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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Journals Of Two Expeditions Of Discovery In
+North-West And Western Australia, Vol. 1 (of 2), by George Grey
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Journals Of Two Expeditions Of Discovery In North-West And Western Australia, Vol. 1 (of 2)
+
+Author: George Grey
+
+Release Date: June 9, 2005 [EBook #16027]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK JOURNALS OF TWO EXPEDITIONS ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Sue Asscher and Col Choat
+
+
+
+
+
+JOURNALS
+
+OF
+
+TWO EXPEDITIONS OF DISCOVERY
+
+IN
+
+NORTH-WEST AND WESTERN
+
+AUSTRALIA,
+
+DURING THE YEARS 1837, 1838, AND 1839,
+
+Under the Authority of Her Majesty's Government.
+
+DESCRIBING
+
+MANY NEWLY DISCOVERED, IMPORTANT, AND
+FERTILE DISTRICTS,
+
+WITH
+
+OBSERVATIONS ON THE MORAL AND PHYSICAL
+CONDITION OF THE ABORIGINAL INHABITANTS, ETC. ETC.
+
+BY GEORGE GREY, ESQUIRE.
+
+GOVERNOR OF SOUTH AUSTRALIA;
+
+Late Captain of the Eighty-third Regiment.
+
+...
+
+IN TWO VOLUMES.
+
+VOLUME 1.
+
+...
+
+LONDON:
+
+T. AND W. BOONE, 29 NEW BOND STREET.
+
+1841.
+
+...
+
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS OF VOLUME 1.
+
+
+DEDICATION.
+
+
+PREFACE.
+
+
+CHAPTER 1. COMMENCEMENT OF THE EXPEDITION. TENERIFE.
+
+GENERAL PLAN AND OBJECTS.
+INSTRUCTIONS.
+TENERIFE.
+AQUEDUCT AT SANTA CRUZ.
+EXCURSION TO ORATAVA.
+CAMELS.
+STATISTICS OF THE CANARY ISLANDS.
+TABLES.
+METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS.
+VOCABULARY OF THE CANARIAN DIALECTS.
+MARINE BLOWING-STONE.
+GUANCHE BONE CAVE.
+
+
+CHAPTER 2. TO BAHIA AND THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
+
+ATMOSPHERICAL PHENOMENON AT SEA.
+LAND AT BAHIA.
+EVENING WALK.
+THE TOWN.
+STATE OF SOCIETY.
+REMARKS ON VOYAGE FROM BAHIA TO THE CAPE.
+ARRIVAL THERE.
+HIRE THE LYNHER.
+EQUIPMENT AND PLANS.
+SAIL FOR HANOVER BAY.
+
+
+CHAPTER 3. FROM THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE TO HANOVER BAY.
+
+NATURAL HISTORY.
+
+
+CHAPTER 4. HANOVER BAY.
+
+NEW AND DANGEROUS SHOAL.
+ARRIVAL OFF THE COAST OF AUSTRALIA.
+ASPECT OF THE COUNTRY FROM SHIP-BOARD.
+LAND AT HIGH BLUFF POINT.
+WALK TO HANOVER BAY.
+DISTRESS FOR WANT OF WATER ON THE ROUTE.
+LOSS OF OUR THREE DOGS.
+TRACES OF NATIVES.
+THEIR HUTS.
+ALARMING DEBILITY OF THE MEN.
+EFFORTS TO REACH THE VESSEL.
+SWIM AN INLET OF THE SEA.
+DANGER IN THE PASSAGE ACROSS AND AFTER LANDING.
+THE PARTY REGAIN THE LYNHER.
+
+
+CHAPTER 5. AT HANOVER BAY.
+
+PLAGUE OF FLIES.
+ENTRANCE TO PRINCE REGENT'S RIVER.
+EFFECT OF TIDES.
+GREEN ANTS.
+DESCRIPTION OF LANDING-PLACE, AND ENCAMPMENT AT HANOVER BAY.
+FATE OF TWO OF THE DOGS.
+LABOUR OF DISEMBARKING STORES.
+NATIVES.
+REMARKABLE FISHES.
+PREPARATIONS FOR SENDING THE VESSEL TO TIMOR.
+
+
+CHAPTER 6. HANOVER BAY AND ITS VICINITY.
+
+NATIVES SEEN.
+FIRST EXCURSION.
+CHARACTER OF THE SCENERY.
+GEOLOGICAL PHENOMENA.
+CUCKOO-PHEASANT.
+SPORTING.
+NATIVE HAUNTS.
+ATTACK OF NATIVES.
+RETURN TO HANOVER BAY.
+PROCEEDINGS THERE DURING MY ABSENCE.
+CHRISTMAS DINNER.
+PLANTING USEFUL SEEDS.
+WALK TO MUNSTER WATER.
+ISTHMUS NEAR HANOVER BAY.
+HILL OF SHELLS.
+COUNTRY ABOUT PRINCE REGENT'S RIVER.
+GOUTY-STEMMED TREES.
+SINGULAR PIECES OF SANDSTONE.
+
+
+CHAPTER 7. HANOVER BAY AND ITS VICINITY.
+
+OCCUPATION AT THE CAMP.
+RETURN OF THE LYNHER.
+RELATION OF PROCEEDINGS AT TIMOR AND ROTI.
+NEW ISLAND SEEN.
+TROUBLE WITH THE HORSES.
+EXCURSION BY WATER TO PRINCE REGENT'S RIVER.
+CHARACTER OF ITS SHORES.
+SCENERY AND THUNDERSTORM.
+DEPARTURE FOR THE INTERIOR.
+DIFFICULTIES OF THE ROUTE.
+SICKNESS AND MORTALITY AMONG THE HORSES AND STOCK.
+CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY.
+
+
+CHAPTER 8. TO THE GLENELG RIVER.
+
+MEETING AND ENCOUNTER WITH THE NATIVES.
+UNFORTUNATE RESULTS.
+DESCENT FROM THE SANDSTONE RANGE.
+DESCRIPTION OF A NEW VOLCANIC COUNTRY.
+DISCOVERY AND CHARACTER OF THE GLENELG RIVER.
+IMPEDIMENTS FROM MARSHES AND STREAMS.
+PROGRESS TOWARDS THE UPPER PART OF THE GLENELG.
+
+
+CHAPTER 9. TO THE UPPER GLENELG.
+
+WORKS OF NATIVE INDUSTRY.
+MOUNT LYELL.
+MAGNIFICENT PROSPECT.
+MARKS OF INUNDATIONS.
+NATIVES.
+COCKATOOS.
+TORRENTS OF RAIN.
+SWAMPS.
+SNAKE AND KANGAROO.
+NATIVE BRIDGE.
+PRECIPITOUS PASS.
+FRILLED LIZARD.
+BEAUTIFUL COUNTRY.
+WILD OATS.
+CURIOUS BIRDS.
+PAINTED CAVE.
+CROSS A LARGE RIVER.
+NATURAL GRAPERY.
+FORD THE GLENELG.
+WEAKNESS OF THE MEN.
+ANOTHER PAINTED CAVE.
+NARROW ESCAPE.
+IMPASSABLE SANDSTONE RANGES.
+
+
+CHAPTER 10. RETURN TO HANOVER BAY.
+
+UNSUCCESSFUL SEARCH FOR A PASS.
+PREPARATIONS TO RETURN.
+LIGHT EXPLORING PARTY SENT FORWARD UNDER LIEUTENANT LUSHINGTON.
+THEIR REPORT.
+COMMENCEMENT OF MARCH BACK.
+CHANGE OF TRACK.
+CURIOUS MOUNDS OF STONES.
+PASS MOUNT LYELL.
+RECOVERY OF BURIED STORES.
+ANXIETY ON APPROACHING HANOVER BAY.
+REJOIN THE LYNHER.
+MEETING WITH THE BEAGLE.
+STATE OF THE PLANTS AND SEEDS LEFT AT THE ENCAMPMENT.
+REEMBARKATION.
+SAIL FOR THE MAURITIUS.
+
+
+CHAPTER 11. NATURAL HISTORY. CLIMATE. ABORIGINES.
+
+DISTRIBUTION OF ANIMALS.
+NEW KANGAROO.
+NEW DOMESTIC DOG.
+CHECKS ON INCREASE OF ANIMALS.
+INFLUENCE OF MAN ON THEIR HABITS.
+TRACES OF AN ANIMAL WITH A DIVIDED HOOF.
+BIRDS.
+EMUS.
+ALLIGATORS.
+CLIMATE.
+PROOFS OF ITS SALUBRITY.
+THERMOMETRICAL OBSERVATIONS.
+ABORIGINES, THEIR HABITS AND MANNERS.
+INDIVIDUALS OF AN ALIEN RACE.
+SIMILARITY OF CUSTOMS WITH OTHER AUSTRALIAN TRIBES.
+CAVES.
+DRAWINGS.
+TOMBS.
+
+
+CHAPTER 12. PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. COMMERCIAL PROSPECTS.
+
+PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.
+MOUNTAIN RANGES.
+RIVERS.
+VALLEYS.
+PRODUCTIONS SUITED FOR CULTIVATION.
+COMMERCIAL PROSPECTS.
+TRADE WITH THE ASIATIC ARCHIPELAGO.
+METHOD OF BARTER.
+SUCCESS OF AMERICAN VESSELS.
+TRADING PRODUCTS OF THE SEVERAL ISLANDS.
+
+
+CHAPTER 13. AT SWAN RIVER.
+
+PLAN FOR RETURNING TO THE NORTH-WEST COAST.
+WHY ABANDONED.
+EXCURSION TO THE NORTH OF PERTH.
+STORY-TELLING TO NATIVES.
+LAKES.
+DELAY, AND BIVOUACK.
+NATIVE TOILETTE.
+MEETING WITH A NEW TRIBE.
+CURIOUS SUPERSTITIONS.
+REVENGEFUL COMBAT AND MURDER PREVENTED.
+RETURN TO PERTH.
+EXCURSION IN SEARCH OF MR. ELLIOTT.
+CAUSE OF IT.
+THE MURRAY RIVER.
+WILD CATTLE.
+NATIVE TRACKING.
+CROSS THE DARLING RANGE.
+CONDITION OF DISTANT SETTLERS.
+ROUTE ALONG MR. ELLIOTT'S TRACKS.
+KILLING A KANGAROO.
+LOSE THE TRACKS.
+NATIVE GRAVE.
+ESTUARY OF THE LESCHENAULT.
+MEET WITH MR. ELLIOTT.
+RETURN TO PERTH.
+
+
+CHAPTER 14. FROM SWAN RIVER TO THE SHORES OF SHARK BAY.
+
+PLAN OF EXPEDITION.
+SAIL FROM SWAN RIVER FOR SHARK BAY.
+LAND AT BERNIER ISLAND.
+DESCRIPTION OF IT.
+BURY THE STORES.
+INEFFECTUAL SEARCH FOR WATER.
+LOSS OF A BOAT IN REEMBARKING.
+PULL FOR DORRE ISLAND.
+ITS CHARACTER.
+HURRICANE.
+BOATS DRIVEN ASHORE.
+DISTRESS FOR WATER.
+SAIL FOR THE MAIN.
+GROUND ON A SANDBANK.
+EXTENSIVE SHALLOWS.
+FAIL IN MAKING THE LAND.
+ANCHOR OFF MANGROVE CREEK.
+
+
+CHAPTER 15. THE GASCOYNE RIVER.
+
+ENTER A MANGROVE CREEK.
+SEARCH FOR AND COMPLETE OUR WATER.
+EXAMINE ANOTHER CREEK.
+CHARACTER OF THEIR SCENERY.
+DISCOVER ONE MOUTH OF THE GASCOYNE RIVER, AND EXPLORE THE COUNTRY IN ITS
+VICINITY.
+SURVEY OF MOUTHS OF THIS RIVER AND BABBAGE ISLAND.
+EXPLORE THE COUNTRY INLAND TO THE NORTH OF THE RIVER.
+INTERVIEW WITH NATIVES.
+SAIL FROM THE GASCOYNE.
+
+
+CHAPTER 16. TO KOLAINA AND BACK TO THE GASCOYNE.
+
+EXAMINE THE COAST TO THE NORTH OF THE GASCOYNE.
+LYELL'S RANGE.
+BOAT SWAMPED IN BEACHING.
+STATE OF PROVISIONS.
+SEARCH FOR WATER.
+REMARKABLE PLAINS.
+INDISPOSITION OF SEVERAL OF THE PARTY.
+EXAMINATION OF THE SHORE TO THE NORTHWARD, AND OF THE COUNTRY TO THE
+SOUTH-EAST.
+AFFRAY WITH THE NATIVES.
+CONTINUED FOUL WEATHER.
+PUT TO SEA.
+COMPELLED AGAIN TO BEACH THE BOATS.
+ADJACENT COUNTRY EXPLORED.
+LAUNCH THE BOATS, AND ENTER NORTHERN MOUTH OF THE GASCOYNE.
+CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY.
+
+
+CHAPTER 17. FROM THE GASCOYNE TO GANTHEAUME BAY.
+
+SAIL FROM THE GASCOYNE.
+A GALE OF WIND.
+REACH BERNIER ISLAND.
+DESTRUCTION OF THE DEPOT OF PROVISIONS.
+REPAIR DAMAGES, AND RETURN TO THE MAIN.
+ANCHOR TO THE NORTH OF THE GASCOYNE.
+EXAMINE THE COAST TO THE SOUTHWARD.
+ITS CHARACTER.
+STEER FROM THE MAIN.
+ANOTHER GALE.
+LAND ON PERRON'S PENINSULA.
+DESCRIPTION OF IT.
+ROUND CAPE LESUER.
+BEACH THE BOATS.
+SAIL AGAIN FOR DIRK HARTOG'S ISLAND.
+LAND THERE.
+PASS OVER TO THE MAIN.
+DESCRIPTION OF THE LAND.
+ROUND STEEP POINT, AND PUT BACK AGAIN.
+PASSAGE TO GANTHEAUME BAY.
+THE INTERVENING COAST.
+BOAT TOTALLY WRECKED IN BEACHING IN GANTHEAUME BAY.
+
+...
+
+
+ERRATUM.
+
+Volume 1 Table: for Castles, read Chateaux.
+
+...
+
+
+LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
+
+VOLUME 1.
+
+1. Map of the District of the River Glenelg, on the North-Western Coast
+of Australia, from the surveys of George Grey, Esquire, by John
+Arrowsmith.
+
+2. Sandstone Cave with Paintings near Glenelg River.
+Drawn on stone by George Barnard from a sketch by Captain George Grey.
+M. and N. Hanhart, Lithographic Printers, 64 Charlotte Street, Rathbone
+Place.
+
+3. Diphya, Sp.
+
+4. Diphya, Sp. (Acalepha.)
+
+5. Salpa, Sp.
+
+6. Hyalea, Sp.
+
+7. Physsophora rosacea.
+
+8. Erichthus vitreus.
+
+9. Janthina exigua.
+
+10. Glaucus, Sp.
+
+11. Phyllosoma, Sp.
+
+12. Attack of Natives near Hanover Bay.
+Drawn on stone by George Barnard from a sketch by Captain George Grey.
+M. and N. Hanhart, Lithographic Printers, 64 Charlotte Street, Rathbone
+Place.
+
+13. Three rows of notches made by people on the Gouty-Stem Tree.
+
+14. Gigantic Ants' Nest and Gouty-Stem Tree.
+Drawn on stone by George Barnard from a sketch by Captain George Grey.
+M. and N. Hanhart, Lithographic Printers, 64 Charlotte Street, Rathbone
+Place.
+
+15.1. Figure drawn on the roof of Cave, discovered March 26th.
+
+15.2. Figure drawn on side of Cave, discovered March 26th.
+
+15.3. Oval drawing in Cave, discovered March 26th.
+
+15.4. Figure drawn in Cave, discovered March 26th.
+
+16. Head cut in Sandstone Rock.
+Captain Grey, delt. G. Foggo, Lithographer. M. and N. Hanhart,
+Lithographic Printers.
+
+17. Figure drawn on roof of Cave, discovered March 29th.
+
+18. Supposed Native Tombs.
+Discovered on the North-Western Coast of New Holland, 7 April 1838.
+Published by T. & W. Boone, London.
+
+19. Nest or Bower of the Chalmydera nuchalis.
+
+20. Map and Chart of the West Coast of Australia, from Swan River to
+Shark Bay, Including Houtman's Abrolhos and Port Grey, from the Surveys
+of Captains Grey, Wickham, and King, and from other official Documents,
+compiled by John Arrowsmith.
+
+21. Attack of Natives near Kolaina Plains.
+Drawn on stone by George Barnard from a sketch by Frederick C. Smith,
+Esquire.
+M. and N. Hanhart, Lithographic Printers, 64 Charlotte Street, Rathbone
+Place.
+
+
+
+...
+
+
+
+DEDICATION.
+
+
+TO
+
+THE LORD GLENELG,
+
+UNDER WHOSE AUSPICES,
+
+AS PRINCIPAL SECRETARY OF STATE FOR THE COLONIES,
+
+THE EXPEDITIONS
+
+RECORDED IN THE FOLLOWING PAGES
+
+WERE UNDERTAKEN,
+
+THESE VOLUMES ARE RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED,
+
+IN GRATEFUL REMEMBRANCE
+
+OF HIS ASSISTANCE, HIS COUNSELS, AND HIS KINDNESS,
+
+IN HIS HIGH PUBLIC STATION,
+
+AND
+
+WITH A PROFOUND RESPECT
+
+FOR
+
+HIS PERSONAL AND DOMESTIC VIRTUES.
+
+...
+
+
+PREFACE.
+
+The following pages contain the results of the author's travels and
+residence in the western parts of Australia, between the years 1837 and
+1840, during which period he traversed extensive regions unknown to the
+European traveller, and probably never before trodden by the foot of
+civilized man.
+
+It is not alone with gratification of enlightened curiosity that the
+countries now first brought to notice are likely to be objects of
+interest. A knowledge of the districts lying between Swan River and Shark
+Bay cannot but be of importance to future colonists, whilst the
+intertropical provinces of the north-west coasts, distinguished as they
+are by important peculiarities both of character and position, are
+equally calculated to draw the attention of the literary and enterprising
+enquirer.
+
+It only remains to state in a few words the circumstances under which
+this work is given to the public.
+
+The author arrived in England in September, 1840, and was engaged in
+preparing his notes for publication when he was unexpectedly honoured
+with an appointment which re-called him to Australia in the month of
+December following.
+
+Avocations both of a public and private nature arising out of that
+appointment prevented him from carrying his work through the press during
+the short period of his residence in this country, and consequently the
+final arrangement of the impression and the duties of typographical
+revision devolved on others.
+
+Although no pains have been spared to render these volumes worthy of the
+public eye, the circumstances under which they appear will naturally
+occasion them to be marked by defects which, doubtless, would not have
+escaped the author's notice and correction had he been present.
+
+It would be an act of injustice not to express here the obligations the
+author is under to Mr. J.E. Gray of the British Museum for his valuable
+assistance in whatever relates to natural history in the body of the
+work, as well as for the contributions in the same branch of science
+which will be found in the Appendix; nor are his thanks less due to Mr.
+Adam White for an interesting paper on the Entomology of Australia; and
+to Mr. Gould, who has lately visited that country, for his list of the
+Birds of the Western Coast.
+
+...
+
+
+
+JOURNALS OF EXPEDITIONS OF DISCOVERY.
+
+CHAPTER 1. COMMENCEMENT OF THE EXPEDITION. TENERIFE.
+
+GENERAL PLAN AND OBJECTS.
+
+The Expeditions of which the results are narrated in the following pages
+took their origin from a proposition made to Government by myself, in
+conjunction with Lieutenant Lushington,* in the latter part of the year
+1836.
+
+(*Footnote. Now Captain Lushington of the 9th Foot.)
+
+At that time a large portion of the western coast and interior of the
+great Australian continent had remained unvisited and unknown; whilst the
+opinions of the celebrated navigators Captains Dampier and King,
+connected with other circumstances, led to the inference, or at least the
+hope, that a great river, or water inlet, might be found to open out at
+some point on its western or north-western side; which had then been only
+partially surveyed from seaward.
+
+DESIGN OF THE EXPEDITION.
+
+Anxious to solve this interesting geographical problem, we addressed a
+letter to Lord Glenelg, the Secretary of State for the Colonies, wherein
+we offered our services to conduct an exploration from the Swan River to
+the northward, having regard to the direction of the coast, so as to
+intersect any considerable body of water connecting it with the interior;
+and, in the event of such being discovered, to extend our examination of
+it as far as circumstances might admit.
+
+The letter containing this offer also enumerated several secondary
+objects, to which we proposed to direct our attention, and which were
+ultimately comprehended in our instructions.
+
+The offer and suggestions were favourably entertained by Lord Glenelg,
+and further communications invited; and, the project having been favoured
+by the support of the Royal Geographical Society, our services were
+finally accepted by the Government.
+
+INSTRUCTIONS.
+
+More mature consideration however led to a material alteration in the
+first plan; for whilst our principal object, namely, the search for a
+great river or interior inlet, remained the same, it was considered, for
+several reasons, more advisable that the exploration should commence from
+the vicinity of Prince Regent's River, on the north-west coast, and be
+directed towards the Swan. I shall pass over the various points of detail
+which occupied our time and attention until the moment of departure, as
+they offer no matters of general interest. It will be sufficient to say
+that everything suggested as likely to be conducive to the success and
+utility of the expedition was most liberally granted and supplied; and,
+when all was prepared, a letter of instructions dated the 16th June 1837
+was addressed by Lord Glenelg to myself and Lieutenant Lushington
+conjointly; which embraced the following points:
+
+1. We were to embark in H.M. sloop of war the Beagle, then fitting out
+for a survey of the coasts and seas of Australia, under the command of
+Captain Wickham, R.N.; and to proceed in that vessel either to the Cape
+of Good Hope or to Swan River, as might ultimately appear best suited to
+forward the objects of the expedition.
+
+2. On our arrival at either of the foregoing places, we were directed to
+procure a small vessel to convey the party and stores to the most
+convenient point in the vicinity of Prince Regent's River.
+
+3. After due examination of the country about Prince Regent's River we
+were instructed to take such a course as would lead us in the direction
+of the great opening behind Dampier's Land. From the moment of our
+arrival at this point our subsequent proceedings were left more
+discretionary; but the instructions continued: "You will use the utmost
+exertions to penetrate from thence to the Swan River; as, by adopting
+this course, you will proceed in a direction parallel to the unknown
+coast, and must necessarily cross every large river that flows from the
+interior towards that side of the continent."
+
+4. That we might have an opportunity, in the event of any unforeseen
+difficulties occurring, of falling back upon the vessel conveying the
+party, she was not to quit the place where she might have been left by it
+until such a time had elapsed, from the departure of the expedition for
+the interior, as should be agreed upon; and, to ensure the observance of
+this condition, we were instructed to act by the advice of the local
+authorities of the colony where she might be engaged in drawing up the
+agreement, as well as in procuring guarantees for its fulfilment.
+
+5. The main objects of the expedition were then specified to be: To gain
+information as to the real state of North-Western Australia, its
+resources, and the course and direction of its rivers and mountain
+ranges; to familiarize the natives with the British name and character;
+to search for and record all information regarding the natural
+productions of the country, and all details that might bear upon its
+capabilities for colonization or the reverse; and to collect specimens of
+its natural history.
+
+6. It was directed that strict discipline should be observed, and the
+regulations by which our intercourse with the natives was to be governed
+were laid down; after which the instructions concluded with the following
+paragraphs:
+
+No further detail has been given you in these instructions, for, as you
+have been made aware of the motives which have induced his Majesty's
+Government to send out the expedition, it is supposed each individual
+will do his utmost in his situation to carry these objects out, either by
+obtaining all possible information or by such other means as may be in
+his power.
+
+Although the instructions regarding the expedition are addressed to you
+conjointly as conductors of it, it is necessary that the principal
+authority and direction should be vested in one individual, on whom the
+chief responsibility would rest.
+
+It is to be understood that Lieutenant Grey, the senior military officer,
+is considered as commanding the party and the person by whose orders and
+instructions all individuals composing the party will be guided and
+conform.
+
+...
+
+1837.
+
+All our preparations being completed, there embarked in the Beagle,
+besides myself and Mr. Lushington, Mr. Walker, a surgeon and naturalist,
+and Corporals Coles and Auger, Royal Sappers and Miners, who had
+volunteered their services; and we sailed from Plymouth on the 5th July
+1837.
+
+TENERIFE. AQUEDUCT AT SANTA CRUZ.
+
+The usual incidents of a sea voyage brought us to Santa Cruz in Tenerife,
+where I landed on Wednesday 19th July 1837, about 2 o'clock in the
+afternoon. There was a sort of table d'hote at 3 o'clock at an hotel kept
+by an Englishman, at which I dined, and was fortunate in so doing as I
+met there a German and several English merchants who were principally
+engaged in the trade of the country. There was also a gentleman who had
+been from his earliest years in the African trade for gums, etc.; and he
+gave me many interesting particulars of the wild life the individuals so
+occupied are compelled to lead. In the afternoon I made a set of magnetic
+observations and then walked out to see the aqueduct; which at about
+three-quarters of a mile to the north-east of the town approaches it by a
+passage cut through a mountain. The execution of this work must have been
+attended with immense labour, for, although the design is grand and
+noble, the actual plan upon which it has been completed was by no means
+well conceived. The average depth of this cut is at least one hundred and
+twenty feet, its length is about one hundred and eighty, whilst its
+breadth in many parts is not more than four.
+
+Previously to the construction of this aqueduct the town of Santa Cruz
+was very badly supplied with water, indeed so much so that the
+inhabitants were, at some periods of the year, compelled to send upwards
+of three miles for it; but no want of this nature has ever been
+experienced since its completion. The expenses of its construction as
+also of keeping it in repair are principally defrayed by a tax upon all
+wine and spirits actually consumed in the town.
+
+The scenery of the country I walked through was bold and romantic but by
+no means rich; fig-trees grew wild about the mountains, and it seemed
+singular that, whenever I approached one, the peasants on the adjacent
+hills shouted out in loud tones. As far as I could understand the guide,
+this was done to deter us from eating the fruits now just ripe, and, upon
+my return to the town and making further enquiries, I found that such was
+their custom.
+
+EXCURSION TO ORATAVA.
+
+July 20th.
+
+I started at six o'clock with Mr. Lushington for Oratava, distant about
+30 miles from Santa Cruz. We were mounted on small ponies, admirably
+adapted to the wretched roads of the country, and accompanied by two
+guides who carried our carpet bags.
+
+CAMELS, MATANZAS, THE GUANCHES.
+
+The first town we came to was Laguna, which appeared to be of some
+importance; it is distant about four miles from Santa Cruz. On this road
+we passed many camels laden with heavy burdens; a circumstance which
+rather surprised me for I had always imagined that, owing to the peculiar
+formation of its foot, the camel was only fitted for travelling over
+sandy ground, whilst the way from Santa Cruz to Laguna is one continued
+mass of sharp rocks, utterly unworthy of the name of a road; yet these
+animals appeared to move over it without the least inconvenience.
+
+After leaving Laguna the country for some miles bore a very uninteresting
+appearance; for, although apparently fertile, it was quite parched up by
+the extreme heat of the sun; our guides, who were on foot carrying our
+carpet bags, kept up with us by running, and, occasionally when tired,
+catching hold of the horses' tails to assist themselves along.
+
+We halted for breakfast at Matanzas (or the place of slaughter) so called
+from a dreadful slaughter of the Spaniards which was here made by the
+Guanches, the aborigines of the island. I examined the spot where this
+occurred; it is a narrow defile, formed by a precipice on one hand, and
+perpendicular rocks on the other, and lies on the only route by which you
+can pass across the island from east to west; it was therefore well
+adapted for the purposes of savage warfare, and the Guanches here made
+the Spaniards pay dearly for the cruelties practised on themselves.
+
+All traces of this interesting people, who were eventually extirpated by
+the Spaniards, have long since vanished, and, although I spared no pains,
+I could glean but little information about them, but to this subject I
+will advert again.
+
+Before breakfast I made a set of magnetic observations, and then,
+swallowing a hasty meal, prepared to start. A difficulty however arose
+here, for neither Mr. Lushington nor myself spoke a word of Spanish,
+although we understood tolerably well what others said to us; the paying
+our bill became therefore rather a matter of embarrassment. One of the
+guides saw our distress and made signs that he would arrange matters for
+us; we accordingly gave him a dollar. With this he paid the bill and I
+saw him receive some change, which he coolly pocketed; I afterwards asked
+him for it, but he pretended with the utmost nonchalance not to
+understand me; so we saw no more of it.
+
+SCENERY NEAR ORATAVA.
+
+In the ride from Matanzas to Oratava the road is wretched but the scenery
+compensates for this. Upon arriving at the brow of the hill above
+Oratava, a beautiful prospect bursts upon the sight; directly in front
+rises the lordly Peak, whilst in the foreground are vineyards, cottages,
+and palm-trees; in the centre stands La Villa, the upper town of Oratava,
+encircled with gardens; on the right lies a rich slope running down to
+the sea which bounds the prospect on that side; and on the left rise
+rocky mountains, for the greater part clothed with wood.
+
+We now spurred our horses on and, leaving the guides behind, soon reached
+La Villa, accompanied by a countryman who had joined us upon a pony; but,
+on getting into the town, the melancholy truth rushed upon my
+recollection that we could not speak Spanish: had we remained with our
+guides this would not much have signified, for they had been told at
+Santa Cruz to take us to a hotel.
+
+EMBARRASSMENTS ON ARRIVAL THERE.
+
+Nothing remained now but to do our best to open a communication; we
+accordingly accosted a variety of individuals in English, French,
+Italian, German--but in vain. Spanish alone was understood or spoken
+here; our friend, the countryman, stuck to us most nobly, he understood
+us not a bit better than the rest but saw that we were in distress and
+would not desert us.
+
+We at last deliberately halted under a house where we could get a little
+shade, for the sun was intensely hot and, a crowd having soon collected,
+we harangued them alternately and received long answers in reply; but,
+although able to make out a great deal of what they said, we could not
+get them to understand a single word on our part. At length kind fate
+sent the guides to our rescue and they led us off direct to the hotel.
+
+This however brought only partial relief to our wants; we opened our
+mouths, and pointed down our throats. So much was understood and a
+chicken instantly killed. We laid our heads upon a table, feigning sleep,
+and were shown to a wretched room; but here all converse terminated. Mr.
+Lushington desired to ascend the Peak therefore it became necessary that
+we should hit upon some means of making them comprehend this; but all
+efforts were in vain. At length they proposed to send for an interpreter,
+which was accordingly done; but he was at dinner, and could not then
+come.
+
+At last the interpreter arrived, a Spanish Don who had been for some
+years resident in a mercantile house in New York; he was very dirty, but
+good-natured, and soon made the necessary arrangements for Mr.
+Lushington; who for eight dollars was to be provided with a pony, a
+sumpter mule, provisions and guides, taken safely to the top of the Peak
+and brought back again; which I thought reasonable enough.
+
+After these arrangements I managed to scrape some acquaintance with this
+Spanish gentleman, who told me to my great edification that I was in a
+notorious gambling house. I had been informed at Santa Cruz that the
+inhabitants of those islands were dreadfully addicted to that vice, and I
+now, from personal observation, found this was too true.
+
+After dinner I started to walk to the Port of Oratava, distant about
+three miles; there was beautiful scenery the whole way, and a tolerable
+road for the island. I called on Mr. Carpenter, the British Consul, to
+whom I had a letter, and he made arrangements for my being admitted to
+the botanical gardens at six o'clock the next morning.
+
+On my return to La Villa all the roues of the town were assembled at our
+hotel to eat ices and gamble: I joined them in the former but not in the
+latter amusement.
+
+SPANISH INTERPRETER. MANNERS.
+
+The gentleman who had acted as interpreter for us was also there, but I
+could gain very little further information from him. He told me that they
+had just heard George the Eighth, the King of England, was dead (William
+the Fourth had just died) and his knowledge of the other European
+countries was much upon the same scale. I found that gambling was here
+carried on to an extent which was really deplorable.
+
+July 21.
+
+I started at half-past five for the botanic gardens, diligently inspected
+them, and afterwards made a set of magnetic observations; this occupied a
+large portion of the morning. I however still had time to geologise for
+about three hours, and then rode back to Santa Cruz, where I did not
+arrive till late at night.
+
+STATISTICS OF THE CANARY ISLANDS. TABLES.
+
+July 22.
+
+In the morning I renewed my magnetic observations and, having dined at
+the table d'hote, I passed the afternoon in calling upon several persons,
+and collecting such information regarding the group of islands as I could
+pick up. Two statistical tables then given to me I have here inserted.
+
+The first shows the extent of the seven larger islands and the average
+number of inhabitants in each. On these numbers I think dependence may be
+placed, as they nearly agree, in the total, with that given by Tarrente
+in the Geografia Universal (1828) who makes it 196,517, being about
+12,000 above the number given by Humboldt for the gross population at the
+end of the last century.
+
+The second table gives the quantity of the most important products raised
+annually in each island.
+
+(@@@TABLE OF EXTENT AND NUMBER OF INHABITANTS OF THE SEVEN LARGER
+ISLANDS.)
+
+(@@@TABLE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT PRODUCTS OF EACH ISLAND.)
+
+METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS AT ORATAVA AND SANTA CRUZ.
+
+To these I have added a short table showing the mean heat of every month
+at Tenerife, as deduced from a continued series of daily observations by
+Dr. Savignon and Mr. Richardson, at Laguna between the years 1811 and
+1818, to which is annexed another of the quantity of rain which fell
+during some months of the years 1812 and 1813.
+
+The two gentlemen who had made these observations having since died, I
+was not able to obtain any of the actual thermometrical observations, but
+to the son of Mr. Richardson I am obliged for having allowed me to copy
+the results contained in these tables.
+
+SUMMARY OF OBSERVATIONS MADE BY DR. SAVIGNON* AND MR. RICHARDSON, AT
+LAGUNA.
+
+(*Footnote. Monsieur Savignon, Medecin du Gouvernement, se distingue par
+un caractere honorable et des connoissances etendues dans la profession.
+Voyage aux Terres Australes Tome 1 page 21.)
+
+La temporatura media de la Laguna puedi considerarse de 63 de Fahrenheit,
+dentro las casas del centro de la Ciudad, en sombra y al ayre libre;
+segun resulta de 8 Anos de observaciones, no interrumpidas ni un solo dia
+desde 1811 a 1818.*
+
+POR MESES COMO SIGUE.
+
+Emero, 55 a 55 1/2.
+Febrero, 56 a 56.
+Marzo, 58 a 58 1/4.
+Abril, 59 a 59 1/4.
+Mayo, 62 a 62.
+Junio, 65 a 65.
+Julio, 69 a 68 3/4.
+Agosto, 71 a 71 1/4.
+Septiembre, 70 a 70 1/4.
+Octubre, 66 a 66 3/8.
+Noviembre, 62 a 62.
+Diciembre, 58 a 58.
+
+62 3/4, media De lo 8 Anos.
+
+(*Footnote. The mean temperature of Laguna may be estimated at 63 degrees
+of Fahrenheit, within doors, in the middle of the town; the thermometer
+being placed in the shade, and exposed to the air. Result of eight years'
+uninterrupted daily observations from 1811 to 1818.)
+
+Rain which fell in two years, 1812 and 1813, in inches. Column 1 1812.
+Column 2 1813.
+
+Emero, 10.79 3.34.
+Febrero, 2.22 2.46.
+Marzo, 0.15 4.17.
+Abril, 0.09 2.39.
+Mayo.
+Junio.
+Julio.
+Agosto.
+Septiembre, - 0.15.
+Octubre, 1.76 7.34.
+Noviembre, 2.12 4.24.
+Diciembre, 2.20 1.13.
+
+19.33 25.22.
+
+In twenty-four hours in January, fell 5.24 inches.
+
+A few observations taken on board the Beagle during the five days it lay
+at Santa Cruz seemed to give a mean heat of about 76 degrees; but it must
+be remembered that these observations were made in a vessel lying only
+about a quarter of a mile from the shore and exposed to the constant rays
+of the sun during six days of a season considered by the inhabitants to
+be a very warm one. I do not therefore think that the observations of Dr.
+Savignon and Mr. Richardson, taken under such very different
+circumstances at Laguna, which Von Buch estimates at 264 toises above the
+sea, could be far from the truth.
+
+The annual mean temperature of Santa Cruz according to Von Buch is 71
+degrees 8' Fahrenheit, or 21 degrees 8' of the centigrade scale.
+
+OCCASIONAL VIOLENT STORMS.
+
+From Mr. Cochrane, a very intelligent English merchant whom I met there,
+I obtained much information on various points, and he brought to my
+notice the violent storms of wind and rain which occur on the island
+occasionally during the rainy season, and cause great destruction and
+damage.
+
+DAMAGE BY STORM OF 1826.
+
+One had passed over in the month of March of the year I was there (1837)
+and I was fortunate enough to obtain an official account of the damage
+occasioned by another in November 1826, which is here annexed. A similar
+one was experienced, as will be seen by the table, in January 1812, when
+5.24 inches of rain fell in twenty-four hours.
+
+En la noche del 7 al 8 de Novembre 1826, se experimento un temporal de
+Viento y Agua, que causo on todas les Yslas muchos estragos. En 8 pueblos
+de la de Tenerife, se sufrion las des-gracias que manifiesta el siguente
+Estado.
+
+[In the night between the 7th and 8th of November 1826 was experienced a
+storm of wind and rain which caused great ravages in all the islands. In
+8 districts of Tenerife were sustained the losses enumerated below.]
+
+COLUMN 1: PUEBLOS. Towns.
+COLUMN 2: PERSONAS. Persons.
+COLUMN 3: CUSAE DESTRUIDAS. Houses Destroyed.
+COLUMN 4: ANIMALES. Animals.
+COLUMN 5: CASAS ARRUINADAS. Houses Ruined.
+
+Villa de la Oratava 104 144 591 75.
+Puerto de la Cruz 32 31 23 6.
+Realejo de Arriba 25 41 - -.
+Realejo de Abajo 14 9 - 2.
+Guancha 52 72 344 31.
+Rambla 10 14 13 -.
+Ycod 5 - - -.
+Santa Ursula 1 - 38 -.
+
+VOCABULARY OF THE CANARIAN DIALECTS.
+
+Sunday July 23.
+
+I procured a few words of the original languages of the Guanches from in
+old government manuscript, and as from this circumstance no doubt can
+exist as to its authenticity, I have inserted them.
+
+Several of these will be found already published in the History of the
+Canary Islands by Glas (page 174) with occasional slight differences of
+spelling, whilst the rest, though few in number, are, as far as I am
+aware, now first given.
+
+VOCABULARY OF TENERIFE, OF CANARY AND PALMA.
+
+Such scanty vocabularies and some mummies from Tenerife, scattered
+through the cabinets of the curious in various parts of Europe, are the
+only existing records of the race which held possession of these islands
+on the descent of John de Betancourt, about the year 1400, and who were
+nearly exterminated within little more than a century after.
+
+ALGUNAS DICCIONES DE LA LENGUA GUANCHINESA O DE TENERIFE.
+
+(Some words of the language of the Guanches, or of Tenerife.)
+
+COLUMN 1: GUANCHEAN.
+COLUMN 2: SPANISH.
+COLUMN 3: ENGLISH.
+
+Achamam : Dios : God.
+Achano : Ano : A year.
+Achicaxna (Achicarna, Glas.) : Villano : A peasant.
+Achimencey : Hidalgo : A nobleman.
+Ataman : - : Heaven.
+Axa (Ara, Glas.) : Cabra : A Goat.
+Banot : Vara Endurecida : A Pole hardened (by fire).
+Cancha : Perro : A Dog.
+Achicuca : Hijo : A son.
+Cichiciquizo : Escudero : A Squire.
+Guan (Coran, Glas.) : Hombre : A man.
+Guanigo : Cazuela de Barro : An Earthen vessel.
+Hara (Ana, Glas.) : Oveja : A Sheep.
+Mencey : El Rey : The King.
+Oche (Ahico, Glas.) : Mantera : A mantle.
+Sigone : Capitan : A Captain.
+Tano : Cebada : Barley.
+Xerios : Zapatos : Shoes.
+
+ALGUNAS DICCIONES DE LA LENGUA DE CANARIA.
+
+(Some words of the language of Canary.)
+
+COLUMN 1: CANARY.
+COLUMN 2: SPANISH.
+COLUMN 3: ENGLISH.
+
+Ahorac : Dios : God.
+Almogaron : Adoratorio : A Temple or place of worship.
+Amodagas : Varos-tostados : Poles hardened (by fire).
+Aramotanoque : Cebada : Barley.
+Aridaman : Cabra: A Goat.
+Carianas : Espuerta : A Rush or Palm-basket.
+Doramas : Narices : Nostrils.
+Gofio : Farina de cebada tostada : Flour of baked Barley.
+Guanarteme : El Rey : The King.
+Guaire : El Consejero : The Councillor.
+Magado : Garrote de Guerra : Poles or sticks used as weapons.
+Tahagan (Taharan, Glas.) : Oveja : A Sheep.
+Tamaranona : Carne Frita : Roasted or broiled meat.
+Tamarco : Camisa de pieles : A Garment or shirt of hides or skins.
+
+ALGUNAS DICCIONES DE LA LENGUA PALMESA.
+
+(Some words of the language of Palma.)
+
+COLUMN 1: PALMA.
+COLUMN 2: SPANISH.
+COLUMN 3: ENGLISH.
+
+Abora : Deos : God.
+Adijirja : Arroyo : A Rivulet.
+Asero : Lugar Fuerte : A Stronghold.
+Atinariva : Puerco : A Hog.
+Aguayan : Perro : A Dog.
+Mayantigo : Pedazo de Cielo : Heavenly.
+Tidote : Monte : A Hill.
+Tiguevite : Cabra : A Goat.
+Tigotan : Cielos : The Heavens.
+Yruene : El Diablo : The Devil.
+
+OF THE OTHER ISLANDS.
+
+ALGUNAS DICCIONES DE LA LENGUA DE FUERTEVENTURA Y LANZEROTA.
+
+(Some words of the language of Fortaventura and Lanzerota.)
+
+COLUMN 1: FUERTEVENTURA AND LANZEROTA.
+COLUMN 2: SPANISH.
+COLUMN 3: ENGLISH.
+
+Aho : Leche : Milk.
+Attaha : Hombre de Valor : A Valiant Man.
+Elecuenes : Adoratorio : A Place of devotion.
+Guanigo : Cazuela de Barro : An earthen vessel.
+Guapil : Sombrero : A Hat.
+Horbuy : Cuero : A Skin or Hide.
+Maxo (Ma, Glas.) : Zapatos : Shoes.
+Tabite : Tarro pequeno : A small earthen pan.
+Tamocen : Cebada : Barley.
+Tezezes : Varas de Acebucha : Poles of the wild olive tree.
+
+ALGUNAS DICCIONES DE LA LENGUA DEL HIERRO Y GOMERA.
+
+(Some words of the language of Ferro and Gomera.)
+
+COLUMN 1: FERRO AND GOMERA.
+COLUMN 2: SPANISH.
+COLUMN 3: ENGLISH.
+
+Aculan : Manteca : Butter.
+Achemen : Leche : Milk.
+Aemon : Agua : Water.
+Banot : Garrote de Guerra : War Clubs.
+Ganigo : Cazuela de Barro : An earthen vessel.
+Haran : Helocho : Furze.
+Fubaque : Reses gordas : Fat cattle.
+Guatativoa : Un convita : A gathering to a Banquet.
+Tahuyan : Bas quinas : A Petticoat of Skins.
+Tamasagues : Veras largas : Long Poles.
+
+GUANCHE BONE CAVE. AND REMARKS. MARINE BLOWING STONE.
+
+It was in the course of my enquiries for words of the Guanche language
+that I accidentally heard yesterday, from an old inhabitant, of the
+existence of a cave in the rocks, about 3 miles to the north-east of
+Santa Cruz, which it was impossible to enter, but which, when examined
+from the sea, could be observed to be full of bones. This cave, he said,
+was known to the old inhabitants by the name of La Cueva de los Guanches;
+and according to traditionary report it had been the burying-place of the
+original inhabitants of this island. Several English merchants of whom I
+made enquiries knew nothing of it, even by report, but the master of the
+hotel was aware of its existence and promised to procure me guides to it.
+Although this day was Sunday, yet, as I was to sail in the afternoon, the
+inducement was too strong to resist, and I started in a boat at 6 o'clock
+with Mr. Walker our surgeon, taking my geological hammer as I intended to
+return overland.
+
+When we had proceeded about a mile and a half from Santa Cruz I was
+astonished to hear, from the rocks on the shore, a loud roaring noise,
+and to see large clouds apparently of ascending smoke. I landed to
+ascertain the cause of this, and found it arose from one of those hollow
+rocks which are sometimes seen on our own coast and are known by various
+names, such as blowing stones, boiling kettles, etc. etc. I had however
+never seen one at all to be compared to this in size. It was formed by a
+hole in the rocks through which the water is first poured as the waves
+rush in; and then is partly driven out with a loud noise through a hole
+far up, and partly returns, in the form of spray, by the opening through
+which it was at first impelled. By assuming a proper position with regard
+to the sun a most beautiful rainbow is seen in this spray as it is dashed
+high into the air, and the whole is well worthy of a visit. Having
+collected some shells and geological specimens we again embarked for the
+cave.
+
+On reaching the spot we distinctly observed, from the shore, the mouths
+of two caves full of bones. As the Guanches were in the habit of
+embalming their dead I entertained hopes of obtaining from them a mummy,
+of which there are several preserved in the Canary Islands. Upon landing
+however I found that they were utterly inaccessible, being situated in a
+perpendicular rock about 150 feet above the level of high water mark, and
+a considerable distance beneath the summit of the cliff. I had indulged a
+hope of being able to swing into one of the caves by means of a rope
+suspended from the top, but, owing to a large rock which projects from
+above quite over their mouths, this would be very difficult. Several
+bones had been blown out of the apertures, which I collected and found
+them to have belonged to man, but otherwise displaying nothing
+remarkable.
+
+I can scarcely entertain a doubt but these caves really were the
+burying-places of the ancient Guanches, yet how they were approached I
+cannot conceive; probably there might have been an entrance to them from
+the interior of the country. I searched but my time was short and I could
+find no traces of such. An interesting question here remains to be solved
+and I trust some future traveller may be induced to attempt it.
+
+There is only one other supposition I could frame on this subject, and to
+this I am led from the fact of the bones lying so immediately in the
+caves' mouths. Could a party of the Guanches, when so oppressed and so
+cruelly treated by the Spaniards, have taken refuge by some means in
+these caverns, and afterwards, from their retreat being cut off, have
+found themselves unable to escape and have here perished miserably;
+looking out of the cavern to the last for that assistance they were never
+doomed to receive? If they had managed to enter these caves by a narrow
+pathway running along the face of the cliffs, which the Spaniards
+afterwards destroyed, such an occurrence might readily have taken place.
+
+Having completed my examination I dismissed the boat and walked back to
+Santa Cruz, from whence we sailed at five o'clock this evening.
+
+
+CHAPTER 2. TO BAHIA AND THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
+
+ATMOSPHERICAL PHENOMENON AT SEA.
+
+Nothing important occurred during the voyage from Tenerife to Bahia; but
+one atmospherical phenomenon I think is worthy at a future day of further
+enquiry.
+
+I remarked constantly, just at sunset, in these latitudes, that the
+eastern horizon was brilliantly illuminated with a kind of mock sunset.
+This in a short time disappeared, to be soon succeeded by another similar
+in character, but more faint. I observed at the same time, in the western
+horizon, the regular sunset, and then two appearances, like those seen in
+the east; perhaps this may be fully accounted for by a triple reflection,
+as in the common theory of the rainbow.
+
+LAND AT BAHIA.
+
+August 17.
+
+We came in sight of the coast of South America about noon, and dropped
+anchor in the harbour of Bahia at four P.M.; and about half an hour after
+I went on shore with Mr. Lushington, a person of the name of Wilson
+taking us in his boat: there was a slave in the boat, and, not knowing
+that he understood English, I asked Mr. Wilson several questions about
+slaves in general, and he gave me a good deal of information on this
+subject, mentioning among other things that the price of a good slave
+here varied from 90 to 100 pounds, he happened to state that the slaves
+were wretched in their own country, and that frequently large numbers
+were sacrificed to their gods. I never saw so fine a burst of natural
+indignation as the slave in the boat evinced at this statement; his lip
+curled up with scorn, his dark eye grew vividly bright, and his frame
+quivered as he made an impassioned reply in Portuguese; I could not
+understand all that he said, but caught enough to know the tenor of it,
+that "this was not the case; Englishmen or foreigners never visited his
+country, so how could they know." It was not so much what he said but the
+scornful bitterness of his manner that made an impression on me, not
+easily to be effaced.
+
+NIGHT WALK.
+
+I took a night walk in the country this evening and experienced those
+wild and undescribable feelings which accompany the first entrance into a
+rich tropical country. I had arrived just towards the close of the rainy
+season, when everything was in full verdure, and new to me. The luxuriant
+foliage expanding in magnificent variety, the brightness of the stars
+above, the dazzling brilliancy of the fireflies around me, the breeze
+laden with balmy smells, and the busy hum of insect life making the deep
+woods vocal, at first oppress the senses with a feeling of novelty and
+strangeness till the mind appears to hover between the realms of truth
+and falsehood.
+
+THE TOWN OF BAHIA.
+
+The town of Bahia looks very beautiful from the sea; but on entering you
+find it dreadfully filthy. The stench of the lower town is horrible. Even
+the President's palace is a dirty and wretched-looking building: his
+salary, I understand, is 600 pounds a year. By the last returns the
+population of the town was 120,000, 100,000 of whom were blacks. All the
+burdens here are carried by slaves as there are no carts and the breed of
+horses is small, being perfect ponies.
+
+The exports are cotton and sugar--the cotton chiefly to Liverpool, the
+sugar to all European countries but England. Their imports are English
+cotton goods and hardware, also various manufactured goods from Germany.
+The nuns are famed for the manufacture of artificial feathers and
+flowers.
+
+The fruit here is excellent, the oranges are particularly fine.
+
+The merchants in the town are principally English and German. There is no
+American house. Several have started but all who made the attempt have
+failed.
+
+You cannot penetrate any great distance into the interior as there are no
+roads but only little pathways through the woods. The Indians are
+frequently seen very near the town.
+
+STATE OF SOCIETY.
+
+This part of Brazil offered the curious spectacle of a great evil, which
+has been long suffered to exist and is now advancing, gradually yet
+surely, to that state which must entail inevitable destruction on the
+existing Government of the country. I allude to the immense slave
+population which, owing to a short-sighted policy, has been allowed to
+increase so rapidly from the frequent and numerous importations that at
+the present moment they are in the ratio of 10 to 1 to the white
+population, to whom they are also, individually, immensely superior in
+physical strength; the Brazilians being the most insignificant and feeble
+race of men I have ever yet seen.
+
+DANGERS FROM SLAVE POPULATION.
+
+The blacks are perfectly aware of their own power, and about two years
+ago had arranged a plan for seizing the town and murdering all the whites
+with the exception of foreigners; which miscarried only by the affair
+being discovered a few hours before it broke out. This plan was however
+so wisely and boldly conceived, both as a whole and in detail, that it
+alone affords the most conclusive evidence that the slave population in
+this country are by no means deficient either in mental powers or
+personal courage.
+
+The Brazilians themselves are aware of the danger which threatens them,
+and yet evince an extraordinary degree of supineness with regard to it.
+They have indeed framed certain regulations as to the slaves being all
+within their houses at an early hour of the evening, etc. etc., and these
+they deem sufficient for their protection; yet to an unprejudiced
+observer it would appear that, unless some much more effective measures
+are adopted, within a few years from the present time the whole of this
+fine country will be in the hands of the blacks: and indeed I think one
+would be justified in concluding that the moment which produces a person
+sufficiently intriguing again to stir up the slaves, and endowed with the
+firmness and talent necessary to conduct an emeute of this nature, will
+be the last of the Brazilian Empire.
+
+POLITICAL CONDITION OF THE STATE.
+
+It is evident from what I have before stated that the only hope the white
+population can reasonably entertain of retaining their present position
+must be in the most perfect union and concord amongst themselves, and
+that, when a unity of design and action ceases to exist between the
+different provinces, their fate is sealed. Yet this circumstance never
+appears to enter into their calculations; and at this instant each state
+is plotting its separation from the Empire. The inhabitants here openly
+state their intention of revolting and declaring their independence, and
+Sunday next is even mentioned as the day for the commencement of the
+rising.*
+
+(*Footnote. The revolt broke out on the 7th November 1837 but was
+suppressed the following month. Great alarm existed lest the Negro slaves
+should be induced to take their part likewise in the conflict between the
+contending factions. Annual Register for 1837.)
+
+It is really strange to one who stands by, a calm unconcerned spectator,
+to observe men hurried on by the violence of faction to their own certain
+destruction, and to behold them so entirely blinded by party spirit as
+not to see that danger which stares them so openly in the face, that a
+child could scarcely fail to detect it.
+
+The Slave Trade, though nominally abolished, is actively pursued here,
+eighty-three slaves having been landed just before my arrival, and
+another cargo during my stay.
+
+The slaves are not only a very superior race of men in point of physical
+powers, but, as far as my experience of their habits went, I found them
+very moral and honest. Their notions of religion were however curious.
+Several were Christians nominally, but their Christianity consisted in
+wearing a string of beads round the neck; and they seriously assured me
+that those who wore beads went up to heaven after death, and that those
+who did not went down under the waters.
+
+I talked to many of them about their own land. None had forgotten it, but
+they all expressed the most ardent desire to see it again. They call
+themselves captives, not slaves, and are very punctilious upon this
+point. They labour very hard here, generally in the town, paying their
+masters eighteen-pence a day, and keeping the rest of their earnings for
+themselves. The rate of labour must therefore be high; but they wear
+scarcely any clothes, and their subsistence, which is jerked beef and
+beans, costs but little. The slaves in the country are however all
+obliged to work on their owners' plantations.
+
+All the principal people in the town are concerned in the slave trade,
+and their chief wealth consists in the number of slaves they possess;
+therefore there is little chance of the trade being, for many years,
+totally abolished.
+
+With regard to the execution of the laws this country is much in the same
+state as certain parts of Ireland. Homicide, and attempts at homicide, by
+shooting, are frequent; but it is difficult, if not impossible, to
+convict the offenders, for he who renders himself conspicuous in
+prosecuting parties concerned in a murder assuredly gets shot at in his
+turn.
+
+IMPRESSIONS AND OBSERVATIONS AT SEA. REMARKS ON VOYAGE FROM BAHIA TO THE
+CAPE.
+
+August 25.
+
+Re-embarked in the Beagle and sailed for the Cape of Good Hope.
+
+September 10.
+
+We had yesterday and all last night a gale of wind, succeeded this day by
+a heavy fall of rain. The wind had raised a very high sea, but when the
+rain began to fall I heard the captain and several of the officers remark
+that the rain would lay the sea; for the result of their experience was,
+"that a fall of rain always beats the sea down." What they had stated
+would occur took place in this instance within two or three hours. This
+shows forcibly what great results a slight force, continued for a long
+time, will produce.
+
+September 15.
+
+Whilst standing on the deck of the Beagle this evening we remarked large
+luminous spots in the water. They appeared to be about 12 inches in
+circumference, were very numerous, and perfectly stationary. The light
+they emitted was phosphorescent, but far brighter than I had ever before
+witnessed; it was so vivid as to be distinctly visible for nearly a
+quarter of a mile.
+
+September 16.
+
+We saw this morning an immense number of fin-backed whales, some of which
+were quite close to the vessel. In the course of half an hour I counted
+thirty of them. Could they have been feeding on the phosphorescent
+animals we saw last night?
+
+We are today about 600 miles from the Cape, and there is a strange
+discordance amongst the elements. From the south-west comes a long and
+heavy swell; a strong breeze is blowing from the east, and threatening
+clouds spring upwards from the north. These omens have a meaning. Down to
+the southward, somewhere off Cape Horn, there blows a furious gale. The
+wind will draw round shortly to the northward. That is the interpretation
+and the reading.
+
+A swell like this one can only witness off the Cape of Good Hope. It was
+to me a novel and magnificent sight. Uniform and lofty ridges of waves
+advancing in rapid succession, and yet with so regular and undisturbed a
+motion that one might easily fancy these great walls of water to be
+stationary: yet onward they moved in uniform and martial order; whilst as
+the ship rose upon their crests she seemed to hover for a moment over the
+ocean in mid air. And now the wind drew round to the northward and it
+blew almost a gale. The vessel felt its power and bent before it. It was
+beautiful to watch the process of hand-reefing topsails and making the
+vessel snug--the ready obedience to the word of command and the noiseless
+discipline with which each duty was fulfilled. First had the men
+clustered on the rigging like bees; then at the word to lay out they
+fearlessly extended themselves along the yard-arm, and whilst they took
+in the reefs the ship pitched and rolled so heavily that one felt anxious
+for their safety: but there they swung securely between high heaven and
+the sea.
+
+SEA-BIRDS.
+
+The sea-birds held their holiday in the stormy gale. The lordly and
+graceful Albatross, whose motion is a very melody, swept screaming by
+upon the blast. The smaller Cape pigeons followed us fast, passing and
+repassing across the vessel's track. At last one of them spies a fragment
+on the waters, which has been thrown overboard: a moment it hovers above,
+then plunges down. But the other birds have seen it too; and all,
+pouncing on the spot, move their wings confusedly and seem to run along
+the waters with a rapid and eager motion. Now is there discord wild
+amongst them. A screaming and diving, swimming and running, mingled with
+a chattering noise. No sooner does one gain the morsel than another tears
+it from him. Who will be the victor here? The Albatross; for he sweeps
+triumphantly over all, swoops down, and with a scream scares off the
+timid little multitude; whilst high above his head he holds his arching
+wings; and now in pride and beauty he sits upon the waters and, drifting
+fast astern, gradually fades in the twilight.
+
+What wonder that a sailor is superstitious! Separated in early youth from
+his home ere he has forgotten the ghost stories of childhood, and whilst
+the young and simple heart still loves to dwell upon the marvellous, he
+is placed in such scenes as these: in the dark night, amidst the din of
+waves and storms, he hears wild shrieks upon the air, and by him float
+huge forms, dim and mysterious, from which fancy is prone to build
+strange phantoms; and oft from aged sailors he gathers legends and
+wondrous tales suited to his calling; whilst the narrator's mysterious
+tone and earnest voice and manner attest how firmly he himself believes
+the story.
+
+ARRIVAL AT THE CAPE. HIRE THE LYNHER.
+
+September 21.
+
+We came in sight of land yesterday evening, and spent the greater part of
+the day in beating up False Bay to Simonstown, where we arrived about
+half-past six P.M. I instantly landed in a shore-boat with Lieutenant
+Lushington and Mr. Walker; and, having first hurried to Admiral Sir P.
+Campbell with some letters I had to him, we forthwith started to ride to
+Cape Town. Finding that a vessel for our expedition could be procured
+here more readily and economically than at Swan River I determined on
+making this my point of departure, and after diligent enquiry I finally
+hired the Lynher, a schooner of about 140 tons, Henry Browse master, and
+subsequently found every reason to be satisfied, both with the little
+vessel and her commander.
+
+EQUIPMENT AND PLANS. SAIL FOR HANOVER BAY.
+
+My time was now wholly occupied in completing the preparations for our
+future proceedings. I increased my party by a few additional hands of
+good character, and thought myself fortunate in engaging amongst them
+Thomas Ruston, a seaman who had already served on the Australian coast
+under Captain King. On the 12th October I with great difficulty got my
+affairs at Cape Town so arranged as to be able to embark in the evening,
+and on the morning of the 13th we hove anchor and made sail.
+
+The party now embarked consisted of:
+
+Lieutenant Grey.
+Lieutenant Lushington.
+Mr. Walker, our Surgeon.
+Mr. Powell, Surgeon.
+Corporal R. Auger, Corporal John Coles, and Private Mustard of the Corps
+of Sappers and Miners.
+J.C. Cox, a Stock-Keeper.
+Thomas Ruston, a Sailor who had been on the coast of Australia in the
+Mermaid with Captain King.
+Evan Edwards, a Sailor.
+Henry Williams and R. Inglesby, Shoemakers.
+
+There were besides on board a captain, a mate, seven men, and a boy.
+
+The livestock I took from the Cape consisted altogether of thirty-one
+sheep, nineteen goats, and six dogs. The dogs were as follows: one
+greyhound; one dog bred between a greyhound and a foxhound; one between a
+greyhound and a sheepdog; a bull-terrier; a Cape wolf-dog; and a useful
+nondescript mongrel.
+
+RE-EMBARKATION FOR HANOVER BAY.
+
+The plan that I had finally resolved on adopting was:
+
+To proceed in the first instance to Hanover Bay, there to select a good
+spot on which to form a temporary encampment; and, having landed the
+stock, to despatch Lieutenant Lushington with Cox and Williams in the
+vessel to Timor for ponies.
+
+PLANS ON LANDING.
+
+I selected Cox and Williams for this service because the former was used
+to the management of horses on board vessels, and the latter
+understanding Dutch was well calculated to act as interpreter at Timor.
+During their absence I intended to practise the party in making short
+explorations in different directions.
+
+Upon the return of the vessel I intended to move the whole party to some
+convenient spot to be chosen during their absence, then to advance,
+attended only by Coles, and to fix upon the next spot on our route which
+I designed to halt at. This plan I intended to adhere to as much as
+possible throughout the whole expedition, namely, never to move the party
+from one place of halt until I had chosen the next one. We bore with us
+tools and instruments of every description; so that we not only were
+fully capable of maintaining ourselves but could literally, if occasion
+had required it, have founded the nucleus of a colony.
+
+Great then was my joy when all my preparations were completed and I felt
+the vessel gliding swiftly from Table Bay into that vast ocean at the
+other extremity of which lay the land I so longed to see, and to which I
+was now bound with the ardent hope of opening the way for the conversion
+of a barren wilderness into a fertile garden.
+
+Part of my plan was not only to introduce all useful animals that I
+possibly could into this part of Australia, but also the most valuable
+plants of every description. For this purpose, a collection had been made
+at Tenerife by Mr. Walker, under my direction, and another in South
+America,* including the seeds of the cotton plant. From the Cape and from
+England I had also procured other useful plants, and had planned that the
+vessel, on quitting Timor with the horses, should be filled in every
+vacant space with young cocoa-nut trees and other fruits, together with
+useful animals such as goats and sheep, in addition to the stock we
+conveyed from the Cape.
+
+(*Footnote. We had been able to introduce several useful plants into the
+Cape; amongst others the South American Yam, which, owing to the quality
+of the potatoes and their great fluctuations in price, will eventually be
+very serviceable to the colonists, more especially for the use of
+whalers.)
+
+
+CHAPTER 3. FROM THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE TO HANOVER BAY.
+
+NATURAL HISTORY.
+
+FORSTER'S PACHYPTILA (Pachyptila vittata.)
+
+October 16.
+
+I shot a female petrel; it had a nail planted in the heel, but no thumb;
+the bill was hooked at the end, the extremity of which seemed to consist
+of a distinct piece, articulated with the remainder; the nostrils were
+united, and formed a tube laid on the back of the upper mandible, hence
+it belonged to the family of Petrels (Procellariae.)
+
+Its temperature was 94 degrees.
+Length from tip to tip of wing, 2 feet 3 inches.
+Length from tip of beak to tip of tail, 1 foot 2.4 inches.
+Length from root to tip of tail, 4 inches.
+Length of beak, 1.45 inches.
+Length of foot, 1.55 inches.
+Breadth across body, 2.3 inches.
+
+Colour of beak and legs black; body white underneath; general colour
+above, a light bluish slate, which grows darker in the head and wing
+covers; tail tipped with black; the four first wing feathers tinged with
+black.
+
+CAPE PIGEONS.
+
+I also shot this afternoon three Cape pigeons (Procellaria capensis)
+white underneath, spotted black and white above.
+
+FIRST SPECIMEN--Female.
+
+Temperature, 98 1/2 degrees.
+Length from tip to tip of wing, 2 feet 11.3 inches.
+Length from tip of tail to tip of beak, 1 foot 6 inches.
+Length from tip of beak, 1.5 inches.
+Length from root to tip of tail,4.1 inches.
+Length of foot, 2.3 inches.
+Breadth across body, 3.2 inches.
+
+SECOND SPECIMEN.
+
+Length from tip to tip of wing, 2 feet 5 inches.
+Length from tip of tail to tip of beak, 1 foot 5 inches.
+Length from tip of beak, 1.5 inches.
+Length from root to tip of tail, 4 inches.
+Length of foot, 2.3 inches.
+Breadth across body, 3 inches.
+
+THIRD SPECIMEN--Female.
+
+Length from tip to tip of wing, 2 feet 5.5 inches.
+Length from tip of tail to tip of beak, 1 foot 4.6 inches.
+Length from tip of beak, 1.3 inches.
+Length from root to tip of tail, 4.6 inches.
+Length of foot, 2.2 inches.
