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+The Project Gutenberg eBook, The Food of the Gods, by Brandon Head
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: The Food of the Gods
+       A Popular Account of Cocoa
+
+
+Author: Brandon Head
+
+
+
+Release Date: June 10, 2005  [eBook #16035]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE FOOD OF THE GODS***
+
+
+E-text prepared by Clare Boothby, Karen Dalrymple, and the Project
+Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team (https://www.pgdp.net)
+
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+
+
+
+
+
+THE FOOD OF THE GODS
+
+[Greek: _Theô Brôma_]
+
+A Popular Account of Cocoa
+
+by
+
+BRANDON HEAD
+
+London: R. Brimley Johnson
+4, Adam Street, Adelphi, W.C.
+
+1903
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration--Colour Plate: EAST INDIAN COOLIES ON A TRINIDAD
+CACAO ESTATE]
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+CHAPTER                                                         PAGE
+
+I.   ITS NATURE                                                    1
+
+II.  ITS GROWTH AND CULTIVATION                                   25
+
+III. ITS MANUFACTURE                                              45
+
+IV.  ITS HISTORY                                                  71
+
+V.   ITS SOURCES AND VARIETIES                                    91
+
+     Appendices:
+
+       ANCIENT MANUFACTURE OF COCOA                              103
+
+       BOURNVILLE WORKS SUGGESTION SCHEME                        106
+
+       THE EARLY COCOA HOUSES                                    109
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS AND MAPS.
+
+
+                                                                PAGE
+EAST INDIAN COOLIES OF A TRINIDAD CACAO ESTATE
+  (COLOURED)                                      frontispiece
+
+CEYLON, A HILL CACAO ESTATE                             to face    1
+
+"MAKE A CUP OF COCOA IN PERFECTION" (see p. 19)                    1
+
+CACAO TREES, TRINIDAD                                   to face    3
+
+ANCIENT MEXICAN DRINKING CUPS                                      4
+
+"MOLINILLO," OR CHOCOLATE WHISK                                    5
+
+CACAO HARVEST, TRINIDAD                                 to face    7
+
+THE COCO-NUT PALM                                                  8
+
+COCO-DE-MER                                                        9
+
+LEAVES AND FLOWER OF THE CUCA SHRUB                               10
+
+GATHERING CACAO: SANTA CRUZ, TRINIDAD                  to face    11
+
+PURE DECORTICATED COCOA, MAGNIFIED                                12
+
+ADULTERATED COCOA, MAGNIFIED                                      13
+
+HOW THE CACAO GROWS                                    to face    17
+
+CACAO CROP, TRINIDAD                                      "       21
+
+ANALYTICAL APPARATUS                                              20
+
+CACAO PODS (COLOURED)                                  to face    25
+
+CACAO HARVESTING                                                  25
+
+CEYLON, NURSERY OF CACAO SEEDLINGS                     to face    27
+
+SAMOA: CACAO IN ITS FOURTH YEAR                           "       29
+
+YOUNG CACAO CULTIVATION WITH CATCH CROP                   "       30
+
+PODS OF CACAO THEOBROMA                                           31
+
+VARIETIES OF THE CACAO                                 to face    32
+
+THE HOME OF THE CACAO                                     "       35
+
+ORTINOLA, MARACAS, TRINIDAD                               "       36
+
+GOULET AND WOODEN SPOON                                           37
+
+CUTLASSES                                                         37
+
+CACAO DRYING IN THE SUN                                to face    39
+
+LABOURERS' COTTAGE, CACAO ESTATE                          "       40
+
+BASKETS OF CACAO ON PLANTAIN LEAVES                               41
+
+CACAO TREE AND SEEDLING (COLOURED)                     to face    43
+
+BOURNVILLE: "THE FACTORY IN A GARDEN"                     "       45
+
+    "       "ON ARRIVAL AT THE FACTORY"                           45
+
+    "       OFFICE BUILDINGS                           to face    47
+
+    "       CRICKET PAVILION                              "       49
+
+    "       GIRLS' DINING-HALL                            "       51
+
+    "       BOOT-SHELF ON STOOL                                   53
+
+    "       THE DINNER HOUR                            to face    54
+
+    "       LABURNAM ROAD                                 "       58
+
+    "       PACKING-ROOM                                  "       60
+
+    "       SUGGESTION BOX                                        62
+
+    "       LINDEN ROAD                                to face    63
+
+    "       FISHING POOL                                  "       64
+
+    "       ALMSHOUSES                                    "       67
+
+SECTION OF A COCOA FACTORY (COLOURED)                     "       69
+
+AMERICAN INDIAN WITH CHOCOLATE POT                                71
+
+NATIVE AMERICANS PREPARING COCOA                       to face    72
+
+A CACAO PLANTATION                                                75
+
+GRENADA: CACAO DRYING ON TRAYS                         to face    77
+
+MEXICAN DRINKING-VESSELS AND WHISK                                78
+
+CACAO TREE, TRINIDAD                                   to face    80
+
+MEXICAN COCOA WHISK                                               83
+
+WHITE'S COCOA HOUSE                                    to face    87
+
+CHART OF COCOA-PRODUCING COUNTRIES (COLOURED)          to face    91
+
+SACKS OF CACAO BEANS                                      "       91
+
+MARACAS VALLEY, TRINIDAD                                  "       92
+
+MAP OF TRINIDAD (COLOURED)                                "       95
+
+  "    GRENADA, BRITISH WEST INDIES                               96
+
+CACAO ESTATE, GRENADA                                  to face    96
+
+MAP OF PRINCIPE                                                   97
+
+  "    S. THOMÉ                                                   98
+
+CEYLON: CARTING CACAO TO RAIL                          to face    99
+
+MAP OF CEYLON                                                     99
+
+  "    SAMOA                                                     100
+
+SAMOA, CLEARING FOR CACAO                              to face   100
+
+MEXICAN GRINDING-STONE                                           104
+
+
+[Illustration--Black & White Plate: Ceylon: A Hill Cacao Estate.]
+
+
+
+
+"THE FOOD OF THE GODS."
+
+
+
+
+I. ITS NATURE.
+
+
+[Illustration--Drawing: "MAKE A CUP OF COCOA IN PERFECTION"]
+
+When one thinks of the marvellously nourishing and stimulating virtue
+of cocoa, and of the exquisite and irresistible dainties prepared from
+it, one cannot wonder that the great Linnæus should have named it
+_theo broma_, "the food of the gods." No other natural product, with
+the exception of milk, can be said to serve equally well as food or
+drink, or to possess nourishing and stimulating properties in such
+well-adjusted proportions. Few, however, realize that in its
+stimulating properties cocoa ranks ahead of coffee, though below tea.
+As a matter of fact, the active principles of all three are alkaloids,
+practically identical and equally effective.[1] Each derives its value
+from its influence on the nervous system, which it stimulates, while
+checking the waste of tissue, but the cocoa-bean provides in addition
+solid food to replace wasted tissue. It is, indeed, so closely allied
+in composition to pure dried milk, that in this respect there is
+little to choose between an absolutely pure cocoa essence and the
+natural fluid.[2] It is this which makes it invaluable as an
+alternative food for invalids or infants.
+
+[Illustration--Black and White Plate: Cacao Trees, Trinidad.]
+
+An early English writer on this valuable product spoke truly when he
+remarked: "All the American travellers have written such panegyricks,
+that I should degrade this royal liquor if I should offer any; yet
+several of these curious travellers and physicians do agree in this,
+that the cocoa has a wonderful faculty of quenching thirst, allaying
+hectick heats, of nourishing and fattening the body."
+
+A modern writer[3] affords the same testimony in a more practical form
+when he records that: "Cocoa is of domestic drinks the most
+alimentary; it is without any exception the cheapest food that we can
+conceive, as it may be literally termed meat and drink, and were our
+half-starved artisans and over-worked factory children induced to
+drink it, instead of the in-nutritious beverage called tea, its
+nutritive qualities would soon develop themselves in their improved
+looks and more robust condition."
+
+Such a drink well deserved the treatment it received at the hands of
+the Mexicans to whom we are indebted for it. At the royal banquets
+frothing chocolate was served in golden goblets with finely wrought
+golden or tortoise-shell spoons. The froth in this case was of the
+consistency of honey, so that when eaten cold it would gradually
+dissolve in the mouth. Here is a luscious suggestion for twentieth
+century housewives, handed to them from five hundred years ago!
+
+[Illustration--Drawing: ANCIENT MEXICAN DRINKING CUPS.
+(_British Museum._)]
+
+In health or sickness, infancy or age, at home or on our travels,
+nothing is so generally useful, so sustaining and invigorating. Far
+better than the majority of vaunted substitutes for human milk as an
+infant's food, to supplement what other milk may be available;
+incomparable as a family drink for breakfast or supper, when both tea
+and coffee are really out of place unless the latter is nearly all
+milk; prepared as chocolate to eat on journeys, and in many other
+ways, cocoa is a constant stand-by. Travelling in Eastern deserts on
+mule-back, the present writer has never been without a tin of cocoa
+essence if he could help it, as, whatever straits he might be put to
+for provisions, so long as he had this and water, refreshment was
+possible, and whenever milk was available he had command in his lonely
+tent of a luxury unsurpassed in Paris or London. For the sustenance of
+invalids he has found nothing better in the home-land than a nightly
+cup of cocoa essence boiled with milk.
+
+[Illustration--Drawing: MOLINILLO (LITTLE MILL) OR CHOCOLATE WHISK.]
+
+Add to these experiences a love for the flavour which dates from
+childhood, and his admiration for this "food of the gods" will be
+appreciated, even if not sympathized in, by the few who have escaped
+its spell. Its value in the eyes of practical as well as scientific
+men is sufficiently demonstrated by its increasing use in naval and
+military commissariats, in hospitals, and in public institutions of
+all classes. In the British Navy, which down to 1830 consumed more
+cocoa than the rest of the nation together, it is served out daily,
+and in the army twice or thrice a week. Brillat Savarin, the author of
+the "Physiologie du Goût," remarks: "The persons who habitually take
+chocolate are those who enjoy the most equable and constant health,
+and are least liable to a multitude of illnesses which spoil the
+enjoyment of life."
+
+[Illustration--Black and White Plate: A Cacao Harvest, Trinidad.]
+
+It certainly behoves us, therefore, to learn something more of such a
+valuable article than may be gleaned from the perusal of an
+advertisement, or the instructions on a packet containing it. There is
+something more than usually fascinating even in its history, in all
+the tales regarding this treasure-trove of the New World, and in the
+curious methods by which it has been treated. The story of its
+discovery takes us into the atmosphere of the Elizabethan period, and
+into the company of Cortes and Columbus; to learn of its cultivation
+and preparation we are transported to the glorious realms of the
+tropics, and to some of the most healthful centres of labour in the
+old country--in one case to the model village of the English Midlands.
+It is therefore an exceedingly pleasant round that lies before us in
+investigating this subject, as well as one which will afford much
+useful knowledge for every-day life.
+
+Before proceeding to a closer acquaintance with the origin of cocoa,
+it may be well to clear the ground of possible misconceptions which
+occasionally cause confusion.
+
+[Illustration--Drawing: THE COCO-NUT PALM.]
+
+First, there is the word "cocoa" itself, an unfortunate inversion of
+the name of the tree from which it is derived, the cacao.[4] A still
+more unfortunate corruption is that of "coco-nut" to "cocoa-nut,"
+which is altogether inexcusable. In this case it is therefore quite
+correct to drop the concluding "a," as the coco-nut has nothing
+whatever to do with cocoa or the cacao, being the fruit of a palm[5]
+in every way distinct from it, as will be seen from the accompanying
+illustration.
+
+[Illustration--Drawing: COCO-DE-MER.]
+
+The name "coco" is also applied to another quite distinct fruit, the
+_coco-de-mer_, or "sea-coco," somewhat resembling a coco-nut in its
+pod, but weighing about 28 lbs., and likewise growing on a lofty tree;
+its habitat is the Seychelles Islands. Sometimes also, confusion
+arises between the cacao and the coca or cuca,[6] a small shrub like
+a blackthorn, also widely cultivated in Central America, from the
+leaves of which the powerful narcotic cocaine is extracted.
+
+[Illustration--Drawing: LEAVES AND FLOWER OF THE CUCA SHRUB.]
+
+In the second place, the name "cocoa," which is strictly applicable
+only to the pure ground nib or its concentrated essence, is sometimes
+unjustifiably applied to preparations of cocoa with starch, alkali,
+sugar, etc., which it would be more correct to describe as "chocolate
+powder," chocolate being admittedly a confection of cocoa with other
+substances and flavourings.
+
+[Illustration--Black and White Plate: Gathering Cacao: Santa Cruz,
+Trinidad.]
+
+"Chocolate" is, therefore, a much wider term than "cocoa,"
+embracing both the food and the drink prepared from the cacao, and is
+the Mexican name, _chocolatl_, slightly modified, having nothing to do
+with the word cacao, in Mexican _cacauatl_.[7] In the New World it was
+compounded of cacao, maize, and flavourings to which the Spaniards, on
+discovering it, added sugar, cinnamon, vanilla, and other ingredients,
+such as musk and ambergris, cloves and nutmegs, almonds and
+pistachios, anise, and even red peppers or chillies. "Sometimes," says
+a treatise on "The Natural History of Chocolate," "China [quinine] and
+assa [foetida?]; and sometimes steel and rhubarb, may be added for
+young and green ladies."
+
+In our own times it is unfortunately common to add potato-starch,
+arrowroot, etc., to the cocoa, and yet to sell it by the name of the
+pure article. Such preparations thicken in the cup, and are preferred
+by some under the mistaken impression that this is a sign of its
+containing more nutriment instead of less. Although not so wholesome,
+there could be no objection to these additions so long as the
+preparations were not labelled "cocoa," and were sold at a lower
+price.
+
+[Illustration--Drawing: PURE DECORTICATED COCOA, HIGHLY MAGNIFIED.]
+
+Such adulteration is rendered possible by the presence in the bean of
+a large proportion of fatty matter or cocoa-butter, which renders it
+too rich for most digestions. To overcome this difficulty one or other
+of two methods is available: (1) Lowering the percentage of fat by the
+addition of starch, sugar, etc.; or (2) removing a large proportion of
+the fat by some extractive process; this latter method being in every
+respect preferable to that first mentioned.
+
+[Illustration--Drawing: COCOA ADULTERATED WITH ARROWROOT OR POTATO STARCH.]
+
+In order to avoid the expense and trouble consequent on the latter
+process, some manufacturers add alkali, by which means the free fatty
+acids are saponified, and the fat is held in a state of emulsion, thus
+giving the cocoa a false appearance of solubility.
+
+Another effect of the alkali is to impart to the beverage a much
+darker colour, from its action on the natural red colouring matter of
+the cocoa, this darkening being often taken, unfortunately, as
+indicative of increased strength. On this account the presence of
+added alkali should be regarded as an adulteration, unless notified on
+the package in which the cocoa is contained.
+
+A more subtle treatment with alkali for the same purpose is the
+addition to the pulverized bean of carbonate of ammonia, or caustic
+ammonia. This is afterwards volatilized by the application of heat.
+Scents and flavourings are then added to disguise their smell and
+taste.
+
+Besides these combinations of cocoa with starch, sugar, etc., and
+cocoa treated with alkali, there are now found on the market mixtures
+of cocoa with such substances as kola, malt, hops, etc., sold under
+strange-sounding names, reminding one of the many mixtures that are
+made up as medicines rather than food. While the substances thus
+incorporated are of value in their place, they possess no virtues
+which are absent from the pure cocoa, and cannot be in any way
+considered an improvement of cocoa as food. The sooner this practice
+of drug taking under cover of diet comes to an end the better it will
+be for the national health.
+
+Formerly Venetian red, umber, peroxide of iron, and even brick-dust,
+were employed to produce a cheaper article, but modern science and
+legislation combined have rendered such practices almost impossible.
+As early as the reign of George III. an Act[8] was passed, providing
+that, "if any article made to resemble cocoa shall be found in the
+possession of any dealer, under the name of 'American cocoa' or
+'English cocoa,' or any other name of cocoa, it shall be forfeited,
+and the dealer shall forfeit £100." Yet this Act was allowed to become
+so much a dead letter that in 1851 the _Lancet_ published the analysis
+of fifty-six preparations sold as "cocoa," of which only eight were
+free from adulteration. In some of the "soluble cocoas," the
+adulteration was as high as 65 per cent., potato starch in one case
+forming 50 per cent. of the sample. The majority of the samples were
+found to be coloured with mineral or earthy pigments, and specimens
+treated with red lead are on exhibition at South Kensington.
+
+The inclusion of the husk or shell in some of the cheaper forms of
+chocolate is another reprehensible practice (strongly condemned), as
+they do not possess the qualities for which the kernel or nib is so
+highly prized. To prevent this practice it was enacted in 1770 that
+the shells or husks should be seized or destroyed, and the officer
+seizing them rewarded up to 20s. per hundredweight. From these a
+light, but not unpalatable, table decoction is still prepared in
+Ireland and elsewhere, under the designation of "miserables."
+
+Among other beverages which have from time to time been produced from
+the cacao was a fermented drink much in vogue at the Mexican Court, to
+which it appears from the accounts of the conquest that Montezuma was
+addicted, as "after the hot dishes (300 in number) had been removed,
+every now and then was handed to him a golden pitcher filled with a
+kind of liquor made from cacao, which is very exciting." One variety,
+called _zaca_, drunk by the Itzas, consisted of cocoa mixed with a
+fermented liquor prepared from maize; but a more harmless invention
+was a drink composed of cocoa-butter and maize.
+
+[Illustration--Black and White Photgraph: How the Cacao Grows.
+(Showing Leaf, Flower, and Fruit.)]
+
+There remain three forms in which pure cocoa may be prepared as a
+beverage:
+
+1. _Cocoa-nibs._--The natural broken segments of the roasted
+cocoa-bean, after the shell has been removed, prepared for table as an
+infusion by prolonged simmering.
+
+It is strange that this ridiculous and wasteful means is still in use
+at all, as next to none of the valuable portions of the nib are
+extracted. The quantity of matter removed by the hot water is so
+small, that close upon 90 per cent, of the nourishing and feeding
+constituents are left behind in the undissolved sediment, the
+substances extracted being principally salts and colouring matters.
+One can but suppose that the long habit of drinking an infusion from
+coffee-beans and tea-leaves has fixed in the mind the erroneous idea
+that the substance of the cocoa-bean is also valueless. The fact
+remains, however, that it is still customary at some hydropathic
+establishments, and perhaps in a few other instances, for doctors to
+order "nibs" for their patient, which may sometimes be accounted for
+by injury having resulted from drinking one of the many "faked" cocoas
+offered for sale; the order for "nibs" being a despairing effort to
+obtain the genuine article.
+
+2. _Consolidated Nibs_--_i.e._, cocoa-nibs ground between heated
+stones, whence it flows in a paste of the consistency of cream, which,
+when cool, hardens into a cake containing all the cocoa-butter. Cocoa
+in this form (mixed with sugar before cooling) is served in the
+British Navy--a somewhat wasteful and inconvenient practice, as when
+stirred, the excess of fat at once floats to the top of the cup, and
+is generally removed with a spoon, to make the drink more appetising.
+
+3. _Cocoa Essence._--This is the same article as No. 2, with about 60
+per cent, of the natural butter removed; consequently the proportion
+of albuminous and stimulating elements is greatly increased. It is
+prepared instantly by pouring boiling water upon it, thus forming a
+light beverage with all the strength and flesh-forming constituents of
+the decorticated bean.[9]
+
+Chemical analysis of cacao-nibs and cocoa essence shows them to
+contain on an average:
+
+                                      Cacao-nibs.   Cocoa Essence.
+
+     Cocoa-butter                      50 parts.       30 parts.
+     Albuminoid substances             16   "          22   "
+     Carbohydrates (sugar, starch,
+       and digestible cellulose)       21   "          30   "
+     Theobromine                        1.5 "           2   "
+     Salts                              3.5 "           5   "
+     Other constituents                 8   "          11   "
+                                     ------          ------
+                                      100             100
+
+The _cocoa-butter_ when clarified is of a pale yellow colour, and as
+it melts at about 90° F. it is of great value for pharmaceutical
+purposes, especially as it only becomes rancid when subjected to
+excessive heat and light, as to the direct rays of the sun.
+
+[Illustration--Drawing: ANALYTICAL APPARATUS.]
+
+The _albuminoid_ or _nitrogenous constituents_ will be seen to form
+about a sixth of the whole nib, or more than a fifth of the cocoa
+essence, and to their presence is due the fact that absolutely pure
+cocoa is such a remarkable flesh-former.
+
+[Illustration--Black and White Plate: Cacao Crop, Trinidad.]
+
+The _carbohydrates_, producing warmth and fat, are also important food
+substances, the proportion of which, while forming about a fifth of
+the whole bean, rises to close upon a third of the essence.
+
+Cocoa also contains a _volatile oil_, from which it derives its
+peculiar and delicious aroma.
+
+Thus _nearly nine-tenths of the cacao-bean may be assimilated by the
+digestive organs_, while three-fourths of tea and coffee are thrown
+away as waste. For the same bulk, therefore, cocoa is said to yield
+thirteen times the nutriment of tea, and four and a half times that of
+coffee. Its value as a substitute for mother's milk has already been
+alluded to, but may well be emphasized by a quotation from a paper
+read before the Surgical Society of Ireland in 1877 by one of its
+Fellows, Mr. Faussett:
+
+     "Without presuming to pass any judgment on the many artificial
+     substitutes which, on alleged chemical and scientific
+     principles, have from time to time been pressed forward under
+     the notice of the profession and the public to take the place
+     of mother's milk, I beg to call attention to a very cheap and
+     simple article which is easily procurable--viz., cocoa, and
+     which, _when pure and deprived of an excess of fatty matter_,
+     may safely be relied on, as cocoa in the natural state abounds
+     in a number of valuable nutritious principles, in fact, in
+     every material necessary for the growth, development, and
+     sustenance of the body."
+
+After giving some remarkable cases of children being restored from
+"the last stage of exhaustion" by its use, and "continued through the
+whole period of infancy," with the effect of their becoming fine,
+healthy children, he concluded by saying:
+
+     "I beg therefore respectfully to commend cocoa, as an article
+     of infant's food, to the notice of my professional brethren,
+     especially those who, holding office under the Poor Laws, have
+     such large and extensive opportunities of testing its value."
+
+As a beverage for mothers or nurses cocoa is recommended by Dr. Milner
+Fothergill, in his work on "The Food we Eat," in preference to
+porter, stout or ale, an opinion now becoming generally adopted. It
+may, therefore, be regarded as the indispensable, all-round nursery
+food, if not the constant stand-by of the family.
+
+That it is as nutritious for old as well as young we have an
+interesting proof in the fact that the first Englishman born in
+Jamaica, Colonel Montague James, who lived to the age of 104, took
+scarcely any food but cocoa and chocolate for the last thirty years of
+his life. For athletes and all who desire the development of the
+muscular tissues, its use is most beneficial. Professor Cavill, in his
+celebrated swim from Southampton to Portsmouth, and his nearly
+successful attempt to swim across the English Channel, considered it
+to be the most concentrated and sustaining food he could use for that
+trying test of endurance.
+
+In his "Treatise on Food and Dietetics," Dr. Pavy remarks that:
+
+     "Containing, as pure cocoa does, twice as much nitrogenous
+     matter, and twenty-five times as much fatty matter as wheaten
+     flour, with a notable quantity of starch, and an agreeable
+     aroma to tempt the palate, it cannot be otherwise than a
+     valuable alimentary material. It has been compared in this
+     respect to milk. It conveniently furnishes a large amount of
+     agreeable nourishment in a small bulk, and, taken with bread,
+     will suffice, in the absence of any other food, to furnish a
+     good repast."
+
+Indeed, the value of cocoa as food for ordinary mortals as well as for
+mythical beings cannot be better summed up than in the words of
+Professor Lankester, Superintendent of the Food Collections at South
+Kensington, who declares:
+
+     "It can hardly be regarded as a substitute for tea and coffee;
+     it is, in fact, a substitute for all other kinds of food, and
+     when taken with some form of bread, little or nothing else need
+     be added at a meal. The same may be said of chocolate."
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[1] According to Drs. Playfair and Lankester:
+
+     Tea contains  3     per cent. theine.
+     Coffee "      1¾       "      caffeine.
+     Cocoa  "      2        "      theobromine.
+
+Probably the proportion of caffeine in coffee would be more correctly
+stated as 1¼ per cent. Theine and caffeine are identical, but
+theobromine (C_{7}H_{8}N_{4}O_{2}) differs from both in the greater
+proportion of nitrogen which it contains.
+
+[2] Dr. Johnson's analysis:
+
+     Dried milk               35       \
+     Cocoa essence            34¾       \  Flesh formers in
+     Cocoa-nibs               23        /    each hundred parts.
+     Best French chocolates   11       /
+
+[3] Mr. O.L. Symonds, "Commercial Products of the Vegetable Kingdom."
+
+[4] The _Cacao theobroma_. There are several other varieties of cacao,
+but none of them produce the famous food.
+
+[5] The _Cocos nucifera_, or "nut-bearing coco."
+
+[6] _Erythroxylon coca._
+
+[7] Or, as otherwise written, _cacava quahuitl_.
+
+[8] 10 George III., c. 10.
+
+[9] To make cocoa in perfection, for three breakfast-cups: in a quart
+jug (with rounded bottom and narrower neck by preference) mix 1½
+dessert spoonfuls (¾ oz.) of Cocoa Essence with equal bulk of
+powdered white sugar, and stir to a thin paste with a little boiling
+water. Mix in an enamelled saucepan one breakfast-cup of milk with two
+cups of water (cups to be about ¾ full), and boil with care. When on
+the boil, pour this over the contents of the jug, and whisk vigorously
+for a few seconds (see illustration, p. 1). Serve to table without
+delay. To make a richer drink, use equal parts of milk and water. To
+ensure the beverage being served as hot as possible, it is desirable
+to warm the jug before the cocoa is put into it. The effect of this
+method of preparation is to impart to the cocoa a more mellow taste,
+and to produce a deep froth on the surface, giving it a most
+appetizing appearance. The thorough mixing to which the cocoa is
+subjected also materially lessens the amount of sediment in the bottom
+of the cup.
+
+
+[Illustration--Colour Plate: CACAO PODS]
+
+
+
+
+II. ITS GROWTH AND CULTIVATION.
+
+
+
+[Illustration--Drawing: CACAO HARVESTING.]
+
+Cocoa is now grown in many parts of the tropics, reference to which is
+made in another chapter. The conditions, however, do not greatly vary,
+and there are probably many lands in the tropical belt where it is yet
+unknown that possess soil well suited to its extended cultivation.
+
+The cacao-tree grows wild in the forests of Central America, and
+varieties have been found also in Jamaica and other West Indian
+islands, and in South America. It does not thrive more than fifteen
+degrees north or south of the equator, and even within these limits it
+is not very successfully grown more than 600 feet above the sea-level;
+in many districts where sugar formerly monopolized the plains, it was
+supposed that cocoa needed an altitude of at least 200 feet, but
+experiments of planting on the old sugar estates and other low-lying
+places are generally successful where the soil is good, as in
+Trinidad, Cuba, and British Guiana. It has been found that the expense
+saved in roads, labour, and transit on the level has been very
+considerable in comparison with that incurred on some of the hill
+estates.
+
+In appearance the cacao-tree is not greatly unlike one of our own
+orchard trees, and trained by the pruning knife it grows similar in
+shape to a well-kept apple tree, no very low boughs being left, so
+that a man on horseback can generally pass freely down the long
+glades. Left to nature, it will in good soil reach a height of over
+twenty feet, and its branches will extend for ten feet from the
+centre.
+
+[Illustration--Black and White Plate: Ceylon: Nursery of Cacao
+Seedlings in Baskets of plaited Palm Leaf.]
+
+The best soil is that made by the decomposition of volcanic rock, so
+that it is a common sight to find areas strewn with large boulders
+turned into a cocoa plantation of great fertility; but the best trees
+of all lie along the _vegas_ which intersect the hills, where the soil
+is deep, and the stream winding among the trees supplies natural
+irrigation. The tree also grows well in loams and the richer marls,
+but will not thrive on clay and other heavy soils.
+
+The cacao is one of the tenderest of tropical growths, and will not
+flourish in any exposed position, for which reason large shade belts
+are left along exposed ridges and other parts of a hill estate, thus
+greatly reducing the total area under cultivation, in comparison with
+an estate of equal extent on the level plains, where no shade belts
+are necessary.
+
+The beans are planted either "at stake,"--when three beans are put in
+round each stake, the one thriving best after the first year being
+left to mature,--or "from nursery," whence, after a few months' growth
+in bamboo or palm-leaf baskets, they are transplanted into the
+clearing.
+
+The preparation of the land is the first and greatest expense; trees
+have to be felled, and bush cut down and spread over the land, so that
+the sun can quickly render it combustible. When all is clear, the
+cacao is put in among a "catch crop" of vegetables (the cassava,
+tania, pigeon-pea, and others), and frequently bananas, though, as
+taking more nutriment from the soil, they are sometimes objected to.
+But the seedling cacao needs a shade, and as it is some years before
+it comes into bearing, it is usual to plant the "catch crop" for the
+sake of a small return on the land, as well as to meet this need.
+
+In Trinidad, at the same time that the cacao[10] is planted at about
+twelve feet centres, large forest trees are also planted at from fifty
+to sixty feet centres, to provide permanent shade. The tree most used
+for this purpose is the _Bois Immortelle_ (_Erythrina umbrosa_); but
+others are also employed, and experiments are now being made on some
+estates to grow rubber as a shade tree. In recent clearings in Samoa,
+trees are left standing at intervals to serve this end.
+
+[Illustration--Black and White Plate: Samoa: Cacao in its fourth Year.]
+
+In Grenada, British West Indies, and some other districts, shade is
+entirely dispensed with, and the trees are planted at about eight feet
+centres, thus forming a denser foliage. By this means at least 500
+trees will be raised on an acre, against less than 300 in Trinidad,
+the result showing almost invariably a larger output from the Grenada
+estates. This practice is better suited to steep hillside plantations
+than to those in open valleys or on the plains.
+
+The cacao leaves, at first a tender yellowish-brown, ultimately turn
+to a bright green, and attain a considerable size, often fourteen to
+eighteen inches in length, sometimes even larger. The tree is subject
+to scale insects, which attack the leaf, also to grubs, which quickly
+rot the limbs and trunks, this last being at one time a very serious
+pest in Ceylon. If left to Nature the trees are quickly covered
+lichen, moss, "vines," ferns, and innumerable parasitic growths, and
+the cost of keeping an estate free from all the natural enemies which
+would suck the strength of the tree and lessen the crop is very great.
+
+[Illustration--Black and White Plate: Young Cultivation, with catch
+Crop of Bananas, Cassava, and Tania: Trinidad.]
+
+The cacao will bloom in its third year, but does not bear fruit till
+its fourth or fifth. The flower is small, out of all proportion to the
+size of the mature fruit. Little clusters of these tiny pink and
+yellow blossoms show in many places along the old wood of the tree,
+often from the upright trunk itself, and within a few inches of the
+ground; they are extremely delicate, and a planter will be satisfied
+if every third or fourth produces fruit. In dry weather or cold, or
+wind, the little pods only too quickly shrivel into black shells; but
+if the season be good they as quickly swell, till, in the course of
+three or four months, they develop into full grown pods from seven to
+twelve inches long. During the last month of ripening they are subject
+to the attack of a fresh group of enemies--squirrels, monkeys, rats,
+birds, deer, and others, some of them particularly annoying, as it is
+often found that when but a small hole has been made, and a bean or
+so extracted, the animal passes on to similarly attack another pod;
+such pods rot at once. Snakes generally abound in the cacao regions,
+and are never killed, being regarded as the planter's best friends,
+from their hostility to his animal foes. A boa will probably destroy
+more than the most zealous hunter's gun.
+
+[Illustration--Drawing: PODS OF CACAO THEOBROMA.]
+
+From its twelfth to its sixtieth year, or later, each tree will bear
+from fifty to a hundred and fifty pods, according to the season, each
+pod containing from thirty-six to forty-two beans. Eleven pods will
+produce about a pound of cured beans, and the average yield of a large
+estate will be, in some cases, four hundredweight per acre, in
+others, twice as much. The trees bear nearly all the year round, but
+only two harvests are gathered, the most abundant from November to
+January, known as the "Christmas crop," and a smaller picking about
+June, known as the "St. John's crop." The trees throw off their old
+leaves about the time of picking, or soon after; should the leaves
+change at any other time, the young flower and fruit will also
+probably wither.
+
+Of the many varieties of the cacao, the best known are the _criollo_,
+_forastero_, and _calabacilla_. The _criollo_ ("native") fruit is of
+average size, characterized by a "pinched" neck and a curving point.
+This is the best kind, though not the most productive; it is largely
+planted in Venezuela, Columbia and Ceylon, and produces a bean light
+in colour and delicate in flavour. The _forastero_ ("foreign") pod is
+long and regular in shape, deeply furrowed, and generally of a rough
+surface. The _calabacilla_ ("little calabash") is smooth and round,
+like the fruit after which it is named. All varieties are seen in
+bearing with red, yellow, purple, and sometimes green pods, the colour
+not being necessarily an indication of ripeness.
+
+[Illustration--Black and White Plate: Varieties of the Cacao.]
+
+On breaking open the pod, the beans are seen clinging in a cluster
+round a central fibre, the whole embedded in a white sticky pulp,
+through which the red skin of the cacao-bean shows a delicate pink.
+The pulp has the taste of acetic acid, refreshing in a hot climate,
+but soon dries if exposed to the sun and air. The pod or husk is of a
+porous, woody nature, from a quarter to half an inch thick, which,
+when thrown aside on warm moist soil, rots in a day or two.
+
+Much has been written of life on a cocoa estate; and all who have
+enjoyed the proverbial hospitality of a West Indian or Ceylon planter,
+highly praise the conditions of their life. The description of an
+estate in the northern hills of Trinidad will serve as an example. The
+other industry of this island is sugar, in cultivating which the
+coloured labourers work in the broiling sun, as near to the steaming
+lagoon as they may in safety venture. Later on in the season the long
+rows between the stifling canes have to be hoed; then, when the time
+of "crop" arrives, the huge mills in the _usine_ are set in motion,
+and for the longest possible hours of daylight the workers are in the
+field, loading mule-cart or light railway with massive canes. In the
+yard around the crushing-mills the shouting drivers bring their
+mule-teams to the mouth of the hopper, and the canes are bundled into
+the crushing rollers with lightning speed. The mills run on into the
+night, and the hours of sleep are only those demanded by stern
+necessity, until the crop is safely reaped and the last load of canes
+reduced to shredded _megass_ and dripping syrup.
+
+But upon the cocoa estate there is lasting peace. From the railway on
+the plain we climb the long valley, our strong-boned mule or lithe
+Spanish horse taking the long slopes at a pleasant amble, standing to
+cool in the ford of the river we cross and re-cross, or plucking the
+young shoots of the graceful bamboos so often fringing our path.
+Villages and straggling cottages, with palm thatch and _adobe_ walls,
+are passed, orange or bread-fruit shading the little garden, and
+perhaps a mango towering over all. The proprietor is still at work on
+the plantation, but his wife is preparing the evening meal, while the
+children, almost naked, play in the sunshine.
+
+[Illustration--Black and White Plate: The Home of the Cacao.
+(_One of Messrs. Cadburys' Estates, Maracas, Trinidad._)]
+
+The cacao-trees of neighbouring planters come right down to the ditch
+by the roadside, and beneath dense foliage, on the long rows of stems
+hang the bright glowing pods. Above all towers the _bois immortelle_,
+called by the Spaniards _la madre del cacao_, "the mother of the
+cacao." In January or February the _immortelle_ sheds its leaves and
+bursts into a crown of flame-coloured blossom. As we reach the
+shoulder of the hill, and look down on the cacao-filled hollow, with
+the _immortelle_ above all, it is a sea of golden glory, an
+indescribably beautiful scene. Now we note at the roadside a plant of
+dragon's blood, and if we peer among the trees there is another just
+within sight; this, therefore, is the boundary of two estates. At an
+opening in the trees a boy slides aside the long bamboos which form
+the gateway, and a short canter along a grass track brings us to the
+open savanna or pasture around the homestead.
+
+Here are grazing donkeys, mules, and cattle, while the chickens run
+under the shrubs for shelter, reminding one of home. The house is
+surrounded with crotons and other brilliant plants, beyond which is a
+rose garden, the special pride of the planter's wife. If the sun has
+gone down behind the western hills, the boys will come out and play
+cricket in the hour before sunset. These savannas are the beauty-spots
+of a country clothed in woodland from sea-shore to mountain-top.
+
+[Illustration--Black and White Plate: Ortinola, Maracas, Trinidad.]
+
+Next morning we are awaked by a blast from a conch-shell. It is 6.30,
+and the mist still clings in the valley; the sun will not be over the
+hills for another hour or more, so in the cool we join the labourers
+on the mule-track to the higher land, and for a mile or more follow a
+stream into the heart of the estate. If it is crop-time, the men will
+carry a _goulet_--a hand of steel, mounted on a long bamboo--by the
+sharp edges of which the pods are cut from the higher branches without
+injury to the tree. Men and women all carry cutlasses, the one
+instrument needful for all work on the estate, serving not only for
+reaping the lower pods, but for pruning and weeding, or "cutlassing,"
+as the process of clearing away the weed and brush is called.
+
+[Illustration--Drawing: GOULET AND WOODEN SPOON.]
+
+[Illustration--Drawing: CUTLASSES.]
+
+Gathering the pods is heavy work, always undertaken by men. The pods
+are collected from beneath the trees and taken to a convenient heap,
+if possible near to a running stream, where the workers can refill
+their drinking-cups for the mid-day meal. Here women sit, with trays
+formed of the broad banana leaves, on which the beans are placed as
+they extract them from the pod with wooden spoons. The result of the
+day's work, placed in panniers on donkey-back, is "crooked" down to
+the cocoa-house, and that night remains in box-like bins, with
+perforated sides and bottom, covered in with banana leaves. Every
+twenty-four hours these bins are emptied into others, so that the
+contents are thoroughly mixed, the process being continued for four
+days or more, according to circumstances.
+
+This is known as "sweating." Day by day the pulp becomes darker, as
+fermentation sets in, and the temperature is raised to about 140° F.
+During fermentation a dark sour liquid runs away from the sweat-boxes,
+which is, in fact, a very dilute acetic acid, but of no commercial
+value. During the process of "sweating" the cotyledons of the
+cocoa-bean, which are at first a purple colour and very compact in the
+skin, lose their brightness for a duller brown, and expand the skin,
+giving the bean a fuller shape. When dry, a properly cured bean should
+crush between the finger and thumb.
+
+[Illustration--Black and White Plate: Cacao Drying in the Sun, Maracas,
+Trinidad.]
+
+Finally the beans are turned on to a tray to dry in the sun. They are
+still sticky, but of a brown, mahogany colour. Among them are pieces
+of fibre and other "trash," as well as small, undersized beans, or
+"balloons," as the nearly empty shell of an unformed bean is called.
+While a man shovels the beans into a heap, a group of women, with
+skirts kilted high, tread round the sides of the heap, separating the
+beans that still hold together. Then the beans are passed on to be
+spread in layers on trays in the full heat of the tropical sun, the
+temperature being upwards of 140° F.[11] When thus spread, the women
+can readily pick out the foreign matter and undersized beans. Two or
+three days will suffice to dry them, after which they are put in bags
+for the markets of the world, and will keep with but very slight loss
+of weight or aroma for a year or more.
+
+Between crops the labourers are employed in "cutlassing," pruning,
+and cleaning the land and trees. Nearly all the work is in pleasant
+shade, and none of it harder than the duties of a market gardener in
+our own country; indeed, the work is less exacting, for daylight lasts
+at most but thirteen hours, limiting the time that a man can see in
+the forest: ten hours per day, with rests for meals, is the average
+time spent on the estate. Wages are paid once a month, and a whole
+holiday follows pay-day, when the stores in town are visited for
+needful supplies. Other holidays are not infrequent, and between crops
+the slacker days give ample time for the cultivation of private
+gardens.
+
+Labourers from India are largely imported by the Government under
+contract with the planters, and the strictest regulations are observed
+in the matter of housing, medical aid, etc. At the expiration of the
+term of contract (about six years) a free pass is granted to return to
+India, if desired. Many, however, prefer to remain in their adopted
+home, and become planters themselves, or continue to labour on the
+smaller estates, which are generally worked by free labour, as the
+preparations for contracted labour are expensive, and can only be
+undertaken on a large scale.
+
+[Illustration--Black and White Plate: Labourer's Cottage, Cacao Estate,
+Trinidad. (Bread Fruit and Bananas.)]
+
+The natives of India work on very friendly terms with the coloured
+people of the islands, the descendants of the old African slaves, and
+the cocoa estate provides a healthy life for all, with a home amid
+surroundings of the most congenial kind.[12]
+
+[Illustration--Drawing: BASKETS OF CACAO ON PLANTAIN LEAVES.]
+
+In other cocoa-growing countries processes vary somewhat. On the
+larger estates artificial drying is slowly superseding the natural
+method, for though the sun at its best is all that is needed, a
+showery day will seriously interfere with the process, even though the
+sliding roof is promptly pulled across to keep the rain from the
+trays.
+
+In Venezuela an old Spanish custom still prevails of sprinkling a fine
+red earth over the beans in the process of drying; this plan has
+little to recommend it, unless it be for the purpose of long storage
+in warehouses in the tropics, when the "claying" may protect the bean
+from mildew and preserve the aroma. In Ceylon it is usual to
+thoroughly wash the beans after the process of fermentation, thus
+removing all remains of the pulp, and rendering the shell more tender
+and brittle. Such beans arrive on the market in a more or less broken
+state, and it seems probable that they are more subject to
+contamination owing to the thinness of the shell. The best "estate"
+cocoa from Ceylon has a very bright, clear appearance, and commands a
+high price on the London market; this cocoa is of the pure _criollo_
+strain, light brown (pale burnt sienna) in colour.
