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diff --git a/16035-h/16035-h.htm b/16035-h/16035-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..29d7ae5 --- /dev/null +++ b/16035-h/16035-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,2904 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Transitional//EN" + "https://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-transitional.dtd"> +<html> +<head> +<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1" /> +<title>The Project Gutenberg eBook of The Food of the Gods, by Brandon Head</title> + <style type="text/css"> +/*<![CDATA[ XML blockout */ +<!-- + p { margin-top: .75em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: .75em; + } + h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 { + text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ + clear: both; + } + hr { width: 33%; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + clear: both; + } + + table {margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;} + + body{margin-left: 15%; + margin-right: 15%; + line-height: 1.5 em; + } + + .linenum {position: absolute; top: auto; left: 4%;} /* poetry number */ + .blockquot{margin-left: 5%; margin-right: 10%;} + .pagenum {position: absolute; left: 92%; font-size: smaller; text-align: right;} /* page numbers */ + + .center {text-align: center;} + .right {text-align: right;} + + .caption {font-weight: bold;} + + .figcenter {margin: auto; text-align: center;} + + .figleft {float: left; clear: left; margin-left: 0; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-top: + 1em; margin-right: 1em; padding: 0; text-align: center;} + + .figright {float: right; clear: right; margin-left: 1em; margin-bottom: 1em; + margin-top: 1em; margin-right: 0; padding: 0; text-align: center;} + + .footnotes {border: dashed 1px;} + .footnote {margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-size: 0.9em;} + .footnote .label {position: absolute; right: 80%; text-align: right;} + .fnanchor {vertical-align: top; font-size: .8em; text-decoration: none; line-height: 0.5em;} + + .chemsub {vertical-align: sub; font-size: .8em; line-height: 0em;} + + hr.full { width: 100%; } + pre {font-size: 8pt;} + // --> + /* XML end ]]>*/ + </style> +</head> +<body> +<h1>The Project Gutenberg eBook, The Food of the Gods, by Brandon Head</h1> +<pre> +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at <a href = "https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a></pre> +<p>Title: The Food of the Gods</p> +<p> A Popular Account of Cocoa</p> +<p>Author: Brandon Head</p> +<p>Release Date: June 10, 2005 [eBook #16035]</p> +<p>Language: English</p> +<p>Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1</p> +<p>***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE FOOD OF THE GODS***</p> +<p> </p> +<h3>E-text prepared by Clare Boothby, Karen Dalrymple,<br /> + and the Project Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team<br /> + (https://www.pgdp.net)</h3> +<p> </p> +<hr class="full" /> +<h1><!-- Page -4 --><a name="Page_-4" id="Page_-4"></a>THE FOOD OF THE GODS</h1> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<div class="center">(<i>Θεω βρωμα</i>)</div> + +<h3>A POPULAR ACCOUNT OF COCOA</h3> + +<h4>BY</h4> + +<h2>BRANDON HEAD</h2> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<h6> +LONDON: R. BRIMLEY JOHNSON<br /> +4, ADAM STREET, ADELPHI, W.C.</h6> + +<h4>1903</h4> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><!-- Page -3 --><a name="Page_-3" id="Page_-3"></a> +<a name="c001" id="c001"></a><a href="images/c001.jpg"><img src="images/c001_thumb.jpg" width="500" height="308" alt="EAST INDIAN COOLIES ON A TRINIDAD CACAO ESTATE" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption">EAST INDIAN COOLIES ON A TRINIDAD CACAO ESTATE</span> +</div> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="CONTENTS" id="CONTENTS"></a>CONTENTS.</h2> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="TABLE OF CONTENTS"> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="2">CHAPTER</td><td>PAGE</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">I.</td><td align="left"><a href="#I_ITS_NATURE">ITS NATURE</a></td><td align="right">1</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">II.</td><td align="left"><a href="#II_ITS_GROWTH_AND_CULTIVATION">ITS GROWTH AND CULTIVATION</a></td><td align="right">25</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">III.</td><td align="left"><a href="#III_ITS_MANUFACTURE">ITS MANUFACTURE</a></td><td align="right">45</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">IV.</td><td align="left"><a href="#IV_ITS_HISTORY">ITS HISTORY</a></td><td align="right">71</td></tr> +<tr><td align="right">V.</td><td align="left"><a href="#V_ITS_SOURCES_AND_VARIETIES">ITS SOURCES AND VARIETIES</a></td><td align="right">91</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><i>Appendices:</i></td></tr> +<tr><td></td><td align="left"><a href="#APPENDIX_I">ANCIENT MANUFACTURE OF COCOA</a></td><td align="right">103</td></tr> +<tr><td></td><td align="left"><a href="#APPENDIX_II">BOURNVILLE WORKS SUGGESTION SCHEME</a></td><td align="right">106</td></tr> +<tr><td></td><td align="left"><a href="#APPENDIX_III">THE EARLY COCOA HOUSES</a></td><td align="right">109</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS_AND_MAPS" id="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS_AND_MAPS"></a><!-- Page -2 --><a name="Page_-2" id="Page_-2"></a>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS AND MAPS.</h2> + + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS AND MAPS"> +<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="2" align="right">PAGE</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#c001">EAST INDIAN COOLIES OF A TRINIDAD CACAO ESTATE (COLOURED)</a> </td><td align="right"><i>frontispiece</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g001">CEYLON, A HILL CACAO ESTATE</a></td><td align="right"><i>to face</i></td><td align="right">1</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g002">"MAKE A CUP OF COCOA IN PERFECTION"</a> (<i>see <a href="#Page_19">p. 19</a></i>)</td><td></td><td align="right">1</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g003">CACAO TREES, TRINIDAD</a></td><td align="right"><i>to face</i></td><td align="right">3</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g004">ANCIENT MEXICAN DRINKING CUPS</a></td><td colspan="2" align="right">4</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g005">"MOLINILLO," OR CHOCOLATE WHISK</a></td><td colspan="2" align="right">5</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g006">CACAO HARVEST, TRINIDAD</a></td><td align="right"><i>to face</i></td><td align="right">7</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g007">THE COCO-NUT PALM</a></td><td colspan="2" align="right">8</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g008">COCO-DE-MER</a></td><td colspan="2" align="right">9</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g009">LEAVES AND FLOWER OF THE CUCA SHRUB</a></td><td colspan="2" align="right">10</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g010">GATHERING CACAO: SANTA CRUZ, TRINIDAD</a></td><td align="right"><i>to face</i></td><td align="right">11</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g011">PURE DECORTICATED COCOA, MAGNIFIED</a></td><td colspan="2" align="right">12</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g012">ADULTERATED COCOA, MAGNIFIED</a></td><td colspan="2" align="right">13</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g060">HOW THE CACAO GROWS</a></td><td align="right"><i>to face</i></td><td align="right">17</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g014">CACAO CROP, TRINIDAD</a></td><td colspan="2" align="right">21</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g013">ANALYTICAL APPARATUS</a></td><td colspan="2" align="right">20</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#c002">CACAO PODS (COLOURED)</a></td><td align="right"><i>to face</i></td><td align="right">25</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><!-- Page -1 --><a name="Page_-1" id="Page_-1"></a><a href="#g015">CACAO HARVESTING</a></td><td colspan="2" align="right">25</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g016">CEYLON, NURSERY OF CACAO SEEDLINGS</a></td><td align="right"><i>to face</i></td><td align="right">27</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g017">SAMOA: CACAO IN ITS FOURTH YEAR</a></td><td align="center"> "</td><td align="right">29</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g018">YOUNG CACAO CULTIVATION WITH CATCH CROP</a></td><td align="center"> "</td><td align="right">30</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g019">PODS OF CACAO THEOBROMA</a></td><td colspan = "2" align="right">31</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g020">VARIETIES OF THE CACAO</a></td><td align="right"><i>to face</i></td><td align="right">32</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g021">THE HOME OF THE CACAO</a></td><td align="center"> "</td><td align="right">35</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g022">ORTINOLA, MARACAS, TRINIDAD</a></td><td align="center"> "</td><td align="right">36</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g023">GOULET AND WOODEN SPOON</a></td><td colspan="2" align="right">37</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g024">CUTLASSES</a></td><td colspan="2" align="right">37</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g025">CACAO DRYING IN THE SUN</a></td><td align="right"><i>to face</i></td><td align="right">39</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g026">LABOURERS' COTTAGE, CACAO ESTATE</a></td><td align="center"> "</td><td align="right">40</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g027">BASKETS OF CACAO ON PLANTAIN LEAVES</a></td><td colspan="2" align="right">41</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#c003">CACAO TREE AND SEEDLING (COLOURED)</a></td><td align="right"><i>to face</i></td><td align="right">43</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">BOURNVILLE:</td><td align="left"><a href="#g028">"THE FACTORY IN A GARDEN"</a></td><td align="center"> "</td><td align="right">45</td></tr> +<tr><td align="center" width="17%">" </td><td align="left"><a href="#g029">"ON ARRIVAL AT THE FACTORY"</a></td><td colspan="2" align="right">45</td></tr> +<tr><td align="center">" </td><td align="left"><a href="#g030">OFFICE BUILDINGS</a></td><td align="right"><i>to face</i></td><td align="right">47</td></tr> +<tr><td align="center">" </td><td align="left"><a href="#g031">CRICKET PAVILION</a></td><td align="center"> "</td><td align="right">49</td></tr> +<tr><td align="center">" </td><td align="left"><a href="#g032">GIRLS' DINING-HALL</a></td><td align="center"> "</td><td align="right">51</td></tr> +<tr><td align="center">" </td><td align="left"><a href="#g033">BOOT-SHELF ON STOOL</a></td><td align="right" colspan="2">53</td></tr> +<tr><td align="center">" </td><td align="left"><a href="#g034">THE DINNER HOUR</a></td><td align="right"><i>to face</i></td><td align="right">54</td></tr> +<tr><td align="center">" </td><td align="left"><a href="#g035">LABURNAM ROAD</a></td><td align="center"> "</td><td align="right">58</td></tr> +<tr><td align="center">" </td><td align="left"><a href="#g036">PACKING-ROOM</a></td><td align="center"> "</td><td align="right">60</td></tr> +<tr><td align="center">" </td><td align="left"><a href="#g037">SUGGESTION BOX</a></td><td align="right" colspan="2">62</td></tr> +<tr><td align="center">" </td><td align="left"><a href="#g038">LINDEN ROAD</a></td><td align="right"><i>to face</i></td><td align="right">63</td></tr> +<tr><td align="center">" </td><td align="left"><a href="#g039">FISHING POOL</a></td><td align="center"> "</td><td align="right">64</td></tr> +<tr><td align="center"><!-- Page 0 --><a name="Page_0" id="Page_0"></a>" </td><td align="left"><a href="#g040">ALMSHOUSES</a></td><td align="center"> "</td><td align="right">67</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#c004">SECTION OF A COCOA FACTORY (COLOURED)</a></td><td align="center"> "</td><td align="right">69</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g041">AMERICAN INDIAN WITH CHOCOLATE POT</a></td><td align="right" colspan="2">71</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g042">NATIVE AMERICANS PREPARING COCOA</a></td><td align="right"><i>to face</i></td><td align="right">72</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g043">A CACAO PLANTATION</a></td><td align="right" colspan="2">75</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g044">GRENADA: CACAO DRYING ON TRAYS</a></td><td align="right"><i>to face</i></td><td align="right">77</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g045">MEXICAN DRINKING-VESSELS AND WHISK</a></td><td colspan="2" align="right">78</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g046">CACAO TREE, TRINIDAD</a></td><td align="right"><i>to face</i></td><td align="right">80</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g047">MEXICAN COCOA WHISK</a></td><td align="right" colspan="2">83</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g048">WHITE'S COCOA HOUSE</a></td><td align="right"><i>to face</i> </td><td align="right">87</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#c005">CHART OF COCOA-PRODUCING COUNTRIES (COLOURED)</a></td><td align="right"><i>to face</i> </td><td align="right">91</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g049">SACKS OF CACAO BEANS</a></td><td align="center"> "</td><td align="right">91</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g050">MARACAS VALLEY, TRINIDAD</a></td><td align="center"> "</td><td align="right">92</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#c006">MAP OF TRINIDAD (COLOURED)</a></td><td align="center"> "</td><td align="right">95</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"> " <a href="#g051">GRENADA, BRITISH WEST INDIES</a></td><td align="center"> "</td><td align="right">96</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g052">CACAO ESTATE, GRENADA</a></td><td align="right"><i>to face</i></td><td align="right">96</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g053">MAP OF PRINCIPE</a></td><td align="right" colspan="2">97</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"> " <a href="#g054">S. THOMÉ</a></td><td align="right" colspan="2">98</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g055">CEYLON: CARTING CACAO TO RAIL</a></td><td> <i>to face</i> </td><td align="right">99</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g056">MAP OF CEYLON</a></td><td> </td><td align="right">99</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"> " <a href="#g057">SAMOA</a></td><td align="right" colspan="2">100</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g058">SAMOA, CLEARING FOR CACAO</a></td><td align="right"><i>to face</i></td><td align="right">100</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g059">MEXICAN GRINDING-STONE</a></td><td align="right" colspan="2">104</td></tr> +</table></div> +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 408px;"> +<a name="g001" id="g001"></a><img src="images/g001.jpg" width="408" height="600" alt="Ceylon: A Hill Cacao Estate." title="" /> +<span class="caption">Ceylon: A Hill Cacao Estate.</span> +</div> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="THE_FOOD_OF_THE_GODS" id="THE_FOOD_OF_THE_GODS"></a><!-- Page 1 --><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1"></a>"THE FOOD OF THE GODS."</h2> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="I_ITS_NATURE" id="I_ITS_NATURE"></a>I. ITS NATURE.</h2> + + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 219px;"> +<a name="g002" id="g002"></a><img src="images/g002.jpg" width="219" height="200" alt="Pitcher, cup, and whisk" title="" /> +</div> + +<p>When one thinks of the marvellously nourishing and stimulating virtue +of cocoa, and of the exquisite and irresistible dainties prepared from +it, one cannot wonder that the great Linnæus should have named it +<i>theo broma</i>, "the food of the gods." No other natural product, with +the exception of milk, can be said to serve equally well as food or +drink, or to possess nourishing and <!-- Page 2 --><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2"></a>stimulating properties in such +well-adjusted proportions. Few, however, realize that in its +stimulating properties cocoa ranks ahead of coffee, though below tea. +As a matter of fact, the active principles of all three are alkaloids, +practically identical and equally effective.<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> Each derives its value +from its influence on the nervous system, which it stimulates, while +checking the waste of tissue, but the cocoa-bean provides in addition +solid food to replace wasted tissue. It is, indeed, so closely allied +in composition to pure dried milk, that in this respect there is +little to choose between an absolutely pure cocoa essence and the +natural fluid.<a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> It <!-- Page 3 --><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3"></a>is this which makes it invaluable as an +alternative food for invalids or infants.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 413px;"> +<a name="g003" id="g003"></a><img src="images/g003.jpg" width="413" height="600" alt="Cacao Trees, Trinidad." title="" /> +<span class="caption">Cacao Trees, Trinidad.</span> +</div> + +<p>An early English writer on this valuable product spoke truly when he +remarked: "All the American travellers have written such panegyricks, +that I should degrade this royal liquor if I should offer any; yet +several of these curious travellers and physicians do agree in this, +that the cocoa has a wonderful faculty of quenching thirst, allaying +hectick heats, of nourishing and fattening the body."</p> + +<p>A modern writer<a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> affords the same testimony in a more practical form +when he records that: "Cocoa is of domestic drinks the most +alimentary; it is without any exception the cheapest food that we can +conceive, as it may be literally termed meat and drink, and were our +half-starved artisans and over-worked factory children induced to +drink it, instead of the in-nutritious beverage called tea, its +nutritive qualities would soon develop themselves in their improved +looks and more robust condition."</p> + +<p><!-- Page 4 --><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4"></a>Such a drink well deserved the treatment it received at the hands of +the Mexicans to whom we are indebted for it. At the royal banquets +frothing chocolate was served in golden goblets with finely wrought +golden or tortoise-shell spoons. The froth in this case was of the +consistency of honey, so that when eaten cold it would gradually +dissolve in the mouth. Here is a luscious suggestion for twentieth +century housewives, handed to them from five hundred years ago!</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 327px;"> +<a name="g004" id="g004"></a><img src="images/g004.jpg" width="327" height="300" alt="ANCIENT MEXICAN DRINKING CUPS. (British Museum.)" title="" /> +<span class="caption">ANCIENT MEXICAN DRINKING CUPS.<br />(<i>British Museum.</i>)</span> +</div> + +<p>In health or sickness, infancy or age, at home <!