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diff --git a/16027-h/16027-h.htm b/16027-h/16027-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..924a376 --- /dev/null +++ b/16027-h/16027-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,13263 @@ +<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN"> +<html> +<head> +<title>Two Expeditions of Discovery</title> +<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content= +"text/html; charset=iso-8859-1"> +<style type="text/css"> +<!-- +body {background: #ffffcc; margin:10%; text-align:justify} +h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 {color:green; text-align:center} +blockquote {font-size: .9em} +p.poem {text-align:center} +p.external {font-weight: bold} +--> +</style> +</head> +<body> + + +<pre> + +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Journals Of Two Expeditions Of Discovery In +North-West And Western Australia, Vol. 1 (of 2), by George Grey + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Journals Of Two Expeditions Of Discovery In North-West And Western Australia, Vol. 1 (of 2) + +Author: George Grey + +Release Date: June 9, 2005 [EBook #16027] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK JOURNALS OF TWO EXPEDITIONS *** + + + + +Produced by Sue Asscher and Col Choat + + + + + +</pre> + +<p><a name="home"></a></p> + +<center> +<p><a name="grey1-01"></a><img alt="" src="images/grey1-01.jpg"></p> +</center> + +<h2>JOURNALS<br> +OF<br> +TWO EXPEDITIONS OF DISCOVERY<br> +IN<br> +NORTH-WEST AND WESTERN<br> +AUSTRALIA,<br> +DURING THE YEARS 1837, 1838, AND 1839,</h2> + +<h3>Under the Authority of Her Majesty's Government.</h3> + +<h3>DESCRIBING<br> +MANY NEWLY DISCOVERED, IMPORTANT, AND<br> +FERTILE DISTRICTS,<br> +WITH<br> +OBSERVATIONS ON THE MORAL AND PHYSICAL<br> +CONDITION OF THE ABORIGINAL INHABITANTS, ETC. ETC.</h3> + +<h2>BY GEORGE GREY, ESQUIRE.</h2> + +<h3>GOVERNOR OF SOUTH AUSTRALIA;<br> +Late Captain of the Eighty-third Regiment.</h3> + +<hr align="center" width="25%"> +<h3>IN TWO VOLUMES.</h3> + +<h2>VOLUME 1.</h2> + +<hr align="center" width="25%"> +<h3>LONDON:<br> +T. AND W. BOONE, 29 NEW BOND STREET.</h3> + +<h3>1841.</h3> + +<hr align="center" width="25%"> +<center> +<p><a name="grey1-02"></a><img alt="" src="images/grey1-02.jpg"></p> + +<p><b>2. Sandstone Cave with Paintings near Glenelg River. Drawn +on stone by George Barnard from a sketch by Captain George Grey. +M. and N. Hanhart, Lithographic Printers, 64 Charlotte Street, +Rathbone Place.</b></p> +</center> + +<h2>CONTENTS OF VOLUME 1.</h2> + +<p><a href="#dedication">DEDICATION.</a></p> + +<p><a href="#preface">PREFACE.</a></p> + +<p><a href="#chapter1">CHAPTER 1. COMMENCEMENT OF THE EXPEDITION. +TENERIFE.</a></p> + +<p>GENERAL PLAN AND OBJECTS.<br> +INSTRUCTIONS.<br> +TENERIFE.<br> +AQUEDUCT AT SANTA CRUZ.<br> +EXCURSION TO ORATAVA.<br> +CAMELS.<br> +STATISTICS OF THE CANARY ISLANDS.<br> +TABLES.<br> +METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS.<br> +VOCABULARY OF THE CANARIAN DIALECTS.<br> +MARINE BLOWING-STONE.<br> +GUANCHE BONE CAVE.</p> + +<p><a href="#chapter2">CHAPTER 2. TO BAHIA AND THE CAPE OF GOOD +HOPE.</a></p> + +<p>ATMOSPHERICAL PHENOMENON AT SEA.<br> +LAND AT BAHIA.<br> +EVENING WALK.<br> +THE TOWN.<br> +STATE OF SOCIETY.<br> +REMARKS ON VOYAGE FROM BAHIA TO THE CAPE.<br> +ARRIVAL THERE.<br> +HIRE THE LYNHER.<br> +EQUIPMENT AND PLANS.<br> +SAIL FOR HANOVER BAY.</p> + +<p><a href="#chapter3">CHAPTER 3. FROM THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE TO +HANOVER BAY.</a></p> + +<p>NATURAL HISTORY.</p> + +<p><a href="#chapter4">CHAPTER 4. HANOVER BAY.</a></p> + +<p>NEW AND DANGEROUS SHOAL.<br> +ARRIVAL OFF THE COAST OF AUSTRALIA.<br> +ASPECT OF THE COUNTRY FROM SHIP-BOARD.<br> +LAND AT HIGH BLUFF POINT.<br> +WALK TO HANOVER BAY.<br> +DISTRESS FOR WANT OF WATER ON THE ROUTE.<br> +LOSS OF OUR THREE DOGS.<br> +TRACES OF NATIVES.<br> +THEIR HUTS.<br> +ALARMING DEBILITY OF THE MEN.<br> +EFFORTS TO REACH THE VESSEL.<br> +SWIM AN INLET OF THE SEA.<br> +DANGER IN THE PASSAGE ACROSS AND AFTER LANDING.<br> +THE PARTY REGAIN THE LYNHER.</p> + +<p><a href="#chapter5">CHAPTER 5. AT HANOVER BAY.</a></p> + +<p>PLAGUE OF FLIES.<br> +ENTRANCE TO PRINCE REGENT'S RIVER.<br> +EFFECT OF TIDES.<br> +GREEN ANTS.<br> +DESCRIPTION OF LANDING-PLACE, AND ENCAMPMENT AT HANOVER BAY.<br> +FATE OF TWO OF THE DOGS.<br> +LABOUR OF DISEMBARKING STORES.<br> +NATIVES.<br> +REMARKABLE FISHES.<br> +PREPARATIONS FOR SENDING THE VESSEL TO TIMOR.</p> + +<p><a href="#chapter6">CHAPTER 6. HANOVER BAY AND ITS +VICINITY.</a></p> + +<p>NATIVES SEEN.<br> +FIRST EXCURSION.<br> +CHARACTER OF THE SCENERY.<br> +GEOLOGICAL PHENOMENA.<br> +CUCKOO-PHEASANT.<br> +SPORTING.<br> +NATIVE HAUNTS.<br> +ATTACK OF NATIVES.<br> +RETURN TO HANOVER BAY.<br> +PROCEEDINGS THERE DURING MY ABSENCE.<br> +CHRISTMAS DINNER.<br> +PLANTING USEFUL SEEDS.<br> +WALK TO MUNSTER WATER.<br> +ISTHMUS NEAR HANOVER BAY.<br> +HILL OF SHELLS.<br> +COUNTRY ABOUT PRINCE REGENT'S RIVER.<br> +GOUTY-STEMMED TREES.<br> +SINGULAR PIECES OF SANDSTONE.</p> + +<p><a href="#chapter7">CHAPTER 7. HANOVER BAY AND ITS +VICINITY.</a></p> + +<p>OCCUPATION AT THE CAMP.<br> +RETURN OF THE LYNHER.<br> +RELATION OF PROCEEDINGS AT TIMOR AND ROTI.<br> +NEW ISLAND SEEN.<br> +TROUBLE WITH THE HORSES.<br> +EXCURSION BY WATER TO PRINCE REGENT'S RIVER.<br> +CHARACTER OF ITS SHORES.<br> +SCENERY AND THUNDERSTORM.<br> +DEPARTURE FOR THE INTERIOR.<br> +DIFFICULTIES OF THE ROUTE.<br> +SICKNESS AND MORTALITY AMONG THE HORSES AND STOCK.<br> +CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY.</p> + +<p><a href="#chapter8">CHAPTER 8. TO THE GLENELG RIVER.</a></p> + +<p>MEETING AND ENCOUNTER WITH THE NATIVES.<br> +UNFORTUNATE RESULTS.<br> +DESCENT FROM THE SANDSTONE RANGE.<br> +DESCRIPTION OF A NEW VOLCANIC COUNTRY.<br> +DISCOVERY AND CHARACTER OF THE GLENELG RIVER.<br> +IMPEDIMENTS FROM MARSHES AND STREAMS.<br> +PROGRESS TOWARDS THE UPPER PART OF THE GLENELG.</p> + +<p><a href="#chapter9">CHAPTER 9. TO THE UPPER GLENELG.</a></p> + +<p>WORKS OF NATIVE INDUSTRY.<br> +MOUNT LYELL.<br> +MAGNIFICENT PROSPECT.<br> +MARKS OF INUNDATIONS.<br> +NATIVES.<br> +COCKATOOS.<br> +TORRENTS OF RAIN.<br> +SWAMPS.<br> +SNAKE AND KANGAROO.<br> +NATIVE BRIDGE.<br> +PRECIPITOUS PASS.<br> +FRILLED LIZARD.<br> +BEAUTIFUL COUNTRY.<br> +WILD OATS.<br> +CURIOUS BIRDS.<br> +PAINTED CAVE.<br> +CROSS A LARGE RIVER.<br> +NATURAL GRAPERY.<br> +FORD THE GLENELG.<br> +WEAKNESS OF THE MEN.<br> +ANOTHER PAINTED CAVE.<br> +NARROW ESCAPE.<br> +IMPASSABLE SANDSTONE RANGES.</p> + +<p><a href="#chapter10">CHAPTER 10. RETURN TO HANOVER +BAY.</a></p> + +<p>UNSUCCESSFUL SEARCH FOR A PASS.<br> +PREPARATIONS TO RETURN.<br> +LIGHT EXPLORING PARTY SENT FORWARD UNDER LIEUTENANT +LUSHINGTON.<br> +THEIR REPORT.<br> +COMMENCEMENT OF MARCH BACK.<br> +CHANGE OF TRACK.<br> +CURIOUS MOUNDS OF STONES.<br> +PASS MOUNT LYELL.<br> +RECOVERY OF BURIED STORES.<br> +ANXIETY ON APPROACHING HANOVER BAY.<br> +REJOIN THE LYNHER.<br> +MEETING WITH THE BEAGLE.<br> +STATE OF THE PLANTS AND SEEDS LEFT AT THE ENCAMPMENT.<br> +REEMBARKATION.<br> +SAIL FOR THE MAURITIUS.</p> + +<p><a href="#chapter11">CHAPTER 11. NATURAL HISTORY. CLIMATE. +ABORIGINES.</a></p> + +<p>DISTRIBUTION OF ANIMALS.<br> +NEW KANGAROO.<br> +NEW DOMESTIC DOG.<br> +CHECKS ON INCREASE OF ANIMALS.<br> +INFLUENCE OF MAN ON THEIR HABITS.<br> +TRACES OF AN ANIMAL WITH A DIVIDED HOOF.<br> +BIRDS.<br> +EMUS.<br> +ALLIGATORS.<br> +CLIMATE.<br> +PROOFS OF ITS SALUBRITY.<br> +THERMOMETRICAL OBSERVATIONS.<br> +ABORIGINES, THEIR HABITS AND MANNERS.<br> +INDIVIDUALS OF AN ALIEN RACE.<br> +SIMILARITY OF CUSTOMS WITH OTHER AUSTRALIAN TRIBES.<br> +CAVES.<br> +DRAWINGS.<br> +TOMBS.</p> + +<p><a href="#chapter12">CHAPTER 12. PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. +COMMERCIAL PROSPECTS.</a></p> + +<p>PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.<br> +MOUNTAIN RANGES.<br> +RIVERS.<br> +VALLEYS.<br> +PRODUCTIONS SUITED FOR CULTIVATION.<br> +COMMERCIAL PROSPECTS.<br> +TRADE WITH THE ASIATIC ARCHIPELAGO.<br> +METHOD OF BARTER.<br> +SUCCESS OF AMERICAN VESSELS.<br> +TRADING PRODUCTS OF THE SEVERAL ISLANDS.</p> + +<p><a href="#chapter13">CHAPTER 13. AT SWAN RIVER.</a></p> + +<p>PLAN FOR RETURNING TO THE NORTH-WEST COAST.<br> +WHY ABANDONED.<br> +EXCURSION TO THE NORTH OF PERTH.<br> +STORY-TELLING TO NATIVES.<br> +LAKES.<br> +DELAY, AND BIVOUACK.<br> +NATIVE TOILETTE.<br> +MEETING WITH A NEW TRIBE.<br> +CURIOUS SUPERSTITIONS.<br> +REVENGEFUL COMBAT AND MURDER PREVENTED.<br> +RETURN TO PERTH.<br> +EXCURSION IN SEARCH OF MR. ELLIOTT.<br> +CAUSE OF IT.<br> +THE MURRAY RIVER.<br> +WILD CATTLE.<br> +NATIVE TRACKING.<br> +CROSS THE DARLING RANGE.<br> +CONDITION OF DISTANT SETTLERS.<br> +ROUTE ALONG MR. ELLIOTT'S TRACKS.<br> +KILLING A KANGAROO.<br> +LOSE THE TRACKS.<br> +NATIVE GRAVE.<br> +ESTUARY OF THE LESCHENAULT.<br> +MEET WITH MR. ELLIOTT.<br> +RETURN TO PERTH.</p> + +<p><a href="#chapter14">CHAPTER 14. FROM SWAN RIVER TO THE SHORES +OF SHARK BAY.</a></p> + +<p>PLAN OF EXPEDITION.<br> +SAIL FROM SWAN RIVER FOR SHARK BAY.<br> +LAND AT BERNIER ISLAND.<br> +DESCRIPTION OF IT.<br> +BURY THE STORES.<br> +INEFFECTUAL SEARCH FOR WATER.<br> +LOSS OF A BOAT IN REEMBARKING.<br> +PULL FOR DORRE ISLAND.<br> +ITS CHARACTER.<br> +HURRICANE.<br> +BOATS DRIVEN ASHORE.<br> +DISTRESS FOR WATER.<br> +SAIL FOR THE MAIN.<br> +GROUND ON A SANDBANK.<br> +EXTENSIVE SHALLOWS.<br> +FAIL IN MAKING THE LAND.<br> +ANCHOR OFF MANGROVE CREEK.</p> + +<p><a href="#chapter15">CHAPTER 15. THE GASCOYNE RIVER.</a></p> + +<p>ENTER A MANGROVE CREEK.<br> +SEARCH FOR AND COMPLETE OUR WATER.<br> +EXAMINE ANOTHER CREEK.<br> +CHARACTER OF THEIR SCENERY.<br> +DISCOVER ONE MOUTH OF THE GASCOYNE RIVER, AND EXPLORE THE COUNTRY +IN ITS VICINITY.<br> +SURVEY OF MOUTHS OF THIS RIVER AND BABBAGE ISLAND.<br> +EXPLORE THE COUNTRY INLAND TO THE NORTH OF THE RIVER.<br> +INTERVIEW WITH NATIVES.<br> +SAIL FROM THE GASCOYNE.</p> + +<p><a href="#chapter16">CHAPTER 16. TO KOLAINA AND BACK TO THE +GASCOYNE.</a></p> + +<p>EXAMINE THE COAST TO THE NORTH OF THE GASCOYNE.<br> +LYELL'S RANGE.<br> +BOAT SWAMPED IN BEACHING.<br> +STATE OF PROVISIONS.<br> +SEARCH FOR WATER.<br> +REMARKABLE PLAINS.<br> +INDISPOSITION OF SEVERAL OF THE PARTY.<br> +EXAMINATION OF THE SHORE TO THE NORTHWARD, AND OF THE COUNTRY TO +THE SOUTH-EAST.<br> +AFFRAY WITH THE NATIVES.<br> +CONTINUED FOUL WEATHER.<br> +PUT TO SEA.<br> +COMPELLED AGAIN TO BEACH THE BOATS.<br> +ADJACENT COUNTRY EXPLORED.<br> +LAUNCH THE BOATS, AND ENTER NORTHERN MOUTH OF THE GASCOYNE.<br> +CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY.</p> + +<p><a href="#chapter17">CHAPTER 17. FROM THE GASCOYNE TO +GANTHEAUME BAY.</a></p> + +<p>SAIL FROM THE GASCOYNE.<br> +A GALE OF WIND.<br> +REACH BERNIER ISLAND.<br> +DESTRUCTION OF THE DEPOT OF PROVISIONS.<br> +REPAIR DAMAGES, AND RETURN TO THE MAIN.<br> +ANCHOR TO THE NORTH OF THE GASCOYNE.<br> +EXAMINE THE COAST TO THE SOUTHWARD.<br> +ITS CHARACTER.<br> +STEER FROM THE MAIN.<br> +ANOTHER GALE.<br> +LAND ON PERRON'S PENINSULA.<br> +DESCRIPTION OF IT.<br> +ROUND CAPE LESUER.<br> +BEACH THE BOATS.<br> +SAIL AGAIN FOR DIRK HARTOG'S ISLAND.<br> +LAND THERE.<br> +PASS OVER TO THE MAIN.<br> +DESCRIPTION OF THE LAND.<br> +ROUND STEEP POINT, AND PUT BACK AGAIN.<br> +PASSAGE TO GANTHEAUME BAY.<br> +THE INTERVENING COAST.<br> +BOAT TOTALLY WRECKED IN BEACHING IN GANTHEAUME BAY.</p> + +<hr align="center" width="25%"> +<b>ERRATUM.</b> + +<p>Volume 1 Table: for Castles, read Chateaux.</p> + +<hr align="center" width="25%"> +<h2>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.</h2> + +<p>VOLUME 1.</p> + +<p>[1. Map of the District of the River Glenelg, on the +North-Western Coast of Australia, from the surveys of George +Grey, Esquire, by John Arrowsmith.]</p> + +<p><a href="#grey1-02">2. Sandstone Cave with Paintings near +Glenelg River. Drawn on stone by George Barnard from a sketch by +Captain George Grey. M. and N. Hanhart, Lithographic Printers, 64 +Charlotte Street, Rathbone Place.</a></p> + +<p><a href="#grey1-05">3. Diphya, Sp.</a></p> + +<p><a href="#grey1-06">4. Diphya, Sp. (Acalepha.)</a></p> + +<p><a href="#grey1-07">5. Salpa, Sp.</a></p> + +<p><a href="#grey1-08a">6. Hyalea, Sp.</a></p> + +<p><a href="#grey1-08b">7. Physsophora rosacea.</a></p> + +<p><a href="#grey1-08c">8. Erichthus vitreus.</a></p> + +<p><a href="#grey1-09">9. Janthina exigua.</a></p> + +<p><a href="#grey1-10">10. Glaucus, Sp.</a></p> + +<p><a href="#grey1-11">11. Phyllosoma, Sp.</a></p> + +<p><a href="#grey1-12">9. Janthina exigua.</a></p> + +<p><a href="#grey1-13">12. Attack of Natives near Hanover Bay. +Drawn on stone by George Barnard from a sketch by Captain George +Grey. M. and N. Hanhart, Lithographic Printers, 64 Charlotte +Street, Rathbone Place.</a></p> + +<p><a href="#grey1-14">13. Three rows of notches made by people +on the Gouty-Stem Tree.</a></p> + +<p><a href="#grey1-14a">14. Gigantic Ants' Nest and Gouty-Stem +Tree. Drawn on stone by George Barnard from a sketch by Captain +George Grey. M. and N. Hanhart, Lithographic Printers, 64 +Charlotte Street, Rathbone Place.</a></p> + +<p><a href="#grey1-16">15.1. Figure drawn on the roof of Cave, +discovered March 26th.</a></p> + +<p><a href="#grey1-17">15.2. Figure drawn on side of Cave, +discovered March 26th.</a></p> + +<p><a href="#grey1-18">15.3. Oval drawing in Cave, discovered +March 26th.</a></p> + +<p><a href="#grey1-19">15.4. Figure drawn in Cave, discovered +March 26th.</a></p> + +<p><a href="#grey1-20">16. Head cut in Sandstone Rock. Captain +Grey, delt. G. Foggo, Lithographer. M. and N. Hanhart, +Lithographic Printers.</a></p> + +<p><a href="#grey1-21">17. Figure drawn on roof of Cave, +discovered March 29th.</a></p> + +<p><a href="#grey1-22">18. Supposed Native Tombs. Discovered on +the North-Western Coast of New Holland, 7 April 1838. Published +by T. & W. Boone, London.</a></p> + +<p><a href="#grey1-23">19. Nest or Bower of the Chalmydera +nuchalis.</a></p> + +<p>[20. Map and Chart of the West Coast of Australia, from Swan +River to Shark Bay, Including Houtman's Abrolhos and Port Grey, +from the Surveys of Captains Grey, Wickham, and King, and from +other official Documents, compiled by John Arrowsmith.]</p> + +<p><a href="#grey1-24">21. Attack of Natives near Kolaina Plains. +Drawn on stone by George Barnard from a sketch by Frederick C. +Smith, Esquire. M. and N. Hanhart, Lithographic Printers, 64 +Charlotte Street, Rathbone Place.</a></p> + +<hr align="center" width="50%"> +<p><a name="dedication"></a></p> + +<h2>DEDICATION.</h2> + +<h4>TO<br> +THE LORD GLENELG,<br> +UNDER WHOSE AUSPICES,<br> +AS PRINCIPAL SECRETARY OF STATE FOR THE COLONIES,<br> +THE EXPEDITIONS<br> +RECORDED IN THE FOLLOWING PAGES<br> +WERE UNDERTAKEN,<br> +THESE VOLUMES ARE RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED,<br> +IN GRATEFUL REMEMBRANCE<br> +OF HIS ASSISTANCE, HIS COUNSELS, AND HIS KINDNESS,<br> +IN HIS HIGH PUBLIC STATION,<br> +AND<br> +WITH A PROFOUND RESPECT<br> +FOR<br> +HIS PERSONAL AND DOMESTIC VIRTUES.</h4> + +<hr align="center" width="25%"> +<p><a name="preface"></a></p> + +<h2>PREFACE.</h2> + +<p>The following pages contain the results of the author's +travels and residence in the western parts of Australia, between +the years 1837 and 1840, during which period he traversed +extensive regions unknown to the European traveller, and probably +never before trodden by the foot of civilized man.</p> + +<p>It is not alone with gratification of enlightened curiosity +that the countries now first brought to notice are likely to be +objects of interest. A knowledge of the districts lying between +Swan River and Shark Bay cannot but be of importance to future +colonists, whilst the intertropical provinces of the north-west +coasts, distinguished as they are by important peculiarities both +of character and position, are equally calculated to draw the +attention of the literary and enterprising enquirer.</p> + +<p>It only remains to state in a few words the circumstances +under which this work is given to the public.</p> + +<p>The author arrived in England in September, 1840, and was +engaged in preparing his notes for publication when he was +unexpectedly honoured with an appointment which re-called him to +Australia in the month of December following.</p> + +<p>Avocations both of a public and private nature arising out of +that appointment prevented him from carrying his work through the +press during the short period of his residence in this country, +and consequently the final arrangement of the impression and the +duties of typographical revision devolved on others.</p> + +<p>Although no pains have been spared to render these volumes +worthy of the public eye, the circumstances under which they +appear will naturally occasion them to be marked by defects +which, doubtless, would not have escaped the author's notice and +correction had he been present.</p> + +<p>It would be an act of injustice not to express here the +obligations the author is under to Mr. J.E. Gray of the British +Museum for his valuable assistance in whatever relates to natural +history in the body of the work, as well as for the contributions +in the same branch of science which will be found in the +Appendix; nor are his thanks less due to Mr. Adam White for an +interesting paper on the Entomology of Australia; and to Mr. +Gould, who has lately visited that country, for his list of the +Birds of the Western Coast.</p> + +<hr align="center" width="25%"> +<h1>JOURNALS OF EXPEDITIONS OF DISCOVERY.</h1> + +<p><a name="chapter1"></a></p> + +<h2>CHAPTER 1. COMMENCEMENT OF THE EXPEDITION. TENERIFE.</h2> + +<p>GENERAL PLAN AND OBJECTS.</p> + +<p>The Expeditions of which the results are narrated in the +following pages took their origin from a proposition made to +Government by myself, in conjunction with Lieutenant Lushington,* +in the latter part of the year 1836.</p> + +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Now Captain Lushington of the 9th +Foot.)</blockquote> + +<p>At that time a large portion of the western coast and interior +of the great Australian continent had remained unvisited and +unknown; whilst the opinions of the celebrated navigators +Captains Dampier and King, connected with other circumstances, +led to the inference, or at least the hope, that a great river, +or water inlet, might be found to open out at some point on its +western or north-western side; which had then been only partially +surveyed from seaward.</p> + +<p>DESIGN OF THE EXPEDITION.</p> + +<p>Anxious to solve this interesting geographical problem, we +addressed a letter to Lord Glenelg, the Secretary of State for +the Colonies, wherein we offered our services to conduct an +exploration from the Swan River to the northward, having regard +to the direction of the coast, so as to intersect any +considerable body of water connecting it with the interior; and, +in the event of such being discovered, to extend our examination +of it as far as circumstances might admit.</p> + +<p>The letter containing this offer also enumerated several +secondary objects, to which we proposed to direct our attention, +and which were ultimately comprehended in our instructions.</p> + +<p>The offer and suggestions were favourably entertained by Lord +Glenelg, and further communications invited; and, the project +having been favoured by the support of the Royal Geographical +Society, our services were finally accepted by the +Government.</p> + +<p>INSTRUCTIONS.</p> + +<p>More mature consideration however led to a material alteration +in the first plan; for whilst our principal object, namely, the +search for a great river or interior inlet, remained the same, it +was considered, for several reasons, more advisable that the +exploration should commence from the vicinity of Prince Regent's +River, on the north-west coast, and be directed towards the Swan. +I shall pass over the various points of detail which occupied our +time and attention until the moment of departure, as they offer +no matters of general interest. It will be sufficient to say that +everything suggested as likely to be conducive to the success and +utility of the expedition was most liberally granted and +supplied; and, when all was prepared, a letter of instructions +dated the 16th June 1837 was addressed by Lord Glenelg to myself +and Lieutenant Lushington conjointly; which embraced the +following points:</p> + +<p>1. We were to embark in H.M. sloop of war the Beagle, then +fitting out for a survey of the coasts and seas of Australia, +under the command of Captain Wickham, R.N.; and to proceed in +that vessel either to the Cape of Good Hope or to Swan River, as +might ultimately appear best suited to forward the objects of the +expedition.</p> + +<p>2. On our arrival at either of the foregoing places, we were +directed to procure a small vessel to convey the party and stores +to the most convenient point in the vicinity of Prince Regent's +River.</p> + +<p>3. After due examination of the country about Prince Regent's +River we were instructed to take such a course as would lead us +in the direction of the great opening behind Dampier's Land. From +the moment of our arrival at this point our subsequent +proceedings were left more discretionary; but the instructions +continued: "You will use the utmost exertions to penetrate from +thence to the Swan River; as, by adopting this course, you will +proceed in a direction parallel to the unknown coast, and must +necessarily cross every large river that flows from the interior +towards that side of the continent."</p> + +<p>4. That we might have an opportunity, in the event of any +unforeseen difficulties occurring, of falling back upon the +vessel conveying the party, she was not to quit the place where +she might have been left by it until such a time had elapsed, +from the departure of the expedition for the interior, as should +be agreed upon; and, to ensure the observance of this condition, +we were instructed to act by the advice of the local authorities +of the colony where she might be engaged in drawing up the +agreement, as well as in procuring guarantees for its +fulfilment.</p> + +<p>5. The main objects of the expedition were then specified to +be: To gain information as to the real state of North-Western +Australia, its resources, and the course and direction of its +rivers and mountain ranges; to familiarize the natives with the +British name and character; to search for and record all +information regarding the natural productions of the country, and +all details that might bear upon its capabilities for +colonization or the reverse; and to collect specimens of its +natural history.</p> + +<p>6. It was directed that strict discipline should be observed, +and the regulations by which our intercourse with the natives was +to be governed were laid down; after which the instructions +concluded with the following paragraphs:</p> + +<p>No further detail has been given you in these instructions, +for, as you have been made aware of the motives which have +induced his Majesty's Government to send out the expedition, it +is supposed each individual will do his utmost in his situation +to carry these objects out, either by obtaining all possible +information or by such other means as may be in his power.</p> + +<p>Although the instructions regarding the expedition are +addressed to you conjointly as conductors of it, it is necessary +that the principal authority and direction should be vested in +one individual, on whom the chief responsibility would rest.</p> + +<p>It is to be understood that Lieutenant Grey, the senior +military officer, is considered as commanding the party and the +person by whose orders and instructions all individuals composing +the party will be guided and conform.</p> + +<hr align="center" width="25%"> +<p>1837.</p> + +<p>All our preparations being completed, there embarked in the +Beagle, besides myself and Mr. Lushington, Mr. Walker, a surgeon +and naturalist, and Corporals Coles and Auger, Royal Sappers and +Miners, who had volunteered their services; and we sailed from +Plymouth on the 5th July 1837.</p> + +<p>TENERIFE. AQUEDUCT AT SANTA CRUZ.</p> + +<p>The usual incidents of a sea voyage brought us to Santa Cruz +in Tenerife, where I landed on Wednesday 19th July 1837, about 2 +o'clock in the afternoon. There was a sort of table d'hote at 3 +o'clock at an hotel kept by an Englishman, at which I dined, and +was fortunate in so doing as I met there a German and several +English merchants who were principally engaged in the trade of +the country. There was also a gentleman who had been from his +earliest years in the African trade for gums, etc.; and he gave +me many interesting particulars of the wild life the individuals +so occupied are compelled to lead. In the afternoon I made a set +of magnetic observations and then walked out to see the aqueduct; +which at about three-quarters of a mile to the north-east of the +town approaches it by a passage cut through a mountain. The +execution of this work must have been attended with immense +labour, for, although the design is grand and noble, the actual +plan upon which it has been completed was by no means well +conceived. The average depth of this cut is at least one hundred +and twenty feet, its length is about one hundred and eighty, +whilst its breadth in many parts is not more than four.</p> + +<p>Previously to the construction of this aqueduct the town of +Santa Cruz was very badly supplied with water, indeed so much so +that the inhabitants were, at some periods of the year, compelled +to send upwards of three miles for it; but no want of this nature +has ever been experienced since its completion. The expenses of +its construction as also of keeping it in repair are principally +defrayed by a tax upon all wine and spirits actually consumed in +the town.</p> + +<p>The scenery of the country I walked through was bold and +romantic but by no means rich; fig-trees grew wild about the +mountains, and it seemed singular that, whenever I approached +one, the peasants on the adjacent hills shouted out in loud +tones. As far as I could understand the guide, this was done to +deter us from eating the fruits now just ripe, and, upon my +return to the town and making further enquiries, I found that +such was their custom.</p> + +<p>EXCURSION TO ORATAVA.</p> + +<p>July 20th.</p> + +<p>I started at six o'clock with Mr. Lushington for Oratava, +distant about 30 miles from Santa Cruz. We were mounted on small +ponies, admirably adapted to the wretched roads of the country, +and accompanied by two guides who carried our carpet bags.</p> + +<p>CAMELS, MATANZAS, THE GUANCHES.</p> + +<p>The first town we came to was Laguna, which appeared to be of +some importance; it is distant about four miles from Santa Cruz. +On this road we passed many camels laden with heavy burdens; a +circumstance which rather surprised me for I had always imagined +that, owing to the peculiar formation of its foot, the camel was +only fitted for travelling over sandy ground, whilst the way from +Santa Cruz to Laguna is one continued mass of sharp rocks, +utterly unworthy of the name of a road; yet these animals +appeared to move over it without the least inconvenience.</p> + +<p>After leaving Laguna the country for some miles bore a very +uninteresting appearance; for, although apparently fertile, it +was quite parched up by the extreme heat of the sun; our guides, +who were on foot carrying our carpet bags, kept up with us by +running, and, occasionally when tired, catching hold of the +horses' tails to assist themselves along.</p> + +<p>We halted for breakfast at Matanzas (or the place of +slaughter) so called from a dreadful slaughter of the Spaniards +which was here made by the Guanches, the aborigines of the +island. I examined the spot where this occurred; it is a narrow +defile, formed by a precipice on one hand, and perpendicular +rocks on the other, and lies on the only route by which you can +pass across the island from east to west; it was therefore well +adapted for the purposes of savage warfare, and the Guanches here +made the Spaniards pay dearly for the cruelties practised on +themselves.</p> + +<p>All traces of this interesting people, who were eventually +extirpated by the Spaniards, have long since vanished, and, +although I spared no pains, I could glean but little information +about them, but to this subject I will advert again.</p> + +<p>Before breakfast I made a set of magnetic observations, and +then, swallowing a hasty meal, prepared to start. A difficulty +however arose here, for neither Mr. Lushington nor myself spoke a +word of Spanish, although we understood tolerably well what +others said to us; the paying our bill became therefore rather a +matter of embarrassment. One of the guides saw our distress and +made signs that he would arrange matters for us; we accordingly +gave him a dollar. With this he paid the bill and I saw him +receive some change, which he coolly pocketed; I afterwards asked +him for it, but he pretended with the utmost nonchalance not to +understand me; so we saw no more of it.</p> + +<p>SCENERY NEAR ORATAVA.</p> + +<p>In the ride from Matanzas to Oratava the road is wretched but +the scenery compensates for this. Upon arriving at the brow of +the hill above Oratava, a beautiful prospect bursts upon the +sight; directly in front rises the lordly Peak, whilst in the +foreground are vineyards, cottages, and palm-trees; in the centre +stands La Villa, the upper town of Oratava, encircled with +gardens; on the right lies a rich slope running down to the sea +which bounds the prospect on that side; and on the left rise +rocky mountains, for the greater part clothed with wood.</p> + +<p>We now spurred our horses on and, leaving the guides behind, +soon reached La Villa, accompanied by a countryman who had joined +us upon a pony; but, on getting into the town, the melancholy +truth rushed upon my recollection that we could not speak +Spanish: had we remained with our guides this would not much have +signified, for they had been told at Santa Cruz to take us to a +hotel.</p> + +<p>EMBARRASSMENTS ON ARRIVAL THERE.</p> + +<p>Nothing remained now but to do our best to open a +communication; we accordingly accosted a variety of individuals +in English, French, Italian, German--but in vain. Spanish alone +was understood or spoken here; our friend, the countryman, stuck +to us most nobly, he understood us not a bit better than the rest +but saw that we were in distress and would not desert us.</p> + +<p>We at last deliberately halted under a house where we could +get a little shade, for the sun was intensely hot and, a crowd +having soon collected, we harangued them alternately and received +long answers in reply; but, although able to make out a great +deal of what they said, we could not get them to understand a +single word on our part. At length kind fate sent the guides to +our rescue and they led us off direct to the hotel.</p> + +<p>This however brought only partial relief to our wants; we +opened our mouths, and pointed down our throats. So much was +understood and a chicken instantly killed. We laid our heads upon +a table, feigning sleep, and were shown to a wretched room; but +here all converse terminated. Mr. Lushington desired to ascend +the Peak therefore it became necessary that we should hit upon +some means of making them comprehend this; but all efforts were +in vain. At length they proposed to send for an interpreter, +which was accordingly done; but he was at dinner, and could not +then come.</p> + +<p>At last the interpreter arrived, a Spanish Don who had been +for some years resident in a mercantile house in New York; he was +very dirty, but good-natured, and soon made the necessary +arrangements for Mr. Lushington; who for eight dollars was to be +provided with a pony, a sumpter mule, provisions and guides, +taken safely to the top of the Peak and brought back again; which +I thought reasonable enough.</p> + +<p>After these arrangements I managed to scrape some acquaintance +with this Spanish gentleman, who told me to my great edification +that I was in a notorious gambling house. I had been informed at +Santa Cruz that the inhabitants of those islands were dreadfully +addicted to that vice, and I now, from personal observation, +found this was too true.</p> + +<p>After dinner I started to walk to the Port of Oratava, distant +about three miles; there was beautiful scenery the whole way, and +a tolerable road for the island. I called on Mr. Carpenter, the +British Consul, to whom I had a letter, and he made arrangements +for my being admitted to the botanical gardens at six o'clock the +next morning.</p> + +<p>On my return to La Villa all the roues of the town were +assembled at our hotel to eat ices and gamble: I joined them in +the former but not in the latter amusement.</p> + +<p>SPANISH INTERPRETER. MANNERS.</p> + +<p>The gentleman who had acted as interpreter for us was also +there, but I could gain very little further information from him. +He told me that they had just heard George the Eighth, the King +of England, was dead (William the Fourth had just died) and his +knowledge of the other European countries was much upon the same +scale. I found that gambling was here carried on to an extent +which was really deplorable.</p> + +<p>July 21.</p> + +<p>I started at half-past five for the botanic gardens, +diligently inspected them, and afterwards made a set of magnetic +observations; this occupied a large portion of the morning. I +however still had time to geologise for about three hours, and +then rode back to Santa Cruz, where I did not arrive till late at +night.</p> + +<p>STATISTICS OF THE CANARY ISLANDS. TABLES.</p> + +<p>July 22.</p> + +<p>In the morning I renewed my magnetic observations and, having +dined at the table d'hote, I passed the afternoon in calling upon +several persons, and collecting such information regarding the +group of islands as I could pick up. Two statistical tables then +given to me I have here inserted.</p> + +<p>The first shows the extent of the seven larger islands and the +average number of inhabitants in each. On these numbers I think +dependence may be placed, as they nearly agree, in the total, +with that given by Tarrente in the Geografia Universal (1828) who +makes it 196,517, being about 12,000 above the number given by +Humboldt for the gross population at the end of the last +century.</p> + +<p>The second table gives the quantity of the most important +products raised annually in each island.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="grey1-03a"></a><img alt="" src="images/grey1-03a.jpg"></p> + +<p><b>TABLE OF EXTENT AND NUMBER OF INHABITANTS OF THE SEVEN +LARGER ISLANDS.</b></p> +</center> + +<center> +<p><a name="grey1-03b"></a><img alt="" src="images/grey1-03b.jpg"></p> + +<p><b>TABLE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT PRODUCTS OF EACH +ISLAND.</b></p> +</center> + +<p>To these I have added a short table showing the mean heat of +every month at Tenerife, as deduced from a continued series of +daily observations by Dr. Savignon and Mr. Richardson, at Laguna +between the years 1811 and 1818, to which is annexed another of +the quantity of rain which fell during some months of the years +1812 and 1813.</p> + +<p>The two gentlemen who had made these observations having since +died, I was not able to obtain any of the actual thermometrical +observations, but to the son of Mr. Richardson I am obliged for +having allowed me to copy the results contained in these +tables.</p> + +<p>SUMMARY OF OBSERVATIONS MADE BY DR. SAVIGNON* AND MR. +RICHARDSON, AT LAGUNA.</p> + +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Monsieur Savignon, Medecin du +Gouvernement, se distingue par un caractere honorable et des +connoissances etendues dans la profession. Voyage aux Terres +Australes Tome 1 page 21.)</blockquote> + +<p>La temporatura media de la Laguna puedi considerarse de 63 de +Fahrenheit, dentro las casas del centro de la Ciudad, en sombra y +al ayre libre; segun resulta de 8 Anos de observaciones, no +interrumpidas ni un solo dia desde 1811 a 1818.*</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="grey1-04a"></a><img alt="" src="images/grey1-04a.jpg"></p> + +<p><b>METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS AT ORATAVA AND SANTA +CRUZ.</b></p> +</center> + +<blockquote>(*Footnote. The mean temperature of Laguna may be +estimated at 63 degrees of Fahrenheit, within doors, in the +middle of the town; the thermometer being placed in the shade, +and exposed to the air. Result of eight years' uninterrupted +daily observations from 1811 to 1818.)</blockquote> + +<center> +<p><a name="grey1-04b"></a><img alt="" src="images/grey1-04b.jpg"></p> + +<p><b>METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS AT ORATAVA AND SANTA +CRUZ.</b></p> +</center> + +<p>A few observations taken on board the Beagle during the five +days it lay at Santa Cruz seemed to give a mean heat of about 76 +degrees; but it must be remembered that these observations were +made in a vessel lying only about a quarter of a mile from the +shore and exposed to the constant rays of the sun during six days +of a season considered by the inhabitants to be a very warm one. +I do not therefore think that the observations of Dr. Savignon +and Mr. Richardson, taken under such very different circumstances +at Laguna, which Von Buch estimates at 264 toises above the sea, +could be far from the truth.</p> + +<p>The annual mean temperature of Santa Cruz according to Von +Buch is 71 degrees 8' Fahrenheit, or 21 degrees 8' of the +centigrade scale.</p> + +<p>OCCASIONAL VIOLENT STORMS.</p> + +<p>From Mr. Cochrane, a very intelligent English merchant whom I +met there, I obtained much information on various points, and he +brought to my notice the violent storms of wind and rain which +occur on the island occasionally during the rainy season, and +cause great destruction and damage.</p> + +<p>DAMAGE BY STORM OF 1826.</p> + +<p>One had passed over in the month of March of the year I was +there (1837) and I was fortunate enough to obtain an official +account of the damage occasioned by another in November 1826, +which is here annexed. A similar one was experienced, as will be +seen by the table, in January 1812, when 5.24 inches of rain fell +in twenty-four hours.</p> + +<p>En la noche del 7 al 8 de Novembre 1826, se experimento un +temporal de Viento y Agua, que causo on todas les Yslas muchos +estragos. En 8 pueblos de la de Tenerife, se sufrion las +des-gracias que manifiesta el siguente Estado.</p> + +<p>[In the night between the 7th and 8th of November 1826 was +experienced a storm of wind and rain which caused great ravages +in all the islands. In 8 districts of Tenerife were sustained the +losses enumerated below.]</p> + +<p>COLUMN 1: PUEBLOS. Towns.<br> +COLUMN 2: PERSONAS. Persons.<br> +COLUMN 3: CUSAE DESTRUIDAS. Houses Destroyed.<br> +COLUMN 4: ANIMALES. Animals.<br> +COLUMN 5: CASAS ARRUINADAS. Houses Ruined.</p> + +<p>Villa de la Oratava 104 144 591 75.<br> +Puerto de la Cruz 32 31 23 6.<br> +Realejo de Arriba 25 41 - -.<br> +Realejo de Abajo 14 9 - 2.<br> +Guancha 52 72 344 31.<br> +Rambla 10 14 13 -.<br> +Ycod 5 - - -.<br> +Santa Ursula 1 - 38 -.</p> + +<p>VOCABULARY OF THE CANARIAN DIALECTS.</p> + +<p>Sunday July 23.</p> + +<p>I procured a few words of the original languages of the +Guanches from in old government manuscript, and as from this +circumstance no doubt can exist as to its authenticity, I have +inserted them.</p> + +<p>Several of these will be found already published in the +History of the Canary Islands by Glas (page 174) with occasional +slight differences of spelling, whilst the rest, though few in +number, are, as far as I am aware, now first given.</p> + +<p>VOCABULARY OF TENERIFE, OF CANARY AND PALMA.</p> + +<p>Such scanty vocabularies and some mummies from Tenerife, +scattered through the cabinets of the curious in various parts of +Europe, are the only existing records of the race which held +possession of these islands on the descent of John de Betancourt, +about the year 1400, and who were nearly exterminated within +little more than a century after.</p> + +<p>ALGUNAS DICCIONES DE LA LENGUA GUANCHINESA O DE TENERIFE.</p> + +<p>(Some words of the language of the Guanches, or of +Tenerife.)</p> + +<p>COLUMN 1: GUANCHEAN.<br> +COLUMN 2: SPANISH.<br> +COLUMN 3: ENGLISH.</p> + +<p>Achamam : Dios : God.<br> +Achano : Ano : A year.<br> +Achicaxna (Achicarna, Glas.) : Villano : A peasant.<br> +Achimencey : Hidalgo : A nobleman.<br> +Ataman : - : Heaven.<br> +Axa (Ara, Glas.) : Cabra : A Goat.<br> +Banot : Vara Endurecida : A Pole hardened (by fire).<br> +Cancha : Perro : A Dog.<br> +Achicuca : Hijo : A son.<br> +Cichiciquizo : Escudero : A Squire.<br> +Guan (Coran, Glas.) : Hombre : A man.<br> +Guanigo : Cazuela de Barro : An Earthen vessel.<br> +Hara (Ana, Glas.) : Oveja : A Sheep.<br> +Mencey : El Rey : The King.<br> +Oche (Ahico, Glas.) : Mantera : A mantle.<br> +Sigone : Capitan : A Captain.<br> +Tano : Cebada : Barley.<br> +Xerios : Zapatos : Shoes.</p> + +<p>ALGUNAS DICCIONES DE LA LENGUA DE CANARIA.</p> + +<p>(Some words of the language of Canary.)</p> + +<p>COLUMN 1: CANARY.<br> +COLUMN 2: SPANISH.<br> +COLUMN 3: ENGLISH.</p> + +<p>Ahorac : Dios : God.<br> +Almogaron : Adoratorio : A Temple or place of worship.<br> +Amodagas : Varos-tostados : Poles hardened (by fire).<br> +Aramotanoque : Cebada : Barley.<br> +Aridaman : Cabra: A Goat.<br> +Carianas : Espuerta : A Rush or Palm-basket.<br> +Doramas : Narices : Nostrils.<br> +Gofio : Farina de cebada tostada : Flour of baked Barley.<br> +Guanarteme : El Rey : The King.<br> +Guaire : El Consejero : The Councillor.<br> +Magado : Garrote de Guerra : Poles or sticks used as weapons.<br> +Tahagan (Taharan, Glas.) : Oveja : A Sheep.<br> +Tamaranona : Carne Frita : Roasted or broiled meat.<br> +Tamarco : Camisa de pieles : A Garment or shirt of hides or +skins.</p> + +<p>ALGUNAS DICCIONES DE LA LENGUA PALMESA.</p> + +<p>(Some words of the language of Palma.)</p> + +<p>COLUMN 1: PALMA.<br> +COLUMN 2: SPANISH.<br> +COLUMN 3: ENGLISH.</p> + +<p>Abora : Deos : God.<br> +Adijirja : Arroyo : A Rivulet.<br> +Asero : Lugar Fuerte : A Stronghold.<br> +Atinariva : Puerco : A Hog.<br> +Aguayan : Perro : A Dog.<br> +Mayantigo : Pedazo de Cielo : Heavenly.<br> +Tidote : Monte : A Hill.<br> +Tiguevite : Cabra : A Goat.<br> +Tigotan : Cielos : The Heavens.<br> +Yruene : El Diablo : The Devil.</p> + +<p>OF THE OTHER ISLANDS.</p> + +<p>ALGUNAS DICCIONES DE LA LENGUA DE FUERTEVENTURA Y +LANZEROTA.</p> + +<p>(Some words of the language of Fortaventura and +Lanzerota.)</p> + +<p>COLUMN 1: FUERTEVENTURA AND LANZEROTA.<br> +COLUMN 2: SPANISH.<br> +COLUMN 3: ENGLISH.</p> + +<p>Aho : Leche : Milk.<br> +Attaha : Hombre de Valor : A Valiant Man.<br> +Elecuenes : Adoratorio : A Place of devotion.<br> +Guanigo : Cazuela de Barro : An earthen vessel.<br> +Guapil : Sombrero : A Hat.<br> +Horbuy : Cuero : A Skin or Hide.<br> +Maxo (Ma, Glas.) : Zapatos : Shoes.<br> +Tabite : Tarro pequeno : A small earthen pan.<br> +Tamocen : Cebada : Barley.<br> +Tezezes : Varas de Acebucha : Poles of the wild olive tree.</p> + +<p>ALGUNAS DICCIONES DE LA LENGUA DEL HIERRO Y GOMERA.</p> + +<p>(Some words of the language of Ferro and Gomera.)</p> + +<p>COLUMN 1: FERRO AND GOMERA.<br> +COLUMN 2: SPANISH.<br> +COLUMN 3: ENGLISH.</p> + +<p>Aculan : Manteca : Butter.