+
+[Illustration--Colour Plate: CACAO TREE AND SEEDLING]
+
+The valleys of Trinidad and Grenada have grown cocoa for upwards of a
+hundred years, but up to the present time very little in the way of
+manuring has been done beyond the natural vegetable deposits of the
+forest. In many estates of recent years cattle have been quartered in
+temporary pens on the hills, moving on month by month, with a large
+central pen for the stock down on the savanna.
+
+The cocoa-beans are shipped to Europe in bags containing from one to
+one and a half hundredweight, and are disposed of by the London
+brokers nearly every Tuesday in the year at a special sale in the
+Commercial Sale Room in Mincing Lane.
+
+The cacao-tree has sometimes been grown from seed in hot-houses in
+this country, but always with difficulty, for not only must a mean
+temperature of at least 80° F. be maintained, but the tree must be
+shielded from all draught. Among the most successful are the trees
+grown by Mr. James Epps, Jun., of Norwood, by whose kind permission
+the accompanying sketches from life were made. Success has only
+crowned his efforts after many years of patient care. To grow a mere
+plant was comparatively simple, but to produce even a flower needed
+long tending, and involved much disappointment; while to secure
+fruition by cross-fertilization was a still more difficult task,
+accomplished in England probably on only one other occasion.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[10] For full information on the subject of planting, see Simmond's
+"Tropical Agriculture" (Spon, London and New York); Nicholl's
+"Tropical Agriculture" (Macmillan).
+
+[11] See plate facing p. 77.
+
+[12] See _frontispiece_.
+
+
+
+
+III. ITS MANUFACTURE.
+
+
+[Illustration--Black and White Plate: Bournville: "The Factory in
+a Garden."]
+
+[Illustration--Drawing: "ON ARRIVAL AT THE FACTORY".]
+
+Up to this point the operations described have taken place in the
+lands where cacao is produced. To watch the further processes in its
+development as an article of food, let us in imagination follow one of
+the shiploads of cacao on its sea journey from the far tropics to one
+of the countries of the old world, until the sacks of beans are
+finally deposited at a cocoa factory. An English factory, that of
+Messrs. Cadbury, at Bournville, affords an excellent illustration of
+its manufacture, not only because about a third of all the beans
+imported into this country are treated there, but also because this
+treatment is effected amid ideal surroundings. Half a century ago
+Messrs. Cadbury Brothers employed but a dozen or twenty hands, and
+until within the last twenty-six years the firm was established in the
+town of Birmingham. The need for greater accommodation for the rapidly
+growing business, and a desire to secure improved conditions for the
+work-people, led to the removal of the factory to a distance of about
+four miles south of the city. A number of cottages erected for the
+work-people in those early days became the nucleus of a great scheme
+which in the last few years has expanded into the model village of
+Bournville, a name taken from the neighbouring Bourn stream. Year by
+year the factory grew and developed, until the green hay-fields, with
+the trout stream flowing through them, became gradually covered with
+buildings. To-day the factory seems like a small town in itself,
+intersected by streets, and surrounded by its own railway. But the
+greenness of the country clings wherever a chance is afforded, ivy and
+other creepers adorning the brick walls, window boxes bright with
+flowers, and trees planted here and there; for no opportunity has been
+neglected of making the surroundings beautiful.
+
+[Illustration--Black and White Plate: Bournville Cocoa Works: Office
+Buildings.]
+
+Taking train from the city, glimpses can be caught, as we near our
+destination, of the pretty houses and gardens of the village, forming
+a great contrast to the densely populated district of Stirchley on the
+other side of the line. Stepping on to the station, we are greeted by
+a whiff of the most delicious fragrance, which is quite enough of
+itself to betray the whereabouts of the great factory lying beneath
+us, of which from this point we have a fairly good bird's-eye view.
+Down the station steps, and a few yards up the lane to the left, with
+a playing field on one side, and on the other a plantation of
+fir-trees almost hiding the red brick and timbered gables of the
+office buildings, and we have arrived at the factory lodge. Looking
+through the open door down a vista of archways bowered in clematis
+and climbing roses, with an alpine rock garden at each side of the
+broad walk, we might almost imagine ourselves to be at the entrance to
+some botanical gardens. But a glance at the thousands of check hooks
+covering the inner wall of the lodge informs us that more than 2,400
+girls pass in and out every day. The men's lodge is at a separate
+gate.
+
+Before entering the works, a few steps further along the road will
+give us some idea of the many advantages gained by moving the factory
+out into the country. Just opposite the lodge a sloping path leads to
+the cycle-house, where some 200 machines are stored during work hours.
+Beyond this, in the middle of a flower garden, stands the Estate
+Office of the Bournville Village Trust, and in the background higher
+up a girls' pavilion can be seen through the trees. Behind it stretch
+asphalt tennis-courts and playing-fields, bordered by a belt of fine
+old trees, under whose shade wind pretty shrubbery walks lined with
+rustic seats. A passage under the road leads straight from the
+works into these beautiful grounds, and on a summer's day few prettier
+sights could be found than the numbers of white-robed girls who stream
+across in the dinner-hour to revel in the sunshine of the open fields,
+or sit in groups beneath the shady trees, enjoying a picnic lunch. A
+little further along the road the trees and the rhododendron bushes
+sweep backwards, leaving an open space, where a smooth lawn reaches to
+the front of a fine old mansion, for many years used as a home for
+some fifty of the work-girls whose own homes are at a distance, or who
+have no home at all. The fruit gardens and vineries belonging to
+"Bournville Hall" are used for the benefit of work-people who are ill.
+
+[Illustration--Black and White Plate: Coronation Cricket Pavilion,
+Bournville.]
+
+Turning back again, we find on the other side of the road a
+magnificent pavilion, the Coronation gift of the firm to their
+employees, which overlooks the broad level stretch of one of the
+finest cricket grounds in the Midlands. Away in the hollow beyond, the
+Bourn forms a picturesque, shady pool, part of which is used to make a
+capital open-air swimming bath for the men. In the rising background
+are the pretty houses and the gardens of the model village. Still
+retracing our steps, we now come to the original cottages built by the
+firm. Plainer and less picturesque than those of more modern
+construction, their air of comfort, and the creepers which cover many
+of their walls, make them harmonize well with their surroundings. One
+of them is now used as a youths' club, providing games, a circulating
+library, and reading and lecture rooms. Another contains club rooms
+for the office staff. In passing we catch sight of a fine swimming
+bath for the girls.
+
+Through the lodge and under the clematis, a few steps bring us to the
+private railway-station, which in size would do credit to many a town.
+Here trucks are loaded with finished goods and despatched to their
+various destinations. Every working day of the year a long train,
+extending often in the busiest season to as many as forty truck-loads,
+steams out of this station to scatter the productions of Bournville
+over the face of the Earth. Close by the station we turn into the
+offices, where the fittings and general arrangement convey an air of
+refined solidity according well with the goods produced.
+
+[Illustration--Black and White Plate: Girls' Dining Hall, Bournville.]
+
+Before proceeding to study the manufacture of cocoa essence and
+chocolate from the bean as it is imported, it will be interesting to
+see the careful provision that is made for the health and cleanliness
+of the workers, for in connection with any food nothing is of greater
+importance than the circumstances attending its preparation. A
+gratuitous sick club is provided by the firm for the employees,
+including the services of a doctor and three trained nurses. A special
+retiring room, comfortably furnished, is provided for girls needing a
+quiet hour's rest.
+
+We are taken into the girls' dining-hall, capable of seating over two
+thousand at a time, fitted with benches, the backs of which are
+convertible into table tops. The far end of the dining-hall leads into
+the huge kitchen, to which the girls can bring their own dinners to be
+cooked, or where they can buy a large variety of things at
+coffee-house prices. Here again the health of the workers is carefully
+studied. Fruit is made a speciality, an experienced buyer being
+employed to insure its better supply. A private dining-room is
+provided for the forewomen.
+
+Returning to the dining-hall, we descend a flight of steps into the
+spacious dressing-rooms, with vistas of wooden screens, filled on each
+side with numbered hooks. Here every morning the thousands of girls
+not only divest themselves of their outer garments, but change their
+dresses for washing frocks of white holland. The material for these is
+provided by the firm, free for the first, and afterwards at less than
+cost price, and the girls are required to start work in a clean frock
+every Monday morning. It will be seen at once how this helps them to
+keep neat and respectable; their strong white washing frocks only
+being soiled by their work, after which they change back into their
+own unstained clothes, and turn out looking as great a contrast to the
+usually pictured type of factory girl as can be imagined. The
+forewomen also conform to this arrangement, but wear washing dresses
+of blue cotton to distinguish them from the girls. Round the walls of
+this vast dressing-room hot-water pipes are placed, and over these are
+shelves where on a rainy day wet boots can be deposited to dry.
+Specially thoughtful is the provision of rubber snow-shoes, imported
+from America for their use, and supplied under cost price. Beneath
+each stool, too, is a shelf for heavy boots, which can be replaced in
+the factory by slippers.
+
+[Illustration--Drawing: BOOT-SHELF ON STOOL.]
+
+Mention has already been made of the provision for illness or
+accidents, and of the care shown in the many arrangements for
+maintaining and improving the health and physical development of the
+girls. Further evidence of this is found in the airy and well-lighted
+work-rooms, from which funnels and exhaust fans collect and carry off
+all dust, and improve the ventilation, so that in spite of the
+multitudinous operations in progress, the whole place is kept as
+"spick and span" as a ship of the line. But another aggressive sign of
+the firm's belief in the motto _mens sana in corpore sano_ is the
+presence of a lady whose whole time is devoted to the physical culture
+of the girls. Trained in Swedish athletics, this lady and her
+assistant undertake the teaching, not only of gymnastics, but of
+swimming and numerous games. Every day drill classes are held, an
+opportunity being thus provided for all the younger girls to attend a
+half-hour's lesson twice a week.
+
+The result of all this thoughtful care is abundantly evident in the
+general air of health and comfort which pervades the whole factory,
+and in the bright faces which greet us at every turn, as we pass to
+and fro among the busy workers in this monster hive.
+
+[Illustration--Black and White Plate: The Dinner Hour, Bournville.]
+
+Entering now, and turning into the private station, we see thousands
+of sacks of the freshly-imported beans being transferred to the
+neighbouring stores. The new arrivals must first be sifted and picked
+over to get rid of any that may be unsound, or of any foreign material
+still remaining. This is accomplished by a sorting and winnowing
+machine, which delivers by separate shoots the cleaned beans, graded
+according to size, and the dust and foreign matter.
+
+A battery of roasters await the survivors of this operation, which are
+automatically conveyed to the hoppers. High-pressure steam supplies
+the requisite heat without waste or smoke, and as the huge drums
+slowly rotate, experienced workmen, on whose judgment great reliance
+is placed, carefully watch their contents, and decide when precisely
+the right degree of roasting has been attained to secure the richest
+aroma. Then they are passed through a cooling chamber, after which
+they are in condition for "breaking down."
+
+This consists in cracking the shells of the beans, and releasing the
+kernels or "nibs," from which the shells and dust are winnowed by a
+powerful blast. It is accomplished by carrying the beans mechanically
+to the cracking machine at a considerable height, whence husks and
+nibs are allowed to fall before the winnower: the separated nibs are
+assorted according to size. Some of the shells find their way to the
+Emerald Isle, to be used by the peasants for the weak infusion called
+"miserables."
+
+Now comes the important process of grinding, performed between
+horizontal mill-stones, the friction of which produces heat and melts
+the "butter," while it grinds the "nibs" till the whole mass flows,
+solidifying into a brittle cake when cold.
+
+The thick fluid of the consistency of treacle flowing from the
+grinding-mills is poured into round metal pots, the top and bottom of
+which are lined with pads of felt, and these are, when filled, put
+under a powerful hydraulic press, which extracts a large percentage of
+the natural oil or butter. The pressure is at first light, but as soon
+as the oil begins to flow the remaining mass in the press-pot is
+stiffened into the nature of indiarubber, and upon this it is safe to
+place any pressure that is desired. As it is not advisable to extract
+all the butter possible, the pressure is regulated to give the
+required result. In the end a firm, dry cake is taken from the press,
+and when cool is ground again to the consistency of flour; this is the
+"cocoa essence" for which the firm of Cadbury is so well known in all
+parts of the world.[13]
+
+Between cocoa and chocolate there are essential differences. Both are
+made from the cocoa nib, but whereas in cocoa the nibs are ground
+separately, and the butter extracted, in chocolate sugar and
+flavourings are added to the nib, and all are ground together into a
+paste, the sugar absorbing all the superfluous butter. If good quality
+cocoa is used, the butter contained in the nib is all that is needful
+to incorporate sugar and nib into one soft chocolate paste for
+grinding and moulding, but in the commoner chocolates extra cocoa
+butter has to be added. It is a regrettable fact that some
+unprincipled makers are tempted to use cheaper vegetable fats as
+substitutes for the natural butter, but none of these are really
+palatable or satisfactory in use, and none of the leading British
+firms are guilty of using such adulterants, or of the still more
+objectionable practice of grinding cocoa-shells and mixing them with
+their common chocolates.[14]
+
+Flavouring is introduced according to the object in view; vanilla is
+largely employed in this country, though in France and Spain cinnamon
+is used, and elsewhere various spices. Willoughby, in his "Travels in
+Spain" (1664), writes:
+
+     "To every three and a half pounds of powder they add two pounds
+     of sugar, twelve Vanillos, a little Guiny pepper (which is used
+     by the Spaniards only), and a little Achiote[15] to give a
+     colour. They melt the sugar, and then mingle all together, and
+     work it up either in rolls or leaves."
+
+     Another writer says: "The usual proportion at Madrid to a
+     hundred kernels of cocoa is to add two grains of Chile pepper,
+     a handful of anise, as many flowers--called by the natives
+     vinacaxtlides, or little ears--six white roses in powder, a pod
+     of campeche,[16] two drachms of cinnamon, a dozen almonds and
+     as many hazel-nuts, with achiote enough to give it a reddish
+     tincture; the sugar and vanilla are mixed at discretion, as
+     also the musk and ambergris. They frequently work this paste
+     with orange water, which they think gives it a greater
+     consistence and firmness."
+
+[Illustration--Black and White Plate: Bournville Village: Laburnum Road.]
+
+When the chocolate is sufficiently ground it is put into a stove to
+attain the correct temperature, and is then passed on to a
+moulding-table, where it is pressed into tin moulds, and shaken till
+it settles. After passing through a refrigerating chamber, the
+contents of these moulds are ready as cakes of hard chocolate for
+putting up in the well-known blue "Mexican," or the dark-red "Milk,"
+packets.
+
+It would, of course, be interesting to proceed to an inspection of the
+many processes involved in making all the dainties that are prepared
+with chocolate, and of the numerous trades concerned in the production
+of packages, boxes, and fancy cases, did space permit. Room after room
+might be visited, bright in the daylight, or equally well lighted by
+electricity at night, humming with busy machines; some peopled with
+girls--among whom only men wearing a certain badge on their arms are
+allowed--some with men and boys, but all vibrating with a genial air
+of content as well as of busy occupation. Suffice it to say that half
+the handicrafts of the town seem represented in this centre of
+industry, in every department of which order and cheerfulness reign
+supreme. Each would require a chapter to do it justice, for everything
+employed in packing seems to be made on the premises, and that, too,
+on a system of piece-work paid for, not at the lowest possible price,
+but on the basis of securing a satisfactory living wage to the average
+worker. No wonder the faces around are bright, no wonder that openings
+at the Bournville factory are in demand, and that long service for the
+firm is the boast of so many of the employees. Among these, a little
+band of about thirty still upholds the traditions of the old firm that
+laid the foundations of the present company in the city of Birmingham.
+
+[Illustration--Black and White Plate: Packing Room, Bournville.]
+
+The work hours are forty-eight each week, and the wages depend both
+on age and length of service, no man of twenty-three years of age and
+over twelve months' service receiving less than 24s. weekly. There are
+no deductions for sick club or fines, the sick fund, as before stated,
+being a free gift from the company. Offences and late time are entered
+in a record book, and an opportunity is given to wipe off all past
+records by two years' good service. The Athletic Club, with over 500
+voluntary subscribers, runs three cricket, four football, and two
+hockey teams, besides bowling, tennis, swimming, and other sports. One
+of the most interesting events of the Cricket Club is the annual match
+with a team representing Messrs. Fry and Sons, of Bristol, the oldest
+established cocoa firm in this country. In friendly opposition to the
+"Bournville Club" are the teams drawn from the "Youths' Club," and
+other outside organizations. A summer camp of over a hundred boys has
+been successfully held at the seaside for some years past.
+
+[Illustration--Drawing: SUGGESTION BOX.]
+
+The recent introduction of the system of suggestion-boxes throughout
+the works has been a great success. All employees are invited to make
+suggestions, which are dealt with each week by two committees, one for
+the men and one for the girls. Prizes amounting to about £80 are
+offered every half-year for the best suggestions. During the first
+seven months of operation over 1,000 suggestions were received, a very
+large percentage of which were found sufficiently useful to be
+adopted. The result has been to draw all sections closer together,
+as each feels sure of getting due credit for original ideas. Many
+important alterations in organization and methods of working have been
+carried into effect, entirely owing to this scheme.[17]
+
+[Illustration--Black and White Plate: Bournville Village: Linden Road.]
+
+In order to encourage thrift (at the same time insuring privacy), a
+Savings Fund on a novel system has been working successfully for
+several years at Bournville. The fund was opened in Jubilee year by
+gifts of £1 to each employee who had been three years in the service
+of the firm, and 10s. to those employed for a shorter time. Deposits
+are received, and amounts withdrawn in the usual way during the year,
+through collectors in each department, the depositors' cards being
+called in quarterly for audit. At the end of each financial year, in
+May, interest at the rate of four per cent. is added to the amount
+standing to the credit of each depositor, and the whole amount paid
+over to the Post Office Savings Bank. At this time also, Post Office
+officials attend at the works, and enter the amounts to the credit of
+each depositor, issuing new Post Office Savings books where necessary.
+This system secures absolute privacy for the permanent savings, and
+places the fund upon a secure basis. As some evidence that the scheme
+is appreciated, it may be stated that the total balance transferred to
+the Post Office Savings Bank has averaged over £3,200 per annum.
+
+While in the district of Bournville, the opportunity must not be lost
+of becoming more closely acquainted with the village around the works.
+Away beyond the factory stretches an estate of nearly 500 acres, set
+apart for the purpose of "alleviating the evils which arise from the
+insanitary and insufficient accommodation supplied to large numbers of
+the working classes, and of securing to workers in factories some of
+the advantages of outdoor village life, with opportunities for the
+natural and healthful occupation of cultivating the soil." As yet only
+some 450 houses have been erected, pretty, picturesque cottages all of
+them, for the most part semi-detached, each on its sixth of an acre,
+more or less, housing in all a population of about 2,000.
+
+[Illustration--Black and White Plate: Fishing Pool, Bournville.]
+
+It was compassion for the ill-housed work-people of Birmingham that
+led Mr. George Cadbury, the founder of the village, to undertake so
+splendid a task, and having accomplished it, he crowned it by making a
+gift of the whole to the nation, placing its administration in the
+hands of a Trust. In doing so he laid down ideal stipulations for its
+development, and for the regulation of the villages which may in the
+future be built out of the income of the Trust. The principal of these
+are that factories or workshops shall never occupy more than one
+fifteenth of the area; that no house shall occupy more than one-fourth
+of the ground allotted to it; that in addition to wide roads and the
+ample gardens thus secured, one-tenth of the area shall be reserved
+for public open spaces for ever, parts of which are to be used as
+children's playgrounds. At present no intoxicants are sold or prepared
+on the estate, and if ever the trustees should see fit to permit this,
+it is to be as a co-operative undertaking, the profits of which shall
+"be devoted to securing for the village community recreation and
+counter-attraction to the liquor trade as ordinarily conducted."
+
+Such a scheme affords a model for public bodies tackling the housing
+problem in earnest, and is fraught with great hopes for the future.
+The annual income, nearly £6,000, is to be applied first to the
+development of this estate, and subsequently to the purchase of
+estates near Birmingham or other large towns, and the establishment of
+new villages thereon. A most important feature is, that although the
+rents are calculated to yield a fair return on the cost, including a
+proportion of development expenses, they are so low that a five-roomed
+cottage with bath and every convenience can be had for the rent of a
+two-roomed hovel in the slums. About two-fifths of the householders
+find employment in the cocoa works, the rest in the adjoining villages
+or in Birmingham.
+
+[Illustration--Black and White Plate: Almshouse Quadrangle, Bournville.]
+
+The gardens are a special feature, and before the houses are let, they
+are laid out by the Trust, and planted with fruit trees. All are well
+worked, and an average yield in vegetables and fruit of nearly two
+shillings a week has been found possible, equivalent to something like
+£60 an acre--more than twelve times as much food as would be produced
+if under pasturage. Two professional gardeners, with several men under
+them, are employed to look after the gardening department, and they
+are always ready to give any information or advice required by the
+tenants, so that the cottage gardens may be cultivated to the utmost
+profit. At present the public buildings consist of a village inn and
+baths; a school is shortly to be erected. Building is being steadily
+proceeded with, and although the development of the estate may be
+somewhat slow at first, it will advance with growing rapidity as the
+revenue increases. No wonder that there is an omnipresent air of
+comfort and prosperity, or that the death-rate is only about eight per
+thousand, in comparison with nineteen in the neighbouring city.
+
+No description of Bournville would be complete without a mention of
+its picturesque alms-houses. Here a haven of rest is provided for
+some of those who, in their best years, have rendered faithful service
+to the firm. Thirty-three independent houses, brick and stone built,
+each with its own doorway to the quiet greensward, and its windows to
+the sun, form an inviting, reposeful quadrangle. They were the last
+gift of a life devoted to the interests of others, and the happiness
+and peace which characterize them are fitting memorials of the late
+Richard Cadbury, the elder of the two brothers who founded this great
+industry, and who have in their lives been favoured to see such untold
+blessing upon their labours.
+
+
+[Illustration--Colour Plate: Section of a Chocolate Factory.]
+
+SECTION OF A CHOCOLATE FACTORY.
+
+     The accompanying diagram of a chocolate factory is reproduced
+     by kind permission of the Berlin publishers of Dr. Paul
+     Zipperer's well-known work on "The Manufacture of Chocolate,"
+     which contains much valuable information. The machinery
+     described is that of Messrs. Lehmann, of Dresden, one of the
+     largest makers on the Continent.
+
+By means of the lift (1) all the raw materials, sugar, cocoa, packing,
+etc., are carried up to the store-rooms (2). Here are the machines for
+cleansing and picking the raw cocoa-beans, which are fed into the
+elevator boxes (3) above the cleansing machine (4), which frees them
+from dust; they then pass to the continuous band (5) on which they are
+picked over, and from which they fall into movable boxes (6). They are
+thence transferred to the hoppers (7), and fed by opening a slide in
+the hopper, into the roasting machine (8). The quantity contained in
+the hoppers is sufficient to charge the roasting machine. When the
+roasting is completed the cocoa is emptied into trucks (9), and
+carried to the exhaust arrangement (10), where the beans are cooled
+down, the vapour given off passing out into the open air. At the same
+time the air of the roasting chamber is sucked out through the
+funnel-shaped tube fitted to the cover. The roasted cocoa is then
+passed to boxes (11), to be conveyed by the elevator to the crushing
+and cleansing machine (12). After being cleansed, the cocoa is carried
+in trucks (13) to hoppers (14) by which it is fed into the mills (15)
+on the lower floor. The sugar mill and sifting apparatus (26) placed
+near the crushing and cleansing machines are also fed by a hopper from
+above. Cocoa and sugar are now supplied to the mixing machine (16), to
+be worked together before passing to the rolls (17) by which the final
+grinding is effected. After passing once or more through the mill, the
+finished chocolate mass is taken to the hot-room (18), where it
+remains in boxes until further treated, after which it is taken to the
+moulding-room. In the mixer (19) the mass acquires the consistency and
+temperature requisite for moulding. The mass is then taken in lumps to
+the dividing machine (20), and cut into pieces of the desired size and
+weight. On the table (21) the moulds, lying upon boards, are filled
+with chocolate and then taken to the shaking-table (22). By means of a
+double lift (23) the moulded chocolate, still lying upon boards, is
+conveyed to the cooling-room or cellar, in which there are benches or
+frames (24) for receiving the moulds as they are slipped off the
+boards. The cellar has to be cooled artificially, according to
+situation. Adjoining the cellar is the wrapping-room (25), and further
+on the warehouse. The goods so far finished are then taken by the lift
+(1) to the rooms where they are packed for delivery.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[13] For ancient processes see Appendix I., p. 103.
+
+[14] "Chocolate is an article so disguised in the manufacture that it
+is impossible to tell its purity or value. The only safeguard is to
+buy that which bears the name of a reputable maker."--Chambers,
+"Manual of Diet."
+
+[15] The heart-leaved bixa, or anotta.
+
+[16] Log-wood.
+
+[17] The regulations adopted are so interesting that a place has been
+found for them in an Appendix (p. 106).
+
+
+
+
+IV. ITS HISTORY.
+
+[Illustration--Drawing: [_From Dufour._]
+OLD DRAWING OF AN AMERICAN INDIAN, WITH CHOCOLATE-POT AND WHISK.]
+
+Although now cultivated in many other tropical countries, the cacao
+tree is one of the New World's rich gifts, first made known to our
+ancestors by the venturesome Spaniards, who probably became acquainted
+with its cultivation early in the sixteenth century, and spread the
+knowledge derived from the Mexicans and the inhabitants of Central
+America to their other colonies. They found cacao a more veritable
+mine of wealth than even the gold of which they procured such store.
+It is indeed a curious coincidence that in those countries of gold the
+cacao-beans were not only the form in which tribute was paid, but
+themselves passed as currency. On account of their use for this
+purpose by the Mexicans, Peter Martyr styled them _amygdalæ
+pecuniariæ_--"pecuniary almonds"--exclaiming: "Blessed money, which
+exempts its possessors from avarice, since it cannot be hoarded or
+hidden underground!"
+
+Joseph Acosta tells us that "the Indians used no gold nor silver to
+trafficke in or buy withall ... and unto this day (1604) the custom
+continues amongst the Indians, as in the province of Mexico, instede
+of money they use cacao." The Aztecs also made use of cacao in this
+way, as many as 8,000 beans being legal tender--rather a task, one
+would imagine, for the money-changers.
+
+[Illustration--Black and White Plate: Native Americans Preparing
+and Cooking Cocoa. _Ogibe's "America," 1671._]
+
+In Nicaragua this practice was so general that "none but the rich and
+noble could afford to drink it, as it was literally drinking money."
+A rabbit sold there for ten beans, "a tolerably good slave" for a
+hundred. Slaves must, however, have been at a discount just then, if
+the silver value of the beans was no greater than when Thomas Candish
+wrote in 1586: "These cacaos serve amongst them both for meat and
+money ... 150 of them being as good as a Real of Plate"--about 6d. "A
+bag," of unknown size, "was worth ten crowns." One of the storehouses
+of Montezuma, the last of the old independent Mexican Chieftains,[18]
+was found by the Spaniards to contain as much as 40,000 loads of this
+precious commodity, in wicker baskets which six men could not grasp.
+
+John Ogilby, writing in 1671 of the produce of America, says:
+
+     "But much more beneficial is the cacao, with which Fruit New
+     Spain drives a great Trade; nay, serves for Coin'd Money. When
+     they deliver a Parcel of Cacao, they tell them by five, thirty,
+     and a hundred. Their Charity to the Poor never exceeds above
+     one Cacao-nut. The chief Reason for which this Fruit is so
+     highly esteem'd, is for the Chocolate, which is made of the
+     same, without which the Inhabitants (being so us'd to it) are
+     not able to live. Before the Spaniards made themselves Masters
+     of Mexico, no other Drink was esteem'd but that of the Cacao;
+     none caring for Wine, notwithstanding the Soil produces Vines
+     everywhere in great Abundance of itself."
+
+From contemporary travellers' records are to be gleaned many such
+strange facts and stranger fancies regarding the precious bean and its
+products, some of them extremely quaint and curious. Bancroft, for
+instance, writing of the Maya races of the Pacific, tells us that
+"before planting the seed they held a festival in honour of their
+gods, Ekchuah, Chac, and Hobnil, who were their patron deities. To
+solemnize it, they all went to the plantation of one of their number,
+where they sacrificed a dog having a spot on its skin the colour of
+cacao. They burned incense to their idols, after which they gave to
+each of the officials a branch of the cacao plant." Palacio also tells
+us that "the Pipiles, before beginning to plant, gathered all seeds in
+small bowls, after performing certain rites with them before the idol,
+among which was the drawing of blood from different parts of the body
+with which to anoint the idol;" and, as Ximinez states, "the blood of
+slain fowls was sprinkled over the land to be sown."
+
+[Illustration--Drawing: [_From Bontekoe._]
+A CACAO PLANTATION.
+(_One of the earliest illustrations of this subject known, showing the
+shade trees, and beans drying._)]
+
+The idea that secret rites were necessary at the planting of cacao to
+counteract their ignorance of its requirements was long current also
+among the superstitious Spaniards, who similarly accounted for the
+early failures of the English, as witness the following amusing
+extract from a contribution to the _Harleian Miscellany_ in 1690:
+
+     "Cocoa is now a commodity to be regarded in our colonies,
+     though at first it was the principal invitation to the peopling
+     of Jamaica, for those walks the Spaniards left behind them
+     there, when we conquered it, produced such prodigious profit
+     with so little trouble that Sir Thomas Modiford and several
+     others set up their rests to grow wealthy therein, and fell to
+     planting much of it, which the Spanish slaves had always
+     foretold would never thrive, and so it happened: for, though it
+     promised fair and throve finely for five or six years, yet
+     still at that age, when so long hopes and cares had been wasted
+     upon it, withered and died away by some unaccountable cause,
+     though they imputed it to a black worm or grub, which they
+     found clinging to its roots.... And did it not almost
+     constantly die before, it would come into perfection in fifteen
+     years' growth and last till thirty, thereby becoming the most
+     profitable tree in the world, there having been £200 sterling
+     made in one year of an acre of it. But the old trees, being
+     gone by age and few new thriving, as the Spanish negroes
+     foretold, little or none now is produced worthy the care and
+     pains in planting and expecting it. Those slaves gave a
+     superstitious reason for its not thriving, many religious
+     rites being performed at its planting by the Spaniards, which
+     their slaves were not permitted to see. But it is probable
+     that, where a nation as they removed the art of making
+     cochineal and curing vanilloes into their inland provinces,
+     which were the commodities of those islands in the Indians'
+     time, and forbade the opening of any mines in them for fear
+     some maritime nation might be invited to the conquering of
+     them, so they might, likewise, in their transplanting cocoa
+     from the Caracas and Guatemala, conceal wilfully some secret in
+     its planting from their slaves, lest it might teach them to set
+     up for themselves by being able to produce a commodity of such
+     excellent use for the support of man's life, with which alone
+     and water some persons have been necessitated to live ten weeks
+     together, without finding the least diminution of health or
+     strength."
+
+[Illustration--Black and White Plate: Grenada, B.W.I.: Samaritan Estate
+(Showing trays which slide on rails; the iron covers slide over the
+whole in case of wet.)]
+
+However valuable this last quality rendered the newly-discovered
+drink, its method of preparation and the unwonted spices employed
+prevented its ready adoption abroad, although the Spaniards and
+Portuguese took to it more kindly than some of the northern races.
+Joseph Acosta, writing of Mexico and Peru, says:
+
+     "The cocoa is a fruite little less than almonds, yet more
+     fatte, the which being roasted hath no ill taste. It is so much
+     esteemed among the Indians (yea, among the Spaniards), that it
+     is one of the richest and the greatest traffickes of New Spain.
+     The chief use of this cocoa is in a drincke which they call
+     chocholaté, whereof they make great account, foolishly and
+     without reason: for it is loathsome to such as are not
+     acquainted with it, having a skumme or frothe that is very
+     unpleasant to taste, if they be not well conceited thereof. Yet
+     it is a drincke very much esteemed among the Indians, whereof
+     they feast noble men as they passe through their country. The
+     Spaniards, both men and women, that are accustomed to the
+     country, are very greedy of this chocholaté. They say they make
+     diverse sortes of it, some hote, some colde, and put therein
+     much of that chili: yea, they make paste thereof, the which
+     they say is good for the stomacke, and against the catarre."
+
+But this was not the only medicinal property attributed to "the food
+of the gods," for the Aztecs used to prescribe as a cure for
+diarrhoea and dysentery a potion prepared of cacao mixed with the
+ground bones of their giant ancestors, exhumed in the mountains. Such
+a very active principle was sure to make its enemies too, and several
+amusing attacks have survived to witness their own refutation. It was
+regarded by some as a violent inflamer of the passions, which should
+be prohibited to the monks; for, as one writer puts it, "if such an
+interdiction had existed, the scandal with which that holy order has
+been branded might have proved groundless." As late as 1712, after its
+use had become established in this country, the mentor of the
+_Spectator_ writes: "I shall also advise my fair readers to be in a
+particular manner careful how they meddle with romances, chocolates,
+novels, and the like inflamers, which I look upon as very dangerous to
+be made use of during this great carnival" (the month of May).
+
+[Illustration--Drawing: MEXICAN DRINKING-VESSELS, ROLLING-PIN AND WHISK.]
+
+Some accounted for the assumed ill-effects of cocoa to its admixture
+with sugar in the form of chocolate, for a few years earlier a London
+doctor had declared that "coffee, chocolate, and tea were at the first
+used only as medicines while they continued unpleasant, but since they
+were made delicious with sugar they are become poison." Similarly, an
+anonymous assailant in a pamphlet "Printed at the Black Boy, over
+against St. Dunstan's Church, in Fleet Street," exclaims:
+
+     "As for the great quantity of sugar which is commonly put in,
+     it may destroy the native and genuine temper of the chocolate,
+     sugar being such a corrosive salt, and such an hypocritical
+     enemy of the body. Simeon Pauli (a learned Dane) thinks sugar
+     to be one cause of our English consumption, and Dr. Willis
+     blames it as one of our universal scurvies: therefore, when
+     chocolate produces any ill effects, they may be often imputed
+     to the great superfluity of its sugar."
+
+[Illustration--Black and White Plate: Cacao Tree, Trinidad.]
+
+In the New World fewer questions were raised, and the only
+conscientious objection appears to have been felt by a Bishop of
+Chiapa, whose performance of the Mass was disturbed by its use. The
+story is told in Gaze's "New Survey of the West Indies," published in
+1648, and is worth repetition. It is well to bear in mind his
+information that "two or three hours after a good meal of three or
+four dishes of mutton, veal or beef, kid, turkeys or other fowles, our
+stomackes would bee ready to faint, and so wee were fain to support
+them with a cup of chocolatte."
+
+     "The women of that city, it seems, pretend much weakness and
+     squeamishness of stomacke, which they say is so great that they
+     are not able to continue in church while the mass is briefly
+     hurried over, much lesse while a solemn high mass is sung and a
+     sermon preached, unles they drinke a cup of hot chocolatte and
+     eat a bit of sweetmeats to strengthen their stomackes. For this
+     purpose it was much used by them to make their maids bring them
+     to church, in the middle of mass or sermon, a cup of
+     chocolatte, which could not be done to all without a great
+     confusion and interrupting both mass and sermon. The Bishop,
+     perceiving this abuse, and having given faire warning for the
+     omitting of it, but all without amendment, thought fit to fix
+     in writing upon the church dores an excommunication against all
+     such as should presume at the time of service to eate or
+     drinke within the church. This excommunication was taken by
+     all, but especially by the gentlewomen, much to heart, who
+     protested, if they might not eate or drinke in the church, they
+     could not continue in it to hear what otherwise they were bound
+     unto. But none of these reasons would move the Bishop. The
+     women, seeing him so hard to be entreated, began to slight him
+     with scornefull and reproachfull words: others slighted his
+     excommunication, drinking in iniquity in the church, as the
+     fish doth water, which caused one day such an uproar in the
+     Cathedrall that many swordes were drawn against the Priests,
+     who attempted to take away from the maids the cups of
+     chocolatte which they brought unto their mistresses, who at
+     last, seeing that neither faire nor foule means would prevail
+     with the Bishop, resolved to forsake the Cathedrall: and so
+     from that time most of the city betooke themselves to the
+     Cloister Churches, where by the Nuns and Fryers they were not
+     troubled....
+
+     "The Bishop fell dangerously sick. Physicians were sent for far
+     and neere, who all with a joynt opinion agreed that the Bishop
+     was poisoned. A gentlewoman, with whom I was well acquainted,
+     was commonly censured to have prescribed such a cup of
+     chocolatte to be ministered by the Page, which poisoned him who
+     so rigorously had forbidden chocolatte to be drunk in the
+     church. Myself heard this gentlewoman say that the women had no
+     reason to grieve for him, and that she judged, he being such an
+     enemy to chocolatte in the Church, that which he had drunk in
+     his house had not agreed with his body. And it became
+     afterwards a Proverbe in that country: 'Beware of the
+     chocolatte of Chiapa!' ... that poisoning and wicked city,
+     which truly deserves no better relation than what I have given
+     of the simple Dons and the chocolatte-confectioning Doñas."
+
+It was only natural that the nuns and friars of the cloister churches
+should raise no objection to this practice of chocolate drinking, for
+we read further that two of these cloisters were "talked off far and
+near, not for their religious practices, but for their skill in making
+drinkes which are used in those parts, the one called chocolatte,
+another atolle. Chocolatte is (also) made up in boxes, and sent not
+only to Mexico, but much of it yearly transported to Spain."
+
+[Illustration--Drawing: MODERN MEXICAN COCOA WHISK WITH LOOSE RINGS.
+(_Brought home by the author._)]
+
+The introduction of cocoa into Europe, indeed, as well as its
+cultivation for the European market, is due rather to the Jesuit
+missionaries than to the explorers of the Western Hemisphere. It was
+the monks, too, who about 1661 made it known in France. It is curious,
+therefore, to notice the contest that at one time raged among
+ecclesiastics as to whether it was lawful to make use of chocolate in
+Lent; whether it was to be regarded as food or drink. A consensus of
+opinion on the subject, published in Venice in 1748, states that
+
+     "Among the first Probabilist Theologians who undertook to write
+     entire Treatises and to collect all the possible reasons as to
+     whether the Indian beverage (chocolate) could agree with
+     European fasting, was Father Tommaso Hurtado. He employed the
+     whole of the Tenth Treatise of the second volume of the 'Moral
+     Resolutions,' printed in 1651, and added thereto an Appendix of
+     more chapters.
+
+     "Father Diana found reason for acquitting the consciences of
+     those who, in time of fasting, should drink chocolate. Father
+     Hurtado, more courageous withal, and more benign than Diana,
+     does not speak of this treatise in order to investigate the
+     law; the nature of fasting admits drinking without eating.
+     Therefore consumers are, without the help of casuists, troubled
+     themselves and afflicted, when in Lent they empty chocolate
+     cups. Excited on the one hand by the pungent cravings of the
+     throat to moisten it, reproved on the other by breaking their
+     fast, they experience grave remorse of conscience; and, with
+     consciences agitated and torn with drinking the sweet beverage,
+     they sin. Under the guidance of these skilful theologians, the
+     remorse aroused by natural and Divine light being blunted,
+     Christians drink joyfully. For all agree that he will break his
+     fast who eats any portion of chocolate, which, dissolved and
+     well mixed with warm water, is not prejudicial to keeping a
+     fast. This is a sufficiently marvellous presupposition. He who
+     eats 4 ozs. of exquisite sturgeon roasted has broken his fast;
+     if he has it dissolved and prepared in an extract of thick
+     broth, he does not sin."
+
+As for the introduction of cocoa into this country, the contemporary
+Gaze tells us that
+
+     "Our English and Hollanders make little use of it when they
+     take a prize at sea, as, not knowing the secret virtue and
+     quality of it for the good of the stomach, of whom I have heard
+     the Spaniards say, when we have taken a good prize, a ship
+     laden with cocoa, in anger and wrath we have hurled overboard
+     this good commodity, not regarding the worth of it."
+
+About the time of the Commonwealth, however, the new drink began to
+make its way among the English, and the _Public Advertiser_ of 1657
+contains the notice that "in Bishopsgate Street, in Queen's Head
+Alley, at a Frenchman's house, is an excellent West India drink,
+called chocolate, to be sold, where you may have it ready at any time,
+and also unmade, at reasonable rates." These rates appear to have been
+from 10s. to 15s. a pound, a price which made chocolate, rather than
+coffee, the beverage of the aristocracy, who flocked to the
+chocolate-houses soon to spring up in the fashionable centres. Here,
+records a Spanish visitor to London, were to be found such members of
+the polite world as were not at the same time members of either House.
+The chocolate-houses were thus the forerunners of our modern clubs,
+and one of them, "The Cocoa Tree," early the headquarters of the
+Jacobite party, became subsequently recognised as the club of the
+literati, including among its members such men as Garrick and Byron.
+White's Cocoa House, adjoining St. James' Palace, was even better
+known, eventually developing into the respectable White's Club, though
+at one time a great gambling centre.[19]
+
+[Illustration--Black and White Plate: White's Club, on left of St.
+James's Palace. (_From a Drawing of the time of Queen Anne._)]
+
+A little later the "Indian Nectar," recommended by a learned doctor on
+account of "its secret virtue," was to be obtained of "an honest
+though poor man" in East Smithfield at 6s. 8d. a pound, or the
+"commoner sort at about half the price," so that it was getting within
+more general reach. Subsequently the following advertisement appeared
+regarding a patented preparation of cocoa "now sold at 4s. 9d. per
+pound."
+
+"N.B.--The curious may be supplied with this superfine chocolate, that
+exceeds the finest sold by other makers, plain at 6s., with vanillos
+at 7s. To be sold for ready money only at Mr. Churchman's Chocolate
+Warehouse, at Mr. John Young's, in St. Paul's Churchyard, London, A.D.