-- Page 5 --><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5"></a>or on our travels, +nothing is so generally useful, so sustaining and invigorating. Far +better than the majority of vaunted substitutes for human milk as an +infant's food, to supplement what other milk may be available; +incomparable as a family drink for breakfast or supper, when both tea +and coffee are really out of place unless the latter is nearly all +milk; prepared as chocolate to eat on journeys, and in many other +ways, cocoa is a constant stand-by. Travelling in Eastern deserts on +mule-back, the present writer has never been without a tin of cocoa +essence if he could help it, as, whatever straits he might be put to +for provisions, so long as he had this and water, refreshment was +possible, and whenever milk was available he had command in his lonely +tent of a luxury unsurpassed in Paris or London. For the sustenance of +invalids he has found nothing better in the home-land than a nightly +cup of cocoa essence boiled with milk.</p> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 311px;"> +<a name="g005" id="g005"></a><img src="images/g005.jpg" width="311" height="75" alt="MOLINILLO (LITTLE MILL) OR CHOCOLATE WHISK." title="" /> +<span class="caption">MOLINILLO (LITTLE MILL) OR CHOCOLATE WHISK.</span> +</div> + +<p><!-- Page 6 --><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6"></a>Add to these experiences a love for the flavour which dates from +childhood, and his admiration for this "food of the gods" will be +appreciated, even if not sympathized in, by the few who have escaped +its spell. Its value in the eyes of practical as well as scientific +men is sufficiently demonstrated by its increasing use in naval and +military commissariats, in hospitals, and in public institutions of +all classes. In the British Navy, which down to 1830 consumed more +cocoa than the rest of the nation together, it is served out daily, +and in the army twice or thrice a week. Brillat Savarin, the author of +the "Physiologie du Goût," remarks: "The persons who habitually take +chocolate are those who enjoy the most equable and constant health, +and are least liable to a multitude of illnesses which spoil the +enjoyment of life."</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="g006" id="g006"></a><img src="images/g006.jpg" width="600" height="408" alt="A Cacao Harvest, Trinidad." title="" /> +<span class="caption">A Cacao Harvest, Trinidad.</span> +</div> + +<p>It certainly behoves us, therefore, to learn something more of such a +valuable article than may be gleaned from the perusal of an +advertisement, or the instructions on a packet containing it. There is +something more than<!-- Page 7 --><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7"></a> usually fascinating even in its history, in all +the tales regarding this treasure-trove of the New World, and in the +curious methods by which it has been treated. The story of its +discovery takes us into the atmosphere of the Elizabethan period, and +into the company of Cortes and Columbus; to learn of its cultivation +and preparation we are transported to the glorious realms of the +tropics, and to some of the most healthful centres of labour in the +old country—in one case to the model village of the English Midlands. +It is therefore an exceedingly pleasant round that lies before us in +investigating this subject, as well as one which will afford much +useful knowledge for every-day life.</p> + +<p>Before proceeding to a closer acquaintance with the origin of cocoa, +it may be well to clear the ground of possible misconceptions which +occasionally cause confusion.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 313px;"> +<a name="g007" id="g007"></a><img src="images/g007.jpg" width="313" height="500" alt="THE COCO-NUT PALM." title="" /></div> +<div class="center"> +<span class="caption">THE COCO-NUT PALM.</span> +</div> + +<p>First, there is the word "cocoa" itself, an unfortunate inversion of +the name of the tree from which it is derived, the cacao.<a name="FNanchor_4_4" id="FNanchor_4_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> A still +more <!-- Page 8 --><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8"></a>unfortunate corruption is that of "coco-nut" to "cocoa-nut," +which is altogether inexcusable. In this case it is therefore quite +correct to drop the concluding "a," as the coco-nut has nothing +<!-- Page 9 --><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9"></a>whatever to do with cocoa or the cacao, being the fruit of a palm<a name="FNanchor_5_5" id="FNanchor_5_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a> +in every way distinct from it, as will be seen from the accompanying +illustration.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 216px;"> +<a name="g008" id="g008"></a><img src="images/g008.jpg" width="216" height="250" alt="COCO-DE-MER." title="" /> +<span class="caption">COCO-DE-MER.</span> +</div> + +<p>The name "coco" is also applied to another quite distinct fruit, the +<i>coco-de-mer</i>, or "sea-coco," somewhat resembling a coco-nut in its +pod, but weighing about 28 lbs., and likewise growing on a lofty tree; +its habitat is the Seychelles Islands. Sometimes also, confusion +arises between the cacao and the coca or cuca,<a name="FNanchor_6_6" id="FNanchor_6_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a> <!-- Page 10 --><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10"></a>a small shrub like +a blackthorn, also widely cultivated in Central America, from the +leaves of which the powerful narcotic cocaine is extracted.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 377px;"> +<a name="g009" id="g009"></a><img src="images/g009.jpg" width="377" height="400" alt="LEAVES AND FLOWER OF THE CUCA SHRUB." title="" /> +<span class="caption">LEAVES AND FLOWER OF THE CUCA SHRUB.</span> +</div> + +<p>In the second place, the name "cocoa," which is strictly applicable +only to the pure ground nib or its concentrated essence, is sometimes +unjustifiably applied to preparations of cocoa with starch, alkali, +sugar, etc., which it would be more correct to describe as "chocolate +powder," chocolate being admittedly a confection of cocoa with other +substances and flavourings.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="g010" id="g010"></a><img src="images/g010.jpg" width="600" height="405" alt="Gathering Cacao: Santa Cruz, Trinidad." title="" /> +</div><div class="center"> +<span class="caption">Gathering Cacao: Santa Cruz, Trinidad.</span> +</div> + +<p>"Chocolate" is, therefore, a much wider term<!-- Page 11 --><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11"></a> than "cocoa," +embracing both the food and the drink prepared from the cacao, and is +the Mexican name, <i>chocolatl</i>, slightly modified, having nothing to do +with the word cacao, in Mexican <i>cacauatl</i>.<a name="FNanchor_7_7" id="FNanchor_7_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_7_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a> In the New World it was +compounded of cacao, maize, and flavourings to which the Spaniards, on +discovering it, added sugar, cinnamon, vanilla, and other ingredients, +such as musk and ambergris, cloves and nutmegs, almonds and +pistachios, anise, and even red peppers or chillies. "Sometimes," says +a treatise on "The Natural History of Chocolate," "China [quinine] and +assa [fœtida?]; and sometimes steel and rhubarb, may be added for +young and green ladies."</p> + +<p>In our own times it is unfortunately common to add potato-starch, +arrowroot, etc., to the cocoa, and yet to sell it by the name of the +pure article. Such preparations thicken in the cup, and are preferred +by some under the mistaken impression that this is a sign of its +containing more nutriment instead of less. Although not so wholesome, +there could be no objection to <!-- Page 12 --><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12"></a>these additions so long as the +preparations were not labelled "cocoa," and were sold at a lower +price.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 314px;"> +<a name="g011" id="g011"></a><img src="images/g011.jpg" width="314" height="300" alt="PURE DECORTICATED COCOA, HIGHLY MAGNIFIED." title="" /> +<span class="caption">PURE DECORTICATED COCOA, HIGHLY MAGNIFIED.</span> +</div> + +<p>Such adulteration is rendered possible by the presence in the bean of +a large proportion of fatty matter or cocoa-butter, which renders it +too rich for most digestions. To overcome this difficulty one or other +of two methods is available: (1) Lowering the percentage of fat by the +addition of starch, sugar, etc.; or (2) removing a large proportion of +the fat by some <!-- Page 13 --><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13"></a>extractive process; this latter method being in every +respect preferable to that first mentioned.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 322px;"> +<a name="g012" id="g012"></a><img src="images/g012.jpg" width="322" height="300" alt="COCOA ADULTERATED WITH ARROWROOT OR POTATO STARCH." title="" /> +<span class="caption">COCOA ADULTERATED WITH ARROWROOT OR POTATO STARCH.</span> +</div> + +<p>In order to avoid the expense and trouble consequent on the latter +process, some manufacturers add alkali, by which means the free fatty +acids are saponified, and the fat is held in a state of emulsion, thus +giving the cocoa a false appearance of solubility.</p> + +<p>Another effect of the alkali is to impart to the beverage a much +darker colour, from its action on the natural red colouring matter of +<!-- Page 14 --><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14"></a>the cocoa, this darkening being often taken, unfortunately, as +indicative of increased strength. On this account the presence of +added alkali should be regarded as an adulteration, unless notified on +the package in which the cocoa is contained.</p> + +<p>A more subtle treatment with alkali for the same purpose is the +addition to the pulverized bean of carbonate of ammonia, or caustic +ammonia. This is afterwards volatilized by the application of heat. +Scents and flavourings are then added to disguise their smell and +taste.</p> + +<p>Besides these combinations of cocoa with starch, sugar, etc., and +cocoa treated with alkali, there are now found on the market mixtures +of cocoa with such substances as kola, malt, hops, etc., sold under +strange-sounding names, reminding one of the many mixtures that are +made up as medicines rather than food. While the substances thus +incorporated are of value in their place, they possess no virtues +which are absent from the pure cocoa, and cannot be in any way +considered an improvement of cocoa <!-- Page 15 --><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15"></a>as food. The sooner this practice +of drug taking under cover of diet comes to an end the better it will +be for the national health.</p> + +<p>Formerly Venetian red, umber, peroxide of iron, and even brick-dust, +were employed to produce a cheaper article, but modern science and +legislation combined have rendered such practices almost impossible. +As early as the reign of George III. an Act<a name="FNanchor_8_8" id="FNanchor_8_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_8_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a> was passed, providing +that, "if any article made to resemble cocoa shall be found in the +possession of any dealer, under the name of 'American cocoa' or +'English cocoa,' or any other name of cocoa, it shall be forfeited, +and the dealer shall forfeit £100." Yet this Act was allowed to become +so much a dead letter that in 1851 the <i>Lancet</i> published the analysis +of fifty-six preparations sold as "cocoa," of which only eight were +free from adulteration. In some of the "soluble cocoas," the +adulteration was as high as 65 per cent., potato starch in one case +forming 50 per cent. of the sample. The majority of the samples were +found to be coloured with mineral or <!-- Page 16 --><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16"></a>earthy pigments, and specimens +treated with red lead are on exhibition at South Kensington.</p> + +<p>The inclusion of the husk or shell in some of the cheaper forms of +chocolate is another reprehensible practice (strongly condemned), as +they do not possess the qualities for which the kernel or nib is so +highly prized. To prevent this practice it was enacted in 1770 that +the shells or husks should be seized or destroyed, and the officer +seizing them rewarded up to 20s. per hundredweight. From these a +light, but not unpalatable, table decoction is still prepared in +Ireland and elsewhere, under the designation of "miserables."</p> + +<p>Among other beverages which have from time to time been produced from +the cacao was a fermented drink much in vogue at the Mexican Court, to +which it appears from the accounts of the conquest that Montezuma was +addicted, as "after the hot dishes (300 in number) had been removed, +every now and then was handed to him a golden pitcher filled with a +kind of liquor made from cacao, which is very exciting." One variety, +called <i>zaca</i>, drunk by the Itzas, <!-- Page 17 --><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17"></a>consisted of cocoa mixed with a +fermented liquor prepared from maize; but a more harmless invention +was a drink composed of cocoa-butter and maize.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 421px;"> +<a name="g060" id="g060"></a><img src="images/g060.jpg" width="421" height="600" alt="How the Cacao Grows. (Showing Leaf, Flower, and +Fruit.)" title="" /> +<span class="caption">How the Cacao Grows.<br /> +(Showing Leaf, Flower, and Fruit.)</span> +</div> + +<p>There remain three forms in which pure cocoa may be prepared as a +beverage:</p> + +<p>1. <i>Cocoa-nibs.</i>—The natural broken segments of the roasted +cocoa-bean, after the shell has been removed, prepared for table as an +infusion by prolonged simmering.</p> + +<p>It is strange that this ridiculous and wasteful means is still in use +at all, as next to none of the valuable portions of the nib are +extracted. The quantity of matter removed by the hot water is so +small, that close upon 90 per cent, of the nourishing and feeding +constituents are left behind in the undissolved sediment, the +substances extracted being principally salts and colouring matters. +One can but suppose that the long habit of drinking an infusion from +coffee-beans and tea-leaves has fixed in the mind the erroneous idea +that the substance of the cocoa-bean is also valueless. The fact +remains, however, that it is still customary at <!-- Page 18 --><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18"></a>some hydropathic +establishments, and perhaps in a few other instances, for doctors to +order "nibs" for their patient, which may sometimes be accounted for +by injury having resulted from drinking one of the many "faked" cocoas +offered for sale; the order for "nibs" being a despairing effort to +obtain the genuine article.</p> + +<p>2. <i>Consolidated Nibs</i>—<i>i.e.</i>, cocoa-nibs ground between heated +stones, whence it flows in a paste of the consistency of cream, which, +when cool, hardens into a cake containing all the cocoa-butter. Cocoa +in this form (mixed with sugar before cooling) is served in the +British Navy—a somewhat wasteful and inconvenient practice, as when +stirred, the excess of fat at once floats to the top of the cup, and +is generally removed with a spoon, to make the drink more appetising.</p> + +<p>3. <i>Cocoa Essence.</i>—This is the same article as No. 2, with about 60 +per cent, of the natural butter removed; consequently the proportion +of albuminous and stimulating elements is greatly increased. It is +prepared instantly by pouring <!-- Page 19 --><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19"></a>boiling water upon it, thus forming a +light beverage with all the strength and flesh-forming constituents of +the decorticated bean.<a name="FNanchor_9_9" id="FNanchor_9_9"></a><a href="#Footnote_9_9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a></p> + +<p>Chemical analysis of cacao-nibs and cocoa essence shows them to +contain on an average:</p> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="Chemical analysis of cacao-nibs and cocoa essence"> +<tr><td> </td><td colspan="2" align="center">Cacao-nibs.</td><td colspan="2" align="center">Cocoa Essence.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Cocoa-butter</td><td align="right">50 </td><td align="left">parts.</td><td align="right">30</td><td align="left">parts.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Albuminoid substances</td><td align="right">16 </td><td align="left"> "</td><td align="right">22</td><td align="left"> "</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Carbohydrates (sugar, starch, and digestible cellulose)</td><td align="right">21 </td><td align="left"> "</td><td align="right">30</td><td align="left"> "</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Theobromine</td><td align="right">1.5</td><td align="left"> "</td><td align="right">2</td><td align="left"> "</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Salts</td><td align="right">3.5</td><td align="left"> "</td><td align="right">5</td><td align="left"> "</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Other constituents</td><td align="right">8 </td><td align="left"> "</td><td align="right">11</td><td align="left"> "</td></tr> +<tr><td></td><td align="left" colspan="2">———</td><td align="left" colspan="2">———</td></tr> +<tr><td></td><td align="right">100 </td><td></td><td align="right">100</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>The <i>cocoa-butter</i> when clarified is of a pale yellow colour, and as +it melts at about 90° F. it is of great value for <!-- Page 20 --><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20"></a>pharmaceutical +purposes, especially as it only becomes rancid when subjected to +excessive heat and light, as to the direct rays of the sun.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 343px;"> +<a name="g013" id="g013"></a><img src="images/g013.jpg" width="343" height="300" alt="ANALYTICAL APPARATUS." title="" /> +<span class="caption">ANALYTICAL APPARATUS.</span> +</div> + +<p>The <i>albuminoid</i> or <i>nitrogenous constituents</i> will be seen to form +about a sixth of the whole nib, or more than a fifth of the cocoa +essence, and to their presence is due the fact that absolutely pure +cocoa is such a remarkable flesh-former.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="g014" id="g014"></a><img src="images/g014.jpg" width="600" height="404" alt="Cacao Crop, Trinidad." title="" /> +<span class="caption">Cacao Crop, Trinidad.</span> +</div> + +<p><!-- Page 21 --><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21"></a>The <i>carbohydrates</i>, producing warmth and fat, are also important food +substances, the proportion of which, while forming about a fifth of +the whole bean, rises to close upon a third of the essence.</p> + +<p>Cocoa also contains a <i>volatile oil</i>, from which it derives its +peculiar and delicious aroma.</p> + +<p>Thus <i>nearly nine-tenths of the cacao-bean may be assimilated by the +digestive organs</i>, while three-fourths of tea and coffee are thrown +away as waste. For the same bulk, therefore, cocoa is said to yield +thirteen times the nutriment of tea, and four and a half times that of +coffee. Its value as a substitute for mother's milk has already been +alluded to, but may well be emphasized by a quotation from a paper +read before the Surgical Society of Ireland in 1877 by one of its +Fellows, Mr. Faussett:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"Without presuming to pass any judgment on the many artificial + substitutes which, on alleged chemical <!