<br> +Achemen : Leche : Milk.<br> +Aemon : Agua : Water.<br> +Banot : Garrote de Guerra : War Clubs.<br> +Ganigo : Cazuela de Barro : An earthen vessel.<br> +Haran : Helocho : Furze.<br> +Fubaque : Reses gordas : Fat cattle.<br> +Guatativoa : Un convita : A gathering to a Banquet.<br> +Tahuyan : Bas quinas : A Petticoat of Skins.<br> +Tamasagues : Veras largas : Long Poles.</p> + +<p>GUANCHE BONE CAVE. AND REMARKS. MARINE BLOWING STONE. It was +in the course of my enquiries for words of the Guanche language +that I accidentally heard yesterday, from an old inhabitant, of +the existence of a cave in the rocks, about 3 miles to the +north-east of Santa Cruz, which it was impossible to enter, but +which, when examined from the sea, could be observed to be full +of bones. This cave, he said, was known to the old inhabitants by +the name of La Cueva de los Guanches; and according to +traditionary report it had been the burying-place of the original +inhabitants of this island. Several English merchants of whom I +made enquiries knew nothing of it, even by report, but the master +of the hotel was aware of its existence and promised to procure +me guides to it. Although this day was Sunday, yet, as I was to +sail in the afternoon, the inducement was too strong to resist, +and I started in a boat at 6 o'clock with Mr. Walker our surgeon, +taking my geological hammer as I intended to return overland.</p> + +<p>When we had proceeded about a mile and a half from Santa Cruz +I was astonished to hear, from the rocks on the shore, a loud +roaring noise, and to see large clouds apparently of ascending +smoke. I landed to ascertain the cause of this, and found it +arose from one of those hollow rocks which are sometimes seen on +our own coast and are known by various names, such as blowing +stones, boiling kettles, etc. etc. I had however never seen one +at all to be compared to this in size. It was formed by a hole in +the rocks through which the water is first poured as the waves +rush in; and then is partly driven out with a loud noise through +a hole far up, and partly returns, in the form of spray, by the +opening through which it was at first impelled. By assuming a +proper position with regard to the sun a most beautiful rainbow +is seen in this spray as it is dashed high into the air, and the +whole is well worthy of a visit. Having collected some shells and +geological specimens we again embarked for the cave.</p> + +<p>On reaching the spot we distinctly observed, from the shore, +the mouths of two caves full of bones. As the Guanches were in +the habit of embalming their dead I entertained hopes of +obtaining from them a mummy, of which there are several preserved +in the Canary Islands. Upon landing however I found that they +were utterly inaccessible, being situated in a perpendicular rock +about 150 feet above the level of high water mark, and a +considerable distance beneath the summit of the cliff. I had +indulged a hope of being able to swing into one of the caves by +means of a rope suspended from the top, but, owing to a large +rock which projects from above quite over their mouths, this +would be very difficult. Several bones had been blown out of the +apertures, which I collected and found them to have belonged to +man, but otherwise displaying nothing remarkable.</p> + +<p>I can scarcely entertain a doubt but these caves really were +the burying-places of the ancient Guanches, yet how they were +approached I cannot conceive; probably there might have been an +entrance to them from the interior of the country. I searched but +my time was short and I could find no traces of such. An +interesting question here remains to be solved and I trust some +future traveller may be induced to attempt it.</p> + +<p>There is only one other supposition I could frame on this +subject, and to this I am led from the fact of the bones lying so +immediately in the caves' mouths. Could a party of the Guanches, +when so oppressed and so cruelly treated by the Spaniards, have +taken refuge by some means in these caverns, and afterwards, from +their retreat being cut off, have found themselves unable to +escape and have here perished miserably; looking out of the +cavern to the last for that assistance they were never doomed to +receive? If they had managed to enter these caves by a narrow +pathway running along the face of the cliffs, which the Spaniards +afterwards destroyed, such an occurrence might readily have taken +place.</p> + +<p>Having completed my examination I dismissed the boat and +walked back to Santa Cruz, from whence we sailed at five o'clock +this evening.</p> + +<p><a name="chapter2"></a></p> + +<h2>CHAPTER 2. TO BAHIA AND THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.</h2> + +<p>ATMOSPHERICAL PHENOMENON AT SEA.</p> + +<p>Nothing important occurred during the voyage from Tenerife to +Bahia; but one atmospherical phenomenon I think is worthy at a +future day of further enquiry.</p> + +<p>I remarked constantly, just at sunset, in these latitudes, +that the eastern horizon was brilliantly illuminated with a kind +of mock sunset. This in a short time disappeared, to be soon +succeeded by another similar in character, but more faint. I +observed at the same time, in the western horizon, the regular +sunset, and then two appearances, like those seen in the east; +perhaps this may be fully accounted for by a triple reflection, +as in the common theory of the rainbow.</p> + +<p>LAND AT BAHIA.</p> + +<p>August 17.</p> + +<p>We came in sight of the coast of South America about noon, and +dropped anchor in the harbour of Bahia at four P.M.; and about +half an hour after I went on shore with Mr. Lushington, a person +of the name of Wilson taking us in his boat: there was a slave in +the boat, and, not knowing that he understood English, I asked +Mr. Wilson several questions about slaves in general, and he gave +me a good deal of information on this subject, mentioning among +other things that the price of a good slave here varied from 90 +to 100 pounds, he happened to state that the slaves were wretched +in their own country, and that frequently large numbers were +sacrificed to their gods. I never saw so fine a burst of natural +indignation as the slave in the boat evinced at this statement; +his lip curled up with scorn, his dark eye grew vividly bright, +and his frame quivered as he made an impassioned reply in +Portuguese; I could not understand all that he said, but caught +enough to know the tenor of it, that "this was not the case; +Englishmen or foreigners never visited his country, so how could +they know." It was not so much what he said but the scornful +bitterness of his manner that made an impression on me, not +easily to be effaced.</p> + +<p>NIGHT WALK.</p> + +<p>I took a night walk in the country this evening and +experienced those wild and undescribable feelings which accompany +the first entrance into a rich tropical country. I had arrived +just towards the close of the rainy season, when everything was +in full verdure, and new to me. The luxuriant foliage expanding +in magnificent variety, the brightness of the stars above, the +dazzling brilliancy of the fireflies around me, the breeze laden +with balmy smells, and the busy hum of insect life making the +deep woods vocal, at first oppress the senses with a feeling of +novelty and strangeness till the mind appears to hover between +the realms of truth and falsehood.</p> + +<p>THE TOWN OF BAHIA.</p> + +<p>The town of Bahia looks very beautiful from the sea; but on +entering you find it dreadfully filthy. The stench of the lower +town is horrible. Even the President's palace is a dirty and +wretched-looking building: his salary, I understand, is 600 +pounds a year. By the last returns the population of the town was +120,000, 100,000 of whom were blacks. All the burdens here are +carried by slaves as there are no carts and the breed of horses +is small, being perfect ponies.</p> + +<p>The exports are cotton and sugar--the cotton chiefly to +Liverpool, the sugar to all European countries but England. Their +imports are English cotton goods and hardware, also various +manufactured goods from Germany. The nuns are famed for the +manufacture of artificial feathers and flowers.</p> + +<p>The fruit here is excellent, the oranges are particularly +fine.</p> + +<p>The merchants in the town are principally English and German. +There is no American house. Several have started but all who made +the attempt have failed.</p> + +<p>You cannot penetrate any great distance into the interior as +there are no roads but only little pathways through the woods. +The Indians are frequently seen very near the town.</p> + +<p>STATE OF SOCIETY.</p> + +<p>This part of Brazil offered the curious spectacle of a great +evil, which has been long suffered to exist and is now advancing, +gradually yet surely, to that state which must entail inevitable +destruction on the existing Government of the country. I allude +to the immense slave population which, owing to a short-sighted +policy, has been allowed to increase so rapidly from the frequent +and numerous importations that at the present moment they are in +the ratio of 10 to 1 to the white population, to whom they are +also, individually, immensely superior in physical strength; the +Brazilians being the most insignificant and feeble race of men I +have ever yet seen.</p> + +<p>DANGERS FROM SLAVE POPULATION.</p> + +<p>The blacks are perfectly aware of their own power, and about +two years ago had arranged a plan for seizing the town and +murdering all the whites with the exception of foreigners; which +miscarried only by the affair being discovered a few hours before +it broke out. This plan was however so wisely and boldly +conceived, both as a whole and in detail, that it alone affords +the most conclusive evidence that the slave population in this +country are by no means deficient either in mental powers or +personal courage.</p> + +<p>The Brazilians themselves are aware of the danger which +threatens them, and yet evince an extraordinary degree of +supineness with regard to it. They have indeed framed certain +regulations as to the slaves being all within their houses at an +early hour of the evening, etc. etc., and these they deem +sufficient for their protection; yet to an unprejudiced observer +it would appear that, unless some much more effective measures +are adopted, within a few years from the present time the whole +of this fine country will be in the hands of the blacks: and +indeed I think one would be justified in concluding that the +moment which produces a person sufficiently intriguing again to +stir up the slaves, and endowed with the firmness and talent +necessary to conduct an emeute of this nature, will be the last +of the Brazilian Empire.</p> + +<p>POLITICAL CONDITION OF THE STATE.</p> + +<p>It is evident from what I have before stated that the only +hope the white population can reasonably entertain of retaining +their present position must be in the most perfect union and +concord amongst themselves, and that, when a unity of design and +action ceases to exist between the different provinces, their +fate is sealed. Yet this circumstance never appears to enter into +their calculations; and at this instant each state is plotting +its separation from the Empire. The inhabitants here openly state +their intention of revolting and declaring their independence, +and Sunday next is even mentioned as the day for the commencement +of the rising.*</p> + +<blockquote>(*Footnote. The revolt broke out on the 7th November +1837 but was suppressed the following month. Great alarm existed +lest the Negro slaves should be induced to take their part +likewise in the conflict between the contending factions. Annual +Register for 1837.)</blockquote> + +<p>It is really strange to one who stands by, a calm unconcerned +spectator, to observe men hurried on by the violence of faction +to their own certain destruction, and to behold them so entirely +blinded by party spirit as not to see that danger which stares +them so openly in the face, that a child could scarcely fail to +detect it.</p> + +<p>The Slave Trade, though nominally abolished, is actively +pursued here, eighty-three slaves having been landed just before +my arrival, and another cargo during my stay.</p> + +<p>The slaves are not only a very superior race of men in point +of physical powers, but, as far as my experience of their habits +went, I found them very moral and honest. Their notions of +religion were however curious. Several were Christians nominally, +but their Christianity consisted in wearing a string of beads +round the neck; and they seriously assured me that those who wore +beads went up to heaven after death, and that those who did not +went down under the waters.</p> + +<p>I talked to many of them about their own land. None had +forgotten it, but they all expressed the most ardent desire to +see it again. They call themselves captives, not slaves, and are +very punctilious upon this point. They labour very hard here, +generally in the town, paying their masters eighteen-pence a day, +and keeping the rest of their earnings for themselves. The rate +of labour must therefore be high; but they wear scarcely any +clothes, and their subsistence, which is jerked beef and beans, +costs but little. The slaves in the country are however all +obliged to work on their owners' plantations.</p> + +<p>All the principal people in the town are concerned in the +slave trade, and their chief wealth consists in the number of +slaves they possess; therefore there is little chance of the +trade being, for many years, totally abolished.</p> + +<p>With regard to the execution of the laws this country is much +in the same state as certain parts of Ireland. Homicide, and +attempts at homicide, by shooting, are frequent; but it is +difficult, if not impossible, to convict the offenders, for he +who renders himself conspicuous in prosecuting parties concerned +in a murder assuredly gets shot at in his turn.</p> + +<p>IMPRESSIONS AND OBSERVATIONS AT SEA. REMARKS ON VOYAGE FROM +BAHIA TO THE CAPE.</p> + +<p>August 25.</p> + +<p>Re-embarked in the Beagle and sailed for the Cape of Good +Hope.</p> + +<p>September 10.</p> + +<p>We had yesterday and all last night a gale of wind, succeeded +this day by a heavy fall of rain. The wind had raised a very high +sea, but when the rain began to fall I heard the captain and +several of the officers remark that the rain would lay the sea; +for the result of their experience was, "that a fall of rain +always beats the sea down." What they had stated would occur took +place in this instance within two or three hours. This shows +forcibly what great results a slight force, continued for a long +time, will produce.</p> + +<p>September 15.</p> + +<p>Whilst standing on the deck of the Beagle this evening we +remarked large luminous spots in the water. They appeared to be +about 12 inches in circumference, were very numerous, and +perfectly stationary. The light they emitted was phosphorescent, +but far brighter than I had ever before witnessed; it was so +vivid as to be distinctly visible for nearly a quarter of a +mile.</p> + +<p>September 16.</p> + +<p>We saw this morning an immense number of fin-backed whales, +some of which were quite close to the vessel. In the course of +half an hour I counted thirty of them. Could they have been +feeding on the phosphorescent animals we saw last night?</p> + +<p>We are today about 600 miles from the Cape, and there is a +strange discordance amongst the elements. From the south-west +comes a long and heavy swell; a strong breeze is blowing from the +east, and threatening clouds spring upwards from the north. These +omens have a meaning. Down to the southward, somewhere off Cape +Horn, there blows a furious gale. The wind will draw round +shortly to the northward. That is the interpretation and the +reading.</p> + +<p>A swell like this one can only witness off the Cape of Good +Hope. It was to me a novel and magnificent sight. Uniform and +lofty ridges of waves advancing in rapid succession, and yet with +so regular and undisturbed a motion that one might easily fancy +these great walls of water to be stationary: yet onward they +moved in uniform and martial order; whilst as the ship rose upon +their crests she seemed to hover for a moment over the ocean in +mid air. And now the wind drew round to the northward and it blew +almost a gale. The vessel felt its power and bent before it. It +was beautiful to watch the process of hand-reefing topsails and +making the vessel snug--the ready obedience to the word of +command and the noiseless discipline with which each duty was +fulfilled. First had the men clustered on the rigging like bees; +then at the word to lay out they fearlessly extended themselves +along the yard-arm, and whilst they took in the reefs the ship +pitched and rolled so heavily that one felt anxious for their +safety: but there they swung securely between high heaven and the +sea.</p> + +<p>SEA-BIRDS.</p> + +<p>The sea-birds held their holiday in the stormy gale. The +lordly and graceful Albatross, whose motion is a very melody, +swept screaming by upon the blast. The smaller Cape pigeons +followed us fast, passing and repassing across the vessel's +track. At last one of them spies a fragment on the waters, which +has been thrown overboard: a moment it hovers above, then plunges +down. But the other birds have seen it too; and all, pouncing on +the spot, move their wings confusedly and seem to run along the +waters with a rapid and eager motion. Now is there discord wild +amongst them. A screaming and diving, swimming and running, +mingled with a chattering noise. No sooner does one gain the +morsel than another tears it from him. Who will be the victor +here? The Albatross; for he sweeps triumphantly over all, swoops +down, and with a scream scares off the timid little multitude; +whilst high above his head he holds his arching wings; and now in +pride and beauty he sits upon the waters and, drifting fast +astern, gradually fades in the twilight.</p> + +<p>What wonder that a sailor is superstitious! Separated in early +youth from his home ere he has forgotten the ghost stories of +childhood, and whilst the young and simple heart still loves to +dwell upon the marvellous, he is placed in such scenes as these: +in the dark night, amidst the din of waves and storms, he hears +wild shrieks upon the air, and by him float huge forms, dim and +mysterious, from which fancy is prone to build strange phantoms; +and oft from aged sailors he gathers legends and wondrous tales +suited to his calling; whilst the narrator's mysterious tone and +earnest voice and manner attest how firmly he himself believes +the story.</p> + +<p>ARRIVAL AT THE CAPE. HIRE THE LYNHER.</p> + +<p>September 21.</p> + +<p>We came in sight of land yesterday evening, and spent the +greater part of the day in beating up False Bay to Simonstown, +where we arrived about half-past six P.M. I instantly landed in a +shore-boat with Lieutenant Lushington and Mr. Walker; and, having +first hurried to Admiral Sir P. Campbell with some letters I had +to him, we forthwith started to ride to Cape Town. Finding that a +vessel for our expedition could be procured here more readily and +economically than at Swan River I determined on making this my +point of departure, and after diligent enquiry I finally hired +the Lynher, a schooner of about 140 tons, Henry Browse master, +and subsequently found every reason to be satisfied, both with +the little vessel and her commander.</p> + +<p>EQUIPMENT AND PLANS. SAIL FOR HANOVER BAY.</p> + +<p>My time was now wholly occupied in completing the preparations +for our future proceedings. I increased my party by a few +additional hands of good character, and thought myself fortunate +in engaging amongst them Thomas Ruston, a seaman who had already +served on the Australian coast under Captain King. On the 12th +October I with great difficulty got my affairs at Cape Town so +arranged as to be able to embark in the evening, and on the +morning of the 13th we hove anchor and made sail.</p> + +<p>The party now embarked consisted of:</p> + +<p>Lieutenant Grey.<br> +Lieutenant Lushington.<br> +Mr. Walker, our Surgeon.<br> +Mr. Powell, Surgeon.<br> +Corporal R. Auger, Corporal John Coles, and Private Mustard of +the Corps of Sappers and Miners.<br> +J.C. Cox, a Stock-Keeper.<br> +Thomas Ruston, a Sailor who had been on the coast of Australia in +the Mermaid with Captain King.<br> +Evan Edwards, a Sailor.<br> +Henry Williams and R. Inglesby, Shoemakers.</p> + +<p>There were besides on board a captain, a mate, seven men, and +a boy.</p> + +<p>The livestock I took from the Cape consisted altogether of +thirty-one sheep, nineteen goats, and six dogs. The dogs were as +follows: one greyhound; one dog bred between a greyhound and a +foxhound; one between a greyhound and a sheepdog; a bull-terrier; +a Cape wolf-dog; and a useful nondescript mongrel.</p> + +<p>RE-EMBARKATION FOR HANOVER BAY.</p> + +<p>The plan that I had finally resolved on adopting was:</p> + +<p>To proceed in the first instance to Hanover Bay, there to +select a good spot on which to form a temporary encampment; and, +having landed the stock, to despatch Lieutenant Lushington with +Cox and Williams in the vessel to Timor for ponies.</p> + +<p>PLANS ON LANDING.</p> + +<p>I selected Cox and Williams for this service because the +former was used to the management of horses on board vessels, and +the latter understanding Dutch was well calculated to act as +interpreter at Timor. During their absence I intended to practise +the party in making short explorations in different +directions.</p> + +<p>Upon the return of the vessel I intended to move the whole +party to some convenient spot to be chosen during their absence, +then to advance, attended only by Coles, and to fix upon the next +spot on our route which I designed to halt at. This plan I +intended to adhere to as much as possible throughout the whole +expedition, namely, never to move the party from one place of +halt until I had chosen the next one. We bore with us tools and +instruments of every description; so that we not only were fully +capable of maintaining ourselves but could literally, if occasion +had required it, have founded the nucleus of a colony.</p> + +<p>Great then was my joy when all my preparations were completed +and I felt the vessel gliding swiftly from Table Bay into that +vast ocean at the other extremity of which lay the land I so +longed to see, and to which I was now bound with the ardent hope +of opening the way for the conversion of a barren wilderness into +a fertile garden.</p> + +<p>Part of my plan was not only to introduce all useful animals +that I possibly could into this part of Australia, but also the +most valuable plants of every description. For this purpose, a +collection had been made at Tenerife by Mr. Walker, under my +direction, and another in South America,* including the seeds of +the cotton plant. From the Cape and from England I had also +procured other useful plants, and had planned that the vessel, on +quitting Timor with the horses, should be filled in every vacant +space with young cocoa-nut trees and other fruits, together with +useful animals such as goats and sheep, in addition to the stock +we conveyed from the Cape.</p> + +<blockquote>(*Footnote. We had been able to introduce several +useful plants into the Cape; amongst others the South American +Yam, which, owing to the quality of the potatoes and their great +fluctuations in price, will eventually be very serviceable to the +colonists, more especially for the use of whalers.)</blockquote> + +<p><a name="chapter3"></a></p> + +<h2>CHAPTER 3. FROM THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE TO HANOVER BAY.</h2> + +<p>NATURAL HISTORY.</p> + +<p>FORSTER'S PACHYPTILA (Pachyptila vittata.)</p> + +<p>October 16.</p> + +<p>I shot a female petrel; it had a nail planted in the heel, but +no thumb; the bill was hooked at the end, the extremity of which +seemed to consist of a distinct piece, articulated with the +remainder; the nostrils were united, and formed a tube laid on +the back of the upper mandible, hence it belonged to the family +of Petrels (Procellariae.)</p> + +<p>Its temperature was 94 degrees.<br> +Length from tip to tip of wing, 2 feet 3 inches.<br> +Length from tip of beak to tip of tail, 1 foot 2.4 inches.<br> +Length from root to tip of tail, 4 inches.<br> +Length of beak, 1.45 inches.<br> +Length of foot, 1.55 inches.<br> +Breadth across body, 2.3 inches.</p> + +<p>Colour of beak and legs black; body white underneath; general +colour above, a light bluish slate, which grows darker in the +head and wing covers; tail tipped with black; the four first wing +feathers tinged with black.</p> + +<p>CAPE PIGEONS.</p> + +<p>I also shot this afternoon three Cape pigeons (Procellaria +capensis) white underneath, spotted black and white above.</p> + +<p>FIRST SPECIMEN--Female.</p> + +<p>Temperature, 98 1/2 degrees.<br> +Length from tip to tip of wing, 2 feet 11.3 inches.<br> +Length from tip of tail to tip of beak, 1 foot 6 inches.<br> +Length from tip of beak, 1.5 inches.<br> +Length from root to tip of tail,4.1 inches.<br> +Length of foot, 2.3 inches.<br> +Breadth across body, 3.2 inches.</p> + +<p>SECOND SPECIMEN.</p> + +<p>Length from tip to tip of wing, 2 feet 5 inches.<br> +Length from tip of tail to tip of beak, 1 foot 5 inches.<br> +Length from tip of beak, 1.5 inches.<br> +Length from root to tip of tail, 4 inches.<br> +Length of foot, 2.3 inches.<br> +Breadth across body, 3 inches.</p> + +<p>THIRD SPECIMEN--Female.</p> + +<p>Length from tip to tip of wing, 2 feet 5.5 inches.<br> +Length from tip of tail to tip of beak, 1 foot 4.6 inches.<br> +Length from tip of beak, 1.3 inches.<br> +Length from root to tip of tail, 4.6 inches.<br> +Length of foot, 2.2 inches.<br> +Breadth across body, 3.4 inches.</p> + +<p>Two species of insects were found in these Cape pigeons.</p> + +<p>The only difference I have been able to observe between the +male and female of these birds is, that the male has the black +spots of rather a deeper hue.</p> + +<p>October 21. Latitude 38 degrees 15 south; longitude 35 degrees +53 minutes east.</p> + +<p>From a variety of observations I am able to bear testimony to +the correctness of a fact that has been before noticed, namely, +that the Medusae invariably live in families. This single +circumstance is remarkable in connection with other points of +natural history since it will tend to explain the reason of +certain classes of Petrels (Procellariae) only visiting +particular parts of the ocean.</p> + +<p>Sunday October 22. Latitude 37 degrees 44 minutes south; +longitude 38 degrees 00 east.</p> + +<p>Caught two small animals, one closely resembling a small +shrimp (Penaeus) but having the head covered with a most +beautiful purple shield. I kept this alive in a jug. The other in +size and appearance exactly like a purple grape (Hyalea) with a +greenish tinge at one extremity surrounding an aperture, and a +distinct aperture at the other extremity. It was 0.4 inches in +diameter, and had the power of emitting a phosphorescent light. I +have since this period found several varieties of this animal; +which, when it expands itself, closely resembles an insect, and +has little wings. Further on will be found a sketch of these +animals in their expanded state. (See illustration, Hyalea figure +1.)</p> + +<p>THE ALBATROSS (Diomedea exulans).</p> + +<p>We caught four of these birds yesterday, from which I made the +following measurements:</p> + +<p>FIRST SPECIMEN. Weight, 19 1/2 pounds.</p> + +<p>Length from tip of wing to tip of wing, 10 feet 2 inches.<br> +Length from tip of beak to tip of tail, 4 feet 0.5 inches.<br> +Length of beak, 6.8 inches.<br> +Length from root to tip of tail, 10.0 inches.<br> +Length of foot, 7.6 inches.<br> +Length of wing, 4 feet 8 inches.<br> +Height from ground, 2 feet 10 inches.<br> +Temperature 98 degrees, the thermometer placed under the tongue +during life. These measurements were all made during the lifetime +of the bird.</p> + +<p>SECOND SPECIMEN. Weight, 15 1/2 pounds.</p> + +<p>Length from tip of wing to tip of wing, 10 feet.<br> +Length from tip of beak to tip of tail, 3 feet 11 inches.<br> +Length of beak, 6.6 inches.<br> +Height from ground to top of head, 2 feet 4 inches.<br> +Temperature 98 degrees.</p> + +<p>THIRD SPECIMEN. The largest bird of the kind I have hitherto +seen.</p> + +<p>Length from tip of wing to tip of wing, 10 feet 8 inches.<br> +Length from tip of beak to tip of tail, 4 feet 6 inches.<br> +Breadth across the body, 8 inches.<br> +Length of bill, 6.7 inches.<br> +Length of foot, 7.5 inches.</p> + +<p>FOURTH SPECIMEN. The same size as the second.</p> + +<p>Length of beak, 6.3 inches.<br> +Length of foot, 6.9 inches.</p> + +<p>The beak of each of these birds during lifetime was of a +beautiful light rose colour; their voice was something like that +of a goose, but rather louder, deeper, and hoarser. If during +life the beak was pressed with the finger it became quite white, +and it was not until the pressure had for some time been removed +that the colour returned. The specimens I have described above +(all males) were quite white underneath; the white above being +speckled with black spots and streaks, sometimes changing to a +brownish hue; the wings were black. We obtained also a female +bird with the following measurements, which has been described as +a distinct species: Length from tip to tip of wing, 7 feet 2 +inches.<br> +Length from tip of tail to tip of beak, 3 feet 5.5 inches.<br> +Length from root to tip of tail, 9 inches.<br> +Length of beak, 4.5 inches.<br> +Length of foot, 5 inches.</p> + +<p>Legs pale flesh colour; beak, black, with a brown-coloured +streak on each side of the lower mandible; the whole body of a +dirty black colour, acquiring a lighter tinge underneath.</p> + +<p>October 30.</p> + +<p>I shot two male specimens of this last bird: the only +distinction between them and the female was that they were rather +smaller, and had a white streak instead of a light brown one on +each side of the lower mandible.</p> + +<p>FIRST SPECIMEN--Male. Weight, 5 1/2 pounds. Length from tip of +wing to tip of wing 6 feet 6 inches.<br> +Length from tip of beak to tip of tail, 2 feet 6 inches.<br> +Length from root to tip of tail, 11 inches.<br> +Length from root to tip of beak, 4 inches.<br> +Length from root to tip of foot, 5 inches.<br> +Length from root to tip of wing, 2 feet 10 inches.</p> + +<p>SECOND SPECIMEN--Male. Weight 7 pounds.</p> + +<p>Length from tip to tip of wing, 6 feet 9 inches.<br> +Length from tip of beak to tip of tail, 2 feet 10 inches.<br> +Length of tail, 10.6 inches.<br> +Length of beak, 4.7 inches.<br> +Length of foot, 5 inches.<br> +Length of wing, 3 feet.</p> + +<p>All the three specimens of this species had a distinct +although minute claw, representing a thumb, upon one leg, thus +apparently forming a link between the genus Procellaria and the +genus Diomedea.</p> + +<p>PACHYPTILA VITTATA.</p> + +<p>Ash-grey above; white in the under parts; quills, +tail-feathers at the tip, and band on the wings when expanded, +brownish-black.</p> + +<p>Length from tip to tip of wing, 2 feet.<br> +Length from tip of beak to tip of tail, 10 inches.<br> +Length from root to tip of tail, 4.3 inches.<br> +Length of beak, 1 inch.<br> +Length of foot, 1.5 inches.<br> +Length of wing, 10.5 inches.</p> + +<p>This bird is of the same species as the one I procured on the +16th of October. I shot it about nine A.M. They are very numerous +in these latitudes; their flight resembles much that of a snipe. +The name by which they are known to the sailors is the +whale-bird; they appear to take their food upon the wing, for I +have never yet seen them sit upon the waters even for a single +second, although I have observed them frequently, and at all +hours; but night and day they hurry on with the same restless, +rapid flight, sometimes going in large flocks; and I have never +upon shore seen so many birds assembled upon a few square miles +as I have sometimes here observed in the open ocean. I never +heard them utter any cry or sound.</p> + +<p>I saw but few Cape pigeons (Procellaria capensis) after +passing the 40th degree of longitude, and neither Cape pigeons +nor albatrosses after passing the 95th degree of longitude, and +32nd parallel of latitude. I have never seen a petrel or bird of +the family Longipennes discharge its oily fluid at anyone who +worried or attacked it; but have almost invariably seen it +involuntarily eject it,when hurt or frightened.</p> + +<p>THE ALBATROSS.</p> + +<p>November 9.</p> + +<p>I caught four albatrosses with a fishing-line; one of them was +a female, the first I had seen. I observed no marked difference +between her and males of the same species, for I have found them +vary much in the dark shades upon their feathers.</p> + +<p>I have yet found no bird of this family whose foot was not +longer than its beak.</p> + +<p>DIOMEDEA EXULANS--Female.</p> + +<p>Length from tip of wing to tip of wing,10 feet 10 inches.<br> +Length from tip of wing, 4 feet 10 inches.<br> +From tip of beak to tip of tail, 4 feet 9 inches.<br> +Length of beak, 7.2 inches.<br> +Length of tail, 9 inches.<br> +Length of foot, 7.5 inches.</p> + +<p>The black and brown marks on this bird were darker than the +corresponding ones on the males.</p> + +<p>I am inclined to think that the chief characteristic that +distinguishes the females from the males in the family +Longipennes is their greater size: my opinion is grounded upon +the following tables, drawn up from careful measurements, made by +myself.</p> + +<p>(TABLE OF FAMILY LONGIPENNES)</p> + +<p>In each of these three instances the female is larger than the +males; they are the only ones I am able to adduce which bear upon +this point.</p> + +<p>November 11. South latitude 30 degrees 47 minutes; east +longitude 100 degrees 21 minutes 15 seconds.</p> + +<p>Being a calm, I gave the men leave to bathe this afternoon, +and was one of the first overboard myself. Within an hour and a +half after we had done bathing, a cry of a shark was raised, and +in truth there was the monster (the first we had seen). I mention +this fact as tending to support what I have often heard stated, +namely, that a shark's sense of smell is so keen that, if men +ever bathe in seas where they are found, a shark is almost sure +to appear directly afterwards. This really occurred in the +present instance.</p> + +<p>We repeatedly caught many little animals which I believe are +the VELELLA of Lamarck. They consist of a flat oval cartilage, on +which they float; there is a mouth in the inferior surface of +this surrounded with many tentacula; on its superior surface is a +crest which remains above water, and the wind blowing against it +turns the animal round; they thus swim with a rotatory motion; +the crest is placed obliquely to the length of the oval +cartilage, and this position of it perhaps assists in producing +the motion; the crest is perfectly transparent, but marked with +little striae; the oval cartilage is marked with concentric +striae, which indicate the lines of its growth; in some this +cartilage is transparent, in others quite blue.</p> + +<p>November 12. South latitude 30 degrees 11; east longitude 100 +degrees 31 minutes 30 seconds.</p> + +<p>We caught several beautiful animals this day, of the Medusae +kind (Diphya). (See Illustration 3, Diphya, Sp.)</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="grey1-05"></a><img alt="" src="images/grey1-05.jpg"></p> + +<p><b>Diphya, Sp.</b></p> +</center> + +Figure 1 represents a section through one of them, the size of +life: the bag (1) is of a delicate bright amber colour. The long +tentacula issuing out are upwards of a foot in length and of a +bright flesh colour. + +<p>Figure 2 is a section across the animal.</p> + +<p>Figure 3 represents the mouth of the large opening at c, d, as +if one was looking down into it.</p> + +<p>Figure 4 upper part; Figure 5 lower; and Figure 6 the perfect +animal.</p> + +<p>Between c d apparently lay the entrance to its mouth; in the +little bag marked (3) its long tentacula were concealed, and +below these lay a little gut marked (4) which communicated with +the point (L) by a small canal: (1) was its swimming apparatus, +and by alternate contractions and expansions of this, it took in +and expelled water, and thus acquired a rapid motion, the pointed +end (L) moving forwards.</p> + +<p>Its length was 1.7 inches.<br> +Breadth, 0.7 inches.<br> +Thickness, 0.35 inches.<br> +Temperature the same as the water, 65 degrees Fahrenheit.</p> + +<p>The sketch Illustration 4, Diphya, Sp. gives a faint idea of +the most beautiful animal of this kind which I have ever seen. It +was so delicate that, with the slightest touch, portions of it +came off, hence the specimen we obtained is I fear useless. The +body consisted only of a central canal, to which were attached a +number of gelatinous bags, with large lateral openings, so large +that other zoophytes were caught in them, and apparently annoyed +the animal; who continued throwing water out until it expelled +them. The whole was surmounted by a number of the most beautiful +rose-coloured tentacula: I counted eleven on it, and found four +more that were torn off, but there may have been more. Its top, +when looked into closely, resembled some of the sea anemones; and +inside of the large bright orange-coloured tentacula were placed +circular rows of smaller ones. Its body was quite transparent, +with the exception of the central canal, which was of a +milk-white colour, and terminated in a small sac of the same +hue.</p> + +<p>It moved in a direction opposite to the tentacula, by taking +in water at the lateral openings of the bags, in the position in +which it is represented; then bending these towards the +tentacula, and expelling it with great violence.</p> + +<p>Temperature the same as the water, 65 degrees Fahrenheit.</p> + +<p>Length of body (to tentacula from root of tail-like canal) 1.8 +inches.<br> +Length of tentacula, 1.2 inches.<br> +Length of tail-like canal, 0.45 inches.<br> +Breadth, 1.1 inches.<br> +Thickness, 0.8 inches.</p> + +<p>Long tentacula, flesh-coloured; large tentacula, +rose-coloured; lateral bags, tinged with clear amber; the rest of +the animal perfectly transparent.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="grey1-06"></a><img alt="" src="images/grey1-06.jpg"></p> + +<p><b>4. Diphya, Sp. (Acalepha.)</b></p> +</center> + +<p>We this evening caught several curious little animals (Clio ?) +which when taken out of the water appeared like small balls of +the same matter as that of which a slug is composed. Presently a +little head peered out, then the body expanded itself, and +finally two little things like wings were spread forth, formed of +a fine membrane; they moved these very rapidly, and swam with +great velocity.</p> + +<p>We caught several small crabs, and two kinds of shells, of a +beautiful purple colour. (Janthina exigua.) These were very +small; I have preserved several of them.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="grey1-07"></a><img alt="" src="images/grey1-07.jpg"></p> + +<p><b>5. Salpa, Sp.</b></p> +</center> + +<p>Figures 1, 2, and 3 represent different views of an animal +(Salpa) slightly electrical, that we caught this evening. Figure +1 is its appearance, one side being up; Figure 2 when the other +side is turned up; Figure 3 is the side view of it.</p> + +<p>I have never before seen one of the kind electrical. +Temperature the same as the water, 65 degrees Fahrenheit.</p> + +<p>Length, 1.5 inches.<br> +Breadth, 0.6 inches.<br> +Thickness, 0.3 inches.</p> + +<p>Figure 1. The intestinal canal terminates in a little coloured +bag, generally of a bluish tinge; there is an opening at each +extremity, one a little to the left of the little bag, the other, +as shown in Figures 3 and 1.</p> + +<p>November 13. Latitude 30 degrees 7 minutes south; longitude +100 degrees 50 minutes 10 seconds east.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="grey1-08a"></a><img alt="" src="images/grey1-08.jpg"></p> + +<p><b>6. Hyalea, Sp.</b></p> +</center> + +<p>Figure 1. Represents a little shell (Hyalea) which was caught +this day.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="grey1-08b"></a><img alt="" src="images/grey1-08.jpg"></p> + +<p><b>7. Physsophora rosacea.</b></p> +</center> + +<p>Figure 2. One of the tentacula of the animal I imagine to be +the Physsophora rosacea. The point which is seen obtruding at the +base resembles a little nerve; it runs the whole way down the +tentacula.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="grey1-08c"></a><img alt="" src="images/grey1-08.jpg"></p> + +<p><b>8. Erichthus vitreus.</b></p> +</center> + +<p>Figure 3. A little shrimp-like animal (Erichthus vitreus) +caught on the 14th November, latitude 29 degrees 26 minutes +south; longitude 101 degrees 32 minutes east. Its head was +protected by a shield, such as is shown in the figure.</p> + +<p>We caught this day several other Acalepha, two of which were +of the wonderful genus DIPHYA. I yesterday drew a coloured figure +of the lower part of one of these animals.</p> + +<p>This animal in its perfect state (such as we found it in +today) consists of two individuals, the part of one being encased +in a cavity of the other. Figures 4 and 5 Illustration 4 will +give a correct idea of the way in which this junction is +effected. The least motion separates these two parts, and each +forms a perfect animal, which performs all the functions of life. +This is the more extraordinary, as the containing animal is +furnished with an organ not possessed by the contained, and which +in their united state is used by both. Figure 5. From the little +bag (f) at the bottom of the cavity (g) the receiver produces a +chaplet, which traverses the canal in the received marked (2) in +Figure 6, and which is here drawn the size of life, was sometimes +expanded to the length of one foot eight inches. This organ, +according to M. Cuvier, is composed of ovaries, tentacula, and +suckers.</p> + +<p>The swimming apparatus, marked (1) and (4) in Figure 6, act +simultaneously; they are of a bright amber colour, and their +mouth (a) and (h) are closed with little valves, nearly invisible +even when in motion; the points round their upper aperture seem +to form the hinges for these. In twenty seconds I counted seventy +expansions and dilatations of this apparatus. The chaplet and the +bag that holds it are flesh-coloured; the rest of the body is +gelatinous and diaphanous. They live in families, and swim with +great rapidity in the same manner as the other Acalepha.</p> + +<p>Caught also shells and crabs of the same kind as +yesterday.</p> + +<p>November 14. Latitude 29 degrees 26 minutes south; longitude +101 degrees 2 minutes east.</p> + +<p>Physsophora rosacea, Cuvier, see below. We caught another +animal of the same kind as the one taken on the 12th of November, +and figured in Illustration 7. It was so delicate that I did not +measure it for fear of its falling to pieces, but it appeared to +be exactly the same size as the former one.