+1732."
+
+The opportunities of increasing the revenue from the growing
+favourite were not lost sight of, and till 1820 its spread was checked
+by a duty of 1s. 6d. a pound, collected by the sale of stamped
+wrappers for each pound, half-pound, or quarter-pound, "neither more
+nor less," just as in the case of patent medicines at present.
+
+In the reign of George III. the duty on colonial cocoa was raised to
+1s. 10d. a pound, that on such as the East India Company imported to
+2s., and that on all other sources of supply to 3s. In the early years
+of the last century the cocoa imported from any country not a British
+possession was charged no less than 5s. 10d. a pound as excise, with
+an extra Custom's duty of from 2½d. to 4¾d. on entry for home
+consumption. This restrictive tariff was by degrees relaxed, but it is
+only since 1853 that the duty has been reduced to 2d. a pound on the
+manufactured article, or 1d. a pound on the raw material.
+
+While the heavy duties were in force, all houses in which the
+manufacture or sale of cocoa was carried on were compelled to have
+the fact stated over their doors, under penalty of £200 from the
+dealer having more than six pounds in his possession (who had to be
+licensed), and £100 from the customer encouraging the illicit trade.
+No less than £500 as fine and twelve months in the county gaol were
+inflicted for counterfeiting the stamp or selling chocolate without a
+stamp. To prevent evasion by selling the drink ready made, it was
+enacted under George I., whose physicians were extolling its medicinal
+virtues, that
+
+     "Notice shall be given by those who make chocolate for private
+     families, and not for sale, three days before it is begun to be
+     made, specifying the quantity, etc., and within three days
+     after it is finished the person for whom it is made shall enter
+     the whole quantity on oath, and have it duly stamped."
+
+Nothing is more eloquent of the growing favour in which cocoa is held
+in this country, as its real value becomes more generally appreciated,
+than the remarkable progressive increase of the quantities imported
+during recent years, as will be seen from the table appended. These
+quantities doubled between 1880 and 1890, and have since more than
+doubled again.
+
+
+  TABLE SHOWING THE QUANTITIES OF CACAO CLEARED
+  FOR HOME CONSUMPTION SINCE 1880.
+
+                     lbs.
+     1880         10,556,159
+     1881         10,897,795
+     1882         11,996,853
+     1883         12,868,170
+     1884         13,976,891
+     1885         14,595,168
+     1886         15,165,714
+     1887         15,873,698
+     1888         18,227,017
+     1889         18,464,164
+     1890         20,224,175
+     1891         21,599,860
+     1892         20,797,283
+     1893         20,874,995
+     1894         22,441,048
+     1895         24,484,502
+     1896         24,523,428
+     1897         27,852,152
+     1898         32,087,084
+     1899         34,013,812
+     1900         37,829,326
+     1901         42,353,724
+     1902         45,643,784
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[18] Not an "Emperor," as reported by his conquerors.
+
+[19] See Appendix III.
+
+
+[Illustration--Colour Plate: CHART SHOWING THE POSITIONS OF THE
+PRINCIPAL COCOA PLANTATIONS OF THE WORLD.]
+
+
+
+
+V. ITS SOURCES AND VARIETIES.
+
+
+[Illustration--Drawing: SACKS OF CACAO BEANS.]
+
+Guayaquil, in the republic of Ecuador, on the west coast of South
+America, produces the largest output in the world. This cacao has a
+bold bean and a fine flavour, and is rich in theobromine; it is much
+valued on the market, and its strength and character render it
+indispensable to the manufacturer.
+
+The neighbouring countries of Columbia and Venezuela, facing the
+Caribbean Sea, have for centuries grown cacao of excellent quality.
+The _criollo_ (creole) bean is generally used as seed, and for it high
+prices are obtained. Owing, however, to the unsettled state of the
+republics and their unstable governments, its cultivation has gone
+back rather than forward during the past decade. With better
+administration and settled peace, great developments might easily be
+achieved. The British Royal Mail Steam Packet Company provides a good
+fortnightly service to England.
+
+In early times the Jesuit missionaries encouraged the natives to form
+small plantations on the borders of the river Orinoco, and Father
+Gumilla, in his "History of the Orinoco," says: "I have seen in these
+plains forests of wild cacao-trees, laden with bunches of pods,
+supplying food to an infinite multitude of monkeys, squirrels,
+parrots, and other animals."
+
+The name of "Soconosco" cocoa is still a guarantee of excellent
+quality. This district in Guatemala was in bygone days so noted for
+its cacao that the whole crop was monopolized for the use of the
+Spanish Court. In Central America, as in other countries, the
+Spaniards gathered more solid riches from the cacao than from the gold
+mines they hoped to discover.
+
+[Illustration--Black and White Plate: A Scene in the Maracas Valley,
+Trinidad.]
+
+British and Dutch Guiana produced but little cacao as long as sugar
+realized high prices, but in comparatively recent years it has been
+more extensively planted, and the crops from the lowlands at the
+mouths of the great South American rivers have been very heavy.
+
+In French Guiana cacao was scarcely cultivated until about 1734, when
+a forest of it was discovered on a branch of the Yari, which flows
+into the Amazon. From this forest seeds were gathered, and plantations
+were laid out in Cayenne.
+
+The cacao of Pará in Brazil differs from all other growths; the bean
+is much smaller and rounder, and is elongated, but when well cured it
+is mild, and has a very pleasant flavour, highly valued by
+manufacturers. Bahia produces large quantities of cacao, formerly of
+an inferior quality, owing to careless cultivation and indiscriminate
+mixing of all that was brought from the interior, some of it wild and
+uncured. But now this state of things is being improved, and the good
+quality of "fermented" Bahian cacao is fully recognised.
+
+A little cacao is grown in the low-lying parts of Rio Janeiro, but it
+is not to be met with further south than this. The part of Florida
+which borders the Gulf of Mexico and the southern part of Louisiana
+mark the northerly limit of its natural growth.[20] A traveller in
+Louisiana in 1796 speaks of the cacao-tree among others as "covering
+with delightful shade the shores of the Mississippi," and on the banks
+of the Alatamaha in Georgia, but it is not cultivated so far north.
+
+At the present day the West India Islands rival the South American
+Continent in providing cocoa from the New World. Trinidad has for more
+than a century deservedly claimed to be the first of these
+cocoa-producing islands. As far back as the sixteenth century the
+Spaniards who first colonized the island were interested in the
+cultivation of cacao. In the year 1780 a French gentleman residing in
+the neighbouring island of Grenada visited Trinidad, and gave such a
+glowing account of its fertility that agriculturists from France
+and elsewhere flocked to the colony, and ever since this date it has
+maintained a high standard of agricultural advance. The names of the
+cacao estates at the present day are nearly all Spanish or French, and
+throughout the British occupation of more than a hundred years the old
+families have in many cases held the same lands.[21]
+
+[Illustration--Colour Plate: MAP OF TRINIDAD.]
+
+The oldest estates in the island lie in the northern valleys of Santz
+Cruz, Maracas, and Arima; but cultivation has been considerably
+extended in the Montserrat and Naparima districts, and more recently
+in almost every part of the island reached by the extension of the
+railway and the coasting steamboat. The Trinidad bean is the largest
+and finest flavoured, and commands a higher price on the market than
+any other from the West Indies.
+
+[Illustration--Drawing: MAP OF GRENADA, BRITISH WEST INDIES.]
+
+Next in importance to Trinidad is the little island of Grenada; here
+cacao is the staple industry, the sugar estates that once lined the
+shores having entirely disappeared. Grenada cacao is smaller than that
+of Trinidad, possibly on account of the different method of planting
+described in a previous chapter, but the flavour of the bean is
+exceedingly good and regular, and the crop is bought up eagerly on the
+British and American markets. The other West Indian islands producing
+cocoa are Jamaica and Dominica, where its cultivation is reviving;
+also St. Lucia, St. Vincent, Tobago, and Montserrat, each of which
+have a few plantations; those in St. Vincent suffered severely by the
+recent hurricane. The French islands of Guadeloupe and Martinique
+supply exclusively to the port of Havre; the cocoa from San Domingo is
+of a somewhat inferior quality. Cuba will probably considerably extend
+its output under American rule.
+
+[Illustration--Black and White Plate: A Hill Cacao Estate, Grenada, B.W.I.]
+
+[Illustration--Drawing: MAP OF PRINCIPE.]
+
+In the Eastern Hemisphere by far the largest supplies come from the
+small islands of St. Thomé and Principe, in the Gulf of Guinea,
+belonging to the Portuguese. These have in recent years proved
+especially adapted for the growth of the cacao, and the exports,
+especially from the island of St. Thomé, are very large; most of the
+crop finds its way to European markets, transhipping at Lisbon. There
+is little cacao grown in the mainland African colonies, though the
+German Government offers special inducements in the Kameruns; no
+British African colony grows it to any extent. Fernando Po sends
+supplies to Spain, and occasionally on the London market strange
+packages made of rough cowhide stitched with leather thongs are seen,
+containing beans from Madagascar.
+
+[Illustration--Drawing: MAP OF S. THOMÉ.]
+
+[Illustration--Black and White Plate: Ceylon: Carting Cacao to Rail.]
+
+[Illustration--Drawing: MAP OF CEYLON.]
+
+Further east are the plantations of Ceylon. In the hill districts, of
+which Matale is the centre, are many estates, some in joint
+cultivation of tea and cocoa. The output from this colony is at the
+present time nearly stationary. The Dutch East Indian produce is
+almost exclusively shipped to Amsterdam.
+
+[Illustration--Drawing: MAP OF SAMOA.]
+
+In the preceding pages extracts have frequently been culled from
+writers of the past: in the literature of the present day Charles
+Kingsley's graphic account of Trinidad and its cacao and sugar
+plantations in "At Last" should be read _in extenso_. Another very
+interesting episode of modern date is the introduction of the cacao
+into the Samoan Islands in the Pacific by Robert Louis Stevenson.
+Writing to Sidney Colvin, on December 7, 1891, in one of his "Vailima
+Letters," he says:
+
+     "When I was filling baskets all Saturday, in my dull, mulish
+     way, perhaps the slowest worker there, surely the most
+     particular, and the only one that never looked up or knocked
+     off, I could not but think I should have been sent on
+     exhibition as an example to young literary men. 'Here is how to
+     learn to write' might be the motto. You should have seen us;
+     the veranda was like an Irish bog, our hands and faces were
+     bedaubed with soil, and Faauma was supposed to have struck the
+     right note when she remarked (_à propos_ of nothing), 'Too much
+     _eleele_ (soil) for me.' The cacao, you must understand, has to
+     be planted at first in baskets of plaited cocoa-leaf.[22] From
+     four to ten natives were plaiting these in the wood-shed. Four
+     boys were digging up soil and bringing it by the boxful to the
+     veranda. Lloyd and I and Belle, and sometimes S. (who came to
+     bear a hand), were filling the baskets, removing stones and
+     lumps of clay; Austin and Faauma carried them when full to
+     Fanny, who planted a seed in each, and then set them, packed
+     close, in the corners of the veranda. From 12 on Friday till 5
+     p.m. on Saturday we planted the first 1,500, and more than 700
+     of a second lot. You cannot dream how filthy we were, and we
+     were all properly tired."[23]
+
+[Illustration--Black and White Plate: Samoa: A New Clearing for Cacao.]
+
+Three years later he records:
+
+     "I have been forbidden to work, and have been instead doing
+     my two or three hours in the plantation every morning. I only
+     wish somebody would pay me £10 a day for taking care of cacao,
+     and I could leave literature to others."
+
+Cacao cultivation in this island of Upolu has since that date
+developed wonderfully, and is attracting much attention, the first
+produce having been sold in Hamburg at a very high price. The consular
+report on Samoa published in February, 1903, states that "the mainstay
+of Samoa is cocoa," and it will be interesting to follow the progress
+of an industry of which the versatile Scotchman was an early pioneer.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[20] Florida even boasts a town of the name of Cocoa, but inquiries on
+the spot have failed to discover that any attempt was ever made to
+cultivate the plant there.
+
+[21] Two of the coloured plates in this volume are reproductions of
+pictures by members of one of the oldest French families in the
+island, painted on their cocoa estate in the beautiful valley of Santa
+Cruz.
+
+[22] Leaf of the coco-nut palm.
+
+[23] See plates facing pp. 27 and 29.
+
+
+
+
+APPENDIX I.
+
+ANCIENT MANUFACTURE OF COCOA.
+
+
+Most of the operations described are only the performance on a large
+scale by modern machinery of those employed by the Mexicans, and by
+those who learned from them, of whom we read:
+
+     "For this purpose they have a broad, smooth stone, well
+     polished or glazed very hard, and being made fit in all
+     respects for their use, they grind the cacaos thereon very
+     small, and when they have so done, they have another broad
+     stone ready, under which they keep a gentle fire.
+
+     "A more speedy way for the making up of the cacao into
+     chocolate is this: They have a mill made in the form of some
+     kind of malt-mills, whose stones are firm and hard, which work
+     by turning, and upon this mill are ground the cacaos grossly,
+     and then between other stones they work that which is ground
+     yet smaller, or else by beating it up in a mortar bring it into
+     the usual form."
+
+A later writer remarks of this process:
+
+     "The Indians, from whom we borrow it, are not very nice in
+     doing it; they roast the kernels in earthen pots, then free
+     them from their skins, and afterwards crush and grind them
+     between two stones, and so form cakes of it with their hands."
+
+[Illustration--Drawing: A MEXICAN METATE, OR GRINDING STONE.]
+
+And, further on, in speaking of the Spaniards' mode of preparation, he
+says:
+
+     "They put them (the kernels) into a large mortar to reduce them
+     to a gross powder, which they afterwards grind upon a stone.
+     They make choice of a stone which naturally resists the fire,
+     from sixteen to eighteen inches broad, and about twenty-seven
+     or thirty long and three in thickness, and hollowed in the
+     middle about one inch and a half deep. Under this they place a
+     pan of coals to heat the stone, so that the heat makes it easy
+     for the iron roller to make it so fine as to leave neither lump
+     nor the least hardness."
+
+At the present day, when the beans are plentiful on the cacao estates,
+but no machines for manufacture exist, the planters prepare a
+palatable drink by roasting the beans on a moving shovel or pan over
+the open fire, husking them by the time-honoured plan of tossing in
+the breeze, and grinding out on a flat stone in much the same manner
+as did the old Spaniards. The writer has even seen a little
+tobacco-press ingeniously adapted for the purpose of extracting the
+butter, the invention of Mr. J.H. Hart, of the Trinidad Botanical
+Gardens, a gentleman who has done much in the direction of
+investigating the best cacao for seed, and the most favourable methods
+of cultivation.
+
+
+
+
+APPENDIX II.
+
+BOURNVILLE WORKS SUGGESTION SCHEME.
+
+
+OBJECTS.
+
+_December, 1902._
+
+The objects in view are:
+
+1. To encourage our employés to make all the suggestions they can for
+the mutual welfare of the business and everyone connected with it.
+Even the smallest suggestion may be of value.
+
+2. To enable those in our employ to share in the benefit of the
+suggestions they make, and to receive personal recognition for them.
+
+3. To insure harmonious relations between all sections of the work.
+
+
+PRIZES.
+
+Prizes of the undermentioned values will be given half-yearly for
+suggestions meriting reward:
+
+MEN'S DEPARTMENTS.--One of £10; two of £5; two of £2 10s.; ten of £1;
+fifteen of 10s.; thirty of 5s. GIRLS' DEPARTMENTS.--One of £5; two of
+£2; eight of £1; fifteen of 10s.; thirty of 5s.
+
+The following list will indicate on what lines suggestions may be
+made:
+
+1. Comfort, safety, or health of employés.
+
+2. Means by which waste of material may be avoided.
+
+3. Saving of time or expense.
+
+4. Improvements in machinery or in methods of working.
+
+5. Introduction of new goods, or new ideas.
+
+6. Calling attention to any existing defects.
+
+7. Suggestions affecting athletic and other clubs and societies,
+libraries, magazine, etc.
+
+8. Any suggestion not included in the above list will be welcomed.
+
+
+REGULATIONS.
+
+Everyone, including foremen and forewomen, is encouraged to make
+suggestions which, if of value, will be eligible for the prizes
+mentioned above (excepting those sent in by foremen and forewomen).
+
+Suggestions should be written on or attached to the forms which will
+be found on each box, the boxes being fixed in the various
+departments, also in the entrance lodges, dining-rooms, and recreation
+grounds. Suggestions can be placed in any of these.
+
+It is imperative that all particulars at head of form, which will
+bear a distinctive number, should be carefully filled in. If this is
+not complied with no notice will be taken of suggestions. Forms may be
+taken from the book and filled up at home.
+
+All suggestions will be acknowledged by a notice posted on the boards
+once a week, giving a list of the printed numbers on the suggestion
+forms received for consideration.
+
+Should any number not appear in this list a communication should at
+once be sent to the Secretary.
+
+Those who have left the employ of the firm are entitled to prizes for
+any suggestions made whilst they were here, unless they should leave
+through misconduct.
+
+The suggestions are considered weekly by the committees with a member
+of the firm, and are dealt with in the order in which they are
+received. They are finally judged by the firm at the end of May and
+November, and prizes distributed before the summer holidays and at the
+Christmas gathering.
+
+Every effort is made by the committees to keep the names of the
+suggestors _strictly private_.
+
+
+
+
+APPENDIX III.
+
+THE EARLY COCOA HOUSES.
+
+
+At No. 64, St. James's Street is the "Cocoa Tree Club." In the reign
+of Queen Anne there was a famous chocolate-house known as the "Cocoa
+Tree," a favourite sign to mark that new and fashionable beverage. Its
+frequenters were Tories of the strictest school. De Foe tells us in
+his "Journey through England," that "a Whig will no more go to the
+'Cocoa Tree' ... than a Tory will be seen at the coffee-house of St.
+James's." In course of time the "Cocoa Tree" developed into a
+gaming-house and a club.
+
+As a club, the "Cocoa Tree" did not cease to keep up its reputation
+for high play. Although the present establishment bearing the name
+dates its existence only from the year 1853, the old chocolate-house
+was probably converted into a club as far back as the middle of the
+last century. Lord Byron was a member of this club, and so was Gibbon,
+the historian.
+
+--From "Old and New London," Cassell & Co.
+
+
+NOTE.
+
+Reference in detail to the numerous authorities who have been laid
+under contribution for this brochure would be out of place in so
+popular a compilation, but the writer desires to express his special
+indebtedness to "Cocoa: All about It" by "Historicas," not only for
+facts, but also for some of his illustrations. To Messrs. Cadbury,
+too, he is indebted for permission to use several of the
+illustrations, as well as for much valuable information.
+
+
+
+***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE FOOD OF THE GODS***
+
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+<h1>The Project Gutenberg eBook, The Food of the Gods, by Brandon Head</h1>
+<pre>
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at <a href = "https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a></pre>
+<p>Title: The Food of the Gods</p>
+<p>       A Popular Account of Cocoa</p>
+<p>Author: Brandon Head</p>
+<p>Release Date: June 10, 2005  [eBook #16035]</p>
+<p>Language: English</p>
+<p>Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1</p>
+<p>***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE FOOD OF THE GODS***</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<h3>E-text prepared by Clare Boothby, Karen Dalrymple,<br />
+    and the Project Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team<br />
+    (https://www.pgdp.net)</h3>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<hr class="full" />
+<h1><!-- Page -4 --><a name="Page_-4" id="Page_-4"></a>THE FOOD OF THE GODS</h1>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<div class="center">(<i>&#920;&#949;&#969;&nbsp;&#946;&#961;&#969;&#956;&#945;</i>)</div>
+
+<h3>A POPULAR ACCOUNT OF COCOA</h3>
+
+<h4>BY</h4>
+
+<h2>BRANDON HEAD</h2>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<h6>
+LONDON: R. BRIMLEY JOHNSON<br />
+4, ADAM STREET, ADELPHI, W.C.</h6>
+
+<h4>1903</h4>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><!-- Page -3 --><a name="Page_-3" id="Page_-3"></a>
+<a name="c001" id="c001"></a><a href="images/c001.jpg"><img src="images/c001_thumb.jpg" width="500" height="308" alt="EAST INDIAN COOLIES ON A TRINIDAD CACAO ESTATE" title="" /></a>
+<span class="caption">EAST INDIAN COOLIES ON A TRINIDAD CACAO ESTATE</span>
+</div>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CONTENTS" id="CONTENTS"></a>CONTENTS.</h2>
+
+<div class='center'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="TABLE OF CONTENTS">
+<tr><td align="left" colspan="2">CHAPTER</td><td>PAGE</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">I.</td><td align="left"><a href="#I_ITS_NATURE">ITS NATURE</a></td><td align="right">1</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">II.</td><td align="left"><a href="#II_ITS_GROWTH_AND_CULTIVATION">ITS GROWTH AND CULTIVATION</a></td><td align="right">25</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">III.</td><td align="left"><a href="#III_ITS_MANUFACTURE">ITS MANUFACTURE</a></td><td align="right">45</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">IV.</td><td align="left"><a href="#IV_ITS_HISTORY">ITS HISTORY</a></td><td align="right">71</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">V.</td><td align="left"><a href="#V_ITS_SOURCES_AND_VARIETIES">ITS SOURCES AND VARIETIES</a></td><td align="right">91</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><i>Appendices:</i></td></tr>
+<tr><td></td><td align="left"><a href="#APPENDIX_I">ANCIENT MANUFACTURE OF COCOA</a></td><td align="right">103</td></tr>
+<tr><td></td><td align="left"><a href="#APPENDIX_II">BOURNVILLE WORKS SUGGESTION SCHEME</a></td><td align="right">106</td></tr>
+<tr><td></td><td align="left"><a href="#APPENDIX_III">THE EARLY COCOA HOUSES</a></td><td align="right">109</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS_AND_MAPS" id="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS_AND_MAPS"></a><!-- Page -2 --><a name="Page_-2" id="Page_-2"></a>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS AND MAPS.</h2>
+
+
+
+<div class='center'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS AND MAPS">
+<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td colspan="2" align="right">PAGE</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#c001">EAST INDIAN COOLIES OF A TRINIDAD CACAO ESTATE (COLOURED)</a>&nbsp;&nbsp;</td><td align="right"><i>frontispiece</i></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g001">CEYLON, A HILL CACAO ESTATE</a></td><td align="right"><i>to face</i></td><td align="right">1</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g002">"MAKE A CUP OF COCOA IN PERFECTION"</a> (<i>see <a href="#Page_19">p. 19</a></i>)</td><td></td><td align="right">1</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g003">CACAO TREES, TRINIDAD</a></td><td align="right"><i>to face</i></td><td align="right">3</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g004">ANCIENT MEXICAN DRINKING CUPS</a></td><td colspan="2" align="right">4</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g005">"MOLINILLO," OR CHOCOLATE WHISK</a></td><td colspan="2" align="right">5</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g006">CACAO HARVEST, TRINIDAD</a></td><td align="right"><i>to face</i></td><td align="right">7</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g007">THE COCO-NUT PALM</a></td><td colspan="2" align="right">8</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g008">COCO-DE-MER</a></td><td colspan="2" align="right">9</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g009">LEAVES AND FLOWER OF THE CUCA SHRUB</a></td><td colspan="2" align="right">10</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g010">GATHERING CACAO: SANTA CRUZ, TRINIDAD</a></td><td align="right"><i>to face</i></td><td align="right">11</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g011">PURE DECORTICATED COCOA, MAGNIFIED</a></td><td colspan="2" align="right">12</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g012">ADULTERATED COCOA, MAGNIFIED</a></td><td colspan="2" align="right">13</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g060">HOW THE CACAO GROWS</a></td><td align="right"><i>to face</i></td><td align="right">17</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g014">CACAO CROP, TRINIDAD</a></td><td colspan="2" align="right">21</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g013">ANALYTICAL APPARATUS</a></td><td colspan="2" align="right">20</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#c002">CACAO PODS (COLOURED)</a></td><td align="right"><i>to face</i></td><td align="right">25</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><!-- Page -1 --><a name="Page_-1" id="Page_-1"></a><a href="#g015">CACAO HARVESTING</a></td><td colspan="2" align="right">25</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g016">CEYLON, NURSERY OF CACAO SEEDLINGS</a></td><td align="right"><i>to face</i></td><td align="right">27</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g017">SAMOA: CACAO IN ITS FOURTH YEAR</a></td><td align="center">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"</td><td align="right">29</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g018">YOUNG CACAO CULTIVATION WITH CATCH CROP</a></td><td align="center">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"</td><td align="right">30</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g019">PODS OF CACAO THEOBROMA</a></td><td colspan = "2" align="right">31</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g020">VARIETIES OF THE CACAO</a></td><td align="right"><i>to face</i></td><td align="right">32</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g021">THE HOME OF THE CACAO</a></td><td align="center">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"</td><td align="right">35</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g022">ORTINOLA, MARACAS, TRINIDAD</a></td><td align="center">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"</td><td align="right">36</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g023">GOULET AND WOODEN SPOON</a></td><td colspan="2" align="right">37</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g024">CUTLASSES</a></td><td colspan="2" align="right">37</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g025">CACAO DRYING IN THE SUN</a></td><td align="right"><i>to face</i></td><td align="right">39</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g026">LABOURERS' COTTAGE, CACAO ESTATE</a></td><td align="center">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"</td><td align="right">40</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g027">BASKETS OF CACAO ON PLANTAIN LEAVES</a></td><td colspan="2" align="right">41</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#c003">CACAO TREE AND SEEDLING (COLOURED)</a></td><td align="right"><i>to face</i></td><td align="right">43</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">BOURNVILLE:</td><td align="left"><a href="#g028">"THE FACTORY IN A GARDEN"</a></td><td align="center">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"</td><td align="right">45</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center" width="17%">"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td><td align="left"><a href="#g029">"ON ARRIVAL AT THE FACTORY"</a></td><td colspan="2" align="right">45</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center">"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td><td align="left"><a href="#g030">OFFICE BUILDINGS</a></td><td align="right"><i>to face</i></td><td align="right">47</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center">"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td><td align="left"><a href="#g031">CRICKET PAVILION</a></td><td align="center">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"</td><td align="right">49</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center">"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td><td align="left"><a href="#g032">GIRLS' DINING-HALL</a></td><td align="center">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"</td><td align="right">51</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center">"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td><td align="left"><a href="#g033">BOOT-SHELF ON STOOL</a></td><td align="right" colspan="2">53</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center">"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td><td align="left"><a href="#g034">THE DINNER HOUR</a></td><td align="right"><i>to face</i></td><td align="right">54</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center">"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td><td align="left"><a href="#g035">LABURNAM ROAD</a></td><td align="center">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"</td><td align="right">58</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center">"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td><td align="left"><a href="#g036">PACKING-ROOM</a></td><td align="center">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"</td><td align="right">60</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center">"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td><td align="left"><a href="#g037">SUGGESTION BOX</a></td><td align="right" colspan="2">62</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center">"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td><td align="left"><a href="#g038">LINDEN ROAD</a></td><td align="right"><i>to face</i></td><td align="right">63</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center">"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td><td align="left"><a href="#g039">FISHING POOL</a></td><td align="center">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"</td><td align="right">64</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center"><!-- Page 0 --><a name="Page_0" id="Page_0"></a>"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td><td align="left"><a href="#g040">ALMSHOUSES</a></td><td align="center">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"</td><td align="right">67</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#c004">SECTION OF A COCOA FACTORY (COLOURED)</a></td><td align="center">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"</td><td align="right">69</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g041">AMERICAN INDIAN WITH CHOCOLATE POT</a></td><td align="right" colspan="2">71</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g042">NATIVE AMERICANS PREPARING COCOA</a></td><td align="right"><i>to face</i></td><td align="right">72</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g043">A CACAO PLANTATION</a></td><td align="right" colspan="2">75</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g044">GRENADA: CACAO DRYING ON TRAYS</a></td><td align="right"><i>to face</i></td><td align="right">77</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g045">MEXICAN DRINKING-VESSELS AND WHISK</a></td><td colspan="2" align="right">78</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g046">CACAO TREE, TRINIDAD</a></td><td align="right"><i>to face</i></td><td align="right">80</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g047">MEXICAN COCOA WHISK</a></td><td align="right" colspan="2">83</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g048">WHITE'S COCOA HOUSE</a></td><td align="right"><i>to face</i>&nbsp;</td><td align="right">87</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#c005">CHART OF COCOA-PRODUCING COUNTRIES (COLOURED)</a></td><td align="right"><i>to face</i>&nbsp;</td><td align="right">91</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g049">SACKS OF CACAO BEANS</a></td><td align="center">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"</td><td align="right">91</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g050">MARACAS VALLEY, TRINIDAD</a></td><td align="center">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"</td><td align="right">92</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#c006">MAP OF TRINIDAD (COLOURED)</a></td><td align="center">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"</td><td align="right">95</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left" colspan="2">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; " &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <a href="#g051">GRENADA, BRITISH WEST INDIES</a></td><td align="center">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"</td><td align="right">96</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g052">CACAO ESTATE, GRENADA</a></td><td align="right"><i>to face</i></td><td align="right">96</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g053">MAP OF PRINCIPE</a></td><td align="right" colspan="2">97</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left" colspan="2">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; " &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<a href="#g054">S. THOM&Eacute;</a></td><td align="right" colspan="2">98</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g055">CEYLON: CARTING CACAO TO RAIL</a></td><td> &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;<i>to face</i>&nbsp;</td><td align="right">99</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g056">MAP OF CEYLON</a></td><td> &nbsp; &nbsp;</td><td align="right">99</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left" colspan="2">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; " &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<a href="#g057">SAMOA</a></td><td align="right" colspan="2">100</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g058">SAMOA, CLEARING FOR CACAO</a></td><td align="right"><i>to face</i></td><td align="right">100</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left" colspan="2"><a href="#g059">MEXICAN GRINDING-STONE</a></td><td align="right" colspan="2">104</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 408px;">
+<a name="g001" id="g001"></a><img src="images/g001.jpg" width="408" height="600" alt="Ceylon: A Hill Cacao Estate." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Ceylon: A Hill Cacao Estate.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="THE_FOOD_OF_THE_GODS" id="THE_FOOD_OF_THE_GODS"></a><!-- Page 1 --><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1"></a>"THE FOOD OF THE GODS."</h2>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="I_ITS_NATURE" id="I_ITS_NATURE"></a>I. ITS NATURE.</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 219px;">
+<a name="g002" id="g002"></a><img src="images/g002.jpg" width="219" height="200" alt="Pitcher, cup, and whisk" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p>When one thinks of the marvellously nourishing and stimulating virtue
+of cocoa, and of the exquisite and irresistible dainties prepared from
+it, one cannot wonder that the great Linn&aelig;us should have named it
+<i>theo broma</i>, "the food of the gods." No other natural product, with
+the exception of milk, can be said to serve equally well as food or
+drink, or to possess nourishing and <!-- Page 2 --><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2"></a>stimulating properties in such
+well-adjusted proportions. Few, however, realize that in its
+stimulating properties cocoa ranks ahead of coffee, though below tea.
+As a matter of fact, the active principles of all three are alkaloids,
+practically identical and equally effective.<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> Each derives its value
+from its influence on the nervous system, which it stimulates, while
+checking the waste of tissue, but the cocoa-bean provides in addition
+solid food to replace wasted tissue. It is, indeed, so closely allied
+in composition to pure dried milk, that in this respect there is
+little to choose between an absolutely pure cocoa essence and the
+natural fluid.<a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> It <!-- Page 3 --><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3"></a>is this which makes it invaluable as an
+alternative food for invalids or infants.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 413px;">
+<a name="g003" id="g003"></a><img src="images/g003.jpg" width="413" height="600" alt="Cacao Trees, Trinidad." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Cacao Trees, Trinidad.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>An early English writer on this valuable product spoke truly when he
+remarked: "All the American travellers have written such panegyricks,
+that I should degrade this royal liquor if I should offer any; yet
+several of these curious travellers and physicians do agree in this,
+that the cocoa has a wonderful faculty of quenching thirst, allaying
+hectick heats, of nourishing and fattening the body."</p>
+
+<p>A modern writer<a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> affords the same testimony in a more practical form
+when he records that: "Cocoa is of domestic drinks the most
+alimentary; it is without any exception the cheapest food that we can
+conceive, as it may be literally termed meat and drink, and were our
+half-starved artisans and over-worked factory children induced to
+drink it, instead of the in-nutritious beverage called tea, its
+nutritive qualities would soon develop themselves in their improved
+looks and more robust condition."</p>
+
+<p><!-- Page 4 --><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4"></a>Such a drink well deserved the treatment it received at the hands of
+the Mexicans to whom we are indebted for it. At the royal banquets
+frothing chocolate was served in golden goblets with finely wrought
+golden or tortoise-shell spoons. The froth in this case was of the
+consistency of honey, so that when eaten cold it would gradually
+dissolve in the mouth. Here is a luscious suggestion for twentieth
+century housewives, handed to them from five hundred years ago!</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 327px;">
+<a name="g004" id="g004"></a><img src="images/g004.jpg" width="327" height="300" alt="ANCIENT MEXICAN DRINKING CUPS. (British Museum.)" title="" />
+<span class="caption">ANCIENT MEXICAN DRINKING CUPS.<br />(<i>British Museum.</i>)</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>In health or sickness, infancy or age, at home <!-- Page 5 --><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5"></a>or on our travels,
+nothing is so generally useful, so sustaining and invigorating. Far
+better than the majority of vaunted substitutes for human milk as an
+infant's food, to supplement what other milk may be available;
+incomparable as a family drink for breakfast or supper, when both tea
+and coffee are really out of place unless the latter is nearly all
+milk; prepared as chocolate to eat on journeys, and in many other
+ways, cocoa is a constant stand-by. Travelling in Eastern deserts on
+mule-back, the present writer has never been without a tin of cocoa
+essence if he could help it, as, whatever straits he might be put to
+for provisions, so long as he had this and water, refreshment was
+possible, and whenever milk was available he had command in his lonely
+tent of a luxury unsurpassed in Paris or London. For the sustenance of
+invalids he has found nothing better in the home-land than a nightly
+cup of cocoa essence boiled with milk.</p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 311px;">
+<a name="g005" id="g005"></a><img src="images/g005.jpg" width="311" height="75" alt="MOLINILLO (LITTLE MILL) OR CHOCOLATE WHISK." title="" />
+<span class="caption">MOLINILLO (LITTLE MILL) OR CHOCOLATE WHISK.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><!-- Page 6 --><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6"></a>Add to these experiences a love for the flavour which dates from
+childhood, and his admiration for this "food of the gods" will be
+appreciated, even if not sympathized in, by the few who have escaped
+its spell. Its value in the eyes of practical as well as scientific
+men is sufficiently demonstrated by its increasing use in naval and
+military commissariats, in hospitals, and in public institutions of
+all classes. In the British Navy, which down to 1830 consumed more
+cocoa than the rest of the nation together, it is served out daily,
+and in the army twice or thrice a week. Brillat Savarin, the author of
+the "Physiologie du Go&ucirc;t," remarks: "The persons who habitually take
+chocolate are those who enjoy the most equable and constant health,
+and are least liable to a multitude of illnesses which spoil the
+enjoyment of life."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="g006" id="g006"></a><img src="images/g006.jpg" width="600" height="408" alt="A Cacao Harvest, Trinidad." title="" />
+<span class="caption">A Cacao Harvest, Trinidad.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>It certainly behoves us, therefore, to learn something more of such a
+valuable article than may be gleaned from the perusal of an
+advertisement, or the instructions on a packet containing it. There is
+something more than<!-- Page 7 --><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7"></a> usually fascinating even in its history, in all
+the tales regarding this treasure-trove of the New World, and in the
+curious methods by which it has been treated. The story of its
+discovery takes us into the atmosphere of the Elizabethan period, and
+into the company of Cortes and Columbus; to learn of its cultivation
+and preparation we are transported to the glorious realms of the
+tropics, and to some of the most healthful centres of labour in the
+old country&mdash;in one case to the model village of the English Midlands.
+It is therefore an exceedingly pleasant round that lies before us in
+investigating this subject, as well as one which will afford much
+useful knowledge for every-day life.</p>
+
+<p>Before proceeding to a closer acquaintance with the origin of cocoa,
+it may be well to clear the ground of possible misconceptions which
+occasionally cause confusion.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 313px;">
+<a name="g007" id="g007"></a><img src="images/g007.jpg" width="313" height="500" alt="THE COCO-NUT PALM." title="" /></div>
+<div class="center">
+<span class="caption">THE COCO-NUT PALM.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>First, there is the word "cocoa" itself, an unfortunate inversion of
+the name of the tree from which it is derived, the cacao.<a name="FNanchor_4_4" id="FNanchor_4_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> A still
+more <!-- Page 8 --><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8"></a>unfortunate corruption is that of "coco-nut" to "cocoa-nut,"
+which is altogether inexcusable. In this case it is therefore quite
+correct to drop the concluding "a," as the coco-nut has nothing
+<!-- Page 9 --><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9"></a>whatever to do with cocoa or the cacao, being the fruit of a palm<a name="FNanchor_5_5" id="FNanchor_5_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a>
+in every way distinct from it, as will be seen from the accompanying
+illustration.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 216px;">
+<a name="g008" id="g008"></a><img src="images/g008.jpg" width="216" height="250" alt="COCO-DE-MER." title="" />
+<span class="caption">COCO-DE-MER.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The name "coco" is also applied to another quite distinct fruit, the
+<i>coco-de-mer</i>, or "sea-coco," somewhat resembling a coco-nut in its
+pod, but weighing about 28 lbs., and likewise growing on a lofty tree;
+its habitat is the Seychelles Islands. Sometimes also, confusion
+arises between the cacao and the coca or cuca,<a name="FNanchor_6_6" id="FNanchor_6_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a> <!-- Page 10 --><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10"></a>a small shrub like
+a blackthorn, also widely cultivated in Central America, from the
+leaves of which the powerful narcotic cocaine is extracted.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 377px;">
+<a name="g009" id="g009"></a><img src="images/g009.jpg" width="377" height="400" alt="LEAVES AND FLOWER OF THE CUCA SHRUB." title="" />
+<span class="caption">LEAVES AND FLOWER OF THE CUCA SHRUB.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>In the second place, the name "cocoa," which is strictly applicable
+only to the pure ground nib or its concentrated essence, is sometimes
+unjustifiably applied to preparations of cocoa with starch, alkali,
+sugar, etc., which it would be more correct to describe as "chocolate
+powder," chocolate being admittedly a confection of cocoa with other
+substances and flavourings.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="g010" id="g010"></a><img src="images/g010.jpg" width="600" height="405" alt="Gathering Cacao: Santa Cruz, Trinidad." title="" />
+</div><div class="center">
+<span class="caption">Gathering Cacao: Santa Cruz, Trinidad.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>"Chocolate" is, therefore, a much wider term<!-- Page 11 --><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11"></a> than "cocoa,"
+embracing both the food and the drink prepared from the cacao, and is
+the Mexican name, <i>chocolatl</i>, slightly modified, having nothing to do
+with the word cacao, in Mexican <i>cacauatl</i>.<a name="FNanchor_7_7" id="FNanchor_7_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_7_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a> In the New World it was
+compounded of cacao, maize, and flavourings to which the Spaniards, on
+discovering it, added sugar, cinnamon, vanilla, and other ingredients,
+such as musk and ambergris, cloves and nutmegs, almonds and
+pistachios, anise, and even red peppers or chillies. "Sometimes," says
+a treatise on "The Natural History of Chocolate," "China [quinine] and
+assa [f&oelig;tida?]; and sometimes steel and rhubarb, may be added for
+young and green ladies."</p>
+
+<p>In our own times it is unfortunately common to add potato-starch,
+arrowroot, etc., to the cocoa, and yet to sell it by the name of the
+pure article. Such preparations thicken in the cup, and are preferred
+by some under the mistaken impression that this is a sign of its
+containing more nutriment instead of less. Although not so wholesome,
+there could be no objection to <!-- Page 12 --><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12"></a>these additions so long as the
+preparations were not labelled "cocoa," and were sold at a lower
+price.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 314px;">
+<a name="g011" id="g011"></a><img src="images/g011.jpg" width="314" height="300" alt="PURE DECORTICATED COCOA, HIGHLY MAGNIFIED." title="" />
+<span class="caption">PURE DECORTICATED COCOA, HIGHLY MAGNIFIED.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Such adulteration is rendered possible by the presence in the bean of
+a large proportion of fatty matter or cocoa-butter, which renders it
+too rich for most digestions. To overcome this difficulty one or other
+of two methods is available: (1) Lowering the percentage of fat by the
+addition of starch, sugar, etc.; or (2) removing a large proportion of
+the fat by some <!-- Page 13 --><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13"></a>extractive process; this latter method being in every
+respect preferable to that first mentioned.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 322px;">
+<a name="g012" id="g012"></a><img src="images/g012.jpg" width="322" height="300" alt="COCOA ADULTERATED WITH ARROWROOT OR POTATO STARCH." title="" />
+<span class="caption">COCOA ADULTERATED WITH ARROWROOT OR POTATO STARCH.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>In order to avoid the expense and trouble consequent on the latter
+process, some manufacturers add alkali, by which means the free fatty
+acids are saponified, and the fat is held in a state of emulsion, thus
+giving the cocoa a false appearance of solubility.</p>
+
+<p>Another effect of the alkali is to impart to the beverage a much
+darker colour, from its action on the natural red colouring matter of
+<!-- Page 14 --><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14"></a>the cocoa, this darkening being often taken, unfortunately, as
+indicative of increased strength. On this account the presence of
+added alkali should be regarded as an adulteration, unless notified on
+the package in which the cocoa is contained.</p>
+
+<p>A more subtle treatment with alkali for the same purpose is the
+addition to the pulverized bean of carbonate of ammonia, or caustic
+ammonia. This is afterwards volatilized by the application of heat.