+Breadth across body, 3.4 inches.
+
+Two species of insects were found in these Cape pigeons.
+
+The only difference I have been able to observe between the male and
+female of these birds is, that the male has the black spots of rather a
+deeper hue.
+
+October 21. Latitude 38 degrees 15 south; longitude 35 degrees 53 minutes
+east.
+
+From a variety of observations I am able to bear testimony to the
+correctness of a fact that has been before noticed, namely, that the
+Medusae invariably live in families. This single circumstance is
+remarkable in connection with other points of natural history since it
+will tend to explain the reason of certain classes of Petrels
+(Procellariae) only visiting particular parts of the ocean.
+
+Sunday October 22. Latitude 37 degrees 44 minutes south; longitude 38
+degrees 00 east.
+
+Caught two small animals, one closely resembling a small shrimp (Penaeus)
+but having the head covered with a most beautiful purple shield. I kept
+this alive in a jug. The other in size and appearance exactly like a
+purple grape (Hyalea) with a greenish tinge at one extremity surrounding
+an aperture, and a distinct aperture at the other extremity. It was 0.4
+inches in diameter, and had the power of emitting a phosphorescent light.
+I have since this period found several varieties of this animal; which,
+when it expands itself, closely resembles an insect, and has little
+wings. Further on will be found a sketch of these animals in their
+expanded state. (See illustration Hyalea figure 1.)
+
+THE ALBATROSS (Diomedea exulans).
+
+We caught four of these birds yesterday, from which I made the following
+measurements:
+
+FIRST SPECIMEN. Weight, 19 1/2 pounds.
+
+Length from tip of wing to tip of wing, 10 feet 2 inches.
+Length from tip of beak to tip of tail, 4 feet 0.5 inches.
+Length of beak, 6.8 inches.
+Length from root to tip of tail, 10.0 inches.
+Length of foot, 7.6 inches.
+Length of wing, 4 feet 8 inches.
+Height from ground, 2 feet 10 inches.
+Temperature 98 degrees, the thermometer placed under the tongue during
+life. These measurements were all made during the lifetime of the bird.
+
+SECOND SPECIMEN. Weight, 15 1/2 pounds.
+
+Length from tip of wing to tip of wing, 10 feet.
+Length from tip of beak to tip of tail, 3 feet 11 inches.
+Length of beak, 6.6 inches.
+Height from ground to top of head, 2 feet 4 inches.
+Temperature 98 degrees.
+
+THIRD SPECIMEN. The largest bird of the kind I have hitherto seen.
+
+Length from tip of wing to tip of wing, 10 feet 8 inches.
+Length from tip of beak to tip of tail, 4 feet 6 inches.
+Breadth across the body, 8 inches.
+Length of bill, 6.7 inches.
+Length of foot, 7.5 inches.
+
+FOURTH SPECIMEN. The same size as the second.
+
+Length of beak, 6.3 inches.
+Length of foot, 6.9 inches.
+
+The beak of each of these birds during lifetime was of a beautiful light
+rose colour; their voice was something like that of a goose, but rather
+louder, deeper, and hoarser. If during life the beak was pressed with the
+finger it became quite white, and it was not until the pressure had for
+some time been removed that the colour returned. The specimens I have
+described above (all males) were quite white underneath; the white above
+being speckled with black spots and streaks, sometimes changing to a
+brownish hue; the wings were black. We obtained also a female bird with
+the following measurements, which has been described as a distinct
+species:
+
+Length from tip to tip of wing, 7 feet 2 inches.
+Length from tip of tail to tip of beak, 3 feet 5.5 inches.
+Length from root to tip of tail, 9 inches.
+Length of beak, 4.5 inches.
+Length of foot, 5 inches.
+
+Legs pale flesh colour; beak, black, with a brown-coloured streak on each
+side of the lower mandible; the whole body of a dirty black colour,
+acquiring a lighter tinge underneath.
+
+October 30.
+
+I shot two male specimens of this last bird: the only distinction between
+them and the female was that they were rather smaller, and had a white
+streak instead of a light brown one on each side of the lower mandible.
+
+FIRST SPECIMEN--Male. Weight, 5 1/2 pounds.
+
+Length from tip of wing to tip of wing 6 feet 6 inches.
+Length from tip of beak to tip of tail, 2 feet 6 inches.
+Length from root to tip of tail, 11 inches.
+Length from root to tip of beak, 4 inches.
+Length from root to tip of foot, 5 inches.
+Length from root to tip of wing, 2 feet 10 inches.
+
+SECOND SPECIMEN--Male. Weight 7 pounds.
+
+Length from tip to tip of wing, 6 feet 9 inches.
+Length from tip of beak to tip of tail, 2 feet 10 inches.
+Length of tail, 10.6 inches.
+Length of beak, 4.7 inches.
+Length of foot, 5 inches.
+Length of wing, 3 feet.
+
+All the three specimens of this species had a distinct although minute
+claw, representing a thumb, upon one leg, thus apparently forming a link
+between the genus Procellaria and the genus Diomedea.
+
+PACHYPTILA VITTATA.
+
+Ash-grey above; white in the under parts; quills, tail-feathers at the
+tip, and band on the wings when expanded, brownish-black.
+
+Length from tip to tip of wing, 2 feet.
+Length from tip of beak to tip of tail, 10 inches.
+Length from root to tip of tail, 4.3 inches.
+Length of beak, 1 inch.
+Length of foot, 1.5 inches.
+Length of wing, 10.5 inches.
+
+This bird is of the same species as the one I procured on the 16th of
+October. I shot it about nine A.M. They are very numerous in these
+latitudes; their flight resembles much that of a snipe. The name by which
+they are known to the sailors is the whale-bird; they appear to take
+their food upon the wing, for I have never yet seen them sit upon the
+waters even for a single second, although I have observed them
+frequently, and at all hours; but night and day they hurry on with the
+same restless, rapid flight, sometimes going in large flocks; and I have
+never upon shore seen so many birds assembled upon a few square miles as
+I have sometimes here observed in the open ocean. I never heard them
+utter any cry or sound.
+
+I saw but few Cape pigeons (Procellaria capensis) after passing the 40th
+degree of longitude, and neither Cape pigeons nor albatrosses after
+passing the 95th degree of longitude, and 32nd parallel of latitude. I
+have never seen a petrel or bird of the family Longipennes discharge its
+oily fluid at anyone who worried or attacked it; but have almost
+invariably seen it involuntarily eject it,when hurt or frightened.
+
+THE ALBATROSS.
+
+November 9.
+
+I caught four albatrosses with a fishing-line; one of them was a female,
+the first I had seen. I observed no marked difference between her and
+males of the same species, for I have found them vary much in the dark
+shades upon their feathers.
+
+I have yet found no bird of this family whose foot was not longer than
+its beak.
+
+DIOMEDEA EXULANS--Female.
+
+Length from tip of wing to tip of wing,10 feet 10 inches.
+Length from tip of wing, 4 feet 10 inches.
+From tip of beak to tip of tail, 4 feet 9 inches.
+Length of beak, 7.2 inches.
+Length of tail, 9 inches.
+Length of foot, 7.5 inches.
+
+The black and brown marks on this bird were darker than the corresponding
+ones on the males.
+
+I am inclined to think that the chief characteristic that distinguishes
+the females from the males in the family Longipennes is their greater
+size: my opinion is grounded upon the following tables, drawn up from
+careful measurements, made by myself.
+
+(@@@TABLE OF FAMILY LONGIPENNES)
+
+In each of these three instances the female is larger than the males;
+they are the only ones I am able to adduce which bear upon this point.
+
+November 11. South latitude 30 degrees 47 minutes; east longitude 100
+degrees 21 minutes 15 seconds.
+
+Being a calm, I gave the men leave to bathe this afternoon, and was one
+of the first overboard myself. Within an hour and a half after we had
+done bathing, a cry of a shark was raised, and in truth there was the
+monster (the first we had seen). I mention this fact as tending to
+support what I have often heard stated, namely, that a shark's sense of
+smell is so keen that, if men ever bathe in seas where they are found, a
+shark is almost sure to appear directly afterwards. This really occurred
+in the present instance.
+
+We repeatedly caught many little animals which I believe are the VELELLA
+of Lamarck. They consist of a flat oval cartilage, on which they float;
+there is a mouth in the inferior surface of this surrounded with many
+tentacula; on its superior surface is a crest which remains above water,
+and the wind blowing against it turns the animal round; they thus swim
+with a rotatory motion; the crest is placed obliquely to the length of
+the oval cartilage, and this position of it perhaps assists in producing
+the motion; the crest is perfectly transparent, but marked with little
+striae; the oval cartilage is marked with concentric striae, which
+indicate the lines of its growth; in some this cartilage is transparent,
+in others quite blue.
+
+November 12. South latitude 30 degrees 11; east longitude 100 degrees 31
+minutes 30 seconds.
+
+We caught several beautiful animals this day, of the Medusae kind
+(Diphya). (See Illustration 3 Diphya, Sp.)
+
+Figure 1 represents a section through one of them, the size of life: the
+bag (1) is of a delicate bright amber colour. The long tentacula issuing
+out are upwards of a foot in length and of a bright flesh colour.
+
+(Illustration 3)
+
+Figure 2 is a section across the animal.
+
+Figure 3 represents the mouth of the large opening at c, d, as if one was
+looking down into it.
+
+Figure 4 upper part; Figure 5 lower; and Figure 6 the perfect animal.
+
+Between c d apparently lay the entrance to its mouth; in the little bag
+marked (3) its long tentacula were concealed, and below these lay a
+little gut marked (4) which communicated with the point (L) by a small
+canal: (1) was its swimming apparatus, and by alternate contractions and
+expansions of this, it took in and expelled water, and thus acquired a
+rapid motion, the pointed end (L) moving forwards.
+
+Its length was 1.7 inches.
+Breadth, 0.7 inches.
+Thickness, 0.35 inches.
+Temperature the same as the water, 65 degrees Fahrenheit.
+
+The sketch Illustration 4 Diphya, Sp. gives a faint idea of the most
+beautiful animal of this kind which I have ever seen. It was so delicate
+that, with the slightest touch, portions of it came off, hence the
+specimen we obtained is I fear useless. The body consisted only of a
+central canal, to which were attached a number of gelatinous bags, with
+large lateral openings, so large that other zoophytes were caught in
+them, and apparently annoyed the animal; who continued throwing water out
+until it expelled them. The whole was surmounted by a number of the most
+beautiful rose-coloured tentacula: I counted eleven on it, and found four
+more that were torn off, but there may have been more. Its top, when
+looked into closely, resembled some of the sea anemones; and inside of
+the large bright orange-coloured tentacula were placed circular rows of
+smaller ones. Its body was quite transparent, with the exception of the
+central canal, which was of a milk-white colour, and terminated in a
+small sac of the same hue.
+
+It moved in a direction opposite to the tentacula, by taking in water at
+the lateral openings of the bags, in the position in which it is
+represented; then bending these towards the tentacula, and expelling it
+with great violence.
+
+Temperature the same as the water, 65 degrees Fahrenheit.
+
+Length of body (to tentacula from root of tail-like canal) 1.8 inches.
+Length of tentacula, 1.2 inches.
+Length of tail-like canal, 0.45 inches.
+Breadth, 1.1 inches.
+Thickness, 0.8 inches.
+
+Long tentacula, flesh-coloured; large tentacula, rose-coloured; lateral
+bags, tinged with clear amber; the rest of the animal perfectly
+transparent.
+
+We this evening caught several curious little animals (Clio ?) which when
+taken out of the water appeared like small balls of the same matter as
+that of which a slug is composed. Presently a little head peered out,
+then the body expanded itself, and finally two little things like wings
+were spread forth, formed of a fine membrane; they moved these very
+rapidly, and swam with great velocity.
+
+We caught several small crabs, and two kinds of shells, of a beautiful
+purple colour. (Janthina exigua.) These were very small; I have preserved
+several of them.
+
+Figures 1, 2, and 3 represent different views of an animal (Salpa)
+slightly electrical, that we caught this evening. Figure 1 is its
+appearance, one side being up; Figure 2 when the other side is turned up;
+Figure 3 is the side view of it.
+
+I have never before seen one of the kind electrical. Temperature the same
+as the water, 65 degrees Fahrenheit.
+
+Length, 1.5 inches.
+Breadth, 0.6 inches.
+Thickness, 0.3 inches.
+
+Figure 1. The intestinal canal terminates in a little coloured bag,
+generally of a bluish tinge; there is an opening at each extremity, one a
+little to the left of the little bag, the other, as shown in Figures 3
+and 1.
+
+November 13. Latitude 30 degrees 7 minutes south; longitude 100 degrees
+50 minutes 10 seconds east.
+
+Figure 1. Represents a little shell (Hyalea) which was caught this day.
+
+Figure 2. One of the tentacula of the animal I imagine to be the
+Physsophora rosacea. The point which is seen obtruding at the base
+resembles a little nerve; it runs the whole way down the tentacula.
+
+Figure 3. A little shrimp-like animal (Erichthus vitreus) caught on the
+14th November, latitude 29 degrees 26 minutes south; longitude 101
+degrees 32 minutes east. Its head was protected by a shield, such as is
+shown in the figure.
+
+We caught this day several other Acalepha, two of which were of the
+wonderful genus DIPHYA. I yesterday drew a coloured figure of the lower
+part of one of these animals.
+
+This animal in its perfect state (such as we found it in today) consists
+of two individuals, the part of one being encased in a cavity of the
+other. Figures 4 and 5 Illustration 4 will give a correct idea of the way
+in which this junction is effected. The least motion separates these two
+parts, and each forms a perfect animal, which performs all the functions
+of life. This is the more extraordinary, as the containing animal is
+furnished with an organ not possessed by the contained, and which in
+their united state is used by both. Figure 5. From the little bag (f) at
+the bottom of the cavity (g) the receiver produces a chaplet, which
+traverses the canal in the received marked (2) in Figure 6, and which is
+here drawn the size of life, was sometimes expanded to the length of one
+foot eight inches. This organ, according to M. Cuvier, is composed of
+ovaries, tentacula, and suckers.
+
+The swimming apparatus, marked (1) and (4) in Figure 6, act
+simultaneously; they are of a bright amber colour, and their mouth (a)
+and (h) are closed with little valves, nearly invisible even when in
+motion; the points round their upper aperture seem to form the hinges for
+these. In twenty seconds I counted seventy expansions and dilatations of
+this apparatus. The chaplet and the bag that holds it are flesh-coloured;
+the rest of the body is gelatinous and diaphanous. They live in families,
+and swim with great rapidity in the same manner as the other Acalepha.
+
+Caught also shells and crabs of the same kind as yesterday.
+
+November 14. Latitude 29 degrees 26 minutes south; longitude 101 degrees
+2 minutes east.
+
+Physsophora rosacea, Cuvier, see below. We caught another animal of the
+same kind as the one taken on the 12th of November, and figured in
+Illustration 7. It was so delicate that I did not measure it for fear of
+its falling to pieces, but it appeared to be exactly the same size as the
+former one.
+
+Its circle of large tentacula were of a bright pink, and were fifteen in
+number; inside this circle was a smaller one of the same number of
+shorter tentacula, which were not quite so bright a pink colour; in the
+centre of these were placed organs of a very extraordinary nature,
+apparently quite round, and not thicker than the very finest silk; they
+were arranged exactly in the form of a corkscrew, and from the beauty of
+their mechanism, the animal could press fold against fold, and thus
+render them less than a quarter of an inch in length, and I watched it
+almost instantaneously expand them to the length of nine inches. After
+having observed the animal closely for an hour I am writing this with it
+before me, alive in a large glass bottle of salt water, and measuring
+what I put down. The manner in which it expands these organs is by first
+uncoiling those folds nearest the body, and afterwards those most remote;
+so that when folded up it looks like a corkscrew with the folds pressed
+close together, and when expanded, like a long straight thin bit of
+flesh-coloured silk, with a little corkscrew of the same material at the
+end. The larger tentacula are shaped like the trunk of an elephant, and
+their extremity is furnished with a very delicate organ with which they
+can catch anything, and, if touched, they instantly turn some of these
+tentacula, which they have the power of moving in any direction, to the
+point so touched. They are not electrical: the lateral bags have a slight
+tinge of a bright amber colour. These animals sustain themselves in the
+water by means of the little bag marked (a) in the figure, which floats
+on the surface full of air, they there swim in the manner before
+described. I afterwards observed very minute globules, or lumps, in the
+long silk-like tentacula. When expanded these were very distinct.
+
+Latitude 29 degrees 26 minutes south; longitude 101 degrees 32 minutes
+east.
+
+We caught several small shells (Janthina exigua) this afternoon:
+Illustration 9 represents one of them, with the string of air bubbles
+attached, by means of which they swim on the water. They appear not to be
+able to free themselves from this mass of bubbles: every shell I have yet
+found floating in the Indian Ocean possesses these bubbles in a greater
+or less degree; they were of a purple colour. I have seen the common
+garden snail in England emit a nearly similar consistency: they also emit
+a blue or purple liquid, which colours anything it touches.
+
+The animals of the barnacles (Pentalasmis) attached to these shells
+assume their purple colours, while the shell remains nearly pure white.
+
+This afternoon we caught an animal (Glaucus, Illustration 10) I had not
+before seen. It seemed to represent the order reptilia in the Mollusca,
+being sluggish in movement, its eyes distinct, sensitive to the touch,
+its head much resembling a lizard in appearance, and having a very strong
+unpleasant smell when taken out of the water. During the hour I observed
+it in a bucket it remained sluggishly floating on the top, and
+occasionally swimming by moving its arms slowly along the surface. The
+first three that I saw pass the vessel I imagined to be feathers floating
+on the water.
+
+Its description is as follows:
+
+Length from head to tail, a c 1.8 inches.
+Length from head to root of tail, a b 0.85 inches.
+Length from head to first arm 0.2 inches.
+Length from head to second arm 0.45 inches.
+Length from head to third arm 0.7 inches.
+
+1st arm.
+From centre of back to end of round part, d e 0.3 inches.
+From e to the end of short tentacula, e f 0.3 inches.
+Ditto to long ditto, e g 0.75 inches.
+Diameter of round part and attached tentacula 0.4 inches.
+
+2nd arm.
+From centre of back to end of tentacula. 0.4 inches.
+
+3rd arm, do. do. 0.25 inches.
+Breadth of body between the two first arms 0.13 inches.
+Thickness 0.25 inches.
+
+General colour of body, indigo blue, of a darkish tinge; down the centre
+of the back a white streak, terminating at the root of the tail; sides
+blue, tail blue, quite white underneath, its belly altogether resembling
+that of a frog; tail tapering to a point.
+
+1st arm. 26 tentacula attached to the rounded paddle-shaped part of this
+arm, the centre tentacle more than twice the length of the others. These
+tentacula were so delicate that at the slightest touch they fell off.
+Those nearest the body were so small as to be almost imperceptible,
+gradually increasing in length as they approach the centre, and then
+decreasing to the other side. Centre of paddle-shaped part white,
+tentacula blue and white, fringed with dark blue at the extremity.
+
+2nd arm. 18 tentacula to this, centre ones the largest. Same colour as
+first arm.
+
+3rd arm. 12 tentacula, not forming such a regular circle as on the two
+first arms, and apparently issuing directly from a very short limb
+attached to the body.
+
+The general appearance of the skin was that of a frog. It had the power
+of contracting itself considerably.
+
+Caught a slug-like animal (Holothuria) this evening, or rather more
+closely resembling a caterpillar.
+
+Length from head to root of tail 0.7 inches.
+Length of tail (or rather gelatinous protuberance) 0.25 inches.
+Breadth (broadest part at root of tail) 0.22 inches.
+Narrowest part (near head) 0.15 inches.
+Length of head 0.12 inches.
+
+Head of light red colour, mouth apparent, motion of head like a
+caterpillar's when touched, shape cylindrical, body gelatinous,
+intestines apparent and full.
+
+November 16. Longitude 102 degrees 40 minutes east; latitude 28 degrees 5
+to 6 minutes south.
+
+Since we have passed the 95th parallel of longitude, and 32nd of latitude
+up to the present moment we have been out of the region of birds, for
+during the whole of this period I have seen but two, one of which, a
+Petrel, has this moment visited us. We have however seen more
+Sea-jellies, Acalepha and Mollusca than before, and those of a much more
+beautiful kind. Thus nature has made up for the deficiency of one tribe
+of animals by the profuseness with which she has distributed another.
+
+November 18. Latitude 26 degrees 57 minutes south; longitude 105 degrees
+22 minutes east.
+
+We caught a crustaceous animal (Phyllosoma, see Illustration 11) which
+was perfectly transparent; it was furnished with twelve legs on what I
+considered the hinder part of its body, and four antennae in front, which
+have their tips of a bright pink colour, and two eye peduncles by their
+side, which terminate in little bags containing some blue matter (their
+eyes). It was furnished also with two legs underneath. These are just
+shown in the figure near the centre of the body, and between those
+underneath the insect there was a slight projection, with two little
+lumps on each side. In this projecting part there appeared to be an
+opening. When it was taken out of the water it stood upright on its legs
+and crawled a little like a large beetle, but soon died. In the water it
+swam with the legs, and the last joint appeared to be feathered. It will
+be seen that there is a great irregularity in the position of the legs of
+this insect. The specimen appeared to me to be in some respects
+imperfect; but I figured it exactly as it was, without blindly guessing
+at its perfect state. It was not thicker than the thinnest wafer. The
+back was marked with curved lines, exactly in the manner I have
+represented. It shrank instantly when touched. The two last joints of the
+long legs were furnished with thorn-like spikes.
+
+Length of tail 0.37 inches.
+of the body 0.2 inches.
+of the thorax and head 0.3 inches.
+of the entire animal 1.4 inches.
+Breadth of body 0.62 inches.
+Ditto of thorax 0.51 inches.
+Length of third leg 1.9 inches.
+Length of second leg 1.7 inches.
+Length of hindermost leg 0.6 inches.
+Length of eyes, peduncles 0.4 inches.
+
+We caught a second animal of exactly the same size as the one figured,
+but apparently much more perfect. Each of its tentacula terminates in a
+small feathering tip when it is in the water, like the little figures at
+the side, and by the help of which they swim; these have a horny feel to
+the touch, are destitute of smell, and look like a transparent scale when
+they lie in your hand.
+
+We also caught this day some little transparent shells (Cuvieria) of a
+cylindrical form, and blunt at the end; they put out two little fins with
+which they swam.
+
+I was unfortunately too unwell this day to describe all the other
+specimens we caught, which were numerous. The sea was full of small
+acalepha, and in the midst of a shoal of these a whale was seen.
+
+November 19. Latitude 25 degrees 50 minutes south; longitude 106 degrees
+22 minutes east.
+
+Birds first re-appeared again. I saw a large flock of two kinds, but was
+not near enough to ascertain what they were. I have before noted the fact
+that almost at the exact point where the southern birds of the family
+Longipennes disappeared those sea-jellies (acalepha) which have the power
+of stinging, began to show themselves; previously to our passing this
+point I had not seen one: I saw several however today at no great
+distance from this flock of birds.
+
+We saw float by this afternoon one of the acalepha, apparently about two
+feet long and shaped generally like a water snake; its tail had fins like
+that of an eel, of a purplish tinge; I could distinctly see its head and
+various vessels in its interior for it was quite transparent. We had no
+net ready but threw a stick with a piece of string attached to it, the
+string passed under it but in pulling up cut through it as though it had
+been jelly.
+
+Caught an animal (Cymothoa) shaped exactly like a woodlouse:
+
+Length 0.4 inches.
+Length of antennae 0.15 inches.
+Breadth of body 0.12 inches.
+
+It had six legs, and a tail-like fin behind on each side, and nine rings
+on its back so that it could roll itself almost into a ball, these rings
+extended no farther than from its head to within 0.12 inches of its
+hinder extremity; colour very pale blue down the back, bright prussian
+blue on each side; it crawled about when taken out of the water, and
+lived for some time; its fins, or fin-like legs, when it thus crawled
+about, were folded under its tail; eyes distinct.
+
+MOLLUSCA.
+
+November 20. Latitude 25 degrees 14 minutes south; longitude 106 degrees
+49 minutes east.
+
+A shell, Janthina exigua, was caught this evening, 8 hours 30 minutes
+P.M.; when brought directly out of the water into a room the temperature
+of the animal was 80 degrees 5'; of room 76 degrees; colour, dark violet
+purple over half the opening and lower part of the shell, so that it
+gives the animal the appearance of having been upon a purple-coloured
+place; this colour then dies gradually away, and in the smallest whorl of
+the shell becomes almost white. They had the power of emitting drops of a
+violet colour, and when put into spirits a great quantity of this issued
+from the mouth of the shells. We had one evening before caught a pair of
+shells of the same species, but much smaller, at exactly the same hour;
+in both instances each pair were caught at the same haul of the net.
+
+November 23. Latitude 21 degrees 43 minutes south; longitude 109 degrees
+43 east. 8 1/2 P.M.
+
+FLYING FISH.
+
+A flying-fish (Exocetus) flew on board. Its temperature was 74 degrees.
+The colour of its iris was black.
+
+Length from mouth to end of curve between forks of tail 10 inches.
+From mouth to commencement of wing-like fin 2.7 inches.
+Length of wing fin 6.7 inches.
+of dorsal fin 2.0 inches.
+of pectoral fin 2.2 inches.
+of anal fin 1.3 inches.
+of upper fork of tail 2.2 inches.
+of lower ditto 3.2 inches.
+Length from mouth to end of gill 2.2 inches.
+Breadth of wing fin 6 inches.
+13 spines in each of these wings.
+Breadth between eyes 0.11 inches.
+Depth of fish 1.6 inches.
+Breadth of thickness 1.6 inches.
+Diameter of the eye 0.65 inches.
+
+Under-jaw projecting; sides, pale green; back, blackish-green; belly,
+white; five first spines in wing fin, greenish; others white; wing-fin
+dark green with a transparent band running nearly up the centre from the
+back; pectoral fin, transparent, with a dark green spot, nearly an inch
+square, about the centre of its lowest extremity; tail, dark green, edges
+light.
+
+November 26. Latitude 16 degrees 32 south; longitude 117 degrees east.
+
+After crossing about the 22nd parallel of south latitude we fairly
+entered into the region of flying fish, and dolphins as they are commonly
+called; tropic birds were now also frequently seen, which had not up to
+this moment been the case; we often also met hereabouts with a
+dark-coloured bird with bronzed wings, having a cry precisely like a
+Snipe. I know not the name of this bird. The more beautiful and largest
+Sea-jellies (acalepha) had now disappeared, although the more minute ones
+were as numerous as ever.
+
+REMARKS.
+
+It therefore appears to me that we have, in coming from the southward to
+this point, passed through three great regions, or zones, of animal life,
+one extending from as far to the southward as I have yet been, namely 36
+degrees south latitude to 31 degrees south latitude; this zone was
+inhabited by numerous Sea-jellies (acalepha) of the smaller kind, by
+porpoises and whales, as well as by immense varieties of the Petrels or
+Procellariae.
+
+The second zone extending from 31 degrees south to 22 degrees south
+latitude was inhabited by immense numbers of the larger and more
+beautiful kind of Sea-jellies (acalepha) particularly by those that have
+the power of stinging. Within this zone I saw but one whale, one shoal of
+porpoises, and not a single one of the long-winged water birds or
+Petrels; in fact I but once in the whole of this distance saw any birds;
+there were also here a great variety and numbers of Sea-jellies
+(acalepha) of the smaller kinds. Do then the larger acalepha in this zone
+perform the office of the birds in the more southern one, and prey upon
+the smaller species of their own kind?
+
+The third zone is the one with which I have commenced the journal of this
+day.
+
+WATER SNAKES.
+
+November 29. Latitude 15 degrees 26 minutes 32 seconds south; longitude
+122 degrees 3 minutes east.
+
+We saw six or seven water snakes (Hydrus) this day, all about three feet
+long, of a dirty yellow colour, with black stripes, the head black, they
+were furnished with fins like an eel, were of a very graceful form, and
+moved on the water exactly like a snake, with the head a little elevated;
+when they dived they turned up on their backs before they sank: we caught
+one of these snakes, also a moth and butterfly. A large bat (Pteropus ?)
+flew about the vessel this evening and pitched several times on the boat
+astern. I once struck it as it passed me, it appeared much fatigued; we
+were 150 miles from the main and thirty from the nearest small sandy
+island.
+
+SHARKS.
+
+We caught two sharks today; the sailors said that they saw fourteen or
+fifteen little sharks swimming round one of these, and that when the bait
+was thrown into the water and made a noise some of these swam into her
+mouth: directly after they had told me this the shark was caught. I had
+it opened and four young ones were found inside, two had never left the
+uterus, for they were attached to it at the time, the other two were not
+so attached, and were larger than the former, and swam well and strongly
+when put into the water: whether or not they had ever left the mother I
+cannot of course say. I have preserved two in spirits, one that was
+attached and one that was not; two intestinal worms were found in the
+stomach of one of the sharks.
+
+
+CHAPTER 4. HANOVER BAY.
+
+NEW AND DANGEROUS SHOAL.
+
+November 29.
+
+This morning at twenty minutes after nine, when in latitude 15 degrees 26
+minutes 32 seconds and longitude 121 degrees 55 east, we suddenly made
+the very unpleasant discovery that we were in the midst of shoals, owing
+to some negligence in our lookout. This was not found out until we were
+hemmed in between two, one lying not more than fifty fathoms from our
+larboard quarter, and the other about three times the distance on the
+starboard beam. I went up to the mast-head, and distinctly saw the rocks,
+not more than two or three feet under water on the larboard side. We
+fortunately passed through this danger without accident; and, directly we
+cleared it, found bottom at twenty-five fathoms, coarse sand and shells.
+
+RED ISLAND.
+
+December 2.
+
+I was called at four A.M. to keep my watch, and, as soon as I had
+ascertained that the men composing it were all present and at their
+stations, I went up aloft, and as I anticipated a speck of land soon
+appeared above the horizon. This was Red Island. Other points shortly
+rose behind it: hill after hill came up into view, at a distance looking
+like islands, which indeed many of them were; but, on a nearer approach,
+the parts connecting the others became visible, and the mainland of this
+vast insular continent gradually revealed itself to our anxious eyes.
+
+MAKING THE LAND.
+
+We stood on until eleven A.M.; but in making land there always rests a
+certain degree of anxiety upon the mind of the seaman and traveller, more
+especially when that land is imperfectly known. As there appeared to be
+every chance of our losing the sea-horizon, and consequently our noon
+observation, if we stood on and the breeze continued, our course was
+changed to the other tack until that hour; and then having correctly
+ascertained our position, Red Island bearing south-east by east, distance
+8 miles, we once more stood in for the land.
+
+Red Island is small, rocky, and of no great elevation; its colour is a
+very dark red; the sides are precipitous, and in its centre is a clump of
+trees which cannot be seen until you have run by the island, as it falls
+gradually from the south-west to the north-east, so that the north-east
+side is the least elevated. We sounded when about seven miles to the
+north-west of it, and found bottom at twenty-five fathoms, of green sandy
+mud.
+
+The sandbank laid down on the Admiralty charts to the north-east of Red
+Island is small and barren; it is very low, and at some distance looks
+like a white rock in the water; being apparently an island formed of the
+same rock as the former, and topped with quartz or white sand. In
+entering Hanover Bay, or Port George the Fourth, a good course is to run
+nearly midway between this and Red Island. At sunset we anchored off
+Entrance Island (Port George the Fourth) in twenty-five fathoms water.
+
+ARRIVAL OFF THE COAST OF AUSTRALIA. ASPECT OF THE COUNTRY FROM
+SHIP-BOARD.
+
+At the first streak of dawn I leant over the vessel's side to gaze upon
+those shores I had so longed to see. I had not anticipated that they
+would present any appearance of inviting fertility; but I was not
+altogether prepared to behold so arid and barren a surface as that which
+now met my view. In front of me stood a line of lofty cliffs,
+occasionally broken by sandy beaches; on the summits of these cliffs and
+behind the beaches rose rocky sandstone hills, very thinly wooded. Whilst
+I mused on this prospect, all hands were busied in getting the vessel
+under weigh, which was soon accomplished; but there was little or no
+wind, and the ship lay almost motionless upon the waters.
+
+LAND AT HIGH BLUFF POINT. WALK TO HANOVER BAY.
+
+By ten o'clock however we were abreast of High Bluff Point and, as there
+appeared to be little chance of our having even a gentle breeze for some
+time, I determined to land with a party at the Point, and to walk from
+thence to Hanover Bay, where on our arrival we could make a signal to the
+vessel for a boat to reconvey us on board. By the adoption of this course
+I hoped to be able at once to select a spot affording water and forage,
+in the neighbourhood of which the sheep and stores might be landed; the
+vessel could then proceed without delay to the Island of Timor to procure
+the requisite number of ponies for our expedition, and, if she made a
+quick passage there and back, I trusted, notwithstanding the numerous
+unforeseen delays that had arisen, we might yet be able to start for the
+interior before the rainy season set in.
+
+LANDING AND DISTRESS FOR WANT OF WATER ON THE ROUTE.
+
+The necessary orders were soon given: the boat was lowered and, whilst
+the party prepared themselves, I went below to arrange with the master
+the precise spot at which the vessel was to anchor in order that no
+mistake might occur upon so vital a point. This done, I returned once
+more on deck, and found all ready for departure.
+
+The party to land consisted of Mr. Lushington, Mr. Walker, and three men
+who were selected to accompany us. I also brought away three of the dogs,
+to whom I was anxious to give a run after their long confinement on
+board.
+
+The shore for which we pulled was not more than half a mile distant, and
+we soon gained the edge of a sandy beach, on which I sprang, eagerly
+followed by the rest; every eye beaming with delight and hope,
+unconscious as we were how soon our trials were to commence.
+
+DISTRESSING MARCH.
+
+I soon found that we had landed under very unfavourable circumstances.
+The sun was intensely hot. The long and close confinement on board a
+small vessel had unfitted us all for taking any violent or continued
+exercise without some previous training, and the country in which we had
+landed was of a more rocky and precipitous character than any I had ever
+before seen; indeed I could not more accurately describe the hills than
+by saying that they appeared to be the ruins of hills; composed as they
+were of huge blocks of red sandstone, confusedly piled together in loose
+disorder, and so overgrown with spinifex and scrub that the interstices
+wore completely hidden, and into these one or other of the party was
+continually slipping and falling.
+
+The trees were small, and their foliage so scant and slight that they
+afforded no shelter whatever from the burning rays of the sun; which
+appeared to strike up again from the sandstone with redoubled heat, so
+that it was really painful to touch or to stand upon a bare rock: we
+therefore kept moving onwards in the hope of meeting with some spot
+favourable for a halting place; but the difficult nature of the ground
+which we had to cross rendered our progress slow and oppressively
+laborious.
+
+A feeling of thirst and lassitude such as I had never before experienced
+soon began to overcome all of us; for such a state of things we had
+unfortunately landed quite unprepared, having only two pints of water
+with us, a portion of which it was necessary to give to the dogs; who
+apparently suffered from the heat in an equal degree with ourselves.
+These distressing symptoms I can only ascribe to the extreme heat of the
+sun reflected from the sandstone rocks, and our previous long confinement
+on board.
+
+LOSS OF OUR THREE DOGS.
+
+Our small supply of water, although but sparingly used, was soon
+exhausted; and the symptoms of lassitude, before so excessive, now became
+far worse. As usual, the endurance of the animals gave way before that of
+the men. We had not completed more than a mile of our route (although it
+was far more if the ascents and descents were taken into account) when
+Ranger, a very fine young dog, dropped behind some rocks, and although we
+turned back to look for him directly he was missed he could not be found.
+
+The next to give way was Ringhalz, a fine Cape buck-hound; he fell
+amongst the rocks, and died almost instantly. The only dog now left was a
+greyhound, who manifested his extreme distress by constantly lying down.
+For some time we dragged him along, but he was at last from necessity
+abandoned. The cry of water was at length raised by one of the party, and
+immediately afterwards we found ourselves on the edge of a deep ravine,
+the precipitous sides of which were composed of nearly horizontal layers
+of red sandstone. Down these some of us contrived to scramble, although
+not without difficulty; but on reaching the bottom we had the
+mortification to find the water salt; and as it would have been very
+laborious to follow its course along the bottom of the ravine over the
+mud, mangroves, and rocks which filled it, we had the pleasure of
+scrambling up again as we best could.
+
+For some short time we remained seated on the edge of the cliffs above
+the ravine; but as there was no shelter here from the sun's rays, and the
+pangs of thirst were pressing, I roused the men at last, and moved on
+again, following the course of the ravine upwards. We had not walked more
+than half a mile when the salt water inlet terminated and the bed of the
+ravine became thickly wooded. At the moment we gained this point some
+white cockatoos came soaring upwards from beneath our feet; and, as we
+knew that this was an infallible sign of the presence of water, we
+descended again to renew our search for it.
+
+WATER DISCOVERED.
+
+Our efforts this time were successful: in a few minutes we found a pool
+of brackish water which appeared, under the present circumstances, to
+afford the most delicious draughts, and, having drunk, we lay down by the
+pool to rest ourselves. Being however doubtful as to which was the best
+route to lead us out of the ravine we were now in, I walked up its
+course, accompanied by Corporal Coles, leaving the others to rest
+themselves, and soon reached its head; when we found ourselves in a small
+but fertile valley, surrounded on all sides by rocky hills. Here were
+many tracks of natives, and we came upon one of their regular haunts,
+where they had arranged a circle of large flat stones round a fireplace
+occupying the centre; on each of these stones was laid a smaller one,
+evidently used for the purpose of breaking small shellfish, for the
+remains of the shells were lying scattered about in all directions;*
+kangaroo bones were also plentifully strewed about, and beside each pair
+of stones was laid a large shell, probably used as a drinking cup.
+
+(*Footnote. We found the marks of an encampment of a tribe of natives.
+Eight or nine spots were cleared away amongst the grass, and in the
+centre of each were the ashes of a small fire, close to which we noticed
+some loose flattened stones with a smaller one lying upon them, which the
+natives probably used for the purpose of bruising or grinding the seeds
+of plants and breaking shellfish. King's Survey of Australia volume 1
+page 302.)
+
+TRACES OF NATIVES. THEIR HUTS.
+
+Natives had been at this spot within the last day or two, and we followed
+their traces, which were quite recent, across a dry watercourse till they
+led to a hut built of a framework of logs of wood, and in shape like a
+beehive, about four feet high and nine in diameter. This hut was of a
+very superior description to those I found afterwards to be generally in
+use in South-Western Australia, and differed from them altogether in that
+its low and narrow entrance rendered access impossible without stooping;
+and with the exception of this aperture the hut was entirely closed.
+
+PROGRESS TOWARDS HANOVER BAY. ALARMING INCREASING DEBILITY OF THE MEN.
+EFFORTS TO REACH THE VESSEL.
+
+Considering that the best route out of these ravines would be by this
+valley, I returned with Coles to the party, whom we found much refreshed
+and, having consulted with Mr. Lushington as to the route we should
+follow to the vessel after reaching the valley, we once more moved on;
+but the same symptoms of lassitude and thirst began very soon again to
+afflict us in an aggravated form; probably from the brackish water we had
+all swallowed. In less than two hours more these symptoms became so
+distressing that I could scarcely induce the men to move, and we
+therefore halted under the shade of some high rocks.
+
+It was now growing late, and the nature of the country was so rocky and
+difficult that I thought it would be impossible for us to attempt to
+march in the night-time; whilst on the other hand the men seemed so
+completely worn out that I feared another day without fresh water would
+be more than they could bear. I therefore became anxious to make the sea
+coast before nightfall, considering that we could easily walk along the
+shore after dark and fire a gun as a signal to the schooner to send a
+boat for us. With this view therefore I moved on towards the sea,
+requesting Mr. Lushington, when I fired, to follow my course with the
+men.
+
+As I walked ahead I found the country very rocky, with lofty bare
+pinnacles standing up every here and there in the forest, one or two of
+which I climbed, but could see nothing of the vessel. I now fired a
+signal shot which, being answered by another from the party, I knew that
+they were on my traces, and again moved on towards the sea. I presently
+fired again, as I thought that they might augur favourably from the
+report, and continued occasionally to do so until I had reached the
+shore.
+
+The cliffs were so steep that I found some difficulty in descending, but
+directly I had gained the sea beach I pulled off my clothes and plunged
+into the water: the quantity of moisture taken into the system by
+absorption as I lay in the sea soon relieved my burning thirst, and by
+the time that the first of the party (Corporal Coles) came up I was quite
+recovered. He followed my example and soon began to revive also. The
+remainder of the party now arrived with Mr. Lushington, who had found
+much difficulty in getting them along. Of his exertions under these
+trying circumstances I cannot speak too highly. But for his persuasion
+and example I think two of the men were so exhausted that they would
+before this have given up in despair.
+
+Corporal Coles being now nearly recovered I left the rest of the party
+under Mr. Lushington to follow the plan of refreshing themselves by
+immersion in the sea and, as two men appeared to me to be very ill, I
+arranged with him that he should keep the whole together and, as soon as
+he considered them sufficiently recovered, they should follow myself and
+Coles; whilst we preceded them along the beach for the purpose of sending
+a boat back from the Lynher to pick them up.
+
+FURTHER COURSE OBSTRUCTED.
+
+I accordingly started with Coles and had not proceeded more than a mile
+when we found two huts (one in ruins and the other complete) of exactly
+the same size and form as that which we had seen in the morning: the
+recent track of a native along the beach close to these was also visible.
+In another half mile our progress was arrested by an arm of the sea,
+about four or five hundred yards across, from which the tide was running
+out with fearful rapidity; and on the opposite cliffs we observed a
+native watching our movements.
+
+As night was coming rapidly on it was necessary for me to decide at once
+what I should do. Coles was unable to swim. If therefore I crossed the
+stream it must be alone: to do so with natives on the opposite bank, of
+whose intentions towards us we were entirely ignorant, was not without
+considerable danger; yet I was very unwilling to leave the men in such a
+state of suffering from thirst when I was so near the schooner, from
+whence their wants could be supplied. Whilst I was debating what to do
+Coles kept firing his gun in hopes that they might hear the report on
+board and send a boat to our relief; in vain however we strained our
+ears, the report of Coles's gun was reverberated from cliff to cliff and
+from hill to hill, but no answering sound came back across the tranquil
+water.
+
+In the meantime I felt more and more anxious about the portion of the
+party who were with Mr. Lushington, having left with them certain orders
+and promised to send a boat up to them; on which promise all their
+further movements would be regulated. The beach near us afforded no wood
+wherewith to make a fire as a signal to the schooner; the cliffs
+hereabouts were too precipitous to climb; and it was evident that but
+very few of the party could swim so broad a space of water; granting that
+they ever reached so far as the point where Coles and myself now were.
+
+SWIM AN INLET OF THE SEA. DANGER IN THE PASSAGE ACROSS AND AFTER LANDING.
+
+I therefore determined to run all risks, and swim the arm of the sea
+which stopped our way.
+
+I directed Coles to wait until the others came up and then to remain with
+them until I returned in a boat. From the rugged nature of the shore I
+could not have walked a yard without shoes, so I kept them on, as well as
+my shirt and military cap, and I took a pistol in one hand as a means of
+defence against the natives, or else to fire it when I reached a spot
+where it could be seen or heard from the vessel.
+
+I plunged in and very soon found myself caught in a tideway so violent
+that resistance to its force, so as either to get on or return, appeared
+at the moment hopeless.* My left hand, in which I held the pistol, was
+called into requisition to save my life; for the stream washed the cap
+from my head and, the cap then filling with water, and being carried down
+by the strong current, the chin-strap caught round my neck and nearly
+throttled me as I dragged it after me through the water; whilst the loose
+folds of my shirt, being washed out to seawards by the tide, kept getting
+entangled with my arm. I grew weak and faint but still swam my best, and
+at last I providentially reached a reef of rocks which projected from the
+opposite shore, and to which I clung until I had somewhat regained my
+strength.
+
+(*Footnote. I should state that the rise and fall of tide here is
+thirty-eight feet.)
+
+DANGER FROM NATIVES.
+
+I then clambered up on the rocks, and from thence made my way to the
+beach; but no sooner had I gained it than I heard a native call from the
+top of the cliffs, and the answering cries of his comrades rang through
+the wood as they followed me along; my pistol was so thoroughly soaked in
+my passage across the inlet that it was quite useless except as a club.
+To attempt to swim back again after the narrow escape I had just had
+would have been madness; besides which if I had succeeded I should have
+lost the object for which I had put my life at hazard. Nothing therefore
+was left but to walk along shore to the schooner, trusting, in my
+defenceless state, that I might not fall in with any natives. It was now
+dark and the shore was so broken and rocky that I got terribly cut and
+bruised, and was, moreover, so weak from my exertions in swimming that
+when I arrived opposite the vessel I could scarcely hail. Some of those
+on board however heard me (as I found afterwards) and shouted in reply;
+but their voices never reached my ears, and I imagined they were too far
+for I could not now see the vessel.
+
+I made one or two more efforts to hail the Lynher, but the noise I made
+had now attracted the notice of the natives and I heard their cries in
+several directions round me; this rendered my situation an unpleasant one
+for I was worn out, naked, and defenceless: at first I thought to return
+and rejoin my party, and even turned back for a short distance with this
+intention, but I found myself too weak for such an undertaking and
+changed my plans; resolving to remain nearly opposite to the vessel until
+the morning, and resting my chance of safety upon being discovered from
+it before the natives found me.
+
+TAKEN UP BY THE LYNHER'S BOAT.
+
+With this intent I returned to the position from which I had lately
+hailed, and crept into a hole in the rocks whence I could still
+occasionally hear the calls of the natives; but, being thoroughly worn
+out, I soon forgot my toils and dangers in a very sound and comfortable
+sleep. I might have slept for some two hours when I was roused by hearing
+a voice shout "Mr. Grey;" still however feeling rather distrustful of the
+truth of my mental impressions, and unwilling to betray my whereabouts to
+the natives, I returned no answer, but, putting out my head from my
+secret place of rest, I waited patiently for a solution of my doubts. But
+again I certainly heard the same voice shout "Mr. Grey," and I moreover
+now distinctly recognised the noise of oars working in the rowlocks; I
+therefore hailed "Lynher, ahoy," and all my doubts were completely put at
+rest by the hearty cheers which greeted my ear as Mr. Smith, the mate of
+the schooner, called out, "Where shall we pull in, Sir?"
+
+FORTUNATE DELIVERY AND THE PARTY REGAIN THE LYNHER.
+
+In a few minutes more I was in the boat, and rejoiced to find all the
+party safely there before me. My next question was, "Have you a little
+water here?" "Plenty, Sir," answered Corporal Cole as he handed me a
+little, which I greedily swallowed.
+
+Their adventures were soon related to me. The party under Mr. Lushington,
+being on an exposed part of the coast, the flash of their guns had been
+seen after dark, and the Captain despatched a boat from the schooner to
+pull along shore. This boat first of all found Coles near where I had
+quitted him, and he directed them to the others; the boat, having picked
+them up, then returned for Coles, and heard from him the intentions with
+which I had attempted to swim the arm of the sea; but as he had never
+seen me reach the opposite bank, and the inlet was of very considerable
+width, they had, up to the moment of finding me, felt very serious
+misgivings as to my fate.
+
+I did not know till afterwards that the water Corporal Coles had handed
+to me on entering the boat was all they had on board when he was picked
+up, and that, although suffering severely from thirst, Coles would not
+touch a drop as long as he retained any hope that I might be found and be
+in want of it.
+
+RETURN OF ALL ON BOARD.
+
+We were now however safe again, and as all had borne themselves well
+under the difficulties to which they had been exposed, more particularly
+Mr. Lushington, to whom the credit is due of having, by his personal
+example and influence, successfully brought on the party to the point of
+their embarkation, it was now pleasant to revert to the trials we had
+passed, and to recall to one another's recollection each minute
+circumstance of our day's adventures; and when we were again on board and
+had turned in for the night I could not help feeling a deep sense of
+gratitude to that Providence who, in so brief a space, had preserved me
+through so many perils.
+
+
+CHAPTER 5. AT HANOVER BAY.
+
+PLAGUE OF FLIES.
+
+December 4.
+
+To sleep after sunrise was impossible on account of the number of flies
+which kept buzzing about the face. To open our mouths was dangerous. In
+they flew, and mysteriously disappeared, to be rapidly ejected again in a
+violent fit of coughing; and into the eyes, when unclosed, they soon
+found their way and, by inserting the proboscis and sucking, speedily
+made them sore; neither were the nostrils safe from their attacks, which
+were made simultaneously on all points, and in multitudes. This was a
+very troublesome annoyance, but I afterwards found it to be a very
+general one throughout all the unoccupied portions of Australia; although
+in general the further north you go in this continent the more
+intolerable does the fly nuisance become.
+
+Sunrise offered a very beautiful spectacle; the water was quite
+unruffled, but the motion communicated by the tides was so great that,
+although there was not a breath of air stirring, the sea heaved slowly
+with a grand and majestic motion. On two sides the view was bounded by
+lofty cliffs, from three to four hundred feet high, lightly wooded at
+their summits, and broken by wide openings, into which ran arms of the
+sea, forming gloomy channels of communication with the interior country;
+whilst on each side of their entrances the huge cliffs rose, like the
+pillars of some gigantic portal.
+
+In front of us lay a smooth sandy beach, beyond which rose gradually a
+high wooded country, and behind us was the sea, studded with numerous
+islands of every variety of form.
+
+ENTRANCE TO PRINCE REGENT'S RIVER.
+
+I was too much tired by the fatigues of the night before to enjoy the
+scene with the full delight I should otherwise have done; the bruises I
+had received made me feel so stiff and sore that the slightest movement
+was painful; the rainy season was however now so near that it would not
+do to lose a single day of preparation. Directly after breakfast
+therefore, whilst one boat went off to search for fresh water and a
+convenient spot to land the stores at, I accompanied the Captain of the
+vessel in another up Prince Regent's River.
+
+EFFECT OF TIDES.
+
+In general the openings to these rivers from the sea are very narrow,
+forming gorges which terminate in extensive basins, some fifteen or
+twenty miles inland; the levels of these reservoirs are subject to be
+raised thirty-seven feet by every tide through their funnel-like
+entrances, along which the waters consequently pour with a velocity of
+which it is difficult to form any adequate idea. By such a tide were we
+swept along as we entered this river by its southern mouth.
+
+On each side of us rose lofty red sandstone cliffs; sometimes quite
+precipitous, sometimes, from ancient landslips, shelving gradually down
+to the water, and at these points covered with a dense tropical
+vegetation.
+
+GREEN ANTS.
+
+At several such places we landed, but always found the ascent to the
+interior so covered with large loose rocks that it would have been
+impossible to have disembarked stores or stock on any. The thickness of
+the vegetation made it difficult to force a way through, and whenever, in
+attempting so to do, a tree was shaken, numbers of a large green sort of
+ant fell from the boughs on the unhappy trespasser and, making the best
+of their way to the back of his neck, gave warning by a series of most
+painful bites that he was encroaching on their domain. Yet it was
+sometimes ludicrous to see one of the party momentarily stamping and
+roaring with pain, as he cried out to a companion to hasten and assist
+him in getting rid of an enemy at once so diminutive and so troublesome.
+
+PARRAKEETS.
+
+We saw a great number of beautiful parakeets, as well as a remarkable
+hawk of a bright cinnamon colour, with a milk-white head and neck. As
+there was no apparent probability of our finding hereabouts a spot suited
+to land our stock and stores at we returned in the afternoon to the
+schooner, and found that the party in the other boat had been as
+unsuccessful as ourselves.
+
+DESCRIPTION OF LANDING-PLACE, AND ENCAMPMENT AT HANOVER BAY.
+
+December 5.
+
+The long-boat was this morning despatched to the ravine where we had
+procured water on the first day of our landing to bring a few casks for
+immediate use, and to examine the country again in that direction; whilst
+I accompanied the Captain to examine the inlet at which Captain King had
+watered in his visit to these parts, in 1821.
+
+WATERING PLACE AT HANOVER BAY.
+
+The approach to this watering-place was through a deep narrow channel,
+bounded on each side by high cliffs, against which our voices echoed and
+sounded strangely; whilst from the quantity of light which the cliffs
+excluded a solemn sombre hue was imparted to the scene. Channels similar
+to the main one branched off on each side; they were however so narrow
+that the dense vegetation which grew on their sides nearly met in the
+centre, giving them an appearance of dark and refreshing coolness; most
+of these terminated in cascades, now dry, but down which the water in the
+rainy seasons pours in torrents: at the foot of some of these cascades
+were deep cavities, or natural basins, worn in the solid rock by the
+falling of the water, and these were still full of the clearest cool
+water, in which sported small insects and animals of kinds quite unknown
+to me.
+
+As we were swept up the main opening by the tide and sea-breeze its width
+gradually contracted, till at last we came to a small island bearing a
+single large mangrove tree, which we named One Tree Island. The shores
+now became thickly wooded with mangroves, from the boughs of which
+depended in clusters small but well-flavoured oysters, and soon after
+passing the island we found our farther progress arrested by large
+rounded blocks of sandstone, from amongst which fresh water came pouring
+in a hundred little cascades.
+
+BEAUTIFUL RAVINE.
+
+We here quitted the boat to enter a deep and picturesque ravine, of which
+the mean breadth was only one hundred and forty-seven feet, bounded on
+each side by perpendicular cliffs from one hundred and fifty to two
+hundred feet high; in the centre ran a clear stream, sometimes forming
+deep and extensive pools, sometimes divided into innumerable little rills
+which gurgled along through a dense and matted vegetation; and bordered
+on each side of the main bed by a lofty species of Eucalyptus, with a
+bark resembling layers of coarse white paper, and a foliage pendant and
+graceful; whilst the great height of these trees for they raised their
+heads above the cliffs, contrasted strangely with the narrowness of the
+ravine in which they grew. The space between these trees and the cliffs
+was filled by a dense forest, principally composed of the Pandanus and
+wild nutmeg trees. Rich grasses and climbing plants occupied the interval
+and twined around the trees, whilst parakeets of the most vivid colours
+filled the wood with their cries. Nothing could be more striking than
+this singular and novel scene; and we were all delighted as we wound our
+way up the beautiful ravine.
+
+The same character continued for the next mile or two, whilst
+occasionally branch valleys of similar character ran off from a main one,
+giving it at these points a much greater width. The summit of the cliffs
+was found to be generally a rocky sandy tableland, thinly wooded; and
+from what I had seen it appeared to me that I was not likely to find a
+place better adapted for landing the stores than the main ravine.
+
+On embarking to return we could perceive no sign of One Tree Island; and
+as we swept down towards the sea the leafy top of a tree seen in the
+clear water under the boat was the only evidence of its existence; though
+a few hours ago it had formed so prominent an object.
+
+FATE OF TWO OF THE DOGS.
+
+The long-boat returned to the vessel half an hour after us and brought
+eighty gallons of water; but the spot whence it was obtained had been
+found very inconvenient for the purpose. At the waterhole they had met
+Ranger, the dog we lost the first day; but he appeared quite mad, and
+without recognising any of them ran wildly away into the woods. The body
+of poor Ringhalz was also found, who had died on the spot where he fell.
+
+LABOUR OF DISEMBARKING STORES.
+
+December 6.
+
+A party landed with me soon after dawn at the same point as yesterday,
+for the purpose of selecting the spot at which to fix our temporary
+encampment. We traced the valley for about four miles through scenery
+precisely similar to that which we had found before; many branch valleys
+ran of from the main one and differed from it in no other respect but
+that they were much narrower. The most favourable spot I could find for
+our purpose was distant about half a mile from the landing-place and
+situated at the junction of two valleys, upon a neck of land which ran
+out from the base of the cliffs. This was the nearest point to the sea at
+which we should have been safe from any sudden inundation; it combined,
+moreover, the advantages of affording a good supply of food and water for
+the stock, of not being within reach of missiles thrown from the cliffs,
+and at the same time of being situated close to an easy ascent to their
+summit. I should have preferred pitching the encampment on the tableland
+at the top, but the labour of carrying the stores up so precipitous an
+ascent would have been too great for the men, and would have delayed our
+movements for a longer time than I thought prudent.
+
+PREPARATIONS FOR ENCAMPING.
+
+Having selected the point for our encampment the next task was to form a
+pathway to and from the landing-place; and this, on account of the rocky,
+broken nature of the ground, was one of no slight difficulty. We first
+set fire to the bush, and being thus enabled to see our way a little we
+commenced moving the rocks and stones, and continued this operation until
+near sunset, when we returned on board.
+
+NATIVES SEEN.
+
+December 7.
+
+We landed again early this morning and went on working at the pathway.
+The men dined on shore at noon, about which time it was nearly low-water.
+We had repeatedly seen footmarks of the natives in the mud, and this
+probably was a favourite fishing resort of theirs, for this day they came
+upon the cliffs over our heads and shouted at us, as if to try and
+frighten us away. Finding however that this produced no effect, they
+threw down some large stones at us and then decamped.
+
+In the course of the night (2 A.M.) we had one of those sudden heavy
+squalls from off the land which are so common on this coast. I slept on
+deck and was called to hear a loud roaring on the shore: this was
+evidently the noise of a rushing wind, which gradually drew nearer and
+nearer and at last reached us, accompanied by lightning, thunder, and
+heavy rain; it did not however last for more than twenty minutes, and we
+received no damage from it.
+
+December 8.
+
+Whilst the party continued the pathway I landed on the sandy beach and
+explored the interior of the country for several miles. We found but very
+little fresh water and the country was dreadfully burnt up; the heavy
+rain which had fallen last night however gave signs of the approach of
+the wet season. We passed several dry watercourses, in many of which we
+dug for it, but all that we obtained was brackish. We had another squall
+this afternoon, similar to last night's.
+
+LANDING STOCK. LABOUR IN LANDING STORES.
+
+December 9.
+
+This day we pitched the tents, disembarked the sheep and goats, and some
+of the stores. It was no slight pleasure to see for the first time those
+animals landed on a new country, and they appeared themselves to rejoice
+in their escape from the close confinement on shipboard.
+
+We here first hoisted the British flag, and went through the ceremony of
+taking possession of the territory in the name of Her Majesty and her
+heirs for ever.
+
+The next few days were passed in moving the stores from the landing-place
+to the tent; as it was necessary that before I allowed the schooner to
+start we should be amply provided with all necessaries so as to be able
+to maintain ourselves for some time, in the event of anything happening
+to the vessel: this was very fatiguing work for the whole party but they
+all exerted themselves with the most strenuous energy, especially Mr.
+Lushington; and our labours were varied by several amusing novelties
+which relieved the monotony of the employment.
+
+REMARKABLE FISHES.
+
+Sometimes as we sat at our dinner near the landing-place we watched a
+strange species of fish (genus Chironectes, Cuvier). These little animals
+are provided with arms, at least with members shaped like such as far as
+the elbow, but the lower part resembles a fin; they are amphibious,
+living equally well on the mud or in the water; in moving in the mud they
+walk, as it were, on their elbows, and the lower arm or fin then projects
+like a great splay foot; but in swimming the whole of this apparatus is
+used as a fin. They have also the property of being able to bury
+themselves almost instantaneously in the soft mud when disturbed. The
+uncouth gambols and leaps of these anomalous creatures were very
+singular.
+
+Another remarkable fish was a species of mullet which, being left by the
+retreat of the high tides in the pools beyond the rounded rocks at the
+head of the landing-place, was obliged to change its element from salt to
+fresh water, which by a very remarkable habit it appeared to do without
+suffering any inconvenience. The natural hue of this fish was a very pale
+red, but when they had been for some time in the fresh water this reddish
+tinge became much deeper, and when of this colour I have found them in
+streams a considerable distance from the sea, as if, like our salmon,
+they had quitted it for the purpose of spawning. Indeed birds, insects,
+and all things we saw, were so new and singular that our attention was
+kept constantly excited by the varied objects which passed before us.
+
+December 11.
+
+I went on board in the morning for the purpose of preparing my letters,
+and about 10 A.M. it was reported to me that a party of natives had come
+down to one of the sandy beaches and were fishing there. I immediately
+went upon deck and saw four natives in the sea opposite to the beach,
+running about and fishing. Captain Browne went on shore at once with me
+to try and parley with them, but as we approached the land they ran away;
+we remained for some time on the beach and tried to follow their tracks
+up into the country, but could see nothing more of them.
+
+This night at 8 P.M. we had another sudden squall from off the land,
+accompanied with thunder, lightning, and heavy rain; it blew so hard that
+we were obliged to let go the best bower anchor, but as usual it only
+lasted twenty minutes.
+
+PREPARATIONS FOR SENDING THE VESSEL TO TIMOR.
+
+As Mr. Lushington was to accompany the schooner to Timor, and I was
+anxious to ascertain which would be the best direction for us to move off
+in on his return, I determined to commence my exploring trips as soon as
+possible. All hands still continued busily engaged in landing the stores
+and conveying them to the tents; but though the men worked hard our
+progress was slow. Everything had to be carried on the men's shoulders,
+for the path, after the great trouble and labour we had bestowed on it,
+was still so intricate and rocky that it was impossible to use even a
+hand-barrow. The intense heat of the sun, too, incommoded the men very
+much at first; but by the 16th of December all the stores were landed,
+and a considerable supply of water was taken off to the vessel. I
+determined therefore now to start in my first exploring excursion,
+leaving to Mr. Lushington the task of seeing the watering of the schooner
+completed before he left for Timor.
+
+
+CHAPTER 6. HANOVER BAY AND ITS VICINITY.
+
+NATIVES SEEN.
+
+Sunday December 17.
+
+This morning directly after breakfast I read prayers to the men, and then
+commenced my preparations for the excursion on which I intended to start
+in the evening. Whilst I was occupied in arranging my papers Mr.
+Lushington observed two natives sitting on the rocks on the top of the
+cliffs which overlooked the valley, and gazing down intently on us. The
+instant that he made friendly signs to them they rose from their seats
+and began to retreat. Some of the party then called to them and one of
+the natives answered; but they still moved rapidly away. I would not
+allow them to be followed for fear of increasing their alarm, and in the
+hope that they would return, but was disappointed. It must have awakened
+strange feelings in the breast of these two savages, who could never
+before have seen civilized man, thus to have sat spectators and
+overlookers of the every action of such incomprehensible beings as we
+must have appeared; and the relation to their comrades of the wonders
+they had witnessed could not have been to them a whit less marvellous
+than the tales of the grey-headed Irish peasant, when he recounts the
+freaks of the fairies, "whose midnight revels by the forest side or
+fountain" he has watched intently from some shrub-clad hill.
+
+COMMENCEMENT OF FIRST EXCURSION.
+
+I started in the evening, accompanied by Corporal John Coles and Private
+R. Mustard, both of the corps of Royal Sappers and Miners, and for a
+short distance by two or three others of the party from the camp. We
+moved up the ravine in which we were encamped in a nearly due south
+direction, and after following this course about a mile turned up a
+branch ravine to the left, bearing 87 degrees from the north.
+
+CHARACTER OF THE SCENERY. GEOLOGICAL PHENOMENA.
+
+The romantic scenery of this narrow glen could not be surpassed. Its
+width at bottom was not more than forty or fifty feet, on each side rose
+cliffs of sandstone between three and four hundred feet high and nearly
+perpendicular; lofty paper-bark trees grew here and there, and down the
+middle ran a beautiful stream of clear, cool water, which now gushed
+along, a murmuring mountain torrent, and anon formed a series of small
+cascades. As we ascended higher the width contracted; the paper-bark
+trees disappeared; and the bottom of the valley became thickly wooded
+with wild nutmeg and other fragrant trees. Cockatoos soared, with hoarse
+screams, above us, many-coloured parakeets darted away, filling the woods
+with their playful cries, and the large white pigeons which feed on the
+wild nutmegs cooed loudly to their mates, and battered the boughs with
+their wings as they flew away.
+
+The spot I chose to halt at for the night was at the foot of a lofty
+precipice of rocks, from which a spring gushed forth. Those who had
+accompanied us from the camp now returned, leaving me and the two
+soldiers alone and about to penetrate some distance into an utterly
+unknown country. We were each provided with ten days' provisions and,
+confident in the steadiness and courage of my men, I had not the
+slightest anxiety--feeling that as long as we maintained a cool and
+determined bearing the natives would make no attacks upon us that we
+could not repel.
+
+We soon erected a little hut of bark, then kindled a fire and cooked our
+supper, consisting of tea and two white pigeons which we had shot; and by
+the time our repast was finished it was nearly dark. My companions laid
+down to sleep: I remained up for a short time to think alone in the
+wilderness, and then followed their example.
+
+ASCENT OF A GLEN.
+
+December 18.
+
+At break of day we were again upon our route, which lay up the valley we
+had slept in; but, as each of us carried ten days' provisions and a day's
+water, besides our arms, the progress we made in a tropical climate, when
+thus laden, was necessarily slow and laborious; but the beauty of the
+landscape and the solicitude we all felt to see more of this unexplored
+land cheered us on.
+
+TABLELAND AT THE SUMMIT.
