a band of pilgrims singing. But it turned
+out to be a company of cowboys, bringing cattle up for shipment to
+Tabasco. Some rode ahead, and, with loud but not unmusical cries,
+invited and urged the animals and their drivers to follow. The beasts
+were divided into three bands, thirty or forty in a band, each of which
+had its mounted drivers. The animals were lively, and we were warned
+that they were _muy bravo_. Manuel had taken the task of driving our
+loose cattle, and was fearful that he would be overtaken, asserting that
+the cowboys had said that he must keep on, as they could not pass him
+with their animals. When he came up to where we were, we put a quick
+end to his folly, driving our three oxen to the outer edge of the road,
+where Louis and he stood guard over them, while I crept up on the cliff
+to avoid scaring the animals that were coming. It took much driving,
+urging, and coaxing on the part of the cowboys to get the first two or
+three to pass us, but after they had led the way, the others followed
+with a rush.
+
+[Illustration: AGUA BENDITA]
+
+[Illustration: MOVING THE GREAT STONE; AGUA BENDITA]
+
+Presently our passenger-cart came along, with both teams of oxen hitched
+to it; the new animals had proved too light to drag their proper loads,
+so the freight-cart had been left behind, and the full force employed in
+dragging the first cart up the hill. Just beyond this spot, we found a
+gang of indians, under a superintendent, prying off an immense rock mass
+that had fallen from the cliff above onto the road, with the intention
+of dumping it over the wall into the abyss. It would have been a sight
+to have seen it plunge, but we had no time to wait, so simply stopped
+a few minutes to see the method of moving the immense mass with pole
+pries. Our cart had gone ahead, so we finished the ascent on foot, and
+having gained the summit, walked a short distance on the high plateau to
+Petapa, where the cart and _carretero_, Manuel and Ramon, were waiting.
+Before we arrived, we met our men going back with the four oxen for
+the freight-cart. We had supper at the ranch, and waited, until at six
+o'clock everything was ready. Here we sent back the two yokes of animals
+which we had brought from Jiquipilas, and secured a fine, strong beast
+to make up our number, and started. We did not stop to grease the
+wheels, for lack of time. It was dark, and the first part of the journey
+was uncertain and difficult; coming out on to the Llano Grande, we found
+things easy, though here and there were stony places, where we jolted
+fearfully. At 10:30, we had passed La Cienega, and our ungreased wheels
+were not only an annoyance, but, Eustasio suggested, a source of danger,
+as they might take fire. So, at 11:30, we stopped to grease them. As the
+axles and wheels were then too hot for grease to be safely applied, we
+lay down while they should cool. Probably in less than five minutes, we
+were all asleep, and no one moved until, waking with a start and looking
+at my watch, I found it two in the morning. We hastily applied grease,
+without removing the wheels, and hurried onward, passing Sabino Perez,
+Yerba Santa, and Sabinal. Here, the errors in our _itinerario_, and in
+our driver's guessing at distances, were curiously emphasized. We had a
+rather heavy descent, for some distance, over a limestone hill called
+Santo Domingo. Nowhere do I know of any road which, under the best
+of circumstances, seems as long as the last stretch before Tuxtla
+Gutierrez. This we had noticed on our earlier journey, when we were
+mounted on horseback. Present conditions were not likely to diminish the
+impression. At last, at 11:30 in the morning of March 12, we reached the
+capital city of the State of Chiapas, and were taken by our _carretero_
+to the little old Hotel Mexico, kept by Paco, where we met a hearty
+welcome and, for several days, made up for the hardships of our journey
+in the way of eating.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXIV
+
+AT TUXTLA GUTIERREZ
+
+(1901)
+
+
+We knew that Governor Pimentel was not at home, having met him in
+Coalzacoalcos, where we had presented our official letters, and had
+received from him a communication to his Lieutenant-Governor, Lopez.
+Having spent the afternoon in settling and cleaning, I called in the
+evening upon Governor Lopez and explained my needs. After chatting a
+little time together, he inquired whether I had not made the steamboat
+journey from Coalzacoalcos to Vera Cruz in March, 1896, and, upon my
+answering in the affirmative, told me that we had been fellow-travellers
+on that occasion. He promised that there should be no delay, and made
+an appointment with me for the morning. I then called on Don Conrado
+Palacios, who lived directly opposite our little tavern, and who claimed
+that he recognized me the moment I dismounted from our cart this
+morning. He is still photographer, but for three years of the time since
+last we met has been living in the State of Vera Cruz, and but lately
+returned to Tuxtla. In the morning, Governor Lopez supplied the letters
+for my further journey, and summoned the _jefe politico_ and the
+_presidente_ of the city and gave them personal orders that they were to
+assist, in every way, my work at Tuxtla, among the Zoques. The _jefe_
+himself took charge of my arrangements, put his office at my disposition
+for a workshop, and the work began at once. Contrary to my usual
+experience, we had less difficulty in securing female subjects here
+than male. The male indians of Tuxtla are, in large part, employed in
+contract labor on _fincas_ at a distance from the town. According to
+their contract, they are not subject to the order of local authorities,
+and may not be summoned without permission of their employers, or a
+pecuniary settlement with them. The first day, more than half the women
+were measured, and the second day, the rest. As is well known the women
+of Tehuantepec are famous for their beauty. It is not so well known that
+rivalry exists between them and the women of Tuxtla in this matter. This
+rivalry had been called to our attention on our preceding visit, and we
+found that it had in no wise abated. Personally, we saw no comparison
+between the two sets of women, the Tehuantepecanas being far superior.
+Eustasio, however, ungallantly and unpatriotically declared that he
+thought the women of Tuxtla the handsomer; however, we suspect that
+Eustasio would find the women of any town he might be in, the champions
+in beauty for the time being. Their dress is picturesque. The _enagua_
+is made of two strips of dark blue cloth, sewed together, side by side,
+with a fancy stitching of colored silks. The free borders are also
+decorated with similar stitching, and the ends of the strip, which is
+usually more than two yards in length, sewn together with similarly
+decorative needlework. In fastening this garment about the body, no belt
+is used. The open bag is gathered in about the waist, the surplus is
+folded into pleats in front and the overlap, at the upper edge, is so
+tucked in as to hold the garment tightly in place, and at the same time
+form a pouch, or pocket, in which small articles are carried. The little
+_huip�l_, worn upon the upper body, is of thin, white cotton cloth,
+native-woven, but a neat and pretty stuff; there are no sleeves, and the
+neck-opening and arm-slits are bordered with pleated strips of cotton,
+worked with black embroidery. A larger _huip�l_ is regularly carried,
+but we never saw it in use; practically, it never is worn. If put in
+place, it would form a garment for the body, with the neck-opening and
+sleeves bordered with lace, and the lower edge reaching to the knees.
+The woman carries this garment with her, folding it into a sort of pad,
+which she places on her head, letting it hang down upon the back and
+shoulders. Upon this cushion, the woman carries a great bowl, made from
+the rind of a sort of squash or pumpkin, in which she brings her stuff
+to market. These vessels are a specialty of the neighborhood, being made
+at Chiapa; they are richly decorated with a lacquer finish, of bright
+color. In carrying a baby, the child is placed against one side of the
+body, with its little legs astride, one in front and one behind, and
+then lashed in place by a strip of cloth, which is knotted over the
+woman's opposite shoulder. Almost every Zoque woman is asymmetrical,
+from this mode of carrying babies, one shoulder being much higher than
+the other. Among the subjects measured, was a woman notable in several
+ways. She was the fattest indian woman we had ever seen; she was the
+richest of her kind, and not only were her garments beautiful in work
+and decoration, but she was gorgeous with necklaces, bristling with gold
+coins and crosses; more than this, she was a capital case of purple
+_pinta_. The disease is common among the indians of the town, and, while
+both the red and white forms are found, purple seems to be the common
+type. Sometimes the face looks as if powder-burned, the purple blotch
+appearing as if in scattered specks; at other times, the purple spots
+are continuous, and the skin seems raised and pitted.
+
+[Illustration: ZOQUE MODE OF CARRYING BABIES; TUXTLA GUTIERREZ]
+
+[Illustration: FAT, RICH, AND PIXTA; TUXTLA GUTIERREZ]
+
+It appears that the adjusting of family quarrels and disputes between
+friends are among the duties of the _jefe_. In the office that day, a
+quarrel was settled involving two young men related by blood and by
+comradeship; a woman and a man of middle age were also interested;
+the quarrel had been a serious one, involving assaults, ambushes, and
+shootings. The _jefe_ first summoned each of the four persons singly,
+going over the whole matter with each one; the more intelligent of the
+two combatants was first to be reasoned with; then the woman was called
+in and he and she were left together in the office. For a long time,
+they would not even speak to each other. Finding this condition, the
+_jefe_ reasoned with them, and warned them that they must come to some
+conclusion, after which he left them to themselves again. At first
+they would not speak, but finally held a conversation, and came to an
+understanding; the old man was then called in and made to talk the
+matter over with the two, who had already been in conference. Lastly,
+the more belligerent youth was summoned, the _jefe_ remaining in the
+room with the whole party. At first he would not speak, but finally his
+pride and anger gave way, and he shook hands with his cousin, and the
+whole party left, after promising the _jefe_ that the past should be
+forgotten.
+
+The first afternoon that we were working, a curious couple came to the
+_jefe's_ office. The woman was not unattractive, though rather bold
+and hard in bearing. She was dark, pretentiously made-up, and rather
+elegantly dressed. The gentleman was a quiet, handsome fellow, dressed
+in sober black. When they sailed in, I supposed they were the _jefe's_
+personal friends. Sitting down, they showed interest in my work, and the
+lady in a rather strident voice, but with much composure, addressed
+us in English. Her knowledge of our language, however, proved to be
+extremely limited, being confined to such expressions as "How are you,
+sir?" "I am very well," "Yes, sir," "No, sir," and "I know New York."
+She was a mystery to the town, where she was commonly called "the
+Turkish lady."
+
+[Illustration: ZOQUE WOMEN; TUXTLA GUTIERREZ]
+
+[Illustration: THE INDIAN ALCALDES; TUXTLA GUTIERREZ]
+
+This nickname, her limited knowledge of English, and her boasted
+acquaintance with New York, aroused the question, in my mind, whether
+she might not have been an oriental dancer. She, herself, told us that
+she was born in South America, and referred to Caracas, as if it were a
+place with which she was familiar. The _jefe_ was extremely polite in
+his dealings with these people, and, as soon as they were seated, rang
+his bell for glasses, and we all drank the lady's health in cognac. The
+fact was, that these two persons were prisoners; they had come here
+within a few days, and had the city for a prison; as they had made no
+effort to leave the town, their movements were not interfered with, but
+if they had attempted to step outside the city limits, they would have
+been shot without a word of warning. The _jefe_ himself did not know who
+they were, nor what crime they had committed; nor did he know how long
+they would remain in his custody; they had come a weary journey, as he
+put it, "along the Cordillera;" they had been passed from hand to hand,
+from one _jefe_ to another; when the order came, he was to start them on
+their journey to the _jefe_ of the next district. Of the many stories
+told regarding them, a few will serve as samples. She was said to be the
+wife of a wealthy merchant of Campeche, from whom she had eloped with
+her companion, carrying away $150,000. According to another view, they
+were connected with an important band of forgers and robbers, who had
+been carrying on extensive operations. The most minutely detailed story,
+however, was that she had been the mistress and favorite of Francisco
+Canton, Governor of the State of Yucatan; that, pleased with a younger
+and handsomer man, she had stolen $7,000 from His Excellency, and
+attempted an elopement; that, captured, they were being sent as
+prisoners, nominally to Mexico. Whether any of these stories had a basis
+of fact, we cannot say, but from remarks the prisoners themselves made
+to us, we feel sure that the centre of their trouble was M�rida, and
+that, in some way, they had offended the pompous governor. At all
+events, it is likely that, long before these words are written, both
+have met their death upon the road. It is a common thing for prisoners,
+passing along the Cordillera, to be shot "while attempting to escape
+from their guard."
+
+The _jefe politico_ of this district is a man of education, and
+professional ability; he is a physician, trained in the City of Mexico;
+he is ingenious in mechanics, and has devised a number of instruments
+and inventions of a scientific kind. He had been but a short time in
+this district, having come from Tonala, where he has a _finca_. He
+entertained us at his house, while we were there, and showed us every
+assistance. It is plain, however, that he found us a white elephant upon
+his hands. Not that his willingness was lacking, but where should
+he find one hundred indian men? We pestered him almost to death for
+subjects, when at last his _secretario_ suggested the district jail.
+This was a veritable inspiration. There they were sure we would have no
+difficulty in finding the remainder of our hundred. To the jail we went,
+but out of seventy-five prisoners fully half were Tzotzils from Chamula
+and not Zoques. More than half of the remainder were not indian, but
+_mestizos_. In fact, out of the total number, only a baker's dozen
+served our purpose. When we again presented ourselves, the following
+morning, for subjects, the poor man was in genuine desperation. But
+again his assistant made a shrewd suggestion. Yesterday we were at the
+jail; to-day we should go to the _cuartel_, and measure the soldiers.
+There were two hundred there, and this would more than see us through.
+The _jefe_ himself accompanied us to the barracks and introduced us to
+the colonel, leaving orders that we should be supplied with every aid,
+and went off happy, in the sense of a bad job well done. But out of the
+two hundred soldiers in the barracks, just ten turned out to be Zoques
+of pure blood. And long before the day was over, we were again clamoring
+at the _jefe's_ house for thirty-six more subjects. To tell the truth,
+we doubted his ability to secure them, and, in order to lose no time,
+started our goods and plaster by _carreta_ for San Cristobal. Still,
+while it was plain that he did not know where to look for help, the good
+man assured us that we should have our thirty-six subjects the next
+morning. Meantime, he sent officials with us to visit certain indian
+houses which we desired to examine, and arranged that we should see a
+certain characteristic indian dance at his house, at four o'clock that
+afternoon.
+
+Tuxtla Gutierrez is a capital city. It is also a busy commercial centre.
+Of course, the population is for the most part _mestizo_, and not
+indian. We had been surprised at finding so many indians in the city as
+there were. We were yet more surprised to find to what extent the
+houses of the city, though admirably built, were truly indian in style,
+presenting many points of interest. The walls of the "god-house" were
+heavy and substantial, smoothly daubed with mud, neatly plastered and
+often adorned with colored decorations. The "cook-house," slighter and
+less well-built, was made of poles daubed with mud, and rough with heavy
+thatching. The granary was elevated above the ground, and sheltered with
+its own neat thatching.
+
+In the afternoon, at four o'clock, we betook ourselves to the _jefe's_
+house to see the dance. At Tuxtla, there are two town governments,
+that of the _mestizos_ and that of the indians. The indian
+officials--"_alcaldes indios_"--are recognizable by their dress, which
+is a survival of the ancient indian dress of the district. Their
+_camisa_, broad hat, and leather breeches, are characteristic. Around
+the head, under the hat, they wear a red cloth, and those who have
+served as indian _alcaldes_ continue to wear this head-cloth after their
+official service ends. These indian officials had been commissioned to
+bring together the dancers, and make all necessary arrangements. The
+colonel, the prisoners of state, and one or two other guests were
+present. The leader of the dance was gaily dressed, in a pair of wide
+drawers with lace about the legs below the knee, a pair of overdrawers
+made of bright-colored handkerchiefs, and a helmet or cap of bright-red
+stuff from which rose a crest of macaw feathers, tipped with tufts of
+cotton. On his back, he bore a kind of pouch, the upper edge of which
+was bordered with a line of macaw feathers. In his hand, he carried a
+wooden war-axe. A pretty little girl, dressed in a Guatemaltec _enagua_,
+wore a fancy head-dress, and, in her hand, bore a _j�cara_, which was
+filled with pink carnival flowers. These two dancers faced each other
+and in dancing moved slowly back and forth, and from one foot to the
+other; the only other dancers were two men, one of whom was dressed as,
+and took the part of a woman. This couple danced in much the same way,
+but with greater freedom than the chief persons, and at times circled
+around them. The music consisted of a violin and native _pito_ or pipe,
+and a drum of the _huehuetl_ type,--cut from a single cylindrical block,
+but with skin stretched over both ends instead of one.
+
+I was surprised the following morning when thirty-six subjects were
+produced; we knew that, for the moment, the building operations of the
+government palace were discontinued, and we suspected that all the work
+done by indians in Tuxtla was likewise temporarily ceased. When the last
+one had passed under the instruments, the _jefe_ heaved a sigh, rang his
+bell for glasses, and the event was celebrated by a final draught of
+cognac.
+
+[Illustration: ZOQUE DANCERS; TUXTLA GUTIERREZ]
+
+[Illustration: TZENDALS FROM TENEJAPA; COLD HANDS]
+
+The man with whom we had expected to arrange for animals had promised to
+come to the hotel at seven. He came not then, nor at half-past, nor at
+eight, nor at nine. When we sent an inquiry, he made the cool reply,
+that it was now too late to arrange matters; that he would see us at
+eight the following morning. Furious at his failure, we ourselves went
+with the boy from the hotel at ten o'clock to his house, but could not
+get him even to open the door. "To-morrow! To-morrow!" was his cry.
+Desperate, we went, although it was now almost midnight, to another
+_arriero_, who, after some dickering, agreed to leave at eight the
+following morning, charging a price something more than fifty per cent
+above the usual rate. Of course he was behindhand, but we actually set
+out at nine.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXV
+
+TZOTZILS AND TZENDALS
+
+(1901)
+
+
+We started out over the hot and dusty road, passing here and there
+through cuts of the white earth, which is used by the women of Chiapa in
+their lacquer-work. We soon reached the river, and, leaving our animals
+behind, to cool before swimming them across, embarked with a dozen other
+passengers, and all our baggage, in one of the great canoes, which we
+by no means filled. Landing on the other side, with an hour to wait, we
+walked down stream, and took a fine bath in the fresh cold, clear, deep
+water. Just below where we were bathing, some indians had exploded a
+dynamite cartridge, killing a quantity of fish, and the surface was
+immediately spotted with their white, upturned bellies. A canoe-load of
+four men put out to gather the fish, as soon as the shot was fired. Just
+as they reached the spot, and were leaning over the boat to catch them,
+the canoe overturned, and all the men were floundering in the water, up
+to their necks, and the canoe was rapidly drifting down the stream. The
+fish they get here are quite large, and seem to be a kind of cat-fish.
+Strolling back to our landing-place, we were interested in the lively
+scenes there being enacted. Under little arbors of leafy boughs, women
+were washing clothing; crowds of children, of both sexes, were playing
+on the sand or splashing in the water; half-a-dozen great canoes were
+dragged up on the bank, and amid these a group of little brown fellows,
+from ten to fourteen years of age, were swimming; here and there, a man
+or woman squatted in the shallow water, dipped water over their bare
+bodies with _j�caras_. Now and then the great ferry-boat, loaded with
+passengers and with animals swimming alongside, made its crossing.
+Presently our seven animals were swum across, and, after a moment's
+drying, were repacked and saddled, and we were ready for our forward
+movement.
+
+[Illustration: ZOQUE COMPADRES GREETING; TUXTLA GUTIERREZ]
+
+[Illustration: OUR FERRY-BOAT; CHIAPA]
+
+Chiapa was formerly the great town of the Chiapanecs, an Indian tribe to
+whom tradition assigns past splendor, but who, to-day, are represented
+in three villages, Chiapa, Suchiapa, and Acala. They are much mixed with
+Spanish blood, and have largely forgotten their ancient language. It is,
+however, from them, that the modern state, Chiapas, received its name.
+Chiapa, itself, is a city of some size, situated on a terrace a little
+way from the river, with a ridge of hills rising behind it. The _plaza_
+is large, and in it stands a market-building. Near by is a picturesque
+old gothic fountain, built of brick. Market was almost over, but we were
+interested in seeing the quantities of pineapples and cacao beans there
+offered. To lose no time waiting for dinner, we bought bread and one or
+two large pineapples, which we ate under the shade of the trees in the
+_plaza_. The pineapples were delicious, being tender and exceedingly
+sweet; our _arriero_ refused to eat any of them, asserting that they
+were barely fit to eat, lacking sweetness, and being prickly to the
+taste. The pineapples of Simojovel were to his liking; they are
+sugar-sweet, leaving no prickly sensation, and anyone can eat three
+whole ones at a sitting. After luncheon, we looked about for examples of
+lacquer-work. In one house, we found some small objects and wooden trays
+of indifferent workmanship. An old crone, badly affected with _pinto_,
+the mother of the young woman artist, showed us the wares. With her was
+the older sister of the lady-worker, who, after we had bought two of
+the trays, asked whence we came. Upon our telling her that Manuel was a
+native of Cordoba, and that I had come from the United States, without a
+word of warning she raised her hands, turned her eyes upward, and gave
+vent to a torrent of shrill, impassioned, apostrophe to her absent,
+artistic sister: "_A dios, hermana mia_, Anastasia Torres, to think that
+your art-products should penetrate to those distant lands, to those
+remote portions of the world, to be the wonder and admiration of foreign
+eyes. _A dios, hermana mia_, Anastasia Torres!" This she repeated
+several times, in a voice high enough to be heard a block or two away.
+Leaving her to continue her exclamations of joy and admiration over the
+fate of her sister's workmanship, we returned to the _plaza_, where,
+in a house near by, we found a considerable stock of better work,
+consisting of decorated bowls, cups, toy _j�caras_, gourd-rattles, etc.
+This brilliant work, characteristic of the town, is carried hundreds
+of miles into the States of Oaxaca, Tabasco, Vera Cruz, and into the
+Republic of Guatemala. At two o'clock we hurried from the town in the
+midst of terrific heat. As we rode out, over the dry and sandy road, we
+were impressed by the display of death; not only was there one cemetery,
+with its whitened walls and monuments, but at least three other burial
+places capped the little hillocks at the border of the town. One,
+particularly attracted attention, as it resembled an ancient terraced
+pyramid, with a flight of steps up one side.
+
+From the foothills, we struck up the flank of the great mountain mass
+itself. Mounting higher and higher, a great panorama presented itself
+behind and below us, including the Chiapa valley, with the hills beyond
+it. It was, however, merely extensive, and not particularly beautiful
+or picturesque. As we followed the slope towards the crest, into the
+narrowing valley, the scene became bolder, until we were at the very
+edge of a mighty chasm, which yawned sheer at our side. Following it, we
+saw the gorge suddenly shallow hundreds of feet by a vast precipice of
+limestone rock rising from its bottom. Having passed this, we journeyed
+on up the ca�on, lessened in grandeur, but still presenting pretty bits
+of scenery. Up to this point, limestone had prevailed, but from here on,
+we passed over various formations--heavy beds of sand or clay, lying
+upon conglomerates and shales. The road wound astonishingly, and at one
+point, coming out upon a hog's-back ridge, we found that we had actually
+made a loop, and stood directly above where we had been some time
+before. Near sunset, we reached the summit, and looked down upon the
+little town of Ixtapa, upon a high _llano_ below, and seeming to be a
+half-hour's ride distant. Descending on to the _llano_, we found it
+intersected by deep and narrow gorges; following along the level, narrow
+ridge, surrounded by ravines on every side, except the one from which we
+had approached, we presently descended, along its flank, the bank of the
+deepest of these _barrancas_. The sun had set long before we reached
+the bottom, and through the darkness, we had to climb up over the steep
+dugway in the sandy clay to the village, which we reached at seven. The
+little room supplied us for a sleeping-place was clean and neat, the
+floor was strewn with fresh and fragrant pine-needles, and the wooden
+beds were supplied with _petates_. Leaving before eight, the following
+morning, we travelled through a beautiful ca�on, with an abundant stream
+of whitish-blue water, tumbling in fine cascades among the rocks, and
+dashing now and then into deep pools of inky blackness. Having passed
+through it, our bridle-trail plunged abruptly downward. From it, we
+looked upon a neighboring slope, cut at three different levels, one
+above the other, for the cart-road. Passing next through a small ca�on
+of little beauty, but where the air was heavy with an odor like vanilla,
+coming from sheets of pale-purple or violet flowers, on trees of eight
+or ten feet in height, we reached San Sebastian, where we found our
+_carretero_, whom we supposed to have reached San Cristobal the day
+before. Rating him soundly, and threatening dire consequences from his
+delay, we resumed our journey. We were also worried over our _mozo_,
+who started from Chiapa at noon, the day before, with our photographic
+instruments, and whom we had not seen since, although there were several
+places where we would gladly have taken views. From here, for a long
+distance, the road was a hard, steep climb, over limestone in great
+variety--solid limestone, tufaceous stuff, concretionary coatings, satin
+spar, and calcite crystals. Having passed a small pueblo, or large
+_finca_, lying in a little plain below us, we looked down upon
+Zinacantan. The descent was quickly made, and passing through the
+village, without stopping, we made a long, slow, ascent before catching
+sight of our destination, San Cristobal. It made a fine appearance,
+lying on a little terrace at the base of hills, at the very end of the
+valley. Its churches and public buildings are so situated as to make
+the most impression; on account of its length and narrowness, the town
+appears much larger than it really is. We entered at one end, and then,
+practically, paralleled our trail through it to the centre, where we
+stopped at the Hotel Progreso, at 3:30 in the afternoon. We went to the
+palace, and made arrangements so promptly that we could have begun work
+immediately, if the _carretero_ and _mozo_ had not been behind. As it
+was, we waited until next day, and were warned by the _secretario_ at
+the _jefatura_ that there would not be enough light for work before nine
+o'clock. In the evening, we called on Padre Sanchez, well known for his
+study of the native languages, and the works he had written regarding
+them. He is a large man, well-built, of attractive appearance, and of
+genial manner. He has been _cura_ in various indian towns among the
+Chamulas, and he loves the indians, and is regarded as a friend by them.
+We were prepared for a cold night, and had it, though no heavy frost
+formed, as had done the night before. In one day's journey, the
+traveller finds towns, in this neighborhood, with totally different
+climates. Here woolen garments are necessary, and in towns like Chamula
+and Cancuc the indians find the heaviest ones comfortable. Our rating of
+the _carretero_ had an effect both prompt and dire; when we left him,
+he hastened to hire carriers to bring in the more important part of our
+load; these, he insisted, should travel all night, and at eight o'clock
+we found them at the hotel. In the darkness they had stumbled, and our
+loads had fallen. Whole boxes of unused plates were wrecked, and, still
+worse, many of our choicest negatives were broken. At nine o'clock the
+missing _mozo_ appeared with the instruments; it is customary for our
+carrier to keep up with the company, as we have frequent need of taking
+views upon the journey; this was almost the only instance, in the
+hundreds of leagues that we have travelled on horseback, over mountain
+roads, where our carrier had failed to keep alongside of the animals, or
+make the same time in journeying that we mounted travellers did.
+
+[Illustration: THE JAIL; SAN CRISTOBAL]
+
+[Illustration: TZOTZIL MUSICIANS IN SAN CRISTOBAL JAIL]
+
+Though there had been an early mist, there was no lack of sunshine, even
+before seven. Still, we did not go to the palace until nine o'clock, the
+hour set. San Cristobal was formerly the capital of the state, and its
+public buildings are more pretentious than usual in _cabeceras_. The
+place in which we did our work was a building of two stories, filling
+one side of the plaza. We worked in the broad corridor of the second
+story, outside of the _secretario's_ office, from which our subjects,
+mostly indians who had come to pay school-taxes, were sent to us for
+measurement. The market-place of San Cristobal is characteristically
+indian. Not only do the two chief tribes which frequent it--Tzotzils and
+Tzendals--differ in dress, but even the different villages of each wear
+characteristic garments. The Tzotzil of Chamula differs from his brother
+of Huixtan and San Bartolome; the Tzendal women of Tenejapa, Cancuc and
+San Andres may be quickly recognized by difference in dress.
+
+Most interesting are the Tzotzils of Chamula. Though looked upon by the
+_mestizos_ of San Cristobal as mere brutes and savages, they are notably
+industrious. They weave heavy, woolen blankets and _chamaras_; they
+are skilled carpenters, making plain furniture of every kind; they are
+musicians, and manufacture quantities of harps, guitars, and
+violins; they braid straw, and make hats of palm; they are excellent
+leather-dressers, and give a black stain and polish to heavy leather,
+which is unequalled by the work of their white neighbors. Men wear lower
+garments of cotton, and heavy black woolen over-garments, which are
+gathered at the waist with woolen girdles. They wear broad-brimmed,
+low-crowned hats, of their own braiding, which they adorn with long,
+streaming, red and green ribbons. Their sandals are supplied with
+heel-guards of black leather, the height of which indicates the wealth
+or consequence of the wearer. These indians of Chamula have a love of
+liberty and desire for independence. The most serious outbreak of recent
+times was theirs in 1868, when, under the influence of the young woman,
+Checheb, they attempted to restore the native government, the indian
+life, and the old-time religion. Temples were erected to the ancient
+gods, whose inspired priestess the young woman claimed to be; but three
+hundred years of Christianity had accustomed them to the idea of a
+Christ crucified; an indian Christ was necessary, not one from the hated
+invading race; accordingly, a little indian lad, the nephew of the
+priestess, was crucified, to become a saviour for their race. Their
+plans involved the killing of every white and _mestizo_ in all the
+country; in reality, more than one hundred men, women, and children,
+in the _fincas_ and little towns, were killed; San Cristobal, then the
+capital city, suffered a veritable panic, and it took the entire force
+of the whole state to restore order.
+
+[Illustration: TZOTZILS; HUIXTAN]
+
+[Illustration: TZOTZIL WOMAN; CHAMULA]
+
+The Tzendals of Tenejapa are picturesque in the extreme. Their dark
+skin, their long black hair, completely covering and concealing the
+ears, their coarse features, and the black and white striped _chamaras_
+of wool--which they buy from the weavers of Chamula--form a striking
+combination. They do but little weaving, their chief industry being the
+raising and selling of fruits. Most of the men carry a little sack,
+netted from strong fibre, slung at one side. Among other trifling
+possessions in it, is generally a little gourd filled with a green
+powder, which they call _mai_, or _pelico_. It consists chiefly of
+tobacco, with a mixture of lime and chili, and is chewed, no doubt, for
+stimulating properties--to remove the weariness of the road, and "to
+strengthen the teeth," as some say.
+
+When we had exhausted the stock of those who came to pay their taxes,
+it was suggested that we would find good subjects in the jail. This
+occupied what was once a fine old convent, built around a large
+open court, and connected with the church, which, judging from its
+elaborately carved fa�ade, must have been beautiful. On presenting our
+credentials to the officials, an order was given, and all the pure-blood
+indians, one hundred at least, were lined up before us for inspection.
+There were Tzotzils from Chamula, and Tzendals from Tenejapa, and among
+them many excellent faces, showing the pure types, finely developed.
+Having made our inspection, and indicated those whom we should use, we
+looked about the prison. The prisoners were housed in the old rooms of
+the monastery, each of which was large enough for six or eight persons.
+In these rooms, each prisoner had his personal possessions--good
+clothing, tools, cherished articles, instruments of music. Those who
+cared to do so, were permitted to work at such things as they could do,
+and the product of their labor was sold for their benefit. Some braided
+palm into long strips, to make up into hats; others plaited straw into
+elaborate, decorative cords or bands for hats; some wove _pita_ into
+pouches; some dressed leather. Almost all were busily employed. Freedom
+of conversation and visiting was permitted, and there was no particular
+hardship in the matter of imprisonment, except the inability to go
+outside. We were impressed with the fact that, in appearance and manner,
+few, if any, of these indian prisoners, particularly the Chamulas,
+showed any signs of criminal tendencies. In fact, they were as clean,
+as frank, as docile, as intelligent, as any persons we might find in
+Mexico. A little curious to know the charges on which they had been
+committed, we inquired, and discovered that some had fifteen or twenty
+points against them, among which were such trifling charges as murder,
+manslaughter, arson, rape, and highway robbery. We thought best not to
+inquire too closely, but it is doubtful, whether any of the subjects
+here incarcerated under these long and dreadful lists of charges, are
+guilty of anything except insurrection--a final struggle for freedom.
+
+[Illustration: POSITION OF REST; TZENDALS, TENEJAPA]
+
+[Illustration: TZOTZILS FROM HUIXTAN]
+
+There were various signs of the approach of Holy Week, and the landlady
+at our hotel, and her various helpers, were busy manufacturing incense
+for that occasion. This was made in sticks, as thick as the thumb, and
+six or eight inches in length, of a black color. Besides copal, leaves
+and other materials from various kinds of odorous plants were employed
+in its fabrication; the incense thus made is really fragrant, and it
+would be interesting to know whether it is, in part at least, of indian
+origin. In three days we had completed our examination of the men, but
+not a woman had been produced for examination. On the fourth day, we
+reiterated our demands to the authorities, and Don Murcio, the janitor
+or messenger, who had been put subject to our order, was almost frantic.
+He declared that to secure the women we needed would tax every power of
+the government; that they refused to come; that his mere appearance in
+the market caused a scattering. Finally, we told him, that if he would
+provide twenty-five Chamula women, we would get the Tzendals in their
+villages, as we passed through them. Encouraged, by having one-half of
+our demand abated, he made another visit to the market. Soon we heard
+excited voices, and a moment later Don Murcio came rushing up the stairs
+with both arms filled with black _chamaras_. It is the custom of the
+indian women, when they come to market, and settle down with wares to
+sell, to fold their heavier garments and lay them on the ground beside
+them. Don Murcio had gathered up the first of these he came to, and fled
+with them to the government palace, while the crowd of angry women,
+chasing along behind, expressed their feelings vigorously. Putting the
+garments out of reach, the women were told by the officials, that each
+would receive back her property as soon as the strangers made their
+desired measurements. While we were dealing with the first cluster, Don
+Murcio sallied forth, and returned once more with garments and women. In
+this way, the work proceeded, until the final lot were in our hands.
+Not to unnecessarily increase their terrors, we had refrained from
+photographing, until the final company had been secured. We had told the
+officials of our plan, and as these later ones were measured, they were
+told that they must wait for their garments until the last one was
+measured, and until the gentleman had done some other work. When all had
+been measured, it was explained to the six of seven in the group, that
+they were to go down into the _patio_, where a picture would be taken of
+the company. That they might be properly prepared for the picture, their
+garments were returned. Suspecting no treachery, Don Murcio led the
+way, and one of two police officers accompanied the forward part of the
+procession, while Louis brought up the rear, in expectation of making
+the portrait. All went well until the first two or three had entered the
+_patio_, when the rest suddenly balked, and started to run out onto the
+street. Hearing the confusion, I started down and caught one of the
+women as she neared the doorway, while Louis held another, and each of
+the police officers, and Don Murcio, seized a prisoner. So violent,
+however, were the struggles, and so loud the outcries of the woman whom
+I held, that I released her, which was the unintended signal for each of
+the other guards to do the same, and our group vanished and all thought
+of gathering a second was given up in desperation.
+
+[Illustration: TZOTZIL BROTHERS; CHAMULA]
+
+[Illustration: TZENDAL FATHER AND SON; TENEJAPA]
+
+The morning had thus passed; animals for the further journey had been
+ordered for ten o'clock, and were really ready a little before three.
+For once, however, _we_ were not prepared. It was our custom to pack the
+busts in petroleum boxes; these boxes, each holding a five-gallon can of
+oil, are of just the size to take a single bust, and they are so thin
+and light, yet at the same time, so well constructed, that they served
+our purpose admirably. In small indian towns, they are frequently
+unobtainable, but in the places where _mestizos_ live, it had been
+always easy to procure them, at prices varying from ten to twenty-five
+cents each. In a town the size of San Cristobal, it should be easy to
+get them; to our surprise, we found that they had been in such demand,
+for carrying purposes by public workmen, that the supply was small and
+the price outrageous. We had left the securing of the boxes and the
+packing of the busts to our plaster-worker, and, though we knew he had
+had difficulty, imagined that he had secured all needed, and that the
+busts would be all ready. Diligent search, however, had secured but two
+boxes, and ridiculous prices had been demanded for those. All of us took
+to the streets, visiting stores and private houses, and at last five
+boxes were secured, though they were a dilapidated lot, with bad covers.
+For these we paid an average of sixty-two cents each. Realizing the time
+and labor necessary for securing boxes, stuff for packing, and for the
+work of putting up the busts, we dismissed our horsemen, and arranged
+for leaving the next morning. In fact, night had fallen before our work
+was done. Leaving a little before eight, we had a magnificent mountain
+ride. For a league or more, we rose steadily over a cart-road; keeping
+at a high altitude, and, with but little of ups and downs, we journeyed
+through fine pine forests, with oaks mingled, here and there, among the
+pines. We met quantities of Chamula and Tenejapa indians on their way to
+market. The Chamulas carried chairs, loads of well-tanned skins, and
+sacks full of little, round wooden boxes, well and neatly made, while
+the Tenejapes were loaded with nets of oranges, _limas_, and
+_ahuacates_. We were sorry to leave the village of Chamula to one side,
+but lack of time forbade our visiting it. It was amusing to note the
+terror of our _arriero_ on the road. Until we passed Cancuc, he was
+constantly expecting attack from the dreadful indians of Chamula,
+Tenejapa, and Cancuc, telling us that such attacks might be expected at
+any time, but particularly in the early morning and in the dusk of
+evening. What indians we met were most gentle, and answered our
+salutations with apparent kindness. After a long journey on the high,
+smooth road, we finally began descending into a pretty valley, and soon
+saw the great town of Tenejapa, below us, on a space almost as level as
+a floor, neatly laid out, and still decked with the arches erected for a
+recent fiesta. The _agente_ of the town had been warned of our coming,
+by telephone from the _jefatura_, and received us warmly, a little
+before one o'clock, giving us a large and comfortable room in the
+municipal building, supplied with chairs and benches, and a table,
+though without beds or mats. We were here delayed by the slowness of the
+old man, who had been furnished at San Cristobal for carrying our
+instruments. By three o'clock, all was ready, and the twenty-five women
+were summoned. They gave no kind of trouble, and by six o'clock the work
+was done. Women here braid their hair in two braids, which are wrapped
+about closely with cords, making them look like red ropes; these are
+then wound around the head and picturesquely fastened. The _huip�ls_ of
+cotton are short, and decorated with scattered designs, worked in color,
+and loosely arranged in transverse bands. Belts are of wool, red in
+color, and broad, but not long. Over their shoulders the women wear,
+particularly in cool weather, a red and blue striped cotton shawl or
+wrap. The red worn--whether in belts, wraps, or hair-strings--is all of
+one shade, a dull crimson-red. As night fell, dozens of little bonfires
+were lighted in the plaza, made from cobwork piles of fat-pine. People
+were already gathering from other pueblos for market, and many of them
+slept through the night in the open market-place. The band played a
+mournful piece, repeatedly, during the evening, and some rockets were
+fired--no doubt, the tailing-off of the late fiesta.
+
+[Illustration: CLOSE OF MARKET, TENEJAPA]
+
+Market had begun in the morning, as we prepared to leave, but the
+great plaza was not more than half-full, and there was little that was
+characteristic. Noteworthy, however, were the great loaves of salt made
+at Ixtapa; about the size of old-fashioned sugar-loaves, they were
+shaped in rush-mats, and showed the marks of the matting on their
+surface; saws were used to cut off pieces for purchasers. The _agente_
+said that it was not good, being mixed with earth or sand. He, himself,
+came from the neighborhood of Tapachula, where quantities of salt are
+made from the lagoon water. The salt-water and the salt-soaked earth
+from the bottom of the lagoon are put into vats and leached, and the
+resulting saline is boiled in ovens, each of which contains an _olla_.
+The industry is conducted by _ladinos_, as well as indians, but the salt
+is poor.
+
+It was 8:45 when we started, and almost immediately we began a hard
+climb over limestone, giving a severe test to our poor animals. At the
+summit we found a group of indian carriers, who, as usual, stopped
+at the pass to rest and look upon the landscape. The view was really
+beautiful, the little town lying in a curious, level valley, which was
+encircled by an abrupt slope, and which had been excavated from an
+almost level plateau. For some time, we followed this high level, but
+finally plunged down into a deep gully, where our road passed away
+to the left in a dry gorge, while to the right, the valley deepened
+abruptly by a great vertical wall. When we reached the point of sudden
+deepening, in the gorge below, we saw water, bursting in volume from the
+cliff's base. Dismounting from our horses, and climbing down, we found
+a magnificent arch of limestone over the emerging stream, the water of
+which was fresh and cold, and clear as crystal. The shallow portion of
+the valley marks the ancient level of the stream. In some past time, the
+stream had sunk, cutting a subterranean channel under its old bed, which
+was left high and dry. The deep part of the valley may be due to the
+falling of the roof of rock above the subterranean stream. Following up
+the ancient valley, we presently turned into one of its old tributary
+gorges, coming out into a country well-wooded with pines and oaks. The
+whole country hereabouts is composed of monoclines, all the crests
+presenting one long, gentle slope, with rocks dipping with the slope,
+and one abrupt short slope, cutting the strata. The roads, for the most
+part, follow along the edge of these monoclines, making them unusually
+long, though easy. The rocks over which we passed were an olive
+shaly-sandstone, with notable concentric weathering, limestone, and here
+and there, red sandstone, abundantly green-spotted. Indians, everywhere,
+were burning over fields, preparatory to planting, while the day was
+clear, the smoke rose in clouds, and at many places we suffered from
+these field fires. Twice we passed a point just as the flames leaped
+from one side of the road to the other, and rode between two lines of
+blaze. The fire, burning green branches and stalks, caused thousands of
+loud explosions, like the rattle of musketry.
+
+Long before we were near it, we caught sight of Cancuc, the beautiful,
+perched upon its lofty crest. In San Cristobal, our journey had
+been matter of conversation among the _mestizos_ and many and dire
+predictions had been made. "Ah, yes, it is easy for these gentlemen to
+do this work here in the _cabecera_, but let them get to Tenejapa, and
+Cancuc--there it will be another matter; they will be killed upon the
+journey; if they reach Cancuc, they will never leave the town alive."
+The town is built on the edge of a ridge, which drops in both
+directions, leaving barely room for the placing of houses. From it, we
+looked out in every direction over a magnificent landscape. Cancuc is
+famous for the insurrection of 1712. Curiously, like the outbreak at
+Chamula in 1868, it was due to the visions and religious influence of a
+girl. Maria Candaleria was the centre and impulse of the whole movement.
+Dr. Brinton has thrown the incident, which abounded in picturesque
+details, and which caused the Spanish government great difficulty, into
+a little drama, which bears the name of the inspired priestess.
+
+[Illustration: TZENDAL MAN AND WIFE; TENEJAPA]
+
+[Illustration: TZENDALS; TENEJAPA]
+
+We were now within the district of my friend Valencia. Two years ago,
+when we passed through the country of the Mixes, he was the _jefe
+politico_ of the District of Yautepec; he had been transferred to this
+state and this district, with his _cabecera_ at Ocosingo. That town lay
+far from our course, and we had written Se�or Valencia, that we planned
+to pass through his district, but had not time to visit the _cabecera_.
+We named the towns through which we planned to pass, and begged him to
+send orders directly to the local authorities, instead of trying to
+communicate with us. This he had done promptly, and during our stay in
+his district, everything was done for us without delay. The _agente_
+at Cancuc is a new official, but a man of sense, and sympathy for the
+indians, among whom he lives. We arrived at half-past three and had our
+_mozo_ been on time, might have done some work. The _agente_ showed
+us the historic picture in the old church; it is the portrait of a
+clergyman, whose influence did much to quell the insurrection in 1713.
+More interesting to us than the old picture, were groups of indians,
+kneeling and praying. When they knelt, they touched their foreheads and
+faces to the ground, which they saluted with a kiss. Having assumed
+the attitude of prayer, they were oblivious to all around them, and,
+curiously, their prayers were in the native language. The town-house was
+placed at the disposition of our party, but the _agente's_ bed, in his
+own house, was given to me. As I sat writing at the table in his room,
+the whole town government--a dozen or so in number--stalked in. Most of
+them wore the heavy black _chamaras_ made by the Chamula indians. These
+were so long that they almost swept the ground. The faces of the men
+were dark and wild, and their hair hung in great black shocks down upon
+their shoulders and backs. In their hands they held their long official
+staves. Advancing to the table where I sat, in the order of their rank,
+they saluted me, kissing my hand; arranging themselves in a half-circle
+before my table, the _presidente_ placed before me a bowl filled with
+eggs, each wrapped in corn-husks, while the first _alcalde_ deposited a
+cloth filled with a high pile of hot _tortillas_; a speech was made in
+Tzendal, which was translated by the second official, in which they told
+me that they appreciated our visit; it gave them pleasure that such
+important persons should come from such a distance to investigate the
+life and manners of their humble town; they trusted that our errand
+might be entirely to our wishes, and that, in leaving, we might bear
+with us a pleasant memory. They begged us to accept the poor presents
+they had brought, while they assured us that, in them, we had our
+thousand most obedient servants. And this in Cancuc--the town where
+we were to have met our death! At night, the fires on a hundred hills
+around us made a magnificent display, forming all sorts of fantastic
+combinations and outlines. In the evening, the son of the _agente_, who
+had been to Tenango with a friend, came home in great excitement. He was
+a lively young fellow of eighteen years. At the river-crossing, where
+they arrived at five in the evening, a black cow, standing in the river,
+scared their horses so that they could not make them cross; the boy
+emptied his revolver at the animal, but with no effect; it was clearly
+a _vaca bruja_--witch cow; an hour and a half was lost before they
+succeeded in getting their horses past with a rush.
+
+[Illustration: THE TOWN GOVERNMENT; CANCUC]
+
+The morning was spent in making pictures. While still in Yucatan, we
+heard about the music of Cancuc, and among our views was one of the
+musicians. These are three in number, and they head processions at
+fiestas; the drum, like that we saw at Tuxtla, is cylindrical, with two
+heads; the _pito_ is the usual reed whistle; the _tortuga_, a large
+turtle-shell, was brought from Palenque; it is hung by a belt to the
+player, and is beaten on the lower side with two leg-bones of a deer.
+The Cancuc dress is simple. Men wear the breech-clout, and, when they
+carry burdens, little else; at other times, they wear short, cotton
+trousers which hardly reach the knees. The chief garment is a _camisa_,
+of native cotton, with a colored stitching at the neck and along the
+seam where the two edges join; this _camisa_ is of such length that,
+when girded, it hangs just to, or a little below, the lower edge of the
+trouser leg. The belts are home-woven, but are made of cotton which is
+bought already dyed a brilliant red or yellow. Women wear woolen belts
+made by Chamulas; their _enaguas_ are plain, dull blue in color; their
+_huip�ls_ are a dirty white, with a minimum of colored stitching. The
+chief industry at Cancuc is raising pigs for market.
+
+At 1:15 we started from the town, and rode down the crest of long,
+gently-sloping ridges, which seemed interminable. The rock over which we
+passed was red sandstone, mottled and streaked with green, red shale,
+and occasional patches of conglomerate. Crossing a little stream by a
+pretty bridge, we made an abrupt ascent, and soon saw the little town,
+Cuaquitepec, at the base of the opposite hill.
+
+We met many indians carrying great ovoidal jars which were made at
+Tenango, and which are chiefly used for carrying _chicha_. This is a
+fermented drink, made from the sap of sugar-cane, and is much used
+throughout this state and the adjoining parts of Central America. We
+inquired of a girl who carried such a vessel, what she had, and asked
+to try it. She gave us a sip in a wee gourd-vessel, holding less than a
+wine-glass. Knowing nothing of the price of _chicha_, we gave her six
+centavos, with which she seemed well satisfied. A little later, deciding
+to test the drink again, we stopped a man, who had a vessel of it, and
+again were given the little cup. On stating that we wished a centavo's
+worth, we were much surprised to have him fill a great _j�cara_ for
+the price mentioned. It seems the little vessel is carried only for
+sampling, and that a sale is made only after the purchaser has approved
+the quality.
+
+Reaching Cuaquitepec at five, we rode up to the town-house, that the
+authorities might know that we had passed. The place is small and
+dwindling; there are relatively many _ladinos_, and few indians. They
+were expecting us, and seemed disappointed at our refusal to stop.
+The shell of the old church, almost ready to fall, suggested past
+magnificence. The little modern structure, at its side, is suited to the
+present needs. We were vexed at the wanton sacrifice of a great
+tree, which had stood near the town-house, but whose giant trunk was
+prostrate, and stripped of its branches. A man on foot showed us the
+road beyond the town, and it was moonlight before we reached Citala,
+where we planned to sleep. Of the town itself, we know nothing. The old
+church is decaying, but in its best days must have been magnificent. The
+_presidente_ was absent, but his wife, an active, bustling intelligent
+_ladino_, expected us, and did everything possible for our comfort.
+Eggs, beans, _tortillas_ and coffee made up the supper. A room,
+containing a bed for me, and _petates_ on the floor for my companions,
+was waiting. When a light was struck more than a dozen great cockroaches
+were seen running over the wall, none of them less than two inches and a
+half in length, and of the most brilliant orange and dark brown. In the
+morning, a fine chicken breakfast was promptly ready, and the woman had
+summoned a _cargador_ to be ready for our starting. She said that in
+this town there is a considerable indian population, and that these
+Tzendals are tall and strongly-built, in comparison with those of
+Cuaquitepec, and other neighboring towns. She regretted that we could
+not wait until her husband came, as she had sent him word of our
+arrival, and was expecting him. We assured her that she had done
+everything which he could possibly have done, had he been present, and
+that we should, with pleasure, report our satisfaction to the _jefe_.
+
+[Illustration: INDIAN CARRIERS RESTING]
+
+[Illustration: DRIVING PIGS, NEAR CANCUC]
+
+The _cargador_ whom she supplied, was a comfort, after the wretched
+sluggards whom we had lately had. With our instruments upon his
+shoulders, he trotted, like a faithful dog, directly at our side, from
+start to finish, never showing the least weariness or sense of burden.
+Both foot _mozos_ and _arrieros_ through this district carry a mass of
+_posole_ with them on a journey. Unlike that which Eustasio and his
+Zapotec companions carried, the mass here is pure corn, white and moist,
+being kept wrapped in fresh banana leaves; at every brook-side, a
+_j�cara_ of fresh water is dipped, and a handful of _posole_ is squeezed
+up in it till thoroughly mixed, when it is drunk. It tastes a little
+sour, and is refreshing. At 11:15, we passed the bridge over the stream
+on which Chilon is built, and a moment later drew up at the town-house.
+Here we regretted that our serious work with the Tzendals was done.
+We were received royally, and told that our house was ready. This was
+really so, a pretty little house of three good rooms having been cleaned
+and prepared for our use. We lay down and napped until the good dinner,
+which had been started when we had first been seen upon the road, and
+some time before we reached the village, was ready. Sitting on the porch
+of our little house, and looking out over bushes, full of roses, in the
+garden before us, we rested until the greatest heat of the day was past,
+when we started, and pushed on over the three leagues that lay between
+us and Yajalon, where we arrived at near sunset. The town is large, and,
+in great part, indian. The women dressed more gaily than in any other
+Tzendal town which we have seen; their _huip�ls_ were decorated with a
+mass of bright designs, worked in colored wools or silk. Here we saw our
+first Chol, a carrier, passing through the village with his load; in
+order to make a start upon our final tribe, we had him halted, to take
+his measurements and picture. At this town, we stopped at a sort of
+boarding-house, or traveller's-rest, close by the town-house, kept by
+a widow with several children. We impressed upon this good woman the
+necessity of having breakfast without fail at five o'clock, as we wished
+to make an early start, stopping at Hidalgo for work during the hotter
+portion of the day, and pressing on to Tumbala at night. The poor
+creature kept me awake all night, making her preparations for the meal,
+which was to be a masterpiece of culinary art, and at four o'clock
+routed us all out with the report that breakfast was waiting on the
+table. It was a turkey-breakfast, too.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXVI
+
+CHOLS
+
+(1901)
+
+
+Of course, after such a start, we were delayed in getting the animals
+ready for the journey, and the sun had been up full half an hour when we
+left. It was a short ride to Hidalgo, which lies prettily in a small,
+flat valley, on a good-sized stream. We were doubtful about our
+reception, for Yajalon was the last town in Valencia's district, and we
+had no documents to present to the town officials, until we should reach
+El Salto, the _cabecera_, except our general letter from Governor
+Lopez. It is true that the _presidente_ of Yajalon, at our request, had
+telephoned Hidalgo that we came highly recommended, and that everything
+possible must be done for our assistance. The _agente_ was an old man,
+suffering from headache, who showed but listless interest in our work.
+In a general way, he gave us his endorsement, and we, therefore, took
+the management into our own hands. He had kept the people in town,
+so that we had subjects, though fewer than we had hoped. We measured
+twenty-seven men, and there were really no more in the town, the rest
+being away on _fincas_. The men gave us no trouble, but the women were
+another matter. Several times we issued orders that they be brought to
+the town-house for measurement, and each time, after an effort to obey
+our orders, we were told that they would not come. "Very good," said I,
+"if they will not come, it is plain that we must go and measure them in
+their houses." Accompanied by the town government, we started on our
+rounds. The first house was tightly closed, and no reply was made to our
+demands for entrance. The second was the same; one might imagine that
+it had been deserted for weeks. At the third, the door was opened, and
+within, an aged woman, ugly, bent, decrepit. Here we measured. The next
+house, and the next, and the next, were shut. And then another open
+house contained another veritable hag. Passing several other houses,
+tightly closed, we found a third old woman, and I saw that we were
+destined to secure nothing but decrepit hags, as representatives of
+the fair sex. At the next closed house, I stopped, and turning to an
+official, who spoke Spanish, said, "I am tired of these closed houses;
+who owns this house?" His name was given, and I wrote it down. "Very
+well," said I, "I shall recommend to the _jefe_ of the district, when I
+reach El Salto, that he be made to pay a fine of five pesos." At this,
+the town officials gasped, but we walked to the next house, which was
+also closed. "Who owns this house?" And down went a second name. By
+the time I had three names of owners of closed houses on my paper, the
+officials held a hasty whispered consultation; then coming to me,
+they begged me to excuse them for a moment, as the _secretario_ would
+accompany me upon my round, and they would soon rejoin us. With this,
+they disappeared, and we entered another old woman's house. When we
+emerged, a wonderful change had taken place; every house in the village
+had its door wide open, and in the doorway were to be seen anywhere from
+one to three or four ladies of all ages. From this time on, there was no
+lack of women, and the twenty-five were promptly measured.
+
+We had picked out our subjects for modeling before we started on our
+rounds to measure women; and had left Ramon in charge of that part of
+our work, staying only long enough to see him make the mould of the
+first subject. This was an indian, named Juan, the first _alcalde_ of
+the village. We had carefully explained the operation to our subjects;
+we had described in detail the sensations and emotions connected with
+the thing, and thought we had the subjects well prepared. When Juan
+began, he seemed to have good courage, but we told a young fellow, who
+sat near and understood Spanish, that he should tell the man certain
+encouraging things which we repeated to him. The translation was
+promptly done, and we were therefore much surprised to see our subject's
+confidence gradually give way to terror. While we were applying the
+first mould, he began to sob and cry like a child; this was, however,
+nothing compared with the abject terror and sorrow which he displayed
+while we were making the face-mould. The tears flowed from his eyes; he
+sobbed, cried aloud, and we could see the thumping of his heart against
+his chest. We had never had a subject who took the matter so hardly.
+When the operation was completed, we learned the cause of all this
+trouble. Our interpreter turned out to be a joker, and, while we were
+telling him encouraging remarks, with which to soothe the subject, he
+was saying, "Now you will die; pretty soon you will not be able to
+breathe any more; you will be dead and buried before to-morrow; your
+poor widow will no doubt feel badly, but probably she will find another
+quite as good as you." We had always realized the possibility of such
+misinterpretations, but, so far as we know, this was the only time that
+our interpreter ever played us false.
+
+On our return from measuring the women, we found that Ramon had made
+no progress. The three subjects, whom we had selected and left in his
+charge, under strenuous orders, had taken fright at Juan's experience
+and fled. We lost two hours in hunting them and bringing them in; and we
+should not have succeeded then, had it not been for Juan's assistance.
+He seemed to feel that, having undergone the operation, it might ease
+his position, and decrease possible danger, if he had companions in
+misery. Finally, at 4:30, long after the hour we had set, we left for
+Tumbala. We secured six _cargadors_--one each for the four moulds,
+one for the instruments, and one for the remaining plaster,--as our
+pack-animals had long since passed. Five of them were left to follow
+at their leisure, on condition that they reach Tumbala early the next
+morning, but the sixth, a wee old man, who had helped us woman-hunting,
+went with us, by his own request, to carry the instruments. He was so
+small that we did not believe he could carry the burden, but he made no
+sort of trouble about it, trotting along most happily. We had been told
+that the road was _pura subida_--pure ascent--and so we found it. We
+were soon in the tropical forest of the Chinantla, and the land of the
+Mixes, with begonias, tree-ferns, bromelias, and orchids. Here and
+there, were bad bits of road, deep mud, slippery stones, irregular
+limestone masses. It was dark before we reached Tumbala, and although
+there was a moon, the mists were so dense that it did little good.
+Arriving at 6:45, we found the town a wretched place, with a worthless
+and nerveless _agente_. This was once the largest of the Chol towns,
+and we had thought to do the bulk of our work there. It is fortunate,
+indeed, that we stopped at Hidalgo, because Tumbala is now completely
+ruined by the contract-labor system, which has sent its men all through
+the country onto _fincas_. The _agente_ would probably have done nothing
+for us, but his little daughter, much impressed by our letter from the
+governor, took an active interest in our welfare, promised to prepare a
+dinner, and decided him to give us sleeping-quarters in a store-room
+in the building. He thawed a little after we had eaten, but spoke
+discouragingly regarding the possibility of working there. He said we
+would do well to go to El Triunfo; that it would take two days to find
+indians and bring them to the town; that there were no animals, nothing
+to eat, no conveniences in Tumbala, in all of which he probably was
+quite correct. Our _arrieros_ had contracted only to this point from San
+Cristobal. We urged them to make the further journey, and offered them
+a price much above the regular, but they wanted to be back in San
+Cristobal for Holy Week, and assured us that the roads ahead were the
+worst that could be imagined, and that they ran the risk of killing all
+their animals if they went with us.
+
+[Illustration: THE TORO; FRAME AND BEARER; EL TRIUNFO]
+
+[Illustration: PLAYING TORO; EL TRIUNFO]
+
+As we were on the road, a little before we reached Tumbala, we found a
+company of indian boys making camp for the night. Calling to us, they
+said that Don Enrique had told them if they saw us on the road, to say
+that we should keep straight on to El Triunfo, as he had a message for
+us. We had never heard of Don Enrique, and thought there was some error,
+but after supper, the _agente_ handed us a letter which had come that
+afternoon from the gentleman in question. In it we read: "Sir: Mr.
+Ellsworth, of the Rio Michol Rubber Co., Salto, asked me by telephone to
+tell you that he will be waiting for you the 4th of April in La Cruzada,
+and hopes that you will kindly accompany Mrs. Ellsworth as far as
+Mexico, and that, in case she would not find a steamer in Frontera, he
+is going to charter one. Hoping to see you here in Triunfo, and waiting
+for an answer to La Cruzada, I remain, Yours truly, H. Rau." This was
+a gleam of light amid our dark affairs. There we were, with all
+our baggage and instruments, but without carriers, deserted by our
+_arrieros_, and with no opportunity in Tumbala to secure new animals
+or helpers; it was like the voice of a friend, to receive this English
+letter from El Triunfo, and we felt that, if worst came to worst, Don
+Enrique might help us out.
+
+The room in which we slept was filled with stored stuff and two tables.
+On one of these I made my bed, while my companions spread a large
+_petate_ on the floor, and our little indian carrier put down a small
+one for himself, as he declared he should not leave us until morning. He
+had a good supper, and in a fit of generosity, presented Louis with what
+was left of his package of _posole_. With much enthusiasm, he told us of
+an "animal" which he had seen and tried to catch upon the road. From his
+description, it appeared to be an armadillo. Before he lay down on his
+_petate_, he kissed my hand, wished me a good night's rest, and asked my
+good-night blessing. He was happy in possession of a _real's_ worth of
+_aguardiente_, from which, at intervals during the night, he drank.
+Early in the morning, he opened the door, and, looking out, crossed
+himself, and repeated his morning prayer. He then came to _Tatita_
+(little father) to receive his morning's blessing, and hoped that I had
+passed a good night in slumber. He then brought me a _j�cara_ of cool,
+fresh water, after which he urged me to take a sip from his dear bottle.
+Going outside a little time, he returned with two roses, heavy with dew
+and very fragrant, and gave them to me as if they were a gift for kings.
+Very soon, however, his potations got the better of him, and bidding us
+a fond farewell, he started for Hidalgo.
+
+It was my day of fever, and I spent the greater portion of the morning
+on my hard bed, getting up from time to time to try to move the _agente_
+to procure an animal, on which I might make the journey to El Triunfo.
+Finally, in despair, after difficulty in securing a foot-messenger, I
+sent a letter to Don Enrique, asking him to send an animal for my use.
+During the afternoon, a fine mule and a letter came from El Triunfo.
+"Sir: The boy brought me your letter, and I send you a good mule for
+yourself, so we shall talk all the rest when you shall get here. If you
+need more pack-mules I will send them afterwards, as soon as you tell
+me how many you need. Hoping to see you this afternoon, I remain, Yours
+very truly, Henry Rau." The road was down hill, and there were but two
+or three bad spots. I rode through tropical forests, the whole distance,
+with high trees, bound together with a mass of vines, and loaded with
+parasitic or aerial plants. Here and there, rose the largest tree-ferns
+I have ever seen. I was not in the best mood, however, for enjoying the
+journey, and the hour-and-a-quarter seemed like much more. The great
+coffee _finca_ of El Triunfo occupied an irregular valley, the slopes
+of which were covered with thousands of coffee-trees, with their
+magnificent dark green leaves and sweet-scented, white flowers. Three
+hundred and fifty thousand trees made up the plantation, which was one
+of two owned and managed by Se�or Rau. The house was large, and rather
+pretentious, two stories in height, with buildings for cleaning, packing
+and storing coffee on the same terrace, and with a veritable village of
+houses for the indian workmen down below. I received a warm reception
+from the Se�or and his household, who have established here a veritable
+bit of Germany in tropical America. Not only was I myself cared for, but
+I was urged to make no haste in going further, as no steamer would go
+from La Cruzada before the 4th, and it would be easy to reach that
+place in twenty-four hours. So, for several days the hospitable
+plantation-house was my home. Great lines of mules were constantly going
+from here, through to El Salto and La Cruzada, with loads of coffee,
+and coming back with provisions, and the many supplies necessary for an
+establishment of this importance. When the next _mulada_ should appear,
+animals would be sent to Tumbala for my companions and the luggage.
+Curiously, none came for two whole days--a very unusual occurrence--and
+the boys remained prisoners in that dreary town for all that time. For
+my own part, I was thankful to reach a place where a comfortable bed and
+certain meals were to be counted on. My fever left me, but the following
+morning I found myself suffering from swollen jaws; every tooth was
+loose and sore, and it was difficult to chew even the flesh of bananas;
+this difficulty I had lately suffered, whenever in the moist mountain
+district of Pennsylvania, and I feared that there would be no relief
+until I was permanently out of the district of forest-grown mountains.
+Nor was I mistaken, for ten days passed, and we had reached the dry
+central table-land of Mexico, before my suffering ended. One day, while
+we were on the _finca_, considerable excitement was caused by one of the
+Indians working in the field being bitten by a poisonous serpent. The
+man was brought at once to the house, and remedies were applied which
+prevented serious results, although his leg swelled badly. The serpent
+was killed, and measured about five feet in length, having much the
+general appearance of a rattlesnake, but with no rattles. Don Enrique
+says that the most dangerous snake in this district is a little creature
+more brightly colored, with a smaller head, which is less markedly flat,
+and with smaller fangs; he showed us one of these, not more than a foot
+in length, from whose bite a man on the plantation, a year before,
+had died. In telling us of this event, he gave us a suggestion of the
+working of the contract-labor system; the man who died owed one hundred
+and forty pesos of work--almost three years of labor; the _jefe_,
+indeed, had sent the son to work out the debt, but the young man soon
+ran away, and the most diligent effort to recapture him had failed.
+
+[Illustration: CHOL WOMEN; LA TRINIDAD]
+
+Perhaps two hundred persons lived as workmen on the _finca_ of El
+Triunfo. They were, of course, all indians, and were about evenly
+divided between Tzendals and Chols; it was impossible to gather them for
+measurement till Sunday, when they all came to the house and the store.
+It was a day of amusement and recreation for the laborers, a day when
+all of them--men, women, children--drank quantities of liquor. It was
+interesting to watch them as they came up to the store to make their
+little purchases for the week. All were in their best clothing, and
+family groups presented many interesting scenes. On Sundays and fiestas,
+they play _toro_--one man creeping into a framework of light canes
+covered with leather, meant to represent a bull, while others play the
+part of bull-fighters. The Chols present a well-marked type. They are
+short, broad-headed and dark-skinned; their noses are among the
+most aquiline in Mexico. Men, especially those of Tumbala, have a
+characteristic mode of cropping the hair; that on the back of the head
+is cut close, leaving the hair of the forward third of the head longer.
+The men are almost immediately recognized, wherever met, by the
+characteristic _camisa_, made of white cotton, vertically striped with
+narrow lines of pink, which is woven in the Chol towns, and does not
+appear to be used by other Indians.
+
+The doors of the hospitable home at El Triunfo are ever open, and a day
+rarely passes without some traveller seeking shelter and entertainment.
+Spaniards, Mexicans, Germans, Englishmen, Americans, all are welcome,
+and during the few days of our stay, the house was never free of other
+visitors. Among these was Stanton Morrison, famous in Yale's football
+team in '92; he now lives in this district, and has a coffee _finca_
+four hours' ride away.
+
+Finally, at 10:10 Tuesday morning, April 2d, having completed all our
+work, we started from El Triunfo for our last ride of the season. We
+could easily have gone, starting in the early morning, to El Salto
+before night; as it was, Don Enrique planned a different method. We had
+good animals, which he had loaned us, or for which he had arranged for
+us with the muleteers. At two o'clock we reached La Trinidad, where he
+had promised that we should eat the finest meal in the State of Chiapas.
+We found a complete surprise. Trinidad is little more than a _finca_,
+or _rancho_, but it has an _agente_, and quite a population of Chol
+indians. The _agente_ was a decent-looking fellow, active and ambitious;
+he talks a little English, and is something of an amateur photographer.
+His house of poles and mud presented no notable external features, but
+within, it was supplied with furniture so varied and abundant as is rare
+in any part of Mexico. Chairs, rockers, tables, cupboards, washstands,
+all were there; and beds, real beds, which for cleanness were marvels.
+As soon as we entered the house, fresh water and clean towels were
+brought. On the tables were vases of fresh-gathered flowers, in
+quantities, and beautifully arranged. The visible service for all this
+elegance, and for the meals, were two little indian girls not more than
+six or eight years old, neatly dressed, and an indian boy of the same
+size and cleanness. The invisible helpers were buxom indian girls,
+well-dressed and clean, but who never came into the room where we were,
+leaving all carrying, setting of tables, and serving, in the hands of
+these three little servants. There was, indeed, one other person in the
+household--a beautiful girl, slender and refined, whose relation to
+the master I do not know, but who was treated by him as if she were
+a veritable queen, or some lovely flower in the wilderness. Here we
+rested, ate and slept in comfort, and here, when morning came, we paid
+a bill which ordinarily would have seemed large; however, if one finds
+beautiful flowers in the wilderness, he must expect to pay. It was worth
+while paying to enjoy the best sleep, in the best bed, that one had had
+for months.
+
+[Illustration: A CHOL FAMILY; LA TRINIDAD]
+
+[Illustration: CHOLS; LA TRINIDAD]
+
+The _agente_ rode with us in the morning quite a league upon our road,
+to a place which he was clearing for a _milpa_. We had heard so much
+of the horrors of the road to El Salto, that we were prepared for the
+worst. It was not an abrupt descent, as we had expected, but for the
+most part level, over black mud. There were a few ups and downs, and
+there was one limestone hill with tree-ferns and begonias, and all that
+that implies. Much of the way we had a drizzling rain, and everywhere
+the air was hot and heavy. After four hours' riding, we stopped at ten
+to eat a breakfast which we had brought with us, and then rode through
+to El Salto, where we arrived at 12:30. This is the _cabecera_ of the
+district, and the _jefe_ could not understand why we should continue on
+our journey, as the steamer would not leave until the following day.
+Don Enrique, however, had urged us not to stop at El Salto, where he
+insisted the risk from yellow fever was great. He advised us to go on to
+La Cruzada, where he had a house and an agent, and where, he told us,
+we could arrange for sleeping and eating as comfortably, and far more
+safely, than in the town. The distance was short, but the place, in
+truth, was dreary. The landing was at the bottom of a little slope, at
+the upper edge of which stood Don Enrique's place, the store-house of
+the steamship company, the house and barnyard of the manager of the mule
+trains, and one or two unattractive huts. When we arrived, we found that
+the mayor domo had that day resigned, and left the place, going to El
+Salto; before he left, he quarreled with the cook, and she had gone off
+in high dudgeon. Two young employes, left behind, advised us to return
+to El Salto until the time of embarkation. We, however, had left El
+Salto behind us, and had our luggage with us, and were little inclined
+to retrace our steps. After some grumbling, we were supplied with beds,
+but told that the food problem was impossible. After much wheedling,
+coaxing, bribing, and threatening, a woman in one of the huts promised
+to cook something for us, and we had nothing more to do but wait, until
+the steamer should be ready. The chief excitement of the day was when
+the mule trains were driven in, towards evening. With them came a swarm
+of mosquitoes, which absolutely darkened the air. Fortunately they did
+not stay, but after an hour and a half of troubling, disappeared as
+suddenly as they arrived. The river had fallen to that degree that it
+was impossible for our steamer, the Mariscal, to come up to La Cruzada,
+and we learned that it was anchored about a league down the river. A
+flatboat, poled by indians, came up to the landing, ready to receive
+cargo and passengers, and to transfer them to the steamer. In the
+morning, the loading of the flatboat and the getting ready for
+departure, took all our thought. At ten o'clock Mr. and Mrs. Ellsworth,
+with their baby and two servants, appeared in small canoes, which had
+been poled by indians from the plantation, several hours' journey up the
+Michol River. At the last moment, Mr. Ellsworth had decided to accompany
+his party to the city. When everything was loaded, quite promptly,
+at twelve o'clock, the flatboat pushed out from its moorings. Mr.
+Ellsworth's little launch was standing at the landing, and he invited me
+to ride in it, with him and Mrs. Ellsworth and the baby, to the steamer.
+We started off right proudly in the Miriam, but, alas, pride goes before
+destruction, and we had hardly left the heavy flatboat a little behind
+us, when our machinery broke down, and we had to wait until the clumsy
+scow overtook us, when we became common passengers again, and drifted
+down the stream to the Mariscal, passing the Lumeha plantation, an
+American enterprise.
+
+[Illustration: CHOLS RESTING, LA TRINIDAD]
+
+The Mariscal itself was a little steamer, too small for the passengers
+and freight it had to carry. It had no beds nor cabin; it was dirty and
+crowded; it had not food enough to feed the first-class passengers, who
+paid twenty-five pesos each for their short journey. There was, indeed,
+no other class of passengers, only one grade of tickets being sold.
+When complaints were made of the accommodations, or lack of all
+accommodations, the _agente_, who was on the vessel with us, expressed
+surprise, and seemed profoundly hurt. The stream is full of curves and
+bends, is broad, and notably uniform in breadth; it has considerable
+current, and is bordered closely by the tropical forest, except where
+little clearings have been made for _fincas_. Formerly, caimans, or
+alligators, were common, but they have become rare, through the diligent
+hunting to which they have been subjected for supplying skins. Two days
+are usually taken in the journey to Frontera, though it is not a fifteen
+hours' run. Mr. Ellsworth arranged for our going directly through, so
+that, except one stop at a midway station, we made a continuous journey,
+and drew up at Frontera at 9:50 in the morning.
+
+It is a mean little town, but far cleaner than Coatzacoalcos. Real grass
+grows there, and the little plaza is almost a lawn. Last year, when
+yellow fever was so terrible at Coatzacoalcos, and when, even at El
+Salto, there were forty cases, there were none here. The town is hot,
+and during the two days we spent there, our chief effort was to keep
+cool. The steamer, Mexico, appeared upon the 6th, planning to leave the
+same day. A norther came, however, and rendered the bar impassable. In
+the morning, Easter Sunday, the wind had fallen somewhat. We saw the
+little celebration at the church, and, learning that the boat was likely
+to leave at noon, went aboard. At one we started. Sailing down the
+river, we soon found ourselves between the piers, and the moment of
+test had come. At the first thump of the keel upon the sand, we doubted
+whether we should pass the bar; still we kept along with steam full on
+and the bow headed seaward; nine times we struck the sandy bottom, but
+then found ourselves in deeper water, and were again upon the Gulf. The
+Mexico was just as dirty, the food was just as bad, and the crew just as
+unaccommodating, as in 1896, when we had our first experience of her.
+Rather than lie in the stuffy cabin, I took my blanket out on deck, and
+rolled up there for the night. Room was plenty, as there were only a
+score of passengers. When we woke, the boat was standing in the harbor
+of Coatzacoalcos, and we landed to eat a breakfast at the hotel. Through
+the day, we wandered about town, but were again upon the vessel at four
+o'clock. We now numbered about a hundred passengers, and everything was
+crowded. In the company was a comic theatre troupe. The day before,
+a number of the passengers had been seasick; on this occasion,
+three-fourths were suffering, and the decks were a disgusting spectacle.
+Still, fresh air was there, and again I made my bed on deck. In the
+middle of the night, having moved slightly, I felt a sharp and sudden
+pain in my right temple, exactly as if I had rolled upon a sharp, hot
+tack. I had my jacket for a pillow, and thought at first that there
+really was a tack in one of the pockets, and sought, but in vain, to
+find it. Lying down to sleep again, I presently moved my hand over the
+blanket on the deck, and suddenly, again, I felt the sharp, burning
+prick, this time in my thumb. Certain that it could not be a tack this
+time, I brought my hand down forcibly, and, rising, saw by the moonlight
+that I had killed a large, black scorpion. For two hours the stings felt
+like fire, but by morning had ceased to pain me; then I found two or
+three of the other passengers suffering from similar stings, and reached
+the conclusion that the Mexico was swarming with the creatures. At dawn,
+we sighted Vera Cruz, and were soon in the harbor, standing at anchor;
+at eight o'clock, we stood upon the wharf, and our journeys in Indian
+Mexico were ended.
+
+[Illustration: INDIAN HUT; SANTA ANITA]
+
+[Illustration: GUADALUPE; DECEMBER 12]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXVII
+
+CONCLUSION
+
+
+But it was not necessary to go to distant Oaxaca and Chiapas to find
+Mexican indians. On the border of the capital city lie Santa Anita,
+Iztacalco, Mexicalcingo, Ixtapalapa, and a quantity of other villages
+and towns, where one may still find Aztec indians of pure blood,
+sometimes speaking the old language, sometimes wearing characteristic
+dress, and maintaining, to the present, many ancient practices and
+customs. At Santa Anita, for example, one may eat _juiles_ and
+_tamales_, catch a glimpse of indian weddings, and delight his eyes with
+the fresh beauty of the _chinampas_,--wonderful spots of verdure and
+flowers--the floating gardens of the ancient Aztecs. Half an hour, or
+less, in the tram-car takes the traveller to Guadalupe, which may be
+called the heart of Indian Mexico. There, on the rock of Tepeyac, the
+Virgin appeared to Juan Diego; there, in the churches, dedicated in
+honor of that apparition, thousands of indians, from leagues around,
+gather yearly. On December 12, in the crowded streets of Guadalupe,
+groups, fantastically garbed as indians, dance in the Virgin's honor,
+and in their songs and dances, modern though they be, can be found
+suggestions of the olden time. Now and then, one may witness, what I
+saw in December, 1895--a group of indian pilgrims from a distant town,
+singing and dancing to the Virgin, within the great church itself. And
+near the high altar, where thick glass plates are set into the floor,
+letting a dim light into the crypts below, one may see crowds of indians
+rubbing the smooth surface with their diseased parts to effect a cure.
+On the streets of the capital city, one daily sees bands of pure Otomis
+in rags and filth, bringing their loads of charcoal and of corn to
+market. Their ugly dark faces, their strange native dress, their harsh
+language, make on the stranger an impression not easily forgotten.
+
+Reliable figures are wanting as to the number of pure Mexican Indians.
+If the population of the Republic be estimated at fifteen millions, it
+should be safe to say that five millions of this number are indians
+of pure blood, speaking their old language, keeping alive much of the
+ancient life and thought. In some parts of Mexico, it almost seems as if
+what white-blood once existed is now breeding out. The indian of Mexico
+is conservative; he does not want contact with a larger world; his
+village suffices for his needs; he is ready to pay taxes for the sake of
+being let alone, to live in peace, after the way his fathers lived. In
+his bosom there is still hatred of the white man and the _mestizo_, and
+distrust of every stranger. The Chamula outbreak in 1868, and the Maya
+war just ended, are examples of this smouldering hatred. Mexico has a
+serious problem in its Indians; the solution of the problem has been
+attempted in various ways, according to whether the population dealt
+with was Totonac, Yaqui, Maya: it is no small task, to build a nation
+out of an indian population.
+
+Soon after the publication of my "Indians of Southern Mexico," I had
+the pleasure of presenting a copy of the book to President Diaz, and of
+looking through its pictures with him. When we came to the general view
+of Yodocono, and its little lake, tears stood in the old man's eyes as
+he said, "Sir, that was my mother's birthplace, and in her honor I have
+established, at my own expense, two schools, one for boys, and one for
+girls." Looking at the round huts of Chicahuastla, he shivered, and
+remarked: "Ah, sir, but it is cold in Chicahuastla." I replied, "Your
+Excellency, I see that you have been in Chicahuastla." When he saw the
+Zapotec types, from the District of Tehuantepec, he said: "They are fine
+large fellows; they make good soldiers; when I was Governor of Oaxaca, I
+had a body-guard of them." He then told me of the six orphan boys who,
+in memory of his body-guard, he had adopted and educated; he told me
+with pride of the success which the five who still live had made, and
+of the positions they were filling. When he reached the portrait of the
+little Mixtec, carrying a sack of corn, who, with pride, had told me, in
+answer to my question, that his name was Porfirio Diaz, the President
+of the Republic looked long and earnestly at the picture, and I noticed
+that, when we turned the pages, his finger marked the spot where the
+likeness of his name-sake was, and, when the book was finished, before
+closing it, he turned back again, and looked at the little fellow's
+face. At the first Otomi portrait, he had said: "Ah, sir, but my schools
+will change the Otomis."
+
+It would be pleasant to have faith in President Diaz' solution of the
+Otomi problem, but to me it seems doubtful. Of course, I recall with
+pleasure my visit to the boys' school at San Nicolas Panotla. It was
+interesting to see those little Tlaxcalan fellows solve problems in
+alligation and percentage, in bonds and mortgages; but it is doubtful
+whether any of them, in actual life, will have to deal with blending
+coffees, or with selling bonds, and cutting coupons. Still, from such
+indian towns great men have come in the past, and great men will come in
+the future. Benito Juarez, who laid the foundations on which Diaz has
+so magnificently built, was a pure-blood Zapotec. From the Aztecs, the
+Tlaxcalans, Mixtecs, Zapotecs and Mayas, we may hope much in the future.
+They were races of achievement in the past, and the monuments of their
+achievement still remain. But that the Otomi, the Triqui, or the Mixe,
+should be made over by the schools is doubtful. Personally, I feel that
+the prosperity of Mexico rests more upon the indian blood than on any
+other element of national power. That schools will do much to train the
+more gifted tribes perhaps is true. But there are indians, and indians,
+in Mexico.
+
+
+
+  GLOSSARY OF SPANISH AND INDIAN WORDS
+
+  abusos.   abuses, disturbances.
+  adios.   adieu, good-bye.
+  agente.   agent.
+  agua.   water.
+  agua bendita.   blessed water.
+  agua miel.   lit. honey water, the unfermented juice of the magu�y.
+  aguardiente.   a spirituous liquor.
+  aguas frescas.   refreshing drinks.
+  ahuacate.   a fruit, the alligator pear.
+  aje, or axe.   an insect; a greasy mass, yielding a lacquer-like lustre.
+  alcalde.   a town judge.
+  arbol.   tree.
+  arriero.   a convoyer of loaded mules or horses.
+  atole.   a corn gruel.
+  autorizada.   authorized, having authority.
+  axolotl.   a water salamander, with peculiar life-history.
+  ayatl, or ayate.   a carry-cloth.
+  barranca.   a gorge, or gully.
+  bruja.   witch.
+  brujer�a.   witchcraft.
+  burro.   ass.
+  cabecera.   the head-town of a district.
+  cafe.   coffee.
+  caiman.   a reptile much like an alligator.
+  camar�n.   shrimp.
+  camisa.   shirt.
+  cantera, cantero.   a water-jar, or pitcher.
+  cargador.   carrier.
+  carreta.   cart.
+  carretero.   a carter.
+  cascar�n.   an eggshell filled with bits of cut paper.
+  catal�n.   a wine, named from a Spanish town.
+  cenote.   a cave with water.
+  centavo.   a coin, the one-hundredth part of a peso; a cent.
+  chac mool.   a stone figure, found at Chichen Itza, Yucatan.
+  chalupa.   a boat-shaped crust with meat or vegetables in it.
+  chamara.   a blanket for wearing.
+  champurrado.   a mixture, as of atole and chocolate.
+  chapapote.   chewing-gum.
+  chicha.   an intoxicant made from sugar-cane.
+  chicle.   chewing-gum.
+  chinampa.   "floating garden," a garden patch.
+  chirimiya.   a shrill musical instrument, somewhat
+  like a fife or flageolet.
+  chirimoya.   the custard-apple.
+  cigarro.   cigarette.
+  cincal�tl, cincalote.   granary.
+  clar�n.   a bird, with clear note.
+  cochero.   coachman.
+  color�n.   a tree.
+  comiteco.   a spirits made at Comitan.
+  Conquista.   Conquest.
+  copal.   a gum, much used as incense.
+  coro.   loft.
+  corral.   an enclosure for animals.
+  costumbre.   custom.
+  cot�n, cotones.   a man's upper garment, a sort of poncho.
+  cuartel.   barracks.
+  cuezcom�tl, cuezcomate.   granary.
+  cura.   parish priest.
+  curato.   parish house.
+  danza.   dance.
+  doctrina.   doctrine, catechism.
+  don.   Mr., used only when the Christian name of a person is spoken.
+  dulce.   sweet, sweetmeat.
+  dulcero.   maker or seller of sweets.
+  dulceria.   sweetmeat factory.
+  enagua.   woman's skirt.
+  enchilada.   a fried tortilla with chili and cheese.
+  feria.   fair.
+  fiesta.   festival.
+  finca.   farm, plantation.
+  firma.   signature.
+  fiscal.   fiscal officer,
+  frijol, frijoles.   bean, beans,
+  golondrina.   swallow,
+  gramatica.   grammar.
+  gringo.   somewhat derisive term applied to foreigners,
+  especially Americans.
+  guardia.   guard.
+  hacienda.   a country-place.
+  haciendado, haciendero.   the owner of an hacienda.
+  hennequ�n.   a plant producing fibre, sisal hemp.
+  hermita.   a retired shrine.
+  herrer�a.   smithy, forge, ironworks.
+  h'men.   conjuror.
+  huehuetes.   the old ones.
+  huehuetl, huehuete.   the ancient upright drum.
+  huerfano.   orphan.
+  huip�l, huipili.   a woman's waist garment.
+  huipilili.   a woman's waist garment, worn under the huip�l.
+  idioma.   idiom, language.
+  incomunicado.   solitary, not allowed communication.
+  itinerario.   itinerary.
+  itztli.   obsidian.
+  ixtli.   fibre from the magu�y and cactus.
+  jac�l.   a hut.
+  jarabe.   a popular dance.
+  j�cara.   a gourd-cup, or vessel.
+  jonote.   a tree.
+  Jornada.   a day's march.
+  juez.   judge.
+  ke'esh.   a votive figure.
+  ladino.   a mestizo, a person not Indian.
+  ladr�n, ladrones.   thief, thieves.
+  liana.   vine.
+  licenciado.   lawyer.
+  lima.   a fruit, somewhat like an insipid orange.
+  lindas.   pretty (girls).
+  llano.   a grassy plain.
+  machete.   a large knife.
+  maestro.   teacher, a master in any trade.
+  magu�y.   a plant, the century plant or agave, yielding pulque.
+  mai, pelico.   tobacco, mixed with chili and lime.
+  malac�tl, malacate.   spindle-whorl.
+  malinche.   malinche.
+  mam�y.   a fruit, orange flesh and brown exterior.
+  manta.   cotton-cloth, a woman's dress.
+  ma�ana.   to-morrow.
+  mapachtl.   a small animal, perhaps the raccoon or badger.
+  mapaho.   beating-sticks, for cleaning cotton.
+  mayores.   chiefs, village elders, police.
+  medio.   six centavos.
+  meson.   a house for travellers.
+  mescal.   a spirits, made from an agave.
+  mestizo.   a person of mixed blood.
+  metate.   stone upon which corn is ground.
+  milagro.   miracle.
+  milpa.   cornfield.
+  mogote.   a mound or tumulus.
+  mole.   a stew, highly seasoned with chili.
+  mole prieto.   black mole.
+  moral.   a tree, mulberry.
+  mozo.   a young man, a servant.
+  mudo.   mute, dumb.
+  mulada.   a mule train.
+  mu�eco.   doll, figure.
+  municipio.   town, town-government, town-house.
+  nacimiento.   an arrangement of figures and grotto-work,
+  made at Christmastide.
+  nada.   nothing.
+  nagu�l.   conjuror.
+  negrito.   (diminutive) negro.
+  nublina.   mist, fog.
+  ocote.   pine-tree, splinter of pine.
+  otro.   other.
+  padre.   father, priest.
+  padrecito.   priest.
+  pa�s.   country, esp. one's native town.
+  panela.   sugar in cake or loaf.
+  papaya.   a fruit.
+  pastorela.   a drama relative to the Nativity.
+  pastores.   shepherds.
+  patio.   inside court of house.
+  pelico, mai.   tobacco, with chili and lime.
+  peso.   a money denomination, one hundred centavos, one dollar.
+  petate.   mat.
+  pinolillo.   a species of tick.
+  pinto.   a disease, spotted skin.
+  pita.   a fibre.
+  pitero.   a fifer.
+  pito.   fife.
+  plaza.   town square.
+  portales.   a building with corridor in front.
+  posol, posole.   corn prepared to carry on journey, for mixing with
+water.
+  prefecto.   prefect.
+  presidente.   president.
+  principales.   principal men, councillors.
+  pueblito.   small pueblo, village.
+  pulque.   an intoxicant, made from magu�y sap.
+  quichiquemil.   a woman's upper garment.
+  rancho.   a country-place.
+  ranchito.   a small ranch.
+  rebozo.   a woman's garment, a wrap or light shawl.
+  regidor.   alderman.
+  remedio.   remedy.
+  sangre.   blood.
+  santo, santito.   saint.
+  se�or.   sir, gentleman.
+  se�ora.   madam, lady.
+  se�orita.   Miss, young woman.
+  serape.   a blanket, for wearing.
+  sindico.   recorder.
+  soltero.   an unmarried man.
+  sombrero.   hat.
+  subida.   ascent.
+  tabla.   board.
+  tamales.   dumplings of corn-meal.
+  tambour.   drum.
+  tatita.   papa.
+  tepache.   a fermented drink.
+  teponastl, teponaste.   the ancient horizontal drum.
+  tienda.   store, shop.
+  tierra caliente.   hot country.
+  tigre.   tiger, jaguar.
+  tinaja.   water-jar.
+  topil.   a messenger or police.
+  toro.   bull.
+  tortillas.   corn-cakes, cooked on a griddle.
+  tortuga.   turtle.
+  tsupakwa.   dart-thrower.
+  ule.   rubber.
+  vaca.   cow.
+  v�monos.   come on, we are going.
+  viejos.   old.
+  vomito.   yellow fever.
+  xalama.   a tree.
+  xt�l, xtoles.   a dancer, or dancers (see M�rida, narrative).
+  zacate, sacate.   hay, fodder.
+
+
+
+
+ITINERARY
+
+
+The expedition of 1896 was preliminary. We went by rail from the City
+of Mexico to Oaxaca, capital of the state of the same name. Thence, we
+journeyed by horse through the states of Oaxaca and Chiapas, to the city
+of Guatemala, entering the Republic of Guatemala at Nenton. The return
+journey was made by rail to the Pacific port of San Jose, steamer to
+Salina Cruz, rail to Coatzacoalcos, steamer to Vera Cruz, and rail to
+the City of Mexico. Only the portion of this journey between Oaxaca and
+Nenton is here described, the rest not lying in Indian Mexico. The City
+of Mexico was headquarters for the work in 1897-98. A trip was made by
+rail from there to Dos Rios, to measure and photograph the Otomis of
+Huixquilucan, in the state of Mexico. Thence we went to Patzcuaro by
+rail, and studied the Tarascans in the villages about Lake Patzcuaro,
+visiting these by canoe-trips. We then made a trip on horseback to
+Uruapan (then without rail connection), returning by some important
+indian towns. After returning to Mexico, we visited the states of
+Tlaxcala and Puebla. In and around the City of Tlaxcala, we secured
+our Tlaxcalan subjects. At Cuauhtlantzinco, we worked upon Aztecs. Our
+experiences at this large town of Puebla are not described, as Bandelier
+has already rendered the place familiar, and we ourselves have written
+of it elsewhere. With these two peoples, we made our first essays
+at bust-making. After returning to Mexico, we went by rail, on the
+Guadalajara branch of the Mexican Central, to Negrete. From there, by
+coach (there being then no railroad) to Zamora. Thence, we struck, on
+horseback, through the Tarascan territory, across to Patzcuaro. On the
+way, we secured our full series of Tarascan busts, at the Once Pueblos.
+By rail, we went from Patzcuaro to Dos Rios, to secure our lacking busts
+of Otomis at Huixquilucan. In the second field expedition, January to
+March 1899, we worked entirely in the state of Oaxaca. At first a trip
+was made, by horse, from Oaxaca into the Mixteca Alta, where Mixtecs and
+Triquis were studied. Again starting from Oaxaca, we traveled over our
+old trails of 1896, through the mountains to Tehuantepec, returning
+by the high-road in common use. Zapotecs were studied at Mitla and
+Tehuantepec, and the Mixes, Juaves, and Chontals in various towns and
+villages. The season's work closed by our study, at and near Cuicatlan,
+of the Cuicatecs. At this town, too, we began to work upon Chinantecs.
+In the third field expedition, during the early months of 1900, we
+visited seven populations, making our regular study upon six of them. To
+fill a week that would otherwise have been lost, we made a pedestrian
+trip through the interesting indian towns on the slopes of Malintzi.
+Then, from Cuicatlan as a center, we made two journeys--one to San Juan
+Zautla and San Pedro Soochiapan, to examine Chinantecs; the other to
+Coixtlahuaca, for seeing Chochos. From Cuicatlan, we struck north by
+rail to San Antonio, and, by coach to Teotitlan del Camino and by horse
+beyond, penetrated to the great Mazatec town of Huauhtla. Chinantecs,
+Chochos, and Mazatecs are tribes of Oaxaca. Leaving that state, we
+traveled by rail to Tulancingo. From there, by coach and on horseback,
+we visited Otomi, Aztec, Tepehua and Totonac towns in the states of
+Puebla and Hidalgo. With the field season of 1901, our work in Indian
+Mexico ended. It was pursued in three separated areas. From the City of
+Mexico, we went by rail to Tampico. From that point, a journey by canoe
+and horse enabled us to see the Huaxtecs of the state of Vera Cruz.
+Returning to Tampico, a trip by steamer across the gulf brought us to
+Yucatan. Progreso and M�rida were visited, and our work was done upon
+the Mayas living near the town of Tekax. A second trip on the gulf
+brought us to Coatzacoalcos, whence the railroad was used to Tehuantepec
+and San Geronimo. From the latter point, an ox-cart journey of ten
+nights, across the states of Oaxaca and Chiapas, brought us to Tuxtla
+Gutierrez. By horse we continued through Chiapas to El Salto, where we
+took steamer for Frontera. From there, by steamer to Vera Cruz and then
+by rail, we traveled to the City of Mexico. Zoques, Tzotzils, Tzendals,
+and Chols were studied in this portion of the journey.
+
+
+
+
+APPENDIX
+
+STARR IN OLD MEXICO
+
+
+Oaxaca, Mexico, March 1.--Prof. Frederick Starr, of the University
+of Chicago, is deep in the midst of his savages. He is manipulating
+primitive town governments, wielding the authority of federal and state
+governments, county police, and that of the clergy as well. He is
+threatening, cajoling, clapping in jail, when necessary, and in general
+conquering his series of strange nations. I found him doing all this,
+and more, in a little native village fifty miles from the city of
+Oaxaca, Feb. 2nd. The fat little man was complete master of the Zapotec
+town of Mitla, far distant from the end of the last of the railroads,
+a town famous for its ruins. He bustled about like a captain in a war
+haste, dressed in a massive Indian sombrero, from which a white string
+floated picturesquely behind, a necktie of slim, dusty black, which
+seemed not to have been unknotted for many a day, a shirt less
+immaculate than the one he may wear at the entertainment shortly to
+be given him in London, and no coat. The professor's trousers are not
+Indian. They are farm trousers, of an original type, with double seat
+for the saddle.
+
+The professor's blood was up. A grand native feast--in which drunken
+dances, bull-fights, and a state of accumulated irresponsibility are the
+rule--had delayed him three days. The Indians could no more be measured
+and "busted"--as the professor calls the making of plaster casts--than
+could the liquor they had drunk. After three days of pleading,
+threatening, and berating, in which orders from every government and
+church official in the country, from lowest to highest, had failed,
+Prof. Starr seized the black-bearded and wiry president of the town
+council, the chief potentate of the reeling set, called him a drunken
+scoundrel, threatened in deep seriousness to imprison every man in the
+town, and finally won his point--but not until the feast was done. When
+feasts are over, the people are kindly, suave, gracious.
+
+Then the professor corralled those he wanted. He was to measure for
+scientific purposes 100 of the Indians, in the order in which they
+chanced to present themselves. After such wheedling as it must have
+taken infinite practice to acquire--pattings of the Zapotec
+back, hugging of the men, chucking the children, with elaborate
+explanations--the thing "took" and the people fell into the spirit of
+it. The jail was the only accessible building, and was strangely empty.
+It was of adobe, a jail of one room, with a dirt floor. There were no
+windows, only the single barred door.
+
+From every cane-walled, thatched, tropical hut that helps to make the
+irregular cluster around the central plaza and its adjoining bull ring
+they came, if not to be measured, to see. They were driven by the
+highest of the town authorities--for every element of the population
+waited on the bidding of the little sugar-tongued professor from the
+north--one by one into the jail, and the rest curiously watched. The
+measuring was done without undressing, but the "busting" was the point
+of chief interest. Five representative specimens had been carefully
+selected for this purpose. They were won slowly, by the glitter of 75
+cents of Mexican silver. In some towns, only 50 cents was required, and
+in others, $1. The smirking Indian, with his wildness hidden away, or
+only peeping from his eye, entered. He disrobed with no shame. He was
+put flat on the floor, face down, on a little piece of matting. At
+this stage some objected. Then the Anglo-Saxon was down on the floor,
+wheedling, talking such sweetness as can be spoken without silliness
+only in the Spanish tongue.
+
+The victim finally consents. Then the Mexican plaster worker, who has
+followed the caravan from its start, goes to work. He makes a cast of
+the back of the head and shoulders, and the Indian is turned over,
+face up. Another cast of the breast and neck and chin is made, and yet
+another of the front half of the head and the face, with little tubes
+for breathing sticking through it. The Indian has grunted, snorted,
+laughed and squirmed, but he has been made to understand that he must
+be still. That great 75 cents is held always over him, and the thing is
+accomplished.
+
+During all the process, the crowd of Indians about and in the jail was
+eager-eyed and astonished. The women wear odd woolen, blanket-like
+skirts of red or black, folded in two great plaits down the front. The
+dress does not reach the ankles, and the feet are bare. They carry the
+baby on the back, wound in the rebozo, with its bare legs straddling
+her and sticking out. The men wear a sandal quite different from the
+ordinary Mexican footgear.
+
+Of the 100 that were to be measured, Jose was one. Jose was of a better
+family, a character in the town, and proud. He rebelled. This breach of
+the professor's authority could not be allowed. Jose was summoned by the
+president of the town, the honeyed, affable "Se�or Presidente," the same
+who had been called the drunken scoundrel, now accommodating, a true and
+emotional friend. Jose sent a thousand excuses, and finally defiance.
+
+"That man," cried the professor, showing his writ of authority from the
+_jefe politico_ of the district, "I order to be arrested."
+
+Jose did not flee. He was found next morning in the bull ring riding a
+bull. He was arrested by the Chicagoan's orders, and taken to jail. He
+was peremptorily ordered by the professor to appear for the measurement.
+He escaped, and again defied the powers. He was again caught, and it was
+explained to him by the president that this man of might from the beyond
+had sworn to drag Jose with him all the way across this wild country
+slowly to Tehuantepec, thence back to the city of Oaxaca, where the
+state authorities would deal most painfully with him. And this, indeed,
+in mighty manner and impressively, had the "man from the beyond" sworn
+to do. Jose came and was measured, and I afterward saw him calling to
+the professor to come and take a jolly drink out of the gourd he was
+shaking at him, in the manner of a comrade.
+
+In the afternoon, the work being done, the civilities and sugared
+conduct must be continued, with a view to future visits. The professor
+wanted to enter the church, which, though modern, stands in the
+middle of one of the mysterious ruins. The church was locked, and the
+mayor-domo not to be found.
+
+"But I must photograph a strange picture you have in there."
+
+"The mayor-domo is drunk, at your service, my most excellent friend,"
+replied the president, sympathetically. "I am sorry, but he got under
+the influence three days ago at the beginning of the feast, and he has
+slept ever since. Ah, the mayor-domo is sleeping now, my excellent
+friend, and he has the keys."
+
+"You shall send a boy into the tower to ring the bell and wake the
+mayor-domo," cried the professor.
+
+The crowd sat on the stone steps, the bell was pealed, and at last the
+church was opened, and the picture photographed.
+
+The procession then moved to the top of an ancient pyramid, in which
+tombs have been opened, and bones and gold ornaments found. The
+professor dashed through all the tunnels, with the government after
+him, before mounting to the top. On top a strange conversation was held
+between the professor and the president and secretary. They appealed to
+this northern man, who seemed to have all earthly authority back of him,
+to grant them one longed-for boon. Would he not please speak, when he
+returned to the capital, to the minister of encouragement, that he send
+them a brass band! They wanted to welcome northern visitors to the ruins
+with modern music.
+
+"You have great power. You need but to ask of those in Mexico and the
+band will come. Most beloved friend, oh, most excellent professor from
+the far north, give to us a brass band!" And the professor promised to
+speak to Minister Leal about it. Then, too, the beastly state government
+was dragging some of their precious ruins away to put in a museum. Would
+the professor please have the kindness to stop this? The professor
+promised to do what he could, and he was hugged and blessed and patted
+by the simple people.
+
+Prof. Starr began his ethnological studies to westward of Oaxaca. Mitla
+is eastward. In the west, he visited two tribes--the Mixtecas and the
+Triquis. The latter are a branch of the former, but much different,
+living in round bamboo huts, surprisingly like those of some African
+tribes. He secured two excellent casts of the Triquis, and three of the
+Mixtecas. He intended to take five of each tribe he visited, but his
+plaster failed to arrive. He studies the languages, also, as he goes,
+and finds many varying dialects, from each of which he secures a
+test vocabulary of 200 words. He is now approaching the Mixes, the
+"cannibals." All the City of Mexico papers laugh at the idea of his
+encountering the slightest danger, and the professor himself scoffs at
+it. He believes some of the Mixes have, within forty years, eaten human
+flesh, but he says he is certain they are harmless now.
+
+CHARLES F. EMBREE. [From _The Chicago Record_: March 24, 1899.]
+
+
+
+
+THE PURPLE SPOT ON MAYA BABIES
+
+
+When I was in Yucatan in 1901 the parish priest of Texax told me that it
+was said that every pure blood Maya Indian has a violet or purple spot
+on his back, in the sacral region. He stated that this spot was called
+by the native name, uits, "bread," and that it was vulgar or insulting
+to make reference to it. I at once examined three Mayas of pure blood--a
+boy of ten years and two adult males--but found no trace of such a
+spot. I concluded that the presence of the spot might be an infantile
+character, as it is among the Japanese, but at that time I had no
+opportunity to examine Maya babies.
+
+Dr. Baelz, a German physician, who has spent many years in Japan, long
+ago called attention to the existence of such spots on Japanese infants.
+The spots described by him were of a blue or purple color, were located
+upon the back (especially in the sacral region), and were variable in
+form and size. They were temporary, disappearing at from two to eight
+years of age. The occurrence of these infantile color blotches was so
+common in Japan as to be almost characteristic of the race.
+
+In time, other students reported similar spots on other Asiatic babies,
+and on non-Asiatic babies of Mongolian or Mongoloid peoples. Chinese,
+Annamese, Coreans, Greenland Eskimos, and some Malays are now known to
+have such spots. Sacral spots have also been reported among Samoans and
+Hawaiians.
+
+Practically, all these people belong to the great yellow race, as
+defined by De Quatrefages, and are, if not pure representatives of that
+race, mixed bloods, in part, of it. Baelz and some other writers have,
+therefore, gone so far as to consider the purple sacral spot a mark
+peculiar to that race, and to believe its occurrence proof of Mongolian
+origin. They have asked whether the spot occurs among American Indians,
+and would consider its occurrence evidence of an Asiatic origin for
+our native tribes. Satisfactory observations had not been made. Baelz
+himself found two cases among Vancouver Island Indians.
+
+In my recent trip to Mexico I planned to look for this spot among
+several Indian tribes. Out of six populations that I expected to visit I
+really saw but two--the Aztecs and the Mayas. I do not believe that
+the sacral spot exists among Aztecs. I made no search, because
+Aztec friends, who would be sure to know, all agreed in denying its
+occurrence. Among the Mayas, the case is different. In the little Maya
+town of Palenque I examined all the pure blood babies. The back of the
+first little creature bared for my inspection bore a clearly defined,
+dark blue-purple spot, just where it might be expected. The spot was
+almost two inches wide and nearly three-fourths of an inch high. The
+child was a boy of eight months. A brother, two years old, showed no
+trace of the spot, but the mother says it was formerly well defined.
+
+Every one of the seven pure Maya babies, below ten months old, in the
+town was purple-spotted. A pair of boy twins, two months old, were
+marked in precisely the same place with pale blue-purple spots, of the
+same size and form. In one boy of ten months the spot seemed to be
+disappearing and was represented by three ill-defined and separated
+blotches. In the village, there were three babies of suitable age, but
+of mixed--Spanish-Maya--blood; no one of these showed any trace of the
+colored spot. We may say, then, that in Palenque every Maya baby below
+ten months of age was sacral spotted, and that no Mestizo baby was.
+
+Does this prove that the Mayas are Asiatics by ancestry? The daily press
+asserts that I make that claim; it is mistaken. I am free to say I don't
+know what to do with my spotted Maya babies. I presume that Baelz will
+cousin them with his little Japanese.
+
+FREDERICK STARR. From _The Chicago Tribune_: January 11, 1903.
+
+
+
+  INDEX
+
+  abandoned river course, 374.
+  acacia, 97, 216.
+  Acala, 48, 361.
+  Agua Bendita (Chiapa), 44, 348.
+  Agua Bendita (Mex.), 64.
+  agua miel, 61.
+  aguardiente, 255.
+  Aguazotepec, 240.
+  aje, 45: insect, 46; 79.
+  Ajuno, 76, 84, 107.
+  Akxotla, 191.
+  alcaldes indios, 357.
+  alligators, 277, 290.
+  Ancona, Bishop, 300.
+  antiquities, 116, 223, 230, 239, 288, 345.
+  ant--foraging, 289;
+  --honey, 190.
+  apparition of the Virgin, 395.
+  Aranza, 82.
+  arbol huerfano, 196.
+  arriero--tardy, 271;
+  --unreliable, 358;
+  --abandons us, 385.
+  Arroyo--Jefe, 247.
+  Atla, 245;
+  carry-sacks, 256;
+  costume, 256;
+  witchcraft, 256.
+  Atlihuitzia--Santa Maria, 195.
+  axolotl, 64.
+  ayate, 58, 267, 271.
+  Ayutla, 23, 149.
+  Aztec, 242, 279, 281, 283, 285, 397;
+  breakfast, 196.
+
+  babies--carrying, 267;
+  --care of, 57.
+  bamboo, 289.
+  band--Huauhtla, 237;
+  --honors us, 124.
+  bandolier, 318.
+  Barela, Sr. and Sra., 189.
+  bark-paper, 245, 246, 268.
+  Baron, 293, 320.
+  barranca, 190,191, 214, 280, 363.
+  Barrios--Pedro, 230.
+  basalt, 196, 249.
+  battle of flowers, 321.
+  begonia, 246.
+  Belen, 194.
+  bells--pottery, 112.
+  Benito Juarez--steamer, 293.
+  Bernal Diaz, 91.
+  bishop--M�rida, 300.
+  blackflies, 343.
+  Blanco--Juan, 303, 316.
+  blessing--a mother's, 111.
+  bloom--trees, 340, 364.
+  Boca del Rio--rancho, 168.
+  books--Mixe, 155;
+  --Mixtec, 141;
+  Zapotec, 165.
+  bowls--calabash, 353.
+  boxes--scarce, 370.
+  boy--work of, 35, 37;
+  --and iguana, 54.
+  breech-clout, 344.
+  bridge--covered, 77;
+  --of vines, 32, 207.
+  Brinton, 374.
+  bromelias, 22, 27, 126, 154, 199, 207, 219, 232.
+  bruher�a, 246, 256, 376.
+  bull met, 214.
+  burning fields, 374, 376.
+  bust-making, 65, 99, 104, 146, 234, 382.
+  de Butrie--M. and Mme., 235, 236, 237.
+
+  cactus, 8, 11, 181, 182, 217, 329;
+  --pitahaya, 96.
+  Cahuantzi--Gov. Prospero, 85, 94, 193.
+  caimans, 290.
+  cairn, 218.
+  calabashes, 314.
+  caladium, 201, 249.
+  calandria, 334.
+  Calistro--Antonio, 61.
+  camalpa, 191.
+  camar�n, 276.
+  Camotlan, 32, 155.
+  camp--traveller's, 178.
+  Campeche, 306, 355;
+  --banks, 295.
+  canal, 291.
+  Cancuc, 365, 366, 371, 374;
+  --outbreak, 374;
+  --reception, 375;
+  --music, 376;
+  --dress, 377.
+  Candaleria--Maria, 374.
+  canoes, 275, 289, 360;
+  --Tarascan, 68;
+  --travel, 277;
+  --empty, 292.
+  Canton--Gov. Francisco, 300, 301, 355.
+  Capacuaro, 78, 80.
+  Carapan, 104.
+  Carizal, 342.
+  carnival, 239, 317, 318, 321, 324.
+  Carrera, 52.
+  carretero, 333, 334, 342, 343;
+  --camping, 338.
+  carriers, 53, 54.
+  --small, but devoted, 384,386;
+  --trouble, 206.
+  carry-frame, 243.
+  carts, 95, 333.
+  cart-road, 45, 48, 139, 342.
+  Carvajal, 179.
+  cascades, 262.
+  cascarones, 239.
+  Castle, Dr., 164, 165, 170, 328, 329.
+  Castolo--Zapotec boy, 35, 159.
+  cattle, among Juaves, 168;
+  --loading, 294;
+  driving, 348.
+  cave, near Comitan, 50;
+  --witch's, near Atla, 256;
+  --near Pantepec, 269;
+  near Tekax, 313, 314.
+  cave formations, 315.
+  cave--hat-makers, 224.
+  celebration--St. Martin's eve, 62.
+  cemetery--visits to, 165.
+  Cempoalteca--family, 92.
+  cempoalxochil, 257.
+  cenotes, 297, 316.
+  chacalacca, 334, 343.
+  chacmool, 319.
+  chalcedony, 38, 139.
+  chamara, 366, 367.
+  champurado, 196.
+  Chamula, 45, 365, 366, 367, 371;
+  --outbreak, 366, 396.
+  chapapote, 288, 291, 292.
+  chavacanes, 287.
+  Checheb, 366.
+  Cheran, 78, 82, 106.
+  chert, 129.
+  Chiapa, 45, 353, 360, 361, 364;
+  --lacquer, 45.
+  Chiapanecs, 361.
+  Chiapas, 293, 340;
+  --Indians, 44.
+  Chicago Record, 405;
+  --Tribune, 411.
+  Chicahuastla, 131, 396;
+  --an afternoon in, 133.
+  chicha, 377.
+  Chichen-Itza, 318.
+  Chila, 7, 10.
+  Chilchota, 98.
+  child--deserted, 136;
+  --grateful, 164.
+  Chilon, 379.
+  chinampas, 395.
+  Chinantecs, 210;
+  --land of, 212.
+  chirimiya--Mitla, 18;
+  --Los Reyes, 91.
+  Chochos, 218, 226;
+  hats, 224.
+  Chols, 380, 389;
+  --dress, 389;
+  --laborers, 384;
+  --type, 389.
+  Cholula, 108.
+  Chontals, 173;
+  --type, 175.
+  Christmas celebration, 71.
+  church of the thieves, 63.
+  la Cienega, 349.
+  cincalote, 60.
+  circus, 42.
+  Citala, 378.
+  Citlaltepec, 277, 279.
+  clays, 128.
+  cleanliness of person, 297.
+  climate--results, 306.
+  cloud-effects, 196;
+  --lake, 26;
+  --cataract, 28.
+  coach--unreliable, 228, 229;
+  --well-loaded, 315;
+  --fictitious, 331.
+  Coatlan, 34, 157.
+  Coatzacoalcos, 293, 325, 326, 331, 351, 393.
+  cochero--troublesome, 242.
+  cockroaches, 378.
+  cocoa palms, 169, 181.
+  cocoles, 287.
+  coffee, 155;
+  --plantation, 387;
+  --essence, 204.
+  Coixtlahuaca, 220, 224, 226;
+  --hat-making, 224;
+  --celebration, 224.
+  color-massing of flowers, 212.
+  color�n tree, 268.
+  comales, 127.
+  Comitan, 51.
+  comiteco, 51.
+  condolence--visit, 174.
+  conglomerate, 181, 182, 377.
+  Conkal, 297.
+  contract-labor system, 384, 388.
+  convent-church, 140.
+  cook-house, 88.
+  cooking, 339.
+  copal, 252.
+  Cordoba woman, 217, 227.
+  Cordova--Javier, 128, 135.
+  corpse rejected, 189.
+  Cortez' trail, 196.
+  cosmopolitan group, 325.
+  costumbre-annual,--Otomi, 250;
+  --Totonac, 252.
+  costume, 242;
+  --Juave, 169;
+  --Mazateco, 221;
+  --Mixtec, 127;
+  --Otomi, 58, 258;
+  --Totonac, 252;
+  --Tzotzil, 49;
+  --Zapotec, 40, 177.
+  cotones--see costume.
+  cotton--beating, 202.
+  counterfeiters in Tlaxcala, 94.
+  couple--mysterious, 354.
+  Coyotepec, 113.
+  crabs, 326.
+  Cristobal martyr boy, 195.
+  crosses, 269.
+  crucified child, 366.
+  la Cruzada, 387, 391;
+  --unsettled conditions, 391.
+  Cuaquitepec, 377, 378.
+  Cuauhtepec, 251.
+  cuezcomate, 88, 190.
+  Cuezcomate--the, 189.
+  Cuicatlan, 181, 198, 215, 227.
+  Culin--Mr., 263, 269.
+  Cuquila, 129, 137.
+  customs-house, 295.
+  cycle superstition, 139.
+  cypress, 139.
+
+  dance wands, 257.
+  dancers, 317, 325.
+  danza, 265, 268;
+  --de la Conquista, 30;
+  --de los Negros, 287;
+  --de los mestizos, 325.
+  date palm, 126.
+  deaf-mutism, 48, 49, 79, 205.
+  December, 12, 395.
+  deer, 43.
+  deformity, 155.
+  Diaz--President Porfirio, ix, 396, 397.
+  Diego--Juan, 395.
+  disaster to plates, 365.
+  distance marks, 309.
+  distilleries, 51, 315.
+  disturbance--village, 202.
+  Do�a Cecilia, 293.
+  Dos Rios, 56.
+  doves, 219, 288.
+  dragon-tree, 246.
+  drinking, 207.
+  drunken officials, 24, 25, 29, 71, 72, 80, 144, 201;
+  --visitor, 335.
+  ducks, 278.
+  dulces, 314.
+  dynamiting streams, 251, 360.
+
+  eagle, 166, 219.
+  earthquake, 137, 138;
+  --Tehuantepec, 161;
+  Papalo, 183.
+  echo, 90.
+  eggs, 159.
+  Ellsworth Mr., 385, 392.
+  Embree Mr., 410.
+  enagua, see costume.
+  enchiladas, 286.
+  Esperanza mule-line, 7.
+  Espindola, Sr., 331, 332, 333.
+  Espinola--Macario, 120.
+  Etla, 116.
+  Expeditions, vii.
+  Eurosa--Sr., 246.
+  Eustasio, our carretero, 333, 334, 336, 340, 341, 344, 347, 348,
+  349, 352, 379.
+  excitement--political, 191, 193.
+  exorbitant charges, 8, 9;
+  --Ixcuintepec, 33;
+  --Xalapa, 174;
+  --Tequixistlan, 175;
+  --Tulancingo, etc., 241;
+  --Huachinango, 243;
+  --Huehuetla, 271.
+
+  faja--see costume.
+  fans used in dance, 318.
+  feather-work, 82.
+  Feb. 5, celebration, 224.
+  female beauty, 352.
+  feria at Comitan, 51.
+  ferns, 23, 27, 44, 154, 199, 207, 249.
+  Fernandez--Leandro, x.
+  Fernandez--Sr., 320, 323.
+  fever, 151, 387.
+  fiesta--San Marcos, 31.
+  fishes, 317.
+  fishing--night, 265;
+  --handnets, 266;
+  dynamite, 360.
+  flight of the Virgin, 196.
+  floats in procession, 319.
+  flora, 201, 249, 262, 296;
+  --contrast on two slopes, 23, 154, 199, 232;
+  --curious assemblage, 118;
+  --land of Mixes, 22;
+  --tropical, 387.
+  flowering shrubs, 22.
+  fog, 27, 126, 132.
+  forest fire, 34.
+  Frank, 189, 192, 200, 209, 213, 216.
+  Frontera, 393.
+  frost, 245, 251.
+  fugitive Jefe, 136.
+  funeral--an interrupted, 125;
+  --timely, 180;
+  --procession, 199, 332.
+
+  Gillow--Archbishop Eulogio, 3, 6
+  glossary, 399.
+  god-house, 88.
+  Godinez--Ramon, viii, 200, 209, 272, 273, 276, 308, 313, 319,
+  324, 332, 335, 349, 382, 383.
+  goitre, 48, 49, 79, 155.
+  gold coins worn, 40, 52, 353.
+  Gonzales--Manuel, viii, 108-111, 115, 156, 166, 171, 184, 189,
+  194, 198, 200, 209, 210, 241, 273, 276, 289, 290, 324, 330, 334,
+  348, 349.
+  Gonzales--Gov. Martin, vii, 114.
+  Grabic--Louis, viii, 189, 192, 198, 200, 209, 210, 241, 273, 276,
+  306, 313, 318, 329, 348.
+  granary, 60, 88, 190.
+  granite, 38.
+  greetings--New Year, 114.
+  grippe, 186.
+  Guadalupe, 395.
+  Guadalupe, our cook at Tancoco, 284, 286.
+  guamara, 280.
+  Guatemala, 43, 52, 340;
+  --money, 51.
+  Gutierrez Zamora, 281.
+  Guvi�o, 41, 333.
+  Guzman--Gamboa, 301.
+
+  hairless dog, 330.
+  hares, 171.
+  hats, 127, 224, 284.
+  hauling timber, 95.
+  hennequ�n, 296;
+  --treatment, 309.
+  Herman, 1, 5, 9.
+  herons, 278, 291.
+  Hidalgo--steamer, 325.
+  high-road, 40, 173.
+  h'men, 307, 310.
+  honey-wine, 191.
+  horse falls, 218;
+  --ill, 115, 178, 179.
+  hot springs, 96.
+  houses--Aztec, 283;
+  --Huaxtec, 284;
+  --Tarascan, 97;
+  --Totonac, 268.
+  Hrdlicka--his work, v.
+  Huachinango, 242.
+  Huaclilla, 119.
+  Huancito, 99.
+  Huauhtla--view, 232;
+  --town, 233;
+  --trade, 235;
+  --labor ideas, 235.
+  Huautla, 218.
+  Huaxteca verucruzana, 274;
+  --potosina, 274.
+  Huaxtecs, 261, 274, 279, 281;
+  --character, 285;
+  --type, 286.
+  huehuetes=los viejos, 243.
+  huehuetl, 91;
+  --(wrongly so-called), 287, 318, 358, 376.
+  Huehuetla, 247, 261, 263.
+  Huejutla, 283.
+  Huilotepec, 166, 328, 330, 331.
+  huip�l, huipili, see costume.
+  huitzatl, 191.
+  Huixquilucan, 56, 59, 245;
+  --thieves, 63.
+  Huixtan, 366.
+  Humboldt--Alexander, at Tule, 16.
+  husband--devoted, 186.
+  husk-stacks, 60.
+  Hyde, Dr. George B., 15.
+
+  idols, 253.
+  Ignacio--boy at Chilchota, 102.
+  iguana, 54, 327.
+  imbecility, 48, 205.
+  incense, 368.
+  indian government, 49, 357.
+  Indian Mexico, v. 396.
+  injured carter, 336.
+  interpreter--false, 383.
+  irrigation, 96.
+  Irvine, Captain, 294.
+  Isidro--uncle, 193.
+  Itztlis, 240.
+  Ixcotla, 193.
+  Ixcoyotla (bark paper), 268.
+  Ixcuintepec, 33, 156, 157.
+  Ixhuatlan, 338, 340.
+  Ixtaltepec, 333.
+  Ixtapa, 363, 373.
+  ixtli, 58, 59.
+  Ixtacalco, 395.
+  Ixtapalapa, 395.
+
+  Jacona, 98.
+  jail--San Cristobal, 367.
+  Janicho, 74.
+  Japanese, 41.
+  javali, 334.
+  jefe politico--drunk, 328;
+  --inefficient, 182, 185, 198, 216;
+  --his relation to his people, vii;
+  --as peacemaker, 353;
+  --of Tuxtla Gutierrez, 356;
+  --of Tulancingo--natural son of, 247.
+  Jiquipilas, 43, 349.
+  jonote, 246, 269.
+  Jornada, 338.
+  Juanico, 179.
+  Juarez--President Benito, 397.
+  Juaves, 164, 165, 168, 331, 337, 338;
+  --type, 169;
+  --night-watch, 170;
+  --singing, 171.
+  Juchitan, 41, 161, 333, 338, 343;
+  --trader, 170.
+  juiles, 395.
+  Juquila (Mixe), 29, 151.
+  Juxtlahuaca--Jefe of, 136.
+
+  Kan--Modesto, 312.
+  ke'esh, 305.
+  kingfisher, 291.
+
+  labor congress, 45.
+  laborers for Yucatan, 294.
+  lacquer--Chiapa, 45, 361;
+  --Uruapang.
+  lagoons, 276, 277, 290, 336.
+  Lake Chapala, 68;
+  --Patzcuaro, 68, 76.
+  landslide, 181.
+  Lang,--Charles B., viii, 115, 179, 184.
+  leaf-water, 193.
+  Leal--Manuel, Fernandez, ix.
+  Leandro, secretario Tamalin, 287.
+  Leon--Governor Francisco, 45, 342.
+  Leyra--Pablo, 246, 260, 263, 271.
+  libation, 255.
+  lightning, 183.
+  limestone, 18, 44, 50, 52, 126, 217, 249, 262, 296, 306, 314, 363,
+  364, 373;
+  --erosion, 118;
+  --hills, 219.
+  llano, 278, 281, 341, 363.
+  la Llave, 277, 278.
+  Lopez--Lieut.-Governor, 351, 381.
+  lost at night, 167.
+  Lumholtz--Charles, v., 79, 80, 83.
+  Lux--Ernst, vii, 3, 10, 14, 159.
+  lycopods, 154, 199.
+
+  macaws, 4, 340.
+  Macuilapa, 345.
+  Magdalena de los comales, 127.
+  magu�y, 60, 119.
+  mai, 367.
+  malacates, 59.
+  Malintzi, 188, 189.
+  mangroves, 290.
+  mantas, 128, 148.
+  Manuel, our arriero, 218, 219.
+  mapa, 236, 330.
+  mapachtli, 329.
+  mapaho, 202, 207.
+  Marcelo--Alejandro, 279.
+  Maria as a female name, 56.
+  marimba, 42, 346.
+  Mariano, our mozo, 115, 119, 156.
+  market--Tehuantepec, 162;
+  --Oaxaca, 112.
+  Martinez--Quirino, 249.
+  Martinez--Silvano, 78, 80, 83.
+  maskers, 71, 240, 243.
+  Mayas, 297, 304, 396, 397;
+  --stubbornness, 312.
+  Mazatecs--costume, 234;
+  --houses, 233.
+  measuring--Mitla, 146;
+  --Ayutla, 149.
+  Medellin, 14.
+  medical practice, 36.
+  Mendieta, 195.
+  Mercado--Governor Aristeo, 78.
+  M�rida, 295, 297, 301, 315, 355;
+  --expensive living, 298;
+  --carnival, 318, 321.
+  mesquite, 97.
+  Mexicalcingo, 395.
+  Mexico--steamer, 393, 394.
+  miraculous cross, 6.
+  mist, 22, 27.
+  Mitla--ruins, 4;
+  --Mixes seen at, 13;
+  --festival, 17;
+  --fiesta, 142;
+  --work at, 144;
+  --ruins, 148.
+  Mixes, 112, 398;
+  --first veiw of, 13;
+  --tragedy, 18;
+  --land of, 22;
+  --life, 23;
+  --roads, 31.
+  Mixtec, 115, 139;
+  --boy, 397;
+  --language, 140;
+  --planter, 204.
+  mogote, 78, 81.
+  mole, 222.
+  money--Guatemalan, 51.
+  monkey's comb, 340.
+  Montezuma, 250, 260.
+  moon influences young, 217.
+  moonstone, 64.
+  Mora--Se�ora, 278.
+  moral=mulberry, 246, 259.
+  Morrison--Stanton, 389.
+  mosquitoes, 289.
+  moss, 273;
+  --crimson, 214;
+  --gray, 232, 277;
+  yellow, 199, 214.
+  mounds, 116.
+  moving stone, 349.
+  mulada, 387.
+  mule--purchase, 15;
+  --accident, 33;
+  --trouble by, 44;
+  --trouble with, 52;
+  --gives out, 53;
+  --reported dead, 117.
+  muleteer--affectionate, 179.
+  mu�ecos, 246, 250, 258, 261, 268, 269.
+  Murcio--Don, 369.
+  Murcio--Guillermo, 129, 131, 136.
+  Museo Yucateco, 301.
+  music--of the Candelaria, 24;
+  --at Los Reyes, 91.
+
+  Nabor--Don, 98.
+  nacimiento, 195.
+  nagu�l, 166.
+  names of one river, 251.
+  Negrete, 95.
+  los negritos, 82.
+  Nehuatzen, 84.
+  Nenton, 49, 52.
+  New Year--celebration, 82;
+  --gifts, 339.
+  night-blindness, 164.
+  night-travel, 172.
+  night-watch, 170.
+  Nochixtlan, 120.
+  norther, 21, 22, 33, 158, 294, 326, 327, 393.
+  nublina, 232, 233, 261, 272.
+
+  Oaxaca, 4, 6, 15, 112.
+  obsidian, 240.
+  ocellated turkey, 318.
+  Ocosingo, 375.
+  Ocotopec (Mixe), 153, 154,
+  --(Mixtec), 112.
+  oleander, 174.
+
+  Once Pueblos, 98;
+  --ride through, 102.
+  operation proposed, 136.
+  orchids, 23, 27, 44, 126, 154, 199, 201, 207, 212, 232, 248.
+  organo cactus, 18.
+  Orozco y Berra, 131, 245, 264.
+  Otomis, 56, 242, 261, 397, 398;
+  --female type, 57:
+  --costume, 58;
+  --male types, 62.
+  ox-cart--travel, 334, 336, 337, 338, 340;
+  --accident, 341.
+  ox played out, 347.
+  Ozuluama, 274, 278;
+  --Jefe, of 276.
+
+  Pacheco--Anselmo, viii, 115, 168, 184.
+  Pacific, 37, 43, 112, 132, 160, 165;
+  --coast--yellow fever, 329.
+  Padre--the, his story, 1;
+  --at Chila, 10;
+  --at Medellin, 14.
+  paganism surviving, 254, 269, 305, 307.
+  pahuatl, 245.
+  Pahuatlan, 242, 244.
+  Pahuatlan River, 242.
+  Palacios--Conrado, 351.
+  Palenque, 377.
+  palms, 277, 278, 296.
+  Pantepec, 247, 265;
+  costume, 267;
+  --houses, 268;
+  --women, 267.
+  Panuco, 283.
+  Panuco River, 274.
+  Papalo, 182, 198, 214.
+  papaya, 309.
+  parasitic fig, 340.
+  el Parian, 118.
+  Parracho, 81.
+  parrots, 41, 166, 262, 334.
+  Paso Real, 288, 289.
+  pastores, 72.
+  Patzcuaro, 84, 107.
+  pea-flower, 201.
+  Pearson Company, 326.
+  pebbles wedged by torrent, 266.
+  pelico, 367.
+  pemol, 287.
+  peonage, 45.
+  Peru tree--belief, 194.
+  piano, 208.
+  Pichataro, 84, 106.
+  pigeons, 219.
+  pigs, 377.
+  pilgrimage, 48.
+  Pimentel--Governor, 351.
+  pineapples, 361.
+  pines, 128, 182, 371.
+  pinguicula, 154.
+  pinolillos, 347.
+  los Pinos, 344, 345.
+  pinto, 47, 332, 353, 361.
+  pitahaya (cactus), 96, 216.
+  pito, 287, 358, 377.
+  plaster prepared, 135.
+  le Plongeon--Dr. A., 301.
+  polydactyly, 205.
+  Ponce; Padre, 70, 71, 72, 73.
+  population of Mexico, v.
+  Porfiria, Aztec cook, 286.
+  posole, 343, 379.
+  pottery, 102, 112, 127, 137, 332, 339.
+  pouch--netted, 367.
+  Powell--William D., viii, 56.
+  predictions dire, 374.
+  presidente--sleepy, 267;
+  --Zautla, 201.
+  priest--drunken, 145;
+  --ignorant, 4;
+  active, 234;
+  --gifts to, 123;
+  --reception of, 124.
+  priestess--pagan, 254.
+  prisoners, 368;
+  --of state, 354.
+  private cart, 345.
+  Progress, 295, 299, 320, 324.
+  Puebla, 283, 300, 330.
+  Pueblo Viejo, 274, 275.
+  pulque, 61, 119;
+  --country, 240.
+  puma, 41.
+  pumice, 128.
+  pygmy statue, 57.
+  pyramid, 303, 362.
+
+  quail, 306.
+  quarrel adjusted, 354.
+  quartz, 18.
+  Quechol--Romualdo, 188, 189, 191, 192, 194, 196.
+  Quezaltepec, 31, 155
+  quichiquemil, see costume.
+  Quiero--Se�or, 13, 17.
+  Quiroga, 69, 70.
+
+  railroad--Yucatecan, 296, 303.
+  rain ceremonials, 271.
+  rain-god, 6.
+  rattle, 318.
+  Rau--Enrique, 385, 386, 390.
+  rebozos (Parracho), 81.
+  regidor perplexed, 162.
+  resting at summit, 373.
+  los Reyes, 90.
+  rheumatism cure, 330.
+  rhododendron, 22.
+  ridge in Yucatan, 306.
+  la Riviera, 291.
+  road ("rio blanca"), 219;
+  --dilapidated, 241.
+  roads--mixe, 156;
+  Zapotec, 177.
+  Robinson, A.A., ix.
+  robbery, 63.
+  rock-impressions, 196.
+  Rodriguez; Governor Pedro L., 247.
+  round houses, 131.
+  ruins (Tecomavaca), 186.
+
+  Sabina, 84, 106.
+  sacrifice, 252, 254.
+  salt, 373.
+  el Salto, 381, 389, 391.
+  San Antonio, 49.
+  San Antonio, 228;
+  --excitement at, 231.
+  San Bartolo (Hacienda), 19.
+  San Bartolo (Hidalgo), 261, 271;
+  --market, 262.
+  San Bartolo (Mixtec), 126.
+  San Bartolo (Zapotec), 176;
+  --costume, 177.
+  San Bartolome (Tzotzil), 49, 366.
+  San Bernardino, 232.
+  San Blas, 164.
+  San Carlos, 152, 177.
+  San Cristobal (Chiapas), 364, 365, 385.
+  San Estevan, 88.
+  San Francisco, 191.
+  San Geronimo (Mazatec), 232.
+  San Geronimo (Huaxtec), 288.
+  San Geronimo (Zapotec), 331, 332.
+  San Gregorio, 245, 268.
+  San Juan (Yucatan), 308, 309.
+  San Lorenzo; 14, 18.
+  San Lucas, 232, 235.
+  San Mateo del Mar, 168, 334.
+  San Miguel, 34, 157.
+  San Miguel (Chiapas), 344, 345.
+  San Nicolas, 260.
+  San Nicolas Panotla, 92, 397.
+  San Pablito, 246, 259;
+  --witchcraft, 257;
+  --paper, 259.
+  San Pablo el grande, 258, 261.
+  San Pedrito, 119.
+  San Pedro, 190.
+  San Pedro Soochiapan, 207;
+  --town-house, 208;
+  --public service, 209;
+  houses, 212.
+  San Sebastian, 364.
+  Sanchez--Padre, 364.
+  sandstone, 374, 377.
+  sand dollars, 327.
+  sandunga (song), 330.
+  Santa Ana, 188.
+  Santa Anita, 395.
+  Santa Fe de la Laguna, 69.
+  Santa Maria, 38, 160.
+  Santa Maria (Totonac), 250.
+  Santa Maria (Yucatan), 307.
+  Santa Maria Albarradas, 20.
+  Santa Maria Atlihuitzia, 195.
+  Santiago Guevea, 37, 158.
+  santocalli, 254.
+  Santo Domingo (Chiapas), 350.
+  Santo Domingo (Mixtec), 127.
+  sastun, 307, 310.
+  Sawapa, 89, 194.
+  schistose rock, 182.
+  school-teachers, 224.
+  scientific results of work, viii.
+  school at San Nicolas Panotla, 93.
+  scorpion, 394.
+  sea gulls, 290.
+  las Sedas, 116.
+  segundo of Zautla, 203, 204.
+  selaginella, 154.
+  Seler--Mrs., 331.
+  semi-domestication, 343.
+  sensitive plants, 201.
+  September 16, San Miguel's Day, 271.
+  shales, 377.
+  shaly-sandstone, 374.
+  silk, 235.
+  singing, 171, 192.
+  sister--loyal, 361.
+  slate, 20.
+  small-pox, 119, 194, 301, 321.
+  Smith--Lucius, 4, 15.
+  smuggling, 51.
+  snakes, 277, 307, 358.
+  snipe, 290.
+  soldiers, 43.
+  songs--Aztec, 192;
+  --Zapotec, 330.
+  spear-thrower, 75.
+  spinning, 58, 202.
+  spot-sacral--on Maya babies, 411.
+  stalagmite, 315.
+  Starr in Old Mexico, 405.
+  stations--railroad, 303.
+  stream-beds dry, 41.
+  stubbornness, 312.
+  subterranean streams, 373.
+  Suchiapa, 361.
+  sugar-making, 244, 249, 314,
+  --mill, 307
+  sunset, 192.
+  surviving paganism, 6, 395.
+  syenite, 43.
+  Syrian peddlers, 7.
+
+  Tamalin, 279, 281.
+  Tampico, 274.
+  Tanaquillo=Tanaco, 104, 105.
+  Tanatepec, 42.
+  Tanchitla, 251.
+  Tancoco, 281, 284;
+  --hats, 284;
+  --houses, 284.
+  Tangancicuaro, 98.
+  Tantima, 280, 282;
+  houses, 283, 286.
+  Tapachula, 373.
+  Tarascans, 68;
+  --trading, 85.
+  Tatarian--Bedros, viii.
+  Tecomavaca, 185.
+  Tecomavaca Viejo, 186.
+  Tehuacan, 8.
+  Tehuantepec, 39, 161, 328;
+  --name story, 165;
+  --yellow fever, 329.
+  Tehuantepec River, 173.
+  Tehuantepec women, 112;
+  --beauty, 39;
+  --versus Tuxtla Gutierrez, 352;
+  --dress, 40.
+  Tekax, 303, 305;
+  --hermita, 304;
+  --Jefe of, 304.
+  temascal, 191, 192, 283.
+  Tenango (Chiapas), 376;
+  --pottery, 377.
+  Tenango del Doria, 247, 260, 271.
+  Tenejapa, 366, 367, 371;
+  market, 372.
+  Teotitlan del Camino, 228, 229.
+  tepache, 148, 217.
+  Tepanapa, 200, 213.
+  Tepehuas, 247, 267;
+  --costume, 264.
+  Tepeyac, 395.
+  teponastl, 265.
+  Teposcolula, 139.
+  Tequixistlan, 174.
+  thatching, 41.
+  theatre, 103.
+  tiger=jaguar, or ocelotl, 307.
+  tiger-cat, 279.
+  Thompson--Edward, 318, 320.
+  three-part house, 88.
+  Tilantongo, 121.
+  tinajas, 119.
+  Titian--the, 73, 74.
+  titulo, 236.
+  Tlacolula, 142, 180.
+  Tlacotepec, 38, 160.
+  Tlacuilotepec, 246, 248, 249.
+  Tlaxcala, 85, 188, 192, 283.
+  Tlaxcalans, 397.
+  Tlaxcalteca (song), 192.
+  Tlaxco, 245.
+  Tlaxiaco, 128.
+  toro play, 324, 384.
+  toros, 142.
+  torrent-wash, 82.
+  Torres--Anastasia, 362.
+  Torres--Padre, 72.
+  tortillas, 339.
+  tortuga, 318, 377.
+  las Tortugas, 272.
+  Totolapa, 179.
+  Totonacs, 242, 247, 251, 265, 396;
+  --fishing, 266.
+  toucan, 44, 340, 348.
+  trade, 170, 235, 236.
+  tramp--American, 50, 52.
+  tree-ferns, 22, 54, 199, 273, 387.
+  trees protected, 297, 309.
+  la Trinidad, 390.
+  Triquis, 131, 398.
+  el Triunfo, 385, 386, 387, 388, 389.
+  tropical forest, 22, 37, 387.
+  troupe--comedy, 337.
+  tsupakwa, 75.
+  tufa, 50.
+  tufaceous deposits, 119, 139, 263.
+  Tulancingo, 239.
+  Tule, 17, 142;
+  --great tree at, 16.
+  Tumbala, 380, 384, 385, 389;
+  --boys delayed at, 388.
+  Tuxtla Gutierrez, 44, 331, 333, 335, 338, 346, 347, 350, 351 et, 357,
+376.
+  Tzendals, 366, 367, 378;
+  --dress, 372, 380;
+  --hair-dressing, 372.
+  Tzintzuntzan, 69, 73.
+  Tzotzils, 45, 366, 367;
+  --dress, 366;
+  --industrious, 366.
+
+  ucuares, 102.
+  ule, 269.
+  Union Hidalgo=Guvi�o, 333, 334, 335, 343.
+  United States--ideas regarding, 42.
+  Uruapan, 78;
+  --lacquer, 79;
+  --goitre, 79.
+
+  Valencia--Jefe, 178, 375.
+  Valley hot, 181.
+  Van Antwerp--A.L., ix.
+  Venta Colorado, 241.
+  Vera Cruz, 394.
+  Vice-consul (Solis), 299, 320.
+  los Viejos, 71.
+  view-extended, 362.
+  village crying, 65, 153.
+
+  wasp nests, 156.
+  watch-houses in fields, 120.
+  water birds, 277;
+  --doubtful, 341.
+  wayside selling, 76, 242.
+  wayside shrine, 28.
+  weaving, 50, 127, 138, 202, 211, 366.
+  wedding, 221, 236.
+  weighing, 170.
+  Werner, Mr., 331.
+  wheels--hot, 349.
+  whistles--pottery, 112.
+  Wilson, David A., viii.
+  wind-mills, 297.
+  witchcraft, 246, 256, 376;
+  --cave, 256.
+  women difficult subjects, 89, 132, 157, 162, 185, 268, 369, 381;
+  --easy   subjects, 235, 265, 285;
+  --of Tuxtla Gutierrez beautiful, 352;
+  --Zapotec, 339.
+  wool, 138.
+  work--nature of, vi;
+  --views regarding, 235;
+  --methods and difficulties, 61, 86, 122,
+  132, 144, 149, 183, 234, 312, 356.
+  wry-necks, 278.
+
+  xalama, 259.
+  Xalapa, 173.
+  Xaya, 307, 308, 309.
+  Xochihua, Sr., 245, 260.
+  xtoles, 317, 323.
+  Yajalon, 379, 381.
+  Yaqui, 396.
+  Yautepec, 375.
+  yellow fever, 301, 308, 316, 327, 328, 329, 393.
+  Yodocono, 120, 396.
+  Yucatan, 293, 294;
+  --aspect of, 296;
+  --dress, 297.
+
+  Zamora, 97.
+  Zanatepec, 42.
+  el Zapato, 219.
+  Zapote (hacienda), 346.
+  Zapotecs, 112, 338, 379, 397;
+  --wounded, 19;
+  --woman's dress, 34;
+  --family, 34;
+  --traders, 170;
+  --cook, 171;
+  --family, 176;
+  --songs, 330;
+  --painting, 330;
+  --expansion, 339.
+  Zautla--San Juan, 201.
+  Zinacantan, 364.
+  Ziracuaretaro, 77.
+  Zoques, 45, 351;
+  --beauty of women, 352;
+  --dress, 352;
+  --baby-carrying, 353;
+  --houses, 357.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
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+    <title>The Project Gutenberg eBook of IN INDIAN MEXICO, A Narrative Of Travel And
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of In Indian Mexico (1908), by Frederick Starr
+
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+Title: In Indian Mexico (1908)
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+Author: Frederick Starr
+
+Release Date: July 2, 2005 [EBook #16183]
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+
+    <hr style="width: 100%;" /><br /><br />
+    <h1>IN INDIAN MEXICO</h1>
+    <br /><br />
+    <hr />
+    <br />
+      <div class="center">
+        <img src="images/image001.jpg" width="332" height="517" alt="" title="" />
+      </div>
+
+    <hr />
+    <h2>A NARRATIVE OF TRAVEL AND LABOR</h2>
+    <h3>BY</h3>
+    <h2>FREDERICK STARR</h2>
+    <h4>
+      CHICAGO FORBES &amp; COMPANY
+    </h4>
+    <h4>
+      <b>Library of Congress Cataloging in Publication Data</b>
+    </h4>
+    <h4>
+      Starr, Frederick, 1858-1933. In Indian Mexico
+    </h4>
+    <h4>
+      Reprint of the ed. published by Forbes, Chicago. 1. Indians of Mexico. 2.
+      Mexico&mdash;Description and travel. 3. Starr, Frederick, 1858-1933. I. Title.
+      F1220.S78 1978 972'.004'97 74-9025 ISBN 0-404-11903-4
+    </h4>
+    <h4>
+      First AMS edition published in 1978
+    </h4>
+    <h4>
+      Reprinted from the edition of 1908, Chicago.
+    </h4>
+    <h4>
+      [Trim size of the original has been slightly altered in this edition. Original trim
+      size: 15.5 x 23.7 cm. Text area of the original has been maintained in this
+      edition.]
+    </h4>
+    <hr />
+    <h4>IN INDIAN MEXICO IS AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED TO A.A. ROBINSON TO WHOM ALL MY WORK
+    IN MEXICO IS DUE AND WHOSE INTEREST HAS BEEN CONTINUOUS AND UNFAILING.</h4>
+    <hr style="width: 65%;" />
+    <h2>CONTENTS</h2>
+    <hr />
+<div class="center">
+   <a href="#PREFACE"><b>PREFACE</b></a><br /><br />
+    <b>PRIESTLY ARCHAEOLOGY</b>.....<a href="#CHAPTER_I"><b>CHAPTER
+      I</b></a><br /><br />
+    <b>WE START FOR GUATEMALA</b>.....<a href="#CHAPTER_II"><b>CHAPTER
+      II</b></a><br /><br />
+    <b>THE LAND OF THE MIXES</b>.....<a href="#CHAPTER_III"><b>CHAPTER
+      III</b></a><br /><br />
+    <b>THROUGH CHIAPAS</b>.....<a href="#CHAPTER_IV"><b>CHAPTER IV
+      </b></a><br /><br />
+    <b>AT HUIXQUILUCAN</b>..... <a href="#CHAPTER_V"><b>CHAPTER V
+      </b></a><br /><br />
+    <b>LAKE PATZCUARO</b> .....<a href="#CHAPTER_VI"><b>CHAPTER VI
+      </b></a><br /><br />
+    <b>TO URUAPAN BEFORE THE RAILROAD</b>..... <a href="#CHAPTER_VII"><b>CHAPTER
+      VII</b></a><br /><br />
+    <b>TLAXCALA</b> .....<a href="#CHAPTER_VIII"><b>CHAPTER VIII
+      </b></a><br /><br />
+    <b>ZAMORA AND THE ONCE PUEBLOS</b>..... <a href="#CHAPTER_IX"><b>CHAPTER
+      IX</b></a><br /><br />
+    <b>THE BOY WITH THE SMILE</b>.....<a href="#CHAPTER_X"><b>CHAPTER
+      X</b></a><br /><br />
+    <b>IN THE MIXTECA ALTA</b> .....<a href="#CHAPTER_XI"><b>CHAPTER
+      XI</b></a><br /><br />
+    <b>THE MIXES REVISITED</b>.....<a href="#CHAPTER_XII"><b>CHAPTER
+      XII</b></a><br /><br />
+    <b>ABOUT TEHUANTEPEC</b>..... <a href="#CHAPTER_XIII"><b>CHAPTER
+      XIII</b></a><br /><br />
+    <b>ON THE MAIN HIGH-ROAD</b>.....<a href="#CHAPTER_XIV"><b>CHAPTER
+      XIV</b></a><br /><br />
+    <b>CUICATLAN</b>..... <a href="#CHAPTER_XV"><b>CHAPTER XV</b></a><br /><br />
+    <b>IN TLAXCALAN TOWNS</b>.....<a href="#CHAPTER_XVI"><b>CHAPTER
+      XVI</b></a><br /><br />
+    <b>IN THE CHINANTLA</b>.....<a href="#CHAPTER_XVII"><b>CHAPTER
+      XVII</b></a><br /><br />
+    <b>TO COIXTLAHUACA</b>.....<a href="#CHAPTER_XVIII"><b>CHAPTER
+      XVIII</b></a><br /><br />
+    <b>HUAUHTLA AND THE MAZATECS</b>.....<a href="#CHAPTER_XIX"><b>CHAPTER
+      XIX</b></a><br /><br />
+    <b>TEPEHUAS AND TOTONACS</b>.....<a href="#CHAPTER_XX"><b>CHAPTER
+      XX</b></a><br /><br />
+    <b>IN THE HUAXTECA</b>.....<a href="#CHAPTER_XXI"><b>CHAPTER
+      XXI</b></a><br /><br />
+    <b>IN MAYA LAND</b>.....<a href="#CHAPTER_XXII"><b>CHAPTER XXII</b></a><br /><br />
+    <b>OX-CART EXPERIENCES</b>.....<a href="#CHAPTER_XXIII"><b>CHAPTER
+      XXIII</b></a><br /><br />
+    <b>AT TUXTLA GUTIERREZ</b>.....<a href="#CHAPTER_XXIV"><b>CHAPTER
+      XXIV</b></a><br /><br />
+    <b>TZOTZILS AND TZENDALS</b>.....<a href="#CHAPTER_XXV"><b>CHAPTER
+      XXV</b></a><br /><br />
+    <b>CHOLS</b>.....<a href="#CHAPTER_XXVI"><b>CHAPTER XXVI</b></a><br /><br />
+    <b>CONCLUSION</b>.....<a href="#CHAPTER_XXVII"><b>CHAPTER XXVII</b></a><br /><br />
+  <a href="#GLOSSARY_OF_SPANISH_AND_INDIAN_WORDS"><b>GLOSSARY OF SPANISH AND INDIAN
+    WORDS</b></a><br /><br />
+  <a href="#ITINERARY"><b>ITINERARY</b></a><br /><br />
+  <a href="#APPENDIX"><b>APPENDIX</b></a><br /><br />
+  <a href="#THE_PURPLE_SPOT_ON_MAYA_BABIES"><b>THE PURPLE SPOT ON MAYA
+    BABIES</b></a><br /><br />
+  <a href="#INDEX"><b>INDEX</b></a><br /><br />
+</div>
+
+    <hr style="width: 100%;" />
+    <h2><a name="PREFACE" id="PREFACE"></a>PREFACE</h2>
+    <p>The reading public may well ask, Why another travel book on Mexico? Few countries
+    have been so frequently written up by the traveler. Many books, good, bad, and
+    indifferent, but chiefly bad, have been perpetrated. Most of these books, however,
+    cover the same ground, and ground which has been traversed by many people. Indian
+    Mexico is practically unknown. The only travel-book regarding it, in English, is
+    Lumholtz's "Unknown Mexico." The indians among whom Lumholtz worked lived in
+    northwestern Mexico; those among whom I have studied are in southern Mexico. The only
+    district where his work and mine overlap is the Tarascan area. In fact, then, I write
+    upon an almost unknown and untouched subject. Lumholtz studied life and customs; my
+    study has been the physical type of south Mexican indians. Within the area covered by
+    Lumholtz, the physical characteristics of the tribes have been studied by Hrdlicka.
+    His studies and my own are practically the only investigations within the field.</p>
+    <p>There are two Mexicos. Northern Mexico to the latitude of the capital city is a
+    <i>mestizo</i> country; the indians of pure blood within that area occupy limited and
+    circumscribed regions. Southern Mexico is indian country; there are large regions,
+    where the <i>mestizos</i>, not the indians, are the exception. From the time of my
+    first contact with Mexican indians, I was impressed with the notable differences
+    between tribes, and desired to make a serious study of their types. In 1895, the
+    accidental meeting with a priest from Guatemala led to my making a journey to Central
+    America. It was on that journey that I saw how the work in question might be done.
+    While the government of Mexico is modeled upon the same pattern as our own, it is far
+    more paternal in its nature. The Republic is a confederation of sovereign states,
+    each of which has its elected governor. The states are subdivided into districts
+    somewhat corresponding to our counties, over each of which is a <i>jefe politico</i>
+    appointed by the governor; he has no responsibility to those below him, but is
+    directly responsible to the man who names him, and who can at will remove him; he is
+    not expected to trouble the state government unnecessarily, and as long as he turns
+    over the taxes which are due the state he is given a free hand. Within the districts
+    are the cities and towns, each with its local, independent, elected town
+    government.</p>
+    <p>The work I planned to do among these indian towns was threefold: 1. The
+    measurement of one hundred men and twenty-five women in each population, fourteen
+    measurements being taken upon each subject; 2. The making of
+    pictures,&mdash;portraits, dress, occupations, customs, buildings, and landscapes; 3.
+    The making of plaster busts of five individuals in each tribe. To do such work, of
+    course, involved difficulty, as the Indians of Mexico are ignorant, timid, and
+    suspicious. Much time would be necessary, in each village, if one depended upon
+    establishing friendly and personal relations with the people. But with government
+    assistance, all might be done promptly and easily. Such assistance was readily
+    secured. Before starting upon any given journey, I secured letters from the
+    Department of Fomento, one of the Executive Departments of the Federal Government.
+    These letters were directed to the governors of the states; they were courteously
+    worded introductions. From the governors, I received letters of a more vigorous
+    character to the <i>jefes</i> of the districts to be visited. From the <i>jefes</i>,
+    I received stringent orders upon the local governments; these orders entered into no
+    detail, but stated that I had come, recommended by the superior authorities, for
+    scientific investigations; that the local authorities should furnish the necessaries
+    of life at just prices, and that they should supply such help as was necessary for my
+    investigations. In addition to the orders from the <i>jefes</i> to the town
+    authorities, I carried a general letter from the governor of the state to officials
+    of every grade within its limits. This was done in case I should at any time reach
+    towns in districts where I had been unable to see the <i>jefe politico</i>. It was
+    desirable, when possible, that the <i>jefe</i> should be seen before serious work was
+    undertaken. As Governor Gonzales of Oaxaca once remarked, when furnishing me a
+    general letter: "You should always see the <i>jefe politico</i> of the district
+    first. These Indians know nothing of me, and often will not recognize my name; but
+    the <i>jefe</i> of their district they know, and his orders they will obey." In using
+    these official orders, I adopted whatever methods were best calculated to gain my
+    ends; success depended largely on my taking matters into my own hands. Each official
+    practically unloaded me upon the next below him, with the expectation that I should
+    gain my ends, if possible, but at the same time he felt, and I knew, that his
+    responsibility had ended. In case of serious difficulty, I could not actually count
+    upon the backing of any one above the official with whom I then was dealing.</p>
+    <p>Upon the Guatemala expedition, which took place in January-March, 1896, my only
+    companion was Mr. Ernst Lux, whose knowledge of the language, the country, and the
+    people was of the utmost value. As the result of that journey, my vacations through a
+    period of four years were devoted to this field of research. The first field
+    expedition covered the period from November, 1897, to the end of March, 1898; the
+    plan of work included the visiting of a dozen or more tribes, with interpreter,
+    photographer, and plaster-worker; the success of the plan depended upon others. Dr.
+    W.D. Powell was to serve as interpreter, Mr. Bedros Tatarian as photographer; at the
+    last moment the plans regarding the plaster-worker failed; arrived in the field, Dr.
+    Powell was unable to carry out his contract; the photographic work disintegrated, and
+    failure stared us in the face. Reorganization took place. Rev. D.A. Wilson was
+    secured as interpreter, two Mexican plaster-workers, Anselmo Pacheco of Puebla and
+    Ramon Godinez of Guadalajara, were discovered, and work was actually carried through
+    upon four tribes. The second field expedition covered the period of January-March,
+    1899; eight tribes were visited, and a most successful season's work was done;
+    Charles B. Lang was photographer, Anselmo Pacheco plaster-worker, and Manuel Gonzales
+    general helper. The third field season, January-March, 1900, was in every way
+    successful, six populations being visited; my force consisted of Louis Grabic
+    photographer, Ramon Godinez plaster-worker, and Manuel Gonzales general assistant.
+    The work was brought to a conclusion in January-March, 1901, during which period six
+    tribes were visited; the party was the same as the preceding year.</p>
+    <p>"In Indian Mexico" claims to be only a narrative of travel and of work. It is
+    intended for the general public. The scientific results of our expeditions have been
+    published under the following titles:</p>
+    <p>1. The Indians of Southern Mexico: an Ethnographic Album. Chicago, 1899. Cloth;
+    oblong 4to; pp. 32. 141 full-page plates.</p>
+    <p>2. Notes upon the Ethnography of Southern Mexico. 1900. 8vo, pp. 98. 72 cuts,
+    maps, etc. Proc. Dav. Acad. Nat. Sci., Vol. VIII.</p>
+    <p>3. Notes on the Ethnography of Southern Mexico, Part II. 1902. 8vo, pp. 109. 52
+    cuts, map, etc. Proc. Dav. Acad. Nat. Sci., Vol. IX.</p>
+    <p>4. The Physical Characters of the Indians of Southern Mexico. 4to, 59 pp. Sketch
+    map, color diagram, and 30 double cuts. Decennial Publications, University of
+    Chicago, 1902.</p>
+    <p>5. The Mapa de Cuauhtlantzinco or Codice Campos. 1898. 8vo, pp. 38. 46 engravings.
+    University of Chicago Press.</p>
+    <p>6. Recent Mexican Study of the Native Languages of Mexico. 1900. 8vo, pp. 19. 7
+    portraits.</p>
+    <p>7. Picture of Otomi woman beating bark paper. Printed on sheet of the original
+    paper; mounted.</p>
+    <p>8. The Mapa of Huilotepec. Reproduction; single sheet, mounted.</p>
+    <p>9. The Mapa of Huauhtla. Reproduction; single sheet, mounted.</p>
+    <p>10. Survivals of Paganism in Mexico. The Open Court. 1899.</p>
+    <p>11. Mexican Paper. American Antiquarian. 1900.</p>
+    <p>12. The Sacral Spot in Maya Indians. Science. 1903.</p>
+    <p>Naturally, in a work of such extent we have been under obligation to many parties.
+    It is impossible to acknowledge, in detail, such obligations. We must, however,
+    express our indebtedness, for assistance rendered, to the Mexican Central Railroad,
+    the Mexican Railway, the Mexican National Railroad, the Tehuantepec Railroad, the
+    Mexican Southern Railroad, and the Interoceanic Railroad; also to the Ward Line of
+    steamers. Among individuals, it is no unfair discrimination to express especial
+    thanks to Mr. A.A. Robinson and Mr. A.L. Van Antwerp. President Diaz has ever shown a
+    friendly interest in my plans of work and the results obtained. Se&ntilde;or Manuel
+    Fernandez Leal, Minister of the Department of Fomento, more than any other official,
+    lent us every aid and assistance in his power; his successor, Se&ntilde;or Leandro
+    Fernandez, continued the kindness shown by Minister Leal. And to all the governors of
+    the states and to the <i>jefes</i> of the districts we are under many obligations,
+    and express to each and all our appreciation of their kind assistance. Those personal
+    friends who have been helpful in this specific work in Indian Mexico are mentioned in
+    the appropriate places in the text. To those companions and assistants who
+    accompanied us upon the journeys a large part of the results of this work are
+    due.</p>
+    <p>CHICAGO, January, 1908.</p>
+    <hr style="width: 65%;" /><br /><br />
+    <h1><a name="IN_INDIAN_MEXICO" id="IN_INDIAN_MEXICO"></a><b>IN INDIAN MEXICO</b></h1>
+    <a name="page1" id="page1"/><br /><br />
+    <hr style="width: 65%;" />
+    <h2><a name="CHAPTER_I" id="CHAPTER_I"></a>CHAPTER I</h2>
+    <h2>PRIESTLY ARCHAEOLOGY</h2>
+    <h3>(1895)</h3>
+    <p>While we stood in the Puebla station, waiting for the train to be made ready, we
+    noticed a priest, who was buying his ticket at the office. On boarding the train, we
+    saw nothing of him, as he had entered another car. Soon after we started, Herman made
+    his usual trip of inspection through the train, and on his return told me that a
+    learned priest was in the second-class coach, and that I ought to know him. As I paid
+    no great attention to his suggestion, he soon deserted me for his priestly friend,
+    but presently returned and renewed his advice. He told me this priest was no common
+    man; that he was an ardent archaeologist; that he not only collected relics, but made
+    full notes and diagrams of all his investigations; that he cared for live Indians
+    also, and had made a great collection of dress, weapons, and tools, among Guatemalan
+    tribes. When I even yet showed no intention of hurrying in to visit his new
+    acquaintance, the boy said: "You must come in to see him, for I promised him you
+    would, and you ought not to prove me to be a liar."</p>
+    <p>This appeal proved effectual and I soon called upon the priestly archaeologist in
+    the other car. He was an interesting man. By birth a German, he spoke excellent
+    English; born of Protestant parents and reared in their faith, in early manhood be
+    became a Catholic; renounced by his parents <a name="page2"
+    id="page2"/>and left without support, he was befriended by Jesuits and
+    determined to become a priest. Entering the ministry at twenty-nine years of age, he
+    was sent as mission priest to foreign lands. He had lived in California, Utah, and
+    Nevada; he had labored in Ecuador, Panama, and Guatemala. His interest in
+    archaeology, kindled in the Southwest, continued in his later fields of labor. Waxing
+    confidential he said: "I am a priest first, because I must live, but it does not
+    interfere much with my archaeology." For years past the padre has lived in Guatemala,
+    where he had charge of one of the largest parishes in that Republic, with some
+    eighteen thousand full-blood indians in his charge. Like most Germans a linguist, the
+    padre spoke German, French, Spanish, English, and Quiche, the most important indian
+    speech of Guatemala. In his parish, he so arranged his work as to leave most of his
+    time free for investigation. Twice a week he had baptisms, on Thursday and Sunday;
+    these duties on Thursday took but a couple of hours, leaving the rest of the day
+    free; Sundays, of course, were lost, but not completely, for the indians often then
+    told him of new localities, where diggings might be undertaken. Always when digging
+    into ancient mounds and graves, he had his horse near by ready for mounting, and his
+    oil and other necessaries at hand, in case he should be summoned to the bedside of
+    the dying. As the indians always knew where to look for him, no time was lost.</p>
+    <p>Not only was the padre an archaeologist: he also gathered plants, birds, and
+    insects. When he was leaving Germany, his nephew, the ten-year-old child of his
+    sister, wished to accompany him. The parents refused their permission, but the uncle
+    gave the boy some money, and they met each other in Frankfort and started on their
+    journey. They have been together ever since. The padre depends completely on the
+    younger man, whom he has fashioned to his <a name="page3"
+    id="page3"/>mind. The plants, birdskins, and insects have supplied a
+    steady income. The plants cost labor; insects were easier to get. All the indian boys
+    in the parish were supplied with poison-bottles and set to work; a stock of prints of
+    saints, beads, medals, and crucifixes was doled out to the little collectors,
+    according to the value of their trophies. To allay the suspicions of his
+    parishioners, the padre announced that he used the insects in making medicines. One
+    Sunday a pious old indian woman brought to church a great beetle, which she had
+    caught in her corn field four days before; during that time it had been tied by a
+    string to her bed's leg; she received a medal. One day a man brought a bag containing
+    some five hundred living insects; on opening it, they all escaped into the house,
+    causing a lively time for their recapture.</p>
+    <p>The nephew, Ernst, had made a collection of eleven hundred skins of Guatemalan
+    birds. The padre and he have supplied specimens to many of the great museums of the
+    world, but the choicest things have never been permitted to leave their hands.</p>
+    <p>The padre is a great success at getting into trouble. He fled from Ecuador on
+    account of political difficulties; his stay in Guatemala is the longest he has ever
+    made in one place. During his eight years there he was successful; but he finally
+    antagonized the government, was arrested, and thrown into jail. He succeeded in
+    escaping, fled to Salvador, and from there made his way to the United States, where,
+    for a little time, he worked, unhappily, at San Antonio, Texas. A short time since,
+    the Archbishop of Oaxaca was in Texas, met the padre, and promised him an appointment
+    in his diocese. The padre was now on his way to Oaxaca to see the prelate and receive
+    his charge.</p>
+    <p>He was full of hope for a happy future. When he learned that we were bound for the
+    ruins of Mitla, he was <a name="page4"
+    id="page4"/>fired with a desire to accompany us. At Oaxaca we
+    separated, going to different hotels. My party was counting upon the company of Mr.
+    Lucius Smith, as interpreter and companion, to the ruins, but we were behind our
+    appointment and he had gone upon another expedition. This delighted the padre, who
+    saw a new light upon the path of duty. The archbishop had received him cordially, and
+    had given him a parish, although less than a day had passed since his arrival. When
+    the padre knew of our disappointment, he hastened to his prelate, told him that an
+    eminent American archaeologist, with a party of four, wished to visit Mitla, but had
+    no interpreter; might he not accompany these worthy gentlemen, in some way serving
+    mother church by doing so? So strong was his appeal, that he was deputed to say mass
+    at Mitla Sunday, starting for his new parish of Chila on the Monday following.</p>
+    <p>In the heavy, lumbering coach we left next morning, Saturday, for Mitla. The road,
+    usually deep with dust, was in fair condition on account of recent rains. We arrived
+    in the early afternoon and at once betook ourselves to the ruins. At the curacy, we
+    presented the archbishop's letter to the indian cura, who turned it over once or
+    twice, then asked the padre to read it, as his eyes were bad. While the reading
+    proceeded, the old man listened with wonder, and then exclaimed, "What a learned man
+    you are to read like that!" As we left, the padre expressed his feelings at the
+    comeliness of the old priest's indian housekeeper, at the number of her children, at
+    the suspicious wideness of his bed, and at his ignorance, in wearing a ring, for all
+    the world just like a bishop's. But he soon forgot his pious irritation amid those
+    marvelous ruins of past grandeur. In our early ramble he lost no opportunity to tell
+    the indians that he would repeat mass on the morrow at seven, and that they should
+    make a special effort to be present.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image002a.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><a name="page5" id="page5"/> <b>WITH THE
+      PADRE IN MITLA RUINS</b></p>
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image002b.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>THE PADRE, ERNST AND THE DOGS</b></p>
+<br />
+
+
+
+    <p>But as we wandered from one to another of the ancient buildings, the thought of
+    the morrow's duty lost its sweetness. He several times remarked that it was a great
+    pity to lose any of our precious morning hours in saying mass, when there were ruins
+    of such interest to be seen. These complaints gained in force and frequency as
+    evening approached, until finally, as we sat at supper, he announced his decision to
+    say mass before daybreak; he would call me at five o'clock, we would go directly to
+    the church, we would be through service before six, would take our morning's coffee
+    immediately after, and then would have quite a piece of the morning left for the
+    ruins, before the coach should leave for Oaxaca.</p>
+    <p>The plan was carried out in detail. At five we were called from our beds by the
+    anxious padre. Herman and I were the only members of the party who were sufficiently
+    devout to care to hear mass so early. With the padre, we stumbled in the darkness up
+    to the church, where we roused the old woman who kept the key and the boy who rang
+    the bell. The vestments were produced, the padre hastily robed, and the bell rung;
+    the padre was evidently irritated at the absence of a congregation, as he showed by
+    the rapid and careless way in which he repeated the first part of the service. When,
+    however, at the <i>Credo</i>, he turned and saw that several poor indians had quietly
+    crept in, a change came over him; his tone became fuller, his manner more dignified,
+    and the service itself more impressive and decorous. Still, we were through long
+    before six, and throwing off his vestments, which he left the boy to put away, the
+    padre seized me by the arm, and we hastened down the hill to our morning's coffee. On
+    the way we met a number of indians on their way to mass, whom the padre sternly
+    rebuked for their laziness and want of devotion. Immediately after coffee, we were
+    among the ruins.<a name="page6" id="page6"/></p>
+    <p>The padre had kindly arranged for my presentation to his Grace, Archbishop Gillow.
+    Reaching Oaxaca late on Sunday afternoon, we called at the Palace. His Grace is a man
+    of good presence, with a face of some strength and a courteous and gracious manner.
+    He appeared to be about fifty-five years of age. After the padre had knelt and kissed
+    the ring, the archbishop invited us to be seated, expressed an interest in our trip
+    to Mitla, hoping that it had proved successful. He then spoke at some length in
+    regard to his diocese. He emphasized its diversity in climate and productions, the
+    wide range of its plant life, the great number of indian tribes which occupied it,
+    the Babel of tongues within it, its vast mineral wealth. A Mexican by birth, the
+    archbishop is, in part, of English blood and was educated, as a boy, in England. He
+    speaks English easily and well. He showed us many curious and interesting things.
+    Among these was a cylindrical, box-like figure of a rain-god, which was found by a
+    priest upon his arrival at the Mixe Indian village of Mixistlan.<a
+    name="FNanchor_A_1" id="FNanchor_A_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_A_1"
+    class="fnanchor">[A]</a> It was in the village church, at the high altar where it
+    shared worship with the virgin and the crucifix. The archbishop himself, in his
+    description of the incident, used the word <i>latria</i>. We were also shown a little
+    cross, which stood upon the archbishop's writing-table, made in part from a fragment
+    of that miraculous cross, which was found by Sir Francis Drake, upon the west coast.
+    That "terrible fanatic" tried to destroy it, according to a well-known story. The
+    cross was found standing when the Spaniards first arrived and is commonly attributed
+    to St. Thomas. Sir Francis upon seeing this emblem of a hated faith, first gave
+    orders to hew it down with axes; but axes were not sharp enough to harm it. Fires
+    were then kindled to burn it, but had no effect. Ropes were attached to it and many
+    men were set to drag it from <a name="page7"
+    id="page7"/>the sand; but all their efforts could not move it. So it
+    was left standing, and from that time became an object of especial veneration. Time,
+    however, destroys all things. People were constantly breaking off bits of the sacred
+    emblem for relics until so little was left of the trunk near the ground that it was
+    deemed necessary to remove the cross. The diggers were surprised to find that it had
+    never set more than a foot into the sand. This shows the greatness of the
+    miracle.</p>
+    <div class="footnote">
+      <p><a name="Footnote_A_1" id="Footnote_A_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_A_1"><span
+      class="label">[A]</span></a> Survivals of Paganism in Mexico. The Open Court.
+      1899.</p>
+    </div>
+    <p>The padre had been assigned to the parish of Chila, a great indian town, near
+    Tehuacan. Early the next morning he left for his new home.</p>
+    <hr style='width: 45%;' />
+    <p>Not only did the padre, while in Oaxaca, urge us to call upon him in his new
+    parish; after he was settled, he renewed his invitation. So we started for Chila. We
+    had been in the <i>tierra caliente</i>, at Cordoba. From there we went by rail to
+    Esperanza, from which uninteresting town we took a street-car line, forty-two miles
+    long, to Tehuacan. This saved us time, distance, and money, and gave us a brand-new
+    experience. There were three coaches on our train, first-, second-, and third-class.
+    When buying tickets we struck acquaintance with a Syrian peddler. Three of these were
+    travelling together; one of them spoke a little English, being proficient in
+    profanity. He likes the United States, <i>per se</i>, and does not like Mexico; but
+    he says the latter is the better for trade. "In the United States, you sell maybe
+    fifteen, twenty-five, fifty cents a day; here ten, fifteen, twenty-five dollars." The
+    trip lasted three hours and involved three changes of mules at stations, where we
+    found all the excitement and bustle of a true railroad station.</p>
+    <p>The country was, at first, rolling, with a sparse growth of yuccas, many of which
+    were exceptionally large and fine. On the hills were occasional <i>haciendas</i>.
+    This broken dis<a name="page8" id="page8"/>trict
+    was succeeded by a genuine desert, covered with fine dust, which rose, as we rode, in
+    suffocating clouds. Here the valley began to close in upon us and its slopes were
+    sprinkled with great cushion cactuses in strange and grotesque forms. After this
+    desert gorge, we came out into a more open and more fertile district extending to
+    Tehuacan. Even this, however, was dry and sunburned.</p>
+    <p>Our party numbered four. We had written and telegraphed to the padre and expected
+    that he, or Ernst, would meet us in Tehuacan. Neither was there. No one seemed to
+    know just how far it was to Chila. Replies to our inquiries ranged from five to ten
+    leagues.<a name="FNanchor_B_2" id="FNanchor_B_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_B_2"
+    class="fnanchor">[B]</a> Looking for some mode of conveyance, we refused a coach,
+    offered at fifteen pesos, as the price seemed high. Hunting horses, we found four,
+    which with a foot <i>mozo</i> to bring them back, would cost twenty pesos. Telling
+    the owner that we were not buying horses, but merely renting, we returned to the
+    proprietor of the coach and stated that we would take it, though his price was high,
+    and that he should send it without delay to the railroad station, where our
+    companions were waiting. Upon this the owner of the coach pretended that he had not
+    understood that there were four of us (though we had plainly so informed him); his
+    price was for two. If we were four, he must have forty pesos. A fair price here might
+    be eight pesos for the coach, or four for horses. So we told the coach owner that we
+    would walk to Chila, rather than submit to such extortion. This amused him greatly
+    and he made some facetious observations, which determined me to actually perform the
+    trip on foot. Returning to the railroad station, where two of the party were waiting,
+    I announced my intention of walking to Chila; as the way was long and the sand heavy
+    and the padre's silence and non-appearance boded no great hospi<a name="page9" id="page9"/>tality in welcome, I
+    directed the rest to remain comfortably at Tehuacan until my return on the next day.
+    Herman, however, refused the proposition; my scheme was dangerous; for me to go
+    alone, at night, over a strange road, to Chila was foolhardy; he should accompany me
+    to protect me. Consenting that he should accompany, we began to seek a <i>mozo</i>,
+    as guide to Chila. With difficulty, and some loss of time, one was found who would
+    undertake the business for two pesos. In vain a Jew peddler standing by and the
+    station agent remonstrated with the man; two pesos was a full week's wages; it was
+    ridiculous to demand such a price for guiding two foot travellers to Chila. He
+    admitted that two pesos might be a week's wages; but he did not have to go to Chila
+    and if we wanted him to do so we must pay his price. We capitulated, the station
+    agent loaned us a revolver, we left our friends behind us and started on our journey.
+    It was now dark. In a mysterious voice, our guide said we must go first to his house;
+    there he secured his <i>serape</i> and a heavy club. As we left his house he feared
+    we must be hungry and indicated a bread-shop; we purchased and all three ate as we
+    walked; a moment later he suggested that we would need <i>cigarros</i> of course, and
+    a stock of these were added, at our expense. Then, at last, we came down to
+    business.</p>
+    <div class="footnote">
+      <p><a name="Footnote_B_2" id="Footnote_B_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_B_2"><span
+      class="label">[B]</span></a> The Mexican league is 2.7 miles.</p>
+    </div>
+    <p>Plainly our guide did not enjoy his task. Shortly after we started, the moon rose
+    and, from its shining full on the light sand, it was almost as bright as day. We were
+    in single file, our guide, Herman, and I. At sight of every bush or indistinct
+    object, our guide clutched his club and crossed himself, as he mumbled a prayer. When
+    we met anyone, we kept strictly to our side of the road, they to theirs, and, in
+    passing, barely exchanged a word of greeting. The timidity and terror of our guide
+    increased as we advanced, until I concluded to be prepared for any emer<a name="page10" id="page10"/>gency and carried the
+    revolver in my hand, instead of in my pocket. Mile after mile we trudged along
+    through the heavy sand, into which we sunk so far that our low shoes repeatedly
+    became filled and we had to stop to take them off and empty them. We passed through
+    San Pablo, left the Hacienda of San Andres to one hand, and, finally, at 10:10 found
+    ourselves in the great indian town of San Gabriel de Chila. It was much larger than
+    we had anticipated and almost purely indian. We walked through a considerable portion
+    of the town before we reached the plaza, the church, and the <i>curato</i>. Our
+    journey had probably been one of fifteen miles. All was dark at the <i>curato</i>; an
+    indian was sleeping in the corridor, but he was a traveller and gave us no
+    information on being awakened. At our third or fourth pounding upon the door, Ernst
+    appeared at the window; on learning who we were he hastened to let us in. He reported
+    trouble in the camp; the padre had gone hastily to Oaxaca to see the archbishop; our
+    telegram had not been received; our letter came that morning. We found that things
+    were packed ready for removal. A good supper was soon ready, but while it was being
+    prepared we took a cool bath, by moonlight, in the trough bath-tub out in the
+    <i>patio</i>.</p>
+    <p>In the morning we heard the full story. Formerly there was here a priest, who
+    devoted his whole life to this parish, growing old in its service; in his old age he
+    was pensioned, with sixty pesos monthly from the parish receipts. The priest who
+    succeeded him, coming something over three years ago, was a much younger man. During
+    his three years of service, he was continually grumbling; the work was hard, his
+    health was bad at Chila, the heat was intolerable; he wished another parish. The
+    archbishop finally took him at his word; without warning he transferred him to
+    another parish, and sent our friend, the archaeologist here, <a
+    name="page11" id="page11"/>in his place. This did not suit the man
+    relieved; Chila itself was much to his liking; what he really wanted was to be
+    relieved from the support of his superannuated predecessor. No sooner was he
+    transferred than he began to look with longing on his former charge and to make a
+    vigorous effort to regain it. Accusations were hurried to Oaxaca; the new priest was
+    pursuing agriculture as a means of profit; he had not paid the dues to the aged
+    priest; he had himself admitted to parishioners that his object in coming to Chila
+    was more to study antiquities and natural history than to preach the gospel. It is
+    claimed that, immediately on receiving this communication, the archbishop sent a
+    peremptory letter to the padre demanding an explanation; this letter, Ernst said,
+    never was delivered, hence no explanation was sent. The prelate acted promptly;
+    orders were sent to our friend to give up the parish to the former priest, who
+    appeared on the scene to receive his charge. Then, and then only, it is said the
+    delayed letter came to light. The padre had left, at once, for Oaxaca and his
+    archbishop. From there he sent messages by telegraph: "Pack up, and come to
+    Tehuacan;" "Wait until you hear further." A third came the morning we were there:
+    "Pack up; meet me at Tehuacan, ready to go to a new parish."</p>
+    <p>It was really sad to look about the new home, to which he had come with such
+    buoyant hopes and of which he had been so soon dispossessed. When he arrived, the
+    place was neglected and filthy; two whole days were necessary to clean it. It had
+    contained practically no furniture; he had made it look like a place in which to
+    live. He had improved and beautified its surroundings. He had planted a little corn
+    and set out some young banana trees; he had gathered many species of cactus from the
+    neighboring hills and had built up a fine bed of the strange plants in his
+    <i>patio</i>.<a name="page12" id="page12"/>
+    Passionately fond of pets, he had two magnificent greyhounds and a pug&mdash;all
+    brought from Guatemala&mdash;a black collie, doves, hens and turkeys on the place.
+    And now, he was again without a home and his time, money, and labor were lost.</p>
+    <p>Ernst accompanied us to Tehuacan. We rented three horses and a man on foot went
+    with us to bring them back to the village. And for the whole we paid the regular
+    price of eighty-seven centavos&mdash;twenty-five each for the animals, and twelve
+    centavos for the man&mdash;something less than the twenty pesos demanded the day
+    before at Tehuacan.</p>
+    <hr style="width: 65%;" />
+    <h2><a name="CHAPTER_II" id="CHAPTER_II"></a> CHAPTER II</h2>
+    <a name="page13" id="page13"/>
+    <h2>WE START FOR GUATEMALA</h2>
+    <h3>(1896)</h3>
+    <p>The evening we were at Mitla, Se&ntilde;or Quiero came hurrying to our room and
+    urged us to step out to the corridor before the house to see some Mixes. It was our
+    first glimpse of representatives of this little known mountain people. Some thirty of
+    them, men and women, loaded with fruit, coffee, and charcoal, were on their way to
+    the great fair and market, at Tlacolula. They had now stopped for the night and had
+    piled their burdens against the wall. Wrapping themselves in their tattered and dirty
+    blankets, they laid themselves down on the stone floor, so close together that they
+    reminded me of sardines in a box. With a blazing splinter of fat pine for torch, we
+    made our inspection. Their broad dark faces, wide flat noses, thick lips and
+    projecting jaws, their coarse clothing, their filthiness, their harsh and guttural
+    speech, profoundly impressed me and I resolved to penetrate into their country and
+    see them in their homes, at the first opportunity.</p>
+    <p>Our friend the padre never tired of telling how much more interesting Guatemala
+    was than Mexico; he could not understand why any man of sense should waste his time
+    in Mexico, a land so large that a dozen students could not begin to solve its
+    problems, while Guatemala, full of interesting ruins and crowded with attractive
+    Indians, was of such size that one man's lifetime could count for something. His
+    tales of indian towns, life, dress, customs, kindled enthusiasm; but it was only
+    after thinking over the Mixes, <a name="page14"
+    id="page14"/>that I decided to make a journey to Guatemala. The padre,
+    himself, could not accompany me, being a political refugee, but he had told me Ernst
+    should go with me. After three months' consideration my plan was made. We would start
+    from Oaxaca overland via the Mixes country; we would everywhere keep in the
+    mountains; in Chiapas we would completely avoid the usual highway, hot and dusty,
+    near the coast; in Guatemala itself, we would go by Nenton, Huehuetenango and Nibaj.
+    This did not suit the padre: he had had in mind a journey all rail and steamer; and
+    friends, long resident in Mexico, shook their heads and spoke of fatigues and
+    dangers. But I was adamant; the Mixes drew me; we would go overland, on horse, or not
+    at all.</p>
+    <p>When the Padre left Chila, he took a letter of recommendation from the Archbishop
+    of Oaxaca to the Bishop of Vera Cruz at Jalapa. By him, the padre was located at
+    Medellin, a few miles from Vera Cruz itself. Thither I journeyed to join Ernst and
+    make the final preparations for the journey. Ernst met me at the station at 6:30 in
+    the evening and we stayed the night in the hot, mosquito-tortured, plague-stricken
+    city. Leaving at eight o'clock in the morning we were at Medellin in an hour. Our
+    journey was through low, swampy ground on which the chief growth was of palm. The
+    padre, whom we had not seen since we parted at Oaxaca, met us at the station and took
+    us at once to his house. The town is small, the population a miserable mixture of
+    black, white, and indian elements. Few of the couples living there have been legally
+    married. The parish is one of the worst in the whole diocese. The bishop warned the
+    padre that it was an undesirable field, but it was the only one then unoccupied. But
+    the padre was working wonders and the church was then undergoing repairs and
+    decorations. The actual <i>curato</i> was long ago seized by the government and is
+    now used as a schoolhouse. The priest lived in a rented house close by the river
+    bank. The house is a double one and the priest occupied but half of it; those in the
+    other half were hostile to him and he was anxious to rent the whole place. His
+    neighbors, however, did not care to leave and threatened vengeance; they were behind
+    a mass of accusations filed against him with the bishop. His friends rallied to his
+    support, sent in a strong endorsement, and he remained. The padre had been
+    industrious while here. Behind his house is the little river, with a bath-house built
+    over it; crossing in a dugout canoe we found his garden flourishing, filled with
+    fresh vegetables. The family of pets had grown; Baldur, Freia, Votan, Doxil&mdash;the
+    dogs&mdash;were here as at Chila, but he also had fantail and capuchin pigeons, hens
+    and chicks, ducks and geese, canary birds, and native birds in cages. Here also were
+    archaeological relics, plants, beetles and birds for gathering. And here too, for the
+    first time, I had the opportunity of examining his great collection of Ecuadorean
+    humming-birds and a magnificent lot of Guatemalan quetzal skins, among them probably
+    the finest ever collected.</p>
+    <p><a name="page15" id="page15"/></p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image003a.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>THE PADRE'S HOUSE; MEDELLIN</b></p>
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image003b.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>THE CHURCH; MEDELLIN</b></p>
+<br />
+
+
+    <p>We left Medellin on January 8th; went by rail to Puebla, then to Oaxaca. Here we
+    found our friend Doctor Hyde, of Silao, who was nursing Lucius Smith, in what proved
+    to be a final illness. He aided us in finding animals and completing preparations for
+    our journey. We secured a large bay horse for myself, a roan for Ernst, a little mule
+    for baggage. For my own part, I dislike mules; Ernst and the doctor, however, were
+    loud in their praise of such a beast; both asserted that a good mule should sell for
+    double its cost on our arrival at Guatemala City. When, finally, after inspecting a
+    variety of animals we found one lively, young one, the doctor was delighted. Taking
+    me to one side, he informed me that such an opportunity was unlikely <a name="page16" id="page16"/>to occur again. I
+    yielded and the little mule was ours. We named the three animals Mixe, Zapotec, and
+    Chontal, from three tribes through whose country we expected to pass.</p>
+    <p>The doctor's helpfulness was not confined to advice regarding mules. He insisted
+    upon our buying various supplies, such as boxes of sardines, sago, coffee, etc., the
+    utility of which appeared neither at the time nor later. Also at his suggestion a
+    quart of whiskey was purchased and carefully divided into two flasks, one for each
+    saddlebag. Most useful of all the doctor's suggestions, and one for which we had
+    reason many times to thank him, was the securing from the governor of a letter to all
+    local authorities in the state, directing them to supply us with the necessities of
+    life, at just prices.</p>
+    <p>We had hoped to start from Oaxaca in the early morning, but it was well on in the
+    afternoon before all arrangements were completed. The doctor and his Mexican friend
+    rode with us to Tule to see us well started. It was out over the old road to Mitla.
+    The afternoon was hot, dust was deep, and a heavy wind blew it up into our faces in
+    clouds. The sun was already setting when we rode into Santa Maria Tule, and we went
+    at once to see the famous cypress tree, which no one in the party, save myself, had
+    seen. It seems now to be a single tree, but was perhaps, originally, three; at
+    present it displays a single, vast trunk, buttressed with heavy irregular projecting
+    columns. So irregular is this enormous mass that no two persons taking its girth
+    exactly agree. We measured it four feet above the ground and made the circumference
+    one hundred and sixty feet. The mass of delicate green foliage above was compact,
+    vigorous, and beautiful. Many years ago Humboldt cut a rectangular piece of bark from
+    the old trunk and on the smooth surface thus exposed carved an inscription with his
+    name.</p>
+    <p><a name="page17" id="page17"/></p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image004a.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>THE RAIN GOD; FROM THE CHURCH OF MIXISTLAN</b></p>
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image004b.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>THE GREAT TREE AT TULE</b></p>
+<br />
+
+
+    <p>Bark has since grown over the sides and corners of this tablet, but much of the
+    inscription may still be read. Since Humboldt's visit many lesser men have gashed the
+    old tree to leave their mark.</p>
+    <p>As it was now darkening we hurried to the <i>meson</i> of the village. The old
+    lady in charge received us with suspicion; she could not feed us and refused to
+    receive us into the house for the night; she would permit us to sleep outside, in the
+    corridor&mdash;which we might have done without asking permission. At this moment,
+    the doctor's friend remembered that he knew a man here and went out to reconnoitre;
+    he soon returned and led us to his friend's house, where we were well received. A
+    supper of eggs, <i>tortillas</i>, and chocolate was soon served. Before we had
+    finished the moon had risen and by its light the doctor and his friend started on
+    their return to town. We slept on beds, made of boards laid upon sawhorses, in a
+    grain store-room, where rats were running around all night long.</p>
+    <p>The next day, we were again at Mitla. It was a festival day, that of the
+    Conversion of St. Paul the Apostle. In the evening there were rockets, the band
+    played, and a company of drummers and <i>chirimiya</i> blowers went through the town.
+    Se&ntilde;or Quiero had fires of blazing pine knots at the door. When the procession
+    passed we noted its elements. In front was the band of ten boys; men with curious
+    standards mounted on poles followed. The first of these standards was a figure, in
+    strips of white and pink tissue paper, of a long-legged, long-necked, long-billed
+    bird, perhaps a heron; next stars of colored paper, with lights inside; then were
+    large globes, also illuminated, three of white paper and three in the national
+    colors&mdash;red, white, and green. Grandest of all, however, was a globular banner
+    of cloth on which was painted a startling picture of the saint's conversion. All of
+    these were carried high in the air and kept rotating.<a
+    name="page18" id="page18"/> Behind the standard bearers came a drummer
+    and the player on the shrill pipe or <i>pito&mdash;chirimiya</i>. The procession
+    stopped at Se&ntilde;or Quiero's <i>tienda</i>, and the old man opened both his heart
+    and his bottles; spirits flowed freely to all who could crowd into the little shop
+    and bottles and packs of <i>cigarros</i> were sent out to the standard-bearers. As a
+    result we were given a vigorous explosion of rockets, and several pieces by the band,
+    the drummer, and the <i>pitero</i>.</p>
+    <p>Beyond Mitla the valley narrows and the road rises onto a gently sloping terrace;
+    when it strikes the mountains it soon becomes a bridle-path zigzagging up the
+    cliffside. As we mounted by it, the valley behind expanded magnificently under our
+    view. We passed through a belt of little oak trees, the foliage of which was
+    purple-red, like the autumnal coloring of our own forests. Higher up we reached the
+    pine timber. As soon as we reached the summit, the lovely valley view was lost and we
+    plunged downward, even more abruptly than we had mounted, along the side of a rapidly
+    deepening gorge. At the very mouth of this, on a pretty terrace, we came abruptly on
+    the little town of San Lorenzo with palm-thatched huts of brush or cane and well
+    grown hedges of <i>organo</i> cactus. Here we ate <i>tortillas</i> and fried-eggs
+    with chili. Immediately on setting out from here we rode over hills, the rock of
+    which was deeply stained with rust and streaked with veins of quartz, up to a crest
+    of limestone covered with a crust of stalagmite.</p>
+    <p>The road up to this summit was not good, but that down the other side was
+    <i>bad</i>. The irregular, great blocks of limestone, covered with the smooth, dry,
+    slippery coating, caused constant stumbling to our poor animals. From this valley we
+    rose onto a yet grander range. Here we had our first Mixe experience. At the very
+    summit, where the road became for a little time level, before plunging down into the
+    profound valley beyond, we met two Indians, plainly Mixes. Both were bareheaded, and
+    both wore the usual dirty garments&mdash;a cotton shirt over a pair of cotton
+    trousers, the legs of which were rolled up to the knees or higher. The younger of the
+    men bore a double load, as he had relieved his companion. The old man's face was
+    scratched and torn, his hands were smeared with blood and blood stained his shirt. We
+    cried an "<i>adios</i>" and the old man kissed my hand, while the younger, pointing
+    to his friend said "<i>Sangre, Se&ntilde;or, sangre</i>" (Blood, sir, blood.)
+    Vigorously they told the story of the old man's misfortune, but in incomprehensible
+    Spanish. While they spoke three others like them, each bent under his burden came up
+    onto the ridge. These kissed my hand and then, excitedly pointing to the old man, all
+    talking at once, tried to tell his story. Having expressed our sympathy, we left the
+    five looking after us, the old man, with his torn and bleeding face, being well in
+    the foreground.</p>
+    <p><a name="page19" id="page19"/></p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image005a.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>THE START FROM OAXACA</b></p>
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image005b.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>THE CELEBRATION AT MITLA</b></p>
+<br />
+
+
+    <p>Down in the valley, across a little stream, we struck into a pleasant meadow road
+    leading to the Hacienda of San Bartolo. Suddenly, before us, in the road, we saw a
+    man lying. We thought he was dead. He was a young man, an indian in the usual dress,
+    apparently a Zapotec. His face was bloody and his shirt was soaked in front with
+    blood, which had trickled down upon the ground forming a pool in which he lay. We
+    could see no deep wound, but, as he lay upon his side, there may have been such. Near
+    him in the road there lay a knife, the blade covered with blood. The man lay
+    perfectly still, but we fancied we could see a slight movement of the chest. In
+    Mexico, it is best not to investigate too closely, because the last to touch a
+    murdered man may be held responsible for his death. So we hurried on toward the
+    <i>hacienda</i> but, before reaching it, met two girls about nineteen years of age
+    and a little lad all Zapotecs. We told them what we had seen and bade <a name="page20" id="page20"/>them notify the
+    authorities. One of the girls cried, "<i>Si, Se&ntilde;or, es mi hermano</i>" ("Yes,
+    sir, it is my brother"), and they ran down the road. As for us, we hurried onward,
+    without stopping at the <i>hacienda</i>, in order not to be delayed or held as
+    witnesses.</p>
+    <p>There is no love between the Zapotecs and Mixes. We never learned the actual
+    story, but imagined it somewhat as follows. The old Mixe, carrying his burden, had
+    probably encountered the young Zapotec and had words with him. Probably there had
+    been blows, and the old man was having the worst of it when his companions came along
+    and turned the tide of battle.</p>
+    <p>The road, after passing the <i>hacienda</i>, ascended almost constantly for many
+    miles. We passed clumps of yuccas. As we mounted we faced a strong and cutting wind,
+    and were glad when any turn in the road gave us a moment's relief. The final ascent
+    was sharp and difficult, up a hill of red or purple slate, which splintered into bits
+    that were both slippery and sharp to the feet of our poor animals. Just as the sun
+    was setting and dusk fell, we reached the miserable pueblo of Santa Maria Albarradas.
+    It was situated on a terrace or shelf, and its little houses were made of red or
+    purple adobe bricks, and thatched with grass. Little garden patches and groups of
+    cultivated trees surrounded the houses. The church was little larger than the
+    dwellings, and was constructed of the same clay, thatched with the same grass. Near
+    it was the town-house. We summoned the <i>presidente</i>, and while we waited for
+    him, the men, women, and children of the town thronged around us and watched our
+    every movement, commenting the while on our actions and words. When the
+    <i>presidente</i> came, we made known our wants and soon had supper for ourselves,
+    food for our animals, a shelter for the night, and a <i>mozo</i> as guide for the
+    morrow. The town-house was put <a name="page21"
+    id="page21"/>at our disposition; it was sadly in need of repairs, and
+    consisted of two rooms, one larger than the other. In the larger room there was a
+    long and heavy table, a bench or two, and some wooden chairs. We slept upon the
+    ground, and long before we rolled ourselves up in our blankets the wind was blowing
+    squarely from the north. The sky was half covered with a heavy black cloud; as the
+    night advanced, it became colder and colder, the wind cutting like a knife, and while
+    we shivered in our blankets, it seemed as if we had been born to freeze there in the
+    tropics.</p>
+    <hr style="width: 65%;" />
+    <h2><a name="CHAPTER_III" id="CHAPTER_III"></a>CHAPTER III</h2>
+    <a name="page22" id="page22"/>
+    <h2>THE LAND OF THE MIXES</h2>
+    <h3>(1896)</h3>
+    <p>Santa Maria was the last Zapotec town; we were on the border of the country of the
+    Mixes. Starting at seven next morning, we followed a dizzy trail up the mountain side
+    to the summit. Beyond that the road went down and up many a slope. A norther was on;
+    cold wind swept over the crest, penetrating and piercing; cloud masses hung upon the
+    higher summits; and now and again sheets of fine, thin mist were swept down upon us
+    by the wind; this mist was too thin to darken the air, but on the surface of the
+    driving sheets rainbows floated. The ridge, which for a time we followed, was covered
+    with a thicket of purple-leaved oaks, which were completely overgrown with bromelias
+    and other air-plants. From here, we passed into a mountain country that beggars
+    description. I know and love the Carolina mountains&mdash;their graceful forms, their
+    sparkling streams and springs, the lovely sky stretched above them; but the
+    millionaires are welcome to their "land of the sky"; we have our land of the Mixes,
+    and to it they will never come. The mountains here are like those of Carolina, but
+    far grander and bolder; here the sky is more amply extended. There, the slopes are
+    clad with rhododendrons and azaleas, with the flowering shrub, with strawberries
+    gleaming amid grass; here we have rhododendrons also, in clusters that scent the air
+    with the odor of cloves, and display sheets of pink and purple bloom; here we have
+    magnificent tree-ferns, with <a name="page23"
+    id="page23"/>trunks that rise twenty feet into the air and unroll from
+    their summits fronds ten feet in length; fifty kinds of delicate terrestrial ferns
+    display themselves in a single morning ride; here are palms with graceful foliage;
+    here are orchids stretching forth sprays&mdash;three or four feet long&mdash;toward
+    the hand for plucking; here are pine-trees covering slopes with fragrant fallen
+    needles. A striking feature is the different flora on the different slopes of a
+    single ridge. Here, too, are bubbling springs, purling brooks, dashing cascades, the
+    equals of any in the world. And hither the tourist, with his destroying touch, will
+    never come.</p>
+    <p>We had thought to find our wild Mixes living in miserable huts among the rocks,
+    dressed in scanty native garb, leading half wild lives. We found good clearings on
+    the hillside; fair fields of maize and peas, gourds and calabashes; cattle grazed in
+    the meadows; fowls and turkeys were kept; the homes were log-houses, substantially
+    built, in good condition, in neat enclosures; men and women, the latter in European
+    dress, were busied with the duties of their little farms. Clearing after clearing in
+    the forest told the same story of industry, thrift, and moderate comfort.</p>
+    <p>After more than five hours of hard travel we reached the Mixe town of Ayutla, and
+    rode at once to the <i>curato</i>. The priest was not at home. It was market-day, and
+    people were in town from all the country round. The men, surprised at sight of
+    strangers, crowded about us; some gazed at us with angry glances, others eyed us with
+    dark suspicion, some examined us with curious and even friendly interest. Many of
+    them spoke little or no Spanish. Thronging about us they felt our clothing, touched
+    our skins, saddles, baggage, and exhibited childish curiosity. The women at the
+    <i>curato</i> spoke Spanish, of course; we told them we should <a name="page24" id="page24"/>stay there for a day or
+    two, and sent out for the <i>presidente</i>. On his coming, we explained to him our
+    business and asked leave to occupy the <i>curato</i> in the absence of the
+    priest.</p>
+    <p>Ayutla is situated on a high terrace, before which opens a lovely valley and
+    behind which rises a fine mountain slope. The village church, while large, is
+    roofless; the town-house lies below the village, and by it are two jails for men and
+    women. The houses of the village are small, rectangular structures of a
+    red-brown-ochre adobe brick; the roofs slope from in front backward, and are covered
+    with red tiles they project in front so as to cover a little space before the
+    house.</p>
+    <p>By evening most of the indians in the town were drunk. At sunset a miserable
+    procession started from the church, passed through the village, and then returned to
+    the church; composed mostly of women, it was preceded by a band of music and the men
+    who carried the <i>santito</i>. Later, we heard most disconsolate strains, and, on
+    examination, found four musicians playing in front of the old church; three of them
+    had curious, extremely long, old-fashioned horns of brass, while the fourth had a
+    drum or <i>tambour</i>. The <i>tambour</i> was continuously played, while the other
+    instruments were alternated in the most curious fashion. The music was strange and
+    wierd, unlike any that we had ever heard before. However, we became thoroughly
+    familiar with it before we had traversed the whole Mixe country, as we heard it twice
+    daily, at sunrise and after sunset. It was the music of the Candelaria, played during
+    the nine days preceding February 2d. As we sat listening to the music the
+    <i>presidente</i> of the town appeared. His Spanish, at no time adequate, was now at
+    its worst, as he was sadly intoxicated. We tried to carry on a conversation with him,
+    but soon seeing that naught but disaster could be expected, if we continued, we
+    discreetly withdrew to our room.</p>
+    <p><a name="page25" id="page25"/></p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image006a.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>A STREET IN SAN LORENZO</b></p>
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image006b.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>AYUTLA</b></p>
+<br />
+
+
+
+    <p>There we found the <i>fiscal</i>, and I have rarely seen so drunk an official.
+    When drunk, he is violent and abusive, and it was plain that the women at the
+    <i>curato</i> were afraid of him. More than one hundred and fifty years ago Padre
+    Quintana, who was the mission priest at Juquila, translated the <i>Doctrina</i> into
+    Mixe and wrote a <i>Gramatica</i> of the language, both of which were then printed.
+    We wished to secure copies of these old and rare books, and asked the <i>fiscal</i>
+    if there were any here. He promptly replied that he had one at his house, and invited
+    us to go there with him to see it. We at once started, and on our way had to pass the
+    drunken <i>presidente</i> and the musicians. As we drew near them the
+    <i>presidente</i>, with drunken dignity, rose and said: "Where are you going,
+    Se&ntilde;ores?" The <i>fiscal</i> was for going directly onward without giving
+    answer; we hesitated and began a reply. Our delay was fatal; staggering up to us, his
+    Honor said: "I shall not permit you to go; this man is drunk; he will be dangerous. I
+    am responsible for your safety." The <i>fiscal</i>, standing at a little distance,
+    cried: "Se&ntilde;ores! shall we go?" We started toward him; the <i>presidente</i>
+    interfered: "No, Se&ntilde;ores, you shall not go to-night; the man is drunk; return
+    to your house." "<i>V&aacute;monos</i>," (Let us go) hiccoughed the <i>fiscal.
+    "Ma&ntilde;ana</i>," (to-morrow) hiccoughed the <i>presidente</i>. The <i>fiscal</i>
+    stormed; the <i>presidente</i> threatened him with jail, ordered him home, and with a
+    body-guard for our protection led us to our room. Scarcely able to totter, the
+    <i>presidente</i> assured us that drunken men were dangerous and ought not to be
+    trusted; at the same time he produced his bottle and offered us a drop to warm us. It
+    required tact and time to get rid of him and his corps of protectors. Early the next
+    morning both of these worthy officials, <i>presidente</i> and <i>fiscal</i>, still
+    drunk, called upon us with the book&mdash;a <i>Doctrina</i> of 1729. With the
+    <i>presidente</i> were two stalwart fel<a name="page26"
+    id="page26"/>lows, intended, as he whispered to us audibly, to handle
+    the <i>fiscal</i> in case he became dangerous. The audience ended, and the party
+    dismissed, the <i>presidente</i> stood in the road until the <i>fiscal</i> had
+    started for home, when he left for the town-house. The <i>fiscal's</i> home-going,
+    however, was mere pretense. No sooner was the <i>presidente</i> gone than he came
+    staggering into the <i>patio</i> of the <i>curato</i>. The women ran into our room,
+    in terror: "The <i>fiscal</i> comes; bar the door; do not let him in." A moment later
+    a feeble rap at the door, a call and a mournful request for admission; the barricaded
+    door gave no encouragement. At intervals through the morning there came the flying
+    maids: "He comes! don't let him in." Again and again the barricade; again and again,
+    the vain appeal for entrance. We left Ayutla at noon. We had scarcely well started
+    when we heard some one calling behind us. Turning, we saw the <i>fiscal</i>, running
+    unsteadily toward us. We waited; he came up out of breath. "<i>Ya se va</i>?" (Now
+    you are leaving?) "<i>Si, se&ntilde;or</i>," (Yes, sir.) With a look of despair he
+    removed his hat, and fumbling in its depths produced two cigarettes; presenting one
+    to each of us, he waved his hand as we rode away and cried: "<i>Adios!
+    se&ntilde;ores</i>."</p>
+    <p>For some distance our road led up a ca&ntilde;on. Reaching its head, we gained the
+    pass at two o'clock. A wonderful sight here presented itself. Above us was a
+    brilliant blue sky&mdash;cloudless; every detail of the rock crest upon which we
+    stood was clear. Forested to its summit, the ridge formed the half of a magnificent
+    amphitheatre, whose slopes had been vertically furrowed at a hundred points by
+    torrents; to the left a spur projected, the crest of which sloped gently downward,
+    forming an enclosing wall upon that side. Before us, beyond the valley, was a
+    boundary line of mountain masses, sharply outlined against the sky. Lower ridges,
+    nearer to us, paralleled this distant rampart. The <a
+    name="page27" id="page27"/>only apparent outlet from this valley was
+    around the spur to our left. Looking down upon this magnificent valley, we saw it
+    occupied by a sea of clouds, the level surface of which looked like a lake of water
+    flecked here and there with whitecaps. The higher hills within the valley rose like
+    islands from the water; to the left a mighty river seemed to flow around the spur,
+    out into a boundless sea of cloud beyond. The level surface of this lake, river, and
+    sea of clouds was hundreds of feet below us.</p>
+    <p>From this summit, our trail plunged downward into this sea of mists. When we
+    reached its upper surface, which was plainly defined, little wisps of mist or cloud
+    were streaming up along the furrowed channels of the mountain walls. As we entered
+    the lake of cloud the sunlight became fainter, uprushes of cold mists struck us,
+    gloom settled, denser and denser grew the fog, drops of condensed vapor dripped from
+    the trees under which we passed. At the bottom of the valley, we could scarcely see a
+    dozen yards in any direction. We were passing along meadows, like those of New
+    England, with brakes, sunflowers, and huckleberries; here and there were little
+    fields of wheat or peas. The fog was too dense for us to know whether we lost fine
+    scenery. We saw nothing of the little villages through which we passed. On and on we
+    plunged along the trail, until it began an ascent of a ridge, almost like a
+    knife-edge, with steep slopes on both sides. When we had reached the summit of this
+    ridge, we found the trail level, through a growth of oak trees which were loaded with
+    bromelias and orchids. Though still dim, the light had brightened as we rose to
+    higher levels. Graceful ferns and sprays of terrestrial orchids overhung our trail at
+    every cutting or slope. One spray, which I plucked as I rode under it, was more than
+    a yard in length, and its curiously colored brown and yellow flowers were strangely
+    like insects in form. At <a name="page28"
+    id="page28"/>one level summit of our ridge, we came upon a little
+    whitewashed building of adobe, dome-topped, with no windows and but one little door.
+    Pushing this open, I entered through a doorway so narrow that I had to remove my hat,
+    and so low that I was forced to bend, and found myself in a little shrine with a
+    cross and pictures of two or three saints, before which were plain vases filled with
+    fresh flowers, the offerings of travelers. We added our spray of orchids before we
+    resumed our journey.</p>
+    <p>For three hours, during which no distant view had delighted our eyes, we had
+    traveled in the mists; we had almost forgotten that the sun could shine. At the end
+    of a long, narrow ridge, where it joined the greater mountain mass, we found a
+    rest-house. Here the trail turned abruptly onto the larger ridge, mounted sharply
+    through a dugway, and then to our complete surprise emerged into the fair sunlight.
+    The clear, blue sky was over us, and directly below us, at our horses' feet, was the
+    flat top of the sea of clouds. A moment more and we rose to a point of view from
+    which the grandest view of a lifetime burst upon our vision. Opposite, the evening
+    sun was nearing the horizon, before and below us lay the valley; we were upon the
+    very edge of a great mountain slope. To our right lay the cloud mass, which was all
+    in movement, precipitating itself down the slope into the profound valley. It was a
+    river of vapors, more than two miles, perhaps, in width, plunging, perhaps, two
+    thousand feet into the abyss. Niagara, which I have often seen, is a pigmy cataract
+    in comparison. The cloud mass tossed and heaved, whirled and poured in one enormous
+    sheet over the precipice, breaking into spray as it struck against projecting rock
+    masses. Every movement of whirling and plunging water was there; the rapid above the
+    fall, the plunge, the whirlpool, the wild rush of whirlpool rapids, all were there,
+    but all silent,<a name="page29" id="page29"/>
+    fearfully and impressively silent. We could have stood there gazing for hours, but
+    night was coming and a stretch of unknown road still lay before us. At the other end
+    of the valley, in the dusk of early evening, we saw a second cataract pouring in.
+    From both ends the cloud rivers were rushing in to fill the valley, along the edge of
+    which we crept. And presently we plunged down again into the mists; night fell; our
+    trail was barely visible, and we had to trust to our horses to find it; the air was
+    cold and penetrating. Long after dark, we rode into Juquila.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image007a.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>CLOUD CATARACT; NEAR JUQUILA</b></p>
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image007b.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>DANCERS IN THE DANZA DE LA CONQUISTA;  JUQUILA</b></p>
+<br />
+
+
+    <p>The <i>cura</i> had gone to bed; the <i>meson</i> had no room for us and no food
+    for our horses; our case seemed desperate. We heard, however, noisy laughter and the
+    loud voices of men drinking. So I begged Ernst to seek the <i>presidente</i> and tell
+    him our needs while I looked after the animals. The official was at the
+    <i>tienda</i>, drinking with his friends. Ernst made known our wishes, producing our
+    letter from the governor. At this, the <i>presidente</i> became furious: "Who is this
+    with orders from the governor? Let me kill him," and with that he drew his
+    <i>machete</i> and made at Ernst. Some of his less-intoxicated friends restrained
+    him, and Ernst, concluding that the moment was not propitious, returned to me. After
+    other fruitless efforts to get food for ourselves and animals we resigned ourselves
+    to our fate, and lay down upon the stone floor of the corridor outside the
+    <i>meson</i>, with a crowd of sleeping indians as companions.</p>
+    <p>Very early in the morning, all the town officials, except the <i>presidente</i>,
+    came to apologize for the occurrence of the night. They announced that the
+    <i>presidente</i>, realizing what he had done, had taken to the mountains, and asked
+    what they could do for us. We ordered fodder for our hungry beasts, food for
+    ourselves, and a place of shelter. The town-house was offered to us, and we were
+    moved into those quarters with due ceremony.<a name="page30"
+    id="page30"/></p>
+    <p>Although we stayed several days at Juquila, the <i>presidente</i> did not return,
+    during our presence, to resume his duties of office. We were, however, well treated.
+    The <i>cura</i> aided us with advice, information, and helpers. While we were in the
+    village the <i>danza de la Conquista</i> took place. It is a popular play, with much
+    dancing and music, and little action or dialogue, which celebrates the Conquest of
+    Mexico by Cortez. It was rendered in the shade of a great tree near the church. In
+    the first act, nine men and two girls took part; in the second act, there were many
+    others. The nine men and two girls represented Indians; they wore crowns with plumes
+    of snow-white down; in their hands they carried a rattle, made from the fruit of a
+    tree and a wand of white down, with which they beat time. One man, representing
+    Montezuma, had a crown of brilliantly colored plumes. The other eight men were
+    warriors; the two girls were "<i>Malinches</i>." The first act consisted of a series
+    of dances, including a very pretty maypole dance. The play lasted about three hours,
+    and represented the life of the indians before the Conquest&mdash;Montezuma in his
+    court, with the amusements celebrated for his entertainment. Hearing of the arrival
+    of the Spaniards, he is filled with sad forebodings, which the amusements fail to
+    dispel. In the second act, Hernando Cortez appears, with soldiers. While the costumes
+    of the indians were gay, and more or less attractive, those of these European
+    warriors were ludicrously mongrel and unbecoming. The new-comers demanded that
+    Montezuma acknowledge the authority of the King of Spain and the cross of Christ.