+Scents and flavourings are then added to disguise their smell and
+taste.</p>
+
+<p>Besides these combinations of cocoa with starch, sugar, etc., and
+cocoa treated with alkali, there are now found on the market mixtures
+of cocoa with such substances as kola, malt, hops, etc., sold under
+strange-sounding names, reminding one of the many mixtures that are
+made up as medicines rather than food. While the substances thus
+incorporated are of value in their place, they possess no virtues
+which are absent from the pure cocoa, and cannot be in any way
+considered an improvement of cocoa <!-- Page 15 --><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15"></a>as food. The sooner this practice
+of drug taking under cover of diet comes to an end the better it will
+be for the national health.</p>
+
+<p>Formerly Venetian red, umber, peroxide of iron, and even brick-dust,
+were employed to produce a cheaper article, but modern science and
+legislation combined have rendered such practices almost impossible.
+As early as the reign of George III. an Act<a name="FNanchor_8_8" id="FNanchor_8_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_8_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a> was passed, providing
+that, "if any article made to resemble cocoa shall be found in the
+possession of any dealer, under the name of 'American cocoa' or
+'English cocoa,' or any other name of cocoa, it shall be forfeited,
+and the dealer shall forfeit &pound;100." Yet this Act was allowed to become
+so much a dead letter that in 1851 the <i>Lancet</i> published the analysis
+of fifty-six preparations sold as "cocoa," of which only eight were
+free from adulteration. In some of the "soluble cocoas," the
+adulteration was as high as 65 per cent., potato starch in one case
+forming 50 per cent. of the sample. The majority of the samples were
+found to be coloured with mineral or <!-- Page 16 --><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16"></a>earthy pigments, and specimens
+treated with red lead are on exhibition at South Kensington.</p>
+
+<p>The inclusion of the husk or shell in some of the cheaper forms of
+chocolate is another reprehensible practice (strongly condemned), as
+they do not possess the qualities for which the kernel or nib is so
+highly prized. To prevent this practice it was enacted in 1770 that
+the shells or husks should be seized or destroyed, and the officer
+seizing them rewarded up to 20s. per hundredweight. From these a
+light, but not unpalatable, table decoction is still prepared in
+Ireland and elsewhere, under the designation of "miserables."</p>
+
+<p>Among other beverages which have from time to time been produced from
+the cacao was a fermented drink much in vogue at the Mexican Court, to
+which it appears from the accounts of the conquest that Montezuma was
+addicted, as "after the hot dishes (300 in number) had been removed,
+every now and then was handed to him a golden pitcher filled with a
+kind of liquor made from cacao, which is very exciting." One variety,
+called <i>zaca</i>, drunk by the Itzas, <!-- Page 17 --><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17"></a>consisted of cocoa mixed with a
+fermented liquor prepared from maize; but a more harmless invention
+was a drink composed of cocoa-butter and maize.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 421px;">
+<a name="g060" id="g060"></a><img src="images/g060.jpg" width="421" height="600" alt="How the Cacao Grows. (Showing Leaf, Flower, and
+Fruit.)" title="" />
+<span class="caption">How the Cacao Grows.<br />
+(Showing Leaf, Flower, and Fruit.)</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>There remain three forms in which pure cocoa may be prepared as a
+beverage:</p>
+
+<p>1. <i>Cocoa-nibs.</i>&mdash;The natural broken segments of the roasted
+cocoa-bean, after the shell has been removed, prepared for table as an
+infusion by prolonged simmering.</p>
+
+<p>It is strange that this ridiculous and wasteful means is still in use
+at all, as next to none of the valuable portions of the nib are
+extracted. The quantity of matter removed by the hot water is so
+small, that close upon 90 per cent, of the nourishing and feeding
+constituents are left behind in the undissolved sediment, the
+substances extracted being principally salts and colouring matters.
+One can but suppose that the long habit of drinking an infusion from
+coffee-beans and tea-leaves has fixed in the mind the erroneous idea
+that the substance of the cocoa-bean is also valueless. The fact
+remains, however, that it is still customary at <!-- Page 18 --><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18"></a>some hydropathic
+establishments, and perhaps in a few other instances, for doctors to
+order "nibs" for their patient, which may sometimes be accounted for
+by injury having resulted from drinking one of the many "faked" cocoas
+offered for sale; the order for "nibs" being a despairing effort to
+obtain the genuine article.</p>
+
+<p>2. <i>Consolidated Nibs</i>&mdash;<i>i.e.</i>, cocoa-nibs ground between heated
+stones, whence it flows in a paste of the consistency of cream, which,
+when cool, hardens into a cake containing all the cocoa-butter. Cocoa
+in this form (mixed with sugar before cooling) is served in the
+British Navy&mdash;a somewhat wasteful and inconvenient practice, as when
+stirred, the excess of fat at once floats to the top of the cup, and
+is generally removed with a spoon, to make the drink more appetising.</p>
+
+<p>3. <i>Cocoa Essence.</i>&mdash;This is the same article as No. 2, with about 60
+per cent, of the natural butter removed; consequently the proportion
+of albuminous and stimulating elements is greatly increased. It is
+prepared instantly by pouring <!-- Page 19 --><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19"></a>boiling water upon it, thus forming a
+light beverage with all the strength and flesh-forming constituents of
+the decorticated bean.<a name="FNanchor_9_9" id="FNanchor_9_9"></a><a href="#Footnote_9_9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a></p>
+
+<p>Chemical analysis of cacao-nibs and cocoa essence shows them to
+contain on an average:</p>
+
+
+<div class='center'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="Chemical analysis of cacao-nibs and cocoa essence">
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td colspan="2" align="center">Cacao-nibs.</td><td colspan="2" align="center">Cocoa Essence.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Cocoa-butter</td><td align="right">50&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td><td align="left">parts.</td><td align="right">30</td><td align="left">parts.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Albuminoid substances</td><td align="right">16&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td><td align="left">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"</td><td align="right">22</td><td align="left">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Carbohydrates (sugar, starch, and digestible cellulose)</td><td align="right">21&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td><td align="left">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"</td><td align="right">30</td><td align="left">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Theobromine</td><td align="right">1.5</td><td align="left">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"</td><td align="right">2</td><td align="left">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Salts</td><td align="right">3.5</td><td align="left">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"</td><td align="right">5</td><td align="left">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Other constituents</td><td align="right">8&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td><td align="left">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"</td><td align="right">11</td><td align="left">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"</td></tr>
+<tr><td></td><td align="left" colspan="2">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td><td align="left" colspan="2">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td></td><td align="right">100&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td><td></td><td align="right">100</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<p>The <i>cocoa-butter</i> when clarified is of a pale yellow colour, and as
+it melts at about 90&deg; F. it is of great value for <!-- Page 20 --><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20"></a>pharmaceutical
+purposes, especially as it only becomes rancid when subjected to
+excessive heat and light, as to the direct rays of the sun.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 343px;">
+<a name="g013" id="g013"></a><img src="images/g013.jpg" width="343" height="300" alt="ANALYTICAL APPARATUS." title="" />
+<span class="caption">ANALYTICAL APPARATUS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The <i>albuminoid</i> or <i>nitrogenous constituents</i> will be seen to form
+about a sixth of the whole nib, or more than a fifth of the cocoa
+essence, and to their presence is due the fact that absolutely pure
+cocoa is such a remarkable flesh-former.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="g014" id="g014"></a><img src="images/g014.jpg" width="600" height="404" alt="Cacao Crop, Trinidad." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Cacao Crop, Trinidad.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><!-- Page 21 --><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21"></a>The <i>carbohydrates</i>, producing warmth and fat, are also important food
+substances, the proportion of which, while forming about a fifth of
+the whole bean, rises to close upon a third of the essence.</p>
+
+<p>Cocoa also contains a <i>volatile oil</i>, from which it derives its
+peculiar and delicious aroma.</p>
+
+<p>Thus <i>nearly nine-tenths of the cacao-bean may be assimilated by the
+digestive organs</i>, while three-fourths of tea and coffee are thrown
+away as waste. For the same bulk, therefore, cocoa is said to yield
+thirteen times the nutriment of tea, and four and a half times that of
+coffee. Its value as a substitute for mother's milk has already been
+alluded to, but may well be emphasized by a quotation from a paper
+read before the Surgical Society of Ireland in 1877 by one of its
+Fellows, Mr. Faussett:</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>"Without presuming to pass any judgment on the many artificial
+     substitutes which, on alleged chemical <!-- Page 22 --><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22"></a>and scientific
+     principles, have from time to time been pressed forward under
+     the notice of the profession and the public to take the place
+     of mother's milk, I beg to call attention to a very cheap and
+     simple article which is easily procurable&mdash;viz., cocoa, and
+     which, <i>when pure and deprived of an excess of fatty matter</i>,
+     may safely be relied on, as cocoa in the natural state abounds
+     in a number of valuable nutritious principles, in fact, in
+     every material necessary for the growth, development, and
+     sustenance of the body."</p></div>
+
+<p>After giving some remarkable cases of children being restored from
+"the last stage of exhaustion" by its use, and "continued through the
+whole period of infancy," with the effect of their becoming fine,
+healthy children, he concluded by saying:</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>"I beg therefore respectfully to commend cocoa, as an article
+     of infant's food, to the notice of my professional brethren,
+     especially those who, holding office under the Poor Laws, have
+     such large and extensive opportunities of testing its value."</p></div>
+
+<p>As a beverage for mothers or nurses cocoa is recommended by Dr. Milner
+Fothergill, in his work on "The Food we Eat," in preference to
+<!-- Page 23 --><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23"></a>porter, stout or ale, an opinion now becoming generally adopted. It
+may, therefore, be regarded as the indispensable, all-round nursery
+food, if not the constant stand-by of the family.</p>
+
+<p>That it is as nutritious for old as well as young we have an
+interesting proof in the fact that the first Englishman born in
+Jamaica, Colonel Montague James, who lived to the age of 104, took
+scarcely any food but cocoa and chocolate for the last thirty years of
+his life. For athletes and all who desire the development of the
+muscular tissues, its use is most beneficial. Professor Cavill, in his
+celebrated swim from Southampton to Portsmouth, and his nearly
+successful attempt to swim across the English Channel, considered it
+to be the most concentrated and sustaining food he could use for that
+trying test of endurance.</p>
+
+<p>In his "Treatise on Food and Dietetics," Dr. Pavy remarks that:</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>"Containing, as pure cocoa does, twice as much nitrogenous
+     matter, and twenty-five times as much fatty matter as wheaten
+     flour, with a notable <!-- Page 24 --><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24"></a>quantity of starch, and an agreeable
+     aroma to tempt the palate, it cannot be otherwise than a
+     valuable alimentary material. It has been compared in this
+     respect to milk. It conveniently furnishes a large amount of
+     agreeable nourishment in a small bulk, and, taken with bread,
+     will suffice, in the absence of any other food, to furnish a
+     good repast."</p></div>
+
+<p>Indeed, the value of cocoa as food for ordinary mortals as well as for
+mythical beings cannot be better summed up than in the words of
+Professor Lankester, Superintendent of the Food Collections at South
+Kensington, who declares:</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>"It can hardly be regarded as a substitute for tea and coffee;
+     it is, in fact, a substitute for all other kinds of food, and
+     when taken with some form of bread, little or nothing else need
+     be added at a meal. The same may be said of chocolate."</p></div>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 282px;">
+<a name="c002" id="c002"></a><a href="images/c002.jpg"><img src="images/c002_thumb.jpg" width="282" height="450" alt="CACAO PODS" title="" /></a>
+<span class="caption">CACAO PODS</span><br />
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> According to Drs. Playfair and Lankester:
+</p>
+<div class='center'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align='left'>Tea</td><td>contains</td><td align="left">3</td><td align='left'>per cent.</td><td align="left">theine.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Coffee</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>1¾</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>caffeine.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Cocoa</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>2</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>theobromine.</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<p>Probably the proportion of caffeine in coffee would be more correctly
+stated as 1¼ per cent. Theine and caffeine are identical, but
+theobromine (C<span class="chemsub">7</span>H<span class="chemsub">8</span>N<span class="chemsub">4</span>O<span class="chemsub">2</span>) differs from both in the greater
+proportion of nitrogen which it contains.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> Dr. Johnson's analysis:
+</p>
+<div class='center'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td align='center'>Flesh formers in<br />each hundred parts.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Dried milk</td><td align='center'>35</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Cocoa essence</td><td align='center'>34¾</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Cocoa-nibs</td><td align='center'>23</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Best French chocolates</td><td align='center'>11</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> Mr. O.L. Symonds, "Commercial Products of the Vegetable
+Kingdom."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_4_4" id="Footnote_4_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> The <i>Cacao theobroma</i>. There are several other varieties
+of cacao, but none of them produce the famous food.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_5_5" id="Footnote_5_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> The <i>Cocos nucifera</i>, or "nut-bearing coco."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_6_6" id="Footnote_6_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_6_6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a> <i>Erythroxylon coca.</i></p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_7_7" id="Footnote_7_7"></a><a href="#FNanchor_7_7"><span class="label">[7]</span></a> Or, as otherwise written, <i>cacava quahuitl</i>.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_8_8" id="Footnote_8_8"></a><a href="#FNanchor_8_8"><span class="label">[8]</span></a> 10 George III., c. 10.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_9_9" id="Footnote_9_9"></a><a href="#FNanchor_9_9"><span class="label">[9]</span></a> To make cocoa in perfection, for three breakfast-cups: in
+a quart jug (with rounded bottom and narrower neck by preference) mix
+1½ dessert spoonfuls (¾ oz.) of Cocoa Essence with equal bulk of
+powdered white sugar, and stir to a thin paste with a little boiling
+water. Mix in an enamelled saucepan one breakfast-cup of milk with two
+cups of water (cups to be about ¾ full), and boil with care. When on
+the boil, pour this over the contents of the jug, and whisk vigorously
+for a few seconds (see illustration, <a href="#Page_1">p. 1</a>). Serve to table without
+delay. To make a richer drink, use equal parts of milk and water. To
+ensure the beverage being served as hot as possible, it is desirable
+to warm the jug before the cocoa is put into it. The effect of this
+method of preparation is to impart to the cocoa a more mellow taste,
+and to produce a deep froth on the surface, giving it a most
+appetizing appearance. The thorough mixing to which the cocoa is
+subjected also materially lessens the amount of sediment in the bottom
+of the cup.</p></div>
+</div>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="II_ITS_GROWTH_AND_CULTIVATION" id="II_ITS_GROWTH_AND_CULTIVATION"></a><!-- Page 25 --><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25"></a>II. ITS GROWTH AND CULTIVATION.</h2>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 273px;">
+<a name="g015" id="g015"></a><img src="images/g015.jpg" width="273" height="250" alt="Tools for cacao harvesting" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p>Cocoa is now grown in many parts of the tropics, reference to which is
+made in another chapter. The conditions, however, do not greatly vary,
+and there are probably many lands in the tropical belt where it is yet
+unknown that possess soil well suited to its extended cultivation.</p>
+
+<p>The cacao-tree grows wild in the forests of Central America, and
+varieties have been found also in Jamaica and other West Indian
+islands, <!-- Page 26 --><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26"></a>and in South America. It does not thrive more than fifteen
+degrees north or south of the equator, and even within these limits it
+is not very successfully grown more than 600 feet above the sea-level;
+in many districts where sugar formerly monopolized the plains, it was
+supposed that cocoa needed an altitude of at least 200 feet, but
+experiments of planting on the old sugar estates and other low-lying
+places are generally successful where the soil is good, as in
+Trinidad, Cuba, and British Guiana. It has been found that the expense
+saved in roads, labour, and transit on the level has been very
+considerable in comparison with that incurred on some of the hill
+estates.</p>
+
+<p>In appearance the cacao-tree is not greatly unlike one of our own
+orchard trees, and trained by the pruning knife it grows similar in
+shape to a well-kept apple tree, no very low boughs being left, so
+that a man on horseback can generally pass freely down the long
+glades. Left to nature, it will in good soil reach a height of over
+twenty feet, and its branches will extend for ten feet from the
+centre.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="g016" id="g016"></a><img src="images/g016.jpg" width="600" height="405" alt="Ceylon: Nursery of Cacao Seedlings in Baskets of
+plaited Palm Leaf." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Ceylon: Nursery of Cacao Seedlings in Baskets of
+plaited Palm Leaf.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><!-- Page 27 --><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27"></a>The best soil is that made by the decomposition of volcanic rock, so
+that it is a common sight to find areas strewn with large boulders
+turned into a cocoa plantation of great fertility; but the best trees
+of all lie along the <i>vegas</i> which intersect the hills, where the soil
+is deep, and the stream winding among the trees supplies natural
+irrigation. The tree also grows well in loams and the richer marls,
+but will not thrive on clay and other heavy soils.</p>
+
+<p>The cacao is one of the tenderest of tropical growths, and will not
+flourish in any exposed position, for which reason large shade belts
+are left along exposed ridges and other parts of a hill estate, thus
+greatly reducing the total area under cultivation, in comparison with
+an estate of equal extent on the level plains, where no shade belts
+are necessary.</p>
+
+<p>The beans are planted either "at stake,"&mdash;when three beans are put in
+round each stake, the one thriving best after the first year being
+left to mature,&mdash;or "from nursery," whence, after a few months' growth
+in bamboo or palm-leaf baskets, they are transplanted into the
+clearing.</p>
+
+<p><!-- Page 28 --><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28"></a>The preparation of the land is the first and greatest expense; trees
+have to be felled, and bush cut down and spread over the land, so that
+the sun can quickly render it combustible. When all is clear, the
+cacao is put in among a "catch crop" of vegetables (the cassava,
+tania, pigeon-pea, and others), and frequently bananas, though, as
+taking more nutriment from the soil, they are sometimes objected to.
+But the seedling cacao needs a shade, and as it is some years before
+it comes into bearing, it is usual to plant the "catch crop" for the
+sake of a small return on the land, as well as to meet this need.</p>
+
+<p>In Trinidad, at the same time that the cacao<a name="FNanchor_10_10" id="FNanchor_10_10"></a><a href="#Footnote_10_10" class="fnanchor">[10]</a> is planted at about
+twelve feet centres, large forest trees are also planted at from fifty
+to sixty feet centres, to provide permanent shade. The tree most used
+for this purpose is the <i>Bois Immortelle</i> (<i>Erythrina umbrosa</i>); but
+others are also employed, and experiments are <!-- Page 29 --><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29"></a>now being made on some
+estates to grow rubber as a shade tree. In recent clearings in Samoa,
+trees are left standing at intervals to serve this end.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="g017" id="g017"></a><img src="images/g017.jpg" width="600" height="407" alt="Samoa: Cacao in its fourth Year." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Samoa: Cacao in its fourth Year.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>In Grenada, British West Indies, and some other districts, shade is
+entirely dispensed with, and the trees are planted at about eight feet
+centres, thus forming a denser foliage. By this means at least 500
+trees will be raised on an acre, against less than 300 in Trinidad,
+the result showing almost invariably a larger output from the Grenada
+estates. This practice is better suited to steep hillside plantations
+than to those in open valleys or on the plains.</p>
+
+<p>The cacao leaves, at first a tender yellowish-brown, ultimately turn
+to a bright green, and attain a considerable size, often fourteen to
+eighteen inches in length, sometimes even larger. The tree is subject
+to scale insects, which attack the leaf, also to grubs, which quickly
+rot the limbs and trunks, this last being at one time a very serious
+pest in Ceylon. If left to Nature the trees are quickly covered
+lichen, moss, "vines," ferns, and innumerable <!-- Page 30 --><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30"></a>parasitic growths, and
+the cost of keeping an estate free from all the natural enemies which
+would suck the strength of the tree and lessen the crop is very great.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="g018" id="g018"></a><img src="images/g018.jpg" width="600" height="410" alt="Young Cultivation, with catch Crop of Bananas, Cassava,
+and Tania: Trinidad." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Young Cultivation, with catch Crop of Bananas, Cassava,
+and Tania: Trinidad.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The cacao will bloom in its third year, but does not bear fruit till
+its fourth or fifth. The flower is small, out of all proportion to the
+size of the mature fruit. Little clusters of these tiny pink and
+yellow blossoms show in many places along the old wood of the tree,
+often from the upright trunk itself, and within a few inches of the
+ground; they are extremely delicate, and a planter will be satisfied
+if every third or fourth produces fruit. In dry weather or cold, or
+wind, the little pods only too quickly shrivel into black shells; but
+if the season be good they as quickly swell, till, in the course of
+three or four months, they develop into full grown pods from seven to
+twelve inches long. During the last month of ripening they are subject
+to the attack of a fresh group of enemies&mdash;squirrels, monkeys, rats,
+birds, deer, and others, some of them particularly annoying, as it is
+often found that when but a small hole <!-- Page 31 --><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31"></a>has been made, and a bean or
+so extracted, the animal passes on to similarly attack another pod;
+such pods rot at once. Snakes generally abound in the cacao regions,
+and are never killed, being regarded as the planter's best friends,
+from their hostility to his animal foes. A boa will probably destroy
+more than the most zealous hunter's gun.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
+<a name="g019" id="g019"></a><img src="images/g019.jpg" width="300" height="184" alt="PODS OF CACAO THEOBROMA." title="" />
+<span class="caption">PODS OF CACAO THEOBROMA.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>From its twelfth to its sixtieth year, or later, each tree will bear
+from fifty to a hundred and fifty pods, according to the season, each
+pod containing from thirty-six to forty-two beans. Eleven pods will
+produce about a pound of cured beans, and the average yield of a large
+estate will be, in some cases, four hundredweight <!-- Page 32 --><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32"></a>per acre, in
+others, twice as much. The trees bear nearly all the year round, but
+only two harvests are gathered, the most abundant from November to
+January, known as the "Christmas crop," and a smaller picking about
+June, known as the "St. John's crop." The trees throw off their old
+leaves about the time of picking, or soon after; should the leaves
+change at any other time, the young flower and fruit will also
+probably wither.</p>
+
+<p>Of the many varieties of the cacao, the best known are the <i>criollo</i>,
+<i>forastero</i>, and <i>calabacilla</i>. The <i>criollo</i> ("native") fruit is of
+average size, characterized by a "pinched" neck and a curving point.
+This is the best kind, though not the most productive; it is largely
+planted in Venezuela, Columbia and Ceylon, and produces a bean light
+in colour and delicate in flavour. The <i>forastero</i> ("foreign") pod is
+long and regular in shape, deeply furrowed, and generally of a rough
+surface. The <i>calabacilla</i> ("little calabash") is smooth and round,
+like the fruit after which it is named. All varieties are seen in
+bearing with red, yellow, purple, and sometimes green <!-- Page 33 --><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33"></a>pods, the colour
+not being necessarily an indication of ripeness.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 403px;">
+<a name="g020" id="g020"></a><img src="images/g020.jpg" width="403" height="600" alt="Varieties of the Cacao." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Varieties of the Cacao.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>On breaking open the pod, the beans are seen clinging in a cluster
+round a central fibre, the whole embedded in a white sticky pulp,
+through which the red skin of the cacao-bean shows a delicate pink.
+The pulp has the taste of acetic acid, refreshing in a hot climate,
+but soon dries if exposed to the sun and air. The pod or husk is of a
+porous, woody nature, from a quarter to half an inch thick, which,
+when thrown aside on warm moist soil, rots in a day or two.</p>
+
+<p>Much has been written of life on a cocoa estate; and all who have
+enjoyed the proverbial hospitality of a West Indian or Ceylon planter,
+highly praise the conditions of their life. The description of an
+estate in the northern hills of Trinidad will serve as an example. The
+other industry of this island is sugar, in cultivating which the
+coloured labourers work in the broiling sun, as near to the steaming
+lagoon as they may in safety venture. Later on in the season the long
+rows between the stifling <!-- Page 34 --><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34"></a>canes have to be hoed; then, when the time
+of "crop" arrives, the huge mills in the <i>usine</i> are set in motion,
+and for the longest possible hours of daylight the workers are in the
+field, loading mule-cart or light railway with massive canes. In the
+yard around the crushing-mills the shouting drivers bring their
+mule-teams to the mouth of the hopper, and the canes are bundled into
+the crushing rollers with lightning speed. The mills run on into the
+night, and the hours of sleep are only those demanded by stern
+necessity, until the crop is safely reaped and the last load of canes
+reduced to shredded <i>megass</i> and dripping syrup.</p>
+
+<p>But upon the cocoa estate there is lasting peace. From the railway on
+the plain we climb the long valley, our strong-boned mule or lithe
+Spanish horse taking the long slopes at a pleasant amble, standing to
+cool in the ford of the river we cross and re-cross, or plucking the
+young shoots of the graceful bamboos so often fringing our path.
+Villages and straggling cottages, with palm thatch and <i>adobe</i> walls,
+are <!-- Page 35 --><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35"></a>passed, orange or bread-fruit shading the little garden, and
+perhaps a mango towering over all. The proprietor is still at work on
+the plantation, but his wife is preparing the evening meal, while the
+children, almost naked, play in the sunshine.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="g021" id="g021"></a><img src="images/g021.jpg" width="600" height="402" alt="The Home of the Cacao.
+
+(One of Messrs. Cadburys&#39; Estates, Maracas, Trinidad)" title="" />
+<span class="caption">The Home of the Cacao.<br />
+(<i>One of Messrs. Cadburys&#39; Estates, Maracas, Trinidad.</i>)</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The cacao-trees of neighbouring planters come right down to the ditch
+by the roadside, and beneath dense foliage, on the long rows of stems
+hang the bright glowing pods. Above all towers the <i>bois immortelle</i>,
+called by the Spaniards <i>la madre del cacao</i>, "the mother of the
+cacao." In January or February the <i>immortelle</i> sheds its leaves and
+bursts into a crown of flame-coloured blossom. As we reach the
+shoulder of the hill, and look down on the cacao-filled hollow, with
+the <i>immortelle</i> above all, it is a sea of golden glory, an
+indescribably beautiful scene. Now we note at the roadside a plant of
+dragon's blood, and if we peer among the trees there is another just
+within sight; this, therefore, is the boundary of two estates. At an
+opening in the trees a boy slides aside the long bamboos which form
+the gateway, and a short canter along <!-- Page 36 --><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36"></a>a grass track brings us to the
+open savanna or pasture around the homestead.</p>
+
+<p>Here are grazing donkeys, mules, and cattle, while the chickens run
+under the shrubs for shelter, reminding one of home. The house is
+surrounded with crotons and other brilliant plants, beyond which is a
+rose garden, the special pride of the planter's wife. If the sun has
+gone down behind the western hills, the boys will come out and play
+cricket in the hour before sunset. These savannas are the beauty-spots
+of a country clothed in woodland from sea-shore to mountain-top.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="g022" id="g022"></a><img src="images/g022.jpg" width="600" height="407" alt="Ortinola, Maracas, Trinidad." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Ortinola, Maracas, Trinidad.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Next morning we are awaked by a blast from a conch-shell. It is 6.30,
+and the mist still clings in the valley; the sun will not be over the
+hills for another hour or more, so in the cool we join the labourers
+on the mule-track to the higher land, and for a mile or more follow a
+stream into the heart of the estate. If it is crop-time, the men will
+carry a <i>goulet</i>&mdash;a hand of steel, mounted on a long bamboo&mdash;by the
+sharp edges of which the pods are cut from the higher branches without
+<!-- Page 37 --><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37"></a>injury to the tree. Men and women all carry cutlasses, the one
+instrument needful for all work on the estate, serving not only for
+reaping the lower pods, but for pruning and weeding, or "cutlassing,"
+as the process of clearing away the weed and brush is called.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a name="g023" id="g023"></a><img src="images/g023.jpg" width="400" height="128" alt="GOULET AND WOODEN SPOON." title="" />
+<span class="caption">GOULET AND WOODEN SPOON.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 325px;">
+<a name="g024" id="g024"></a><img src="images/g024.jpg" width="325" height="149" alt="CUTLASSES." title="" />
+<span class="caption">CUTLASSES.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Gathering the pods is heavy work, always undertaken by men. The pods
+are collected from beneath the trees and taken to a convenient <!-- Page 38 --><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38"></a>heap,
+if possible near to a running stream, where the workers can refill
+their drinking-cups for the mid-day meal. Here women sit, with trays
+formed of the broad banana leaves, on which the beans are placed as
+they extract them from the pod with wooden spoons. The result of the
+day's work, placed in panniers on donkey-back, is "crooked" down to
+the cocoa-house, and that night remains in box-like bins, with
+perforated sides and bottom, covered in with banana leaves. Every
+twenty-four hours these bins are emptied into others, so that the
+contents are thoroughly mixed, the process being continued for four
+days or more, according to circumstances.</p>
+
+<p>This is known as "sweating." Day by day the pulp becomes darker, as
+fermentation sets in, and the temperature is raised to about 140&deg; F.
+During fermentation a dark sour liquid runs away from the sweat-boxes,
+which is, in fact, a very dilute acetic acid, but of no commercial
+value. During the process of "sweating" the cotyledons of the
+cocoa-bean, which are at first a purple colour and very compact in the
+skin, <!-- Page 39 --><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39"></a>lose their brightness for a duller brown, and expand the skin,
+giving the bean a fuller shape. When dry, a properly cured bean should
+crush between the finger and thumb.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="g025" id="g025"></a><img src="images/g025.jpg" width="600" height="405" alt="Cacao Drying in the Sun, Maracas, Trinidad." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Cacao Drying in the Sun, Maracas, Trinidad.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Finally the beans are turned on to a tray to dry in the sun. They are
+still sticky, but of a brown, mahogany colour. Among them are pieces
+of fibre and other "trash," as well as small, undersized beans, or
+"balloons," as the nearly empty shell of an unformed bean is called.
+While a man shovels the beans into a heap, a group of women, with
+skirts kilted high, tread round the sides of the heap, separating the
+beans that still hold together. Then the beans are passed on to be
+spread in layers on trays in the full heat of the tropical sun, the
+temperature being upwards of 140&deg; F.<a name="FNanchor_11_11" id="FNanchor_11_11"></a><a href="#Footnote_11_11" class="fnanchor">[11]</a> When thus spread, the women
+can readily pick out the foreign matter and undersized beans. Two or
+three days will suffice to dry them, after which they are put in bags
+for the markets of the world, and will keep with but very slight loss
+of weight or aroma for a year or more.</p>
+
+<p><!-- Page 40 --><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40"></a>Between crops the labourers are employed in "cutlassing," pruning,
+and cleaning the land and trees. Nearly all the work is in pleasant
+shade, and none of it harder than the duties of a market gardener in
+our own country; indeed, the work is less exacting, for daylight lasts
+at most but thirteen hours, limiting the time that a man can see in
+the forest: ten hours per day, with rests for meals, is the average
+time spent on the estate. Wages are paid once a month, and a whole
+holiday follows pay-day, when the stores in town are visited for
+needful supplies. Other holidays are not infrequent, and between crops
+the slacker days give ample time for the cultivation of private
+gardens.</p>
+
+<p>Labourers from India are largely imported by the Government under
+contract with the planters, and the strictest regulations are observed
+in the matter of housing, medical aid, etc. At the expiration of the
+term of contract (about six years) a free pass is granted to return to
+India, if desired. Many, however, prefer to remain in their adopted
+home, and become planters themselves, or continue to <!-- Page 41 --><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41"></a>labour on the
+smaller estates, which are generally worked by free labour, as the
+preparations for contracted labour are expensive, and can only be
+undertaken on a large scale.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="g026" id="g026"></a><img src="images/g026.jpg" width="600" height="410" alt="Labourer&#39;s Cottage, Cacao Estate, Trinidad." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Labourer&#39;s Cottage, Cacao Estate, Trinidad.
+<br />
+(Bread Fruit and Bananas.)</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The natives of India work on very friendly terms with the coloured
+people of the islands, the descendants of the old African slaves, and
+the cocoa estate provides a healthy life for all, with a home amid
+surroundings of the most congenial kind.<a name="FNanchor_12_12" id="FNanchor_12_12"></a><a href="#Footnote_12_12" class="fnanchor">[12]</a></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;">
+<a name="g027" id="g027"></a><img src="images/g027.jpg" width="350" height="174" alt="BASKETS OF CACAO ON PLANTAIN LEAVES." title="" />
+<span class="caption">BASKETS OF CACAO ON PLANTAIN LEAVES.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>In other cocoa-growing countries processes vary somewhat. On the
+larger estates artificial drying is slowly superseding the natural
+method, <!-- Page 42 --><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42"></a>for though the sun at its best is all that is needed, a
+showery day will seriously interfere with the process, even though the
+sliding roof is promptly pulled across to keep the rain from the
+trays.</p>
+
+<p>In Venezuela an old Spanish custom still prevails of sprinkling a fine
+red earth over the beans in the process of drying; this plan has
+little to recommend it, unless it be for the purpose of long storage
+in warehouses in the tropics, when the "claying" may protect the bean
+from mildew and preserve the aroma. In Ceylon it is usual to
+thoroughly wash the beans after the process of fermentation, thus
+removing all remains of the pulp, and rendering the shell more tender
+and brittle. Such beans arrive on the market in a more or less broken
+state, and it seems probable that they are more subject to
+contamination owing to the thinness of the shell. The best "estate"
+cocoa from Ceylon has a very bright, clear appearance, and commands a
+high price on the London market; this cocoa is of the pure <i>criollo</i>
+strain, light brown (pale burnt sienna) in colour.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 250px;">
+<a name="c003" id="c003"></a><a href="images/c003.jpg"><img src="images/c003_thumb.jpg" width="250" height="400" alt="CACAO TREE AND SEEDLING" title="" /></a>
+<span class="caption">CACAO TREE AND SEEDLING</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The valleys of Trinidad and Grenada have <!-- Page 43 --><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43"></a>grown cocoa for upwards of a
+hundred years, but up to the present time very little in the way of
+manuring has been done beyond the natural vegetable deposits of the
+forest. In many estates of recent years cattle have been quartered in
+temporary pens on the hills, moving on month by month, with a large
+central pen for the stock down on the savanna.</p>
+
+<p>The cocoa-beans are shipped to Europe in bags containing from one to
+one and a half hundredweight, and are disposed of by the London
+brokers nearly every Tuesday in the year at a special sale in the
+Commercial Sale Room in Mincing Lane.</p>
+
+<p>The cacao-tree has sometimes been grown from seed in hot-houses in
+this country, but always with difficulty, for not only must a mean
+temperature of at least 80&deg; F. be maintained, but the tree must be
+shielded from all draught. Among the most successful are the trees
+grown by Mr. James Epps, Jun., of Norwood, by whose kind permission
+the accompanying sketches from life were made. Success has only
+crowned his efforts after many years <!-- Page 44 --><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44"></a>of patient care. To grow a mere
+plant was comparatively simple, but to produce even a flower needed
+long tending, and involved much disappointment; while to secure
+fruition by cross-fertilization was a still more difficult task,
+accomplished in England probably on only one other occasion.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="g028" id="g028"></a><img src="images/g028.jpg" width="600" height="409" alt="Bournville: &quot;The Factory in a Garden.&quot;" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Bournville: &quot;The Factory in a Garden.&quot;</span>
+</div>
+<br />
+<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_10_10" id="Footnote_10_10"></a><a href="#FNanchor_10_10"><span class="label">[10]</span></a> For full information on the subject of planting, see
+Simmond's "Tropical Agriculture" (Spon, London and New York);
+Nicholl's "Tropical Agriculture" (Macmillan).</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_11_11" id="Footnote_11_11"></a><a href="#FNanchor_11_11"><span class="label">[11]</span></a> See plate facing <a href="#Page_77">p. 77</a>.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_12_12" id="Footnote_12_12"></a><a href="#FNanchor_12_12"><span class="label">[12]</span></a> See <a href="#c001"><i>frontispiece</i></a>.</p></div>
+</div>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="III_ITS_MANUFACTURE" id="III_ITS_MANUFACTURE"></a><!-- Page 45 --><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45"></a>III. ITS MANUFACTURE.</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 321px;">
+<a name="g029" id="g029"></a><img src="images/g029.jpg" width="321" height="300" alt="On Arrival at the Factory" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p>Up to this point the operations described have taken place in the
+lands where cacao is produced. To watch the further processes in its
+development as an article of food, let us in imagination follow one of
+the shiploads of cacao on its sea journey from the far tropics to one
+of the countries of the old world, until the sacks of beans are
+finally deposited at a cocoa factory. An English factory, that of
+Messrs. Cadbury, <!-- Page 46 --><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46"></a>at Bournville, affords an excellent illustration of
+its manufacture, not only because about a third of all the beans
+imported into this country are treated there, but also because this
+treatment is effected amid ideal surroundings. Half a century ago
+Messrs. Cadbury Brothers employed but a dozen or twenty hands, and
+until within the last twenty-six years the firm was established in the
+town of Birmingham. The need for greater accommodation for the rapidly
+growing business, and a desire to secure improved conditions for the
+work-people, led to the removal of the factory to a distance of about
+four miles south of the city. A number of cottages erected for the
+work-people in those early days became the nucleus of a great scheme
+which in the last few years has expanded into the model village of
+Bournville, a name taken from the neighbouring Bourn stream. Year by
+year the factory grew and developed, until the green hay-fields, with
+the trout stream flowing through them, became gradually covered with
+buildings. To-day the factory seems like a small town in itself,
+intersected by streets, and <!-- Page 47 --><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47"></a>surrounded by its own railway. But the
+greenness of the country clings wherever a chance is afforded, ivy and
+other creepers adorning the brick walls, window boxes bright with
+flowers, and trees planted here and there; for no opportunity has been
+neglected of making the surroundings beautiful.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="g030" id="g030"></a><img src="images/g030.jpg" width="600" height="405" alt="Bournville Cocoa Works: Office Buildings." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Bournville Cocoa Works: Office Buildings.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Taking train from the city, glimpses can be caught, as we near our
+destination, of the pretty houses and gardens of the village, forming
+a great contrast to the densely populated district of Stirchley on the
+other side of the line. Stepping on to the station, we are greeted by
+a whiff of the most delicious fragrance, which is quite enough of
+itself to betray the whereabouts of the great factory lying beneath
+us, of which from this point we have a fairly good bird's-eye view.
+Down the station steps, and a few yards up the lane to the left, with
+a playing field on one side, and on the other a plantation of
+fir-trees almost hiding the red brick and timbered gables of the
+office buildings, and we have arrived at the factory lodge. Looking
+through the open door down a <!-- Page 48 --><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48"></a>vista of archways bowered in clematis
+and climbing roses, with an alpine rock garden at each side of the
+broad walk, we might almost imagine ourselves to be at the entrance to
+some botanical gardens. But a glance at the thousands of check hooks
+covering the inner wall of the lodge informs us that more than 2,400
+girls pass in and out every day. The men's lodge is at a separate
+gate.</p>
+
+<p>Before entering the works, a few steps further along the road will
+give us some idea of the many advantages gained by moving the factory
+out into the country. Just opposite the lodge a sloping path leads to
+the cycle-house, where some 200 machines are stored during work hours.
+Beyond this, in the middle of a flower garden, stands the Estate
+Office of the Bournville Village Trust, and in the background higher
+up a girls' pavilion can be seen through the trees. Behind it stretch
+asphalt tennis-courts and playing-fields, bordered by a belt of fine
+old trees, under whose shade wind pretty shrubbery walks lined with
+rustic seats. A passage under the road leads straight from <!-- Page 49 --><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49"></a>the
+works into these beautiful grounds, and on a summer's day few prettier
+sights could be found than the numbers of white-robed girls who stream
+across in the dinner-hour to revel in the sunshine of the open fields,
+or sit in groups beneath the shady trees, enjoying a picnic lunch. A
+little further along the road the trees and the rhododendron bushes
+sweep backwards, leaving an open space, where a smooth lawn reaches to
+the front of a fine old mansion, for many years used as a home for
+some fifty of the work-girls whose own homes are at a distance, or who
+have no home at all. The fruit gardens and vineries belonging to
+"Bournville Hall" are used for the benefit of work-people who are ill.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="g031" id="g031"></a><img src="images/g031.jpg" width="600" height="407" alt="Coronation Cricket Pavilion, Bournville." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Coronation Cricket Pavilion, Bournville.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Turning back again, we find on the other side of the road a
+magnificent pavilion, the Coronation gift of the firm to their
+employees, which overlooks the broad level stretch of one of the
+finest cricket grounds in the Midlands. Away in the hollow beyond, the
+Bourn forms a picturesque, shady pool, part of which is used to make a
+capital open-air swimming bath for <!-- Page 50 --><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50"></a>the men. In the rising background
+are the pretty houses and the gardens of the model village. Still
+retracing our steps, we now come to the original cottages built by the
+firm. Plainer and less picturesque than those of more modern
+construction, their air of comfort, and the creepers which cover many
+of their walls, make them harmonize well with their surroundings. One
+of them is now used as a youths' club, providing games, a circulating
+library, and reading and lecture rooms. Another contains club rooms
+for the office staff. In passing we catch sight of a fine swimming
+bath for the girls.</p>
+
+<p>Through the lodge and under the clematis, a few steps bring us to the
+private railway-station, which in size would do credit to many a town.