+
+Having at length reached the tableland which this valley drained we found
+ourselves in the midst of a forest, differing widely from anything we had
+before seen. The soil beneath our feet was sandy and thickly clothed with
+spinifex (a prickly grass) which in spite of our thick trousers slightly
+but continually wounded our legs. The trees were lofty and some of them
+of considerable circumference; but the trunks of all were charred and
+blackened by constant fires: this circumstance, and their slight and
+thin, yet strikingly graceful foliage, gave them a most picturesque
+appearance.
+
+Every here and there in the wood rose lofty and isolated pinnacles of
+sandstone rock, fantastic in form, and frequently overgrown with graceful
+creeping and climbing plants which imparted to them a somewhat of mystery
+and elegance. In other parts rose the gigantic ant-hills so much spoken
+of by former visitors of these shores; and in the distance we saw
+occasionally the forms of the timid kangaroos, who stole fearfully away
+from the unknown disturbers of their solitude.
+
+ANOTHER VALLEY.
+
+But when we arrived at the extremity of the tableland I felt somewhat
+disappointed at beholding a deep narrow ravine at my feet, precisely
+resembling in character the one we had left, and beyond this a second
+sandstone range, wooded as that on which we stood; in about half an hour
+we gained the bottom of the ravine and found that a rapid stream ran
+through it, which, being the first we had discovered, I named the
+Lushington, after the father of my associate in this expedition, and in
+accordance with a determination I had made before starting.
+
+Mustard (one of the men with me) being ill, I determined to halt here for
+breakfast and, having completed this meal, I was sorry to find that he
+was still too unwell to proceed; such however being the case I was
+compelled to halt for the day: leaving Coles therefore to take care of
+him, I strolled off to explore the valley alone. Except in being much
+larger it differed in no respect from the first in which we encamped, and
+I found that within about half a mile below the spot where I had left the
+men it terminated in a salt-water inlet, nearly choked up with mangroves.
+On returning to them I found Mustard somewhat better; to our annoyance
+however heavy rain set in, accompanied by thunder and lightning; and as
+we had no shelter but what some overhanging rocks afforded us we passed a
+very uncomfortable night.
+
+December 19.
+
+Mustard was still not quite well; we therefore started late and travelled
+slowly, keeping nearly in a south-east direction. We thus gradually
+ascended the second sandstone range, the summit of which was a tableland,
+at this point about half a mile wide.
+
+GEOLOGICAL PHENOMENA.
+
+We here remarked a very curious circumstance. Several acres of land on
+this elevated position were nearly covered with lofty isolated sandstone
+pillars of the most grotesque and fantastic shapes, from which the
+imagination might easily have pictured to itself forms equally singular
+and amusing. In one place was a regular unroofed aisle, with a row of
+massive pillars on each side; and in another there stood upon a pedestal
+what appeared to be the legs of an ancient statue, from which the body
+had been knocked away.
+
+Some of these time-worn columns were covered with sweet-smelling
+creepers, while their bases were concealed by a dense vegetation, which
+added much to their very singular appearance. The height of two or three
+which I measured was upwards of forty feet; and, as the tops of all of
+them were nearly upon the same level, that of the surrounding country
+must at one period have been as high as their present summits, probably
+much higher.
+
+From the top of one of these pillars I surveyed the surrounding country
+and saw on every side proofs of the same extensive degradation--so
+extensive, indeed, that I found it very difficult to account for; but the
+gurgling of water, which I heard beneath me, soon put an end to the state
+of perplexity in which I was involved, for I ascertained that streams
+were running in the earth beneath my feet; and, on descending and
+creeping into a fissure in the rocks, I found beneath the surface a
+cavern precisely resembling the remains that existed above ground, only
+that this was roofed, whilst through it ran a small stream which in the
+rainy season must become a perfect torrent. It was now evident to me that
+ere many years had elapsed the roof would give way, and what now were the
+buttresses of dark and gloomy caverns would emerge into day and become
+columns clad in green, and resplendent in the bright sunshine.
+
+GRADUAL DEGRADATION OF THE LAND.
+
+In this state they would gradually waste away beneath the ever-during
+influence of atmospheric causes, and the material being then carried down
+by the streams, through a series of caverns resembling those of which
+they once formed a portion, would be swept out into the ocean and
+deposited on sandbanks, to be raised again, at some remote epoch, a new
+continent, built up with the ruins of an ancient world.
+
+I subsequently, during the season of the heavy rains, remarked the usual
+character of the mountain streams to be that they rose at the foot of
+some little elevation which stood upon a lofty tableland composed of
+sandstone, then flowed in a sandy bed for a short distance and afterwards
+mysteriously sank in the cracks and crevices made in the rocks from
+atmospheric influences, and did not again reappear until they had reached
+the foot of the precipice which terminated the tableland whence they
+sprang; here they came foaming out in a rapid stream which had
+undoubtedly worked strange havoc in the porous sandstone rocks among
+which it held its subterraneous course.
+
+What the amount of sand annually carried down from the north-western
+portion of Australia into the ocean may be we have no means whatever of
+ascertaining; that it is sufficient to form beds of sand of very great
+magnitude is attested by the existence of numerous and extensive
+sandbanks all along the coast. One single heavy tropical shower of only a
+few hours' duration washed down, over a plot of ground which was planted
+with barley, a bed of sand nearly five inches deep, which the succeeding
+showers again swept off, carrying it further upon its way towards the
+sea.
+
+The space of ground covered with these columns gradually contracted its
+dimensions as we proceeded; the columns themselves became nearer and
+nearer to each other until they at length formed walls of cliffs on each
+side of us, and we finally reached a point where a single lofty pillar,
+standing in front of a dry cascade, formed the centre of an amphitheatre
+of sandstone. There was some water in a little natural basin at the base
+of the cliffs. I determined therefore to halt here for breakfast and,
+leaving the men at the foot of the cascade to prepare some tea, I
+clambered to its summit, and found myself on another tableland similar to
+that which I had just left, and covered in the same manner with natural
+columns.
+
+SANDSTONE CAVERNS.
+
+Some distance from the top of the cascade I discovered a cavern, or
+rather huge hole in the water-course, into which, thinking it might
+contain fossil bones, I descended as far as the first ledge, and I then
+perceived that the water pouring through this cavern in the rainy season
+was cutting off another rock of sandstone similar to the remarkable
+pillar in front of the cascade. The water in the basin below must have
+filtered out from this cavern. On a further examination I found that a
+precisely similar series of operations was going on throughout the whole
+amphitheatre of cliffs which bounded the tableland we had been traversing
+during the morning.
+
+In the rainy season (March 7th) I again passed this spot and found the
+watercourse full of water, which was also falling abundantly from the
+cascade. From this circumstance I inferred that the subterraneous outlets
+for the water were all filled, consequently the large body which these
+caverns would contain must have been then endeavouring to force its way
+through the fissures in the porous sandstone rocks.
+
+CONTINUATION OF ROUTE. HALT IN A VALLEY.
+
+After breakfast we continued on our route through a sandstone country
+precisely resembling the one which I have now described, and in the
+course of the day, having completed fifteen miles in a straight line, we
+halted for the night in a fertile valley affording plenty of fresh water,
+and so densely wooded with the dwarf pandanus and other prickly trees
+that we could scarcely make our way through the underwood. In this valley
+we saw several sorts of cranes, principally Ardea antigone, and Ardea
+scolopacia, and I shot one of the former kind and laid it by, intending
+to eat it in the morning. We could not find any holes in the rocks large
+enough to protect us from the rain, which fell throughout the night,
+accompanied by thunder and lightning.
+
+December 20.
+
+Just as we turned out this morning a large kangaroo came close to us to
+drink at a waterhole; the effect as it stole along through the thick
+bushes in the morning twilight was very striking. I could not succeed in
+getting a shot at it; but, as I was determined to have a meat breakfast,
+I desired Mustard to cook the crane, the rats however had eaten the
+greater part of it; we therefore at once moved on and, after travelling
+four miles in a south-east direction over good land, we reached a valley,
+the largest and best I had yet seen, containing trees and birds such as
+we had not before met with; kangaroos were more plentiful, and, for the
+first time, we saw the opossum. The valley was more than a mile in width
+at the point where we first made it, and we had but just time to cross it
+and to gain the partial shelter of some rocks when heavy rain again set
+in. We could keep no fire and, being soon wet through, passed a wretched
+night.
+
+December 21.
+
+We all today began to feel the want of food; since Sunday night we had
+subsisted on nothing but rice and tea, and only in very small quantities
+at a time, as the heavy rain had materially interrupted our cooking. As
+there was plenty of game in this valley I determined to halt for a day
+previously to my return to the party, for the double purpose of exploring
+the valley and of shooting game.
+
+CUCKOO-PHEASANT.
+
+The large bird which was the most abundant here was the Cuculus phasianus
+or pheasant cuckoo. This bird in colour, in length of tail, in its size,
+and general appearance so closely resembles the hen pheasant of England
+that, when it is on the wing, it is almost impossible to tell the
+difference; its habits and food are also identical with that of the
+English pheasant. The chief point of distinction is that its toes point
+two before and two behind, in the same manner as those of a parrot; but
+what is very remarkable about this bird is that, although, like the other
+Scansores, it delights in climbing and running up trees, it is equally
+fond of running along the ground in the manner a pheasant does.
+
+SPORTING.
+
+This day I found plenty of these birds in a cover of long dry grass and
+bushes about half my height. From this kind of ground I descended to deep
+lagoons in the bottoms, with rushes, reeds, and dense tropical vegetation
+around them, amongst which the bamboo and pandanus bore a conspicuous
+figure; as I beat this cover the pheasants, with their whirring noise,
+rose on all sides of me, and my Westley Richards was kept in constant
+operation. I never enjoyed a better day's pheasant shooting in any
+preserve in England; and I may here remark that North-Western Australia
+is as good a country for sport in the shooting way as I am acquainted
+with; whilst for every kind of sport except wild-fowl shooting the
+southern part of Australia is the worst country in the world. My bag
+being full, and my companions very hungry, I had no excuse for staying
+longer away from them, and therefore returned, although very loth to
+leave such beautiful scenery and such excellent sport.
+
+FERTILE COUNTRY DESCRIED.
+
+In the interval between the showers, and whilst the men were trying to
+kindle a fire, I ascended a sandstone range under the shelter of some
+rocks near the summit of which we were encamped; from this elevated
+position I saw a far better country to the south of us than any we had
+yet traversed; and the prospect was so cheering in this direction that I
+felt assured, when it was once gained with the horses, we should be able
+to travel on with comparative rapidity and facility.
+
+NATIVE HAUNTS.
+
+Having emptied my bag I started again to commence the exploration of the
+valley we were in. It sloped first in a north-easterly and then in a
+nearly easterly direction; the river that ran through it was in some
+places almost dry, or was rather a chain of large ponds than a river,
+several of these ponds being more than a hundred yards across. I followed
+the valley down for about five miles in the direction of Prince Regent's
+River and found to my surprise that this part was by no means thinly
+inhabited by natives; still, as none of the traces I had yet seen were
+very recent, I trusted that we should not fall in with any considerable
+body.
+
+TRACES OF NATIVES.
+
+At length however I came upon a spot which a number of them appeared to
+have quitted only an hour or two before, and where they had been sitting
+under a large tree at the edge of one of these ponds; their recent fire
+had been first slaked with water and sand then thrown over it. I knew
+therefore that they had been disturbed, and most probably by my gun; but
+not before they had made a hearty meal of roasted fresh-water mussels
+(unios) and nuts of a kind which grew on a large shady tree in pods, like
+a tamarind pod, the kernel being contained in a shell, of which each pod
+held several, and the fruit tasting exactly like filberts. The spot was
+admirably suited for their purpose; their bark beds were placed under the
+shelter of this tree and only a few yards distant from the pond, which
+contained abundance of large unios.
+
+ATTACK OF NATIVES.
+
+I sat down under the nut tree to consider what was my best plan to adopt.
+From the signs around us the natives were evidently much more numerous
+than I had expected: in the event of anything happening to one of the
+three our return to the main party might be considerably impeded, if not
+altogether prevented; and although, from the superiority of our weapons
+over theirs, I entertained but little doubt as to the issue of any
+contest we might be forced into, the calls of humanity as well is of
+personal interest warned me to do my utmost to avoid an affray.
+
+RETURN TOWARDS HANOVER BAY.
+
+I returned therefore to the party and, having made our dinner from
+pheasant soup and birds which had been first split in two and then nicely
+roasted on the ashes, we commenced our journey homewards, cautiously and
+circumspectly, that we might run no risk of being surprised. Until the
+evening began to close upon us we pursued our route through scenery
+similar to that we had passed the day before, our course laying several
+miles to the northward of our former track; and when we halted for the
+night I carefully chose a good position and, mentioning my apprehensions
+concerning the natives to the men in such a way as to put them on their
+guard without exciting their alarm, we bivouacked for the night. Soon
+after sunset the thunderstorms of the previous evening were renewed,
+accompanied by tremendous rain. This was unfortunate as it rendered it
+nearly impossible for us to keep our arms in an efficient state.
+
+December 22.
+
+After passing a wretched and uncomfortable night we started before dawn,
+pursuing a direction about west by north, and passed one of the openings
+from Prince Regent's River laid down in Captain King's chart, and there
+left without a termination, which I had thus an opportunity of fixing.
+Having completed about six miles I halted for breakfast. No signs
+whatever of the natives had been again seen; this restored my confidence
+and, as the sun was intensely hot and we were much fatigued, we lay about
+in rather a careless and imprudent way. Fortunately the gathering clouds
+prognosticated that we should soon have rain; and, as we could get no
+good shelter where we were, I ordered the men to move on: we had just
+gained the top of the range when a violent storm of rain overtook us, I
+therefore doubled back about a hundred yards to the left of our former
+track to gain some rocks forming a portion of a detached group upon a
+tableland, and which I had observed as we passed them.
+
+ATTACKED BY NATIVES.
+
+Scarcely had we reached these rocks, and sheltered ourselves under the
+overhanging projections, when I saw a savage advancing with a spear in
+his right hand, and a bundle of similar weapons in his left; he was
+followed by a party of thirteen others, and with them was a small dog not
+of the kind common to this country. The men were curiously painted for
+war, red being the predominant colour, and each man carried several
+spears, a rowing stick, and a club. Their chief was in front, and
+distinguished by his hair being of a dark red colour from some
+composition with which it was smeared; the others followed him close,
+noiselessly, and with stealthy pace, one by one, whilst he, crouching
+almost to the earth, pricked off our trail.
+
+We remained concealed and motionless until they had all passed, but the
+moment they came to where we had turned off they discovered our retreat,
+and raised loud shouts of triumph, as, forming themselves into a
+semicircle, they advanced upon us, brandishing their spears and bounding
+from rock to rock. It was in vain that I made friendly signs and
+gestures, they still closed upon us, and to my surprise I heard their
+war-cry answered by a party who were coming over the high rocks in our
+rear, which I had flattered myself protected us in that direction.
+
+Our situation was now so critical that I was compelled to assume a
+hostile attitude. I therefore shouted in answer to their cries and,
+desiring the men to fire one at a time if I gave the word, I advanced
+rapidly, at the same time firing one barrel over their heads. This had
+the desired effect. With the exception of one more resolute than the rest
+they fled on all sides, and he, finding his efforts unavailing, soon
+followed their example.
+
+RETURN TO THE ENCAMPMENT. HANOVER BAY.
+
+Feeling however that the neighbourhood we were in was a dangerous one,
+and being anxious to know whether the party I had left at the
+encampment--only six in number--had seen these natives, I hurried our
+march, although the rain fell in torrents all day; and we that night made
+the camp.
+
+PROCEEDINGS THERE DURING MY ABSENCE.
+
+I found the party all in good health and spirits: they had seen nothing
+whatever of the natives during my absence. The sailing of the Lynher had
+been unfortunately delayed until the 21st of December. On the 18th and
+19th the tides had been so low that, although Mr. Lushington had done his
+utmost, the schooner made little or no progress in her watering. On the
+20th the crew and whole party were employed; yet they only succeeded in
+getting off 280 gallons for they were obliged to carry the water in small
+baricos to the boat, over slippery rocks and deep mud: and on the 21st,
+thinking it better to complete their water at Timor, they set sail. This
+difficulty of watering only arose from the lowness of the tides (neap)
+and our ignorance of the country. Subsequently we found no difficulty in
+procuring it; indeed no country in the world is better watered than this
+portion of Australia.
+
+Since the sailing of the Lynher the party had been actively engaged in
+building a shed for the stores. This labour was still continued, after my
+arrival, and completed on Christmas eve.
+
+CHRISTMAS DINNER.
+
+On Christmas Day we all dined together in a little booth made of boughs,
+which we dressed up as gaily as we could. I could not but feel
+considerable pleasure in seeing the happy countenances of the men ranged
+round the rough plank that formed our table. We sat down, a little band
+of nine, bound upon an adventure of which the issue to any and all of us
+was very uncertain: yet no forebodings appeared to damp the pleasure of
+the present moment; and as I anxiously looked round I could not detect
+the slightest trace of a gloomy thought in any of the cheerful faces that
+surrounded me. After dinner we drank the Queen's health, the first time
+such a toast had been given in these regions; and then, Mr. Walker and
+myself retiring to talk alone, left the rest to their own amusements.
+
+1838.
+
+PLANTING USEFUL SEEDS.
+
+The interval between that and New Year's Day found and left us full of
+occupation. On this latter day I had resolved to do homage to the country
+by a seasonable gift; and therefore, rising with the earliest dawn, spent
+the whole day in planting, in various positions, seeds of the most useful
+fruits and vegetables. Those we had already planted were doing well, and
+I hoped that this benefaction might prove one of no small value, perhaps
+to civilized man, or at least to the natives of the vicinity.
+
+WALK TO MUNSTER WATER.
+
+January 4.
+
+A party of us this day walked to Hanover Bay for the purpose of making
+some observations on the sandy beach there, after which we went over to
+Prince Regent's River, near Munster Water. The country until near the
+bank of the river at this point was of the same sandy nature as that
+about the beach: there however it improves; and from the circumstance of
+my finding a regular haunt of the natives I feel sure that there is
+plenty of fresh water in the neighbourhood. This place of their sojourn
+resembled one before described, and many others I had seen. An extensive
+circle was formed by laying a large flat stone upon the ground, and on
+each of these a smaller one; between the two they evidently crushed the
+shellfish and nuts which formed their food. Near some of the stones were
+laid huge shells for the purpose of drinking from; and in the centre of
+the circle were the marks of frequent fires. We heard the natives calling
+to one another in the woods, but saw none of them; and in the evening
+returned to our encampment.
+
+ISTHMUS NEAR HANOVER BAY.
+
+January 6.
+
+I made an excursion this day for the purpose of examining the land lying
+between Port George the Fourth and Hanover Bay: it consists of a low neck
+which connects the peninsula terminating in High Bluff Point with the
+main. Thus it is bounded on two sides by the sea, and on the other two by
+rocky hills which are perfectly precipitous, both towards the main and
+the peninsula; but a natural terrace runs along under the cliff in the
+direction of Camden Sound, which I believe would form a good road to that
+harbour. The tract thus enclosed appears to be very fertile. Porphyry and
+basalt are the common rocks. The soil is rich vegetable mould, mixed with
+gravel and covered with the most luxuriant grass. The trees were in
+general small. We only found three springs here; these however were
+sufficient to prove that it was well supplied in this respect. A species
+of plant was observed here, which in appearance and smell exactly
+resembled the jasmine of England: and it would be difficult to give any
+adequate impression of the singular sensation of pleasure derived from
+the sight of this simple emblem of home. Here were regular beaten tracks
+of the natives, as completely pathways as those we find in England
+leading from a village to a farmhouse.
+
+HILL OF SHELLS.
+
+Near the sea we also came upon a complete hill of broken shells, which it
+must have taken some centuries to form, for it covered nearly, if not
+quite, half an acre of ground, and in some places was ten feet high: it
+was situated just over a bed of cockles, and was evidently formed from
+the remains of native feasts, as their fireplaces, and the last small
+heaps of shells were visible on the summit of the hill.* This neck of
+land is undoubtedly of the first importance; for, lying as it does
+between Port George the Fourth and Hanover Bay, it commands two excellent
+harbours, and its soil is moreover highly fertile. I conceive that a
+point nearer Camden Bay would be of greater consequence to the mother
+country; but, after such a spot, this neck of land is the most important
+position on the North-west coast of Australia.
+
+(*Footnote. A similar mass of shells, though of smaller dimensions, is
+spoken of by Captain King, at Port Essington: A curious mound,
+constructed entirely of shells, rudely heaped together, measuring thirty
+feet in diameter, and fourteen feet high, was also noticed near the
+beach, and was supposed to be a burying-place of the Indians. King's
+Australia volume 1 page 87.)
+
+For some days after our return from this excursion all hands were
+occupied in drying the stores, which had suffered a little from the late
+rains; in planting barley and potatoes; and in a variety of occupations
+of the same nature.
+
+EXCURSION TO COUNTRY ABOUT PRINCE REGENT'S RIVER.
+
+As all the necessary magnetic and astronomical observations were now
+completed I seized the opportunity offered by the first favourable day
+and started with a party of three in the direction of Prince Regent's
+River.
+
+We made the river about Halfway Bay, and then followed its course,
+keeping about a mile or two inland. A considerable portion of the land in
+the neighbourhood of the river was most excellent, consisting of rich
+meadow plains. The general proportion of good country compared with the
+bad was still however but small.
+
+GOUTY-STEMMED TREES.
+
+There was a very remarkable feature in the appearance of this part of the
+country, caused by the number of gouty stemmed trees (a species of
+Capparis ?) These trees grow to a considerable height, and had the
+appearance of suffering from some disease, but, from the circumstance of
+all of them being affected in the same way, this was undoubtedly their
+natural state. I measured one of the largest I here saw, and found that
+at eighteen inches above the ground its circumference was about
+twenty-eight feet six inches.
+
+The foliage of this tree was slight but graceful, and it was loaded with
+a fruit of an elliptical form, as large as a coconut. This fruit was
+enclosed in a rind, closely resembling that of the almond, and inside the
+rind was a shell containing a soft white pulp, in which were placed a
+species of almond, very palatable to the taste, and arranged in this pulp
+much in the manner in which the seeds are placed in the pomegranate. Upon
+the bark of these trees being cut they yielded in small quantities a
+nutritious white gum, which both in taste and appearance resembles
+macaroni; and upon this bark being soaked in hot water an agreeable
+mucilaginous drink was produced.
+
+This tree is, from this combination of useful qualities, a vegetable
+production of no slight value, and probably comes near the cocoa-nut tree
+in value. Its worth is well known to the natives for its vicinity is one
+of their favourite haunts. Around nearly all of them I have found marks
+of their fires, and on many of these trees were several successive rows
+of notches, formed in this manner:
+
+All but the last row being invariably scratched out. These rows of
+notches were evidently of different ages, and I imagine must indicate the
+number of nuts taken each year from the tree.* I often also found rude
+drawings scratched upon the trees, but none of these sketches indicated
+anything but a very ordinary degree of talent, even for a savage: some
+were so imperfect that it was impossible to tell what they were meant to
+represent.
+
+(*Footnote. This tree was also observed on this part of the continent by
+Captain King, who met with it both at Cambridge Gulf and Careening Bay,
+and describes it as follows: Mr. Cunningham was fortunate in finding the
+fruit of the tree that was first seen by us at Cambridge Gulf, and had
+for some time puzzled us from its immense size and peculiar appearance.
+It proved to be a tree of the Natural Order Capparides, and was thought
+to be a Capparis; the gouty habit of the stem, which was soft and spongy,
+gave it an appearance of disease; but as all the specimens, from the
+youngest plant to the full-grown tree, possessed the same deformed
+appearance, it was evidently the peculiarity of its habit. The stem of
+the largest of these trees measured twenty-nine feet in girt, whilst its
+height did not exceed twenty-five feet. It bore some resemblance to the
+Adansonia figured in the account of Captain Tuckey's expedition to Congo.
+King's Australia volume 1 page 423.)
+
+SINGULAR PIECES OF SANDSTONE.
+
+I this day again remarked a circumstance which had before this period
+elicited my attention; which was that we occasionally found fixed in the
+boughs of trees, at a considerable height from the ground, pieces of
+sandstone, nearly circular in form, about an inch and a half in
+thickness, and from four to five in diameter, so that they resembled
+small millstones. What was the object in thus fashioning and placing
+these stones I never could conceive, for they were generally in the least
+remarkable spots: they cannot point out burial places, for I have made
+such minute searches that in such a case I must have found some of the
+bones; neither can they indicate any peculiar route through the country,
+for two never occur near one another.
+
+PREPARATION TO BUILD A BOAT.
+
+On my return to the camp I found that the schooner had not yet arrived; I
+now began to fear that some accident had occurred, and made my
+preparations accordingly. The party was fully prepared to meet such a
+misfortune and, as we had the means of constructing a boat large enough
+to take us to Swan River, I felt more anxious for the safety of those in
+the vessel than for our own. That no time however might be lost I
+examined the neighbourhood of the encampment and found that within our
+immediate vicinity were plenty of trees well adapted for the purpose,
+which I marked, and had some of them felled.
+
+
+CHAPTER 7. HANOVER BAY AND ITS VICINITY.
+
+OCCUPATION AT THE CAMP.
+
+During the absence of the schooner we had our attention fully engaged in
+forming a garden, collecting specimens, and building sheds for the
+stores. So difficult and rocky was the country we were in that I was
+employed for several days in finding a route by which unloaded horses
+could travel from the beach in Hanover Bay to the point where we were
+encamped, for the landing-place at the end of the ravine was so rocky as
+to be impracticable for that purpose. Mr. Walker at length discovered a
+pass in the cliffs, and by constructing a winding path in this he thought
+that we should be able to get loaded horses out of the valley. I feared
+that he was too sanguine, and therefore daily renewed my search in all
+directions. I travelled up the entire length of the ravine that we were
+encamped in but found that, even granting it was not flooded, we should
+find great difficulty in emerging by this route.
+
+These circumstances made me resolve upon the return of the schooner to
+re-embark the stores, and land them again either upon a point I had fixed
+upon on the south bank of Prince Regent's River, or upon the neck of land
+I have before mentioned, which lay between Port George the Fourth and
+Hanover Bay; but I could not finally decide upon either of the points
+until the return of the vessel should enable me to examine the coast
+between Port George the Fourth and Camden Sound; for my party only
+consisted of nine men, of whom with the exception of three or four I knew
+nothing, and after what I had seen of the treacherous disposition of the
+natives I did not think, in my position, it would be prudent to absent
+myself from them for any length of time.
+
+RETURN OF THE LYNHER.
+
+Amidst such exciting and busy scenes, the time flew rapidly away until
+the 17th of January, when about 11 A.M. the report of a carronade came
+echoing up the valley. This was the preconcerted signal which was to
+announce to us that the vessel was safely at anchor in Hanover Bay. We
+were of course all anxiety to hear an account of their adventures, and to
+ascertain whether the horses were safe. I hastened directly to the
+landing-place, where I met Mr. Lushington and a party coming ashore from
+the schooner.
+
+RELATION OF PROCEEDINGS AT KUPANG TIMOR AND ROTI.
+
+The following outline of their transactions was soon given:
+
+They had quitted Hanover Bay on the 21st December at 9 A.M., and reached
+Kupang in the Island of Timor on the 1st of January. For the first three
+days until they got clear of the land they had every evening, soon after
+sunset, heavy squalls from the north-east, accompanied with thunder,
+lightning, and rain; the prevalent wind was however from the north-west.
+The Lynher remained at Kupang until the 7th, during which time they
+completed their water and collected coconuts, bread-fruit trees, etc., to
+be planted in Australia; but as Mr. Lushington found that he should be
+able more easily to obtain ponies at the island of Roti than at Kupang,
+they sailed on the morning of the 7th for that place, and at 7 P.M. came
+to in the harbour of Rougun in eleven fathoms water, with muddy bottom.
+
+They were enabled to procure at Roti the requisite number of horses by
+the evening of the 11th of January. The people of this island appeared to
+be excessively ignorant, knew but little of the nature and value of
+money, and were much astonished when they were shown a watch. Their
+favourite mode of disposing of their property was by barter; the articles
+they prized most were muskets and coarse gunpowder, but they preferred
+having the gunpowder in a claret bottle, as if this was considered by
+them to be some definite measure which bore a certain value. They were
+not very particular about the quality of the muskets provided their
+outward form and appearance were tolerably good. I have since ascertained
+that the natives of the little-frequented islands of the Archipelago
+invariably prefer an old musket to a new one, as they conceive a totally
+new one may be unsafe, from having been made merely for the purpose of
+sale; whilst one which has seen service has been indisputably
+manufactured for use. If they entertain any doubt about the goodness of a
+musket they generally insist upon the seller's firing it off.
+
+MODE OF BARTER AT ROTI.
+
+The people of Roti are not allowed to fix themselves what is to be the
+price of their horses; all the details of the sale are settled by an
+assemblage of chiefs: their constant cry in bartering (if anything else
+is offered to them) is "schnapper, schnapper" (a musket, a musket). They
+refused at first to take percussion guns in exchange, but when they saw
+Captain Browse cock one of these, pour a quantity of water over the lock,
+and fire it off, their astonishment knew no bounds, and they then eagerly
+bartered for them. When they found that all the muskets were exhausted
+they were content to take money and other articles in lieu: an old dress
+waistcoat of mine and a regulation breastplate procured eight small
+sheep; and Captain Browse got fourteen goats for a pair of old pistols.
+The authorities give every encouragement to the trader; but the duties
+exacted are high, for at Kupang and Roti they demand six rupees duty for
+every horse exported, or musket imported. Arms and gunpowder are no
+longer considered contraband.
+
+The inhabitants of Roti were described as being so indolent that it was
+almost impossible to induce them to do anything: although every means
+were used to tempt them to cut a sufficient quantity of fodder for the
+ponies on their passage they constantly delayed doing so and, Mr.
+Lushington's patience being at last worn out, the vessel put to sea on
+the 12th of January 1838.
+
+NEW ISLAND DISCOVERED.
+
+On the 13th they sighted the Hibernian shoal which they made in 11
+degrees 57 minutes south latitude and 123 degrees 22 minutes 30 seconds
+east longitude. On Monday 15th of January at 10 P.M. they discovered an
+island, thus described in the log of the Lynher:
+
+At 10 hours 30 minutes P.M. saw land about a quarter of a mile ahead;
+hauled our wind to west by south; sounded in 12 fathoms water, rocky
+bottom; it appeared to be about one mile in extent, and about twenty feet
+above the water. After running west by south one mile, got no bottom with
+40 fathoms of line. Kept our course south by east: it (the island)
+appeared to be quite level with rocks extending to north-west, with heavy
+breakers. Made it by observation south latitude 14 degrees 4 minutes;
+east longitude 123 degrees 31 minutes by good chronometer rated at Roti.
+
+TROUBLE WITH THE HORSES.
+
+At 6 A.M. on the morning of the 16th they experienced heavy squalls of
+wind off Red Island, and this prevented them from getting into Hanover
+Bay on that day; but on the morning of the 17th they anchored safely,
+without having lost a single pony, or without having experienced any
+serious misfortune, having made the passage from Roti in five days.
+
+UNFORESEEN EMBARRASSMENTS.
+
+Some short time was occupied in narrating the adventures we had
+respectively encountered since we had last seen one another, and in
+giving way to the pleasure arising from meeting again in so distant a
+land, and under such circumstances: at last came the unpleasant
+announcement that there was not an atom of forage on board, so that the
+ponies must of necessity be landed tomorrow; and my plans of disembarking
+them at a more eligible site were thus at once overthrown. Being the only
+person who knew the route to Hanover Bay from the encampment, I was
+obliged to remain on shore to guide the party over there the next
+morning. Mr. Lushington and the Captain however returned on board to make
+preparations for landing the horses at daybreak.
+
+LANDING THE HORSES.
+
+I lay down to sleep this night oppressed with very uneasy thoughts. I was
+thoroughly convinced that the position we occupied was a bad one to make
+a start from; but we had already approached too near the season of the
+heaviest rains (the beginning of February) to allow of longer delay, so
+that to have landed the horses, then to cut grass for them, and
+afterwards to have re-embarked them and the stores, would, in my opinion,
+have been a tedious and wrong course to adopt. Unforeseen difficulties,
+and against which we could not have guarded, had already completely
+encompassed us, so that, considering the scanty means at our disposal,
+the remote and unknown region in which we were situated, and the
+impossibility of our receiving further aid from any quarter, I saw no way
+of overcoming them. All therefore that was now left us was to make the
+most of our actual means, to acquit ourselves like men, and do our
+utmost.
+
+EXCURSION BY WATER TO PRINCE REGENT'S RIVER.
+
+January 18.
+
+Fortune smiled on us this morning in as far as she gave us a fine
+daybreak, and at dawn we started for Hanover Bay, leaving a small party
+at the encampment. After all the trouble I had taken to find a good route
+for the horses, we still had a great deal to do to render it at all
+practicable; we however all worked cheerfully and sturdily away at
+burning the grass, moving rocks and fallen trees, etc., and thus, as it
+were, fought our way through opposing obstacles to Hanover Bay, over a
+distance of about four miles.
+
+TROUBLE IN GETTING THE HORSES TO THE CAMP.
+
+On arriving there I found Mr. Lushington already on shore and some of the
+horses disembarked. They were not only well selected for the purpose, but
+were generally in good condition. They had however two faults which could
+not have been avoided, and these were that they were very small and
+perfectly wild. By about two o'clock in the afternoon the whole
+twenty-six had been swum ashore, and we started for the huts.
+
+Our progress was however slow; for, as there were only a few of us, each
+person was obliged to take charge of three or four of these untamed,
+unbroken brutes. The mode we adopted was to fasten them together by long
+ropes so that the number each man led could follow in a line; but, being
+wholly unused to this kind of discipline, they strenuously resisted it,
+biting and kicking at one another with the greatest ferocity; and as they
+were chiefly very courageous little entire horses, a variety of spirited
+contests took place, much to their own satisfaction, but to my infinite
+chagrin. Some of the men who were not much accustomed to horses regarded
+these wild ponies as being but little better than savage monsters, with
+whom it was dangerous to have anything to do; and, being thus rather
+afraid of them, treated them very cruelly, kicking them often with great
+violence whenever I for a moment looked away, and thus naturally
+rendering the ponies still more wild.
+
+But even when we did induce these brutes to move along pacifically they
+would not follow one another in a line, but all strove to go in different
+directions, and, as our road lay through a rocky forest, the consequence
+of this pulling was that the connecting ropes kept on getting entangled
+in rocks and trees; indeed there was scarcely an instance of two of them
+passing on the same side of a tree or rock at the first attempt, so that
+we were continually halting to clear their tether ropes; again, one of
+the beasts would now and then become obstinate, refuse to move, and this
+delayed us all; for I would not allow the party to separate for fear of
+the natives. In consequence of all these adverse circumstances at sunset
+we had scarcely got half-way to the encampment; and just at this period
+one pony became and remained so obstinate that, in despair, I had it tied
+up to a tree alone. We now moved on again as fast as we could, but night
+soon surprised us, and, when it became too dark to see our course, we
+tethered our horses and laid down in the forest by them; but as it
+rained, and we had neither warm clothes nor covering, and many of the
+party had tasted nothing since dawn, our situation was not very pleasant;
+indeed, the combined circumstances of cold, hunger, and obstinate ponies
+had rendered some of the men more crabbed than I had ever before seen
+them.
+
+January 19.
+
+As soon as it was light enough to find the ponies we recommenced our
+march; and, all our annoyances of yesterday being repeated, did not
+succeed in arriving at the ravine until noon--it took us much care and a
+great deal of time to reach the bottom of this in safety; when however we
+had done so, we knee-haltered the ponies and let them loose amidst very
+good feed, of which they now stood much in need, for there was no grass
+whatever between the encampment and Hanover Bay; the whole of the
+intervening country being a mass of rock, scrub, and spinifex. I now sent
+a party back to bring on the refractory pony, which I had yesterday been
+obliged to tie up to a tree, and the long fast it had been subjected to
+appeared to have produced a very beneficial effect on its temper, for it
+now was perfectly docile.
+
+EXCURSION UP PRINCE REGENT'S RIVER. PREPARATIONS FOR MOVING.
+
+For the next few days all was bustle and preparation. The ponies being so
+much smaller than I had expected, all our packsaddles had to be altered,
+and fourteen of them, which the party had made during the absence of the
+schooner, still had to be put together. Mr. Walker undertook the task of
+constructing a pathway up the cliffs, by means of which the loaded ponies
+could ascend; he laboured personally at making this path, occasionally
+assisted by two or three others; and it would be impossible for anyone
+who had not seen it at all to comprehend the obstacles he met with, and
+the perseverance with which he contended against and finally overcame
+them. We were obliged to complete everything in a hurried and
+unsatisfactory manner, for our departure had been so long delayed that we
+were every day in expectation of the setting in of the heavy rains and
+the consequent flooding of the ravine in which we were encamped; and in
+the event of this taking place before we made a start it was impossible
+to foresee for how long a period our movements might be delayed.
+
+CHARACTER OF ITS SHORES.
+
+On Monday the 22nd Captain Browse and Mr. Walker accompanied me in the
+jolly-boat up Prince Regent's River; we went up with the flood-tide,
+entering the river by its northern mouth; I had thus an opportunity of
+examining the island which lies at the entrance to this great arm of the
+sea, and landed upon it in several places, but found only bad sandy land,
+occasionally covered with rocks; it was however well wooded and abounded
+with birds. After we had passed the mouth of Rothsay Water the tide swept
+us along with great rapidity, and we soon found ourselves in St. George's
+Basin. I kept close along the northern shore, where we saw but little
+good land after entering the basin; but there was one fertile island, of
+a small conical shape, bearing nearly due east as you enter. From the
+appearance of this island there can be no doubt whatever that it is of
+volcanic origin; as it in all respects resembles Mount Lyell and the
+other basaltic conical hills which we afterwards found in the fertile
+district of Glenelg; we did not however land on it, but merely ran close
+by, and then continued our route up the river.
+
+St. George's Basin is a noble sheet of water some ten or twelve miles
+across. On its southern side deep inlets run up into a low and marshy
+country, leading to fertile districts, and the main object of my present
+excursion was to endeavour to identify these inlets with some I had seen
+on my first trip to the southward.
+
+SCENERY AND THUNDERSTORM.
+
+On the northern bank lofty mountains, crowned with castellated summits,
+rear their sterile heads over the broad waters, and fling their giant
+shadows on the bosom of the basin, forming a scene of surpassing beauty.
+
+We had entered the more contracted channel of the river, when there came
+on a tremendous squall of wind, rain, thunder, and most vivid lightning.
+The pealing echoes of the thunder as they bounded from height to height
+and from cliff to cliff was awfully magnificent; whilst the rugged
+mountains which had just before looked golden in the bright light of the
+setting sun were now shrouded in gloomy mists, and capped with dark
+clouds from which issued incessant and dazzling flashes of lightning.
+
+During this grand and terrific elemental convulsion our little boat was
+driven powerless before the blast. The impenetrable forests of mangroves
+which clothed the riverbanks obliging us to run far up the stream until
+at last a convenient opening enabled us to land upon the southern shore.
+
+DELUSIVE APPEARANCE ON THE ROCKS.
+
+We had not long landed when the rain ceased and, as we found several
+natural caverns in the rock and plenty of dead mangrove trees, we
+proceeded to make ourselves comfortable for the night; but the men soon
+reported that they saw the smoke of a native fire close to us, and
+Captain Browse and myself, under the conviction that such was the case,
+darted with Mr. Walker to endeavour to gain an interview. But, as we
+proceeded over the rocks, the smoke appeared gradually to retire, always
+keeping about the same distance from us: and we at last ascertained that
+what had appeared to us to be smoke was nothing but the rising vapour
+occasioned by the cold rain falling on sandstone rocks, which had during
+the whole day been exposed to the burning rays of a tropical sun.
+
+We had now become so much accustomed to sleeping without any covering,
+and upon hard rocks, that we should not have minded our exposure had it
+not been for the rain which fell during the night and beat in under the
+rocks, beneath which we had crept for shelter. The cold air of the
+morning awoke us long before daylight; and Mr. Walker and myself, having
+explored the country to the southward and climbed a high hill from which
+we had an extensive view, we started on our return to the schooner. In
+proceeding down the river we landed on an island, situate at the
+south-eastern extremity of St. George's Basin, just where the river runs
+into it. The presence of large dead trees on this island, which had
+evidently been swept down the river in the time of floods and washed up
+far above the usual water-mark, showed that Prince Regent's River is
+subject to the same sudden inundations as all other rivers in Australia
+which I have seen. During our passage down the river we saw no extent of
+good land in any one place.
+
+STATE OF THE STOCK.
+
+For the next few days we had almost uninterrupted bad weather. The party
+were all occupied in preparing the saddles, etc. The ponies having eaten
+off the grass in the ravine, we were compelled, about the 28th, to move
+them to the higher grounds. These at our first arrival on this coast were
+perfectly dry and burnt up; but since the heavy rains had set in they
+teemed with running springs, along the margins of which grew a scanty
+coating of grass. Being obliged to send the horses to a distance to graze
+delayed us a great deal for one portion of our party was occupied in
+attending upon them. Our sheep also now began to die off: they had up to
+this time improved rapidly and were doing very well, having, during the
+absence of the vessel, been regularly tended and driven to the high dry
+ground to feed; but now the pressure of business was so great that we
+were compelled in some degree to neglect them, and from this they
+suffered. The goats had from some cause never succeeded well.
+
+From the period of their being landed many of the horses had declined
+very much, and several of them were by this time reduced to a very weakly
+state. This originated from the heavy rains and the excessive cold which
+accompanied them, as well as from some food they had eaten which had not
+agreed with them. On the 28th and 29th the rains increased in violence
+and duration; but we still continued our occupations of completing the
+packsaddles and arranging the stores in such small packages that they
+could easily in case of necessity be transported on men's shoulders.
+
+FINAL ARRANGEMENTS FOR THE MARCH.
+
+Having provided every requisite for the party, such as food, working
+utensils, soap, tobacco, etc., all of which were arranged in their
+respective packages, I issued an order that nothing but certain articles
+of clothing for each individual were to be put upon the ponies. This step
+was rendered the more necessary from their weakness and their diminutive
+size having greatly abridged our intended means of transport. Numerous
+requests were now made to me to be allowed to put various articles upon
+the horses, all of which I felt myself obliged to meet by a steady
+refusal; but this refusal, dictated entirely by the necessity of the
+case, raised angry and discontented feelings, tending to diminish
+materially the individual zeal and energy which were so much required at
+this juncture to ensure our success.
+
+DEPARTURE FOR THE INTERIOR. DIFFICULTIES OF THE ROUTE.
+
+On the 29th we began in the afternoon to load our horses. Mr. Walker's
+pathway was completed by means of a number of circuitous and sharp
+turnings: it led directly up the face of cliffs which were almost
+precipitous and 180 feet in height. To commemorate the completion of this
+really laborious undertaking I named the valley Walker's Valley.
+
+TROUBLESOME ASCENT FROM THE VALLEY. SICKNESS AND MORTALITY AMONG THE
+HORSES AND STOCK.
+
+The ponies, though weak, bore their burdens and submitted to the
+packsaddles better than I had hoped. The first horse was led up by the
+stock-keeper in safety, with its saddle and load on it; I followed with
+the second, but was not so fortunate. I had accomplished about
+three-fourths of the ascent when, turning one of the sharp corners round
+a rock, the load struck against it and knocked the horse over on its
+side. I thought for a moment that the poor beast would have fallen down
+the precipice, but luckily its roll was checked in time to prevent this.
+There it lay however on a flat rock, four or five feet wide, a precipice
+of 150 feet on one side of it, and the projecting rock against which it
+had struck on the other, whilst I sat upon its head to prevent it from
+moving. Its long tail streamed in the wind over the precipice; its wild
+and fiery eye gleamed from its shaggy mane and forelock; and, ignorant of
+its impending danger, it kicked and struggled violently, whilst it
+appeared to hang in mid-air over the gloomy depth of this tropical
+ravine. Anxious as I felt for the safety of my pony I could not be
+unconscious of the singular beauty of the scene during the few minutes
+that elapsed whilst I was repressing its struggles on a narrow ledge of
+rock, of which the dark brow projected threateningly above me, whilst the
+noise of a rushing torrent was audible far below. I cut the girths of the
+saddle, which then with its load rolled over the precipice, and pitched
+with a heavy crash on a rock far down. Even then, if the brute had not
+been a denizen of a wild and mountainous country, it must have been lost;
+but now it no sooner felt itself freed from its encumbrance than, looking
+sagaciously around and then raising itself cautiously up, it stood
+trembling by my side upon the narrow terrace.
+
+Warned by this misfortune we managed to make another turn in the path, by
+which this awkward rock was avoided, and the remainder of the horses,
+with their loads, reached the tableland in safety. But so rocky was this
+country that, even after having mastered the ascent, we found great
+difficulty in getting the loaded ponies half a mile further to a point I
+had fixed on for our camp. We had this night a continued succession of
+heavy showers, accompanied with thunder and lightning.
+
+January 30.
+
+This morning it was reported to me that several sheep were dead, and that
+the horses were beginning to suffer much from constant exposure to the
+heavy cold rains, for the trees were so small, and their foliage so
+slight, that they afforded no shelter whatever from tropical showers. On
+repairing to the ravine I found that the stream which even yesterday was
+much swollen had now become an impetuous torrent, so much so that even to
+swim across it was not an easy matter. A tree was soon felled and a
+temporary foot-bridge thus formed; and as the rain cleared off a little
+towards the afternoon we managed, in this interval of fine weather, to
+load the ponies and carry some stores up the cliffs, but the poor beasts
+were so much weakened since yesterday that we were obliged to diminish
+their loads considerably. They all appeared to be gradually declining in
+health, strength, and condition, but from what cause except exposure I
+could not tell.
+
+IMPEDIMENTS FROM BAD WEATHER.
+
+January 31.
+
+During last night we had heavy storms, the torrent was still more swollen
+and, although we laboured hard all day, we accomplished very little;
+several sheep died during the day, and the ponies appeared to be worse. I
+became now very anxious as to the result of the expedition; my worst
+apprehensions as to the rainy season setting in before we had got clear
+of the sandstone ranges had already been fully realized; every endeavour
+to hasten our preparations and to prevent this occurrence had been used,
+though unsuccessfully; it appeared now the better course to bear up
+against evils that could not be avoided than to lose time in murmuring; I
+therefore kept all hands constantly employed in doing something which
+might tend to accelerate our departure.
+
+HEAVY RAINS.
+
+February 1.
+
+We again had heavy and incessant rain throughout Wednesday night,
+accompanied by thunder and lightning. At daylight the stock-keeper came
+to report to me that two horses, three sheep, and one goat were dead, and
+that several other horses appeared to be in a very dangerous state. All
+our stores with the exception of a few articles had now been removed from
+the valley in which we had first encamped; some of our goats were still
+left there, but the torrent had become so rapid and impetuous that it had
+swept away the bridge and was now impassable. Heavy rains fell throughout
+the greater portion of the day, and produced a beautiful effect in the
+ravines, for cascades were pouring over the cliffs on each side, sweeping
+every now and then before them massive pieces of rock, the crash of which
+in their fall echoed loudly through the valleys.
+
+FURTHER LOSS OF STOCK.
+
+February 2.
+
+Bad news came again this morning--the stock-keeper met me with a very
+rueful countenance to report that another horse and two sheep had just
+been found dead, and that several more sheep were missing. It still
+rained so heavily that we could not attempt to move, for already a
+considerable portion of our stores was damaged by the water which had
+filled the ditch, and regularly flooded the tent in which they were
+placed.
+
+Mr. Walker started with me for the purpose of marking off a road to the
+place we next intended to halt at, for the country was so rocky that it
+was necessary to choose a path with the greatest caution, or we should
+soon have become embarrassed in precipitous places which the horses could
+not have traversed. Whilst I was thus engaged Mr. Lushington and two men
+made another unsuccessful attempt to get the goats and remaining stores
+across the stream.
+
+WEAKNESS AND OBSTINACY OF THE PONIES.
+
+February 3.
+
+This morning the rain had somewhat abated: the remaining stores were
+brought from the ravine, and the goats were swum across; in the meantime
+the ponies were brought up and loaded, and all preparations were at last
+made for a start: but a host of new difficulties arose; many of the
+ponies were found to be in such a weakly state that they could with great
+difficulty carry any weight at all. We were obliged to make a totally new
+division of the stores, and to select and put aside what articles we
+could best leave behind. These preparations occupied a considerable time,
+but we at last moved off in a south-east direction. Our progress was
+however very slow and tedious; the ponies, though lightly loaded, were so
+reduced that the slightest obstacle made many fall from weakness, whilst
+others laid down from obstinacy, and the men being inexperienced in
+re-fixing the loads, each horse that fell delayed us considerably. At
+last so many were down at one time that I advanced with such as were able
+to move to a point distant not more than half a mile, where I halted for
+the night; and, having unloaded and tethered these horses, we returned to
+assist the others, and after a great deal of difficulty got the remainder
+of the weak ponies safe to the encampment.
+
+I slept but little this night for I doubted whether, with our cattle so
+enfeebled and so out of condition, we should ever succeed in penetrating
+any distance into the country. We were still a considerable way from the
+fertile plains I had seen to the southward, whilst the intervening ground
+was very difficult to travel across and afforded no good feed for the
+ponies. All my meditations however only terminated in the conviction that
+it was my duty to continue to use my best exertions under such adverse
+circumstances.
+
+February 4.
+
+There being no good grass for the horses where we were, I was obliged to
+move the party and commenced by using every method I could to lighten the
+loads and to rid the expedition of all encumbrances. I left here a male
+and female goat who, by their obstinacy, delayed our movements; thinking
+also that, if they escaped the natives, their offspring might become a
+valuable acquisition to this land.
+
+We also left here 28 pounds of gunpowder, 10 pounds of ball cartridges,
+70 pounds of shot, 200 pounds of preserved meat, some carpenters' tools,
+and many other useful articles; yet, notwithstanding this decrease in the
+loads of the ponies, the country we had to travel through was so bad that
+we only completed two miles in the course of the day; and yet to find the
+track by which we did succeed in crossing the range had cost me many
+successive hours' walking under a burning sun. The character of the
+country we passed through was the same as these sandstone ranges always
+present; namely, sandy scrubby plains, and low ranges of ruinous, rocky
+hills, in trying to scramble over which the ponies received numerous and
+severe falls. We however had a very beautiful halting-place, shaded by
+lofty pines and affording fair feed for the animals.
+
+NEW PLAN OF MOVEMENTS.
+
+February 5.
+
+On this morning it was reported to me that several of the ponies were in
+a dying state, and that none of them would be again able to carry even
+such light loads as they had hitherto done; the quantity of stores they
+could now convey was quite inadequate to supply a party of the strength
+we were obliged to move with for any great length of time. A new plan of
+operations was thus forced upon me, and I now resolved to proceed as
+follows:
+
+To advance with half our stores to a convenient place for encamping at,
+and then, on the succeeding day, to send back some of the party with the
+ponies for the remaining portion of the provisions; whilst, accompanied
+by two men, I marked off the road by which we were to move on the
+following day. This mode of proceeding would not very much delay our
+movements; for the country we were at present in was of so intricate a
+nature that it was impossible to move loaded horses without previously
+marking a road for them; and by its adoption I trusted to be able to
+establish a depot of provisions at some point distant from the coast and
+whence we could yet make a good start in a southerly direction.
+
+LABOUR OF TRACING ROUTE.
+
+In pursuance of this plan Mr. Lushington returned this day to our last
+camp to bring up the provisions we had abandoned; whilst I went off with
+two men to endeavour to pick out a route by which the ponies could
+travel. A more toilsome day's work than we had could not be imagined. For
+eleven hours I was incessantly walking, exposed during the greater part
+of the time to the burning rays of a tropical sun; and we found nothing
+but rocky, almost impassable sandstone ranges and precipitous ravines. I
+however at last succeeded in discovering a path along which it was just
+possible we might be able, by using great care, to lead loaded horses;
+and on my return to the camp I found that all the remaining stores had
+been brought up.
+
+DESCENT INTO A VALLEY.
+
+February 6.
+
+We began our descent this morning from the tableland into a deep valley,
+following the track we had yesterday marked off, which was still however
+so rugged and rocky as to be very difficult to get along. Heavy rains set
+in, and these were always so cold that the large drops falling upon us
+Occasioned quite a painful sensation. The valleys being all flooded there
+was no feed in them for the horses and sheep; I therefore was obliged to
+send them back under charge of Mr. Lushington to the camp, which we had
+this morning quitted.
+
+I retained three men with me; and after the remainder of the party had
+moved off I left two of them in charge of the stores, and started with
+Corporal Coles, again to explore the country in front of us.
+
+CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY. FLOODED RAVINE.
+
+About half a mile to the south there was a deep ravine, bounded on each
+side by lofty cliffs. This ravine resembled in many respects the one we
+had first encamped in, but it was larger; and it was now impossible to
+travel either up or down in it on account of the great body of water
+which occupied its bed. Just opposite to where we were this ravine
+separated into three smaller ones, running up into the sandstone ranges
+along which I had previously sought for a route whereby to turn and
+travel round their heads; but I had found the country so rocky, so
+impracticable, and devoid of forage that I felt sure it was useless to
+attempt to traverse it.
+
+My next object was to find a passage out of the main ravine, between the
+points where the subsidiary ravines ran into it, and where it joined the
+sea. If I could succeed in doing this our difficulties would, in a great
+measure, have terminated, for no other main ravine lay between us and the
+fertile plains which I had seen to the southward; and I knew that we
+should find no difficulty in traversing the intervening sandstone range,
+which consisted of a series of elevated plains or terraces, rising one
+behind the other.
+
+With this view Coles and myself searched until after sunset, but without
+success. We found the ravine bounded throughout its southern side by
+inaccessible cliffs. Occasionally little branch ravines ran into it; but
+on penetrating for some distance up these they invariably terminated in
+precipitous cascades. A great portion of this afternoon was spent up to
+our middles in water as we waded about the flooded valley; and the only
+thing we had to compensate us for the fatigue and suffering we underwent
+was the wild beauty of the scenery, which was as lovely and picturesque
+as impetuous torrents, foaming cascades, lofty rocks, and a rich tropical
+vegetation could render it.
+
+NATIVES.
+
+On our return homewards, wearied and disappointed, we came close upon a
+large party of natives before they were aware of our presence. Coles had
+followed me up the northern bank of the ravine, and we thus occupied a
+good position; the natives had, I suppose, wished to avoid us, for we saw
+no more of them, but merely heard the sound of their retiring voices as
+they moved up the centre of the valley. We now returned to the men we had
+left in charge of the stores, and reached the tent soon after dark.
+
+LABOUR OF TRACING AND FORMING A PATH.
+
+February 7.
+
+This day was passed in constructing the pathway which was to lead us down
+into the deep ravine in our front. Whilst the men were thus engaged I
+traversed the country I had yesterday visited in the hope that I might
+yet find some outlet into the good country which would take us clear of
+the others; but my searches were in vain. Only one man accompanied me,
+and I completely knocked him up ere the evening closed in upon us. We
+then were obliged to retrace our steps to the camp, and I now found
+myself perfectly worn out by the fatigue consequent on such continued and
+violent walking exercise under a tropical sun.
+
+It was however cheering to me to see how constantly some of the men had
+laboured at forming the road down the valleys which led into the ravine.
+The horses had been brought down thus far; but three more of them had
+died, so that our twenty-six ponies were reduced to nineteen, many of
+whom were in wretched condition.
+
+CONTINUED DIFFICULTIES OF ROUTE.
+
+February 8.
+
+We again resumed our journey towards the interior; but the pathway, which
+ran through the valleys leading to the summit of the ravine, was still so
+broken and difficult that the ponies could only carry half loads along
+it; and the descent down the clifTs was so steep that they were obliged
+to be unladen and led into the ravine without their burdens, which were
+carried down upon the men's shoulders. Men could not have behaved better
+than they all did on this occasion, particularly Corporal Auger who,
+possessing the power of carrying on his back very heavy burdens, took
+every occasion of exercising it in such a way as to stimulate the others,
+and very much to accelerate our movements.
+
+But even when we had with so much labour got ponies, stores, etc. to the
+bottom of the ravine, our troubles had, as it were, only commenced, for
+we now had to get out of it on the other side. In the course of the
+afternoon however a path had been made, and most of the stores were
+safely stowed upon an elevated tableland where we had pitched the tents.
+The place I had chosen for our camp was a pretty spot; a sweet, short
+herbage had been raised by the heavy rains from the sandy soil, and
+amongst this the beauteous flowers, for which Australia is deservedly
+celebrated, were so scattered and intermixed that they gave the country
+an enamelled appearance. A lofty species of Casuarina was intermingled
+with trees of a denser foliage, and on each side we looked down into two
+deep ravines; through the dense dark foliage of which could be seen the
+white foaming waters brawling on their way far below.
+
+The next day was occupied in bringing up the remainder of the stores from
+the ravine and repairing the damages which had resulted from the bursting
+of bags and other mischief in their transit over such rough ground. Early
+in the morning we all had a good bathe, and only those who have been so
+constantly engaged under a burning sun, and for upwards of a week without
+regularly washing or undressing, can at all estimate the pleasure with
+which I plunged into the clear and rapid stream.
+
+ASCENT FROM THE RAVINE.
+
+After thus performing our ablutions we breakfasted, and then, whilst the
+stores were being conveyed to the tableland, I started, accompanied by
+one man, to explore a route for our line of march next day. After
+continuing on the tableland for about a mile I traced a good route both
+into and out of another ravine; the stream which occupied the bed of this
+was so swollen that I had some difficulty in finding a ford across it;
+but after a few rather ludicrous plunges and falls upon the green
+slippery rocks I succeeded in detecting a tolerably good one. Our line of
+route now lay across some elevated open plains, clothed with spinifex,
+and thinly wooded with a large species of Eucalyptus. We saw here
+numerous signs of the natives, who had been cutting steps in the trees
+for the purpose of hunting opossums. These open plains extended for about
+two miles, and we then reached another small ravine, with a rapid stream
+running through it. A very good route brought us across this slight
+descent and stream; and from this point no further impediment of any
+consequence appeared to lie in our way. The direction in which I now
+wished to travel presented a series of rocky, sandy plains, thinly
+wooded, and affording a scanty sufficiency of food for the ponies.
+
+EXHAUSTION FROM FATIGUE. COLD RAINS.
+
+During the time I was searching for this route the rain had fallen in
+torrents, and the quantity of ground I had walked over was so
+considerable that I was exhausted; riding was quite impossible in these
+excursions as, in many places where the ground was covered with loose
+rocks overgrown with a vegetation which concealed treacherous cavities,
+it was necessary to pass across it two or three times before I could
+determine whether a horse could move over it or not. Today I found myself
+completely knocked up, and felt certain that I could not for many days
+longer bear up against such continued fatigues. On my return to the camp
+I found all prepared for a start tomorrow; but many of the horses were so
+ill as to be incapable of carrying more than half a load.
+
+February 10.
+
+We moved off at daybreak and, having reached the ravine, set to work to
+form a pathway down the descent, and up the ascent on the other side,
+under the additional disadvantage of heavy rain. The sudden transition
+from the rays of a burning sun to this cold bath made my teeth chatter as
+if I had a tertian ague. When half our work was completed we breakfasted
+in the beautiful ravine amidst the dark luxuriant vegetation of the
+tropics, formed by the pandanus, bamboo, and palm.
+
+After breakfast the men recommenced their labour on the road. About two
+P.M. it was completed, and we then loaded the ponies and set out. The
+poor animals were however so weak that it was almost impossible to get
+them to move; they stumbled and fell repeatedly, and thus thereby not
+only injured themselves but so delayed our movements that we only made
+three miles and a half during the day, and then halted for the night on
+very elevated land, and in a good position, for we were on a little sandy
+rise, along the base of which ran a stream, distant about one hundred
+yards.
+
+WORST DIFFICULTIES SURMOUNTED.
+
+Having thus gained the elevated plains I laid down to sleep, satisfied
+that the worst of our labours were over; yet I could not but recollect
+that it had taken us ten days to reach a spot which by the proper route
+was only a short day's journey from the valley we were first encamped in,
+and that in our march through the country we had been compelled to
+traverse we had lost seven ponies, and injured many of those remaining;
+all these difficulties arose from our departure having been delayed so
+long that the rains had set in and so flooded the country that we could
+not proceed by the proper route.
+
+
+CHAPTER 8. TO THE GLENELG RIVER.
+
+MEETING AND ENCOUNTER WITH THE NATIVES.
+
+February 11.
+
+The stores we had left behind yesterday were so necessary to us that I
+was fearful they might be injured or destroyed if left exposed in the
+bush beyond today, and therefore despatched a party under Mr. Lushington
+for them.
+
+Some time after they were gone I started from the encampment on foot,
+with the intention of choosing a track for our route next day, as well as
+of endeavouring to fall in with my former track in this direction; for by
+so doing I should be enabled to get the party on the good land without
+further impediment, and at the same time to complete my map of this part
+of the country.
+
+GATHERING OF NATIVES ABOUT THE CAMP.
+
+I was accompanied by Corporal Coles and a fine-looking young man about
+twenty years of age, from the Cape of Good Hope, leaving three men at the
+camp. Soon after my departure these men heard the voices of natives in
+the woods, and presently they appeared themselves in numbers which
+rapidly increased until there were collected together about two hundred
+men, women, and children. The party at the tents instantly got under
+arms, and posted themselves on the brow of the hill on which our tents
+stood; whilst at some distance from its base, and on the opposite side of
+the stream, the natives were assembled.
+
+The advance of a large armed body from the woods seemed now to indicate
+that a hostile movement was about to be made; one of my party therefore
+shouted out to them in a threatening tone, motioning to them at the same
+time to go away. The natives immediately answered the shout, then halted,
+and, after apparently consulting together for some time, retired a
+little. The party at the tents simultaneously took counsel together and,
+agreeing that it would be imprudent in their small number to hold
+intercourse, under the existing circumstances, with so large a body of
+natives, it was resolved not to allow them to approach beyond a certain
+point, and, in the event of any armed portion passing the stream towards
+the tents in disregard of their signals, then to fire on them one by one.
+
+PROCEEDINGS AT THE CAMP.
+
+In the meantime the women and little children moved round the hill,
+examining everything with the most intense delight: a pony which was in
+front of the camp more particularly excited their attention; the little
+children laughed loudly at it, and appeared also to laugh at the party
+themselves, regarding them much the same way that little boys do a
+stranger in foreign costume when he appears in the streets of a country
+village in England. The native men regarded the pony more seriously; they
+walked round and round, examining it carefully, and when the little
+stallion, becoming playful from these marks of attention, neighed, put
+down his head, and prepared to fight and kick vigorously, they all beat a
+precipitate retreat.
+
+The party at the tents overlooked all their movements and heard every
+word that was uttered. They describe the language this people spoke as
+clear, distinct, and agreeable to the ear; the men they observed to be a
+fine race, tall and athletic: two were remarked in particular, one of
+whom was very tall, and had his forehead and face painted with white
+(their sign of mourning, and that there is a death to avenge) whilst the
+other was of a far lighter shade of colour than the rest, and these two
+appeared to direct the general movements.
+
+After some time distant shouts were heard from other natives in the
+direction in which my party had seen me go; and a large body of the
+native men instantly hurried off in that quarter, headed by the tall man
+and the light-coloured one I have just mentioned. Then ensued a pause of
+about two hours, during which the native women and children wandered
+about in the distance, conversing in groups: suddenly was heard shouts,
+as of distress, from the same quarter, which were answered by the natives
+in front of the camp, when all moved off in a hurried manner and were
+seen there no more. But in the interim another scene connected with this
+had been passing at a distance.
+
+EVENTS IN TRACING A ROAD.
+
+On quitting the camp in the morning I and my two companions traversed for
+some time portions of the elevated sandstone plains which I had passed on
+a former occasion; and, after an hour's walking through the gloomy
+stringy-bark forest which covered them, we reached a stream of water
+running in a shallow valley; and as there was a bad route down to this I
+halted to make a road which the ponies could traverse. There was plenty
+of water and forage hereabouts, and a fine level country for our
+proceedings, so that we were all in high hopes and spirits, and, as I
+then believed, our principal difficulties were at an end.
+
+Whilst at work at the road we all thought that we heard a native call,
+and that others answered him; having listened for a repetition of these
+sounds we again heard them, but they were so indistinct in character that
+none of us this time agreed as to what they were. I imagined that it was
+the call of a bird and, when I again heard the same sound very faintly in
+the distance, I felt convinced it was not a human voice, and proceeded on
+my way perfectly at ease.
+
+My attention was soon occupied by other objects. I saw from a hill I
+ascended some remarkable blue peaks to the south: this gave us fresh
+hopes; and nothing occurred till about three-quarters of an hour after we
+had first heard the native call, when we arrived at a short descent
+covered with rocks, from which started a large kangaroo; I got a fair
+shot at, and knocked it over, but it sprang up again and hopped away; we
+then tried to track it but soon lost its footsteps in the scrubby
+vegetation of the gloomy forest,
+
+It was the duty of the Cape man who accompanied me to mark a tree every
+here and there by chipping the bark, so that the party might the next day
+easily recognise the route which they had to pursue; upon looking back I
+now perceived that he had neglected a very remarkable tree about twenty
+or thirty yards behind us, and which stood close to the spot where I had
+fired at the kangaroo. I desired him to go back and chip it, and then to
+rejoin us; in the meantime I stood musing as to the best means of
+avoiding the little rocky ravine in our front.