+    Conversations, demands, replies, tableaus, sword-dances, etc., ensued. Finally,
+    Montezuma and his warriors yielded, and kissed the crucifix.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image008.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>ROAD APPROACHING QUEZALTEPEC</b></p>
+<br />
+
+    <p>While this drama was being enacted under the shade-tree, another amusement, in
+    connection with the <i>fiesta of</i> <a name="page31"
+    id="page31"/><i>San Marcos</i>, was in progress in front of the
+    church. The musicians with the long horns made doleful music; a dozen gayly-costumed
+    dancers took part. They wore dark trousers slitted up the sides; bright kerchiefs,
+    with the point hanging down in front, were tied about the waists; crowns of plumes
+    were on the heads; red vests and kerchiefs, crossed at the neck, completed the
+    costume. One player, who seemed to be a leader, carried a tri-colored flag; another
+    represented a man on horseback, by creeping into a frame of sticks, covered with
+    cloth, in the shape of a horse. They danced in the full sunlight for hours; their
+    movements were varied and pretty, quite different, too, from the figures in the
+    <i>danza de la Conquista</i>. Two outside characters played the clown. One of these
+    was a little lad dressed in a garment representing a tiger-skin, while over his face
+    he wore a heavy, old wooden mask, imitating an animal's head. The other was older,
+    dressed in a leather suit, with a wooden mask like a vacant-looking human face. These
+    two were very popular, and indulged in many acts that bordered on the obscene. We got
+    no satisfactory explanation of this whole performance. The <i>cura</i> said that it
+    represented the conflict between Christ and the Jews; this we greatly doubted.</p>
+    <p>Mixe roads avoid no mountains, and usually go straight up one slope and down the
+    other. The Mixe villages are set upon the very crests, or upon little terraces a few
+    hundred feet below the crest, or the summit of some spur that juts out from the great
+    mountain mass, of a long and narrow ridge. The road from Juquila, by Ocotopec to
+    Quezaltepec was beautiful and typical. The ascent, just before Quezaltepec, was
+    magnificent. We had a letter of introduction from the <i>cura</i> at Juquila to the
+    schoolteacher at Quezaltepec, and therefore rode directly to the school. The four
+    boys who were in attendance were promptly dis<a name="page32"
+    id="page32"/>missed and the <i>maestro</i> was at our disposition. He
+    was a <i>mestizo</i>, and possessed the art of lying in a fine degree, like so many
+    of his kind. This man set us an excellent supper, having asked us beforehand what we
+    would like. We replied that we would be glad to have fresh meat, if there was any to
+    be had. He replied, "There is always fresh meat here; someone kills every day." It
+    really appeared in the dinner, but, as we ate it, our host remarked&mdash;"Gentlemen,
+    it is indeed lucky that you arrived here just now, because to-night we have fresh
+    meat, and like enough a month will pass before anyone in town kills again." Our
+    teacher friend fully appreciated his opportunity, and we paid a large price for our
+    meal, with its fresh meat, our beds on the school benches, and the fodder supplied
+    our horses. The next day being Saturday, the <i>maestro</i> offered to accompany us
+    to Ixcuintepec, where his half-brother, the local teacher, would welcome our coming
+    and arrange for our entertainment.</p>
+    <p>Passing Camotlan, we entered a magnificent gorge, along one side of which we
+    climbed, passing in front of lovely cascades and having magnificent outlooks. While
+    we were on this trail, we encountered the <i>maestro</i> from Ixcuintepec, who was on
+    his way to Quezaltepec to spend his holiday. A whispered word with his half-brother,
+    our companion, quickly changed his plan, and he accompanied us. Upon this trail we
+    found our first swinging foot-bridges made of <i>lianas</i>, or vines, hanging from
+    trees. These are, of course, only suitable for foot-travellers, but are a great
+    convenience, where streams are likely to be swollen. Two or three long and slender
+    vines, laid side by side and lashed together, form the footway, which is swung from
+    one tree to another; other <i>lianas</i> are stretched across as side rails, smaller
+    vines being twined in between <a name="page33"
+    id="page33"/>and around them to hold them in place; long vines,
+    pendant from the high branches of the supporting trees, are fastened to the upper
+    rails to steady and anchor these frail bridges, which swing and yield with every
+    weight.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image009a.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>TREE FERN IN TROPICAL FOREST;
+QUEZALTEPEC</b></p>
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image009b.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>CASCADE, NEAR QUEZALTEPEC</b></p>
+<br />
+
+
+    <p>Ixcuintepec is upon one of the most abrupt ridges of this whole district. We went
+    first to the schoolhouse, where our animals were to be guarded in a little open space
+    before it; then we walked over to the <i>curato</i> which was being prepared for us.
+    We had ordered <i>zacate</i> (fodder) for our animals and had divided it suitably
+    between them. We ate our own meal, took a turn around the town, and were about to go
+    to our quarters for the night, when Ernst noticed that the fodder, for which we had
+    paid an outrageous price, had completely disappeared from before the two horses,
+    although the pile before the mule had diminished but little. No doubt the two school
+    teachers could have explained this mysterious disappearance; we could not, however,
+    tax them with theft, but we made so much fuss over the matter that the officials
+    brought a new supply. While I went to our room to write up my notes, Ernst sat in the
+    gathering darkness watching the animals, as they ate, to prevent further robbery. I
+    was busily writing, listening now and then to the fierce gusts of a gale that was
+    blowing without, when the door burst open and Ernst, greatly excited, called me to
+    follow, and we hastened to the place where our animals were tied. There we found that
+    the great tree under which Chontal, the little mule, had been feeding, had been torn
+    by the tempest and half of it had fallen upon the animal, bearing it to the ground.
+    The crash had come without a moment's warning. Fortunately, the mule was unhurt,
+    though it could not move until the branches which had crushed it to the earth had
+    been cut away with axes. When we had released the beast and were retiring to our
+    quarters, we saw a sight never to be forgotten. Looking down from our crest into the
+    valley and across upon <a name="page34"
+    id="page34"/>the other ridges and mountains beyond, we saw that the
+    camp-fires of charcoal-burners and wayfarers had been fanned by the winds and spread
+    into the forest until a dozen great lines of blazing trees lit up the landscape in
+    every direction.</p>
+    <p>Our leaving Ixcuintepec in the early morning was not agreeable. The teachers were
+    irritated over the affair of the <i>zacate</i>; the town authorities were
+    dissatisfied with our refusal to pay for two lots of it. There was grumbling, and
+    many dark looks followed us. We were rather glad to get away from the town without a
+    serious outbreak. We were now on the road to the last of the Mixe towns we should
+    visit, Coatlan. The road seemed endless, the ascent interminable; the town itself
+    impressed us as exceptionally mean and squalid, and we stopped only long enough to
+    eat a miserable dinner of eggs with chili and <i>tortillas</i>. The women here wore
+    native dress. Several were clad as the Zapotec women from here to Tehuantepec, but a
+    few were dressed in striking <i>huipilis</i> of native weaving, with embroidered
+    patterns, and had their black hair done up in great rings around their heads, bright
+    strips of cloth or ribbon being intermingled in the braiding. Literally and
+    figuratively shaking the dust of the Mixe towns from our feet, we now descended into
+    the Zapotec country. We were oppressed by a cramped, smothered feeling as we
+    descended from the land of forested mountains and beautiful streams. At evening we
+    reached San Miguel, the first Zapotec settlement, a little group of houses amid
+    coffee plantings.</p>
+    <p>At the first indian house, we asked if we might have shelter for the night. The
+    owner cordially answered, "<i>Como no? se&ntilde;ores</i>," (Why not? sirs). He
+    explained, however, that there was nought to eat. After eating elsewhere, we made our
+    way back to our lodging-place, a typical Zapotec hut, a single room, with dirt-floor,
+    walls of canes or<a name="page35" id="page35"/>
+    poles, and thatch of grass. The house contained a hammock and two beds of poles,
+    comforts we had not known for days. I threw myself into the hammock; Ernst lay down
+    upon one of the beds; the man and woman, squatting, were husking corn for our horses;
+    a little girl was feeding a fire of pine splints, built upon the floor, which served
+    for light. As they worked and we rested the man asked that question which ever seems
+    of supreme importance to Mexican indians, "<i>Como se llama Ud. se&ntilde;or</i>?"
+    (What is your name, sir?). "Ernst," replied our spokesman, to whom the question was
+    addressed. "<i>Y el otro</i>?" (And the other?), pointing to me. I replied for
+    myself, "<i>Federico</i>." The man seemed not to catch the word and badly repeated it
+    after me. "<i>No, no</i>," said the much quicker woman, "<i>Federico! Federico! si,
+    se&ntilde;or, nosotros tenemos un Federico, tambi&eacute;n</i>," (Yes, sir, and we
+    have a Frederick, also). "Ah, and where is he?" "He will come, sir; we have four
+    boys, Luca and Pedrito, Castolo and Federico; Federico is the baby; the little girl,
+    here, is between him and Castolo; they are working in the coffee-field, but they will
+    soon be here." At nine o'clock the little fellows appeared. They lined up in the
+    order of age, placed their hands behind them, and waited to be addressed. Castolo,
+    then about ten years of age, most pleased me, and I asked him, among other things,
+    whether he could read and write. His father answered for him, that he could not read
+    or write; that the opportunities were not good; but that he believed Castolo
+    <i>could</i> learn, that he had a good mind. At this point the mother spoke to her
+    husband in Zapotec. Some argument ensued, in which at last she triumphed. Turning to
+    me, the man said: "She says you may have Castolo; you may take him to your country
+    and there he can learn to read and write and whatever else you wish." It was not
+    altogether easy to refuse this gift; finally I replied that we <a name="page36" id="page36"/>had a long journey ahead
+    and that Castolo would weary on the road; that he had better wait until some later
+    time.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image010a.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>FIESTA OF SAN MARCOS; JUQUILA</b></p>
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image010b.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>BRIDGE OF VINES; NEAR IXCUINTEPEC</b></p>
+<br />
+
+
+    <p>It was now time for the family to dispose of itself for the night. I was already
+    in the hammock and Ernst had one of the pole-beds; the man, his wife, and little
+    Federico occupied the other bed; the little girl and the three older boys climbed, by
+    a notched log, up to a loft constructed of poles or canes on which they laid
+    themselves down. After all were located, the woman barred the door and we were soon
+    asleep.</p>
+    <p>All rose early. Not only did we wish to make an early start, but the boys, too,
+    were to make a journey. Our friends had agreed to make us some coffee and
+    <i>tortillas</i>. We had made our preparations for starting and were waiting for our
+    breakfast, when a shriveled and wrinkled old woman tottered up to beg the strangers
+    to visit her sick son and prescribe some <i>remedio</i>. On our consenting to go with
+    her, she caught up a stick of fat pine, lighted it in the fire, and with this blazing
+    torch to light the way, preceded us to her house. Her son had been a strong and
+    robust young man, but four months of lying upon his pole-bed had sadly reduced him.
+    He was thin and pale, coughed sadly, and suffered with fever, chills, and dreadful
+    headaches. He was taking medicines brought from Tehuantepec, but these seemed to have
+    no effect and we were begged to suggest treatment. We advised continuance of the
+    remedy she had been using, but also prescribed hot water taken in the morning and at
+    night, hot water applications for the headaches, quinine for the chills and fever,
+    and a digestive for the stomach trouble, and furnished these remedies from our own
+    supplies. Having lighted us back to our lodging-place the old lady asked our charge.
+    When we refused to receive payment from the poor creature, we noted an increased
+    activity on the part of our host and hostess; a bit of cheese</p>
+    <a name="page37" id="page37"/> <br />
+     <br />
+
+    <p>was promptly found and added to the waiting coffee and <i>tortillas</i>, and when
+    we called for our own reckoning, we received the hearty response&mdash;"<i>Nada,
+    se&ntilde;or, nada</i>;" (nothing, sir, nothing) "and when you come this way again,
+    come straight to us, our door is always open to you."</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image011.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>SANTIAGO GUEVEA</b></p>
+<br />
+
+
+    <p>We were now ready and found that the three boys, Luca, Pedrito, and Castolo, were
+    waiting to accompany us as far as our roads were the same. They were to go on foot,
+    five leagues, into the mountains to bring back some mules from a camp; they expected
+    to reach their destination that day, to sleep on the mountain, and to bring in the
+    animals the next day. The little fellows, from thirteen to nine or ten years old,
+    seemed to find nothing extraordinary in their undertaking; each carried his little
+    carrying-net, with food, drinking-gourd, and an extra garment for the chilly night,
+    upon his back; Pedrito buckled to his belt the great <i>machete</i>, which men here
+    regularly carry for clearing the path, cutting firewood, or protection against
+    animals. They were very happy at accompanying us for a distance. We soon rose from
+    the low, malarial, coffee <i>fincas</i> onto a fine mountain, which was the last of
+    its kind that we saw for many days; it was like the mountains of the Mixes, with its
+    abundant vegetation of ferns, begonias, and trees loaded with bromelias and orchids.
+    Our bodyguard kept up with us bravely until we had made one-half of the ascent, where
+    they fell behind and we saw them no more. Reaching the summit, we saw before us a
+    distant line of blue, interrupted here and there by some hill or mountain,&mdash;the
+    great Pacific. From here on, the beauty of the road disappeared. We descended and
+    then mounted along dry slopes to Santiago Guevea, then hot and dusty. Our friends of
+    San Miguel really live in Guevea and are at San Miguel only when the coffee needs
+    attention. From Guevea the road was hard and dry and dusty to Santa<a name="page38" id="page38"/> Maria. The mountain mass
+    over which we passed was a peak, the summit of which was covered with masses of
+    chalcedony of brilliant colors, which broke into innumerable splinters, which were
+    lovely to see but hard upon the feet of horses; the surface of this part also gave
+    out a glare or reflection that was almost intolerable. We descended over granite
+    which presented typical spheroidal weathering. We went onward, up and down many
+    little hills, reaching Santa Maria at noonday. The village sweltered; the air
+    scorched and blistered; there was no sign of life, save a few naked children playing
+    in the shade or rolling upon the hot sand. It was so hot and dusty that we hated to
+    resume our journey and tarried so long that we had to ride after nightfall before we
+    reached the <i>rancho</i> of Los Cocos, where we lay in the corridor and all night
+    long heard the grinding of sugar-cane at the mill close by.</p>
+    <p>We had just such another hard, hot, and dusty ride the next day, on through Auyuga
+    and Tlacotepec, where we stopped for noon, until Tehuantepec, where we arrived at
+    evening.</p>
+    <hr style="width: 65%;" />
+    <h2><a name="CHAPTER_IV" id="CHAPTER_IV"></a>CHAPTER IV</h2>
+    <a name="page39" id="page39"/>
+    <h2>THROUGH CHIAPAS</h2>
+    <h3>(1896)</h3>
+    <p>Tehuantepec is meanly built; it is hot and dusty, and the almost constant winds
+    drive the dust in clouds through the streets. But its picturesque market is a
+    redeeming feature. Every morning it is crowded and presents a brilliant and lively
+    spectacle. All the trade is in the hands of women, and the Tehuantepec women have the
+    reputation of being the handsomest in the world. They are large, finely-built, and in
+    their movements exhibit an indescribable freedom and grace. Their natural attractions
+    are set off by a characteristic and becoming costume. The <i>huipilili</i> is a
+    little sleeveless waist, loose at the neck and arms, and so short that it rarely
+    reaches to the waist-line, to which, of course, it is supposed to extend; it is of
+    bright cotton&mdash;red, brown, purple, with stripes or spots of white&mdash;and is
+    stitched at the neck with yellow silk. The <i>enagua</i>, or skirt, is a strip of
+    heavy cotton cloth, less than a yard wide, which is simply wrapped around the figure
+    and hangs from the waist, being held in place by a brightly colored belt or girdle.
+    The <i>enagua</i> is usually a rich red, but it is sometimes a fine violet purple. It
+    reaches but little below the knees. It generally fails to meet the <i>huipilili</i>
+    above, so that a broader or narrower band of fine, dark brown separates the two
+    garments. Nothing is worn on the feet, which are exposed, as are also the finely
+    shaped and beautifully developed arms. But the most striking article in the
+    Tehuantepec woman's costume is her <i>huip&iacute;l</i>, <a
+    name="page40" id="page40"/>which travellers usually describe as a
+    head-dress, although it is nothing of the kind. It is in reality a waist-garment with
+    sleeves. It is made of lace or cotton, or linen, and is bordered at the neck, the
+    sleeves, and the lower margin with broad ruffs of pleated lace. Only at church or on
+    some important or ceremonial occasion is the <i>huip&iacute;l</i> worn as it was
+    meant to be. Usually at church the wearer draws the garment over her upper body, but
+    does not put her arms into the sleeves, nor her head through the neck-opening, simply
+    fitting her face into this in such a way that it appears to be framed in a broad,
+    oval, well-starched border of pleated lace. Usually, however, the garment is not even
+    worn in this manner, but is turned upside down and carelessly hung upon the head so
+    that the broad lower fringe of lace falls back upon the hair, while the upper part of
+    the garment, with the sleeves, the collar, and cuff-ruffs, hangs down upon the back.
+    The whole effect is that of a fine crest rising from the head, coursing down the
+    back, and moving with the breeze as the woman walks. These Zapotec women are fond of
+    decoration, but particularly prize gold coins. In the past, when Tehuantepec was more
+    important than now, it was no uncommon thing to see a woman in this market with
+    several hundred dollars in gold coins hanging to her neck chain. In these later days
+    of little trade and harder times, these once prized decorations have been spent, and
+    it is rare to see any woman wearing more than twenty to fifty dollars as display.</p>
+    <p>Resuming our journey, we struck out upon the highway which parallels the coast.
+    Almost immediately, the road changed from a fair country cart-road to a road
+    remarkable at once for its straightness, breadth and levelness. It was, however,
+    dreadfully hot and dusty, and was bordered on both sides with a tiresome and
+    monotonous growth of low, thorn-bearing trees, with occasional clumps <a name="page41" id="page41"/>of palms. We ate dinner
+    at Juchitan, in a little eating-house conducted by a <i>Japanese</i>! A little beyond
+    that important indian centre, we saw a puma pace forth from the thicket; with
+    indescribably graceful and slow tread it crossed the dusty road and disappeared in
+    the thicket. In the morning we had startled flocks of parrots, which rose with harsh
+    cries, hovered while we passed, and then resettled on the same trees where they had
+    been before. In the evening we saw pairs of macaws flying high, and as they flew over
+    our heads they looked like black crosses sharp against the evening sky. At evening we
+    reached Guvi&ntilde;o, a dreadful town, in the population of which there seems to be
+    a negro strain. We stopped with the <i>presidente</i>, in whose veins flowed Spanish,
+    indian, and negro blood. In his one-roomed house besides ourselves there slept the
+    owner, his wife, two daughters, one with a six-weeks baby, a son, and two young
+    men&mdash;friends of the family.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image012a.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>READY FOR CHURCH; TEHUANTEPEC</b></p>
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image012b.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>THE WIDE ROAD; TEHUANTEPEC TO JUCHITAN</b></p>
+<br />
+
+
+    <p>Turning north the next day, onto the Niltepec road, we wandered from our trail,
+    losing five leagues of space and more than three hours of time. The country through
+    which we passed was terribly dry; there were no running streams. We crossed the bed
+    of one dried river after another&mdash;streaks of sand and pebbles. The people in the
+    villages near these dried river-beds dug holes a foot or two deep into this sand and
+    gravel and thus got water. At the place where we camped for the night, Suspiro Ranch,
+    a new house was being palm-thatched. All the men and boys of the neighborhood were
+    helping; the labor was carefully divided; some were bringing in great bundles of the
+    palm leaves; others pitched these up to the thatchers, who were skilfully fitting
+    them under and over the poles of the roof framework and then beating them firmly
+    home. Many of the helpers had come considerable distances and <a name="page42" id="page42"/>spent the night, so that
+    we shared our room with quite a dozen men and boys, while the women and children
+    slept in another house.</p>
+    <p>Passing through Zanatepec, we stopped for Sunday at Tanatepec. Here we found
+    ourselves again upon the low coast road. It was, however, our last point of low
+    altitude, as from there we struck inland over a higher, cooler, and more interesting
+    mountain road. At Zanatepec we first saw the <i>marimba</i> played. This musical
+    instrument, unquestionably African in name and origin, is hardly found north of
+    Chiapas, but is extremely common through Central America. It consists of a wooden
+    frame supporting keys made of wood and metal, each of which gives forth its own note
+    when struck with small hammers. Below the keys of lowest tone are hung tubes, pipes,
+    or gourds, as sounding boxes to increase the sound produced by striking the key.
+    Usually four players perform at one time, each using two or more little hammers. The
+    music is rapid and brilliant, somewhat resembling that of the piano. The instrument
+    usually has some fanciful name, which is painted upon it. The one at Tanatepec was
+    <i>La Azteca</i> (The Aztec Lady), while our next one was <i>La reina de las
+    flores</i> (The queen of the flowers). At Zanatepec, <i>La Azteca</i> was an
+    advertising part of a traveling circus. The troupe consisted of three men and three
+    women, the latter of whom seemed to be mulattos. The men were ridiculously garbed and
+    painted to represent wild indians. The real, live indians, who followed these clowns
+    in delighted crowds, enjoyed thrills of terror at their whoops, fierce glances, and
+    wild antics, and assured us that these actors were, if not the real thing, at least
+    wonderfully accurate impersonations of the natives of the <i>Estados unidos</i>
+    (United States)&mdash;the land of the "Apaches."</p>
+    <p>From Tanatepec we were in Chiapas, the southernmost <a
+    name="page43" id="page43"/>state of the republic. We struck out over a
+    fine mountain road, <i>passable for carts</i> all the way to Tuxtla Gutierrez, the
+    capital of the state. Our first ascent was over a magnificent mountain mass of
+    syenite, which at some places seemed to be as fine as our own Quincy stone. The road,
+    with many short zigzags, made a remarkably abrupt ascent, and, having reached the
+    crest, wound like a vast serpent along the summit. As we descended into the following
+    valley, we encountered a beautiful deer, which stood in the middle of the road,
+    eyeing us with curiosity, until we were almost upon it, when it dashed into the
+    thicket and then stopped to again eye us. Upon attaining the second summit we were
+    amid pines. All day we had had a wind in our faces, cold and so strong as to almost
+    blow us from the narrow ridge, yet the sky was cloudless. Looking back from our
+    summit, a magnificent view to the ocean was spread before us. Below us were the
+    mountains over which we had come, then a valley broken with mountains of a lesser
+    size; beyond, was the dry, coastal plain, and yet beyond it, the sea. The dark green
+    pines, the blue sky, the brown hills, the gray plain, the stretch of blue-green
+    waters, made a wonderful color combination.</p>
+    <p>The next two days were most uninteresting. We were often reminded of the recent
+    threat of war between Mexico and Guatemala, the disputed border-line between which we
+    were now nearing. We met marching bands of soldiers who were returning to Juchitan.
+    Officers were on horses, common soldiers on foot, pack-mules were laden with luggage,
+    the women (accompanying their husbands) were weighed down with coffee-pots, bundles
+    of clothes, and babies, all strapped on their backs together. They were a motley
+    crew. At Jiquipilas a company was encamped in the plaza. Our mule, Chontal, took
+    particular delight in running into such bands of marching soldiers as we en<a name="page44" id="page44"/>countered, causing no
+    end of trouble. On one occasion, as a group approached us, he ran forward at a lively
+    pace into their midst and tangled himself up with a party of
+    prisoners,&mdash;apparently soldiers in disgrace,&mdash;who, tied together with
+    ropes, were under guard. As we rode up to capture him, I felt a hand at that coat
+    pocket which contained our money-bag and, turning suddenly, found one of the guard
+    trying to draw the bag of money from my pocket. I struck at him with my whip and he
+    slunk away.</p>
+    <p>The last day of travel before reaching Tuxtla Gutierrez, we passed one of the few
+    pretty places on this dreary road, Agua Bendita. At this point the road makes a great
+    curve, almost like a horseshoe; at the middle of this curve there rises to the right
+    of the road a wall of limestone rock the plainly defined strata of which are thrown
+    into a gentle anticlinal fold. The upper layers of this arch were covered with
+    shrubs, clinging to its face, while the lower layers were tapestried with a curtain
+    of delicate ferns, which hung down over the open arch below, under which the road
+    passed. Water trickled through this limestone mass and dripped and collected in
+    little basins, which had been excavated in the ledge close by the roadside. Some
+    grateful passer had set up little crosses by the water pools, and they were gay that
+    day with purple orchids plucked from a near-by tree. In this tree, amid the brilliant
+    clumps of yet unplucked blossoms of the orchids, were a number of toucans with their
+    enormous, brightly colored bills&mdash;the <i>picos de canoa</i> (canoe beaks) of the
+    people.</p>
+    <p>Tuxtla Gutierrez is a town of some thousands population, with a central plaza
+    where the local band plays almost every evening, and a market place of exceptional
+    interest. Here, as nowhere else, we saw crowds of the purest indians in native dress.
+    Chiapas is the home of at least thirteen tribes, each with its own language. Among
+    the most <a name="page45" id="page45"/>
+    interesting indians we saw in the market were the Tzotzils, from Chamula, who wore
+    heavy, black woolen garments. The indians of the town and its immediate vicinity are
+    Zoques.</p>
+    <p>Few Mexican governors possess the breadth of view and the intelligent enterprise
+    of Governor Leon, whom we encountered here. A man of middle age, of fair stature
+    though slight in build, with dark complexion, iron-gray hair, beard and whiskers
+    carefully trimmed after the French fashion, his appearance creates a favorable
+    impression. He did everything in his power for our comfort and assistance, and
+    supplied us with letters to the <i>jefes politicos</i> of the districts through which
+    we were to pass. We congratulated him upon the cart-road over which we had come from
+    Zanatepec, an important public work for this part of the world; he told us he began
+    it three years ago with a force of but nine men; that it would be extended to San
+    Cristobal and San Bartolome; that he was no engineer, but that he could tell quite
+    well when a road was passable for a cart. We found him greatly interested in a
+    congress which he had called of persons interested in labor questions. Among the
+    questions which he hoped to see considered was the abolition of the system of
+    <i>peonage,</i> which still exists in full development in the state.</p>
+    <p>Less than three leagues from Tuxtla Gutierrez is Chiapa, famous for the brightly
+    painted gourds and calabash vessels there manufactured and sent out to all parts of
+    the republic. Toys, rattles, cups, and great bowl-basins are among the forms
+    produced. We visited a house where five women were making pretty rattles from little
+    crook-necked gourds. The workers sat upon the floor, with their materials and tools
+    before them. The first one rubbed the body of the dry gourds over with an oil paint.
+    These paints are bought in bulk and mixed upon a flat slab, with a fine-grained,
+    smooth, hard pebble as a grinder, with <i>aje</i><a
+    name="page46" id="page46"/> and a white earth dug near the road between
+    Chiapa and Tuxtla Gutierrez. The <i>aje</i> is a yellow, putty-like mass which gives
+    a brilliant, lacquer-like lustre; the white earth causes the color to adhere to the
+    surface to which it is applied. The second woman rubbed the neck of the gourd with
+    green paint; the third painted the line of junction of the two colors with white,
+    using a brush; the fourth brought out the lustre of the before dull object by rubbing
+    it upon a pad of cotton cloth upon her knee, giving a final touch by careful rubbing
+    with a tuft of cotton-wool; with a brush, the final worker rapidly painted on the
+    lustrous surface delicate floral or geometric decoration. Though representing so much
+    delicate and ingenious labor, these pretty toys were sold at the price of two for a
+    <i>medio</i> (three cents in United States currency).</p>
+    <p>The <i>aje</i> which gives the brilliant lustre to this work deserves more than a
+    passing notice. It is made chiefly at San Bartolome and is secured from an insect, a
+    sort of plant-louse, which lives upon the blackthorn and related trees. The insect is
+    found only in the wet season, is small, though growing rapidly, and is of a fiery-red
+    color, though it coats itself over with a white secretion. It lives in swarms, which
+    form conspicuous masses. These are gathered in vessels, washed to remove the white
+    secretion, boiled, crushed, and strained through a cloth; an oily matter, mixed with
+    blood (?) and water passes out, which is boiled to drive off the water and to
+    concentrate the oily mass. This is then washed in trays, to rid it of the blood, and
+    made up into balls, which are sold at ten or twelve <i>centavos</i> (five or six
+    cents) a pound. It is a putty-like substance, with a handsome yellow color. We have
+    already stated that it is ground up with dry paints to be rubbed on the object which
+    is to be adorned, and that the brilliant lustre is developed by gentle and rapid
+    friction.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image013a.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>ZAPOTEC WOMAN; SAN BLAS</b></p>
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image013b.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>CASE OF WHITE PINTO; TUXITA GUTIERREZ</b></p>
+<br />
+
+    <a name="page47" id="page47"/>
+    <p><i>Pinto</i>, a spotting or discoloring of the skin, is a common disease in many
+    parts of Mexico. Three varieties are recognized&mdash;white, red, and blue or purple.
+    The disease is particularly frequent in the states of Guerrero and Chiapas, and we
+    had heard that it was very common in Chiapa. Perhaps twenty per cent of the
+    population really has the disease; at San Bartolome perhaps seventy-five per cent are
+    affected; in some towns an even larger proportion is reported. The white form appears
+    the commonest. One subject examined at Tuxtla Gutierrez was a woman some sixty years
+    of age. At birth she showed no symptom of the trouble, but spots began to appear when
+    she was seven or eight years old. She was naturally dark, and the white spots were in
+    notable contrast to her normal color; the spots increased in number and in size until
+    her face and arms looked as if they had been white and become brown-spotted, instead
+    of <i>vice versa</i>. After she was forty years of age her spots varied but little.
+    The cause of this disease is still obscure, although several treatises have been
+    written upon it. Authorities do not even agree as to the sequence of the forms of the
+    disease, if there be such sequence. Some assert that the white form is the early
+    stage and that the disease may never progress beyond it; others assert that the white
+    spots are merely the permanent scars, left after the disappearance of the disease
+    itself. Maps of distribution seem to show a distinct relation of the disease to
+    altitude and character of water-supply. The common herd attribute it to an insect
+    sting, to drinking of certain water, or to bathing in certain pools. Usually, there
+    is no pain or danger connected with the trouble, except in the red form, but if the
+    person affected changes residence, itching and some discomfort may temporarily ensue.
+    The <i>presidente</i> at Chiapa took us to the jail, where the prisoners were filed
+    before us and made to hold out hands and feet for our <a
+    name="page48" id="page48"/>inspection. Such cases of <i>pinto</i> as
+    were found were somewhat carefully examined. All we encountered there were of the
+    white variety. Later, at private houses, we saw some dreadful cases of the purple
+    form. Very often, those whose faces were purple-blotched had white-spotted hands and
+    feet.</p>
+    <p>We had not planned to stop at Acala, but after a hard ride over a dreary road and
+    a ferrying across a wide and deep river in a great dugout canoe thirty feet or more
+    in length&mdash;our animals swimming alongside&mdash;we found our beasts too tired
+    for further progress. And it was a sad town. How strange, that beautifully clear and
+    sparkling mountain water often produces actual misery among an ignorant population!
+    Scarcely had we dismounted at our lodging place, when a man of forty, an idiot and
+    goitrous, came to the door and with sadly imperfectly co-ordinated movements,
+    gestured a message which he could not speak. Almost as soon as he had gone a
+    deaf-mute boy passed. As we sat at our doorway, we saw a half-witted child at play
+    before the next house. Goitre, deaf-mutism, and imbecility, all are fearfully common,
+    and all are relatedly due to the drinking water.</p>
+    <p>To us, sitting at the door near dusk, a song was borne upon the evening breeze.
+    Nearer and nearer it came, until we saw a group of twelve or fifteen persons, women
+    in front, men and children behind, who sang as they walked. Some aided themselves
+    with long staves; all carried burdens of clothing, food, utensils; all were wearied
+    and footsore with the long journey, but full of joy and enthusiasm, as they were
+    nearing their destination&mdash;a famous shrine. Passing us, they journeyed onward to
+    an open space at the end of town, where, with many others who had reached there
+    sooner, they camped for the night. The next day we constantly passed such parties of
+    pilgrims; coming or going <a name="page49"
+    id="page49"/>to this shrine which lay a little off the road between
+    Acala and San Bartolome. In one group, we counted ninety pilgrims.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image014a.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>RIVER BETWEEN CHIAPA AND ACALA</b></p>
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image014b.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>THE INDIAN GOVERNMENT AT SAN BARTOLOME</b></p>
+<br />
+
+    <p>We had been told that San Bartolome was full of goitre, and we really found no
+    lack of cases. It is said that forty years ago it was far more common than now, and
+    that the decrease has followed the selection of a new water source and the careful
+    piping of the water to the town. In the population of two thousand, it was estimated
+    that there might be two hundred cases, fifty of which were notable. None, however,
+    was so extraordinary as that of which several told us, the late <i>secretario</i> of
+    the town, who had a goitre of such size that, when he sat at the table to write, he
+    had to lift the swelling with both hands and place it on the table before he began
+    work. The former prevalence of the disease is abundantly suggested by the frequency
+    of deaf-mutes, a score or more of whom live here&mdash;all children of goitrous
+    parents. Bad as was San Bartolome, it seemed to us surpassed by San Antonio, where we
+    found the disease in an aggravated form, while at Nenton, our first point in
+    Guatemala, every one appeared affected, although we saw no dreadful cases.</p>
+    <p>San Bartolome is an almost purely indian town, where for the first time our
+    attention was called to the two sets of town officials&mdash;indian and
+    <i>ladino</i>. The indian town government consisted of four Indians of pure blood,
+    who wore the native costume. This, here, is characteristic, both for men and women.
+    The men wore wide-legged trousers of native woven cotton, and an upper jacket-shirt,
+    square at the bottom, made of the same stuff, with designs&mdash;rosettes, flowers,
+    geometrical figures, birds, animals, or men&mdash;wrought in them in red, green, or
+    yellow wools; about the waist was a handsome brilliant native belt, while a bright
+    kerchief was twisted about the head. The men <a name="page50"
+    id="page50"/>were well-built, but the <i>alcalde</i> was a white
+    <i>pinto</i>. Women wore <i>huipilis</i>, waist-garments, sometimes thick and heavy,
+    at others thin and open, in texture, but in both cases decorated with lines of
+    brightly colored designs. Their <i>enaguas</i>, skirts, were of heavy indigo-blue
+    stuff or of plain white cotton, of two narrow pieces sewed together and quite plain
+    except for a line of bright stitching along the line of juncture. As among other
+    indian tribes, this cloth was simply wrapped around the figure and held in place by a
+    belt. The town is famous for its weaving and dyeing; the loom is the simple,
+    primitive device used all through Mexico long before the Conquest. We were surprised
+    to find that the designs in colored wools are not embroidered upon the finished
+    fabric, but are worked in with bits of worsted during the weaving.</p>
+    <p>From San Bartolome to Comitan, the road passes over a curious lime deposit,
+    apparently formed by ancient hot waters; it is a porous tufa which gave back a hollow
+    sound under the hoofs of our horses. It contains moss, leaves, and branches, crusted
+    with lime, and often forms basin terraces, which, while beautiful to see, were
+    peculiarly harsh and rough for our animals. But the hard, and far more ancient,
+    limestone, onto which we then passed, was quite as bad. At the very summit of one
+    hill of this we found a cave close by the road; entering it, we penetrated to a
+    distance of perhaps seventy-five feet, finding the roof hung with stalactites and the
+    walls sheeted with stalagmite. Just after leaving this cave, we met a tramp on foot,
+    ragged, weary, and dusty, and with a little bundle slung upon a stick over his
+    shoulder. He accosted me in Spanish, asking whence we had come; on my reply, probably
+    catching my foreign accent, he winked and said in plain English,&mdash;"Yes? And
+    where are you going, pard?"</p>
+    <p>After a hard day's ride, over a shut-in road, destitute of <a name="page51" id="page51"/>fine views, we reached
+    the crest overlooking Comitan. The descent was almost precipitous. The town, better
+    built and more compact than most, was situated near the foot of the hill; near it, on
+    a terrace, was the cemetery. On the level road, stretching to a long distance from
+    the town, we saw lines of hundreds of pack-mules, dwarfed by distance. South from the
+    town stretched a grassy plain, bordered here and there with pine trees. Back of this
+    plain rose round-topped hills, and beyond them were again the blue mountains; far in
+    the distance, behind these, towered the mighty crests of the Guatemalan Sierra
+    Madre.</p>
+    <p>The town was crowded, as the annual <i>feria</i> (fair) was in progress, and it
+    was with difficulty that we found a room to sleep in, going for our meals to one of
+    the many temporary eating-places in the plaza. Comitan is the last town of
+    consequence in Mexico, and has wide fame on account of its spirits, known at
+    <i>comiteco</i>. This drink, of enormous strength, distilled from coarse, brown sugar
+    (<i>panela,</i>) is a favorite in Guatemala, and its smuggling across the border,
+    though risky, is a lucrative business. There are scores of little distilleries in the
+    town, many of them belonging to and conducted by women.</p>
+    <p>Mexican paper money is useless between Tuxtla Gutierrez and Comitan. At the latter
+    city it may be exchanged for silver, but with difficulty. From here on we found no
+    copper in circulation, and before reaching Comitan we had begun to receive Guatemalan
+    silver in our change. Fully thirty leagues from the border we ceased to receive
+    Mexican silver from anyone. This notable displacement of Mexican currency seems
+    curious, because Guatemalan money is at a heavy discount in comparison with it. At
+    San Bartolome we sent a soldier-police to buy <i>zacate</i>, giving him Mexican
+    money. He brought back two Guatemalan pieces in change, and on our objecting to
+    receive it, as<a name="page52" id="page52"/>
+    sured me, not only that the money was good, but also that here the people were
+    Guatemalans. "Here," said he, "not Mexico: here we are all Carrera's people." This,
+    of course, was sheer treason. Carrera, the pure-blood indian who in the stirring days
+    of 1839 seized the power in Guatemala, a strange and wild being who had a real love
+    for his country, has left a profound impression. At times an exile, he had lived at
+    Comitan, where his name was familiar to all the indians around. His coins are much
+    prized by the indians for necklaces and earrings, and even at Tehuantepec we had seen
+    women wearing his little gold pieces in their ears.</p>
+    <p>It should have been an easy matter to go from Comitan to Nenton (in Guatemala) in
+    a single day. As it was, we made it with great difficulty in two, our mule Chontal
+    apparently being completely worn out. We crossed the <i>llano</i>, passed through
+    patches of pines, and then came out upon a terrible country of limestone hills. In
+    our last day's journey we had to coax, threaten, beat, drag, and push that mule until
+    our voices were gone and our arms were tired. Immediately on passing the line into
+    Guatemala, we found the telegraph wires cut and poles down, a result of the late
+    unpleasantness with Mexico. The mountain mass before us, which had been in view for
+    two days past, loomed up frightfully before us. Would our little mule be able to pass
+    it? We remembered what an American tramp, whom we had met at Tuxtla Gutierrez and who
+    had walked on foot from Guatemala City, had said: "Between Nenton and Huehuetenango
+    you will pass over a mountain that will make your heart sick; may God help you." Just
+    at dusk we looked down upon Nenton in a little valley, with a fine stream crossed by
+    a pretty bridge, where mountains rose steeply on every side. Having been registered
+    by the custom officials, we slept that <a name="page53"
+    id="page53"/>night, our first in the new republic, in the municipal
+    house.</p>
+    <p>Next morning we started bravely, the whole town having assembled to see us off. We
+    safely reached the foot of the mountain, where the mule stopped and braced himself.
+    We spoke kindly, coaxed, dragged, but all to no effect. Finally he started, but three
+    times within the next few minutes, he and we went through the same procedure.
+    Patience had ceased to be a virtue; we held a serious consultation. Ernst asserted
+    that by placing the rope over the nostrils of the animal and then leading, he must
+    move. We tried the experiment. The beast gave a snort, a groan, lurched, fell over,
+    kicked convulsively, closed his eyes, and lay to all appearance dead. The town below,
+    which had been watching progress, came running up. We removed the halter; the animal
+    lay quiet. The pity of the by-standers was maddening; their remarks exasperating.
+    "Poor little mule, he dies;" they pointed to his rubbed sides,&mdash;"Ah, poor
+    creature! What a heavy load! How thin he is." It is certain that the best mule in the
+    town was in far worse condition, and as for food, Chontal had eaten more the night
+    before than our two horses put together. Having exhausted their vocabulary of
+    sympathy, our friends left us, as the "poor little animal" showed signs of coming to.
+    We concluded to engage a man on foot to carry the burden across the mountains and to
+    lead Chontal. After some delay a man was found, who readily agreed to carry the
+    burden and pack-saddle, but when he found he was to lead the mule besides, he defied
+    the town authorities and refused to go. Unfortunately, he was a carpenter and, by
+    law, could not be made to go against his will. Hours passed, while another carrier
+    was sought. Declaring that I would not return to town, I waited on the road with the
+    mule, while Ernst rode back and forth. As soon as he had <a
+    name="page54" id="page54"/>left, the beast began to mend; he coughed,
+    raised his head, and, opening one eye, gravely winked. Taking his halter and
+    encouraging him to rise, I led him a few yards up the hill, when he again braced
+    himself and I desisted. There he ate <i>zacate</i>. Presently we took another turn,
+    mounted a little higher up the hill, where he stopped again. A little later we made
+    another journey, and again halted. Just then I heard an indian boy of fourteen years
+    calling from the cliff above me in great excitement, "<i>Se&ntilde;or, un animal</i>"
+    (An animal, sir). Clambering over rocks, I came up to the boy, with his
+    <i>machete</i> in his hand, standing at the foot of a tree upon the leafless branches
+    of which was a fine iguana (lizard) two feet or more in length. Visions of iguana
+    steak, which I had long desired to try, rose in fancy. The boy was disgusted when he
+    found I had no pistol with which to shoot his animal, but grunted, "If we but had a
+    cord." I directed him where to find a cord among our luggage and on his return he
+    made a slip-noose, cut a long and slender pole to which he tied his snare, then
+    handing me his <i>machete</i> he raised his pole and tried to slip the noose over the
+    lizard's head. The iguana gave a leap, and as it shot by me I struck at it with the
+    <i>machete</i>, which hit it and threw it on the rocks below. However, before we
+    could reach it, it had made good its escape.</p>
+    <p>Returning to the mule I found it eating grass contentedly by the roadside. It was
+    three o'clock in the afternoon when our human beast of burden finally arrived, took
+    up his burden and was ready to start. Then, suddenly, I took a new resolve. Before us
+    rose the appalling mass of the Sierra Madre; to get that mule across it would wear us
+    out in mind and body; I regretted that he had not died, and determined to have no
+    further trouble with him. Quickly, we sent back word to Nenton that a mule and saddle
+    were for sale; the crowd gathered. We demanded fifteen dol<a
+    name="page55" id="page55"/>lars for the mule, ten for the saddle; and
+    were offered ten and five respectively. But we declared we would kill the mule and
+    burn the saddle before we would take less; we triumphed. Our account stood:</p>
+    <center>
+      <table summary="Our account stood:">
+        <tr>
+          <td>
+          </td>
+        </tr>
+        <tr>
+          <td align='left'>Cost of mule</td>
+          <td align='right'>$45.00</td>
+        </tr>
+        <tr>
+          <td align='left'>Cost of saddle</td>
+          <td align='right'>6.00</td>
+        </tr>
+        <tr>
+          <td align='left'>&nbsp;</td>
+          <td align='right'>$51.00</td>
+        </tr>
+        <tr>
+          <td align='left'>&nbsp;</td>
+          <td align='right'>&nbsp;</td>
+        </tr>
+        <tr>
+          <td align='left'>Selling price of mule</td>
+          <td align='right'>$15.00</td>
+        </tr>
+        <tr>
+          <td align='left'>Selling price of saddle</td>
+          <td align='right'>10.00</td>
+        </tr>
+        <tr>
+          <td align='left'>&nbsp;</td>
+          <td align='right'>$25.00</td>
+        </tr>
+        <tr>
+          <td align='left'>&nbsp;</td>
+          <td align='right'>&nbsp;</td>
+        </tr>
+        <tr>
+          <td align='left'>Loss&mdash;paid for experience in mules</td>
+          <td align='right'><b>$26.00</b></td>
+        </tr>
+      </table>
+    </center>
+    <hr style="width: 65%;" />
+    <h2><a name="CHAPTER_V" id="CHAPTER_V"></a>CHAPTER V</h2>
+    <a name="page56" id="page56"/>
+    <h2>AT HUIXQUILUCAN</h2>
+    <h3>(1897)</h3>
+    <p>Our serious work was to begin with one of the most conservative and reserved of
+    Mexican indian populations. If we could do what we planned to do with the Otomis, we
+    were likely to have but little greater trouble with any tribe. In ancient times the
+    name of Otomi was synonymous with stupidity. When an Aztec was particularly stupid or
+    clumsy, his fellows in derision called him an Otomi. They still are ignorant,
+    suspicious, and unprogressive.</p>
+    <p>Huixquilucan, which we had chosen as our field for labor, is situated on a high
+    ridge within sight of the National Railroad, at a distance of perhaps a mile and a
+    half from the station of Dos Rios. A crowd of indian women and children are always at
+    the station when trains pass, to sell <i>tortillas, chalupas</i>, and <i>pulque</i>
+    to passengers; few travellers from the United States, passing over this road, have
+    failed to notice the dark and ugly faces of these sellers, and have received their
+    first impression of the indians of Mexico from seeing them. Our party, three in
+    number, reached Dos Rios in the morning and began work at the station with the women
+    who were selling there. Dr. Powell, as our interpreter, undertook the personal
+    dealings, and our material, as was to be expected, was chiefly women. When we came to
+    record the names of our subjects, we found that every woman's first name was Maria,
+    the differentiation between them being first found in the middle name. They were<a name="page57" id="page57"/> little creatures,
+    scarcely larger than well grown girls of eleven or twelve among ourselves. Some old
+    women, with grey hair and wrinkled faces who piously kissed our hands when they met
+    us, were among the smallest. Now and then some young woman or girl was attractive,
+    but usually their faces were suspicious, sad, and old before their time. The skin was
+    a rich brown; the eyebrows heavily haired, often meeting above the nose; the hair
+    grew low upon the forehead, and in young women the forehead itself was covered with a
+    fine downy black growth. The nose was flat, broad, and depressed at the roots, while
+    its tip was flat and wide. The eyes were dark brown and the hair was black and
+    coarse. If we were to judge the population by the women only, we might call the
+    Otomis true pygmies. The average stature of 28 subjects was 1,435
+    millimeters&mdash;while Sir William Flower's limit for pygmy peoples is 1,500
+    millimeters.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image015a.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>OTOMI INDIAN GIRLS; HUIXQUILUCAN</b></p>
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image015b.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>THE MOON-STONE, AT DOS RIOS STATION</b></p>
+<br />
+
+
+
+    <p>Many of the women whom we measured and photographed carried babies; the
+    disposition of the children while the mothers were being examined was something of a
+    problem. When given to another woman they usually cried lustily, and so conducted
+    themselves as to distract the attention of their mothers and interfere seriously with
+    our work. In the crowd of lookers-on there chanced to be a little girl, surely not
+    more than ten years old, who seemed to be a born caretaker. Upon her back, supported
+    by her <i>ayate</i>, she carried her own baby brother. We quickly found that really
+    refractory babies were best committed to her charge. No matter how loudly they might
+    have been crying beforehand, when transferred to the arms of this little creature
+    they became instantly quiet. The poor little thing was kept busily employed the
+    greater part of the afternoon with the two babies, one upon her back, the other in
+    her arms.<a name="page58" id="page58"/></p>
+    <p>Almost all the women wear the ancient costume, which consists of the
+    <i>huip&iacute;l, enagua, faja</i>, and <i>ayate</i>. The <i>huip&iacute;l</i> is a
+    cotton blanket, with a slit through which the head passes. On each side of the slit
+    are bands of patterns embroidered in bright colors. Much of the remaining surface of
+    the garment may be similarly decorated; sometimes it becomes one mass of designs. The
+    patterns are usually geometrical figures, but may be representations of animals,
+    birds, or human beings. They may be regularly arranged, or jumbled together
+    haphazard. The <i>enagua</i>, skirt, consists of two strips of cloth of different
+    kinds and colors, sewn together side by side and then wrapped horizontally about the
+    body. The strips of cloth are native spun, native dyed, and native woven. The
+    favorite colors are dark blue, brownish purple, or indian red, horizontally banded
+    with narrow black stripes. The two strips are usually joined by a line of colored
+    stitching. The <i>enagua</i> is simply wrapped about the body, sometimes thrown into
+    pleatings in front, and held in place by a broad cotton belt of bright color, into
+    which are woven birds, animals, human figures, and geometrical forms. These belts are
+    called by the Spanish name, <i>faja</i>. Both men and women carry <i>ayates</i>.
+    These are square or rectangular blankets made of <i>ixtli</i>, the strong fibre of
+    the magu&eacute;y. Like the <i>enaguas</i>, they usually consist of two pieces, side
+    by side, stitched together with some bright color. The fibre, which is gotten from
+    the leaves partly by maceration, partly by beating, is spun in a primitive fashion.
+    Almost every woman one meets upon the road, no matter what burden of babies or goods
+    she carries, has a hank of the fibre thrown over her shoulder, and keeps her little
+    spindle whirling, spinning the strong thread as she walks. Her spindle consists of a
+    slender stick thrust through a whorl of baked pottery. Such whorls are no longer
+    made, but the ancient ones, called by the Aztec <a
+    name="page59" id="page59"/>name <i>malacates</i>, are picked up in the
+    fields and reapplied to their old use. Usually the <i>ixtli</i> thread is left of its
+    original grey or white color, but sometimes the fibre is dyed, a fine shade of orange
+    being favored. The <i>ixtli</i> thread is woven into <i>ayates</i>, which are used
+    for carrying burdens. Vegetables, charcoal, babies&mdash;anything&mdash;are put into
+    them. Two ends are tied together to hold the burden in place, and the other two are
+    passed across the breast and tied in front. These blankets are astonishingly strong
+    and unyielding.</p>
+    <p>At evening, after a fair day's work, we made our way on foot across the valley and
+    up the long slope to the summit of the ridge on which lay Huixquilucan, the official
+    centre of a municipality of 11,000 persons. Of these, 3,000 live in the village,
+    while the remainder are clustered together in hamlets like San Bartolito, San
+    Francisco, Agua Bendita, or are scattered in single-house settlements over the
+    mountains. Of the 11,000 persons, more than three-fourths claim to be full Otomis.
+    There are no truly poor in the whole town. Every family has its field, its house, its
+    bit of woodland. All the people still speak the native tongue, and many speak no
+    other. The town is picturesquely situated upon the crest and flank of a long, narrow
+    ridge, which is enclosed by a grand sweeping curve of lofty mountains. The flanks of
+    the enclosed ridge and the whole slope of the surrounding mountains are occupied by
+    the little fields of the indians, long narrow patches separated by lines of
+    <i>magu&eacute;y</i> or century-plants. The houses are built of adobe bricks with
+    thick and solid walls, which are usually plastered on the outside and tinted white or
+    pink. The roofs are pitched, but with a gentle slope. They consist of frameworks of
+    poles upon which long narrow shingles are laid, and pegged in place with wooden pegs
+    which project both above and below for several inches in a formidable, <a name="page60" id="page60"/>bristling way. Sometimes
+    the shingles, instead of being pegged in place, are held by stones, which in some
+    cases weigh several pounds, and are laid in regular horizontal lines.</p>
+    <p>When we were there, great stacks of corn-husks were to be seen in almost every
+    yard; these were placed on floorings, raised by posts some distance above the ground
+    to keep them from animals. A long ladder usually leaned against one side of the stack
+    and a light cross of sticks stuck into the top of the stack kept off evil influences.
+    Sometimes this cross was cut in relief on the smooth, carefully trimmed end of the
+    stack itself. More striking than these stacks, and quite characteristic of the Otomi
+    country, were the queer corn-bins or granaries called by the Aztec name
+    <i>cincalote</i>. They rose in all directions like great square columns. The floor of
+    boards was slightly raised from the ground by stones, and measured some 4 or 5 feet
+    on a side; from its corners rose 4 poles, sometimes to the height of 20 feet; these
+    were connected at the top and held firm by ropes. The sides of the bin were built up
+    of a cobwork of slender staves laid horizontally. The vertical bin thus formed was
+    filled with ears of corn roofed about with a light thatch or shingled roof. Later in
+    the season, as the corn was taken from these bins, the sides would have been removed
+    piecemeal to keep progress with the diminishing hoard. When the time of planting
+    should be near, the whole structure but the floor and upright poles would have
+    disappeared.</p>
+    <p>Next to maize the chief culture among the Otomis is <i>magu&eacute;y</i>. This
+    forms division lines between the corn-fields and the village yards, and is sometimes,
+    though not commonly here, planted in fields. The <i>magu&eacute;y</i> is an agave
+    very close to the century-plant. Manifold are its uses, but to the Otomi its value is
+    chiefly in two directions. It <a name="page61"
+    id="page61"/>furnishes <i>ixtli</i> fibre for <i>ayates</i>, and it
+    yields <i>pulque</i>. For a dozen years the <i>magu&eacute;y</i> plant stores away
+    starchy food in its long, thick, sharp-pointed leaves. It is the intended nourishment
+    for a great shaft of flowers. Finally, the flower-bud forms amid the cluster of
+    leaves. Left to itself the plant now sends all its reserve of food into this bud, and
+    the great flower-stalk shoots upward at the rate of several inches daily; then the
+    great pyramid of flowers develops. But man interferes. The flower-bud is cut out, and
+    a neat, deep cup is fashioned amid the bases of the cluster of leaves. The sap which
+    should produce that wonderful growth is poured into this cup. The <i>pulque</i>
+    gatherer, with his long gourd collecting-tube, and skin carrying-bottle, goes from
+    plant to plant and gathers the <i>agua miel</i>&mdash;honey-water. Fermented, it
+    becomes the whitish, dirty, ropy, sour-tasting, bad-smelling stuff so dear to the
+    indians. And the Otomi are fond of <i>pulque</i>. We were compelled to do our work in
+    the mornings; in the afternoons everyone was drunk and limp and useless in the
+    operator's hands.</p>
+    <p>We slept and ate at the house of the <i>presidente</i>, an old <i>mestizo</i> of
+    rather forbidding manners but kindly spirit. Our cases came rather slowly and a deal
+    of coaxing, argument, and bribes were necessary to secure them. Here we gave a
+    trifle, a few <i>centavos</i>, to each subject. The policy was bad, and we abandoned
+    it with reference to all subsequent populations. Naturally the natives were hostile
+    to our work. They thought that we were measuring them for their coffins; that they
+    would be forced into the army; that disease would result; that an uncanny influence
+    was laid upon them; that witchcraft might be worked against them. After having had a
+    lot of trouble with many of our subjects, we were surprised one day to have the
+    oldest man of the village, Antonio Calistro, born in 1813, still so hale <a name="page62" id="page62"/>and hearty that he works
+    his own fields, come in for measurement and photographing. He still wears the old
+    style of dress: a loose jacket with wide sleeves made of dark blue woolen cloth,
+    gathered around the waist by a closely-woven cotton belt; short, wide-legged trousers
+    of buckskin. He is the only man left in the village who wears his hair after the old
+    fashion; that on top of his head in front was combed together and braided into a
+    little tail, while that on the sides and back of the head was made into a longer
+    braid. When we asked him how it was that he was not afraid to undergo our measurement
+    and photographing, we learned that someone had told him that the purport of the work
+    was to send information to the Pope in Rome as to how his Otomi children looked, and
+    from respect for the Holy Father the old man of eighty years had walked in from his
+    distant farm to be measured and photographed.</p>
+    <p>A curious fact in respect to the Otomis resulted from our study. The men,
+    apparently of pure blood, presented two quite different types. There are many who are
+    as little as the women; these present almost the type already given as that of the
+    women, but are a little lighter in color. The second type is tall, sometimes over
+    1,700 millimeters. It is lighter in color, presenting at times a light
+    brownish-yellow shade. Some indians of this large type have white skins, blotched
+    with disagreeable red or purple. The eyes of these large men are usually
+    widely-spaced, and the face appears rounder than in their smaller brethren. All the
+    Otomis of both types, men and women, have astonishingly big heads, and many dwarfish
+    individuals would require a 7-1/4 hat.</p>
+    <p>One night during our stay we had a grand illumination. It was St. Martin's Eve.
+    During the afternoon the men and boys planted dead trees in the plaza and streets,
+    and filled the branches with bunches of dry brush. At<a
+    name="page63" id="page63"/> dusk we walked up to the crest before the
+    church. All through the valley the men and boys had been busy, and as darkness
+    settled down, blaze after blaze sprung forth until every hillside was dotted with
+    flaming heaps. On every church and farm-house of large size, straight lines of little
+    bonfires were built along the edges of the roof. There must have been many hundreds
+    of fires in sight at once. Meanwhile, all the churches of the little hamlets around
+    clanged their bells discordantly. Then the church close by us burst into
+    illumination, and its bells joined in the clangor as we started down the hill. The
+    villagers were putting torches to the piles, and children were dancing in the glare,
+    shooting off their little rockets and adding their full share to the general
+    confusion.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image016a.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>THE CHURCH; HUIXQUILUCAN</b></p>
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image016b.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>OTOMI INDIAN; HUIXQUILUCAN</b></p>
+<br />
+
+
+
+    <p>In the olden time Huixquilucan had a bad reputation for highway robberies. A great
+    hill overlooking the town is called the hill of crosses, and here a cross by the
+    wayside usually signifies a place of murder. Many a traveller in the not distant past
+    found his way from here as best he could to the capital city minus burden and money,
+    minus hat and shoes, and sometimes minus clothing. They used to say that from Toluca
+    to the city a man was robbed three times; the first time they took his money, the
+    second his watch and valuables, the third, his clothes. We were told that the church
+    here, the chief church of our Otomi friends, is called "the church of the thieves,"
+    and that it was even lately a favorite resort of <i>ladrones</i>, who prayed for
+    blessing upon their thieving expeditions and for release in case they should be taken
+    captive. And not so long ago, among the little silver votive offerings,&mdash;eyes,
+    legs, arms, hands,&mdash;all given in fulfillment of promises for the cure of ailing
+    members,&mdash;one might see little chains and manacles, visible evidence that saint
+    or Virgin had kindly released some fellow, taken in his misdeeds, from <a name="page64" id="page64"/>a well deserved
+    punishment, in answer to his pious prayers.</p>
+    <p>Below the station of Dos Rios a little ravine borders the main valley. There,
+    within sight of the track on one side of the ravine lies the stone which long ago
+    "fell from the moon." It is a great boulder, with flat lower surface, and round upper
+    surface, sufficiently large for a considerable party to camp on. The earth is washed
+    away somewhat from below it, and on its under side are rude figures painted in
+    imitation of suns and circles and symbolic designs. It is said that the indians
+    throughout the country around respect this rock, making prayers and offerings to
+    it.</p>
+    <p>One of Huixquilucan's pretty hamlets is Agua Bendita,&mdash;blessed
+    water,&mdash;near the upper, narrowing end of the valley. A dozen or so houses
+    compose the settlement. Near it, upon a little side gorge, two lovely springs burst
+    forth from the rock. From them a babbling stream of sparkling water flows, in which,
+    in the bright sunshine, women wash clothes, and lay them out on bushes or grassy
+    banks to dry; little naked children play about while the mothers labor; hither dusky
+    maidens come to perform their toilets; here women fill their <i>ollas</i> with water;
+    here <i>pulque</i>-gatherers wash and scrape their skin bottles. In the little tank
+    below, where the water lies so clear that everything is visible upon its bottom, one
+    may see axolotls creeping. They are water-salamanders, but they have a strange
+    history. Like frogs, they pass through a series of changes, and the larval is very
+    different from the adult form. In some Mexican lakes of genial temperature, the
+    little creature goes through its full history from the larva to the adult; but in
+    cold mountain lakes, the adult form is never attained, and the larva (elsewhere
+    immature) lays eggs that hatch its like.</p>
+    <p>Our last evening at Huixquilucan, I went out to pur<a
+    name="page65" id="page65"/>chase native garments. We rode from house
+    to house, and were quite away from the town in a district where houses were few and
+    far between. It was nearly dusk and our search must end. We were at the last house on
+    a slope near the bottom of a valley, on whose opposite slope were but a few houses.
+    The people were primitive in appearance, dress and language. They could not
+    understand all we said, but were anxious to please the "<i>padrecito</i>," whose hand
+    they kissed. Having no clothing to sell us, they tried to help us procure some.
+    Orders were given to a shy and wild girl, with deep-set, shining jet-black eyes,
+    raven hair and dark brown skin, dressed in rags. Stepping to a little out-jutting
+    mass of rock, she gave a wild cry, looking across the valley to the nearest house on
+    the opposite slope, fully half a mile away. We could see the people of the house turn
+    out to hear. Then, in a high, clear voice, strangely penetrating, but without
+    harshness or a break or pause for breath, with rising and falling intonation, she
+    cried her message. There was a moment's pause, and then we saw the answering crier
+    take her place, and in the same clear, penetrating, unbroken, up-and-down voice, came
+    back the reply. It was not favorable, and the old man apologized for the failure, as
+    he kissed the <i>padrecito's</i> hand in parting.</p>
+    <hr style='width: 45%;' />
+    <p>Some weeks later we were again at Huixquilucan, this time to secure some busts.
+    Having reached the house of the <i>presidente</i>, we sent out our drunken friend
+    Augustin, who had been useful to us during our measuring experiences, to find
+    subjects. He finally appeared with a man who agreed to submit to the operation for
+    one <i>peso</i>. Everything went well until the moulds were removed; it is true that
+    in the removal a good deal of hair was pulled out, but no serious damage was done.
+    When the <i>peso</i> agreed upon <a name="page66"
+    id="page66"/>was offered, the subject indignantly refused to receive
+    it, demanding five. I replied that he well understood our agreement: there was his
+    <i>peso</i>; if he cared to take it, good; if not, I would keep it; but that to pay
+    five <i>pesos</i> was out of the question. He thereupon grew angry and boisterously
+    demanded the increased sum. Several of his friends gathered and backed him in his
+    demand. The noise they made attracted a still greater crowd until at last we were
+    surrounded by forty or fifty angry Indians. The man continued to demand his five
+    <i>pesos</i>, the other crying, "Pay him five <i>pesos</i>." I was firm, declaring
+    that the man should receive no more than had been promised. Again the <i>peso</i> was
+    offered, again to be rejected. At that moment some brilliant genius cried, "If you do
+    not pay five <i>pesos</i> we will break your moulds." And the cry was caught up by
+    the angry crowd: "Yes, we will break the moulds unless you pay five <i>pesos</i>." At
+    this threat I told my two companions to stand back out of the way, and then, speaking
+    to him who had suggested the breaking of the moulds, said, pointing to them, "Yes,
+    break the moulds." His ardor cooled. Turning to another, I said to him, "Come, break
+    the moulds." He began to back away. Turning to the cause of the disturbance, who had
+    joined in the cry about destroying the moulds, I said to him, "Come, come, we are
+    waiting for you to break the moulds." No one made a move toward destroying our
+    plaster-work, so I said, "No, you know quite well you will not break the moulds; if
+    you did, you know what would happen; I should take you all as prisoners to Toluca."
+    At that moment, catching sight of the old <i>presidente</i> who was passing on the
+    road, I clapped my hands and beckoned him. When the old man came I laid the matter
+    fairly before him, telling him the agreement that had been made, the time taken for
+    the work, and the fact I had offered the man the <i>peso</i> promised; that he now
+    de<a name="page67" id="page67"/>manded five
+    <i>pesos</i>, refusing to take the proffered money. The old man looked a moment at
+    me, then at the angry indian; then at me, and again at the indian; then, stepping up
+    to him, he patted him on the back as a father might a spoiled child, saying, "Come,
+    come, son; don't be a fool; three good days' wages for an hour's time; take your
+    <i>peso</i> and be gone." We had feared the incident would cast a damper on our work
+    and hinder other subjects. Far from it. We were supplied as rapidly as our men could
+    work at the same price we paid our first subject.</p>
+    <hr style="width: 65%;" />
+    <h2><a name="CHAPTER_VI" id="CHAPTER_VI"></a>CHAPTER VI</h2>
+    <a name="page68" id="page68"/>
+    <h2>LAKE PATZCUARO</h2>
+    <h3>(1897)</h3>
+    <p>Mexico has few large lakes, the largest, Chapala, having an area of only 1,685
+    square kilometers. Patzcuaro is much smaller, but far more picturesque. The form is
+    something like a fat horseshoe; fine hills rise around it on all sides, behind which
+    are mountain heights, with jagged outlines; pretty islands dot its waters, and
+    twenty-two villages or towns of Tarascan indians are situated on its borders. The
+    indians of these villages rarely use the land roads in going from town to town,
+    commonly journeying by canoes, of a somewhat peculiar type. These are "dug outs,"
+    made from single tree trunks, and range in size from those intended for a single
+    hunter to those which will carry ten or twelve persons. At the stern they are cut
+    almost squarely across; at the bow they are trimmed to a slope; they are
+    flat-bottomed and considerably wider at the bottom than above; they are dug out in
+    such fashion that the walls are thin and almost vertical on the inner side.
+    Buttressing pieces are left at the bottom, at two or three places, extending across
+    the canoe and no doubt strengthening the sides; they also serve as squatting places
+    for the passengers. The prow narrows as well as slopes upward, and a buttressing
+    piece left in it serves as a foot-rest for the steersman, who sits in the bow,
+    instead of in the stern. He steers by means of a long-handled paddle thrust through a
+    loop of wood fastened to one side of the canoe. The paddles used for propulsion have
+    handles three or<a name="page69"
+    id="page69"/> four feet long, with round blades. The paddlers sometimes make their stroke on but
+    one side of the canoe, sometimes on both. When they paddle over one side only, the
+    stroke of the oar through the water is oblique, maintaining a steady course.</p>
+
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image017.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>SANTA FE DE LA LAGUNA</b></p>
+<br />
+
+    <p>In such canoes the Tarascans of the lake villages go from place to place; in such
+    a canoe, we started one morning before six o'clock, for Santa Fe de la Laguna. Our
+    force consisted of three persons, an old man named Felipe, his wife, and a young man.
+    All three had paddles, but only two really paddled, the third one steering. The sun
+    rose shortly after we started, and the light effects of early morning on the water
+    and surrounding mountains were fine. Though we had made an early start, many had
+    started earlier, and in the first part of our journey we met scores of canoes, the
+    paddlers of which were on their way to Patzcuaro. It was a beautiful sight to see six
+    or eight paddlers in some great canoe keeping exact time in their movements, singing
+    as they went. Sometimes two canoes were raced, and laughter and excited cries
+    accompanied the contest. Here and there along the shores we saw little huts of
+    fishermen, with nets hung out to dry, or groups of men seining or dropping dip-nets;
+    upon many slopes were little terrace garden spots, where modest crops were
+    cultivated; here and there were mats lately finished or heaps of fresh-cut rushes for
+    their fabrication. Five hours of good paddling brought us to Santa Fe de la Laguna,
+    just opposite the far more famous Tzintzuntzan, and but a little distance from the
+    much larger town, Quiroga. Santa Fe is quite a town, stretching for a considerable
+    distance along a terrace, but little elevated above the water level. The houses are
+    built of rather large, dark-brown, adobe bricks; the walls are usually white
+    plastered; the roofs of all the houses are tiled, and the supporting rafters of the
+    roof extend out far beyond <a name="page70"
+    id="page70"/>the front wall of the house, so that the passer on the
+    footpath is sheltered against rain and the noonday sun. The outer ends of these
+    rafters are cut to give an ornamental effect. All the houses are surrounded by fruit
+    trees&mdash;orange, lemon, lime, <i>ahuacate</i> and <i>chirimoya</i>. Each little
+    property is surrounded by a stone wall of some height; the gate-way through this,
+    giving entrance to the yard, is surmounted by a pretty little double-pitched roofing
+    of thatch.</p>
+    <p>A crowd of pure indians had gathered at the landing, by the time we were unloaded.
+    Forty or fifty men and women of medium stature, dark-brown skin and broad,
+    expressionless faces, watched our every movement with curiosity, but none was ready
+    to assist us in carrying our luggage to the <i>curato</i>. Taking it ourselves, as
+    best we could, we found a boy to direct us and made our way to the house. The
+    <i>cura</i>, had gone to Quiroga and his suspicious household would not receive us
+    until his return, although permitting us to leave our goods. Going to the
+    <i>plaza</i>, we succeeded in getting bread and cheese at a <i>tienda</i>, and after
+    eating loitered until, at half-past-two, the Padre Ponce made his appearance. We
+    showed him our letters and asked his interest and aid. He at once made us at home in
+    his house, summoned the officials, read the governor's letter aloud to them, and told
+    them it was their duty to assist us in every way. We at once began our work, and
+    before nightfall had measured and photographed a number of cases.</p>
+    <p>The next morning, Saturday, all started merrily. After breakfast, however, Padre
+    Ponce left us, going to Quiroga for celebrating Christmas. The moment he was gone,
+    work slackened, and it was with difficulty that we could procure subjects. Early the
+    next morning the <i>padre</i> appeared to say mass, after which he stirred up the
+    people and we were again at work. But as soon as he left for Quiroga, once more, the
+    interest diminished. Finally, as no one<a name="page71"
+    id="page71"/> came and the officials had disappeared, we started out
+    upon a tour of investigation. We found the whole town drunk; the <i>juez</i>, the
+    chief of police, the <i>mayores</i>, all were too drunk for measurement. We
+    experimented upon two or three subjects, but soon gave up in despair.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image018.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>LOS VIEJOS; SANTA FE DE LA LAGUNA</b></p>
+<br />
+
+    <p>Padre Ponce need not have gone to Quiroga for Christmas celebrations; we had them
+    also. For example, we had <i>Los Viejos</i>. One afternoon, we saw a band of
+    half-a-dozen persons singing in the street. All but one of them were men or boys
+    dressed in long robes of brilliant red, purple or green, which were buttoned down the
+    front; their heads were covered with white cloth, over which were fitted little masks
+    of clay. The last one in the company was a woman, dressed quite in the usual fashion,
+    but barefoot and with her <i>rebozo</i> covering her face and a man's <i>sombrero</i>
+    on her head. Two of the party had guitars of local manufacture. This company strolled
+    through the streets, singing and dancing; some of the dancing was clog-dance, some
+    the <i>jarabe</i>, a man and woman taking part. Having noticed this group, we saw
+    that the whole town seemed in movement toward the <i>corral</i> connected with the
+    shrine behind the church. Following with the crowd, we found the <i>corral</i>
+    already filled with people. The men were seated on benches or squatting against the
+    walls; women and children were sitting on the ground. We noticed that all the women
+    brought burdens, which proved to be pots full of hot <i>atole</i>, bundles of large
+    <i>tortillas</i>, trays heaped high with <i>tamales</i>, or sacks full of little
+    cups. Various bands of dancers made their way around, delighting the crowd with their
+    performances. The group we had already seen was the least interesting. Those that
+    really represented <i>los viejos</i> (the old men) were the best. These wore large,
+    comic, wooden masks, many of which showed signs of long-continued use; one
+    represented a long, warty, bearded face and was painted <a
+    name="page72" id="page72"/>purple; others were painted red or brown,
+    but most of them were of the natural color of the wood; great wigs of corn-husk or of
+    matting were worn over the back of the head; the clothing was ragged and dirty, and
+    in some cases was really of ancient style; some wore roughly made garments of the
+    skin of the <i>tigre</i>. Each band had its leader, and each tried to outdo the
+    others in the oddity of performance, vigor of dancing and coarseness of jest. Much
+    fun and laughter were caused by their antics. Meantime, boys and young women were
+    busied as waiters. Cups of steaming <i>atole</i>, delicious <i>tortillas</i>, hot
+    <i>tamales</i> were distributed until everyone, including the strangers, were
+    supplied. No one ate until the whole company had been served, when the town officials
+    set the example and all fell to feasting. Dancing, music, laughter and fun followed,
+    and were kept up until some time after nightfall.</p>
+    <p>On the second day after Christmas a strolling band of <i>pastores</i>, from San
+    Geronimo, passed from house to house singing their Christmas songs. The company
+    consisted of two or three musicians, a carrier&mdash;who was an indian boy about
+    fifteen years old&mdash;and half a dozen other youngsters, wearing new palm hats and
+    carrying long staves ending above in a loop from which streamed strips of brilliantly
+    colored tissue paper. The carrier bore a cushion, upon which was stretched a figure
+    of the infant Christ. At each house, he passed before the spectators, allowing them
+    to kiss the figure and to deposit gifts of flowers or of money for the little church
+    at San Geronimo; the music then struck up, the leader began to sing, and the little
+    shepherds (<i>pastores</i>) marched around and around singing in chorus.</p>
+    <p>We lost quite two days on account of the drunkenness of the town. When it was
+    past, by a vigorous indulgence in wheedling and threatening, we got the work again
+    under way, and were just finishing with our one-hundredth man,<a name="page73" id="page73"/> when Padre Ponce
+    returned for good and all. We had nearly starved during his absence; his old
+    housekeeper had done her best with the poor materials which we were able to secure,
+    but the best was bad. With Padre Ponce came another priest, Padre Torres of
+    Patzcuaro, who used to be located at Santa Fe and was much loved by the natives. With
+    the assistance of the two Padres we were able to secure and deal with our female
+    subjects in less than a day, and were ready to bid adieu to the <i>padrecitos</i> and
+    leave for Tzintzuntzan.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image019a.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>CHURCHYARD AND BELLS; TZINTZUNTZAN</b></p>
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image019b.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>VIEW AT JANICHO; LAKE PATZCUARO</b></p>
+<br />
+
+
+    <p>All the tourist world that goes to Patzcuaro visits Tzintzuntzan to see the
+    Titian. Padre Ponce was anxious to have us see the famous picture and photograph it.
+    It was late when we reached the town, which consists in large part of <i>mestizos</i>
+    and indians who speak little but native Tarascan. We found the <i>cura</i> was not in
+    town, but were taken to the <i>curato</i>; arrived there, we discovered that the good
+    man had taken his keys with him. We arranged, with some difficulty, for something to
+    eat, and, after supper, were shown into an open room, with an unfinished roof,
+    without a door, and with no hint of bed. Here we shared a lumber pile with two or
+    three young men and suffered frightfully from cold all night. We were up early, as
+    sleep was impossible, and filled our time as best we could, until it was light enough
+    to photograph the picture.</p>
+    <p>We had our letter from Padre Ponce to the <i>cura</i>, in which he recommended the
+    priest to have us photograph the painting. This letter and the governor's letter we
+    had shown the town officials the night before, telling them that we should make the
+    picture. They replied that they could not give permission to do so during the
+    <i>padre's</i> absence. After we had breakfasted, and the light had become
+    sufficient, we made our way to the old church, in front of which are some beautifully
+    gnarled and irregular ancient <a name="page74"
+    id="page74"/>olive trees, amid which the old bells are quaintly hung.
+    Entering the church, we soon found the Titian, a descent from the cross. The figures
+    are boldly painted and skillfully grouped; the action and lighting concentrate upon
+    the figure of the Christ. Padre Ponce had told us that the proper place from which to
+    photograph was the pulpit, and he was right. The sacristan was looking on with doubt:
+    when he saw us making preparations for the picture, he hurried to us and said it was
+    against all rule for anyone to take a photograph when the <i>cura</i> was not
+    present. We told him our time was short; that we must return to Patzcuaro that day to
+    arrange our farther journey; we showed the governor's order and Padre Ponce's letter,
+    but all in vain. We must wait until the <i>cura</i> came. With this I put some
+    <i>centavos</i> in his hand and told him I was certain his duties called him outside
+    the church and that we would not detain him; that we should stay awhile to gaze upon
+    the picture, which deserved close and pious examination. He at once withdrew, locking
+    the door behind him. The instrument was quickly placed in the pulpit and the picture
+    taken. Curiously, the sacristal duties ended just as we were ready to leave the
+    church and the door opened as if we had said "Open sesame."</p>
+    <p>By ten-thirty we had secured a canoe and boatmen, two young and vigorous
+    pure-blood indians. Though a wind was blowing squarely against us, we made good time.
+    We stopped at the picturesque fishing-village of Janicho, on its rock island. Its
+    houses cluster on a little terrace near the bottom of the hill, which rises behind it
+    as a fine background. Steps of rock lead up the stony slope from the water's edge to
+    the houses. In every yard mattings are laid, upon which little white fish are drying.
+    As they walk through the streets or stand talking together, the men are ever tatting
+    at nets; long lines of net-cord are<a name="page75"
+    id="page75"/> reeled out for many yards along the wayside; hundreds of
+    feet of seines are hung out in the sun to dry. The houses, with their pretty red
+    tiling, are irregularly clustered along narrow winding streets. The people are purely
+    indian, and wear the characteristic dress.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image020.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>TARASCAN FISHERMEN; JANICHO</b></p>
+<br />
+
+    <p>No town in all the region makes so much use of the <i>tsupakua</i>, or
+    spear-thrower, a wooden stick cut to fit the hand and support the shaft of a spear or
+    long dart, the end of which rests against a peg near the tip of the thrower. By means
+    of this instrument, the long, light, darts of cane with iron points are thrown more
+    directly and forcibly than by the hand alone. These spears are used in hunting ducks.
+    Anciently a spear-throwing stick was widely used through Mexico; to-day it lingers in
+    few places, the best known of which is here on Lake Patzcuaro.</p>
+    <hr style="width: 65%;" />
+    <h2><a name="CHAPTER_VII" id="CHAPTER_VII"></a>CHAPTER VII</h2>
+    <a name="page76" id="page76"/>
+    <h2>TO URUAPAN BEFORE THE RAILROAD</h2>
+    <h3>(1898)</h3>
+    <p>We easily arranged at Patzcuaro to leave for Uruapan the next morning. Although
+    delayed beyond our proposed hour of starting, we were off at six. It was early
+    enough, indeed, for the morning air was cold; heavy frost coated the leaves and grass
+    and lay upon the soil; in spite of our heavy blankets, wrapped closely about us, we
+    shivered as we rode along upon our horses.</p>
+    <p>The ride, however, was a lovely one. At first we seemed to leave the lake behind
+    us; mounting for some time we reached a summit from which it again broke upon our
+    view; descending, we constantly caught glimpses of it, with its sinuous shores, its
+    lovely mountain backgrounds, its islands, and its pretty indian towns. Finally, we
+    again left it and rose into a magnificent mountain region, covered chiefly with
+    pines. Passing through Ajuno, which lies upon a steep slope, we overtook a party of
+    police, mounted on horses, taking a group of prisoners to Uruapan. At Escondidas,
+    itself a miserable village, we were impressed by the mercantile spirit of these
+    indians. In all these villages the houses are constructed of heavy logs or timbers,
+    closely and neatly joined; the roofs are shingled with long and narrow shingles, and
+    are abruptly four-sloped. At every house there was something for sale&mdash;food,
+    drink, or <i>cigarros</i>. All these houses were built close to the edge of the road,
+    and in the middle of the front was a little square window, in which the goods were
+    shown. When no trade<a name="page77"
+    id="page77"/> was solicited, these windows were closed with solid
+    wooden shutters. Not only, however, was every house a store, but on the highway
+    between towns, we passed many places where, beneath brush shelters, women offered
+    fruit, food, or drink for sale. Usually several such shelters would be near together,
+    and the venders had gay times, chatting, laughing and singing. Such houses and
+    roadside-selling are common through the whole Tarascan region.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image021.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>TARASCAN WOMEN; JANICHO</b></p>
+<br />
+
+    <p>Soon after passing Escondidas, we began a descent, which seemed absolutely
+    endless. Time after time we thought we had reached the bottom, only to find that we
+    were on a terrace from which another drop led us still further down. On and on into
+    this bottomless pit we descended to Ziracuaretaro, a striking town. Banana plantings
+    surrounded the houses; orange-trees covered with their golden spheres reared
+    themselves to the unusual height of thirty feet or more; <i>mam&eacute;ys</i>, with
+    their strange nut-brown fruits, and coffee-trees, loaded to breaking, were abundant.
+    Amid this luxuriant mass of tropical vegetation, houses were almost invisible until
+    we were directly in front of them. Notwithstanding the enormous descent we had made,
+    it appeared to us, when we crossed the stream and began the ascent, that we had not
+    really been to the bottom of the great valley. For a long distance we mounted through
+    a district of sugar-canes; then passed a little settlement of rude huts spread out
+    over a reddish space; then, by a gentle but circuitous ascent, to a rugged trail
+    which brought us to the summit and the edge of the great slope to Uruapan. At the
+    further side of the valley and to our left, in a mass of green, we saw smoke rising
+    from the factories of Uruapan. Crossing one of the characteristic bridges of the
+    district, with a pretty shingled roof&mdash;four-sloped like those of the
+    houses&mdash;over it, and with benches at the sides, where passers can sit and rest,
+    while looking at the dashing, gurg<a name="page78"
+    id="page78"/>ling, foaming, water below,&mdash;we followed a level
+    road between blackberries, wild roses, and other shrubs, to Uruapan.</p>
+    <p>No town in Mexico is more beautiful. Perpetual spring reigns. Although several
+    thousand feet above sea level, it is so situated, with reference to mountain slopes
+    and funnel valleys, that it has a genial climate, where plants nourish which are
+    usually found only at lower altitudes. Its fruits and "the finest coffee in the
+    world" have rendered the town long famous. The houses, bowered in dense groves of
+    green, are of the picturesque Tarascan type. The four-sloped roofs, now covered with
+    long, narrow shingles, now with the dull red tiles, suggest the prettiest pictures in
+    Japanese towns. The streets are clean. Through the centre of the town dashes a
+    mountain stream of clearest water, with the hue of sapphire. This pretty stream
+    furnishes power for mills, factories and lighting-plant, and is crossed several times
+    by picturesque, roofed bridges, in the shelter of which one may spend hours in
+    watching the dashing water, foaming cascades, curious potholes worn in the rocky
+    banks, and the passing Indians. Most Mexican towns are contented with one
+    <i>plaza</i>; this one has three, following each other closely, separated only by
+    single lines of narrow buildings. They are neatly planted, and supplied with
+    bandstand and monuments. The town is electric-lighted and several hotels had been
+    lately put in readiness to receive the crowd of visitors expected with the completion
+    of the railroad, a matter of a few months later.</p>
+    <p>The <i>prefecto</i> of Uruapan and <i>jefe politico</i> of the district is the
+    son-in-law of Governor Mercado, and to him we bore a special letter from his
+    father-in-law. The old gentleman had been insistent that we should return by
+    Capacuaro and Cheran, indian towns. He said that at the former we should find a
+    <i>mogote</i> (mound or heap of stones and dirt)<a
+    name="page79" id="page79"/> which every traveler should see, while at
+    the latter Lumholtz had secured some skulls of exceptional interest, and that we
+    should do the same. As our time was short, we asked the <i>prefecto</i> to send a
+    messenger to Cheran with orders to dig some skulls and have them ready against the
+    time of our arrival. That official expressed delight in doing our bidding, and we saw
+    the messenger summoned and the order placed in his hands, with full direction as to
+    its delivery.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image022.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>INDIAN SPEAR-THROWER; LAKE PATZCUARO</b></p>
+<br />
+
+    <p>Meantime, there were objects of interest for us in Uruapan itself. The town is
+    famous for its lacquer work, made with <i>aje</i>, like that of Chiapa. Gourds are
+    ornamented, fruit-forms are colored after nature, bowls made from fruit shells are
+    elaborately decorated, all quite like the Chiapa work. What is characteristic of
+    Uruapan are the placques and table-tops of wood, decorated with floral designs in
+    brilliant colors, upon a background of dark-green, pink, blue, yellow, or black. This
+    art is in the hands of a few persons, some pure indians. Visiting them, we found the
+    wooden placques and table-tops are brought from one of the mountain villages of the
+    Tarascans; they are first covered thickly with the background color; upon this the
+    pattern is pencilled and then cut out in the lacquered surface; the color, mixed with
+    oil and <i>aje</i>, as with other substances, is then applied with the finger-tips to
+    fill the cut patterns; the lustre is then brought out by careful rubbing. The work is
+    striking, and is prized throughout the Republic.</p>
+    <p>In the same quarter of the town, where this local industry is carried on, are many
+    goitrous persons. The disease seems to be confined to the one district, but there
+    perhaps one-half the people have it, most of them to but a slight degree.
+    Occasionally the swelling is notable, and in the families affected we find, as usual,
+    deaf-mutism.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image023.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>HOUSES AT URUAPAN</b></p>
+<br />
+
+    <p>On the morning of New Year's day, we left for Capa<a
+    name="page80" id="page80"/>cuaro and Cheran. As we rode out from the
+    city, we were more than ever impressed with its verdant beauty and picturesqueness.
+    The road to Capacuaro was unexpectedly level and good, and we reached the town, which
+    is purely indian, by nine o'clock. Women, almost without exception, wore the native
+    dress. Goitres were common, and some, among the men, were really enormous. Riding
+    through the long town, we drew up before the house of the <i>jefe de policia</i>
+    (chief of police), and summoned the village officials. On their appearance we found
+    that all but the <i>jefe</i> himself, were drunk, the <i>secretario</i> in particular
+    being almost useless. When we handed him the letter from the <i>prefecto</i> he was
+    quite unable to make aught of its grandiloquence. Having looked it through in a dazed
+    way, he declared that we were "gringos," "like the one who was here last year"
+    (presumably Lumholtz). With some severity, I told him he did wrong to call visitors
+    to the town by the opprobrious name of <i>gringos</i>, and ordered him to read the
+    letter and make known its contents to the <i>jefe</i>. He made another effort and
+    then helplessly said&mdash;"Who can make anything of such a letter? It is in their
+    <i>idioma</i>." Sternly pointing to the signature I said&mdash;"The letter is from
+    your <i>prefecto</i> and written in his <i>idioma</i>; you see the <i>firma</i>."
+    Helplessly shaking his head, he said, "Oh, yes, the <i>firma</i> is that of Silvano
+    Martinez, but the letter is in your <i>idioma</i>." Seeing that he was of no earthly
+    use, I took the letter from him, and, turning to the crowd which had gathered,
+    rebuked them for their drunkenness, asserting that it was disgraceful for a whole
+    town government to be intoxicated at the same time; that some one ought always to be
+    sober enough to attend to business; that we had been insulted by being called
+    <i>gringos</i>, and that our order had not been read to them because the
+    <i>secretario</i> was too drunk to do his business; that there were two ways<a name="page81" id="page81"/> of dealing with such
+    town governments, and that, unless something was done promptly, we would see how they
+    would like to go back with us to Uruapan, whence we had come. The <i>jefe</i>, who
+    was really not drunk, thereupon begged to know what we desired, and the drunken
+    <i>secretario</i> was somewhat frightened; the remainder of the official body
+    expressed a wish to do only what we wanted. I then read the <i>prefecto's</i> letter
+    in my best manner and added that we had come to Capacuaro only at the desire of the
+    governor himself, to visit their <i>mogote</i>, and that we ought to wait no longer
+    for guidance. At once all was commotion and bustle. Bidding the disgraced
+    <i>secretario</i> go to his house and stay there, the <i>jefe de policia</i> summoned
+    the rest of his company about him, seized his staff of office, buckled on his great
+    <i>machete</i>, and took the lead; three policemen, with their <i>machetes</i>,
+    followed; two others, unarmed, followed, and, with this escort, we started to hunt
+    our ruins on the mountain. They proved to be two heaps of rubbish, from constructions
+    of stone. Had we had time for serious investigation they might have proved of
+    interest; as it was, we spent but a few minutes in their inspection, and then,
+    bidding our drunken escort good-bye, we continued our journey. We had planned to go
+    first to Nehuatzen, thence to Parracho, and, after visiting Cheran, back again to
+    Nehuatzen. At the <i>mogote</i>, however, we were already near the Parracho highway
+    and at once struck into it. Our journey led through forests, chiefly of pine, with
+    open glades, at intervals; on many of the trees we saw great bunches of a parasite
+    that bore honeysuckle-like, yellow flowers. Parracho we found lying at the base of
+    mountains at the very end of a long stretch of level. It is an unattractive town, our
+    only reason for visiting which was to see something of the manufacture of its famous
+    <i>rebozos</i>, which differ from others in the wide border of white and azure blue
+    silk, <a name="page82" id="page82"/>which is
+    attached to a netted foundation to form decorative patterns, representing birds and
+    animals, or geometric figures. The work is curious, and I am inclined to see in it a
+    surviving imitation of the ancient feather-work for which the ancient Tarascans were
+    famous. From Parracho our road led through Aranza to Cheran. Just beyond Aranza we
+    passed over the astonishing wash from some summer torrent. During the wet season a
+    single rain may fill the gorges, sheet the mountain slopes with water, tear great
+    trees from their hold, break off mighty rock fragments and carry them onward, like
+    wooden blocks, with hundreds of tons of finer gravel. At this season there was not a
+    sign of water; not a trickling thread was visible in any of the gorges; but from
+    their now dried mouths there spread fan-shaped deposits many rods in length and
+    breadth, containing quantities of blocks of rock that measured from four to ten feet
+    in diameter, trunks of trees up to two feet in thickness, all in the greatest
+    confusion and at places completely covering our road to a depth of several feet. We
+    could trace the tailing out of the fans of deposit, from their thicker, heavier part
+    at the base of the torrent, to their margin on the plain; from heavy rock masses
+    weighing tons, through smaller masses, into sand and gravel.</p>
+    <p>The way to Cheran seemed endless, but at last we reached that interesting, great
+    indian town, when the afternoon was nearly spent. It was the New Year, and the street
+    celebration of <i>los negritos</i> (the negroes&mdash;or the little negroes) was in
+    progress. As we rode through the streets, however, we attracted much attention and
+    the performance was neglected. We rode directly to the town-house, entered and asked
+    for the <i>presidente</i>. He was slow in appearing and long before he arrived scores
+    of people were crowding around the doors and windows to see us and know our business.
+    When he arrived, we greeted him <a name="page83"
+    id="page83"/>in a most friendly way and told him that we had come for
+    the skulls. He looked aghast. "The skulls, what skulls, sir?" "The skulls the
+    <i>prefecto</i> ordered you to dig for us." By this time, the crowd outside, which
+    had increased with every minute, showed uneasiness. The <i>presidente</i> declared he
+    knew nothing of any skulls. After we had explained the matter more fully, he assured
+    us that no messenger had come from the <i>prefecto</i>; this, which at first we
+    thought to be a lie, was no doubt true. He was plainly scared. He begged us to be
+    careful lest the people, who were ignorant, should overhear us. He told us that a
+    year before Don Carlos (Lumholtz) had been there; that he, too, had wanted skulls,
+    and that the town officials had given him permission to dig some from the graveyard;
+    that this caused so much excitement and so many threats that the permission had to be
+    revoked. He feared the people had already heard our wishes and were even then in an
+    ugly mood&mdash;a thing which seemed likely from an inspection of the faces in the
+    doorway and windows. He said, however, that Don Carlos afterward secured some skulls
+    from an ancient burial-place not distant from the village, and, if we pleased to wait
+    in Cheran through the morrow, as it was now too late, five in the evening, to do
+    aught, he would gladly show us the burial place of the ancients, where no doubt
+    abundant skulls could be secured. Not yet certain that the man was telling truth, we
+    spoke to him severely, saying that we should report him to the governor for not
+    having obeyed the order of the <i>prefecto</i>. At the same time we demanded an
+    official document signed by himself as <i>presidente</i>, and by the
+    <i>secretario</i>, and duly sealed, stating that no messenger had come to him from
+    the <i>prefecto</i>. To our surprise this document was promptly furnished, good
+    evidence that the <i>prefecto</i> had played us false, only pretending to despatch
+    the messenger whom we had seen started.<a name="page84"
+    id="page84"/></p>
+    <p>With profuse apologies and expressions of regret from the officials, we left
+    Cheran, hurrying on to Nehuatzen for the night. Our chief reason for doing so was
+    that everyone who knew of our intention to visit Cheran had shaken their heads,
+    remarking "Ah! there the nights are always cold." Certainly, if it is colder there
+    than at Nehuatzen, we would prefer the frigid zone outright. Nehuatzen is famous as
+    the town where the canoes for Lake Patzcuaro are made. We had difficulty in securing
+    food and a place to sleep. The room in which we were expected to slumber was hung
+    with an extensive wardrobe of female garments. These we added to the blankets we
+    carried with us, but suffered all night long from the penetrating cold. The two
+    indian boys, who accompanied us as guides and carriers, slept in the corridor outside
+    our door and when day broke they were so cramped and numbed and stiff with cold, that
+    they lighted matches and thrust their cold hands into the flames, before they could
+    move their finger-joints. We had planned to leave at five, but it was too cold to
+    ride until the sun should be an hour high, so finally we left at seven. There was
+    heavy frost on everything; curved frost crystals protruded from the soil, and we
+    broke ice a half inch thick in water-troughs, unfinished canoes, by the roadside.</p>
+    <p>For ten hours we rode, without even stopping for lunch, through Sabina and
+    Pichataro, San Juan Tumbio and Ajuno, back to comfortable Patzcuaro.</p>
+    <hr style="width: 65%;" />
+    <h2><a name="CHAPTER_VIII" id="CHAPTER_VIII"></a>CHAPTER VIII</h2>
+    <a name="page85" id="page85"/>
+    <h2>TLAXCALA</h2>
+    <h3>(1898)</h3>
+    <p>We have always loved the State of Tlaxcala and its quaint little capital city of
+    the same name. For more than a dozen years its governor has been Prospero Cahuantzi,
+    a pure-blood indian, whose native language is Aztec. He is a large, well built man,
+    with full face and little black eyes that are sunken deeply into the flesh. He is a
+    man of some force and energy. The population of his little state, the most densely
+    populated in the Republic, is almost entirely indian, and it at once fears, hates,
+    and respects him. Having made several previous visits to the city, and having always
+    been graciously received by Don Prospero, we thought it hardly necessary to carry
+    with us our usual letters of recommendation from the Federal authorities.</p>
+    <p>Just before we were ready to visit Tlaxcala, while we were in the City of Mexico,
+    we learned that Governor Cahuantzi was there, on business. We thought it best to call
+    upon him, explaining our proposed work and asking his interest. So to the Hotel Sanz,
+    where he always stops when in the Capital, we went. We called twice without finding
+    him and our third call appeared to be as unsuccessful, but just as we were leaving,
+    resolved not to try again, we met the governor alighting from his carriage at the
+    door. Intercepting him, we asked a moment's interview, which was granted, though with
+    ill grace. It was plain that he was sadly out of humor. Apologizing to him for our
+    intrusion at so late an hour and so immediately after his return <a name="page86" id="page86"/>to his hotel, we told
+    him of our projected visit, described the measurements, photographs and other data we
+    were gathering, reminding him that two years earlier he had heard our plans and
+    promised his assistance. In a somewhat gentler mood, he told us we might visit
+    Tlaxcala and that he would aid us, but he must have a little time "for preparing the
+    soil;" that all his people were indians, and that our work would necessarily be
+    considered with suspicion. Upon our asking him how much time would be needed "to
+    prepare the soil," we received no definite reply. He, himself, planned to leave for
+    home the following morning, Friday; so we suggested that we would go first to Puebla,
+    and reach his capital on Monday. He plainly considered this somewhat hasty, but
+    grunted his assent, and we left him, somewhat surprised at his unusual gruffness and
+    lack of interest.</p>
+    <p>Early Monday morning, we appeared upon the scene. After breakfast we betook
+    ourselves to the state palace; the governor was already in his reception room, but,
+    instead of being ushered promptly into his presence, as had always happened in our
+    previous visits, we were left to sit two hours in the outer office. Finally, on our
+    displaying some impatience, a message was again taken to his Excellency, and a few
+    minutes later, the <i>jefe politico</i> of the district bustled past us into the
+    carefully guarded reception chamber. He did not long remain there, and, on coming out
+    into the office where we were waiting, brusquely asked, "Are you the persons who want
+    to measure heads? Well, they are waiting for you out there in the corridor; why don't
+    you go to work?" Seizing our instruments, blanks and camera, we hurried to the
+    corridor and began operations. Three or four were measured in quick succession; then,
+    when I cried, "<i>Otro</i>" (another), the <i>jefe's</i> eyes began to bulge. That
+    one measured, and another called for, he seemed half-dis<a
+    name="page87" id="page87"/>tracted; desperation seized him; as he
+    faintly repeated "<i>Otro</i>" he looked wildly around in search of subjects and it
+    was plain that he had not begun to realize what demands we planned to make upon him.
+    Before the noonday rest, we had measured fourteen subjects, but the <i>jefe's</i>
+    personal interest had ceased, and he had completely disappeared from the scene of
+    action. When we returned at three o'clock to resume work, only the guards were there
+    to help us. One and another subject, invited to be measured, showed no interest in
+    advancing science. So, Mr. Wilson went to see the <i>jefe</i> in his office; the old
+    man was furious and actually ran out, with the statement that he had plenty of his
+    own work to do. When this scene had been reported, it in no wise increased the
+    readiness of subjects to undergo the operation. Finding that we were accomplishing
+    nothing, we decided upon desperate measures. Going to the office of the governor's
+    private secretary, we insisted on his telling the chief executive that we were losing
+    time, that no one was assisting us, that subjects were obdurate and stubborn, and
+    that something must be promptly done. We waited but a few minutes. The fiat went
+    forth; the <i>jefe politico</i> appeared, puffing and blowing, and wildly excited. He
+    was closeted a moment with the governor. On his reappearance, we greeted him
+    cordially, and told him that the people present would not be measured and indicated
+    one particularly stubborn subject, who was dealt with, promptly, and without gloves.
+    The <i>jefe</i> remained long enough to reestablish order, though, under his breath,
+    he muttered curses and threats, and expressed his feeling to any official, who
+    chanced to pass. He said the business was driving him clean crazy; that he was doing
+    what he did, not for love of us, but from respect to the orders of his chief. Having
+    set the ball to rolling, he left us and there were no more delays.<a name="page88" id="page88"/></p>
+    <p>When the labor of the day was over, we stopped at the <i>jefe's</i> office to
+    inform him that we should continue work the following day, and emphasized the fact
+    that we wished one hundred cases, and, as yet, had less than half that number. We
+    suggested that systematic arrangements would not only facilitate <i>our</i> labor,
+    but would lessen his own task. The result was evident; on the following day
+    delegations, ordered by the <i>jefe</i>, and consisting of from six to a dozen
+    persons each, began to come in from the outlying villages. This made our work easy,
+    indeed. In one respect, Tlaxcala differs from all the other Mexican states with which
+    we are acquainted. Most of the people live in very little towns, which cluster around
+    the larger places. Thus, around the capital city, Tlaxcala, there are some seventeen
+    of these small pueblos.</p>
+    <p>Working at the palace, we had secured almost no women for measurement. Asking the
+    advice of the <i>cura</i>, in the matter, he recommended that we should go to some
+    one of the neighboring indian villages; that he would give us a letter to the
+    <i>juez</i> and that, thus, we would secure our subjects easily. He suggested San
+    Estevan and wrote the promised letter to the <i>juez</i> of that village. San Estevan
+    is a pretty village, near the summit of some low gray hills of tufa, behind which
+    rises a background of higher hills of the same material. The slope is terraced for
+    the houses, which are all built of adobe bricks and have flat roofs. The "three part
+    house," of the ancient Aztec type&mdash;god-house, kitchen, and granary&mdash;is
+    better shown in this state than almost any other part of the Republic. The granary,
+    or <i>cuezcomate</i>, is particularly characteristic. It is built of clay, in the
+    form of a great vase or urn, open at the top, above which is built a little thatch to
+    shed rain and to protect the contents. The <i>cuezcomate</i> is often ten feet high.
+    One or more of them is found in connection with every house.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image024.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>HOUSE AND CUEZCOMATE; LOS REYES</b></p>
+<br />
+
+    <p><a name="page89" id="page89"/> The <i>juez</i>
+    lived in a comfortable house of two rooms, half of which is used at present for the
+    boy's school, of which his son is teacher. He received us graciously, and was pleased
+    to receive a letter from the <i>padre</i>, though he stated it was not a government
+    order and carried no actual authority; that if the women cared to be measured, well
+    and good, but if not, no force could be employed. The appearance of the camera,
+    however, interested him; plainly, he desired to have a family group photographed; he
+    hinted at this so broadly that, taking him to one side, I whispered that it was, of
+    course, impossible to take family groups for everyone, but if we secured the
+    twenty-five women without delay, notwithstanding the fact that we had no more
+    authoritative document than a <i>cura's</i> letter, the group should be taken. The
+    effect was immediate. The police were summoned and sent through the village to bring
+    in women for measurement and naught was said about their right of refusal.</p>
+    <p>When, toward evening, we returned from San Estevan, tired but quite satisfied with
+    the day's work, we found a delegation of more than a dozen men waiting for us in the
+    <i>plaza</i>. We did not need so large a number to complete our work, and it was
+    nearly dark; we would gladly have dismissed them and run our chances of securing
+    others the next day. But neither they nor the <i>jefe politico</i> were to be
+    bluffed. So we marched into the corridor, lighted candles and got to work. When those
+    lacking to make our full hundred had been measured, we proposed to let the others go,
+    but they were not to be thus got rid of, and insisted on being measured as such were
+    the orders of the governor. We were not through until long after dark, and we were
+    ravenously hungry.</p>
+    <p>This delegation was one of the most attractive, clean, and intelligent with whom
+    we had dealt. It was from Los<a name="page90"
+    id="page90"/> Reyes, a little town at a distance of about half a
+    league. It was headed by the village <i>juez</i>. After we had completed the
+    measuring, they stood, shifting their <i>sombreros</i> from hand to hand and plainly
+    wishing to say something further; finally, mustering courage, the <i>juez</i> and
+    <i>secretario</i> advanced and stated that it was the town's desire to have a picture
+    taken of the church, with the saint and people of the village before the door. Would
+    it be possible for us to make the picture and on what conditions? We replied that
+    time was precious and that the trip, if it involved a loss of time, was quite
+    impossible; but if they supplied carriers to take the instruments to and from their
+    village, and had all ready before seven in the morning, we would make it. Delighted,
+    the officials then inquired what we would wish for breakfast; we answered French
+    bread and red wine. When we looked out of our window, a little before seven, we saw
+    our party ready and waiting. The <i>juez</i>, the <i>secretario</i>, and two others
+    made the company. A basket, carefully carried by one, was suspected to contain our
+    breakfast. The burdens were shouldered, and we started out in the cool, fresh morning
+    air, for the village, where we arrived in about half an hour. It is a town of less
+    than one hundred people, situated upon a little mountain, hidden, to one looking from
+    Tlaxcala, by intervening hills. We were received in the town-house, which is a
+    portion of the old church building; mass was in progress, and we told those who
+    received us, that we had no wish to interfere with their religious duties; that those
+    who wished, might go to service. Most went, but two or three were left as a committee
+    of entertainment. They took us to a view-point from which there was a magnificent
+    valley to be seen. And, here, we found one of the finest echoes possible. Rockets
+    were exploded and the noise was echoed from hill to hill around the great
+    amphitheatre; it was like a long reverberation of thunder, but</p>
+    <a name="page91" id="page91"/> <br />
+     <br />
+
+    <p>it sank and swelled, sank and swelled, repeatedly, until it seemed that it would
+    never stop. Service over, the procession formed, and the <i>santito</i> was brought
+    out before the church. The townspeople were arranged and the view taken. We were then
+    invited in to breakfast, which was fine. There were plenty of French rolls and the
+    red wine brought from town, and a great heap of <i>enchiladas</i>, fresh lettuce and
+    eggs. After eating, we expressed a wish to hear the village drum, a great
+    <i>huehuetl</i>. This musical instrument is a reminder of the olden times; it is not
+    found everywhere, but a number of indian towns possess one, which is kept to be
+    played on festal occasions. The one as Los Reyes was some three feet or so in height,
+    a hollow cylinder of wood with a membrane stretched across the upper end; it was
+    painted blue. A chair of state was placed for me in the little <i>patio</i>. After I
+    was seated the three musicians took their places,&mdash;one played the great
+    <i>huehuetl</i>, a second beat the <i>tambour</i> or ordinary drum, the third
+    performed upon the <i>chirimiya</i>, a shrill wooden pipe. It was the first time we
+    had really heard a <i>huehuetl</i>. The player used two sticks with padded heads,
+    beating with great force in excellent time. The booming of the instruments was
+    audible to a great distance. The whole village had gathered, and in a momentary lull
+    in the music, I told the people of the ancient use of the <i>huehuetl</i>; that
+    Bernal Diaz, in his history of the Conquest of Mexico, tells us what feelings filled
+    the hearts of the Spaniards, when they heard the great <i>huehuetl</i>, in the temple
+    of the ancient city of Tenochtitlan; then it was chiefly beaten when human victims
+    were being sacrificed to the gods, and the soldiers knew that some fellow-countryman,
+    or a Tlaxcalan ally, was dying. Never have I given a public lecture, that was
+    listened to with more attention or greater appreciation.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image025a.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>THE VILLAGE AND ITS SAINT; LOS REYES</b></p>
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image025b.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>CUEZCOMATE, OR GRANARY; SAN NICOLAS
+PANOTLA</b></p>
+<br />
+
+    <p>The day we measured women at San Estevan, we found <a
+    name="page92" id="page92"/>an indian mason there at work, whom we had
+    measured at Tlaxcala, and with whom, on one occasion, we had some conversation. He
+    was disgusted at the conduct of the women while undergoing measurement, and at
+    evening said, "Sir, it is a pity for you to waste your time in a town like this;
+    these people are little better than animals; in my town there is great enthusiasm
+    over your work, and by going there you might do your will and find people with minds,
+    not beasts." There was really no work left to be done, but we desired to see a town
+    where there was great enthusiasm over our investigations. Hence, we arranged with
+    Ignacio Cempoalteca to visit his pueblo of San Nicolas Panotla. Accordingly, on the
+    afternoon of the day when we visited Los Reyes, we went across the valley to Panotla,
+    Ignacio and an older brother, Jose, met us at the hotel, where&mdash;excusing himself
+    on account of the mason-work at San Estevan, which could not wait&mdash;Ignacio left
+    us, assuring us that Jose would do everything for us. This was quite true, and we
+    found Panotla all that it had been painted.</p>
+    <p>Jose led us directly to their home. The walls were well built of stone set in
+    adobe mortar; they were smoothly coated with a snowy plaster; the supporting walls of
+    the little terrace on which the house was built were also well constructed and it was
+    with some pride that Jose told us that the work had all been done by himself and
+    Ignacio. Jose is married and has a wife and three children; Ignacio is a bachelor; a
+    younger brother, Carmen, is also unmarried&mdash;he has taught himself free-hand and
+    architectural drawing and showed us examples of his work. The old father and mother
+    own the home and received us hospitably. Jose guided us through the village, where we
+    photographed whatever took our fancy, entered houses, examined all that interested
+    us, and really found enthusiasm for our work
+    <a name="page93" id="page93"></a>
+everywhere. Before the churchyard stands a quaint old cross of stone, dated 1728,
+    upon which are represented all the symbols of Christ's passion; a long inscription in
+    Aztec is cut into the base. Close by the church, we visited the boy's school, where
+    we found some forty dark-skinned, black-eyed, youngsters, whose mother-speech is
+    Aztec. We proposed to photograph them, so they were grouped outside the schoolhouse,
+    but not until a pair of national flags and the portrait of the governor, Prospero
+    Cahuantzi, were fixed upon the background wall.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image026a.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>THE ANCIENT DRUM&mdash;HUEHUETL; LOS
+REYES</b></p>
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image026b.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>FIESTA AT CHOLULA; DAY OF SAN ANTONIO
+ABAD</b></p>
+<br />
+
+
+    <p>After the picture had been taken, we told the <i>maestro</i> we would like to hear
+    the boys sing. It was plain he did not consider singing their strong forte, but our
+    wishes were met. One boy, standing, wielded the baton, beating time. When the singing
+    was done with, the <i>maestro</i> said he would like us to see the class in
+    arithmetic, if we had time. Accordingly fourteen or fifteen boys, from ten to
+    fourteen years of age, stepped out upon the dirt floor; we were told that they could
+    work examples in percentage, interest, bonds and mortgages, discount,
+    alligation&mdash;which did we prefer? Truth to say, it was so long since we had
+    studied alligation, that we had really forgotten what it was, and so expressed a
+    preference for it. "Very good, sir," said the <i>maestro</i>. "Will you not propound
+    a problem?" From this quandary we escaped by stating that we could not think of doing
+    so; that we had every confidence in his fairness and that he had better give it, as
+    the boys were more accustomed to him. We have visited many classes of the same grade
+    and age in the United States and have never seen one that would surpass them in
+    quickness, accuracy, and clearness of explanation. After our trip through San Nicolas
+    Panotla, Jose took us back to his house, where, meantime, a, dinner had been made
+    ready.</p>
+    <hr style='width: 45%;' />
+    <a name="page94" id="page94"/>
+    <p>Weeks later, we learned the probable reason of the governor's gruffness, which was
+    in such marked contrast to his previous treatment, that it puzzled us considerably.
+    At about the time of our visit, a number of wealthy <i>hacienderos,</i> of the State
+    of Tlaxcala, had been arrested for counterfeiting silver money. They were men whose
+    <i>magu&eacute;y</i> fields brought them enormous incomes; one would suppose their
+    legitimate sources of wealth would have contented them! But such was not the case,
+    and they had gone into wholesale counterfeiting. The fraudulent coin had long been
+    known and diligent efforts were made to find the criminals, efforts at last crowned
+    with success. The guilt was fixed without a doubt, the parties were arrested, tried,
+    and sentenced. Every attempt was made to secure their pardon, in vain. Governor
+    Cahuantzi is an old friend of President Diaz, believed to have great influence with
+    him. Men of wealth, interested in the release and pardon of the criminals, promised
+    Cahuantzi ten thousand dollars in case of his successful intercession with the
+    President in the matter. These details, not generally known, we received from a
+    source respectable and trustworthy, and we believe them true. Anxious to gain the
+    reward, and probably feeling certain of his influence with Diaz, the old man made the
+    journey to Mexico. It was the very time when we called upon him. When we had our
+    interview, he had just seen the President, and it is hinted that, not only did Don
+    Porfirio refuse to pardon the counterfeiters, but showed a dangerous inclination to
+    investigate the reason of the indian governor's intervention. No wonder that the old
+    man was gruff and surly to his visitors, after the loss of ten thousand dollars which
+    he had looked upon as certain, and with uncertainty as to the final outcome of his
+    unlucky business.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image027.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>TLAXCALAN SCHOOLBOYS; SAN NICOLAS
+PANOTLA</b></p>
+<br />
+
+    <hr style="width: 65%;" />
+    <h2><a name="CHAPTER_IX" id="CHAPTER_IX"></a>CHAPTER IX</h2>
+    <a name="page95" id="page95"/>
+    <h2>ZAMORA AND THE ONCE PUEBLOS</h2>
+    <h3>(1898)</h3>
+    <p>The morning train from Guadalajara brought us to Negrete at about two in the
+    afternoon, and we had soon mounted to the top of the clumsy old coach, which was
+    dragged by six horses. The road to Zamora runs through a rich farming district. For
+    the greater part of the distance the road is level and passes amidst great
+    <i>haciendas</i>. The corn crop had been abundant and carts were constantly coming
+    and going from and to the fields. These carts were rectangular, with side walls some
+    four or five feet in height, made of corn-stalks set close together and upright. All
+    were drawn by oxen. Most of the carts had a light cross, made of corn-stalks, set at
+    the front end, to protect the load from adverse influences. Great numbers of men,
+    dressed in leather trousers drawn over their cotton drawers, in single file lined
+    past us, with great baskets full of corn strapped on their backs. Here and there, in
+    the corn-fields, groups of such men were cutting the ripened ears from the
+    plants.</p>
+    <p>We now and then met groups of men bringing great timbers from the mountains fifty
+    or sixty miles away. These timbers were many feet in length and trimmed to a foot
+    square; from four to six made a load. The cart upon which they were carried consisted
+    of a pair of wheels and an axle; one end of the timbers was attached to this, and the
+    other was fastened to the yoke of oxen. It was rare that we met with a single timber
+    cart, as four or five usually <a name="page96"
+    id="page96"/>went together. The drivers who were in charge of them
+    were pure Tarascans.</p>
+    <p>For a considerable distance a fine slope rose to our left, strewn with loose rock
+    masses, and covered with a growth which was chiefly <i>pitahaya</i>, some of the
+    plants attaining the size of grown trees. Many of them presented an appearance which
+    we had not seen elsewhere&mdash;the tips and upper part of the upright branches being
+    as white as if intentionally whitewashed; the simple explanation of this strange
+    appearance was that the branches in question had served as buzzards' roosts. Our
+    journey of twenty-five miles was made with two relays of horses. After perhaps three
+    hours' riding, we reached the Zamora River, which we followed for some distance. From
+    the time when we began to follow this stream, our road was almost a dead level. At
+    many places along the river, we saw a peculiar style of irrigation machine, a great
+    wooden scoop or spoon with long handle swung between supporting poles. The instrument
+    was worked by a single man and scooped up water from the river, throwing it upon the
+    higher land and into canals which carried it through the fields. Sometimes two of
+    these scoops were supported side by side upon a single frame, and were worked in
+    unison by two persons. At the only town of any consequence upon the road, we found
+    numbers of interesting hot springs which might really be called geysers. They were
+    scattered at intervals over the flat mud plain for a distance of a half mile or more.
+    We could see jets of steam of more or less vigor rising from a score or so at a time.
+    At some of these the water really boiled, and we saw it bubbling and tossing to a
+    height of a foot or so above the margin of the spring. Groups of women, laughing and
+    talking or singing snatches of songs, were washing clothes at several of these hot
+    springs, and the garments were spread out over the bushes and trees to dry.<a name="page97" id="page97"/> At one little geyser,
+    bubbling up in the very middle of the road, as we passed we saw a boy pelting the
+    water with stones and mud in order to make it mad and see it spout. The plain was
+    sprinkled here and there with thickets of acacia and mesquite. In the early evening
+    the breeze came loaded with the fragrance of the golden balls of the acacia. There
+    was bright moonlight, and we could see the country, even after sunset. The latter
+    portion of the journey was through low swampy ground, much of the time over
+    causeways.</p>
+    <p>There are few towns in central Mexico, not on a railroad, to be compared with
+    Zamora. It is large, clean, well built, and presents an air of unusual comfort. The
+    main <i>plaza</i> is large, and finely planted with palms, orange-trees, roses and
+    flowering shrubs. The orange-trees were in full bloom and the air was heavy with
+    their odor. The town is electric-lighted and has a good system of waterworks. The
+    great church, with two slender towers, fills up the whole of one side of the
+    <i>plaza</i>, while the other three are occupied with business houses. The amount of
+    life in the town at night surprised us. Even after ten o'clock, many were on the
+    streets, and the <i>dulce</i> stands, <i>cafe</i> tables and <i>loto</i> hall were
+    doing a large business. Few towns in Mexico are so completely under priestly
+    influence, but few again appear as prosperous, progressive, and well-behaved. Two
+    distinct types of houses predominate, the older and the newer. The old style house is
+    such as is characteristic of many other Tarascan towns, but is here more
+    picturesquely developed than in most places. The low-sloped, heavily-tiled roof
+    projects far over the street and is supported below by projecting timbers, which are
+    trimmed at the end to give a pleasing finish. So far do these roofs project over the
+    sidewalk that the water is thrown into the middle of the street and the footpath
+    below is well sheltered. The new style <a name="page98"
+    id="page98"/>of house, which is required by the recent laws, has an
+    almost flat roof which ends squarely at the sidewalk, and from which long tin pipes
+    project to throw the water into the streets. Here, as so frequently, the old fashion
+    is at once more comfortable and more artistic.</p>
+    <p>We spent the morning in efforts to secure horses, but finally secured a man, Don
+    Nabor, who agreed to accompany us with five animals. The party consisted of myself,
+    my interpreter, my plaster-worker, and Don Nabor. Each of us was mounted, and a fifth
+    horse carried the plaster and other luggage. Leaving at noon, we took the long road
+    past Jacona, a little town famous for its fruit. Having passed there, after a long
+    journey, we looked down from the height almost directly upon the place whence we had
+    started. The scene was of unusual beauty&mdash;the wide-spreading, flat valley, with
+    its fields of wheat and clustered trees, presented a mass of rich green coloring, in
+    the midst of which stood the pretty city. After a long climb, we descended into a
+    valley in which lies Tangancicuaro, a large town with a <i>plaza</i> full of fine,
+    great trees, where we ate at a quaint little <i>meson</i>. From here we pushed on to
+    Chilchota, the head town of the Once Pueblos. From the crest, just above the town, we
+    looked down upon a level valley, green with new wheat. Entering the town a little
+    after five, we rode up to the <i>meson</i> of San Francisco, near the little
+    <i>plaza</i>. It was with difficulty that we secured a room containing a single bed,
+    with mattress, and two mats. There was nothing at all to eat at the <i>meson</i>, but
+    on strolling out to the <i>plaza</i> we found some Indian women selling <i>atole</i>
+    and bread. With this we were compelled to be content until morning, paying seven
+    <i>centavos</i> for our four suppers. Hunting up the <i>presidente</i> of the town,
+    we found him sitting, with his court, on benches in the <i>plaza</i>. He was a
+    pleasant, rather dressy young man, but at once took interest in our work, and told us
+    that<a name="page99" id="page99"/> Huancito was
+    the best town for our bust work, as the population there is primitive and purely
+    indian.</p>
+    <p>The Once Pueblos&mdash;eleven towns&mdash;are famous through this portion of the
+    Republic. Several of them are purely indian; Chilchota is largely <i>mestizo</i>. The
+    towns lie in a long line on the side of the little valley, at the foot of the
+    bordering hills. Between some, spaces of considerable extent intervene; others are so
+    close together that, in riding through them, one sees no line of separation. All
+    consist of adobe houses, of a rich brown color, roofed with tiles. Some of the
+    churches are of considerable size, but are also built of brown adobe. The Once
+    Pueblos are famous for their pottery, and in some of them almost every house has its
+    little kiln or oven. Fruit is cultivated, and the houses are frequently embowered in
+    trees; in many yards are bee-hives. The valley is abundantly watered with little
+    streams of perfect clearness.</p>
+    <p>The <i>presidente</i> had insisted that the school teacher at Huancito would prove
+    invaluable. He gave us a letter of introduction to him, and an order upon the
+    authorities. We were at once given possession of the schoolhouse for our work, and I
+    started out to find a subject. Almost the first person encountered was a young man of
+    twenty-three years, who presented the pure Tarascan type. I at once told him that he
+    was the very man we wanted; that we planned to make a picture of him in plaster; at
+    the same time, I described the method of work, and while talking, holding him by the
+    arm, drew him over toward the schoolhouse. Almost before he realized it, we were
+    ready for the task. As he removed his shirt and prepared for the operation of oiling
+    and the application of the plaster, he looked somewhat sombre. After seeing the work
+    well begun, I stepped outside and sat in the portico until it should be done. The
+    first piece of plaster had been applied, the subject had <a
+    name="page100" id="page100"/>been turned, and was lying ready for the
+    second application. At this moment, an indian maiden, with dishevelled hair, came
+    rapidly running across the <i>plaza</i> toward the schoolhouse. Rushing past me, she
+    entered the school-room, and seeing the subject lying on the floor clasped her hands
+    and cried, "Florencito! My Florencito, why wait here? Stay not with these cruel men;
+    flee with me!" Seizing him by the hand, they dislodged the plaster from his shoulders
+    and started for the door, but catching sight of me, cast a glance around, saw the
+    open window, and leaping through it, dashed off home. Up to this time the local
+    authorities had shown an interest in our work and a willingness to aid. Calling the
+    chief of police, I bade him and the teacher seek our subject and bring him back for
+    the completion of the operation. "But, sir," said the chief of police, "suppose he
+    does not wish to come? " "Why are you chief of police?" was my reply. The teacher,
+    who is himself a <i>mestizo</i> and despises the poor indians in his charge, was loud
+    in his complaints. He vigorously declared that what these people needed was a second
+    Cortez, that they had never been properly conquered, and, with the chief of police,
+    he started out for the new conquest. After an hour or more of waiting, we saw them
+    reappear with Florencito. But humanity is ever loath to admit defeat. As he passed
+    us, he grumbled that he saw no good reason for such a fuss, as he had simply gone to
+    eat his breakfast.</p>
+    <p>Having completed the work with this subject, we suggested that others should be
+    brought, but met with a prompt refusal. The judge and the chief of police both
+    declared that the people did not wish to have busts made, and that they would bring
+    no more. In vain I suggested that a meeting of the townspeople should be called
+    together in order that we might address them and explain the purpose of our visit. It
+    was impossible to move the officials. Fin<a name="page101"
+    id="page101"/>ally I told the judge that I should send a mounted
+    messenger, who had accompanied us from the <i>presidente</i>, to Chilchota to report
+    the failure of the town officials to do their duty. He promptly declared that he was
+    going to Chilchota himself to see the <i>presidente</i> in the matter. Sure enough,
+    when my messenger was ready, he had made his preparations, and the two departed
+    together to present the different sides of the question. Neither returned until we
+    were through for the day. During the afternoon we secured two more subjects, and by
+    nightfall had three good busts as the result of the day's labor. Then we faced new
+    difficulties. Carriers could not be had for love nor money. What was wanted were
+    three men, one to carry each bust back to Chilchota, where we planned to spend the
+    night. Finally, after loss of time and temper, each of us shouldered a bust and rode
+    back on horseback with our trophies.</p>
+    <p>We soon discovered that the eleven towns were in a ferment of excitement. Most
+    dreadful tales were rife with regard to us and our work. Some asserted that we cut
+    off heads and hung them up to dry; that in drying, they turned white. Others reported
+    that with knives, made for the purpose, we sliced off the ears of unfortunate
+    indians, close to their heads. Still others reported that we had a frightful
+    instrument which was fitted into the nose, and by means of which we tore strips of
+    flesh and skin from the face of the subject. It was said, and quite likely truly,
+    that they were arming in all the houses; that <i>machetes</i>, guns, pistols, and
+    clubs were laid convenient to hand.</p>
+    <p>The next day was Sunday, and we made no attempt to continue work. It was
+    market-day, and indians from all the pueblos had gathered in the <i>plaza</i> to buy
+    and sell. All were pure in blood and spoke Tarascan. Fruits, sugar-cane, corn,
+    <i>tortillas, atole</i>, coffee, were the chief staples. Stocks of pottery were
+    attractively displayed. Two char<a name="page102"
+    id="page102"/>acteristic wares are both pretty. Most typical,
+    perhaps, is the black and green ware which is made into bowls, plates, mugs, and
+    pitchers. The clay of which it is baked is local and dark brown in color; a white
+    earth applied to this, on baking, gives rise to a rich metallic green glaze. Designs
+    are painted upon this in black. This black and green ware goes far and wide, and
+    everywhere is recognized as coming from the Once Pueblos. At Huancito and some other
+    pueblos, they make little <i>canteras</i> with a red ground and decorative designs in
+    black and white. One thing, offered in the market, was new to us, dishes full of
+    <i>ucuares</i>&mdash;long, irregular, swollen, dry, brown objects that looked like
+    stewed worms with thick and fleshy skins. One <i>centavo</i> bought far more than any
+    person would be likely to eat; even after having been stewed in sugar, they were
+    bitter, and had a foul smell that was most unpleasant; they appeared to be roots or
+    tubers of some plant.</p>
+    <p>Naturally, our work had attracted much attention in Chilchota. No one of the many
+    dozen visitors who came to see us at the <i>meson</i> was so profoundly impressed as
+    a boy of fourteen, named Ignacio. Appearing early in the morning, he remained with us
+    almost all the hours of the twenty-four. Thinking that the effect on the villagers
+    might be good, I decided to ride in the afternoon through the pueblos. When the
+    <i>presidente</i> discovered my intention, he insisted upon supplying a mounted and
+    armed escort, and at the same time gave me a general letter to the eleven towns, in
+    which strict orders were given that my wishes should be respected, and dire threats
+    made in case any one should show me aught but the greatest consideration. Ignacio
+    accompanied me. Riding through the towns, we passed far enough beyond Huancito to see
+    the most remote of the eleven pueblos. They are separated somewhat from the rest, and
+    lie rather higher up in a bend of the valley. Every<a
+    name="page103" id="page103"/>where I took some pains to talk with the
+    people, to visit their houses, to examine their pottery, their bees and their growing
+    crops, as I felt that such an interest would help us in our work. On our return,
+    Ignacio told me that he should stay to dinner with us, as he much preferred to do so
+    to going home. He also told me that it would be a great pity to lose the theatre,
+    which was to take place that evening. Accordingly, after dinner was over, we went to
+    see the play. I expected that at that season of the year it would be a
+    <i>pastorela</i>&mdash;and in fact it had been so announced. It was, however, a true
+    drama, and one of the funniest&mdash;unintentionally&mdash;imaginable. The stage was
+    set in the middle of the <i>patio</i> of a large house. The boy insisted that we
+    would be late, and so we went at 7:15, although the bill announced the hour as 8. The
+    spectators brought their own chairs with them. Except a few youngsters, no one
+    arrived before 9, and the curtain at last rose at a quarter before eleven. Among the
+    last to arrive was the <i>presidente</i> and his party. He was resplendent in a cape
+    of crimson velvet with brilliant yellow facings. Hardly was his party seated, when we
+    were politely invited to sit with them. Three acts were rendered, and while waiting
+    for the fourth, one of the party declared that there would be eleven more. This gave
+    the <i>presidente</i> an opportunity to relate an experience of his own. On one
+    occasion, after watching a play from seven in the evening until four in the morning,
+    the stage broke down; the management appeared and apologized regarding the accident,
+    particularly, since some twenty acts were still to have been rendered. Our play,
+    however, turned out to have had but eight acts, and one of these was omitted. When it
+    should have been given, the whole troupe appeared upon the platform; the manager
+    announced the reason why the act would not be given, but promised that on the
+    following Sunday, in another play, <a name="page104"
+    id="page104"/>an extra act should be inserted, in order that all
+    might receive the full value of their money. Our play ended at one, when the audience
+    dispersed.</p>
+    <p>Needing but two more subjects, we looked about Chilchota the next day, hoping to
+    find indians from the more remote villages, who might permit their busts to be made.
+    Two excellent cases were found. The last was a man from Carapan, the most remote of
+    the eleven towns. He was a man of forty years, whose father accompanied him, and both
+    were for a long time dubious about the operation. Finally, however, consent was given
+    and the bust was made. As he arose and dressed to go, I said, "Did I tell you the
+    truth? Did the operation hurt you, or did it not? Was there a reason why you should
+    not have your bust made?" He promptly answered, "Sir, you told me truth; the
+    operation did not hurt me and there surely is no harm in it; but, sir, you can hardly
+    believe what an excitement this work has caused in our town. Yesterday, in the
+    market-place at Chilchota, there were more than twenty men from Carapan who carried
+    weapons in their clothing. We had selected leaders and arranged signals, and at the
+    first sign of an attack from your party, we were prepared to sell our lives
+    dearly."</p>
+    <p>It was a work of time to fill the moulds and pack the busts. Before we were ready
+    to start upon our journey, it was half-past four in the afternoon. True wisdom would
+    have suggested waiting until morning. Time, however, was precious, and I hoped to
+    make Cheran that night; consequently, though against the advice of many, we started
+    out, with eight leagues to go, over a road with a bad reputation, and at some points
+    difficult to traverse. For a little distance, we followed the familiar trail down
+    through the pueblos, but at Tanaquillo we turned up into the mountain. The ascent was
+    steady until we reached the pass, through <a name="page105"
+    id="page105"/>which an icy wind drove down upon us. We could hope to
+    make the distance in six hours. At first we met many persons, all of whom warned us
+    that we would be late in arriving, and recommended that we should stop at Rancho
+    Seco. We had no intention of so doing, but knew that we must turn at that point into
+    a new road. Between sunset and bright moonlight, there was an interval of darkness,
+    and in that interval we must have passed the turning which led to Rancho Seco. At all
+    events, we presently found ourselves entirely at a loss, wandering over a rocky hill
+    covered with brush, amid which the trail had entirely disappeared. Retracing, as well
+    as we could, our road, we finally found ourselves upon another trail which we
+    followed until 9:30, when we met a little band of indians, the first whom we had seen
+    for a long time. From them we found that we were not upon the road for Cheran, but at
+    the edge of a slope at the bottom of which was a little indian town, Tanaco.
+    Descending to it, we found a house where they agreed to shelter us for the night, and
+    in the <i>tienda</i> near by we bought hard bread and old cheese. We were sheltered
+    in a substantially built room, into which the cold air did not penetrate. The indians
+    with whom we were staying were unusually intelligent; a number of books, including a
+    large dictionary, lay upon the table, and the men, who crowded in upon us, were
+    anxious to learn the English words for common things. This was an experience which
+    rarely happened to us in indian Mexico. The people, however, were not quite sure of
+    our intentions, and Nabor said that when he went to water the horses, a committee of
+    village folk waited upon him, asking whether we were the party of white men who had
+    been skinning live indians over in the Once Pueblos.</p>
+    <p>There were four leagues between us and Cheran, and many more beyond it to
+    Patzcuaro, where we hoped to <a name="page106"
+    id="page106"/>arrive the next night. Accordingly, we made an early
+    start. Our host agreed to pilot us over the indistinct and tortuous bridle-path to
+    the high-road. Many little mountains, almost artificially regular, arose in the
+    otherwise plain country. As we rode along the trail we saw the church of Parracho far
+    behind us in the distance. The latter part of the road, after Cheran was once in
+    sight, seemed hopelessly long, but a little before ten o'clock we pulled up at the
+    <i>meson</i>. We at once made arangements for food for ourselves and the horses, and
+    determined to rest until noon. Our reputation had preceded us. I asked a child at the
+    <i>meson</i> to bring me a mug of water. When he brought it, I noticed that the mug
+    was of the characteristic black and green ware of the Once Pueblos, but asked the boy
+    where it was made. With a cunning look, he answered, "O yes, that comes from where
+    you people have been,&mdash;up at the Once Pueblos." And yet we had not come over the
+    road from the Once Pueblos, but by the main highway from Parracho.</p>
+    <p>Rested and refreshed, we started at 12:30 for the long fourteen leagues of
+    journey. We passed Pichataro, where the round paddles for Patzcuaro canoes are made,
+    and where the applewood, so prized as material for spear-throwers, is procured. We
+    passed Sabina, where the canoes themselves are hollowed out, miles from their
+    launching place, to which they must be carried over mountains. Each town we passed
+    made me more and more uneasy, as I knew that Nabor contemplated revolt. He did not
+    like the idea of too long a journey for his horses. He wished to stop long before the
+    goal that I had fixed. When we left the last of the important towns behind us, I felt
+    for the first time secure. It was now dark, and we found the roads far worse than we
+    remembered them. They were worn into deep gullies, into which our horses fell and
+    over which they <a name="page107" id="page107"/>
+    stumbled. Long before reaching Ajuno I felt convinced that we had missed the road,
+    but we floundered on, and never was sight more welcome than the light of fires
+    shining through the cane walls of the wretched huts of that miserable town. Here
+    there was a final council regarding resting for the night. The whole party, except
+    myself, considered Ajuno as a capital resting-place. All yielded, however, and we
+    continued on our way. It was almost midnight when we rode up to the hotel, upon the
+    <i>plaza</i> in quaint old Patzcuaro. All were cross and tired; neither crossness nor
+    weariness were helped when we were told that there was no room for us at the inn. We
+    made such vigorous representations, however, that the doors were finally thrown open.
+    An old store-house was cleaned out and supplied with decent beds, and a good supper
+    was served.</p>
+    <hr style="width: 65%;" />
+    <h2><a name="CHAPTER_X" id="CHAPTER_X"></a>CHAPTER X</h2>
+    <a name="page108" id="page108"/>
+    <h2>THE BOY WITH THE SMILE</h2>
+    <h3>(1898)</h3>
+    <p>It is doubtful whether the common people of any country are so rarely surprised,
+    or taken unaware, as those of Mexico. At a moment's notice, the commonest indian, who
+    may have scarcely been outside of his own town in all his life, may start to go
+    across the country. Astonishing incidents appear to create no more surprise in their
+    minds than the ordinary affairs of every day. In January, 1898, we revisited Cholula.
+    As we alighted from the street-car we noticed a boy, some fourteen years old, whose
+    most striking characteristic was his smile. He wished to serve as guide, to show us
+    the pyramid, the convents, the chapel of the natives. On assuring him that we knew
+    far more about the lions of his town than he, he was in no wise abashed, but joined
+    himself to us for the remainder of the day. He accompanied us to see the blessing of
+    the animals in the great churchyard. He displayed an interesting knowledge of
+    English, answering "yes" quite perfectly to every sort of question, and repeating the
+    two words, which are well known the whole world over as American-English, on all
+    conceivable occasions. When at evening he saw us safely on the street-car he left us
+    with the same smile with which he had received us. On our next visit to Cholula much
+    the same thing happened, but learning that we planned to stop at Cuauhtlantzinco on
+    our way to Puebla, he stole a ride upon the car, for the sake of accompanying us. He
+    was a rather handy boy, good-natured and anxious to please, so that, <a name="page109" id="page109"/>later in our journey,
+    we hired him for several days and let him do what he could to help us.</p>
+    <p>Much later, when at home planning the details of our next extensive journey, the
+    thought struck us that it might be well to make the boy with the smile a member of
+    our party. It seemed as if, in going into districts rarely visited by strangers, it
+    would be well to have the party as largely Mexican as possible. If, however, the boy
+    were to accompany us, it was necessary that he should first learn something of our
+    work and needs, and perhaps of English. Accordingly, I decided to go to Cholula and
+    bring the boy up to the States.</p>
+    <p>The resolution was so hastily taken that there was no time to send word to the boy
+    himself. Going straight to Cholula, I had some difficulty in finding his abode. I
+    knew that the boy had no father, that his widowed mother had but one other child, a
+    girl younger than the boy himself. I had once seen the mother and the little sister;
+    I also knew the street on which they lived. Arriving at the street, however, no one
+    apparently had ever heard of the boy. One and another through the whole length of the
+    street was questioned, but none knew his name or recognized his description.
+    Excepting that I knew that trait of Mexican character which assists acquaintances to
+    seclusion, when they are sought by strangers, I should have despaired. As it was, I
+    kept on asking, and finally, from a child who could hardly speak on account of youth,
+    I discovered the house which I sought. It was a little hut set back behind a yard of
+    growing corn. I had inquired at the houses on either side and at the house across the
+    road, as also of a man working in the corn in the yard itself. But everyone had been
+    profoundly ignorant of the boy's existence. Walking up to the house, I found the door
+    open, and the mother and the little girl within. The moment <a
+    name="page110" id="page110"/>the woman saw me, she said, "<i>Que
+    milagro, Se&ntilde;or</i>!" (What a miracle, sir!) and rising, gave me a warm
+    embrace. The little girl did the same. "And where is Manuel?" I inquired. "Ah, sir,
+    he has gone to Puebla on an errand for a gentleman; but he will be back on the
+    street-car at half-past ten. Pray wait, sir, till he comes."</p>
+    <p>The house consisted, like most of its class, of a single room. The walls were
+    built of sun-dried bricks of adobe. Entrance was by a single door. There were no
+    windows. The floor was clay. The flat roof was scarcely six feet above the floor. The
+    furniture, though ample, was scanty. A little earthen brazier for heating and
+    cooking, a stone <i>metate</i>, a rubbing-stone for grinding corn-meal, a table
+    heaped with bundles and boxes containing the family clothing, and a chair were all.
+    There were no beds, not even the mats which so frequently, among the poor of Mexico,
+    take their place. Several pictures of saints and of the virgin were pinned against
+    the wall, and there were signs of tapers which had been burned before them. A bird or
+    two in wooden cages, a rooster and a little dog lived in the house with the
+    family.</p>
+    <p>After answering various questions from the good woman and the little girl, I
+    finally stated that I proposed to take Manuel with me to my country. He would stay
+    with me there for six months, after which he would come back and accompany me for
+    three months longer on a journey into southern Mexico. "If I have your consent," I
+    said, "we leave to-day." Immediately the woman answered, "Sir, it is for you to say."
+    Just then, however, the little girl, Dolores, began to cry. "Tut, tut, Dolores," said
+    I, "I am sure you want Manuel to go away and visit a strange country and have a fine
+    time; and think of the pictures that he can bring you to show what he has seen. And
+    more than that, it is already half-past ten, and you shall go down to<a name="page111" id="page111"/> the street-car to
+    meet him, and tell him that he must come straight home, for fear that he will loiter
+    on the way; but do not tell him I am here, nor say anything about his going away, for
+    we wish to surprise him." Drying her eyes, and smiling almost as the boy himself,
+    Dolores started to run to the street-car line, and presently fetched Manuel home in
+    triumph. As he entered and saw me, he said, "<i>Que milagro, Se&ntilde;or</i>" and
+    kissed my hand. Having asked, as Mexican politeness requires, a variety of questions
+    about his welfare, I finally said, "Well, Manuel, how would you like to go to Puebla
+    with me for the day?" "Sir, it is for you to say." "Very good," said I. "And if I
+    should conclude that it was best to take you to Mexico for a few days, what would you
+    say to that?" "I am entirely in your hands, sir," he replied, "to do your orders."
+    "Well," said I, "suppose I took you to my own country and kept you there for six
+    months?" and the boy replied, "Sir, you are my owner; it is for you to command."
+    "Very well," said I, "get ready, and we will go on the street-car, at twelve o'clock,
+    to Puebla."</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image028a.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>THE CROSS; SAN NICOLAS PANOTLA</b></p>
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image028b.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>THE BOY WITH THE SMILE</b></p>
+<br />
+
+    <p>Telling his mother that she should put together the few articles of which there
+    might be need, we started for the noonday car. As we left, I suggested that she and
+    the little girl come to the city, during the afternoon or evening, to bid the boy
+    good-bye, as we should leave on an early train the following morning. They came at
+    nightfall. She had his small possessions tied up in a carrying cloth, and her mind
+    was stored with bits of excellent advice and admonition as to his conduct and
+    behaviour in his new surroundings. After Dolores and her brother had given each other
+    a, farewell embrace, the mother said a few words to the boy, who knelt upon the floor
+    of the room and crossed his hands upon his breast. The mother then gave him her
+    parting blessing, and sent him forth into the outside world.</p>
+    <hr style="width: 65%;" />
+    <h2><a name="CHAPTER_XI" id="CHAPTER_XI"></a>CHAPTER XI</h2>
+    <a name="page112" id="page112"/>
+    <h2>IN THE MIXTECA ALTA</h2>
+    <h3>(1898)</h3>
+    <p>Of all railroad cities in the Republic, Oaxaca is the most completely indian. It
+    is the capital of a state the population of which is nine-tenths of native blood.
+    Fifteen native languages are spoken in the state to-day. While some of these are
+    related to each other, they are distinct languages, not dialects, even those which
+    are related being as unlike as the French, Italian, and Spanish. The indians commonly
+    seen on the city streets are Zapotecs or Mixtecs, but at times Mixes come from their
+    distant mountain homes with burdens on their backs, or parties of Tehuantepecanas
+    attract attention, by their fine forms and striking dress, as they walk through the
+    streets. The market is crowded, even late in the day; ox-carts from the indian towns
+    for miles around are constantly seen in the streets. Most of the sellers in the
+    market are indians; they bring fruits and vegetables, dried fish from the Pacific,
+    <i>j&iacute;caras</i> and strainers of gourds, beautifully painted and polished
+    gourds from Ocotopec, honey, sugar&mdash;both the crude brown and the refined yellow
+    cakes&mdash;and pottery. The indian pottery here sold is famous. Three kinds of wares
+    are well known&mdash;a dull plain red, an unglazed but highly polished black, and a
+    brilliant glazed green. The black ware is made into useful vessels, and also into a
+    variety of toys, chiefly whistles and bells. Pottery would seem to be one of the
+    least suitable materials for bells. Here, however, bells of pottery in many shapes
+    are found&mdash;little bells, <a name="page113"
+    id="page113"/>with handles like the upper part of a human figure;
+    larger bells, with curious flat handles set transversely; others, still larger, like
+    cow-bells in size and tone, and curious cross-shaped bells, really a group of four
+    united. Among the whistles some are made into the shape of animals and birds and
+    curious human figures; among the latter, some closely resemble ancient whistles from
+    the prehistoric graves. This black ware is made at Coyotepec, and when the objects
+    are first taken from the kiln they are almost white; before they are cold, they are
+    exposed to dense smoke, and thus assume their black color. The brilliantly glazed
+    green ware is the most attractive. Vessels made from it are thin, and, in the parts
+    which are unglazed, resemble common flower-pot ware. The larger portion of their
+    surfaces, however, is covered with a rich, thick, emerald-green glaze. Cups, bowls,
+    saucers, plates, sugar-bowls, tea-pots, flasks, and censers are among the forms
+    commonly made in this ware. The shapes are often graceful and the prices low. Most
+    beautiful, however, and relatively expensive, are the miniature vessels made in this
+    ware&mdash;scarcely an inch in height, but formed with the greatest care, and in such
+    variety of dainty forms that one may seek some time to duplicate a piece which he has
+    found; these little pieces are completely covered with the rich green glaze both
+    outside and inside.</p>
+    <p>Our plan of journey for the year was first to make an expedition from Oaxaca to
+    the north-west, into the Mixteca Alta; returning to Oaxaca, to strike eastward by way
+    of Mitla, and the land of the Mixes, to Tehuantepec, from which place we should make
+    a brief trip to the Juaves; returning to Tehuantepec, we should take the high road,
+    by way of San Carlos, back to Oaxaca. Our first duty in the city of Oaxaca was to
+    procure letters and orders from the governor. No governor in Mexico more completely
+    real<a name="page114" id="page114"/>izes his
+    importance and dignity than Governor Gonzales of Oaxaca. It is ever difficult to
+    secure an audience with him; appointment after appointment is made, only to be broken
+    when the inquiring visitor presents himself, and has been kept waiting an undue
+    length of time. We had been through the experience before, and therefore were not
+    surprised that it required four visits, each of them appointed by the governor
+    himself, before we really had our interview. Governor Gonzales, is, however, an
+    excellent officer. While we were waiting for our letters, after having explained to
+    him our errand and plan of procedure, we had the opportunity to see a somewhat
+    unusual and interesting sight. Like all public buildings and better-grade houses in
+    Mexican cities, the governor's palace is built about <i>patios</i>, or inner courts.
+    A wide balcony surrounds the court at the level of the second story and upon it the
+    rooms of that story open. Having given orders that our letters should be prepared,
+    the governor excused himself for a few moments, as he said that certain of his local
+    authorities were ordered to meet him. We were seated where we could watch the
+    reception. As we had entered the palace we had been impressed by the great number of
+    indians, carrying official staves, who were waiting near the door. We now found that
+    they were official delegates from the different towns, and that they had been sent
+    from their homes to give the governor New Year's greetings. Having carefully arrayed
+    himself for the meeting, the governor took his position in the wide balcony already
+    referred to, with two officials of the palace stationed near, one on either side. The
+    Indians represented perhaps twenty-five different towns, the delegation from each
+    town varying from three or four to fifteen or twenty persons. All were dressed in
+    their cleanest garments, and all carried their long staves of office, most of which
+    had ribbons of bright colors streaming from them.<a
+    name="page115" id="page115"/> The secretary of the governor arranged
+    these delegations in their order, and they were presented one by one to the chief
+    executive. As each delegation was presented, its members scraped and bowed, and the
+    <i>presidente</i> and <i>secretario</i> kissed the governor's hand. A word or two of
+    greeting having been exchanged, the spokesman from the village made a speech,
+    sometimes read from a written copy, after which he presented a bouquet of flowers,
+    real or artificial. The governor received the bouquet with a bow, placed the flowers
+    on a little table near by, or, if the gift were a large bouquet of real flowers,
+    handed it to one of the attendants standing near, and then made a polite speech of
+    response, emphasizing it with vigorous gestures and plainly expressive of much
+    interest and earnestness. The delegation then took its leave, always bowing
+    reverently, and each man kissing the governor's hand as he passed out. As he received
+    this mark of respect, the governor would make a playful remark, or pat the persons on
+    the head, or otherwise treat them as a father might his little children. Instantly
+    the flowers were cleared away, the next delegation ushered in, and the same ceremony
+    gone through with. Finally, all was ready for our leaving. The party consisted of
+    five persons&mdash;myself, as leader, Mr. Lang, my American photographer, Don
+    Anselmo, my Mexican plaster-worker, Manuel, and the <i>mozo</i>. All but the
+    <i>mozo</i> were mounted on horses, more or less good or bad. The <i>mozo</i>,
+    Mariano, a Mixtec indian, went on foot, carrying the photographic outfit on his back,
+    and our measuring-rod in his hand. It was well on in the afternoon before we started,
+    and hardly were we outside the town, before Mr. Lang's horse showed signs of
+    sickness. His suffering was plain, and every person we met volunteered the
+    information that unless something was done promptly, we should have a dead horse on
+    our hands. Going to a little shop on the roadside, <a
+    name="page116" id="page116"/>where strong drinks were sold, we
+    stopped, and after preparing a remedy with the help of a passing Indian, threw the
+    horse down, wedged his mouth open, and gave him what seemed to be an unsavory
+    draught. More than an hour was lost out of our already short afternoon by this
+    veterinary practice, and long before we reached Etla, where we were compelled to pass
+    the night, it was dark.</p>
+    <p>Leaving Etla in the morning, looking down as we passed out from the city upon a
+    wonderful group of mounds, we passed rather slowly through the town of Huitzo. Don
+    Anselmo and I loitered, as we found the whole country to be rich in ancient relics,
+    examples of which were to be found in almost every house. As the afternoon passed, we
+    found that we were likely to be completely left by our companions, and were forced to
+    hasten on. The latter part of the daylight ride was up a continuous, and at times
+    steep, ascent. As the sun neared setting, we reached the summit and found ourselves
+    close by the station of Las Sedas, the highest point upon the Mexican Southern
+    Railway. We had there expected to overtake the others of our party, but found that
+    they had hurried on. It was a serious question whether we should try to overtake
+    them. It had been wisdom to have stayed the night where we were. In this uncertainty,
+    we met an indian boy driving mules toward Oaxaca, who volunteered the information
+    that he had met our companions, who were just ahead, and that we would soon overtake
+    them. This decided us, and we started down the trail. A heavy wind was blowing, and
+    the night air was cold and penetrating. In a few minutes we met a half-breed Mexican,
+    who, accosting us at once, urged us to go no further. His manner was somewhat
+    sinister and disagreeable. He warned us that, if we attempted to make the descent in
+    the darkness, we would at least lame our animals. He asserted that our comrades were
+    fully three <a name="page117" id="page117"/>
+    leagues ahead when he had met them, and that we would never overtake them. He also
+    hinted darkly as to other dangers of the road, if we should succeed in making the
+    descent without breaking the legs of our horses. Refusing his invitation to stop with
+    him for the night, we pressed onward, and as we did so, he called out derisively
+    after us.</p>
+    <p>The descent would not have been an easy one, even in the daytime, and in the
+    gathering darkness there was really an element of danger in the journey. We left the
+    following of the trail almost entirely to our animals. We were finally down the worst
+    of the descent before night had actually set in. From here on, although the road
+    varied but little from a level trail, we were obliged to go slowly, and it was with a
+    feeling of true relief that, after floundering for a while in a brook in which our
+    road seemed to lose itself, we heard ourselves called by name, from an indian hut
+    situated a little way up the bank. As usual, the house consisted of a single room, of
+    no great size, and was lightly built of cane. Two men, three women, a boy, and three
+    little girls were the occupants. Our companions were already resting; their horses
+    were unsaddled and were eating contentedly, and we were told that supper was being
+    prepared for us. Entering the house, we found the women busy making <i>tortillas</i>,
+    and fresh goat's meat, hanging from the rafters, gave promise of a substantial meal.
+    When all was ready, we sat down to the finest of corn-cakes, beans, eggs, and tender
+    kidmeat. We spread our blankets under a little shelter which stood in front of one
+    side of the house. None of us slept well. It was very cold; dogs barked all night
+    long; now and then a sudden outbreak of their barking, and curious signals and
+    whistles, which were repeated in various parts of the mountain, gave us some
+    uneasiness. At three o'clock in the morning, just as we were napping, Don Anselmo
+    startled us by the statement that our mule <a name="page118"
+    id="page118"/>was dead. In a moment, all was excitement. Mariano
+    examined the animal and reiterated the statement. As for us, we were in the mood to
+    care but little whether the mule was living or dead. Half frozen and very weary, our
+    frame of mind was not a cheerful one. Just before daybreak we could stand the cold no
+    longer, and gathering some dry wood, we started a fire and crowded around it. The
+    report about the mule proved to be false, and when morning came, there was no sign
+    that anything was the matter with him.</p>
+    <p>It was nine o'clock before we started on our journey in the morning. We had three
+    long hours of clambering up and down heavy slopes, and, much of the way, through a
+    stream the bed of which was filled with slippery boulders and pebbles, over which the
+    horses slipped and stumbled frightfully. Our horses slid down small cascades, but,
+    when we came to larger ones, we had to mount the banks by ugly bits of road,
+    descending below the falls. After much labor and weariness, we reached El Parian at
+    noon. Having rested through the hotter portion of the day, we took the road again at
+    two. We followed up the brook-bed to the point where another stream entered it, at an
+    acute angle. Up this stream we turned, and after following it a little, struck
+    suddenly up a steep hill, and then climbed on and on over a good road, cut in the
+    limestone rock, up and up, until we reached the very summit. The vegetation here was
+    a curious assemblage,&mdash;palms, cedars, oaks, and a mimosa-like tree, formed the
+    chief types. The limestone rock upon the summit was curiously eroded, as if by rain
+    rills. The masses presented all the appearance and detail of erosion shown by the
+    great mountain mass of the country itself; looking at one of these little models,
+    only a few feet across, and then gazing out upon the great tangle of mountain peaks
+    around us, one could almost imagine <a name="page119"
+    id="page119"/>that the one was the intentional reproduction of the
+    other, in miniature. For a long time we followed the almost level summit; then a
+    little climb and a slight descent brought us to Huaclilla. At the <i>meson</i> we
+    found real rooms and true beds, and decided to stay for the night. The supper was
+    less attractive. A brief walk about the village brought to light two cases of
+    small-pox, and, on returning to the <i>meson</i>, we were charmed to find a third one
+    in the building itself. Still, we slept well, and were up betimes next morning. The
+    country through which we were passing was Mariano's <i>pa&iacute;s</i> (native land).
+    Assuming that his knowledge was adequate, we left our <i>meson</i> early, with the
+    intention of breakfasting at San Pedrito, where we were assured that everything was
+    lovely; we were also told that it was but a short distance. The road thither was
+    through a high open country, planted to wheat and oats and with some
+    <i>magu&eacute;y</i>. The road was discouragingly long, but after at least three
+    hours of constant riding, we reached precious San Pedrito, chiefly notable for the
+    amount of <i>pulque</i> drunk there. It was with the greatest difficulty that we
+    succeeded in getting anything to eat; the breakfast was certainly worse than the
+    supper of the preceding night. With the prevalence of <i>magu&eacute;y</i> as a
+    cultivated plant, the appearance of the houses and other buildings changed, as all of
+    them were thatched with the broad, long, sharp-pointed leaves of the famous plant.
+    Everyone in the district carries <i>tinajas</i>, or little sacks woven from splints
+    of palm. Here, for the first time, we noticed that many of these had decorated
+    patterns worked in black splints on the lighter ground. The blackness of these
+    splints is given by exposure to the smoke of burning pine. Carrying-straps, also made
+    of palm, are used for adjusting these <i>tinajas</i> to the back.</p>
+    <p>From San Pedrito the road is over a soft rock, which produces, when worn, a white
+    glaring trail. The country <a name="page120"
+    id="page120"/>through which we passed was fertile. Everywhere were
+    fields of grain, wheat, oats, and, as we were descending into the lower land, corn.
+    The little watch-houses for guarding the newly-sown fields are a striking feature of
+    the landscape. In the higher districts they were small, conical or dome-shaped
+    structures, made of the leaves of the <i>magu&eacute;y</i>, and hardly large enough
+    for a man to lie down in. Lower down, these were replaced by little rectangular huts,
+    only a few feet across, with thatched roofs, the whole construction being raised on
+    poles ten or twelve feet above the ground. It was scarcely more than noonday when we
+    reached Nochixtlan, where the <i>jefe</i> of the district lives. Telling him that we
+    desired to visit Yodocono and Tilantongo, he wrote orders for us, and charged some
+    indians of Tidaa to show us the road, so far as they were going. The country through
+    which we passed was a continuation of that preceding Nochixtlan. The road was nearly
+    level, with but slight ups and downs, until a little before we reached our
+    destination, when we had an abrupt up-turn to Yodocono, a pretty town on the border
+    of a little lake, which has but recently appeared, and which covers an area which a
+    few years ago was occupied by cultivated fields. Our letter from the <i>jefe</i>
+    introduced us to Don Macario Espinola, a <i>mestizo</i>, owner of the chief store in
+    the village, who showed us gracious hospitality. We were guests of honor. The parlor
+    was surrendered to our use; the chairs were placed in such a way that, when supplied
+    with mattress, sheets, and blankets, they made capital beds. Our meals were good. Don
+    Macario, on hearing the purpose of our visit, placed himself entirely at our
+    disposition. Unfortunately, he gained the idea that the people whom we wanted for
+    measurement and photography were old folk, and the most astonishing collection of
+    aged men and women was summoned from every part of the village and surrounding<a name="page121" id="page121"/> neighborhood, and all
+    had to be measured, although the measurements were afterwards discarded.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image029.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>YODOCONO</b></p>
+<br />
+
+    <p>Leaving Yodocono at ten the following morning, we rode to Tilantongo. Though
+    assured that the road was over a district as level as a floor, we found a good deal
+    of up-hill riding. Tilantongo itself, with 2,266 inhabitants, is located upon the
+    further slope of a hill, and but few houses were in sight until we were actually in
+    the town. The public buildings surrounded a small open space, in the centre of which
+    is a stone sun-dial. One side of this little <i>plaza</i> is occupied by the
+    schoolhouse; the town-house and jail occupy the rear. The town is built upon a
+    horseshoe-shaped, sloping ridge, and the church is at the edge of the town, at one of
+    the very ends of the horseshoe. Riding to the town-house, we presented our documents
+    to the <i>presidente</i>, and ordered dinner for ourselves and food for the horses.
+    We had letters to the priest, but he was not in town. The schoolhouse was placed at
+    our disposal, and we moved two long benches close to each other, side by side; rush
+    mats were brought, and these we laid upon the benches, and upon the teacher's table,
+    for beds. Mr. Lang and Don Anselmo took the table, Manuel and I the benches, and
+    Mariano had the floor. The cold was so intense that none of us slept much. We were
+    astonished, in the middle of the night, and at intervals in the early morning, say at
+    two or four o'clock, to hear snatches of songs. At first, we imagined it might be
+    some religious festival, but on inquiring, we found that it was nothing but bands of
+    drunken indians making night hideous.</p>
+    <p>We waited some time in the morning before beginning work, hoping that the
+    <i>cura</i> might come and assist us with his influence. Finally, wearying of delay,
+    we explained to the <i>presidente</i> the work we planned to do. We told him we must
+    have subjects for measurement, photographing <a name="page122"
+    id="page122"/>and modeling. He showed no great enthusiasm in the
+    matter. One and another came to be measured, if they chose, but a number entirely
+    refused. It was plain that something must be done. Quitting my work, I sent orders
+    for the <i>presidente</i> to appear, and, after an intolerable delay, he presented
+    himself. I told him that we were losing time; that subjects were not presenting
+    themselves; that some of those who did present themselves refused to be measured;
+    that I wished a <i>mozo</i> at once to carry a report from me to the <i>jefe</i> that
+    my wishes were not regarded by the authorities, and that his orders had no influence;
+    that the <i>mozo</i> must be ready at once, as there was no time to lose, and we
+    should shortly leave his town without accomplishing our work. The effect was
+    instantaneous. The official air of arrogance disappeared; he replied quiet humbly
+    that subjects should be at once supplied, as rapidly as they could be brought in. I
+    replied, "Here are two persons now who have refused; why wait while others shall be
+    brought?" The fiat went forth, the two obdurate and not good-humored victims were
+    marched up. As I measured them, they whispered to me that the <i>presidente</i>
+    himself had not been measured, and begged that he be ordered to undergo the
+    operation. The request was reasonable, and when they were through, they waited to see
+    what would happen. Great was their delight when, turning to the chief man of the
+    town, I said, "It is best for you to be measured next. It will set a good example to
+    the rest," and without a word, although I knew that he had stated that he would not
+    be measured, he stepped under the rod. From then on there was no lack of material.
+    Our subjects were measured, photographed and modeled as rapidly as we could do the
+    work. At noon the priest had come. As he passed where we were working, he gave us an
+    extremely distant greeting and rode on up to the <i>curato</i>. From his<a name="page123" id="page123"/> castle he sent
+    immediate complaint because our horses had been put into his stable without his
+    permission. I went to the good man's house and found him hearing confessions. Leaving
+    with him the letters from the archbishop and the <i>jefe</i>, I returned to my work,
+    leaving word that the horses would have to stay where they were, as there was no
+    other suitable place for their keeping. After a hard day's work, the night started
+    very cold, and we hurried to bed early. All were sleeping, but myself, when a rap
+    came at the door. It was a message from the <i>cura</i>, begging us to come to the
+    <i>curato</i>, where we would be more comfortable. Sending back a word of thanks, I
+    stated that we would be there for the following night.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image030.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>MIXTEC HOUSES; TILANTONGO</b></p>
+<br />
+
+    <p>The <i>cura</i> had been away from home for several days. The result was that, on
+    his return, his parishioners turned out in force to greet him, and hardly was he
+    housed, when a procession bearing gifts marched to the <i>curato</i>. In front went
+    one bearing flowers. Those who followed carried some kind of food,&mdash;great pieces
+    of meat, fowls, eggs, corn, chilis, and other supplies. The following morning we were
+    awakened by a great explosion of fire-crackers and rockets, and by pealing bells,
+    announcing the early mass. After his religious duties were performed, the
+    <i>padre</i> came down to the <i>plaza</i> to watch our work and use his influence in
+    our behalf. When it was dinner-time, he invited us to go with him to that meal. We
+    had thought that the donation party we had witnessed was a generous one; after that
+    dinner, we had no doubt of the matter. Hardly had we disposed of the many good things
+    on the table when the <i>padre</i> took us to a large room, the parish schoolhouse,
+    and showed us the arrangements he had made for our comfort. Four beds, descending in
+    grade of comfort from the one for myself to the one for Manuel, were shown us. Never
+    was a party happier to move from one set of quarters to another.<a name="page124" id="page124"/></p>
+    <p>Called away the next morning by his religious duties, the priest left us in charge
+    of house and household. The work went merrily on in the <i>plaza</i>. We quickly
+    found, however, that the town was getting into a condition of intoxication, and long
+    before noon every person in the place was drunk. At noon we were waited upon by a
+    committee, representing the town, who informed us that they appreciated the lofty
+    honor which was conferred on the place by our presence, and stated that, realizing
+    that we had brought with us letters from the President of the Republic and from the
+    Archbishop of the diocese, they desired not to be lacking in the respect due to such
+    distinguished visitors. Accordingly, they said, they had arranged for the brass band
+    to discourse sweet music for us, while we ate our dinner. No sooner was the statement
+    made, than preparations were begun. The band stood around us in a semi-circle,
+    chiefly notable for its unsteadiness on its legs, and regaled us with a series of
+    most doleful pieces. When word came that dinner was ready at the <i>curato</i>, the
+    band accompanied us to our stopping-place. The bandmaster announced his intention of
+    personally serving us at the table. At the same time orders were given that the
+    musicians, standing without, should continue to play pieces throughout the
+    repast.</p>
+    <p>The last day of our stay at Tilantongo, the <i>padre</i> stated that it must be
+    interesting to see the way in which a parish priest, returning from a visit to a
+    neighboring town, is received by his parish. Accordingly, he planned that a picture
+    should be taken of himself on horseback, with all the people gathered around
+    welcoming him. Telling us that he would be ready when we should have made our own
+    preparations for this photographic effort, he waited for our summons. We quickly
+    found, however, that the proposition, although hailed at first with joy, did not
+    create great enthusiasm. We recommended to the people that they <a name="page125" id="page125"/> should get ready;
+    told the musicians that the band should be prepared, and that soon we should send for
+    the <i>padre</i> to be welcomed. When we finally succeeded in getting the matter
+    under way, and were seriously thinking of summoning the reverend gentleman, it was
+    reported that an old woman had been found dead in her lonely hut that morning, and
+    arrangements were at once started for her funeral. In vain we suggested that they
+    should wait until the picture had been made. Musicians and parishioners alike
+    disappeared, going down to the house where the dead body lay. The afternoon was
+    passing. It would soon be quite too dark for a picture. Meantime, the <i>cura</i>,
+    having become anxious in the matter, hastened from his house on foot, to ask why he
+    had not been sent for. On our explaining that a funeral was in progress, he was
+    greatly outraged. We pointed out the house in front of which the funeral procession
+    was now forming. He stood watching, as the line of mourners approached. The person
+    who had died was an aged woman named Hilaria. The body was borne upon a stretcher, as
+    coffins are not much used among these people. The procession came winding up the
+    high-road, where we stood. The band in front was playing mournfully; next came the
+    bearers, two of whom, at least, were sadly drunk. The corpse was clad in the daily
+    garments of the woman, and the body sagged down through gaps in the stretcher; a
+    motley crowd of mourners, chiefly women, some with babies in their arms, followed.
+    One man, walking with the band in front, carried a book in his hand and seemed to
+    read the service, as they slowly passed along. When the procession had come near us
+    and was about to pass, the <i>padre</i> stopped it; expressing his dissatisfaction at
+    the failure to arrange for the photograph which he had ordered, he told the bearers
+    to take the corpse out behind the house and leave it there.<a
+    name="page126" id="page126"/> They did so, returned, and were arranged
+    in a group with the <i>padre</i> in their midst, and photographed, after which the
+    body was picked up again, the procession was reformed, and proceeded as if nothing
+    had happened.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image031a.jpg" /></p>
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image031b.jpg" /></p>
+<br />
+
+
+
+    <p>The following morning at six o'clock we were again upon the road. We first
+    descended into the valley, passing the miserable hut from whence the dead woman had
+    been borne. In all the yards we noticed peach-trees loaded with their pink blossoms.
+    From the deep and narrow valley, we began to climb steadily upward. We passed along
+    the side of a gorge, the bed of which had all the appearance of a giant stairway.
+    Higher and higher we mounted, leaving San Juan Diusi on our right. Great masses of
+    gray clouds hung upon the summits of the highest mountain, their lower line coming
+    very nearly to our level. The wind beginning to blow, the gray mass soon was whirled
+    and spread down like a great veil around us. We were indeed glad when we began to
+    descend and have a little shelter behind us, against the wind, and dry skies instead
+    of damp clouds above us. Making a sudden descent, we found ourselves in a cleared
+    district, where the only trees left on the high summits were palms, which bore little
+    round dates with round seeds; these were quite sweet and good. Small ranches were
+    scattered, here and there, along the road. After another descent and ascent, we found
+    ourselves in an extensive forest of great gnarled oaks, thickly covered with tufts of
+    air-plants and with orchids. Many of the latter were in full bloom, forming masses of
+    brilliant color. In making the descent from here, we found the slope composed of
+    slippery limestone, with sharp, rain-channeled surfaces, where our horses with great
+    difficulty kept their footing. Soon after we were down, we reached San Bartolo.</p>
+    <p>This purely Mixtec town was a delightful spot. It is large, and strung along two
+    or three long straight streets.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image032.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>THE PEOPLE RECEIVING THEIR PADRE;
+TILANTONGO</b></p>
+
+
+
+    <a name="page127" id="page127"/> <br />
+
+
+    <p>The houses were in yards completely filled with fruit trees&mdash;<i>chirimoyas,
+    limas, granadas de China, ahuacates</i> and oranges. Garden-beds of spinach, lettuce,
+    and onions were frequent. The houses were of poles set upright, with thick thatchings
+    of palms. Bee-hives in quantity were seen at almost every house. At Tilantongo we had
+    seen but few women in native dress. Here almost every woman was clad in native
+    garments, many of which were beautifully decorated. The men wore brilliant sashes,
+    woven in the town. When we reached the town-house we found the doorway decorated with
+    flowers,&mdash;stars and rosettes made of palm. We were well received, and a capital
+    dinner was soon served, after which we were escorted around the town by the
+    authorities, who arranged for photographing everything that seemed to us of interest.
+    But, at three o'clock, we left this pretty spot. Again, we climbed much of the way
+    over limestone roads. Santo Domingo, past which we journeyed, is a mean little town,
+    with houses much like those of Tilantongo, but of a gray color instead of
+    reddish-brown. From here we plunged downward, and when we ascended again, followed
+    along the side of a rock-walled ca&ntilde;on with pretty cascades and magnificent
+    masses of fallen rock. The last part of our journey was made by moonlight, along a
+    brook-side over a road which seemed quite endless. With some trouble, we found the
+    dilapidated old church and the municipal house; we took possession of the school, and
+    after a miserable supper, thoroughly tired, lay down to rest upon the benches.</p>
+    <p>The town&mdash;Magdalena de los Comales&mdash;is so named from the <i>comales</i>,
+    or earthenware griddles, made there. Besides this characteristic product, the town
+    makes a good deal of unglazed but polished red pottery. The forms are chiefly
+    candle-sticks, censers and toys. Much weaving of palm is here done, and the hats of
+    the place are rather <a name="page128"
+    id="page128"/>famous. Famous, too, are the <i>mantas</i>, or women's
+    dresses, of black wool, made in long rectangular pieces. The common grade sells for
+    $6.00, and in using it, it is, like indian dresses generally, simply wrapped about
+    the figure and held in place by a sash or belt.</p>
+    <p>Nowhere in our journey in southern Mexico had we met with the kind of scenery
+    which we encountered between Magdalena and Tlaxiaco; its whole character was like
+    that of New Mexico. Directly behind the town was a fine cart-road, worn in red sand
+    pumice; before the town rose a magnificent cliff, which had been a landmark in our
+    journey of the day before. The road running up the mountain, over gray and red pumice
+    strata, was deeply worn, just like the road back of Cochiti, New Mexico. Here, too,
+    were the same noble pines for forest. It was a full hour's climb to the summit, where
+    we found a pretty brook tumbling over ledge after ledge into deep round basins of
+    purest water. A long and rather gentle slope downward led to a valley filled with
+    neat farm-houses and cleared patches. Our last ascent brought us to a mass of rounded
+    hills, composed of brilliant clays&mdash;yellow, brown, pink, red and white. From
+    among these hillocks Tlaxiaco, a magnificent picture, burst into view. It is
+    compactly built; the flat-topped houses are white or blue-tinted; trees are sprinkled
+    through the town; the old convent, with the two towers of its church, dominates the
+    whole place; a pretty stream flows along its border; and a magnificent range of
+    encircling mountains hems it in on all sides. The descent was rapid, and we reached
+    Tlaxiaco with the morning but half gone.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image033.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>MIXTEC HOUSES WITH BEEHIVES; SAN
+BARTOLO</b></p>
+<br />
+
+
+    <p>The <i>jefes</i> of the districts of Mexico are frequently men of ability and
+    force. Rarely, however, have we encountered one so prompt and energetic as Javier
+    Cordova, then <i>jefe</i> of the district of Tlaxiaco. When he took possession
+    of<a name="page129" id="page129"/> this
+    district, not long before, deeds of robbery along the high-road were common. In many
+    portions of the district, acts of violence were quite the rule. Perhaps the largest
+    agricultural district in the Republic, it possessed few of the conveniences of modern
+    life. Under Cordova's administration, vast improvements have been made. The roads are
+    secure, deeds of violence are rare, the advantages of the district are being rapidly
+    developed, telephone and telegraph have been introduced, and a railroad is talked of.
+    Although we had no letter from the governor addressed to Se&ntilde;or Cordova, when
+    we showed him the communications for other <i>jefes</i>, we were received with the
+    greatest courtesy and everything was done to facilitate our work. We told him that we
+    planned to visit the Triquis at Chicahuastla. He at once wrote letters to the town
+    authorities and to Don Guillermo Murcio, living at that village. The plaster for our
+    bust-making had not yet been received, but Se&ntilde;or Cordova promised, in case it
+    came, to forward it after us promptly, and, in case it did not come, to send twenty
+    miles into the mountains for the raw plaster, which he would have prepared and sent
+    on to Chicahuastla. It was late in the afternoon, before we started for Cuquila,
+    where we planned to pass the night. It was a mistake to make so late a start. For a
+    time, the road was fairly level, but at last we went up a brisk ascent, reaching the
+    summit near sunset. The road down would have been a bad one, even in the daytime. As
+    it was, if we had not had a good moon, we could hardly have made the descent. From
+    the depth of the ca&ntilde;on we ascended to Cuquila, thoroughly tired, somewhat
+    before seven. It was with the greatest difficulty that we could find anyone of whom
+    to ask our way to the town-house. Our voices were sufficient to plunge any house into
+    instant darkness and silence. After a long search, we found a man who agreed to seek
+    the <i>presidente</i>. He and <a name="page130"
+    id="page130"/>the rest of the town officials finally met us on the
+    road, and, after reading our order, took us to the town-house. It was with difficulty
+    that we got fodder for our horses. It was only after persistent and dire threats,
+    that we secured food for ourselves, and firewood to make the room, in which we were
+    to sleep, endurable. It was long past eleven before we were through our troubles and
+    lay down on mats to sleep.</p>
+    <p>Though we had warned the town officials that we should leave at seven, and must
+    have breakfast before we left, when we arose, we found no steps whatever taken for
+    our accommodation. Yet the town officials had been up long enough to be thoroughly
+    affected by their early morning drinks. Feeling that patience had ceased to be a
+    virtue, we summoned the authorities, and told the <i>presidente</i> that he had paid
+    no attention whatever to his <i>jefe's</i> order; that we had had far too much
+    difficulty in securing the bad accommodations we had been furnished; that their
+    promise to prepare a suitable breakfast had been completely disregarded. We told them
+    that our duty was to send immediate complaint to Tlaxiaco; that we would, however,
+    give them one more chance. We should not stop for breakfast, but would proceed upon
+    our journey hungry; if, however, we sent him further orders regarding our return
+    journey, we should expect them obeyed to the very letter. With this we mounted.</p>
+    <p>In vain the <i>presidente</i> and officials begged us to wait, promising that
+    everything should be prepared. Time was too precious, and away we rode.</p>
+    <p>Soon after leaving Cuquila we struck a fifty-minute mountain, the summit of which
+    we made at nine o'clock exactly. Here we sat in the shade and lunched on bread and
+    pineapples, bought the day before in Tlaxiaco. From the summit, there was a slow and
+    gentle descent around that ridge, and then a slow incline along an endless ravine,
+    until <a name="page131" id="page131"/>at last
+    we came out upon a crest, from which we looked down upon one of the grandest mountain
+    scenes of the world. A valley of impressive size, surrounded by magnificent mountain
+    masses, lay below us, and just to the right, at our feet, was Chicahuastla. Few
+    people in Mexico are so little known as the Triquis. Orozco y Berra, usually a good
+    authority, locates them near Tehuantepec, in the low country. The towns which he
+    calls Triqui are Chontal; the five true Triqui towns are in the high Mixteca. The
+    largest is the town which we were now approaching. The Triquis are people of small
+    stature, dark-brown color, black eyes, aquiline, but low and rather broad nose; they
+    are among the most conservative, suspicious and superstitious of Mexican indians.
+    Most of them dress in native clothing, and all speak the Triqui and not the Spanish
+    language. As a people they are sadly degraded, through being exceptionally addicted
+    to drink.</p>
+    <p>Don Guillermo Murcio is a character. He and his family are almost the only
+    <i>mestizos</i> in the place. He is a hale and hearty blacksmith, and has lived for
+    fifteen years in this purely indian town, where he has gained almost unbounded
+    influence among the simple natives. His word is law, and the town-government trembles
+    before his gaze. He is impetuous in manner, quick-tempered, and on the slightest
+    suggestion of disregard of his commands, freely threatens jail or other punishment.
+    He received us cordially, and we lived at his house, where we were treated to the
+    best that was available.</p>
+    <p>We have already referred to the beautiful location of Chicahuastla. Its appearance
+    is most picturesque. Unlike the indian towns in the Mixteca which we had so far
+    visited, it has many houses of circular form with conical roof. It is possible that
+    this style of construction is the result of African influence. At Chicahuastla we
+    were on <a name="page132" id="page132"/>the
+    very summit of the great water-shed, and from it, when the air is clear, one may look
+    down, over a sea of lesser summits and mountain ranges, to the waters of the Pacific.
+    Along the Pacific coast, in the state of Guerrero, are whole towns of Africans,
+    descendants of slaves, who build their houses after the circular pattern, so common
+    throughout the dark continent. We did not find in the Triquis any admixture of
+    African blood, but it is possible the mode of house-building may have been influenced
+    by negro example.</p>
+    <p>Our first glimpse of the town suggested a veritable paradise. At eleven the sky
+    was clear, the sun almost tropical, the whole country smiled under its warm beams;
+    but at two there came a change. Fogs, so dense as to shut out the view of what was
+    across the road, drifted down from the summit on which we had seen cloud masses
+    forming. Deeper and deeper, wetter and wetter, colder and colder grew the mist. All,
+    wrapped in their thickest blankets, were shivering, crouched upon the ground, trying
+    in vain to keep themselves warm. At first we thought this might be a rare occasion,
+    but were assured that it is an every-day occurrence, and from our own experience of
+    four or five days, we can easily believe the statement to be true. How any people can
+    live in such a spot, suffering keenly twenty hours in the day, simply for the four
+    hours of clear sunshine and warmth is inexplicable; and the nights were torments! Don
+    Guillermo's house is well built of logs and plaster, but no house could keep out that
+    bitter cold night air which chilled us, as we lay in bed, until we could hardly
+    move.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image034a.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>DON GUILLERMO AND HIS FAMILY;
+CHICAHUASTLA</b></p>
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image034b.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>GROUP OF TRIQUIS; CHICAHUASTLA</b></p>
+<br />
+
+    <p>We have already stated that the people of Chicahuastla are conservative and
+    superstitious. Our operations of measuring, photographing and bust-making filled the
+    town with alarm and concern. It was hard enough to get our male subjects; the women
+    were yet more difficult. At first we failed to secure any, but after we had several
+    times<a name="page133" id="page133"/> told the
+    town officials that twenty-five women must be forthcoming for measurement, and Don
+    Guillermo had stormed and threatened, the town-government began to plan a mode of
+    carrying out our wishes. Close by Don Guillermo's house was the miserable little
+    village <i>plaza</i>, where the women of the town assembled with corn-cakes and other
+    articles for trade. There, they met the travelling peddlers coming from Tlaxiaco,
+    from Cuquila and the coast, and drove their bargains, mostly a matter of trade, not
+    purchase, with them. Waiting at the place where we were working, until one or two
+    women were to be seen in the <i>plaza</i>, the town officials separated, going in two
+    directions. In a few minutes an anxious watcher, from our point of view, might have
+    seen a gradually contracting circle of men surrounding the <i>plaza</i>. Usually at
+    the same time that this circle was evident to the watcher, it became also evident to
+    the women. With cries of terror, the poor creatures would start off as fast as their
+    legs would carry them, over the mountain trails, with the whole town government,
+    sixteen strong, in pursuit, with yells and screams. It was like nothing but the chase
+    of deer by hounds. Usually, the women, given strength by terror, escaped; but once
+    out of three times, perhaps, the officials returned in triumph with their prisoner in
+    their midst, who was at once measured and then, if need be, photographed. In course
+    of time these hunts supplied the twenty-five victims desired.</p>
+    <p>It might not be uninteresting to describe the events of a single afternoon in a
+    Triqui town. On one occasion, having eaten dinner, we had scarcely begun our work
+    when we heard a great uproar and din upon the road toward Santo Domingo. Looking in
+    that direction, we saw a crowd of men and boys struggling toward us. As they came
+    nearer, we saw that six or eight of the party were <a
+    name="page134" id="page134"/>carrying some awkward and inconvenient
+    burden. It was a man, sprawling face downward; two or more held his arms, an equal
+    number his legs; about his waist a belt, knotted behind, was tied, and then through
+    the knot was thrust a strong pole, which was being carried by two men, one on either
+    side. Struggling against those who carried him, raising his face and snarling and
+    gnashing at the crowd, the prisoner presented a fearful spectacle. It seemed that,
+    being drunk, he had quarreled with his friend, whom he had nearly murdered with his
+    <i>machete</i>. About the middle of the afternoon we heard a loud crying in the other
+    direction, toward the church and jail, and, on looking, saw coming toward us a man,
+    whose head was broken open and from it was streaming blood, his head and face were
+    covered, and his white shirt, to the waist and even below, was soaked with the red
+    fluid. He was wringing his hands and crying in a piteous manner. When he came to
+    where we stood, he told his tale of woe. He was the majordomo in charge of the church
+    property. He had expected that the priest would make his visit to the pueblo on that
+    day, and had so announced it to the people; the pious parishioners looked forward,
+    with interest, to the coming of the <i>padre</i>. When the day passed, however, and
+    the priest failed to appear, one of the more religious felt so outraged that he had
+    broken open the head of the majordomo with a club, on account of his disappointment.
+    We told the poor fellow to go home and let his wife clean him up and change his
+    clothing, promising that, if he died, his assailant should be punished. That evening
+    there was a little moonlight at Chicuhuastla, the only time during our stay. As we
+    sat eating supper, we heard an outcry in the direction of the church and jail. Asking
+    Don Guillermo what might be the cause, he replied that there was probably some
+    trouble at the jail. We insisted on going to see what might be<a name="page135" id="page135"/> happening. Don
+    Guillermo, the plaster-worker, Mariano, Manuel and I, seizing whatever weapons were
+    convenient at hand, started for the jail. We found an excited crowd gathered around
+    the doorway. On a log before the door there sat a creature crazy-drunk. I have never
+    seen a case more horrible. He screamed, yelled, gnashed his teeth, struck and snapped
+    at everyone around. The whole village stood in terror. I addressed the policemen, who
+    seemed quite helpless. "Why not thrust him into the jail? Quick! Seize him! In with
+    him!" Encouraged by our words, they seized him, the door was quickly opened, and he
+    was cast into the little room, which already contained more than thirty persons, the
+    harvest of a single afternoon. When the door was locked, we saw for the first time
+    why the policemen had been so timid. One of them came limping up to us, crying, and
+    showed his leg. From its fleshy part a good mouthful of flesh had been cleanly bitten
+    by the madman. The wound was bleeding profusely, and the poor fellow wrung his hands
+    and cried with pain.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image035.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>VIEW AT CHICAHUASTLA</b></p>
+<br />
+
+    <p>We had finished our measurements and photographs, but there had been no sign as
+    yet of the plaster; concluding that Se&ntilde;or Cordova had forgotten his promise,
+    we were prepared to leave town early the next morning. After dark two men came from
+    Tlaxiaco, one of whom brought sufficient plaster for making two good busts. This
+    plaster had been brought, in a crude state, twenty miles from the mountains to
+    Tlaxiaco; had been calcined and ground there, by prisoners in the jail, and then sent
+    fifteen miles to us over the mountains. We were interested in the men who brought it.
+    One of them was a prisoner from the Tlaxiaco jail. He had been sentenced to ten days
+    for drinking, and it was he who carried the plaster. The other proudly informed us
+    that he was a policeman, and had come to make sure that <a
+    name="page136" id="page136"/>the prisoner returned. Thoroughly
+    delighted at their coming, we broke our custom and gave the men a trifle. Alas, the
+    day! That very night both men, policeman and prisoner, were thrust into the local
+    jail, helplessly drunk.</p>
+    <p>One evening, during our stay at Chicahuastla, Don Guillermo begged me to go into
+    the kitchen to examine a baby, upon whom he was thinking of performing a surgical
+    operation. The creature was a boy some three months old, pure indian. We had heard
+    him crying at night ever since we had come, but had not seen him. A tumor, or some
+    growth, was on his neck, below the chin. Don Guillermo handed me the razor, in order
+    that I might remove the swelling, but I refused the task. The story of the child is
+    sad. It is the son of a young indian boy and girl, not married. That would not be a
+    serious matter among the Triquis. For some reason, however, the mother did not like
+    the child, and scarcely was it born, when she went with it into the forest; there in
+    a lonely place she choked it, as she thought, to death, and buried it in the ground.
+    The town authorities, suspecting something of her purpose, had followed her and were
+    watching at the moment. No sooner had she left the spot than they dug up the child,
+    found it still alive, and brought it to Don Guillermo, who had kept it at the town's
+    charge.</p>
+    <p>The last night of our stay at Chicahuastla, just after supper, a cavalcade came to
+    the door. It was the <i>jefe</i> of the next district&mdash;Juxtlahuaca&mdash;with a
+    guard of six mounted men. Apparently a pleasant fellow, he was at the moment excited
+    over a recent disturbance in his district. In an attempt which he had made to adjust
+    a certain difficulty, he and his guard had been fired on and stones thrown from the
+    height above them, by the people of the pueblo. One of his companions died from the
+    effect of the attack. The officer plainly feared an outbreak or up<a name="page137" id="page137"/>rising, and was
+    nervous and uneasy, though Don Guillermo assured him that in his house there was
+    absolutely no danger. Finally, we quieted down and all went to bed, we with the
+    intention of an early start the next morning.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image036a.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>AT WORK; MEASURING</b></p>
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image036b.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>AT WORK; BUST MAKING</b></p>
+<br />
+
+
+    <p>After an uneasy night, I awoke about five o'clock. Just as I was thinking of
+    calling my companions, I felt a faint trembling, which rapidly increased to a heavy
+    shaking, of the house in which we slept. There was a moment's pause, and then a
+    second shaking, which began stronger than the other, but which lasted about the same
+    time. It was the most serious earthquake shock we ever experienced in Mexico. Had the
+    house been made of brick and plaster, considerable damage might have been done.
+    Everyone was wide awake in an instant. The whole town was in excitement. The
+    church-bell was rung and the people flocked out into the street. The shock passed at
+    exactly 5:20, and, in other towns, notably in Oaxaca, it did considerable damage.</p>
+    <p>Two days before, we had sent word to the authorities at Cuquila, that we should
+    breakfast with them on our way back to Tlaxiaco, and ordered them to be ready for our
+    coming. This was the opportunity which had been promised them for redeeming
+    themselves and avoiding complaint to their <i>jefe</i>. Arriving at the town at 9:40,
+    we were met at the roadside by some of the officials, who led us at once to the
+    town-house. Here the whole town government was gathered to greet us; politely each
+    one, stepping forward, removed his hat and kissed my hand; they then invited us to
+    sit down at the table and breakfast,&mdash;whereupon eggs, chicken, <i>tortillas</i>
+    and <i>frijoles</i>&mdash;the best the town could supply&mdash;were set before us.
+    The whole government sat by, looking on as we ate.</p>
+    <p>Immediately after breakfast, in accordance with our order previously sent, we were
+    taken to see a potter at work.<a name="page138"
+    id="page138"/> Cuquila is famous for two lines of manufacture, pottery
+    and woolen garments. The pottery here made is skillfully shaped into wonderfully
+    large vessels of different forms. The product goes throughout this whole district,
+    and even down to the Pacific coast, a hundred miles distant. Along the roads it is a
+    common thing to meet parties of three or four men carrying great loads of water-jars,
+    large bowls, etc., for sale or trade. While we were inspecting the potter's work, a
+    slight shock of earthquake, almost too gentle to be noticed, passed through the
+    place.</p>
+    <p>At Cuquila, we found that we should not meet Se&ntilde;or Cordova at Tlaxiaco. He
+    had passed through the town the night before, on his way to Juxtlahuaca, with a band
+    of soldiers to assist his neighboring <i>jefe</i> in maintaining order.</p>
+    <p>Leaving our Cuquila reprobates in friendly and gentle mood, we started for
+    Tlaxiaco, where we arrived at half-past two. Something after four o'clock, we heard a
+    violent ringing of the church-bell and saw the people flocking out onto the streets;
+    looking up at the church-tower, although we did not feel the shock, we saw that the
+    whole church was being violently shaken, and that the ringing bells, which we had
+    heard, were not moved by human hands. This third shock of the day was more strongly
+    felt in other districts, than with us. In the City of Mexico, three hundred miles
+    away, it was the most severe of the day.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image037.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>VIEW AT CHICAHUASTLA</b></p>
+<br />
+
+    <p>The whole town was in commotion; people threw themselves upon their knees in the
+    streets and prayed to the Virgin for protection. Later in the day, we saw a priest
+    and a saint's figure passing through the streets, and as they passed the people paid
+    reverence. Surely the little procession, illegal though it was, must have been
+    successful, for there were no further shocks. We found here a most interesting
+    superstition, which we had not met before, but which we heard several times later, in
+    other districts. We were<a name="page139"
+    id="page139"/> assured that the earthquake was but one of many signs
+    that the world was coming to an end. We discovered that thousands of the people
+    expected the ending of the world in 1900, and when we asked why, were reminded that
+    this was the last year of the century. This is certainly a survival of ancient
+    superstition. The old Mexicans did not count their years by hundreds or centuries, as
+    we do, but by cycles of 52 years each. It was believed that the world would come to
+    an end at the close of a cycle, and important ceremonies were conducted to avert such
+    a catastrophe. It is clear that the old idea, of the destruction of the world at the
+    close of a cycle, has been transferred to the new mode of reckoning time.</p>
+    <p>From Tlaxiaco to Teposcolula, there was a cart-road, though it was possible that
+    no <i>carreta</i> ever passed over it. It presented little good scenery. We passed
+    the pueblos of San Martin Jilmeca, San Felipe, and San Miguel. Just before reaching
+    the first of these towns, the road passes over a coarse rock mass, which weathers
+    into spheroidal shells. At Jilmeca and some other points along the day's route the
+    rock over which we passed was a white tufaceous material loaded with streaks of black
+    flint. Sometimes this black flint passes into chert and chalcedony of blue and purple
+    tints. Here and there, along the mountain sides, we caught glimpses of rock
+    exposures, which looked snow-white in the distance. Between Jilmeca and San Felipe
+    there was a pretty brook, with fine cypresses along the banks, and a suspension
+    bridge of great logs. Having passed through San Felipe and San Miguel, a pleasant
+    road, through a gorge, brought us to the valley in which Teposcolula lies. The great
+    convent church, historically interesting, is striking in size and architecture. The
+    priest, an excellent man, is a pure-blooded Mixtec indian, talking the language as
+    his mother tongue. With great pride he showed us about <a
+    name="page140" id="page140"/>the building, which was once a grand
+    Dominican monastery. The old carved wooden cupboard for gold and silver articles,
+    used in the church service, is fine work. The gold and silver articles for which it
+    was built have long since disappeared. In the <i>patio</i> are many old paintings,
+    most of which are badly damaged, and some of which have been repaired with pieces cut
+    from other pictures, not at all like the missing piece. Among these pictures is a
+    series of scenes from the life of Santo Domingo. Of the figures in the church, two
+    are fairly good; one, which is famous, represents Our Lady of the Rosary. In a little
+    chapel are buried the remains of the old friars; here also is a beautiful old carved
+    confessional. In front of the old church is a great court surrounded by a stone wall,
+    which is surmounted here and there with little, pointed, square pillars. To the right
+    of the church is a mass of masonry, in reddish-brown freestone, consisting of a
+    series of arches, now more or less in ruins. When the convent was at the height of
+    its splendor, the crowd of worshippers was too large for the church itself, and these
+    beautiful arches were erected to receive the overflow. In the church itself, the
+    plaster in the domes of the towers and the coloring on the walls and domes had
+    chipped and fallen, on account of the earthquake, the day before. In the ruins of the
+    upper rooms of the convent proper, stone and mortar, dislodged from the decaying
+    walls by the same shocks, lay in little heaps on the floor.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image038a.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>TRIQUI CHILDREN; CHICAHUASTLA</b></p>
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image038b.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>MIXTEC POTTER; CUQUILA</b></p>
+<br />
+
+
+    <p>The <i>cura</i> had ten churches in his charge. He says there are 2,000 people in
+    Teposcolula, few of whom are indians. In his ten churches, he has 12,000
+    parishioners. He seemed a devout man, and emphasized the importance of his preaching
+    to his congregation in their native tongue and his. So convinced is he that the
+    native idiom of the people is the shortest road to their heart and understanding,
+    that he has prepared a catechism and Christian doctrine<a
+    name="page141" id="page141"/> in the modern Mixtec, which has been
+    printed. The town itself is desolate; the <i>plaza</i> is much too large, and dwarfs
+    the buildings which surround it, and signs of desolation and decay mark everything.
+    With the fondness which Mexicans show for high-sounding and pious inscriptions, the
+    municipality has painted, upon the side of the town-house, in full sight for a long
+    distance, the words, "Nations to be great and free must be educated." From here to
+    Nochixtlan there was nothing of special interest. For some four leagues the road was
+    through a gorge; from this valley we mounted to the height, just before reaching the
+    town of Tiltepec, from which we caught an extensive view down over the great valley
+    in which Nochixtlan and this town lie. From Tiltepec we had a rather tiresome, hot,
+    and painful ride, passing San Juan Tillo and Santiago Tillo. By half past one we were
+    again in the city of Nochixtlan.</p>
+    <hr style="width: 65%;" />
+    <h2><a name="CHAPTER_XII" id="CHAPTER_XII"></a>CHAPTER XII</h2>
+    <a name="page142" id="page142"/>
+    <h2>THE MIXES REVISITED</h2>
+    <h3>(1899)</h3>
+    <p>After resting at Oaxaca, from our trip into the high Mixteca, we made preparations
+    for our new journey, leaving at three o'clock in the afternoon for the land of the
+    Zapotecs and Mixes. Our late start compelled stopping at Tule for the night. In the
+    morning we went on to Tlacolula, where we nooned, in order to see the <i>jefe</i> in
+    regard to our work. He is a competent man, showed great interest in our plan, and
+    gave valuable advice, in addition to the orders to his officials. He warned us that
+    we might meet some difficulty at Milta, where we were planning to make our study of
+    the Zapotecs, on account of the <i>fiesta</i> then in progress. He told us to notify
+    him at once in case matters did not go well there.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image039a.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>IN TLACOLULA</b></p>
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image039b.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>TYPICAL ZAPOTEC HOUSE; TLACOLULA</b></p>
+<br />
+
+
+    <p>The <i>fiesta</i> at Milta should have been a three days' affair. This year,
+    however, it began on Sunday with the result that it filled four days. Reaching there
+    in the afternoon of Monday, we found the whole town in great excitement and
+    dissipation. The <i>plaza</i> had been enclosed with a fencing of poles, and
+    <i>toros</i> were the amusement of the afternoon. The country sports with bulls are
+    different from the regular bull-fights of the cities. Any one takes part who pleases,
+    and while there is little of trained skill, there is often much of fun, frolic, and
+    daring. The bull is led into the ring from outside by a lasso. It is then lassoed
+    from behind and dragged up to a post or tree, to which it is firmly tied to prevent
+    its moving. A rope is then tightly<a name="page143"
+    id="page143"/> cinched about its middle and a man mounts upon the back
+    of the beast, fixing his feet firmly in the rope below, between it and the animal,
+    and winding his hands into it above. The ropes which hold the bull are then withdrawn
+    so as to set it loose. Dozens of men and big boys, with jackets and <i>serapes</i>,
+    then torment the beast, which, plunging and dashing at them, scatters them in every
+    direction. Sometimes the angry animal attempts to break through the fence, causing
+    excitement and consternation among the crowds who have been hanging to it and looking
+    over. When, as sometimes happens, he does break through, there is great scattering
+    before him, and closing in behind him, until he is again captured. The man riding on
+    the bull's back clings as long as he can, in spite of the plunging and other frantic
+    efforts of the animal to unseat him; comparatively few stay long in their
+    uncomfortable position, and when they are thrown, much agility is required to escape
+    from the furious animal.</p>
+    <p>As we rode into town these sports were in full blast; everyone, save the
+    bull-fighters, was drunk. Now and then a tube of iron filled with powder was
+    exploded. A band in front of the municipal house was supplying music. A little group
+    of men with <i>pitos</i> and <i>tambours</i> strolled from place to place, playing.
+    Much selling was in progress in the booths, the chief articles offered being
+    intoxicating drinks. A cluster of drunken vocalists, sitting flat upon the ground,
+    but almost unable to hold themselves upright, were singing horribly to untuned
+    guitars. In front of the town-house a bench had been dragged out by the authorities
+    for the benefit of the <i>cura</i>, who, seated thereon, was watching the sports with
+    maudlin gravity. The <i>presidente</i> and other officials were standing by the
+    <i>padre</i>, and all were drinking at frequent intervals. Thinking the moment
+    opportune, I approached the party and handed them my <a
+    name="page144" id="page144"/>documents; but both <i>presidente</i>
+    and priest were far too drunk to realize my needs. Surveying the drunken town, I felt
+    that it was necessary to act promptly and firmly if we were to accomplish anything
+    before the <i>fiesta</i> ended. The only member of the government who was not
+    extremely drunk that afternoon was the <i>sindico</i>. Calling him to me, I addressed
+    him, scorning both priest and <i>presidente</i>. I refused to drink with them, saying
+    that they were already too drunk to know their duties, and that both should be
+    ashamed of their condition. At this time the <i>cura</i> asked me if I were a
+    clergyman. On my replying no, he remarked that I looked like one. I told him yes,
+    that I was frequently mistaken for one; that a priest in the Mixteca had even thought
+    that I was a bishop. He then drunkenly inquired whether I were married, and on my
+    replying no, made the astonishing observation that then, it was certain that I could
+    not be a priest,&mdash;that every priest had one wife, bishops two, and archbishops
+    three. This drunken priest had just been making certain observations to the
+    <i>presidente</i> calculated to interfere with my work, and I felt that I now had my
+    opportunity. So, turning upon him, I gravely reproved him for his remark. I told him
+    that, in his language and his drunkenness, he was setting a bad example to his
+    parish; that he should go at once to the <i>curato</i>, and not venture forth during
+    the time that we remained in the town. Half-sobered by my order, he arose without a
+    word, went to his house, and did not again appear for four days. Having gotten him
+    out of the way, I turned to the drunken officials and told them that, early the next
+    morning, I should begin my work, and that they must make the needful preparations;
+    that I wished to measure, photograph, and make busts of the population. I told them
+    that at present they were too drunk to aid me, but that the following morning things
+    must be different; that enough <a name="page145"
+    id="page145"/>at least to attend to my orders must be sober. After
+    supper, attracted by the noise and hubbub, we set out to see the <i>plaza</i>.
+    Torches were flaring in every direction, and considerable business was being done at
+    all the booths. Crowds of drunken people were squatting on the ground in all
+    directions; at the town-house the band of music was playing the <i>jarabe</i>, and 40
+    or 50 persons were dancing this lively dance. Old and young, men and women, boys and
+    girls, all were taking part; no one paid attention to any other person, but each
+    seemed to be trying to prove himself the most agile of the party. All were drunk,
+    some astonishingly so. Occasionally a dancer would bump against such an one, who
+    would fall head over heels. Immediately picking himself up, he would go at it again,
+    with even greater vigor; sometimes one fell, of himself, in a helpless heap, and lay
+    where he fell, until kicked out of the way or until the music stopped. All around was
+    pandemonium; yelling, singing, cursing, fighting were in progress; the jail was
+    crowded, but every now and then a new case was dragged up; for an instant the door
+    was opened, and against the crowd, pushing from within, the new prisoner would be
+    crowded into the cell. At one time in the evening a cry arose that a murder was being
+    committed in the jail. The door was opened, the policemen crowded in, and the two men
+    who had clinched and were battling were torn apart. One was dragged outside and
+    thrown into the woman's jail, and for a time the air was blue with the most insulting
+    cries. Convinced that no work could be done in the afternoons, we labored with the
+    greatest possible diligence each morning. The first morning, going to the town-house,
+    we ordered subjects to be brought. The <i>presidente</i> was drunk; the
+    <i>sindico</i> also; still, some of the town officials were found in a condition able
+    to do our bidding. Having measured a few of the officials, we proposed to take such
+    prisoners as <a name="page146" id="page146"/>
+    still remained in the jail, from the batch of the preceding day. There were eighteen
+    of these, and with them we made a good beginning. Among the prisoners we found our
+    first subject for modelling. Oiling him, we began to make the moulds. The back-piece
+    had been applied; the second piece, covering the lower part of the face and upper
+    chest, was hardening, and we were busily engaged in putting on the final application
+    over the upper part of the face. At this moment the <i>presidente</i> staggered into
+    the jail. When his eyes fell upon our subject, he stopped aghast; for a moment he was
+    unable to speak; then he groaned out the words, "O horrible spectacle! To think of
+    seeing a son of this town in such a position!" As I was beginning to laugh and
+    ridicule him, the old mother of the young man came bursting into the jail, weeping
+    and trembling, to see what fate had overtaken her son. Wringing her hands, the tears
+    rolled down her face, and her voice was choked with sobs, as she asked pitifully
+    whether he must die; she told me that he was her only support, and that, without him,
+    she was absolutely alone. Taking the old woman outside, while the mask should be
+    completed, I chatted with her, and as soon as the pieces of the mould were removed,
+    delivered her precious son, unharmed, into her hands.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image040a.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>ORGANO CACTUS; TLACOLULA</b></p>
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image040b.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>WHERE TREE FERNS GROW</b></p>
+<br />
+
+
+    <p>Just as we were ready for a new subject, a young fellow, better dressed than most,
+    passed by. We called him to come in and be measured, but with a somewhat insolent
+    manner, he walked by, paying no attention to our words. Sending the policemen for
+    him, they soon returned with the report, "<i>No quiere</i>" (He does not care to
+    come). To allow a first refusal was not to be thought of, so we ordered his return.
+    Again the policemen came back with no result. Thereupon I declared that no more work
+    should be done until he came; that time would be lost thereby, and the<a name="page147" id="page147"/> <i>jefe's</i> order
+    would be disregarded, but that it was not our fault. Upon this the <i>presidente</i>
+    informed us that the order was not explicit; it did not state that people must be
+    measured; he would consult the civil code to see whether anyone but criminals must be
+    measured. "Very good," said I, "do as you like; but unless that young man is brought
+    in we shall send complaint to the <i>jefe</i>; send for a messenger at once to carry
+    my report." At this stage, the policemen returned, telling me that the young man
+    wanted did not belong to this town; that he could not be found, and probably had gone
+    home. We told them that we did not believe them, but that we would proceed with our
+    work; however, I said, that, if he really were a stranger but appeared again, I
+    should order his immediate arrest and jailing. To this they all agreed; and we
+    continued work until the town was again too drunk for anything to be done.</p>
+    <p>About the middle of the afternoon, when the bull-fighting was at its height, the
+    young man wanted appeared in the ring as the chief fighter and attraction of the day.
+    Stepping at once to the policemen I told them that he must be brought immediately to
+    the town-house,&mdash;that the bull-fight must cease while our matters were arranged.
+    With much grumbling and complaint they obeyed. The young man dismounted from his bull
+    and was brought by the policeman before us. Here we asked the <i>sindico</i> the name
+    and residence of the young man; and, as we supposed, he belonged in Mitla. Asking him
+    why he had not come to be measured when he was told to do so, he replied that we had
+    already measured him. Telling him that lying would not save him, I commanded him to
+    appear the following morning for measurement,&mdash;that otherwise he would be sent a
+    prisoner to Oaxaca. In the morning he did not appear until officials were sent to
+    bring him. After he had gone through the ordeal of measurement he swore eternal
+    friend<a name="page148" id="page148"/>ship to
+    me, and at no time afterward was I able to pass him, on the street or in the square,
+    without his begging me to drink <i>tepache</i> with him.</p>
+    <p>Mitla is famous for its weaving; fine <i>mantas</i> of wool are made there in two
+    chief styles&mdash;one a long strip of black or blue-black cloth, the other a rich
+    red, sometimes banded or striped with black. These Mitla <i>mantas</i> are widely
+    sold to Zapotecs, in all the district around, and form the characteristic women's
+    dress. The Zapotecs of this district wear something on their feet that more nearly
+    resembles true shoes than the footgear of any other Indians in southern Mexico. The
+    sandal of the man has a projecting heel-flap which is bound around the ankles by
+    means of thongs, and forms a good protection to the hind part of the foot. The women
+    have not only such a flap, even higher than that used by the men, but also a broad
+    strip of leather over the forward part of the foot, leaving the toes peeping out in
+    front; between the heel flap and the toe covering, the foot is quite as well
+    enclosed, excepting for the toes, as in a white man's shoe.</p>
+    <p>It was quite impossible, with the amount of work we had to do, and the
+    difficulties under which we labored, to give the least attention to the ruins. We
+    arranged, however, to make a photograph of the town authorities standing in the great
+    court of one of the fine old buildings&mdash;a court the walls of which are covered
+    with beautiful mosaic decorations, betraying taste and skill. The motley crew of
+    half-drunk officials, miserably dressed, degraded, poor, in this scene of past
+    magnificence, called up thoughts of the contrast between the government of old Mitla
+    and the present,&mdash;of past magnificence and modern squalor.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image041.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>THE CONTRAST; PAST AND
+PRESENT&mdash;MITLA</b></p>
+<br />
+
+    <p>Having accomplished all we wished at Mitla, we again struck eastward toward the
+    land of the Mixes. Late in starting, we made no attempt to go further than San
+    Loren<a name="page149" id="page149"/> zo that
+    afternoon. The old road was familiar, and from there on, through the following day,
+    everything came back to memory. Even individual trees, projecting rock masses, and
+    little streams, were precisely as we remembered them from our journey of three years
+    earlier. We reached Ayutla in the evening a little before sunset. Riding directly to
+    the municipal house we summoned the town government. We had not provided ourselves
+    with orders from the <i>jefe</i> of the district, as Villa Alta, the <i>jefatura</i>,
+    lay far out of our course. We planned to use our general letter from the governor.
+    When the officials assembled we presented our order and explained it; we told them
+    what we needed for the night, and arrangements were at once made for supplying us; we
+    then told the <i>presidente</i> of the work we had before us, and informed him that,
+    because his town was small, we should ask for only thirty-five men for measurement,
+    and that these must be ready, early in the morning, with no trouble to us.</p>
+    <p>The <i>presidente</i> demurred; he doubted whether the people would come to be
+    measured; we told him that they would not come, of course, unless he sent for them.
+    When morning came, although everything had been done for our comfort, there was no
+    sign of subjects. That no time might be lost, we took the <i>presidente</i> and three
+    or four other officials, who were waiting around the house; then, with firmness, we
+    ordered that he should bring other subjects. The officials were gone for upwards of
+    an hour, and when they returned, had some ten or twelve men with them. "Ah," said I,
+    "you have brought these, then, for measurement?" "On the contrary, sir," said the
+    <i>presidente</i>, "this is a committee of the principal men of the town who have
+    come to tell you that the people do not wish to be measured." "Ah," said I, "so you
+    are a committee, are you, come to tell me that you do not wish to be measured?"
+    "Yes." Wait<a name="page150" id="page150"/>ing
+    a moment, I turned to the officials and asked, "And which one particularly does not
+    wish to be measured of this committee?" Immediately, a most conservative-looking
+    individual was pointed out. Addressing him, I said, "And so you do not wish to be
+    measured?" "No sir," said he, "I will not be measured." "Very good," said I. "What is
+    your name?" He told us. I marked it down upon my blank, and wrote out the description
+    of his person. Then, seizing my measuring rod, I said to him quite sharply, "Well,
+    well! Take off your hat and sandals. We must lose no time!" And before he really
+    realized what we were doing, I had taken his measurements. Having finished with him,
+    I turned again to the <i>presidente</i>. "And what other member of the committee
+    particularly objects to being measured?" As I spoke, another man was indicated.
+    Turning to him, I said, "Let us lose no time. Take off your hat and sandals while I
+    measure you." In an instant the thing was done. The operation was carried through.
+    Before I had finished with the second case, the others began to smile and snicker,
+    and when I was ready for my third subject I simply asked, "Who next?" and they came
+    one after another without complaint. Having measured all the members of the
+    committee, I soberly addressed them. "Now, if there is any harm in this that I have
+    done, you are all as badly off as can be. If I were you, I would try to get as many
+    other people in the same position as I could; go out and bring in others." Before
+    noon the work was done, and we were ready to go on to Juquila.</p>
+    <p>We rested, however, the balance of the day, and spent a second night at Ayutla.
+    The day had been given to drinking, throughout the town. It will be remembered that
+    the village proper lies on a terrace, upon a slope above the town-house. As we sat
+    before the house, in the afternoon and evening, we heard from time to time yells and
+    cries <a name="page151" id="page151"/>above.
+    Some policemen, who were standing up there to keep order, would then appear upon the
+    edge of the slope, and, waving their hands, would loudly cry for help; then the
+    policemen from the town-house would run to their assistance, and in a little time the
+    party would return, dragging one or more victims to the jail. This operation
+    continued from early in the afternoon until late at night; fully fifteen or twenty
+    persons were brought down from the village to the jail during that time.</p>
+    <p>We had hoped to find the valley of clouds, and the great cloud cataract, on the
+    road to Juquila, but were doomed to disappointment. When we stood upon the summit,
+    looking down into what before had been the sea of mist, the whole place was clear,
+    and everything, to the very bottom of the valley, was visible. The further journey
+    seemed more tedious than before, and the latter part of the road seemed truly
+    endless. There was not a breath of air; the sun poured its hot rays down mercilessly.
+    Long before we reached Juquila I felt, for the first time in Mexico, that I was
+    suffering from fever. After seven and a half hours on the road, we reached the town
+    at 1:30 in the afternoon, and went at once to the town-house, where we were well
+    received, and arrangements were made for our comfort. When they saw that I was
+    suffering, they brought out hammocks, of which I made no use. Making myself a bed of
+    blankets upon the floor, I lay down in my misery and covered myself from the world, a
+    blanket over my head. After some hours, I felt that we were losing time, and that we
+    must, at least, make arrangements for the work of the following day. It was now dusk.