+Here trucks are loaded with finished goods and despatched to their
+various destinations. Every working day of the year a long train,
+extending often in the busiest season to as many as forty truck-loads,
+steams out of this station to scatter the productions of Bournville
+over the face of the Earth. Close by the station we turn into the
+offices, where <!-- Page 51 --><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51"></a>the fittings and general arrangement convey an air of
+refined solidity according well with the goods produced.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="g032" id="g032"></a><img src="images/g032.jpg" width="600" height="402" alt="Girls&#39; Dining Hall, Bournville." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Girls&#39; Dining Hall, Bournville.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Before proceeding to study the manufacture of cocoa essence and
+chocolate from the bean as it is imported, it will be interesting to
+see the careful provision that is made for the health and cleanliness
+of the workers, for in connection with any food nothing is of greater
+importance than the circumstances attending its preparation. A
+gratuitous sick club is provided by the firm for the employees,
+including the services of a doctor and three trained nurses. A special
+retiring room, comfortably furnished, is provided for girls needing a
+quiet hour's rest.</p>
+
+<p>We are taken into the girls' dining-hall, capable of seating over two
+thousand at a time, fitted with benches, the backs of which are
+convertible into table tops. The far end of the dining-hall leads into
+the huge kitchen, to which the girls can bring their own dinners to be
+cooked, or where they can buy a large variety of things at
+coffee-house prices. Here again the health of the workers is carefully
+studied. <!-- Page 52 --><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52"></a>Fruit is made a speciality, an experienced buyer being
+employed to insure its better supply. A private dining-room is
+provided for the forewomen.</p>
+
+<p>Returning to the dining-hall, we descend a flight of steps into the
+spacious dressing-rooms, with vistas of wooden screens, filled on each
+side with numbered hooks. Here every morning the thousands of girls
+not only divest themselves of their outer garments, but change their
+dresses for washing frocks of white holland. The material for these is
+provided by the firm, free for the first, and afterwards at less than
+cost price, and the girls are required to start work in a clean frock
+every Monday morning. It will be seen at once how this helps them to
+keep neat and respectable; their strong white washing frocks only
+being soiled by their work, after which they change back into their
+own unstained clothes, and turn out looking as great a contrast to the
+usually pictured type of factory girl as can be imagined. The
+forewomen also conform to this arrangement, but wear washing <!-- Page 53 --><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53"></a>dresses
+of blue cotton to distinguish them from the girls. Round the walls of
+this vast dressing-room hot-water pipes are placed, and over these are
+shelves where on a rainy day wet boots can be deposited to dry.
+Specially thoughtful is the provision of rubber snow-shoes, imported
+from America for their use, and supplied under cost price. Beneath
+each stool, too, is a shelf for heavy boots, which can be replaced in
+the factory by slippers.</p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 192px;">
+<a name="g033" id="g033"></a><img src="images/g033.jpg" width="192" height="300" alt="Boot-shelf on stool" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p>Mention has already been made of the provision for illness or
+accidents, and of the care shown in the many arrangements for
+maintaining and improving the health and physical development of the
+girls. Further evidence of this is found in the airy and well-lighted
+work-rooms, from which funnels and exhaust fans collect and carry off
+all dust, <!-- Page 54 --><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54"></a>and improve the ventilation, so that in spite of the
+multitudinous operations in progress, the whole place is kept as
+"spick and span" as a ship of the line. But another aggressive sign of
+the firm's belief in the motto <i>mens sana in corpore sano</i> is the
+presence of a lady whose whole time is devoted to the physical culture
+of the girls. Trained in Swedish athletics, this lady and her
+assistant undertake the teaching, not only of gymnastics, but of
+swimming and numerous games. Every day drill classes are held, an
+opportunity being thus provided for all the younger girls to attend a
+half-hour's lesson twice a week.</p>
+
+<p>The result of all this thoughtful care is abundantly evident in the
+general air of health and comfort which pervades the whole factory,
+and in the bright faces which greet us at every turn, as we pass to
+and fro among the busy workers in this monster hive.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="g034" id="g034"></a><img src="images/g034.jpg" width="600" height="405" alt="The Dinner Hour, Bournville." title="" />
+<span class="caption">The Dinner Hour, Bournville.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Entering now, and turning into the private station, we see thousands
+of sacks of the freshly-imported beans being transferred to the
+neighbouring stores. The new arrivals <!-- Page 55 --><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55"></a>must first be sifted and picked
+over to get rid of any that may be unsound, or of any foreign material
+still remaining. This is accomplished by a sorting and winnowing
+machine, which delivers by separate shoots the cleaned beans, graded
+according to size, and the dust and foreign matter.</p>
+
+<p>A battery of roasters await the survivors of this operation, which are
+automatically conveyed to the hoppers. High-pressure steam supplies
+the requisite heat without waste or smoke, and as the huge drums
+slowly rotate, experienced workmen, on whose judgment great reliance
+is placed, carefully watch their contents, and decide when precisely
+the right degree of roasting has been attained to secure the richest
+aroma. Then they are passed through a cooling chamber, after which
+they are in condition for "breaking down."</p>
+
+<p>This consists in cracking the shells of the beans, and releasing the
+kernels or "nibs," from which the shells and dust are winnowed by a
+powerful blast. It is accomplished by carrying the beans mechanically
+to the cracking machine <!-- Page 56 --><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56"></a>at a considerable height, whence husks and
+nibs are allowed to fall before the winnower: the separated nibs are
+assorted according to size. Some of the shells find their way to the
+Emerald Isle, to be used by the peasants for the weak infusion called
+"miserables."</p>
+
+<p>Now comes the important process of grinding, performed between
+horizontal mill-stones, the friction of which produces heat and melts
+the "butter," while it grinds the "nibs" till the whole mass flows,
+solidifying into a brittle cake when cold.</p>
+
+<p>The thick fluid of the consistency of treacle flowing from the
+grinding-mills is poured into round metal pots, the top and bottom of
+which are lined with pads of felt, and these are, when filled, put
+under a powerful hydraulic press, which extracts a large percentage of
+the natural oil or butter. The pressure is at first light, but as soon
+as the oil begins to flow the remaining mass in the press-pot is
+stiffened into the nature of indiarubber, and upon this it is safe to
+place any pressure that is desired. As it is not advisable to extract
+all the <!-- Page 57 --><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57"></a>butter possible, the pressure is regulated to give the
+required result. In the end a firm, dry cake is taken from the press,
+and when cool is ground again to the consistency of flour; this is the
+"cocoa essence" for which the firm of Cadbury is so well known in all
+parts of the world.<a name="FNanchor_13_13" id="FNanchor_13_13"></a><a href="#Footnote_13_13" class="fnanchor">[13]</a></p>
+
+<p>Between cocoa and chocolate there are essential differences. Both are
+made from the cocoa nib, but whereas in cocoa the nibs are ground
+separately, and the butter extracted, in chocolate sugar and
+flavourings are added to the nib, and all are ground together into a
+paste, the sugar absorbing all the superfluous butter. If good quality
+cocoa is used, the butter contained in the nib is all that is needful
+to incorporate sugar and nib into one soft chocolate paste for
+grinding and moulding, but in the commoner chocolates extra cocoa
+butter has to be added. It is a regrettable fact that some
+unprincipled makers are tempted to use cheaper vegetable fats as
+substitutes for the natural butter, but none of these are really
+<!-- Page 58 --><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58"></a>palatable or satisfactory in use, and none of the leading British
+firms are guilty of using such adulterants, or of the still more
+objectionable practice of grinding cocoa-shells and mixing them with
+their common chocolates.<a name="FNanchor_14_14" id="FNanchor_14_14"></a><a href="#Footnote_14_14" class="fnanchor">[14]</a></p>
+
+<p>Flavouring is introduced according to the object in view; vanilla is
+largely employed in this country, though in France and Spain cinnamon
+is used, and elsewhere various spices. Willoughby, in his "Travels in
+Spain" (1664), writes:</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>"To every three and a half pounds of powder they add two pounds
+     of sugar, twelve Vanillos, a little Guiny pepper (which is used
+     by the Spaniards only), and a little Achiote<a name="FNanchor_15_15" id="FNanchor_15_15"></a><a href="#Footnote_15_15" class="fnanchor">[15]</a> to give a
+     colour. They melt the sugar, and then mingle all together, and
+     work it up either in rolls or leaves."</p>
+
+<p>     Another writer says: "The usual proportion at Madrid to a
+     hundred kernels of cocoa is to add two grains of Chile pepper,
+     a handful of anise, as many <!-- Page 59 --><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59"></a>flowers&mdash;called by the natives
+     vinacaxtlides, or little ears&mdash;six white roses in powder, a pod
+     of campeche,<a name="FNanchor_16_16" id="FNanchor_16_16"></a><a href="#Footnote_16_16" class="fnanchor">[16]</a> two drachms of cinnamon, a dozen almonds and
+     as many hazel-nuts, with achiote enough to give it a reddish
+     tincture; the sugar and vanilla are mixed at discretion, as
+     also the musk and ambergris. They frequently work this paste
+     with orange water, which they think gives it a greater
+     consistence and firmness."</p></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="g035" id="g035"></a><img src="images/g035.jpg" width="600" height="400" alt="Bournville Village: Laburnum Road." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Bournville Village: Laburnum Road.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>When the chocolate is sufficiently ground it is put into a stove to
+attain the correct temperature, and is then passed on to a
+moulding-table, where it is pressed into tin moulds, and shaken till
+it settles. After passing through a refrigerating chamber, the
+contents of these moulds are ready as cakes of hard chocolate for
+putting up in the well-known blue "Mexican," or the dark-red "Milk,"
+packets.</p>
+
+<p>It would, of course, be interesting to proceed to an inspection of the
+many processes involved in making all the dainties that are prepared
+with chocolate, and of the numerous trades concerned in the production
+of packages, boxes, and fancy cases, did space permit. Room after room
+might be visited, bright in <!-- Page 60 --><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60"></a>the daylight, or equally well lighted by
+electricity at night, humming with busy machines; some peopled with
+girls&mdash;among whom only men wearing a certain badge on their arms are
+allowed&mdash;some with men and boys, but all vibrating with a genial air
+of content as well as of busy occupation. Suffice it to say that half
+the handicrafts of the town seem represented in this centre of
+industry, in every department of which order and cheerfulness reign
+supreme. Each would require a chapter to do it justice, for everything
+employed in packing seems to be made on the premises, and that, too,
+on a system of piece-work paid for, not at the lowest possible price,
+but on the basis of securing a satisfactory living wage to the average
+worker. No wonder the faces around are bright, no wonder that openings
+at the Bournville factory are in demand, and that long service for the
+firm is the boast of so many of the employees. Among these, a little
+band of about thirty still upholds the traditions of the old firm that
+laid the foundations of the present company in the city of Birmingham.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="g036" id="g036"></a><img src="images/g036.jpg" width="600" height="403" alt="Packing Room, Bournville." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Packing Room, Bournville.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><!-- Page 63 --><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63"></a>The work hours are forty-eight each week, and the wages depend both
+on age and length of service, no man of twenty-three years of age and
+over twelve months' service receiving less than 24s. weekly. There are
+no deductions for sick club or fines, the sick fund, as before stated,
+being a free gift from the company. Offences and late time are entered
+in a record book, and an opportunity is given to wipe off all past
+records by two years' good service. The Athletic Club, with over 500
+voluntary subscribers, runs three cricket, four football, and two
+hockey teams, besides bowling, tennis, swimming, and other sports. One
+of the most interesting events of the Cricket Club is the annual match
+with a team representing Messrs. Fry and Sons, of Bristol, the oldest
+established cocoa firm in this country. In friendly opposition to the
+"Bournville Club" are the teams drawn from the "Youths' Club," and
+other outside organizations. A summer camp of over a hundred boys has
+been successfully held at the seaside for some years past.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
+<a name="g037" id="g037"></a><img src="images/g037.jpg" width="300" height="269" alt="Suggestion Box" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p>The recent introduction of the system of <!-- Page 64 --><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64"></a>suggestion-boxes throughout
+the works has been a great success. All employees are invited to make
+suggestions, which are dealt with each week by two committees, one for
+the men and one for the girls. Prizes amounting to about &pound;80 are
+offered every half-year for the best suggestions. During the first
+seven months of operation over 1,000 suggestions were received, a very
+large percentage of which were found sufficiently useful to be
+adopted. The result has been to draw all sections closer together,
+as each feels sure of getting due credit for original ideas. Many
+important alterations in organization and methods of working have been
+carried into effect, entirely owing to this scheme.<a name="FNanchor_17_17" id="FNanchor_17_17"></a><a href="#Footnote_17_17" class="fnanchor">[17]</a></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="g038" id="g038"></a><img src="images/g038.jpg" width="600" height="403" alt="Bournville Village: Linden Road." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Bournville Village: Linden Road.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>In order to encourage thrift (at the same time insuring privacy), a
+Savings Fund on a novel system has been working successfully for
+several years at Bournville. The fund was opened in Jubilee year by
+gifts of &pound;1 to each employee who had been three years in the service
+of the firm, and 10s. to those employed for a shorter time. Deposits
+are received, and amounts withdrawn in the usual way during the year,
+through collectors in each department, the depositors' cards being
+called in quarterly for audit. At the end of each financial year, in
+May, interest at the rate of four per cent. is added to the amount
+standing to the credit of each depositor, and the whole amount paid
+over to the Post Office Savings Bank. At this time also, Post Office
+officials attend at the works, and enter the amounts to the credit of
+each depositor, issuing new Post Office Savings books where necessary.
+This system secures absolute privacy for the permanent savings, and
+places the fund upon a secure basis. As some evidence that the scheme
+is appreciated, it may be stated that the total balance transferred to
+the Post Office Savings Bank has averaged over &pound;3,200 per annum.</p>
+
+<p>While in the district of Bournville, the opportunity must not be lost
+of becoming more closely acquainted with the village around the works.
+Away beyond the factory stretches an estate of nearly 500 acres, set
+apart for the purpose of "alleviating the evils which arise from the
+insanitary and insufficient accommodation supplied to large numbers of
+the working classes, and of securing to workers in factories some of
+the advantages of outdoor village life, with opportunities for the
+natural and healthful occupation of cultivating the soil." As yet only
+some 450 houses have been erected, pretty, picturesque cottages all of
+them, for the most part semi-detached, each on its sixth of an acre,
+<!-- Page 65 --><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65"></a>more or less, housing in all a population of about 2,000.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="g039" id="g039"></a><img src="images/g039.jpg" width="600" height="405" alt="Fishing Pool, Bournville." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Fishing Pool, Bournville.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>It was compassion for the ill-housed work-people of Birmingham that
+led Mr. George Cadbury, the founder of the village, to undertake so
+splendid a task, and having accomplished it, he crowned it by making a
+gift of the whole to the nation, placing its administration in the
+hands of a Trust. In doing so he laid down ideal stipulations for its
+development, and for the regulation of the villages which may in the
+future be built out of the income of the Trust. The principal of these
+are that factories or workshops shall never occupy more than one
+fifteenth of the area; that no house shall occupy more than one-fourth
+of the ground allotted to it; that in addition to wide roads and the
+ample gardens thus secured, one-tenth of the area shall be reserved
+for public open spaces for ever, parts of which are to be used as
+children's playgrounds. At present no intoxicants are sold or prepared
+on the estate, and if ever the trustees should see fit to permit this,
+it is to be as a co-operative undertaking, the profits of which <!-- Page 66 --><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66"></a>shall
+"be devoted to securing for the village community recreation and
+counter-attraction to the liquor trade as ordinarily conducted."</p>
+
+<p>Such a scheme affords a model for public bodies tackling the housing
+problem in earnest, and is fraught with great hopes for the future.
+The annual income, nearly &pound;6,000, is to be applied first to the
+development of this estate, and subsequently to the purchase of
+estates near Birmingham or other large towns, and the establishment of
+new villages thereon. A most important feature is, that although the
+rents are calculated to yield a fair return on the cost, including a
+proportion of development expenses, they are so low that a five-roomed
+cottage with bath and every convenience can be had for the rent of a
+two-roomed hovel in the slums. About two-fifths of the householders
+find employment in the cocoa works, the rest in the adjoining villages
+or in Birmingham.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="g040" id="g040"></a><img src="images/g040.jpg" width="600" height="411" alt="Almshouse Quadrangle, Bournville." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Almshouse Quadrangle, Bournville.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The gardens are a special feature, and before the houses are let, they
+are laid out by the Trust, and planted with fruit trees. All are well
+worked, and an average yield in vegetables <!-- Page 67 --><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67"></a>and fruit of nearly two
+shillings a week has been found possible, equivalent to something like
+&pound;60 an acre&mdash;more than twelve times as much food as would be produced
+if under pasturage. Two professional gardeners, with several men under
+them, are employed to look after the gardening department, and they
+are always ready to give any information or advice required by the
+tenants, so that the cottage gardens may be cultivated to the utmost
+profit. At present the public buildings consist of a village inn and
+baths; a school is shortly to be erected. Building is being steadily
+proceeded with, and although the development of the estate may be
+somewhat slow at first, it will advance with growing rapidity as the
+revenue increases. No wonder that there is an omnipresent air of
+comfort and prosperity, or that the death-rate is only about eight per
+thousand, in comparison with nineteen in the neighbouring city.</p>
+
+<p>No description of Bournville would be complete without a mention of
+its picturesque alms-houses. Here a haven of rest is provided <!-- Page 68 --><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68"></a>for
+some of those who, in their best years, have rendered faithful service
+to the firm. Thirty-three independent houses, brick and stone built,
+each with its own doorway to the quiet greensward, and its windows to
+the sun, form an inviting, reposeful quadrangle. They were the last
+gift of a life devoted to the interests of others, and the happiness
+and peace which characterize them are fitting memorials of the late
+Richard Cadbury, the elder of the two brothers who founded this great
+industry, and who have in their lives been favoured to see such untold
+blessing upon their labours.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 540px;">
+<a name="c004" id="c004"></a><a href="images/c004.jpg"><img src="images/c004_thumb.jpg" width="540" height="368" alt="Section of a Chocolate Factory." title="" /></a>
+</div>
+
+
+<h3><!-- Page 69 --><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69"></a>SECTION OF A CHOCOLATE FACTORY.</h3>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>The accompanying diagram of a chocolate factory is reproduced
+     by kind permission of the Berlin publishers of Dr. Paul
+     Zipperer's well-known work on "The Manufacture of Chocolate,"
+     which contains much valuable information. The machinery
+     described is that of Messrs. Lehmann, of Dresden, one of the
+     largest makers on the Continent.</p></div>
+
+<p>By means of the lift (1) all the raw materials, sugar, cocoa, packing,
+etc., are carried up to the store-rooms (2). Here are the machines for
+cleansing and picking the raw cocoa-beans, which are fed into the
+elevator boxes (3) above the cleansing machine (4), which frees them
+from dust; they then pass to the continuous band (5) on which they are
+picked over, and from which they fall into movable boxes (6). They are
+thence transferred to the hoppers (7), and fed by opening a slide in
+the hopper, into the roasting machine (8). The quantity contained in
+the hoppers is sufficient to charge the roasting machine. When the
+roasting is completed the cocoa is emptied into trucks (9), and
+carried to the exhaust arrangement (10), where the beans are cooled
+down, the vapour given off passing out into the open air. At the same
+time the air of the roasting chamber is sucked out through the
+funnel-shaped tube fitted to the cover. The roasted cocoa is then
+passed to boxes (11), to be <!-- Page 70 --><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70"></a>conveyed by the elevator to the crushing
+and cleansing machine (12). After being cleansed, the cocoa is carried
+in trucks (13) to hoppers (14) by which it is fed into the mills (15)
+on the lower floor. The sugar mill and sifting apparatus (26) placed
+near the crushing and cleansing machines are also fed by a hopper from
+above. Cocoa and sugar are now supplied to the mixing machine (16), to
+be worked together before passing to the rolls (17) by which the final
+grinding is effected. After passing once or more through the mill, the
+finished chocolate mass is taken to the hot-room (18), where it
+remains in boxes until further treated, after which it is taken to the
+moulding-room. In the mixer (19) the mass acquires the consistency and
+temperature requisite for moulding. The mass is then taken in lumps to
+the dividing machine (20), and cut into pieces of the desired size and
+weight. On the table (21) the moulds, lying upon boards, are filled
+with chocolate and then taken to the shaking-table (22). By means of a
+double lift (23) the moulded chocolate, still lying upon boards, is
+conveyed to the cooling-room or cellar, in which there are benches or
+frames (24) for receiving the moulds as they are slipped off the
+boards. The cellar has to be cooled artificially, according to
+situation. Adjoining the cellar is the wrapping-room (25), and further
+on the warehouse. The goods so far finished are then taken by the lift
+(1) to the rooms where they are packed for delivery.</p>
+
+<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_13_13" id="Footnote_13_13"></a><a href="#FNanchor_13_13"><span class="label">[13]</span></a> For ancient processes see <a href="#APPENDIX_I">Appendix I.</a>, p. 103.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_14_14" id="Footnote_14_14"></a><a href="#FNanchor_14_14"><span class="label">[14]</span></a> "Chocolate is an article so disguised in the manufacture
+that it is impossible to tell its purity or value. The only safeguard
+is to buy that which bears the name of a reputable maker."&mdash;Chambers,
+"Manual of Diet."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_15_15" id="Footnote_15_15"></a><a href="#FNanchor_15_15"><span class="label">[15]</span></a> The heart-leaved bixa, or anotta.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_16_16" id="Footnote_16_16"></a><a href="#FNanchor_16_16"><span class="label">[16]</span></a> Log-wood.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_17_17" id="Footnote_17_17"></a><a href="#FNanchor_17_17"><span class="label">[17]</span></a> The regulations adopted are so interesting that a place
+has been found for them in an <a href="#APPENDIX_II">Appendix</a> (p. 106).</p></div>
+</div>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="IV_ITS_HISTORY" id="IV_ITS_HISTORY"></a><!-- Page 71 --><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71"></a>IV. ITS HISTORY.</h2>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 229px;">
+<a name="g041" id="g041"></a><img src="images/g041.jpg" width="229" height="273" alt="OLD DRAWING OF AN AMERICAN INDIAN, WITH CHOCOLATE-POT AND WHISK." title="" />
+<span class="caption">[<i>From Dufour.</i>]<br />
+OLD DRAWING OF AN AMERICAN INDIAN, WITH CHOCOLATE-POT AND WHISK.</span>
+</div>
+<p>Although now cultivated in many other tropical countries, the cacao
+tree is one of the New World's rich gifts, first made known to our
+ancestors by the venturesome Spaniards, who probably became acquainted
+with its cultivation early in the sixteenth century, and spread the
+knowledge derived from the Mexicans and the <!-- Page 72 --><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72"></a>inhabitants of Central
+America to their other colonies. They found cacao a more veritable
+mine of wealth than even the gold of which they procured such store.
+It is indeed a curious coincidence that in those countries of gold the
+cacao-beans were not only the form in which tribute was paid, but
+themselves passed as currency. On account of their use for this
+purpose by the Mexicans, Peter Martyr styled them <i>amygdal&aelig;
+pecuniari&aelig;</i>&mdash;"pecuniary almonds"&mdash;exclaiming: "Blessed money, which
+exempts its possessors from avarice, since it cannot be hoarded or
+hidden underground!"</p>
+
+<p>Joseph Acosta tells us that "the Indians used no gold nor silver to
+trafficke in or buy withall ... and unto this day (1604) the custom
+continues amongst the Indians, as in the province of Mexico, instede
+of money they use cacao." The Aztecs also made use of cacao in this
+way, as many as 8,000 beans being legal tender&mdash;rather a task, one
+would imagine, for the money-changers.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="g042" id="g042"></a><img src="images/g042.jpg" width="600" height="397" alt="Native Americans Preparing and Cooking Cocoa.
+
+Ogibe&#39;s &quot;America,&quot; 1671." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Native Americans Preparing and Cooking Cocoa.
+<br />
+<i>Ogibe&#39;s &quot;America,&quot; 1671.</i></span>
+</div>
+
+<p>In Nicaragua this practice was so general that "none but the rich and
+noble could afford <!-- Page 73 --><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73"></a>to drink it, as it was literally drinking money."
+A rabbit sold there for ten beans, "a tolerably good slave" for a
+hundred. Slaves must, however, have been at a discount just then, if
+the silver value of the beans was no greater than when Thomas Candish
+wrote in 1586: "These cacaos serve amongst them both for meat and
+money ... 150 of them being as good as a Real of Plate"&mdash;about 6d. "A
+bag," of unknown size, "was worth ten crowns." One of the storehouses
+of Montezuma, the last of the old independent Mexican Chieftains,<a name="FNanchor_18_18" id="FNanchor_18_18"></a><a href="#Footnote_18_18" class="fnanchor">[18]</a>
+was found by the Spaniards to contain as much as 40,000 loads of this
+precious commodity, in wicker baskets which six men could not grasp.</p>
+
+<p>John Ogilby, writing in 1671 of the produce of America, says:</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>"But much more beneficial is the cacao, with which Fruit New
+     Spain drives a great Trade; nay, serves for Coin'd Money. When
+     they deliver a Parcel of Cacao, they tell them by five, thirty,
+     and a hundred. Their Charity to the Poor never exceeds above
+     one Cacao-nut. The chief Reason for which this Fruit is so
+     highly esteem'd, is for the Chocolate, which is <!-- Page 74 --><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74"></a>made of the
+     same, without which the Inhabitants (being so us'd to it) are
+     not able to live. Before the Spaniards made themselves Masters
+     of Mexico, no other Drink was esteem'd but that of the Cacao;
+     none caring for Wine, notwithstanding the Soil produces Vines
+     everywhere in great Abundance of itself."</p></div>
+
+<p>From contemporary travellers' records are to be gleaned many such
+strange facts and stranger fancies regarding the precious bean and its
+products, some of them extremely quaint and curious. Bancroft, for
+instance, writing of the Maya races of the Pacific, tells us that
+"before planting the seed they held a festival in honour of their
+gods, Ekchuah, Chac, and Hobnil, who were their patron deities. To
+solemnize it, they all went to the plantation of one of their number,
+where they sacrificed a dog having a spot on its skin the colour of
+cacao. They burned incense to their idols, after which they gave to
+each of the officials a branch of the cacao plant." Palacio also tells
+us that "the Pipiles, before beginning to plant, gathered all seeds in
+small bowls, after performing certain rites with them before the idol,
+among which <!-- Page 75 --><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75"></a>was the drawing of blood from different parts of the body
+with which to anoint the idol;" and, as Ximinez states, "the blood of
+slain fowls was sprinkled over the land to be sown."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;">
+<a name="g043" id="g043"></a><img src="images/g043.jpg" width="350" height="276" alt="[From Bontekoe." title="" />
+<span class="caption">[<i>From Bontekoe.</i>]<br />
+A CACAO PLANTATION.<br />
+(<i>One of the earliest illustrations of this subject known, showing the
+shade trees, and beans drying.</i>)</span>
+</div>
+<p>The idea that secret rites were necessary at the planting of cacao to
+counteract their ignorance of its requirements was long current also
+among the superstitious Spaniards, who similarly accounted for the
+early failures of the English, as witness the following amusing
+<!-- Page 76 --><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76"></a>extract from a contribution to the <i>Harleian Miscellany</i> in 1690:</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>"Cocoa is now a commodity to be regarded in our colonies,
+     though at first it was the principal invitation to the peopling
+     of Jamaica, for those walks the Spaniards left behind them
+     there, when we conquered it, produced such prodigious profit
+     with so little trouble that Sir Thomas Modiford and several
+     others set up their rests to grow wealthy therein, and fell to
+     planting much of it, which the Spanish slaves had always
+     foretold would never thrive, and so it happened: for, though it
+     promised fair and throve finely for five or six years, yet
+     still at that age, when so long hopes and cares had been wasted
+     upon it, withered and died away by some unaccountable cause,
+     though they imputed it to a black worm or grub, which they
+     found clinging to its roots.... And did it not almost
+     constantly die before, it would come into perfection in fifteen
+     years' growth and last till thirty, thereby becoming the most
+     profitable tree in the world, there having been &pound;200 sterling
+     made in one year of an acre of it. But the old trees, being
+     gone by age and few new thriving, as the Spanish negroes
+     foretold, little or none now is produced worthy the care and
+     pains in planting and expecting it. Those slaves gave a
+     superstitious reason for its not <!-- Page 77 --><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77"></a>thriving, many religious
+     rites being performed at its planting by the Spaniards, which
+     their slaves were not permitted to see. But it is probable
+     that, where a nation as they removed the art of making
+     cochineal and curing vanilloes into their inland provinces,
+     which were the commodities of those islands in the Indians'
+     time, and forbade the opening of any mines in them for fear
+     some maritime nation might be invited to the conquering of
+     them, so they might, likewise, in their transplanting cocoa
+     from the Caracas and Guatemala, conceal wilfully some secret in
+     its planting from their slaves, lest it might teach them to set
+     up for themselves by being able to produce a commodity of such
+     excellent use for the support of man's life, with which alone
+     and water some persons have been necessitated to live ten weeks
+     together, without finding the least diminution of health or
+     strength."</p></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="g044" id="g044"></a><img src="images/g044.jpg" width="600" height="410" alt="Grenada, B.W.I.: Samaritan Estate
+
+(Showing trays which slide on rails; the iron covers slide over the
+whole in case of wet.)" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Grenada, B.W.I.: Samaritan Estate
+<br />
+(Showing trays which slide on rails; the iron covers slide over the
+whole in case of wet.)</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>However valuable this last quality rendered the newly-discovered
+drink, its method of preparation and the unwonted spices employed
+prevented its ready adoption abroad, although the Spaniards and
+Portuguese took to it more kindly than some of the northern races.
+Joseph Acosta, writing of Mexico and Peru, says:</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>"The cocoa is a fruite little less than almonds, yet more<!-- Page 78 --><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78"></a>
+     fatte, the which being roasted hath no ill taste. It is so much
+     esteemed among the Indians (yea, among the Spaniards), that it
+     is one of the richest and the greatest traffickes of New Spain.
+     The chief use of this cocoa is in a drincke which they call
+     chocholat&eacute;, whereof they make great account, foolishly and
+     without reason: for it is loathsome to such as are not
+     acquainted with it, having a skumme or frothe that is very
+     unpleasant to taste, if they be not well conceited thereof. Yet
+     it is a drincke very much esteemed among the Indians, whereof
+     they feast noble men as they passe through their country. The
+     Spaniards, both men and women, that are accustomed to the
+     country, are very greedy of this chocholat&eacute;. They say they make
+     diverse sortes of it, some hote, some colde, and put therein
+     much of that chili: yea, they make paste thereof, the which
+     they say is good for the stomacke, and against the catarre."</p></div>
+
+<p><!-- Page 79 --><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79"></a>But this was not the only medicinal property attributed to "the food
+of the gods," for the Aztecs used to prescribe as a cure for
+diarrh&oelig;a and dysentery a potion prepared of cacao mixed with the
+ground bones of their giant ancestors, exhumed in the mountains. Such
+a very active principle was sure to make its enemies too, and several
+amusing attacks have survived to witness their own refutation. It was
+regarded by some as a violent inflamer of the passions, which should
+be prohibited to the monks; for, as one writer puts it, "if such an
+interdiction had existed, the scandal with which that holy order has
+been branded might have proved groundless." As late as 1712, after its
+use had become established in this country, the mentor of the
+<i>Spectator</i> writes: "I shall also advise my fair readers to be in a
+particular manner careful how they meddle with romances, chocolates,
+novels, and the like inflamers, which I look upon as very dangerous to
+be made use of during this great carnival" (the month of May).</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;">
+<a name="g045" id="g045"></a><img src="images/g045.jpg" width="350" height="210" alt="MEXICAN DRINKING-VESSELS, ROLLING-PIN AND WHISK." title="" />
+<span class="caption">MEXICAN DRINKING-VESSELS, ROLLING-PIN AND WHISK.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Some accounted for the assumed ill-effects of <!-- Page 80 --><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80"></a>cocoa to its admixture
+with sugar in the form of chocolate, for a few years earlier a London
+doctor had declared that "coffee, chocolate, and tea were at the first
+used only as medicines while they continued unpleasant, but since they
+were made delicious with sugar they are become poison." Similarly, an
+anonymous assailant in a pamphlet "Printed at the Black Boy, over
+against St. Dunstan's Church, in Fleet Street," exclaims:</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>"As for the great quantity of sugar which is commonly put in,
+     it may destroy the native and genuine temper of the chocolate,
+     sugar being such a corrosive salt, and such an hypocritical
+     enemy of the body. Simeon Pauli (a learned Dane) thinks sugar
+     to be one cause of our English consumption, and Dr. Willis
+     blames it as one of our universal scurvies: therefore, when
+     chocolate produces any ill effects, they may be often imputed
+     to the great superfluity of its sugar."</p></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 418px;">
+<a name="g046" id="g046"></a><img src="images/g046.jpg" width="418" height="600" alt="Cacao Tree, Trinidad." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Cacao Tree, Trinidad.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>In the New World fewer questions were raised, and the only
+conscientious objection appears to have been felt by a Bishop of
+Chiapa, whose performance of the Mass was disturbed <!-- Page 81 --><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81"></a>by its use. The
+story is told in Gaze's "New Survey of the West Indies," published in
+1648, and is worth repetition. It is well to bear in mind his
+information that "two or three hours after a good meal of three or
+four dishes of mutton, veal or beef, kid, turkeys or other fowles, our
+stomackes would bee ready to faint, and so wee were fain to support
+them with a cup of chocolatte."</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>"The women of that city, it seems, pretend much weakness and
+     squeamishness of stomacke, which they say is so great that they
+     are not able to continue in church while the mass is briefly
+     hurried over, much lesse while a solemn high mass is sung and a
+     sermon preached, unles they drinke a cup of hot chocolatte and
+     eat a bit of sweetmeats to strengthen their stomackes. For this
+     purpose it was much used by them to make their maids bring them
+     to church, in the middle of mass or sermon, a cup of
+     chocolatte, which could not be done to all without a great
+     confusion and interrupting both mass and sermon. The Bishop,
+     perceiving this abuse, and having given faire warning for the
+     omitting of it, but all without amendment, thought fit to fix
+     in writing upon the church dores an excommunication against all
+     such as should <!-- Page 82 --><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82"></a>presume at the time of service to eate or
+     drinke within the church. This excommunication was taken by
+     all, but especially by the gentlewomen, much to heart, who
+     protested, if they might not eate or drinke in the church, they
+     could not continue in it to hear what otherwise they were bound
+     unto. But none of these reasons would move the Bishop. The
+     women, seeing him so hard to be entreated, began to slight him
+     with scornefull and reproachfull words: others slighted his
+     excommunication, drinking in iniquity in the church, as the
+     fish doth water, which caused one day such an uproar in the
+     Cathedrall that many swordes were drawn against the Priests,
+     who attempted to take away from the maids the cups of
+     chocolatte which they brought unto their mistresses, who at
+     last, seeing that neither faire nor foule means would prevail
+     with the Bishop, resolved to forsake the Cathedrall: and so
+     from that time most of the city betooke themselves to the
+     Cloister Churches, where by the Nuns and Fryers they were not
+     troubled....</p>
+
+<p>     "The Bishop fell dangerously sick. Physicians were sent for far
+     and neere, who all with a joynt opinion agreed that the Bishop
+     was poisoned. A gentlewoman, with whom I was well acquainted,
+     was commonly censured to have prescribed such a cup of
+     chocolatte to be ministered by the Page, which poisoned him who
+     so rigorously had forbidden <!-- Page 83 --><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83"></a>chocolatte to be drunk in the
+     church. Myself heard this gentlewoman say that the women had no
+     reason to grieve for him, and that she judged, he being such an
+     enemy to chocolatte in the Church, that which he had drunk in
+     his house had not agreed with his body. And it became
+     afterwards a Proverbe in that country: 'Beware of the
+     chocolatte of Chiapa!' ... that poisoning and wicked city,
+     which truly deserves no better relation than what I have given
+     of the simple Dons and the chocolatte-confectioning Do&ntilde;as."</p></div>
+
+<p>It was only natural that the nuns and friars of the cloister churches
+should raise no objection to this practice of chocolate drinking, for
+we read further that two of these cloisters were "talked off far and
+near, not for their religious practices, but for their skill in making
+drinkes which are used in those parts, the one called chocolatte,
+another atolle. Chocolatte is (also) made up in boxes, and sent not
+only to Mexico, but much of it yearly transported to Spain."</p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 180px;">
+<a name="g047" id="g047"></a><img src="images/g047.jpg" width="180" height="400" alt="MODERN MEXICAN COCOA WHISK WITH LOOSE RINGS.
+
+(Brought home by the author.)" title="" />
+<span class="caption">MODERN MEXICAN COCOA WHISK WITH LOOSE RINGS.
+<br />
+(<i>Brought home by the author.</i>)</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><!-- Page 84 --><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84"></a>The introduction of cocoa into Europe, indeed, as well as its
+cultivation for the European market, is due rather to the Jesuit
+missionaries than to the explorers of the Western Hemisphere. It was
+the monks, too, who about 1661 made it known in France. It is curious,
+therefore, to notice the contest that at one time raged among
+ecclesiastics as to whether it was lawful to make use of chocolate in
+Lent; whether it was to be regarded as food or drink. A consensus of
+opinion on the subject, published in Venice in 1748, states that</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>"Among the first Probabilist Theologians who undertook to write
+     entire Treatises and to collect all the possible reasons as to
+     whether the Indian beverage (chocolate) could agree with
+     European fasting, was Father Tommaso Hurtado. He employed the
+     whole of the Tenth Treatise of the second volume of the 'Moral
+     Resolutions,' printed in 1651, and added thereto an Appendix of
+     more chapters.</p>
+
+<p>     "Father Diana found reason for acquitting the consciences of
+     those who, in time of fasting, should drink chocolate. Father
+     Hurtado, more courageous withal, and more benign than Diana,
+     does not speak of this treatise in order to investigate the
+     law; the nature of <!-- Page 85 --><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85"></a>fasting admits drinking without eating.
+     Therefore consumers are, without the help of casuists, troubled
+     themselves and afflicted, when in Lent they empty chocolate
+     cups. Excited on the one hand by the pungent cravings of the
+     throat to moisten it, reproved on the other by breaking their
+     fast, they experience grave remorse of conscience; and, with
+     consciences agitated and torn with drinking the sweet beverage,
+     they sin. Under the guidance of these skilful theologians, the
+     remorse aroused by natural and Divine light being blunted,
+     Christians drink joyfully. For all agree that he will break his
+     fast who eats any portion of chocolate, which, dissolved and
+     well mixed with warm water, is not prejudicial to keeping a
+     fast. This is a sufficiently marvellous presupposition. He who
+     eats 4 ozs. of exquisite sturgeon roasted has broken his fast;
+     if he has it dissolved and prepared in an extract of thick
+     broth, he does not sin."</p></div>
+
+<p>As for the introduction of cocoa into this country, the contemporary
+Gaze tells us that</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>"Our English and Hollanders make little use of it when they
+     take a prize at sea, as, not knowing the secret virtue and
+     quality of it for the good of the stomach, of whom I have heard
+     the Spaniards say, when we have taken a good prize, a ship
+     laden <!-- Page 86 --><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86"></a>with cocoa, in anger and wrath we have hurled overboard
+     this good commodity, not regarding the worth of it."</p></div>
+
+<p>About the time of the Commonwealth, however, the new drink began to
+make its way among the English, and the <i>Public Advertiser</i> of 1657
+contains the notice that "in Bishopsgate Street, in Queen's Head
+Alley, at a Frenchman's house, is an excellent West India drink,
+called chocolate, to be sold, where you may have it ready at any time,
+and also unmade, at reasonable rates." These rates appear to have been
+from 10s. to 15s. a pound, a price which made chocolate, rather than
+coffee, the beverage of the aristocracy, who flocked to the
+chocolate-houses soon to spring up in the fashionable centres. Here,
+records a Spanish visitor to London, were to be found such members of
+the polite world as were not at the same time members of either House.
+The chocolate-houses were thus the forerunners of our modern clubs,
+and one of them, "The Cocoa Tree," early the headquarters of the
+Jacobite party, became subsequently recognised as the club of the
+<!-- Page 87 --><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87"></a>literati, including among its members such men as Garrick and Byron.
+White's Cocoa House, adjoining St. James' Palace, was even better
+known, eventually developing into the respectable White's Club, though
+at one time a great gambling centre.<a name="FNanchor_19_19" id="FNanchor_19_19"></a><a href="#Footnote_19_19" class="fnanchor">[19]</a></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 506px;">
+<a name="g048" id="g048"></a><img src="images/g048.jpg" width="506" height="600" alt="White&#39;s Club, on left of St. James&#39;s Palace." title="" />
+<span class="caption">White&#39;s Club, on left of St. James&#39;s Palace.<br />
+(<i>From a Drawing of the time of Queen Anne.</i>)</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>A little later the "Indian Nectar," recommended by a learned doctor on
+account of "its secret virtue," was to be obtained of "an honest
+though poor man" in East Smithfield at 6s. 8d. a pound, or the
+"commoner sort at about half the price," so that it was getting within
+more general reach. Subsequently the following advertisement appeared
+regarding a patented preparation of cocoa "now sold at 4s. 9d. per
+pound."</p>
+
+<p>"N.B.&mdash;The curious may be supplied with this superfine chocolate, that
+exceeds the finest sold by other makers, plain at 6s., with vanillos
+at 7s. To be sold for ready money only at Mr. Churchman's Chocolate
+Warehouse, at Mr. John Young's, in St. Paul's Churchyard, London, A.D.
+1732."</p>
+
+<p><!-- Page 88 --><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88"></a>The opportunities of increasing the revenue from the growing
+favourite were not lost sight of, and till 1820 its spread was checked
+by a duty of 1s. 6d. a pound, collected by the sale of stamped
+wrappers for each pound, half-pound, or quarter-pound, "neither more
+nor less," just as in the case of patent medicines at present.</p>
+
+<p>In the reign of George III. the duty on colonial cocoa was raised to
+1s. 10d. a pound, that on such as the East India Company imported to
+2s., and that on all other sources of supply to 3s. In the early years
+of the last century the cocoa imported from any country not a British
+possession was charged no less than 5s. 10d. a pound as excise, with
+an extra Custom's duty of from 2½d. to 4¾d. on entry for home
+consumption. This restrictive tariff was by degrees relaxed, but it is
+only since 1853 that the duty has been reduced to 2d. a pound on the
+manufactured article, or 1d. a pound on the raw material.</p>
+
+<p>While the heavy duties were in force, all houses in which the
+manufacture or sale of cocoa was carried on were compelled to have
+<!-- Page 89 --><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89"></a>the fact stated over their doors, under penalty of &pound;200 from the
+dealer having more than six pounds in his possession (who had to be
+licensed), and &pound;100 from the customer encouraging the illicit trade.