+
+SUDDEN SURPRISE BY NATIVES.
+
+Finding that the man remained absent longer than I had expected I called
+loudly to him, but received no answer, and therefore passed round some
+rocks which hid the tree from my view to look after him. Suddenly I saw
+him close to me breathless and speechless with terror, and a native with
+his spear fixed in a throwing-stick in full pursuit of him; immediately
+numbers of other natives burst upon my sight; each tree, each rock,
+seemed to give forth its black denizen, as if by enchantment.
+
+A moment before, the most solemn silence pervaded these woods. We deemed
+that not a human being moved within miles of us, and now they rang with
+savage and ferocious yells, and fierce armed men crowded round us on
+every side, bent on our destruction.
+
+CONTEST WITH THEM. UNFORTUNATE RESULTS.
+
+There was something very terrible in so complete and sudden a surprise.
+Certain death appeared to stare us in the face: and, from the determined
+and resolute air of our opponents, I immediately guessed that the man who
+had first seen them, instead of boldly standing his ground, and calling
+to Coles and myself for assistance, had at once, like a coward, run away;
+thus giving the natives confidence in themselves, and a contempt for us:
+and this conjecture I afterwards ascertained was perfectly true.
+
+We were now fairly engaged for our lives; escape was impossible, and
+surrender to such enemies out of the question.
+
+As soon as I saw the natives around me I fired one barrel of my gun over
+the head of him who was pursuing my dismayed attendant, hoping the report
+would have checked his further career. He proved to be the tall man seen
+at the camp, painted with white. My shot stopped him not: he still closed
+on us and his spear whistled by my head; but, whilst he was fixing
+another in his throwing stick, a ball from my second barrel struck him in
+the arm and it fell powerless by his side. He now retired behind a rock,
+but the others still pressed on.
+
+IMMINENT DANGER.
+
+I now made the two men retire behind some neighbouring rocks, which
+formed a kind of protecting parapet along our front and right flank,
+whilst I took post on the left. Both my barrels were now exhausted; and I
+desired the other two to fire separately, whilst I was reloading; but to
+my horror, Coles, who was armed with my rifle, reported hurriedly that
+the cloth case with which he had covered it for protection against rain
+had become entangled. His services were thus lost at a most critical
+moment whilst trying to tear off the lock cover; and the other man was so
+paralysed with fear that he could do nothing but cry out, "Oh, God! Sir,
+look at them; look at them!"
+
+In the meantime our opponents pressed more closely round; their spears
+kept whistling by us, and our fate seemed inevitable. The light coloured
+man, spoken of at the camp, now appeared to direct their movements. He
+sprang forward to a rock not more than thirty yards from us and, posting
+himself behind it, threw a spear with such deadly force and aim that, had
+I not drawn myself forward by a sudden jerk, it must have gone through my
+body, and as it was it touched my back in flying by. Another
+well-directed spear, from a different hand, would have pierced me in the
+breast, but, in the motion I made to avoid it, it struck upon the stock
+of my gun, of which it carried away a portion by its force.
+
+All this took place in a few seconds of time, and no shot had been fired
+but by me. I now recognized in the light-coloured man an old enemy who
+had led on the former attack against me on the 22nd of December. By his
+cries and gestures he now appeared to be urging the others to surround
+and press on us, which they were rapidly doing.
+
+FALL OF THE NATIVE CHIEF.
+
+I saw now that but one thing could be done to save our lives, so I gave
+Coles my gun to complete the reloading, and took the rifle which he had
+not yet disengaged from the cover. I tore it off and, stepping out from
+behind our parapet, advanced to the rock which covered my light-coloured
+opponent. I had not made two steps in advance when three spears struck me
+nearly at the same moment, one of which was thrown by him. I felt
+severely wounded in the hip, but knew not exactly where the others had
+struck me. The force of all knocked me down, and made me very giddy and
+faint, but as I fell I heard the savage yells of the natives' delight and
+triumph; these recalled me to myself, and, roused by momentary rage and
+indignation, I made a strong effort, rallied, and in a moment was on my
+legs; the spear was wrenched from my wound, and my haversack drawn
+closely over it, that neither my own party nor the natives might see it,
+and I advanced again steadily to the rock. The man became alarmed and
+threatened me with his club, yelling most furiously; but as I neared the
+rock behind which all but his head and arm was covered he fled towards an
+adjoining one, dodging dexterously, according to the native manner of
+confusing an assailant and avoiding the cast of his spear; but he was
+scarcely uncovered in his flight when my rifle ball pierced him through
+the back between the shoulders, and he fell heavily on his face with a
+deep groan.
+
+DISPERSION OF HIS FOLLOWERS.
+
+The effect was electrical. The tumult of the combat had ceased: not
+another spear was thrown, not another yell was uttered. Native after
+native dropped away and noiselessly disappeared. I stood alone with the
+wretched savage dying before me, and my two men close to me behind the
+rocks, in the attitude of deep attention; and as I looked round upon the
+dark rocks and forests, now suddenly silent and lifeless but for the
+sight of the unhappy being who lay on the ground before me, I could have
+thought that the whole affair had been a horrid dream.
+
+For a second or two I gazed on the scene and then returned to my former
+position. I took my gun from Coles, which he had not yet finished
+loading, and gave him the rifle. I then went up to the other man, and
+gave him two balls to hold, but when I placed them in his hands they
+rolled upon the earth--he could not hold them, for he was completely
+paralysed with terror, and they fell through his fingers; the
+perspiration streamed from every pore; he was ghastly pale and trembled
+from head to foot; his limbs refused their functions; his eyes were so
+fixed in the direction in which the natives had disappeared that I could
+draw his attention to nothing else; and he still continued repeating,
+"Good God, sir! look at them, look at them."
+
+The natives had all now concealed themselves, but they were not far off.
+Presently the wounded man made an effort to raise himself slowly from the
+ground: some of them instantly came from behind the rocks and trees,
+without their spears, crowding round him with the greatest tenderness and
+solicitude; two passed their arms round him, his head drooped senselessly
+upon his chest, and with hurried steps the whole party wound their way
+through the forest, their black forms being scarcely distinguishable from
+the charred trunks of the trees as they receded in the distance.
+
+To have fired upon the other natives when they returned for the wounded
+man would, in my belief, have been an unnecessary piece of barbarity. I
+already felt deeply the death of him I had been compelled to shoot: and I
+believe that when a fellow-creature falls by one's hand, even in a single
+combat rendered unavoidable in self-defence, it is impossible not
+sincerely to regret the force of so cruel a necessity.
+
+RETURN WOUNDED.
+
+I had now time to attend to my own state and that of my men, and found
+that they were uninjured. I had been severely wounded in the hip; another
+spear had just cut my right arm, and a third had deeply indented my
+powder-flask, whilst lying in a haversack, immediately over my stomach.
+The men were not, up to this moment, aware of my being wounded, as I had
+thought it better to conceal this circumstance from them as long as I
+could. The natives had gone off in the direction of the tents; and as I
+felt doubtful whether they might seize upon a favourable opportunity to
+surprise the party there, and thus revenge their defeat, I was anxious to
+reach the encampment as soon as possible. We therefore bound up my wound
+as well as we could, picked up the spear which I had drawn out from my
+hip, and started homewards.
+
+We did not take with us any of the other spears or native weapons which
+were lying about in abundance; for I still wished to show this people
+that I was actuated by no ill will towards them. They did not however
+deal so generously with us; for Coles unfortunately forgot a notebook
+which he was carrying for me, containing many observations of great
+value; and I sent back a party to look for it, but the natives had
+returned to the place and carried off all their own spears, and other
+weapons, and my notebook likewise.
+
+The first part of our march homewards was managed tolerably well. We saw
+the tracks of the natives, as if they were still retiring in the
+direction of the tents; and at one place, close to a group of detached
+rocks, were several tame native dogs, near which I have no doubt a party
+of men or women were concealed, as these animals seldom wander far from
+their masters. We did not however see any natives, and continued our
+route unmolested.
+
+My wound began by degrees to get very stiff and painful, and I was
+moreover excessively weak and faint from loss of blood; indeed I grew so
+dizzy that I could scarcely see, and neither of the others were capable
+of leading the party back to the tents; yet I was afraid to halt and rest
+for I imagined that if I allowed my wound to grow cold and benumbed I
+should then be unable to move; leaning therefore on Coles's arm, I walked
+on as rapidly as I could, directing the men which way to go.
+
+MISTAKE OF THE ROUTE.
+
+Unfortunately however we lost our track and, after walking for nearly two
+hours, I found that we were far from the encampment, whilst my sight and
+strength were momentarily failing. Under these circumstances I told Coles
+to walk in a direction which I gave him, and which led directly across
+the beaten track of the party; having reached which he could easily make
+out the encampment, and, leaning on his arm more heavily than before, we
+again moved on.
+
+INABILITY TO PROCEED.
+
+Having reached the track of the party and turned southward to follow it I
+still pushed on until we were within two miles of the tent, when, as I
+tried to cross a stream, I strained my wounded hip severely, just reached
+the opposite shore, and fell utterly unable to rise again. Coles, with
+his usual courage and devotion to me, volunteered to go on alone to the
+party and send assistance; the other man was to remain with me and keep a
+lookout for the natives, and, had they again attacked us, I should still
+have had strength enough to have shot two of them, and thus have sold my
+life dearly. I desired Coles to say that a tent, stores, the surgeon, and
+two men were to be sent to me, for that I was not well enough to be
+moved.
+
+REFLECTIONS.
+
+The water of the stream revived me considerably. My wound however was
+very painful, and the interim between Corporal Coles leaving me, and
+assistance arriving from the tent was spent in meditations, arising
+naturally from my present circumstances. I sat upon the rocky edge of a
+cool clear brook, supported by a small tree. The sun shone out brightly,
+the dark forest was alive with birds and insects. On such scenery I had
+loved to meditate when a boy, but now how changed I was; wounded,
+fatigued, and wandering in an unknown land. In momentary expectation of
+being attacked my finger was on the trigger, my gun ready to be raised,
+my eyes and ears busily engaged in detecting the slightest sounds, that I
+might defend a life which I at that moment believed was ebbing with my
+blood away; the loveliness of nature was around me, the sun rejoicing in
+his cloudless career, the birds were filling the woods with their songs,
+and my friends far away and unapprehensive of my condition, whilst I felt
+that I was dying there.
+
+And in this way very many explorers yearly die. One poor youth (Mr.
+Frederick Smith) my own friend and companion, has thus fallen since the
+circumstances above described took place; others have, to my knowledge,
+lately perished in a similar way. A strange sun shines upon their lonely
+graves; the foot of the wild man yet roams over them: but let us hope
+when civilization has spread so far that their graves will be sacred
+spots that the future settlers will sometimes shed a tear over the
+remains of the first explorer, and tell their children how much they are
+indebted to the enthusiasm, perseverance, and courage of him who lies
+buried there.
+
+Mr. Walker was by my side within an hour after the time that Coles had
+left me; he had come on alone ahead of the others, not knowing but that I
+might be in immediate danger, and therefore running a risk on my account
+that I can never forget.
+
+He dressed my wound and told me that assistance was at hand to convey me
+to the tents. Mr. Lushington soon arrived with a pony. It was now growing
+very late in the day. I therefore did not like to remonstrate against
+being moved on horseback although, from the position of my wound, I
+feared that it was an injudicious mode of conveyance in my state. I was
+placed upon the pony and, supported by my comrades, moved onwards to the
+tent.
+
+REACH THE CAMP. CONSEQUENCES OF THE WOUND.
+
+I cared but little for the want of comforts I must now be subject to.
+Therein I only shared the lot of many a worthy soldier; but one thing
+made the night very wretched, for then through the woods came the
+piercing shrieks of wailing women and the mournful cries of native men,
+sorrowing over him who had that day fallen by my hand. These cries rang
+on my ears all night, startling me at every moment from my feverish and
+fitful slumbers.
+
+Early next morning the natives moved off in a westerly direction without
+having again attempted in any way whatever to molest us. My wound was not
+today so painful as I had anticipated. Mr. Walker, at my request,
+attempted to heal it by union by the first intention, as I hoped to be
+thus only compelled to delay the party for a few days.
+
+My pain and suffering were, after the first day, so great, owing to an
+abscess having formed in my hip, that I was unable to keep a regular
+journal, and will therefore give a short narrative of the events which
+occurred, recommencing my journal on the 27th of February, the day on
+which I was sufficiently recovered to enable me to proceed with the
+party.
+
+CAPE MAN SENT BACK TO THE VESSEL.
+
+Two or three days after I had been wounded the man from the Cape, who had
+been with me at the time, came to request that he might be allowed to
+leave the party and return to the vessel. He stated very fairly that his
+horror and dread of the natives were so great he should never be able to
+face them; that he had never been before placed in circumstances of
+danger; and felt himself quite unable to cope with them; that if his own
+father had been with him when they attacked us he could not have helped
+him; and that he was sure he should die of fright if ever he saw them
+again.
+
+I thought it would be cruel to compel him to remain with the party, and
+it was moreover impossible to tell what evil effect his cowardice might
+produce upon the others; when already he had, by running away from the
+natives, induced them to attack us. The only account he gave of this
+transaction was that he saw a native sitting on a rock with a spear and,
+feeling alarmed, immediately ran away. No one after this could feel in
+the least surprised at the consequences. The peculiar characteristic of
+this savage race appears to be that they in all cases act upon first
+impulses and impressions. I have repeatedly remarked this trait in their
+character; and undoubtedly when they found an unknown being in their
+native wilds, who fled from them in evident fear, it was to be expected
+that they would, in the first instance, feel very much inclined to run
+after, and throw a spear at him.
+
+On the 21st of February I sent a party under Mr. Walker back to the
+schooner for the purpose of escorting this man, as well as to direct the
+Captain to delay her departure from the bay until the 2nd day of May;
+which delay would allow time for us to complete the exploration of this
+part of the country, and I could then decide upon what course I had
+better adopt.
+
+EVENTS DURING PERIOD OF HALT.
+
+Mr. Walker returned on the 22nd, having executed both these commissions;
+and his party brought back for me a little sugar, arrowroot, and wine.
+All of these were articles of which, in my present state, I stood much in
+need.
+
+My recovery was a good deal delayed by the circumstances in which I was
+placed. The heat in the store-tent, a portion of which I occupied, was
+sometimes as high as 136 degrees of Fahrenheit, and until the return of
+Mr. Walker I had been able to obtain nothing to eat or drink but damper
+and tea without sugar; I also reclined upon the ground, until sores broke
+out from lying on so hard a surface in one position. Corporal Auger
+latterly however made a sort of low stretcher, which gave me a little
+more ease. Added to these bodily ills were many mental ones--but I will
+not dwell longer on times so replete with painful recollections.
+
+ANECDOTE OF RUSTON.
+
+During the time I was lying in my tent, in great pain and very low
+spirits, I was attended with every care and kindness by Ruston, the
+sailor I had brought from the Cape, who occasionally suggested such odd
+topics of comfort as his philosophy could supply; and one day, either
+from some expressions I had dropped, or other circumstance, he conceived
+that the death of the native I had shot was preying most upon my mind;
+under this impression he came into the tent, seated himself on a
+flour-bag near me, and made his usual inquiries as to my wants and
+desires; then, glancing at recent events, proceeded to say: "Well, Sir,
+I'm sure if I were you, I shouldn't think nothing at all of having shot
+that there black fellow; why, Sir, they're very thick and plentiful up
+the country." I did not exactly see the consolation to be derived from
+this argument of Ruston's, but I could not forbear smiling at its
+quaintness, and feeling grateful for the kindness with which it was
+intended.
+
+TRACK FOUND.
+
+During my illness Mr. Lushington explored a track to the westward of the
+one I had formerly taken, and of which he reported so favourably that I
+determined to pursue it. According to his account, by following it for
+seven or eight miles, we should get altogether clear of the sandstone
+ranges, and enter a tract of country of great fertility. On the 26th Mr.
+Walker reported me to be so much better that he thought I might with
+safety move on the next day on horseback, and preparations were
+accordingly made for a start.
+
+A very serious change had taken place in our resources in one respect,
+for only fourteen ponies now remained alive out of twenty-six, and many
+of these were so weak and in such bad condition as to be almost useless.
+On opening one of those which had died about a hat-full of sand was found
+in its inside, and it therefore appeared very probable that the ponies,
+having been landed in the first instance on loose sandy soil producing
+only a short and scanty vegetation, had taken up so much sand with their
+food as to interfere with the functions of the stomach, and hence had
+arisen their gradual wasting away and ultimate death. I indeed entertain
+no doubt that the great loss of ponies we sustained arose from this
+cause.
+
+CHANGE OF PLANS.
+
+This reduction in the number of our beasts of burden prevented me from
+entertaining further hope of being able to proceed for any great distance
+parallel to the coast in a southerly direction. I therefore formed a
+depot at our present encampment, burying all such stores as the remaining
+ponies were unable to carry on. My intentions being merely to proceed as
+far as the supply of provisions we could carry with us would last, then
+to return to our position, and from thence to the schooner.
+
+DESCRIPTION OF A NEW VOLCANIC COUNTRY.
+
+On the morning of the 27th of February I was, in pursuance of this plan
+of operations, lifted on my horse, and we moved on in a south-west
+direction, across sandy plains covered with scrub and a species of
+stringy-bark; but on travelling for about a mile and a half the character
+of the country became more rocky and difficult. After moving down a
+slight descent, we came to a rapid stream, the same one on the banks of
+which I had heard the natives' calls on the day I was wounded; the banks
+afforded good food for the horses and trees which offered some shelter to
+the men from the burning heat of the sun. I determined therefore to halt
+here for breakfast; indeed the horses were so completely knocked up that
+they were incapable of travelling any further. We had already been
+compelled to abandon one of them in a dying state since we had started in
+the morning.
+
+We halted for about an hour and a half and then recommenced our journey,
+but were unfortunate enough to miss the marked trees, and therefore
+wandered a good deal in our attempts to find the right track. Whilst thus
+roaming in the wood we passed two spots about one hundred yards distant
+from each other, which I imagined to be native burying-places: they
+consisted of piles of small loose stones so heaped together as to form a
+large mound; these mounds were placed on flat bare rocks, one of them,
+the smaller, had been recently made, the other was larger and much older,
+for it was partly overgrown with plants.
+
+VIEW FROM THE SANDSTONE RANGE.
+
+About 2 P.M. we reached the extremity of the sandstone ridges and a
+magnificent view burst upon us. From the summit of the hills on which we
+stood an almost precipitous descent led into a fertile plain below; and
+from this part, away to the southward, for thirty to forty miles,
+stretched a low luxuriant country, broken by conical peaks and rounded
+hills which were richly grassed to their very summits. The plains and
+hills were both thinly wooded, and curving lines of shady trees marked
+out the courses of numerous streams. Since I have visited this spot I
+have traversed large portions of Australia but have seen no land, no
+scenery to equal it. We were upon the confines of a great volcanic
+district, clothed with tropical vegetation, to which the Isle of France
+bears a greater resemblance than any other portion of the world which I
+am acquainted with. The rocks in both places are identical; many of the
+trees are also the same; and there are several other close and striking
+points of similarity.
+
+DESCENT FROM THE SANDSTONE RANGE INTO THE LOW COUNTRY.
+
+The descent into the lowlands, being very difficult, occupied us nearly
+two hours; we then gained the bed of a ravine, in which ran a clear
+stream: the ravine gradually widening out as we reached the plains. I
+proceeded directly down it in the direction of a lofty peaked hill which
+bore to the westward of south; and, having gained a shoulder of this
+hill, we halted for the night.
+
+Immediately above us a perfectly conical peak raised its head to the
+height of at least five hundred feet;* this hill was covered with rich
+grass, and there could be no doubt that it was of volcanic origin, for
+the rock of which it was composed was a vitrified lava resembling that of
+Ascension. It is from this lava that the natives form their most deadly
+spears, for which purpose it answers well, as it fractures easily, and
+the fracture resembles that of the coarse green glass of England; indeed
+a lump of this rock might readily be taken for a part of a glass bottle.
+
+(*Footnote. This hill may be easily recognized by a precipitous cavity
+near the summit on its southern side, which may be seen at some
+distance.)
+
+The horses and sheep revelled in the luxuriant pasture. The hill we had
+encamped on formed a sort of plateau; behind us stood dark mountains, and
+in our front lay fertile plains, from which green hills rose one behind
+the other until they were lost in the distance, without any perceptible
+change in the character of the country. To the eastward the prospect was
+similar, as well as to the westward, except that in this direction the
+hills were more lofty, and behind these the tropical sun was hurrying
+down with a rapidity of movement never witnessed by those who live in the
+gloomy climes of the north. The men all looked healthy and full of hope;
+the cool sea-breeze refreshed my feverish frame: I painted in fancy the
+rapid progress that this country would ere long make in commerce and
+civilization, and my weakness and fatigues were all forgotten.
+
+DISTANT EXPANSE OF WATER.
+
+February 28.
+
+At dawn this morning the sheep could not be found; tempted by the
+goodness of the feed they had broken out from the little enclosure we had
+made for them and had wandered off. The stock-keeper and two of the men,
+having ascended the conical hill behind us to try if they could see them
+from it, reported on their return that they could descry a large lake or
+expanse of water, which bore about south by west from us.
+
+VEXATIOUS DELAYS.
+
+Whilst the search for the sheep was continued I sent another party up the
+hill to observe more particularly this sheet of water, who returned with
+a report similar to that of the stock-keeper, and I therefore determined,
+as soon as everything had been prepared for starting, to move off in the
+direction pointed out; unfortunately the sheep were not found till near
+noon but, as I was afraid we should consequently lose a whole day, I
+started directly after they were brought in. We had not proceeded more
+than half a mile ere I had cause to repent this measure, for two or three
+of the men suffered severely from exposure to the sun, and one of them
+became so unwell that I was obliged to halt the party.
+
+The spot I chose was the bank of a stream, shaded over by dense trees
+and, if anything could have atoned for the mortification of being
+compelled to halt when so anxious to get on, the cool beauty of this spot
+would have done so.
+
+When the sun began to fall we again moved on, following the course of the
+stream, which ran through a fertile valley about two miles wide and
+bounded on either side by gently sloping hills, extending through a
+country thinly wooded. We did not halt until after sunset.
+
+March 1.
+
+This morning we resumed our route along the banks of the stream, which
+continued gradually to increase in size. The marshy ground now extended
+further from its banks and, in order to free ourselves from this, I
+ascended some rising ground to the eastward, along which we pursued our
+route until we fell in with another rapid stream running from the
+eastward, and were again involved in marshy land, which delayed us for
+some time ere we found a point where loaded ponies could pass. At length
+however, having succeeded in getting clear of these obstructions, we
+continued our southerly course till we came to a deep stream running from
+south-south-east; but, not being able to cross it there, we travelled
+along its banks until a ford was found; and as soon as we had passed over
+I halted for breakfast.
+
+BEAUTIFUL BASALTIC COUNTRY.
+
+We had traversed a most beautiful country this morning, composed of
+basaltic rocks and fine alluvial soil, whilst, from the size and number
+of the streams, it must be as well watered as any region in the world.
+Before we had completed our breakfast violent tropical rains set in;
+these were so cold that some of the men got into the stream, the waters
+of which were comparatively warm, and they thus saved themselves from the
+painful feeling caused by very cold water falling on the pores, which had
+been previously opened by profuse perspiration. The heavy rains continued
+without intermission for the remainder of the day and night, and two of
+the men were, on this occasion, attacked with dysentery, caused, I
+believe, by cold and exposure.
+
+DISCOVERY AND CHARACTER OF THE GLENELG RIVER.
+
+March 2.
+
+We started at dawn, crossing a series of low ridges which ran out from a
+chain of hills to the eastward of us, and increased in elevation as we
+proceeded to the south. We passed numerous streams, and the country
+generally continued of a very rich and fertile character: at last, from
+the top of one of these ridges, there burst upon the sight a noble river,
+running through a beautiful country, and, where we saw it, at least three
+or four miles across, and studded with numerous verdant islands. I have
+since seen many Australian rivers, but none to equal this either in
+magnitude or beauty.
+
+I at once named it the Glenelg in compliment to the Right Honourable Lord
+Glenelg, to whom we were all under great obligations.
+
+IMPEDIMENTS FROM MARSHES AND STREAMS. INEFFECTUAL ATTEMPT TO REACH IT.
+
+My anxiety to reach this stream was too great to allow me to pass much
+time in looking at it, so, after I had taken a few bearings to the most
+remarkable points in the neighbourhood, we wound down the steep descent
+in front, and continued our advance towards the river, but were still at
+least five miles from it when we became involved in low marshy ground,
+traversed by deep sluggish streams, the banks of which were encumbered by
+a dense vegetation. Such a country, though admirably adapted both for
+commerce and agriculture, offered almost insurmountable difficulties to
+first explorers, at least to such as were compelled to move rapidly. We
+at last became so completely entangled in a marsh that further progress
+was hopeless, and we halted to prepare breakfast whilst a party searched
+for a path by which we might be enabled to proceed.
+
+My wound was still open and my sufferings from it were great; whenever we
+moved on I was lifted on the pony, and when we halted I was lifted off
+again and laid on the ground, where weakness compelled me to remain
+during the whole period of our halt; and on occasions like the present,
+when most anxious myself to search for a route, I was obliged to lie
+still like a helpless child. My mind was as active and as ready for
+exertion as ever, yet the weak frame, of which it felt perfectly
+independent, was incapable of seconding my most moderate wishes; and the
+annoyance I experienced at finding myself in this state long retarded my
+recovery and rendered me weaker every day.
+
+At length a route was found, and until sunset we continued our journey
+over a very difficult but fertile country, and then halted for the night
+on a small elevation, embosomed amidst conical hills which rose from
+verdant meadows, watered by several streams. The country was thinly
+timbered.
+
+The spot we had halted at was so thickly tenanted with mosquitoes that it
+was impossible to sleep. I therefore laid awake, listening to the cries
+of the sea-birds and watching the brilliant fire-flies moving about in
+the dark foliage of the trees.
+
+PROGRESS TOWARDS THE UPPER PART OF THE GLENELG.
+
+March 3.
+
+Before the first dawn I called some of the party and we started off to
+visit the banks of the river. The first part of our journey lay across
+rich grassy flats, thinly wooded with large shady trees, or over gently
+rising grounds, on which grew an abundance of young grass which appeared
+to be a species of oat. These rising grounds were thinly wooded with a
+small sort of gum tree, called in the Isle of France the Bois noir.
+
+We soon reached low marshy land intersected with large dry mud flats and,
+as it was impossible, from the nature of the country, to get the pony
+further, I tethered it, and we tried to make the river on foot. The
+position which we had selected was however so unfavourable that we did
+not succeed in reaching the river, and my wound became so painful that I
+was scarcely able to crawl back to the pony.
+
+We then returned to the tents, which we reached in the afternoon, and I
+sent another party out to examine the country and to see if they could
+find a more favourable position for the tent where we might be less
+exposed to the mosquitoes. The remainder of the men were employed in
+repairing the packsaddles and in mending our shoes, which were in a very
+dilapidated condition. The detached party, on their return, reported that
+they could not find a more favourable position for the tents; and that we
+appeared to be on a low marshy tongue of land which the river nearly
+flowed round. We this day saw the tracks of an emu, and of several large
+dogs, and kangaroos.
+
+ASCEND A HILL.
+
+March 4.
+
+By sunrise I had gained the foot of the highest hill near our encampment.
+It is a very remarkable rocky eminence; in height above the immediate
+base it was only 250 feet, but it rose by a regular steep slope from the
+river, which was distant about four miles. I do not think therefore that
+its height above the level of the sea was less than 800 feet. I was
+unable to ride up this hill, from the rocky nature of the ground, which
+was composed of a basalt resembling that of the Isle of France; its sides
+were slightly wooded and clothed with a fine grass nearly as high as
+myself. From the heaviness of the dew, walking through a river would have
+been about as agreeable as walking through this grass; but when I had
+reached the summit the view amply repaid me for the trouble of the
+ascent.
+
+VIEW OF THE GLENELG FROM IT.
+
+The river flowed through a rich and fertile country at the base of the
+hill, having in some places hereabouts a triple channel formed by large
+and apparently fertile islands, and its width must have been at least
+three or four miles; it however ran away so much to the north-eastward
+that I began to fear it might be a great salt-water inlet, communicating
+in some manner with Prince Regent's River, and that we might thus find
+ourselves upon a large island. I had a good view of the valley for 10 or
+12 miles in an easterly direction over a country still very fertile, but
+all that I saw tended to make me believe that the river had some
+communication with the sea, somewhere towards the north-east.
+
+We reached the camp before breakfast; and, as this was Sunday and our
+ponies were rapidly improving from the goodness of their feed, I
+determined to halt here for a day or two whilst a detachment examined the
+country to ascertain, if possible, whether we were on an island or not,
+and whether it was possible to cross the river near our present position.
+
+March 5.
+
+This morning accordingly an exploring party started; and, as it was
+necessary that they should traverse the country on foot so as to be able
+to cross the low marshy grounds near the river, I was, on account of my
+wound, unable to accompany them, and therefore occupied myself in making
+a set of magnetic observations.
+
+March 6.
+
+This afternoon Mr. Lushington and the party returned, having found the
+northern bank of the river to consist of low marshy ground covered with a
+luxuriant vegetation, and in some places with such forests of mangrove
+trees that it was impossible to approach the stream. They however
+succeeded in reaching one of the channels of the river, which was upwards
+of 400 yards wide; the rise and fall of tide was here about twenty feet,
+and the current, of course, extremely rapid. They reported the river as
+being, to all appearance, navigable, and that the tide only set in from
+the westward.
+
+THE RIVER.
+
+As the southern bank of the river was bordered by high rocky hills they
+saw nothing of the country in that direction. Their report was on the
+whole satisfactory, for it appeared that the good country still extended
+along the northern bank, and that we were upon the mainland.
+
+PORPOISES SEEN.
+
+A good idea may be formed of the size of the river where the party made
+it from the circumstance of their seeing a large shoal of porpoises.
+
+IGUANA. DENSENESS OF VEGETATION.
+
+March 7.
+
+This morning we started early in a north-easterly direction and travelled
+all day through a very fertile and picturesque country. On our left lay
+hills covered with grass, and on our right extensive plains, through
+which ran the Glenelg. The vegetation in these was so luxuriant that it
+choked the fresh water up; and whole plains were sometimes thus inundated
+ankle deep. The country was thinly timbered, but in general the trees
+were of a very great size: one particularly took my fancy, having very
+large leaves about the colour of those of the horse-chestnut, and which
+cast more shade around them than any other which I have seen in
+Australia.
+
+In the afternoon, as we were passing through a densely vegetated bottom,
+we saw a very large iguana run up a tree. This brute was of a beautiful
+green colour and five or six feet long; it sat on the tree, making a
+noise somewhat like a snake, and was the largest and ugliest of the
+lizard tribe which I have ever seen on land. As we could make no use of
+it I thought it would be wanton to kill it; so, after examining it as
+well as we could, we moved on, leaving it undisturbed.
+
+The black flies on this day changed their character, and became much
+smaller than those I had hitherto seen.
+
+March 8.
+
+We made but little progress today on account of the denseness of the
+vegetation, which was so luxuriant that we found great difficulty in
+forcing our way through it; in several instances indeed it was wholly
+impassable; and, after making an attempt to penetrate through a jungle,
+we were obliged to turn about and coast round it. The numerous streams we
+met with were also a serious impediment, for many of these were so muddy
+and deep that we had great difficulty in finding a place where we could
+cross.
+
+SIGNS OF NATIVES.
+
+We halted for breakfast near a stream of this kind, under the shade of a
+large group of the pandanus. This was evidently a favourite haunt of the
+natives, who had been feeding upon the almonds which this tree contains
+in its large complex fruit, and to give a relish to their repast had
+mingled with it roasted unios, or fresh-water mussels, which the stream
+produced in abundance. The remains of some old spears were also lying
+about, but the natives themselves were not visible.
+
+Immediately after breakfast I ascended a hill to see if we could in any
+way get clear of the deep stream on the banks of which we had
+breakfasted. The Glenelg was distant about three miles to the south, and
+I found that, in order to disengage ourselves from the waters which
+almost encompassed us, we must turn off to the north-west, and thus
+almost double back on our former track, as there was no other resource. I
+returned at once to the party, and we spent the rest of the day in
+crossing two deep streams, and then proceeded about a mile to the
+eastward, where we halted for the night on the bank of a rocky
+watercourse, but not containing a drop of water. The timber today was
+larger than I had yet seen it, affording many new kinds, and one in
+particular, resembling in appearance and quality the English ash.
+
+March 9.
+
+We moved through a low country, densely vegetated, and still abounding in
+deep sluggish streams, almost unapproachable, on account of a dwarf
+bamboo and other tropical plants which clothed their margins. Some of
+these streams were twenty feet deep and upwards, and looked more like
+canals than natural watercourses.
+
+CASCADE OF THE RIVER.
+
+The point where we halted for the night was not very distant from the
+river, for its roaring, as it forced itself over a rapid, could be
+distinctly heard. As it was important to ascertain if it ceased to be
+navigable at this point, as well as whether it could be here forded or
+not, I ordered a party to proceed at daylight and examine it, and in the
+interim we laid down to enjoy such repose as myriads of mosquitoes would
+allow us.
+
+March 10.
+
+The party started at dawn and did not return until the afternoon. They
+arrived at low-water at a point where the river formed a series of rapids
+and was apparently broken into several channels; the one which they
+reached was not more than fifty or sixty yards wide, the tide at low
+water being full seven or eight feet below the level of the rocks which
+formed the rapids, but at high-water it rose, judging from the marks on
+the rocks, as many feet above them. This channel would therefore cease to
+be navigable for vessels at this point, but large boats could proceed up
+it at high-water. There was no apparent possibility of our being able to
+pass it hereabouts on account of the great rapidity of the current. The
+river continued fresh below the rapids, and their account of the
+character of the country they saw was most satisfactory.
+
+INCONVENIENT HALTING PLACE.
+
+Almost immediately after they had entered the camp the rain began to fall
+in such torrents that it was impossible for us to move; this was
+unfortunate for where we were halted was unfit for a day's resting-place,
+and we should consequently be compelled to move on Sunday morning instead
+of making it a day of perfect rest. The point where the party made the
+river today was about south latitude 15 degrees 41 minutes; east
+longitude 124 degrees 53 minutes.
+
+
+CHAPTER 9. TO THE UPPER GLENELG.
+
+WORKS OF NATIVE INDUSTRY.
+
+March 11.
+
+The country we traversed this morning was still marshy, and intersected
+by deep streams. The party had yesterday fixed upon a point for us to
+encamp at; but, a sudden inundation having taken place, we could not
+cross a stream which lay between us and the spot selected, so that we
+were compelled about noon to halt at a position very ill adapted for our
+purpose.
+
+VARIOUS TRACES OF NATIVES.
+
+Close to our camp was a large mass of basaltic rocks, on which the
+natives had lately been, and had left behind them a few old spears: some
+drawings were also scratched upon the rocks, representing heads, hands,
+and other parts of the human frame: they were however indifferently
+executed.
+
+Another branch of industry which had engaged their attention was the
+manufacture of stone spearheads, the chips and remnants of which were
+lying about on every side. As this looked very like a preparation to give
+us a warm reception I kept upon the alert. From constantly sleeping on
+the wet ground, and the exposure I was obliged to undergo, such an attack
+of rheumatism had been produced in my left hip and knee that I was not
+only crippled but suffered such dreadful agony from my wounded limb that
+I was able to pay but little attention to passing events.
+
+I crept about however as well as I could, and found that we were in a
+very populous neighbourhood. At one place a large party of natives
+appeared to have lived for some time, twelve bark beds having been left
+in a circle round a fire. In this respect they differ in custom from the
+natives of the southern parts of Australia, who generally sleep all of a
+heap, or, at least, four or five persons together, whereas each
+individual here appeared to occupy his own little bark bed. In the course
+of the morning's march we had passed a very neat native oven, or
+fireplace, much more carefully constructed than anything of the kind I
+have since seen; it consisted of a hole sunk eight inches deep in the
+earth, which was quite circular, three feet in diameter, and very neatly
+paved and lined with flat stones; the last article cooked here had been a
+large quantity of turtles' eggs, the remnants of which were lying
+scattered all around. This is a dish by no means to be despised; and the
+discovery was rather interesting to me as it proved that turtle came so
+far up the river. It rained hard during the greater part of the day.
+
+March 12.
+
+As we were preparing to start this morning one of the ponies was found to
+be so knocked up as to be unable to proceed; I therefore abandoned it,
+though, I fear, in a state too far gone to recover; but if perfect rest
+and abundance of good feed and water could effect a restoration it had
+still a fair chance.
+
+DIFFICULTIES OF THE ROUTE.
+
+A ford over the stream had yesterday been found between the Glenelg and
+our encampment, which we now succeeded in getting the ponies over, and,
+in order to avoid another stream, which had been seen to the eastward, we
+turned north-east, but in about three miles were again at fault, on the
+banks of a deep brook. I now turned due north and, after tracing the
+stream for about a mile, discovered a ford across which, after a due
+proportion of sticking in the mud and falling with their loads in the
+deep water, we led all the ponies, and found ourselves happily
+established in a jungle on the other side of it. The vegetation here
+consisted of grass and reeds which rose so high and thick that I could
+see nothing over them, although there was rising land within a mile of
+us.
+
+We first endeavoured to push through this jungle in an easterly
+direction; but, after having very resolutely made our way onwards for
+about an hour, I saw some very high land to the south-east of us, distant
+four or five miles, and therefore changed the direction of our march to
+make for these hills; as soon as we had gained a clear place in the
+jungle I halted for breakfast, and, after resting for an hour, we
+continued, notwithstanding the dreadful heat of the day, to move on, but
+soon again came to a deep, sluggish stream which obliged us to turn off
+to the north-east; and it was not until near nightfall that we found a
+place where we could cross it.
+
+MOUNT LYELL.
+
+Having traversed the stream we proceeded to the foot of a very lofty
+peak, the most remarkable hill in this part of the country, and which I
+named Mount Lyell, after C. Lyell, Esquire. We here pitched the tents,
+and scarcely was this operation performed ere the rain fell in such
+torrents that the water stood even under them to the depth of two or
+three inches, and yet the tents were fixed in the best position that
+could be found. The night was dark and stormy so that, even had a better
+place offered, it would now have been useless to move; we therefore
+resigned ourselves to our fate and lay down on our watery beds, which
+possessed at least one merit, that they were free from mosquitoes.
+
+March 13.
+
+Before the mists of morning had cleared away from the lofty hills to the
+north-east of our encampment I had commenced their ascent with a party of
+three men. To my great vexation, on taking out the barometer at the
+bottom of the hill, it was broken, and I could therefore no longer hope
+to be able to obtain the height of remarkable elevations. I managed to
+ride the pony up the hill for some time, but the broken and rocky nature
+of the ground obliged me at last to walk, and I left the animal tethered
+in rich grass higher than itself.
+
+VIEW FROM IT. MAGNIFICENT PROSPECT.
+
+When we gained the summit of the hill I found that in the mists of the
+morning we had ascended the wrong peak. The one we stood on was composed
+of basalt and at least twelve hundred feet high; but Mount Lyell, another
+peak springing from the same range, and not more than a mile to the
+eastward, must have been four or five hundred feet higher. It was
+moreover distinguished by a very remarkable feature, namely, a regular
+circle, as it were, drawn round the peak, some two hundred feet below the
+summit, and above this ring no trees grew; the conical peak which reared
+its head above the region of trees being only clothed with the greenest
+grass, whilst that on which I stood and all the others I could see were
+thinly wooded to their very summits.
+
+The peak we had ascended afforded us a very beautiful view: to the north
+lay Prince Regent's River, and the good country we were now upon extended
+as far as the inlets which communicated with this great navigable stream;
+to the south and south-westward ran the Glenelg, meandering through as
+verdant and fertile a district as the eye of man ever rested on. The
+luxuriance of tropical vegetation was now seen to the greatest advantage,
+in the height of the rainy season. The smoke of native fires rose in
+various directions from the country, which lay like a map at our feet;
+and when I recollected that all these natural riches of soil and climate
+lay between two navigable rivers, and that its sea-coast frontage, not
+much exceeding fifty miles in latitude, contained three of the finest
+harbours in the world, in each of which the tide rose and fell
+thirty-seven and a half feet, I could not but feel we were in a land
+singularly favoured by nature.
+
+CONTINUATION OF ROUTE. TORRENTS OF RAIN.
+
+I remained for some time on the summit of this hill, enjoying the
+prospect, and taking bearings. When this operation was completed we
+returned to the camp and prepared once more to proceed upon our route;
+but, to our misfortune, had not made more than two or three miles through
+a fertile country when the rain again fell in such torrents that we were
+compelled to halt. Indeed none but those who have been in tropical
+countries can at all conceive with what suddenness and force these storms
+burst upon us.
+
+March 14.
+
+We this morning made an attempt to get clear of the marshes by following
+a south-easterly course, and were thus forced up into a range of lofty
+basaltic mountains, the slopes of which were of the richest description.
+Had our ponies been provided with shoes we could have travelled here with
+great speed and facility, but the higher land was invariably covered with
+sharp pebbles over which the unshod ponies could only move with pain and
+difficulty. When however we had gained the summit of the range the view
+from it was similar to that which I have just described. Mount Wellington
+and Mount Trafalgar formed splendid objects, rearing their bold rocky
+heads over St. George's Basin, which now bore the appearance of being a
+vast lake. The pleasure of the prospect was however in my eyes somewhat
+diminished from seeing on the other side of the range so considerable a
+stream that I anticipated great difficulty in crossing it; I therefore
+steered a course somewhat more southerly than our former route and,
+having reached the extremity of the range, we once more descended into
+the fertile lowlands.
+
+GLENELG RIVER.
+
+Along these our course continued through an uninterrupted succession of
+rich flats, thinly wooded but luxuriantly grassed, until near sunset,
+when, as we were about descending the brow of a low hill, I found that
+the Glenelg, having made a sudden turn, was close to us, whilst in our
+front, and completely blocking up our passage, there was a very large
+tributary which joined the river from the north-east; I therefore halted
+the party here for the night, and at once proceeded down to the river.
+
+It was quite fresh and running at the rate of more than five knots an
+hour; the bed was composed of fine white sand, and even close to the
+margin it was 2 1/2 fathoms in depth. The trees which bordered it were of
+a gigantic height and size, I think the largest that I have seen in
+Australia; whilst it was almost impossible to get down to the stream,
+from the denseness of the vegetation on its banks. Before we reached the
+main channel of the river we had several smaller ones to cross, but of
+very insignificant depth.
+
+I stood for some time watching this dark turbid stream sweeping rapidly
+along, and could not but wonder where so great a body of water could have
+its source. I had then seen no other Australian rivers, but judging from
+description this differed widely from them all.
+
+I have since visited many of the most noted Australian streams and found
+this distinguished by many peculiar characteristics; nor would I hesitate
+to say that, with exception perhaps of the Murray, it will be found the
+most important on that continent; and, taking into consideration its
+geographical position, the fertility of the country on its banks, as far
+as it is yet known, and the rise and fall of tide, it may perhaps not
+yield in consideration even to the Murray.
+
+TORRENTS OF RAIN.
+
+I now examined the tributary stream which here joined the Glenelg, and to
+my chagrin found that it was so much swollen by the late rains as to be
+utterly impassable. To attempt to construct a bridge over it would have
+been useless for the adjacent ground was now so swampy the horses were
+bogged before we got them near it. I wandered up its banks as far as I
+could before nightfall, but could not succeed in finding any place in our
+vicinity at which we might hope to effect our passage. Just as it got
+dark the rain again began to pour in torrents; thus, if possible,
+rendering our position worse than before, and I returned late to the
+tents much dispirited at the unfavourable weather we had encountered.
+
+RISE OF THE WATERS. MARKS OF INUNDATIONS.
+
+On going down to the Glenelg the next morning I found it so swollen by
+the heavy rain of the preceding night as to render it impossible to get
+near the main bed. The river was now far beyond its banks, and in the
+forks of the trees above our heads we saw driftwood, reeds, dead grass,
+etc., lodged at least fifteen feet higher than the present level; and
+which could only have been left there during some great flood. Whether
+these had frequently recurred we had of course no means of judging, but
+during such floods the whole of the very low country which we here saw to
+the south-west of us must be inundated. I need scarcely add that in a
+tropical country no ground could be conceived better adapted to the
+growth of rice than the extensive levels which border the Glenelg.
+
+A detached party now went of to search for a route by which we could
+proceed. The stock-keeper came and reported that the sheep were suffering
+greatly from the continued rain and exposure to wet, several of them
+having died during the night; only five were thus left alive out of the
+number we started with, and, one of these being in a drooping state, I
+had it killed that we might not lose the advantage of it altogether.
+
+NATIVES.
+
+Immediately on the other side of the tributary stream which lay to the
+south of us there rose a high precipitous sandy range, similar to those
+we had fallen in with on first landing. This range completely overlooked
+our encampment from a distance, and on it a party of natives had posted
+themselves. We saw the smoke of their fires and heard their own cries and
+the yelling of their dogs; and with the help of my telescope I once
+distinguished their dusky forms moving about in the bush.
+
+COCKATOOS.
+
+A large flight of cockatoos which lay between us and them were kept in a
+constant state of screaming anxiety from the movements of one or the
+other party, and at last found their position so unpleasant that they
+evacuated it and flew off to some more quiet roosting-place. Their
+departure however was a serious loss to us, as they played somewhat the
+same part that the geese once did in the Capitol; for whenever our sable
+neighbours made the slightest movement the watchful sentinels of the
+cockatoos instantly detected it and, by stretching out their crests,
+screaming, standing on their toes on the highest trees, with their wings
+spread abroad to support them, and peering eagerly in the direction where
+the movement was made, they gave us faithful intimation of every motion.
+
+When therefore this advanced guard took unto themselves wings and flew
+away I was obliged to keep all hands on the alert to prevent a surprise.
+Whilst we were thus occupied our detachment returned and reported the
+country to be utterly impracticable. I determined however to examine it
+myself the next morning in order to be quite satisfied upon so important
+a point.
+
+March 16.
+
+I moved off at dawn this morning with a party, but after following the
+direction of the stream for several miles I found that the whole of the
+land between it and the foot of the hills had been rendered by the heavy
+rains a marsh quite impassable for horses, which was rendered the more
+annoying as the swamp was not more than a mile in width, so that this
+slight space alone prevented us from pursuing our desired route. Nothing
+however was now left us but to turn once more to the north-west, and thus
+to endeavour to head the marsh.
+
+DANGER FROM NATIVES.
+
+Just as we had prepared to return home the cries of the natives arose
+close to us; their fire was about half a mile away, and their calls had
+already several times been heard. Now that they were so near us I thought
+it better to load my second barrel with ball, for I did not like their
+hanging about us in the way they had done for several days. On putting my
+hand into my haversack in order to prepare some ammunition I found, to my
+great dismay, that I had taken in mistake one which belonged to another
+man and which contained no ammunition; nor was there a ball in possession
+of any person with me which would fit my gun and, as I knew that the aim
+of those with me was not much to be depended on, even under the coolest
+and most favourable circumstances, I thought that in the moment of a
+desperate attack it might be still less sure; this, added to the want of
+confidence incident on finding oneself unarmed and dependent on the
+protection of others, made me feel very uncomfortable until we once more
+reached the tents.
+
+RAINS CONTINUE. TORRENTS OF RAIN.
+
+During the early part of the day the rain fell in torrents; but, as it
+cleared off a little soon after our arrival, we started in a
+north-westerly direction. Such violent storms of thunder, lightning, and
+rain set in when we had made about two or three miles that I was again
+obliged to halt; and as it continued to rain heavily throughout the
+night, our situation, which was already bad, might now be said to be
+hourly growing worse; and it can readily be conceived that, between
+rheumatism in my wounded limb, lying in water, and vexation at the
+constant difficulties we experienced, I was too much harassed to be able
+to sleep.
+
+SWAMPS.
+
+The continued rain during the night had necessarily rendered the marsh
+far more impracticable than before; but, as no other route to the
+southward could be found on account of the river which lay upon either
+hand, I was compelled to wait until the ground again in some measure
+dried. But it would have been equally as impossible to beat a retreat as
+it was to get forward, for we were in a manner surrounded by swampy land,
+and when the loads were placed upon the ponies they sank nearly up to the
+shoulders in a bog in whichever direction we attempted to move; but as
+our present position would have been unsafe in the event of an extensive
+inundation taking place I judged it necessary at all events to reach a
+somewhat elevated outlying hill of sandstone which was distant about two
+miles. This point we succeeded at last in gaining, although not without
+severely injuring and straining some of the ponies in effecting it. This
+rising ground was however well situated for our camp under present
+circumstances: it was composed of porous sandstone, which in these
+climates dries almost immediately after rain. There was plenty of dead
+wood upon it and it was surrounded by richly-grassed flats, whilst from
+the base gushed forth a clear spring, which then murmured along a purling
+brook, traversing the flat on which the ponies were tethered.
+
+SNAKE AND KANGAROO.
+
+Close to this spot the attention of Mr. Lushington was drawn to a curious
+misshapen mass which came advancing from some bushes with a novel and
+uncouth motion. He fired and it fell, and on going up to it he found that
+it was a small kangaroo enveloped in the folds of a large snake, a
+species of Boa. The kangaroo was now quite dead, and flattened from the
+pressure of the folds of the snake which, being surprised at the
+disturbance it met with, was beginning to uncoil itself, when Mr.
+Lushington drew out a pistol and shot it through the head. It was of a
+brownish yellow colour and eight feet six inches long. The kangaroo we
+found very good eating; and Mr. Walker, who ate a portion of the snake,
+considered it to be as great a delicacy as an eel, but rather tougher.
+
+There fortunately was an elevated pinnacle of rocks on the rising ground
+upon which we were encamped; and from the top of these I was able in the
+course of the day to get bearings and angles to many important objects; I
+could also see many fixed points in my survey, so that the day could not
+be considered as altogether a lost one.
+
+CONDITION OF THE PONIES.
+
+March 18.
+
+Throughout the whole of this day the rain poured in torrents so that the
+ponies, notwithstanding the goodness of the feed, began again to suffer
+from cold and exposure to the weather. They were so wild that we could
+not venture to let them run loose, and, as it was impossible to tether
+all of them under trees, the majority were left exposed to the pitiless
+pelting of the storms; and they certainly made a very wretched appearance
+as they stood with their sterns presented to the blast, and the water
+pouring from their sides in perfect streams. I do not know whether this
+was a very extraordinary season, but it is certain that if all rainy
+periods in North-West Australia resemble it, to attempt to explore the
+country at this time of the year would be fruitless. Such a good supply
+of rain is a great advantage to an occupied country through which regular
+lines of communication exist; as it then raises but slight impediments to
+travellers; but the case is very different to first explorers who have to
+find a ford over every stream and a passage across every swamp, and who
+constantly run the risk of involving themselves in a perfectly impassable
+region.
+
+NATIVES NEAR THE CAMP.
+
+March 19.
+
+This morning was also ushered in with torrents of rain, chequered by
+occasional intervals of fine weather of perhaps half an hour's duration.
+Another sheep died and several of the ponies were very unwell. The men
+who had been shifting the tethers of the horses at noon returned with the
+intelligence that, during the period of their absence from the
+encampment, a party of natives must have been close to us, watching our
+movements, for that when they went out there were no traces of them near
+the camp, which were now discernible in nearly every direction around us.
+
+I selected the best bushman of my party and went off to see whether
+anything was to be apprehended from these natives, but I soon found that
+the report was in some degree exaggerated. Some natives had crept up to
+within about a hundred yards of us, probably with the intention of making
+a reconnaissance, and of then framing their future plans; they had
+however been disturbed by the return of the men from the horses, and then
+made off. It appears that they had approached us by walking up a stream
+of water so as to conceal their trail, and then turned out of the stream
+up its right bank; and although they had carefully trod in one another's
+foot-marks, so as to conceal their number, we could make out the traces
+of at least six or seven different men, which we followed to the spot
+where, whilst creeping about to watch us, they had been disturbed. From
+this point these children of the bush had disappeared, as it were by
+magic: not a twig was broken, not a stone was turned, and we could not
+perceive that the heavy drops of rain had been shaken from a single blade
+of grass. We made wide casts in different directions but, not being able
+to hit on their trail, I returned to the tents, more than ever convinced
+of the necessity of being constantly on the watch against beings who were
+often near us when we least dreamt of their presence, and, in an
+unguarded moment, might so easily surprise and spear some of the party.
+
+APPEARANCE OF THE COUNTRY.
+
+The rain continued to fall throughout the 20th, rendering our condition
+every hour worse. Towards noon however the weather cleared a little, and
+in a fine interval I mounted a high range of basaltic hills which lay
+about a mile and a half to the westward. These hills were the highest
+which I had yet ascended; and from them I gained a very extensive view.
+The farthest extremity of the sandstone range which lay to the southward
+and eastward did not appear to be more than ten or twelve miles distant.
+Behind this barren range there again rose the conical tops of basaltic
+hills, clothed in the greenest grass; and beyond these, in the far
+south-east, I made out with the telescope a range of very lofty hills,
+which, stretching their heads high into the clouds, left me without means
+of forming any idea of their elevation: but even the portion of them
+which met my view must have had a very considerable altitude. I took a
+set of angles from this point but the mistiness of the day rendered it
+very unfit for my purpose. Whilst I was thus occupied, we heard the cries
+and calls of a party of natives between us and the tents. From the
+loudness and proximity of these I augured badly and therefore hurried my
+return; but we neither saw the natives themselves nor their tracks, and
+were quite in ignorance as to what had been their intentions. Soon after
+sunset the weather cleared up a little, and the stars, which came peeping
+out, promised well for the next day.
+
+NATIVES NEAR THE CAMP AGAIN.
+
+March 21.
+
+Although it had rained during the night and the sun this morning rose
+bright and clear the country was still impassable owing to the late
+continued torrents. I therefore went out with a detachment for the
+purpose of exploring a route by which we could proceed the next day, as
+well as to define some more points in the country we were about to enter.
+In the course of our walk we crossed the track of the natives we had
+heard yesterday. Their party must have been large, for they approached to
+within about three hundred yards of the tents, leaving a trail as broad
+and large as was made by our ponies and party together. I did not much
+like their hanging about us for so many days as I rather mistrusted their
+intentions; their object however appeared to have been to examine the
+ponies, for they had only come as far as the tethering ground and, after
+wandering about there a little, had again retired. We were unfortunate in
+our search for a good line of country by which to proceed, but I made
+some important additions to my map.
+
+MARSH AND SANDSTONE RANGE.
+
+March 22.
+
+As fine weather had apparently set in again we this morning resumed our
+journey. The poor ponies looked very weak and wretched when they were
+brought up to start, and we were all ragged, dirty, and worn out from the
+constant exposure to wind and rain; indeed our appearance was altogether
+very miserable on moving off, and our progress, too, very slow and
+fatiguing, both to ourselves and the horses, on account of the swampy
+nature of the ground; but we strenuously persevered until near noon, when
+I halted for breakfast at the foot of some lofty hills, at the base of
+which ran the stream which was giving us so much trouble. As soon as we
+had despatched our scanty breakfast I tried with a party to find a
+passage across the marsh, but our search was in vain and, on examining
+the sandstone range on the other side of the stream, I found it so
+precipitous that our weak ponies could not possibly have clambered up it.
+
+NATIVE BRIDGE.
+
+Whilst on our return we found a native bridge, formed of a fallen tree,
+which rested against two others and was secured in its position by forked
+boughs.
+
+PRECIPITOUS PASS.
+
+I was thus obliged to continue to travel in a north-east direction for
+the remainder of the afternoon, when we found, at last, a passage over
+the marsh, but made vain attempts to cross the sandstone range in no less
+than four different places; the ponies were so weak and the route so
+precipitous that each time we were obliged to return. At length we
+reached the watershed, from one side of which the streams ran down to
+Prince Regent's River, and from the other to the Glenelg; the rocks on
+the south side were ancient sandstone resting on basalt, and on the
+opposite the basalt crept out, forming elevated hills. This position was
+remarkable both in a geological and geographical point of view; and, the
+sandstone range over against us looking rather more accessible than it
+had previously done, I determined to halt here for the night and examine
+the country; but my resolution was scarcely formed ere such heavy storms
+of rain, accompanied by thunder and lightning, came on as totally to
+prevent me from seeing to any distance or taking any bearings.
+
+On entering the old red sandstone district again the parakeets became
+once more common, and the green ants reappeared. These last seem to be
+solely confined to the sandstone, for I did not see one without its
+limits.
+
+ASCENT OF THE SANDSTONE RANGE.
+
+March 23.
+
+This morning we made a more fortunate effort to ascend the sandstone
+range which had yesterday so baffled our efforts; and having commenced
+the ascent at 6 A.M. reached the summit at 10, but the poor little ponies
+were dreadfully exhausted. Having now established ourselves upon this
+narrow elevated tableland the next thing was to descend on the other
+side. The prospect to the southward and eastward was not very cheering,
+for before we could make any further progress in either of those
+directions we had a perfect precipice to get down, at the foot of which
+lay a beautiful and verdant valley about three miles wide, diversified
+with wood and water; whilst a large cascade which could be seen falling
+in a dark forest on the other side added much to the scenery. Beyond the
+valley rose again rocky sandstone ranges, but I knew that the width of
+these was inconsiderable.
+
+DESCENT ON THE OPPOSITE SIDE.
+
+After a very tedious search we discovered a sort of pass leading
+diagonally down the face of the precipice; but before attempting to take
+the ponies over this it was necessary to move many large rocks and
+stones, to cut down trees, and otherwise make it practicable for them.
+All hands however set cheerfully to work, and by 1 P.M. the whole party
+had safely reached the bottom of the precipice. The valley that we were
+in was very fertile but, from the incessant rain which had lately fallen,
+the centre part of it had become an impassable swamp, and we were thus
+once more obliged to turn to the northward in order to travel round it:
+but as rest and food were necessary both for horses and men we halted at
+the foot of the sandstone range for breakfast.
+
+REMARKABLE FRILLED LIZARD. BEAUTIFUL COUNTRY.
+
+As we were pursuing our route in the afternoon we fell in with a specimen
+of the remarkable frilled lizard (Chlamydosaurus kingii); this animal
+measures about twenty-four inches from the tip of the nose to the point
+of its tail, and lives principally in trees, although it can run very
+swiftly along the ground: when not provoked or disturbed it moves quietly
+about, with its frill lying back in plaits upon the body: but it is very
+irascible and, directly it is frightened, elevates the frill or ruff and
+makes for a tree; where if overtaken it throws itself upon its stern,
+raising its head and chest as high as it can upon the forelegs, then
+doubling its tail underneath the body and displaying a very formidable
+set of teeth. From the concavity of its large frill it boldly faces any
+opponent, biting fiercely whatever is presented to it, and even venturing
+so far in its rage as to fairly make a fierce charge at its enemy. We
+repeatedly tried the courage of this lizard, and it certainly fought
+bravely whenever attacked. From the animal making so much use of this
+frill as a covering and means of defence for its body this is most
+probably one of the uses to which nature intended the appendage should be
+applied.
+
+We at length reached the watershed connecting the country we had left
+with that we were entering upon, and were now again enabled to turn to
+the eastward and thus to travel round the swamp. This watershed consisted
+principally of a range of elevated hills from which streams were thrown
+off to the Glenelg and to Prince Regent's River. The scenery here was
+very fine, but I have so often before described the same character of
+landscape that it will be sufficient to say we again looked down from
+high land on a very fertile country, covered with a tropical vegetation
+and lying between two navigable rivers. I can compare this to no other
+Australian scenery, for I have met with nothing in the other portions of
+the continent which at all resembles it. When we had nearly headed the
+valley the night closed in so rapidly on us that I was obliged to halt
+the party; and by the time the arrangements for security and rest were
+completed it was quite dark.
+
+CURIOUS NEST.
+
+March 24.
+
+This morning we started as soon as it was light and, continuing our route
+round the valley, passed the beautiful cascade seen yesterday and, after
+fording a clear running brook like an English trout stream, we began to
+ascend the next sandstone range. On gaining the summit we fell in with a
+very remarkable nest, or what appeared to me to be such, and which I
+shall describe more particularly when I advert to the natural history of
+this part of the country. We had previously seen several of them, and
+they had always afforded us food for conjecture as to the agent and
+purpose of such singular structures.
+
+DEEP VALLEY.
+
+Soon after quitting this nest we found a very convenient pass through a
+deep and fertile valley, which led directly up into the heart of the
+sandstone range; a fine stream ran through it in which were several large
+reservoirs of fresh water; the hills on each side were lofty, being at
+times of a rounded character, and at others broken into precipitous and
+fantastic cliffs; the country was thinly wooded with large timber, and
+the varied scenery, the facility which the country afforded for
+travelling, and the pleasure incident on finding ourselves clear of the
+marshy ground which had so long encumbered our movements, combined to
+make me push along as fast as possible; the only check was the heat of
+the sun; and it should always be borne in mind that no parallel whatever
+can be instituted between travels in tropical and extra-tropical
+Australia, for in the former the more exhausting nature of the climate
+unfits both men and horses for making long journeys, and indeed renders
+it almost impossible to travel during the heat of the day, whilst the
+difficult nature of the ground caused by the dense vegetation, the
+jungles, the ravines, and marshes, render it altogether impracticable to
+move at night through an unknown country.
+
+WILD OATS.
+
+We crossed during the day several recent tracks of natives but did not
+fall in with the natives themselves; we also saw many kangaroos, and
+halted for the night on an elevated basaltic ridge, at a point close to
+which there was a large crop of the grain which we called wild oats. This
+is a remarkable vegetable production, growing to the height of from five
+to six feet; in the stalk, the shape, and mode of insertion of the leaves
+it is similar to the oat of Europe; the manner in which the seeds grow in
+the two plants is also the same, and the seeds are nearly of the same
+size, but the Australian oat is furnished with a beard like the barley.
+When hungry I have repeatedly eaten these oats, which in some parts grow
+in such abundance that several acres of them might be mown at once; and I
+have little doubt that this plant would with cultivation turn out to be a
+very great addition to our tropical grains.*
+
+(*Footnote. I am informed that the seeds of it which I introduced into
+the Isle of France in 1838 have greatly multiplied and that the plants
+are in a very flourishing state.)
+
+March 25.
+
+This morning we resumed our journey, crossing a succession of basaltic
+valleys. The vegetation was luxuriant beyond description; and it was
+ludicrous to see the heavy-tailed kangaroos leaping and floundering about
+in the long grass when they had quitted their beaten pathways and were
+suddenly disturbed by our approach.
+
+CURIOUS BIRDS.
+
+In crossing the second of these large valleys we saw two large white and
+black birds, more like pelicans than any other kind I am acquainted with;
+they had webbed feet, and the colour and form of their body resembled
+that of the pelican, but the head and beak were very different; after
+flying two or three times round our heads, well out of shot, so as to
+have a good peep at us, they flew away, and for the first and last time I
+saw this curious bird.
+
+We now ascended a ridge of sandstone tableland which crossed our route:
+this was about three miles in width, and at its southern extremity were
+two lofty basaltic hills, from between which a small valley led down into
+another very large one that was the general receptacle of the streams
+which came pouring in from all directions. This last might be considered
+as a good type of the valleys in this portion of the country: at its
+northern extremity it was about four miles wide, being bounded on all
+sides by rocky wooded ranges with dark gullies from which numerous
+streams and springs poured forth their watery contributions to the main
+one. This last ran nearly down the centre of the principal valley, the
+width of which gradually contracted towards the south, where it
+terminated almost in a point, having a narrow lateral opening at the
+south-west end of not more than a quarter of a mile wide, and bounded by
+steep cliffs on each side, so as to form a perfect gorge, the direction
+of which was due west. In about a mile and a half this gorge met a cross
+valley, running from the south to the north, down which the waters were
+poured, so as to run back as it were upon their former course.
+
+BASALTIC VALLEY.
+
+We halted for the day in the main valley, which from the run of the
+waters above described must necessarily have been very elevated; it was,
+moreover, nearly level, forming indeed a sort of enclosed plateau, so
+that the streams, which both on entering and quitting it ran bubbling
+merrily along, preserved whilst in it a sluggish and scarcely perceptible
+course. When to this I add that it was composed of basaltic rocks and
+received the deposit of such an extent of elevated basaltic land I need
+scarcely add that it was highly fertile. I believe that these valleys,
+which are very common in North-Western Australia and contain from four to
+five thousand acres each, are as rich as any other spots upon the globe,
+and moreover possess the great advantage of being situated close to
+navigable rivers.
+
+March 26.