-- Page 22 --><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22"></a>and scientific + principles, have from time to time been pressed forward under + the notice of the profession and the public to take the place + of mother's milk, I beg to call attention to a very cheap and + simple article which is easily procurable—viz., cocoa, and + which, <i>when pure and deprived of an excess of fatty matter</i>, + may safely be relied on, as cocoa in the natural state abounds + in a number of valuable nutritious principles, in fact, in + every material necessary for the growth, development, and + sustenance of the body."</p></div> + +<p>After giving some remarkable cases of children being restored from +"the last stage of exhaustion" by its use, and "continued through the +whole period of infancy," with the effect of their becoming fine, +healthy children, he concluded by saying:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"I beg therefore respectfully to commend cocoa, as an article + of infant's food, to the notice of my professional brethren, + especially those who, holding office under the Poor Laws, have + such large and extensive opportunities of testing its value."</p></div> + +<p>As a beverage for mothers or nurses cocoa is recommended by Dr. Milner +Fothergill, in his work on "The Food we Eat," in preference to +<!-- Page 23 --><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23"></a>porter, stout or ale, an opinion now becoming generally adopted. It +may, therefore, be regarded as the indispensable, all-round nursery +food, if not the constant stand-by of the family.</p> + +<p>That it is as nutritious for old as well as young we have an +interesting proof in the fact that the first Englishman born in +Jamaica, Colonel Montague James, who lived to the age of 104, took +scarcely any food but cocoa and chocolate for the last thirty years of +his life. For athletes and all who desire the development of the +muscular tissues, its use is most beneficial. Professor Cavill, in his +celebrated swim from Southampton to Portsmouth, and his nearly +successful attempt to swim across the English Channel, considered it +to be the most concentrated and sustaining food he could use for that +trying test of endurance.</p> + +<p>In his "Treatise on Food and Dietetics," Dr. Pavy remarks that:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"Containing, as pure cocoa does, twice as much nitrogenous + matter, and twenty-five times as much fatty matter as wheaten + flour, with a notable <!-- Page 24 --><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24"></a>quantity of starch, and an agreeable + aroma to tempt the palate, it cannot be otherwise than a + valuable alimentary material. It has been compared in this + respect to milk. It conveniently furnishes a large amount of + agreeable nourishment in a small bulk, and, taken with bread, + will suffice, in the absence of any other food, to furnish a + good repast."</p></div> + +<p>Indeed, the value of cocoa as food for ordinary mortals as well as for +mythical beings cannot be better summed up than in the words of +Professor Lankester, Superintendent of the Food Collections at South +Kensington, who declares:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"It can hardly be regarded as a substitute for tea and coffee; + it is, in fact, a substitute for all other kinds of food, and + when taken with some form of bread, little or nothing else need + be added at a meal. The same may be said of chocolate."</p></div> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 282px;"> +<a name="c002" id="c002"></a><a href="images/c002.jpg"><img src="images/c002_thumb.jpg" width="282" height="450" alt="CACAO PODS" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption">CACAO PODS</span><br /> +</div> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> According to Drs. Playfair and Lankester: +</p> +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Tea</td><td>contains</td><td align="left">3</td><td align='left'>per cent.</td><td align="left">theine.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Coffee</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>1¾</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>caffeine.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Cocoa</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>2</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>theobromine.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>Probably the proportion of caffeine in coffee would be more correctly +stated as 1¼ per cent. Theine and caffeine are identical, but +theobromine (C<span class="chemsub">7</span>H<span class="chemsub">8</span>N<span class="chemsub">4</span>O<span class="chemsub">2</span>) differs from both in the greater +proportion of nitrogen which it contains.</p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> Dr. Johnson's analysis: +</p> +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td> </td><td align='center'>Flesh formers in<br />each hundred parts.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Dried milk</td><td align='center'>35</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Cocoa essence</td><td align='center'>34¾</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Cocoa-nibs</td><td align='center'>23</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Best French chocolates</td><td align='center'>11</td></tr> +</table></div> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> Mr. O.L. Symonds, "Commercial Products of the Vegetable +Kingdom."</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_4_4" id="Footnote_4_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> The <i>Cacao theobroma</i>. There are several other varieties +of cacao, but none of them produce the famous food.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_5_5" id="Footnote_5_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> The <i>Cocos nucifera</i>, or "nut-bearing coco."</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_6_6" id="Footnote_6_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_6_6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a> <i>Erythroxylon coca.</i></p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_7_7" id="Footnote_7_7"></a><a href="#FNanchor_7_7"><span class="label">[7]</span></a> Or, as otherwise written, <i>cacava quahuitl</i>.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_8_8" id="Footnote_8_8"></a><a href="#FNanchor_8_8"><span class="label">[8]</span></a> 10 George III., c. 10.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_9_9" id="Footnote_9_9"></a><a href="#FNanchor_9_9"><span class="label">[9]</span></a> To make cocoa in perfection, for three breakfast-cups: in +a quart jug (with rounded bottom and narrower neck by preference) mix +1½ dessert spoonfuls (¾ oz.) of Cocoa Essence with equal bulk of +powdered white sugar, and stir to a thin paste with a little boiling +water. Mix in an enamelled saucepan one breakfast-cup of milk with two +cups of water (cups to be about ¾ full), and boil with care. When on +the boil, pour this over the contents of the jug, and whisk vigorously +for a few seconds (see illustration, <a href="#Page_1">p. 1</a>). Serve to table without +delay. To make a richer drink, use equal parts of milk and water. To +ensure the beverage being served as hot as possible, it is desirable +to warm the jug before the cocoa is put into it. The effect of this +method of preparation is to impart to the cocoa a more mellow taste, +and to produce a deep froth on the surface, giving it a most +appetizing appearance. The thorough mixing to which the cocoa is +subjected also materially lessens the amount of sediment in the bottom +of the cup.</p></div> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="II_ITS_GROWTH_AND_CULTIVATION" id="II_ITS_GROWTH_AND_CULTIVATION"></a><!-- Page 25 --><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25"></a>II. ITS GROWTH AND CULTIVATION.</h2> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 273px;"> +<a name="g015" id="g015"></a><img src="images/g015.jpg" width="273" height="250" alt="Tools for cacao harvesting" title="" /> +</div> + +<p>Cocoa is now grown in many parts of the tropics, reference to which is +made in another chapter. The conditions, however, do not greatly vary, +and there are probably many lands in the tropical belt where it is yet +unknown that possess soil well suited to its extended cultivation.</p> + +<p>The cacao-tree grows wild in the forests of Central America, and +varieties have been found also in Jamaica and other West Indian +islands, <!-- Page 26 --><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26"></a>and in South America. It does not thrive more than fifteen +degrees north or south of the equator, and even within these limits it +is not very successfully grown more than 600 feet above the sea-level; +in many districts where sugar formerly monopolized the plains, it was +supposed that cocoa needed an altitude of at least 200 feet, but +experiments of planting on the old sugar estates and other low-lying +places are generally successful where the soil is good, as in +Trinidad, Cuba, and British Guiana. It has been found that the expense +saved in roads, labour, and transit on the level has been very +considerable in comparison with that incurred on some of the hill +estates.</p> + +<p>In appearance the cacao-tree is not greatly unlike one of our own +orchard trees, and trained by the pruning knife it grows similar in +shape to a well-kept apple tree, no very low boughs being left, so +that a man on horseback can generally pass freely down the long +glades. Left to nature, it will in good soil reach a height of over +twenty feet, and its branches will extend for ten feet from the +centre.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="g016" id="g016"></a><img src="images/g016.jpg" width="600" height="405" alt="Ceylon: Nursery of Cacao Seedlings in Baskets of +plaited Palm Leaf." title="" /> +<span class="caption">Ceylon: Nursery of Cacao Seedlings in Baskets of +plaited Palm Leaf.</span> +</div> + +<p><!-- Page 27 --><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27"></a>The best soil is that made by the decomposition of volcanic rock, so +that it is a common sight to find areas strewn with large boulders +turned into a cocoa plantation of great fertility; but the best trees +of all lie along the <i>vegas</i> which intersect the hills, where the soil +is deep, and the stream winding among the trees supplies natural +irrigation. The tree also grows well in loams and the richer marls, +but will not thrive on clay and other heavy soils.</p> + +<p>The cacao is one of the tenderest of tropical growths, and will not +flourish in any exposed position, for which reason large shade belts +are left along exposed ridges and other parts of a hill estate, thus +greatly reducing the total area under cultivation, in comparison with +an estate of equal extent on the level plains, where no shade belts +are necessary.</p> + +<p>The beans are planted either "at stake,"—when three beans are put in +round each stake, the one thriving best after the first year being +left to mature,—or "from nursery," whence, after a few months' growth +in bamboo or palm-leaf baskets, they are transplanted into the +clearing.</p> + +<p><!-- Page 28 --><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28"></a>The preparation of the land is the first and greatest expense; trees +have to be felled, and bush cut down and spread over the land, so that +the sun can quickly render it combustible. When all is clear, the +cacao is put in among a "catch crop" of vegetables (the cassava, +tania, pigeon-pea, and others), and frequently bananas, though, as +taking more nutriment from the soil, they are sometimes objected to. +But the seedling cacao needs a shade, and as it is some years before +it comes into bearing, it is usual to plant the "catch crop" for the +sake of a small return on the land, as well as to meet this need.</p> + +<p>In Trinidad, at the same time that the cacao<a name="FNanchor_10_10" id="FNanchor_10_10"></a><a href="#Footnote_10_10" class="fnanchor">[10]</a> is planted at about +twelve feet centres, large forest trees are also planted at from fifty +to sixty feet centres, to provide permanent shade. The tree most used +for this purpose is the <i>Bois Immortelle</i> (<i>Erythrina umbrosa</i>); but +others are also employed, and experiments are <!-- Page 29 --><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29"></a>now being made on some +estates to grow rubber as a shade tree. In recent clearings in Samoa, +trees are left standing at intervals to serve this end.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="g017" id="g017"></a><img src="images/g017.jpg" width="600" height="407" alt="Samoa: Cacao in its fourth Year." title="" /> +<span class="caption">Samoa: Cacao in its fourth Year.</span> +</div> + +<p>In Grenada, British West Indies, and some other districts, shade is +entirely dispensed with, and the trees are planted at about eight feet +centres, thus forming a denser foliage. By this means at least 500 +trees will be raised on an acre, against less than 300 in Trinidad, +the result showing almost invariably a larger output from the Grenada +estates. This practice is better suited to steep hillside plantations +than to those in open valleys or on the plains.</p> + +<p>The cacao leaves, at first a tender yellowish-brown, ultimately turn +to a bright green, and attain a considerable size, often fourteen to +eighteen inches in length, sometimes even larger. The tree is subject +to scale insects, which attack the leaf, also to grubs, which quickly +rot the limbs and trunks, this last being at one time a very serious +pest in Ceylon. If left to Nature the trees are quickly covered +lichen, moss, "vines," ferns, and innumerable <!-- Page 30 --><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30"></a>parasitic growths, and +the cost of keeping an estate free from all the natural enemies which +would suck the strength of the tree and lessen the crop is very great.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="g018" id="g018"></a><img src="images/g018.jpg" width="600" height="410" alt="Young Cultivation, with catch Crop of Bananas, Cassava, +and Tania: Trinidad." title="" /> +<span class="caption">Young Cultivation, with catch Crop of Bananas, Cassava, +and Tania: Trinidad.</span> +</div> + +<p>The cacao will bloom in its third year, but does not bear fruit till +its fourth or fifth. The flower is small, out of all proportion to the +size of the mature fruit. Little clusters of these tiny pink and +yellow blossoms show in many places along the old wood of the tree, +often from the upright trunk itself, and within a few inches of the +ground; they are extremely delicate, and a planter will be satisfied +if every third or fourth produces fruit. In dry weather or cold, or +wind, the little pods only too quickly shrivel into black shells; but +if the season be good they as quickly swell, till, in the course of +three or four months, they develop into full grown pods from seven to +twelve inches long. During the last month of ripening they are subject +to the attack of a fresh group of enemies—squirrels, monkeys, rats, +birds, deer, and others, some of them particularly annoying, as it is +often found that when but a small hole <!-- Page 31 --><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31"></a>has been made, and a bean or +so extracted, the animal passes on to similarly attack another pod; +such pods rot at once. Snakes generally abound in the cacao regions, +and are never killed, being regarded as the planter's best friends, +from their hostility to his animal foes. A boa will probably destroy +more than the most zealous hunter's gun.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;"> +<a name="g019" id="g019"></a><img src="images/g019.jpg" width="300" height="184" alt="PODS OF CACAO THEOBROMA." title="" /> +<span class="caption">PODS OF CACAO THEOBROMA.</span> +</div> + +<p>From its twelfth to its sixtieth year, or later, each tree will bear +from fifty to a hundred and fifty pods, according to the season, each +pod containing from thirty-six to forty-two beans. Eleven pods will +produce about a pound of cured beans, and the average yield of a large +estate will be, in some cases, four hundredweight <!-- Page 32 --><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32"></a>per acre, in +others, twice as much. The trees bear nearly all the year round, but +only two harvests are gathered, the most abundant from November to +January, known as the "Christmas crop," and a smaller picking about +June, known as the "St. John's crop." The trees throw off their old +leaves about the time of picking, or soon after; should the leaves +change at any other time, the young flower and fruit will also +probably wither.</p> + +<p>Of the many varieties of the cacao, the best known are the <i>criollo</i>, +<i>forastero</i>, and <i>calabacilla</i>. The <i>criollo</i> ("native") fruit is of +average size, characterized by a "pinched" neck and a curving point. +This is the best kind, though not the most productive; it is largely +planted in Venezuela, Columbia and Ceylon, and produces a bean light +in colour and delicate in flavour. The <i>forastero</i> ("foreign") pod is +long and regular in shape, deeply furrowed, and generally of a rough +surface. The <i>calabacilla</i> ("little calabash") is smooth and round, +like the fruit after which it is named. All varieties are seen in +bearing with red, yellow, purple, and sometimes green <!-- Page 33 --><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33"></a>pods, the colour +not being necessarily an indication of ripeness.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 403px;"> +<a name="g020" id="g020"></a><img src="images/g020.jpg" width="403" height="600" alt="Varieties of the Cacao." title="" /> +<span class="caption">Varieties of the Cacao.</span> +</div> + +<p>On breaking open the pod, the beans are seen clinging in a cluster +round a central fibre, the whole embedded in a white sticky pulp, +through which the red skin of the cacao-bean shows a delicate pink. +The pulp has the taste of acetic acid, refreshing in a hot climate, +but soon dries if exposed to the sun and air. The pod or husk is of a +porous, woody nature, from a quarter to half an inch thick, which, +when thrown aside on warm moist soil, rots in a day or two.</p> + +<p>Much has been written of life on a cocoa estate; and all who have +enjoyed the proverbial hospitality of a West Indian or Ceylon planter, +highly praise the conditions of their life. The description of an +estate in the northern hills of Trinidad will serve as an example. The +other industry of this island is sugar, in cultivating which the +coloured labourers work in the broiling sun, as near to the steaming +lagoon as they may in safety venture. Later on in the season the long +rows between the stifling <!-- Page 34 --><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34"></a>canes have to be hoed; then, when the time +of "crop" arrives, the huge mills in the <i>usine</i> are set in motion, +and for the longest possible hours of daylight the workers are in the +field, loading mule-cart or light railway with massive canes. In the +yard around the crushing-mills the shouting drivers bring their +mule-teams to the mouth of the hopper, and the canes are bundled into +the crushing rollers with lightning speed. The mills run on into the +night, and the hours of sleep are only those demanded by stern +necessity, until the crop is safely reaped and the last load of canes +reduced to shredded <i>megass</i> and dripping syrup.