+    I sent for the officials, and when they appeared, told them that, notwithstanding my
+    suffering, I could not lose time, and that early in the morning they must bring
+    persons for measurement. There was a good deal of discussion over the matter. The
+    officials were dis<a name="page152"
+    id="page152"/>satisfied that my order was not signed by the
+    <i>jefe</i> of their district and dated from San Carlos. They suggested that we send
+    a messenger to San Carlos to inquire whether the order was all right. I replied that
+    four days would be consumed in going and coming; that time was precious, and that it
+    was impossible for us to wait. Seeing that they were likely to refuse to do what I
+    wished, I made a little speech, in which I told them they had better do what I asked,
+    and that promptly. No one so far had recognized me as having been there before. I
+    told them that they had never had better friend that I; that this was not the first
+    time I had visited Juquila; that when I came before I had had difficulty; that my
+    companion, presenting an order from the governor, had been badly received by their
+    <i>presidente</i>, who tried to do him violence; that if I had reported this
+    incident, they knew well what would have happened; that, however, being their good
+    friend, I had never reported it. Having jogged their memory regarding the past, I
+    suggested to them that a report of the previous occurrence, with their present
+    disregard of orders, might be serious. I told them that they knew what I desired;
+    that they might at once inform me whether it would be done or not; if they decided in
+    the negative, the <i>secretario</i> and my <i>mozo</i> must start at once on foot to
+    Oaxaca, carrying my complaint to the governor; that, as for me, having started them
+    upon their journey, I should leave early the following morning going to some town
+    where the people knew what obedience to the law meant. They at once promised that no
+    time should be lost, and that, the following morning, I should have the subjects for
+    whom I asked, viz., thirty-five men and twenty-five women. Nor was it simply
+    promises; having told them that I would begin early in the morning whether I were
+    well or ill, and that I wanted no delay, we found our thirty-five men waiting, at
+    seven o'clock.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image042.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>THE LAND OF THE MIXES</b></p>
+
+    <a name="page153" id="page153"/> <br />
+
+
+    <p>At Juquila the system of public crying from the <i>plaza</i> is fully developed.
+    The town lies in a valley, and most of the houses are on slopes surrounding the
+    little plain or terrace upon which the <i>plaza</i> is situated on which the
+    government house is built. When aid was needed by the town authorities, whether
+    <i>zacate</i> for our horses, food for ourselves, objects for inspection, or what
+    not, one of the officers, whose business it seemed to be, stepped out upon the
+    <i>plaza</i>, and, raising his voice would cry out what was needed by the
+    authorities. Whoever had the things desired, coming out before their houses, would
+    cry back the amount, description and variety of the articles they could supply. This
+    we found to be the constant practice.</p>
+    <p>Notwithstanding the clearness of the preceding day, our day of working was cold,
+    damp, and foggy. The sea of cloud and cataract of mists must have been in full
+    operation. Where we were, a heavy wind was blowing and, before night, rain falling.
+    We had not thought of the possibility of heavy storms or damaged roads at this time
+    of the year, but, before night came, the people of the village expressed surprise
+    that we should talk of leaving the next morning. They assured us that at Quezaltepec
+    and Ixcuintepec it was surely raining heavily, and that the roads would be wet,
+    slippery and impassable. Long before we went to bed, a gale was blowing and we felt
+    doubts regarding further progress. In the morning it was still wet and chilly; all
+    told of terrible roads and risks in proceeding; we delayed. Finally, we decided to
+    press on at least to Ocotopec. We had tried to send the <i>mozos</i> forward with our
+    baggage, but it was plain they would not move until we did. Finally, somewhat after
+    nine, we started. It was still heavy and chilly; we found the road much better than
+    we feared; at some points it was slippery, but not for long distances. Until we were
+    on the final descent to Ocotopec <a name="page154"
+    id="page154"/>we were sheltered from the cold wind. To be sure, here
+    and there, where the road passed little funnel openings along the crest, we felt
+    fully the cold wind loaded with mist.</p>
+    <p>We noticed, what on the other trip escaped my attention, the profound difference
+    in vegetation between the two sides of the hill upon the crest of which we were
+    travelling. The one slope, cold and damp, was densely forested with trees, loaded
+    with air-plants and orchids. The other slope, warmer and drier, was far less heavily
+    grown, and in large part, with pines. Among the plants noticed by the roadside was a
+    species of pinguicula which was very common on damp clay-cuttings. Its leaves form a
+    close, flat rosette upon the ground, from which a slender stalk rises, with a a
+    single crimson flower. When we reached the final descent to the town, we caught the
+    full force of the cold, mist-laden wind, which struck our faces and made us shiver.
+    Yet it was on this very slope, so frequently cold and wet, that the oaks, covered
+    with air-plants and blooming orchids, were at their finest. Ferns in astonishing
+    variety, from the most delicate, through giant herbaceous forms, to magnificent
+    tree-ferns; lycopods of several species, and selaginellas, in tufts, covered the
+    slopes; and great banks of begonias, in fine bloom, showed themselves. Before we
+    reached the village we were forced to dismount, on account of the slippery condition
+    of the road, and entered town on foot.</p>
+    <p>In our other journey Ocotopec made no impression on us. It is really one of the
+    most picturesque and interesting of the Mixe towns. It is built upon a slope, which
+    is cut and built into a series of little terraced gardens; clusters or groups of
+    houses stand on the terraces. The houses are rectangular, built of adobe brick and
+    heavy thatch, with a thick comb of thatch riding the ridge. Unlike most Mixe
+    churches, the church at Ocotopec is entire, and in good condition. It is built of
+    stone. The town is purely Indian, <a name="page155"
+    id="page155"/>and the type is the best we had seen. Had there been
+    light for photographing, we should have stopped there and done our work, instead of
+    passing on to Ixcuintepec. As it was, we spent the night, and were well treated.
+    Leaving early in the morning, we hurried to Quezaltepec for dinner, the road being
+    better than we had anticipated. The town is prettily distributed upon a curved crest;
+    the houses are neat, built of adobe or of poles daubed with mud. Much fruit is grown
+    here, and coffee is an important crop. In almost every yard mats were spread out, on
+    which coffee was drying, or being sorted by people squatting on the ground.
+    Considerable cotton is woven at this point.</p>
+    <p>Leaving at 3:40, the evening ride through the forest was magnificent. The flora
+    was such as we have before described. As we rode through the higher forests, we
+    constantly heard birds, notable among which were the <i>clar&iacute;ns</i>, with
+    their fine clear notes. It was dark before we reached Camotlan. Nowhere had we been
+    better treated. We were shown at once into a clean room, and were soon surrounded by
+    bustle and preparation for our comfort. There are but 143 inhabitants, of whom
+    six&mdash;four men and two women&mdash;have goitres. We had been previously informed
+    that the whole town was goitrous. There were three deaf-mutes, but no idiots, in the
+    town. Inquiring for books printed in the Mixe tongue, we were informed that the
+    choir-master had one. On expressing my desire to see it, they sent to bring him. We
+    were astonished at his appearance. The messengers who brought him carried him in
+    their arms, and set him down upon the floor, when we saw that he had been born
+    without legs, and with sadly deformed arms and hands. Yet, when once placed upon the
+    floor, he moved about easily, and had a cheery face and sunny temper. He was
+    delighted to show us his book and took the greatest pride in reading from it. It is
+    truly remarkable that he can do this. The book was written in the dialect of <a name="page156" id="page156"/>Juquila of more than
+    170 years ago. The dialect of Juquila was no doubt then different from that of
+    Camotlan, and during the 170 years there have been great changes, even in that town
+    itself. As I watched the man read from his book, I noticed that he pronounced parts
+    of words differently from the way in which they were spelled; how he had worked out
+    for himself, unaided, the proper meaning and purport of the words was a mystery. I
+    had intended to purchase the book, but found him so attached to it that I gave up the
+    plan. Had he been a normal man, I should have insisted; but then, if he had been a
+    normal man, he would not have had the book nor known how to read it.</p>
+    <p>From Camotlan we rode steadily for five hours to reach Ixcuintepec. There were
+    considerable stretches of slippery road to be passed. The two gorge rides, the
+    bridges of vines, and the houses along the way, were beautiful as ever, but the
+    magnificent mountain forests were left entirely behind us. The old church at
+    Ixcuintepec is visible on the high crest for a considerable distance. As we made the
+    final climb, the boys noticed in the trees structures one and a half feet or two feet
+    in diameter, and somewhat dome-shaped. I should have taken them for wasps' nests, but
+    the party insisted that they saw parrots come out of them, and that no doubt young
+    parrots were in the nests. Immediately there was great excitement, for Manuel had all
+    along wanted to capture a parrot to take home with him. The party stopped, and stones
+    were thrown to drive out the birds, but with no result. Finally Mariano climbed the
+    tree, creeping out along the branches almost to the nest; just at that moment an
+    unusually well-aimed stone struck the nest, but instead of parrots, out streamed a
+    great cloud of wasps, which flew straight towards the <i>mozo</i>,<a name="page157" id="page157"/> &gt;who lost no time
+    in getting down from his precarious position.</p>
+    <p>We found Ixcuintepec almost deserted; hardly any of the town officials were there.
+    Almost everyone was off, working in the coffee <i>fincas</i>. We quickly saw that we
+    had made a great mistake in waiting for our remaining subjects until this town. Not
+    only were men conspicuous by their absence, but the women were extremely hostile.
+    They objected to our photographing their houses or themselves. They drove the
+    messenger whom I had sent to measure a house, for the purpose of making a miniature
+    reproduction, off the premises with clubs. The <i>mozos</i>, who had accompanied us
+    thus far, had no intention of going farther, and the problem of getting
+    carriers&mdash;which had troubled us ever since we had left Mitla&mdash;assumed
+    serious proportions. It was with great difficulty and much bluster that we secured
+    the food we needed and the <i>mozos</i>. When the <i>mozos</i> came, three out of the
+    four whom it was necessary for us to employ, were mere boys, the heartiest and best
+    of whom was scarcely ten years old. In vain we declared that it was impossible for
+    such little fellows to carry the burdens that needed transportation. It was plain
+    that they were our only resource. Starting the three boys upon a short cut to San
+    Miguel, the oldest <i>mozo</i> and ourselves went by another road to Coatlan. It was
+    fortunate for us that the school-teacher at this town was interested in our work. We
+    took possession of the schoolhouse, showed our orders to the officials, and, after
+    much difficulty, obtained our wishes. The town was almost as deserted as had been
+    Ixcuintepec, but after infinite difficulty, we succeeded in getting sufficient
+    subjects to complete our work.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image043.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>VIEW IN QUEZALTEPEC</b></p>
+<br />
+
+    <p>We had thought ourselves unfortunate at Ixcuintepec and Coatlan; the worst lay
+    before us. We found San Miguel deserted. Our three <i>mozos</i> who had been paid,
+    and <a name="page158" id="page158"/>ordered to
+    go simply to that village, and there to leave our things, had left before we arrived.
+    The man who had come with us, we had dismissed before we realized conditions. The
+    coffee had been gathered for the season; the chief man of the place was in the
+    mountains; there was no town government; neither prayers, threats, nor bribes
+    produced food for ourselves and our horses; two or three men around the place would
+    not be hired as <i>mozos</i>. We finally were forced to leave our busts, plaster,
+    photographic outfit and plates on a bench under an open shed, and go on alone to
+    Santiago Guevea. It was a bitter disappointment, because our previous experience at
+    San Miguel had been so pleasant and interesting.</p>
+    <p>When we left Coatlan that morning, it had been through clouds and drizzling rain.
+    When we passed through San Miguel, conditions were but little better. From there, we
+    went through a gorge road, everywhere passing little plantations of coffee, bananas,
+    and tobacco. Finally, we began our last mountain or forest climb. The wind with the
+    rain became colder and more penetrating. At the summit, we found a typical norther
+    raging, and at points our animals and ourselves were almost blown from the crest. In
+    good weather the road is long, but through this it was dreadful. Few towns compare in
+    beauty of location, and appearance from a distance, with Santiago Guevea. It was
+    nearly five when we drew up in front of the crowded town-house. It will be remembered
+    that this town is Zapotec, Coatlan being the last Mixe town. The school-teacher
+    interested himself in our welfare, securing for us a real sleeping-room with cots,
+    putting our horses into the corridor of the schoolhouse, and arranging for our meals.
+    Chocolate and bread were at once furnished, and at eight o'clock a good supper was
+    sent to our room. In the <i>plaza</i> outside, the wind was blowing a hurricane and
+    the cold cut like a knife; but the <a name="page159"
+    id="page159"/>house in which we slept was tight and warm. In the
+    morning, we found the wild weather still continuing. It had been out of the question
+    to send <i>mozos</i> to San Miguel the night before, and it seemed wicked to start
+    them out in such a storm of wind, fog, rain and cold. Still, our time was precious,
+    and we ordered men sent to the place where our stuff had been left, to fetch it;
+    meanwhile, we decided to wait until they should appear. Our animals had had nothing
+    to eat the previous day, except a little corn we had brought with us from Coatlan. We
+    therefore ordered <i>zacate</i> brought for them. The night before, I had inquired
+    regarding the acquaintances we had made at San Miguel in our previous trip. I learned
+    that the man had died less than a month before, but that the widow, the four boys and
+    the little girl, having finished their work at the coffee <i>finca</i> at San Miguel,
+    were in town. Accordingly we called at the house. The woman immediately recognized
+    me, and asked after Don Ernesto. The boys were sleeping, bedded on piles of coffee,
+    but were routed from their slumber to greet us. At first, none of them remembered me,
+    but the little girl did, and soon Castolo also. Their house was comfortable, and
+    piles of corn, coffee, and bananas were stacked up in the place. They invited us to
+    stop with them, but we were already well housed by the authorities. As we left, the
+    woman went to the corner, and, from a pile of similar objects, took two things neatly
+    wrapped in corn-husks. On opening them, we found that they were eggs, which are
+    frequently wrapped in this way for storage, in all the indian towns. Although we had
+    ordered food for the horses, at seven o'clock it had not appeared. We called at the
+    town-house several times, but still no <i>zacate</i>. Our dinner came, and the
+    afternoon passed, but still no fodder for the horses was produced, and the poor
+    animals had eaten nothing, practically, for two whole days, although subjected to
+    hard work <a name="page160" id="page160"/>and
+    the pelting storm. We anxiously watched for the coming of the <i>mozos</i> with our
+    equipment. The storm, though still raging, was abating, and we could see well down
+    the road. When, at half past three in the afternoon, there was no sign of either men
+    or fodder, we called the town authorities to account. We told them that we would wait
+    no longer in a town where our animals could only starve; that they must forward our
+    boxes, plaster and busts promptly to Tehauntepec; that we should hold them
+    responsible for loss or delay, and that all should be delivered at the office of the
+    <i>jefe</i>. Paying no attention to their entreaties that we should wait a little
+    longer for the fodder, which they promised, as they had so many times before, would
+    come soon, we saddled our animals, and at 4:20 left the town. Just as we started,
+    little Castolo appeared with two bunches of <i>zacate</i> sent by his mother, as a
+    present to Don Federico.</p>
+    <p>Certainly, there must be a new and better road from Guevea to Santa Maria than the
+    one we traversed in our other journey, and which again, following from memory, we
+    used. It was a fearful trail, neglected and ruined, over slippery rock and rough,
+    sharp-splintered stone. Still we pressed on rapidly, making even better time than we
+    had been assured at the town that we might expect to make. Never were we more happy
+    than in reaching Santa Maria, lovely in the moonlight, with its great church, fine
+    municipal-house, cocoa-nut trees and thatched huts. Here was no sign either of the
+    norther or the rain. The next day's journey was over the hot dusty road with glimpses
+    now and then of the distant Pacific and Tlacotopec for destination. The following
+    morning we pressed on toward Tehuantepec, through the dust and heat, reaching the
+    city at noonday. To our great surprise, we found the <i>mozos</i>, with the plaster,
+    the busts, and the boxes of plates, waiting for us since four o'clock in the
+    morning.</p>
+    <hr style="width: 65%;" />
+    <h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIII" id="CHAPTER_XIII"></a>CHAPTER XIII</h2>
+    <a name="page161" id="page161"/>
+    <h2>ABOUT TEHUANTEPEC</h2>
+    <h3>(1899)</h3>
+    <p>Since our former visit to Tehuantepec, that hot and dusty city had suffered
+    terrible misfortune. Through a period of several months it was subject to frequent
+    shocks of earthquakes; for a time these were of daily occurrence, and on one occasion
+    there were seventeen in a single day. The town still showed the destruction produced
+    by these earthquake shocks, although for some months past there had been none.
+    Houses, stores, churches, all presented great cracks and bare spots from which
+    plaster had fallen. Many of the people had left the city permanently; those who
+    remained were completely discouraged and unwilling to spend trouble and money in the
+    repair of their houses. Tehuantepec is, of course, a city of considerable size;
+    situated on a railroad, it has lost its importance since that thoroughfare was
+    constructed. It was, formerly, the natural point through which all the produce of the
+    surrounding country passed; the railroad has given similar opportunity to other
+    places, to the loss of Tehuantepec. Between earthquakes, the damage resulting from
+    the railroad, and the location of the military forces at Juchitan, not far distant,
+    the town is declining. It is still, however, the <i>cabecera</i>, and the <i>jefe</i>
+    is a man of some force and vigor. Shortly after our arrival, I visited his office,
+    delivered the governor's letter, and stated our purpose in visiting his city. He
+    seemed interested, and at once stated that there would be no difficulty in carrying
+    out my plans; that I would find <a name="page162"
+    id="page162"/>plenty of women for measurement in Tehuantepec itself;
+    that the 100 men had better be secured at San Blas, which, although independent in
+    government, adjoins Tehuantepec. I suggested that it would be well to measure the
+    women in the court-yard of his palace; he, however, replied, "By no means; it will be
+    much better to go directly to the market, where the women are gathered in great
+    numbers; a <i>regidor</i> will accompany you to arrange the matter with your
+    subjects."</p>
+    <p>Although convinced that his plan was bad, we arranged to begin work the following
+    morning; with instruments and <i>regidor</i> we presented ourselves in the market,
+    picking out a suitable spot and preparing for work. Then I told the <i>regidor</i> to
+    bring a subject. The market-place was crowded, probably two or three hundred women
+    being there gathered. Approaching the nearest of them, the <i>regidor</i> politely
+    asked her to step up and be measured. We were not, however, dealing with Triquis. The
+    women of Tehuantepec are certainly the heads of their houses; the men occupy but an
+    inferior position. Possibly, they are really larger than their husbands, but, whether
+    that be true or not, they give that impression to the spectator. The lady indicated
+    lost no time in assuring the <i>regidor</i> that she had no intention of being
+    measured, and he returned crest-fallen to report results. He met with no sympathy. I
+    told him he had been sent to bring the women, that my business was simply to measure
+    them; that if he would do his duty, I would do mine. He made two other efforts,
+    equally futile, and finally returning, said he thought an order would be necessary. I
+    told him, if he had not already an order I did not know what an order was; that the
+    <i>jefe</i> had distinctly told me what he was to do; that he was not doing it. He
+    then said he had better go to the palace a moment; would I kindly wait. I waited. He
+    soon reappeared, and <a name="page163"
+    id="page163"/>started in bravely with a new subject, but was again
+    repulsed. Returning, he said that we had better go up to the palace and interview the
+    <i>jefe</i> again. I replied that I had no time to spare; that we had already lost
+    two hours at the palace, waiting for the <i>jefe</i> to appear, and that I did not
+    propose to lose more time; that he knew what I expected, and must either do it, or I
+    would return to my hotel. He helplessly remarked that we had better see the
+    <i>jefe</i>, whereupon I picked up my instruments and departed to the hotel. Leaving
+    my instruments at the hotel, I decided, while matters were adjusting
+    themselves&mdash;for I had no thought of bothering myself further&mdash;to call upon
+    the bishop. Sallying from the hotel, I met upon the street the <i>regidor</i> and two
+    other town officials, who were awaiting me. "Sir," said he, "will you not measure the
+    women?" "No," said I, "I am going to call upon the bishop. I have no time to waste.
+    We went once to measure the women, but you had no power; your <i>jefe</i> plainly is
+    a man without authority." "No, sir," cried he, "the <i>jefe</i> has issued a strict
+    order that the women must be measured." "No matter," I replied, "I have no time to
+    waste. I shall make my call." With this I entered the bishop's palace, and had an
+    interesting visit with that prelate. When leaving the palace, I found the
+    <i>regidor</i> and four town officials, awaiting my appearance. He at once demanded
+    whether it was not my intention to measure the women. He said that he had been to see
+    the <i>jefe</i>, and that the <i>jefe</i> said my wishes must be obeyed. I asked him
+    where it was proposed to measure the women, and he replied that it should be wherever
+    I pleased. "Very good," said I. "We will measure them in the court-yard of the
+    <i>jefe's</i> palace; have subjects brought there at once, and send a man to my hotel
+    for my instruments."</p>
+    <p>To the palace we went, and thither shortly four policemen brought a woman from the
+    market. With bad grace, <a name="page164"
+    id="page164"/>she submitted to be measured, after which the four
+    policemen went again to the market, and soon after reappeared with a second subject.
+    So the work went on, with four policemen to each woman, until our full number was
+    finally secured and the work completed.</p>
+    <p>Three years ago, on my return from Guatemala, I met in this city an English doctor
+    named Castle, who has lived here for many years&mdash;a man of scientific tastes and
+    interests, who has employed his leisure in studying the botany, zoology, and indians
+    of the district. He is well-informed, and one of the few persons acquainted with the
+    Juaves. I counted on his help in approaching that curious and little-known tribe. The
+    doctor's house is full of pets; eight different kinds of parrots, a red and yellow
+    macaw, a brilliant-billed, dark-plumaged toucan, an angora goat, a raccoon, dogs and
+    cats, are a part of the happy family that prowls at large in his house. A little
+    creature, an indian, no more than eight years old, has adopted the doctor for her
+    father. She had come to him as a patient for a trouble by no means uncommon
+    here&mdash;night-blindness; in caring for her, he gained the little creature's heart,
+    and she will hardly hear of leaving him to return home. The doctor accompanied us on
+    our first visit to San Blas, and told us many things, not only of the Juaves, but of
+    the Zapotecs and other indians of the region.</p>
+    <p>From the hotel, in the heart of Tehuantepec, to the town-house of San Blas, is a
+    walk of only twenty minutes. Here for three days we did our work, returning to our
+    hotel for meals and lodging. The work went easily, the men presenting little or no
+    objection to our operations; measurements, busts, portraits&mdash;all were taken. On
+    the whole, the Tehuantepecanos do not present a simple, pure indian type. The women
+    seemed to be purer than the men. The <i>secretario</i> at San Blas has been to
+    school. He is one of the few indians <a name="page165"
+    id="page165"/>of the district who has taken an interest in the study
+    of his native tongue. He has already published a grammar of the Zapotec, as spoken in
+    his village. He has also printed a little tract for lovers, in which high-sounding
+    phrases are translated from the Spanish into Zapotec. He has also prepared, and holds
+    in manuscript, a dictionary of the dialect containing some 4,000 words.</p>
+    <p>The visit to the Juaves we considered one of the most important and interesting of
+    our journey. These people are conservative, and among the least known of the native
+    populations of Mexico. There are but four towns, with a total population of probably
+    less than three thousand persons. These towns are situated at a few leagues' distance
+    from Tehuantepec, near the Pacific, upon narrow tongues of land, washed by salt
+    lagoons. The nearest, largest, and according to Dr. Castle, the most conservative of
+    the four towns, is San Mateo del Mar. We had hoped that Dr. Castle might accompany us
+    on our journey. This, however, was impossible, but he suggested that he would go with
+    us part of the way. To avoid the great heat, we travelled by night, as there was
+    moonlight. Hiring a <i>carretero</i> at San Blas, we loaded our materials and
+    instruments into the cart, and started it upon its way. At about four o'clock in the
+    afternoon, we rode from Tehuantepec, taking a roundabout road in order to see the
+    hill which gives name to the town. It was Sunday, and many women and girls had been
+    visiting the cemetery, carrying bowls filled with flowers to put upon the graves of
+    friends. We saw numbers of young fellows sitting by the roadside, and learned that
+    they were the lovers of the young women, awaiting their return from the cemetery.</p>
+    <p>The name Tehuantepec means the mountain of man-eaters. These man-eaters were not
+    men, but tigers, or ocelots. The story runs that long ago this mountain was <a name="page166" id="page166"/>infested with wild
+    beasts who destroyed the people of the neighboring villages. Fearing extermination,
+    the people of the town decided to consult the Juaves, who were famous for their
+    <i>naguales</i>, or witches. The oldest and most skilled <i>nagu&aacute;l</i> of the
+    tribe was employed. Having performed his incantations, he told them they might expect
+    immediate deliverance; that he had conjured a deliverer from the sea. Soon there came
+    forth from the water a gigantic turtle, who made his way slowly inland, until he
+    reached the bottom of the hill, which was the home of the tigers. The dangerous
+    animals were just descending from the mountain in a double line, but the moment they
+    caught sight of the mammoth sea-monster, their bodies froze with terror and they were
+    turned to stone. Terrified at the power of the creature he had conjured, the old
+    <i>nagu&aacute;l</i> quickly made use of his most powerful incantation, with the
+    result that the turtle also was transformed into stone. The proof of the truth of the
+    story we saw in the lines of stone tigers on the mountain side and the stone turtle
+    at the foot of the hill, as we rode by.</p>
+    <p>The doctor suggested that it would be well to take a guide with us from San Blas
+    as far as Huilotepec, as there were many side-roads before we reached that town, and
+    that, from there, we would need no help. We followed his suggestion. The road was
+    almost level. It passed through a district covered with a dense growth of brush and
+    thorny trees, except where the land had been plowed for planting corn. In the early
+    evening we saw many birds. Flocks of parrots rose from the trees as we passed by; at
+    one point Manuel shot a little eagle, which fell wounded to the ground. Our guide
+    concluded to carry it on alive. All went well for some time, but at last, with no
+    warning, the bird made a vicious dash, and with its claws tore through the trousers
+    of the guide, making a great gash <a name="page167"
+    id="page167"/>in his leg. The man promptly decided it was better, on
+    the whole, to carry it further dead than living.</p>
+    <p>The doctor turned back at sunset. We reached Huilotepec something before eight,
+    and found it a large pueblo with houses built of bamboo or cane. Here we had a good
+    supper, and dismissing our guide started out, by brilliant moonlight, for the last
+    part of our journey. Shortly beyond the town, the road turned, for a moment, into the
+    river, and after passing for a few rods in the river-bed, struck up again onto the
+    bank. At this place we made a fatal blunder. When the road went down into the river,
+    supposing that we were about to ford, we kept straight across the stream. Finding a
+    road upon the other side we had no suspicion but what we were going well and
+    travelled onward. For a long time we found trails of varying degree of badness.
+    Sometimes the branches formed a complete tangle which, even in the daytime, would
+    have required careful watching. As it was, the faces of the party were well scratched
+    with thorns. Sometimes, we seemed to be on a good road; at others, we had hardly
+    found a trail. At one place we passed a ranch&mdash;Corral de San Diego. A host of
+    barking dogs announced our coming, and we cried out to the old man living there to
+    tell us the road. His directions were not clear, but in attempting to follow them, we
+    retraced our trail, and then struck into another road. Keeping to it until we really
+    could not follow it further for the tangle, we retraced our steps until we came to a
+    cart-road crossing that on which we were. We started first to the right upon this;
+    then, concluding we were wrong, turned about and went the other way. We soon found
+    ourselves off the road again, and travelling blindly through the brush. Coming to a
+    round patch of clear sand, to which the trail on which we were seemed to have led us,
+    we could find no way out. Convinced that we were hopelessly lost, we camped out upon
+    <a name="page168" id="page168"/> the sand for
+    the night. Fortunately we had a little corn with us which we gave to the horses,
+    after which we tied them to the trees. As we lay upon the sand in the bright
+    moonlight, we could hear the dashing of the sea waves not far away. The heat was
+    intolerable and the mosquitoes venomous. We secured no rest, and, at the first signs
+    of day, were ready for our start. The two boys went out to hunt a rabbit, but
+    returned with most discouraging reports. While they were absent, Don Anselmo and
+    myself were left in camp. Suddenly he cried out that our horses were running away;
+    such was really the case. The last one was just disappearing in the brush and Anselmo
+    started after them, leaving me to keep the camp. When the other two returned, they,
+    too, started in pursuit. After a hard chase, the animals were captured and brought
+    back. By seven we had mounted and were on our way. We retraced our trail of the night
+    before, going back to the cart-road. A little before eight we came upon a ranch, the
+    Ranchito del Boca del Rio. Here we asked our way, and found that we were still as far
+    from San Mateo, as when we left Huilotepec the night before. Eating a light
+    breakfast, we secured a guide who took us, by the shortest way across the river, back
+    to the main trail for San Mateo, where he left us. The road was long and hot and
+    sandy. Our horses could hardly keep up a decent walk. It seemed that we would never
+    reach the town. More than an hour before we arrived at the town, we encountered
+    little ranches belonging to it. Everywhere we saw flocks of sheep, cows and horses.
+    Curiously, the Juaves have always had herds, since our first records of them, but
+    they eat no meat. The country was more tropical than any through which we had passed.
+    Clumps of palmtrees were to be seen here and there. Pools of standing water, where
+    horses and cattle stood cooling themselves, were frequent. The people whom<a name="page169" id="page169"/> we met wore little
+    clothing. Men frequently had nothing but the breech-clout and hat. Women wore a
+    skirt, but no upper garment. Children up to ten and twelve years of age ran naked.
+    Reaching San Mateo at twelve o'clock, we found the village excited at our
+    non-appearance. Our <i>carretero</i> had arrived long before with our luggage. He had
+    told the <i>presidente</i> of our intended coming, and men from the town had been
+    sent through the by-roads to seek for us. The town lies on a level stretch of sand,
+    and the houses are built of canes and thatched with palm. Most of the trees in the
+    village are palms; some, cocoa palms. The <i>plaza</i> is a large open space. On one
+    side of it is the church, of stone and brick; on another side is the town-building
+    made of brick, covered with plaster, and consisting of three portions,&mdash;the
+    <i>presidencia, curato</i>, and jail. A brick-paved corridor, roofed above, runs
+    before the whole building. We were given the jail and <i>presidencia</i> with the
+    corridor. Here hammocks and a bed of palm stalks were prepared for us, and orders
+    issued that eggs and <i>tortillas</i> should be brought us. The Juaves raise no
+    crops. They are fishermen, and their food and living come from the sea. Their dried
+    fish and shrimps, and the salt, which they make from the brine-soaked bottoms of
+    dried lagoons, go far and wide through the country, and for these they get in trade
+    the corn, coffee, chocolate, and raw cotton which they need. We have already spoken
+    of their cattle, which is a source of income, though, as stated before, the Juaves
+    rarely eat meat food.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image044a.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>JUAVE INDIANS; SAN MATEO DEL MAR</b></p>
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image044b.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>JUAVE FISHERMAN: SAN MATEO DEL MAR</b></p>
+<br />
+
+    <p>The Juaves present a well-defined physical type. They are of medium stature or
+    tall. Their noses are the largest and most prominent in indian Mexico, and are boldly
+    aquiline. The men are rarely idle; even as they walk, they carry with them their
+    netting, or spindle with which they spin cord for making nets. It seems to be law,
+    and is cer<a name="page170" id="page170"/>
+    tainly custom, that persons coming to the <i>plaza</i> are expected to be more fully
+    dressed than when travelling on the road or when in their homes. Usually white cotton
+    drawers and shirt are worn in the <i>plaza</i>; outside, practically nothing but the
+    breech-clout.</p>
+    <p>There is an interesting commerce carried on in Juave towns by Zapotec traders from
+    Juchitan. As might be expected, this is entirely in the hands of women. Some women
+    make two journeys weekly between the two towns. They come in ox-carts, with loads of
+    corn, fodder, coffee, chocolate, cotton and the like. These they trade or sell. When
+    they return to Juchitan, they carry with them a lot of salted and dried fish,
+    shrimps, salt and eggs. Upon these expeditions the whole family accompanies the
+    woman; the traveling is done almost entirely by night. These Zapotec women are shrewd
+    at bargaining. They must be doing a paying business. It was interesting to see the
+    primitive devices for weighing. The scales consisted of two tin pans of equal size
+    and weight hung from a balance beam. The only weight was a stone weighing a pound. In
+    case a Juave woman wished to buy a quarter-of-a-pound of cotton, the procedure was as
+    follows: The weight was put into one pan of the scales and a pound of cotton weighed
+    out into the other; the weight was then removed and the cotton divided, so as to
+    balance in the two pans; one of the pans was then emptied, and the remaining cotton
+    again divided, with the result that a quarter-of-a-pound of cotton had been
+    weighed.</p>
+    <p>One curious feature, which we had not seen elsewhere, but which Dr. Castle had
+    warned us we should find, was the nightly guard set upon us. As we lay upon our beds
+    at night, looking out upon the white sand in front of us, we could see, by the
+    moonlight, at some little distance, a circle of eight or ten men who spent the night
+    sleeping within <a name="page171" id="page171"/>
+    call. Another striking feature was the music which we heard in the late evening and
+    early morning. In the early morning, five o'clock or earlier, and at sunset, there
+    was service in the church. Later on, at eight, there was again singing in the
+    churchyard, lasting until quite a late hour. One evening, on investigating, we found
+    eight or ten men kneeling on the sand before the church door, singing in the
+    moonlight. They were practicing for the procession and special service of the second
+    Friday of Lent.</p>
+    <p>The water-life of the Juaves is at once picturesque and curiously tame. The men
+    spend much of their time on or in the water. They make great dugout canoes from large
+    tree trunks. There are usually no paddles, but poles are used to propel the craft
+    sluggishly over the waters of the lagoon. Few of the men can swim. The fish are
+    chiefly caught with nets, and both seines and throw nets are used. The lagoons are
+    said to abound in alligators, and the men, when fishing, generally carry with them
+    spears with long iron points which are said to be used for protection against attacks
+    of these reptiles. Great respect is shown the alligator, and curious superstitions
+    prevail regarding it.</p>
+    <p>Between San Mateo and the nearest of the great lagoons, the country ceases to be
+    level and is covered with sand dunes. On these dunes there are great numbers of hares
+    of a species peculiar to the locality. They make excellent eating, and Manuel kept
+    our larder supplied with fresh meat, which was welcome, and which we could not
+    otherwise have had among these non-meat-eating folk. An old Zapotec woman, seventy
+    years of age, with snowy hair and gentle face, was deputed by the town authorities to
+    do our cooking. Her relatives live in Juchitan, and why she had chosen to live among
+    these people I do not know. She took a motherly interest in all our party. Nothing
+    was too good for us. She spent her whole time in hunting supplies and cooking and
+    <a name="page172" id="page172"/> serving food.
+    Not only did she insist on all our purchases being supplied at cheapest rates, but
+    her own charge for help and service was ridiculously small. From early morning until
+    late at night the poor old soul was busy in our behalf. On our leaving, she took my
+    hands between her own, and kissing them, begged that we would send her a picture as a
+    remembrance.</p>
+    <p>The road to Tehuantepec at night was one of no adventure. We were impressed with
+    the great number of families travelling in ox-carts over these roads in the cool
+    night air. It was a custom and habit of which we had before no realization. It lacked
+    but ten minutes of one o'clock when finally we rode up to the hotel in Tehuantepec.
+    From the hostler we learned that every room was full,&mdash;five persons in some
+    cases sleeping in a single room. So we were compelled to lie down upon the porch
+    outside until the morning.</p>
+    <hr style="width: 65%;" />
+    <h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIV" id="CHAPTER_XIV"></a>CHAPTER XIV</h2>
+    <a name="page173" id="page173"/>
+    <h2>ON THE MAIN HIGH-ROAD</h2>
+    <h3>(1899)</h3>
+    <p>After a day or two of rest, we started from Tehuantepec upon our return to Oaxaca.
+    For the first time, we were to follow the usually travelled high-road. Our hearts
+    failed us, as we thought of thus neglecting the lovely land of the Mixes, but it was
+    on our program to see the Chontals. Starting at seven, we lost a little time in
+    having a photograph of our party taken as we left the city, so that it was really
+    8:15 before we were on our way. Our plaster had been sent by <i>carreta</i> to
+    Xalapa. We had a hot, hot, hot ride over a heavy, difficult sand road. At least half
+    a dozen times we forded the Tehuantepec river, and everywhere at places which would
+    have justified the name, Xalapa, "the sandy water." Finally, arriving at Xalapa at
+    four o'clock, we found it a large town, of the usual hot, dusty Zapotec kind. The
+    authorities bestirred themselves vigorously to locate us in comfortable quarters,
+    with an old lady of regal appearance and dignity. From the start, we feared that this
+    royal appearance and dignity would be paid for, but the opportunity for comfort was
+    not to be neglected. One of the houses of her royal domain was vacated for our use,
+    and two good cots and a hammock were put at our disposal. The supper was abundant,
+    and capital in quality, and there was plenty of food for the horses. Strolling down
+    to the river after supper we found it broad but very shallow; it did not reach our
+    knees at any point, when we waded across it; the bottom was, as we imagined it <a name="page174" id="page174"/> would be from the
+    name, moving sand. After a bath in the much too shallow stream for swimming, we
+    returned refreshed to our comfortable beds. As anticipated, we found the bill, when
+    presented in the morning, truly regal; after some demur, our queenly hostess reduced
+    it slightly, but, even so, we were reminded of the summer-resorts of our own
+    country.</p>
+    <p>Tequixistlan, perhaps the largest of the Chontal towns, we found without an
+    official head. While we were in Tehuantepec the <i>jefe</i> received notice of his
+    father's death. This notice had been duly sent to all the villages and towns within
+    the district, and, on a certain day, the <i>presidente</i> and other chief officers
+    of the different pueblos gathered at Tehuantepec to express their sympathy by
+    speeches and to present flowers to the official. It was for this errand that the
+    <i>presidente</i> of Tequixistlan had gone to the <i>cabecera</i>. Had he been at
+    home, perhaps we would have had no difficulty, but as it was we found the government
+    disjointed and nerveless. Constant nagging and harrying were necessary in carrying
+    out our wishes. The town itself was not bad. It stands upon a sort of terrace, at a
+    little height above the neighboring river. The town-house is a long building,
+    occupying the whole upper end of the large rectangular <i>plaza</i>; at the lower end
+    is the fine church and <i>curato</i>. Along the sides were <i>tiendas</i>, school,
+    etc., well built adobes and plastered over with tinted plaster. Behind the church
+    beyond the river rises a handsome background of mountains. The long corridor in front
+    of the municipal-house was fine and broad, with a high roof and brick pavement.
+    Oleanders bloomed before this corridor. The view from it was fine, and the air cool
+    there even in the middle of the day. We accordingly took possession of it, working
+    and sleeping there. So far as personal comfort was concerned, we were well cared for.
+    We had good <a name="page175" id="page175"/>
+    meals, comfortable cots, plenty of food for the horses, but, as we have said, the
+    work lagged, and it was only with the greatest difficulty that we could accomplish
+    it.</p>
+    <p>There is little distinctive about the Chontals, as we saw them. The women dress
+    much like the Zapotec women in the neighboring towns. The men present nothing notable
+    in dress. Outside the <i>plaza</i>, the houses were built of light materials, and
+    resembled the ordinary cane-walled, thatched huts of the Zapotecs. The people
+    appeared to be badly mixed, and this not only with white, but also with negro blood.
+    Nevertheless, as we worked upon subject after subject, a fairly defined type seemed
+    to grow upon us. We could see that the Chontals are tall, with rather well-shaped
+    faces, though somewhat high cheek-bones, with light complexions, and with wavy or
+    curly hair. When the work was finished, we had great difficulty in securing carriers
+    to bear our burdens to San Bartolo. Enormous prices were demanded, and at last, angry
+    over the attempted extortion, we threatened to leave all our stuff behind us, and
+    hold the town responsible, reporting them to the authorities when we should reach
+    Oaxaca, demanding that damages should be collected. These threats had the desired
+    effect. The <i>secretario</i>, who had been the only member of the town government
+    displaying energy in our behalf, promised by all that was sacred that our goods
+    should be delivered promptly at San Bartolo; that if they were not already there on
+    our arrival, we might safely arrange for further transportation from that town,
+    convinced that the goods would come before we left.</p>
+    <p>That we might not be too much delayed by this palaver regarding carriers, I had
+    started the balance of the party ahead, and rode on alone after them. They had left
+    at 10:15, and we all had a hot, dry, dusty, thirsty mountain ride until five o'clock
+    in the afternoon, when we reached the <a name="page176"
+    id="page176"/> ranch, Las Vacas. It consisted of a dozen houses. We
+    rode to the last one in the place, which consisted of brush and leafy branches, and
+    had an enclosed <i>corral</i> adjoining it, where we asked for lodging. The owner was
+    a young Zapotec, who, with his wife, was strikingly neat and clean. A little girl of
+    seven was the only other member of the family. The house had but a single room, but
+    there was a <i>coro</i>, or cane platform, and loft. Having fed our horses and eaten
+    our own supper, I mounted to the loft, despite the advice of all the members of the
+    party, who predicted smoke, heat, mosquitoes, fleas and other trials. They stayed
+    below. There is no question that they fared worse from all the sources mentioned than
+    myself. The woman worked until midnight, making <i>tortillas</i> and cooking chicken
+    for us to carry as luncheon on the road. We had started by four in the morning, and
+    pushed along over a mountain road. The first portion of the road was well-watered,
+    but afterward it became hot, dry, and stony. Having gained the pass looking down upon
+    the valley, we could see, at its further side, lying on a terrace, the pueblo of San
+    Bartolo, stretching out in a long line near the front of a mighty mountain, upon
+    which plainly our way would pass. It was almost noon when we reached the
+    municipal-house, and found that our carriers had already arrived, and left the
+    luggage. Here things were really quite as bad as at Tequixistlan, but here
+    fortunately we had no work to do. The town was Zapotec. One might suppose, from its
+    being upon the main high-road, that they would be accustomed to see strangers. We
+    have hardly found a population at once so stupid and timid. It was with great
+    difficulty that we found food to eat. Here we had to pay for beds (made of sticks
+    tied together), belonging to the municipality, a thing which we had never done at any
+    other town in Mexico.</p>
+    <p>The people wear curious and characteristic garments.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image045.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>VIEW FROM OUR CORRIDOR; SAN BARTOLO</b></p>
+<br />
+<a name="page177" id="page177"/>
+
+    <p>All the stuff used for clothing is woven in the town, and not only the women's
+    <i>camisas</i>, but the men's <i>camisas</i> and trousers, are decorated with
+    elaborate designs&mdash;birds, animals, and geometrical figures&mdash;worked in
+    various colors. Even in purchasing examples of these clothes, we were compelled to
+    make a vigorous display of our civil and religious orders. After some bickering, we
+    arranged for carriers to San Carlos, which is the <i>cabecera</i> of the district.
+    Starting by moonlight, at two o'clock in the morning, we struck out over the enormous
+    mountain mass to which we have already referred. Roads in the Zapotec country do not
+    go directly up the hillside, as in the land of the Mixes, but zigzag by gentle
+    diagonals up the slopes. The road was largely composed of jagged rock; two hours and
+    fifteen minutes were necessary for the ascent; the descent was bad enough, but a
+    distinct improvement. At one place, however, we wandered from the main-travelled
+    road, and found ourselves in an abandoned portion of the road, full of great holes
+    which were filled with drifted fallen leaves, so that their presence was not betrayed
+    until our horses fell into them. The latter part of this descent was slippery, being
+    over hard stone, which was worn almost to a glassy smoothness by the passage of many
+    hoofs. A little before reaching Manteca, as we looked down from the height, we saw an
+    immense train of pack-mules coming. In the good old days, before there were
+    railroads, such trains as this were frequent. From Manteca the road penetrated into
+    contracting valleys, until finally it might, with propriety, be called a ca&ntilde;on
+    road. At half past eight we reached San Carlos, a mean town with no <i>meson</i> or
+    other regular stopping-place. We left the horses under the shady trees with the old
+    farrier. While we rested and waited for breakfast, I called upon the <i>jefe
+    politico</i>, who had received several communications from me, and had become
+    interested in my work. Our luggage <a name="page178"
+    id="page178"/>was all at his office, and he promptly made
+    arrangements for its further transportation. At breakfast, we received the cheerful
+    news that Mr. Lang's horse had the lockjaw and showed signs of dying. On inspection,
+    this proved to be quite true; the poor animal was in great pain, and could eat
+    nothing, though making every effort to do so. Our first thought was a shot in the
+    head to put it out of misery, but the old farrier wished to try a <i>remedio</i>. He
+    did his best, and it looked as if the animal might recover; it was plain, however,
+    that he could not be used again that afternoon. Accordingly, an extra horse was
+    rented for Mr. Lang's use. The remainder of the party was started on the road at
+    1:50, while I waited to give the <i>remedio</i> a chance to operate and the beast an
+    opportunity to rest. At three I started, leading the sick horse. We had a fine ride
+    in the cool of the evening, over a mountain road past the little ranch El Quemado,
+    beyond which we found an immense ascent. When we reached the summit, it was fast
+    darkening, and I pressed on as rapidly as the led horse would permit. Finally, I
+    reached Escondido at seven. Several large parties of packers, with their trains of
+    mules, had already settled for the night; camp-fires were burning. Here and there
+    drinking had been going on, and there was noise of loud laughter, singing and
+    dancing. Our party was already eating supper when I arrived, and my own meal had been
+    ordered. Shelter was supplied us adjoining the house, where we spread our blankets
+    and spent a comfortable night. We were late in starting, and were not upon the road
+    until seven in the morning. We found the high-road most uninteresting. For long
+    distances we descended, passing a ranch and emerging finally into a deep, hot gorge.
+    By the time we reached Pichones we were tired, hot and thirsty. There, however, we
+    could get no water, for man or beast, for love or money; suffering with<a name="page179" id="page179"/> thirst, the road
+    seemed long to the river near Totolapa, where we refreshed ourselves with water, but
+    a heavier road than ever had to be traversed. Much of the way we followed the
+    stream-bed, fording repeatedly; the remainder was through deep sand and over rolling
+    pebbles. Passing Juanico, on a high bank overlooking the river, at noonday, we were
+    delighted to strike upon a rock road, high on the river bank. Keeping to this trail,
+    passing from plantations of bananas lying at the river level below us and catching
+    many pretty views of valley and of mountain, we at last reached Totolapa, completely
+    worn out with the journey and the heat. Here we rested until the heat of the day
+    should be past.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image046a.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>OUR PARTY LEAVING TEHUANTEPEC</b></p>
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image046b.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>ZAPOTEC WOMEN AND GIRLS, TLACOLULA</b></p>
+<br />
+
+    <p>We had expected at this town to secure a muleteer, as the one we hired from San
+    Carlos had agreed to come only to this town. Here, too, we had expected to rent a new
+    horse for Mr. Lang. Our muleteer, however, was much taken with the party, and
+    declared that he should hire himself to continue with us to Tlacolula. We quickly
+    arranged with him, and at four o'clock prepared to leave. The sick horse was then at
+    its worst; it had lain down, and for a time we believed it was really dead; it was
+    out of the question for it to go further; so, calling one of the villagers, I told
+    him that he might have the horse, and if there was any possibility of curing, it, he
+    should do what might be necessary.</p>
+    <p>From four to seven it was a tiresome climb, largely through stream-beds to
+    Carvajal. It is a large <i>rancho</i>, but we stopped at the first house we came to,
+    a miserable place, where, however, we got coffee, bread, beans and eggs, and some
+    mats for beds, which we laid out upon the ground, under the open sky. Taking early
+    coffee and <i>tortillas</i>, we were again mounted at four and on our way. It was the
+    last ascent. The moon was shining brightly, and we could see that the road followed
+    the edge of a fine gorge. When <a name="page180"
+    id="page180"/>we once reached the summit, there was no further
+    descent to make. We were on the high, flat, table-land of Oaxaca, and from here to
+    the capital city of the state, the road is level, and passes through a rich
+    agricultural district. Passing San Dionisio at seven, we pressed on as rapidly as
+    possible to Tlacolula, where we arrived before noon, ready for the good meals and
+    comfortable quarters which we well knew awaited us there.</p>
+    <p>Tlacolula is a large town, in the midst of a dusty valley. Its houses are large,
+    rectangular constructions, well built of poles, with fine thatched roofs. They stand
+    in yards, which are enclosed by fences of organ-pipe cactus. The people dress well,
+    and at almost every house they own an ox-cart and a yoke of animals. While
+    photographing there that afternoon, we suggested that we wanted a group of girls and
+    women in native dress. "Very well; I will take you to the house, where you can get
+    one." Arrived there, the policeman at once led out five women and four children, whom
+    he placed in line. After the picture was taken, we expressed our satisfaction and
+    surprise that so good a group had been so readily secured at a single house. "Oh,
+    sir," he replied, "we struck a lucky time; there is a funeral going on there."</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image047.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>IN THE HOT VALLEY; CUICATLAN</b></p>
+<br />
+
+    <hr style="width: 65%;" />
+    <h2><a name="CHAPTER_XV" id="CHAPTER_XV"></a>CHAPTER XV</h2>
+    <a name="page181" id="page181"/>
+    <h2>CUICATLAN</h2>
+    <h3>(1899)</h3>
+    <p>Between Tehuacan and Oaxaca the railroad passes through a low, deep valley which
+    is ever hot. Few people on the train pass through this valley without feeling its
+    depressing influence. It would seem that travelers would hardly stop at stations
+    within its limits, unless impelled by actual necessity. The most important of the
+    towns in this valley is Cuicatlan. Little of it is to be seen from the railroad, but
+    in reality it is a notably picturesque village.</p>
+    <p>It is the <i>cabecera</i> of a district in which dwell three most interesting
+    tribes&mdash;the Cuicatecs, Chinantecs, and Mazatecs. We had time to visit only the
+    nearest of the Cuicatec towns. Cuicatlan itself is situated near one side of a
+    valley, through which runs a considerable stream. The distant bank rises in two
+    magnificent mountain masses. The nearer bank, at the very base of which the town
+    nestles on a series of little hills, rises into almost sheer precipices of purple
+    conglomerate. These cliffs are hundreds of feet high, and are, apparently, due to a
+    gigantic landslide. The mass which fell must have measured fully two miles in length,
+    and still lies, broken and heaped up, at the base of the cliffs. The face of the
+    cliffs, and the fallen masses of rock at its base, are cut into narrow gullies and
+    gaps by water. The town consists of several clusters of houses, scaled along the
+    slopes of little hillocks and settled into the spaces between them. Gigantic cactuses
+    surround the town, and cocoa palms rise to great heights within it.<a name="page182" id="page182"/></p>
+    <p>It is customary for travelers to emphasize the slowness of the Mexicans. Either we
+    have been exceptionally fortunate, or the reputation is largely undeserved. We have
+    been rarely delayed by sluggish action. Here, however, we found a <i>jefe</i> who
+    would surely satisfy the most complaining. He was mild in manner, gentle in speech,
+    fond of brilliant plans and schemes, all of which, however, were to be put in
+    operation to-morrow and not to-day. It was with difficulty that we impressed upon him
+    our necessity. We told him that we wanted animals to carry us to Papalo. In reply, he
+    told us that Papalo was but a poor town, and he outlined a journey the traveling
+    alone in which would occupy some eight or ten days. When we assured him that we had
+    no time for such an enterprise, he said that it would be much better for the towns to
+    come to us in Cuicatlan. He proposed sending to-morrow to those towns, and assured us
+    that, at the end of a week's time, we would have all the subjects we needed. So, when
+    we suggested that this, too, was loss of time, he had other brilliant plans, all
+    quite as useless. With the utmost difficulty we finally succeeded in getting him to
+    arrange for animals to go to Papalo. From the very start, the road was up-hill.
+    Passing first through a section covered with a magnificent growth of tree cactuses of
+    two species, in fine fruit and flower, we found the vegetation varied as we mounted,
+    and at last came up among the pines. There was a great variety of landscape and
+    geological formation. Purple-red conglomerate, with horizontal layers weathered into
+    massive forms; granitic schistose rocks, over which we later passed, gave their
+    peculiar scenic outlines. We climbed steadily for fully four hours, and then looked
+    down, along a gently sloping hill trail, to our town, perched upon a slightly lower
+    hill. Just at the edge of the town, we passed a gang of men and boys at work, making
+    a level platform<a name="page183" id="page183"/>
+    for the new <i>plaza</i> and town-house. We congratulated ourselves that we should
+    have no difficulty, here, in finding subjects. The town claimed three thousand
+    population. Many of them were certainly away upon their fields and ranches, scattered
+    through the mountains, and working <i>fincas</i> for wealthy landowners. The town
+    itself is picturesque in the extreme. Notable among its features is the ruined
+    church, the roof of which has fallen in; the walls still stand, bare and broken, but
+    the decorations, some richly carved and gilded, are still unmoved within the
+    demolished edifice. The damage was recent, and represented a double
+    catastrophe&mdash;lightning and earthquake.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image048.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>CACTUS; CIUCATLAN</b></p>
+<br />
+
+    <p>We could not begin work until the <i>mozo</i> came with the instruments. Finally,
+    at four o'clock in the afternoon, we began measuring with no great difficulty. Before
+    night, fifteen subjects had passed through our hands and one bust had been made. Even
+    when we arrived, at midday, it was too cold for us to stay with comfort in the
+    town-house, though it was hot enough outside in the sunshine. When night came, it was
+    bitter cold, and we went to bed early in hope of keeping warm, a hope without
+    foundation. Early the next morning, we were ready for our work. Every one had
+    disappeared, except those whom we had measured the night before. We requested the
+    town authorities to bring in subjects. A few stragglers were dragged in and measured,
+    and some pictures taken. Notwithstanding the poor way in which they had done their
+    work, the policemen struck, declaring that they would not bring others until they had
+    been paid. It was plain the town needed a lesson. We promptly paid the demand made
+    upon us, and, then, calling the <i>presidente</i> and the <i>secretario</i>, we told
+    them that we must have a receipt for the payment to show the <i>jefe</i>. We said
+    that such a thing was unheard of; that, for town officials to demand pay, before they
+    <a name="page184" id="page184"/> would agree to
+    obey the order of their chief, was mutiny. At first they flatly refused to give the
+    receipt, but after a little consultation were anxious to return the money, and
+    threats were freely made to throw the whole police-force into jail. We said that this
+    was not our desire; we were surprised at the demand, but, having met it, we insisted
+    upon having our receipt. A meeting of the town authorities being held to consider the
+    matter, our request was again refused, but attention was called to the fact that some
+    subjects were waiting outside to be measured and photographed. I thereupon refused to
+    measure or photograph any person until my demand had been met. I showed them,
+    clearly, the position in which they had placed themselves; I stated that when they
+    had done a wrong, and a stranger demanded an official statement of the case, their
+    duty was simple and clear. By this time my own party was in arms; photographer,
+    plaster-worker, Manuel, all were scared. They insisted that our throats would be cut
+    that night. They called attention to the ugly manner and black looks of the town
+    authorities. They declared that we had better flee, while yet there was opportunity;
+    they insisted that they had not left comfortable homes to be murdered in cold blood;
+    they begged that I would, at least, retreat from the position taken, and consent to
+    measure the subjects who were waiting. I assured them that it was far more important
+    to teach the town a lesson regarding their duty to their higher officials, than to
+    measure a few indians. Finally, after hours of uncertainty, black looks, mutterings,
+    and refusals, the town capitulated, and the receipt was in my possession. Having
+    gained my point, I called the attention of the town officials to the bearings of the
+    case. I emphasized their duty to the <i>jefe</i>. They knew, quite well, that it was
+    out of place to demand money for obeying his order; I stated that I appreciated
+    whatever work the policemen<a name="page185"
+    id="page185"/> might have done, and that, in due season, I might have
+    recognized it by a gift, but that demands were quite another thing. I showed them how
+    important it was, that, when trouble rose between them and a stranger, they should
+    furnish any statement of the case he might, in justice, ask. Having stated the matter
+    fully, I consented to receive back the money, and tore up the receipt much to their
+    relief.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image049.jpg" /></p>
+<br />
+
+    <p>Still the work went slowly. No one was left in town but the officials and some
+    women. The latter locked and barred their doors, at the approach of any of the town
+    authorities, and neither threats to burn their houses above their heads nor bribes
+    would bring them forth. It was only after three days of hard work that eighty men and
+    twenty-five women were secured. By that time, it was plain that the other men were
+    safely out of reach, and we concluded that naught remained but to return to
+    Cuicatlan, to complete our work with representatives from other towns. This we did,
+    although we found our <i>jefe</i> still gentle, mild, and slow.</p>
+    <p>Once in the hot valley, we concluded that we might as well see more of it. Leaving
+    Cuicatlan at noon, a few minutes' ride brought us to the station at Tecomavaca,
+    perhaps the hottest of the hot valley towns. Within it are ruins which have been
+    strangely neglected by all tourists and investigators. Probably, the great heat has
+    killed whatever little enthusiasm may have been kindled in those who have seen aught
+    of these ruins. When we reached the station, in the hottest portion of the day, the
+    valley seemed to glow; all looked hot and desolate. There were no <i>mozos</i> to
+    help in carrying baggage, though the town was fully half a mile from the station,
+    behind bare, hot, sandy hills. It is one of the poorest and meanest of the Mexican
+    towns. A dreary <i>plaza</i> is surrounded by miserable adobe, or adobe-plastered,
+    buildings. The only edifices that looked <a name="page186"
+    id="page186"/>clean and neat were the school, jail, and town-house.
+    We found shelter at a sort of a <i>meson</i>, where we could get no supper until
+    nine, or possibly till ten. Rather than go inside the rooms, we took possession of
+    the corridor, and there, with two cots, a table, and the floor, lay down to rest. But
+    not to sleep! The town, small as it was, had twenty cases of <i>la grippe</i>. The
+    woman of the house where we were stopping was one of these. Her husband, who came
+    back from the mountains long after dark, appeared to have an affection and solicitude
+    regarding her, which, under other circumstances, might have been quite touching, but
+    which, then, was thoroughly exasperating. While he cooked his own supper, made
+    chocolate for her, and heated hot water for her use, he kept passing back and forth,
+    between the kitchen and the sick chamber, until later than two o'clock in the
+    morning. The noise which he made, and these repeated movements, kept us all awake the
+    whole night long. The night was hot and close, and new and unknown insects troubled
+    us extremely. We were glad to be dressed and mounted, the following morning. Riding
+    across the river, we made the ascent to the summit, on which were the ruins of
+    Tecomavaca Viejo. The ascent was so abrupt that our horses were repeatedly compelled
+    to stop for breath. The trail passed through cactuses, and spiny shrubs and trees,
+    which tore our clothes more than all we had endured during weeks of travel. The ruins
+    are unquestionably old. The hilly slope presents a succession of terraced platforms,
+    one behind the other, at different heights. The rock walls between these are banked
+    up and faced with rock, coated with plaster and mud; there are many pyramids and
+    mounds; there are also curious subterranean, stone-faced, graves. Many curious disks
+    of stone were found, a foot or eighteen inches in diameter, and three or four inches
+    thick; these were all reddish grit, and had<a name="page187"
+    id="page187"/> plainly been piled one upon another to form pillars.
+    Along the forward edge of some of the terraced platforms, we found the lower discs of
+    some columns still in place. While the amount of work, represented in these cut
+    terraces, banked rocks, and subterranean constructions, impressed us greatly, it was
+    difficult to get a clear idea of the relationship of the parts.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image050a.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>CACTUS NEAR CUICATLAN</b></p>
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image050b.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>VIEW IN A TLAXCALAN BARRANCA</b></p>
+<br />
+
+    <p>When, however, we found ourselves at the station, waiting for the train, we looked
+    back across the river to our three ruin-crowned hills. Then, for the first time,
+    having visited the spot, we could clearly make out the relations. Three natural
+    mountains or hills, the greater, central one flanked on both sides by lesser, had
+    been utilized by the old builders; the natural rock masses had been cut and walled,
+    until they practically formed masses of construction, rising terrace behind terrace,
+    to the very summit. When the terraces were entire, with their temple-crowned
+    pyramids, and with embankments and walls in full repair, these vast constructions
+    must have been indeed impressive.</p>
+    <hr style="width: 65%;" />
+    <h2><a name="CHAPTER_XVI" id="CHAPTER_XVI"></a>CHAPTER XVI</h2>
+    <a name="page188" id="page188"/>
+    <h2>IN TLAXCALAN TOWNS</h2>
+    <h3>(1900)</h3>
+    <p>A street-car line, running for most of the distance down hill, connects Santa Ana
+    with Tlaxcala, the towns being separated by seven miles. When making this little
+    journey to Tlaxcala in January, 1897, we noticed in the car with us, a stout, purely
+    indian man, who seemed anxious to engage us in conversation. Knowing a few words of
+    English, he was particularly anxious to practice them. He called our attention to the
+    various villages, streams, and mountains in the country through which we were
+    passing, and took delight in analyzing the native names and explaining their
+    meanings. When we were returning in the afternoon, we met a gentleman who had been in
+    the same car with us in the morning, and we inquired regarding our indian
+    acquaintance. He told us that he was a full-blooded indian, whose native tongue was
+    Aztec, and who lived in Santa Ana. Being the child of poor parents, the state had
+    assisted in his education; he was now studying law in the city of Puebla. He was also
+    a musician, and on this occasion had been upon his way to a public appointment, where
+    he was to sing.</p>
+    <p>Later, in Puebla, we called upon this gentleman, whose name we found was Quechol,
+    meaning a bird with a crooked neck, perhaps a flamingo. He was interested in our
+    study, and said we ought some time to visit the indian towns of his people upon the
+    slopes of Malintzi. In January, 1900, having been delayed in our plans, we decided to
+    spend a <a name="page189" id="page189"/>few
+    days in Tlaxcala, and secured his company. Our preparations were made at Santa Ana;
+    at the home of his parents we were hospitably welcomed, and chocolate and bread were
+    furnished, before we started on our journey. While this refreshment was preparing, we
+    visited the old church, in front of which stood an aged cypress tree, hung with gray
+    moss and blazing with red flowers. We also entered some of the houses, where, on
+    domestic looms, the <i>serapes</i> for which the town is famous are manufactured. We
+    visited also a private school for girls, established by a Se&ntilde;or Barela, who is
+    noted as the first to introduce the industry of weaving wool into this community.
+    While the memory of this gentleman is held in high esteem by this people, that of his
+    wife is by no means savory. It seems that she was an avaricious, vain and selfish
+    woman, with no sympathy for his schemes for the betterment of the people. Her feeling
+    was well known, and she died heartily hated by all. When the time came for her
+    burial, the grave was prepared, and her body placed within it. But the earth twice
+    refused to receive the corpse. It was then carried to to the Sawapa, near by, and
+    thrown into its waters. The stream overflowed its banks, and tossed the body upon the
+    ground; again the effort was made to thus dispose of it, but again it was thrown upon
+    the shore. It was then suggested that it be carried to "the Cuezcomate," an extinct
+    geyser-crater, famous through all the country, and popularly believed to be the mouth
+    of hell; when the body was thrown into this opening, it is said the devils were seen
+    to swarm upward to receive it.</p>
+    <p>It was almost noon as our little party started on foot in the direction of
+    Malintzi. Our indian friend, his brother, a white friend, our photographer, our
+    Mexican boy and ourself, made up the party, and we were followed by three
+    <i>mozos</i> on foot carrying supplies of food. We struck out over a sandy <a name="page190" id="page190"/>plain, where the foot
+    sunk deep into dry sand, until we finally reached a well-built wall of stone,
+    considered in the district a notable piece of engineering. It was constructed to turn
+    the course of a little stream which, in times of flood, has frequently done damage to
+    the town. From here, our trail led us on through the sandy pine-scrub, broken now and
+    then by narrow gullies, called <i>barrancas</i>, with almost vertical sides. In every
+    case, we were obliged to descend into these gullies and climb out upon the other
+    side. After one and a half hours of walking we reached the village of San Pedro,
+    where we stopped for dinner. The two Americans accompanying us lay down upon the
+    ground, completely tired out, and were fast asleep within five minutes. Manuel
+    assisted the local cook in preparing dinner, while we talked with visitors until the
+    meal was ready. The houses of San Pedro are well constructed of stone, set in adobe,
+    and have well-thatched roofs. The granaries, or <i>cuezcomates</i>, are of unusual
+    size and well built. They range from six or eight feet in height to twelve or more,
+    and are shaped like great urns, open at the top, which is protected by a thatch,
+    generally two-pitched. The <i>temascals</i> were also unusually well built of stone,
+    and frequently were neatly covered with white plaster. Soon after leaving San Pedro,
+    in the afternoon, we came upon two indian boys digging in the ground. Inquiring what
+    they were doing, we learned that they were hunting honey-ants, and in a moment our
+    whole party was engaged in the same operation. These ants were found some inches
+    below the surface, either singly, or in roundish holes containing half a dozen or
+    more; the abdomen was swelled until it was as round as a pea and as large as a
+    fair-sized currant, and was filled with honey. To get the sweet liquid, one takes the
+    insect by the head or forward body and pressing the honey bag sucks out the contents.
+    It is sweet and rich, with a little twang, as if fer<a
+    name="page191" id="page191"/> mented, and people in the district call
+    it honey-wine. Three quarters of an hour brought us to San Francisco, though we had
+    to go down and up two large <i>barrancas</i> before we reached the town. It was
+    almost sunset when we arrived. Sitting down before the town-house, we sent for the
+    <i>agente</i>. Soon after our arrival the church-bell rang furiously, and the din and
+    clangor was kept up a long time. While waiting for the official, supper was prepared,
+    though we had had some difficulty in arranging for it, and were in doubt as to where
+    we were to spend the night. Before supper was ready, a motley crowd poured into the
+    room in which we sat. One large fellow carried a great sword strapped at his side,
+    another bore a short sword, another a knife, another a large and ancient gun.
+    Probably there were other weapons not in sight. This group of indians was the
+    <i>agente</i> and his <i>guardia</i>. We were objects of suspicion, and much
+    argument, and an abundant supply of <i>huitzatl</i>&mdash;strong drink&mdash;were
+    necessary, before we secured permission to spend the night at the house where we were
+    to have supper. No sooner had this company withdrawn and supper been eaten, than we
+    prepared for bed. One wooden bed, with a mat of rushes, served for Se&ntilde;or
+    Quechol and myself. A second mat, laid on the floor, formed the bed for our four
+    companions. In the morning, we took a walk to Akxotla, where we wished to see an
+    ancient painting. Here we encountered greater suspicion than before, and, after
+    wasting the greater part of the day, accomplished nothing. It is true an indian made
+    a <i>camalpa</i> for us. This is a stringed musical instrument; though the name is
+    Aztec, it is unlikely that it was known before the coming of the Spaniards. Quechol
+    says the word means mouth-harp, coming from the Aztec <i>cam</i>, mouth, and the
+    Spanish <i>harpa,</i> harp. We returned to San Francisco for our dinner, and at four
+    o'clock again started on our journey.</p>
+    <p><a name="page192" id="page192"/> It was after
+    five before we reached San Bartolome. As we drew near the village, we saw a
+    magnificent double rainbow, brilliantly displayed upon the eastern sky against a
+    cloud of almost inky blackness. Looking westward, as we entered the village, we saw
+    the sun setting in a sea of gold, between Popocatapetl and Ixtaccihuatl. Watching
+    this magnificent sunset, we sat down before the old church, and almost instantly a
+    crowd gathered to see what the strangers might want. Don Romualdo, in wandering
+    through the village, found a <i>temascal</i> in use, and hurrying to us, led us to
+    see the method of its use. It is a dome-shaped structure, with an entrance so low
+    that one must crawl upon his hands and knees in entering; it is a sweat-bath, used
+    for cleanliness and health. A quick fire, built inside, heats it thoroughly, after
+    which water is thrown upon the hot stones to produce steam. Four persons, of both
+    sexes, were in the one in question, taking a sweat-bath. When we returned to our
+    companions, sitting before the church, an indian of the village, accosting Don
+    Romualdo, claimed to know him; he also claimed my acquaintance, and reminded me that
+    he had been one of the subjects I had measured two years before in Tlaxcala. A score
+    or more of natives had gathered, in the moonlight, around our party. Having heard
+    some indians singing, we tried to get these to sing some native songs. Only after
+    Louis and Frank had sung some English songs, which were well received, were we able
+    to hear Aztec songs in exchange. After a long delay, we were taken to the schoolhouse
+    for supper and the night, and spent the balance of the evening in taking down a
+    native song, <i>The Tlaxcalteca</i>, and witnessing a dance which accompanied it. A
+    bed was made up for the party by putting various benches and tables together.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image051a.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>TLAXCALAN HOUSE WITH TEMASCAL.</b></p>
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image051b.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>THE MAPAHO IN USE; SAN JUAN ZAUTLA</b></p>
+<br />
+
+    <p>Most of the following day was spent in visiting in the<a
+    name="page193" id="page193"/> village, purchasing idols and in making
+    notes on life and customs; at four o'clock in the afternoon, we set out for Ixcotla.
+    Near sunset we reached the house of Quechol's uncle, old Isidro. Almost eighty years
+    of age, he was straight and lithe as a man of thirty. His house and all the lesser
+    buildings of his place were excellent and in fine condition. A flight of steps led to
+    the flat roof, from which we watched the sunset. In the yard, were half a dozen hives
+    for bees, made from the stocks of the <i>magu&eacute;y</i>. The old man was rich, and
+    owned other houses, but he lives alone, his wife being dead and his daughters
+    married. He is a master of the Aztec, and uses it in its most poetical and figurative
+    style. He does not speak like common men, but his conversation abounds in metaphor
+    and flowers of speech. When once one spoke to him of his lonely and solitary life, he
+    said, "Alone and solitary! No, we are three! There are here myself, my good angel,
+    and my bad angel. I am never alone." Isidro knows all the boundaries of the fields,
+    and can trace all the titles, and is frequently appealed to in land disputes, and
+    even in law cases, is summoned to give testimony. He received us heartily, offered
+    cigarettes and ordered supper. To refresh us, he broke fresh leaves from the
+    orange-tree and steeped them in hot water, sweetening with sugar. After supper, good
+    beds were made upon the floor, with plenty of mats and blankets.</p>
+    <p>We had hardly risen in the morning, when the village was thrown into great
+    excitement by the appearance of a band of soldiers. They had come to arrest a young
+    man supposed to be a leader in the local opposition to Governor Cahuantzi. This
+    opposition was just at fever heat; the election was approaching, and a fierce effort
+    was being made to oust the governor. Forty-four towns were in open rebellion, among
+    them, all of those which we had visited.<a name="page194"
+    id="page194"/> There had been new laws passed regarding land and
+    taxes; these had been resisted. The governor had threatened to send engineers to make
+    new surveys, and to bring land-titles into question. The suspicion and distrust which
+    we had met were doubtless, in large part, due to these measures, and the fear that we
+    were government spies. So great was the discontent, and so openly expressed, that it
+    was said that on the Saturday preceding, in the Plaza of Tlaxcala itself, there was a
+    riot, with cries of derision and contempt, and firing of guns upon the palace. We
+    were told that the nearest <i>haciendero</i>, who was friendly to the governor, was
+    marked for assassination and would be killed within the next few days.</p>
+    <p>Leaving at ten next morning, we skirted Santa Ana, and, having passed through San
+    Pablo, came out upon the banks of the Sawapa. This pretty stream has reputed remedial
+    power, and in May hundreds of people bathe in its waters, to protect themselves
+    against small-pox. As we crossed the great stone bridge, we met a drunken indian who
+    attached himself to our party. Between him and the Mexican members of our party,
+    there arose hostility and an exchange of angry words. To us, personally, he was
+    maudlinly affectionate and respectful. Finally, shaking him off, after climbing a
+    considerable height, we stopped at Belen for a noonday rest and lunch. Dinner having
+    been ordered, we seated ourselves in the shade, when our drunken friend again
+    appeared upon the scene, and in great excitement, begged me to move, as it was
+    certain death for a heated and perspiring person to sit in the shadow of a Peru tree.
+    So persistent was he, that Quehcol and Manuel lost all patience, and ordered the
+    local officials to arrest him.</p>
+    <p>About the middle of the afternoon we were again upon the road; having passed the
+    bare, fortress-like church of<a name="page195"
+    id="page195"/> San Mateo, and descended a long hill, toward evening we
+    crossed a fine bridge over a gorge of black basaltic rock, and shortly reached Santa
+    Maria Atlihuitzia, where we planned to spend the night. Here is a fine old church,
+    with a fa&ccedil;ade absolutely covered with elaborate carving; a square tower rises
+    at one corner. The great altar is a magnificent piece of carving and gold work; the
+    windows are set with thin slabs of onyx. Within, near the church-door, are two
+    paintings representing the scene of mayrtrdom for which the town is famous. These
+    pictures are ancient, and represent some interesting details of indian life at the
+    time of the Conquest. The head-dress and mantle of feathers worn by the old
+    chieftain, the dress and hair-dressing of his wife, war weapons and buildings are all
+    shown. Here, in 1527, the boy Cristoval, child of the great chief Acxotecatl and his
+    wife Apalxitzin, was killed by his father because he would not renounce Christianity.
+    The little lad was only thirteen years of age, and had been trained by Spanish
+    priests. He was the proto-martyr of the new world, and the story of his martyrdom and
+    the early church in Tlaxcala, have been charmingly narrated by Mendieta. Close by the
+    church stand the ruined walls of the monastery, impressive for their massive
+    construction and the enormous space which was enclosed. It was dark before we
+    finished the examination of these quaint and interesting old buildings, and we were
+    glad enough to go to the house of the <i>secretario</i>, where we found good beds and
+    elaborate furniture. In the room where we were to sleep there was a
+    <i>nacimiento</i>, made in connection with the Christmas season. The table was
+    covered with little landscapes, scattered over which were figures of many kinds,
+    including a group of San Jose, Maria, and the infant Christ.</p>
+    <p>Santa Maria is purely <i>mestizo</i>. In the morning, finding breakfast somewhat
+    slow, we started for a walk, and pass<a name="page196"
+    id="page196"/>ing by the old church, came shortly to the spot where
+    the boy martyr was killed. From here we descended, over a long slope of gray tufa, to
+    a pretty stream flowing through black basalt. The rock is hard and shiny with cells
+    or air-bubbles scattered through its mass. Close by the water's edge we were shown
+    some curious impressions, on the nearly level surface of the rock, which were said to
+    be the imprints of the knees of the Holy Virgin as she knelt here to wash clothes in
+    the brook; there are also grooves made by the Virgin's fingers as she scrubbed the
+    clothing on the rock; by the side of these impressions are two hollows, marking the
+    spot where the Holy Child sat with its mother as she worked. On the rock behind is
+    the impression of a mule's foot. Formerly there were two of these impressions, but in
+    1888 a tornado broke away the mass of rock, on which was the other impression. Just
+    below this place the stream leaps in a pretty cascade which, with its white foam,
+    contrasts strikingly with the black rock. The trail followed by Cortez on his way
+    from Vera Cruz to Tlaxcala was pointed out to us and we were told that Atlihuitzia in
+    those days was an important city, numbering five thousand <i>solteros</i> (unmarried
+    men). On the way back to the village, we visited the <i>arbol
+    huerfano</i>&mdash;orphan tree&mdash;a cypress, so called because it is the only tree
+    of its kind in this district. Quechol says that a long line of such trees, at a
+    distance of several leagues apart, was planted by the Spaniards, and he and the
+    villagers mentioned a number of them in different places. Passing once more by the
+    spot of martyrdom, a white <i>capulin</i> was pointed out, as being the very tree
+    represented in the picture of the killing.</p>
+    <p>It was now almost ten o'clock and we found breakfast waiting. At Quechol's
+    request, it was a purely Mexican meal, consisting of Aztec dishes. We had
+    <i>tamales</i>, <i>atole</i>, and, for the first time, <i>champurado</i>. The latter
+    is <i>atole</i>&mdash;<a name="page197"
+    id="page197"/>corn gruel&mdash;mixed with chocolate, and is really an
+    excellent dish. After breakfast, we left our friends of Atlihuitzia and hastened back
+    over the same road past San Mateo, Belen, San Pablo, and Santa Ana. The way was long
+    and the sun was hot, but the road was beguiled with many stories regarding the places
+    that we passed, for the whole state of Tlaxcala abounds in legend.</p>
+    <hr style="width: 65%;" />
+    <h2><a name="CHAPTER_XVII" id="CHAPTER_XVII"></a>CHAPTER XVII</h2>
+    <a name="page198" id="page198"/>
+    <h2>IN THE CHINANTLA</h2>
+    <h3>(1900)</h3>
+    <p>Once more we found ourselves in picturesque Cuicatlan. Walking up the familiar
+    street, we again found lodging with Do&ntilde;a Serafina. Having settled, and taken a
+    look out over the beautiful landscape visible through our windows, we interviewed the
+    <i>jefe politico</i>, whom we we found the same nerveless, well-meaning individual as
+    ever. After grumbling, and insisting that it was impossible to fit us out on such
+    short notice, he finally promised that all should be ready the next morning. It was a
+    sorry outfit that we found; one medium-sized mule for myself, and four small
+    <i>burros</i> for the other members of the party. A boy from the jail was sent with
+    us as <i>mozo</i> to carry our instruments. It was still early when we started
+    through the hot, sandy, flat land, covered with gigantic cactus trees, which swarmed
+    with little birds of many beautiful kinds. We soon began to climb the great, red rock
+    cliffs, up, and up, and up, endlessly. We had forgotten how long the road was; but it
+    was longer than ever on account of the beasts we rode. Long before we reached Papalo,
+    Manuel and Louis were on foot, rather than longer submit to the torture of riding
+    their little <i>burros</i>. As we neared the town, we were surprised to find a cloud
+    effect almost as fine as that near Juquila in the Mixe country. Had it had clearly
+    defined banks on both sides, its resemblance to a cataract would have been complete.
+    As it was, there was no boundary back of the side towards us, and the clouds plunged
+    over <a name="page199" id="page199"/>and
+    downward as well as in the direction of the flow of the main mass. No one in the town
+    recognized us. Supper and a night's lodging were readily supplied, but when we wished
+    to secure new animals for the onward journey, there was difficulty. They were
+    promised, indeed, for seven o'clock, but it was long after eight before we saw any
+    signs of their appearance. Remonstrating, we were told that there was other business
+    to attend to, and that the town officials could not devote themselves to us. With
+    great difficulty, by 10 o'clock all preparations were made, and we started on the
+    journey. The animals were not bad, but we had been told that there were eight leagues
+    of hard road between us and Tepanapa, and six more from there to San Juan Zautla, our
+    destination; we were told that we should spend the night at Tepanapa, reaching Zautla
+    the second day. As we left the town we overtook a funeral procession on its way to
+    the little hill-crest cemetery which we passed soon after. At first the road was
+    good, gradually ascending. It led us up a rising pine-covered crest, with a little
+    hollow of deciduous trees in the midst. We were again getting into a region where the
+    great hills presented two differing slopes, one dry, pine-clad; the other moist and
+    covered with the dense tropical forest. We soon found ourselves upon the damp slope
+    in a forest, almost the counterpart of those with which we were familiar in the land
+    of the Mixes. Great oaks were loaded with bromelias and dotted with orchids; ferns of
+    many beautiful kinds grew along the roadside. Unlike the forest of the Mixes, the
+    trees here were hung with masses of golden-yellow moss, presenting a curious and
+    mysterious aspect. From here, the trail descended rapidly over surfaces of slippery
+    stone and patches of mud; the air was heavier and heavier with moisture. Ferns
+    abounded, and presently great tree ferns were to be seen, here and there, in all
+    directions. Shortly, our road <a name="page200"
+    id="page200"/>was through a true gorge, where the footing for the
+    horses was precarious. Great masses of lycopods of several species covered the rocks
+    and little round tufts of a dark green plant with feathery foliage dotted the
+    decaying tree trunks. The descent seemed endless, and for more than two hours we
+    descended deeper and deeper into the dampness and darkness. It was six o'clock when
+    we came out upon a slope where the trail was easier and almost level, and it was
+    after dark before we reached the first hut of the miserable <i>ranchito</i> of
+    Tepanapa. Checking our horses, we called, but received no answer. Sending our
+    <i>mozo</i> to the house, we asked for food and shelter, but were refused everything,
+    as they said that they were in bed. A little lad, however, agreed to show us to the
+    next hut, and we followed him as well as we could in the darkness and over the
+    slippery road, some rods further. We found there two empty huts within an enclosure,
+    and, taking possession of one, brought in our things out of the mist, and soon had a
+    fire built and a candle lighted. In vain we urged our <i>mozo</i> to hunt for food.
+    He said that all the houses were empty, and, if perchance one were occupied, no one
+    would turn out so late to supply us. All were extremely hungry, as we had eaten
+    nothing since morning except a <i>tortilla</i> or two with some eggs as we rode
+    along. Manuel, Louis and Frank slept in the loft, Ramon and I upon the floor below.
+    The two <i>mozos</i> with the saddles slept in the other hut. The night was cold and
+    the damp air penetrating. We arose early to go upon our way, but unfortunately
+    yielded to the request of Louis and Ramon, permitting them to go in search of food.
+    Two full hours passed before they returned with a few <i>tortillas</i> and two eggs;
+    so that it was half-past-eight when finally we started.</p>
+    <p>The road was slippery and muddy, descending constantly; a large portion of the way
+    was through woods: at the</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image052.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>SAN JUAN ZAUTLA</b></p>
+<br />
+
+    <a name="page201" id="page201"/>
+    <p>bottom of the slope we found ourselves by a fine brook, which we forded. Then
+    began an ascent as precipitous, slippery and unpleasant. The trail followed the bank
+    of the stream. Passing through a dense jungle of vegetation, where the air was hot
+    and wet, the flora was characteristic. Trees with large, coarse, broad pods enclosing
+    two or three great seeds, trees with acorn-shaped red fruits, quantities of sensitive
+    plants covered with pink flowers, occasional orchids bearing flowers of brilliant
+    flame color, and vines with lovely blue pea-flowers made up the bulk of the tangled
+    growth through which we passed. At two places we crossed pretty streams, with
+    cascades and narrow gorges, opening on to the gorge along the sides of which we were
+    travelling; where these streams crossed our trail there were great masses of
+    caladiums with their leaves of green velvet. We passed two little coffee plantations,
+    the first of which was sadly neglected and overgrown with weeds, the second neatly
+    kept. From this we rose again, and having gained the summit, looked down upon the
+    village of San Juan Zautla.</p>
+    <p>Riding to the town-house, we met the <i>presidente</i> and <i>secretario</i>, the
+    latter an intelligent fellow, who told us that the town was dwindling, numbering at
+    present but 80 <i>contribuentes</i>. He ordered a capital dinner for us of chicken,
+    fried bananas, eggs, <i>frijoles, tortillas</i> and coffee. Though the
+    <i>secretario</i> was intelligent, the <i>presidente</i> was otherwise. He was
+    good-natured, but a fool. With pride he frequently remarked, "<i>yo soy
+    presidente</i>" (I am president). Then he whispered and mumbled, kissed my hand,
+    assumed an air of great intelligence, and walked off with a peculiar tottering
+    movement. These performances took place not once or twice, but every time the
+    official made his appearance. Having fed us, the <i>secretario</i> disappeared, and
+    did no more for us. While waiting for him, our attention was attracted <a name="page202" id="page202"/>by a curious drumming
+    noise. It was due to women who were beating cotton. At the first house we visited we
+    found three women all busily occupied. An old woman sitting in the doorway was
+    spinning thread; a second, somewhat younger woman with a baby in a blanket on her
+    back, sitting on the ground, was weaving cloth; a third woman sat, with a great
+    cushion of moss in a bag of matting on the ground before her, over which was spread a
+    deer-skin on which was laid raw cotton, which she briskly beat with beaters made of
+    five or six divergent sticks fastened together at one end. Such beating sticks are
+    called <i>mapaho</i>; one is held in each hand, and the beating is briskly done,
+    alternately with one and the other; the beating is intended to spread the raw cotton
+    into a thin and even sheet before it is spun into thread. Returning to the
+    town-house, we began our work, but were soon interrupted. The town is situated on a
+    slope over which the houses are scattered. From the porch of the municipal house
+    where we sat, we could see several huts upon the slope above. Groups of women and
+    children gathered on the little terraces before the houses to look down upon us at
+    our work. The <i>presidente</i> and other officials had gone to bring us subjects,
+    when we heard an outcry upon one of these terraces. A man cried out to the officials;
+    struggled, apparently with a woman, then fell. The police rushed up the path. A
+    moment later a surging crowd of a dozen persons were struggling together with cries
+    and shouts. In spite of the commands of the <i>segundo secretario</i>, we started for
+    the scene of the disturbance, but long before we reached the spot, met a big
+    <i>topil</i> with his head cut open and blood streaming down his face, soaking his
+    garments. His arm was thrown around another man's neck, whose wrist he held, dragging
+    him thus a prisoner toward the jail. Two others followed, holding a bad-looking
+    little man between them. The two <a name="page203"
+    id="page203"/>had fought, and when the <i>topil</i> tried to take
+    them, the little man, seizing a rock, split open his head. The two persons were
+    thrust into the jail and a guard set. Great effort was made to find the stone with
+    which the blow was dealt, in order that it might be used as evidence. The
+    <i>secretario</i> told the <i>topil</i> not to staunch nor wash the wound. With
+    natural curiosity, the <i>presidente</i> and other men were clustered around the
+    jail, looking in at the prisoners, when the <i>segundo secretario</i> ordered them
+    from the door.</p>
+    <p>This man is a strange one. He is a Cuicatec, who married a Chinatec wife. He is
+    little, but important. He ever carries a queer old sword. When he first appeared
+    before us, he impressively said, "<i>No tengas cuidado</i>" (Have no care.) He told
+    us that our comfort and our orders should be cared for, even though we were in a
+    pueblo of mere brutes, unreasoning beings; he should charge himself and the officials
+    with our needs. There were scarce three hours of daylight in the afternoon, and night
+    set in chilly and damp. Meantime, the <i>secretario</i>, the <i>segundo</i>, the
+    <i>presidente</i> and the <i>topils</i>, all had disappeared. In vain we urged that
+    arrangements should be made for fuel, for beds, and for a <i>mozo</i>, whom we had
+    ordered should be supplied to accompany the man from Papalo back to that town with
+    the horses. It was now dark and late, with no sign of attention to our wishes.
+    Through the darkness, we picked our way over a muddy road, slippery and soaked with
+    water, to the <i>secretario's</i> house, where we forcibly made known our wishes, and
+    said that attention must be paid to them. Before we got back to the town-house our
+    shoes were soaked with water and heavy with mud, while our clothing was soaked
+    through with moisture from the air filled with mist and drizzling rain; and this in
+    the midst of the dry season!</p>
+    <p>During the afternoon, we had seen a curious-looking <a
+    name="page204" id="page204"/>indian, dressed in a red flannel shirt,
+    white drawers and a cap, but with the regular red Chinantec neck-cloth. He was a
+    Mixtec from San Francisco Huitzo, who is in charge of the well-kept little coffee
+    <i>finca</i> which we passed upon the road. He showed us a bottle of coffee essence
+    of his manufacture. It was a heavy, oily, clear liquid which I understood he had
+    distilled from a weaker and darker coffee extract. It was exceedingly strong, and was
+    supposed to be used for making coffee, a small quantity of the essence being put into
+    a cup with hot water and sugar. He desired us to test this, but a look at it was
+    quite sufficient. He was a handy fellow, and did much to hasten the fulfillment of
+    our orders. Under his direction, sleeping mats were brought, and he, himself, served
+    our supper, when finally it was ready. We were so tired that directly after supper we
+    laid down upon the mats spread on the damp earthen floor. We had hoped to start our
+    man from Papalo back with our horses early; the officials had promised that the
+    <i>mozo</i> to accompany him should be ready; but, of course, neither breakfast nor
+    <i>mozo</i> was to be seen. So we again started for the <i>secretario's</i> house.
+    The <i>secretario</i> himself was lying drunk in bed, and the <i>segundo</i> was
+    almost as bad. In vigorous words I made known my dissatisfaction. The <i>segundo</i>,
+    with his sword in one hand and <i>tortillas</i> in the other, almost too drunk to
+    walk, led us to the town-house and summoned the people before him. He thundered forth
+    his orders: "You dogs, children of a degraded race! Wretched brutes! What do you
+    mean? Why are you not bringing in breakfast for these gentlemen? Eggs, <i>tortillas,
+    frijoles</i>, chicken? Why are you not supplying them? Obey his order. Fulfill your
+    duty. You hear? If you do not fulfill your duty, you shall be punished. Hear and obey
+    at once." Under this impulse the men started and breakfast was soon disposed of.</p>
+    <p><a name="page205" id="page205"/> Work being
+    slack, the boys went bird-hunting. Manuel fetched in a <i>rara avis</i>, a little old
+    man of 95 years, who had an extra thumb on his right hand. Notwithstanding the small
+    population of the town, there were three cases of extra digits. In addition to this
+    old man with his extra thumb, two persons in the town each had an extra toe upon one
+    foot. We have already stated that the <i>presidente</i> of the village was a fool. He
+    had plenty of companions. One of the men, who made himself quite useful to us was an
+    imbecile; he crossed himself, kissed our hands, nodded his head, and told us the most
+    surprising things in regard to the subjects whom he brought before us. In connection
+    with each case he cried and carried on at a great rate, and finally insisted that he
+    was going to bring me a raw egg as an offering of friendship, which he did. One of
+    his subjects was his cousin, who was both idiotic and a deaf-mute. My impression was
+    that there were several cases of deaf-mutism in the village. One man, whenever any of
+    our party spoke to him, or in any way turned our attention to him, piously and
+    vigorously crossed himself, grimaced and gesticulated as if in a fit. One man, who
+    seemed exceptionally intelligent, after he had seen us make a plaster bust of one of
+    his townfellows, stated with great delight, that it was an idol, representing Jesus
+    Christ, and that we were going to use it in the church. Unlike any other indian town
+    we have visited, there is not even the pretence of an open school in this place.
+    Nowhere else have women and children showed so great a fear of us and our work. From
+    the moment that I showed an interest in the <i>mapaho</i>, the beating of cotton
+    ceased, and the village was quiet. At no time during our stay did women or children
+    come to the town-house. Shortly after sending back our horses to Papalo, we found
+    that there were no animals for riding in San Juan Zautla. Fortunately, our next
+    point, San Pedro, was but two leagues <a name="page206"
+    id="page206"/>distant, and rather than wait until animals could be
+    brought from Cuicatlan, we decided to walk. The night before we were to leave, we
+    made arrangements for our carriers. The <i>secretario</i> had set the price at two
+    <i>reales</i> a man; four were ordered, and an early hour set for the departure. When
+    the time came, our men were in open rebellion. They refused to go upon the journey.
+    We told the town officials that, if these men failed us, they themselves must do the
+    work. The men were really scared, and stated that the people of San Pedro had
+    threatened to kill us all, if we came to their town. In vain we argued&mdash;they
+    were sure that the whole party were going to their doom. For such a paltry sum no man
+    would risk his life. At last, however, the officials decreed obedience, and our party
+    started. At first we led the company and the carriers came behind. The road led
+    straight down the mountain-side to a brook, and then up the opposite side to the
+    summit, just beyond which lay our goal. As we started, he who had recognized the bust
+    of Jesus insisted upon accompanying us a way for friendship, and on the journey made
+    various wise remarks regarding the busts. Hardly had we started when our men again
+    rebelled; they would not make the journey for the price agreed upon, the risk was too
+    great; they must be paid more, if they went at all. I felt that patience had ceased
+    to be a virtue. Telling them that we would no longer go ahead, we ordered them to
+    take up their burdens and precede us, at the same time threatening to shoot them, if
+    they stopped without permission. After marching along in this new order for a time,
+    they indicated a desire to parley. They would carry their burdens to the foot of the
+    hill, where they would leave them by the brook-side. We could then go on to the
+    village of San Pedro and send back carriers to bring them. To this proposition we
+    gave no encouragement. The descent was abrupt. At the bottom <a
+    name="page207" id="page207"/>was a fine brook, with a hanging bridge
+    of vines swinging from tree to tree across it. Here we stopped to drink the fresh
+    cool water, cut some sugar-canes, catch butterflies, and take views. One of the trees
+    from which the vines hung was a perfect mass of ferns, orchids and bromelias of many
+    kinds. On the great slope back of us, toward the gap through which the brook had
+    broken, were great cliffs of massive rock; otherwise the whole mountain slope was a
+    sheet of richest green. The ascent was long and difficult, and the party went slowly,
+    with many rests. It was amusing, how, even at this distance, as we mounted the slope,
+    we could hear the constant beating of the <i>mapaho</i> in the village behind us, as
+    if in rejoicing at our departure. As we neared the summit, our carriers again made
+    signals of a desire to converse. They would fulfill their whole duty, and would carry
+    their burdens to the town-house in San Pedro, but would we have the kindness, from
+    here on, to take the lead? Oh, yes, we answered, we would take the lead, and they
+    should see that nothing would happen. No one would harm us; we were not about to
+    die.</p>
+    <p>To make a favorable impression, we asked for a drink of water at the first house
+    we came to, and passed a greeting with the few men, women and children whom we met on
+    our way into town. The greater part of the population was at church, where we found a
+    service in progress, and we were obliged to wait until it was over before we saw the
+    town officials. I told the <i>secretario</i> to summon the town government to the
+    municipal-house, which was a small affair, no more than 15 or 18 by 20 feet, with
+    walls of lashed poles and a palm roof. A narrow bench ran around the four sides, and
+    two tables, one long and one short one, set at right angles, occupied the greater
+    portion of the open space. A long wide bench was placed alongside of the larger. At
+    one end there was a <i>santo</i>, in a little shrine <a
+    name="page208" id="page208"/>decorated with flowers and leaves. A
+    little fire was built upon the floor, over which wax was melting, in which candles
+    were being dipped.</p>
+    <p>The <i>secretario</i> chanced to be a man whom I had met at Cuicatlan the year
+    before. He recalled our work, and taking us to his own house, we soon had an
+    excellent dinner. He seemed to be well-to-do, and had two houses built of slabs
+    lashed vertically together. Nets full of <i>j&iacute;caras</i>, great stacks of corn
+    neatly laid out, good tableware in quantity, and a kerosene-lamp, all were evidences
+    of his wealth. We ate at a good table, in the house, where the corn was stored. The
+    most astonishing thing, however, in the house was an old-fashioned piano, long beyond
+    use. How it was ever brought over the mountains to this village is a wonder. When we
+    asked him, what we were to pay for the dinner, he replied, nothing; that we would
+    begin to pay later. The impression made upon us by San Pedro was more agreeable than
+    that produced by Zautla. The town government is large and vigorous, comprising a
+    dozen well-built young fellows. On account of the church festival, plenty of subjects
+    had been brought together. We did not understand what the <i>secretario</i> expected,
+    and therefore took up our quarters at the town-house. We paid dearly for our
+    misunderstanding. We waited long for supper, but none came. The <i>presidente</i> and
+    the older men were at church. The <i>secretario</i> was nowhere to be found. While we
+    were waiting, the young fellows who were making candles, and a crowd of boys,
+    crouched about the fire and watched the work. Presently they lay down a couple of
+    <i>serapes</i> on the floor, and the whole group, eighteen or twenty in number,
+    dropped down upon them, a perfect mass of humanity, packed close together in the most
+    curiously twisted attitudes, and were fast asleep in no time. They had no covering,
+    but seemed to keep each<a name="page209"
+    id="page209"/> other warm. After they were fast asleep, some of the
+    other men appeared, and we urged the bringing in of supper. A handful of
+    <i>tortillas</i> and two fried eggs were not a hearty meal for six hungry persons,
+    nor were our sleeping accommodations satisfactory. With difficulty we got some mats,
+    and I lay down upon the smaller table, Frank on the larger, Louis and Manuel rolled
+    up on the ground below the latter, and Ramon and the <i>mozo</i> on the long bench.
+    Half a dozen of the older men remained sitting about the fire. It can be understood
+    that the room was fairly full. The men made no pretense of sleeping until past ten
+    o'clock, and two or three times during the night they broke out into loud
+    conversation.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image053a.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>CHINANTEC GIRL SPINNING; SAN JUAN ZAUTLA</b></p>
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image053b.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>CHINANTEC WEAVING; SAN JUAN ZAUTLA</b></p>
+<br />
+
+    <p>Just outside the town-house, under a thatched shelter, a group of old women were
+    cooking <i>atole</i> in great <i>ollas</i> until a late hour. This gruel they ladled
+    out to those men and boys who had been working, and doled out to them drinks from
+    black bottles. The men and boys, with their red head-cloths or neck-cloths, went
+    forth from time to time in groups upon some public errand. Towards evening, eight or
+    ten little fellows came from the forest with bundles of firewood upon their heads and
+    great <i>machetes</i> hanging at their sides. In the morning, the same group of
+    youngsters came in loaded with bunches of green leaves and holly to be used in
+    decorating the church. At eight o'clock there was a procession in the churchyard; the
+    saint, dressed in flowing garments, was carried about, accompanied by banners and a
+    band of music. During the festival, everyone drank; even the little boys of eight or
+    nine years, who brought in their loads of wood, received their spirits, which they
+    drank like old topers. There was no evidence of bad temper as a result of this
+    drinking, but an increasing stupidity. When, in the morning, we found our breakfast
+    to consist of nothing but coffee, we realized our mistake of the <a name="page210" id="page210"/>night before, and
+    promptly betook ourselves to the house of the <i>secretario</i>, where we spent the
+    following day. The demands of the church during the day were so heavy that we did
+    little work. The day itself was dark and dismal. In the late morning the boys brought
+    in great loads of poinsettia, from which they fashioned brilliant rosettes and
+    garlands for the church. At night, a wooden platform was brought in for a bed, upon
+    which Louis, Manuel and I slept, while the others made a bed of broad boards upon the
+    floor. Being behind with his developing, Louis set to work as soon as the lights were
+    out, and kept at it until half-past-one. Scarcely had he come to bed and promptly
+    fallen asleep, when there was a pounding at the door, which was almost immediately
+    after broken in. Rising, I called out to see what was wanted, and four or five
+    indians, all very drunk, came staggering in. The oldest of the party carried a great
+    <i>machete</i>, and one of them closely hugged a bottle full of spirits. After
+    begging pardon for disturbing us, they built a smoky fire, near the drying negatives.
+    Fearing that their drunken movements and the smoke would work disaster, I made them
+    change their place of rest and fire, moving them to the other end of the room. There
+    they built another fire, and, before morning, they had consumed three bottles of
+    spirits. What with the firelight and smoke, the noisy laughter, the loud talking and
+    constant movement, it was impossible for me to sleep. Only for a single hour, when
+    they fell back upon the floor in drunken slumber, and their fire burned down, did I
+    get a bit of rest. If seems that they were an official guard put to watch the town
+    store of grain which was kept in the building, and which was subject to the
+    depredations of animals. During the following day we completed our work upon
+    Chinantecs. The type is one of the best marked. In the child, the nose is wide, flat
+    at the tip, with a straight or even concave <a name="page211"
+    id="page211"/>bridge; the eyes are widely separated and often
+    oblique; the mouth is large, the lips thick and the upper lip projects notably beyond
+    the lower; the face is wide, and flat at the cheek-bones. With age, this type
+    changes, the nose becomes aquiline, and of moderate breadth, the upper lip becomes
+    less prominent, the skin lightens.</p>
+    <p>For two days more, days of darkness, rain and cold that penetrated to the marrow,
+    we remained prisoners in the village, waiting for the horses for which we had sent
+    the day of our arrival. It was impossible to make photographs, nor was it feasible to
+    look around the town, or into the adjoining country. The <i>secretario</i>, indeed,
+    showed us the way in which spirits are distilled from the sap of sugar-cane, and we
+    had ample opportunity to examine the dress of the people and the mode of weaving. All
+    the women dress in garments of home-woven cotton, and the red head-cloths, so
+    characteristic a feature of the dress of men and boys, are woven here from thread
+    already dyed, bought in other places. The little figures of animals or birds or
+    geometrical designs worked in them in green or yellow worsted are woven in, at the
+    time of making the cloths, with bright bits of wool.</p>
+    <p>At last our animals appeared. They had been sent from Papalo, and we made
+    arrangements, as we supposed, for using them through to Cuicatlan. The animals
+    arrived at 9:30 in the morning and the <i>mozo</i> with them reported that the roads
+    were bad from the constant rains of the past several days. We decided to leave that
+    afternoon, stopping at Zautla for the night, and then, making an early start, to push
+    through in a single day. The <i>presidente, alcalde</i>, and other town officials
+    accompanied us to the border of the village, where they bade us adieu, begging for a
+    <i>real</i> for drink. As we left, the sky was clear and the mists were rising from
+    the valleys. For the first time we gained some <a
+    name="page212" id="page212"/>idea of the beauty of the country all
+    around us. The houses of the town are well built, with walls of poles or narrow slabs
+    neatly corded together in a vertical position. The roofs are thatched with palm; they
+    pitch sharply from a central ridge and the ends pitch also from the ridge in
+    independent slopes. The top is crested with a comb of thatch, neatly applied. Off to
+    the right from the village lay a magnificent valley, with massive rock walls clad
+    with green forest. The low masses of clouds and great banks of mist but emphasized
+    the impression made by those parts of the scene that were visible. Soon we had passed
+    the ridge and looked down again into the Zautla valley. The road was not as bad as we
+    had anticipated. As we made our upward climb, we found that the flame-colored
+    orchids, few when we last passed that way, were out in quantity. They are a
+    terrestrial species, and the colors are a beautiful combination of flame-red with
+    chrome-yellow. The other day only the outer and lower flowers of the racemes were
+    blown, but on this occasion the whole cluster was in bloom. We noticed strikingly,
+    what had before suggested itself to us, that through this district flowers of certain
+    colors mass themselves together. Thus, on this slope, the hundreds of bunches of
+    flame-colored orchids were rivalled by clusters of a tubular flower perhaps an inch
+    in length, of almost the same hues. Along the glen-road near Tepanapa all sorts of
+    flowers seemed to be pink or flesh-colored, while along the jungle-bank, near the
+    coffee plantation, everything was blue or purple. When we reached Zautla, neither the
+    <i>presidente</i>, the <i>secretario</i> nor the <i>segundo</i> was in town. The big
+    <i>topil</i>, whose head was healing, did the honors of the place. We had intended to
+    make an early start, but it was half past six before we mounted and were on our way.
+    Going back over the old road, we soon reached the little coffee <i>finca</i> in
+    charge of our Mixtec friend, and <a name="page213"
+    id="page213"/>here we left the familiar trail, for what our guide
+    insisted was a better one. We struck up and up and up the slope to avoid little
+    ravines which he assured us were very bad. At last, when it was certain that he had
+    completely lost his way, we started down into the forest. For a time we followed a
+    bad and disused trail, but soon even this disappeared, and we tore our way through
+    the tropical vegetation as best we could. Often the men had to cut the way with their
+    <i>machetes</i>; sometimes we slid for yards over the wet mud; frequently our heads
+    were caught by hanging vines, and faces and hands were scratched with brambles. When
+    at last we came out upon a cleared space, we found ourselves at the Chinantec village
+    of Santa Maria. Perhaps there were four houses in the village.</p>
+    <p>Our appearance caused great excitement. Our pack-animals bade fair to destroy the
+    maize and other plantings in the field. In the trail were oxen, which had to be
+    gotten out of our way for fear of being driven to frenzy by our mere passing. They
+    assured us that we were on the road to Tepanapa, so we completed the descent to the
+    brooklet and started up a trail which at any time would have been steep, stony,
+    slippery, all at once. We were compelled, finally, to dismount and lead our animals;
+    Frank, before he did so, tumbled his horse three times down the bank. At one place
+    two of the horses fell together in a struggling mass, and for a moment things looked
+    serious. All the animals but my own fell, at least once, before we reached the
+    summit. From there, it was an easy ride over a level district until we were in sight
+    of Tepanapa, which, by sunlight, presented a most attractive appearance. The houses
+    are spread over a gentle slope, to the very edge of a little <i>barranca</i>. Each
+    had a little enclosure, with a group of banana plants. Butterflies of brilliant hues
+    lazily flew about, and a few birds uttered their characteristic cries. We could not,
+    however, delay.<a name="page214" id="page214"/>
+    Before us lay a tremendous ascent; the first part, which we had passed after dusk, we
+    found rougher than we realized; rock masses here were covered with a thick cushion of
+    brilliant crimson moss, a kind of sphagnum. The gully trail had not been improved by
+    the recent rains, and it taxed our animals severely to reach the summit. Arrived in
+    the district of the trees loaded with beards of golden-yellow moss, we caught a
+    magnificent view back over the valley. With one sweep of the eyes, we could almost
+    follow our whole round of wandering. The ridges on which lay San Juan Zautla and San
+    Pedro Soochiapan both were in sight, as were the valleys in which Santa Maria and
+    Tepanapa lay. But the only actual feature which we could see and recognize was the
+    little coffee <i>finca</i> this side of Zautla. The combination of green mountains,
+    blue ridges and bare rock cliffs was grand. Here our road forked, and at this point
+    we had a moment's excitement. We met an old indian man with a baby tied upon his
+    back, and his old wife, carrying a burden, followed after. Before them a black bull
+    was calmly walking. The moment the old man saw us, he waved his arms and cried out,
+    in great excitement, "<i>Toro, muy bravo</i>!" (Bull, very fierce!) and hastened
+    forward to catch the lasso wound round the horns of the beast to lead him out of our
+    way. Just then the bull took matters into his own control, and, with a snort and
+    plunge, started wildly away, dragging the old fellow at a wild run down the trail,
+    finally whirling him and the baby into a heap by the roadside, while he himself took
+    up the mountain-side. It was after dark before we reached Papalo.</p>
+    <p>After much grumbling, supper was prepared and a solemn promise given that we
+    should leave at seven in the morning. When we were ready, no animals were to be seen.
+    The <i>presidente</i> asserted that the price which we had paid was only to that
+    point, and that if we wanted <a name="page215"
+    id="page215"/>animals for Cuicatlan we must make a new arrangement.
+    This was sheer blackmail, because there had been no misunderstanding in the matter,
+    and a liberal price had been paid. After wrangling for an hour, we shook the dust of
+    Papalo literally from our feet, and started to walk to Cuicatlan, telling the town
+    authorities that our burdens must be taken by <i>mozos</i> to the <i>cabecera</i>
+    before three o'clock, and that we should pay nothing for the service. Probably we
+    should not have been so ready to take this heroic action if we had not remembered
+    that the road was down hill all the way, and good walking. Still, fifteen miles is
+    fifteen miles, and the sun was hot, and though we left at 8:30, it was two o'clock
+    before we entered Cuicatlan. We had no adventures by the way, except the killing of a
+    coral snake which lay in the middle of the road. At three the <i>mozos</i> with their
+    burdens arrived, and felt it very hard that we kept our promise of paying nothing for
+    their service.</p>
+    <hr style="width: 65%;" />
+    <h2><a name="CHAPTER_XVIII" id="CHAPTER_XVIII"></a>CHAPTER XVIII</h2>
+    <a name="page216" id="page216"/>
+    <h2>TO COIXTLAHUACA</h2>
+    <h3>(1900)</h3>
+    <p>For a day we rested at Cuicatlan to make arrangements for a trip to the land of
+    the Chochos. We complained bitterly to the <i>jefe politico</i> regarding the
+    miserable animals which had been supplied us for our last journey, and demanded
+    something better.</p>
+    <p>Frank had had enough of practical anthropology, and left us, so there were but
+    four to be provided. At eight o'clock the following morning, four decent horses and
+    two pack animals were waiting at our door. A mounted <i>arriero</i> was in charge, to
+    accompany us. Although he had been inefficient on the preceding journey, the same
+    jail-bird was sent with us, as <i>mozo</i>, whom we had had before. At 8:30 our party
+    of six persons started; passing the river, which we forded, an excellent road took
+    us, for a league, over the sandy plain, which was fairly grown with trees, supplying
+    a little shade. The great <i>pitahayas</i> were in bloom, and their white flowers
+    looked well against the ugly, stiff green branches. The roadside was bordered with
+    <i>acacias</i> which, in full bloom, presented masses of golden balls and perfumed
+    the air with their delicate odor. Passing a considerable sugar <i>hacienda</i>, the
+    trail struck into the mountains, and for three hours we made a steady ascent. The
+    road itself was excellent but the sun beat down with fearful force, and the heat was
+    reflected from the bare road and the rock cliffs along which we travelled. At one
+    place the vegetation consisted of a curious mixture of gigantic <a name="page217" id="page217"/>cactuses, rising as
+    single stalks as high as telegraph poles but larger in diameter, and palms. Arriving
+    at the crest, we saw a long plain stretching before us, presenting a mingled growth
+    of palms and pines. At the very border of the ridge stood a hut of poles, where we
+    stopped to drink <i>tepache</i> and to eat broiled chicken which we had brought with
+    us. We found the old woman, an indian&mdash;neither Cuicatec, Chinantec, Mixtec, nor
+    Zapotec, as we might expect&mdash;but a full Aztec from Cordoba. She was bright and
+    shrewd, and, as we chatted with her, we noticed a little chicken a few days old
+    awkwardly running about with curiously deformed feet. Upon my noticing it, the old
+    lady remarked that the moon made it so. I inquired what she meant. She said, "Yes, we
+    know it is the moon which shapes the bodies of all young animals." We followed the
+    road a long distance over the hot plain, passing San Pedro Jocotepec to our left, and
+    shortly after, struck up the mountain side and had another long and steady climb,
+    until, at last, we reached the crest of all the district. Here and there, we
+    encountered bits of limestone, which always, in this southern country, makes the
+    worst roads for travel. The rain erodes it into the oddest of forms, leaving
+    projecting ridges almost as sharp as knife-edges, with irregular hollows pitting the
+    surface, so that it forms a most insecure and unpleasant foot-hold for the animals.
+    Not only so, but the surface, rough as it is, is frequently as polished as glass,
+    and, whether wet or dry, is slippery to the tread. Walking over these jagged surfaces
+    of limestone is destructive to any shoes. A single afternoon of this will do more
+    wear than a month of ordinary use. Troublesome as these limestones are, as roads,
+    they are ever interesting, because the masses by the roadside present the most
+    astonishing and beautiful forms of waterwear; upon a mass eight or ten feet across,
+    there will be worn a system of ridges and inter<a
+    name="page218" id="page218"/>vening channels, which, in miniature,
+    seems to reproduce the orographic features of the whole country.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image054a.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>WOMEN WITH BABIES; SAN JUAN ZAUTLA</b></p>
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image054b.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>CAIRN, ON ROAD TO COIXTLAHUACA</b></p>
+<br />
+
+
+    <p>While we were passing over one of these limestone stretches, a little before
+    reaching the summit, we found a spot of unusual difficulty. The two pack animals were
+    together, one tied to the tail of the other; the second had several times acted
+    badly, but in passing over this bit of road, he jumped and plunged, so that his pack
+    loosened and slid to one side. Plunging, kicking, and falling, he dragged down the
+    unfortunate beast to whose tail he was tied; the old rope tugged and creaked, and,
+    for a moment, we expected to see the very tail of the forward animal pulled out, and
+    both packs destroyed by the struggling beasts. Fortunately, at this moment, the rope
+    itself broke. The forward animal was loosened and quickly quieted; but the other one
+    kicked and struggled, with our load of plates and developing trays under him. Quickly
+    cutting the ropes that held the burden, we tried to release the animal, but it lay
+    exhausted, and, for a moment, we thought it dead. Really, however, it was not hurt at
+    all, and the loads themselves appeared undamaged. The burdens having been repacked,
+    we again started on the journey. At several places on this road, we had noticed
+    cairns, or heaps of pebbles. On inquiring from Don Manuel&mdash;the funny little man,
+    who had the animals in charge&mdash;we learned that every Chocho indian passing the
+    place adds a pebble to the heap, to secure good luck and insure his safe return home.
+    At the summit, we found one of these piles of stone surmounted by a cross, and
+    learned that when the Chochos reach this spot, they always stop, repeat a prayer, and
+    dance for good health and fortune before the cross. It was now almost dark. Soon we
+    saw the downward slope, at the foot of which Huautla lay. We hastened down the slope,
+    passing through a grove of oak trees, heavily loaded<a
+    name="page219" id="page219"/> with bromelias; at the foot of the
+    slope, we crossed a stream of clearest water, bordered with handsome cypress trees,
+    and passing several houses, came to the one where we planned to stop for the night.
+    It was now dark. There was no opportunity for sleeping in the hut, and so we prepared
+    to lie down outside. The people in the house prepared <i>tortillas</i> and beans,
+    and, after eating, we rolled up in our blankets and lay down on some dried corn-husks
+    on the ground. It was a night of suffering; the cold was so great that our blankets
+    furnished no protection, and the place swarmed with fleas innumerable. At last, at
+    four o'clock, two hours before sunrise, we started on our journey in the hope of
+    getting warm. The air was damp and heavy, and, until the sun rose, we had a desolate
+    journey. We were again upon a limestone district, with interesting features of
+    scenery, and with few difficulties in the road. We passed many oblong hills of
+    limestone, the horizontal layers of which upon the slopes present tiers of steps, one
+    behind the other. These hills were astonishingly overgrown with trees, and formed
+    masses of the darkest green. There was a great deal of subterranean water, and
+    sink-holes produced by caving over such streams were frequent. The soil generally was
+    a residual red or brownish clay. Flocks of gray pigeons were startled from their
+    roosts by our passing; and little doves were plentiful; great hawks and small eagles
+    were seen in pairs, hovering high in the air. We passed several little ranches, to
+    one of which the name of El Zapato is given from a foot-print which is said to be
+    painted on the rocks at that point. Finally, we saw before us the hill behind which,
+    Don Manuel assured us, lay Coxitlahuaca. To mount and drop down behind it seemed a
+    simple thing, but we had to traverse the whole length of the rather irregular ridge,
+    which seemed interminable. The road which led up to it was called the Rio
+    Blanca&mdash;white river&mdash;an <a name="page220"
+    id="page220"/>appropriate name, as it was broad and deeply worn into
+    the soft rock of which the ridge consisted. When we reached the crest, we found the
+    ridge extending as a flat plain of light, buff-colored tufa, with many trails worn
+    deeply into it, and giving out, under the bright sunshine, a frightful reflection of
+    light and heat. Long before we reached the end of this dreary stretch, we saw
+    Coixtlahuaca and its adjoining indian villages, Nativitas and San Cristobal. As we
+    drew nearer, the view was striking. The town is broad, but of little depth; its
+    streets are laid out with regularity; its great church, with masses of ruin on either
+    side, is conspicuous; the <i>plaza</i> is large for the size of the town. To one side
+    of it are the <i>portales</i> and the town-house and <i>jefatura</i>. To the right of
+    the town and behind it is a large, walled cemetery with many gravestones. Back of
+    all, rise hills of tufa, such as we had just traversed. The houses, similar to those
+    at Huautla, and in the country between there and here, appear to be constructed with
+    a view to cold. At least, two houses usually occur in one inclosure; the one, more
+    important, corresponds to the god-house of the Aztecs and the other to the
+    cook-house. The former is better built, and has low, carefully constructed walls, and
+    a high abruptly four-pitched, heavily thatched roof. Going to the <i>jefatura</i>,
+    the young clerk there was much impressed by the documents we presented, and asked us
+    if we would accompany him to the <i>jefe's</i> house, as thus no time would be lost.
+    Upon arriving at the house of the <i>jefe</i>, we found that a wedding was about to
+    be celebrated in the church. The <i>jefe</i> received us with magnificent promises;
+    we should room at the palace, arrangements should be made for boarding at a private
+    house, beds and other proper furniture should be brought immediately, and the
+    following day we should journey on horseback through all the indian towns of the
+    vicinity. This was all very <a name="page221"
+    id="page221"/>fine, but we told him that meantime we were
+    hungry&mdash;we had eaten nothing since the night before and then had fared
+    badly&mdash;and that we must unload our animals, which we had left with the rest of
+    our company, standing in front of the palace. The unloading was done at once and we
+    were given the schoolhouse for our quarters, at the rear of the <i>patio</i> of the
+    palace. At this moment, however, everything else was neglected for the wedding. This
+    we all attended, and it was, indeed, an occasion. The bride in white, with veil and
+    orange-blossoms, was accompanied by her mother, god-mother, and other female friends.
+    She was really a pretty and wholesome indian girl, and the groom was a decent young
+    <i>mestizo</i>, with gray wool sombrero, and linen jacket, cloth trousers, etc. He
+    and his god-father were bustling about attending to all sorts of preliminaries. In
+    the solemn procession which took place to the church, the company of ladies preceded;
+    the <i>jefe</i> and myself led the line of male friends, and, when we filed into the
+    church, the building was fairly filled. The special friends, including our party,
+    moved in procession to the high altar, where the ceremony was performed. The bridal
+    company knelt with candles in their hands. Other candles, some of enormous size, were
+    burning in various parts of the church. The priest, with much ceremony, gave the
+    sacrament of the communion to the couple, and then fastened two golden chains,
+    crossing, about both their necks. A scarf of satin was placed upon them so as to
+    cover both, passing over the head of the woman, and the shoulders of the man. From
+    the church, our procession, dwindled to the particular friends and guests of honor,
+    walked through the village to the justice-court, where the civil ceremony was
+    performed. The matter having been accomplished with full respect to the requirements
+    of the law, we thought again of dinner. The <i>jefe</i> told us that <a name="page222" id="page222"/>to-morrow we should
+    go to our boarding-place, but that to-day we were to dine together in state. Time
+    passed, hour after hour lagged by, until the <i>mozo</i> and <i>arriero</i> struck
+    for money, with which to buy themselves something to eat. Meantime, we waited.
+    Finally, at three o'clock in the afternoon, we were summoned, and the <i>jefe</i>,
+    myself, and our companions, started down the hot, dusty, main street. On and on we
+    walked, until, at last, the <i>jefe</i> himself impatiently demanded of our guide how
+    far we had to go. At last, we heard the strains of music, and, shortly, found
+    ourselves in a yard crowded with people, among whom two bands of music were present,
+    one with stringed instruments and the other with brass. It was the house of the
+    bride, and after a moment's waiting in the yard, we were ushered, by the
+    <i>jefe's</i> clerk, into the building. It had been cleared of all its contents and a
+    long table, set in the middle, ran lengthwise of the place. Benches were placed
+    beside it. A line of vases, filled with bouquets, occupied the middle of the table
+    and between these were bottles of wine, <i>catal&aacute;n, mescal, pulque,
+    tepache</i>, beer, etc. The ladies were already seated; we took the remaining seats.
+    The company consisted of the bride and groom, their parents, god-parents, families,
+    and particular friends. And then, we had a dinner which amply compensated for the
+    thirty-six hours through which we had been fasting&mdash;good bread, soup, stews,
+    broiled meat, <i>mole, mole prieto</i>, chicken, beans, sweetmeats, coffee, with the
+    beverages before mentioned. Dishes, when they came in, were politely passed across
+    the table to the ladies opposite; no one ate till all were served, and when we were
+    through, the place was cleared, and another room full of friends sat down to the
+    bountiful repast. And then a third, and then a fourth, till everyone had feasted,
+    even to the commonest, and the musicians, to whom abundance was carried after those
+    invited in had eaten. Through<a name="page223"
+    id="page223"/> all this lengthy feasting the bands of music alternated
+    with each other. When all had eaten, the women quickly cleared the house, the tables
+    were moved, and all the chairs of the neighborhood were set stiffly around the walls,
+    after which dancing began, continuing through the night.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image055.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>COIXTLAHUACA</b></p>
+<br />
+
+    <p>After having eaten, we stepped outside to visit with the crowd. Among them,
+    several drunken men showed special friendliness. One of these insisted upon showing
+    us an idol, which, from his description, should have been a rather beautiful piece.
+    It turned out to be a very crudely-made head, wrought in coarse, cellular lava.
+    Considering the material, the work was really fine; nor was it a fragment broken from
+    the body, as there had never been more than what we saw. From here, a yet more
+    drunken <i>dulcero</i> insisted on our going to his <i>dulceria</i> and bake-shop,
+    where he told us that he had a much finer piece. We found he really had an enormous
+    head, made of coarse, but rather bright, red stone; it was another example of the
+    same type of separate head, a type which must be characteristic of the district.</p>
+    <p>Notwithstanding the fine promises, we found no beds or other furniture when we
+    returned to our room. This was not, perhaps, surprising, in view of the excitement
+    over the wedding, which might drive lesser matters out of the mind of the great
+    official. With difficulty, we secured some mats from the chief of police, and made
+    our beds with these upon the desks and benches of the school room. But, though we
+    remained in Coixtlahuaca several days, no beds were forthcoming, though we referred
+    to them often enough; nor did the private boarding-house materialize. We, however,
+    found a little place in the village where we got plenty of good food cheaply. Nor did
+    the ride on horseback through the neighboring villages, which had been so pleasantly
+    suggested by the <i>jefe</i>, materialize. However, each <a
+    name="page224" id="page224"/>day of our stay we were assured that all
+    arrangements had been made for it to take place on the morrow.</p>
+    <p>We have already mentioned the <i>plaza</i> as large in proportion to the size of
+    the town. On Sunday it was crowded, and while many things were bought and sold, the
+    trade in <i>sombreros</i> surpassed all others. This is a specialty of all the
+    district; throughout the Chocho towns, they make an excellent grade of palm-hats and
+    everyone engages in the making. Both men and women braid palm, and in every yard
+    there is excavated in the soft, tufaceous rock, a <i>cueva</i>, or cave, in which
+    they work. Here the palm is left between times, and here two persons generally work
+    together, each braiding at a hat, while a little cross, cut in the rock-wall, looks
+    down upon the work, for good luck. These caves have a narrow opening upward and are
+    scarcely large enough to admit the two persons who sit at their work. The object of
+    the cave is to keep the work moist, as the plaiting cannot be well done, if the palm
+    dries out.</p>
+    <p>The Monday we were there, the victory of February 5th was celebrated. The day
+    began with music by the brass-band, from the roof of the <i>presidencia</i>. The
+    band, a large one, consisted almost entirely of boys about fifteen years of age. Only
+    the director and one among the players were men grown. At sunrise the national flag
+    was raised, and at seven the church-bells were rung. Through the afternoon, games of
+    ball and cock-fights furnished amusement. Among the crowd, at the house of the bride,
+    we had met a little, stout man of about twenty-five or thirty years, who considered
+    himself superior to the other people, and who variously attempted to make himself
+    familiar. At several times during our measuring and bust-making, he had hung around,
+    making smart remarks, but we had never invited him to submit to measure, as he did
+    not seem to be a really full-blood indian. He had made a nuisance of <a name="page225" id="page225"/>himself, but,
+    finally, one day, when he was standing in the crowd, which was looking on, he called
+    my attention to a friend of his, remarking that here was a good subject. On calling
+    this young man to be measured, we met with unexpected resistance. He was purely
+    indian, short, well-dressed, and well-mannered, but he refused to be measured. We had
+    had some little trouble with our subjects that afternoon, and therefore insisted that
+    he should undergo the operation. He refused. Of course, the officials were on our
+    side, and the police led him off to jail. When he saw that there was no escape, he
+    consented to be measured, and they brought him back, under guard, until the operation
+    was performed. So much feeling had been raised by the matter, that his foolish
+    friend, to whose jocularity he owed the unpleasant experience, thought best himself
+    to be measured. Accordingly measures were taken, although it was after dark, and a
+    candle had to be used in reading. As our day's work was done, we returned to our
+    room, making ready to go to supper. The crowd had departed. To our surprise, we found
+    these foolish fellows at our door awaiting us. "Sir," they said, "we would speak with
+    you a moment." Going aside with them, I asked their wishes. They then launched out,
+    with weeping and groans and much wringing of hands, into a dreary tale. They were
+    young teachers waiting for appointment; one of them had a little family; it would be
+    a dreadful thing for them to be taken away and forced into the army. It was
+    impossible to convince them that there was no harm in the matter. After long
+    discussion and elaborate explanations, they cheered up somewhat, but insisted that I
+    must go to the house of one of them, the one who had given trouble, to take
+    <i>pulque</i>. We went, three abreast, each one of them taking one of my <i>brazitos
+    queridos</i>&mdash;"beloved little arms;" as we went, they alternately indulged in
+    admiring exclamations&mdash;"Ah,<a name="page226"
+    id="page226"/> Severo, what a <i>maestro</i>! how fine a gentleman!
+    how amiable! Say Manuelito, was there ever such a one." At the house, which was neat
+    and clean, I met the mother and two little ones, who would be left behind in case
+    Severo were forced to go into the army. Then the <i>pulque</i> was brought in and
+    sampled. As I was leaving to go to supper, they said, no, I must go to my room; they
+    would accompany me. In vain I reminded them that my companions were waiting for me at
+    the eating-place; I must be seen back to my very door, then I might go where I
+    pleased; but with them I had gone forth, and until they saw me home again, they would
+    be responsible for my person.</p>
+    <p>Coixtlahuaca itself is largely a <i>mestizo</i> town. But immediately in its
+    neighborhood, and on its outskirts, are indian villages. All Chochos know Spanish,
+    and but few talk their own language. There is little of interest in their life and
+    nothing characteristic in their dress, which is that of <i>mestizos</i> in general.
+    But the physical type is well defined. The stature is small; the face is short and
+    broad; the nose is wide and flat, with a fat, flattened tip; the hair is somewhat
+    inclined to curl, especially on top behind.</p>
+    <p>Despairing of the promised trip through the villages, we issued orders for our
+    animals to be ready early one morning. Only after vigorous complaints and threats
+    were they actually ready. The owner of the beast which I, myself, mounted went with
+    us on foot, and a <i>mozo</i> was supplied for carrying instruments. In spite of fair
+    promises that we would leave at three, it was 4:40 before we started, though we had
+    risen at half-past-two. Our <i>arriero</i> was the best we ever had; far from sparing
+    his good horse and grumbling at our speed, he was continually complaining at our
+    slowness. "Why don't the boys want to go fast?" he would say. "Don't you want to get
+    there at a good hour? Why do you go so slowly?" And then, striking the horse,<a name="page227" id="page227"/> he trotted along at
+    wonderful speed. We reached Huautla at half-past-eight, stopping an hour to feed our
+    horses and to eat beans and <i>tortillas</i>. We then pushed on down the slope, and
+    out over the long ridge, passing the hut of our Cordoban Aztec woman. It was the
+    hottest hour of the day when we descended the broad road, over the hot rocks, and saw
+    Cuicatlan in the distance. Thanks to our <i>arriero</i>, we drew up at Do&ntilde;a
+    Serafina's when it was but 3:40 in the afternoon, having been upon the road eleven
+    hours.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image056.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>CHOCHO HOUSES; COIXTLAHUACA</b></p>
+<br />
+
+
+    <hr style="width: 65%;" />
+    <h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIX" id="CHAPTER_XIX"></a>CHAPTER XIX</h2>
+    <a name="page228" id="page228"/>
+    <h2>HUAUHTLA AND THE MAZATECS</h2>
+    <h3>(1900)</h3>
+    <p>A short ride upon the train, through the hot and dusty valley, brought us to the
+    miserable station of San Antonio, from which, we had been assured, a coach ran daily
+    to Teotitlan del Camino; arrived at the station, no stage was in sight, and we were
+    told that it sometimes came and sometimes not. Accordingly, leaving my companions at
+    the station in care of the baggage, I walked to the village, half a mile away, to see
+    what arrangements could be made for transportation. It was hot, and it seemed
+    difficult to arouse interest on the part of the town authorities. Neither conveyance
+    nor animals were to be had. Accordingly, a foot messenger was sent to Teotitlan,
+    which is a <i>cabecera</i>, asking that some arrangement be made for transporting us.
+    As there was no hurry, and it would be some time before we could receive an answer, I
+    sat under the thatched roof in front of the town-house, resting and enjoying the
+    little breeze which had sprung up. Suddenly the belated coach, itself, came into
+    sight, bound for the station. Starting to mount, the driver told me it was better for
+    me to remain sitting comfortably in the shade, and that he would pick up my
+    companions, of whom, I told him, there were three, and that I could join the company,
+    as they passed. As arrangements had already been made regarding the transportation of
+    the baggage by mules, the advice seemed good, and I remained where I was. A long time
+    passed, and when, at last, the coach arrived, it contained but one passenger, a <a name="page229" id="page229"/>dignified
+    <i>licenciado</i>. When I asked the driver where my companions were, he answered that
+    they had refused to come because I had sent no written order to that effect. I
+    suggested that we should turn back and get them, but to this proposition he gave
+    refusal. Not only so, but the <i>licenciado</i> expressed vexation at the delay which
+    he was suffering, and demanded that we should go on at once. Argument, persuasions,
+    threats were all of no avail, and, as it was necessary that I should see the
+    <i>jefe</i> at the earliest possible moment, I was forced to mount the coach and
+    leave my unfortunate and obedient companions to their fate. For an hour and a half
+    the coach lumbered slowly over a hot and dusty road, which passed between small,
+    bare, gray or brown rock hills, rising to a higher level only a little before we
+    reached Teotitlan itself.</p>
+    <p>Hastening to the <i>jefatura</i>, I discovered that the <i>jefe</i> had gone to
+    Mexico, leaving the <i>presidente</i> of the town as his lieutenant. This man was
+    neither willing, interested, nor efficient. He had little authority, even with his
+    own policemen and townsmen. I requested that the first thing should be to send for my
+    companions and bring them to town within the briefest time. Orders were sent by the
+    policemen to the driver of the coach, that he should return at once to the station;
+    to these orders, he sent the false reply that his coach had broken down, one wheel
+    being completely ruined. After some wrangling and delay, the <i>presidente</i> sent a
+    foot-messenger to San Antonio with orders to the authorities of that village to
+    supply three animals for the travellers. The messenger left at five in the evening.
+    Meantime, we arranged with difficulty for beasts for our further journey. Although we
+    were assured that no animals from the town could accompany us further than the first
+    <i>ranchito</i> in the mountains, named San Bernardino, they assured us that fresh
+    animals could be obtained there <a name="page230"
+    id="page230"/>for the remainder of the journey. Going to the regular
+    hotel in the village, we found the prices higher than in Oaxaca or Puebla, and equal
+    to those of a first-class hotel in Mexico itself. As the landlady seemed to have no
+    disposition to do aught for us, we decided to look elsewhere. At a second so-called
+    hotel we found a single bed. At this point, a bystander suggested that Don Pedro
+    Barrios would probably supply us lodging; hastening to his house, I secured a capital
+    room, opening by one door directly onto the main road, and by another, opposite, onto
+    the large <i>patio</i> of his place. The room was large and clean, and four good cots
+    were soon in place. Having ordered supper at a little eating-house, for four persons,
+    to be ready at seven o'clock, I spent a little time in looking at relics found in the
+    neighborhood. Pottery figures and heads are quite common and frequently painted
+    brilliantly; small heads and ornaments of green-stone are not uncommon; curious clubs
+    of stone for beating bark-paper are also found; objects of gold and silver have been
+    found in ancient graves, near the foot of the mountains, on the outskirts of the
+    village. These were of curious forms and excellent workmanship, and included large
+    ornaments for the ears and pendants for the neck, made of thin sheets of gold;
+    turtles and human skulls cast in a single piece; and most curious of all, odd pieces
+    of filigree where the gold-wire was coiled into strange human heads. One of these was
+    made half of gold and half of silver wire.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image057.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>VIEW OF HUAUHTLA</b></p>
+<br />
+
+    <p>At seven, no sign of my companions had appeared. A policeman went to tell the
+    keeper of the eating-house that we would eat at eight, and, putting my chair outside
+    the open door, I sat in the cool air and watched the people passing in the moonlight.
+    Eight o'clock came, and no companions. The supper hour was postponed to nine. Between
+    nine and ten, Don Pedro and I talked over various<a
+    name="page231" id="page231"/> matters, and at last, yielding to his
+    solicitation, I went to supper, he promising to send my comrades in case they should
+    arrive during my absence. I had just finished supper, at half-past ten, when my three
+    hungry companions arrived, with big appetites for their own meals, and it was after
+    eleven before the party was through its supper.</p>
+    <p>They, themselves, had by no means spent a dull afternoon. The station agent and
+    his lady wife had indulged in a vigorous battle. Both were drunk, shot revolvers
+    recklessly, bit one another, tore hair, and clubbed most vigorously. The man finally
+    took $6,000 in money out of the company's safe and left the station, vowing that he
+    would never be seen again. Though the authorities at San Antonio had received the
+    order to supply animals at six o'clock, it was after nine before they had the beasts
+    ready for the travellers.</p>
+    <p>After an excellent night's rest we started our pack-animals, and were ourselves
+    ready for the journey at nine, when we found that no arrangements had been made for a
+    foot <i>mozo</i> to carry our instruments. This again caused delay and trouble, but
+    at last we were upon the road, and started out through the little village towards the
+    mountains. My animal appeared a beast of vigor and spirit, and my hope ran high. The
+    moment, however, that we struck the climb, matters changed. He then stopped every few
+    yards, breathing as if it were his last gasp. This he kept up for the whole ascent,
+    and there seemed doubt whether he would ever reach the summit. For a long distance,
+    the road followed the side of a gorge in which a fine brook plunged and dashed. We
+    passed and repassed picturesque groups of Mazatec indians with their burdens. The
+    women wore <i>enaguas</i>, the lower part of which was brown, the upper white. Their
+    <i>huipilis</i> are among the most striking we have seen, being made of native
+    cotton, decorated with elaborate embroidered patterns of large size, in pink or red.
+    The favorite design <a name="page232"
+    id="page232"/>is the eagle. Men wore <i>cotones</i> of black or dark
+    blue wool. We had been riding steadily for two hours before we reached San
+    Bernardino, where the <i>mozos</i> and pack animals were changed, and where we rested
+    for a few minutes. We then rode for a long time, gently ascending through forests of
+    pine or oak. Here and there the air-plants on the oak trees were notable. Finally, we
+    mounted to a road along a narrow ridge, like a knife's edge, and from here on had one
+    of the most remarkable roads that I have ever travelled. Keeping continuously upon
+    the crest, we had upon the one side the dry slope, with the pine forest, and on the
+    other the damp slope, densely grown with low oaks, heavily clad with orchids and
+    bromelias and weighted with great bunches of gray moss. The road passed up and down
+    gentle and abrupt slopes separated by level spaces. When we first caught sight of
+    Huauhtla it looked so near, and the road to be traversed was so plain, that we
+    expected to reach the town before three o'clock; but the trail proved drearily long.
+    True, the scenery was magnificent. The great mass of mountains; curious ridges
+    extending out from their flanks; the multitude of horizontal, parallel long roads
+    following these; the little towns, San Geronimo, San Lucas&mdash;all were attractive.
+    From the great slope opposite Huauhtla, the view of the town was most impressive.
+    Before us opened a narrow valley, the depth of which we only realized after we had
+    traversed it. An hour and a half was necessary for making the descent and the
+    up-climb. From the point whence we were looking, the church, town-house, and
+    clustered houses of the village were above us. Below stretched a line of
+    <i>nublina</i>, and beneath it the whole great mountain flank was checkered with the
+    irregular brown and green fields belonging to the villagers. It was already five
+    o'clock when we began the descent from<a name="page233"
+    id="page233"/> this fine view-point, and, on our way down the slope
+    and up the opposite slope to the village, we met great numbers of drunken
+    indians,&mdash;as it was Sunday,&mdash;usually a man and woman together. Two of the
+    men we met had been fighting, and were covered with blood; the face of one of them
+    was livid with the blows which he had received. Many of the parties were noisy and
+    quarrelsome, and some of them showed a tendency to meddle with us, as we passed.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image058.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>MAZATEC HOUSES; HUAUHTLA</b></p>
+<br />
+
+    <p>The greater portion of the journey had been over fine, dry roads; after we reached
+    the knife-edge ridge, however, whenever there was a descent or ascent, we found the
+    road of clay, moist and slippery; in the rainy season these bits would be bad enough.
+    At this time of year they are due to the <i>nublina</i>, great masses of which we saw
+    from the time we reached the crest-road, and, at times, we passed through great
+    sheets of it which cut off all view and which soaked our clothing. Upon our last
+    descent and ascent, we were almost discouraged, and the last half-hour of our journey
+    was made by the light of the moon, struggling through <i>nublina</i>. Though it was
+    dark, when we reached the village, we were impressed with the fineness of the
+    municipal-house, the best constructed we have seen in an indian town. Its location,
+    near the edge of the mountain slope, giving a magnificent outlook over the great
+    valley, is very fine. The houses of the Mazatecs are picturesque. The walls are built
+    of mud, or slabs or posts daubed with mud, while the roofs are thatched with palm.
+    The ridge pole extends, at both ends, in projections which themselves are thatched,
+    forming curious and striking horns. This same mode of thatch, picturesque in the
+    extreme, is also used above the little granaries which are raised, on poles, several
+    feet above the ground, in order to keep the contents from the attacks of animals.
+    Huauhtla is a large town. The village and its immediate dependencies have <a name="page234" id="page234"/>a population of 7000.
+    Until lately the town was jealous of visits from outside, and little inclined to
+    hospitality towards travellers. If this were formerly true, it has ceased to be so.
+    We were received most heartily; the large and enthusiastic town government, after
+    learning our errand, expressed their willingness to aid us in every way. They at once
+    cleared a fine large room in the town-house for our occupancy, prepared four beds of
+    boards covered with <i>petates</i>, and brought from the priest's house, hard by,
+    blankets, sheets, and pillows for my own use. Arrangements were also made for our
+    eating with the priest, Padre Manzano, with whom we fared in truly regal fashion. In
+    the days we stayed at Huauhtla, there were no delays in our work and everything went
+    in orderly fashion. It is true, our subjects for busts were an awkward and trying
+    lot. The first subject broke the back-piece of the mould to fragments, and, when the
+    plaster was being applied to his face, he opened his mouth and talked, opened his
+    eyes, and drew out his nose-tubes, with the result that eyes, nose and mouth were all
+    filled with the soft mixture, and it was all that we could do to clean him without
+    damage. As for trying to take his bust again, that was quite out of the question. The
+    second subject was all right, until the last application had been made, when he
+    turned in the partly hardened mould with truly disastrous results. The third one
+    acted so awkwardly that a piece of mould, which should have come off singly, was
+    taken off in ten fragments.</p>
+    <p>The dress of the Mazatec women is elaborate and striking, both <i>enagua</i> and
+    <i>huip&iacute;l</i> being made from the cotton woven by themselves. At the base of
+    the <i>enagua</i> is a broad and heavy band of wool, embroidered in geometrical
+    patterns, the color being cochineal. Above these bands, there are embroideries in the
+    same colored wool, animal and human figures, and geometrical designs. Un<a name="page235" id="page235"/>fortunately,
+    cochineal, while brilliant, is by no means permanent, a single washing of the garment
+    spreading the color through the white texture. The <i>huipilis</i> are ornamented
+    frequently with red, purple and crimson ribbons, bought in stores in the town, which
+    are sewed to the garment in such a fashion as to divide it into rectangular spaces.
+    These, in turn, are occupied with the elaborate large patterns in pink representing
+    the eagle and other designs already described. It is uncommon among Mexican indians
+    to find a native use of silk. Here, however, silk-worms are reared and carry-cloths,
+    kerchiefs and belts are woven from their product. These are worn by both men and
+    women. The mode of wearing the hair among the Mazatec women is in two broad, flat
+    braids hanging down the back. The women made no demur whatever to being measured, but
+    everyone, who presented herself for the operation, came dressed in her best clothing,
+    with her hair elaborately braided, and showed serious disappointment and
+    dissatisfaction if not invited to be photographed.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image059a.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>MAZATEC WOMEN; HUAUHTLA</b></p>
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image059b.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>HEAVY BRAIDS; MAZATEC WOMEN; HUAUHTLA</b></p>
+<br />
+
+    <p>The town has a most curious reputation, as devoted to commerce, and not to manual
+    labor. In fact, it is considered disgraceful for a man of Huauhtla to indulge in
+    work. The people of San Lucas, the nearest town, and a dependency, are, on the other
+    hand, notably industrious, and it is they who carry burdens and do menial work for
+    the lordly Huauhtla people. Mrs. de Butrie told us that she tried in vain to get a
+    cook in the village. The woman was satisfied to cook and found no fault with the
+    wages offered, but refused the job because it involved the carrying of water, and she
+    feared lest she might be seen at such ignoble labor. Mr. de Butrie a while ago bought
+    a set of shelves from a man who had them in his house. As they were dirty, he
+    suggested that they must be cleaned before he would receive them. The seller said,
+    very well, he would send for a man <a name="page236"
+    id="page236"/>of San Lucas to clean them. It was only lately that
+    they condescended to carry stuff to Teotitlan to sell. In the town-house they cherish
+    two much-prized possessions, the <i>titulo</i> and <i>mapa</i> of the town. The
+    former is the grant made by the Spanish government to this village, in the year 1763.
+    It is an excellently preserved document in parchment and the old writing is but
+    little faded. As for the <i>mapa</i>, it is a strip of native, coarse cotton cloth,
+    seven feet by three feet nine inches in size, with a landscape map of the surrounding
+    country painted upon it in red, yellow, black and brown. It is a quaint piece of
+    painting, with mountains valleys, streams, caves, trees, houses, churches and
+    villages represented on it with fair exactness. It was probably painted at the same
+    time that the <i>titulo</i> was given to the village.</p>
+    <p>The morning after our arrival, we witnessed a quadruple indian wedding in the
+    church at seven. The brides were magnificent in the brilliant <i>huipilis</i>, and
+    the godmothers were almost as much so, with their fine embroideries. The ceremony was
+    much like that at Coixtlahuaca, already described. The bride put a silver ring upon
+    the groom's finger, and he did the same by her; the priest put money into the man's
+    hands, he transferred this to the woman, and she to the priest; single chains were
+    hung about the neck of each of the party, both men and women; the covering sheet or
+    scarf was stretched over all four couples at once, covering the heads of the women
+    and the shoulders of the men.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image060a.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>MAZATEC FROM SAN LUCAS</b></p>
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image060b.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>MAZATEC FROM SAN LUCAS</b></p>
+<br />
+
+    <p>Near the town-house, along the main street, is a series of sheds or shacks used as
+    shops, altogether numerically disproportionate to the population. Great was our
+    surprise to find that one of these was kept by a Frenchman, who spoke excellent
+    English, and who is married to an English lady. They were the only white people
+    living in this great indian<a name="page237"
+    id="page237"/>town. Monsieur de Butrie has a coffee plantation in the
+    valley a few miles away, at Chichotla, but he finds the climate bad for himself and
+    lady. Accordingly, they had moved up onto the high land, and it is easy for him, when
+    he must give attention to his <i>finca</i>, to go to it for the necessary time. They
+    have some pretty children and are doing well. We called at their house, quite like
+    the others of the town, and were hospitably received with chocolate and sweet English
+    cakes. During our stay, this gentleman and his wife did their utmost for our comfort,
+    and gave us many interesting bits of information regarding the people, their customs
+    and their superstitions. We have elsewhere described in detail their witchcraft
+    practices, their belief in transformation into tigers, and their ideas regarding the
+    destiny and condition of persons after death.</p>
+    <p>Just across the way from the town-house, was a large house of the usual fashion,
+    which we quickly learned was the rendezvous and practice-place of the town band. This
+    consisted entirely of boys, none of them more than twenty years of age, and numbered
+    upwards of thirty pieces. The leader was a man of forty, a capital trainer. The daily
+    practice began at 4:30 in the morning, and was kept up until noon; then ensued an
+    hour's rest. At one, they were again practicing, and no break occurred until long
+    after dark. During the days that we were there, a single piece only was being
+    practiced. It was our alarm clock in the morning, beat time for our work throughout
+    the day, and lulled us to sleep when we retired for the night. Se&ntilde;or de Butrie
+    insists that during the year and more than he has lived in the village, several boys
+    have blown themselves, through consumption, into early graves. Our pleasant stay at
+    Huauhtla came to an equally pleasant termination. Having stated the number of animals
+    and human carriers necessary, and the hour at which we wished to start, we <a name="page238" id="page238"/>found every
+    preparation made on awaking in the morning, and at 6:25, after an excellent breakfast
+    with Padre Manzano, we sallied forth. Six human carriers bore our busts and baggage,
+    and four capital horses carried us rapidly over the good road. It was a magnificent
+    morning, but later in the day, as the sun rose, it became hot. We arrived at three in
+    the afternoon with our carriers close behind. The following morning we forgave the
+    crabbed <i>cochero</i> at Teotitlan sufficiently to take his stage coach for San
+    Antonio, where we arrived in fifty minutes, having two hours to wait before the
+    north-bound train took us towards Puebla.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image061.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>THE BAND; MAZATEC BOYS AT HUAUHTLA</b></p>
+<br />
+
+    <hr style="width: 65%;" />
+    <h2><a name="CHAPTER_XX" id="CHAPTER_XX"></a>CHAPTER XX</h2>
+    <a name="page239" id="page239"/>
+    <h2>TEPEHUAS AND TOTONACS</h2>
+    <h3>(1900)</h3>
+    <p>Leaving Puebla on the early morning train, and taking the Pachuca branch at
+    Ometusco, we changed cars at Tepa onto the narrow-gauge Hidalgo road for Tulancingo,
+    which took us by a winding course through a great <i>magu&eacute;y</i> country. After
+    two hours of riding, in the latter part of which we were within sight of a pretty
+    lakelet, we reached Tulancingo. Broad avenues, bordered with handsome trees,
+    connected the station with the town, in the <i>plaza</i> of which we shortly found
+    ourselves. This <i>plaza</i> consists of a large square, planted with trees, with an
+    open space before it, and is surrounded by various shops and the great church. It is
+    pretentious, but desolate. In front of the treed space, were temporary booths erected
+    for the carnival, in which <i>dulces, aguas frescas</i>, and <i>cascarones</i> were
+    offered for sale. Hawkers on the streets were selling <i>cascarones</i>, some of
+    which were quite elaborate. The simplest were egg-shells, dyed and stained in
+    brilliant colors, and filled with bits of cut paper; these were broken upon the heads
+    of persons as they passed, setting loose the bits of paper which became entangled in
+    the hair and scattered over the clothing. Some had, pasted over the open ends, little
+    conical caps of colored tissue-paper. Others consisted of a lyre-shaped frame, with
+    an eggshell in the center of the open part. Some had white birds, single or in pairs,
+    hovering over the upper end. The carnival was on in full force, and we saw frequent
+    bands of maskers.<a name="page240"
+    id="page240"/> They went in companies of a dozen or so, dressed like
+    clowns, with their clothing spotted and striped with red. Their faces were concealed
+    by cloth. They walked rapidly, almost ran, through the streets. They spoke to no one,
+    and did nothing except to keep up a loud and constant trilling of the most ridiculous
+    kind. Packs of youngsters chased behind and crowded upon them; they also pelted them
+    with stones, and the head of one of the maskers was bleeding quite profusely, but he
+    still kept up his headlong run and trilling. We had counted upon the assistance of
+    the <i>jefe</i>, but found him too dignified to receive us outside of office hours,
+    and therefore we arranged the matter of our transportation to Huachinango. The price
+    was high, the coach inconvenient, and the <i>cochero</i> unaccommodating. In vain we
+    tried to have all of our plaster taken in the load with us; only one-half could go,
+    the balance must follow the succeeding day. Finally, at about ten in the morning, we
+    lumbered heavily away, and were soon out of the town, passing through a brown, hilly
+    district, at first devoted to <i>pulque</i> plantations, but further along becoming
+    fine pastureland. Neat fields, separated by bands of yellow, unplowed stubble, and
+    true farm-houses of good size, were striking features. We passed through quantities
+    of pine groves, and everywhere a cold wind blew strongly in our faces. At one place,
+    we were obliged to dismount and walk, on account of the sharp descent, and found
+    ourselves upon an ugly piece of limestone or sandstone rock, which soon, to our
+    surprise, we found replaced by a solid mass of obsidian. The <i>cochero</i>, says
+    that the place is known as <i>itzlis</i>&mdash;the obsidians, the knives. It was 2:30
+    when we reached Aguazotepec, where we called upon the <i>presidente</i>, and engaged
+    a <i>mozo</i>, for a <i>peso</i>, to convey our instruments the balance of the
+    journey, as we were completely tired out with carrying them upon our knees. We also
+    arranged <a name="page241" id="page241"/>with
+    that official to forward the balance of our stuff to Huachinango the following day.
+    We also arranged to pay for horses from Aguazotepec to Huachinango. Having eaten an
+    excellent dinner, when ready for resuming our journey, we discovered, with surprise,
+    that the stage was still our conveyance to Venta Colorado, only a league from
+    Huachinango. There we were to secure the animals for which we had paid, though we
+    were warned that only three could be supplied. Manuel and Louis at once tossed coins
+    to see which should ride first. Although we had paid the full cost of the coach, two
+    other passengers were crowded in upon us, and the man, for whom we had paid the
+    <i>peso</i> to carry our instruments, ran alongside the coach on foot, throwing
+    stones at the mules, while we had again the pleasure of carrying the instruments and
+    boxes on our knees. The country through which we rode was much as before. For some
+    time we passed through a fine pine forest; then we made a deep descent into a valley,
+    at the bottom of which flowed a large stream, which was bridged by a grand old
+    structure of stone and cement. This descent, and the opposite ascent, we were obliged
+    to make on foot, as the approaches were bad. We have been impressed strongly with the
+    fact that everywhere in Mexico the worst bits of road are those which, in old Spanish
+    days, were handsomely and well paved; and which, during the disturbed period of the
+    early Republic, were neglected and allowed to go to decay. It is depressing to see so
+    many evidences of past magnificence and present poverty. It was almost dusk when,
+    after skirting the edge of a deep gorge, we reached a piece of bad road, where the
+    coach with difficulty made its way, with frightful jolts and pitchings, till we drew
+    up at Venta Colorado. Here the coach was finally abandoned. Our animals were packed
+    and mounted, and after fussing and quarreling with our ugly<a
+    name="page242" id="page242"/> <i>cochero</i> as to whether he or we
+    should carry the bulk of our baggage, we started. The distance was not great. It was
+    down hill, and we had to pick our way with great care over the rough road, filled
+    with loosened and separated blocks of ancient paving.</p>
+    <p>This district, in one respect, reminded us of the Tarascan country. Every house
+    along the road was a sales-place, where drinks, cigarettes, fruit and bread were
+    offered, and each had the little boarded window, open when sales were solicited, and
+    closed when business stopped. The houses, too, were log structures with shingled
+    four-pitched roofs, and the houses in the town were well built, cement-walled, with
+    low-sloped, far projecting tile roofs supported on trimmed beams. One might as well
+    have been in Patzcuaro, Uruapan, or Chilchota. Again the <i>cochero</i>; we had told
+    him that the stuff should go to the <i>jefatura</i>, and not to the hotel; he told us
+    with great insolence that the <i>jefatura</i> was closed, and that it would be
+    impossible to see the <i>jefe</i> and that the stuff would remain at the hotel; he
+    followed us, when we went to the <i>jefe's</i> house, and great was his surprise when
+    he found our order efficacious. We had a long talk with the <i>jefe</i>, who told us
+    that few indians lived in the town, and that none of them were Totonacs; he assured
+    us that, though there were no Totonacs in Huachinango, we could find them in
+    abundance at Pahuatlan, to which he recommended us to go. The nearest indian town to
+    Huachinango is Chiconcuauhtla, but it is Aztec. The next day was spent in town,
+    waiting for our other baggage, and for the <i>jefe</i> to arrange our orders and lay
+    out our journey. My day of fever was on, and I spent it mostly in bed. There were
+    many indians in the market, most of whom were Aztecs, though a few were Otomis. The
+    men wore dark brown or black <i>cotones</i>; the <i>enaguas</i> of the women were
+    wool and were dark blue or black. Many <a name="page243"
+    id="page243"/>carried on their shoulders carry-pouches, consisting of
+    two rectangular frames of sticks, corded together along the lower side, and kept from
+    opening too widely, above, by a net of cords at the ends. The indians of
+    Chiconcuauhtla are easily recognized by their little flat, round caps. Late in the
+    afternoon the bands of maskers, here called the <i>huehuetes</i>, were out. There
+    were a dozen of them, dressed in absurd costumes; a bewhiskered Englishman in loud
+    clothing, a gentleman, a clown, a lady, etc. These all went, by twos, on horseback; a
+    clown and a devil and a boy with a prod, on foot, accompanied them. The duty of the
+    latter, who remotely resembled death, was to prod the unhappy devil. They were
+    accompanied by noisy crowds the several times they made the rounds of the town,
+    keeping up the peculiar trilling, which we had noticed at Tulancingo. At dusk, these
+    maskers dismounted and promenaded in couples about the <i>plaza</i>.</p>
+    <p>Nowhere, as in this region, have we had so much difficulty with regard to animals.
+    The demands were so exorbitant that we insisted upon the <i>jefe</i> making the
+    arrangements. He received us in anything but a pleasant mood, but acceded, and
+    finally we secured four horses and four mules, for which we were to pay for two full
+    days, and a foot <i>mozo</i> to whom we also were to pay two full days' wages. As the
+    <i>jefe</i> himself had made this arrangement, we consented to it, but the man who
+    was outfitting us then demanded pay for the <i>mozo</i> who went to bring back the
+    horses and for the fodder of the animals. At this, even the <i>jefe</i> balked,
+    declaring that he was not in favor of really robbing the gentlemen. Paying him the
+    seventeen dollars and twenty-five cents, in order that there might be no further
+    discussion, we started. Just as we left, the man who supplied the animals decided
+    that our loads, which before had been so large, were really not too large for three
+    mules, which num<a name="page244" id="page244"/>
+    ber was actually sent with us, though we had paid for four. We were ready for
+    starting at seven, but it was ten before we left. Meantime, clouds had gathered, and
+    just as we started, rain began. There were first several separate showers, and then a
+    steady downpour, which lasted almost till we reached Pahuatlan. All the blankets had
+    been packed away, and we rode through the rain until our clothes were drenched
+    through and through. For three hours this continued, and it was impossible to see
+    anything of the country through which we passed. Finally, however, as we reached a
+    great crest, and looked down into the valley beyond, the sky was clear and we could
+    see something of the scene about us. The descent we were to make, and the slope in
+    front, were covered with sugar-cane, broken here and there by great patches of
+    pineapples. With each plantation of sugar-cane there was a little shelter of poles
+    under which was a sap-trough or boiling-tank, while at the side of and behind the
+    shelter was a rude mill, the power for which was furnished by a yoke of oxen. Boys
+    fed the fresh cane between the crushing rollers, and the sap, as it ran out, was
+    carried in little troughs to vats. Not at all these little shelters was sugar-making
+    in progress, as we passed, but over both slopes many columns of smoke indicated
+    places where the work was going on. The fire in the vat kept the sap boiling, and a
+    man standing near with a great ladle, pierced with holes, kept dipping up and pouring
+    out the hot sap. When we started up the great ascent we had no hint of Pahuatlan,
+    and, when we reached the summit, could see nothing of it. But hardly had we begun the
+    descent before we saw the large and handsome town below, but still with a long slope
+    and a sharp ascent to be passed, before we could reach it. From the brook-side, at
+    the bottom of the valley, almost to the village itself, we passed through a dense
+    growth of bananas, which seemed <a name="page245"
+    id="page245"/>to have suffered some damage, as many were dry and
+    yellow, and individual leaves were curiously tattered and jagged. Among them grew
+    other plants, coffee, orange-trees, peaches, and cane. When we reached the town, my
+    heart sank; a church with handsome dome and modern tower, a planted <i>plaza</i> with
+    central fountain, buildings, of two stories with gaudy fronts and <i>portales</i>,
+    surrounding three sides of the square, augured better for comfort while we were in
+    the place, than for work on Totonacs. We rode up to the <i>municipio</i>, where we
+    found the <i>presidente</i>, a rather stylish young fellow, who was interested in our
+    work and helpful. The town controls fourteen thousand persons, and its name is
+    derived from that of a large <i>ahuacate</i>, the Aztec name of which is
+    <i>pahuatl</i>. The <i>presidente</i> assured us that there was no Totonac town,
+    properly speaking, within the limits of the <i>municipio</i>. For all this district,
+    Orozco y Berra makes many errors. Atla, which he lists as Totonac, is really Aztec.
+    The <i>presidente</i>, upon a local map, showed us the interesting way in which
+    natural barriers limit idioms. Two little streams, coming together at an acute angle,
+    may divide three languages&mdash;one being spoken in the angle and one on either
+    side. In Tlaxco, a small village in this <i>municipio</i>, four idioms are
+    spoken&mdash;Aztec, Otomi, Totonac and Tepehua.</p>
+    <p>Two years before, just as my work was ending, we were in the great Otomi town of
+    Huixquilucan, in the state of Mexico. While resting at midday, I noticed a
+    neatly-dressed and clean young indian, plainly not Otomi, with whom I conversed. He
+    was an Aztec, and much interested in the work we were doing. In our conversation, he
+    told me that I would find much of interest in the state of Hidalgo, and particularly
+    called my attention to the making of paper from bark, which he had observed in the
+    town of San Gregorio, two years before. This particularly interested me, and I then
+    <a name="page246" id="page246"/> made notes
+    regarding the method of getting to San Gregorio. I was advised by him, in case of
+    going to that place, to talk with Don Pablo Leyra, of Huehuetla, who was himself an
+    Indian and a man of consequence in the district&mdash;a sort of <i>cacique</i> among
+    his people. Several years ago, I had first learned from Se&ntilde;or Eurosa, a
+    Mexican Protestant clergyman, that in the little town of Tlacuilotepec, there still
+    survive interesting pagan practices. In planning our present journey, I had arranged
+    to visit San Gregorio and Tlacuilotepec for the purpose of investigating this
+    manufacture of paper and these pagan customs. Inquiring of the <i>presidente</i> of
+    Pahuatlan about his indians, I asked regarding paper-beating, and discovered that it
+    was done at the nearest indian village of San Pablito, Otomi. We were told that bark
+    of several species of trees was used&mdash;<i>jonote</i>, dragon, and mulberry; that
+    the paper is usually made secretly and in-doors; that the passing traveller can hear
+    the sound of light and rapid pounding as he passes through the village; that it is
+    made in every house, and the proper season is when the sap runs, April to June; San
+    Pablito is the only village in the <i>municipio</i> where it is made. It is used in
+    <i>brujer&iacute;a</i> (witchcraft); other paper can be bought much cheaper, but only
+    this kind is serviceable. It is cut into <i>mu&ntilde;ecos</i>; representing human
+    beings and horses and other animals, and these are used to work injury to human
+    beings and beasts, being buried in front of the house or in the <i>corral</i>. The
+    judge, who was sitting by, told us that a prisoner brought before him for trial was
+    found to carry such a paper figure, which was sewed through the body with thread and
+    had its lips sewed also; he learned that this figure represented himself, and that
+    the lips were sewed to prevent him from pronouncing judgment on the prisoner. They
+    assured me that the nearest point for finding Totonacs or Tepehuas, in sufficient
+    numbers for my pur<a name="page247"
+    id="page247"/>pose, was in the district of Tenango del Doria, where,
+    at Huehuetla, we would find the largest Tepehua town, and that in Pantepec, which is
+    in the district of Hauchinango, and near Huehuetla, we would find Totonacs. We had
+    had such ill success in locating Totonacs so far, that, at our suggestion, they
+    telephoned to the <i>jefe</i> at Tenango inquiring regarding the populations of
+    Huehuetla and Pantepec, with the result that we decided to visit those towns.</p>
+    <p>At Tulancingo, we had been snubbed by the <i>jefe</i>, who would not treat with us
+    outside of office hours. When the <i>presidente</i> of Pahuatlan took us to the house
+    where arrangements had been made for our accommodation, we found a garrulous,
+    simple-minded, individual who was set to clear our room and make our beds. To myself,
+    as leader of the company, he was attentive and ceremonious in the highest degree, and
+    on several occasions he took my companions to task for their ignorance regarding the
+    proper deference to display toward me. He inquired whether we were acquainted with
+    Se&ntilde;or Arroyo, <i>jefe politico</i> of Tulancingo, and then informed us, with
+    pride that that gentleman was his "Se&ntilde;or Padre." "If so, Se&ntilde;ors, you
+    may well ask why you see me thus dressed in <i>calzoncillos</i>. For two reasons:
+    first, I am not a legitimate son, no, Se&ntilde;ors, my lady mother, who bore me was
+    an Otomi indian, but I am the acknowledged illegitimate son of my honored
+    Se&ntilde;or Padre. Second, I had the misfortune to be involved in trouble in the
+    district of Del Doria, which forced me to flee from that district to escape the
+    <i>jefe</i>. But, sir, my Se&ntilde;or Padre said to me, 'son, I am the <i>jefe
+    politico</i> of Tulancingo and the governor of the State is Pedro L. Rodriguez; I am
+    his intimate friend, and we shall succeed in ousting that <i>jefe</i> in Tenango del
+    Doria who has ordered your arrest.'" He also told us of one time, when his
+    Se&ntilde;or Padre and an inspector visited that unfortunate district as an
+    investigat<a name="page248" id="page248"/>ing
+    committee, and found the <i>jefe</i> guilty and put him in jail <i>incomunicado</i>.
+    He also told us of the band of Pahuatlan, justly famous, which made so great an
+    impression in one town it visited, that it determined to go to Tulancingo to serenade
+    the <i>jefe</i> of that district, his honored Se&ntilde;or Padre. "And I was invited,
+    sir, not that I am a musician or know one note from another, but because I am of the
+    family of the gentleman who was to be honored, and as a mark of distinguished favor
+    to both members of the family. The band played so beautifully, that it was not
+    allowed to stop until half-past-eleven at night, when it retired in great triumph."
+    All this was very interesting, the first time it was told us, but the natural son
+    remained while we ate supper, and afterwards, following us to our sleeping-room, kept
+    up the repetition until two were already in bed and asleep and the others wished to
+    be, when, finally, we turned him out and locked the door upon him for the night. We
+    have stated that we paid for four animals to bring our baggage hither, while but
+    three were actually employed; the animals, both pack and passenger, started on their
+    journey for Huachinango at half-past-four in the afternoon, though we had paid both
+    beast and man two full days' wages.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image062a.jpg" /></p>
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image062b.jpg" /></p>
+<br />
+
+
+    <p>Tlacuilotepec is a dependency of Pahuatlan. We started for our day's trip thither
+    on a good lot of animals, at eight o'clock in the morning, with two foot <i>mozos</i>
+    for carriers. The journey was delightful. For a little, we followed a trail down the
+    left-hand bank of a fine ravine. Nearly at the foot we struck to the left, through a
+    little cut, and were surprised to find ourselves upon the right-hand slope of another
+    gulf of immense depth. A few minutes later, we reached the point where the two
+    streams united. And from there on, for a long time, we followed the bottom of a great
+    gorge. The rock walls were bold and often sheer, and the upper line of mountain
+    horizon was graceful and<a name="page249"
+    id="page249"/> varied. The cliffs were mostly limestone, and presented
+    remarkable examples of folding and dislocation. The long roots of trees, following
+    exposed rock surfaces downward for yards, and twisting and bending to find lodgment
+    in the crevices, were curious. Great tufts of a plant with long, narrow, light-green
+    leaves hung down along vertical rock faces. In little caverns, at the foot of cliffs,
+    were damp spots filled with ferns and broad-leaved caladiums, and brilliant clusters
+    of begonias in bloom. At several places, the water of springs or underground streams
+    gushed forth, in natural rock-basins, or from under projecting ledges. At one spot,
+    there was a dainty basin of limestone into which a pretty veil of spring water fell
+    gracefully. We crossed and recrossed the stream many times. Everywhere we were within
+    sound of the creaking sugar-mills, and in sight of the ladling of boiled sap;
+    everywhere we met <i>arrieros</i> driving animals loaded with little loaves of native
+    sugar; everywhere the forest was broken with little patches of sugar-cane, growing on
+    the slopes. Here and there, we saw cables slung across the streams, for passing
+    cargoes at high water. At one place was a fine display of basaltic columns, the
+    position of which was horizontal, the flow having come up as a sheet injected from
+    below, and not as a surface out-flow, where the jointage would have been vertical.
+    Finally, leaving this beautiful ravine, we made a rapid ascent, passing a little
+    village consisting almost wholly of a school, noisy with study, and a church, with a
+    separate square tower. Shortly after reaching the summit, and dipping slightly, we
+    found Tlacuilotepec. It is not a large town. At its center <i>mestizo,</i> it has
+    charge of several indian villages. We had been referred for information concerning
+    surviving paganism to a Se&ntilde;or Martinez. We were interested in finding that the
+    <i>presidente</i> of the town was a brother of this gentleman, and that both were
+    Protestants.<a name="page250" id="page250"/> We
+    were received with great cordiality, not only on account of our official
+    introduction, but also because we brought an unofficial introduction from Protestant
+    friends. Two charming beds were arranged in the little meeting-place in Se&ntilde;or
+    Martinez's own house, and two others, almost as good, were secured for the others of
+    the party, in the little <i>meson</i> of the village. As we chatted, we were
+    refreshed with a delicious orange-wine, which is made here, and during our days spent
+    with Don Quirino, we had meals fit for a king. The indians under his charge are
+    Otomis, and in one little village, Santa Maria, Totonac. When we came to inquire
+    regarding the pagan practice for which we were searching, we learned that it was
+    peculiar to the Otomis, and formed their annual <i>costumbre</i>&mdash;custom. They
+    believe that Montezuma is to come again. Meantime, from him come health, crops, and
+    all good things. Their <i>costumbre</i> is a feast given in his honor, of which he is
+    believed to partake. A <i>jac&aacute;l</i>&mdash;hut&mdash;is prepared in a retired
+    spot; a table is constructed full length of the house within, and upon this a feast
+    is spread of which all partake.</p>
+    <p>Upon this table they place many <i>mu&ntilde;ecos</i> of paper; formerly these
+    were made of the bark paper, but they are now made of ordinary paper bought in the
+    stores. There may be so many of these that they cover the table an inch or two thick.
+    The feasters shove money, usually small pieces of silver, beneath these figures. They
+    then kill turkeys and hens and chickens, and sprinkle the blood from the headless
+    bodies over the <i>mu&ntilde;ecos</i>. This they do that Montezuma may be
+    propitiated, and give them what they desire; the money and the
+    <i>mu&ntilde;ecos</i>, sprinkled with blood, are left upon the table after the feast,
+    the former being stolen by passing <i>mestizos</i>.</p>
+    <p>The <i>presidente</i> stated that, at the <i>pueblito</i> of Santa Maria, where we
+    should go upon the morrow to see some Toto<a name="page251"
+    id="page251"/>nacs, they had just celebrated their annual
+    <i>costumbre</i>. He said that it might be somewhat similar, as they had sent him a
+    headless turkey, as a gift. In the morning, we visited this village accompanied by
+    the two brothers. A half hour's ride brought us to the spot, from which one gets one
+    of the most lovely views in all this picturesque country. Standing on the end of a
+    little spur upon which the village lies, one sees the handsome river below, which
+    separates this <i>municipio</i> from that of Villa Juarez. To the left, rise
+    magnificent mountains covered with brilliant green vegetation, broken here and there
+    by bare rock faces, from the base of which gentle slopes, extending down to the
+    river, are covered with little corn-fields. Cuauhtepec, a Totonac pueblo, where all
+    are said to dress in white, lies upon this stream, and immediately back from it the
+    cultivated fields of the village stretch up to the very crest. To the right, is seen
+    the little ranch Tanchitla, with its fields, a strip of green forest separating these
+    from the fields of the next village, Tlapajualla. The stream abounds in fish of
+    various kinds, which form an important food supply. They are, however, rapidly being
+    destroyed by the practice of exploding dynamite cartridges in the water, by which not
+    only the adult fish, but the young, of all ages, are killed. Unless the practice soon
+    ceases, and there are rigid laws against it, there will soon be no fish left in any
+    of the streams of this whole region. This particular stream bears different names in
+    different portions of its course&mdash;thus it is called Tanchitla, Pahuatlan, San
+    Marcos, Caxones, Xico, etc.</p>
+    <p>Having noticed that here, as at Pahuatlan, the banana trees were badly injured, we
+    learned that this havoc was the result of two recent hail-storms, which were felt
+    over a wide area, and which were of almost unexampled severity. By the time we had
+    enjoyed the outlook, and learned a little of the village, the messenger who had been
+    sent to call the <a name="page252"
+    id="page252"/>people together had performed his duty, and a
+    picturesque group of our long-sought Totonacs were at hand. The women wear
+    <i>quichiquemils</i> of native cotton cloth, the neck opening of which is over-hemmed
+    with black wool. Lines of crosses, rosettes, birds, etc., are worked in
+    various-colored wools upon them. Many of them have a broad line of color, in
+    geometrical combinations, running vertically up the middle. The men wear
+    <i>cotones</i> of black and white.</p>
+    <p>Twenty-five or thirty of the more important men of the village were now taken to
+    the schoolhouse, where the <i>presidente</i> inquired, for me, in regard to the
+    <i>costumbre</i>. At first a little hesitancy was shown, but soon all were interested
+    and talked freely. The <i>costumbre</i> comes at about the same time each year,
+    though not upon a fixed date. Its purpose is to secure health, good weather and crops
+    for the coming year, though it may be held on the occasion of pestilence. Everyone,
+    even widows and old maids, brings something for the feast. The celebration is held in
+    some large house, and lasts through two days; floral decorations are arranged in the
+    four corners of the room, candles are lighted, and <i>copal</i> is burned. The first
+    day, each person brings a handful of earth from his field, which is placed in a heap
+    upon the floor. Fowls and animals are slaughtered for the occasion; their heads are
+    cut off and their blood is sprinkled upon the earth. After feasting and drinking, a
+    dance follows, the dancers wearing crowns and necklaces of yellow arnica flowers, and
+    carry in their hands wands made of pine-splints wrapped with corn-husks, and with a
+    flower of arnica tied to each end. The second day, corn on the ear and beans are
+    brought instead of earth, and these are sprinkled with blood. On both days,
+    blood-sprinkled material is carried home, and the seed and earth are later put into
+    the field. In the feasting-room, two paper lanterns are hung from the ceiling; these
+    are stuck over with gilt <a name="page253"
+    id="page253"/>and colored paper disks and stars. They represent the
+    sun and stars. Upon these lanterns a cross of blood is made, at the time when the
+    earth and seed are sprinkled. After the dance ends on the second day, children shoot
+    at the lanterns with small arrows and try to break them. Disappointed that no mention
+    had been made of bark paper in connection with this ceremonial, we asked whether they
+    ever used it. They answered promptly in the affirmative. For what? To wrap
+    <i>ocotes</i>. With this, the man who told me hastened out and came back with a
+    little parcel in his hand. This consisted of twelve little sticks of pine about three
+    inches long; they were tied together with a band of thread or bark fibre, and were
+    stained with blood; these were wrapped in a piece of green banana leaf, the upper
+    face of the leaf being placed inside and the base of the leaf kept downward. When it
+    had been thus carefully folded, it was carried to the field and buried in a hole,
+    carefully dug, so that the top of the package was close to the surface of the ground,
+    and the face of the leaf wrapping was directed toward the rising sun. To anyone who
+    has studied American indian religions, these two <i>costumbres</i> suggest much of
+    interest.</p>
+    <p>The young man who had been most interested in our proper understanding of the
+    <i>costumbre</i> was anxious that we should see the village idols. These are kept
+    concealed, apparently in a cave, though it is possible that they are buried in the
+    ground. At all events, they exist, and in considerable number. A lively discussion
+    ensued as to whether it would be proper to show them to us, and it was decided that
+    nothing ought to be done until the old woman, who is at the head of the pagan
+    practices of the village, should be present. It seems that in the <i>costumbre</i>,
+    already described, there are four priests or leaders. One of these is the old woman
+    just mentioned, and the other three are men. She was sent for, and while we waited,
+    we were told that, if we <a name="page254"
+    id="page254"/>desired to see the lanterns that were used in the last
+    <i>costumbre</i>, they were still preserved in the <i>santocalli. Santocalli</i> is a
+    mongrel word&mdash;from Spanish <i>santo</i>, saint, and the Aztec <i>calli</i>,
+    house. It was a little structure of adobe and canes, close to the schoolhouse, and
+    fronting with it upon the little <i>plaza</i> of the village. It had a two-pitched
+    thatched roof and a single door in the front. After some demur, it was opened, and we
+    entered. It consisted of a single plain room with two benches made of beams along the
+    wall. At the back was a terrible Christ and Virgin, and, to the right and behind,
+    another Virgin. These Virgin figures were both small and unattractive, and both wore
+    <i>quichiquemils</i>. In front of the Christ and larger Virgin was a simple altar
+    built against the wall. In the floor, directly in front of it, were four small
+    hollows. To the right of the altar, a flat stone was set into the floor. In front of
+    the altar stood a small table on which were censers and candle-sticks. Underneath
+    this table, the space between the four legs was occupied by a heap of ashes; in front
+    and behind this were ill-defined basin hollows. To beams in front of these were hung
+    the almost globular paper lanterns already mentioned. When we had seen these
+    lanterns, and were about to leave, the old <i>bruja</i> appeared, with her female
+    acolyte. She was furious over the desecration of strangers entering the
+    <i>santocalli</i>, without her presence. She was a striking figure; very small, with
+    a wrinkled, shrewd and serious, but not unkind, face; her white hair was almost
+    concealed by her <i>rebozo</i>, which was folded square and laid upon her head with a
+    portion flowing behind. The most striking thing was her great devotion, and complete
+    unconcern regarding all around her. Entering, she hastened to the altar,
+    knelt,&mdash;touched her forehead to the edge&mdash;and in a clear but not loud voice
+    crooned an impassioned cry to Christ, to San Jose and to the Virgin.<a name="page255" id="page255"/> Imperiously turning
+    to her acolyte, she seized the censer filled with copal, and, having lighted it,
+    incensed the figures. Turning to the <i>presidente</i>, she asked whether he were
+    going to placate the saint for invasion by giving <i>aguardiente</i> and candles,
+    both of which appeared, as if by magic, when she was given money. Pouring
+    <i>aguardiente</i> from the bottle into a glass, she poured into the four basins in
+    the ground before the altar, before the Virgin, before and behind the heaps of ashes
+    under the table, and then placed it to the lips of the Virgin and Christ, lovingly
+    requesting them to partake. She then compelled each of the three men priests to make
+    the same libation. Taking the unlighted candles, she made passes with them, over and
+    across the figures, first to one side and then to the other, brushing the wicks
+    against them. This, too, had to be done by the three assistants, after which the old
+    lady began to make vigorous personal use of the bottle of spirits, though she was not
+    at all selfish, urging, not only her acolytes, but the <i>presidente</i>, his
+    brother, and the chief guest, to partake. It was too late to suggest a visit to the
+    idols, but the curious scene we had witnessed gave sufficient food for thought.
+    Hurrying back to Tlacuilotepec, we ate a last excellent dinner, which had been long
+    waiting, and at three left for Pahautlan. Our host, who had been unremitting in his
+    attention, refused all money. At certain indian houses which we passed upon our
+    homeward way, we saw curious pouches made of armadillo-shells, hanging upon posts or
+    on the house walls. We learned that they were used at planting-time for holding
+    seed-corn. When the shell is freshly removed from the animal, it is bent into the
+    required shape, and then packed full with wet ashes, to make it retain its form in
+    drying. Though it was half-past three when we left, the way was so cool and
+    delightful that we made the journey in three hours.<a
+    name="page256" id="page256"/></p>
+    <p>During our day at Pahuatlan, with a guide furnished by the <i>presidente</i>, I
+    made the journey on foot to Atla, an Aztec town, famous for the little cotton sacks
+    with red wool patterns, which are almost universally carried by men throughout this
+    district. White <i>cotones</i>, with narrow, dark stripes and a transverse band of
+    red decoration at each end, and white <i>quichiquemils</i>, decorated with brilliant
+    designs in red wool, are also made here. Our object was not so much to see the
+    village and the garments, as to visit a famous witch's cave, situated in the noble
+    pinnacle of rock, plainly visible from Pahuatlan. The whole party started out from
+    Pahuatlan, but at the bottom of the great slope, I left my companions to swim, while
+    the guide and I, crossing a pretty covered bridge, scarcely high enough for a man of
+    my height wearing a <i>sombrero</i>, went on. It was a long climb to the village,
+    but, when we reached there, my <i>mozo</i> with great glee called my attention to
+    <i>bruher&iacute;a</i> directly at the side of the church. In front of the building,
+    to the right of the door as one enters, is a hole in the ground, into which a few
+    large stones have been clumsily thrown or laid. Here chickens, flowers, eggs, etc.,
+    are buried, in order to secure good luck or to restore health. Carefully removing
+    some of the stones, we saw ample evidences of such offerings, in bones, bits of
+    egg-shells, and dried flowers. From here, the climb was easy to the crest overlooking
+    the village, and to the curious tower-like mass projecting conspicuously from it. The
+    cave is situated in this mass of rock and faces almost east; it is a shallow cavern,
+    well-sheltered and dry, perhaps fifty feet wide along the cliff's front, though only
+    the eastern third, which is the more completely worn out, is used for ceremonies; it
+    is, perhaps, no more than eight or ten feet deep, and has greater height than depth.
+    Within the cave itself we found a little table, a small chair, and two blocks for
+    seats. On either side of the table, a pole was set obliquely<a
+    name="page257" id="page257"/> against the wall. The upper end of the
+    left-hand pole was tied with a strip of palm which was looped through a hole in the
+    rock wall. At two or three other places, strips of palm had been slipped through
+    natural holes in the wall, behind bars of stone, and then tied. To the left, were a
+    censer and two candle-sticks, behind which, lying obliquely against the wall, were
+    twenty-five or thirty dance-wands. These were sticks wrapped with corn-husks and
+    tufted with clusters of flowers tied about the middle and at each end. The flowers
+    used were mostly the yellow death-flower and purple ever-lastings. Two or three of
+    them were made with the yellow death-flower&mdash;<i>cempoalxochil</i>&mdash;alone. A
+    few were made of <i>xocopa</i> leaves. While only twenty-five or thirty were in
+    position, hundreds of old ones lay on the bank to the left. Three small crosses of
+    wood were placed near the wands; much white paper, clipped and cut into decorated
+    designs, was lying about, as also wads of cotton, colored wools, long strings of
+    yarn, and bits of half-beaten bark fibre. Near the front edge of the cave was a hole
+    with large stones; here, with a little scratching, we found feathers and bits of bone
+    of turkeys and hens, that had been sacrificed, as well as splints of pine tied
+    together with bark string. Wooden spoons, probably used in the banquets of the
+    witches, were stowed away in crevices of the rock. Chains of the yellow death-flower
+    were looped up against the wall. It is said that the people of the town never enter
+    here, but only <i>brujas</i>. Nor is it the exclusive property of the witches of
+    Atla, of whom there are but two or three, but those of several pueblos make their
+    rendezvous in this cave. In fact, from the crest, we could see two other little towns
+    that are interested in this cave, though located in another valley.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image063a.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>THE PAGAN PRIESTESS AND HER ACOLYTE;
+SANTA MARIA</b></p>
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image063b.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>THE WITCH'S CAVE AT ATLA</b></p>
+<br />
+
+    <p>Don Antonio, at whose house we stayed, told us that San Pablito is worse for
+    <i>bruher&iacute;a</i> than Atla. He says the people <a
+    name="page258" id="page258"/>of that town make use of
+    <i>mu&ntilde;ecos</i> of wood, of various sizes. For these he makes many little
+    shoes, for which he charges five or six <i>reales</i> a pair; at that time he had
+    orders for three pairs, and showed us the little forms or lasts he employs, and the
+    special leather; they are particular about this, using black for shoes for males and
+    red for females. He says they also use little hats, <i>serapes, enaguas</i> and
+    <i>quichiquemils</i>, for their <i>mu&ntilde;ecos</i>. Some of these dolls they place
+    on the altar in the church, and consider them as sacred, though they remove them when
+    they expect the priest. Others they take to a lake in the district of Tenango, near
+    San Pablo el Grande, and leave them there as offerings. They also throw money and
+    other offerings into the lake.</p>
+    <p>We started at eight o'clock the following morning, bound for Tenango del Doria.
+    For a little time, after leaving Pahuatlan, we mounted, soon finding ourselves at the
+    top of a magnificent crest. From here the descent was rapid and profound; in front of
+    it rose an equally abrupt slope to an even greater height; toward the left this
+    presented a wonderful knife-edge crest, jagged and toothed astonishingly, and on this
+    great slope, below the level where we were, we saw San Pablito, prettily located. As
+    it was Sunday, most of the people were on their way to market, and we saw many
+    Otomis, whose dark color and broad faces reminded us of those in the state of Mexico,
+    though they did not present so marked a type. The <i>enaguas</i> of the women
+    consisted of an upper white strip and a lower striped one, the colors in the latter
+    being blue and white, or white with a broad band of purplish blue, in which were
+    woven white designs. Their <i>quichiquemil</i> was usually rather plain; white with a
+    broad band of red, magenta or purple, parallel to the edge. It might, however, be
+    decorated with a number of very small geometrical, floral, and animal figures, worked
+    in brown, purple and blue, which were never so crowded as to destroy <a name="page259" id="page259"/> the white background.
+    At 9:30 we reached the schoolhouse and called out the teacher, to whom we delivered a
+    letter which the <i>presidente</i> of Pahuatlan had given us for him. He summoned the
+    town authorities and we made known our wish to see some of the bark paper. At first
+    there was some hesitancy, but, at last, an old woman produced two sheets which, she
+    said, she made the day before. At our wish she then brought out the <i>tabla</i>, or
+    board of wood on which the beating is done, and the stone for beating. The latter was
+    smaller than the ancient beating-stone, and not grooved upon the beating surfaces; it
+    had, however, the side notches for convenient holding in the hand. The board on which
+    the beating is done is smooth, and is constantly cleaned and soaped. Two kinds of
+    bark are used, <i>moral</i> and <i>xalama</i>, the former giving white, the latter a
+    purplish paper. The bark is thoroughly washed with lye-water taken from soaked maize;
+    it is then washed with fresh water and thoroughly boiled; it is split into thin
+    strips which are carefully arranged upon the board. First the border is laid out the
+    size of the sheet to be made; then, within this, strips are laid lengthwise, side by
+    side. All of this is then beaten with the stone until the sheet of paper results. The
+    paper when finished, presents two sides quite different from each other; one, smooth
+    and finished, is the surface that was below in the beating, while the other, rougher,
+    is the one that was beaten with the stone. The sheets are dried in the sun, carefully
+    folded into convenient size, and done up in packages of a dozen, which are sold to
+    the indians in all the country round about. We secured seventeen dozen sheets of this
+    paper, and samples of the bark, and the board and stone used in the beating.</p>
+    <p>While arrangements were being made for showing us these details regarding
+    paper-making, we visited the village church, which was very mean and bare; we were
+    disap<a name="page260" id="page260"/>pointed to
+    find nothing suspicious in the way of <i>mu&ntilde;ecos</i>. It was suggested that we
+    should visit the <i>oratorio</i>, where we found more. Here they held their
+    <i>costumbre</i> in June, or thereabouts. Saints were arranged in the back of the
+    room on a raised altar; in front of this, running through the middle of the room, was
+    a table on which stood censers and small candle-sticks of rude pottery. Upon the
+    wall, over the saints, were decorations of rushes. Here the whole village feast and
+    dance. There were no <i>mu&ntilde;ecos</i> present, but we found plenty of cut paper,
+    most of which was probably decorative; the most curious was cut into groups of human
+    figures, some of which had crowns and horns, or tufts of hair, upon the top of their
+    heads. These were said to be decorations for Montezuma, in whose honor the feast was
+    given. Leaving San Pablo at eleven, we rapidly made what remained of the great
+    ascent. As we neared the jagged crest of rock, it appeared more irregularly gashed
+    and pinnacled than ever. At the crest, leaving the old road, which passed directly
+    through the fantastic mass of rocks, we reached San Nicolas, from which, on looking
+    backward, we gained a magnificent view of the valley and a fine waterfall, which
+    shone like a sheet of polished metal, far up the mountain side. From here our road
+    descended gently, but winding, in and out, through a series of narrow valleys, lying
+    between parallel ridges. As we passed the crest, we saw a level field of green corn,
+    which looked as if we must reach it in a few minutes. But the curves of the road
+    proved frightfully long. It was after two o'clock before we reached the green field,
+    and, just below it, Tenango del Doria, and made our way to the <i>jefatura</i>.</p>
+    <p>When the <i>jefe</i> came, we found, to our surprise, that he was the Don Pablo
+    Leyra of whom Xochihua had told us two years before. He is a pure indian, tall,
+    smooth-faced, of gentlemanly manner, and with all the reserve character<a name="page261" id="page261"/>istic of his race. He
+    has lived at Huehuetla since boyhood, forty-four years, till just now, and has but
+    recently come to take the position of <i>jefe politico</i>. He has not yet moved his
+    family from Huehuetla, and occupies a single room in his office-building. He secured
+    us a pleasant room, with good beds for the older, and good mattresses for the
+    younger, members of our party, in a house near-by upon the hill. The <i>jefatura</i>
+    fills one side of the little <i>plaza</i>; around the other side are <i>tiendas</i>,
+    with high-pitched single roofs, and private houses. The town suffers much from
+    <i>nublina</i>, and is cold most of the time.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image064a.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>INDIANS FISHING IN STREAM</b></p>
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image064b.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>PAGANISM AND CHRISTIANITY</b></p>
+<br />
+
+    <p>We asked Don Pablo about the lake, concerning which we had heard. He says it is
+    not as much visited as formerly. While used by Otomis, and others of this district,
+    it is most favored by the Huaxtecs, parties of whom go there from long distances.
+    They visit it when there is drought, for fear that the siren, who lives in it, is
+    annoyed at their neglecting to make gifts; when there is too copious rain, they visit
+    it to beg her to desist from sending more, and, when crops have been destroyed, to
+    placate her anger. Sometimes two or three hundred indians are in these companies.
+    They bring <i>mu&ntilde;ecos</i> of wood, cloth, clay, or even metal; such are shod,
+    clad and hatted. They leave these upon the shore. They also bring seeds and strew
+    them in the water, and some throw money in. They also make offerings of turkeys and
+    hens. Sometimes these bands spend several days on the shore, dancing and eating.</p>
+    <p>We found that Don Pablo had arranged all our plans. We were to leave at nine, dine
+    at twelve at San Bartolo, leave there at one, and reach Huehuetla between five and
+    six. It was really only a quarter-past-nine when we did start, and the <i>jefe</i>,
+    himself, saw us on our way. The journey was uneventful; the descents were gradual; we
+    saw San Bartolo long before we reached it; and, between it <a
+    name="page262" id="page262"/>and us, there lay a valley, like a
+    narrow gash, down which we had to go, and up the other side of which we had to climb.
+    We passed Santa Maria, an insignificant town, just before reaching the edge of this
+    gully. From there we saw, in the mountain ahead, above and behind San Bartolo, a
+    great cavern which we believe must belong to witches. Arriving at San Bartolo, we
+    found the market in full progress, and had ample opportunity to see the
+    characteristic dress of the women, with the little black, red and purple designs
+    embroidered upon the white ground. We were impressively received at the town-house,
+    for Don Pablo had telephoned them to be ready. Still, we waited a long time for the
+    promised dinner, but at half-past-one climbed up a steep hill, in the rear of the
+    town-house, to the home of the <i>presidente's</i> father, where a very elaborate
+    meal had been prepared, with wine and luxuries. All payment was refused, and, after
+    we had rested and refreshed ourselves, we left at half-past-two. The road was long;
+    it followed the side of a great gorge, into which it descended abruptly; in this
+    gorge we saw magnificent vegetation. The trees were heavily hung with long vines and
+    ferns; parasitic fig trees, hugging victims whose life sap they were stealing, were
+    abundant. The country was of limestone. On the whole, the road was good, but, here
+    and there, were patches where we traveled over sharp and jagged out-croppings of
+    rock, and near Huehuetla we were forced to make some stiff climbs up the cliff sides.
+    Flocks of parrots were numerous, especially toward evening. The stream was a handsome
+    one, with clear, deep water; we crossed and recrossed many times. The foot-paths
+    rarely crossed, being cut sometimes, as a narrow trail, in the rock of the cliff.
+    Noticeable were numerous silvery lines of water falling over the cliff, several of
+    which must have been hundreds of feet in height; these little threads of water were
+    impregnated with lime, and <a name="page263"
+    id="page263"/>deposited material in a sheet upon the bank over which
+    they flowed, so that trails of brown tufa marked their location; the lower ends of
+    these deposits expanded into fan-like masses of tufa, over which the water trickled,
+    dripped or fell. Where there was not sufficient water to produce a stream and fall,
+    but enough to keep the tufa moist, the growth of ferns, and other delicate
+    vegetation, was brilliant and striking. We passed a number of coffee and sugar
+    ranches on the road. It was dark long before we reached Huehuetla, and had it not
+    been for the moonlight struggling through the clouds, we should have had difficulty
+    in traveling the last portion of the road. At 7:35 we arrived, and went at once to
+    the large and handsome house of Don Pablo himself, where we were expected, and where
+    an elaborate supper was being made ready. The largest room in the house was put at
+    our disposal and good beds and cots, beautifully clean and carefully made, were
+    ready. Formerly, Don Pablo was the <i>presidente</i> of the town. His successor was
+    at the house to meet us, within five minutes after our arrival, and took supper with
+    us. It is needless to say that in this town we met with no delays in our work. To our
+    surprise, we found a fellow countryman, a civil engineer named Culin, from
+    Philadelphia, who has done and is doing much work for the pueblos of this region.</p>
+    <p>Huehuetla is a large town, occupying a long valley hemmed in between mountains and
+    bordering a stream. The streets are regular, and the view from the hills about,
+    looking down upon the well-built houses and the intersecting streets, is very pretty.
+    The houses have substantial walls of stone and mud, and many of them are
+    white-plastered outside; all have a thick and heavy thatch. The <i>plaza</i> lies
+    before the house where we stopped, and, to the right, the large church stands on a
+    terrace somewhat above the town. A large school building, finer than many of the
+    <a name="page264" id="page264"/> best in some
+    large cities, was just being finished; its construction was due to Don Pablo's
+    influence, and it was soon to be occupied. Meantime, the children were given
+    instruction in the church, and at noon and evening, when their lessons were closed,
+    they marched in double file, down the flight of steps in front of the church and
+    across the <i>plaza</i>, where they separated and made their way home. During the
+    time that we were working at this town, when the school children filed past, they
+    always removed their hats in the most respectful manner. While there are many
+    <i>mestizos</i> in the town, it may truly be called an indian town, the largest of
+    those belonging to the Tepehuas. According to Orozco y Berra, Tepehua is not related
+    to any other language in Mexico. We have not studied it sufficiently to be sure that
+    he is right; it is, however, certain that the language has been much affected by the
+    Totonac, if it is not related to it, and many words in the two languages are the
+    same. The people of this tribe have a great reputation, more or less deserved, for
+    cleanliness; probably it is comparative, contrasting with the neighboring Otomis,
+    rather than positive. However that may be, both men and women are usually dressed in
+    clean white clothing. The <i>enaguas</i> of the women are plain white; their belts
+    have a foundation of white cotton, but raised designs of black wool are so thickly
+    worked upon them that the white is quite inconspicuous.</p>
+    <p>The <i>camisas</i> and <i>quichiquemils</i> are generally white, with a vertical
+    band of red, and with a few animal figures. Women wear many necklaces of bright
+    beads, and braid their hair into two braids, which end with tapes of various
+    colors,&mdash;brown, red, green, maroon, and black. These braids are brought together
+    over the head and knotted in place. We secured no women for measure until we had
+    practically completed the work with men, when they came <a
+    name="page265" id="page265"/>with a rush, the whole twenty-five at
+    once, dressed in their best clothing, and insisted that the work must be done inside
+    the schoolhouse, out of sight, instead of on the street, where we had operated on the
+    men. We had no opportunity to see any of the popular <i>danzas</i>, in some of which,
+    we were told, songs were sung in the Tepehua language, but we did see examples of the
+    little <i>teponastls</i>, or drums, used on these occasions; they are made from a
+    round block, perhaps ten inches long and three inches in diameter; these are hollowed
+    out below, so that two thin lips only are left above, which, when struck, give out
+    far more musical tones than one might expect. The two nights that we were at
+    Huehuetla, we saw men and women fishing in the stream; carrying blazing torches in
+    their left hands, they waded out into the water and watched to see the dark bodies of
+    the fish against the pebbly bottom of the stream; in the right hand they carried a
+    <i>machete</i>, about a foot in length, with which they stabbed the fish, rarely
+    missing.</p>
+    <p>We were now ready for the last tribe of the season, the Totonacs of Pantepec.
+    Pantepec is in the district of Huachinango, and we had no order from the <i>jefe</i>;
+    Don Valentino, the <i>presidente</i> of Huehuetla, said, however, that the
+    <i>presidente</i> of Pantepec was his friend, and that he would give us a letter of
+    introduction, which would serve all purposes. As we were to return by Huehuetla, we
+    left the busts which we had made, and all but our most necessary baggage, at Don
+    Pablo's house. Though we started at ten, we took the journey slowly, photographing
+    and hunting birds. The road was a trail in a ravine, with all the beautiful scenery
+    with which we now were so familiar. At one point we saw a curious phenomenon. The
+    cliff rose vertically from the water's edge, at a place where the stream made a right
+    angle; this cliff consisted of almost horizontal strata of varying hardness, so that
+    some of the layers were <a name="page266"
+    id="page266"/>worn a little more than others, leaving these
+    projecting. In the space between these projecting layers, round river-pebbles, from
+    the size of hen's eggs up to the size of a man's fist, were firmly wedged, so that it
+    was with difficulty that they could be dislodged. Not a few, but hundreds of the
+    pebbles, were thus wedged, so regularly and firmly that we could not believe the work
+    to be that of nature, but suspected human hands. We learned, however, that nature
+    really had done the work, on the occasion of a flood, the result of a cloud-burst,
+    which swept into the valley two or three years before. At several places in this
+    stream, we saw groups of from two or three to ten or twelve Totonac indians, who were
+    fishing with little nets. Our trail led back and forth across this stream many times,
+    and before we reached Pantepec we had made thirty-nine crossings. From our last
+    crossing, we climbed a steep ascent, passing the little village of Tenasco, and found
+    ourselves at Pantepec. We rode at once to the town-house, and were told that the
+    <i>presidente</i> was sleeping; we went then to his house, where we were informed
+    that he could not be disturbed. We left word that we must see him as soon as
+    possible, and that he would find us at the <i>municipio</i>. Nearly three hours
+    passed before he put in his appearance. Inasmuch as we had seen this man's
+    <i>jefe</i>, and he knew our errand, we told the <i>secretario</i> to send a message
+    for us to him at Huachinango. We carefully wrote out the message for forwarding, in
+    which we told the <i>jefe</i>, that we had waited three hours for attention from the
+    town officials, and asked how much longer we should put up with delay. We never heard
+    his answer, but in less than ten minutes, the <i>presidente</i>, covered with
+    perspiration, was waiting for our orders and every policeman or the force was ready
+    for our bidding. The message he received from the <i>jefe</i> must have been
+    vigorous, for not only was everything done for our com<a
+    name="page267" id="page267"/>fort, but work was rushed. During the
+    next day we measured ninety-eight men, photographed twelve subjects, and made moulds
+    for all our five busts&mdash;an unparalleled day's labor. We were fortunate in one
+    respect&mdash;that the men had been summoned that day for public labor. So far as men
+    were concerned, they gave no difficulty as subjects. With the women it was different,
+    and full half a day was taken in getting together our twenty-five types; not but what
+    there were plenty of them, for our second day at Pantepec was market-day, and the
+    <i>plaza</i> was gay with women, but they did not wish to be measured, and the whole
+    town force, from <i>presidente</i> to the meanest <i>topil</i>, was afraid to meddle
+    with them; at first, too, we had none but the most wretched cases, women broken down
+    and worn out with years of labor. When nearly half our number had passed through our
+    hands, and all presented this same unsatisfactory type, we were forced to make a
+    sharp remonstrance, and only so did we get fair samples of young and middle-aged
+    women.</p>
+    <p>At Pantepec the centre of the town is <i>mestizo</i>; the Indians consist of
+    Otomis, of whom there are thirty households, and Totonacs forming the bulk of the
+    population. It is easy to distinguish the women of the two tribes by the difference
+    in dress. The <i>quichiquemils</i> are particularly picturesque. Both are more
+    heavily loaded with embroidery than any Indian garments we had ever seen, but the
+    styles of the two decorations are completely different. The <i>quichiquemils</i> of
+    the Otomis are smaller and completely covered with red and black embroidery; those of
+    the Totonacs are much larger, and portions of the white foundations may still be
+    seen, notwithstanding the heavy patterns in brilliant colors&mdash;red, green, yellow
+    and blue. Mothers put babies onto one side, with their little legs astride a hip, and
+    then tie them firmly in place with an <i>ayate</i>, or carry-<a
+    name="page268" id="page268"/>cloth, of cotton, thus leaving their
+    hands free for work or other burdens. If we had difficulty measuring the Totonac
+    women, we had still greater difficulty in photographing satisfactory groups of them.
+    Neither pleadings nor bribes on our part, orders nor threats on the part of the
+    officials, had much influence.</p>
+    <p>Pantepec is a large town, situated near the edge of the great mountain mass, and
+    looking across a valley, which is backed by what appears to be a flat-topped,
+    straight-edged, table mountain. The houses of the town are scattered over a
+    considerable area upon the slope. The walls are of poles, heavily daubed with mud
+    which is neatly and smoothly laid on. The corners of this mud covering are rounded,
+    instead of angular, as usual elsewhere. The thatch is heavy and firm, and squarely
+    cut along its lower edge, where it projects far beyond the walls. The <i>plaza</i> is
+    above the town-house, and is extremely ugly; a kiosk, which certainly can lay no
+    claim to beauty, stands in the centre; ugly shacks, used as <i>tiendas</i>, border a
+    part of it along the main road. Striking, at this time, in the village were the
+    <i>color&iacute;n</i> trees, some of which occurred in almost every enclosure; they
+    were in bloom, and had long, slender, flaming-red, cigarette-shaped flowers, which
+    appeared before the leaves, from trunks that were gnarled and brown and almost
+    branchless. Many popular <i>danzas</i> are celebrated here, but none was taking place
+    during our stay. San Gregorio, the town of paper-making, is not far from Pantepec,
+    and large quantities of the bark paper are beaten in the little village of Ixcoyotla,
+    which belongs to this <i>municipio</i>. Asking an old Otomi whether he knew about
+    this paper, he answered us, with great cunning, that we probably knew as much of it
+    as he did. He finally condescended to state that the <i>mu&ntilde;ecos</i> of it were
+    used in curing disease; that anyone who has a disease secures one of these
+    <i>mu&ntilde;ecos</i> and applies it to the diseased part. The <i>presidente</i>
+    insisted <a name="page269" id="page269"/>that
+    this paper was not made from <i>jonote</i>, but from <i>uli</i>, and that formerly it
+    was much used in making strong and durable belts.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image065.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>TOTONAC WOMEN; PANTEPEC</b></p>
+<br />
+
+    <p>In starting back the next morning, we went down a different slope from the one by
+    which we had come, with the result that we had to cross the stream five times more
+    than before, making the full forty-four crossings, of which we had been warned by
+    Culin while we were at Huehuetla. We made our way leisurely, stopped when we pleased,
+    and at one point noticed a cave, which we had not seen before, just across the
+    stream, at a point where it was at its deepest. The cave was so near the water's
+    edge, that it could only be approached from the stream. The boys swam across and
+    entered it to see if perchance they might find some of the paper figures used in
+    <i>bruher&iacute;a</i>. They found little of interest within; the walls and rocks
+    were marked with crosses, and on the floor were hundreds of little sticks cut to
+    various lengths. We were glad, indeed, to reach Don Pablo's house, to eat his good
+    supper, and to occupy his good beds. Before we went to bed, Do&ntilde;a Panchita
+    suggested that we ought to see certain <i>mu&ntilde;ecos</i> kept by a man named
+    Diego, and used as idols by the village. Accordingly, she sent orders that the man
+    should bring his <i>mu&ntilde;ecos</i> to the house for us to see. To this request,
+    he returned the proper reply, that he would not do so; that they would be offended;
+    that they were not toys to be carried about at the nod and beck of everyone. This
+    greatly increased our interest, and we arranged for a trip to his house. We first
+    sent a messenger forward, with word that we were coming, and ordered him to stay
+    there to see that Diego did not run away or hide the idols. After supper, Do&ntilde;a
+    Panchita, our company, Mr. and Mrs. Culin, and one or two others, picked our way by
+    moonlight across the stepping-stones and foot-bridge, up a trail by coffee groves
+    along a purling <a name="page270" id="page270"/>
+    brook-side. We were soon at the house, and after some hesitation, Diego led us to the
+    Holy of Holies. The <i>mu&ntilde;ecos</i> were kept in a little house, which
+    contained an altar built of boards, with fresh flowers for decoration. At the back of
+    the altar, against the wall, were prints of Christian saints; on the altar were
+    censers and an open bundle of <i>copal</i>. Two wooden boxes were at the right end of
+    the altar, against the wall. These contained <i>mu&ntilde;ecos</i> which, for some
+    time, Diego hesitated to produce. Finally he took out an idol of rather fine-grained,
+    brownish-gray stone; the head was large and infantile, with the Mongolian cast of
+    countenance; its badly shaped and scrawny arms were raised so as to bring the hands
+    together on the chest; the body was shapeless. This figure was clad in a suit of
+    unbleached cotton, much too long and slender for it, and the arms of the
+    <i>camisa</i>, and the legs of the <i>calzones</i> hung limp. When we had duly
+    admired this figure, a second was produced&mdash;a pottery female-head, fairly
+    shaped, with no body to speak of; this had glass earrings fastened in the ears. Next,
+    a small headless figure was brought out; it was old, though probably made after the
+    Conquest, and we agreed that it represented a <i>padre</i>. Next was a simple pottery
+    head. Last was a figure, with small head and pointed cap, made apparently of pottery;
+    the body had been pieced out to disproportionate length with wood, and ended in a
+    pair of wooden feet; this was dressed in black velvet, and wore a black hat. These,
+    Diego asserted, were all he had. After having expressed our delight with them, and
+    our regret that we had not known what we were to see, that we might have brought with
+    us some fine white <i>copal</i> as incense for these gods, we set them up in a
+    straight line on the edge of the altar to make a flashlight picture. As we left, we
+    gave Diego two <i>reales</i> to spend for the benefit of his gods. After we left, we
+    were assured that he had finer ones of black <a name="page271"
+    id="page271"/>stone, which he dresses in red, but we were content
+    with the ones we had seen. These figures are particularly used on September 16th, San
+    Miguel's day. They are also used at sowing-time, at harvest, and at the first cutting
+    of sugar-cane. On these occasions, incense and candles are burned, the idols are
+    taken in the hands, and to the sound of music, worshippers move the figures, causing
+    them to dance. Pleased with this, they give good rains to the faithful worshippers.
+    When there is too much rain, they go in procession to the river, playing music and
+    dancing dolls; when arrived, they peg down many <i>ayates</i> and sacks, made for the
+    purpose, into the water against the flow. These are dams, to stay the flood. On the
+    other hand, when there is drought, a procession carries the idols to a cave, where a
+    feast is given and a dance, with wands of flowers carried in the hands, indulged
+    in.</p>
+    <p>Though the price for animals from Huehuetla to Las Tortugas was exorbitant, we had
+    agreed to pay it&mdash;but told the man that, if he left later than six, it should be
+    cut two dollars. It was long after eight before they appeared, and then it was only
+    our own animals that were ready. We were forced to leave the packing to be done by
+    the man himself without direction; we ourselves hurried along the trail, hardly
+    stopping at San Bartolo on the way, arriving at Tenango at 4:15. Our animals were
+    fagged, and we were soaked to the skin, having travelled through <i>nublina</i> most
+    of the afternoon. Don Pablo received us with his usual courtesy, and had arranged for
+    us to sleep at the same house, where we had been before. At bed-time, our man with
+    the mules had not appeared, and we had received most contradictory and discouraging
+    statements regarding him. He had started at nine with two mules and left half our
+    stuff for another day; he had been seen at the river near San Bartolo with two mules
+    heavily loaded, unable to <a name="page272"
+    id="page272"/>proceed; he had concluded to stop at San Bartolo for
+    the night, to push on to Tenango the next day, and reach Las Tortugas on the third.
+    Dissatisfied and uncertain, we went to bed; still, we determined to leave at five,
+    and so gave orders to our <i>mozo</i>. We rose at 4:15 and the horses were ready
+    before five. Contradictory stories were again told us regarding our animals. Some
+    said the man had passed with them at five o'clock; others that he had not yet come;
+    others that he had spent the night at Santa Maria. Our foot <i>mozo</i> did not come,
+    and sending the rest ahead, I waited for him. Hardly had they started, when Ramon
+    galloped back to announce that the man was in town, that he had three animals and was
+    nearly ready to leave. As he, himself, had told us that he must leave Tenango at
+    three in order to reach Las Tortugas in time for the train, this was not reassuring.
+    Ramon hastened on with the party. At six the <i>mozo</i> appeared and started at
+    once. In a few minutes we passed our <i>arriero</i> who was packing, but not ready to
+    start. I urged him to hasten, but did not wait. Mist had settled during the night,
+    but it was now rising, and we could see the scenery, which, in wildness and beauty,
+    was almost the equal of anything in Mexico, though with a character quite its own.
+    Our trail ran along the side of a precipice; to our left rose great cliffs presenting
+    almost vertical faces of smooth rock; the summits were jagged, and suggested that the
+    mass consisted of stratified rocks tilted up on end. Just as we left town, two narrow
+    and lofty parallel rocks suggested a gate-way. Further down, a mass was worn out into
+    a sharp column, a little separated from the rock mass behind. On the right, was the
+    precipice, ever abrupt, and sometimes the almost vertical bank of a yawning chasm.
+    After an hour and a half over the fairly good road, we came to a grand ascent. It was
+    magnificent, though difficult. In some spots the road was muddy, and at others<a name="page273" id="page273"/>it was a series of
+    rough stone steps; at still others, it was the unmodified bed of a mountain torrent.