+
+This morning we moved down the valley in which we had been encamped
+yesterday and, as it was thinly wooded, we experienced no difficulty
+whatever until the main stream suddenly turned off from south to due
+west; this was a sufficient proof that the gorge of the valley was on its
+western side, but I was not anxious to follow the course of the water,
+from the apprehension of being led into low and marshy land; I thought
+also that a low ridge which I saw to the south could easily be crossed,
+and that we should thus gain access to a valley similar to that we were
+in. I therefore resolved to cross the stream at the first ford we could
+find, and after a little trouble we discovered one suited to our purpose
+through which the ponies passed in safety.
+
+IMPASSABLE SANDSTONE RANGE.
+
+We then continued our route in a due southerly direction until we reached
+the low range which I had before seen; this range turned out to be
+composed of sandstone, and where we made it it was so rocky and
+precipitous as to be quite impracticable. We therefore travelled along it
+in an easterly direction for about three miles, but throughout this
+distance it presented no single pass through which I could hope to
+penetrate. The sun having now become very powerful we halted for
+breakfast; and whilst this meal was preparing, I sent out a detached
+party to search for a road, which soon returned to report that they were
+able to find no path by which we could proceed.
+
+I did not however like to retrace our footsteps without having made a
+careful search; and although my wound was still open and very painful I
+rapidly swallowed a portion of my allowance of damper and started with
+another detachment on foot to examine the country. The sandstone range,
+which ran nearly east and west, was terminated everywhere throughout its
+southern side by perfectly precipitous rocks, at the foot of which lay a
+fertile valley, resembling the one in which we had encamped yesterday
+except that it was on a much lower level. The position that we were in
+appeared to be the pass by which the natives communicated with the
+country to the south of us, for marks of them were visible everywhere
+about, but they could easily clamber about these precipitous rocks,
+though it was quite impossible to get the ponies down, even by forming a
+path, as we had often previously done.
+
+PAINTED CAVE. DRAWING ON ROOF OF A CAVE.
+
+Finding that it would be useless to lose more time in searching for a
+route through this country I proceeded to rejoin the party once more; but
+whilst returning to them my attention was drawn to the numerous remains
+of native fires and encampments which we met with, till at last, on
+looking over some bushes at the sandstone rocks which were above us, I
+suddenly saw from one of them a most extraordinary large figure peering
+down upon me. Upon examination this proved to be a drawing at the
+entrance to a cave, which on entering I found to contain, besides, many
+remarkable paintings.
+
+The cave appeared to be a natural hollow in the sandstone rocks; its
+floor was elevated about five feet from the ground, and numerous flat
+broken pieces of the same rock, which were scattered about, looked at a
+distance like steps leading up to the cave, which was thirty-five feet
+wide at the entrance and sixteen feet deep; but beyond this several small
+branches ran further back. Its height in front was rather more than eight
+feet, the roof being formed by a solid slab of sandstone about nine feet
+thick and which rapidly inclined towards the back of the cave, which was
+there not more than five feet high.
+
+On this sloping roof the principal figure (Number 1) which I have just
+alluded to, was drawn; in order to produce the greater effect the rock
+about it was painted black and the figure itself coloured with the most
+vivid red and white. It thus appeared to stand out from the rock; and I
+was certainly rather surprised at the moment that I first saw this
+gigantic head and upper part of a body bending over and staring grimly
+down at me.
+
+DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES.
+
+It would be impossible to convey in words an adequate idea of this
+uncouth and savage figure; I shall therefore only give such a succinct
+account of this and the other paintings as will serve as a sort of
+description to accompany the annexed plates.
+
+The dimensions of the figure were:
+
+Length of head and face 2 feet.
+Width of face 17 inches.
+Length from bottom of face to navel 2 feet 6 inches.
+
+Its head was encircled by bright red rays, something like the rays which
+one sees proceeding from the sun when depicted on the sign-board of a
+public house; inside of this came a broad stripe of very brilliant red,
+which was coped by lines of white, but both inside and outside of this
+red space were narrow stripes of a still deeper red, intended probably to
+mark its boundaries; the face was painted vividly white, and the eyes
+black, being however surrounded by red and yellow lines; the body, hands,
+and arms were outlined in red, the body being curiously painted with red
+stripes and bars.
+
+DRAWING OF FOUR HEADS.
+
+Upon the rock which formed the left hand wall of this cave, and which
+partly faced you on entering, was a very singular painting (Number 2)
+vividly coloured, representing four heads joined together. From the mild
+expression of the countenances I imagined them to represent females, and
+they appeared to be drawn in such a manner and in such a position as to
+look up at the principal figure which I have before described; each had a
+very remarkable head-dress, coloured with a deep bright blue, and one had
+a necklace on. Both of the lower figures had a sort of dress painted with
+red in the same manner as that of the principal figure, and one of them
+had a band round her waist. Each of the four faces was marked by a
+totally distinct expression of countenance, and, although none of them
+had mouths, two, I thought, were otherwise rather good looking. The whole
+painting was executed on a white ground, and its dimensions were:
+
+Total length of painting 3 feet 6 3/4 inches.
+Breadth across two upper heads 2 feet 6 inches.
+Ditto across the two lower ones 3 feet 1 1/2 inches.
+
+The next most remarkable drawing in the cave (Number 3) was an ellipse,
+three feet in length and one foot ten inches in breadth: the outside line
+of this painting was of a deep blue colour, the body of the ellipse being
+of a bright yellow dotted over with red lines and spots, whilst across it
+ran two transverse lines of blue. The portion of the painting above
+described formed the ground, or main part of the picture, and upon this
+ground was painted a kangaroo in the act of feeding, two stone
+spearheads, and two black balls; one of the spearheads was flying to the
+kangaroo, and one away from it; so that the whole subject probably
+constituted a sort of charm by which the luck of an enquirer in killing
+game could be ascertained.
+
+TWO OTHER DRAWINGS.
+
+There was another rather humorous sketch (Number 4) which represented a
+native in the act of carrying a kangaroo; the height of the man being
+three feet. The number of drawings in the cave could not altogether have
+been less than from fifty to sixty, but the majority of them consisted of
+men, kangaroos, etc.; the figures being carelessly and badly executed and
+having evidently a very different origin to those which I have first
+described. Another very striking piece of art was exhibited in the little
+gloomy cavities situated at the back of the main cavern. In these
+instances some rock at the sides of the cavity had been selected, and the
+stamp of a hand and arm by some means transferred to it; this outline of
+the hand and arm was then painted black, and the rock about it white, so
+that on entering that part of the cave it appeared as if a human hand and
+arm were projecting through a crevice admitting light.
+
+After having discovered this cave I returned to the party and, directing
+them to prepare for moving on, I ordered that as soon as all was ready
+they should proceed past the cave, so that all would have an opportunity
+of examining it, and in the meantime I returned in order to make sketches
+of the principal paintings. The party soon arrived and, when my sketches
+and notes were completed, we retraced a portion of our route of this
+morning, moving round the sandstone ridge through one portion of which I
+saw a sort of pass which I thought might perhaps afford us a means of
+egress. I therefore halted the party and moved up with Corporal Auger to
+examine it. After proceeding some distance we found a cave larger than
+the one seen this morning; of its actual size however I have no idea, for
+being pressed for time I did not attempt to explore it, having merely
+ascertained that it contained no paintings.
+
+INTAGLIO CUT IN A ROCK.
+
+I was moving on when we observed the profile of a human face and head cut
+out in a sandstone rock which fronted the cave; this rock was so hard
+that to have removed such a large portion of it with no better tool than
+a knife and hatchet made of stone, such as the Australian natives
+generally possess, would have been a work of very great labour. The head
+was two feet in length, and sixteen inches in breadth in the broadest
+part; the depth of the profile increased gradually from the edges where
+it was nothing, to the centre where it was an inch and a half; the ear
+was rather badly placed, but otherwise the whole of the work was good,
+and far superior to what a savage race could be supposed capable of
+executing. The only proof of antiquity that it bore about it was that all
+the edges of the cutting were rounded and perfectly smooth, much more so
+than they could have been from any other cause than long exposure to
+atmospheric influences.
+
+ROUTE CONTINUED. HIGH GRASS.
+
+After having made a sketch of this head (see the accompanying plate) I
+returned to the party and, as I had not been able to find a path which
+would lead us across the sandstone ridge, we continued our course round
+it, retracing our steps until we reached the stream which had been
+crossed this morning, and then moved westward, keeping along its southern
+bank until we had turned the sandstone range and reached another stream
+running from the south, which we traced up in the direction of its
+source, travelling through a series of basaltic valleys of so luxuriant a
+character that those of the party who were not very tall travelled, as
+they themselves expressed it, between two high green walls, over which
+they could not see; and these green walls were composed of rich grass
+which the ponies ate with avidity. On a subsequent occasion when we
+visited this valley we had to call to one another in order to ascertain
+our relative positions when only a few yards apart; and yet the
+vegetation was neither rank nor coarse, but as fine a grass as I have
+ever seen.
+
+REFLECTIONS.
+
+We halted for the night in one of these lovely valleys; a clear stream
+bubbled along within about fifty yards of us and, about a mile beyond,
+two darkly-wooded basaltic hills raised their heads, and between these
+and the stream our ponies were feeding in grass higher than themselves. I
+sat in the fading light, looking at the beautiful scenery around me,
+which now for the first time gladdened the eyes of Europeans; and I
+wondered that so fair a land should only be the abode of savage men; and
+then I thought of the curious paintings we had this day seen, of the
+timid character of the natives, of their anomalous position in so fertile
+a country, and wondered how long these things were to be. With so wide a
+field of conjecture before me, thought naturally thronged on thought, and
+the night was far advanced ere I laid down to seek repose from the
+fatigues of the day.
+
+DEEP STREAM.
+
+March 27.
+
+The ponies having been routed out of their long and excellent feed,
+amongst which indeed it was no easy matter to find them, we moved on. I
+could not but reflect how different our position and the condition of the
+ponies would have been had we known as much of the country at first
+starting as we did at present; but these reflections were now useless.
+With the exception of one small rocky valley, the whole of our morning's
+journey was through a rich and fertile country until we reached a deep
+stream, thirty or forty yards wide and apparently navigable for large
+boats up to this point; it ran away to the westward, but with a current
+scarcely perceptible.
+
+DIFFICULT APPROACH TO IT.
+
+It was very difficult to approach this stream on account of the marshy
+nature of its banks, which were overgrown with bamboo and, even if we
+could have got the ponies to it, it was not fordable here. We therefore
+turned up it in an easterly direction to look for a passage over it; and
+in so doing were necessarily compelled to cross many smaller streams and
+a great deal of swampy ground in which some of the most weakly of the
+ponies got bogged and were only extricated with great difficulty. However
+annoying this was I could not but smile at the distress of some of the
+men, who had contracted a friendship for the animals they had so long
+led, when one of their favourites got into a difficulty. The exclamations
+of Ruston the old sailor were particularly amusing, as, according to the
+position in which the animal got bogged, he used to roar out for someone
+"to come and give his pony a heave upon the starboard or larboard
+quarters;" and once, when violently alarmed at the danger he imagined his
+pet pony to be in, he shouted amain, "By G---, Sir, she'll go down by the
+stern." At last however we got clear of the marsh, and reached a rocky
+gorge where this stream issued from the hills, and here we stopped for
+breakfast
+
+This spot was very picturesque. The river as it issued from the gorge in
+the high wooded hills first formed a series of cascades, and then at the
+mouth of the gorge expanded into a large pool. It was at this point,
+although only a secondary stream in this country, far larger than any of
+the rivers of South-Western Australia. At the gorges, where they issue
+from the hills, its banks were clothed with the pandanus, lofty gum
+trees, and a very luxuriant vegetation. We first sought for a ford up the
+river in the direction of the rapids, but our search was fruitless. On
+returning to breakfast I found that the men had caught three fish and one
+of the long-necked fresh-water turtle which are common over the whole of
+this continent. Mr. Lushington had also shot several black cockatoos so
+that we were supplied with a meal of meat, a luxury we had not enjoyed
+for a long time.
+
+CROSS A LARGE RIVER.
+
+After breakfast Corporal Auger started alone and returned in about an
+hour to report that he had found a ford across the river close to us. I
+therefore ordered the ponies to be brought up and we at once moved on.
+The river where we crossed it in south latitude 15 degrees 49 minutes,
+east longitude 125 degrees 6 minutes, was about a hundred yards wide. It
+was however nowhere more than knee deep as we wound through it, following
+a circuitous course; but we passed very deep parts on each side, and I
+could not but admire the perseverance of Auger in having discovered so
+very intricate a ford as this was. There were several minor channels to
+the stream not much wider than an English ditch; they were however very
+deep and went winding along through groves of the pandanus and lofty
+reeds, which formed leafy tunnels above them. It was some time before we
+got rid of the main stream, and we then found ourselves on a narrow
+terrace of land which was bounded on the left by rocky cliffs, and on the
+right by a large tributary of the stream we had just crossed. This
+tributary was not fordable here so we were compelled to travel up the
+terrace where our way was much impeded by the luxuriant vegetation and by
+fallen trees of great magnitude; indeed of a size which those alone who
+have traversed tropical virgin forests can conceive.
+
+That we could not get off this terrace was the more provoking from
+seeing, immediately on the other side of the stream, one of those wide
+open basaltic valleys which I have so often mentioned. We at length
+reached the point where the stream issued from the high land and, having
+here forded it, entered the large valley, but in its centre we found
+another impassable stream and, in order to turn this, were obliged to
+travel round the valley; but before we could gain the head of it we had
+to cross two streams which ran into it on the eastern side. These however
+gave us but little trouble.
+
+NATIVE HUT.
+
+On the tongue of land between them we found a native hut which differed
+from any before seen, in having a sloping roof. After passing this hut we
+began to wind up a rocky ascent, and just at sunset reached the
+watershed, which threw off streams to the north and south: the valley
+which lay immediately to the south of us appearing as fertile as that
+which we had been travelling through for the whole day.
+
+March 28.
+
+The first part of our journey was through a fertile valley, about four
+miles in length, through which wound a rapid stream. It was clothed with
+the richest grass, abounded in kangaroos, and was marked at its southern
+extremity by a very remarkable precipitous hill. The heights to the
+westward were all composed of basalt, whilst those to the eastward were
+sandstone. On passing the ridge of hills which bounded this valley to the
+south we entered on a sandstone district, although the hills to the
+westward were still basaltic.
+
+NATURAL GRAPERY. GRAPE-LIKE FRUIT.
+
+I here halted the party for breakfast by the side of a stream and, on
+casting my eyes upwards, I found that I was in a sort of natural grapery,
+for the tree under which I lay was covered with a plant which bears a
+sort of grape and I believe is a species of cissus.
+
+We met altogether with three varieties of this plant, all of which were
+creepers but differing from each other in their habits and in the size of
+their fruit. Two of them generally ran along the ground or amongst low
+shrubs and the third climbed high trees; this latter kind bore the finest
+fruit, and it was a plant of this description which I today found. Its
+fruit in size, appearance, and flavour resembled a small black grape, but
+the stones were different, being larger, and shaped like a coffee berry.
+All three produced their fruit in bunches, like the vine, and, the day
+being very sultry, I do not know that we could have fallen upon anything
+more acceptable than this fruit was to us.
+
+FORD THE GLENELG. ANOTHER RIVER.
+
+After breakfast we continued our route through a barren, sandy district,
+heavily timbered; and in the course of the afternoon met either the
+Glenelg or a very considerable branch of that stream in south latitude 15
+degrees 56 minutes, east longitude 125 degrees 8 minutes: it was 250
+yards across and formed a series of rapids at this point, where it
+emerged from a rocky gorge. Just above the rapids we found a good ford,
+the average depth of which was not more than three feet. After crossing,
+the banks on the other side were clothed with a species of Casuarina
+which I did not observe elsewhere. The country on that side of the stream
+was sandy and, as I found by the time we had proceeded two or three miles
+that we were getting embarrassed in a sandstone range, I halted the party
+for the night and went on to try if I could find a pass across it. My
+exertions were not however very successful: I came upon a path which I
+thought might be rendered practicable for the ponies over the first part
+of the range, but found no line by which we could proceed without making
+a road.
+
+WEAKNESS OF THE MEN.
+
+March 29.
+
+At dawn this morning the men were at work forming the road; the poor
+fellows were however so much enfeebled from constant fatigue and very
+inefficient nutriment, whilst exposed to the great heat of a tropical
+climate, that they were unable to exert the same energy as formerly, and
+I could not but be struck with the great difference in their strength as
+evinced in their incapacity to move stones and other obstacles, which a
+few weeks ago they would have had little difficulty in lifting. The path
+was however soon made as passable as our abilities permitted, and we
+started along it with the ponies; some of them were however no less
+reduced than the men and, in endeavouring to lead one of them up a rocky
+hill, it fell, and from weakness sank under its light load without making
+an effort to save itself; the spine was thus so severely injured as to
+render it unable to move the hinder extremities; we therefore killed the
+poor creature and moved on.
+
+SANDSTONE CAVE.
+
+Throughout the day we continued gradually the ascent of the range which
+we had yesterday commenced. The large valley we were in led us by a
+gentle slope winding higher and higher amongst the rocky hills; at first
+it had been so wide as to appear like a plain, but by degrees it
+contracted its dimensions, until, towards the afternoon, it suddenly
+assumed almost the character of a gorge. Just at this point we saw in the
+cliffs on our left hand a cave, which I entered in the hope of finding
+native paintings.
+
+Nor was I disappointed for it contained several of a very curious
+character. This cave was a natural chasm in the sandstone rocks, elevated
+at its entrance several feet above the level of the ground, from which
+the ascent to it was by a natural flight of sandstone steps, irregular,
+of course, but formed of successive thin strata, resting one upon
+another, and thus constituting an easy ascent; these successive layers
+continued into the body of the cave, quite to the end, where was a
+central slab, more elevated than the others, and on each side of this two
+other larger ones which reached the top of the cave and partly served to
+support the immense sandstone slab that formed the roof.
+
+ANOTHER PAINTED CAVE.
+
+The cave was twenty feet deep and at the entrance seven feet high and
+about forty feet wide. As before stated the floor gradually approached
+the roof in the direction of the bottom of the cavern, and its width also
+contracted, so that at the extremity it was not broader than the slab of
+rock, which formed a natural seat.
+
+FIGURE DRAWN ON THE ROOF.
+
+The principal painting in it was the figure of a man, ten feet six inches
+in length, clothed from the chin downwards in a red garment which reached
+to the wrists and ankles; beyond this red dress the feet and hands
+protruded and were badly executed.
+
+The face and head of the figure were enveloped in a succession of
+circular bandages or rollers, or what appeared to be painted to represent
+such. These were coloured red, yellow, and white; and the eyes were the
+only features represented on the face. Upon the highest bandage or roller
+a series of lines were painted in red, but, although so regularly done as
+to indicate that they have some meaning, it was impossible to tell
+whether they were intended to depict written characters or some ornament
+for the head. This figure was so drawn on the roof that its feet were
+just in front of the natural seat, whilst its head and face looked
+directly down on anyone who stood in the entrance of the cave, but it was
+totally invisible from the outside. The painting was more injured by the
+damp and atmosphere, and had the appearance of being much more
+defaced and ancient, than any of the others which we had seen.*
+
+(*Footnote. This figure brings to mind the description of the Prophet
+Ezekiel: Men portrayed upon the wall, the images of the Chaldeans
+portrayed in vermilion, girded with girdles upon their loins, exceeding
+in dyed attire upon their heads, all of them princes to look to, after
+the manner of the Babylonians of Chaldea, the land of their nativity.
+Chapter 23:14, 15.)
+
+OTHER PAINTINGS.
+
+There were two other paintings, one on each of the rocks which stood on
+either side of the natural seat; they were carefully executed and yet had
+no apparent design in them; unless they were intended to represent some
+fabulous species of turtle; for the natives of Australia are generally
+fond of narrating tales of fabulous and extraordinary animals such as
+gigantic snakes, etc.
+
+One of the party who appeared much amused at these different paintings
+walked straight up the cavern, gradually ascending the steps until he
+reached the slab at the end, and then, taking his hat off with a solemn
+air, seated himself; to his own, and our surprise, his bare head just
+touched the roof of the cave, and on examining this part of it we found
+it fairly polished, and very greasy, from all appearance caused by the
+constant rubbing against it of the head of a person whilst seated on the
+rock. This and other circumstances led us to conjecture that the cave was
+frequented by some wise man or native doctor who was resorted to by the
+inhabitants in cases of disease or witchcraft. We saw many footmarks
+about, and found other signs of the close presence of the natives, but
+they themselves remained invisible.
+
+BEAUTIFUL SCENERY.
+
+The cave was situated in an exceedingly picturesque position, it occupied
+the corner leading from a wide valley to a narrow ravine, down which came
+bubbling along a clear deep stream, which passed within a few yards of
+the cave's mouth. After making sketches of the paintings and for a few
+minutes admiring this romantic spot we moved up the ravine, which
+appeared to lead by a gradual ascent to the summit of the mountain range
+that now completely hemmed us in both to the southward and eastward.
+
+This ravine, in the luxuriance of its vegetation and the great size of
+the trees, as well as in its rapid stream, at times leaping in cascades
+or foaming in rapids, resembled those we had before seen in the sandstone
+ranges, but it differed from them in the greater height of the
+surrounding hills and cliffs which, being overshadowed with hanging trees
+and climbing plants, presented as rich a painting as the eye could
+behold: and, as these grew golden with the rays of the setting sun or
+were thrown into deep and massive shadows, I could not but regret that no
+Claude of the tropics had arisen to transfer to canvas scenes which words
+cannot express.
+
+But however beautiful the scenery was the road we had to travel was so
+extremely inconvenient that the view scarcely made amends for it; we were
+continually compelled from old land-slips to cross from one side of the
+stream to the other, and this, from the depth of the ford and the
+slipperiness of the rocky bottom, was sometimes no easy task; moreover
+the ravine continued rapidly to contract in width and to become more
+rugged and precipitous; I therefore turned off to the right into a rocky
+amphitheatre which seemed well suited for encamping, and halted the party
+for the night; then, taking one of my men with me, I ascended the cliffs
+to see if I could make out any line by which to get clear of the
+precipices which embarrassed us, but on all sides I could descry nothing
+but lofty hills and frowning crags, except in the direction of the ravine
+which appeared to run directly into the heart of the mountain chain; I
+therefore turned about to rejoin the party, with the intention of
+continuing the same course the ensuing morning as we had done this
+evening.
+
+NARROW ESCAPE.
+
+Both myself and the man who was with me had however a narrow escape of
+being shot, for, as we were returning he let his rifle fall and it
+exploded, the ball striking the rocks close to us before it glanced into
+the air.
+
+OTHER CAVES.
+
+March 30.
+
+At the earliest dawn we continued our course up the valley, which rapidly
+became narrower and more inclined so that it formed, as it were, a series
+of elevated terraces, at the edge of each of which was a little cascade.
+We found two caves in the cliffs on the right hand, both of which were
+painted all over but with no regularity of pattern: the only colours used
+were red, yellow, and white. The largest of the caves exceeded in breadth
+and depth any others I had seen, but it was only three feet high; in this
+one there were several drawings of fish, one of which was four feet in
+length; these I copied, although they were badly executed. The caves
+themselves cannot be considered as at all analogous to those I have
+before described.
+
+INCREASING DIFFICULTIES OF ROUTE. IMPASSABLE SANDSTONE RANGES.
+
+The difficulties of the road continued to increase rapidly, and the
+dimensions of the ravine became so contracted that I hesitated whether I
+should not turn up another which branched off to the right; previously
+however to taking this step I sent a man forward to examine the one we
+were in; he soon returned and reported that it terminated in a high
+cascade a few hundred yards further on. This intelligence confirming my
+previous opinion, I now moved up the ravine which came from the westward,
+but we had not proceeded for more than half a mile when the rugged nature
+of the country brought us to a complete stand; we found ourselves in a
+rocky area, bounded on all sides by cliffs, the only outlet from which
+was the path by which we had entered. I therefore halted the party for
+breakfast whilst I prepared to ascend some lofty pinnacles which lay to
+the south of us.
+
+The state of my wound rendered this exertion one of great pain and
+difficulty; I however accomplished it, and found myself on the top of a
+high rocky eminence which bore the appearance of having fallen into
+ruins; the prospect from it was cheerless in the extreme; to the north
+lay the rich valley country far below us, and to the south and east
+nothing could be seen but barren sandstone rocks and ranges rising one
+above the other until they met the horizon at no great distance from the
+eye; the only outlet, except the ravine by which we had approached,
+appeared to be by the westward, and I descended to the party in this
+direction to see if I could find a route from where they were to the
+terrace leading to that point. I struck on a place up the cliffs where I
+imagined it possible to construct a road by which the ponies could
+ascend, and then returned to breakfast.
+
+COUNTRY INACCESSIBLE FOR HORSES.
+
+As soon as our scanty meal had been concluded all hands were employed in
+making this road; and sincerely did I pity the feeble men, whom I saw in
+the burning heat of a tropical sun, which was reflected with redoubled
+intensity from the bare sandstone rocks, toiling to displace large stones
+and obstacles which they had hardly sufficient strength to move; not a
+murmur however escaped them; they saw the necessity of the case and
+exerted their failing energies as readily as they had done when these
+were in full strength and vigour. The road was at last made and we moved
+on to the westward, toiling for the remainder of the day amongst steep
+precipices of barren sandstone rocks and hills, utterly inaccessible to
+horses, till, finding our efforts to proceed useless, I at last turned
+the party about and halted them for the night just above where we had
+breakfasted; intending with the earliest dawn to renew my search for a
+pass by which we might cross this mountain range.
+
+
+CHAPTER 10. RETURN TO HANOVER BAY.
+
+UNSUCCESSFUL SEARCH FOR A PASS.
+
+March 31.
+
+This day at dawn I sent out a party under Mr. Lushington and Mr. Walker
+to try if any pass through the mountains could be found, but they
+returned in four or five hours to report that it was utterly impossible
+for horses to proceed further in the direction we desired. During their
+absence I had made a careful examination of the stores and found that,
+even at our reduced allowance, we had only provisions left for twenty
+days; our horses were also reduced in number to twelve, but these,
+excepting that their feet were sore, were rather improved in condition
+than otherwise since the commencement of the journey.
+
+CAUSES FOR RETURNING.
+
+My intention had always been, when I found myself reduced to such an
+extremity as the present, to proceed for a few days by forced marches
+towards the interior, accompanied by four men, and then, returning to the
+remainder of the party, to have taken all together back to the vessel;
+when there I knew I could have got four volunteers to accompany me and,
+having loaded the horses with ammunition and provisions, I had it in
+contemplation to have started with them again for Swan River. But these
+projects became now impracticable from the declining state of my health,
+consequent on having started too soon after having received my wound, to
+the exertions I was obliged daily to make whilst labouring under its
+effects, and to the want of those comforts which contribute so materially
+to restore an invalid to health. Our allowance of food too had been but
+scanty, and, whilst I fared as my men, who, unshattered in health, had
+yet grown thin and weak under privation, I, in proportion, had suffered
+far more.
+
+PREPARATIONS TO RETURN.
+
+Mr. Walker, who was aware of my design, came to me today and said he felt
+it his duty to recommend me without delay to return to the vessel; that
+as long as he thought the risk I ran was no more than he considered a man
+who had undertaken such a service should be prepared to incur, he had
+refrained from pressing this advice upon me, but in my present
+debilitated state exposure even for a single night might very probably
+cost me my life. To this opinion I felt constrained to yield, and Mr.
+Walker, having at my desire repeated it in a letter this afternoon, I
+arranged my plans accordingly.
+
+LIGHT EXPLORING PARTY SENT FORWARD UNDER LIEUTENANT LUSHINGTON.
+
+The march in advance, which, had my health permitted, I had intended to
+make myself, was now deputed to Mr. Lushington: four of those men who
+remained the strongest of our enfeebled band were selected for an
+excursion of three days under him; after which we were to return to the
+vessel.
+
+April 1 and 2.
+
+At dawn on Sunday the 1st the party started; and these two days I
+occupied myself in making magnetic and astronomical observations. Our
+latitude I found by two meridian altitudes of the moon to be 16 degrees 0
+minutes 45 seconds south, and our longitude by chronometer 125 degrees 11
+minutes east.
+
+REPORT OF ADVANCED PARTY.
+
+April 3.
+
+Mr. Lushington's party came in at 12 o'clock this day, reporting as
+follows: That they proceeded about eighteen miles from the camp upon a
+course of 195 degrees from the north, and the remaining half upon a
+course of 155 1/2 degrees; that the whole of their route lay over a
+country utterly impassable for horses owing to the steepness of the
+hills; that they crossed a great number of under-features at right angles
+to their route, between which lay small streams flowing away to the
+westward, and which under-features were so steep in their descent to the
+southward that, in going down, the men repeatedly fell: both grass and
+water were however everywhere abundant; and they saw, in the spots where
+the grass was most luxuriant, the root which I found on the hill at our
+first encampment on the good land. The last point they attained was a
+lofty hill which ran out from a range to the eastward, from which range
+sprang also all the under-features that they had crossed. From this hill
+they had an extensive view to the northward, eastward, and westward. The
+land they saw to the northward is laid down upon my map.
+
+THEIR DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY.
+
+To the eastward they saw nothing but ranges of hills, precisely
+resembling those that we had crossed since entering this mountainous
+district; and to the westward others of the same nature, but gradually
+falling in that direction, whilst on the other hand the land seemed to
+rise gently to the eastward, though they saw no very high hills in an
+easterly direction. To the southward their view was impeded by a very
+high bluff point, distant six or seven miles, and a line of cliffs under
+which they conceived that a river or an opening of the sea may run, but
+if so, it could not be a stream of great magnitude. Their view of the
+base of the cliff was however impeded by the under-features of the hill
+on which they stood. They also noticed, as a very remarkable
+circumstance, that there were no signs of these mountains having been
+visited by the natives. The first part of their route lay over an
+extensive plain, four miles in width, which bore no appearance of the
+great native conflagrations having ever reached it. This was so generally
+the case that, when they halted, they were unable to obtain a sufficiency
+of firewood. They saw a native dog of the regular Australian breed;
+kangaroos were abundant, but these as well as all other game were much
+less wild than any of the party had before observed.
+
+The foregoing summary of the information brought back rests not on the
+report of any one individual but expresses the opinions of the party with
+regard to those points on which they were all agreed; and the only one as
+to which I have any distrust is that of the distance they went, which I
+believe to be overrated; having always found the estimates of every one
+of the party as to the daily distance travelled very erroneous, and
+sometimes more than doubled. This indeed is a mistake well known to be of
+common occurrence, and very difficult to guard against in a new and wild
+country, and when I consider the diminished strength of the men's
+pedestrian powers, and the weights they had to carry, I am disposed to
+calculate that the total direct distance they made did not exceed, if it
+equalled, twelve miles.
+
+WANT OF FIREWOOD.
+
+Their report of want of firewood is singular as, in all other parts which
+we passed over, even upon plains of a similar character though not so
+highly elevated or so difficult of access, we had always found the ground
+thickly covered with trees which had fallen from the effects of the
+native fires.
+
+The only remarkable circumstances about the spot we were encamped in were
+the great coldness of the nights and mornings; and moreover that exactly
+at nine o'clock every morning a cold breeze, in character precisely
+resembling a sea-breeze, set in from the south-east and lasted until
+about half-past three in the afternoon.
+
+RETURN. COMMENCEMENT OF MARCH BACK.
+
+April 4.
+
+We this day started on our march homewards. I was afraid, from the
+appearance of the weather, that we might soon have rain, and, as a
+continuance of it for even three or four days might have prevented our
+passing the rivers for several weeks, it became necessary that this part
+of our march should be accomplished with the utmost celerity. I therefore
+made the first river before I allowed a halt for breakfast. On our route
+we passed the spot where, on the 29th ultimo, we had been compelled to
+kill the horse; the native dogs had already made it a perfect skeleton
+and scattered its bones about.
+
+NATIVE AND HIS DOG.
+
+I committed unintentionally this day what must have appeared to the
+natives a very wanton act of aggression: as we were passing the river, a
+dog, not of the Australian breed, came from a pass in the rocks on the
+opposite side, moving quietly towards us over some flat rocks; when he
+had advanced a few yards from the pass he stopped and looked back, so
+that from his manner I might have known that his master was near, but
+without reflection I fired and struck the ground close to him; he became
+alarmed and ran back in the same line he had come; I now took up my own
+rifle and just as he turned a point in the rocks I fired, and, although a
+very long shot, I struck him far forward in the shoulder. For a moment he
+staggered, then turned round and limped up a glen in the hills in quite a
+different direction. I had neither time nor strength to follow him, but
+on passing the river I found from the tracks that minute made that a
+single native had been coming down to the river with the dog, and had
+(probably from hearing the shots) turned sharp off to the right and made
+his escape into some bushes. This day the weakness of our last sheep
+obliged us to kill it.
+
+CONTINUATION OF ROUTE BACK. CHANGE OF TRACK.
+
+April 5.
+
+I continued on our old track this morning until I had passed the other
+river, and then, quitting our former route, made a push straight over the
+sandstone ridge for our old enemy the marsh, as I felt sure after the
+present long continuance of fine weather that it would be now quite
+passable. We encamped this night on the sandstone range under a group of
+lofty firs, or rather pines.
+
+April 6.
+
+I found a very easy route over the sandstone, quite passable in fine
+weather, but after rains, I think, from the marshy nature of the ground,
+that it would present some difficulty. The marsh itself was perfectly
+passable, could without any difficulty be drained, and consisted of good
+and fertile land. A remarkable circumstance connected with it was the
+great depth of the beds of its streams, the banks in some places being
+fourteen feet above the existing water level, whilst I could observe no
+signs of the water having ever risen to that height. In the afternoon I
+once more struck our old track, which I quitted again in the evening. We
+halted a few hundred yards from two remarkable heaps of stones of the
+same kind as those I have before mentioned.
+
+CURIOUS NATIVE MOUNDS OR TOMBS OF STONES.
+
+April 7.
+
+This morning I started off before dawn and opened the most southern of
+the two mounds of stones which presented the following curious facts:
+
+1. They were both placed due east and west and, as will be seen by the
+annexed plates, with great regularity.
+
+2. They were both exactly of the same length but differed in breadth and
+height.
+
+3. They were not formed altogether of small stones from the rock on which
+they stood, but many were portions of very distant rocks, which must have
+been brought by human labour, for their angles were as sharp as the day
+they were broken off; there were also the remains of many and different
+kinds of seashells in the heap we opened.
+
+My own opinion concerning these heaps of stones had been that they were
+tombs; and this opinion remains unaltered, though we found no bones in
+the mound, only a great deal of fine mould having a damp dank smell. The
+antiquity of the central part of the one we opened appeared to be very
+great, I should say two or three hundred years; but the stones above were
+much more modern, the outer ones having been very recently placed; this
+was also the case with the other heap: can this be regarded by the
+natives as a holy spot?
+
+We explored the heap by making an opening in the side, working on to the
+centre, and thence downwards to the middle, filling up the former opening
+as the men went on; yet five men provided with tools were occupied two
+hours in completing this opening and closing it again, for I left
+everything precisely as I had found it. The stones were of all sizes,
+from one as weighty as a strong man could lift, to the smallest pebble.
+The base of each heap was covered with a rank vegetation, but the top was
+clear, from the stones there having been recently deposited.
+
+PASS IN MOUNTAIN RANGE.
+
+In the afternoon we proceeded on our route, travelling nearly north.
+After marching some distance we traversed at right angles a variety of
+under-features terminating in sandstone cliffs, but the hills on our
+right were composed of the same black rock as the chain in which Mount
+Lyell lies. Private Mustard being ill, I gave him my horse and tried to
+walk, but injured myself materially by so doing. We were obliged to
+encamp at the head of a large mangrove inlet.
+
+April 8.
+
+It being Sunday I halted all the morning and only started late in the
+afternoon. Our route lay through a mountainous country and consequently
+our progress was slow. Quartz was here largely developed in rocks. We
+halted this evening in a valley surrounded by mountains.
+
+PASS MOUNT LYELL.
+
+April 9.
+
+We started at dawn and soon found that the valley we had encamped in was
+the true pass across the range of mountains. It ran in nearly a
+south-west direction to the foot of Mount Lyell. Here I halted for
+breakfast; and, on finding my position by cross bearings, which I was now
+able to do, and comparing it with my position by dead reckoning, was glad
+to find that the error only amounted to 150 yards. The valley we
+travelled up in the morning was fertile, connected with several other
+large ones of similar character, and contained two small lakes, or large
+ponds of water, the least of which was elevated considerably above the
+low ground in the neighbourhood. In the afternoon we crossed the
+mountains by a narrow neck, which is the best pass over this range of
+hills for anyone travelling to the south and east. We crossed our old
+track twice in the afternoon and encamped in the evening under a conical
+hill.
+
+April 10.
+
+Started at dawn, travelling nearly north-west, and crossed the heads of
+all the streams which I had before seen emptying themselves into the
+river Glenelg in the opening lying between Mount Sturt and Mount Eyre.
+Just under the point where we encamped for the night was a large marsh in
+which my horse got bogged and I had a severe fall.
+
+CONTINUATION OF ROUTE.
+
+April 11.
+
+On starting this morning all the party insisted that they saw a hill,
+under which our old track had passed. I felt convinced that such could
+not be the case; and, had it been so, an error of four miles must have
+existed in my map: yet all were so positive of their correctness that I
+felt it would appear like obstinacy in me not to yield to the general
+opinion. I therefore quitted our direct course to make for the foot of
+this hill, and there convinced myself that I was right; yet, even when we
+had now passed it, proceeding on our route, I heard several remark, "We
+shall soon march back here again." But this evening I had the pleasure of
+halting under the sandstone range, and the very hill we had wished to
+gain.
+
+RECOVERY OF BURIED STORES.
+
+April 12.
+
+We marched early, and on the way passed more native tombs; when we came
+to the place where the horse had been left I found that, through
+inadvertence on the part of the man who led him, he had been starved to
+death, having been left tethered. This discovery shocked me much. Some of
+the stores which had been left where he fell and covered with a
+tarpaulinremained uninjured. We proceeded onwards to the camp where I had
+lain so long wounded, and, on arriving found all our provisions in good
+order, the natives apparently not having since visited the spot. We were
+not a little glad to find our preserved meats which had been left buried
+here. Halted for the night, and enjoyed our repast.
+
+PRECAUTIONS ON REACHING HANOVER BAY.
+
+April 13.
+
+After digging up our supply of preserved meats yesterday we had made
+rather more free with them than was prudent in men who had been for so
+long a time compelled to subsist upon very scanty fare, and in
+consequence had been nearly all affected with violent sickness; and, as
+six of the party, including Mr. Lushington and myself, were now ill, we
+did not start very early; the remaining ponies were also so weak that
+they could scarcely carry themselves, and we therefore were only able to
+place very light loads upon them.
+
+I have already described the very difficult nature of the country we had
+to traverse; but the roads we had previously constructed through it
+proved extremely serviceable. So little had they been injured that they
+formed a very fair and passable line of communication. Early in the
+evening we crossed the Lushington and halted at the summit of the cliffs
+which formed its northern bank.
+
+April 14.
+
+I sent the most efficient of the party back with the horses for the
+remaining stores whilst with four men I remained in charge of the tents.
+
+ANXIETY ON APPROACHING HANOVER BAY.
+
+Sunday April 15.
+
+Our anxiety to ascertain if any accident had happened to the schooner now
+became very great: since such a circumstance was of course by no means
+impossible. As our position would then have been very precarious, and our
+only chance of ultimate safety have rested on the most exact discipline
+and cautious rules of conduct being observed from the very first, I
+thought it would be most prudent not to allow such a calamity (had it
+occurred) to burst too suddenly upon the men when they were quite
+unprepared for it.
+
+Two of them were therefore selected and, accompanied by these, I started
+before daylight for the sandy beach in Hanover Bay; leaving the party to
+make the best of their way to the heights above the valley where we had
+first encamped, and where plenty of food and water could be found for the
+ponies; these, in the event of anything having happened to the schooner,
+would become the mainstay of our hopes.
+
+These arrangements having been made we moved off through the rocky
+difficult country we had first encountered: every step we took was over
+well-known ground, in which no change had taken place save that there
+were evident marks of bodies of natives having been in the neighbourhood
+since our departure.
+
+As I proceeded nearly in a direct line to Hanover Bay we encountered some
+difficulty from the broken character of the ground, but about eleven
+o'clock had gained the hilly country at the back of the beach, from
+whence however we could not obtain a view of the spot where the vessel
+lay. On emerging from the mangroves upon the beach we saw painted upon
+the sandstone cliffs, in very large letters, "Beagle Observatory, letters
+south-east 52 paces."
+
+REJOIN THE LYNHER. MEETING WITH THE BEAGLE.
+
+No one who has not been similarly situated can at all conceive the thrill
+which went through me when these letters first met my eye; even had
+anything happened to the schooner, friends were upon the coast, and I
+knew that Captain Wickham, who had passed a great portion of his life in
+adventures of this kind, would leave nothing undone which was in his
+power to ensure our safety. We now hurried across the beach, and on
+gaining the highest part of it saw the little schooner riding safely at
+anchor. A gun being fired all became life and expectation on board the
+vessel; and whilst the boat pulled ashore we searched for our letters.
+These had however not yet been deposited at the spot indicated, and I
+therefore conjectured that we should find them on board.
+
+On reaching the vessel we learnt that the mate was gone to the Beagle,
+now lying in Port George the Fourth but expected to sail this very day.
+It appeared that at 7 o'clock on the morning of the 8th the report of
+four carronades was heard on board the schooner; this was conjectured by
+all to denote the presence of the Beagle on the coast, but the echo ran
+from cliff to cliff with so many reverberations that none could tell from
+what direction the sound had originally proceeded. The silence of the
+night was not again disturbed; and those on board the schooner felt no
+small solicitude to know if their conjectures were correct, and if so in
+what direction the Beagle lay.
+
+ARRIVAL OF THE BEAGLE.
+
+The next morning the mystery was cleared up. Before noon a yawl was seen
+to round the headland and to stand across the bay in the direction of the
+mouth of Prince Regent's River. As soon as the schooner was recognised
+the yawl altered her course, and Captain Wickham was soon on board the
+Lynher, making anxious enquiries for us and ascertaining what steps could
+be taken to assist us and promote our views.
+
+From that time up to the present date the Beagle had lain in Port George
+the Fourth to take in wood, water, etc., and to await the return of Mr.
+Stokes, who was absent exploring the coast between Collier's Bay and Port
+George the Fourth.
+
+As there was no time to lose I at once started in a boat for the Beagle,
+and it was late in the evening when we drew near it. I could see anxious
+groups looking eagerly at the little boat as it drew near, and when at
+length we were recognised the hearty cheers that greeted us as we came up
+alongside plainly showed that the pleasure of meeting was not confined to
+ourselves.
+
+RESULTS OF HER SURVEY.
+
+As Mr. Stokes was hourly expected to return, and I was very anxious to
+know if he had discovered the mouth of the Glenelg, I remained on board
+the Beagle and, as all had much to hear and much to communicate, the
+evening wore rapidly away. The next day Mr. Stokes arrived, having seen
+nothing of the mouth of the river; this however in my apprehension arose
+from the greater portion of the time they were absent having been spent
+in the examination of Collier's Bay, which was the point of by far the
+greatest interest and promise; and that consequently they were compelled,
+from want of time and supplies, to examine the intervening coastline less
+narrowly than its irregular character rendered necessary. What rather
+confirms this opinion is, that Captain King, in his survey of this part,
+states his belief, drawn from observation, that it is indented with
+inlets similar to Prince Regent's River, now this is exactly the
+character of the Glenelg.
+
+Mr. Stokes described Camden Sound as being one of the finest harbours he
+had seen; and, such being the case, it must undoubtedly be the most
+important position on this part of the coast. It lies close to the
+Glenelg and Prince Regent's River, two large navigable streams; and I
+have already declared my opinion that I have never seen a richer tract of
+country than the extensive alluvial and basaltic districts in the
+neighbourhood of the Glenelg, and under the rare circumstance of lying
+between two navigable rivers which are separated from each other by so
+short an interval.
+
+PREPARATIONS FOR REEMBARKING.
+
+Soon after Mr. Stokes's arrival I started for the Lynher, and the next
+morning repaired on shore. During my absence on board the Beagle fourteen
+natives had made their appearance near the encampment on the cliffs above
+the valley; they appeared however to have been solely attracted from
+motives of curiosity and a desire to visit our former huts. From the
+fearful disposition which had hitherto been evinced by the natives of
+these parts it was necessary however that every precaution should be
+observed. This was most carefully done by Mr. Lushington; and as soon as
+the natives saw that they were watched they moved off and were not again
+observed, although the smokes of their fires were visible in several
+points.
+
+On the 17th we commenced our preparations for leaving this part of the
+coast. The stores remaining were all carried on board. We had but eleven
+ponies left, the greater number of which were so marked and scarred from
+falls amongst the rocks that they would have been valueless if brought to
+sale; besides which, to have cut and dried a quantity of grass sufficient
+for them until we reached the Isle of France would, in the burnt up state
+of the country, have delayed us many days, had we even succeeded at last.
+On the other hand, if left free in the bush, two good mares which were
+amongst them might possibly be the means of giving a very valuable race
+of horses to this country. These considerations determined me; and the
+companions of our weary wanderings were turned loose--a new race upon the
+land; and, as we trusted, to become the progenitors of a numerous herd.
+
+STATE OF THE PLANTS AND SEEDS LEFT AT THE ENCAMPMENT.
+
+Our whole residence in this country had been marked by toils and
+sufferings. Heat, wounds, hunger, thirst, and many other things had
+combined to harass us. Under these circumstances it might have been
+imagined that we left these shores without a single regret; but such was
+far from being the case: when the ponies had wandered off, when all the
+remaining stores had been removed, and the only marks of our residence in
+this valley were a few shattered bark huts, young coconut plants, a
+bread-fruit, and some other useful trees and plants, I felt very loth to
+leave the spot. I considered what a blessing to the country these plants
+must eventually prove if they should continue to thrive as they had yet
+done and, as I called to mind how much forethought and care their
+transport to their present position had occasioned, I would very gladly
+have passed a year or two of my life in watching over them and seeing
+them attain to a useful maturity. One large pumpkin plant in particular
+claimed my notice. The tropical warmth and rains, and the virgin soil in
+which it grew, had imparted to it a rich luxuriance: it did not creep
+along the ground, but its long shoots were spreading upwards amongst the
+trees. The young coconuts grew humbly amidst the wild plants and reeds,
+their worth unknown. Most of these plants I had placed in the ground
+myself, and had watched their early progress: now they must be left to
+their fate.
+
+REEMBARKATION.
+
+Amidst such thoughts we resumed our course down the valley and embarked
+in the boats; but had not proceeded far when a dog belonging to one of
+the men was missed and, as we could not abandon so faithful a companion,
+a party returned to search for it, and the dog was brought safely on
+board.
+
+SAIL FOR THE MAURITIUS.
+
+We then weighed and sailed for the Isle of France, where we arrived on
+the 17th May without having met with any circumstance on our voyage
+worthy of record.
+
+
+CHAPTER 11. NATURAL HISTORY. CLIMATE. ABORIGINES.
+
+NATURAL HISTORY.
+
+North-Western Australia seems to be peculiarly prolific in birds,
+reptiles, and insects, who dwell here nearly unmolested, mutually preying
+upon each other, and thus, by a wise provision, setting the necessary
+check to their own multiplication.
+
+DISTRIBUTION OF ANIMALS.
+
+Of quadrupeds there are but few species, and of these the individuals,
+considered in proportion to the surface they roam over, are rare. The
+only species I observed during a residence of five months were four of
+kangaroos, namely the large Macropus giganteus ? of Shaw, two smaller
+kinds, one of which is the Petrogale brachyotis of Gould, and a kangaroo
+rat, which last is always seen amongst the rocks on the sea coast. One
+species of opossum, a flying squirrel (Petaurista) two kinds of dog, of
+which one is new, rats, and a fieldmouse. Of these the kangaroos are
+alone numerous, and only in particular spots.
+
+NEW KANGAROO.
+
+I shot a female kangaroo of the Petrogale brachyotis near Hanover Bay,
+and by the preservation of the skin and other parts enabled Mr. Gould to
+identify it as a new species.
+
+This graceful little animal is excessively wild and shy in its habits,
+frequenting, in the daytime, the highest and most inaccessible rocks, and
+only descending into the valleys to feed early in the morning and late in
+the evening. When disturbed in the daytime amongst the roughest and most
+precipitous rocks, it bounds along from one to the other with the
+greatest apparent facility, and is so watchful and wary in its habits
+that it is by no means easy to get a shot at it. One very surprising
+thing is, how it can support the temperature to which it is exposed in
+the situations it always frequents amongst the burning sandstone rocks,
+the mercury there during the heat of the day being frequently at 136
+degrees. I have never seen these animals in the plains or lowlands, and
+believe that they frequent mountains alone.
+
+NEW DOMESTIC DOG.
+
+The new species of dog differs totally from the Dingo or Canis
+australiensis. I never saw one nearer than from twenty to thirty yards,
+and was unable to procure a specimen. Its colour is the same as that of
+the Australian dog, in parts however having a blackish tinge. The muzzle
+is narrow, long, thin, and tapers much, resembling that of a greyhound,
+whilst in general form it approaches the English lurcher. Some of the
+party who went to Timor stated it to resemble precisely the Malay dog
+common to that island, and considered it to be of the same breed; which I
+think not improbable, as I cannot state that I ever saw one wild, or
+unless in the vicinity of natives; in company with whom they were
+generally observed in a domesticated state. On the other hand the Canis
+australiensis was common in some parts in a state of nature: of these I
+saw several myself and, from the descriptions given by other individuals
+of the party of dogs they had observed, I recognised their identity with
+the same species. We heard them also repeatedly howling during the night
+and, although they never attacked our sheep or goats, many portions of
+dead animals were carried off by them. I saw but two flying squirrels and
+know not to which species of Petaurista they are to be referred.
+
+OTHER ANIMALS.
+
+Both mice and rats are common, the former precisely resembling in
+appearance the English fieldmouse. The rats on one occasion ate up a live
+pet parakeet, leaving the bones gnawed and strewed about; and on another,
+when I had shot a crane (Ardea scolopacea) intending it for breakfast,
+they in the night devoured nearly the whole of it.
+
+CHECKS ON INCREASE OF ANIMALS.
+
+The multiplication of kangaroos, opossums, rats, etc. may be checked by
+various causes; but man, I imagine, is the most deadly enemy they have to
+contend with. The numerous remains of these animals that I have seen
+about the native fires attest the number destroyed. In all those caves in
+which I found native paintings were representations either of kangaroo
+hunts, or of men bringing down these animals dead on their shoulders; and
+many a hollow tree bore witness of its having been smoked in order to
+drive forth to certain death the trembling opossum or bandicoot rat which
+had taken refuge in it.
+
+INFLUENCE OF MAN ON THEIR HABITS.
+
+A convincing proof of the dread in which man is held by the various kinds
+of kangaroos is given by their extreme shyness. I never but on two or
+three occasions got within shot of the larger kangaroos as they were
+always so wary; and, although I at different times wounded two, I never
+could succeed in actually capturing either. Now, when the detached party
+sent forward just before we commenced our return to Hanover Bay crossed a
+range of mountains on which were neither traces of the natives or their
+fires, they found the direct reverse of this to be the case, and were all
+surprised at the tameness of the kangaroos compared with those they had
+previously seen.
+
+In the same way, when I entered a new district, the birds merely flew up
+into a lofty tree without attempting to go farther away, and it was not
+until I had shot for a day or two in the neighbourhood of a place that
+the birds there became at all wild.
+
+The native dog, doubtless being dependent for subsistence upon the game
+he can procure, must contribute to thin the numbers of the lesser
+animals, who also, together perhaps with the rapacious dog himself,
+frequently fall a prey to the various snakes that inhabit the country; as
+was evinced in the event narrated on the 16th of March of the
+destruction, by Mr. Lushington, of the boa with a small kangaroo
+compressed in its folds.
+
+The manner, too, in which I have seen the rapacious birds of prey soar
+over plains where the small kangaroos abound, convinces me that they also
+bear their part in the destruction of this harmless race.
+
+TRACES OF AN ANIMAL WITH A DIVIDED HOOF.
+
+I have already alluded to the paucity of quadrupeds, both in species and
+in number, but I have still to record the remarkable fact of the
+existence in these parts of a large quadruped with a divided hoof: this
+animal I have never seen, but twice came upon its traces. On one occasion
+I followed its track for above a mile and a half, and at last altogether
+lost it in rocky ground. The footmarks exceeded in size those of a
+buffalo, and it was apparently much larger, for, where it had passed
+through brushwood, shrubs of considerable size in its way had been broken
+down and, from the openings there left, I could form some comparative
+estimate of its bulk. These tracks were first seen by a man of the name
+of Mustard, who had joined me at the Cape, and who had there been on the
+frontier during the Kaffir war; he told me that he had seen the spoor of
+a buffalo, imagining that they were here as plentiful as in Africa. I
+conceived at the time that he had made some mistake, and paid no
+attention to him until I afterwards twice saw the same traces myself.
+
+BIRDS.
+
+To describe the birds common to these parts requires more time than to
+detail the names of the few quadrupeds to be found; indeed in no other
+country that I have yet visited do birds so abound. Even the virgin
+forests of South America cannot, in my belief, boast of such numerous
+feathered denizens; yet I cannot, after all, assert that the number of
+genera and species is at all proportionate to that of individual birds.
+The contrary is probably the real case.
+
+BEAUTY OF THE BIRDS.
+
+The birds of this country possess in many instances an excessively
+beautiful plumage; and he alone who has traversed these wild and romantic
+regions, who has beheld a flock of many-coloured parakeets sweeping like
+a moving rainbow through the air whilst the rocks and dells resounded
+with their playful cries, can form any adequate idea of the scenes that
+there burst on the eyes of the wondering naturalist.
+
+The beginning of the month of February, or the end of January, is the
+season in which the birds in these parts pair. In the beginning of March
+I found many nests with eggs in them; and in the end of that month eggs
+nearly hatched were observed in most of the nests, as well as young birds
+occasionally.
+
+RAPACIOUS BIRDS.
+
+Of rapacious birds I saw but four kinds, but these are by no means
+common:
+
+The first species was a very large bird, of a dark colour (Aquila fucosa,
+Cuvier) in size, appearance, and flight closely resembling the golden
+eagle which I have often seen, and have once shot on the north-west coast
+of Ireland. I have approached these birds closely--so closely indeed that
+I have on two occasions shot them, but each time they fell into a thick
+mangrove inlet and I was not fortunate enough to procure either of them;
+they appeared to me always to frequent the shores, for I never saw them
+further inland than a mile from the sea. The large nests Captain King
+mentions as having been found upon the coast I imagine must have belonged
+to this species.
+
+The second species was a sort of hawk (Haliaeetus leucosternus, Gould)
+rather larger than the sparrow-hawk, of a light cinnamon colour, with a
+perfectly white head. They also frequent the shores, but I never shot
+one.
+
+The third species was a Peregrine falcon (Falco melanogenys, Gould) which
+is nearly allied to that of Europe. I was not fortunate enough to procure
+a specimen of this bird.
+
+The fourth was the Athene Boobook. Belly brown and white; wings brown,
+with white spots; third quill-feather, longest; legs feathered, lightish
+brown colour; tail brownish white, marked with transverse bars of a
+darker brown; eye prominent; iris blue. The only difference I could
+observe between the male and female is that the female is rather larger
+than the male, and her colours somewhat lighter. These birds inhabit the
+whole of that part of North-western Australia lying between the Prince
+Regent and Glenelg Rivers, and probably may be distributed over the
+greater portion of the Continent. They feed on insects, reptiles, and
+birds of the smaller kind. I have always found them seated in holes in
+the rocks, or in shady dells, and have never seen them fly in the daytime
+unless compelled by fear; they are very stupid when disturbed, and in
+flight and manner closely resemble the common English owl. I cannot
+however recollect having ever seen one on the wing during the night.
+
+Upon describing the two singular birds mentioned above in Chapter 9 to
+Mr. Gould he informed me that they were most probably of the rare species
+Anas semipalmata.
+
+REMARKABLE NEST.
+
+I have already spoken in the 9th chapter of a very curious sort of nest
+which was frequently found by myself and other individuals of the party,
+not only along the seashore, but in some instances at a distance of six
+or seven miles from it. This nest, which is figured in Illustration 19, I
+once conceived must have belonged to the kangaroo rat I have above
+mentioned, until Mr. Gould, who has lately returned from Australia,
+informed me that it is the run or playing ground of the bird he has named
+Chalmydera nuchalis.
+
+These nests were formed of dead grass, and parts of bushes, sunk a slight
+depth into two parallel furrows, in sandy soil, and then nicely arched
+above. But the most remarkable fact connected with them was that they
+were always full of broken shells, large heaps of which protruded from
+each extremity of the nest. These were invariably seashells. In one
+instance, in the nest most remote from the sea that we discovered, one of
+the men of the party found and brought to me the stone of some fruit
+which had evidently been rolled in the sea; these stones he found lying
+in a heap in the nest, and they are now in my possession.
+
+EMUS.
+
+I have seen no Emus in North-western Australia, but on two occasions
+their tracks were impressed in the mud on some plains lying on the banks
+of Glenelg River; and Mr. Dring, of H.M.S. Beagle, informed me that,
+whilst that vessel was employed in the survey of Fitzroy River, about
+seventy miles to the southward of the former, he not only several times
+saw traces of them but that, on one occasion when he was in the bush, two
+of them passed within a few yards of him. They may, I conceive, therefore
+be considered as inhabitants of this part of the continent.
+
+ALLIGATORS.
+
+No alligators were seen by the land party in any of the rivers of
+North-western Australia, but the crew of the schooner saw one in Hanover
+Bay. I can however safely assert from my own experience that they are by
+no means numerous upon this coast. At the islands of Timor and Roti
+however they abound.
+
+TURTLES.
+
+Turtles were abundant on the coast, and a freshwater tortoise was found
+inland.
+
+PLANTS.
+
+Amongst the vegetable kingdom I shall only observe generally that the
+Calamus, or rattan, which in King's voyage* is considered to be peculiar
+to the primary granitic formation on the east coast, is abundant in the
+interior of the north-west between latitude 15 and 17 degrees south.
+
+(*Footnote. Appendix, volume 2.)
+
+I found a dwarf cabbage-palm between 15 and 16 degrees south latitude,
+always in moist situations in the neighbourhood of streams, although not
+immediately on the banks.
+
+Of the family of Urticeae many species of Ficus were observed.
+
+The Banksia, common to Swan River, and bearing a yellow flower, is to be
+found in many of the valleys on the north-west coast; thus appearing to
+form an exception to Mr. Cunningham's observation inserted in Captain
+King's voyage,* wherein he says:
+
+Viewing the general distribution of Banksia, it is a singular fact in the
+geographical distribution of this genus that its species, which have been
+traced through almost every meridian of the south coast, upon the islands
+in Bass Strait, in Van Diemen's Land, and widely scattered throughout the
+whole extent of New South Wales to the north coast, at which extreme
+Banksia dentata has been observed as far west as longitude 136 degrees
+south, should be wholly wanting on the line of the north-west coast.
+
+(*Footnote. Ibid.)
+
+I observed a great variety of plants of the order Leguminosae.
+
+Of the extraordinary Capparis resembling the African Adansonia I have
+already spoken in Chapter 6.
+
+A species of Callitris (Pine) was common, as was the Pandanus; and the
+Araucaria excelsa was found on the heights, both near the sea coast and
+further inland.
+
+CLIMATE. ITS HEALTHINESS.
+
+I conceive the climate of North-western Australia to be one of the finest
+in the world, and my reasons for thus thinking are grounded upon the
+following circumstances.
+
+PROOFS OF ITS SALUBRITY.
+
+I was resident there from the beginning of the month of December 1837 to
+the middle of the month of April 1838; a period of four months and a
+half: and during the whole of this time the men under my command were
+exposed to great hardships and privations. On one occasion three of us
+slept in the open air without any covering or warm clothes for five
+successive nights, during three of which we had constant showers of heavy
+rain, and yet did not in any way suffer from this exposure.
+
+Other detached parties were on various occasions subjected for a shorter
+period to exposure of a similar nature, and no instance occurred of any
+individual suffering in the least from it. One or two cases of slight
+diarrhoea occurred, but they could be always traced to some food that had
+been eaten the day before, and never were sufficiently violent to delay
+us for a single hour.
+
+Whilst this perfect freedom from disease existed amongst the party they
+had not only to bear exposure of the nature above stated, but the
+provisions with which I was enabled to supply them were sometimes very
+insufficient for their wants. During the whole month of March and part of
+April their daily full allowance of food was about 1 3/4 pounds of flour,
+first made into dough and then baked in the form of a flat cake upon a
+large stone.
+
+This low diet, at the same time that they were compelled to work very
+hard, naturally rendered some of them extremely weak, and several were,
+on our return to the coast, in a very reduced state.
+
+I should here state that we were (perhaps fortunately) unable to carry
+more than one pint of brandy with us, hence no spirits were issued to the
+men, and the non-appearance of diseases of an inflammatory nature may
+perhaps in some measure be attributed to this circumstance.
+
+The opinion of Captain Wickham, R.N. commanding H.M. ship Beagle, is
+perfectly in accordance with my own. He was upon the coast at the same
+time that we were, and in a letter to me writes thus: "Our cruise has
+been altogether a fortunate one, as we have been enabled to examine the
+whole coast from Cape Villaret to this place (Port George the Fourth)
+without any accident, and the climate is so good that we have had no
+sick."
+
+THERMOMETRICAL OBSERVATIONS. RAIN AND TEMPERATURE.
+
+I have annexed a short statement of the weather and range of the
+thermometer during some parts of the months of December, January, and
+February. It will be seen from this that the heat was on some occasions
+great, even as high as to 136 degrees of Fahrenheit in the sun; yet, by
+not exposing ourselves to its influence in the heat of the day more than
+we could help, we suffered no inconvenience from this circumstance:
+indeed in other tropical countries where the heat has not been so great I
+have suffered much more than I did in North-western Australia.
+
+NUMBER OF DAYS IN WHICH RAIN FELL:
+
+December: 6 days.
+January: 19 days, namely, 12, to January 19th, 4 between 19th and 28th, 3
+to end of month.
+February: 7 days.
+March: 12 days.
+To 12th April: 2 days.
+
+In January the greatest quantity of rain fell between the 15th and 30th,
+accompanied by storms of thunder and lightning.
+
+In February the greatest quantity of rain fell in the commencement of the
+month. For several nights in the middle of February we had thunder,
+lightning, and strong gusts of wind, seldom accompanied by rain.
+
+In March the greatest quantity of rain fell from the 17th to the 23rd.
+
+The mean temperature of the different periods of the day for the month of
+December 1838 at Hanover Bay, determined by observations for only six
+successive days from the 26th to the 31st inclusive (thermometer in the
+shade) are as follows:
+
+6 A.M. 82.2.
+9 A.M. 85.3.
+12 m. 91.3.
+3 P.M. 90.2.
+6 P.M. 85.8.
+9 P.M. 83.5.
+
+The same for the month of January 1838, determined by observations made
+from the 1st to the 19th inclusive, was:
+
+6 A.M. 78.2.
+9 A.M. 84.3.
+12 M. 83.1.
+3 P.M. 85.7.
+6 P.M. 80.7.
+9 P.M. 83.4.
+
+I should observe that the mean temperature for 9 P.M. for this month is
+deduced from only seven days observation.
+
+The same as the above for the month of February, taken twelve miles to
+the south of Hanover Bay, from the 19th to the 26th February inclusive,
+is as follows:
+
+6 A.M. 77.0.
+9 A.M. 86.0.
+12 A.M. 92.7.
+3 P.M. 94.0.
+6 P.M. 83.3.
+
+ABORIGINES, THEIR HABITS AND MANNERS.
+
+I was never fortunate enough to succeed in obtaining a friendly interview
+with the natives of these parts; but I have repeatedly seen them closely,
+was twice forced into dispute with them and, in one of these instances,
+into deadly conflict. My knowledge of them is chiefly drawn from what I
+have observed of their haunts, their painted caves, and drawings. I have
+moreover become acquainted with several of their weapons, some of their
+ordinary implements, and I took some pains to study their disposition and
+habits as far as I could.
+
+In their manner of life, their roving habits, their weapons, and mode of
+hunting, they closely resemble the other Australian tribes with which I
+have since become pretty intimately acquainted; whilst in their form and
+appearance there is a striking difference. They are in general very tall
+and robust, and exhibit in their legs and arms a fine full development of
+muscle which is unknown to the southern races.
+
+They wear no clothes, and their bodies are marked by scars and wales.
+They seem to have no regular mode of dressing their hair, this appearing
+to depend entirely on individual taste or caprice.
+
+They appear to live in tribes subject, perhaps, to some individual
+authority; and each tribe has a sort of capital, or headquarters, where
+the women and children remain whilst the men, divided into small parties,
+hunt and shoot in different directions. The largest number we saw
+together amounted to nearly two hundred, women and children included.
+
+THEIR WEAPONS AND IMPLEMENTS.