</p> + +<p>Its circle of large tentacula were of a bright pink, and were +fifteen in number; inside this circle was a smaller one of the +same number of shorter tentacula, which were not quite so bright +a pink colour; in the centre of these were placed organs of a +very extraordinary nature, apparently quite round, and not +thicker than the very finest silk; they were arranged exactly in +the form of a corkscrew, and from the beauty of their mechanism, +the animal could press fold against fold, and thus render them +less than a quarter of an inch in length, and I watched it almost +instantaneously expand them to the length of nine inches. After +having observed the animal closely for an hour I am writing this +with it before me, alive in a large glass bottle of salt water, +and measuring what I put down. The manner in which it expands +these organs is by first uncoiling those folds nearest the body, +and afterwards those most remote; so that when folded up it looks +like a corkscrew with the folds pressed close together, and when +expanded, like a long straight thin bit of flesh-coloured silk, +with a little corkscrew of the same material at the end. The +larger tentacula are shaped like the trunk of an elephant, and +their extremity is furnished with a very delicate organ with +which they can catch anything, and, if touched, they instantly +turn some of these tentacula, which they have the power of moving +in any direction, to the point so touched. They are not +electrical: the lateral bags have a slight tinge of a bright +amber colour. These animals sustain themselves in the water by +means of the little bag marked (a) in the figure, which floats on +the surface full of air, they there swim in the manner before +described. I afterwards observed very minute globules, or lumps, +in the long silk-like tentacula. When expanded these were very +distinct.</p> + +<p>Latitude 29 degrees 26 minutes south; longitude 101 degrees 32 +minutes east.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="grey1-09"></a><img alt="" src="images/grey1-09.jpg"></p> + +<p><b>9. Janthina exigua.</b></p> +</center> + +<p>We caught several small shells (Janthina exigua) this +afternoon: Illustration 9 represents one of them, with the string +of air bubbles attached, by means of which they swim on the +water. They appear not to be able to free themselves from this +mass of bubbles: every shell I have yet found floating in the +Indian Ocean possesses these bubbles in a greater or less degree; +they were of a purple colour. I have seen the common garden snail +in England emit a nearly similar consistency: they also emit a +blue or purple liquid, which colours anything it touches.</p> + +<p>The animals of the barnacles (Pentalasmis) attached to these +shells assume their purple colours, while the shell remains +nearly pure white.</p> + +<p>This afternoon we caught an animal (Glaucus, Illustration 10) +I had not before seen. It seemed to represent the order reptilia +in the Mollusca, being sluggish in movement, its eyes distinct, +sensitive to the touch, its head much resembling a lizard in +appearance, and having a very strong unpleasant smell when taken +out of the water. During the hour I observed it in a bucket it +remained sluggishly floating on the top, and occasionally +swimming by moving its arms slowly along the surface. The first +three that I saw pass the vessel I imagined to be feathers +floating on the water.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="grey1-10"></a><img alt="" src="images/grey1-10.jpg"></p> + +<p><b>10. Glaucus, Sp.</b></p> +</center> + +<p>Its description is as follows:</p> + +<p>Length from head to tail, a c 1.8 inches.<br> +Length from head to root of tail, a b 0.85 inches.<br> +Length from head to first arm 0.2 inches.<br> +Length from head to second arm 0.45 inches.<br> +Length from head to third arm 0.7 inches.</p> + +<p>1st arm.<br> +From centre of back to end of round part, d e 0.3 inches.<br> +From e to the end of short tentacula, e f 0.3 inches.<br> +Ditto to long ditto, e g 0.75 inches.<br> +Diameter of round part and attached tentacula 0.4 inches.</p> + +<p>2nd arm.<br> +From centre of back to end of tentacula. 0.4 inches.</p> + +<p>3rd arm, do. do. 0.25 inches.<br> +Breadth of body between the two first arms 0.13 inches.<br> +Thickness 0.25 inches.</p> + +<p>General colour of body, indigo blue, of a darkish tinge; down +the centre of the back a white streak, terminating at the root of +the tail; sides blue, tail blue, quite white underneath, its +belly altogether resembling that of a frog; tail tapering to a +point.</p> + +<p>1st arm. 26 tentacula attached to the rounded paddle-shaped +part of this arm, the centre tentacle more than twice the length +of the others. These tentacula were so delicate that at the +slightest touch they fell off. Those nearest the body were so +small as to be almost imperceptible, gradually increasing in +length as they approach the centre, and then decreasing to the +other side. Centre of paddle-shaped part white, tentacula blue +and white, fringed with dark blue at the extremity.</p> + +<p>2nd arm. 18 tentacula to this, centre ones the largest. Same +colour as first arm.</p> + +<p>3rd arm. 12 tentacula, not forming such a regular circle as on +the two first arms, and apparently issuing directly from a very +short limb attached to the body.</p> + +<p>The general appearance of the skin was that of a frog. It had +the power of contracting itself considerably.</p> + +<p>Caught a slug-like animal (Holothuria) this evening, or rather +more closely resembling a caterpillar.</p> + +<p>Length from head to root of tail 0.7 inches. Length of tail +(or rather gelatinous protuberance) 0.25 inches. Breadth +(broadest part at root of tail) 0.22 inches. Narrowest part (near +head) 0.15 inches. Length of head 0.12 inches.</p> + +<p>Head of light red colour, mouth apparent, motion of head like +a caterpillar's when touched, shape cylindrical, body gelatinous, +intestines apparent and full.</p> + +<p>November 16. Longitude 102 degrees 40 minutes east; latitude +28 degrees 5 to 6 minutes south.</p> + +<p>Since we have passed the 95th parallel of longitude, and 32nd +of latitude up to the present moment we have been out of the +region of birds, for during the whole of this period I have seen +but two, one of which, a Petrel, has this moment visited us. We +have however seen more Sea-jellies, Acalepha and Mollusca than +before, and those of a much more beautiful kind. Thus nature has +made up for the deficiency of one tribe of animals by the +profuseness with which she has distributed another.</p> + +<p>November 18. Latitude 26 degrees 57 minutes south; longitude +105 degrees 22 minutes east.</p> + +<p>We caught a crustaceous animal (Phyllosoma, see Illustration +11) which was perfectly transparent; it was furnished with twelve +legs on what I considered the hinder part of its body, and four +antennae in front, which have their tips of a bright pink colour, +and two eye peduncles by their side, which terminate in little +bags containing some blue matter (their eyes). It was furnished +also with two legs underneath. These are just shown in the figure +near the centre of the body, and between those underneath the +insect there was a slight projection, with two little lumps on +each side. In this projecting part there appeared to be an +opening. When it was taken out of the water it stood upright on +its legs and crawled a little like a large beetle, but soon died. +In the water it swam with the legs, and the last joint appeared +to be feathered. It will be seen that there is a great +irregularity in the position of the legs of this insect. The +specimen appeared to me to be in some respects imperfect; but I +figured it exactly as it was, without blindly guessing at its +perfect state. It was not thicker than the thinnest wafer. The +back was marked with curved lines, exactly in the manner I have +represented. It shrank instantly when touched. The two last +joints of the long legs were furnished with thorn-like +spikes.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="grey1-11"></a><img alt="" src="images/grey1-11.jpg"></p> + +<p><b>11. Phyllosoma, Sp.</b></p> +</center> + +<p>Length of tail 0.37 inches.<br> +of the body 0.2 inches.<br> +of the thorax and head 0.3 inches.<br> +of the entire animal 1.4 inches.<br> +Breadth of body 0.62 inches.<br> +Ditto of thorax 0.51 inches.<br> +Length of third leg 1.9 inches.<br> +Length of second leg 1.7 inches.<br> +Length of hindermost leg 0.6 inches.<br> +Length of eyes, peduncles 0.4 inches.</p> + +<p>We caught a second animal of exactly the same size as the one +figured, but apparently much more perfect. Each of its tentacula +terminates in a small feathering tip when it is in the water, +like the little figures at the side, and by the help of which +they swim; these have a horny feel to the touch, are destitute of +smell, and look like a transparent scale when they lie in your +hand.</p> + +<p>We also caught this day some little transparent shells +(Cuvieria) of a cylindrical form, and blunt at the end; they put +out two little fins with which they swam.</p> + +<p>I was unfortunately too unwell this day to describe all the +other specimens we caught, which were numerous. The sea was full +of small acalepha, and in the midst of a shoal of these a whale +was seen.</p> + +<p>November 19. Latitude 25 degrees 50 minutes south; longitude +106 degrees 22 minutes east.</p> + +<p>Birds first re-appeared again. I saw a large flock of two +kinds, but was not near enough to ascertain what they were. I +have before noted the fact that almost at the exact point where +the southern birds of the family Longipennes disappeared those +sea-jellies (acalepha) which have the power of stinging, began to +show themselves; previously to our passing this point I had not +seen one: I saw several however today at no great distance from +this flock of birds.</p> + +<p>We saw float by this afternoon one of the acalepha, apparently +about two feet long and shaped generally like a water snake; its +tail had fins like that of an eel, of a purplish tinge; I could +distinctly see its head and various vessels in its interior for +it was quite transparent. We had no net ready but threw a stick +with a piece of string attached to it, the string passed under it +but in pulling up cut through it as though it had been jelly.</p> + +<p>Caught an animal (Cymothoa) shaped exactly like a +woodlouse:</p> + +<p>Length 0.4 inches.<br> +Length of antennae 0.15 inches.<br> +Breadth of body 0.12 inches.</p> + +<p>It had six legs, and a tail-like fin behind on each side, and +nine rings on its back so that it could roll itself almost into a +ball, these rings extended no farther than from its head to +within 0.12 inches of its hinder extremity; colour very pale blue +down the back, bright prussian blue on each side; it crawled +about when taken out of the water, and lived for some time; its +fins, or fin-like legs, when it thus crawled about, were folded +under its tail; eyes distinct.</p> + +<p>MOLLUSCA.</p> + +<p>November 20. Latitude 25 degrees 14 minutes south; longitude +106 degrees 49 minutes east.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="grey1-12"></a><img alt="" src="images/grey1-12.jpg"></p> + +<p><b>9. Janthina exigua.</b></p> +</center> + +<p>A shell, Janthina exigua, was caught this evening, 8 hours 30 +minutes P.M.; when brought directly out of the water into a room +the temperature of the animal was 80 degrees 5'; of room 76 +degrees; colour, dark violet purple over half the opening and +lower part of the shell, so that it gives the animal the +appearance of having been upon a purple-coloured place; this +colour then dies gradually away, and in the smallest whorl of the +shell becomes almost white. They had the power of emitting drops +of a violet colour, and when put into spirits a great quantity of +this issued from the mouth of the shells. We had one evening +before caught a pair of shells of the same species, but much +smaller, at exactly the same hour; in both instances each pair +were caught at the same haul of the net.</p> + +<p>November 23. Latitude 21 degrees 43 minutes south; longitude +109 degrees 43 east. 8 1/2 P.M.</p> + +<p>FLYING FISH.</p> + +<p>A flying-fish (Exocetus) flew on board. Its temperature was 74 +degrees. The colour of its iris was black.</p> + +<p>Length from mouth to end of curve between forks of tail 10 +inches.<br> +From mouth to commencement of wing-like fin 2.7 inches.<br> +Length of wing fin 6.7 inches.<br> +of dorsal fin 2.0 inches.<br> +of pectoral fin 2.2 inches.<br> +of anal fin 1.3 inches.<br> +of upper fork of tail 2.2 inches.<br> +of lower ditto 3.2 inches.<br> +Length from mouth to end of gill 2.2 inches.<br> +Breadth of wing fin 6 inches.<br> +13 spines in each of these wings.<br> +Breadth between eyes 0.11 inches.<br> +Depth of fish 1.6 inches.<br> +Breadth of thickness 1.6 inches.<br> +Diameter of the eye 0.65 inches.</p> + +<p>Under-jaw projecting; sides, pale green; back, blackish-green; +belly, white; five first spines in wing fin, greenish; others +white; wing-fin dark green with a transparent band running nearly +up the centre from the back; pectoral fin, transparent, with a +dark green spot, nearly an inch square, about the centre of its +lowest extremity; tail, dark green, edges light.</p> + +<p>November 26. Latitude 16 degrees 32 south; longitude 117 +degrees east.</p> + +<p>After crossing about the 22nd parallel of south latitude we +fairly entered into the region of flying fish, and dolphins as +they are commonly called; tropic birds were now also frequently +seen, which had not up to this moment been the case; we often +also met hereabouts with a dark-coloured bird with bronzed wings, +having a cry precisely like a Snipe. I know not the name of this +bird. The more beautiful and largest Sea-jellies (acalepha) had +now disappeared, although the more minute ones were as numerous +as ever.</p> + +<p>REMARKS.</p> + +<p>It therefore appears to me that we have, in coming from the +southward to this point, passed through three great regions, or +zones, of animal life, one extending from as far to the southward +as I have yet been, namely 36 degrees south latitude to 31 +degrees south latitude; this zone was inhabited by numerous +Sea-jellies (acalepha) of the smaller kind, by porpoises and +whales, as well as by immense varieties of the Petrels or +Procellariae.</p> + +<p>The second zone extending from 31 degrees south to 22 degrees +south latitude was inhabited by immense numbers of the larger and +more beautiful kind of Sea-jellies (acalepha) particularly by +those that have the power of stinging. Within this zone I saw but +one whale, one shoal of porpoises, and not a single one of the +long-winged water birds or Petrels; in fact I but once in the +whole of this distance saw any birds; there were also here a +great variety and numbers of Sea-jellies (acalepha) of the +smaller kinds. Do then the larger acalepha in this zone perform +the office of the birds in the more southern one, and prey upon +the smaller species of their own kind?</p> + +<p>The third zone is the one with which I have commenced the +journal of this day.</p> + +<p>WATER SNAKES.</p> + +<p>November 29. Latitude 15 degrees 26 minutes 32 seconds south; +longitude 122 degrees 3 minutes east.</p> + +<p>We saw six or seven water snakes (Hydrus) this day, all about +three feet long, of a dirty yellow colour, with black stripes, +the head black, they were furnished with fins like an eel, were +of a very graceful form, and moved on the water exactly like a +snake, with the head a little elevated; when they dived they +turned up on their backs before they sank: we caught one of these +snakes, also a moth and butterfly. A large bat (Pteropus ?) flew +about the vessel this evening and pitched several times on the +boat astern. I once struck it as it passed me, it appeared much +fatigued; we were 150 miles from the main and thirty from the +nearest small sandy island.</p> + +<p>SHARKS.</p> + +<p>We caught two sharks today; the sailors said that they saw +fourteen or fifteen little sharks swimming round one of these, +and that when the bait was thrown into the water and made a noise +some of these swam into her mouth: directly after they had told +me this the shark was caught. I had it opened and four young ones +were found inside, two had never left the uterus, for they were +attached to it at the time, the other two were not so attached, +and were larger than the former, and swam well and strongly when +put into the water: whether or not they had ever left the mother +I cannot of course say. I have preserved two in spirits, one that +was attached and one that was not; two intestinal worms were +found in the stomach of one of the sharks.</p> + +<p><a name="chapter4"></a></p> + +<h2>CHAPTER 4. HANOVER BAY.</h2> + +<p>NEW AND DANGEROUS SHOAL.</p> + +<p>November 29.</p> + +<p>This morning at twenty minutes after nine, when in latitude 15 +degrees 26 minutes 32 seconds and longitude 121 degrees 55 east, +we suddenly made the very unpleasant discovery that we were in +the midst of shoals, owing to some negligence in our lookout. +This was not found out until we were hemmed in between two, one +lying not more than fifty fathoms from our larboard quarter, and +the other about three times the distance on the starboard beam. I +went up to the mast-head, and distinctly saw the rocks, not more +than two or three feet under water on the larboard side. We +fortunately passed through this danger without accident; and, +directly we cleared it, found bottom at twenty-five fathoms, +coarse sand and shells.</p> + +<p>RED ISLAND.</p> + +<p>December 2.</p> + +<p>I was called at four A.M. to keep my watch, and, as soon as I +had ascertained that the men composing it were all present and at +their stations, I went up aloft, and as I anticipated a speck of +land soon appeared above the horizon. This was Red Island. Other +points shortly rose behind it: hill after hill came up into view, +at a distance looking like islands, which indeed many of them +were; but, on a nearer approach, the parts connecting the others +became visible, and the mainland of this vast insular continent +gradually revealed itself to our anxious eyes.</p> + +<p>MAKING THE LAND.</p> + +<p>We stood on until eleven A.M.; but in making land there always +rests a certain degree of anxiety upon the mind of the seaman and +traveller, more especially when that land is imperfectly known. +As there appeared to be every chance of our losing the +sea-horizon, and consequently our noon observation, if we stood +on and the breeze continued, our course was changed to the other +tack until that hour; and then having correctly ascertained our +position, Red Island bearing south-east by east, distance 8 +miles, we once more stood in for the land.</p> + +<p>Red Island is small, rocky, and of no great elevation; its +colour is a very dark red; the sides are precipitous, and in its +centre is a clump of trees which cannot be seen until you have +run by the island, as it falls gradually from the south-west to +the north-east, so that the north-east side is the least +elevated. We sounded when about seven miles to the north-west of +it, and found bottom at twenty-five fathoms, of green sandy +mud.</p> + +<p>The sandbank laid down on the Admiralty charts to the +north-east of Red Island is small and barren; it is very low, and +at some distance looks like a white rock in the water; being +apparently an island formed of the same rock as the former, and +topped with quartz or white sand. In entering Hanover Bay, or +Port George the Fourth, a good course is to run nearly midway +between this and Red Island. At sunset we anchored off Entrance +Island (Port George the Fourth) in twenty-five fathoms water.</p> + +<p>ARRIVAL OFF THE COAST OF AUSTRALIA. ASPECT OF THE COUNTRY FROM +SHIP-BOARD.</p> + +<p>At the first streak of dawn I leant over the vessel's side to +gaze upon those shores I had so longed to see. I had not +anticipated that they would present any appearance of inviting +fertility; but I was not altogether prepared to behold so arid +and barren a surface as that which now met my view. In front of +me stood a line of lofty cliffs, occasionally broken by sandy +beaches; on the summits of these cliffs and behind the beaches +rose rocky sandstone hills, very thinly wooded. Whilst I mused on +this prospect, all hands were busied in getting the vessel under +weigh, which was soon accomplished; but there was little or no +wind, and the ship lay almost motionless upon the waters.</p> + +<p>LAND AT HIGH BLUFF POINT. WALK TO HANOVER BAY.</p> + +<p>By ten o'clock however we were abreast of High Bluff Point +and, as there appeared to be little chance of our having even a +gentle breeze for some time, I determined to land with a party at +the Point, and to walk from thence to Hanover Bay, where on our +arrival we could make a signal to the vessel for a boat to +reconvey us on board. By the adoption of this course I hoped to +be able at once to select a spot affording water and forage, in +the neighbourhood of which the sheep and stores might be landed; +the vessel could then proceed without delay to the Island of +Timor to procure the requisite number of ponies for our +expedition, and, if she made a quick passage there and back, I +trusted, notwithstanding the numerous unforeseen delays that had +arisen, we might yet be able to start for the interior before the +rainy season set in.</p> + +<p>LANDING AND DISTRESS FOR WANT OF WATER ON THE ROUTE.</p> + +<p>The necessary orders were soon given: the boat was lowered +and, whilst the party prepared themselves, I went below to +arrange with the master the precise spot at which the vessel was +to anchor in order that no mistake might occur upon so vital a +point. This done, I returned once more on deck, and found all +ready for departure.</p> + +<p>The party to land consisted of Mr. Lushington, Mr. Walker, and +three men who were selected to accompany us. I also brought away +three of the dogs, to whom I was anxious to give a run after +their long confinement on board.</p> + +<p>The shore for which we pulled was not more than half a mile +distant, and we soon gained the edge of a sandy beach, on which I +sprang, eagerly followed by the rest; every eye beaming with +delight and hope, unconscious as we were how soon our trials were +to commence.</p> + +<p>DISTRESSING MARCH.</p> + +<p>I soon found that we had landed under very unfavourable +circumstances. The sun was intensely hot. The long and close +confinement on board a small vessel had unfitted us all for +taking any violent or continued exercise without some previous +training, and the country in which we had landed was of a more +rocky and precipitous character than any I had ever before seen; +indeed I could not more accurately describe the hills than by +saying that they appeared to be the ruins of hills; composed as +they were of huge blocks of red sandstone, confusedly piled +together in loose disorder, and so overgrown with spinifex and +scrub that the interstices wore completely hidden, and into these +one or other of the party was continually slipping and +falling.</p> + +<p>The trees were small, and their foliage so scant and slight +that they afforded no shelter whatever from the burning rays of +the sun; which appeared to strike up again from the sandstone +with redoubled heat, so that it was really painful to touch or to +stand upon a bare rock: we therefore kept moving onwards in the +hope of meeting with some spot favourable for a halting place; +but the difficult nature of the ground which we had to cross +rendered our progress slow and oppressively laborious.</p> + +<p>A feeling of thirst and lassitude such as I had never before +experienced soon began to overcome all of us; for such a state of +things we had unfortunately landed quite unprepared, having only +two pints of water with us, a portion of which it was necessary +to give to the dogs; who apparently suffered from the heat in an +equal degree with ourselves. These distressing symptoms I can +only ascribe to the extreme heat of the sun reflected from the +sandstone rocks, and our previous long confinement on board.</p> + +<p>LOSS OF OUR THREE DOGS.</p> + +<p>Our small supply of water, although but sparingly used, was +soon exhausted; and the symptoms of lassitude, before so +excessive, now became far worse. As usual, the endurance of the +animals gave way before that of the men. We had not completed +more than a mile of our route (although it was far more if the +ascents and descents were taken into account) when Ranger, a very +fine young dog, dropped behind some rocks, and although we turned +back to look for him directly he was missed he could not be +found.</p> + +<p>The next to give way was Ringhalz, a fine Cape buck-hound; he +fell amongst the rocks, and died almost instantly. The only dog +now left was a greyhound, who manifested his extreme distress by +constantly lying down. For some time we dragged him along, but he +was at last from necessity abandoned. The cry of water was at +length raised by one of the party, and immediately afterwards we +found ourselves on the edge of a deep ravine, the precipitous +sides of which were composed of nearly horizontal layers of red +sandstone. Down these some of us contrived to scramble, although +not without difficulty; but on reaching the bottom we had the +mortification to find the water salt; and as it would have been +very laborious to follow its course along the bottom of the +ravine over the mud, mangroves, and rocks which filled it, we had +the pleasure of scrambling up again as we best could.</p> + +<p>For some short time we remained seated on the edge of the +cliffs above the ravine; but as there was no shelter here from +the sun's rays, and the pangs of thirst were pressing, I roused +the men at last, and moved on again, following the course of the +ravine upwards. We had not walked more than half a mile when the +salt water inlet terminated and the bed of the ravine became +thickly wooded. At the moment we gained this point some white +cockatoos came soaring upwards from beneath our feet; and, as we +knew that this was an infallible sign of the presence of water, +we descended again to renew our search for it.</p> + +<p>WATER DISCOVERED.</p> + +<p>Our efforts this time were successful: in a few minutes we +found a pool of brackish water which appeared, under the present +circumstances, to afford the most delicious draughts, and, having +drunk, we lay down by the pool to rest ourselves. Being however +doubtful as to which was the best route to lead us out of the +ravine we were now in, I walked up its course, accompanied by +Corporal Coles, leaving the others to rest themselves, and soon +reached its head; when we found ourselves in a small but fertile +valley, surrounded on all sides by rocky hills. Here were many +tracks of natives, and we came upon one of their regular haunts, +where they had arranged a circle of large flat stones round a +fireplace occupying the centre; on each of these stones was laid +a smaller one, evidently used for the purpose of breaking small +shellfish, for the remains of the shells were lying scattered +about in all directions;* kangaroo bones were also plentifully +strewed about, and beside each pair of stones was laid a large +shell, probably used as a drinking cup.</p> + +<blockquote>(*Footnote. We found the marks of an encampment of a +tribe of natives. Eight or nine spots were cleared away amongst +the grass, and in the centre of each were the ashes of a small +fire, close to which we noticed some loose flattened stones with +a smaller one lying upon them, which the natives probably used +for the purpose of bruising or grinding the seeds of plants and +breaking shellfish. King's Survey of Australia volume 1 page +302.)</blockquote> + +<p>TRACES OF NATIVES. THEIR HUTS.</p> + +<p>Natives had been at this spot within the last day or two, and +we followed their traces, which were quite recent, across a dry +watercourse till they led to a hut built of a framework of logs +of wood, and in shape like a beehive, about four feet high and +nine in diameter. This hut was of a very superior description to +those I found afterwards to be generally in use in South-Western +Australia, and differed from them altogether in that its low and +narrow entrance rendered access impossible without stooping; and +with the exception of this aperture the hut was entirely +closed.</p> + +<p>PROGRESS TOWARDS HANOVER BAY. ALARMING INCREASING DEBILITY OF +THE MEN. EFFORTS TO REACH THE VESSEL.</p> + +<p>Considering that the best route out of these ravines would be +by this valley, I returned with Coles to the party, whom we found +much refreshed and, having consulted with Mr. Lushington as to +the route we should follow to the vessel after reaching the +valley, we once more moved on; but the same symptoms of lassitude +and thirst began very soon again to afflict us in an aggravated +form; probably from the brackish water we had all swallowed. In +less than two hours more these symptoms became so distressing +that I could scarcely induce the men to move, and we therefore +halted under the shade of some high rocks.</p> + +<p>It was now growing late, and the nature of the country was so +rocky and difficult that I thought it would be impossible for us +to attempt to march in the night-time; whilst on the other hand +the men seemed so completely worn out that I feared another day +without fresh water would be more than they could bear. I +therefore became anxious to make the sea coast before nightfall, +considering that we could easily walk along the shore after dark +and fire a gun as a signal to the schooner to send a boat for us. +With this view therefore I moved on towards the sea, requesting +Mr. Lushington, when I fired, to follow my course with the +men.</p> + +<p>As I walked ahead I found the country very rocky, with lofty +bare pinnacles standing up every here and there in the forest, +one or two of which I climbed, but could see nothing of the +vessel. I now fired a signal shot which, being answered by +another from the party, I knew that they were on my traces, and +again moved on towards the sea. I presently fired again, as I +thought that they might augur favourably from the report, and +continued occasionally to do so until I had reached the +shore.</p> + +<p>The cliffs were so steep that I found some difficulty in +descending, but directly I had gained the sea beach I pulled off +my clothes and plunged into the water: the quantity of moisture +taken into the system by absorption as I lay in the sea soon +relieved my burning thirst, and by the time that the first of the +party (Corporal Coles) came up I was quite recovered. He followed +my example and soon began to revive also. The remainder of the +party now arrived with Mr. Lushington, who had found much +difficulty in getting them along. Of his exertions under these +trying circumstances I cannot speak too highly. But for his +persuasion and example I think two of the men were so exhausted +that they would before this have given up in despair.</p> + +<p>Corporal Coles being now nearly recovered I left the rest of +the party under Mr. Lushington to follow the plan of refreshing +themselves by immersion in the sea and, as two men appeared to me +to be very ill, I arranged with him that he should keep the whole +together and, as soon as he considered them sufficiently +recovered, they should follow myself and Coles; whilst we +preceded them along the beach for the purpose of sending a boat +back from the Lynher to pick them up.</p> + +<p>FURTHER COURSE OBSTRUCTED.</p> + +<p>I accordingly started with Coles and had not proceeded more +than a mile when we found two huts (one in ruins and the other +complete) of exactly the same size and form as that which we had +seen in the morning: the recent track of a native along the beach +close to these was also visible. In another half mile our +progress was arrested by an arm of the sea, about four or five +hundred yards across, from which the tide was running out with +fearful rapidity; and on the opposite cliffs we observed a native +watching our movements.</p> + +<p>As night was coming rapidly on it was necessary for me to +decide at once what I should do. Coles was unable to swim. If +therefore I crossed the stream it must be alone: to do so with +natives on the opposite bank, of whose intentions towards us we +were entirely ignorant, was not without considerable danger; yet +I was very unwilling to leave the men in such a state of +suffering from thirst when I was so near the schooner, from +whence their wants could be supplied. Whilst I was debating what +to do Coles kept firing his gun in hopes that they might hear the +report on board and send a boat to our relief; in vain however we +strained our ears, the report of Coles's gun was reverberated +from cliff to cliff and from hill to hill, but no answering sound +came back across the tranquil water.</p> + +<p>In the meantime I felt more and more anxious about the portion +of the party who were with Mr. Lushington, having left with them +certain orders and promised to send a boat up to them; on which +promise all their further movements would be regulated. The beach +near us afforded no wood wherewith to make a fire as a signal to +the schooner; the cliffs hereabouts were too precipitous to +climb; and it was evident that but very few of the party could +swim so broad a space of water; granting that they ever reached +so far as the point where Coles and myself now were.</p> + +<p>SWIM AN INLET OF THE SEA. DANGER IN THE PASSAGE ACROSS AND +AFTER LANDING.</p> + +<p>I therefore determined to run all risks, and swim the arm of +the sea which stopped our way.</p> + +<p>I directed Coles to wait until the others came up and then to +remain with them until I returned in a boat. From the rugged +nature of the shore I could not have walked a yard without shoes, +so I kept them on, as well as my shirt and military cap, and I +took a pistol in one hand as a means of defence against the +natives, or else to fire it when I reached a spot where it could +be seen or heard from the vessel.</p> + +<p>I plunged in and very soon found myself caught in a tideway so +violent that resistance to its force, so as either to get on or +return, appeared at the moment hopeless.* My left hand, in which +I held the pistol, was called into requisition to save my life; +for the stream washed the cap from my head and, the cap then +filling with water, and being carried down by the strong current, +the chin-strap caught round my neck and nearly throttled me as I +dragged it after me through the water; whilst the loose folds of +my shirt, being washed out to seawards by the tide, kept getting +entangled with my arm. I grew weak and faint but still swam my +best, and at last I providentially reached a reef of rocks which +projected from the opposite shore, and to which I clung until I +had somewhat regained my strength.</p> + +<blockquote>(*Footnote. I should state that the rise and fall of +tide here is thirty-eight feet.)</blockquote> + +<p>DANGER FROM NATIVES.</p> + +<p>I then clambered up on the rocks, and from thence made my way +to the beach; but no sooner had I gained it than I heard a native +call from the top of the cliffs, and the answering cries of his +comrades rang through the wood as they followed me along; my +pistol was so thoroughly soaked in my passage across the inlet +that it was quite useless except as a club. To attempt to swim +back again after the narrow escape I had just had would have been +madness; besides which if I had succeeded I should have lost the +object for which I had put my life at hazard. Nothing therefore +was left but to walk along shore to the schooner, trusting, in my +defenceless state, that I might not fall in with any natives. It +was now dark and the shore was so broken and rocky that I got +terribly cut and bruised, and was, moreover, so weak from my +exertions in swimming that when I arrived opposite the vessel I +could scarcely hail. Some of those on board however heard me (as +I found afterwards) and shouted in reply; but their voices never +reached my ears, and I imagined they were too far for I could not +now see the vessel.</p> + +<p>I made one or two more efforts to hail the Lynher, but the +noise I made had now attracted the notice of the natives and I +heard their cries in several directions round me; this rendered +my situation an unpleasant one for I was worn out, naked, and +defenceless: at first I thought to return and rejoin my party, +and even turned back for a short distance with this intention, +but I found myself too weak for such an undertaking and changed +my plans; resolving to remain nearly opposite to the vessel until +the morning, and resting my chance of safety upon being +discovered from it before the natives found me.</p> + +<p>TAKEN UP BY THE LYNHER'S BOAT.</p> + +<p>With this intent I returned to the position from which I had +lately hailed, and crept into a hole in the rocks whence I could +still occasionally hear the calls of the natives; but, being +thoroughly worn out, I soon forgot my toils and dangers in a very +sound and comfortable sleep. I might have slept for some two +hours when I was roused by hearing a voice shout "Mr. Grey;" +still however feeling rather distrustful of the truth of my +mental impressions, and unwilling to betray my whereabouts to the +natives, I returned no answer, but, putting out my head from my +secret place of rest, I waited patiently for a solution of my +doubts. But again I certainly heard the same voice shout "Mr. +Grey," and I moreover now distinctly recognised the noise of oars +working in the rowlocks; I therefore hailed "Lynher, ahoy," and +all my doubts were completely put at rest by the hearty cheers +which greeted my ear as Mr. Smith, the mate of the schooner, +called out, "Where shall we pull in, Sir?"</p> + +<p>FORTUNATE DELIVERY AND THE PARTY REGAIN THE LYNHER.</p> + +<p>In a few minutes more I was in the boat, and rejoiced to find +all the party safely there before me. My next question was, "Have +you a little water here?" "Plenty, Sir," answered Corporal Cole +as he handed me a little, which I greedily swallowed.</p> + +<p>Their adventures were soon related to me. The party under Mr. +Lushington, being on an exposed part of the coast, the flash of +their guns had been seen after dark, and the Captain despatched a +boat from the schooner to pull along shore. This boat first of +all found Coles near where I had quitted him, and he directed +them to the others; the boat, having picked them up, then +returned for Coles, and heard from him the intentions with which +I had attempted to swim the arm of the sea; but as he had never +seen me reach the opposite bank, and the inlet was of very +considerable width, they had, up to the moment of finding me, +felt very serious misgivings as to my fate.</p> + +<p>I did not know till afterwards that the water Corporal Coles +had handed to me on entering the boat was all they had on board +when he was picked up, and that, although suffering severely from +thirst, Coles would not touch a drop as long as he retained any +hope that I might be found and be in want of it.</p> + +<p>RETURN OF ALL ON BOARD.</p> + +<p>We were now however safe again, and as all had borne +themselves well under the difficulties to which they had been +exposed, more particularly Mr. Lushington, to whom the credit is +due of having, by his personal example and influence, +successfully brought on the party to the point of their +embarkation, it was now pleasant to revert to the trials we had +passed, and to recall to one another's recollection each minute +circumstance of our day's adventures; and when we were again on +board and had turned in for the night I could not help feeling a +deep sense of gratitude to that Providence who, in so brief a +space, had preserved me through so many perils.</p> + +<p><a name="chapter5"></a></p> + +<h2>CHAPTER 5. AT HANOVER BAY.</h2> + +<p>PLAGUE OF FLIES.</p> + +<p>December 4.</p> + +<p>To sleep after sunrise was impossible on account of the number +of flies which kept buzzing about the face. To open our mouths +was dangerous. In they flew, and mysteriously disappeared, to be +rapidly ejected again in a violent fit of coughing; and into the +eyes, when unclosed, they soon found their way and, by inserting +the proboscis and sucking, speedily made them sore; neither were +the nostrils safe from their attacks, which were made +simultaneously on all points, and in multitudes. This was a very +troublesome annoyance, but I afterwards found it to be a very +general one throughout all the unoccupied portions of Australia; +although in general the further north you go in this continent +the more intolerable does the fly nuisance become.</p> + +<p>Sunrise offered a very beautiful spectacle; the water was +quite unruffled, but the motion communicated by the tides was so +great that, although there was not a breath of air stirring, the +sea heaved slowly with a grand and majestic motion. On two sides +the view was bounded by lofty cliffs, from three to four hundred +feet high, lightly wooded at their summits, and broken by wide +openings, into which ran arms of the sea, forming gloomy channels +of communication with the interior country; whilst on each side +of their entrances the huge cliffs rose, like the pillars of some +gigantic portal.</p> + +<p>In front of us lay a smooth sandy beach, beyond which rose +gradually a high wooded country, and behind us was the sea, +studded with numerous islands of every variety of form.</p> + +<p>ENTRANCE TO PRINCE REGENT'S RIVER.</p> + +<p>I was too much tired by the fatigues of the night before to +enjoy the scene with the full delight I should otherwise have +done; the bruises I had received made me feel so stiff and sore +that the slightest movement was painful; the rainy season was +however now so near that it would not do to lose a single day of +preparation. Directly after breakfast therefore, whilst one boat +went off to search for fresh water and a convenient spot to land +the stores at, I accompanied the Captain of the vessel in another +up Prince Regent's River.</p> + +<p>EFFECT OF TIDES.</p> + +<p>In general the openings to these rivers from the sea are very +narrow, forming gorges which terminate in extensive basins, some +fifteen or twenty miles inland; the levels of these reservoirs +are subject to be raised thirty-seven feet by every tide through +their funnel-like entrances, along which the waters consequently +pour with a velocity of which it is difficult to form any +adequate idea. By such a tide were we swept along as we entered +this river by its southern mouth.</p> + +<p>On each side of us rose lofty red sandstone cliffs; sometimes +quite precipitous, sometimes, from ancient landslips, shelving +gradually down to the water, and at these points covered with a +dense tropical vegetation.</p> + +<p>GREEN ANTS.</p> + +<p>At several such places we landed, but always found the ascent +to the interior so covered with large loose rocks that it would +have been impossible to have disembarked stores or stock on any. +The thickness of the vegetation made it difficult to force a way +through, and whenever, in attempting so to do, a tree was shaken, +numbers of a large green sort of ant fell from the boughs on the +unhappy trespasser and, making the best of their way to the back +of his neck, gave warning by a series of most painful bites that +he was encroaching on their domain. Yet it was sometimes +ludicrous to see one of the party momentarily stamping and +roaring with pain, as he cried out to a companion to hasten and +assist him in getting rid of an enemy at once so diminutive and +so troublesome.