</p> + +<p>But upon the cocoa estate there is lasting peace. From the railway on +the plain we climb the long valley, our strong-boned mule or lithe +Spanish horse taking the long slopes at a pleasant amble, standing to +cool in the ford of the river we cross and re-cross, or plucking the +young shoots of the graceful bamboos so often fringing our path. +Villages and straggling cottages, with palm thatch and <i>adobe</i> walls, +are <!-- Page 35 --><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35"></a>passed, orange or bread-fruit shading the little garden, and +perhaps a mango towering over all. The proprietor is still at work on +the plantation, but his wife is preparing the evening meal, while the +children, almost naked, play in the sunshine.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="g021" id="g021"></a><img src="images/g021.jpg" width="600" height="402" alt="The Home of the Cacao. + +(One of Messrs. Cadburys' Estates, Maracas, Trinidad)" title="" /> +<span class="caption">The Home of the Cacao.<br /> +(<i>One of Messrs. Cadburys' Estates, Maracas, Trinidad.</i>)</span> +</div> + +<p>The cacao-trees of neighbouring planters come right down to the ditch +by the roadside, and beneath dense foliage, on the long rows of stems +hang the bright glowing pods. Above all towers the <i>bois immortelle</i>, +called by the Spaniards <i>la madre del cacao</i>, "the mother of the +cacao." In January or February the <i>immortelle</i> sheds its leaves and +bursts into a crown of flame-coloured blossom. As we reach the +shoulder of the hill, and look down on the cacao-filled hollow, with +the <i>immortelle</i> above all, it is a sea of golden glory, an +indescribably beautiful scene. Now we note at the roadside a plant of +dragon's blood, and if we peer among the trees there is another just +within sight; this, therefore, is the boundary of two estates. At an +opening in the trees a boy slides aside the long bamboos which form +the gateway, and a short canter along <!-- Page 36 --><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36"></a>a grass track brings us to the +open savanna or pasture around the homestead.</p> + +<p>Here are grazing donkeys, mules, and cattle, while the chickens run +under the shrubs for shelter, reminding one of home. The house is +surrounded with crotons and other brilliant plants, beyond which is a +rose garden, the special pride of the planter's wife. If the sun has +gone down behind the western hills, the boys will come out and play +cricket in the hour before sunset. These savannas are the beauty-spots +of a country clothed in woodland from sea-shore to mountain-top.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="g022" id="g022"></a><img src="images/g022.jpg" width="600" height="407" alt="Ortinola, Maracas, Trinidad." title="" /> +<span class="caption">Ortinola, Maracas, Trinidad.</span> +</div> + +<p>Next morning we are awaked by a blast from a conch-shell. It is 6.30, +and the mist still clings in the valley; the sun will not be over the +hills for another hour or more, so in the cool we join the labourers +on the mule-track to the higher land, and for a mile or more follow a +stream into the heart of the estate. If it is crop-time, the men will +carry a <i>goulet</i>—a hand of steel, mounted on a long bamboo—by the +sharp edges of which the pods are cut from the higher branches without +<!-- Page 37 --><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37"></a>injury to the tree. Men and women all carry cutlasses, the one +instrument needful for all work on the estate, serving not only for +reaping the lower pods, but for pruning and weeding, or "cutlassing," +as the process of clearing away the weed and brush is called.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<a name="g023" id="g023"></a><img src="images/g023.jpg" width="400" height="128" alt="GOULET AND WOODEN SPOON." title="" /> +<span class="caption">GOULET AND WOODEN SPOON.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 325px;"> +<a name="g024" id="g024"></a><img src="images/g024.jpg" width="325" height="149" alt="CUTLASSES." title="" /> +<span class="caption">CUTLASSES.</span> +</div> + +<p>Gathering the pods is heavy work, always undertaken by men. The pods +are collected from beneath the trees and taken to a convenient <!-- Page 38 --><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38"></a>heap, +if possible near to a running stream, where the workers can refill +their drinking-cups for the mid-day meal. Here women sit, with trays +formed of the broad banana leaves, on which the beans are placed as +they extract them from the pod with wooden spoons. The result of the +day's work, placed in panniers on donkey-back, is "crooked" down to +the cocoa-house, and that night remains in box-like bins, with +perforated sides and bottom, covered in with banana leaves. Every +twenty-four hours these bins are emptied into others, so that the +contents are thoroughly mixed, the process being continued for four +days or more, according to circumstances.</p> + +<p>This is known as "sweating." Day by day the pulp becomes darker, as +fermentation sets in, and the temperature is raised to about 140° F. +During fermentation a dark sour liquid runs away from the sweat-boxes, +which is, in fact, a very dilute acetic acid, but of no commercial +value. During the process of "sweating" the cotyledons of the +cocoa-bean, which are at first a purple colour and very compact in the +skin, <!-- Page 39 --><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39"></a>lose their brightness for a duller brown, and expand the skin, +giving the bean a fuller shape. When dry, a properly cured bean should +crush between the finger and thumb.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="g025" id="g025"></a><img src="images/g025.jpg" width="600" height="405" alt="Cacao Drying in the Sun, Maracas, Trinidad." title="" /> +<span class="caption">Cacao Drying in the Sun, Maracas, Trinidad.</span> +</div> + +<p>Finally the beans are turned on to a tray to dry in the sun. They are +still sticky, but of a brown, mahogany colour. Among them are pieces +of fibre and other "trash," as well as small, undersized beans, or +"balloons," as the nearly empty shell of an unformed bean is called. +While a man shovels the beans into a heap, a group of women, with +skirts kilted high, tread round the sides of the heap, separating the +beans that still hold together. Then the beans are passed on to be +spread in layers on trays in the full heat of the tropical sun, the +temperature being upwards of 140° F.<a name="FNanchor_11_11" id="FNanchor_11_11"></a><a href="#Footnote_11_11" class="fnanchor">[11]</a> When thus spread, the women +can readily pick out the foreign matter and undersized beans. Two or +three days will suffice to dry them, after which they are put in bags +for the markets of the world, and will keep with but very slight loss +of weight or aroma for a year or more.</p> + +<p><!-- Page 40 --><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40"></a>Between crops the labourers are employed in "cutlassing," pruning, +and cleaning the land and trees. Nearly all the work is in pleasant +shade, and none of it harder than the duties of a market gardener in +our own country; indeed, the work is less exacting, for daylight lasts +at most but thirteen hours, limiting the time that a man can see in +the forest: ten hours per day, with rests for meals, is the average +time spent on the estate. Wages are paid once a month, and a whole +holiday follows pay-day, when the stores in town are visited for +needful supplies. Other holidays are not infrequent, and between crops +the slacker days give ample time for the cultivation of private +gardens.</p> + +<p>Labourers from India are largely imported by the Government under +contract with the planters, and the strictest regulations are observed +in the matter of housing, medical aid, etc. At the expiration of the +term of contract (about six years) a free pass is granted to return to +India, if desired. Many, however, prefer to remain in their adopted +home, and become planters themselves, or continue to <!-- Page 41 --><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41"></a>labour on the +smaller estates, which are generally worked by free labour, as the +preparations for contracted labour are expensive, and can only be +undertaken on a large scale.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="g026" id="g026"></a><img src="images/g026.jpg" width="600" height="410" alt="Labourer's Cottage, Cacao Estate, Trinidad." title="" /> +<span class="caption">Labourer's Cottage, Cacao Estate, Trinidad. +<br /> +(Bread Fruit and Bananas.)</span> +</div> + +<p>The natives of India work on very friendly terms with the coloured +people of the islands, the descendants of the old African slaves, and +the cocoa estate provides a healthy life for all, with a home amid +surroundings of the most congenial kind.<a name="FNanchor_12_12" id="FNanchor_12_12"></a><a href="#Footnote_12_12" class="fnanchor">[12]</a></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<a name="g027" id="g027"></a><img src="images/g027.jpg" width="350" height="174" alt="BASKETS OF CACAO ON PLANTAIN LEAVES." title="" /> +<span class="caption">BASKETS OF CACAO ON PLANTAIN LEAVES.</span> +</div> + +<p>In other cocoa-growing countries processes vary somewhat. On the +larger estates artificial drying is slowly superseding the natural +method, <!-- Page 42 --><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42"></a>for though the sun at its best is all that is needed, a +showery day will seriously interfere with the process, even though the +sliding roof is promptly pulled across to keep the rain from the +trays.</p> + +<p>In Venezuela an old Spanish custom still prevails of sprinkling a fine +red earth over the beans in the process of drying; this plan has +little to recommend it, unless it be for the purpose of long storage +in warehouses in the tropics, when the "claying" may protect the bean +from mildew and preserve the aroma. In Ceylon it is usual to +thoroughly wash the beans after the process of fermentation, thus +removing all remains of the pulp, and rendering the shell more tender +and brittle. Such beans arrive on the market in a more or less broken +state, and it seems probable that they are more subject to +contamination owing to the thinness of the shell. The best "estate" +cocoa from Ceylon has a very bright, clear appearance, and commands a +high price on the London market; this cocoa is of the pure <i>criollo</i> +strain, light brown (pale burnt sienna) in colour.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 250px;"> +<a name="c003" id="c003"></a><a href="images/c003.jpg"><img src="images/c003_thumb.jpg" width="250" height="400" alt="CACAO TREE AND SEEDLING" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption">CACAO TREE AND SEEDLING</span> +</div> + +<p>The valleys of Trinidad and Grenada have <!-- Page 43 --><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43"></a>grown cocoa for upwards of a +hundred years, but up to the present time very little in the way of +manuring has been done beyond the natural vegetable deposits of the +forest. In many estates of recent years cattle have been quartered in +temporary pens on the hills, moving on month by month, with a large +central pen for the stock down on the savanna.</p> + +<p>The cocoa-beans are shipped to Europe in bags containing from one to +one and a half hundredweight, and are disposed of by the London +brokers nearly every Tuesday in the year at a special sale in the +Commercial Sale Room in Mincing Lane.</p> + +<p>The cacao-tree has sometimes been grown from seed in hot-houses in +this country, but always with difficulty, for not only must a mean +temperature of at least 80° F. be maintained, but the tree must be +shielded from all draught. Among the most successful are the trees +grown by Mr. James Epps, Jun., of Norwood, by whose kind permission +the accompanying sketches from life were made. Success has only +crowned his efforts after many years <!-- Page 44 --><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44"></a>of patient care. To grow a mere +plant was comparatively simple, but to produce even a flower needed +long tending, and involved much disappointment; while to secure +fruition by cross-fertilization was a still more difficult task, +accomplished in England probably on only one other occasion.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="g028" id="g028"></a><img src="images/g028.jpg" width="600" height="409" alt="Bournville: "The Factory in a Garden."" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Bournville: "The Factory in a Garden."</span> +</div> +<br /> +<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_10_10" id="Footnote_10_10"></a><a href="#FNanchor_10_10"><span class="label">[10]</span></a> For full information on the subject of planting, see +Simmond's "Tropical Agriculture" (Spon, London and New York); +Nicholl's "Tropical Agriculture" (Macmillan).</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_11_11" id="Footnote_11_11"></a><a href="#FNanchor_11_11"><span class="label">[11]</span></a> See plate facing <a href="#Page_77">p. 77</a>.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_12_12" id="Footnote_12_12"></a><a href="#FNanchor_12_12"><span class="label">[12]</span></a> See <a href="#c001"><i>frontispiece</i></a>.</p></div> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="III_ITS_MANUFACTURE" id="III_ITS_MANUFACTURE"></a><!-- Page 45 --><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45"></a>III. ITS MANUFACTURE.</h2> + + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 321px;"> +<a name="g029" id="g029"></a><img src="images/g029.jpg" width="321" height="300" alt="On Arrival at the Factory" title="" /> +</div> + +<p>Up to this point the operations described have taken place in the +lands where cacao is produced. To watch the further processes in its +development as an article of food, let us in imagination follow one of +the shiploads of cacao on its sea journey from the far tropics to one +of the countries of the old world, until the sacks of beans are +finally deposited at a cocoa factory. An English factory, that of +Messrs. Cadbury, <!-- Page 46 --><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46"></a>at Bournville, affords an excellent illustration of +its manufacture, not only because about a third of all the beans +imported into this country are treated there, but also because this +treatment is effected amid ideal surroundings. Half a century ago +Messrs. Cadbury Brothers employed but a dozen or twenty hands, and +until within the last twenty-six years the firm was established in the +town of Birmingham. The need for greater accommodation for the rapidly +growing business, and a desire to secure improved conditions for the +work-people, led to the removal of the factory to a distance of about +four miles south of the city. A number of cottages erected for the +work-people in those early days became the nucleus of a great scheme +which in the last few years has expanded into the model village of +Bournville, a name taken from the neighbouring Bourn stream. Year by +year the factory grew and developed, until the green hay-fields, with +the trout stream flowing through them, became gradually covered with +buildings. To-day the factory seems like a small town in itself, +intersected by streets, and <!-- Page 47 --><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47"></a>surrounded by its own railway. But the +greenness of the country clings wherever a chance is afforded, ivy and +other creepers adorning the brick walls, window boxes bright with +flowers, and trees planted here and there; for no opportunity has been +neglected of making the surroundings beautiful.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="g030" id="g030"></a><img src="images/g030.jpg" width="600" height="405" alt="Bournville Cocoa Works: Office Buildings." title="" /> +<span class="caption">Bournville Cocoa Works: Office Buildings.</span> +</div> + +<p>Taking train from the city, glimpses can be caught, as we near our +destination, of the pretty houses and gardens of the village, forming +a great contrast to the densely populated district of Stirchley on the +other side of the line. Stepping on to the station, we are greeted by +a whiff of the most delicious fragrance, which is quite enough of +itself to betray the whereabouts of the great factory lying beneath +us, of which from this point we have a fairly good bird's-eye view. +Down the station steps, and a few yards up the lane to the left, with +a playing field on one side, and on the other a plantation of +fir-trees almost hiding the red brick and timbered gables of the +office buildings, and we have arrived at the factory lodge. Looking +through the open door down a <!-- Page 48 --><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48"></a>vista of archways bowered in clematis +and climbing roses, with an alpine rock garden at each side of the +broad walk, we might almost imagine ourselves to be at the entrance to +some botanical gardens. But a glance at the thousands of check hooks +covering the inner wall of the lodge informs us that more than 2,400 +girls pass in and out every day. The men's lodge is at a separate +gate.</p> + +<p>Before entering the works, a few steps further along the road will +give us some idea of the many advantages gained by moving the factory +out into the country. Just opposite the lodge a sloping path leads to +the cycle-house, where some 200 machines are stored during work hours. +Beyond this, in the middle of a flower garden, stands the Estate +Office of the Bournville Village Trust, and in the background higher +up a girls' pavilion can be seen through the trees. Behind it stretch +asphalt tennis-courts and playing-fields, bordered by a belt of fine +old trees, under whose shade wind pretty shrubbery walks lined with +rustic seats. A passage under the road leads straight from <!-- Page 49 --><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49"></a>the +works into these beautiful grounds, and on a summer's day few prettier +sights could be found than the numbers of white-robed girls who stream +across in the dinner-hour to revel in the sunshine of the open fields, +or sit in groups beneath the shady trees, enjoying a picnic lunch. A +little further along the road the trees and the rhododendron bushes +sweep backwards, leaving an open space, where a smooth lawn reaches to +the front of a fine old mansion, for many years used as a home for +some fifty of the work-girls whose own homes are at a distance, or who +have no home at all. The fruit gardens and vineries belonging to +"Bournville Hall" are used for the benefit of work-people who are ill.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="g031" id="g031"></a><img src="images/g031.jpg" width="600" height="407" alt="Coronation Cricket Pavilion, Bournville." title="" /> +<span class="caption">Coronation Cricket Pavilion, Bournville.</span> +</div> + +<p>Turning back again, we find on the other side of the road a +magnificent pavilion, the Coronation gift of the firm to their +employees, which overlooks the broad level stretch of one of the +finest cricket grounds in the Midlands. Away in the hollow beyond, the +Bourn forms a picturesque, shady pool, part of which is used to make a +capital open-air swimming bath for <!