+
+Their arms consist of stone-headed spears (which they throw with great
+strength and precision) of throwing sticks, boomerangs or kileys, clubs,
+and stone hatchets. The dogs they use in hunting I have already stated to
+be of a kind unknown in other parts of Australia, and they were never
+seen wild by us.
+
+The natives manufacture their water-buckets and weapons very neatly; and
+make from the bark of a tree a light but strong cord. Their huts, of
+which I only saw those on the sea-coast, are constructed in an oval form
+of the boughs of trees, and are roofed with dry reeds. The diameter of
+one which I measured was about fourteen feet at the base.
+
+LANGUAGE.
+
+Their language is soft and melodious, so much so as to lead to the
+inference that it differs very materially, if not radically, from the
+more southern Australian dialects which I have since had an opportunity
+of enquiring into. Their gesticulation is expressive, and their bearing
+manly and noble. They never speared a horse or sheep belonging to us and,
+judging by the degree of industry shown in the execution of some of their
+paintings, the absence of anything offensive in the subjects delineated,
+and the careful finish of some articles of common use, I should infer
+that under proper treatment they might easily be raised very considerably
+in the scale of civilization.
+
+INDIVIDUALS OF AN ALIEN WHITE RACE.
+
+A remarkable circumstance is the presence amongst them of a race, to
+appearance, totally different, and almost white, who seem to exercise no
+small influence over the rest. I am forced to believe that the distrust
+evinced towards strangers arose from these persons, as in both instances,
+when we were attacked, the hostile party was led by one of these
+light-coloured men.
+
+SIMILARITY OF CUSTOMS WITH OTHER AUSTRALIAN TRIBES.
+
+Captain King, who had previously experienced the same feelings of
+ill-will in the natives of Vansittart Bay, attributed them to the
+periodical visits of the Malays during the season of the trepang fishery.
+He says (volume 1 page 320):
+
+On this beach (of Vansittart Bay) we found a broken earthen pot, which
+decidedly proved the fact of the Malays visiting this part of the coast,
+and explained the mischievous disposition of the natives.
+
+...
+
+I saw but three men of this fair race myself, and thought they closely
+resembled Malays; some of my men observed a fourth.
+
+NATIVES AT ROEBUCK BAY.
+
+An individual differing in appearance and colour from his aboriginal
+associates was also seen amongst a native tribe whilst the boats of the
+Beagle were surveying in Roebuck Bay, and is thus ably described by Mr.
+Usberne, the master of the vessel; who was in command of the boat at the
+time he was observed, and who thus narrates the interview:*
+
+(*Footnote. Nautical Magazine for 1840 page 576.)
+
+To prevent interruption during dinner the things were removed to the
+boat, and she was then shoved a few yards off the beach, and we commenced
+our repast.
+
+As we took to the water they (the natives) rose and followed us close;
+but in the act of shoving off, the boat-hook being pointed over the bow,
+they one and all involuntarily stepped back a couple of paces, thinking
+no doubt that it was one of our spears, which to them must have appeared
+a formidable weapon; but, seeing no harm was intended, they remained at
+the water's edge, watching us whilst at dinner.
+
+At this time I had a good opportunity of examining them. They were about
+the middle age, about five feet six inches to five feet nine in height,
+broad shoulders, with large heads and overhanging brows; but it was not
+remarked that any of their teeth were wanting (as we afterwards observed
+in others); their legs were long and very slight, and their only covering
+a bit of grass suspended round the loins. There was an exception in the
+youngest, who appeared of an entirely different race: his skin was a
+copper colour, whilst the others were black; his head was not so large,
+and more rounded; the overhanging brow was lost; the shoulders more of a
+European turn, and the body and legs much better proportioned; in fact he
+might be considered a well-made man at our standard of figure. They were
+each armed with one, and some with two, spears, and pieces of stick about
+eight feet long and pointed at both ends. It was used after the manner of
+the Pacific Islanders, and the throwing-stick so much in use by the
+natives of the south did not appear known to them.
+
+After talking loud, and using very extravagant gestures, without any of
+our party replying, the youngest threw a stone, which fell close to the
+boat.
+
+...
+
+COINCIDENCE OF CUSTOMS.
+
+It appears to me very probable that the same dark-coloured race inhabit
+the whole of Northern Australia, and perhaps extend over the islands in
+Torres Strait.
+
+In order to support this opinion I shall first give an extract from the
+journal of Dr. Duncan, from Wilson's Voyage round the World, page 148,
+which contains a detail of the customs of Flinders Islands and part of
+Northern Australia, and displays two or three remarkable customs
+coinciding with those observed by myself and others to exist in Northwest
+Australia:
+
+At 8 hours 40 minutes P.M. the colonial brig Mary arrived, bringing along
+with her a native of India, whom she picked up on one of Flinders
+Islands.
+
+On the 18th July the Lascar came on board the Success, and from him I
+learned the following particulars: That he belonged to the ship Fame,
+which was wrecked in the Straits; that he and a few others escaped in a
+leaky boat after rowing for forty-eight hours. On landing the natives
+stripped them of their clothes, etc., but otherwise behaved very kindly
+to them. His companions in misfortune died the first year of his
+residence amongst the natives, which in all amounted, he said, to six or
+seven years.
+
+The men in that part of Australia have from five to ten wives, of whom
+they are rather jealous at times. The tribes are continually at war with
+one another, and have regular pitched battles; but the moment that one is
+killed on either side, the battle ceases, until they carry off their
+dead, and mourn for certain days, according to their custom; bedaubing
+themselves over with black earth, and on another day the fight begins and
+ends in a similar way.
+
+...
+
+DISPOSAL OF THEIR DEAD.
+
+This is singularly analogous to what occurred on our encounter with them
+on the 11th February. Dr. Duncan continues:
+
+When one dies or is killed they bury the body in the earth, but at the
+end of five days dig it up again and wrap up the bones, etc., in bark of
+trees, and carry them along with them. When the women fight, which is
+very often, they use a short kind of club. The natives paint their bodies
+over with red clay to prevent the mosquitoes from biting them. When they
+paint their bodies white it is a sign of war with some other tribe.
+
+...
+
+A very remarkable instance of coincidence in this custom with regard to
+the dead will be found in a subjoined extract from a letter sent to me by
+an officer of the Beagle, together with a skeleton which he had found at
+Cygnet Bay. The skeleton has been presented to the Royal College of
+Surgeons:
+
+The skeleton was found enveloped in three pieces of papyrus bark, on a
+small sandy point in Cygnet Bay. All the bones were closely packed
+together, and the head surmounted the whole. It did not appear to have
+been long interred. They had evidently been packed with care. All the
+long bones were undermost, and the small ones were strewed in among them.
+The head was resting on its base, face across.
+
+Three natives were close to the place when we first landed: the eldest of
+the party went up to the spot immediately after I had removed the bones;
+he turned up the bark with his foot, and did not appear to show the
+slightest symptom of uneasiness. They were for some days among the
+watering party on very friendly terms.
+
+...
+
+CAVES. DRAWINGS. TOMBS.
+
+As I never, during my subsequent travels in Australia, saw anything at
+all resembling the painted caves which I have described in the ninth
+chapter, I shall here add some observations on the subject, which I could
+not have there detailed without too great an interruption to the
+narrative.
+
+Two other instances of Australian caves which contain paintings have been
+recorded. The first is by Captain Flinders and the second by Mr.
+Cunningham in King's voyage.
+
+PAINTINGS AT CHASM ISLAND.
+
+The caves found by Flinders were in Chasm Island, in the Gulf of
+Carpentaria, and are thus described:*
+
+In the steep sides of the chasms were deep holes or caverns undermining
+the cliffs; upon the walls of which I found rude drawings, made with
+charcoal, and something like red paint, upon the white ground of the
+rock. These drawings represented porpoises, turtles, kangaroos, and a
+human hand; and Mr. Westall, who went afterwards to see them, found the
+representation of a kangaroo, with a file of thirty-two persons following
+after it. The third person of the band was twice the height of the
+others, and held in his hand something resembling the waddy or wooden
+sword of the natives of Port Jackson.
+
+(*Footnote. Flinders' Voyages volume 2 page 158.)
+
+...
+
+PAINTINGS AT CLACK'S ISLAND.*
+
+(*Footnote. North-east coast of Australia.)
+
+The second instance is taken from Mr. Cunningham's manuscripts and is
+contained in the following extract:*
+
+The south and south-eastern extremes of Clack's Island presented a steep,
+rocky bluff, thinly covered with small trees. I ascended the steep head,
+which rose to an elevation of a hundred and eighty feet above the sea.
+
+The remarkable structure of the geological features of this islet led me
+to examine the south-east part, which was the most exposed to the
+weather, and where the disposition of the strata was of course more
+plainly developed. The base is a coarse, granular, siliceous sandstone,
+in which large pebbles of quartz and jasper are imbedded: this stratum
+continues for sixteen to twenty feet above the water: for the next ten
+feet there is a horizontal stratum of black schistose rock which was of
+so soft a consistence that the weather had excavated several tiers of
+galleries; upon the roof and sides of which some curious drawings were
+observed, which deserve to be particularly described. They were executed
+on a ground of red ochre (rubbed on the black schistus) and were
+delineated by dots of a white argillaceous earth, which had been worked
+up into a paste. They represented tolerable figures of sharks, porpoises,
+turtles, lizards (of which I saw several small ones among the rocks)
+trepang, starfish, clubs, canoes, water gourds, and some quadrupeds,
+which were probably intended to represent kangaroos and dogs. The
+figures, besides being outlined by the dots, were decorated all over with
+the same pigment in dotted transverse belts. Tracing a gallery round to
+windward, it brought me to a commodious cave or recess, overhung by a
+portion of the schistus, sufficiently large to shelter twenty natives
+whose recent fire places appeared on the projecting area of the cave.
+
+Many turtles' heads were placed on the shelves or niches of the
+excavation, amply demonstrative of the luxurious and profuse mode of life
+these outcasts of society had, at a period rather recently, followed. The
+roof and sides of this snug retreat were also entirely covered with the
+uncouth figures I have already described.
+
+As this is the first specimen of Australian taste in the fine arts that
+we have detected in these voyages it became me to make a particular
+observation thereon: Captain Flinders had discovered figures on Chasm
+Island, in the Gulf of Carpentaria, formed with a burnt stick; but this
+performance, exceeding a hundred and fifty figures, which must have
+occupied much time, appears at least to be one step nearer refinement
+than those simply executed with a piece of charred wood. Immediately
+above this schistose is a superincumbent mass of sandstone which appeared
+to form the upper structure of the island.
+
+(*Footnote. King's Australia volume 2 page 25.)
+
+...
+
+PAINTINGS IN THE YORK DISTRICT.
+
+There is a third instance of a cave with a figure in it in the district
+of York, in the settlement of Swan River; but in this case the species of
+circle which is drawn on the cave, or rather scraped into it with a piece
+of stone, may represent anything or nothing; in fact it is no more than
+any idle or thoughtless savage might have executed, without any fixed
+design whatever. The only other vestige of drawing contained in the cave
+is evidently the mere impression of a hand, which has been rubbed over
+with the red paint with which the natives are in the constant habit of
+bedaubing themselves, and has then been pressed in on the wall.
+
+NATIVE TRADITIONS.
+
+I had been told that the natives had some very curious traditions current
+amongst them with regard to this last cave and, after having visited it
+and satisfied myself that there was no analogy between it and the caves
+on the north-west continent of Australia, I set about collecting some of
+the native stories that related to it. These legends nearly all agreed in
+one point, that originally the moon, who was a man, had lived there; but
+beyond this there was nothing common to them all, for every narrator
+indulged his own powers of invention to the greatest possible degree,
+scarcely ever relating the same story twice, but on each occasion
+inventing a new tradition; and the amount of marvels and wonders which he
+unfolded in this revelation were exactly proportioned to the quantity of
+food which I promised to give him. I once or twice charged them with
+attempting to impose upon my credulity and, far from denying the charge,
+they only laughed and said, "that was a very good thing which they told
+me, and that the Djanga (white men) liked it very much."
+
+COLOURS USED IN PAINTING.
+
+In the painted caves on the north-western coasts five colours were used:
+red, several shades; yellow; blue; black, and white. With the exception
+of blue these colours are all known to the natives of the whole
+continent. The red they either dig up from the earth, fit for use, in the
+form of red earthy pebbles, or they find it in the form of a brilliant
+yellow clay, which they beat, clean, and dry, leaving it exposed to the
+air for several days, when they bake it in a bark basket, and then, if
+the clay is good and it has been well prepared and burnt, it is nearly as
+bright as vermilion. In some parts of the continent however no good clay
+can be found; and in this case, at their annual fair, where they meet to
+exchange certain commodities only locally produced, this brilliant red
+ochre is considered a very valuable article of traffic.
+
+Yellow they obtain from several sources: the most common is the yellow
+clay from which the red is afterwards produced, but they also procure it
+from a stone which is traversed by veins of yellow earth; from the
+interior of the nest of a species of ant which collects a yellow dust;
+and from a sort of fungus from which a similar dust is also obtained.
+
+The black is nothing but finely pounded charcoal.
+
+The white is a very fine greasy species of pipe-clay, common all over
+Australia, and which they use either wet or dry.
+
+How the blue colour used in the caves on the north-west was obtained I do
+not know; it is very dark and brilliant, and closely resembles the colour
+obtained from the seed-vessel of a plant very common there, and which, on
+being broken, yields a few drops of a brilliant blue liquid. I therefore
+imagined that it was procured from this source.
+
+AGE AND MOTIVE OF DRAWINGS.
+
+With regard to the age of these paintings we had no clue whatever to
+guide us. It is certain that they may have been very ancient, for,
+although the colours were composed of such perishable materials, they
+were all mixed with a resinous gum, insoluble in water, and, no doubt,
+when thus prepared, they would be capable of resisting, for a long
+period, the usual atmospheric causes of decay. The painting which
+appeared to me to have been the longest executed was the one clothed in
+the long red dress, but I came to this conclusion solely from its state
+of decay and dilapidation, and these may possibly have misled me very
+much; but, whatever may have been the age of these paintings, it is
+scarcely probable that they could have been executed by a self-taught
+savage. Their origin therefore I think must still be open to conjecture.
+
+But the art and skill with which some of the figures are drawn, and the
+great effect which has been produced by such simple means, renders it
+most probable that these paintings must have been executed with the
+intention of exercising an influence upon the fears and superstitious
+feelings of the ignorant and barbarous natives: for such a purpose they
+are indeed well calculated; and I think that an attentive examination of
+the arrangement of the figures we first discovered, more particularly of
+that one over the entrance of the cave, will tend considerably to bear
+out the conclusion I have here advanced.
+
+SINGULARITY REGARDING THEM.
+
+It is a singularity worthy of remark that the drawings we found in the
+vicinity of the coast were nothing but the rudest scratches; that they
+gradually improved until we reached the farthest point we attained from
+the sea; and that it was in the vicinity of this point that some of the
+best productions were found.
+
+
+CHAPTER 12. PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. COMMERCIAL PROSPECTS.
+
+PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. MOUNTAIN RANGES.
+
+The most remarkable geographical feature in North-Western Australia is a
+high range of mountains running north-north-east and south-south-west,
+named by me Stephen's Range after James Stephen, Esquire, Under-Secretary
+of State for the Colonies. From this primary range several branches are
+thrown off: 1. One between Roe's River on the north and Prince Regent's
+River on the south. 2. Macdonald's Range that throws off streams to
+Prince Regent's River on the north and to Glenelg River on the south. 3.
+Whateley's Range which gives forth streams to Glenelg River on the north,
+and to the low country behind Collier's Bay and Dampier's Land on the
+south.
+
+These branch ranges as well as the principal one are all composed of
+ancient sandstone, deposited in nearly horizontal strata, or of basaltic
+rocks which are only visible in certain places, and are most fully
+developed in that part of Stephen's Range which lies behind Collier's
+Bay, and in the low ground near Glenelg River.
+
+With the extent of Stephen's Range I am unacquainted; but I have no doubt
+that the high land whence the Fitzroy River takes its rise is merely an
+under-feature again thrown off from it, and which I propose to call
+Wickham's Range after Captain Wickham, R.N., the discoverer of the
+Fitzroy.
+
+We may form some idea of the limits of Stephen's Range in a north and
+east direction from the following passage extracted from Captain King's
+survey of these coasts:*
+
+Lacrosse Island is situated in the entrance of a deep opening trending to
+the south-south-west towards some steep, rugged hills. The character of
+the country is here entirely changed. Irregular ranges of detached rocky
+hills of sandstone formation, very slightly clothed with small shrubs and
+rising abruptly from extensive plains of low, level land, seem to have
+superseded the low wooded coasts that almost uninterruptedly prevails
+between this and Cape Wessel, a distance of more than six hundred miles!
+
+(*Footnote. King's Australia volume 1 page 291.)
+
+...
+
+It appears therefore that this main range contains within it the sources
+of Roe's River, Prince Regent's and Glenelg Rivers, most probably the
+Fitzroy, and those that run into Cambridge Gulf and perhaps others that
+have their embouchures between this last and Admiralty Gulf.
+
+From an accident having occurred to the only barometer we could carry
+with us I am unable to state the elevation of the highest land we reached
+above the level of the sea; but the appearance of the country on the
+coast does not give the impression of any very elevated ground existing
+near it. This however is owing to the great height of the shore cliffs
+and the gradual rise of the land towards the interior. The following
+observations, made with the barometer before it was broken, will show
+however that the altitude of the country at no great distance from the
+coast is considerable.
+
+MACDONALD'S RANGE.
+
+Our first encampment was on the banks of a small river at a spot 2,640
+feet from the sea. This river ran through a deep and narrow valley,
+descending with a nearly regular slope from a tableland of sandstone, in
+which it took its rise about seven miles inland. At this encampment the
+height of the bed of the river above the level of the sea was 188.76
+feet, as found by the mean of several very accordant observations, which,
+at the same average slope, gives an elevation of about 377 feet for the
+height of a spot on its banks distant only one mile from the sea; and if
+we conceive the average increase of elevation to the sandstone tableland
+to be only 200 feet in every mile (and I believe it to have been more) we
+shall have 1400 feet for the elevation of the tableland which formed one
+of the highest parts of Macdonald's Range.
+
+ELEVATION OF HILLS.
+
+After passing across this range we again descended rapidly into the low
+country, the face of which is much broken by conical hills composed of
+basalt. The heights of some of these hills above their base, which had a
+considerable elevation above the sea level, were in three instances as
+follows:
+
+February 28.
+
+The measured height of a hill above its base was 331 feet.
+
+March 4.
+
+Measured the altitude of a hill above its base and found it to be 222
+feet.
+
+March 8.
+
+Measured the altitude of a hill above its base and found it to be 229.5
+feet.
+
+None of these hills had apparently near so great an elevation as the
+sandstone range of which they were under-features. At this period our
+barometer was unfortunately broken. We now proceeded up the banks of the
+Glenelg and arrived at many hills and conical peaks, apparently much
+higher than those I had measured; yet on afterwards passing the river and
+attaining the summit of the opposite sandstone range, we looked down upon
+them as hills of far inferior elevation to those on which we stood. From
+this circumstance, and from the very perceptible change of temperature we
+experienced, I should think the altitude of the farthest point of
+Stephen's Range which we reached must have been 2,500 or 3,000 feet above
+the sea.
+
+CHARACTER OF THE RIVERS.
+
+The rivers in North-western Australia much resemble in character those of
+the south-eastern parts of the continent. They rise at no very great
+distance from the sea. Near their sources they are mountain torrents, but
+in the lowlands they become generally streams with slow currents, winding
+through fertile and extensive valleys or plains which are liable to
+sudden and terrific inundations, caused, I conceive, by the rain which
+falls in that part of the mountains where the rivers take their rise; for
+at one period, when we had our encampment on the bank of the small stream
+near the sea at Hanover Bay, I was myself distant about fourteen miles in
+the interior in the direction of its source, where we had heavy rain; and
+on my return I found that the party at the station had been surprised by
+a sudden rising of the water for which there was no apparent cause as
+there had been no rain where they were.
+
+The Glenelg River, in like manner, is subject to sweeping inundations,
+rising sometimes to the height of fourteen to fifteen feet above its
+usual level, as was evinced by the weeds and other substances we saw in
+the trees on its banks.
+
+To show that these are characteristics of the Fitzroy River I shall quote
+the authority of Captain Wickham from a letter addressed to me just
+before our meeting at Hanover Bay:
+
+It (the Fitzroy) appears to be very similar to the rivers on the
+south-east side of New Holland, subject to dreadful inundations, caused
+by heavy floods in the interior, and in no way connected with the rainy
+season on the coast. Our visit to it being in February and March,
+immediately after the rainy season on the coast, without our seeing any
+indication of a recent flooding, although there were large trunks of
+trees and quantities of grass and weeds lying on the bank and suspended
+from the branches of trees from ten to twelve feet above the level of the
+river. The bed is entirely of sand.
+
+...
+
+INUNDATIONS.
+
+It will be clearly seen how nearly this corresponds with what we observed
+about the same season on the banks of the Glenelg. I have therefore
+little doubt that the Fitzroy takes its origin from the same mountain
+chain, and that the inundations described by Captain Wickham originate in
+the causes which I have here assigned.
+
+To demonstrate more clearly the similarity of character of these rivers
+with those of New South Wales I shall quote two passages from the British
+Colonies of Mr. Montgomery Martin, regarding the Hawkesbury and Hunter
+Rivers of that colony:
+
+The Hawkesbury, which is a continuation of the Nepean River, after the
+junction of the latter with a considerable stream, called the Grose,
+issues from a remarkable cleft in the Blue Mountains in the vicinity of
+the beautiful town of Richmond, about forty miles from Sydney. Along the
+base of these mountains the Hawkesbury flows in a northerly direction,
+fed by numerous tributary mountain torrents, descending from narrow
+gorges, which, after heavy rains, cause the Hawkesbury to rise and
+overflow its banks as it approaches the sea. In one instance it rose near
+the town of Windsor ninety-seven feet above its ordinary level. Volume 4
+page 257.
+
+Again he says, page 258:
+
+Hunter's River, about seventy miles to the northward of Port Jackson,
+disembogues into the sea at the harbour of Newcastle.
+
+There are three branches to the Hunter, called the upper, the lower, and
+the middle: the two former are navigable for boats for about 120 miles,
+and the latter for about 200 miles; but the branches are all subject to
+sudden and terrific inundations owing to the rapid descent of torrents
+from the Blue Mountains.
+
+...
+
+MOUTH OF THE GLENELG.
+
+In concluding my remarks on the rivers of the north-west I should state
+that Mr. Stokes, the surveyor of the Beagle, after a careful examination
+of the coast did not succeed in finding the mouth of the Glenelg; and he
+imagines that it has several openings, consisting of large mangrove
+creeks, which fall into Stokes Bay; whilst it is my impression that it
+will be found to run out somewhere between Camden Sound and Collier's
+Bay, and that by some accidental circumstance its mouth was missed. That
+it joins the sea in a considerable body I should infer from a shoal of
+porpoises having been seen high up the river, and from the rise and fall
+of tide, which was twenty feet at the direct distance of thirty miles
+from the coast.
+
+VALLEYS.
+
+The valleys in this country are of two kinds: those which are almost
+ravines, bordered on each side by nearly inaccessible cliffs; and valleys
+of great width, bordered by fertile plains, often extensive, and which
+occur where the basaltic rocks are developed; although ravines of this
+formation are also of frequent occurrence in the mountainous parts.
+
+CHARACTER OF THE VALLEYS. SOIL.
+
+The soil found in the valleys of the former kind is extremely rich, but
+they are all subject to very heavy inundations. As an example of this
+kind of valley I may cite the one in which we first encamped. Its mean
+width was only 147 feet, and the rocky precipitous cliffs at half a mile
+from the sea rose above their base 138 feet. These deep valleys
+undoubtedly afford water at all seasons of the year.
+
+The sandstone formation is intersected in all directions by valleys of
+this kind, which are seldom more than from two to three miles apart,
+while the top of the range between them is a tableland, divided by
+lateral valleys and gently rising towards the interior. Seawards they all
+terminate in saltwater creeks, having the same narrow, rocky, and
+precipitous character as they present themselves.
+
+These tablelands afford good timber, particularly pine. Sheep thrive upon
+the food there produced, but we found goats did not answer so well.
+
+The richest land in this part of the country is found in the valleys of
+the second class. The streams flowing through these valleys have
+generally almost imperceptible currents and often form wide reaches. The
+land upon their margins is thinly wooded; and I have often seen exposed
+fine vegetable mould of ten or twelve feet in thickness, through which
+these streams had worn their way. Good examples of this kind of valley
+are those through which run the Fitzroy and Glenelg rivers.
+
+The northern banks of Prince Regent's River I conceive to offer no
+inducement whatever for the formation of a settlement, the whole of the
+country in that direction, as far as I have seen, consisting entirely of
+sandstone ridges. These ridges are continually intersected by valleys, or
+rather ravines of great fertility, but they are so narrow, and the good
+land contained in them is so very limited in extent, that from the first
+moment of the establishment of a colony here the individuals composing it
+must necessarily be scattered over a large space of country. They would
+thus be separated from one another by considerable intervals, which
+separation would not only render them more liable to disagreements with
+the natives, but would for many other reasons be highly detrimental to
+the interests of an infant colony.
+
+The same objection holds good with regard to the south bank of this
+river, as far as the longitude of 125 degrees 3 minutes east, and even
+after passing this point the land immediately bordering the river is of
+the same sterile character; however a creek which trends nearly south
+runs up from thence into one of the most fertile countries I have ever
+seen.
+
+HARBOURS.
+
+The coastline to the south of Prince Regent's River is indented, as shown
+upon Captain King's chart, by numerous deep bays, many of which afford
+excellent anchorage; indeed I believe that there is no other part of the
+world in which an example occurs of three such fine harbours as Port
+George the Fourth, Hanover Bay, and Camden Sound, lying so close to one
+another.
+
+These harbours alone render this a point of considerable consequence to
+Great Britain; but when viewed in connexion with the fine tract of
+country lying behind them its importance is very materially increased.
+
+COMMERCIAL ADVANTAGES.
+
+Should this part of Australia be found eligible for colonization its
+commercial importance is well worthy of consideration.
+
+PRODUCTIONS SUITED FOR CULTIVATION. COTTON TRADE.
+
+The cultivated productions for the growth of which the country and
+climate seem best adapted are cotton, sugar, indigo, and rice.
+
+A species of cotton plant grows wild in the greatest abundance, and if a
+colony was established and the proper cotton-plant introduced the
+following advantages would be obtained:
+
+Great Britain would possess in Northern Australia a colony standing in
+the same relation to her manufacturies for cotton that her colonies in
+the south do to her wool-market.
+
+This colony would also form a sort of entrepot to which the manufactured
+cotton would again be exported for the purpose of sale in the islands of
+the Indian Archipelago or its vicinity, and other parts where we have at
+present no trade, and where printed cottons now are, and from the nature
+of these countries must constantly be, in great demand.
+
+Thus a fresh supply of cotton for our markets would be obtained, which,
+coming from an English colony, would give employment to British vessels
+alone, and the industry of our manufacturers would be called into
+operation by an entirely new market for cotton goods being thrown open to
+them, in which the demand for these articles is far greater than the
+supply could be for many years.
+
+ARTICLES OF EXPORT.
+
+The natural productions that are at present found in North-west Australia
+and might be available for exportation consist chiefly of timber, gum,
+lichens, and mimosa bark; all of which are abundant, and might be
+collected with a trifling degree of labour.
+
+There are many varieties of useful timber. Among others, pine, fit for
+the purposes either of building or making spars for vessels, is abundant
+and good, and could be readily and cheaply exported if they were cut in
+the vicinity of the streams and floated down to the sea in the rainy
+season, whereby all land carriage would be avoided.
+
+I sent to England specimens of five different gums in order that they
+might be examined. These consist of an elastic gum, closely resembling
+Indian rubber, gum tragacynth, another gum yielded by a sort of capparis
+and which I believe to be hitherto unknown, and two kinds of gum resin.
+
+The mosses are of various kinds, many of which would afford useful dyes;
+and these, together with the gums, would probably be found valuable
+articles of export; for the collecting of them is a species of labour in
+which the native tribes would more willingly engage than any other I am
+acquainted with.
+
+Immediately off North-West Cape is good whaling ground. The schooner
+employed on the expedition fell in with two vessels--the Favourite,
+Captain White, and the Diana, Captain Hamott, whalers belonging to
+Messrs. Bennett & Co., of London, and then fishing between North-West
+Cape and the position usually assigned to the Tryal Rocks. Both these
+vessels had been very successful.
+
+COMMERCIAL PROSPECTS. TRADE WITH THE ASIATIC ARCHIPELAGO.
+
+With regard to the commerce that might be carried on by Northern
+Australia with the islands of the Indian Archipelago I have made many
+enquiries, and have gained from the most authentic sources some important
+facts.
+
+The points upon which I first endeavoured to obtain information were:
+
+1. What desire was evinced by the inhabitants of the islands of the
+Indian Archipelago and the China Sea to become possessed of articles of
+British manufacture; and,
+
+2. If they were able to pay a fair price, either in money, or by giving
+goods for which there would be a demand in European markets, in exchange
+for such articles of British manufacture as might be introduced amongst
+them.
+
+Upon both of these points I received very satisfactory information. In
+some instances most respectable merchants detailed to me the result of
+speculations of this kind in which they had been engaged; in others
+mercantile letters were placed in my hands, fully corroborating what had
+been told me; but the information I thus obtained bore reference also to
+the following points:
+
+1. The degree of labour necessarily required to transport articles of
+British manufacture to such a distant mart as the one here contemplated
+for their consumption.
+
+2. The length of time during which wages must be paid to and food
+provided for the individuals engaged in this labour.
+
+3. The duties to which the articles will become liable in the various
+ports; and,
+
+4. The danger of loss or injury that may be incurred in their transport
+thither.
+
+With regard to the two first of the above heads it appears that the
+profit that may be realized by the trader is so considerable as not only
+to cover the expenses that they would necessarily entail upon him; but
+after these expenses have been defrayed the residue of profit that would
+remain in his hands would be so large as to render this commerce one of
+the most lucrative in which capital could be embarked.
+
+METHOD OF BARTER.
+
+This will be readily conceived when it is considered that the mode of
+barter is that which is most usual amongst the inhabitants, and that the
+trader puts his own valuation upon the articles he exchanges with them.
+One of the oldest and most respectable merchants at the Cape made a
+voyage through these islands for the purpose of procuring gold dust, and
+he detailed to me the mode in which he conducted the traffic. A Spanish
+doubloon was placed in one of the scales, and gold dust in the other;
+when the quantity of gold dust was equal in weight to the doubloon, he
+gave a doubloon's worth of goods they required, at his own valuation; the
+profit realized was large.
+
+One great drawback to this commerce at present is the necessity of
+coasting from place to place in order to obtain a full cargo. The same
+inconvenience was felt along the coasts of Africa and Madagascar until
+some enterprising London and Liverpool mercantile houses established the
+system of receiving vessels, which remained stationary at one point
+whilst smaller vessels collected cargoes for them. Now a colony in some
+northern part of Australia would in the same manner totally obviate this
+inconvenience by affording a place in which cargoes could be collected
+from small vessels, and to which the British manufactures to be exchanged
+could be brought. Kupang in Timor at the present moment is used for this
+purpose by the Dutch.
+
+DUTIES LEVIED AT THE ISLANDS.
+
+With regard to the third point I find that at the native ports, in
+general, no duty is required; but where there is a Rajah it is politic to
+make him a present in goods. The duties levied by the Portuguese at Dili
+in the month of June 1838 was 10 per cent. With regard to the duties
+levied by the Dutch on British merchant vessels I know but little; but
+the duty demanded at Kupang and Roti on each horse exported, or each
+musket imported, was six rupees, being almost equal to their original
+value. Arms or ammunition are no longer contraband either in the Dutch or
+Portuguese possessions.
+
+In considering the danger of loss or injury that may be incurred in the
+transport of merchandise to these parts it is unnecessary to compute the
+ordinary dangers to which the merchant is more or less liable in all
+quarters of the world; but two distinct drawbacks to commercial
+enterprise at present exist in these countries, which are peculiar to
+them, these are the prevalence of piracy, and the constant occurrence of
+political commotions in the native states. The establishment of a
+settlement on the north or north-west coast of New Holland would have
+however the effect of diminishing both these evils in so great a degree
+that a very few years would probably suffice for their complete
+annihilation.
+
+SUCCESS OF AMERICAN VESSELS. CAUSES OF IT.
+
+Notwithstanding the drawbacks occasioned to commercial enterprise by the
+circumstances above detailed, there at this moment exists a very
+considerable trade in the Indian Archipelago, which is, with the
+exception of the few vessels that sometimes bring ponies to the Isle of
+France and the British settlements, almost wholly in the hands of the
+Americans. Indeed no fact which I have met with has so much surprised me
+as the extraordinary diffusion of the American commerce, and the great
+spirit of enterprise exhibited by them. For in many places where the
+British merchants can find no commerce apparently worth their attention
+the Americans carry on a lucrative and prosperous trade, and in
+half-civilized countries, where the largest profits are always realized,
+the Americans are so eminently successful that the British merchant
+cannot attempt to compete with them.
+
+This appears to arise from the following circumstance. The masters of the
+American vessels engaged in this kind of trade are, in many instances,
+whole, and in all other instances, part owners of the vessel and cargo;
+whereas masters of English vessels have frequently little or no interest
+in the vessel and cargo, and are moreover frequently tied down by
+directions issued from the firm for which they act.
+
+The difference between these two cases is very great; the American can
+turn every circumstance that occurs to account: he can instantly enter
+into any speculation that holds out a prospect of success; and can act
+with rapidity and decision on his own responsibility. The English master,
+on the contrary, has usually a certain prescribed line of duty to fulfil,
+from which he cannot vary.
+
+Hence it is that we often see the American whalers with arms, ammunition,
+and other articles for barter on board. They whale off Madagascar, and,
+whenever an opportunity offers, carry on a lucrative trade with the
+natives. From thence their course is directed to St. Paul's and
+Amsterdam, and afterwards along the coast of New Holland; and when it
+again becomes necessary for them to refresh they touch at some island in
+the Archipelago, and the scene of barter is once more renewed. Their
+cargo eventually consists of sperm oil, gum copal and other gums, ebony,
+tortoiseshell, gold dust, seal-skins, shells, and curiosities; yet they
+originally started upon a whaling voyage.
+
+INSTANCES.
+
+During the years 1824 and 1825, when the port of Mombas upon the East
+Coast of Africa was temporarily ceded to the British Government,
+Lieutenant Emery, R.N., who was stationed there as commander, was witness
+to a curious instance of this nature.
+
+Whilst this port was in the possession of the English but one British
+merchant vessel arrived there, yet three American vessels entered the
+harbour. The master of the English vessel was not a part owner; the
+American masters were all part owners and carried on a very lucrative
+trade, shipping a large quantity of ivory, whereas the English master was
+placed in a very unpleasant position, for, owing to the orders he had
+received from his owners (Messrs Tobin and Co. of Liverpool) he had not
+been able to ship a cargo suited to the market of Mombas, and if
+Lieutenant Emery had not kindly cashed a bill for him the speculation
+would have been a total failure.
+
+The cargo these American vessels brought to Mombas was principally
+muskets and ammunition, which they bartered with the natives for ivory;
+and this is the cargo they always ship for trade with the inhabitants of
+the Indian Archipelago, and, as muskets and ammunition are there of great
+value, the profit they realize is enormous.
+
+As an instance of the kind of persons these American masters often are I
+may state the following circumstance.
+
+Captain Wickham, R.N., was at Valparaiso in South America in the year
+1836, where he met a purser in the American navy who had realized about
+3000 pounds sterling; this person here quitted the American service and
+laid out his capital in the purchase of a small vessel in which, having
+embarked a cargo suited to the trade of the country, he started for the
+coast of California; in a short period he returned to Valparaiso, having
+in this single trip more than doubled his capital; this Captain Wickham
+also stated was by no means a rare instance.
+
+TRADING PRODUCTS OF THE SEVERAL ISLANDS.
+
+Having bestowed some attention on the state of trade in the Indian
+Archipelago, and collected considerable information from various
+individuals who had been engaged in it, I shall here subjoin a summary of
+such of the principal facts as I think may be depended on.
+
+TRADE WITH TIMOR.
+
+In all the ports of the natives, as well as those under the Dutch and
+Portuguese authorities, the produce is much the same. It consists chiefly
+of goats, pigs, poultry, maize, paddy, yams, plantains, fruit,
+sandalwood, beeswax, and tortoiseshell in small quantities.
+
+At Dili duties of 10 per cent are exacted and produce is rather dear.
+Sandalwood is to be had at from 2 to 4 dollars the picul of 125 catties;
+wax is generally from 30 to 35 dollars (Spanish) the picul of 110
+catties.
+
+The ports of Timor furnish a little gold dust at times. Good water and
+firewood are to be had at most of them; that of Dili is a good and safe
+one.
+
+Gold dust, I understand, is also procurable at Sandalwood Island and New
+Hebrides.
+
+For vessels the good season on the coast is from about the 10th of April
+to the 15th of October.
+
+Cootababa affords horses and all the produce of the other places. No
+duties are levied here, the place not being subject to the Portuguese. It
+is a small port and should be entered with caution.
+
+The best ports of Timor for wax are Dili, Cootababa, Ocussi, Sitranny,
+Nilow, and Manatronto. It is gathered in June, cleaned in July, and sold
+principally in that and the two following months; but a vessel should be
+active, as enterprising people go along the coast and buy it up for the
+Kupang merchants, who send it to Batavia where it is said to sell for 120
+rupees the picul; the price at Cootababa, being lately about 80 rupees at
+2 1/2 to the Spanish dollar.
+
+Sandalwood can be had from March to October, the usual trading season;
+but from March to May is the best time as vessels from Kupang and Macao
+are on the coast early, buying it up in time to return to Macao and China
+in the favourable monsoon. The best ports for sandalwood are, Cootababa,
+Ocussi, and Sitranny, but it is to be had most abundantly at Ata-poopa.
+
+ARTICLES IN REQUEST.
+
+Spanish dollars, muskets, and gunpowder are the essentials for procuring
+wax or sandalwood, but if you wish to have a greater assortment, small
+quantities may be added of any articles from the following list.
+
+Doubloons (Spanish).
+Sovereigns (English).
+blue cloth of Pondicherry of good quality.
+ditto English (if cheap) of dark colour for officers.
+white shirting or good calico for men and women.
+handkerchiefs of colours and sorts.
+white cotton stockings.
+men and women's gown pieces of sorts and colours.
+silk stockings, plain and ribbed.
+shoes for men and women.
+brandy, rum, gin, lead and flints.
+quart-glass decanters, cruet stands, dress swords, wine glasses and
+rummers, knives and forks, razors, needles, scissors, earrings,
+bracelets, shawls of sorts, mock jewellery, sugar, soap, biscuits.
+
+Bally and Surabaya are good places for rice, but more especially the
+former, as it is to be had cheap, especially if bartered for opium. The
+rice can be carried to Macao where a good price can always be obtained
+for it.
+
+Puloo, Batao, and Ocussi on the coast of Timor are good places for
+obtaining tortoiseshell at all times, as well as the islands in front of
+Timor, from October to December. The price is about 800 Spanish dollars
+per picul in cash; but in exchange for blue or white cloth, powder, arms,
+flint, etc., it would be obtained for much less.
+
+Roti and Bally are both good places for ponies in exchange for cash or
+goods.
+
+The following is an account of our purchase and barter at the island of
+Roti in January 1838:
+
+10 horses for 10 muskets (old).
+4 horses for 2 fowling-pieces (old).
+9 horses for 27 1/2 rupees each.
+3 mares for 22 rupees each.
+8 sheep for an old regimental breastplate.
+14 goats for a pair of pistols (old).
+The duty on each horse was six rupees.
+
+In Mr. Earle's translation of the account of the voyage of the Dutch
+colonial brig Dourga, which, it is stated, left Amboyna May 26th 1825 and
+visited the islands of Kissa, Lettee, Mon, Damma, Lakor, and Luan,* it is
+said, in speaking of them:
+
+The clothing of those who cannot obtain European or Indian cotton cloth
+is pieces of prepared bark fastened round their waists.
+
+The productions of these islands are sandalwood, beeswax, pearls,
+tortoiseshell, trepang, edible birds' nests, Indian corn, rice,
+vegetables, with abundance of livestock. As the use of money is scarcely
+known these are only to be obtained by barter in exchange for cotton
+cloths, brass wire, iron chopping knives, and coarse cutlery. The first
+article, cotton cloth, is most in demand and M. Kolff suggests that a
+European merchant might carry on an advantageous trade here. The value of
+an ox is from 8 shillings and 4 pence to 10 shillings; of a sheep from 3
+shillings and 4 pence to 5 shillings. Beeswax can be obtained in
+abundance at Roma at the rate of 2 pounds 7 shillings per hundredweight.
+The trade with the islands is carried on solely by natives, those of
+Macassar, Amboyna, and the Arru Islands being the chief purchasers; and
+Chinese brigs from Java occasionally visit Kissa.
+
+(*Footnote. The Serwatty Islands to the east of Timor see the map of the
+Asiatic Archipelago by Mr. John Arrowsmith.)
+
+...
+
+Geby, an island in the Gellola passage, has a fine harbour; a large
+quantity of tortoiseshell can be obtained there for trade with the
+natives. The Asia's Islands, lying a short distance to the northward, are
+not inhabited but abound in turtle.
+
+TRADE WITH THE ISLANDS OF THE ASIATIC ARCHIPELAGO.
+
+The following points of information concerning the Indian Archipelago
+were furnished by Captain Brodie, formerly in command of a Dutch vessel
+of 326 tons:
+
+In case of a necessity for repairing or coppering a vessel Surabaya is
+the best place as it can be done well and cheap. Wood for ship-building
+is abundant; and good carpenters can be had at the rate of 20 copper
+doits per diem, that is to say, three men for a rupee a day.
+
+The Malaccas are under Dutch government, of which Ternate forms a part.
+It is said to be a good place to dispose of odds and ends,* and for
+getting a little shell. It is also a good place for refreshments.
+
+Banda is not so good a place to go to, if another is at hand, as it is
+for a merchant vessel a strictly prohibited port. In fact the Spice
+islands, or Malaccas, can be entered for water and refreshments.
+
+At Timor (Kupang) you can get sandalwood, wax, and a little shell, but
+dear.
+
+At the north-east end of Celebes there are two other places, Monado and
+Keema, where the best gormootip or black coir rope can be obtained at
+about 7 rupees per picul. These two places are under the Dutch
+government. Some little business might be done there: stock in particular
+is cheap.
+
+At the island of Ceram the inhabitants are said to be favourable to the
+English, but Dutch vessels of war cruise often about there, and are very
+jealous.
+
+Bouton, a small island with a Rajah under Dutch protection, situate at
+the south-east end of Celebes, and off the bay of Boni, is a place where
+prows assemble and get vast quantities of shells and beche-de-mer. Nearly
+all these prows proceed with their cargoes to Singapore for a Chinese
+market.
+
+Fine cattle are to be had at about four dollars a head at the town of
+Bally, in the Straits of Allass, between Lombok and Sumbawa.
+
+New Guinea produces good beeswax, pearls, tortoise-shell, trepang,
+birds-of-paradise, etc.
+
+(*Footnote. Another authority says: Tidore near Ternate is a good
+friendly place. Articles for trade are looking-glasses of a better kind,
+knives and forks, beads, watches, printed calicos, blue Pondicherry
+cloth, Salimpores, arms, powder, flints, lead or shot, razors, scissors,
+handkerchiefs; in return for which you may get pearls, pearl-shell,
+tortoiseshell, birds-of-paradise, nutmegs, etc.)
+
+...
+
+FIELD FOR ENTERPRISE.
+
+I shall conclude this subject with some remarks of Mr. John Sullivan.
+R.N., a gentleman who possesses a vast fund of information regarding the
+Indian Archipelago, and to whom I am indebted for many details regarding
+its commerce. He says:
+
+To suppose that the almost countless islands in the ocean before-named
+(the Pacific) do not give many valuable articles, and particularly
+tortoiseshell and pearl, would be no less an error than to doubt the
+existence of the islands altogether.
+
+No, the case is otherwise; and it is needless to say that in the quarter
+alluded to there are already a few American merchants, who have
+discovered by their China, whaling, and sealing voyages many sources of
+wealth, and who are at this moment reaping rich rewards for their toil,
+while 999 out of every thousand of the European world know nothing at all
+about it. Nevertheless there is yet a vast field open to the speculator,
+which must ever promise ample recompense for his confidence and outlay.
+
+
+CHAPTER 13. AT SWAN RIVER.
+
+PLAN FOR RETURNING TO THE NORTH-WEST COAST. WHY ABANDONED.
+
+On arriving at the Mauritius I found that my stay would be unavoidably
+protracted from the state of my wound, which the want of rest and
+attention had prevented from healing during the expedition, whilst my men
+were still suffering under the effects of the hardships and privations
+they had recently been subjected to; my first step therefore was to
+discharge the Lynher, and the next to consider a plan for future
+operations.
+
+The rivers Fitzroy and Glenelg, simultaneously discovered by Captain
+Wickham and myself, although of considerable magnitude, were only
+sufficient to account for the drainage of a small portion of the vast
+continent of Australia, and this interesting question, far from being
+placed in a clearer point of view by our expeditions, was if possible
+involved in deeper obscurity than ever. I was therefore anxious to return
+to the north-west coast and solve the mystery that still hung over those
+regions; but, after considering various plans and suggestions, in which I
+was kindly assisted by the advice and opinions of Sir William Nicolay,
+then Governor of the Mauritius, I was induced to forego the intention of
+proceeding again direct to the north-west, and to bend my course in the
+first instance to Swan River. There I could consult Sir James Stirling,
+the Governor, who had been instructed on our departure from England to
+afford us every assistance; and, according to the means which could then
+be obtained, I might either proceed again by sea to the vicinity of the
+Glenelg or the Fitzroy; or, if a proper vessel and equipments could not
+be had, I might endeavour to pass the range to the north-east of that
+colony, ascertain the direction of the streams which must be thrown off
+by it to the interior, and trace the main river into which they fell (if
+such there was) to its outlet.
+
+PROCEED TO SWAN RIVER.
+
+I accordingly embarked my party and the stores in my possession at Port
+Louis on the 21st August 1838, and arrived on the 18th September at Swan
+River, where I lost no time in communicating my views to Sir James
+Stirling, who concurred in the plan for returning to the north-west; and
+it was arranged that as soon as the colonial vessel Champion, then absent
+on a voyage to St. George's Sound, should come back to the Swan, it
+should be prepared for the conveyance to Camden Bay of myself and party,
+reinforced by such additional persons as might feel disposed to proceed
+there at their own cost for speculative purposes.
+
+RETURN TO THE NORTH-WEST FRUSTRATED.
+
+It was not however until the month of December following that the
+Colonial schooner became disposable, and then new impediments arose from
+her being found so much in want of repair as to be, in Sir James
+Stirling's opinion, scarcely in a condition to proceed on such a voyage
+as we contemplated, whilst the repairs required were of a nature which
+could not be effected in the Colony. From these and other considerations,
+more especially the danger and disappointment likely to be experienced
+for want of proper equipment, which it was found very difficult to supply
+at the Swan in an effective and satisfactory manner, the expedition to
+the North-west was deemed unadvisable and for the present given up.
+
+It is unnecessary here to dwell on the mortification I felt at being
+obliged thus to abandon my long-cherished projects. The delays I had
+already experienced were sufficiently vexatious, but I had endeavoured to
+turn the time thus lost to some profit by endeavouring to acquaint myself
+with the resources of the country, as well as in acquiring information of
+a scientific nature, and I had attained such a knowledge of the language
+of the natives as enabled me to form a vocabulary of the different
+dialects spoken in these parts, which was printed and forwarded to
+England at the close of the year.
+
+My excursions into the country from Perth whilst awaiting the arrival and
+fitting out of the Champion were necessarily short, but the journal of
+one to the northward, made in company with my young friend Mr. Frederick
+Smith, who afterwards fell a sacrifice in the expedition to Shark Bay,
+will I think be interesting enough to be inserted here.
+
+EXCURSION TO THE NORTH OF PERTH.
+
+November 30.
+
+Mr. Smith and myself started at noon this day, accompanied by Corporal
+Auger and two natives, upon a trip in a northerly direction; about 5 P.M.
+we reached a lake distant about fifteen miles from Perth, and called by
+the natives Mooloore: we halted here for the night.
+
+The horses were scarcely tethered and our fire made when four more
+natives joined the party; their names were Noogongoo, Kurral, Jeebar, and
+Dudemurry; they brought us a present of twenty-seven freshwater
+tortoises, the average weight of each of which was half a pound. They
+said that, although the lake was called Mooloore, the name of the land we
+were sitting on was Doondalup.
+
+STORY-TELLING.
+
+As soon as supper was finished they became very talkative, and, in a sort
+of recitative, recounted various adventures; and, when they conceived
+that they had sufficiently entertained me, they requested me to give them
+an account of my adventures in the northern part of the country, where
+they had heard from other natives that I had been for some time.
+
+Having now acquired some knowledge of their language, I was able to make
+myself tolerably intelligible to them, and they listened with the
+greatest anxiety and interest to the various misfortunes that befel me.
+When they heard that I had been wounded by the natives to the north no
+persuasions or protestations upon my part could convince them that my
+object in now proceeding in that direction again was merely to gratify
+curiosity, and not from motives of revenge; but they kept continually
+requesting me not to attempt to kill anybody until I had passed a spot
+named Yalgarrin, about ten days journey to the north, and they then
+advised me indiscriminately to shoot everybody I saw; and were the more
+urgent in pressing the adoption of this course upon me from the fact of a
+quarrel existing between some of their relatives and the tribe dwelling
+there.
+
+After I had exhausted the theme of my northern journey they desired me to
+give them some information with regard to England; I therefore related
+various circumstances which I thought would amuse them. Amongst other
+things I described the track of the sun in the heavens in those northern
+latitudes; this they fully understood, and it excited their most
+unqualified admiration. I now spoke to them of still more northern
+latitudes; and went so far as to describe those countries in which the
+sun never sets at a certain period of the year.
+
+ITS IMPRESSION ON THE NATIVES.
+
+Their astonishment now knew no bounds: "Ah I that must be another sun;
+not the same as the one we see here," said an old man; and in spite of
+all my arguments to the contrary, the others adopted this opinion. I
+wound up the night's conversation by an account of the diminutive
+Laplanders, clothed in skins of the seal instead of kangaroo; and amidst
+the shouts of applause that this account excited I laid down to rest. I
+this night observed a circumstance which had often before struck me,
+namely, that savages care but little for narratives concerning civilized
+man, but that anything connected with other races in the same state is
+most greedily received by them.
+
+December 1.
+
+Before sunrise this morning the two natives Yenmar and Nganmar, who had
+accompanied us from Perth, came to me and said that, from what I had told
+them last night, it appeared that some cause of quarrel existed between
+myself and the natives to the north; and that, however pacifically I
+might now express myself, they felt convinced that, if a fair opportunity
+offered, I should revenge myself upon some northern native. Now they,
+being southern men, had nothing whatever to do with these quarrels and
+disputes, and therefore they should at once return to Perth.
+
+I did my utmost by means of protestations and promises to induce them to
+forego this resolution, but in vain; and the only boon I could gain from
+them was that they would accompany me to another tribe, distant about
+five miles, some of whom would probably go on with me; they, at the same
+time, assured me that they would preserve the most profound secrecy as to
+the fact of my having any cause of quarrel to the northward; and advised
+me to hold my tongue upon this point and quietly shoot the first man I
+saw there.
+
+MEETING WITH OTHER NATIVES.
+
+Finding that the arrangement pointed out by these natives was the only
+one I could adopt I was obliged to follow their advice, and we
+accordingly moved off in a north-east, and then north-east by east
+direction. After travelling over about four miles of country we heard the
+distant cries of natives, and soon after came up with and found them
+engaged in the pleasant occupation of carrying two wounded men on their
+shoulders into Perth. These men had quarrelled and had settled the
+dispute to their mutual satisfaction, as well as to that of their
+friends, by spearing each other through their respective thighs. One of
+the poor fellows was very ill and told me that his intention was to sit
+down at my house in Perth until he was well--and he kept his promise.
+
+I had many friends amongst these natives and soon selected four to
+accompany me, their names were Warrup, Jenna, Dwer, and Ugat. There were
+five northern natives with the tribe who had never seen white men; they
+seemed to view us with great suspicion at first, but the present of a
+little bread soon placed us on the most friendly terms; and, after about
+half an hour's halt, we separated, they proceeding to Perth whilst we
+pursued a northerly course. After having made about four miles in this
+direction we halted for the day at the head of the Lake Moolore.
+
+LAKE COUNTRY.
+
+December 2.
+
+We started before dawn, travelling in nearly a straight line across the
+country, our compass course being 329 degrees from the north. After we
+had made about three miles we reached a swampy lake, called Nirrooba,
+covered with wild-fowl. We here halted and prepared our breakfast whilst
+the natives went out to hunt. I soon shot a brace of wild ducks, and they
+speared nine; I now gave little Ugat my gun, and he brought in four more
+ducks, making a total of fifteen. Part of these we cooked, and kept the
+remainder for our dinner. I forgot to mention that we yesterday shot
+twelve parakeets.
+
+I wandered for some distance about the eastern side of this lake and saw
+some very good land, I should say at least fifty acres; and, in addition
+to this land of the best quality, there was plenty of good feed for
+cattle all round the lake.
+
+DELAY, AND BIVOUACK.
+
+At 2 P.M. we started again in a due north direction and, having proceeded
+about four miles, reached a lake called Nowoorgoop. We now changed our
+course to north and by west, and, after travelling six miles more, came
+to a lake called, by the natives, Beeulengurrinyup; the water was however
+so thick and muddy that I determined, although it was getting late, to
+proceed further; we therefore changed our course to north and by east,
+and after travelling for about four miles more reached another lake,
+called Maubeebee. This lake was about three-quarters of a mile long. Mr.
+Smith's feet had latterly become so sore that he had been compelled to
+tie pieces of kangaroo skin over them, and thus equipped to walk without
+his half-boots; and, on coming in to our bivouac, I had the mortification
+to hear that, having been put carelessly on the horses, one of these
+boots had fallen down; I saw therefore that it would be necessary to let
+him and a native go back the next day upon the two horses we had with us
+for the purpose of finding it. To Europeans it would seem rather a
+visionary task to travel twelve or fourteen miles in a trackless forest
+in the hope of recovering a boot, but the natives' eyes are so keen that
+their finding it amounted to a matter of certainty.
+
+LOVELY BIVOUACK.
+
+Our bivouac this night had a beauty about it which would have made anyone
+possessed with the least enthusiasm fall in love with a bush life. We
+were sitting on a gently-rising ground which sloped away gradually to a
+picturesque lake surrounded by wooded hills, whilst the moon shone so
+brightly on the lake that the distance was perfectly clear, and we could
+distinctly see the large flocks of wildfowl as they passed over our heads
+and then splashed into the water, darkening and agitating its silvery
+surface; in front of us blazed a cheerful fire, round which were the dark
+forms of the natives, busily engaged in roasting ducks for us; the
+foreground was covered with graceful grass trees and, at the moment we
+commenced supper, I made the natives set fire to the dried tops of two of
+these, and by the light of these splendid chandeliers, which threw a red
+glare over the whole forest in our vicinity, we ate our evening meal;
+then, closing round the fire, rolled ourselves up in our blankets and
+laid down to sleep.
+
+December 3.
+
+At dawn this morning Mr. Smith and Warrup started on the horses in search
+of his boot; and I spent the day in shooting wildfowl and various kind of
+game, as well as in collecting words from the natives for my vocabulary.
+About 4 P.M. Mr. Smith returned with his boot and we all retired early to
+rest.
+
+December 4.
+
+We started at sunrise and travelled about six miles in the direction of
+17 degrees, and then halted for breakfast at a lake called Boongarrup.
+The whole of the country we passed over this morning was sandy and bad,
+being thinly clothed with Banksia trees; but immediately about the lake
+there was, as usual, good land. We started immediately after breakfast as
+the natives told us we had a long journey to make. Our course now lay in
+the direction of 13 degrees. The country we passed over was still of the
+same sandy nature; and after travelling about ten miles we made another
+lake.
+
+STRANGER TRIBE. NATIVE TOILETTE.
+
+The natives here saw the recent signs of strange blacks and insisted upon
+my coming to a halt whilst they painted themselves and made sundry
+additions to their toilette. I urged my remonstrances upon this head, but
+it was in vain. They said that we should soon see some very pretty girls;
+that I might go on if I liked, but that they would not move until they
+had completed their preparations for meeting their fair friends. I
+therefore made the best of it and sat myself down whilst they continued
+adorning themselves. This being done to their satisfaction, they came and
+requested my opinion as to their appearance; and as I intimated my most
+unqualified approval they became in high spirits, and gave a very
+animated description of the conquests they expected to make.
+
+This weighty affair having been completed we again moved on, the natives
+keeping a careful lookout for the friends they expected to see. They at
+length espied one sitting in the rushes looking for small fish; but no
+sooner did he see the approaching party than he took to his heels as hard
+as he could, and two others whom we had not before observed followed his
+example.
+
+MEETING WITH A NEW TRIBE.
+
+Our native comrades now commenced hallooing to the fugitives, stating
+that I had come from the white people to bring them a present of rice and
+flour. Moreover Jenna shouted out to his uncle, "Am not I your
+nephew--why then should you run away?" This and similar speeches had, at
+length, the desired effect. First one of them advanced, trembling from
+head to foot, and when I went forward to meet him and shook hands with
+him it reassured the others, and they also joined our party, yet still
+not without evident signs of fear. An old man now came up who could not
+be induced to allow me to approach him, appearing to regard me with a
+sort of stupid amazement; neither horses or any other of those things
+which powerfully excited the curiosity of the others had the least charm
+for him, but his eyes were always fixed on me with a look of eagerness
+and anxiety which I was unable to account for.
+
+We explained to the strange natives that we intended to halt for the
+night in this neighbourhood, and asked them to show us a good spot with
+plenty of water and grass. At the same time those I had with me stated to
+the others that unless the women and children came in I would give no
+rice or flour. This declaration was however wholly unauthorised by my
+sanction, and arose from their desire of exhibiting their personal
+attractions to the ladies of these parts; but, feeling rather disposed to
+see a little savage flirtation, I raised no objection to it.
+
+The oldest of the natives, who appeared to regard me with so much
+curiosity, went off for the purpose of collecting the women whilst we
+proceeded to our place of halt. After going about three miles in a due
+north direction we made a river coming from an east and by south
+direction, and here called by the natives Goonmarrarup; it lies in rather
+a deep valley, and at this point consisted of large pools connected by a
+running stream about 20 yards wide. There was plenty of wildfowl upon
+these pools and Ugat soon shot some for us.
+
+SCENERY.
+
+The scenery here was very picturesque: high wooded hills were upon each
+side of us, and the valley was open and rather thinly timbered; but the
+few trees it contained were of considerable size and beauty. Beneath one
+of these we prepared our bivouac, the strange natives doing their utmost
+to render themselves useful. They had never before seen white people, and
+the quickness with which they understood our wants and hastened to
+gratify them was very satisfactory.
+
+MEETING WITH NATIVE WOMEN.
+
+After we had tethered the horses and made ourselves tolerably comfortable
+we heard loud voices from the hills above us: the effect was fine for
+they really almost appeared to float in the air; and as the wild cries of
+the women, who knew not our exact position, came by upon the wind, I
+thought it was well worth a little trouble to hear these savage sounds
+under such circumstances. Our guides shouted in return, and gradually the
+approaching cries came nearer and nearer.
+
+CURIOUS SUPERSTITION. CEREMONIES.
+
+I was however wholly unprepared for the scene that was about to take
+place. A sort of procession came up, headed by two women down whose
+cheeks tears were streaming. The eldest of these came up to me and,
+looking for a moment at me, said, "Gwa, gwa, bundo bal," "Yes, yes, in
+truth it is him;" and then, throwing her arms round me, cried bitterly,
+her head resting on my breast; and, although I was totally ignorant of
+what their meaning was, from mere motives of compassion I offered no
+resistance to her caresses, however disagreeable they might be, for she
+was old, ugly, and filthily dirty; the other younger one knelt at my
+feet, also crying.
+
+At last the old lady, emboldened by my submission, deliberately kissed me
+on each cheek, just in the manner a French woman would have done; she
+then cried a little more and, at length relieving me, assured me that I
+was the ghost of her son who had some time before been killed by a
+spear-wound in his breast. The younger female was my sister; but she,
+whether from motives of delicacy or from any imagined backwardness on my
+part, did not think proper to kiss me.
+
+My new mother expressed almost as much delight at my return to my family
+as my real mother would have done had I been unexpectedly restored to
+her. As soon as she left me my brothers and father (the old man who had
+previously been so frightened) came up and embraced me after their
+manner, that is, they threw their arms round my waist, placed their right
+knee against my right knee, and their breast against my breast, holding
+me in this way for several minutes. During the time that the ceremony
+lasted I, according to the native custom, preserved a grave and mournful
+expression of countenance.
+
+This belief, that white people are the souls of departed blacks, is by no
+means an uncommon superstition amongst them; they themselves, never
+having an idea of quitting their own land, cannot imagine others doing
+it; and thus, when they see white people suddenly appear in their
+country, and settling themselves down in particular spots, they imagine
+that they must have formed an attachment for this land in some other
+state of existence; and hence conclude the settlers were at one period
+black men, and their own relations. Likenesses either real or imagined
+complete the delusion; and from the manner of the old woman I have just
+alluded to, from her many tears, and from her warm caresses, I feel
+firmly convinced that she really believed I was her son, whose first
+thought upon his return to earth had been to re-visit his old mother, and
+bring her a present. I will go still farther and say that, although I did
+not encourage this illusion, I had not the heart to try to undeceive the
+old creature and to dispel her dream of happiness. Could I have remained
+long enough to have replaced this vain impression by a consoling faith I
+would gladly have done it; but I did not like to destroy this belief and
+leave her no other in the place of it.
+
+The men next proceeded to embrace their relation Jenna in the same manner
+they had before done me; and this part of the ceremony was now concluded.
+
+The women, who had retired after having welcomed me, again came in from
+behind some bushes, where the children all yet remained and, bringing
+several of them up to me, insisted on my hugging them. The little things
+screamed and kicked most lustily, being evidently frightened out of their
+wits; but the men seized on and dragged them up. I took the youngest ones
+in my arms, and by caresses soon calmed their fears; so that those who
+were brought afterwards cried to reach me first, instead of crying to be
+taken away.
+
+A POINT OF HONOUR.
+
+A considerable time had been occupied by these various occurrences, which
+to me had been most interesting; but one of a more painful character was
+now to follow. It appears that a sister of the native Jenna had been
+speared and killed by a man who at present was resident with this tribe;
+and, although most of them were on friendly terms with this native, they
+conceived that Jenna was bound to revenge her death in fair and open
+fight. The old lady (my mother) went up to him and, seizing his merro, or
+throwing-stick, told him that the man who had killed his sister was at a
+little distance; "and if," said she, "you are not a man, and know not how
+to use this, let a woman's hand try what it can do," at the same time
+trying to force it from him. All the time that she was thus pretending to
+wrench his merro away she indulged in a most eloquent speech to endeavour
+to rouse his courage. I do not know enough of the language to translate
+it with proper spirit or effect, as I only caught the general meaning: it
+had however a great effect on Jenna; and some young ladies coming in at
+the conclusion, his mind was instantly made up; indeed the certainty that
+bright eyes were to look upon his deeds appeared to have much the same
+effect upon him that it had upon the knights of old and, jumping up, he
+selected three good spears (all the men being willing to lend him theirs)
+and hurried off to an open space where his antagonist was waiting for
+him.
+
+NATIVE MODE OF COMBAT.
+
+The combats, one of which was now about to take place, much resemble the
+ancient tournaments. They are conducted with perfect fairness. The
+combatants fight in an open space, their friends all standing by to see
+fair play, and all the preliminaries as to what blows are to be
+considered foul or fair are arranged beforehand, sometimes with much
+ceremony.
+
+Taking into account the fantastic ornaments and paintings of the natives,
+the graceful attitudes they throw themselves into either when trying to
+avoid the spears of their enemy, or about to throw their own; and the
+loud cries and wild motions with which they attempt to confuse and
+terrify their adversaries, I must confess that if any exhibition of this
+nature can be considered showy or attractive, this has no ordinary claims
+to admiration.
+
+NATIVE DUEL. REVENGEFUL COMBAT AND MURDER PREVENTED.