+No less than &pound;500 as fine and twelve months in the county gaol were
+inflicted for counterfeiting the stamp or selling chocolate without a
+stamp. To prevent evasion by selling the drink ready made, it was
+enacted under George I., whose physicians were extolling its medicinal
+virtues, that</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>"Notice shall be given by those who make chocolate for private
+     families, and not for sale, three days before it is begun to be
+     made, specifying the quantity, etc., and within three days
+     after it is finished the person for whom it is made shall enter
+     the whole quantity on oath, and have it duly stamped."</p></div>
+
+<p>Nothing is more eloquent of the growing favour in which cocoa is held
+in this country, as its real value becomes more generally appreciated,
+than the remarkable progressive increase of the quantities imported
+during recent years, as will be seen from the table appended. These
+<!-- Page 90 --><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90"></a>quantities doubled between 1880 and 1890, and have since more than
+doubled again.</p>
+
+<h3>TABLE SHOWING THE QUANTITIES OF CACAO CLEARED FOR HOME CONSUMPTION
+SINCE 1880.</h3>
+
+
+<div class='center'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="0" summary="QUANTITIES OF CACAO CLEARED FOR HOME CONSUMPTION
+SINCE 1880.">
+<tr><td colspan="2"></td><td align='center'>lbs.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>1880</td><td>&nbsp;&nbsp;</td><td align='right'>10,556,159</td></tr>
+<tr><td>1881</td><td></td><td align='right'>10,897,795</td></tr>
+<tr><td>1882</td><td></td><td align='right'>11,996,853</td></tr>
+<tr><td>1883</td><td></td><td align='right'>12,868,170</td></tr>
+<tr><td>1884</td><td></td><td align='right'>13,976,891</td></tr>
+<tr><td>1885</td><td></td><td align='right'>14,595,168</td></tr>
+<tr><td>1886</td><td></td><td align='right'>15,165,714</td></tr>
+<tr><td>1887</td><td></td><td align='right'>15,873,698</td></tr>
+<tr><td>1888</td><td></td><td align='right'>18,227,017</td></tr>
+<tr><td>1889</td><td></td><td align='right'>18,464,164</td></tr>
+<tr><td>1890</td><td></td><td align='right'>20,224,175</td></tr>
+<tr><td>1891</td><td></td><td align='right'>21,599,860</td></tr>
+<tr><td>1892</td><td></td><td align='right'>20,797,283</td></tr>
+<tr><td>1893</td><td></td><td align='right'>20,874,995</td></tr>
+<tr><td>1894</td><td></td><td align='right'>22,441,048</td></tr>
+<tr><td>1895</td><td></td><td align='right'>24,484,502</td></tr>
+<tr><td>1896</td><td></td><td align='right'>24,523,428</td></tr>
+<tr><td>1897</td><td></td><td align='right'>27,852,152</td></tr>
+<tr><td>1898</td><td></td><td align='right'>32,087,084</td></tr>
+<tr><td>1899</td><td></td><td align='right'>34,013,812</td></tr>
+<tr><td>1900</td><td></td><td align='right'>37,829,326</td></tr>
+<tr><td>1901</td><td></td><td align='right'>42,353,724</td></tr>
+<tr><td>1902</td><td></td><td align='right'>45,643,784</td></tr>
+</table></div><br />
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 540px;">
+<a name="c005" id="c005"></a><a href="images/c005.jpg"><img src="images/c005_thumb.jpg" width="540" height="333" alt="Map and Chart of Cocoa-Producing Countries" title="" /></a>
+<span class="caption">Map and Chart of Cocoa-Producing Countries</span>
+</div><br />
+
+<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_18_18" id="Footnote_18_18"></a><a href="#FNanchor_18_18"><span class="label">[18]</span></a> Not an "Emperor," as reported by his conquerors.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_19_19" id="Footnote_19_19"></a><a href="#FNanchor_19_19"><span class="label">[19]</span></a> See <a href="#APPENDIX_III">Appendix III</a>.</p></div>
+</div>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="V_ITS_SOURCES_AND_VARIETIES" id="V_ITS_SOURCES_AND_VARIETIES"></a><!-- Page 91 --><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91"></a>V. ITS SOURCES AND VARIETIES.</h2>
+
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 300px;">
+<a name="g049" id="g049"></a><img src="images/g049.jpg" width="300" height="271" alt="Sacks of cacao beans" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p>Guayaquil, in the republic of Ecuador, on the west coast of South
+America, produces the largest output in the world. This cacao has a
+bold bean and a fine flavour, and is rich in theobromine; it is much
+valued on the market, and its strength and character render it
+indispensable to the manufacturer.</p>
+
+<p>The neighbouring countries of Columbia and Venezuela, facing the
+Caribbean Sea, have for centuries grown cacao of excellent quality.
+The <i>criollo</i> (creole) bean is generally used as seed, and for it high
+prices are obtained. Owing, however, to the unsettled state of <!-- Page 92 --><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92"></a>the
+republics and their unstable governments, its cultivation has gone
+back rather than forward during the past decade. With better
+administration and settled peace, great developments might easily be
+achieved. The British Royal Mail Steam Packet Company provides a good
+fortnightly service to England.</p>
+
+<p>In early times the Jesuit missionaries encouraged the natives to form
+small plantations on the borders of the river Orinoco, and Father
+Gumilla, in his "History of the Orinoco," says: "I have seen in these
+plains forests of wild cacao-trees, laden with bunches of pods,
+supplying food to an infinite multitude of monkeys, squirrels,
+parrots, and other animals."</p>
+
+<p>The name of "Soconosco" cocoa is still a guarantee of excellent
+quality. This district in Guatemala was in bygone days so noted for
+its cacao that the whole crop was monopolized for the use of the
+Spanish Court. In Central America, as in other countries, the
+Spaniards gathered more solid riches from the cacao than from the gold
+mines they hoped to discover.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="g050" id="g050"></a><img src="images/g050.jpg" width="600" height="403" alt="A Scene in the Maracas Valley, Trinidad." title="" />
+<span class="caption">A Scene in the Maracas Valley, Trinidad.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>British and Dutch Guiana produced but little <!-- Page 93 --><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93"></a>cacao as long as sugar
+realized high prices, but in comparatively recent years it has been
+more extensively planted, and the crops from the lowlands at the
+mouths of the great South American rivers have been very heavy.</p>
+
+<p>In French Guiana cacao was scarcely cultivated until about 1734, when
+a forest of it was discovered on a branch of the Yari, which flows
+into the Amazon. From this forest seeds were gathered, and plantations
+were laid out in Cayenne.</p>
+
+<p>The cacao of Par&aacute; in Brazil differs from all other growths; the bean
+is much smaller and rounder, and is elongated, but when well cured it
+is mild, and has a very pleasant flavour, highly valued by
+manufacturers. Bahia produces large quantities of cacao, formerly of
+an inferior quality, owing to careless cultivation and indiscriminate
+mixing of all that was brought from the interior, some of it wild and
+uncured. But now this state of things is being improved, and the good
+quality of "fermented" Bahian cacao is fully recognised.</p>
+
+<p>A little cacao is grown in the low-lying parts <!-- Page 94 --><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94"></a>of Rio Janeiro, but it
+is not to be met with further south than this. The part of Florida
+which borders the Gulf of Mexico and the southern part of Louisiana
+mark the northerly limit of its natural growth.<a name="FNanchor_20_20" id="FNanchor_20_20"></a><a href="#Footnote_20_20" class="fnanchor">[20]</a> A traveller in
+Louisiana in 1796 speaks of the cacao-tree among others as "covering
+with delightful shade the shores of the Mississippi," and on the banks
+of the Alatamaha in Georgia, but it is not cultivated so far north.</p>
+
+<p>At the present day the West India Islands rival the South American
+Continent in providing cocoa from the New World. Trinidad has for more
+than a century deservedly claimed to be the first of these
+cocoa-producing islands. As far back as the sixteenth century the
+Spaniards who first colonized the island were interested in the
+cultivation of cacao. In the year 1780 a French gentleman residing in
+the neighbouring island of Grenada visited Trinidad, and gave such a
+glowing account of its fertility <!-- Page 95 --><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95"></a>that agriculturists from France
+and elsewhere flocked to the colony, and ever since this date it has
+maintained a high standard of agricultural advance. The names of the
+cacao estates at the present day are nearly all Spanish or French, and
+throughout the British occupation of more than a hundred years the old
+families have in many cases held the same lands.<a name="FNanchor_21_21" id="FNanchor_21_21"></a><a href="#Footnote_21_21" class="fnanchor">[21]</a></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 540px;">
+<a name="c006" id="c006"></a><a href="images/c006.jpg"><img src="images/c006_thumb.jpg" width="540" height="416" alt="Map of Trinidad" title="" /></a>
+</div>
+
+<p>The oldest estates in the island lie in the northern valleys of Santz
+Cruz, Maracas, and Arima; but cultivation has been considerably
+extended in the Montserrat and Naparima districts, and more recently
+in almost every part of the island reached by the extension of the
+railway and the coasting steamboat. The Trinidad bean is the largest
+and finest flavoured, and commands a higher price on the market than
+any other from the West Indies.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 277px;"><!-- Page 96 --><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96"></a>
+<a name="g051" id="g051"></a><img src="images/g051.jpg" width="277" height="300" alt="MAP OF GRENADA." title="" />
+<span class="caption">MAP OF GRENADA.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Next in importance to Trinidad is the little island of Grenada; here
+cacao is the staple industry, the sugar estates that once lined the
+shores having entirely disappeared. Grenada cacao is smaller than that
+of Trinidad, possibly on account of the different method of planting
+described in a previous chapter, but the flavour of the bean is
+exceedingly good and regular, and the crop is bought up eagerly on the
+British and American markets. The other West Indian islands producing
+cocoa are <!-- Page 97 --><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97"></a>Jamaica and Dominica, where its cultivation is reviving;
+also St. Lucia, St. Vincent, Tobago, and Montserrat, each of which
+have a few plantations; those in St. Vincent suffered severely by the
+recent hurricane. The French islands of Guadeloupe and Martinique
+supply exclusively to the port of Havre; the cocoa from San Domingo is
+of a somewhat inferior quality. Cuba will probably considerably extend
+its output under American rule.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="g052" id="g052"></a><img src="images/g052.jpg" width="600" height="410" alt="A Hill Cacao Estate, Grenada, B.W.I." title="" />
+<span class="caption">A Hill Cacao Estate, Grenada, B.W.I.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 241px;">
+<a name="g053" id="g053"></a><img src="images/g053.jpg" width="241" height="300" alt="Map of Principe" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p>In the Eastern Hemisphere by far the largest supplies come from the
+small islands of St. Thom&eacute; and Principe, in the Gulf of Guinea,
+belonging to the Portuguese. These have in recent years proved
+especially adapted for the growth of the cacao, and the exports,
+especially from the island of St. Thom&eacute;, are very large; most of the
+crop finds its way to European markets, transhipping at Lisbon. There
+is little cacao grown in the mainland African colonies, though the
+German Government offers special inducements <!-- Page 98 --><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98"></a>in the Kameruns; no
+British African colony grows it to any extent. Fernando Po sends
+supplies to Spain, and occasionally on the London market strange
+packages made of rough cowhide stitched with leather thongs are seen,
+containing beans from Madagascar.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 248px;">
+<a name="g054" id="g054"></a><img src="images/g054.jpg" width="248" height="350" alt="Map of St. Thome" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="g055" id="g055"></a><img src="images/g055.jpg" width="600" height="413" alt="Ceylon: Carting Cacao to Rail." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Ceylon: Carting Cacao to Rail.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 237px;"><!-- Page 99 --><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99"></a>
+<a name="g056" id="g056"></a><img src="images/g056.jpg" width="237" height="350" alt="MAP OF CEYLON." title="" />
+<span class="caption">MAP OF CEYLON.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Further east are the plantations of Ceylon. In the hill districts, of
+which Matale is the centre, are many estates, some in joint
+cultivation of tea and cocoa. The output from this colony is at the
+present time nearly stationary. <!-- Page 100 --><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100"></a>The Dutch East Indian produce is
+almost exclusively shipped to Amsterdam.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;">
+<a name="g057" id="g057"></a><img src="images/g057.jpg" width="350" height="178" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p>In the preceding pages extracts have frequently been culled from
+writers of the past: in the literature of the present day Charles
+Kingsley's graphic account of Trinidad and its cacao and sugar
+plantations in "At Last" should be read <i>in extenso</i>. Another very
+interesting episode of modern date is the introduction of the cacao
+into the Samoan Islands in the Pacific by Robert Louis Stevenson.
+Writing to Sidney Colvin, on December 7, 1891, in one of his "Vailima
+Letters," he says:</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>"When I was filling baskets all Saturday, in my dull, mulish
+     way, perhaps the slowest worker there, surely the most
+     particular, and the only one that <!-- Page 101 --><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101"></a>never looked up or knocked
+     off, I could not but think I should have been sent on
+     exhibition as an example to young literary men. 'Here is how to
+     learn to write' might be the motto. You should have seen us;
+     the veranda was like an Irish bog, our hands and faces were
+     bedaubed with soil, and Faauma was supposed to have struck the
+     right note when she remarked (<i>&agrave; propos</i> of nothing), 'Too much
+     <i>eleele</i> (soil) for me.' The cacao, you must understand, has to
+     be planted at first in baskets of plaited cocoa-leaf.<a name="FNanchor_22_22" id="FNanchor_22_22"></a><a href="#Footnote_22_22" class="fnanchor">[22]</a> From
+     four to ten natives were plaiting these in the wood-shed. Four
+     boys were digging up soil and bringing it by the boxful to the
+     veranda. Lloyd and I and Belle, and sometimes S. (who came to
+     bear a hand), were filling the baskets, removing stones and
+     lumps of clay; Austin and Faauma carried them when full to
+     Fanny, who planted a seed in each, and then set them, packed
+     close, in the corners of the veranda. From 12 on Friday till 5
+     p.m. on Saturday we planted the first 1,500, and more than 700
+     of a second lot. You cannot dream how filthy we were, and we
+     were all properly tired."<a name="FNanchor_23_23" id="FNanchor_23_23"></a><a href="#Footnote_23_23" class="fnanchor">[23]</a></p></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="g058" id="g058"></a><img src="images/g058.jpg" width="600" height="412" alt="Samoa: A New Clearing for Cacao." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Samoa: A New Clearing for Cacao.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Three years later he records:</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>"I have been forbidden to work, and have been instead doing<!-- Page 102 --><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102"></a>
+     my two or three hours in the plantation every morning. I only
+     wish somebody would pay me &pound;10 a day for taking care of cacao,
+     and I could leave literature to others."</p></div>
+
+<p>Cacao cultivation in this island of Upolu has since that date
+developed wonderfully, and is attracting much attention, the first
+produce having been sold in Hamburg at a very high price. The consular
+report on Samoa published in February, 1903, states that "the mainstay
+of Samoa is cocoa," and it will be interesting to follow the progress
+of an industry of which the versatile Scotchman was an early pioneer.</p>
+
+<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_20_20" id="Footnote_20_20"></a><a href="#FNanchor_20_20"><span class="label">[20]</span></a> Florida even boasts a town of the name of Cocoa, but
+inquiries on the spot have failed to discover that any attempt was
+ever made to cultivate the plant there.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_21_21" id="Footnote_21_21"></a><a href="#FNanchor_21_21"><span class="label">[21]</span></a> Two of the coloured plates in this volume are
+reproductions of pictures by members of one of the oldest French
+families in the island, painted on their cocoa estate in the beautiful
+valley of Santa Cruz.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_22_22" id="Footnote_22_22"></a><a href="#FNanchor_22_22"><span class="label">[22]</span></a> Leaf of the coco-nut palm.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_23_23" id="Footnote_23_23"></a><a href="#FNanchor_23_23"><span class="label">[23]</span></a> See plates facing pp. <a href="#Page_27">27</a> and <a href="#Page_29">29</a>.</p></div>
+</div>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="APPENDIX_I" id="APPENDIX_I"></a><!-- Page 103 --><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103"></a>APPENDIX I.</h2>
+
+<h3>ANCIENT MANUFACTURE OF COCOA.</h3>
+
+
+<p>Most of the operations described are only the performance on a large
+scale by modern machinery of those employed by the Mexicans, and by
+those who learned from them, of whom we read:</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>"For this purpose they have a broad, smooth stone, well
+     polished or glazed very hard, and being made fit in all
+     respects for their use, they grind the cacaos thereon very
+     small, and when they have so done, they have another broad
+     stone ready, under which they keep a gentle fire.</p>
+
+<p>     "A more speedy way for the making up of the cacao into
+     chocolate is this: They have a mill made in the form of some
+     kind of malt-mills, whose stones are firm and hard, which work
+     by turning, and upon this mill are ground the cacaos grossly,
+     and then between other stones they work that which is <!-- Page 104 --><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104"></a>ground
+     yet smaller, or else by beating it up in a mortar bring it into
+     the usual form."
+</p></div>
+
+<p>A later writer remarks of this process:</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>"The Indians, from whom we borrow it, are not very nice in
+     doing it; they roast the kernels in earthen pots, then free
+     them from their skins, and afterwards crush and grind them
+     between two stones, and so form cakes of it with their hands."</p></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;">
+<a name="g059" id="g059"></a><img src="images/g059.jpg" width="350" height="167" alt="A MEXICAN METATE, OR GRINDING STONE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">A MEXICAN METATE, OR GRINDING STONE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>And, further on, in speaking of the Spaniards' mode of preparation, he
+says:</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>"They put them (the kernels) into a large mortar to reduce them
+     to a gross powder, which they afterwards grind upon a stone.
+     They make choice of a stone which naturally resists the fire,
+     from sixteen to eighteen inches broad, and about twenty-seven
+     or thirty long and three in thickness, and hollowed in <!-- Page 105 --><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105"></a>the
+     middle about one inch and a half deep. Under this they place a
+     pan of coals to heat the stone, so that the heat makes it easy
+     for the iron roller to make it so fine as to leave neither lump
+     nor the least hardness."</p></div>
+
+<p>At the present day, when the beans are plentiful on the cacao estates,
+but no machines for manufacture exist, the planters prepare a
+palatable drink by roasting the beans on a moving shovel or pan over
+the open fire, husking them by the time-honoured plan of tossing in
+the breeze, and grinding out on a flat stone in much the same manner
+as did the old Spaniards. The writer has even seen a little
+tobacco-press ingeniously adapted for the purpose of extracting the
+butter, the invention of Mr. J.H. Hart, of the Trinidad Botanical
+Gardens, a gentleman who has done much in the direction of
+investigating the best cacao for seed, and the most favourable methods
+of cultivation.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="APPENDIX_II" id="APPENDIX_II"></a><!-- Page 106 --><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106"></a>APPENDIX II.</h2>
+
+<h3>BOURNVILLE WORKS SUGGESTION SCHEME.</h3>
+
+
+<div class="center">OBJECTS.</div>
+
+<div class="right"><i>December, 1902.</i></div>
+
+<p>The objects in view are:</p>
+
+<p>1. To encourage our employ&eacute;s to make all the suggestions they can for
+the mutual welfare of the business and everyone connected with it.
+Even the smallest suggestion may be of value.</p>
+
+<p>2. To enable those in our employ to share in the benefit of the
+suggestions they make, and to receive personal recognition for them.</p>
+
+<p>3. To insure harmonious relations between all sections of the work.</p>
+
+
+<div class="center">PRIZES.</div>
+
+<p>Prizes of the undermentioned values will be given half-yearly for
+suggestions meriting reward:</p>
+
+<p>MEN'S DEPARTMENTS.&mdash;One of &pound;10; two of &pound;5; two of &pound;2 10s.; ten of &pound;1;
+fifteen of 10s.; thirty of 5s. <!-- Page 107 --><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107"></a>GIRLS' DEPARTMENTS.&mdash;One of &pound;5; two of
+&pound;2; eight of &pound;1; fifteen of 10s.; thirty of 5s.</p>
+
+
+<p>The following list will indicate on what lines suggestions may be
+made:</p>
+
+<p>1. Comfort, safety, or health of employ&eacute;s.</p>
+
+<p>2. Means by which waste of material may be avoided.</p>
+
+<p>3. Saving of time or expense.</p>
+
+<p>4. Improvements in machinery or in methods of working.</p>
+
+<p>5. Introduction of new goods, or new ideas.</p>
+
+<p>6. Calling attention to any existing defects.</p>
+
+<p>7. Suggestions affecting athletic and other clubs and societies,
+libraries, magazine, etc.</p>
+
+<p>8. Any suggestion not included in the above list will be welcomed.</p>
+
+
+<div class="center">REGULATIONS.</div>
+
+<p>Everyone, including foremen and forewomen, is encouraged to make
+suggestions which, if of value, will be eligible for the prizes
+mentioned above (excepting those sent in by foremen and forewomen).</p>
+
+<p>Suggestions should be written on or attached to the forms which will
+be found on each box, the boxes being fixed in the various
+departments, also in the entrance lodges, dining-rooms, and recreation
+grounds. Suggestions can be placed in any of these.</p>
+
+<p><!-- Page 108 --><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108"></a>It is imperative that all particulars at head of form, which will
+bear a distinctive number, should be carefully filled in. If this is
+not complied with no notice will be taken of suggestions. Forms may be
+taken from the book and filled up at home.</p>
+
+<p>All suggestions will be acknowledged by a notice posted on the boards
+once a week, giving a list of the printed numbers on the suggestion
+forms received for consideration.</p>
+
+<p>Should any number not appear in this list a communication should at
+once be sent to the Secretary.</p>
+
+<p>Those who have left the employ of the firm are entitled to prizes for
+any suggestions made whilst they were here, unless they should leave
+through misconduct.</p>
+
+<p>The suggestions are considered weekly by the committees with a member
+of the firm, and are dealt with in the order in which they are
+received. They are finally judged by the firm at the end of May and
+November, and prizes distributed before the summer holidays and at the
+Christmas gathering.</p>
+
+<p>Every effort is made by the committees to keep the names of the
+suggestors <i>strictly private</i>.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="APPENDIX_III" id="APPENDIX_III"></a><!-- Page 109 --><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109"></a>APPENDIX III.</h2>
+
+<h3>THE EARLY COCOA HOUSES.</h3>
+
+
+<p>At No. 64, St. James's Street is the "Cocoa Tree Club." In the reign
+of Queen Anne there was a famous chocolate-house known as the "Cocoa
+Tree," a favourite sign to mark that new and fashionable beverage. Its
+frequenters were Tories of the strictest school. De Foe tells us in
+his "Journey through England," that "a Whig will no more go to the
+'Cocoa Tree' ... than a Tory will be seen at the coffee-house of St.
+James's." In course of time the "Cocoa Tree" developed into a
+gaming-house and a club.</p>
+
+<p>As a club, the "Cocoa Tree" did not cease to keep up its reputation
+for high play. Although the present establishment bearing the name
+dates its existence only from the year 1853, the old chocolate-house
+was probably converted into a club as far back as the middle of the
+last century. Lord Byron was a member of this club, and so was Gibbon,
+the historian.</p>
+
+<p>&mdash;From "Old and New London," Cassell &amp; Co.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<div class="center"><!-- Page 110 --><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110"></a><i>NOTE.</i></div>
+
+<p><i>Reference in detail to the numerous authorities who have been laid
+under contribution for this brochure would be out of place in so
+popular a compilation, but the writer desires to express his special
+indebtedness to "Cocoa: All about It" by "Historicas," not only for
+facts, but also for some of his illustrations. To Messrs. Cadbury,
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+The Project Gutenberg eBook, The Food of the Gods, by Brandon Head
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: The Food of the Gods
+       A Popular Account of Cocoa
+
+
+Author: Brandon Head
+
+
+
+Release Date: June 10, 2005  [eBook #16035]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII)
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE FOOD OF THE GODS***
+
+
+E-text prepared by Clare Boothby, Karen Dalrymple, and the Project
+Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team (https://www.pgdp.net)
+
+
+
+Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this
+      file which includes the original illustrations.
+      See 16035-h.htm or 16035-h.zip:
+      (https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/6/0/3/16035/16035-h/16035-h.htm)
+      or
+      (https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/6/0/3/16035/16035-h.zip)
+
+
+
+
+
+THE FOOD OF THE GODS
+
+[Greek: _Theo Broma_]
+
+A Popular Account of Cocoa
+
+by
+
+BRANDON HEAD
+
+London: R. Brimley Johnson
+4, Adam Street, Adelphi, W.C.
+
+1903
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration--Colour Plate: EAST INDIAN COOLIES ON A TRINIDAD
+CACAO ESTATE]
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+CHAPTER                                                         PAGE
+
+I.   ITS NATURE                                                    1
+
+II.  ITS GROWTH AND CULTIVATION                                   25
+
+III. ITS MANUFACTURE                                              45
+
+IV.  ITS HISTORY                                                  71
+
+V.   ITS SOURCES AND VARIETIES                                    91
+
+     Appendices:
+
+       ANCIENT MANUFACTURE OF COCOA                              103
+
+       BOURNVILLE WORKS SUGGESTION SCHEME                        106
+
+       THE EARLY COCOA HOUSES                                    109
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS AND MAPS.
+
+
+                                                                PAGE
+EAST INDIAN COOLIES OF A TRINIDAD CACAO ESTATE
+  (COLOURED)                                      frontispiece
+
+CEYLON, A HILL CACAO ESTATE                             to face    1
+
+"MAKE A CUP OF COCOA IN PERFECTION" (see p. 19)                    1
+
+CACAO TREES, TRINIDAD                                   to face    3
+
+ANCIENT MEXICAN DRINKING CUPS                                      4
+
+"MOLINILLO," OR CHOCOLATE WHISK                                    5
+
+CACAO HARVEST, TRINIDAD                                 to face    7
+
+THE COCO-NUT PALM                                                  8
+
+COCO-DE-MER                                                        9
+
+LEAVES AND FLOWER OF THE CUCA SHRUB                               10
+
+GATHERING CACAO: SANTA CRUZ, TRINIDAD                  to face    11
+
+PURE DECORTICATED COCOA, MAGNIFIED                                12
+
+ADULTERATED COCOA, MAGNIFIED                                      13
+
+HOW THE CACAO GROWS                                    to face    17
+
+CACAO CROP, TRINIDAD                                      "       21
+
+ANALYTICAL APPARATUS                                              20
+
+CACAO PODS (COLOURED)                                  to face    25
+
+CACAO HARVESTING                                                  25
+
+CEYLON, NURSERY OF CACAO SEEDLINGS                     to face    27
+
+SAMOA: CACAO IN ITS FOURTH YEAR                           "       29
+
+YOUNG CACAO CULTIVATION WITH CATCH CROP                   "       30
+
+PODS OF CACAO THEOBROMA                                           31
+
+VARIETIES OF THE CACAO                                 to face    32
+
+THE HOME OF THE CACAO                                     "       35
+
+ORTINOLA, MARACAS, TRINIDAD                               "       36
+
+GOULET AND WOODEN SPOON                                           37
+
+CUTLASSES                                                         37
+
+CACAO DRYING IN THE SUN                                to face    39
+
+LABOURERS' COTTAGE, CACAO ESTATE                          "       40
+
+BASKETS OF CACAO ON PLANTAIN LEAVES                               41
+
+CACAO TREE AND SEEDLING (COLOURED)                     to face    43
+
+BOURNVILLE: "THE FACTORY IN A GARDEN"                     "       45
+
+    "       "ON ARRIVAL AT THE FACTORY"                           45
+
+    "       OFFICE BUILDINGS                           to face    47
+
+    "       CRICKET PAVILION                              "       49
+
+    "       GIRLS' DINING-HALL                            "       51
+
+    "       BOOT-SHELF ON STOOL                                   53
+
+    "       THE DINNER HOUR                            to face    54
+
+    "       LABURNAM ROAD                                 "       58
+
+    "       PACKING-ROOM                                  "       60
+
+    "       SUGGESTION BOX                                        62
+
+    "       LINDEN ROAD                                to face    63
+
+    "       FISHING POOL                                  "       64
+
+    "       ALMSHOUSES                                    "       67
+
+SECTION OF A COCOA FACTORY (COLOURED)                     "       69
+
+AMERICAN INDIAN WITH CHOCOLATE POT                                71
+
+NATIVE AMERICANS PREPARING COCOA                       to face    72
+
+A CACAO PLANTATION                                                75
+
+GRENADA: CACAO DRYING ON TRAYS                         to face    77
+
+MEXICAN DRINKING-VESSELS AND WHISK                                78
+
+CACAO TREE, TRINIDAD                                   to face    80
+
+MEXICAN COCOA WHISK                                               83
+
+WHITE'S COCOA HOUSE                                    to face    87
+
+CHART OF COCOA-PRODUCING COUNTRIES (COLOURED)          to face    91
+
+SACKS OF CACAO BEANS                                      "       91
+
+MARACAS VALLEY, TRINIDAD                                  "       92
+
+MAP OF TRINIDAD (COLOURED)                                "       95
+
+  "    GRENADA, BRITISH WEST INDIES                               96
+
+CACAO ESTATE, GRENADA                                  to face    96
+
+MAP OF PRINCIPE                                                   97
+
+  "    S. THOME                                                   98
+
+CEYLON: CARTING CACAO TO RAIL                          to face    99
+
+MAP OF CEYLON                                                     99
+
+  "    SAMOA                                                     100
+
+SAMOA, CLEARING FOR CACAO                              to face   100
+
+MEXICAN GRINDING-STONE                                           104
+
+
+[Illustration--Black & White Plate: Ceylon: A Hill Cacao Estate.]
+
+
+
+
+"THE FOOD OF THE GODS."
+
+
+
+
+I. ITS NATURE.
+
+
+[Illustration--Drawing: "MAKE A CUP OF COCOA IN PERFECTION"]
+
+When one thinks of the marvellously nourishing and stimulating virtue
+of cocoa, and of the exquisite and irresistible dainties prepared from
+it, one cannot wonder that the great Linnaeus should have named it
+_theo broma_, "the food of the gods." No other natural product, with
+the exception of milk, can be said to serve equally well as food or
+drink, or to possess nourishing and stimulating properties in such
+well-adjusted proportions. Few, however, realize that in its
+stimulating properties cocoa ranks ahead of coffee, though below tea.
+As a matter of fact, the active principles of all three are alkaloids,
+practically identical and equally effective.[1] Each derives its value
+from its influence on the nervous system, which it stimulates, while
+checking the waste of tissue, but the cocoa-bean provides in addition
+solid food to replace wasted tissue. It is, indeed, so closely allied
+in composition to pure dried milk, that in this respect there is
+little to choose between an absolutely pure cocoa essence and the
+natural fluid.[2] It is this which makes it invaluable as an
+alternative food for invalids or infants.
+
+[Illustration--Black and White Plate: Cacao Trees, Trinidad.]
+
+An early English writer on this valuable product spoke truly when he
+remarked: "All the American travellers have written such panegyricks,
+that I should degrade this royal liquor if I should offer any; yet
+several of these curious travellers and physicians do agree in this,
+that the cocoa has a wonderful faculty of quenching thirst, allaying
+hectick heats, of nourishing and fattening the body."
+
+A modern writer[3] affords the same testimony in a more practical form
+when he records that: "Cocoa is of domestic drinks the most
+alimentary; it is without any exception the cheapest food that we can
+conceive, as it may be literally termed meat and drink, and were our
+half-starved artisans and over-worked factory children induced to
+drink it, instead of the in-nutritious beverage called tea, its
+nutritive qualities would soon develop themselves in their improved
+looks and more robust condition."
+
+Such a drink well deserved the treatment it received at the hands of
+the Mexicans to whom we are indebted for it. At the royal banquets
+frothing chocolate was served in golden goblets with finely wrought
+golden or tortoise-shell spoons. The froth in this case was of the
+consistency of honey, so that when eaten cold it would gradually
+dissolve in the mouth. Here is a luscious suggestion for twentieth
+century housewives, handed to them from five hundred years ago!
+
+[Illustration--Drawing: ANCIENT MEXICAN DRINKING CUPS.
+(_British Museum._)]
+
+In health or sickness, infancy or age, at home or on our travels,
+nothing is so generally useful, so sustaining and invigorating. Far
+better than the majority of vaunted substitutes for human milk as an
+infant's food, to supplement what other milk may be available;
+incomparable as a family drink for breakfast or supper, when both tea
+and coffee are really out of place unless the latter is nearly all
+milk; prepared as chocolate to eat on journeys, and in many other
+ways, cocoa is a constant stand-by. Travelling in Eastern deserts on
+mule-back, the present writer has never been without a tin of cocoa
+essence if he could help it, as, whatever straits he might be put to
+for provisions, so long as he had this and water, refreshment was
+possible, and whenever milk was available he had command in his lonely
+tent of a luxury unsurpassed in Paris or London. For the sustenance of
+invalids he has found nothing better in the home-land than a nightly
+cup of cocoa essence boiled with milk.
+
+[Illustration--Drawing: MOLINILLO (LITTLE MILL) OR CHOCOLATE WHISK.]
+
+Add to these experiences a love for the flavour which dates from
+childhood, and his admiration for this "food of the gods" will be
+appreciated, even if not sympathized in, by the few who have escaped
+its spell. Its value in the eyes of practical as well as scientific
+men is sufficiently demonstrated by its increasing use in naval and
+military commissariats, in hospitals, and in public institutions of
+all classes. In the British Navy, which down to 1830 consumed more
+cocoa than the rest of the nation together, it is served out daily,
+and in the army twice or thrice a week. Brillat Savarin, the author of
+the "Physiologie du Gout," remarks: "The persons who habitually take
+chocolate are those who enjoy the most equable and constant health,
+and are least liable to a multitude of illnesses which spoil the
+enjoyment of life."
+
+[Illustration--Black and White Plate: A Cacao Harvest, Trinidad.]
+
+It certainly behoves us, therefore, to learn something more of such a
+valuable article than may be gleaned from the perusal of an
+advertisement, or the instructions on a packet containing it. There is
+something more than usually fascinating even in its history, in all
+the tales regarding this treasure-trove of the New World, and in the
+curious methods by which it has been treated. The story of its
+discovery takes us into the atmosphere of the Elizabethan period, and
+into the company of Cortes and Columbus; to learn of its cultivation
+and preparation we are transported to the glorious realms of the
+tropics, and to some of the most healthful centres of labour in the
+old country--in one case to the model village of the English Midlands.
+It is therefore an exceedingly pleasant round that lies before us in
+investigating this subject, as well as one which will afford much
+useful knowledge for every-day life.
+
+Before proceeding to a closer acquaintance with the origin of cocoa,
+it may be well to clear the ground of possible misconceptions which
+occasionally cause confusion.
+
+[Illustration--Drawing: THE COCO-NUT PALM.]
+
+First, there is the word "cocoa" itself, an unfortunate inversion of
+the name of the tree from which it is derived, the cacao.[4] A still
+more unfortunate corruption is that of "coco-nut" to "cocoa-nut,"
+which is altogether inexcusable. In this case it is therefore quite
+correct to drop the concluding "a," as the coco-nut has nothing
+whatever to do with cocoa or the cacao, being the fruit of a palm[5]
+in every way distinct from it, as will be seen from the accompanying
+illustration.
+
+[Illustration--Drawing: COCO-DE-MER.]
+
+The name "coco" is also applied to another quite distinct fruit, the
+_coco-de-mer_, or "sea-coco," somewhat resembling a coco-nut in its
+pod, but weighing about 28 lbs., and likewise growing on a lofty tree;
+its habitat is the Seychelles Islands. Sometimes also, confusion
+arises between the cacao and the coca or cuca,[6] a small shrub like
+a blackthorn, also widely cultivated in Central America, from the
+leaves of which the powerful narcotic cocaine is extracted.
+
+[Illustration--Drawing: LEAVES AND FLOWER OF THE CUCA SHRUB.]
+
+In the second place, the name "cocoa," which is strictly applicable
+only to the pure ground nib or its concentrated essence, is sometimes
+unjustifiably applied to preparations of cocoa with starch, alkali,
+sugar, etc., which it would be more correct to describe as "chocolate
+powder," chocolate being admittedly a confection of cocoa with other
+substances and flavourings.
+
+[Illustration--Black and White Plate: Gathering Cacao: Santa Cruz,
+Trinidad.]
+
+"Chocolate" is, therefore, a much wider term than "cocoa,"
+embracing both the food and the drink prepared from the cacao, and is
+the Mexican name, _chocolatl_, slightly modified, having nothing to do
+with the word cacao, in Mexican _cacauatl_.[7] In the New World it was
+compounded of cacao, maize, and flavourings to which the Spaniards, on
+discovering it, added sugar, cinnamon, vanilla, and other ingredients,
+such as musk and ambergris, cloves and nutmegs, almonds and
+pistachios, anise, and even red peppers or chillies. "Sometimes," says
+a treatise on "The Natural History of Chocolate," "China [quinine] and
+assa [foetida?]; and sometimes steel and rhubarb, may be added for
+young and green ladies."
+
+In our own times it is unfortunately common to add potato-starch,
+arrowroot, etc., to the cocoa, and yet to sell it by the name of the
+pure article. Such preparations thicken in the cup, and are preferred
+by some under the mistaken impression that this is a sign of its
+containing more nutriment instead of less. Although not so wholesome,
+there could be no objection to these additions so long as the
+preparations were not labelled "cocoa," and were sold at a lower
+price.
+
+[Illustration--Drawing: PURE DECORTICATED COCOA, HIGHLY MAGNIFIED.]
+
+Such adulteration is rendered possible by the presence in the bean of
+a large proportion of fatty matter or cocoa-butter, which renders it
+too rich for most digestions. To overcome this difficulty one or other
+of two methods is available: (1) Lowering the percentage of fat by the
+addition of starch, sugar, etc.; or (2) removing a large proportion of
+the fat by some extractive process; this latter method being in every
+respect preferable to that first mentioned.
+
+[Illustration--Drawing: COCOA ADULTERATED WITH ARROWROOT OR POTATO STARCH.]
+
+In order to avoid the expense and trouble consequent on the latter
+process, some manufacturers add alkali, by which means the free fatty
+acids are saponified, and the fat is held in a state of emulsion, thus
+giving the cocoa a false appearance of solubility.
+
+Another effect of the alkali is to impart to the beverage a much
+darker colour, from its action on the natural red colouring matter of
+the cocoa, this darkening being often taken, unfortunately, as
+indicative of increased strength. On this account the presence of
+added alkali should be regarded as an adulteration, unless notified on
+the package in which the cocoa is contained.
+
+A more subtle treatment with alkali for the same purpose is the
+addition to the pulverized bean of carbonate of ammonia, or caustic
+ammonia. This is afterwards volatilized by the application of heat.
+Scents and flavourings are then added to disguise their smell and
+taste.
+
+Besides these combinations of cocoa with starch, sugar, etc., and
+cocoa treated with alkali, there are now found on the market mixtures
+of cocoa with such substances as kola, malt, hops, etc., sold under
+strange-sounding names, reminding one of the many mixtures that are
+made up as medicines rather than food. While the substances thus
+incorporated are of value in their place, they possess no virtues
+which are absent from the pure cocoa, and cannot be in any way
+considered an improvement of cocoa as food. The sooner this practice
+of drug taking under cover of diet comes to an end the better it will
+be for the national health.
+
+Formerly Venetian red, umber, peroxide of iron, and even brick-dust,
+were employed to produce a cheaper article, but modern science and
+legislation combined have rendered such practices almost impossible.
+As early as the reign of George III. an Act[8] was passed, providing
+that, "if any article made to resemble cocoa shall be found in the
+possession of any dealer, under the name of 'American cocoa' or
+'English cocoa,' or any other name of cocoa, it shall be forfeited,
+and the dealer shall forfeit L100." Yet this Act was allowed to become
+so much a dead letter that in 1851 the _Lancet_ published the analysis
+of fifty-six preparations sold as "cocoa," of which only eight were
+free from adulteration. In some of the "soluble cocoas," the
+adulteration was as high as 65 per cent., potato starch in one case
+forming 50 per cent. of the sample. The majority of the samples were
+found to be coloured with mineral or earthy pigments, and specimens
+treated with red lead are on exhibition at South Kensington.
+
+The inclusion of the husk or shell in some of the cheaper forms of
+chocolate is another reprehensible practice (strongly condemned), as
+they do not possess the qualities for which the kernel or nib is so
+highly prized. To prevent this practice it was enacted in 1770 that
+the shells or husks should be seized or destroyed, and the officer
+seizing them rewarded up to 20s. per hundredweight. From these a
+light, but not unpalatable, table decoction is still prepared in
+Ireland and elsewhere, under the designation of "miserables."
+
+Among other beverages which have from time to time been produced from
+the cacao was a fermented drink much in vogue at the Mexican Court, to
+which it appears from the accounts of the conquest that Montezuma was
+addicted, as "after the hot dishes (300 in number) had been removed,
+every now and then was handed to him a golden pitcher filled with a
+kind of liquor made from cacao, which is very exciting." One variety,
+called _zaca_, drunk by the Itzas, consisted of cocoa mixed with a
+fermented liquor prepared from maize; but a more harmless invention
+was a drink composed of cocoa-butter and maize.
+
+[Illustration--Black and White Photgraph: How the Cacao Grows.
+(Showing Leaf, Flower, and Fruit.)]
+
+There remain three forms in which pure cocoa may be prepared as a
+beverage:
+
+1. _Cocoa-nibs._--The natural broken segments of the roasted
+cocoa-bean, after the shell has been removed, prepared for table as an
+infusion by prolonged simmering.
+
+It is strange that this ridiculous and wasteful means is still in use
+at all, as next to none of the valuable portions of the nib are
+extracted. The quantity of matter removed by the hot water is so
+small, that close upon 90 per cent, of the nourishing and feeding
+constituents are left behind in the undissolved sediment, the
+substances extracted being principally salts and colouring matters.
+One can but suppose that the long habit of drinking an infusion from
+coffee-beans and tea-leaves has fixed in the mind the erroneous idea
+that the substance of the cocoa-bean is also valueless. The fact
+remains, however, that it is still customary at some hydropathic
+establishments, and perhaps in a few other instances, for doctors to
+order "nibs" for their patient, which may sometimes be accounted for
+by injury having resulted from drinking one of the many "faked" cocoas
+offered for sale; the order for "nibs" being a despairing effort to
+obtain the genuine article.