-- Page 50 --><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50"></a>the men. In the rising background +are the pretty houses and the gardens of the model village. Still +retracing our steps, we now come to the original cottages built by the +firm. Plainer and less picturesque than those of more modern +construction, their air of comfort, and the creepers which cover many +of their walls, make them harmonize well with their surroundings. One +of them is now used as a youths' club, providing games, a circulating +library, and reading and lecture rooms. Another contains club rooms +for the office staff. In passing we catch sight of a fine swimming +bath for the girls.</p> + +<p>Through the lodge and under the clematis, a few steps bring us to the +private railway-station, which in size would do credit to many a town. +Here trucks are loaded with finished goods and despatched to their +various destinations. Every working day of the year a long train, +extending often in the busiest season to as many as forty truck-loads, +steams out of this station to scatter the productions of Bournville +over the face of the Earth. Close by the station we turn into the +offices, where <!-- Page 51 --><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51"></a>the fittings and general arrangement convey an air of +refined solidity according well with the goods produced.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="g032" id="g032"></a><img src="images/g032.jpg" width="600" height="402" alt="Girls' Dining Hall, Bournville." title="" /> +<span class="caption">Girls' Dining Hall, Bournville.</span> +</div> + +<p>Before proceeding to study the manufacture of cocoa essence and +chocolate from the bean as it is imported, it will be interesting to +see the careful provision that is made for the health and cleanliness +of the workers, for in connection with any food nothing is of greater +importance than the circumstances attending its preparation. A +gratuitous sick club is provided by the firm for the employees, +including the services of a doctor and three trained nurses. A special +retiring room, comfortably furnished, is provided for girls needing a +quiet hour's rest.</p> + +<p>We are taken into the girls' dining-hall, capable of seating over two +thousand at a time, fitted with benches, the backs of which are +convertible into table tops. The far end of the dining-hall leads into +the huge kitchen, to which the girls can bring their own dinners to be +cooked, or where they can buy a large variety of things at +coffee-house prices. Here again the health of the workers is carefully +studied. <!-- Page 52 --><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52"></a>Fruit is made a speciality, an experienced buyer being +employed to insure its better supply. A private dining-room is +provided for the forewomen.</p> + +<p>Returning to the dining-hall, we descend a flight of steps into the +spacious dressing-rooms, with vistas of wooden screens, filled on each +side with numbered hooks. Here every morning the thousands of girls +not only divest themselves of their outer garments, but change their +dresses for washing frocks of white holland. The material for these is +provided by the firm, free for the first, and afterwards at less than +cost price, and the girls are required to start work in a clean frock +every Monday morning. It will be seen at once how this helps them to +keep neat and respectable; their strong white washing frocks only +being soiled by their work, after which they change back into their +own unstained clothes, and turn out looking as great a contrast to the +usually pictured type of factory girl as can be imagined. The +forewomen also conform to this arrangement, but wear washing <!-- Page 53 --><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53"></a>dresses +of blue cotton to distinguish them from the girls. Round the walls of +this vast dressing-room hot-water pipes are placed, and over these are +shelves where on a rainy day wet boots can be deposited to dry. +Specially thoughtful is the provision of rubber snow-shoes, imported +from America for their use, and supplied under cost price. Beneath +each stool, too, is a shelf for heavy boots, which can be replaced in +the factory by slippers.</p> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 192px;"> +<a name="g033" id="g033"></a><img src="images/g033.jpg" width="192" height="300" alt="Boot-shelf on stool" title="" /> +</div> + +<p>Mention has already been made of the provision for illness or +accidents, and of the care shown in the many arrangements for +maintaining and improving the health and physical development of the +girls. Further evidence of this is found in the airy and well-lighted +work-rooms, from which funnels and exhaust fans collect and carry off +all dust, <!-- Page 54 --><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54"></a>and improve the ventilation, so that in spite of the +multitudinous operations in progress, the whole place is kept as +"spick and span" as a ship of the line. But another aggressive sign of +the firm's belief in the motto <i>mens sana in corpore sano</i> is the +presence of a lady whose whole time is devoted to the physical culture +of the girls. Trained in Swedish athletics, this lady and her +assistant undertake the teaching, not only of gymnastics, but of +swimming and numerous games. Every day drill classes are held, an +opportunity being thus provided for all the younger girls to attend a +half-hour's lesson twice a week.</p> + +<p>The result of all this thoughtful care is abundantly evident in the +general air of health and comfort which pervades the whole factory, +and in the bright faces which greet us at every turn, as we pass to +and fro among the busy workers in this monster hive.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="g034" id="g034"></a><img src="images/g034.jpg" width="600" height="405" alt="The Dinner Hour, Bournville." title="" /> +<span class="caption">The Dinner Hour, Bournville.</span> +</div> + +<p>Entering now, and turning into the private station, we see thousands +of sacks of the freshly-imported beans being transferred to the +neighbouring stores. The new arrivals <!-- Page 55 --><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55"></a>must first be sifted and picked +over to get rid of any that may be unsound, or of any foreign material +still remaining. This is accomplished by a sorting and winnowing +machine, which delivers by separate shoots the cleaned beans, graded +according to size, and the dust and foreign matter.</p> + +<p>A battery of roasters await the survivors of this operation, which are +automatically conveyed to the hoppers. High-pressure steam supplies +the requisite heat without waste or smoke, and as the huge drums +slowly rotate, experienced workmen, on whose judgment great reliance +is placed, carefully watch their contents, and decide when precisely +the right degree of roasting has been attained to secure the richest +aroma. Then they are passed through a cooling chamber, after which +they are in condition for "breaking down."</p> + +<p>This consists in cracking the shells of the beans, and releasing the +kernels or "nibs," from which the shells and dust are winnowed by a +powerful blast. It is accomplished by carrying the beans mechanically +to the cracking machine <!-- Page 56 --><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56"></a>at a considerable height, whence husks and +nibs are allowed to fall before the winnower: the separated nibs are +assorted according to size. Some of the shells find their way to the +Emerald Isle, to be used by the peasants for the weak infusion called +"miserables."</p> + +<p>Now comes the important process of grinding, performed between +horizontal mill-stones, the friction of which produces heat and melts +the "butter," while it grinds the "nibs" till the whole mass flows, +solidifying into a brittle cake when cold.</p> + +<p>The thick fluid of the consistency of treacle flowing from the +grinding-mills is poured into round metal pots, the top and bottom of +which are lined with pads of felt, and these are, when filled, put +under a powerful hydraulic press, which extracts a large percentage of +the natural oil or butter. The pressure is at first light, but as soon +as the oil begins to flow the remaining mass in the press-pot is +stiffened into the nature of indiarubber, and upon this it is safe to +place any pressure that is desired. As it is not advisable to extract +all the <!-- Page 57 --><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57"></a>butter possible, the pressure is regulated to give the +required result. In the end a firm, dry cake is taken from the press, +and when cool is ground again to the consistency of flour; this is the +"cocoa essence" for which the firm of Cadbury is so well known in all +parts of the world.<a name="FNanchor_13_13" id="FNanchor_13_13"></a><a href="#Footnote_13_13" class="fnanchor">[13]</a></p> + +<p>Between cocoa and chocolate there are essential differences. Both are +made from the cocoa nib, but whereas in cocoa the nibs are ground +separately, and the butter extracted, in chocolate sugar and +flavourings are added to the nib, and all are ground together into a +paste, the sugar absorbing all the superfluous butter. If good quality +cocoa is used, the butter contained in the nib is all that is needful +to incorporate sugar and nib into one soft chocolate paste for +grinding and moulding, but in the commoner chocolates extra cocoa +butter has to be added. It is a regrettable fact that some +unprincipled makers are tempted to use cheaper vegetable fats as +substitutes for the natural butter, but none of these are really +<!-- Page 58 --><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58"></a>palatable or satisfactory in use, and none of the leading British +firms are guilty of using such adulterants, or of the still more +objectionable practice of grinding cocoa-shells and mixing them with +their common chocolates.<a name="FNanchor_14_14" id="FNanchor_14_14"></a><a href="#Footnote_14_14" class="fnanchor">[14]</a></p> + +<p>Flavouring is introduced according to the object in view; vanilla is +largely employed in this country, though in France and Spain cinnamon +is used, and elsewhere various spices. Willoughby, in his "Travels in +Spain" (1664), writes:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"To every three and a half pounds of powder they add two pounds + of sugar, twelve Vanillos, a little Guiny pepper (which is used + by the Spaniards only), and a little Achiote<a name="FNanchor_15_15" id="FNanchor_15_15"></a><a href="#Footnote_15_15" class="fnanchor">[15]</a> to give a + colour. They melt the sugar, and then mingle all together, and + work it up either in rolls or leaves."</p> + +<p> Another writer says: "The usual proportion at Madrid to a + hundred kernels of cocoa is to add two grains of Chile pepper, + a handful of anise, as many <!-- Page 59 --><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59"></a>flowers—called by the natives + vinacaxtlides, or little ears—six white roses in powder, a pod + of campeche,<a name="FNanchor_16_16" id="FNanchor_16_16"></a><a href="#Footnote_16_16" class="fnanchor">[16]</a> two drachms of cinnamon, a dozen almonds and + as many hazel-nuts, with achiote enough to give it a reddish + tincture; the sugar and vanilla are mixed at discretion, as + also the musk and ambergris. They frequently work this paste + with orange water, which they think gives it a greater + consistence and firmness."</p></div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="g035" id="g035"></a><img src="images/g035.jpg" width="600" height="400" alt="Bournville Village: Laburnum Road." title="" /> +<span class="caption">Bournville Village: Laburnum Road.</span> +</div> + +<p>When the chocolate is sufficiently ground it is put into a stove to +attain the correct temperature, and is then passed on to a +moulding-table, where it is pressed into tin moulds, and shaken till +it settles. After passing through a refrigerating chamber, the +contents of these moulds are ready as cakes of hard chocolate for +putting up in the well-known blue "Mexican," or the dark-red "Milk," +packets.</p> + +<p>It would, of course, be interesting to proceed to an inspection of the +many processes involved in making all the dainties that are prepared +with chocolate, and of the numerous trades concerned in the production +of packages, boxes, and fancy cases, did space permit. Room after room +might be visited, bright in <!-- Page 60 --><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60"></a>the daylight, or equally well lighted by +electricity at night, humming with busy machines; some peopled with +girls—among whom only men wearing a certain badge on their arms are +allowed—some with men and boys, but all vibrating with a genial air +of content as well as of busy occupation. Suffice it to say that half +the handicrafts of the town seem represented in this centre of +industry, in every department of which order and cheerfulness reign +supreme. Each would require a chapter to do it justice, for everything +employed in packing seems to be made on the premises, and that, too, +on a system of piece-work paid for, not at the lowest possible price, +but on the basis of securing a satisfactory living wage to the average +worker. No wonder the faces around are bright, no wonder that openings +at the Bournville factory are in demand, and that long service for the +firm is the boast of so many of the employees. Among these, a little +band of about thirty still upholds the traditions of the old firm that +laid the foundations of the present company in the city of Birmingham.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="g036" id="g036"></a><img src="images/g036.jpg" width="600" height="403" alt="Packing Room, Bournville." title="" /> +<span class="caption">Packing Room, Bournville.</span> +</div> + +<p><!-- Page 63 --><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63"></a>The work hours are forty-eight each week, and the wages depend both +on age and length of service, no man of twenty-three years of age and +over twelve months' service receiving less than 24s. weekly. There are +no deductions for sick club or fines, the sick fund, as before stated, +being a free gift from the company. Offences and late time are entered +in a record book, and an opportunity is given to wipe off all past +records by two years' good service. The Athletic Club, with over 500 +voluntary subscribers, runs three cricket, four football, and two +hockey teams, besides bowling, tennis, swimming, and other sports. One +of the most interesting events of the Cricket Club is the annual match +with a team representing Messrs. Fry and Sons, of Bristol, the oldest +established cocoa firm in this country. In friendly opposition to the +"Bournville Club" are the teams drawn from the "Youths' Club," and +other outside organizations. A summer camp of over a hundred boys has +been successfully held at the seaside for some years past.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;"> +<a name="g037" id="g037"></a><img src="images/g037.jpg" width="300" height="269" alt="Suggestion Box" title="" /> +</div> + +<p>The recent introduction of the system of <!-- Page 64 --><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64"></a>suggestion-boxes throughout +the works has been a great success. All employees are invited to make +suggestions, which are dealt with each week by two committees, one for +the men and one for the girls. Prizes amounting to about £80 are +offered every half-year for the best suggestions. During the first +seven months of operation over 1,000 suggestions were received, a very +large percentage of which were found sufficiently useful to be +adopted. The result has been to draw all sections closer together, +as each feels sure of getting due credit for original ideas. Many +important alterations in organization and methods of working have been +carried into effect, entirely owing to this scheme.<a name="FNanchor_17_17" id="FNanchor_17_17"></a><a href="#Footnote_17_17" class="fnanchor">[17]</a></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="g038" id="g038"></a><img src="images/g038.jpg" width="600" height="403" alt="Bournville Village: Linden Road." title="" /> +<span class="caption">Bournville Village: Linden Road.</span> +</div> + +<p>In order to encourage thrift (at the same time insuring privacy), a +Savings Fund on a novel system has been working successfully for +several years at Bournville. The fund was opened in Jubilee year by +gifts of £1 to each employee who had been three years in the service +of the firm, and 10s. to those employed for a shorter time. Deposits +are received, and amounts withdrawn in the usual way during the year, +through collectors in each department, the depositors' cards being +called in quarterly for audit. At the end of each financial year, in +May, interest at the rate of four per cent. is added to the amount +standing to the credit of each depositor, and the whole amount paid +over to the Post Office Savings Bank. At this time also, Post Office +officials attend at the works, and enter the amounts to the credit of +each depositor, issuing new Post Office Savings books where necessary. +This system secures absolute privacy for the permanent savings, and +places the fund upon a secure basis. As some evidence that the scheme +is appreciated, it may be stated that the total balance transferred to +the Post Office Savings Bank has averaged over £3,200 per annum.</p> + +<p>While in the district of Bournville, the opportunity must not be lost +of becoming more closely acquainted with the village around the works. +Away beyond the factory stretches an estate of nearly 500 acres, set +apart for the purpose of "alleviating the evils which arise from the +insanitary and insufficient accommodation supplied to large numbers of +the working classes, and of securing to workers in factories some of +the advantages of outdoor village life, with opportunities for the +natural and healthful occupation of cultivating the soil." As yet only +some 450 houses have been erected, pretty, picturesque cottages all of +them, for the most part semi-detached, each on its sixth of an acre, +<!-- Page 65 --><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65"></a>more or less, housing in all a population of about 2,000.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="g039" id="g039"></a><img src="images/g039.jpg" width="600" height="405" alt="Fishing Pool, Bournville." title="" /> +<span class="caption">Fishing Pool, Bournville.</span> +</div> + +<p>It was compassion for the ill-housed work-people of Birmingham that +led Mr. George Cadbury, the founder of the village, to undertake so +splendid a task, and having accomplished it, he crowned it by making a +gift of the whole to the nation, placing its administration in the +hands of a Trust. In doing so he laid down ideal stipulations for its +development, and for the regulation of the villages which may in the +future be built out of the income of the Trust. The principal of these +are that factories or workshops shall never occupy more than one +fifteenth of the area; that no house shall occupy more than one-fourth +of the ground allotted to it; that in addition to wide roads and the +ample gardens thus secured, one-tenth of the area shall be reserved +for public open spaces for ever, parts of which are to be used as +children's playgrounds. At present no intoxicants are sold or prepared +on the estate, and if ever the trustees should see fit to permit this, +it is to be as a co-operative undertaking, the profits of which <!