</p> + +<p>PARRAKEETS.</p> + +<p>We saw a great number of beautiful parakeets, as well as a +remarkable hawk of a bright cinnamon colour, with a milk-white +head and neck. As there was no apparent probability of our +finding hereabouts a spot suited to land our stock and stores at +we returned in the afternoon to the schooner, and found that the +party in the other boat had been as unsuccessful as +ourselves.</p> + +<p>DESCRIPTION OF LANDING-PLACE, AND ENCAMPMENT AT HANOVER +BAY.</p> + +<p>December 5.</p> + +<p>The long-boat was this morning despatched to the ravine where +we had procured water on the first day of our landing to bring a +few casks for immediate use, and to examine the country again in +that direction; whilst I accompanied the Captain to examine the +inlet at which Captain King had watered in his visit to these +parts, in 1821.</p> + +<p>WATERING PLACE AT HANOVER BAY.</p> + +<p>The approach to this watering-place was through a deep narrow +channel, bounded on each side by high cliffs, against which our +voices echoed and sounded strangely; whilst from the quantity of +light which the cliffs excluded a solemn sombre hue was imparted +to the scene. Channels similar to the main one branched off on +each side; they were however so narrow that the dense vegetation +which grew on their sides nearly met in the centre, giving them +an appearance of dark and refreshing coolness; most of these +terminated in cascades, now dry, but down which the water in the +rainy seasons pours in torrents: at the foot of some of these +cascades were deep cavities, or natural basins, worn in the solid +rock by the falling of the water, and these were still full of +the clearest cool water, in which sported small insects and +animals of kinds quite unknown to me.</p> + +<p>As we were swept up the main opening by the tide and +sea-breeze its width gradually contracted, till at last we came +to a small island bearing a single large mangrove tree, which we +named One Tree Island. The shores now became thickly wooded with +mangroves, from the boughs of which depended in clusters small +but well-flavoured oysters, and soon after passing the island we +found our farther progress arrested by large rounded blocks of +sandstone, from amongst which fresh water came pouring in a +hundred little cascades.</p> + +<p>BEAUTIFUL RAVINE.</p> + +<p>We here quitted the boat to enter a deep and picturesque +ravine, of which the mean breadth was only one hundred and +forty-seven feet, bounded on each side by perpendicular cliffs +from one hundred and fifty to two hundred feet high; in the +centre ran a clear stream, sometimes forming deep and extensive +pools, sometimes divided into innumerable little rills which +gurgled along through a dense and matted vegetation; and bordered +on each side of the main bed by a lofty species of Eucalyptus, +with a bark resembling layers of coarse white paper, and a +foliage pendant and graceful; whilst the great height of these +trees for they raised their heads above the cliffs, contrasted +strangely with the narrowness of the ravine in which they grew. +The space between these trees and the cliffs was filled by a +dense forest, principally composed of the Pandanus and wild +nutmeg trees. Rich grasses and climbing plants occupied the +interval and twined around the trees, whilst parakeets of the +most vivid colours filled the wood with their cries. Nothing +could be more striking than this singular and novel scene; and we +were all delighted as we wound our way up the beautiful +ravine.</p> + +<p>The same character continued for the next mile or two, whilst +occasionally branch valleys of similar character ran off from a +main one, giving it at these points a much greater width. The +summit of the cliffs was found to be generally a rocky sandy +tableland, thinly wooded; and from what I had seen it appeared to +me that I was not likely to find a place better adapted for +landing the stores than the main ravine.</p> + +<p>On embarking to return we could perceive no sign of One Tree +Island; and as we swept down towards the sea the leafy top of a +tree seen in the clear water under the boat was the only evidence +of its existence; though a few hours ago it had formed so +prominent an object.</p> + +<p>FATE OF TWO OF THE DOGS.</p> + +<p>The long-boat returned to the vessel half an hour after us and +brought eighty gallons of water; but the spot whence it was +obtained had been found very inconvenient for the purpose. At the +waterhole they had met Ranger, the dog we lost the first day; but +he appeared quite mad, and without recognising any of them ran +wildly away into the woods. The body of poor Ringhalz was also +found, who had died on the spot where he fell.</p> + +<p>LABOUR OF DISEMBARKING STORES.</p> + +<p>December 6.</p> + +<p>A party landed with me soon after dawn at the same point as +yesterday, for the purpose of selecting the spot at which to fix +our temporary encampment. We traced the valley for about four +miles through scenery precisely similar to that which we had +found before; many branch valleys ran of from the main one and +differed from it in no other respect but that they were much +narrower. The most favourable spot I could find for our purpose +was distant about half a mile from the landing-place and situated +at the junction of two valleys, upon a neck of land which ran out +from the base of the cliffs. This was the nearest point to the +sea at which we should have been safe from any sudden inundation; +it combined, moreover, the advantages of affording a good supply +of food and water for the stock, of not being within reach of +missiles thrown from the cliffs, and at the same time of being +situated close to an easy ascent to their summit. I should have +preferred pitching the encampment on the tableland at the top, +but the labour of carrying the stores up so precipitous an ascent +would have been too great for the men, and would have delayed our +movements for a longer time than I thought prudent.</p> + +<p>PREPARATIONS FOR ENCAMPING.</p> + +<p>Having selected the point for our encampment the next task was +to form a pathway to and from the landing-place; and this, on +account of the rocky, broken nature of the ground, was one of no +slight difficulty. We first set fire to the bush, and being thus +enabled to see our way a little we commenced moving the rocks and +stones, and continued this operation until near sunset, when we +returned on board.</p> + +<p>NATIVES SEEN.</p> + +<p>December 7.</p> + +<p>We landed again early this morning and went on working at the +pathway. The men dined on shore at noon, about which time it was +nearly low-water. We had repeatedly seen footmarks of the natives +in the mud, and this probably was a favourite fishing resort of +theirs, for this day they came upon the cliffs over our heads and +shouted at us, as if to try and frighten us away. Finding however +that this produced no effect, they threw down some large stones +at us and then decamped.</p> + +<p>In the course of the night (2 A.M.) we had one of those sudden +heavy squalls from off the land which are so common on this +coast. I slept on deck and was called to hear a loud roaring on +the shore: this was evidently the noise of a rushing wind, which +gradually drew nearer and nearer and at last reached us, +accompanied by lightning, thunder, and heavy rain; it did not +however last for more than twenty minutes, and we received no +damage from it.</p> + +<p>December 8.</p> + +<p>Whilst the party continued the pathway I landed on the sandy +beach and explored the interior of the country for several miles. +We found but very little fresh water and the country was +dreadfully burnt up; the heavy rain which had fallen last night +however gave signs of the approach of the wet season. We passed +several dry watercourses, in many of which we dug for it, but all +that we obtained was brackish. We had another squall this +afternoon, similar to last night's.</p> + +<p>LANDING STOCK. LABOUR IN LANDING STORES.</p> + +<p>December 9.</p> + +<p>This day we pitched the tents, disembarked the sheep and +goats, and some of the stores. It was no slight pleasure to see +for the first time those animals landed on a new country, and +they appeared themselves to rejoice in their escape from the +close confinement on shipboard.</p> + +<p>We here first hoisted the British flag, and went through the +ceremony of taking possession of the territory in the name of Her +Majesty and her heirs for ever.</p> + +<p>The next few days were passed in moving the stores from the +landing-place to the tent; as it was necessary that before I +allowed the schooner to start we should be amply provided with +all necessaries so as to be able to maintain ourselves for some +time, in the event of anything happening to the vessel: this was +very fatiguing work for the whole party but they all exerted +themselves with the most strenuous energy, especially Mr. +Lushington; and our labours were varied by several amusing +novelties which relieved the monotony of the employment.</p> + +<p>REMARKABLE FISHES.</p> + +<p>Sometimes as we sat at our dinner near the landing-place we +watched a strange species of fish (genus Chironectes, Cuvier). +These little animals are provided with arms, at least with +members shaped like such as far as the elbow, but the lower part +resembles a fin; they are amphibious, living equally well on the +mud or in the water; in moving in the mud they walk, as it were, +on their elbows, and the lower arm or fin then projects like a +great splay foot; but in swimming the whole of this apparatus is +used as a fin. They have also the property of being able to bury +themselves almost instantaneously in the soft mud when disturbed. +The uncouth gambols and leaps of these anomalous creatures were +very singular.</p> + +<p>Another remarkable fish was a species of mullet which, being +left by the retreat of the high tides in the pools beyond the +rounded rocks at the head of the landing-place, was obliged to +change its element from salt to fresh water, which by a very +remarkable habit it appeared to do without suffering any +inconvenience. The natural hue of this fish was a very pale red, +but when they had been for some time in the fresh water this +reddish tinge became much deeper, and when of this colour I have +found them in streams a considerable distance from the sea, as +if, like our salmon, they had quitted it for the purpose of +spawning. Indeed birds, insects, and all things we saw, were so +new and singular that our attention was kept constantly excited +by the varied objects which passed before us.</p> + +<p>December 11.</p> + +<p>I went on board in the morning for the purpose of preparing my +letters, and about 10 A.M. it was reported to me that a party of +natives had come down to one of the sandy beaches and were +fishing there. I immediately went upon deck and saw four natives +in the sea opposite to the beach, running about and fishing. +Captain Browne went on shore at once with me to try and parley +with them, but as we approached the land they ran away; we +remained for some time on the beach and tried to follow their +tracks up into the country, but could see nothing more of +them.</p> + +<p>This night at 8 P.M. we had another sudden squall from off the +land, accompanied with thunder, lightning, and heavy rain; it +blew so hard that we were obliged to let go the best bower +anchor, but as usual it only lasted twenty minutes.</p> + +<p>PREPARATIONS FOR SENDING THE VESSEL TO TIMOR.</p> + +<p>As Mr. Lushington was to accompany the schooner to Timor, and +I was anxious to ascertain which would be the best direction for +us to move off in on his return, I determined to commence my +exploring trips as soon as possible. All hands still continued +busily engaged in landing the stores and conveying them to the +tents; but though the men worked hard our progress was slow. +Everything had to be carried on the men's shoulders, for the +path, after the great trouble and labour we had bestowed on it, +was still so intricate and rocky that it was impossible to use +even a hand-barrow. The intense heat of the sun, too, incommoded +the men very much at first; but by the 16th of December all the +stores were landed, and a considerable supply of water was taken +off to the vessel. I determined therefore now to start in my +first exploring excursion, leaving to Mr. Lushington the task of +seeing the watering of the schooner completed before he left for +Timor.</p> + +<p><a name="chapter6"></a></p> + +<h2>CHAPTER 6. HANOVER BAY AND ITS VICINITY.</h2> + +<p>NATIVES SEEN.</p> + +<p>Sunday December 17.</p> + +<p>This morning directly after breakfast I read prayers to the +men, and then commenced my preparations for the excursion on +which I intended to start in the evening. Whilst I was occupied +in arranging my papers Mr. Lushington observed two natives +sitting on the rocks on the top of the cliffs which overlooked +the valley, and gazing down intently on us. The instant that he +made friendly signs to them they rose from their seats and began +to retreat. Some of the party then called to them and one of the +natives answered; but they still moved rapidly away. I would not +allow them to be followed for fear of increasing their alarm, and +in the hope that they would return, but was disappointed. It must +have awakened strange feelings in the breast of these two +savages, who could never before have seen civilized man, thus to +have sat spectators and overlookers of the every action of such +incomprehensible beings as we must have appeared; and the +relation to their comrades of the wonders they had witnessed +could not have been to them a whit less marvellous than the tales +of the grey-headed Irish peasant, when he recounts the freaks of +the fairies, "whose midnight revels by the forest side or +fountain" he has watched intently from some shrub-clad hill.</p> + +<p>COMMENCEMENT OF FIRST EXCURSION.</p> + +<p>I started in the evening, accompanied by Corporal John Coles +and Private R. Mustard, both of the corps of Royal Sappers and +Miners, and for a short distance by two or three others of the +party from the camp. We moved up the ravine in which we were +encamped in a nearly due south direction, and after following +this course about a mile turned up a branch ravine to the left, +bearing 87 degrees from the north.</p> + +<p>CHARACTER OF THE SCENERY. GEOLOGICAL PHENOMENA.</p> + +<p>The romantic scenery of this narrow glen could not be +surpassed. Its width at bottom was not more than forty or fifty +feet, on each side rose cliffs of sandstone between three and +four hundred feet high and nearly perpendicular; lofty paper-bark +trees grew here and there, and down the middle ran a beautiful +stream of clear, cool water, which now gushed along, a murmuring +mountain torrent, and anon formed a series of small cascades. As +we ascended higher the width contracted; the paper-bark trees +disappeared; and the bottom of the valley became thickly wooded +with wild nutmeg and other fragrant trees. Cockatoos soared, with +hoarse screams, above us, many-coloured parakeets darted away, +filling the woods with their playful cries, and the large white +pigeons which feed on the wild nutmegs cooed loudly to their +mates, and battered the boughs with their wings as they flew +away.</p> + +<p>The spot I chose to halt at for the night was at the foot of a +lofty precipice of rocks, from which a spring gushed forth. Those +who had accompanied us from the camp now returned, leaving me and +the two soldiers alone and about to penetrate some distance into +an utterly unknown country. We were each provided with ten days' +provisions and, confident in the steadiness and courage of my +men, I had not the slightest anxiety--feeling that as long as we +maintained a cool and determined bearing the natives would make +no attacks upon us that we could not repel.</p> + +<p>We soon erected a little hut of bark, then kindled a fire and +cooked our supper, consisting of tea and two white pigeons which +we had shot; and by the time our repast was finished it was +nearly dark. My companions laid down to sleep: I remained up for +a short time to think alone in the wilderness, and then followed +their example.</p> + +<p>ASCENT OF A GLEN.</p> + +<p>December 18.</p> + +<p>At break of day we were again upon our route, which lay up the +valley we had slept in; but, as each of us carried ten days' +provisions and a day's water, besides our arms, the progress we +made in a tropical climate, when thus laden, was necessarily slow +and laborious; but the beauty of the landscape and the solicitude +we all felt to see more of this unexplored land cheered us +on.</p> + +<p>TABLELAND AT THE SUMMIT.</p> + +<p>Having at length reached the tableland which this valley +drained we found ourselves in the midst of a forest, differing +widely from anything we had before seen. The soil beneath our +feet was sandy and thickly clothed with spinifex (a prickly +grass) which in spite of our thick trousers slightly but +continually wounded our legs. The trees were lofty and some of +them of considerable circumference; but the trunks of all were +charred and blackened by constant fires: this circumstance, and +their slight and thin, yet strikingly graceful foliage, gave them +a most picturesque appearance.</p> + +<p>Every here and there in the wood rose lofty and isolated +pinnacles of sandstone rock, fantastic in form, and frequently +overgrown with graceful creeping and climbing plants which +imparted to them a somewhat of mystery and elegance. In other +parts rose the gigantic ant-hills so much spoken of by former +visitors of these shores; and in the distance we saw occasionally +the forms of the timid kangaroos, who stole fearfully away from +the unknown disturbers of their solitude.</p> + +<p>ANOTHER VALLEY.</p> + +<p>But when we arrived at the extremity of the tableland I felt +somewhat disappointed at beholding a deep narrow ravine at my +feet, precisely resembling in character the one we had left, and +beyond this a second sandstone range, wooded as that on which we +stood; in about half an hour we gained the bottom of the ravine +and found that a rapid stream ran through it, which, being the +first we had discovered, I named the Lushington, after the father +of my associate in this expedition, and in accordance with a +determination I had made before starting.</p> + +<p>Mustard (one of the men with me) being ill, I determined to +halt here for breakfast and, having completed this meal, I was +sorry to find that he was still too unwell to proceed; such +however being the case I was compelled to halt for the day: +leaving Coles therefore to take care of him, I strolled off to +explore the valley alone. Except in being much larger it differed +in no respect from the first in which we encamped, and I found +that within about half a mile below the spot where I had left the +men it terminated in a salt-water inlet, nearly choked up with +mangroves. On returning to them I found Mustard somewhat better; +to our annoyance however heavy rain set in, accompanied by +thunder and lightning; and as we had no shelter but what some +overhanging rocks afforded us we passed a very uncomfortable +night.</p> + +<p>December 19.</p> + +<p>Mustard was still not quite well; we therefore started late +and travelled slowly, keeping nearly in a south-east direction. +We thus gradually ascended the second sandstone range, the summit +of which was a tableland, at this point about half a mile +wide.</p> + +<p>GEOLOGICAL PHENOMENA.</p> + +<p>We here remarked a very curious circumstance. Several acres of +land on this elevated position were nearly covered with lofty +isolated sandstone pillars of the most grotesque and fantastic +shapes, from which the imagination might easily have pictured to +itself forms equally singular and amusing. In one place was a +regular unroofed aisle, with a row of massive pillars on each +side; and in another there stood upon a pedestal what appeared to +be the legs of an ancient statue, from which the body had been +knocked away.</p> + +<p>Some of these time-worn columns were covered with +sweet-smelling creepers, while their bases were concealed by a +dense vegetation, which added much to their very singular +appearance. The height of two or three which I measured was +upwards of forty feet; and, as the tops of all of them were +nearly upon the same level, that of the surrounding country must +at one period have been as high as their present summits, +probably much higher.</p> + +<p>From the top of one of these pillars I surveyed the +surrounding country and saw on every side proofs of the same +extensive degradation--so extensive, indeed, that I found it very +difficult to account for; but the gurgling of water, which I +heard beneath me, soon put an end to the state of perplexity in +which I was involved, for I ascertained that streams were running +in the earth beneath my feet; and, on descending and creeping +into a fissure in the rocks, I found beneath the surface a cavern +precisely resembling the remains that existed above ground, only +that this was roofed, whilst through it ran a small stream which +in the rainy season must become a perfect torrent. It was now +evident to me that ere many years had elapsed the roof would give +way, and what now were the buttresses of dark and gloomy caverns +would emerge into day and become columns clad in green, and +resplendent in the bright sunshine.</p> + +<p>GRADUAL DEGRADATION OF THE LAND.</p> + +<p>In this state they would gradually waste away beneath the +ever-during influence of atmospheric causes, and the material +being then carried down by the streams, through a series of +caverns resembling those of which they once formed a portion, +would be swept out into the ocean and deposited on sandbanks, to +be raised again, at some remote epoch, a new continent, built up +with the ruins of an ancient world.</p> + +<p>I subsequently, during the season of the heavy rains, remarked +the usual character of the mountain streams to be that they rose +at the foot of some little elevation which stood upon a lofty +tableland composed of sandstone, then flowed in a sandy bed for a +short distance and afterwards mysteriously sank in the cracks and +crevices made in the rocks from atmospheric influences, and did +not again reappear until they had reached the foot of the +precipice which terminated the tableland whence they sprang; here +they came foaming out in a rapid stream which had undoubtedly +worked strange havoc in the porous sandstone rocks among which it +held its subterraneous course.</p> + +<p>What the amount of sand annually carried down from the +north-western portion of Australia into the ocean may be we have +no means whatever of ascertaining; that it is sufficient to form +beds of sand of very great magnitude is attested by the existence +of numerous and extensive sandbanks all along the coast. One +single heavy tropical shower of only a few hours' duration washed +down, over a plot of ground which was planted with barley, a bed +of sand nearly five inches deep, which the succeeding showers +again swept off, carrying it further upon its way towards the +sea.</p> + +<p>The space of ground covered with these columns gradually +contracted its dimensions as we proceeded; the columns themselves +became nearer and nearer to each other until they at length +formed walls of cliffs on each side of us, and we finally reached +a point where a single lofty pillar, standing in front of a dry +cascade, formed the centre of an amphitheatre of sandstone. There +was some water in a little natural basin at the base of the +cliffs. I determined therefore to halt here for breakfast and, +leaving the men at the foot of the cascade to prepare some tea, I +clambered to its summit, and found myself on another tableland +similar to that which I had just left, and covered in the same +manner with natural columns.</p> + +<p>SANDSTONE CAVERNS.</p> + +<p>Some distance from the top of the cascade I discovered a +cavern, or rather huge hole in the water-course, into which, +thinking it might contain fossil bones, I descended as far as the +first ledge, and I then perceived that the water pouring through +this cavern in the rainy season was cutting off another rock of +sandstone similar to the remarkable pillar in front of the +cascade. The water in the basin below must have filtered out from +this cavern. On a further examination I found that a precisely +similar series of operations was going on throughout the whole +amphitheatre of cliffs which bounded the tableland we had been +traversing during the morning.</p> + +<p>In the rainy season (March 7th) I again passed this spot and +found the watercourse full of water, which was also falling +abundantly from the cascade. From this circumstance I inferred +that the subterraneous outlets for the water were all filled, +consequently the large body which these caverns would contain +must have been then endeavouring to force its way through the +fissures in the porous sandstone rocks.</p> + +<p>CONTINUATION OF ROUTE. HALT IN A VALLEY.</p> + +<p>After breakfast we continued on our route through a sandstone +country precisely resembling the one which I have now described, +and in the course of the day, having completed fifteen miles in a +straight line, we halted for the night in a fertile valley +affording plenty of fresh water, and so densely wooded with the +dwarf pandanus and other prickly trees that we could scarcely +make our way through the underwood. In this valley we saw several +sorts of cranes, principally Ardea antigone, and Ardea +scolopacia, and I shot one of the former kind and laid it by, +intending to eat it in the morning. We could not find any holes +in the rocks large enough to protect us from the rain, which fell +throughout the night, accompanied by thunder and lightning.</p> + +<p>December 20.</p> + +<p>Just as we turned out this morning a large kangaroo came close +to us to drink at a waterhole; the effect as it stole along +through the thick bushes in the morning twilight was very +striking. I could not succeed in getting a shot at it; but, as I +was determined to have a meat breakfast, I desired Mustard to +cook the crane, the rats however had eaten the greater part of +it; we therefore at once moved on and, after travelling four +miles in a south-east direction over good land, we reached a +valley, the largest and best I had yet seen, containing trees and +birds such as we had not before met with; kangaroos were more +plentiful, and, for the first time, we saw the opossum. The +valley was more than a mile in width at the point where we first +made it, and we had but just time to cross it and to gain the +partial shelter of some rocks when heavy rain again set in. We +could keep no fire and, being soon wet through, passed a wretched +night.</p> + +<p>December 21.</p> + +<p>We all today began to feel the want of food; since Sunday +night we had subsisted on nothing but rice and tea, and only in +very small quantities at a time, as the heavy rain had materially +interrupted our cooking. As there was plenty of game in this +valley I determined to halt for a day previously to my return to +the party, for the double purpose of exploring the valley and of +shooting game.</p> + +<p>CUCKOO-PHEASANT.</p> + +<p>The large bird which was the most abundant here was the +Cuculus phasianus or pheasant cuckoo. This bird in colour, in +length of tail, in its size, and general appearance so closely +resembles the hen pheasant of England that, when it is on the +wing, it is almost impossible to tell the difference; its habits +and food are also identical with that of the English pheasant. +The chief point of distinction is that its toes point two before +and two behind, in the same manner as those of a parrot; but what +is very remarkable about this bird is that, although, like the +other Scansores, it delights in climbing and running up trees, it +is equally fond of running along the ground in the manner a +pheasant does.</p> + +<p>SPORTING.</p> + +<p>This day I found plenty of these birds in a cover of long dry +grass and bushes about half my height. From this kind of ground I +descended to deep lagoons in the bottoms, with rushes, reeds, and +dense tropical vegetation around them, amongst which the bamboo +and pandanus bore a conspicuous figure; as I beat this cover the +pheasants, with their whirring noise, rose on all sides of me, +and my Westley Richards was kept in constant operation. I never +enjoyed a better day's pheasant shooting in any preserve in +England; and I may here remark that North-Western Australia is as +good a country for sport in the shooting way as I am acquainted +with; whilst for every kind of sport except wild-fowl shooting +the southern part of Australia is the worst country in the world. +My bag being full, and my companions very hungry, I had no excuse +for staying longer away from them, and therefore returned, +although very loth to leave such beautiful scenery and such +excellent sport.</p> + +<p>FERTILE COUNTRY DESCRIED.</p> + +<p>In the interval between the showers, and whilst the men were +trying to kindle a fire, I ascended a sandstone range under the +shelter of some rocks near the summit of which we were encamped; +from this elevated position I saw a far better country to the +south of us than any we had yet traversed; and the prospect was +so cheering in this direction that I felt assured, when it was +once gained with the horses, we should be able to travel on with +comparative rapidity and facility.</p> + +<p>NATIVE HAUNTS.</p> + +<p>Having emptied my bag I started again to commence the +exploration of the valley we were in. It sloped first in a +north-easterly and then in a nearly easterly direction; the river +that ran through it was in some places almost dry, or was rather +a chain of large ponds than a river, several of these ponds being +more than a hundred yards across. I followed the valley down for +about five miles in the direction of Prince Regent's River and +found to my surprise that this part was by no means thinly +inhabited by natives; still, as none of the traces I had yet seen +were very recent, I trusted that we should not fall in with any +considerable body.</p> + +<p>TRACES OF NATIVES.</p> + +<p>At length however I came upon a spot which a number of them +appeared to have quitted only an hour or two before, and where +they had been sitting under a large tree at the edge of one of +these ponds; their recent fire had been first slaked with water +and sand then thrown over it. I knew therefore that they had been +disturbed, and most probably by my gun; but not before they had +made a hearty meal of roasted fresh-water mussels (unios) and +nuts of a kind which grew on a large shady tree in pods, like a +tamarind pod, the kernel being contained in a shell, of which +each pod held several, and the fruit tasting exactly like +filberts. The spot was admirably suited for their purpose; their +bark beds were placed under the shelter of this tree and only a +few yards distant from the pond, which contained abundance of +large unios.</p> + +<p>ATTACK OF NATIVES.</p> + +<p>I sat down under the nut tree to consider what was my best +plan to adopt. From the signs around us the natives were +evidently much more numerous than I had expected: in the event of +anything happening to one of the three our return to the main +party might be considerably impeded, if not altogether prevented; +and although, from the superiority of our weapons over theirs, I +entertained but little doubt as to the issue of any contest we +might be forced into, the calls of humanity as well is of +personal interest warned me to do my utmost to avoid an +affray.</p> + +<p>RETURN TOWARDS HANOVER BAY.</p> + +<p>I returned therefore to the party and, having made our dinner +from pheasant soup and birds which had been first split in two +and then nicely roasted on the ashes, we commenced our journey +homewards, cautiously and circumspectly, that we might run no +risk of being surprised. Until the evening began to close upon us +we pursued our route through scenery similar to that we had +passed the day before, our course laying several miles to the +northward of our former track; and when we halted for the night I +carefully chose a good position and, mentioning my apprehensions +concerning the natives to the men in such a way as to put them on +their guard without exciting their alarm, we bivouacked for the +night. Soon after sunset the thunderstorms of the previous +evening were renewed, accompanied by tremendous rain. This was +unfortunate as it rendered it nearly impossible for us to keep +our arms in an efficient state.</p> + +<p>December 22.</p> + +<p>After passing a wretched and uncomfortable night we started +before dawn, pursuing a direction about west by north, and passed +one of the openings from Prince Regent's River laid down in +Captain King's chart, and there left without a termination, which +I had thus an opportunity of fixing. Having completed about six +miles I halted for breakfast. No signs whatever of the natives +had been again seen; this restored my confidence and, as the sun +was intensely hot and we were much fatigued, we lay about in +rather a careless and imprudent way. Fortunately the gathering +clouds prognosticated that we should soon have rain; and, as we +could get no good shelter where we were, I ordered the men to +move on: we had just gained the top of the range when a violent +storm of rain overtook us, I therefore doubled back about a +hundred yards to the left of our former track to gain some rocks +forming a portion of a detached group upon a tableland, and which +I had observed as we passed them.</p> + +<p>ATTACKED BY NATIVES.</p> + +<p>Scarcely had we reached these rocks, and sheltered ourselves +under the overhanging projections, when I saw a savage advancing +with a spear in his right hand, and a bundle of similar weapons +in his left; he was followed by a party of thirteen others, and +with them was a small dog not of the kind common to this country. +The men were curiously painted for war, red being the predominant +colour, and each man carried several spears, a rowing stick, and +a club. Their chief was in front, and distinguished by his hair +being of a dark red colour from some composition with which it +was smeared; the others followed him close, noiselessly, and with +stealthy pace, one by one, whilst he, crouching almost to the +earth, pricked off our trail.</p> + +<p>We remained concealed and motionless until they had all +passed, but the moment they came to where we had turned off they +discovered our retreat, and raised loud shouts of triumph, as, +forming themselves into a semicircle, they advanced upon us, +brandishing their spears and bounding from rock to rock. It was +in vain that I made friendly signs and gestures, they still +closed upon us, and to my surprise I heard their war-cry answered +by a party who were coming over the high rocks in our rear, which +I had flattered myself protected us in that direction.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="grey1-13"></a><img alt="" src="images/grey1-13.jpg"></p> + +<p><b>12. Attack of Natives near Hanover Bay. Drawn on stone by +George Barnard from a sketch by Captain George Grey. M. and N. +Hanhart, Lithographic Printers, 64 Charlotte Street, Rathbone +Place.</b></p> +</center> + +<p>Our situation was now so critical that I was compelled to +assume a hostile attitude. I therefore shouted in answer to their +cries and, desiring the men to fire one at a time if I gave the +word, I advanced rapidly, at the same time firing one barrel over +their heads. This had the desired effect. With the exception of +one more resolute than the rest they fled on all sides, and he, +finding his efforts unavailing, soon followed their example.</p> + +<p>RETURN TO THE ENCAMPMENT. HANOVER BAY.</p> + +<p>Feeling however that the neighbourhood we were in was a +dangerous one, and being anxious to know whether the party I had +left at the encampment--only six in number--had seen these +natives, I hurried our march, although the rain fell in torrents +all day; and we that night made the camp.</p> + +<p>PROCEEDINGS THERE DURING MY ABSENCE.</p> + +<p>I found the party all in good health and spirits: they had +seen nothing whatever of the natives during my absence. The +sailing of the Lynher had been unfortunately delayed until the +21st of December. On the 18th and 19th the tides had been so low +that, although Mr. Lushington had done his utmost, the schooner +made little or no progress in her watering. On the 20th the crew +and whole party were employed; yet they only succeeded in getting +off 280 gallons for they were obliged to carry the water in small +baricos to the boat, over slippery rocks and deep mud: and on the +21st, thinking it better to complete their water at Timor, they +set sail. This difficulty of watering only arose from the lowness +of the tides (neap) and our ignorance of the country. +Subsequently we found no difficulty in procuring it; indeed no +country in the world is better watered than this portion of +Australia.</p> + +<p>Since the sailing of the Lynher the party had been actively +engaged in building a shed for the stores. This labour was still +continued, after my arrival, and completed on Christmas eve.</p> + +<p>CHRISTMAS DINNER.</p> + +<p>On Christmas Day we all dined together in a little booth made +of boughs, which we dressed up as gaily as we could. I could not +but feel considerable pleasure in seeing the happy countenances +of the men ranged round the rough plank that formed our table. We +sat down, a little band of nine, bound upon an adventure of which +the issue to any and all of us was very uncertain: yet no +forebodings appeared to damp the pleasure of the present moment; +and as I anxiously looked round I could not detect the slightest +trace of a gloomy thought in any of the cheerful faces that +surrounded me. After dinner we drank the Queen's health, the +first time such a toast had been given in these regions; and +then, Mr. Walker and myself retiring to talk alone, left the rest +to their own amusements.</p> + +<p>1838.</p> + +<p>PLANTING USEFUL SEEDS.</p> + +<p>The interval between that and New Year's Day found and left us +full of occupation. On this latter day I had resolved to do +homage to the country by a seasonable gift; and therefore, rising +with the earliest dawn, spent the whole day in planting, in +various positions, seeds of the most useful fruits and +vegetables. Those we had already planted were doing well, and I +hoped that this benefaction might prove one of no small value, +perhaps to civilized man, or at least to the natives of the +vicinity.</p> + +<p>WALK TO MUNSTER WATER.</p> + +<p>January 4.</p> + +<p>A party of us this day walked to Hanover Bay for the purpose +of making some observations on the sandy beach there, after which +we went over to Prince Regent's River, near Munster Water. The +country until near the bank of the river at this point was of the +same sandy nature as that about the beach: there however it +improves; and from the circumstance of my finding a regular haunt +of the natives I feel sure that there is plenty of fresh water in +the neighbourhood. This place of their sojourn resembled one +before described, and many others I had seen. An extensive circle +was formed by laying a large flat stone upon the ground, and on +each of these a smaller one; between the two they evidently +crushed the shellfish and nuts which formed their food. Near some +of the stones were laid huge shells for the purpose of drinking +from; and in the centre of the circle were the marks of frequent +fires. We heard the natives calling to one another in the woods, +but saw none of them; and in the evening returned to our +encampment.</p> + +<p>ISTHMUS NEAR HANOVER BAY.</p> + +<p>January 6.</p> + +<p>I made an excursion this day for the purpose of examining the +land lying between Port George the Fourth and Hanover Bay: it +consists of a low neck which connects the peninsula terminating +in High Bluff Point with the main. Thus it is bounded on two +sides by the sea, and on the other two by rocky hills which are +perfectly precipitous, both towards the main and the peninsula; +but a natural terrace runs along under the cliff in the direction +of Camden Sound, which I believe would form a good road to that +harbour. The tract thus enclosed appears to be very fertile. +Porphyry and basalt are the common rocks. The soil is rich +vegetable mould, mixed with gravel and covered with the most +luxuriant grass. The trees were in general small. We only found +three springs here; these however were sufficient to prove that +it was well supplied in this respect. A species of plant was +observed here, which in appearance and smell exactly resembled +the jasmine of England: and it would be difficult to give any +adequate impression of the singular sensation of pleasure derived +from the sight of this simple emblem of home. Here were regular +beaten tracks of the natives, as completely pathways as those we +find in England leading from a village to a farmhouse.</p> + +<p>HILL OF SHELLS.</p> + +<p>Near the sea we also came upon a complete hill of broken +shells, which it must have taken some centuries to form, for it +covered nearly, if not quite, half an acre of ground, and in some +places was ten feet high: it was situated just over a bed of +cockles, and was evidently formed from the remains of native +feasts, as their fireplaces, and the last small heaps of shells +were visible on the summit of the hill.* This neck of land is +undoubtedly of the first importance; for, lying as it does +between Port George the Fourth and Hanover Bay, it commands two +excellent harbours, and its soil is moreover highly fertile. I +conceive that a point nearer Camden Bay would be of greater +consequence to the mother country; but, after such a spot, this +neck of land is the most important position on the North-west +coast of Australia.</p> + +<blockquote>(*Footnote. A similar mass of shells, though of +smaller dimensions, is spoken of by Captain King, at Port +Essington: A curious mound, constructed entirely of shells, +rudely heaped together, measuring thirty feet in diameter, and +fourteen feet high, was also noticed near the beach, and was +supposed to be a burying-place of the Indians. King's Australia +volume 1 page 87.)</blockquote> + +<p>For some days after our return from this excursion all hands +were occupied in drying the stores, which had suffered a little +from the late rains; in planting barley and potatoes; and in a +variety of occupations of the same nature.</p> + +<p>EXCURSION TO COUNTRY ABOUT PRINCE REGENT'S RIVER.</p> + +<p>As all the necessary magnetic and astronomical observations +were now completed I seized the opportunity offered by the first +favourable day and started with a party of three in the direction +of Prince Regent's River.