+
+I am however not fond of shows in which the safety of my fellow-creatures
+is concerned, and on the present occasion was very anxious that nothing
+of the kind should take place; for before I could induce Jenna to come
+with me, I had passed my word for his safety, and I could not bear the
+thought of his being now either killed or wounded. When therefore the
+natives came to request our attendance at this spectacle, which they
+evidently expected would afford us great amusement, I intimated my
+decided disapproval of it: at first they imagined that this reluctance
+arose from some apprehension of a quarrel upon our parts, and to remove
+this the greater part of the men, who now amounted to sixteen, laid down
+their spears by our stores. I still however would not sanction the combat
+and, taking up my gun, intimated my intention of seeing that nothing was
+done to injure Jenna; upon this my brothers proceeded in a friendly way
+to hold me: which is exactly what one sees in England when two men, who
+have not the least intention in the world of hurting one another, declare
+in a loud tone their fixed determination of proceeding to the most
+desperate extremities; whilst mutual friends stand by and appear with the
+utmost difficulty to prevent them from putting their threats in
+execution. It was just in this manner that my soi-disant brothers held
+me, apparently not entertaining the least doubt but that I would easily
+allow myself to be persuaded not to interfere. I had now recourse to
+another expedient, and this was to declare to those about me that, if
+either of the combatants was wounded, I should instantly pack up the
+flour and rice and proceed to the white men's fires. This had the desired
+effect: those around me started off and put the holding system so
+effectually in force that the other natives and the two combatants soon
+came in.
+
+Some of the natives who now approached told Mr. Smith that a cannon had
+been heard that morning in the direction of Fremantle; we therefore knew
+that a vessel had arrived, and this made me anxious to return to Perth;
+for, in the event of our obtaining canvas for the Champion's sails, I
+expected that vessel would be ready to take us in a few days to the
+north-west coast.
+
+RETURN TO PERTH.
+
+My anxiety to return was also increased by other reasons. Mr. Smith had,
+with the exception of the first few miles, walked the whole distance from
+Perth in pieces of kangaroo skin, and his feet were now in a dreadful
+state from the joint effect of thorns and bruises; he however never
+complained, and so much did I admire the quietness and perseverance with
+which he had borne up against so serious an inconvenience, that I was the
+more anxious to put an end to it as soon as possible. Besides it was
+evident that very deadly feelings existed between Jenna and the murderer
+of his sister, for he (Jenna) came and requested me to call this native
+my friend, at the same time to give him plenty of flour and rice, "And,"
+added he, "by-and-bye, ask him to sleep at your fire; then, in the night,
+whilst he is asleep, I can easily spear him; and I will off, and walk to
+Perth." I however cooled Jenna's ardour by whispering to him that, if any
+quarrel was brought about by his attempting to spear this native, I
+should instantly shoot him; as I had no idea of running a risk of losing
+all our lives through his imprudence. This declaration had a very
+salutary effect, and my now giving the promised present of rice and flour
+entirely put a stop to all further differences.
+
+The natives I had with me employed themselves in teaching the others, to
+whom flour was an unknown commodity, the art of making dampers; whilst
+Mr. Smith and myself, having arranged to start for Perth early the next
+morning, mixed with the groups and visited their fires; the little
+children now crawled to our feet and, all fear being laid aside, regarded
+our movements with the greatest curiosity. After various amusing
+conversations and recountals of former deeds the natives gradually, one
+by one, dropped off to sleep; and we in turn, one always remaining on the
+watch, followed their example.
+
+INVITATION TO A NATIVE FEAST.
+
+December 5.
+
+I should have stated, in justice to the natives, that they last night
+brought me the head and forequarters of a kangaroo, being the only game
+they had with them; and of this they offered to make me a present, which
+however I did not accept. They were again this morning very anxious that
+we should delay our journey for a day or two, promising upon their part,
+if we acceded to the request, to give us a grand entertainment at which
+all their young men would dance, and that we should have abundance of
+kangaroos if we would give flour in return. I deemed it however most
+prudent to hasten my return to Perth to see what vessel had arrived;
+therefore, after taking a cordial farewell of our friends, we moved off
+on our homeward route and reached Boongarrup about the middle of the day
+following, by a route rather to the westward of that by which we had come
+out.
+
+December 6.
+
+This morning we started at daybreak and breakfasted at Manbeebee, and
+immediately after breakfast resumed our route. I left the main party with
+two natives and travelled up a swampy valley running nearly in the same
+line as the chain of lakes we had followed in going. The natives insisted
+on it that these lakes were all one and the same water; and when, to
+prove to the contrary, I pointed to a hill running across the valley,
+they took me to a spot in it, called Yundelup, where there was a
+limestone cave, on entering which I saw, about ten feet below the level
+of the bottom of the valley, a stream of water running strong from south
+to north in a channel worn through the limestone. There were several
+other remarkable caves about here, one of which was called the Doorda
+Mya, or the Dog's House. Probably therefore the drainage of this part of
+the country is affected by the chain of lakes, which must afterwards fall
+into the river I saw to the northward. We slept at Nowoorgoop.
+
+RETURN TO PERTH.
+
+December 7.
+
+We slept at Mooloore, and on the morning of the 8th we entered Perth and
+found that the native's information was true, for the Britomart had
+arrived from England.
+
+I have already stated that on the arrival of the Champion her condition
+did not enable us to proceed in her, and all prospect of being able to
+conduct another expedition to the north-west coast being, for the
+present, abandoned, I could only await further instructions from the
+Government at home, and in the meantime resolved to employ the interval
+in some scheme of exploration from the Swan which did not present the
+same obstacles. Having again consulted Sir James Stirling, it was first
+arranged that I should endeavour to explore overland in the direction of
+Shark Bay; but this was soon abandoned on account of the difficulty of
+procuring horses; and, to enable me to attempt this scheme with any hope
+of success, I should consequently be obliged to incur a much greater
+expense than I felt warranted in doing.
+
+The same objection did not however exist to the plan of exploring the
+coast towards Shark Bay in boats; and I imagined, if I could obtain two
+good ones qualified for the purpose, that I might at a small expense have
+some chance of making a successful trip. But there still existed a
+difficulty in getting boats which occasioned a further delay.
+
+Sir James Stirling had now (January 1839) quitted the colony, having been
+succeeded in the government by John Hutt, Esquire, and, as no immediate
+prospect was apparent of accomplishing my present design, I readily
+acceded to a request made to me which led to another excursion to the
+southward of Perth, the principal circumstances of which are narrated in
+the following short journal.
+
+EXCURSION IN SEARCH OF MR. ELLIOTT. CAUSE OF IT.
+
+In consequence of a conversation I had with his Excellency the Governor
+on the morning of the 8th of January I received, in the afternoon of that
+day, a letter from the Colonial Secretary stating that:
+
+From accounts which had been received from the Williams and Leschenault,
+there appeared every reason to believe that Mr. George Elliott, who left
+the former place for the latter on the 17th December, had lost his way,
+as no accounts of his arrival have been received from the Leschenault,
+the Williams, or any other place.
+
+Under such circumstances His Excellency the Governor is anxious that a
+party in search of him should be despatched from Perth, and he has
+instructed me to inform you that, if you could form such a party from
+your own establishment, you would be rendering a service to the local
+government, etc. etc.
+
+...
+
+As I had at this moment no matter of importance to occupy the party I
+resolved to follow that course which the calls of humanity pointed out to
+me, and within an hour from the receipt of this letter Mr. Walker,
+myself, and the two non-commissioned officers of the Sappers and Miners
+were ready to proceed. It was found however impossible to procure the
+necessary horses for us before the next day, and our departure was
+consequently delayed until the morning of the 9th.
+
+Before entering into the details of this expedition it is requisite to
+give a short outline of the circumstances under which we started. The
+Williams River, from which Mr. Elliott had proceeded, is distant about
+seventy miles from Leschenault in a direct line. The Williams is in the
+interior, and the Leschenault on the sea-coast, and between the two
+places lies the Darling Range, a high chain of mountains which had never
+before been crossed at this point. Now, under ordinary circumstances Mr.
+Elliott might have been expected to have reached Leschenault in three or
+four days. He had therefore only carried with him a supply of provisions
+calculated to last for that period. His party consisted of two men
+besides himself, and he had with him a mare and filly.
+
+His absence had however now unaccountably extended to a period of twenty
+days; and the only rational conclusion that could be arrived at was that
+he had either been murdered by the natives or had lost his way.
+
+The Williams is distant from Perth in a direct line about one hundred and
+twenty miles, and I had thus a considerable journey to perform before I
+could get upon Mr. Elliott's tracks; and as this was the bad season of
+the year there was but little hope that we should be able to follow them
+for any great distance, if we ever succeeded in finding them.
+
+Notwithstanding these various discouraging circumstances I still however
+felt warm hopes for his ultimate safety. He was well acquainted with the
+bush, having been ten years in the colony; and the same articles of food
+which formed the subsistence of the natives would at least enable him to
+maintain life for a considerable period. He had moreover with him two
+horses, which past experience had taught me not only to be a nutritious,
+but even an agreeable article of food. I imagined therefore that no
+immediate danger of starvation need be apprehended; and in order that I
+might have the best possible chance of finding his traces three
+intelligent natives, Miago, Denmar, and Ninda, were engaged to accompany
+me.
+
+On the morning of the 9th however, when the party were all ready to
+start, these natives were not forthcoming. The length of the journey and
+the danger of falling in with hostile tribes had frightened them, and
+they therefore kept themselves aloof from us; but Kaiber, one of the most
+intelligent natives of these parts, volunteered to supply their place.
+Our three horses were soon swum across the estuary of the Swan; and with
+no slight anxiety I started on an expedition upon the proper conduct of
+which would probably depend the lives of three of my fellow-creatures.
+
+ROUTE TO THE MURRAY.
+
+Our proceedings until we had reached Pinjarra on the banks of the Murray
+offer little or no interesting matter; I shall therefore pass them over
+in silence. We arrived in Pinjarra on the morning of the 11th, having
+been somewhat delayed by the weakness of a young horse; as there was
+however no possibility of obtaining another in its place I was obliged to
+take it on with us. On the afternoon of the 11th we made little more than
+four miles in a southerly direction along the banks of the Murray.
+
+THE MURRAY RIVER.
+
+On the 12th we started before dawn and travelled about eight miles in a
+south by east direction; we then halted for breakfast on the banks of the
+same river, which here issues out of the Darling Range after having found
+a passage through that chain of mountains. Whilst breakfast was preparing
+I walked up into the mouth of the gorge, which was replete with most wild
+and beautiful scenery at this point. The river comes streaming out from a
+rocky mountain pass, forming in its course a series of small cataracts.
+The vale in which it runs offers an interesting specimen of woodland
+scenery, and the high, bold, and partially bare granite mountains which
+rear their heads above it differ much in character from the tame mountain
+scenery that lies between Perth and York: this place is a favourite
+resort of the wild cattle, and we saw everywhere numerous recent traces
+of them.
+
+WILD CATTLE.
+
+In the afternoon we again started in a south by east direction. About a
+mile after leaving the Murray we came suddenly upon four head of wild
+cattle; two, which were distant from us, made off to the mountains, but a
+noble white bull and a cow followed a line lying exactly in the course we
+were pursuing. As we had one saddle-horse, which I was then on, I could
+not resist having a gallop after them. I soon brought the bull to bay,
+but when he had taken breath he turned and made off again and, as I had
+no time to spare, I gave him no further interruption; on however wishing
+to ascertain the hour I found that my watch had fallen from my pocket
+during the course of the gallop.
+
+NATIVE TRACKING.
+
+I now waited until the party came up, when I requested Kaiber the native
+to walk back and find the watch. This he assured me was utterly
+impossible, and I really at the time agreed in this opinion; however as
+it was a watch I much valued I determined to make one effort. "Well,
+Kaiber," I said to him, "your people had told me you could see tracks
+well, but I find they are mistaken; you have but one eye, something is
+the matter with the other (this was really the case) no young woman will
+take you, for if you cannot follow my tracks and find a watch I have just
+dropped how can you kill game for her." This speech had the desired
+effect, and the promise of a shilling heightened his diligence, and I
+returned with him. The ground we had passed over was badly suited for the
+purpose of tracking and the scrub was thick; nevertheless, to my delight
+and surprise, within the period of half an hour my watch was restored to
+my pocket. This feat of Kaiber's surpassed anything of the sort I had
+previously seen performed by the natives.
+
+We completed about eight miles and then halted for the night on the banks
+of a running stream issuing from a gorge in the hills. There was a
+considerable portion of good land in its neighbourhood and the horses
+appeared not a little pleased with the excellence of the feed.
+
+The 13th we spent in passing a portion of the Darling Range. After
+travelling for eleven miles over a hilly country we came upon a beautiful
+valley between two steep and high hills. Two streams poured down into
+this valley and there formed a small freshwater lake. The scenery here
+was so green and verdant, the tranquil little lake was so covered with
+broad-leaved waterlilies, and the whole wore such an air of highland
+mountain scenery that I could readily have imagined I was once more in
+Scotland. About this lake there was also much good feed.
+
+CROSS THE DARLING RANGE.
+
+In the course of the afternoon we travelled eight miles further in an
+easterly direction, and were then obliged to halt without water, which we
+did not again succeed in finding after we left the lake.
+
+TO THE HOTHAM RIVER.
+
+On the morning of the 14th we had only travelled six miles in a due
+easterly direction when I found we had crossed the Darling Range; our
+course now lay along a level fertile plain, well fitted for pastoral
+purposes. We travelled across this a distance of about five miles when we
+came upon the river Bannister, which here was nothing but a series of
+large pools with good feed for cattle about them. We halted for breakfast
+and afterwards continued in an easterly direction, when, after travelling
+for another six miles, we reached the Hotham. The land we passed over
+between the Bannister and Hotham was equal in goodness to any I have seen
+in Western Australia.
+
+The circumstance of both water and feed abounding at the Hotham induced
+me to halt here for the night, and on the morning of the 15th we
+commenced our toilsome march from the Hotham to the Williams; the
+distance is about twenty-eight miles in a direct line; the country
+consisting of rocky hills, difficult to cross; and throughout the whole
+of this distance we could find no water: we were thus for eleven hours
+exposed to the sun in one of the hottest days I have ever felt, and we
+were not a little glad when just at sunset we found ourselves on the
+banks of the Williams.
+
+CONDITION OF DISTANT SETTLERS.
+
+We here found the establishment of an out-settler, of which it would be
+difficult to convey an adequate idea: the house consisted of a few
+upright poles, one end of each resting on the ground, whilst the other
+met a transverse pole, to which they were tied; cross-poles then ran
+along these, and to complete the building a sort of rude thatch was tied
+on it. It was open at both ends and exposed to the land wind, which, as
+the situation was high, I found a very unpleasant visitor during the
+night. Here we found a very large flock of sheep in fair condition, also
+a well-supplied stockyard, and cattle in beautiful order; upwards of
+twenty kangaroo dogs completed the establishment.
+
+These settlers were, at the time I visited the Williams, four in number;
+consisting of one young man, two youths, and a little boy. Four soldiers
+were quartered about sixteen miles from them, and there was no other
+European within fifty miles of the spot. The distance they had to send
+for all stores and necessaries was one hundred and twenty miles, and this
+through a country untraversed by roads and where they were exposed to the
+hostility of the natives in the event of any ill-feeling arising on their
+part.
+
+Nothing can give a more lively notion of the difficulties and privations
+undergone by first settlers than the fact that, when I left this hut,
+they had no flour, tea, sugar, meat, or any provision whatever except
+their livestock and the milk of the cattle, their sole dependence for any
+other article of food being the kangaroo dogs, and the only thing I was
+able to do in order to better their situation was to leave them some
+shot.
+
+All other circumstances connected with their position were on the same
+scale. They had but one knife, an old clasp one; there was but one small
+bed for one person, the others sleeping on the ground every night, with
+little or no covering; they had no soap to wash themselves or their
+clothes, yet they submitted cheerfully to all these privations,
+considering them as necessary attendants upon their situation. Two of
+these out-settlers were gentlemen, not only by birth but also in thought
+and manner, and, to tell the truth, I believe they were far happier than
+many an idle young man I have seen lounging about in England, a burden to
+himself and his friends; for it must be borne in mind that they were
+realizing a future independence for themselves.
+
+THEIR PRIVATIONS.
+
+Many of the ills and privations which they endured were however
+unnecessary, and were entailed upon them by the mistaken system that has
+been pursued at Swan River of spreading to the utmost their limited
+population. I trust however that a wiser line of policy will now be
+pursued, and that settling will consequently become an easier, less
+dangerous, and far more agreeable task.
+
+ROUTE ALONG MR. ELLIOTT'S TRACKS. TRACKING MR. ELLIOTT.
+
+On the morning of the 16th Mr. Walker went to the Upper Williams, where
+the soldiers were quartered, for a further supply of provisions, whilst
+the native and myself tried to make off Mr. Elliott's tracks, in doing
+which we were not however successful. The next morning, previously to Mr.
+Walker's return, I renewed my search with Kaiber for the tracks with a
+little more success, as amidst the numerous traces of cattle and horses
+along the bed of the river the native was able by his acute eye to
+discover the footsteps of a colt. When Mr. Walker returned the little boy
+belonging to the establishment came back with him. He had seen Mr.
+Elliott start and assured me that he had heard him express his
+determination of keeping the bed of the river for eighteen miles. With
+this piece of information we moved on down the river on the tracks which
+we were able to distinguish for about two miles and a half, when they
+quitted it in a south-south-west direction; and from the hard nature of
+the ground the tracking from thence became excessively difficult. If the
+colt had traversed this route, its little foot had made no impression on
+the soil; and when we got on the ironstone hills, we altogether lost the
+traces of the horse. Both the native and myself imagined, from our seeing
+no tracks of the colt, from the indistinctness of those of the horse, and
+from the circumstance of the boy's telling us that Mr. Elliott intended
+to proceed eighteen miles down the river, that we had followed the wrong
+marks; just therefore as night began to fall I moved back to the river.
+
+January 18.
+
+We started at dawn, following down the river, but could see nothing of
+Mr. Elliott's tracks: and our evening journey was equally unsuccessful. I
+now became very anxious and indeed rather alarmed for the safety of the
+missing party, but resolved, as the best plan I could pursue, to strike
+across the mountains to Leschenault, making a due west course my true
+line of route, but constantly diverging two or three miles to the south
+of this, and again returning to it by another route. I should thus have
+every chance of falling in with the track I wished to find; and in the
+event of my not succeeding I should be certain, if on my arrival at
+Leschenault no tidings had been received of Mr. Elliott, that his party
+must be somewhere to the southward and eastward of the course I had
+taken, and that I might still, by the assistance of the Leschenault
+natives to whom this country was known, succeed in finding him before
+such a period had elapsed as would render assistance useless.
+
+KILLING A KANGAROO.
+
+On the 19th, in pursuance of this determination, we made a rapid push of
+nearly twenty miles in a westerly direction without reckoning our
+divergencies to the southward. Nothing however but toil and
+disappointment rewarded our exertions. We killed a large Boomer, or old
+male kangaroo, the largest indeed I had ever seen; the dogs were unable
+to master him he fought so desperately, and it was not until after he had
+wounded two of them that I succeeded in dispatching it by a sort of
+personal encounter in which a club was the weapon I used. The native who
+was carrying my gun had dropped it the instant the kangaroo was started,
+and I was thus unable to shoot it. We cut off as much of the flesh as the
+dogs and ourselves required for two days and left the rest in the forest.
+We halted for the night on a small stream, the only one I had seen since
+we quitted the Williams.
+
+COUNTRY UPON THE HARVEY RIVER.
+
+Our departure was delayed on the morning of the 20th for about an hour
+from being unable to find one of the horses which had strayed away in the
+night, but, the fugitive being at length discovered and brought back, we
+started and made nine miles before breakfast. We then travelled nine and
+a half miles more, when we came upon the river Harvey near its source.
+The character of the country we had travelled over since entering the
+mountains was monotonous in the extreme. It consisted of an elevated
+tableland composed of ironstone and granite occasionally traversed by
+veins of whinstone. On this tableland there was little or no herbage; the
+lower vegetation consisting principally of a short prickly scrub, in some
+places completely destroyed by the native fires; but the whole country
+was thickly clothed with mahogany trees, so that in many parts it might
+be called a dense forest. These mahogany trees ascended, without a bend
+or without throwing off a branch, to the height of from forty to fifty
+feet, occasionally much more, and the ground was so encumbered by the
+fallen trunks of these forest trees that it was sometimes difficult to
+pick a passage between them. Even at midday the forest wore a sombre
+aspect, and a stillness and solitude reigned throughout it that was very
+striking. Occasionally a timid kangaroo might be seen stealing off in the
+distance, or a kangaroo-rat might dart out from a tuft beneath your feet;
+but these were rare circumstances. The most usual disturber of these
+wooded solitudes were the black cockatoos; but I have never in any part
+of the world seen so great a want of animal life as in these mountains.
+
+Upon our gaining the Harvey however the scene somewhat changed; the river
+here bore the appearance of a mountain trout-stream, sometimes gurgling
+along with a rapid current, and sometimes forming large pools. The
+tableland could no longer be distinguished as it here changed to a broken
+chain of hills traversed by deep valleys; the scrub was higher and
+entwined by a variety of climbing plants, which rendered it very
+difficult to traverse; the mahogany trees became less frequent, and
+various others were mingled with them, whilst on the banks of the river
+good forage abounded. We made about five miles more through a country of
+this description and then halted for the night.
+
+LOSE THE TRACKS. NATIVE GRAVE.
+
+January 21.
+
+We did not make more than seven miles before breakfast this morning,
+being embarrassed both by high and tangled underwood and rocky hills. We
+then halted on the banks of the Harvey, where there was some beautiful
+grass. We had still been able to find nothing of Mr. Elliott's tracks,
+and had in vain looked for natives: but this evening, soon after starting
+again, for the first time signs of them appeared, for we found a
+newly-made grave, carefully constructed, with a hut built over it to
+protect the now senseless slumberer beneath from the rains of winter. All
+that friendship could do to render his future state happy had been done.
+His throwing stick was stuck in the ground at his head; his broken spears
+rested against the entrance of the hut, the grave was thickly strewed
+with wilgey or red earth; and three trees in front of the hut, chopped
+with a variety of notches and uncouth figures and then daubed over with
+wilgey, bore testimony that his death had been bloodily avenged.
+
+KAIBER'S FEARS.
+
+The native Kaiber gazed with a degree of concern and uneasiness on this
+scene. "A man has been slain here," he said. "And what, Kaiber," I asked
+him, "is the reason that these spears are broken, that the trees are
+notched, and that wilgey is strewed on the grave?" His answer was,
+"Neither you nor I know: our people have always done so, and we do so
+now." I then said to him, "Kaiber, I intend to stop here for the night,
+and sleep." "You are deceiving me," he said: "I cannot rest here, for
+there are many spirits in this place." I laughed at his fears, and we
+again moved on.
+
+WANT OF WATER.
+
+We now soon got clear of the hills and came out upon a plain of good
+land, thickly covered with grass-trees. This plain was about three miles
+in width and, having traversed it, we found ourselves in a sandy country
+abounding with Banksia trees. We crossed several swamps, now completely
+dried up, and having made ten miles halted for the night without water.
+Mr. Walker scraped a hole in one of these swamps and obtained a little
+putrid and muddy water which, not being very thirsty, I did not drink,
+more especially as we had now, or indeed for several days, had no tea or
+anything else to mix with it.
+
+January 22.
+
+We started again at dawn this morning and travelled rapidly, for we were
+anxious to obtain water. In six miles we came out upon the sea. If my
+reckoning was right we ought now to have been about ten miles to the
+north of Leschenault; I therefore turned due south. Kaiber however now
+came up and remonstrated against this, assuring me that I was wrong and
+that we were, at this moment, two or three miles to the south of
+Leschenault, and that if I persisted in going on in this direction we
+should all die for want of water. As I put great faith in his knowledge
+of the country I halted and ascended a hill to try and get a view along
+the coast; I could not however succeed on account of the haze; and
+believing then that I must be in error I turned north. We trudged on,
+hour after hour; the sun got higher and more intensely hot, whilst,
+having been four-and-twenty hours without water, the greater part of
+which time had been spent in violent exercise under a burning sun, the
+pangs of thirst became very annoying. A short period more convinced me
+that I was right, and that Kaiber was in error; and, as we soon after
+fell in with two native wells now dried up, we dug another in a
+promising-looking spot near them, and obtained a little water, very muddy
+and stinking; but I never enjoyed a draught more in my life. We here
+halted for breakfast and by degrees obtained water enough for the horses
+as well as ourselves.
+
+ESTUARY OF THE LESCHENAULT.
+
+The evening was consumed in retracing our steps of the morning, and at
+night we halted near the head of the Leschenault estuary, being again
+without water.
+
+January 23.
+
+Our route this morning was along the estuary of the Leschenault. About
+five miles from this place we fell in with a party of natives, who
+informed us that a few days before Mr. Elliott and those with him had
+arrived there in perfect safety, and my anxiety on this point was
+therefore set at rest. We passed the mouth of the river Collie at the
+bar, which was almost dry, and halted for breakfast on the banks of the
+Preston, about one mile from the house where I expected to find Mr.
+Elliott.
+
+MEET WITH MR. ELLIOTT. MR. ELLIOTT'S ADVENTURES.
+
+No sooner was breakfast despatched than I set off to see Mr. Elliott in
+order to hear the history of his adventures, which were not a little
+surprising. He had, as I before related, started on the 17th of December
+from the Williams, with only three days' provisions and, owing to some
+mistake, had taken a south-south-west course and gone off in the
+direction where we first saw his tracks, and had pursued this route for
+three days, when, seeing nothing of the coast, he suspected he must be
+wrong, and endeavoured to make a due west course; but from the impassable
+nature of the mountain range at this point was unable to do so. About
+this period also, owing to his powder-horn having been placed too near
+the fire, it was accidentally blown away, and he was thus left totally
+without protection in the event of any attack being made on them by the
+natives. His own courage and resolution however never failed, and he
+still made the best of his way to the southward, seizing every
+opportunity of making westing. For twelve days he pursued this course,
+subsisting on native roots and boiled tops of grass trees. About the
+sixth day he fell in with some natives; but they ran away, being
+frightened at the appearance of white men, and he thus could obtain no
+assistance from them. At this period the filly strayed away from the mare
+and was lost. His men behaved admirably; and on the fourteenth day the
+party succeeded in reaching Augusta, having previously made the coast at
+the remarkable white-sand patch about fifty miles to the eastward of it.
+
+Notwithstanding the hardships and sufferings they had undergone this
+party were but very little reduced in strength and, after recruiting for
+a few days at Augusta, returned along the coast to Leschenault, where I
+had the pleasure of seeing them all in good health and spirits.
+
+THE VASSE DISTRICT.
+
+January 21.
+
+Whilst the party reposed themselves this day at Leschenault I hired a
+horse and rode along the shores of Geographe Bay for the purpose of
+seeing the Vasse district. The country between Leschenault and the Vasse
+differs from those other parts of Western Australia that I have yet seen
+in the circumstance that in several parts, between the sea and the recent
+limestone formation, basaltic rocks are developed. A long chain of marshy
+lakes lie between the usual coast sandhills and the ordinary sand
+formations, about which there is some good land and good feed. About the
+river Capel also there is a great deal of good land. The mouths of two
+estuaries that occur between the inlet of Leschenault and the bottom of
+Geographe Bay are both fordable. The district near the bottom of
+Geographe Bay contains much good land, consisting of level plains thickly
+covered with wattle trees; there are also at this season of the year
+extensive plains of dry sand, which bear exactly the appearance of a
+desert.
+
+I passed the night at the house of Mr. Bussel, a settler who has the best
+and most comfortable establishment I have seen in the colony, and
+returned the next day to Leschenault with the intention of starting the
+following one for Perth.
+
+RETURN TO PERTH. RIVER ABSORBED IN SANDY PLAINS.
+
+January 26.
+
+Mr. Elliott this day joined us on our route to Perth, which was attended
+with no circumstance worthy of notice until our arrival at Pinjarra. We
+travelled over extensive plains which in the rainy season of the year
+must be completely flooded, but in vain looked for the Harvey River and
+the other stream which flowed from the hills to the sea. I could find no
+watercourse in which they might probably flow, yet we had left them both
+running strongly at not more than ten miles from the point where we then
+stood. The truth was that they were absorbed in these marshy plains
+before they came within several miles of the sea; and what threw a still
+further light upon the subject was that, although these marshes were
+perfectly dried up and had a hard-baked appearance at the surface, yet if
+a hole about two or three feet deep was scraped in them water directly
+came pouring into it.
+
+On the morning of the 29th we reached Pinjarra; on the 30th Mr. Elliott
+and myself rode as far as the Canning; and early on the 31st we had the
+pleasure of entering Perth together.
+
+
+CHAPTER 14. FROM SWAN RIVER TO THE SHORES OF SHARK BAY.
+
+PLAN OF EXPEDITION.
+
+At length, in the middle of February, after a mortifying delay of nearly
+five months, an opportunity occurred which held out every prospect of
+enabling me to complete the examination of the most interesting portion
+of the north coast, together with the country lying behind it.
+
+Three whale-boats having been procured, an engagement was made with
+Captain Long of the American whaler Russel, of New Bedford, to convey my
+party and the boats to some point to the northward of Shark Bay, and
+there land us, together with a supply of provisions sufficient for five
+months. My intention was to form a provision depot in some island, and
+from that point to commence operations by the examination of the
+undiscovered portions of the bay; and, should circumstances occasionally
+render it desirable, I proposed to explore more minutely parts of the
+country as we coasted along, or to make excursions to such a distance
+inland as we might be able to penetrate.
+
+Having completed the examination of the bay as far as we could with the
+provisions we carried from the depot, I intended to return to it and,
+after recruiting our stock, to make my way along the coast in the
+direction of North-West Cape; making excursions inland as before at such
+points as might seem to merit attention, and thus to continue to go
+northward until our provisions were so far exhausted as to compel us to
+return again to the depot; whence I finally proposed to continue my
+examination to the portion of the coast left unvisited to the southward
+of the depot, as far as Gantheaume Bay.
+
+Several of the individuals who were to compose my party being now much
+experienced in the difficulties that attend explorations both on the
+coast and in the interior of the country, I felt that our enterprise was
+not so hazardous as at first it might appear to be, especially as Mr.
+Hutt had arranged with me as to a spot, to which, in the event of our not
+returning to Swan River within a certain period the Colonial schooner
+would be sent to look for us; and moreover the captain of another
+American whaler had promised to visit North-West Cape at the end of July,
+as it was his intention to remain in Exmouth Gulf during the season of
+the bay fishing. We had thus two chances of being discovered in case of
+any accident preventing us from effecting our previous return to the Swan
+River.
+
+The unfortunate occurrence which frustrated my expectations of completing
+this design, and which threatened the eventual destruction of the whole
+party, will be narrated in its place.
+
+FROM SWAN RIVER FOR SHARK BAY.
+
+I had taken three whale-boats in order to have a spare one should any
+accident reduce the number; and everything being arranged I sailed in the
+Russel from Fremantle on Sunday February the 17th 1839 at 3 P.M. with the
+following party:
+
+Mr. Walker, the Surgeon of the former expedition.
+
+Mr. Frederick Smith, the young gentleman who had accompanied me on a
+former tour.
+
+Corporal Auger and Corporal Coles, Sappers and Miners.
+
+Thomas Ruston, Sailor.
+
+The last three, together with Mr. Walker, had been with me on the first
+expedition, and to these were added:
+
+H. Wood and C. Wood, Seamen.
+
+Clotworthy, Stiles, and Hackney, taken as volunteers at Swan River.
+
+And lastly, Kaiber, an intelligent native of the Swan.
+
+Making in all twelve persons.
+
+Our time during the voyage was occupied principally in getting the three
+whale-boats in order and making other similar preparations. Poor Kaiber
+the native was dreadfully sick from the first.
+
+Sunday February 24 1839.
+
+This evening we Sighted the centre of Dorre Island, and stood in to
+within about two miles of the shore, which we found steep and rocky with
+a heavy surf breaking on it; we then tacked and stood off for the night.
+
+LAND AT BERNIER ISLAND.
+
+February 25.
+
+Soon after daybreak we made the north-western part of Bernier Island and,
+doubling the point at Kok's Island, stood in to Shark Bay. Kok's Island
+is very remarkable: it is nearly a tableland, about a quarter of a mile
+in length, terminating in low cliffs at each extremity; and on the summit
+of this tableland are several large rocks which look like the remains of
+pillars. The land is low. By noon we were all disembarked on Bernier
+Island. The point I had selected for landing on was a sandy beach in a
+little bay, the southern extremity of which was sheltered from the
+south-east by a reef running off the point. Captain Long of the Russel
+made the shore rather to the northward of the point I had chosen and,
+owing to his boat getting broadside on whilst they were landing the
+goods, he was knocked down under it and nearly drowned.
+
+He had scarcely left us (though the Russel was then more than six miles
+off) when we found that our keg of tobacco had been left on board; the
+vessel was soon out of sight, and this article, so necessary in hardships
+where men are deprived of every other luxury, was lost to us. Everything
+else was however found correct. Whilst the men under Mr. Walker's
+direction were arranging the stores Mr. Smith, Kaiber, and myself started
+to search for water but were unsuccessful. Whilst on our return we saw
+three large turtles among some seaweeds in shoal water; and, after a good
+deal of floundering about and some tumbles amongst the breakers, we
+succeeded in turning them, and then brought a party armed with axes, etc.
+and cut them up. One part we immediately converted into soup, and the
+remainder was immersed in a cask of pickle as a store against unforeseen
+misfortunes. When these portions of the turtle were put into the brine
+long after the death of the animals, they quivered for several minutes,
+as if still endowed with the sense of feeling.
+
+DESCRIPTION OF IT.
+
+Bernier Island consists of recent limestone of a reddish tinge,
+containing many recent fossil shells, and having a coating of sand and
+sandy dunes which are arranged in right lines, lying south-east and
+north-west, the direction of the prevailing winds. The island does not
+afford a tree or a blade of grass, but only wretched scrubby bushes.
+Between the dunes regular beds of shells are forming which, when dried
+and light, are drifted up by the wind. The only animals we saw were
+kangaroo-rats, one pigeon, one small land- and many seabirds, a few
+lizards, mosquitoes, ants, crabs, oysters and turtle.
+
+BURY THE STORES. INEFFECTUAL SEARCH FOR WATER.
+
+February 26.
+
+Early this morning we had finished burying our stores. The wind had
+freshened considerably about daylight, and throughout the day it blew
+nearly a gale from the south-east; it now looked so foul that I feared a
+long period of bad weather was about to commence. My own party, as well
+as the crews of the boats which came off from the whaler, had during the
+hurry and confusion incident on landing made very free with our supply of
+water, and as, from the appearance of the island, I felt very doubtful
+whether we should find any more, I put all hands on an allowance of two
+pints and a half a day, and then employed the men thus: one party under
+the direction of Mr. Walker worked at constructing a still, by means of
+which we might obtain fresh water from salt; another made various
+attempts to sink a well; whilst the native, another man, and myself
+traversed the island in search of a supply from the surface.
+
+At night the result of our efforts were recounted, when it appeared that
+Mr. Walker had, by an ingenious contrivance, managed to have such a still
+constructed that we might hope, by means of it, if kept constantly
+working, to obtain just water enough to keep us alive. The party who had
+tried to sink a well had invariably been stopped by hard limestone rock
+in every place they had tried, and all their attempts to penetrate it by
+means of a cold chisel and pickaxe had proved abortive. The party which
+had been out with me searching for water had not seen the slightest sign
+which indicated its presence on the island: we had taken a spade with us,
+but wherever we dug had come down upon the solid rock. Under these
+circumstances I reduced the allowance to two pints a day.
+
+February 27.
+
+This morning it still blew nearly a gale of wind from the south-east. The
+men were occupied in the same manner as yesterday; but towards noon the
+wind moderated a little, and as we could find no water I resolved to make
+an effort to creep along shore to the southward.
+
+LOSS OF A BOAT IN REEMBARKING.
+
+My boat was soon launched in safety, but the Paul Pry, Mr. Walker's boat,
+was not so fortunate; the water in the bay deepened rapidly from the
+steepness of the bank, and the steersman, who was keeping her bow on
+whilst the crew were launching, got frightened from the depth of water
+and the violence of the surf, and let go his hold; when the next surf
+threw the boat broadside on to the sea and, there being nearly half a ton
+weight of stores in her, and the wind at this juncture unfortunately
+freshening, she was in the course of two or three minutes knocked
+completely to pieces. By this mischance all the stores in the boat were
+lost, and nothing but a few planks and some articles of clothing were
+recovered. I placed my own boat at anchor in a little cove for the night
+and, leaving two men in her as keepers, the rest of us swam ashore
+through the surf to render what assistance we could.
+
+The loss of this boat was a very heavy misfortune to commence with; but
+as I had taken the precaution in case of such an accident to provide a
+spare one it was by no means irremediable; the other boat was all ready
+for launching within half an hour, for by not allowing the men to remain
+in a state of inactivity, and by treating the matter lightly, I hoped to
+prevent their being dispirited by this unlucky circumstance.
+
+The wind however continued freshening rapidly, and during the evening and
+night we had heavy squalls accompanied by rain from all quarters, and
+much thunder and lightning. During the night we collected a few quarts of
+water in the sails.
+
+February 28.
+
+About ten A.M. the wind moderated so much that we ventured to launch our
+remaining boat, now become the second, and in a few minutes both were
+riding alongside one another in the little cove. We then commenced
+pulling along the shore of the island, making about a south by east
+course. Having the wind very nearly right ahead, and a heavy head-sea,
+and about half a ton of stores in each of the boats, it was no very
+enviable position that we were in; but anything appeared preferable to
+dying of thirst on Bernier Island; my dislike to which was much increased
+from the fact of Mr. Smith and myself, who slept side by side, having
+been nearly tormented to death in the night by myriads of minute ants
+crawling over us, by mosquitoes stinging us, and by an odious land-crab
+every now and then running over us and feeling with his nippers for a
+delicate morsel.
+
+PULL FOR DORRE ISLAND.
+
+It was nearly three P.M. when we reached the north-eastern extremity of
+Dorre Island and found a most convenient little boat harbour, sheltered
+by a reef from all winds. We therefore stepped out from the boats upon
+the reef and left them lying comfortably at anchor: a search for water
+was instantly commenced; Mr. Walker's party brought some in and we were
+not a little glad to get it, although we heard that it had been collected
+by suction from small holes in the rock and then spitting it into the
+keg. I laid up in store this precious draught, and those who had been
+otherwise employed now accompanied me, in order that each might suck from
+the holes in the rock his own supply of water. The point on which we had
+landed was a flat piece of land covered with sandy dunes which appeared
+to have been recently gained from the sea, and on all the landward sides
+of the flat rose steep rocky cliffs, which is the character of the shores
+of this island. After climbing these cliffs you arrive at a flat
+tableland which forms the general level of the surface. It was evident
+that at no very distant time the sea had washed the foot of these cliffs.
+
+DORRE ISLAND. ITS CHARACTER.
+
+This island is exactly of the same nature as Bernier Island, the only
+difference being that the land here was rather higher than on the former.
+From the top of the cliffs the prospect was not at all inviting; to the
+westward lay the level and almost desert land of Dorre Island, which we
+were on; we had the same prospect to the southward; to the northward we
+looked over a narrow channel which separated us from the barren isle of
+Bernier and was blocked up by fearful-looking reefs, on which broke a
+nasty surf; to the north-eastward lofty bare sandhills were indistinctly
+visible on the main; whilst to the eastward we could see nothing but the
+waters of the bay, which were tossed wildly to and fro as if by a coming
+storm; yet the wind had fallen perceptibly, and the only alarming sign
+was the peculiar look of the sky. After having made these observations,
+and sucked up as much bitter dirty water as I could contrive to do, I
+returned with the others to the boats.
+
+WANT OF WATER.
+
+The holes we found the water in were so small that we could only dip a
+spoon into a few of them; the men however got plenty to drink and then
+commenced hunting a small species of kangaroo-rat which is found on these
+islands, and searching for turtle's eggs, in both of which pursuits they
+were very successful. We then made blazing fires from driftwood which we
+found about, and retired early to rest.
+
+A HURRICANE.
+
+About eleven o'clock I heard a cry of one in great distress, "Mr. Grey,
+Mr. Grey!" I instantly sprung up and answered the call, when Ruston, the
+boatkeeper in my boat, said, "I must heave all overboard, Sir, or the
+boat will be swamped." "Hold on for a minute or two," was my answer,
+whilst I stripped my clothes off. I found that it was blowing a terrific
+gale of wind which increased every moment in a most extraordinary manner;
+the wind was from the south-east, and the breakers came pouring over the
+reef as if the bay was going to empty bodily all its waters into the
+little cove in which the boats were anchored. I now called Mr. Walker and
+Mr. Smith and desired them to follow me off to the boats with two or
+three hands, and then swam out to my own, which I found nearly full of
+water, and it was all that the boat-keeper could do to keep her head on
+to the sea. In a minute or two Mr. Walker and Mr. Smith, who were ever
+foremost in difficulties and dangers, swam off to assist me, but they
+could not induce any of the men to face the sea and storm, which was now
+so terrible that they were all quite bewildered. Mr. Walker swam to his
+own boat; Mr. Smith came to mine. We made fast a line to all the stores,
+etc. and Mr. Smith boldly plunged in again amongst the breakers and
+returned ashore with it, a service of no ordinary danger, for the shore
+was fronted with a sharp coral reef, against which he was certain to be
+dashed by the waves, and, after having got on it, the breakers would keep
+knocking him down and thus cutting his legs to pieces against the rocks.
+Mr. Smith however reached the shore with the line, receiving sundry
+severe cuts and bruises; and, to my great surprise, in a few minutes more
+he was again by my side in the boat, baling away: it was still however
+all we could do to keep the boat afloat.
+
+BOATS DRIVEN ASHORE.
+
+Mr. Walker now called out to me that his boat was drifting, and in a
+moment more she went ashore. For one second we saw her dancing wildly in
+over the breakers, and then she disappeared from us, and we were left in
+uncertainty as to her fate; for, although we were close to the beach, it
+was impossible, amidst the din of elements, to hear what was taking place
+there. An occasional vivid flash of lightning showed us dark figures
+hauling about some huge object, and then again all was wrapped in roar
+and darkness. Mr. Smith and myself in the meanwhile were baling away, and
+Ruston was striving with the steer oar to keep her head to sea, for the
+instant she got the least broadside on the waves broke over her and she
+filled again.
+
+SERIOUS DANGER OF LOSING THE BOATS.
+
+Mr. Walker, nothing daunted by the conduct of the men, having had his own
+boat hauled up, again swam off to us, and for the next hour or two we
+kept the other one not more than half full; but the gale, which had been
+gradually increasing, now became a perfect hurricane, and it was evident
+that this boat must also go ashore. We imagined that Mr. Walker's must be
+stove in several places; and, as to have been left without a boat would
+have been certain destruction to us, I swam ashore to have the party
+ready to try and save mine by hauling her over the reef the instant she
+grounded.
+
+I arrived there with a few cuts and bruises, and found the men on shore
+in a most miserable state; many of them were perfectly appalled by the
+hurricane, never having seen anything of the kind before, and were lying
+under the lee of the bow of Mr. Walker's boat, which, although he had
+drawn it up high and dry upon the sandhills, far above the usual
+high-water mark, was again more than half full of water and seaweed from
+the waves every now and then breaking over her stern. It was with great
+difficulty I roused the men and got them to clear out the seaweed, which
+lightened her somewhat; we then hauled her up a little at a favourable
+opportunity, and advanced her so far that we rather gained upon the water
+by baling, and thus, by degrees, got her quite on land. But as the storm
+continued the waves still continued to encroach upon the shore, and we
+were obliged to repeat this operation of hauling up three successive
+times in the night, which was one of the most fearful I have ever passed.
+I lay drenched through, my wet shirt sticking close to me and my blanket
+soaked with water, for I could not find my clothes again after I came
+ashore. Whenever a flash of lightning broke I looked if the boat was
+drifting in, and there I saw it still dancing about upon the waves,
+whilst the elements were so mighty in their power that I felt shrunk up
+to nothing, and tremulous in my own insignificance.
+
+The grey dawn stole on and the boat gradually became visible; she had
+drifted somewhat nearer shore, but there still were the three figures
+discernible in her, Ruston working away at the steer-oar, and Mr. Smith
+and Mr. Walker alternately baling. The storm now appeared to lull a
+little and in a few minutes (about half-past five A.M.) it suddenly
+dropped. The men now looked out again and I could hear Ruston saying, "I
+believe we are now safe, Sir;" and I immediately ordered that two men
+should go off and relieve Mr. Smith and Mr. Walker. They evidently feared
+to make the attempt and said they could not swim, which was true as far
+as some of them were concerned. I then ordered successively three men who
+I knew could swim to take advantage of the lull and gain the boat: they
+all attempted it, but before they got clear of the reef their hearts
+failed them, and they declared they could not contend with the waves.
+
+RENEWAL OF THE STORM.
+
+Just as the last man had failed, the wind, which had hitherto been from
+the south-east, shifted instantaneously to the north-west. We all quailed
+or fell before it, for it came with sudden and indescribable violence;
+the boat appeared to hesitate for one moment, in the next she came
+dancing wildly in on the shore. The men reached her as well as they could
+and we dragged her up. The storm now became so violent that even Mr.
+Walker, who was a heavy man, was blown about by it like a child; there
+was not a tree on the island, but the bushes were stripped from the
+ground, and I found it impossible to keep my legs.
+
+The sea all this time kept rising, being heaped up by the wind against
+the shore, but whenever a momentary lull came we took advantage of it to
+drag the boat a little further up; indeed the sea gained on us so much
+that I had made up my mind it would sweep away the intervening sandhills
+and once more wash the face of the cliffs. In this case we should to a
+certainty have all perished.
+
+DISTRESS FOR WATER.
+
+At two P.M. the storm lulled considerably, and I immediately despatched
+men in all directions to collect water from holes in the rocks, and made
+the native and an old bushman try to light a fire; for those of us who
+had been all the night and morning in the pelting rain, with nothing but
+our shirts on, were benumbed and miserable from cold.
+
+March 1.
+
+The men who had gone out for water soon returned and reported that they
+had been able to find very little which was not brackish from the spray
+having dashed over the island; I therefore again reduced the allowance to
+one pint a day and proceeded to inspect damages. Yesterday we had started
+in good boats, with strong men, plenty of provisions, everything in the
+best order; today I found myself in a very different position, all the
+stores we had with us, with the exception of the salt provisions, were
+spoilt; our ammunition damaged; the chronometers down; and both boats so
+stoved and strained as to be quite beyond our powers of repairing them
+effectually. Moreover from want of water we were compelled to make for
+the main before we could return back to Bernier Island to recruit from
+our ample stores there.
+
+REPAIR OF THE BOATS.
+
+Nothing however could be done but to have the boats rendered as seaworthy
+as possible and, having given this order, the want the men experienced
+for water was the best guarantee that they would execute this task with
+the utmost diligence. As soon as I saw them at their work I started with
+a party in search of water whilst another party under Mr. Smith dug for
+it; and Mr. Walker superintended the rearrangement of the stores and the
+digging up the seaweed for the purpose of recovering lost articles. I
+returned just before nightfall from a vain search; Mr. Smith had been
+equally unsuccessful in his digging operations, and we thus had to lie
+down upon the sand parched with thirst, our only chance of forgetting our
+misfortunes being a few minutes sleep.
+
+THE BOATS NEARLY READY.
+
+March 2.
+
+The men continued working hard at the boats, and it appeared that their
+task would be concluded this day. I once more started to look for water
+and to examine the island; but our search was again unsuccessful. On
+measuring the distance that the sea had risen I found that it had spread
+up in the direction of our boats fifty-three yards above high water mark;
+but what will give a better idea of the hurricane is the circumstance of
+my catching a cormorant on the beach, about seven o'clock on the morning
+of the 1st, and during the height of the storm, the bird not even
+attempting to fly, being in appearance completely appalled at the
+violence of the wind. It was reported to me at night that another hour's
+work in the morning would render the boats fit for sea.
+
+Sunday March 3.
+
+The men had slept but little during the night for they were oppressed
+with thirst; and when I rose in the morning I saw evident symptoms of the
+coming of another roasting day. They were busy at the boats as soon as
+they could see to work, whilst Mr. Smith and myself ascended the cliffs
+to get a view towards the main. When I looked down upon the calm and
+glassy sea I could scarcely believe it was the same element which within
+so short a period had worked us such serious damage. To the north-east we
+could see the lofty white sandhills in Lyell's Range; to the eastward
+nothing was visible; yet this was the point to which I had determined to
+steer, for several reasons. In the first place, the land in that
+direction had never been visited; and secondly, I had found the shores of
+Dorre Island covered with great forest trees, which must have been washed
+across the bay, and which from their size could only have been brought
+out from the continent by some large and rapid stream, which we at this
+moment would gladly have seen as there was only about a pint and half of
+water per man left.
+
+SAIL FOR THE MAIN.
+
+When we returned to breakfast I found the boats nearly ready for sea, and
+about eleven o'clock they
+had been all hauled down, the stores stowed away, and everything made
+ready for launching, and off we went, not a little rejoiced at the
+prospect of soon having an abundant supply of that liquid on which our
+lives depended. There was scarcely any wind but that little was right aft
+so that between sailing and pulling we made about five knots an hour. The
+boats were however so heavily laden that the men found it very laborious
+work, for they were exposed to the rays of a burning sun and had nothing
+to drink but half a pint of water, which was all I could allow them.
+
+We however persevered from soon after eleven A.M. until five P.M., when
+the men began to get disheartened from seeing no signs whatever of land,
+and I ordered my boat's crew to knock off pulling for a little, and in
+Mr. Walker's boat, which was about a mile astern, they did the same. In
+twenty minutes time I made my crew again take to their oars, but the
+other boat did not in this instance follow our example, so that we kept
+dropping her rapidly astern. This was very annoying; but as I was anxious
+at all events to get a glimpse of the land before sundown we still pulled
+away, trusting that the other boat would soon follow in our wake.
+
+GROUND ON A SANDBANK.
+
+About half an hour before sunset we sighted the land: several low rounded
+hills were the first things seen; then what I conceived to be very lofty
+trees rose in sight, and almost at the same moment the boat grounded on a
+sandbank.
+
+EXTENSIVE SHALLOWS.
+
+I had observed this shoal several miles before we came to it and it
+appeared to extend as far as I could see both north and south, but, as I
+had no doubt that we should find sufficient water on it to enable us to
+cross, I had given it no attention. I now however on looking more
+carefully could perceive no limit to its extent in those directions and,
+as I thought I saw deep water immediately to the eastward of us, I
+ordered the men to jump out and track the boat over. This they did; but
+on coming to what appeared to be deep water we found it was only a
+continuation of the same sandbank, covered with seaweed, which gave the
+water a darker appearance. The men now alternately tracked or pulled the
+boat for about five miles over a continuation of the sandbank; a work
+very fatiguing to those who were already exhausted by several days'
+continuous exertion on a very short allowance of water in a tropical
+climate. It had now been for some time night, and we had taken a star for
+our guide which just before sunset I had seen rising over the main. I
+thought we had at last gained the shore, at least the boat was close to a
+dark line rising above the water which appeared like a wooded bank; two
+of the men now waded onwards to find out the best place for landing and
+to light a fire that the crew of the other boat might know where we were.
+I saw them to my surprise not ascend a wooded bank but disappear amongst
+the trees; and still through the silence of the night I heard the splash
+of men walking through water, and in a minute or two afterwards the cries
+and screams of innumerable startled waterfowl and curlews, who came
+flying in flocks from amongst the mangrove trees.
+
+FAIL IN MAKING THE LAND.
+
+The men returned and reported that there was no land or any sign of land
+hereabouts; that the mangroves were a belt of trees upon a sandbank and
+that the water deepened inside; that the tide evidently rose very high,
+from the tufts of seaweeds in the bushes; that it was then rapidly coming
+in (which was evident enough, for the boat was afloat) and that the other
+side of the mangrove bushes was an open sea.
+
+This was unpleasant intelligence. That it was untrue I felt assured; but
+one man, who certainly could not have seen more than a hundred yards
+ahead of him on so dark a night, spoke as confidently as if he had seen
+fifty miles, and this discouraged the others: so by way of keeping their
+minds occupied I got under weigh again and stood off a little to the
+southward in the hopes of falling in with the other boat. We cheered at
+intervals of a few minutes, and fired a gun, whereupon ensued a great
+screaming, whistling, and flapping of wings amongst the waterfowl, but no
+human voices were heard in reply.
+
+ANCHOR OFF MANGROVE CREEK FOR THE NIGHT.
+
+When we had gone as far to the southward as I thought prudent I stood out
+from the shore for about a mile so as to have a good peep in amongst the
+mangrove bushes in the morning for the other boat, and having dropped our
+anchor we laid down as we best could for the night; and, speculating upon
+what explanation the native wise men would give to their fellows of the
+unknown and novel sounds they had this night heard upon the coast, I soon
+fell asleep.
+
+
+CHAPTER 15. THE GASCOYNE RIVER.
+
+REACH AND ENTER A MANGROVE CREEK.
+
+March 4.
+
+Early in the morning I had a good lookout kept for the other boat, which
+I was very anxious to see in order that I might have a sufficiently
+numerous party for the purpose of landing and looking for water; as I
+always held it to be better, upon first appearing amongst natives who had
+never before seen Europeans, to show such strength as might impress them
+with a certainty that we were well able to resist any attack which they
+might naturally feel inclined to make on such strange and
+incomprehensible intruders as white men must necessarily appear to them.
+Soon after the sun rose we descried the other boat about three miles to
+the southward of us; and I despatched two men to wade along the flats and
+communicate with Mr. Walker: they were to direct him to get under weigh
+and to make the best of his course, either by tracking, pulling, or
+sailing, until he reached the point where I might land.
+
+The men whom I sent quickly made his boat, which I perceived moving
+slowly up the flats; and as soon as the men rejoined me we started. The
+wind was fair, being from the southward, and I wished to reach some
+gently elevated hills which I saw about eight miles to the north by east
+of our present position.
+
+SEARCH FOR AND COMPLETE OUR WATER.
+
+We soon came to a very promising opening which proved to be a creek, with
+a mouth of about two hundred yards wide, running up in a north-east
+direction, and having five fathoms of water inside, but with a bar
+entrance. When we had proceeded up it about two miles it became so narrow
+that there was not sufficient space left for the men to use their oars;
+therefore, making fast the two boats, I landed with a party to look for
+water.
+
+I stepped very gingerly and cautiously on the mud, for shore there was
+none; and I had the satisfaction of descending at once, mid-leg deep in
+the odious slime; but this being endured the worst was over, and, at the
+head of my sticking and floundering party, I waded on, putting to flight
+whole armies of crabs who had taken up their abode in these umbrageous
+groves, for such they certainly were. The life of a crab in these
+undisturbed solitudes must be sweet in the extreme; they have plenty of
+water, mud, and shade; their abodes are scarcely approachable by the feet
+of men, and they can have but little to disturb their monotonous
+existence save the turmoils of love and domestic war.
+
+After about two miles of wading of this description, which we
+considerably increased by turning and winding about to avoid soft places,
+we at length fairly stepped on terra firma and found ourselves at the
+base of some almost imperceptibly-sloping ground which gradually rose
+into low, red, sandy, loamy hills, thinly covered with grass, bushes, and
+stunted trees. Across these we bent our steps in a south-east direction,
+no change whatever taking place in the character of the country as far as
+we went or as far as we could see. But our travels in this line only
+extended for about three miles, when we suddenly came upon a lagoon of
+fresh water lying between two of the hills. All bent the knee at once, at
+this discovery, to plunge their faces deep in the pool, and, presently
+raising them up again, a black watery line, extending round the
+countenance, showed plainly how deeply each one had dipped.
+
+Mr. Smith and myself laughed heartily at our dirty-faced companions, who
+knelt on their hands and knees round the pool; and whilst they were
+filling the beakers with water we rested under the shade of the bush for
+a few minutes, and then walked off towards the interior; but from the
+undulating low nature of the ground our view was very limited, and as far
+as we could see there was no sign whatever of any change in the character
+of the country. On returning again to the party we found the beakers and
+men equally full of water and ready for a start to the boats.
+
+WADING THROUGH THE MUD.
+
+When we reached again the mangrove flats a most amusing scene commenced;
+wading through the mud was bad enough before, but now that each man had a
+heavy keg of water upon his shoulders the movements became truly
+ludicrous, more especially as both landsmen and sailors were equally out
+of their element. Each desperate plunge elicited from the sufferers oaths
+and expressions which only those who have seen sailors completely at a
+nonplus on shore can conceive. They were half humorous, half pathetic,
+and never did I see men more thoroughly woebegone and bedaubed with mud
+than the party when we made the boats again.
+
+Those whom I had left behind now greedily drank the water of which they
+were so much in want, and, as it was necessary to complete our stock of
+it here, after we had dined I despatched all hands but Mr. Smith and one
+man back to the lagoon. Mr. Smith was too unwell to go again and I
+remained with him. This party took their rations with them as they were
+to remain by the lagoon all night in order, as they termed it, "to have a
+good bouse out of water, and a good wash," and were to return to the
+boats as soon after daylight as possible.
+
+We had remarked tracks of natives on shore but, as I saw by their fires
+that they were now at least eight or ten miles from us, I was under no
+apprehension of an attack from them. The mosquitoes however threatened to
+be very troublesome, and when I say that just about sunset we were
+completely blackened from the numbers that covered us I do not in the
+least exaggerate; we could not make a fire to keep them away, and I
+therefore quietly resigned myself to my fate. Poor Smith, who was already
+very feverish, passed a night of perfect torment, and awoke in the
+morning seriously ill. We soon heard the voices of the party returning
+and, having helped them and their loads of water out of the mud, we
+returned down the creek.
+
+COAST THE LAND TO THE NORTHWARD.
+
+March 5.
+
+On standing out there was a fresh breeze blowing from the south-east, and
+when we were about half a mile from the shore the water to the northward
+deepened a great deal, for although it was now nearly low tide we had
+here two and a half fathoms with sandy bottom. All along the shoals we
+had met with abundance of shell and other fish, and the pearl oyster was
+very abundant; indeed the shellfish along these banks were more numerous
+and varied than I had ever before found them. I saw but few shells which
+I recognised as belonging to the southern portions of Australia, whilst
+many were identical with those which occur to the north-west.
+
+EXAMINE ANOTHER MANGROVE CREEK. CHARACTER OF THEIR SCENERY.
+
+There was no high land whatever in sight; but one low hill, which just
+appeared above the mangrove tops, bore north by east. After running
+north-east for about two miles with the same depth of water we came to
+another opening in the mangroves of a more promising character than
+several small ones which we had previously passed, and as, from the
+greater depth of the water, the extraordinary low character of the coast,
+and the circumstance of the driftwood upon Dorre Island, I expected to
+find a large river hereabouts, I determined to examine even the smallest
+openings most narrowly; we therefore ran straight for this one, and found
+that it had a shoal mouth with only four feet water at the entrance. The
+opening ran east 1/2 north, and after we had followed it up for about
+half a mile it became very narrow and shoaled to two feet, so we turned
+about and again pulled away to sea. This opening, as well as the first we
+had entered, appeared rather like a canal running through a woody grove
+than an arm of the sea; the mangrove trees afforded an agreeable shade,
+and were of the most brilliant green, whilst the blue placid water not
+only washed their roots but meandered through the sinuosities of the
+forest like a quiet lake till sight of it was lost in the distance.
+
+We now stood north-north-west parallel to the shore, which was fronted by
+mangroves; and here we again had only two and a half feet of water. A
+very low chain of hills extended parallel to the shore and about two
+miles behind the mangroves. We thus continued running along the coast
+until we made a large opening which was about three-quarters of a mile
+across at the mouth. On either side of the entrance was a sandy point,
+covered with pelicans and wild-fowl who seemed to view our approach with
+no slight degree of surprise. As yet we did not know the proper entrance
+to the river (for such it was) so that where we ran into it we had only
+two feet of water. Three low hills were immediately in front of us, and I
+afterwards ascertained that the proper course for entering was to steer
+so as to keep the centre of the opening and the middle hill in the same
+line.
+
+DISCOVER ONE MOUTH OF THE GASCOYNE RIVER, AND EXPLORE THE COUNTRY IN ITS
+VICINITY.
+
+The opening now widened into a very fine reach, out of which the water
+was running rapidly, and when we had ascended about a mile I saw large
+trees, or snags (as they are called by the Americans) sticking up in the
+bed of the river; as these trees were of a very large size, and evidently
+had come from a different country to the one we saw upon the river banks,
+I felt assured that we had now discovered a stream of magnitude, and, the
+eager expectations which these thoughts awoke in our breasts rendering us
+all impatient, we hauled down our sail and took to the oars. The bed of
+the river however became choked with shallows and sandbanks, and when we
+had ascended it about three miles, the water having shoaled to about six
+inches, I selected a suitable place for our encampment and prepared to
+start and explore the country on foot.
+
+SURVEY OF MOUTHS OF THIS RIVER AND BABBAGE ISLAND.
+
+As soon as all had been made snug I moved up the river with three men.
+Its banks were here about five feet high; the bed of white sand, and
+about half a mile across; the centre of the channel was full of salt
+water, and in breadth about a quarter of a mile. We had not proceeded
+more than a few hundred yards when we unexpectedly came upon another
+mouth of the river as large as that upon which we stood, and which ran
+off nearly west. The river itself appeared to come from the north-east,
+and we saw salt water still further up than where we were.
+
+NATIVES AND A SHARK.
+
+Just on the eastern bank of the stream was a clump of small trees and
+reeds which I walked up to examine with a desire to recognise any trees
+belonging to known species, but to my horror, on looking into the reeds,
+I saw what appeared to be a huge alligator fast asleep. The men now
+peeped at it and all agreed that it was an alligator. I therefore
+retreated to a respectful and suitable distance and let fly at it with a
+rifle; it gave, as we thought, a kind of shake, and then took no further
+notice of us. I therefore took a double-barrelled gun from one of the men
+and drove two balls through the beast, and now feeling sure it must be
+dead (for it never moved) I walked up to it, when, upon examination, it
+turned out to be a huge shark, of a totally new species, which had been
+left in some hole by the tide where the natives had found and killed it,
+and, being disturbed by our approach, had run away, first hiding it in
+this clump of reeds. There were two natives and they had made off right
+up the bed of the river, taking the precaution to step in one another's
+tracks so as to conceal if possible their number.
+
+CHARACTER OF THE RIVER.
+
+To those who have never seen a river similar to the one we were now upon
+it is difficult to convey a true idea of its character. It consisted of
+several channels or beds divided from each other by long strips of land,
+which, in times of flood, become islands; the main channel had an average
+breadth of about two hundred and seventy yards; the average height of the
+bank at the edge of it was about fifteen feet, and the bed of the river
+was composed of porous red sand apparently incapable of containing water
+unless when previously saturated with it. After passing the highest point
+reached by the sea this huge river bed was perfectly dry, and looked the
+most mournful, deserted spot imaginable. Occasionally we found in this
+bare sandy channel waterholes of eighteen or twenty feet in depth,
+surrounded with tea trees and vegetation, and the driftwood, washed high
+up into these trees, sufficiently attested what rapid currents sometimes
+swept along the now dry channel. Even the waterholes were nearly all
+dried up, and in the bottom of these the natives had scooped their little
+wells.
+
+The river channel ran up in a due north-east direction for about four
+miles without in the least altering its character. It was in vain that we
+walked over the intervening slips of land into the side channels; these
+in all respects except in being narrower exactly resembled the main one;
+and, after ranging across from bank to bank in this way, the only general
+conclusion I could arrive at was that the country upon the northern bank
+of the river appeared scrubby and covered with samphire swamps, whilst
+that upon its southern bank seemed rich and promising.
+
+EXPLORE THE COUNTRY INLAND TO THE NORTH OF THE RIVER.
+
+The river now made a sudden turn to the east by north, and we followed it
+in this direction for three miles and a half without finding the
+slightest change in its character or appearance. No high land whatever
+was in sight, and from a low rounded hill, which was the highest point we
+could see, the rise of the country towards the interior was scarcely
+perceptible; indeed it presented the appearance of being a vast delta;
+and such I then and subsequently conjectured it to be.
+
+During our walk up the bed of the river we had seen many cockatoos, some
+wildfowl, and numerous tracks of natives; these all appeared to me to be
+indications of a well watered and fertile tract of country.
+
+I now turned off west by south, quitting the bed of the river, which I
+named the Gascoyne in compliment to my friend, Captain Gascoyne, and
+found that we were in a very fertile district, being one of those
+splendid exceptions to the general sterility of Australia which are only
+occasionally met with: it apparently was one immense delta of alluvial
+soil covered with gently sloping grassy rises, for they could scarcely be
+called hills; and in the valleys between these lay many freshwater
+lagoons which rested upon a red clay soil that tinged the water of its
+own colour and gave it an earthy taste.
+
+The country here was but very lightly timbered and well adapted for
+either agricultural or pastoral purposes, but especially for the growth
+of cotton and sugar, should the climate be sufficiently warm; and of this
+I think there can be no doubt whatever. I was so won by the discovery of
+this rich district that I wandered on unconscious of the fatigue of the
+party, roaming from rising ground to rising ground, and hoping from each
+eminence to gain a view of high land to the eastward, but on all sides I
+could see nothing but the same low fertile country. I however felt
+conscious that within a few years of the moment at which I stood there a
+British population, rich in civilization and the means of transforming an
+unoccupied country to one teeming with inhabitants and produce, would
+have followed my steps and be eagerly and anxiously examining my charts;
+and this reflection imparted a high degree of interest and importance to
+our present position and operations.