-- Page 66 --><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66"></a>shall +"be devoted to securing for the village community recreation and +counter-attraction to the liquor trade as ordinarily conducted."</p> + +<p>Such a scheme affords a model for public bodies tackling the housing +problem in earnest, and is fraught with great hopes for the future. +The annual income, nearly £6,000, is to be applied first to the +development of this estate, and subsequently to the purchase of +estates near Birmingham or other large towns, and the establishment of +new villages thereon. A most important feature is, that although the +rents are calculated to yield a fair return on the cost, including a +proportion of development expenses, they are so low that a five-roomed +cottage with bath and every convenience can be had for the rent of a +two-roomed hovel in the slums. About two-fifths of the householders +find employment in the cocoa works, the rest in the adjoining villages +or in Birmingham.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="g040" id="g040"></a><img src="images/g040.jpg" width="600" height="411" alt="Almshouse Quadrangle, Bournville." title="" /> +<span class="caption">Almshouse Quadrangle, Bournville.</span> +</div> + +<p>The gardens are a special feature, and before the houses are let, they +are laid out by the Trust, and planted with fruit trees. All are well +worked, and an average yield in vegetables <!-- Page 67 --><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67"></a>and fruit of nearly two +shillings a week has been found possible, equivalent to something like +£60 an acre—more than twelve times as much food as would be produced +if under pasturage. Two professional gardeners, with several men under +them, are employed to look after the gardening department, and they +are always ready to give any information or advice required by the +tenants, so that the cottage gardens may be cultivated to the utmost +profit. At present the public buildings consist of a village inn and +baths; a school is shortly to be erected. Building is being steadily +proceeded with, and although the development of the estate may be +somewhat slow at first, it will advance with growing rapidity as the +revenue increases. No wonder that there is an omnipresent air of +comfort and prosperity, or that the death-rate is only about eight per +thousand, in comparison with nineteen in the neighbouring city.</p> + +<p>No description of Bournville would be complete without a mention of +its picturesque alms-houses. Here a haven of rest is provided <!-- Page 68 --><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68"></a>for +some of those who, in their best years, have rendered faithful service +to the firm. Thirty-three independent houses, brick and stone built, +each with its own doorway to the quiet greensward, and its windows to +the sun, form an inviting, reposeful quadrangle. They were the last +gift of a life devoted to the interests of others, and the happiness +and peace which characterize them are fitting memorials of the late +Richard Cadbury, the elder of the two brothers who founded this great +industry, and who have in their lives been favoured to see such untold +blessing upon their labours.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 540px;"> +<a name="c004" id="c004"></a><a href="images/c004.jpg"><img src="images/c004_thumb.jpg" width="540" height="368" alt="Section of a Chocolate Factory." title="" /></a> +</div> + + +<h3><!-- Page 69 --><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69"></a>SECTION OF A CHOCOLATE FACTORY.</h3> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>The accompanying diagram of a chocolate factory is reproduced + by kind permission of the Berlin publishers of Dr. Paul + Zipperer's well-known work on "The Manufacture of Chocolate," + which contains much valuable information. The machinery + described is that of Messrs. Lehmann, of Dresden, one of the + largest makers on the Continent.</p></div> + +<p>By means of the lift (1) all the raw materials, sugar, cocoa, packing, +etc., are carried up to the store-rooms (2). Here are the machines for +cleansing and picking the raw cocoa-beans, which are fed into the +elevator boxes (3) above the cleansing machine (4), which frees them +from dust; they then pass to the continuous band (5) on which they are +picked over, and from which they fall into movable boxes (6). They are +thence transferred to the hoppers (7), and fed by opening a slide in +the hopper, into the roasting machine (8). The quantity contained in +the hoppers is sufficient to charge the roasting machine. When the +roasting is completed the cocoa is emptied into trucks (9), and +carried to the exhaust arrangement (10), where the beans are cooled +down, the vapour given off passing out into the open air. At the same +time the air of the roasting chamber is sucked out through the +funnel-shaped tube fitted to the cover. The roasted cocoa is then +passed to boxes (11), to be <!-- Page 70 --><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70"></a>conveyed by the elevator to the crushing +and cleansing machine (12). After being cleansed, the cocoa is carried +in trucks (13) to hoppers (14) by which it is fed into the mills (15) +on the lower floor. The sugar mill and sifting apparatus (26) placed +near the crushing and cleansing machines are also fed by a hopper from +above. Cocoa and sugar are now supplied to the mixing machine (16), to +be worked together before passing to the rolls (17) by which the final +grinding is effected. After passing once or more through the mill, the +finished chocolate mass is taken to the hot-room (18), where it +remains in boxes until further treated, after which it is taken to the +moulding-room. In the mixer (19) the mass acquires the consistency and +temperature requisite for moulding. The mass is then taken in lumps to +the dividing machine (20), and cut into pieces of the desired size and +weight. On the table (21) the moulds, lying upon boards, are filled +with chocolate and then taken to the shaking-table (22). By means of a +double lift (23) the moulded chocolate, still lying upon boards, is +conveyed to the cooling-room or cellar, in which there are benches or +frames (24) for receiving the moulds as they are slipped off the +boards. The cellar has to be cooled artificially, according to +situation. Adjoining the cellar is the wrapping-room (25), and further +on the warehouse. The goods so far finished are then taken by the lift +(1) to the rooms where they are packed for delivery.</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_13_13" id="Footnote_13_13"></a><a href="#FNanchor_13_13"><span class="label">[13]</span></a> For ancient processes see <a href="#APPENDIX_I">Appendix I.</a>, p. 103.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_14_14" id="Footnote_14_14"></a><a href="#FNanchor_14_14"><span class="label">[14]</span></a> "Chocolate is an article so disguised in the manufacture +that it is impossible to tell its purity or value. The only safeguard +is to buy that which bears the name of a reputable maker."—Chambers, +"Manual of Diet."</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_15_15" id="Footnote_15_15"></a><a href="#FNanchor_15_15"><span class="label">[15]</span></a> The heart-leaved bixa, or anotta.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_16_16" id="Footnote_16_16"></a><a href="#FNanchor_16_16"><span class="label">[16]</span></a> Log-wood.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_17_17" id="Footnote_17_17"></a><a href="#FNanchor_17_17"><span class="label">[17]</span></a> The regulations adopted are so interesting that a place +has been found for them in an <a href="#APPENDIX_II">Appendix</a> (p. 106).</p></div> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="IV_ITS_HISTORY" id="IV_ITS_HISTORY"></a><!-- Page 71 --><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71"></a>IV. ITS HISTORY.</h2> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 229px;"> +<a name="g041" id="g041"></a><img src="images/g041.jpg" width="229" height="273" alt="OLD DRAWING OF AN AMERICAN INDIAN, WITH CHOCOLATE-POT AND WHISK." title="" /> +<span class="caption">[<i>From Dufour.</i>]<br /> +OLD DRAWING OF AN AMERICAN INDIAN, WITH CHOCOLATE-POT AND WHISK.</span> +</div> +<p>Although now cultivated in many other tropical countries, the cacao +tree is one of the New World's rich gifts, first made known to our +ancestors by the venturesome Spaniards, who probably became acquainted +with its cultivation early in the sixteenth century, and spread the +knowledge derived from the Mexicans and the <!-- Page 72 --><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72"></a>inhabitants of Central +America to their other colonies. They found cacao a more veritable +mine of wealth than even the gold of which they procured such store. +It is indeed a curious coincidence that in those countries of gold the +cacao-beans were not only the form in which tribute was paid, but +themselves passed as currency. On account of their use for this +purpose by the Mexicans, Peter Martyr styled them <i>amygdalæ +pecuniariæ</i>—"pecuniary almonds"—exclaiming: "Blessed money, which +exempts its possessors from avarice, since it cannot be hoarded or +hidden underground!"</p> + +<p>Joseph Acosta tells us that "the Indians used no gold nor silver to +trafficke in or buy withall ... and unto this day (1604) the custom +continues amongst the Indians, as in the province of Mexico, instede +of money they use cacao." The Aztecs also made use of cacao in this +way, as many as 8,000 beans being legal tender—rather a task, one +would imagine, for the money-changers.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="g042" id="g042"></a><img src="images/g042.jpg" width="600" height="397" alt="Native Americans Preparing and Cooking Cocoa. + +Ogibe's "America," 1671." title="" /> +<span class="caption">Native Americans Preparing and Cooking Cocoa. +<br /> +<i>Ogibe's "America," 1671.</i></span> +</div> + +<p>In Nicaragua this practice was so general that "none but the rich and +noble could afford <!-- Page 73 --><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73"></a>to drink it, as it was literally drinking money." +A rabbit sold there for ten beans, "a tolerably good slave" for a +hundred. Slaves must, however, have been at a discount just then, if +the silver value of the beans was no greater than when Thomas Candish +wrote in 1586: "These cacaos serve amongst them both for meat and +money ... 150 of them being as good as a Real of Plate"—about 6d. "A +bag," of unknown size, "was worth ten crowns." One of the storehouses +of Montezuma, the last of the old independent Mexican Chieftains,<a name="FNanchor_18_18" id="FNanchor_18_18"></a><a href="#Footnote_18_18" class="fnanchor">[18]</a> +was found by the Spaniards to contain as much as 40,000 loads of this +precious commodity, in wicker baskets which six men could not grasp.</p> + +<p>John Ogilby, writing in 1671 of the produce of America, says:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"But much more beneficial is the cacao, with which Fruit New + Spain drives a great Trade; nay, serves for Coin'd Money. When + they deliver a Parcel of Cacao, they tell them by five, thirty, + and a hundred. Their Charity to the Poor never exceeds above + one Cacao-nut. The chief Reason for which this Fruit is so + highly esteem'd, is for the Chocolate, which is <!-- Page 74 --><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74"></a>made of the + same, without which the Inhabitants (being so us'd to it) are + not able to live. Before the Spaniards made themselves Masters + of Mexico, no other Drink was esteem'd but that of the Cacao; + none caring for Wine, notwithstanding the Soil produces Vines + everywhere in great Abundance of itself."</p></div> + +<p>From contemporary travellers' records are to be gleaned many such +strange facts and stranger fancies regarding the precious bean and its +products, some of them extremely quaint and curious. Bancroft, for +instance, writing of the Maya races of the Pacific, tells us that +"before planting the seed they held a festival in honour of their +gods, Ekchuah, Chac, and Hobnil, who were their patron deities. To +solemnize it, they all went to the plantation of one of their number, +where they sacrificed a dog having a spot on its skin the colour of +cacao. They burned incense to their idols, after which they gave to +each of the officials a branch of the cacao plant." Palacio also tells +us that "the Pipiles, before beginning to plant, gathered all seeds in +small bowls, after performing certain rites with them before the idol, +among which <!-- Page 75 --><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75"></a>was the drawing of blood from different parts of the body +with which to anoint the idol;" and, as Ximinez states, "the blood of +slain fowls was sprinkled over the land to be sown."</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<a name="g043" id="g043"></a><img src="images/g043.jpg" width="350" height="276" alt="[From Bontekoe." title="" /> +<span class="caption">[<i>From Bontekoe.</i>]<br /> +A CACAO PLANTATION.<br /> +(<i>One of the earliest illustrations of this subject known, showing the +shade trees, and beans drying.</i>)</span> +</div> +<p>The idea that secret rites were necessary at the planting of cacao to +counteract their ignorance of its requirements was long current also +among the superstitious Spaniards, who similarly accounted for the +early failures of the English, as witness the following amusing +<!-- Page 76 --><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76"></a>extract from a contribution to the <i>Harleian Miscellany</i> in 1690:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"Cocoa is now a commodity to be regarded in our colonies, + though at first it was the principal invitation to the peopling + of Jamaica, for those walks the Spaniards left behind them + there, when we conquered it, produced such prodigious profit + with so little trouble that Sir Thomas Modiford and several + others set up their rests to grow wealthy therein, and fell to + planting much of it, which the Spanish slaves had always + foretold would never thrive, and so it happened: for, though it + promised fair and throve finely for five or six years, yet + still at that age, when so long hopes and cares had been wasted + upon it, withered and died away by some unaccountable cause, + though they imputed it to a black worm or grub, which they + found clinging to its roots.... And did it not almost + constantly die before, it would come into perfection in fifteen + years' growth and last till thirty, thereby becoming the most + profitable tree in the world, there having been £200 sterling + made in one year of an acre of it. But the old trees, being + gone by age and few new thriving, as the Spanish negroes + foretold, little or none now is produced worthy the care and + pains in planting and expecting it. Those slaves gave a + superstitious reason for its not <!-- Page 77 --><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77"></a>thriving, many religious + rites being performed at its planting by the Spaniards, which + their slaves were not permitted to see. But it is probable + that, where a nation as they removed the art of making + cochineal and curing vanilloes into their inland provinces, + which were the commodities of those islands in the Indians' + time, and forbade the opening of any mines in them for fear + some maritime nation might be invited to the conquering of + them, so they might, likewise, in their transplanting cocoa + from the Caracas and Guatemala, conceal wilfully some secret in + its planting from their slaves, lest it might teach them to set + up for themselves by being able to produce a commodity of such + excellent use for the support of man's life, with which alone + and water some persons have been necessitated to live ten weeks + together, without finding the least diminution of health or + strength."</p></div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="g044" id="g044"></a><img src="images/g044.jpg" width="600" height="410" alt="Grenada, B.W.I.: Samaritan Estate + +(Showing trays which slide on rails; the iron covers slide over the +whole in case of wet.)" title="" /> +<span class="caption">Grenada, B.W.I.: Samaritan Estate +<br /> +(Showing trays which slide on rails; the iron covers slide over the +whole in case of wet.)</span> +</div> + +<p>However valuable this last quality rendered the newly-discovered +drink, its method of preparation and the unwonted spices employed +prevented its ready adoption abroad, although the Spaniards and +Portuguese took to it more kindly than some of the northern races. +Joseph Acosta, writing of Mexico and Peru, says:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"The cocoa is a fruite little less than almonds, yet more<!-- Page 78 --><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78"></a> + fatte, the which being roasted hath no ill taste. It is so much + esteemed among the Indians (yea, among the Spaniards), that it + is one of the richest and the greatest traffickes of New Spain. + The chief use of this cocoa is in a drincke which they call + chocholaté, whereof they make great account, foolishly and + without reason: for it is loathsome to such as are not + acquainted with it, having a skumme or frothe that is very + unpleasant to taste, if they be not well conceited thereof. Yet + it is a drincke very much esteemed among the Indians, whereof + they feast noble men as they passe through their country. The + Spaniards, both men and women, that are accustomed to the + country, are very greedy of this chocholaté. They say they make + diverse sortes of it, some hote, some colde, and put therein + much of that chili: yea, they make paste thereof, the which + they say is good for the stomacke, and against the catarre."</p></div> + +<p><!-- Page 79 --><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79"></a>But this was not the only medicinal property attributed to "the food +of the gods," for the Aztecs used to prescribe as a cure for +diarrhœa and dysentery a potion prepared of cacao mixed with the +ground bones of their giant ancestors, exhumed in the mountains. Such +a very active principle was sure to make its enemies too, and several +amusing attacks have survived to witness their own refutation. It was +regarded by some as a violent inflamer of the passions, which should +be prohibited to the monks; for, as one writer puts it, "if such an +interdiction had existed, the scandal with which that holy order has +been branded might have proved groundless." As late as 1712, after its +use had become established in this country, the mentor of the +<i>Spectator</i> writes: "I shall also advise my fair readers to be in a +particular manner careful how they meddle with romances, chocolates, +novels, and the like inflamers, which I look upon as very dangerous to +be made use of during this great carnival" (the month of May).</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<a name="g045" id="g045"></a><img src="images/g045.jpg" width="350" height="210" alt="MEXICAN DRINKING-VESSELS, ROLLING-PIN AND WHISK." title="" /> +<span class="caption">MEXICAN DRINKING-VESSELS, ROLLING-PIN AND WHISK.</span> +</div> + +<p>Some accounted for the assumed ill-effects of <!