</p> + +<p>We made the river about Halfway Bay, and then followed its +course, keeping about a mile or two inland. A considerable +portion of the land in the neighbourhood of the river was most +excellent, consisting of rich meadow plains. The general +proportion of good country compared with the bad was still +however but small.</p> + +<p>GOUTY-STEMMED TREES.</p> + +<p>There was a very remarkable feature in the appearance of this +part of the country, caused by the number of gouty stemmed trees +(a species of Capparis ?) These trees grow to a considerable +height, and had the appearance of suffering from some disease, +but, from the circumstance of all of them being affected in the +same way, this was undoubtedly their natural state. I measured +one of the largest I here saw, and found that at eighteen inches +above the ground its circumference was about twenty-eight feet +six inches.</p> + +<p>The foliage of this tree was slight but graceful, and it was +loaded with a fruit of an elliptical form, as large as a coconut. +This fruit was enclosed in a rind, closely resembling that of the +almond, and inside the rind was a shell containing a soft white +pulp, in which were placed a species of almond, very palatable to +the taste, and arranged in this pulp much in the manner in which +the seeds are placed in the pomegranate. Upon the bark of these +trees being cut they yielded in small quantities a nutritious +white gum, which both in taste and appearance resembles macaroni; +and upon this bark being soaked in hot water an agreeable +mucilaginous drink was produced.</p> + +<p>This tree is, from this combination of useful qualities, a +vegetable production of no slight value, and probably comes near +the cocoa-nut tree in value. Its worth is well known to the +natives for its vicinity is one of their favourite haunts. Around +nearly all of them I have found marks of their fires, and on many +of these trees were several successive rows of notches, formed in +this manner:</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="grey1-14"></a><img alt="" src="images/grey1-14.jpg"></p> + +<p><b>13. Three rows of notches made by people on the Gouty-Stem +Tree.</b></p> +</center> + +<p>All but the last row being invariably scratched out. These +rows of notches were evidently of different ages, and I imagine +must indicate the number of nuts taken each year from the tree.* +I often also found rude drawings scratched upon the trees, but +none of these sketches indicated anything but a very ordinary +degree of talent, even for a savage: some were so imperfect that +it was impossible to tell what they were meant to represent.</p> + +<blockquote>(*Footnote. This tree was also observed on this part +of the continent by Captain King, who met with it both at +Cambridge Gulf and Careening Bay, and describes it as follows: +Mr. Cunningham was fortunate in finding the fruit of the tree +that was first seen by us at Cambridge Gulf, and had for some +time puzzled us from its immense size and peculiar appearance. It +proved to be a tree of the Natural Order Capparides, and was +thought to be a Capparis; the gouty habit of the stem, which was +soft and spongy, gave it an appearance of disease; but as all the +specimens, from the youngest plant to the full-grown tree, +possessed the same deformed appearance, it was evidently the +peculiarity of its habit. The stem of the largest of these trees +measured twenty-nine feet in girt, whilst its height did not +exceed twenty-five feet. It bore some resemblance to the +Adansonia figured in the account of Captain Tuckey's expedition +to Congo. King's Australia volume 1 page 423.)</blockquote> + +<center> +<p><a name="grey1-14a"></a><img alt="" src="images/grey1-14a.jpg"></p> + +<p><b>14. Gigantic Ants' Nest and Gouty-Stem Tree. Drawn on stone +by George Barnard from a sketch by Captain George Grey. M. and N. +Hanhart, Lithographic Printers, 64 Charlotte Street, Rathbone +Place.</b></p> +</center> + +<p>SINGULAR PIECES OF SANDSTONE.</p> + +<p>I this day again remarked a circumstance which had before this +period elicited my attention; which was that we occasionally +found fixed in the boughs of trees, at a considerable height from +the ground, pieces of sandstone, nearly circular in form, about +an inch and a half in thickness, and from four to five in +diameter, so that they resembled small millstones. What was the +object in thus fashioning and placing these stones I never could +conceive, for they were generally in the least remarkable spots: +they cannot point out burial places, for I have made such minute +searches that in such a case I must have found some of the bones; +neither can they indicate any peculiar route through the country, +for two never occur near one another.</p> + +<p>PREPARATION TO BUILD A BOAT.</p> + +<p>On my return to the camp I found that the schooner had not yet +arrived; I now began to fear that some accident had occurred, and +made my preparations accordingly. The party was fully prepared to +meet such a misfortune and, as we had the means of constructing a +boat large enough to take us to Swan River, I felt more anxious +for the safety of those in the vessel than for our own. That no +time however might be lost I examined the neighbourhood of the +encampment and found that within our immediate vicinity were +plenty of trees well adapted for the purpose, which I marked, and +had some of them felled.</p> + +<p><a name="chapter7"></a></p> + +<h2>CHAPTER 7. HANOVER BAY AND ITS VICINITY.</h2> + +<p>OCCUPATION AT THE CAMP.</p> + +<p>During the absence of the schooner we had our attention fully +engaged in forming a garden, collecting specimens, and building +sheds for the stores. So difficult and rocky was the country we +were in that I was employed for several days in finding a route +by which unloaded horses could travel from the beach in Hanover +Bay to the point where we were encamped, for the landing-place at +the end of the ravine was so rocky as to be impracticable for +that purpose. Mr. Walker at length discovered a pass in the +cliffs, and by constructing a winding path in this he thought +that we should be able to get loaded horses out of the valley. I +feared that he was too sanguine, and therefore daily renewed my +search in all directions. I travelled up the entire length of the +ravine that we were encamped in but found that, even granting it +was not flooded, we should find great difficulty in emerging by +this route.</p> + +<p>These circumstances made me resolve upon the return of the +schooner to re-embark the stores, and land them again either upon +a point I had fixed upon on the south bank of Prince Regent's +River, or upon the neck of land I have before mentioned, which +lay between Port George the Fourth and Hanover Bay; but I could +not finally decide upon either of the points until the return of +the vessel should enable me to examine the coast between Port +George the Fourth and Camden Sound; for my party only consisted +of nine men, of whom with the exception of three or four I knew +nothing, and after what I had seen of the treacherous disposition +of the natives I did not think, in my position, it would be +prudent to absent myself from them for any length of time.</p> + +<p>RETURN OF THE LYNHER.</p> + +<p>Amidst such exciting and busy scenes, the time flew rapidly +away until the 17th of January, when about 11 A.M. the report of +a carronade came echoing up the valley. This was the preconcerted +signal which was to announce to us that the vessel was safely at +anchor in Hanover Bay. We were of course all anxiety to hear an +account of their adventures, and to ascertain whether the horses +were safe. I hastened directly to the landing-place, where I met +Mr. Lushington and a party coming ashore from the schooner.</p> + +<p>RELATION OF PROCEEDINGS AT KUPANG TIMOR AND ROTI.</p> + +<p>The following outline of their transactions was soon +given:</p> + +<p>They had quitted Hanover Bay on the 21st December at 9 A.M., +and reached Kupang in the Island of Timor on the 1st of January. +For the first three days until they got clear of the land they +had every evening, soon after sunset, heavy squalls from the +north-east, accompanied with thunder, lightning, and rain; the +prevalent wind was however from the north-west. The Lynher +remained at Kupang until the 7th, during which time they +completed their water and collected coconuts, bread-fruit trees, +etc., to be planted in Australia; but as Mr. Lushington found +that he should be able more easily to obtain ponies at the island +of Roti than at Kupang, they sailed on the morning of the 7th for +that place, and at 7 P.M. came to in the harbour of Rougun in +eleven fathoms water, with muddy bottom.</p> + +<p>They were enabled to procure at Roti the requisite number of +horses by the evening of the 11th of January. The people of this +island appeared to be excessively ignorant, knew but little of +the nature and value of money, and were much astonished when they +were shown a watch. Their favourite mode of disposing of their +property was by barter; the articles they prized most were +muskets and coarse gunpowder, but they preferred having the +gunpowder in a claret bottle, as if this was considered by them +to be some definite measure which bore a certain value. They were +not very particular about the quality of the muskets provided +their outward form and appearance were tolerably good. I have +since ascertained that the natives of the little-frequented +islands of the Archipelago invariably prefer an old musket to a +new one, as they conceive a totally new one may be unsafe, from +having been made merely for the purpose of sale; whilst one which +has seen service has been indisputably manufactured for use. If +they entertain any doubt about the goodness of a musket they +generally insist upon the seller's firing it off.</p> + +<p>MODE OF BARTER AT ROTI.</p> + +<p>The people of Roti are not allowed to fix themselves what is +to be the price of their horses; all the details of the sale are +settled by an assemblage of chiefs: their constant cry in +bartering (if anything else is offered to them) is "schnapper, +schnapper" (a musket, a musket). They refused at first to take +percussion guns in exchange, but when they saw Captain Browse +cock one of these, pour a quantity of water over the lock, and +fire it off, their astonishment knew no bounds, and they then +eagerly bartered for them. When they found that all the muskets +were exhausted they were content to take money and other articles +in lieu: an old dress waistcoat of mine and a regulation +breastplate procured eight small sheep; and Captain Browse got +fourteen goats for a pair of old pistols. The authorities give +every encouragement to the trader; but the duties exacted are +high, for at Kupang and Roti they demand six rupees duty for +every horse exported, or musket imported. Arms and gunpowder are +no longer considered contraband.</p> + +<p>The inhabitants of Roti were described as being so indolent +that it was almost impossible to induce them to do anything: +although every means were used to tempt them to cut a sufficient +quantity of fodder for the ponies on their passage they +constantly delayed doing so and, Mr. Lushington's patience being +at last worn out, the vessel put to sea on the 12th of January +1838.</p> + +<p>NEW ISLAND DISCOVERED.</p> + +<p>On the 13th they sighted the Hibernian shoal which they made +in 11 degrees 57 minutes south latitude and 123 degrees 22 +minutes 30 seconds east longitude. On Monday 15th of January at +10 P.M. they discovered an island, thus described in the log of +the Lynher:</p> + +<p>At 10 hours 30 minutes P.M. saw land about a quarter of a mile +ahead; hauled our wind to west by south; sounded in 12 fathoms +water, rocky bottom; it appeared to be about one mile in extent, +and about twenty feet above the water. After running west by +south one mile, got no bottom with 40 fathoms of line. Kept our +course south by east: it (the island) appeared to be quite level +with rocks extending to north-west, with heavy breakers. Made it +by observation south latitude 14 degrees 4 minutes; east +longitude 123 degrees 31 minutes by good chronometer rated at +Roti.</p> + +<p>TROUBLE WITH THE HORSES.</p> + +<p>At 6 A.M. on the morning of the 16th they experienced heavy +squalls of wind off Red Island, and this prevented them from +getting into Hanover Bay on that day; but on the morning of the +17th they anchored safely, without having lost a single pony, or +without having experienced any serious misfortune, having made +the passage from Roti in five days.</p> + +<p>UNFORESEEN EMBARRASSMENTS.</p> + +<p>Some short time was occupied in narrating the adventures we +had respectively encountered since we had last seen one another, +and in giving way to the pleasure arising from meeting again in +so distant a land, and under such circumstances: at last came the +unpleasant announcement that there was not an atom of forage on +board, so that the ponies must of necessity be landed tomorrow; +and my plans of disembarking them at a more eligible site were +thus at once overthrown. Being the only person who knew the route +to Hanover Bay from the encampment, I was obliged to remain on +shore to guide the party over there the next morning. Mr. +Lushington and the Captain however returned on board to make +preparations for landing the horses at daybreak.</p> + +<p>LANDING THE HORSES.</p> + +<p>I lay down to sleep this night oppressed with very uneasy +thoughts. I was thoroughly convinced that the position we +occupied was a bad one to make a start from; but we had already +approached too near the season of the heaviest rains (the +beginning of February) to allow of longer delay, so that to have +landed the horses, then to cut grass for them, and afterwards to +have re-embarked them and the stores, would, in my opinion, have +been a tedious and wrong course to adopt. Unforeseen +difficulties, and against which we could not have guarded, had +already completely encompassed us, so that, considering the +scanty means at our disposal, the remote and unknown region in +which we were situated, and the impossibility of our receiving +further aid from any quarter, I saw no way of overcoming them. +All therefore that was now left us was to make the most of our +actual means, to acquit ourselves like men, and do our +utmost.</p> + +<p>EXCURSION BY WATER TO PRINCE REGENT'S RIVER.</p> + +<p>January 18.</p> + +<p>Fortune smiled on us this morning in as far as she gave us a +fine daybreak, and at dawn we started for Hanover Bay, leaving a +small party at the encampment. After all the trouble I had taken +to find a good route for the horses, we still had a great deal to +do to render it at all practicable; we however all worked +cheerfully and sturdily away at burning the grass, moving rocks +and fallen trees, etc., and thus, as it were, fought our way +through opposing obstacles to Hanover Bay, over a distance of +about four miles.</p> + +<p>TROUBLE IN GETTING THE HORSES TO THE CAMP.</p> + +<p>On arriving there I found Mr. Lushington already on shore and +some of the horses disembarked. They were not only well selected +for the purpose, but were generally in good condition. They had +however two faults which could not have been avoided, and these +were that they were very small and perfectly wild. By about two +o'clock in the afternoon the whole twenty-six had been swum +ashore, and we started for the huts.</p> + +<p>Our progress was however slow; for, as there were only a few +of us, each person was obliged to take charge of three or four of +these untamed, unbroken brutes. The mode we adopted was to fasten +them together by long ropes so that the number each man led could +follow in a line; but, being wholly unused to this kind of +discipline, they strenuously resisted it, biting and kicking at +one another with the greatest ferocity; and as they were chiefly +very courageous little entire horses, a variety of spirited +contests took place, much to their own satisfaction, but to my +infinite chagrin. Some of the men who were not much accustomed to +horses regarded these wild ponies as being but little better than +savage monsters, with whom it was dangerous to have anything to +do; and, being thus rather afraid of them, treated them very +cruelly, kicking them often with great violence whenever I for a +moment looked away, and thus naturally rendering the ponies still +more wild.</p> + +<p>But even when we did induce these brutes to move along +pacifically they would not follow one another in a line, but all +strove to go in different directions, and, as our road lay +through a rocky forest, the consequence of this pulling was that +the connecting ropes kept on getting entangled in rocks and +trees; indeed there was scarcely an instance of two of them +passing on the same side of a tree or rock at the first attempt, +so that we were continually halting to clear their tether ropes; +again, one of the beasts would now and then become obstinate, +refuse to move, and this delayed us all; for I would not allow +the party to separate for fear of the natives. In consequence of +all these adverse circumstances at sunset we had scarcely got +half-way to the encampment; and just at this period one pony +became and remained so obstinate that, in despair, I had it tied +up to a tree alone. We now moved on again as fast as we could, +but night soon surprised us, and, when it became too dark to see +our course, we tethered our horses and laid down in the forest by +them; but as it rained, and we had neither warm clothes nor +covering, and many of the party had tasted nothing since dawn, +our situation was not very pleasant; indeed, the combined +circumstances of cold, hunger, and obstinate ponies had rendered +some of the men more crabbed than I had ever before seen +them.</p> + +<p>January 19.</p> + +<p>As soon as it was light enough to find the ponies we +recommenced our march; and, all our annoyances of yesterday being +repeated, did not succeed in arriving at the ravine until +noon--it took us much care and a great deal of time to reach the +bottom of this in safety; when however we had done so, we +knee-haltered the ponies and let them loose amidst very good +feed, of which they now stood much in need, for there was no +grass whatever between the encampment and Hanover Bay; the whole +of the intervening country being a mass of rock, scrub, and +spinifex. I now sent a party back to bring on the refractory +pony, which I had yesterday been obliged to tie up to a tree, and +the long fast it had been subjected to appeared to have produced +a very beneficial effect on its temper, for it now was perfectly +docile.</p> + +<p>EXCURSION UP PRINCE REGENT'S RIVER. PREPARATIONS FOR +MOVING.</p> + +<p>For the next few days all was bustle and preparation. The +ponies being so much smaller than I had expected, all our +packsaddles had to be altered, and fourteen of them, which the +party had made during the absence of the schooner, still had to +be put together. Mr. Walker undertook the task of constructing a +pathway up the cliffs, by means of which the loaded ponies could +ascend; he laboured personally at making this path, occasionally +assisted by two or three others; and it would be impossible for +anyone who had not seen it at all to comprehend the obstacles he +met with, and the perseverance with which he contended against +and finally overcame them. We were obliged to complete everything +in a hurried and unsatisfactory manner, for our departure had +been so long delayed that we were every day in expectation of the +setting in of the heavy rains and the consequent flooding of the +ravine in which we were encamped; and in the event of this taking +place before we made a start it was impossible to foresee for how +long a period our movements might be delayed.</p> + +<p>CHARACTER OF ITS SHORES.</p> + +<p>On Monday the 22nd Captain Browse and Mr. Walker accompanied +me in the jolly-boat up Prince Regent's River; we went up with +the flood-tide, entering the river by its northern mouth; I had +thus an opportunity of examining the island which lies at the +entrance to this great arm of the sea, and landed upon it in +several places, but found only bad sandy land, occasionally +covered with rocks; it was however well wooded and abounded with +birds. After we had passed the mouth of Rothsay Water the tide +swept us along with great rapidity, and we soon found ourselves +in St. George's Basin. I kept close along the northern shore, +where we saw but little good land after entering the basin; but +there was one fertile island, of a small conical shape, bearing +nearly due east as you enter. From the appearance of this island +there can be no doubt whatever that it is of volcanic origin; as +it in all respects resembles Mount Lyell and the other basaltic +conical hills which we afterwards found in the fertile district +of Glenelg; we did not however land on it, but merely ran close +by, and then continued our route up the river.</p> + +<p>St. George's Basin is a noble sheet of water some ten or +twelve miles across. On its southern side deep inlets run up into +a low and marshy country, leading to fertile districts, and the +main object of my present excursion was to endeavour to identify +these inlets with some I had seen on my first trip to the +southward.</p> + +<p>SCENERY AND THUNDERSTORM.</p> + +<p>On the northern bank lofty mountains, crowned with castellated +summits, rear their sterile heads over the broad waters, and +fling their giant shadows on the bosom of the basin, forming a +scene of surpassing beauty.</p> + +<p>We had entered the more contracted channel of the river, when +there came on a tremendous squall of wind, rain, thunder, and +most vivid lightning. The pealing echoes of the thunder as they +bounded from height to height and from cliff to cliff was awfully +magnificent; whilst the rugged mountains which had just before +looked golden in the bright light of the setting sun were now +shrouded in gloomy mists, and capped with dark clouds from which +issued incessant and dazzling flashes of lightning.</p> + +<p>During this grand and terrific elemental convulsion our little +boat was driven powerless before the blast. The impenetrable +forests of mangroves which clothed the riverbanks obliging us to +run far up the stream until at last a convenient opening enabled +us to land upon the southern shore.</p> + +<p>DELUSIVE APPEARANCE ON THE ROCKS.</p> + +<p>We had not long landed when the rain ceased and, as we found +several natural caverns in the rock and plenty of dead mangrove +trees, we proceeded to make ourselves comfortable for the night; +but the men soon reported that they saw the smoke of a native +fire close to us, and Captain Browse and myself, under the +conviction that such was the case, darted with Mr. Walker to +endeavour to gain an interview. But, as we proceeded over the +rocks, the smoke appeared gradually to retire, always keeping +about the same distance from us: and we at last ascertained that +what had appeared to us to be smoke was nothing but the rising +vapour occasioned by the cold rain falling on sandstone rocks, +which had during the whole day been exposed to the burning rays +of a tropical sun.</p> + +<p>We had now become so much accustomed to sleeping without any +covering, and upon hard rocks, that we should not have minded our +exposure had it not been for the rain which fell during the night +and beat in under the rocks, beneath which we had crept for +shelter. The cold air of the morning awoke us long before +daylight; and Mr. Walker and myself, having explored the country +to the southward and climbed a high hill from which we had an +extensive view, we started on our return to the schooner. In +proceeding down the river we landed on an island, situate at the +south-eastern extremity of St. George's Basin, just where the +river runs into it. The presence of large dead trees on this +island, which had evidently been swept down the river in the time +of floods and washed up far above the usual water-mark, showed +that Prince Regent's River is subject to the same sudden +inundations as all other rivers in Australia which I have seen. +During our passage down the river we saw no extent of good land +in any one place.</p> + +<p>STATE OF THE STOCK.</p> + +<p>For the next few days we had almost uninterrupted bad weather. +The party were all occupied in preparing the saddles, etc. The +ponies having eaten off the grass in the ravine, we were +compelled, about the 28th, to move them to the higher grounds. +These at our first arrival on this coast were perfectly dry and +burnt up; but since the heavy rains had set in they teemed with +running springs, along the margins of which grew a scanty coating +of grass. Being obliged to send the horses to a distance to graze +delayed us a great deal for one portion of our party was occupied +in attending upon them. Our sheep also now began to die off: they +had up to this time improved rapidly and were doing very well, +having, during the absence of the vessel, been regularly tended +and driven to the high dry ground to feed; but now the pressure +of business was so great that we were compelled in some degree to +neglect them, and from this they suffered. The goats had from +some cause never succeeded well.</p> + +<p>From the period of their being landed many of the horses had +declined very much, and several of them were by this time reduced +to a very weakly state. This originated from the heavy rains and +the excessive cold which accompanied them, as well as from some +food they had eaten which had not agreed with them. On the 28th +and 29th the rains increased in violence and duration; but we +still continued our occupations of completing the packsaddles and +arranging the stores in such small packages that they could +easily in case of necessity be transported on men's +shoulders.</p> + +<p>FINAL ARRANGEMENTS FOR THE MARCH.</p> + +<p>Having provided every requisite for the party, such as food, +working utensils, soap, tobacco, etc., all of which were arranged +in their respective packages, I issued an order that nothing but +certain articles of clothing for each individual were to be put +upon the ponies. This step was rendered the more necessary from +their weakness and their diminutive size having greatly abridged +our intended means of transport. Numerous requests were now made +to me to be allowed to put various articles upon the horses, all +of which I felt myself obliged to meet by a steady refusal; but +this refusal, dictated entirely by the necessity of the case, +raised angry and discontented feelings, tending to diminish +materially the individual zeal and energy which were so much +required at this juncture to ensure our success.</p> + +<p>DEPARTURE FOR THE INTERIOR. DIFFICULTIES OF THE ROUTE.</p> + +<p>On the 29th we began in the afternoon to load our horses. Mr. +Walker's pathway was completed by means of a number of circuitous +and sharp turnings: it led directly up the face of cliffs which +were almost precipitous and 180 feet in height. To commemorate +the completion of this really laborious undertaking I named the +valley Walker's Valley.</p> + +<p>TROUBLESOME ASCENT FROM THE VALLEY. SICKNESS AND MORTALITY +AMONG THE HORSES AND STOCK.</p> + +<p>The ponies, though weak, bore their burdens and submitted to +the packsaddles better than I had hoped. The first horse was led +up by the stock-keeper in safety, with its saddle and load on it; +I followed with the second, but was not so fortunate. I had +accomplished about three-fourths of the ascent when, turning one +of the sharp corners round a rock, the load struck against it and +knocked the horse over on its side. I thought for a moment that +the poor beast would have fallen down the precipice, but luckily +its roll was checked in time to prevent this. There it lay +however on a flat rock, four or five feet wide, a precipice of +150 feet on one side of it, and the projecting rock against which +it had struck on the other, whilst I sat upon its head to prevent +it from moving. Its long tail streamed in the wind over the +precipice; its wild and fiery eye gleamed from its shaggy mane +and forelock; and, ignorant of its impending danger, it kicked +and struggled violently, whilst it appeared to hang in mid-air +over the gloomy depth of this tropical ravine. Anxious as I felt +for the safety of my pony I could not be unconscious of the +singular beauty of the scene during the few minutes that elapsed +whilst I was repressing its struggles on a narrow ledge of rock, +of which the dark brow projected threateningly above me, whilst +the noise of a rushing torrent was audible far below. I cut the +girths of the saddle, which then with its load rolled over the +precipice, and pitched with a heavy crash on a rock far down. +Even then, if the brute had not been a denizen of a wild and +mountainous country, it must have been lost; but now it no sooner +felt itself freed from its encumbrance than, looking sagaciously +around and then raising itself cautiously up, it stood trembling +by my side upon the narrow terrace.</p> + +<p>Warned by this misfortune we managed to make another turn in +the path, by which this awkward rock was avoided, and the +remainder of the horses, with their loads, reached the tableland +in safety. But so rocky was this country that, even after having +mastered the ascent, we found great difficulty in getting the +loaded ponies half a mile further to a point I had fixed on for +our camp. We had this night a continued succession of heavy +showers, accompanied with thunder and lightning.</p> + +<p>January 30.</p> + +<p>This morning it was reported to me that several sheep were +dead, and that the horses were beginning to suffer much from +constant exposure to the heavy cold rains, for the trees were so +small, and their foliage so slight, that they afforded no shelter +whatever from tropical showers. On repairing to the ravine I +found that the stream which even yesterday was much swollen had +now become an impetuous torrent, so much so that even to swim +across it was not an easy matter. A tree was soon felled and a +temporary foot-bridge thus formed; and as the rain cleared off a +little towards the afternoon we managed, in this interval of fine +weather, to load the ponies and carry some stores up the cliffs, +but the poor beasts were so much weakened since yesterday that we +were obliged to diminish their loads considerably. They all +appeared to be gradually declining in health, strength, and +condition, but from what cause except exposure I could not +tell.</p> + +<p>IMPEDIMENTS FROM BAD WEATHER.</p> + +<p>January 31.</p> + +<p>During last night we had heavy storms, the torrent was still +more swollen and, although we laboured hard all day, we +accomplished very little; several sheep died during the day, and +the ponies appeared to be worse. I became now very anxious as to +the result of the expedition; my worst apprehensions as to the +rainy season setting in before we had got clear of the sandstone +ranges had already been fully realized; every endeavour to hasten +our preparations and to prevent this occurrence had been used, +though unsuccessfully; it appeared now the better course to bear +up against evils that could not be avoided than to lose time in +murmuring; I therefore kept all hands constantly employed in +doing something which might tend to accelerate our departure.</p> + +<p>HEAVY RAINS.</p> + +<p>February 1.</p> + +<p>We again had heavy and incessant rain throughout Wednesday +night, accompanied by thunder and lightning. At daylight the +stock-keeper came to report to me that two horses, three sheep, +and one goat were dead, and that several other horses appeared to +be in a very dangerous state. All our stores with the exception +of a few articles had now been removed from the valley in which +we had first encamped; some of our goats were still left there, +but the torrent had become so rapid and impetuous that it had +swept away the bridge and was now impassable. Heavy rains fell +throughout the greater portion of the day, and produced a +beautiful effect in the ravines, for cascades were pouring over +the cliffs on each side, sweeping every now and then before them +massive pieces of rock, the crash of which in their fall echoed +loudly through the valleys.</p> + +<p>FURTHER LOSS OF STOCK.</p> + +<p>February 2.</p> + +<p>Bad news came again this morning--the stock-keeper met me with +a very rueful countenance to report that another horse and two +sheep had just been found dead, and that several more sheep were +missing. It still rained so heavily that we could not attempt to +move, for already a considerable portion of our stores was +damaged by the water which had filled the ditch, and regularly +flooded the tent in which they were placed.</p> + +<p>Mr. Walker started with me for the purpose of marking off a +road to the place we next intended to halt at, for the country +was so rocky that it was necessary to choose a path with the +greatest caution, or we should soon have become embarrassed in +precipitous places which the horses could not have traversed. +Whilst I was thus engaged Mr. Lushington and two men made another +unsuccessful attempt to get the goats and remaining stores across +the stream.</p> + +<p>WEAKNESS AND OBSTINACY OF THE PONIES.</p> + +<p>February 3.</p> + +<p>This morning the rain had somewhat abated: the remaining +stores were brought from the ravine, and the goats were swum +across; in the meantime the ponies were brought up and loaded, +and all preparations were at last made for a start: but a host of +new difficulties arose; many of the ponies were found to be in +such a weakly state that they could with great difficulty carry +any weight at all. We were obliged to make a totally new division +of the stores, and to select and put aside what articles we could +best leave behind. These preparations occupied a considerable +time, but we at last moved off in a south-east direction. Our +progress was however very slow and tedious; the ponies, though +lightly loaded, were so reduced that the slightest obstacle made +many fall from weakness, whilst others laid down from obstinacy, +and the men being inexperienced in re-fixing the loads, each +horse that fell delayed us considerably. At last so many were +down at one time that I advanced with such as were able to move +to a point distant not more than half a mile, where I halted for +the night; and, having unloaded and tethered these horses, we +returned to assist the others, and after a great deal of +difficulty got the remainder of the weak ponies safe to the +encampment.</p> + +<p>I slept but little this night for I doubted whether, with our +cattle so enfeebled and so out of condition, we should ever +succeed in penetrating any distance into the country. We were +still a considerable way from the fertile plains I had seen to +the southward, whilst the intervening ground was very difficult +to travel across and afforded no good feed for the ponies. All my +meditations however only terminated in the conviction that it was +my duty to continue to use my best exertions under such adverse +circumstances.</p> + +<p>February 4.</p> + +<p>There being no good grass for the horses where we were, I was +obliged to move the party and commenced by using every method I +could to lighten the loads and to rid the expedition of all +encumbrances. I left here a male and female goat who, by their +obstinacy, delayed our movements; thinking also that, if they +escaped the natives, their offspring might become a valuable +acquisition to this land.</p> + +<p>We also left here 28 pounds of gunpowder, 10 pounds of ball +cartridges, 70 pounds of shot, 200 pounds of preserved meat, some +carpenters' tools, and many other useful articles; yet, +notwithstanding this decrease in the loads of the ponies, the +country we had to travel through was so bad that we only +completed two miles in the course of the day; and yet to find the +track by which we did succeed in crossing the range had cost me +many successive hours' walking under a burning sun. The character +of the country we passed through was the same as these sandstone +ranges always present; namely, sandy scrubby plains, and low +ranges of ruinous, rocky hills, in trying to scramble over which +the ponies received numerous and severe falls. We however had a +very beautiful halting-place, shaded by lofty pines and affording +fair feed for the animals.</p> + +<p>NEW PLAN OF MOVEMENTS.</p> + +<p>February 5.</p> + +<p>On this morning it was reported to me that several of the +ponies were in a dying state, and that none of them would be +again able to carry even such light loads as they had hitherto +done; the quantity of stores they could now convey was quite +inadequate to supply a party of the strength we were obliged to +move with for any great length of time. A new plan of operations +was thus forced upon me, and I now resolved to proceed as +follows:</p> + +<p>To advance with half our stores to a convenient place for +encamping at, and then, on the succeeding day, to send back some +of the party with the ponies for the remaining portion of the +provisions; whilst, accompanied by two men, I marked off the road +by which we were to move on the following day. This mode of +proceeding would not very much delay our movements; for the +country we were at present in was of so intricate a nature that +it was impossible to move loaded horses without previously +marking a road for them; and by its adoption I trusted to be able +to establish a depot of provisions at some point distant from the +coast and whence we could yet make a good start in a southerly +direction.</p> + +<p>LABOUR OF TRACING ROUTE.</p> + +<p>In pursuance of this plan Mr. Lushington returned this day to +our last camp to bring up the provisions we had abandoned; whilst +I went off with two men to endeavour to pick out a route by which +the ponies could travel. A more toilsome day's work than we had +could not be imagined. For eleven hours I was incessantly +walking, exposed during the greater part of the time to the +burning rays of a tropical sun; and we found nothing but rocky, +almost impassable sandstone ranges and precipitous ravines. I +however at last succeeded in discovering a path along which it +was just possible we might be able, by using great care, to lead +loaded horses; and on my return to the camp I found that all the +remaining stores had been brought up.</p> + +<p>DESCENT INTO A VALLEY.</p> + +<p>February 6.</p> + +<p>We began our descent this morning from the tableland into a +deep valley, following the track we had yesterday marked off, +which was still however so rugged and rocky as to be very +difficult to get along. Heavy rains set in, and these were always +so cold that the large drops falling upon us Occasioned quite a +painful sensation. The valleys being all flooded there was no +feed in them for the horses and sheep; I therefore was obliged to +send them back under charge of Mr. Lushington to the camp, which +we had this morning quitted.</p> + +<p>I retained three men with me; and after the remainder of the +party had moved off I left two of them in charge of the stores, +and started with Corporal Coles, again to explore the country in +front of us.</p> + +<p>CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY. FLOODED RAVINE.</p> + +<p>About half a mile to the south there was a deep ravine, +bounded on each side by lofty cliffs. This ravine resembled in +many respects the one we had first encamped in, but it was +larger; and it was now impossible to travel either up or down in +it on account of the great body of water which occupied its bed. +Just opposite to where we were this ravine separated into three +smaller ones, running up into the sandstone ranges along which I +had previously sought for a route whereby to turn and travel +round their heads; but I had found the country so rocky, so +impracticable, and devoid of forage that I felt sure it was +useless to attempt to traverse it.</p> + +<p>My next object was to find a passage out of the main ravine, +between the points where the subsidiary ravines ran into it, and +where it joined the sea. If I could succeed in doing this our +difficulties would, in a great measure, have terminated, for no +other main ravine lay between us and the fertile plains which I +had seen to the southward; and I knew that we should find no +difficulty in traversing the intervening sandstone range, which +consisted of a series of elevated plains or terraces, rising one +behind the other.</p> + +<p>With this view Coles and myself searched until after sunset, +but without success. We found the ravine bounded throughout its +southern side by inaccessible cliffs. Occasionally little branch +ravines ran into it; but on penetrating for some distance up +these they invariably terminated in precipitous cascades. A great +portion of this afternoon was spent up to our middles in water as +we waded about the flooded valley; and the only thing we had to +compensate us for the fatigue and suffering we underwent was the +wild beauty of the scenery, which was as lovely and picturesque +as impetuous torrents, foaming cascades, lofty rocks, and a rich +tropical vegetation could render it.</p> + +<p>NATIVES.</p> + +<p>On our return homewards, wearied and disappointed, we came +close upon a large party of natives before they were aware of our +presence. Coles had followed me up the northern bank of the +ravine, and we thus occupied a good position; the natives had, I +suppose, wished to avoid us, for we saw no more of them, but +merely heard the sound of their retiring voices as they moved up +the centre of the valley. We now returned to the men we had left +in charge of the stores, and reached the tent soon after +dark.</p> + +<p>LABOUR OF TRACING AND FORMING A PATH.</p> + +<p>February 7.</p> + +<p>This day was passed in constructing the pathway which was to +lead us down into the deep ravine in our front. Whilst the men +were thus engaged I traversed the country I had yesterday visited +in the hope that I might yet find some outlet into the good +country which would take us clear of the others; but my searches +were in vain. Only one man accompanied me, and I completely +knocked him up ere the evening closed in upon us. We then were +obliged to retrace our steps to the camp, and I now found myself +perfectly worn out by the fatigue consequent on such continued +and violent walking exercise under a tropical sun.</p> + +<p>It was however cheering to me to see how constantly some of +the men had laboured at forming the road down the valleys which +led into the ravine. The horses had been brought down thus far; +but three more of them had died, so that our twenty-six ponies +were reduced to nineteen, many of whom were in wretched +condition.</p> + +<p>CONTINUED DIFFICULTIES OF ROUTE.</p> + +<p>February 8.</p> + +<p>We again resumed our journey towards the interior; but the +pathway, which ran through the valleys leading to the summit of +the ravine, was still so broken and difficult that the ponies +could only carry half loads along it; and the descent down the +clifTs was so steep that they were obliged to be unladen and led +into the ravine without their burdens, which were carried down +upon the men's shoulders. Men could not have behaved better than +they all did on this occasion, particularly Corporal Auger who, +possessing the power of carrying on his back very heavy burdens, +took every occasion of exercising it in such a way as to +stimulate the others, and very much to accelerate our +movements.