+
+RETURN TO THE RIVER.
+
+The darkness of night was now closing round us and Kaiber the native,
+with his long thin legs, put himself at the head of the party and, taking
+a star for his guide, led us with rapid and lengthy paces across the
+plains to the encampment, where we found the party anxiously waiting to
+hear what success we had met with. Poor Mr. Smith was very unwell tonight
+with a feverish attack. Mr. Walker had prescribed for him and ordered him
+to be kept quiet. I got a meridian altitude of Procyon which put us in 24
+degrees 56 minutes 57 seconds south latitude.
+
+March 6.
+
+Mr. Smith was if anything worse this morning, and I learned from some of
+the men that he had been wandering about all night, and had bathed
+several times in the river. I remonstrated with him about having done so,
+but he excused himself, and I determined to remain stationary at this
+point for a day or two to give him plenty of rest before we again started
+on our cruise along the coast.
+
+PLAN OF FUTURE PROCEEDINGS.
+
+After the discovery of the Gascoyne the plan I made up my mind to follow
+was to examine rapidly the coast as far as Cape Cuvier, to return from
+that point to Bernier Island and refit; then once more to visit the
+Gascoyne properly equipped, and thoroughly explore the adjacent district
+to the distance of fifty or sixty miles inland; and lastly to examine the
+unknown portion of Shark Bay which lay to the southward of us.
+
+At 6 A.M. the thermometer stood at 76 degrees Fahrenheit in the shade,
+and this and the temperature during our stay in Shark Bay proves that the
+climate there is very warm. Before breakfast I had wells sunk in several
+places at some little distance inland in order to ascertain the nature of
+the subsoil, for we were abundantly supplied with water from the lagoons.
+In every instance, after digging down to the depth of from six to seven
+feet through a rich loam, we reached a regular sandy sea beach and salt
+water (it must however be recollected that we dug in the deepest hollows)
+so that it appeared as if the whole of this flat country was a formation
+left upon the shoals with which the coast is bounded; and it almost
+seemed as if the sea still flowed in upon its old bed and under this
+recent freshwater deposit.
+
+Directly after breakfast I got ferried across the river to the island
+lying between its two mouths, which I called Babbage Island after C.
+Babbage, Esquire. This island is low and sandy in all parts except where
+it fronts the sea; but on that side a row of high sandy dunes have been
+thrown up. There is no very good land on it, it being almost covered with
+samphire swamps and intersected by deep channels into which the sea runs;
+these are nearly concealed in some places by the vegetation, which
+rendered it impossible to avoid sundry falls and wettings in crossing it.
+It bears a few mangroves but I saw no other trees.
+
+The men throughout the day were occupied in watering and in making canvas
+cloths for my boats to prevent the water from pouring in over the
+gunwales, which were very low; and my own time was sufficiently occupied
+in surveying. On my return in the evening I found Mr. Smith so much wore
+cheerful and so much better that I determined to start about noon the
+next day for the northward.
+
+EXCURSION TO THE NORTH OF THE RIVER.
+
+March 7.
+
+I went off with a party before dawn to explore the country to the
+northward of the Gascoyne. We crossed the river just above the point
+where it separates into two mouths, and then struck off in a north by
+east direction. Travelling about a mile after we had crossed the river we
+came to seven native huts, built of large-sized logs, much higher and
+altogether of a very superior description to those made by the natives on
+the south-western coast. Kaiber examined them very carefully and then
+proposed that we should go no farther, as he thought that the natives
+must be very large men from their having such large huts. We however
+pushed forward and, as I had none but good walkers with me, we made about
+nine miles in two hours and a half: throughout the whole of this distance
+we saw nothing that could be called a hill, the whole country being
+evidently at times flooded up to the foot of a gently-rising land which
+we distinguished to the eastward. We did not notice a single tree but
+plenty of low prickly bushes, samphire, and a small plant somewhat
+resembling the English heath. The weather was very hot, and at the end of
+the nine miles we reached a saltwater inlet so broad and deep that we
+could not cross it. We here halted and rested a little and then made our
+way back to the boats.
+
+APPROACH OF NATIVES.
+
+I found Mr. Smith much better and, there being now nothing to delay us,
+we started. When we had got about half a mile down the river we saw two
+natives following us along the shore, jumping about in the most
+extraordinary way, and, from their gesticulations and manner, evidently
+ordering us to quit the coast. From the mountebank actions of these
+fellows I guessed that they were two of the native sorcerers, who were
+charming us away but, as I was not disposed to be so easily got rid of,
+we pulled near the shore and lay upon our oars to give them an
+opportunity of coming up to us.
+
+ATTEMPT AT A CONFERENCE. INTERVIEW WITH NATIVES.
+
+Upon this they mounted a little eminence, blew most furiously at us, and
+performed other equally efficacious ceremonies. I however felt just as
+well after we had been subjected to this dire sorcery as I did before;
+and we continued to pull gently along the shore, still trying to induce
+them to approach, which they at last did, having nothing but a
+fishing-spear in their hands. To entice them towards us I had made Kaiber
+strip himself and stand up in the boat; and now that they were near
+enough to us I told him to call out to them and say that we were friends.
+He hereupon shouted out, "Come in, come in; Mr. Grey sulky yu-a-da;" by
+which he intended to say, "Come here, come here; Mr. Grey is not angry
+with you." The two sorcerers, utterly confused by this mode of address,
+committed more overt acts of witchcraft towards us than they had even
+hitherto done; and Kaiber, turning round to me, said, "Weak ears have
+they and wooden foreheads; they do not understand the southern language."
+But as I was dissatisfied with his proof of their knowledge of the
+southern language I desired him to wade ashore and speak to them.
+
+KAIBER'S DREAD OF THEM.
+
+This order of mine was a perfect thunderbolt to Kaiber. He, in common
+with all the aboriginal inhabitants of Australia, had an utter aversion
+to all strange natives; and to this he joined a sort of religious horror
+of witches, buck-witches, warlocks, and uncanny persons generally. King
+James the First could never have found a more zealous and participating
+partner of his fears than Kaiber; he gave me a blank look of horror and
+assured me that these were actual sorcerers, "northern sorcerers;" and as
+he repeated these last words there was a mysterious, deep meaning in his
+tone, as if he expected to see me thrill with terror.
+
+From his earliest infancy he had been accustomed to dread these men;
+every storm that occurred he had been taught to consider as arising from
+their incantations: if one of his friends or relatives died a natural
+death he had attributed that death to the spells and unholy practices of
+these very people with whom he was now directed to go and hold converse.
+I thought of all this and pitied him; for even for a native he was
+excessively superstitious. But I was extremely anxious to establish
+friendly relations with them; therefore I was positive and repeated to
+him my former directions that he should wade ashore, coax them up, and
+speak to them.
+
+In as far as a native can turn white from fear Kaiber did turn white, and
+then stepping into the water he waded ashore and the two natives
+cautiously approached him. As soon as they were close to him I joined the
+party with a large piece of damper in one hand and a piece of pork in the
+other. The natives were dreadfully frightened; they stood in the presence
+of unknown and mysterious beings. No persuasions could induce them to
+take my hand or to touch me; and they trembled from head to foot.
+
+FRIENDLY COMMUNICATION ESTABLISHED.
+
+For a time they were nearly unintelligible to Kaiber and myself, but as
+they gained confidence I found that they spoke a dialect very closely
+resembling that of the natives to the north of the Swan River. They
+addressed many questions to us, such as, Whence we had come? where we
+were going to? was the boat a dead tree? but they evaded giving any
+direct answers to our questions. Being anxious to start I now left them
+to bear to their companions the strange food I had bestowed, and to
+recount to eager listeners the mysterious tale of their interview with
+beings from another world, and who were of an unknown form and colour.
+
+SAIL FROM THE GASCOYNE.
+
+Whilst they hurried off with some such thoughts passing through their
+minds we pulled down the Gascoyne in search of new lands and new
+adventures.
+
+AFFINITY OF DIALECTS.
+
+The result of this conference affords an example of the grounds upon
+which any similarity of the language in different portions of the
+continent of Australia has been denied. In this instance, had I at first
+taken the word of Kaiber for it, I should have left the Gascoyne with a
+firm conviction that the natives of that part of Australia spoke a
+radically different language from the natives near the Swan River; and
+this would have been proved by the fact of a native from the south not
+understanding them: whereas there is a great affinity between the two
+dialects, to discover which requires however an acquaintance with the
+general principles of language, some knowledge of the one in question,
+and due patience. I can only say that wherever I have been in the
+southern portions of the continent I could soon understand the natives.
+
+
+CHAPTER 16. TO KOLAINA AND BACK TO THE GASCOYNE.
+
+EXAMINE THE COAST TO THE NORTH OF THE GASCOYNE.
+
+March 7.
+
+When we got outside the mouth of the Gascoyne a fresh breeze was blowing
+from the south-east. We ran along the shore west by north, keeping about
+a quarter of a mile from it; and after having made about three miles and
+a half we reached the southern extremity of the other mouth of the river.
+The mean depth in our course along Babbage Island had been from two and a
+half fathoms to three fathoms; and this opening had a bar which we then
+conceived to run right across the mouth of the river. The northern
+extremity of Babbage Island is a very remarkable low point of land which
+I called Mangrove Point. It cannot fail to be recognised for it is the
+first point from the northward along the eastern shores of Shark Bay
+where mangroves are found, and from that point they extend almost
+uninterruptedly down the eastern coast of this bay to the south, as far
+as I have seen it.
+
+CONTINUE THE COURSE TO THE NORTHWARD.
+
+The coast now trended north by west and we continued to run along it.
+After passing Mangrove Point the sandy dunes along the shore ceased, and
+the land appeared to be scarcely elevated above the level of the sea: not
+a hill or tree could be perceived, and a low black line almost level with
+the water's edge was the only indication that we had of being near land.
+
+LYELL'S RANGE.
+
+This kind of shore continues for about nine miles, when low sandhills
+begin to rise parallel to the coast, and these gradually increase in
+altitude until they form that remarkable range of dunes which I have
+called Lyell's Range. When it wanted about an hour to sunset we had made
+about twenty-five miles, and then ran in closer along the coast to look
+either for a boat harbour or some spot at which we could beach them. But
+nothing suited to our purpose could we see: the coast was straight,
+sandy, exposed and lashed by a tremendous surf; the wind now freshened
+considerably and the sky looked very threatening; we had therefore no
+resource left but either to run to the northward before the breeze or to
+beach the boats. I chose the first alternative; and we coasted within
+about a quarter of a mile of the shore, just outside the surf, looking
+out for any spot which gave us the least hope of beaching in safety.
+
+BEACH THE BOATS.
+
+As the sun sank so freshened the breeze, until it blew a good half gale
+of wind, and everything gave indications of approaching foul weather.
+This was no coast to be on during a stormy night in heavily laden
+whale-boats; and as it now began to grow dark I determined at all hazards
+to beach rather than be driven out to sea in a gale of wind. I
+accordingly ran my boat in through the surf, leaving the other one
+outside to see what success we had before they made the attempt.
+
+BOAT SWAMPED IN BEACHING.
+
+The surf was very heavy but the men behaved steadily and well; and
+through it we went, dancing along like a cork in a mill-pond; at last one
+huge roller caught us, all hands gave way, and we were hurried along on
+the top of the swelling billow, which then suddenly fell under us and
+broke; in a moment after we had grounded, and although still upwards of
+two hundred yards from the shore, we all jumped out to haul the boat up,
+but ere we could move our heavily laden whaler beyond a few yards breaker
+after breaker came tumbling in and completely swamped it. We continued to
+haul away and presently found ourselves swimming. In fact the whole coast
+hereabouts was fronted by a kind of bar of sand, distant about two
+hundred yards from the shore, with not more than two feet water on it.
+Between this and the shore the water was tolerably smooth and two fathoms
+deep. It was upon this outer bar that we had struck, and the other boat
+experienced the same fate as ourselves. We of course passed a miserable
+night in our drenched and wretched state; but it was at all events some
+comfort, when we heard during the night the boisterous wind blowing
+outside, to feel that we were safe ashore.
+
+DAMAGE TO OUR PROVISIONS.
+
+March 8.
+
+As soon as we had sufficient light for the purpose I proceeded to examine
+the stores. The flour was not very good at starting; it had been packed
+in small bags, that being the most convenient form to have it in both for
+stowing and transporting it on men's shoulders; and in the hurricane
+which we had experienced on Dorre Island this flour had got thoroughly
+soaked: from that period to the present time it had been constantly wet
+with salt water; last night's adventures completed its disasters and it
+was now quite spoilt and an unwholesome article of food; but having
+nothing else to eat we were forced to satisfy ourselves with it, and I
+directed it to be dried in the sun and then carefully repacked. The wind
+was from the south-south-west, about half a gale, and there was such a
+tremendous surf on the shore that to launch the boats was impossible. I
+therefore started to look for water and to explore the country.
+
+SEARCH FOR WATER.
+
+The point we had landed at was immediately at the base of some bare
+sandhills, about four hundred feet high. These are the hills which are
+visible from the high land of Dorre Island on the opposite side of the
+bay: it struck me that from their great height and their porous nature
+there was a probability of our finding water by digging, even in this
+apparently sandy desert; I therefore selected a spot at the foot of the
+highest hill, in the bare sand, and ordered a well to be opened. Our
+efforts were crowned with success; the well had not been sunk more than
+four or five feet when we came to a coarse gravelly sand, saturated with
+water, which was perfectly sweet and good; and when the well was sunk
+about two or three feet deeper the water poured in so fast that there
+would have been no difficulty in watering a ship at this point.
+
+APPEARANCE OF A LAKE. EXAMINATION OF IT.
+
+Whilst the men were engaged in filling the water kegs I ascended the
+highest sandhill, the summit of which was not distant more than a mile
+from the well. When I gained this a most splendid sight burst upon my
+view: to the westward stretched the boundless sea, lashed by the wind
+into white and curling waves; whilst to the east of me lay a clear calm
+unruffled lake, studded with little islands. To the north or north-east I
+could, even with a good telescope, see no limits to this lake, and, with
+the exception of the numerous beautiful islands with which it was
+studded, I could, even from the commanding position which I occupied,
+distinguish nothing like rising land anywhere between north by east and
+south-east. The lake had a glassy and fairy-like appearance, and I sat
+down alone on the lofty eminence to contemplate this great water which
+the eye of European now for the first time rested on. I looked seaward,
+and it appeared as if nature had heaped up the narrow and lofty sandy
+barrier on which I stood to shut out from the eyes of man the lovely and
+fairy-like land which lay beyond it.
+
+At length I rose and returned to the party. The news of my discovery
+filled all with hope; and, our miserable breakfast having been hurriedly
+despatched, I selected three men to accompany me in my first examination
+of the shores of this inland sea. When we had gained the top of the
+sandhills the surprise of these men was as great as my own, and they
+begged me to allow them to return and endeavour by the united efforts of
+the party to carry one of the whale-boats over the intervening range, and
+at once to launch it on this body of water.
+
+I however deemed it more prudent in the first instance to select the best
+route along which to move the whale-boat, as well as to choose a spot
+which afforded facilities for launching it. In pursuance of this
+determination we descended the eastern side of the sandhills which
+abruptly fell in that direction with a slope certainly not much exceeding
+an angle of 45 degrees. I now found that the water did not approach so
+near the foot of the hills as I had imagined, but that immediately at
+their base lay extensive plains of mud and sand, at times evidently
+flooded by the sea; for on them lay dead shells of many kinds and sizes,
+as well as large travelled blocks of coral. The water here appeared to be
+about a mile distant; it was also apparently boundless in an east and
+north-east direction: and was studded with islands.
+
+REMARKABLE PLAINS. DELUSION FROM MIRAGE.
+
+We still all felt convinced that it was water we saw, for the shadows of
+the low hills near it, as well as those of the trees upon them, could be
+distinctly traced on the unruffled surface. As we continued to advance,
+the water however constantly retreated before us and at last surrounded
+us. I now found that we had been deceived by mirage; the apparent islands
+being really such only when these plains are covered by the sea. In many
+places the sandy mud was so moist that we sank deeply into it, and after
+travelling for fifteen miles on a north-east course I could still see no
+limit to these plains in that direction, nor could I either then or on
+any subsequent occasion find the channel which connected them with the
+sea. The only mode of accounting for their being flooded is to suppose
+that the sea at times pours in over the low land which lies to the north
+of the Gascoyne, and flows northward through channels which will be seen
+in the chart of this part of the country; but I then believed, and still
+consider, that there is hereabouts a communication with some large
+internal water.
+
+We saw no tracks of natives and only a few of emus and native dogs. The
+few portions of rising ground which lay near the edge of these extensive
+plains were sandy, scrubby, and unpromising; but what we saw was so
+little that no opinion of the country could fairly be deduced from it. We
+dug in several places on the flats and in their vicinity but all the
+water we could find was salt; whereas in the narrow range of sandhills
+separating them from the sea we had discovered abundance of fresh water
+only four or five feet below the surface of the valleys lying between
+these hills. As this range of more than thirty miles in length offered
+many geological phenomena I called it Lyell's Range in compliment to the
+distinguished geologist of that name; the plains themselves I named the
+Plains of Kolaina (Deceit).
+
+INDISPOSITION OF SEVERAL OF THE PARTY. SICKNESS FROM DELAY AND
+DISAPPOINTMENT.
+
+On my return to the boats I found that Mr. Smith was still unwell;
+several other men were also complaining; I myself was wearied from
+exertion and disappointment that my great discovery had dwindled away:
+the place where we were was infested by land-crabs who kept running over
+us continually, and the sand which drifted before the wind got into the
+pores of the skin, and kept most of us in a constant state of painful
+irritation. The night was therefore not a pleasant one.
+
+March 9.
+
+Throughout the night the winds had howled loudly and the surf broke
+hoarsely upon the shore. The grey dawn of morning brought no comfort with
+it: far out to seaward nothing but broken water could be seen, and half a
+gale of wind blew from the south by east. The bad and insufficient food I
+had been compelled to eat had brought on violent sickness and other evil
+effects, and I found myself very ill. As the daylight advanced report
+after report came to me that some one of the party had been attacked by
+the same diseases experienced by Mr. Smith and myself.
+
+EXAMINATION OF THE SHORE TO THE NORTHWARD, AND OF THE COUNTRY TO THE
+SOUTH-EAST.
+
+I was only well enough to write and survey a little, but I sent off a
+party to a point which lay about six miles to the north of us, and they
+on their return reported that there was a continuation of a similar shore
+for the next fourteen or fifteen miles, bordered in like manner by sandy
+muddy plains similar to those behind the hills where we were.
+
+This party found one of the yellow and black water-snakes asleep upon a
+piece of dry seaweed on the beach and killed it. The fact of this animal
+being found on shore proves its amphibious character. I saw them in one
+instance, in December 1837, so far out at sea as to be distant 150 miles
+from land.
+
+Sunday March 10.
+
+I spent a wretched night from illness and foul weather; the roaring of
+the surf on the shore was so loud and incessant that to one feverish and
+in want of quiet and rest it was a positive distress, and both Mr. Smith,
+myself, and half the men were at this time seriously indisposed. We had
+strong gales of wind all day from south by east, but in the afternoon I
+walked out for five miles in an east-south-east direction with such of
+the men as were able to move; nothing however could be seen but a
+continuation of the same barren, treeless country; we observed no signs
+of natives except tracks in the mud of a single man who had passed some
+months ago.
+
+It annoyed me now to find that the silvering of the glasses of my large
+sextant was so much injured from the constant wettings it had experienced
+that this day it was almost useless. I had hoped in the course of our
+walk to have fallen in with some game, but we did not see a single bird
+with the exception of some small ones, about the size of tomtits, which
+flew from bush to bush along the sandhills.
+
+SUFFERINGS FROM HEAT AND PRIVATION.
+
+We had a small quantity of portable soup with us, nearly all of which we
+used, and it in some degree restored us, but another miserable night was
+passed by us all and in the morning I was grieved to see how ill many of
+the men looked. Their situation was really deplorable and I had with me
+neither medicines nor proper food to give them. Abundance of these lay at
+our depot not more than forty miles from us, yet to reach it was
+impossible; and dawn this morning had only revealed to us a heavier surf
+and stronger gale from the southward than we had yet experienced. None of
+the men were well enough to undergo the fatigue of another day's walking,
+so I busied myself with making observations and taking bearings, and thus
+the forenoon wore away. The point of the coast on which we were lay in 24
+degrees 30 minutes south latitude, and the mean temperature up to this
+period had been:
+
+6 A.M. 76.
+12 M. 83.
+3 P.M. 87.
+6 P.M. 78 degrees.
+
+At noon a portion of some disgusting damper and a small piece of pork was
+served out to each of us and, having soon disposed of this, the men lay
+down under the side of the boats, seeking some shelter from the burning
+rays of a tropical sun which, being reflected back from the white sand,
+were very oppressive.
+
+AFFRAY WITH THE NATIVES.
+
+I was occupied in sketching in a portion of the coastline, and whilst
+thus engaged I thought I saw the figures of two natives moving upon a
+hill a few hundred yards to the north of us; they appeared to me to be
+behind some low bushes which were close to the summit of this hill. I
+watched the bushes narrowly and felt nearly confident I saw them; but
+however to be sure beyond a doubt I got up and took my eyes from the spot
+for a few seconds whilst I walked to get my telescope. I then carefully
+examined the hill with the glass and could see nothing but the low bushes
+on it. "A pretty bushman I am," I thought to myself, "to be thus deceived
+with two old shrubs; I should have known a native better;" and with a
+feeling almost of annoyance at my mistake I resumed my seat on an
+inverted water-keg and went on with my drawing. Within a minute's time an
+alarm of natives was given, and starting up I saw from twenty to thirty
+on some sandhills to the north of us, distant about two hundred yards;
+their spears were fixed in their throwing-sticks and they evidently were
+prepared for a fray. I therefore ran to the boat for my gun, which Ruston
+tried to get out for me; and at this moment, on casting my eyes upwards,
+I saw a native start up on the sandbank not more than fifteen yards from
+Ruston and myself; he poised his spear for one second, and it then came
+whistling at us. I dodged and the spear flew past without my seeing what
+became of it. I instantly gave the order to watch the bank and to fire at
+anything that showed itself above it; and Mr. Walker now had got hold of
+his gun and very gallantly ran up the bank and occupied it: in the
+meantime the native who had thrown the spear caught up a bag in each hand
+and ran off. Several shots which were fired at the distant natives
+scraped up the sand so near them that they found it prudent to decamp as
+speedily as they could.
+
+CHASE AFTER STOLEN GOODS.
+
+I found that Ruston was wounded slightly in the knee by the spear which
+the native had thrown, and we had also sustained a severe loss in the
+bags which they had carried off as one of them contained fourteen
+fishing-lines and several other articles of great value to us in our
+present position. I therefore determined upon a pursuit in the hopes of
+recovering these, and taking four or five men I gave chase. The
+long-legged natives had however considerably the advantage of us both in
+bottom, wind, and cunning; and whenever they found we gained at all upon
+them they strewed a few articles out of the bags upon the ground, and
+these it took us some time to collect; and in this manner, alternately
+running and stopping to pick things up, I continued the pursuit until
+near sunset. At this time three of us had completely outrun the rest of
+our party, who were far behind; the natives had also latterly made great
+headway, so that they were rapidly dropping us astern; we also had
+recovered everything but the fishing-lines (which however we could but
+ill spare). I therefore determined to collect my forces and return to the
+boats. In the ardour of pursuit I found we had come five or six miles,
+and it had been for some time dark when we again reached the encampment.
+
+The natives in this attack were far too few in number to render it a very
+formidable affair for from five-and-twenty to thirty savages, armed alone
+with spears, could have availed very little against eleven resolute
+Europeans with fire-arms in their hands. The native who had stolen so
+near us was however most decidedly a noble and daring fellow: their
+object evidently was to possess themselves of our property; and we had
+had one man wounded in the fray, and had lost some fishing-lines, without
+gaining any reparation. I therefore felt well assured that they would pay
+us another visit; and thus, to the misfortunes we were already suffering
+under, we had the new one added of being on hostile terms with the
+surrounding aborigines. It moreover set in to rain hard and to blow
+fresher than ever just as we reached the boats. I saw that all that could
+be done for Ruston had been attended to, and then, lying down, tried to
+forget my troubles in sleep.
+
+CONTINUED DETENTION FROM FOUL WEATHER. DESOLATE AND GLOOMY SITUATION.
+
+From this period up to Friday the 15th of March the wind blew strong from
+the southward, accompanied with such a heavy sea and tremendous surf that
+to move was impossible. Our position was very trying; inactivity, under
+the circumstances in which we were situated, was most difficult to
+support; for the mind, ever prone to prey upon itself, does so far more
+when you are compelled to sit down and patiently submit to misfortunes
+against which there are no means of resistance. Such was the state to
+which we were now reduced, on a barren and unknown coast which the foot
+of civilized man had never before trodden: many of my party were
+suffering acute bodily pain from the badness of the provisions on which
+they were compelled to subsist; the weakness of most of them, and myself
+amongst the number, precluded the possibility of any distant explorations
+being made, and we were kept in a constant state of watchfulness in order
+to prevent the natives from again surprising us; for they repeatedly
+showed themselves in our vicinity, hovering about with no friendly
+intentions. All that was left therefore for us was to sit upon the lonely
+beach, watching the winds and the waters until some favourable moment
+might enable us to get off and once more engage in that task of which so
+small a portion was as yet accomplished.
+
+Day after day did we sit and wait for this favourable moment until the
+noise of the hoarse breaking surf had become a familiar sound to our
+ears; but the longer the men watched the more dispirited did they become;
+each returning day found them more weak and wan, more gloomy and
+petulant, than the preceding one; and when the eighth day of constant and
+fruitless expectation slowly closed upon us I felt a gloomy foreboding
+creeping over me.
+
+By making observations, drawing, writing up my journal, etc. I had
+managed hitherto to keep my mind employed. I had also tasked my ability
+to the utmost to constantly invent some occupation for the men, but my
+resources of this nature were now all exhausted; and on Friday night I
+stretched myself on the sand, not to sleep, but to brood, throughout the
+weary night, on our present position.
+
+CONSOLATIONS OF RELIGION.
+
+It may be asked if, during such a trying period, I did not seek from
+religion that consolation which it is sure to afford? My answer is, Yes;
+and I farther feel assured that, but for the support I derived from
+prayer and frequent perusal and meditation of the Scriptures, I should
+never have been able to have borne myself in such a manner as to have
+maintained discipline and confidence amongst the rest of the party: nor
+in all my sufferings did I ever lose the consolation derived from a firm
+reliance upon the goodness of Providence. It is only those who go forth
+into perils and dangers, amidst which human foresight and strength can
+but little avail, and who find themselves, day after day, protected by an
+unseen influence, and ever and again snatched from the very jaws of
+destruction by a power which is not of this world, who can at all
+estimate the knowledge of one's own weakness and littleness, and the firm
+reliance and trust upon the goodness of the Creator which the human
+breast is capable of feeling. Like all other lessons which are of great
+and lasting benefit to man this one must be learnt amid much sorrowing
+and woe; but, having learnt it, it is but the sweeter from the pain and
+toil which are undergone in the acquisition.
+
+PUT TO SEA.
+
+March 16.
+
+A great portion of Friday night was passed by me in walking up and down
+the beach, anxiously looking out seaward; and it appeared to me about
+three o'clock that the wind had much abated; from this period until dawn
+it continued gradually to subside: and as daylight stole in I saw that
+the surf had somewhat fallen. I resolved at all events to lose no single
+chance that offered itself in our favour, so I turned all hands out, and
+in a few minutes the boats rode triumphantly beyond the surf, which was
+indeed much heavier than I expected to have found it, and my boat was
+nearly filled in passing the outer bar: but now the surf was behind us,
+and it is the nature of man to laugh at perils that are past. Our
+thoughts too were soon called to present difficulties, for a tremendous
+sea was running outside, the wind directly in our teeth, and every moment
+freshening again. Throughout the whole of Saturday the men toiled
+incessantly at their oars, and when it wanted about an hour to sunset we
+had only made about seven miles and a half of southing.
+
+COMPELLED AGAIN TO BEACH THE BOATS.
+
+The wind had again increased to such a degree as to endanger our safety,
+and it appeared to freshen as the night came on. I therefore had no
+resource left but again to beach the boats on this dangerous coast. Once
+more, then, was the scene repeated of dancing in a boat with maddening
+speed upon furious rollers, until these break and it is borne in,
+followed by a mass of foam far higher than the stern, which appears
+eagerly to pursue for the purpose of engulfing it.
+
+BEACHING BOATS.
+
+There is no scene in nature more exciting or which in a greater degree
+calls forth one's energy than the beaching of a boat in a dangerous surf.
+Never did I on such occasions take the steer-oar for the purpose of
+running the boat in but many contending feelings rushed through my mind,
+and after a few moments settled down into the calm which springs from the
+conviction that the general safety in coming dangers depends altogether
+upon the coolness and resolution with which they are met, and never more
+so than in beaching a boat when once you are among the foaming waters; in
+you must go; to retreat is impossible, and nothing is left but that each
+one silently and steadily do his duty, regardless of the strife and din
+of raging waves around. The only plan to adopt is for all to give way
+strongly and steadily, let what will take place, whilst the boat-steerer
+keeps her head straight for the beach. A huge roller breaks right into
+the boat and almost swamps it, a man is knocked over and loses his oar,
+heed not these things; let each man mind his own oar and nought else, and
+give way give way strongly, until the boat grounds, then in a moment each
+quits his oar and springs into the water, and ere the wave has retired
+the boat is partially run up; another wave succeeds, and the operation of
+running up is repeated until she is high and dry. Had our boats been
+swamped in the surf, even if we had escaped with our lives, our position
+would have been fearful; left without food or resources in an unknown and
+savage country so far beyond the reach of man's assistance. When
+therefore I again saw the boats safely beached, and my little party
+drying themselves over a fire, my breast filled with thankfulness to that
+Providence who had again watched over our safety.
+
+ADJACENT COUNTRY EXPLORED.
+
+Sunday March 17.
+
+It blew half a gale of wind from the southward all night, and next
+morning such a surf was breaking upon the beach that to have attempted to
+move would have been madness. Here we were therefore once more kept
+prisoners upon this dreary coast; the country was exactly similar to that
+lying immediately to the north of it, with these two exceptions, that the
+range of sandhills was less elevated, and that we could not here find
+fresh water. The morning was passed in searching for it; in the middle of
+the day I read a few appropriate chapters in the Bible to the men, and in
+the afternoon I explored the country but discovered nothing whatever of
+an interesting nature.
+
+LAUNCH THE BOATS, AND ENTER NORTHERN MOUTH OF THE GASCOYNE. CHARACTER OF
+THE COUNTRY.
+
+March 18.
+
+The wind was much lighter this morning and the surf not so heavy; we made
+a successful attempt to launch the boats just before sunrise. The wind
+still blew from the southward, and we found a heavy sea running outside.
+The men however exerted all their energies and just before sunset we
+reached the northern mouth of the Gascoyne, and found a very good passage
+into it with twelve feet water at low ebb-tide; but the other boat, not
+following our track, stuck fast on a sandbank, where she was soon left
+high and dry, and the tide fell so fast that we had a great deal of
+trouble in getting her afloat again.
+
+BABBAGE ISLAND.
+
+The bar once passed there are three and three and a half fathoms in this
+land-locked creek even at low water; the portion of Babbage Island which
+is between it and the sea appears to be nothing but a shifting bed of
+sand, and the mainland a delta, covered with mangrove swamps and brackish
+lagoons, at least for about a mile back.* We lay down upon the sand close
+to the boats, which were left at anchor with a boat-keeper in each, and
+found great difficulty in collecting driftwood enough to make our fires.
+
+(*Footnote. In the year 1667 the Dutch Commodore Vlaming appears to have
+visited these coasts and to have ascended a river which might have been
+the Gascoyne. The account of his exploration is thus briefly given by
+Flinders (Terra Australis volume 1 Introduction page 61) After relating
+the arrival of his two ships off Cape Inscription at the north end of
+Dirk Hartog's Island he proceeds:
+
+No mention is made by Valentyn of the ships entering the road, nor of
+their departure from it; but it should seem that they anchored on
+February 4th. On the 5th Commodore Vlaming and the commander of the
+Nyptang went with three boats to the shore, which proved to be an island.
+They found also a river, and went up it four or five leagues, amongst
+rocks and shoals, when they saw much water inland, as if the country were
+drowned, but no men, nor anything for food, and wherever they dug the
+ground was salt. They afterwards came to another river, which they
+ascended about a league, and found it to terminate in a round basin, and
+to be entirely salt water. No men were seen, nor any animals, except
+divers, which were very shy; and the country was destitute of grass and
+trees. Returning downward on the 10th, they saw footsteps of men and
+children of the common size, and observed the point of entrance into the
+river to be a very red sand.)
+
+March 19.
+
+The wind still blew pretty fresh from the southward; we however had no
+surf to impede us and therefore got under weigh soon after dawn. The men
+pulled away cheerfully and, although this was very hard work on account
+of the headwind and sea, we experienced no great difficulty until we had
+rounded Point Whitmore, at the north of Babbage Island, where we all at
+once found ourselves in broken water, so very shoal that between each
+breaker the boat was bumped with great violence against the bottom, and
+must have been very soon stove in had we not speedily got into deeper
+soundings.
+
+ANCHOR IN SOUTHERN ENTRANCE OF THE RIVER.
+
+About 2 P.M. we neared the southern mouth of the Gascoyne, pulled two
+miles up it, and anchored about a mile and a half to the south of our
+former position. The men, although it was very warm and they had been
+pulling hard all day, had as yet only had about a wine-glass full of
+water each, I therefore lost no time in sending off a watering party; and
+the remainder of us collected samphire which grew abundantly hereabouts
+and forms a fair article of food for hungry men.
+
+The remainder of the evening was occupied in completing our water and in
+endeavouring to get a shot at some pelicans, but although numerous they
+were too wary, and my feet were covered with such dreadful sores from bad
+diet and being constantly in the salt water that I could not walk to any
+great distance in search of game.
+
+COMPLETE OUR WATER.
+
+The completion of our supply of water was a very great matter and, as we
+had now got so far to the southward as to make our fetching the northern
+extremity of Bernier Island almost a matter of certainty, however
+strongly it might blow, I determined to effect the passage the next day.
+Indeed I could not have delayed it for our provisions, bad as they were,
+were almost exhausted, and the men were already much reduced from the
+scarcity and bad quality of their food.
+
+
+CHAPTER 17. FROM THE GASCOYNE TO GANTHEAUME BAY.
+
+SAIL FROM THE GASCOYNE.
+
+March 20.
+
+When we pulled out of the Gascoyne this morning the first streak of dawn
+had not lit up the eastern horizon, we however managed by creeping along
+the southern shore to get out to sea, and there anchored until it was
+light enough to see the compass. I found a very heavy sea running outside
+and a strong breeze blowing from the southward; at this time however
+there was nothing which in my opinion rendered it too hazardous to risk
+the passage, more especially being pressed as we were by the want of
+food. The distance across to Bernier Island from the point of the main
+where we were was about ten miles further than it is from Dover to
+Calais. Our boats were in very bad repair, and the landing on the other
+side was by no means good. I therefore certainly would not have ventured
+to make the passage in a gale of wind; but the weather did not seem
+threatening and it had been for many successive days blowing as hard as
+it was when we started.
+
+CAUGHT IN A GALE OF WIND.
+
+We might have gone nine or ten miles when the wind suddenly increased,
+and ere we had made five more it had become a perfect gale and we were
+obliged to keep the boats close hauled, for had we run ever so little
+before the wind we should not have fetched Bernier Island, and
+consequently should have been blown right out to sea. We had nothing
+therefore now to do but to struggle for it, and to use every energy to
+save ourselves. Sea after sea broke into the boat but the water was as
+rapidly baled out: none could have behaved better than the crews of both
+boats did, and the whole scene was one of such constant, cheerful, and
+successful exertion that, great as our danger was, I do not recollect
+ever having a keener perception of the pleasure of excited feelings, or a
+more thorough revelry of joyous emotions, than I had during this perilous
+passage.
+
+REACH BERNIER ISLAND.
+
+Bernier Island at last rose in sight and amidst the giant waves we
+occasionally caught a peep of its rocky shores; but we were so tossed to
+and fro that it was only now and then that from the summit of some
+lofty sea we could sight a high shore which was not more than four or
+five miles from us. We had made the island about five miles from its
+northern extremity, and I ran along the shore until I found a convenient
+landing-place about a mile and a half to the south of our old one.
+
+CHANGE IN THE LAND.
+
+It was perfectly sheltered by reefs and an island, but it surprised me
+that I had not remarked this cove on my previous visit to the island, and
+I was still further astonished to see now three new small rocky islands,
+of which I had no recollection whatever. Indeed the men all for a long
+time stoutly denied that this was Bernier Island and, had we not now
+sighted Kok's Island, I should have doubted my skill in navigation and
+made up my mind that I had fallen into some strange error; but as it was
+forebodings shot across my wind as to what pranks the hurricane might
+have been playing upon the island, which consisted of nothing but loose
+sand heaped upon a bed of limestone rock of very unequal elevation.
+
+I ran in my own boat upon a convenient point of the beach and the other
+boat followed in safety, for I did not like, in such foul weather, to
+leave them at anchor on a lee shore, which had previously proved so
+unsafe a position. A most awkward question now presented itself to my
+consideration: from the altered appearance of the coast I felt very
+considerable doubts as to the state in which the depot might be found;
+supposing anything had occurred to it I felt that it would be unadvisable
+that such a discovery should be made in the presence of many persons; as
+future discipline would in a great measure depend upon the first
+impression that was given. Who, then, had I better select for the purpose
+of visiting the depot in the first instance? After some deliberation I
+made choice of Mr. Smith and Corporal Coles, in the courage,
+disinterestedness, and self-possession of both of whom I placed great
+confidence. I directed Mr. Walker to see certain little alterations made
+in the boats before the men were allowed to straggle; these I knew would
+occupy them for some time and leave me therefore during this interval
+free to think and act according to circumstances. I now called Mr. Smith
+and Corporal Coles to accompany me, and told Coles to bring a spade with
+him.
+
+DESTRUCTION OF THE DEPOT OF PROVISIONS. SYMPTOMS OF CALAMITY.
+
+Before we had gone very far alarming symptoms met my eyes in the form of
+staves of flour casks scattered about amongst the rocks, and even high up
+on the sandhills. Coles however persisted that these wore so far inland
+that they could only have come from the flour casks which we had emptied
+before starting. I knew they were far too numerous for such to be the
+case, but I suppressed my opinion and made no remarks. We next came to a
+cask of salt provisions, washed high and dry at least twenty feet above
+the usual high-water mark: the sea had evidently not been near this for a
+long period as it was half covered with drift sand which must have taken
+some time to accumulate. This Coles easily accounted for, it was merely
+the cask which had been lost from the wreck of the Paul Pry. I still
+thought otherwise but said nothing.
+
+At length we reached the spot where the depot had been made: so changed
+was it that both Mr. Smith and Coles persisted it was not the place; but
+on going to the shore there were some very remarkable rocks, on the top
+of which lay a flour cask more than half empty, with the head knocked
+out, but not otherwise injured; this also was washed up at least twenty
+feet of perpendicular elevation beyond high water mark. The dreadful
+certainty now flashed upon the minds of Mr. Smith and Coles, and I waited
+to see what effect it would have upon them. Coles did not bear the
+surprise so well as I had expected; he dashed the spade upon the ground
+with almost ferocious violence, and looking up to me he said, "All lost,
+Sir! we are all lost, Sir!" Mr. Smith stood utterly calm and unmoved; I
+had not calculated wrongly upon his courage and firmness. His answer to
+Coles was, "Nonsense, Coles, we shall do very well yet; why, there is a
+cask of salt provisions and half a cask of flour still left."
+
+I now rallied Coles upon his conduct; compared it with that of Mr. Smith,
+and told him that when I had taken him on to the depot in preference to
+the other men it had been in the expectation that, if any disaster had
+happened, he would, by his coolness and courage, have given such an
+example as would have exercised a salutary influence upon the others.
+This had the desired effect upon him; he became perfectly cool and
+collected and promised to make light of the misfortune to the rest, and
+to observe the strictest discipline. I then requested Mr. Smith to see
+the little flour that was left in the barrel and on the rocks carefully
+collected by Coles, and, leaving them thus engaged, I turned back along
+the sea shore towards the party; glad of the opportunity of being alone
+as I could now commune freely with my own thoughts.
+
+ALARMING POSITION AND PROSPECTS. REPAIR DAMAGES, AND RETURN TO THE MAIN.
+
+The safety of the whole party now depended upon my forming a prompt and
+efficient plan of operations, and seeing it carried out with energy and
+perseverance. As soon as I was out of sight of Mr. Smith and Coles I sat
+down upon a rock on the shore to reflect upon our present position. The
+view seawards was discouraging; the gale blew fiercely in my face and the
+spray of the breakers was dashed over me; nothing could be more gloomy
+and drear. I turned inland and could see only a bed of rock, covered with
+drifting sand, on which grew a stunted vegetation, and former experience
+had taught me that we could not hope to find water in this island; our
+position here was therefore untenable, and but three plans presented
+themselves to me: first, to leave a notice of my intentions on the
+island, then to make for some known point on the main and there endeavour
+to subsist ourselves until we should be found and taken off by the
+Colonial schooner; secondly, to start for Timor or Port Essington;
+thirdly, to try to make Swan River in the boats.
+
+CONSOLATIONS OF RELIGION.
+
+I determined not to decide hastily between these plans and, in order more
+fully to compose my mind, I sat down and read a few chapters in the
+Bible.
+
+By the influence these imparted I became perfectly contented and resigned
+to our apparently wretched condition and, again rising up, pursued my way
+along the beach to the party. It may be here remarked by some that these
+statements of my attending to religious duties are irrelevant to the
+subject, but in such an opinion I cannot at all coincide. In detailing
+the sufferings we underwent it is necessary to relate the means by which
+those sufferings were alleviated; and after having, in the midst of
+perils and misfortunes, received the greatest consolation from religion,
+I should be ungrateful to my Maker not to acknowledge this, and should
+ill perform my duty to my fellow men did I not bear testimony to the fact
+that, under all the weightier sorrows and sufferings that our frail
+nature is liable to, a perfect reliance upon the goodness of God and the
+merits of our Redeemer will be found a sure refuge and a certain source
+of consolation.
+
+In pursuing my route along the beach I carefully examined every heap of
+seaweed which the waves had thrown up, and was fortunate enough to find a
+bag of flour which had been washed up by the tide and held there by some
+rocks; though from daily soaking in salt water for several weeks it was
+quite spoilt and fermented, and smelt like beer; yet this, under present
+circumstances, was more valuable than its weight in gold. Just after I
+had found this bag, I met Ruston and another man coming from the boats to
+the depot; I at once told them exactly how matters stood; they bore the
+announcement better than I could have hoped for, and when I showed them
+that their safety altogether depended on their good conduct they promised
+the most implicit obedience and a ready cheerful demeanour. I must do
+Ruston the justice to say that under every trial he most scrupulously
+adhered to the promise he then made, and never infringed upon it in the
+slightest degree.
+
+CONDUCT OF THE MEN.
+
+When I reached the party and told the tale of the total disappearance of
+all we had left at the depot blank and dismayed faces met me on all
+sides. Mr. Walker and Corporal Auger set an excellent example to the
+others; but two men, of the names of Harry and Charley Woods, seized the
+first convenient opportunity of walking off to the place where our
+miserable remnant of damper was deposited with the intention of
+appropriating it to themselves. I only waited till they actually laid
+their hands upon it, when I stopped them, placed a sentry over what
+provisions were left, ordered a survey of all stores to be held, and a
+report to be made to me; and then went off with a party to search the
+shore in the hope of finding any other things which might have been
+washed up: our search however proved quite unsuccessful.
+
+CHOICE OF PLANS.
+
+I had warned the men that at sunset I would inform them what my
+intentions were with regard to our future movements; and in the meantime
+all hands were employed in searching for provisions or in preparing the
+boats for sea. A very gloomy prospect was before us: the men were already
+much reduced from illness, from using damaged provisions, and from hard
+work and exposure combined: our boats were in a very leaky unsound state,
+whilst all means of efficiently repairing them had been swept away in the
+hurricane. Add to this that the only provisions we had left really fit to
+eat were about nine days' salt meat, at the rate of a pound a man per
+diem, and about sixty pounds of tolerably good flour.
+
+It would be useless to detail the different reasons which induced me to
+adopt the plan of endeavouring to make Swan River in the whale boats;
+this was however the course I resolved to pursue. Its principal
+advantages were that we should be constantly approaching home; and that
+if any accident should happen to the boats we might always hope to reach
+Perth by walking: the principal objection to it was the prevalence of
+strong south-east winds. At sunset the party assembled. I detailed to
+them at considerable length the three most feasible plans which had
+offered themselves to me, the reasons which had made me reject two of
+them, as well as those which led me to adopt the third; and as I knew
+that there were two or three insubordinate characters amongst the men,
+whom I had picked up at Fremantle, I further told them that, if a
+sufficient number to man one of the boats objected to follow me, they
+could go their own way; as the success of my scheme would altogether
+depend upon the courage and subordination with which it was carried out.
+No dissentient voice was however raised, but they all promised to follow
+me wherever I might lead. We now made arrangements for searching for
+turtle during the night, and then stretched ourselves on the sand to try
+and sleep.
+
+March 21.
+
+We were unfortunate in not catching a turtle during the night; the season
+for them had however now passed away, so that we could only hope to cut
+off a stray one which might have lingered behind its fellows. The next
+day was occupied in sticking up a steer-oar with a tin canister attached
+to it, containing a letter in which was detailed the plan I intended to
+follow, so that in the event of any accident occurring, and our remaining
+on the coast, we might still have the chance of a vessel being sent to
+search for us. The men were occupied in looking for shellfish, drying the
+flour, and preparing the boats. It blew nearly a gale of wind from the
+south throughout the day.
+
+RETURN TO THE MAIN.
+
+March 22.
+
+This day at two P.M., all our preparations having been completed and the
+wind somewhat moderated, we stood across the bay, and soon after
+nightfall made the main about twelve miles to the north of the northern
+mouth of the Gascoyne. The wind freshened a great deal during the night;
+but as it was impossible to beach boats on so dangerous a coast in the
+dark we were obliged to trust to the goodness of our anchors, and they
+did not disappoint us.
+
+March 23.
+
+Before dawn this morning we were under weigh and pulling dead to windward
+against a strong breeze and heavy sea; the men rowed almost without
+intermission until noon when, finding them completely exhausted, I made
+sail and stood in towards the shore. When we had approached the land
+about four miles to the north of the Gascoyne a party of natives came
+down, without their spears, in the most friendly manner, making signs to
+us to land. We had however but little time to spare, and could not afford
+to give them any provisions: knowing also the small dependence that can
+be placed upon them in a first interview, I thought it most prudent to
+decline their invitation.
+
+COMPLETE OUR WATER.
+
+We accordingly continued our route and in the course of the evening made
+the river, where we completed our water, and halted for the night. We saw
+nothing more of the natives here, but I feel convinced that in the event
+of a settlement being formed at this point no difficulty would be found
+in establishing and maintaining the most friendly relations with them.
+
+ANCHOR TO THE NORTH OF THE GASCOYNE.
+
+March 24.
+
+The morning did not promise very well, but soon after sunrise the wind
+shifted so much to the westward that we were able to run along shore, and
+in the course of the day we made altogether about forty-five miles,
+tracing the greater part of the remaining unknown portion of the shores
+of Shark Bay. On leaving the Gascoyne, a low point bore due south of us,
+distant about twelve miles, which I named Point Greenough after George
+Bellas Greenough, Esquire, the president of the Royal Geographical
+Society; and between this point and the river lay a deep bay, the shores
+of which were low and thickly studded with mangroves, through which many
+saltwater creeks ran up into the country. Two of these creeks I had
+examined on a previous occasion, and therefore now paid no attention to
+them.
+
+EXAMINE THE COAST TO THE SOUTHWARD. ITS CHARACTER.
+
+After passing Point Greenough the shore trended south by east and for the
+next eight miles preserved its low character, being still thickly wooded
+with mangroves; but at this point a remarkable change takes place as the
+mangroves suddenly cease, and the low range of hills which extends
+southward along the coast parallel to the shore increases a little in
+height. In about another mile the mangroves again commence, the coast now
+trending south-east; and about five miles further it runs south-east by
+east, forming a bay about four miles deep, the bottom of which is
+tolerably clear of mangroves.
+
+CONTINUE OUR COURSE TO THE SOUTHWARD.
+
+Having crossed this bay we ran south-east by south parallel to the shore;
+the mangroves now became less continuous and numerous, at least they
+appeared to us to be so, and the range of hills seemed also to approach
+much nearer to the sea. We continued on this course until sunset, when I
+selected a snug little bay in the mangroves, where we anchored at the
+distance of a few yards from the shore and made ourselves as comfortable
+as we could for the night.
+
+CHARACTER OF THE COAST AND SEA.
+
+There was great beauty in the scenery which we saw during the day's sail;
+the waters and the sky had that peculiar brilliancy about them which is
+only seen in fine weather and in a tropical climate. To the west of us
+lay an apparently boundless expanse of sea, whilst to the eastward we had
+a low shore fringed with trees, not only down to the water's edge but
+forming little green knolls of foliage in the ocean itself; behind these
+trees lay low wooded hills, and in front of them stalked and swam about
+pelicans and waterfowl in countless numbers. We had only about three feet
+depth of clear transparent water, through which we saw that the flats
+beneath us were covered with vivid coloured shells of many genera, some
+of which were of a very large size; strange-looking fish of a variety of
+kinds were also sporting about; more particularly sharks of a new species
+(of that kind which I shot at in mistake for an alligator) and stingrays.
+Whenever a lull occurred the men, unable to resist the chance of getting
+a meal, would jump out of the boat, and give chase to one of these
+sting-rays, boat-hook in hand, and then loud peals of laughter rose from
+the others as the pursuer, too anxious to attain his object, missed his
+stroke or, stumbling, rolled headlong in the water. The fineness of the
+day, the novelty of the scenery, and the rapid way we were making made
+the poor fellows forget past dangers, as well as those they had yet to
+undergo. My own meditations were of a more melancholy character, for I
+feared that the days of some of the light-hearted group were already
+numbered and would soon be brought to a close. Amidst such scenes and
+thoughts we were swept along, whilst this unknown coast, which so many
+had anxiously yet vainly wished to see, passed before our eyes like a
+panorama or a dream, and, ere many years have hurried by it is probable
+that the recollection of this day will be as such to me.
+
+BOAT LEFT AGROUND BY THE TIDE.
+
+March 25.
+
+This morning I was up early in order that we might lose no time in
+getting under weigh; I was much surprised however to find both boats
+aground, and when the day had dawned sufficiently to enable me to
+distinguish surrounding objects I could not make out the sea, but found
+that we were lodged in a regular mangrove bush. I walked a few yards to
+get a clear view to the westward and found that we were at least a mile
+inland, so far does the tide run in over this low level shore. My eyes
+were so sore that I could scarcely see and I therefore did not attempt to
+make an excursion into the country, but sent a party for this purpose,
+who ascended the first low range of hills and reported that the country
+as far as they could see to the eastward was a succession of low mud
+flats subject to the overflowings of the sea. There was a
+promising-looking creek immediately to the south of us.
+
+The tide came very slowly in until ten o'clock, which was about the time
+of high-water: but here it had only half risen and remained stationary
+for some time, when it began to ebb again, but soon meeting the second
+flood, now came pouring rapidly in, and just before sunset there was
+water enough for us to get off. We pulled to a low point, distant about
+two miles, and which bore south by east from us; and having anchored off
+this waited for the morning dawn to pursue our voyage.
+
+CONTINUE A SOUTHERLY COURSE.
+
+March 26.
+
+In the morning I found that the point we were anchored off ran south-east
+and north-west: it was about two miles long and formed a low spit of land
+whence the coast trended due south. I debated for a few minutes whether I
+should explore the creek which lay to the south of us, but decided in the
+negative. Had I followed my own wishes I should have done so, but the
+lives of others now depended on my incurring no unjustifiable delay, and
+it did not therefore appear to be of importance; besides, as we had now
+traced the unknown portions of this great bay, and had moreover
+discovered in it a country in every way fitted for immediate occupation,
+and which indeed appeared from its soil and position to be one of the
+most valuable portions of the western side of the Continent, I thought
+that everything worthy of any great risk or danger had been accomplished,
+and resolved to hurry homewards.
+
+STEER FROM THE MAIN.
+
+After following the coast for a few miles further to the south I
+considered we were now far enough to windward to fetch somewhere near the
+centre of Perron's Peninsula; I therefore made sail and steered for that
+point.
+
+ANOTHER GALE OF WIND.
+
+Our passage across was a long and tedious one, and when at last towards
+evening we sighted Perron's Peninsula it was very evident that my boat
+would not do more than fetch the very northern point, but the other boat,
+which was a much better sailer, was nearly a mile to windward of us. The
+weather had been for the last hour or two very threatening, and we had
+reached to within two miles of the shore when the wind suddenly shifted
+to the south-west and began to blow a terrific gale. We had just time to
+down sail and take to the oars, and as every one of the crew saw that his
+life depended on it they gave way strenuously. We were under the lee of
+the Peninsula and had it not been for this circumstance must undoubtedly
+have been lost. That gale of wind was a terrible and magnificent sight. I
+stood at the steer oar; the waves lifted the boat each time nearly
+broadside on, and it was all I could do to bring her head round in time
+to meet the next sea, but the men pulled steadily. "Now men, give way for
+your lives," I called out if they flagged, and renewed energy was
+instantly infused into all of them. At times we could not hold our own
+against the wind and waves, and at the most favourable moments seemed
+merely to stand still. I looked at the shore until my eyes ached; but no
+nearer did it appear to be than at first, and gradually grew less
+distinct as the daylight faded. We could only see the other boat now and
+then; but although she was evidently in imminent peril they were much
+nearer in shore than we were. The danger we underwent on this occasion
+was great; but the excitement of so wild and grand a scene was highly
+pleasurable, and when success at last crowned our exertions, and we went
+dancing wildly in through the surf and spray upon a rocky unknown shore,
+and found the other crew on the beach ready to help us in hauling up, I
+felt that there is a charm attached to scenes like these which can only
+be fully estimated by those who have experienced it. Having in our turn
+assisted to haul up the other boat we lighted our fires and laid down for
+the night.
+
+PERRON'S PENINSULA.
+
+March 27.
+
+This morning I found that all our hands were so fatigued by the exertions
+of the previous day that a few hours of comparative rest was absolutely
+necessary. I therefore directed them to stroll about the beach for an
+hour or two and to collect oysters or shellfish. The part of Perron's
+Peninsula which we were on consists of abrupt cliffs of the height of
+about two hundred feet; at the base of these and between them and the sea
+there is a narrow strip of sandy land and dunes, and at their summit is a
+barren sandy tableland, gently sloping away to the southward and
+appearing to extend throughout the whole length of the peninsula.
+
+As soon as I thought the men were sufficiently rested we launched the
+boats, but on rounding the northern extremity of the peninsula met a
+heavy sea running from the southward and were obliged to take to the
+oars. We had not got more than two miles to the southward of Cape Leseuer
+when I saw so many indications of an approaching gale that I ran in again
+and beached the boats; and this operation was hardly accomplished ere it
+blew with terrific violence from the south-south-west. Both here and at
+our last night's encampment we saw numerous signs of natives, and now
+found several native wells in the sandhills, but had no occasion to use
+them as we had regular tropical rain for the rest of the day. The men
+here brought me the bones of a very large marine animal which they had
+found at the natives' fire, but I could not recognise them as belonging
+to any that I was acquainted with. At this period, from bad food and
+being constantly wet with salt water, we were all afflicted with sores of
+the most painful and annoying character, and these much increased the
+unpleasantness of our situation.
+
+ANOTHER GALE.
+
+March 28.
+
+This morning the weather looked tolerably fine; I therefore ordered the
+boats to be launched and, after pulling a few miles to windward along
+Perron's Peninsula, we struck across for Dirk Hartog's Island; our former
+ill-luck however still attended us, for just as we were making the land
+another fearful gale from the south-south-west came on, and had we not
+had the good luck to have got under the lee of the Coin de Mire of the
+French we must infallibly have been wrecked; as it was we pulled along
+under this promontory and beached the boats in a little bay at its
+north-west extremity. Nothing but absolute necessity could however have
+induced me to take such a step, for the place was rocky and difficult of
+access, with a heavy surf breaking on the beach. The rain fell in
+torrents during the greater part of the evening, and the men spent the
+time in searching for oysters and shellfish with which to appease their
+hunger. The rain which had fallen during the last two days had a very
+injurious effect upon some of us, for, our clothes having been lost with
+the other things which were swept away from the depot during the
+hurricane of the first of March, we were very insufficiently clad.
+
+DIRK HARTOG'S ISLAND.
+
+March 29.
+
+The weather this morning being very foul I occupied myself in making a
+survey of a portion of Dirk Hartog's Island, which is of a very barren
+nature, though rather better than either Bernier or Dorre Islands, but
+for many years to come it must be utterly useless. It looks exactly like
+a Scottish heath; and I have no doubt whatever that water would be found
+by digging on it; but as we could have obtained plenty from large holes
+in the rocks we did not make the attempt. Whilst I was occupied in this
+examination of the island the wind shifted suddenly to the north-west and
+I hurried back to the party in order not to lose so favourable an
+opportunity.
+
+On arriving at the boats I found that the water had not been completed,
+nor had three days' provisions (such as they were) been cooked, although
+I had left orders when I went away that these necessary preparations for
+our moving should immediately be made; this gave me another reason to
+suspect that, during my temporary absence from the party, discipline was
+now altogether neglected, and indeed treated as an unnecessary restraint
+under existing circumstances. Mr. Smith had warned me that such was the
+case, and I therefore never separated myself from any portion of the
+party without great anxiety; for I well knew that the safety of all
+depended upon preserving the strictest subordination.
+
+In this instance however I merely ordered the boats to be instantly
+launched; for I knew that to lose a fair wind in our present situation
+would be rashness; and we were soon bounding before the breeze. The wind
+now continued fair and at nightfall we landed on the main in such a
+position as to look out to the open sea, through the passage between
+Steep Point and Dirk Hartog's Island.
+
+PERILOUS COASTING.
+
+March 30.
+
+This morning we pulled up the opening and found a perfect bubble of a sea
+running into it and breaking on the various reefs which lie in its mouth.
+We then made an attempt to pull round Steep Point and succeeded in
+getting out to sea; but there was a formidable swell setting dead on the
+shore and drifting us rapidly in towards it, whilst in the event of being
+stranded nothing could have saved our lives for the surf was so
+tremendous that the boat must instantly have gone to pieces, and the
+lofty limestone cliffs were perfectly inaccessible, being hollowed out
+into deep caverns by the action of the waves. The attempt to get along
+this coast appeared indeed to be so hazardous that even the old sailors
+who were with me begged me not to risk it, but rather to allow them to
+endeavour to walk overland to Perth. I was well aware that had I
+attempted to do this at least half the party would have been lost; for
+but few men can support the fatigue of making long and continuous marches
+in a very warm climate in which a great scarcity of water prevails.
+
+SHELTER UNDER A REEF.
+
+I however humoured them so far as to put back for the mouth of the
+opening, where, under the shelter of a reef, we could lie at anchor for a
+few hours in the hope that the sea would lull a little; we however only
+just cleared Steep Point, and whilst doing so I felt certain for two or
+three minutes that we must have gone ashore, for each breaker lifted the
+boat bodily towards the cliffs; as it was however it pleased Providence
+to bring us safe to our anchorage.
+
+We were now about to enter on the most perilous part of our journey
+homewards. For the next one hundred and twenty miles along the coast I
+could not hope to find a place whereon to beach the boats, in the event
+of our meeting with those unfavourable winds which we had hitherto found
+so prevalent. It would, in the present weak state of the party, take us
+many successive days to make this passage; and, should the weather be
+really foul, accompanied by strong gales from the south-west, our fate
+would soon have been decided. Nevertheless our hope of ultimate safety
+rested altogether upon the accomplishment of the difficult task we were
+about to commence.
+
+INSUBORDINATION CHECKED.
+
+I soon found that remaining in a state of inactivity would but increase
+our difficulties; for as the men talked over them to one another, they
+grew wore and more gloomy, and when at length I gave a particular order
+to a man of the name of Woods he quietly refused to obey it, saying that
+he now considered that his life was altogether lost, and that he would
+therefore knock off work. I was rather puzzled for a minute or two as to
+how I ought to act under these circumstances, for such an example as he
+had set necessarily exercised a bad influence over the others; yet there
+was no use in threatening to punish where I had not the means to do so; I
+therefore merely turned round to the man who had the charge of sharing
+out our scanty allowance of provisions and desired him to divide Woods'
+portion of water and provisions amongst the rest of us today, as I
+intended for the future that he should have none, at all events not until
+he did his fair share of work. This had the desired effect; he soon came
+to his senses and told me that I might as well throw him overboard at
+once as starve him, to which I replied that unless he overcame his
+cowardice and bore his proportion of the toil we all had to go through I
+should in no way whatever interfere with his starving, being thrown
+overboard, or anything else; but that I would take very good care that he
+had neither a morsel to eat or a drop of water to drink; whereupon he
+again resumed his duty and from that time forward proved to be one of the
+best men I had with me; indeed I never again had occasion to find fault
+with him.
+
+Seeing however what a pernicious effect this delay was likely to produce
+I determined at once to cope with those difficulties, which we must
+either overcome or perish; and accordingly round Steep Point we again
+went, and for the rest of this evening and night contended with the heavy
+sea as well as we could, keeping about a mile from the shore, sometimes
+pulling and sometimes getting a favourable slant of wind.
+
+March 31.
+
+This day we continued our course, tracing out the shore. A small piece of
+raw pork was served out to each man; and I found this to be a very nice
+and palatable morsel; it however increased our thirst, which, as we were
+upon very short allowance of water, was rather a disadvantage; but it was
+absolutely necessary that we should take some nourishment.
+
+CHARACTER OF THE SHORE.
+
+The country hereabouts is very uninviting, consisting of a high range of
+barren limestone hills, ascending gradually from steep cliffs which form
+the coastline. These hills are of such equal elevation that they have a
+monotonous as well as barren appearance, and are rent in places by deep
+rocky gullies which run down into the sea. No change whatever took place
+in the character of the coast throughout our day's ruin, nor did I see a
+spot where a boat could land. I did not close my eyes during Sunday
+night, for we were still in a most perilous position, and I felt that
+whilst we were on so dangerous a coast with a foul wind it was my duty to
+keep upon the alert as long as wearied nature would admit of my so doing.
+
+As soon as there was sufficient light for me to distinguish the coastline
+I found that it was somewhat losing its monotonous character by breaking
+into more detached hills; and about ten A.M., we reached the northern
+extremity of Gantheaume Bay.
+
+TO GANTHEAUME BAY.
+
+The men being now completely worn out by want of rest, incessant
+exertion, and the mental anxiety they had undergone in the last fifty-six
+hours, during the whole of which time they had been in actual danger, I
+determined to attempt a landing in Gantheaume Bay, and therefore pulled
+along shore with the intention of finding a spot where we could easily
+land and yet be near a place likely to afford us water; for
+notwithstanding the economy we had practised none now was left. I soon
+came to an opening in the bay which I thought would suit our purpose, but
+Ruston, on whose opinion in such matters I placed great reliance,
+reported it to be utterly impracticable; we still therefore pulled along
+the shore, and found it lashed throughout its whole extent by a fearful
+surf. The south end of the bay, although protected by a reef, had just as
+heavy a surf breaking on it as any other part of the shore and was also
+very rocky, we therefore turned back to a sandy beach which we had passed
+in pulling round the bay and, having carefully examined this, it appeared
+in every way suited to our purpose, so we committed ourselves to the
+mercy of the breakers and in we went. As I stood at the steer-oar I saw
+that this was a heavier surf than we had ever yet been in. We were swept
+along at a terrific rate, and yet it appeared as if each following wave
+must engulf us, so lofty were they, and so rapidly did they pour on.
+
+WRECK OF ONE OF THE BOATS.
+
+At length we reached the point where the waves broke; the breaker that we
+were on curled up in the air, lifting the boat with it, and when we had
+gained the summit I looked down from a great height, not upon water, but
+upon a bare, sharp, black rock. For one second the boat hung upon the top
+of the wave; in the next I felt the sensation of falling rapidly, then a
+tremendous shock and crash which jerked me away amongst rocks and
+breakers, and for the few following seconds I heard nothing but the din
+of waves whilst I was rolling about amongst men, and a torn boat, oars,
+and water-kegs, in such a manner that I could not collect my senses.
+
+END OF VOLUME 1.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Journals Of Two Expeditions Of
+Discovery In North-West And Western Australia, Vol. 1 (of 2), by George Grey
+
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