+    As we followed up this gorge, side-gorges joined it, in which we glimpsed pretty
+    cascades, pits worn by little falls, trees, the trunks of which were covered with
+    thick sheets of green moss, quantities of tree-ferns blighted by the late frost,
+    cliffs, and wild forms of rock, in wonderful variety. At last I reached the summit
+    and overtook Manuel, whose horse was completely fagged, and who had been forced to
+    drop behind; for some time we saw the others before us, but somewhere they took a
+    different trail, and we saw them no more. After a considerable descent, we made our
+    final but easy rise. From here we were on a level road, which constantly improved
+    until near Mepetec, while beyond it, we came to a true cart-road. From here a fine
+    view presented itself, over a forest of pine trees to the clean brown plain so
+    typical of Hidalgo, swept, as we soon found, by the equally typical Hidalgo wind. We
+    rode rapidly from the <i>herrer&iacute;a</i> of the Trinidad to Metepec, and then to
+    Las Tortugas, where we arrived at 11:40, having been five hours and a half upon the
+    road. To our surprise, Louis and Ramon were not there. Having waited some time, as it
+    was almost the hour for the train, we ordered dinner for two, but before we had begun
+    to eat the others appeared. They had taken a short road, which did not go by Metepec,
+    and travelled slowly that we might overtake them. After a good meal, we waited for
+    our man with the pack animals. Meantime the train was preparing, and we watched it,
+    realizing that if we missed it, we had a day of dust and scorching sun and heavy wind
+    before us. The train's crew made all ready, the cry of "<i>V&aacute;monos</i>" was
+    given, and we settled down in desperation to await our tardy man. An hour after the
+    train left, he arrived, received his fee less the two dollars, and started homeward.
+    Twenty-three hours later we took the train, and our season's work was done.</p>
+
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image066.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>VIEW OF PANTEPEC</b></p>
+<br />
+
+    <hr style="width: 65%;" />
+    <h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXI" id="CHAPTER_XXI"></a>CHAPTER XXI</h2>
+    <a name="page274" id="page274"/>
+    <h2>IN THE HUAXTECA</h2>
+    <h3>(1901)</h3>
+    <p>The scenery on the Tampico branch was at its best, as there had been recent rains,
+    and everything was fresh and green. At Tampico, we resisted the attractions of the
+    hotels "where Americans always stop," and went to the unpretentious Pan Cardo. Here
+    we were comfortably located, and early the next morning tried to define our plans. We
+    were in uncertainty as to what towns we should visit in order to examine the
+    Huaxtecs. The ancient Huaxtecs were among the most interesting of Mexican tribes.
+    They are a northern offshoot of that great family, of which the Maya of Yucatan is
+    the type. The linguistic relationship is evident upon the most careless comparison.
+    The ancient area occupied by the Huaxtecs was near the Gulf of Mexico, and on both
+    sides of the Panuco River, near the mouth of which some of their important centres
+    were located. To-day Mexicans divide the Huaxteca into two parts,&mdash;the Huaxteca
+    Veracruzana and the Huaxteca Potosina&mdash;the former in the state of Vera Cruz, the
+    latter in the state of San Luis Potosi. At first, we thought to visit the latter, but
+    the difficulty of reaching it was presented so forcibly, and the ease of reaching the
+    Huaxteca Veracruzana so emphasized, that we determined upon the latter, and selected
+    the town of Ozuluama for our central point. We could go by canoes across the river to
+    Pueblo Viejo, where we could secure horses for the further journey. We were led to
+    believe that it would be easy to make the trip <a
+    name="page275" id="page275"/>in a single day. We had arranged for a
+    canoe over night. It belonged in Pueblo Viejo, and it was to come over early in the
+    morning; we were at the wharf at six, ready to start, but no canoe was in sight. Not
+    only so, but a norther was blowing, and comforters, lounging on the wharf assured us
+    that no canoe would come from Pueblo Viejo until the storm ceased, which would not be
+    for twenty-four hours. We were loath to believe this information, and brought all our
+    baggage from the various storing-places, where we had left it, out onto the wharf.
+    Time passed; the norther continued, and no canoe from Pueblo Viejo came. Thinking
+    that it might be possible to secure a canoe from here to Pueblo Viejo, we dickered
+    with a boatman at the wharf. We had agreed to pay for the canoe ordered $1.00 for the
+    journey, which was something more than the regular price. The man with whom we now
+    were talking declared that he would not take us across for less than $3.50. We were
+    on the point of yielding to necessity, when a rival appeared and offered to do the
+    work for $2.50. Such is human perversity that we now insisted that he must go for
+    $2.00, which he finally agreed to do. Hurrying away to get his canoe, he soon
+    appeared, and our hearts sank. The man who had demanded $3.50 had a large, well-built
+    boat, which should stand any wind and water. The man whom we had engaged had a canoe
+    so narrow, low, and small that we doubted his ability to perform his contract;
+    however, he assured us that all would be well, and showed himself so skilful in
+    packing our stuff into his boat, that we ourselves embarked, and started down the
+    little lagoon in his canoe. So long as we remained in this narrow, sheltered stream,
+    all was well; but when he poled from its mouth out to the open river, we found it a
+    different matter. More than this, we saw two or three canoes dancing over the white
+    caps, and managed with great difficulty, although not <a
+    name="page276" id="page276"/>loaded. The courage of our boatman was a
+    little dashed; he suggested that we leave Ramon, Louis, and Manuel on an old scow
+    standing on the bank and fast going to ruin, while he poled myself and the luggage
+    over, after which he would return for my companions. This seemed good sense, and the
+    boys were left behind. It was interesting to see the skill with which the man handled
+    our rather awkward craft, loaded at it was almost to the water's edge. He had no
+    motive power but his long pole. We did not ship a single drop of water, and at last
+    entered the quiet, broad, canal-like lagoon on the other side of the river. A moment
+    more, and we were unloading our luggage onto the shore. To do this, we were forced to
+    wade through mud up to the knees. But at last all was safe, and with his empty canoe,
+    our boatman started merrily back for his other passengers. When they arrived, only a
+    few minutes were necessary for reloading the canoe, and we started up the lagoon.
+    Little side lagoons opened frequently into the one through which we passed. At their
+    mouths were V-shaped weirs of stakes, driven into the bottom and wattled together
+    with flexible twigs. These were open at the mouth, and in the openings were set
+    dip-nets, which could be lowered into the water. Just now, with the heavy norther
+    blowing, thousands of <i>camar&oacute;n</i> (shrimps) were driven into the nets, and
+    at each one we saw fishermen busily occupied. The lagoon abounded in water-birds of
+    many kinds, and hardly had we entered it, when Louis shot a pretty, small white
+    heron.</p>
+    <p>Believing that the owner of animals to whom we had been referred was demanding too
+    high a price for his horses and mules, we decided to see what the town authorities
+    would do for us, and went to the <i>municipio</i>. The <i>presidente</i> told us,
+    with delight, that the <i>jefe politico</i> of Ozuluama was there with his family,
+    rusticating, and at once summoned him to meet us. He was a gentlemanly fellow, <a name="page277" id="page277"/>who told us that the
+    price demanded was regular, but advised us to travel in a different way. "Here," he
+    said, "you can get a large canoe; starting now, you can travel all night; reaching La
+    Llave in the early morning, you can get horses and go the seven leagues remaining
+    comfortably. Take a little something to eat before you start, and carry something for
+    the way." This seemed an opportunity for a new experience, and, though the price was
+    little, if any, less than we were asked to pay for animals, we decided to try it.
+    Arrangements were begun at once, breakfast ordered, and a light lunch prepared for
+    carrying. Meantime, the <i>jefe</i> told us that there were few Indians in Ozuluama,
+    but that in Citlaltepec we would find abundance. He gave us orders to his
+    <i>secretario</i>, who represented him during his absence, and bade us god-speed. We
+    left at one o'clock, in a great canoe, a heavy, timber-framed boat, propelled by long
+    poles, by oars in quiet and deep water, and by a clumsy sail. A framework of poles,
+    covered with matting, roofed over the middle of the boat, and a piece of matting was
+    spread upon the floor. Hanging blankets to shelter ourselves from the heavy wind yet
+    blowing, we busied ourselves variously, the boys skinning birds which they had shot,
+    and I making up my various notes. The lagoon which we now entered was a large stretch
+    of open water. We raised our sail, and made easy work. Having crossed the large
+    lagoon, we entered the mouth of what probably would be considered a fair-sized river,
+    which at first was closely bordered by a tangle of trees and vines, and presented a
+    truly tropical appearance. Palms were abundant, and, here and there, one of unusual
+    size towered high above the rest. The other trees were densely hung with long gray
+    moss. Now and then, we disturbed alligators along the banks, and we were told that
+    snakes were abundant in the grass. The quantity of water-birds was aston<a name="page278" id="page278"/>ishing&mdash;great
+    and small white herons, large blue herons, little blue herons, the curious, dark
+    wry-necks, and ducks by thousands. The positions and attitudes of these long-necked
+    and long-legged birds, in the water and on the trees, were curious and striking. The
+    boys kept busy shooting and skinning birds all the afternoon. In the evening, the men
+    built a fire with charcoal in a tin-lined box in the end of the canoe, and toasted
+    <i>tortillas</i> and made coffee. The awning was scarcely large enough to cover the
+    whole party comfortably, when we lay down to sleep, but we wrapped up in blankets and
+    spread mats for beds. We suffered intensely with the cold, sleeping little. At five
+    o'clock our boat came to a stop along the bank, and at six it was light enough to
+    disembark and explore. Climbing up a little bank of clay, we found ourselves on a
+    flat meadow, covered with grass and weeds, through which narrow trails ran to a few
+    scattered palm-thatched huts. With a letter from the <i>jefe</i>, we called at
+    Se&ntilde;ora Mora's house. This lady was a widow, whose husband had but lately died;
+    she was well to do, and promised to supply us with animals after we should have had
+    our breakfast. This was long preparing, but at last good coffee, fine
+    <i>enchiladas</i> and cheese were served, and, after eating heartily, we found six
+    animals ready for us. When we asked for our account, the good lady replied that the
+    bill was $2.00. It was plain that she had made no charge for either breakfast or
+    animals, but only something for the boys whom she sent along to bring back the
+    beasts. At about eleven, we started on what was called seven leagues, but what was
+    certainly the longest nine leagues we had travelled for a long time. We had excellent
+    horses that kept up a steady jog. Still, it was after five when we reached Ozuluama.
+    The journey was for the most part over a <i>llano</i>, thicket-covered and sprinkled,
+    here and there, with groves of palm; the soil was dark clay, <a
+    name="page279" id="page279"/>which in spots, wet by recent rains, was
+    hard travelling for the animals. We caught sight of the town, prettily located upon a
+    hill-slope, about an hour before we reached it. From it, we looked out over an
+    extensive stretch of dark green plains, broken, here and there, by little wooded
+    hillocks, none of them so large as that upon which Ozuluama itself is situated.
+    Riding to the town-house, the <i>secretario</i> was at once sent for. He ordered
+    supper, and put a comfortable room, behind the office, at our disposal. On the back
+    porch, just at our door, was chained a tiger-cat. It belonged to the <i>jefe</i>, and
+    was a favorite with his little children, but since they had been gone, it had been
+    teased until it had developed an ugly disposition. It was a beautiful little
+    creature, graceful in form and elegantly spotted. But it snarled and strove to get at
+    everyone who came near it. The <i>secretario</i> at once told us that Citlaltepec was
+    not the point we ought to aim for, as it was purely Aztec; our best plan was to go to
+    Tamalin, where we would find one congregation of Huaxtecs. From there, if we needed
+    further subjects, we might go to Tancoco, although it did not belong to this
+    district, but to that of Tuxpan. In the course of our conversation, I was reminded
+    that Ozuluama is the home of Alejandro Marcelo, a full-blooded Huaxtec, who once
+    published a book upon the Huaxtec language. Expressing an interest in meeting this
+    man, he was sent for. He is far older than I had realized, celebrating his 74th
+    birthday that very week. He was a man of unusual intelligence and most gentle manner.
+    At nine o'clock next morning, supplied with new animals, we started for Tamalin, said
+    to be thirteen leagues distant. We were well mounted, and the journey was much like
+    that of the preceding day. For three hours we were impressed with the loneliness of
+    the road; no people were to be seen anywhere. Here and there, set far back from the
+    road, were country <a name="page280"
+    id="page280"/>houses. The road itself was an extremely wide one, cut
+    through a woods, which consisted for the most part of low and scrubby trees, with
+    scattered clumps of palm trees here and there. Usually the trail was single, but
+    where we came on mud patches, many little trails were distributed over the whole
+    breadth of the road. Here and there, where there were particularly bad spots, into
+    which our horses would have sunk knee-deep, we were forced to take trails back among
+    the trees. While the earlier part of the journey was through rolling country, we came
+    at noon into a true plain, though wooded. We found many cross roads, broad and
+    straight, cut through the woods, and were impressed by the great number of dry
+    <i>barrancas</i> into which we had to descend, and out of which we had to climb. Most
+    of these were actually dry, but many of them contained a dirty pool of stagnant
+    water. At many places, the road was bordered with plants, the leaves of which
+    somewhat resembled those of the pineapple. They were light green in color, narrow and
+    long-pointed at the upper end, and spiny along the sides. This plant, named
+    <i>guamara</i>, bears spikes of yellow fruits which are pointed at the upper end, but
+    in color, size, texture, structure and taste reminded us of podophyllum, though it
+    leaves a prickly sensation in the mouth, much like that produced by fresh pineapples.
+    There were also many trees bearing little limes or lemons, of which we gathered
+    abundance for making lemonade. At two o'clock our man pointed out a ranch-house near
+    the road, in front of which two men sat eating, and told us we could procure food and
+    drink there if we wished, and that we had plenty of time for stopping. We found the
+    men at the table to be the parish priest of Tantima and his servant. The priest
+    informed us that Tamalin was three and three-fourths leagues away, while Tantima was
+    four. The road for the greater part of the <a name="page281"
+    id="page281"/>distance to the two places was the same. We had an
+    interesting conversation with the good priest, and for the first time we met the
+    curious prejudice, which exists throughout this portion of the Huaxteca, against the
+    Huaxtecs, and in favor of the Aztecs. We were kept waiting some little time for our
+    dinner, but by three o'clock were again upon our way. Just as we started, we crossed
+    the first true stream which we had met, but during the balance of the journey we
+    crossed one or two others. Soon, leaving the main road, we bore off to the left, and
+    found several bad spots of stiff black mud, into which our poor animals sank
+    frightfully. After five o'clock we saw, from the slope on which we were, for we had
+    left the <i>llano</i> and were again in rolling country, a little village, and higher
+    and further to the left, a second. The first of these was Gutierrez Zamora, which is
+    Huaxtec, with a few Mexican families living at one side; the second was our
+    destination, Tamalin. We passed through Gutierrez at six, and reached Tamalin at
+    seven.</p>
+    <p>The <i>alcalde</i> of the village was not there; in fact, we suspect that he but
+    rarely is. The <i>secretario</i>, likewise, was absent. We finally prevailed upon his
+    brother to help us to find an indian girl to cook our meals, and a room in the
+    <i>secretario's</i> house. In this room there was but a single bed and our helper
+    thought me very particular in demanding that <i>petates</i> should be brought as beds
+    for my companions. He assured us that, when he traveled, he slept upon the floor,
+    without <i>petates</i>. It was long after 10 o'clock before we had supper and secured
+    a resting-place. We had planned to push out from here the following morning; no sign,
+    however, of our baggage had appeared, and we were forced to spend two days at Tamalin
+    waiting for its coming. Here, too, we found that there were no Huaxtecs, the town
+    being, so far as it was indian, purely Aztec. We decided, therefore, to try Tancoco,
+    returning, if need be, to Gutierrez.<a name="page282"
+    id="page282"/> Both Gutierrez and Tancoco were in the district of
+    Tuxpan. Fortunately, we still carried our last year's letter from the governor of
+    Vera Cruz to serve us with the local authorities, as it would be most inconvenient to
+    go to Tuxpan for orders. Seeing that it was impossible to leave that day, I walked in
+    the afternoon to Tantima to visit the priest. Between the two towns rises a fine,
+    high rock hill. The ascent from Tamalin was in three slopes, with short levels
+    between; the crest was but a few yards wide; the descent to Tantima was abrupt and
+    short. From the summit we looked down upon the pretty, level, enclosed valley
+    occupied by a rather regular town, built about a large plaza which, the day being a
+    market day, was gay with booths and people. I met almost the whole population of
+    Tamalin on my way over, as they returned from market. All the men were drunk; some
+    were so helpless that they sprawled upon the road, while others were being helped by
+    their more sober comrades. I reached the plaza just thirty-seven minutes after
+    leaving Tamalin, and at once telegraphed to Ozuluama about the baggage. When I
+    inquired for the priest's house, the telegraph operator informed me that the
+    <i>padre</i> had told him all about us and our errand and that he would accompany me
+    to the <i>curato</i>. Crossing the square, we found the <i>padre</i> living in a
+    comfortable place, close by the great, pretentious, stone church. We were warmly
+    welcomed, and orders were at once given for coffee. The Aztec servant hastened to
+    bring some, piping hot, and was quite abashed at being sharply reproved for offering
+    it directly to me. No, indeed, a gentlemen so distinguished was not to be thus
+    served; the table was moved up before my chair, a clean cloth spread, sweet cakes
+    were sent for, a glass of fresh milk placed, and then the coffee was set upon the
+    table. Thus, in solitary grandeur, I sat and ate and drank, while the priest and
+    operator took their cups of coffee <a name="page283"
+    id="page283"/>in their hands. Though we had ordered horses for the
+    following morning, the baggage had not come, and we waited all the day. Strolling
+    around the village, we found it a pretty place, through which ran a fine stream,
+    separating the houses into groups or clusters. It is a true Aztec town, and the
+    houses are well-constructed. Several houses are set irregularly within a single
+    enclosure; the walls are built of poles set upright, but these are so heavily daubed
+    with a mixture of mud and chopped straw that they are strong and durable. In applying
+    this daub, the hand is used, and a simple block of wood of rectangular form, with a
+    projecting edge extending midway of the upper side, is used as a trowel for spreading
+    it, and giving it a smooth finish. The thatchings are thick, and project far beyond
+    the walls; they are of palm, and neatly cut at the edges; a cresting, thin, but
+    evenly placed and firmly pegged down, projects over the ridge, down either slope, and
+    its edges form the only break in the smooth surface. Many of the houses had
+    <i>temascals</i>, differing considerably from those of Puebla and Tlaxcala. They are
+    rectangular; the walls are built of poles, set upright, close together, and
+    strengthened by being lashed to a horizontal timber set midway of their height. The
+    roof is a round vault or arch of poles set lengthwise. The whole is neatly plastered
+    over with a mixture of mud and chopped straw, and in the front a cross is worked in
+    the clay mixture, to insure good fortune. The women here wove cotton in the usual
+    indian fashion, but few wore the old dress, and those few were mostly aged. We
+    noticed quantities of pottery here, and throughout the Huaxteca, but none of it is
+    local in manufacture. Most of it has come from the two towns, Huejutla, an Aztec
+    town, and Panuco. We were forced to spend a third night at Tamalin. The
+    <i>secretario</i> had been at home for two days and had fairly done his duty; still,
+    our animals were late when <a name="page284"
+    id="page284"/>we were ready to start the following morning, and we
+    were not off until 9:30. It was a steady climb, over a long series of ascents, until
+    we reached a crest from which Tancoco could be seen. We made a long descent and then
+    a little upward climb to the town, which is notable for its cleanliness and the
+    industry and cleanness of its inhabitants. The town is situated upon a little hill,
+    from which one looks out on a sea of green forests, with little rocky hillocks
+    covered with trees rising from it, here and there, like wooded islands. Between us
+    and Tamalin rose a semi-circle of ridges, sweeping from us off to the left and
+    forward in the distance. In front, near the top of this curve of ridges, two leagues
+    distant, lay Amatlan, clear and impressive, from this point. Riding up to the little
+    town-house, which had a portico enclosed by a neat railing and supplied with pine
+    benches, we dismounted, and, with some doubt as to its reception, presented our old
+    letter. The <i>secretario</i> was an intelligent <i>mestizo</i> from Tuxpan. He sent
+    at once for the <i>alcalde</i>, who was a good-natured, little Huaxtec, of pure
+    blood, thoroughly dependent upon his subordinate officer. We were promised
+    everything. The schoolhouse, remarkably clean, was put at our disposal, and a
+    messenger was sent to notify an old woman named Guadelupe that she was to prepare our
+    meals. Before four o'clock, work was under way, and during the two days that we
+    remained, there were no difficulties. The houses of the town are somewhat like those
+    of Tamalin, but less well built. The single industry is the weaving of hats from
+    palm. On the house-roofs, and on the ground before the houses, palm was drying. Some
+    of the work was extremely delicate, and the four grades of hats sell for from four
+    pesos upward. Men, women and children are all occupied in the manufacture, and as
+    they sit in their houses or at the door of an evening, or as they walk through the
+    village on errands, their hands are<a name="page285"
+    id="page285"/> ever busily occupied with the plaiting. There is
+    absolutely nothing characteristic in dress, both men and women dressing like
+    <i>mestizos</i> in the important cities of the Republic. Almost every one wears
+    shoes; women, those with high French heels. A resident tailor makes the bulk of the
+    clothing for the more particular men of the town. In our school-room we were supplied
+    with good kerosene lamps, an experience almost unique. Few, if any, of the houses in
+    the village were without the same mode of light. Many, if not all, of the women had
+    sewing-machines.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image067.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>VIEW AT TANCOCO</b></p>
+<br />
+
+    <p>We were more than ever impressed with the anomalous condition of these people in
+    their own land. They were the cleanest, most industrious, best dressed and most
+    progressive indians whom we had seen in any part of Mexico; but in the Huaxteca, the
+    land which bears their name, they are being crowded by the less progressive Aztecs.
+    <i>Mestizos</i> and Aztecs both speak of them with contempt, and treat them like
+    dogs. As for their language, it is neglected and despised; while many of them know
+    both Spanish and Aztec, neither <i>mestizo</i> nor Aztec considers it worth while to
+    know a word of Huaxtec. While we had no trouble with the men, we began to feel that
+    the women would fail us. It was after five o'clock, the last day of our stay, before
+    a single one appeared. Then they came in a body, accompanied by the full town force,
+    and each with her husband as a guard, to our quarters. They were dressed in their
+    best calico, muslin, silk and satin, with laces and artificial flowers, earrings,
+    necklaces, and with shoes the heels of which measured from thirty to thirty-five
+    millimeters. They were perfumed; their hair was heavily oiled with odorous greases.
+    Each shook hands with our whole party, greeted us politely, and sat down on the long
+    school-benches, waiting for her turn for measurement. Notwithstanding this rather
+    oppressively lady-like mode of procedure, we were <a
+    name="page286" id="page286"/>assured by old Guadelupe that our errand
+    and work in the town had caused much terror and doubt, the women particularly feeling
+    sure that it boded ill. It was said that they recalled the fact that years ago
+    certain of their old men predicted that strangers would eventually come to the
+    village, who would bewitch the people and destroy the town. It was commonly believed
+    that we were now fulfilling this prediction.</p>
+    <p>The physical type of the Huaxtecs seems to be well marked. A peculiar gray tint
+    underlies the brown color of the skin. The head is short, broad, and curiously
+    compressed behind; the eyes are wide apart, and frequently oblique; the mouth is
+    large, with thick but not projecting lips.</p>
+    <p>We had planned to leave about the middle of the afternoon, and at 3:50 the best
+    animals we have ever had were ready for our use. A magnificent horse, the special
+    pride of the <i>alcalde</i> himself, was put at my disposal. When we came to settle
+    for the animals, all payment was refused, their use being the voluntary offering of
+    the town officials. The animals made nothing of the journey, and within an hour and a
+    half we had again reached Tamalin.</p>
+    <p>We found that Aztec town as disagreeable as ever. Solemn promises had been made
+    that various <i>danzas</i> should be ready for us, and that there should be no delay
+    regarding animals. Of course, we found nothing doing. The only satisfactory memory
+    connected with the town is our cook, Porfiria. She was a master hand, and with
+    training, should make a reputation and a fortune. A pure indian, we would rather eat
+    at her table than at that of any half-breed cook in all that section. She always had
+    quantities of food, and no two meals were alike. Unless we expressly ordered
+    something we had had before, it is doubtful whether she would have repeated a single
+    dish. Her <i>enchiladas</i>, <a name="page287"
+    id="page287"/>seasoned with cheese and onions, were the best we ever
+    had, and after the first experience, we insisted on having them at every meal. Her
+    masterpieces were in simple maize. Her <i>tortillas</i> were good, but
+    <i>tortillas</i> one finds everywhere; she served <i>cocoles, chavacanes</i>, and
+    <i>pemol. Cocoles</i> are round, flat biscuits or cakes of maize, a couple of inches
+    across and half an inch in diameter; they contain shortening, and when served hot,
+    are delicious. <i>Chavacanes</i> are thin, flat square crackers of corn-meal with
+    shortening and eggs; they are good even when cold, but are best when hot from the
+    griddle. <i>Pemol</i> is a corn-cake, crumbly, sweet, and baked; it contains sugar
+    and shortening, and is made up into the form of rather large cakes, shaped like
+    horse-collars.</p>
+    <p>As the result of vigorous remonstrance, the <i>secretario</i> really had the
+    <i>danza</i> of <i>los Negros</i> at his house that night. Music was furnished by
+    <i>pito</i> and <i>huehuetl</i>. The two performers, one representing a Spaniard and
+    the other a negro, were masked. The action was lively, and the dialogue
+    vociferous&mdash;both players frequently talking at once. The dance was kept up until
+    nearly ten o'clock, after which, as we planned an early start, we were soon in bed.
+    Just as we were dropping off to sleep, we heard the whistling and roaring of the
+    norther outside, and the cold air found its way through every crack into our room.
+    From our house the musicians and the dancers had gone to the <i>syndico's</i>, where
+    they stayed some time; but, between one and two in the morning, they came back to our
+    house and played in the room next to ours, with the door wide open. Our interest was
+    not great enough to lead us forth again. Finally they left, but at four o'clock the
+    musicians, now quite drunk, appeared again, and for a long time the
+    <i>secretario</i>, his lady, and the school-master, danced in lonely grandeur up and
+    down the room.</p>
+    <p>Don Leandro, the <i>secretario</i>, had promised to accom<a
+    name="page288" id="page288"/>pany us the following morning as far as
+    San Geronimo. We had decided to go on horseback to Paso Real, a little distance
+    beyond San Geronimo, and there take boat for Tampico. When morning came, we expressed
+    surprise over Don Leandro's charging rent, in addition to the rather large price
+    which we had already paid for beds. This seemed to hurt his sensitive feelings, with
+    the result that we started without his company. The ride was monotonous, over a road
+    which made few ascents or descents, and presented little of variety or interest.
+    Little green hills bordered the road on either side, and on many of them were
+    ranch-houses, some of rather good construction. In a little stream over which we
+    passed, we saw a great idol's head, of stone, a foot or more across, and well made.
+    San Geronimo we found to be the comfortable country-house of the <i>alcalde</i> of
+    Tamalin and all the ranches among which we had made our journey. It was a fine old
+    place, with high airy rooms, good verandas, and an old-fashioned tile roof. Our
+    journey had been hot, and we found a fine breeze blowing through the house. The
+    <i>alcalde</i> knew all about our errand and was ready to be helpful. He was a tall,
+    slender, mild-mannered and polite <i>mestizo</i>. After we had eaten, he rode with us
+    to Paso Real to arrange about a boat and point out various objects of interest on the
+    way. <i>Chapapote</i>, from which chewing gum is made, is an important product here,
+    and among those interested in it as a business is an American dentist. We saw many
+    birds, among which doves were conspicuous; the <i>alcalde</i> says that six or eight
+    species occur here, the different kinds singing at different seasons; one of them had
+    a peculiarly sad and mournful song, and is heard in the early morning. Another bird,
+    the <i>primavera</i>, seems to be like our mockingbird, imitating the notes and cries
+    of many other birds and animals. At two places we passed black lines of fora<a name="page289" id="page289"/>ging ants, and he
+    told us that insects, frogs, toads, and even snakes, encountered by these lines, are
+    helpless, being promptly overcome and devoured. Arrived at Paso Real, the
+    <i>alcalde</i> arranged for our boat. He told us that loaded boats require three days
+    for making the journey to Tampico, but that ours, being empty, would probably go
+    through in twenty-four hours. The boat he arranged for had been partly loaded, but
+    its owner had agreed to unload in order to receive us. As a favor to him, we
+    consented to permit five or six not large boxes to go along. Having ordered supper
+    for us at the house upon the summit from which the road descended to Paso Real, the
+    <i>alcalde</i> left us. Supper was slow, but at last was over. Our baggage had
+    already been carried to the boat, and we strolled down to take our passage. Less room
+    was left for us than we had expected the boxes would leave, but it was dark and we
+    raised no question. We waited an impatient hour for our canoemen to take their
+    supper, being almost devoured by mosquitoes, but at last were off at nine o'clock.
+    Our force consisted of two men and a little lad. It was with difficulty that two
+    could be accommodated beneath the awning, and Manuel and I took our places outside.
+    For my own part, sleep was impossible. Now that we were in motion, the mosquitoes
+    ceased to trouble us. The stream was narrow, and on account of the curves, we were
+    forced to move slowly. We floated out under and beneath bamboos, which hung far over
+    the water and outlined themselves like lace-work against the sky. At first, there was
+    moonlight. Later, the moon set, but the stars were brilliant. The early morning was
+    cold, and a heavy dew dampened everything outside the awning. During the day our men
+    stopped on every pretext to rest and sleep, and whenever we came to a considerable
+    stretch of water, any sign of storm or cloud was heralded. Just before daybreak, we
+    had reached the <a name="page290" id="page290"/>
+    beginning of the first large lagoon. Here our sail was hoisted, though it was of
+    little use, while we poled along near shore, following all the long curves. Our first
+    stop, on account of a norther, was exciting; from the anxiety of the men, we expected
+    to be instantly upset. We ran into the mouth of a little stream and lay to, and the
+    men were almost instantly asleep. Our party went out exploring; our landing place was
+    a heap of shells, whether artificial or natural I am not sure; the place was a
+    favorite spot with hunters of caimans, or alligators, and we found numbers of almost
+    complete skeletons and skulls lying on the banks. The boys picked up quantities of
+    scales and teeth, and it was interesting to see how the new conical teeth grow up
+    under the hollows of the old ones. We killed a duck or two for supper. One or two
+    large caimans were seen, as we strolled along. Finally, I insisted upon the men
+    starting again. We were traversing a system of great lagoons which opened one into
+    another. Poling was our only mode of progress. That night Manuel and I occupied the
+    shelter. When we rose, we found the great lagoon, through which we were then passing,
+    quite different in its character from those preceding it. Thickets of mangroves
+    bordered the shore; the display of aerial roots was interesting, and here we were
+    able to examine the curious smooth tips of the roots which are to penetrate the soft
+    mud bottom. We landed at one place to get wood and to catch a glimpse of the sea,
+    whose roaring we had for hours heard. We left our boat in the lagoon, and walked a
+    short distance over sand dunes, thickly grown with trees, to the beach, which only
+    appeared in sight when we reached the top of the last dune. It was a gently sloping
+    sandy stretch, upon which a fine surf was beating. There were no pebbles save bits of
+    water-worn coral and shell. Quantities of sea-gulls were flying about and flocks of
+    little snipe ran down over the retreating surf, catching <a
+    name="page291" id="page291"/></p>
+    food, turning and running rapidly in before the coming wave. A single shot into the
+    flock killed thirty-one of the little creatures, which later in the day supplied us
+    an excellent meal. From this lagoon of mangroves, we finally entered the great lagoon
+    of La Riviera, which pretty town we passed a little before three o'clock. From here
+    we knew that, by hiring horses, we could reach Tampico in two hours; had we really
+    known what lay before us, we would have done so. Having passed La Riviera, we entered
+    a narrow canal, bordered for the most part with tall, flat rushes and a great grass
+    much like our wild rice. Here again we saw large herons and great kingfishers; the
+    boys had repeatedly tried to shoot one of the latter birds, but with no success;
+    finally, one was seen standing on the branch of a tree hanging over the stream; this
+    one was shot, and when we picked it up, we found it to be curiously distorted, the
+    breast being strangely swollen. When skinned, this swelling proved to be due to a
+    fish which the bird had eaten, and which was almost as large as itself. Weighted with
+    this heavy burden, it is no wonder that the bird had been shot so easily. At dusk we
+    found ourselves at a landing-place, where we left the boxes, which turned out to be
+    eight in number, each of which weighed one hundred and twenty-five pounds. They
+    contained <i>chapapote</i>. Our men had talked much of <i>the</i> canal, to which,
+    for some time, we had been looking forward. At this landing, arrangements were made
+    for helping us through the canal, a little canoe being despatched after us, to help
+    unload us. When we reached the canal, narrow, shallow and straight, cut for the most
+    part through the solid rock, the moon was shining brightly. Our great canoe was soon
+    aground, and whole party, seven in number, climbed out into the water to push and
+    pull. We dislodged it soon, but shortly came to a complete standstill. Here for the
+    first time, we real<a name="page292"
+    id="page292"/>ized the cargo which we carried, which before had been
+    carefully covered so that we really were in ignorance of it. Eighty half-dozen cakes
+    of sugar were unloaded into the little canoe, which paddled away. We waited, noting
+    with regret that the falling water, probably due to tide, was fixing our canoe more
+    and more firmly in the mud. Finally, the little canoe came back, taking another
+    eighty half-dozen cakes of sugar on board. Our canoe having been thus lightened, we
+    made another effort to move it, and, after many struggles and groans, finally found
+    ourselves in deeper water, embarked, and poled off. Having reached the place upon the
+    bank where the canoe loads had been left, we stopped to freight again. To our
+    surprise, we found here once more the eight boxes of <i>chapapote</i>, which,
+    apparently, had been carted across. We were now able to calculate the load which our
+    "empty" canoe, hired at thirty pesos, in order to take us quickly through to Tampico,
+    was carrying:<br />
+     <br />
+
+
+    <center>
+      &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;
+      <table border="5" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="1" summary="Two tons of cargo">
+        <tr>
+          <td align='left'>120 dozen cakes of <i>panela</i>, of 2 lbs</td>
+          <td align='right'>2,880 lbs.</td>
+        </tr>
+        <tr>
+          <td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 1em;">8 boxes <i>chapapote</i>, of
+          125 lbs&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;</span></td>
+          <td align='right'>1,000 lbs.</td>
+        </tr>
+        <tr>
+          <td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 1em;">6 sacks of beans, of 100
+          lbs&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;</span></td>
+          <td align='right'>600 lbs.</td>
+        </tr>
+        <tr>
+          <td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 7.5em;">Total&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;
+          &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;</span></td>
+          <td align='right'>4,480 lbs.</td>
+        </tr>
+      </table>
+    </center>
+    <p>In other words, we had been crowded and delayed by more than two tons of cargo.
+    Perhaps, had we been actually alone in the boat, it might have made its journey in
+    the twenty-four hours promised, instead of the sixty of accomplishment. It was nine
+    o'clock when we were again aboard, and we made the boatman travel all night long. At
+    the stroke of half-past-three we heard the bells of Tampico, and drew up along the
+    waterside-landing of that city. For two full hours we lay there, listening to the
+    buyers bartering with the boatmen for their load of maize, <i>frijol</i> and
+    <i>panela</i> untill daylight, when we gave orders to unload.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image068a.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>OUR CANOE FOR SIXTY HOURS; THE LAGOONS</b></p>
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image068b.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>MANGROVE ROOTS</b></p>
+<br />
+
+
+    <hr style="width: 65%;" />
+    <h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXII" id="CHAPTER_XXII"></a>CHAPTER XXII</h2>
+    <a name="page293" id="page293"/>
+    <h2>IN MAYA LAND</h2>
+    <h3>(1901)</h3>
+    <p>We had planned to go from Tampico to Chiapas, and from there to Yucatan, where we
+    were to finish our work for the season. We found, however, that there was no
+    certainty in regard to a boat for Coatzacoalcos, while the Benito Juarez was about to
+    sail for Progreso the next day. Not to lose time, we decided to do our Yucatan work
+    first, and to let Chiapas wait until later. We were busy that day making arrangements
+    for departure, and in the afternoon hired a canoe to take our stuff from the wharf to
+    the boat, which was standing out in the river, beyond Do&ntilde;a Cecilia. There was
+    a brisk wind against us, and we almost arrived too late to have our luggage taken
+    aboard. The next morning, we took the first train to Do&ntilde;a Cecilia, and were on
+    board the boat at nine o'clock. We had been told that the sailing would take place at
+    ten, but, on arrival, found that they were waiting for cattle which were being
+    brought across country. One hundred and twenty head were to make our chief cargo, and
+    they were expected at six a.m. Nothing, however, was to be seen of them in any
+    direction. We had taken breakfast, and it was almost twelve o'clock before the first
+    signs of the animals were to be seen. Meantime, at eleven, a norther appeared, and we
+    were informed that it would be impossible to leave short of twenty-four hours.
+    Besides our company, there were three first-class passengers&mdash;a sort of
+    German-Austrian baron and his lady, and a contractor, who was taking a force of hands
+    to<a name="page294" id="page294"/> Yucatan for
+    farm labor. Eighty-three of these hands were our third-class passengers; they had
+    been picked up all along the line of the Tampico Branch of the Central Railway, and
+    few of them realized the hardships and trials which lay before them. We were assured
+    that more than half of them would surely die before the end of their first year in
+    Yucatan. As we could not leave until the norther passed, it was decided not to take
+    the cattle on board until next day. Thus we spent a day as prisoners on the boat,
+    standing in the river. In the morning the water was still rough and the wind heavy,
+    but at 9:30 the loading of the animals began. They were brought out on a barge, about
+    one-half of the whole number to a load; tackle was rigged and the creatures were
+    lifted by ropes looped around their horns. The first few were lifted singly, but
+    after that, two at once. While it sounds brutal, it is really a most convenient
+    method, and the animals, though startled, do not seem to be injured in the least, nor
+    indulge in much kicking. By 11:40 all were loaded and we were ready for our start. We
+    had to wait until the customs-house inspector should come on board to discharge us,
+    and this was not done until half-past one. We sailed out, between the jetties, at two
+    o'clock, and found the Gulf rough, and a high wind, which continued through most of
+    our voyage. The smell from the cattle was disagreeable, and between it and the
+    roughness, all were seasick before the first afternoon was over.</p>
+    <p>Captain Irvine is the youngest captain of the Ward Line, being but twenty-six
+    years of age. He has followed the sea since he was thirteen years old. A Nova Scotian
+    by birth, he has sailed this coast for some little time, and is a competent official,
+    doing his utmost for the pleasure and convenience of his passengers. The journey was
+    uneventful. There was some excitement among the third-class passengers, many of whom
+    were drunk and quarrelsome. The first <a name="page295"
+    id="page295"/>evening, two of them were fighting, with the result
+    that the head of one was split open and had to be dressed by the captain. When we had
+    been some forty-eight or fifty hours at sea, we found ourselves off the Campeche
+    banks, in quieter water. Those who had suffered from sickness were again quite
+    themselves. It was 4:30 Sunday morning, February 3, after we had been almost three
+    days and three nights at sea, and four days on the boat, that the Progreso light was
+    sighted, and not long after we came to anchor. We waited from six o'clock until
+    almost ten for lighters and the doctor. After he had made his inspection, we piled
+    off with all our baggage onto a little steamer, which charged three dollars, each
+    passenger, for taking us to the pier, which was close by, and to which our own boat
+    could easily have run. This, however, was but the beginning of Yucatecan troubles.
+    When we found ourselves on the wharf, the customs officials insisted upon our going
+    to the general office for inspection, on account of the character and amount of our
+    luggage. Arrived there, we found that we had no clearing papers for our stuff, and
+    forty dollars duty was required for material which had already paid duty in entering
+    Mexico, and which had only gone from one Mexican port to another, as baggage. In vain
+    we argued and attempted to explain matters. The officials advised us to bring the
+    American consul and have him straighten matters; but his office was shut, as it was
+    Sunday. Meantime, we saw the train, which we had expected to take at 11:30, leave for
+    M&eacute;rida, and at twelve o'clock the customs-house offices were closed, and we
+    were forced to leave the business for another day. Fortunately, there are two
+    railroads from Progreso to M&eacute;rida, and we were able to take an afternoon train
+    over the narrow-gauge line for the capital city. The station was an enormous, wooden,
+    barn-like structure; the cars were weather-beaten and dilapidated to a
+    degree&mdash;except the <a name="page296"
+    id="page296"/>first-class car, which was in fair condition.
+    Passengers were gathering, but no particular signs of the starting of a train were
+    evident. Boys at the station were selling slabs of pudding, squares of sponge cake
+    soaked with red liquor, pieces of <i>papaya</i>, cups of sweetened boiled rice, and
+    oranges. The oranges were unexpectedly high in price, two selling for a <i>medio</i>;
+    the seller pares off the yellow skins and cuts them squarely in two before selling;
+    the buyer eats merely the pulp, throwing the white skin away. As train-time neared,
+    interesting incidents occurred. The ticket-agent was drunk and picked a quarrel with
+    a decent, harmless-looking indian; the conductor dressed in the waiting-room, putting
+    on a clean shirt and taking off his old one, at the same time talking to us about our
+    baggage-checks. A fine horse, frisky and active, was loaded into the same
+    baggage-freight car with our goods. The bells were rung as signals, and the station
+    locked; the whole management&mdash;ticket-agent, conductor and baggagemen&mdash;then
+    got upon the train and we were off. At one of the stations the ticket-agent took his
+    horse out from the car, and riding off into the country, we saw no more of him.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image069a.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>LOADING CATTLE; DO&Ntilde;A CECILIA</b></p>
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image069b.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>MAYAS, RETURNING FROM WORK; SANTA MARIA</b></p>
+<br />
+
+
+    <p>The country through which we were running was just as I had imagined it. Though it
+    was supposed to be the cold season, the day was frightfully hot, and everyone was
+    suffering. The country was level and covered with a growth of scrub. There was,
+    however, more color in the gray landscape than I had expected. Besides the grays of
+    many shades&mdash;dusty trees, foliage, bark and branches&mdash;there were greens and
+    yellows, both of foliage and flowers, and here and there, a little red. But
+    everywhere there was the flat land, the gray limestone, the low scrub, the dust and
+    dryness, and the blazing sun. There were many palm trees&mdash;chiefly
+    cocoa-nut&mdash;on the country-places, and there were fields of hennequ&iacute;n,
+    though neither so extensive<a name="page297"
+    id="page297"/> nor well-kept as I had anticipated. It resembles the
+    magu&eacute;y, though the leaves are not so broad, nor do they grow from the ground;
+    the hennequ&iacute;n leaves are long, narrow, sharp-pointed, and rather thickly set
+    upon a woody stalk that grows upright to a height of several feet. The leaves are
+    trimmed off, from season to season, leaving the bare stalk, showing the leaf-scar.
+    The upper leaves continue to grow. In places we noticed a curious mode of protecting
+    trees by rings of limestone rock built around them; many of these trees appear to
+    grow from an elevated, circular earth mass. At Conkal, the great stone church
+    magnificently represented the olden time, but it bore two lightning rods and was
+    accompanied by two wind-mills of American manufacture. Everywhere, in fact, the
+    American wind-mill is in evidence. One can but wish that the poor users of the old
+    <i>cenotes</i> might come to life, and, for a little time, enjoy the work of the
+    winds in their behalf. Everywhere we saw plenty of Maya indians and heard something
+    of the old language. All travellers to Yucatan comment on the universal cleanness of
+    the population; notable in the indians, this marks equally well the <i>mestizos</i>,
+    whites and negroes. They are not only clean, but all are well dressed. Men wear low,
+    round-crowned, broad-brimmed palm hats; trousers are rarely of the tight-fitting
+    Mexican kind; indians who work at heavy labor protect their clean white shirts and
+    drawers with a strip of stuff, like ticking, wrapped about them. Women wear two white
+    garments, both ample, hanging from the neck, bordered with black or colored bands.
+    They generally wear long necklaces or rosaries, the beads of which are spaced with
+    gold coins, and a cross of gold or a medal of the same material hangs at the bottom.
+    Women of middle age are usually stout, and march with quite a stately tread.</p>
+    <p>M&eacute;rida itself is much larger and better built than we <a name="page298" id="page298"/>had expected. Many of
+    the houses, especially on the outskirts, are elliptical in section, and have walls of
+    small stones closely set in mud plaster. In the center of the town the houses are
+    covered with painted plaster and are in the usual Latin-American style. Great numbers
+    of quaint little coaches, with a single horse, were waiting at the station. As we
+    walked up to the center of the town, we found but few places open, practically
+    nothing but barber-shops and drug-stores. Of both of these, however, there were a
+    surprising number.</p>
+    <p>Having been directed to the Hotel Concordia, we were disappointed when the old
+    lady in charge stated that she had no rooms, and directed us across the way to the
+    Hotel de Mexico. As we had arranged for the delivery of our stuff, we did not care to
+    look elsewhere, and therefore inspected the rooms in this hotel. To reach them, we
+    went through a barber-shop into a narrow <i>patio</i>, and, mounting some rickety
+    stairs, found our quarters, which were filthy, vile-smelling, hot and uncared for.
+    Yet for these choice quarters, with two beds in each of two rooms, leaving no space
+    practically between, we were expected to pay four dollars. Upon remonstrating with
+    the proprietor at the price demanded, he cooly said, "Oh, yes, everything here costs
+    high; but there is money to pay it with." This really stated the fact. Conditions in
+    M&eacute;rida are the most abnormal of any place which I have visited. Owing to the
+    war in the Philippines, and interference with the trade in hemp, the fiber of the
+    hennequ&iacute;n is in great demand, and money is plentiful. At good restaurants each
+    plate costs thirty cents, instead of ten or twelve, as in the City of Mexico itself.
+    No coach will cross the street for less than fifty cents; for a cooling drink, such
+    as in the capital city would cost three cents, one here pays twelve. The shortest
+    street-car line charges ten cents; and everything else is in propor<a name="page299" id="page299"/>tion. What the
+    hotel-keeper said, about there being money to pay these frightful prices, was equally
+    true. We paid <i>cargadors</i> four times, draymen three times, more than we have
+    ever done in any other part of Mexico. In the restaurants we saw <i>cargadors</i>
+    calling for plates at thirty cents, boot-blacks eating ices at one <i>real</i>,
+    newsboys riding in coaches, and other astonishing sights. In the plaza, good music is
+    played on Sunday nights, and every one is out in all his finery; fruits, sweetmeats,
+    refreshing drinks, are hawked everywhere, and are much indulged in; under the
+    corridors are little tables, where ices, iced milk and drinks are served. At the
+    hotel we passed a night of horror, suffering from the heat, dust, ill-placed lights,
+    mosquitoes and other insects. Leaving my companions I went the following morning to
+    Progreso to attend to the unlucky baggage. For variety, I took the broad-gauge road,
+    but found little difference in the country through which we passed. The number of
+    wind-mills was astonishing, and most of them were Chicago aeromotors. At one station
+    a great crowd of pure indians got off and on the train. The American consul at
+    Progreso is too much interested in archaeology to be found at his office, but his
+    Mexican vice-consul was present. To him our difficulty was explained, and on his
+    advice we deposited the forty dollars demanded for duty, and signed various documents
+    of remonstrance, upon which we paid almost four dollars more for stamps. We were then
+    permitted to take out enough plates for immediate use, leaving the balance in
+    Progreso until we should be ready for our return journey.</p>
+    <p>Acting on the advice of the vice-consul, we changed quarters in M&eacute;rida from
+    the Hotel de Mexico, to the Moromuzo, kept by an American who had been many years in
+    the country, and where, though we paid even more for rooms, we had some comfort. By
+    industrious search, we <a name="page300"
+    id="page300"/>found a Chinese restaurant, where prices were not high
+    and service quite as good as in the aristocratic place where we had dined before. The
+    day before we called at the palace, hoping to see the governor, though it was Sunday.
+    He was out of town, and we were asked to call the following day. Accordingly, in the
+    afternoon, after returning from Progreso, I repeated my call but was told that the
+    governor had gone out of town again and that I should come the following day. The
+    third day, again presenting myself at the office, I learned that it was a holiday and
+    that the governor would not be at the palace; the secretary recommended that I try to
+    see him at his house. To his house I went, and sending in my card and my letters from
+    the Federal authorities was surprised, after having been kept waiting in the
+    corridor, to be informed that the governor would not see me, and that I should call
+    at the palace, the next day, in the afternoon, at two o'clock. Sending back a polite
+    message that we had waited three whole days to see his excellency, and that our time
+    was limited, my surprise was still greater at receiving the tart reply that he had
+    stated when he would see me. We spent the balance of day and all the morning of the
+    next, looking about the town.</p>
+    <p>Having failed in my visit to Governor Canton, I took a street-car to Itzimna to
+    see the bishop, to ask him for a letter to his clergy. The well-known Bishop Ancona
+    had lately died, and the new incumbent was a young man from the interior of Mexico,
+    who had been here but a few months. He had been ill through the whole period of his
+    residence, and seemed frail and weak. He received me in the kindest way, and after
+    reading the letters I presented, asked whether I had not been in Puebla at a certain
+    time two years before; on my replying in the affirmative, he remarked that he had met
+    me at the palace of the bishop of Puebla and had then learned of my work and studies.
+    He gave me an excellent <a name="page301"
+    id="page301"/>letter to his clergy, and as I left, with much feeling,
+    he urged me to be careful of my health and that of my companions while we were in the
+    country. When he came from Puebla, only a few months before, he brought three
+    companions with him, all of whom had died of yellow fever. He told me that, though
+    this was not the season for that dread disease, cases of it had already broken out in
+    the city; at the same time he stated that more than eight hundred cases of small-pox
+    were reported in M&eacute;rida, and that many of them were of the most virulent.
+    Sunday we had walked through dust ankle-deep upon the roads; Tuesday and Wednesday it
+    was with difficulty that we could cross the streets, which were filled with mud, and,
+    part of the time, with muddy water a foot and more in depth. This is a frequent
+    occurrence, and foot-passengers who desire to cross the street are often forced to
+    hire a coach for that purpose. As one walks the street, he runs constant risk of
+    being splashed with mud and water from passing vehicles and street-cars. During the
+    four days we spent in M&eacute;rida we met several persons interested in literary
+    lines, and visited a number of institutions, among which the most interesting was the
+    Museo Yucateco, of which Se&ntilde;or Gamboa Guzman is in charge. It is by no means
+    what it should be, or what, with but small outlay, it might be. But it contains
+    interesting things in archaeology, in local history, and in zoology. It is of special
+    interest to Americans because Le Plongeon was interested in its foundation and early
+    development.</p>
+    <p>An old gentleman, clerk in the diocesan offices, advised us to visit Tekax and
+    Peto for our study. The governor had set the hour of two for our reception. Merely to
+    see when he would come, we seated ourselves in the garden of the plaza, so that we
+    could watch the entrance to the palace. Two came, but no governor. At 2:30 several
+    gentlemen were waiting near the office door. At three no governor <a name="page302" id="page302"/>had arrived. At five
+    minutes past three, we noticed that hum of excitement and expectation which usually
+    heralds some great event, and looking down the street, saw the governor pompously
+    approaching. As he passed, hats were removed and profound salutations given. Waiting
+    until he had entered the office, we walked up to the reception room, where we found
+    ten or twelve gentlemen waiting audience. The great man himself had disappeared into
+    an office which opened onto this reception-room, but the door of which was not
+    closed. All waited patiently; from time to time the usher-secretary crept noiselessly
+    to the office door and peeked through the key-hole to see whether the executive was
+    ready. Finally, at 3:35 the word was given, and the privilege of the first audience
+    was granted to myself. During these days of waiting&mdash;something which has never
+    occurred with any of the many governors of states in Mexico upon whom I have
+    called&mdash;I had expressed my surprise to a gentleman of wealth and prominence in
+    the city, at the governor's compelling me to wait for audience. With some feeling,
+    this gentleman replied, "But, sir, you are fortunate; you are a stranger, and bring
+    letters from cabinet officials; many of the best gentlemen in this city have been
+    kept waiting months in order to see Governor Canton in regard to business of the
+    highest consequence to themselves and to the public." I will do the governor justice
+    by saying that he listened with apparent interest to my statement, and that he gave
+    orders that the letters which I wished, to local authorities, should be prepared
+    without delay. Thanking him, I withdrew, and by five o'clock the secretary handed me
+    the desired documents; we had lost four days. Early the following morning, as no
+    <i>cargadors</i> were at hand, our little company resolved itself into a band of
+    carriers and we took our baggage and equipment to the Peto station. The securing of
+    tickets <a name="page303" id="page303"/>and the
+    checking of baggage was quite an undertaking, and if the train had started at the
+    time announced, we should have missed it; however, we were in good season, and left
+    something less than an hour late. The country through which we passed was an
+    improvement upon what we had seen before. The trees were greener, and many flowers
+    were in bloom. From the train, we saw a group of pyramids at one point, and an
+    isolated pyramid at another. Some of the indian towns through which we passed, with
+    curious Maya names, were interesting. So, too, were the vendors at the station. Hot
+    tamales, "<i>pura masa</i>" (pure dough), as Manuel said, slippery and soapy in
+    feeling and consistency, done up in banana leaves and carefully tied, seemed to be
+    the favorite goods; far better were split <i>tortillas</i> with beans inside and
+    cheese outside; beautiful red bananas and plump smooth yellow ones were offered in
+    quantity. We lost an hour at the station where trains met, reaching Tekax at eleven.
+    We walked up to the hot <i>plaza</i>, where we found the town offices closed, and had
+    difficulty in even leaving our stuff with the police. At a restaurant we had a fair
+    breakfast, for which we paid a peso each person. As there were no signs of the town
+    officials, we dropped into the <i>curato</i> to see the priest, to whom we presented
+    the bishop's letter. He was a Spaniard, who had been in this country only a few
+    months, and despises it heartily. He was sitting at table with two young men, who had
+    accompanied him from Spain, and who love Yucatan no better than he. He greeted us
+    most heartily, and was interested in our plan of work. He sent at once for the judge
+    of the <i>registro civil</i>, who could tell us many curious things about the
+    indians, and, as soon as the old man came, the good priest ordered chocolate to be
+    served. We chatted for some time, when, seeing that the <i>jefe's</i> office was
+    open, I suggested that I had better go to present <a
+    name="page304" id="page304"/>my letters. The <i>cura</i> and the
+    judge at once began to abuse that official roundly for his sins of commission, and
+    particularly for those of omission, and told me that I should have him summoned; that
+    it was much better than to trouble myself by going to his office, where I had already
+    been twice in vain; it was but right that he should attend to business; he ought to
+    be in his office when visitors came to see him. Accordingly a messenger was sent and
+    the <i>jefe</i> summoned.</p>
+    <p>He seemed a rather nice young fellow, and was much impressed by the letter from
+    his governor; he expressed himself as ready and anxious to serve us in every way, and
+    made arrangements for us to begin work in the town-house, where, before dark, we had
+    taken fifteen sets of measurements. This was a capital beginning, but the next two
+    days our work fell flat. It was necessary to keep constantly at the <i>jefe</i>, and
+    it soon became plain that he was making no great effort to secure subjects for us, on
+    the assumption that we had better wait until Sunday, when there would be plenty of
+    people without trouble to the police.</p>
+    <p>It was useless to urge effort, and we spent the time talking with the old judge in
+    regard to the habits and superstitions of the indians and in walking with the judge
+    of <i>primera instancia</i> up to the ridge which overlooked the town, and which was
+    crowned by a little <i>hermita</i>. The population of Yucatan is still, for the most
+    part, pure indian of Maya blood and speech. The former importance of this people is
+    well known; they had made the greatest progress of any North American population, and
+    the ruins of their old towns have often been described. They built temples and public
+    buildings of stone and with elaborate carved decorations; they ornamented walls with
+    stucco, often worked into remarkable figures; they cast copper and gold; they hived
+    bees, and used both wax and honey <a name="page305"
+    id="page305"/>in religious ceremonial. They spun and wove cotton,
+    which they dyed with brilliant colors; they had a system of writing which, while
+    largely pictorial, contained some phonetic elements. They are still a vital people,
+    more than holding their own in the present population, and forcing their native
+    language upon the white invaders. Nominally good Catholics, a great deal of old
+    superstition still survives, and they have many interesting practices and beliefs.
+    The cura presented me a <i>ke'esh</i> of gold, which he took from the church, where
+    it had been left by a worshipper. It is a little votive figure crudely made, commonly
+    of silver; the word means "exchange," and such figures are given by the indians to
+    their saint or to the Virgin in exchange for themselves, after some sickness or
+    danger.</p>
+    <p>The ridge overlooking the town is of limestone, and is covered with a handsome
+    growth of trees and grass. The terrace on which the <i>hermita</i> is built is flat
+    and cleared; it is reached by a gently graded ascent, with a flight of wide and easy
+    steps, now much neglected. The little building is dismantled, though there is some
+    talk of reconstructing it. Behind it is a well of vile and stagnant water, which is
+    reputed to cure disease. From the ridge a pretty view of Tekax is to be had, bedded
+    in a green sheet of trees. The town is regularly laid out, and presents little of
+    interest, though the two-storied <i>portales</i> and the odd three-storied house of
+    Se&ntilde;or Duarte attract attention. There are also many high, square, ventilated
+    shafts, or towers, of distilleries. From the terrace where we stood, in the days of
+    the last great insurrection, the indians swept down upon the town and are said to
+    have killed 2,500 of the people, including men, women and children.</p>
+    <p>The school-teacher of the town is a man of varied attainments, being also a
+    photographer, watch-maker, medical-adviser, chemist, and so forth. His house is full
+    <a name="page306" id="page306"/> of scientific
+    instruments&mdash;a really good camera, a fine aneroid barometer, several
+    thermometers, including self-registering maximum and minimum, etc., etc. All seem
+    excellent in quality, but I could not learn that he makes any use of them, except the
+    camera. The <i>cura</i>, and the judge deride his possession of the instruments,
+    doubting whether he knows how to use them. They assert that he has an apparatus for
+    projection, for which he paid 1,000 pesos, which has never yet been unpacked. When we
+    called on him he showed us, by his hygrometer, that the air was very humid, though
+    the temperature was at 86&deg; Fahr., and told us, what probably is true, that in
+    this heavy, hot weather, every wound and bruise, however trifling, is likely to
+    become serious. In illustration of this fact, the <i>cura</i> mentioned that his
+    Spanish carpenter, who merely bruised his leg against the table, has suffered
+    frightfully for three months, having now an ugly sore several inches across, that
+    makes walking difficult. Great care is necessary with any injury that breaks or
+    bruises the skin. We ourselves had already experienced the fact that insect-bites
+    became ugly open sores that showed no signs of healing; as a fact, none of us
+    succeeded in curing such for several weeks after leaving Yucatan. In the afternoon,
+    the priest, the judge of <i>primera instancia</i> and myself took a coach to ride out
+    to a neighboring <i>hacienda</i>, where there was a great sugar-mill, Louis
+    accompanying us on horseback. Our road ran alongside the ridge and consisted of red
+    limestone-clay. It was fairly good, though dry and dusty, and closely bordered with
+    the usual Yucatecan scrub. The ridge, along which we were coursing, is the single
+    elevation in the peninsula; beginning in northeastern Yucatan, it runs diagonally
+    toward the southwest, ending near Campeche. It is generally covered with a dense
+    growth of forest, unless artificial clearings have been made. Covies of birds, like
+    quail, were seen here and <a name="page307"
+    id="page307"/>there, along the road, and at one point a handsome
+    green snake, a yard or more in length, glided across the way. Snakes are said to be
+    common, and among them several are venomous&mdash;the rattlesnake, the coral-snake,
+    and most dreaded of all, a little dark serpent a foot or so in length, with an
+    enormous head, whose bite is said to be immediately fatal. There are also many
+    tree-snakes, as thick as a man's arm. In the forest, mountain-lions are rare, but
+    "tigers" are common. We found Santa Maria to be an extensive <i>hacienda</i>, and the
+    sugar-mill was a large structure, well supplied with modern machinery, and turning
+    out a large amount of product. We saw a few of the indian hands, went through the
+    factory, and were shown through the owner's house, which has beautiful running water
+    and baths, though there is little furniture, and nothing of what we would consider
+    decoration. It was after dark before we started to town, and when we got there we
+    found two wedding parties waiting for the padre's services.</p>
+    <p>The promised crowd filled the market Sunday, and our work went finely. Between the
+    town officials and the priest, subjects were constantly supplied. Among the indians
+    who presented themselves for measurement was old Manuel, sacristan from Xaya; he is a
+    <i>h'men</i>, and we had hoped that he would show us the method of using the
+    <i>sastun</i>, or divining crystal. He is a full-blood, and neither in face nor
+    manner shows the least emotion. Automatic in movement, he is quiet and phlegmatic in
+    manner; having assumed the usual indian pose for rest, a squat position in which no
+    part of the body except the feet rests upon the ground, or any support, he sat
+    quietly, with the movement of scarcely a muscle, for hours at a time. He sang for us
+    the invocation to the winds of the four quarters, which they use in the ceremony of
+    planting time. Though he is frequently employed to say the "milpa mass" and to
+    conjure,<a name="page308" id="page308"/> he
+    claims that he never learned how to use the <i>sastun</i>, but told us that another
+    <i>h'men</i> in his village knew it well.</p>
+    <p>One of the <i>padre's</i> companions has been ill ever since he came to Yucatan;
+    Sunday he suffered so greatly that a doctor was sent for in haste. Nothing was told
+    us as to what his trouble might be, but personally I suspected that he had the
+    small-pox. In connection with his illness, we learned for the first time that another
+    companion of the priest, brought from Spain, died in the room I was occupying, less
+    than two weeks before, from yellow fever. We had known that one of his companions had
+    died of yellow fever, but supposed it was some months earlier. Toward evening the
+    priest was sent for by a neighbor, who needed the last service. On the <i>padre's</i>
+    return, we learned that this person was believed to be dying from <i>vomito</i>. For
+    a moment we were in doubt what was best to do, especially as the police had told us
+    that the <i>padre</i> had permitted no fumigation of his premises after his comrade's
+    death, simply sprinkling holy water about the place. That night the young man in the
+    next room suffered greatly, and I could not help but wonder what ailed him. However,
+    I decided that what danger there might be from the disease we had already risked, and
+    as we expected to remain but one or two more days, it seemed hardly worth while to
+    make a change. Monday we planned a visit to San Juan and Xaya. The horses had been
+    ordered for five o'clock, but mass had been said, chocolate taken, and all was ready,
+    long before they appeared. Six, seven, eight all passed, and at last, at nine, only
+    three animals appeared. This decided us to leave Ramon behind to pack the busts which
+    we had made, while the others of the party, with the <i>padre</i>, mounted on his own
+    horse, should make the journey. A foot <i>mozo</i> carried the camera. The road was
+    of the usual kind, and was marked at every quarter league with a little cross of wood
+    set into a pile of stones<a name="page309"
+    id="page309"/> and bearing the words, De Tekax&mdash;&mdash; L. As we
+    passed La Trinidad we noticed great tanks of water for irrigation before the house,
+    and tall trees with their bare, gray roots running over and enveloping the piles of
+    stones on which they had been planted. There were no other plantations or villages
+    until just before the ninth cross&mdash;two and a quarter leagues&mdash;we came to
+    the hennequ&iacute;n plantation of San Juan. The mayor domo was delighted to see the
+    <i>padre</i> and greeted us warmly, taking us at once to the great house. We rode
+    between long lines of orange trees, loaded with sweet and juicy fruits, and were soon
+    sitting in the cool and delightful hallway. It is impossible to say how many dozens
+    of those oranges four of us ate, but we were urged to make away with all we could, as
+    the daily gathering is something more than five thousand. Soon an elaborate breakfast
+    was ready for us, but before we ate we took a drink of fresh milk from cocoanuts cut
+    expressly for us. We had salmon, eggs, meat-stew, beans, tortillas, and wine. But the
+    mayor domo expressed his regret that he did not know we were coming, as he would
+    gladly have killed a little pig for us. As dessert a great dish of fresh
+    <i>papaya</i> cut up into squares and soaking in its own juice, was served. Sitting
+    in the cool corridor, after a good breakfast, and looking out over a beautiful
+    country, with promises that all the subjects necessary for measurement should be
+    supplied, the idea of riding on to Xaya lost attractiveness, and we sent a
+    foot-messenger with an order to the town authorities to send the <i>h'men</i> with
+    his <i>sastuns</i> without delay to see us.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image070a.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>MAYA DANCE; SAN JUAN</b></p>
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image070b.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>THE H'MEN WITH HIS SASTUN; SAN JUAN</b></p>
+<br />
+
+    <p>This was our first opportunity to see the industry of hennequ&iacute;n, which is
+    the chief product of this <i>hacienda</i>. The leaves, after cutting, are brought
+    from the field tied up in bundles. These are opened, and the leaves are fed into a
+    revolving, endless double chain, which carries them on iron arms upward and dumps
+    them onto a table, where <a name="page310"
+    id="page310"/>three men receive them and feed them into the stripper.
+    This consists of a round table, into the inner, excavated, circular face of which a
+    round knife with dull edge fits closely, though at only one place at once; the
+    leaves, fed between the table and knife, are held firmly by them at about one-third
+    their length. The projecting two-thirds of the leaves hang downward; as the table
+    revolves the leaves thus held are carried to a vertical revolving rasp which strips
+    out the flesh, leaving the fibre masses hanging. These taken out from between the
+    table and the knife are fed again to a second revolving table which holds the masses
+    of fibre, leaving the unstripped portion of the leaves exposed to a second rasp,
+    which strips it. The hanks of fibre are dropped from the second table onto a
+    horizontal wooden bar, where they are rapidly sorted over by a man who throws
+    inferior and spotted bunches to one side. The whole operation is rapid and beautiful.
+    The fresh fibre is then hung over bars, in the southern wind, to dry, after which it
+    is baled in presses for shipment.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image071.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>MAYA HOUSE; SAN JUAN</b></p>
+<br />
+
+    <p>We had no trouble in completing the measurement of subjects from the indian hands
+    on the place, and made portraits and photographs of native dancers. In the afternoon
+    the <i>h'men</i> appeared. He was an extremely clean and neat indian of forty-five,
+    and carried at his side a little sack, within which, carefully wrapped up in a
+    handkerchief, were his <i>sastuns</i>. There were five in all; three were small round
+    balls of glass, broken from the stoppers of perfume bottles; one was somewhat
+    barrel-shaped and of bluish color, while the other, the largest of all, was rather
+    long, fancifully formed, and with facets ground out upon it; it was yellowish in
+    tint. The two latter were apparently from toilet bottles. Telling him that I was
+    anxious to learn about something which had been stolen from me, I asked what was
+    necessary in the way of preparation. He demanded a candle and<a
+    name="page311" id="page311"/> <i>aguardiente</i>. A great taper of
+    yellow wax and a bottle of spirits were supplied. Taking these in his hand, he
+    entered the little chapel of the <i>hacienda</i>, considering it a good place for
+    conjuring. He piously kissed the altar tables and the bases of the crucifixes and
+    saints; then picking out a dark corner he opened his cloth, took out his glasses,
+    lighted the candle and squatted for his operation. Taking one of the crystal balls
+    between his fingers, he held it between the flame and his eye and looked intently
+    into it, as if seeking something. One after another, the five crystals were carefully
+    examined. Finally, laying the last aside, he shook his head. He could see nothing,
+    nothing whatever, that interested the gentleman, unless indeed sickness; this he
+    pointed out in one of the little balls; redness, fever. Being urged to try again,
+    after an interval he got down to real business; he took the <i>aguardiente</i>,
+    dipped the crystals into the liquor, repeating formulas as he did so, and again made
+    the test, but with no better result. He could see nothing, absolutely nothing, of
+    stolen property; there was nothing in the crystal of interest to the gentleman,
+    except fever; that there was, he was certain. This practice of divining by means of
+    crystals is a survival from the old pagan days. It is probable that there is no
+    indian town of any size in Yucatan where some <i>h'men</i> does not make use of
+    it.</p>
+    <p>We had now finished our work with Maya Indians, except the measurement of a few
+    women and the making of a single bust. Upon rather strong representation to the
+    <i>jefe</i>, a desperate effort was made by the policemen and the women were secured.
+    Among the village police-force, one man had attracted our particular attention, as
+    representing a type of face, quite common among the Mayas, which we have called the
+    serpent-face. It is round and broad, with retreating chin and receding forehead, and
+    with curious, widely-separated, expressionless eyes. We had <a
+    name="page312" id="page312"/>already measured and photographed the
+    subject, but, because he was a policeman and had been useful, we thought we would not
+    subject him to the operation of bust-making. Seeing, however, that no other equally
+    good subject had presented itself, we decided to make his bust, and told him so. To
+    our surprise he refused. The <i>jefe</i>, for once, acted promptly and without
+    hesitation issued an absolute order that the man's bust should be made. The order had
+    no effect. The officials scolded, threatened, but Modesto Kan was immovable. The
+    <i>jefe</i> ordered that he should be thrown into jail, which order was promptly
+    obeyed, but all to no purpose. Our subject said we might whip him, fine him, keep him
+    in jail, or kill him, but he would not have his bust made. Hours passed, and neither
+    remonstrance nor threats on the part of the <i>jefe</i> or ourselves were of the
+    least avail. On my last interview with him, I found him lying on a mat with so high a
+    fever that I dared not urge the matter further, and we desisted from our efforts to
+    secure him. It was the only subject among 3,000 Indians, with whom we failed to carry
+    out our work.</p>
+    <p>A story which the old judge had told us had its influence in my permitting this
+    subject to escape. These Mayas often die for spite, or because they have made up
+    their mind to do so. Don Manuel at one time was summoned by a rich indian with whom
+    he was well acquainted. The man was not old, and had land, good houses, many head of
+    cattle, much maize, and many fowls. He had three children, and owned the houses near
+    his own in which they lived. Everything was prospering with him. Yet the message to
+    the judge was that he should come at once to hear this indian's last words. With a
+    companion he hastened to the house, and found the man in his hammock, dressed in his
+    best clothes, waiting for them. He seemed in perfect health. When they accosted him,
+    he told them <a name="page313" id="page313"/>he
+    was about to make his will, and say his last words. They told him that a man in
+    health had a perfect right to make his will, but remonstrated with him for saying
+    that he was about to speak his last words. He insisted, however, that he was about to
+    die. In vain they argued with him; he had had his dream. He gave to one child, house,
+    animals, corn, poultry; to the second, similar gifts; to the third, the same. Then,
+    having bidden them all farewell, he lay down in his hammock, took no food or drink,
+    spoke to no one, and in six days was dead. Such cases are not uncommon among Maya
+    indians of pure blood.</p>
+    <p>When we reached home that night we found Ramon unwell. Next day, the last of our
+    stay at Tekax he was suffering with fever. He had done no work while we were absent
+    the day before, and all the packing and doing-up of plaster fell upon the others of
+    the party. As for him, he collapsed so completely that it scared me. The ordinary
+    <i>mestizo</i> has no power of resistance; no matter how trifling the disease, he
+    suffers frightfully and looks for momentary dissolution. It was plain from the first
+    moment that Ramon believed that he had the yellow fever; instead of trying to keep at
+    work or occupying himself with something which would distract his attention, he
+    withdrew into the least-aired corner of a hot room and threw himself onto heap of
+    rugs and blankets, in which he almost smothered himself, cut off from every breath of
+    fresh air. In vain we urged him to exert himself; in the middle of the afternoon we
+    took him to the doctor, who assured us that the case was in no way serious&mdash;at
+    the worst nothing more than a light attack of malaria. In the afternoon the
+    <i>jefe</i>, neglecting the <i>padre</i>, invited the judge of <i>primera
+    instancia</i> and myself to accompany him upon a little expedition to the neighboring
+    Cave of the Fifth of May. We went in a coach, taking Louis, who sat with the driver,
+    as <a name="page314" id="page314"/>
+    photographer; on the way, we visited the town cemetery, which we found a dreary
+    place, with no effort at adornment and with an air of general neglect. We passed a
+    number of places where they were boiling sugar, and at one we stopped to see the mode
+    of dipping calabashes for <i>dulces</i>; the fruits are gourd-like, but have
+    considerable soft pulp within the thin, hard crust; several holes are bored through
+    the external shell and the calabashes, slung by strings into groups at the end of a
+    pole, are dipped into the boiling sap or syrup; the dipping is done two or even three
+    times, and the clusters are removed and allowed to drip and dry between dips. The
+    loose flesh is soaked through with the syrup, making a rich, sweet mass, much used
+    for desserts. Finally, we turned into another place where sugar was being made, and
+    found it the cleanest and neatest of its kind. Here we sampled little cakes of clean
+    brown sugar, and were treated with similar cakes in which peanuts and squash-pips
+    were embedded, making a delicious confection. We were here supplied with a clean,
+    fresh <i>j&iacute;cara</i> cup, and, walking along the path a few rods, ascended
+    slightly to the mouth of the cave, which was far handsomer than we had expected. The
+    limestone of Yucatan abounds in caves and subterranean water-courses, especially near
+    the base of the ridge already mentioned. The mouth of the cavern was fringed with
+    ferns and other vegetation. A flight of rustic steps led down to the nearly level
+    floor of red cave-earth. The light from outside entered sufficiently to show the
+    greater portion of the cave. The rock walls, opposite the opening, were brilliantly
+    green with some minute growth; from the floor rose a heap of stone upon the top of
+    which was set an <i>olla</i> of large size to catch the water dripping from the roof;
+    it was full of most beautifully clear, cool water, which we dipped out with our
+    <i>j&iacute;cara</i> and drank. At two or three other places on the <a name="page315" id="page315"/>floor, and on
+    projections from the side walls of the cave, were other <i>ollas</i>, or broken
+    water-troughs of stone, for catching water. Lighting our candles we went behind a
+    pendant veil of thick stalagmite. At some spots hummocks of snow-white crystalline
+    matter, with a reticulated surface, had been deposited by dripping water. A few great
+    masses of stalagmite rose from the floor, and there were some columns of the same
+    material. On returning from the cavern, nothing would do but we must breakfast with
+    the <i>jefe</i>, which we did, in state, though at our usual boarding-house.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image072a.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>FRESHLY-DIPPED CALABASHES, NEAR TEKAX</b></p>
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image072b.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>THE COACH THAT CARRIED US TO THE STATION; TEKAX</b></p>
+<br />
+
+    <p>The three great industries about Tekax are sugar, hennequ&iacute;n, and liquor.
+    Father Juan insisted that we should visit one of the local distilleries, of which
+    there are fourteen in Tekax. Sugar, ground with water into a thick syrup, is drawn
+    off from the mill into great vats, where it is permitted to ferment; it is then taken
+    into the still, where it is heated and vaporized, and the vapor carried up into high
+    towers for condensation. These three-storied, square, wooden towers, with
+    ventilator-shafts, are one of the characteristic features of the town.</p>
+    <p>Padre Juan insisted on supplying a coach for our leaving, in the morning. This
+    coach, like those at M&eacute;rida, was an extremely small affair, for a single
+    horse. Under any circumstances it would scarcely carry three persons, without
+    luggage, besides the driver. When it is remembered that our party, (consisting of
+    four), the stout <i>padre</i>, four satchels, measuring-rod, tin pan and blankets,
+    made up the load, it can be easily appreciated that the little coach was full. We
+    rode slowly, and the poor, creaking vehicle threatened to fall to pieces every
+    moment, but we reached the station safely. It was scarcely ten when we arrived at
+    M&eacute;rida and took our old quarters at the Moromuzo. Our invalid at once lay
+    down, and neither threats nor bribes would move <a
+    name="page316" id="page316"/>him; he looked as if he suffered, but he
+    insisted on doing so; going to the nearest drug store we described his symptoms to
+    the apothecary, who assured us that the case could not be serious, and supplied a
+    remedy which was rapid and energetic in its action, though our sick man insisted that
+    he was not improved.</p>
+    <p>We were now but waiting for notice of a vessel sailing from Progreso for
+    Coatzacoalcos. Writing, errands, visits, filled up the time, but it was dreary
+    waiting. The muddy streets, the heavy, moist, fetid air, the outrageous prices, the
+    mosquitoes&mdash;all combined to make a disagreeable experience. We worried through
+    three days, and still no announcement of a boat. In a visit made to the bishop, to
+    tell him of our kind reception in Tekax and to make inquiry regarding books printed
+    in the Maya, we were again warned by the prelate to be most careful of our health;
+    that day, he told us, two of our countrymen, working at the electric-light plant, had
+    been stricken with yellow fever and would surely die. The second day we were in town
+    the boys met Don Poncio, one of the Spanish comrades of the <i>padre</i> at Tekax,
+    who, with another of the household, had run away, leaving the good priest alone, as
+    the young fellow who had been ill in the room next ours developed a full case of
+    yellow fever the day we left, and was dead before night.</p>
+    <p>One day we went to a <i>cenote</i> for a bath. Passing through a house into a
+    rather pretty garden, we came to a stairway, partly natural and partly cut in the
+    solid rock, which we descended; we found ourselves in a natural cave, with a pool of
+    blue, transparent water. A paved platform surrounded one side of the cave, and near
+    its rear edge was a bench of masonry, which was continued along the side of the pool
+    by a similar bench, cut partly from the living rock. The water was so clear that we
+    could see, by the light coming <a name="page317"
+    id="page317"/>from above, to its very bottom, and could detect little
+    black fishes, like bull-heads, against the sand and pebbles. The pool was irregular
+    in shape, so that a portion of it was out of sight behind the rock-wall, beyond which
+    we found that there was a paved floor and benching similar to that in the portion
+    which we had entered. We had a delightful and refreshing swim in this underground
+    pool, but it was noticeable that, after we came out into the air, there was no
+    evaporation of water from the body, and towels were absolutely necessary for drying.
+    Such <i>cenotes</i> are found in many parts of Yucatan, and form the regular
+    bathing-places, and are often the only natural supplies of drinking-water. Of streams
+    above ground there are practically none in the whole peninsula.</p>
+    <p>The last day of our stay in M&eacute;rida we saw the <i>xtoles</i>. These are
+    bands of indian dancers who go from house to house during the carnival season; they
+    are dressed in costumes which reproduce some features of the ancient indian dress. In
+    the little company which we saw were fifteen dancers, including the standard-bearer;
+    all were males, but half of them were dressed like females and took the part of such.
+    The male dancers wore the usual white <i>camisa</i> and drawers, but these had a red
+    stripe down the side of the leg; jingling hawk-bells of tin or brass were attached to
+    various parts of their dress; a red belt encircled the waist; all wore sandals. The
+    "female" dancers wore white dresses of the usual sort, with decorated borders at the
+    arm and neck; also necklaces of gold beads and gold chains with pendants. Two of the
+    dancers were little children, but the rest appeared to be young men up to about
+    thirty-five years of age. All wore crowns upon the head; these consisted of a circlet
+    of tin, from which rose two curved strips, which intersected over the middle of the
+    head; from the circlet rose four feathers&mdash;either natural or made of <a name="page318" id="page318"/>tin. Two of the
+    crowns of special size, with real feathers, marked the king and queen. Under the
+    crowns, covering the top of the head and hanging down from the shoulders, were gay
+    handkerchiefs of red or blue. All the dancers were masked. The men wore bandoliers of
+    cotton, worked with bright designs representing animals, birds and geometrical forms;
+    the square ends of these were hung with marine shells. In their hands, the dancers
+    carried curious rattles and fans, which they used in making graceful movements as
+    they danced. The handle of the fan consisted of the leg and foot of a turkey, while
+    the body was composed of the brilliant and beautifully spotted feathers of the
+    ocellated turkey, a bird peculiar to Yucatan and the adjacent country. There were two
+    musicians, one with a long <i>pito</i>, or fife, and the other with a <i>huehuetl</i>
+    or drum, which he struck with his hand. Hanging to the side of the drum near the top
+    was a turtle-shell, upon which the drummer beat, from time to time, with a deer's
+    horn. A standard was carried by the company, which bore a representation of the sun,
+    with dancers and a serpent; the pole by which it was carried was surmounted with a
+    tin disk representing the sun's face. The music was apparently of indian origin and
+    the words of the song were Maya. The dancing itself was graceful and accompanied by
+    many curious movements. Mr. Thompson, our American consul to Yucatan, believes this
+    dance is ancient, and thinks he has found representations of it painted on the walls
+    of ancient ruins at Chichen Itza.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image073a.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>THE XTOLES; M&eacute;rida</b></p>
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image073b.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>THE XTOLES; M&eacute;rida</b></p>
+<br />
+
+
+    <p>M&eacute;rida prides itself upon its carnival, which, it claims, ranks
+    third,&mdash;Venice and New Orleans alone surpassing it. It was admitted that the
+    celebration of this year was far below that of others. The cause of this dullness was
+    generally stated to be the great amount of sickness prevalent in the city. However
+    that may be, it certainly was a tame affair. On the 15th two processions took place,
+    one in the<a name="page319" id="page319"/>
+    morning, the other in the afternoon; these were arranged by two clubs of young
+    people, and each desired to surpass the other. We saw that of the afternoon, and
+    found it not particularly interesting. A number of private carriages, drawn up in
+    line, passed through the streets; within were gentlemen, ladies and children, but few
+    of them wore masks, or were otherwise notable; besides these, in the procession, were
+    five allegorical cars. One represented a gilded boat containing pretty girls; it was
+    arranged to seem to rise and fall upon a billowy sea. A second float represented the
+    well-known ancient statue, the Chacmool; an indian, in the attitude of the figure
+    mentioned, held an <i>olla</i> upon his breast, while one or two others stood near
+    him as guards or companions. The most attractive float was loaded with the products
+    of Yucatan, and a group of figures symbolizing its industries and interests. Upon the
+    fourth, a female figure stood erect in a chariot drawn by lions. The fifth was comic,
+    and represented marriage in public and private&mdash;a vulgar couple indulging in
+    affectionate display before a partition, and in a conjugal quarrel behind it. These
+    floats were scattered at intervals through the procession, which was of no great
+    length.</p>
+    <p>By this time Ramon had suffered violent agonies, and had become so weak that
+    assistance was needed when he walked. The second day in M&eacute;rida we had sent for
+    a competent physician, who assured us that nothing was the matter excepting an
+    unimportant attack of bilious fever, and that with a day or two of treatment he
+    should be entirely recovered. On his second visit he was much irritated, as the young
+    man had not made the promised improvement, and assured us that there was no cause for
+    his collapse. During our first visit to M&eacute;rida, in hunting through the city
+    for Protestants&mdash;a practice in which he invariably indulged whenever we reached
+    a town of consequence&mdash;<a name="page320"
+    id="page320"/>Ramon had happened on an interesting little man who
+    represents the American Bible Society in this district. By name Fernandez, this
+    gentleman was born in Argentina, educated in Spain, and has served as colporteur in
+    the states of Chiapas, Tabasco and Yucatan for upwards of a dozen years. He was
+    stout, active, and vivacious; he claimed to have been in every town in Chiapas, and
+    gave us much advice regarding our journey to that state; he called upon us several
+    times during our stay, and shared the general disgust over our sick man, who, he
+    assured us, had nothing serious the matter, and only needed to arouse himself to
+    throw off the bilious attack from which he suffered. On the streets we met the baron
+    who had been with us on our voyage from Tampico. He told us that after one day in
+    M&eacute;rida, he and his lady decided that they preferred Progreso, and were
+    stopping there, going down upon the day-train when they wished to visit
+    M&eacute;rida. He also warned us that we need never expect to see the forty dollars
+    which we had advanced through the vice-consul, as whatever disposition should be made
+    of our complaint regarding customs charges by the government, no such money was ever
+    known to leave his hands. Following events entirely confirmed this gentleman's dire
+    prophecy; neither Mr. Thompson nor Se&ntilde;or Solis have paid the least attention
+    to communications regarding the matter sent after our return to our own country. It
+    is little likely that the Mexican government refused to refund the payment; but we
+    shall probably never know.</p>
+    <p>The remarks of the baron suggested a new line of action. Why longer wait in
+    M&eacute;rida for our boat? Progreso is cleaner, cooler, enjoys a sea breeze, and
+    gives as good living for less than half the price we were paying. For comfort, for
+    the benefit of our sick man, for the advantage of our pocket, we would be better off
+    at Progreso than in M&eacute;rida. While there were cases of small-pox in the little
+    seaport, <a name="page321" id="page321"/>there
+    were none of yellow fever. In every way it looked attractive, and on Monday morning
+    we left, and found ourselves, before noon, comfortably located in the curious little
+    hotel, La Estrella de Oro, in Progreso. To be sure, our rooms were mere stalls, being
+    separated from each other by board partitions scarcely eight feet in height, and
+    without ceiling, so that it was impossible to escape the conversation in neighboring
+    rooms at night. The table, however, was excellent, and the price, compared with what
+    we had been paying, economy itself. Having seen my companions comfortably located, I
+    returned to M&eacute;rida, where there was still some business demanding attention.
+    This time I found a room in the Hotel Concordia, which was the most comfortable I
+    enjoyed in M&eacute;rida, although the price of $4 for the mere room was high. The
+    day before, we had seen the Battle of Flowers of the carnival. No flowers figured in
+    it; it consisted of a long procession of carriages, mostly private and mostly good;
+    they were filled with well-dressed young people, of whom few were masked; all were
+    supplied with confetti, which was thrown in handfuls by those in the carriages upon
+    those in carriages going in the other direction, for the procession was double.
+    Usually, girls and ladies threw at men and boys, who reciprocated the compliment; the
+    ladies had their hair loose and flowing, and wore no hats; so that in a little time
+    it was filled with the brilliant bits of paper. Everyone, also, had long strips of
+    colored paper, rolled up like ribbons, which were now and then launched, either with
+    no direct aim or at some person; as these strips unrolled they trailed prettily in
+    the air, and everyone caught at the trailing streamers. Crowds of poor children
+    chased along, beside and behind the carriages, catching at the showers of bits of
+    paper, and at the long streamers, which they kept, or, in turn, hurled at passers.
+    The balconies of all the better houses were filled with people, <a name="page322" id="page322"/>as were the seats and
+    raised platform fronting the town-house, and those in the balconies and on the seats
+    rained down paper upon those in the carriages. Many children in the balconies were
+    masked, and wore grotesque costumes, but few grown persons were so decked out. While
+    pretty and characteristic, the Battle of Flowers disappointed us, lacking the life
+    and "abandon" which one usually associates with the idea of carnival. It was all
+    reserved, and respectable, and unenthusiastic. The only persons who really seemed to
+    enjoy it were the poor children, with their loads of bright paper and long streamers.
+    Monday afternoon, the most striking function of the carnival, so far seen, took
+    place. This was an enormous procession of vehicles; private carriages, with elaborate
+    equipment, were filled with finely-dressed gentlemen and ladies; common rented
+    coaches were in line, and some of them were loaded to their full capacity with common
+    people&mdash;four, five, or even six, in one; in one were four brawny, young
+    <i>cargadors</i>; in another an old grandmother, her two daughters, and some
+    grandchildren, pure indians, rode complacently, enjoying the admiration which they
+    knew their best clothes must attract; in some of the fine private coaches, no one but
+    indian nurses or favored servants rode. Even here, few of the parties were really
+    dashing, lively or beautiful. The whole thing was constrained, artificial and sedate.
+    An occasional group seemed to really enjoy the occasion. One bony horse dragged an
+    ancient buggy or cart, which might well be that of some country doctor, and in it was
+    the gentleman himself, commonly dressed, but with a whole family of little people,
+    who were bubbling over with enjoyment. Another happy party was that of a common
+    carter, who had his own dray in the line, with his children, neatly but commonly
+    dressed, as its only occupants; in two or three carriages were maskers, though none
+    of them appeared funny; one<a name="page323"
+    id="page323"/> drayman's cart had been hired by a crowd of loud and
+    boisterous youngsters, who performed all kinds of pranks and bawled nonsensical
+    remarks to the crowd.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image074a.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>CARNIVAL AT PROGRESO</b></p>
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image074b.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>CARNIVAL AT PROGRESO</b></p>
+<br />
+
+    <p>My chief errand was to see the leader of the <i>xtoles</i>, to purchase from him
+    some of the objects which they had used in their dance. Just as I was starting, at
+    evening, for the address he had given me, I met Se&ntilde;or Fernandez in the plaza,
+    and he agreed to accompany me to the place. We went some little distance on the
+    street-car, and, dismounting at the corner of a narrow lane, were about to start
+    through it, when someone touched my companion on the arm, and greeted him. He
+    recognized the owner of the little shop before which we stood. Heartily invited to
+    enter the <i>tienda</i>, we did so and stated the object of our quest. The shopkeeper
+    at once said that we must have a lantern, as the road was dark, and ordered his clerk
+    to accompany us with one, for which we were truly thankful. We came, finally, to the
+    house where Don Gregorio, the leader of the dancers, lived. Fernandez was friendly
+    and voluble, greeting every company of girls and women that we met, or who were at
+    the house, as "<i>lindas</i>," and passing compliments. He was, however, uneasy,
+    continually glancing around and asking repeatedly when Don Gregorio would appear. The
+    dancers were still absent, but expected every moment; in fact, we could hear their
+    music in the distance. When, finally, they did appear, their leader, who was very
+    drunk, insisted that he could not treat in the matter until after the next day, which
+    would be the culmination of the carnival, and their chief day for dancing. The
+    instant that we received this answer, Fernandez seized the lantern, which the clerk
+    had left, and, grasping me by the arm, we started off at breakneck pace. As we almost
+    rushed down the stony road, he looked furtively to right and left, and told me that
+    there were, no doubt, persons in the neighborhood who had <a
+    name="page324" id="page324"/>recognized him, and said that, more than
+    once, in this very neighborhood, he had been stoned when selling bibles, and that any
+    moment we ran our chances of a night attack. Apparently, however, people were too
+    much excited over carnival to waste their time in baiting Protestants, and we heard
+    no whizzing missiles, and soon, reaching the corner shop, left the lantern, and went
+    home. There had been doubt as to whether trains would run the following day, Tuesday,
+    on account of carnival. I found, however, that the train on which I had counted,
+    leaving at seven in the morning, went as usual, though it was the only train of the
+    day for Progreso. My companions were delighted to see me, and I found our sick man
+    sure that death was imminent; to tell the truth, he was constantly spitting black
+    blood, which oozed from his gums, and which gave me more concern than any of his
+    previous symptoms. We found the carnival at Progreso more natural and unpretentious,
+    but also far more lively and amusing, than anything in M&eacute;rida. To be sure,
+    some of the performances bordered on the indecent, but on the whole, it was jolly,
+    and scarcely gave cause for Manuel's pious ejaculation that there were many
+    <i>abusos</i>. Groups of men and boys went through the streets decked with ribbons
+    and flowers, and with their faces painted or daubed; many carried handfuls of flour,
+    or of blue paint, which they dashed into the faces or over the clean clothes of those
+    they met; bands of maskers danced through the streets; companies of almost naked
+    boys, daubed with colors, played <i>toro</i> with one who was inside a frame of wood.
+    One man, completely naked, painted grotesquely, pranced through the streets on all
+    fours; young fellows, dressed in women's clothes, with faces masked or painted,
+    wandered about singly, addressing persons on the street in a high falsetto voice with
+    all sorts of woeful stories or absurd questions. Very pretty was a <a name="page325" id="page325"/>company of trained
+    dancers,&mdash;with a standard, leader, music, and fancy costume,&mdash;each of whom
+    carried two staves in his hands; these performed a variety of graceful movements, and
+    sung a song in Spanish; this was interestingly like the song of the <i>xtoles</i>,
+    and the movements were almost precisely theirs. In the evening, we attended the
+    <i>baile de los mestizos</i>&mdash;dance of the <i>mestizos</i>, where the elite of
+    the little city was gathered, and the place was crowded. Very little of it was
+    enough, for while the music and dancing were all right, the heat, the tobacco-smoke,
+    and the perfume, were overpowering.</p>
+    <p>To our joy, on Wednesday, the "Hidalgo" appeared, bound for Coatzacoalcos. All day
+    Thursday we waited for it to unload its cargo, and on Friday morning, we loaded into
+    a little sail-boat at the wharf, which we hired for a price far below what the
+    regular steamer would have charged to take us to our vessel. The luggage had been
+    weighed and valued, and an imposing bill of lading, and an official document, had
+    been made out, to prevent our paying duty a third time when we should reach our port.
+    At 10:30 we were on the "Hidalgo," ready for leaving. It is the crankiest steamer on
+    the Ward Line, and dirty in the extreme. The table is incomparably bad. The one
+    redeeming feature is that the first-class cabins are good, and on the upper deck,
+    where they receive abundance of fresh air; there were plenty of seats for everyone to
+    sit upon the deck, a thing which was not true of the "Benito Juarez." Of other
+    first-class passengers, there were two harmless Yucatecan gentlemen&mdash;one of whom
+    was seasick all the voyage,&mdash;and two Americans, brothers, one from St. Louis,
+    Mo., and the other from Springfield, Ill. The captain of our vessel was a Norwegian,
+    the first officer was a Mexican, the chief engineer an American, the purser a
+    low-German, the chief steward an Oaxaca indian, and the cook a Filipino.<a name="page326" id="page326"/> Never was I so glad
+    to reach a resting-place, never so relieved, as when we got our baggage and our sick
+    man safely on board. As to the latter, he at once lay down, and, practically, was not
+    on his feet during the voyage. We had expected to make the run in thirty hours, but
+    were hindered by rough weather, catching portions of two northers; the second was so
+    bad that, when almost in sight of our destination, we were forced to put to sea
+    again, and lost many hours of time and miles of distance. On the morning of the third
+    day, however, we had dropped anchor, and on looking from the cabins at five, caught
+    sight of Coatzacoalcos; but it was not the Coatzacoalcos of 1896. Prodigious changes
+    had taken place. The Pearson Company, having taken possession of the railroad, had
+    made great improvements; their pretentious general-offices, located at the wharf, had
+    recently been completed; the railroad station had been improved; the old shack, where
+    we slept in 1896, had been torn down, and a construction track occupied its place; on
+    the little rise behind, a pretty and large hotel had been erected; on the higher
+    land, to the right, a line of well-built houses, making some pretension to
+    architectural effect, had been constructed. It was only after landing, and walking
+    through the older portions of the town, that any familiar scenes were recognized.
+    Though we were ready to land at five, and wished to catch the train at seven, we were
+    forced to wait for the official inspection, and saw the longed-for train&mdash;and
+    there would be no other for two days&mdash;pull out before our eyes. Finally, at nine
+    o'clock, we were permitted to land. To my surprise, my shipping document was called
+    for, but, being produced, we were subjected to no difficulty. The balance of the day
+    was spent in wandering about the village, meeting former acquaintances, attending to
+    odds and ends of shipment, and strolling on the familiar beach, which was still
+    covered with scurrying crabs <a name="page327"
+    id="page327"/>and sprinkled with white "sand dollars." During the
+    night, a terrific norther blew, and the next day, cold, dull gray, rainy, kept us
+    in-doors. By this time, the purser of the "Hidalgo," who had himself had yellow
+    fever, and said he was familiar with it, had convinced us that Ramon really had had a
+    slight touch of that dread disease, but having passed his tenth day of sickness, was
+    destined to recover, and would be no serious menace to other people.</p>
+    <hr style="width: 65%;" />
+    <h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXIII" id="CHAPTER_XXIII"></a>CHAPTER XXIII</h2>
+    <a name="page328" id="page328"/>
+    <h2>OX-CART EXPERIENCES</h2>
+    <h3>(1901)</h3>
+    <p>On the following morning, at seven, we took the railroad train, and at five at
+    night had reached Tehuantepec, and were pleasantly located in our old hotel, the
+    Europa. On February 28, we visited the market, called at the house of the <i>jefe
+    politico</i> for a letter to the town authorities of Huilotepec, and visited Dr.
+    Castle, whom we found much the same as ever. We failed to find the <i>jefe</i> at his
+    office, though we went there several times, but found him sitting in a <i>tienda</i>
+    much the worse for drinking. He was charmed to see us, embraced us warmly, and told
+    us that his thoughts had frequently been with us since our former sojourn in his
+    district. New supplies of wine, and, on the appearance of certain ladies, of
+    champagne, were ordered in witness of his satisfaction. In regard to our desires, he
+    was delighted to learn that Louis was shooting birds, declaring that we were just in
+    time; that he had a damnable order from Mexico to send on skins of all the birds of
+    his district for the National Museum, and that he had not known what to do in the
+    matter; we must prepare them; if we did so, willingly, we should be handsomely paid;
+    but if not, he would be compelled to force us. The jail was ready, and men die easily
+    in Southern Mexico. With this, he made some suggestions that it was easy for a person
+    to be officially reported as accidentally killed, or dead from <i>vomito</i>. He
+    insisted that we should not go alone to Huilotepec, but that he himself would
+    accompany us<a name="page329" id="page329"/> and
+    make sure that everything was done according to our wishes. All these dire threats
+    and great promises were completely forgotten on the following day, when we sallied
+    forth alone.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image075a.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>MANUEL AND AN IGUANA; TEHUANTEPEC</b></p>
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image075b.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>MARKET WOMEN; SAN BLAS</b></p>
+<br />
+
+    <p>In the <i>jefe's</i> office we learned that during the past year not only
+    Coatzacoalcos, but Tehuantepec, had suffered frightfully from yellow fever. Of
+    course, the disease is no rarity on the Gulf coast, though it was never worse than in
+    the last season; but in Tehuantepec, and on the Pacific coast, it is a thing so rare
+    as to be almost unknown. So true is this, that, when it was first reported from this
+    district, the federal government did not believe the story, and sent a commission to
+    investigate. We learned that the commission arrived at evening, and, finding two
+    persons dead in their black vomit on the street, made no further investigation, but
+    started for Mexico on the following train. The spread of the disease to the west
+    coast is generally attributed, and no doubt correctly, to the railroad. The disease
+    was particularly fatal, in both places, to Americans and Englishmen, and it was
+    whispered that 90 per cent of the employes of the new railroad management succumbed.
+    The chief clerk in the <i>jefe's</i> office told us that, while many cases occurred
+    here, no pure indians were taken, and that none of the <i>mestizos</i> who were
+    affected died&mdash;the mortality being confined to the foreigners.</p>
+    <p>Dr. Castle had moved, but his place was as interesting as ever. For pets, he had
+    three hairless dogs, a <i>mapachtl</i>, two macaws, two parrots, and a lot of doves,
+    one of which he had taught tricks. He was much interested in cactuses, and had
+    established a garden in which he planned to have all the species of the district. We
+    had purchased some iguanas in the market, and Louis had been skinning them. The
+    Doctor said that there were three species of iguanas in the district, the largest
+    being green, changing to orange <a name="page330"
+    id="page330"/>or gray, and its flesh not being eaten, as it is too
+    sweet; the second species is of medium size, and gray or black in color; the third is
+    rarer, smaller, and is striped lengthwise; it lives among the rocks near the coast.
+    The two last species are both eaten, and are often sold in market. Here we learned,
+    by a casual remark which Manuel dropped on seeing the ugliest of the hairless dogs,
+    that these are believed, not only here, but in Puebla, and no doubt elsewhere through
+    the Republic, to cure rheumatism. In order to effect a cure, the dog must sleep for
+    three nights with the patient, and the uglier the dog the more certain the cure.
+    Through Dr. Castle, we also learned that the Zapotec Indians hereabouts, have many
+    songs, of which the <i>sandunga</i> is a great favorite. Questioning an indian friend
+    of mine, we afterwards learned that there are many of these pieces of music which are
+    held to be truly indian. The words are largely Zapotec; Spanish words are scattered
+    through the song, and the sentiment is largely borrowed. Most of the songs are
+    love-songs, and they abound in metaphorical expressions. Our little trip to
+    Huilotepec was for the purpose of photographing the curious and interesting
+    <i>mapa</i> belonging to the village. We rode out over the hot and dusty river-bed
+    road, arriving at noon. Sending for the <i>agente</i> and <i>secretario</i>, we
+    ordered breakfast and made known our errand. Though it plainly was not to their
+    taste, the <i>mapa</i> was brought out for our inspection. It is painted on a piece
+    of coarse cotton cloth, of native weaving, in three colors&mdash;blue, red and black.
+    The places around Huilotepec are indicated by their ancient hieroglyphs. Several
+    personages of the ancient time are represented in the conventional manner commonly
+    used in Zapotec writings before the Conquest. After eating, we placed the <i>mapa</i>
+    against the wall, wrote out a description of it, and photographed it. Dismay now
+    filled the soul of the <i>agente</i>, and the one <i>principal</i> whom he had
+    summoned <a name="page331" id="page331"/>for
+    advice. They talked long and earnestly with me about the <i>mapa</i>, and begged me
+    to assure the <i>jefe</i> that it was no good; that it was not <i>autorizado</i>;
+    that it was <i>mudo</i>. To quiet their fears, I was compelled to write a letter to
+    that effect to be delivered to the <i>jefe</i>; if it ever came to hand, he certainly
+    found it incomprehensible. Mrs. Seler, in her book, describes the trouble that they
+    had in seeing this <i>mapa</i>, and the interest which their examination of it
+    aroused. Dr. Castle told us that, several years ago, he accompanied a Mr. Werner and
+    a priest to Huilotepec to see the <i>mapa</i>, and, if possible, to secure a picture
+    of it. For a long time they were unable to secure a glimpse of the old document, and
+    it was only when the priest assured the indians that the doctor was an American
+    engineer, who had been commissioned to survey the line in dispute between the village
+    and the Juaves, that they were allowed to see it. Before permission was then given, a
+    general meeting of the <i>principales</i> was held, and none of the guests were
+    permitted to touch the document. Mr. Werner made an exposure, which he sent to the
+    States for development; it was lost or destroyed. It is thus possible that ours is
+    the only picture of it in existence.</p>
+    <p>We had been told that a coach went regularly from San Geronimo to Tuxtla
+    Gutierrez, making the journey in two days. This seemed too good to be true, and no
+    one at Tehuantepec knew anything of such an arrangement, but we took the train the
+    following morning for San Geronimo, hoping to get off without delay. All that the
+    traveller sees upon descending from the train is the station, the place of
+    Se&ntilde;or Espindola, and the little Hotel Europa. To our surprise, we found that
+    our baggage had not yet come from Coatzacoalcos, although we had seen it loaded on
+    the train ourselves. Still worse, we were informed that frequently fifteen days were
+    consumed in transportation of freight <a name="page332"
+    id="page332"/>from that point hither, and that we had no right to
+    expect it so promptly. Inquiry regarding the coach revealed the fact that no such
+    vehicle existed. Six hard days of horseback riding would be necessary for the
+    journey, and, though Ramon admitted himself to be much better, he was too weak for
+    such an undertaking. This had had its influence in determining us to go by coach in
+    the first place. When in doubt as to what we should do, Se&ntilde;or Espindola
+    suggested that the journey could be made by ox-cart in ten or eleven days. Though
+    this seemed slow, it was better than to run risks with our invalid, and we determined
+    to journey in that fashion as soon as our luggage should appear.</p>
+    <p>The station is situated on a somewhat elevated plain, constantly swept by heavy
+    winds. While we were there, this wind was hot, and loaded with dust. In the
+    afternoon, we walked through the indian town, which extends over a considerable area.
+    The houses are rectangular, with adobe walls, mostly whitewashed, and with steep,
+    pitched roofs. We met a funeral procession in the road, with the usual band in front.
+    The coffin open, so as to show the child, was carried on the shoulders of several
+    men. The mother, in contortions of real or simulated grief, was supported by two
+    women, and the mourners brought up the rear, wailing now and then. Among the mourners
+    was a woman who suffered from black <i>pinto</i>, notably developed. The principal
+    industry of the town is pottery. The clay, which is of a greyish-black color, is
+    stiff and hard, and is first broken up with a mallet. When worked into a stiff paste,
+    it is built by hand into great <i>ollas</i> and plates, one and a half or two feet in
+    diameter. These <i>ollas</i> we saw at many houses, and sometimes they were lashed to
+    carts, plainly for bringing water from the stream. A single <i>olla</i> thus lashed,
+    practically filled a fair-sized cart.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image076a.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>DRYING POTTERY; SAN GERONIMO</b></p>
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image076b.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>CART AND OLLA; SAN GERONIMO</b></p>
+<br />
+
+    <p>The little hotel at the station is a new venture, and<a
+    name="page333" id="page333"/> deserves complete success. At few places
+    in Mexico have we found meals so good and cheap. In the evening, more from curiosity
+    than expectation, we watched the train come from the east, and to our surprise and
+    satisfaction, found our luggage. We had really made up our minds that we must spend
+    some days in waiting; on the whole, the quiet and comfort of the little tavern would
+    not have been unpleasant; but we hastened at once to Se&ntilde;or Espindola, and
+    urged him to make instant arrangements for our leaving in the morning. To this he
+    replied that no <i>carretero</i> would be likely to start on Sunday, and that we
+    would have to wait until the following day. Matters turned out better than
+    anticipated, and before nine, the following morning, our arrangements had been made.
+    Two <i>carretas</i> were hired, at twenty-eight pesos each, to make the journey; our
+    driver agreed that, without counting that day, he could get us to Tuxtla in eight
+    days; in order to encourage him, we promised to pay five pesos extra for each
+    <i>carreta</i>, in case we reached the city of Tuxtla on Monday the 11th. His name
+    was Eustasio; he was a good-natured little Zapotec, from Juchitan originally, but
+    living now at Guvi&ntilde;o, Union Hidalgo. He warned us that, for the first day, we
+    would have to put up with some discomfort, but that, upon reaching his home, he would
+    fit us out magnificently. He promised to start at four that afternoon, and we were
+    ready; of course, he was not, nor was he at five; so we went back to the hotel for a
+    last good supper, and finally at 5:50 started. There were four teams and carts in the
+    company, loaded with freight for Hidalgo. The night was clear, with a fine moon. The
+    road was over heavy sand. Sometimes we walked in the moonlight, passing Ixtaltepec at
+    8:30, and reaching Espinal at ten, where we lost three-quarters of an hour in loading
+    freight. From there all went well, until a-quarter-of-two in the morning, when we
+    were passing through a <a name="page334"
+    id="page334"/>country covered with scrub timber. Here we constantly
+    met many carts heavily loaded; the road was narrow, and several times collisions, due
+    to the falling asleep of one or other of the <i>carreteros</i>, were narrowly
+    escaped. Finally, one really did take place, between our second cart and a heavily
+    loaded one going in the other direction. The axle of our cart was broken, and the
+    vehicle totally disabled. Two hours and a quarter were consumed in making repairs and
+    in reloading. Here, for the first time, we were impressed with two characteristics in
+    our driver: first, his ability to swear, surpassing anything that we had ever heard;
+    second, his astonishing skill and ingenuity in repairing any accident or break, which
+    happened on the road. Before our journey was over, we learned that both these
+    qualities are common to his profession. It was four o'clock in the morning before we
+    were again upon our way. All hope of reaching Union Hidalgo at the promised hour
+    disappeared. Before sunrise, we had turned into the hot, dusty, broad, straight
+    high-road, which, after my journey of 1896, I had devoutly hoped never to see again.
+    Just as the sun rose, we took quite a walk, killing some parrots, <i>calandrias</i>,
+    and <i>chacalaccas</i> as we walked. They said that
+    <i>javali</i>&mdash;peccaries,&mdash;were common there. The day was blisteringly hot,
+    long before we reached Union Hidalgo; hot, hungry and sleepy, we reached our carter's
+    home, a little before ten in the morning. The <i>carreta</i> in which we were
+    travelling was here far ahead, and after we had rested half-an-hour or more, Manuel,
+    hot and perspiring, appeared, and reported that the disabled cart had broken down
+    again, and that the other two were delayed by a sick animal. All came straggling in
+    later. We had planned to leave here toward evening, travelling all Monday night; but
+    hardly had we rested a little, and eaten dinner, when Eustasio announced that we
+    should spend the night here, and not leave until the following<a name="page335" id="page335"/> afternoon. He said
+    the animals were hot and tired from travelling in the daytime, and that to push on
+    would defeat our plans. He swore that, unless God decreed otherwise, we should reach
+    Tuxtla Gutierrez by the promised date. There was nothing for it but submission,
+    though we would gladly have chosen a more interesting town than Union Hidalgo for a
+    stay of almost two days. When evening came, I took my bed of poles out into the open
+    air, into the space between two houses; Ramon lay down upon a loaded <i>carreta</i>,
+    also out of doors, while Louis and Manuel took possession of hammocks in one of the
+    houses. It was a cloudless night, with brilliant moon. The air soon grew cool. After
+    midnight, I was aroused by the most frightful yelling, and opening my eyes, I saw a
+    barefooted, bareheaded Indian yelling out the most frightful imprecations and oaths.
+    At first I thought that he was insulting some one in the house, but both the houses
+    were fast closed. Ramon, completely wrapped in his blanket, could attract no notice,
+    and I did not believe that I had been observed, nor that I was addressed. For quite
+    ten minutes the crazy drunkard stood there in the moonlight, bawling out a frightful
+    torrent of abuse, invective, and profanity, with an occasional "<i>Viva Mexico! Muere
+    Guatemala</i>!" patriotically thrown in. At last he disappeared, but for a long time
+    could be heard howling, as he went from house to house. Believing that it might be
+    well to be prepared for intruders, I arose and pulled a stake from one of the carts,
+    and laid it at my side, upon the bed. But I was soon fast asleep again. Awaking at
+    five, I found myself so cold, and the dew so heavy, that I dressed, and wrapped my
+    blanket around me, and sat up, waiting for daylight. At 5:30 our drunken friend
+    passed again, somewhat less voluble, but still vociferous. He was absolutely crazed
+    with drink, and through the day several times made his appearance, and always with a
+    <a name="page336" id="page336"/> torrent of
+    abuse and profanity which made one's blood run cold. Before the day was well begun, a
+    second person, almost as drunk, but far more quiet, a nice-looking old man, began
+    making similar visits about the village. The two drunkards, differing in age and
+    build, differed also in dress, but on the occasion of one of their visits, they were
+    taken with the crazy notion of exchanging clothes, and proceeded to undress, making
+    the exchange, and re-clothing themselves in garments ridiculously
+    non-fitting&mdash;all with the utmost gravity and unsteadiness. During the day, our
+    <i>carretas</i> were being prepared. Apologizing for the inconvenience of the
+    preceding day, Eustasio proposed to fix our cart "as fine as a church." He put a
+    decent cover over it, and laid our sacks of plaster on the floor. Upon this, he
+    spread a layer of corn-stalks, and over them, a new and clean <i>petate</i>. To be
+    sure, the space left above was low for comfort, and we were horrified when we saw him
+    loading up the second one, not only with the balance of our luggage, but high with
+    maize, fodder, and great nets of ears of corn, to feed the animals. We had supposed
+    that two persons and part of the luggage would go in each of the carts, and never
+    thought of carrying food enough to last four oxen eight days. Crowding four people
+    into our <i>carreta</i> made it impossible to lie down in comfort. Still, such is the
+    custom of the country, and we submitted. During the day we heard a woman crying in a
+    house. Upon investigating, we found that she was the wife of a <i>carretero</i> who
+    had been injured on the road, and for whom a <i>carreta</i> had been sent. Shortly
+    afterward, they brought the poor fellow into town, amid weeping and lamenting. When
+    they took him from the <i>carreta</i> in which he had been brought, he was supported
+    by two men and helped into the house, where he was laid upon a hammock. He groaned
+    with pain, and a crowd of curious villagers pressed into the room.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image077a.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>THE DRUNKARD'S EXCHANGE; UNION
+HIDALGO</b></p>
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image077b.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>BEFORE REACHING UNION HIDALGO</b></p>
+<br />
+
+    <p><a name="page337" id="page337"/> It was easy
+    to locate four broken ribs behind, and he complained of great internal bleeding. It
+    seemed that he had started to climb up onto his moving cart in the usual way, and the
+    stake which he had seized broke, letting him fall to the ground under the wheel of
+    the heavily-loaded cart, which passed over his body.</p>
+    <p>Finally, all was ready, and at about five in the evening we started. Packed like
+    sardines in a box, we were most uncomfortable. Personally, I did not try to sleep,
+    neither lying down, nor closing my eyes. Shortly after leaving town, we crossed a
+    running stream, and from the other side went over a piece of corduroy, upon which we
+    jounced and jolted. Soon after, we descended into a little gully, from which our team
+    had difficulty in drawing us. The baggage-cart had a more serious time; the team made
+    several attempts to drag it up the slope, but failed, even though our whole company,
+    by pushing and bracing, encouraging and howling, aided. There was a real element of
+    danger in such help, the slipping animals and the back-sliding cart constantly
+    threatening to fall upon the pushers. Finally, the cart was propped upon the slope,
+    and its own team removed; our team, which was heavier and stronger, was then hitched
+    on, but it was only with a hard tug, and with heavy pushing, that success was gained,
+    and the cart reached the summit of the slope. We crossed a fine marsh of salt water,
+    quite like the lagoon at San Mateo del Mar, and were told that we were not far from
+    the Juave town of San Dionisio. From here, the country, was, for a distance, an open
+    plain. With the moonlight, the night was almost as bright as day; cold winds swept
+    sheets of sand and dust over us. At one o'clock, we happened upon a cluster of six or
+    eight carts, drawn up for rest, and the company of travellers were warming themselves
+    at little fires, or cooking a late supper. We learned that this gypsy-like group was
+    a <i>compania comica</i>, a comic <a name="page338"
+    id="page338"/>theatre troupe, who had been playing at Tuxtla, and
+    were now on their way to Juchitan. We never before realized that such travelling of
+    ox-carts as we were now experiencing was a regular matter, and that the carter's
+    trade is a real business. At two o'clock, we stopped to repack our loads, but were
+    shortly on the way again. After the sun rose, we were in misery; the road was deep
+    with dust, and we were grimy, hot, and choking. When the cross that marks the
+    beginning of the land belonging to Ixhuatlan was pointed out, we were delighted, but
+    it was still a long ride before we crossed the little stream and rode into the
+    village.</p>
+    <p>Ixhuatlan is like all the Zapotec towns of this district, but less clean, on
+    account of its lying in the midst of dust, instead of sand. Our carts drew up in a
+    little grove, a regular resting-place for carting companies, where more than fifteen
+    were already taking their daytime rest. Having ordered breakfast, we hastened to the
+    stream, where all enjoyed a bath and cleansing. Coffee, bread, <i>tortillas</i>,
+    eggs, and brandied peaches, made a good impression, and we ordered our buxom young
+    Zapotec cook, who was a hustler, to have an equally good dinner ready at 2:30. We set
+    this hour, believing that she would be late, but she was more than prompt, and called
+    us at two to a chicken dinner. It was interesting to watch the <i>carreteros</i> in
+    the grove. The scenes of starting and arriving, packing and unpacking, chaffing and
+    quarreling, were all interesting. In the lagoons of Vera Cruz, our boatmen applied
+    the term <i>jornada</i> to a straight stretch across a lagoon made at one poling;
+    here among the <i>carreteros</i>, the word <i>jornada</i> means the run made from
+    resting-place to resting-place. In neither case is strict attention paid to the
+    original meaning of the word, a day's journey. Ixhuatlan is a made town; a paternal
+    government, disturbed over the no progress of the pure Juaves in their seaside towns,
+    set aside the ground on <a name="page339"
+    id="page339"/>which this town now rests, and moved a village of
+    Juaves to the spot. High hopes were expressed for the success of the experiment; now,
+    however, the town is not a Juave town. It is true, that a few families of that people
+    still remain, but for the most part, the Juaves have drifted back to the shore, and
+    resumed their fishing, shrimp-catching and salt-making, while the expansive Zapotecs
+    have crowded in, and practically make up the population of the place. Between dinner
+    and our starting, we wandered about the village, dropping into the various houses in
+    search of relics. As elsewhere, we were impressed with the independent bearing and
+    freeness of the Zapotec woman. She talks with everyone, on any subject, shrewdly. She
+    loves to chaff, and is willing to take sarcasm, as freely as she gives it. In one
+    house we had a specially interesting time, being shown a lot of things. The woman had
+    some broken pottery figures of ancient times, but also produced some interesting
+    crude affairs of modern make from Juchitan. These were figures of men and
+    women&mdash;the latter generally carrying babies in indian fashion&mdash;of horses
+    and other animals. As works of art, they make no pretension, but they are stained
+    with native colors, and are used as gifts at New Year's by the common people. Here we
+    saw the making of baked <i>tortillas</i>, and sampled some hot from the oven. Such
+    <i>tortillas</i> are called <i>tortillas del horno</i>&mdash;oven <i>tortillas</i>.
+    Flat <i>tortillas</i>, about the size of a fruit-plate, are fashioned in the usual
+    way; a great <i>olla</i> is sunk in the ground until its mouth is level with the
+    surface. This is kept covered by a <i>comal</i>, or a smaller <i>olla</i>, and a good
+    hot fire of coals is kept burning within. When the <i>tortillas</i> have been shaped,
+    they are stuck on the hot <i>olla</i>, being pressed against the sides, to which they
+    adhere, and are left to bake. In baking, the edges curl up so that the cake, instead
+    of being flat, is saucer-shaped. They are crisp and good. Leaving <a name="page340" id="page340"/>at four, we continued
+    on the hot, deep, dusty road, but saw interesting plants and animals along the way.
+    There were fine displays of the parasitic fig, from examples where the parasite was
+    just beginning to embrace its victim, through cases where it had surrounded the tree
+    with a fine network of its own material, to those where the original tree-trunk was
+    entirely imbedded in the great continuous gray investing trunk of the parasite, now
+    larger than its host. Some trees bore bunches of pale-purple flowers of tubular form,
+    which fell easily from the calyx, and dotted the ground along the roadside. Other
+    trees appeared as if covered with veils of little purplish-red flowers hung over
+    them. Others were a mass of golden bloom, the flowers being about the size of cherry
+    blossoms. A few trees, yet leafless, showed large, brilliant white flowers at the
+    tips of rather slender branches. At Ixhuatlan, we saw the first monkey's comb of the
+    trip. This orange-yellow flower, growing in clusters so curiously shaped as to
+    suggest the name, is among the most characteristic, from this point on through
+    Chiapas into Guatemala. There were but few birds, but among them were macaws and
+    toucans. Eustasio said that in the season, when certain berry-bearing trees are in
+    full fruit, the latter may be seen by hundreds.</p>
+    <p>When night had really fallen, I unwisely sat in front with the driver, to prevent
+    his sleeping, and to keep the animals moving. Both drivers had a way of dozing off,
+    utterly regardless of the movements of the animals or the dangers of the road. Carts
+    going in opposite directions must often depend absolutely upon the oxen for their
+    chance of escaping collisions or being thrown over precipices. Frequently the animals
+    themselves stop, and the whole company is at a standstill until the driver wakes up.
+    In this <i>jornada</i>, we had planned to reach La Frontera, the border of the state
+    of Chiapas, at which place we had been <a name="page341"
+    id="page341"/>promised we should arrive at 8:30 in the morning.
+    Everything had gone well, and we were just about to reach the place, where it was
+    planned to repack for the last time; it was just daylight, and Eustasio was
+    congratulating us upon our prompt arrival; we drove to the brink of a dry stream, on
+    the other side of which was our resting-place; just at that instant, we heard the
+    other driver cry out; we stopped, and found that the baggage-cart was overturned.
+    This dashed all hopes. There was unhitching, unloading, the making of a new axle, and
+    reloading. It was plain that we could not reach La Frontera. While the men were
+    putting things to rights, we strolled up the dry stream-bed to a shanty, where
+    Eustasio told us we could breakfast. There was a well there, with fresh water, and
+    the shanty, for the refreshment of travellers, consisted of nothing but a little
+    shelter of poles. Here, however, we found baked <i>tortillas, atole</i>, and hard
+    meat; the breakfast for four persons, cost twenty-five centavos, equal to ten cents
+    American money. Through the day, birds were hunted and skinned, reading and writing
+    carried on, until at half-past-three in the afternoon we were again ready for
+    movement. The road was now sandy, and not dusty, the sand being produced by the
+    decomposition of crystalline rocks. Mounting to a high <i>llano</i>, we shot a pair
+    of curious birds, which looked like water-birds, but were living in a dry place and
+    were able to run with great speed. They were of the size of a hen, and had a long
+    beak, long legs and four flat though not webbed toes. At the end of this high
+    <i>llano</i>, we passed the Hacienda of Agua Blanca, a property belonging to the
+    <i>jefe</i> of Juchitan. From here, we descended rapidly over a poor road, coming out
+    at nine onto the straight road from Tapanatepec, at this point four leagues behind
+    us. From here on, the whole road was familiar to me. La Frontera was just ahead, and,
+    arriving there at 10 o'clock, we spent <a name="page342"
+    id="page342"/>an hour. Before us rose a massive mountain, the ascent
+    of which seemed appalling. We could see a white line of road zigzagging up its side,
+    and well remembered Governor Leon's pride in having constructed a cart-road against
+    great natural difficulties. Thirty or forty ox-teams had gathered here, either ready
+    to make the ascent, or resting, after having come down the mountain. Having gotten
+    breath and courage, we started at about eleven. The road had suffered during the five
+    years since I last passed over it, but was still an excellent work of engineering. As
+    we mounted, zigzagging constantly, the magnificent view over the valley widened; each
+    new turn increased its beauty. My companions were asleep, and had had so little rest
+    recently, that I hated to disturb them for the view. When, however, we were
+    two-thirds up the slope, they awakened, and were as delighted as myself. We all got
+    out, and walked for a considerable distance. An astonishing number of little streams
+    and pools of fresh water burst forth from the rocks, and cut across the road or
+    flowed along its sides. Finally, we reached the summit, and began the descent. This
+    had made no impression on me when I went over it on horseback, but travelling in an
+    ox-cart was a different matter, and I shall never again forget it. It was less abrupt
+    than the ascent&mdash;less of vertical zigzag, and more of long steady windings. It
+    also was excavated in the solid rock. It was badly neglected, and the cart jolted,
+    and threatened every instant to upset us, or leap into the gulf. Coming out into a
+    more level district, we passed Paraje and Dolores, reaching Carizal at five, where we
+    stopped for the day. This is a regular resting place for <i>carreteros</i>, and there
+    were plenty of carts there for the day.</p>
+    <p>As soon as the oxen were unyoked, I turned out my companions and lay down in the
+    cart, trying to get an hour's sleep before the sun should rise, as I had not closed
+    my <a name="page343" id="page343"/>eyes since
+    leaving Union Hidalgo two days before. I was asleep at once, but in less than an hour
+    was awakened by the assaults of swarms of minute black-flies, whose stings were
+    dreadful. The rest of the company suffered in the same way, so we all got up and went
+    to work. A group of <i>carreteros</i> breakfasting, invited me to eat with
+    them&mdash;hard <i>tortillas, atole</i> and salted meat, formed a much better
+    breakfast than we got, a little later, at the house upon the hill where travellers
+    eat their meals. At this house they had a little parrot which was very tame, and also
+    a <i>chacalacca</i>, which had been hatched by a domestic hen from a captured egg.
+    This bird is more slender and graceful than a hen, but our landlord informed us that
+    its eggs are much larger than those of the common fowl, and much used for food. Both
+    this bird and the little parrot regularly fly off with flocks of their wild fellows,
+    but always come back afterward to the house. This was a most interesting example of
+    an intermediate stage between true wildness and domescation. There was little doing
+    throughout the day. Heat, black-flies, and sunlight all made it impossible to sleep;
+    but we took a bath in the running brook, and skinned some birds, and tasted
+    <i>posole</i> for the first time. <i>Posole</i> is a mixture of pounded or ground
+    corn and sugar, of a yellow or brownish color, much like grape-nuts. It may be eaten
+    dry, but is much more commonly mixed with water. The indian dips up a
+    <i>j&iacute;cara</i> full of clear spring water, and then, taking a handful of
+    <i>posole</i> from his pouch, kneads it up until a rather thick, light-yellow liquid
+    results, which is drunk, and is refreshing and satisfying.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image078a.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>A DAY REST; THE CARIZAL</b></p>
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image078b.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>MARIMBA PLAYING; HACIENDA DE ZAPOTE</b></p>
+<br />
+
+    <p>Almost all the <i>carreteros</i> at this camp were Juchitecos. They were great,
+    strong fellows, and almost all of them wore the old-fashioned indian breech-clout of
+    red cotton under their drawers or trousers. When they were working at their carts,
+    greasing the wheels, or making repairs, they were apt <a
+    name="page344" id="page344"/>to lay by all their clothing but this
+    simple piece of cloth, and their dark-brown bodies, finely muscled, hard and tough,
+    presented handsome pictures. The little fellows who accompanied them, up to the age
+    of twelve, usually ran about with no article of clothing save their little
+    breech-clouts and white cotton shirts. In the early afternoon, serious work began,
+    and everywhere we saw these men patching coverings, greasing wheels, readjusting
+    cargoes, feeding and watering their animals, harnessing, and making other
+    preparations for leaving. During the idle portion of the day, dice were in evidence,
+    and Eustasio was fascinated with the game. The stakes, of course, were small, but he
+    kept at it persistently until he had lost five pesos, when, with forcible words, he
+    gave up. I am sure the dice were loaded, but I am equally sure, from all I know of
+    Eustasio, that the next time he makes that journey, he will have some loaded dice
+    himself. Setting out at 3:30, we were at the head of a long line of cars, and were
+    soon making another steady zigzag to ever greater heights than those before climbed.
+    According to the official <i>itinerario</i>, the distance from Dolores to San Miguel
+    is five leagues; we had left Dolores a league behind in arriving at Carizal, and we
+    naturally assumed that four leagues would bring us to San Miguel. Eustasio, however,
+    who never under-estimated, claimed that it would take constant travelling until eight
+    in the morning to reach Los Pinos, which is still this side of San Miguel. This is a
+    fair example of the inaccuracy of figures published by the government. As I looked
+    behind at the long line of carts, some of which were empty, and able to journey at
+    good speed, the desire took possession of me to hire one, at least for a short
+    distance, in the hope of getting a little sleep. Looking over the line, to make my
+    choice, I had just selected one, and was about to broach my plan, when its driver ran
+    the vehicle into the <a name="page345"
+    id="page345"/>branches of a tree, which projected over the road, and
+    tore away his awning. The idea was unaffected by this accident, however, and picking
+    out a cart, which had a thick layer of corn-husks piled in it, promising a
+    comfortable bed, I arranged my bargain with the owner, and deserted my party,
+    betaking myself to my private car. Having no load, we pushed ahead and, stretching
+    myself at full length upon the heap of corn-husks, I was soon asleep. It was my
+    purpose to disembark at Los Pinos, but we had passed that place long before I awoke,
+    and were in sight of San Miguel when I opened my eyes. It was too early for
+    breakfast, so I concluded to ride along to Macuilapa, where my carter turned off into
+    another road. It was just eight when we arrived, and I thought of my companions as
+    probably just reaching Los Pinos. Starting from there at three in the afternoon, they
+    should overtake me at seven. So I took possession of the great country house, sitting
+    in the corridor all day long. The house is a long, large, single-storied building,
+    with heavy tiled-roof; the store-houses, sheds and other out-houses, with the adobe
+    huts belonging to the workmen, surround a somewhat regular area. The view, however,
+    in front of the house is uninterrupted, and looks off into a narrow valley, bounded
+    prettily by hills. The house has a wide brick-paved corridor. Near it was an
+    interesting ancient stone carving. The rock was coarsely crystalline, and gray, or
+    olive-gray in color. It had been battered into the bold, simple outline of a frog,
+    crouched for leaping; the head had an almost human face, with a single central tooth
+    projecting from the lower jaw. The work was in low relief, and looked as if the
+    ancient workman had taken a natural boulder, and beaten with his hammer-stone only
+    sufficiently to bring out the details. The stone measured perhaps four feet in
+    length, three feet in breadth, and two feet in thickness. It was found in the
+    mountains near, and, <a name="page346"
+    id="page346"/>from the marks upon it, seems to have been embedded in
+    the soil half way up the legs. Probably, when first made, it was placed so that the
+    feet were even with the ground surface, but the accumulation of vegetable soil since
+    has been considerable. The Hacienda of Macuilapa manufactures sugar and raises
+    indigo, quantities of the seed of which were being cleaned when I was there. The
+    owner of the place is a man of means, but the meals served were of a mean and frugal
+    kind. Everyone made dire prophecies about the time of possible arrival of my
+    companions, and the period necessary for our further journey to Tuxtla Gutierrez. I
+    had not expected my companions before seven, and after these dismal forebodings, gave
+    up that expectation. To my surprise, they appeared, in good health and spirits, at
+    five o'clock, though with exciting tales of peril and suffering. After a meal
+    together, we again mounted in the old fashion, and were on our way. The air was fresh
+    and cool, and at 9:30 the moon rose, giving perfect light. The road was high and
+    sandy, with occasional small ascents and descents. At eleven we stopped to rest, I
+    agreeing to wake them all at midnight; at one o'clock I was awakened by our
+    <i>carretero</i> raising the tongue of the wagon! We passed La Razon at three. As one
+    of the oxen, which had been somewhat lame, was now in bad condition, we all
+    dismounted, half-a-league before we reached Zapote, and walked the rest of the way.
+    The Hacienda of Zapote is really almost a town. There are two <i>fincas</i>,
+    belonging to two brothers. Their fine large houses, the out-buildings, and the
+    clusters of adobe huts for the workmen, make an imposing appearance. We stopped at
+    the first group of buildings, which stands a little lower than the other. Arriving at
+    six, we spent the whole day at this place; the meals at the great house were
+    excellent and cheap. In the afternoon we heard marimba-playing; the instrument<a name="page347" id="page347"/> was called <i>la
+    golondrina</i> and cost the owner forty-three pesos. The players were carefully
+    trained, being four brothers. The youngest of them was not more than fourteen years
+    old, but he put much expression and spirit into his playing. It was the first time
+    that any of the party, but myself, had heard this instrument, and all were delighted
+    at its brilliant, quick, and pleasing music. We left at 3:45 in the afternoon, but
+    our ailing animal was worse than ever, and Eustasio ran ahead, trying to secure
+    others at different ranches. He had had no success when, after a rough ride of
+    several hours, we drew up at Jiquipilas, where we waited until the morning. We
+    planned to secure new animals, to leave at dawn, and to reach Tuxtla after a
+    twenty-four hour ride. We laid down and slept, waking at five, but finding no sign of
+    animals. We breakfasted at seven, and a little later the new oxen appeared. There
+    were two yokes of rather light animals. Leaving our sick beast, and driving the other
+    three along with us, the new animals were put to the loads, and at eight o'clock we
+    started. I failed to recognize Rancho Disenga&ntilde;o, but having passed it, we
+    found ourselves at the bottom of the much-dreaded, last important climb of the
+    journey. The little team dragging the passenger cart was inefficient and unruly;
+    tiring of them, I dismounted and went ahead on foot. For a time I drove the unyoked
+    cattle, but a stubborn one wandering into the brush, I gave up the job, and left poor
+    Louis, who had just overtaken me, to chase him. He had hard work, through tangled
+    brush, here and there, up and down, until at last the animal was once more upon the
+    road. The boy was hot, tired, and loaded with <i>pinolillos</i>. These insects had
+    been in evidence for a long time back. They are exceedingly small ticks, which fix
+    their claws firmly in the flesh, and cause intolerable itching. Keeping in the road,
+    the traveller is little likely to be troubled by them; but walk<a name="page348" id="page348"/>ing through grass, or
+    among leafy plants, is dangerous. Having climbed a portion of our great ascent, we
+    found ourselves at Agua Bendita. It was not as beautiful as on the occasion of my
+    other visit; the projecting ledge of rock had little water dripping, and in the round
+    catch-basins, which formerly were filled with fresh, clear water, there was scarcely
+    any; on account of the unusual dryness, the ferns were wilted, and there was little
+    of that beauty and freshness which so delighted me before. Eustasio said that he had
+    never seen the spot so dry in all his many journeys. Nor were there orchids blooming
+    on the great tree near; nor any of the little toucans which had been so attractive in
+    1896. As we stood, seeking for these well-remembered things, we heard curious cries
+    rising from the valley. At first, I thought it was indians wailing for the dead;
+    then, that it was a band of pilgrims singing. But it turned out to be a company of
+    cowboys, bringing cattle up for shipment to Tabasco. Some rode ahead, and, with loud
+    but not unmusical cries, invited and urged the animals and their drivers to follow.
+    The beasts were divided into three bands, thirty or forty in a band, each of which
+    had its mounted drivers. The animals were lively, and we were warned that they were
+    <i>muy bravo</i>. Manuel had taken the task of driving our loose cattle, and was
+    fearful that he would be overtaken, asserting that the cowboys had said that he must
+    keep on, as they could not pass him with their animals. When he came up to where we
+    were, we put a quick end to his folly, driving our three oxen to the outer edge of
+    the road, where Louis and he stood guard over them, while I crept up on the cliff to
+    avoid scaring the animals that were coming. It took much driving, urging, and coaxing
+    on the part of the cowboys to get the first two or three to pass us, but after they
+    had led the way, the others followed with a rush.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image079a.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>AGUA BENDITA</b></p>
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image079b.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>MOVING THE GREAT STONE; AGUA BENDITA</b></p>
+<br />
+
+    <a name="page349" id="page349"/>
+
+    <p>Presently our passenger-cart came along, with both teams of oxen hitched to it;
+    the new animals had proved too light to drag their proper loads, so the freight-cart
+    had been left behind, and the full force employed in dragging the first cart up the
+    hill. Just beyond this spot, we found a gang of indians, under a superintendent,
+    prying off an immense rock mass that had fallen from the cliff above onto the road,
+    with the intention of dumping it over the wall into the abyss. It would have been a
+    sight to have seen it plunge, but we had no time to wait, so simply stopped a few
+    minutes to see the method of moving the immense mass with pole pries. Our cart had
+    gone ahead, so we finished the ascent on foot, and having gained the summit, walked a
+    short distance on the high plateau to Petapa, where the cart and <i>carretero</i>,
+    Manuel and Ramon, were waiting. Before we arrived, we met our men going back with the
+    four oxen for the freight-cart. We had supper at the ranch, and waited, until at six
+    o'clock everything was ready. Here we sent back the two yokes of animals which we had
+    brought from Jiquipilas, and secured a fine, strong beast to make up our number, and
+    started. We did not stop to grease the wheels, for lack of time. It was dark, and the
+    first part of the journey was uncertain and difficult; coming out on to the Llano
+    Grande, we found things easy, though here and there were stony places, where we
+    jolted fearfully. At 10:30, we had passed La Cienega, and our ungreased wheels were
+    not only an annoyance, but, Eustasio suggested, a source of danger, as they might
+    take fire. So, at 11:30, we stopped to grease them. As the axles and wheels were then
+    too hot for grease to be safely applied, we lay down while they should cool. Probably
+    in less than five minutes, we were all asleep, and no one moved until, waking with a
+    start and looking at my watch, I found it two in the morning. We hastily applied
+    grease, without <a name="page350" id="page350"/>
+    removing the wheels, and hurried onward, passing Sabino Perez, Yerba Santa, and
+    Sabinal. Here, the errors in our <i>itinerario</i>, and in our driver's guessing at
+    distances, were curiously emphasized. We had a rather heavy descent, for some
+    distance, over a limestone hill called Santo Domingo. Nowhere do I know of any road
+    which, under the best of circumstances, seems as long as the last stretch before
+    Tuxtla Gutierrez. This we had noticed on our earlier journey, when we were mounted on
+    horseback. Present conditions were not likely to diminish the impression. At last, at
+    11:30 in the morning of March 12, we reached the capital city of the State of
+    Chiapas, and were taken by our <i>carretero</i> to the little old Hotel Mexico, kept
+    by Paco, where we met a hearty welcome and, for several days, made up for the
+    hardships of our journey in the way of eating.</p>
+    <hr style="width: 65%;" />
+    <h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXIV" id="CHAPTER_XXIV"></a>CHAPTER XXIV</h2>
+    <a name="page351" id="page351"/>
+    <h2>AT TUXTLA GUTIERREZ</h2>
+    <h3>(1901)</h3>
+    <p>We knew that Governor Pimentel was not at home, having met him in Coalzacoalcos,
+    where we had presented our official letters, and had received from him a
+    communication to his Lieutenant-Governor, Lopez. Having spent the afternoon in
+    settling and cleaning, I called in the evening upon Governor Lopez and explained my
+    needs. After chatting a little time together, he inquired whether I had not made the
+    steamboat journey from Coalzacoalcos to Vera Cruz in March, 1896, and, upon my
+    answering in the affirmative, told me that we had been fellow-travellers on that
+    occasion. He promised that there should be no delay, and made an appointment with me
+    for the morning. I then called on Don Conrado Palacios, who lived directly opposite
+    our little tavern, and who claimed that he recognized me the moment I dismounted from
+    our cart this morning. He is still photographer, but for three years of the time
+    since last we met has been living in the State of Vera Cruz, and but lately returned
+    to Tuxtla. In the morning, Governor Lopez supplied the letters for my further
+    journey, and summoned the <i>jefe politico</i> and the <i>presidente</i> of the city
+    and gave them personal orders that they were to assist, in every way, my work at
+    Tuxtla, among the Zoques. The <i>jefe</i> himself took charge of my arrangements, put
+    his office at my disposition for a workshop, and the work began at once. Contrary to
+    my usual experience, we had less difficulty in securing <a
+    name="page352" id="page352"/>female subjects here than male. The male
+    indians of Tuxtla are, in large part, employed in contract labor on <i>fincas</i> at
+    a distance from the town. According to their contract, they are not subject to the
+    order of local authorities, and may not be summoned without permission of their
+    employers, or a pecuniary settlement with them. The first day, more than half the
+    women were measured, and the second day, the rest. As is well known the women of
+    Tehuantepec are famous for their beauty. It is not so well known that rivalry exists
+    between them and the women of Tuxtla in this matter. This rivalry had been called to
+    our attention on our preceding visit, and we found that it had in no wise abated.
+    Personally, we saw no comparison between the two sets of women, the Tehuantepecanas
+    being far superior. Eustasio, however, ungallantly and unpatriotically declared that
+    he thought the women of Tuxtla the handsomer; however, we suspect that Eustasio would
+    find the women of any town he might be in, the champions in beauty for the time
+    being. Their dress is picturesque. The <i>enagua</i> is made of two strips of dark
+    blue cloth, sewed together, side by side, with a fancy stitching of colored silks.
+    The free borders are also decorated with similar stitching, and the ends of the
+    strip, which is usually more than two yards in length, sewn together with similarly
+    decorative needlework. In fastening this garment about the body, no belt is used. The
+    open bag is gathered in about the waist, the surplus is folded into pleats in front
+    and the overlap, at the upper edge, is so tucked in as to hold the garment tightly in
+    place, and at the same time form a pouch, or pocket, in which small articles are
+    carried. The little <i>huip&iacute;l</i>, worn upon the upper body, is of thin, white
+    cotton cloth, native-woven, but a neat and pretty stuff; there are no sleeves, and
+    the neck-opening and arm-slits are bordered with pleated strips of cotton, worked
+    with black embroidery. A larger<a name="page353"
+    id="page353"/> <i>huip&iacute;l</i> is regularly carried, but we never
+    saw it in use; practically, it never is worn. If put in place, it would form a
+    garment for the body, with the neck-opening and sleeves bordered with lace, and the
+    lower edge reaching to the knees. The woman carries this garment with her, folding it
+    into a sort of pad, which she places on her head, letting it hang down upon the back
+    and shoulders. Upon this cushion, the woman carries a great bowl, made from the rind
+    of a sort of squash or pumpkin, in which she brings her stuff to market. These
+    vessels are a specialty of the neighborhood, being made at Chiapa; they are richly
+    decorated with a lacquer finish, of bright color. In carrying a baby, the child is
+    placed against one side of the body, with its little legs astride, one in front and
+    one behind, and then lashed in place by a strip of cloth, which is knotted over the
+    woman's opposite shoulder. Almost every Zoque woman is asymmetrical, from this mode
+    of carrying babies, one shoulder being much higher than the other. Among the subjects
+    measured, was a woman notable in several ways. She was the fattest indian woman we
+    had ever seen; she was the richest of her kind, and not only were her garments
+    beautiful in work and decoration, but she was gorgeous with necklaces, bristling with
+    gold coins and crosses; more than this, she was a capital case of purple
+    <i>pinta</i>. The disease is common among the indians of the town, and, while both
+    the red and white forms are found, purple seems to be the common type. Sometimes the
+    face looks as if powder-burned, the purple blotch appearing as if in scattered
+    specks; at other times, the purple spots are continuous, and the skin seems raised
+    and pitted.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image080a.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>ZOQUE MODE OF CARRYING BABIES; TUXTLA
+GUTIERREZ</b></p>
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image080b.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>FAT, RICH, AND PIXTA; TUXTLA
+GUTIERREZ</b></p>
+<br />
+
+
+
+    <p>It appears that the adjusting of family quarrels and disputes between friends are
+    among the duties of the <i>jefe</i>. In the office that day, a quarrel was settled
+    involving two young men related by blood and by comradeship; a <a name="page354" id="page354"/>woman and a man of
+    middle age were also interested; the quarrel had been a serious one, involving
+    assaults, ambushes, and shootings. The <i>jefe</i> first summoned each of the four
+    persons singly, going over the whole matter with each one; the more intelligent of
+    the two combatants was first to be reasoned with; then the woman was called in and he
+    and she were left together in the office. For a long time, they would not even speak
+    to each other. Finding this condition, the <i>jefe</i> reasoned with them, and warned
+    them that they must come to some conclusion, after which he left them to themselves
+    again. At first they would not speak, but finally held a conversation, and came to an
+    understanding; the old man was then called in and made to talk the matter over with
+    the two, who had already been in conference. Lastly, the more belligerent youth was
+    summoned, the <i>jefe</i> remaining in the room with the whole party. At first he
+    would not speak, but finally his pride and anger gave way, and he shook hands with
+    his cousin, and the whole party left, after promising the <i>jefe</i> that the past
+    should be forgotten.</p>
+    <p>The first afternoon that we were working, a curious couple came to the
+    <i>jefe's</i> office. The woman was not unattractive, though rather bold and hard in
+    bearing. She was dark, pretentiously made-up, and rather elegantly dressed. The
+    gentleman was a quiet, handsome fellow, dressed in sober black. When they sailed in,
+    I supposed they were the <i>jefe's</i> personal friends. Sitting down, they showed
+    interest in my work, and the lady in a rather strident voice, but with much
+    composure, addressed us in English. Her knowledge of our language, however, proved to
+    be extremely limited, being confined to such expressions as "How are you, sir?" "I am
+    very well," "Yes, sir," "No, sir," and "I know New York." She was a mystery to the
+    town, where she was commonly called "the Turkish lady."</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image081a.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>ZOQUE WOMEN; TUXTLA GUTIERREZ</b></p>
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image081b.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>THE INDIAN ALCALDES; TUXTLA GUTIERREZ</b></p>
+
+
+    <a name="page355" id="page355"/> <br />
+
+
+    <p>This nickname, her limited knowledge of English, and her boasted acquaintance with
+    New York, aroused the question, in my mind, whether she might not have been an
+    oriental dancer. She, herself, told us that she was born in South America, and
+    referred to Caracas, as if it were a place with which she was familiar. The
+    <i>jefe</i> was extremely polite in his dealings with these people, and, as soon as
+    they were seated, rang his bell for glasses, and we all drank the lady's health in
+    cognac. The fact was, that these two persons were prisoners; they had come here
+    within a few days, and had the city for a prison; as they had made no effort to leave
+    the town, their movements were not interfered with, but if they had attempted to step
+    outside the city limits, they would have been shot without a word of warning. The
+    <i>jefe</i> himself did not know who they were, nor what crime they had committed;
+    nor did he know how long they would remain in his custody; they had come a weary
+    journey, as he put it, "along the Cordillera;" they had been passed from hand to
+    hand, from one <i>jefe</i> to another; when the order came, he was to start them on
+    their journey to the <i>jefe</i> of the next district. Of the many stories told
+    regarding them, a few will serve as samples. She was said to be the wife of a wealthy
+    merchant of Campeche, from whom she had eloped with her companion, carrying away
+    $150,000. According to another view, they were connected with an important band of
+    forgers and robbers, who had been carrying on extensive operations. The most minutely
+    detailed story, however, was that she had been the mistress and favorite of Francisco
+    Canton, Governor of the State of Yucatan; that, pleased with a younger and handsomer
+    man, she had stolen $7,000 from His Excellency, and attempted an elopement; that,
+    captured, they were being sent as prisoners, nominally to Mexico. Whether any of
+    these stories had a basis of fact, we cannot say, but from remarks <a name="page356" id="page356"/>the prisoners
+    themselves made to us, we feel sure that the centre of their trouble was
+    M&eacute;rida, and that, in some way, they had offended the pompous governor. At all
+    events, it is likely that, long before these words are written, both have met their
+    death upon the road. It is a common thing for prisoners, passing along the
+    Cordillera, to be shot "while attempting to escape from their guard."</p>
+    <p>The <i>jefe politico</i> of this district is a man of education, and professional
+    ability; he is a physician, trained in the City of Mexico; he is ingenious in
+    mechanics, and has devised a number of instruments and inventions of a scientific
+    kind. He had been but a short time in this district, having come from Tonala, where
+    he has a <i>finca</i>. He entertained us at his house, while we were there, and
+    showed us every assistance. It is plain, however, that he found us a white elephant
+    upon his hands. Not that his willingness was lacking, but where should he find one
+    hundred indian men? We pestered him almost to death for subjects, when at last his
+    <i>secretario</i> suggested the district jail. This was a veritable inspiration.
+    There they were sure we would have no difficulty in finding the remainder of our
+    hundred. To the jail we went, but out of seventy-five prisoners fully half were
+    Tzotzils from Chamula and not Zoques. More than half of the remainder were not
+    indian, but <i>mestizos</i>. In fact, out of the total number, only a baker's dozen
+    served our purpose. When we again presented ourselves, the following morning, for
+    subjects, the poor man was in genuine desperation. But again his assistant made a
+    shrewd suggestion. Yesterday we were at the jail; to-day we should go to the
+    <i>cuartel</i>, and measure the soldiers. There were two hundred there, and this
+    would more than see us through. The <i>jefe</i> himself accompanied us to the
+    barracks and introduced us to the colonel, leaving orders that we should be supplied
+    with every aid, and went off happy, in the sense <a
+    name="page357" id="page357"/>of a bad job well done. But out of the
+    two hundred soldiers in the barracks, just ten turned out to be Zoques of pure blood.
+    And long before the day was over, we were again clamoring at the <i>jefe's</i> house
+    for thirty-six more subjects. To tell the truth, we doubted his ability to secure
+    them, and, in order to lose no time, started our goods and plaster by <i>carreta</i>
+    for San Cristobal. Still, while it was plain that he did not know where to look for
+    help, the good man assured us that we should have our thirty-six subjects the next
+    morning. Meantime, he sent officials with us to visit certain indian houses which we
+    desired to examine, and arranged that we should see a certain characteristic indian
+    dance at his house, at four o'clock that afternoon.</p>
+    <p>Tuxtla Gutierrez is a capital city. It is also a busy commercial centre. Of
+    course, the population is for the most part <i>mestizo</i>, and not indian. We had
+    been surprised at finding so many indians in the city as there were. We were yet more
+    surprised to find to what extent the houses of the city, though admirably built, were
+    truly indian in style, presenting many points of interest. The walls of the
+    "god-house" were heavy and substantial, smoothly daubed with mud, neatly plastered
+    and often adorned with colored decorations. The "cook-house," slighter and less
+    well-built, was made of poles daubed with mud, and rough with heavy thatching. The
+    granary was elevated above the ground, and sheltered with its own neat thatching.</p>
+    <p>In the afternoon, at four o'clock, we betook ourselves to the <i>jefe's</i> house
+    to see the dance. At Tuxtla, there are two town governments, that of the
+    <i>mestizos</i> and that of the indians. The indian officials&mdash;"<i>alcaldes
+    indios</i>"&mdash;are recognizable by their dress, which is a survival of the ancient
+    indian dress of the district. Their <i>camisa</i>, broad hat, and leather breeches,
+    are characteristic. Around the head, under the hat, they wear a red cloth, and <a name="page358" id="page358"/>those who have served
+    as indian <i>alcaldes</i> continue to wear this head-cloth after their official
+    service ends. These indian officials had been commissioned to bring together the
+    dancers, and make all necessary arrangements. The colonel, the prisoners of state,
+    and one or two other guests were present. The leader of the dance was gaily dressed,
+    in a pair of wide drawers with lace about the legs below the knee, a pair of
+    overdrawers made of bright-colored handkerchiefs, and a helmet or cap of bright-red
+    stuff from which rose a crest of macaw feathers, tipped with tufts of cotton. On his
+    back, he bore a kind of pouch, the upper edge of which was bordered with a line of
+    macaw feathers. In his hand, he carried a wooden war-axe. A pretty little girl,
+    dressed in a Guatemaltec <i>enagua</i>, wore a fancy head-dress, and, in her hand,
+    bore a <i>j&iacute;cara</i>, which was filled with pink carnival flowers. These two
+    dancers faced each other and in dancing moved slowly back and forth, and from one
+    foot to the other; the only other dancers were two men, one of whom was dressed as,
+    and took the part of a woman. This couple danced in much the same way, but with
+    greater freedom than the chief persons, and at times circled around them. The music
+    consisted of a violin and native <i>pito</i> or pipe, and a drum of the
+    <i>huehuetl</i> type,&mdash;cut from a single cylindrical block, but with skin
+    stretched over both ends instead of one.</p>
+    <p>I was surprised the following morning when thirty-six subjects were produced; we
+    knew that, for the moment, the building operations of the government palace were
+    discontinued, and we suspected that all the work done by indians in Tuxtla was
+    likewise temporarily ceased. When the last one had passed under the instruments, the
+    <i>jefe</i> heaved a sigh, rang his bell for glasses, and the event was celebrated by
+    a final draught of cognac.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image082a.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>ZOQUE DANCERS; TUXTLA GUTIERREZ</b></p>
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image082b.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>TZENDALS FROM TENEJAPA; COLD HANDS</b></p>
+<br />
+
+    <p>The man with whom we had expected to arrange for <a
+    name="page359" id="page359"/>animals had promised to come to the
+    hotel at seven. He came not then, nor at half-past, nor at eight, nor at nine. When
+    we sent an inquiry, he made the cool reply, that it was now too late to arrange
+    matters; that he would see us at eight the following morning. Furious at his failure,
+    we ourselves went with the boy from the hotel at ten o'clock to his house, but could
+    not get him even to open the door. "To-morrow! To-morrow!" was his cry. Desperate, we
+    went, although it was now almost midnight, to another <i>arriero</i>, who, after some
+    dickering, agreed to leave at eight the following morning, charging a price something
+    more than fifty per cent above the usual rate. Of course he was behindhand, but we
+    actually set out at nine.</p>
+    <hr style="width: 65%;" />
+    <h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXV" id="CHAPTER_XXV"></a>CHAPTER XXV</h2>
+    <a name="page360" id="page360"/>
+    <h2>TZOTZILS AND TZENDALS</h2>
+    <h3>(1901)</h3>
+    <p>We started out over the hot and dusty road, passing here and there through cuts of
+    the white earth, which is used by the women of Chiapa in their lacquer-work. We soon
+    reached the river, and, leaving our animals behind, to cool before swimming them
+    across, embarked with a dozen other passengers, and all our baggage, in one of the
+    great canoes, which we by no means filled. Landing on the other side, with an hour to
+    wait, we walked down stream, and took a fine bath in the fresh cold, clear, deep
+    water. Just below where we were bathing, some indians had exploded a dynamite
+    cartridge, killing a quantity of fish, and the surface was immediately spotted with
+    their white, upturned bellies. A canoe-load of four men put out to gather the fish,
+    as soon as the shot was fired. Just as they reached the spot, and were leaning over
+    the boat to catch them, the canoe overturned, and all the men were floundering in the
+    water, up to their necks, and the canoe was rapidly drifting down the stream. The
+    fish they get here are quite large, and seem to be a kind of cat-fish. Strolling back
+    to our landing-place, we were interested in the lively scenes there being enacted.
+    Under little arbors of leafy boughs, women were washing clothing; crowds of children,
+    of both sexes, were playing on the sand or splashing in the water; half-a-dozen great
+    canoes were dragged up on the bank, and amid these a group of little brown fellows,
+    from ten to fourteen years of age, were swimming; here<a
+    name="page361" id="page361"/> and there, a man or woman squatted in
+    the shallow water, dipped water over their bare bodies with <i>j&iacute;caras</i>.
+    Now and then the great ferry-boat, loaded with passengers and with animals swimming
+    alongside, made its crossing. Presently our seven animals were swum across, and,
+    after a moment's drying, were repacked and saddled, and we were ready for our forward
+    movement.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image083a.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>ZOQUE COMPADRES GREETING; TUXTLA GUTIERREZ</b></p>
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image083b.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>OUR FERRY-BOAT; CHIAPA</b></p>
+<br />
+
+    <p>Chiapa was formerly the great town of the Chiapanecs, an Indian tribe to whom
+    tradition assigns past splendor, but who, to-day, are represented in three villages,
+    Chiapa, Suchiapa, and Acala. They are much mixed with Spanish blood, and have largely
+    forgotten their ancient language. It is, however, from them, that the modern state,
+    Chiapas, received its name. Chiapa, itself, is a city of some size, situated on a
+    terrace a little way from the river, with a ridge of hills rising behind it. The
+    <i>plaza</i> is large, and in it stands a market-building. Near by is a picturesque
+    old gothic fountain, built of brick. Market was almost over, but we were interested
+    in seeing the quantities of pineapples and cacao beans there offered. To lose no time
+    waiting for dinner, we bought bread and one or two large pineapples, which we ate
+    under the shade of the trees in the <i>plaza</i>. The pineapples were delicious,
+    being tender and exceedingly sweet; our <i>arriero</i> refused to eat any of them,
+    asserting that they were barely fit to eat, lacking sweetness, and being prickly to
+    the taste. The pineapples of Simojovel were to his liking; they are sugar-sweet,
+    leaving no prickly sensation, and anyone can eat three whole ones at a sitting. After
+    luncheon, we looked about for examples of lacquer-work. In one house, we found some
+    small objects and wooden trays of indifferent workmanship. An old crone, badly
+    affected with <i>pinto</i>, the mother of the young woman artist, showed us the
+    wares. With her was the older sister of the lady-worker, who, after we had bought two
+    of the <a name="page362" id="page362"/>trays,
+    asked whence we came. Upon our telling her that Manuel was a native of Cordoba, and
+    that I had come from the United States, without a word of warning she raised her
+    hands, turned her eyes upward, and gave vent to a torrent of shrill, impassioned,
+    apostrophe to her absent, artistic sister: "<i>A dios, hermana mia</i>, Anastasia
+    Torres, to think that your art-products should penetrate to those distant lands, to
+    those remote portions of the world, to be the wonder and admiration of foreign eyes.
+    <i>A dios, hermana mia</i>, Anastasia Torres!" This she repeated several times, in a
+    voice high enough to be heard a block or two away. Leaving her to continue her
+    exclamations of joy and admiration over the fate of her sister's workmanship, we
+    returned to the <i>plaza</i>, where, in a house near by, we found a considerable
+    stock of better work, consisting of decorated bowls, cups, toy <i>j&iacute;caras</i>,
+    gourd-rattles, etc. This brilliant work, characteristic of the town, is carried
+    hundreds of miles into the States of Oaxaca, Tabasco, Vera Cruz, and into the
+    Republic of Guatemala. At two o'clock we hurried from the town in the midst of
+    terrific heat. As we rode out, over the dry and sandy road, we were impressed by the
+    display of death; not only was there one cemetery, with its whitened walls and
+    monuments, but at least three other burial places capped the little hillocks at the
+    border of the town. One, particularly attracted attention, as it resembled an ancient
+    terraced pyramid, with a flight of steps up one side.</p>
+    <p>From the foothills, we struck up the flank of the great mountain mass itself.
+    Mounting higher and higher, a great panorama presented itself behind and below us,
+    including the Chiapa valley, with the hills beyond it. It was, however, merely
+    extensive, and not particularly beautiful or picturesque. As we followed the slope
+    towards the crest, into the narrowing valley, the scene became bolder, until we were
+    at <a name="page363" id="page363"/>the very
+    edge of a mighty chasm, which yawned sheer at our side. Following it, we saw the
+    gorge suddenly shallow hundreds of feet by a vast precipice of limestone rock rising
+    from its bottom. Having passed this, we journeyed on up the ca&ntilde;on, lessened in
+    grandeur, but still presenting pretty bits of scenery. Up to this point, limestone
+    had prevailed, but from here on, we passed over various formations&mdash;heavy beds
+    of sand or clay, lying upon conglomerates and shales. The road wound astonishingly,
+    and at one point, coming out upon a hog's-back ridge, we found that we had actually
+    made a loop, and stood directly above where we had been some time before. Near
+    sunset, we reached the summit, and looked down upon the little town of Ixtapa, upon a
+    high <i>llano</i> below, and seeming to be a half-hour's ride distant. Descending on
+    to the <i>llano</i>, we found it intersected by deep and narrow gorges; following
+    along the level, narrow ridge, surrounded by ravines on every side, except the one
+    from which we had approached, we presently descended, along its flank, the bank of
+    the deepest of these <i>barrancas</i>. The sun had set long before we reached the
+    bottom, and through the darkness, we had to climb up over the steep dugway in the
+    sandy clay to the village, which we reached at seven. The little room supplied us for
+    a sleeping-place was clean and neat, the floor was strewn with fresh and fragrant
+    pine-needles, and the wooden beds were supplied with <i>petates</i>. Leaving before
+    eight, the following morning, we travelled through a beautiful ca&ntilde;on, with an
+    abundant stream of whitish-blue water, tumbling in fine cascades among the rocks, and
+    dashing now and then into deep pools of inky blackness. Having passed through it, our
+    bridle-trail plunged abruptly downward. From it, we looked upon a neighboring slope,
+    cut at three different levels, one above the other, for the cart-road. Passing next
+    through a small ca&ntilde;on of little beauty, but where <a
+    name="page364" id="page364"/>the air was heavy with an odor like
+    vanilla, coming from sheets of pale-purple or violet flowers, on trees of eight or
+    ten feet in height, we reached San Sebastian, where we found our <i>carretero</i>,
+    whom we supposed to have reached San Cristobal the day before. Rating him soundly,
+    and threatening dire consequences from his delay, we resumed our journey. We were
+    also worried over our <i>mozo</i>, who started from Chiapa at noon, the day before,
+    with our photographic instruments, and whom we had not seen since, although there
+    were several places where we would gladly have taken views. From here, for a long
+    distance, the road was a hard, steep climb, over limestone in great
+    variety&mdash;solid limestone, tufaceous stuff, concretionary coatings, satin spar,
+    and calcite crystals. Having passed a small pueblo, or large <i>finca</i>, lying in a
+    little plain below us, we looked down upon Zinacantan. The descent was quickly made,
+    and passing through the village, without stopping, we made a long, slow, ascent
+    before catching sight of our destination, San Cristobal. It made a fine appearance,
+    lying on a little terrace at the base of hills, at the very end of the valley. Its
+    churches and public buildings are so situated as to make the most impression; on
+    account of its length and narrowness, the town appears much larger than it really is.
+    We entered at one end, and then, practically, paralleled our trail through it to the
+    centre, where we stopped at the Hotel Progreso, at 3:30 in the afternoon. We went to
+    the palace, and made arrangements so promptly that we could have begun work
+    immediately, if the <i>carretero</i> and <i>mozo</i> had not been behind. As it was,
+    we waited until next day, and were warned by the <i>secretario</i> at the
+    <i>jefatura</i> that there would not be enough light for work before nine o'clock. In
+    the evening, we called on Padre Sanchez, well known for his study of the native
+    languages, and the works he had written regarding them. He is a large man,
+    well-built, of<a name="page365" id="page365"/>
+    attractive appearance, and of genial manner. He has been <i>cura</i> in various
+    indian towns among the Chamulas, and he loves the indians, and is regarded as a
+    friend by them. We were prepared for a cold night, and had it, though no heavy frost
+    formed, as had done the night before. In one day's journey, the traveller finds
+    towns, in this neighborhood, with totally different climates. Here woolen garments
+    are necessary, and in towns like Chamula and Cancuc the indians find the heaviest
+    ones comfortable. Our rating of the <i>carretero</i> had an effect both prompt and
+    dire; when we left him, he hastened to hire carriers to bring in the more important
+    part of our load; these, he insisted, should travel all night, and at eight o'clock
+    we found them at the hotel. In the darkness they had stumbled, and our loads had
+    fallen. Whole boxes of unused plates were wrecked, and, still worse, many of our
+    choicest negatives were broken. At nine o'clock the missing <i>mozo</i> appeared with
+    the instruments; it is customary for our carrier to keep up with the company, as we
+    have frequent need of taking views upon the journey; this was almost the only
+    instance, in the hundreds of leagues that we have travelled on horseback, over
+    mountain roads, where our carrier had failed to keep alongside of the animals, or
+    make the same time in journeying that we mounted travellers did.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image084a.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>THE JAIL; SAN CRISTOBAL</b></p>
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image084b.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>TZOTZIL MUSICIANS IN SAN CRISTOBAL JAIL</b></p>
+<br />
+
+    <p>Though there had been an early mist, there was no lack of sunshine, even before
+    seven. Still, we did not go to the palace until nine o'clock, the hour set. San
+    Cristobal was formerly the capital of the state, and its public buildings are more
+    pretentious than usual in <i>cabeceras</i>. The place in which we did our work was a
+    building of two stories, filling one side of the plaza. We worked in the broad
+    corridor of the second story, outside of the <i>secretario's</i> office, from which
+    our subjects, mostly indians who had come to pay school-taxes, were sent to us for
+    measurement. The market-<a name="page366"
+    id="page366"/>place of San Cristobal is characteristically indian.
+    Not only do the two chief tribes which frequent it&mdash;Tzotzils and
+    Tzendals&mdash;differ in dress, but even the different villages of each wear
+    characteristic garments. The Tzotzil of Chamula differs from his brother of Huixtan
+    and San Bartolome; the Tzendal women of Tenejapa, Cancuc and San Andres may be
+    quickly recognized by difference in dress.</p>
+    <p>Most interesting are the Tzotzils of Chamula. Though looked upon by the
+    <i>mestizos</i> of San Cristobal as mere brutes and savages, they are notably
+    industrious. They weave heavy, woolen blankets and <i>chamaras</i>; they are skilled
+    carpenters, making plain furniture of every kind; they are musicians, and manufacture
+    quantities of harps, guitars, and violins; they braid straw, and make hats of palm;
+    they are excellent leather-dressers, and give a black stain and polish to heavy
+    leather, which is unequalled by the work of their white neighbors. Men wear lower
+    garments of cotton, and heavy black woolen over-garments, which are gathered at the
+    waist with woolen girdles. They wear broad-brimmed, low-crowned hats, of their own
+    braiding, which they adorn with long, streaming, red and green ribbons. Their sandals
+    are supplied with heel-guards of black leather, the height of which indicates the
+    wealth or consequence of the wearer. These indians of Chamula have a love of liberty
+    and desire for independence. The most serious outbreak of recent times was theirs in
+    1868, when, under the influence of the young woman, Checheb, they attempted to
+    restore the native government, the indian life, and the old-time religion. Temples
+    were erected to the ancient gods, whose inspired priestess the young woman claimed to
+    be; but three hundred years of Christianity had accustomed them to the idea of a
+    Christ crucified; an indian Christ was necessary, not one from the hated in<a name="page367" id="page367"/>vading race;
+    accordingly, a little indian lad, the nephew of the priestess, was crucified, to
+    become a saviour for their race. Their plans involved the killing of every white and
+    <i>mestizo</i> in all the country; in reality, more than one hundred men, women, and
+    children, in the <i>fincas</i> and little towns, were killed; San Cristobal, then the
+    capital city, suffered a veritable panic, and it took the entire force of the whole
+    state to restore order.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image085a.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>TZOTZILS; HUIXTAN</b></p>
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image085b.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>TZOTZIL WOMAN; CHAMULA</b></p>
+<br />
+
+    <p>The Tzendals of Tenejapa are picturesque in the extreme. Their dark skin, their
+    long black hair, completely covering and concealing the ears, their coarse features,
+    and the black and white striped <i>chamaras</i> of wool&mdash;which they buy from the
+    weavers of Chamula&mdash;form a striking combination. They do but little weaving,
+    their chief industry being the raising and selling of fruits. Most of the men carry a
+    little sack, netted from strong fibre, slung at one side. Among other trifling
+    possessions in it, is generally a little gourd filled with a green powder, which they
+    call <i>mai</i>, or <i>pelico</i>. It consists chiefly of tobacco, with a mixture of
+    lime and chili, and is chewed, no doubt, for stimulating properties&mdash;to remove
+    the weariness of the road, and "to strengthen the teeth," as some say.</p>
+    <p>When we had exhausted the stock of those who came to pay their taxes, it was
+    suggested that we would find good subjects in the jail. This occupied what was once a
+    fine old convent, built around a large open court, and connected with the church,
+    which, judging from its elaborately carved fa&ccedil;ade, must have been beautiful.
+    On presenting our credentials to the officials, an order was given, and all the
+    pure-blood indians, one hundred at least, were lined up before us for inspection.
+    There were Tzotzils from Chamula, and Tzendals from Tenejapa, and among them many
+    excellent faces, showing the pure types, finely developed. Having made our
+    inspection, and indicated <a name="page368"
+    id="page368"/>those whom we should use, we looked about the prison.
+    The prisoners were housed in the old rooms of the monastery, each of which was large
+    enough for six or eight persons. In these rooms, each prisoner had his personal
+    possessions&mdash;good clothing, tools, cherished articles, instruments of music.
+    Those who cared to do so, were permitted to work at such things as they could do, and
+    the product of their labor was sold for their benefit. Some braided palm into long
+    strips, to make up into hats; others plaited straw into elaborate, decorative cords
+    or bands for hats; some wove <i>pita</i> into pouches; some dressed leather. Almost
+    all were busily employed. Freedom of conversation and visiting was permitted, and
+    there was no particular hardship in the matter of imprisonment, except the inability
+    to go outside. We were impressed with the fact that, in appearance and manner, few,
+    if any, of these indian prisoners, particularly the Chamulas, showed any signs of
+    criminal tendencies. In fact, they were as clean, as frank, as docile, as
+    intelligent, as any persons we might find in Mexico. A little curious to know the
+    charges on which they had been committed, we inquired, and discovered that some had
+    fifteen or twenty points against them, among which were such trifling charges as
+    murder, manslaughter, arson, rape, and highway robbery. We thought best not to
+    inquire too closely, but it is doubtful, whether any of the subjects here
+    incarcerated under these long and dreadful lists of charges, are guilty of anything
+    except insurrection&mdash;a final struggle for freedom.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image086a.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>OSITION OF REST; TZENDALS, TENEJAPA</b></p>
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image086b.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>TZOTZILS FROM HUIXTAN</b></p>
+<br />
+
+
+    <p>There were various signs of the approach of Holy Week, and the landlady at our
+    hotel, and her various helpers, were busy manufacturing incense for that occasion.
+    This was made in sticks, as thick as the thumb, and six or eight inches in length, of
+    a black color. Besides copal, leaves and other materials from various kinds of
+    odorous plants were em<a name="page369"
+    id="page369"/>ployed in its fabrication; the incense thus made is
+    really fragrant, and it would be interesting to know whether it is, in part at least,
+    of indian origin. In three days we had completed our examination of the men, but not
+    a woman had been produced for examination. On the fourth day, we reiterated our
+    demands to the authorities, and Don Murcio, the janitor or messenger, who had been
+    put subject to our order, was almost frantic. He declared that to secure the women we
+    needed would tax every power of the government; that they refused to come; that his
+    mere appearance in the market caused a scattering. Finally, we told him, that if he
+    would provide twenty-five Chamula women, we would get the Tzendals in their villages,
+    as we passed through them. Encouraged, by having one-half of our demand abated, he
+    made another visit to the market. Soon we heard excited voices, and a moment later
+    Don Murcio came rushing up the stairs with both arms filled with black
+    <i>chamaras</i>. It is the custom of the indian women, when they come to market, and
+    settle down with wares to sell, to fold their heavier garments and lay them on the
+    ground beside them. Don Murcio had gathered up the first of these he came to, and
+    fled with them to the government palace, while the crowd of angry women, chasing
+    along behind, expressed their feelings vigorously. Putting the garments out of reach,
+    the women were told by the officials, that each would receive back her property as
+    soon as the strangers made their desired measurements. While we were dealing with the
+    first cluster, Don Murcio sallied forth, and returned once more with garments and
+    women. In this way, the work proceeded, until the final lot were in our hands. Not to
+    unnecessarily increase their terrors, we had refrained from photographing, until the
+    final company had been secured. We had told the officials of our plan, and as these
+    later ones were measured, they were told that they must wait for their <a name="page370" id="page370"/>garments until the
+    last one was measured, and until the gentleman had done some other work. When all had
+    been measured, it was explained to the six of seven in the group, that they were to
+    go down into the <i>patio</i>, where a picture would be taken of the company. That
+    they might be properly prepared for the picture, their garments were returned.
+    Suspecting no treachery, Don Murcio led the way, and one of two police officers
+    accompanied the forward part of the procession, while Louis brought up the rear, in
+    expectation of making the portrait. All went well until the first two or three had
+    entered the <i>patio</i>, when the rest suddenly balked, and started to run out onto
+    the street. Hearing the confusion, I started down and caught one of the women as she
+    neared the doorway, while Louis held another, and each of the police officers, and
+    Don Murcio, seized a prisoner. So violent, however, were the struggles, and so loud
+    the outcries of the woman whom I held, that I released her, which was the unintended
+    signal for each of the other guards to do the same, and our group vanished and all
+    thought of gathering a second was given up in desperation.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image087a.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>TZOTZIL BROTHERS; CHAMULA</b></p>
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image087b.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>TZENDAL FATHER AND SON; TENEJAPA</b></p>
+<br />
+
+    <p>The morning had thus passed; animals for the further journey had been ordered for
+    ten o'clock, and were really ready a little before three. For once, however,
+    <i>we</i> were not prepared. It was our custom to pack the busts in petroleum boxes;
+    these boxes, each holding a five-gallon can of oil, are of just the size to take a
+    single bust, and they are so thin and light, yet at the same time, so well
+    constructed, that they served our purpose admirably. In small indian towns, they are
+    frequently unobtainable, but in the places where <i>mestizos</i> live, it had been
+    always easy to procure them, at prices varying from ten to twenty-five cents each. In
+    a town the size of San Cristobal, it should be easy to get them; to our surprise, we
+    found that they had been in such demand, for carrying purposes by public<a name="page371" id="page371"/> workmen, that the
+    supply was small and the price outrageous. We had left the securing of the boxes and
+    the packing of the busts to our plaster-worker, and, though we knew he had had
+    difficulty, imagined that he had secured all needed, and that the busts would be all
+    ready. Diligent search, however, had secured but two boxes, and ridiculous prices had
+    been demanded for those. All of us took to the streets, visiting stores and private
+    houses, and at last five boxes were secured, though they were a dilapidated lot, with
+    bad covers. For these we paid an average of sixty-two cents each. Realizing the time
+    and labor necessary for securing boxes, stuff for packing, and for the work of
+    putting up the busts, we dismissed our horsemen, and arranged for leaving the next
+    morning. In fact, night had fallen before our work was done. Leaving a little before
+    eight, we had a magnificent mountain ride. For a league or more, we rose steadily
+    over a cart-road; keeping at a high altitude, and, with but little of ups and downs,
+    we journeyed through fine pine forests, with oaks mingled, here and there, among the
+    pines. We met quantities of Chamula and Tenejapa indians on their way to market. The
+    Chamulas carried chairs, loads of well-tanned skins, and sacks full of little, round
+    wooden boxes, well and neatly made, while the Tenejapes were loaded with nets of
+    oranges, <i>limas</i>, and <i>ahuacates</i>. We were sorry to leave the village of
+    Chamula to one side, but lack of time forbade our visiting it. It was amusing to note
+    the terror of our <i>arriero</i> on the road. Until we passed Cancuc, he was
+    constantly expecting attack from the dreadful indians of Chamula, Tenejapa, and
+    Cancuc, telling us that such attacks might be expected at any time, but particularly
+    in the early morning and in the dusk of evening. What indians we met were most
+    gentle, and answered our salutations with apparent kindness. After a long journey on
+    the high, smooth road, we finally <a name="page372"
+    id="page372"/>began descending into a pretty valley, and soon saw the
+    great town of Tenejapa, below us, on a space almost as level as a floor, neatly laid
+    out, and still decked with the arches erected for a recent fiesta. The <i>agente</i>
+    of the town had been warned of our coming, by telephone from the <i>jefatura</i>, and
+    received us warmly, a little before one o'clock, giving us a large and comfortable
+    room in the municipal building, supplied with chairs and benches, and a table, though
+    without beds or mats. We were here delayed by the slowness of the old man, who had
+    been furnished at San Cristobal for carrying our instruments. By three o'clock, all
+    was ready, and the twenty-five women were summoned. They gave no kind of trouble, and
+    by six o'clock the work was done. Women here braid their hair in two braids, which
+    are wrapped about closely with cords, making them look like red ropes; these are then
+    wound around the head and picturesquely fastened. The <i>huip&iacute;ls</i> of cotton
+    are short, and decorated with scattered designs, worked in color, and loosely
+    arranged in transverse bands. Belts are of wool, red in color, and broad, but not
+    long. Over their shoulders the women wear, particularly in cool weather, a red and
+    blue striped cotton shawl or wrap. The red worn&mdash;whether in belts, wraps, or
+    hair-strings&mdash;is all of one shade, a dull crimson-red. As night fell, dozens of
+    little bonfires were lighted in the plaza, made from cobwork piles of fat-pine.
+    People were already gathering from other pueblos for market, and many of them slept
+    through the night in the open market-place. The band played a mournful piece,
+    repeatedly, during the evening, and some rockets were fired&mdash;no doubt, the
+    tailing-off of the late fiesta.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image088.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>CLOSE OF MARKET, TENEJAPA</b></p>
+<br />
+
+    <p>Market had begun in the morning, as we prepared to leave, but the great plaza was
+    not more than half-full, and there was little that was characteristic. Noteworthy,
+    how<a name="page373" id="page373"/>ever, were
+    the great loaves of salt made at Ixtapa; about the size of old-fashioned
+    sugar-loaves, they were shaped in rush-mats, and showed the marks of the matting on
+    their surface; saws were used to cut off pieces for purchasers. The <i>agente</i>
+    said that it was not good, being mixed with earth or sand. He, himself, came from the
+    neighborhood of Tapachula, where quantities of salt are made from the lagoon water.
+    The salt-water and the salt-soaked earth from the bottom of the lagoon are put into
+    vats and leached, and the resulting saline is boiled in ovens, each of which contains
+    an <i>olla</i>. The industry is conducted by <i>ladinos</i>, as well as indians, but
+    the salt is poor.</p>
+    <p>It was 8:45 when we started, and almost immediately we began a hard climb over
+    limestone, giving a severe test to our poor animals. At the summit we found a group
+    of indian carriers, who, as usual, stopped at the pass to rest and look upon the
+    landscape. The view was really beautiful, the little town lying in a curious, level
+    valley, which was encircled by an abrupt slope, and which had been excavated from an
+    almost level plateau. For some time, we followed this high level, but finally plunged
+    down into a deep gully, where our road passed away to the left in a dry gorge, while
+    to the right, the valley deepened abruptly by a great vertical wall. When we reached
+    the point of sudden deepening, in the gorge below, we saw water, bursting in volume
+    from the cliff's base. Dismounting from our horses, and climbing down, we found a
+    magnificent arch of limestone over the emerging stream, the water of which was fresh
+    and cold, and clear as crystal. The shallow portion of the valley marks the ancient
+    level of the stream. In some past time, the stream had sunk, cutting a subterranean
+    channel under its old bed, which was left high and dry. The deep part of the valley
+    may be due to the falling of the roof of rock above the subterranean stream. Fol<a name="page374" id="page374"/>lowing up the ancient
+    valley, we presently turned into one of its old tributary gorges, coming out into a
+    country well-wooded with pines and oaks. The whole country hereabouts is composed of
+    monoclines, all the crests presenting one long, gentle slope, with rocks dipping with
+    the slope, and one abrupt short slope, cutting the strata. The roads, for the most
+    part, follow along the edge of these monoclines, making them unusually long, though
+    easy. The rocks over which we passed were an olive shaly-sandstone, with notable
+    concentric weathering, limestone, and here and there, red sandstone, abundantly
+    green-spotted. Indians, everywhere, were burning over fields, preparatory to
+    planting, while the day was clear, the smoke rose in clouds, and at many places we
+    suffered from these field fires. Twice we passed a point just as the flames leaped
+    from one side of the road to the other, and rode between two lines of blaze. The
+    fire, burning green branches and stalks, caused thousands of loud explosions, like
+    the rattle of musketry.</p>
+    <p>Long before we were near it, we caught sight of Cancuc, the beautiful, perched
+    upon its lofty crest. In San Cristobal, our journey had been matter of conversation
+    among the <i>mestizos</i> and many and dire predictions had been made. "Ah, yes, it
+    is easy for these gentlemen to do this work here in the <i>cabecera</i>, but let them
+    get to Tenejapa, and Cancuc&mdash;there it will be another matter; they will be
+    killed upon the journey; if they reach Cancuc, they will never leave the town alive."
+    The town is built on the edge of a ridge, which drops in both directions, leaving
+    barely room for the placing of houses. From it, we looked out in every direction over
+    a magnificent landscape. Cancuc is famous for the insurrection of 1712. Curiously,
+    like the outbreak at Chamula in 1868, it was due to the visions and religious
+    influence of a girl. Maria Candaleria was the centre and impulse of the whole
+    movement. Dr. Brinton has thrown<a name="page375"
+    id="page375"/> the incident, which abounded in picturesque details,
+    and which caused the Spanish government great difficulty, into a little drama, which
+    bears the name of the inspired priestess.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image089a.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>TZENDAL MAN AND WIFE; TENEJAPA</b></p>
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image089b.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>TZENDALS; TENEJAPA</b></p>
+<br />
+
+
+    <p>We were now within the district of my friend Valencia. Two years ago, when we
+    passed through the country of the Mixes, he was the <i>jefe politico</i> of the
+    District of Yautepec; he had been transferred to this state and this district, with
+    his <i>cabecera</i> at Ocosingo. That town lay far from our course, and we had
+    written Se&ntilde;or Valencia, that we planned to pass through his district, but had
+    not time to visit the <i>cabecera</i>. We named the towns through which we planned to
+    pass, and begged him to send orders directly to the local authorities, instead of
+    trying to communicate with us. This he had done promptly, and during our stay in his
+    district, everything was done for us without delay. The <i>agente</i> at Cancuc is a
+    new official, but a man of sense, and sympathy for the indians, among whom he lives.
+    We arrived at half-past three and had our <i>mozo</i> been on time, might have done
+    some work. The <i>agente</i> showed us the historic picture in the old church; it is
+    the portrait of a clergyman, whose influence did much to quell the insurrection in
+    1713. More interesting to us than the old picture, were groups of indians, kneeling
+    and praying. When they knelt, they touched their foreheads and faces to the ground,
+    which they saluted with a kiss. Having assumed the attitude of prayer, they were
+    oblivious to all around them, and, curiously, their prayers were in the native
+    language. The town-house was placed at the disposition of our party, but the
+    <i>agente's</i> bed, in his own house, was given to me. As I sat writing at the table
+    in his room, the whole town government&mdash;a dozen or so in number&mdash;stalked
+    in. Most of them wore the heavy black <i>chamaras</i> made by the Chamula indians.
+    These were so long that they almost swept the ground. The faces of the men were dark
+    and wild, and their hair hung in <a name="page376"
+    id="page376"/>great black shocks down upon their shoulders and backs.
+    In their hands they held their long official staves. Advancing to the table where I
+    sat, in the order of their rank, they saluted me, kissing my hand; arranging
+    themselves in a half-circle before my table, the <i>presidente</i> placed before me a
+    bowl filled with eggs, each wrapped in corn-husks, while the first <i>alcalde</i>
+    deposited a cloth filled with a high pile of hot <i>tortillas</i>; a speech was made
+    in Tzendal, which was translated by the second official, in which they told me that
+    they appreciated our visit; it gave them pleasure that such important persons should
+    come from such a distance to investigate the life and manners of their humble town;
+    they trusted that our errand might be entirely to our wishes, and that, in leaving,
+    we might bear with us a pleasant memory. They begged us to accept the poor presents
+    they had brought, while they assured us that, in them, we had our thousand most
+    obedient servants. And this in Cancuc&mdash;the town where we were to have met our
+    death! At night, the fires on a hundred hills around us made a magnificent display,
+    forming all sorts of fantastic combinations and outlines. In the evening, the son of
+    the <i>agente</i>, who had been to Tenango with a friend, came home in great
+    excitement. He was a lively young fellow of eighteen years. At the river-crossing,
+    where they arrived at five in the evening, a black cow, standing in the river, scared
+    their horses so that they could not make them cross; the boy emptied his revolver at
+    the animal, but with no effect; it was clearly a <i>vaca bruja</i>&mdash;witch cow;
+    an hour and a half was lost before they succeeded in getting their horses past with a
+    rush.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image090.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>THE TOWN GOVERNMENT; CANCUC</b></p>
+<br />
+
+    <p>The morning was spent in making pictures. While still in Yucatan, we heard about
+    the music of Cancuc, and among our views was one of the musicians. These are three in
+    number, and they head processions at fiestas; the drum, like that we saw at Tuxtla,
+    is cylindrical, with two<a name="page377"
+    id="page377"/> heads; the <i>pito</i> is the usual reed whistle; the
+    <i>tortuga</i>, a large turtle-shell, was brought from Palenque; it is hung by a belt
+    to the player, and is beaten on the lower side with two leg-bones of a deer. The
+    Cancuc dress is simple. Men wear the breech-clout, and, when they carry burdens,
+    little else; at other times, they wear short, cotton trousers which hardly reach the
+    knees. The chief garment is a <i>camisa</i>, of native cotton, with a colored
+    stitching at the neck and along the seam where the two edges join; this <i>camisa</i>
+    is of such length that, when girded, it hangs just to, or a little below, the lower
+    edge of the trouser leg. The belts are home-woven, but are made of cotton which is
+    bought already dyed a brilliant red or yellow. Women wear woolen belts made by
+    Chamulas; their <i>enaguas</i> are plain, dull blue in color; their
+    <i>huip&iacute;ls</i> are a dirty white, with a minimum of colored stitching. The
+    chief industry at Cancuc is raising pigs for market.</p>
+    <p>At 1:15 we started from the town, and rode down the crest of long, gently-sloping
+    ridges, which seemed interminable. The rock over which we passed was red sandstone,
+    mottled and streaked with green, red shale, and occasional patches of conglomerate.
+    Crossing a little stream by a pretty bridge, we made an abrupt ascent, and soon saw
+    the little town, Cuaquitepec, at the base of the opposite hill.</p>
+    <p>We met many indians carrying great ovoidal jars which were made at Tenango, and
+    which are chiefly used for carrying <i>chicha</i>. This is a fermented drink, made
+    from the sap of sugar-cane, and is much used throughout this state and the adjoining
+    parts of Central America. We inquired of a girl who carried such a vessel, what she
+    had, and asked to try it. She gave us a sip in a wee gourd-vessel, holding less than
+    a wine-glass. Knowing nothing of the price of <i>chicha</i>, we gave her six
+    centavos, with which she seemed well satisfied. A little later, deciding to test the
+    drink again, <a name="page378" id="page378"/>we
+    stopped a man, who had a vessel of it, and again were given the little cup. On
+    stating that we wished a centavo's worth, we were much surprised to have him fill a
+    great <i>j&iacute;cara</i> for the price mentioned. It seems the little vessel is
+    carried only for sampling, and that a sale is made only after the purchaser has
+    approved the quality.</p>
+    <p>Reaching Cuaquitepec at five, we rode up to the town-house, that the authorities
+    might know that we had passed. The place is small and dwindling; there are relatively
+    many <i>ladinos</i>, and few indians. They were expecting us, and seemed disappointed
+    at our refusal to stop. The shell of the old church, almost ready to fall, suggested
+    past magnificence. The little modern structure, at its side, is suited to the present
+    needs. We were vexed at the wanton sacrifice of a great tree, which had stood near
+    the town-house, but whose giant trunk was prostrate, and stripped of its branches. A
+    man on foot showed us the road beyond the town, and it was moonlight before we
+    reached Citala, where we planned to sleep. Of the town itself, we know nothing. The
+    old church is decaying, but in its best days must have been magnificent. The
+    <i>presidente</i> was absent, but his wife, an active, bustling intelligent
+    <i>ladino</i>, expected us, and did everything possible for our comfort. Eggs, beans,
+    <i>tortillas</i> and coffee made up the supper. A room, containing a bed for me, and
+    <i>petates</i> on the floor for my companions, was waiting. When a light was struck
+    more than a dozen great cockroaches were seen running over the wall, none of them
+    less than two inches and a half in length, and of the most brilliant orange and dark
+    brown. In the morning, a fine chicken breakfast was promptly ready, and the woman had
+    summoned a <i>cargador</i> to be ready for our starting. She said that in this town
+    there is a considerable indian population, and that these Tzendals are tall and
+    strongly-built, in comparison with those of Cuaquitepec, and other neighboring<a name="page379" id="page379"/> towns. She regretted
+    that we could not wait until her husband came, as she had sent him word of our
+    arrival, and was expecting him. We assured her that she had done everything which he
+    could possibly have done, had he been present, and that we should, with pleasure,
+    report our satisfaction to the <i>jefe</i>.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image091a.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>INDIAN CARRIERS RESTING</b></p>
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image091b.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>DRIVING PIGS, NEAR CANCUC</b></p>
+<br />
+
+    <p>The <i>cargador</i> whom she supplied, was a comfort, after the wretched sluggards
+    whom we had lately had. With our instruments upon his shoulders, he trotted, like a
+    faithful dog, directly at our side, from start to finish, never showing the least
+    weariness or sense of burden. Both foot <i>mozos</i> and <i>arrieros</i> through this
+    district carry a mass of <i>posole</i> with them on a journey. Unlike that which
+    Eustasio and his Zapotec companions carried, the mass here is pure corn, white and
+    moist, being kept wrapped in fresh banana leaves; at every brook-side, a
+    <i>j&iacute;cara</i> of fresh water is dipped, and a handful of <i>posole</i> is
+    squeezed up in it till thoroughly mixed, when it is drunk. It tastes a little sour,
+    and is refreshing. At 11:15, we passed the bridge over the stream on which Chilon is
+    built, and a moment later drew up at the town-house. Here we regretted that our
+    serious work with the Tzendals was done. We were received royally, and told that our
+    house was ready. This was really so, a pretty little house of three good rooms having
+    been cleaned and prepared for our use. We lay down and napped until the good dinner,
+    which had been started when we had first been seen upon the road, and some time
+    before we reached the village, was ready. Sitting on the porch of our little house,
+    and looking out over bushes, full of roses, in the garden before us, we rested until
+    the greatest heat of the day was past, when we started, and pushed on over the three
+    leagues that lay between us and Yajalon, where we arrived at near sunset. The town is
+    large, and, in great part, indian. The women dressed more gaily than in any other
+    Tzendal <a name="page380" id="page380"/>town
+    which we have seen; their <i>huip&iacute;ls</i> were decorated with a mass of bright
+    designs, worked in colored wools or silk. Here we saw our first Chol, a carrier,
+    passing through the village with his load; in order to make a start upon our final
+    tribe, we had him halted, to take his measurements and picture. At this town, we
+    stopped at a sort of boarding-house, or traveller's-rest, close by the town-house,
+    kept by a widow with several children. We impressed upon this good woman the
+    necessity of having breakfast without fail at five o'clock, as we wished to make an
+    early start, stopping at Hidalgo for work during the hotter portion of the day, and
+    pressing on to Tumbala at night. The poor creature kept me awake all night, making
+    her preparations for the meal, which was to be a masterpiece of culinary art, and at
+    four o'clock routed us all out with the report that breakfast was waiting on the
+    table. It was a turkey-breakfast, too.</p>
+    <hr style="width: 65%;" />
+    <h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXVI" id="CHAPTER_XXVI"></a>CHAPTER XXVI</h2>
+    <a name="page381" id="page381"/>
+    <h2>CHOLS</h2>
+    <h3>(1901)</h3>
+    <p>Of course, after such a start, we were delayed in getting the animals ready for
+    the journey, and the sun had been up full half an hour when we left. It was a short
+    ride to Hidalgo, which lies prettily in a small, flat valley, on a good-sized stream.
+    We were doubtful about our reception, for Yajalon was the last town in Valencia's
+    district, and we had no documents to present to the town officials, until we should
+    reach El Salto, the <i>cabecera</i>, except our general letter from Governor Lopez.
+    It is true that the <i>presidente</i> of Yajalon, at our request, had telephoned
+    Hidalgo that we came highly recommended, and that everything possible must be done
+    for our assistance. The <i>agente</i> was an old man, suffering from headache, who
+    showed but listless interest in our work. In a general way, he gave us his
+    endorsement, and we, therefore, took the management into our own hands. He had kept
+    the people in town, so that we had subjects, though fewer than we had hoped. We
+    measured twenty-seven men, and there were really no more in the town, the rest being
+    away on <i>fincas</i>. The men gave us no trouble, but the women were another matter.
+    Several times we issued orders that they be brought to the town-house for
+    measurement, and each time, after an effort to obey our orders, we were told that
+    they would not come. "Very good," said I, "if they will not come, it is plain that we
+    must go and measure them in their houses." Accompanied by the town government, we
+    started on our <a name="page382" id="page382"/>
+    rounds. The first house was tightly closed, and no reply was made to our demands for
+    entrance. The second was the same; one might imagine that it had been deserted for
+    weeks. At the third, the door was opened, and within, an aged woman, ugly, bent,
+    decrepit. Here we measured. The next house, and the next, and the next, were shut.
+    And then another open house contained another veritable hag. Passing several other
+    houses, tightly closed, we found a third old woman, and I saw that we were destined
+    to secure nothing but decrepit hags, as representatives of the fair sex. At the next
+    closed house, I stopped, and turning to an official, who spoke Spanish, said, "I am
+    tired of these closed houses; who owns this house?" His name was given, and I wrote
+    it down. "Very well," said I, "I shall recommend to the <i>jefe</i> of the district,
+    when I reach El Salto, that he be made to pay a fine of five pesos." At this, the
+    town officials gasped, but we walked to the next house, which was also closed. "Who
+    owns this house?" And down went a second name. By the time I had three names of
+    owners of closed houses on my paper, the officials held a hasty whispered
+    consultation; then coming to me, they begged me to excuse them for a moment, as the
+    <i>secretario</i> would accompany me upon my round, and they would soon rejoin us.
+    With this, they disappeared, and we entered another old woman's house. When we
+    emerged, a wonderful change had taken place; every house in the village had its door
+    wide open, and in the doorway were to be seen anywhere from one to three or four
+    ladies of all ages. From this time on, there was no lack of women, and the
+    twenty-five were promptly measured.</p>
+    <p>We had picked out our subjects for modeling before we started on our rounds to
+    measure women; and had left Ramon in charge of that part of our work, staying only
+    long enough to see him make the mould of the first subject.<a
+    name="page383" id="page383"/> This was an indian, named Juan, the
+    first <i>alcalde</i> of the village. We had carefully explained the operation to our
+    subjects; we had described in detail the sensations and emotions connected with the
+    thing, and thought we had the subjects well prepared. When Juan began, he seemed to
+    have good courage, but we told a young fellow, who sat near and understood Spanish,
+    that he should tell the man certain encouraging things which we repeated to him. The
+    translation was promptly done, and we were therefore much surprised to see our
+    subject's confidence gradually give way to terror. While we were applying the first
+    mould, he began to sob and cry like a child; this was, however, nothing compared with
+    the abject terror and sorrow which he displayed while we were making the face-mould.
+    The tears flowed from his eyes; he sobbed, cried aloud, and we could see the thumping
+    of his heart against his chest. We had never had a subject who took the matter so
+    hardly. When the operation was completed, we learned the cause of all this trouble.
+    Our interpreter turned out to be a joker, and, while we were telling him encouraging
+    remarks, with which to soothe the subject, he was saying, "Now you will die; pretty
+    soon you will not be able to breathe any more; you will be dead and buried before
+    to-morrow; your poor widow will no doubt feel badly, but probably she will find
+    another quite as good as you." We had always realized the possibility of such
+    misinterpretations, but, so far as we know, this was the only time that our
+    interpreter ever played us false.</p>
+    <p>On our return from measuring the women, we found that Ramon had made no progress.
+    The three subjects, whom we had selected and left in his charge, under strenuous
+    orders, had taken fright at Juan's experience and fled. We lost two hours in hunting
+    them and bringing them in; and we should not have succeeded then, had it not been
+    for<a name="page384" id="page384"/> Juan's
+    assistance. He seemed to feel that, having undergone the operation, it might ease his
+    position, and decrease possible danger, if he had companions in misery. Finally, at
+    4:30, long after the hour we had set, we left for Tumbala. We secured six
+    <i>cargadors</i>&mdash;one each for the four moulds, one for the instruments, and one
+    for the remaining plaster,&mdash;as our pack-animals had long since passed. Five of
+    them were left to follow at their leisure, on condition that they reach Tumbala early
+    the next morning, but the sixth, a wee old man, who had helped us woman-hunting, went
+    with us, by his own request, to carry the instruments. He was so small that we did
+    not believe he could carry the burden, but he made no sort of trouble about it,
+    trotting along most happily. We had been told that the road was <i>pura
+    subida</i>&mdash;pure ascent&mdash;and so we found it. We were soon in the tropical
+    forest of the Chinantla, and the land of the Mixes, with begonias, tree-ferns,
+    bromelias, and orchids. Here and there, were bad bits of road, deep mud, slippery
+    stones, irregular limestone masses. It was dark before we reached Tumbala, and
+    although there was a moon, the mists were so dense that it did little good. Arriving
+    at 6:45, we found the town a wretched place, with a worthless and nerveless
+    <i>agente</i>. This was once the largest of the Chol towns, and we had thought to do
+    the bulk of our work there. It is fortunate, indeed, that we stopped at Hidalgo,
+    because Tumbala is now completely ruined by the contract-labor system, which has sent
+    its men all through the country onto <i>fincas</i>. The <i>agente</i> would probably
+    have done nothing for us, but his little daughter, much impressed by our letter from
+    the governor, took an active interest in our welfare, promised to prepare a dinner,
+    and decided him to give us sleeping-quarters in a store-room in the building. He
+    thawed a little after we had eaten, but spoke discouragingly regarding the
+    possibility of work<a name="page385"
+    id="page385"/>ing there. He said we would do well to go to El
+    Triunfo; that it would take two days to find indians and bring them to the town; that
+    there were no animals, nothing to eat, no conveniences in Tumbala, in all of which he
+    probably was quite correct. Our <i>arrieros</i> had contracted only to this point
+    from San Cristobal. We urged them to make the further journey, and offered them a
+    price much above the regular, but they wanted to be back in San Cristobal for Holy
+    Week, and assured us that the roads ahead were the worst that could be imagined, and
+    that they ran the risk of killing all their animals if they went with us.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image092a.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>THE TORO; FRAME AND BEARER; EL TRIUNFO</b></p>
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image092b.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>PLAYING TORO; EL TRIUNFO</b></p>
+<br />
+
+
+    <p>As we were on the road, a little before we reached Tumbala, we found a company of
+    indian boys making camp for the night. Calling to us, they said that Don Enrique had
+    told them if they saw us on the road, to say that we should keep straight on to El
+    Triunfo, as he had a message for us. We had never heard of Don Enrique, and thought
+    there was some error, but after supper, the <i>agente</i> handed us a letter which
+    had come that afternoon from the gentleman in question. In it we read: "Sir: Mr.
+    Ellsworth, of the Rio Michol Rubber Co., Salto, asked me by telephone to tell you
+    that he will be waiting for you the 4th of April in La Cruzada, and hopes that you
+    will kindly accompany Mrs. Ellsworth as far as Mexico, and that, in case she would
+    not find a steamer in Frontera, he is going to charter one. Hoping to see you here in
+    Triunfo, and waiting for an answer to La Cruzada, I remain, Yours truly, H. Rau."
+    This was a gleam of light amid our dark affairs. There we were, with all our baggage
+    and instruments, but without carriers, deserted by our <i>arrieros</i>, and with no
+    opportunity in Tumbala to secure new animals or helpers; it was like the voice of a
+    friend, to receive this English letter from El Triunfo, and we felt that, if worst
+    came to worst, Don Enrique might help us out.</p>
+    <p><a name="page386" id="page386"/> The room in
+    which we slept was filled with stored stuff and two tables. On one of these I made my
+    bed, while my companions spread a large <i>petate</i> on the floor, and our little
+    indian carrier put down a small one for himself, as he declared he should not leave
+    us until morning. He had a good supper, and in a fit of generosity, presented Louis
+    with what was left of his package of <i>posole</i>. With much enthusiasm, he told us
+    of an "animal" which he had seen and tried to catch upon the road. From his
+    description, it appeared to be an armadillo. Before he lay down on his <i>petate</i>,
+    he kissed my hand, wished me a good night's rest, and asked my good-night blessing.
+    He was happy in possession of a <i>real's</i> worth of <i>aguardiente</i>, from
+    which, at intervals during the night, he drank. Early in the morning, he opened the
+    door, and, looking out, crossed himself, and repeated his morning prayer. He then
+    came to <i>Tatita</i> (little father) to receive his morning's blessing, and hoped
+    that I had passed a good night in slumber. He then brought me a <i>j&iacute;cara</i>
+    of cool, fresh water, after which he urged me to take a sip from his dear bottle.
+    Going outside a little time, he returned with two roses, heavy with dew and very
+    fragrant, and gave them to me as if they were a gift for kings. Very soon, however,
+    his potations got the better of him, and bidding us a fond farewell, he started for
+    Hidalgo.</p>
+    <p>It was my day of fever, and I spent the greater portion of the morning on my hard
+    bed, getting up from time to time to try to move the <i>agente</i> to procure an
+    animal, on which I might make the journey to El Triunfo. Finally, in despair, after
+    difficulty in securing a foot-messenger, I sent a letter to Don Enrique, asking him
+    to send an animal for my use. During the afternoon, a fine mule and a letter came
+    from El Triunfo. "Sir: The boy brought me your letter, and I send you a good mule for
+    yourself, so we shall <a name="page387"
+    id="page387"/>talk all the rest when you shall get here. If you need
+    more pack-mules I will send them afterwards, as soon as you tell me how many you
+    need. Hoping to see you this afternoon, I remain, Yours very truly, Henry Rau." The
+    road was down hill, and there were but two or three bad spots. I rode through
+    tropical forests, the whole distance, with high trees, bound together with a mass of
+    vines, and loaded with parasitic or aerial plants. Here and there, rose the largest
+    tree-ferns I have ever seen. I was not in the best mood, however, for enjoying the
+    journey, and the hour-and-a-quarter seemed like much more. The great coffee
+    <i>finca</i> of El Triunfo occupied an irregular valley, the slopes of which were
+    covered with thousands of coffee-trees, with their magnificent dark green leaves and
+    sweet-scented, white flowers. Three hundred and fifty thousand trees made up the
+    plantation, which was one of two owned and managed by Se&ntilde;or Rau. The house was
+    large, and rather pretentious, two stories in height, with buildings for cleaning,
+    packing and storing coffee on the same terrace, and with a veritable village of
+    houses for the indian workmen down below. I received a warm reception from the
+    Se&ntilde;or and his household, who have established here a veritable bit of Germany
+    in tropical America. Not only was I myself cared for, but I was urged to make no
+    haste in going further, as no steamer would go from La Cruzada before the 4th, and it
+    would be easy to reach that place in twenty-four hours. So, for several days the
+    hospitable plantation-house was my home. Great lines of mules were constantly going
+    from here, through to El Salto and La Cruzada, with loads of coffee, and coming back
+    with provisions, and the many supplies necessary for an establishment of this
+    importance. When the next <i>mulada</i> should appear, animals would be sent to
+    Tumbala for my companions and the luggage. Curiously, none came for two whole
+    days&mdash;a very unusual <a name="page388"
+    id="page388"/>occurrence&mdash;and the boys remained prisoners in
+    that dreary town for all that time. For my own part, I was thankful to reach a place
+    where a comfortable bed and certain meals were to be counted on. My fever left me,
+    but the following morning I found myself suffering from swollen jaws; every tooth was
+    loose and sore, and it was difficult to chew even the flesh of bananas; this
+    difficulty I had lately suffered, whenever in the moist mountain district of
+    Pennsylvania, and I feared that there would be no relief until I was permanently out
+    of the district of forest-grown mountains. Nor was I mistaken, for ten days passed,
+    and we had reached the dry central table-land of Mexico, before my suffering ended.
+    One day, while we were on the <i>finca</i>, considerable excitement was caused by one
+    of the Indians working in the field being bitten by a poisonous serpent. The man was
+    brought at once to the house, and remedies were applied which prevented serious
+    results, although his leg swelled badly. The serpent was killed, and measured about
+    five feet in length, having much the general appearance of a rattlesnake, but with no
+    rattles. Don Enrique says that the most dangerous snake in this district is a little
+    creature more brightly colored, with a smaller head, which is less markedly flat, and
+    with smaller fangs; he showed us one of these, not more than a foot in length, from
+    whose bite a man on the plantation, a year before, had died. In telling us of this
+    event, he gave us a suggestion of the working of the contract-labor system; the man
+    who died owed one hundred and forty pesos of work&mdash;almost three years of labor;
+    the <i>jefe</i>, indeed, had sent the son to work out the debt, but the young man
+    soon ran away, and the most diligent effort to recapture him had failed.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image093.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>CHOL WOMEN; LA TRINIDAD</b></p>
+<br />
+
+    <p>Perhaps two hundred persons lived as workmen on the <i>finca</i> of El Triunfo.
+    They were, of course, all indians, and<a name="page389"
+    id="page389"/> were about evenly divided between Tzendals and Chols;
+    it was impossible to gather them for measurement till Sunday, when they all came to
+    the house and the store. It was a day of amusement and recreation for the laborers, a
+    day when all of them&mdash;men, women, children&mdash;drank quantities of liquor. It
+    was interesting to watch them as they came up to the store to make their little
+    purchases for the week. All were in their best clothing, and family groups presented
+    many interesting scenes. On Sundays and fiestas, they play <i>toro</i>&mdash;one man
+    creeping into a framework of light canes covered with leather, meant to represent a
+    bull, while others play the part of bull-fighters. The Chols present a well-marked
+    type. They are short, broad-headed and dark-skinned; their noses are among the most
+    aquiline in Mexico. Men, especially those of Tumbala, have a characteristic mode of
+    cropping the hair; that on the back of the head is cut close, leaving the hair of the
+    forward third of the head longer. The men are almost immediately recognized, wherever
+    met, by the characteristic <i>camisa</i>, made of white cotton, vertically striped
+    with narrow lines of pink, which is woven in the Chol towns, and does not appear to
+    be used by other Indians.</p>
+    <p>The doors of the hospitable home at El Triunfo are ever open, and a day rarely
+    passes without some traveller seeking shelter and entertainment. Spaniards, Mexicans,
+    Germans, Englishmen, Americans, all are welcome, and during the few days of our stay,
+    the house was never free of other visitors. Among these was Stanton Morrison, famous
+    in Yale's football team in '92; he now lives in this district, and has a coffee
+    <i>finca</i> four hours' ride away.</p>
+    <p>Finally, at 10:10 Tuesday morning, April 2d, having completed all our work, we
+    started from El Triunfo for our last ride of the season. We could easily have gone,
+    starting in the early morning, to El Salto before night; as it <a name="page390" id="page390"/>was, Don Enrique
+    planned a different method. We had good animals, which he had loaned us, or for which
+    he had arranged for us with the muleteers. At two o'clock we reached La Trinidad,
+    where he had promised that we should eat the finest meal in the State of Chiapas. We
+    found a complete surprise. Trinidad is little more than a <i>finca</i>, or
+    <i>rancho</i>, but it has an <i>agente</i>, and quite a population of Chol indians.
+    The <i>agente</i> was a decent-looking fellow, active and ambitious; he talks a
+    little English, and is something of an amateur photographer. His house of poles and
+    mud presented no notable external features, but within, it was supplied with
+    furniture so varied and abundant as is rare in any part of Mexico. Chairs, rockers,
+    tables, cupboards, washstands, all were there; and beds, real beds, which for
+    cleanness were marvels. As soon as we entered the house, fresh water and clean towels
+    were brought. On the tables were vases of fresh-gathered flowers, in quantities, and
+    beautifully arranged. The visible service for all this elegance, and for the meals,
+    were two little indian girls not more than six or eight years old, neatly dressed,
+    and an indian boy of the same size and cleanness. The invisible helpers were buxom
+    indian girls, well-dressed and clean, but who never came into the room where we were,
+    leaving all carrying, setting of tables, and serving, in the hands of these three
+    little servants. There was, indeed, one other person in the household&mdash;a
+    beautiful girl, slender and refined, whose relation to the master I do not know, but
+    who was treated by him as if she were a veritable queen, or some lovely flower in the
+    wilderness. Here we rested, ate and slept in comfort, and here, when morning came, we
+    paid a bill which ordinarily would have seemed large; however, if one finds beautiful
+    flowers in the wilderness, he must expect to pay. It was worth while paying to enjoy
+    the best sleep, in the best bed, that one had had for months.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image094a.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>A CHOL FAMILY; LA TRINIDAD</b></p>
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image094b.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>CHOLS; LA TRINIDAD</b></p>
+<br />
+
+    <a name="page391" id="page391"/>
+
+    <p>The <i>agente</i> rode with us in the morning quite a league upon our road, to a
+    place which he was clearing for a <i>milpa</i>. We had heard so much of the horrors
+    of the road to El Salto, that we were prepared for the worst. It was not an abrupt
+    descent, as we had expected, but for the most part level, over black mud. There were
+    a few ups and downs, and there was one limestone hill with tree-ferns and begonias,
+    and all that that implies. Much of the way we had a drizzling rain, and everywhere
+    the air was hot and heavy. After four hours' riding, we stopped at ten to eat a
+    breakfast which we had brought with us, and then rode through to El Salto, where we
+    arrived at 12:30. This is the <i>cabecera</i> of the district, and the <i>jefe</i>
+    could not understand why we should continue on our journey, as the steamer would not
+    leave until the following day. Don Enrique, however, had urged us not to stop at El
+    Salto, where he insisted the risk from yellow fever was great. He advised us to go on
+    to La Cruzada, where he had a house and an agent, and where, he told us, we could
+    arrange for sleeping and eating as comfortably, and far more safely, than in the
+    town. The distance was short, but the place, in truth, was dreary. The landing was at
+    the bottom of a little slope, at the upper edge of which stood Don Enrique's place,
+    the store-house of the steamship company, the house and barnyard of the manager of
+    the mule trains, and one or two unattractive huts. When we arrived, we found that the
+    mayor domo had that day resigned, and left the place, going to El Salto; before he
+    left, he quarreled with the cook, and she had gone off in high dudgeon. Two young
+    employes, left behind, advised us to return to El Salto until the time of
+    embarkation. We, however, had left El Salto behind us, and had our luggage with us,
+    and were little inclined to retrace our steps. After some grumbling, we were supplied
+    with beds, but told that the food problem was impossible. After much wheed<a name="page392" id="page392"/>ling, coaxing,
+    bribing, and threatening, a woman in one of the huts promised to cook something for
+    us, and we had nothing more to do but wait, until the steamer should be ready. The
+    chief excitement of the day was when the mule trains were driven in, towards evening.