</p> + +<p>But even when we had with so much labour got ponies, stores, +etc. to the bottom of the ravine, our troubles had, as it were, +only commenced, for we now had to get out of it on the other +side. In the course of the afternoon however a path had been +made, and most of the stores were safely stowed upon an elevated +tableland where we had pitched the tents. The place I had chosen +for our camp was a pretty spot; a sweet, short herbage had been +raised by the heavy rains from the sandy soil, and amongst this +the beauteous flowers, for which Australia is deservedly +celebrated, were so scattered and intermixed that they gave the +country an enamelled appearance. A lofty species of Casuarina was +intermingled with trees of a denser foliage, and on each side we +looked down into two deep ravines; through the dense dark foliage +of which could be seen the white foaming waters brawling on their +way far below.</p> + +<p>The next day was occupied in bringing up the remainder of the +stores from the ravine and repairing the damages which had +resulted from the bursting of bags and other mischief in their +transit over such rough ground. Early in the morning we all had a +good bathe, and only those who have been so constantly engaged +under a burning sun, and for upwards of a week without regularly +washing or undressing, can at all estimate the pleasure with +which I plunged into the clear and rapid stream.</p> + +<p>ASCENT FROM THE RAVINE.</p> + +<p>After thus performing our ablutions we breakfasted, and then, +whilst the stores were being conveyed to the tableland, I +started, accompanied by one man, to explore a route for our line +of march next day. After continuing on the tableland for about a +mile I traced a good route both into and out of another ravine; +the stream which occupied the bed of this was so swollen that I +had some difficulty in finding a ford across it; but after a few +rather ludicrous plunges and falls upon the green slippery rocks +I succeeded in detecting a tolerably good one. Our line of route +now lay across some elevated open plains, clothed with spinifex, +and thinly wooded with a large species of Eucalyptus. We saw here +numerous signs of the natives, who had been cutting steps in the +trees for the purpose of hunting opossums. These open plains +extended for about two miles, and we then reached another small +ravine, with a rapid stream running through it. A very good route +brought us across this slight descent and stream; and from this +point no further impediment of any consequence appeared to lie in +our way. The direction in which I now wished to travel presented +a series of rocky, sandy plains, thinly wooded, and affording a +scanty sufficiency of food for the ponies.</p> + +<p>EXHAUSTION FROM FATIGUE. COLD RAINS.</p> + +<p>During the time I was searching for this route the rain had +fallen in torrents, and the quantity of ground I had walked over +was so considerable that I was exhausted; riding was quite +impossible in these excursions as, in many places where the +ground was covered with loose rocks overgrown with a vegetation +which concealed treacherous cavities, it was necessary to pass +across it two or three times before I could determine whether a +horse could move over it or not. Today I found myself completely +knocked up, and felt certain that I could not for many days +longer bear up against such continued fatigues. On my return to +the camp I found all prepared for a start tomorrow; but many of +the horses were so ill as to be incapable of carrying more than +half a load.</p> + +<p>February 10.</p> + +<p>We moved off at daybreak and, having reached the ravine, set +to work to form a pathway down the descent, and up the ascent on +the other side, under the additional disadvantage of heavy rain. +The sudden transition from the rays of a burning sun to this cold +bath made my teeth chatter as if I had a tertian ague. When half +our work was completed we breakfasted in the beautiful ravine +amidst the dark luxuriant vegetation of the tropics, formed by +the pandanus, bamboo, and palm.</p> + +<p>After breakfast the men recommenced their labour on the road. +About two P.M. it was completed, and we then loaded the ponies +and set out. The poor animals were however so weak that it was +almost impossible to get them to move; they stumbled and fell +repeatedly, and thus thereby not only injured themselves but so +delayed our movements that we only made three miles and a half +during the day, and then halted for the night on very elevated +land, and in a good position, for we were on a little sandy rise, +along the base of which ran a stream, distant about one hundred +yards.</p> + +<p>WORST DIFFICULTIES SURMOUNTED.</p> + +<p>Having thus gained the elevated plains I laid down to sleep, +satisfied that the worst of our labours were over; yet I could +not but recollect that it had taken us ten days to reach a spot +which by the proper route was only a short day's journey from the +valley we were first encamped in, and that in our march through +the country we had been compelled to traverse we had lost seven +ponies, and injured many of those remaining; all these +difficulties arose from our departure having been delayed so long +that the rains had set in and so flooded the country that we +could not proceed by the proper route.</p> + +<p><a name="chapter8"></a></p> + +<h2>CHAPTER 8. TO THE GLENELG RIVER.</h2> + +<p>MEETING AND ENCOUNTER WITH THE NATIVES.</p> + +<p>February 11.</p> + +<p>The stores we had left behind yesterday were so necessary to +us that I was fearful they might be injured or destroyed if left +exposed in the bush beyond today, and therefore despatched a +party under Mr. Lushington for them.</p> + +<p>Some time after they were gone I started from the encampment +on foot, with the intention of choosing a track for our route +next day, as well as of endeavouring to fall in with my former +track in this direction; for by so doing I should be enabled to +get the party on the good land without further impediment, and at +the same time to complete my map of this part of the country.</p> + +<p>GATHERING OF NATIVES ABOUT THE CAMP.</p> + +<p>I was accompanied by Corporal Coles and a fine-looking young +man about twenty years of age, from the Cape of Good Hope, +leaving three men at the camp. Soon after my departure these men +heard the voices of natives in the woods, and presently they +appeared themselves in numbers which rapidly increased until +there were collected together about two hundred men, women, and +children. The party at the tents instantly got under arms, and +posted themselves on the brow of the hill on which our tents +stood; whilst at some distance from its base, and on the opposite +side of the stream, the natives were assembled.</p> + +<p>The advance of a large armed body from the woods seemed now to +indicate that a hostile movement was about to be made; one of my +party therefore shouted out to them in a threatening tone, +motioning to them at the same time to go away. The natives +immediately answered the shout, then halted, and, after +apparently consulting together for some time, retired a little. +The party at the tents simultaneously took counsel together and, +agreeing that it would be imprudent in their small number to hold +intercourse, under the existing circumstances, with so large a +body of natives, it was resolved not to allow them to approach +beyond a certain point, and, in the event of any armed portion +passing the stream towards the tents in disregard of their +signals, then to fire on them one by one.</p> + +<p>PROCEEDINGS AT THE CAMP.</p> + +<p>In the meantime the women and little children moved round the +hill, examining everything with the most intense delight: a pony +which was in front of the camp more particularly excited their +attention; the little children laughed loudly at it, and appeared +also to laugh at the party themselves, regarding them much the +same way that little boys do a stranger in foreign costume when +he appears in the streets of a country village in England. The +native men regarded the pony more seriously; they walked round +and round, examining it carefully, and when the little stallion, +becoming playful from these marks of attention, neighed, put down +his head, and prepared to fight and kick vigorously, they all +beat a precipitate retreat.</p> + +<p>The party at the tents overlooked all their movements and +heard every word that was uttered. They describe the language +this people spoke as clear, distinct, and agreeable to the ear; +the men they observed to be a fine race, tall and athletic: two +were remarked in particular, one of whom was very tall, and had +his forehead and face painted with white (their sign of mourning, +and that there is a death to avenge) whilst the other was of a +far lighter shade of colour than the rest, and these two appeared +to direct the general movements.</p> + +<p>After some time distant shouts were heard from other natives +in the direction in which my party had seen me go; and a large +body of the native men instantly hurried off in that quarter, +headed by the tall man and the light-coloured one I have just +mentioned. Then ensued a pause of about two hours, during which +the native women and children wandered about in the distance, +conversing in groups: suddenly was heard shouts, as of distress, +from the same quarter, which were answered by the natives in +front of the camp, when all moved off in a hurried manner and +were seen there no more. But in the interim another scene +connected with this had been passing at a distance.</p> + +<p>EVENTS IN TRACING A ROAD.</p> + +<p>On quitting the camp in the morning I and my two companions +traversed for some time portions of the elevated sandstone plains +which I had passed on a former occasion; and, after an hour's +walking through the gloomy stringy-bark forest which covered +them, we reached a stream of water running in a shallow valley; +and as there was a bad route down to this I halted to make a road +which the ponies could traverse. There was plenty of water and +forage hereabouts, and a fine level country for our proceedings, +so that we were all in high hopes and spirits, and, as I then +believed, our principal difficulties were at an end.</p> + +<p>Whilst at work at the road we all thought that we heard a +native call, and that others answered him; having listened for a +repetition of these sounds we again heard them, but they were so +indistinct in character that none of us this time agreed as to +what they were. I imagined that it was the call of a bird and, +when I again heard the same sound very faintly in the distance, I +felt convinced it was not a human voice, and proceeded on my way +perfectly at ease.</p> + +<p>My attention was soon occupied by other objects. I saw from a +hill I ascended some remarkable blue peaks to the south: this +gave us fresh hopes; and nothing occurred till about +three-quarters of an hour after we had first heard the native +call, when we arrived at a short descent covered with rocks, from +which started a large kangaroo; I got a fair shot at, and knocked +it over, but it sprang up again and hopped away; we then tried to +track it but soon lost its footsteps in the scrubby vegetation of +the gloomy forest,</p> + +<p>It was the duty of the Cape man who accompanied me to mark a +tree every here and there by chipping the bark, so that the party +might the next day easily recognise the route which they had to +pursue; upon looking back I now perceived that he had neglected a +very remarkable tree about twenty or thirty yards behind us, and +which stood close to the spot where I had fired at the kangaroo. +I desired him to go back and chip it, and then to rejoin us; in +the meantime I stood musing as to the best means of avoiding the +little rocky ravine in our front.</p> + +<p>SUDDEN SURPRISE BY NATIVES.</p> + +<p>Finding that the man remained absent longer than I had +expected I called loudly to him, but received no answer, and +therefore passed round some rocks which hid the tree from my view +to look after him. Suddenly I saw him close to me breathless and +speechless with terror, and a native with his spear fixed in a +throwing-stick in full pursuit of him; immediately numbers of +other natives burst upon my sight; each tree, each rock, seemed +to give forth its black denizen, as if by enchantment.</p> + +<p>A moment before, the most solemn silence pervaded these woods. +We deemed that not a human being moved within miles of us, and +now they rang with savage and ferocious yells, and fierce armed +men crowded round us on every side, bent on our destruction.</p> + +<p>CONTEST WITH THEM. UNFORTUNATE RESULTS.</p> + +<p>There was something very terrible in so complete and sudden a +surprise. Certain death appeared to stare us in the face: and, +from the determined and resolute air of our opponents, I +immediately guessed that the man who had first seen them, instead +of boldly standing his ground, and calling to Coles and myself +for assistance, had at once, like a coward, run away; thus giving +the natives confidence in themselves, and a contempt for us: and +this conjecture I afterwards ascertained was perfectly true.</p> + +<p>We were now fairly engaged for our lives; escape was +impossible, and surrender to such enemies out of the +question.</p> + +<p>As soon as I saw the natives around me I fired one barrel of +my gun over the head of him who was pursuing my dismayed +attendant, hoping the report would have checked his further +career. He proved to be the tall man seen at the camp, painted +with white. My shot stopped him not: he still closed on us and +his spear whistled by my head; but, whilst he was fixing another +in his throwing stick, a ball from my second barrel struck him in +the arm and it fell powerless by his side. He now retired behind +a rock, but the others still pressed on.</p> + +<p>IMMINENT DANGER.</p> + +<p>I now made the two men retire behind some neighbouring rocks, +which formed a kind of protecting parapet along our front and +right flank, whilst I took post on the left. Both my barrels were +now exhausted; and I desired the other two to fire separately, +whilst I was reloading; but to my horror, Coles, who was armed +with my rifle, reported hurriedly that the cloth case with which +he had covered it for protection against rain had become +entangled. His services were thus lost at a most critical moment +whilst trying to tear off the lock cover; and the other man was +so paralysed with fear that he could do nothing but cry out, "Oh, +God! Sir, look at them; look at them!"</p> + +<p>In the meantime our opponents pressed more closely round; +their spears kept whistling by us, and our fate seemed +inevitable. The light coloured man, spoken of at the camp, now +appeared to direct their movements. He sprang forward to a rock +not more than thirty yards from us and, posting himself behind +it, threw a spear with such deadly force and aim that, had I not +drawn myself forward by a sudden jerk, it must have gone through +my body, and as it was it touched my back in flying by. Another +well-directed spear, from a different hand, would have pierced me +in the breast, but, in the motion I made to avoid it, it struck +upon the stock of my gun, of which it carried away a portion by +its force.</p> + +<p>All this took place in a few seconds of time, and no shot had +been fired but by me. I now recognized in the light-coloured man +an old enemy who had led on the former attack against me on the +22nd of December. By his cries and gestures he now appeared to be +urging the others to surround and press on us, which they were +rapidly doing.</p> + +<p>FALL OF THE NATIVE CHIEF.</p> + +<p>I saw now that but one thing could be done to save our lives, +so I gave Coles my gun to complete the reloading, and took the +rifle which he had not yet disengaged from the cover. I tore it +off and, stepping out from behind our parapet, advanced to the +rock which covered my light-coloured opponent. I had not made two +steps in advance when three spears struck me nearly at the same +moment, one of which was thrown by him. I felt severely wounded +in the hip, but knew not exactly where the others had struck me. +The force of all knocked me down, and made me very giddy and +faint, but as I fell I heard the savage yells of the natives' +delight and triumph; these recalled me to myself, and, roused by +momentary rage and indignation, I made a strong effort, rallied, +and in a moment was on my legs; the spear was wrenched from my +wound, and my haversack drawn closely over it, that neither my +own party nor the natives might see it, and I advanced again +steadily to the rock. The man became alarmed and threatened me +with his club, yelling most furiously; but as I neared the rock +behind which all but his head and arm was covered he fled towards +an adjoining one, dodging dexterously, according to the native +manner of confusing an assailant and avoiding the cast of his +spear; but he was scarcely uncovered in his flight when my rifle +ball pierced him through the back between the shoulders, and he +fell heavily on his face with a deep groan.</p> + +<p>DISPERSION OF HIS FOLLOWERS.</p> + +<p>The effect was electrical. The tumult of the combat had +ceased: not another spear was thrown, not another yell was +uttered. Native after native dropped away and noiselessly +disappeared. I stood alone with the wretched savage dying before +me, and my two men close to me behind the rocks, in the attitude +of deep attention; and as I looked round upon the dark rocks and +forests, now suddenly silent and lifeless but for the sight of +the unhappy being who lay on the ground before me, I could have +thought that the whole affair had been a horrid dream.</p> + +<p>For a second or two I gazed on the scene and then returned to +my former position. I took my gun from Coles, which he had not +yet finished loading, and gave him the rifle. I then went up to +the other man, and gave him two balls to hold, but when I placed +them in his hands they rolled upon the earth--he could not hold +them, for he was completely paralysed with terror, and they fell +through his fingers; the perspiration streamed from every pore; +he was ghastly pale and trembled from head to foot; his limbs +refused their functions; his eyes were so fixed in the direction +in which the natives had disappeared that I could draw his +attention to nothing else; and he still continued repeating, +"Good God, sir! look at them, look at them."</p> + +<p>The natives had all now concealed themselves, but they were +not far off. Presently the wounded man made an effort to raise +himself slowly from the ground: some of them instantly came from +behind the rocks and trees, without their spears, crowding round +him with the greatest tenderness and solicitude; two passed their +arms round him, his head drooped senselessly upon his chest, and +with hurried steps the whole party wound their way through the +forest, their black forms being scarcely distinguishable from the +charred trunks of the trees as they receded in the distance.</p> + +<p>To have fired upon the other natives when they returned for +the wounded man would, in my belief, have been an unnecessary +piece of barbarity. I already felt deeply the death of him I had +been compelled to shoot: and I believe that when a +fellow-creature falls by one's hand, even in a single combat +rendered unavoidable in self-defence, it is impossible not +sincerely to regret the force of so cruel a necessity.</p> + +<p>RETURN WOUNDED.</p> + +<p>I had now time to attend to my own state and that of my men, +and found that they were uninjured. I had been severely wounded +in the hip; another spear had just cut my right arm, and a third +had deeply indented my powder-flask, whilst lying in a haversack, +immediately over my stomach. The men were not, up to this moment, +aware of my being wounded, as I had thought it better to conceal +this circumstance from them as long as I could. The natives had +gone off in the direction of the tents; and as I felt doubtful +whether they might seize upon a favourable opportunity to +surprise the party there, and thus revenge their defeat, I was +anxious to reach the encampment as soon as possible. We therefore +bound up my wound as well as we could, picked up the spear which +I had drawn out from my hip, and started homewards.</p> + +<p>We did not take with us any of the other spears or native +weapons which were lying about in abundance; for I still wished +to show this people that I was actuated by no ill will towards +them. They did not however deal so generously with us; for Coles +unfortunately forgot a notebook which he was carrying for me, +containing many observations of great value; and I sent back a +party to look for it, but the natives had returned to the place +and carried off all their own spears, and other weapons, and my +notebook likewise.</p> + +<p>The first part of our march homewards was managed tolerably +well. We saw the tracks of the natives, as if they were still +retiring in the direction of the tents; and at one place, close +to a group of detached rocks, were several tame native dogs, near +which I have no doubt a party of men or women were concealed, as +these animals seldom wander far from their masters. We did not +however see any natives, and continued our route unmolested.</p> + +<p>My wound began by degrees to get very stiff and painful, and I +was moreover excessively weak and faint from loss of blood; +indeed I grew so dizzy that I could scarcely see, and neither of +the others were capable of leading the party back to the tents; +yet I was afraid to halt and rest for I imagined that if I +allowed my wound to grow cold and benumbed I should then be +unable to move; leaning therefore on Coles's arm, I walked on as +rapidly as I could, directing the men which way to go.</p> + +<p>MISTAKE OF THE ROUTE.</p> + +<p>Unfortunately however we lost our track and, after walking for +nearly two hours, I found that we were far from the encampment, +whilst my sight and strength were momentarily failing. Under +these circumstances I told Coles to walk in a direction which I +gave him, and which led directly across the beaten track of the +party; having reached which he could easily make out the +encampment, and, leaning on his arm more heavily than before, we +again moved on.</p> + +<p>INABILITY TO PROCEED.</p> + +<p>Having reached the track of the party and turned southward to +follow it I still pushed on until we were within two miles of the +tent, when, as I tried to cross a stream, I strained my wounded +hip severely, just reached the opposite shore, and fell utterly +unable to rise again. Coles, with his usual courage and devotion +to me, volunteered to go on alone to the party and send +assistance; the other man was to remain with me and keep a +lookout for the natives, and, had they again attacked us, I +should still have had strength enough to have shot two of them, +and thus have sold my life dearly. I desired Coles to say that a +tent, stores, the surgeon, and two men were to be sent to me, for +that I was not well enough to be moved.</p> + +<p>REFLECTIONS.</p> + +<p>The water of the stream revived me considerably. My wound +however was very painful, and the interim between Corporal Coles +leaving me, and assistance arriving from the tent was spent in +meditations, arising naturally from my present circumstances. I +sat upon the rocky edge of a cool clear brook, supported by a +small tree. The sun shone out brightly, the dark forest was alive +with birds and insects. On such scenery I had loved to meditate +when a boy, but now how changed I was; wounded, fatigued, and +wandering in an unknown land. In momentary expectation of being +attacked my finger was on the trigger, my gun ready to be raised, +my eyes and ears busily engaged in detecting the slightest +sounds, that I might defend a life which I at that moment +believed was ebbing with my blood away; the loveliness of nature +was around me, the sun rejoicing in his cloudless career, the +birds were filling the woods with their songs, and my friends far +away and unapprehensive of my condition, whilst I felt that I was +dying there.</p> + +<p>And in this way very many explorers yearly die. One poor youth +(Mr. Frederick Smith) my own friend and companion, has thus +fallen since the circumstances above described took place; others +have, to my knowledge, lately perished in a similar way. A +strange sun shines upon their lonely graves; the foot of the wild +man yet roams over them: but let us hope when civilization has +spread so far that their graves will be sacred spots that the +future settlers will sometimes shed a tear over the remains of +the first explorer, and tell their children how much they are +indebted to the enthusiasm, perseverance, and courage of him who +lies buried there.</p> + +<p>Mr. Walker was by my side within an hour after the time that +Coles had left me; he had come on alone ahead of the others, not +knowing but that I might be in immediate danger, and therefore +running a risk on my account that I can never forget.</p> + +<p>He dressed my wound and told me that assistance was at hand to +convey me to the tents. Mr. Lushington soon arrived with a pony. +It was now growing very late in the day. I therefore did not like +to remonstrate against being moved on horseback although, from +the position of my wound, I feared that it was an injudicious +mode of conveyance in my state. I was placed upon the pony and, +supported by my comrades, moved onwards to the tent.</p> + +<p>REACH THE CAMP. CONSEQUENCES OF THE WOUND.</p> + +<p>I cared but little for the want of comforts I must now be +subject to. Therein I only shared the lot of many a worthy +soldier; but one thing made the night very wretched, for then +through the woods came the piercing shrieks of wailing women and +the mournful cries of native men, sorrowing over him who had that +day fallen by my hand. These cries rang on my ears all night, +startling me at every moment from my feverish and fitful +slumbers.</p> + +<p>Early next morning the natives moved off in a westerly +direction without having again attempted in any way whatever to +molest us. My wound was not today so painful as I had +anticipated. Mr. Walker, at my request, attempted to heal it by +union by the first intention, as I hoped to be thus only +compelled to delay the party for a few days.</p> + +<p>My pain and suffering were, after the first day, so great, +owing to an abscess having formed in my hip, that I was unable to +keep a regular journal, and will therefore give a short narrative +of the events which occurred, recommencing my journal on the 27th +of February, the day on which I was sufficiently recovered to +enable me to proceed with the party.</p> + +<p>CAPE MAN SENT BACK TO THE VESSEL.</p> + +<p>Two or three days after I had been wounded the man from the +Cape, who had been with me at the time, came to request that he +might be allowed to leave the party and return to the vessel. He +stated very fairly that his horror and dread of the natives were +so great he should never be able to face them; that he had never +been before placed in circumstances of danger; and felt himself +quite unable to cope with them; that if his own father had been +with him when they attacked us he could not have helped him; and +that he was sure he should die of fright if ever he saw them +again.</p> + +<p>I thought it would be cruel to compel him to remain with the +party, and it was moreover impossible to tell what evil effect +his cowardice might produce upon the others; when already he had, +by running away from the natives, induced them to attack us. The +only account he gave of this transaction was that he saw a native +sitting on a rock with a spear and, feeling alarmed, immediately +ran away. No one after this could feel in the least surprised at +the consequences. The peculiar characteristic of this savage race +appears to be that they in all cases act upon first impulses and +impressions. I have repeatedly remarked this trait in their +character; and undoubtedly when they found an unknown being in +their native wilds, who fled from them in evident fear, it was to +be expected that they would, in the first instance, feel very +much inclined to run after, and throw a spear at him.</p> + +<p>On the 21st of February I sent a party under Mr. Walker back +to the schooner for the purpose of escorting this man, as well as +to direct the Captain to delay her departure from the bay until +the 2nd day of May; which delay would allow time for us to +complete the exploration of this part of the country, and I could +then decide upon what course I had better adopt.</p> + +<p>EVENTS DURING PERIOD OF HALT.</p> + +<p>Mr. Walker returned on the 22nd, having executed both these +commissions; and his party brought back for me a little sugar, +arrowroot, and wine. All of these were articles of which, in my +present state, I stood much in need.</p> + +<p>My recovery was a good deal delayed by the circumstances in +which I was placed. The heat in the store-tent, a portion of +which I occupied, was sometimes as high as 136 degrees of +Fahrenheit, and until the return of Mr. Walker I had been able to +obtain nothing to eat or drink but damper and tea without sugar; +I also reclined upon the ground, until sores broke out from lying +on so hard a surface in one position. Corporal Auger latterly +however made a sort of low stretcher, which gave me a little more +ease. Added to these bodily ills were many mental ones--but I +will not dwell longer on times so replete with painful +recollections.</p> + +<p>ANECDOTE OF RUSTON.</p> + +<p>During the time I was lying in my tent, in great pain and very +low spirits, I was attended with every care and kindness by +Ruston, the sailor I had brought from the Cape, who occasionally +suggested such odd topics of comfort as his philosophy could +supply; and one day, either from some expressions I had dropped, +or other circumstance, he conceived that the death of the native +I had shot was preying most upon my mind; under this impression +he came into the tent, seated himself on a flour-bag near me, and +made his usual inquiries as to my wants and desires; then, +glancing at recent events, proceeded to say: "Well, Sir, I'm sure +if I were you, I shouldn't think nothing at all of having shot +that there black fellow; why, Sir, they're very thick and +plentiful up the country." I did not exactly see the consolation +to be derived from this argument of Ruston's, but I could not +forbear smiling at its quaintness, and feeling grateful for the +kindness with which it was intended.</p> + +<p>TRACK FOUND.</p> + +<p>During my illness Mr. Lushington explored a track to the +westward of the one I had formerly taken, and of which he +reported so favourably that I determined to pursue it. According +to his account, by following it for seven or eight miles, we +should get altogether clear of the sandstone ranges, and enter a +tract of country of great fertility. On the 26th Mr. Walker +reported me to be so much better that he thought I might with +safety move on the next day on horseback, and preparations were +accordingly made for a start.</p> + +<p>A very serious change had taken place in our resources in one +respect, for only fourteen ponies now remained alive out of +twenty-six, and many of these were so weak and in such bad +condition as to be almost useless. On opening one of those which +had died about a hat-full of sand was found in its inside, and it +therefore appeared very probable that the ponies, having been +landed in the first instance on loose sandy soil producing only a +short and scanty vegetation, had taken up so much sand with their +food as to interfere with the functions of the stomach, and hence +had arisen their gradual wasting away and ultimate death. I +indeed entertain no doubt that the great loss of ponies we +sustained arose from this cause.</p> + +<p>CHANGE OF PLANS.</p> + +<p>This reduction in the number of our beasts of burden prevented +me from entertaining further hope of being able to proceed for +any great distance parallel to the coast in a southerly +direction. I therefore formed a depot at our present encampment, +burying all such stores as the remaining ponies were unable to +carry on. My intentions being merely to proceed as far as the +supply of provisions we could carry with us would last, then to +return to our position, and from thence to the schooner.</p> + +<p>DESCRIPTION OF A NEW VOLCANIC COUNTRY.</p> + +<p>On the morning of the 27th of February I was, in pursuance of +this plan of operations, lifted on my horse, and we moved on in a +south-west direction, across sandy plains covered with scrub and +a species of stringy-bark; but on travelling for about a mile and +a half the character of the country became more rocky and +difficult. After moving down a slight descent, we came to a rapid +stream, the same one on the banks of which I had heard the +natives' calls on the day I was wounded; the banks afforded good +food for the horses and trees which offered some shelter to the +men from the burning heat of the sun. I determined therefore to +halt here for breakfast; indeed the horses were so completely +knocked up that they were incapable of travelling any further. We +had already been compelled to abandon one of them in a dying +state since we had started in the morning.</p> + +<p>We halted for about an hour and a half and then recommenced +our journey, but were unfortunate enough to miss the marked +trees, and therefore wandered a good deal in our attempts to find +the right track. Whilst thus roaming in the wood we passed two +spots about one hundred yards distant from each other, which I +imagined to be native burying-places: they consisted of piles of +small loose stones so heaped together as to form a large mound; +these mounds were placed on flat bare rocks, one of them, the +smaller, had been recently made, the other was larger and much +older, for it was partly overgrown with plants.</p> + +<p>VIEW FROM THE SANDSTONE RANGE.</p> + +<p>About 2 P.M. we reached the extremity of the sandstone ridges +and a magnificent view burst upon us. From the summit of the +hills on which we stood an almost precipitous descent led into a +fertile plain below; and from this part, away to the southward, +for thirty to forty miles, stretched a low luxuriant country, +broken by conical peaks and rounded hills which were richly +grassed to their very summits. The plains and hills were both +thinly wooded, and curving lines of shady trees marked out the +courses of numerous streams. Since I have visited this spot I +have traversed large portions of Australia but have seen no land, +no scenery to equal it. We were upon the confines of a great +volcanic district, clothed with tropical vegetation, to which the +Isle of France bears a greater resemblance than any other portion +of the world which I am acquainted with. The rocks in both places +are identical; many of the trees are also the same; and there are +several other close and striking points of similarity.</p> + +<p>DESCENT FROM THE SANDSTONE RANGE INTO THE LOW COUNTRY.</p> + +<p>The descent into the lowlands, being very difficult, occupied +us nearly two hours; we then gained the bed of a ravine, in which +ran a clear stream: the ravine gradually widening out as we +reached the plains. I proceeded directly down it in the direction +of a lofty peaked hill which bore to the westward of south; and, +having gained a shoulder of this hill, we halted for the +night.</p> + +<p>Immediately above us a perfectly conical peak raised its head +to the height of at least five hundred feet;* this hill was +covered with rich grass, and there could be no doubt that it was +of volcanic origin, for the rock of which it was composed was a +vitrified lava resembling that of Ascension. It is from this lava +that the natives form their most deadly spears, for which purpose +it answers well, as it fractures easily, and the fracture +resembles that of the coarse green glass of England; indeed a +lump of this rock might readily be taken for a part of a glass +bottle.</p> + +<blockquote>(*Footnote. This hill may be easily recognized by a +precipitous cavity near the summit on its southern side, which +may be seen at some distance.)</blockquote> + +<p>The horses and sheep revelled in the luxuriant pasture. The +hill we had encamped on formed a sort of plateau; behind us stood +dark mountains, and in our front lay fertile plains, from which +green hills rose one behind the other until they were lost in the +distance, without any perceptible change in the character of the +country. To the eastward the prospect was similar, as well as to +the westward, except that in this direction the hills were more +lofty, and behind these the tropical sun was hurrying down with a +rapidity of movement never witnessed by those who live in the +gloomy climes of the north. The men all looked healthy and full +of hope; the cool sea-breeze refreshed my feverish frame: I +painted in fancy the rapid progress that this country would ere +long make in commerce and civilization, and my weakness and +fatigues were all forgotten.</p> + +<p>DISTANT EXPANSE OF WATER.</p> + +<p>February 28.</p> + +<p>At dawn this morning the sheep could not be found; tempted by +the goodness of the feed they had broken out from the little +enclosure we had made for them and had wandered off. The +stock-keeper and two of the men, having ascended the conical hill +behind us to try if they could see them from it, reported on +their return that they could descry a large lake or expanse of +water, which bore about south by west from us.</p> + +<p>VEXATIOUS DELAYS.</p> + +<p>Whilst the search for the sheep was continued I sent another +party up the hill to observe more particularly this sheet of +water, who returned with a report similar to that of the +stock-keeper, and I therefore determined, as soon as everything +had been prepared for starting, to move off in the direction +pointed out; unfortunately the sheep were not found till near +noon but, as I was afraid we should consequently lose a whole +day, I started directly after they were brought in. We had not +proceeded more than half a mile ere I had cause to repent this +measure, for two or three of the men suffered severely from +exposure to the sun, and one of them became so unwell that I was +obliged to halt the party.</p> + +<p>The spot I chose was the bank of a stream, shaded over by +dense trees and, if anything could have atoned for the +mortification of being compelled to halt when so anxious to get +on, the cool beauty of this spot would have done so.</p> + +<p>When the sun began to fall we again moved on, following the +course of the stream, which ran through a fertile valley about +two miles wide and bounded on either side by gently sloping +hills, extending through a country thinly wooded. We did not halt +until after sunset.</p> + +<p>March 1.</p> + +<p>This morning we resumed our route along the banks of the +stream, which continued gradually to increase in size. The marshy +ground now extended further from its banks and, in order to free +ourselves from this, I ascended some rising ground to the +eastward, along which we pursued our route until we fell in with +another rapid stream running from the eastward, and were again +involved in marshy land, which delayed us for some time ere we +found a point where loaded ponies could pass. At length however, +having succeeded in getting clear of these obstructions, we +continued our southerly course till we came to a deep stream +running from south-south-east; but, not being able to cross it +there, we travelled along its banks until a ford was found; and +as soon as we had passed over I halted for breakfast.</p> + +<p>BEAUTIFUL BASALTIC COUNTRY.</p> + +<p>We had traversed a most beautiful country this morning, +composed of basaltic rocks and fine alluvial soil, whilst, from +the size and number of the streams, it must be as well watered as +any region in the world. Before we had completed our breakfast +violent tropical rains set in; these were so cold that some of +the men got into the stream, the waters of which were +comparatively warm, and they thus saved themselves from the +painful feeling caused by very cold water falling on the pores, +which had been previously opened by profuse perspiration. The +heavy rains continued without intermission for the remainder of +the day and night, and two of the men were, on this occasion, +attacked with dysentery, caused, I believe, by cold and +exposure.</p> + +<p>DISCOVERY AND CHARACTER OF THE GLENELG RIVER.</p> + +<p>March 2.</p> + +<p>We started at dawn, crossing a series of low ridges which ran +out from a chain of hills to the eastward of us, and increased in +elevation as we proceeded to the south. We passed numerous +streams, and the country generally continued of a very rich and +fertile character: at last, from the top of one of these ridges, +there burst upon the sight a noble river, running through a +beautiful country, and, where we saw it, at least three or four +miles across, and studded with numerous verdant islands. I have +since seen many Australian rivers, but none to equal this either +in magnitude or beauty.</p> + +<p>I at once named it the Glenelg in compliment to the Right +Honourable Lord Glenelg, to whom we were all under great +obligations.</p> + +<p>IMPEDIMENTS FROM MARSHES AND STREAMS. INEFFECTUAL ATTEMPT TO +REACH IT.</p> + +<p>My anxiety to reach this stream was too great to allow me to +pass much time in looking at it, so, after I had taken a few +bearings to the most remarkable points in the neighbourhood, we +wound down the steep descent in front, and continued our advance +towards the river, but were still at least five miles from it +when we became involved in low marshy ground, traversed by deep +sluggish streams, the banks of which were encumbered by a dense +vegetation. Such a country, though admirably adapted both for +commerce and agriculture, offered almost insurmountable +difficulties to first explorers, at least to such as were +compelled to move rapidly. We at last became so completely +entangled in a marsh that further progress was hopeless, and we +halted to prepare breakfast whilst a party searched for a path by +which we might be enabled to proceed.</p> + +<p>My wound was still open and my sufferings from it were great; +whenever we moved on I was lifted on the pony, and when we halted +I was lifted off again and laid on the ground, where weakness +compelled me to remain during the whole period of our halt; and +on occasions like the present, when most anxious myself to search +for a route, I was obliged to lie still like a helpless child. My +mind was as active and as ready for exertion as ever, yet the +weak frame, of which it felt perfectly independent, was incapable +of seconding my most moderate wishes; and the annoyance I +experienced at finding myself in this state long retarded my +recovery and rendered me weaker every day.