+
+2. _Consolidated Nibs_--_i.e._, cocoa-nibs ground between heated
+stones, whence it flows in a paste of the consistency of cream, which,
+when cool, hardens into a cake containing all the cocoa-butter. Cocoa
+in this form (mixed with sugar before cooling) is served in the
+British Navy--a somewhat wasteful and inconvenient practice, as when
+stirred, the excess of fat at once floats to the top of the cup, and
+is generally removed with a spoon, to make the drink more appetising.
+
+3. _Cocoa Essence._--This is the same article as No. 2, with about 60
+per cent, of the natural butter removed; consequently the proportion
+of albuminous and stimulating elements is greatly increased. It is
+prepared instantly by pouring boiling water upon it, thus forming a
+light beverage with all the strength and flesh-forming constituents of
+the decorticated bean.[9]
+
+Chemical analysis of cacao-nibs and cocoa essence shows them to
+contain on an average:
+
+                                      Cacao-nibs.   Cocoa Essence.
+
+     Cocoa-butter                      50 parts.       30 parts.
+     Albuminoid substances             16   "          22   "
+     Carbohydrates (sugar, starch,
+       and digestible cellulose)       21   "          30   "
+     Theobromine                        1.5 "           2   "
+     Salts                              3.5 "           5   "
+     Other constituents                 8   "          11   "
+                                     ------          ------
+                                      100             100
+
+The _cocoa-butter_ when clarified is of a pale yellow colour, and as
+it melts at about 90 deg. F. it is of great value for pharmaceutical
+purposes, especially as it only becomes rancid when subjected to
+excessive heat and light, as to the direct rays of the sun.
+
+[Illustration--Drawing: ANALYTICAL APPARATUS.]
+
+The _albuminoid_ or _nitrogenous constituents_ will be seen to form
+about a sixth of the whole nib, or more than a fifth of the cocoa
+essence, and to their presence is due the fact that absolutely pure
+cocoa is such a remarkable flesh-former.
+
+[Illustration--Black and White Plate: Cacao Crop, Trinidad.]
+
+The _carbohydrates_, producing warmth and fat, are also important food
+substances, the proportion of which, while forming about a fifth of
+the whole bean, rises to close upon a third of the essence.
+
+Cocoa also contains a _volatile oil_, from which it derives its
+peculiar and delicious aroma.
+
+Thus _nearly nine-tenths of the cacao-bean may be assimilated by the
+digestive organs_, while three-fourths of tea and coffee are thrown
+away as waste. For the same bulk, therefore, cocoa is said to yield
+thirteen times the nutriment of tea, and four and a half times that of
+coffee. Its value as a substitute for mother's milk has already been
+alluded to, but may well be emphasized by a quotation from a paper
+read before the Surgical Society of Ireland in 1877 by one of its
+Fellows, Mr. Faussett:
+
+     "Without presuming to pass any judgment on the many artificial
+     substitutes which, on alleged chemical and scientific
+     principles, have from time to time been pressed forward under
+     the notice of the profession and the public to take the place
+     of mother's milk, I beg to call attention to a very cheap and
+     simple article which is easily procurable--viz., cocoa, and
+     which, _when pure and deprived of an excess of fatty matter_,
+     may safely be relied on, as cocoa in the natural state abounds
+     in a number of valuable nutritious principles, in fact, in
+     every material necessary for the growth, development, and
+     sustenance of the body."
+
+After giving some remarkable cases of children being restored from
+"the last stage of exhaustion" by its use, and "continued through the
+whole period of infancy," with the effect of their becoming fine,
+healthy children, he concluded by saying:
+
+     "I beg therefore respectfully to commend cocoa, as an article
+     of infant's food, to the notice of my professional brethren,
+     especially those who, holding office under the Poor Laws, have
+     such large and extensive opportunities of testing its value."
+
+As a beverage for mothers or nurses cocoa is recommended by Dr. Milner
+Fothergill, in his work on "The Food we Eat," in preference to
+porter, stout or ale, an opinion now becoming generally adopted. It
+may, therefore, be regarded as the indispensable, all-round nursery
+food, if not the constant stand-by of the family.
+
+That it is as nutritious for old as well as young we have an
+interesting proof in the fact that the first Englishman born in
+Jamaica, Colonel Montague James, who lived to the age of 104, took
+scarcely any food but cocoa and chocolate for the last thirty years of
+his life. For athletes and all who desire the development of the
+muscular tissues, its use is most beneficial. Professor Cavill, in his
+celebrated swim from Southampton to Portsmouth, and his nearly
+successful attempt to swim across the English Channel, considered it
+to be the most concentrated and sustaining food he could use for that
+trying test of endurance.
+
+In his "Treatise on Food and Dietetics," Dr. Pavy remarks that:
+
+     "Containing, as pure cocoa does, twice as much nitrogenous
+     matter, and twenty-five times as much fatty matter as wheaten
+     flour, with a notable quantity of starch, and an agreeable
+     aroma to tempt the palate, it cannot be otherwise than a
+     valuable alimentary material. It has been compared in this
+     respect to milk. It conveniently furnishes a large amount of
+     agreeable nourishment in a small bulk, and, taken with bread,
+     will suffice, in the absence of any other food, to furnish a
+     good repast."
+
+Indeed, the value of cocoa as food for ordinary mortals as well as for
+mythical beings cannot be better summed up than in the words of
+Professor Lankester, Superintendent of the Food Collections at South
+Kensington, who declares:
+
+     "It can hardly be regarded as a substitute for tea and coffee;
+     it is, in fact, a substitute for all other kinds of food, and
+     when taken with some form of bread, little or nothing else need
+     be added at a meal. The same may be said of chocolate."
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[1] According to Drs. Playfair and Lankester:
+
+     Tea contains  3     per cent. theine.
+     Coffee "      1 3/4    "      caffeine.
+     Cocoa  "      2        "      theobromine.
+
+Probably the proportion of caffeine in coffee would be more correctly
+stated as 1 1/4 per cent. Theine and caffeine are identical, but
+theobromine (C_{7}H_{8}N_{4}O_{2}) differs from both in the greater
+proportion of nitrogen which it contains.
+
+[2] Dr. Johnson's analysis:
+
+     Dried milk               35       \
+     Cocoa essence            34 3/4    \  Flesh formers in
+     Cocoa-nibs               23        /    each hundred parts.
+     Best French chocolates   11       /
+
+[3] Mr. O.L. Symonds, "Commercial Products of the Vegetable Kingdom."
+
+[4] The _Cacao theobroma_. There are several other varieties of cacao,
+but none of them produce the famous food.
+
+[5] The _Cocos nucifera_, or "nut-bearing coco."
+
+[6] _Erythroxylon coca._
+
+[7] Or, as otherwise written, _cacava quahuitl_.
+
+[8] 10 George III., c. 10.
+
+[9] To make cocoa in perfection, for three breakfast-cups: in a quart
+jug (with rounded bottom and narrower neck by preference) mix 1 1/2
+dessert spoonfuls (3/4 oz.) of Cocoa Essence with equal bulk of
+powdered white sugar, and stir to a thin paste with a little boiling
+water. Mix in an enamelled saucepan one breakfast-cup of milk with two
+cups of water (cups to be about 3/4 full), and boil with care. When on
+the boil, pour this over the contents of the jug, and whisk vigorously
+for a few seconds (see illustration, p. 1). Serve to table without
+delay. To make a richer drink, use equal parts of milk and water. To
+ensure the beverage being served as hot as possible, it is desirable
+to warm the jug before the cocoa is put into it. The effect of this
+method of preparation is to impart to the cocoa a more mellow taste,
+and to produce a deep froth on the surface, giving it a most
+appetizing appearance. The thorough mixing to which the cocoa is
+subjected also materially lessens the amount of sediment in the bottom
+of the cup.
+
+
+[Illustration--Colour Plate: CACAO PODS]
+
+
+
+
+II. ITS GROWTH AND CULTIVATION.
+
+
+
+[Illustration--Drawing: CACAO HARVESTING.]
+
+Cocoa is now grown in many parts of the tropics, reference to which is
+made in another chapter. The conditions, however, do not greatly vary,
+and there are probably many lands in the tropical belt where it is yet
+unknown that possess soil well suited to its extended cultivation.
+
+The cacao-tree grows wild in the forests of Central America, and
+varieties have been found also in Jamaica and other West Indian
+islands, and in South America. It does not thrive more than fifteen
+degrees north or south of the equator, and even within these limits it
+is not very successfully grown more than 600 feet above the sea-level;
+in many districts where sugar formerly monopolized the plains, it was
+supposed that cocoa needed an altitude of at least 200 feet, but
+experiments of planting on the old sugar estates and other low-lying
+places are generally successful where the soil is good, as in
+Trinidad, Cuba, and British Guiana. It has been found that the expense
+saved in roads, labour, and transit on the level has been very
+considerable in comparison with that incurred on some of the hill
+estates.
+
+In appearance the cacao-tree is not greatly unlike one of our own
+orchard trees, and trained by the pruning knife it grows similar in
+shape to a well-kept apple tree, no very low boughs being left, so
+that a man on horseback can generally pass freely down the long
+glades. Left to nature, it will in good soil reach a height of over
+twenty feet, and its branches will extend for ten feet from the
+centre.
+
+[Illustration--Black and White Plate: Ceylon: Nursery of Cacao
+Seedlings in Baskets of plaited Palm Leaf.]
+
+The best soil is that made by the decomposition of volcanic rock, so
+that it is a common sight to find areas strewn with large boulders
+turned into a cocoa plantation of great fertility; but the best trees
+of all lie along the _vegas_ which intersect the hills, where the soil
+is deep, and the stream winding among the trees supplies natural
+irrigation. The tree also grows well in loams and the richer marls,
+but will not thrive on clay and other heavy soils.
+
+The cacao is one of the tenderest of tropical growths, and will not
+flourish in any exposed position, for which reason large shade belts
+are left along exposed ridges and other parts of a hill estate, thus
+greatly reducing the total area under cultivation, in comparison with
+an estate of equal extent on the level plains, where no shade belts
+are necessary.
+
+The beans are planted either "at stake,"--when three beans are put in
+round each stake, the one thriving best after the first year being
+left to mature,--or "from nursery," whence, after a few months' growth
+in bamboo or palm-leaf baskets, they are transplanted into the
+clearing.
+
+The preparation of the land is the first and greatest expense; trees
+have to be felled, and bush cut down and spread over the land, so that
+the sun can quickly render it combustible. When all is clear, the
+cacao is put in among a "catch crop" of vegetables (the cassava,
+tania, pigeon-pea, and others), and frequently bananas, though, as
+taking more nutriment from the soil, they are sometimes objected to.
+But the seedling cacao needs a shade, and as it is some years before
+it comes into bearing, it is usual to plant the "catch crop" for the
+sake of a small return on the land, as well as to meet this need.
+
+In Trinidad, at the same time that the cacao[10] is planted at about
+twelve feet centres, large forest trees are also planted at from fifty
+to sixty feet centres, to provide permanent shade. The tree most used
+for this purpose is the _Bois Immortelle_ (_Erythrina umbrosa_); but
+others are also employed, and experiments are now being made on some
+estates to grow rubber as a shade tree. In recent clearings in Samoa,
+trees are left standing at intervals to serve this end.
+
+[Illustration--Black and White Plate: Samoa: Cacao in its fourth Year.]
+
+In Grenada, British West Indies, and some other districts, shade is
+entirely dispensed with, and the trees are planted at about eight feet
+centres, thus forming a denser foliage. By this means at least 500
+trees will be raised on an acre, against less than 300 in Trinidad,
+the result showing almost invariably a larger output from the Grenada
+estates. This practice is better suited to steep hillside plantations
+than to those in open valleys or on the plains.
+
+The cacao leaves, at first a tender yellowish-brown, ultimately turn
+to a bright green, and attain a considerable size, often fourteen to
+eighteen inches in length, sometimes even larger. The tree is subject
+to scale insects, which attack the leaf, also to grubs, which quickly
+rot the limbs and trunks, this last being at one time a very serious
+pest in Ceylon. If left to Nature the trees are quickly covered
+lichen, moss, "vines," ferns, and innumerable parasitic growths, and
+the cost of keeping an estate free from all the natural enemies which
+would suck the strength of the tree and lessen the crop is very great.
+
+[Illustration--Black and White Plate: Young Cultivation, with catch
+Crop of Bananas, Cassava, and Tania: Trinidad.]
+
+The cacao will bloom in its third year, but does not bear fruit till
+its fourth or fifth. The flower is small, out of all proportion to the
+size of the mature fruit. Little clusters of these tiny pink and
+yellow blossoms show in many places along the old wood of the tree,
+often from the upright trunk itself, and within a few inches of the
+ground; they are extremely delicate, and a planter will be satisfied
+if every third or fourth produces fruit. In dry weather or cold, or
+wind, the little pods only too quickly shrivel into black shells; but
+if the season be good they as quickly swell, till, in the course of
+three or four months, they develop into full grown pods from seven to
+twelve inches long. During the last month of ripening they are subject
+to the attack of a fresh group of enemies--squirrels, monkeys, rats,
+birds, deer, and others, some of them particularly annoying, as it is
+often found that when but a small hole has been made, and a bean or
+so extracted, the animal passes on to similarly attack another pod;
+such pods rot at once. Snakes generally abound in the cacao regions,
+and are never killed, being regarded as the planter's best friends,
+from their hostility to his animal foes. A boa will probably destroy
+more than the most zealous hunter's gun.
+
+[Illustration--Drawing: PODS OF CACAO THEOBROMA.]
+
+From its twelfth to its sixtieth year, or later, each tree will bear
+from fifty to a hundred and fifty pods, according to the season, each
+pod containing from thirty-six to forty-two beans. Eleven pods will
+produce about a pound of cured beans, and the average yield of a large
+estate will be, in some cases, four hundredweight per acre, in
+others, twice as much. The trees bear nearly all the year round, but
+only two harvests are gathered, the most abundant from November to
+January, known as the "Christmas crop," and a smaller picking about
+June, known as the "St. John's crop." The trees throw off their old
+leaves about the time of picking, or soon after; should the leaves
+change at any other time, the young flower and fruit will also
+probably wither.
+
+Of the many varieties of the cacao, the best known are the _criollo_,
+_forastero_, and _calabacilla_. The _criollo_ ("native") fruit is of
+average size, characterized by a "pinched" neck and a curving point.
+This is the best kind, though not the most productive; it is largely
+planted in Venezuela, Columbia and Ceylon, and produces a bean light
+in colour and delicate in flavour. The _forastero_ ("foreign") pod is
+long and regular in shape, deeply furrowed, and generally of a rough
+surface. The _calabacilla_ ("little calabash") is smooth and round,
+like the fruit after which it is named. All varieties are seen in
+bearing with red, yellow, purple, and sometimes green pods, the colour
+not being necessarily an indication of ripeness.
+
+[Illustration--Black and White Plate: Varieties of the Cacao.]
+
+On breaking open the pod, the beans are seen clinging in a cluster
+round a central fibre, the whole embedded in a white sticky pulp,
+through which the red skin of the cacao-bean shows a delicate pink.
+The pulp has the taste of acetic acid, refreshing in a hot climate,
+but soon dries if exposed to the sun and air. The pod or husk is of a
+porous, woody nature, from a quarter to half an inch thick, which,
+when thrown aside on warm moist soil, rots in a day or two.
+
+Much has been written of life on a cocoa estate; and all who have
+enjoyed the proverbial hospitality of a West Indian or Ceylon planter,
+highly praise the conditions of their life. The description of an
+estate in the northern hills of Trinidad will serve as an example. The
+other industry of this island is sugar, in cultivating which the
+coloured labourers work in the broiling sun, as near to the steaming
+lagoon as they may in safety venture. Later on in the season the long
+rows between the stifling canes have to be hoed; then, when the time
+of "crop" arrives, the huge mills in the _usine_ are set in motion,
+and for the longest possible hours of daylight the workers are in the
+field, loading mule-cart or light railway with massive canes. In the
+yard around the crushing-mills the shouting drivers bring their
+mule-teams to the mouth of the hopper, and the canes are bundled into
+the crushing rollers with lightning speed. The mills run on into the
+night, and the hours of sleep are only those demanded by stern
+necessity, until the crop is safely reaped and the last load of canes
+reduced to shredded _megass_ and dripping syrup.
+
+But upon the cocoa estate there is lasting peace. From the railway on
+the plain we climb the long valley, our strong-boned mule or lithe
+Spanish horse taking the long slopes at a pleasant amble, standing to
+cool in the ford of the river we cross and re-cross, or plucking the
+young shoots of the graceful bamboos so often fringing our path.
+Villages and straggling cottages, with palm thatch and _adobe_ walls,
+are passed, orange or bread-fruit shading the little garden, and
+perhaps a mango towering over all. The proprietor is still at work on
+the plantation, but his wife is preparing the evening meal, while the
+children, almost naked, play in the sunshine.
+
+[Illustration--Black and White Plate: The Home of the Cacao.
+(_One of Messrs. Cadburys' Estates, Maracas, Trinidad._)]
+
+The cacao-trees of neighbouring planters come right down to the ditch
+by the roadside, and beneath dense foliage, on the long rows of stems
+hang the bright glowing pods. Above all towers the _bois immortelle_,
+called by the Spaniards _la madre del cacao_, "the mother of the
+cacao." In January or February the _immortelle_ sheds its leaves and
+bursts into a crown of flame-coloured blossom. As we reach the
+shoulder of the hill, and look down on the cacao-filled hollow, with
+the _immortelle_ above all, it is a sea of golden glory, an
+indescribably beautiful scene. Now we note at the roadside a plant of
+dragon's blood, and if we peer among the trees there is another just
+within sight; this, therefore, is the boundary of two estates. At an
+opening in the trees a boy slides aside the long bamboos which form
+the gateway, and a short canter along a grass track brings us to the
+open savanna or pasture around the homestead.
+
+Here are grazing donkeys, mules, and cattle, while the chickens run
+under the shrubs for shelter, reminding one of home. The house is
+surrounded with crotons and other brilliant plants, beyond which is a
+rose garden, the special pride of the planter's wife. If the sun has
+gone down behind the western hills, the boys will come out and play
+cricket in the hour before sunset. These savannas are the beauty-spots
+of a country clothed in woodland from sea-shore to mountain-top.
+
+[Illustration--Black and White Plate: Ortinola, Maracas, Trinidad.]
+
+Next morning we are awaked by a blast from a conch-shell. It is 6.30,
+and the mist still clings in the valley; the sun will not be over the
+hills for another hour or more, so in the cool we join the labourers
+on the mule-track to the higher land, and for a mile or more follow a
+stream into the heart of the estate. If it is crop-time, the men will
+carry a _goulet_--a hand of steel, mounted on a long bamboo--by the
+sharp edges of which the pods are cut from the higher branches without
+injury to the tree. Men and women all carry cutlasses, the one
+instrument needful for all work on the estate, serving not only for
+reaping the lower pods, but for pruning and weeding, or "cutlassing,"
+as the process of clearing away the weed and brush is called.
+
+[Illustration--Drawing: GOULET AND WOODEN SPOON.]
+
+[Illustration--Drawing: CUTLASSES.]
+
+Gathering the pods is heavy work, always undertaken by men. The pods
+are collected from beneath the trees and taken to a convenient heap,
+if possible near to a running stream, where the workers can refill
+their drinking-cups for the mid-day meal. Here women sit, with trays
+formed of the broad banana leaves, on which the beans are placed as
+they extract them from the pod with wooden spoons. The result of the
+day's work, placed in panniers on donkey-back, is "crooked" down to
+the cocoa-house, and that night remains in box-like bins, with
+perforated sides and bottom, covered in with banana leaves. Every
+twenty-four hours these bins are emptied into others, so that the
+contents are thoroughly mixed, the process being continued for four
+days or more, according to circumstances.
+
+This is known as "sweating." Day by day the pulp becomes darker, as
+fermentation sets in, and the temperature is raised to about 140 deg. F.
+During fermentation a dark sour liquid runs away from the sweat-boxes,
+which is, in fact, a very dilute acetic acid, but of no commercial
+value. During the process of "sweating" the cotyledons of the
+cocoa-bean, which are at first a purple colour and very compact in the
+skin, lose their brightness for a duller brown, and expand the skin,
+giving the bean a fuller shape. When dry, a properly cured bean should
+crush between the finger and thumb.
+
+[Illustration--Black and White Plate: Cacao Drying in the Sun, Maracas,
+Trinidad.]
+
+Finally the beans are turned on to a tray to dry in the sun. They are
+still sticky, but of a brown, mahogany colour. Among them are pieces
+of fibre and other "trash," as well as small, undersized beans, or
+"balloons," as the nearly empty shell of an unformed bean is called.
+While a man shovels the beans into a heap, a group of women, with
+skirts kilted high, tread round the sides of the heap, separating the
+beans that still hold together. Then the beans are passed on to be
+spread in layers on trays in the full heat of the tropical sun, the
+temperature being upwards of 140 deg. F.[11] When thus spread, the women
+can readily pick out the foreign matter and undersized beans. Two or
+three days will suffice to dry them, after which they are put in bags
+for the markets of the world, and will keep with but very slight loss
+of weight or aroma for a year or more.
+
+Between crops the labourers are employed in "cutlassing," pruning,
+and cleaning the land and trees. Nearly all the work is in pleasant
+shade, and none of it harder than the duties of a market gardener in
+our own country; indeed, the work is less exacting, for daylight lasts
+at most but thirteen hours, limiting the time that a man can see in
+the forest: ten hours per day, with rests for meals, is the average
+time spent on the estate. Wages are paid once a month, and a whole
+holiday follows pay-day, when the stores in town are visited for
+needful supplies. Other holidays are not infrequent, and between crops
+the slacker days give ample time for the cultivation of private
+gardens.
+
+Labourers from India are largely imported by the Government under
+contract with the planters, and the strictest regulations are observed
+in the matter of housing, medical aid, etc. At the expiration of the
+term of contract (about six years) a free pass is granted to return to
+India, if desired. Many, however, prefer to remain in their adopted
+home, and become planters themselves, or continue to labour on the
+smaller estates, which are generally worked by free labour, as the
+preparations for contracted labour are expensive, and can only be
+undertaken on a large scale.
+
+[Illustration--Black and White Plate: Labourer's Cottage, Cacao Estate,
+Trinidad. (Bread Fruit and Bananas.)]
+
+The natives of India work on very friendly terms with the coloured
+people of the islands, the descendants of the old African slaves, and
+the cocoa estate provides a healthy life for all, with a home amid
+surroundings of the most congenial kind.[12]
+
+[Illustration--Drawing: BASKETS OF CACAO ON PLANTAIN LEAVES.]
+
+In other cocoa-growing countries processes vary somewhat. On the
+larger estates artificial drying is slowly superseding the natural
+method, for though the sun at its best is all that is needed, a
+showery day will seriously interfere with the process, even though the
+sliding roof is promptly pulled across to keep the rain from the
+trays.
+
+In Venezuela an old Spanish custom still prevails of sprinkling a fine
+red earth over the beans in the process of drying; this plan has
+little to recommend it, unless it be for the purpose of long storage
+in warehouses in the tropics, when the "claying" may protect the bean
+from mildew and preserve the aroma. In Ceylon it is usual to
+thoroughly wash the beans after the process of fermentation, thus
+removing all remains of the pulp, and rendering the shell more tender
+and brittle. Such beans arrive on the market in a more or less broken
+state, and it seems probable that they are more subject to
+contamination owing to the thinness of the shell. The best "estate"
+cocoa from Ceylon has a very bright, clear appearance, and commands a
+high price on the London market; this cocoa is of the pure _criollo_
+strain, light brown (pale burnt sienna) in colour.
+
+[Illustration--Colour Plate: CACAO TREE AND SEEDLING]
+
+The valleys of Trinidad and Grenada have grown cocoa for upwards of a
+hundred years, but up to the present time very little in the way of
+manuring has been done beyond the natural vegetable deposits of the
+forest. In many estates of recent years cattle have been quartered in
+temporary pens on the hills, moving on month by month, with a large
+central pen for the stock down on the savanna.
+
+The cocoa-beans are shipped to Europe in bags containing from one to
+one and a half hundredweight, and are disposed of by the London
+brokers nearly every Tuesday in the year at a special sale in the
+Commercial Sale Room in Mincing Lane.
+
+The cacao-tree has sometimes been grown from seed in hot-houses in
+this country, but always with difficulty, for not only must a mean
+temperature of at least 80 deg. F. be maintained, but the tree must be
+shielded from all draught. Among the most successful are the trees
+grown by Mr. James Epps, Jun., of Norwood, by whose kind permission
+the accompanying sketches from life were made. Success has only
+crowned his efforts after many years of patient care. To grow a mere
+plant was comparatively simple, but to produce even a flower needed
+long tending, and involved much disappointment; while to secure
+fruition by cross-fertilization was a still more difficult task,
+accomplished in England probably on only one other occasion.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[10] For full information on the subject of planting, see Simmond's
+"Tropical Agriculture" (Spon, London and New York); Nicholl's
+"Tropical Agriculture" (Macmillan).
+
+[11] See plate facing p. 77.
+
+[12] See _frontispiece_.
+
+
+
+
+III. ITS MANUFACTURE.
+
+
+[Illustration--Black and White Plate: Bournville: "The Factory in
+a Garden."]
+
+[Illustration--Drawing: "ON ARRIVAL AT THE FACTORY".]
+
+Up to this point the operations described have taken place in the
+lands where cacao is produced. To watch the further processes in its
+development as an article of food, let us in imagination follow one of
+the shiploads of cacao on its sea journey from the far tropics to one
+of the countries of the old world, until the sacks of beans are
+finally deposited at a cocoa factory. An English factory, that of
+Messrs. Cadbury, at Bournville, affords an excellent illustration of
+its manufacture, not only because about a third of all the beans
+imported into this country are treated there, but also because this
+treatment is effected amid ideal surroundings. Half a century ago
+Messrs. Cadbury Brothers employed but a dozen or twenty hands, and
+until within the last twenty-six years the firm was established in the
+town of Birmingham. The need for greater accommodation for the rapidly
+growing business, and a desire to secure improved conditions for the
+work-people, led to the removal of the factory to a distance of about
+four miles south of the city. A number of cottages erected for the
+work-people in those early days became the nucleus of a great scheme
+which in the last few years has expanded into the model village of
+Bournville, a name taken from the neighbouring Bourn stream. Year by
+year the factory grew and developed, until the green hay-fields, with
+the trout stream flowing through them, became gradually covered with
+buildings. To-day the factory seems like a small town in itself,
+intersected by streets, and surrounded by its own railway. But the
+greenness of the country clings wherever a chance is afforded, ivy and
+other creepers adorning the brick walls, window boxes bright with
+flowers, and trees planted here and there; for no opportunity has been
+neglected of making the surroundings beautiful.
+
+[Illustration--Black and White Plate: Bournville Cocoa Works: Office
+Buildings.]
+
+Taking train from the city, glimpses can be caught, as we near our
+destination, of the pretty houses and gardens of the village, forming
+a great contrast to the densely populated district of Stirchley on the
+other side of the line. Stepping on to the station, we are greeted by
+a whiff of the most delicious fragrance, which is quite enough of
+itself to betray the whereabouts of the great factory lying beneath
+us, of which from this point we have a fairly good bird's-eye view.
+Down the station steps, and a few yards up the lane to the left, with
+a playing field on one side, and on the other a plantation of
+fir-trees almost hiding the red brick and timbered gables of the
+office buildings, and we have arrived at the factory lodge. Looking
+through the open door down a vista of archways bowered in clematis
+and climbing roses, with an alpine rock garden at each side of the
+broad walk, we might almost imagine ourselves to be at the entrance to
+some botanical gardens. But a glance at the thousands of check hooks
+covering the inner wall of the lodge informs us that more than 2,400
+girls pass in and out every day. The men's lodge is at a separate
+gate.
+
+Before entering the works, a few steps further along the road will
+give us some idea of the many advantages gained by moving the factory
+out into the country. Just opposite the lodge a sloping path leads to
+the cycle-house, where some 200 machines are stored during work hours.
+Beyond this, in the middle of a flower garden, stands the Estate
+Office of the Bournville Village Trust, and in the background higher
+up a girls' pavilion can be seen through the trees. Behind it stretch
+asphalt tennis-courts and playing-fields, bordered by a belt of fine
+old trees, under whose shade wind pretty shrubbery walks lined with
+rustic seats. A passage under the road leads straight from the
+works into these beautiful grounds, and on a summer's day few prettier
+sights could be found than the numbers of white-robed girls who stream
+across in the dinner-hour to revel in the sunshine of the open fields,
+or sit in groups beneath the shady trees, enjoying a picnic lunch. A
+little further along the road the trees and the rhododendron bushes
+sweep backwards, leaving an open space, where a smooth lawn reaches to
+the front of a fine old mansion, for many years used as a home for
+some fifty of the work-girls whose own homes are at a distance, or who
+have no home at all. The fruit gardens and vineries belonging to
+"Bournville Hall" are used for the benefit of work-people who are ill.
+
+[Illustration--Black and White Plate: Coronation Cricket Pavilion,
+Bournville.]
+
+Turning back again, we find on the other side of the road a
+magnificent pavilion, the Coronation gift of the firm to their
+employees, which overlooks the broad level stretch of one of the
+finest cricket grounds in the Midlands. Away in the hollow beyond, the
+Bourn forms a picturesque, shady pool, part of which is used to make a
+capital open-air swimming bath for the men. In the rising background
+are the pretty houses and the gardens of the model village. Still
+retracing our steps, we now come to the original cottages built by the
+firm. Plainer and less picturesque than those of more modern
+construction, their air of comfort, and the creepers which cover many
+of their walls, make them harmonize well with their surroundings. One
+of them is now used as a youths' club, providing games, a circulating
+library, and reading and lecture rooms. Another contains club rooms
+for the office staff. In passing we catch sight of a fine swimming
+bath for the girls.
+
+Through the lodge and under the clematis, a few steps bring us to the
+private railway-station, which in size would do credit to many a town.
+Here trucks are loaded with finished goods and despatched to their
+various destinations. Every working day of the year a long train,
+extending often in the busiest season to as many as forty truck-loads,
+steams out of this station to scatter the productions of Bournville
+over the face of the Earth. Close by the station we turn into the
+offices, where the fittings and general arrangement convey an air of
+refined solidity according well with the goods produced.
+
+[Illustration--Black and White Plate: Girls' Dining Hall, Bournville.]
+
+Before proceeding to study the manufacture of cocoa essence and
+chocolate from the bean as it is imported, it will be interesting to
+see the careful provision that is made for the health and cleanliness
+of the workers, for in connection with any food nothing is of greater
+importance than the circumstances attending its preparation. A
+gratuitous sick club is provided by the firm for the employees,
+including the services of a doctor and three trained nurses. A special
+retiring room, comfortably furnished, is provided for girls needing a
+quiet hour's rest.
+
+We are taken into the girls' dining-hall, capable of seating over two
+thousand at a time, fitted with benches, the backs of which are
+convertible into table tops. The far end of the dining-hall leads into
+the huge kitchen, to which the girls can bring their own dinners to be
+cooked, or where they can buy a large variety of things at
+coffee-house prices. Here again the health of the workers is carefully
+studied. Fruit is made a speciality, an experienced buyer being
+employed to insure its better supply. A private dining-room is
+provided for the forewomen.
+
+Returning to the dining-hall, we descend a flight of steps into the
+spacious dressing-rooms, with vistas of wooden screens, filled on each
+side with numbered hooks. Here every morning the thousands of girls
+not only divest themselves of their outer garments, but change their
+dresses for washing frocks of white holland. The material for these is
+provided by the firm, free for the first, and afterwards at less than
+cost price, and the girls are required to start work in a clean frock
+every Monday morning. It will be seen at once how this helps them to
+keep neat and respectable; their strong white washing frocks only
+being soiled by their work, after which they change back into their
+own unstained clothes, and turn out looking as great a contrast to the
+usually pictured type of factory girl as can be imagined. The
+forewomen also conform to this arrangement, but wear washing dresses
+of blue cotton to distinguish them from the girls. Round the walls of
+this vast dressing-room hot-water pipes are placed, and over these are
+shelves where on a rainy day wet boots can be deposited to dry.
+Specially thoughtful is the provision of rubber snow-shoes, imported
+from America for their use, and supplied under cost price. Beneath
+each stool, too, is a shelf for heavy boots, which can be replaced in
+the factory by slippers.
+
+[Illustration--Drawing: BOOT-SHELF ON STOOL.]
+
+Mention has already been made of the provision for illness or
+accidents, and of the care shown in the many arrangements for
+maintaining and improving the health and physical development of the
+girls. Further evidence of this is found in the airy and well-lighted
+work-rooms, from which funnels and exhaust fans collect and carry off
+all dust, and improve the ventilation, so that in spite of the
+multitudinous operations in progress, the whole place is kept as
+"spick and span" as a ship of the line. But another aggressive sign of
+the firm's belief in the motto _mens sana in corpore sano_ is the
+presence of a lady whose whole time is devoted to the physical culture
+of the girls. Trained in Swedish athletics, this lady and her
+assistant undertake the teaching, not only of gymnastics, but of
+swimming and numerous games. Every day drill classes are held, an
+opportunity being thus provided for all the younger girls to attend a
+half-hour's lesson twice a week.
+
+The result of all this thoughtful care is abundantly evident in the
+general air of health and comfort which pervades the whole factory,
+and in the bright faces which greet us at every turn, as we pass to
+and fro among the busy workers in this monster hive.
+
+[Illustration--Black and White Plate: The Dinner Hour, Bournville.]
+
+Entering now, and turning into the private station, we see thousands
+of sacks of the freshly-imported beans being transferred to the
+neighbouring stores. The new arrivals must first be sifted and picked
+over to get rid of any that may be unsound, or of any foreign material
+still remaining. This is accomplished by a sorting and winnowing
+machine, which delivers by separate shoots the cleaned beans, graded
+according to size, and the dust and foreign matter.
+
+A battery of roasters await the survivors of this operation, which are
+automatically conveyed to the hoppers. High-pressure steam supplies
+the requisite heat without waste or smoke, and as the huge drums
+slowly rotate, experienced workmen, on whose judgment great reliance
+is placed, carefully watch their contents, and decide when precisely
+the right degree of roasting has been attained to secure the richest
+aroma. Then they are passed through a cooling chamber, after which
+they are in condition for "breaking down."
+
+This consists in cracking the shells of the beans, and releasing the
+kernels or "nibs," from which the shells and dust are winnowed by a
+powerful blast. It is accomplished by carrying the beans mechanically
+to the cracking machine at a considerable height, whence husks and
+nibs are allowed to fall before the winnower: the separated nibs are
+assorted according to size. Some of the shells find their way to the
+Emerald Isle, to be used by the peasants for the weak infusion called
+"miserables."
+
+Now comes the important process of grinding, performed between
+horizontal mill-stones, the friction of which produces heat and melts
+the "butter," while it grinds the "nibs" till the whole mass flows,
+solidifying into a brittle cake when cold.
+
+The thick fluid of the consistency of treacle flowing from the
+grinding-mills is poured into round metal pots, the top and bottom of
+which are lined with pads of felt, and these are, when filled, put
+under a powerful hydraulic press, which extracts a large percentage of
+the natural oil or butter. The pressure is at first light, but as soon
+as the oil begins to flow the remaining mass in the press-pot is
+stiffened into the nature of indiarubber, and upon this it is safe to
+place any pressure that is desired. As it is not advisable to extract
+all the butter possible, the pressure is regulated to give the
+required result. In the end a firm, dry cake is taken from the press,
+and when cool is ground again to the consistency of flour; this is the
+"cocoa essence" for which the firm of Cadbury is so well known in all
+parts of the world.[13]
+
+Between cocoa and chocolate there are essential differences. Both are
+made from the cocoa nib, but whereas in cocoa the nibs are ground
+separately, and the butter extracted, in chocolate sugar and
+flavourings are added to the nib, and all are ground together into a
+paste, the sugar absorbing all the superfluous butter. If good quality
+cocoa is used, the butter contained in the nib is all that is needful
+to incorporate sugar and nib into one soft chocolate paste for
+grinding and moulding, but in the commoner chocolates extra cocoa
+butter has to be added. It is a regrettable fact that some
+unprincipled makers are tempted to use cheaper vegetable fats as
+substitutes for the natural butter, but none of these are really
+palatable or satisfactory in use, and none of the leading British
+firms are guilty of using such adulterants, or of the still more
+objectionable practice of grinding cocoa-shells and mixing them with
+their common chocolates.[14]
+
+Flavouring is introduced according to the object in view; vanilla is
+largely employed in this country, though in France and Spain cinnamon
+is used, and elsewhere various spices. Willoughby, in his "Travels in
+Spain" (1664), writes:
+
+     "To every three and a half pounds of powder they add two pounds
+     of sugar, twelve Vanillos, a little Guiny pepper (which is used
+     by the Spaniards only), and a little Achiote[15] to give a
+     colour. They melt the sugar, and then mingle all together, and
+     work it up either in rolls or leaves."
+
+     Another writer says: "The usual proportion at Madrid to a
+     hundred kernels of cocoa is to add two grains of Chile pepper,
+     a handful of anise, as many flowers--called by the natives
+     vinacaxtlides, or little ears--six white roses in powder, a pod
+     of campeche,[16] two drachms of cinnamon, a dozen almonds and
+     as many hazel-nuts, with achiote enough to give it a reddish
+     tincture; the sugar and vanilla are mixed at discretion, as
+     also the musk and ambergris. They frequently work this paste
+     with orange water, which they think gives it a greater
+     consistence and firmness."
+
+[Illustration--Black and White Plate: Bournville Village: Laburnum Road.]
+
+When the chocolate is sufficiently ground it is put into a stove to
+attain the correct temperature, and is then passed on to a
+moulding-table, where it is pressed into tin moulds, and shaken till
+it settles. After passing through a refrigerating chamber, the
+contents of these moulds are ready as cakes of hard chocolate for
+putting up in the well-known blue "Mexican," or the dark-red "Milk,"
+packets.
+
+It would, of course, be interesting to proceed to an inspection of the
+many processes involved in making all the dainties that are prepared
+with chocolate, and of the numerous trades concerned in the production
+of packages, boxes, and fancy cases, did space permit. Room after room
+might be visited, bright in the daylight, or equally well lighted by
+electricity at night, humming with busy machines; some peopled with
+girls--among whom only men wearing a certain badge on their arms are
+allowed--some with men and boys, but all vibrating with a genial air
+of content as well as of busy occupation. Suffice it to say that half
+the handicrafts of the town seem represented in this centre of
+industry, in every department of which order and cheerfulness reign
+supreme. Each would require a chapter to do it justice, for everything
+employed in packing seems to be made on the premises, and that, too,
+on a system of piece-work paid for, not at the lowest possible price,
+but on the basis of securing a satisfactory living wage to the average
+worker. No wonder the faces around are bright, no wonder that openings
+at the Bournville factory are in demand, and that long service for the
+firm is the boast of so many of the employees. Among these, a little
+band of about thirty still upholds the traditions of the old firm that
+laid the foundations of the present company in the city of Birmingham.
+
+[Illustration--Black and White Plate: Packing Room, Bournville.]
+
+The work hours are forty-eight each week, and the wages depend both
+on age and length of service, no man of twenty-three years of age and
+over twelve months' service receiving less than 24s. weekly. There are
+no deductions for sick club or fines, the sick fund, as before stated,
+being a free gift from the company. Offences and late time are entered
+in a record book, and an opportunity is given to wipe off all past
+records by two years' good service. The Athletic Club, with over 500
+voluntary subscribers, runs three cricket, four football, and two
+hockey teams, besides bowling, tennis, swimming, and other sports. One
+of the most interesting events of the Cricket Club is the annual match
+with a team representing Messrs. Fry and Sons, of Bristol, the oldest
+established cocoa firm in this country. In friendly opposition to the
+"Bournville Club" are the teams drawn from the "Youths' Club," and
+other outside organizations. A summer camp of over a hundred boys has
+been successfully held at the seaside for some years past.
+
+[Illustration--Drawing: SUGGESTION BOX.]
+
+The recent introduction of the system of suggestion-boxes throughout
+the works has been a great success. All employees are invited to make
+suggestions, which are dealt with each week by two committees, one for
+the men and one for the girls. Prizes amounting to about L80 are
+offered every half-year for the best suggestions. During the first
+seven months of operation over 1,000 suggestions were received, a very
+large percentage of which were found sufficiently useful to be
+adopted. The result has been to draw all sections closer together,
+as each feels sure of getting due credit for original ideas. Many
+important alterations in organization and methods of working have been
+carried into effect, entirely owing to this scheme.[17]
+
+[Illustration--Black and White Plate: Bournville Village: Linden Road.]
+
+In order to encourage thrift (at the same time insuring privacy), a
+Savings Fund on a novel system has been working successfully for
+several years at Bournville. The fund was opened in Jubilee year by
+gifts of L1 to each employee who had been three years in the service
+of the firm, and 10s. to those employed for a shorter time. Deposits
+are received, and amounts withdrawn in the usual way during the year,
+through collectors in each department, the depositors' cards being
+called in quarterly for audit. At the end of each financial year, in
+May, interest at the rate of four per cent. is added to the amount
+standing to the credit of each depositor, and the whole amount paid
+over to the Post Office Savings Bank. At this time also, Post Office
+officials attend at the works, and enter the amounts to the credit of
+each depositor, issuing new Post Office Savings books where necessary.
+This system secures absolute privacy for the permanent savings, and
+places the fund upon a secure basis. As some evidence that the scheme
+is appreciated, it may be stated that the total balance transferred to
+the Post Office Savings Bank has averaged over L3,200 per annum.
+
+While in the district of Bournville, the opportunity must not be lost
+of becoming more closely acquainted with the village around the works.
+Away beyond the factory stretches an estate of nearly 500 acres, set
+apart for the purpose of "alleviating the evils which arise from the
+insanitary and insufficient accommodation supplied to large numbers of
+the working classes, and of securing to workers in factories some of
+the advantages of outdoor village life, with opportunities for the
+natural and healthful occupation of cultivating the soil." As yet only
+some 450 houses have been erected, pretty, picturesque cottages all of
+them, for the most part semi-detached, each on its sixth of an acre,
+more or less, housing in all a population of about 2,000.