+    With them came a swarm of mosquitoes, which absolutely darkened the air. Fortunately
+    they did not stay, but after an hour and a half of troubling, disappeared as suddenly
+    as they arrived. The river had fallen to that degree that it was impossible for our
+    steamer, the Mariscal, to come up to La Cruzada, and we learned that it was anchored
+    about a league down the river. A flatboat, poled by indians, came up to the landing,
+    ready to receive cargo and passengers, and to transfer them to the steamer. In the
+    morning, the loading of the flatboat and the getting ready for departure, took all
+    our thought. At ten o'clock Mr. and Mrs. Ellsworth, with their baby and two servants,
+    appeared in small canoes, which had been poled by indians from the plantation,
+    several hours' journey up the Michol River. At the last moment, Mr. Ellsworth had
+    decided to accompany his party to the city. When everything was loaded, quite
+    promptly, at twelve o'clock, the flatboat pushed out from its moorings. Mr.
+    Ellsworth's little launch was standing at the landing, and he invited me to ride in
+    it, with him and Mrs. Ellsworth and the baby, to the steamer. We started off right
+    proudly in the Miriam, but, alas, pride goes before destruction, and we had hardly
+    left the heavy flatboat a little behind us, when our machinery broke down, and we had
+    to wait until the clumsy scow overtook us, when we became common passengers again,
+    and drifted down the stream to the Mariscal, passing the Lumeha plantation, an
+    American enterprise.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image095.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>CHOLS RESTING, LA TRINIDAD</b></p>
+<br />
+
+    <p>The Mariscal itself was a little steamer, too small for the passengers and freight
+    it had to carry. It had no beds nor cabin; it was dirty and crowded; it had not food
+    enough to<a name="page393" id="page393"/> feed
+    the first-class passengers, who paid twenty-five pesos each for their short journey.
+    There was, indeed, no other class of passengers, only one grade of tickets being
+    sold. When complaints were made of the accommodations, or lack of all accommodations,
+    the <i>agente</i>, who was on the vessel with us, expressed surprise, and seemed
+    profoundly hurt. The stream is full of curves and bends, is broad, and notably
+    uniform in breadth; it has considerable current, and is bordered closely by the
+    tropical forest, except where little clearings have been made for <i>fincas</i>.
+    Formerly, caimans, or alligators, were common, but they have become rare, through the
+    diligent hunting to which they have been subjected for supplying skins. Two days are
+    usually taken in the journey to Frontera, though it is not a fifteen hours' run. Mr.
+    Ellsworth arranged for our going directly through, so that, except one stop at a
+    midway station, we made a continuous journey, and drew up at Frontera at 9:50 in the
+    morning.</p>
+    <p>It is a mean little town, but far cleaner than Coatzacoalcos. Real grass grows
+    there, and the little plaza is almost a lawn. Last year, when yellow fever was so
+    terrible at Coatzacoalcos, and when, even at El Salto, there were forty cases, there
+    were none here. The town is hot, and during the two days we spent there, our chief
+    effort was to keep cool. The steamer, Mexico, appeared upon the 6th, planning to
+    leave the same day. A norther came, however, and rendered the bar impassable. In the
+    morning, Easter Sunday, the wind had fallen somewhat. We saw the little celebration
+    at the church, and, learning that the boat was likely to leave at noon, went aboard.
+    At one we started. Sailing down the river, we soon found ourselves between the piers,
+    and the moment of test had come. At the first thump of the keel upon the sand, we
+    doubted whether we should pass the bar; still we kept along with steam full on and
+    the <a name="page394" id="page394"/>bow headed
+    seaward; nine times we struck the sandy bottom, but then found ourselves in deeper
+    water, and were again upon the Gulf. The Mexico was just as dirty, the food was just
+    as bad, and the crew just as unaccommodating, as in 1896, when we had our first
+    experience of her. Rather than lie in the stuffy cabin, I took my blanket out on
+    deck, and rolled up there for the night. Room was plenty, as there were only a score
+    of passengers. When we woke, the boat was standing in the harbor of Coatzacoalcos,
+    and we landed to eat a breakfast at the hotel. Through the day, we wandered about
+    town, but were again upon the vessel at four o'clock. We now numbered about a hundred
+    passengers, and everything was crowded. In the company was a comic theatre troupe.
+    The day before, a number of the passengers had been seasick; on this occasion,
+    three-fourths were suffering, and the decks were a disgusting spectacle. Still, fresh
+    air was there, and again I made my bed on deck. In the middle of the night, having
+    moved slightly, I felt a sharp and sudden pain in my right temple, exactly as if I
+    had rolled upon a sharp, hot tack. I had my jacket for a pillow, and thought at first
+    that there really was a tack in one of the pockets, and sought, but in vain, to find
+    it. Lying down to sleep again, I presently moved my hand over the blanket on the
+    deck, and suddenly, again, I felt the sharp, burning prick, this time in my thumb.
+    Certain that it could not be a tack this time, I brought my hand down forcibly, and,
+    rising, saw by the moonlight that I had killed a large, black scorpion. For two hours
+    the stings felt like fire, but by morning had ceased to pain me; then I found two or
+    three of the other passengers suffering from similar stings, and reached the
+    conclusion that the Mexico was swarming with the creatures. At dawn, we sighted Vera
+    Cruz, and were soon in the harbor, standing at anchor; at eight o'clock, we stood
+    upon the wharf, and our journeys in Indian Mexico were ended.</p>
+
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image096a.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>INDIAN HUT; SANTA ANITA</b></p>
+<br />
+<p class="center"><img alt="" src="images/image096b.jpg" /></p>
+<p class="center"><b>GUADALUPE; DECEMBER 12</b></p>
+<br />
+
+    <hr style="width: 65%;" />
+    <h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXVII" id="CHAPTER_XXVII"></a>CHAPTER XXVII</h2>
+    <a name="page395" id="page395"/>
+    <h3>CONCLUSION</h3>
+    <p>But it was not necessary to go to distant Oaxaca and Chiapas to find Mexican
+    indians. On the border of the capital city lie Santa Anita, Iztacalco, Mexicalcingo,
+    Ixtapalapa, and a quantity of other villages and towns, where one may still find
+    Aztec indians of pure blood, sometimes speaking the old language, sometimes wearing
+    characteristic dress, and maintaining, to the present, many ancient practices and
+    customs. At Santa Anita, for example, one may eat <i>juiles</i> and <i>tamales</i>,
+    catch a glimpse of indian weddings, and delight his eyes with the fresh beauty of the
+    <i>chinampas</i>,&mdash;wonderful spots of verdure and flowers&mdash;the floating
+    gardens of the ancient Aztecs. Half an hour, or less, in the tram-car takes the
+    traveller to Guadalupe, which may be called the heart of Indian Mexico. There, on the
+    rock of Tepeyac, the Virgin appeared to Juan Diego; there, in the churches, dedicated
+    in honor of that apparition, thousands of indians, from leagues around, gather
+    yearly. On December 12, in the crowded streets of Guadalupe, groups, fantastically
+    garbed as indians, dance in the Virgin's honor, and in their songs and dances, modern
+    though they be, can be found suggestions of the olden time. Now and then, one may
+    witness, what I saw in December, 1895&mdash;a group of indian pilgrims from a distant
+    town, singing and dancing to the Virgin, within the great church itself. And near the
+    high altar, where thick glass plates are set into the floor, letting a dim light into
+    the crypts below, one may see crowds of indians rubbing the smooth surface with their
+    <a name="page396" id="page396"/> diseased parts
+    to effect a cure. On the streets of the capital city, one daily sees bands of pure
+    Otomis in rags and filth, bringing their loads of charcoal and of corn to market.
+    Their ugly dark faces, their strange native dress, their harsh language, make on the
+    stranger an impression not easily forgotten.</p>
+    <p>Reliable figures are wanting as to the number of pure Mexican Indians. If the
+    population of the Republic be estimated at fifteen millions, it should be safe to say
+    that five millions of this number are indians of pure blood, speaking their old
+    language, keeping alive much of the ancient life and thought. In some parts of
+    Mexico, it almost seems as if what white-blood once existed is now breeding out. The
+    indian of Mexico is conservative; he does not want contact with a larger world; his
+    village suffices for his needs; he is ready to pay taxes for the sake of being let
+    alone, to live in peace, after the way his fathers lived. In his bosom there is still
+    hatred of the white man and the <i>mestizo</i>, and distrust of every stranger. The
+    Chamula outbreak in 1868, and the Maya war just ended, are examples of this
+    smouldering hatred. Mexico has a serious problem in its Indians; the solution of the
+    problem has been attempted in various ways, according to whether the population dealt
+    with was Totonac, Yaqui, Maya: it is no small task, to build a nation out of an
+    indian population.</p>
+    <p>Soon after the publication of my "Indians of Southern Mexico," I had the pleasure
+    of presenting a copy of the book to President Diaz, and of looking through its
+    pictures with him. When we came to the general view of Yodocono, and its little lake,
+    tears stood in the old man's eyes as he said, "Sir, that was my mother's birthplace,
+    and in her honor I have established, at my own expense, two schools, one for boys,
+    and one for girls." Looking at the round huts of Chicahuastla, he shivered, and
+    remarked: "Ah, <a name="page397" id="page397"/>
+    sir, but it is cold in Chicahuastla." I replied, "Your Excellency, I see that you
+    have been in Chicahuastla." When he saw the Zapotec types, from the District of
+    Tehuantepec, he said: "They are fine large fellows; they make good soldiers; when I
+    was Governor of Oaxaca, I had a body-guard of them." He then told me of the six
+    orphan boys who, in memory of his body-guard, he had adopted and educated; he told me
+    with pride of the success which the five who still live had made, and of the
+    positions they were filling. When he reached the portrait of the little Mixtec,
+    carrying a sack of corn, who, with pride, had told me, in answer to my question, that
+    his name was Porfirio Diaz, the President of the Republic looked long and earnestly
+    at the picture, and I noticed that, when we turned the pages, his finger marked the
+    spot where the likeness of his name-sake was, and, when the book was finished, before
+    closing it, he turned back again, and looked at the little fellow's face. At the
+    first Otomi portrait, he had said: "Ah, sir, but my schools will change the
+    Otomis."</p>
+    <p>It would be pleasant to have faith in President Diaz' solution of the Otomi
+    problem, but to me it seems doubtful. Of course, I recall with pleasure my visit to
+    the boys' school at San Nicolas Panotla. It was interesting to see those little
+    Tlaxcalan fellows solve problems in alligation and percentage, in bonds and
+    mortgages; but it is doubtful whether any of them, in actual life, will have to deal
+    with blending coffees, or with selling bonds, and cutting coupons. Still, from such
+    indian towns great men have come in the past, and great men will come in the future.
+    Benito Juarez, who laid the foundations on which Diaz has so magnificently built, was
+    a pure-blood Zapotec. From the Aztecs, the Tlaxcalans, Mixtecs, Zapotecs and Mayas,
+    we may hope much in the future. They were races of achievement in the past, and the
+    monuments of their achievement still remain.<a name="page398"
+    id="page398"/> But that the Otomi, the Triqui, or the Mixe, should be
+    made over by the schools is doubtful. Personally, I feel that the prosperity of
+    Mexico rests more upon the indian blood than on any other element of national power.
+    That schools will do much to train the more gifted tribes perhaps is true. But there
+    are indians, and indians, in Mexico.</p>
+    <hr style="width: 65%;" />
+    <a name="page399" id="page399"/>
+    <h2><a name="GLOSSARY_OF_SPANISH_AND_INDIAN_WORDS"
+    id="GLOSSARY_OF_SPANISH_AND_INDIAN_WORDS"></a>GLOSSARY OF SPANISH AND INDIAN
+    WORDS</h2>
+    <ul>
+      <li>abusos. abuses, disturbances.</li>
+      <li>adios. adieu, good-bye.</li>
+      <li>agente. agent.</li>
+      <li>agua. water.</li>
+      <li>agua bendita. blessed water.</li>
+      <li>agua miel. lit. honey water, the unfermented juice of the magu&eacute;y.</li>
+      <li>aguardiente. a spirituous liquor.</li>
+      <li>aguas frescas. refreshing drinks.</li>
+      <li>ahuacate. a fruit, the alligator pear.</li>
+      <li>aje, or axe. an insect; a greasy mass, yielding a lacquer-like lustre.</li>
+      <li>alcalde. a town judge.</li>
+      <li>arbol. tree.</li>
+      <li>arriero. a convoyer of loaded mules or horses.</li>
+      <li>atole. a corn gruel.</li>
+      <li>autorizada. authorized, having authority.</li>
+      <li>axolotl. a water salamander, with peculiar life-history.</li>
+      <li>ayatl, or ayate. a carry-cloth.</li>
+      <li>barranca. a gorge, or gully.</li>
+      <li>bruja. witch.</li>
+      <li>brujer&iacute;a. witchcraft.</li>
+      <li>burro. ass.</li>
+      <li>cabecera. the head-town of a district.</li>
+      <li>cafe. coffee.</li>
+      <li>caiman. a reptile much like an alligator.</li>
+      <li>camar&oacute;n. shrimp.</li>
+      <li>camisa. shirt.</li>
+      <li>cantera, cantero. a water-jar, or pitcher.</li>
+      <li>cargador. carrier.</li>
+      <li>carreta. cart.</li>
+      <li>carretero. a carter.</li>
+      <li>cascar&oacute;n. an eggshell filled with bits of cut paper.</li>
+      <li>catal&aacute;n. a wine, named from a Spanish town.<a name="page400" id="page400"/></li>
+      <li>cenote. a cave with water.</li>
+      <li>centavo. a coin, the one-hundredth part of a peso; a cent.</li>
+      <li>chac mool. a stone figure, found at Chichen Itza, Yucatan.</li>
+      <li>chalupa. a boat-shaped crust with meat or vegetables in it.</li>
+      <li>chamara. a blanket for wearing.</li>
+      <li>champurrado. a mixture, as of atole and chocolate.</li>
+      <li>chapapote. chewing-gum.</li>
+      <li>chicha. an intoxicant made from sugar-cane.</li>
+      <li>chicle. chewing-gum.</li>
+      <li>chinampa. "floating garden," a garden patch.</li>
+      <li>chirimiya. a shrill musical instrument, somewhat like a fife or flageolet.</li>
+      <li>chirimoya. the custard-apple.</li>
+      <li>cigarro. cigarette.</li>
+      <li>cincal&oacute;tl, cincalote. granary.</li>
+      <li>clar&iacute;n. a bird, with clear note.</li>
+      <li>cochero. coachman.</li>
+      <li>color&iacute;n. a tree.</li>
+      <li>comiteco. a spirits made at Comitan.</li>
+      <li>Conquista. Conquest.</li>
+      <li>copal. a gum, much used as incense.</li>
+      <li>coro. loft.</li>
+      <li>corral. an enclosure for animals.</li>
+      <li>costumbre. custom.</li>
+      <li>cot&oacute;n, cotones. a man's upper garment, a sort of poncho.</li>
+      <li>cuartel. barracks.</li>
+      <li>cuezcom&aacute;tl, cuezcomate. granary.</li>
+      <li>cura. parish priest.</li>
+      <li>curato. parish house.</li>
+      <li>danza. dance.</li>
+      <li>doctrina. doctrine, catechism.</li>
+      <li>don. Mr., used only when the Christian name of a person is spoken.</li>
+      <li>dulce. sweet, sweetmeat.</li>
+      <li>dulcero. maker or seller of sweets.</li>
+      <li>dulceria. sweetmeat factory.</li>
+      <li>enagua. woman's skirt.</li>
+      <li>enchilada. a fried tortilla with chili and cheese.</li>
+      <li>feria. fair.</li>
+      <li>fiesta. festival.</li>
+      <li>finca. farm, plantation.</li>
+      <li>firma. signature.<a name="page401" id="page401"/></li>
+      <li>fiscal. fiscal</li>
+      <li>officer,</li>
+      <li>frijol, frijoles. bean, beans,</li>
+      <li>golondrina. swallow,</li>
+      <li>gramatica. grammar.</li>
+      <li>gringo. somewhat derisive term applied to foreigners, especially
+      Americans.</li>
+      <li>guardia. guard.</li>
+      <li>hacienda. a country-place.</li>
+      <li>haciendado, haciendero. the owner of an hacienda.</li>
+      <li>hennequ&iacute;n. a plant producing fibre, sisal hemp.</li>
+      <li>hermita. a retired shrine.</li>
+      <li>herrer&iacute;a. smithy, forge, ironworks.</li>
+      <li>h'men. conjuror.</li>
+      <li>huehuetes. the old ones.</li>
+      <li>huehuetl, huehuete. the ancient upright drum.</li>
+      <li>huerfano. orphan.</li>
+      <li>huip&iacute;l, huipili. a woman's waist garment.</li>
+      <li>huipilili. a woman's waist garment, worn under the huip&iacute;l.</li>
+      <li>idioma. idiom, language.</li>
+      <li>incomunicado. solitary, not allowed communication.</li>
+      <li>itinerario. itinerary.</li>
+      <li>itztli. obsidian.</li>
+      <li>ixtli. fibre from the magu&eacute;y and cactus.</li>
+      <li>jac&aacute;l. a hut.</li>
+      <li>jarabe. a popular dance.</li>
+      <li>j&iacute;cara. a gourd-cup, or vessel.</li>
+      <li>jonote. a tree.</li>
+      <li>Jornada. a day's march.</li>
+      <li>juez. judge.</li>
+      <li>ke'esh. a votive figure.</li>
+      <li>ladino. a mestizo, a person not Indian.</li>
+      <li>ladr&oacute;n, ladrones. thief, thieves.</li>
+      <li>liana. vine.</li>
+      <li>licenciado. lawyer.</li>
+      <li>lima. a fruit, somewhat like an insipid orange.</li>
+      <li>lindas. pretty (girls).</li>
+      <li>llano. a grassy plain.</li>
+      <li>machete. a large knife.</li>
+      <li>maestro. teacher, a master in any trade.</li>
+      <li>magu&eacute;y. a plant, the century plant or agave, yielding pulque.<a name="page402" id="page402"/></li>
+      <li>mai, pelico. tobacco, mixed with chili and lime.</li>
+      <li>malac&aacute;tl, malacate. spindle-whorl.</li>
+      <li>malinche. malinche.</li>
+      <li>mam&eacute;y. a fruit, orange flesh and brown exterior.</li>
+      <li>manta. cotton-cloth, a woman's dress.</li>
+      <li>ma&ntilde;ana. to-morrow.</li>
+      <li>mapachtl. a small animal, perhaps the raccoon or badger.</li>
+      <li>mapaho. beating-sticks, for cleaning cotton.</li>
+      <li>mayores. chiefs, village elders, police.</li>
+      <li>medio. six centavos.</li>
+      <li>meson. a house for travellers.</li>
+      <li>mescal. a spirits, made from an agave.</li>
+      <li>mestizo. a person of mixed blood.</li>
+      <li>metate. stone upon which corn is ground.</li>
+      <li>milagro. miracle.</li>
+      <li>milpa. cornfield.</li>
+      <li>mogote. a mound or tumulus.</li>
+      <li>mole. a stew, highly seasoned with chili.</li>
+      <li>mole prieto. black mole.</li>
+      <li>moral. a tree, mulberry.</li>
+      <li>mozo. a young man, a servant.</li>
+      <li>mudo. mute, dumb.</li>
+      <li>mulada. a mule train.</li>
+      <li>mu&ntilde;eco. doll, figure.</li>
+      <li>municipio. town, town-government, town-house.</li>
+      <li>nacimiento. an arrangement of figures and grotto-work, made at
+      Christmastide.</li>
+      <li>nada. nothing.</li>
+      <li>nagu&aacute;l. conjuror.</li>
+      <li>negrito. (diminutive) negro.</li>
+      <li>nublina. mist, fog.</li>
+      <li>ocote. pine-tree, splinter of pine.</li>
+      <li>otro. other.</li>
+      <li>padre. father, priest.</li>
+      <li>padrecito. priest.</li>
+      <li>pa&iacute;s. country, esp. one's native town.</li>
+      <li>panela. sugar in cake or loaf.</li>
+      <li>papaya. a fruit.</li>
+      <li>pastorela. a drama relative to the Nativity.</li>
+      <li>pastores. shepherds.<a name="page403" id="page403"/></li>
+      <li>patio. inside</li>
+      <li>court of house.</li>
+      <li>pelico, mai. tobacco, with chili and lime.</li>
+      <li>peso. a money denomination, one hundred centavos, one dollar.</li>
+      <li>petate. mat.</li>
+      <li>pinolillo. a species of tick.</li>
+      <li>pinto. a disease, spotted skin.</li>
+      <li>pita. a fibre.</li>
+      <li>pitero. a fifer.</li>
+      <li>pito. fife.</li>
+      <li>plaza. town square.</li>
+      <li>portales. a building with corridor in front.</li>
+      <li>posol, posole. corn prepared to carry on journey, for mixing with water.</li>
+      <li>prefecto. prefect.</li>
+      <li>presidente. president.</li>
+      <li>principales. principal men, councillors.</li>
+      <li>pueblito. small pueblo, village.</li>
+      <li>pulque. an intoxicant, made from magu&eacute;y sap.</li>
+      <li>quichiquemil. a woman's upper garment.</li>
+      <li>rancho. a country-place.</li>
+      <li>ranchito. a small ranch.</li>
+      <li>rebozo. a woman's garment, a wrap or light shawl.</li>
+      <li>regidor. alderman.</li>
+      <li>remedio. remedy.</li>
+      <li>sangre. blood.</li>
+      <li>santo, santito. saint.</li>
+      <li>se&ntilde;or. sir, gentleman.</li>
+      <li>se&ntilde;ora. madam, lady.</li>
+      <li>se&ntilde;orita. Miss, young woman.</li>
+      <li>serape. a blanket, for wearing.</li>
+      <li>sindico. recorder.</li>
+      <li>soltero. an unmarried man.</li>
+      <li>sombrero. hat.</li>
+      <li>subida. ascent.</li>
+      <li>tabla. board.</li>
+      <li>tamales. dumplings of corn-meal.</li>
+      <li>tambour. drum.</li>
+      <li>tatita. papa.</li>
+      <li>tepache. a fermented drink.</li>
+      <li>teponastl, teponaste. the ancient horizontal drum.</li>
+      <li>tienda. store, shop.<a name="page404" id="page404"/></li>
+      <li>tierra caliente. hot country.</li>
+      <li>tigre. tiger, jaguar.</li>
+      <li>tinaja. water-jar.</li>
+      <li>topil. a messenger or police.</li>
+      <li>toro. bull.</li>
+      <li>tortillas. corn-cakes, cooked on a griddle.</li>
+      <li>tortuga. turtle.</li>
+      <li>tsupakwa. dart-thrower.</li>
+      <li>ule. rubber.</li>
+      <li>vaca. cow.</li>
+      <li>v&aacute;monos. come on, we are going.</li>
+      <li>viejos. old.</li>
+      <li>vomito. yellow fever.</li>
+      <li>xalama. a tree.</li>
+      <li>xt&oacute;l, xtoles. a dancer, or dancers (see M&eacute;rida, narrative).</li>
+      <li>zacate, sacate. hay, fodder.</li>
+    </ul>
+
+
+    <a name="page405" id="page405"/>
+    <hr style="width: 65%;" />
+    <h2><a name="ITINERARY" id="ITINERARY"></a>ITINERARY</h2>
+    <p>The expedition of 1896 was preliminary. We went by rail from the City of Mexico to
+    Oaxaca, capital of the state of the same name. Thence, we journeyed by horse through
+    the states of Oaxaca and Chiapas, to the city of Guatemala, entering the Republic of
+    Guatemala at Nenton. The return journey was made by rail to the Pacific port of San
+    Jose, steamer to Salina Cruz, rail to Coatzacoalcos, steamer to Vera Cruz, and rail
+    to the City of Mexico. Only the portion of this journey between Oaxaca and Nenton is
+    here described, the rest not lying in Indian Mexico. The City of Mexico was
+    headquarters for the work in 1897-98. A trip was made by rail from there to Dos Rios,
+    to measure and photograph the Otomis of Huixquilucan, in the state of Mexico. Thence
+    we went to Patzcuaro by rail, and studied the Tarascans in the villages about Lake
+    Patzcuaro, visiting these by canoe-trips. We then made a trip on horseback to Uruapan
+    (then without rail connection), returning by some important indian towns. After
+    returning to Mexico, we visited the states of Tlaxcala and Puebla. In and around the
+    City of Tlaxcala, we secured our Tlaxcalan subjects. At Cuauhtlantzinco, we worked
+    upon Aztecs. Our experiences at this large town of Puebla are not described, as
+    Bandelier has already rendered the place familiar, and we ourselves have written of
+    it elsewhere. With these two peoples, we made our first essays at bust-making. After
+    returning to Mexico, we went by rail, on the Guadalajara branch of the Mexican
+    Central, to Negrete. From there, by coach (there being then no railroad) to Zamora.
+    Thence, we struck, on horseback, through the Tarascan territory, across to Patzcuaro.
+    On the way, we secured our full series of Tarascan busts, at the Once Pueblos. By
+    rail, we went from Patzcuaro to Dos Rios, to secure our lacking busts of Otomis at
+    Huixquilucan. In the second field expedition, January to March 1899, we worked
+    entirely in the state of Oaxaca. At first a trip was made, by horse, from Oaxaca
+    <a name="page406" id="page406"/> into the
+    Mixteca Alta, where Mixtecs and Triquis were studied. Again starting from Oaxaca, we
+    traveled over our old trails of 1896, through the mountains to Tehuantepec, returning
+    by the high-road in common use. Zapotecs were studied at Mitla and Tehuantepec, and
+    the Mixes, Juaves, and Chontals in various towns and villages. The season's work
+    closed by our study, at and near Cuicatlan, of the Cuicatecs. At this town, too, we
+    began to work upon Chinantecs. In the third field expedition, during the early months
+    of 1900, we visited seven populations, making our regular study upon six of them. To
+    fill a week that would otherwise have been lost, we made a pedestrian trip through
+    the interesting indian towns on the slopes of Malintzi. Then, from Cuicatlan as a
+    center, we made two journeys&mdash;one to San Juan Zautla and San Pedro Soochiapan,
+    to examine Chinantecs; the other to Coixtlahuaca, for seeing Chochos. From Cuicatlan,
+    we struck north by rail to San Antonio, and, by coach to Teotitlan del Camino and by
+    horse beyond, penetrated to the great Mazatec town of Huauhtla. Chinantecs, Chochos,
+    and Mazatecs are tribes of Oaxaca. Leaving that state, we traveled by rail to
+    Tulancingo. From there, by coach and on horseback, we visited Otomi, Aztec, Tepehua
+    and Totonac towns in the states of Puebla and Hidalgo. With the field season of 1901,
+    our work in Indian Mexico ended. It was pursued in three separated areas. From the
+    City of Mexico, we went by rail to Tampico. From that point, a journey by canoe and
+    horse enabled us to see the Huaxtecs of the state of Vera Cruz. Returning to Tampico,
+    a trip by steamer across the gulf brought us to Yucatan. Progreso and M&eacute;rida
+    were visited, and our work was done upon the Mayas living near the town of Tekax. A
+    second trip on the gulf brought us to Coatzacoalcos, whence the railroad was used to
+    Tehuantepec and San Geronimo. From the latter point, an ox-cart journey of ten
+    nights, across the states of Oaxaca and Chiapas, brought us to Tuxtla Gutierrez. By
+    horse we continued through Chiapas to El Salto, where we took steamer for Frontera.
+    From there, by steamer to Vera Cruz and then by rail, we traveled to the City of
+    Mexico. Zoques, Tzotzils, Tzendals, and Chols were studied in this portion of the
+    journey.</p>
+    <hr style="width: 65%;" />
+    <a name="page407" id="page407"/>
+    <h2><a name="APPENDIX" id="APPENDIX"></a>APPENDIX</h2>
+    <p>STARR IN OLD MEXICO</p>
+    <p>Oaxaca, Mexico, March 1.&mdash;Prof. Frederick Starr, of the University of
+    Chicago, is deep in the midst of his savages. He is manipulating primitive town
+    governments, wielding the authority of federal and state governments, county police,
+    and that of the clergy as well. He is threatening, cajoling, clapping in jail, when
+    necessary, and in general conquering his series of strange nations. I found him doing
+    all this, and more, in a little native village fifty miles from the city of Oaxaca,
+    Feb. 2nd. The fat little man was complete master of the Zapotec town of Mitla, far
+    distant from the end of the last of the railroads, a town famous for its ruins. He
+    bustled about like a captain in a war haste, dressed in a massive Indian sombrero,
+    from which a white string floated picturesquely behind, a necktie of slim, dusty
+    black, which seemed not to have been unknotted for many a day, a shirt less
+    immaculate than the one he may wear at the entertainment shortly to be given him in
+    London, and no coat. The professor's trousers are not Indian. They are farm trousers,
+    of an original type, with double seat for the saddle.</p>
+    <p>The professor's blood was up. A grand native feast&mdash;in which drunken dances,
+    bull-fights, and a state of accumulated irresponsibility are the rule&mdash;had
+    delayed him three days. The Indians could no more be measured and "busted"&mdash;as
+    the professor calls the making of plaster casts&mdash;than could the liquor they had
+    drunk. After three days of pleading, threatening, and berating, in which orders <a name="page408" id="page408"/> from every government
+    and church official in the country, from lowest to highest, had failed, Prof. Starr
+    seized the black-bearded and wiry president of the town council, the chief potentate
+    of the reeling set, called him a drunken scoundrel, threatened in deep seriousness to
+    imprison every man in the town, and finally won his point&mdash;but not until the
+    feast was done. When feasts are over, the people are kindly, suave, gracious.</p>
+    <p>Then the professor corralled those he wanted. He was to measure for scientific
+    purposes 100 of the Indians, in the order in which they chanced to present
+    themselves. After such wheedling as it must have taken infinite practice to
+    acquire&mdash;pattings of the Zapotec back, hugging of the men, chucking the
+    children, with elaborate explanations&mdash;the thing "took" and the people fell into
+    the spirit of it. The jail was the only accessible building, and was strangely empty.
+    It was of adobe, a jail of one room, with a dirt floor. There were no windows, only
+    the single barred door.</p>
+    <p>From every cane-walled, thatched, tropical hut that helps to make the irregular
+    cluster around the central plaza and its adjoining bull ring they came, if not to be
+    measured, to see. They were driven by the highest of the town authorities&mdash;for
+    every element of the population waited on the bidding of the little sugar-tongued
+    professor from the north&mdash;one by one into the jail, and the rest curiously
+    watched. The measuring was done without undressing, but the "busting" was the point
+    of chief interest. Five representative specimens had been carefully selected for this
+    purpose. They were won slowly, by the glitter of 75 cents of Mexican silver. In some
+    towns, only 50 cents was required, and in others, $1. The smirking Indian, with his
+    wildness hidden away, or only peeping from his eye, entered. He disrobed with no
+    shame. He was put flat on the floor, face down, on a little piece of matting. At this
+    stage some <a name="page409" id="page409"/>
+    objected. Then the Anglo-Saxon was down on the floor, wheedling, talking such
+    sweetness as can be spoken without silliness only in the Spanish tongue.</p>
+    <p>The victim finally consents. Then the Mexican plaster worker, who has followed the
+    caravan from its start, goes to work. He makes a cast of the back of the head and
+    shoulders, and the Indian is turned over, face up. Another cast of the breast and
+    neck and chin is made, and yet another of the front half of the head and the face,
+    with little tubes for breathing sticking through it. The Indian has grunted, snorted,
+    laughed and squirmed, but he has been made to understand that he must be still. That
+    great 75 cents is held always over him, and the thing is accomplished.</p>
+    <p>During all the process, the crowd of Indians about and in the jail was eager-eyed
+    and astonished. The women wear odd woolen, blanket-like skirts of red or black,
+    folded in two great plaits down the front. The dress does not reach the ankles, and
+    the feet are bare. They carry the baby on the back, wound in the rebozo, with its
+    bare legs straddling her and sticking out. The men wear a sandal quite different from
+    the ordinary Mexican footgear.</p>
+    <p>Of the 100 that were to be measured, Jose was one. Jose was of a better family, a
+    character in the town, and proud. He rebelled. This breach of the professor's
+    authority could not be allowed. Jose was summoned by the president of the town, the
+    honeyed, affable "Se&ntilde;or Presidente," the same who had been called the drunken
+    scoundrel, now accommodating, a true and emotional friend. Jose sent a thousand
+    excuses, and finally defiance.</p>
+    <p>"That man," cried the professor, showing his writ of authority from the <i>jefe
+    politico</i> of the district, "I order to be arrested."</p>
+    <p>Jose did not flee. He was found next morning in the bull ring riding a bull. He
+    was arrested by the Chicagoan's <a name="page410"
+    id="page410"/>orders, and taken to jail. He was peremptorily ordered
+    by the professor to appear for the measurement. He escaped, and again defied the
+    powers. He was again caught, and it was explained to him by the president that this
+    man of might from the beyond had sworn to drag Jose with him all the way across this
+    wild country slowly to Tehuantepec, thence back to the city of Oaxaca, where the
+    state authorities would deal most painfully with him. And this, indeed, in mighty
+    manner and impressively, had the "man from the beyond" sworn to do. Jose came and was
+    measured, and I afterward saw him calling to the professor to come and take a jolly
+    drink out of the gourd he was shaking at him, in the manner of a comrade.</p>
+    <p>In the afternoon, the work being done, the civilities and sugared conduct must be
+    continued, with a view to future visits. The professor wanted to enter the church,
+    which, though modern, stands in the middle of one of the mysterious ruins. The church
+    was locked, and the mayor-domo not to be found.</p>
+    <p>"But I must photograph a strange picture you have in there."</p>
+    <p>"The mayor-domo is drunk, at your service, my most excellent friend," replied the
+    president, sympathetically. "I am sorry, but he got under the influence three days
+    ago at the beginning of the feast, and he has slept ever since. Ah, the mayor-domo is
+    sleeping now, my excellent friend, and he has the keys."</p>
+    <p>"You shall send a boy into the tower to ring the bell and wake the mayor-domo,"
+    cried the professor.</p>
+    <p>The crowd sat on the stone steps, the bell was pealed, and at last the church was
+    opened, and the picture photographed.</p>
+    <p>The procession then moved to the top of an ancient pyramid, in which tombs have
+    been opened, and bones and <a name="page411"
+    id="page411"/>gold ornaments found. The professor dashed through all
+    the tunnels, with the government after him, before mounting to the top. On top a
+    strange conversation was held between the professor and the president and secretary.
+    They appealed to this northern man, who seemed to have all earthly authority back of
+    him, to grant them one longed-for boon. Would he not please speak, when he returned
+    to the capital, to the minister of encouragement, that he send them a brass band!
+    They wanted to welcome northern visitors to the ruins with modern music.</p>
+    <p>"You have great power. You need but to ask of those in Mexico and the band will
+    come. Most beloved friend, oh, most excellent professor from the far north, give to
+    us a brass band!" And the professor promised to speak to Minister Leal about it.
+    Then, too, the beastly state government was dragging some of their precious ruins
+    away to put in a museum. Would the professor please have the kindness to stop this?
+    The professor promised to do what he could, and he was hugged and blessed and patted
+    by the simple people.</p>
+    <p>Prof. Starr began his ethnological studies to westward of Oaxaca. Mitla is
+    eastward. In the west, he visited two tribes&mdash;the Mixtecas and the Triquis. The
+    latter are a branch of the former, but much different, living in round bamboo huts,
+    surprisingly like those of some African tribes. He secured two excellent casts of the
+    Triquis, and three of the Mixtecas. He intended to take five of each tribe he
+    visited, but his plaster failed to arrive. He studies the languages, also, as he
+    goes, and finds many varying dialects, from each of which he secures a test
+    vocabulary of 200 words. He is now approaching the Mixes, the "cannibals." All the
+    City of Mexico papers laugh at the idea of his encountering the slightest danger, and
+    the professor himself scoffs at it. He believes some of the Mixes have, within <a name="page412" id="page412"/>forty years, eaten
+    human flesh, but he says he is certain they are harmless now.</p>
+    <p>CHARLES F. EMBREE.<br />
+     [From <i>The Chicago Record</i>: March 24, 1899.]<br />
+    </p>
+    <hr style="width: 65%;" />
+    <a name="page413" id="page413"/>
+    <h2><a name="THE_PURPLE_SPOT_ON_MAYA_BABIES"
+    id="THE_PURPLE_SPOT_ON_MAYA_BABIES"></a>THE PURPLE SPOT ON MAYA BABIES</h2>
+    <p>When I was in Yucatan in 1901 the parish priest of Texax told me that it was said
+    that every pure blood Maya Indian has a violet or purple spot on his back, in the
+    sacral region. He stated that this spot was called by the native name, uits, "bread,"
+    and that it was vulgar or insulting to make reference to it. I at once examined three
+    Mayas of pure blood&mdash;a boy of ten years and two adult males&mdash;but found no
+    trace of such a spot. I concluded that the presence of the spot might be an infantile
+    character, as it is among the Japanese, but at that time I had no opportunity to
+    examine Maya babies.</p>
+    <p>Dr. Baelz, a German physician, who has spent many years in Japan, long ago called
+    attention to the existence of such spots on Japanese infants. The spots described by
+    him were of a blue or purple color, were located upon the back (especially in the
+    sacral region), and were variable in form and size. They were temporary, disappearing
+    at from two to eight years of age. The occurrence of these infantile color blotches
+    was so common in Japan as to be almost characteristic of the race.</p>
+    <p>In time, other students reported similar spots on other Asiatic babies, and on
+    non-Asiatic babies of Mongolian or Mongoliod peoples. Chinese, Annamese, Coreans,
+    Greenland Eskimos, and some Malays are now known to have such spots. Sacral spots
+    have also been reported among Samoans and Hawaiians.</p>
+    <p>Practically, all these people belong to the great yellow race, as defined by De
+    Quatrefages, and are, if not pure <a name="page414"
+    id="page414"/>representatives of that race, mixed bloods, in part, of
+    it. Baelz and some other writers have, therefore, gone so far as to consider the
+    purple sacral spot a mark peculiar to that race, and to believe its occurrence proof
+    of Mongolian origin. They have asked whether the spot occurs among American Indians,
+    and would consider its occurrence evidence of an Asiatic origin for our native
+    tribes. Satisfactory observations had not been made. Baelz himself found two cases
+    among Vancouver Island Indians.</p>
+    <p>In my recent trip to Mexico I planned to look for this spot among several Indian
+    tribes. Out of six populations that I expected to visit I really saw but
+    two&mdash;the Aztecs and the Mayas. I do not believe that the sacral spot exists
+    among Aztecs. I made no search, because Aztec friends, who would be sure to know, all
+    agreed in denying its occurrence. Among the Mayas, the case is different. In the
+    little Maya town of Palenque I examined all the pure blood babies. The back of the
+    first little creature bared for my inspection bore a clearly defined, dark
+    blue-purple spot, just where it might be expected. The spot was almost two inches
+    wide and nearly three-fourths of an inch high. The child was a boy of eight months. A
+    brother, two years old, showed no trace of the spot, but the mother says it was
+    formerly well defined.</p>
+    <p>Every one of the seven pure Maya babies, below ten months old, in the town was
+    purple-spotted. A pair of boy twins, two months old, were marked in precisely the
+    same place with pale blue-purple spots, of the same size and form. In one boy of ten
+    months the spot seemed to be disappearing and was represented by three ill-defined
+    and separated blotches. In the village, there were three babies of suitable age, but
+    of mixed&mdash;Spanish-Maya&mdash;blood; no one of these showed any trace of the
+    colored spot. We may say, then, that in Palenque every Maya baby below ten <a name="page415" id="page415"/>months of age was
+    sacral spotted, and that no Mestizo baby was.</p>
+    <p>Does this prove that the Mayas are Asiatics by ancestry? The daily press asserts
+    that I make that claim; it is mistaken. I am free to say I don't know what to do with
+    my spotted Maya babies. I presume that Baelz will cousin them with his little
+    Japanese.</p>
+    <p>FREDERICK STARR.<br />
+     From <i>The Chicago Tribune</i>: January 11, 1903.<br />
+    </p>
+    <hr style="width: 65%;" />
+    <a name="page416" id="page416"/>
+    <h2><a name="INDEX" id="INDEX"></a>INDEX</h2>
+    <ul>
+      <li>abandoned river course, <a href='#page374'>374</a>.</li>
+      <li>acacia, <a href='#page97'>97</a>, <a href='#page216'>216</a>.</li>
+      <li>Acala, <a href='#page48'>48</a>, <a href='#page361'>361</a>.</li>
+      <li>Agua Bendita (Chiapa), <a href='#page44'>44</a>, <a
+      href='#page348'>348</a>.</li>
+      <li>Agua Bendita (Mex.), <a href='#page64'>64</a>.</li>
+      <li>agua miel, <a href='#page61'>61</a>.</li>
+      <li>aguardiente, <a href='#page255'>255</a>.</li>
+      <li>Aguazotepec, <a href='#page240'>240</a>.</li>
+      <li>aje, 45: insect, <a href='#page46'>46</a>; <a href='#page79'>79</a>.</li>
+      <li>Ajuno, <a href='#page76'>76</a>, <a href='#page84'>84</a>, <a
+      href='#page107'>107</a>.</li>
+      <li>Akxotla, <a href='#page191'>191</a>.</li>
+      <li>alcaldes indios, <a href='#page357'>357</a>.</li>
+      <li>alligators, <a href='#page277'>277</a>, <a href='#page290'>290</a>.</li>
+      <li>Ancona, Bishop, <a href='#page300'>300</a>.</li>
+      <li>antiquities, <a href='#page116'>116</a>, <a href='#page223'>223</a>, <a
+      href='#page230'>230</a>, <a href='#page239'>239</a>, <a href='#page288'>288</a>, <a
+      href='#page345'>345</a>.</li>
+      <li>ant&mdash;foraging, <a href='#page289'>289</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;honey, <a
+      href='#page190'>190</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>apparition of the Virgin, <a href='#page395'>395</a>.</li>
+      <li>Aranza, <a href='#page82'>82</a>.</li>
+      <li>arbol huerfano, <a href='#page196'>196</a>.</li>
+      <li>arriero&mdash;tardy, <a href='#page271'>271</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;unreliable, <a
+      href='#page358'>358</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;abandons us, <a
+      href='#page385'>385</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>Arroyo&mdash;Jefe, <a href='#page247'>247</a>.</li>
+      <li>Atla, <a href='#page245'>245</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">carry-sacks, <a
+      href='#page256'>256</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">costume, <a
+      href='#page256'>256</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">witchcraft, <a
+      href='#page256'>256</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>Atlihuitzia&mdash;Santa Maria, <a href='#page195'>195</a>.</li>
+      <li>axolotl, <a href='#page64'>64</a>.</li>
+      <li>ayate, <a href='#page58'>58</a>, <a href='#page267'>267</a>, <a
+      href='#page271'>271</a>.</li>
+      <li>Ayutla, <a href='#page23'>23</a>, <a href='#page149'>149</a>.</li>
+      <li>Aztec, <a href='#page242'>242</a>, <a href='#page279'>279</a>, <a
+      href='#page281'>281</a>, <a href='#page283'>283</a>, <a href='#page285'>285</a>, <a
+      href='#page397'>397</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">breakfast, <a
+      href='#page196'>196</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>babies&mdash;carrying, <a href='#page267'>267</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;care of, <a
+      href='#page57'>57</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>bamboo, <a href='#page289'>289</a>.</li>
+      <li>band&mdash;Huauhtla, <a href='#page237'>237</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;honors us, <a
+      href='#page124'>124</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>bandolier, <a href='#page318'>318</a>.</li>
+      <li>Barela, Sr. and Sra., <a href='#page189'>189</a>.</li>
+      <li>bark-paper, <a href='#page245'>245</a>, <a href='#page246'>246</a>, <a
+      href='#page268'>268</a>.</li>
+      <li>Baron, <a href='#page293'>293</a>, <a href='#page320'>320</a>.</li>
+      <li>barranca, <a href='#page190'>190</a>,<a href='#page191'>191</a>, <a
+      href='#page214'>214</a>, <a href='#page280'>280</a>, <a
+      href='#page363'>363</a>.</li>
+      <li>Barrios&mdash;Pedro, <a href='#page230'>230</a>.</li>
+      <li>basalt, <a href='#page196'>196</a>, <a href='#page249'>249</a>.</li>
+      <li>battle of flowers, <a href='#page321'>321</a>.</li>
+      <li>begonia, <a href='#page246'>246</a>.</li>
+      <li>Belen, <a href='#page194'>194</a>.</li>
+      <li>bells&mdash;pottery, <a href='#page112'>112</a>.</li>
+      <li>Benito Juarez&mdash;steamer, <a href='#page293'>293</a>.</li>
+      <li>Bernal Diaz, <a href='#page91'>91</a>.</li>
+      <li>bishop&mdash;M&eacute;rida, <a href='#page300'>300</a>.</li>
+      <li>blackflies, <a href='#page343'>343</a>.</li>
+      <li>Blanco&mdash;Juan, <a href='#page303'>303</a>, <a href='#page316'>316</a>.<a name="page417" id="page417"/></li>
+      <li>blessing&mdash;a mother's, <a href='#page111'>111</a>.</li>
+      <li>bloom&mdash;trees, <a href='#page340'>340</a>, <a href='#page364'>364</a>.</li>
+      <li>Boca del Rio&mdash;rancho, <a href='#page168'>168</a>.</li>
+      <li>books&mdash;Mixe, <a href='#page155'>155</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;Mixtec, <a
+      href='#page141'>141</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">Zapotec, <a
+      href='#page165'>165</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>bowls&mdash;calabash, <a href='#page353'>353</a>.</li>
+      <li>boxes&mdash;scarce, <a href='#page370'>370</a>.</li>
+      <li>boy&mdash;work of, <a href='#page35'>35</a>, <a href='#page37'>37</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;and iguana, <a
+      href='#page54'>54</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>breech-clout, <a href='#page344'>344</a>.</li>
+      <li>bridge&mdash;covered, <a href='#page77'>77</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;of vines, <a href='#page32'>32</a>, <a
+      href='#page207'>207</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>Brinton, <a href='#page374'>374</a>.</li>
+      <li>bromelias, <a href='#page22'>22</a>, <a href='#page27'>27</a>, <a
+      href='#page126'>126</a>, <a href='#page154'>154</a>, <a href='#page199'>199</a>, <a
+      href='#page207'>207</a>, <a href='#page219'>219</a>, <a
+      href='#page232'>232</a>.</li>
+      <li>bruher&iacute;a, <a href='#page246'>246</a>, <a href='#page256'>256</a>, <a
+      href='#page376'>376</a>.</li>
+      <li>bull met, <a href='#page214'>214</a>.</li>
+      <li>burning fields, <a href='#page374'>374</a>, <a href='#page376'>376</a>.</li>
+      <li>bust-making, <a href='#page65'>65</a>, <a href='#page99'>99</a>, <a
+      href='#page104'>104</a>, <a href='#page146'>146</a>, <a href='#page234'>234</a>, <a
+      href='#page382'>382</a>.</li>
+      <li>de Butrie&mdash;M. and Mme., <a href='#page235'>235</a>, <a
+      href='#page236'>236</a>, <a href='#page237'>237</a>.</li>
+      <li>cactus, <a href='#page8'>8</a>, <a href='#page11'>11</a>, <a
+      href='#page181'>181</a>, <a href='#page182'>182</a>, <a href='#page217'>217</a>, <a
+      href='#page329'>329</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;pitahaya, <a
+      href='#page96'>96</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>Cahuantzi&mdash;Gov. Prospero, <a href='#page85'>85</a>, <a
+      href='#page94'>94</a>, <a href='#page193'>193</a>.</li>
+      <li>caimans, <a href='#page290'>290</a>.</li>
+      <li>cairn, <a href='#page218'>218</a>.</li>
+      <li>calabashes, <a href='#page314'>314</a>.</li>
+      <li>caladium, <a href='#page201'>201</a>, <a href='#page249'>249</a>.</li>
+      <li>calandria, <a href='#page334'>334</a>.</li>
+      <li>Calistro&mdash;Antonio, <a href='#page61'>61</a>.</li>
+      <li>camalpa, <a href='#page191'>191</a>.</li>
+      <li>camar&oacute;n, <a href='#page276'>276</a>.</li>
+      <li>Camotlan, <a href='#page32'>32</a>, <a href='#page155'>155</a>.</li>
+      <li>camp&mdash;traveller's, <a href='#page178'>178</a>.</li>
+      <li>Campeche, <a href='#page306'>306</a>, <a href='#page355'>355</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;banks, <a
+      href='#page295'>295</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>canal, <a href='#page291'>291</a>.</li>
+      <li>Cancuc, <a href='#page365'>365</a>, <a href='#page366'>366</a>, <a
+      href='#page371'>371</a>, <a href='#page374'>374</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;outbreak, <a
+      href='#page374'>374</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;reception, <a
+      href='#page375'>375</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;music, <a
+      href='#page376'>376</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;dress, <a
+      href='#page377'>377</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>Candaleria&mdash;Maria, <a href='#page374'>374</a>.</li>
+      <li>canoes, <a href='#page275'>275</a>, <a href='#page289'>289</a>, <a
+      href='#page360'>360</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;Tarascan, <a
+      href='#page68'>68</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;travel, <a
+      href='#page277'>277</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;empty, <a
+      href='#page292'>292</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>Canton&mdash;Gov. Francisco, <a href='#page300'>300</a>, <a
+      href='#page301'>301</a>, <a href='#page355'>355</a>.</li>
+      <li>Capacuaro, <a href='#page78'>78</a>, <a href='#page80'>80</a>.</li>
+      <li>Carapan, <a href='#page104'>104</a>.</li>
+      <li>Carizal, <a href='#page342'>342</a>.</li>
+      <li>carnival, <a href='#page239'>239</a>, <a href='#page317'>317</a>, <a
+      href='#page318'>318</a>, <a href='#page321'>321</a>, <a
+      href='#page324'>324</a>.</li>
+      <li>Carrera, <a href='#page52'>52</a>.<a name="page418"
+      id="page418"/></li>
+      <li>carretero, <a href='#page333'>333</a>, <a href='#page334'>334</a>, <a
+      href='#page342'>342</a>, <a href='#page343'>343</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;camping, <a
+      href='#page338'>338</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>carriers, <a href='#page53'>53</a>, <a href='#page54'>54</a>.</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;small, but devoted, <a
+      href='#page384'>384</a>,<a href='#page386'>386</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;trouble, <a
+      href='#page206'>206</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>carry-frame, <a href='#page243'>243</a>.</li>
+      <li>carts, <a href='#page95'>95</a>, <a href='#page333'>333</a>.</li>
+      <li>cart-road, <a href='#page45'>45</a>, <a href='#page48'>48</a>, <a
+      href='#page139'>139</a>, <a href='#page342'>342</a>.</li>
+      <li>Carvajal, <a href='#page179'>179</a>.</li>
+      <li>cascades, <a href='#page262'>262</a>.</li>
+      <li>cascarones, <a href='#page239'>239</a>.</li>
+      <li>Castle, Dr., <a href='#page164'>164</a>, <a href='#page165'>165</a>, <a
+      href='#page170'>170</a>, <a href='#page328'>328</a>, <a
+      href='#page329'>329</a>.</li>
+      <li>Castolo&mdash;Zapotec boy, <a href='#page35'>35</a>, <a
+      href='#page159'>159</a>.</li>
+      <li>cattle, among Juaves, <a href='#page168'>168</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;loading, <a
+      href='#page294'>294</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">driving, <a
+      href='#page348'>348</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>cave, near Comitan, <a href='#page50'>50</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;witch's, near Atla, <a
+      href='#page256'>256</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;near Pantepec, <a
+      href='#page269'>269</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">near Tekax, <a href='#page313'>313</a>, <a
+      href='#page314'>314</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>cave formations, <a href='#page315'>315</a>.</li>
+      <li>cave&mdash;hat-makers, <a href='#page224'>224</a>.</li>
+      <li>celebration&mdash;St. Martin's eve, <a href='#page62'>62</a>.</li>
+      <li>cemetery&mdash;visits to, <a href='#page165'>165</a>.</li>
+      <li>Cempoalteca&mdash;family, <a href='#page92'>92</a>.</li>
+      <li>cempoalxochil, <a href='#page257'>257</a>.</li>
+      <li>cenotes, <a href='#page297'>297</a>, <a href='#page316'>316</a>.</li>
+      <li>chacalacca, <a href='#page334'>334</a>, <a href='#page343'>343</a>.</li>
+      <li>chacmool, <a href='#page319'>319</a>.</li>
+      <li>chalcedony, <a href='#page38'>38</a>, <a href='#page139'>139</a>.</li>
+      <li>chamara, <a href='#page366'>366</a>, <a href='#page367'>367</a>.</li>
+      <li>champurado, <a href='#page196'>196</a>.</li>
+      <li>Chamula, <a href='#page45'>45</a>, <a href='#page365'>365</a>, <a
+      href='#page366'>366</a>, <a href='#page367'>367</a>, <a
+      href='#page371'>371</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;outbreak, <a href='#page366'>366</a>, <a
+      href='#page396'>396</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>chapapote, <a href='#page288'>288</a>, <a href='#page291'>291</a>, <a
+      href='#page292'>292</a>.</li>
+      <li>chavacanes, <a href='#page287'>287</a>.</li>
+      <li>Checheb, <a href='#page366'>366</a>.</li>
+      <li>Cheran, <a href='#page78'>78</a>, <a href='#page82'>82</a>, <a
+      href='#page106'>106</a>.</li>
+      <li>chert, <a href='#page129'>129</a>.</li>
+      <li>Chiapa, <a href='#page45'>45</a>, <a href='#page353'>353</a>, <a
+      href='#page360'>360</a>, <a href='#page361'>361</a>, <a
+      href='#page364'>364</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;lacquer, <a
+      href='#page45'>45</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>Chiapanecs, <a href='#page361'>361</a>.</li>
+      <li>Chiapas, <a href='#page293'>293</a>, <a href='#page340'>340</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;Indians, <a
+      href='#page44'>44</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>Chicago Record, <a href='#page405'>405</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;Tribune, <a
+      href='#page411'>411</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>Chicahuastla, <a href='#page131'>131</a>, <a href='#page396'>396</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;an afternoon in, <a
+      href='#page133'>133</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>chicha, <a href='#page377'>377</a>.</li>
+      <li>Chichen-Itza, <a href='#page318'>318</a>.</li>
+      <li>Chila, <a href='#page7'>7</a>, <a href='#page10'>10</a>.</li>
+      <li>Chilchota, <a href='#page98'>98</a>.</li>
+      <li>child&mdash;deserted, <a href='#page136'>136</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;grateful, <a
+      href='#page164'>164</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>Chilon, <a href='#page379'>379</a>.</li>
+      <li>chinampas, <a href='#page395'>395</a>.</li>
+      <li>Chinantecs, <a href='#page210'>210</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;land of, <a
+      href='#page212'>212</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>chirimiya&mdash;Mitla, <a href='#page18'>18</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;Los Reyes, <a
+      href='#page91'>91</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>Chochos, <a href='#page218'>218</a>, <a href='#page226'>226</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">hats, <a href='#page224'>224</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>Chols, <a href='#page380'>380</a>, <a href='#page389'>389</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;dress, <a
+      href='#page389'>389</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;laborers, <a
+      href='#page384'>384</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;type, <a
+      href='#page389'>389</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>Cholula, <a href='#page108'>108</a>.</li>
+      <li>Chontals, <a href='#page173'>173</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;type, <a
+      href='#page175'>175</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>Christmas celebration, <a href='#page71'>71</a>.</li>
+      <li>church of the thieves, <a href='#page63'>63</a>.<a
+      name="page419" id="page419"/></li>
+      <li>la Cienega, <a href='#page349'>349</a>.</li>
+      <li>cincalote, <a href='#page60'>60</a>.</li>
+      <li>circus, <a href='#page42'>42</a>.</li>
+      <li>Citala, <a href='#page378'>378</a>.</li>
+      <li>Citlaltepec, <a href='#page277'>277</a>, <a href='#page279'>279</a>.</li>
+      <li>clays, <a href='#page128'>128</a>.</li>
+      <li>cleanliness of person, <a href='#page297'>297</a>.</li>
+      <li>climate&mdash;results, <a href='#page306'>306</a>.</li>
+      <li>cloud-effects, <a href='#page196'>196</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;lake, <a
+      href='#page26'>26</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;cataract, <a
+      href='#page28'>28</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>coach&mdash;unreliable, <a href='#page228'>228</a>, <a
+      href='#page229'>229</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;well-loaded, <a
+      href='#page315'>315</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;fictitious, <a
+      href='#page331'>331</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>Coatlan, <a href='#page34'>34</a>, <a href='#page157'>157</a>.</li>
+      <li>Coatzacoalcos, <a href='#page293'>293</a>, <a href='#page325'>325</a>, <a
+      href='#page326'>326</a>, <a href='#page331'>331</a>, <a href='#page351'>351</a>, <a
+      href='#page393'>393</a>.</li>
+      <li>cochero&mdash;troublesome, <a href='#page242'>242</a>.</li>
+      <li>cockroaches, <a href='#page378'>378</a>.</li>
+      <li>cocoa palms, <a href='#page169'>169</a>, <a href='#page181'>181</a>.</li>
+      <li>cocoles, <a href='#page287'>287</a>.</li>
+      <li>coffee, <a href='#page155'>155</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;plantation, <a
+      href='#page387'>387</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;essence, <a
+      href='#page204'>204</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>Coixtlahuaca, <a href='#page220'>220</a>, <a href='#page224'>224</a>, <a
+      href='#page226'>226</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;hat-making, <a
+      href='#page224'>224</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;celebration, <a
+      href='#page224'>224</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>color-massing of flowers, <a href='#page212'>212</a>.</li>
+      <li>color&iacute;n tree, <a href='#page268'>268</a>.</li>
+      <li>comales, <a href='#page127'>127</a>.</li>
+      <li>Comitan, <a href='#page51'>51</a>.</li>
+      <li>comiteco, <a href='#page51'>51</a>.</li>
+      <li>condolence&mdash;visit, <a href='#page174'>174</a>.</li>
+      <li>conglomerate, <a href='#page181'>181</a>, <a href='#page182'>182</a>, <a
+      href='#page377'>377</a>.</li>
+      <li>Conkal, <a href='#page297'>297</a>.</li>
+      <li>contract-labor system, <a href='#page384'>384</a>, <a
+      href='#page388'>388</a>.</li>
+      <li>convent-church, <a href='#page140'>140</a>.</li>
+      <li>cook-house, <a href='#page88'>88</a>.</li>
+      <li>cooking, <a href='#page339'>339</a>.</li>
+      <li>copal, <a href='#page252'>252</a>.</li>
+      <li>Cordoba woman, <a href='#page217'>217</a>, <a href='#page227'>227</a>.</li>
+      <li>Cordova&mdash;Javier, <a href='#page128'>128</a>, <a
+      href='#page135'>135</a>.</li>
+      <li>corpse rejected, <a href='#page189'>189</a>.</li>
+      <li>Cortez' trail, <a href='#page196'>196</a>.</li>
+      <li>cosmopolitan group, <a href='#page325'>325</a>.</li>
+      <li>costumbre-annual,&mdash;Otomi, <a href='#page250'>250</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;Totonac, <a
+      href='#page252'>252</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>costume, <a href='#page242'>242</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;Juave, <a
+      href='#page169'>169</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;Mazateco, <a
+      href='#page221'>221</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;Mixtec, <a
+      href='#page127'>127</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;Otomi, <a href='#page58'>58</a>, <a
+      href='#page258'>258</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;Totonac, <a
+      href='#page252'>252</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;Tzotzil, <a
+      href='#page49'>49</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;Zapotec, <a href='#page40'>40</a>, <a
+      href='#page177'>177</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>cotones&mdash;see costume.</li>
+      <li>cotton&mdash;beating, <a href='#page202'>202</a>.</li>
+      <li>counterfeiters in Tlaxcala, <a href='#page94'>94</a>.</li>
+      <li>couple&mdash;mysterious, <a href='#page354'>354</a>.</li>
+      <li>Coyotepec, <a href='#page113'>113</a>.</li>
+      <li>crabs, <a href='#page326'>326</a>.</li>
+      <li>Cristobal martyr boy, <a href='#page195'>195</a>.</li>
+      <li>crosses, <a href='#page269'>269</a>.</li>
+      <li>crucified child, <a href='#page366'>366</a>.</li>
+      <li>la Cruzada, <a href='#page387'>387</a>, <a href='#page391'>391</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;unsettled conditions, <a
+      href='#page391'>391</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>Cuaquitepec, <a href='#page377'>377</a>, <a href='#page378'>378</a>.<a name="page420" id="page420"/></li>
+      <li>Cuauhtepec, <a href='#page251'>251</a>.</li>
+      <li>cuezcomate, <a href='#page88'>88</a>, <a href='#page190'>190</a>.</li>
+      <li>Cuezcomate&mdash;the, <a href='#page189'>189</a>.</li>
+      <li>Cuicatlan, <a href='#page181'>181</a>, <a href='#page198'>198</a>, <a
+      href='#page215'>215</a>, <a href='#page227'>227</a>.</li>
+      <li>Culin&mdash;Mr., <a href='#page263'>263</a>, <a href='#page269'>269</a>.</li>
+      <li>Cuquila, <a href='#page129'>129</a>, <a href='#page137'>137</a>.</li>
+      <li>customs-house, <a href='#page295'>295</a>.</li>
+      <li>cycle superstition, <a href='#page139'>139</a>.</li>
+      <li>cypress, <a href='#page139'>139</a>.</li>
+      <li>dance wands, <a href='#page257'>257</a>.</li>
+      <li>dancers, <a href='#page317'>317</a>, <a href='#page325'>325</a>.</li>
+      <li>danza, <a href='#page265'>265</a>, <a href='#page268'>268</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;de la Conquista, <a
+      href='#page30'>30</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;de los Negros, <a
+      href='#page287'>287</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;de los mestizos, <a
+      href='#page325'>325</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>date palm, <a href='#page126'>126</a>.</li>
+      <li>deaf-mutism, <a href='#page48'>48</a>, <a href='#page49'>49</a>, <a
+      href='#page79'>79</a>, <a href='#page205'>205</a>.</li>
+      <li>December, <a href='#page12'>12</a>, <a href='#page395'>395</a>.</li>
+      <li>deer, <a href='#page43'>43</a>.</li>
+      <li>deformity, <a href='#page155'>155</a>.</li>
+      <li>Diaz&mdash;President Porfirio, ix, <a href='#page396'>396</a>, <a
+      href='#page397'>397</a>.</li>
+      <li>Diego&mdash;Juan, <a href='#page395'>395</a>.</li>
+      <li>disaster to plates, <a href='#page365'>365</a>.</li>
+      <li>distance marks, <a href='#page309'>309</a>.</li>
+      <li>distilleries, <a href='#page51'>51</a>, <a href='#page315'>315</a>.</li>
+      <li>disturbance&mdash;village, <a href='#page202'>202</a>.</li>
+      <li>Do&ntilde;a Cecilia, <a href='#page293'>293</a>.</li>
+      <li>Dos Rios, <a href='#page56'>56</a>.</li>
+      <li>doves, <a href='#page219'>219</a>, <a href='#page288'>288</a>.</li>
+      <li>dragon-tree, <a href='#page246'>246</a>.</li>
+      <li>drinking, <a href='#page207'>207</a>.</li>
+      <li>drunken officials, <a href='#page24'>24</a>, <a href='#page25'>25</a>, <a
+      href='#page29'>29</a>, <a href='#page71'>71</a>, <a href='#page72'>72</a>, <a
+      href='#page80'>80</a>, <a href='#page144'>144</a>, <a href='#page201'>201</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;visitor, <a
+      href='#page335'>335</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>ducks, <a href='#page278'>278</a>.</li>
+      <li>dulces, <a href='#page314'>314</a>.</li>
+      <li>dynamiting streams, <a href='#page251'>251</a>, <a
+      href='#page360'>360</a>.</li>
+      <li>eagle, <a href='#page166'>166</a>, <a href='#page219'>219</a>.</li>
+      <li>earthquake, <a href='#page137'>137</a>, <a href='#page138'>138</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;Tehuantepec, <a
+      href='#page161'>161</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">Papalo, <a href='#page183'>183</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>echo, <a href='#page90'>90</a>.</li>
+      <li>eggs, <a href='#page159'>159</a>.</li>
+      <li>Ellsworth Mr., <a href='#page385'>385</a>, <a href='#page392'>392</a>.</li>
+      <li>Embree Mr., <a href='#page410'>410</a>.</li>
+      <li>enagua, see costume.</li>
+      <li>enchiladas, <a href='#page286'>286</a>.</li>
+      <li>Esperanza mule-line, <a href='#page7'>7</a>.</li>
+      <li>Espindola, Sr., <a href='#page331'>331</a>, <a href='#page332'>332</a>, <a
+      href='#page333'>333</a>.</li>
+      <li>Espinola&mdash;Macario, <a href='#page120'>120</a>.</li>
+      <li>Etla, <a href='#page116'>116</a>.</li>
+      <li>Expeditions, vii.</li>
+      <li>Eurosa&mdash;Sr., <a href='#page246'>246</a>.</li>
+      <li>Eustasio, our carretero, <a href='#page333'>333</a>, <a
+      href='#page334'>334</a>, <a href='#page336'>336</a>, <a href='#page340'>340</a>, <a
+      href='#page341'>341</a>, <a href='#page344'>344</a>, <a href='#page347'>347</a>, <a
+      href='#page348'>348</a>,</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;"><a href='#page349'>349</a>, <a
+      href='#page352'>352</a>, <a href='#page379'>379</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>excitement&mdash;political, <a href='#page191'>191</a>, <a
+      href='#page193'>193</a>.</li>
+      <li>exorbitant charges, <a href='#page8'>8</a>, <a href='#page9'>9</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;Ixcuintepec, <a
+      href='#page33'>33</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;Xalapa, <a
+      href='#page174'>174</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;Tequixistlan, <a
+      href='#page175'>175</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;Tulancingo, etc., <a
+      href='#page241'>241</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;Huachinango, <a
+      href='#page243'>243</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;Huehuetla, <a
+      href='#page271'>271</a>.</span><a name="page421"
+      id="page421"/></li>
+      <li>faja&mdash;see costume.</li>
+      <li>fans used in dance, <a href='#page318'>318</a>.</li>
+      <li>feather-work, <a href='#page82'>82</a>.</li>
+      <li>Feb. <a href='#page5'>5</a>, celebration, <a href='#page224'>224</a>.</li>
+      <li>female beauty, <a href='#page352'>352</a>.</li>
+      <li>feria at Comitan, <a href='#page51'>51</a>.</li>
+      <li>ferns, <a href='#page23'>23</a>, <a href='#page27'>27</a>, <a
+      href='#page44'>44</a>, <a href='#page154'>154</a>, <a href='#page199'>199</a>, <a
+      href='#page207'>207</a>, <a href='#page249'>249</a>.</li>
+      <li>Fernandez&mdash;Leandro, x.</li>
+      <li>Fernandez&mdash;Sr., <a href='#page320'>320</a>, <a
+      href='#page323'>323</a>.</li>
+      <li>fever, <a href='#page151'>151</a>, <a href='#page387'>387</a>.</li>
+      <li>fiesta&mdash;San Marcos, <a href='#page31'>31</a>.</li>
+      <li>fishes, <a href='#page317'>317</a>.</li>
+      <li>fishing&mdash;night, <a href='#page265'>265</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;handnets, <a
+      href='#page266'>266</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">dynamite, <a
+      href='#page360'>360</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>flight of the Virgin, <a href='#page196'>196</a>.</li>
+      <li>floats in procession, <a href='#page319'>319</a>.</li>
+      <li>flora, <a href='#page201'>201</a>, <a href='#page249'>249</a>, <a
+      href='#page262'>262</a>, <a href='#page296'>296</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;contrast on two slopes, <a
+      href='#page23'>23</a>, <a href='#page154'>154</a>, <a href='#page199'>199</a>, <a
+      href='#page232'>232</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;curious assemblage, <a
+      href='#page118'>118</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;land of Mixes, <a
+      href='#page22'>22</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;tropical, <a
+      href='#page387'>387</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>flowering shrubs, <a href='#page22'>22</a>.</li>
+      <li>fog, <a href='#page27'>27</a>, <a href='#page126'>126</a>, <a
+      href='#page132'>132</a>.</li>
+      <li>forest fire, <a href='#page34'>34</a>.</li>
+      <li>Frank, <a href='#page189'>189</a>, <a href='#page192'>192</a>, <a
+      href='#page200'>200</a>, <a href='#page209'>209</a>, <a href='#page213'>213</a>, <a
+      href='#page216'>216</a>.</li>
+      <li>Frontera, <a href='#page393'>393</a>.</li>
+      <li>frost, <a href='#page245'>245</a>, <a href='#page251'>251</a>.</li>
+      <li>fugitive Jefe, <a href='#page136'>136</a>.</li>
+      <li>funeral&mdash;an interrupted, <a href='#page125'>125</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;timely, <a
+      href='#page180'>180</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;procession, <a href='#page199'>199</a>,
+      <a href='#page332'>332</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>Gillow&mdash;Archbishop Eulogio, <a href='#page3'>3</a>, 6</li>
+      <li>glossary, <a href='#page399'>399</a>.</li>
+      <li>god-house, <a href='#page88'>88</a>.</li>
+      <li>Godinez&mdash;Ramon, viii, <a href='#page200'>200</a>, <a
+      href='#page209'>209</a>, <a href='#page272'>272</a>, <a href='#page273'>273</a>, <a
+      href='#page276'>276</a>, <a href='#page308'>308</a>, <a href='#page313'>313</a>, <a
+      href='#page319'>319</a>,</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;"><a href='#page324'>324</a>, <a
+      href='#page332'>332</a>, <a href='#page335'>335</a>, <a href='#page349'>349</a>, <a
+      href='#page382'>382</a>, <a href='#page383'>383</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>goitre, <a href='#page48'>48</a>, <a href='#page49'>49</a>, <a
+      href='#page79'>79</a>, <a href='#page155'>155</a>.</li>
+      <li>gold coins worn, <a href='#page40'>40</a>, <a href='#page52'>52</a>, <a
+      href='#page353'>353</a>.</li>
+      <li>Gonzales&mdash;Manuel, viii, <a href='#page108'>108</a>-<a
+      href='#page111'>111</a>, <a href='#page115'>115</a>, <a href='#page156'>156</a>, <a
+      href='#page166'>166</a>, <a href='#page171'>171</a>, <a href='#page184'>184</a>, <a
+      href='#page189'>189</a>,</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;"><a href='#page194'>194</a>, <a
+      href='#page198'>198</a>, <a href='#page200'>200</a>, <a href='#page209'>209</a>, <a
+      href='#page210'>210</a>, <a href='#page241'>241</a>, <a href='#page273'>273</a>, <a
+      href='#page276'>276</a>, <a href='#page289'>289</a>, <a href='#page290'>290</a>, <a
+      href='#page324'>324</a>, <a href='#page330'>330</a>, <a
+      href='#page334'>334</a>,</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;"><a href='#page348'>348</a>, <a
+      href='#page349'>349</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>Gonzales&mdash;Gov. Martin, vii, <a href='#page114'>114</a>.</li>
+      <li>Grabic&mdash;Louis, viii, <a href='#page189'>189</a>, <a
+      href='#page192'>192</a>, <a href='#page198'>198</a>, <a href='#page200'>200</a>, <a
+      href='#page209'>209</a>, <a href='#page210'>210</a>, <a href='#page241'>241</a>, <a
+      href='#page273'>273</a>, <a href='#page276'>276</a>,</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;"><a href='#page306'>306</a>, <a
+      href='#page313'>313</a>, <a href='#page318'>318</a>, <a href='#page329'>329</a>, <a
+      href='#page348'>348</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>granary, <a href='#page60'>60</a>, <a href='#page88'>88</a>, <a
+      href='#page190'>190</a>.</li>
+      <li>granite, <a href='#page38'>38</a>.</li>
+      <li>greetings&mdash;New Year, <a href='#page114'>114</a>.</li>
+      <li>grippe, <a href='#page186'>186</a>.</li>
+      <li>Guadalupe, <a href='#page395'>395</a>.</li>
+      <li>Guadalupe, our cook at Tancoco, <a href='#page284'>284</a>, <a
+      href='#page286'>286</a>.</li>
+      <li>guamara, <a href='#page280'>280</a>.</li>
+      <li>Guatemala, <a href='#page43'>43</a>, <a href='#page52'>52</a>, <a
+      href='#page340'>340</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;money, <a
+      href='#page51'>51</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>Gutierrez Zamora, <a href='#page281'>281</a>.</li>
+      <li>Guvi&ntilde;o, <a href='#page41'>41</a>, <a href='#page333'>333</a>.</li>
+      <li>Guzman&mdash;Gamboa, <a href='#page301'>301</a>.<a
+      name="page422" id="page422"/></li>
+      <li>hairless dog, <a href='#page330'>330</a>.</li>
+      <li>hares, <a href='#page171'>171</a>.</li>
+      <li>hats, <a href='#page127'>127</a>, <a href='#page224'>224</a>, <a
+      href='#page284'>284</a>.</li>
+      <li>hauling timber, <a href='#page95'>95</a>.</li>
+      <li>hennequ&iacute;n, <a href='#page296'>296</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;treatment, <a
+      href='#page309'>309</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>Herman, <a href='#page1'>1</a>, <a href='#page5'>5</a>, <a
+      href='#page9'>9</a>.</li>
+      <li>herons, <a href='#page278'>278</a>, <a href='#page291'>291</a>.</li>
+      <li>Hidalgo&mdash;steamer, <a href='#page325'>325</a>.</li>
+      <li>high-road, <a href='#page40'>40</a>, <a href='#page173'>173</a>.</li>
+      <li>h'men, <a href='#page307'>307</a>, <a href='#page310'>310</a>.</li>
+      <li>honey-wine, <a href='#page191'>191</a>.</li>
+      <li>horse falls, <a href='#page218'>218</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;ill, <a href='#page115'>115</a>, <a
+      href='#page178'>178</a>, <a href='#page179'>179</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>hot springs, <a href='#page96'>96</a>.</li>
+      <li>houses&mdash;Aztec, <a href='#page283'>283</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;Huaxtec, <a
+      href='#page284'>284</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;Tarascan, <a
+      href='#page97'>97</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;Totonac, <a
+      href='#page268'>268</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>Hrdlicka&mdash;his work, v.</li>
+      <li>Huachinango, <a href='#page242'>242</a>.</li>
+      <li>Huaclilla, <a href='#page119'>119</a>.</li>
+      <li>Huancito, <a href='#page99'>99</a>.</li>
+      <li>Huauhtla&mdash;view, <a href='#page232'>232</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;town, <a
+      href='#page233'>233</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;trade, <a
+      href='#page235'>235</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;labor ideas, <a
+      href='#page235'>235</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>Huautla, <a href='#page218'>218</a>.</li>
+      <li>Huaxteca verucruzana, <a href='#page274'>274</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;potosina, <a
+      href='#page274'>274</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>Huaxtecs, <a href='#page261'>261</a>, <a href='#page274'>274</a>, <a
+      href='#page279'>279</a>, <a href='#page281'>281</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;character, <a
+      href='#page285'>285</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;type, <a
+      href='#page286'>286</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>huehuetes=los viejos, <a href='#page243'>243</a>.</li>
+      <li>huehuetl, <a href='#page91'>91</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;(wrongly so-called), <a
+      href='#page287'>287</a>, <a href='#page318'>318</a>, <a href='#page358'>358</a>, <a
+      href='#page376'>376</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>Huehuetla, <a href='#page247'>247</a>, <a href='#page261'>261</a>, <a
+      href='#page263'>263</a>.</li>
+      <li>Huejutla, <a href='#page283'>283</a>.</li>
+      <li>Huilotepec, <a href='#page166'>166</a>, <a href='#page328'>328</a>, <a
+      href='#page330'>330</a>, <a href='#page331'>331</a>.</li>
+      <li>huip&iacute;l, huipili, see costume.</li>
+      <li>huitzatl, <a href='#page191'>191</a>.</li>
+      <li>Huixquilucan, <a href='#page56'>56</a>, <a href='#page59'>59</a>, <a
+      href='#page245'>245</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;thieves, <a
+      href='#page63'>63</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>Huixtan, <a href='#page366'>366</a>.</li>
+      <li>Humboldt&mdash;Alexander, at Tule, <a href='#page16'>16</a>.</li>
+      <li>husband&mdash;devoted, <a href='#page186'>186</a>.</li>
+      <li>husk-stacks, <a href='#page60'>60</a>.</li>
+      <li>Hyde, Dr. George B., <a href='#page15'>15</a>.</li>
+      <li>idols, <a href='#page253'>253</a>.</li>
+      <li>Ignacio&mdash;boy at Chilchota, <a href='#page102'>102</a>.</li>
+      <li>iguana, <a href='#page54'>54</a>, <a href='#page327'>327</a>.</li>
+      <li>imbecility, <a href='#page48'>48</a>, <a href='#page205'>205</a>.</li>
+      <li>incense, <a href='#page368'>368</a>.</li>
+      <li>indian government, <a href='#page49'>49</a>, <a href='#page357'>357</a>.</li>
+      <li>Indian Mexico, v. <a href='#page396'>396</a>.</li>
+      <li>injured carter, <a href='#page336'>336</a>.</li>
+      <li>interpreter&mdash;false, <a href='#page383'>383</a>.</li>
+      <li>irrigation, <a href='#page96'>96</a>.</li>
+      <li>Irvine, Captain, <a href='#page294'>294</a>.</li>
+      <li>Isidro&mdash;uncle, <a href='#page193'>193</a>.</li>
+      <li>Itztlis, <a href='#page240'>240</a>.</li>
+      <li>Ixcotla, <a href='#page193'>193</a>.</li>
+      <li>Ixcoyotla (bark paper), <a href='#page268'>268</a>.</li>
+      <li>Ixcuintepec, <a href='#page33'>33</a>, <a href='#page156'>156</a>, <a
+      href='#page157'>157</a>.</li>
+      <li>Ixhuatlan, <a href='#page338'>338</a>, <a href='#page340'>340</a>.<a name="page423" id="page423"/></li>
+      <li>Ixtaltepec, <a href='#page333'>333</a>.</li>
+      <li>Ixtapa, <a href='#page363'>363</a>, <a href='#page373'>373</a>.</li>
+      <li>ixtli, <a href='#page58'>58</a>, <a href='#page59'>59</a>.</li>
+      <li>Ixtacalco, <a href='#page395'>395</a>.</li>
+      <li>Ixtapalapa, <a href='#page395'>395</a>.</li>
+      <li>Jacona, <a href='#page98'>98</a>.</li>
+      <li>jail&mdash;San Cristobal, <a href='#page367'>367</a>.</li>
+      <li>Janicho, <a href='#page74'>74</a>.</li>
+      <li>Japanese, <a href='#page41'>41</a>.</li>
+      <li>javali, <a href='#page334'>334</a>.</li>
+      <li>jefe politico&mdash;drunk, <a href='#page328'>328</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;inefficient, <a href='#page182'>182</a>,
+      <a href='#page185'>185</a>, <a href='#page198'>198</a>, <a
+      href='#page216'>216</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;his relation to his people,
+      vii;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;as peacemaker, <a
+      href='#page353'>353</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;of Tuxtla Gutierrez, <a
+      href='#page356'>356</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;of Tulancingo&mdash;natural son of, <a
+      href='#page247'>247</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>Jiquipilas, <a href='#page43'>43</a>, <a href='#page349'>349</a>.</li>
+      <li>jonote, <a href='#page246'>246</a>, <a href='#page269'>269</a>.</li>
+      <li>Jornada, <a href='#page338'>338</a>.</li>
+      <li>Juanico, <a href='#page179'>179</a>.</li>
+      <li>Juarez&mdash;President Benito, <a href='#page397'>397</a>.</li>
+      <li>Juaves, <a href='#page164'>164</a>, <a href='#page165'>165</a>, <a
+      href='#page168'>168</a>, <a href='#page331'>331</a>, <a href='#page337'>337</a>, <a
+      href='#page338'>338</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;type, <a
+      href='#page169'>169</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;night-watch, <a
+      href='#page170'>170</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;singing, <a
+      href='#page171'>171</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>Juchitan, <a href='#page41'>41</a>, <a href='#page161'>161</a>, <a
+      href='#page333'>333</a>, <a href='#page338'>338</a>, <a
+      href='#page343'>343</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;trader, <a
+      href='#page170'>170</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>juiles, <a href='#page395'>395</a>.</li>
+      <li>Juquila (Mixe), <a href='#page29'>29</a>, <a href='#page151'>151</a>.</li>
+      <li>Juxtlahuaca&mdash;Jefe of, <a href='#page136'>136</a>.</li>
+      <li>Kan&mdash;Modesto, <a href='#page312'>312</a>.</li>
+      <li>ke'esh, <a href='#page305'>305</a>.</li>
+      <li>kingfisher, <a href='#page291'>291</a>.</li>
+      <li>labor congress, <a href='#page45'>45</a>.</li>
+      <li>laborers for Yucatan, <a href='#page294'>294</a>.</li>
+      <li>lacquer&mdash;Chiapa, <a href='#page45'>45</a>, <a
+      href='#page361'>361</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;Uruapang.</span></li>
+      <li>lagoons, <a href='#page276'>276</a>, <a href='#page277'>277</a>, <a
+      href='#page290'>290</a>, <a href='#page336'>336</a>.</li>
+      <li>Lake Chapala, <a href='#page68'>68</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;Patzcuaro, <a href='#page68'>68</a>, <a
+      href='#page76'>76</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>landslide, <a href='#page181'>181</a>.</li>
+      <li>Lang,&mdash;Charles B., viii, <a href='#page115'>115</a>, <a
+      href='#page179'>179</a>, <a href='#page184'>184</a>.</li>
+      <li>leaf-water, <a href='#page193'>193</a>.</li>
+      <li>Leal&mdash;Manuel, Fernandez, ix.</li>
+      <li>Leandro, secretario Tamalin, <a href='#page287'>287</a>.</li>
+      <li>Leon&mdash;Governor Francisco, <a href='#page45'>45</a>, <a
+      href='#page342'>342</a>.</li>
+      <li>Leyra&mdash;Pablo, <a href='#page246'>246</a>, <a href='#page260'>260</a>, <a
+      href='#page263'>263</a>, <a href='#page271'>271</a>.</li>
+      <li>libation, <a href='#page255'>255</a>.</li>
+      <li>lightning, <a href='#page183'>183</a>.</li>
+      <li>limestone, <a href='#page18'>18</a>, <a href='#page44'>44</a>, <a
+      href='#page50'>50</a>, <a href='#page52'>52</a>, <a href='#page126'>126</a>, <a
+      href='#page217'>217</a>, <a href='#page249'>249</a>, <a href='#page262'>262</a>, <a
+      href='#page296'>296</a>, <a href='#page306'>306</a>, <a href='#page314'>314</a>, <a
+      href='#page363'>363</a>,</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;"><a href='#page364'>364</a>, <a
+      href='#page373'>373</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;erosion, <a
+      href='#page118'>118</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;hills, <a
+      href='#page219'>219</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>llano, <a href='#page278'>278</a>, <a href='#page281'>281</a>, <a
+      href='#page341'>341</a>, <a href='#page363'>363</a>.</li>
+      <li>la Llave, <a href='#page277'>277</a>, <a href='#page278'>278</a>.</li>
+      <li>Lopez&mdash;Lieut.-Governor, <a href='#page351'>351</a>, <a
+      href='#page381'>381</a>.</li>
+      <li>lost at night, <a href='#page167'>167</a>.</li>
+      <li>Lumholtz&mdash;Charles, v., <a href='#page79'>79</a>, <a href='#page80'>80</a>,
+      <a href='#page83'>83</a>.</li>
+      <li>Lux&mdash;Ernst, vii, <a href='#page3'>3</a>, <a href='#page10'>10</a>, <a
+      href='#page14'>14</a>, <a href='#page159'>159</a>.</li>
+      <li>lycopods, <a href='#page154'>154</a>, <a href='#page199'>199</a>.<a name="page424" id="page424"/></li>
+      <li>macaws, <a href='#page4'>4</a>, <a href='#page340'>340</a>.</li>
+      <li>Macuilapa, <a href='#page345'>345</a>.</li>
+      <li>Magdalena de los comales, <a href='#page127'>127</a>.</li>
+      <li>magu&eacute;y, <a href='#page60'>60</a>, <a href='#page119'>119</a>.</li>
+      <li>mai, <a href='#page367'>367</a>.</li>
+      <li>malacates, <a href='#page59'>59</a>.</li>
+      <li>Malintzi, <a href='#page188'>188</a>, <a href='#page189'>189</a>.</li>
+      <li>mangroves, <a href='#page290'>290</a>.</li>
+      <li>mantas, <a href='#page128'>128</a>, <a href='#page148'>148</a>.</li>
+      <li>Manuel, our arriero, <a href='#page218'>218</a>, <a
+      href='#page219'>219</a>.</li>
+      <li>mapa, <a href='#page236'>236</a>, <a href='#page330'>330</a>.</li>
+      <li>mapachtli, <a href='#page329'>329</a>.</li>
+      <li>mapaho, <a href='#page202'>202</a>, <a href='#page207'>207</a>.</li>
+      <li>Marcelo&mdash;Alejandro, <a href='#page279'>279</a>.</li>
+      <li>Maria as a female name, <a href='#page56'>56</a>.</li>
+      <li>marimba, <a href='#page42'>42</a>, <a href='#page346'>346</a>.</li>
+      <li>Mariano, our mozo, <a href='#page115'>115</a>, <a href='#page119'>119</a>, <a
+      href='#page156'>156</a>.</li>
+      <li>market&mdash;Tehuantepec, <a href='#page162'>162</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;Oaxaca, <a
+      href='#page112'>112</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>Martinez&mdash;Quirino, <a href='#page249'>249</a>.</li>
+      <li>Martinez&mdash;Silvano, <a href='#page78'>78</a>, <a href='#page80'>80</a>, <a
+      href='#page83'>83</a>.</li>
+      <li>maskers, <a href='#page71'>71</a>, <a href='#page240'>240</a>, <a
+      href='#page243'>243</a>.</li>
+      <li>Mayas, <a href='#page297'>297</a>, <a href='#page304'>304</a>, <a
+      href='#page396'>396</a>, <a href='#page397'>397</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;stubbornness, <a
+      href='#page312'>312</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>Mazatecs&mdash;costume, <a href='#page234'>234</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;houses, <a
+      href='#page233'>233</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>measuring&mdash;Mitla, <a href='#page146'>146</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;Ayutla, <a
+      href='#page149'>149</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>Medellin, <a href='#page14'>14</a>.</li>
+      <li>medical practice, <a href='#page36'>36</a>.</li>
+      <li>Mendieta, <a href='#page195'>195</a>.</li>
+      <li>Mercado&mdash;Governor Aristeo, <a href='#page78'>78</a>.</li>
+      <li>M&eacute;rida, <a href='#page295'>295</a>, <a href='#page297'>297</a>, <a
+      href='#page301'>301</a>, <a href='#page315'>315</a>, <a
+      href='#page355'>355</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;expensive living, <a
+      href='#page298'>298</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;carnival, <a href='#page318'>318</a>, <a
+      href='#page321'>321</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>mesquite, <a href='#page97'>97</a>.</li>
+      <li>Mexicalcingo, <a href='#page395'>395</a>.</li>
+      <li>Mexico&mdash;steamer, <a href='#page393'>393</a>, <a
+      href='#page394'>394</a>.</li>
+      <li>miraculous cross, <a href='#page6'>6</a>.</li>
+      <li>mist, <a href='#page22'>22</a>, <a href='#page27'>27</a>.</li>
+      <li>Mitla&mdash;ruins, <a href='#page4'>4</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;Mixes seen at, <a
+      href='#page13'>13</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;festival, <a
+      href='#page17'>17</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;fiesta, <a
+      href='#page142'>142</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;work at, <a
+      href='#page144'>144</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;ruins, <a
+      href='#page148'>148</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>Mixes, <a href='#page112'>112</a>, <a href='#page398'>398</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;first veiw of, <a
+      href='#page13'>13</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;tragedy, <a
+      href='#page18'>18</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;land of, <a
+      href='#page22'>22</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;life, <a
+      href='#page23'>23</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;roads, <a
+      href='#page31'>31</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>Mixtec, <a href='#page115'>115</a>, <a href='#page139'>139</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;boy, <a
+      href='#page397'>397</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;language, <a
+      href='#page140'>140</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;planter, <a
+      href='#page204'>204</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>mogote, <a href='#page78'>78</a>, <a href='#page81'>81</a>.</li>
+      <li>mole, <a href='#page222'>222</a>.</li>
+      <li>money&mdash;Guatemalan, <a href='#page51'>51</a>.</li>
+      <li>monkey's comb, <a href='#page340'>340</a>.</li>
+      <li>Montezuma, <a href='#page250'>250</a>, <a href='#page260'>260</a>.</li>
+      <li>moon influences young, <a href='#page217'>217</a>.</li>
+      <li>moonstone, <a href='#page64'>64</a>.</li>
+      <li>Mora&mdash;Se&ntilde;ora, <a href='#page278'>278</a>.</li>
+      <li>moral=mulberry, <a href='#page246'>246</a>, <a href='#page259'>259</a>.</li>
+      <li>Morrison&mdash;Stanton, <a href='#page389'>389</a>.</li>
+      <li>mosquitoes, <a href='#page289'>289</a>.</li>
+      <li>moss, <a href='#page273'>273</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;crimson, <a
+      href='#page214'>214</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;gray, <a href='#page232'>232</a>, <a
+      href='#page277'>277</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">yellow, <a href='#page199'>199</a>, <a
+      href='#page214'>214</a>.</span><a name="page425"
+      id="page425"/></li>
+      <li>mounds, <a href='#page116'>116</a>.</li>
+      <li>moving stone, <a href='#page349'>349</a>.</li>
+      <li>mulada, <a href='#page387'>387</a>.</li>
+      <li>mule&mdash;purchase, <a href='#page15'>15</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;accident, <a
+      href='#page33'>33</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;trouble by, <a
+      href='#page44'>44</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;trouble with, <a
+      href='#page52'>52</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;gives out, <a
+      href='#page53'>53</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;reported dead, <a
+      href='#page117'>117</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>muleteer&mdash;affectionate, <a href='#page179'>179</a>.</li>
+      <li>mu&ntilde;ecos, <a href='#page246'>246</a>, <a href='#page250'>250</a>, <a
+      href='#page258'>258</a>, <a href='#page261'>261</a>, <a href='#page268'>268</a>, <a
+      href='#page269'>269</a>.</li>
+      <li>Murcio&mdash;Don, <a href='#page369'>369</a>.</li>
+      <li>Murcio&mdash;Guillermo, <a href='#page129'>129</a>, <a href='#page131'>131</a>,
+      <a href='#page136'>136</a>.</li>
+      <li>Museo Yucateco, <a href='#page301'>301</a>.</li>
+      <li>music&mdash;of the Candelaria, <a href='#page24'>24</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;at Los Reyes, <a
+      href='#page91'>91</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>Nabor&mdash;Don, <a href='#page98'>98</a>.</li>
+      <li>nacimiento, <a href='#page195'>195</a>.</li>
+      <li>nagu&aacute;l, <a href='#page166'>166</a>.</li>
+      <li>names of one river, <a href='#page251'>251</a>.</li>
+      <li>Negrete, <a href='#page95'>95</a>.</li>
+      <li>los negritos, <a href='#page82'>82</a>.</li>
+      <li>Nehuatzen, <a href='#page84'>84</a>.</li>
+      <li>Nenton, <a href='#page49'>49</a>, <a href='#page52'>52</a>.</li>
+      <li>New Year&mdash;celebration, <a href='#page82'>82</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;gifts, <a
+      href='#page339'>339</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>night-blindness, <a href='#page164'>164</a>.</li>
+      <li>night-travel, <a href='#page172'>172</a>.</li>
+      <li>night-watch, <a href='#page170'>170</a>.</li>
+      <li>Nochixtlan, <a href='#page120'>120</a>.</li>
+      <li>norther, <a href='#page21'>21</a>, <a href='#page22'>22</a>, <a
+      href='#page33'>33</a>, <a href='#page158'>158</a>, <a href='#page294'>294</a>, <a
+      href='#page326'>326</a>, <a href='#page327'>327</a>, <a
+      href='#page393'>393</a>.</li>
+      <li>nublina, <a href='#page232'>232</a>, <a href='#page233'>233</a>, <a
+      href='#page261'>261</a>, <a href='#page272'>272</a>.</li>
+      <li>Oaxaca, <a href='#page4'>4</a>, <a href='#page6'>6</a>, <a
+      href='#page15'>15</a>, <a href='#page112'>112</a>.</li>
+      <li>obsidian, <a href='#page240'>240</a>.</li>
+      <li>ocellated turkey, <a href='#page318'>318</a>.</li>
+      <li>Ocosingo, <a href='#page375'>375</a>.</li>
+      <li>Ocotopec (Mixe), <a href='#page153'>153</a>, <a href='#page154'>154</a>,</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;(Mixtec), <a
+      href='#page112'>112</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>oleander, <a href='#page174'>174</a>.</li>
+      <li>Once Pueblos, <a href='#page98'>98</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;ride through, <a
+      href='#page102'>102</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>operation proposed, <a href='#page136'>136</a>.</li>
+      <li>orchids, <a href='#page23'>23</a>, <a href='#page27'>27</a>, <a
+      href='#page44'>44</a>, <a href='#page126'>126</a>, <a href='#page154'>154</a>, <a
+      href='#page199'>199</a>, <a href='#page201'>201</a>, <a href='#page207'>207</a>, <a
+      href='#page212'>212</a>, <a href='#page232'>232</a>, <a
+      href='#page248'>248</a>.</li>
+      <li>organo cactus, <a href='#page18'>18</a>.</li>
+      <li>Orozco y Berra, <a href='#page131'>131</a>, <a href='#page245'>245</a>, <a
+      href='#page264'>264</a>.</li>
+      <li>Otomis, <a href='#page56'>56</a>, <a href='#page242'>242</a>, <a
+      href='#page261'>261</a>, <a href='#page397'>397</a>, <a
+      href='#page398'>398</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;female type, 57:</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;costume, <a
+      href='#page58'>58</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;male types, <a
+      href='#page62'>62</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>ox-cart&mdash;travel, <a href='#page334'>334</a>, <a href='#page336'>336</a>,
+      <a href='#page337'>337</a>, <a href='#page338'>338</a>, <a
+      href='#page340'>340</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;accident, <a
+      href='#page341'>341</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>ox played out, <a href='#page347'>347</a>.</li>
+      <li>Ozuluama, <a href='#page274'>274</a>, <a href='#page278'>278</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;Jefe, of <a
+      href='#page276'>276</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>Pacheco&mdash;Anselmo, viii, <a href='#page115'>115</a>, <a
+      href='#page168'>168</a>, <a href='#page184'>184</a>.</li>
+      <li>Pacific, <a href='#page37'>37</a>, <a href='#page43'>43</a>, <a
+      href='#page112'>112</a>, <a href='#page132'>132</a>, <a href='#page160'>160</a>, <a
+      href='#page165'>165</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;coast&mdash;yellow fever, <a
+      href='#page329'>329</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>Padre&mdash;the, his story, <a href='#page1'>1</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;at Chila, <a
+      href='#page10'>10</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;at Medellin, <a
+      href='#page14'>14</a>.</span><a name="page426"
+      id="page426"/></li>
+      <li>paganism surviving, <a href='#page254'>254</a>, <a href='#page269'>269</a>, <a
+      href='#page305'>305</a>, <a href='#page307'>307</a>.</li>
+      <li>pahuatl, <a href='#page245'>245</a>.</li>
+      <li>Pahuatlan, <a href='#page242'>242</a>, <a href='#page244'>244</a>.</li>
+      <li>Pahuatlan River, <a href='#page242'>242</a>.</li>
+      <li>Palacios&mdash;Conrado, <a href='#page351'>351</a>.</li>
+      <li>Palenque, <a href='#page377'>377</a>.</li>
+      <li>palms, <a href='#page277'>277</a>, <a href='#page278'>278</a>, <a
+      href='#page296'>296</a>.</li>
+      <li>Pantepec, <a href='#page247'>247</a>, <a href='#page265'>265</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">costume, <a
+      href='#page267'>267</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;houses, <a
+      href='#page268'>268</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;women, <a
+      href='#page267'>267</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>Panuco, <a href='#page283'>283</a>.</li>
+      <li>Panuco River, <a href='#page274'>274</a>.</li>
+      <li>Papalo, <a href='#page182'>182</a>, <a href='#page198'>198</a>, <a
+      href='#page214'>214</a>.</li>
+      <li>papaya, <a href='#page309'>309</a>.</li>
+      <li>parasitic fig, <a href='#page340'>340</a>.</li>
+      <li>el Parian, <a href='#page118'>118</a>.</li>
+      <li>Parracho, <a href='#page81'>81</a>.</li>
+      <li>parrots, <a href='#page41'>41</a>, <a href='#page166'>166</a>, <a
+      href='#page262'>262</a>, <a href='#page334'>334</a>.</li>
+      <li>Paso Real, <a href='#page288'>288</a>, <a href='#page289'>289</a>.</li>
+      <li>pastores, <a href='#page72'>72</a>.</li>
+      <li>Patzcuaro, <a href='#page84'>84</a>, <a href='#page107'>107</a>.</li>
+      <li>pea-flower, <a href='#page201'>201</a>.</li>
+      <li>Pearson Company, <a href='#page326'>326</a>.</li>
+      <li>pebbles wedged by torrent, <a href='#page266'>266</a>.</li>
+      <li>pelico, <a href='#page367'>367</a>.</li>
+      <li>pemol, <a href='#page287'>287</a>.</li>
+      <li>peonage, <a href='#page45'>45</a>.</li>
+      <li>Peru tree&mdash;belief, <a href='#page194'>194</a>.</li>
+      <li>piano, <a href='#page208'>208</a>.</li>
+      <li>Pichataro, <a href='#page84'>84</a>, <a href='#page106'>106</a>.</li>
+      <li>pigeons, <a href='#page219'>219</a>.</li>
+      <li>pigs, <a href='#page377'>377</a>.</li>
+      <li>pilgrimage, <a href='#page48'>48</a>.</li>
+      <li>Pimentel&mdash;Governor, <a href='#page351'>351</a>.</li>
+      <li>pineapples, <a href='#page361'>361</a>.</li>
+      <li>pines, <a href='#page128'>128</a>, <a href='#page182'>182</a>, <a
+      href='#page371'>371</a>.</li>
+      <li>pinguicula, <a href='#page154'>154</a>.</li>
+      <li>pinolillos, <a href='#page347'>347</a>.</li>
+      <li>los Pinos, <a href='#page344'>344</a>, <a href='#page345'>345</a>.</li>
+      <li>pinto, <a href='#page47'>47</a>, <a href='#page332'>332</a>, <a
+      href='#page353'>353</a>, <a href='#page361'>361</a>.</li>
+      <li>pitahaya (cactus), <a href='#page96'>96</a>, <a href='#page216'>216</a>.</li>
+      <li>pito, <a href='#page287'>287</a>, <a href='#page358'>358</a>, <a
+      href='#page377'>377</a>.</li>
+      <li>plaster prepared, <a href='#page135'>135</a>.</li>
+      <li>le Plongeon&mdash;Dr. A., <a href='#page301'>301</a>.</li>
+      <li>polydactyly, <a href='#page205'>205</a>.</li>
+      <li>Ponce; Padre, <a href='#page70'>70</a>, <a href='#page71'>71</a>, <a
+      href='#page72'>72</a>, <a href='#page73'>73</a>.</li>
+      <li>population of Mexico, v.</li>
+      <li>Porfiria, Aztec cook, <a href='#page286'>286</a>.</li>
+      <li>posole, <a href='#page343'>343</a>, <a href='#page379'>379</a>.</li>
+      <li>pottery, <a href='#page102'>102</a>, <a href='#page112'>112</a>, <a
+      href='#page127'>127</a>, <a href='#page137'>137</a>, <a href='#page332'>332</a>, <a
+      href='#page339'>339</a>.</li>
+      <li>pouch&mdash;netted, <a href='#page367'>367</a>.</li>
+      <li>Powell&mdash;William D., viii, <a href='#page56'>56</a>.</li>
+      <li>predictions dire, <a href='#page374'>374</a>.</li>
+      <li>presidente&mdash;sleepy, <a href='#page267'>267</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;Zautla, <a
+      href='#page201'>201</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>priest&mdash;drunken, <a href='#page145'>145</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;ignorant, <a
+      href='#page4'>4</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">active, <a href='#page234'>234</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;gifts to, <a
+      href='#page123'>123</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;reception of, <a
+      href='#page124'>124</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>priestess&mdash;pagan, <a href='#page254'>254</a>.</li>
+      <li>prisoners, <a href='#page368'>368</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;of state, <a
+      href='#page354'>354</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>private cart, <a href='#page345'>345</a>.<a
+      name="page427" id="page427"/></li>
+      <li>Progress, <a href='#page295'>295</a>, <a href='#page299'>299</a>, <a
+      href='#page320'>320</a>, <a href='#page324'>324</a>.</li>
+      <li>Puebla, <a href='#page283'>283</a>, <a href='#page300'>300</a>, <a
+      href='#page330'>330</a>.</li>
+      <li>Pueblo Viejo, <a href='#page274'>274</a>, <a href='#page275'>275</a>.</li>
+      <li>pulque, <a href='#page61'>61</a>, <a href='#page119'>119</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;country, <a
+      href='#page240'>240</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>puma, <a href='#page41'>41</a>.</li>
+      <li>pumice, <a href='#page128'>128</a>.</li>
+      <li>pygmy statue, <a href='#page57'>57</a>.</li>
+      <li>pyramid, <a href='#page303'>303</a>, <a href='#page362'>362</a>.</li>
+      <li>quail, <a href='#page306'>306</a>.</li>
+      <li>quarrel adjusted, <a href='#page354'>354</a>.</li>
+      <li>quartz, <a href='#page18'>18</a>.</li>
+      <li>Quechol&mdash;Romualdo, <a href='#page188'>188</a>, <a href='#page189'>189</a>,
+      <a href='#page191'>191</a>, <a href='#page192'>192</a>, <a href='#page194'>194</a>,
+      <a href='#page196'>196</a>.</li>
+      <li>Quezaltepec, <a href='#page31'>31</a>, 155</li>
+      <li>quichiquemil, see costume.</li>
+      <li>Quiero&mdash;Se&ntilde;or, <a href='#page13'>13</a>, <a
+      href='#page17'>17</a>.</li>
+      <li>Quiroga, <a href='#page69'>69</a>, <a href='#page70'>70</a>.</li>
+      <li>railroad&mdash;Yucatecan, <a href='#page296'>296</a>, <a
+      href='#page303'>303</a>.</li>
+      <li>rain ceremonials, <a href='#page271'>271</a>.</li>
+      <li>rain-god, <a href='#page6'>6</a>.</li>
+      <li>rattle, <a href='#page318'>318</a>.</li>
+      <li>Rau&mdash;Enrique, <a href='#page385'>385</a>, <a href='#page386'>386</a>, <a
+      href='#page390'>390</a>.</li>
+      <li>rebozos (Parracho), <a href='#page81'>81</a>.</li>
+      <li>regidor perplexed, <a href='#page162'>162</a>.</li>
+      <li>resting at summit, <a href='#page373'>373</a>.</li>
+      <li>los Reyes, <a href='#page90'>90</a>.</li>
+      <li>rheumatism cure, <a href='#page330'>330</a>.</li>
+      <li>rhododendron, <a href='#page22'>22</a>.</li>
+      <li>ridge in Yucatan, <a href='#page306'>306</a>.</li>
+      <li>la Riviera, <a href='#page291'>291</a>.</li>
+      <li>road ("rio blanca"), <a href='#page219'>219</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;dilapidated, <a
+      href='#page241'>241</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>roads&mdash;mixe, <a href='#page156'>156</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">Zapotec, <a
+      href='#page177'>177</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>Robinson, A.A., ix.</li>
+      <li>robbery, <a href='#page63'>63</a>.</li>
+      <li>rock-impressions, <a href='#page196'>196</a>.</li>
+      <li>Rodriguez; Governor Pedro L., <a href='#page247'>247</a>.</li>
+      <li>round houses, <a href='#page131'>131</a>.</li>
+      <li>ruins (Tecomavaca), <a href='#page186'>186</a>.</li>
+      <li>Sabina, <a href='#page84'>84</a>, <a href='#page106'>106</a>.</li>
+      <li>sacrifice, <a href='#page252'>252</a>, <a href='#page254'>254</a>.</li>
+      <li>salt, <a href='#page373'>373</a>.</li>
+      <li>el Salto, <a href='#page381'>381</a>, <a href='#page389'>389</a>, <a
+      href='#page391'>391</a>.</li>
+      <li>San Antonio, <a href='#page49'>49</a>.</li>
+      <li>San Antonio, <a href='#page228'>228</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;excitement at, <a
+      href='#page231'>231</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>San Bartolo (Hacienda), <a href='#page19'>19</a>.</li>
+      <li>San Bartolo (Hidalgo), <a href='#page261'>261</a>, <a
+      href='#page271'>271</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;market, <a
+      href='#page262'>262</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>San Bartolo (Mixtec), <a href='#page126'>126</a>.</li>
+      <li>San Bartolo (Zapotec), <a href='#page176'>176</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;costume, <a
+      href='#page177'>177</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>San Bartolome (Tzotzil), <a href='#page49'>49</a>, <a
+      href='#page366'>366</a>.</li>
+      <li>San Bernardino, <a href='#page232'>232</a>.</li>
+      <li>San Blas, <a href='#page164'>164</a>.</li>
+      <li>San Carlos, <a href='#page152'>152</a>, <a href='#page177'>177</a>.</li>
+      <li>San Cristobal (Chiapas), <a href='#page364'>364</a>, <a
+      href='#page365'>365</a>, <a href='#page385'>385</a>.<a
+      name="page428" id="page428"/></li>
+      <li>San Estevan, <a href='#page88'>88</a>.</li>
+      <li>San Francisco, <a href='#page191'>191</a>.</li>
+      <li>San Geronimo (Mazatec), <a href='#page232'>232</a>.</li>
+      <li>San Geronimo (Huaxtec), <a href='#page288'>288</a>.</li>
+      <li>San Geronimo (Zapotec), <a href='#page331'>331</a>, <a
+      href='#page332'>332</a>.</li>
+      <li>San Gregorio, <a href='#page245'>245</a>, <a href='#page268'>268</a>.</li>
+      <li>San Juan (Yucatan), <a href='#page308'>308</a>, <a
+      href='#page309'>309</a>.</li>
+      <li>San Lorenzo; <a href='#page14'>14</a>, <a href='#page18'>18</a>.</li>
+      <li>San Lucas, <a href='#page232'>232</a>, <a href='#page235'>235</a>.</li>
+      <li>San Mateo del Mar, <a href='#page168'>168</a>, <a href='#page334'>334</a>.</li>
+      <li>San Miguel, <a href='#page34'>34</a>, <a href='#page157'>157</a>.</li>
+      <li>San Miguel (Chiapas), <a href='#page344'>344</a>, <a
+      href='#page345'>345</a>.</li>
+      <li>San Nicolas, <a href='#page260'>260</a>.</li>
+      <li>San Nicolas Panotla, <a href='#page92'>92</a>, <a href='#page397'>397</a>.</li>
+      <li>San Pablito, <a href='#page246'>246</a>, <a href='#page259'>259</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;witchcraft, <a
+      href='#page257'>257</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;paper, <a
+      href='#page259'>259</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>San Pablo el grande, <a href='#page258'>258</a>, <a
+      href='#page261'>261</a>.</li>
+      <li>San Pedrito, <a href='#page119'>119</a>.</li>
+      <li>San Pedro, <a href='#page190'>190</a>.</li>
+      <li>San Pedro Soochiapan, <a href='#page207'>207</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;town-house, <a
+      href='#page208'>208</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;public service, <a
+      href='#page209'>209</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">houses, <a href='#page212'>212</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>San Sebastian, <a href='#page364'>364</a>.</li>
+      <li>Sanchez&mdash;Padre, <a href='#page364'>364</a>.</li>
+      <li>sandstone, <a href='#page374'>374</a>, <a href='#page377'>377</a>.</li>
+      <li>sand dollars, <a href='#page327'>327</a>.</li>
+      <li>sandunga (song), <a href='#page330'>330</a>.</li>
+      <li>Santa Ana, <a href='#page188'>188</a>.</li>
+      <li>Santa Anita, <a href='#page395'>395</a>.</li>
+      <li>Santa Fe de la Laguna, <a href='#page69'>69</a>.</li>
+      <li>Santa Maria, <a href='#page38'>38</a>, <a href='#page160'>160</a>.</li>
+      <li>Santa Maria (Totonac), <a href='#page250'>250</a>.</li>
+      <li>Santa Maria (Yucatan), <a href='#page307'>307</a>.</li>
+      <li>Santa Maria Albarradas, <a href='#page20'>20</a>.</li>
+      <li>Santa Maria Atlihuitzia, <a href='#page195'>195</a>.</li>
+      <li>Santiago Guevea, <a href='#page37'>37</a>, <a href='#page158'>158</a>.</li>
+      <li>santocalli, <a href='#page254'>254</a>.</li>
+      <li>Santo Domingo (Chiapas), <a href='#page350'>350</a>.</li>
+      <li>Santo Domingo (Mixtec), <a href='#page127'>127</a>.</li>
+      <li>sastun, <a href='#page307'>307</a>, <a href='#page310'>310</a>.</li>
+      <li>Sawapa, <a href='#page89'>89</a>, <a href='#page194'>194</a>.</li>
+      <li>schistose rock, <a href='#page182'>182</a>.</li>
+      <li>school-teachers, <a href='#page224'>224</a>.</li>
+      <li>scientific results of work, viii.</li>
+      <li>school at San Nicolas Panotla, <a href='#page93'>93</a>.</li>
+      <li>scorpion, <a href='#page394'>394</a>.</li>
+      <li>sea gulls, <a href='#page290'>290</a>.</li>
+      <li>las Sedas, <a href='#page116'>116</a>.</li>
+      <li>segundo of Zautla, <a href='#page203'>203</a>, <a href='#page204'>204</a>.</li>
+      <li>selaginella, <a href='#page154'>154</a>.</li>
+      <li>Seler&mdash;Mrs., <a href='#page331'>331</a>.</li>
+      <li>semi-domestication, <a href='#page343'>343</a>.</li>
+      <li>sensitive plants, <a href='#page201'>201</a>.</li>
+      <li>September <a href='#page16'>16</a>, San Miguel's Day, <a
+      href='#page271'>271</a>.</li>
+      <li>shales, <a href='#page377'>377</a>.</li>
+      <li>shaly-sandstone, <a href='#page374'>374</a>.</li>
+      <li>silk, <a href='#page235'>235</a>.</li>
+      <li>singing, <a href='#page171'>171</a>, <a href='#page192'>192</a>.</li>
+      <li>sister&mdash;loyal, <a href='#page361'>361</a>.<a
+      name="page429" id="page429"/></li>
+      <li>slate, <a href='#page20'>20</a>.</li>
+      <li>small-pox, <a href='#page119'>119</a>, <a href='#page194'>194</a>, <a
+      href='#page301'>301</a>, <a href='#page321'>321</a>.</li>
+      <li>Smith&mdash;Lucius, <a href='#page4'>4</a>, <a href='#page15'>15</a>.</li>
+      <li>smuggling, <a href='#page51'>51</a>.</li>
+      <li>snakes, <a href='#page277'>277</a>, <a href='#page307'>307</a>, <a
+      href='#page358'>358</a>.</li>
+      <li>snipe, <a href='#page290'>290</a>.</li>
+      <li>soldiers, <a href='#page43'>43</a>.</li>
+      <li>songs&mdash;Aztec, <a href='#page192'>192</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;Zapotec, <a
+      href='#page330'>330</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>spear-thrower, <a href='#page75'>75</a>.</li>
+      <li>spinning, <a href='#page58'>58</a>, <a href='#page202'>202</a>.</li>
+      <li>spot-sacral&mdash;on Maya babies, <a href='#page411'>411</a>.</li>
+      <li>stalagmite, <a href='#page315'>315</a>.</li>
+      <li>Starr in Old Mexico, <a href='#page405'>405</a>.</li>
+      <li>stations&mdash;railroad, <a href='#page303'>303</a>.</li>
+      <li>stream-beds dry, <a href='#page41'>41</a>.</li>
+      <li>stubbornness, <a href='#page312'>312</a>.</li>
+      <li>subterranean streams, <a href='#page373'>373</a>.</li>
+      <li>Suchiapa, <a href='#page361'>361</a>.</li>
+      <li>sugar-making, <a href='#page244'>244</a>, <a href='#page249'>249</a>, <a
+      href='#page314'>314</a>,</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;mill, 307</span></li>
+      <li>sunset, <a href='#page192'>192</a>.</li>
+      <li>surviving paganism, <a href='#page6'>6</a>, <a href='#page395'>395</a>.</li>
+      <li>syenite, <a href='#page43'>43</a>.</li>
+      <li>Syrian peddlers, <a href='#page7'>7</a>.</li>
+      <li>Tamalin, <a href='#page279'>279</a>, <a href='#page281'>281</a>.</li>
+      <li>Tampico, <a href='#page274'>274</a>.</li>
+      <li>Tanaquillo=Tanaco, <a href='#page104'>104</a>, <a href='#page105'>105</a>.</li>
+      <li>Tanatepec, <a href='#page42'>42</a>.</li>
+      <li>Tanchitla, <a href='#page251'>251</a>.</li>
+      <li>Tancoco, <a href='#page281'>281</a>, <a href='#page284'>284</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;hats, <a
+      href='#page284'>284</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;houses, <a
+      href='#page284'>284</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>Tangancicuaro, <a href='#page98'>98</a>.</li>
+      <li>Tantima, <a href='#page280'>280</a>, <a href='#page282'>282</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">houses, <a href='#page283'>283</a>, <a
+      href='#page286'>286</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>Tapachula, <a href='#page373'>373</a>.</li>
+      <li>Tarascans, <a href='#page68'>68</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;trading, <a
+      href='#page85'>85</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>Tatarian&mdash;Bedros, viii.</li>
+      <li>Tecomavaca, <a href='#page185'>185</a>.</li>
+      <li>Tecomavaca Viejo, <a href='#page186'>186</a>.</li>
+      <li>Tehuacan, <a href='#page8'>8</a>.</li>
+      <li>Tehuantepec, <a href='#page39'>39</a>, <a href='#page161'>161</a>, <a
+      href='#page328'>328</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;name story, <a
+      href='#page165'>165</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;yellow fever, <a
+      href='#page329'>329</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>Tehuantepec River, <a href='#page173'>173</a>.</li>
+      <li>Tehuantepec women, <a href='#page112'>112</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;beauty, <a
+      href='#page39'>39</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;versus Tuxtla Gutierrez, <a
+      href='#page352'>352</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;dress, <a
+      href='#page40'>40</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>Tekax, <a href='#page303'>303</a>, <a href='#page305'>305</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;hermita, <a
+      href='#page304'>304</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;Jefe of, <a
+      href='#page304'>304</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>temascal, <a href='#page191'>191</a>, <a href='#page192'>192</a>, <a
+      href='#page283'>283</a>.</li>
+      <li>Tenango (Chiapas), <a href='#page376'>376</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;pottery, <a
+      href='#page377'>377</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>Tenango del Doria, <a href='#page247'>247</a>, <a href='#page260'>260</a>, <a
+      href='#page271'>271</a>.</li>
+      <li>Tenejapa, <a href='#page366'>366</a>, <a href='#page367'>367</a>, <a
+      href='#page371'>371</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">market, <a href='#page372'>372</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>Teotitlan del Camino, <a href='#page228'>228</a>, <a
+      href='#page229'>229</a>.</li>
+      <li>tepache, <a href='#page148'>148</a>, <a href='#page217'>217</a>.</li>
+      <li>Tepanapa, <a href='#page200'>200</a>, <a href='#page213'>213</a>.</li>
+      <li>Tepehuas, <a href='#page247'>247</a>, <a href='#page267'>267</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;costume, <a
+      href='#page264'>264</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>Tepeyac, <a href='#page395'>395</a>.</li>
+      <li>teponastl, <a href='#page265'>265</a>.</li>
+      <li>Teposcolula, <a href='#page139'>139</a>.</li>
+      <li>Tequixistlan, <a href='#page174'>174</a>.<a
+      name="page430" id="page430"/></li>
+      <li>thatching, <a href='#page41'>41</a>.</li>
+      <li>theatre, <a href='#page103'>103</a>.</li>
+      <li>tiger=jaguar, or ocelotl, <a href='#page307'>307</a>.</li>
+      <li>tiger-cat, <a href='#page279'>279</a>.</li>
+      <li>Thompson&mdash;Edward, <a href='#page318'>318</a>, <a
+      href='#page320'>320</a>.</li>
+      <li>three-part house, <a href='#page88'>88</a>.</li>
+      <li>Tilantongo, <a href='#page121'>121</a>.</li>
+      <li>tinajas, <a href='#page119'>119</a>.</li>
+      <li>Titian&mdash;the, <a href='#page73'>73</a>, <a href='#page74'>74</a>.</li>
+      <li>titulo, <a href='#page236'>236</a>.</li>
+      <li>Tlacolula, <a href='#page142'>142</a>, <a href='#page180'>180</a>.</li>
+      <li>Tlacotepec, <a href='#page38'>38</a>, <a href='#page160'>160</a>.</li>
+      <li>Tlacuilotepec, <a href='#page246'>246</a>, <a href='#page248'>248</a>, <a
+      href='#page249'>249</a>.</li>
+      <li>Tlaxcala, <a href='#page85'>85</a>, <a href='#page188'>188</a>, <a
+      href='#page192'>192</a>, <a href='#page283'>283</a>.</li>
+      <li>Tlaxcalans, <a href='#page397'>397</a>.</li>
+      <li>Tlaxcalteca (song), <a href='#page192'>192</a>.</li>
+      <li>Tlaxco, <a href='#page245'>245</a>.</li>
+      <li>Tlaxiaco, <a href='#page128'>128</a>.</li>
+      <li>toro play, <a href='#page324'>324</a>, <a href='#page384'>384</a>.</li>
+      <li>toros, <a href='#page142'>142</a>.</li>
+      <li>torrent-wash, <a href='#page82'>82</a>.</li>
+      <li>Torres&mdash;Anastasia, <a href='#page362'>362</a>.</li>
+      <li>Torres&mdash;Padre, <a href='#page72'>72</a>.</li>
+      <li>tortillas, <a href='#page339'>339</a>.</li>
+      <li>tortuga, <a href='#page318'>318</a>, <a href='#page377'>377</a>.</li>
+      <li>las Tortugas, <a href='#page272'>272</a>.</li>
+      <li>Totolapa, <a href='#page179'>179</a>.</li>
+      <li>Totonacs, <a href='#page242'>242</a>, <a href='#page247'>247</a>, <a
+      href='#page251'>251</a>, <a href='#page265'>265</a>, <a
+      href='#page396'>396</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;fishing, <a
+      href='#page266'>266</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>toucan, <a href='#page44'>44</a>, <a href='#page340'>340</a>, <a
+      href='#page348'>348</a>.</li>
+      <li>trade, <a href='#page170'>170</a>, <a href='#page235'>235</a>, <a
+      href='#page236'>236</a>.</li>
+      <li>tramp&mdash;American, <a href='#page50'>50</a>, <a href='#page52'>52</a>.</li>
+      <li>tree-ferns, <a href='#page22'>22</a>, <a href='#page54'>54</a>, <a
+      href='#page199'>199</a>, <a href='#page273'>273</a>, <a
+      href='#page387'>387</a>.</li>
+      <li>trees protected, <a href='#page297'>297</a>, <a href='#page309'>309</a>.</li>
+      <li>la Trinidad, <a href='#page390'>390</a>.</li>
+      <li>Triquis, <a href='#page131'>131</a>, <a href='#page398'>398</a>.</li>
+      <li>el Triunfo, <a href='#page385'>385</a>, <a href='#page386'>386</a>, <a
+      href='#page387'>387</a>, <a href='#page388'>388</a>, <a
+      href='#page389'>389</a>.</li>
+      <li>tropical forest, <a href='#page22'>22</a>, <a href='#page37'>37</a>, <a
+      href='#page387'>387</a>.</li>
+      <li>troupe&mdash;comedy, <a href='#page337'>337</a>.</li>
+      <li>tsupakwa, <a href='#page75'>75</a>.</li>
+      <li>tufa, <a href='#page50'>50</a>.</li>
+      <li>tufaceous deposits, <a href='#page119'>119</a>, <a href='#page139'>139</a>, <a
+      href='#page263'>263</a>.</li>
+      <li>Tulancingo, <a href='#page239'>239</a>.</li>
+      <li>Tule, <a href='#page17'>17</a>, <a href='#page142'>142</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;great tree at, <a
+      href='#page16'>16</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>Tumbala, <a href='#page380'>380</a>, <a href='#page384'>384</a>, <a
+      href='#page385'>385</a>, <a href='#page389'>389</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;boys delayed at, <a
+      href='#page388'>388</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>Tuxtla Gutierrez, <a href='#page44'>44</a>, <a href='#page331'>331</a>, <a
+      href='#page333'>333</a>, <a href='#page335'>335</a>, <a href='#page338'>338</a>, <a
+      href='#page346'>346</a>, <a href='#page347'>347</a>, <a href='#page350'>350</a>,
+      351 et, <a href='#page357'>357</a>, <a href='#page376'>376</a>.</li>
+      <li>Tzendals, <a href='#page366'>366</a>, <a href='#page367'>367</a>, <a
+      href='#page378'>378</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;dress, <a href='#page372'>372</a>, <a
+      href='#page380'>380</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;hair-dressing, <a
+      href='#page372'>372</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>Tzintzuntzan, <a href='#page69'>69</a>, <a href='#page73'>73</a>.</li>
+      <li>Tzotzils, <a href='#page45'>45</a>, <a href='#page366'>366</a>, <a
+      href='#page367'>367</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;dress, <a
+      href='#page366'>366</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;industrious, <a
+      href='#page366'>366</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>ucuares, <a href='#page102'>102</a>.</li>
+      <li>ule, <a href='#page269'>269</a>.</li>
+      <li>Union Hidalgo=Guvi&ntilde;o, <a href='#page333'>333</a>, <a
+      href='#page334'>334</a>, <a href='#page335'>335</a>, <a
+      href='#page343'>343</a>.<a name="page431"
+      id="page431"/></li>
+      <li>United States&mdash;ideas regarding, <a href='#page42'>42</a>.</li>
+      <li>Uruapan, <a href='#page78'>78</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;lacquer, <a
+      href='#page79'>79</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;goitre, <a
+      href='#page79'>79</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>Valencia&mdash;Jefe, <a href='#page178'>178</a>, <a
+      href='#page375'>375</a>.</li>
+      <li>Valley hot, <a href='#page181'>181</a>.</li>
+      <li>Van Antwerp&mdash;A.L., ix.</li>
+      <li>Venta Colorado, <a href='#page241'>241</a>.</li>
+      <li>Vera Cruz, <a href='#page394'>394</a>.</li>
+      <li>Vice-consul (Solis), <a href='#page299'>299</a>, <a
+      href='#page320'>320</a>.</li>
+      <li>los Viejos, <a href='#page71'>71</a>.</li>
+      <li>view-extended, <a href='#page362'>362</a>.</li>
+      <li>village crying, <a href='#page65'>65</a>, <a href='#page153'>153</a>.</li>
+      <li>wasp nests, <a href='#page156'>156</a>.</li>
+      <li>watch-houses in fields, <a href='#page120'>120</a>.</li>
+      <li>water birds, <a href='#page277'>277</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;doubtful, <a
+      href='#page341'>341</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>wayside selling, <a href='#page76'>76</a>, <a href='#page242'>242</a>.</li>
+      <li>wayside shrine, <a href='#page28'>28</a>.</li>
+      <li>weaving, <a href='#page50'>50</a>, <a href='#page127'>127</a>, <a
+      href='#page138'>138</a>, <a href='#page202'>202</a>, <a href='#page211'>211</a>, <a
+      href='#page366'>366</a>.</li>
+      <li>wedding, <a href='#page221'>221</a>, <a href='#page236'>236</a>.</li>
+      <li>weighing, <a href='#page170'>170</a>.</li>
+      <li>Werner, Mr., <a href='#page331'>331</a>.</li>
+      <li>wheels&mdash;hot, <a href='#page349'>349</a>.</li>
+      <li>whistles&mdash;pottery, <a href='#page112'>112</a>.</li>
+      <li>Wilson, David A., viii.</li>
+      <li>wind-mills, <a href='#page297'>297</a>.</li>
+      <li>witchcraft, <a href='#page246'>246</a>, <a href='#page256'>256</a>, <a
+      href='#page376'>376</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;cave, <a
+      href='#page256'>256</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>women difficult subjects, <a href='#page89'>89</a>, <a href='#page132'>132</a>,
+      <a href='#page157'>157</a>, <a href='#page162'>162</a>, <a href='#page185'>185</a>,
+      <a href='#page268'>268</a>, <a href='#page369'>369</a>, <a
+      href='#page381'>381</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;easy&nbsp; subjects, <a
+      href='#page235'>235</a>, <a href='#page265'>265</a>, <a
+      href='#page285'>285</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;of Tuxtla Gutierrez beautiful, <a
+      href='#page352'>352</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;Zapotec, <a
+      href='#page339'>339</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>wool, <a href='#page138'>138</a>.</li>
+      <li>work&mdash;nature of, vi;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;views regarding, <a
+      href='#page235'>235</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;methods and difficulties, <a
+      href='#page61'>61</a>, <a href='#page86'>86</a>, <a href='#page122'>122</a>, <a
+      href='#page132'>132</a>,</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 2em;"><a href='#page144'>144</a>, <a
+      href='#page149'>149</a>, <a href='#page183'>183</a>, <a href='#page234'>234</a>, <a
+      href='#page312'>312</a>, <a href='#page356'>356</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>wry-necks, <a href='#page278'>278</a>.</li>
+      <li>xalama, <a href='#page259'>259</a>.</li>
+      <li>Xalapa, <a href='#page173'>173</a>.</li>
+      <li>Xaya, <a href='#page307'>307</a>, <a href='#page308'>308</a>, <a
+      href='#page309'>309</a>.</li>
+      <li>Xochihua, Sr., <a href='#page245'>245</a>, <a href='#page260'>260</a>.</li>
+      <li>xtoles, <a href='#page317'>317</a>, <a href='#page323'>323</a>.</li>
+      <li>Yajalon, <a href='#page379'>379</a>, <a href='#page381'>381</a>.</li>
+      <li>Yaqui, <a href='#page396'>396</a>.</li>
+      <li>Yautepec, <a href='#page375'>375</a>.</li>
+      <li>yellow fever, <a href='#page301'>301</a>, <a href='#page308'>308</a>, <a
+      href='#page316'>316</a>, <a href='#page327'>327</a>, <a href='#page328'>328</a>, <a
+      href='#page329'>329</a>, <a href='#page393'>393</a>.</li>
+      <li>Yodocono, <a href='#page120'>120</a>, <a href='#page396'>396</a>.</li>
+      <li>Yucatan, <a href='#page293'>293</a>, <a href='#page294'>294</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;aspect of, <a
+      href='#page296'>296</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;dress, <a
+      href='#page297'>297</a>.</span></li>
+      <li>Zamora, <a href='#page97'>97</a>.</li>
+      <li>Zanatepec, <a href='#page42'>42</a>.</li>
+      <li>el Zapato, <a href='#page219'>219</a>.<a name="page432"
+      id="page432"/></li>
+      <li>Zapote (hacienda), <a href='#page346'>346</a>.</li>
+      <li>Zapotecs, <a href='#page112'>112</a>, <a href='#page338'>338</a>, <a
+      href='#page379'>379</a>, <a href='#page397'>397</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;wounded, <a
+      href='#page19'>19</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;woman's dress, <a
+      href='#page34'>34</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;family, <a
+      href='#page34'>34</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;traders, <a
+      href='#page170'>170</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;cook, <a
+      href='#page171'>171</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;family, <a
+      href='#page176'>176</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;songs, <a
+      href='#page330'>330</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;painting, <a
+      href='#page330'>330</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;expansion, <a
+      href='#page339'>339</a>.</span><a name="page433"
+      id="page433"/></li>
+      <li>Zautla&mdash;San Juan, <a href='#page201'>201</a>.</li>
+      <li>Zinacantan, <a href='#page364'>364</a>.</li>
+      <li>Ziracuaretaro, <a href='#page77'>77</a>.</li>
+      <li>Zoques, <a href='#page45'>45</a>, <a href='#page351'>351</a>;</li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;beauty of women, <a
+      href='#page352'>352</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;dress, <a
+      href='#page352'>352</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;baby-carrying, <a
+      href='#page353'>353</a>;</span></li>
+      <li><span style="margin-left: 1em;">&mdash;houses, <a
+      href='#page357'>357</a>.</span></li>
+    </ul>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's In Indian Mexico (1908), by Frederick Starr
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+  </body>
+</html>
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of In Indian Mexico (1908), by Frederick Starr
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: In Indian Mexico (1908)
+
+Author: Frederick Starr
+
+Release Date: July 2, 2005 [EBook #16183]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK IN INDIAN MEXICO (1908) ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Jonathan Ingram, Chuck Greif and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: THE MUSIC AT CANCUC]
+
+IN INDIAN MEXICO
+
+A NARRATIVE OF TRAVEL AND LABOR
+
+BY
+
+FREDERICK STARR
+
+CHICAGO FORBES & COMPANY
+
+Library of Congress Cataloging in Publication Data
+
+Starr, Frederick, 1858-1933. In Indian Mexico.
+
+
+Reprint of the ed. published by Forbes, Chicago. 1. Indians of Mexico.
+2. Mexico--Description and travel. 3. Starr, Frederick, 1858-1933. I.
+Title. F1220.S78 1978 972'.004'97 74-9025 ISBN 0-404-11903-4
+
+First AMS edition published in 1978.
+
+Reprinted from the edition of 1908, Chicago. [Trim size of the original
+has been slightly altered in this edition. Original trim size: 15.5 x
+23.7 cm. Text area of the original has been maintained in this edition.]
+
+IN INDIAN MEXICO IS AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED TO A.A. ROBINSON TO WHOM
+ALL MY WORK IN MEXICO IS DUE AND WHOSE INTEREST HAS BEEN CONTINUOUS AND
+UNFAILING
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE
+
+
+The reading public may well ask, Why another travel book on Mexico?
+Few countries have been so frequently written up by the traveler.
+Many books, good, bad, and indifferent, but chiefly bad, have been
+perpetrated. Most of these books, however, cover the same ground,
+and ground which has been traversed by many people. Indian Mexico is
+practically unknown. The only travel-book regarding it, in English, is
+Lumholtz's "Unknown Mexico." The indians among whom Lumholtz worked
+lived in northwestern Mexico; those among whom I have studied are in
+southern Mexico. The only district where his work and mine overlap is
+the Tarascan area. In fact, then, I write upon an almost unknown and
+untouched subject. Lumholtz studied life and customs; my study has been
+the physical type of south Mexican indians. Within the area covered by
+Lumholtz, the physical characteristics of the tribes have been
+studied by Hrdlicka. His studies and my own are practically the only
+investigations within the field.
+
+There are two Mexicos. Northern Mexico to the latitude of the capital
+city is a _mestizo_ country; the indians of pure blood within that area
+occupy limited and circumscribed regions. Southern Mexico is indian
+country; there are large regions, where the _mestizos_, not the indians,
+are the exception. From the time of my first contact with Mexican
+indians, I was impressed with the notable differences between tribes,
+and desired to make a serious study of their types. In 1895, the
+accidental meeting with a priest from Guatemala led to my making a
+journey to Central America. It was on that journey that I saw how the
+work in question might be done. While the government of Mexico is
+modeled upon the same pattern as our own, it is far more paternal in its
+nature. The Republic is a confederation of sovereign states, each of
+which has its elected governor. The states are subdivided into districts
+somewhat corresponding to our counties, over each of which is a _jefe
+politico_ appointed by the governor; he has no responsibility to those
+below him, but is directly responsible to the man who names him, and
+who can at will remove him; he is not expected to trouble the state
+government unnecessarily, and as long as he turns over the taxes which
+are due the state he is given a free hand. Within the districts are
+the cities and towns, each with its local, independent, elected town
+government.
+
+The work I planned to do among these indian towns was threefold: 1. The
+measurement of one hundred men and twenty-five women in each population,
+fourteen measurements being taken upon each subject; 2. The making
+of pictures,--portraits, dress, occupations, customs, buildings, and
+landscapes; 3. The making of plaster busts of five individuals in each
+tribe. To do such work, of course, involved difficulty, as the Indians
+of Mexico are ignorant, timid, and suspicious. Much time would be
+necessary, in each village, if one depended upon establishing friendly
+and personal relations with the people. But with government assistance,
+all might be done promptly and easily. Such assistance was readily
+secured. Before starting upon any given journey, I secured letters from
+the Department of Fomento, one of the Executive Departments of the
+Federal Government. These letters were directed to the governors of the
+states; they were courteously worded introductions. From the governors,
+I received letters of a more vigorous character to the _jefes_ of the
+districts to be visited. From the _jefes_, I received stringent orders
+upon the local governments; these orders entered into no detail, but
+stated that I had come, recommended by the superior authorities, for
+scientific investigations; that the local authorities should furnish the
+necessaries of life at just prices, and that they should supply such
+help as was necessary for my investigations. In addition to the orders
+from the _jefes_ to the town authorities, I carried a general letter
+from the governor of the state to officials of every grade within its
+limits. This was done in case I should at any time reach towns in
+districts where I had been unable to see the _jefe politico_. It was
+desirable, when possible, that the _jefe_ should be seen before serious
+work was undertaken. As Governor Gonzales of Oaxaca once remarked,
+when furnishing me a general letter: "You should always see the _jefe
+politico_ of the district first. These Indians know nothing of me, and
+often will not recognize my name; but the _jefe_ of their district they
+know, and his orders they will obey." In using these official orders, I
+adopted whatever methods were best calculated to gain my ends; success
+depended largely on my taking matters into my own hands. Each official
+practically unloaded me upon the next below him, with the expectation
+that I should gain my ends, if possible, but at the same time he felt,
+and I knew, that his responsibility had ended. In case of serious
+difficulty, I could not actually count upon the backing of any one above
+the official with whom I then was dealing.
+
+Upon the Guatemala expedition, which took place in January-March, 1896,
+my only companion was Mr. Ernst Lux, whose knowledge of the language,
+the country, and the people was of the utmost value. As the result of
+that journey, my vacations through a period of four years were devoted
+to this field of research. The first field expedition covered the
+period from November, 1897, to the end of March, 1898; the plan of work
+included the visiting of a dozen or more tribes, with interpreter,
+photographer, and plaster-worker; the success of the plan depended upon
+others. Dr. W.D. Powell was to serve as interpreter, Mr. Bedros
+Tatarian as photographer; at the last moment the plans regarding the
+plaster-worker failed; arrived in the field, Dr. Powell was unable to
+carry out his contract; the photographic work disintegrated, and failure
+stared us in the face. Reorganization took place. Rev. D.A. Wilson was
+secured as interpreter, two Mexican plaster-workers, Anselmo Pacheco of
+Puebla and Ramon Godinez of Guadalajara, were discovered, and work was
+actually carried through upon four tribes. The second field expedition
+covered the period of January-March, 1899; eight tribes were visited,
+and a most successful season's work was done; Charles B. Lang was
+photographer, Anselmo Pacheco plaster-worker, and Manuel Gonzales
+general helper. The third field season, January-March, 1900, was in
+every way successful, six populations being visited; my force consisted
+of Louis Grabic photographer, Ramon Godinez plaster-worker, and Manuel
+Gonzales general assistant. The work was brought to a conclusion in
+January-March, 1901, during which period six tribes were visited; the
+party was the same as the preceding year.
+
+"In Indian Mexico" claims to be only a narrative of travel and of work.
+It is intended for the general public. The scientific results of our
+expeditions have been published under the following titles:
+
+1. The Indians of Southern Mexico: an Ethnographic Album. Chicago, 1899.
+Cloth; oblong 4to; pp. 32. 141 full-page plates.
+
+2. Notes upon the Ethnography of Southern Mexico. 1900. 8vo, pp. 98. 72
+cuts, maps, etc. Proc. Dav. Acad. Nat. Sci., Vol. VIII.
+
+3. Notes on the Ethnography of Southern Mexico, Part II. 1902. 8vo, pp.
+109. 52 cuts, map, etc. Proc. Dav. Acad. Nat. Sci., Vol. IX.
+
+4. The Physical Characters of the Indians of Southern Mexico. 4to,
+59 pp. Sketch map, color diagram, and 30 double cuts. Decennial
+Publications, University of Chicago, 1902.
+
+5. The Mapa de Cuauhtlantzinco or Codice Campos. 1898. 8vo, pp. 38. 46
+engravings. University of Chicago Press.
+
+6. Recent Mexican Study of the Native Languages of Mexico. 1900. 8vo,
+pp. 19. 7 portraits.
+
+7. Picture of Otomi woman beating bark paper. Printed on sheet of the
+original paper; mounted.
+
+8. The Mapa of Huilotepec. Reproduction; single sheet, mounted.
+
+9. The Mapa of Huauhtla. Reproduction; single sheet, mounted.
+
+10. Survivals of Paganism in Mexico. The Open Court. 1899.
+
+11. Mexican Paper. American Antiquarian. 1900.
+
+12. The Sacral Spot in Maya Indians. Science. 1903.
+
+Naturally, in a work of such extent we have been under obligation
+to many parties. It is impossible to acknowledge, in detail, such
+obligations. We must, however, express our indebtedness, for assistance
+rendered, to the Mexican Central Railroad, the Mexican Railway, the
+Mexican National Railroad, the Tehuantepec Railroad, the Mexican
+Southern Railroad, and the Interoceanic Railroad; also to the Ward
+Line of steamers. Among individuals, it is no unfair discrimination to
+express especial thanks to Mr. A.A. Robinson and Mr. A.L. Van Antwerp.
+President Diaz has ever shown a friendly interest in my plans of work
+and the results obtained. Senor Manuel Fernandez Leal, Minister of the
+Department of Fomento, more than any other official, lent us every aid
+and assistance in his power; his successor, Senor Leandro Fernandez,
+continued the kindness shown by Minister Leal. And to all the governors
+of the states and to the _jefes_ of the districts we are under many
+obligations, and express to each and all our appreciation of their
+kind assistance. Those personal friends who have been helpful in this
+specific work in Indian Mexico are mentioned in the appropriate places
+in the text. To those companions and assistants who accompanied us upon
+the journeys a large part of the results of this work are due.
+
+CHICAGO, January, 1908.
+
+
+  CONTENTS
+
+  CHAPTER                                Page
+
+  I. PRIESTLY ARCHAEOLOGY                   1
+
+  II. WE START FOR GUATEMALA               13
+
+  III. THE LAND OF THE MIXES               22
+
+  IV. THROUGH CHIAPAS                      39
+
+  V. AT HUIXQUILUCAN                       56
+
+  VI. LAKE PATZCUARO                       68
+
+  VII. TO URUAPAN BEFORE THE RAILROAD      76
+
+  VIII. TLAXCALA                           85
+
+  IX. ZAMORA AND THE ONCE PUEBLOS          95
+
+  X. THE BOY WITH THE SMILE               108
+
+  XI. IN THE MIXTECA ALTA                 112
+
+  XII. THE MIXES REVISITED                142
+
+  XIII. ABOUT TEHUANTEPEC                 161
+
+  XIV. ON THE MAIN HIGH-ROAD              173
+
+  XV. CUICATLAN                           181
+
+  XVI. IN TLAXCALAN TOWNS                 188
+
+  XVII. IN THE CHINANTLA                  198
+
+  XVIII. TO COIXTLAHUACA                  216
+
+  XIX. HUAUHTLA AND THE MAZATECS          228
+
+  XX. TEPEHUAS AND TOTONACS               239
+
+  XXI. IN THE HUAXTECA                    274
+
+  XXII. IN MAYA LAND                      293
+
+  XXIII. OX-CART EXPERIENCES              328
+
+  XXIV. AT TUXTLA GUTIERREZ               351
+
+  XXV. TZOTZILS AND TZENDALS              360
+
+  XXVI. CHOLS                             381
+
+  XXVII. CONCLUSION                       395
+
+  GLOSSARY                                399
+
+  APPENDIX                                405
+
+
+
+IN INDIAN MEXICO
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I
+
+PRIESTLY ARCHAEOLOGY
+
+(1895)
+
+
+While we stood in the Puebla station, waiting for the train to be made
+ready, we noticed a priest, who was buying his ticket at the office. On
+boarding the train, we saw nothing of him, as he had entered another
+car. Soon after we started, Herman made his usual trip of inspection
+through the train, and on his return told me that a learned priest was
+in the second-class coach, and that I ought to know him. As I paid no
+great attention to his suggestion, he soon deserted me for his priestly
+friend, but presently returned and renewed his advice. He told me this
+priest was no common man; that he was an ardent archaeologist; that he
+not only collected relics, but made full notes and diagrams of all his
+investigations; that he cared for live Indians also, and had made a
+great collection of dress, weapons, and tools, among Guatemalan tribes.
+When I even yet showed no intention of hurrying in to visit his new
+acquaintance, the boy said: "You must come in to see him, for I promised
+him you would, and you ought not to prove me to be a liar."
+
+This appeal proved effectual and I soon called upon the priestly
+archaeologist in the other car. He was an interesting man. By birth
+a German, he spoke excellent English; born of Protestant parents and
+reared in their faith, in early manhood be became a Catholic; renounced
+by his parents and left without support, he was befriended by Jesuits
+and determined to become a priest. Entering the ministry at twenty-nine
+years of age, he was sent as mission priest to foreign lands. He had
+lived in California, Utah, and Nevada; he had labored in Ecuador,
+Panama, and Guatemala. His interest in archaeology, kindled in the
+Southwest, continued in his later fields of labor. Waxing confidential
+he said: "I am a priest first, because I must live, but it does not
+interfere much with my archaeology." For years past the padre has lived
+in Guatemala, where he had charge of one of the largest parishes in that
+Republic, with some eighteen thousand full-blood indians in his charge.
+Like most Germans a linguist, the padre spoke German, French, Spanish,
+English, and Quiche, the most important indian speech of Guatemala. In
+his parish, he so arranged his work as to leave most of his time free
+for investigation. Twice a week he had baptisms, on Thursday and Sunday;
+these duties on Thursday took but a couple of hours, leaving the rest of
+the day free; Sundays, of course, were lost, but not completely, for the
+indians often then told him of new localities, where diggings might be
+undertaken. Always when digging into ancient mounds and graves, he had
+his horse near by ready for mounting, and his oil and other necessaries
+at hand, in case he should be summoned to the bedside of the dying. As
+the indians always knew where to look for him, no time was lost.
+
+Not only was the padre an archaeologist: he also gathered plants, birds,
+and insects. When he was leaving Germany, his nephew, the ten-year-old
+child of his sister, wished to accompany him. The parents refused their
+permission, but the uncle gave the boy some money, and they met each
+other in Frankfort and started on their journey. They have been together
+ever since. The padre depends completely on the younger man, whom he has
+fashioned to his mind. The plants, birdskins, and insects have supplied
+a steady income. The plants cost labor; insects were easier to get. All
+the indian boys in the parish were supplied with poison-bottles and set
+to work; a stock of prints of saints, beads, medals, and crucifixes was
+doled out to the little collectors, according to the value of their
+trophies. To allay the suspicions of his parishioners, the padre
+announced that he used the insects in making medicines. One Sunday a
+pious old indian woman brought to church a great beetle, which she had
+caught in her corn field four days before; during that time it had been
+tied by a string to her bed's leg; she received a medal. One day a man
+brought a bag containing some five hundred living insects; on opening
+it, they all escaped into the house, causing a lively time for their
+recapture.
+
+The nephew, Ernst, had made a collection of eleven hundred skins of
+Guatemalan birds. The padre and he have supplied specimens to many of
+the great museums of the world, but the choicest things have never been
+permitted to leave their hands.
+
+The padre is a great success at getting into trouble. He fled from
+Ecuador on account of political difficulties; his stay in Guatemala is
+the longest he has ever made in one place. During his eight years there
+he was successful; but he finally antagonized the government, was
+arrested, and thrown into jail. He succeeded in escaping, fled to
+Salvador, and from there made his way to the United States, where, for a
+little time, he worked, unhappily, at San Antonio, Texas. A short
+time since, the Archbishop of Oaxaca was in Texas, met the padre, and
+promised him an appointment in his diocese. The padre was now on his way
+to Oaxaca to see the prelate and receive his charge.
+
+He was full of hope for a happy future. When he learned that we were
+bound for the ruins of Mitla, he was fired with a desire to accompany
+us. At Oaxaca we separated, going to different hotels. My party was
+counting upon the company of Mr. Lucius Smith, as interpreter and
+companion, to the ruins, but we were behind our appointment and he had
+gone upon another expedition. This delighted the padre, who saw a new
+light upon the path of duty. The archbishop had received him cordially,
+and had given him a parish, although less than a day had passed since
+his arrival. When the padre knew of our disappointment, he hastened to
+his prelate, told him that an eminent American archaeologist, with a
+party of four, wished to visit Mitla, but had no interpreter; might he
+not accompany these worthy gentlemen, in some way serving mother church
+by doing so? So strong was his appeal, that he was deputed to say mass
+at Mitla Sunday, starting for his new parish of Chila on the Monday
+following.
+
+In the heavy, lumbering coach we left next morning, Saturday, for Mitla.
+The road, usually deep with dust, was in fair condition on account of
+recent rains. We arrived in the early afternoon and at once betook
+ourselves to the ruins. At the curacy, we presented the archbishop's
+letter to the indian cura, who turned it over once or twice, then asked
+the padre to read it, as his eyes were bad. While the reading proceeded,
+the old man listened with wonder, and then exclaimed, "What a learned
+man you are to read like that!" As we left, the padre expressed his
+feelings at the comeliness of the old priest's indian housekeeper, at
+the number of her children, at the suspicious wideness of his bed, and
+at his ignorance, in wearing a ring, for all the world just like a
+bishop's. But he soon forgot his pious irritation amid those marvelous
+ruins of past grandeur. In our early ramble he lost no opportunity to
+tell the indians that he would repeat mass on the morrow at seven, and
+that they should make a special effort to be present.
+
+[Illustration: WITH THE PADRE IN MITLA RUINS]
+
+[Illustration: THE PADRE, ERNST AND THE DOGS]
+
+But as we wandered from one to another of the ancient buildings, the
+thought of the morrow's duty lost its sweetness. He several times
+remarked that it was a great pity to lose any of our precious morning
+hours in saying mass, when there were ruins of such interest to be seen.
+These complaints gained in force and frequency as evening approached,
+until finally, as we sat at supper, he announced his decision to say
+mass before daybreak; he would call me at five o'clock, we would go
+directly to the church, we would be through service before six, would
+take our morning's coffee immediately after, and then would have quite a
+piece of the morning left for the ruins, before the coach should leave
+for Oaxaca.
+
+The plan was carried out in detail. At five we were called from our beds
+by the anxious padre. Herman and I were the only members of the party
+who were sufficiently devout to care to hear mass so early. With the
+padre, we stumbled in the darkness up to the church, where we roused the
+old woman who kept the key and the boy who rang the bell. The vestments
+were produced, the padre hastily robed, and the bell rung; the padre was
+evidently irritated at the absence of a congregation, as he showed by
+the rapid and careless way in which he repeated the first part of the
+service. When, however, at the _Credo_, he turned and saw that several
+poor indians had quietly crept in, a change came over him; his tone
+became fuller, his manner more dignified, and the service itself more
+impressive and decorous. Still, we were through long before six, and
+throwing off his vestments, which he left the boy to put away, the padre
+seized me by the arm, and we hastened down the hill to our morning's
+coffee. On the way we met a number of indians on their way to mass,
+whom the padre sternly rebuked for their laziness and want of devotion.
+Immediately after coffee, we were among the ruins.
+
+The padre had kindly arranged for my presentation to his Grace,
+Archbishop Gillow. Reaching Oaxaca late on Sunday afternoon, we called
+at the Palace. His Grace is a man of good presence, with a face of some
+strength and a courteous and gracious manner. He appeared to be about
+fifty-five years of age. After the padre had knelt and kissed the ring,
+the archbishop invited us to be seated, expressed an interest in our
+trip to Mitla, hoping that it had proved successful. He then spoke at
+some length in regard to his diocese. He emphasized its diversity in
+climate and productions, the wide range of its plant life, the great
+number of indian tribes which occupied it, the Babel of tongues within
+it, its vast mineral wealth. A Mexican by birth, the archbishop is, in
+part, of English blood and was educated, as a boy, in England. He speaks
+English easily and well. He showed us many curious and interesting
+things. Among these was a cylindrical, box-like figure of a rain-god,
+which was found by a priest upon his arrival at the Mixe Indian village
+of Mixistlan.[A] It was in the village church, at the high altar where
+it shared worship with the virgin and the crucifix. The archbishop
+himself, in his description of the incident, used the word _latria_.
+We were also shown a little cross, which stood upon the archbishop's
+writing-table, made in part from a fragment of that miraculous cross,
+which was found by Sir Francis Drake, upon the west coast. That
+"terrible fanatic" tried to destroy it, according to a well-known story.
+The cross was found standing when the Spaniards first arrived and is
+commonly attributed to St. Thomas. Sir Francis upon seeing this emblem
+of a hated faith, first gave orders to hew it down with axes; but axes
+were not sharp enough to harm it. Fires were then kindled to burn it,
+but had no effect. Ropes were attached to it and many men were set to
+drag it from the sand; but all their efforts could not move it. So it
+was left standing, and from that time became an object of especial
+veneration. Time, however, destroys all things. People were constantly
+breaking off bits of the sacred emblem for relics until so little was
+left of the trunk near the ground that it was deemed necessary to remove
+the cross. The diggers were surprised to find that it had never set more
+than a foot into the sand. This shows the greatness of the miracle.
+
+[A] Survivals of Paganism in Mexico. The Open Court. 1899.
+
+The padre had been assigned to the parish of Chila, a great indian town,
+near Tehuacan. Early the next morning he left for his new home.
+
+
+
+Not only did the padre, while in Oaxaca, urge us to call upon him in
+his new parish; after he was settled, he renewed his invitation. So we
+started for Chila. We had been in the _tierra caliente_, at Cordoba.
+From there we went by rail to Esperanza, from which uninteresting town
+we took a street-car line, forty-two miles long, to Tehuacan. This saved
+us time, distance, and money, and gave us a brand-new experience. There
+were three coaches on our train, first-, second-, and third-class. When
+buying tickets we struck acquaintance with a Syrian peddler. Three of
+these were travelling together; one of them spoke a little English,
+being proficient in profanity. He likes the United States, _per se_, and
+does not like Mexico; but he says the latter is the better for trade.
+"In the United States, you sell maybe fifteen, twenty-five, fifty cents
+a day; here ten, fifteen, twenty-five dollars." The trip lasted three
+hours and involved three changes of mules at stations, where we found
+all the excitement and bustle of a true railroad station.
+
+The country was, at first, rolling, with a sparse growth of yuccas, many
+of which were exceptionally large and fine. On the hills were occasional
+_haciendas_. This broken district was succeeded by a genuine desert,
+covered with fine dust, which rose, as we rode, in suffocating clouds.
+Here the valley began to close in upon us and its slopes were sprinkled
+with great cushion cactuses in strange and grotesque forms. After this
+desert gorge, we came out into a more open and more fertile district
+extending to Tehuacan. Even this, however, was dry and sunburned.
+
+Our party numbered four. We had written and telegraphed to the padre
+and expected that he, or Ernst, would meet us in Tehuacan. Neither was
+there. No one seemed to know just how far it was to Chila. Replies to
+our inquiries ranged from five to ten leagues.[B] Looking for some mode
+of conveyance, we refused a coach, offered at fifteen pesos, as the
+price seemed high. Hunting horses, we found four, which with a foot
+_mozo_ to bring them back, would cost twenty pesos. Telling the owner
+that we were not buying horses, but merely renting, we returned to the
+proprietor of the coach and stated that we would take it, though his
+price was high, and that he should send it without delay to the railroad
+station, where our companions were waiting. Upon this the owner of the
+coach pretended that he had not understood that there were four of us
+(though we had plainly so informed him); his price was for two. If we
+were four, he must have forty pesos. A fair price here might be eight
+pesos for the coach, or four for horses. So we told the coach owner
+that we would walk to Chila, rather than submit to such extortion.
+This amused him greatly and he made some facetious observations, which
+determined me to actually perform the trip on foot. Returning to the
+railroad station, where two of the party were waiting, I announced my
+intention of walking to Chila; as the way was long and the sand heavy
+and the padre's silence and non-appearance boded no great hospitality in
+welcome, I directed the rest to remain comfortably at Tehuacan until my
+return on the next day. Herman, however, refused the proposition; my
+scheme was dangerous; for me to go alone, at night, over a strange road,
+to Chila was foolhardy; he should accompany me to protect me. Consenting
+that he should accompany, we began to seek a _mozo_, as guide to
+Chila. With difficulty, and some loss of time, one was found who would
+undertake the business for two pesos. In vain a Jew peddler standing by
+and the station agent remonstrated with the man; two pesos was a full
+week's wages; it was ridiculous to demand such a price for guiding two
+foot travellers to Chila. He admitted that two pesos might be a week's
+wages; but he did not have to go to Chila and if we wanted him to do so
+we must pay his price. We capitulated, the station agent loaned us a
+revolver, we left our friends behind us and started on our journey. It
+was now dark. In a mysterious voice, our guide said we must go first to
+his house; there he secured his _serape_ and a heavy club. As we left
+his house he feared we must be hungry and indicated a bread-shop; we
+purchased and all three ate as we walked; a moment later he suggested
+that we would need _cigarros_ of course, and a stock of these were
+added, at our expense. Then, at last, we came down to business.
+
+[B] The Mexican league is 2.7 miles.
+
+Plainly our guide did not enjoy his task. Shortly after we started, the
+moon rose and, from its shining full on the light sand, it was almost
+as bright as day. We were in single file, our guide, Herman, and I. At
+sight of every bush or indistinct object, our guide clutched his club
+and crossed himself, as he mumbled a prayer. When we met anyone, we
+kept strictly to our side of the road, they to theirs, and, in passing,
+barely exchanged a word of greeting. The timidity and terror of our
+guide increased as we advanced, until I concluded to be prepared for any
+emergency and carried the revolver in my hand, instead of in my pocket.
+Mile after mile we trudged along through the heavy sand, into which we
+sunk so far that our low shoes repeatedly became filled and we had to
+stop to take them off and empty them. We passed through San Pablo, left
+the Hacienda of San Andres to one hand, and, finally, at 10:10 found
+ourselves in the great indian town of San Gabriel de Chila. It was much
+larger than we had anticipated and almost purely indian. We walked
+through a considerable portion of the town before we reached the plaza,
+the church, and the _curato_. Our journey had probably been one of
+fifteen miles. All was dark at the _curato_; an indian was sleeping in
+the corridor, but he was a traveller and gave us no information on being
+awakened. At our third or fourth pounding upon the door, Ernst appeared
+at the window; on learning who we were he hastened to let us in. He
+reported trouble in the camp; the padre had gone hastily to Oaxaca to
+see the archbishop; our telegram had not been received; our letter came
+that morning. We found that things were packed ready for removal. A good
+supper was soon ready, but while it was being prepared we took a cool
+bath, by moonlight, in the trough bath-tub out in the _patio_.
+
+In the morning we heard the full story. Formerly there was here a
+priest, who devoted his whole life to this parish, growing old in its
+service; in his old age he was pensioned, with sixty pesos monthly from
+the parish receipts. The priest who succeeded him, coming something
+over three years ago, was a much younger man. During his three years of
+service, he was continually grumbling; the work was hard, his health was
+bad at Chila, the heat was intolerable; he wished another parish. The
+archbishop finally took him at his word; without warning he transferred
+him to another parish, and sent our friend, the archaeologist here, in
+his place. This did not suit the man relieved; Chila itself was much to
+his liking; what he really wanted was to be relieved from the support
+of his superannuated predecessor. No sooner was he transferred than he
+began to look with longing on his former charge and to make a vigorous
+effort to regain it. Accusations were hurried to Oaxaca; the new priest
+was pursuing agriculture as a means of profit; he had not paid the dues
+to the aged priest; he had himself admitted to parishioners that his
+object in coming to Chila was more to study antiquities and natural
+history than to preach the gospel. It is claimed that, immediately on
+receiving this communication, the archbishop sent a peremptory letter to
+the padre demanding an explanation; this letter, Ernst said, never was
+delivered, hence no explanation was sent. The prelate acted promptly;
+orders were sent to our friend to give up the parish to the former
+priest, who appeared on the scene to receive his charge. Then, and then
+only, it is said the delayed letter came to light. The padre had left,
+at once, for Oaxaca and his archbishop. From there he sent messages
+by telegraph: "Pack up, and come to Tehuacan;" "Wait until you hear
+further." A third came the morning we were there: "Pack up; meet me at
+Tehuacan, ready to go to a new parish."
+
+It was really sad to look about the new home, to which he had come with
+such buoyant hopes and of which he had been so soon dispossessed. When
+he arrived, the place was neglected and filthy; two whole days were
+necessary to clean it. It had contained practically no furniture; he
+had made it look like a place in which to live. He had improved and
+beautified its surroundings. He had planted a little corn and set out
+some young banana trees; he had gathered many species of cactus from the
+neighboring hills and had built up a fine bed of the strange plants
+in his _patio_. Passionately fond of pets, he had two magnificent
+greyhounds and a pug--all brought from Guatemala--a black collie, doves,
+hens and turkeys on the place. And now, he was again without a home and
+his time, money, and labor were lost.
+
+Ernst accompanied us to Tehuacan. We rented three horses and a man on
+foot went with us to bring them back to the village. And for the whole
+we paid the regular price of eighty-seven centavos--twenty-five each for
+the animals, and twelve centavos for the man--something less than the
+twenty pesos demanded the day before at Tehuacan.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II
+
+WE START FOR GUATEMALA
+
+(1896)
+
+
+The evening we were at Mitla, Senor Quiero came hurrying to our room and
+urged us to step out to the corridor before the house to see some
+Mixes. It was our first glimpse of representatives of this little known
+mountain people. Some thirty of them, men and women, loaded with fruit,
+coffee, and charcoal, were on their way to the great fair and market,
+at Tlacolula. They had now stopped for the night and had piled their
+burdens against the wall. Wrapping themselves in their tattered and
+dirty blankets, they laid themselves down on the stone floor, so close
+together that they reminded me of sardines in a box. With a blazing
+splinter of fat pine for torch, we made our inspection. Their broad dark
+faces, wide flat noses, thick lips and projecting jaws, their coarse
+clothing, their filthiness, their harsh and guttural speech, profoundly
+impressed me and I resolved to penetrate into their country and see them
+in their homes, at the first opportunity.
+
+Our friend the padre never tired of telling how much more interesting
+Guatemala was than Mexico; he could not understand why any man of sense
+should waste his time in Mexico, a land so large that a dozen students
+could not begin to solve its problems, while Guatemala, full of
+interesting ruins and crowded with attractive Indians, was of such size
+that one man's lifetime could count for something. His tales of indian
+towns, life, dress, customs, kindled enthusiasm; but it was only after
+thinking over the Mixes, that I decided to make a journey to Guatemala.
+The padre, himself, could not accompany me, being a political refugee,
+but he had told me Ernst should go with me. After three months'
+consideration my plan was made. We would start from Oaxaca overland via
+the Mixes country; we would everywhere keep in the mountains; in Chiapas
+we would completely avoid the usual highway, hot and dusty, near the
+coast; in Guatemala itself, we would go by Nenton, Huehuetenango and
+Nibaj. This did not suit the padre: he had had in mind a journey all
+rail and steamer; and friends, long resident in Mexico, shook their
+heads and spoke of fatigues and dangers. But I was adamant; the Mixes
+drew me; we would go overland, on horse, or not at all.
+
+When the Padre left Chila, he took a letter of recommendation from the
+Archbishop of Oaxaca to the Bishop of Vera Cruz at Jalapa. By him,
+the padre was located at Medellin, a few miles from Vera Cruz itself.
+Thither I journeyed to join Ernst and make the final preparations for
+the journey. Ernst met me at the station at 6:30 in the evening and we
+stayed the night in the hot, mosquito-tortured, plague-stricken city.
+Leaving at eight o'clock in the morning we were at Medellin in an hour.
+Our journey was through low, swampy ground on which the chief growth was
+of palm. The padre, whom we had not seen since we parted at Oaxaca, met
+us at the station and took us at once to his house. The town is small,
+the population a miserable mixture of black, white, and indian elements.
+Few of the couples living there have been legally married. The parish is
+one of the worst in the whole diocese. The bishop warned the padre that
+it was an undesirable field, but it was the only one then unoccupied.
+But the padre was working wonders and the church was then undergoing
+repairs and decorations. The actual _curato_ was long ago seized by
+the government and is now used as a schoolhouse. The priest lived in a
+rented house close by the river bank. The house is a double one and the
+priest occupied but half of it; those in the other half were hostile to
+him and he was anxious to rent the whole place. His neighbors, however,
+did not care to leave and threatened vengeance; they were behind a mass
+of accusations filed against him with the bishop. His friends rallied to
+his support, sent in a strong endorsement, and he remained. The padre
+had been industrious while here. Behind his house is the little river,
+with a bath-house built over it; crossing in a dugout canoe we found his
+garden flourishing, filled with fresh vegetables. The family of pets had
+grown; Baldur, Freia, Votan, Doxil--the dogs--were here as at Chila, but
+he also had fantail and capuchin pigeons, hens and chicks, ducks
+and geese, canary birds, and native birds in cages. Here also were
+archaeological relics, plants, beetles and birds for gathering. And here
+too, for the first time, I had the opportunity of examining his great
+collection of Ecuadorean humming-birds and a magnificent lot of
+Guatemalan quetzal skins, among them probably the finest ever collected.
+
+[Illustration: THE PADRE'S HOUSE; MEDELLIN]
+
+[Illustration: THE CHURCH; MEDELLIN]
+
+We left Medellin on January 8th; went by rail to Puebla, then to Oaxaca.
+Here we found our friend Doctor Hyde, of Silao, who was nursing Lucius
+Smith, in what proved to be a final illness. He aided us in finding
+animals and completing preparations for our journey. We secured a large
+bay horse for myself, a roan for Ernst, a little mule for baggage. For
+my own part, I dislike mules; Ernst and the doctor, however, were loud
+in their praise of such a beast; both asserted that a good mule should
+sell for double its cost on our arrival at Guatemala City. When,
+finally, after inspecting a variety of animals we found one lively,
+young one, the doctor was delighted. Taking me to one side, he informed
+me that such an opportunity was unlikely to occur again. I yielded and
+the little mule was ours. We named the three animals Mixe, Zapotec, and
+Chontal, from three tribes through whose country we expected to pass.
+
+The doctor's helpfulness was not confined to advice regarding mules. He
+insisted upon our buying various supplies, such as boxes of sardines,
+sago, coffee, etc., the utility of which appeared neither at the time
+nor later. Also at his suggestion a quart of whiskey was purchased and
+carefully divided into two flasks, one for each saddlebag. Most useful
+of all the doctor's suggestions, and one for which we had reason many
+times to thank him, was the securing from the governor of a letter to
+all local authorities in the state, directing them to supply us with the
+necessities of life, at just prices.
+
+We had hoped to start from Oaxaca in the early morning, but it was well
+on in the afternoon before all arrangements were completed. The doctor
+and his Mexican friend rode with us to Tule to see us well started. It
+was out over the old road to Mitla. The afternoon was hot, dust was
+deep, and a heavy wind blew it up into our faces in clouds. The sun was
+already setting when we rode into Santa Maria Tule, and we went at once
+to see the famous cypress tree, which no one in the party, save myself,
+had seen. It seems now to be a single tree, but was perhaps, originally,
+three; at present it displays a single, vast trunk, buttressed with
+heavy irregular projecting columns. So irregular is this enormous mass
+that no two persons taking its girth exactly agree. We measured it four
+feet above the ground and made the circumference one hundred and sixty
+feet. The mass of delicate green foliage above was compact, vigorous,
+and beautiful. Many years ago Humboldt cut a rectangular piece of bark
+from the old trunk and on the smooth surface thus exposed carved an
+inscription with his name.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Bark has since grown over the sides and corners of this tablet, but much
+of the inscription may still be read. Since Humboldt's visit many lesser
+men have gashed the old tree to leave their mark.
+
+As it was now darkening we hurried to the _meson_ of the village. The
+old lady in charge received us with suspicion; she could not feed us and
+refused to receive us into the house for the night; she would permit
+us to sleep outside, in the corridor--which we might have done without
+asking permission. At this moment, the doctor's friend remembered that
+he knew a man here and went out to reconnoitre; he soon returned and led
+us to his friend's house, where we were well received. A supper of eggs,
+_tortillas_, and chocolate was soon served. Before we had finished the
+moon had risen and by its light the doctor and his friend started
+on their return to town. We slept on beds, made of boards laid upon
+sawhorses, in a grain store-room, where rats were running around all
+night long.
+
+The next day, we were again at Mitla. It was a festival day, that of the
+Conversion of St. Paul the Apostle. In the evening there were rockets,
+the band played, and a company of drummers and _chirimiya_ blowers went
+through the town. Senor Quiero had fires of blazing pine knots at the
+door. When the procession passed we noted its elements. In front was the
+band of ten boys; men with curious standards mounted on poles followed.
+The first of these standards was a figure, in strips of white and pink
+tissue paper, of a long-legged, long-necked, long-billed bird, perhaps a
+heron; next stars of colored paper, with lights inside; then were large
+globes, also illuminated, three of white paper and three in the national
+colors--red, white, and green. Grandest of all, however, was a globular
+banner of cloth on which was painted a startling picture of the saint's
+conversion. All of these were carried high in the air and kept rotating.
+Behind the standard bearers came a drummer and the player on the shrill
+pipe or _pito--chirimiya_. The procession stopped at Senor Quiero's
+_tienda_, and the old man opened both his heart and his bottles; spirits
+flowed freely to all who could crowd into the little shop and bottles
+and packs of _cigarros_ were sent out to the standard-bearers. As a
+result we were given a vigorous explosion of rockets, and several pieces
+by the band, the drummer, and the _pitero_.
+
+Beyond Mitla the valley narrows and the road rises onto a gently sloping
+terrace; when it strikes the mountains it soon becomes a bridle-path
+zigzagging up the cliffside. As we mounted by it, the valley behind
+expanded magnificently under our view. We passed through a belt of
+little oak trees, the foliage of which was purple-red, like the autumnal
+coloring of our own forests. Higher up we reached the pine timber. As
+soon as we reached the summit, the lovely valley view was lost and we
+plunged downward, even more abruptly than we had mounted, along the side
+of a rapidly deepening gorge. At the very mouth of this, on a pretty
+terrace, we came abruptly on the little town of San Lorenzo with
+palm-thatched huts of brush or cane and well grown hedges of _organo_
+cactus. Here we ate _tortillas_ and fried-eggs with chili. Immediately
+on setting out from here we rode over hills, the rock of which was
+deeply stained with rust and streaked with veins of quartz, up to a
+crest of limestone covered with a crust of stalagmite.
+
+[Illustration: THE START FROM OAXACA]
+
+[Illustration: THE CELEBRATION AT MITLA]
+
+The road up to this summit was not good, but that down the other side
+was _bad_. The irregular, great blocks of limestone, covered with the
+smooth, dry, slippery coating, caused constant stumbling to our poor
+animals. From this valley we rose onto a yet grander range. Here we had
+our first Mixe experience. At the very summit, where the road became
+for a little time level, before plunging down into the profound valley
+beyond, we met two Indians, plainly Mixes. Both were bareheaded, and
+both wore the usual dirty garments--a cotton shirt over a pair of cotton
+trousers, the legs of which were rolled up to the knees or higher. The
+younger of the men bore a double load, as he had relieved his companion.
+The old man's face was scratched and torn, his hands were smeared with
+blood and blood stained his shirt. We cried an "_adios_" and the old man
+kissed my hand, while the younger, pointing to his friend said "_Sangre,
+Senor, sangre_" (Blood, sir, blood.) Vigorously they told the story of
+the old man's misfortune, but in incomprehensible Spanish. While they
+spoke three others like them, each bent under his burden came up onto
+the ridge. These kissed my hand and then, excitedly pointing to the old
+man, all talking at once, tried to tell his story. Having expressed our
+sympathy, we left the five looking after us, the old man, with his torn
+and bleeding face, being well in the foreground.
+
+Down in the valley, across a little stream, we struck into a pleasant
+meadow road leading to the Hacienda of San Bartolo. Suddenly, before us,
+in the road, we saw a man lying. We thought he was dead. He was a young
+man, an indian in the usual dress, apparently a Zapotec. His face was
+bloody and his shirt was soaked in front with blood, which had trickled
+down upon the ground forming a pool in which he lay. We could see no
+deep wound, but, as he lay upon his side, there may have been such. Near
+him in the road there lay a knife, the blade covered with blood. The man
+lay perfectly still, but we fancied we could see a slight movement of
+the chest. In Mexico, it is best not to investigate too closely, because
+the last to touch a murdered man may be held responsible for his death.
+So we hurried on toward the _hacienda_ but, before reaching it, met two
+girls about nineteen years of age and a little lad all Zapotecs. We told
+them what we had seen and bade them notify the authorities. One of
+the girls cried, "_Si, Senor, es mi hermano_" ("Yes, sir, it is my
+brother"), and they ran down the road. As for us, we hurried onward,
+without stopping at the _hacienda_, in order not to be delayed or held
+as witnesses.
+
+There is no love between the Zapotecs and Mixes. We never learned
+the actual story, but imagined it somewhat as follows. The old Mixe,
+carrying his burden, had probably encountered the young Zapotec and
+had words with him. Probably there had been blows, and the old man was
+having the worst of it when his companions came along and turned the
+tide of battle.
+
+The road, after passing the _hacienda_, ascended almost constantly for
+many miles. We passed clumps of yuccas. As we mounted we faced a strong
+and cutting wind, and were glad when any turn in the road gave us a
+moment's relief. The final ascent was sharp and difficult, up a hill of
+red or purple slate, which splintered into bits that were both slippery
+and sharp to the feet of our poor animals. Just as the sun was
+setting and dusk fell, we reached the miserable pueblo of Santa Maria
+Albarradas. It was situated on a terrace or shelf, and its little houses
+were made of red or purple adobe bricks, and thatched with grass. Little
+garden patches and groups of cultivated trees surrounded the houses. The
+church was little larger than the dwellings, and was constructed of the
+same clay, thatched with the same grass. Near it was the town-house. We
+summoned the _presidente_, and while we waited for him, the men, women,
+and children of the town thronged around us and watched our every
+movement, commenting the while on our actions and words. When the
+_presidente_ came, we made known our wants and soon had supper for
+ourselves, food for our animals, a shelter for the night, and a _mozo_
+as guide for the morrow. The town-house was put at our disposition; it
+was sadly in need of repairs, and consisted of two rooms, one larger
+than the other. In the larger room there was a long and heavy table, a
+bench or two, and some wooden chairs. We slept upon the ground, and
+long before we rolled ourselves up in our blankets the wind was blowing
+squarely from the north. The sky was half covered with a heavy black
+cloud; as the night advanced, it became colder and colder, the wind
+cutting like a knife, and while we shivered in our blankets, it seemed
+as if we had been born to freeze there in the tropics.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III
+
+THE LAND OF THE MIXES
+
+(1896)
+
+
+Santa Maria was the last Zapotec town; we were on the border of the
+country of the Mixes. Starting at seven next morning, we followed a
+dizzy trail up the mountain side to the summit. Beyond that the road
+went down and up many a slope. A norther was on; cold wind swept over
+the crest, penetrating and piercing; cloud masses hung upon the higher
+summits; and now and again sheets of fine, thin mist were swept down
+upon us by the wind; this mist was too thin to darken the air, but on
+the surface of the driving sheets rainbows floated. The ridge, which for
+a time we followed, was covered with a thicket of purple-leaved oaks,
+which were completely overgrown with bromelias and other air-plants.
+From here, we passed into a mountain country that beggars description.
+I know and love the Carolina mountains--their graceful forms, their
+sparkling streams and springs, the lovely sky stretched above them; but
+the millionaires are welcome to their "land of the sky"; we have our
+land of the Mixes, and to it they will never come. The mountains here
+are like those of Carolina, but far grander and bolder; here the sky is
+more amply extended. There, the slopes are clad with rhododendrons and
+azaleas, with the flowering shrub, with strawberries gleaming amid
+grass; here we have rhododendrons also, in clusters that scent the air
+with the odor of cloves, and display sheets of pink and purple bloom;
+here we have magnificent tree-ferns, with trunks that rise twenty feet
+into the air and unroll from their summits fronds ten feet in length;
+fifty kinds of delicate terrestrial ferns display themselves in a single
+morning ride; here are palms with graceful foliage; here are orchids
+stretching forth sprays--three or four feet long--toward the hand for
+plucking; here are pine-trees covering slopes with fragrant fallen
+needles. A striking feature is the different flora on the different
+slopes of a single ridge. Here, too, are bubbling springs, purling
+brooks, dashing cascades, the equals of any in the world. And hither the
+tourist, with his destroying touch, will never come.
+
+We had thought to find our wild Mixes living in miserable huts among the
+rocks, dressed in scanty native garb, leading half wild lives. We found
+good clearings on the hillside; fair fields of maize and peas, gourds
+and calabashes; cattle grazed in the meadows; fowls and turkeys were
+kept; the homes were log-houses, substantially built, in good condition,
+in neat enclosures; men and women, the latter in European dress, were
+busied with the duties of their little farms. Clearing after clearing
+in the forest told the same story of industry, thrift, and moderate
+comfort.
+
+After more than five hours of hard travel we reached the Mixe town of
+Ayutla, and rode at once to the _curato_. The priest was not at home. It
+was market-day, and people were in town from all the country round. The
+men, surprised at sight of strangers, crowded about us; some gazed at us
+with angry glances, others eyed us with dark suspicion, some examined us
+with curious and even friendly interest. Many of them spoke little or no
+Spanish. Thronging about us they felt our clothing, touched our skins,
+saddles, baggage, and exhibited childish curiosity. The women at the
+_curato_ spoke Spanish, of course; we told them we should stay there
+for a day or two, and sent out for the _presidente_. On his coming, we
+explained to him our business and asked leave to occupy the _curato_ in
+the absence of the priest.
+
+Ayutla is situated on a high terrace, before which opens a lovely valley
+and behind which rises a fine mountain slope. The village church, while
+large, is roofless; the town-house lies below the village, and by it
+are two jails for men and women. The houses of the village are small,
+rectangular structures of a red-brown-ochre adobe brick; the roofs slope
+from in front backward, and are covered with red tiles they project in
+front so as to cover a little space before the house.
+
+By evening most of the indians in the town were drunk. At sunset a
+miserable procession started from the church, passed through the
+village, and then returned to the church; composed mostly of women, it
+was preceded by a band of music and the men who carried the _santito_.
+Later, we heard most disconsolate strains, and, on examination, found
+four musicians playing in front of the old church; three of them had
+curious, extremely long, old-fashioned horns of brass, while the fourth
+had a drum or _tambour_. The _tambour_ was continuously played, while
+the other instruments were alternated in the most curious fashion. The
+music was strange and weird, unlike any that we had ever heard before.
+However, we became thoroughly familiar with it before we had traversed
+the whole Mixe country, as we heard it twice daily, at sunrise and after
+sunset. It was the music of the Candelaria, played during the nine days
+preceding February 2d. As we sat listening to the music the _presidente_
+of the town appeared. His Spanish, at no time adequate, was now at its
+worst, as he was sadly intoxicated. We tried to carry on a conversation
+with him, but soon seeing that naught but disaster could be expected, if
+we continued, we discreetly withdrew to our room.
+
+[Illustration: A STREET IN SAN LORENZO]
+
+[Illustration: AYUTLA]
+
+There we found the _fiscal_, and I have rarely seen so drunk an
+official. When drunk, he is violent and abusive, and it was plain that
+the women at the _curato_ were afraid of him. More than one hundred and
+fifty years ago Padre Quintana, who was the mission priest at Juquila,
+translated the _Doctrina_ into Mixe and wrote a _Gramatica_ of the
+language, both of which were then printed. We wished to secure copies of
+these old and rare books, and asked the _fiscal_ if there were any here.
+He promptly replied that he had one at his house, and invited us to go
+there with him to see it. We at once started, and on our way had to pass
+the drunken _presidente_ and the musicians. As we drew near them the
+_presidente_, with drunken dignity, rose and said: "Where are you going,
+Senores?" The _fiscal_ was for going directly onward without giving
+answer; we hesitated and began a reply. Our delay was fatal; staggering
+up to us, his Honor said: "I shall not permit you to go; this man is
+drunk; he will be dangerous. I am responsible for your safety." The
+_fiscal_, standing at a little distance, cried: "Senores! shall we go?"
+We started toward him; the _presidente_ interfered: "No, Senores,
+you shall not go to-night; the man is drunk; return to your house."
+"_Vamonos_," (Let us go) hiccoughed the _fiscal. "Manana_," (to-morrow)
+hiccoughed the _presidente_. The _fiscal_ stormed; the _presidente_
+threatened him with jail, ordered him home, and with a body-guard
+for our protection led us to our room. Scarcely able to totter, the
+_presidente_ assured us that drunken men were dangerous and ought not
+to be trusted; at the same time he produced his bottle and offered us
+a drop to warm us. It required tact and time to get rid of him and
+his corps of protectors. Early the next morning both of these worthy
+officials, _presidente_ and _fiscal_, still drunk, called upon us with
+the book--a _Doctrina_ of 1729. With the _presidente_ were two stalwart
+fellows, intended, as he whispered to us audibly, to handle the
+_fiscal_ in case he became dangerous. The audience ended, and the party
+dismissed, the _presidente_ stood in the road until the _fiscal_ had
+started for home, when he left for the town-house. The _fiscal's_
+home-going, however, was mere pretense. No sooner was the _presidente_
+gone than he came staggering into the _patio_ of the _curato_. The women
+ran into our room, in terror: "The _fiscal_ comes; bar the door; do
+not let him in." A moment later a feeble rap at the door, a call and
+a mournful request for admission; the barricaded door gave no
+encouragement. At intervals through the morning there came the flying
+maids: "He comes! don't let him in." Again and again the barricade;
+again and again, the vain appeal for entrance. We left Ayutla at noon.
+We had scarcely well started when we heard some one calling behind us.
+Turning, we saw the _fiscal_, running unsteadily toward us. We waited;
+he came up out of breath. "_Ya se va_?" (Now you are leaving?) "_Si,
+senor_," (Yes, sir.) With a look of despair he removed his hat, and
+fumbling in its depths produced two cigarettes; presenting one to each
+of us, he waved his hand as we rode away and cried: "_Adios! senores_."
+
+For some distance our road led up a canon. Reaching its head, we gained
+the pass at two o'clock. A wonderful sight here presented itself. Above
+us was a brilliant blue sky--cloudless; every detail of the rock crest
+upon which we stood was clear. Forested to its summit, the ridge formed
+the half of a magnificent amphitheatre, whose slopes had been vertically
+furrowed at a hundred points by torrents; to the left a spur projected,
+the crest of which sloped gently downward, forming an enclosing wall
+upon that side. Before us, beyond the valley, was a boundary line of
+mountain masses, sharply outlined against the sky. Lower ridges, nearer
+to us, paralleled this distant rampart. The only apparent outlet from
+this valley was around the spur to our left. Looking down upon this
+magnificent valley, we saw it occupied by a sea of clouds, the level
+surface of which looked like a lake of water flecked here and there with
+whitecaps. The higher hills within the valley rose like islands from the
+water; to the left a mighty river seemed to flow around the spur, out
+into a boundless sea of cloud beyond. The level surface of this lake,
+river, and sea of clouds was hundreds of feet below us.
+
+From this summit, our trail plunged downward into this sea of mists.
+When we reached its upper surface, which was plainly defined, little
+wisps of mist or cloud were streaming up along the furrowed channels of
+the mountain walls. As we entered the lake of cloud the sunlight became
+fainter, uprushes of cold mists struck us, gloom settled, denser and
+denser grew the fog, drops of condensed vapor dripped from the trees
+under which we passed. At the bottom of the valley, we could scarcely
+see a dozen yards in any direction. We were passing along meadows, like
+those of New England, with brakes, sunflowers, and huckleberries; here
+and there were little fields of wheat or peas. The fog was too dense for
+us to know whether we lost fine scenery. We saw nothing of the little
+villages through which we passed. On and on we plunged along the trail,
+until it began an ascent of a ridge, almost like a knife-edge, with
+steep slopes on both sides. When we had reached the summit of this
+ridge, we found the trail level, through a growth of oak trees which
+were loaded with bromelias and orchids. Though still dim, the light had
+brightened as we rose to higher levels. Graceful ferns and sprays of
+terrestrial orchids overhung our trail at every cutting or slope. One
+spray, which I plucked as I rode under it, was more than a yard in
+length, and its curiously colored brown and yellow flowers were
+strangely like insects in form. At one level summit of our ridge, we
+came upon a little whitewashed building of adobe, dome-topped, with no
+windows and but one little door. Pushing this open, I entered through
+a doorway so narrow that I had to remove my hat, and so low that I was
+forced to bend, and found myself in a little shrine with a cross and
+pictures of two or three saints, before which were plain vases filled
+with fresh flowers, the offerings of travelers. We added our spray of
+orchids before we resumed our journey.
+
+For three hours, during which no distant view had delighted our eyes, we
+had traveled in the mists; we had almost forgotten that the sun could
+shine. At the end of a long, narrow ridge, where it joined the greater
+mountain mass, we found a rest-house. Here the trail turned abruptly
+onto the larger ridge, mounted sharply through a dugway, and then to our
+complete surprise emerged into the fair sunlight. The clear, blue sky
+was over us, and directly below us, at our horses' feet, was the flat
+top of the sea of clouds. A moment more and we rose to a point of view
+from which the grandest view of a lifetime burst upon our vision.
+Opposite, the evening sun was nearing the horizon, before and below us
+lay the valley; we were upon the very edge of a great mountain slope. To
+our right lay the cloud mass, which was all in movement, precipitating
+itself down the slope into the profound valley. It was a river of
+vapors, more than two miles, perhaps, in width, plunging, perhaps, two
+thousand feet into the abyss. Niagara, which I have often seen, is a
+pigmy cataract in comparison. The cloud mass tossed and heaved, whirled
+and poured in one enormous sheet over the precipice, breaking into spray
+as it struck against projecting rock masses. Every movement of whirling
+and plunging water was there; the rapid above the fall, the plunge, the
+whirlpool, the wild rush of whirlpool rapids, all were there, but all
+silent, fearfully and impressively silent. We could have stood there
+gazing for hours, but night was coming and a stretch of unknown road
+still lay before us. At the other end of the valley, in the dusk of
+early evening, we saw a second cataract pouring in. From both ends the
+cloud rivers were rushing in to fill the valley, along the edge of which
+we crept. And presently we plunged down again into the mists; night
+fell; our trail was barely visible, and we had to trust to our horses to
+find it; the air was cold and penetrating. Long after dark, we rode into
+Juquila.
+
+[Illustration: CLOUD CATARACT; NEAR JUQUILA]
+
+[Illustration: DANCERS IN THE DANZA DE LA CONQUISTA; JUQUILA]
+
+The _cura_ had gone to bed; the _meson_ had no room for us and no food
+for our horses; our case seemed desperate. We heard, however, noisy
+laughter and the loud voices of men drinking. So I begged Ernst to
+seek the _presidente_ and tell him our needs while I looked after the
+animals. The official was at the _tienda_, drinking with his friends.
+Ernst made known our wishes, producing our letter from the governor. At
+this, the _presidente_ became furious: "Who is this with orders from the
+governor? Let me kill him," and with that he drew his _machete_ and
+made at Ernst. Some of his less-intoxicated friends restrained him, and
+Ernst, concluding that the moment was not propitious, returned to me.
+After other fruitless efforts to get food for ourselves and animals we
+resigned ourselves to our fate, and lay down upon the stone floor of
+the corridor outside the _meson_, with a crowd of sleeping indians as
+companions.
+
+Very early in the morning, all the town officials, except the
+_presidente_, came to apologize for the occurrence of the night. They
+announced that the _presidente_, realizing what he had done, had taken
+to the mountains, and asked what they could do for us. We ordered fodder
+for our hungry beasts, food for ourselves, and a place of shelter. The
+town-house was offered to us, and we were moved into those quarters with
+due ceremony.
+
+Although we stayed several days at Juquila, the _presidente_ did not
+return, during our presence, to resume his duties of office. We were,
+however, well treated. The _cura_ aided us with advice, information, and
+helpers. While we were in the village the _danza de la Conquista_ took
+place. It is a popular play, with much dancing and music, and little
+action or dialogue, which celebrates the Conquest of Mexico by Cortez.
+It was rendered in the shade of a great tree near the church. In the
+first act, nine men and two girls took part; in the second act, there
+were many others. The nine men and two girls represented Indians; they
+wore crowns with plumes of snow-white down; in their hands they carried
+a rattle, made from the fruit of a tree and a wand of white down, with
+which they beat time. One man, representing Montezuma, had a crown of
+brilliantly colored plumes. The other eight men were warriors; the two
+girls were "_Malinches_." The first act consisted of a series of dances,
+including a very pretty maypole dance. The play lasted about
+three hours, and represented the life of the indians before the
+Conquest--Montezuma in his court, with the amusements celebrated for his
+entertainment. Hearing of the arrival of the Spaniards, he is filled
+with sad forebodings, which the amusements fail to dispel. In the second
+act, Hernando Cortez appears, with soldiers. While the costumes of the
+indians were gay, and more or less attractive, those of these European
+warriors were ludicrously mongrel and unbecoming. The new-comers
+demanded that Montezuma acknowledge the authority of the King of Spain
+and the cross of Christ. Conversations, demands, replies, tableaus,
+sword-dances, etc., ensued. Finally, Montezuma and his warriors yielded,
+and kissed the crucifix.
+
+[Illustration: ROAD APPROACHING QUEZALTEPEC]
+
+While this drama was being enacted under the shade-tree, another
+amusement, in connection with the _fiesta of_ _San Marcos_, was in
+progress in front of the church. The musicians with the long horns made
+doleful music; a dozen gayly-costumed dancers took part. They wore dark
+trousers slitted up the sides; bright kerchiefs, with the point hanging
+down in front, were tied about the waists; crowns of plumes were on
+the heads; red vests and kerchiefs, crossed at the neck, completed the
+costume. One player, who seemed to be a leader, carried a tri-colored
+flag; another represented a man on horseback, by creeping into a frame
+of sticks, covered with cloth, in the shape of a horse. They danced in
+the full sunlight for hours; their movements were varied and pretty,
+quite different, too, from the figures in the _danza de la Conquista_.
+Two outside characters played the clown. One of these was a little lad
+dressed in a garment representing a tiger-skin, while over his face he
+wore a heavy, old wooden mask, imitating an animal's head. The other
+was older, dressed in a leather suit, with a wooden mask like a
+vacant-looking human face. These two were very popular, and indulged
+in many acts that bordered on the obscene. We got no satisfactory
+explanation of this whole performance. The _cura_ said that it
+represented the conflict between Christ and the Jews; this we greatly
+doubted.
+
+Mixe roads avoid no mountains, and usually go straight up one slope and
+down the other. The Mixe villages are set upon the very crests, or upon
+little terraces a few hundred feet below the crest, or the summit of
+some spur that juts out from the great mountain mass, of a long and
+narrow ridge. The road from Juquila, by Ocotopec to Quezaltepec was
+beautiful and typical. The ascent, just before Quezaltepec, was
+magnificent. We had a letter of introduction from the _cura_ at Juquila
+to the schoolteacher at Quezaltepec, and therefore rode directly to the
+school. The four boys who were in attendance were promptly dismissed and
+the _maestro_ was at our disposition. He was a _mestizo_, and possessed
+the art of lying in a fine degree, like so many of his kind. This man
+set us an excellent supper, having asked us beforehand what we would
+like. We replied that we would be glad to have fresh meat, if there was
+any to be had. He replied, "There is always fresh meat here; someone
+kills every day." It really appeared in the dinner, but, as we ate it,
+our host remarked--"Gentlemen, it is indeed lucky that you arrived here
+just now, because to-night we have fresh meat, and like enough a month
+will pass before anyone in town kills again." Our teacher friend fully
+appreciated his opportunity, and we paid a large price for our meal,
+with its fresh meat, our beds on the school benches, and the fodder
+supplied our horses. The next day being Saturday, the _maestro_ offered
+to accompany us to Ixcuintepec, where his half-brother, the local
+teacher, would welcome our coming and arrange for our entertainment.
+
+Passing Camotlan, we entered a magnificent gorge, along one side of
+which we climbed, passing in front of lovely cascades and having
+magnificent outlooks. While we were on this trail, we encountered the
+_maestro_ from Ixcuintepec, who was on his way to Quezaltepec to spend
+his holiday. A whispered word with his half-brother, our companion,
+quickly changed his plan, and he accompanied us. Upon this trail we
+found our first swinging foot-bridges made of _lianas_, or vines,
+hanging from trees. These are, of course, only suitable for
+foot-travellers, but are a great convenience, where streams are likely
+to be swollen. Two or three long and slender vines, laid side by side
+and lashed together, form the footway, which is swung from one tree to
+another; other _lianas_ are stretched across as side rails, smaller
+vines being twined in between and around them to hold them in place;
+long vines, pendant from the high branches of the supporting trees, are
+fastened to the upper rails to steady and anchor these frail bridges,
+which swing and yield with every weight.
+
+[Illustration: TREE FERN IN TROPICAL FOREST; QUEZALTEPEC]
+
+[Illustration: CASCADE, NEAR QUEZALTEPEC]
+
+Ixcuintepec is upon one of the most abrupt ridges of this whole
+district. We went first to the schoolhouse, where our animals were to
+be guarded in a little open space before it; then we walked over to
+the _curato_ which was being prepared for us. We had ordered _zacate_
+(fodder) for our animals and had divided it suitably between them. We
+ate our own meal, took a turn around the town, and were about to go to
+our quarters for the night, when Ernst noticed that the fodder, for
+which we had paid an outrageous price, had completely disappeared from
+before the two horses, although the pile before the mule had diminished
+but little. No doubt the two school teachers could have explained this
+mysterious disappearance; we could not, however, tax them with theft,
+but we made so much fuss over the matter that the officials brought a
+new supply. While I went to our room to write up my notes, Ernst sat in
+the gathering darkness watching the animals, as they ate, to prevent
+further robbery. I was busily writing, listening now and then to the
+fierce gusts of a gale that was blowing without, when the door burst
+open and Ernst, greatly excited, called me to follow, and we hastened
+to the place where our animals were tied. There we found that the great
+tree under which Chontal, the little mule, had been feeding, had been
+torn by the tempest and half of it had fallen upon the animal, bearing
+it to the ground. The crash had come without a moment's warning.
+Fortunately, the mule was unhurt, though it could not move until the
+branches which had crushed it to the earth had been cut away with axes.
+When we had released the beast and were retiring to our quarters, we
+saw a sight never to be forgotten. Looking down from our crest into the
+valley and across upon the other ridges and mountains beyond, we saw
+that the camp-fires of charcoal-burners and wayfarers had been fanned
+by the winds and spread into the forest until a dozen great lines of
+blazing trees lit up the landscape in every direction.
+
+Our leaving Ixcuintepec in the early morning was not agreeable. The
+teachers were irritated over the affair of the _zacate_; the town
+authorities were dissatisfied with our refusal to pay for two lots of
+it. There was grumbling, and many dark looks followed us. We were rather
+glad to get away from the town without a serious outbreak. We were now
+on the road to the last of the Mixe towns we should visit, Coatlan. The
+road seemed endless, the ascent interminable; the town itself impressed
+us as exceptionally mean and squalid, and we stopped only long enough
+to eat a miserable dinner of eggs with chili and _tortillas_. The women
+here wore native dress. Several were clad as the Zapotec women from here
+to Tehuantepec, but a few were dressed in striking _huipilis_ of native
+weaving, with embroidered patterns, and had their black hair done up in
+great rings around their heads, bright strips of cloth or ribbon being
+intermingled in the braiding. Literally and figuratively shaking the
+dust of the Mixe towns from our feet, we now descended into the Zapotec
+country. We were oppressed by a cramped, smothered feeling as we
+descended from the land of forested mountains and beautiful streams. At
+evening we reached San Miguel, the first Zapotec settlement, a little
+group of houses amid coffee plantings.
+
+[Illustration: FIESTA OF SAN MARCOS; JUQUILA]
+
+[Illustration: BRIDGE OF VINES, NEAR IXCUINTEPEC]
+
+At the first indian house, we asked if we might have shelter for the
+night. The owner cordially answered, "_Como no? senores_," (Why not?
+sirs). He explained, however, that there was nought to eat. After eating
+elsewhere, we made our way back to our lodging-place, a typical Zapotec
+hut, a single room, with dirt-floor, walls of canes or poles, and thatch
+of grass. The house contained a hammock and two beds of poles, comforts
+we had not known for days. I threw myself into the hammock; Ernst lay
+down upon one of the beds; the man and woman, squatting, were husking
+corn for our horses; a little girl was feeding a fire of pine splints,
+built upon the floor, which served for light. As they worked and
+we rested the man asked that question which ever seems of supreme
+importance to Mexican indians, "_Como se llama Ud. senor_?" (What is
+your name, sir?). "Ernst," replied our spokesman, to whom the question
+was addressed. "_Y el otro_?" (And the other?), pointing to me. I
+replied for myself, "_Federico_." The man seemed not to catch the word
+and badly repeated it after me. "_No, no_," said the much quicker
+woman, "_Federico! Federico! si, senor, nosotros tenemos un Federico,
+tambien_," (Yes, sir, and we have a Frederick, also). "Ah, and where is
+he?" "He will come, sir; we have four boys, Luca and Pedrito, Castolo
+and Federico; Federico is the baby; the little girl, here, is between
+him and Castolo; they are working in the coffee-field, but they will
+soon be here." At nine o'clock the little fellows appeared. They lined
+up in the order of age, placed their hands behind them, and waited to be
+addressed. Castolo, then about ten years of age, most pleased me, and
+I asked him, among other things, whether he could read and write. His
+father answered for him, that he could not read or write; that the
+opportunities were not good; but that he believed Castolo _could_ learn,
+that he had a good mind. At this point the mother spoke to her husband
+in Zapotec. Some argument ensued, in which at last she triumphed.
+Turning to me, the man said: "She says you may have Castolo; you may
+take him to your country and there he can learn to read and write and
+whatever else you wish." It was not altogether easy to refuse this gift;
+finally I replied that we had a long journey ahead and that Castolo
+would weary on the road; that he had better wait until some later time.
+
+It was now time for the family to dispose of itself for the night. I was
+already in the hammock and Ernst had one of the pole-beds; the man, his
+wife, and little Federico occupied the other bed; the little girl and
+the three older boys climbed, by a notched log, up to a loft constructed
+of poles or canes on which they laid themselves down. After all were
+located, the woman barred the door and we were soon asleep.
+
+All rose early. Not only did we wish to make an early start, but the
+boys, too, were to make a journey. Our friends had agreed to make us
+some coffee and _tortillas_. We had made our preparations for starting
+and were waiting for our breakfast, when a shriveled and wrinkled
+old woman tottered up to beg the strangers to visit her sick son and
+prescribe some _remedio_. On our consenting to go with her, she caught
+up a stick of fat pine, lighted it in the fire, and with this blazing
+torch to light the way, preceded us to her house. Her son had been a
+strong and robust young man, but four months of lying upon his pole-bed
+had sadly reduced him. He was thin and pale, coughed sadly, and suffered
+with fever, chills, and dreadful headaches. He was taking medicines
+brought from Tehuantepec, but these seemed to have no effect and we were
+begged to suggest treatment. We advised continuance of the remedy she
+had been using, but also prescribed hot water taken in the morning and
+at night, hot water applications for the headaches, quinine for the
+chills and fever, and a digestive for the stomach trouble, and furnished
+these remedies from our own supplies. Having lighted us back to our
+lodging-place the old lady asked our charge. When we refused to receive
+payment from the poor creature, we noted an increased activity on the
+part of our host and hostess; a bit of cheese was promptly found and
+added to the waiting coffee and _tortillas_, and when we called for our
+own reckoning, we received the hearty response--"_Nada, senor, nada_;"
+(nothing, sir, nothing) "and when you come this way again, come straight
+to us, our door is always open to you."
+
+[Illustration: SANTIAGO GUEVEA]
+
+We were now ready and found that the three boys, Luca, Pedrito, and
+Castolo, were waiting to accompany us as far as our roads were the same.
+They were to go on foot, five leagues, into the mountains to bring back
+some mules from a camp; they expected to reach their destination that
+day, to sleep on the mountain, and to bring in the animals the next day.
+The little fellows, from thirteen to nine or ten years old, seemed to
+find nothing extraordinary in their undertaking; each carried his little
+carrying-net, with food, drinking-gourd, and an extra garment for the
+chilly night, upon his back; Pedrito buckled to his belt the great
+_machete_, which men here regularly carry for clearing the path, cutting
+firewood, or protection against animals. They were very happy at
+accompanying us for a distance. We soon rose from the low, malarial,
+coffee _fincas_ onto a fine mountain, which was the last of its kind
+that we saw for many days; it was like the mountains of the Mixes,
+with its abundant vegetation of ferns, begonias, and trees loaded with
+bromelias and orchids. Our bodyguard kept up with us bravely until we
+had made one-half of the ascent, where they fell behind and we saw them
+no more. Reaching the summit, we saw before us a distant line of blue,
+interrupted here and there by some hill or mountain,--the great Pacific.
+From here on, the beauty of the road disappeared. We descended and then
+mounted along dry slopes to Santiago Guevea, then hot and dusty. Our
+friends of San Miguel really live in Guevea and are at San Miguel only
+when the coffee needs attention. From Guevea the road was hard and dry
+and dusty to Santa Maria. The mountain mass over which we passed was
+a peak, the summit of which was covered with masses of chalcedony of
+brilliant colors, which broke into innumerable splinters, which were
+lovely to see but hard upon the feet of horses; the surface of this part
+also gave out a glare or reflection that was almost intolerable. We
+descended over granite which presented typical spheroidal weathering.
+We went onward, up and down many little hills, reaching Santa Maria at
+noonday. The village sweltered; the air scorched and blistered; there
+was no sign of life, save a few naked children playing in the shade or
+rolling upon the hot sand. It was so hot and dusty that we hated to
+resume our journey and tarried so long that we had to ride after
+nightfall before we reached the _rancho_ of Los Cocos, where we lay in
+the corridor and all night long heard the grinding of sugar-cane at the
+mill close by.
+
+We had just such another hard, hot, and dusty ride the next day,
+on through Auyuga and Tlacotepec, where we stopped for noon, until
+Tehuantepec, where we arrived at evening.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV
+
+THROUGH CHIAPAS
+
+(1896)
+
+
+Tehuantepec is meanly built; it is hot and dusty, and the almost
+constant winds drive the dust in clouds through the streets. But its
+picturesque market is a redeeming feature. Every morning it is crowded
+and presents a brilliant and lively spectacle. All the trade is in the
+hands of women, and the Tehuantepec women have the reputation of being
+the handsomest in the world. They are large, finely-built, and in their
+movements exhibit an indescribable freedom and grace. Their natural
+attractions are set off by a characteristic and becoming costume. The
+_huipilili_ is a little sleeveless waist, loose at the neck and arms,
+and so short that it rarely reaches to the waist-line, to which, of
+course, it is supposed to extend; it is of bright cotton--red, brown,
+purple, with stripes or spots of white--and is stitched at the neck with
+yellow silk. The _enagua_, or skirt, is a strip of heavy cotton cloth,
+less than a yard wide, which is simply wrapped around the figure and
+hangs from the waist, being held in place by a brightly colored belt or
+girdle. The _enagua_ is usually a rich red, but it is sometimes a fine
+violet purple. It reaches but little below the knees. It generally fails
+to meet the _huipilili_ above, so that a broader or narrower band of
+fine, dark brown separates the two garments. Nothing is worn on the
+feet, which are exposed, as are also the finely shaped and beautifully
+developed arms. But the most striking article in the Tehuantepec
+woman's costume is her _huipil_, which travellers usually describe as
+a head-dress, although it is nothing of the kind. It is in reality a
+waist-garment with sleeves. It is made of lace or cotton, or linen, and
+is bordered at the neck, the sleeves, and the lower margin with broad
+ruffs of pleated lace. Only at church or on some important or ceremonial
+occasion is the _huipil_ worn as it was meant to be. Usually at church
+the wearer draws the garment over her upper body, but does not put her
+arms into the sleeves, nor her head through the neck-opening, simply
+fitting her face into this in such a way that it appears to be framed in
+a broad, oval, well-starched border of pleated lace. Usually, however,
+the garment is not even worn in this manner, but is turned upside down
+and carelessly hung upon the head so that the broad lower fringe of lace
+falls back upon the hair, while the upper part of the garment, with the
+sleeves, the collar, and cuff-ruffs, hangs down upon the back. The whole
+effect is that of a fine crest rising from the head, coursing down the
+back, and moving with the breeze as the woman walks. These Zapotec women
+are fond of decoration, but particularly prize gold coins. In the past,
+when Tehuantepec was more important than now, it was no uncommon thing
+to see a woman in this market with several hundred dollars in gold coins
+hanging to her neck chain. In these later days of little trade and
+harder times, these once prized decorations have been spent, and it
+is rare to see any woman wearing more than twenty to fifty dollars as
+display.
+
+[Illustration: READY FOR CHURCH; TEHUANTEPEC]
+
+[Illustration: THE WIDE ROAD; TEHUANTEPEC TO JUCHITAN]
+
+Resuming our journey, we struck out upon the highway which parallels
+the coast. Almost immediately, the road changed from a fair country
+cart-road to a road remarkable at once for its straightness, breadth and
+levelness. It was, however, dreadfully hot and dusty, and was
+bordered on both sides with a tiresome and monotonous growth of low,
+thorn-bearing trees, with occasional clumps of palms. We ate dinner at
+Juchitan, in a little eating-house conducted by a _Japanese_! A little
+beyond that important indian centre, we saw a puma pace forth from the
+thicket; with indescribably graceful and slow tread it crossed the dusty
+road and disappeared in the thicket. In the morning we had startled
+flocks of parrots, which rose with harsh cries, hovered while we passed,
+and then resettled on the same trees where they had been before. In the
+evening we saw pairs of macaws flying high, and as they flew over our
+heads they looked like black crosses sharp against the evening sky. At
+evening we reached Guvino, a dreadful town, in the population of which
+there seems to be a negro strain. We stopped with the _presidente_, in
+whose veins flowed Spanish, indian, and negro blood. In his one-roomed
+house besides ourselves there slept the owner, his wife, two daughters,
+one with a six-weeks baby, a son, and two young men--friends of the
+family.
+
+Turning north the next day, onto the Niltepec road, we wandered from our
+trail, losing five leagues of space and more than three hours of time.
+The country through which we passed was terribly dry; there were
+no running streams. We crossed the bed of one dried river after
+another--streaks of sand and pebbles. The people in the villages near
+these dried river-beds dug holes a foot or two deep into this sand and
+gravel and thus got water. At the place where we camped for the night,
+Suspiro Ranch, a new house was being palm-thatched. All the men and boys
+of the neighborhood were helping; the labor was carefully divided; some
+were bringing in great bundles of the palm leaves; others pitched these
+up to the thatchers, who were skilfully fitting them under and over the
+poles of the roof framework and then beating them firmly home. Many of
+the helpers had come considerable distances and spent the night, so that
+we shared our room with quite a dozen men and boys, while the women and
+children slept in another house.