</p> + +<p>At length a route was found, and until sunset we continued our +journey over a very difficult but fertile country, and then +halted for the night on a small elevation, embosomed amidst +conical hills which rose from verdant meadows, watered by several +streams. The country was thinly timbered.</p> + +<p>The spot we had halted at was so thickly tenanted with +mosquitoes that it was impossible to sleep. I therefore laid +awake, listening to the cries of the sea-birds and watching the +brilliant fire-flies moving about in the dark foliage of the +trees.</p> + +<p>PROGRESS TOWARDS THE UPPER PART OF THE GLENELG.</p> + +<p>March 3.</p> + +<p>Before the first dawn I called some of the party and we +started off to visit the banks of the river. The first part of +our journey lay across rich grassy flats, thinly wooded with +large shady trees, or over gently rising grounds, on which grew +an abundance of young grass which appeared to be a species of +oat. These rising grounds were thinly wooded with a small sort of +gum tree, called in the Isle of France the Bois noir.</p> + +<p>We soon reached low marshy land intersected with large dry mud +flats and, as it was impossible, from the nature of the country, +to get the pony further, I tethered it, and we tried to make the +river on foot. The position which we had selected was however so +unfavourable that we did not succeed in reaching the river, and +my wound became so painful that I was scarcely able to crawl back +to the pony.</p> + +<p>We then returned to the tents, which we reached in the +afternoon, and I sent another party out to examine the country +and to see if they could find a more favourable position for the +tent where we might be less exposed to the mosquitoes. The +remainder of the men were employed in repairing the packsaddles +and in mending our shoes, which were in a very dilapidated +condition. The detached party, on their return, reported that +they could not find a more favourable position for the tents; and +that we appeared to be on a low marshy tongue of land which the +river nearly flowed round. We this day saw the tracks of an emu, +and of several large dogs, and kangaroos.</p> + +<p>ASCEND A HILL.</p> + +<p>March 4.</p> + +<p>By sunrise I had gained the foot of the highest hill near our +encampment. It is a very remarkable rocky eminence; in height +above the immediate base it was only 250 feet, but it rose by a +regular steep slope from the river, which was distant about four +miles. I do not think therefore that its height above the level +of the sea was less than 800 feet. I was unable to ride up this +hill, from the rocky nature of the ground, which was composed of +a basalt resembling that of the Isle of France; its sides were +slightly wooded and clothed with a fine grass nearly as high as +myself. From the heaviness of the dew, walking through a river +would have been about as agreeable as walking through this grass; +but when I had reached the summit the view amply repaid me for +the trouble of the ascent.</p> + +<p>VIEW OF THE GLENELG FROM IT.</p> + +<p>The river flowed through a rich and fertile country at the +base of the hill, having in some places hereabouts a triple +channel formed by large and apparently fertile islands, and its +width must have been at least three or four miles; it however ran +away so much to the north-eastward that I began to fear it might +be a great salt-water inlet, communicating in some manner with +Prince Regent's River, and that we might thus find ourselves upon +a large island. I had a good view of the valley for 10 or 12 +miles in an easterly direction over a country still very fertile, +but all that I saw tended to make me believe that the river had +some communication with the sea, somewhere towards the +north-east.</p> + +<p>We reached the camp before breakfast; and, as this was Sunday +and our ponies were rapidly improving from the goodness of their +feed, I determined to halt here for a day or two whilst a +detachment examined the country to ascertain, if possible, +whether we were on an island or not, and whether it was possible +to cross the river near our present position.</p> + +<p>March 5.</p> + +<p>This morning accordingly an exploring party started; and, as +it was necessary that they should traverse the country on foot so +as to be able to cross the low marshy grounds near the river, I +was, on account of my wound, unable to accompany them, and +therefore occupied myself in making a set of magnetic +observations.</p> + +<p>March 6.</p> + +<p>This afternoon Mr. Lushington and the party returned, having +found the northern bank of the river to consist of low marshy +ground covered with a luxuriant vegetation, and in some places +with such forests of mangrove trees that it was impossible to +approach the stream. They however succeeded in reaching one of +the channels of the river, which was upwards of 400 yards wide; +the rise and fall of tide was here about twenty feet, and the +current, of course, extremely rapid. They reported the river as +being, to all appearance, navigable, and that the tide only set +in from the westward.</p> + +<p>THE RIVER.</p> + +<p>As the southern bank of the river was bordered by high rocky +hills they saw nothing of the country in that direction. Their +report was on the whole satisfactory, for it appeared that the +good country still extended along the northern bank, and that we +were upon the mainland.</p> + +<p>PORPOISES SEEN.</p> + +<p>A good idea may be formed of the size of the river where the +party made it from the circumstance of their seeing a large shoal +of porpoises.</p> + +<p>IGUANA. DENSENESS OF VEGETATION.</p> + +<p>March 7.</p> + +<p>This morning we started early in a north-easterly direction +and travelled all day through a very fertile and picturesque +country. On our left lay hills covered with grass, and on our +right extensive plains, through which ran the Glenelg. The +vegetation in these was so luxuriant that it choked the fresh +water up; and whole plains were sometimes thus inundated ankle +deep. The country was thinly timbered, but in general the trees +were of a very great size: one particularly took my fancy, having +very large leaves about the colour of those of the +horse-chestnut, and which cast more shade around them than any +other which I have seen in Australia.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon, as we were passing through a densely +vegetated bottom, we saw a very large iguana run up a tree. This +brute was of a beautiful green colour and five or six feet long; +it sat on the tree, making a noise somewhat like a snake, and was +the largest and ugliest of the lizard tribe which I have ever +seen on land. As we could make no use of it I thought it would be +wanton to kill it; so, after examining it as well as we could, we +moved on, leaving it undisturbed.</p> + +<p>The black flies on this day changed their character, and +became much smaller than those I had hitherto seen.</p> + +<p>March 8.</p> + +<p>We made but little progress today on account of the denseness +of the vegetation, which was so luxuriant that we found great +difficulty in forcing our way through it; in several instances +indeed it was wholly impassable; and, after making an attempt to +penetrate through a jungle, we were obliged to turn about and +coast round it. The numerous streams we met with were also a +serious impediment, for many of these were so muddy and deep that +we had great difficulty in finding a place where we could +cross.</p> + +<p>SIGNS OF NATIVES.</p> + +<p>We halted for breakfast near a stream of this kind, under the +shade of a large group of the pandanus. This was evidently a +favourite haunt of the natives, who had been feeding upon the +almonds which this tree contains in its large complex fruit, and +to give a relish to their repast had mingled with it roasted +unios, or fresh-water mussels, which the stream produced in +abundance. The remains of some old spears were also lying about, +but the natives themselves were not visible.</p> + +<p>Immediately after breakfast I ascended a hill to see if we +could in any way get clear of the deep stream on the banks of +which we had breakfasted. The Glenelg was distant about three +miles to the south, and I found that, in order to disengage +ourselves from the waters which almost encompassed us, we must +turn off to the north-west, and thus almost double back on our +former track, as there was no other resource. I returned at once +to the party, and we spent the rest of the day in crossing two +deep streams, and then proceeded about a mile to the eastward, +where we halted for the night on the bank of a rocky watercourse, +but not containing a drop of water. The timber today was larger +than I had yet seen it, affording many new kinds, and one in +particular, resembling in appearance and quality the English +ash.</p> + +<p>March 9.</p> + +<p>We moved through a low country, densely vegetated, and still +abounding in deep sluggish streams, almost unapproachable, on +account of a dwarf bamboo and other tropical plants which clothed +their margins. Some of these streams were twenty feet deep and +upwards, and looked more like canals than natural +watercourses.</p> + +<p>CASCADE OF THE RIVER.</p> + +<p>The point where we halted for the night was not very distant +from the river, for its roaring, as it forced itself over a +rapid, could be distinctly heard. As it was important to +ascertain if it ceased to be navigable at this point, as well as +whether it could be here forded or not, I ordered a party to +proceed at daylight and examine it, and in the interim we laid +down to enjoy such repose as myriads of mosquitoes would allow +us.</p> + +<p>March 10.</p> + +<p>The party started at dawn and did not return until the +afternoon. They arrived at low-water at a point where the river +formed a series of rapids and was apparently broken into several +channels; the one which they reached was not more than fifty or +sixty yards wide, the tide at low water being full seven or eight +feet below the level of the rocks which formed the rapids, but at +high-water it rose, judging from the marks on the rocks, as many +feet above them. This channel would therefore cease to be +navigable for vessels at this point, but large boats could +proceed up it at high-water. There was no apparent possibility of +our being able to pass it hereabouts on account of the great +rapidity of the current. The river continued fresh below the +rapids, and their account of the character of the country they +saw was most satisfactory.</p> + +<p>INCONVENIENT HALTING PLACE.</p> + +<p>Almost immediately after they had entered the camp the rain +began to fall in such torrents that it was impossible for us to +move; this was unfortunate for where we were halted was unfit for +a day's resting-place, and we should consequently be compelled to +move on Sunday morning instead of making it a day of perfect +rest. The point where the party made the river today was about +south latitude 15 degrees 41 minutes; east longitude 124 degrees +53 minutes.</p> + +<p><a name="chapter9"></a></p> + +<h2>CHAPTER 9. TO THE UPPER GLENELG.</h2> + +<p>WORKS OF NATIVE INDUSTRY.</p> + +<p>March 11.</p> + +<p>The country we traversed this morning was still marshy, and +intersected by deep streams. The party had yesterday fixed upon a +point for us to encamp at; but, a sudden inundation having taken +place, we could not cross a stream which lay between us and the +spot selected, so that we were compelled about noon to halt at a +position very ill adapted for our purpose.</p> + +<p>VARIOUS TRACES OF NATIVES.</p> + +<p>Close to our camp was a large mass of basaltic rocks, on which +the natives had lately been, and had left behind them a few old +spears: some drawings were also scratched upon the rocks, +representing heads, hands, and other parts of the human frame: +they were however indifferently executed.</p> + +<p>Another branch of industry which had engaged their attention +was the manufacture of stone spearheads, the chips and remnants +of which were lying about on every side. As this looked very like +a preparation to give us a warm reception I kept upon the alert. +From constantly sleeping on the wet ground, and the exposure I +was obliged to undergo, such an attack of rheumatism had been +produced in my left hip and knee that I was not only crippled but +suffered such dreadful agony from my wounded limb that I was able +to pay but little attention to passing events.</p> + +<p>I crept about however as well as I could, and found that we +were in a very populous neighbourhood. At one place a large party +of natives appeared to have lived for some time, twelve bark beds +having been left in a circle round a fire. In this respect they +differ in custom from the natives of the southern parts of +Australia, who generally sleep all of a heap, or, at least, four +or five persons together, whereas each individual here appeared +to occupy his own little bark bed. In the course of the morning's +march we had passed a very neat native oven, or fireplace, much +more carefully constructed than anything of the kind I have since +seen; it consisted of a hole sunk eight inches deep in the earth, +which was quite circular, three feet in diameter, and very neatly +paved and lined with flat stones; the last article cooked here +had been a large quantity of turtles' eggs, the remnants of which +were lying scattered all around. This is a dish by no means to be +despised; and the discovery was rather interesting to me as it +proved that turtle came so far up the river. It rained hard +during the greater part of the day.</p> + +<p>March 12.</p> + +<p>As we were preparing to start this morning one of the ponies +was found to be so knocked up as to be unable to proceed; I +therefore abandoned it, though, I fear, in a state too far gone +to recover; but if perfect rest and abundance of good feed and +water could effect a restoration it had still a fair chance.</p> + +<p>DIFFICULTIES OF THE ROUTE.</p> + +<p>A ford over the stream had yesterday been found between the +Glenelg and our encampment, which we now succeeded in getting the +ponies over, and, in order to avoid another stream, which had +been seen to the eastward, we turned north-east, but in about +three miles were again at fault, on the banks of a deep brook. I +now turned due north and, after tracing the stream for about a +mile, discovered a ford across which, after a due proportion of +sticking in the mud and falling with their loads in the deep +water, we led all the ponies, and found ourselves happily +established in a jungle on the other side of it. The vegetation +here consisted of grass and reeds which rose so high and thick +that I could see nothing over them, although there was rising +land within a mile of us.</p> + +<p>We first endeavoured to push through this jungle in an +easterly direction; but, after having very resolutely made our +way onwards for about an hour, I saw some very high land to the +south-east of us, distant four or five miles, and therefore +changed the direction of our march to make for these hills; as +soon as we had gained a clear place in the jungle I halted for +breakfast, and, after resting for an hour, we continued, +notwithstanding the dreadful heat of the day, to move on, but +soon again came to a deep, sluggish stream which obliged us to +turn off to the north-east; and it was not until near nightfall +that we found a place where we could cross it.</p> + +<p>MOUNT LYELL.</p> + +<p>Having traversed the stream we proceeded to the foot of a very +lofty peak, the most remarkable hill in this part of the country, +and which I named Mount Lyell, after C. Lyell, Esquire. We here +pitched the tents, and scarcely was this operation performed ere +the rain fell in such torrents that the water stood even under +them to the depth of two or three inches, and yet the tents were +fixed in the best position that could be found. The night was +dark and stormy so that, even had a better place offered, it +would now have been useless to move; we therefore resigned +ourselves to our fate and lay down on our watery beds, which +possessed at least one merit, that they were free from +mosquitoes.</p> + +<p>March 13.</p> + +<p>Before the mists of morning had cleared away from the lofty +hills to the north-east of our encampment I had commenced their +ascent with a party of three men. To my great vexation, on taking +out the barometer at the bottom of the hill, it was broken, and I +could therefore no longer hope to be able to obtain the height of +remarkable elevations. I managed to ride the pony up the hill for +some time, but the broken and rocky nature of the ground obliged +me at last to walk, and I left the animal tethered in rich grass +higher than itself.</p> + +<p>VIEW FROM IT. MAGNIFICENT PROSPECT.</p> + +<p>When we gained the summit of the hill I found that in the +mists of the morning we had ascended the wrong peak. The one we +stood on was composed of basalt and at least twelve hundred feet +high; but Mount Lyell, another peak springing from the same +range, and not more than a mile to the eastward, must have been +four or five hundred feet higher. It was moreover distinguished +by a very remarkable feature, namely, a regular circle, as it +were, drawn round the peak, some two hundred feet below the +summit, and above this ring no trees grew; the conical peak which +reared its head above the region of trees being only clothed with +the greenest grass, whilst that on which I stood and all the +others I could see were thinly wooded to their very summits.</p> + +<p>The peak we had ascended afforded us a very beautiful view: to +the north lay Prince Regent's River, and the good country we were +now upon extended as far as the inlets which communicated with +this great navigable stream; to the south and south-westward ran +the Glenelg, meandering through as verdant and fertile a district +as the eye of man ever rested on. The luxuriance of tropical +vegetation was now seen to the greatest advantage, in the height +of the rainy season. The smoke of native fires rose in various +directions from the country, which lay like a map at our feet; +and when I recollected that all these natural riches of soil and +climate lay between two navigable rivers, and that its sea-coast +frontage, not much exceeding fifty miles in latitude, contained +three of the finest harbours in the world, in each of which the +tide rose and fell thirty-seven and a half feet, I could not but +feel we were in a land singularly favoured by nature.</p> + +<p>CONTINUATION OF ROUTE. TORRENTS OF RAIN.</p> + +<p>I remained for some time on the summit of this hill, enjoying +the prospect, and taking bearings. When this operation was +completed we returned to the camp and prepared once more to +proceed upon our route; but, to our misfortune, had not made more +than two or three miles through a fertile country when the rain +again fell in such torrents that we were compelled to halt. +Indeed none but those who have been in tropical countries can at +all conceive with what suddenness and force these storms burst +upon us.</p> + +<p>March 14.</p> + +<p>We this morning made an attempt to get clear of the marshes by +following a south-easterly course, and were thus forced up into a +range of lofty basaltic mountains, the slopes of which were of +the richest description. Had our ponies been provided with shoes +we could have travelled here with great speed and facility, but +the higher land was invariably covered with sharp pebbles over +which the unshod ponies could only move with pain and difficulty. +When however we had gained the summit of the range the view from +it was similar to that which I have just described. Mount +Wellington and Mount Trafalgar formed splendid objects, rearing +their bold rocky heads over St. George's Basin, which now bore +the appearance of being a vast lake. The pleasure of the prospect +was however in my eyes somewhat diminished from seeing on the +other side of the range so considerable a stream that I +anticipated great difficulty in crossing it; I therefore steered +a course somewhat more southerly than our former route and, +having reached the extremity of the range, we once more descended +into the fertile lowlands.</p> + +<p>GLENELG RIVER.</p> + +<p>Along these our course continued through an uninterrupted +succession of rich flats, thinly wooded but luxuriantly grassed, +until near sunset, when, as we were about descending the brow of +a low hill, I found that the Glenelg, having made a sudden turn, +was close to us, whilst in our front, and completely blocking up +our passage, there was a very large tributary which joined the +river from the north-east; I therefore halted the party here for +the night, and at once proceeded down to the river.</p> + +<p>It was quite fresh and running at the rate of more than five +knots an hour; the bed was composed of fine white sand, and even +close to the margin it was 2 1/2 fathoms in depth. The trees +which bordered it were of a gigantic height and size, I think the +largest that I have seen in Australia; whilst it was almost +impossible to get down to the stream, from the denseness of the +vegetation on its banks. Before we reached the main channel of +the river we had several smaller ones to cross, but of very +insignificant depth.</p> + +<p>I stood for some time watching this dark turbid stream +sweeping rapidly along, and could not but wonder where so great a +body of water could have its source. I had then seen no other +Australian rivers, but judging from description this differed +widely from them all.</p> + +<p>I have since visited many of the most noted Australian streams +and found this distinguished by many peculiar characteristics; +nor would I hesitate to say that, with exception perhaps of the +Murray, it will be found the most important on that continent; +and, taking into consideration its geographical position, the +fertility of the country on its banks, as far as it is yet known, +and the rise and fall of tide, it may perhaps not yield in +consideration even to the Murray.</p> + +<p>TORRENTS OF RAIN.</p> + +<p>I now examined the tributary stream which here joined the +Glenelg, and to my chagrin found that it was so much swollen by +the late rains as to be utterly impassable. To attempt to +construct a bridge over it would have been useless for the +adjacent ground was now so swampy the horses were bogged before +we got them near it. I wandered up its banks as far as I could +before nightfall, but could not succeed in finding any place in +our vicinity at which we might hope to effect our passage. Just +as it got dark the rain again began to pour in torrents; thus, if +possible, rendering our position worse than before, and I +returned late to the tents much dispirited at the unfavourable +weather we had encountered.</p> + +<p>RISE OF THE WATERS. MARKS OF INUNDATIONS.</p> + +<p>On going down to the Glenelg the next morning I found it so +swollen by the heavy rain of the preceding night as to render it +impossible to get near the main bed. The river was now far beyond +its banks, and in the forks of the trees above our heads we saw +driftwood, reeds, dead grass, etc., lodged at least fifteen feet +higher than the present level; and which could only have been +left there during some great flood. Whether these had frequently +recurred we had of course no means of judging, but during such +floods the whole of the very low country which we here saw to the +south-west of us must be inundated. I need scarcely add that in a +tropical country no ground could be conceived better adapted to +the growth of rice than the extensive levels which border the +Glenelg.</p> + +<p>A detached party now went of to search for a route by which we +could proceed. The stock-keeper came and reported that the sheep +were suffering greatly from the continued rain and exposure to +wet, several of them having died during the night; only five were +thus left alive out of the number we started with, and, one of +these being in a drooping state, I had it killed that we might +not lose the advantage of it altogether.</p> + +<p>NATIVES.</p> + +<p>Immediately on the other side of the tributary stream which +lay to the south of us there rose a high precipitous sandy range, +similar to those we had fallen in with on first landing. This +range completely overlooked our encampment from a distance, and +on it a party of natives had posted themselves. We saw the smoke +of their fires and heard their own cries and the yelling of their +dogs; and with the help of my telescope I once distinguished +their dusky forms moving about in the bush.</p> + +<p>COCKATOOS.</p> + +<p>A large flight of cockatoos which lay between us and them were +kept in a constant state of screaming anxiety from the movements +of one or the other party, and at last found their position so +unpleasant that they evacuated it and flew off to some more quiet +roosting-place. Their departure however was a serious loss to us, +as they played somewhat the same part that the geese once did in +the Capitol; for whenever our sable neighbours made the slightest +movement the watchful sentinels of the cockatoos instantly +detected it and, by stretching out their crests, screaming, +standing on their toes on the highest trees, with their wings +spread abroad to support them, and peering eagerly in the +direction where the movement was made, they gave us faithful +intimation of every motion.</p> + +<p>When therefore this advanced guard took unto themselves wings +and flew away I was obliged to keep all hands on the alert to +prevent a surprise. Whilst we were thus occupied our detachment +returned and reported the country to be utterly impracticable. I +determined however to examine it myself the next morning in order +to be quite satisfied upon so important a point.</p> + +<p>March 16.</p> + +<p>I moved off at dawn this morning with a party, but after +following the direction of the stream for several miles I found +that the whole of the land between it and the foot of the hills +had been rendered by the heavy rains a marsh quite impassable for +horses, which was rendered the more annoying as the swamp was not +more than a mile in width, so that this slight space alone +prevented us from pursuing our desired route. Nothing however was +now left us but to turn once more to the north-west, and thus to +endeavour to head the marsh.</p> + +<p>DANGER FROM NATIVES.</p> + +<p>Just as we had prepared to return home the cries of the +natives arose close to us; their fire was about half a mile away, +and their calls had already several times been heard. Now that +they were so near us I thought it better to load my second barrel +with ball, for I did not like their hanging about us in the way +they had done for several days. On putting my hand into my +haversack in order to prepare some ammunition I found, to my +great dismay, that I had taken in mistake one which belonged to +another man and which contained no ammunition; nor was there a +ball in possession of any person with me which would fit my gun +and, as I knew that the aim of those with me was not much to be +depended on, even under the coolest and most favourable +circumstances, I thought that in the moment of a desperate attack +it might be still less sure; this, added to the want of +confidence incident on finding oneself unarmed and dependent on +the protection of others, made me feel very uncomfortable until +we once more reached the tents.</p> + +<p>RAINS CONTINUE. TORRENTS OF RAIN.</p> + +<p>During the early part of the day the rain fell in torrents; +but, as it cleared off a little soon after our arrival, we +started in a north-westerly direction. Such violent storms of +thunder, lightning, and rain set in when we had made about two or +three miles that I was again obliged to halt; and as it continued +to rain heavily throughout the night, our situation, which was +already bad, might now be said to be hourly growing worse; and it +can readily be conceived that, between rheumatism in my wounded +limb, lying in water, and vexation at the constant difficulties +we experienced, I was too much harassed to be able to sleep.</p> + +<p>SWAMPS.</p> + +<p>The continued rain during the night had necessarily rendered +the marsh far more impracticable than before; but, as no other +route to the southward could be found on account of the river +which lay upon either hand, I was compelled to wait until the +ground again in some measure dried. But it would have been +equally as impossible to beat a retreat as it was to get forward, +for we were in a manner surrounded by swampy land, and when the +loads were placed upon the ponies they sank nearly up to the +shoulders in a bog in whichever direction we attempted to move; +but as our present position would have been unsafe in the event +of an extensive inundation taking place I judged it necessary at +all events to reach a somewhat elevated outlying hill of +sandstone which was distant about two miles. This point we +succeeded at last in gaining, although not without severely +injuring and straining some of the ponies in effecting it. This +rising ground was however well situated for our camp under +present circumstances: it was composed of porous sandstone, which +in these climates dries almost immediately after rain. There was +plenty of dead wood upon it and it was surrounded by +richly-grassed flats, whilst from the base gushed forth a clear +spring, which then murmured along a purling brook, traversing the +flat on which the ponies were tethered.</p> + +<p>SNAKE AND KANGAROO.</p> + +<p>Close to this spot the attention of Mr. Lushington was drawn +to a curious misshapen mass which came advancing from some bushes +with a novel and uncouth motion. He fired and it fell, and on +going up to it he found that it was a small kangaroo enveloped in +the folds of a large snake, a species of Boa. The kangaroo was +now quite dead, and flattened from the pressure of the folds of +the snake which, being surprised at the disturbance it met with, +was beginning to uncoil itself, when Mr. Lushington drew out a +pistol and shot it through the head. It was of a brownish yellow +colour and eight feet six inches long. The kangaroo we found very +good eating; and Mr. Walker, who ate a portion of the snake, +considered it to be as great a delicacy as an eel, but rather +tougher.</p> + +<p>There fortunately was an elevated pinnacle of rocks on the +rising ground upon which we were encamped; and from the top of +these I was able in the course of the day to get bearings and +angles to many important objects; I could also see many fixed +points in my survey, so that the day could not be considered as +altogether a lost one.</p> + +<p>CONDITION OF THE PONIES.</p> + +<p>March 18.</p> + +<p>Throughout the whole of this day the rain poured in torrents +so that the ponies, notwithstanding the goodness of the feed, +began again to suffer from cold and exposure to the weather. They +were so wild that we could not venture to let them run loose, +and, as it was impossible to tether all of them under trees, the +majority were left exposed to the pitiless pelting of the storms; +and they certainly made a very wretched appearance as they stood +with their sterns presented to the blast, and the water pouring +from their sides in perfect streams. I do not know whether this +was a very extraordinary season, but it is certain that if all +rainy periods in North-West Australia resemble it, to attempt to +explore the country at this time of the year would be fruitless. +Such a good supply of rain is a great advantage to an occupied +country through which regular lines of communication exist; as it +then raises but slight impediments to travellers; but the case is +very different to first explorers who have to find a ford over +every stream and a passage across every swamp, and who constantly +run the risk of involving themselves in a perfectly impassable +region.</p> + +<p>NATIVES NEAR THE CAMP.</p> + +<p>March 19.</p> + +<p>This morning was also ushered in with torrents of rain, +chequered by occasional intervals of fine weather of perhaps half +an hour's duration. Another sheep died and several of the ponies +were very unwell. The men who had been shifting the tethers of +the horses at noon returned with the intelligence that, during +the period of their absence from the encampment, a party of +natives must have been close to us, watching our movements, for +that when they went out there were no traces of them near the +camp, which were now discernible in nearly every direction around +us.</p> + +<p>I selected the best bushman of my party and went off to see +whether anything was to be apprehended from these natives, but I +soon found that the report was in some degree exaggerated. Some +natives had crept up to within about a hundred yards of us, +probably with the intention of making a reconnaissance, and of +then framing their future plans; they had however been disturbed +by the return of the men from the horses, and then made off. It +appears that they had approached us by walking up a stream of +water so as to conceal their trail, and then turned out of the +stream up its right bank; and although they had carefully trod in +one another's foot-marks, so as to conceal their number, we could +make out the traces of at least six or seven different men, which +we followed to the spot where, whilst creeping about to watch us, +they had been disturbed. From this point these children of the +bush had disappeared, as it were by magic: not a twig was broken, +not a stone was turned, and we could not perceive that the heavy +drops of rain had been shaken from a single blade of grass. We +made wide casts in different directions but, not being able to +hit on their trail, I returned to the tents, more than ever +convinced of the necessity of being constantly on the watch +against beings who were often near us when we least dreamt of +their presence, and, in an unguarded moment, might so easily +surprise and spear some of the party.</p> + +<p>APPEARANCE OF THE COUNTRY.</p> + +<p>The rain continued to fall throughout the 20th, rendering our +condition every hour worse. Towards noon however the weather +cleared a little, and in a fine interval I mounted a high range +of basaltic hills which lay about a mile and a half to the +westward. These hills were the highest which I had yet ascended; +and from them I gained a very extensive view. The farthest +extremity of the sandstone range which lay to the southward and +eastward did not appear to be more than ten or twelve miles +distant. Behind this barren range there again rose the conical +tops of basaltic hills, clothed in the greenest grass; and beyond +these, in the far south-east, I made out with the telescope a +range of very lofty hills, which, stretching their heads high +into the clouds, left me without means of forming any idea of +their elevation: but even the portion of them which met my view +must have had a very considerable altitude. I took a set of +angles from this point but the mistiness of the day rendered it +very unfit for my purpose. Whilst I was thus occupied, we heard +the cries and calls of a party of natives between us and the +tents. From the loudness and proximity of these I augured badly +and therefore hurried my return; but we neither saw the natives +themselves nor their tracks, and were quite in ignorance as to +what had been their intentions. Soon after sunset the weather +cleared up a little, and the stars, which came peeping out, +promised well for the next day.</p> + +<p>NATIVES NEAR THE CAMP AGAIN.</p> + +<p>March 21.</p> + +<p>Although it had rained during the night and the sun this +morning rose bright and clear the country was still impassable +owing to the late continued torrents. I therefore went out with a +detachment for the purpose of exploring a route by which we could +proceed the next day, as well as to define some more points in +the country we were about to enter. In the course of our walk we +crossed the track of the natives we had heard yesterday. Their +party must have been large, for they approached to within about +three hundred yards of the tents, leaving a trail as broad and +large as was made by our ponies and party together. I did not +much like their hanging about us for so many days as I rather +mistrusted their intentions; their object however appeared to +have been to examine the ponies, for they had only come as far as +the tethering ground and, after wandering about there a little, +had again retired. We were unfortunate in our search for a good +line of country by which to proceed, but I made some important +additions to my map.</p> + +<p>MARSH AND SANDSTONE RANGE.</p> + +<p>March 22.</p> + +<p>As fine weather had apparently set in again we this morning +resumed our journey. The poor ponies looked very weak and +wretched when they were brought up to start, and we were all +ragged, dirty, and worn out from the constant exposure to wind +and rain; indeed our appearance was altogether very miserable on +moving off, and our progress, too, very slow and fatiguing, both +to ourselves and the horses, on account of the swampy nature of +the ground; but we strenuously persevered until near noon, when I +halted for breakfast at the foot of some lofty hills, at the base +of which ran the stream which was giving us so much trouble. As +soon as we had despatched our scanty breakfast I tried with a +party to find a passage across the marsh, but our search was in +vain and, on examining the sandstone range on the other side of +the stream, I found it so precipitous that our weak ponies could +not possibly have clambered up it.</p> + +<p>NATIVE BRIDGE.</p> + +<p>Whilst on our return we found a native bridge, formed of a +fallen tree, which rested against two others and was secured in +its position by forked boughs.</p> + +<p>PRECIPITOUS PASS.</p> + +<p>I was thus obliged to continue to travel in a north-east +direction for the remainder of the afternoon, when we found, at +last, a passage over the marsh, but made vain attempts to cross +the sandstone range in no less than four different places; the +ponies were so weak and the route so precipitous that each time +we were obliged to return. At length we reached the watershed, +from one side of which the streams ran down to Prince Regent's +River, and from the other to the Glenelg; the rocks on the south +side were ancient sandstone resting on basalt, and on the +opposite the basalt crept out, forming elevated hills. This +position was remarkable both in a geological and geographical +point of view; and, the sandstone range over against us looking +rather more accessible than it had previously done, I determined +to halt here for the night and examine the country; but my +resolution was scarcely formed ere such heavy storms of rain, +accompanied by thunder and lightning, came on as totally to +prevent me from seeing to any distance or taking any +bearings.</p> + +<p>On entering the old red sandstone district again the parakeets +became once more common, and the green ants reappeared. These +last seem to be solely confined to the sandstone, for I did not +see one without its limits.</p> + +<p>ASCENT OF THE SANDSTONE RANGE.</p> + +<p>March 23.</p> + +<p>This morning we made a more fortunate effort to ascend the +sandstone range which had yesterday so baffled our efforts; and +having commenced the ascent at 6 A.M. reached the summit at 10, +but the poor little ponies were dreadfully exhausted. Having now +established ourselves upon this narrow elevated tableland the +next thing was to descend on the other side. The prospect to the +southward and eastward was not very cheering, for before we could +make any further progress in either of those directions we had a +perfect precipice to get down, at the foot of which lay a +beautiful and verdant valley about three miles wide, diversified +with wood and water; whilst a large cascade which could be seen +falling in a dark forest on the other side added much to the +scenery. Beyond the valley rose again rocky sandstone ranges, but +I knew that the width of these was inconsiderable.</p> + +<p>DESCENT ON THE OPPOSITE SIDE.</p> + +<p>After a very tedious search we discovered a sort of pass +leading diagonally down the face of the precipice; but before +attempting to take the ponies over this it was necessary to move +many large rocks and stones, to cut down trees, and otherwise +make it practicable for them. All hands however set cheerfully to +work, and by 1 P.M. the whole party had safely reached the bottom +of the precipice. The valley that we were in was very fertile +but, from the incessant rain which had lately fallen, the centre +part of it had become an impassable swamp, and we were thus once +more obliged to turn to the northward in order to travel round +it: but as rest and food were necessary both for horses and men +we halted at the foot of the sandstone range for breakfast.</p> + +<p>REMARKABLE FRILLED LIZARD. BEAUTIFUL COUNTRY.</p> + +<p>As we were pursuing our route in the afternoon we fell in with +a specimen of the remarkable frilled lizard (Chlamydosaurus +kingii); this animal measures about twenty-four inches from the +tip of the nose to the point of its tail, and lives principally +in trees, although it can run very swiftly along the ground: when +not provoked or disturbed it moves quietly about, with its frill +lying back in plaits upon the body: but it is very irascible and, +directly it is frightened, elevates the frill or ruff and makes +for a tree; where if overtaken it throws itself upon its stern, +raising its head and chest as high as it can upon the forelegs, +then doubling its tail underneath the body and displaying a very +formidable set of teeth. From the concavity of its large frill it +boldly faces any opponent, biting fiercely whatever is presented +to it, and even venturing so far in its rage as to fairly make a +fierce charge at its enemy. We repeatedly tried the courage of +this lizard, and it certainly fought bravely whenever attacked. +From the animal making so much use of this frill as a covering +and means of defence for its body this is most probably one of +the uses to which nature intended the appendage should be +applied.</p> + +<p>We at length reached the watershed connecting the country we +had left with that we were entering upon, and were now again +enabled to turn to the eastward and thus to travel round the +swamp. This watershed consisted principally of a range of +elevated hills from which streams were thrown off to the Glenelg +and to Prince Regent's River. The scenery here was very fine, but +I have so often before described the same character of landscape +that it will be sufficient to say we again looked down from high +land on a very fertile country, covered with a tropical +vegetation and lying between two navigable rivers. I can compare +this to no other Australian scenery, for I have met with nothing +in the other portions of the continent which at all resembles it. +When we had nearly headed the valley the night closed in so +rapidly on us that I was obliged to halt the party; and by the +time the arrangements for security and rest were completed it was +quite dark.</p> + +<p>CURIOUS NEST.</p> + +<p>March 24.