-- Page 80 --><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80"></a>cocoa to its admixture +with sugar in the form of chocolate, for a few years earlier a London +doctor had declared that "coffee, chocolate, and tea were at the first +used only as medicines while they continued unpleasant, but since they +were made delicious with sugar they are become poison." Similarly, an +anonymous assailant in a pamphlet "Printed at the Black Boy, over +against St. Dunstan's Church, in Fleet Street," exclaims:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"As for the great quantity of sugar which is commonly put in, + it may destroy the native and genuine temper of the chocolate, + sugar being such a corrosive salt, and such an hypocritical + enemy of the body. Simeon Pauli (a learned Dane) thinks sugar + to be one cause of our English consumption, and Dr. Willis + blames it as one of our universal scurvies: therefore, when + chocolate produces any ill effects, they may be often imputed + to the great superfluity of its sugar."</p></div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 418px;"> +<a name="g046" id="g046"></a><img src="images/g046.jpg" width="418" height="600" alt="Cacao Tree, Trinidad." title="" /> +<span class="caption">Cacao Tree, Trinidad.</span> +</div> + +<p>In the New World fewer questions were raised, and the only +conscientious objection appears to have been felt by a Bishop of +Chiapa, whose performance of the Mass was disturbed <!-- Page 81 --><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81"></a>by its use. The +story is told in Gaze's "New Survey of the West Indies," published in +1648, and is worth repetition. It is well to bear in mind his +information that "two or three hours after a good meal of three or +four dishes of mutton, veal or beef, kid, turkeys or other fowles, our +stomackes would bee ready to faint, and so wee were fain to support +them with a cup of chocolatte."</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"The women of that city, it seems, pretend much weakness and + squeamishness of stomacke, which they say is so great that they + are not able to continue in church while the mass is briefly + hurried over, much lesse while a solemn high mass is sung and a + sermon preached, unles they drinke a cup of hot chocolatte and + eat a bit of sweetmeats to strengthen their stomackes. For this + purpose it was much used by them to make their maids bring them + to church, in the middle of mass or sermon, a cup of + chocolatte, which could not be done to all without a great + confusion and interrupting both mass and sermon. The Bishop, + perceiving this abuse, and having given faire warning for the + omitting of it, but all without amendment, thought fit to fix + in writing upon the church dores an excommunication against all + such as should <!-- Page 82 --><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82"></a>presume at the time of service to eate or + drinke within the church. This excommunication was taken by + all, but especially by the gentlewomen, much to heart, who + protested, if they might not eate or drinke in the church, they + could not continue in it to hear what otherwise they were bound + unto. But none of these reasons would move the Bishop. The + women, seeing him so hard to be entreated, began to slight him + with scornefull and reproachfull words: others slighted his + excommunication, drinking in iniquity in the church, as the + fish doth water, which caused one day such an uproar in the + Cathedrall that many swordes were drawn against the Priests, + who attempted to take away from the maids the cups of + chocolatte which they brought unto their mistresses, who at + last, seeing that neither faire nor foule means would prevail + with the Bishop, resolved to forsake the Cathedrall: and so + from that time most of the city betooke themselves to the + Cloister Churches, where by the Nuns and Fryers they were not + troubled....</p> + +<p> "The Bishop fell dangerously sick. Physicians were sent for far + and neere, who all with a joynt opinion agreed that the Bishop + was poisoned. A gentlewoman, with whom I was well acquainted, + was commonly censured to have prescribed such a cup of + chocolatte to be ministered by the Page, which poisoned him who + so rigorously had forbidden <!-- Page 83 --><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83"></a>chocolatte to be drunk in the + church. Myself heard this gentlewoman say that the women had no + reason to grieve for him, and that she judged, he being such an + enemy to chocolatte in the Church, that which he had drunk in + his house had not agreed with his body. And it became + afterwards a Proverbe in that country: 'Beware of the + chocolatte of Chiapa!' ... that poisoning and wicked city, + which truly deserves no better relation than what I have given + of the simple Dons and the chocolatte-confectioning Doñas."</p></div> + +<p>It was only natural that the nuns and friars of the cloister churches +should raise no objection to this practice of chocolate drinking, for +we read further that two of these cloisters were "talked off far and +near, not for their religious practices, but for their skill in making +drinkes which are used in those parts, the one called chocolatte, +another atolle. Chocolatte is (also) made up in boxes, and sent not +only to Mexico, but much of it yearly transported to Spain."</p> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 180px;"> +<a name="g047" id="g047"></a><img src="images/g047.jpg" width="180" height="400" alt="MODERN MEXICAN COCOA WHISK WITH LOOSE RINGS. + +(Brought home by the author.)" title="" /> +<span class="caption">MODERN MEXICAN COCOA WHISK WITH LOOSE RINGS. +<br /> +(<i>Brought home by the author.</i>)</span> +</div> + +<p><!-- Page 84 --><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84"></a>The introduction of cocoa into Europe, indeed, as well as its +cultivation for the European market, is due rather to the Jesuit +missionaries than to the explorers of the Western Hemisphere. It was +the monks, too, who about 1661 made it known in France. It is curious, +therefore, to notice the contest that at one time raged among +ecclesiastics as to whether it was lawful to make use of chocolate in +Lent; whether it was to be regarded as food or drink. A consensus of +opinion on the subject, published in Venice in 1748, states that</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"Among the first Probabilist Theologians who undertook to write + entire Treatises and to collect all the possible reasons as to + whether the Indian beverage (chocolate) could agree with + European fasting, was Father Tommaso Hurtado. He employed the + whole of the Tenth Treatise of the second volume of the 'Moral + Resolutions,' printed in 1651, and added thereto an Appendix of + more chapters.</p> + +<p> "Father Diana found reason for acquitting the consciences of + those who, in time of fasting, should drink chocolate. Father + Hurtado, more courageous withal, and more benign than Diana, + does not speak of this treatise in order to investigate the + law; the nature of <!-- Page 85 --><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85"></a>fasting admits drinking without eating. + Therefore consumers are, without the help of casuists, troubled + themselves and afflicted, when in Lent they empty chocolate + cups. Excited on the one hand by the pungent cravings of the + throat to moisten it, reproved on the other by breaking their + fast, they experience grave remorse of conscience; and, with + consciences agitated and torn with drinking the sweet beverage, + they sin. Under the guidance of these skilful theologians, the + remorse aroused by natural and Divine light being blunted, + Christians drink joyfully. For all agree that he will break his + fast who eats any portion of chocolate, which, dissolved and + well mixed with warm water, is not prejudicial to keeping a + fast. This is a sufficiently marvellous presupposition. He who + eats 4 ozs. of exquisite sturgeon roasted has broken his fast; + if he has it dissolved and prepared in an extract of thick + broth, he does not sin."</p></div> + +<p>As for the introduction of cocoa into this country, the contemporary +Gaze tells us that</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"Our English and Hollanders make little use of it when they + take a prize at sea, as, not knowing the secret virtue and + quality of it for the good of the stomach, of whom I have heard + the Spaniards say, when we have taken a good prize, a ship + laden <!-- Page 86 --><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86"></a>with cocoa, in anger and wrath we have hurled overboard + this good commodity, not regarding the worth of it."</p></div> + +<p>About the time of the Commonwealth, however, the new drink began to +make its way among the English, and the <i>Public Advertiser</i> of 1657 +contains the notice that "in Bishopsgate Street, in Queen's Head +Alley, at a Frenchman's house, is an excellent West India drink, +called chocolate, to be sold, where you may have it ready at any time, +and also unmade, at reasonable rates." These rates appear to have been +from 10s. to 15s. a pound, a price which made chocolate, rather than +coffee, the beverage of the aristocracy, who flocked to the +chocolate-houses soon to spring up in the fashionable centres. Here, +records a Spanish visitor to London, were to be found such members of +the polite world as were not at the same time members of either House. +The chocolate-houses were thus the forerunners of our modern clubs, +and one of them, "The Cocoa Tree," early the headquarters of the +Jacobite party, became subsequently recognised as the club of the +<!-- Page 87 --><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87"></a>literati, including among its members such men as Garrick and Byron. +White's Cocoa House, adjoining St. James' Palace, was even better +known, eventually developing into the respectable White's Club, though +at one time a great gambling centre.<a name="FNanchor_19_19" id="FNanchor_19_19"></a><a href="#Footnote_19_19" class="fnanchor">[19]</a></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 506px;"> +<a name="g048" id="g048"></a><img src="images/g048.jpg" width="506" height="600" alt="White's Club, on left of St. James's Palace." title="" /> +<span class="caption">White's Club, on left of St. James's Palace.<br /> +(<i>From a Drawing of the time of Queen Anne.</i>)</span> +</div> + +<p>A little later the "Indian Nectar," recommended by a learned doctor on +account of "its secret virtue," was to be obtained of "an honest +though poor man" in East Smithfield at 6s. 8d. a pound, or the +"commoner sort at about half the price," so that it was getting within +more general reach. Subsequently the following advertisement appeared +regarding a patented preparation of cocoa "now sold at 4s. 9d. per +pound."</p> + +<p>"N.B.—The curious may be supplied with this superfine chocolate, that +exceeds the finest sold by other makers, plain at 6s., with vanillos +at 7s. To be sold for ready money only at Mr. Churchman's Chocolate +Warehouse, at Mr. John Young's, in St. Paul's Churchyard, London, A.D. +1732."</p> + +<p><!-- Page 88 --><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88"></a>The opportunities of increasing the revenue from the growing +favourite were not lost sight of, and till 1820 its spread was checked +by a duty of 1s. 6d. a pound, collected by the sale of stamped +wrappers for each pound, half-pound, or quarter-pound, "neither more +nor less," just as in the case of patent medicines at present.</p> + +<p>In the reign of George III. the duty on colonial cocoa was raised to +1s. 10d. a pound, that on such as the East India Company imported to +2s., and that on all other sources of supply to 3s. In the early years +of the last century the cocoa imported from any country not a British +possession was charged no less than 5s. 10d. a pound as excise, with +an extra Custom's duty of from 2½d. to 4¾d. on entry for home +consumption. This restrictive tariff was by degrees relaxed, but it is +only since 1853 that the duty has been reduced to 2d. a pound on the +manufactured article, or 1d. a pound on the raw material.</p> + +<p>While the heavy duties were in force, all houses in which the +manufacture or sale of cocoa was carried on were compelled to have +<!-- Page 89 --><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89"></a>the fact stated over their doors, under penalty of £200 from the +dealer having more than six pounds in his possession (who had to be +licensed), and £100 from the customer encouraging the illicit trade. +No less than £500 as fine and twelve months in the county gaol were +inflicted for counterfeiting the stamp or selling chocolate without a +stamp. To prevent evasion by selling the drink ready made, it was +enacted under George I., whose physicians were extolling its medicinal +virtues, that</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"Notice shall be given by those who make chocolate for private + families, and not for sale, three days before it is begun to be + made, specifying the quantity, etc., and within three days + after it is finished the person for whom it is made shall enter + the whole quantity on oath, and have it duly stamped."</p></div> + +<p>Nothing is more eloquent of the growing favour in which cocoa is held +in this country, as its real value becomes more generally appreciated, +than the remarkable progressive increase of the quantities imported +during recent years, as will be seen from the table appended. These +<!-- Page 90 --><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90"></a>quantities doubled between 1880 and 1890, and have since more than +doubled again.</p> + +<h3>TABLE SHOWING THE QUANTITIES OF CACAO CLEARED FOR HOME CONSUMPTION +SINCE 1880.</h3> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="0" summary="QUANTITIES OF CACAO CLEARED FOR HOME CONSUMPTION +SINCE 1880."> +<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td align='center'>lbs.</td></tr> +<tr><td>1880</td><td> </td><td align='right'>10,556,159</td></tr> +<tr><td>1881</td><td></td><td align='right'>10,897,795</td></tr> +<tr><td>1882</td><td></td><td align='right'>11,996,853</td></tr> +<tr><td>1883</td><td></td><td align='right'>12,868,170</td></tr> +<tr><td>1884</td><td></td><td align='right'>13,976,891</td></tr> +<tr><td>1885</td><td></td><td align='right'>14,595,168</td></tr> +<tr><td>1886</td><td></td><td align='right'>15,165,714</td></tr> +<tr><td>1887</td><td></td><td align='right'>15,873,698</td></tr> +<tr><td>1888</td><td></td><td align='right'>18,227,017</td></tr> +<tr><td>1889</td><td></td><td align='right'>18,464,164</td></tr> +<tr><td>1890</td><td></td><td align='right'>20,224,175</td></tr> +<tr><td>1891</td><td></td><td align='right'>21,599,860</td></tr> +<tr><td>1892</td><td></td><td align='right'>20,797,283</td></tr> +<tr><td>1893</td><td></td><td align='right'>20,874,995</td></tr> +<tr><td>1894</td><td></td><td align='right'>22,441,048</td></tr> +<tr><td>1895</td><td></td><td align='right'>24,484,502</td></tr> +<tr><td>1896</td><td></td><td align='right'>24,523,428</td></tr> +<tr><td>1897</td><td></td><td align='right'>27,852,152</td></tr> +<tr><td>1898</td><td></td><td align='right'>32,087,084</td></tr> +<tr><td>1899</td><td></td><td align='right'>34,013,812</td></tr> +<tr><td>1900</td><td></td><td align='right'>37,829,326</td></tr> +<tr><td>1901</td><td></td><td align='right'>42,353,724</td></tr> +<tr><td>1902</td><td></td><td align='right'>45,643,784</td></tr> +</table></div><br /> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 540px;"> +<a name="c005" id="c005"></a><a href="images/c005.jpg"><img src="images/c005_thumb.jpg" width="540" height="333" alt="Map and Chart of Cocoa-Producing Countries" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption">Map and Chart of Cocoa-Producing Countries</span> +</div><br /> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_18_18" id="Footnote_18_18"></a><a href="#FNanchor_18_18"><span class="label">[18]</span></a> Not an "Emperor," as reported by his conquerors.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_19_19" id="Footnote_19_19"></a><a href="#FNanchor_19_19"><span class="label">[19]</span></a> See <a href="#APPENDIX_III">Appendix III</a>.</p></div> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="V_ITS_SOURCES_AND_VARIETIES" id="V_ITS_SOURCES_AND_VARIETIES"></a><!-- Page 91 --><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91"></a>V. ITS SOURCES AND VARIETIES.</h2> + + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 300px;"> +<a name="g049" id="g049"></a><img src="images/g049.jpg" width="300" height="271" alt="Sacks of cacao beans" title="" /> +</div> + +<p>Guayaquil, in the republic of Ecuador, on the west coast of South +America, produces the largest output in the world. This cacao has a +bold bean and a fine flavour, and is rich in theobromine; it is much +valued on the market, and its strength and character render it +indispensable to the manufacturer.</p> + +<p>The neighbouring countries of Columbia and Venezuela, facing the +Caribbean Sea, have for centuries grown cacao of excellent quality. +The <i>criollo</i> (creole) bean is generally used as seed, and for it high +prices are obtained. Owing, however, to the unsettled state of <!-- Page 92 --><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92"></a>the +republics and their unstable governments, its cultivation has gone +back rather than forward during the past decade. With better +administration and settled peace, great developments might easily be +achieved. The British Royal Mail Steam Packet Company provides a good +fortnightly service to England.</p> + +<p>In early times the Jesuit missionaries encouraged the natives to form +small plantations on the borders of the river Orinoco, and Father +Gumilla, in his "History of the Orinoco," says: "I have seen in these +plains forests of wild cacao-trees, laden with bunches of pods, +supplying food to an infinite multitude of monkeys, squirrels, +parrots, and other animals."</p> + +<p>The name of "Soconosco" cocoa is still a guarantee of excellent +quality. This district in Guatemala was in bygone days so noted for +its cacao that the whole crop was monopolized for the use of the +Spanish Court. In Central America, as in other countries, the +Spaniards gathered more solid riches from the cacao than from the gold +mines they hoped to discover.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="g050" id="g050"></a><img src="images/g050.jpg" width="600" height="403" alt="A Scene in the Maracas Valley, Trinidad." title="" /> +<span class="caption">A Scene in the Maracas Valley, Trinidad.</span> +</div> + +<p>British and Dutch Guiana produced but little <!-- Page 93 --><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93"></a>cacao as long as sugar +realized high prices, but in comparatively recent years it has been +more extensively planted, and the crops from the lowlands at the +mouths of the great South American rivers have been very heavy.</p> + +<p>In French Guiana cacao was scarcely cultivated until about 1734, when +a forest of it was discovered on a branch of the Yari, which flows +into the Amazon. From this forest seeds were gathered, and plantations +were laid out in Cayenne.</p> + +<p>The cacao of Pará in Brazil differs from all other growths; the bean +is much smaller and rounder, and is elongated, but when well cured it +is mild, and has a very pleasant flavour, highly valued by +manufacturers. Bahia produces large quantities of cacao, formerly of +an inferior quality, owing to careless cultivation and indiscriminate +mixing of all that was brought from the interior, some of it wild and +uncured. But now this state of things is being improved, and the good +quality of "fermented" Bahian cacao is fully recognised.</p> + +<p>A little cacao is grown in the low-lying parts <!