+
+Passing through Zanatepec, we stopped for Sunday at Tanatepec. Here we
+found ourselves again upon the low coast road. It was, however, our last
+point of low altitude, as from there we struck inland over a higher,
+cooler, and more interesting mountain road. At Zanatepec we first saw
+the _marimba_ played. This musical instrument, unquestionably African
+in name and origin, is hardly found north of Chiapas, but is extremely
+common through Central America. It consists of a wooden frame supporting
+keys made of wood and metal, each of which gives forth its own note when
+struck with small hammers. Below the keys of lowest tone are hung tubes,
+pipes, or gourds, as sounding boxes to increase the sound produced by
+striking the key. Usually four players perform at one time, each using
+two or more little hammers. The music is rapid and brilliant, somewhat
+resembling that of the piano. The instrument usually has some fanciful
+name, which is painted upon it. The one at Tanatepec was _La Azteca_
+(The Aztec Lady), while our next one was _La reina de las flores_ (The
+queen of the flowers). At Zanatepec, _La Azteca_ was an advertising
+part of a traveling circus. The troupe consisted of three men and
+three women, the latter of whom seemed to be mulattos. The men were
+ridiculously garbed and painted to represent wild indians. The real,
+live indians, who followed these clowns in delighted crowds, enjoyed
+thrills of terror at their whoops, fierce glances, and wild antics,
+and assured us that these actors were, if not the real thing, at least
+wonderfully accurate impersonations of the natives of the _Estados
+unidos_ (United States)--the land of the "Apaches."
+
+From Tanatepec we were in Chiapas, the southernmost state of the
+republic. We struck out over a fine mountain road, _passable for carts_
+all the way to Tuxtla Gutierrez, the capital of the state. Our first
+ascent was over a magnificent mountain mass of syenite, which at some
+places seemed to be as fine as our own Quincy stone. The road, with many
+short zigzags, made a remarkably abrupt ascent, and, having reached the
+crest, wound like a vast serpent along the summit. As we descended into
+the following valley, we encountered a beautiful deer, which stood in
+the middle of the road, eyeing us with curiosity, until we were almost
+upon it, when it dashed into the thicket and then stopped to again eye
+us. Upon attaining the second summit we were amid pines. All day we had
+had a wind in our faces, cold and so strong as to almost blow us from
+the narrow ridge, yet the sky was cloudless. Looking back from our
+summit, a magnificent view to the ocean was spread before us. Below us
+were the mountains over which we had come, then a valley broken with
+mountains of a lesser size; beyond, was the dry, coastal plain, and yet
+beyond it, the sea. The dark green pines, the blue sky, the brown hills,
+the gray plain, the stretch of blue-green waters, made a wonderful color
+combination.
+
+The next two days were most uninteresting. We were often reminded of
+the recent threat of war between Mexico and Guatemala, the disputed
+border-line between which we were now nearing. We met marching bands of
+soldiers who were returning to Juchitan. Officers were on horses,
+common soldiers on foot, pack-mules were laden with luggage, the women
+(accompanying their husbands) were weighed down with coffee-pots,
+bundles of clothes, and babies, all strapped on their backs together.
+They were a motley crew. At Jiquipilas a company was encamped in the
+plaza. Our mule, Chontal, took particular delight in running into such
+bands of marching soldiers as we encountered, causing no end of trouble.
+On one occasion, as a group approached us, he ran forward at a
+lively pace into their midst and tangled himself up with a party of
+prisoners,--apparently soldiers in disgrace,--who, tied together with
+ropes, were under guard. As we rode up to capture him, I felt a hand at
+that coat pocket which contained our money-bag and, turning suddenly,
+found one of the guard trying to draw the bag of money from my pocket. I
+struck at him with my whip and he slunk away.
+
+The last day of travel before reaching Tuxtla Gutierrez, we passed one
+of the few pretty places on this dreary road, Agua Bendita. At this
+point the road makes a great curve, almost like a horseshoe; at the
+middle of this curve there rises to the right of the road a wall of
+limestone rock the plainly defined strata of which are thrown into a
+gentle anticlinal fold. The upper layers of this arch were covered with
+shrubs, clinging to its face, while the lower layers were tapestried
+with a curtain of delicate ferns, which hung down over the open arch
+below, under which the road passed. Water trickled through this
+limestone mass and dripped and collected in little basins, which had
+been excavated in the ledge close by the roadside. Some grateful passer
+had set up little crosses by the water pools, and they were gay that day
+with purple orchids plucked from a near-by tree. In this tree, amid the
+brilliant clumps of yet unplucked blossoms of the orchids, were a number
+of toucans with their enormous, brightly colored bills--the _picos de
+canoa_ (canoe beaks) of the people.
+
+Tuxtla Gutierrez is a town of some thousands population, with a central
+plaza where the local band plays almost every evening, and a market
+place of exceptional interest. Here, as nowhere else, we saw crowds of
+the purest indians in native dress. Chiapas is the home of at least
+thirteen tribes, each with its own language. Among the most interesting
+indians we saw in the market were the Tzotzils, from Chamula, who wore
+heavy, black woolen garments. The indians of the town and its immediate
+vicinity are Zoques.
+
+Few Mexican governors possess the breadth of view and the intelligent
+enterprise of Governor Leon, whom we encountered here. A man of middle
+age, of fair stature though slight in build, with dark complexion,
+iron-gray hair, beard and whiskers carefully trimmed after the French
+fashion, his appearance creates a favorable impression. He did
+everything in his power for our comfort and assistance, and supplied us
+with letters to the _jefes politicos_ of the districts through which we
+were to pass. We congratulated him upon the cart-road over which we
+had come from Zanatepec, an important public work for this part of the
+world; he told us he began it three years ago with a force of but nine
+men; that it would be extended to San Cristobal and San Bartolome; that
+he was no engineer, but that he could tell quite well when a road was
+passable for a cart. We found him greatly interested in a congress
+which he had called of persons interested in labor questions. Among the
+questions which he hoped to see considered was the abolition of the
+system of _peonage,_ which still exists in full development in the
+state.
+
+Less than three leagues from Tuxtla Gutierrez is Chiapa, famous for the
+brightly painted gourds and calabash vessels there manufactured and
+sent out to all parts of the republic. Toys, rattles, cups, and great
+bowl-basins are among the forms produced. We visited a house where five
+women were making pretty rattles from little crook-necked gourds. The
+workers sat upon the floor, with their materials and tools before them.
+The first one rubbed the body of the dry gourds over with an oil paint.
+These paints are bought in bulk and mixed upon a flat slab, with a
+fine-grained, smooth, hard pebble as a grinder, with _aje_ and a white
+earth dug near the road between Chiapa and Tuxtla Gutierrez. The _aje_
+is a yellow, putty-like mass which gives a brilliant, lacquer-like
+lustre; the white earth causes the color to adhere to the surface to
+which it is applied. The second woman rubbed the neck of the gourd with
+green paint; the third painted the line of junction of the two colors
+with white, using a brush; the fourth brought out the lustre of the
+before dull object by rubbing it upon a pad of cotton cloth upon
+her knee, giving a final touch by careful rubbing with a tuft of
+cotton-wool; with a brush, the final worker rapidly painted on the
+lustrous surface delicate floral or geometric decoration. Though
+representing so much delicate and ingenious labor, these pretty toys
+were sold at the price of two for a _medio_ (three cents in United
+States currency).
+
+The _aje_ which gives the brilliant lustre to this work deserves more
+than a passing notice. It is made chiefly at San Bartolome and is
+secured from an insect, a sort of plant-louse, which lives upon the
+blackthorn and related trees. The insect is found only in the wet
+season, is small, though growing rapidly, and is of a fiery-red color,
+though it coats itself over with a white secretion. It lives in swarms,
+which form conspicuous masses. These are gathered in vessels, washed
+to remove the white secretion, boiled, crushed, and strained through a
+cloth; an oily matter, mixed with blood (?) and water passes out, which
+is boiled to drive off the water and to concentrate the oily mass. This
+is then washed in trays, to rid it of the blood, and made up into balls,
+which are sold at ten or twelve _centavos_ (five or six cents) a pound.
+It is a putty-like substance, with a handsome yellow color. We have
+already stated that it is ground up with dry paints to be rubbed on
+the object which is to be adorned, and that the brilliant lustre is
+developed by gentle and rapid friction.
+
+[Illustration: ZAPOTEC WOMAN; SAN BLAS]
+
+[Illustration: CASE OF WHITE PINTO; TUXITA GUTIERREZ]
+
+_Pinto_, a spotting or discoloring of the skin, is a common disease in
+many parts of Mexico. Three varieties are recognized--white, red, and
+blue or purple. The disease is particularly frequent in the states
+of Guerrero and Chiapas, and we had heard that it was very common
+in Chiapa. Perhaps twenty per cent of the population really has the
+disease; at San Bartolome perhaps seventy-five per cent are affected; in
+some towns an even larger proportion is reported. The white form appears
+the commonest. One subject examined at Tuxtla Gutierrez was a woman some
+sixty years of age. At birth she showed no symptom of the trouble, but
+spots began to appear when she was seven or eight years old. She was
+naturally dark, and the white spots were in notable contrast to her
+normal color; the spots increased in number and in size until her face
+and arms looked as if they had been white and become brown-spotted,
+instead of _vice versa_. After she was forty years of age her spots
+varied but little. The cause of this disease is still obscure, although
+several treatises have been written upon it. Authorities do not even
+agree as to the sequence of the forms of the disease, if there be such
+sequence. Some assert that the white form is the early stage and that
+the disease may never progress beyond it; others assert that the white
+spots are merely the permanent scars, left after the disappearance
+of the disease itself. Maps of distribution seem to show a distinct
+relation of the disease to altitude and character of water-supply. The
+common herd attribute it to an insect sting, to drinking of certain
+water, or to bathing in certain pools. Usually, there is no pain or
+danger connected with the trouble, except in the red form, but if the
+person affected changes residence, itching and some discomfort may
+temporarily ensue. The _presidente_ at Chiapa took us to the jail, where
+the prisoners were filed before us and made to hold out hands and feet
+for our inspection. Such cases of _pinto_ as were found were somewhat
+carefully examined. All we encountered there were of the white variety.
+Later, at private houses, we saw some dreadful cases of the purple form.
+Very often, those whose faces were purple-blotched had white-spotted
+hands and feet.
+
+We had not planned to stop at Acala, but after a hard ride over a dreary
+road and a ferrying across a wide and deep river in a great dugout canoe
+thirty feet or more in length--our animals swimming alongside--we found
+our beasts too tired for further progress. And it was a sad town. How
+strange, that beautifully clear and sparkling mountain water often
+produces actual misery among an ignorant population! Scarcely had we
+dismounted at our lodging place, when a man of forty, an idiot and
+goitrous, came to the door and with sadly imperfectly co-ordinated
+movements, gestured a message which he could not speak. Almost as soon
+as he had gone a deaf-mute boy passed. As we sat at our doorway, we saw
+a half-witted child at play before the next house. Goitre, deaf-mutism,
+and imbecility, all are fearfully common, and all are relatedly due to
+the drinking water.
+
+To us, sitting at the door near dusk, a song was borne upon the evening
+breeze. Nearer and nearer it came, until we saw a group of twelve or
+fifteen persons, women in front, men and children behind, who sang as
+they walked. Some aided themselves with long staves; all carried burdens
+of clothing, food, utensils; all were wearied and footsore with the long
+journey, but full of joy and enthusiasm, as they were nearing their
+destination--a famous shrine. Passing us, they journeyed onward to an
+open space at the end of town, where, with many others who had reached
+there sooner, they camped for the night. The next day we constantly
+passed such parties of pilgrims; coming or going to this shrine which
+lay a little off the road between Acala and San Bartolome. In one group,
+we counted ninety pilgrims.
+
+[Illustration: RIVER BETWEEN CHIAPA AND ACALA]
+
+[Illustration: THE INDIAN GOVERNMENT AT SAN BARTOLOME]
+
+We had been told that San Bartolome was full of goitre, and we really
+found no lack of cases. It is said that forty years ago it was far more
+common than now, and that the decrease has followed the selection of a
+new water source and the careful piping of the water to the town. In the
+population of two thousand, it was estimated that there might be two
+hundred cases, fifty of which were notable. None, however, was so
+extraordinary as that of which several told us, the late _secretario_ of
+the town, who had a goitre of such size that, when he sat at the table
+to write, he had to lift the swelling with both hands and place it on
+the table before he began work. The former prevalence of the disease is
+abundantly suggested by the frequency of deaf-mutes, a score or more
+of whom live here--all children of goitrous parents. Bad as was San
+Bartolome, it seemed to us surpassed by San Antonio, where we found
+the disease in an aggravated form, while at Nenton, our first point in
+Guatemala, every one appeared affected, although we saw no dreadful
+cases.
+
+San Bartolome is an almost purely indian town, where for the first time
+our attention was called to the two sets of town officials--indian and
+_ladino_. The indian town government consisted of four Indians of pure
+blood, who wore the native costume. This, here, is characteristic, both
+for men and women. The men wore wide-legged trousers of native woven
+cotton, and an upper jacket-shirt, square at the bottom, made of the
+same stuff, with designs--rosettes, flowers, geometrical figures, birds,
+animals, or men--wrought in them in red, green, or yellow wools; about
+the waist was a handsome brilliant native belt, while a bright kerchief
+was twisted about the head. The men were well-built, but the _alcalde_
+was a white _pinto_. Women wore _huipilis_, waist-garments, sometimes
+thick and heavy, at others thin and open, in texture, but in both cases
+decorated with lines of brightly colored designs. Their _enaguas_,
+skirts, were of heavy indigo-blue stuff or of plain white cotton, of two
+narrow pieces sewed together and quite plain except for a line of bright
+stitching along the line of juncture. As among other indian tribes, this
+cloth was simply wrapped around the figure and held in place by a belt.
+The town is famous for its weaving and dyeing; the loom is the simple,
+primitive device used all through Mexico long before the Conquest.
+We were surprised to find that the designs in colored wools are not
+embroidered upon the finished fabric, but are worked in with bits of
+worsted during the weaving.
+
+From San Bartolome to Comitan, the road passes over a curious lime
+deposit, apparently formed by ancient hot waters; it is a porous tufa
+which gave back a hollow sound under the hoofs of our horses. It
+contains moss, leaves, and branches, crusted with lime, and often forms
+basin terraces, which, while beautiful to see, were peculiarly harsh and
+rough for our animals. But the hard, and far more ancient, limestone,
+onto which we then passed, was quite as bad. At the very summit of
+one hill of this we found a cave close by the road; entering it, we
+penetrated to a distance of perhaps seventy-five feet, finding the roof
+hung with stalactites and the walls sheeted with stalagmite. Just after
+leaving this cave, we met a tramp on foot, ragged, weary, and dusty, and
+with a little bundle slung upon a stick over his shoulder. He accosted
+me in Spanish, asking whence we had come; on my reply, probably catching
+my foreign accent, he winked and said in plain English,--"Yes? And where
+are you going, pard?"
+
+After a hard day's ride, over a shut-in road, destitute of fine views,
+we reached the crest overlooking Comitan. The descent was almost
+precipitous. The town, better built and more compact than most, was
+situated near the foot of the hill; near it, on a terrace, was the
+cemetery. On the level road, stretching to a long distance from the
+town, we saw lines of hundreds of pack-mules, dwarfed by distance. South
+from the town stretched a grassy plain, bordered here and there with
+pine trees. Back of this plain rose round-topped hills, and beyond
+them were again the blue mountains; far in the distance, behind these,
+towered the mighty crests of the Guatemalan Sierra Madre.
+
+The town was crowded, as the annual _feria_ (fair) was in progress, and
+it was with difficulty that we found a room to sleep in, going for our
+meals to one of the many temporary eating-places in the plaza. Comitan
+is the last town of consequence in Mexico, and has wide fame on account
+of its spirits, known at _comiteco_. This drink, of enormous strength,
+distilled from coarse, brown sugar (_panela,_) is a favorite in
+Guatemala, and its smuggling across the border, though risky, is a
+lucrative business. There are scores of little distilleries in the town,
+many of them belonging to and conducted by women.
+
+Mexican paper money is useless between Tuxtla Gutierrez and Comitan. At
+the latter city it may be exchanged for silver, but with difficulty.
+From here on we found no copper in circulation, and before reaching
+Comitan we had begun to receive Guatemalan silver in our change. Fully
+thirty leagues from the border we ceased to receive Mexican silver from
+anyone. This notable displacement of Mexican currency seems curious,
+because Guatemalan money is at a heavy discount in comparison with it.
+At San Bartolome we sent a soldier-police to buy _zacate_, giving him
+Mexican money. He brought back two Guatemalan pieces in change, and on
+our objecting to receive it, assured me, not only that the money was
+good, but also that here the people were Guatemalans. "Here," said he,
+"not Mexico: here we are all Carrera's people." This, of course, was
+sheer treason. Carrera, the pure-blood indian who in the stirring days
+of 1839 seized the power in Guatemala, a strange and wild being who had
+a real love for his country, has left a profound impression. At times an
+exile, he had lived at Comitan, where his name was familiar to all the
+indians around. His coins are much prized by the indians for necklaces
+and earrings, and even at Tehuantepec we had seen women wearing his
+little gold pieces in their ears.
+
+It should have been an easy matter to go from Comitan to Nenton (in
+Guatemala) in a single day. As it was, we made it with great difficulty
+in two, our mule Chontal apparently being completely worn out. We
+crossed the _llano_, passed through patches of pines, and then came out
+upon a terrible country of limestone hills. In our last day's journey we
+had to coax, threaten, beat, drag, and push that mule until our voices
+were gone and our arms were tired. Immediately on passing the line into
+Guatemala, we found the telegraph wires cut and poles down, a result of
+the late unpleasantness with Mexico. The mountain mass before us, which
+had been in view for two days past, loomed up frightfully before us.
+Would our little mule be able to pass it? We remembered what an American
+tramp, whom we had met at Tuxtla Gutierrez and who had walked on foot
+from Guatemala City, had said: "Between Nenton and Huehuetenango you
+will pass over a mountain that will make your heart sick; may God help
+you." Just at dusk we looked down upon Nenton in a little valley, with a
+fine stream crossed by a pretty bridge, where mountains rose steeply on
+every side. Having been registered by the custom officials, we slept
+that night, our first in the new republic, in the municipal house.
+
+Next morning we started bravely, the whole town having assembled to
+see us off. We safely reached the foot of the mountain, where the mule
+stopped and braced himself. We spoke kindly, coaxed, dragged, but all
+to no effect. Finally he started, but three times within the next few
+minutes, he and we went through the same procedure. Patience had ceased
+to be a virtue; we held a serious consultation. Ernst asserted that by
+placing the rope over the nostrils of the animal and then leading, he
+must move. We tried the experiment. The beast gave a snort, a groan,
+lurched, fell over, kicked convulsively, closed his eyes, and lay to all
+appearance dead. The town below, which had been watching progress, came
+running up. We removed the halter; the animal lay quiet. The pity of
+the by-standers was maddening; their remarks exasperating. "Poor little
+mule, he dies;" they pointed to his rubbed sides,--"Ah, poor creature!
+What a heavy load! How thin he is." It is certain that the best mule in
+the town was in far worse condition, and as for food, Chontal had eaten
+more the night before than our two horses put together. Having exhausted
+their vocabulary of sympathy, our friends left us, as the "poor little
+animal" showed signs of coming to. We concluded to engage a man on foot
+to carry the burden across the mountains and to lead Chontal. After
+some delay a man was found, who readily agreed to carry the burden and
+pack-saddle, but when he found he was to lead the mule besides, he
+defied the town authorities and refused to go. Unfortunately, he was a
+carpenter and, by law, could not be made to go against his will. Hours
+passed, while another carrier was sought. Declaring that I would not
+return to town, I waited on the road with the mule, while Ernst rode
+back and forth. As soon as he had left, the beast began to mend; he
+coughed, raised his head, and, opening one eye, gravely winked. Taking
+his halter and encouraging him to rise, I led him a few yards up
+the hill, when he again braced himself and I desisted. There he ate
+_zacate_. Presently we took another turn, mounted a little higher up the
+hill, where he stopped again. A little later we made another journey,
+and again halted. Just then I heard an indian boy of fourteen years
+calling from the cliff above me in great excitement, "_Senor, un
+animal_" (An animal, sir). Clambering over rocks, I came up to the boy,
+with his _machete_ in his hand, standing at the foot of a tree upon the
+leafless branches of which was a fine iguana (lizard) two feet or more
+in length. Visions of iguana steak, which I had long desired to try,
+rose in fancy. The boy was disgusted when he found I had no pistol
+with which to shoot his animal, but grunted, "If we but had a cord." I
+directed him where to find a cord among our luggage and on his return
+he made a slip-noose, cut a long and slender pole to which he tied his
+snare, then handing me his _machete_ he raised his pole and tried to
+slip the noose over the lizard's head. The iguana gave a leap, and as it
+shot by me I struck at it with the _machete_, which hit it and threw it
+on the rocks below. However, before we could reach it, it had made good
+its escape.
+
+Returning to the mule I found it eating grass contentedly by the
+roadside. It was three o'clock in the afternoon when our human beast of
+burden finally arrived, took up his burden and was ready to start. Then,
+suddenly, I took a new resolve. Before us rose the appalling mass of the
+Sierra Madre; to get that mule across it would wear us out in mind
+and body; I regretted that he had not died, and determined to have no
+further trouble with him. Quickly, we sent back word to Nenton that a
+mule and saddle were for sale; the crowd gathered. We demanded fifteen
+dollars for the mule, ten for the saddle; and were offered ten and five
+respectively. But we declared we would kill the mule and burn the saddle
+before we would take less; we triumphed. Our account stood:
+
+  Cost of mule                              $45.00
+  Cost of saddle                              6.00
+                                            ------
+                                             51.00
+
+  Selling price of mule                      15.00
+  Selling price of saddle                    10.00
+                                            ------
+                                            $25.00
+                                            ------
+  Loss--paid for experience in mules        $26.00
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V
+
+AT HUIXQUILUCAN
+
+(1897)
+
+
+Our serious work was to begin with one of the most conservative and
+reserved of Mexican indian populations. If we could do what we planned
+to do with the Otomis, we were likely to have but little greater trouble
+with any tribe. In ancient times the name of Otomi was synonymous with
+stupidity. When an Aztec was particularly stupid or clumsy, his fellows
+in derision called him an Otomi. They still are ignorant, suspicious,
+and unprogressive.
+
+Huixquilucan, which we had chosen as our field for labor, is situated
+on a high ridge within sight of the National Railroad, at a distance
+of perhaps a mile and a half from the station of Dos Rios. A crowd of
+indian women and children are always at the station when trains pass, to
+sell _tortillas, chalupas_, and _pulque_ to passengers; few travellers
+from the United States, passing over this road, have failed to notice
+the dark and ugly faces of these sellers, and have received their first
+impression of the indians of Mexico from seeing them. Our party, three
+in number, reached Dos Rios in the morning and began work at the station
+with the women who were selling there. Dr. Powell, as our interpreter,
+undertook the personal dealings, and our material, as was to be
+expected, was chiefly women. When we came to record the names of
+our subjects, we found that every woman's first name was Maria, the
+differentiation between them being first found in the middle name. They
+were little creatures, scarcely larger than well grown girls of eleven
+or twelve among ourselves. Some old women, with grey hair and wrinkled
+faces who piously kissed our hands when they met us, were among the
+smallest. Now and then some young woman or girl was attractive, but
+usually their faces were suspicious, sad, and old before their time. The
+skin was a rich brown; the eyebrows heavily haired, often meeting above
+the nose; the hair grew low upon the forehead, and in young women the
+forehead itself was covered with a fine downy black growth. The nose
+was flat, broad, and depressed at the roots, while its tip was flat and
+wide. The eyes were dark brown and the hair was black and coarse. If we
+were to judge the population by the women only, we might call the
+Otomis true pygmies. The average stature of 28 subjects was 1,435
+millimeters--while Sir William Flower's limit for pygmy peoples is 1,500
+millimeters.
+
+[Illustration: OTOMI INDIAN GIRLS; HUIXQUILUCAN]
+
+[Illustration: THE MOON-STONE, AT DOS RIOS STATION]
+
+Many of the women whom we measured and photographed carried babies; the
+disposition of the children while the mothers were being examined was
+something of a problem. When given to another woman they usually cried
+lustily, and so conducted themselves as to distract the attention of
+their mothers and interfere seriously with our work. In the crowd of
+lookers-on there chanced to be a little girl, surely not more than ten
+years old, who seemed to be a born caretaker. Upon her back, supported
+by her _ayate_, she carried her own baby brother. We quickly found that
+really refractory babies were best committed to her charge. No matter
+how loudly they might have been crying beforehand, when transferred to
+the arms of this little creature they became instantly quiet. The poor
+little thing was kept busily employed the greater part of the afternoon
+with the two babies, one upon her back, the other in her arms.
+
+Almost all the women wear the ancient costume, which consists of the
+_huipil, enagua, faja_, and _ayate_. The _huipil_ is a cotton blanket,
+with a slit through which the head passes. On each side of the slit are
+bands of patterns embroidered in bright colors. Much of the remaining
+surface of the garment may be similarly decorated; sometimes it becomes
+one mass of designs. The patterns are usually geometrical figures, but
+may be representations of animals, birds, or human beings. They may be
+regularly arranged, or jumbled together haphazard. The _enagua_, skirt,
+consists of two strips of cloth of different kinds and colors, sewn
+together side by side and then wrapped horizontally about the body. The
+strips of cloth are native spun, native dyed, and native woven.
+The favorite colors are dark blue, brownish purple, or indian red,
+horizontally banded with narrow black stripes. The two strips are
+usually joined by a line of colored stitching. The _enagua_ is simply
+wrapped about the body, sometimes thrown into pleatings in front, and
+held in place by a broad cotton belt of bright color, into which are
+woven birds, animals, human figures, and geometrical forms. These
+belts are called by the Spanish name, _faja_. Both men and women carry
+_ayates_. These are square or rectangular blankets made of _ixtli_, the
+strong fibre of the maguey. Like the _enaguas_, they usually consist of
+two pieces, side by side, stitched together with some bright color. The
+fibre, which is gotten from the leaves partly by maceration, partly by
+beating, is spun in a primitive fashion. Almost every woman one meets
+upon the road, no matter what burden of babies or goods she carries,
+has a hank of the fibre thrown over her shoulder, and keeps her little
+spindle whirling, spinning the strong thread as she walks. Her spindle
+consists of a slender stick thrust through a whorl of baked pottery.
+Such whorls are no longer made, but the ancient ones, called by the
+Aztec name _malacates_, are picked up in the fields and reapplied to
+their old use. Usually the _ixtli_ thread is left of its original grey
+or white color, but sometimes the fibre is dyed, a fine shade of orange
+being favored. The _ixtli_ thread is woven into _ayates_, which are used
+for carrying burdens. Vegetables, charcoal, babies--anything--are put
+into them. Two ends are tied together to hold the burden in place, and
+the other two are passed across the breast and tied in front. These
+blankets are astonishingly strong and unyielding.
+
+At evening, after a fair day's work, we made our way on foot across the
+valley and up the long slope to the summit of the ridge on which lay
+Huixquilucan, the official centre of a municipality of 11,000 persons.
+Of these, 3,000 live in the village, while the remainder are clustered
+together in hamlets like San Bartolito, San Francisco, Agua Bendita, or
+are scattered in single-house settlements over the mountains. Of the
+11,000 persons, more than three-fourths claim to be full Otomis. There
+are no truly poor in the whole town. Every family has its field, its
+house, its bit of woodland. All the people still speak the native
+tongue, and many speak no other. The town is picturesquely situated upon
+the crest and flank of a long, narrow ridge, which is enclosed by a
+grand sweeping curve of lofty mountains. The flanks of the enclosed
+ridge and the whole slope of the surrounding mountains are occupied by
+the little fields of the indians, long narrow patches separated by lines
+of _maguey_ or century-plants. The houses are built of adobe bricks with
+thick and solid walls, which are usually plastered on the outside and
+tinted white or pink. The roofs are pitched, but with a gentle slope.
+They consist of frameworks of poles upon which long narrow shingles are
+laid, and pegged in place with wooden pegs which project both above and
+below for several inches in a formidable, bristling way. Sometimes the
+shingles, instead of being pegged in place, are held by stones, which
+in some cases weigh several pounds, and are laid in regular horizontal
+lines.
+
+When we were there, great stacks of corn-husks were to be seen in
+almost every yard; these were placed on floorings, raised by posts some
+distance above the ground to keep them from animals. A long ladder
+usually leaned against one side of the stack and a light cross of sticks
+stuck into the top of the stack kept off evil influences. Sometimes this
+cross was cut in relief on the smooth, carefully trimmed end of the
+stack itself. More striking than these stacks, and quite characteristic
+of the Otomi country, were the queer corn-bins or granaries called by
+the Aztec name _cincalote_. They rose in all directions like great
+square columns. The floor of boards was slightly raised from the ground
+by stones, and measured some 4 or 5 feet on a side; from its corners
+rose 4 poles, sometimes to the height of 20 feet; these were connected
+at the top and held firm by ropes. The sides of the bin were built up
+of a cobwork of slender staves laid horizontally. The vertical bin thus
+formed was filled with ears of corn roofed about with a light thatch or
+shingled roof. Later in the season, as the corn was taken from these
+bins, the sides would have been removed piecemeal to keep progress with
+the diminishing hoard. When the time of planting should be near, the
+whole structure but the floor and upright poles would have disappeared.
+
+Next to maize the chief culture among the Otomis is _maguey_. This forms
+division lines between the corn-fields and the village yards, and is
+sometimes, though not commonly here, planted in fields. The _maguey_ is
+an agave very close to the century-plant. Manifold are its uses, but to
+the Otomi its value is chiefly in two directions. It furnishes _ixtli_
+fibre for _ayates_, and it yields _pulque_. For a dozen years
+the _maguey_ plant stores away starchy food in its long, thick,
+sharp-pointed leaves. It is the intended nourishment for a great shaft
+of flowers. Finally, the flower-bud forms amid the cluster of leaves.
+Left to itself the plant now sends all its reserve of food into this
+bud, and the great flower-stalk shoots upward at the rate of several
+inches daily; then the great pyramid of flowers develops. But man
+interferes. The flower-bud is cut out, and a neat, deep cup is fashioned
+amid the bases of the cluster of leaves. The sap which should produce
+that wonderful growth is poured into this cup. The _pulque_ gatherer,
+with his long gourd collecting-tube, and skin carrying-bottle, goes from
+plant to plant and gathers the _agua miel_--honey-water. Fermented, it
+becomes the whitish, dirty, ropy, sour-tasting, bad-smelling stuff
+so dear to the indians. And the Otomi are fond of _pulque_. We were
+compelled to do our work in the mornings; in the afternoons everyone was
+drunk and limp and useless in the operator's hands.
+
+We slept and ate at the house of the _presidente_, an old _mestizo_
+of rather forbidding manners but kindly spirit. Our cases came rather
+slowly and a deal of coaxing, argument, and bribes were necessary to
+secure them. Here we gave a trifle, a few _centavos_, to each subject.
+The policy was bad, and we abandoned it with reference to all subsequent
+populations. Naturally the natives were hostile to our work. They
+thought that we were measuring them for their coffins; that they would
+be forced into the army; that disease would result; that an uncanny
+influence was laid upon them; that witchcraft might be worked against
+them. After having had a lot of trouble with many of our subjects, we
+were surprised one day to have the oldest man of the village, Antonio
+Calistro, born in 1813, still so hale and hearty that he works his own
+fields, come in for measurement and photographing. He still wears the
+old style of dress: a loose jacket with wide sleeves made of dark blue
+woolen cloth, gathered around the waist by a closely-woven cotton belt;
+short, wide-legged trousers of buckskin. He is the only man left in the
+village who wears his hair after the old fashion; that on top of his
+head in front was combed together and braided into a little tail, while
+that on the sides and back of the head was made into a longer braid.
+When we asked him how it was that he was not afraid to undergo our
+measurement and photographing, we learned that someone had told him that
+the purport of the work was to send information to the Pope in Rome as
+to how his Otomi children looked, and from respect for the Holy Father
+the old man of eighty years had walked in from his distant farm to be
+measured and photographed.
+
+A curious fact in respect to the Otomis resulted from our study. The
+men, apparently of pure blood, presented two quite different types.
+There are many who are as little as the women; these present almost the
+type already given as that of the women, but are a little lighter in
+color. The second type is tall, sometimes over 1,700 millimeters. It is
+lighter in color, presenting at times a light brownish-yellow shade.
+Some indians of this large type have white skins, blotched with
+disagreeable red or purple. The eyes of these large men are usually
+widely-spaced, and the face appears rounder than in their smaller
+brethren. All the Otomis of both types, men and women, have
+astonishingly big heads, and many dwarfish individuals would require a
+7-1/4 hat.
+
+[Illustration: THE CHURCH; HUIXQUILUCAN]
+
+[Illustration: OTOMI INDIAN; HUIXQUILUCAN]
+
+One night during our stay we had a grand illumination. It was St.
+Martin's Eve. During the afternoon the men and boys planted dead trees
+in the plaza and streets, and filled the branches with bunches of dry
+brush. At dusk we walked up to the crest before the church. All through
+the valley the men and boys had been busy, and as darkness settled down,
+blaze after blaze sprung forth until every hillside was dotted with
+flaming heaps. On every church and farm-house of large size, straight
+lines of little bonfires were built along the edges of the roof. There
+must have been many hundreds of fires in sight at once. Meanwhile,
+all the churches of the little hamlets around clanged their bells
+discordantly. Then the church close by us burst into illumination,
+and its bells joined in the clangor as we started down the hill. The
+villagers were putting torches to the piles, and children were dancing
+in the glare, shooting off their little rockets and adding their full
+share to the general confusion.
+
+In the olden time Huixquilucan had a bad reputation for highway
+robberies. A great hill overlooking the town is called the hill of
+crosses, and here a cross by the wayside usually signifies a place of
+murder. Many a traveller in the not distant past found his way from here
+as best he could to the capital city minus burden and money, minus hat
+and shoes, and sometimes minus clothing. They used to say that from
+Toluca to the city a man was robbed three times; the first time they
+took his money, the second his watch and valuables, the third, his
+clothes. We were told that the church here, the chief church of our
+Otomi friends, is called "the church of the thieves," and that it was
+even lately a favorite resort of _ladrones_, who prayed for blessing
+upon their thieving expeditions and for release in case they should
+be taken captive. And not so long ago, among the little silver votive
+offerings,--eyes, legs, arms, hands,--all given in fulfillment of
+promises for the cure of ailing members,--one might see little chains
+and manacles, visible evidence that saint or Virgin had kindly released
+some fellow, taken in his misdeeds, from a well deserved punishment, in
+answer to his pious prayers.
+
+Below the station of Dos Rios a little ravine borders the main valley.
+There, within sight of the track on one side of the ravine lies the
+stone which long ago "fell from the moon." It is a great boulder, with
+flat lower surface, and round upper surface, sufficiently large for a
+considerable party to camp on. The earth is washed away somewhat from
+below it, and on its under side are rude figures painted in imitation
+of suns and circles and symbolic designs. It is said that the indians
+throughout the country around respect this rock, making prayers and
+offerings to it.
+
+One of Huixquilucan's pretty hamlets is Agua Bendita,--blessed
+water,--near the upper, narrowing end of the valley. A dozen or so
+houses compose the settlement. Near it, upon a little side gorge, two
+lovely springs burst forth from the rock. From them a babbling stream
+of sparkling water flows, in which, in the bright sunshine, women wash
+clothes, and lay them out on bushes or grassy banks to dry; little naked
+children play about while the mothers labor; hither dusky maidens come
+to perform their toilets; here women fill their _ollas_ with water; here
+_pulque_-gatherers wash and scrape their skin bottles. In the little
+tank below, where the water lies so clear that everything is
+visible upon its bottom, one may see axolotls creeping. They are
+water-salamanders, but they have a strange history. Like frogs, they
+pass through a series of changes, and the larval is very different from
+the adult form. In some Mexican lakes of genial temperature, the little
+creature goes through its full history from the larva to the adult; but
+in cold mountain lakes, the adult form is never attained, and the larva
+(elsewhere immature) lays eggs that hatch its like.
+
+Our last evening at Huixquilucan, I went out to purchase native
+garments. We rode from house to house, and were quite away from the town
+in a district where houses were few and far between. It was nearly dusk
+and our search must end. We were at the last house on a slope near the
+bottom of a valley, on whose opposite slope were but a few houses. The
+people were primitive in appearance, dress and language. They could not
+understand all we said, but were anxious to please the "_padrecito_,"
+whose hand they kissed. Having no clothing to sell us, they tried to
+help us procure some. Orders were given to a shy and wild girl, with
+deep-set, shining jet-black eyes, raven hair and dark brown skin,
+dressed in rags. Stepping to a little out-jutting mass of rock, she
+gave a wild cry, looking across the valley to the nearest house on the
+opposite slope, fully half a mile away. We could see the people of
+the house turn out to hear. Then, in a high, clear voice, strangely
+penetrating, but without harshness or a break or pause for breath,
+with rising and falling intonation, she cried her message. There was a
+moment's pause, and then we saw the answering crier take her place, and
+in the same clear, penetrating, unbroken, up-and-down voice, came back
+the reply. It was not favorable, and the old man apologized for the
+failure, as he kissed the _padrecito's_ hand in parting.
+
+
+
+Some weeks later we were again at Huixquilucan, this time to secure some
+busts. Having reached the house of the _presidente_, we sent out our
+drunken friend Augustin, who had been useful to us during our measuring
+experiences, to find subjects. He finally appeared with a man who agreed
+to submit to the operation for one _peso_. Everything went well until
+the moulds were removed; it is true that in the removal a good deal of
+hair was pulled out, but no serious damage was done. When the _peso_
+agreed upon was offered, the subject indignantly refused to receive it,
+demanding five. I replied that he well understood our agreement: there
+was his _peso_; if he cared to take it, good; if not, I would keep it;
+but that to pay five _pesos_ was out of the question. He thereupon
+grew angry and boisterously demanded the increased sum. Several of his
+friends gathered and backed him in his demand. The noise they made
+attracted a still greater crowd until at last we were surrounded by
+forty or fifty angry Indians. The man continued to demand his five
+_pesos_, the other crying, "Pay him five _pesos_." I was firm, declaring
+that the man should receive no more than had been promised. Again the
+_peso_ was offered, again to be rejected. At that moment some brilliant
+genius cried, "If you do not pay five _pesos_ we will break your
+moulds." And the cry was caught up by the angry crowd: "Yes, we will
+break the moulds unless you pay five _pesos_." At this threat I told my
+two companions to stand back out of the way, and then, speaking to him
+who had suggested the breaking of the moulds, said, pointing to them,
+"Yes, break the moulds." His ardor cooled. Turning to another, I said
+to him, "Come, break the moulds." He began to back away. Turning to the
+cause of the disturbance, who had joined in the cry about destroying the
+moulds, I said to him, "Come, come, we are waiting for you to break the
+moulds." No one made a move toward destroying our plaster-work, so I
+said, "No, you know quite well you will not break the moulds; if you
+did, you know what would happen; I should take you all as prisoners to
+Toluca." At that moment, catching sight of the old _presidente_ who was
+passing on the road, I clapped my hands and beckoned him. When the old
+man came I laid the matter fairly before him, telling him the agreement
+that had been made, the time taken for the work, and the fact I had
+offered the man the _peso_ promised; that he now demanded five _pesos_,
+refusing to take the proffered money. The old man looked a moment at me,
+then at the angry indian; then at me, and again at the indian; then,
+stepping up to him, he patted him on the back as a father might a
+spoiled child, saying, "Come, come, son; don't be a fool; three good
+days' wages for an hour's time; take your _peso_ and be gone." We had
+feared the incident would cast a damper on our work and hinder other
+subjects. Far from it. We were supplied as rapidly as our men could work
+at the same price we paid our first subject.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI
+
+LAKE PATZCUARO
+
+(1897)
+
+
+Mexico has few large lakes, the largest, Chapala, having an area of
+only 1,685 square kilometers. Patzcuaro is much smaller, but far more
+picturesque. The form is something like a fat horseshoe; fine hills rise
+around it on all sides, behind which are mountain heights, with jagged
+outlines; pretty islands dot its waters, and twenty-two villages or
+towns of Tarascan indians are situated on its borders. The indians of
+these villages rarely use the land roads in going from town to town,
+commonly journeying by canoes, of a somewhat peculiar type. These are
+"dug outs," made from single tree trunks, and range in size from those
+intended for a single hunter to those which will carry ten or twelve
+persons. At the stern they are cut almost squarely across; at the bow
+they are trimmed to a slope; they are flat-bottomed and considerably
+wider at the bottom than above; they are dug out in such fashion that
+the walls are thin and almost vertical on the inner side. Buttressing
+pieces are left at the bottom, at two or three places, extending across
+the canoe and no doubt strengthening the sides; they also serve as
+squatting places for the passengers. The prow narrows as well as slopes
+upward, and a buttressing piece left in it serves as a foot-rest for the
+steersman, who sits in the bow, instead of in the stern. He steers by
+means of a long-handled paddle thrust through a loop of wood fastened
+to one side of the canoe. The paddles used for propulsion have handles
+three or four feet long, with round blades. The paddlers sometimes make
+their stroke on but one side of the canoe, sometimes on both. When they
+paddle over one side only, the stroke of the oar through the water is
+oblique, maintaining a steady course.
+
+[Illustration: SANTA FE DE LA LAGUNA]
+
+In such canoes the Tarascans of the lake villages go from place to
+place; in such a canoe, we started one morning before six o'clock, for
+Santa Fe de la Laguna. Our force consisted of three persons, an old man
+named Felipe, his wife, and a young man. All three had paddles, but only
+two really paddled, the third one steering. The sun rose shortly after
+we started, and the light effects of early morning on the water and
+surrounding mountains were fine. Though we had made an early start, many
+had started earlier, and in the first part of our journey we met scores
+of canoes, the paddlers of which were on their way to Patzcuaro. It
+was a beautiful sight to see six or eight paddlers in some great canoe
+keeping exact time in their movements, singing as they went. Sometimes
+two canoes were raced, and laughter and excited cries accompanied
+the contest. Here and there along the shores we saw little huts of
+fishermen, with nets hung out to dry, or groups of men seining or
+dropping dip-nets; upon many slopes were little terrace garden spots,
+where modest crops were cultivated; here and there were mats lately
+finished or heaps of fresh-cut rushes for their fabrication. Five hours
+of good paddling brought us to Santa Fe de la Laguna, just opposite the
+far more famous Tzintzuntzan, and but a little distance from the much
+larger town, Quiroga. Santa Fe is quite a town, stretching for a
+considerable distance along a terrace, but little elevated above the
+water level. The houses are built of rather large, dark-brown, adobe
+bricks; the walls are usually white plastered; the roofs of all the
+houses are tiled, and the supporting rafters of the roof extend out far
+beyond the front wall of the house, so that the passer on the footpath
+is sheltered against rain and the noonday sun. The outer ends of these
+rafters are cut to give an ornamental effect. All the houses are
+surrounded by fruit trees--orange, lemon, lime, _ahuacate_ and
+_chirimoya_. Each little property is surrounded by a stone wall of some
+height; the gate-way through this, giving entrance to the yard, is
+surmounted by a pretty little double-pitched roofing of thatch.
+
+A crowd of pure indians had gathered at the landing, by the time we were
+unloaded. Forty or fifty men and women of medium stature, dark-brown
+skin and broad, expressionless faces, watched our every movement with
+curiosity, but none was ready to assist us in carrying our luggage to
+the _curato_. Taking it ourselves, as best we could, we found a boy to
+direct us and made our way to the house. The _cura_, had gone to Quiroga
+and his suspicious household would not receive us until his return,
+although permitting us to leave our goods. Going to the _plaza_, we
+succeeded in getting bread and cheese at a _tienda_, and after eating
+loitered until, at half-past-two, the Padre Ponce made his appearance.
+We showed him our letters and asked his interest and aid. He at
+once made us at home in his house, summoned the officials, read the
+governor's letter aloud to them, and told them it was their duty to
+assist us in every way. We at once began our work, and before nightfall
+had measured and photographed a number of cases.
+
+The next morning, Saturday, all started merrily. After breakfast,
+however, Padre Ponce left us, going to Quiroga for celebrating
+Christmas. The moment he was gone, work slackened, and it was with
+difficulty that we could procure subjects. Early the next morning the
+_padre_ appeared to say mass, after which he stirred up the people and
+we were again at work. But as soon as he left for Quiroga, once more,
+the interest diminished. Finally, as no one came and the officials had
+disappeared, we started out upon a tour of investigation. We found the
+whole town drunk; the _juez_, the chief of police, the _mayores_, all
+were too drunk for measurement. We experimented upon two or three
+subjects, but soon gave up in despair.
+
+[Illustration: LOS VIEJOS; SANTA FE DE LA LAGUNA]
+
+Padre Ponce need not have gone to Quiroga for Christmas celebrations; we
+had them also. For example, we had _Los Viejos_. One afternoon, we saw a
+band of half-a-dozen persons singing in the street. All but one of them
+were men or boys dressed in long robes of brilliant red, purple or
+green, which were buttoned down the front; their heads were covered with
+white cloth, over which were fitted little masks of clay. The last one
+in the company was a woman, dressed quite in the usual fashion, but
+barefoot and with her _rebozo_ covering her face and a man's _sombrero_
+on her head. Two of the party had guitars of local manufacture. This
+company strolled through the streets, singing and dancing; some of the
+dancing was clog-dance, some the _jarabe_, a man and woman taking part.
+Having noticed this group, we saw that the whole town seemed in movement
+toward the _corral_ connected with the shrine behind the church.
+Following with the crowd, we found the _corral_ already filled with
+people. The men were seated on benches or squatting against the walls;
+women and children were sitting on the ground. We noticed that all the
+women brought burdens, which proved to be pots full of hot _atole_,
+bundles of large _tortillas_, trays heaped high with _tamales_, or sacks
+full of little cups. Various bands of dancers made their way around,
+delighting the crowd with their performances. The group we had already
+seen was the least interesting. Those that really represented _los
+viejos_ (the old men) were the best. These wore large, comic, wooden
+masks, many of which showed signs of long-continued use; one represented
+a long, warty, bearded face and was painted purple; others were painted
+red or brown, but most of them were of the natural color of the wood;
+great wigs of corn-husk or of matting were worn over the back of the
+head; the clothing was ragged and dirty, and in some cases was really
+of ancient style; some wore roughly made garments of the skin of the
+_tigre_. Each band had its leader, and each tried to outdo the others in
+the oddity of performance, vigor of dancing and coarseness of jest. Much
+fun and laughter were caused by their antics. Meantime, boys and young
+women were busied as waiters. Cups of steaming _atole_, delicious
+_tortillas_, hot _tamales_ were distributed until everyone, including
+the strangers, were supplied. No one ate until the whole company had
+been served, when the town officials set the example and all fell to
+feasting. Dancing, music, laughter and fun followed, and were kept up
+until some time after nightfall.
+
+On the second day after Christmas a strolling band of _pastores_, from
+San Geronimo, passed from house to house singing their Christmas songs.
+The company consisted of two or three musicians, a carrier--who was an
+indian boy about fifteen years old--and half a dozen other youngsters,
+wearing new palm hats and carrying long staves ending above in a loop
+from which streamed strips of brilliantly colored tissue paper. The
+carrier bore a cushion, upon which was stretched a figure of the infant
+Christ. At each house, he passed before the spectators, allowing them
+to kiss the figure and to deposit gifts of flowers or of money for the
+little church at San Geronimo; the music then struck up, the leader
+began to sing, and the little shepherds (_pastores_) marched around and
+around singing in chorus.
+
+We lost quite two days on account of the drunkenness of the town. When
+it was past, by a vigorous indulgence in wheedling and threatening,
+we got the work again under way, and were just finishing with our
+one-hundredth man, when Padre Ponce returned for good and all. We had
+nearly starved during his absence; his old housekeeper had done her best
+with the poor materials which we were able to secure, but the best was
+bad. With Padre Ponce came another priest, Padre Torres of Patzcuaro,
+who used to be located at Santa Fe and was much loved by the natives.
+With the assistance of the two Padres we were able to secure and deal
+with our female subjects in less than a day, and were ready to bid adieu
+to the _padrecitos_ and leave for Tzintzuntzan.
+
+[Illustration: CHURCHYARD AND BELLS; TZINTZUNTZAN]
+
+[Illustration: VIEW AT JANICHO; LAKE PATZCUARO]
+
+All the tourist world that goes to Patzcuaro visits Tzintzuntzan to see
+the Titian. Padre Ponce was anxious to have us see the famous picture
+and photograph it. It was late when we reached the town, which consists
+in large part of _mestizos_ and indians who speak little but native
+Tarascan. We found the _cura_ was not in town, but were taken to the
+_curato_; arrived there, we discovered that the good man had taken his
+keys with him. We arranged, with some difficulty, for something to eat,
+and, after supper, were shown into an open room, with an unfinished
+roof, without a door, and with no hint of bed. Here we shared a lumber
+pile with two or three young men and suffered frightfully from cold all
+night. We were up early, as sleep was impossible, and filled our time as
+best we could, until it was light enough to photograph the picture.
+
+We had our letter from Padre Ponce to the _cura_, in which he
+recommended the priest to have us photograph the painting. This letter
+and the governor's letter we had shown the town officials the night
+before, telling them that we should make the picture. They replied that
+they could not give permission to do so during the _padre's_ absence.
+After we had breakfasted, and the light had become sufficient, we made
+our way to the old church, in front of which are some beautifully
+gnarled and irregular ancient olive trees, amid which the old bells are
+quaintly hung. Entering the church, we soon found the Titian, a descent
+from the cross. The figures are boldly painted and skillfully grouped;
+the action and lighting concentrate upon the figure of the Christ. Padre
+Ponce had told us that the proper place from which to photograph was the
+pulpit, and he was right. The sacristan was looking on with doubt: when
+he saw us making preparations for the picture, he hurried to us and said
+it was against all rule for anyone to take a photograph when the _cura_
+was not present. We told him our time was short; that we must return
+to Patzcuaro that day to arrange our farther journey; we showed the
+governor's order and Padre Ponce's letter, but all in vain. We must wait
+until the _cura_ came. With this I put some _centavos_ in his hand and
+told him I was certain his duties called him outside the church and that
+we would not detain him; that we should stay awhile to gaze upon
+the picture, which deserved close and pious examination. He at once
+withdrew, locking the door behind him. The instrument was quickly placed
+in the pulpit and the picture taken. Curiously, the sacristal duties
+ended just as we were ready to leave the church and the door opened as
+if we had said "Open sesame."
+
+By ten-thirty we had secured a canoe and boatmen, two young and vigorous
+pure-blood indians. Though a wind was blowing squarely against us,
+we made good time. We stopped at the picturesque fishing-village of
+Janicho, on its rock island. Its houses cluster on a little terrace near
+the bottom of the hill, which rises behind it as a fine background.
+Steps of rock lead up the stony slope from the water's edge to the
+houses. In every yard mattings are laid, upon which little white fish
+are drying. As they walk through the streets or stand talking together,
+the men are ever tatting at nets; long lines of net-cord are reeled out
+for many yards along the wayside; hundreds of feet of seines are hung
+out in the sun to dry. The houses, with their pretty red tiling, are
+irregularly clustered along narrow winding streets. The people are
+purely indian, and wear the characteristic dress.
+
+[Illustration: TARASCAN FISHERMEN; JANICHO]
+
+No town in all the region makes so much use of the _tsupakua_, or
+spear-thrower, a wooden stick cut to fit the hand and support the shaft
+of a spear or long dart, the end of which rests against a peg near the
+tip of the thrower. By means of this instrument, the long, light, darts
+of cane with iron points are thrown more directly and forcibly than by
+the hand alone. These spears are used in hunting ducks. Anciently a
+spear-throwing stick was widely used through Mexico; to-day it lingers
+in few places, the best known of which is here on Lake Patzcuaro.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII
+
+TO URUAPAN BEFORE THE RAILROAD
+
+(1898)
+
+
+We easily arranged at Patzcuaro to leave for Uruapan the next morning.
+Although delayed beyond our proposed hour of starting, we were off at
+six. It was early enough, indeed, for the morning air was cold; heavy
+frost coated the leaves and grass and lay upon the soil; in spite of our
+heavy blankets, wrapped closely about us, we shivered as we rode along
+upon our horses.
+
+The ride, however, was a lovely one. At first we seemed to leave the
+lake behind us; mounting for some time we reached a summit from which it
+again broke upon our view; descending, we constantly caught glimpses
+of it, with its sinuous shores, its lovely mountain backgrounds, its
+islands, and its pretty indian towns. Finally, we again left it and rose
+into a magnificent mountain region, covered chiefly with pines. Passing
+through Ajuno, which lies upon a steep slope, we overtook a party of
+police, mounted on horses, taking a group of prisoners to Uruapan.
+At Escondidas, itself a miserable village, we were impressed by the
+mercantile spirit of these indians. In all these villages the houses are
+constructed of heavy logs or timbers, closely and neatly joined; the
+roofs are shingled with long and narrow shingles, and are abruptly
+four-sloped. At every house there was something for sale--food, drink,
+or _cigarros_. All these houses were built close to the edge of the
+road, and in the middle of the front was a little square window, in
+which the goods were shown. When no trade was solicited, these windows
+were closed with solid wooden shutters. Not only, however, was every
+house a store, but on the highway between towns, we passed many places
+where, beneath brush shelters, women offered fruit, food, or drink for
+sale. Usually several such shelters would be near together, and the
+venders had gay times, chatting, laughing and singing. Such houses and
+roadside-selling are common through the whole Tarascan region.
+
+[Illustration: TARASCAN WOMEN; JANICHO]
+
+Soon after passing Escondidas, we began a descent, which seemed
+absolutely endless. Time after time we thought we had reached the
+bottom, only to find that we were on a terrace from which another
+drop led us still further down. On and on into this bottomless pit we
+descended to Ziracuaretaro, a striking town. Banana plantings surrounded
+the houses; orange-trees covered with their golden spheres reared
+themselves to the unusual height of thirty feet or more; _mameys_, with
+their strange nut-brown fruits, and coffee-trees, loaded to breaking,
+were abundant. Amid this luxuriant mass of tropical vegetation,
+houses were almost invisible until we were directly in front of them.
+Notwithstanding the enormous descent we had made, it appeared to us,
+when we crossed the stream and began the ascent, that we had not really
+been to the bottom of the great valley. For a long distance we mounted
+through a district of sugar-canes; then passed a little settlement
+of rude huts spread out over a reddish space; then, by a gentle but
+circuitous ascent, to a rugged trail which brought us to the summit
+and the edge of the great slope to Uruapan. At the further side of the
+valley and to our left, in a mass of green, we saw smoke rising from the
+factories of Uruapan. Crossing one of the characteristic bridges of the
+district, with a pretty shingled roof--four-sloped like those of the
+houses--over it, and with benches at the sides, where passers can
+sit and rest, while looking at the dashing, gurgling, foaming, water
+below,--we followed a level road between blackberries, wild roses, and
+other shrubs, to Uruapan.
+
+No town in Mexico is more beautiful. Perpetual spring reigns. Although
+several thousand feet above sea level, it is so situated, with reference
+to mountain slopes and funnel valleys, that it has a genial climate,
+where plants nourish which are usually found only at lower altitudes.
+Its fruits and "the finest coffee in the world" have rendered the town
+long famous. The houses, bowered in dense groves of green, are of the
+picturesque Tarascan type. The four-sloped roofs, now covered with long,
+narrow shingles, now with the dull red tiles, suggest the prettiest
+pictures in Japanese towns. The streets are clean. Through the centre
+of the town dashes a mountain stream of clearest water, with the hue of
+sapphire. This pretty stream furnishes power for mills, factories and
+lighting-plant, and is crossed several times by picturesque, roofed
+bridges, in the shelter of which one may spend hours in watching the
+dashing water, foaming cascades, curious potholes worn in the rocky
+banks, and the passing Indians. Most Mexican towns are contented with
+one _plaza_; this one has three, following each other closely, separated
+only by single lines of narrow buildings. They are neatly planted, and
+supplied with bandstand and monuments. The town is electric-lighted and
+several hotels had been lately put in readiness to receive the crowd of
+visitors expected with the completion of the railroad, a matter of a few
+months later.
+
+The _prefecto_ of Uruapan and _jefe politico_ of the district is the
+son-in-law of Governor Mercado, and to him we bore a special letter from
+his father-in-law. The old gentleman had been insistent that we should
+return by Capacuaro and Cheran, indian towns. He said that at the former
+we should find a _mogote_ (mound or heap of stones and dirt) which every
+traveler should see, while at the latter Lumholtz had secured some
+skulls of exceptional interest, and that we should do the same. As our
+time was short, we asked the _prefecto_ to send a messenger to Cheran
+with orders to dig some skulls and have them ready against the time of
+our arrival. That official expressed delight in doing our bidding, and
+we saw the messenger summoned and the order placed in his hands, with
+full direction as to its delivery.
+
+[Illustration: INDIAN SPEAR-THROWER; LAKE PATZCUARO]
+
+Meantime, there were objects of interest for us in Uruapan itself. The
+town is famous for its lacquer work, made with _aje_, like that of
+Chiapa. Gourds are ornamented, fruit-forms are colored after nature,
+bowls made from fruit shells are elaborately decorated, all quite like
+the Chiapa work. What is characteristic of Uruapan are the placques and
+table-tops of wood, decorated with floral designs in brilliant colors,
+upon a background of dark-green, pink, blue, yellow, or black. This art
+is in the hands of a few persons, some pure indians. Visiting them, we
+found the wooden placques and table-tops are brought from one of the
+mountain villages of the Tarascans; they are first covered thickly with
+the background color; upon this the pattern is pencilled and then cut
+out in the lacquered surface; the color, mixed with oil and _aje_, as
+with other substances, is then applied with the finger-tips to fill the
+cut patterns; the lustre is then brought out by careful rubbing. The
+work is striking, and is prized throughout the Republic.
+
+In the same quarter of the town, where this local industry is carried
+on, are many goitrous persons. The disease seems to be confined to the
+one district, but there perhaps one-half the people have it, most of
+them to but a slight degree. Occasionally the swelling is notable, and
+in the families affected we find, as usual, deaf-mutism.
+
+On the morning of New Year's day, we left for Capacuaro and Cheran. As
+we rode out from the city, we were more than ever impressed with
+its verdant beauty and picturesqueness. The road to Capacuaro was
+unexpectedly level and good, and we reached the town, which is purely
+indian, by nine o'clock. Women, almost without exception, wore the
+native dress. Goitres were common, and some, among the men, were really
+enormous. Riding through the long town, we drew up before the house
+of the _jefe de policia_ (chief of police), and summoned the village
+officials. On their appearance we found that all but the _jefe_ himself,
+were drunk, the _secretario_ in particular being almost useless. When we
+handed him the letter from the _prefecto_ he was quite unable to make
+aught of its grandiloquence. Having looked it through in a dazed way, he
+declared that we were "gringos," "like the one who was here last year"
+(presumably Lumholtz). With some severity, I told him he did wrong to
+call visitors to the town by the opprobrious name of _gringos_, and
+ordered him to read the letter and make known its contents to the
+_jefe_. He made another effort and then helplessly said--"Who can make
+anything of such a letter? It is in their _idioma_." Sternly pointing to
+the signature I said--"The letter is from your _prefecto_ and written
+in his _idioma_; you see the _firma_." Helplessly shaking his head, he
+said, "Oh, yes, the _firma_ is that of Silvano Martinez, but the letter
+is in your _idioma_." Seeing that he was of no earthly use, I took the
+letter from him, and, turning to the crowd which had gathered, rebuked
+them for their drunkenness, asserting that it was disgraceful for a
+whole town government to be intoxicated at the same time; that some one
+ought always to be sober enough to attend to business; that we had been
+insulted by being called _gringos_, and that our order had not been read
+to them because the _secretario_ was too drunk to do his business; that
+there were two ways of dealing with such town governments, and that,
+unless something was done promptly, we would see how they would like
+to go back with us to Uruapan, whence we had come. The _jefe_, who was
+really not drunk, thereupon begged to know what we desired, and the
+drunken _secretario_ was somewhat frightened; the remainder of the
+official body expressed a wish to do only what we wanted. I then read
+the _prefecto's_ letter in my best manner and added that we had come to
+Capacuaro only at the desire of the governor himself, to visit their
+_mogote_, and that we ought to wait no longer for guidance. At once all
+was commotion and bustle. Bidding the disgraced _secretario_ go to his
+house and stay there, the _jefe de policia_ summoned the rest of his
+company about him, seized his staff of office, buckled on his great
+_machete_, and took the lead; three policemen, with their _machetes_,
+followed; two others, unarmed, followed, and, with this escort, we
+started to hunt our ruins on the mountain. They proved to be two heaps
+of rubbish, from constructions of stone. Had we had time for serious
+investigation they might have proved of interest; as it was, we spent
+but a few minutes in their inspection, and then, bidding our drunken
+escort good-bye, we continued our journey. We had planned to go first to
+Nehuatzen, thence to Parracho, and, after visiting Cheran, back again to
+Nehuatzen. At the _mogote_, however, we were already near the Parracho
+highway and at once struck into it. Our journey led through forests,
+chiefly of pine, with open glades, at intervals; on many of the trees
+we saw great bunches of a parasite that bore honeysuckle-like, yellow
+flowers. Parracho we found lying at the base of mountains at the very
+end of a long stretch of level. It is an unattractive town, our only
+reason for visiting which was to see something of the manufacture of its
+famous _rebozos_, which differ from others in the wide border of white
+and azure blue silk, which is attached to a netted foundation to form
+decorative patterns, representing birds and animals, or geometric
+figures. The work is curious, and I am inclined to see in it a surviving
+imitation of the ancient feather-work for which the ancient Tarascans
+were famous. From Parracho our road led through Aranza to Cheran. Just
+beyond Aranza we passed over the astonishing wash from some summer
+torrent. During the wet season a single rain may fill the gorges, sheet
+the mountain slopes with water, tear great trees from their hold, break
+off mighty rock fragments and carry them onward, like wooden blocks,
+with hundreds of tons of finer gravel. At this season there was not a
+sign of water; not a trickling thread was visible in any of the gorges;
+but from their now dried mouths there spread fan-shaped deposits many
+rods in length and breadth, containing quantities of blocks of rock that
+measured from four to ten feet in diameter, trunks of trees up to
+two feet in thickness, all in the greatest confusion and at places
+completely covering our road to a depth of several feet. We could trace
+the tailing out of the fans of deposit, from their thicker, heavier part
+at the base of the torrent, to their margin on the plain; from heavy
+rock masses weighing tons, through smaller masses, into sand and gravel.
+
+[Illustration: HOUSES AT URUAPAN]
+
+The way to Cheran seemed endless, but at last we reached that
+interesting, great indian town, when the afternoon was nearly spent.
+It was the New Year, and the street celebration of _los negritos_ (the
+negroes--or the little negroes) was in progress. As we rode through the
+streets, however, we attracted much attention and the performance was
+neglected. We rode directly to the town-house, entered and asked for the
+_presidente_. He was slow in appearing and long before he arrived scores
+of people were crowding around the doors and windows to see us and know
+our business. When he arrived, we greeted him in a most friendly way and
+told him that we had come for the skulls. He looked aghast. "The skulls,
+what skulls, sir?" "The skulls the _prefecto_ ordered you to dig for
+us." By this time, the crowd outside, which had increased with every
+minute, showed uneasiness. The _presidente_ declared he knew nothing of
+any skulls. After we had explained the matter more fully, he assured us
+that no messenger had come from the _prefecto_; this, which at first we
+thought to be a lie, was no doubt true. He was plainly scared. He begged
+us to be careful lest the people, who were ignorant, should overhear us.
+He told us that a year before Don Carlos (Lumholtz) had been there; that
+he, too, had wanted skulls, and that the town officials had given him
+permission to dig some from the graveyard; that this caused so much
+excitement and so many threats that the permission had to be revoked. He
+feared the people had already heard our wishes and were even then in an
+ugly mood--a thing which seemed likely from an inspection of the faces
+in the doorway and windows. He said, however, that Don Carlos afterward
+secured some skulls from an ancient burial-place not distant from the
+village, and, if we pleased to wait in Cheran through the morrow, as it
+was now too late, five in the evening, to do aught, he would gladly show
+us the burial place of the ancients, where no doubt abundant skulls
+could be secured. Not yet certain that the man was telling truth, we
+spoke to him severely, saying that we should report him to the governor
+for not having obeyed the order of the _prefecto_. At the same time we
+demanded an official document signed by himself as _presidente_, and by
+the _secretario_, and duly sealed, stating that no messenger had come
+to him from the _prefecto_. To our surprise this document was promptly
+furnished, good evidence that the _prefecto_ had played us false, only
+pretending to despatch the messenger whom we had seen started.
+
+With profuse apologies and expressions of regret from the officials, we
+left Cheran, hurrying on to Nehuatzen for the night. Our chief reason
+for doing so was that everyone who knew of our intention to visit Cheran
+had shaken their heads, remarking "Ah! there the nights are always
+cold." Certainly, if it is colder there than at Nehuatzen, we would
+prefer the frigid zone outright. Nehuatzen is famous as the town where
+the canoes for Lake Patzcuaro are made. We had difficulty in securing
+food and a place to sleep. The room in which we were expected to slumber
+was hung with an extensive wardrobe of female garments. These we added
+to the blankets we carried with us, but suffered all night long from the
+penetrating cold. The two indian boys, who accompanied us as guides and
+carriers, slept in the corridor outside our door and when day broke
+they were so cramped and numbed and stiff with cold, that they lighted
+matches and thrust their cold hands into the flames, before they could
+move their finger-joints. We had planned to leave at five, but it was
+too cold to ride until the sun should be an hour high, so finally
+we left at seven. There was heavy frost on everything; curved frost
+crystals protruded from the soil, and we broke ice a half inch thick in
+water-troughs, unfinished canoes, by the roadside.
+
+For ten hours we rode, without even stopping for lunch, through Sabina
+and Pichataro, San Juan Tumbio and Ajuno, back to comfortable Patzcuaro.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII
+
+TLAXCALA
+
+(1898)
+
+
+We have always loved the State of Tlaxcala and its quaint little capital
+city of the same name. For more than a dozen years its governor has been
+Prospero Cahuantzi, a pure-blood indian, whose native language is Aztec.
+He is a large, well built man, with full face and little black eyes that
+are sunken deeply into the flesh. He is a man of some force and energy.
+The population of his little state, the most densely populated in the
+Republic, is almost entirely indian, and it at once fears, hates, and
+respects him. Having made several previous visits to the city, and
+having always been graciously received by Don Prospero, we thought it
+hardly necessary to carry with us our usual letters of recommendation
+from the Federal authorities.
+
+Just before we were ready to visit Tlaxcala, while we were in the City
+of Mexico, we learned that Governor Cahuantzi was there, on business.
+We thought it best to call upon him, explaining our proposed work and
+asking his interest. So to the Hotel Sanz, where he always stops when in
+the Capital, we went. We called twice without finding him and our third
+call appeared to be as unsuccessful, but just as we were leaving,
+resolved not to try again, we met the governor alighting from his
+carriage at the door. Intercepting him, we asked a moment's interview,
+which was granted, though with ill grace. It was plain that he was sadly
+out of humor. Apologizing to him for our intrusion at so late an hour
+and so immediately after his return to his hotel, we told him of our
+projected visit, described the measurements, photographs and other data
+we were gathering, reminding him that two years earlier he had heard our
+plans and promised his assistance. In a somewhat gentler mood, he told
+us we might visit Tlaxcala and that he would aid us, but he must have a
+little time "for preparing the soil;" that all his people were indians,
+and that our work would necessarily be considered with suspicion. Upon
+our asking him how much time would be needed "to prepare the soil," we
+received no definite reply. He, himself, planned to leave for home the
+following morning, Friday; so we suggested that we would go first to
+Puebla, and reach his capital on Monday. He plainly considered this
+somewhat hasty, but grunted his assent, and we left him, somewhat
+surprised at his unusual gruffness and lack of interest.
+
+Early Monday morning, we appeared upon the scene. After breakfast we
+betook ourselves to the state palace; the governor was already in
+his reception room, but, instead of being ushered promptly into his
+presence, as had always happened in our previous visits, we were left
+to sit two hours in the outer office. Finally, on our displaying some
+impatience, a message was again taken to his Excellency, and a few
+minutes later, the _jefe politico_ of the district bustled past us into
+the carefully guarded reception chamber. He did not long remain there,
+and, on coming out into the office where we were waiting, brusquely
+asked, "Are you the persons who want to measure heads? Well, they are
+waiting for you out there in the corridor; why don't you go to work?"
+Seizing our instruments, blanks and camera, we hurried to the corridor
+and began operations. Three or four were measured in quick succession;
+then, when I cried, "_Otro_" (another), the _jefe's_ eyes began
+to bulge. That one measured, and another called for, he seemed
+half-distracted; desperation seized him; as he faintly repeated "_Otro_"
+he looked wildly around in search of subjects and it was plain that
+he had not begun to realize what demands we planned to make upon him.
+Before the noonday rest, we had measured fourteen subjects, but the
+_jefe's_ personal interest had ceased, and he had completely disappeared
+from the scene of action. When we returned at three o'clock to resume
+work, only the guards were there to help us. One and another subject,
+invited to be measured, showed no interest in advancing science. So, Mr.
+Wilson went to see the _jefe_ in his office; the old man was furious and
+actually ran out, with the statement that he had plenty of his own work
+to do. When this scene had been reported, it in no wise increased the
+readiness of subjects to undergo the operation. Finding that we were
+accomplishing nothing, we decided upon desperate measures. Going to the
+office of the governor's private secretary, we insisted on his telling
+the chief executive that we were losing time, that no one was assisting
+us, that subjects were obdurate and stubborn, and that something must
+be promptly done. We waited but a few minutes. The fiat went forth; the
+_jefe politico_ appeared, puffing and blowing, and wildly excited. He
+was closeted a moment with the governor. On his reappearance, we greeted
+him cordially, and told him that the people present would not be
+measured and indicated one particularly stubborn subject, who was dealt
+with, promptly, and without gloves. The _jefe_ remained long enough to
+reestablish order, though, under his breath, he muttered curses and
+threats, and expressed his feeling to any official, who chanced to pass.
+He said the business was driving him clean crazy; that he was doing what
+he did, not for love of us, but from respect to the orders of his chief.
+Having set the ball to rolling, he left us and there were no more
+delays.
+
+When the labor of the day was over, we stopped at the _jefe's_ office
+to inform him that we should continue work the following day, and
+emphasized the fact that we wished one hundred cases, and, as yet, had
+less than half that number. We suggested that systematic arrangements
+would not only facilitate _our_ labor, but would lessen his own task.
+The result was evident; on the following day delegations, ordered by the
+_jefe_, and consisting of from six to a dozen persons each, began to
+come in from the outlying villages. This made our work easy, indeed. In
+one respect, Tlaxcala differs from all the other Mexican states with
+which we are acquainted. Most of the people live in very little towns,
+which cluster around the larger places. Thus, around the capital city,
+Tlaxcala, there are some seventeen of these small pueblos.
+
+Working at the palace, we had secured almost no women for measurement.
+Asking the advice of the _cura_, in the matter, he recommended that we
+should go to some one of the neighboring indian villages; that he would
+give us a letter to the _juez_ and that, thus, we would secure our
+subjects easily. He suggested San Estevan and wrote the promised letter
+to the _juez_ of that village. San Estevan is a pretty village, near the
+summit of some low gray hills of tufa, behind which rises a background
+of higher hills of the same material. The slope is terraced for the
+houses, which are all built of adobe bricks and have flat roofs. The
+"three part house," of the ancient Aztec type--god-house, kitchen, and
+granary--is better shown in this state than almost any other part of the
+Republic. The granary, or _cuezcomate_, is particularly characteristic.
+It is built of clay, in the form of a great vase or urn, open at the
+top, above which is built a little thatch to shed rain and to protect
+the contents. The _cuezcomate_ is often ten feet high. One or more of
+them is found in connection with every house.
+
+[Illustration: HOUSE AND CUEZCOMATE; LOS REYES]
+
+The _juez_ lived in a comfortable house of two rooms, half of which is
+used at present for the boy's school, of which his son is teacher. He
+received us graciously, and was pleased to receive a letter from the
+_padre_, though he stated it was not a government order and carried no
+actual authority; that if the women cared to be measured, well and good,
+but if not, no force could be employed. The appearance of the camera,
+however, interested him; plainly, he desired to have a family group
+photographed; he hinted at this so broadly that, taking him to one side,
+I whispered that it was, of course, impossible to take family groups
+for everyone, but if we secured the twenty-five women without delay,
+notwithstanding the fact that we had no more authoritative document than
+a _cura's_ letter, the group should be taken. The effect was immediate.
+The police were summoned and sent through the village to bring in women
+for measurement and naught was said about their right of refusal.
+
+When, toward evening, we returned from San Estevan, tired but quite
+satisfied with the day's work, we found a delegation of more than a
+dozen men waiting for us in the _plaza_. We did not need so large a
+number to complete our work, and it was nearly dark; we would gladly
+have dismissed them and run our chances of securing others the next
+day. But neither they nor the _jefe politico_ were to be bluffed. So we
+marched into the corridor, lighted candles and got to work. When those
+lacking to make our full hundred had been measured, we proposed to let
+the others go, but they were not to be thus got rid of, and insisted
+on being measured as such were the orders of the governor. We were not
+through until long after dark, and we were ravenously hungry.
+
+This delegation was one of the most attractive, clean, and intelligent
+with whom we had dealt. It was from Los Reyes, a little town at a
+distance of about half a league. It was headed by the village _juez_.
+After we had completed the measuring, they stood, shifting their
+_sombreros_ from hand to hand and plainly wishing to say something
+further; finally, mustering courage, the _juez_ and _secretario_
+advanced and stated that it was the town's desire to have a picture
+taken of the church, with the saint and people of the village before
+the door. Would it be possible for us to make the picture and on what
+conditions? We replied that time was precious and that the trip, if it
+involved a loss of time, was quite impossible; but if they supplied
+carriers to take the instruments to and from their village, and had all
+ready before seven in the morning, we would make it. Delighted, the
+officials then inquired what we would wish for breakfast; we answered
+French bread and red wine. When we looked out of our window, a little
+before seven, we saw our party ready and waiting. The _juez_, the
+_secretario_, and two others made the company. A basket, carefully
+carried by one, was suspected to contain our breakfast. The burdens were
+shouldered, and we started out in the cool, fresh morning air, for the
+village, where we arrived in about half an hour. It is a town of less
+than one hundred people, situated upon a little mountain, hidden, to one
+looking from Tlaxcala, by intervening hills. We were received in the
+town-house, which is a portion of the old church building; mass was in
+progress, and we told those who received us, that we had no wish to
+interfere with their religious duties; that those who wished, might go
+to service. Most went, but two or three were left as a committee of
+entertainment. They took us to a view-point from which there was a
+magnificent valley to be seen. And, here, we found one of the finest
+echoes possible. Rockets were exploded and the noise was echoed
+from hill to hill around the great amphitheatre; it was like a long
+reverberation of thunder, but it sank and swelled, sank and swelled,
+repeatedly, until it seemed that it would never stop. Service over, the
+procession formed, and the _santito_ was brought out before the church.
+The townspeople were arranged and the view taken. We were then invited
+in to breakfast, which was fine. There were plenty of French rolls and
+the red wine brought from town, and a great heap of _enchiladas_, fresh
+lettuce and eggs. After eating, we expressed a wish to hear the village
+drum, a great _huehuetl_. This musical instrument is a reminder of the
+olden times; it is not found everywhere, but a number of indian towns
+possess one, which is kept to be played on festal occasions. The one as
+Los Reyes was some three feet or so in height, a hollow cylinder of wood
+with a membrane stretched across the upper end; it was painted blue.
+A chair of state was placed for me in the little _patio_. After I was
+seated the three musicians took their places,--one played the great
+_huehuetl_, a second beat the _tambour_ or ordinary drum, the third
+performed upon the _chirimiya_, a shrill wooden pipe. It was the first
+time we had really heard a _huehuetl_. The player used two sticks with
+padded heads, beating with great force in excellent time. The booming of
+the instruments was audible to a great distance. The whole village had
+gathered, and in a momentary lull in the music, I told the people of the
+ancient use of the _huehuetl_; that Bernal Diaz, in his history of the
+Conquest of Mexico, tells us what feelings filled the hearts of the
+Spaniards, when they heard the great _huehuetl_, in the temple of the
+ancient city of Tenochtitlan; then it was chiefly beaten when human
+victims were being sacrificed to the gods, and the soldiers knew that
+some fellow-countryman, or a Tlaxcalan ally, was dying. Never have I
+given a public lecture, that was listened to with more attention or
+greater appreciation.
+
+[Illustration: THE VILLAGE AND ITS SAINT; LOS REYES]
+
+[Illustration: CUEZCOMATE, OR GRANARY; SAN NICOLAS PANOTLA]
+
+The day we measured women at San Estevan, we found an indian mason
+there at work, whom we had measured at Tlaxcala, and with whom, on one
+occasion, we had some conversation. He was disgusted at the conduct of
+the women while undergoing measurement, and at evening said, "Sir, it is
+a pity for you to waste your time in a town like this; these people are
+little better than animals; in my town there is great enthusiasm over
+your work, and by going there you might do your will and find people
+with minds, not beasts." There was really no work left to be done, but
+we desired to see a town where there was great enthusiasm over our
+investigations. Hence, we arranged with Ignacio Cempoalteca to visit his
+pueblo of San Nicolas Panotla. Accordingly, on the afternoon of the day
+when we visited Los Reyes, we went across the valley to Panotla, Ignacio
+and an older brother, Jose, met us at the hotel, where--excusing
+himself on account of the mason-work at San Estevan, which could not
+wait--Ignacio left us, assuring us that Jose would do everything for us.
+This was quite true, and we found Panotla all that it had been painted.
+
+Jose led us directly to their home. The walls were well built of stone
+set in adobe mortar; they were smoothly coated with a snowy plaster; the
+supporting walls of the little terrace on which the house was built were
+also well constructed and it was with some pride that Jose told us that
+the work had all been done by himself and Ignacio. Jose is married and
+has a wife and three children; Ignacio is a bachelor; a younger
+brother, Carmen, is also unmarried--he has taught himself free-hand and
+architectural drawing and showed us examples of his work. The old father
+and mother own the home and received us hospitably. Jose guided us
+through the village, where we photographed whatever took our fancy,
+entered houses, examined all that interested us, and really found
+enthusiasm for our work everywhere. Before the churchyard stands a
+quaint old cross of stone, dated 1728, upon which are represented all
+the symbols of Christ's passion; a long inscription in Aztec is cut into
+the base. Close by the church, we visited the boy's school, where
+we found some forty dark-skinned, black-eyed, youngsters, whose
+mother-speech is Aztec. We proposed to photograph them, so they were
+grouped outside the schoolhouse, but not until a pair of national flags
+and the portrait of the governor, Prospero Cahuantzi, were fixed upon
+the background wall.
+
+[Illustration: THE ANCIENT DRUM--HUEHUETL; LOS REYES]
+
+[Illustration: FIESTA AT CHOLULA; DAY OF SAN ANTONIO ABAD]
+
+After the picture had been taken, we told the _maestro_ we would like
+to hear the boys sing. It was plain he did not consider singing their
+strong forte, but our wishes were met. One boy, standing, wielded the
+baton, beating time. When the singing was done with, the _maestro_
+said he would like us to see the class in arithmetic, if we had time.
+Accordingly fourteen or fifteen boys, from ten to fourteen years of
+age, stepped out upon the dirt floor; we were told that they could
+work examples in percentage, interest, bonds and mortgages, discount,
+alligation--which did we prefer? Truth to say, it was so long since we
+had studied alligation, that we had really forgotten what it was, and
+so expressed a preference for it. "Very good, sir," said the _maestro_.
+"Will you not propound a problem?" From this quandary we escaped
+by stating that we could not think of doing so; that we had every
+confidence in his fairness and that he had better give it, as the boys
+were more accustomed to him. We have visited many classes of the same
+grade and age in the United States and have never seen one that would
+surpass them in quickness, accuracy, and clearness of explanation. After
+our trip through San Nicolas Panotla, Jose took us back to his house,
+where, meantime, a, dinner had been made ready.
+
+
+
+Weeks later, we learned the probable reason of the governor's gruffness,
+which was in such marked contrast to his previous treatment, that it
+puzzled us considerably. At about the time of our visit, a number of
+wealthy _hacienderos,_ of the State of Tlaxcala, had been arrested for
+counterfeiting silver money. They were men whose _maguey_ fields brought
+them enormous incomes; one would suppose their legitimate sources of
+wealth would have contented them! But such was not the case, and they
+had gone into wholesale counterfeiting. The fraudulent coin had long
+been known and diligent efforts were made to find the criminals, efforts
+at last crowned with success. The guilt was fixed without a doubt, the
+parties were arrested, tried, and sentenced. Every attempt was made to
+secure their pardon, in vain. Governor Cahuantzi is an old friend of
+President Diaz, believed to have great influence with him. Men of
+wealth, interested in the release and pardon of the criminals, promised
+Cahuantzi ten thousand dollars in case of his successful intercession
+with the President in the matter. These details, not generally known, we
+received from a source respectable and trustworthy, and we believe them
+true. Anxious to gain the reward, and probably feeling certain of his
+influence with Diaz, the old man made the journey to Mexico. It was the
+very time when we called upon him. When we had our interview, he had
+just seen the President, and it is hinted that, not only did Don
+Porfirio refuse to pardon the counterfeiters, but showed a dangerous
+inclination to investigate the reason of the indian governor's
+intervention. No wonder that the old man was gruff and surly to his
+visitors, after the loss of ten thousand dollars which he had looked
+upon as certain, and with uncertainty as to the final outcome of his
+unlucky business.
+
+[Illustration: TLAXCALAN SCHOOLBOYS; SAN NICOLAS PANOTLA]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX
+
+ZAMORA AND THE ONCE PUEBLOS
+
+(1898)
+
+
+The morning train from Guadalajara brought us to Negrete at about two
+in the afternoon, and we had soon mounted to the top of the clumsy old
+coach, which was dragged by six horses. The road to Zamora runs through
+a rich farming district. For the greater part of the distance the road
+is level and passes amidst great _haciendas_. The corn crop had been
+abundant and carts were constantly coming and going from and to the
+fields. These carts were rectangular, with side walls some four or five
+feet in height, made of corn-stalks set close together and upright.
+All were drawn by oxen. Most of the carts had a light cross, made of
+corn-stalks, set at the front end, to protect the load from adverse
+influences. Great numbers of men, dressed in leather trousers drawn over
+their cotton drawers, in single file lined past us, with great
+baskets full of corn strapped on their backs. Here and there, in the
+corn-fields, groups of such men were cutting the ripened ears from the
+plants.
+
+We now and then met groups of men bringing great timbers from the
+mountains fifty or sixty miles away. These timbers were many feet in
+length and trimmed to a foot square; from four to six made a load. The
+cart upon which they were carried consisted of a pair of wheels and an
+axle; one end of the timbers was attached to this, and the other was
+fastened to the yoke of oxen. It was rare that we met with a single
+timber cart, as four or five usually went together. The drivers who were
+in charge of them were pure Tarascans.
+
+For a considerable distance a fine slope rose to our left, strewn
+with loose rock masses, and covered with a growth which was chiefly
+_pitahaya_, some of the plants attaining the size of grown trees. Many
+of them presented an appearance which we had not seen elsewhere--the
+tips and upper part of the upright branches being as white as if
+intentionally whitewashed; the simple explanation of this strange
+appearance was that the branches in question had served as buzzards'
+roosts. Our journey of twenty-five miles was made with two relays of
+horses. After perhaps three hours' riding, we reached the Zamora River,
+which we followed for some distance. From the time when we began to
+follow this stream, our road was almost a dead level. At many places
+along the river, we saw a peculiar style of irrigation machine, a great
+wooden scoop or spoon with long handle swung between supporting poles.
+The instrument was worked by a single man and scooped up water from the
+river, throwing it upon the higher land and into canals which carried it
+through the fields. Sometimes two of these scoops were supported side by
+side upon a single frame, and were worked in unison by two persons. At
+the only town of any consequence upon the road, we found numbers of
+interesting hot springs which might really be called geysers. They were
+scattered at intervals over the flat mud plain for a distance of a half
+mile or more. We could see jets of steam of more or less vigor rising
+from a score or so at a time. At some of these the water really boiled,
+and we saw it bubbling and tossing to a height of a foot or so above the
+margin of the spring. Groups of women, laughing and talking or singing
+snatches of songs, were washing clothes at several of these hot springs,
+and the garments were spread out over the bushes and trees to dry. At
+one little geyser, bubbling up in the very middle of the road, as we
+passed we saw a boy pelting the water with stones and mud in order to
+make it mad and see it spout. The plain was sprinkled here and there
+with thickets of acacia and mesquite. In the early evening the breeze
+came loaded with the fragrance of the golden balls of the acacia. There
+was bright moonlight, and we could see the country, even after sunset.
+The latter portion of the journey was through low swampy ground, much of
+the time over causeways.
+
+There are few towns in central Mexico, not on a railroad, to be compared
+with Zamora. It is large, clean, well built, and presents an air of
+unusual comfort. The main _plaza_ is large, and finely planted with
+palms, orange-trees, roses and flowering shrubs. The orange-trees
+were in full bloom and the air was heavy with their odor. The town is
+electric-lighted and has a good system of waterworks. The great church,
+with two slender towers, fills up the whole of one side of the _plaza_,
+while the other three are occupied with business houses. The amount of
+life in the town at night surprised us. Even after ten o'clock, many
+were on the streets, and the _dulce_ stands, _cafe_ tables and _loto_
+hall were doing a large business. Few towns in Mexico are so completely
+under priestly influence, but few again appear as prosperous,
+progressive, and well-behaved. Two distinct types of houses
+predominate, the older and the newer. The old style house is such as
+is characteristic of many other Tarascan towns, but is here more
+picturesquely developed than in most places. The low-sloped,
+heavily-tiled roof projects far over the street and is supported below
+by projecting timbers, which are trimmed at the end to give a pleasing
+finish. So far do these roofs project over the sidewalk that the water
+is thrown into the middle of the street and the footpath below is well
+sheltered. The new style of house, which is required by the recent laws,
+has an almost flat roof which ends squarely at the sidewalk, and from
+which long tin pipes project to throw the water into the streets. Here,
+as so frequently, the old fashion is at once more comfortable and more
+artistic.
+
+We spent the morning in efforts to secure horses, but finally secured a
+man, Don Nabor, who agreed to accompany us with five animals. The party
+consisted of myself, my interpreter, my plaster-worker, and Don Nabor.
+Each of us was mounted, and a fifth horse carried the plaster and other
+luggage. Leaving at noon, we took the long road past Jacona, a little
+town famous for its fruit. Having passed there, after a long journey, we
+looked down from the height almost directly upon the place whence we
+had started. The scene was of unusual beauty--the wide-spreading, flat
+valley, with its fields of wheat and clustered trees, presented a mass
+of rich green coloring, in the midst of which stood the pretty
+city. After a long climb, we descended into a valley in which lies
+Tangancicuaro, a large town with a _plaza_ full of fine, great trees,
+where we ate at a quaint little _meson_. From here we pushed on to
+Chilchota, the head town of the Once Pueblos. From the crest, just above
+the town, we looked down upon a level valley, green with new wheat.
+Entering the town a little after five, we rode up to the _meson_ of
+San Francisco, near the little _plaza_. It was with difficulty that we
+secured a room containing a single bed, with mattress, and two mats.
+There was nothing at all to eat at the _meson_, but on strolling out to
+the _plaza_ we found some Indian women selling _atole_ and bread.
+With this we were compelled to be content until morning, paying seven
+_centavos_ for our four suppers. Hunting up the _presidente_ of the
+town, we found him sitting, with his court, on benches in the _plaza_.
+He was a pleasant, rather dressy young man, but at once took interest in
+our work, and told us that Huancito was the best town for our bust work,
+as the population there is primitive and purely indian.
+
+The Once Pueblos--eleven towns--are famous through this portion of
+the Republic. Several of them are purely indian; Chilchota is largely
+_mestizo_. The towns lie in a long line on the side of the little
+valley, at the foot of the bordering hills. Between some, spaces of
+considerable extent intervene; others are so close together that, in
+riding through them, one sees no line of separation. All consist of
+adobe houses, of a rich brown color, roofed with tiles. Some of the
+churches are of considerable size, but are also built of brown adobe.
+The Once Pueblos are famous for their pottery, and in some of them
+almost every house has its little kiln or oven. Fruit is cultivated,
+and the houses are frequently embowered in trees; in many yards are
+bee-hives. The valley is abundantly watered with little streams of
+perfect clearness.
+
+The _presidente_ had insisted that the school teacher at Huancito would
+prove invaluable. He gave us a letter of introduction to him, and an
+order upon the authorities. We were at once given possession of the
+schoolhouse for our work, and I started out to find a subject. Almost
+the first person encountered was a young man of twenty-three years, who
+presented the pure Tarascan type. I at once told him that he was the
+very man we wanted; that we planned to make a picture of him in plaster;
+at the same time, I described the method of work, and while talking,
+holding him by the arm, drew him over toward the schoolhouse. Almost
+before he realized it, we were ready for the task. As he removed his
+shirt and prepared for the operation of oiling and the application of
+the plaster, he looked somewhat sombre. After seeing the work well
+begun, I stepped outside and sat in the portico until it should be
+done. The first piece of plaster had been applied, the subject had been
+turned, and was lying ready for the second application. At this moment,
+an indian maiden, with dishevelled hair, came rapidly running across
+the _plaza_ toward the schoolhouse. Rushing past me, she entered the
+school-room, and seeing the subject lying on the floor clasped her hands
+and cried, "Florencito! My Florencito, why wait here? Stay not with
+these cruel men; flee with me!" Seizing him by the hand, they dislodged
+the plaster from his shoulders and started for the door, but catching
+sight of me, cast a glance around, saw the open window, and leaping
+through it, dashed off home. Up to this time the local authorities had
+shown an interest in our work and a willingness to aid. Calling the
+chief of police, I bade him and the teacher seek our subject and bring
+him back for the completion of the operation. "But, sir," said the chief
+of police, "suppose he does not wish to come?" "Why are you chief of
+police?" was my reply. The teacher, who is himself a _mestizo_ and
+despises the poor indians in his charge, was loud in his complaints. He
+vigorously declared that what these people needed was a second Cortez,
+that they had never been properly conquered, and, with the chief of
+police, he started out for the new conquest. After an hour or more of
+waiting, we saw them reappear with Florencito. But humanity is ever
+loath to admit defeat. As he passed us, he grumbled that he saw no good
+reason for such a fuss, as he had simply gone to eat his breakfast.
+
+Having completed the work with this subject, we suggested that others
+should be brought, but met with a prompt refusal. The judge and the
+chief of police both declared that the people did not wish to have busts
+made, and that they would bring no more. In vain I suggested that a
+meeting of the townspeople should be called together in order that
+we might address them and explain the purpose of our visit. It was
+impossible to move the officials. Finally I told the judge that I should
+send a mounted messenger, who had accompanied us from the _presidente_,
+to Chilchota to report the failure of the town officials to do their
+duty. He promptly declared that he was going to Chilchota himself to
+see the _presidente_ in the matter. Sure enough, when my messenger was
+ready, he had made his preparations, and the two departed together to
+present the different sides of the question. Neither returned until
+we were through for the day. During the afternoon we secured two more
+subjects, and by nightfall had three good busts as the result of the
+day's labor. Then we faced new difficulties. Carriers could not be had
+for love nor money. What was wanted were three men, one to carry each
+bust back to Chilchota, where we planned to spend the night. Finally,
+after loss of time and temper, each of us shouldered a bust and rode
+back on horseback with our trophies.
+
+We soon discovered that the eleven towns were in a ferment of
+excitement. Most dreadful tales were rife with regard to us and our
+work. Some asserted that we cut off heads and hung them up to dry; that
+in drying, they turned white. Others reported that with knives, made for
+the purpose, we sliced off the ears of unfortunate indians, close to
+their heads. Still others reported that we had a frightful instrument
+which was fitted into the nose, and by means of which we tore strips
+of flesh and skin from the face of the subject. It was said, and quite
+likely truly, that they were arming in all the houses; that _machetes_,
+guns, pistols, and clubs were laid convenient to hand.
+
+The next day was Sunday, and we made no attempt to continue work. It was
+market-day, and indians from all the pueblos had gathered in the _plaza_
+to buy and sell. All were pure in blood and spoke Tarascan. Fruits,
+sugar-cane, corn, _tortillas, atole_, coffee, were the chief staples.
+Stocks of pottery were attractively displayed. Two characteristic wares
+are both pretty. Most typical, perhaps, is the black and green ware
+which is made into bowls, plates, mugs, and pitchers. The clay of which
+it is baked is local and dark brown in color; a white earth applied to
+this, on baking, gives rise to a rich metallic green glaze. Designs are
+painted upon this in black. This black and green ware goes far and
+wide, and everywhere is recognized as coming from the Once Pueblos. At
+Huancito and some other pueblos, they make little _canteras_ with a red
+ground and decorative designs in black and white. One thing, offered in
+the market, was new to us, dishes full of _ucuares_--long, irregular,
+swollen, dry, brown objects that looked like stewed worms with thick and
+fleshy skins. One _centavo_ bought far more than any person would be
+likely to eat; even after having been stewed in sugar, they were bitter,
+and had a foul smell that was most unpleasant; they appeared to be roots
+or tubers of some plant.
+
+Naturally, our work had attracted much attention in Chilchota. No one
+of the many dozen visitors who came to see us at the _meson_ was so
+profoundly impressed as a boy of fourteen, named Ignacio. Appearing
+early in the morning, he remained with us almost all the hours of the
+twenty-four. Thinking that the effect on the villagers might be good,
+I decided to ride in the afternoon through the pueblos. When the
+_presidente_ discovered my intention, he insisted upon supplying a
+mounted and armed escort, and at the same time gave me a general letter
+to the eleven towns, in which strict orders were given that my wishes
+should be respected, and dire threats made in case any one should show
+me aught but the greatest consideration. Ignacio accompanied me. Riding
+through the towns, we passed far enough beyond Huancito to see the most
+remote of the eleven pueblos. They are separated somewhat from the rest,
+and lie rather higher up in a bend of the valley. Everywhere I took some
+pains to talk with the people, to visit their houses, to examine their
+pottery, their bees and their growing crops, as I felt that such an
+interest would help us in our work. On our return, Ignacio told me that
+he should stay to dinner with us, as he much preferred to do so to going
+home. He also told me that it would be a great pity to lose the theatre,
+which was to take place that evening. Accordingly, after dinner was
+over, we went to see the play. I expected that at that season of the
+year it would be a _pastorela_--and in fact it had been so announced.
+It was, however, a true drama, and one of the
+funniest--unintentionally--imaginable. The stage was set in the middle
+of the _patio_ of a large house. The boy insisted that we would be late,
+and so we went at 7:15, although the bill announced the hour as 8. The
+spectators brought their own chairs with them. Except a few youngsters,
+no one arrived before 9, and the curtain at last rose at a quarter
+before eleven. Among the last to arrive was the _presidente_ and his
+party. He was resplendent in a cape of crimson velvet with brilliant
+yellow facings. Hardly was his party seated, when we were politely
+invited to sit with them. Three acts were rendered, and while waiting
+for the fourth, one of the party declared that there would be eleven
+more. This gave the _presidente_ an opportunity to relate an experience
+of his own. On one occasion, after watching a play from seven in the
+evening until four in the morning, the stage broke down; the management
+appeared and apologized regarding the accident, particularly, since some
+twenty acts were still to have been rendered. Our play, however, turned
+out to have had but eight acts, and one of these was omitted. When it
+should have been given, the whole troupe appeared upon the platform;
+the manager announced the reason why the act would not be given, but
+promised that on the following Sunday, in another play, an extra act
+should be inserted, in order that all might receive the full value of
+their money. Our play ended at one, when the audience dispersed.
+
+Needing but two more subjects, we looked about Chilchota the next day,
+hoping to find indians from the more remote villages, who might permit
+their busts to be made. Two excellent cases were found. The last was a
+man from Carapan, the most remote of the eleven towns. He was a man of
+forty years, whose father accompanied him, and both were for a long time
+dubious about the operation. Finally, however, consent was given and the
+bust was made. As he arose and dressed to go, I said, "Did I tell you
+the truth? Did the operation hurt you, or did it not? Was there a reason
+why you should not have your bust made?" He promptly answered, "Sir, you
+told me truth; the operation did not hurt me and there surely is no harm
+in it; but, sir, you can hardly believe what an excitement this work has
+caused in our town. Yesterday, in the market-place at Chilchota, there
+were more than twenty men from Carapan who carried weapons in their
+clothing. We had selected leaders and arranged signals, and at the first
+sign of an attack from your party, we were prepared to sell our lives
+dearly."
+
+It was a work of time to fill the moulds and pack the busts. Before
+we were ready to start upon our journey, it was half-past four in the
+afternoon. True wisdom would have suggested waiting until morning.
+Time, however, was precious, and I hoped to make Cheran that night;
+consequently, though against the advice of many, we started out, with
+eight leagues to go, over a road with a bad reputation, and at some
+points difficult to traverse. For a little distance, we followed the
+familiar trail down through the pueblos, but at Tanaquillo we turned
+up into the mountain. The ascent was steady until we reached the pass,
+through which an icy wind drove down upon us. We could hope to make the
+distance in six hours. At first we met many persons, all of whom warned
+us that we would be late in arriving, and recommended that we should
+stop at Rancho Seco. We had no intention of so doing, but knew that
+we must turn at that point into a new road. Between sunset and bright
+moonlight, there was an interval of darkness, and in that interval we
+must have passed the turning which led to Rancho Seco. At all events,
+we presently found ourselves entirely at a loss, wandering over a rocky
+hill covered with brush, amid which the trail had entirely disappeared.
+Retracing, as well as we could, our road, we finally found ourselves
+upon another trail which we followed until 9:30, when we met a little
+band of indians, the first whom we had seen for a long time. From them
+we found that we were not upon the road for Cheran, but at the edge of
+a slope at the bottom of which was a little indian town, Tanaco.
+Descending to it, we found a house where they agreed to shelter us for
+the night, and in the _tienda_ near by we bought hard bread and old
+cheese. We were sheltered in a substantially built room, into which the
+cold air did not penetrate. The indians with whom we were staying were
+unusually intelligent; a number of books, including a large dictionary,
+lay upon the table, and the men, who crowded in upon us, were anxious to
+learn the English words for common things. This was an experience which
+rarely happened to us in indian Mexico. The people, however, were not
+quite sure of our intentions, and Nabor said that when he went to water
+the horses, a committee of village folk waited upon him, asking whether
+we were the party of white men who had been skinning live indians over
+in the Once Pueblos.
+
+There were four leagues between us and Cheran, and many more beyond it
+to Patzcuaro, where we hoped to arrive the next night. Accordingly, we
+made an early start. Our host agreed to pilot us over the indistinct and
+tortuous bridle-path to the high-road. Many little mountains, almost
+artificially regular, arose in the otherwise plain country. As we rode
+along the trail we saw the church of Parracho far behind us in the
+distance. The latter part of the road, after Cheran was once in sight,
+seemed hopelessly long, but a little before ten o'clock we pulled up at
+the _meson_. We at once made arangements for food for ourselves and the
+horses, and determined to rest until noon. Our reputation had preceded
+us. I asked a child at the _meson_ to bring me a mug of water. When he
+brought it, I noticed that the mug was of the characteristic black and
+green ware of the Once Pueblos, but asked the boy where it was made.
+With a cunning look, he answered, "O yes, that comes from where you
+people have been,--up at the Once Pueblos." And yet we had not come over
+the road from the Once Pueblos, but by the main highway from Parracho.
+
+Rested and refreshed, we started at 12:30 for the long fourteen leagues
+of journey. We passed Pichataro, where the round paddles for Patzcuaro
+canoes are made, and where the applewood, so prized as material for
+spear-throwers, is procured. We passed Sabina, where the canoes
+themselves are hollowed out, miles from their launching place, to which
+they must be carried over mountains. Each town we passed made me more
+and more uneasy, as I knew that Nabor contemplated revolt. He did not
+like the idea of too long a journey for his horses. He wished to stop
+long before the goal that I had fixed. When we left the last of the
+important towns behind us, I felt for the first time secure. It was now
+dark, and we found the roads far worse than we remembered them. They
+were worn into deep gullies, into which our horses fell and over which
+they stumbled. Long before reaching Ajuno I felt convinced that we had
+missed the road, but we floundered on, and never was sight more welcome
+than the light of fires shining through the cane walls of the wretched
+huts of that miserable town. Here there was a final council regarding
+resting for the night. The whole party, except myself, considered Ajuno
+as a capital resting-place. All yielded, however, and we continued on
+our way. It was almost midnight when we rode up to the hotel, upon the
+_plaza_ in quaint old Patzcuaro. All were cross and tired; neither
+crossness nor weariness were helped when we were told that there was no
+room for us at the inn. We made such vigorous representations, however,
+that the doors were finally thrown open. An old store-house was cleaned
+out and supplied with decent beds, and a good supper was served.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X
+
+THE BOY WITH THE SMILE
+
+(1898)
+
+
+It is doubtful whether the common people of any country are so rarely
+surprised, or taken unaware, as those of Mexico. At a moment's notice,
+the commonest indian, who may have scarcely been outside of his own
+town in all his life, may start to go across the country. Astonishing
+incidents appear to create no more surprise in their minds than the
+ordinary affairs of every day. In January, 1898, we revisited Cholula.
+As we alighted from the street-car we noticed a boy, some fourteen years
+old, whose most striking characteristic was his smile. He wished to
+serve as guide, to show us the pyramid, the convents, the chapel of the
+natives. On assuring him that we knew far more about the lions of his
+town than he, he was in no wise abashed, but joined himself to us for
+the remainder of the day. He accompanied us to see the blessing of the
+animals in the great churchyard. He displayed an interesting knowledge
+of English, answering "yes" quite perfectly to every sort of question,
+and repeating the two words, which are well known the whole world over
+as American-English, on all conceivable occasions. When at evening he
+saw us safely on the street-car he left us with the same smile with
+which he had received us. On our next visit to Cholula much the same
+thing happened, but learning that we planned to stop at Cuauhtlantzinco
+on our way to Puebla, he stole a ride upon the car, for the sake of
+accompanying us. He was a rather handy boy, good-natured and anxious to
+please, so that, later in our journey, we hired him for several days and
+let him do what he could to help us.
+
+Much later, when at home planning the details of our next extensive
+journey, the thought struck us that it might be well to make the boy
+with the smile a member of our party. It seemed as if, in going into
+districts rarely visited by strangers, it would be well to have the
+party as largely Mexican as possible. If, however, the boy were to
+accompany us, it was necessary that he should first learn something of
+our work and needs, and perhaps of English. Accordingly, I decided to go
+to Cholula and bring the boy up to the States.
+
+The resolution was so hastily taken that there was no time to send word
+to the boy himself. Going straight to Cholula, I had some difficulty in
+finding his abode. I knew that the boy had no father, that his widowed
+mother had but one other child, a girl younger than the boy himself. I
+had once seen the mother and the little sister; I also knew the street
+on which they lived. Arriving at the street, however, no one apparently
+had ever heard of the boy. One and another through the whole length of
+the street was questioned, but none knew his name or recognized his
+description. Excepting that I knew that trait of Mexican character which
+assists acquaintances to seclusion, when they are sought by strangers, I
+should have despaired. As it was, I kept on asking, and finally, from a
+child who could hardly speak on account of youth, I discovered the house
+which I sought. It was a little hut set back behind a yard of growing
+corn. I had inquired at the houses on either side and at the house
+across the road, as also of a man working in the corn in the yard
+itself. But everyone had been profoundly ignorant of the boy's
+existence. Walking up to the house, I found the door open, and the
+mother and the little girl within. The moment the woman saw me, she
+said, "_Que milagro, Senor_!" (What a miracle, sir!) and rising, gave me
+a warm embrace. The little girl did the same. "And where is Manuel?" I
+inquired. "Ah, sir, he has gone to Puebla on an errand for a gentleman;
+but he will be back on the street-car at half-past ten. Pray wait, sir,
+till he comes."
+
+The house consisted, like most of its class, of a single room. The walls
+were built of sun-dried bricks of adobe. Entrance was by a single door.
+There were no windows. The floor was clay. The flat roof was scarcely
+six feet above the floor. The furniture, though ample, was scanty. A
+little earthen brazier for heating and cooking, a stone _metate_, a
+rubbing-stone for grinding corn-meal, a table heaped with bundles and
+boxes containing the family clothing, and a chair were all. There were
+no beds, not even the mats which so frequently, among the poor of
+Mexico, take their place. Several pictures of saints and of the virgin
+were pinned against the wall, and there were signs of tapers which had
+been burned before them. A bird or two in wooden cages, a rooster and a
+little dog lived in the house with the family.
+
+After answering various questions from the good woman and the little
+girl, I finally stated that I proposed to take Manuel with me to my
+country. He would stay with me there for six months, after which he
+would come back and accompany me for three months longer on a journey
+into southern Mexico. "If I have your consent," I said, "we leave
+to-day." Immediately the woman answered, "Sir, it is for you to say."
+Just then, however, the little girl, Dolores, began to cry. "Tut, tut,
+Dolores," said I, "I am sure you want Manuel to go away and visit a
+strange country and have a fine time; and think of the pictures that
+he can bring you to show what he has seen. And more than that, it is
+already half-past ten, and you shall go down tothe street-car to meet
+him, and tell him that he must come straight home, for fear that he will
+loiter on the way; but do not tell him I am here, nor say anything about
+his going away, for we wish to surprise him." Drying her eyes, and
+smiling almost as the boy himself, Dolores started to run to the
+street-car line, and presently fetched Manuel home in triumph. As he
+entered and saw me, he said, "_Que milagro, Senor_" and kissed my hand.
+Having asked, as Mexican politeness requires, a variety of questions
+about his welfare, I finally said, "Well, Manuel, how would you like to
+go to Puebla with me for the day?" "Sir, it is for you to say." "Very
+good," said I. "And if I should conclude that it was best to take you to
+Mexico for a few days, what would you say to that?" "I am entirely in
+your hands, sir," he replied, "to do your orders." "Well," said I,
+"suppose I took you to my own country and kept you there for six
+months?" and the boy replied, "Sir, you are my owner; it is for you
+to command." "Very well," said I, "get ready, and we will go on the
+street-car, at twelve o'clock, to Puebla."
+
+[Illustration: THE CROSS; SAN NICOLAS PANOTLA]
+
+[Illustration: THE BOY WITH THE SMILE]
+
+Telling his mother that she should put together the few articles of
+which there might be need, we started for the noonday car. As we left,
+I suggested that she and the little girl come to the city, during the
+afternoon or evening, to bid the boy good-bye, as we should leave on an
+early train the following morning. They came at nightfall. She had his
+small possessions tied up in a carrying cloth, and her mind was stored
+with bits of excellent advice and admonition as to his conduct and
+behaviour in his new surroundings. After Dolores and her brother had
+given each other a, farewell embrace, the mother said a few words to the
+boy, who knelt upon the floor of the room and crossed his hands upon
+his breast. The mother then gave him her parting blessing, and sent him
+forth into the outside world.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI
+
+IN THE MIXTECA ALTA
+
+(1898)
+
+
+Of all railroad cities in the Republic, Oaxaca is the most completely
+indian. It is the capital of a state the population of which is
+nine-tenths of native blood. Fifteen native languages are spoken in the
+state to-day. While some of these are related to each other, they are
+distinct languages, not dialects, even those which are related being as
+unlike as the French, Italian, and Spanish. The indians commonly seen on
+the city streets are Zapotecs or Mixtecs, but at times Mixes come from
+their distant mountain homes with burdens on their backs, or parties
+of Tehuantepecanas attract attention, by their fine forms and striking
+dress, as they walk through the streets. The market is crowded, even
+late in the day; ox-carts from the indian towns for miles around are
+constantly seen in the streets. Most of the sellers in the market are
+indians; they bring fruits and vegetables, dried fish from the Pacific,
+_jicaras_ and strainers of gourds, beautifully painted and polished
+gourds from Ocotopec, honey, sugar--both the crude brown and the refined
+yellow cakes--and pottery. The indian pottery here sold is famous. Three
+kinds of wares are well known--a dull plain red, an unglazed but highly
+polished black, and a brilliant glazed green. The black ware is made
+into useful vessels, and also into a variety of toys, chiefly whistles
+and bells. Pottery would seem to be one of the least suitable materials
+for bells. Here, however, bells of pottery in many shapes are
+found--little bells, with handles like the upper part of a human figure;
+larger bells, with curious flat handles set transversely; others, still
+larger, like cow-bells in size and tone, and curious cross-shaped bells,
+really a group of four united. Among the whistles some are made into the
+shape of animals and birds and curious human figures; among the latter,
+some closely resemble ancient whistles from the prehistoric graves. This
+black ware is made at Coyotepec, and when the objects are first taken
+from the kiln they are almost white; before they are cold, they
+are exposed to dense smoke, and thus assume their black color. The
+brilliantly glazed green ware is the most attractive. Vessels made from
+it are thin, and, in the parts which are unglazed, resemble common
+flower-pot ware. The larger portion of their surfaces, however, is
+covered with a rich, thick, emerald-green glaze. Cups, bowls, saucers,
+plates, sugar-bowls, tea-pots, flasks, and censers are among the forms
+commonly made in this ware. The shapes are often graceful and the
+prices low. Most beautiful, however, and relatively expensive, are the
+miniature vessels made in this ware--scarcely an inch in height, but
+formed with the greatest care, and in such variety of dainty forms that
+one may seek some time to duplicate a piece which he has found; these
+little pieces are completely covered with the rich green glaze both
+outside and inside.
+
+Our plan of journey for the year was first to make an expedition from
+Oaxaca to the north-west, into the Mixteca Alta; returning to Oaxaca,
+to strike eastward by way of Mitla, and the land of the Mixes, to
+Tehuantepec, from which place we should make a brief trip to the Juaves;
+returning to Tehuantepec, we should take the high road, by way of San
+Carlos, back to Oaxaca. Our first duty in the city of Oaxaca was to
+procure letters and orders from the governor. No governor in Mexico more
+completely realizes his importance and dignity than Governor Gonzales of
+Oaxaca. It is ever difficult to secure an audience with him; appointment
+after appointment is made, only to be broken when the inquiring visitor
+presents himself, and has been kept waiting an undue length of time. We
+had been through the experience before, and therefore were not surprised
+that it required four visits, each of them appointed by the governor
+himself, before we really had our interview. Governor Gonzales, is,
+however, an excellent officer. While we were waiting for our letters,
+after having explained to him our errand and plan of procedure, we had
+the opportunity to see a somewhat unusual and interesting sight. Like
+all public buildings and better-grade houses in Mexican cities, the
+governor's palace is built about _patios_, or inner courts. A wide
+balcony surrounds the court at the level of the second story and upon
+it the rooms of that story open. Having given orders that our letters
+should be prepared, the governor excused himself for a few moments, as
+he said that certain of his local authorities were ordered to meet him.
+We were seated where we could watch the reception. As we had entered the
+palace we had been impressed by the great number of indians, carrying
+official staves, who were waiting near the door. We now found that they
+were official delegates from the different towns, and that they had been
+sent from their homes to give the governor New Year's greetings. Having
+carefully arrayed himself for the meeting, the governor took his
+position in the wide balcony already referred to, with two officials of
+the palace stationed near, one on either side. The Indians represented
+perhaps twenty-five different towns, the delegation from each town
+varying from three or four to fifteen or twenty persons. All were
+dressed in their cleanest garments, and all carried their long staves of
+office, most of which had ribbons of bright colors streaming from them.
+The secretary of the governor arranged these delegations in their order,
+and they were presented one by one to the chief executive. As each
+delegation was presented, its members scraped and bowed, and the
+_presidente_ and _secretario_ kissed the governor's hand. A word or two
+of greeting having been exchanged, the spokesman from the village made a
+speech, sometimes read from a written copy, after which he presented
+a bouquet of flowers, real or artificial. The governor received the
+bouquet with a bow, placed the flowers on a little table near by, or, if
+the gift were a large bouquet of real flowers, handed it to one of the
+attendants standing near, and then made a polite speech of response,
+emphasizing it with vigorous gestures and plainly expressive of much
+interest and earnestness. The delegation then took its leave, always
+bowing reverently, and each man kissing the governor's hand as he passed
+out. As he received this mark of respect, the governor would make a
+playful remark, or pat the persons on the head, or otherwise treat
+them as a father might his little children. Instantly the flowers were
+cleared away, the next delegation ushered in, and the same ceremony
+gone through with. Finally, all was ready for our leaving. The party
+consisted of five persons--myself, as leader, Mr. Lang, my American
+photographer, Don Anselmo, my Mexican plaster-worker, Manuel, and the
+_mozo_. All but the _mozo_ were mounted on horses, more or less good or
+bad. The _mozo_, Mariano, a Mixtec indian, went on foot, carrying the
+photographic outfit on his back, and our measuring-rod in his hand.
+It was well on in the afternoon before we started, and hardly were we
+outside the town, before Mr. Lang's horse showed signs of sickness. His
+suffering was plain, and every person we met volunteered the information
+that unless something was done promptly, we should have a dead horse on
+our hands. Going to a little shop on the roadside, where strong drinks
+were sold, we stopped, and after preparing a remedy with the help of a
+passing Indian, threw the horse down, wedged his mouth open, and gave
+him what seemed to be an unsavory draught. More than an hour was lost
+out of our already short afternoon by this veterinary practice, and long
+before we reached Etla, where we were compelled to pass the night, it
+was dark.
+
+Leaving Etla in the morning, looking down as we passed out from the city
+upon a wonderful group of mounds, we passed rather slowly through the
+town of Huitzo. Don Anselmo and I loitered, as we found the whole
+country to be rich in ancient relics, examples of which were to be found
+in almost every house. As the afternoon passed, we found that we were
+likely to be completely left by our companions, and were forced to
+hasten on. The latter part of the daylight ride was up a continuous, and
+at times steep, ascent. As the sun neared setting, we reached the summit
+and found ourselves close by the station of Las Sedas, the highest point
+upon the Mexican Southern Railway. We had there expected to overtake
+the others of our party, but found that they had hurried on. It was a
+serious question whether we should try to overtake them. It had been
+wisdom to have stayed the night where we were. In this uncertainty,
+we met an indian boy driving mules toward Oaxaca, who volunteered the
+information that he had met our companions, who were just ahead, and
+that we would soon overtake them. This decided us, and we started down
+the trail. A heavy wind was blowing, and the night air was cold and
+penetrating. In a few minutes we met a half-breed Mexican, who,
+accosting us at once, urged us to go no further. His manner was somewhat
+sinister and disagreeable. He warned us that, if we attempted to make
+the descent in the darkness, we would at least lame our animals. He
+asserted that our comrades were fully three leagues ahead when he had
+met them, and that we would never overtake them. He also hinted darkly
+as to other dangers of the road, if we should succeed in making the
+descent without breaking the legs of our horses. Refusing his invitation
+to stop with him for the night, we pressed onward, and as we did so, he
+called out derisively after us.
+
+The descent would not have been an easy one, even in the daytime, and
+in the gathering darkness there was really an element of danger in the
+journey. We left the following of the trail almost entirely to our
+animals. We were finally down the worst of the descent before night had
+actually set in. From here on, although the road varied but little from
+a level trail, we were obliged to go slowly, and it was with a feeling
+of true relief that, after floundering for a while in a brook in which
+our road seemed to lose itself, we heard ourselves called by name, from
+an indian hut situated a little way up the bank. As usual, the house
+consisted of a single room, of no great size, and was lightly built
+of cane. Two men, three women, a boy, and three little girls were the
+occupants. Our companions were already resting; their horses were
+unsaddled and were eating contentedly, and we were told that supper
+was being prepared for us. Entering the house, we found the women busy
+making _tortillas_, and fresh goat's meat, hanging from the rafters,
+gave promise of a substantial meal. When all was ready, we sat down to
+the finest of corn-cakes, beans, eggs, and tender kidmeat. We spread our
+blankets under a little shelter which stood in front of one side of the
+house. None of us slept well. It was very cold; dogs barked all night
+long; now and then a sudden outbreak of their barking, and curious
+signals and whistles, which were repeated in various parts of the
+mountain, gave us some uneasiness. At three o'clock in the morning, just
+as we were napping, Don Anselmo startled us by the statement that our
+mule was dead. In a moment, all was excitement. Mariano examined the
+animal and reiterated the statement. As for us, we were in the mood to
+care but little whether the mule was living or dead. Half frozen and
+very weary, our frame of mind was not a cheerful one. Just before
+daybreak we could stand the cold no longer, and gathering some dry wood,
+we started a fire and crowded around it. The report about the mule
+proved to be false, and when morning came, there was no sign that
+anything was the matter with him.
+
+It was nine o'clock before we started on our journey in the morning. We
+had three long hours of clambering up and down heavy slopes, and, much
+of the way, through a stream the bed of which was filled with slippery
+boulders and pebbles, over which the horses slipped and stumbled
+frightfully. Our horses slid down small cascades, but, when we came to
+larger ones, we had to mount the banks by ugly bits of road, descending
+below the falls. After much labor and weariness, we reached El Parian at
+noon. Having rested through the hotter portion of the day, we took the
+road again at two. We followed up the brook-bed to the point where
+another stream entered it, at an acute angle. Up this stream we turned,
+and after following it a little, struck suddenly up a steep hill, and
+then climbed on and on over a good road, cut in the limestone rock, up
+and up, until we reached the very summit. The vegetation here was a
+curious assemblage,--palms, cedars, oaks, and a mimosa-like tree, formed
+the chief types. The limestone rock upon the summit was curiously
+eroded, as if by rain rills. The masses presented all the appearance
+and detail of erosion shown by the great mountain mass of the country
+itself; looking at one of these little models, only a few feet across,
+and then gazing out upon the great tangle of mountain peaks around us,
+one could almost imagine that the one was the intentional reproduction
+of the other, in miniature. For a long time we followed the almost
+level summit; then a little climb and a slight descent brought us to
+Huaclilla. At the _meson_ we found real rooms and true beds, and decided
+to stay for the night. The supper was less attractive. A brief walk
+about the village brought to light two cases of small-pox, and, on
+returning to the _meson_, we were charmed to find a third one in the
+building itself. Still, we slept well, and were up betimes next morning.
+The country through which we were passing was Mariano's _pais_ (native
+land). Assuming that his knowledge was adequate, we left our _meson_
+early, with the intention of breakfasting at San Pedrito, where we were
+assured that everything was lovely; we were also told that it was but
+a short distance. The road thither was through a high open country,
+planted to wheat and oats and with some _maguey_. The road was
+discouragingly long, but after at least three hours of constant riding,
+we reached precious San Pedrito, chiefly notable for the amount of
+_pulque_ drunk there. It was with the greatest difficulty that we
+succeeded in getting anything to eat; the breakfast was certainly worse
+than the supper of the preceding night. With the prevalence of _maguey_
+as a cultivated plant, the appearance of the houses and other
+buildings changed, as all of them were thatched with the broad, long,
+sharp-pointed leaves of the famous plant. Everyone in the district
+carries _tinajas_, or little sacks woven from splints of palm. Here, for
+the first time, we noticed that many of these had decorated patterns
+worked in black splints on the lighter ground. The blackness of
+these splints is given by exposure to the smoke of burning pine.
+Carrying-straps, also made of palm, are used for adjusting these
+_tinajas_ to the back.
+
+From San Pedrito the road is over a soft rock, which produces, when
+worn, a white glaring trail. The country through which we passed was
+fertile. Everywhere were fields of grain, wheat, oats, and, as we were
+descending into the lower land, corn. The little watch-houses for
+guarding the newly-sown fields are a striking feature of the landscape.
+In the higher districts they were small, conical or dome-shaped
+structures, made of the leaves of the _maguey_, and hardly large enough
+for a man to lie down in. Lower down, these were replaced by little
+rectangular huts, only a few feet across, with thatched roofs, the whole
+construction being raised on poles ten or twelve feet above the ground.
+It was scarcely more than noonday when we reached Nochixtlan, where
+the _jefe_ of the district lives. Telling him that we desired to visit
+Yodocono and Tilantongo, he wrote orders for us, and charged some
+indians of Tidaa to show us the road, so far as they were going. The
+country through which we passed was a continuation of that preceding
+Nochixtlan. The road was nearly level, with but slight ups and downs,
+until a little before we reached our destination, when we had an abrupt
+up-turn to Yodocono, a pretty town on the border of a little lake, which
+has but recently appeared, and which covers an area which a few years
+ago was occupied by cultivated fields. Our letter from the _jefe_
+introduced us to Don Macario Espinola, a _mestizo_, owner of the chief
+store in the village, who showed us gracious hospitality. We were guests
+of honor. The parlor was surrendered to our use; the chairs were placed
+in such a way that, when supplied with mattress, sheets, and blankets,
+they made capital beds. Our meals were good. Don Macario, on hearing
+the purpose of our visit, placed himself entirely at our disposition.
+Unfortunately, he gained the idea that the people whom we wanted for
+measurement and photography were old folk, and the most astonishing
+collection of aged men and women was summoned from every part of the
+village and surrounding neighborhood, and all had to be measured,
+although the measurements were afterwards discarded.
+
+[Illustration: YODOCONO]
+
+Leaving Yodocono at ten the following morning, we rode to Tilantongo.
+Though assured that the road was over a district as level as a floor,
+we found a good deal of up-hill riding. Tilantongo itself, with 2,266
+inhabitants, is located upon the further slope of a hill, and but few
+houses were in sight until we were actually in the town. The public
+buildings surrounded a small open space, in the centre of which is a
+stone sun-dial. One side of this little _plaza_ is occupied by the
+schoolhouse; the town-house and jail occupy the rear. The town is built
+upon a horseshoe-shaped, sloping ridge, and the church is at the edge
+of the town, at one of the very ends of the horseshoe. Riding to the
+town-house, we presented our documents to the _presidente_, and ordered
+dinner for ourselves and food for the horses. We had letters to the
+priest, but he was not in town. The schoolhouse was placed at our
+disposal, and we moved two long benches close to each other, side by
+side; rush mats were brought, and these we laid upon the benches, and
+upon the teacher's table, for beds. Mr. Lang and Don Anselmo took the
+table, Manuel and I the benches, and Mariano had the floor. The cold was
+so intense that none of us slept much. We were astonished, in the middle
+of the night, and at intervals in the early morning, say at two or four
+o'clock, to hear snatches of songs. At first, we imagined it might be
+some religious festival, but on inquiring, we found that it was nothing
+but bands of drunken indians making night hideous.
+
+We waited some time in the morning before beginning work, hoping that
+the _cura_ might come and assist us with his influence. Finally,
+wearying of delay, we explained to the _presidente_ the work we planned
+to do. We told him we must have subjects for measurement, photographing
+and modeling. He showed no great enthusiasm in the matter. One and
+another came to be measured, if they chose, but a number entirely
+refused. It was plain that something must be done. Quitting my work, I
+sent orders for the _presidente_ to appear, and, after an intolerable
+delay, he presented himself. I told him that we were losing time; that
+subjects were not presenting themselves; that some of those who did
+present themselves refused to be measured; that I wished a _mozo_ at
+once to carry a report from me to the _jefe_ that my wishes were not
+regarded by the authorities, and that his orders had no influence; that
+the _mozo_ must be ready at once, as there was no time to lose, and we
+should shortly leave his town without accomplishing our work. The effect
+was instantaneous. The official air of arrogance disappeared; he replied
+quiet humbly that subjects should be at once supplied, as rapidly as
+they could be brought in. I replied, "Here are two persons now who have
+refused; why wait while others shall be brought?" The fiat went forth,
+the two obdurate and not good-humored victims were marched up. As I
+measured them, they whispered to me that the _presidente_ himself
+had not been measured, and begged that he be ordered to undergo the
+operation. The request was reasonable, and when they were through, they
+waited to see what would happen. Great was their delight when, turning
+to the chief man of the town, I said, "It is best for you to be measured
+next. It will set a good example to the rest," and without a word,
+although I knew that he had stated that he would not be measured, he
+stepped under the rod. From then on there was no lack of material. Our
+subjects were measured, photographed and modeled as rapidly as we could
+do the work. At noon the priest had come. As he passed where we were
+working, he gave us an extremely distant greeting and rode on up to the
+_curato_. From his castle he sent immediate complaint because our horses
+had been put into his stable without his permission. I went to the good
+man's house and found him hearing confessions. Leaving with him the
+letters from the archbishop and the _jefe_, I returned to my work,
+leaving word that the horses would have to stay where they were, as
+there was no other suitable place for their keeping. After a hard day's
+work, the night started very cold, and we hurried to bed early. All were
+sleeping, but myself, when a rap came at the door. It was a message from
+the _cura_, begging us to come to the _curato_, where we would be more
+comfortable. Sending back a word of thanks, I stated that we would be
+there for the following night.
+
+[Illustration: MIXTEC HOUSES; TILANTONGO]
+
+The _cura_ had been away from home for several days. The result was
+that, on his return, his parishioners turned out in force to greet him,
+and hardly was he housed, when a procession bearing gifts marched to the
+_curato_. In front went one bearing flowers. Those who followed carried
+some kind of food,--great pieces of meat, fowls, eggs, corn, chilis,
+and other supplies. The following morning we were awakened by a great
+explosion of fire-crackers and rockets, and by pealing bells, announcing
+the early mass. After his religious duties were performed, the _padre_
+came down to the _plaza_ to watch our work and use his influence in our
+behalf. When it was dinner-time, he invited us to go with him to that
+meal. We had thought that the donation party we had witnessed was a
+generous one; after that dinner, we had no doubt of the matter. Hardly
+had we disposed of the many good things on the table when the _padre_
+took us to a large room, the parish schoolhouse, and showed us the
+arrangements he had made for our comfort. Four beds, descending in grade
+of comfort from the one for myself to the one for Manuel, were shown us.
+Never was a party happier to move from one set of quarters to another.
+
+Called away the next morning by his religious duties, the priest left
+us in charge of house and household. The work went merrily on in the
+_plaza_. We quickly found, however, that the town was getting into a
+condition of intoxication, and long before noon every person in
+the place was drunk. At noon we were waited upon by a committee,
+representing the town, who informed us that they appreciated the lofty
+honor which was conferred on the place by our presence, and stated that,
+realizing that we had brought with us letters from the President of the
+Republic and from the Archbishop of the diocese, they desired not to be
+lacking in the respect due to such distinguished visitors. Accordingly,
+they said, they had arranged for the brass band to discourse sweet music
+for us, while we ate our dinner. No sooner was the statement made, than
+preparations were begun. The band stood around us in a semi-circle,
+chiefly notable for its unsteadiness on its legs, and regaled us with a
+series of most doleful pieces. When word came that dinner was ready
+at the _curato_, the band accompanied us to our stopping-place. The
+bandmaster announced his intention of personally serving us at the
+table. At the same time orders were given that the musicians, standing
+without, should continue to play pieces throughout the repast.
+
+[Illustration:]
+
+[Illustration:]
+
+The last day of our stay at Tilantongo, the _padre_ stated that it must
+be interesting to see the way in which a parish priest, returning from a
+visit to a neighboring town, is received by his parish. Accordingly, he
+planned that a picture should be taken of himself on horseback, with all
+the people gathered around welcoming him. Telling us that he would
+be ready when we should have made our own preparations for this
+photographic effort, he waited for our summons. We quickly found,
+however, that the proposition, although hailed at first with joy, did
+not create great enthusiasm. We recommended to the people that they
+should get ready; told the musicians that the band should be prepared,
+and that soon we should send for the _padre_ to be welcomed. When we
+finally succeeded in getting the matter under way, and were seriously
+thinking of summoning the reverend gentleman, it was reported that
+an old woman had been found dead in her lonely hut that morning, and
+arrangements were at once started for her funeral. In vain we suggested
+that they should wait until the picture had been made. Musicians and
+parishioners alike disappeared, going down to the house where the dead
+body lay. The afternoon was passing. It would soon be quite too dark for
+a picture. Meantime, the _cura_, having become anxious in the matter,
+hastened from his house on foot, to ask why he had not been sent for. On
+our explaining that a funeral was in progress, he was greatly outraged.
+We pointed out the house in front of which the funeral procession was
+now forming. He stood watching, as the line of mourners approached. The
+person who had died was an aged woman named Hilaria. The body was borne
+upon a stretcher, as coffins are not much used among these people. The
+procession came winding up the high-road, where we stood. The band in
+front was playing mournfully; next came the bearers, two of whom, at
+least, were sadly drunk. The corpse was clad in the daily garments of
+the woman, and the body sagged down through gaps in the stretcher; a
+motley crowd of mourners, chiefly women, some with babies in their arms,
+followed. One man, walking with the band in front, carried a book in his
+hand and seemed to read the service, as they slowly passed along. When
+the procession had come near us and was about to pass, the _padre_
+stopped it; expressing his dissatisfaction at the failure to arrange for
+the photograph which he had ordered, he told the bearers to take the
+corpse out behind the house and leave it there. They did so, returned,
+and were arranged in a group with the _padre_ in their midst, and
+photographed, after which the body was picked up again, the procession
+was reformed, and proceeded as if nothing had happened.
+
+The following morning at six o'clock we were again upon the road. We
+first descended into the valley, passing the miserable hut from whence
+the dead woman had been borne. In all the yards we noticed peach-trees
+loaded with their pink blossoms. From the deep and narrow valley, we
+began to climb steadily upward. We passed along the side of a gorge,
+the bed of which had all the appearance of a giant stairway. Higher and
+higher we mounted, leaving San Juan Diusi on our right. Great masses of
+gray clouds hung upon the summits of the highest mountain, their lower
+line coming very nearly to our level. The wind beginning to blow, the
+gray mass soon was whirled and spread down like a great veil around us.
+We were indeed glad when we began to descend and have a little shelter
+behind us, against the wind, and dry skies instead of damp clouds above
+us. Making a sudden descent, we found ourselves in a cleared district,
+where the only trees left on the high summits were palms, which bore
+little round dates with round seeds; these were quite sweet and good.
+Small ranches were scattered, here and there, along the road. After
+another descent and ascent, we found ourselves in an extensive forest of
+great gnarled oaks, thickly covered with tufts of air-plants and with
+orchids. Many of the latter were in full bloom, forming masses of
+brilliant color. In making the descent from here, we found the slope
+composed of slippery limestone, with sharp, rain-channeled surfaces,
+where our horses with great difficulty kept their footing. Soon after we
+were down, we reached San Bartolo.
+
+This purely Mixtec town was a delightful spot. It is large, and strung
+along two or three long straight streets.
+
+[Illustration: THE PEOPLE RECEIVING THEIR PADRE; TILANTONGO]
+
+The houses were in yards completely filled with fruit
+trees--_chirimoyas, limas, granadas de China, ahuacates_ and oranges.
+Garden-beds of spinach, lettuce, and onions were frequent. The houses
+were of poles set upright, with thick thatchings of palms. Bee-hives in
+quantity were seen at almost every house. At Tilantongo we had seen but
+few women in native dress. Here almost every woman was clad in native
+garments, many of which were beautifully decorated. The men wore
+brilliant sashes, woven in the town. When we reached the town-house we
+found the doorway decorated with flowers,--stars and rosettes made of
+palm. We were well received, and a capital dinner was soon served, after
+which we were escorted around the town by the authorities, who arranged
+for photographing everything that seemed to us of interest. But, at
+three o'clock, we left this pretty spot. Again, we climbed much of the
+way over limestone roads. Santo Domingo, past which we journeyed, is a
+mean little town, with houses much like those of Tilantongo, but of a
+gray color instead of reddish-brown. From here we plunged downward, and
+when we ascended again, followed along the side of a rock-walled canon
+with pretty cascades and magnificent masses of fallen rock. The last
+part of our journey was made by moonlight, along a brook-side over
+a road which seemed quite endless. With some trouble, we found the
+dilapidated old church and the municipal house; we took possession of
+the school, and after a miserable supper, thoroughly tired, lay down to
+rest upon the benches.
+
+The town--Magdalena de los Comales--is so named from the _comales_, or
+earthenware griddles, made there. Besides this characteristic product,
+the town makes a good deal of unglazed but polished red pottery. The
+forms are chiefly candle-sticks, censers and toys. Much weaving of palm
+is here done, and the hats of the place are rather famous. Famous,
+too, are the _mantas_, or women's dresses, of black wool, made in long
+rectangular pieces. The common grade sells for $6.00, and in using it,
+it is, like indian dresses generally, simply wrapped about the figure
+and held in place by a sash or belt.
+
+Nowhere in our journey in southern Mexico had we met with the kind of
+scenery which we encountered between Magdalena and Tlaxiaco; its whole
+character was like that of New Mexico. Directly behind the town was
+a fine cart-road, worn in red sand pumice; before the town rose a
+magnificent cliff, which had been a landmark in our journey of the day
+before. The road running up the mountain, over gray and red pumice
+strata, was deeply worn, just like the road back of Cochiti, New Mexico.
+Here, too, were the same noble pines for forest. It was a full hour's
+climb to the summit, where we found a pretty brook tumbling over ledge
+after ledge into deep round basins of purest water. A long and rather
+gentle slope downward led to a valley filled with neat farm-houses and
+cleared patches. Our last ascent brought us to a mass of rounded hills,
+composed of brilliant clays--yellow, brown, pink, red and white. From
+among these hillocks Tlaxiaco, a magnificent picture, burst into view.
+It is compactly built; the flat-topped houses are white or blue-tinted;
+trees are sprinkled through the town; the old convent, with the two
+towers of its church, dominates the whole place; a pretty stream flows
+along its border; and a magnificent range of encircling mountains hems
+it in on all sides. The descent was rapid, and we reached Tlaxiaco with
+the morning but half gone.
+
+[Illustration: MIXTEC HOUSES WITH BEEHIVES; SAN BARTOLO]
+
+The _jefes_ of the districts of Mexico are frequently men of ability and
+force. Rarely, however, have we encountered one so prompt and energetic
+as Javier Cordova, then _jefe_ of the district of Tlaxiaco. When he took
+possession of this district, not long before, deeds of robbery along
+the high-road were common. In many portions of the district, acts of
+violence were quite the rule. Perhaps the largest agricultural district
+in the Republic, it possessed few of the conveniences of modern life.
+Under Cordova's administration, vast improvements have been made. The
+roads are secure, deeds of violence are rare, the advantages of the
+district are being rapidly developed, telephone and telegraph have been
+introduced, and a railroad is talked of. Although we had no letter
+from the governor addressed to Senor Cordova, when we showed him the
+communications for other _jefes_, we were received with the greatest
+courtesy and everything was done to facilitate our work. We told him
+that we planned to visit the Triquis at Chicahuastla. He at once wrote
+letters to the town authorities and to Don Guillermo Murcio, living at
+that village. The plaster for our bust-making had not yet been received,
+but Senor Cordova promised, in case it came, to forward it after us
+promptly, and, in case it did not come, to send twenty miles into the
+mountains for the raw plaster, which he would have prepared and sent on
+to Chicahuastla. It was late in the afternoon, before we started for
+Cuquila, where we planned to pass the night. It was a mistake to make so
+late a start. For a time, the road was fairly level, but at last we went
+up a brisk ascent, reaching the summit near sunset. The road down would
+have been a bad one, even in the daytime. As it was, if we had not had a
+good moon, we could hardly have made the descent. From the depth of the
+canon we ascended to Cuquila, thoroughly tired, somewhat before seven.
+It was with the greatest difficulty that we could find anyone of whom to
+ask our way to the town-house. Our voices were sufficient to plunge any
+house into instant darkness and silence. After a long search, we found
+a man who agreed to seek the _presidente_. He and the rest of the town
+officials finally met us on the road, and, after reading our order, took
+us to the town-house. It was with difficulty that we got fodder for our
+horses. It was only after persistent and dire threats, that we secured
+food for ourselves, and firewood to make the room, in which we were to
+sleep, endurable. It was long past eleven before we were through our
+troubles and lay down on mats to sleep.
+
+Though we had warned the town officials that we should leave at seven,
+and must have breakfast before we left, when we arose, we found no steps
+whatever taken for our accommodation. Yet the town officials had been
+up long enough to be thoroughly affected by their early morning drinks.
+Feeling that patience had ceased to be a virtue, we summoned the
+authorities, and told the _presidente_ that he had paid no attention
+whatever to his _jefe's_ order; that we had had far too much difficulty
+in securing the bad accommodations we had been furnished; that their
+promise to prepare a suitable breakfast had been completely disregarded.
+We told them that our duty was to send immediate complaint to Tlaxiaco;
+that we would, however, give them one more chance. We should not stop
+for breakfast, but would proceed upon our journey hungry; if, however,
+we sent him further orders regarding our return journey, we should
+expect them obeyed to the very letter. With this we mounted.
+
+In vain the _presidente_ and officials begged us to wait, promising that
+everything should be prepared. Time was too precious, and away we rode.
+
+Soon after leaving Cuquila we struck a fifty-minute mountain, the summit
+of which we made at nine o'clock exactly. Here we sat in the shade and
+lunched on bread and pineapples, bought the day before in Tlaxiaco. From
+the summit, there was a slow and gentle descent around that ridge, and
+then a slow incline along an endless ravine, until at last we came
+out upon a crest, from which we looked down upon one of the grandest
+mountain scenes of the world. A valley of impressive size, surrounded by
+magnificent mountain masses, lay below us, and just to the right, at our
+feet, was Chicahuastla. Few people in Mexico are so little known as the
+Triquis. Orozco y Berra, usually a good authority, locates them near
+Tehuantepec, in the low country. The towns which he calls Triqui are
+Chontal; the five true Triqui towns are in the high Mixteca. The largest
+is the town which we were now approaching. The Triquis are people of
+small stature, dark-brown color, black eyes, aquiline, but low and
+rather broad nose; they are among the most conservative, suspicious and
+superstitious of Mexican indians. Most of them dress in native clothing,
+and all speak the Triqui and not the Spanish language. As a people they
+are sadly degraded, through being exceptionally addicted to drink.
+
+Don Guillermo Murcio is a character. He and his family are almost the
+only _mestizos_ in the place. He is a hale and hearty blacksmith, and
+has lived for fifteen years in this purely indian town, where he has
+gained almost unbounded influence among the simple natives. His word is
+law, and the town-government trembles before his gaze. He is impetuous
+in manner, quick-tempered, and on the slightest suggestion of disregard
+of his commands, freely threatens jail or other punishment. He received
+us cordially, and we lived at his house, where we were treated to the
+best that was available.
+
+We have already referred to the beautiful location of Chicahuastla. Its
+appearance is most picturesque. Unlike the indian towns in the Mixteca
+which we had so far visited, it has many houses of circular form with
+conical roof. It is possible that this style of construction is the
+result of African influence. At Chicahuastla we were on the very summit
+of the great water-shed, and from it, when the air is clear, one may
+look down, over a sea of lesser summits and mountain ranges, to the
+waters of the Pacific. Along the Pacific coast, in the state of
+Guerrero, are whole towns of Africans, descendants of slaves, who build
+their houses after the circular pattern, so common throughout the dark
+continent. We did not find in the Triquis any admixture of African
+blood, but it is possible the mode of house-building may have been
+influenced by negro example.
+
+Our first glimpse of the town suggested a veritable paradise. At eleven
+the sky was clear, the sun almost tropical, the whole country smiled
+under its warm beams; but at two there came a change. Fogs, so dense as
+to shut out the view of what was across the road, drifted down from the
+summit on which we had seen cloud masses forming. Deeper and deeper,
+wetter and wetter, colder and colder grew the mist. All, wrapped in
+their thickest blankets, were shivering, crouched upon the ground,
+trying in vain to keep themselves warm. At first we thought this might
+be a rare occasion, but were assured that it is an every-day occurrence,
+and from our own experience of four or five days, we can easily believe
+the statement to be true. How any people can live in such a spot,
+suffering keenly twenty hours in the day, simply for the four hours of
+clear sunshine and warmth is inexplicable; and the nights were torments!
+Don Guillermo's house is well built of logs and plaster, but no house
+could keep out that bitter cold night air which chilled us, as we lay in
+bed, until we could hardly move.
+
+[Illustration: DON GUILLERMO AND HIS FAMILY; CHICAHUASTLA]
+
+[Illustration: GROUP OF TRIQUIS; CHICAHUASTLA]
+
+We have already stated that the people of Chicahuastla are conservative
+and superstitious. Our operations of measuring, photographing and
+bust-making filled the town with alarm and concern. It was hard enough
+to get our male subjects; the women were yet more difficult. At first
+we failed to secure any, but after we had several times told the town
+officials that twenty-five women must be forthcoming for measurement,
+and Don Guillermo had stormed and threatened, the town-government began
+to plan a mode of carrying out our wishes. Close by Don Guillermo's
+house was the miserable little village _plaza_, where the women of the
+town assembled with corn-cakes and other articles for trade. There, they
+met the travelling peddlers coming from Tlaxiaco, from Cuquila and the
+coast, and drove their bargains, mostly a matter of trade, not purchase,
+with them. Waiting at the place where we were working, until one or two
+women were to be seen in the _plaza_, the town officials separated,
+going in two directions. In a few minutes an anxious watcher, from our
+point of view, might have seen a gradually contracting circle of men
+surrounding the _plaza_. Usually at the same time that this circle was
+evident to the watcher, it became also evident to the women. With cries
+of terror, the poor creatures would start off as fast as their legs
+would carry them, over the mountain trails, with the whole town
+government, sixteen strong, in pursuit, with yells and screams. It was
+like nothing but the chase of deer by hounds. Usually, the women, given
+strength by terror, escaped; but once out of three times, perhaps, the
+officials returned in triumph with their prisoner in their midst, who
+was at once measured and then, if need be, photographed. In course of
+time these hunts supplied the twenty-five victims desired.
+
+It might not be uninteresting to describe the events of a single
+afternoon in a Triqui town. On one occasion, having eaten dinner, we had
+scarcely begun our work when we heard a great uproar and din upon the
+road toward Santo Domingo. Looking in that direction, we saw a crowd of
+men and boys struggling toward us. As they came nearer, we saw that
+six or eight of the party were carrying some awkward and inconvenient
+burden. It was a man, sprawling face downward; two or more held his
+arms, an equal number his legs; about his waist a belt, knotted behind,
+was tied, and then through the knot was thrust a strong pole, which was
+being carried by two men, one on either side. Struggling against those
+who carried him, raising his face and snarling and gnashing at the
+crowd, the prisoner presented a fearful spectacle. It seemed that, being
+drunk, he had quarreled with his friend, whom he had nearly murdered
+with his _machete_. About the middle of the afternoon we heard a loud
+crying in the other direction, toward the church and jail, and, on
+looking, saw coming toward us a man, whose head was broken open and from
+it was streaming blood, his head and face were covered, and his white
+shirt, to the waist and even below, was soaked with the red fluid. He
+was wringing his hands and crying in a piteous manner. When he came to
+where we stood, he told his tale of woe. He was the majordomo in charge
+of the church property. He had expected that the priest would make his
+visit to the pueblo on that day, and had so announced it to the people;
+the pious parishioners looked forward, with interest, to the coming of
+the _padre_. When the day passed, however, and the priest failed to
+appear, one of the more religious felt so outraged that he had
+broken open the head of the majordomo with a club, on account of his
+disappointment. We told the poor fellow to go home and let his wife
+clean him up and change his clothing, promising that, if he died, his
+assailant should be punished. That evening there was a little moonlight
+at Chicuhuastla, the only time during our stay. As we sat eating supper,
+we heard an outcry in the direction of the church and jail. Asking Don
+Guillermo what might be the cause, he replied that there was probably
+some trouble at the jail. We insisted on going to see what might be
+happening. Don Guillermo, the plaster-worker, Mariano, Manuel and I,
+seizing whatever weapons were convenient at hand, started for the jail.
+We found an excited crowd gathered around the doorway. On a log before
+the door there sat a creature crazy-drunk. I have never seen a case more
+horrible. He screamed, yelled, gnashed his teeth, struck and snapped
+at everyone around. The whole village stood in terror. I addressed the
+policemen, who seemed quite helpless. "Why not thrust him into the jail?
+Quick! Seize him! In with him!" Encouraged by our words, they seized
+him, the door was quickly opened, and he was cast into the little room,
+which already contained more than thirty persons, the harvest of a
+single afternoon. When the door was locked, we saw for the first time
+why the policemen had been so timid. One of them came limping up to us,
+crying, and showed his leg. From its fleshy part a good mouthful of
+flesh had been cleanly bitten by the madman. The wound was bleeding
+profusely, and the poor fellow wrung his hands and cried with pain.
+
+[Illustration: VIEW AT CHICAHUASTLA]
+
+We had finished our measurements and photographs, but there had been no
+sign as yet of the plaster; concluding that Senor Cordova had forgotten
+his promise, we were prepared to leave town early the next morning.
+After dark two men came from Tlaxiaco, one of whom brought sufficient
+plaster for making two good busts. This plaster had been brought, in
+a crude state, twenty miles from the mountains to Tlaxiaco; had been
+calcined and ground there, by prisoners in the jail, and then sent
+fifteen miles to us over the mountains. We were interested in the men
+who brought it. One of them was a prisoner from the Tlaxiaco jail. He
+had been sentenced to ten days for drinking, and it was he who carried
+the plaster. The other proudly informed us that he was a policeman, and
+had come to make sure that the prisoner returned. Thoroughly delighted
+at their coming, we broke our custom and gave the men a trifle. Alas,
+the day! That very night both men, policeman and prisoner, were thrust
+into the local jail, helplessly drunk.
+
+One evening, during our stay at Chicahuastla, Don Guillermo begged me
+to go into the kitchen to examine a baby, upon whom he was thinking
+of performing a surgical operation. The creature was a boy some three
+months old, pure indian. We had heard him crying at night ever since
+we had come, but had not seen him. A tumor, or some growth, was on his
+neck, below the chin. Don Guillermo handed me the razor, in order that
+I might remove the swelling, but I refused the task. The story of the
+child is sad. It is the son of a young indian boy and girl, not married.
+That would not be a serious matter among the Triquis. For some reason,
+however, the mother did not like the child, and scarcely was it born,
+when she went with it into the forest; there in a lonely place she
+choked it, as she thought, to death, and buried it in the ground. The
+town authorities, suspecting something of her purpose, had followed her
+and were watching at the moment. No sooner had she left the spot than
+they dug up the child, found it still alive, and brought it to Don
+Guillermo, who had kept it at the town's charge.
+
+The last night of our stay at Chicahuastla, just after supper,
+a cavalcade came to the door. It was the _jefe_ of the next
+district--Juxtlahuaca--with a guard of six mounted men. Apparently a
+pleasant fellow, he was at the moment excited over a recent disturbance
+in his district. In an attempt which he had made to adjust a certain
+difficulty, he and his guard had been fired on and stones thrown
+from the height above them, by the people of the pueblo. One of his
+companions died from the effect of the attack. The officer plainly
+feared an outbreak or uprising, and was nervous and uneasy, though Don
+Guillermo assured him that in his house there was absolutely no danger.
+Finally, we quieted down and all went to bed, we with the intention of
+an early start the next morning.
+
+[Illustration: AT WORK; MEASURING]
+
+[Illustration: AT WORK; BUST MAKING]
+
+After an uneasy night, I awoke about five o'clock. Just as I was
+thinking of calling my companions, I felt a faint trembling, which
+rapidly increased to a heavy shaking, of the house in which we slept.
+There was a moment's pause, and then a second shaking, which began
+stronger than the other, but which lasted about the same time. It was
+the most serious earthquake shock we ever experienced in Mexico. Had the
+house been made of brick and plaster, considerable damage might have
+been done. Everyone was wide awake in an instant. The whole town was in
+excitement. The church-bell was rung and the people flocked out into the
+street. The shock passed at exactly 5:20, and, in other towns, notably
+in Oaxaca, it did considerable damage.
+
+Two days before, we had sent word to the authorities at Cuquila, that we
+should breakfast with them on our way back to Tlaxiaco, and ordered them
+to be ready for our coming. This was the opportunity which had been
+promised them for redeeming themselves and avoiding complaint to their
+_jefe_. Arriving at the town at 9:40, we were met at the roadside by
+some of the officials, who led us at once to the town-house. Here the
+whole town government was gathered to greet us; politely each one,
+stepping forward, removed his hat and kissed my hand; they then invited
+us to sit down at the table and breakfast,--whereupon eggs, chicken,
+_tortillas_ and _frijoles_--the best the town could supply--were set
+before us. The whole government sat by, looking on as we ate.
+
+Immediately after breakfast, in accordance with our order previously
+sent, we were taken to see a potter at work. Cuquila is famous for two
+lines of manufacture, pottery and woolen garments. The pottery here made
+is skillfully shaped into wonderfully large vessels of different forms.
+The product goes throughout this whole district, and even down to the
+Pacific coast, a hundred miles distant. Along the roads it is a common
+thing to meet parties of three or four men carrying great loads of
+water-jars, large bowls, etc., for sale or trade. While we were
+inspecting the potter's work, a slight shock of earthquake, almost too
+gentle to be noticed, passed through the place.
+
+At Cuquila, we found that we should not meet Senor Cordova at Tlaxiaco.
+He had passed through the town the night before, on his way to
+Juxtlahuaca, with a band of soldiers to assist his neighboring _jefe_ in
+maintaining order.
+
+Leaving our Cuquila reprobates in friendly and gentle mood, we started
+for Tlaxiaco, where we arrived at half-past two. Something after four
+o'clock, we heard a violent ringing of the church-bell and saw the
+people flocking out onto the streets; looking up at the church-tower,
+although we did not feel the shock, we saw that the whole church was
+being violently shaken, and that the ringing bells, which we had heard,
+were not moved by human hands. This third shock of the day was more
+strongly felt in other districts, than with us. In the City of Mexico,
+three hundred miles away, it was the most severe of the day.
+
+The whole town was in commotion; people threw themselves upon their
+knees in the streets and prayed to the Virgin for protection. Later
+in the day, we saw a priest and a saint's figure passing through the
+streets, and as they passed the people paid reverence. Surely the little
+procession, illegal though it was, must have been successful, for there
+were no further shocks. We found here a most interesting superstition,
+which we had not met before, but which we heard several times later, in
+other districts. We were assured that the earthquake was but one of many
+signs that the world was coming to an end. We discovered that thousands
+of the people expected the ending of the world in 1900, and when we
+asked why, were reminded that this was the last year of the century.
+This is certainly a survival of ancient superstition. The old Mexicans
+did not count their years by hundreds or centuries, as we do, but by
+cycles of 52 years each. It was believed that the world would come to an
+end at the close of a cycle, and important ceremonies were conducted
+to avert such a catastrophe. It is clear that the old idea, of the
+destruction of the world at the close of a cycle, has been transferred
+to the new mode of reckoning time.
+
+[Illustration: VIEW AT CHICAHUASTLA]
+
+From Tlaxiaco to Teposcolula, there was a cart-road, though it was
+possible that no _carreta_ ever passed over it. It presented little good
+scenery. We passed the pueblos of San Martin Jilmeca, San Felipe, and
+San Miguel. Just before reaching the first of these towns, the road
+passes over a coarse rock mass, which weathers into spheroidal shells.
+At Jilmeca and some other points along the day's route the rock over
+which we passed was a white tufaceous material loaded with streaks of
+black flint. Sometimes this black flint passes into chert and chalcedony
+of blue and purple tints. Here and there, along the mountain sides,
+we caught glimpses of rock exposures, which looked snow-white in the
+distance. Between Jilmeca and San Felipe there was a pretty brook, with
+fine cypresses along the banks, and a suspension bridge of great logs.
+Having passed through San Felipe and San Miguel, a pleasant road,
+through a gorge, brought us to the valley in which Teposcolula lies. The
+great convent church, historically interesting, is striking in size and
+architecture. The priest, an excellent man, is a pure-blooded Mixtec
+indian, talking the language as his mother tongue. With great pride
+he showed us about the building, which was once a grand Dominican
+monastery. The old carved wooden cupboard for gold and silver articles,
+used in the church service, is fine work. The gold and silver articles
+for which it was built have long since disappeared. In the _patio_ are
+many old paintings, most of which are badly damaged, and some of which
+have been repaired with pieces cut from other pictures, not at all like
+the missing piece. Among these pictures is a series of scenes from the
+life of Santo Domingo. Of the figures in the church, two are fairly
+good; one, which is famous, represents Our Lady of the Rosary. In a
+little chapel are buried the remains of the old friars; here also is a
+beautiful old carved confessional. In front of the old church is a great
+court surrounded by a stone wall, which is surmounted here and there
+with little, pointed, square pillars. To the right of the church is a
+mass of masonry, in reddish-brown freestone, consisting of a series of
+arches, now more or less in ruins. When the convent was at the height
+of its splendor, the crowd of worshippers was too large for the church
+itself, and these beautiful arches were erected to receive the overflow.
+In the church itself, the plaster in the domes of the towers and the
+coloring on the walls and domes had chipped and fallen, on account of
+the earthquake, the day before. In the ruins of the upper rooms of the
+convent proper, stone and mortar, dislodged from the decaying walls by
+the same shocks, lay in little heaps on the floor.
+
+The _cura_ had ten churches in his charge. He says there are 2,000
+people in Teposcolula, few of whom are indians. In his ten churches,
+he has 12,000 parishioners. He seemed a devout man, and emphasized the
+importance of his preaching to his congregation in their native tongue
+and his. So convinced is he that the native idiom of the people is the
+shortest road to their heart and understanding, that he has prepared a
+catechism and Christian doctrine in the modern Mixtec, which has been
+printed. The town itself is desolate; the _plaza_ is much too large,
+and dwarfs the buildings which surround it, and signs of desolation
+and decay mark everything. With the fondness which Mexicans show for
+high-sounding and pious inscriptions, the municipality has painted,
+upon the side of the town-house, in full sight for a long distance, the
+words, "Nations to be great and free must be educated." From here to
+Nochixtlan there was nothing of special interest. For some four leagues
+the road was through a gorge; from this valley we mounted to the height,
+just before reaching the town of Tiltepec, from which we caught an
+extensive view down over the great valley in which Nochixtlan and this
+town lie. From Tiltepec we had a rather tiresome, hot, and painful ride,
+passing San Juan Tillo and Santiago Tillo. By half past one we were
+again in the city of Nochixtlan.
+
+[Illustration: TRIQUI CHILDREN; CHICAHUASTLA]
+
+[Illustration: MIXTEC POTTER; CUQUILA]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII
+
+THE MIXES REVISITED
+
+(1899)
+
+
+After resting at Oaxaca, from our trip into the high Mixteca, we made
+preparations for our new journey, leaving at three o'clock in the
+afternoon for the land of the Zapotecs and Mixes. Our late start
+compelled stopping at Tule for the night. In the morning we went on to
+Tlacolula, where we nooned, in order to see the _jefe_ in regard to our
+work. He is a competent man, showed great interest in our plan, and gave
+valuable advice, in addition to the orders to his officials. He warned
+us that we might meet some difficulty at Milta, where we were planning
+to make our study of the Zapotecs, on account of the _fiesta_ then in
+progress. He told us to notify him at once in case matters did not go
+well there.
+
+The _fiesta_ at Milta should have been a three days' affair. This year,
+however, it began on Sunday with the result that it filled four days.
+Reaching there in the afternoon of Monday, we found the whole town in
+great excitement and dissipation. The _plaza_ had been enclosed with a
+fencing of poles, and _toros_ were the amusement of the afternoon. The
+country sports with bulls are different from the regular bull-fights of
+the cities. Any one takes part who pleases, and while there is little of
+trained skill, there is often much of fun, frolic, and daring. The bull
+is led into the ring from outside by a lasso. It is then lassoed from
+behind and dragged up to a post or tree, to which it is firmly tied to
+prevent its moving. A rope is then tightly cinched about its middle and
+a man mounts upon the back of the beast, fixing his feet firmly in the
+rope below, between it and the animal, and winding his hands into it
+above. The ropes which hold the bull are then withdrawn so as to set
+it loose. Dozens of men and big boys, with jackets and _serapes_, then
+torment the beast, which, plunging and dashing at them, scatters them in
+every direction. Sometimes the angry animal attempts to break through
+the fence, causing excitement and consternation among the crowds who
+have been hanging to it and looking over. When, as sometimes happens, he
+does break through, there is great scattering before him, and closing
+in behind him, until he is again captured. The man riding on the bull's
+back clings as long as he can, in spite of the plunging and other
+frantic efforts of the animal to unseat him; comparatively few stay long
+in their uncomfortable position, and when they are thrown, much agility
+is required to escape from the furious animal.
+
+[Illustration: IN TLACOLULA]
+
+[Illustration: TYPICAL ZAPOTEC HOUSE; TLACOLULA]
+
+As we rode into town these sports were in full blast; everyone, save the
+bull-fighters, was drunk. Now and then a tube of iron filled with powder
+was exploded. A band in front of the municipal house was supplying
+music. A little group of men with _pitos_ and _tambours_ strolled from
+place to place, playing. Much selling was in progress in the booths, the
+chief articles offered being intoxicating drinks. A cluster of drunken
+vocalists, sitting flat upon the ground, but almost unable to hold
+themselves upright, were singing horribly to untuned guitars. In front
+of the town-house a bench had been dragged out by the authorities for
+the benefit of the _cura_, who, seated thereon, was watching the sports
+with maudlin gravity. The _presidente_ and other officials were standing
+by the _padre_, and all were drinking at frequent intervals. Thinking
+the moment opportune, I approached the party and handed them my
+documents; but both _presidente_ and priest were far too drunk to
+realize my needs. Surveying the drunken town, I felt that it was
+necessary to act promptly and firmly if we were to accomplish anything
+before the _fiesta_ ended. The only member of the government who was not
+extremely drunk that afternoon was the _sindico_. Calling him to me, I
+addressed him, scorning both priest and _presidente_. I refused to drink
+with them, saying that they were already too drunk to know their duties,
+and that both should be ashamed of their condition. At this time the
+_cura_ asked me if I were a clergyman. On my replying no, he remarked
+that I looked like one. I told him yes, that I was frequently mistaken
+for one; that a priest in the Mixteca had even thought that I was a
+bishop. He then drunkenly inquired whether I were married, and on my
+replying no, made the astonishing observation that then, it was certain
+that I could not be a priest,--that every priest had one wife, bishops
+two, and archbishops three. This drunken priest had just been making
+certain observations to the _presidente_ calculated to interfere with my
+work, and I felt that I now had my opportunity. So, turning upon him, I
+gravely reproved him for his remark. I told him that, in his language
+and his drunkenness, he was setting a bad example to his parish; that he
+should go at once to the _curato_, and not venture forth during the time
+that we remained in the town. Half-sobered by my order, he arose without
+a word, went to his house, and did not again appear for four days.
+Having gotten him out of the way, I turned to the drunken officials and
+told them that, early the next morning, I should begin my work, and
+that they must make the needful preparations; that I wished to measure,
+photograph, and make busts of the population. I told them that at
+present they were too drunk to aid me, but that the following morning
+things must be different; that enough at least to attend to my orders
+must be sober. After supper, attracted by the noise and hubbub, we set
+out to see the _plaza_. Torches were flaring in every direction, and
+considerable business was being done at all the booths. Crowds of
+drunken people were squatting on the ground in all directions; at the
+town-house the band of music was playing the _jarabe_, and 40 or 50
+persons were dancing this lively dance. Old and young, men and women,
+boys and girls, all were taking part; no one paid attention to any other
+person, but each seemed to be trying to prove himself the most agile of
+the party. All were drunk, some astonishingly so. Occasionally a
+dancer would bump against such an one, who would fall head over heels.
+Immediately picking himself up, he would go at it again, with even
+greater vigor; sometimes one fell, of himself, in a helpless heap,
+and lay where he fell, until kicked out of the way or until the music
+stopped. All around was pandemonium; yelling, singing, cursing, fighting
+were in progress; the jail was crowded, but every now and then a new
+case was dragged up; for an instant the door was opened, and against the
+crowd, pushing from within, the new prisoner would be crowded into the
+cell. At one time in the evening a cry arose that a murder was being
+committed in the jail. The door was opened, the policemen crowded in,
+and the two men who had clinched and were battling were torn apart. One
+was dragged outside and thrown into the woman's jail, and for a time the
+air was blue with the most insulting cries. Convinced that no work
+could be done in the afternoons, we labored with the greatest possible
+diligence each morning. The first morning, going to the town-house,
+we ordered subjects to be brought. The _presidente_ was drunk; the
+_sindico_ also; still, some of the town officials were found in
+a condition able to do our bidding. Having measured a few of the
+officials, we proposed to take such prisoners as still remained in the
+jail, from the batch of the preceding day. There were eighteen of these,
+and with them we made a good beginning. Among the prisoners we found our
+first subject for modelling. Oiling him, we began to make the moulds.
+The back-piece had been applied; the second piece, covering the lower
+part of the face and upper chest, was hardening, and we were busily
+engaged in putting on the final application over the upper part of the
+face. At this moment the _presidente_ staggered into the jail. When
+his eyes fell upon our subject, he stopped aghast; for a moment he was
+unable to speak; then he groaned out the words, "O horrible spectacle!
+To think of seeing a son of this town in such a position!" As I was
+beginning to laugh and ridicule him, the old mother of the young man
+came bursting into the jail, weeping and trembling, to see what fate had
+overtaken her son. Wringing her hands, the tears rolled down her face,
+and her voice was choked with sobs, as she asked pitifully whether he
+must die; she told me that he was her only support, and that, without
+him, she was absolutely alone. Taking the old woman outside, while the
+mask should be completed, I chatted with her, and as soon as the pieces
+of the mould were removed, delivered her precious son, unharmed, into
+her hands.
+
+Just as we were ready for a new subject, a young fellow, better dressed
+than most, passed by. We called him to come in and be measured, but with
+a somewhat insolent manner, he walked by, paying no attention to our
+words. Sending the policemen for him, they soon returned with the
+report, "_No quiere_" (He does not care to come). To allow a first
+refusal was not to be thought of, so we ordered his return. Again the
+policemen came back with no result. Thereupon I declared that no more
+work should be done until he came; that time would be lost thereby, and
+the _jefe's_ order would be disregarded, but that it was not our fault.
+Upon this the _presidente_ informed us that the order was not explicit;
+it did not state that people must be measured; he would consult the
+civil code to see whether anyone but criminals must be measured. "Very
+good," said I, "do as you like; but unless that young man is brought in
+we shall send complaint to the _jefe_; send for a messenger at once to
+carry my report." At this stage, the policemen returned, telling me that
+the young man wanted did not belong to this town; that he could not be
+found, and probably had gone home. We told them that we did not believe
+them, but that we would proceed with our work; however, I said, that,
+if he really were a stranger but appeared again, I should order his
+immediate arrest and jailing. To this they all agreed; and we continued
+work until the town was again too drunk for anything to be done.
+
+[Illustration: ORGANO CACTUS; TLACOLULA]
+
+[Illustration: WHERE TREE FERNS GROW]
+
+About the middle of the afternoon, when the bull-fighting was at its
+height, the young man wanted appeared in the ring as the chief fighter
+and attraction of the day. Stepping at once to the policemen I told
+them that he must be brought immediately to the town-house,--that
+the bull-fight must cease while our matters were arranged. With much
+grumbling and complaint they obeyed. The young man dismounted from his
+bull and was brought by the policeman before us. Here we asked the
+_sindico_ the name and residence of the young man; and, as we supposed,
+he belonged in Mitla. Asking him why he had not come to be measured
+when he was told to do so, he replied that we had already measured him.
+Telling him that lying would not save him, I commanded him to appear the
+following morning for measurement,--that otherwise he would be sent a
+prisoner to Oaxaca. In the morning he did not appear until officials
+were sent to bring him. After he had gone through the ordeal of
+measurement he swore eternal friendship to me, and at no time afterward
+was I able to pass him, on the street or in the square, without his
+begging me to drink _tepache_ with him.
+
+Mitla is famous for its weaving; fine _mantas_ of wool are made there
+in two chief styles--one a long strip of black or blue-black cloth, the
+other a rich red, sometimes banded or striped with black. These Mitla
+_mantas_ are widely sold to Zapotecs, in all the district around, and
+form the characteristic women's dress. The Zapotecs of this district
+wear something on their feet that more nearly resembles true shoes than
+the footgear of any other Indians in southern Mexico. The sandal of the
+man has a projecting heel-flap which is bound around the ankles by means
+of thongs, and forms a good protection to the hind part of the foot. The
+women have not only such a flap, even higher than that used by the men,
+but also a broad strip of leather over the forward part of the foot,
+leaving the toes peeping out in front; between the heel flap and the toe
+covering, the foot is quite as well enclosed, excepting for the toes, as
+in a white man's shoe.
+
+It was quite impossible, with the amount of work we had to do, and the
+difficulties under which we labored, to give the least attention to
+the ruins. We arranged, however, to make a photograph of the town
+authorities standing in the great court of one of the fine old
+buildings--a court the walls of which are covered with beautiful mosaic
+decorations, betraying taste and skill. The motley crew of half-drunk
+officials, miserably dressed, degraded, poor, in this scene of past
+magnificence, called up thoughts of the contrast between the government
+of old Mitla and the present,--of past magnificence and modern squalor.
+
+[Illustration: THE CONTRAST; PAST AND PRESENT--MITLA]
+
+Having accomplished all we wished at Mitla, we again struck eastward
+toward the land of the Mixes. Late in starting, we made no attempt to go
+further than San Lorenzo that afternoon. The old road was familiar,
+and from there on, through the following day, everything came back
+to memory. Even individual trees, projecting rock masses, and little
+streams, were precisely as we remembered them from our journey of three
+years earlier. We reached Ayutla in the evening a little before sunset.
+Riding directly to the municipal house we summoned the town government.
+We had not provided ourselves with orders from the _jefe_ of the
+district, as Villa Alta, the _jefatura_, lay far out of our course. We
+planned to use our general letter from the governor. When the officials
+assembled we presented our order and explained it; we told them what we
+needed for the night, and arrangements were at once made for supplying
+us; we then told the _presidente_ of the work we had before us, and
+informed him that, because his town was small, we should ask for only
+thirty-five men for measurement, and that these must be ready, early in
+the morning, with no trouble to us.
+
+The _presidente_ demurred; he doubted whether the people would come to
+be measured; we told him that they would not come, of course, unless he
+sent for them. When morning came, although everything had been done for
+our comfort, there was no sign of subjects. That no time might be lost,
+we took the _presidente_ and three or four other officials, who were
+waiting around the house; then, with firmness, we ordered that he should
+bring other subjects. The officials were gone for upwards of an hour,
+and when they returned, had some ten or twelve men with them. "Ah," said
+I, "you have brought these, then, for measurement?" "On the contrary,
+sir," said the _presidente_, "this is a committee of the principal men
+of the town who have come to tell you that the people do not wish to be
+measured." "Ah," said I, "so you are a committee, are you, come to tell
+me that you do not wish to be measured?" "Yes." Waiting a moment, I
+turned to the officials and asked, "And which one particularly does
+not wish to be measured of this committee?" Immediately, a most
+conservative-looking individual was pointed out. Addressing him, I said,
+"And so you do not wish to be measured?" "No sir," said he, "I will not
+be measured." "Very good," said I. "What is your name?" He told us.
+I marked it down upon my blank, and wrote out the description of his
+person. Then, seizing my measuring rod, I said to him quite sharply,
+"Well, well! Take off your hat and sandals. We must lose no time!"
+And before he really realized what we were doing, I had taken his
+measurements. Having finished with him, I turned again to the
+_presidente_. "And what other member of the committee particularly
+objects to being measured?" As I spoke, another man was indicated.
+Turning to him, I said, "Let us lose no time. Take off your hat and
+sandals while I measure you." In an instant the thing was done. The
+operation was carried through. Before I had finished with the second
+case, the others began to smile and snicker, and when I was ready for
+my third subject I simply asked, "Who next?" and they came one after
+another without complaint. Having measured all the members of the
+committee, I soberly addressed them. "Now, if there is any harm in this
+that I have done, you are all as badly off as can be. If I were you, I
+would try to get as many other people in the same position as I could;
+go out and bring in others." Before noon the work was done, and we were
+ready to go on to Juquila.
+
+We rested, however, the balance of the day, and spent a second night at
+Ayutla. The day had been given to drinking, throughout the town. It will
+be remembered that the village proper lies on a terrace, upon a slope
+above the town-house. As we sat before the house, in the afternoon
+and evening, we heard from time to time yells and cries above. Some
+policemen, who were standing up there to keep order, would then appear
+upon the edge of the slope, and, waving their hands, would loudly cry
+for help; then the policemen from the town-house would run to their
+assistance, and in a little time the party would return, dragging one
+or more victims to the jail. This operation continued from early in the
+afternoon until late at night; fully fifteen or twenty persons were
+brought down from the village to the jail during that time.
+
+We had hoped to find the valley of clouds, and the great cloud cataract,
+on the road to Juquila, but were doomed to disappointment. When we stood
+upon the summit, looking down into what before had been the sea of mist,
+the whole place was clear, and everything, to the very bottom of the
+valley, was visible. The further journey seemed more tedious than
+before, and the latter part of the road seemed truly endless. There was
+not a breath of air; the sun poured its hot rays down mercilessly. Long
+before we reached Juquila I felt, for the first time in Mexico, that I
+was suffering from fever. After seven and a half hours on the road,
+we reached the town at 1:30 in the afternoon, and went at once to the
+town-house, where we were well received, and arrangements were made
+for our comfort. When they saw that I was suffering, they brought out
+hammocks, of which I made no use. Making myself a bed of blankets upon
+the floor, I lay down in my misery and covered myself from the world, a
+blanket over my head. After some hours, I felt that we were losing
+time, and that we must, at least, make arrangements for the work of the
+following day. It was now dusk. I sent for the officials, and when they
+appeared, told them that, notwithstanding my suffering, I could not
+lose time, and that early in the morning they must bring persons for
+measurement. There was a good deal of discussion over the matter. The
+officials were dissatisfied that my order was not signed by the _jefe_
+of their district and dated from San Carlos. They suggested that we send
+a messenger to San Carlos to inquire whether the order was all right. I
+replied that four days would be consumed in going and coming; that time
+was precious, and that it was impossible for us to wait. Seeing that
+they were likely to refuse to do what I wished, I made a little speech,
+in which I told them they had better do what I asked, and that promptly.
+No one so far had recognized me as having been there before. I told them
+that they had never had better friend that I; that this was not the
+first time I had visited Juquila; that when I came before I had had
+difficulty; that my companion, presenting an order from the governor,
+had been badly received by their _presidente_, who tried to do him
+violence; that if I had reported this incident, they knew well what
+would have happened; that, however, being their good friend, I had never
+reported it. Having jogged their memory regarding the past, I suggested
+to them that a report of the previous occurrence, with their present
+disregard of orders, might be serious. I told them that they knew what I
+desired; that they might at once inform me whether it would be done or
+not; if they decided in the negative, the _secretario_ and my _mozo_
+must start at once on foot to Oaxaca, carrying my complaint to the
+governor; that, as for me, having started them upon their journey, I
+should leave early the following morning going to some town where the
+people knew what obedience to the law meant. They at once promised that
+no time should be lost, and that, the following morning, I should have
+the subjects for whom I asked, viz., thirty-five men and twenty-five
+women. Nor was it simply promises; having told them that I would begin
+early in the morning whether I were well or ill, and that I wanted no
+delay, we found our thirty-five men waiting, at seven o'clock.
+
+[Illustration: THE LAND OF THE MIXES]
+
+At Juquila the system of public crying from the _plaza_ is fully
+developed. The town lies in a valley, and most of the houses are on
+slopes surrounding the little plain or terrace upon which the _plaza_ is
+situated on which the government house is built. When aid was needed
+by the town authorities, whether _zacate_ for our horses, food for
+ourselves, objects for inspection, or what not, one of the officers,
+whose business it seemed to be, stepped out upon the _plaza_, and,
+raising his voice would cry out what was needed by the authorities.
+Whoever had the things desired, coming out before their houses, would
+cry back the amount, description and variety of the articles they could
+supply. This we found to be the constant practice.
+
+Notwithstanding the clearness of the preceding day, our day of working
+was cold, damp, and foggy. The sea of cloud and cataract of mists must
+have been in full operation. Where we were, a heavy wind was blowing
+and, before night, rain falling. We had not thought of the possibility
+of heavy storms or damaged roads at this time of the year, but, before
+night came, the people of the village expressed surprise that we should
+talk of leaving the next morning. They assured us that at Quezaltepec
+and Ixcuintepec it was surely raining heavily, and that the roads would
+be wet, slippery and impassable. Long before we went to bed, a gale was
+blowing and we felt doubts regarding further progress. In the morning
+it was still wet and chilly; all told of terrible roads and risks in
+proceeding; we delayed. Finally, we decided to press on at least to
+Ocotopec. We had tried to send the _mozos_ forward with our baggage, but
+it was plain they would not move until we did. Finally, somewhat after
+nine, we started. It was still heavy and chilly; we found the road much
+better than we feared; at some points it was slippery, but not for
+long distances. Until we were on the final descent to Ocotopec we were
+sheltered from the cold wind. To be sure, here and there, where the road
+passed little funnel openings along the crest, we felt fully the cold
+wind loaded with mist.
+
+We noticed, what on the other trip escaped my attention, the profound
+difference in vegetation between the two sides of the hill upon the
+crest of which we were travelling. The one slope, cold and damp, was
+densely forested with trees, loaded with air-plants and orchids. The
+other slope, warmer and drier, was far less heavily grown, and in large
+part, with pines. Among the plants noticed by the roadside was a species
+of pinguicula which was very common on damp clay-cuttings. Its leaves
+form a close, flat rosette upon the ground, from which a slender stalk
+rises, with a a single crimson flower. When we reached the final descent
+to the town, we caught the full force of the cold, mist-laden wind,
+which struck our faces and made us shiver. Yet it was on this very
+slope, so frequently cold and wet, that the oaks, covered with
+air-plants and blooming orchids, were at their finest. Ferns in
+astonishing variety, from the most delicate, through giant herbaceous
+forms, to magnificent tree-ferns; lycopods of several species, and
+selaginellas, in tufts, covered the slopes; and great banks of begonias,
+in fine bloom, showed themselves. Before we reached the village we were
+forced to dismount, on account of the slippery condition of the road,
+and entered town on foot.
+
+In our other journey Ocotopec made no impression on us. It is really one
+of the most picturesque and interesting of the Mixe towns. It is built
+upon a slope, which is cut and built into a series of little terraced
+gardens; clusters or groups of houses stand on the terraces. The houses
+are rectangular, built of adobe brick and heavy thatch, with a thick
+comb of thatch riding the ridge. Unlike most Mixe churches, the church
+at Ocotopec is entire, and in good condition. It is built of stone. The
+town is purely Indian, and the type is the best we had seen. Had there
+been light for photographing, we should have stopped there and done our
+work, instead of passing on to Ixcuintepec. As it was, we spent the
+night, and were well treated. Leaving early in the morning, we
+hurried to Quezaltepec for dinner, the road being better than we had
+anticipated. The town is prettily distributed upon a curved crest; the
+houses are neat, built of adobe or of poles daubed with mud. Much fruit
+is grown here, and coffee is an important crop. In almost every yard
+mats were spread out, on which coffee was drying, or being sorted by
+people squatting on the ground. Considerable cotton is woven at this
+point.
+
+Leaving at 3:40, the evening ride through the forest was magnificent.
+The flora was such as we have before described. As we rode through the
+higher forests, we constantly heard birds, notable among which were the
+_clarins_, with their fine clear notes. It was dark before we reached
+Camotlan. Nowhere had we been better treated. We were shown at once into
+a clean room, and were soon surrounded by bustle and preparation for our
+comfort. There are but 143 inhabitants, of whom six--four men and two
+women--have goitres. We had been previously informed that the whole town
+was goitrous. There were three deaf-mutes, but no idiots, in the town.
+Inquiring for books printed in the Mixe tongue, we were informed that
+the choir-master had one. On expressing my desire to see it, they sent
+to bring him. We were astonished at his appearance. The messengers who
+brought him carried him in their arms, and set him down upon the floor,
+when we saw that he had been born without legs, and with sadly deformed
+arms and hands. Yet, when once placed upon the floor, he moved about
+easily, and had a cheery face and sunny temper. He was delighted to show
+us his book and took the greatest pride in reading from it. It is truly
+remarkable that he can do this. The book was written in the dialect of
+Juquila of more than 170 years ago. The dialect of Juquila was no doubt
+then different from that of Camotlan, and during the 170 years there
+have been great changes, even in that town itself. As I watched the
+man read from his book, I noticed that he pronounced parts of words
+differently from the way in which they were spelled; how he had worked
+out for himself, unaided, the proper meaning and purport of the words
+was a mystery. I had intended to purchase the book, but found him so
+attached to it that I gave up the plan. Had he been a normal man, I
+should have insisted; but then, if he had been a normal man, he would
+not have had the book nor known how to read it.
+
+From Camotlan we rode steadily for five hours to reach Ixcuintepec.
+There were considerable stretches of slippery road to be passed. The two
+gorge rides, the bridges of vines, and the houses along the way, were
+beautiful as ever, but the magnificent mountain forests were left
+entirely behind us. The old church at Ixcuintepec is visible on the high
+crest for a considerable distance. As we made the final climb, the boys
+noticed in the trees structures one and a half feet or two feet in
+diameter, and somewhat dome-shaped. I should have taken them for wasps'
+nests, but the party insisted that they saw parrots come out of them,
+and that no doubt young parrots were in the nests. Immediately there was
+great excitement, for Manuel had all along wanted to capture a parrot to
+take home with him. The party stopped, and stones were thrown to drive
+out the birds, but with no result. Finally Mariano climbed the tree,
+creeping out along the branches almost to the nest; just at that moment
+an unusually well-aimed stone struck the nest, but instead of parrots,
+out streamed a great cloud of wasps, which flew straight towards the
+_mozo_, who lost no time in getting down from his precarious position.
+
+[Illustration: VIEW IN QUEZALTEPEC]
+
+We found Ixcuintepec almost deserted; hardly any of the town officials
+were there. Almost everyone was off, working in the coffee _fincas_.
+We quickly saw that we had made a great mistake in waiting for our
+remaining subjects until this town. Not only were men conspicuous by
+their absence, but the women were extremely hostile. They objected to
+our photographing their houses or themselves. They drove the messenger
+whom I had sent to measure a house, for the purpose of making a
+miniature reproduction, off the premises with clubs. The _mozos_, who
+had accompanied us thus far, had no intention of going farther, and the
+problem of getting carriers--which had troubled us ever since we had
+left Mitla--assumed serious proportions. It was with great difficulty
+and much bluster that we secured the food we needed and the _mozos_.
+When the _mozos_ came, three out of the four whom it was necessary
+for us to employ, were mere boys, the heartiest and best of whom was
+scarcely ten years old. In vain we declared that it was impossible for
+such little fellows to carry the burdens that needed transportation. It
+was plain that they were our only resource. Starting the three boys
+upon a short cut to San Miguel, the oldest _mozo_ and ourselves went by
+another road to Coatlan. It was fortunate for us that the school-teacher
+at this town was interested in our work. We took possession of the
+schoolhouse, showed our orders to the officials, and, after much
+difficulty, obtained our wishes. The town was almost as deserted as had
+been Ixcuintepec, but after infinite difficulty, we succeeded in getting
+sufficient subjects to complete our work.
+
+We had thought ourselves unfortunate at Ixcuintepec and Coatlan; the
+worst lay before us. We found San Miguel deserted. Our three _mozos_ who
+had been paid, and ordered to go simply to that village, and there to
+leave our things, had left before we arrived. The man who had come with
+us, we had dismissed before we realized conditions. The coffee had
+been gathered for the season; the chief man of the place was in the
+mountains; there was no town government; neither prayers, threats, nor
+bribes produced food for ourselves and our horses; two or three men
+around the place would not be hired as _mozos_. We finally were forced
+to leave our busts, plaster, photographic outfit and plates on a bench
+under an open shed, and go on alone to Santiago Guevea. It was a bitter
+disappointment, because our previous experience at San Miguel had been
+so pleasant and interesting.
+
+When we left Coatlan that morning, it had been through clouds and
+drizzling rain. When we passed through San Miguel, conditions were but
+little better. From there, we went through a gorge road, everywhere
+passing little plantations of coffee, bananas, and tobacco. Finally, we
+began our last mountain or forest climb. The wind with the rain became
+colder and more penetrating. At the summit, we found a typical norther
+raging, and at points our animals and ourselves were almost blown from
+the crest. In good weather the road is long, but through this it was
+dreadful. Few towns compare in beauty of location, and appearance from
+a distance, with Santiago Guevea. It was nearly five when we drew up in
+front of the crowded town-house. It will be remembered that this town is
+Zapotec, Coatlan being the last Mixe town. The school-teacher interested
+himself in our welfare, securing for us a real sleeping-room with cots,
+putting our horses into the corridor of the schoolhouse, and arranging
+for our meals. Chocolate and bread were at once furnished, and at eight
+o'clock a good supper was sent to our room. In the _plaza_ outside, the
+wind was blowing a hurricane and the cold cut like a knife; but the
+house in which we slept was tight and warm. In the morning, we found the
+wild weather still continuing. It had been out of the question to send
+_mozos_ to San Miguel the night before, and it seemed wicked to start
+them out in such a storm of wind, fog, rain and cold. Still, our time
+was precious, and we ordered men sent to the place where our stuff had
+been left, to fetch it; meanwhile, we decided to wait until they should
+appear. Our animals had had nothing to eat the previous day, except a
+little corn we had brought with us from Coatlan. We therefore ordered
+_zacate_ brought for them. The night before, I had inquired regarding
+the acquaintances we had made at San Miguel in our previous trip. I
+learned that the man had died less than a month before, but that the
+widow, the four boys and the little girl, having finished their work at
+the coffee _finca_ at San Miguel, were in town. Accordingly we called
+at the house. The woman immediately recognized me, and asked after Don
+Ernesto. The boys were sleeping, bedded on piles of coffee, but were
+routed from their slumber to greet us. At first, none of them remembered
+me, but the little girl did, and soon Castolo also. Their house was
+comfortable, and piles of corn, coffee, and bananas were stacked up in
+the place. They invited us to stop with them, but we were already well
+housed by the authorities. As we left, the woman went to the corner,
+and, from a pile of similar objects, took two things neatly wrapped in
+corn-husks. On opening them, we found that they were eggs, which are
+frequently wrapped in this way for storage, in all the indian towns.
+Although we had ordered food for the horses, at seven o'clock it had
+not appeared. We called at the town-house several times, but still no
+_zacate_. Our dinner came, and the afternoon passed, but still no fodder
+for the horses was produced, and the poor animals had eaten nothing,
+practically, for two whole days, although subjected to hard work and the
+pelting storm. We anxiously watched for the coming of the _mozos_ with
+our equipment. The storm, though still raging, was abating, and we could
+see well down the road. When, at half past three in the afternoon, there
+was no sign of either men or fodder, we called the town authorities to
+account. We told them that we would wait no longer in a town where our
+animals could only starve; that they must forward our boxes, plaster and
+busts promptly to Tehuantepec; that we should hold them responsible for
+loss or delay, and that all should be delivered at the office of the
+_jefe_. Paying no attention to their entreaties that we should wait a
+little longer for the fodder, which they promised, as they had so many
+times before, would come soon, we saddled our animals, and at 4:20 left
+the town. Just as we started, little Castolo appeared with two bunches
+of _zacate_ sent by his mother, as a present to Don Federico.
+
+Certainly, there must be a new and better road from Guevea to Santa
+Maria than the one we traversed in our other journey, and which again,
+following from memory, we used. It was a fearful trail, neglected and
+ruined, over slippery rock and rough, sharp-splintered stone. Still we
+pressed on rapidly, making even better time than we had been assured at
+the town that we might expect to make. Never were we more happy than in
+reaching Santa Maria, lovely in the moonlight, with its great church,
+fine municipal-house, cocoa-nut trees and thatched huts. Here was no
+sign either of the norther or the rain. The next day's journey was over
+the hot dusty road with glimpses now and then of the distant Pacific and
+Tlacotepec for destination. The following morning we pressed on toward
+Tehuantepec, through the dust and heat, reaching the city at noonday. To
+our great surprise, we found the _mozos_, with the plaster, the busts,
+and the boxes of plates, waiting for us since four o'clock in the
+morning.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII
+
+ABOUT TEHUANTEPEC (1899)
+
+
+Since our former visit to Tehuantepec, that hot and dusty city had
+suffered terrible misfortune. Through a period of several months it was
+subject to frequent shocks of earthquakes; for a time these were of
+daily occurrence, and on one occasion there were seventeen in a single
+day. The town still showed the destruction produced by these earthquake
+shocks, although for some months past there had been none. Houses,
+stores, churches, all presented great cracks and bare spots from which
+plaster had fallen. Many of the people had left the city permanently;
+those who remained were completely discouraged and unwilling to spend
+trouble and money in the repair of their houses. Tehuantepec is, of
+course, a city of considerable size; situated on a railroad, it has
+lost its importance since that thoroughfare was constructed. It was,
+formerly, the natural point through which all the produce of the
+surrounding country passed; the railroad has given similar opportunity
+to other places, to the loss of Tehuantepec. Between earthquakes, the
+damage resulting from the railroad, and the location of the military
+forces at Juchitan, not far distant, the town is declining. It is still,
+however, the _cabecera_, and the _jefe_ is a man of some force and
+vigor. Shortly after our arrival, I visited his office, delivered the
+governor's letter, and stated our purpose in visiting his city. He
+seemed interested, and at once stated that there would be no difficulty
+in carrying out my plans; that I would find plenty of women for
+measurement in Tehuantepec itself; that the 100 men had better be
+secured at San Blas, which, although independent in government, adjoins
+Tehuantepec. I suggested that it would be well to measure the women in
+the court-yard of his palace; he, however, replied, "By no means; it
+will be much better to go directly to the market, where the women are
+gathered in great numbers; a _regidor_ will accompany you to arrange the
+matter with your subjects."
+
+Although convinced that his plan was bad, we arranged to begin work the
+following morning; with instruments and _regidor_ we presented ourselves
+in the market, picking out a suitable spot and preparing for work. Then
+I told the _regidor_ to bring a subject. The market-place was crowded,
+probably two or three hundred women being there gathered. Approaching
+the nearest of them, the _regidor_ politely asked her to step up and
+be measured. We were not, however, dealing with Triquis. The women of
+Tehuantepec are certainly the heads of their houses; the men occupy
+but an inferior position. Possibly, they are really larger than their
+husbands, but, whether that be true or not, they give that impression to
+the spectator. The lady indicated lost no time in assuring the
+_regidor_ that she had no intention of being measured, and he returned
+crest-fallen to report results. He met with no sympathy. I told him he
+had been sent to bring the women, that my business was simply to measure
+them; that if he would do his duty, I would do mine. He made two other
+efforts, equally futile, and finally returning, said he thought an order
+would be necessary. I told him, if he had not already an order I did not
+know what an order was; that the _jefe_ had distinctly told me what he
+was to do; that he was not doing it. He then said he had better go to
+the palace a moment; would I kindly wait. I waited. He soon reappeared,
+and started in bravely with a new subject, but was again repulsed.
+Returning, he said that we had better go up to the palace and interview
+the _jefe_ again. I replied that I had no time to spare; that we had
+already lost two hours at the palace, waiting for the _jefe_ to appear,
+and that I did not propose to lose more time; that he knew what I
+expected, and must either do it, or I would return to my hotel. He
+helplessly remarked that we had better see the _jefe_, whereupon
+I picked up my instruments and departed to the hotel. Leaving my
+instruments at the hotel, I decided, while matters were adjusting
+themselves--for I had no thought of bothering myself further--to call
+upon the bishop. Sallying from the hotel, I met upon the street the
+_regidor_ and two other town officials, who were awaiting me. "Sir,"
+said he, "will you not measure the women?" "No," said I, "I am going to
+call upon the bishop. I have no time to waste. We went once to measure
+the women, but you had no power; your _jefe_ plainly is a man without
+authority." "No, sir," cried he, "the _jefe_ has issued a strict order
+that the women must be measured." "No matter," I replied, "I have no
+time to waste. I shall make my call." With this I entered the bishop's
+palace, and had an interesting visit with that prelate. When leaving
+the palace, I found the _regidor_ and four town officials, awaiting
+my appearance. He at once demanded whether it was not my intention to
+measure the women. He said that he had been to see the _jefe_, and that
+the _jefe_ said my wishes must be obeyed. I asked him where it was
+proposed to measure the women, and he replied that it should be wherever
+I pleased. "Very good," said I. "We will measure them in the court-yard
+of the _jefe's_ palace; have subjects brought there at once, and send a
+man to my hotel for my instruments."
+
+To the palace we went, and thither shortly four policemen brought a
+woman from the market. With bad grace, she submitted to be measured,
+after which the four policemen went again to the market, and soon
+after reappeared with a second subject. So the work went on, with four
+policemen to each woman, until our full number was finally secured and
+the work completed.
+
+Three years ago, on my return from Guatemala, I met in this city an
+English doctor named Castle, who has lived here for many years--a man
+of scientific tastes and interests, who has employed his leisure in
+studying the botany, zoology, and indians of the district. He is
+well-informed, and one of the few persons acquainted with the Juaves. I
+counted on his help in approaching that curious and little-known tribe.
+The doctor's house is full of pets; eight different kinds of parrots,
+a red and yellow macaw, a brilliant-billed, dark-plumaged toucan, an
+angora goat, a raccoon, dogs and cats, are a part of the happy family
+that prowls at large in his house. A little creature, an indian, no more
+than eight years old, has adopted the doctor for her father. She
+had come to him as a patient for a trouble by no means uncommon
+here--night-blindness; in caring for her, he gained the little
+creature's heart, and she will hardly hear of leaving him to return
+home. The doctor accompanied us on our first visit to San Blas, and told
+us many things, not only of the Juaves, but of the Zapotecs and other
+indians of the region.
+
+From the hotel, in the heart of Tehuantepec, to the town-house of San
+Blas, is a walk of only twenty minutes. Here for three days we did
+our work, returning to our hotel for meals and lodging. The work went
+easily, the men presenting little or no objection to our operations;
+measurements, busts, portraits--all were taken. On the whole, the
+Tehuantepecanos do not present a simple, pure indian type. The women
+seemed to be purer than the men. The _secretario_ at San Blas has been
+to school. He is one of the few indians of the district who has taken an
+interest in the study of his native tongue. He has already published a
+grammar of the Zapotec, as spoken in his village. He has also printed a
+little tract for lovers, in which high-sounding phrases are translated
+from the Spanish into Zapotec. He has also prepared, and holds in
+manuscript, a dictionary of the dialect containing some 4,000 words.
+
+The visit to the Juaves we considered one of the most important and
+interesting of our journey. These people are conservative, and among
+the least known of the native populations of Mexico. There are but four
+towns, with a total population of probably less than three thousand
+persons. These towns are situated at a few leagues' distance from
+Tehuantepec, near the Pacific, upon narrow tongues of land, washed by
+salt lagoons. The nearest, largest, and according to Dr. Castle, the
+most conservative of the four towns, is San Mateo del Mar. We had hoped
+that Dr. Castle might accompany us on our journey. This, however, was
+impossible, but he suggested that he would go with us part of the way.
+To avoid the great heat, we travelled by night, as there was moonlight.
+Hiring a _carretero_ at San Blas, we loaded our materials and
+instruments into the cart, and started it upon its way. At about four
+o'clock in the afternoon, we rode from Tehuantepec, taking a roundabout
+road in order to see the hill which gives name to the town. It was
+Sunday, and many women and girls had been visiting the cemetery,
+carrying bowls filled with flowers to put upon the graves of friends. We
+saw numbers of young fellows sitting by the roadside, and learned that
+they were the lovers of the young women, awaiting their return from the
+cemetery.
+
+The name Tehuantepec means the mountain of man-eaters. These man-eaters
+were not men, but tigers, or ocelots. The story runs that long ago this
+mountain was infested with wild beasts who destroyed the people of the
+neighboring villages. Fearing extermination, the people of the town
+decided to consult the Juaves, who were famous for their _naguales_, or
+witches. The oldest and most skilled _nagual_ of the tribe was employed.
+Having performed his incantations, he told them they might expect
+immediate deliverance; that he had conjured a deliverer from the sea.
+Soon there came forth from the water a gigantic turtle, who made his way
+slowly inland, until he reached the bottom of the hill, which was the
+home of the tigers. The dangerous animals were just descending from
+the mountain in a double line, but the moment they caught sight of the
+mammoth sea-monster, their bodies froze with terror and they were turned
+to stone. Terrified at the power of the creature he had conjured, the
+old _nagual_ quickly made use of his most powerful incantation, with the
+result that the turtle also was transformed into stone. The proof of the
+truth of the story we saw in the lines of stone tigers on the mountain
+side and the stone turtle at the foot of the hill, as we rode by.
+
+The doctor suggested that it would be well to take a guide with us from
+San Blas as far as Huilotepec, as there were many side-roads before
+we reached that town, and that, from there, we would need no help. We
+followed his suggestion. The road was almost level. It passed through a
+district covered with a dense growth of brush and thorny trees, except
+where the land had been plowed for planting corn. In the early evening
+we saw many birds. Flocks of parrots rose from the trees as we passed
+by; at one point Manuel shot a little eagle, which fell wounded to the
+ground. Our guide concluded to carry it on alive. All went well for some
+time, but at last, with no warning, the bird made a vicious dash, and
+with its claws tore through the trousers of the guide, making a great
+gash in his leg. The man promptly decided it was better, on the whole,
+to carry it further dead than living.
+
+The doctor turned back at sunset. We reached Huilotepec something before
+eight, and found it a large pueblo with houses built of bamboo or cane.
+Here we had a good supper, and dismissing our guide started out, by
+brilliant moonlight, for the last part of our journey. Shortly beyond
+the town, the road turned, for a moment, into the river, and after
+passing for a few rods in the river-bed, struck up again onto the bank.
+At this place we made a fatal blunder. When the road went down into the
+river, supposing that we were about to ford, we kept straight across the
+stream. Finding a road upon the other side we had no suspicion but what
+we were going well and travelled onward. For a long time we found trails
+of varying degree of badness. Sometimes the branches formed a complete
+tangle which, even in the daytime, would have required careful watching.
+As it was, the faces of the party were well scratched with thorns.
+Sometimes, we seemed to be on a good road; at others, we had hardly
+found a trail. At one place we passed a ranch--Corral de San Diego. A
+host of barking dogs announced our coming, and we cried out to the old
+man living there to tell us the road. His directions were not clear, but
+in attempting to follow them, we retraced our trail, and then struck
+into another road. Keeping to it until we really could not follow
+it further for the tangle, we retraced our steps until we came to a
+cart-road crossing that on which we were. We started first to the right
+upon this; then, concluding we were wrong, turned about and went the
+other way. We soon found ourselves off the road again, and travelling
+blindly through the brush. Coming to a round patch of clear sand, to
+which the trail on which we were seemed to have led us, we could find no
+way out. Convinced that we were hopelessly lost, we camped out upon the
+sand for the night. Fortunately we had a little corn with us which we
+gave to the horses, after which we tied them to the trees. As we lay
+upon the sand in the bright moonlight, we could hear the dashing of the
+sea waves not far away. The heat was intolerable and the mosquitoes
+venomous. We secured no rest, and, at the first signs of day, were ready
+for our start. The two boys went out to hunt a rabbit, but returned
+with most discouraging reports. While they were absent, Don Anselmo and
+myself were left in camp. Suddenly he cried out that our horses
+were running away; such was really the case. The last one was just
+disappearing in the brush and Anselmo started after them, leaving me
+to keep the camp. When the other two returned, they, too, started in
+pursuit. After a hard chase, the animals were captured and brought back.
+By seven we had mounted and were on our way. We retraced our trail of
+the night before, going back to the cart-road. A little before eight we
+came upon a ranch, the Ranchito del Boca del Rio. Here we asked our way,
+and found that we were still as far from San Mateo, as when we left
+Huilotepec the night before. Eating a light breakfast, we secured a
+guide who took us, by the shortest way across the river, back to the
+main trail for San Mateo, where he left us. The road was long and hot
+and sandy. Our horses could hardly keep up a decent walk. It seemed that
+we would never reach the town. More than an hour before we arrived at
+the town, we encountered little ranches belonging to it. Everywhere we
+saw flocks of sheep, cows and horses. Curiously, the Juaves have always
+had herds, since our first records of them, but they eat no meat. The
+country was more tropical than any through which we had passed. Clumps
+of palm trees were to be seen here and there. Pools of standing water,
+where horses and cattle stood cooling themselves, were frequent. The
+people whom we met wore little clothing. Men frequently had nothing but
+the breech-clout and hat. Women wore a skirt, but no upper garment.
+Children up to ten and twelve years of age ran naked. Reaching San Mateo
+at twelve o'clock, we found the village excited at our non-appearance.
+Our _carretero_ had arrived long before with our luggage. He had told
+the _presidente_ of our intended coming, and men from the town had been
+sent through the by-roads to seek for us. The town lies on a level
+stretch of sand, and the houses are built of canes and thatched with
+palm. Most of the trees in the village are palms; some, cocoa palms. The
+_plaza_ is a large open space. On one side of it is the church, of stone
+and brick; on another side is the town-building made of brick, covered
+with plaster, and consisting of three portions,--the _presidencia,
+curato_, and jail. A brick-paved corridor, roofed above, runs before
+the whole building. We were given the jail and _presidencia_ with the
+corridor. Here hammocks and a bed of palm stalks were prepared for us,
+and orders issued that eggs and _tortillas_ should be brought us. The
+Juaves raise no crops. They are fishermen, and their food and living
+come from the sea. Their dried fish and shrimps, and the salt, which
+they make from the brine-soaked bottoms of dried lagoons, go far and
+wide through the country, and for these they get in trade the corn,
+coffee, chocolate, and raw cotton which they need. We have already
+spoken of their cattle, which is a source of income, though, as stated
+before, the Juaves rarely eat meat food.
+
+[Illustration: JUAVE INDIANS; SAN MATEO DEL MAR]
+
+[Illustration: JUAVE FISHERMAN: SAN MATEO DEL MAR]
+
+The Juaves present a well-defined physical type. They are of medium
+stature or tall. Their noses are the largest and most prominent in
+indian Mexico, and are boldly aquiline. The men are rarely idle; even
+as they walk, they carry with them their netting, or spindle with which
+they spin cord for making nets. It seems to be law, and is certainly
+custom, that persons coming to the _plaza_ are expected to be more fully
+dressed than when travelling on the road or when in their homes. Usually
+white cotton drawers and shirt are worn in the _plaza_; outside,
+practically nothing but the breech-clout.
+
+There is an interesting commerce carried on in Juave towns by Zapotec
+traders from Juchitan. As might be expected, this is entirely in the
+hands of women. Some women make two journeys weekly between the two
+towns. They come in ox-carts, with loads of corn, fodder, coffee,
+chocolate, cotton and the like. These they trade or sell. When they
+return to Juchitan, they carry with them a lot of salted and dried
+fish, shrimps, salt and eggs. Upon these expeditions the whole family
+accompanies the woman; the traveling is done almost entirely by night.
+These Zapotec women are shrewd at bargaining. They must be doing a
+paying business. It was interesting to see the primitive devices for
+weighing. The scales consisted of two tin pans of equal size and weight
+hung from a balance beam. The only weight was a stone weighing a pound.
+In case a Juave woman wished to buy a quarter-of-a-pound of cotton, the
+procedure was as follows: The weight was put into one pan of the scales
+and a pound of cotton weighed out into the other; the weight was then
+removed and the cotton divided, so as to balance in the two pans; one of
+the pans was then emptied, and the remaining cotton again divided, with
+the result that a quarter-of-a-pound of cotton had been weighed.
+
+One curious feature, which we had not seen elsewhere, but which Dr.
+Castle had warned us we should find, was the nightly guard set upon us.
+As we lay upon our beds at night, looking out upon the white sand in
+front of us, we could see, by the moonlight, at some little distance,
+a circle of eight or ten men who spent the night sleeping within call.
+Another striking feature was the music which we heard in the late
+evening and early morning. In the early morning, five o'clock or
+earlier, and at sunset, there was service in the church. Later on, at
+eight, there was again singing in the churchyard, lasting until quite
+a late hour. One evening, on investigating, we found eight or ten men
+kneeling on the sand before the church door, singing in the moonlight.
+They were practicing for the procession and special service of the
+second Friday of Lent.
+
+The water-life of the Juaves is at once picturesque and curiously tame.
+The men spend much of their time on or in the water. They make great
+dugout canoes from large tree trunks. There are usually no paddles, but
+poles are used to propel the craft sluggishly over the waters of the
+lagoon. Few of the men can swim. The fish are chiefly caught with nets,
+and both seines and throw nets are used. The lagoons are said to abound
+in alligators, and the men, when fishing, generally carry with them
+spears with long iron points which are said to be used for protection
+against attacks of these reptiles. Great respect is shown the alligator,
+and curious superstitions prevail regarding it.
+
+Between San Mateo and the nearest of the great lagoons, the country
+ceases to be level and is covered with sand dunes. On these dunes there
+are great numbers of hares of a species peculiar to the locality. They
+make excellent eating, and Manuel kept our larder supplied with fresh
+meat, which was welcome, and which we could not otherwise have had among
+these non-meat-eating folk. An old Zapotec woman, seventy years of age,
+with snowy hair and gentle face, was deputed by the town authorities to
+do our cooking. Her relatives live in Juchitan, and why she had chosen
+to live among these people I do not know. She took a motherly interest
+in all our party. Nothing was too good for us. She spent her whole time
+in hunting supplies and cooking and serving food. Not only did she
+insist on all our purchases being supplied at cheapest rates, but her
+own charge for help and service was ridiculously small. From early
+morning until late at night the poor old soul was busy in our behalf. On
+our leaving, she took my hands between her own, and kissing them, begged
+that we would send her a picture as a remembrance.
+
+The road to Tehuantepec at night was one of no adventure. We were
+impressed with the great number of families travelling in ox-carts over
+these roads in the cool night air. It was a custom and habit of which we
+had before no realization. It lacked but ten minutes of one o'clock when
+finally we rode up to the hotel in Tehuantepec. From the hostler we
+learned that every room was full,--five persons in some cases sleeping
+in a single room. So we were compelled to lie down upon the porch
+outside until the morning.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV
+
+ON THE MAIN HIGH-ROAD
+
+(1899)
+
+
+After a day or two of rest, we started from Tehuantepec upon our return
+to Oaxaca. For the first time, we were to follow the usually travelled
+high-road. Our hearts failed us, as we thought of thus neglecting the
+lovely land of the Mixes, but it was on our program to see the Chontals.
+Starting at seven, we lost a little time in having a photograph of our
+party taken as we left the city, so that it was really 8:15 before we
+were on our way. Our plaster had been sent by _carreta_ to Xalapa. We
+had a hot, hot, hot ride over a heavy, difficult sand road. At least
+half a dozen times we forded the Tehuantepec river, and everywhere at
+places which would have justified the name, Xalapa, "the sandy water."
+Finally, arriving at Xalapa at four o'clock, we found it a large
+town, of the usual hot, dusty Zapotec kind. The authorities bestirred
+themselves vigorously to locate us in comfortable quarters, with an old
+lady of regal appearance and dignity. From the start, we feared that
+this royal appearance and dignity would be paid for, but the opportunity
+for comfort was not to be neglected. One of the houses of her royal
+domain was vacated for our use, and two good cots and a hammock were put
+at our disposal. The supper was abundant, and capital in quality, and
+there was plenty of food for the horses. Strolling down to the river
+after supper we found it broad but very shallow; it did not reach our
+knees at any point, when we waded across it; the bottom was, as we
+imagined it would be from the name, moving sand. After a bath in the
+much too shallow stream for swimming, we returned refreshed to our
+comfortable beds. As anticipated, we found the bill, when presented in
+the morning, truly regal; after some demur, our queenly hostess reduced
+it slightly, but, even so, we were reminded of the summer-resorts of our
+own country.
+
+Tequixistlan, perhaps the largest of the Chontal towns, we found without
+an official head. While we were in Tehuantepec the _jefe_ received
+notice of his father's death. This notice had been duly sent to all
+the villages and towns within the district, and, on a certain day, the
+_presidente_ and other chief officers of the different pueblos gathered
+at Tehuantepec to express their sympathy by speeches and to present
+flowers to the official. It was for this errand that the _presidente_ of
+Tequixistlan had gone to the _cabecera_. Had he been at home, perhaps
+we would have had no difficulty, but as it was we found the government
+disjointed and nerveless. Constant nagging and harrying were necessary
+in carrying out our wishes. The town itself was not bad. It stands upon
+a sort of terrace, at a little height above the neighboring river. The
+town-house is a long building, occupying the whole upper end of the
+large rectangular _plaza_; at the lower end is the fine church and
+_curato_. Along the sides were _tiendas_, school, etc., well built
+adobes and plastered over with tinted plaster. Behind the church beyond
+the river rises a handsome background of mountains. The long corridor in
+front of the municipal-house was fine and broad, with a high roof and
+brick pavement. Oleanders bloomed before this corridor. The view from
+it was fine, and the air cool there even in the middle of the day. We
+accordingly took possession of it, working and sleeping there. So far
+as personal comfort was concerned, we were well cared for. We had good
+meals, comfortable cots, plenty of food for the horses, but, as we have
+said, the work lagged, and it was only with the greatest difficulty that
+we could accomplish it.