+
+[Illustration--Black and White Plate: Fishing Pool, Bournville.]
+
+It was compassion for the ill-housed work-people of Birmingham that
+led Mr. George Cadbury, the founder of the village, to undertake so
+splendid a task, and having accomplished it, he crowned it by making a
+gift of the whole to the nation, placing its administration in the
+hands of a Trust. In doing so he laid down ideal stipulations for its
+development, and for the regulation of the villages which may in the
+future be built out of the income of the Trust. The principal of these
+are that factories or workshops shall never occupy more than one
+fifteenth of the area; that no house shall occupy more than one-fourth
+of the ground allotted to it; that in addition to wide roads and the
+ample gardens thus secured, one-tenth of the area shall be reserved
+for public open spaces for ever, parts of which are to be used as
+children's playgrounds. At present no intoxicants are sold or prepared
+on the estate, and if ever the trustees should see fit to permit this,
+it is to be as a co-operative undertaking, the profits of which shall
+"be devoted to securing for the village community recreation and
+counter-attraction to the liquor trade as ordinarily conducted."
+
+Such a scheme affords a model for public bodies tackling the housing
+problem in earnest, and is fraught with great hopes for the future.
+The annual income, nearly L6,000, is to be applied first to the
+development of this estate, and subsequently to the purchase of
+estates near Birmingham or other large towns, and the establishment of
+new villages thereon. A most important feature is, that although the
+rents are calculated to yield a fair return on the cost, including a
+proportion of development expenses, they are so low that a five-roomed
+cottage with bath and every convenience can be had for the rent of a
+two-roomed hovel in the slums. About two-fifths of the householders
+find employment in the cocoa works, the rest in the adjoining villages
+or in Birmingham.
+
+[Illustration--Black and White Plate: Almshouse Quadrangle, Bournville.]
+
+The gardens are a special feature, and before the houses are let, they
+are laid out by the Trust, and planted with fruit trees. All are well
+worked, and an average yield in vegetables and fruit of nearly two
+shillings a week has been found possible, equivalent to something like
+L60 an acre--more than twelve times as much food as would be produced
+if under pasturage. Two professional gardeners, with several men under
+them, are employed to look after the gardening department, and they
+are always ready to give any information or advice required by the
+tenants, so that the cottage gardens may be cultivated to the utmost
+profit. At present the public buildings consist of a village inn and
+baths; a school is shortly to be erected. Building is being steadily
+proceeded with, and although the development of the estate may be
+somewhat slow at first, it will advance with growing rapidity as the
+revenue increases. No wonder that there is an omnipresent air of
+comfort and prosperity, or that the death-rate is only about eight per
+thousand, in comparison with nineteen in the neighbouring city.
+
+No description of Bournville would be complete without a mention of
+its picturesque alms-houses. Here a haven of rest is provided for
+some of those who, in their best years, have rendered faithful service
+to the firm. Thirty-three independent houses, brick and stone built,
+each with its own doorway to the quiet greensward, and its windows to
+the sun, form an inviting, reposeful quadrangle. They were the last
+gift of a life devoted to the interests of others, and the happiness
+and peace which characterize them are fitting memorials of the late
+Richard Cadbury, the elder of the two brothers who founded this great
+industry, and who have in their lives been favoured to see such untold
+blessing upon their labours.
+
+
+[Illustration--Colour Plate: Section of a Chocolate Factory.]
+
+SECTION OF A CHOCOLATE FACTORY.
+
+     The accompanying diagram of a chocolate factory is reproduced
+     by kind permission of the Berlin publishers of Dr. Paul
+     Zipperer's well-known work on "The Manufacture of Chocolate,"
+     which contains much valuable information. The machinery
+     described is that of Messrs. Lehmann, of Dresden, one of the
+     largest makers on the Continent.
+
+By means of the lift (1) all the raw materials, sugar, cocoa, packing,
+etc., are carried up to the store-rooms (2). Here are the machines for
+cleansing and picking the raw cocoa-beans, which are fed into the
+elevator boxes (3) above the cleansing machine (4), which frees them
+from dust; they then pass to the continuous band (5) on which they are
+picked over, and from which they fall into movable boxes (6). They are
+thence transferred to the hoppers (7), and fed by opening a slide in
+the hopper, into the roasting machine (8). The quantity contained in
+the hoppers is sufficient to charge the roasting machine. When the
+roasting is completed the cocoa is emptied into trucks (9), and
+carried to the exhaust arrangement (10), where the beans are cooled
+down, the vapour given off passing out into the open air. At the same
+time the air of the roasting chamber is sucked out through the
+funnel-shaped tube fitted to the cover. The roasted cocoa is then
+passed to boxes (11), to be conveyed by the elevator to the crushing
+and cleansing machine (12). After being cleansed, the cocoa is carried
+in trucks (13) to hoppers (14) by which it is fed into the mills (15)
+on the lower floor. The sugar mill and sifting apparatus (26) placed
+near the crushing and cleansing machines are also fed by a hopper from
+above. Cocoa and sugar are now supplied to the mixing machine (16), to
+be worked together before passing to the rolls (17) by which the final
+grinding is effected. After passing once or more through the mill, the
+finished chocolate mass is taken to the hot-room (18), where it
+remains in boxes until further treated, after which it is taken to the
+moulding-room. In the mixer (19) the mass acquires the consistency and
+temperature requisite for moulding. The mass is then taken in lumps to
+the dividing machine (20), and cut into pieces of the desired size and
+weight. On the table (21) the moulds, lying upon boards, are filled
+with chocolate and then taken to the shaking-table (22). By means of a
+double lift (23) the moulded chocolate, still lying upon boards, is
+conveyed to the cooling-room or cellar, in which there are benches or
+frames (24) for receiving the moulds as they are slipped off the
+boards. The cellar has to be cooled artificially, according to
+situation. Adjoining the cellar is the wrapping-room (25), and further
+on the warehouse. The goods so far finished are then taken by the lift
+(1) to the rooms where they are packed for delivery.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[13] For ancient processes see Appendix I., p. 103.
+
+[14] "Chocolate is an article so disguised in the manufacture that it
+is impossible to tell its purity or value. The only safeguard is to
+buy that which bears the name of a reputable maker."--Chambers,
+"Manual of Diet."
+
+[15] The heart-leaved bixa, or anotta.
+
+[16] Log-wood.
+
+[17] The regulations adopted are so interesting that a place has been
+found for them in an Appendix (p. 106).
+
+
+
+
+IV. ITS HISTORY.
+
+[Illustration--Drawing: [_From Dufour._]
+OLD DRAWING OF AN AMERICAN INDIAN, WITH CHOCOLATE-POT AND WHISK.]
+
+Although now cultivated in many other tropical countries, the cacao
+tree is one of the New World's rich gifts, first made known to our
+ancestors by the venturesome Spaniards, who probably became acquainted
+with its cultivation early in the sixteenth century, and spread the
+knowledge derived from the Mexicans and the inhabitants of Central
+America to their other colonies. They found cacao a more veritable
+mine of wealth than even the gold of which they procured such store.
+It is indeed a curious coincidence that in those countries of gold the
+cacao-beans were not only the form in which tribute was paid, but
+themselves passed as currency. On account of their use for this
+purpose by the Mexicans, Peter Martyr styled them _amygdalae
+pecuniariae_--"pecuniary almonds"--exclaiming: "Blessed money, which
+exempts its possessors from avarice, since it cannot be hoarded or
+hidden underground!"
+
+Joseph Acosta tells us that "the Indians used no gold nor silver to
+trafficke in or buy withall ... and unto this day (1604) the custom
+continues amongst the Indians, as in the province of Mexico, instede
+of money they use cacao." The Aztecs also made use of cacao in this
+way, as many as 8,000 beans being legal tender--rather a task, one
+would imagine, for the money-changers.
+
+[Illustration--Black and White Plate: Native Americans Preparing
+and Cooking Cocoa. _Ogibe's "America," 1671._]
+
+In Nicaragua this practice was so general that "none but the rich and
+noble could afford to drink it, as it was literally drinking money."
+A rabbit sold there for ten beans, "a tolerably good slave" for a
+hundred. Slaves must, however, have been at a discount just then, if
+the silver value of the beans was no greater than when Thomas Candish
+wrote in 1586: "These cacaos serve amongst them both for meat and
+money ... 150 of them being as good as a Real of Plate"--about 6d. "A
+bag," of unknown size, "was worth ten crowns." One of the storehouses
+of Montezuma, the last of the old independent Mexican Chieftains,[18]
+was found by the Spaniards to contain as much as 40,000 loads of this
+precious commodity, in wicker baskets which six men could not grasp.
+
+John Ogilby, writing in 1671 of the produce of America, says:
+
+     "But much more beneficial is the cacao, with which Fruit New
+     Spain drives a great Trade; nay, serves for Coin'd Money. When
+     they deliver a Parcel of Cacao, they tell them by five, thirty,
+     and a hundred. Their Charity to the Poor never exceeds above
+     one Cacao-nut. The chief Reason for which this Fruit is so
+     highly esteem'd, is for the Chocolate, which is made of the
+     same, without which the Inhabitants (being so us'd to it) are
+     not able to live. Before the Spaniards made themselves Masters
+     of Mexico, no other Drink was esteem'd but that of the Cacao;
+     none caring for Wine, notwithstanding the Soil produces Vines
+     everywhere in great Abundance of itself."
+
+From contemporary travellers' records are to be gleaned many such
+strange facts and stranger fancies regarding the precious bean and its
+products, some of them extremely quaint and curious. Bancroft, for
+instance, writing of the Maya races of the Pacific, tells us that
+"before planting the seed they held a festival in honour of their
+gods, Ekchuah, Chac, and Hobnil, who were their patron deities. To
+solemnize it, they all went to the plantation of one of their number,
+where they sacrificed a dog having a spot on its skin the colour of
+cacao. They burned incense to their idols, after which they gave to
+each of the officials a branch of the cacao plant." Palacio also tells
+us that "the Pipiles, before beginning to plant, gathered all seeds in
+small bowls, after performing certain rites with them before the idol,
+among which was the drawing of blood from different parts of the body
+with which to anoint the idol;" and, as Ximinez states, "the blood of
+slain fowls was sprinkled over the land to be sown."
+
+[Illustration--Drawing: [_From Bontekoe._]
+A CACAO PLANTATION.
+(_One of the earliest illustrations of this subject known, showing the
+shade trees, and beans drying._)]
+
+The idea that secret rites were necessary at the planting of cacao to
+counteract their ignorance of its requirements was long current also
+among the superstitious Spaniards, who similarly accounted for the
+early failures of the English, as witness the following amusing
+extract from a contribution to the _Harleian Miscellany_ in 1690:
+
+     "Cocoa is now a commodity to be regarded in our colonies,
+     though at first it was the principal invitation to the peopling
+     of Jamaica, for those walks the Spaniards left behind them
+     there, when we conquered it, produced such prodigious profit
+     with so little trouble that Sir Thomas Modiford and several
+     others set up their rests to grow wealthy therein, and fell to
+     planting much of it, which the Spanish slaves had always
+     foretold would never thrive, and so it happened: for, though it
+     promised fair and throve finely for five or six years, yet
+     still at that age, when so long hopes and cares had been wasted
+     upon it, withered and died away by some unaccountable cause,
+     though they imputed it to a black worm or grub, which they
+     found clinging to its roots.... And did it not almost
+     constantly die before, it would come into perfection in fifteen
+     years' growth and last till thirty, thereby becoming the most
+     profitable tree in the world, there having been L200 sterling
+     made in one year of an acre of it. But the old trees, being
+     gone by age and few new thriving, as the Spanish negroes
+     foretold, little or none now is produced worthy the care and
+     pains in planting and expecting it. Those slaves gave a
+     superstitious reason for its not thriving, many religious
+     rites being performed at its planting by the Spaniards, which
+     their slaves were not permitted to see. But it is probable
+     that, where a nation as they removed the art of making
+     cochineal and curing vanilloes into their inland provinces,
+     which were the commodities of those islands in the Indians'
+     time, and forbade the opening of any mines in them for fear
+     some maritime nation might be invited to the conquering of
+     them, so they might, likewise, in their transplanting cocoa
+     from the Caracas and Guatemala, conceal wilfully some secret in
+     its planting from their slaves, lest it might teach them to set
+     up for themselves by being able to produce a commodity of such
+     excellent use for the support of man's life, with which alone
+     and water some persons have been necessitated to live ten weeks
+     together, without finding the least diminution of health or
+     strength."
+
+[Illustration--Black and White Plate: Grenada, B.W.I.: Samaritan Estate
+(Showing trays which slide on rails; the iron covers slide over the
+whole in case of wet.)]
+
+However valuable this last quality rendered the newly-discovered
+drink, its method of preparation and the unwonted spices employed
+prevented its ready adoption abroad, although the Spaniards and
+Portuguese took to it more kindly than some of the northern races.
+Joseph Acosta, writing of Mexico and Peru, says:
+
+     "The cocoa is a fruite little less than almonds, yet more
+     fatte, the which being roasted hath no ill taste. It is so much
+     esteemed among the Indians (yea, among the Spaniards), that it
+     is one of the richest and the greatest traffickes of New Spain.
+     The chief use of this cocoa is in a drincke which they call
+     chocholate, whereof they make great account, foolishly and
+     without reason: for it is loathsome to such as are not
+     acquainted with it, having a skumme or frothe that is very
+     unpleasant to taste, if they be not well conceited thereof. Yet
+     it is a drincke very much esteemed among the Indians, whereof
+     they feast noble men as they passe through their country. The
+     Spaniards, both men and women, that are accustomed to the
+     country, are very greedy of this chocholate. They say they make
+     diverse sortes of it, some hote, some colde, and put therein
+     much of that chili: yea, they make paste thereof, the which
+     they say is good for the stomacke, and against the catarre."
+
+But this was not the only medicinal property attributed to "the food
+of the gods," for the Aztecs used to prescribe as a cure for
+diarrhoea and dysentery a potion prepared of cacao mixed with the
+ground bones of their giant ancestors, exhumed in the mountains. Such
+a very active principle was sure to make its enemies too, and several
+amusing attacks have survived to witness their own refutation. It was
+regarded by some as a violent inflamer of the passions, which should
+be prohibited to the monks; for, as one writer puts it, "if such an
+interdiction had existed, the scandal with which that holy order has
+been branded might have proved groundless." As late as 1712, after its
+use had become established in this country, the mentor of the
+_Spectator_ writes: "I shall also advise my fair readers to be in a
+particular manner careful how they meddle with romances, chocolates,
+novels, and the like inflamers, which I look upon as very dangerous to
+be made use of during this great carnival" (the month of May).
+
+[Illustration--Drawing: MEXICAN DRINKING-VESSELS, ROLLING-PIN AND WHISK.]
+
+Some accounted for the assumed ill-effects of cocoa to its admixture
+with sugar in the form of chocolate, for a few years earlier a London
+doctor had declared that "coffee, chocolate, and tea were at the first
+used only as medicines while they continued unpleasant, but since they
+were made delicious with sugar they are become poison." Similarly, an
+anonymous assailant in a pamphlet "Printed at the Black Boy, over
+against St. Dunstan's Church, in Fleet Street," exclaims:
+
+     "As for the great quantity of sugar which is commonly put in,
+     it may destroy the native and genuine temper of the chocolate,
+     sugar being such a corrosive salt, and such an hypocritical
+     enemy of the body. Simeon Pauli (a learned Dane) thinks sugar
+     to be one cause of our English consumption, and Dr. Willis
+     blames it as one of our universal scurvies: therefore, when
+     chocolate produces any ill effects, they may be often imputed
+     to the great superfluity of its sugar."
+
+[Illustration--Black and White Plate: Cacao Tree, Trinidad.]
+
+In the New World fewer questions were raised, and the only
+conscientious objection appears to have been felt by a Bishop of
+Chiapa, whose performance of the Mass was disturbed by its use. The
+story is told in Gaze's "New Survey of the West Indies," published in
+1648, and is worth repetition. It is well to bear in mind his
+information that "two or three hours after a good meal of three or
+four dishes of mutton, veal or beef, kid, turkeys or other fowles, our
+stomackes would bee ready to faint, and so wee were fain to support
+them with a cup of chocolatte."
+
+     "The women of that city, it seems, pretend much weakness and
+     squeamishness of stomacke, which they say is so great that they
+     are not able to continue in church while the mass is briefly
+     hurried over, much lesse while a solemn high mass is sung and a
+     sermon preached, unles they drinke a cup of hot chocolatte and
+     eat a bit of sweetmeats to strengthen their stomackes. For this
+     purpose it was much used by them to make their maids bring them
+     to church, in the middle of mass or sermon, a cup of
+     chocolatte, which could not be done to all without a great
+     confusion and interrupting both mass and sermon. The Bishop,
+     perceiving this abuse, and having given faire warning for the
+     omitting of it, but all without amendment, thought fit to fix
+     in writing upon the church dores an excommunication against all
+     such as should presume at the time of service to eate or
+     drinke within the church. This excommunication was taken by
+     all, but especially by the gentlewomen, much to heart, who
+     protested, if they might not eate or drinke in the church, they
+     could not continue in it to hear what otherwise they were bound
+     unto. But none of these reasons would move the Bishop. The
+     women, seeing him so hard to be entreated, began to slight him
+     with scornefull and reproachfull words: others slighted his
+     excommunication, drinking in iniquity in the church, as the
+     fish doth water, which caused one day such an uproar in the
+     Cathedrall that many swordes were drawn against the Priests,
+     who attempted to take away from the maids the cups of
+     chocolatte which they brought unto their mistresses, who at
+     last, seeing that neither faire nor foule means would prevail
+     with the Bishop, resolved to forsake the Cathedrall: and so
+     from that time most of the city betooke themselves to the
+     Cloister Churches, where by the Nuns and Fryers they were not
+     troubled....
+
+     "The Bishop fell dangerously sick. Physicians were sent for far
+     and neere, who all with a joynt opinion agreed that the Bishop
+     was poisoned. A gentlewoman, with whom I was well acquainted,
+     was commonly censured to have prescribed such a cup of
+     chocolatte to be ministered by the Page, which poisoned him who
+     so rigorously had forbidden chocolatte to be drunk in the
+     church. Myself heard this gentlewoman say that the women had no
+     reason to grieve for him, and that she judged, he being such an
+     enemy to chocolatte in the Church, that which he had drunk in
+     his house had not agreed with his body. And it became
+     afterwards a Proverbe in that country: 'Beware of the
+     chocolatte of Chiapa!' ... that poisoning and wicked city,
+     which truly deserves no better relation than what I have given
+     of the simple Dons and the chocolatte-confectioning Donas."
+
+It was only natural that the nuns and friars of the cloister churches
+should raise no objection to this practice of chocolate drinking, for
+we read further that two of these cloisters were "talked off far and
+near, not for their religious practices, but for their skill in making
+drinkes which are used in those parts, the one called chocolatte,
+another atolle. Chocolatte is (also) made up in boxes, and sent not
+only to Mexico, but much of it yearly transported to Spain."
+
+[Illustration--Drawing: MODERN MEXICAN COCOA WHISK WITH LOOSE RINGS.
+(_Brought home by the author._)]
+
+The introduction of cocoa into Europe, indeed, as well as its
+cultivation for the European market, is due rather to the Jesuit
+missionaries than to the explorers of the Western Hemisphere. It was
+the monks, too, who about 1661 made it known in France. It is curious,
+therefore, to notice the contest that at one time raged among
+ecclesiastics as to whether it was lawful to make use of chocolate in
+Lent; whether it was to be regarded as food or drink. A consensus of
+opinion on the subject, published in Venice in 1748, states that
+
+     "Among the first Probabilist Theologians who undertook to write
+     entire Treatises and to collect all the possible reasons as to
+     whether the Indian beverage (chocolate) could agree with
+     European fasting, was Father Tommaso Hurtado. He employed the
+     whole of the Tenth Treatise of the second volume of the 'Moral
+     Resolutions,' printed in 1651, and added thereto an Appendix of
+     more chapters.
+
+     "Father Diana found reason for acquitting the consciences of
+     those who, in time of fasting, should drink chocolate. Father
+     Hurtado, more courageous withal, and more benign than Diana,
+     does not speak of this treatise in order to investigate the
+     law; the nature of fasting admits drinking without eating.
+     Therefore consumers are, without the help of casuists, troubled
+     themselves and afflicted, when in Lent they empty chocolate
+     cups. Excited on the one hand by the pungent cravings of the
+     throat to moisten it, reproved on the other by breaking their
+     fast, they experience grave remorse of conscience; and, with
+     consciences agitated and torn with drinking the sweet beverage,
+     they sin. Under the guidance of these skilful theologians, the
+     remorse aroused by natural and Divine light being blunted,
+     Christians drink joyfully. For all agree that he will break his
+     fast who eats any portion of chocolate, which, dissolved and
+     well mixed with warm water, is not prejudicial to keeping a
+     fast. This is a sufficiently marvellous presupposition. He who
+     eats 4 ozs. of exquisite sturgeon roasted has broken his fast;
+     if he has it dissolved and prepared in an extract of thick
+     broth, he does not sin."
+
+As for the introduction of cocoa into this country, the contemporary
+Gaze tells us that
+
+     "Our English and Hollanders make little use of it when they
+     take a prize at sea, as, not knowing the secret virtue and
+     quality of it for the good of the stomach, of whom I have heard
+     the Spaniards say, when we have taken a good prize, a ship
+     laden with cocoa, in anger and wrath we have hurled overboard
+     this good commodity, not regarding the worth of it."
+
+About the time of the Commonwealth, however, the new drink began to
+make its way among the English, and the _Public Advertiser_ of 1657
+contains the notice that "in Bishopsgate Street, in Queen's Head
+Alley, at a Frenchman's house, is an excellent West India drink,
+called chocolate, to be sold, where you may have it ready at any time,
+and also unmade, at reasonable rates." These rates appear to have been
+from 10s. to 15s. a pound, a price which made chocolate, rather than
+coffee, the beverage of the aristocracy, who flocked to the
+chocolate-houses soon to spring up in the fashionable centres. Here,
+records a Spanish visitor to London, were to be found such members of
+the polite world as were not at the same time members of either House.
+The chocolate-houses were thus the forerunners of our modern clubs,
+and one of them, "The Cocoa Tree," early the headquarters of the
+Jacobite party, became subsequently recognised as the club of the
+literati, including among its members such men as Garrick and Byron.
+White's Cocoa House, adjoining St. James' Palace, was even better
+known, eventually developing into the respectable White's Club, though
+at one time a great gambling centre.[19]
+
+[Illustration--Black and White Plate: White's Club, on left of St.
+James's Palace. (_From a Drawing of the time of Queen Anne._)]
+
+A little later the "Indian Nectar," recommended by a learned doctor on
+account of "its secret virtue," was to be obtained of "an honest
+though poor man" in East Smithfield at 6s. 8d. a pound, or the
+"commoner sort at about half the price," so that it was getting within
+more general reach. Subsequently the following advertisement appeared
+regarding a patented preparation of cocoa "now sold at 4s. 9d. per
+pound."
+
+"N.B.--The curious may be supplied with this superfine chocolate, that
+exceeds the finest sold by other makers, plain at 6s., with vanillos
+at 7s. To be sold for ready money only at Mr. Churchman's Chocolate
+Warehouse, at Mr. John Young's, in St. Paul's Churchyard, London, A.D.
+1732."
+
+The opportunities of increasing the revenue from the growing
+favourite were not lost sight of, and till 1820 its spread was checked
+by a duty of 1s. 6d. a pound, collected by the sale of stamped
+wrappers for each pound, half-pound, or quarter-pound, "neither more
+nor less," just as in the case of patent medicines at present.
+
+In the reign of George III. the duty on colonial cocoa was raised to
+1s. 10d. a pound, that on such as the East India Company imported to
+2s., and that on all other sources of supply to 3s. In the early years
+of the last century the cocoa imported from any country not a British
+possession was charged no less than 5s. 10d. a pound as excise, with
+an extra Custom's duty of from 2 1/2d. to 4 3/4d. on entry for home
+consumption. This restrictive tariff was by degrees relaxed, but it is
+only since 1853 that the duty has been reduced to 2d. a pound on the
+manufactured article, or 1d. a pound on the raw material.
+
+While the heavy duties were in force, all houses in which the
+manufacture or sale of cocoa was carried on were compelled to have
+the fact stated over their doors, under penalty of L200 from the
+dealer having more than six pounds in his possession (who had to be
+licensed), and L100 from the customer encouraging the illicit trade.
+No less than L500 as fine and twelve months in the county gaol were
+inflicted for counterfeiting the stamp or selling chocolate without a
+stamp. To prevent evasion by selling the drink ready made, it was
+enacted under George I., whose physicians were extolling its medicinal
+virtues, that
+
+     "Notice shall be given by those who make chocolate for private
+     families, and not for sale, three days before it is begun to be
+     made, specifying the quantity, etc., and within three days
+     after it is finished the person for whom it is made shall enter
+     the whole quantity on oath, and have it duly stamped."
+
+Nothing is more eloquent of the growing favour in which cocoa is held
+in this country, as its real value becomes more generally appreciated,
+than the remarkable progressive increase of the quantities imported
+during recent years, as will be seen from the table appended. These
+quantities doubled between 1880 and 1890, and have since more than
+doubled again.
+
+
+  TABLE SHOWING THE QUANTITIES OF CACAO CLEARED
+  FOR HOME CONSUMPTION SINCE 1880.
+
+                     lbs.
+     1880         10,556,159
+     1881         10,897,795
+     1882         11,996,853
+     1883         12,868,170
+     1884         13,976,891
+     1885         14,595,168
+     1886         15,165,714
+     1887         15,873,698
+     1888         18,227,017
+     1889         18,464,164
+     1890         20,224,175
+     1891         21,599,860
+     1892         20,797,283
+     1893         20,874,995
+     1894         22,441,048
+     1895         24,484,502
+     1896         24,523,428
+     1897         27,852,152
+     1898         32,087,084
+     1899         34,013,812
+     1900         37,829,326
+     1901         42,353,724
+     1902         45,643,784
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[18] Not an "Emperor," as reported by his conquerors.
+
+[19] See Appendix III.
+
+
+[Illustration--Colour Plate: CHART SHOWING THE POSITIONS OF THE
+PRINCIPAL COCOA PLANTATIONS OF THE WORLD.]
+
+
+
+
+V. ITS SOURCES AND VARIETIES.
+
+
+[Illustration--Drawing: SACKS OF CACAO BEANS.]
+
+Guayaquil, in the republic of Ecuador, on the west coast of South
+America, produces the largest output in the world. This cacao has a
+bold bean and a fine flavour, and is rich in theobromine; it is much
+valued on the market, and its strength and character render it
+indispensable to the manufacturer.
+
+The neighbouring countries of Columbia and Venezuela, facing the
+Caribbean Sea, have for centuries grown cacao of excellent quality.
+The _criollo_ (creole) bean is generally used as seed, and for it high
+prices are obtained. Owing, however, to the unsettled state of the
+republics and their unstable governments, its cultivation has gone
+back rather than forward during the past decade. With better
+administration and settled peace, great developments might easily be
+achieved. The British Royal Mail Steam Packet Company provides a good
+fortnightly service to England.
+
+In early times the Jesuit missionaries encouraged the natives to form
+small plantations on the borders of the river Orinoco, and Father
+Gumilla, in his "History of the Orinoco," says: "I have seen in these
+plains forests of wild cacao-trees, laden with bunches of pods,
+supplying food to an infinite multitude of monkeys, squirrels,
+parrots, and other animals."
+
+The name of "Soconosco" cocoa is still a guarantee of excellent
+quality. This district in Guatemala was in bygone days so noted for
+its cacao that the whole crop was monopolized for the use of the
+Spanish Court. In Central America, as in other countries, the
+Spaniards gathered more solid riches from the cacao than from the gold
+mines they hoped to discover.
+
+[Illustration--Black and White Plate: A Scene in the Maracas Valley,
+Trinidad.]
+
+British and Dutch Guiana produced but little cacao as long as sugar
+realized high prices, but in comparatively recent years it has been
+more extensively planted, and the crops from the lowlands at the
+mouths of the great South American rivers have been very heavy.
+
+In French Guiana cacao was scarcely cultivated until about 1734, when
+a forest of it was discovered on a branch of the Yari, which flows
+into the Amazon. From this forest seeds were gathered, and plantations
+were laid out in Cayenne.
+
+The cacao of Para in Brazil differs from all other growths; the bean
+is much smaller and rounder, and is elongated, but when well cured it
+is mild, and has a very pleasant flavour, highly valued by
+manufacturers. Bahia produces large quantities of cacao, formerly of
+an inferior quality, owing to careless cultivation and indiscriminate
+mixing of all that was brought from the interior, some of it wild and
+uncured. But now this state of things is being improved, and the good
+quality of "fermented" Bahian cacao is fully recognised.
+
+A little cacao is grown in the low-lying parts of Rio Janeiro, but it
+is not to be met with further south than this. The part of Florida
+which borders the Gulf of Mexico and the southern part of Louisiana
+mark the northerly limit of its natural growth.[20] A traveller in
+Louisiana in 1796 speaks of the cacao-tree among others as "covering
+with delightful shade the shores of the Mississippi," and on the banks
+of the Alatamaha in Georgia, but it is not cultivated so far north.
+
+At the present day the West India Islands rival the South American
+Continent in providing cocoa from the New World. Trinidad has for more
+than a century deservedly claimed to be the first of these
+cocoa-producing islands. As far back as the sixteenth century the
+Spaniards who first colonized the island were interested in the
+cultivation of cacao. In the year 1780 a French gentleman residing in
+the neighbouring island of Grenada visited Trinidad, and gave such a
+glowing account of its fertility that agriculturists from France
+and elsewhere flocked to the colony, and ever since this date it has
+maintained a high standard of agricultural advance. The names of the
+cacao estates at the present day are nearly all Spanish or French, and
+throughout the British occupation of more than a hundred years the old
+families have in many cases held the same lands.[21]
+
+[Illustration--Colour Plate: MAP OF TRINIDAD.]
+
+The oldest estates in the island lie in the northern valleys of Santz
+Cruz, Maracas, and Arima; but cultivation has been considerably
+extended in the Montserrat and Naparima districts, and more recently
+in almost every part of the island reached by the extension of the
+railway and the coasting steamboat. The Trinidad bean is the largest
+and finest flavoured, and commands a higher price on the market than
+any other from the West Indies.
+
+[Illustration--Drawing: MAP OF GRENADA, BRITISH WEST INDIES.]
+
+Next in importance to Trinidad is the little island of Grenada; here
+cacao is the staple industry, the sugar estates that once lined the
+shores having entirely disappeared. Grenada cacao is smaller than that
+of Trinidad, possibly on account of the different method of planting
+described in a previous chapter, but the flavour of the bean is
+exceedingly good and regular, and the crop is bought up eagerly on the
+British and American markets. The other West Indian islands producing
+cocoa are Jamaica and Dominica, where its cultivation is reviving;
+also St. Lucia, St. Vincent, Tobago, and Montserrat, each of which
+have a few plantations; those in St. Vincent suffered severely by the
+recent hurricane. The French islands of Guadeloupe and Martinique
+supply exclusively to the port of Havre; the cocoa from San Domingo is
+of a somewhat inferior quality. Cuba will probably considerably extend
+its output under American rule.
+
+[Illustration--Black and White Plate: A Hill Cacao Estate, Grenada, B.W.I.]
+
+[Illustration--Drawing: MAP OF PRINCIPE.]
+
+In the Eastern Hemisphere by far the largest supplies come from the
+small islands of St. Thome and Principe, in the Gulf of Guinea,
+belonging to the Portuguese. These have in recent years proved
+especially adapted for the growth of the cacao, and the exports,
+especially from the island of St. Thome, are very large; most of the
+crop finds its way to European markets, transhipping at Lisbon. There
+is little cacao grown in the mainland African colonies, though the
+German Government offers special inducements in the Kameruns; no
+British African colony grows it to any extent. Fernando Po sends
+supplies to Spain, and occasionally on the London market strange
+packages made of rough cowhide stitched with leather thongs are seen,
+containing beans from Madagascar.
+
+[Illustration--Drawing: MAP OF S. THOME.]
+
+[Illustration--Black and White Plate: Ceylon: Carting Cacao to Rail.]
+
+[Illustration--Drawing: MAP OF CEYLON.]
+
+Further east are the plantations of Ceylon. In the hill districts, of
+which Matale is the centre, are many estates, some in joint
+cultivation of tea and cocoa. The output from this colony is at the
+present time nearly stationary. The Dutch East Indian produce is
+almost exclusively shipped to Amsterdam.
+
+[Illustration--Drawing: MAP OF SAMOA.]
+
+In the preceding pages extracts have frequently been culled from
+writers of the past: in the literature of the present day Charles
+Kingsley's graphic account of Trinidad and its cacao and sugar
+plantations in "At Last" should be read _in extenso_. Another very
+interesting episode of modern date is the introduction of the cacao
+into the Samoan Islands in the Pacific by Robert Louis Stevenson.
+Writing to Sidney Colvin, on December 7, 1891, in one of his "Vailima
+Letters," he says:
+
+     "When I was filling baskets all Saturday, in my dull, mulish
+     way, perhaps the slowest worker there, surely the most
+     particular, and the only one that never looked up or knocked
+     off, I could not but think I should have been sent on
+     exhibition as an example to young literary men. 'Here is how to
+     learn to write' might be the motto. You should have seen us;
+     the veranda was like an Irish bog, our hands and faces were
+     bedaubed with soil, and Faauma was supposed to have struck the
+     right note when she remarked (_a propos_ of nothing), 'Too much
+     _eleele_ (soil) for me.' The cacao, you must understand, has to
+     be planted at first in baskets of plaited cocoa-leaf.[22] From
+     four to ten natives were plaiting these in the wood-shed. Four
+     boys were digging up soil and bringing it by the boxful to the
+     veranda. Lloyd and I and Belle, and sometimes S. (who came to
+     bear a hand), were filling the baskets, removing stones and
+     lumps of clay; Austin and Faauma carried them when full to
+     Fanny, who planted a seed in each, and then set them, packed
+     close, in the corners of the veranda. From 12 on Friday till 5
+     p.m. on Saturday we planted the first 1,500, and more than 700
+     of a second lot. You cannot dream how filthy we were, and we
+     were all properly tired."[23]
+
+[Illustration--Black and White Plate: Samoa: A New Clearing for Cacao.]
+
+Three years later he records:
+
+     "I have been forbidden to work, and have been instead doing
+     my two or three hours in the plantation every morning. I only
+     wish somebody would pay me L10 a day for taking care of cacao,
+     and I could leave literature to others."
+
+Cacao cultivation in this island of Upolu has since that date
+developed wonderfully, and is attracting much attention, the first
+produce having been sold in Hamburg at a very high price. The consular
+report on Samoa published in February, 1903, states that "the mainstay
+of Samoa is cocoa," and it will be interesting to follow the progress
+of an industry of which the versatile Scotchman was an early pioneer.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[20] Florida even boasts a town of the name of Cocoa, but inquiries on
+the spot have failed to discover that any attempt was ever made to
+cultivate the plant there.
+
+[21] Two of the coloured plates in this volume are reproductions of
+pictures by members of one of the oldest French families in the
+island, painted on their cocoa estate in the beautiful valley of Santa
+Cruz.
+
+[22] Leaf of the coco-nut palm.
+
+[23] See plates facing pp. 27 and 29.
+
+
+
+
+APPENDIX I.
+
+ANCIENT MANUFACTURE OF COCOA.
+
+
+Most of the operations described are only the performance on a large
+scale by modern machinery of those employed by the Mexicans, and by
+those who learned from them, of whom we read:
+
+     "For this purpose they have a broad, smooth stone, well
+     polished or glazed very hard, and being made fit in all
+     respects for their use, they grind the cacaos thereon very
+     small, and when they have so done, they have another broad
+     stone ready, under which they keep a gentle fire.
+
+     "A more speedy way for the making up of the cacao into
+     chocolate is this: They have a mill made in the form of some
+     kind of malt-mills, whose stones are firm and hard, which work
+     by turning, and upon this mill are ground the cacaos grossly,
+     and then between other stones they work that which is ground
+     yet smaller, or else by beating it up in a mortar bring it into
+     the usual form."
+
+A later writer remarks of this process:
+
+     "The Indians, from whom we borrow it, are not very nice in
+     doing it; they roast the kernels in earthen pots, then free
+     them from their skins, and afterwards crush and grind them
+     between two stones, and so form cakes of it with their hands."
+
+[Illustration--Drawing: A MEXICAN METATE, OR GRINDING STONE.]
+
+And, further on, in speaking of the Spaniards' mode of preparation, he
+says:
+
+     "They put them (the kernels) into a large mortar to reduce them
+     to a gross powder, which they afterwards grind upon a stone.
+     They make choice of a stone which naturally resists the fire,
+     from sixteen to eighteen inches broad, and about twenty-seven
+     or thirty long and three in thickness, and hollowed in the
+     middle about one inch and a half deep. Under this they place a
+     pan of coals to heat the stone, so that the heat makes it easy
+     for the iron roller to make it so fine as to leave neither lump
+     nor the least hardness."
+
+At the present day, when the beans are plentiful on the cacao estates,
+but no machines for manufacture exist, the planters prepare a
+palatable drink by roasting the beans on a moving shovel or pan over
+the open fire, husking them by the time-honoured plan of tossing in
+the breeze, and grinding out on a flat stone in much the same manner
+as did the old Spaniards. The writer has even seen a little
+tobacco-press ingeniously adapted for the purpose of extracting the
+butter, the invention of Mr. J.H. Hart, of the Trinidad Botanical
+Gardens, a gentleman who has done much in the direction of
+investigating the best cacao for seed, and the most favourable methods
+of cultivation.
+
+
+
+
+APPENDIX II.
+
+BOURNVILLE WORKS SUGGESTION SCHEME.
+
+
+OBJECTS.
+
+_December, 1902._
+
+The objects in view are:
+
+1. To encourage our employes to make all the suggestions they can for
+the mutual welfare of the business and everyone connected with it.
+Even the smallest suggestion may be of value.
+
+2. To enable those in our employ to share in the benefit of the
+suggestions they make, and to receive personal recognition for them.
+
+3. To insure harmonious relations between all sections of the work.
+
+
+PRIZES.
+
+Prizes of the undermentioned values will be given half-yearly for
+suggestions meriting reward:
+
+MEN'S DEPARTMENTS.--One of L10; two of L5; two of L2 10s.; ten of L1;
+fifteen of 10s.; thirty of 5s. GIRLS' DEPARTMENTS.--One of L5; two of
+L2; eight of L1; fifteen of 10s.; thirty of 5s.
+
+The following list will indicate on what lines suggestions may be
+made:
+
+1. Comfort, safety, or health of employes.
+
+2. Means by which waste of material may be avoided.
+
+3. Saving of time or expense.
+
+4. Improvements in machinery or in methods of working.
+
+5. Introduction of new goods, or new ideas.
+
+6. Calling attention to any existing defects.
+
+7. Suggestions affecting athletic and other clubs and societies,
+libraries, magazine, etc.
+
+8. Any suggestion not included in the above list will be welcomed.
+
+
+REGULATIONS.
+
+Everyone, including foremen and forewomen, is encouraged to make
+suggestions which, if of value, will be eligible for the prizes
+mentioned above (excepting those sent in by foremen and forewomen).
+
+Suggestions should be written on or attached to the forms which will
+be found on each box, the boxes being fixed in the various
+departments, also in the entrance lodges, dining-rooms, and recreation
+grounds. Suggestions can be placed in any of these.
+
+It is imperative that all particulars at head of form, which will
+bear a distinctive number, should be carefully filled in. If this is
+not complied with no notice will be taken of suggestions. Forms may be
+taken from the book and filled up at home.
+
+All suggestions will be acknowledged by a notice posted on the boards
+once a week, giving a list of the printed numbers on the suggestion
+forms received for consideration.
+
+Should any number not appear in this list a communication should at
+once be sent to the Secretary.
+
+Those who have left the employ of the firm are entitled to prizes for
+any suggestions made whilst they were here, unless they should leave
+through misconduct.
+
+The suggestions are considered weekly by the committees with a member
+of the firm, and are dealt with in the order in which they are
+received. They are finally judged by the firm at the end of May and
+November, and prizes distributed before the summer holidays and at the
+Christmas gathering.
+
+Every effort is made by the committees to keep the names of the
+suggestors _strictly private_.
+
+
+
+
+APPENDIX III.
+
+THE EARLY COCOA HOUSES.
+
+
+At No. 64, St. James's Street is the "Cocoa Tree Club." In the reign
+of Queen Anne there was a famous chocolate-house known as the "Cocoa
+Tree," a favourite sign to mark that new and fashionable beverage. Its
+frequenters were Tories of the strictest school. De Foe tells us in
+his "Journey through England," that "a Whig will no more go to the
+'Cocoa Tree' ... than a Tory will be seen at the coffee-house of St.
+James's." In course of time the "Cocoa Tree" developed into a
+gaming-house and a club.
+
+As a club, the "Cocoa Tree" did not cease to keep up its reputation
+for high play. Although the present establishment bearing the name
+dates its existence only from the year 1853, the old chocolate-house
+was probably converted into a club as far back as the middle of the
+last century. Lord Byron was a member of this club, and so was Gibbon,
+the historian.
+
+--From "Old and New London," Cassell & Co.
+
+
+NOTE.
+
+Reference in detail to the numerous authorities who have been laid
+under contribution for this brochure would be out of place in so
+popular a compilation, but the writer desires to express his special
+indebtedness to "Cocoa: All about It" by "Historicas," not only for
+facts, but also for some of his illustrations. To Messrs. Cadbury,
+too, he is indebted for permission to use several of the
+illustrations, as well as for much valuable information.
+
+
+
+***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE FOOD OF THE GODS***
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