-- Page 94 --><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94"></a>of Rio Janeiro, but it +is not to be met with further south than this. The part of Florida +which borders the Gulf of Mexico and the southern part of Louisiana +mark the northerly limit of its natural growth.<a name="FNanchor_20_20" id="FNanchor_20_20"></a><a href="#Footnote_20_20" class="fnanchor">[20]</a> A traveller in +Louisiana in 1796 speaks of the cacao-tree among others as "covering +with delightful shade the shores of the Mississippi," and on the banks +of the Alatamaha in Georgia, but it is not cultivated so far north.</p> + +<p>At the present day the West India Islands rival the South American +Continent in providing cocoa from the New World. Trinidad has for more +than a century deservedly claimed to be the first of these +cocoa-producing islands. As far back as the sixteenth century the +Spaniards who first colonized the island were interested in the +cultivation of cacao. In the year 1780 a French gentleman residing in +the neighbouring island of Grenada visited Trinidad, and gave such a +glowing account of its fertility <!-- Page 95 --><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95"></a>that agriculturists from France +and elsewhere flocked to the colony, and ever since this date it has +maintained a high standard of agricultural advance. The names of the +cacao estates at the present day are nearly all Spanish or French, and +throughout the British occupation of more than a hundred years the old +families have in many cases held the same lands.<a name="FNanchor_21_21" id="FNanchor_21_21"></a><a href="#Footnote_21_21" class="fnanchor">[21]</a></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 540px;"> +<a name="c006" id="c006"></a><a href="images/c006.jpg"><img src="images/c006_thumb.jpg" width="540" height="416" alt="Map of Trinidad" title="" /></a> +</div> + +<p>The oldest estates in the island lie in the northern valleys of Santz +Cruz, Maracas, and Arima; but cultivation has been considerably +extended in the Montserrat and Naparima districts, and more recently +in almost every part of the island reached by the extension of the +railway and the coasting steamboat. The Trinidad bean is the largest +and finest flavoured, and commands a higher price on the market than +any other from the West Indies.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 277px;"><!-- Page 96 --><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96"></a> +<a name="g051" id="g051"></a><img src="images/g051.jpg" width="277" height="300" alt="MAP OF GRENADA." title="" /> +<span class="caption">MAP OF GRENADA.</span> +</div> + +<p>Next in importance to Trinidad is the little island of Grenada; here +cacao is the staple industry, the sugar estates that once lined the +shores having entirely disappeared. Grenada cacao is smaller than that +of Trinidad, possibly on account of the different method of planting +described in a previous chapter, but the flavour of the bean is +exceedingly good and regular, and the crop is bought up eagerly on the +British and American markets. The other West Indian islands producing +cocoa are <!-- Page 97 --><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97"></a>Jamaica and Dominica, where its cultivation is reviving; +also St. Lucia, St. Vincent, Tobago, and Montserrat, each of which +have a few plantations; those in St. Vincent suffered severely by the +recent hurricane. The French islands of Guadeloupe and Martinique +supply exclusively to the port of Havre; the cocoa from San Domingo is +of a somewhat inferior quality. Cuba will probably considerably extend +its output under American rule.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="g052" id="g052"></a><img src="images/g052.jpg" width="600" height="410" alt="A Hill Cacao Estate, Grenada, B.W.I." title="" /> +<span class="caption">A Hill Cacao Estate, Grenada, B.W.I.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 241px;"> +<a name="g053" id="g053"></a><img src="images/g053.jpg" width="241" height="300" alt="Map of Principe" title="" /> +</div> + +<p>In the Eastern Hemisphere by far the largest supplies come from the +small islands of St. Thomé and Principe, in the Gulf of Guinea, +belonging to the Portuguese. These have in recent years proved +especially adapted for the growth of the cacao, and the exports, +especially from the island of St. Thomé, are very large; most of the +crop finds its way to European markets, transhipping at Lisbon. There +is little cacao grown in the mainland African colonies, though the +German Government offers special inducements <!-- Page 98 --><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98"></a>in the Kameruns; no +British African colony grows it to any extent. Fernando Po sends +supplies to Spain, and occasionally on the London market strange +packages made of rough cowhide stitched with leather thongs are seen, +containing beans from Madagascar.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 248px;"> +<a name="g054" id="g054"></a><img src="images/g054.jpg" width="248" height="350" alt="Map of St. Thome" title="" /> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="g055" id="g055"></a><img src="images/g055.jpg" width="600" height="413" alt="Ceylon: Carting Cacao to Rail." title="" /> +<span class="caption">Ceylon: Carting Cacao to Rail.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 237px;"><!-- Page 99 --><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99"></a> +<a name="g056" id="g056"></a><img src="images/g056.jpg" width="237" height="350" alt="MAP OF CEYLON." title="" /> +<span class="caption">MAP OF CEYLON.</span> +</div> + +<p>Further east are the plantations of Ceylon. In the hill districts, of +which Matale is the centre, are many estates, some in joint +cultivation of tea and cocoa. The output from this colony is at the +present time nearly stationary. <!-- Page 100 --><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100"></a>The Dutch East Indian produce is +almost exclusively shipped to Amsterdam.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<a name="g057" id="g057"></a><img src="images/g057.jpg" width="350" height="178" alt="" title="" /> +</div> + +<p>In the preceding pages extracts have frequently been culled from +writers of the past: in the literature of the present day Charles +Kingsley's graphic account of Trinidad and its cacao and sugar +plantations in "At Last" should be read <i>in extenso</i>. Another very +interesting episode of modern date is the introduction of the cacao +into the Samoan Islands in the Pacific by Robert Louis Stevenson. +Writing to Sidney Colvin, on December 7, 1891, in one of his "Vailima +Letters," he says:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"When I was filling baskets all Saturday, in my dull, mulish + way, perhaps the slowest worker there, surely the most + particular, and the only one that <!-- Page 101 --><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101"></a>never looked up or knocked + off, I could not but think I should have been sent on + exhibition as an example to young literary men. 'Here is how to + learn to write' might be the motto. You should have seen us; + the veranda was like an Irish bog, our hands and faces were + bedaubed with soil, and Faauma was supposed to have struck the + right note when she remarked (<i>à propos</i> of nothing), 'Too much + <i>eleele</i> (soil) for me.' The cacao, you must understand, has to + be planted at first in baskets of plaited cocoa-leaf.<a name="FNanchor_22_22" id="FNanchor_22_22"></a><a href="#Footnote_22_22" class="fnanchor">[22]</a> From + four to ten natives were plaiting these in the wood-shed. Four + boys were digging up soil and bringing it by the boxful to the + veranda. Lloyd and I and Belle, and sometimes S. (who came to + bear a hand), were filling the baskets, removing stones and + lumps of clay; Austin and Faauma carried them when full to + Fanny, who planted a seed in each, and then set them, packed + close, in the corners of the veranda. From 12 on Friday till 5 + p.m. on Saturday we planted the first 1,500, and more than 700 + of a second lot. You cannot dream how filthy we were, and we + were all properly tired."<a name="FNanchor_23_23" id="FNanchor_23_23"></a><a href="#Footnote_23_23" class="fnanchor">[23]</a></p></div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="g058" id="g058"></a><img src="images/g058.jpg" width="600" height="412" alt="Samoa: A New Clearing for Cacao." title="" /> +<span class="caption">Samoa: A New Clearing for Cacao.</span> +</div> + +<p>Three years later he records:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"I have been forbidden to work, and have been instead doing<!-- Page 102 --><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102"></a> + my two or three hours in the plantation every morning. I only + wish somebody would pay me £10 a day for taking care of cacao, + and I could leave literature to others."</p></div> + +<p>Cacao cultivation in this island of Upolu has since that date +developed wonderfully, and is attracting much attention, the first +produce having been sold in Hamburg at a very high price. The consular +report on Samoa published in February, 1903, states that "the mainstay +of Samoa is cocoa," and it will be interesting to follow the progress +of an industry of which the versatile Scotchman was an early pioneer.</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_20_20" id="Footnote_20_20"></a><a href="#FNanchor_20_20"><span class="label">[20]</span></a> Florida even boasts a town of the name of Cocoa, but +inquiries on the spot have failed to discover that any attempt was +ever made to cultivate the plant there.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_21_21" id="Footnote_21_21"></a><a href="#FNanchor_21_21"><span class="label">[21]</span></a> Two of the coloured plates in this volume are +reproductions of pictures by members of one of the oldest French +families in the island, painted on their cocoa estate in the beautiful +valley of Santa Cruz.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_22_22" id="Footnote_22_22"></a><a href="#FNanchor_22_22"><span class="label">[22]</span></a> Leaf of the coco-nut palm.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_23_23" id="Footnote_23_23"></a><a href="#FNanchor_23_23"><span class="label">[23]</span></a> See plates facing pp. <a href="#Page_27">27</a> and <a href="#Page_29">29</a>.</p></div> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="APPENDIX_I" id="APPENDIX_I"></a><!-- Page 103 --><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103"></a>APPENDIX I.</h2> + +<h3>ANCIENT MANUFACTURE OF COCOA.</h3> + + +<p>Most of the operations described are only the performance on a large +scale by modern machinery of those employed by the Mexicans, and by +those who learned from them, of whom we read:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"For this purpose they have a broad, smooth stone, well + polished or glazed very hard, and being made fit in all + respects for their use, they grind the cacaos thereon very + small, and when they have so done, they have another broad + stone ready, under which they keep a gentle fire.</p> + +<p> "A more speedy way for the making up of the cacao into + chocolate is this: They have a mill made in the form of some + kind of malt-mills, whose stones are firm and hard, which work + by turning, and upon this mill are ground the cacaos grossly, + and then between other stones they work that which is <!-- Page 104 --><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104"></a>ground + yet smaller, or else by beating it up in a mortar bring it into + the usual form." +</p></div> + +<p>A later writer remarks of this process:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"The Indians, from whom we borrow it, are not very nice in + doing it; they roast the kernels in earthen pots, then free + them from their skins, and afterwards crush and grind them + between two stones, and so form cakes of it with their hands."</p></div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<a name="g059" id="g059"></a><img src="images/g059.jpg" width="350" height="167" alt="A MEXICAN METATE, OR GRINDING STONE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">A MEXICAN METATE, OR GRINDING STONE.</span> +</div> + +<p>And, further on, in speaking of the Spaniards' mode of preparation, he +says:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"They put them (the kernels) into a large mortar to reduce them + to a gross powder, which they afterwards grind upon a stone. + They make choice of a stone which naturally resists the fire, + from sixteen to eighteen inches broad, and about twenty-seven + or thirty long and three in thickness, and hollowed in <!-- Page 105 --><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105"></a>the + middle about one inch and a half deep. Under this they place a + pan of coals to heat the stone, so that the heat makes it easy + for the iron roller to make it so fine as to leave neither lump + nor the least hardness."</p></div> + +<p>At the present day, when the beans are plentiful on the cacao estates, +but no machines for manufacture exist, the planters prepare a +palatable drink by roasting the beans on a moving shovel or pan over +the open fire, husking them by the time-honoured plan of tossing in +the breeze, and grinding out on a flat stone in much the same manner +as did the old Spaniards. The writer has even seen a little +tobacco-press ingeniously adapted for the purpose of extracting the +butter, the invention of Mr. J.H. Hart, of the Trinidad Botanical +Gardens, a gentleman who has done much in the direction of +investigating the best cacao for seed, and the most favourable methods +of cultivation.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="APPENDIX_II" id="APPENDIX_II"></a><!-- Page 106 --><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106"></a>APPENDIX II.</h2> + +<h3>BOURNVILLE WORKS SUGGESTION SCHEME.</h3> + + +<div class="center">OBJECTS.</div> + +<div class="right"><i>December, 1902.</i></div> + +<p>The objects in view are:</p> + +<p>1. To encourage our employés to make all the suggestions they can for +the mutual welfare of the business and everyone connected with it. +Even the smallest suggestion may be of value.</p> + +<p>2. To enable those in our employ to share in the benefit of the +suggestions they make, and to receive personal recognition for them.</p> + +<p>3. To insure harmonious relations between all sections of the work.</p> + + +<div class="center">PRIZES.</div> + +<p>Prizes of the undermentioned values will be given half-yearly for +suggestions meriting reward:</p> + +<p>MEN'S DEPARTMENTS.—One of £10; two of £5; two of £2 10s.; ten of £1; +fifteen of 10s.; thirty of 5s. <!-- Page 107 --><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107"></a>GIRLS' DEPARTMENTS.—One of £5; two of +£2; eight of £1; fifteen of 10s.; thirty of 5s.</p> + + +<p>The following list will indicate on what lines suggestions may be +made:</p> + +<p>1. Comfort, safety, or health of employés.</p> + +<p>2. Means by which waste of material may be avoided.</p> + +<p>3. Saving of time or expense.</p> + +<p>4. Improvements in machinery or in methods of working.</p> + +<p>5. Introduction of new goods, or new ideas.</p> + +<p>6. Calling attention to any existing defects.</p> + +<p>7. Suggestions affecting athletic and other clubs and societies, +libraries, magazine, etc.</p> + +<p>8. Any suggestion not included in the above list will be welcomed.</p> + + +<div class="center">REGULATIONS.</div> + +<p>Everyone, including foremen and forewomen, is encouraged to make +suggestions which, if of value, will be eligible for the prizes +mentioned above (excepting those sent in by foremen and forewomen).</p> + +<p>Suggestions should be written on or attached to the forms which will +be found on each box, the boxes being fixed in the various +departments, also in the entrance lodges, dining-rooms, and recreation +grounds. Suggestions can be placed in any of these.</p> + +<p><!-- Page 108 --><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108"></a>It is imperative that all particulars at head of form, which will +bear a distinctive number, should be carefully filled in. If this is +not complied with no notice will be taken of suggestions. Forms may be +taken from the book and filled up at home.</p> + +<p>All suggestions will be acknowledged by a notice posted on the boards +once a week, giving a list of the printed numbers on the suggestion +forms received for consideration.</p> + +<p>Should any number not appear in this list a communication should at +once be sent to the Secretary.</p> + +<p>Those who have left the employ of the firm are entitled to prizes for +any suggestions made whilst they were here, unless they should leave +through misconduct.</p> + +<p>The suggestions are considered weekly by the committees with a member +of the firm, and are dealt with in the order in which they are +received. They are finally judged by the firm at the end of May and +November, and prizes distributed before the summer holidays and at the +Christmas gathering.</p> + +<p>Every effort is made by the committees to keep the names of the +suggestors <i>strictly private</i>.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="APPENDIX_III" id="APPENDIX_III"></a><!-- Page 109 --><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109"></a>APPENDIX III.</h2> + +<h3>THE EARLY COCOA HOUSES.</h3> + + +<p>At No. 64, St. James's Street is the "Cocoa Tree Club." In the reign +of Queen Anne there was a famous chocolate-house known as the "Cocoa +Tree," a favourite sign to mark that new and fashionable beverage. Its +frequenters were Tories of the strictest school. De Foe tells us in +his "Journey through England," that "a Whig will no more go to the +'Cocoa Tree' ... than a Tory will be seen at the coffee-house of St. +James's." In course of time the "Cocoa Tree" developed into a +gaming-house and a club.</p> + +<p>As a club, the "Cocoa Tree" did not cease to keep up its reputation +for high play. Although the present establishment bearing the name +dates its existence only from the year 1853, the old chocolate-house +was probably converted into a club as far back as the middle of the +last century. Lord Byron was a member of this club, and so was Gibbon, +the historian.</p> + +<p>—From "Old and New London," Cassell & Co.</p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<div class="center"><!-- Page 110 --><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110"></a><i>NOTE.</i></div> + +<p><i>Reference in detail to the numerous authorities who have been laid +under contribution for this brochure would be out of place in so +popular a compilation, but the writer desires to express his special +indebtedness to "Cocoa: All about It" by "Historicas," not only for +facts, but also for some of his illustrations. To Messrs. Cadbury, +too, he is indebted for permission to use several of the +illustrations, as well as for much valuable information.</i></p> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<hr class="full" /> +<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE FOOD OF THE GODS***</p> +<p>******* This file should be named 16035-h.txt or 16035-h.zip *******</p> +<p>This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:<br /> +<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/6/0/3/16035">https://www.gutenberg.org/1/6/0/3/16035</a></p> +<p>Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed.</p> + +<p>Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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