+
+There is little distinctive about the Chontals, as we saw them. The
+women dress much like the Zapotec women in the neighboring towns. The
+men present nothing notable in dress. Outside the _plaza_, the houses
+were built of light materials, and resembled the ordinary cane-walled,
+thatched huts of the Zapotecs. The people appeared to be badly mixed,
+and this not only with white, but also with negro blood. Nevertheless,
+as we worked upon subject after subject, a fairly defined type seemed
+to grow upon us. We could see that the Chontals are tall, with rather
+well-shaped faces, though somewhat high cheek-bones, with light
+complexions, and with wavy or curly hair. When the work was finished,
+we had great difficulty in securing carriers to bear our burdens to San
+Bartolo. Enormous prices were demanded, and at last, angry over the
+attempted extortion, we threatened to leave all our stuff behind us, and
+hold the town responsible, reporting them to the authorities when we
+should reach Oaxaca, demanding that damages should be collected. These
+threats had the desired effect. The _secretario_, who had been the only
+member of the town government displaying energy in our behalf, promised
+by all that was sacred that our goods should be delivered promptly at
+San Bartolo; that if they were not already there on our arrival,
+we might safely arrange for further transportation from that town,
+convinced that the goods would come before we left.
+
+That we might not be too much delayed by this palaver regarding
+carriers, I had started the balance of the party ahead, and rode on
+alone after them. They had left at 10:15, and we all had a hot, dry,
+dusty, thirsty mountain ride until five o'clock in the afternoon, when
+we reached the ranch, Las Vacas. It consisted of a dozen houses. We
+rode to the last one in the place, which consisted of brush and leafy
+branches, and had an enclosed _corral_ adjoining it, where we asked
+for lodging. The owner was a young Zapotec, who, with his wife, was
+strikingly neat and clean. A little girl of seven was the only other
+member of the family. The house had but a single room, but there was a
+_coro_, or cane platform, and loft. Having fed our horses and eaten our
+own supper, I mounted to the loft, despite the advice of all the members
+of the party, who predicted smoke, heat, mosquitoes, fleas and other
+trials. They stayed below. There is no question that they fared worse
+from all the sources mentioned than myself. The woman worked until
+midnight, making _tortillas_ and cooking chicken for us to carry as
+luncheon on the road. We had started by four in the morning, and
+pushed along over a mountain road. The first portion of the road was
+well-watered, but afterward it became hot, dry, and stony. Having gained
+the pass looking down upon the valley, we could see, at its further
+side, lying on a terrace, the pueblo of San Bartolo, stretching out in
+a long line near the front of a mighty mountain, upon which plainly our
+way would pass. It was almost noon when we reached the municipal-house,
+and found that our carriers had already arrived, and left the luggage.
+Here things were really quite as bad as at Tequixistlan, but here
+fortunately we had no work to do. The town was Zapotec. One might
+suppose, from its being upon the main high-road, that they would be
+accustomed to see strangers. We have hardly found a population at once
+so stupid and timid. It was with great difficulty that we found food
+to eat. Here we had to pay for beds (made of sticks tied together),
+belonging to the municipality, a thing which we had never done at any
+other town in Mexico.
+
+[Illustration: VIEW FROM OUR CORRIDOR; SAN BARTOLO]
+
+The people wear curious and characteristic garments.
+
+All the stuff used for clothing is woven in the town, and not only the
+women's _camisas_, but the men's _camisas_ and trousers, are decorated
+with elaborate designs--birds, animals, and geometrical figures--worked
+in various colors. Even in purchasing examples of these clothes, we were
+compelled to make a vigorous display of our civil and religious orders.
+After some bickering, we arranged for carriers to San Carlos, which is
+the _cabecera_ of the district. Starting by moonlight, at two o'clock in
+the morning, we struck out over the enormous mountain mass to which we
+have already referred. Roads in the Zapotec country do not go directly
+up the hillside, as in the land of the Mixes, but zigzag by gentle
+diagonals up the slopes. The road was largely composed of jagged rock;
+two hours and fifteen minutes were necessary for the ascent; the descent
+was bad enough, but a distinct improvement. At one place, however,
+we wandered from the main-travelled road, and found ourselves in an
+abandoned portion of the road, full of great holes which were filled
+with drifted fallen leaves, so that their presence was not betrayed
+until our horses fell into them. The latter part of this descent was
+slippery, being over hard stone, which was worn almost to a glassy
+smoothness by the passage of many hoofs. A little before reaching
+Manteca, as we looked down from the height, we saw an immense train of
+pack-mules coming. In the good old days, before there were railroads,
+such trains as this were frequent. From Manteca the road penetrated into
+contracting valleys, until finally it might, with propriety, be called a
+canon road. At half past eight we reached San Carlos, a mean town with
+no _meson_ or other regular stopping-place. We left the horses under
+the shady trees with the old farrier. While we rested and waited for
+breakfast, I called upon the _jefe politico_, who had received several
+communications from me, and had become interested in my work. Our
+luggage was all at his office, and he promptly made arrangements for its
+further transportation. At breakfast, we received the cheerful news
+that Mr. Lang's horse had the lockjaw and showed signs of dying. On
+inspection, this proved to be quite true; the poor animal was in great
+pain, and could eat nothing, though making every effort to do so. Our
+first thought was a shot in the head to put it out of misery, but the
+old farrier wished to try a _remedio_. He did his best, and it looked as
+if the animal might recover; it was plain, however, that he could not be
+used again that afternoon. Accordingly, an extra horse was rented for
+Mr. Lang's use. The remainder of the party was started on the road at
+1:50, while I waited to give the _remedio_ a chance to operate and the
+beast an opportunity to rest. At three I started, leading the sick
+horse. We had a fine ride in the cool of the evening, over a mountain
+road past the little ranch El Quemado, beyond which we found an immense
+ascent. When we reached the summit, it was fast darkening, and I
+pressed on as rapidly as the led horse would permit. Finally, I reached
+Escondido at seven. Several large parties of packers, with their trains
+of mules, had already settled for the night; camp-fires were burning.
+Here and there drinking had been going on, and there was noise of loud
+laughter, singing and dancing. Our party was already eating supper when
+I arrived, and my own meal had been ordered. Shelter was supplied
+us adjoining the house, where we spread our blankets and spent a
+comfortable night. We were late in starting, and were not upon the road
+until seven in the morning. We found the high-road most uninteresting.
+For long distances we descended, passing a ranch and emerging finally
+into a deep, hot gorge. By the time we reached Pichones we were tired,
+hot and thirsty. There, however, we could get no water, for man or
+beast, for love or money; suffering with thirst, the road seemed long to
+the river near Totolapa, where we refreshed ourselves with water, but a
+heavier road than ever had to be traversed. Much of the way we followed
+the stream-bed, fording repeatedly; the remainder was through deep sand
+and over rolling pebbles. Passing Juanico, on a high bank overlooking
+the river, at noonday, we were delighted to strike upon a rock road,
+high on the river bank. Keeping to this trail, passing from plantations
+of bananas lying at the river level below us and catching many pretty
+views of valley and of mountain, we at last reached Totolapa, completely
+worn out with the journey and the heat. Here we rested until the heat of
+the day should be past.
+
+[Illustration: OUR PARTY LEAVING TEHUANTEPEC]
+
+[Illustration: ZAPOTEC WOMEN AND GIRLS, TLACOLULA]
+
+We had expected at this town to secure a muleteer, as the one we hired
+from San Carlos had agreed to come only to this town. Here, too, we had
+expected to rent a new horse for Mr. Lang. Our muleteer, however, was
+much taken with the party, and declared that he should hire himself to
+continue with us to Tlacolula. We quickly arranged with him, and at four
+o'clock prepared to leave. The sick horse was then at its worst; it had
+lain down, and for a time we believed it was really dead; it was out of
+the question for it to go further; so, calling one of the villagers, I
+told him that he might have the horse, and if there was any possibility
+of curing, it, he should do what might be necessary.
+
+From four to seven it was a tiresome climb, largely through stream-beds
+to Carvajal. It is a large _rancho_, but we stopped at the first house
+we came to, a miserable place, where, however, we got coffee, bread,
+beans and eggs, and some mats for beds, which we laid out upon the
+ground, under the open sky. Taking early coffee and _tortillas_, we were
+again mounted at four and on our way. It was the last ascent. The moon
+was shining brightly, and we could see that the road followed the edge
+of a fine gorge. When we once reached the summit, there was no further
+descent to make. We were on the high, flat, table-land of Oaxaca, and
+from here to the capital city of the state, the road is level, and
+passes through a rich agricultural district. Passing San Dionisio at
+seven, we pressed on as rapidly as possible to Tlacolula, where we
+arrived before noon, ready for the good meals and comfortable quarters
+which we well knew awaited us there.
+
+Tlacolula is a large town, in the midst of a dusty valley. Its houses
+are large, rectangular constructions, well built of poles, with fine
+thatched roofs. They stand in yards, which are enclosed by fences of
+organ-pipe cactus. The people dress well, and at almost every house they
+own an ox-cart and a yoke of animals. While photographing there that
+afternoon, we suggested that we wanted a group of girls and women in
+native dress. "Very well; I will take you to the house, where you can
+get one." Arrived there, the policeman at once led out five women and
+four children, whom he placed in line. After the picture was taken, we
+expressed our satisfaction and surprise that so good a group had been so
+readily secured at a single house. "Oh, sir," he replied, "we struck a
+lucky time; there is a funeral going on there."
+
+[Illustration: IN THE HOT VALLEY; CUICATLAN]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XV
+
+CUICATLAN
+
+(1899)
+
+
+Between Tehuacan and Oaxaca the railroad passes through a low, deep
+valley which is ever hot. Few people on the train pass through this
+valley without feeling its depressing influence. It would seem that
+travelers would hardly stop at stations within its limits, unless
+impelled by actual necessity. The most important of the towns in this
+valley is Cuicatlan. Little of it is to be seen from the railroad, but
+in reality it is a notably picturesque village.
+
+It is the _cabecera_ of a district in which dwell three most interesting
+tribes--the Cuicatecs, Chinantecs, and Mazatecs. We had time to visit
+only the nearest of the Cuicatec towns. Cuicatlan itself is situated
+near one side of a valley, through which runs a considerable stream. The
+distant bank rises in two magnificent mountain masses. The nearer bank,
+at the very base of which the town nestles on a series of little hills,
+rises into almost sheer precipices of purple conglomerate. These cliffs
+are hundreds of feet high, and are, apparently, due to a gigantic
+landslide. The mass which fell must have measured fully two miles in
+length, and still lies, broken and heaped up, at the base of the cliffs.
+The face of the cliffs, and the fallen masses of rock at its base, are
+cut into narrow gullies and gaps by water. The town consists of several
+clusters of houses, scaled along the slopes of little hillocks and
+settled into the spaces between them. Gigantic cactuses surround the
+town, and cocoa palms rise to great heights within it.
+
+It is customary for travelers to emphasize the slowness of the Mexicans.
+Either we have been exceptionally fortunate, or the reputation is
+largely undeserved. We have been rarely delayed by sluggish action.
+Here, however, we found a _jefe_ who would surely satisfy the most
+complaining. He was mild in manner, gentle in speech, fond of brilliant
+plans and schemes, all of which, however, were to be put in operation
+to-morrow and not to-day. It was with difficulty that we impressed upon
+him our necessity. We told him that we wanted animals to carry us to
+Papalo. In reply, he told us that Papalo was but a poor town, and he
+outlined a journey the traveling alone in which would occupy some
+eight or ten days. When we assured him that we had no time for such an
+enterprise, he said that it would be much better for the towns to come
+to us in Cuicatlan. He proposed sending to-morrow to those towns, and
+assured us that, at the end of a week's time, we would have all the
+subjects we needed. So, when we suggested that this, too, was loss of
+time, he had other brilliant plans, all quite as useless. With the
+utmost difficulty we finally succeeded in getting him to arrange for
+animals to go to Papalo. From the very start, the road was up-hill.
+Passing first through a section covered with a magnificent growth of
+tree cactuses of two species, in fine fruit and flower, we found the
+vegetation varied as we mounted, and at last came up among the pines.
+There was a great variety of landscape and geological formation.
+Purple-red conglomerate, with horizontal layers weathered into massive
+forms; granitic schistose rocks, over which we later passed, gave their
+peculiar scenic outlines. We climbed steadily for fully four hours,
+and then looked down, along a gently sloping hill trail, to our town,
+perched upon a slightly lower hill. Just at the edge of the town, we
+passed a gang of men and boys at work, making a level platform for the
+new _plaza_ and town-house. We congratulated ourselves that we should
+have no difficulty, here, in finding subjects. The town claimed three
+thousand population. Many of them were certainly away upon their fields
+and ranches, scattered through the mountains, and working _fincas_ for
+wealthy landowners. The town itself is picturesque in the extreme.
+Notable among its features is the ruined church, the roof of which has
+fallen in; the walls still stand, bare and broken, but the decorations,
+some richly carved and gilded, are still unmoved within the
+demolished edifice. The damage was recent, and represented a double
+catastrophe--lightning and earthquake.
+
+[Illustration: CACTUS; CUICATLAN]
+
+We could not begin work until the _mozo_ came with the instruments.
+Finally, at four o'clock in the afternoon, we began measuring with no
+great difficulty. Before night, fifteen subjects had passed through our
+hands and one bust had been made. Even when we arrived, at midday, it
+was too cold for us to stay with comfort in the town-house, though it
+was hot enough outside in the sunshine. When night came, it was bitter
+cold, and we went to bed early in hope of keeping warm, a hope without
+foundation. Early the next morning, we were ready for our work. Every
+one had disappeared, except those whom we had measured the night before.
+We requested the town authorities to bring in subjects. A few stragglers
+were dragged in and measured, and some pictures taken. Notwithstanding
+the poor way in which they had done their work, the policemen struck,
+declaring that they would not bring others until they had been paid. It
+was plain the town needed a lesson. We promptly paid the demand made
+upon us, and, then, calling the _presidente_ and the _secretario_,
+we told them that we must have a receipt for the payment to show the
+_jefe_. We said that such a thing was unheard of; that, for town
+officials to demand pay, before they would agree to obey the order
+of their chief, was mutiny. At first they flatly refused to give the
+receipt, but after a little consultation were anxious to return the
+money, and threats were freely made to throw the whole police-force into
+jail. We said that this was not our desire; we were surprised at the
+demand, but, having met it, we insisted upon having our receipt. A
+meeting of the town authorities being held to consider the matter, our
+request was again refused, but attention was called to the fact that
+some subjects were waiting outside to be measured and photographed. I
+thereupon refused to measure or photograph any person until my demand
+had been met. I showed them, clearly, the position in which they had
+placed themselves; I stated that when they had done a wrong, and a
+stranger demanded an official statement of the case, their duty was
+simple and clear. By this time my own party was in arms; photographer,
+plaster-worker, Manuel, all were scared. They insisted that our throats
+would be cut that night. They called attention to the ugly manner and
+black looks of the town authorities. They declared that we had better
+flee, while yet there was opportunity; they insisted that they had not
+left comfortable homes to be murdered in cold blood; they begged that I
+would, at least, retreat from the position taken, and consent to measure
+the subjects who were waiting. I assured them that it was far more
+important to teach the town a lesson regarding their duty to their
+higher officials, than to measure a few indians. Finally, after hours
+of uncertainty, black looks, mutterings, and refusals, the town
+capitulated, and the receipt was in my possession. Having gained my
+point, I called the attention of the town officials to the bearings of
+the case. I emphasized their duty to the _jefe_. They knew, quite well,
+that it was out of place to demand money for obeying his order; I stated
+that I appreciated whatever work the policemen might have done, and
+that, in due season, I might have recognized it by a gift, but that
+demands were quite another thing. I showed them how important it was,
+that, when trouble rose between them and a stranger, they should furnish
+any statement of the case he might, in justice, ask. Having stated the
+matter fully, I consented to receive back the money, and tore up the
+receipt much to their relief.
+
+[Illustration:]
+
+Still the work went slowly. No one was left in town but the officials
+and some women. The latter locked and barred their doors, at the
+approach of any of the town authorities, and neither threats to burn
+their houses above their heads nor bribes would bring them forth. It was
+only after three days of hard work that eighty men and twenty-five women
+were secured. By that time, it was plain that the other men were safely
+out of reach, and we concluded that naught remained but to return to
+Cuicatlan, to complete our work with representatives from other towns.
+This we did, although we found our _jefe_ still gentle, mild, and slow.
+
+Once in the hot valley, we concluded that we might as well see more of
+it. Leaving Cuicatlan at noon, a few minutes' ride brought us to the
+station at Tecomavaca, perhaps the hottest of the hot valley towns.
+Within it are ruins which have been strangely neglected by all tourists
+and investigators. Probably, the great heat has killed whatever little
+enthusiasm may have been kindled in those who have seen aught of these
+ruins. When we reached the station, in the hottest portion of the day,
+the valley seemed to glow; all looked hot and desolate. There were no
+_mozos_ to help in carrying baggage, though the town was fully half a
+mile from the station, behind bare, hot, sandy hills. It is one of the
+poorest and meanest of the Mexican towns. A dreary _plaza_ is surrounded
+by miserable adobe, or adobe-plastered, buildings. The only edifices
+that looked clean and neat were the school, jail, and town-house. We
+found shelter at a sort of a _meson_, where we could get no supper until
+nine, or possibly till ten. Rather than go inside the rooms, we took
+possession of the corridor, and there, with two cots, a table, and the
+floor, lay down to rest. But not to sleep! The town, small as it was,
+had twenty cases of _la grippe_. The woman of the house where we were
+stopping was one of these. Her husband, who came back from the mountains
+long after dark, appeared to have an affection and solicitude regarding
+her, which, under other circumstances, might have been quite touching,
+but which, then, was thoroughly exasperating. While he cooked his own
+supper, made chocolate for her, and heated hot water for her use, he
+kept passing back and forth, between the kitchen and the sick chamber,
+until later than two o'clock in the morning. The noise which he made,
+and these repeated movements, kept us all awake the whole night long.
+The night was hot and close, and new and unknown insects troubled
+us extremely. We were glad to be dressed and mounted, the following
+morning. Riding across the river, we made the ascent to the summit, on
+which were the ruins of Tecomavaca Viejo. The ascent was so abrupt that
+our horses were repeatedly compelled to stop for breath. The trail
+passed through cactuses, and spiny shrubs and trees, which tore our
+clothes more than all we had endured during weeks of travel. The ruins
+are unquestionably old. The hilly slope presents a succession of
+terraced platforms, one behind the other, at different heights. The
+rock walls between these are banked up and faced with rock, coated with
+plaster and mud; there are many pyramids and mounds; there are also
+curious subterranean, stone-faced, graves. Many curious disks of stone
+were found, a foot or eighteen inches in diameter, and three or four
+inches thick; these were all reddish grit, and had plainly been piled
+one upon another to form pillars. Along the forward edge of some of the
+terraced platforms, we found the lower discs of some columns still in
+place. While the amount of work, represented in these cut terraces,
+banked rocks, and subterranean constructions, impressed us greatly, it
+was difficult to get a clear idea of the relationship of the parts.
+
+[Illustration: CACTUS NEAR CUICATLAN]
+
+[Illustration: VIEW IN A TLAXCALAN BARRANCA]
+
+When, however, we found ourselves at the station, waiting for the train,
+we looked back across the river to our three ruin-crowned hills. Then,
+for the first time, having visited the spot, we could clearly make out
+the relations. Three natural mountains or hills, the greater, central
+one flanked on both sides by lesser, had been utilized by the old
+builders; the natural rock masses had been cut and walled, until they
+practically formed masses of construction, rising terrace behind
+terrace, to the very summit. When the terraces were entire, with their
+temple-crowned pyramids, and with embankments and walls in full repair,
+these vast constructions must have been indeed impressive.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVI
+
+IN TLAXCALAN TOWNS
+
+(1900)
+
+
+A street-car line, running for most of the distance down hill, connects
+Santa Ana with Tlaxcala, the towns being separated by seven miles. When
+making this little journey to Tlaxcala in January, 1897, we noticed
+in the car with us, a stout, purely indian man, who seemed anxious
+to engage us in conversation. Knowing a few words of English, he was
+particularly anxious to practice them. He called our attention to the
+various villages, streams, and mountains in the country through which
+we were passing, and took delight in analyzing the native names and
+explaining their meanings. When we were returning in the afternoon, we
+met a gentleman who had been in the same car with us in the morning, and
+we inquired regarding our indian acquaintance. He told us that he was
+a full-blooded indian, whose native tongue was Aztec, and who lived in
+Santa Ana. Being the child of poor parents, the state had assisted in
+his education; he was now studying law in the city of Puebla. He was
+also a musician, and on this occasion had been upon his way to a public
+appointment, where he was to sing.
+
+Later, in Puebla, we called upon this gentleman, whose name we found was
+Quechol, meaning a bird with a crooked neck, perhaps a flamingo. He was
+interested in our study, and said we ought some time to visit the indian
+towns of his people upon the slopes of Malintzi. In January, 1900,
+having been delayed in our plans, we decided to spend a few days in
+Tlaxcala, and secured his company. Our preparations were made at Santa
+Ana; at the home of his parents we were hospitably welcomed, and
+chocolate and bread were furnished, before we started on our journey.
+While this refreshment was preparing, we visited the old church, in
+front of which stood an aged cypress tree, hung with gray moss and
+blazing with red flowers. We also entered some of the houses, where,
+on domestic looms, the _serapes_ for which the town is famous are
+manufactured. We visited also a private school for girls, established by
+a Senor Barela, who is noted as the first to introduce the industry of
+weaving wool into this community. While the memory of this gentleman
+is held in high esteem by this people, that of his wife is by no means
+savory. It seems that she was an avaricious, vain and selfish woman,
+with no sympathy for his schemes for the betterment of the people. Her
+feeling was well known, and she died heartily hated by all. When the
+time came for her burial, the grave was prepared, and her body placed
+within it. But the earth twice refused to receive the corpse. It was
+then carried to to the Sawapa, near by, and thrown into its waters. The
+stream overflowed its banks, and tossed the body upon the ground; again
+the effort was made to thus dispose of it, but again it was thrown upon
+the shore. It was then suggested that it be carried to "the Cuezcomate,"
+an extinct geyser-crater, famous through all the country, and popularly
+believed to be the mouth of hell; when the body was thrown into this
+opening, it is said the devils were seen to swarm upward to receive it.
+
+It was almost noon as our little party started on foot in the direction
+of Malintzi. Our indian friend, his brother, a white friend, our
+photographer, our Mexican boy and ourself, made up the party, and we
+were followed by three _mozos_ on foot carrying supplies of food. We
+struck out over a sandy plain, where the foot sunk deep into dry sand,
+until we finally reached a well-built wall of stone, considered in the
+district a notable piece of engineering. It was constructed to turn the
+course of a little stream which, in times of flood, has frequently done
+damage to the town. From here, our trail led us on through the sandy
+pine-scrub, broken now and then by narrow gullies, called _barrancas_,
+with almost vertical sides. In every case, we were obliged to descend
+into these gullies and climb out upon the other side. After one and a
+half hours of walking we reached the village of San Pedro, where we
+stopped for dinner. The two Americans accompanying us lay down upon the
+ground, completely tired out, and were fast asleep within five minutes.
+Manuel assisted the local cook in preparing dinner, while we talked with
+visitors until the meal was ready. The houses of San Pedro are well
+constructed of stone, set in adobe, and have well-thatched roofs. The
+granaries, or _cuezcomates_, are of unusual size and well built. They
+range from six or eight feet in height to twelve or more, and are shaped
+like great urns, open at the top, which is protected by a thatch,
+generally two-pitched. The _temascals_ were also unusually well built of
+stone, and frequently were neatly covered with white plaster. Soon
+after leaving San Pedro, in the afternoon, we came upon two indian boys
+digging in the ground. Inquiring what they were doing, we learned that
+they were hunting honey-ants, and in a moment our whole party was
+engaged in the same operation. These ants were found some inches below
+the surface, either singly, or in roundish holes containing half a dozen
+or more; the abdomen was swelled until it was as round as a pea and as
+large as a fair-sized currant, and was filled with honey. To get the
+sweet liquid, one takes the insect by the head or forward body and
+pressing the honey bag sucks out the contents. It is sweet and rich,
+with a little twang, as if fermented, and people in the district call
+it honey-wine. Three quarters of an hour brought us to San Francisco,
+though we had to go down and up two large _barrancas_ before we reached
+the town. It was almost sunset when we arrived. Sitting down before
+the town-house, we sent for the _agente_. Soon after our arrival the
+church-bell rang furiously, and the din and clangor was kept up a long
+time. While waiting for the official, supper was prepared, though we had
+had some difficulty in arranging for it, and were in doubt as to where
+we were to spend the night. Before supper was ready, a motley crowd
+poured into the room in which we sat. One large fellow carried a great
+sword strapped at his side, another bore a short sword, another a knife,
+another a large and ancient gun. Probably there were other weapons not
+in sight. This group of indians was the _agente_ and his _guardia_. We
+were objects of suspicion, and much argument, and an abundant supply of
+_huitzatl_--strong drink--were necessary, before we secured permission
+to spend the night at the house where we were to have supper. No sooner
+had this company withdrawn and supper been eaten, than we prepared for
+bed. One wooden bed, with a mat of rushes, served for Senor Quechol and
+myself. A second mat, laid on the floor, formed the bed for our four
+companions. In the morning, we took a walk to Akxotla, where we wished
+to see an ancient painting. Here we encountered greater suspicion than
+before, and, after wasting the greater part of the day, accomplished
+nothing. It is true an indian made a _camalpa_ for us. This is a
+stringed musical instrument; though the name is Aztec, it is unlikely
+that it was known before the coming of the Spaniards. Quechol says the
+word means mouth-harp, coming from the Aztec _cam_, mouth, and the
+Spanish _harpa,_ harp. We returned to San Francisco for our dinner, and
+at four o'clock again started on our journey.
+
+It was after five before we reached San Bartolome. As we drew near the
+village, we saw a magnificent double rainbow, brilliantly displayed
+upon the eastern sky against a cloud of almost inky blackness. Looking
+westward, as we entered the village, we saw the sun setting in a sea of
+gold, between Popocatapetl and Ixtaccihuatl. Watching this magnificent
+sunset, we sat down before the old church, and almost instantly a
+crowd gathered to see what the strangers might want. Don Romualdo, in
+wandering through the village, found a _temascal_ in use, and hurrying
+to us, led us to see the method of its use. It is a dome-shaped
+structure, with an entrance so low that one must crawl upon his hands
+and knees in entering; it is a sweat-bath, used for cleanliness and
+health. A quick fire, built inside, heats it thoroughly, after which
+water is thrown upon the hot stones to produce steam. Four persons, of
+both sexes, were in the one in question, taking a sweat-bath. When we
+returned to our companions, sitting before the church, an indian of the
+village, accosting Don Romualdo, claimed to know him; he also claimed my
+acquaintance, and reminded me that he had been one of the subjects I had
+measured two years before in Tlaxcala. A score or more of natives had
+gathered, in the moonlight, around our party. Having heard some indians
+singing, we tried to get these to sing some native songs. Only after
+Louis and Frank had sung some English songs, which were well received,
+were we able to hear Aztec songs in exchange. After a long delay, we
+were taken to the schoolhouse for supper and the night, and spent the
+balance of the evening in taking down a native song, _The Tlaxcalteca_,
+and witnessing a dance which accompanied it. A bed was made up for the
+party by putting various benches and tables together.
+
+[Illustration: TLAXCALAN HOUSE WITH TEMASCAL.]
+
+[Illustration: THE MAPAHO IN USE; SAN JUAN ZAUTLA]
+
+Most of the following day was spent in visiting in the village,
+purchasing idols and in making notes on life and customs; at four
+o'clock in the afternoon, we set out for Ixcotla. Near sunset we reached
+the house of Quechol's uncle, old Isidro. Almost eighty years of age, he
+was straight and lithe as a man of thirty. His house and all the lesser
+buildings of his place were excellent and in fine condition. A flight
+of steps led to the flat roof, from which we watched the sunset. In the
+yard, were half a dozen hives for bees, made from the stocks of the
+_maguey_. The old man was rich, and owned other houses, but he lives
+alone, his wife being dead and his daughters married. He is a master of
+the Aztec, and uses it in its most poetical and figurative style. He
+does not speak like common men, but his conversation abounds in metaphor
+and flowers of speech. When once one spoke to him of his lonely and
+solitary life, he said, "Alone and solitary! No, we are three! There are
+here myself, my good angel, and my bad angel. I am never alone." Isidro
+knows all the boundaries of the fields, and can trace all the titles,
+and is frequently appealed to in land disputes, and even in law cases,
+is summoned to give testimony. He received us heartily, offered
+cigarettes and ordered supper. To refresh us, he broke fresh leaves from
+the orange-tree and steeped them in hot water, sweetening with sugar.
+After supper, good beds were made upon the floor, with plenty of mats
+and blankets.
+
+We had hardly risen in the morning, when the village was thrown into
+great excitement by the appearance of a band of soldiers. They had come
+to arrest a young man supposed to be a leader in the local opposition to
+Governor Cahuantzi. This opposition was just at fever heat; the election
+was approaching, and a fierce effort was being made to oust the
+governor. Forty-four towns were in open rebellion, among them, all of
+those which we had visited. There had been new laws passed regarding
+land and taxes; these had been resisted. The governor had threatened
+to send engineers to make new surveys, and to bring land-titles into
+question. The suspicion and distrust which we had met were doubtless, in
+large part, due to these measures, and the fear that we were government
+spies. So great was the discontent, and so openly expressed, that it was
+said that on the Saturday preceding, in the Plaza of Tlaxcala itself,
+there was a riot, with cries of derision and contempt, and firing of
+guns upon the palace. We were told that the nearest _haciendero_, who
+was friendly to the governor, was marked for assassination and would be
+killed within the next few days.
+
+Leaving at ten next morning, we skirted Santa Ana, and, having passed
+through San Pablo, came out upon the banks of the Sawapa. This pretty
+stream has reputed remedial power, and in May hundreds of people bathe
+in its waters, to protect themselves against small-pox. As we crossed
+the great stone bridge, we met a drunken indian who attached himself to
+our party. Between him and the Mexican members of our party, there arose
+hostility and an exchange of angry words. To us, personally, he was
+maudlinly affectionate and respectful. Finally, shaking him off, after
+climbing a considerable height, we stopped at Belen for a noonday rest
+and lunch. Dinner having been ordered, we seated ourselves in the shade,
+when our drunken friend again appeared upon the scene, and in great
+excitement, begged me to move, as it was certain death for a heated and
+perspiring person to sit in the shadow of a Peru tree. So persistent was
+he, that Quehcol and Manuel lost all patience, and ordered the local
+officials to arrest him.
+
+About the middle of the afternoon we were again upon the road; having
+passed the bare, fortress-like church of San Mateo, and descended a long
+hill, toward evening we crossed a fine bridge over a gorge of black
+basaltic rock, and shortly reached Santa Maria Atlihuitzia, where we
+planned to spend the night. Here is a fine old church, with a facade
+absolutely covered with elaborate carving; a square tower rises at one
+corner. The great altar is a magnificent piece of carving and gold
+work; the windows are set with thin slabs of onyx. Within, near the
+church-door, are two paintings representing the scene of mayrtrdom for
+which the town is famous. These pictures are ancient, and represent some
+interesting details of indian life at the time of the Conquest. The
+head-dress and mantle of feathers worn by the old chieftain, the dress
+and hair-dressing of his wife, war weapons and buildings are all shown.
+Here, in 1527, the boy Cristoval, child of the great chief Acxotecatl
+and his wife Apalxitzin, was killed by his father because he would not
+renounce Christianity. The little lad was only thirteen years of age,
+and had been trained by Spanish priests. He was the proto-martyr of
+the new world, and the story of his martyrdom and the early church in
+Tlaxcala, have been charmingly narrated by Mendieta. Close by the church
+stand the ruined walls of the monastery, impressive for their massive
+construction and the enormous space which was enclosed. It was dark
+before we finished the examination of these quaint and interesting
+old buildings, and we were glad enough to go to the house of the
+_secretario_, where we found good beds and elaborate furniture. In the
+room where we were to sleep there was a _nacimiento_, made in connection
+with the Christmas season. The table was covered with little landscapes,
+scattered over which were figures of many kinds, including a group of
+San Jose, Maria, and the infant Christ.
+
+Santa Maria is purely _mestizo_. In the morning, finding breakfast
+somewhat slow, we started for a walk, and passing by the old church,
+came shortly to the spot where the boy martyr was killed. From here we
+descended, over a long slope of gray tufa, to a pretty stream flowing
+through black basalt. The rock is hard and shiny with cells or
+air-bubbles scattered through its mass. Close by the water's edge we
+were shown some curious impressions, on the nearly level surface of the
+rock, which were said to be the imprints of the knees of the Holy Virgin
+as she knelt here to wash clothes in the brook; there are also grooves
+made by the Virgin's fingers as she scrubbed the clothing on the rock;
+by the side of these impressions are two hollows, marking the spot where
+the Holy Child sat with its mother as she worked. On the rock behind
+is the impression of a mule's foot. Formerly there were two of these
+impressions, but in 1888 a tornado broke away the mass of rock, on which
+was the other impression. Just below this place the stream leaps in a
+pretty cascade which, with its white foam, contrasts strikingly with the
+black rock. The trail followed by Cortez on his way from Vera Cruz to
+Tlaxcala was pointed out to us and we were told that Atlihuitzia in
+those days was an important city, numbering five thousand _solteros_
+(unmarried men). On the way back to the village, we visited the _arbol
+huerfano_--orphan tree--a cypress, so called because it is the only tree
+of its kind in this district. Quechol says that a long line of such
+trees, at a distance of several leagues apart, was planted by the
+Spaniards, and he and the villagers mentioned a number of them in
+different places. Passing once more by the spot of martyrdom, a white
+_capulin_ was pointed out, as being the very tree represented in the
+picture of the killing.
+
+It was now almost ten o'clock and we found breakfast waiting. At
+Quechol's request, it was a purely Mexican meal, consisting of
+Aztec dishes. We had _tamales_, _atole_, and, for the first time,
+_champurado_. The latter is _atole_--corn gruel--mixed with chocolate,
+and is really an excellent dish. After breakfast, we left our friends of
+Atlihuitzia and hastened back over the same road past San Mateo, Belen,
+San Pablo, and Santa Ana. The way was long and the sun was hot, but the
+road was beguiled with many stories regarding the places that we passed,
+for the whole state of Tlaxcala abounds in legend.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVII
+
+IN THE CHINANTLA
+
+(1900)
+
+
+Once more we found ourselves in picturesque Cuicatlan. Walking up the
+familiar street, we again found lodging with Dona Serafina. Having
+settled, and taken a look out over the beautiful landscape visible
+through our windows, we interviewed the _jefe politico_, whom we we
+found the same nerveless, well-meaning individual as ever. After
+grumbling, and insisting that it was impossible to fit us out on such
+short notice, he finally promised that all should be ready the next
+morning. It was a sorry outfit that we found; one medium-sized mule for
+myself, and four small _burros_ for the other members of the party. A
+boy from the jail was sent with us as _mozo_ to carry our instruments.
+It was still early when we started through the hot, sandy, flat land,
+covered with gigantic cactus trees, which swarmed with little birds of
+many beautiful kinds. We soon began to climb the great, red rock cliffs,
+up, and up, and up, endlessly. We had forgotten how long the road was;
+but it was longer than ever on account of the beasts we rode. Long
+before we reached Papalo, Manuel and Louis were on foot, rather than
+longer submit to the torture of riding their little _burros_. As we
+neared the town, we were surprised to find a cloud effect almost as fine
+as that near Juquila in the Mixe country. Had it had clearly defined
+banks on both sides, its resemblance to a cataract would have been
+complete. As it was, there was no boundary back of the side towards us,
+and the clouds plunged over and downward as well as in the direction of
+the flow of the main mass. No one in the town recognized us. Supper and
+a night's lodging were readily supplied, but when we wished to secure
+new animals for the onward journey, there was difficulty. They were
+promised, indeed, for seven o'clock, but it was long after eight before
+we saw any signs of their appearance. Remonstrating, we were told that
+there was other business to attend to, and that the town officials could
+not devote themselves to us. With great difficulty, by 10 o'clock all
+preparations were made, and we started on the journey. The animals were
+not bad, but we had been told that there were eight leagues of hard road
+between us and Tepanapa, and six more from there to San Juan Zautla, our
+destination; we were told that we should spend the night at Tepanapa,
+reaching Zautla the second day. As we left the town we overtook a
+funeral procession on its way to the little hill-crest cemetery which we
+passed soon after. At first the road was good, gradually ascending. It
+led us up a rising pine-covered crest, with a little hollow of deciduous
+trees in the midst. We were again getting into a region where the great
+hills presented two differing slopes, one dry, pine-clad; the other
+moist and covered with the dense tropical forest. We soon found
+ourselves upon the damp slope in a forest, almost the counterpart of
+those with which we were familiar in the land of the Mixes. Great oaks
+were loaded with bromelias and dotted with orchids; ferns of many
+beautiful kinds grew along the roadside. Unlike the forest of the Mixes,
+the trees here were hung with masses of golden-yellow moss, presenting
+a curious and mysterious aspect. From here, the trail descended rapidly
+over surfaces of slippery stone and patches of mud; the air was heavier
+and heavier with moisture. Ferns abounded, and presently great tree
+ferns were to be seen, here and there, in all directions. Shortly, our
+road was through a true gorge, where the footing for the horses was
+precarious. Great masses of lycopods of several species covered the
+rocks and little round tufts of a dark green plant with feathery foliage
+dotted the decaying tree trunks. The descent seemed endless, and for
+more than two hours we descended deeper and deeper into the dampness and
+darkness. It was six o'clock when we came out upon a slope where the
+trail was easier and almost level, and it was after dark before we
+reached the first hut of the miserable _ranchito_ of Tepanapa. Checking
+our horses, we called, but received no answer. Sending our _mozo_ to the
+house, we asked for food and shelter, but were refused everything, as
+they said that they were in bed. A little lad, however, agreed to show
+us to the next hut, and we followed him as well as we could in the
+darkness and over the slippery road, some rods further. We found there
+two empty huts within an enclosure, and, taking possession of one,
+brought in our things out of the mist, and soon had a fire built and a
+candle lighted. In vain we urged our _mozo_ to hunt for food. He said
+that all the houses were empty, and, if perchance one were occupied, no
+one would turn out so late to supply us. All were extremely hungry, as
+we had eaten nothing since morning except a _tortilla_ or two with some
+eggs as we rode along. Manuel, Louis and Frank slept in the loft, Ramon
+and I upon the floor below. The two _mozos_ with the saddles slept in
+the other hut. The night was cold and the damp air penetrating. We arose
+early to go upon our way, but unfortunately yielded to the request of
+Louis and Ramon, permitting them to go in search of food. Two full hours
+passed before they returned with a few _tortillas_ and two eggs; so that
+it was half-past-eight when finally we started.
+
+[Illustration: SAN JUAN ZAUTLA]
+
+The road was slippery and muddy, descending constantly; a large portion
+of the way was through woods: at the bottom of the slope we found
+ourselves by a fine brook, which we forded. Then began an ascent as
+precipitous, slippery and unpleasant. The trail followed the bank of the
+stream. Passing through a dense jungle of vegetation, where the air was
+hot and wet, the flora was characteristic. Trees with large, coarse,
+broad pods enclosing two or three great seeds, trees with acorn-shaped
+red fruits, quantities of sensitive plants covered with pink flowers,
+occasional orchids bearing flowers of brilliant flame color, and vines
+with lovely blue pea-flowers made up the bulk of the tangled growth
+through which we passed. At two places we crossed pretty streams, with
+cascades and narrow gorges, opening on to the gorge along the sides of
+which we were travelling; where these streams crossed our trail there
+were great masses of caladiums with their leaves of green velvet. We
+passed two little coffee plantations, the first of which was sadly
+neglected and overgrown with weeds, the second neatly kept. From this we
+rose again, and having gained the summit, looked down upon the village
+of San Juan Zautla.
+
+Riding to the town-house, we met the _presidente_ and _secretario_, the
+latter an intelligent fellow, who told us that the town was dwindling,
+numbering at present but 80 _contribuentes_. He ordered a capital dinner
+for us of chicken, fried bananas, eggs, _frijoles, tortillas_ and
+coffee. Though the _secretario_ was intelligent, the _presidente_ was
+otherwise. He was good-natured, but a fool. With pride he frequently
+remarked, "_yo soy presidente_" (I am president). Then he whispered
+and mumbled, kissed my hand, assumed an air of great intelligence, and
+walked off with a peculiar tottering movement. These performances
+took place not once or twice, but every time the official made his
+appearance. Having fed us, the _secretario_ disappeared, and did no more
+for us. While waiting for him, our attention was attracted by a curious
+drumming noise. It was due to women who were beating cotton. At the
+first house we visited we found three women all busily occupied. An old
+woman sitting in the doorway was spinning thread; a second, somewhat
+younger woman with a baby in a blanket on her back, sitting on the
+ground, was weaving cloth; a third woman sat, with a great cushion of
+moss in a bag of matting on the ground before her, over which was spread
+a deer-skin on which was laid raw cotton, which she briskly beat with
+beaters made of five or six divergent sticks fastened together at one
+end. Such beating sticks are called _mapaho_; one is held in each hand,
+and the beating is briskly done, alternately with one and the other; the
+beating is intended to spread the raw cotton into a thin and even sheet
+before it is spun into thread. Returning to the town-house, we began our
+work, but were soon interrupted. The town is situated on a slope over
+which the houses are scattered. From the porch of the municipal house
+where we sat, we could see several huts upon the slope above. Groups of
+women and children gathered on the little terraces before the houses to
+look down upon us at our work. The _presidente_ and other officials had
+gone to bring us subjects, when we heard an outcry upon one of these
+terraces. A man cried out to the officials; struggled, apparently with
+a woman, then fell. The police rushed up the path. A moment later a
+surging crowd of a dozen persons were struggling together with cries and
+shouts. In spite of the commands of the _segundo secretario_, we started
+for the scene of the disturbance, but long before we reached the spot,
+met a big _topil_ with his head cut open and blood streaming down his
+face, soaking his garments. His arm was thrown around another man's
+neck, whose wrist he held, dragging him thus a prisoner toward the jail.
+Two others followed, holding a bad-looking little man between them. The
+two had fought, and when the _topil_ tried to take them, the little man,
+seizing a rock, split open his head. The two persons were thrust into
+the jail and a guard set. Great effort was made to find the stone with
+which the blow was dealt, in order that it might be used as evidence.
+The _secretario_ told the _topil_ not to staunch nor wash the wound.
+With natural curiosity, the _presidente_ and other men were clustered
+around the jail, looking in at the prisoners, when the _segundo
+secretario_ ordered them from the door.
+
+This man is a strange one. He is a Cuicatec, who married a Chinatec
+wife. He is little, but important. He ever carries a queer old sword.
+When he first appeared before us, he impressively said, "_No tengas
+cuidado_" (Have no care.) He told us that our comfort and our orders
+should be cared for, even though we were in a pueblo of mere brutes,
+unreasoning beings; he should charge himself and the officials with our
+needs. There were scarce three hours of daylight in the afternoon, and
+night set in chilly and damp. Meantime, the _secretario_, the _segundo_,
+the _presidente_ and the _topils_, all had disappeared. In vain we urged
+that arrangements should be made for fuel, for beds, and for a _mozo_,
+whom we had ordered should be supplied to accompany the man from Papalo
+back to that town with the horses. It was now dark and late, with no
+sign of attention to our wishes. Through the darkness, we picked our way
+over a muddy road, slippery and soaked with water, to the _secretario's_
+house, where we forcibly made known our wishes, and said that attention
+must be paid to them. Before we got back to the town-house our shoes
+were soaked with water and heavy with mud, while our clothing was soaked
+through with moisture from the air filled with mist and drizzling rain;
+and this in the midst of the dry season!
+
+During the afternoon, we had seen a curious-looking indian, dressed in
+a red flannel shirt, white drawers and a cap, but with the regular red
+Chinantec neck-cloth. He was a Mixtec from San Francisco Huitzo, who is
+in charge of the well-kept little coffee _finca_ which we passed upon
+the road. He showed us a bottle of coffee essence of his manufacture. It
+was a heavy, oily, clear liquid which I understood he had distilled from
+a weaker and darker coffee extract. It was exceedingly strong, and was
+supposed to be used for making coffee, a small quantity of the essence
+being put into a cup with hot water and sugar. He desired us to test
+this, but a look at it was quite sufficient. He was a handy fellow, and
+did much to hasten the fulfillment of our orders. Under his direction,
+sleeping mats were brought, and he, himself, served our supper, when
+finally it was ready. We were so tired that directly after supper we
+laid down upon the mats spread on the damp earthen floor. We had hoped
+to start our man from Papalo back with our horses early; the officials
+had promised that the _mozo_ to accompany him should be ready; but, of
+course, neither breakfast nor _mozo_ was to be seen. So we again started
+for the _secretario's_ house. The _secretario_ himself was lying drunk
+in bed, and the _segundo_ was almost as bad. In vigorous words I made
+known my dissatisfaction. The _segundo_, with his sword in one hand
+and _tortillas_ in the other, almost too drunk to walk, led us to the
+town-house and summoned the people before him. He thundered forth his
+orders: "You dogs, children of a degraded race! Wretched brutes! What
+do you mean? Why are you not bringing in breakfast for these gentlemen?
+Eggs, _tortillas, frijoles_, chicken? Why are you not supplying them?
+Obey his order. Fulfill your duty. You hear? If you do not fulfill your
+duty, you shall be punished. Hear and obey at once." Under this impulse
+the men started and breakfast was soon disposed of.
+
+Work being slack, the boys went bird-hunting. Manuel fetched in a _rara
+avis_, a little old man of 95 years, who had an extra thumb on his right
+hand. Notwithstanding the small population of the town, there were three
+cases of extra digits. In addition to this old man with his extra thumb,
+two persons in the town each had an extra toe upon one foot. We have
+already stated that the _presidente_ of the village was a fool. He had
+plenty of companions. One of the men, who made himself quite useful to
+us was an imbecile; he crossed himself, kissed our hands, nodded his
+head, and told us the most surprising things in regard to the subjects
+whom he brought before us. In connection with each case he cried and
+carried on at a great rate, and finally insisted that he was going to
+bring me a raw egg as an offering of friendship, which he did. One of
+his subjects was his cousin, who was both idiotic and a deaf-mute. My
+impression was that there were several cases of deaf-mutism in the
+village. One man, whenever any of our party spoke to him, or in any way
+turned our attention to him, piously and vigorously crossed himself,
+grimaced and gesticulated as if in a fit. One man, who seemed
+exceptionally intelligent, after he had seen us make a plaster bust of
+one of his townfellows, stated with great delight, that it was an idol,
+representing Jesus Christ, and that we were going to use it in the
+church. Unlike any other indian town we have visited, there is not even
+the pretence of an open school in this place. Nowhere else have women
+and children showed so great a fear of us and our work. From the moment
+that I showed an interest in the _mapaho_, the beating of cotton ceased,
+and the village was quiet. At no time during our stay did women or
+children come to the town-house. Shortly after sending back our horses
+to Papalo, we found that there were no animals for riding in San Juan
+Zautla. Fortunately, our next point, San Pedro, was but two leagues
+distant, and rather than wait until animals could be brought from
+Cuicatlan, we decided to walk. The night before we were to leave, we
+made arrangements for our carriers. The _secretario_ had set the price
+at two _reales_ a man; four were ordered, and an early hour set for the
+departure. When the time came, our men were in open rebellion. They
+refused to go upon the journey. We told the town officials that, if
+these men failed us, they themselves must do the work. The men were
+really scared, and stated that the people of San Pedro had threatened to
+kill us all, if we came to their town. In vain we argued--they were sure
+that the whole party were going to their doom. For such a paltry sum
+no man would risk his life. At last, however, the officials decreed
+obedience, and our party started. At first we led the company and the
+carriers came behind. The road led straight down the mountain-side to a
+brook, and then up the opposite side to the summit, just beyond which
+lay our goal. As we started, he who had recognized the bust of Jesus
+insisted upon accompanying us a way for friendship, and on the journey
+made various wise remarks regarding the busts. Hardly had we started
+when our men again rebelled; they would not make the journey for the
+price agreed upon, the risk was too great; they must be paid more,
+if they went at all. I felt that patience had ceased to be a virtue.
+Telling them that we would no longer go ahead, we ordered them to take
+up their burdens and precede us, at the same time threatening to shoot
+them, if they stopped without permission. After marching along in this
+new order for a time, they indicated a desire to parley. They would
+carry their burdens to the foot of the hill, where they would leave them
+by the brook-side. We could then go on to the village of San Pedro
+and send back carriers to bring them. To this proposition we gave no
+encouragement. The descent was abrupt. At the bottom was a fine brook,
+with a hanging bridge of vines swinging from tree to tree across it.
+Here we stopped to drink the fresh cool water, cut some sugar-canes,
+catch butterflies, and take views. One of the trees from which the vines
+hung was a perfect mass of ferns, orchids and bromelias of many kinds.
+On the great slope back of us, toward the gap through which the brook
+had broken, were great cliffs of massive rock; otherwise the whole
+mountain slope was a sheet of richest green. The ascent was long and
+difficult, and the party went slowly, with many rests. It was amusing,
+how, even at this distance, as we mounted the slope, we could hear the
+constant beating of the _mapaho_ in the village behind us, as if in
+rejoicing at our departure. As we neared the summit, our carriers again
+made signals of a desire to converse. They would fulfill their whole
+duty, and would carry their burdens to the town-house in San Pedro, but
+would we have the kindness, from here on, to take the lead? Oh, yes, we
+answered, we would take the lead, and they should see that nothing would
+happen. No one would harm us; we were not about to die.
+
+To make a favorable impression, we asked for a drink of water at the
+first house we came to, and passed a greeting with the few men, women
+and children whom we met on our way into town. The greater part of the
+population was at church, where we found a service in progress, and we
+were obliged to wait until it was over before we saw the town
+officials. I told the _secretario_ to summon the town government to the
+municipal-house, which was a small affair, no more than 15 or 18 by 20
+feet, with walls of lashed poles and a palm roof. A narrow bench ran
+around the four sides, and two tables, one long and one short one, set
+at right angles, occupied the greater portion of the open space. A long
+wide bench was placed alongside of the larger. At one end there was a
+_santo_, in a little shrine decorated with flowers and leaves. A little
+fire was built upon the floor, over which wax was melting, in which
+candles were being dipped.
+
+The _secretario_ chanced to be a man whom I had met at Cuicatlan the
+year before. He recalled our work, and taking us to his own house, we
+soon had an excellent dinner. He seemed to be well-to-do, and had
+two houses built of slabs lashed vertically together. Nets full of
+_jicaras_, great stacks of corn neatly laid out, good tableware in
+quantity, and a kerosene-lamp, all were evidences of his wealth. We
+ate at a good table, in the house, where the corn was stored. The most
+astonishing thing, however, in the house was an old-fashioned piano,
+long beyond use. How it was ever brought over the mountains to this
+village is a wonder. When we asked him, what we were to pay for the
+dinner, he replied, nothing; that we would begin to pay later. The
+impression made upon us by San Pedro was more agreeable than that
+produced by Zautla. The town government is large and vigorous,
+comprising a dozen well-built young fellows. On account of the church
+festival, plenty of subjects had been brought together. We did not
+understand what the _secretario_ expected, and therefore took up our
+quarters at the town-house. We paid dearly for our misunderstanding. We
+waited long for supper, but none came. The _presidente_ and the older
+men were at church. The _secretario_ was nowhere to be found. While we
+were waiting, the young fellows who were making candles, and a crowd of
+boys, crouched about the fire and watched the work. Presently they lay
+down a couple of _serapes_ on the floor, and the whole group, eighteen
+or twenty in number, dropped down upon them, a perfect mass of humanity,
+packed close together in the most curiously twisted attitudes, and were
+fast asleep in no time. They had no covering, but seemed to keep each
+other warm. After they were fast asleep, some of the other men appeared,
+and we urged the bringing in of supper. A handful of _tortillas_ and two
+fried eggs were not a hearty meal for six hungry persons, nor were our
+sleeping accommodations satisfactory. With difficulty we got some mats,
+and I lay down upon the smaller table, Frank on the larger, Louis and
+Manuel rolled up on the ground below the latter, and Ramon and the
+_mozo_ on the long bench. Half a dozen of the older men remained sitting
+about the fire. It can be understood that the room was fairly full. The
+men made no pretense of sleeping until past ten o'clock, and two or
+three times during the night they broke out into loud conversation.
+
+[Illustration: CHINANTEC GIRL SPINNING; SAN JUAN ZAUTLA]
+
+[Illustration: CHINANTEC WEAVING; SAN JUAN ZAUTLA]
+
+Just outside the town-house, under a thatched shelter, a group of old
+women were cooking _atole_ in great _ollas_ until a late hour. This
+gruel they ladled out to those men and boys who had been working, and
+doled out to them drinks from black bottles. The men and boys, with
+their red head-cloths or neck-cloths, went forth from time to time in
+groups upon some public errand. Towards evening, eight or ten little
+fellows came from the forest with bundles of firewood upon their heads
+and great _machetes_ hanging at their sides. In the morning, the same
+group of youngsters came in loaded with bunches of green leaves and
+holly to be used in decorating the church. At eight o'clock there was a
+procession in the churchyard; the saint, dressed in flowing garments,
+was carried about, accompanied by banners and a band of music. During
+the festival, everyone drank; even the little boys of eight or nine
+years, who brought in their loads of wood, received their spirits, which
+they drank like old topers. There was no evidence of bad temper as a
+result of this drinking, but an increasing stupidity. When, in the
+morning, we found our breakfast to consist of nothing but coffee, we
+realized our mistake of the night before, and promptly betook ourselves
+to the house of the _secretario_, where we spent the following day. The
+demands of the church during the day were so heavy that we did little
+work. The day itself was dark and dismal. In the late morning the
+boys brought in great loads of poinsettia, from which they fashioned
+brilliant rosettes and garlands for the church. At night, a wooden
+platform was brought in for a bed, upon which Louis, Manuel and I slept,
+while the others made a bed of broad boards upon the floor. Being behind
+with his developing, Louis set to work as soon as the lights were out,
+and kept at it until half-past-one. Scarcely had he come to bed and
+promptly fallen asleep, when there was a pounding at the door, which was
+almost immediately after broken in. Rising, I called out to see what was
+wanted, and four or five indians, all very drunk, came staggering in.
+The oldest of the party carried a great _machete_, and one of them
+closely hugged a bottle full of spirits. After begging pardon for
+disturbing us, they built a smoky fire, near the drying negatives.
+Fearing that their drunken movements and the smoke would work disaster,
+I made them change their place of rest and fire, moving them to the
+other end of the room. There they built another fire, and, before
+morning, they had consumed three bottles of spirits. What with the
+firelight and smoke, the noisy laughter, the loud talking and constant
+movement, it was impossible for me to sleep. Only for a single hour,
+when they fell back upon the floor in drunken slumber, and their fire
+burned down, did I get a bit of rest. If seems that they were an
+official guard put to watch the town store of grain which was kept in
+the building, and which was subject to the depredations of animals.
+During the following day we completed our work upon Chinantecs. The type
+is one of the best marked. In the child, the nose is wide, flat at
+the tip, with a straight or even concave bridge; the eyes are widely
+separated and often oblique; the mouth is large, the lips thick and the
+upper lip projects notably beyond the lower; the face is wide, and
+flat at the cheek-bones. With age, this type changes, the nose becomes
+aquiline, and of moderate breadth, the upper lip becomes less prominent,
+the skin lightens.
+
+For two days more, days of darkness, rain and cold that penetrated to
+the marrow, we remained prisoners in the village, waiting for the horses
+for which we had sent the day of our arrival. It was impossible to make
+photographs, nor was it feasible to look around the town, or into the
+adjoining country. The _secretario_, indeed, showed us the way in which
+spirits are distilled from the sap of sugar-cane, and we had ample
+opportunity to examine the dress of the people and the mode of weaving.
+All the women dress in garments of home-woven cotton, and the red
+head-cloths, so characteristic a feature of the dress of men and boys,
+are woven here from thread already dyed, bought in other places. The
+little figures of animals or birds or geometrical designs worked in
+them in green or yellow worsted are woven in, at the time of making the
+cloths, with bright bits of wool.
+
+At last our animals appeared. They had been sent from Papalo, and we
+made arrangements, as we supposed, for using them through to Cuicatlan.
+The animals arrived at 9:30 in the morning and the _mozo_ with them
+reported that the roads were bad from the constant rains of the past
+several days. We decided to leave that afternoon, stopping at Zautla for
+the night, and then, making an early start, to push through in a single
+day. The _presidente, alcalde_, and other town officials accompanied us
+to the border of the village, where they bade us adieu, begging for
+a _real_ for drink. As we left, the sky was clear and the mists were
+rising from the valleys. For the first time we gained some idea of the
+beauty of the country all around us. The houses of the town are well
+built, with walls of poles or narrow slabs neatly corded together in a
+vertical position. The roofs are thatched with palm; they pitch
+sharply from a central ridge and the ends pitch also from the ridge in
+independent slopes. The top is crested with a comb of thatch, neatly
+applied. Off to the right from the village lay a magnificent valley,
+with massive rock walls clad with green forest. The low masses of clouds
+and great banks of mist but emphasized the impression made by those
+parts of the scene that were visible. Soon we had passed the ridge and
+looked down again into the Zautla valley. The road was not as bad as
+we had anticipated. As we made our upward climb, we found that the
+flame-colored orchids, few when we last passed that way, were out in
+quantity. They are a terrestrial species, and the colors are a beautiful
+combination of flame-red with chrome-yellow. The other day only the
+outer and lower flowers of the racemes were blown, but on this occasion
+the whole cluster was in bloom. We noticed strikingly, what had before
+suggested itself to us, that through this district flowers of certain
+colors mass themselves together. Thus, on this slope, the hundreds of
+bunches of flame-colored orchids were rivalled by clusters of a tubular
+flower perhaps an inch in length, of almost the same hues. Along the
+glen-road near Tepanapa all sorts of flowers seemed to be pink or
+flesh-colored, while along the jungle-bank, near the coffee plantation,
+everything was blue or purple. When we reached Zautla, neither the
+_presidente_, the _secretario_ nor the _segundo_ was in town. The big
+_topil_, whose head was healing, did the honors of the place. We had
+intended to make an early start, but it was half past six before we
+mounted and were on our way. Going back over the old road, we soon
+reached the little coffee _finca_ in charge of our Mixtec friend, and
+here we left the familiar trail, for what our guide insisted was a
+better one. We struck up and up and up the slope to avoid little ravines
+which he assured us were very bad. At last, when it was certain that he
+had completely lost his way, we started down into the forest. For a time
+we followed a bad and disused trail, but soon even this disappeared, and
+we tore our way through the tropical vegetation as best we could. Often
+the men had to cut the way with their _machetes_; sometimes we slid for
+yards over the wet mud; frequently our heads were caught by hanging
+vines, and faces and hands were scratched with brambles. When at last
+we came out upon a cleared space, we found ourselves at the Chinantec
+village of Santa Maria. Perhaps there were four houses in the village.
+Our appearance caused great excitement. Our pack-animals bade fair to
+destroy the maize and other plantings in the field. In the trail were
+oxen, which had to be gotten out of our way for fear of being driven to
+frenzy by our mere passing. They assured us that we were on the road to
+Tepanapa, so we completed the descent to the brooklet and started up a
+trail which at any time would have been steep, stony, slippery, all at
+once. We were compelled, finally, to dismount and lead our animals;
+Frank, before he did so, tumbled his horse three times down the bank. At
+one place two of the horses fell together in a struggling mass, and for
+a moment things looked serious. All the animals but my own fell, at
+least once, before we reached the summit. From there, it was an easy
+ride over a level district until we were in sight of Tepanapa, which, by
+sunlight, presented a most attractive appearance. The houses are spread
+over a gentle slope, to the very edge of a little _barranca_. Each had
+a little enclosure, with a group of banana plants. Butterflies of
+brilliant hues lazily flew about, and a few birds uttered their
+characteristic cries. We could not, however, delay. Before us lay a
+tremendous ascent; the first part, which we had passed after dusk, we
+found rougher than we realized; rock masses here were covered with a
+thick cushion of brilliant crimson moss, a kind of sphagnum. The gully
+trail had not been improved by the recent rains, and it taxed our
+animals severely to reach the summit. Arrived in the district of the
+trees loaded with beards of golden-yellow moss, we caught a magnificent
+view back over the valley. With one sweep of the eyes, we could almost
+follow our whole round of wandering. The ridges on which lay San Juan
+Zautla and San Pedro Soochiapan both were in sight, as were the valleys
+in which Santa Maria and Tepanapa lay. But the only actual feature which
+we could see and recognize was the little coffee _finca_ this side of
+Zautla. The combination of green mountains, blue ridges and bare rock
+cliffs was grand. Here our road forked, and at this point we had a
+moment's excitement. We met an old indian man with a baby tied upon his
+back, and his old wife, carrying a burden, followed after. Before them a
+black bull was calmly walking. The moment the old man saw us, he waved
+his arms and cried out, in great excitement, "_Toro, muy bravo_!" (Bull,
+very fierce!) and hastened forward to catch the lasso wound round the
+horns of the beast to lead him out of our way. Just then the bull took
+matters into his own control, and, with a snort and plunge, started
+wildly away, dragging the old fellow at a wild run down the trail,
+finally whirling him and the baby into a heap by the roadside, while he
+himself took up the mountain-side. It was after dark before we reached
+Papalo.
+
+After much grumbling, supper was prepared and a solemn promise given
+that we should leave at seven in the morning. When we were ready, no
+animals were to be seen. The _presidente_ asserted that the price which
+we had paid was only to that point, and that if we wanted animals for
+Cuicatlan we must make a new arrangement. This was sheer blackmail,
+because there had been no misunderstanding in the matter, and a liberal
+price had been paid. After wrangling for an hour, we shook the dust
+of Papalo literally from our feet, and started to walk to Cuicatlan,
+telling the town authorities that our burdens must be taken by _mozos_
+to the _cabecera_ before three o'clock, and that we should pay nothing
+for the service. Probably we should not have been so ready to take this
+heroic action if we had not remembered that the road was down hill all
+the way, and good walking. Still, fifteen miles is fifteen miles, and
+the sun was hot, and though we left at 8:30, it was two o'clock before
+we entered Cuicatlan. We had no adventures by the way, except the
+killing of a coral snake which lay in the middle of the road. At three
+the _mozos_ with their burdens arrived, and felt it very hard that we
+kept our promise of paying nothing for their service.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVIII
+
+TO COIXTLAHUACA
+
+(1900)
+
+
+For a day we rested at Cuicatlan to make arrangements for a trip to
+the land of the Chochos. We complained bitterly to the _jefe politico_
+regarding the miserable animals which had been supplied us for our last
+journey, and demanded something better.
+
+Frank had had enough of practical anthropology, and left us, so there
+were but four to be provided. At eight o'clock the following morning,
+four decent horses and two pack animals were waiting at our door. A
+mounted _arriero_ was in charge, to accompany us. Although he had been
+inefficient on the preceding journey, the same jail-bird was sent with
+us, as _mozo_, whom we had had before. At 8:30 our party of six persons
+started; passing the river, which we forded, an excellent road took us,
+for a league, over the sandy plain, which was fairly grown with trees,
+supplying a little shade. The great _pitahayas_ were in bloom, and their
+white flowers looked well against the ugly, stiff green branches. The
+roadside was bordered with _acacias_ which, in full bloom, presented
+masses of golden balls and perfumed the air with their delicate odor.
+Passing a considerable sugar _hacienda_, the trail struck into the
+mountains, and for three hours we made a steady ascent. The road itself
+was excellent but the sun beat down with fearful force, and the heat
+was reflected from the bare road and the rock cliffs along which we
+travelled. At one place the vegetation consisted of a curious mixture of
+gigantic cactuses, rising as single stalks as high as telegraph poles
+but larger in diameter, and palms. Arriving at the crest, we saw a long
+plain stretching before us, presenting a mingled growth of palms and
+pines. At the very border of the ridge stood a hut of poles, where we
+stopped to drink _tepache_ and to eat broiled chicken which we had
+brought with us. We found the old woman, an indian--neither Cuicatec,
+Chinantec, Mixtec, nor Zapotec, as we might expect--but a full Aztec
+from Cordoba. She was bright and shrewd, and, as we chatted with her,
+we noticed a little chicken a few days old awkwardly running about with
+curiously deformed feet. Upon my noticing it, the old lady remarked that
+the moon made it so. I inquired what she meant. She said, "Yes, we
+know it is the moon which shapes the bodies of all young animals." We
+followed the road a long distance over the hot plain, passing San Pedro
+Jocotepec to our left, and shortly after, struck up the mountain side
+and had another long and steady climb, until, at last, we reached the
+crest of all the district. Here and there, we encountered bits of
+limestone, which always, in this southern country, makes the worst
+roads for travel. The rain erodes it into the oddest of forms, leaving
+projecting ridges almost as sharp as knife-edges, with irregular hollows
+pitting the surface, so that it forms a most insecure and unpleasant
+foot-hold for the animals. Not only so, but the surface, rough as it is,
+is frequently as polished as glass, and, whether wet or dry, is slippery
+to the tread. Walking over these jagged surfaces of limestone is
+destructive to any shoes. A single afternoon of this will do more wear
+than a month of ordinary use. Troublesome as these limestones are, as
+roads, they are ever interesting, because the masses by the roadside
+present the most astonishing and beautiful forms of waterwear; upon a
+mass eight or ten feet across, there will be worn a system of ridges
+and intervening channels, which, in miniature, seems to reproduce the
+orographic features of the whole country.
+
+[Illustration: WOMEN WITH BABIES; SAN JUAN ZAUTLA]
+
+[Illustration: CAIRN, ON ROAD TO COIXTLAHUACA]
+
+While we were passing over one of these limestone stretches, a little
+before reaching the summit, we found a spot of unusual difficulty. The
+two pack animals were together, one tied to the tail of the other; the
+second had several times acted badly, but in passing over this bit of
+road, he jumped and plunged, so that his pack loosened and slid to one
+side. Plunging, kicking, and falling, he dragged down the unfortunate
+beast to whose tail he was tied; the old rope tugged and creaked, and,
+for a moment, we expected to see the very tail of the forward animal
+pulled out, and both packs destroyed by the struggling beasts.
+Fortunately, at this moment, the rope itself broke. The forward
+animal was loosened and quickly quieted; but the other one kicked and
+struggled, with our load of plates and developing trays under him.
+Quickly cutting the ropes that held the burden, we tried to release the
+animal, but it lay exhausted, and, for a moment, we thought it dead.
+Really, however, it was not hurt at all, and the loads themselves
+appeared undamaged. The burdens having been repacked, we again started
+on the journey. At several places on this road, we had noticed cairns,
+or heaps of pebbles. On inquiring from Don Manuel--the funny little
+man, who had the animals in charge--we learned that every Chocho indian
+passing the place adds a pebble to the heap, to secure good luck and
+insure his safe return home. At the summit, we found one of these piles
+of stone surmounted by a cross, and learned that when the Chochos reach
+this spot, they always stop, repeat a prayer, and dance for good health
+and fortune before the cross. It was now almost dark. Soon we saw the
+downward slope, at the foot of which Huauhtla lay. We hastened down
+the slope, passing through a grove of oak trees, heavily loaded with
+bromelias; at the foot of the slope, we crossed a stream of clearest
+water, bordered with handsome cypress trees, and passing several houses,
+came to the one where we planned to stop for the night. It was now dark.
+There was no opportunity for sleeping in the hut, and so we prepared
+to lie down outside. The people in the house prepared _tortillas_ and
+beans, and, after eating, we rolled up in our blankets and lay down on
+some dried corn-husks on the ground. It was a night of suffering; the
+cold was so great that our blankets furnished no protection, and the
+place swarmed with fleas innumerable. At last, at four o'clock, two
+hours before sunrise, we started on our journey in the hope of getting
+warm. The air was damp and heavy, and, until the sun rose, we had
+a desolate journey. We were again upon a limestone district, with
+interesting features of scenery, and with few difficulties in the road.
+We passed many oblong hills of limestone, the horizontal layers of which
+upon the slopes present tiers of steps, one behind the other. These
+hills were astonishingly overgrown with trees, and formed masses of
+the darkest green. There was a great deal of subterranean water, and
+sink-holes produced by caving over such streams were frequent. The soil
+generally was a residual red or brownish clay. Flocks of gray pigeons
+were startled from their roosts by our passing; and little doves were
+plentiful; great hawks and small eagles were seen in pairs, hovering
+high in the air. We passed several little ranches, to one of which the
+name of El Zapato is given from a foot-print which is said to be painted
+on the rocks at that point. Finally, we saw before us the hill behind
+which, Don Manuel assured us, lay Coixtlahuaca. To mount and drop down
+behind it seemed a simple thing, but we had to traverse the whole length
+of the rather irregular ridge, which seemed interminable. The road which
+led up to it was called the Rio Blanca--white river--an appropriate
+name, as it was broad and deeply worn into the soft rock of which the
+ridge consisted. When we reached the crest, we found the ridge extending
+as a flat plain of light, buff-colored tufa, with many trails worn
+deeply into it, and giving out, under the bright sunshine, a frightful
+reflection of light and heat. Long before we reached the end of this
+dreary stretch, we saw Coixtlahuaca and its adjoining indian villages,
+Nativitas and San Cristobal. As we drew nearer, the view was striking.
+The town is broad, but of little depth; its streets are laid out with
+regularity; its great church, with masses of ruin on either side, is
+conspicuous; the _plaza_ is large for the size of the town. To one side
+of it are the _portales_ and the town-house and _jefatura_. To the
+right of the town and behind it is a large, walled cemetery with many
+gravestones. Back of all, rise hills of tufa, such as we had just
+traversed. The houses, similar to those at Huautla, and in the country
+between there and here, appear to be constructed with a view to cold.
+At least, two houses usually occur in one inclosure; the one, more
+important, corresponds to the god-house of the Aztecs and the other
+to the cook-house. The former is better built, and has low, carefully
+constructed walls, and a high abruptly four-pitched, heavily thatched
+roof. Going to the _jefatura_, the young clerk there was much impressed
+by the documents we presented, and asked us if we would accompany him to
+the _jefe's_ house, as thus no time would be lost. Upon arriving at the
+house of the _jefe_, we found that a wedding was about to be celebrated
+in the church. The _jefe_ received us with magnificent promises; we
+should room at the palace, arrangements should be made for boarding at
+a private house, beds and other proper furniture should be brought
+immediately, and the following day we should journey on horseback
+through all the indian towns of the vicinity. This was all very fine,
+but we told him that meantime we were hungry--we had eaten nothing since
+the night before and then had fared badly--and that we must unload our
+animals, which we had left with the rest of our company, standing in
+front of the palace. The unloading was done at once and we were given
+the schoolhouse for our quarters, at the rear of the _patio_ of the
+palace. At this moment, however, everything else was neglected for the
+wedding. This we all attended, and it was, indeed, an occasion. The
+bride in white, with veil and orange-blossoms, was accompanied by her
+mother, god-mother, and other female friends. She was really a pretty
+and wholesome indian girl, and the groom was a decent young _mestizo_,
+with gray wool sombrero, and linen jacket, cloth trousers, etc. He
+and his god-father were bustling about attending to all sorts of
+preliminaries. In the solemn procession which took place to the church,
+the company of ladies preceded; the _jefe_ and myself led the line of
+male friends, and, when we filed into the church, the building was
+fairly filled. The special friends, including our party, moved in
+procession to the high altar, where the ceremony was performed. The
+bridal company knelt with candles in their hands. Other candles, some of
+enormous size, were burning in various parts of the church. The priest,
+with much ceremony, gave the sacrament of the communion to the couple,
+and then fastened two golden chains, crossing, about both their necks.
+A scarf of satin was placed upon them so as to cover both, passing over
+the head of the woman, and the shoulders of the man. From the church,
+our procession, dwindled to the particular friends and guests of honor,
+walked through the village to the justice-court, where the civil
+ceremony was performed. The matter having been accomplished with full
+respect to the requirements of the law, we thought again of dinner. The
+_jefe_ told us that to-morrow we should go to our boarding-place, but
+that to-day we were to dine together in state. Time passed, hour after
+hour lagged by, until the _mozo_ and _arriero_ struck for money, with
+which to buy themselves something to eat. Meantime, we waited. Finally,
+at three o'clock in the afternoon, we were summoned, and the _jefe_,
+myself, and our companions, started down the hot, dusty, main street.
+On and on we walked, until, at last, the _jefe_ himself impatiently
+demanded of our guide how far we had to go. At last, we heard the
+strains of music, and, shortly, found ourselves in a yard crowded with
+people, among whom two bands of music were present, one with stringed
+instruments and the other with brass. It was the house of the bride, and
+after a moment's waiting in the yard, we were ushered, by the _jefe's_
+clerk, into the building. It had been cleared of all its contents and a
+long table, set in the middle, ran lengthwise of the place. Benches were
+placed beside it. A line of vases, filled with bouquets, occupied the
+middle of the table and between these were bottles of wine, _catalan,
+mescal, pulque, tepache_, beer, etc. The ladies were already seated; we
+took the remaining seats. The company consisted of the bride and groom,
+their parents, god-parents, families, and particular friends. And then,
+we had a dinner which amply compensated for the thirty-six hours through
+which we had been fasting--good bread, soup, stews, broiled meat, _mole,
+mole prieto_, chicken, beans, sweetmeats, coffee, with the beverages
+before mentioned. Dishes, when they came in, were politely passed across
+the table to the ladies opposite; no one ate till all were served, and
+when we were through, the place was cleared, and another room full of
+friends sat down to the bountiful repast. And then a third, and then
+a fourth, till everyone had feasted, even to the commonest, and the
+musicians, to whom abundance was carried after those invited in had
+eaten. Through all this lengthy feasting the bands of music alternated
+with each other. When all had eaten, the women quickly cleared the
+house, the tables were moved, and all the chairs of the neighborhood
+were set stiffly around the walls, after which dancing began, continuing
+through the night.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+After having eaten, we stepped outside to visit with the crowd. Among
+them, several drunken men showed special friendliness. One of these
+insisted upon showing us an idol, which, from his description, should
+have been a rather beautiful piece. It turned out to be a very
+crudely-made head, wrought in coarse, cellular lava. Considering the
+material, the work was really fine; nor was it a fragment broken from
+the body, as there had never been more than what we saw. From here, a
+yet more drunken _dulcero_ insisted on our going to his _dulceria_ and
+bake-shop, where he told us that he had a much finer piece. We found
+he really had an enormous head, made of coarse, but rather bright, red
+stone; it was another example of the same type of separate head, a type
+which must be characteristic of the district.
+
+Notwithstanding the fine promises, we found no beds or other furniture
+when we returned to our room. This was not, perhaps, surprising, in view
+of the excitement over the wedding, which might drive lesser matters out
+of the mind of the great official. With difficulty, we secured some mats
+from the chief of police, and made our beds with these upon the desks
+and benches of the school room. But, though we remained in Coixtlahuaca
+several days, no beds were forthcoming, though we referred to them often
+enough; nor did the private boarding-house materialize. We, however,
+found a little place in the village where we got plenty of good food
+cheaply. Nor did the ride on horseback through the neighboring villages,
+which had been so pleasantly suggested by the _jefe_, materialize.
+However, each day of our stay we were assured that all arrangements had
+been made for it to take place on the morrow.
+
+We have already mentioned the _plaza_ as large in proportion to the size
+of the town. On Sunday it was crowded, and while many things were bought
+and sold, the trade in _sombreros_ surpassed all others. This is a
+specialty of all the district; throughout the Chocho towns, they make an
+excellent grade of palm-hats and everyone engages in the making. Both
+men and women braid palm, and in every yard there is excavated in the
+soft, tufaceous rock, a _cueva_, or cave, in which they work. Here
+the palm is left between times, and here two persons generally work
+together, each braiding at a hat, while a little cross, cut in the
+rock-wall, looks down upon the work, for good luck. These caves have a
+narrow opening upward and are scarcely large enough to admit the two
+persons who sit at their work. The object of the cave is to keep the
+work moist, as the plaiting cannot be well done, if the palm dries out.
+
+The Monday we were there, the victory of February 5th was celebrated.
+The day began with music by the brass-band, from the roof of the
+_presidencia_. The band, a large one, consisted almost entirely of boys
+about fifteen years of age. Only the director and one among the players
+were men grown. At sunrise the national flag was raised, and at seven
+the church-bells were rung. Through the afternoon, games of ball and
+cock-fights furnished amusement. Among the crowd, at the house of the
+bride, we had met a little, stout man of about twenty-five or thirty
+years, who considered himself superior to the other people, and who
+variously attempted to make himself familiar. At several times during
+our measuring and bust-making, he had hung around, making smart remarks,
+but we had never invited him to submit to measure, as he did not seem to
+be a really full-blood indian. He had made a nuisance of himself, but,
+finally, one day, when he was standing in the crowd, which was looking
+on, he called my attention to a friend of his, remarking that here was
+a good subject. On calling this young man to be measured, we met with
+unexpected resistance. He was purely indian, short, well-dressed, and
+well-mannered, but he refused to be measured. We had had some little
+trouble with our subjects that afternoon, and therefore insisted that he
+should undergo the operation. He refused. Of course, the officials were
+on our side, and the police led him off to jail. When he saw that there
+was no escape, he consented to be measured, and they brought him back,
+under guard, until the operation was performed. So much feeling had been
+raised by the matter, that his foolish friend, to whose jocularity he
+owed the unpleasant experience, thought best himself to be measured.
+Accordingly measures were taken, although it was after dark, and a
+candle had to be used in reading. As our day's work was done, we
+returned to our room, making ready to go to supper. The crowd had
+departed. To our surprise, we found these foolish fellows at our door
+awaiting us. "Sir," they said, "we would speak with you a moment." Going
+aside with them, I asked their wishes. They then launched out, with
+weeping and groans and much wringing of hands, into a dreary tale. They
+were young teachers waiting for appointment; one of them had a little
+family; it would be a dreadful thing for them to be taken away and
+forced into the army. It was impossible to convince them that there was
+no harm in the matter. After long discussion and elaborate explanations,
+they cheered up somewhat, but insisted that I must go to the house of
+one of them, the one who had given trouble, to take _pulque_. We
+went, three abreast, each one of them taking one of my _brazitos
+queridos_--"beloved little arms;" as we went, they alternately indulged
+in admiring exclamations--"Ah, Severo, what a _maestro_! how fine a
+gentleman! how amiable! Say Manuelito, was there ever such a one." At
+the house, which was neat and clean, I met the mother and two little
+ones, who would be left behind in case Severo were forced to go into the
+army. Then the _pulque_ was brought in and sampled. As I was leaving to
+go to supper, they said, no, I must go to my room; they would accompany
+me. In vain I reminded them that my companions were waiting for me at
+the eating-place; I must be seen back to my very door, then I might go
+where I pleased; but with them I had gone forth, and until they saw me
+home again, they would be responsible for my person.
+
+Coixtlahuaca itself is largely a _mestizo_ town. But immediately in its
+neighborhood, and on its outskirts, are indian villages. All Chochos
+know Spanish, and but few talk their own language. There is little of
+interest in their life and nothing characteristic in their dress, which
+is that of _mestizos_ in general. But the physical type is well defined.
+The stature is small; the face is short and broad; the nose is wide and
+flat, with a fat, flattened tip; the hair is somewhat inclined to curl,
+especially on top behind.
+
+Despairing of the promised trip through the villages, we issued orders
+for our animals to be ready early one morning. Only after vigorous
+complaints and threats were they actually ready. The owner of the beast
+which I, myself, mounted went with us on foot, and a _mozo_ was supplied
+for carrying instruments. In spite of fair promises that we would
+leave at three, it was 4:40 before we started, though we had risen at
+half-past-two. Our _arriero_ was the best we ever had; far from
+sparing his good horse and grumbling at our speed, he was continually
+complaining at our slowness. "Why don't the boys want to go fast?" he
+would say. "Don't you want to get there at a good hour? Why do you go
+so slowly?" And then, striking the horse, he trotted along at wonderful
+speed. We reached Huautla at half-past-eight, stopping an hour to feed
+our horses and to eat beans and _tortillas_. We then pushed on down the
+slope, and out over the long ridge, passing the hut of our Cordoban
+Aztec woman. It was the hottest hour of the day when we descended the
+broad road, over the hot rocks, and saw Cuicatlan in the distance.
+Thanks to our _arriero_, we drew up at Dona Serafina's when it was but
+3:40 in the afternoon, having been upon the road eleven hours.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIX
+
+HUAUHTLA AND THE MAZATECS
+
+(1900)
+
+
+A short ride upon the train, through the hot and dusty valley, brought
+us to the miserable station of San Antonio, from which, we had been
+assured, a coach ran daily to Teotitlan del Camino; arrived at the
+station, no stage was in sight, and we were told that it sometimes came
+and sometimes not. Accordingly, leaving my companions at the station in
+care of the baggage, I walked to the village, half a mile away, to see
+what arrangements could be made for transportation. It was hot, and it
+seemed difficult to arouse interest on the part of the town authorities.
+Neither conveyance nor animals were to be had. Accordingly, a foot
+messenger was sent to Teotitlan, which is a _cabecera_, asking that some
+arrangement be made for transporting us. As there was no hurry, and it
+would be some time before we could receive an answer, I sat under the
+thatched roof in front of the town-house, resting and enjoying the
+little breeze which had sprung up. Suddenly the belated coach, itself,
+came into sight, bound for the station. Starting to mount, the driver
+told me it was better for me to remain sitting comfortably in the shade,
+and that he would pick up my companions, of whom, I told him, there
+were three, and that I could join the company, as they passed. As
+arrangements had already been made regarding the transportation of the
+baggage by mules, the advice seemed good, and I remained where I was. A
+long time passed, and when, at last, the coach arrived, it contained but
+one passenger, a dignified _licenciado_. When I asked the driver where
+my companions were, he answered that they had refused to come because
+I had sent no written order to that effect. I suggested that we should
+turn back and get them, but to this proposition he gave refusal. Not
+only so, but the _licenciado_ expressed vexation at the delay which he
+was suffering, and demanded that we should go on at once. Argument,
+persuasions, threats were all of no avail, and, as it was necessary that
+I should see the _jefe_ at the earliest possible moment, I was forced
+to mount the coach and leave my unfortunate and obedient companions to
+their fate. For an hour and a half the coach lumbered slowly over a hot
+and dusty road, which passed between small, bare, gray or brown rock
+hills, rising to a higher level only a little before we reached
+Teotitlan itself.
+
+Hastening to the _jefatura_, I discovered that the _jefe_ had gone to
+Mexico, leaving the _presidente_ of the town as his lieutenant. This man
+was neither willing, interested, nor efficient. He had little authority,
+even with his own policemen and townsmen. I requested that the first
+thing should be to send for my companions and bring them to town within
+the briefest time. Orders were sent by the policemen to the driver
+of the coach, that he should return at once to the station; to these
+orders, he sent the false reply that his coach had broken down, one
+wheel being completely ruined. After some wrangling and delay, the
+_presidente_ sent a foot-messenger to San Antonio with orders to the
+authorities of that village to supply three animals for the travellers.
+The messenger left at five in the evening. Meantime, we arranged with
+difficulty for beasts for our further journey. Although we were assured
+that no animals from the town could accompany us further than the first
+_ranchito_ in the mountains, named San Bernardino, they assured us that
+fresh animals could be obtained there for the remainder of the journey.
+Going to the regular hotel in the village, we found the prices higher
+than in Oaxaca or Puebla, and equal to those of a first-class hotel in
+Mexico itself. As the landlady seemed to have no disposition to do aught
+for us, we decided to look elsewhere. At a second so-called hotel we
+found a single bed. At this point, a bystander suggested that Don Pedro
+Barrios would probably supply us lodging; hastening to his house, I
+secured a capital room, opening by one door directly onto the main road,
+and by another, opposite, onto the large _patio_ of his place. The room
+was large and clean, and four good cots were soon in place. Having
+ordered supper at a little eating-house, for four persons, to be ready
+at seven o'clock, I spent a little time in looking at relics found
+in the neighborhood. Pottery figures and heads are quite common and
+frequently painted brilliantly; small heads and ornaments of green-stone
+are not uncommon; curious clubs of stone for beating bark-paper are also
+found; objects of gold and silver have been found in ancient graves,
+near the foot of the mountains, on the outskirts of the village. These
+were of curious forms and excellent workmanship, and included large
+ornaments for the ears and pendants for the neck, made of thin sheets of
+gold; turtles and human skulls cast in a single piece; and most curious
+of all, odd pieces of filigree where the gold-wire was coiled into
+strange human heads. One of these was made half of gold and half of
+silver wire.
+
+At seven, no sign of my companions had appeared. A policeman went to
+tell the keeper of the eating-house that we would eat at eight, and,
+putting my chair outside the open door, I sat in the cool air and
+watched the people passing in the moonlight. Eight o'clock came, and no
+companions. The supper hour was postponed to nine. Between nine and ten,
+Don Pedro and I talked over various matters, and at last, yielding to
+his solicitation, I went to supper, he promising to send my comrades in
+case they should arrive during my absence. I had just finished supper,
+at half-past ten, when my three hungry companions arrived, with big
+appetites for their own meals, and it was after eleven before the party
+was through its supper.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+They, themselves, had by no means spent a dull afternoon. The station
+agent and his lady wife had indulged in a vigorous battle. Both were
+drunk, shot revolvers recklessly, bit one another, tore hair, and
+clubbed most vigorously. The man finally took $6,000 in money out of the
+company's safe and left the station, vowing that he would never be seen
+again. Though the authorities at San Antonio had received the order to
+supply animals at six o'clock, it was after nine before they had the
+beasts ready for the travellers.
+
+After an excellent night's rest we started our pack-animals, and
+were ourselves ready for the journey at nine, when we found that no
+arrangements had been made for a foot _mozo_ to carry our instruments.
+This again caused delay and trouble, but at last we were upon the road,
+and started out through the little village towards the mountains. My
+animal appeared a beast of vigor and spirit, and my hope ran high. The
+moment, however, that we struck the climb, matters changed. He then
+stopped every few yards, breathing as if it were his last gasp. This he
+kept up for the whole ascent, and there seemed doubt whether he would
+ever reach the summit. For a long distance, the road followed the side
+of a gorge in which a fine brook plunged and dashed. We passed and
+repassed picturesque groups of Mazatec indians with their burdens. The
+women wore _enaguas_, the lower part of which was brown, the upper
+white. Their _huipilis_ are among the most striking we have seen, being
+made of native cotton, decorated with elaborate embroidered patterns of
+large size, in pink or red. The favorite design is the eagle. Men wore
+_cotones_ of black or dark blue wool. We had been riding steadily for
+two hours before we reached San Bernardino, where the _mozos_ and pack
+animals were changed, and where we rested for a few minutes. We then
+rode for a long time, gently ascending through forests of pine or oak.
+Here and there the air-plants on the oak trees were notable. Finally, we
+mounted to a road along a narrow ridge, like a knife's edge, and from
+here on had one of the most remarkable roads that I have ever travelled.
+Keeping continuously upon the crest, we had upon the one side the dry
+slope, with the pine forest, and on the other the damp slope, densely
+grown with low oaks, heavily clad with orchids and bromelias and
+weighted with great bunches of gray moss. The road passed up and down
+gentle and abrupt slopes separated by level spaces. When we first caught
+sight of Huauhtla it looked so near, and the road to be traversed was so
+plain, that we expected to reach the town before three o'clock; but the
+trail proved drearily long. True, the scenery was magnificent. The great
+mass of mountains; curious ridges extending out from their flanks; the
+multitude of horizontal, parallel long roads following these; the little
+towns, San Geronimo, San Lucas--all were attractive. From the great
+slope opposite Huauhtla, the view of the town was most impressive.
+Before us opened a narrow valley, the depth of which we only realized
+after we had traversed it. An hour and a half was necessary for making
+the descent and the up-climb. From the point whence we were looking, the
+church, town-house, and clustered houses of the village were above us.
+Below stretched a line of _nublina_, and beneath it the whole great
+mountain flank was checkered with the irregular brown and green fields
+belonging to the villagers. It was already five o'clock when we began
+the descent from this fine view-point, and, on our way down the slope
+and up the opposite slope to the village, we met great numbers of
+drunken indians,--as it was Sunday,--usually a man and woman together.
+Two of the men we met had been fighting, and were covered with blood;
+the face of one of them was livid with the blows which he had received.
+Many of the parties were noisy and quarrelsome, and some of them showed
+a tendency to meddle with us, as we passed.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The greater portion of the journey had been over fine, dry roads; after
+we reached the knife-edge ridge, however, whenever there was a descent
+or ascent, we found the road of clay, moist and slippery; in the rainy
+season these bits would be bad enough. At this time of year they are due
+to the _nublina_, great masses of which we saw from the time we reached
+the crest-road, and, at times, we passed through great sheets of it
+which cut off all view and which soaked our clothing. Upon our last
+descent and ascent, we were almost discouraged, and the last half-hour
+of our journey was made by the light of the moon, struggling through
+_nublina_. Though it was dark, when we reached the village, we were
+impressed with the fineness of the municipal-house, the best constructed
+we have seen in an indian town. Its location, near the edge of the
+mountain slope, giving a magnificent outlook over the great valley, is
+very fine. The houses of the Mazatecs are picturesque. The walls are
+built of mud, or slabs or posts daubed with mud, while the roofs are
+thatched with palm. The ridge pole extends, at both ends, in projections
+which themselves are thatched, forming curious and striking horns. This
+same mode of thatch, picturesque in the extreme, is also used above the
+little granaries which are raised, on poles, several feet above the
+ground, in order to keep the contents from the attacks of animals.
+Huauhtla is a large town. The village and its immediate dependencies
+have a population of 7000. Until lately the town was jealous of visits
+from outside, and little inclined to hospitality towards travellers. If
+this were formerly true, it has ceased to be so. We were received most
+heartily; the large and enthusiastic town government, after learning our
+errand, expressed their willingness to aid us in every way. They at once
+cleared a fine large room in the town-house for our occupancy, prepared
+four beds of boards covered with _petates_, and brought from the
+priest's house, hard by, blankets, sheets, and pillows for my own use.
+Arrangements were also made for our eating with the priest, Padre
+Manzano, with whom we fared in truly regal fashion. In the days we
+stayed at Huauhtla, there were no delays in our work and everything went
+in orderly fashion. It is true, our subjects for busts were an awkward
+and trying lot. The first subject broke the back-piece of the mould
+to fragments, and, when the plaster was being applied to his face,
+he opened his mouth and talked, opened his eyes, and drew out his
+nose-tubes, with the result that eyes, nose and mouth were all filled
+with the soft mixture, and it was all that we could do to clean him
+without damage. As for trying to take his bust again, that was quite
+out of the question. The second subject was all right, until the last
+application had been made, when he turned in the partly hardened mould
+with truly disastrous results. The third one acted so awkwardly that a
+piece of mould, which should have come off singly, was taken off in ten
+fragments.
+
+The dress of the Mazatec women is elaborate and striking, both _enagua_
+and _huipil_ being made from the cotton woven by themselves. At the
+base of the _enagua_ is a broad and heavy band of wool, embroidered in
+geometrical patterns, the color being cochineal. Above these bands,
+there are embroideries in the same colored wool, animal and human
+figures, and geometrical designs. Unfortunately, cochineal, while
+brilliant, is by no means permanent, a single washing of the garment
+spreading the color through the white texture. The _huipilis_ are
+ornamented frequently with red, purple and crimson ribbons, bought in
+stores in the town, which are sewed to the garment in such a fashion as
+to divide it into rectangular spaces. These, in turn, are occupied with
+the elaborate large patterns in pink representing the eagle and other
+designs already described. It is uncommon among Mexican indians to
+find a native use of silk. Here, however, silk-worms are reared and
+carry-cloths, kerchiefs and belts are woven from their product. These
+are worn by both men and women. The mode of wearing the hair among the
+Mazatec women is in two broad, flat braids hanging down the back. The
+women made no demur whatever to being measured, but everyone, who
+presented herself for the operation, came dressed in her best clothing,
+with her hair elaborately braided, and showed serious disappointment and
+dissatisfaction if not invited to be photographed.
+
+[Illustration: MAZATEC WOMEN; HUAUHTLA]
+
+[Illustration: HEAVY BRAIDS; MAZATEC WOMEN; HUAUHTLA]
+
+The town has a most curious reputation, as devoted to commerce, and not
+to manual labor. In fact, it is considered disgraceful for a man of
+Huauhtla to indulge in work. The people of San Lucas, the nearest town,
+and a dependency, are, on the other hand, notably industrious, and it
+is they who carry burdens and do menial work for the lordly Huauhtla
+people. Mrs. de Butrie told us that she tried in vain to get a cook in
+the village. The woman was satisfied to cook and found no fault with the
+wages offered, but refused the job because it involved the carrying of
+water, and she feared lest she might be seen at such ignoble labor. Mr.
+de Butrie a while ago bought a set of shelves from a man who had them in
+his house. As they were dirty, he suggested that they must be cleaned
+before he would receive them. The seller said, very well, he would send
+for a man of San Lucas to clean them. It was only lately that they
+condescended to carry stuff to Teotitlan to sell. In the town-house they
+cherish two much-prized possessions, the _titulo_ and _mapa_ of the
+town. The former is the grant made by the Spanish government to this
+village, in the year 1763. It is an excellently preserved document in
+parchment and the old writing is but little faded. As for the _mapa_, it
+is a strip of native, coarse cotton cloth, seven feet by three feet nine
+inches in size, with a landscape map of the surrounding country painted
+upon it in red, yellow, black and brown. It is a quaint piece of
+painting, with mountains valleys, streams, caves, trees, houses,
+churches and villages represented on it with fair exactness. It was
+probably painted at the same time that the _titulo_ was given to the
+village.
+
+The morning after our arrival, we witnessed a quadruple indian wedding
+in the church at seven. The brides were magnificent in the brilliant
+_huipilis_, and the godmothers were almost as much so, with their fine
+embroideries. The ceremony was much like that at Coixtlahuaca, already
+described. The bride put a silver ring upon the groom's finger, and
+he did the same by her; the priest put money into the man's hands, he
+transferred this to the woman, and she to the priest; single chains
+were hung about the neck of each of the party, both men and women; the
+covering sheet or scarf was stretched over all four couples at once,
+covering the heads of the women and the shoulders of the men.
+
+Near the town-house, along the main street, is a series of sheds or
+shacks used as shops, altogether numerically disproportionate to the
+population. Great was our surprise to find that one of these was kept
+by a Frenchman, who spoke excellent English, and who is married to an
+English lady. They were the only white people living in this great
+indian town. Monsieur de Butrie has a coffee plantation in the valley a
+few miles away, at Chichotla, but he finds the climate bad for himself
+and lady. Accordingly, they had moved up onto the high land, and it is
+easy for him, when he must give attention to his _finca_, to go to it
+for the necessary time. They have some pretty children and are doing
+well. We called at their house, quite like the others of the town, and
+were hospitably received with chocolate and sweet English cakes. During
+our stay, this gentleman and his wife did their utmost for our comfort,
+and gave us many interesting bits of information regarding the people,
+their customs and their superstitions. We have elsewhere described in
+detail their witchcraft practices, their belief in transformation into
+tigers, and their ideas regarding the destiny and condition of persons
+after death.
+
+[Illustration] [MAZATEC FROM SAN LUCAS]
+
+[Illustration] [MAZATEC FROM SAN LUCAS]
+
+Just across the way from the town-house, was a large house of the usual
+fashion, which we quickly learned was the rendezvous and practice-place
+of the town band. This consisted entirely of boys, none of them more
+than twenty years of age, and numbered upwards of thirty pieces. The
+leader was a man of forty, a capital trainer. The daily practice began
+at 4:30 in the morning, and was kept up until noon; then ensued an
+hour's rest. At one, they were again practicing, and no break occurred
+until long after dark. During the days that we were there, a single
+piece only was being practiced. It was our alarm clock in the morning,
+beat time for our work throughout the day, and lulled us to sleep when
+we retired for the night. Senor de Butrie insists that during the year
+and more than he has lived in the village, several boys have blown
+themselves, through consumption, into early graves. Our pleasant stay
+at Huauhtla came to an equally pleasant termination. Having stated the
+number of animals and human carriers necessary, and the hour at which
+we wished to start, we found every preparation made on awaking in the
+morning, and at 6:25, after an excellent breakfast with Padre Manzano,
+we sallied forth. Six human carriers bore our busts and baggage, and
+four capital horses carried us rapidly over the good road. It was a
+magnificent morning, but later in the day, as the sun rose, it became
+hot. We arrived at three in the afternoon with our carriers close
+behind. The following morning we forgave the crabbed _cochero_ at
+Teotitlan sufficiently to take his stage coach for San Antonio, where
+we arrived in fifty minutes, having two hours to wait before the
+north-bound train took us towards Puebla.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XX
+
+TEPEHUAS AND TOTONACS
+
+(1900)
+
+
+Leaving Puebla on the early morning train, and taking the Pachuca branch
+at Ometusco, we changed cars at Tepa onto the narrow-gauge Hidalgo
+road for Tulancingo, which took us by a winding course through a great
+_maguey_ country. After two hours of riding, in the latter part of which
+we were within sight of a pretty lakelet, we reached Tulancingo. Broad
+avenues, bordered with handsome trees, connected the station with the
+town, in the _plaza_ of which we shortly found ourselves. This _plaza_
+consists of a large square, planted with trees, with an open space
+before it, and is surrounded by various shops and the great church.
+It is pretentious, but desolate. In front of the treed space, were
+temporary booths erected for the carnival, in which _dulces, aguas
+frescas_, and _cascarones_ were offered for sale. Hawkers on the streets
+were selling _cascarones_, some of which were quite elaborate. The
+simplest were egg-shells, dyed and stained in brilliant colors, and
+filled with bits of cut paper; these were broken upon the heads of
+persons as they passed, setting loose the bits of paper which became
+entangled in the hair and scattered over the clothing. Some had, pasted
+over the open ends, little conical caps of colored tissue-paper. Others
+consisted of a lyre-shaped frame, with an eggshell in the center of the
+open part. Some had white birds, single or in pairs, hovering over the
+upper end. The carnival was on in full force, and we saw frequent bands
+of maskers. They went in companies of a dozen or so, dressed like
+clowns, with their clothing spotted and striped with red. Their faces
+were concealed by cloth. They walked rapidly, almost ran, through the
+streets. They spoke to no one, and did nothing except to keep up a loud
+and constant trilling of the most ridiculous kind. Packs of youngsters
+chased behind and crowded upon them; they also pelted them with stones,
+and the head of one of the maskers was bleeding quite profusely, but he
+still kept up his headlong run and trilling. We had counted upon the
+assistance of the _jefe_, but found him too dignified to receive us
+outside of office hours, and therefore we arranged the matter of
+our transportation to Huachinango. The price was high, the coach
+inconvenient, and the _cochero_ unaccommodating. In vain we tried to
+have all of our plaster taken in the load with us; only one-half could
+go, the balance must follow the succeeding day. Finally, at about ten in
+the morning, we lumbered heavily away, and were soon out of the town,
+passing through a brown, hilly district, at first devoted to _pulque_
+plantations, but further along becoming fine pastureland. Neat fields,
+separated by bands of yellow, unplowed stubble, and true farm-houses of
+good size, were striking features. We passed through quantities of pine
+groves, and everywhere a cold wind blew strongly in our faces. At one
+place, we were obliged to dismount and walk, on account of the sharp
+descent, and found ourselves upon an ugly piece of limestone or
+sandstone rock, which soon, to our surprise, we found replaced by a
+solid mass of obsidian. The _cochero_, says that the place is known
+as _itzlis_--the obsidians, the knives. It was 2:30 when we reached
+Aguazotepec, where we called upon the _presidente_, and engaged a
+_mozo_, for a _peso_, to convey our instruments the balance of the
+journey, as we were completely tired out with carrying them upon our
+knees. We also arranged with that official to forward the balance of
+our stuff to Huachinango the following day. We also arranged to pay
+for horses from Aguazotepec to Huachinango. Having eaten an excellent
+dinner, when ready for resuming our journey, we discovered, with
+surprise, that the stage was still our conveyance to Venta Colorado,
+only a league from Huachinango. There we were to secure the animals
+for which we had paid, though we were warned that only three could be
+supplied. Manuel and Louis at once tossed coins to see which should
+ride first. Although we had paid the full cost of the coach, two other
+passengers were crowded in upon us, and the man, for whom we had paid
+the _peso_ to carry our instruments, ran alongside the coach on foot,
+throwing stones at the mules, while we had again the pleasure of
+carrying the instruments and boxes on our knees. The country through
+which we rode was much as before. For some time we passed through a fine
+pine forest; then we made a deep descent into a valley, at the bottom of
+which flowed a large stream, which was bridged by a grand old structure
+of stone and cement. This descent, and the opposite ascent, we were
+obliged to make on foot, as the approaches were bad. We have been
+impressed strongly with the fact that everywhere in Mexico the worst
+bits of road are those which, in old Spanish days, were handsomely
+and well paved; and which, during the disturbed period of the early
+Republic, were neglected and allowed to go to decay. It is depressing to
+see so many evidences of past magnificence and present poverty. It was
+almost dusk when, after skirting the edge of a deep gorge, we reached a
+piece of bad road, where the coach with difficulty made its way, with
+frightful jolts and pitchings, till we drew up at Venta Colorado. Here
+the coach was finally abandoned. Our animals were packed and mounted,
+and after fussing and quarreling with our ugly _cochero_ as to whether
+he or we should carry the bulk of our baggage, we started. The distance
+was not great. It was down hill, and we had to pick our way with great
+care over the rough road, filled with loosened and separated blocks of
+ancient paving.
+
+This district, in one respect, reminded us of the Tarascan country.
+Every house along the road was a sales-place, where drinks, cigarettes,
+fruit and bread were offered, and each had the little boarded window,
+open when sales were solicited, and closed when business stopped. The
+houses, too, were log structures with shingled four-pitched roofs, and
+the houses in the town were well built, cement-walled, with low-sloped,
+far projecting tile roofs supported on trimmed beams. One might as well
+have been in Patzcuaro, Uruapan, or Chilchota. Again the _cochero_; we
+had told him that the stuff should go to the _jefatura_, and not to the
+hotel; he told us with great insolence that the _jefatura_ was closed,
+and that it would be impossible to see the _jefe_ and that the stuff
+would remain at the hotel; he followed us, when we went to the _jefe's_
+house, and great was his surprise when he found our order efficacious.
+We had a long talk with the _jefe_, who told us that few indians lived
+in the town, and that none of them were Totonacs; he assured us that,
+though there were no Totonacs in Huachinango, we could find them in
+abundance at Pahuatlan, to which he recommended us to go. The nearest
+indian town to Huachinango is Chiconcuauhtla, but it is Aztec. The next
+day was spent in town, waiting for our other baggage, and for the _jefe_
+to arrange our orders and lay out our journey. My day of fever was on,
+and I spent it mostly in bed. There were many indians in the market,
+most of whom were Aztecs, though a few were Otomis. The men wore dark
+brown or black _cotones_; the _enaguas_ of the women were wool and were
+dark blue or black. Many carried on their shoulders carry-pouches,
+consisting of two rectangular frames of sticks, corded together along
+the lower side, and kept from opening too widely, above, by a net of
+cords at the ends. The indians of Chiconcuauhtla are easily recognized
+by their little flat, round caps. Late in the afternoon the bands of
+maskers, here called the _huehuetes_, were out. There were a dozen of
+them, dressed in absurd costumes; a bewhiskered Englishman in loud
+clothing, a gentleman, a clown, a lady, etc. These all went, by twos,
+on horseback; a clown and a devil and a boy with a prod, on foot,
+accompanied them. The duty of the latter, who remotely resembled death,
+was to prod the unhappy devil. They were accompanied by noisy crowds the
+several times they made the rounds of the town, keeping up the peculiar
+trilling, which we had noticed at Tulancingo. At dusk, these maskers
+dismounted and promenaded in couples about the _plaza_.
+
+Nowhere, as in this region, have we had so much difficulty with regard
+to animals. The demands were so exorbitant that we insisted upon the
+_jefe_ making the arrangements. He received us in anything but a
+pleasant mood, but acceded, and finally we secured four horses and four
+mules, for which we were to pay for two full days, and a foot _mozo_ to
+whom we also were to pay two full days' wages. As the _jefe_ himself
+had made this arrangement, we consented to it, but the man who was
+outfitting us then demanded pay for the _mozo_ who went to bring back
+the horses and for the fodder of the animals. At this, even the _jefe_
+balked, declaring that he was not in favor of really robbing the
+gentlemen. Paying him the seventeen dollars and twenty-five cents, in
+order that there might be no further discussion, we started. Just as we
+left, the man who supplied the animals decided that our loads, which
+before had been so large, were really not too large for three mules,
+which number was actually sent with us, though we had paid for four.
+We were ready for starting at seven, but it was ten before we left.
+Meantime, clouds had gathered, and just as we started, rain began. There
+were first several separate showers, and then a steady downpour, which
+lasted almost till we reached Pahuatlan. All the blankets had been
+packed away, and we rode through the rain until our clothes were
+drenched through and through. For three hours this continued, and it
+was impossible to see anything of the country through which we passed.
+Finally, however, as we reached a great crest, and looked down into the
+valley beyond, the sky was clear and we could see something of the scene
+about us. The descent we were to make, and the slope in front, were
+covered with sugar-cane, broken here and there by great patches of
+pineapples. With each plantation of sugar-cane there was a little
+shelter of poles under which was a sap-trough or boiling-tank, while at
+the side of and behind the shelter was a rude mill, the power for which
+was furnished by a yoke of oxen. Boys fed the fresh cane between the
+crushing rollers, and the sap, as it ran out, was carried in little
+troughs to vats. Not at all these little shelters was sugar-making in
+progress, as we passed, but over both slopes many columns of smoke
+indicated places where the work was going on. The fire in the vat kept
+the sap boiling, and a man standing near with a great ladle, pierced
+with holes, kept dipping up and pouring out the hot sap. When we started
+up the great ascent we had no hint of Pahuatlan, and, when we reached
+the summit, could see nothing of it. But hardly had we begun the descent
+before we saw the large and handsome town below, but still with a long
+slope and a sharp ascent to be passed, before we could reach it. From
+the brook-side, at the bottom of the valley, almost to the village
+itself, we passed through a dense growth of bananas, which seemed to
+have suffered some damage, as many were dry and yellow, and individual
+leaves were curiously tattered and jagged. Among them grew other plants,
+coffee, orange-trees, peaches, and cane. When we reached the town, my
+heart sank; a church with handsome dome and modern tower, a planted
+_plaza_ with central fountain, buildings, of two stories with gaudy
+fronts and _portales_, surrounding three sides of the square, augured
+better for comfort while we were in the place, than for work
+on Totonacs. We rode up to the _municipio_, where we found the
+_presidente_, a rather stylish young fellow, who was interested in our
+work and helpful. The town controls fourteen thousand persons, and its
+name is derived from that of a large _ahuacate_, the Aztec name of which
+is _pahuatl_. The _presidente_ assured us that there was no Totonac
+town, properly speaking, within the limits of the _municipio_. For all
+this district, Orozco y Berra makes many errors. Atla, which he lists as
+Totonac, is really Aztec. The _presidente_, upon a local map, showed us
+the interesting way in which natural barriers limit idioms. Two
+little streams, coming together at an acute angle, may divide three
+languages--one being spoken in the angle and one on either side.
+In Tlaxco, a small village in this _municipio_, four idioms are
+spoken--Aztec, Otomi, Totonac and Tepehua.
+
+Two years before, just as my work was ending, we were in the great Otomi
+town of Huixquilucan, in the state of Mexico. While resting at midday, I
+noticed a neatly-dressed and clean young indian, plainly not Otomi, with
+whom I conversed. He was an Aztec, and much interested in the work we
+were doing. In our conversation, he told me that I would find much of
+interest in the state of Hidalgo, and particularly called my attention
+to the making of paper from bark, which he had observed in the town of
+San Gregorio, two years before. This particularly interested me, and I
+then made notes regarding the method of getting to San Gregorio. I was
+advised by him, in case of going to that place, to talk with Don Pablo
+Leyra, of Huehuetla, who was himself an Indian and a man of consequence
+in the district--a sort of _cacique_ among his people. Several years
+ago, I had first learned from Senor Eurosa, a Mexican Protestant
+clergyman, that in the little town of Tlacuilotepec, there still survive
+interesting pagan practices. In planning our present journey, I had
+arranged to visit San Gregorio and Tlacuilotepec for the purpose of
+investigating this manufacture of paper and these pagan customs.
+Inquiring of the _presidente_ of Pahuatlan about his indians, I asked
+regarding paper-beating, and discovered that it was done at the nearest
+indian village of San Pablito, Otomi. We were told that bark of several
+species of trees was used--_jonote_, dragon, and mulberry; that the
+paper is usually made secretly and in-doors; that the passing traveller
+can hear the sound of light and rapid pounding as he passes through the
+village; that it is made in every house, and the proper season is when
+the sap runs, April to June; San Pablito is the only village in the
+_municipio_ where it is made. It is used in _brujeria_ (witchcraft);
+other paper can be bought much cheaper, but only this kind is
+serviceable. It is cut into _munecos_; representing human beings and
+horses and other animals, and these are used to work injury to human
+beings and beasts, being buried in front of the house or in the
+_corral_. The judge, who was sitting by, told us that a prisoner brought
+before him for trial was found to carry such a paper figure, which was
+sewed through the body with thread and had its lips sewed also; he
+learned that this figure represented himself, and that the lips were
+sewed to prevent him from pronouncing judgment on the prisoner. They
+assured me that the nearest point for finding Totonacs or Tepehuas, in
+sufficient numbers for my purpose, was in the district of Tenango del
+Doria, where, at Huehuetla, we would find the largest Tepehua town, and
+that in Pantepec, which is in the district of Huachinango, and near
+Huehuetla, we would find Totonacs. We had had such ill success in
+locating Totonacs so far, that, at our suggestion, they telephoned to
+the _jefe_ at Tenango inquiring regarding the populations of Huehuetla
+and Pantepec, with the result that we decided to visit those towns.
+
+At Tulancingo, we had been snubbed by the _jefe_, who would not treat
+with us outside of office hours. When the _presidente_ of Pahuatlan took
+us to the house where arrangements had been made for our accommodation,
+we found a garrulous, simple-minded, individual who was set to clear
+our room and make our beds. To myself, as leader of the company, he
+was attentive and ceremonious in the highest degree, and on several
+occasions he took my companions to task for their ignorance regarding
+the proper deference to display toward me. He inquired whether we were
+acquainted with Senor Arroyo, _jefe politico_ of Tulancingo, and then
+informed us, with pride that that gentleman was his "Senor Padre."
+"If so, Senors, you may well ask why you see me thus dressed in
+_calzoncillos_. For two reasons: first, I am not a legitimate son, no,
+Senors, my lady mother, who bore me was an Otomi indian, but I am the
+acknowledged illegitimate son of my honored Senor Padre. Second, I had
+the misfortune to be involved in trouble in the district of Del Doria,
+which forced me to flee from that district to escape the _jefe_. But,
+sir, my Senor Padre said to me, 'son, I am the _jefe politico_ of
+Tulancingo and the governor of the State is Pedro L. Rodriguez; I am his
+intimate friend, and we shall succeed in ousting that _jefe_ in Tenango
+del Doria who has ordered your arrest.'" He also told us of one time,
+when his Senor Padre and an inspector visited that unfortunate district
+as an investigating committee, and found the _jefe_ guilty and put him
+in jail _incomunicado_. He also told us of the band of Pahuatlan, justly
+famous, which made so great an impression in one town it visited,
+that it determined to go to Tulancingo to serenade the _jefe_ of that
+district, his honored Senor Padre. "And I was invited, sir, not that I
+am a musician or know one note from another, but because I am of
+the family of the gentleman who was to be honored, and as a mark of
+distinguished favor to both members of the family. The band played so
+beautifully, that it was not allowed to stop until half-past-eleven at
+night, when it retired in great triumph." All this was very interesting,
+the first time it was told us, but the natural son remained while we ate
+supper, and afterwards, following us to our sleeping-room, kept up the
+repetition until two were already in bed and asleep and the others
+wished to be, when, finally, we turned him out and locked the door upon
+him for the night. We have stated that we paid for four animals to bring
+our baggage hither, while but three were actually employed; the animals,
+both pack and passenger, started on their journey for Huachinango at
+half-past-four in the afternoon, though we had paid both beast and man
+two full days' wages.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Tlacuilotepec is a dependency of Pahuatlan. We started for our day's
+trip thither on a good lot of animals, at eight o'clock in the morning,
+with two foot _mozos_ for carriers. The journey was delightful. For a
+little, we followed a trail down the left-hand bank of a fine ravine.
+Nearly at the foot we struck to the left, through a little cut, and were
+surprised to find ourselves upon the right-hand slope of another gulf of
+immense depth. A few minutes later, we reached the point where the two
+streams united. And from there on, for a long time, we followed the
+bottom of a great gorge. The rock walls were bold and often sheer, and
+the upper line of mountain horizon was graceful and varied. The cliffs
+were mostly limestone, and presented remarkable examples of folding and
+dislocation. The long roots of trees, following exposed rock surfaces
+downward for yards, and twisting and bending to find lodgment in the
+crevices, were curious. Great tufts of a plant with long, narrow,
+light-green leaves hung down along vertical rock faces. In little
+caverns, at the foot of cliffs, were damp spots filled with ferns and
+broad-leaved caladiums, and brilliant clusters of begonias in bloom.
+At several places, the water of springs or underground streams gushed
+forth, in natural rock-basins, or from under projecting ledges. At one
+spot, there was a dainty basin of limestone into which a pretty veil of
+spring water fell gracefully. We crossed and recrossed the stream many
+times. Everywhere we were within sound of the creaking sugar-mills, and
+in sight of the ladling of boiled sap; everywhere we met _arrieros_
+driving animals loaded with little loaves of native sugar; everywhere
+the forest was broken with little patches of sugar-cane, growing on the
+slopes. Here and there, we saw cables slung across the streams, for
+passing cargoes at high water. At one place was a fine display of
+basaltic columns, the position of which was horizontal, the flow having
+come up as a sheet injected from below, and not as a surface out-flow,
+where the jointage would have been vertical. Finally, leaving this
+beautiful ravine, we made a rapid ascent, passing a little village
+consisting almost wholly of a school, noisy with study, and a church,
+with a separate square tower. Shortly after reaching the summit, and
+dipping slightly, we found Tlacuilotepec. It is not a large town. At its
+center _mestizo,_ it has charge of several indian villages. We had
+been referred for information concerning surviving paganism to a Senor
+Martinez. We were interested in finding that the _presidente_ of the
+town was a brother of this gentleman, and that both were Protestants. We
+were received with great cordiality, not only on account of our official
+introduction, but also because we brought an unofficial introduction
+from Protestant friends. Two charming beds were arranged in the little
+meeting-place in Senor Martinez's own house, and two others, almost as
+good, were secured for the others of the party, in the little _meson_
+of the village. As we chatted, we were refreshed with a delicious
+orange-wine, which is made here, and during our days spent with Don
+Quirino, we had meals fit for a king. The indians under his charge are
+Otomis, and in one little village, Santa Maria, Totonac. When we came
+to inquire regarding the pagan practice for which we were searching,
+we learned that it was peculiar to the Otomis, and formed their annual
+_costumbre_--custom. They believe that Montezuma is to come again.
+Meantime, from him come health, crops, and all good things. Their
+_costumbre_ is a feast given in his honor, of which he is believed to
+partake. A _jacal_--hut--is prepared in a retired spot; a table is
+constructed full length of the house within, and upon this a feast is
+spread of which all partake.
+
+Upon this table they place many _munecos_ of paper; formerly these were
+made of the bark paper, but they are now made of ordinary paper bought
+in the stores. There may be so many of these that they cover the table
+an inch or two thick. The feasters shove money, usually small pieces
+of silver, beneath these figures. They then kill turkeys and hens and
+chickens, and sprinkle the blood from the headless bodies over the
+_munecos_. This they do that Montezuma may be propitiated, and give them
+what they desire; the money and the _munecos_, sprinkled with blood, are
+left upon the table after the feast, the former being stolen by passing
+_mestizos_.
+
+The _presidente_ stated that, at the _pueblito_ of Santa Maria, where we
+should go upon the morrow to see some Totonacs, they had just celebrated
+their annual _costumbre_. He said that it might be somewhat similar,
+as they had sent him a headless turkey, as a gift. In the morning, we
+visited this village accompanied by the two brothers. A half hour's ride
+brought us to the spot, from which one gets one of the most lovely views
+in all this picturesque country. Standing on the end of a little spur
+upon which the village lies, one sees the handsome river below, which
+separates this _municipio_ from that of Villa Juarez. To the left, rise
+magnificent mountains covered with brilliant green vegetation, broken
+here and there by bare rock faces, from the base of which gentle slopes,
+extending down to the river, are covered with little corn-fields.
+Cuauhtepec, a Totonac pueblo, where all are said to dress in white, lies
+upon this stream, and immediately back from it the cultivated fields
+of the village stretch up to the very crest. To the right, is seen
+the little ranch Tanchitla, with its fields, a strip of green forest
+separating these from the fields of the next village, Tlapajualla. The
+stream abounds in fish of various kinds, which form an important food
+supply. They are, however, rapidly being destroyed by the practice of
+exploding dynamite cartridges in the water, by which not only the adult
+fish, but the young, of all ages, are killed. Unless the practice soon
+ceases, and there are rigid laws against it, there will soon be no fish
+left in any of the streams of this whole region. This particular stream
+bears different names in different portions of its course--thus it is
+called Tanchitla, Pahuatlan, San Marcos, Caxones, Xico, etc.
+
+Having noticed that here, as at Pahuatlan, the banana trees were badly
+injured, we learned that this havoc was the result of two recent
+hail-storms, which were felt over a wide area, and which were of almost
+unexampled severity. By the time we had enjoyed the outlook, and learned
+a little of the village, the messenger who had been sent to call the
+people together had performed his duty, and a picturesque group of our
+long-sought Totonacs were at hand. The women wear _quichiquemils_ of
+native cotton cloth, the neck opening of which is over-hemmed with
+black wool. Lines of crosses, rosettes, birds, etc., are worked in
+various-colored wools upon them. Many of them have a broad line of
+color, in geometrical combinations, running vertically up the middle.
+The men wear _cotones_ of black and white.
+
+Twenty-five or thirty of the more important men of the village were now
+taken to the schoolhouse, where the _presidente_ inquired, for me, in
+regard to the _costumbre_. At first a little hesitancy was shown, but
+soon all were interested and talked freely. The _costumbre_ comes at
+about the same time each year, though not upon a fixed date. Its purpose
+is to secure health, good weather and crops for the coming year, though
+it may be held on the occasion of pestilence. Everyone, even widows and
+old maids, brings something for the feast. The celebration is held in
+some large house, and lasts through two days; floral decorations are
+arranged in the four corners of the room, candles are lighted, and
+_copal_ is burned. The first day, each person brings a handful of earth
+from his field, which is placed in a heap upon the floor. Fowls and
+animals are slaughtered for the occasion; their heads are cut off and
+their blood is sprinkled upon the earth. After feasting and drinking, a
+dance follows, the dancers wearing crowns and necklaces of yellow arnica
+flowers, and carry in their hands wands made of pine-splints wrapped
+with corn-husks, and with a flower of arnica tied to each end. The
+second day, corn on the ear and beans are brought instead of earth, and
+these are sprinkled with blood. On both days, blood-sprinkled material
+is carried home, and the seed and earth are later put into the field. In
+the feasting-room, two paper lanterns are hung from the ceiling; these
+are stuck over with gilt and colored paper disks and stars. They
+represent the sun and stars. Upon these lanterns a cross of blood is
+made, at the time when the earth and seed are sprinkled. After the dance
+ends on the second day, children shoot at the lanterns with small arrows
+and try to break them. Disappointed that no mention had been made of
+bark paper in connection with this ceremonial, we asked whether they
+ever used it. They answered promptly in the affirmative. For what? To
+wrap _ocotes_. With this, the man who told me hastened out and came back
+with a little parcel in his hand. This consisted of twelve little sticks
+of pine about three inches long; they were tied together with a band of
+thread or bark fibre, and were stained with blood; these were wrapped in
+a piece of green banana leaf, the upper face of the leaf being placed
+inside and the base of the leaf kept downward. When it had been thus
+carefully folded, it was carried to the field and buried in a hole,
+carefully dug, so that the top of the package was close to the surface
+of the ground, and the face of the leaf wrapping was directed toward the
+rising sun. To anyone who has studied American indian religions, these
+two _costumbres_ suggest much of interest.
+
+The young man who had been most interested in our proper understanding
+of the _costumbre_ was anxious that we should see the village idols.
+These are kept concealed, apparently in a cave, though it is possible
+that they are buried in the ground. At all events, they exist, and in
+considerable number. A lively discussion ensued as to whether it would
+be proper to show them to us, and it was decided that nothing ought to
+be done until the old woman, who is at the head of the pagan practices
+of the village, should be present. It seems that in the _costumbre_,
+already described, there are four priests or leaders. One of these is
+the old woman just mentioned, and the other three are men. She was sent
+for, and while we waited, we were told that, if we desired to see
+the lanterns that were used in the last _costumbre_, they were still
+preserved in the _santocalli. Santocalli_ is a mongrel word--from
+Spanish _santo_, saint, and the Aztec _calli_, house. It was a little
+structure of adobe and canes, close to the schoolhouse, and fronting
+with it upon the little _plaza_ of the village. It had a two-pitched
+thatched roof and a single door in the front. After some demur, it was
+opened, and we entered. It consisted of a single plain room with two
+benches made of beams along the wall. At the back was a terrible Christ
+and Virgin, and, to the right and behind, another Virgin. These Virgin
+figures were both small and unattractive, and both wore _quichiquemils_.
+In front of the Christ and larger Virgin was a simple altar built
+against the wall. In the floor, directly in front of it, were four small
+hollows. To the right of the altar, a flat stone was set into the floor.
+In front of the altar stood a small table on which were censers and
+candle-sticks. Underneath this table, the space between the four
+legs was occupied by a heap of ashes; in front and behind this were
+ill-defined basin hollows. To beams in front of these were hung the
+almost globular paper lanterns already mentioned. When we had seen these
+lanterns, and were about to leave, the old _bruja_ appeared, with her
+female acolyte. She was furious over the desecration of strangers
+entering the _santocalli_, without her presence. She was a striking
+figure; very small, with a wrinkled, shrewd and serious, but not unkind,
+face; her white hair was almost concealed by her _rebozo_, which was
+folded square and laid upon her head with a portion flowing behind.
+The most striking thing was her great devotion, and complete unconcern
+regarding all around her. Entering, she hastened to the altar,
+knelt,--touched her forehead to the edge--and in a clear but not loud
+voice crooned an impassioned cry to Christ, to San Jose and to the
+Virgin. Imperiously turning to her acolyte, she seized the censer filled
+with copal, and, having lighted it, incensed the figures. Turning to the
+_presidente_, she asked whether he were going to placate the saint for
+invasion by giving _aguardiente_ and candles, both of which appeared, as
+if by magic, when she was given money. Pouring _aguardiente_ from the
+bottle into a glass, she poured into the four basins in the ground
+before the altar, before the Virgin, before and behind the heaps of
+ashes under the table, and then placed it to the lips of the Virgin and
+Christ, lovingly requesting them to partake. She then compelled each of
+the three men priests to make the same libation. Taking the unlighted
+candles, she made passes with them, over and across the figures, first
+to one side and then to the other, brushing the wicks against them.
+This, too, had to be done by the three assistants, after which the old
+lady began to make vigorous personal use of the bottle of spirits,
+though she was not at all selfish, urging, not only her acolytes, but
+the _presidente_, his brother, and the chief guest, to partake. It was
+too late to suggest a visit to the idols, but the curious scene we
+had witnessed gave sufficient food for thought. Hurrying back to
+Tlacuilotepec, we ate a last excellent dinner, which had been long
+waiting, and at three left for Pahuatlan. Our host, who had been
+unremitting in his attention, refused all money. At certain indian
+houses which we passed upon our homeward way, we saw curious pouches
+made of armadillo-shells, hanging upon posts or on the house walls. We
+learned that they were used at planting-time for holding seed-corn.
+When the shell is freshly removed from the animal, it is bent into the
+required shape, and then packed full with wet ashes, to make it retain
+its form in drying. Though it was half-past three when we left, the way
+was so cool and delightful that we made the journey in three hours.
+
+During our day at Pahuatlan, with a guide furnished by the _presidente_,
+I made the journey on foot to Atla, an Aztec town, famous for the little
+cotton sacks with red wool patterns, which are almost universally
+carried by men throughout this district. White _cotones_, with narrow,
+dark stripes and a transverse band of red decoration at each end, and
+white _quichiquemils_, decorated with brilliant designs in red wool, are
+also made here. Our object was not so much to see the village and the
+garments, as to visit a famous witch's cave, situated in the noble
+pinnacle of rock, plainly visible from Pahuatlan. The whole party
+started out from Pahuatlan, but at the bottom of the great slope, I left
+my companions to swim, while the guide and I, crossing a pretty
+covered bridge, scarcely high enough for a man of my height wearing a
+_sombrero_, went on. It was a long climb to the village, but, when
+we reached there, my _mozo_ with great glee called my attention to
+_bruheria_ directly at the side of the church. In front of the building,
+to the right of the door as one enters, is a hole in the ground, into
+which a few large stones have been clumsily thrown or laid. Here
+chickens, flowers, eggs, etc., are buried, in order to secure good luck
+or to restore health. Carefully removing some of the stones, we saw
+ample evidences of such offerings, in bones, bits of egg-shells, and
+dried flowers. From here, the climb was easy to the crest overlooking
+the village, and to the curious tower-like mass projecting conspicuously
+from it. The cave is situated in this mass of rock and faces almost
+east; it is a shallow cavern, well-sheltered and dry, perhaps fifty feet
+wide along the cliff's front, though only the eastern third, which is
+the more completely worn out, is used for ceremonies; it is, perhaps,
+no more than eight or ten feet deep, and has greater height than depth.
+Within the cave itself we found a little table, a small chair, and two
+blocks for seats. On either side of the table, a pole was set obliquely
+against the wall. The upper end of the left-hand pole was tied with a
+strip of palm which was looped through a hole in the rock wall. At two
+or three other places, strips of palm had been slipped through natural
+holes in the wall, behind bars of stone, and then tied. To the left,
+were a censer and two candle-sticks, behind which, lying obliquely
+against the wall, were twenty-five or thirty dance-wands. These were
+sticks wrapped with corn-husks and tufted with clusters of flowers tied
+about the middle and at each end. The flowers used were mostly the
+yellow death-flower and purple ever-lastings. Two or three of them were
+made with the yellow death-flower--_cempoalxochil_--alone. A few were
+made of _xocopa_ leaves. While only twenty-five or thirty were in
+position, hundreds of old ones lay on the bank to the left. Three small
+crosses of wood were placed near the wands; much white paper, clipped
+and cut into decorated designs, was lying about, as also wads of cotton,
+colored wools, long strings of yarn, and bits of half-beaten bark fibre.
+Near the front edge of the cave was a hole with large stones; here, with
+a little scratching, we found feathers and bits of bone of turkeys and
+hens, that had been sacrificed, as well as splints of pine tied together
+with bark string. Wooden spoons, probably used in the banquets of the
+witches, were stowed away in crevices of the rock. Chains of the yellow
+death-flower were looped up against the wall. It is said that the people
+of the town never enter here, but only _brujas_. Nor is it the exclusive
+property of the witches of Atla, of whom there are but two or three, but
+those of several pueblos make their rendezvous in this cave. In fact,
+from the crest, we could see two other little towns that are interested
+in this cave, though located in another valley.
+
+[Illustration: THE PAGAN PRIESTESS AND HER ACOLYTE; SANTA MARIA]
+
+[Illustration: THE WITCH'S CAVE AT ATLA]
+
+Don Antonio, at whose house we stayed, told us that San Pablito is worse
+for _bruheria_ than Atla. He says the people of that town make use of
+_munecos_ of wood, of various sizes. For these he makes many little
+shoes, for which he charges five or six _reales_ a pair; at that time he
+had orders for three pairs, and showed us the little forms or lasts he
+employs, and the special leather; they are particular about this, using
+black for shoes for males and red for females. He says they also
+use little hats, _serapes, enaguas_ and _quichiquemils_, for their
+_munecos_. Some of these dolls they place on the altar in the church,
+and consider them as sacred, though they remove them when they expect
+the priest. Others they take to a lake in the district of Tenango, near
+San Pablo el Grande, and leave them there as offerings. They also throw
+money and other offerings into the lake.
+
+We started at eight o'clock the following morning, bound for Tenango
+del Doria. For a little time, after leaving Pahuatlan, we mounted, soon
+finding ourselves at the top of a magnificent crest. From here the
+descent was rapid and profound; in front of it rose an equally abrupt
+slope to an even greater height; toward the left this presented a
+wonderful knife-edge crest, jagged and toothed astonishingly, and on
+this great slope, below the level where we were, we saw San Pablito,
+prettily located. As it was Sunday, most of the people were on their
+way to market, and we saw many Otomis, whose dark color and broad faces
+reminded us of those in the state of Mexico, though they did not present
+so marked a type. The _enaguas_ of the women consisted of an upper white
+strip and a lower striped one, the colors in the latter being blue and
+white, or white with a broad band of purplish blue, in which were woven
+white designs. Their _quichiquemil_ was usually rather plain; white with
+a broad band of red, magenta or purple, parallel to the edge. It might,
+however, be decorated with a number of very small geometrical, floral,
+and animal figures, worked in brown, purple and blue, which were never
+so crowded as to destroy the white background. At 9:30 we reached the
+schoolhouse and called out the teacher, to whom we delivered a letter
+which the _presidente_ of Pahuatlan had given us for him. He summoned
+the town authorities and we made known our wish to see some of the bark
+paper. At first there was some hesitancy, but, at last, an old woman
+produced two sheets which, she said, she made the day before. At our
+wish she then brought out the _tabla_, or board of wood on which the
+beating is done, and the stone for beating. The latter was smaller than
+the ancient beating-stone, and not grooved upon the beating surfaces; it
+had, however, the side notches for convenient holding in the hand. The
+board on which the beating is done is smooth, and is constantly cleaned
+and soaped. Two kinds of bark are used, _moral_ and _xalama_, the former
+giving white, the latter a purplish paper. The bark is thoroughly washed
+with lye-water taken from soaked maize; it is then washed with fresh
+water and thoroughly boiled; it is split into thin strips which are
+carefully arranged upon the board. First the border is laid out the size
+of the sheet to be made; then, within this, strips are laid lengthwise,
+side by side. All of this is then beaten with the stone until the sheet
+of paper results. The paper when finished, presents two sides quite
+different from each other; one, smooth and finished, is the surface that
+was below in the beating, while the other, rougher, is the one that was
+beaten with the stone. The sheets are dried in the sun, carefully folded
+into convenient size, and done up in packages of a dozen, which are sold
+to the indians in all the country round about. We secured seventeen
+dozen sheets of this paper, and samples of the bark, and the board and
+stone used in the beating.
+
+While arrangements were being made for showing us these details
+regarding paper-making, we visited the village church, which was very
+mean and bare; we were disappointed to find nothing suspicious in the
+way of _munecos_. It was suggested that we should visit the _oratorio_,
+where we found more. Here they held their _costumbre_ in June, or
+thereabouts. Saints were arranged in the back of the room on a raised
+altar; in front of this, running through the middle of the room, was a
+table on which stood censers and small candle-sticks of rude pottery.
+Upon the wall, over the saints, were decorations of rushes. Here the
+whole village feast and dance. There were no _munecos_ present, but we
+found plenty of cut paper, most of which was probably decorative; the
+most curious was cut into groups of human figures, some of which had
+crowns and horns, or tufts of hair, upon the top of their heads. These
+were said to be decorations for Montezuma, in whose honor the feast was
+given. Leaving San Pablo at eleven, we rapidly made what remained of the
+great ascent. As we neared the jagged crest of rock, it appeared more
+irregularly gashed and pinnacled than ever. At the crest, leaving the
+old road, which passed directly through the fantastic mass of rocks,
+we reached San Nicolas, from which, on looking backward, we gained a
+magnificent view of the valley and a fine waterfall, which shone like a
+sheet of polished metal, far up the mountain side. From here our road
+descended gently, but winding, in and out, through a series of narrow
+valleys, lying between parallel ridges. As we passed the crest, we saw a
+level field of green corn, which looked as if we must reach it in a few
+minutes. But the curves of the road proved frightfully long. It was
+after two o'clock before we reached the green field, and, just below it,
+Tenango del Doria, and made our way to the _jefatura_.
+
+When the _jefe_ came, we found, to our surprise, that he was the Don
+Pablo Leyra of whom Xochihua had told us two years before. He is a pure
+indian, tall, smooth-faced, of gentlemanly manner, and with all the
+reserve characteristic of his race. He has lived at Huehuetla since
+boyhood, forty-four years, till just now, and has but recently come to
+take the position of _jefe politico_. He has not yet moved his family
+from Huehuetla, and occupies a single room in his office-building. He
+secured us a pleasant room, with good beds for the older, and good
+mattresses for the younger, members of our party, in a house near-by
+upon the hill. The _jefatura_ fills one side of the little _plaza_;
+around the other side are _tiendas_, with high-pitched single roofs, and
+private houses. The town suffers much from _nublina_, and is cold most
+of the time.
+
+[Illustration: INDIANS FISHING IN STREAM]
+
+[Illustration: PAGANISM AND CHRISTIANITY]
+
+We asked Don Pablo about the lake, concerning which we had heard. He
+says it is not as much visited as formerly. While used by Otomis, and
+others of this district, it is most favored by the Huaxtecs, parties of
+whom go there from long distances. They visit it when there is drought,
+for fear that the siren, who lives in it, is annoyed at their neglecting
+to make gifts; when there is too copious rain, they visit it to beg her
+to desist from sending more, and, when crops have been destroyed, to
+placate her anger. Sometimes two or three hundred indians are in these
+companies. They bring _munecos_ of wood, cloth, clay, or even metal;
+such are shod, clad and hatted. They leave these upon the shore. They
+also bring seeds and strew them in the water, and some throw money in.
+They also make offerings of turkeys and hens. Sometimes these bands
+spend several days on the shore, dancing and eating.
+
+We found that Don Pablo had arranged all our plans. We were to leave
+at nine, dine at twelve at San Bartolo, leave there at one, and reach
+Huehuetla between five and six. It was really only a quarter-past-nine
+when we did start, and the _jefe_, himself, saw us on our way. The
+journey was uneventful; the descents were gradual; we saw San Bartolo
+long before we reached it; and, between it and us, there lay a valley,
+like a narrow gash, down which we had to go, and up the other side of
+which we had to climb. We passed Santa Maria, an insignificant town,
+just before reaching the edge of this gully. From there we saw, in the
+mountain ahead, above and behind San Bartolo, a great cavern which we
+believe must belong to witches. Arriving at San Bartolo, we found
+the market in full progress, and had ample opportunity to see the
+characteristic dress of the women, with the little black, red and purple
+designs embroidered upon the white ground. We were impressively received
+at the town-house, for Don Pablo had telephoned them to be ready. Still,
+we waited a long time for the promised dinner, but at half-past-one
+climbed up a steep hill, in the rear of the town-house, to the home
+of the _presidente's_ father, where a very elaborate meal had been
+prepared, with wine and luxuries. All payment was refused, and, after we
+had rested and refreshed ourselves, we left at half-past-two. The road
+was long; it followed the side of a great gorge, into which it descended
+abruptly; in this gorge we saw magnificent vegetation. The trees were
+heavily hung with long vines and ferns; parasitic fig trees, hugging
+victims whose life sap they were stealing, were abundant. The country
+was of limestone. On the whole, the road was good, but, here and there,
+were patches where we traveled over sharp and jagged out-croppings of
+rock, and near Huehuetla we were forced to make some stiff climbs up the
+cliff sides. Flocks of parrots were numerous, especially toward evening.
+The stream was a handsome one, with clear, deep water; we crossed
+and recrossed many times. The foot-paths rarely crossed, being cut
+sometimes, as a narrow trail, in the rock of the cliff. Noticeable were
+numerous silvery lines of water falling over the cliff, several of which
+must have been hundreds of feet in height; these little threads of water
+were impregnated with lime, and deposited material in a sheet upon the
+bank over which they flowed, so that trails of brown tufa marked their
+location; the lower ends of these deposits expanded into fan-like masses
+of tufa, over which the water trickled, dripped or fell. Where there was
+not sufficient water to produce a stream and fall, but enough to keep
+the tufa moist, the growth of ferns, and other delicate vegetation, was
+brilliant and striking. We passed a number of coffee and sugar ranches
+on the road. It was dark long before we reached Huehuetla, and had it
+not been for the moonlight struggling through the clouds, we should have
+had difficulty in traveling the last portion of the road. At 7:35 we
+arrived, and went at once to the large and handsome house of Don Pablo
+himself, where we were expected, and where an elaborate supper was being
+made ready. The largest room in the house was put at our disposal and
+good beds and cots, beautifully clean and carefully made, were ready.
+Formerly, Don Pablo was the _presidente_ of the town. His successor was
+at the house to meet us, within five minutes after our arrival, and took
+supper with us. It is needless to say that in this town we met with no
+delays in our work. To our surprise, we found a fellow countryman, a
+civil engineer named Culin, from Philadelphia, who has done and is doing
+much work for the pueblos of this region.
+
+Huehuetla is a large town, occupying a long valley hemmed in between
+mountains and bordering a stream. The streets are regular, and the view
+from the hills about, looking down upon the well-built houses and the
+intersecting streets, is very pretty. The houses have substantial walls
+of stone and mud, and many of them are white-plastered outside; all have
+a thick and heavy thatch. The _plaza_ lies before the house where
+we stopped, and, to the right, the large church stands on a terrace
+somewhat above the town. A large school building, finer than many of the
+best in some large cities, was just being finished; its construction was
+due to Don Pablo's influence, and it was soon to be occupied. Meantime,
+the children were given instruction in the church, and at noon and
+evening, when their lessons were closed, they marched in double file,
+down the flight of steps in front of the church and across the _plaza_,
+where they separated and made their way home. During the time that we
+were working at this town, when the school children filed past, they
+always removed their hats in the most respectful manner. While there are
+many _mestizos_ in the town, it may truly be called an indian town, the
+largest of those belonging to the Tepehuas. According to Orozco y Berra,
+Tepehua is not related to any other language in Mexico. We have not
+studied it sufficiently to be sure that he is right; it is, however,
+certain that the language has been much affected by the Totonac, if it
+is not related to it, and many words in the two languages are the same.
+The people of this tribe have a great reputation, more or less deserved,
+for cleanliness; probably it is comparative, contrasting with the
+neighboring Otomis, rather than positive. However that may be, both men
+and women are usually dressed in clean white clothing. The _enaguas_
+of the women are plain white; their belts have a foundation of white
+cotton, but raised designs of black wool are so thickly worked upon them
+that the white is quite inconspicuous.
+
+The _camisas_ and _quichiquemils_ are generally white, with a vertical
+band of red, and with a few animal figures. Women wear many necklaces of
+bright beads, and braid their hair into two braids, which end with tapes
+of various colors,--brown, red, green, maroon, and black. These braids
+are brought together over the head and knotted in place. We secured no
+women for measure until we had practically completed the work with men,
+when they came with a rush, the whole twenty-five at once, dressed in
+their best clothing, and insisted that the work must be done inside
+the schoolhouse, out of sight, instead of on the street, where we had
+operated on the men. We had no opportunity to see any of the popular
+_danzas_, in some of which, we were told, songs were sung in the Tepehua
+language, but we did see examples of the little _teponastls_, or drums,
+used on these occasions; they are made from a round block, perhaps ten
+inches long and three inches in diameter; these are hollowed out below,
+so that two thin lips only are left above, which, when struck, give out
+far more musical tones than one might expect. The two nights that we
+were at Huehuetla, we saw men and women fishing in the stream; carrying
+blazing torches in their left hands, they waded out into the water and
+watched to see the dark bodies of the fish against the pebbly bottom of
+the stream; in the right hand they carried a _machete_, about a foot in
+length, with which they stabbed the fish, rarely missing.
+
+We were now ready for the last tribe of the season, the Totonacs of
+Pantepec. Pantepec is in the district of Huachinango, and we had no
+order from the _jefe_; Don Valentino, the _presidente_ of Huehuetla,
+said, however, that the _presidente_ of Pantepec was his friend, and
+that he would give us a letter of introduction, which would serve all
+purposes. As we were to return by Huehuetla, we left the busts which we
+had made, and all but our most necessary baggage, at Don Pablo's house.
+Though we started at ten, we took the journey slowly, photographing and
+hunting birds. The road was a trail in a ravine, with all the beautiful
+scenery with which we now were so familiar. At one point we saw a
+curious phenomenon. The cliff rose vertically from the water's edge, at
+a place where the stream made a right angle; this cliff consisted of
+almost horizontal strata of varying hardness, so that some of the layers
+were worn a little more than others, leaving these projecting. In the
+space between these projecting layers, round river-pebbles, from the
+size of hen's eggs up to the size of a man's fist, were firmly wedged,
+so that it was with difficulty that they could be dislodged. Not a few,
+but hundreds of the pebbles, were thus wedged, so regularly and firmly
+that we could not believe the work to be that of nature, but suspected
+human hands. We learned, however, that nature really had done the work,
+on the occasion of a flood, the result of a cloud-burst, which swept
+into the valley two or three years before. At several places in this
+stream, we saw groups of from two or three to ten or twelve Totonac
+indians, who were fishing with little nets. Our trail led back and forth
+across this stream many times, and before we reached Pantepec we had
+made thirty-nine crossings. From our last crossing, we climbed a steep
+ascent, passing the little village of Tenasco, and found ourselves at
+Pantepec. We rode at once to the town-house, and were told that the
+_presidente_ was sleeping; we went then to his house, where we were
+informed that he could not be disturbed. We left word that we must see
+him as soon as possible, and that he would find us at the _municipio_.
+Nearly three hours passed before he put in his appearance. Inasmuch
+as we had seen this man's _jefe_, and he knew our errand, we told
+the _secretario_ to send a message for us to him at Huachinango. We
+carefully wrote out the message for forwarding, in which we told the
+_jefe_, that we had waited three hours for attention from the town
+officials, and asked how much longer we should put up with delay. We
+never heard his answer, but in less than ten minutes, the _presidente_,
+covered with perspiration, was waiting for our orders and every
+policeman or the force was ready for our bidding. The message he
+received from the _jefe_ must have been vigorous, for not only was
+everything done for our comfort, but work was rushed. During the next
+day we measured ninety-eight men, photographed twelve subjects, and made
+moulds for all our five busts--an unparalleled day's labor. We were
+fortunate in one respect--that the men had been summoned that day for
+public labor. So far as men were concerned, they gave no difficulty as
+subjects. With the women it was different, and full half a day was taken
+in getting together our twenty-five types; not but what there were
+plenty of them, for our second day at Pantepec was market-day, and the
+_plaza_ was gay with women, but they did not wish to be measured, and
+the whole town force, from _presidente_ to the meanest _topil_, was
+afraid to meddle with them; at first, too, we had none but the most
+wretched cases, women broken down and worn out with years of labor. When
+nearly half our number had passed through our hands, and all presented
+this same unsatisfactory type, we were forced to make a sharp
+remonstrance, and only so did we get fair samples of young and
+middle-aged women.
+
+At Pantepec the centre of the town is _mestizo_; the Indians consist of
+Otomis, of whom there are thirty households, and Totonacs forming the
+bulk of the population. It is easy to distinguish the women of the two
+tribes by the difference in dress. The _quichiquemils_ are particularly
+picturesque. Both are more heavily loaded with embroidery than any
+Indian garments we had ever seen, but the styles of the two decorations
+are completely different. The _quichiquemils_ of the Otomis are smaller
+and completely covered with red and black embroidery; those of the
+Totonacs are much larger, and portions of the white foundations
+may still be seen, notwithstanding the heavy patterns in brilliant
+colors--red, green, yellow and blue. Mothers put babies onto one side,
+with their little legs astride a hip, and then tie them firmly in place
+with an _ayate_, or carry-cloth, of cotton, thus leaving their hands
+free for work or other burdens. If we had difficulty measuring the
+Totonac women, we had still greater difficulty in photographing
+satisfactory groups of them. Neither pleadings nor bribes on our part,
+orders nor threats on the part of the officials, had much influence.
+
+Pantepec is a large town, situated near the edge of the great mountain
+mass, and looking across a valley, which is backed by what appears to be
+a flat-topped, straight-edged, table mountain. The houses of the town
+are scattered over a considerable area upon the slope. The walls are of
+poles, heavily daubed with mud which is neatly and smoothly laid on. The
+corners of this mud covering are rounded, instead of angular, as usual
+elsewhere. The thatch is heavy and firm, and squarely cut along its
+lower edge, where it projects far beyond the walls. The _plaza_ is above
+the town-house, and is extremely ugly; a kiosk, which certainly can
+lay no claim to beauty, stands in the centre; ugly shacks, used as
+_tiendas_, border a part of it along the main road. Striking, at this
+time, in the village were the _colorin_ trees, some of which occurred
+in almost every enclosure; they were in bloom, and had long, slender,
+flaming-red, cigarette-shaped flowers, which appeared before the leaves,
+from trunks that were gnarled and brown and almost branchless. Many
+popular _danzas_ are celebrated here, but none was taking place during
+our stay. San Gregorio, the town of paper-making, is not far from
+Pantepec, and large quantities of the bark paper are beaten in the
+little village of Ixcoyotla, which belongs to this _municipio_. Asking
+an old Otomi whether he knew about this paper, he answered us, with
+great cunning, that we probably knew as much of it as he did. He finally
+condescended to state that the _munecos_ of it were used in curing
+disease; that anyone who has a disease secures one of these _munecos_
+and applies it to the diseased part. The _presidente_ insisted that this
+paper was not made from _jonote_, but from _uli_, and that formerly it
+was much used in making strong and durable belts.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+In starting back the next morning, we went down a different slope from
+the one by which we had come, with the result that we had to cross
+the stream five times more than before, making the full forty-four
+crossings, of which we had been warned by Culin while we were at
+Huehuetla. We made our way leisurely, stopped when we pleased, and at
+one point noticed a cave, which we had not seen before, just across the
+stream, at a point where it was at its deepest. The cave was so near the
+water's edge, that it could only be approached from the stream. The boys
+swam across and entered it to see if perchance they might find some of
+the paper figures used in _bruheria_. They found little of interest
+within; the walls and rocks were marked with crosses, and on the floor
+were hundreds of little sticks cut to various lengths. We were glad,
+indeed, to reach Don Pablo's house, to eat his good supper, and to
+occupy his good beds. Before we went to bed, Dona Panchita suggested
+that we ought to see certain _munecos_ kept by a man named Diego, and
+used as idols by the village. Accordingly, she sent orders that the man
+should bring his _munecos_ to the house for us to see. To this request,
+he returned the proper reply, that he would not do so; that they would
+be offended; that they were not toys to be carried about at the nod and
+beck of everyone. This greatly increased our interest, and we arranged
+for a trip to his house. We first sent a messenger forward, with word
+that we were coming, and ordered him to stay there to see that Diego
+did not run away or hide the idols. After supper, Dona Panchita, our
+company, Mr. and Mrs. Culin, and one or two others, picked our way by
+moonlight across the stepping-stones and foot-bridge, up a trail by
+coffee groves along a purling brook-side. We were soon at the house, and
+after some hesitation, Diego led us to the Holy of Holies. The _munecos_
+were kept in a little house, which contained an altar built of boards,
+with fresh flowers for decoration. At the back of the altar, against the
+wall, were prints of Christian saints; on the altar were censers and an
+open bundle of _copal_. Two wooden boxes were at the right end of the
+altar, against the wall. These contained _munecos_ which, for some
+time, Diego hesitated to produce. Finally he took out an idol of rather
+fine-grained, brownish-gray stone; the head was large and infantile,
+with the Mongolian cast of countenance; its badly shaped and scrawny
+arms were raised so as to bring the hands together on the chest; the
+body was shapeless. This figure was clad in a suit of unbleached cotton,
+much too long and slender for it, and the arms of the _camisa_, and the
+legs of the _calzones_ hung limp. When we had duly admired this figure,
+a second was produced--a pottery female-head, fairly shaped, with no
+body to speak of; this had glass earrings fastened in the ears. Next, a
+small headless figure was brought out; it was old, though probably made
+after the Conquest, and we agreed that it represented a _padre_. Next
+was a simple pottery head. Last was a figure, with small head and
+pointed cap, made apparently of pottery; the body had been pieced out to
+disproportionate length with wood, and ended in a pair of wooden feet;
+this was dressed in black velvet, and wore a black hat. These, Diego
+asserted, were all he had. After having expressed our delight with them,
+and our regret that we had not known what we were to see, that we might
+have brought with us some fine white _copal_ as incense for these gods,
+we set them up in a straight line on the edge of the altar to make a
+flashlight picture. As we left, we gave Diego two _reales_ to spend for
+the benefit of his gods. After we left, we were assured that he had
+finer ones of black stone, which he dresses in red, but we were content
+with the ones we had seen. These figures are particularly used on
+September 16th, San Miguel's day. They are also used at sowing-time, at
+harvest, and at the first cutting of sugar-cane. On these occasions,
+incense and candles are burned, the idols are taken in the hands, and to
+the sound of music, worshippers move the figures, causing them to dance.
+Pleased with this, they give good rains to the faithful worshippers.
+When there is too much rain, they go in procession to the river, playing
+music and dancing dolls; when arrived, they peg down many _ayates_ and
+sacks, made for the purpose, into the water against the flow. These are
+dams, to stay the flood. On the other hand, when there is drought, a
+procession carries the idols to a cave, where a feast is given and a
+dance, with wands of flowers carried in the hands, indulged in.
+
+Though the price for animals from Huehuetla to Las Tortugas was
+exorbitant, we had agreed to pay it--but told the man that, if he left
+later than six, it should be cut two dollars. It was long after eight
+before they appeared, and then it was only our own animals that were
+ready. We were forced to leave the packing to be done by the man himself
+without direction; we ourselves hurried along the trail, hardly stopping
+at San Bartolo on the way, arriving at Tenango at 4:15. Our animals
+were fagged, and we were soaked to the skin, having travelled through
+_nublina_ most of the afternoon. Don Pablo received us with his usual
+courtesy, and had arranged for us to sleep at the same house, where we
+had been before. At bed-time, our man with the mules had not appeared,
+and we had received most contradictory and discouraging statements
+regarding him. He had started at nine with two mules and left half our
+stuff for another day; he had been seen at the river near San Bartolo
+with two mules heavily loaded, unable to proceed; he had concluded to
+stop at San Bartolo for the night, to push on to Tenango the next day,
+and reach Las Tortugas on the third. Dissatisfied and uncertain, we went
+to bed; still, we determined to leave at five, and so gave orders to
+our _mozo_. We rose at 4:15 and the horses were ready before five.
+Contradictory stories were again told us regarding our animals. Some
+said the man had passed with them at five o'clock; others that he had
+not yet come; others that he had spent the night at Santa Maria. Our
+foot _mozo_ did not come, and sending the rest ahead, I waited for him.
+Hardly had they started, when Ramon galloped back to announce that the
+man was in town, that he had three animals and was nearly ready to
+leave. As he, himself, had told us that he must leave Tenango at three
+in order to reach Las Tortugas in time for the train, this was not
+reassuring. Ramon hastened on with the party. At six the _mozo_ appeared
+and started at once. In a few minutes we passed our _arriero_ who was
+packing, but not ready to start. I urged him to hasten, but did not
+wait. Mist had settled during the night, but it was now rising, and we
+could see the scenery, which, in wildness and beauty, was almost the
+equal of anything in Mexico, though with a character quite its own. Our
+trail ran along the side of a precipice; to our left rose great cliffs
+presenting almost vertical faces of smooth rock; the summits were
+jagged, and suggested that the mass consisted of stratified rocks tilted
+up on end. Just as we left town, two narrow and lofty parallel rocks
+suggested a gate-way. Further down, a mass was worn out into a sharp
+column, a little separated from the rock mass behind. On the right, was
+the precipice, ever abrupt, and sometimes the almost vertical bank of a
+yawning chasm. After an hour and a half over the fairly good road, we
+came to a grand ascent. It was magnificent, though difficult. In some
+spots the road was muddy, and at others it was a series of rough stone
+steps; at still others, it was the unmodified bed of a mountain torrent.
+As we followed up this gorge, side-gorges joined it, in which we
+glimpsed pretty cascades, pits worn by little falls, trees, the trunks
+of which were covered with thick sheets of green moss, quantities of
+tree-ferns blighted by the late frost, cliffs, and wild forms of rock,
+in wonderful variety. At last I reached the summit and overtook Manuel,
+whose horse was completely fagged, and who had been forced to drop
+behind; for some time we saw the others before us, but somewhere they
+took a different trail, and we saw them no more. After a considerable
+descent, we made our final but easy rise. From here we were on a level
+road, which constantly improved until near Mepetec, while beyond it, we
+came to a true cart-road. From here a fine view presented itself, over
+a forest of pine trees to the clean brown plain so typical of Hidalgo,
+swept, as we soon found, by the equally typical Hidalgo wind. We rode
+rapidly from the _herreria_ of the Trinidad to Metepec, and then to Las
+Tortugas, where we arrived at 11:40, having been five hours and a half
+upon the road. To our surprise, Louis and Ramon were not there. Having
+waited some time, as it was almost the hour for the train, we ordered
+dinner for two, but before we had begun to eat the others appeared.
+They had taken a short road, which did not go by Metepec, and travelled
+slowly that we might overtake them. After a good meal, we waited for
+our man with the pack animals. Meantime the train was preparing, and we
+watched it, realizing that if we missed it, we had a day of dust and
+scorching sun and heavy wind before us. The train's crew made all ready,
+the cry of "_Vamonos_" was given, and we settled down in desperation to
+await our tardy man. An hour after the train left, he arrived, received
+his fee less the two dollars, and started homeward. Twenty-three hours
+later we took the train, and our season's work was done.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXI
+
+IN THE HUAXTECA
+
+(1901)
+
+
+The scenery on the Tampico branch was at its best, as there had been
+recent rains, and everything was fresh and green. At Tampico, we
+resisted the attractions of the hotels "where Americans always stop,"
+and went to the unpretentious Pan Cardo. Here we were comfortably
+located, and early the next morning tried to define our plans. We were
+in uncertainty as to what towns we should visit in order to examine
+the Huaxtecs. The ancient Huaxtecs were among the most interesting of
+Mexican tribes. They are a northern offshoot of that great family, of
+which the Maya of Yucatan is the type. The linguistic relationship is
+evident upon the most careless comparison. The ancient area occupied
+by the Huaxtecs was near the Gulf of Mexico, and on both sides of the
+Panuco River, near the mouth of which some of their important centres
+were located. To-day Mexicans divide the Huaxteca into two parts,--the
+Huaxteca Veracruzana and the Huaxteca Potosina--the former in the state
+of Vera Cruz, the latter in the state of San Luis Potosi. At first,
+we thought to visit the latter, but the difficulty of reaching it was
+presented so forcibly, and the ease of reaching the Huaxteca Veracruzana
+so emphasized, that we determined upon the latter, and selected the town
+of Ozuluama for our central point. We could go by canoes across the
+river to Pueblo Viejo, where we could secure horses for the further
+journey. We were led to believe that it would be easy to make the trip
+in a single day. We had arranged for a canoe over night. It belonged in
+Pueblo Viejo, and it was to come over early in the morning; we were at
+the wharf at six, ready to start, but no canoe was in sight. Not only
+so, but a norther was blowing, and comforters, lounging on the wharf
+assured us that no canoe would come from Pueblo Viejo until the storm
+ceased, which would not be for twenty-four hours. We were loath to
+believe this information, and brought all our baggage from the various
+storing-places, where we had left it, out onto the wharf. Time passed;
+the norther continued, and no canoe from Pueblo Viejo came. Thinking
+that it might be possible to secure a canoe from here to Pueblo Viejo,
+we dickered with a boatman at the wharf. We had agreed to pay for the
+canoe ordered $1.00 for the journey, which was something more than the
+regular price. The man with whom we now were talking declared that he
+would not take us across for less than $3.50. We were on the point of
+yielding to necessity, when a rival appeared and offered to do the work
+for $2.50. Such is human perversity that we now insisted that he must
+go for $2.00, which he finally agreed to do. Hurrying away to get his
+canoe, he soon appeared, and our hearts sank. The man who had demanded
+$3.50 had a large, well-built boat, which should stand any wind and
+water. The man whom we had engaged had a canoe so narrow, low, and small
+that we doubted his ability to perform his contract; however, he assured
+us that all would be well, and showed himself so skilful in packing our
+stuff into his boat, that we ourselves embarked, and started down the
+little lagoon in his canoe. So long as we remained in this narrow,
+sheltered stream, all was well; but when he poled from its mouth out to
+the open river, we found it a different matter. More than this, we saw
+two or three canoes dancing over the white caps, and managed with great
+difficulty, although not loaded. The courage of our boatman was a little
+dashed; he suggested that we leave Ramon, Louis, and Manuel on an old
+scow standing on the bank and fast going to ruin, while he poled myself
+and the luggage over, after which he would return for my companions.
+This seemed good sense, and the boys were left behind. It was
+interesting to see the skill with which the man handled our rather
+awkward craft, loaded at it was almost to the water's edge. He had no
+motive power but his long pole. We did not ship a single drop of water,
+and at last entered the quiet, broad, canal-like lagoon on the other
+side of the river. A moment more, and we were unloading our luggage onto
+the shore. To do this, we were forced to wade through mud up to the
+knees. But at last all was safe, and with his empty canoe, our boatman
+started merrily back for his other passengers. When they arrived, only
+a few minutes were necessary for reloading the canoe, and we started up
+the lagoon. Little side lagoons opened frequently into the one through
+which we passed. At their mouths were V-shaped weirs of stakes, driven
+into the bottom and wattled together with flexible twigs. These were
+open at the mouth, and in the openings were set dip-nets, which could
+be lowered into the water. Just now, with the heavy norther blowing,
+thousands of _camaron_ (shrimps) were driven into the nets, and at each
+one we saw fishermen busily occupied. The lagoon abounded in water-birds
+of many kinds, and hardly had we entered it, when Louis shot a pretty,
+small white heron.
+
+Believing that the owner of animals to whom we had been referred was
+demanding too high a price for his horses and mules, we decided to see
+what the town authorities would do for us, and went to the _municipio_.
+The _presidente_ told us, with delight, that the _jefe politico_ of
+Ozuluama was there with his family, rusticating, and at once summoned
+him to meet us. He was a gentlemanly fellow, who told us that the price
+demanded was regular, but advised us to travel in a different way.
+"Here," he said, "you can get a large canoe; starting now, you can
+travel all night; reaching La Llave in the early morning, you can get
+horses and go the seven leagues remaining comfortably. Take a little
+something to eat before you start, and carry something for the way."
+This seemed an opportunity for a new experience, and, though the price
+was little, if any, less than we were asked to pay for animals, we
+decided to try it. Arrangements were begun at once, breakfast ordered,
+and a light lunch prepared for carrying. Meantime, the _jefe_ told us
+that there were few Indians in Ozuluama, but that in Citlaltepec we
+would find abundance. He gave us orders to his _secretario_, who
+represented him during his absence, and bade us god-speed. We left at
+one o'clock, in a great canoe, a heavy, timber-framed boat, propelled
+by long poles, by oars in quiet and deep water, and by a clumsy sail. A
+framework of poles, covered with matting, roofed over the middle of the
+boat, and a piece of matting was spread upon the floor. Hanging blankets
+to shelter ourselves from the heavy wind yet blowing, we busied
+ourselves variously, the boys skinning birds which they had shot, and I
+making up my various notes. The lagoon which we now entered was a large
+stretch of open water. We raised our sail, and made easy work. Having
+crossed the large lagoon, we entered the mouth of what probably would be
+considered a fair-sized river, which at first was closely bordered by a
+tangle of trees and vines, and presented a truly tropical appearance.
+Palms were abundant, and, here and there, one of unusual size towered
+high above the rest. The other trees were densely hung with long gray
+moss. Now and then, we disturbed alligators along the banks, and we were
+told that snakes were abundant in the grass. The quantity of water-birds
+was astonishing--great and small white herons, large blue herons, little
+blue herons, the curious, dark wry-necks, and ducks by thousands. The
+positions and attitudes of these long-necked and long-legged birds, in
+the water and on the trees, were curious and striking. The boys kept
+busy shooting and skinning birds all the afternoon. In the evening, the
+men built a fire with charcoal in a tin-lined box in the end of the
+canoe, and toasted _tortillas_ and made coffee. The awning was scarcely
+large enough to cover the whole party comfortably, when we lay down
+to sleep, but we wrapped up in blankets and spread mats for beds. We
+suffered intensely with the cold, sleeping little. At five o'clock our
+boat came to a stop along the bank, and at six it was light enough to
+disembark and explore. Climbing up a little bank of clay, we found
+ourselves on a flat meadow, covered with grass and weeds, through which
+narrow trails ran to a few scattered palm-thatched huts. With a letter
+from the _jefe_, we called at Senora Mora's house. This lady was a
+widow, whose husband had but lately died; she was well to do, and
+promised to supply us with animals after we should have had our
+breakfast. This was long preparing, but at last good coffee, fine
+_enchiladas_ and cheese were served, and, after eating heartily, we
+found six animals ready for us. When we asked for our account, the good
+lady replied that the bill was $2.00. It was plain that she had made no
+charge for either breakfast or animals, but only something for the
+boys whom she sent along to bring back the beasts. At about eleven, we
+started on what was called seven leagues, but what was certainly the
+longest nine leagues we had travelled for a long time. We had excellent
+horses that kept up a steady jog. Still, it was after five when we
+reached Ozuluama. The journey was for the most part over a _llano_,
+thicket-covered and sprinkled, here and there, with groves of palm;
+the soil was dark clay, which in spots, wet by recent rains, was hard
+travelling for the animals. We caught sight of the town, prettily
+located upon a hill-slope, about an hour before we reached it. From it,
+we looked out over an extensive stretch of dark green plains, broken,
+here and there, by little wooded hillocks, none of them so large as that
+upon which Ozuluama itself is situated. Riding to the town-house,
+the _secretario_ was at once sent for. He ordered supper, and put a
+comfortable room, behind the office, at our disposal. On the back porch,
+just at our door, was chained a tiger-cat. It belonged to the _jefe_,
+and was a favorite with his little children, but since they had been
+gone, it had been teased until it had developed an ugly disposition. It
+was a beautiful little creature, graceful in form and elegantly spotted.
+But it snarled and strove to get at everyone who came near it. The
+_secretario_ at once told us that Citlaltepec was not the point we ought
+to aim for, as it was purely Aztec; our best plan was to go to Tamalin,
+where we would find one congregation of Huaxtecs. From there, if we
+needed further subjects, we might go to Tancoco, although it did not
+belong to this district, but to that of Tuxpan. In the course of our
+conversation, I was reminded that Ozuluama is the home of Alejandro
+Marcelo, a full-blooded Huaxtec, who once published a book upon the
+Huaxtec language. Expressing an interest in meeting this man, he was
+sent for. He is far older than I had realized, celebrating his 74th
+birthday that very week. He was a man of unusual intelligence and most
+gentle manner. At nine o'clock next morning, supplied with new animals,
+we started for Tamalin, said to be thirteen leagues distant. We were
+well mounted, and the journey was much like that of the preceding day.
+For three hours we were impressed with the loneliness of the road; no
+people were to be seen anywhere. Here and there, set far back from the
+road, were country houses. The road itself was an extremely wide one,
+cut through a woods, which consisted for the most part of low and
+scrubby trees, with scattered clumps of palm trees here and there.
+Usually the trail was single, but where we came on mud patches, many
+little trails were distributed over the whole breadth of the road. Here
+and there, where there were particularly bad spots, into which our
+horses would have sunk knee-deep, we were forced to take trails back
+among the trees. While the earlier part of the journey was through
+rolling country, we came at noon into a true plain, though wooded. We
+found many cross roads, broad and straight, cut through the woods, and
+were impressed by the great number of dry _barrancas_ into which we
+had to descend, and out of which we had to climb. Most of these were
+actually dry, but many of them contained a dirty pool of stagnant water.
+At many places, the road was bordered with plants, the leaves of which
+somewhat resembled those of the pineapple. They were light green in
+color, narrow and long-pointed at the upper end, and spiny along the
+sides. This plant, named _guamara_, bears spikes of yellow fruits which
+are pointed at the upper end, but in color, size, texture, structure and
+taste reminded us of podophyllum, though it leaves a prickly sensation
+in the mouth, much like that produced by fresh pineapples. There were
+also many trees bearing little limes or lemons, of which we gathered
+abundance for making lemonade. At two o'clock our man pointed out a
+ranch-house near the road, in front of which two men sat eating, and
+told us we could procure food and drink there if we wished, and that we
+had plenty of time for stopping. We found the men at the table to be the
+parish priest of Tantima and his servant. The priest informed us that
+Tamalin was three and three-fourths leagues away, while Tantima was
+four. The road for the greater part of the distance to the two places
+was the same. We had an interesting conversation with the good priest,
+and for the first time we met the curious prejudice, which exists
+throughout this portion of the Huaxteca, against the Huaxtecs, and in
+favor of the Aztecs. We were kept waiting some little time for our
+dinner, but by three o'clock were again upon our way. Just as we
+started, we crossed the first true stream which we had met, but during
+the balance of the journey we crossed one or two others. Soon, leaving
+the main road, we bore off to the left, and found several bad spots of
+stiff black mud, into which our poor animals sank frightfully. After
+five o'clock we saw, from the slope on which we were, for we had left
+the _llano_ and were again in rolling country, a little village, and
+higher and further to the left, a second. The first of these was
+Gutierrez Zamora, which is Huaxtec, with a few Mexican families living
+at one side; the second was our destination, Tamalin. We passed through
+Gutierrez at six, and reached Tamalin at seven.
+
+The _alcalde_ of the village was not there; in fact, we suspect that
+he but rarely is. The _secretario_, likewise, was absent. We finally
+prevailed upon his brother to help us to find an indian girl to cook our
+meals, and a room in the _secretario's_ house. In this room there was
+but a single bed and our helper thought me very particular in demanding
+that _petates_ should be brought as beds for my companions. He assured
+us that, when he traveled, he slept upon the floor, without _petates_.
+It was long after 10 o'clock before we had supper and secured a
+resting-place. We had planned to push out from here the following
+morning; no sign, however, of our baggage had appeared, and we were
+forced to spend two days at Tamalin waiting for its coming. Here, too,
+we found that there were no Huaxtecs, the town being, so far as it was
+indian, purely Aztec. We decided, therefore, to try Tancoco, returning,
+if need be, to Gutierrez. Both Gutierrez and Tancoco were in the
+district of Tuxpan. Fortunately, we still carried our last year's letter
+from the governor of Vera Cruz to serve us with the local authorities,
+as it would be most inconvenient to go to Tuxpan for orders. Seeing
+that it was impossible to leave that day, I walked in the afternoon to
+Tantima to visit the priest. Between the two towns rises a fine, high
+rock hill. The ascent from Tamalin was in three slopes, with short
+levels between; the crest was but a few yards wide; the descent to
+Tantima was abrupt and short. From the summit we looked down upon the
+pretty, level, enclosed valley occupied by a rather regular town, built
+about a large plaza which, the day being a market day, was gay with
+booths and people. I met almost the whole population of Tamalin on my
+way over, as they returned from market. All the men were drunk; some
+were so helpless that they sprawled upon the road, while others were
+being helped by their more sober comrades. I reached the plaza just
+thirty-seven minutes after leaving Tamalin, and at once telegraphed to
+Ozuluama about the baggage. When I inquired for the priest's house, the
+telegraph operator informed me that the _padre_ had told him all about
+us and our errand and that he would accompany me to the _curato_.
+Crossing the square, we found the _padre_ living in a comfortable place,
+close by the great, pretentious, stone church. We were warmly welcomed,
+and orders were at once given for coffee. The Aztec servant hastened to
+bring some, piping hot, and was quite abashed at being sharply reproved
+for offering it directly to me. No, indeed, a gentlemen so distinguished
+was not to be thus served; the table was moved up before my chair, a
+clean cloth spread, sweet cakes were sent for, a glass of fresh milk
+placed, and then the coffee was set upon the table. Thus, in solitary
+grandeur, I sat and ate and drank, while the priest and operator took
+their cups of coffee in their hands. Though we had ordered horses for
+the following morning, the baggage had not come, and we waited all the
+day. Strolling around the village, we found it a pretty place, through
+which ran a fine stream, separating the houses into groups or clusters.
+It is a true Aztec town, and the houses are well-constructed. Several
+houses are set irregularly within a single enclosure; the walls are
+built of poles set upright, but these are so heavily daubed with a
+mixture of mud and chopped straw that they are strong and durable. In
+applying this daub, the hand is used, and a simple block of wood of
+rectangular form, with a projecting edge extending midway of the upper
+side, is used as a trowel for spreading it, and giving it a smooth
+finish. The thatchings are thick, and project far beyond the walls; they
+are of palm, and neatly cut at the edges; a cresting, thin, but evenly
+placed and firmly pegged down, projects over the ridge, down either
+slope, and its edges form the only break in the smooth surface. Many of
+the houses had _temascals_, differing considerably from those of Puebla
+and Tlaxcala. They are rectangular; the walls are built of poles,
+set upright, close together, and strengthened by being lashed to a
+horizontal timber set midway of their height. The roof is a round vault
+or arch of poles set lengthwise. The whole is neatly plastered over with
+a mixture of mud and chopped straw, and in the front a cross is worked
+in the clay mixture, to insure good fortune. The women here wove cotton
+in the usual indian fashion, but few wore the old dress, and those few
+were mostly aged. We noticed quantities of pottery here, and throughout
+the Huaxteca, but none of it is local in manufacture. Most of it has
+come from the two towns, Huejutla, an Aztec town, and Panuco. We were
+forced to spend a third night at Tamalin. The _secretario_ had been at
+home for two days and had fairly done his duty; still, our animals were
+late when we were ready to start the following morning, and we were not
+off until 9:30. It was a steady climb, over a long series of ascents,
+until we reached a crest from which Tancoco could be seen. We made
+a long descent and then a little upward climb to the town, which is
+notable for its cleanliness and the industry and cleanness of its
+inhabitants. The town is situated upon a little hill, from which one
+looks out on a sea of green forests, with little rocky hillocks covered
+with trees rising from it, here and there, like wooded islands. Between
+us and Tamalin rose a semi-circle of ridges, sweeping from us off to the
+left and forward in the distance. In front, near the top of this curve
+of ridges, two leagues distant, lay Amatlan, clear and impressive, from
+this point. Riding up to the little town-house, which had a portico
+enclosed by a neat railing and supplied with pine benches, we
+dismounted, and, with some doubt as to its reception, presented our old
+letter. The _secretario_ was an intelligent _mestizo_ from Tuxpan. He
+sent at once for the _alcalde_, who was a good-natured, little Huaxtec,
+of pure blood, thoroughly dependent upon his subordinate officer. We
+were promised everything. The schoolhouse, remarkably clean, was put
+at our disposal, and a messenger was sent to notify an old woman named
+Guadelupe that she was to prepare our meals. Before four o'clock, work
+was under way, and during the two days that we remained, there were no
+difficulties. The houses of the town are somewhat like those of Tamalin,
+but less well built. The single industry is the weaving of hats from
+palm. On the house-roofs, and on the ground before the houses, palm was
+drying. Some of the work was extremely delicate, and the four grades of
+hats sell for from four pesos upward. Men, women and children are all
+occupied in the manufacture, and as they sit in their houses or at the
+door of an evening, or as they walk through the village on errands,
+their hands are ever busily occupied with the plaiting. There is
+absolutely nothing characteristic in dress, both men and women dressing
+like _mestizos_ in the important cities of the Republic. Almost every
+one wears shoes; women, those with high French heels. A resident tailor
+makes the bulk of the clothing for the more particular men of the
+town. In our school-room we were supplied with good kerosene lamps, an
+experience almost unique. Few, if any, of the houses in the village
+were without the same mode of light. Many, if not all, of the women had
+sewing-machines.
+
+[Illustration: VIEW AT TANCOCO]
+
+We were more than ever impressed with the anomalous condition of these
+people in their own land. They were the cleanest, most industrious, best
+dressed and most progressive indians whom we had seen in any part of
+Mexico; but in the Huaxteca, the land which bears their name, they are
+being crowded by the less progressive Aztecs. _Mestizos_ and Aztecs both
+speak of them with contempt, and treat them like dogs. As for their
+language, it is neglected and despised; while many of them know both
+Spanish and Aztec, neither _mestizo_ nor Aztec considers it worth while
+to know a word of Huaxtec. While we had no trouble with the men, we
+began to feel that the women would fail us. It was after five o'clock,
+the last day of our stay, before a single one appeared. Then they came
+in a body, accompanied by the full town force, and each with her husband
+as a guard, to our quarters. They were dressed in their best calico,
+muslin, silk and satin, with laces and artificial flowers, earrings,
+necklaces, and with shoes the heels of which measured from thirty to
+thirty-five millimeters. They were perfumed; their hair was heavily
+oiled with odorous greases. Each shook hands with our whole party,
+greeted us politely, and sat down on the long school-benches, waiting
+for her turn for measurement. Notwithstanding this rather oppressively
+lady-like mode of procedure, we were assured by old Guadelupe that our
+errand and work in the town had caused much terror and doubt, the women
+particularly feeling sure that it boded ill. It was said that they
+recalled the fact that years ago certain of their old men predicted that
+strangers would eventually come to the village, who would bewitch the
+people and destroy the town. It was commonly believed that we were now
+fulfilling this prediction.
+
+The physical type of the Huaxtecs seems to be well marked. A peculiar
+gray tint underlies the brown color of the skin. The head is short,
+broad, and curiously compressed behind; the eyes are wide apart, and
+frequently oblique; the mouth is large, with thick but not projecting
+lips.
+
+We had planned to leave about the middle of the afternoon, and at 3:50
+the best animals we have ever had were ready for our use. A magnificent
+horse, the special pride of the _alcalde_ himself, was put at my
+disposal. When we came to settle for the animals, all payment was
+refused, their use being the voluntary offering of the town officials.
+The animals made nothing of the journey, and within an hour and a half
+we had again reached Tamalin.
+
+We found that Aztec town as disagreeable as ever. Solemn promises had
+been made that various _danzas_ should be ready for us, and that there
+should be no delay regarding animals. Of course, we found nothing doing.
+The only satisfactory memory connected with the town is our cook,
+Porfiria. She was a master hand, and with training, should make a
+reputation and a fortune. A pure indian, we would rather eat at her
+table than at that of any half-breed cook in all that section. She
+always had quantities of food, and no two meals were alike. Unless we
+expressly ordered something we had had before, it is doubtful whether
+she would have repeated a single dish. Her _enchiladas_, seasoned with
+cheese and onions, were the best we ever had, and after the first
+experience, we insisted on having them at every meal. Her masterpieces
+were in simple maize. Her _tortillas_ were good, but _tortillas_ one
+finds everywhere; she served _cocoles, chavacanes_, and _pemol. Cocoles_
+are round, flat biscuits or cakes of maize, a couple of inches across
+and half an inch in diameter; they contain shortening, and when served
+hot, are delicious. _Chavacanes_ are thin, flat square crackers of
+corn-meal with shortening and eggs; they are good even when cold, but
+are best when hot from the griddle. _Pemol_ is a corn-cake, crumbly,
+sweet, and baked; it contains sugar and shortening, and is made up into
+the form of rather large cakes, shaped like horse-collars.
+
+As the result of vigorous remonstrance, the _secretario_ really had the
+_danza_ of _los Negros_ at his house that night. Music was furnished by
+_pito_ and _huehuetl_. The two performers, one representing a Spaniard
+and the other a negro, were masked. The action was lively, and the
+dialogue vociferous--both players frequently talking at once. The dance
+was kept up until nearly ten o'clock, after which, as we planned an
+early start, we were soon in bed. Just as we were dropping off to sleep,
+we heard the whistling and roaring of the norther outside, and the cold
+air found its way through every crack into our room. From our house the
+musicians and the dancers had gone to the _syndico's_, where they stayed
+some time; but, between one and two in the morning, they came back to
+our house and played in the room next to ours, with the door wide open.
+Our interest was not great enough to lead us forth again. Finally they
+left, but at four o'clock the musicians, now quite drunk, appeared
+again, and for a long time the _secretario_, his lady, and the
+school-master, danced in lonely grandeur up and down the room.
+
+[Illustration: OUR CANOE FOR SIXTY HOURS; THE LAGOONS]
+
+[Illustration: MANGROVE ROOTS]
+
+Don Leandro, the _secretario_, had promised to accompany us the
+following morning as far as San Geronimo. We had decided to go on
+horseback to Paso Real, a little distance beyond San Geronimo, and there
+take boat for Tampico. When morning came, we expressed surprise over Don
+Leandro's charging rent, in addition to the rather large price which we
+had already paid for beds. This seemed to hurt his sensitive feelings,
+with the result that we started without his company. The ride was
+monotonous, over a road which made few ascents or descents, and
+presented little of variety or interest. Little green hills bordered
+the road on either side, and on many of them were ranch-houses, some of
+rather good construction. In a little stream over which we passed, we
+saw a great idol's head, of stone, a foot or more across, and well
+made. San Geronimo we found to be the comfortable country-house of the
+_alcalde_ of Tamalin and all the ranches among which we had made our
+journey. It was a fine old place, with high airy rooms, good verandas,
+and an old-fashioned tile roof. Our journey had been hot, and we found a
+fine breeze blowing through the house. The _alcalde_ knew all about
+our errand and was ready to be helpful. He was a tall, slender,
+mild-mannered and polite _mestizo_. After we had eaten, he rode with us
+to Paso Real to arrange about a boat and point out various objects of
+interest on the way. _Chapapote_, from which chewing gum is made, is an
+important product here, and among those interested in it as a business
+is an American dentist. We saw many birds, among which doves were
+conspicuous; the _alcalde_ says that six or eight species occur here,
+the different kinds singing at different seasons; one of them had a
+peculiarly sad and mournful song, and is heard in the early morning.
+Another bird, the _primavera_, seems to be like our mockingbird,
+imitating the notes and cries of many other birds and animals. At two
+places we passed black lines of foraging ants, and he told us that
+insects, frogs, toads, and even snakes, encountered by these lines, are
+helpless, being promptly overcome and devoured. Arrived at Paso Real,
+the _alcalde_ arranged for our boat. He told us that loaded boats
+require three days for making the journey to Tampico, but that ours,
+being empty, would probably go through in twenty-four hours. The boat he
+arranged for had been partly loaded, but its owner had agreed to unload
+in order to receive us. As a favor to him, we consented to permit five
+or six not large boxes to go along. Having ordered supper for us at the
+house upon the summit from which the road descended to Paso Real, the
+_alcalde_ left us. Supper was slow, but at last was over. Our baggage
+had already been carried to the boat, and we strolled down to take our
+passage. Less room was left for us than we had expected the boxes would
+leave, but it was dark and we raised no question. We waited an impatient
+hour for our canoemen to take their supper, being almost devoured by
+mosquitoes, but at last were off at nine o'clock. Our force consisted
+of two men and a little lad. It was with difficulty that two could
+be accommodated beneath the awning, and Manuel and I took our places
+outside. For my own part, sleep was impossible. Now that we were in
+motion, the mosquitoes ceased to trouble us. The stream was narrow, and
+on account of the curves, we were forced to move slowly. We floated out
+under and beneath bamboos, which hung far over the water and outlined
+themselves like lace-work against the sky. At first, there was
+moonlight. Later, the moon set, but the stars were brilliant. The early
+morning was cold, and a heavy dew dampened everything outside the
+awning. During the day our men stopped on every pretext to rest and
+sleep, and whenever we came to a considerable stretch of water, any sign
+of storm or cloud was heralded. Just before daybreak, we had reached the
+beginning of the first large lagoon. Here our sail was hoisted, though
+it was of little use, while we poled along near shore, following all the
+long curves. Our first stop, on account of a norther, was exciting; from
+the anxiety of the men, we expected to be instantly upset. We ran
+into the mouth of a little stream and lay to, and the men were almost
+instantly asleep. Our party went out exploring; our landing place was a
+heap of shells, whether artificial or natural I am not sure; the place
+was a favorite spot with hunters of caimans, or alligators, and we found
+numbers of almost complete skeletons and skulls lying on the banks. The
+boys picked up quantities of scales and teeth, and it was interesting to
+see how the new conical teeth grow up under the hollows of the old ones.
+We killed a duck or two for supper. One or two large caimans were seen,
+as we strolled along. Finally, I insisted upon the men starting again.
+We were traversing a system of great lagoons which opened one into
+another. Poling was our only mode of progress. That night Manuel and I
+occupied the shelter. When we rose, we found the great lagoon, through
+which we were then passing, quite different in its character from those
+preceding it. Thickets of mangroves bordered the shore; the display
+of aerial roots was interesting, and here we were able to examine the
+curious smooth tips of the roots which are to penetrate the soft mud
+bottom. We landed at one place to get wood and to catch a glimpse of
+the sea, whose roaring we had for hours heard. We left our boat in the
+lagoon, and walked a short distance over sand dunes, thickly grown with
+trees, to the beach, which only appeared in sight when we reached the
+top of the last dune. It was a gently sloping sandy stretch, upon which
+a fine surf was beating. There were no pebbles save bits of water-worn
+coral and shell. Quantities of sea-gulls were flying about and flocks of
+little snipe ran down over the retreating surf, catching food, turning
+and running rapidly in before the coming wave. A single shot into the
+flock killed thirty-one of the little creatures, which later in the day
+supplied us an excellent meal. From this lagoon of mangroves, we finally
+entered the great lagoon of La Riviera, which pretty town we passed a
+little before three o'clock. From here we knew that, by hiring horses,
+we could reach Tampico in two hours; had we really known what lay before
+us, we would have done so. Having passed La Riviera, we entered a narrow
+canal, bordered for the most part with tall, flat rushes and a great
+grass much like our wild rice. Here again we saw large herons and great
+kingfishers; the boys had repeatedly tried to shoot one of the latter
+birds, but with no success; finally, one was seen standing on the branch
+of a tree hanging over the stream; this one was shot, and when we picked
+it up, we found it to be curiously distorted, the breast being strangely
+swollen. When skinned, this swelling proved to be due to a fish which
+the bird had eaten, and which was almost as large as itself. Weighted
+with this heavy burden, it is no wonder that the bird had been shot so
+easily. At dusk we found ourselves at a landing-place, where we left the
+boxes, which turned out to be eight in number, each of which weighed one
+hundred and twenty-five pounds. They contained _chapapote_. Our men had
+talked much of _the_ canal, to which, for some time, we had been looking
+forward. At this landing, arrangements were made for helping us through
+the canal, a little canoe being despatched after us, to help unload us.
+When we reached the canal, narrow, shallow and straight, cut for the
+most part through the solid rock, the moon was shining brightly. Our
+great canoe was soon aground, and whole party, seven in number, climbed
+out into the water to push and pull. We dislodged it soon, but shortly
+came to a complete standstill. Here for the first time, we realized the
+cargo which we carried, which before had been carefully covered so that
+we really were in ignorance of it. Eighty half-dozen cakes of sugar were
+unloaded into the little canoe, which paddled away. We waited, noting
+with regret that the falling water, probably due to tide, was fixing our
+canoe more and more firmly in the mud. Finally, the little canoe came
+back, taking another eighty half-dozen cakes of sugar on board. Our
+canoe having been thus lightened, we made another effort to move it,
+and, after many struggles and groans, finally found ourselves in deeper
+water, embarked, and poled off. Having reached the place upon the bank
+where the canoe loads had been left, we stopped to freight again. To our
+surprise, we found here once more the eight boxes of _chapapote_, which,
+apparently, had been carted across. We were now able to calculate the
+load which our "empty" canoe, hired at thirty pesos, in order to take us
+quickly through to Tampico, was carrying:
+
+  120 dozen cakes of _panela_, of 2 lbs       2,880 lbs.
+  8 boxes _chapapote_, of 125 lbs             1,000 lbs.
+  6 sacks of beans, of 100 lbs                  600 lbs.
+
+            Total                             4,480 lbs.
+
+In other words, we had been crowded and delayed by more than two tons of
+cargo. Perhaps, had we been actually alone in the boat, it might have
+made its journey in the twenty-four hours promised, instead of the sixty
+of accomplishment. It was nine o'clock when we were again aboard, and we
+made the boatman travel all night long. At the stroke of half-past-three
+we heard the bells of Tampico, and drew up along the waterside-landing
+of that city. For two full hours we lay there, listening to the buyers
+bartering with the boatmen for their load of maize, _frijol_ and
+_panela_ until daylight, when we gave orders to unload.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXII
+
+IN MAYA LAND
+
+(1901)
+
+
+We had planned to go from Tampico to Chiapas, and from there to Yucatan,
+where we were to finish our work for the season. We found, however, that
+there was no certainty in regard to a boat for Coatzacoalcos, while the
+Benito Juarez was about to sail for Progreso the next day. Not to lose
+time, we decided to do our Yucatan work first, and to let Chiapas wait
+until later. We were busy that day making arrangements for departure,
+and in the afternoon hired a canoe to take our stuff from the wharf to
+the boat, which was standing out in the river, beyond Dona Cecilia.
+There was a brisk wind against us, and we almost arrived too late to
+have our luggage taken aboard. The next morning, we took the first train
+to Dona Cecilia, and were on board the boat at nine o'clock. We had been
+told that the sailing would take place at ten, but, on arrival, found
+that they were waiting for cattle which were being brought across
+country. One hundred and twenty head were to make our chief cargo, and
+they were expected at six a.m. Nothing, however, was to be seen of them
+in any direction. We had taken breakfast, and it was almost twelve
+o'clock before the first signs of the animals were to be seen. Meantime,
+at eleven, a norther appeared, and we were informed that it would be
+impossible to leave short of twenty-four hours. Besides our company,
+there were three first-class passengers--a sort of German-Austrian baron
+and his lady, and a contractor, who was taking a force of hands to
+Yucatan for farm labor. Eighty-three of these hands were our third-class
+passengers; they had been picked up all along the line of the Tampico
+Branch of the Central Railway, and few of them realized the hardships
+and trials which lay before them. We were assured that more than half of
+them would surely die before the end of their first year in Yucatan. As
+we could not leave until the norther passed, it was decided not to take
+the cattle on board until next day. Thus we spent a day as prisoners
+on the boat, standing in the river. In the morning the water was still
+rough and the wind heavy, but at 9:30 the loading of the animals began.
+They were brought out on a barge, about one-half of the whole number to
+a load; tackle was rigged and the creatures were lifted by ropes looped
+around their horns. The first few were lifted singly, but after that,
+two at once. While it sounds brutal, it is really a most convenient
+method, and the animals, though startled, do not seem to be injured in
+the least, nor indulge in much kicking. By 11:40 all were loaded and
+we were ready for our start. We had to wait until the customs-house
+inspector should come on board to discharge us, and this was not done
+until half-past one. We sailed out, between the jetties, at two o'clock,
+and found the Gulf rough, and a high wind, which continued through most
+of our voyage. The smell from the cattle was disagreeable, and between
+it and the roughness, all were seasick before the first afternoon was
+over.
+
+Captain Irvine is the youngest captain of the Ward Line, being but
+twenty-six years of age. He has followed the sea since he was thirteen
+years old. A Nova Scotian by birth, he has sailed this coast for some
+little time, and is a competent official, doing his utmost for the
+pleasure and convenience of his passengers. The journey was uneventful.
+There was some excitement among the third-class passengers, many of
+whom were drunk and quarrelsome. The first evening, two of them were
+fighting, with the result that the head of one was split open and had to
+be dressed by the captain. When we had been some forty-eight or fifty
+hours at sea, we found ourselves off the Campeche banks, in quieter
+water. Those who had suffered from sickness were again quite themselves.
+It was 4:30 Sunday morning, February 3, after we had been almost three
+days and three nights at sea, and four days on the boat, that the
+Progreso light was sighted, and not long after we came to anchor. We
+waited from six o'clock until almost ten for lighters and the doctor.
+After he had made his inspection, we piled off with all our baggage
+onto a little steamer, which charged three dollars, each passenger, for
+taking us to the pier, which was close by, and to which our own boat
+could easily have run. This, however, was but the beginning of Yucatecan
+troubles. When we found ourselves on the wharf, the customs officials
+insisted upon our going to the general office for inspection, on account
+of the character and amount of our luggage. Arrived there, we found that
+we had no clearing papers for our stuff, and forty dollars duty was
+required for material which had already paid duty in entering Mexico,
+and which had only gone from one Mexican port to another, as baggage. In
+vain we argued and attempted to explain matters. The officials advised
+us to bring the American consul and have him straighten matters; but his
+office was shut, as it was Sunday. Meantime, we saw the train, which we
+had expected to take at 11:30, leave for Merida, and at twelve o'clock
+the customs-house offices were closed, and we were forced to leave the
+business for another day. Fortunately, there are two railroads from
+Progreso to Merida, and we were able to take an afternoon train over the
+narrow-gauge line for the capital city. The station was an enormous,
+wooden, barn-like structure; the cars were weather-beaten and
+dilapidated to a degree--except the first-class car, which was in fair
+condition. Passengers were gathering, but no particular signs of the
+starting of a train were evident. Boys at the station were selling slabs
+of pudding, squares of sponge cake soaked with red liquor, pieces of
+_papaya_, cups of sweetened boiled rice, and oranges. The oranges were
+unexpectedly high in price, two selling for a _medio_; the seller pares
+off the yellow skins and cuts them squarely in two before selling; the
+buyer eats merely the pulp, throwing the white skin away. As train-time
+neared, interesting incidents occurred. The ticket-agent was drunk and
+picked a quarrel with a decent, harmless-looking indian; the conductor
+dressed in the waiting-room, putting on a clean shirt and taking off his
+old one, at the same time talking to us about our baggage-checks. A fine
+horse, frisky and active, was loaded into the same baggage-freight car
+with our goods. The bells were rung as signals, and the station locked;
+the whole management--ticket-agent, conductor and baggagemen--then got
+upon the train and we were off. At one of the stations the ticket-agent
+took his horse out from the car, and riding off into the country, we saw
+no more of him.
+
+[Illustration: LOADING CATTLE; DONA CECILIA]
+
+[Illustration: MAYAS, RETURNING FROM WORK; SANTA MARIA]
+
+The country through which we were running was just as I had imagined it.
+Though it was supposed to be the cold season, the day was frightfully
+hot, and everyone was suffering. The country was level and covered with
+a growth of scrub. There was, however, more color in the gray landscape
+than I had expected. Besides the grays of many shades--dusty trees,
+foliage, bark and branches--there were greens and yellows, both of
+foliage and flowers, and here and there, a little red. But everywhere
+there was the flat land, the gray limestone, the low scrub, the dust
+and dryness, and the blazing sun. There were many palm trees--chiefly
+cocoa-nut--on the country-places, and there were fields of hennequin,
+though neither so extensive nor well-kept as I had anticipated. It
+resembles the maguey, though the leaves are not so broad, nor do
+they grow from the ground; the hennequin leaves are long, narrow,
+sharp-pointed, and rather thickly set upon a woody stalk that grows
+upright to a height of several feet. The leaves are trimmed off, from
+season to season, leaving the bare stalk, showing the leaf-scar. The
+upper leaves continue to grow. In places we noticed a curious mode of
+protecting trees by rings of limestone rock built around them; many of
+these trees appear to grow from an elevated, circular earth mass. At
+Conkal, the great stone church magnificently represented the olden time,
+but it bore two lightning rods and was accompanied by two wind-mills of
+American manufacture. Everywhere, in fact, the American wind-mill is
+in evidence. One can but wish that the poor users of the old _cenotes_
+might come to life, and, for a little time, enjoy the work of the winds
+in their behalf. Everywhere we saw plenty of Maya indians and heard
+something of the old language. All travellers to Yucatan comment on the
+universal cleanness of the population; notable in the indians, this
+marks equally well the _mestizos_, whites and negroes. They are not
+only clean, but all are well dressed. Men wear low, round-crowned,
+broad-brimmed palm hats; trousers are rarely of the tight-fitting
+Mexican kind; indians who work at heavy labor protect their clean white
+shirts and drawers with a strip of stuff, like ticking, wrapped about
+them. Women wear two white garments, both ample, hanging from the neck,
+bordered with black or colored bands. They generally wear long necklaces
+or rosaries, the beads of which are spaced with gold coins, and a cross
+of gold or a medal of the same material hangs at the bottom. Women of
+middle age are usually stout, and march with quite a stately tread.
+
+Merida itself is much larger and better built than we had expected. Many
+of the houses, especially on the outskirts, are elliptical in section,
+and have walls of small stones closely set in mud plaster. In the center
+of the town the houses are covered with painted plaster and are in the
+usual Latin-American style. Great numbers of quaint little coaches, with
+a single horse, were waiting at the station. As we walked up to the
+center of the town, we found but few places open, practically nothing
+but barber-shops and drug-stores. Of both of these, however, there were
+a surprising number.
+
+Having been directed to the Hotel Concordia, we were disappointed when
+the old lady in charge stated that she had no rooms, and directed us
+across the way to the Hotel de Mexico. As we had arranged for the
+delivery of our stuff, we did not care to look elsewhere, and therefore
+inspected the rooms in this hotel. To reach them, we went through a
+barber-shop into a narrow _patio_, and, mounting some rickety stairs,
+found our quarters, which were filthy, vile-smelling, hot and uncared
+for. Yet for these choice quarters, with two beds in each of two rooms,
+leaving no space practically between, we were expected to pay four
+dollars. Upon remonstrating with the proprietor at the price demanded,
+he cooly said, "Oh, yes, everything here costs high; but there is money
+to pay it with." This really stated the fact. Conditions in Merida are
+the most abnormal of any place which I have visited. Owing to the war in
+the Philippines, and interference with the trade in hemp, the fiber
+of the hennequin is in great demand, and money is plentiful. At good
+restaurants each plate costs thirty cents, instead of ten or twelve, as
+in the City of Mexico itself. No coach will cross the street for less
+than fifty cents; for a cooling drink, such as in the capital city would
+cost three cents, one here pays twelve. The shortest street-car line
+charges ten cents; and everything else is in proportion. What the
+hotel-keeper said, about there being money to pay these frightful
+prices, was equally true. We paid _cargadors_ four times, draymen three
+times, more than we have ever done in any other part of Mexico. In the
+restaurants we saw _cargadors_ calling for plates at thirty cents,
+boot-blacks eating ices at one _real_, newsboys riding in coaches, and
+other astonishing sights. In the plaza, good music is played on Sunday
+nights, and every one is out in all his finery; fruits, sweetmeats,
+refreshing drinks, are hawked everywhere, and are much indulged in;
+under the corridors are little tables, where ices, iced milk and drinks
+are served. At the hotel we passed a night of horror, suffering from the
+heat, dust, ill-placed lights, mosquitoes and other insects. Leaving my
+companions I went the following morning to Progreso to attend to the
+unlucky baggage. For variety, I took the broad-gauge road, but found
+little difference in the country through which we passed. The number of
+wind-mills was astonishing, and most of them were Chicago aeromotors. At
+one station a great crowd of pure indians got off and on the train. The
+American consul at Progreso is too much interested in archaeology to be
+found at his office, but his Mexican vice-consul was present. To him
+our difficulty was explained, and on his advice we deposited the forty
+dollars demanded for duty, and signed various documents of remonstrance,
+upon which we paid almost four dollars more for stamps. We were then
+permitted to take out enough plates for immediate use, leaving the
+balance in Progreso until we should be ready for our return journey.
+
+Acting on the advice of the vice-consul, we changed quarters in Merida
+from the Hotel de Mexico, to the Moromuzo, kept by an American who had
+been many years in the country, and where, though we paid even more for
+rooms, we had some comfort. By industrious search, we found a Chinese
+restaurant, where prices were not high and service quite as good as in
+the aristocratic place where we had dined before. The day before we
+called at the palace, hoping to see the governor, though it was Sunday.
+He was out of town, and we were asked to call the following day.
+Accordingly, in the afternoon, after returning from Progreso, I repeated
+my call but was told that the governor had gone out of town again and
+that I should come the following day. The third day, again presenting
+myself at the office, I learned that it was a holiday and that the
+governor would not be at the palace; the secretary recommended that I
+try to see him at his house. To his house I went, and sending in my card
+and my letters from the Federal authorities was surprised, after having
+been kept waiting in the corridor, to be informed that the governor
+would not see me, and that I should call at the palace, the next day, in
+the afternoon, at two o'clock. Sending back a polite message that we had
+waited three whole days to see his excellency, and that our time was
+limited, my surprise was still greater at receiving the tart reply that
+he had stated when he would see me. We spent the balance of day and all
+the morning of the next, looking about the town.
+
+Having failed in my visit to Governor Canton, I took a street-car to
+Itzimna to see the bishop, to ask him for a letter to his clergy. The
+well-known Bishop Ancona had lately died, and the new incumbent was
+a young man from the interior of Mexico, who had been here but a few
+months. He had been ill through the whole period of his residence, and
+seemed frail and weak. He received me in the kindest way, and after
+reading the letters I presented, asked whether I had not been in Puebla
+at a certain time two years before; on my replying in the affirmative,
+he remarked that he had met me at the palace of the bishop of Puebla and
+had then learned of my work and studies. He gave me an excellent letter
+to his clergy, and as I left, with much feeling, he urged me to be
+careful of my health and that of my companions while we were in the
+country. When he came from Puebla, only a few months before, he brought
+three companions with him, all of whom had died of yellow fever. He told
+me that, though this was not the season for that dread disease, cases of
+it had already broken out in the city; at the same time he stated that
+more than eight hundred cases of small-pox were reported in Merida,
+and that many of them were of the most virulent. Sunday we had walked
+through dust ankle-deep upon the roads; Tuesday and Wednesday it was
+with difficulty that we could cross the streets, which were filled with
+mud, and, part of the time, with muddy water a foot and more in depth.
+This is a frequent occurrence, and foot-passengers who desire to cross
+the street are often forced to hire a coach for that purpose. As one
+walks the street, he runs constant risk of being splashed with mud and
+water from passing vehicles and street-cars. During the four days we
+spent in Merida we met several persons interested in literary lines, and
+visited a number of institutions, among which the most interesting was
+the Museo Yucateco, of which Senor Gamboa Guzman is in charge. It is by
+no means what it should be, or what, with but small outlay, it might be.
+But it contains interesting things in archaeology, in local history, and
+in zoology. It is of special interest to Americans because Le Plongeon
+was interested in its foundation and early development.
+
+An old gentleman, clerk in the diocesan offices, advised us to visit
+Tekax and Peto for our study. The governor had set the hour of two for
+our reception. Merely to see when he would come, we seated ourselves
+in the garden of the plaza, so that we could watch the entrance to
+the palace. Two came, but no governor. At 2:30 several gentlemen were
+waiting near the office door. At three no governor had arrived. At five
+minutes past three, we noticed that hum of excitement and expectation
+which usually heralds some great event, and looking down the street, saw
+the governor pompously approaching. As he passed, hats were removed and
+profound salutations given. Waiting until he had entered the office, we
+walked up to the reception room, where we found ten or twelve gentlemen
+waiting audience. The great man himself had disappeared into an office
+which opened onto this reception-room, but the door of which was not
+closed. All waited patiently; from time to time the usher-secretary
+crept noiselessly to the office door and peeked through the key-hole
+to see whether the executive was ready. Finally, at 3:35 the word was
+given, and the privilege of the first audience was granted to myself.
+During these days of waiting--something which has never occurred with
+any of the many governors of states in Mexico upon whom I have called--I
+had expressed my surprise to a gentleman of wealth and prominence in the
+city, at the governor's compelling me to wait for audience. With some
+feeling, this gentleman replied, "But, sir, you are fortunate; you are
+a stranger, and bring letters from cabinet officials; many of the best
+gentlemen in this city have been kept waiting months in order to see
+Governor Canton in regard to business of the highest consequence to
+themselves and to the public." I will do the governor justice by saying
+that he listened with apparent interest to my statement, and that he
+gave orders that the letters which I wished, to local authorities,
+should be prepared without delay. Thanking him, I withdrew, and by five
+o'clock the secretary handed me the desired documents; we had lost four
+days. Early the following morning, as no _cargadors_ were at hand, our
+little company resolved itself into a band of carriers and we took our
+baggage and equipment to the Peto station. The securing of tickets and
+the checking of baggage was quite an undertaking, and if the train had
+started at the time announced, we should have missed it; however, we
+were in good season, and left something less than an hour late. The
+country through which we passed was an improvement upon what we had seen
+before. The trees were greener, and many flowers were in bloom. From the
+train, we saw a group of pyramids at one point, and an isolated pyramid
+at another. Some of the indian towns through which we passed, with
+curious Maya names, were interesting. So, too, were the vendors at
+the station. Hot tamales, "_pura masa_" (pure dough), as Manuel said,
+slippery and soapy in feeling and consistency, done up in banana leaves
+and carefully tied, seemed to be the favorite goods; far better were
+split _tortillas_ with beans inside and cheese outside; beautiful red
+bananas and plump smooth yellow ones were offered in quantity. We lost
+an hour at the station where trains met, reaching Tekax at eleven. We
+walked up to the hot _plaza_, where we found the town offices closed,
+and had difficulty in even leaving our stuff with the police. At a
+restaurant we had a fair breakfast, for which we paid a peso each
+person. As there were no signs of the town officials, we dropped into
+the _curato_ to see the priest, to whom we presented the bishop's
+letter. He was a Spaniard, who had been in this country only a few
+months, and despises it heartily. He was sitting at table with two young
+men, who had accompanied him from Spain, and who love Yucatan no better
+than he. He greeted us most heartily, and was interested in our plan of
+work. He sent at once for the judge of the _registro civil_, who could
+tell us many curious things about the indians, and, as soon as the old
+man came, the good priest ordered chocolate to be served. We chatted for
+some time, when, seeing that the _jefe's_ office was open, I suggested
+that I had better go to present my letters. The _cura_ and the judge at
+once began to abuse that official roundly for his sins of commission,
+and particularly for those of omission, and told me that I should have
+him summoned; that it was much better than to trouble myself by going
+to his office, where I had already been twice in vain; it was but right
+that he should attend to business; he ought to be in his office when
+visitors came to see him. Accordingly a messenger was sent and the
+_jefe_ summoned.
+
+He seemed a rather nice young fellow, and was much impressed by the
+letter from his governor; he expressed himself as ready and anxious to
+serve us in every way, and made arrangements for us to begin work in
+the town-house, where, before dark, we had taken fifteen sets of
+measurements. This was a capital beginning, but the next two days our
+work fell flat. It was necessary to keep constantly at the _jefe_,
+and it soon became plain that he was making no great effort to secure
+subjects for us, on the assumption that we had better wait until Sunday,
+when there would be plenty of people without trouble to the police.
+
+It was useless to urge effort, and we spent the time talking with the
+old judge in regard to the habits and superstitions of the indians and
+in walking with the judge of _primera instancia_ up to the ridge which
+overlooked the town, and which was crowned by a little _hermita_. The
+population of Yucatan is still, for the most part, pure indian of Maya
+blood and speech. The former importance of this people is well known;
+they had made the greatest progress of any North American population,
+and the ruins of their old towns have often been described. They
+built temples and public buildings of stone and with elaborate carved
+decorations; they ornamented walls with stucco, often worked into
+remarkable figures; they cast copper and gold; they hived bees, and used
+both wax and honey in religious ceremonial. They spun and wove cotton,
+which they dyed with brilliant colors; they had a system of writing
+which, while largely pictorial, contained some phonetic elements. They
+are still a vital people, more than holding their own in the present
+population, and forcing their native language upon the white invaders.
+Nominally good Catholics, a great deal of old superstition still
+survives, and they have many interesting practices and beliefs. The cura
+presented me a _ke'esh_ of gold, which he took from the church, where
+it had been left by a worshipper. It is a little votive figure crudely
+made, commonly of silver; the word means "exchange," and such figures
+are given by the indians to their saint or to the Virgin in exchange for
+themselves, after some sickness or danger.
+
+The ridge overlooking the town is of limestone, and is covered with a
+handsome growth of trees and grass. The terrace on which the _hermita_
+is built is flat and cleared; it is reached by a gently graded ascent,
+with a flight of wide and easy steps, now much neglected. The little
+building is dismantled, though there is some talk of reconstructing it.
+Behind it is a well of vile and stagnant water, which is reputed to cure
+disease. From the ridge a pretty view of Tekax is to be had, bedded in
+a green sheet of trees. The town is regularly laid out, and presents
+little of interest, though the two-storied _portales_ and the odd
+three-storied house of Senor Duarte attract attention. There are also
+many high, square, ventilated shafts, or towers, of distilleries. From
+the terrace where we stood, in the days of the last great insurrection,
+the indians swept down upon the town and are said to have killed 2,500
+of the people, including men, women and children.
+
+The school-teacher of the town is a man of varied attainments, being
+also a photographer, watch-maker, medical-adviser, chemist, and so
+forth. His house is full of scientific instruments--a really good
+camera, a fine aneroid barometer, several thermometers, including
+self-registering maximum and minimum, etc., etc. All seem excellent in
+quality, but I could not learn that he makes any use of them, except
+the camera. The _cura_, and the judge deride his possession of the
+instruments, doubting whether he knows how to use them. They assert that
+he has an apparatus for projection, for which he paid 1,000 pesos, which
+has never yet been unpacked. When we called on him he showed us, by his
+hygrometer, that the air was very humid, though the temperature was at
+86 deg. Fahr., and told us, what probably is true, that in this heavy, hot
+weather, every wound and bruise, however trifling, is likely to become
+serious. In illustration of this fact, the _cura_ mentioned that his
+Spanish carpenter, who merely bruised his leg against the table, has
+suffered frightfully for three months, having now an ugly sore several
+inches across, that makes walking difficult. Great care is necessary
+with any injury that breaks or bruises the skin. We ourselves had
+already experienced the fact that insect-bites became ugly open sores
+that showed no signs of healing; as a fact, none of us succeeded in
+curing such for several weeks after leaving Yucatan. In the afternoon,
+the priest, the judge of _primera instancia_ and myself took a coach
+to ride out to a neighboring _hacienda_, where there was a great
+sugar-mill, Louis accompanying us on horseback. Our road ran alongside
+the ridge and consisted of red limestone-clay. It was fairly good,
+though dry and dusty, and closely bordered with the usual Yucatecan
+scrub. The ridge, along which we were coursing, is the single elevation
+in the peninsula; beginning in northeastern Yucatan, it runs diagonally
+toward the southwest, ending near Campeche. It is generally covered with
+a dense growth of forest, unless artificial clearings have been made.
+Covies of birds, like quail, were seen here and there, along the road,
+and at one point a handsome green snake, a yard or more in length,
+glided across the way. Snakes are said to be common, and among them
+several are venomous--the rattlesnake, the coral-snake, and most dreaded
+of all, a little dark serpent a foot or so in length, with an enormous
+head, whose bite is said to be immediately fatal. There are also many
+tree-snakes, as thick as a man's arm. In the forest, mountain-lions are
+rare, but "tigers" are common. We found Santa Maria to be an extensive
+_hacienda_, and the sugar-mill was a large structure, well supplied with
+modern machinery, and turning out a large amount of product. We saw
+a few of the indian hands, went through the factory, and were shown
+through the owner's house, which has beautiful running water and baths,
+though there is little furniture, and nothing of what we would consider
+decoration. It was after dark before we started to town, and when we got
+there we found two wedding parties waiting for the padre's services.
+
+The promised crowd filled the market Sunday, and our work went finely.
+Between the town officials and the priest, subjects were constantly
+supplied. Among the indians who presented themselves for measurement was
+old Manuel, sacristan from Xaya; he is a _h'men_, and we had hoped that
+he would show us the method of using the _sastun_, or divining crystal.
+He is a full-blood, and neither in face nor manner shows the least
+emotion. Automatic in movement, he is quiet and phlegmatic in manner;
+having assumed the usual indian pose for rest, a squat position in
+which no part of the body except the feet rests upon the ground, or any
+support, he sat quietly, with the movement of scarcely a muscle, for
+hours at a time. He sang for us the invocation to the winds of the four
+quarters, which they use in the ceremony of planting time. Though he is
+frequently employed to say the "milpa mass" and to conjure, he claims
+that he never learned how to use the _sastun_, but told us that another
+_h'men_ in his village knew it well.
+
+One of the _padre's_ companions has been ill ever since he came to
+Yucatan; Sunday he suffered so greatly that a doctor was sent for
+in haste. Nothing was told us as to what his trouble might be, but
+personally I suspected that he had the small-pox. In connection with his
+illness, we learned for the first time that another companion of the
+priest, brought from Spain, died in the room I was occupying, less
+than two weeks before, from yellow fever. We had known that one of his
+companions had died of yellow fever, but supposed it was some months
+earlier. Toward evening the priest was sent for by a neighbor, who
+needed the last service. On the _padre's_ return, we learned that this
+person was believed to be dying from _vomito_. For a moment we were in
+doubt what was best to do, especially as the police had told us that the
+_padre_ had permitted no fumigation of his premises after his comrade's
+death, simply sprinkling holy water about the place. That night the
+young man in the next room suffered greatly, and I could not help but
+wonder what ailed him. However, I decided that what danger there might
+be from the disease we had already risked, and as we expected to remain
+but one or two more days, it seemed hardly worth while to make a change.
+Monday we planned a visit to San Juan and Xaya. The horses had been
+ordered for five o'clock, but mass had been said, chocolate taken, and
+all was ready, long before they appeared. Six, seven, eight all passed,
+and at last, at nine, only three animals appeared. This decided us to
+leave Ramon behind to pack the busts which we had made, while the others
+of the party, with the _padre_, mounted on his own horse, should make
+the journey. A foot _mozo_ carried the camera. The road was of the usual
+kind, and was marked at every quarter league with a little cross of wood
+set into a pile of stones and bearing the words, De Tekax----L. As we
+passed La Trinidad we noticed great tanks of water for irrigation before
+the house, and tall trees with their bare, gray roots running over and
+enveloping the piles of stones on which they had been planted. There
+were no other plantations or villages until just before the ninth
+cross--two and a quarter leagues--we came to the hennequin plantation of
+San Juan. The mayor domo was delighted to see the _padre_ and greeted us
+warmly, taking us at once to the great house. We rode between long lines
+of orange trees, loaded with sweet and juicy fruits, and were soon
+sitting in the cool and delightful hallway. It is impossible to say how
+many dozens of those oranges four of us ate, but we were urged to make
+away with all we could, as the daily gathering is something more than
+five thousand. Soon an elaborate breakfast was ready for us, but before
+we ate we took a drink of fresh milk from cocoanuts cut expressly for
+us. We had salmon, eggs, meat-stew, beans, tortillas, and wine. But the
+mayor domo expressed his regret that he did not know we were coming, as
+he would gladly have killed a little pig for us. As dessert a great dish
+of fresh _papaya_ cut up into squares and soaking in its own juice,
+was served. Sitting in the cool corridor, after a good breakfast,
+and looking out over a beautiful country, with promises that all the
+subjects necessary for measurement should be supplied, the idea of
+riding on to Xaya lost attractiveness, and we sent a foot-messenger with
+an order to the town authorities to send the _h'men_ with his _sastuns_
+without delay to see us.
+
+[Illustration: MAYA DANCE; SAN JUAN]
+
+[Illustration: THE H'MEN WITH HIS SASTUN; SAN JUAN]
+
+This was our first opportunity to see the industry of hennequin, which
+is the chief product of this _hacienda_. The leaves, after cutting, are
+brought from the field tied up in bundles. These are opened, and the
+leaves are fed into a revolving, endless double chain, which carries
+them on iron arms upward and dumps them onto a table, where three men
+receive them and feed them into the stripper. This consists of a round
+table, into the inner, excavated, circular face of which a round knife
+with dull edge fits closely, though at only one place at once; the
+leaves, fed between the table and knife, are held firmly by them at
+about one-third their length. The projecting two-thirds of the leaves
+hang downward; as the table revolves the leaves thus held are carried to
+a vertical revolving rasp which strips out the flesh, leaving the fibre
+masses hanging. These taken out from between the table and the knife are
+fed again to a second revolving table which holds the masses of fibre,
+leaving the unstripped portion of the leaves exposed to a second rasp,
+which strips it. The hanks of fibre are dropped from the second table
+onto a horizontal wooden bar, where they are rapidly sorted over by
+a man who throws inferior and spotted bunches to one side. The whole
+operation is rapid and beautiful. The fresh fibre is then hung over
+bars, in the southern wind, to dry, after which it is baled in presses
+for shipment.
+
+[Illustration: MAYA HOUSE; SAN JUAN]
+
+We had no trouble in completing the measurement of subjects from the
+indian hands on the place, and made portraits and photographs of native
+dancers. In the afternoon the _h'men_ appeared. He was an extremely
+clean and neat indian of forty-five, and carried at his side a little
+sack, within which, carefully wrapped up in a handkerchief, were his
+_sastuns_. There were five in all; three were small round balls of
+glass, broken from the stoppers of perfume bottles; one was somewhat
+barrel-shaped and of bluish color, while the other, the largest of all,
+was rather long, fancifully formed, and with facets ground out upon it;
+it was yellowish in tint. The two latter were apparently from toilet
+bottles. Telling him that I was anxious to learn about something which
+had been stolen from me, I asked what was necessary in the way of
+preparation. He demanded a candle and _aguardiente_. A great taper of
+yellow wax and a bottle of spirits were supplied. Taking these in his
+hand, he entered the little chapel of the _hacienda_, considering it a
+good place for conjuring. He piously kissed the altar tables and the
+bases of the crucifixes and saints; then picking out a dark corner he
+opened his cloth, took out his glasses, lighted the candle and squatted
+for his operation. Taking one of the crystal balls between his fingers,
+he held it between the flame and his eye and looked intently into it,
+as if seeking something. One after another, the five crystals were
+carefully examined. Finally, laying the last aside, he shook his head.
+He could see nothing, nothing whatever, that interested the gentleman,
+unless indeed sickness; this he pointed out in one of the little balls;
+redness, fever. Being urged to try again, after an interval he got down
+to real business; he took the _aguardiente_, dipped the crystals into
+the liquor, repeating formulas as he did so, and again made the test,
+but with no better result. He could see nothing, absolutely nothing, of
+stolen property; there was nothing in the crystal of interest to the
+gentleman, except fever; that there was, he was certain. This practice
+of divining by means of crystals is a survival from the old pagan days.
+It is probable that there is no indian town of any size in Yucatan where
+some _h'men_ does not make use of it.
+
+We had now finished our work with Maya Indians, except the measurement
+of a few women and the making of a single bust. Upon rather strong
+representation to the _jefe_, a desperate effort was made by the
+policemen and the women were secured. Among the village police-force,
+one man had attracted our particular attention, as representing a
+type of face, quite common among the Mayas, which we have called the
+serpent-face. It is round and broad, with retreating chin and receding
+forehead, and with curious, widely-separated, expressionless eyes. We
+had already measured and photographed the subject, but, because he was
+a policeman and had been useful, we thought we would not subject him to
+the operation of bust-making. Seeing, however, that no other equally
+good subject had presented itself, we decided to make his bust, and told
+him so. To our surprise he refused. The _jefe_, for once, acted promptly
+and without hesitation issued an absolute order that the man's bust
+should be made. The order had no effect. The officials scolded,
+threatened, but Modesto Kan was immovable. The _jefe_ ordered that he
+should be thrown into jail, which order was promptly obeyed, but all to
+no purpose. Our subject said we might whip him, fine him, keep him in
+jail, or kill him, but he would not have his bust made. Hours passed,
+and neither remonstrance nor threats on the part of the _jefe_ or
+ourselves were of the least avail. On my last interview with him, I
+found him lying on a mat with so high a fever that I dared not urge the
+matter further, and we desisted from our efforts to secure him. It was
+the only subject among 3,000 Indians, with whom we failed to carry out
+our work.
+
+A story which the old judge had told us had its influence in my
+permitting this subject to escape. These Mayas often die for spite, or
+because they have made up their mind to do so. Don Manuel at one time
+was summoned by a rich indian with whom he was well acquainted. The man
+was not old, and had land, good houses, many head of cattle, much maize,
+and many fowls. He had three children, and owned the houses near his own
+in which they lived. Everything was prospering with him. Yet the message
+to the judge was that he should come at once to hear this indian's last
+words. With a companion he hastened to the house, and found the man in
+his hammock, dressed in his best clothes, waiting for them. He seemed
+in perfect health. When they accosted him, he told them he was about
+to make his will, and say his last words. They told him that a man in
+health had a perfect right to make his will, but remonstrated with him
+for saying that he was about to speak his last words. He insisted,
+however, that he was about to die. In vain they argued with him; he had
+had his dream. He gave to one child, house, animals, corn, poultry; to
+the second, similar gifts; to the third, the same. Then, having bidden
+them all farewell, he lay down in his hammock, took no food or drink,
+spoke to no one, and in six days was dead. Such cases are not uncommon
+among Maya indians of pure blood.
+
+When we reached home that night we found Ramon unwell. Next day, the
+last of our stay at Tekax he was suffering with fever. He had done
+no work while we were absent the day before, and all the packing and
+doing-up of plaster fell upon the others of the party. As for him, he
+collapsed so completely that it scared me. The ordinary _mestizo_ has
+no power of resistance; no matter how trifling the disease, he suffers
+frightfully and looks for momentary dissolution. It was plain from the
+first moment that Ramon believed that he had the yellow fever; instead
+of trying to keep at work or occupying himself with something which
+would distract his attention, he withdrew into the least-aired corner of
+a hot room and threw himself onto heap of rugs and blankets, in which
+he almost smothered himself, cut off from every breath of fresh air. In
+vain we urged him to exert himself; in the middle of the afternoon we
+took him to the doctor, who assured us that the case was in no way
+serious--at the worst nothing more than a light attack of malaria. In
+the afternoon the _jefe_, neglecting the _padre_, invited the judge of
+_primera instancia_ and myself to accompany him upon a little expedition
+to the neighboring Cave of the Fifth of May. We went in a coach, taking
+Louis, who sat with the driver, as photographer; on the way, we visited
+the town cemetery, which we found a dreary place, with no effort at
+adornment and with an air of general neglect. We passed a number of
+places where they were boiling sugar, and at one we stopped to see the
+mode of dipping calabashes for _dulces_; the fruits are gourd-like, but
+have considerable soft pulp within the thin, hard crust; several holes
+are bored through the external shell and the calabashes, slung by
+strings into groups at the end of a pole, are dipped into the boiling
+sap or syrup; the dipping is done two or even three times, and the
+clusters are removed and allowed to drip and dry between dips. The loose
+flesh is soaked through with the syrup, making a rich, sweet mass, much
+used for desserts. Finally, we turned into another place where sugar was
+being made, and found it the cleanest and neatest of its kind. Here we
+sampled little cakes of clean brown sugar, and were treated with similar
+cakes in which peanuts and squash-pips were embedded, making a delicious
+confection. We were here supplied with a clean, fresh _jicara_ cup, and,
+walking along the path a few rods, ascended slightly to the mouth of the
+cave, which was far handsomer than we had expected. The limestone of
+Yucatan abounds in caves and subterranean water-courses, especially near
+the base of the ridge already mentioned. The mouth of the cavern was
+fringed with ferns and other vegetation. A flight of rustic steps led
+down to the nearly level floor of red cave-earth. The light from outside
+entered sufficiently to show the greater portion of the cave. The rock
+walls, opposite the opening, were brilliantly green with some minute
+growth; from the floor rose a heap of stone upon the top of which was
+set an _olla_ of large size to catch the water dripping from the roof;
+it was full of most beautifully clear, cool water, which we dipped out
+with our _jicara_ and drank. At two or three other places on the floor,
+and on projections from the side walls of the cave, were other _ollas_,
+or broken water-troughs of stone, for catching water. Lighting our
+candles we went behind a pendant veil of thick stalagmite. At some spots
+hummocks of snow-white crystalline matter, with a reticulated surface,
+had been deposited by dripping water. A few great masses of stalagmite
+rose from the floor, and there were some columns of the same material.
+On returning from the cavern, nothing would do but we must breakfast
+with the _jefe_, which we did, in state, though at our usual
+boarding-house.
+
+[Illustration: FRESHLY-DIPPED CALABASHES, NEAR TEKAX]
+
+[Illustration: THE COACH THAT CARRIED US TO THE STATION; TEKAX]
+
+The three great industries about Tekax are sugar, hennequin, and liquor.
+Father Juan insisted that we should visit one of the local distilleries,
+of which there are fourteen in Tekax. Sugar, ground with water into a
+thick syrup, is drawn off from the mill into great vats, where it is
+permitted to ferment; it is then taken into the still, where it is
+heated and vaporized, and the vapor carried up into high towers
+for condensation. These three-storied, square, wooden towers, with
+ventilator-shafts, are one of the characteristic features of the town.
+
+Padre Juan insisted on supplying a coach for our leaving, in the
+morning. This coach, like those at Merida, was an extremely small
+affair, for a single horse. Under any circumstances it would scarcely
+carry three persons, without luggage, besides the driver. When it is
+remembered that our party, (consisting of four), the stout _padre_, four
+satchels, measuring-rod, tin pan and blankets, made up the load, it can
+be easily appreciated that the little coach was full. We rode slowly,
+and the poor, creaking vehicle threatened to fall to pieces every
+moment, but we reached the station safely. It was scarcely ten when we
+arrived at Merida and took our old quarters at the Moromuzo. Our invalid
+at once lay down, and neither threats nor bribes would move him; he
+looked as if he suffered, but he insisted on doing so; going to the
+nearest drug store we described his symptoms to the apothecary, who
+assured us that the case could not be serious, and supplied a remedy
+which was rapid and energetic in its action, though our sick man
+insisted that he was not improved.
+
+We were now but waiting for notice of a vessel sailing from Progreso for
+Coatzacoalcos. Writing, errands, visits, filled up the time, but it was
+dreary waiting. The muddy streets, the heavy, moist, fetid air, the
+outrageous prices, the mosquitoes--all combined to make a disagreeable
+experience. We worried through three days, and still no announcement of
+a boat. In a visit made to the bishop, to tell him of our kind reception
+in Tekax and to make inquiry regarding books printed in the Maya, we
+were again warned by the prelate to be most careful of our health; that
+day, he told us, two of our countrymen, working at the electric-light
+plant, had been stricken with yellow fever and would surely die. The
+second day we were in town the boys met Don Poncio, one of the Spanish
+comrades of the _padre_ at Tekax, who, with another of the household,
+had run away, leaving the good priest alone, as the young fellow who had
+been ill in the room next ours developed a full case of yellow fever the
+day we left, and was dead before night.
+
+One day we went to a _cenote_ for a bath. Passing through a house into a
+rather pretty garden, we came to a stairway, partly natural and partly
+cut in the solid rock, which we descended; we found ourselves in a
+natural cave, with a pool of blue, transparent water. A paved platform
+surrounded one side of the cave, and near its rear edge was a bench of
+masonry, which was continued along the side of the pool by a similar
+bench, cut partly from the living rock. The water was so clear that we
+could see, by the light coming from above, to its very bottom, and
+could detect little black fishes, like bull-heads, against the sand and
+pebbles. The pool was irregular in shape, so that a portion of it was
+out of sight behind the rock-wall, beyond which we found that there was
+a paved floor and benching similar to that in the portion which we had
+entered. We had a delightful and refreshing swim in this underground
+pool, but it was noticeable that, after we came out into the air, there
+was no evaporation of water from the body, and towels were absolutely
+necessary for drying. Such _cenotes_ are found in many parts of Yucatan,
+and form the regular bathing-places, and are often the only natural
+supplies of drinking-water. Of streams above ground there are
+practically none in the whole peninsula.
+
+The last day of our stay in Merida we saw the _xtoles_. These are bands
+of indian dancers who go from house to house during the carnival season;
+they are dressed in costumes which reproduce some features of the
+ancient indian dress. In the little company which we saw were fifteen
+dancers, including the standard-bearer; all were males, but half of them
+were dressed like females and took the part of such. The male dancers
+wore the usual white _camisa_ and drawers, but these had a red stripe
+down the side of the leg; jingling hawk-bells of tin or brass were
+attached to various parts of their dress; a red belt encircled the
+waist; all wore sandals. The "female" dancers wore white dresses of the
+usual sort, with decorated borders at the arm and neck; also necklaces
+of gold beads and gold chains with pendants. Two of the dancers were
+little children, but the rest appeared to be young men up to about
+thirty-five years of age. All wore crowns upon the head; these
+consisted of a circlet of tin, from which rose two curved strips, which
+intersected over the middle of the head; from the circlet rose four
+feathers--either natural or made of tin. Two of the crowns of special
+size, with real feathers, marked the king and queen. Under the crowns,
+covering the top of the head and hanging down from the shoulders, were
+gay handkerchiefs of red or blue. All the dancers were masked. The men
+wore bandoliers of cotton, worked with bright designs representing
+animals, birds and geometrical forms; the square ends of these were hung
+with marine shells. In their hands, the dancers carried curious rattles
+and fans, which they used in making graceful movements as they danced.
+The handle of the fan consisted of the leg and foot of a turkey, while
+the body was composed of the brilliant and beautifully spotted feathers
+of the ocellated turkey, a bird peculiar to Yucatan and the adjacent
+country. There were two musicians, one with a long _pito_, or fife, and
+the other with a _huehuetl_ or drum, which he struck with his hand.
+Hanging to the side of the drum near the top was a turtle-shell, upon
+which the drummer beat, from time to time, with a deer's horn. A
+standard was carried by the company, which bore a representation of the
+sun, with dancers and a serpent; the pole by which it was carried was
+surmounted with a tin disk representing the sun's face. The music was
+apparently of indian origin and the words of the song were Maya. The
+dancing itself was graceful and accompanied by many curious movements.
+Mr. Thompson, our American consul to Yucatan, believes this dance is
+ancient, and thinks he has found representations of it painted on the
+walls of ancient ruins at Chichen Itza.
+
+[Illustration: THE XTOLES; Merida]
+
+[Illustration: THE XTOLES; Merida]
+
+Merida prides itself upon its carnival, which, it claims, ranks
+third,--Venice and New Orleans alone surpassing it. It was admitted that
+the celebration of this year was far below that of others. The cause of
+this dullness was generally stated to be the great amount of sickness
+prevalent in the city. However that may be, it certainly was a tame
+affair. On the 15th two processions took place, one in the morning,
+the other in the afternoon; these were arranged by two clubs of young
+people, and each desired to surpass the other. We saw that of the
+afternoon, and found it not particularly interesting. A number of
+private carriages, drawn up in line, passed through the streets; within
+were gentlemen, ladies and children, but few of them wore masks, or
+were otherwise notable; besides these, in the procession, were five
+allegorical cars. One represented a gilded boat containing pretty girls;
+it was arranged to seem to rise and fall upon a billowy sea. A second
+float represented the well-known ancient statue, the Chacmool; an
+indian, in the attitude of the figure mentioned, held an _olla_ upon his
+breast, while one or two others stood near him as guards or companions.
+The most attractive float was loaded with the products of Yucatan, and
+a group of figures symbolizing its industries and interests. Upon the
+fourth, a female figure stood erect in a chariot drawn by lions. The
+fifth was comic, and represented marriage in public and private--a
+vulgar couple indulging in affectionate display before a partition,
+and in a conjugal quarrel behind it. These floats were scattered at
+intervals through the procession, which was of no great length.
+
+By this time Ramon had suffered violent agonies, and had become so weak
+that assistance was needed when he walked. The second day in Merida we
+had sent for a competent physician, who assured us that nothing was the
+matter excepting an unimportant attack of bilious fever, and that with a
+day or two of treatment he should be entirely recovered. On his second
+visit he was much irritated, as the young man had not made the promised
+improvement, and assured us that there was no cause for his collapse.
+During our first visit to Merida, in hunting through the city for
+Protestants--a practice in which he invariably indulged whenever we
+reached a town of consequence--Ramon had happened on an interesting
+little man who represents the American Bible Society in this district.
+By name Fernandez, this gentleman was born in Argentina, educated in
+Spain, and has served as colporteur in the states of Chiapas, Tabasco
+and Yucatan for upwards of a dozen years. He was stout, active, and
+vivacious; he claimed to have been in every town in Chiapas, and gave
+us much advice regarding our journey to that state; he called upon us
+several times during our stay, and shared the general disgust over our
+sick man, who, he assured us, had nothing serious the matter, and only
+needed to arouse himself to throw off the bilious attack from which he
+suffered. On the streets we met the baron who had been with us on our
+voyage from Tampico. He told us that after one day in Merida, he and
+his lady decided that they preferred Progreso, and were stopping there,
+going down upon the day-train when they wished to visit Merida. He also
+warned us that we need never expect to see the forty dollars which we
+had advanced through the vice-consul, as whatever disposition should be
+made of our complaint regarding customs charges by the government, no
+such money was ever known to leave his hands. Following events entirely
+confirmed this gentleman's dire prophecy; neither Mr. Thompson nor Senor
+Solis have paid the least attention to communications regarding the
+matter sent after our return to our own country. It is little likely
+that the Mexican government refused to refund the payment; but we shall
+probably never know.
+
+The remarks of the baron suggested a new line of action. Why longer
+wait in Merida for our boat? Progreso is cleaner, cooler, enjoys a sea
+breeze, and gives as good living for less than half the price we were
+paying. For comfort, for the benefit of our sick man, for the advantage
+of our pocket, we would be better off at Progreso than in Merida. While
+there were cases of small-pox in the little seaport, there were none of
+yellow fever. In every way it looked attractive, and on Monday morning
+we left, and found ourselves, before noon, comfortably located in the
+curious little hotel, La Estrella de Oro, in Progreso. To be sure,
+our rooms were mere stalls, being separated from each other by board
+partitions scarcely eight feet in height, and without ceiling, so that
+it was impossible to escape the conversation in neighboring rooms at
+night. The table, however, was excellent, and the price, compared with
+what we had been paying, economy itself. Having seen my companions
+comfortably located, I returned to Merida, where there was still some
+business demanding attention. This time I found a room in the Hotel
+Concordia, which was the most comfortable I enjoyed in Merida, although
+the price of $4 for the mere room was high. The day before, we had seen
+the Battle of Flowers of the carnival. No flowers figured in it; it
+consisted of a long procession of carriages, mostly private and mostly
+good; they were filled with well-dressed young people, of whom few were
+masked; all were supplied with confetti, which was thrown in handfuls
+by those in the carriages upon those in carriages going in the other
+direction, for the procession was double. Usually, girls and ladies
+threw at men and boys, who reciprocated the compliment; the ladies had
+their hair loose and flowing, and wore no hats; so that in a little time
+it was filled with the brilliant bits of paper. Everyone, also, had long
+strips of colored paper, rolled up like ribbons, which were now and then
+launched, either with no direct aim or at some person; as these strips
+unrolled they trailed prettily in the air, and everyone caught at the
+trailing streamers. Crowds of poor children chased along, beside and
+behind the carriages, catching at the showers of bits of paper, and at
+the long streamers, which they kept, or, in turn, hurled at passers. The
+balconies of all the better houses were filled with people, as were the
+seats and raised platform fronting the town-house, and those in
+the balconies and on the seats rained down paper upon those in the
+carriages. Many children in the balconies were masked, and wore
+grotesque costumes, but few grown persons were so decked out. While
+pretty and characteristic, the Battle of Flowers disappointed us,
+lacking the life and "abandon" which one usually associates with
+the idea of carnival. It was all reserved, and respectable, and
+unenthusiastic. The only persons who really seemed to enjoy it were the
+poor children, with their loads of bright paper and long streamers.
+Monday afternoon, the most striking function of the carnival, so far
+seen, took place. This was an enormous procession of vehicles; private
+carriages, with elaborate equipment, were filled with finely-dressed
+gentlemen and ladies; common rented coaches were in line, and some of
+them were loaded to their full capacity with common people--four, five,
+or even six, in one; in one were four brawny, young _cargadors_; in
+another an old grandmother, her two daughters, and some grandchildren,
+pure indians, rode complacently, enjoying the admiration which they knew
+their best clothes must attract; in some of the fine private coaches, no
+one but indian nurses or favored servants rode. Even here, few of the
+parties were really dashing, lively or beautiful. The whole thing was
+constrained, artificial and sedate. An occasional group seemed to really
+enjoy the occasion. One bony horse dragged an ancient buggy or cart,
+which might well be that of some country doctor, and in it was the
+gentleman himself, commonly dressed, but with a whole family of little
+people, who were bubbling over with enjoyment. Another happy party was
+that of a common carter, who had his own dray in the line, with his
+children, neatly but commonly dressed, as its only occupants; in two or
+three carriages were maskers, though none of them appeared funny;
+one drayman's cart had been hired by a crowd of loud and boisterous
+youngsters, who performed all kinds of pranks and bawled nonsensical
+remarks to the crowd.
+
+[Illustration: CARNIVAL AT PROGRESO]
+
+[Illustration: CARNIVAL AT PROGRESO]
+
+My chief errand was to see the leader of the _xtoles_, to purchase from
+him some of the objects which they had used in their dance. Just as I
+was starting, at evening, for the address he had given me, I met Senor
+Fernandez in the plaza, and he agreed to accompany me to the place. We
+went some little distance on the street-car, and, dismounting at the
+corner of a narrow lane, were about to start through it, when someone
+touched my companion on the arm, and greeted him. He recognized the
+owner of the little shop before which we stood. Heartily invited to
+enter the _tienda_, we did so and stated the object of our quest. The
+shopkeeper at once said that we must have a lantern, as the road was
+dark, and ordered his clerk to accompany us with one, for which we were
+truly thankful. We came, finally, to the house where Don Gregorio,
+the leader of the dancers, lived. Fernandez was friendly and voluble,
+greeting every company of girls and women that we met, or who were at
+the house, as "_lindas_," and passing compliments. He was, however,
+uneasy, continually glancing around and asking repeatedly when Don
+Gregorio would appear. The dancers were still absent, but expected
+every moment; in fact, we could hear their music in the distance. When,
+finally, they did appear, their leader, who was very drunk, insisted
+that he could not treat in the matter until after the next day, which
+would be the culmination of the carnival, and their chief day for
+dancing. The instant that we received this answer, Fernandez seized
+the lantern, which the clerk had left, and, grasping me by the arm, we
+started off at breakneck pace. As we almost rushed down the stony road,
+he looked furtively to right and left, and told me that there were, no
+doubt, persons in the neighborhood who had recognized him, and said
+that, more than once, in this very neighborhood, he had been stoned
+when selling bibles, and that any moment we ran our chances of a night
+attack. Apparently, however, people were too much excited over carnival
+to waste their time in baiting Protestants, and we heard no whizzing
+missiles, and soon, reaching the corner shop, left the lantern, and went
+home. There had been doubt as to whether trains would run the following
+day, Tuesday, on account of carnival. I found, however, that the train
+on which I had counted, leaving at seven in the morning, went as usual,
+though it was the only train of the day for Progreso. My companions
+were delighted to see me, and I found our sick man sure that death was
+imminent; to tell the truth, he was constantly spitting black blood,
+which oozed from his gums, and which gave me more concern than any of
+his previous symptoms. We found the carnival at Progreso more natural
+and unpretentious, but also far more lively and amusing, than anything
+in Merida. To be sure, some of the performances bordered on the
+indecent, but on the whole, it was jolly, and scarcely gave cause for
+Manuel's pious ejaculation that there were many _abusos_. Groups of men
+and boys went through the streets decked with ribbons and flowers, and
+with their faces painted or daubed; many carried handfuls of flour,
+or of blue paint, which they dashed into the faces or over the clean
+clothes of those they met; bands of maskers danced through the streets;
+companies of almost naked boys, daubed with colors, played _toro_ with
+one who was inside a frame of wood. One man, completely naked, painted
+grotesquely, pranced through the streets on all fours; young fellows,
+dressed in women's clothes, with faces masked or painted, wandered about
+singly, addressing persons on the street in a high falsetto voice with
+all sorts of woeful stories or absurd questions. Very pretty was a
+company of trained dancers,--with a standard, leader, music, and fancy
+costume,--each of whom carried two staves in his hands; these performed
+a variety of graceful movements, and sung a song in Spanish; this was
+interestingly like the song of the _xtoles_, and the movements were
+almost precisely theirs. In the evening, we attended the _baile de los
+mestizos_--dance of the _mestizos_, where the elite of the little city
+was gathered, and the place was crowded. Very little of it was
+enough, for while the music and dancing were all right, the heat, the
+tobacco-smoke, and the perfume, were overpowering.
+
+To our joy, on Wednesday, the "Hidalgo" appeared, bound for
+Coatzacoalcos. All day Thursday we waited for it to unload its cargo,
+and on Friday morning, we loaded into a little sail-boat at the wharf,
+which we hired for a price far below what the regular steamer would
+have charged to take us to our vessel. The luggage had been weighed and
+valued, and an imposing bill of lading, and an official document, had
+been made out, to prevent our paying duty a third time when we should
+reach our port. At 10:30 we were on the "Hidalgo," ready for leaving. It
+is the crankiest steamer on the Ward Line, and dirty in the extreme.
+The table is incomparably bad. The one redeeming feature is that the
+first-class cabins are good, and on the upper deck, where they receive
+abundance of fresh air; there were plenty of seats for everyone to sit
+upon the deck, a thing which was not true of the "Benito Juarez."
+Of other first-class passengers, there were two harmless Yucatecan
+gentlemen--one of whom was seasick all the voyage,--and two Americans,
+brothers, one from St. Louis, Mo., and the other from Springfield, Ill.
+The captain of our vessel was a Norwegian, the first officer was a
+Mexican, the chief engineer an American, the purser a low-German, the
+chief steward an Oaxaca indian, and the cook a Filipino. Never was I so
+glad to reach a resting-place, never so relieved, as when we got our
+baggage and our sick man safely on board. As to the latter, he at once
+lay down, and, practically, was not on his feet during the voyage. We
+had expected to make the run in thirty hours, but were hindered by rough
+weather, catching portions of two northers; the second was so bad that,
+when almost in sight of our destination, we were forced to put to sea
+again, and lost many hours of time and miles of distance. On the morning
+of the third day, however, we had dropped anchor, and on looking from
+the cabins at five, caught sight of Coatzacoalcos; but it was not the
+Coatzacoalcos of 1896. Prodigious changes had taken place. The Pearson
+Company, having taken possession of the railroad, had made great
+improvements; their pretentious general-offices, located at the wharf,
+had recently been completed; the railroad station had been improved;
+the old shack, where we slept in 1896, had been torn down, and a
+construction track occupied its place; on the little rise behind, a
+pretty and large hotel had been erected; on the higher land, to
+the right, a line of well-built houses, making some pretension to
+architectural effect, had been constructed. It was only after landing,
+and walking through the older portions of the town, that any familiar
+scenes were recognized. Though we were ready to land at five, and wished
+to catch the train at seven, we were forced to wait for the official
+inspection, and saw the longed-for train--and there would be no other
+for two days--pull out before our eyes. Finally, at nine o'clock, we
+were permitted to land. To my surprise, my shipping document was called
+for, but, being produced, we were subjected to no difficulty. The
+balance of the day was spent in wandering about the village, meeting
+former acquaintances, attending to odds and ends of shipment, and
+strolling on the familiar beach, which was still covered with scurrying
+crabs and sprinkled with white "sand dollars." During the night, a
+terrific norther blew, and the next day, cold, dull gray, rainy, kept us
+in-doors. By this time, the purser of the "Hidalgo," who had himself had
+yellow fever, and said he was familiar with it, had convinced us that
+Ramon really had had a slight touch of that dread disease, but having
+passed his tenth day of sickness, was destined to recover, and would be
+no serious menace to other people.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXIII
+
+OX-CART EXPERIENCES
+
+(1901)
+
+
+On the following morning, at seven, we took the railroad train, and at
+five at night had reached Tehuantepec, and were pleasantly located in
+our old hotel, the Europa. On February 28, we visited the market, called
+at the house of the _jefe politico_ for a letter to the town authorities
+of Huilotepec, and visited Dr. Castle, whom we found much the same as
+ever. We failed to find the _jefe_ at his office, though we went there
+several times, but found him sitting in a _tienda_ much the worse for
+drinking. He was charmed to see us, embraced us warmly, and told us that
+his thoughts had frequently been with us since our former sojourn in
+his district. New supplies of wine, and, on the appearance of certain
+ladies, of champagne, were ordered in witness of his satisfaction. In
+regard to our desires, he was delighted to learn that Louis was shooting
+birds, declaring that we were just in time; that he had a damnable order
+from Mexico to send on skins of all the birds of his district for the
+National Museum, and that he had not known what to do in the matter;
+we must prepare them; if we did so, willingly, we should be handsomely
+paid; but if not, he would be compelled to force us. The jail was
+ready, and men die easily in Southern Mexico. With this, he made some
+suggestions that it was easy for a person to be officially reported as
+accidentally killed, or dead from _vomito_. He insisted that we should
+not go alone to Huilotepec, but that he himself would accompany us and
+make sure that everything was done according to our wishes. All these
+dire threats and great promises were completely forgotten on the
+following day, when we sallied forth alone.
+
+[Illustration: MANUEL AND AN IGUANA; TEHUANTEPEC]
+
+[Illustration: MARKET WOMEN; SAN BLAS]
+
+In the _jefe's_ office we learned that during the past year not only
+Coatzacoalcos, but Tehuantepec, had suffered frightfully from yellow
+fever. Of course, the disease is no rarity on the Gulf coast, though it
+was never worse than in the last season; but in Tehuantepec, and on the
+Pacific coast, it is a thing so rare as to be almost unknown. So true is
+this, that, when it was first reported from this district, the federal
+government did not believe the story, and sent a commission to
+investigate. We learned that the commission arrived at evening, and,
+finding two persons dead in their black vomit on the street, made no
+further investigation, but started for Mexico on the following train.
+The spread of the disease to the west coast is generally attributed, and
+no doubt correctly, to the railroad. The disease was particularly fatal,
+in both places, to Americans and Englishmen, and it was whispered that
+90 per cent of the employes of the new railroad management succumbed.
+The chief clerk in the _jefe's_ office told us that, while many cases
+occurred here, no pure indians were taken, and that none of the
+_mestizos_ who were affected died--the mortality being confined to the
+foreigners.
+
+Dr. Castle had moved, but his place was as interesting as ever. For
+pets, he had three hairless dogs, a _mapachtl_, two macaws, two parrots,
+and a lot of doves, one of which he had taught tricks. He was much
+interested in cactuses, and had established a garden in which he planned
+to have all the species of the district. We had purchased some iguanas
+in the market, and Louis had been skinning them. The Doctor said that
+there were three species of iguanas in the district, the largest being
+green, changing to orange or gray, and its flesh not being eaten, as it
+is too sweet; the second species is of medium size, and gray or black in
+color; the third is rarer, smaller, and is striped lengthwise; it lives
+among the rocks near the coast. The two last species are both eaten,
+and are often sold in market. Here we learned, by a casual remark which
+Manuel dropped on seeing the ugliest of the hairless dogs, that these
+are believed, not only here, but in Puebla, and no doubt elsewhere
+through the Republic, to cure rheumatism. In order to effect a cure, the
+dog must sleep for three nights with the patient, and the uglier the dog
+the more certain the cure. Through Dr. Castle, we also learned that the
+Zapotec Indians hereabouts, have many songs, of which the _sandunga_ is
+a great favorite. Questioning an indian friend of mine, we afterwards
+learned that there are many of these pieces of music which are held
+to be truly indian. The words are largely Zapotec; Spanish words are
+scattered through the song, and the sentiment is largely borrowed.
+Most of the songs are love-songs, and they abound in metaphorical
+expressions. Our little trip to Huilotepec was for the purpose of
+photographing the curious and interesting _mapa_ belonging to the
+village. We rode out over the hot and dusty river-bed road, arriving at
+noon. Sending for the _agente_ and _secretario_, we ordered breakfast
+and made known our errand. Though it plainly was not to their taste, the
+_mapa_ was brought out for our inspection. It is painted on a piece of
+coarse cotton cloth, of native weaving, in three colors--blue, red and
+black. The places around Huilotepec are indicated by their ancient
+hieroglyphs. Several personages of the ancient time are represented in
+the conventional manner commonly used in Zapotec writings before the
+Conquest. After eating, we placed the _mapa_ against the wall, wrote out
+a description of it, and photographed it. Dismay now filled the soul of
+the _agente_, and the one _principal_ whom he had summoned for advice.
+They talked long and earnestly with me about the _mapa_, and begged me
+to assure the _jefe_ that it was no good; that it was not _autorizado_;
+that it was _mudo_. To quiet their fears, I was compelled to write a
+letter to that effect to be delivered to the _jefe_; if it ever came to
+hand, he certainly found it incomprehensible. Mrs. Seler, in her book,
+describes the trouble that they had in seeing this _mapa_, and the
+interest which their examination of it aroused. Dr. Castle told us
+that, several years ago, he accompanied a Mr. Werner and a priest to
+Huilotepec to see the _mapa_, and, if possible, to secure a picture of
+it. For a long time they were unable to secure a glimpse of the old
+document, and it was only when the priest assured the indians that the
+doctor was an American engineer, who had been commissioned to survey
+the line in dispute between the village and the Juaves, that they were
+allowed to see it. Before permission was then given, a general meeting
+of the _principales_ was held, and none of the guests were permitted to
+touch the document. Mr. Werner made an exposure, which he sent to the
+States for development; it was lost or destroyed. It is thus possible
+that ours is the only picture of it in existence.
+
+We had been told that a coach went regularly from San Geronimo to Tuxtla
+Gutierrez, making the journey in two days. This seemed too good to be
+true, and no one at Tehuantepec knew anything of such an arrangement,
+but we took the train the following morning for San Geronimo, hoping to
+get off without delay. All that the traveller sees upon descending from
+the train is the station, the place of Senor Espindola, and the little
+Hotel Europa. To our surprise, we found that our baggage had not yet
+come from Coatzacoalcos, although we had seen it loaded on the train
+ourselves. Still worse, we were informed that frequently fifteen days
+were consumed in transportation of freight from that point hither, and
+that we had no right to expect it so promptly. Inquiry regarding the
+coach revealed the fact that no such vehicle existed. Six hard days of
+horseback riding would be necessary for the journey, and, though
+Ramon admitted himself to be much better, he was too weak for such an
+undertaking. This had had its influence in determining us to go by
+coach in the first place. When in doubt as to what we should do, Senor
+Espindola suggested that the journey could be made by ox-cart in ten or
+eleven days. Though this seemed slow, it was better than to run risks
+with our invalid, and we determined to journey in that fashion as soon
+as our luggage should appear.
+
+The station is situated on a somewhat elevated plain, constantly swept
+by heavy winds. While we were there, this wind was hot, and loaded with
+dust. In the afternoon, we walked through the indian town, which extends
+over a considerable area. The houses are rectangular, with adobe walls,
+mostly whitewashed, and with steep, pitched roofs. We met a funeral
+procession in the road, with the usual band in front. The coffin open,
+so as to show the child, was carried on the shoulders of several men.
+The mother, in contortions of real or simulated grief, was supported by
+two women, and the mourners brought up the rear, wailing now and then.
+Among the mourners was a woman who suffered from black _pinto_, notably
+developed. The principal industry of the town is pottery. The clay,
+which is of a greyish-black color, is stiff and hard, and is first
+broken up with a mallet. When worked into a stiff paste, it is built
+by hand into great _ollas_ and plates, one and a half or two feet in
+diameter. These _ollas_ we saw at many houses, and sometimes they were
+lashed to carts, plainly for bringing water from the stream. A single
+_olla_ thus lashed, practically filled a fair-sized cart.
+
+[Illustration: DRYING POTTERY; SAN GERONIMO]
+
+[Illustration: CART AND OLLA; SAN GERONIMO]
+
+The little hotel at the station is a new venture, and deserves complete
+success. At few places in Mexico have we found meals so good and cheap.
+In the evening, more from curiosity than expectation, we watched the
+train come from the east, and to our surprise and satisfaction, found
+our luggage. We had really made up our minds that we must spend some
+days in waiting; on the whole, the quiet and comfort of the little
+tavern would not have been unpleasant; but we hastened at once to Senor
+Espindola, and urged him to make instant arrangements for our leaving in
+the morning. To this he replied that no _carretero_ would be likely to
+start on Sunday, and that we would have to wait until the following
+day. Matters turned out better than anticipated, and before nine, the
+following morning, our arrangements had been made. Two _carretas_ were
+hired, at twenty-eight pesos each, to make the journey; our driver
+agreed that, without counting that day, he could get us to Tuxtla in
+eight days; in order to encourage him, we promised to pay five pesos
+extra for each _carreta_, in case we reached the city of Tuxtla on
+Monday the 11th. His name was Eustasio; he was a good-natured little
+Zapotec, from Juchitan originally, but living now at Guvino, Union
+Hidalgo. He warned us that, for the first day, we would have to put up
+with some discomfort, but that, upon reaching his home, he would fit us
+out magnificently. He promised to start at four that afternoon, and we
+were ready; of course, he was not, nor was he at five; so we went back
+to the hotel for a last good supper, and finally at 5:50 started. There
+were four teams and carts in the company, loaded with freight for
+Hidalgo. The night was clear, with a fine moon. The road was over heavy
+sand. Sometimes we walked in the moonlight, passing Ixtaltepec at 8:30,
+and reaching Espinal at ten, where we lost three-quarters of an hour in
+loading freight. From there all went well, until a-quarter-of-two in
+the morning, when we were passing through a country covered with scrub
+timber. Here we constantly met many carts heavily loaded; the road was
+narrow, and several times collisions, due to the falling asleep of one
+or other of the _carreteros_, were narrowly escaped. Finally, one really
+did take place, between our second cart and a heavily loaded one going
+in the other direction. The axle of our cart was broken, and the vehicle
+totally disabled. Two hours and a quarter were consumed in making
+repairs and in reloading. Here, for the first time, we were impressed
+with two characteristics in our driver: first, his ability to swear,
+surpassing anything that we had ever heard; second, his astonishing
+skill and ingenuity in repairing any accident or break, which happened
+on the road. Before our journey was over, we learned that both these
+qualities are common to his profession. It was four o'clock in the
+morning before we were again upon our way. All hope of reaching Union
+Hidalgo at the promised hour disappeared. Before sunrise, we had turned
+into the hot, dusty, broad, straight high-road, which, after my journey
+of 1896, I had devoutly hoped never to see again. Just as the sun
+rose, we took quite a walk, killing some parrots, _calandrias_, and
+_chacalaccas_ as we walked. They said that _javali_--peccaries,--were
+common there. The day was blisteringly hot, long before we reached Union
+Hidalgo; hot, hungry and sleepy, we reached our carter's home, a little
+before ten in the morning. The _carreta_ in which we were travelling was
+here far ahead, and after we had rested half-an-hour or more, Manuel,
+hot and perspiring, appeared, and reported that the disabled cart had
+broken down again, and that the other two were delayed by a sick animal.
+All came straggling in later. We had planned to leave here toward
+evening, travelling all Monday night; but hardly had we rested a little,
+and eaten dinner, when Eustasio announced that we should spend the night
+here, and not leave until the following afternoon. He said the animals
+were hot and tired from travelling in the daytime, and that to push on
+would defeat our plans. He swore that, unless God decreed otherwise, we
+should reach Tuxtla Gutierrez by the promised date. There was nothing
+for it but submission, though we would gladly have chosen a more
+interesting town than Union Hidalgo for a stay of almost two days. When
+evening came, I took my bed of poles out into the open air, into the
+space between two houses; Ramon lay down upon a loaded _carreta_, also
+out of doors, while Louis and Manuel took possession of hammocks in one
+of the houses. It was a cloudless night, with brilliant moon. The air
+soon grew cool. After midnight, I was aroused by the most frightful
+yelling, and opening my eyes, I saw a barefooted, bareheaded Indian
+yelling out the most frightful imprecations and oaths. At first I
+thought that he was insulting some one in the house, but both the houses
+were fast closed. Ramon, completely wrapped in his blanket, could
+attract no notice, and I did not believe that I had been observed, nor
+that I was addressed. For quite ten minutes the crazy drunkard stood
+there in the moonlight, bawling out a frightful torrent of abuse,
+invective, and profanity, with an occasional "_Viva Mexico! Muere
+Guatemala_!" patriotically thrown in.
+
+[Illustration: THE DRUNKARD'S EXCHANGE; UNION HIDALGO]
+
+[Illustration: BEFORE REACHING UNION HIDALGO]
+
+At last he disappeared, but for a long time could be heard howling,
+as he went from house to house. Believing that it might be well to be
+prepared for intruders, I arose and pulled a stake from one of the
+carts, and laid it at my side, upon the bed. But I was soon fast asleep
+again. Awaking at five, I found myself so cold, and the dew so heavy,
+that I dressed, and wrapped my blanket around me, and sat up, waiting
+for daylight. At 5:30 our drunken friend passed again, somewhat less
+voluble, but still vociferous. He was absolutely crazed with drink, and
+through the day several times made his appearance, and always with a
+torrent of abuse and profanity which made one's blood run cold. Before
+the day was well begun, a second person, almost as drunk, but far more
+quiet, a nice-looking old man, began making similar visits about the
+village. The two drunkards, differing in age and build, differed also in
+dress, but on the occasion of one of their visits, they were taken with
+the crazy notion of exchanging clothes, and proceeded to undress, making
+the exchange, and re-clothing themselves in garments ridiculously
+non-fitting--all with the utmost gravity and unsteadiness. During
+the day, our _carretas_ were being prepared. Apologizing for the
+inconvenience of the preceding day, Eustasio proposed to fix our cart
+"as fine as a church." He put a decent cover over it, and laid our sacks
+of plaster on the floor. Upon this, he spread a layer of corn-stalks,
+and over them, a new and clean _petate_. To be sure, the space left
+above was low for comfort, and we were horrified when we saw him loading
+up the second one, not only with the balance of our luggage, but high
+with maize, fodder, and great nets of ears of corn, to feed the animals.
+We had supposed that two persons and part of the luggage would go in
+each of the carts, and never thought of carrying food enough to last
+four oxen eight days. Crowding four people into our _carreta_ made it
+impossible to lie down in comfort. Still, such is the custom of the
+country, and we submitted. During the day we heard a woman crying in
+a house. Upon investigating, we found that she was the wife of a
+_carretero_ who had been injured on the road, and for whom a _carreta_
+had been sent. Shortly afterward, they brought the poor fellow into
+town, amid weeping and lamenting. When they took him from the _carreta_
+in which he had been brought, he was supported by two men and helped
+into the house, where he was laid upon a hammock. He groaned with pain,
+and a crowd of curious villagers pressed into the room.
+
+It was easy to locate four broken ribs behind, and he complained of
+great internal bleeding. It seemed that he had started to climb up onto
+his moving cart in the usual way, and the stake which he had seized
+broke, letting him fall to the ground under the wheel of the
+heavily-loaded cart, which passed over his body.
+
+Finally, all was ready, and at about five in the evening we started.
+Packed like sardines in a box, we were most uncomfortable. Personally, I
+did not try to sleep, neither lying down, nor closing my eyes. Shortly
+after leaving town, we crossed a running stream, and from the other side
+went over a piece of corduroy, upon which we jounced and jolted. Soon
+after, we descended into a little gully, from which our team had
+difficulty in drawing us. The baggage-cart had a more serious time; the
+team made several attempts to drag it up the slope, but failed, even
+though our whole company, by pushing and bracing, encouraging and
+howling, aided. There was a real element of danger in such help, the
+slipping animals and the back-sliding cart constantly threatening to
+fall upon the pushers. Finally, the cart was propped upon the slope, and
+its own team removed; our team, which was heavier and stronger, was then
+hitched on, but it was only with a hard tug, and with heavy pushing,
+that success was gained, and the cart reached the summit of the slope.
+We crossed a fine marsh of salt water, quite like the lagoon at San
+Mateo del Mar, and were told that we were not far from the Juave town
+of San Dionisio. From here, the country, was, for a distance, an open
+plain. With the moonlight, the night was almost as bright as day; cold
+winds swept sheets of sand and dust over us. At one o'clock, we happened
+upon a cluster of six or eight carts, drawn up for rest, and the company
+of travellers were warming themselves at little fires, or cooking a late
+supper. We learned that this gypsy-like group was a _compania comica_,
+a comic theatre troupe, who had been playing at Tuxtla, and were now on
+their way to Juchitan. We never before realized that such travelling of
+ox-carts as we were now experiencing was a regular matter, and that the
+carter's trade is a real business. At two o'clock, we stopped to repack
+our loads, but were shortly on the way again. After the sun rose, we
+were in misery; the road was deep with dust, and we were grimy, hot, and
+choking. When the cross that marks the beginning of the land belonging
+to Ixhuatlan was pointed out, we were delighted, but it was still a long
+ride before we crossed the little stream and rode into the village.
+
+Ixhuatlan is like all the Zapotec towns of this district, but less
+clean, on account of its lying in the midst of dust, instead of sand.
+Our carts drew up in a little grove, a regular resting-place for carting
+companies, where more than fifteen were already taking their daytime
+rest. Having ordered breakfast, we hastened to the stream, where all
+enjoyed a bath and cleansing. Coffee, bread, _tortillas_, eggs, and
+brandied peaches, made a good impression, and we ordered our buxom young
+Zapotec cook, who was a hustler, to have an equally good dinner ready at
+2:30. We set this hour, believing that she would be late, but she was
+more than prompt, and called us at two to a chicken dinner. It was
+interesting to watch the _carreteros_ in the grove. The scenes of
+starting and arriving, packing and unpacking, chaffing and quarreling,
+were all interesting. In the lagoons of Vera Cruz, our boatmen applied
+the term _jornada_ to a straight stretch across a lagoon made at one
+poling; here among the _carreteros_, the word _jornada_ means the run
+made from resting-place to resting-place. In neither case is strict
+attention paid to the original meaning of the word, a day's journey.
+Ixhuatlan is a made town; a paternal government, disturbed over the no
+progress of the pure Juaves in their seaside towns, set aside the ground
+on which this town now rests, and moved a village of Juaves to the
+spot. High hopes were expressed for the success of the experiment; now,
+however, the town is not a Juave town. It is true, that a few families
+of that people still remain, but for the most part, the Juaves have
+drifted back to the shore, and resumed their fishing, shrimp-catching
+and salt-making, while the expansive Zapotecs have crowded in, and
+practically make up the population of the place. Between dinner and
+our starting, we wandered about the village, dropping into the various
+houses in search of relics. As elsewhere, we were impressed with the
+independent bearing and freeness of the Zapotec woman. She talks with
+everyone, on any subject, shrewdly. She loves to chaff, and is willing
+to take sarcasm, as freely as she gives it. In one house we had a
+specially interesting time, being shown a lot of things. The woman had
+some broken pottery figures of ancient times, but also produced some
+interesting crude affairs of modern make from Juchitan. These were
+figures of men and women--the latter generally carrying babies in indian
+fashion--of horses and other animals. As works of art, they make no
+pretension, but they are stained with native colors, and are used as
+gifts at New Year's by the common people. Here we saw the making of
+baked _tortillas_, and sampled some hot from the oven. Such _tortillas_
+are called _tortillas del horno_--oven _tortillas_. Flat _tortillas_,
+about the size of a fruit-plate, are fashioned in the usual way; a great
+_olla_ is sunk in the ground until its mouth is level with the surface.
+This is kept covered by a _comal_, or a smaller _olla_, and a good hot
+fire of coals is kept burning within. When the _tortillas_ have been
+shaped, they are stuck on the hot _olla_, being pressed against the
+sides, to which they adhere, and are left to bake. In baking, the edges
+curl up so that the cake, instead of being flat, is saucer-shaped. They
+are crisp and good. Leaving at four, we continued on the hot, deep,
+dusty road, but saw interesting plants and animals along the way.
+There were fine displays of the parasitic fig, from examples where the
+parasite was just beginning to embrace its victim, through cases where
+it had surrounded the tree with a fine network of its own material, to
+those where the original tree-trunk was entirely imbedded in the great
+continuous gray investing trunk of the parasite, now larger than its
+host. Some trees bore bunches of pale-purple flowers of tubular form,
+which fell easily from the calyx, and dotted the ground along the
+roadside. Other trees appeared as if covered with veils of little
+purplish-red flowers hung over them. Others were a mass of golden bloom,
+the flowers being about the size of cherry blossoms. A few trees, yet
+leafless, showed large, brilliant white flowers at the tips of rather
+slender branches. At Ixhuatlan, we saw the first monkey's comb of the
+trip. This orange-yellow flower, growing in clusters so curiously shaped
+as to suggest the name, is among the most characteristic, from this
+point on through Chiapas into Guatemala. There were but few birds, but
+among them were macaws and toucans. Eustasio said that in the season,
+when certain berry-bearing trees are in full fruit, the latter may be
+seen by hundreds.
+
+When night had really fallen, I unwisely sat in front with the driver,
+to prevent his sleeping, and to keep the animals moving. Both drivers
+had a way of dozing off, utterly regardless of the movements of the
+animals or the dangers of the road. Carts going in opposite directions
+must often depend absolutely upon the oxen for their chance of escaping
+collisions or being thrown over precipices. Frequently the animals
+themselves stop, and the whole company is at a standstill until the
+driver wakes up. In this _jornada_, we had planned to reach La Frontera,
+the border of the state of Chiapas, at which place we had been promised
+we should arrive at 8:30 in the morning. Everything had gone well, and
+we were just about to reach the place, where it was planned to repack
+for the last time; it was just daylight, and Eustasio was congratulating
+us upon our prompt arrival; we drove to the brink of a dry stream, on
+the other side of which was our resting-place; just at that instant,
+we heard the other driver cry out; we stopped, and found that the
+baggage-cart was overturned. This dashed all hopes. There was
+unhitching, unloading, the making of a new axle, and reloading. It was
+plain that we could not reach La Frontera. While the men were putting
+things to rights, we strolled up the dry stream-bed to a shanty, where
+Eustasio told us we could breakfast. There was a well there, with fresh
+water, and the shanty, for the refreshment of travellers, consisted of
+nothing but a little shelter of poles. Here, however, we found baked
+_tortillas, atole_, and hard meat; the breakfast for four persons, cost
+twenty-five centavos, equal to ten cents American money. Through the
+day, birds were hunted and skinned, reading and writing carried on,
+until at half-past-three in the afternoon we were again ready for
+movement. The road was now sandy, and not dusty, the sand being produced
+by the decomposition of crystalline rocks. Mounting to a high _llano_,
+we shot a pair of curious birds, which looked like water-birds, but were
+living in a dry place and were able to run with great speed. They were
+of the size of a hen, and had a long beak, long legs and four flat
+though not webbed toes. At the end of this high _llano_, we passed the
+Hacienda of Agua Blanca, a property belonging to the _jefe_ of Juchitan.
+From here, we descended rapidly over a poor road, coming out at nine
+onto the straight road from Tapanatepec, at this point four leagues
+behind us. From here on, the whole road was familiar to me. La Frontera
+was just ahead, and, arriving there at 10 o'clock, we spent an hour.
+Before us rose a massive mountain, the ascent of which seemed appalling.
+We could see a white line of road zigzagging up its side, and well
+remembered Governor Leon's pride in having constructed a cart-road
+against great natural difficulties. Thirty or forty ox-teams had
+gathered here, either ready to make the ascent, or resting, after having
+come down the mountain. Having gotten breath and courage, we started at
+about eleven. The road had suffered during the five years since I last
+passed over it, but was still an excellent work of engineering. As we
+mounted, zigzagging constantly, the magnificent view over the valley
+widened; each new turn increased its beauty. My companions were asleep,
+and had had so little rest recently, that I hated to disturb them for
+the view. When, however, we were two-thirds up the slope, they awakened,
+and were as delighted as myself. We all got out, and walked for a
+considerable distance. An astonishing number of little streams and pools
+of fresh water burst forth from the rocks, and cut across the road or
+flowed along its sides. Finally, we reached the summit, and began the
+descent. This had made no impression on me when I went over it on
+horseback, but travelling in an ox-cart was a different matter, and I
+shall never again forget it. It was less abrupt than the ascent--less of
+vertical zigzag, and more of long steady windings. It also was excavated
+in the solid rock. It was badly neglected, and the cart jolted, and
+threatened every instant to upset us, or leap into the gulf. Coming
+out into a more level district, we passed Paraje and Dolores, reaching
+Carizal at five, where we stopped for the day. This is a regular resting
+place for _carreteros_, and there were plenty of carts there for the
+day.
+
+As soon as the oxen were unyoked, I turned out my companions and lay
+down in the cart, trying to get an hour's sleep before the sun should
+rise, as I had not closed my eyes since leaving Union Hidalgo two days
+before. I was asleep at once, but in less than an hour was awakened
+by the assaults of swarms of minute black-flies, whose stings were
+dreadful. The rest of the company suffered in the same way, so we all
+got up and went to work. A group of _carreteros_ breakfasting, invited
+me to eat with them--hard _tortillas, atole_ and salted meat, formed a
+much better breakfast than we got, a little later, at the house upon the
+hill where travellers eat their meals. At this house they had a little
+parrot which was very tame, and also a _chacalacca_, which had been
+hatched by a domestic hen from a captured egg. This bird is more slender
+and graceful than a hen, but our landlord informed us that its eggs are
+much larger than those of the common fowl, and much used for food. Both
+this bird and the little parrot regularly fly off with flocks of their
+wild fellows, but always come back afterward to the house. This was a
+most interesting example of an intermediate stage between true wildness
+and domestication. There was little doing throughout the day. Heat,
+black-flies, and sunlight all made it impossible to sleep; but we took a
+bath in the running brook, and skinned some birds, and tasted _posole_
+for the first time. _Posole_ is a mixture of pounded or ground corn and
+sugar, of a yellow or brownish color, much like grape-nuts. It may be
+eaten dry, but is much more commonly mixed with water. The indian dips
+up a _jicara_ full of clear spring water, and then, taking a handful of
+_posole_ from his pouch, kneads it up until a rather thick, light-yellow
+liquid results, which is drunk, and is refreshing and satisfying.
+
+Almost all the _carreteros_ at this camp were Juchitecos. They were
+great, strong fellows, and almost all of them wore the old-fashioned
+indian breech-clout of red cotton under their drawers or trousers.
+When they were working at their carts, greasing the wheels, or making
+repairs, they were apt to lay by all their clothing but this simple
+piece of cloth, and their dark-brown bodies, finely muscled, hard and
+tough, presented handsome pictures. The little fellows who accompanied
+them, up to the age of twelve, usually ran about with no article of
+clothing save their little breech-clouts and white cotton shirts. In the
+early afternoon, serious work began, and everywhere we saw these men
+patching coverings, greasing wheels, readjusting cargoes, feeding and
+watering their animals, harnessing, and making other preparations for
+leaving. During the idle portion of the day, dice were in evidence,
+and Eustasio was fascinated with the game. The stakes, of course, were
+small, but he kept at it persistently until he had lost five pesos,
+when, with forcible words, he gave up. I am sure the dice were loaded,
+but I am equally sure, from all I know of Eustasio, that the next time
+he makes that journey, he will have some loaded dice himself. Setting
+out at 3:30, we were at the head of a long line of cars, and were soon
+making another steady zigzag to ever greater heights than those before
+climbed. According to the official _itinerario_, the distance from
+Dolores to San Miguel is five leagues; we had left Dolores a league
+behind in arriving at Carizal, and we naturally assumed that four
+leagues would bring us to San Miguel. Eustasio, however, who never
+under-estimated, claimed that it would take constant travelling until
+eight in the morning to reach Los Pinos, which is still this side of San
+Miguel. This is a fair example of the inaccuracy of figures published by
+the government. As I looked behind at the long line of carts, some of
+which were empty, and able to journey at good speed, the desire took
+possession of me to hire one, at least for a short distance, in the hope
+of getting a little sleep. Looking over the line, to make my choice, I
+had just selected one, and was about to broach my plan, when its driver
+ran the vehicle into the branches of a tree, which projected over
+the road, and tore away his awning. The idea was unaffected by this
+accident, however, and picking out a cart, which had a thick layer of
+corn-husks piled in it, promising a comfortable bed, I arranged my
+bargain with the owner, and deserted my party, betaking myself to my
+private car. Having no load, we pushed ahead and, stretching myself at
+full length upon the heap of corn-husks, I was soon asleep. It was my
+purpose to disembark at Los Pinos, but we had passed that place long
+before I awoke, and were in sight of San Miguel when I opened my
+eyes. It was too early for breakfast, so I concluded to ride along to
+Macuilapa, where my carter turned off into another road. It was just
+eight when we arrived, and I thought of my companions as probably just
+reaching Los Pinos. Starting from there at three in the afternoon, they
+should overtake me at seven. So I took possession of the great country
+house, sitting in the corridor all day long. The house is a long, large,
+single-storied building, with heavy tiled-roof; the store-houses, sheds
+and other out-houses, with the adobe huts belonging to the workmen,
+surround a somewhat regular area. The view, however, in front of the
+house is uninterrupted, and looks off into a narrow valley, bounded
+prettily by hills. The house has a wide brick-paved corridor. Near
+it was an interesting ancient stone carving. The rock was coarsely
+crystalline, and gray, or olive-gray in color. It had been battered into
+the bold, simple outline of a frog, crouched for leaping; the head had
+an almost human face, with a single central tooth projecting from the
+lower jaw. The work was in low relief, and looked as if the ancient
+workman had taken a natural boulder, and beaten with his hammer-stone
+only sufficiently to bring out the details. The stone measured perhaps
+four feet in length, three feet in breadth, and two feet in thickness.
+It was found in the mountains near, and, from the marks upon it, seems
+to have been embedded in the soil half way up the legs. Probably, when
+first made, it was placed so that the feet were even with the ground
+surface, but the accumulation of vegetable soil since has been
+considerable. The Hacienda of Macuilapa manufactures sugar and raises
+indigo, quantities of the seed of which were being cleaned when I was
+there. The owner of the place is a man of means, but the meals served
+were of a mean and frugal kind. Everyone made dire prophecies about the
+time of possible arrival of my companions, and the period necessary
+for our further journey to Tuxtla Gutierrez. I had not expected my
+companions before seven, and after these dismal forebodings, gave up
+that expectation. To my surprise, they appeared, in good health and
+spirits, at five o'clock, though with exciting tales of peril and
+suffering. After a meal together, we again mounted in the old fashion,
+and were on our way. The air was fresh and cool, and at 9:30 the moon
+rose, giving perfect light. The road was high and sandy, with occasional
+small ascents and descents. At eleven we stopped to rest, I agreeing
+to wake them all at midnight; at one o'clock I was awakened by our
+_carretero_ raising the tongue of the wagon! We passed La Razon at
+three. As one of the oxen, which had been somewhat lame, was now in bad
+condition, we all dismounted, half-a-league before we reached Zapote,
+and walked the rest of the way. The Hacienda of Zapote is really almost
+a town. There are two _fincas_, belonging to two brothers. Their fine
+large houses, the out-buildings, and the clusters of adobe huts for the
+workmen, make an imposing appearance. We stopped at the first group of
+buildings, which stands a little lower than the other. Arriving at six,
+we spent the whole day at this place; the meals at the great house were
+excellent and cheap. In the afternoon we heard marimba-playing; the
+instrument was called _la golondrina_ and cost the owner forty-three
+pesos.
+
+[Illustration: A DAY REST; THE CARIZAL]
+
+[Illustration: MARIMBA-PLAYING; HACIENDA DE ZAPOTE]
+
+The players were carefully trained, being four brothers. The youngest of
+them was not more than fourteen years old, but he put much expression
+and spirit into his playing. It was the first time that any of the
+party, but myself, had heard this instrument, and all were delighted
+at its brilliant, quick, and pleasing music. We left at 3:45 in the
+afternoon, but our ailing animal was worse than ever, and Eustasio ran
+ahead, trying to secure others at different ranches. He had had no
+success when, after a rough ride of several hours, we drew up at
+Jiquipilas, where we waited until the morning. We planned to secure new
+animals, to leave at dawn, and to reach Tuxtla after a twenty-four hour
+ride. We laid down and slept, waking at five, but finding no sign of
+animals. We breakfasted at seven, and a little later the new oxen
+appeared. There were two yokes of rather light animals. Leaving our sick
+beast, and driving the other three along with us, the new animals were
+put to the loads, and at eight o'clock we started. I failed to recognize
+Rancho Disengano, but having passed it, we found ourselves at the bottom
+of the much-dreaded, last important climb of the journey. The little
+team dragging the passenger cart was inefficient and unruly; tiring
+of them, I dismounted and went ahead on foot. For a time I drove the
+unyoked cattle, but a stubborn one wandering into the brush, I gave up
+the job, and left poor Louis, who had just overtaken me, to chase him.
+He had hard work, through tangled brush, here and there, up and down,
+until at last the animal was once more upon the road. The boy was hot,
+tired, and loaded with _pinolillos_. These insects had been in evidence
+for a long time back. They are exceedingly small ticks, which fix their
+claws firmly in the flesh, and cause intolerable itching. Keeping in the
+road, the traveller is little likely to be troubled by them; but walking
+through grass, or among leafy plants, is dangerous. Having climbed a
+portion of our great ascent, we found ourselves at Agua Bendita. It was
+not as beautiful as on the occasion of my other visit; the projecting
+ledge of rock had little water dripping, and in the round catch-basins,
+which formerly were filled with fresh, clear water, there was scarcely
+any; on account of the unusual dryness, the ferns were wilted, and there
+was little of that beauty and freshness which so delighted me before.
+Eustasio said that he had never seen the spot so dry in all his many
+journeys. Nor were there orchids blooming on the great tree near; nor
+any of the little toucans which had been so attractive in 1896. As we
+stood, seeking for these well-remembered things, we heard curious cries
+rising from the valley. At first, I thought it was indians wailing for
+the dead; then, that it was a band of pilgrims singing. But it turned
+out to be a company of cowboys, bringing cattle up for shipment to
+Tabasco. Some rode ahead, and, with loud but not unmusical cries,
+invited and urged the animals and their drivers to follow. The beasts
+were divided into three bands, thirty or forty in a band, each of which
+had its mounted drivers. The animals were lively, and we were warned
+that they were _muy bravo_. Manuel had taken the task of driving our
+loose cattle, and was fearful that he would be overtaken, asserting that
+the cowboys had said that he must keep on, as they could not pass him
+with their animals. When he came up to where we were, we put a quick
+end to his folly, driving our three oxen to the outer edge of the road,
+where Louis and he stood guard over them, while I crept up on the cliff
+to avoid scaring the animals that were coming. It took much driving,
+urging, and coaxing on the part of the cowboys to get the first two or
+three to pass us, but after they had led the way, the others followed
+with a rush.
+
+[Illustration: AGUA BENDITA]
+
+[Illustration: MOVING THE GREAT STONE; AGUA BENDITA]
+
+Presently our passenger-cart came along, with both teams of oxen hitched
+to it; the new animals had proved too light to drag their proper loads,
+so the freight-cart had been left behind, and the full force employed in
+dragging the first cart up the hill. Just beyond this spot, we found a
+gang of indians, under a superintendent, prying off an immense rock mass
+that had fallen from the cliff above onto the road, with the intention
+of dumping it over the wall into the abyss. It would have been a sight
+to have seen it plunge, but we had no time to wait, so simply stopped
+a few minutes to see the method of moving the immense mass with pole
+pries. Our cart had gone ahead, so we finished the ascent on foot, and
+having gained the summit, walked a short distance on the high plateau to
+Petapa, where the cart and _carretero_, Manuel and Ramon, were waiting.
+Before we arrived, we met our men going back with the four oxen for
+the freight-cart. We had supper at the ranch, and waited, until at six
+o'clock everything was ready. Here we sent back the two yokes of animals
+which we had brought from Jiquipilas, and secured a fine, strong beast
+to make up our number, and started. We did not stop to grease the
+wheels, for lack of time. It was dark, and the first part of the journey
+was uncertain and difficult; coming out on to the Llano Grande, we found
+things easy, though here and there were stony places, where we jolted
+fearfully. At 10:30, we had passed La Cienega, and our ungreased wheels
+were not only an annoyance, but, Eustasio suggested, a source of danger,
+as they might take fire. So, at 11:30, we stopped to grease them. As the
+axles and wheels were then too hot for grease to be safely applied, we
+lay down while they should cool. Probably in less than five minutes, we
+were all asleep, and no one moved until, waking with a start and looking
+at my watch, I found it two in the morning. We hastily applied grease,
+without removing the wheels, and hurried onward, passing Sabino Perez,
+Yerba Santa, and Sabinal. Here, the errors in our _itinerario_, and in
+our driver's guessing at distances, were curiously emphasized. We had a
+rather heavy descent, for some distance, over a limestone hill called
+Santo Domingo. Nowhere do I know of any road which, under the best
+of circumstances, seems as long as the last stretch before Tuxtla
+Gutierrez. This we had noticed on our earlier journey, when we were
+mounted on horseback. Present conditions were not likely to diminish the
+impression. At last, at 11:30 in the morning of March 12, we reached the
+capital city of the State of Chiapas, and were taken by our _carretero_
+to the little old Hotel Mexico, kept by Paco, where we met a hearty
+welcome and, for several days, made up for the hardships of our journey
+in the way of eating.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXIV
+
+AT TUXTLA GUTIERREZ
+
+(1901)
+
+
+We knew that Governor Pimentel was not at home, having met him in
+Coalzacoalcos, where we had presented our official letters, and had
+received from him a communication to his Lieutenant-Governor, Lopez.
+Having spent the afternoon in settling and cleaning, I called in the
+evening upon Governor Lopez and explained my needs. After chatting a
+little time together, he inquired whether I had not made the steamboat
+journey from Coalzacoalcos to Vera Cruz in March, 1896, and, upon my
+answering in the affirmative, told me that we had been fellow-travellers
+on that occasion. He promised that there should be no delay, and made
+an appointment with me for the morning. I then called on Don Conrado
+Palacios, who lived directly opposite our little tavern, and who claimed
+that he recognized me the moment I dismounted from our cart this
+morning. He is still photographer, but for three years of the time since
+last we met has been living in the State of Vera Cruz, and but lately
+returned to Tuxtla. In the morning, Governor Lopez supplied the letters
+for my further journey, and summoned the _jefe politico_ and the
+_presidente_ of the city and gave them personal orders that they were to
+assist, in every way, my work at Tuxtla, among the Zoques. The _jefe_
+himself took charge of my arrangements, put his office at my disposition
+for a workshop, and the work began at once. Contrary to my usual
+experience, we had less difficulty in securing female subjects here
+than male. The male indians of Tuxtla are, in large part, employed in
+contract labor on _fincas_ at a distance from the town. According to
+their contract, they are not subject to the order of local authorities,
+and may not be summoned without permission of their employers, or a
+pecuniary settlement with them. The first day, more than half the women
+were measured, and the second day, the rest. As is well known the women
+of Tehuantepec are famous for their beauty. It is not so well known that
+rivalry exists between them and the women of Tuxtla in this matter. This
+rivalry had been called to our attention on our preceding visit, and we
+found that it had in no wise abated. Personally, we saw no comparison
+between the two sets of women, the Tehuantepecanas being far superior.
+Eustasio, however, ungallantly and unpatriotically declared that he
+thought the women of Tuxtla the handsomer; however, we suspect that
+Eustasio would find the women of any town he might be in, the champions
+in beauty for the time being. Their dress is picturesque. The _enagua_
+is made of two strips of dark blue cloth, sewed together, side by side,
+with a fancy stitching of colored silks. The free borders are also
+decorated with similar stitching, and the ends of the strip, which is
+usually more than two yards in length, sewn together with similarly
+decorative needlework. In fastening this garment about the body, no belt
+is used. The open bag is gathered in about the waist, the surplus is
+folded into pleats in front and the overlap, at the upper edge, is so
+tucked in as to hold the garment tightly in place, and at the same time
+form a pouch, or pocket, in which small articles are carried. The little
+_huipil_, worn upon the upper body, is of thin, white cotton cloth,
+native-woven, but a neat and pretty stuff; there are no sleeves, and the
+neck-opening and arm-slits are bordered with pleated strips of cotton,
+worked with black embroidery. A larger _huipil_ is regularly carried,
+but we never saw it in use; practically, it never is worn. If put in
+place, it would form a garment for the body, with the neck-opening and
+sleeves bordered with lace, and the lower edge reaching to the knees.
+The woman carries this garment with her, folding it into a sort of pad,
+which she places on her head, letting it hang down upon the back and
+shoulders. Upon this cushion, the woman carries a great bowl, made from
+the rind of a sort of squash or pumpkin, in which she brings her stuff
+to market. These vessels are a specialty of the neighborhood, being made
+at Chiapa; they are richly decorated with a lacquer finish, of bright
+color. In carrying a baby, the child is placed against one side of the
+body, with its little legs astride, one in front and one behind, and
+then lashed in place by a strip of cloth, which is knotted over the
+woman's opposite shoulder. Almost every Zoque woman is asymmetrical,
+from this mode of carrying babies, one shoulder being much higher than
+the other. Among the subjects measured, was a woman notable in several
+ways. She was the fattest indian woman we had ever seen; she was the
+richest of her kind, and not only were her garments beautiful in work
+and decoration, but she was gorgeous with necklaces, bristling with gold
+coins and crosses; more than this, she was a capital case of purple
+_pinta_. The disease is common among the indians of the town, and, while
+both the red and white forms are found, purple seems to be the common
+type. Sometimes the face looks as if powder-burned, the purple blotch
+appearing as if in scattered specks; at other times, the purple spots
+are continuous, and the skin seems raised and pitted.
+
+[Illustration: ZOQUE MODE OF CARRYING BABIES; TUXTLA GUTIERREZ]
+
+[Illustration: FAT, RICH, AND PIXTA; TUXTLA GUTIERREZ]
+
+It appears that the adjusting of family quarrels and disputes between
+friends are among the duties of the _jefe_. In the office that day, a
+quarrel was settled involving two young men related by blood and by
+comradeship; a woman and a man of middle age were also interested;
+the quarrel had been a serious one, involving assaults, ambushes, and
+shootings. The _jefe_ first summoned each of the four persons singly,
+going over the whole matter with each one; the more intelligent of the
+two combatants was first to be reasoned with; then the woman was called
+in and he and she were left together in the office. For a long time,
+they would not even speak to each other. Finding this condition, the
+_jefe_ reasoned with them, and warned them that they must come to some
+conclusion, after which he left them to themselves again. At first
+they would not speak, but finally held a conversation, and came to an
+understanding; the old man was then called in and made to talk the
+matter over with the two, who had already been in conference. Lastly,
+the more belligerent youth was summoned, the _jefe_ remaining in the
+room with the whole party. At first he would not speak, but finally his
+pride and anger gave way, and he shook hands with his cousin, and the
+whole party left, after promising the _jefe_ that the past should be
+forgotten.
+
+The first afternoon that we were working, a curious couple came to the
+_jefe's_ office. The woman was not unattractive, though rather bold
+and hard in bearing. She was dark, pretentiously made-up, and rather
+elegantly dressed. The gentleman was a quiet, handsome fellow, dressed
+in sober black. When they sailed in, I supposed they were the _jefe's_
+personal friends. Sitting down, they showed interest in my work, and the
+lady in a rather strident voice, but with much composure, addressed
+us in English. Her knowledge of our language, however, proved to be
+extremely limited, being confined to such expressions as "How are you,
+sir?" "I am very well," "Yes, sir," "No, sir," and "I know New York."
+She was a mystery to the town, where she was commonly called "the
+Turkish lady."
+
+[Illustration: ZOQUE WOMEN; TUXTLA GUTIERREZ]
+
+[Illustration: THE INDIAN ALCALDES; TUXTLA GUTIERREZ]
+
+This nickname, her limited knowledge of English, and her boasted
+acquaintance with New York, aroused the question, in my mind, whether
+she might not have been an oriental dancer. She, herself, told us that
+she was born in South America, and referred to Caracas, as if it were a
+place with which she was familiar. The _jefe_ was extremely polite in
+his dealings with these people, and, as soon as they were seated, rang
+his bell for glasses, and we all drank the lady's health in cognac. The
+fact was, that these two persons were prisoners; they had come here
+within a few days, and had the city for a prison; as they had made no
+effort to leave the town, their movements were not interfered with, but
+if they had attempted to step outside the city limits, they would have
+been shot without a word of warning. The _jefe_ himself did not know who
+they were, nor what crime they had committed; nor did he know how long
+they would remain in his custody; they had come a weary journey, as he
+put it, "along the Cordillera;" they had been passed from hand to hand,
+from one _jefe_ to another; when the order came, he was to start them on
+their journey to the _jefe_ of the next district. Of the many stories
+told regarding them, a few will serve as samples. She was said to be the
+wife of a wealthy merchant of Campeche, from whom she had eloped with
+her companion, carrying away $150,000. According to another view, they
+were connected with an important band of forgers and robbers, who had
+been carrying on extensive operations. The most minutely detailed story,
+however, was that she had been the mistress and favorite of Francisco
+Canton, Governor of the State of Yucatan; that, pleased with a younger
+and handsomer man, she had stolen $7,000 from His Excellency, and
+attempted an elopement; that, captured, they were being sent as
+prisoners, nominally to Mexico. Whether any of these stories had a basis
+of fact, we cannot say, but from remarks the prisoners themselves made
+to us, we feel sure that the centre of their trouble was Merida, and
+that, in some way, they had offended the pompous governor. At all
+events, it is likely that, long before these words are written, both
+have met their death upon the road. It is a common thing for prisoners,
+passing along the Cordillera, to be shot "while attempting to escape
+from their guard."
+
+The _jefe politico_ of this district is a man of education, and
+professional ability; he is a physician, trained in the City of Mexico;
+he is ingenious in mechanics, and has devised a number of instruments
+and inventions of a scientific kind. He had been but a short time in
+this district, having come from Tonala, where he has a _finca_. He
+entertained us at his house, while we were there, and showed us every
+assistance. It is plain, however, that he found us a white elephant upon
+his hands. Not that his willingness was lacking, but where should
+he find one hundred indian men? We pestered him almost to death for
+subjects, when at last his _secretario_ suggested the district jail.
+This was a veritable inspiration. There they were sure we would have no
+difficulty in finding the remainder of our hundred. To the jail we went,
+but out of seventy-five prisoners fully half were Tzotzils from Chamula
+and not Zoques. More than half of the remainder were not indian, but
+_mestizos_. In fact, out of the total number, only a baker's dozen
+served our purpose. When we again presented ourselves, the following
+morning, for subjects, the poor man was in genuine desperation. But
+again his assistant made a shrewd suggestion. Yesterday we were at the
+jail; to-day we should go to the _cuartel_, and measure the soldiers.
+There were two hundred there, and this would more than see us through.
+The _jefe_ himself accompanied us to the barracks and introduced us to
+the colonel, leaving orders that we should be supplied with every aid,
+and went off happy, in the sense of a bad job well done. But out of the
+two hundred soldiers in the barracks, just ten turned out to be Zoques
+of pure blood. And long before the day was over, we were again clamoring
+at the _jefe's_ house for thirty-six more subjects. To tell the truth,
+we doubted his ability to secure them, and, in order to lose no time,
+started our goods and plaster by _carreta_ for San Cristobal. Still,
+while it was plain that he did not know where to look for help, the good
+man assured us that we should have our thirty-six subjects the next
+morning. Meantime, he sent officials with us to visit certain indian
+houses which we desired to examine, and arranged that we should see a
+certain characteristic indian dance at his house, at four o'clock that
+afternoon.
+
+Tuxtla Gutierrez is a capital city. It is also a busy commercial centre.
+Of course, the population is for the most part _mestizo_, and not
+indian. We had been surprised at finding so many indians in the city as
+there were. We were yet more surprised to find to what extent the
+houses of the city, though admirably built, were truly indian in style,
+presenting many points of interest. The walls of the "god-house" were
+heavy and substantial, smoothly daubed with mud, neatly plastered and
+often adorned with colored decorations. The "cook-house," slighter and
+less well-built, was made of poles daubed with mud, and rough with heavy
+thatching. The granary was elevated above the ground, and sheltered with
+its own neat thatching.
+
+In the afternoon, at four o'clock, we betook ourselves to the _jefe's_
+house to see the dance. At Tuxtla, there are two town governments,
+that of the _mestizos_ and that of the indians. The indian
+officials--"_alcaldes indios_"--are recognizable by their dress, which
+is a survival of the ancient indian dress of the district. Their
+_camisa_, broad hat, and leather breeches, are characteristic. Around
+the head, under the hat, they wear a red cloth, and those who have
+served as indian _alcaldes_ continue to wear this head-cloth after their
+official service ends. These indian officials had been commissioned to
+bring together the dancers, and make all necessary arrangements. The
+colonel, the prisoners of state, and one or two other guests were
+present. The leader of the dance was gaily dressed, in a pair of wide
+drawers with lace about the legs below the knee, a pair of overdrawers
+made of bright-colored handkerchiefs, and a helmet or cap of bright-red
+stuff from which rose a crest of macaw feathers, tipped with tufts of
+cotton. On his back, he bore a kind of pouch, the upper edge of which
+was bordered with a line of macaw feathers. In his hand, he carried a
+wooden war-axe. A pretty little girl, dressed in a Guatemaltec _enagua_,
+wore a fancy head-dress, and, in her hand, bore a _jicara_, which was
+filled with pink carnival flowers. These two dancers faced each other
+and in dancing moved slowly back and forth, and from one foot to the
+other; the only other dancers were two men, one of whom was dressed as,
+and took the part of a woman. This couple danced in much the same way,
+but with greater freedom than the chief persons, and at times circled
+around them. The music consisted of a violin and native _pito_ or pipe,
+and a drum of the _huehuetl_ type,--cut from a single cylindrical block,
+but with skin stretched over both ends instead of one.
+
+I was surprised the following morning when thirty-six subjects were
+produced; we knew that, for the moment, the building operations of the
+government palace were discontinued, and we suspected that all the work
+done by indians in Tuxtla was likewise temporarily ceased. When the last
+one had passed under the instruments, the _jefe_ heaved a sigh, rang his
+bell for glasses, and the event was celebrated by a final draught of
+cognac.
+
+[Illustration: ZOQUE DANCERS; TUXTLA GUTIERREZ]
+
+[Illustration: TZENDALS FROM TENEJAPA; COLD HANDS]
+
+The man with whom we had expected to arrange for animals had promised to
+come to the hotel at seven. He came not then, nor at half-past, nor at
+eight, nor at nine. When we sent an inquiry, he made the cool reply,
+that it was now too late to arrange matters; that he would see us at
+eight the following morning. Furious at his failure, we ourselves went
+with the boy from the hotel at ten o'clock to his house, but could not
+get him even to open the door. "To-morrow! To-morrow!" was his cry.
+Desperate, we went, although it was now almost midnight, to another
+_arriero_, who, after some dickering, agreed to leave at eight the
+following morning, charging a price something more than fifty per cent
+above the usual rate. Of course he was behindhand, but we actually set
+out at nine.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXV
+
+TZOTZILS AND TZENDALS
+
+(1901)
+
+
+We started out over the hot and dusty road, passing here and there
+through cuts of the white earth, which is used by the women of Chiapa in
+their lacquer-work. We soon reached the river, and, leaving our animals
+behind, to cool before swimming them across, embarked with a dozen other
+passengers, and all our baggage, in one of the great canoes, which we
+by no means filled. Landing on the other side, with an hour to wait, we
+walked down stream, and took a fine bath in the fresh cold, clear, deep
+water. Just below where we were bathing, some indians had exploded a
+dynamite cartridge, killing a quantity of fish, and the surface was
+immediately spotted with their white, upturned bellies. A canoe-load of
+four men put out to gather the fish, as soon as the shot was fired. Just
+as they reached the spot, and were leaning over the boat to catch them,
+the canoe overturned, and all the men were floundering in the water, up
+to their necks, and the canoe was rapidly drifting down the stream. The
+fish they get here are quite large, and seem to be a kind of cat-fish.
+Strolling back to our landing-place, we were interested in the lively
+scenes there being enacted. Under little arbors of leafy boughs, women
+were washing clothing; crowds of children, of both sexes, were playing
+on the sand or splashing in the water; half-a-dozen great canoes were
+dragged up on the bank, and amid these a group of little brown fellows,
+from ten to fourteen years of age, were swimming; here and there, a man
+or woman squatted in the shallow water, dipped water over their bare
+bodies with _jicaras_. Now and then the great ferry-boat, loaded with
+passengers and with animals swimming alongside, made its crossing.
+Presently our seven animals were swum across, and, after a moment's
+drying, were repacked and saddled, and we were ready for our forward
+movement.
+
+[Illustration: ZOQUE COMPADRES GREETING; TUXTLA GUTIERREZ]
+
+[Illustration: OUR FERRY-BOAT; CHIAPA]
+
+Chiapa was formerly the great town of the Chiapanecs, an Indian tribe to
+whom tradition assigns past splendor, but who, to-day, are represented
+in three villages, Chiapa, Suchiapa, and Acala. They are much mixed with
+Spanish blood, and have largely forgotten their ancient language. It is,
+however, from them, that the modern state, Chiapas, received its name.
+Chiapa, itself, is a city of some size, situated on a terrace a little
+way from the river, with a ridge of hills rising behind it. The _plaza_
+is large, and in it stands a market-building. Near by is a picturesque
+old gothic fountain, built of brick. Market was almost over, but we were
+interested in seeing the quantities of pineapples and cacao beans there
+offered. To lose no time waiting for dinner, we bought bread and one or
+two large pineapples, which we ate under the shade of the trees in the
+_plaza_. The pineapples were delicious, being tender and exceedingly
+sweet; our _arriero_ refused to eat any of them, asserting that they
+were barely fit to eat, lacking sweetness, and being prickly to the
+taste. The pineapples of Simojovel were to his liking; they are
+sugar-sweet, leaving no prickly sensation, and anyone can eat three
+whole ones at a sitting. After luncheon, we looked about for examples of
+lacquer-work. In one house, we found some small objects and wooden trays
+of indifferent workmanship. An old crone, badly affected with _pinto_,
+the mother of the young woman artist, showed us the wares. With her was
+the older sister of the lady-worker, who, after we had bought two of
+the trays, asked whence we came. Upon our telling her that Manuel was a
+native of Cordoba, and that I had come from the United States, without a
+word of warning she raised her hands, turned her eyes upward, and gave
+vent to a torrent of shrill, impassioned, apostrophe to her absent,
+artistic sister: "_A dios, hermana mia_, Anastasia Torres, to think that
+your art-products should penetrate to those distant lands, to those
+remote portions of the world, to be the wonder and admiration of foreign
+eyes. _A dios, hermana mia_, Anastasia Torres!" This she repeated
+several times, in a voice high enough to be heard a block or two away.
+Leaving her to continue her exclamations of joy and admiration over the
+fate of her sister's workmanship, we returned to the _plaza_, where,
+in a house near by, we found a considerable stock of better work,
+consisting of decorated bowls, cups, toy _jicaras_, gourd-rattles, etc.
+This brilliant work, characteristic of the town, is carried hundreds
+of miles into the States of Oaxaca, Tabasco, Vera Cruz, and into the
+Republic of Guatemala. At two o'clock we hurried from the town in the
+midst of terrific heat. As we rode out, over the dry and sandy road, we
+were impressed by the display of death; not only was there one cemetery,
+with its whitened walls and monuments, but at least three other burial
+places capped the little hillocks at the border of the town. One,
+particularly attracted attention, as it resembled an ancient terraced
+pyramid, with a flight of steps up one side.
+
+From the foothills, we struck up the flank of the great mountain mass
+itself. Mounting higher and higher, a great panorama presented itself
+behind and below us, including the Chiapa valley, with the hills beyond
+it. It was, however, merely extensive, and not particularly beautiful
+or picturesque. As we followed the slope towards the crest, into the
+narrowing valley, the scene became bolder, until we were at the very
+edge of a mighty chasm, which yawned sheer at our side. Following it, we
+saw the gorge suddenly shallow hundreds of feet by a vast precipice of
+limestone rock rising from its bottom. Having passed this, we journeyed
+on up the canon, lessened in grandeur, but still presenting pretty bits
+of scenery. Up to this point, limestone had prevailed, but from here on,
+we passed over various formations--heavy beds of sand or clay, lying
+upon conglomerates and shales. The road wound astonishingly, and at one
+point, coming out upon a hog's-back ridge, we found that we had actually
+made a loop, and stood directly above where we had been some time
+before. Near sunset, we reached the summit, and looked down upon the
+little town of Ixtapa, upon a high _llano_ below, and seeming to be a
+half-hour's ride distant. Descending on to the _llano_, we found it
+intersected by deep and narrow gorges; following along the level, narrow
+ridge, surrounded by ravines on every side, except the one from which we
+had approached, we presently descended, along its flank, the bank of the
+deepest of these _barrancas_. The sun had set long before we reached
+the bottom, and through the darkness, we had to climb up over the steep
+dugway in the sandy clay to the village, which we reached at seven. The
+little room supplied us for a sleeping-place was clean and neat, the
+floor was strewn with fresh and fragrant pine-needles, and the wooden
+beds were supplied with _petates_. Leaving before eight, the following
+morning, we travelled through a beautiful canon, with an abundant stream
+of whitish-blue water, tumbling in fine cascades among the rocks, and
+dashing now and then into deep pools of inky blackness. Having passed
+through it, our bridle-trail plunged abruptly downward. From it, we
+looked upon a neighboring slope, cut at three different levels, one
+above the other, for the cart-road. Passing next through a small canon
+of little beauty, but where the air was heavy with an odor like vanilla,
+coming from sheets of pale-purple or violet flowers, on trees of eight
+or ten feet in height, we reached San Sebastian, where we found our
+_carretero_, whom we supposed to have reached San Cristobal the day
+before. Rating him soundly, and threatening dire consequences from his
+delay, we resumed our journey. We were also worried over our _mozo_,
+who started from Chiapa at noon, the day before, with our photographic
+instruments, and whom we had not seen since, although there were several
+places where we would gladly have taken views. From here, for a long
+distance, the road was a hard, steep climb, over limestone in great
+variety--solid limestone, tufaceous stuff, concretionary coatings, satin
+spar, and calcite crystals. Having passed a small pueblo, or large
+_finca_, lying in a little plain below us, we looked down upon
+Zinacantan. The descent was quickly made, and passing through the
+village, without stopping, we made a long, slow, ascent before catching
+sight of our destination, San Cristobal. It made a fine appearance,
+lying on a little terrace at the base of hills, at the very end of the
+valley. Its churches and public buildings are so situated as to make
+the most impression; on account of its length and narrowness, the town
+appears much larger than it really is. We entered at one end, and then,
+practically, paralleled our trail through it to the centre, where we
+stopped at the Hotel Progreso, at 3:30 in the afternoon. We went to the
+palace, and made arrangements so promptly that we could have begun work
+immediately, if the _carretero_ and _mozo_ had not been behind. As it
+was, we waited until next day, and were warned by the _secretario_ at
+the _jefatura_ that there would not be enough light for work before nine
+o'clock. In the evening, we called on Padre Sanchez, well known for his
+study of the native languages, and the works he had written regarding
+them. He is a large man, well-built, of attractive appearance, and of
+genial manner. He has been _cura_ in various indian towns among the
+Chamulas, and he loves the indians, and is regarded as a friend by them.
+We were prepared for a cold night, and had it, though no heavy frost
+formed, as had done the night before. In one day's journey, the
+traveller finds towns, in this neighborhood, with totally different
+climates. Here woolen garments are necessary, and in towns like Chamula
+and Cancuc the indians find the heaviest ones comfortable. Our rating of
+the _carretero_ had an effect both prompt and dire; when we left him,
+he hastened to hire carriers to bring in the more important part of our
+load; these, he insisted, should travel all night, and at eight o'clock
+we found them at the hotel. In the darkness they had stumbled, and our
+loads had fallen. Whole boxes of unused plates were wrecked, and, still
+worse, many of our choicest negatives were broken. At nine o'clock the
+missing _mozo_ appeared with the instruments; it is customary for our
+carrier to keep up with the company, as we have frequent need of taking
+views upon the journey; this was almost the only instance, in the
+hundreds of leagues that we have travelled on horseback, over mountain
+roads, where our carrier had failed to keep alongside of the animals, or
+make the same time in journeying that we mounted travellers did.
+
+[Illustration: THE JAIL; SAN CRISTOBAL]
+
+[Illustration: TZOTZIL MUSICIANS IN SAN CRISTOBAL JAIL]
+
+Though there had been an early mist, there was no lack of sunshine, even
+before seven. Still, we did not go to the palace until nine o'clock, the
+hour set. San Cristobal was formerly the capital of the state, and its
+public buildings are more pretentious than usual in _cabeceras_. The
+place in which we did our work was a building of two stories, filling
+one side of the plaza. We worked in the broad corridor of the second
+story, outside of the _secretario's_ office, from which our subjects,
+mostly indians who had come to pay school-taxes, were sent to us for
+measurement. The market-place of San Cristobal is characteristically
+indian. Not only do the two chief tribes which frequent it--Tzotzils and
+Tzendals--differ in dress, but even the different villages of each wear
+characteristic garments. The Tzotzil of Chamula differs from his brother
+of Huixtan and San Bartolome; the Tzendal women of Tenejapa, Cancuc and
+San Andres may be quickly recognized by difference in dress.
+
+Most interesting are the Tzotzils of Chamula. Though looked upon by the
+_mestizos_ of San Cristobal as mere brutes and savages, they are notably
+industrious. They weave heavy, woolen blankets and _chamaras_; they
+are skilled carpenters, making plain furniture of every kind; they are
+musicians, and manufacture quantities of harps, guitars, and
+violins; they braid straw, and make hats of palm; they are excellent
+leather-dressers, and give a black stain and polish to heavy leather,
+which is unequalled by the work of their white neighbors. Men wear lower
+garments of cotton, and heavy black woolen over-garments, which are
+gathered at the waist with woolen girdles. They wear broad-brimmed,
+low-crowned hats, of their own braiding, which they adorn with long,
+streaming, red and green ribbons. Their sandals are supplied with
+heel-guards of black leather, the height of which indicates the wealth
+or consequence of the wearer. These indians of Chamula have a love of
+liberty and desire for independence. The most serious outbreak of recent
+times was theirs in 1868, when, under the influence of the young woman,
+Checheb, they attempted to restore the native government, the indian
+life, and the old-time religion. Temples were erected to the ancient
+gods, whose inspired priestess the young woman claimed to be; but three
+hundred years of Christianity had accustomed them to the idea of a
+Christ crucified; an indian Christ was necessary, not one from the hated
+invading race; accordingly, a little indian lad, the nephew of the
+priestess, was crucified, to become a saviour for their race. Their
+plans involved the killing of every white and _mestizo_ in all the
+country; in reality, more than one hundred men, women, and children,
+in the _fincas_ and little towns, were killed; San Cristobal, then the
+capital city, suffered a veritable panic, and it took the entire force
+of the whole state to restore order.
+
+[Illustration: TZOTZILS; HUIXTAN]
+
+[Illustration: TZOTZIL WOMAN; CHAMULA]
+
+The Tzendals of Tenejapa are picturesque in the extreme. Their dark
+skin, their long black hair, completely covering and concealing the
+ears, their coarse features, and the black and white striped _chamaras_
+of wool--which they buy from the weavers of Chamula--form a striking
+combination. They do but little weaving, their chief industry being the
+raising and selling of fruits. Most of the men carry a little sack,
+netted from strong fibre, slung at one side. Among other trifling
+possessions in it, is generally a little gourd filled with a green
+powder, which they call _mai_, or _pelico_. It consists chiefly of
+tobacco, with a mixture of lime and chili, and is chewed, no doubt, for
+stimulating properties--to remove the weariness of the road, and "to
+strengthen the teeth," as some say.
+
+When we had exhausted the stock of those who came to pay their taxes,
+it was suggested that we would find good subjects in the jail. This
+occupied what was once a fine old convent, built around a large
+open court, and connected with the church, which, judging from its
+elaborately carved facade, must have been beautiful. On presenting our
+credentials to the officials, an order was given, and all the pure-blood
+indians, one hundred at least, were lined up before us for inspection.
+There were Tzotzils from Chamula, and Tzendals from Tenejapa, and among
+them many excellent faces, showing the pure types, finely developed.
+Having made our inspection, and indicated those whom we should use, we
+looked about the prison. The prisoners were housed in the old rooms of
+the monastery, each of which was large enough for six or eight persons.
+In these rooms, each prisoner had his personal possessions--good
+clothing, tools, cherished articles, instruments of music. Those who
+cared to do so, were permitted to work at such things as they could do,
+and the product of their labor was sold for their benefit. Some braided
+palm into long strips, to make up into hats; others plaited straw into
+elaborate, decorative cords or bands for hats; some wove _pita_ into
+pouches; some dressed leather. Almost all were busily employed. Freedom
+of conversation and visiting was permitted, and there was no particular
+hardship in the matter of imprisonment, except the inability to go
+outside. We were impressed with the fact that, in appearance and manner,
+few, if any, of these indian prisoners, particularly the Chamulas,
+showed any signs of criminal tendencies. In fact, they were as clean,
+as frank, as docile, as intelligent, as any persons we might find in
+Mexico. A little curious to know the charges on which they had been
+committed, we inquired, and discovered that some had fifteen or twenty
+points against them, among which were such trifling charges as murder,
+manslaughter, arson, rape, and highway robbery. We thought best not to
+inquire too closely, but it is doubtful, whether any of the subjects
+here incarcerated under these long and dreadful lists of charges, are
+guilty of anything except insurrection--a final struggle for freedom.
+
+[Illustration: POSITION OF REST; TZENDALS, TENEJAPA]
+
+[Illustration: TZOTZILS FROM HUIXTAN]
+
+There were various signs of the approach of Holy Week, and the landlady
+at our hotel, and her various helpers, were busy manufacturing incense
+for that occasion. This was made in sticks, as thick as the thumb, and
+six or eight inches in length, of a black color. Besides copal, leaves
+and other materials from various kinds of odorous plants were employed
+in its fabrication; the incense thus made is really fragrant, and it
+would be interesting to know whether it is, in part at least, of indian
+origin. In three days we had completed our examination of the men, but
+not a woman had been produced for examination. On the fourth day, we
+reiterated our demands to the authorities, and Don Murcio, the janitor
+or messenger, who had been put subject to our order, was almost frantic.
+He declared that to secure the women we needed would tax every power of
+the government; that they refused to come; that his mere appearance in
+the market caused a scattering. Finally, we told him, that if he would
+provide twenty-five Chamula women, we would get the Tzendals in their
+villages, as we passed through them. Encouraged, by having one-half of
+our demand abated, he made another visit to the market. Soon we heard
+excited voices, and a moment later Don Murcio came rushing up the stairs
+with both arms filled with black _chamaras_. It is the custom of the
+indian women, when they come to market, and settle down with wares to
+sell, to fold their heavier garments and lay them on the ground beside
+them. Don Murcio had gathered up the first of these he came to, and fled
+with them to the government palace, while the crowd of angry women,
+chasing along behind, expressed their feelings vigorously. Putting the
+garments out of reach, the women were told by the officials, that each
+would receive back her property as soon as the strangers made their
+desired measurements. While we were dealing with the first cluster, Don
+Murcio sallied forth, and returned once more with garments and women. In
+this way, the work proceeded, until the final lot were in our hands.
+Not to unnecessarily increase their terrors, we had refrained from
+photographing, until the final company had been secured. We had told the
+officials of our plan, and as these later ones were measured, they were
+told that they must wait for their garments until the last one was
+measured, and until the gentleman had done some other work. When all had
+been measured, it was explained to the six of seven in the group, that
+they were to go down into the _patio_, where a picture would be taken of
+the company. That they might be properly prepared for the picture, their
+garments were returned. Suspecting no treachery, Don Murcio led the
+way, and one of two police officers accompanied the forward part of the
+procession, while Louis brought up the rear, in expectation of making
+the portrait. All went well until the first two or three had entered the
+_patio_, when the rest suddenly balked, and started to run out onto the
+street. Hearing the confusion, I started down and caught one of the
+women as she neared the doorway, while Louis held another, and each of
+the police officers, and Don Murcio, seized a prisoner. So violent,
+however, were the struggles, and so loud the outcries of the woman whom
+I held, that I released her, which was the unintended signal for each of
+the other guards to do the same, and our group vanished and all thought
+of gathering a second was given up in desperation.
+
+[Illustration: TZOTZIL BROTHERS; CHAMULA]
+
+[Illustration: TZENDAL FATHER AND SON; TENEJAPA]
+
+The morning had thus passed; animals for the further journey had been
+ordered for ten o'clock, and were really ready a little before three.
+For once, however, _we_ were not prepared. It was our custom to pack the
+busts in petroleum boxes; these boxes, each holding a five-gallon can of
+oil, are of just the size to take a single bust, and they are so thin
+and light, yet at the same time, so well constructed, that they served
+our purpose admirably. In small indian towns, they are frequently
+unobtainable, but in the places where _mestizos_ live, it had been
+always easy to procure them, at prices varying from ten to twenty-five
+cents each. In a town the size of San Cristobal, it should be easy to
+get them; to our surprise, we found that they had been in such demand,
+for carrying purposes by public workmen, that the supply was small and
+the price outrageous. We had left the securing of the boxes and the
+packing of the busts to our plaster-worker, and, though we knew he had
+had difficulty, imagined that he had secured all needed, and that the
+busts would be all ready. Diligent search, however, had secured but two
+boxes, and ridiculous prices had been demanded for those. All of us took
+to the streets, visiting stores and private houses, and at last five
+boxes were secured, though they were a dilapidated lot, with bad covers.
+For these we paid an average of sixty-two cents each. Realizing the time
+and labor necessary for securing boxes, stuff for packing, and for the
+work of putting up the busts, we dismissed our horsemen, and arranged
+for leaving the next morning. In fact, night had fallen before our work
+was done. Leaving a little before eight, we had a magnificent mountain
+ride. For a league or more, we rose steadily over a cart-road; keeping
+at a high altitude, and, with but little of ups and downs, we journeyed
+through fine pine forests, with oaks mingled, here and there, among the
+pines. We met quantities of Chamula and Tenejapa indians on their way to
+market. The Chamulas carried chairs, loads of well-tanned skins, and
+sacks full of little, round wooden boxes, well and neatly made, while
+the Tenejapes were loaded with nets of oranges, _limas_, and
+_ahuacates_. We were sorry to leave the village of Chamula to one side,
+but lack of time forbade our visiting it. It was amusing to note the
+terror of our _arriero_ on the road. Until we passed Cancuc, he was
+constantly expecting attack from the dreadful indians of Chamula,
+Tenejapa, and Cancuc, telling us that such attacks might be expected at
+any time, but particularly in the early morning and in the dusk of
+evening. What indians we met were most gentle, and answered our
+salutations with apparent kindness. After a long journey on the high,
+smooth road, we finally began descending into a pretty valley, and soon
+saw the great town of Tenejapa, below us, on a space almost as level as
+a floor, neatly laid out, and still decked with the arches erected for a
+recent fiesta. The _agente_ of the town had been warned of our coming,
+by telephone from the _jefatura_, and received us warmly, a little
+before one o'clock, giving us a large and comfortable room in the
+municipal building, supplied with chairs and benches, and a table,
+though without beds or mats. We were here delayed by the slowness of the
+old man, who had been furnished at San Cristobal for carrying our
+instruments. By three o'clock, all was ready, and the twenty-five women
+were summoned. They gave no kind of trouble, and by six o'clock the work
+was done. Women here braid their hair in two braids, which are wrapped
+about closely with cords, making them look like red ropes; these are
+then wound around the head and picturesquely fastened. The _huipils_ of
+cotton are short, and decorated with scattered designs, worked in color,
+and loosely arranged in transverse bands. Belts are of wool, red in
+color, and broad, but not long. Over their shoulders the women wear,
+particularly in cool weather, a red and blue striped cotton shawl or
+wrap. The red worn--whether in belts, wraps, or hair-strings--is all of
+one shade, a dull crimson-red. As night fell, dozens of little bonfires
+were lighted in the plaza, made from cobwork piles of fat-pine. People
+were already gathering from other pueblos for market, and many of them
+slept through the night in the open market-place. The band played a
+mournful piece, repeatedly, during the evening, and some rockets were
+fired--no doubt, the tailing-off of the late fiesta.
+
+[Illustration: CLOSE OF MARKET, TENEJAPA]
+
+Market had begun in the morning, as we prepared to leave, but the
+great plaza was not more than half-full, and there was little that was
+characteristic. Noteworthy, however, were the great loaves of salt made
+at Ixtapa; about the size of old-fashioned sugar-loaves, they were
+shaped in rush-mats, and showed the marks of the matting on their
+surface; saws were used to cut off pieces for purchasers. The _agente_
+said that it was not good, being mixed with earth or sand. He, himself,
+came from the neighborhood of Tapachula, where quantities of salt are
+made from the lagoon water. The salt-water and the salt-soaked earth
+from the bottom of the lagoon are put into vats and leached, and the
+resulting saline is boiled in ovens, each of which contains an _olla_.
+The industry is conducted by _ladinos_, as well as indians, but the salt
+is poor.
+
+It was 8:45 when we started, and almost immediately we began a hard
+climb over limestone, giving a severe test to our poor animals. At the
+summit we found a group of indian carriers, who, as usual, stopped
+at the pass to rest and look upon the landscape. The view was really
+beautiful, the little town lying in a curious, level valley, which was
+encircled by an abrupt slope, and which had been excavated from an
+almost level plateau. For some time, we followed this high level, but
+finally plunged down into a deep gully, where our road passed away
+to the left in a dry gorge, while to the right, the valley deepened
+abruptly by a great vertical wall. When we reached the point of sudden
+deepening, in the gorge below, we saw water, bursting in volume from the
+cliff's base. Dismounting from our horses, and climbing down, we found
+a magnificent arch of limestone over the emerging stream, the water of
+which was fresh and cold, and clear as crystal. The shallow portion of
+the valley marks the ancient level of the stream. In some past time, the
+stream had sunk, cutting a subterranean channel under its old bed, which
+was left high and dry. The deep part of the valley may be due to the
+falling of the roof of rock above the subterranean stream. Following up
+the ancient valley, we presently turned into one of its old tributary
+gorges, coming out into a country well-wooded with pines and oaks. The
+whole country hereabouts is composed of monoclines, all the crests
+presenting one long, gentle slope, with rocks dipping with the slope,
+and one abrupt short slope, cutting the strata. The roads, for the most
+part, follow along the edge of these monoclines, making them unusually
+long, though easy. The rocks over which we passed were an olive
+shaly-sandstone, with notable concentric weathering, limestone, and here
+and there, red sandstone, abundantly green-spotted. Indians, everywhere,
+were burning over fields, preparatory to planting, while the day was
+clear, the smoke rose in clouds, and at many places we suffered from
+these field fires. Twice we passed a point just as the flames leaped
+from one side of the road to the other, and rode between two lines of
+blaze. The fire, burning green branches and stalks, caused thousands of
+loud explosions, like the rattle of musketry.
+
+Long before we were near it, we caught sight of Cancuc, the beautiful,
+perched upon its lofty crest. In San Cristobal, our journey had
+been matter of conversation among the _mestizos_ and many and dire
+predictions had been made. "Ah, yes, it is easy for these gentlemen to
+do this work here in the _cabecera_, but let them get to Tenejapa, and
+Cancuc--there it will be another matter; they will be killed upon the
+journey; if they reach Cancuc, they will never leave the town alive."
+The town is built on the edge of a ridge, which drops in both
+directions, leaving barely room for the placing of houses. From it, we
+looked out in every direction over a magnificent landscape. Cancuc is
+famous for the insurrection of 1712. Curiously, like the outbreak at
+Chamula in 1868, it was due to the visions and religious influence of a
+girl. Maria Candaleria was the centre and impulse of the whole movement.
+Dr. Brinton has thrown the incident, which abounded in picturesque
+details, and which caused the Spanish government great difficulty, into
+a little drama, which bears the name of the inspired priestess.
+
+[Illustration: TZENDAL MAN AND WIFE; TENEJAPA]
+
+[Illustration: TZENDALS; TENEJAPA]
+
+We were now within the district of my friend Valencia. Two years ago,
+when we passed through the country of the Mixes, he was the _jefe
+politico_ of the District of Yautepec; he had been transferred to this
+state and this district, with his _cabecera_ at Ocosingo. That town lay
+far from our course, and we had written Senor Valencia, that we planned
+to pass through his district, but had not time to visit the _cabecera_.
+We named the towns through which we planned to pass, and begged him to
+send orders directly to the local authorities, instead of trying to
+communicate with us. This he had done promptly, and during our stay in
+his district, everything was done for us without delay. The _agente_
+at Cancuc is a new official, but a man of sense, and sympathy for the
+indians, among whom he lives. We arrived at half-past three and had our
+_mozo_ been on time, might have done some work. The _agente_ showed
+us the historic picture in the old church; it is the portrait of a
+clergyman, whose influence did much to quell the insurrection in 1713.
+More interesting to us than the old picture, were groups of indians,
+kneeling and praying. When they knelt, they touched their foreheads and
+faces to the ground, which they saluted with a kiss. Having assumed
+the attitude of prayer, they were oblivious to all around them, and,
+curiously, their prayers were in the native language. The town-house was
+placed at the disposition of our party, but the _agente's_ bed, in his
+own house, was given to me. As I sat writing at the table in his room,
+the whole town government--a dozen or so in number--stalked in. Most of
+them wore the heavy black _chamaras_ made by the Chamula indians. These
+were so long that they almost swept the ground. The faces of the men
+were dark and wild, and their hair hung in great black shocks down upon
+their shoulders and backs. In their hands they held their long official
+staves. Advancing to the table where I sat, in the order of their rank,
+they saluted me, kissing my hand; arranging themselves in a half-circle
+before my table, the _presidente_ placed before me a bowl filled with
+eggs, each wrapped in corn-husks, while the first _alcalde_ deposited a
+cloth filled with a high pile of hot _tortillas_; a speech was made in
+Tzendal, which was translated by the second official, in which they told
+me that they appreciated our visit; it gave them pleasure that such
+important persons should come from such a distance to investigate the
+life and manners of their humble town; they trusted that our errand
+might be entirely to our wishes, and that, in leaving, we might bear
+with us a pleasant memory. They begged us to accept the poor presents
+they had brought, while they assured us that, in them, we had our
+thousand most obedient servants. And this in Cancuc--the town where
+we were to have met our death! At night, the fires on a hundred hills
+around us made a magnificent display, forming all sorts of fantastic
+combinations and outlines. In the evening, the son of the _agente_, who
+had been to Tenango with a friend, came home in great excitement. He was
+a lively young fellow of eighteen years. At the river-crossing, where
+they arrived at five in the evening, a black cow, standing in the river,
+scared their horses so that they could not make them cross; the boy
+emptied his revolver at the animal, but with no effect; it was clearly
+a _vaca bruja_--witch cow; an hour and a half was lost before they
+succeeded in getting their horses past with a rush.
+
+[Illustration: THE TOWN GOVERNMENT; CANCUC]
+
+The morning was spent in making pictures. While still in Yucatan, we
+heard about the music of Cancuc, and among our views was one of the
+musicians. These are three in number, and they head processions at
+fiestas; the drum, like that we saw at Tuxtla, is cylindrical, with two
+heads; the _pito_ is the usual reed whistle; the _tortuga_, a large
+turtle-shell, was brought from Palenque; it is hung by a belt to the
+player, and is beaten on the lower side with two leg-bones of a deer.
+The Cancuc dress is simple. Men wear the breech-clout, and, when they
+carry burdens, little else; at other times, they wear short, cotton
+trousers which hardly reach the knees. The chief garment is a _camisa_,
+of native cotton, with a colored stitching at the neck and along the
+seam where the two edges join; this _camisa_ is of such length that,
+when girded, it hangs just to, or a little below, the lower edge of the
+trouser leg. The belts are home-woven, but are made of cotton which is
+bought already dyed a brilliant red or yellow. Women wear woolen belts
+made by Chamulas; their _enaguas_ are plain, dull blue in color; their
+_huipils_ are a dirty white, with a minimum of colored stitching. The
+chief industry at Cancuc is raising pigs for market.
+
+At 1:15 we started from the town, and rode down the crest of long,
+gently-sloping ridges, which seemed interminable. The rock over which we
+passed was red sandstone, mottled and streaked with green, red shale,
+and occasional patches of conglomerate. Crossing a little stream by a
+pretty bridge, we made an abrupt ascent, and soon saw the little town,
+Cuaquitepec, at the base of the opposite hill.
+
+We met many indians carrying great ovoidal jars which were made at
+Tenango, and which are chiefly used for carrying _chicha_. This is a
+fermented drink, made from the sap of sugar-cane, and is much used
+throughout this state and the adjoining parts of Central America. We
+inquired of a girl who carried such a vessel, what she had, and asked
+to try it. She gave us a sip in a wee gourd-vessel, holding less than a
+wine-glass. Knowing nothing of the price of _chicha_, we gave her six
+centavos, with which she seemed well satisfied. A little later, deciding
+to test the drink again, we stopped a man, who had a vessel of it, and
+again were given the little cup. On stating that we wished a centavo's
+worth, we were much surprised to have him fill a great _jicara_ for
+the price mentioned. It seems the little vessel is carried only for
+sampling, and that a sale is made only after the purchaser has approved
+the quality.
+
+Reaching Cuaquitepec at five, we rode up to the town-house, that the
+authorities might know that we had passed. The place is small and
+dwindling; there are relatively many _ladinos_, and few indians. They
+were expecting us, and seemed disappointed at our refusal to stop.
+The shell of the old church, almost ready to fall, suggested past
+magnificence. The little modern structure, at its side, is suited to the
+present needs. We were vexed at the wanton sacrifice of a great
+tree, which had stood near the town-house, but whose giant trunk was
+prostrate, and stripped of its branches. A man on foot showed us the
+road beyond the town, and it was moonlight before we reached Citala,
+where we planned to sleep. Of the town itself, we know nothing. The old
+church is decaying, but in its best days must have been magnificent. The
+_presidente_ was absent, but his wife, an active, bustling intelligent
+_ladino_, expected us, and did everything possible for our comfort.
+Eggs, beans, _tortillas_ and coffee made up the supper. A room,
+containing a bed for me, and _petates_ on the floor for my companions,
+was waiting. When a light was struck more than a dozen great cockroaches
+were seen running over the wall, none of them less than two inches and a
+half in length, and of the most brilliant orange and dark brown. In the
+morning, a fine chicken breakfast was promptly ready, and the woman had
+summoned a _cargador_ to be ready for our starting. She said that in
+this town there is a considerable indian population, and that these
+Tzendals are tall and strongly-built, in comparison with those of
+Cuaquitepec, and other neighboring towns. She regretted that we could
+not wait until her husband came, as she had sent him word of our
+arrival, and was expecting him. We assured her that she had done
+everything which he could possibly have done, had he been present, and
+that we should, with pleasure, report our satisfaction to the _jefe_.
+
+[Illustration: INDIAN CARRIERS RESTING]
+
+[Illustration: DRIVING PIGS, NEAR CANCUC]
+
+The _cargador_ whom she supplied, was a comfort, after the wretched
+sluggards whom we had lately had. With our instruments upon his
+shoulders, he trotted, like a faithful dog, directly at our side, from
+start to finish, never showing the least weariness or sense of burden.
+Both foot _mozos_ and _arrieros_ through this district carry a mass of
+_posole_ with them on a journey. Unlike that which Eustasio and his
+Zapotec companions carried, the mass here is pure corn, white and moist,
+being kept wrapped in fresh banana leaves; at every brook-side, a
+_jicara_ of fresh water is dipped, and a handful of _posole_ is squeezed
+up in it till thoroughly mixed, when it is drunk. It tastes a little
+sour, and is refreshing. At 11:15, we passed the bridge over the stream
+on which Chilon is built, and a moment later drew up at the town-house.
+Here we regretted that our serious work with the Tzendals was done.
+We were received royally, and told that our house was ready. This was
+really so, a pretty little house of three good rooms having been cleaned
+and prepared for our use. We lay down and napped until the good dinner,
+which had been started when we had first been seen upon the road, and
+some time before we reached the village, was ready. Sitting on the porch
+of our little house, and looking out over bushes, full of roses, in the
+garden before us, we rested until the greatest heat of the day was past,
+when we started, and pushed on over the three leagues that lay between
+us and Yajalon, where we arrived at near sunset. The town is large, and,
+in great part, indian. The women dressed more gaily than in any other
+Tzendal town which we have seen; their _huipils_ were decorated with a
+mass of bright designs, worked in colored wools or silk. Here we saw our
+first Chol, a carrier, passing through the village with his load; in
+order to make a start upon our final tribe, we had him halted, to take
+his measurements and picture. At this town, we stopped at a sort of
+boarding-house, or traveller's-rest, close by the town-house, kept by
+a widow with several children. We impressed upon this good woman the
+necessity of having breakfast without fail at five o'clock, as we wished
+to make an early start, stopping at Hidalgo for work during the hotter
+portion of the day, and pressing on to Tumbala at night. The poor
+creature kept me awake all night, making her preparations for the meal,
+which was to be a masterpiece of culinary art, and at four o'clock
+routed us all out with the report that breakfast was waiting on the
+table. It was a turkey-breakfast, too.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXVI
+
+CHOLS
+
+(1901)
+
+
+Of course, after such a start, we were delayed in getting the animals
+ready for the journey, and the sun had been up full half an hour when we
+left. It was a short ride to Hidalgo, which lies prettily in a small,
+flat valley, on a good-sized stream. We were doubtful about our
+reception, for Yajalon was the last town in Valencia's district, and we
+had no documents to present to the town officials, until we should reach
+El Salto, the _cabecera_, except our general letter from Governor
+Lopez. It is true that the _presidente_ of Yajalon, at our request, had
+telephoned Hidalgo that we came highly recommended, and that everything
+possible must be done for our assistance. The _agente_ was an old man,
+suffering from headache, who showed but listless interest in our work.
+In a general way, he gave us his endorsement, and we, therefore, took
+the management into our own hands. He had kept the people in town,
+so that we had subjects, though fewer than we had hoped. We measured
+twenty-seven men, and there were really no more in the town, the rest
+being away on _fincas_. The men gave us no trouble, but the women were
+another matter. Several times we issued orders that they be brought to
+the town-house for measurement, and each time, after an effort to obey
+our orders, we were told that they would not come. "Very good," said I,
+"if they will not come, it is plain that we must go and measure them in
+their houses." Accompanied by the town government, we started on our
+rounds. The first house was tightly closed, and no reply was made to our
+demands for entrance. The second was the same; one might imagine that
+it had been deserted for weeks. At the third, the door was opened, and
+within, an aged woman, ugly, bent, decrepit. Here we measured. The next
+house, and the next, and the next, were shut. And then another open
+house contained another veritable hag. Passing several other houses,
+tightly closed, we found a third old woman, and I saw that we were
+destined to secure nothing but decrepit hags, as representatives of
+the fair sex. At the next closed house, I stopped, and turning to an
+official, who spoke Spanish, said, "I am tired of these closed houses;
+who owns this house?" His name was given, and I wrote it down. "Very
+well," said I, "I shall recommend to the _jefe_ of the district, when I
+reach El Salto, that he be made to pay a fine of five pesos." At this,
+the town officials gasped, but we walked to the next house, which was
+also closed. "Who owns this house?" And down went a second name. By
+the time I had three names of owners of closed houses on my paper, the
+officials held a hasty whispered consultation; then coming to me,
+they begged me to excuse them for a moment, as the _secretario_ would
+accompany me upon my round, and they would soon rejoin us. With this,
+they disappeared, and we entered another old woman's house. When we
+emerged, a wonderful change had taken place; every house in the village
+had its door wide open, and in the doorway were to be seen anywhere from
+one to three or four ladies of all ages. From this time on, there was no
+lack of women, and the twenty-five were promptly measured.
+
+We had picked out our subjects for modeling before we started on our
+rounds to measure women; and had left Ramon in charge of that part of
+our work, staying only long enough to see him make the mould of the
+first subject. This was an indian, named Juan, the first _alcalde_ of
+the village. We had carefully explained the operation to our subjects;
+we had described in detail the sensations and emotions connected with
+the thing, and thought we had the subjects well prepared. When Juan
+began, he seemed to have good courage, but we told a young fellow, who
+sat near and understood Spanish, that he should tell the man certain
+encouraging things which we repeated to him. The translation was
+promptly done, and we were therefore much surprised to see our subject's
+confidence gradually give way to terror. While we were applying the
+first mould, he began to sob and cry like a child; this was, however,
+nothing compared with the abject terror and sorrow which he displayed
+while we were making the face-mould. The tears flowed from his eyes; he
+sobbed, cried aloud, and we could see the thumping of his heart against
+his chest. We had never had a subject who took the matter so hardly.
+When the operation was completed, we learned the cause of all this
+trouble. Our interpreter turned out to be a joker, and, while we were
+telling him encouraging remarks, with which to soothe the subject, he
+was saying, "Now you will die; pretty soon you will not be able to
+breathe any more; you will be dead and buried before to-morrow; your
+poor widow will no doubt feel badly, but probably she will find another
+quite as good as you." We had always realized the possibility of such
+misinterpretations, but, so far as we know, this was the only time that
+our interpreter ever played us false.
+
+On our return from measuring the women, we found that Ramon had made
+no progress. The three subjects, whom we had selected and left in his
+charge, under strenuous orders, had taken fright at Juan's experience
+and fled. We lost two hours in hunting them and bringing them in; and we
+should not have succeeded then, had it not been for Juan's assistance.
+He seemed to feel that, having undergone the operation, it might ease
+his position, and decrease possible danger, if he had companions in
+misery. Finally, at 4:30, long after the hour we had set, we left for
+Tumbala. We secured six _cargadors_--one each for the four moulds,
+one for the instruments, and one for the remaining plaster,--as our
+pack-animals had long since passed. Five of them were left to follow
+at their leisure, on condition that they reach Tumbala early the next
+morning, but the sixth, a wee old man, who had helped us woman-hunting,
+went with us, by his own request, to carry the instruments. He was so
+small that we did not believe he could carry the burden, but he made no
+sort of trouble about it, trotting along most happily. We had been told
+that the road was _pura subida_--pure ascent--and so we found it. We
+were soon in the tropical forest of the Chinantla, and the land of the
+Mixes, with begonias, tree-ferns, bromelias, and orchids. Here and
+there, were bad bits of road, deep mud, slippery stones, irregular
+limestone masses. It was dark before we reached Tumbala, and although
+there was a moon, the mists were so dense that it did little good.
+Arriving at 6:45, we found the town a wretched place, with a worthless
+and nerveless _agente_. This was once the largest of the Chol towns,
+and we had thought to do the bulk of our work there. It is fortunate,
+indeed, that we stopped at Hidalgo, because Tumbala is now completely
+ruined by the contract-labor system, which has sent its men all through
+the country onto _fincas_. The _agente_ would probably have done nothing
+for us, but his little daughter, much impressed by our letter from the
+governor, took an active interest in our welfare, promised to prepare a
+dinner, and decided him to give us sleeping-quarters in a store-room
+in the building. He thawed a little after we had eaten, but spoke
+discouragingly regarding the possibility of working there. He said we
+would do well to go to El Triunfo; that it would take two days to find
+indians and bring them to the town; that there were no animals, nothing
+to eat, no conveniences in Tumbala, in all of which he probably was
+quite correct. Our _arrieros_ had contracted only to this point from San
+Cristobal. We urged them to make the further journey, and offered them
+a price much above the regular, but they wanted to be back in San
+Cristobal for Holy Week, and assured us that the roads ahead were the
+worst that could be imagined, and that they ran the risk of killing all
+their animals if they went with us.
+
+[Illustration: THE TORO; FRAME AND BEARER; EL TRIUNFO]
+
+[Illustration: PLAYING TORO; EL TRIUNFO]
+
+As we were on the road, a little before we reached Tumbala, we found a
+company of indian boys making camp for the night. Calling to us, they
+said that Don Enrique had told them if they saw us on the road, to say
+that we should keep straight on to El Triunfo, as he had a message for
+us. We had never heard of Don Enrique, and thought there was some error,
+but after supper, the _agente_ handed us a letter which had come that
+afternoon from the gentleman in question. In it we read: "Sir: Mr.
+Ellsworth, of the Rio Michol Rubber Co., Salto, asked me by telephone to
+tell you that he will be waiting for you the 4th of April in La Cruzada,
+and hopes that you will kindly accompany Mrs. Ellsworth as far as
+Mexico, and that, in case she would not find a steamer in Frontera, he
+is going to charter one. Hoping to see you here in Triunfo, and waiting
+for an answer to La Cruzada, I remain, Yours truly, H. Rau." This was
+a gleam of light amid our dark affairs. There we were, with all
+our baggage and instruments, but without carriers, deserted by our
+_arrieros_, and with no opportunity in Tumbala to secure new animals
+or helpers; it was like the voice of a friend, to receive this English
+letter from El Triunfo, and we felt that, if worst came to worst, Don
+Enrique might help us out.
+
+The room in which we slept was filled with stored stuff and two tables.
+On one of these I made my bed, while my companions spread a large
+_petate_ on the floor, and our little indian carrier put down a small
+one for himself, as he declared he should not leave us until morning. He
+had a good supper, and in a fit of generosity, presented Louis with what
+was left of his package of _posole_. With much enthusiasm, he told us of
+an "animal" which he had seen and tried to catch upon the road. From his
+description, it appeared to be an armadillo. Before he lay down on his
+_petate_, he kissed my hand, wished me a good night's rest, and asked my
+good-night blessing. He was happy in possession of a _real's_ worth of
+_aguardiente_, from which, at intervals during the night, he drank.
+Early in the morning, he opened the door, and, looking out, crossed
+himself, and repeated his morning prayer. He then came to _Tatita_
+(little father) to receive his morning's blessing, and hoped that I had
+passed a good night in slumber. He then brought me a _jicara_ of cool,
+fresh water, after which he urged me to take a sip from his dear bottle.
+Going outside a little time, he returned with two roses, heavy with dew
+and very fragrant, and gave them to me as if they were a gift for kings.
+Very soon, however, his potations got the better of him, and bidding us
+a fond farewell, he started for Hidalgo.
+
+It was my day of fever, and I spent the greater portion of the morning
+on my hard bed, getting up from time to time to try to move the _agente_
+to procure an animal, on which I might make the journey to El Triunfo.
+Finally, in despair, after difficulty in securing a foot-messenger, I
+sent a letter to Don Enrique, asking him to send an animal for my use.
+During the afternoon, a fine mule and a letter came from El Triunfo.
+"Sir: The boy brought me your letter, and I send you a good mule for
+yourself, so we shall talk all the rest when you shall get here. If you
+need more pack-mules I will send them afterwards, as soon as you tell
+me how many you need. Hoping to see you this afternoon, I remain, Yours
+very truly, Henry Rau." The road was down hill, and there were but two
+or three bad spots. I rode through tropical forests, the whole distance,
+with high trees, bound together with a mass of vines, and loaded with
+parasitic or aerial plants. Here and there, rose the largest tree-ferns
+I have ever seen. I was not in the best mood, however, for enjoying the
+journey, and the hour-and-a-quarter seemed like much more. The great
+coffee _finca_ of El Triunfo occupied an irregular valley, the slopes
+of which were covered with thousands of coffee-trees, with their
+magnificent dark green leaves and sweet-scented, white flowers. Three
+hundred and fifty thousand trees made up the plantation, which was one
+of two owned and managed by Senor Rau. The house was large, and rather
+pretentious, two stories in height, with buildings for cleaning, packing
+and storing coffee on the same terrace, and with a veritable village of
+houses for the indian workmen down below. I received a warm reception
+from the Senor and his household, who have established here a veritable
+bit of Germany in tropical America. Not only was I myself cared for, but
+I was urged to make no haste in going further, as no steamer would go
+from La Cruzada before the 4th, and it would be easy to reach that
+place in twenty-four hours. So, for several days the hospitable
+plantation-house was my home. Great lines of mules were constantly going
+from here, through to El Salto and La Cruzada, with loads of coffee,
+and coming back with provisions, and the many supplies necessary for an
+establishment of this importance. When the next _mulada_ should appear,
+animals would be sent to Tumbala for my companions and the luggage.
+Curiously, none came for two whole days--a very unusual occurrence--and
+the boys remained prisoners in that dreary town for all that time. For
+my own part, I was thankful to reach a place where a comfortable bed and
+certain meals were to be counted on. My fever left me, but the following
+morning I found myself suffering from swollen jaws; every tooth was
+loose and sore, and it was difficult to chew even the flesh of bananas;
+this difficulty I had lately suffered, whenever in the moist mountain
+district of Pennsylvania, and I feared that there would be no relief
+until I was permanently out of the district of forest-grown mountains.
+Nor was I mistaken, for ten days passed, and we had reached the dry
+central table-land of Mexico, before my suffering ended. One day, while
+we were on the _finca_, considerable excitement was caused by one of the
+Indians working in the field being bitten by a poisonous serpent. The
+man was brought at once to the house, and remedies were applied which
+prevented serious results, although his leg swelled badly. The serpent
+was killed, and measured about five feet in length, having much the
+general appearance of a rattlesnake, but with no rattles. Don Enrique
+says that the most dangerous snake in this district is a little creature
+more brightly colored, with a smaller head, which is less markedly flat,
+and with smaller fangs; he showed us one of these, not more than a foot
+in length, from whose bite a man on the plantation, a year before,
+had died. In telling us of this event, he gave us a suggestion of the
+working of the contract-labor system; the man who died owed one hundred
+and forty pesos of work--almost three years of labor; the _jefe_,
+indeed, had sent the son to work out the debt, but the young man soon
+ran away, and the most diligent effort to recapture him had failed.
+
+[Illustration: CHOL WOMEN; LA TRINIDAD]
+
+Perhaps two hundred persons lived as workmen on the _finca_ of El
+Triunfo. They were, of course, all indians, and were about evenly
+divided between Tzendals and Chols; it was impossible to gather them for
+measurement till Sunday, when they all came to the house and the store.
+It was a day of amusement and recreation for the laborers, a day when
+all of them--men, women, children--drank quantities of liquor. It was
+interesting to watch them as they came up to the store to make their
+little purchases for the week. All were in their best clothing, and
+family groups presented many interesting scenes. On Sundays and fiestas,
+they play _toro_--one man creeping into a framework of light canes
+covered with leather, meant to represent a bull, while others play the
+part of bull-fighters. The Chols present a well-marked type. They are
+short, broad-headed and dark-skinned; their noses are among the
+most aquiline in Mexico. Men, especially those of Tumbala, have a
+characteristic mode of cropping the hair; that on the back of the head
+is cut close, leaving the hair of the forward third of the head longer.
+The men are almost immediately recognized, wherever met, by the
+characteristic _camisa_, made of white cotton, vertically striped with
+narrow lines of pink, which is woven in the Chol towns, and does not
+appear to be used by other Indians.
+
+The doors of the hospitable home at El Triunfo are ever open, and a day
+rarely passes without some traveller seeking shelter and entertainment.
+Spaniards, Mexicans, Germans, Englishmen, Americans, all are welcome,
+and during the few days of our stay, the house was never free of other
+visitors. Among these was Stanton Morrison, famous in Yale's football
+team in '92; he now lives in this district, and has a coffee _finca_
+four hours' ride away.
+
+Finally, at 10:10 Tuesday morning, April 2d, having completed all our
+work, we started from El Triunfo for our last ride of the season. We
+could easily have gone, starting in the early morning, to El Salto
+before night; as it was, Don Enrique planned a different method. We had
+good animals, which he had loaned us, or for which he had arranged for
+us with the muleteers. At two o'clock we reached La Trinidad, where he
+had promised that we should eat the finest meal in the State of Chiapas.
+We found a complete surprise. Trinidad is little more than a _finca_,
+or _rancho_, but it has an _agente_, and quite a population of Chol
+indians. The _agente_ was a decent-looking fellow, active and ambitious;
+he talks a little English, and is something of an amateur photographer.
+His house of poles and mud presented no notable external features, but
+within, it was supplied with furniture so varied and abundant as is rare
+in any part of Mexico. Chairs, rockers, tables, cupboards, washstands,
+all were there; and beds, real beds, which for cleanness were marvels.
+As soon as we entered the house, fresh water and clean towels were
+brought. On the tables were vases of fresh-gathered flowers, in
+quantities, and beautifully arranged. The visible service for all this
+elegance, and for the meals, were two little indian girls not more than
+six or eight years old, neatly dressed, and an indian boy of the same
+size and cleanness. The invisible helpers were buxom indian girls,
+well-dressed and clean, but who never came into the room where we were,
+leaving all carrying, setting of tables, and serving, in the hands of
+these three little servants. There was, indeed, one other person in the
+household--a beautiful girl, slender and refined, whose relation to
+the master I do not know, but who was treated by him as if she were
+a veritable queen, or some lovely flower in the wilderness. Here we
+rested, ate and slept in comfort, and here, when morning came, we paid
+a bill which ordinarily would have seemed large; however, if one finds
+beautiful flowers in the wilderness, he must expect to pay. It was worth
+while paying to enjoy the best sleep, in the best bed, that one had had
+for months.
+
+[Illustration: A CHOL FAMILY; LA TRINIDAD]
+
+[Illustration: CHOLS; LA TRINIDAD]
+
+The _agente_ rode with us in the morning quite a league upon our road,
+to a place which he was clearing for a _milpa_. We had heard so much
+of the horrors of the road to El Salto, that we were prepared for the
+worst. It was not an abrupt descent, as we had expected, but for the
+most part level, over black mud. There were a few ups and downs, and
+there was one limestone hill with tree-ferns and begonias, and all that
+that implies. Much of the way we had a drizzling rain, and everywhere
+the air was hot and heavy. After four hours' riding, we stopped at ten
+to eat a breakfast which we had brought with us, and then rode through
+to El Salto, where we arrived at 12:30. This is the _cabecera_ of the
+district, and the _jefe_ could not understand why we should continue on
+our journey, as the steamer would not leave until the following day.
+Don Enrique, however, had urged us not to stop at El Salto, where he
+insisted the risk from yellow fever was great. He advised us to go on to
+La Cruzada, where he had a house and an agent, and where, he told us,
+we could arrange for sleeping and eating as comfortably, and far more
+safely, than in the town. The distance was short, but the place, in
+truth, was dreary. The landing was at the bottom of a little slope, at
+the upper edge of which stood Don Enrique's place, the store-house of
+the steamship company, the house and barnyard of the manager of the mule
+trains, and one or two unattractive huts. When we arrived, we found that
+the mayor domo had that day resigned, and left the place, going to El
+Salto; before he left, he quarreled with the cook, and she had gone off
+in high dudgeon. Two young employes, left behind, advised us to return
+to El Salto until the time of embarkation. We, however, had left El
+Salto behind us, and had our luggage with us, and were little inclined
+to retrace our steps. After some grumbling, we were supplied with beds,
+but told that the food problem was impossible. After much wheedling,
+coaxing, bribing, and threatening, a woman in one of the huts promised
+to cook something for us, and we had nothing more to do but wait, until
+the steamer should be ready. The chief excitement of the day was when
+the mule trains were driven in, towards evening. With them came a swarm
+of mosquitoes, which absolutely darkened the air. Fortunately they did
+not stay, but after an hour and a half of troubling, disappeared as
+suddenly as they arrived. The river had fallen to that degree that it
+was impossible for our steamer, the Mariscal, to come up to La Cruzada,
+and we learned that it was anchored about a league down the river. A
+flatboat, poled by indians, came up to the landing, ready to receive
+cargo and passengers, and to transfer them to the steamer. In the
+morning, the loading of the flatboat and the getting ready for
+departure, took all our thought. At ten o'clock Mr. and Mrs. Ellsworth,
+with their baby and two servants, appeared in small canoes, which had
+been poled by indians from the plantation, several hours' journey up the
+Michol River. At the last moment, Mr. Ellsworth had decided to accompany
+his party to the city. When everything was loaded, quite promptly,
+at twelve o'clock, the flatboat pushed out from its moorings. Mr.
+Ellsworth's little launch was standing at the landing, and he invited me
+to ride in it, with him and Mrs. Ellsworth and the baby, to the steamer.
+We started off right proudly in the Miriam, but, alas, pride goes before
+destruction, and we had hardly left the heavy flatboat a little behind
+us, when our machinery broke down, and we had to wait until the clumsy
+scow overtook us, when we became common passengers again, and drifted
+down the stream to the Mariscal, passing the Lumeha plantation, an
+American enterprise.
+
+[Illustration: CHOLS RESTING, LA TRINIDAD]
+
+The Mariscal itself was a little steamer, too small for the passengers
+and freight it had to carry. It had no beds nor cabin; it was dirty and
+crowded; it had not food enough to feed the first-class passengers, who
+paid twenty-five pesos each for their short journey. There was, indeed,
+no other class of passengers, only one grade of tickets being sold.
+When complaints were made of the accommodations, or lack of all
+accommodations, the _agente_, who was on the vessel with us, expressed
+surprise, and seemed profoundly hurt. The stream is full of curves and
+bends, is broad, and notably uniform in breadth; it has considerable
+current, and is bordered closely by the tropical forest, except where
+little clearings have been made for _fincas_. Formerly, caimans, or
+alligators, were common, but they have become rare, through the diligent
+hunting to which they have been subjected for supplying skins. Two days
+are usually taken in the journey to Frontera, though it is not a fifteen
+hours' run. Mr. Ellsworth arranged for our going directly through, so
+that, except one stop at a midway station, we made a continuous journey,
+and drew up at Frontera at 9:50 in the morning.
+
+It is a mean little town, but far cleaner than Coatzacoalcos. Real grass
+grows there, and the little plaza is almost a lawn. Last year, when
+yellow fever was so terrible at Coatzacoalcos, and when, even at El
+Salto, there were forty cases, there were none here. The town is hot,
+and during the two days we spent there, our chief effort was to keep
+cool. The steamer, Mexico, appeared upon the 6th, planning to leave the
+same day. A norther came, however, and rendered the bar impassable. In
+the morning, Easter Sunday, the wind had fallen somewhat. We saw the
+little celebration at the church, and, learning that the boat was likely
+to leave at noon, went aboard. At one we started. Sailing down the
+river, we soon found ourselves between the piers, and the moment of
+test had come. At the first thump of the keel upon the sand, we doubted
+whether we should pass the bar; still we kept along with steam full on
+and the bow headed seaward; nine times we struck the sandy bottom, but
+then found ourselves in deeper water, and were again upon the Gulf. The
+Mexico was just as dirty, the food was just as bad, and the crew just as
+unaccommodating, as in 1896, when we had our first experience of her.
+Rather than lie in the stuffy cabin, I took my blanket out on deck, and
+rolled up there for the night. Room was plenty, as there were only a
+score of passengers. When we woke, the boat was standing in the harbor
+of Coatzacoalcos, and we landed to eat a breakfast at the hotel. Through
+the day, we wandered about town, but were again upon the vessel at four
+o'clock. We now numbered about a hundred passengers, and everything was
+crowded. In the company was a comic theatre troupe. The day before,
+a number of the passengers had been seasick; on this occasion,
+three-fourths were suffering, and the decks were a disgusting spectacle.
+Still, fresh air was there, and again I made my bed on deck. In the
+middle of the night, having moved slightly, I felt a sharp and sudden
+pain in my right temple, exactly as if I had rolled upon a sharp, hot
+tack. I had my jacket for a pillow, and thought at first that there
+really was a tack in one of the pockets, and sought, but in vain, to
+find it. Lying down to sleep again, I presently moved my hand over the
+blanket on the deck, and suddenly, again, I felt the sharp, burning
+prick, this time in my thumb. Certain that it could not be a tack this
+time, I brought my hand down forcibly, and, rising, saw by the moonlight
+that I had killed a large, black scorpion. For two hours the stings felt
+like fire, but by morning had ceased to pain me; then I found two or
+three of the other passengers suffering from similar stings, and reached
+the conclusion that the Mexico was swarming with the creatures. At dawn,
+we sighted Vera Cruz, and were soon in the harbor, standing at anchor;
+at eight o'clock, we stood upon the wharf, and our journeys in Indian
+Mexico were ended.
+
+[Illustration: INDIAN HUT; SANTA ANITA]
+
+[Illustration: GUADALUPE; DECEMBER 12]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXVII
+
+CONCLUSION
+
+
+But it was not necessary to go to distant Oaxaca and Chiapas to find
+Mexican indians. On the border of the capital city lie Santa Anita,
+Iztacalco, Mexicalcingo, Ixtapalapa, and a quantity of other villages
+and towns, where one may still find Aztec indians of pure blood,
+sometimes speaking the old language, sometimes wearing characteristic
+dress, and maintaining, to the present, many ancient practices and
+customs. At Santa Anita, for example, one may eat _juiles_ and
+_tamales_, catch a glimpse of indian weddings, and delight his eyes with
+the fresh beauty of the _chinampas_,--wonderful spots of verdure and
+flowers--the floating gardens of the ancient Aztecs. Half an hour, or
+less, in the tram-car takes the traveller to Guadalupe, which may be
+called the heart of Indian Mexico. There, on the rock of Tepeyac, the
+Virgin appeared to Juan Diego; there, in the churches, dedicated in
+honor of that apparition, thousands of indians, from leagues around,
+gather yearly. On December 12, in the crowded streets of Guadalupe,
+groups, fantastically garbed as indians, dance in the Virgin's honor,
+and in their songs and dances, modern though they be, can be found
+suggestions of the olden time. Now and then, one may witness, what I
+saw in December, 1895--a group of indian pilgrims from a distant town,
+singing and dancing to the Virgin, within the great church itself. And
+near the high altar, where thick glass plates are set into the floor,
+letting a dim light into the crypts below, one may see crowds of indians
+rubbing the smooth surface with their diseased parts to effect a cure.
+On the streets of the capital city, one daily sees bands of pure Otomis
+in rags and filth, bringing their loads of charcoal and of corn to
+market. Their ugly dark faces, their strange native dress, their harsh
+language, make on the stranger an impression not easily forgotten.
+
+Reliable figures are wanting as to the number of pure Mexican Indians.
+If the population of the Republic be estimated at fifteen millions, it
+should be safe to say that five millions of this number are indians
+of pure blood, speaking their old language, keeping alive much of the
+ancient life and thought. In some parts of Mexico, it almost seems as if
+what white-blood once existed is now breeding out. The indian of Mexico
+is conservative; he does not want contact with a larger world; his
+village suffices for his needs; he is ready to pay taxes for the sake of
+being let alone, to live in peace, after the way his fathers lived. In
+his bosom there is still hatred of the white man and the _mestizo_, and
+distrust of every stranger. The Chamula outbreak in 1868, and the Maya
+war just ended, are examples of this smouldering hatred. Mexico has a
+serious problem in its Indians; the solution of the problem has been
+attempted in various ways, according to whether the population dealt
+with was Totonac, Yaqui, Maya: it is no small task, to build a nation
+out of an indian population.
+
+Soon after the publication of my "Indians of Southern Mexico," I had
+the pleasure of presenting a copy of the book to President Diaz, and of
+looking through its pictures with him. When we came to the general view
+of Yodocono, and its little lake, tears stood in the old man's eyes as
+he said, "Sir, that was my mother's birthplace, and in her honor I have
+established, at my own expense, two schools, one for boys, and one for
+girls." Looking at the round huts of Chicahuastla, he shivered, and
+remarked: "Ah, sir, but it is cold in Chicahuastla." I replied, "Your
+Excellency, I see that you have been in Chicahuastla." When he saw the
+Zapotec types, from the District of Tehuantepec, he said: "They are fine
+large fellows; they make good soldiers; when I was Governor of Oaxaca, I
+had a body-guard of them." He then told me of the six orphan boys who,
+in memory of his body-guard, he had adopted and educated; he told me
+with pride of the success which the five who still live had made, and
+of the positions they were filling. When he reached the portrait of the
+little Mixtec, carrying a sack of corn, who, with pride, had told me, in
+answer to my question, that his name was Porfirio Diaz, the President
+of the Republic looked long and earnestly at the picture, and I noticed
+that, when we turned the pages, his finger marked the spot where the
+likeness of his name-sake was, and, when the book was finished, before
+closing it, he turned back again, and looked at the little fellow's
+face. At the first Otomi portrait, he had said: "Ah, sir, but my schools
+will change the Otomis."
+
+It would be pleasant to have faith in President Diaz' solution of the
+Otomi problem, but to me it seems doubtful. Of course, I recall with
+pleasure my visit to the boys' school at San Nicolas Panotla. It was
+interesting to see those little Tlaxcalan fellows solve problems in
+alligation and percentage, in bonds and mortgages; but it is doubtful
+whether any of them, in actual life, will have to deal with blending
+coffees, or with selling bonds, and cutting coupons. Still, from such
+indian towns great men have come in the past, and great men will come in
+the future. Benito Juarez, who laid the foundations on which Diaz has
+so magnificently built, was a pure-blood Zapotec. From the Aztecs, the
+Tlaxcalans, Mixtecs, Zapotecs and Mayas, we may hope much in the future.
+They were races of achievement in the past, and the monuments of their
+achievement still remain. But that the Otomi, the Triqui, or the Mixe,
+should be made over by the schools is doubtful. Personally, I feel that
+the prosperity of Mexico rests more upon the indian blood than on any
+other element of national power. That schools will do much to train the
+more gifted tribes perhaps is true. But there are indians, and indians,
+in Mexico.
+
+
+
+  GLOSSARY OF SPANISH AND INDIAN WORDS
+
+  abusos.   abuses, disturbances.
+  adios.   adieu, good-bye.
+  agente.   agent.
+  agua.   water.
+  agua bendita.   blessed water.
+  agua miel.   lit. honey water, the unfermented juice of the maguey.
+  aguardiente.   a spirituous liquor.
+  aguas frescas.   refreshing drinks.
+  ahuacate.   a fruit, the alligator pear.
+  aje, or axe.   an insect; a greasy mass, yielding a lacquer-like lustre.
+  alcalde.   a town judge.
+  arbol.   tree.
+  arriero.   a convoyer of loaded mules or horses.
+  atole.   a corn gruel.
+  autorizada.   authorized, having authority.
+  axolotl.   a water salamander, with peculiar life-history.
+  ayatl, or ayate.   a carry-cloth.
+  barranca.   a gorge, or gully.
+  bruja.   witch.
+  brujeria.   witchcraft.
+  burro.   ass.
+  cabecera.   the head-town of a district.
+  cafe.   coffee.
+  caiman.   a reptile much like an alligator.
+  camaron.   shrimp.
+  camisa.   shirt.
+  cantera, cantero.   a water-jar, or pitcher.
+  cargador.   carrier.
+  carreta.   cart.
+  carretero.   a carter.
+  cascaron.   an eggshell filled with bits of cut paper.
+  catalan.   a wine, named from a Spanish town.
+  cenote.   a cave with water.
+  centavo.   a coin, the one-hundredth part of a peso; a cent.
+  chac mool.   a stone figure, found at Chichen Itza, Yucatan.
+  chalupa.   a boat-shaped crust with meat or vegetables in it.
+  chamara.   a blanket for wearing.
+  champurrado.   a mixture, as of atole and chocolate.
+  chapapote.   chewing-gum.
+  chicha.   an intoxicant made from sugar-cane.
+  chicle.   chewing-gum.
+  chinampa.   "floating garden," a garden patch.
+  chirimiya.   a shrill musical instrument, somewhat
+  like a fife or flageolet.
+  chirimoya.   the custard-apple.
+  cigarro.   cigarette.
+  cincalotl, cincalote.   granary.
+  clarin.   a bird, with clear note.
+  cochero.   coachman.
+  colorin.   a tree.
+  comiteco.   a spirits made at Comitan.
+  Conquista.   Conquest.
+  copal.   a gum, much used as incense.
+  coro.   loft.
+  corral.   an enclosure for animals.
+  costumbre.   custom.
+  coton, cotones.   a man's upper garment, a sort of poncho.
+  cuartel.   barracks.
+  cuezcomatl, cuezcomate.   granary.
+  cura.   parish priest.
+  curato.   parish house.
+  danza.   dance.
+  doctrina.   doctrine, catechism.
+  don.   Mr., used only when the Christian name of a person is spoken.
+  dulce.   sweet, sweetmeat.
+  dulcero.   maker or seller of sweets.
+  dulceria.   sweetmeat factory.
+  enagua.   woman's skirt.
+  enchilada.   a fried tortilla with chili and cheese.
+  feria.   fair.
+  fiesta.   festival.
+  finca.   farm, plantation.
+  firma.   signature.
+  fiscal.   fiscal officer,
+  frijol, frijoles.   bean, beans,
+  golondrina.   swallow,
+  gramatica.   grammar.
+  gringo.   somewhat derisive term applied to foreigners,
+  especially Americans.
+  guardia.   guard.
+  hacienda.   a country-place.
+  haciendado, haciendero.   the owner of an hacienda.
+  hennequin.   a plant producing fibre, sisal hemp.
+  hermita.   a retired shrine.
+  herreria.   smithy, forge, ironworks.
+  h'men.   conjuror.
+  huehuetes.   the old ones.
+  huehuetl, huehuete.   the ancient upright drum.
+  huerfano.   orphan.
+  huipil, huipili.   a woman's waist garment.
+  huipilili.   a woman's waist garment, worn under the huipil.
+  idioma.   idiom, language.
+  incomunicado.   solitary, not allowed communication.
+  itinerario.   itinerary.
+  itztli.   obsidian.
+  ixtli.   fibre from the maguey and cactus.
+  jacal.   a hut.
+  jarabe.   a popular dance.
+  jicara.   a gourd-cup, or vessel.
+  jonote.   a tree.
+  Jornada.   a day's march.
+  juez.   judge.
+  ke'esh.   a votive figure.
+  ladino.   a mestizo, a person not Indian.
+  ladron, ladrones.   thief, thieves.
+  liana.   vine.
+  licenciado.   lawyer.
+  lima.   a fruit, somewhat like an insipid orange.
+  lindas.   pretty (girls).
+  llano.   a grassy plain.
+  machete.   a large knife.
+  maestro.   teacher, a master in any trade.
+  maguey.   a plant, the century plant or agave, yielding pulque.
+  mai, pelico.   tobacco, mixed with chili and lime.
+  malacatl, malacate.   spindle-whorl.
+  malinche.   malinche.
+  mamey.   a fruit, orange flesh and brown exterior.
+  manta.   cotton-cloth, a woman's dress.
+  manana.   to-morrow.
+  mapachtl.   a small animal, perhaps the raccoon or badger.
+  mapaho.   beating-sticks, for cleaning cotton.
+  mayores.   chiefs, village elders, police.
+  medio.   six centavos.
+  meson.   a house for travellers.
+  mescal.   a spirits, made from an agave.
+  mestizo.   a person of mixed blood.
+  metate.   stone upon which corn is ground.
+  milagro.   miracle.
+  milpa.   cornfield.
+  mogote.   a mound or tumulus.
+  mole.   a stew, highly seasoned with chili.
+  mole prieto.   black mole.
+  moral.   a tree, mulberry.
+  mozo.   a young man, a servant.
+  mudo.   mute, dumb.
+  mulada.   a mule train.
+  muneco.   doll, figure.
+  municipio.   town, town-government, town-house.
+  nacimiento.   an arrangement of figures and grotto-work,
+  made at Christmastide.
+  nada.   nothing.
+  nagual.   conjuror.
+  negrito.   (diminutive) negro.
+  nublina.   mist, fog.
+  ocote.   pine-tree, splinter of pine.
+  otro.   other.
+  padre.   father, priest.
+  padrecito.   priest.
+  pais.   country, esp. one's native town.
+  panela.   sugar in cake or loaf.
+  papaya.   a fruit.
+  pastorela.   a drama relative to the Nativity.
+  pastores.   shepherds.
+  patio.   inside court of house.
+  pelico, mai.   tobacco, with chili and lime.
+  peso.   a money denomination, one hundred centavos, one dollar.
+  petate.   mat.
+  pinolillo.   a species of tick.
+  pinto.   a disease, spotted skin.
+  pita.   a fibre.
+  pitero.   a fifer.
+  pito.   fife.
+  plaza.   town square.
+  portales.   a building with corridor in front.
+  posol, posole.   corn prepared to carry on journey, for mixing with
+water.
+  prefecto.   prefect.
+  presidente.   president.
+  principales.   principal men, councillors.
+  pueblito.   small pueblo, village.
+  pulque.   an intoxicant, made from maguey sap.
+  quichiquemil.   a woman's upper garment.
+  rancho.   a country-place.
+  ranchito.   a small ranch.
+  rebozo.   a woman's garment, a wrap or light shawl.
+  regidor.   alderman.
+  remedio.   remedy.
+  sangre.   blood.
+  santo, santito.   saint.
+  senor.   sir, gentleman.
+  senora.   madam, lady.
+  senorita.   Miss, young woman.
+  serape.   a blanket, for wearing.
+  sindico.   recorder.
+  soltero.   an unmarried man.
+  sombrero.   hat.
+  subida.   ascent.
+  tabla.   board.
+  tamales.   dumplings of corn-meal.
+  tambour.   drum.
+  tatita.   papa.
+  tepache.   a fermented drink.
+  teponastl, teponaste.   the ancient horizontal drum.
+  tienda.   store, shop.
+  tierra caliente.   hot country.
+  tigre.   tiger, jaguar.
+  tinaja.   water-jar.
+  topil.   a messenger or police.
+  toro.   bull.
+  tortillas.   corn-cakes, cooked on a griddle.
+  tortuga.   turtle.
+  tsupakwa.   dart-thrower.
+  ule.   rubber.
+  vaca.   cow.
+  vamonos.   come on, we are going.
+  viejos.   old.
+  vomito.   yellow fever.
+  xalama.   a tree.
+  xtol, xtoles.   a dancer, or dancers (see Merida, narrative).
+  zacate, sacate.   hay, fodder.
+
+
+
+
+ITINERARY
+
+
+The expedition of 1896 was preliminary. We went by rail from the City
+of Mexico to Oaxaca, capital of the state of the same name. Thence, we
+journeyed by horse through the states of Oaxaca and Chiapas, to the city
+of Guatemala, entering the Republic of Guatemala at Nenton. The return
+journey was made by rail to the Pacific port of San Jose, steamer to
+Salina Cruz, rail to Coatzacoalcos, steamer to Vera Cruz, and rail to
+the City of Mexico. Only the portion of this journey between Oaxaca and
+Nenton is here described, the rest not lying in Indian Mexico. The City
+of Mexico was headquarters for the work in 1897-98. A trip was made by
+rail from there to Dos Rios, to measure and photograph the Otomis of
+Huixquilucan, in the state of Mexico. Thence we went to Patzcuaro by
+rail, and studied the Tarascans in the villages about Lake Patzcuaro,
+visiting these by canoe-trips. We then made a trip on horseback to
+Uruapan (then without rail connection), returning by some important
+indian towns. After returning to Mexico, we visited the states of
+Tlaxcala and Puebla. In and around the City of Tlaxcala, we secured
+our Tlaxcalan subjects. At Cuauhtlantzinco, we worked upon Aztecs. Our
+experiences at this large town of Puebla are not described, as Bandelier
+has already rendered the place familiar, and we ourselves have written
+of it elsewhere. With these two peoples, we made our first essays
+at bust-making. After returning to Mexico, we went by rail, on the
+Guadalajara branch of the Mexican Central, to Negrete. From there, by
+coach (there being then no railroad) to Zamora. Thence, we struck, on
+horseback, through the Tarascan territory, across to Patzcuaro. On the
+way, we secured our full series of Tarascan busts, at the Once Pueblos.
+By rail, we went from Patzcuaro to Dos Rios, to secure our lacking busts
+of Otomis at Huixquilucan. In the second field expedition, January to
+March 1899, we worked entirely in the state of Oaxaca. At first a trip
+was made, by horse, from Oaxaca into the Mixteca Alta, where Mixtecs and
+Triquis were studied. Again starting from Oaxaca, we traveled over our
+old trails of 1896, through the mountains to Tehuantepec, returning
+by the high-road in common use. Zapotecs were studied at Mitla and
+Tehuantepec, and the Mixes, Juaves, and Chontals in various towns and
+villages. The season's work closed by our study, at and near Cuicatlan,
+of the Cuicatecs. At this town, too, we began to work upon Chinantecs.
+In the third field expedition, during the early months of 1900, we
+visited seven populations, making our regular study upon six of them. To
+fill a week that would otherwise have been lost, we made a pedestrian
+trip through the interesting indian towns on the slopes of Malintzi.
+Then, from Cuicatlan as a center, we made two journeys--one to San Juan
+Zautla and San Pedro Soochiapan, to examine Chinantecs; the other to
+Coixtlahuaca, for seeing Chochos. From Cuicatlan, we struck north by
+rail to San Antonio, and, by coach to Teotitlan del Camino and by horse
+beyond, penetrated to the great Mazatec town of Huauhtla. Chinantecs,
+Chochos, and Mazatecs are tribes of Oaxaca. Leaving that state, we
+traveled by rail to Tulancingo. From there, by coach and on horseback,
+we visited Otomi, Aztec, Tepehua and Totonac towns in the states of
+Puebla and Hidalgo. With the field season of 1901, our work in Indian
+Mexico ended. It was pursued in three separated areas. From the City of
+Mexico, we went by rail to Tampico. From that point, a journey by canoe
+and horse enabled us to see the Huaxtecs of the state of Vera Cruz.
+Returning to Tampico, a trip by steamer across the gulf brought us to
+Yucatan. Progreso and Merida were visited, and our work was done upon
+the Mayas living near the town of Tekax. A second trip on the gulf
+brought us to Coatzacoalcos, whence the railroad was used to Tehuantepec
+and San Geronimo. From the latter point, an ox-cart journey of ten
+nights, across the states of Oaxaca and Chiapas, brought us to Tuxtla
+Gutierrez. By horse we continued through Chiapas to El Salto, where we
+took steamer for Frontera. From there, by steamer to Vera Cruz and then
+by rail, we traveled to the City of Mexico. Zoques, Tzotzils, Tzendals,
+and Chols were studied in this portion of the journey.
+
+
+
+
+APPENDIX
+
+STARR IN OLD MEXICO
+
+
+Oaxaca, Mexico, March 1.--Prof. Frederick Starr, of the University
+of Chicago, is deep in the midst of his savages. He is manipulating
+primitive town governments, wielding the authority of federal and state
+governments, county police, and that of the clergy as well. He is
+threatening, cajoling, clapping in jail, when necessary, and in general
+conquering his series of strange nations. I found him doing all this,
+and more, in a little native village fifty miles from the city of
+Oaxaca, Feb. 2nd. The fat little man was complete master of the Zapotec
+town of Mitla, far distant from the end of the last of the railroads,
+a town famous for its ruins. He bustled about like a captain in a war
+haste, dressed in a massive Indian sombrero, from which a white string
+floated picturesquely behind, a necktie of slim, dusty black, which
+seemed not to have been unknotted for many a day, a shirt less
+immaculate than the one he may wear at the entertainment shortly to
+be given him in London, and no coat. The professor's trousers are not
+Indian. They are farm trousers, of an original type, with double seat
+for the saddle.
+
+The professor's blood was up. A grand native feast--in which drunken
+dances, bull-fights, and a state of accumulated irresponsibility are the
+rule--had delayed him three days. The Indians could no more be measured
+and "busted"--as the professor calls the making of plaster casts--than
+could the liquor they had drunk. After three days of pleading,
+threatening, and berating, in which orders from every government and
+church official in the country, from lowest to highest, had failed,
+Prof. Starr seized the black-bearded and wiry president of the town
+council, the chief potentate of the reeling set, called him a drunken
+scoundrel, threatened in deep seriousness to imprison every man in the
+town, and finally won his point--but not until the feast was done. When
+feasts are over, the people are kindly, suave, gracious.
+
+Then the professor corralled those he wanted. He was to measure for
+scientific purposes 100 of the Indians, in the order in which they
+chanced to present themselves. After such wheedling as it must have
+taken infinite practice to acquire--pattings of the Zapotec
+back, hugging of the men, chucking the children, with elaborate
+explanations--the thing "took" and the people fell into the spirit of
+it. The jail was the only accessible building, and was strangely empty.
+It was of adobe, a jail of one room, with a dirt floor. There were no
+windows, only the single barred door.
+
+From every cane-walled, thatched, tropical hut that helps to make the
+irregular cluster around the central plaza and its adjoining bull ring
+they came, if not to be measured, to see. They were driven by the
+highest of the town authorities--for every element of the population
+waited on the bidding of the little sugar-tongued professor from the
+north--one by one into the jail, and the rest curiously watched. The
+measuring was done without undressing, but the "busting" was the point
+of chief interest. Five representative specimens had been carefully
+selected for this purpose. They were won slowly, by the glitter of 75
+cents of Mexican silver. In some towns, only 50 cents was required, and
+in others, $1. The smirking Indian, with his wildness hidden away, or
+only peeping from his eye, entered. He disrobed with no shame. He was
+put flat on the floor, face down, on a little piece of matting. At
+this stage some objected. Then the Anglo-Saxon was down on the floor,
+wheedling, talking such sweetness as can be spoken without silliness
+only in the Spanish tongue.
+
+The victim finally consents. Then the Mexican plaster worker, who has
+followed the caravan from its start, goes to work. He makes a cast of
+the back of the head and shoulders, and the Indian is turned over,
+face up. Another cast of the breast and neck and chin is made, and yet
+another of the front half of the head and the face, with little tubes
+for breathing sticking through it. The Indian has grunted, snorted,
+laughed and squirmed, but he has been made to understand that he must
+be still. That great 75 cents is held always over him, and the thing is
+accomplished.
+
+During all the process, the crowd of Indians about and in the jail was
+eager-eyed and astonished. The women wear odd woolen, blanket-like
+skirts of red or black, folded in two great plaits down the front. The
+dress does not reach the ankles, and the feet are bare. They carry the
+baby on the back, wound in the rebozo, with its bare legs straddling
+her and sticking out. The men wear a sandal quite different from the
+ordinary Mexican footgear.
+
+Of the 100 that were to be measured, Jose was one. Jose was of a better
+family, a character in the town, and proud. He rebelled. This breach of
+the professor's authority could not be allowed. Jose was summoned by the
+president of the town, the honeyed, affable "Senor Presidente," the same
+who had been called the drunken scoundrel, now accommodating, a true and
+emotional friend. Jose sent a thousand excuses, and finally defiance.
+
+"That man," cried the professor, showing his writ of authority from the
+_jefe politico_ of the district, "I order to be arrested."
+
+Jose did not flee. He was found next morning in the bull ring riding a
+bull. He was arrested by the Chicagoan's orders, and taken to jail. He
+was peremptorily ordered by the professor to appear for the measurement.
+He escaped, and again defied the powers. He was again caught, and it was
+explained to him by the president that this man of might from the beyond
+had sworn to drag Jose with him all the way across this wild country
+slowly to Tehuantepec, thence back to the city of Oaxaca, where the
+state authorities would deal most painfully with him. And this, indeed,
+in mighty manner and impressively, had the "man from the beyond" sworn
+to do. Jose came and was measured, and I afterward saw him calling to
+the professor to come and take a jolly drink out of the gourd he was
+shaking at him, in the manner of a comrade.
+
+In the afternoon, the work being done, the civilities and sugared
+conduct must be continued, with a view to future visits. The professor
+wanted to enter the church, which, though modern, stands in the
+middle of one of the mysterious ruins. The church was locked, and the
+mayor-domo not to be found.
+
+"But I must photograph a strange picture you have in there."
+
+"The mayor-domo is drunk, at your service, my most excellent friend,"
+replied the president, sympathetically. "I am sorry, but he got under
+the influence three days ago at the beginning of the feast, and he has
+slept ever since. Ah, the mayor-domo is sleeping now, my excellent
+friend, and he has the keys."
+
+"You shall send a boy into the tower to ring the bell and wake the
+mayor-domo," cried the professor.
+
+The crowd sat on the stone steps, the bell was pealed, and at last the
+church was opened, and the picture photographed.
+
+The procession then moved to the top of an ancient pyramid, in which
+tombs have been opened, and bones and gold ornaments found. The
+professor dashed through all the tunnels, with the government after
+him, before mounting to the top. On top a strange conversation was held
+between the professor and the president and secretary. They appealed to
+this northern man, who seemed to have all earthly authority back of him,
+to grant them one longed-for boon. Would he not please speak, when he
+returned to the capital, to the minister of encouragement, that he send
+them a brass band! They wanted to welcome northern visitors to the ruins
+with modern music.
+
+"You have great power. You need but to ask of those in Mexico and the
+band will come. Most beloved friend, oh, most excellent professor from
+the far north, give to us a brass band!" And the professor promised to
+speak to Minister Leal about it. Then, too, the beastly state government
+was dragging some of their precious ruins away to put in a museum. Would
+the professor please have the kindness to stop this? The professor
+promised to do what he could, and he was hugged and blessed and patted
+by the simple people.
+
+Prof. Starr began his ethnological studies to westward of Oaxaca. Mitla
+is eastward. In the west, he visited two tribes--the Mixtecas and the
+Triquis. The latter are a branch of the former, but much different,
+living in round bamboo huts, surprisingly like those of some African
+tribes. He secured two excellent casts of the Triquis, and three of the
+Mixtecas. He intended to take five of each tribe he visited, but his
+plaster failed to arrive. He studies the languages, also, as he goes,
+and finds many varying dialects, from each of which he secures a
+test vocabulary of 200 words. He is now approaching the Mixes, the
+"cannibals." All the City of Mexico papers laugh at the idea of his
+encountering the slightest danger, and the professor himself scoffs at
+it. He believes some of the Mixes have, within forty years, eaten human
+flesh, but he says he is certain they are harmless now.
+
+CHARLES F. EMBREE. [From _The Chicago Record_: March 24, 1899.]
+
+
+
+
+THE PURPLE SPOT ON MAYA BABIES
+
+
+When I was in Yucatan in 1901 the parish priest of Texax told me that it
+was said that every pure blood Maya Indian has a violet or purple spot
+on his back, in the sacral region. He stated that this spot was called
+by the native name, uits, "bread," and that it was vulgar or insulting
+to make reference to it. I at once examined three Mayas of pure blood--a
+boy of ten years and two adult males--but found no trace of such a
+spot. I concluded that the presence of the spot might be an infantile
+character, as it is among the Japanese, but at that time I had no
+opportunity to examine Maya babies.
+
+Dr. Baelz, a German physician, who has spent many years in Japan, long
+ago called attention to the existence of such spots on Japanese infants.
+The spots described by him were of a blue or purple color, were located
+upon the back (especially in the sacral region), and were variable in
+form and size. They were temporary, disappearing at from two to eight
+years of age. The occurrence of these infantile color blotches was so
+common in Japan as to be almost characteristic of the race.
+
+In time, other students reported similar spots on other Asiatic babies,
+and on non-Asiatic babies of Mongolian or Mongoloid peoples. Chinese,
+Annamese, Coreans, Greenland Eskimos, and some Malays are now known to
+have such spots. Sacral spots have also been reported among Samoans and
+Hawaiians.
+
+Practically, all these people belong to the great yellow race, as
+defined by De Quatrefages, and are, if not pure representatives of that
+race, mixed bloods, in part, of it. Baelz and some other writers have,
+therefore, gone so far as to consider the purple sacral spot a mark
+peculiar to that race, and to believe its occurrence proof of Mongolian
+origin. They have asked whether the spot occurs among American Indians,
+and would consider its occurrence evidence of an Asiatic origin for
+our native tribes. Satisfactory observations had not been made. Baelz
+himself found two cases among Vancouver Island Indians.
+
+In my recent trip to Mexico I planned to look for this spot among
+several Indian tribes. Out of six populations that I expected to visit I
+really saw but two--the Aztecs and the Mayas. I do not believe that
+the sacral spot exists among Aztecs. I made no search, because
+Aztec friends, who would be sure to know, all agreed in denying its
+occurrence. Among the Mayas, the case is different. In the little Maya
+town of Palenque I examined all the pure blood babies. The back of the
+first little creature bared for my inspection bore a clearly defined,
+dark blue-purple spot, just where it might be expected. The spot was
+almost two inches wide and nearly three-fourths of an inch high. The
+child was a boy of eight months. A brother, two years old, showed no
+trace of the spot, but the mother says it was formerly well defined.
+
+Every one of the seven pure Maya babies, below ten months old, in the
+town was purple-spotted. A pair of boy twins, two months old, were
+marked in precisely the same place with pale blue-purple spots, of the
+same size and form. In one boy of ten months the spot seemed to be
+disappearing and was represented by three ill-defined and separated
+blotches. In the village, there were three babies of suitable age, but
+of mixed--Spanish-Maya--blood; no one of these showed any trace of the
+colored spot. We may say, then, that in Palenque every Maya baby below
+ten months of age was sacral spotted, and that no Mestizo baby was.
+
+Does this prove that the Mayas are Asiatics by ancestry? The daily press
+asserts that I make that claim; it is mistaken. I am free to say I don't
+know what to do with my spotted Maya babies. I presume that Baelz will
+cousin them with his little Japanese.
+
+FREDERICK STARR. From _The Chicago Tribune_: January 11, 1903.
+
+
+
+  INDEX
+
+  abandoned river course, 374.
+  acacia, 97, 216.
+  Acala, 48, 361.
+  Agua Bendita (Chiapa), 44, 348.
+  Agua Bendita (Mex.), 64.
+  agua miel, 61.
+  aguardiente, 255.
+  Aguazotepec, 240.
+  aje, 45: insect, 46; 79.
+  Ajuno, 76, 84, 107.
+  Akxotla, 191.
+  alcaldes indios, 357.
+  alligators, 277, 290.
+  Ancona, Bishop, 300.
+  antiquities, 116, 223, 230, 239, 288, 345.
+  ant--foraging, 289;
+  --honey, 190.
+  apparition of the Virgin, 395.
+  Aranza, 82.
+  arbol huerfano, 196.
+  arriero--tardy, 271;
+  --unreliable, 358;
+  --abandons us, 385.
+  Arroyo--Jefe, 247.
+  Atla, 245;
+  carry-sacks, 256;
+  costume, 256;
+  witchcraft, 256.
+  Atlihuitzia--Santa Maria, 195.
+  axolotl, 64.
+  ayate, 58, 267, 271.
+  Ayutla, 23, 149.
+  Aztec, 242, 279, 281, 283, 285, 397;
+  breakfast, 196.
+
+  babies--carrying, 267;
+  --care of, 57.
+  bamboo, 289.
+  band--Huauhtla, 237;
+  --honors us, 124.
+  bandolier, 318.
+  Barela, Sr. and Sra., 189.
+  bark-paper, 245, 246, 268.
+  Baron, 293, 320.
+  barranca, 190,191, 214, 280, 363.
+  Barrios--Pedro, 230.
+  basalt, 196, 249.
+  battle of flowers, 321.
+  begonia, 246.
+  Belen, 194.
+  bells--pottery, 112.
+  Benito Juarez--steamer, 293.
+  Bernal Diaz, 91.
+  bishop--Merida, 300.
+  blackflies, 343.
+  Blanco--Juan, 303, 316.
+  blessing--a mother's, 111.
+  bloom--trees, 340, 364.
+  Boca del Rio--rancho, 168.
+  books--Mixe, 155;
+  --Mixtec, 141;
+  Zapotec, 165.
+  bowls--calabash, 353.
+  boxes--scarce, 370.
+  boy--work of, 35, 37;
+  --and iguana, 54.
+  breech-clout, 344.
+  bridge--covered, 77;
+  --of vines, 32, 207.
+  Brinton, 374.
+  bromelias, 22, 27, 126, 154, 199, 207, 219, 232.
+  bruheria, 246, 256, 376.
+  bull met, 214.
+  burning fields, 374, 376.
+  bust-making, 65, 99, 104, 146, 234, 382.
+  de Butrie--M. and Mme., 235, 236, 237.
+
+  cactus, 8, 11, 181, 182, 217, 329;
+  --pitahaya, 96.
+  Cahuantzi--Gov. Prospero, 85, 94, 193.
+  caimans, 290.
+  cairn, 218.
+  calabashes, 314.
+  caladium, 201, 249.
+  calandria, 334.
+  Calistro--Antonio, 61.
+  camalpa, 191.
+  camaron, 276.
+  Camotlan, 32, 155.
+  camp--traveller's, 178.
+  Campeche, 306, 355;
+  --banks, 295.
+  canal, 291.
+  Cancuc, 365, 366, 371, 374;
+  --outbreak, 374;
+  --reception, 375;
+  --music, 376;
+  --dress, 377.
+  Candaleria--Maria, 374.
+  canoes, 275, 289, 360;
+  --Tarascan, 68;
+  --travel, 277;
+  --empty, 292.
+  Canton--Gov. Francisco, 300, 301, 355.
+  Capacuaro, 78, 80.
+  Carapan, 104.
+  Carizal, 342.
+  carnival, 239, 317, 318, 321, 324.
+  Carrera, 52.
+  carretero, 333, 334, 342, 343;
+  --camping, 338.
+  carriers, 53, 54.
+  --small, but devoted, 384,386;
+  --trouble, 206.
+  carry-frame, 243.
+  carts, 95, 333.
+  cart-road, 45, 48, 139, 342.
+  Carvajal, 179.
+  cascades, 262.
+  cascarones, 239.
+  Castle, Dr., 164, 165, 170, 328, 329.
+  Castolo--Zapotec boy, 35, 159.
+  cattle, among Juaves, 168;
+  --loading, 294;
+  driving, 348.
+  cave, near Comitan, 50;
+  --witch's, near Atla, 256;
+  --near Pantepec, 269;
+  near Tekax, 313, 314.
+  cave formations, 315.
+  cave--hat-makers, 224.
+  celebration--St. Martin's eve, 62.
+  cemetery--visits to, 165.
+  Cempoalteca--family, 92.
+  cempoalxochil, 257.
+  cenotes, 297, 316.
+  chacalacca, 334, 343.
+  chacmool, 319.
+  chalcedony, 38, 139.
+  chamara, 366, 367.
+  champurado, 196.
+  Chamula, 45, 365, 366, 367, 371;
+  --outbreak, 366, 396.
+  chapapote, 288, 291, 292.
+  chavacanes, 287.
+  Checheb, 366.
+  Cheran, 78, 82, 106.
+  chert, 129.
+  Chiapa, 45, 353, 360, 361, 364;
+  --lacquer, 45.
+  Chiapanecs, 361.
+  Chiapas, 293, 340;
+  --Indians, 44.
+  Chicago Record, 405;
+  --Tribune, 411.
+  Chicahuastla, 131, 396;
+  --an afternoon in, 133.
+  chicha, 377.
+  Chichen-Itza, 318.
+  Chila, 7, 10.
+  Chilchota, 98.
+  child--deserted, 136;
+  --grateful, 164.
+  Chilon, 379.
+  chinampas, 395.
+  Chinantecs, 210;
+  --land of, 212.
+  chirimiya--Mitla, 18;
+  --Los Reyes, 91.
+  Chochos, 218, 226;
+  hats, 224.
+  Chols, 380, 389;
+  --dress, 389;
+  --laborers, 384;
+  --type, 389.
+  Cholula, 108.
+  Chontals, 173;
+  --type, 175.
+  Christmas celebration, 71.
+  church of the thieves, 63.
+  la Cienega, 349.
+  cincalote, 60.
+  circus, 42.
+  Citala, 378.
+  Citlaltepec, 277, 279.
+  clays, 128.
+  cleanliness of person, 297.
+  climate--results, 306.
+  cloud-effects, 196;
+  --lake, 26;
+  --cataract, 28.
+  coach--unreliable, 228, 229;
+  --well-loaded, 315;
+  --fictitious, 331.
+  Coatlan, 34, 157.
+  Coatzacoalcos, 293, 325, 326, 331, 351, 393.
+  cochero--troublesome, 242.
+  cockroaches, 378.
+  cocoa palms, 169, 181.
+  cocoles, 287.
+  coffee, 155;
+  --plantation, 387;
+  --essence, 204.
+  Coixtlahuaca, 220, 224, 226;
+  --hat-making, 224;
+  --celebration, 224.
+  color-massing of flowers, 212.
+  colorin tree, 268.
+  comales, 127.
+  Comitan, 51.
+  comiteco, 51.
+  condolence--visit, 174.
+  conglomerate, 181, 182, 377.
+  Conkal, 297.
+  contract-labor system, 384, 388.
+  convent-church, 140.
+  cook-house, 88.
+  cooking, 339.
+  copal, 252.
+  Cordoba woman, 217, 227.
+  Cordova--Javier, 128, 135.
+  corpse rejected, 189.
+  Cortez' trail, 196.
+  cosmopolitan group, 325.
+  costumbre-annual,--Otomi, 250;
+  --Totonac, 252.
+  costume, 242;
+  --Juave, 169;
+  --Mazateco, 221;
+  --Mixtec, 127;
+  --Otomi, 58, 258;
+  --Totonac, 252;
+  --Tzotzil, 49;
+  --Zapotec, 40, 177.
+  cotones--see costume.
+  cotton--beating, 202.
+  counterfeiters in Tlaxcala, 94.
+  couple--mysterious, 354.
+  Coyotepec, 113.
+  crabs, 326.
+  Cristobal martyr boy, 195.
+  crosses, 269.
+  crucified child, 366.
+  la Cruzada, 387, 391;
+  --unsettled conditions, 391.
+  Cuaquitepec, 377, 378.
+  Cuauhtepec, 251.
+  cuezcomate, 88, 190.
+  Cuezcomate--the, 189.
+  Cuicatlan, 181, 198, 215, 227.
+  Culin--Mr., 263, 269.
+  Cuquila, 129, 137.
+  customs-house, 295.
+  cycle superstition, 139.
+  cypress, 139.
+
+  dance wands, 257.
+  dancers, 317, 325.
+  danza, 265, 268;
+  --de la Conquista, 30;
+  --de los Negros, 287;
+  --de los mestizos, 325.
+  date palm, 126.
+  deaf-mutism, 48, 49, 79, 205.
+  December, 12, 395.
+  deer, 43.
+  deformity, 155.
+  Diaz--President Porfirio, ix, 396, 397.
+  Diego--Juan, 395.
+  disaster to plates, 365.
+  distance marks, 309.
+  distilleries, 51, 315.
+  disturbance--village, 202.
+  Dona Cecilia, 293.
+  Dos Rios, 56.
+  doves, 219, 288.
+  dragon-tree, 246.
+  drinking, 207.
+  drunken officials, 24, 25, 29, 71, 72, 80, 144, 201;
+  --visitor, 335.
+  ducks, 278.
+  dulces, 314.
+  dynamiting streams, 251, 360.
+
+  eagle, 166, 219.
+  earthquake, 137, 138;
+  --Tehuantepec, 161;
+  Papalo, 183.
+  echo, 90.
+  eggs, 159.
+  Ellsworth Mr., 385, 392.
+  Embree Mr., 410.
+  enagua, see costume.
+  enchiladas, 286.
+  Esperanza mule-line, 7.
+  Espindola, Sr., 331, 332, 333.
+  Espinola--Macario, 120.
+  Etla, 116.
+  Expeditions, vii.
+  Eurosa--Sr., 246.
+  Eustasio, our carretero, 333, 334, 336, 340, 341, 344, 347, 348,
+  349, 352, 379.
+  excitement--political, 191, 193.
+  exorbitant charges, 8, 9;
+  --Ixcuintepec, 33;
+  --Xalapa, 174;
+  --Tequixistlan, 175;
+  --Tulancingo, etc., 241;
+  --Huachinango, 243;
+  --Huehuetla, 271.
+
+  faja--see costume.
+  fans used in dance, 318.
+  feather-work, 82.
+  Feb. 5, celebration, 224.
+  female beauty, 352.
+  feria at Comitan, 51.
+  ferns, 23, 27, 44, 154, 199, 207, 249.
+  Fernandez--Leandro, x.
+  Fernandez--Sr., 320, 323.
+  fever, 151, 387.
+  fiesta--San Marcos, 31.
+  fishes, 317.
+  fishing--night, 265;
+  --handnets, 266;
+  dynamite, 360.
+  flight of the Virgin, 196.
+  floats in procession, 319.
+  flora, 201, 249, 262, 296;
+  --contrast on two slopes, 23, 154, 199, 232;
+  --curious assemblage, 118;
+  --land of Mixes, 22;
+  --tropical, 387.
+  flowering shrubs, 22.
+  fog, 27, 126, 132.
+  forest fire, 34.
+  Frank, 189, 192, 200, 209, 213, 216.
+  Frontera, 393.
+  frost, 245, 251.
+  fugitive Jefe, 136.
+  funeral--an interrupted, 125;
+  --timely, 180;
+  --procession, 199, 332.
+
+  Gillow--Archbishop Eulogio, 3, 6
+  glossary, 399.
+  god-house, 88.
+  Godinez--Ramon, viii, 200, 209, 272, 273, 276, 308, 313, 319,
+  324, 332, 335, 349, 382, 383.
+  goitre, 48, 49, 79, 155.
+  gold coins worn, 40, 52, 353.
+  Gonzales--Manuel, viii, 108-111, 115, 156, 166, 171, 184, 189,
+  194, 198, 200, 209, 210, 241, 273, 276, 289, 290, 324, 330, 334,
+  348, 349.
+  Gonzales--Gov. Martin, vii, 114.
+  Grabic--Louis, viii, 189, 192, 198, 200, 209, 210, 241, 273, 276,
+  306, 313, 318, 329, 348.
+  granary, 60, 88, 190.
+  granite, 38.
+  greetings--New Year, 114.
+  grippe, 186.
+  Guadalupe, 395.
+  Guadalupe, our cook at Tancoco, 284, 286.
+  guamara, 280.
+  Guatemala, 43, 52, 340;
+  --money, 51.
+  Gutierrez Zamora, 281.
+  Guvino, 41, 333.
+  Guzman--Gamboa, 301.
+
+  hairless dog, 330.
+  hares, 171.
+  hats, 127, 224, 284.
+  hauling timber, 95.
+  hennequin, 296;
+  --treatment, 309.
+  Herman, 1, 5, 9.
+  herons, 278, 291.
+  Hidalgo--steamer, 325.
+  high-road, 40, 173.
+  h'men, 307, 310.
+  honey-wine, 191.
+  horse falls, 218;
+  --ill, 115, 178, 179.
+  hot springs, 96.
+  houses--Aztec, 283;
+  --Huaxtec, 284;
+  --Tarascan, 97;
+  --Totonac, 268.
+  Hrdlicka--his work, v.
+  Huachinango, 242.
+  Huaclilla, 119.
+  Huancito, 99.
+  Huauhtla--view, 232;
+  --town, 233;
+  --trade, 235;
+  --labor ideas, 235.
+  Huautla, 218.
+  Huaxteca verucruzana, 274;
+  --potosina, 274.
+  Huaxtecs, 261, 274, 279, 281;
+  --character, 285;
+  --type, 286.
+  huehuetes=los viejos, 243.
+  huehuetl, 91;
+  --(wrongly so-called), 287, 318, 358, 376.
+  Huehuetla, 247, 261, 263.
+  Huejutla, 283.
+  Huilotepec, 166, 328, 330, 331.
+  huipil, huipili, see costume.
+  huitzatl, 191.
+  Huixquilucan, 56, 59, 245;
+  --thieves, 63.
+  Huixtan, 366.
+  Humboldt--Alexander, at Tule, 16.
+  husband--devoted, 186.
+  husk-stacks, 60.
+  Hyde, Dr. George B., 15.
+
+  idols, 253.
+  Ignacio--boy at Chilchota, 102.
+  iguana, 54, 327.
+  imbecility, 48, 205.
+  incense, 368.
+  indian government, 49, 357.
+  Indian Mexico, v. 396.
+  injured carter, 336.
+  interpreter--false, 383.
+  irrigation, 96.
+  Irvine, Captain, 294.
+  Isidro--uncle, 193.
+  Itztlis, 240.
+  Ixcotla, 193.
+  Ixcoyotla (bark paper), 268.
+  Ixcuintepec, 33, 156, 157.
+  Ixhuatlan, 338, 340.
+  Ixtaltepec, 333.
+  Ixtapa, 363, 373.
+  ixtli, 58, 59.
+  Ixtacalco, 395.
+  Ixtapalapa, 395.
+
+  Jacona, 98.
+  jail--San Cristobal, 367.
+  Janicho, 74.
+  Japanese, 41.
+  javali, 334.
+  jefe politico--drunk, 328;
+  --inefficient, 182, 185, 198, 216;
+  --his relation to his people, vii;
+  --as peacemaker, 353;
+  --of Tuxtla Gutierrez, 356;
+  --of Tulancingo--natural son of, 247.
+  Jiquipilas, 43, 349.
+  jonote, 246, 269.
+  Jornada, 338.
+  Juanico, 179.
+  Juarez--President Benito, 397.
+  Juaves, 164, 165, 168, 331, 337, 338;
+  --type, 169;
+  --night-watch, 170;
+  --singing, 171.
+  Juchitan, 41, 161, 333, 338, 343;
+  --trader, 170.
+  juiles, 395.
+  Juquila (Mixe), 29, 151.
+  Juxtlahuaca--Jefe of, 136.
+
+  Kan--Modesto, 312.
+  ke'esh, 305.
+  kingfisher, 291.
+
+  labor congress, 45.
+  laborers for Yucatan, 294.
+  lacquer--Chiapa, 45, 361;
+  --Uruapang.
+  lagoons, 276, 277, 290, 336.
+  Lake Chapala, 68;
+  --Patzcuaro, 68, 76.
+  landslide, 181.
+  Lang,--Charles B., viii, 115, 179, 184.
+  leaf-water, 193.
+  Leal--Manuel, Fernandez, ix.
+  Leandro, secretario Tamalin, 287.
+  Leon--Governor Francisco, 45, 342.
+  Leyra--Pablo, 246, 260, 263, 271.
+  libation, 255.
+  lightning, 183.
+  limestone, 18, 44, 50, 52, 126, 217, 249, 262, 296, 306, 314, 363,
+  364, 373;
+  --erosion, 118;
+  --hills, 219.
+  llano, 278, 281, 341, 363.
+  la Llave, 277, 278.
+  Lopez--Lieut.-Governor, 351, 381.
+  lost at night, 167.
+  Lumholtz--Charles, v., 79, 80, 83.
+  Lux--Ernst, vii, 3, 10, 14, 159.
+  lycopods, 154, 199.
+
+  macaws, 4, 340.
+  Macuilapa, 345.
+  Magdalena de los comales, 127.
+  maguey, 60, 119.
+  mai, 367.
+  malacates, 59.
+  Malintzi, 188, 189.
+  mangroves, 290.
+  mantas, 128, 148.
+  Manuel, our arriero, 218, 219.
+  mapa, 236, 330.
+  mapachtli, 329.
+  mapaho, 202, 207.
+  Marcelo--Alejandro, 279.
+  Maria as a female name, 56.
+  marimba, 42, 346.
+  Mariano, our mozo, 115, 119, 156.
+  market--Tehuantepec, 162;
+  --Oaxaca, 112.
+  Martinez--Quirino, 249.
+  Martinez--Silvano, 78, 80, 83.
+  maskers, 71, 240, 243.
+  Mayas, 297, 304, 396, 397;
+  --stubbornness, 312.
+  Mazatecs--costume, 234;
+  --houses, 233.
+  measuring--Mitla, 146;
+  --Ayutla, 149.
+  Medellin, 14.
+  medical practice, 36.
+  Mendieta, 195.
+  Mercado--Governor Aristeo, 78.
+  Merida, 295, 297, 301, 315, 355;
+  --expensive living, 298;
+  --carnival, 318, 321.
+  mesquite, 97.
+  Mexicalcingo, 395.
+  Mexico--steamer, 393, 394.
+  miraculous cross, 6.
+  mist, 22, 27.
+  Mitla--ruins, 4;
+  --Mixes seen at, 13;
+  --festival, 17;
+  --fiesta, 142;
+  --work at, 144;
+  --ruins, 148.
+  Mixes, 112, 398;
+  --first veiw of, 13;
+  --tragedy, 18;
+  --land of, 22;
+  --life, 23;
+  --roads, 31.
+  Mixtec, 115, 139;
+  --boy, 397;
+  --language, 140;
+  --planter, 204.
+  mogote, 78, 81.
+  mole, 222.
+  money--Guatemalan, 51.
+  monkey's comb, 340.
+  Montezuma, 250, 260.
+  moon influences young, 217.
+  moonstone, 64.
+  Mora--Senora, 278.
+  moral=mulberry, 246, 259.
+  Morrison--Stanton, 389.
+  mosquitoes, 289.
+  moss, 273;
+  --crimson, 214;
+  --gray, 232, 277;
+  yellow, 199, 214.
+  mounds, 116.
+  moving stone, 349.
+  mulada, 387.
+  mule--purchase, 15;
+  --accident, 33;
+  --trouble by, 44;
+  --trouble with, 52;
+  --gives out, 53;
+  --reported dead, 117.
+  muleteer--affectionate, 179.
+  munecos, 246, 250, 258, 261, 268, 269.
+  Murcio--Don, 369.
+  Murcio--Guillermo, 129, 131, 136.
+  Museo Yucateco, 301.
+  music--of the Candelaria, 24;
+  --at Los Reyes, 91.
+
+  Nabor--Don, 98.
+  nacimiento, 195.
+  nagual, 166.
+  names of one river, 251.
+  Negrete, 95.
+  los negritos, 82.
+  Nehuatzen, 84.
+  Nenton, 49, 52.
+  New Year--celebration, 82;
+  --gifts, 339.
+  night-blindness, 164.
+  night-travel, 172.
+  night-watch, 170.
+  Nochixtlan, 120.
+  norther, 21, 22, 33, 158, 294, 326, 327, 393.
+  nublina, 232, 233, 261, 272.
+
+  Oaxaca, 4, 6, 15, 112.
+  obsidian, 240.
+  ocellated turkey, 318.
+  Ocosingo, 375.
+  Ocotopec (Mixe), 153, 154,
+  --(Mixtec), 112.
+  oleander, 174.
+
+  Once Pueblos, 98;
+  --ride through, 102.
+  operation proposed, 136.
+  orchids, 23, 27, 44, 126, 154, 199, 201, 207, 212, 232, 248.
+  organo cactus, 18.
+  Orozco y Berra, 131, 245, 264.
+  Otomis, 56, 242, 261, 397, 398;
+  --female type, 57:
+  --costume, 58;
+  --male types, 62.
+  ox-cart--travel, 334, 336, 337, 338, 340;
+  --accident, 341.
+  ox played out, 347.
+  Ozuluama, 274, 278;
+  --Jefe, of 276.
+
+  Pacheco--Anselmo, viii, 115, 168, 184.
+  Pacific, 37, 43, 112, 132, 160, 165;
+  --coast--yellow fever, 329.
+  Padre--the, his story, 1;
+  --at Chila, 10;
+  --at Medellin, 14.
+  paganism surviving, 254, 269, 305, 307.
+  pahuatl, 245.
+  Pahuatlan, 242, 244.
+  Pahuatlan River, 242.
+  Palacios--Conrado, 351.
+  Palenque, 377.
+  palms, 277, 278, 296.
+  Pantepec, 247, 265;
+  costume, 267;
+  --houses, 268;
+  --women, 267.
+  Panuco, 283.
+  Panuco River, 274.
+  Papalo, 182, 198, 214.
+  papaya, 309.
+  parasitic fig, 340.
+  el Parian, 118.
+  Parracho, 81.
+  parrots, 41, 166, 262, 334.
+  Paso Real, 288, 289.
+  pastores, 72.
+  Patzcuaro, 84, 107.
+  pea-flower, 201.
+  Pearson Company, 326.
+  pebbles wedged by torrent, 266.
+  pelico, 367.
+  pemol, 287.
+  peonage, 45.
+  Peru tree--belief, 194.
+  piano, 208.
+  Pichataro, 84, 106.
+  pigeons, 219.
+  pigs, 377.
+  pilgrimage, 48.
+  Pimentel--Governor, 351.
+  pineapples, 361.
+  pines, 128, 182, 371.
+  pinguicula, 154.
+  pinolillos, 347.
+  los Pinos, 344, 345.
+  pinto, 47, 332, 353, 361.
+  pitahaya (cactus), 96, 216.
+  pito, 287, 358, 377.
+  plaster prepared, 135.
+  le Plongeon--Dr. A., 301.
+  polydactyly, 205.
+  Ponce; Padre, 70, 71, 72, 73.
+  population of Mexico, v.
+  Porfiria, Aztec cook, 286.
+  posole, 343, 379.
+  pottery, 102, 112, 127, 137, 332, 339.
+  pouch--netted, 367.
+  Powell--William D., viii, 56.
+  predictions dire, 374.
+  presidente--sleepy, 267;
+  --Zautla, 201.
+  priest--drunken, 145;
+  --ignorant, 4;
+  active, 234;
+  --gifts to, 123;
+  --reception of, 124.
+  priestess--pagan, 254.
+  prisoners, 368;
+  --of state, 354.
+  private cart, 345.
+  Progress, 295, 299, 320, 324.
+  Puebla, 283, 300, 330.
+  Pueblo Viejo, 274, 275.
+  pulque, 61, 119;
+  --country, 240.
+  puma, 41.
+  pumice, 128.
+  pygmy statue, 57.
+  pyramid, 303, 362.
+
+  quail, 306.
+  quarrel adjusted, 354.
+  quartz, 18.
+  Quechol--Romualdo, 188, 189, 191, 192, 194, 196.
+  Quezaltepec, 31, 155
+  quichiquemil, see costume.
+  Quiero--Senor, 13, 17.
+  Quiroga, 69, 70.
+
+  railroad--Yucatecan, 296, 303.
+  rain ceremonials, 271.
+  rain-god, 6.
+  rattle, 318.
+  Rau--Enrique, 385, 386, 390.
+  rebozos (Parracho), 81.
+  regidor perplexed, 162.
+  resting at summit, 373.
+  los Reyes, 90.
+  rheumatism cure, 330.
+  rhododendron, 22.
+  ridge in Yucatan, 306.
+  la Riviera, 291.
+  road ("rio blanca"), 219;
+  --dilapidated, 241.
+  roads--mixe, 156;
+  Zapotec, 177.
+  Robinson, A.A., ix.
+  robbery, 63.
+  rock-impressions, 196.
+  Rodriguez; Governor Pedro L., 247.
+  round houses, 131.
+  ruins (Tecomavaca), 186.
+
+  Sabina, 84, 106.
+  sacrifice, 252, 254.
+  salt, 373.
+  el Salto, 381, 389, 391.
+  San Antonio, 49.
+  San Antonio, 228;
+  --excitement at, 231.
+  San Bartolo (Hacienda), 19.
+  San Bartolo (Hidalgo), 261, 271;
+  --market, 262.
+  San Bartolo (Mixtec), 126.
+  San Bartolo (Zapotec), 176;
+  --costume, 177.
+  San Bartolome (Tzotzil), 49, 366.
+  San Bernardino, 232.
+  San Blas, 164.
+  San Carlos, 152, 177.
+  San Cristobal (Chiapas), 364, 365, 385.
+  San Estevan, 88.
+  San Francisco, 191.
+  San Geronimo (Mazatec), 232.
+  San Geronimo (Huaxtec), 288.
+  San Geronimo (Zapotec), 331, 332.
+  San Gregorio, 245, 268.
+  San Juan (Yucatan), 308, 309.
+  San Lorenzo; 14, 18.
+  San Lucas, 232, 235.
+  San Mateo del Mar, 168, 334.
+  San Miguel, 34, 157.
+  San Miguel (Chiapas), 344, 345.
+  San Nicolas, 260.
+  San Nicolas Panotla, 92, 397.
+  San Pablito, 246, 259;
+  --witchcraft, 257;
+  --paper, 259.
+  San Pablo el grande, 258, 261.
+  San Pedrito, 119.
+  San Pedro, 190.
+  San Pedro Soochiapan, 207;
+  --town-house, 208;
+  --public service, 209;
+  houses, 212.
+  San Sebastian, 364.
+  Sanchez--Padre, 364.
+  sandstone, 374, 377.
+  sand dollars, 327.
+  sandunga (song), 330.
+  Santa Ana, 188.
+  Santa Anita, 395.
+  Santa Fe de la Laguna, 69.
+  Santa Maria, 38, 160.
+  Santa Maria (Totonac), 250.
+  Santa Maria (Yucatan), 307.
+  Santa Maria Albarradas, 20.
+  Santa Maria Atlihuitzia, 195.
+  Santiago Guevea, 37, 158.
+  santocalli, 254.
+  Santo Domingo (Chiapas), 350.
+  Santo Domingo (Mixtec), 127.
+  sastun, 307, 310.
+  Sawapa, 89, 194.
+  schistose rock, 182.
+  school-teachers, 224.
+  scientific results of work, viii.
+  school at San Nicolas Panotla, 93.
+  scorpion, 394.
+  sea gulls, 290.
+  las Sedas, 116.
+  segundo of Zautla, 203, 204.
+  selaginella, 154.
+  Seler--Mrs., 331.
+  semi-domestication, 343.
+  sensitive plants, 201.
+  September 16, San Miguel's Day, 271.
+  shales, 377.
+  shaly-sandstone, 374.
+  silk, 235.
+  singing, 171, 192.
+  sister--loyal, 361.
+  slate, 20.
+  small-pox, 119, 194, 301, 321.
+  Smith--Lucius, 4, 15.
+  smuggling, 51.
+  snakes, 277, 307, 358.
+  snipe, 290.
+  soldiers, 43.
+  songs--Aztec, 192;
+  --Zapotec, 330.
+  spear-thrower, 75.
+  spinning, 58, 202.
+  spot-sacral--on Maya babies, 411.
+  stalagmite, 315.
+  Starr in Old Mexico, 405.
+  stations--railroad, 303.
+  stream-beds dry, 41.
+  stubbornness, 312.
+  subterranean streams, 373.
+  Suchiapa, 361.
+  sugar-making, 244, 249, 314,
+  --mill, 307
+  sunset, 192.
+  surviving paganism, 6, 395.
+  syenite, 43.
+  Syrian peddlers, 7.
+
+  Tamalin, 279, 281.
+  Tampico, 274.
+  Tanaquillo=Tanaco, 104, 105.
+  Tanatepec, 42.
+  Tanchitla, 251.
+  Tancoco, 281, 284;
+  --hats, 284;
+  --houses, 284.
+  Tangancicuaro, 98.
+  Tantima, 280, 282;
+  houses, 283, 286.
+  Tapachula, 373.
+  Tarascans, 68;
+  --trading, 85.
+  Tatarian--Bedros, viii.
+  Tecomavaca, 185.
+  Tecomavaca Viejo, 186.
+  Tehuacan, 8.
+  Tehuantepec, 39, 161, 328;
+  --name story, 165;
+  --yellow fever, 329.
+  Tehuantepec River, 173.
+  Tehuantepec women, 112;
+  --beauty, 39;
+  --versus Tuxtla Gutierrez, 352;
+  --dress, 40.
+  Tekax, 303, 305;
+  --hermita, 304;
+  --Jefe of, 304.
+  temascal, 191, 192, 283.
+  Tenango (Chiapas), 376;
+  --pottery, 377.
+  Tenango del Doria, 247, 260, 271.
+  Tenejapa, 366, 367, 371;
+  market, 372.
+  Teotitlan del Camino, 228, 229.
+  tepache, 148, 217.
+  Tepanapa, 200, 213.
+  Tepehuas, 247, 267;
+  --costume, 264.
+  Tepeyac, 395.
+  teponastl, 265.
+  Teposcolula, 139.
+  Tequixistlan, 174.
+  thatching, 41.
+  theatre, 103.
+  tiger=jaguar, or ocelotl, 307.
+  tiger-cat, 279.
+  Thompson--Edward, 318, 320.
+  three-part house, 88.
+  Tilantongo, 121.
+  tinajas, 119.
+  Titian--the, 73, 74.
+  titulo, 236.
+  Tlacolula, 142, 180.
+  Tlacotepec, 38, 160.
+  Tlacuilotepec, 246, 248, 249.
+  Tlaxcala, 85, 188, 192, 283.
+  Tlaxcalans, 397.
+  Tlaxcalteca (song), 192.
+  Tlaxco, 245.
+  Tlaxiaco, 128.
+  toro play, 324, 384.
+  toros, 142.
+  torrent-wash, 82.
+  Torres--Anastasia, 362.
+  Torres--Padre, 72.
+  tortillas, 339.
+  tortuga, 318, 377.
+  las Tortugas, 272.
+  Totolapa, 179.
+  Totonacs, 242, 247, 251, 265, 396;
+  --fishing, 266.
+  toucan, 44, 340, 348.
+  trade, 170, 235, 236.
+  tramp--American, 50, 52.
+  tree-ferns, 22, 54, 199, 273, 387.
+  trees protected, 297, 309.
+  la Trinidad, 390.
+  Triquis, 131, 398.
+  el Triunfo, 385, 386, 387, 388, 389.
+  tropical forest, 22, 37, 387.
+  troupe--comedy, 337.
+  tsupakwa, 75.
+  tufa, 50.
+  tufaceous deposits, 119, 139, 263.
+  Tulancingo, 239.
+  Tule, 17, 142;
+  --great tree at, 16.
+  Tumbala, 380, 384, 385, 389;
+  --boys delayed at, 388.
+  Tuxtla Gutierrez, 44, 331, 333, 335, 338, 346, 347, 350, 351 et, 357,
+376.
+  Tzendals, 366, 367, 378;
+  --dress, 372, 380;
+  --hair-dressing, 372.
+  Tzintzuntzan, 69, 73.
+  Tzotzils, 45, 366, 367;
+  --dress, 366;
+  --industrious, 366.
+
+  ucuares, 102.
+  ule, 269.
+  Union Hidalgo=Guvino, 333, 334, 335, 343.
+  United States--ideas regarding, 42.
+  Uruapan, 78;
+  --lacquer, 79;
+  --goitre, 79.
+
+  Valencia--Jefe, 178, 375.
+  Valley hot, 181.
+  Van Antwerp--A.L., ix.
+  Venta Colorado, 241.
+  Vera Cruz, 394.
+  Vice-consul (Solis), 299, 320.
+  los Viejos, 71.
+  view-extended, 362.
+  village crying, 65, 153.
+
+  wasp nests, 156.
+  watch-houses in fields, 120.
+  water birds, 277;
+  --doubtful, 341.
+  wayside selling, 76, 242.
+  wayside shrine, 28.
+  weaving, 50, 127, 138, 202, 211, 366.
+  wedding, 221, 236.
+  weighing, 170.
+  Werner, Mr., 331.
+  wheels--hot, 349.
+  whistles--pottery, 112.
+  Wilson, David A., viii.
+  wind-mills, 297.
+  witchcraft, 246, 256, 376;
+  --cave, 256.
+  women difficult subjects, 89, 132, 157, 162, 185, 268, 369, 381;
+  --easy   subjects, 235, 265, 285;
+  --of Tuxtla Gutierrez beautiful, 352;
+  --Zapotec, 339.
+  wool, 138.
+  work--nature of, vi;
+  --views regarding, 235;
+  --methods and difficulties, 61, 86, 122,
+  132, 144, 149, 183, 234, 312, 356.
+  wry-necks, 278.
+
+  xalama, 259.
+  Xalapa, 173.
+  Xaya, 307, 308, 309.
+  Xochihua, Sr., 245, 260.
+  xtoles, 317, 323.
+  Yajalon, 379, 381.
+  Yaqui, 396.
+  Yautepec, 375.
+  yellow fever, 301, 308, 316, 327, 328, 329, 393.
+  Yodocono, 120, 396.
+  Yucatan, 293, 294;
+  --aspect of, 296;
+  --dress, 297.
+
+  Zamora, 97.
+  Zanatepec, 42.
+  el Zapato, 219.
+  Zapote (hacienda), 346.
+  Zapotecs, 112, 338, 379, 397;
+  --wounded, 19;
+  --woman's dress, 34;
+  --family, 34;
+  --traders, 170;
+  --cook, 171;
+  --family, 176;
+  --songs, 330;
+  --painting, 330;
+  --expansion, 339.
+  Zautla--San Juan, 201.
+  Zinacantan, 364.
+  Ziracuaretaro, 77.
+  Zoques, 45, 351;
+  --beauty of women, 352;
+  --dress, 352;
+  --baby-carrying, 353;
+  --houses, 357.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's In Indian Mexico (1908), by Frederick Starr
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