</p> + +<p>This morning we started as soon as it was light and, +continuing our route round the valley, passed the beautiful +cascade seen yesterday and, after fording a clear running brook +like an English trout stream, we began to ascend the next +sandstone range. On gaining the summit we fell in with a very +remarkable nest, or what appeared to me to be such, and which I +shall describe more particularly when I advert to the natural +history of this part of the country. We had previously seen +several of them, and they had always afforded us food for +conjecture as to the agent and purpose of such singular +structures.</p> + +<p>DEEP VALLEY.</p> + +<p>Soon after quitting this nest we found a very convenient pass +through a deep and fertile valley, which led directly up into the +heart of the sandstone range; a fine stream ran through it in +which were several large reservoirs of fresh water; the hills on +each side were lofty, being at times of a rounded character, and +at others broken into precipitous and fantastic cliffs; the +country was thinly wooded with large timber, and the varied +scenery, the facility which the country afforded for travelling, +and the pleasure incident on finding ourselves clear of the +marshy ground which had so long encumbered our movements, +combined to make me push along as fast as possible; the only +check was the heat of the sun; and it should always be borne in +mind that no parallel whatever can be instituted between travels +in tropical and extra-tropical Australia, for in the former the +more exhausting nature of the climate unfits both men and horses +for making long journeys, and indeed renders it almost impossible +to travel during the heat of the day, whilst the difficult nature +of the ground caused by the dense vegetation, the jungles, the +ravines, and marshes, render it altogether impracticable to move +at night through an unknown country.</p> + +<p>WILD OATS.</p> + +<p>We crossed during the day several recent tracks of natives but +did not fall in with the natives themselves; we also saw many +kangaroos, and halted for the night on an elevated basaltic +ridge, at a point close to which there was a large crop of the +grain which we called wild oats. This is a remarkable vegetable +production, growing to the height of from five to six feet; in +the stalk, the shape, and mode of insertion of the leaves it is +similar to the oat of Europe; the manner in which the seeds grow +in the two plants is also the same, and the seeds are nearly of +the same size, but the Australian oat is furnished with a beard +like the barley. When hungry I have repeatedly eaten these oats, +which in some parts grow in such abundance that several acres of +them might be mown at once; and I have little doubt that this +plant would with cultivation turn out to be a very great addition +to our tropical grains.*</p> + +<blockquote>(*Footnote. I am informed that the seeds of it which +I introduced into the Isle of France in 1838 have greatly +multiplied and that the plants are in a very flourishing +state.)</blockquote> + +<p>March 25.</p> + +<p>This morning we resumed our journey, crossing a succession of +basaltic valleys. The vegetation was luxuriant beyond +description; and it was ludicrous to see the heavy-tailed +kangaroos leaping and floundering about in the long grass when +they had quitted their beaten pathways and were suddenly +disturbed by our approach.</p> + +<p>CURIOUS BIRDS.</p> + +<p>In crossing the second of these large valleys we saw two large +white and black birds, more like pelicans than any other kind I +am acquainted with; they had webbed feet, and the colour and form +of their body resembled that of the pelican, but the head and +beak were very different; after flying two or three times round +our heads, well out of shot, so as to have a good peep at us, +they flew away, and for the first and last time I saw this +curious bird.</p> + +<p>We now ascended a ridge of sandstone tableland which crossed +our route: this was about three miles in width, and at its +southern extremity were two lofty basaltic hills, from between +which a small valley led down into another very large one that +was the general receptacle of the streams which came pouring in +from all directions. This last might be considered as a good type +of the valleys in this portion of the country: at its northern +extremity it was about four miles wide, being bounded on all +sides by rocky wooded ranges with dark gullies from which +numerous streams and springs poured forth their watery +contributions to the main one. This last ran nearly down the +centre of the principal valley, the width of which gradually +contracted towards the south, where it terminated almost in a +point, having a narrow lateral opening at the south-west end of +not more than a quarter of a mile wide, and bounded by steep +cliffs on each side, so as to form a perfect gorge, the direction +of which was due west. In about a mile and a half this gorge met +a cross valley, running from the south to the north, down which +the waters were poured, so as to run back as it were upon their +former course.</p> + +<p>BASALTIC VALLEY.</p> + +<p>We halted for the day in the main valley, which from the run +of the waters above described must necessarily have been very +elevated; it was, moreover, nearly level, forming indeed a sort +of enclosed plateau, so that the streams, which both on entering +and quitting it ran bubbling merrily along, preserved whilst in +it a sluggish and scarcely perceptible course. When to this I add +that it was composed of basaltic rocks and received the deposit +of such an extent of elevated basaltic land I need scarcely add +that it was highly fertile. I believe that these valleys, which +are very common in North-Western Australia and contain from four +to five thousand acres each, are as rich as any other spots upon +the globe, and moreover possess the great advantage of being +situated close to navigable rivers.</p> + +<p>March 26.</p> + +<p>This morning we moved down the valley in which we had been +encamped yesterday and, as it was thinly wooded, we experienced +no difficulty whatever until the main stream suddenly turned off +from south to due west; this was a sufficient proof that the +gorge of the valley was on its western side, but I was not +anxious to follow the course of the water, from the apprehension +of being led into low and marshy land; I thought also that a low +ridge which I saw to the south could easily be crossed, and that +we should thus gain access to a valley similar to that we were +in. I therefore resolved to cross the stream at the first ford we +could find, and after a little trouble we discovered one suited +to our purpose through which the ponies passed in safety.</p> + +<p>IMPASSABLE SANDSTONE RANGE.</p> + +<p>We then continued our route in a due southerly direction until +we reached the low range which I had before seen; this range +turned out to be composed of sandstone, and where we made it it +was so rocky and precipitous as to be quite impracticable. We +therefore travelled along it in an easterly direction for about +three miles, but throughout this distance it presented no single +pass through which I could hope to penetrate. The sun having now +become very powerful we halted for breakfast; and whilst this +meal was preparing, I sent out a detached party to search for a +road, which soon returned to report that they were able to find +no path by which we could proceed.</p> + +<p>I did not however like to retrace our footsteps without having +made a careful search; and although my wound was still open and +very painful I rapidly swallowed a portion of my allowance of +damper and started with another detachment on foot to examine the +country. The sandstone range, which ran nearly east and west, was +terminated everywhere throughout its southern side by perfectly +precipitous rocks, at the foot of which lay a fertile valley, +resembling the one in which we had encamped yesterday except that +it was on a much lower level. The position that we were in +appeared to be the pass by which the natives communicated with +the country to the south of us, for marks of them were visible +everywhere about, but they could easily clamber about these +precipitous rocks, though it was quite impossible to get the +ponies down, even by forming a path, as we had often previously +done.</p> + +<p>PAINTED CAVE. DRAWING ON ROOF OF A CAVE.</p> + +<p>Finding that it would be useless to lose more time in +searching for a route through this country I proceeded to rejoin +the party once more; but whilst returning to them my attention +was drawn to the numerous remains of native fires and encampments +which we met with, till at last, on looking over some bushes at +the sandstone rocks which were above us, I suddenly saw from one +of them a most extraordinary large figure peering down upon me. +Upon examination this proved to be a drawing at the entrance to a +cave, which on entering I found to contain, besides, many +remarkable paintings.</p> + +<p>The cave appeared to be a natural hollow in the sandstone +rocks; its floor was elevated about five feet from the ground, +and numerous flat broken pieces of the same rock, which were +scattered about, looked at a distance like steps leading up to +the cave, which was thirty-five feet wide at the entrance and +sixteen feet deep; but beyond this several small branches ran +further back. Its height in front was rather more than eight +feet, the roof being formed by a solid slab of sandstone about +nine feet thick and which rapidly inclined towards the back of +the cave, which was there not more than five feet high.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="grey1-16"></a><img alt="" src="images/grey1-16.jpg"></p> + +<p><b>15.1. Figure drawn on the roof of Cave, discovered March +26th.</b></p> +</center> + +<p>On this sloping roof the principal figure (Number 1) which I +have just alluded to, was drawn; in order to produce the greater +effect the rock about it was painted black and the figure itself +coloured with the most vivid red and white. It thus appeared to +stand out from the rock; and I was certainly rather surprised at +the moment that I first saw this gigantic head and upper part of +a body bending over and staring grimly down at me.</p> + +<p>DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES.</p> + +<p>It would be impossible to convey in words an adequate idea of +this uncouth and savage figure; I shall therefore only give such +a succinct account of this and the other paintings as will serve +as a sort of description to accompany the annexed plates. The +dimensions of the figure were:</p> + +<p>Length of head and face 2 feet.<br> +Width of face 17 inches.<br> +Length from bottom of face to navel 2 feet 6 inches.</p> + +<p>Its head was encircled by bright red rays, something like the +rays which one sees proceeding from the sun when depicted on the +sign-board of a public house; inside of this came a broad stripe +of very brilliant red, which was coped by lines of white, but +both inside and outside of this red space were narrow stripes of +a still deeper red, intended probably to mark its boundaries; the +face was painted vividly white, and the eyes black, being however +surrounded by red and yellow lines; the body, hands, and arms +were outlined in red, the body being curiously painted with red +stripes and bars.</p> + +<p>DRAWING OF FOUR HEADS.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="grey1-17"></a><img alt="" src="images/grey1-17.jpg"></p> + +<p><b>15.2. Figure drawn on side of Cave, discovered March +26th.</b></p> +</center> + +<p>Upon the rock which formed the left hand wall of this cave, +and which partly faced you on entering, was a very singular +painting (Number 2) vividly coloured, representing four heads +joined together. From the mild expression of the countenances I +imagined them to represent females, and they appeared to be drawn +in such a manner and in such a position as to look up at the +principal figure which I have before described; each had a very +remarkable head-dress, coloured with a deep bright blue, and one +had a necklace on. Both of the lower figures had a sort of dress +painted with red in the same manner as that of the principal +figure, and one of them had a band round her waist. Each of the +four faces was marked by a totally distinct expression of +countenance, and, although none of them had mouths, two, I +thought, were otherwise rather good looking. The whole painting +was executed on a white ground, and its dimensions were:</p> + +<p>Total length of painting 3 feet 6 3/4 inches.<br> +Breadth across two upper heads 2 feet 6 inches.<br> +Ditto across the two lower ones 3 feet 1 1/2 inches.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="grey1-18"></a><img alt="" src="images/grey1-18.jpg"></p> + +<p><b>15.3. Oval drawing in Cave, discovered March 26th.</b></p> +</center> + +<p>The next most remarkable drawing in the cave (Number 3) was an +ellipse, three feet in length and one foot ten inches in breadth: +the outside line of this painting was of a deep blue colour, the +body of the ellipse being of a bright yellow dotted over with red +lines and spots, whilst across it ran two transverse lines of +blue. The portion of the painting above described formed the +ground, or main part of the picture, and upon this ground was +painted a kangaroo in the act of feeding, two stone spearheads, +and two black balls; one of the spearheads was flying to the +kangaroo, and one away from it; so that the whole subject +probably constituted a sort of charm by which the luck of an +enquirer in killing game could be ascertained.</p> + +<p>TWO OTHER DRAWINGS.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="grey1-19"></a><img alt="" src="images/grey1-19.jpg"></p> + +<p><b>15.4. Figure drawn in Cave, discovered March 26th.</b></p> +</center> + +<p>There was another rather humorous sketch (Number 4) which +represented a native in the act of carrying a kangaroo; the +height of the man being three feet. The number of drawings in the +cave could not altogether have been less than from fifty to +sixty, but the majority of them consisted of men, kangaroos, +etc.; the figures being carelessly and badly executed and having +evidently a very different origin to those which I have first +described. Another very striking piece of art was exhibited in +the little gloomy cavities situated at the back of the main +cavern. In these instances some rock at the sides of the cavity +had been selected, and the stamp of a hand and arm by some means +transferred to it; this outline of the hand and arm was then +painted black, and the rock about it white, so that on entering +that part of the cave it appeared as if a human hand and arm were +projecting through a crevice admitting light.</p> + +<p>After having discovered this cave I returned to the party and, +directing them to prepare for moving on, I ordered that as soon +as all was ready they should proceed past the cave, so that all +would have an opportunity of examining it, and in the meantime I +returned in order to make sketches of the principal paintings. +The party soon arrived and, when my sketches and notes were +completed, we retraced a portion of our route of this morning, +moving round the sandstone ridge through one portion of which I +saw a sort of pass which I thought might perhaps afford us a +means of egress. I therefore halted the party and moved up with +Corporal Auger to examine it. After proceeding some distance we +found a cave larger than the one seen this morning; of its actual +size however I have no idea, for being pressed for time I did not +attempt to explore it, having merely ascertained that it +contained no paintings.</p> + +<p>INTAGLIO CUT IN A ROCK.</p> + +<p>I was moving on when we observed the profile of a human face +and head cut out in a sandstone rock which fronted the cave; this +rock was so hard that to have removed such a large portion of it +with no better tool than a knife and hatchet made of stone, such +as the Australian natives generally possess, would have been a +work of very great labour. The head was two feet in length, and +sixteen inches in breadth in the broadest part; the depth of the +profile increased gradually from the edges where it was nothing, +to the centre where it was an inch and a half; the ear was rather +badly placed, but otherwise the whole of the work was good, and +far superior to what a savage race could be supposed capable of +executing. The only proof of antiquity that it bore about it was +that all the edges of the cutting were rounded and perfectly +smooth, much more so than they could have been from any other +cause than long exposure to atmospheric influences.</p> + +<p>ROUTE CONTINUED. HIGH GRASS.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="grey1-20"></a><img alt="" src="images/grey1-20.jpg"></p> + +<p><b>16. Head cut in Sandstone Rock. Captain Grey, delt. G. +Foggo, Lithographer. M. and N. Hanhart, Lithographic +Printers.</b></p> +</center> + +<p>After having made a sketch of this head (see the accompanying +plate) I returned to the party and, as I had not been able to +find a path which would lead us across the sandstone ridge, we +continued our course round it, retracing our steps until we +reached the stream which had been crossed this morning, and then +moved westward, keeping along its southern bank until we had +turned the sandstone range and reached another stream running +from the south, which we traced up in the direction of its +source, travelling through a series of basaltic valleys of so +luxuriant a character that those of the party who were not very +tall travelled, as they themselves expressed it, between two high +green walls, over which they could not see; and these green walls +were composed of rich grass which the ponies ate with avidity. On +a subsequent occasion when we visited this valley we had to call +to one another in order to ascertain our relative positions when +only a few yards apart; and yet the vegetation was neither rank +nor coarse, but as fine a grass as I have ever seen.</p> + +<p>REFLECTIONS.</p> + +<p>We halted for the night in one of these lovely valleys; a +clear stream bubbled along within about fifty yards of us and, +about a mile beyond, two darkly-wooded basaltic hills raised +their heads, and between these and the stream our ponies were +feeding in grass higher than themselves. I sat in the fading +light, looking at the beautiful scenery around me, which now for +the first time gladdened the eyes of Europeans; and I wondered +that so fair a land should only be the abode of savage men; and +then I thought of the curious paintings we had this day seen, of +the timid character of the natives, of their anomalous position +in so fertile a country, and wondered how long these things were +to be. With so wide a field of conjecture before me, thought +naturally thronged on thought, and the night was far advanced ere +I laid down to seek repose from the fatigues of the day.</p> + +<p>DEEP STREAM.</p> + +<p>March 27.</p> + +<p>The ponies having been routed out of their long and excellent +feed, amongst which indeed it was no easy matter to find them, we +moved on. I could not but reflect how different our position and +the condition of the ponies would have been had we known as much +of the country at first starting as we did at present; but these +reflections were now useless. With the exception of one small +rocky valley, the whole of our morning's journey was through a +rich and fertile country until we reached a deep stream, thirty +or forty yards wide and apparently navigable for large boats up +to this point; it ran away to the westward, but with a current +scarcely perceptible.</p> + +<p>DIFFICULT APPROACH TO IT.</p> + +<p>It was very difficult to approach this stream on account of +the marshy nature of its banks, which were overgrown with bamboo +and, even if we could have got the ponies to it, it was not +fordable here. We therefore turned up it in an easterly direction +to look for a passage over it; and in so doing were necessarily +compelled to cross many smaller streams and a great deal of +swampy ground in which some of the most weakly of the ponies got +bogged and were only extricated with great difficulty. However +annoying this was I could not but smile at the distress of some +of the men, who had contracted a friendship for the animals they +had so long led, when one of their favourites got into a +difficulty. The exclamations of Ruston the old sailor were +particularly amusing, as, according to the position in which the +animal got bogged, he used to roar out for someone "to come and +give his pony a heave upon the starboard or larboard quarters;" +and once, when violently alarmed at the danger he imagined his +pet pony to be in, he shouted amain, "By G---, Sir, she'll go +down by the stern." At last however we got clear of the marsh, +and reached a rocky gorge where this stream issued from the +hills, and here we stopped for breakfast</p> + +<p>This spot was very picturesque. The river as it issued from +the gorge in the high wooded hills first formed a series of +cascades, and then at the mouth of the gorge expanded into a +large pool. It was at this point, although only a secondary +stream in this country, far larger than any of the rivers of +South-Western Australia. At the gorges, where they issue from the +hills, its banks were clothed with the pandanus, lofty gum trees, +and a very luxuriant vegetation. We first sought for a ford up +the river in the direction of the rapids, but our search was +fruitless. On returning to breakfast I found that the men had +caught three fish and one of the long-necked fresh-water turtle +which are common over the whole of this continent. Mr. Lushington +had also shot several black cockatoos so that we were supplied +with a meal of meat, a luxury we had not enjoyed for a long +time.</p> + +<p>CROSS A LARGE RIVER.</p> + +<p>After breakfast Corporal Auger started alone and returned in +about an hour to report that he had found a ford across the river +close to us. I therefore ordered the ponies to be brought up and +we at once moved on. The river where we crossed it in south +latitude 15 degrees 49 minutes, east longitude 125 degrees 6 +minutes, was about a hundred yards wide. It was however nowhere +more than knee deep as we wound through it, following a +circuitous course; but we passed very deep parts on each side, +and I could not but admire the perseverance of Auger in having +discovered so very intricate a ford as this was. There were +several minor channels to the stream not much wider than an +English ditch; they were however very deep and went winding along +through groves of the pandanus and lofty reeds, which formed +leafy tunnels above them. It was some time before we got rid of +the main stream, and we then found ourselves on a narrow terrace +of land which was bounded on the left by rocky cliffs, and on the +right by a large tributary of the stream we had just crossed. +This tributary was not fordable here so we were compelled to +travel up the terrace where our way was much impeded by the +luxuriant vegetation and by fallen trees of great magnitude; +indeed of a size which those alone who have traversed tropical +virgin forests can conceive.</p> + +<p>That we could not get off this terrace was the more provoking +from seeing, immediately on the other side of the stream, one of +those wide open basaltic valleys which I have so often mentioned. +We at length reached the point where the stream issued from the +high land and, having here forded it, entered the large valley, +but in its centre we found another impassable stream and, in +order to turn this, were obliged to travel round the valley; but +before we could gain the head of it we had to cross two streams +which ran into it on the eastern side. These however gave us but +little trouble.</p> + +<p>NATIVE HUT.</p> + +<p>On the tongue of land between them we found a native hut which +differed from any before seen, in having a sloping roof. After +passing this hut we began to wind up a rocky ascent, and just at +sunset reached the watershed, which threw off streams to the +north and south: the valley which lay immediately to the south of +us appearing as fertile as that which we had been travelling +through for the whole day.</p> + +<p>March 28.</p> + +<p>The first part of our journey was through a fertile valley, +about four miles in length, through which wound a rapid stream. +It was clothed with the richest grass, abounded in kangaroos, and +was marked at its southern extremity by a very remarkable +precipitous hill. The heights to the westward were all composed +of basalt, whilst those to the eastward were sandstone. On +passing the ridge of hills which bounded this valley to the south +we entered on a sandstone district, although the hills to the +westward were still basaltic.</p> + +<p>NATURAL GRAPERY. GRAPE-LIKE FRUIT.</p> + +<p>I here halted the party for breakfast by the side of a stream +and, on casting my eyes upwards, I found that I was in a sort of +natural grapery, for the tree under which I lay was covered with +a plant which bears a sort of grape and I believe is a species of +cissus.</p> + +<p>We met altogether with three varieties of this plant, all of +which were creepers but differing from each other in their habits +and in the size of their fruit. Two of them generally ran along +the ground or amongst low shrubs and the third climbed high +trees; this latter kind bore the finest fruit, and it was a plant +of this description which I today found. Its fruit in size, +appearance, and flavour resembled a small black grape, but the +stones were different, being larger, and shaped like a coffee +berry. All three produced their fruit in bunches, like the vine, +and, the day being very sultry, I do not know that we could have +fallen upon anything more acceptable than this fruit was to +us.</p> + +<p>FORD THE GLENELG. ANOTHER RIVER.</p> + +<p>After breakfast we continued our route through a barren, sandy +district, heavily timbered; and in the course of the afternoon +met either the Glenelg or a very considerable branch of that +stream in south latitude 15 degrees 56 minutes, east longitude +125 degrees 8 minutes: it was 250 yards across and formed a +series of rapids at this point, where it emerged from a rocky +gorge. Just above the rapids we found a good ford, the average +depth of which was not more than three feet. After crossing, the +banks on the other side were clothed with a species of Casuarina +which I did not observe elsewhere. The country on that side of +the stream was sandy and, as I found by the time we had proceeded +two or three miles that we were getting embarrassed in a +sandstone range, I halted the party for the night and went on to +try if I could find a pass across it. My exertions were not +however very successful: I came upon a path which I thought might +be rendered practicable for the ponies over the first part of the +range, but found no line by which we could proceed without making +a road.</p> + +<p>WEAKNESS OF THE MEN.</p> + +<p>March 29.</p> + +<p>At dawn this morning the men were at work forming the road; +the poor fellows were however so much enfeebled from constant +fatigue and very inefficient nutriment, whilst exposed to the +great heat of a tropical climate, that they were unable to exert +the same energy as formerly, and I could not but be struck with +the great difference in their strength as evinced in their +incapacity to move stones and other obstacles, which a few weeks +ago they would have had little difficulty in lifting. The path +was however soon made as passable as our abilities permitted, and +we started along it with the ponies; some of them were however no +less reduced than the men and, in endeavouring to lead one of +them up a rocky hill, it fell, and from weakness sank under its +light load without making an effort to save itself; the spine was +thus so severely injured as to render it unable to move the +hinder extremities; we therefore killed the poor creature and +moved on.</p> + +<p>SANDSTONE CAVE.</p> + +<p>Throughout the day we continued gradually the ascent of the +range which we had yesterday commenced. The large valley we were +in led us by a gentle slope winding higher and higher amongst the +rocky hills; at first it had been so wide as to appear like a +plain, but by degrees it contracted its dimensions, until, +towards the afternoon, it suddenly assumed almost the character +of a gorge. Just at this point we saw in the cliffs on our left +hand a cave, which I entered in the hope of finding native +paintings.</p> + +<p>Nor was I disappointed for it contained several of a very +curious character. This cave was a natural chasm in the sandstone +rocks, elevated at its entrance several feet above the level of +the ground, from which the ascent to it was by a natural flight +of sandstone steps, irregular, of course, but formed of +successive thin strata, resting one upon another, and thus +constituting an easy ascent; these successive layers continued +into the body of the cave, quite to the end, where was a central +slab, more elevated than the others, and on each side of this two +other larger ones which reached the top of the cave and partly +served to support the immense sandstone slab that formed the +roof.</p> + +<p>ANOTHER PAINTED CAVE.</p> + +<p>The cave was twenty feet deep and at the entrance seven feet +high and about forty feet wide. As before stated the floor +gradually approached the roof in the direction of the bottom of +the cavern, and its width also contracted, so that at the +extremity it was not broader than the slab of rock, which formed +a natural seat.</p> + +<p>FIGURE DRAWN ON THE ROOF.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="grey1-21"></a><img alt="" src="images/grey1-21.jpg"></p> + +<p><b>17. Figure drawn on roof of Cave, discovered March +29th.</b></p> +</center> + +<p>The principal painting in it was the figure of a man, ten feet +six inches in length, clothed from the chin downwards in a red +garment which reached to the wrists and ankles; beyond this red +dress the feet and hands protruded and were badly executed.</p> + +<p>The face and head of the figure were enveloped in a succession +of circular bandages or rollers, or what appeared to be painted +to represent such. These were coloured red, yellow, and white; +and the eyes were the only features represented on the face. Upon +the highest bandage or roller a series of lines were painted in +red, but, although so regularly done as to indicate that they +have some meaning, it was impossible to tell whether they were +intended to depict written characters or some ornament for the +head. This figure was so drawn on the roof that its feet were +just in front of the natural seat, whilst its head and face +looked directly down on anyone who stood in the entrance of the +cave, but it was totally invisible from the outside. The painting +was more injured by the damp and atmosphere, and had the +appearance of being much more defaced and ancient, than any of +the others which we had seen.*</p> + +<blockquote>(*Footnote. This figure brings to mind the +description of the Prophet Ezekiel: Men portrayed upon the wall, +the images of the Chaldeans portrayed in vermilion, girded with +girdles upon their loins, exceeding in dyed attire upon their +heads, all of them princes to look to, after the manner of the +Babylonians of Chaldea, the land of their nativity. Chapter +23:14, 15.)</blockquote> + +<p>OTHER PAINTINGS.</p> + +<p>There were two other paintings, one on each of the rocks which +stood on either side of the natural seat; they were carefully +executed and yet had no apparent design in them; unless they were +intended to represent some fabulous species of turtle; for the +natives of Australia are generally fond of narrating tales of +fabulous and extraordinary animals such as gigantic snakes, +etc.</p> + +<p>One of the party who appeared much amused at these different +paintings walked straight up the cavern, gradually ascending the +steps until he reached the slab at the end, and then, taking his +hat off with a solemn air, seated himself; to his own, and our +surprise, his bare head just touched the roof of the cave, and on +examining this part of it we found it fairly polished, and very +greasy, from all appearance caused by the constant rubbing +against it of the head of a person whilst seated on the rock. +This and other circumstances led us to conjecture that the cave +was frequented by some wise man or native doctor who was resorted +to by the inhabitants in cases of disease or witchcraft. We saw +many footmarks about, and found other signs of the close presence +of the natives, but they themselves remained invisible.</p> + +<p>BEAUTIFUL SCENERY.</p> + +<p>The cave was situated in an exceedingly picturesque position, +it occupied the corner leading from a wide valley to a narrow +ravine, down which came bubbling along a clear deep stream, which +passed within a few yards of the cave's mouth. After making +sketches of the paintings and for a few minutes admiring this +romantic spot we moved up the ravine, which appeared to lead by a +gradual ascent to the summit of the mountain range that now +completely hemmed us in both to the southward and eastward.</p> + +<p>This ravine, in the luxuriance of its vegetation and the great +size of the trees, as well as in its rapid stream, at times +leaping in cascades or foaming in rapids, resembled those we had +before seen in the sandstone ranges, but it differed from them in +the greater height of the surrounding hills and cliffs which, +being overshadowed with hanging trees and climbing plants, +presented as rich a painting as the eye could behold: and, as +these grew golden with the rays of the setting sun or were thrown +into deep and massive shadows, I could not but regret that no +Claude of the tropics had arisen to transfer to canvas scenes +which words cannot express.</p> + +<p>But however beautiful the scenery was the road we had to +travel was so extremely inconvenient that the view scarcely made +amends for it; we were continually compelled from old land-slips +to cross from one side of the stream to the other, and this, from +the depth of the ford and the slipperiness of the rocky bottom, +was sometimes no easy task; moreover the ravine continued rapidly +to contract in width and to become more rugged and precipitous; I +therefore turned off to the right into a rocky amphitheatre which +seemed well suited for encamping, and halted the party for the +night; then, taking one of my men with me, I ascended the cliffs +to see if I could make out any line by which to get clear of the +precipices which embarrassed us, but on all sides I could descry +nothing but lofty hills and frowning crags, except in the +direction of the ravine which appeared to run directly into the +heart of the mountain chain; I therefore turned about to rejoin +the party, with the intention of continuing the same course the +ensuing morning as we had done this evening.</p> + +<p>NARROW ESCAPE.</p> + +<p>Both myself and the man who was with me had however a narrow +escape of being shot, for, as we were returning he let his rifle +fall and it exploded, the ball striking the rocks close to us +before it glanced into the air.</p> + +<p>OTHER CAVES.</p> + +<p>March 30.</p> + +<p>At the earliest dawn we continued our course up the valley, +which rapidly became narrower and more inclined so that it +formed, as it were, a series of elevated terraces, at the edge of +each of which was a little cascade. We found two caves in the +cliffs on the right hand, both of which were painted all over but +with no regularity of pattern: the only colours used were red, +yellow, and white. The largest of the caves exceeded in breadth +and depth any others I had seen, but it was only three feet high; +in this one there were several drawings of fish, one of which was +four feet in length; these I copied, although they were badly +executed. The caves themselves cannot be considered as at all +analogous to those I have before described.</p> + +<p>INCREASING DIFFICULTIES OF ROUTE. IMPASSABLE SANDSTONE +RANGES.</p> + +<p>The difficulties of the road continued to increase rapidly, +and the dimensions of the ravine became so contracted that I +hesitated whether I should not turn up another which branched off +to the right; previously however to taking this step I sent a man +forward to examine the one we were in; he soon returned and +reported that it terminated in a high cascade a few hundred yards +further on. This intelligence confirming my previous opinion, I +now moved up the ravine which came from the westward, but we had +not proceeded for more than half a mile when the rugged nature of +the country brought us to a complete stand; we found ourselves in +a rocky area, bounded on all sides by cliffs, the only outlet +from which was the path by which we had entered. I therefore +halted the party for breakfast whilst I prepared to ascend some +lofty pinnacles which lay to the south of us.</p> + +<p>The state of my wound rendered this exertion one of great pain +and difficulty; I however accomplished it, and found myself on +the top of a high rocky eminence which bore the appearance of +having fallen into ruins; the prospect from it was cheerless in +the extreme; to the north lay the rich valley country far below +us, and to the south and east nothing could be seen but barren +sandstone rocks and ranges rising one above the other until they +met the horizon at no great distance from the eye; the only +outlet, except the ravine by which we had approached, appeared to +be by the westward, and I descended to the party in this +direction to see if I could find a route from where they were to +the terrace leading to that point. I struck on a place up the +cliffs where I imagined it possible to construct a road by which +the ponies could ascend, and then returned to breakfast.</p> + +<p>COUNTRY INACCESSIBLE FOR HORSES.</p> + +<p>As soon as our scanty meal had been concluded all hands were +employed in making this road; and sincerely did I pity the feeble +men, whom I saw in the burning heat of a tropical sun, which was +reflected with redoubled intensity from the bare sandstone rocks, +toiling to displace large stones and obstacles which they had +hardly sufficient strength to move; not a murmur however escaped +them; they saw the necessity of the case and exerted their +failing energies as readily as they had done when these were in +full strength and vigour. The road was at last made and we moved +on to the westward, toiling for the remainder of the day amongst +steep precipices of barren sandstone rocks and hills, utterly +inaccessible to horses, till, finding our efforts to proceed +useless, I at last turned the party about and halted them for the +night just above where we had breakfasted; intending with the +earliest dawn to renew my search for a pass by which we might +cross this mountain range.</p> + +<p><a name="chapter10"></a></p> + +<h2>CHAPTER 10. RETURN TO HANOVER BAY.</h2> + +<p>UNSUCCESSFUL SEARCH FOR A PASS.</p> + +<p>March 31.</p> + +<p>This day at dawn I sent out a party under Mr. Lushington and +Mr. Walker to try if any pass through the mountains could be +found, but they returned in four or five hours to report that it +was utterly impossible for horses to proceed further in the +direction we desired. During their absence I had made a careful +examination of the stores and found that, even at our reduced +allowance, we had only provisions left for twenty days; our +horses were also reduced in number to twelve, but these, +excepting that their feet were sore, were rather improved in +condition than otherwise since the commencement of the +journey.</p> + +<p>CAUSES FOR RETURNING.</p> + +<p>My intention had always been, when I found myself reduced to +such an extremity as the present, to proceed for a few days by +forced marches towards the interior, accompanied by four men, and +then, returning to the remainder of the party, to have taken all +together back to the vessel; when there I knew I could have got +four volunteers to accompany me and, having loaded the horses +with ammunition and provisions, I had it in contemplation to have +started with them again for Swan River. But these projects became +now impracticable from the declining state of my health, +consequent on having started too soon after having received my +wound, to the exertions I was obliged daily to make whilst +labouring under its effects, and to the want of those comforts +which contribute so materially to restore an invalid to health. +Our allowance of food too had been but scanty, and, whilst I +fared as my men, who, unshattered in health, had yet grown thin +and weak under privation, I, in proportion, had suffered far +more.</p> + +<p>PREPARATIONS TO RETURN.</p> + +<p>Mr. Walker, who was aware of my design, came to me today and +said he felt it his duty to recommend me without delay to return +to the vessel; that as long as he thought the risk I ran was no +more than he considered a man who had undertaken such a service +should be prepared to incur, he had refrained from pressing this +advice upon me, but in my present debilitated state exposure even +for a single night might very probably cost me my life. To this +opinion I felt constrained to yield, and Mr. Walker, having at my +desire repeated it in a letter this afternoon, I arranged my +plans accordingly.</p> + +<p>LIGHT EXPLORING PARTY SENT FORWARD UNDER LIEUTENANT +LUSHINGTON.</p> + +<p>The march in advance, which, had my health permitted, I had +intended to make myself, was now deputed to Mr. Lushington: four +of those men who remained the strongest of our enfeebled band +were selected for an excursion of three days under him; after +which we were to return to the vessel.</p> + +<p>April 1 and 2.</p> + +<p>At dawn on Sunday the 1st the party started; and these two +days I occupied myself in making magnetic and astronomical +observations. Our latitude I found by two meridian altitudes of +the moon to be 16 degrees 0 minutes 45 seconds south, and our +longitude by chronometer 125 degrees 11 minutes east.</p> + +<p>REPORT OF ADVANCED PARTY.</p> + +<p>April 3.</p> + +<p>Mr. Lushington's party came in at 12 o'clock this day, +reporting as follows: That they proceeded about eighteen miles +from the camp upon a course of 195 degrees from the north, and +the remaining half upon a course of 155 1/2 degrees; that the +whole of their route lay over a country utterly impassable for +horses owing to the steepness of the hills; that they crossed a +great number of under-features at right angles to their route, +between which lay small streams flowing away to the westward, and +which under-features were so steep in their descent to the +southward that, in going down, the men repeatedly fell: both +grass and water were however everywhere abundant; and they saw, +in the spots where the grass was most luxuriant, the root which I +found on the hill at our first encampment on the good land. The +last point they attained was a lofty hill which ran out from a +range to the eastward, from which range sprang also all the +under-features that they had crossed. From this hill they had an +extensive view to the northward, eastward, and westward. The land +they saw to the northward is laid down upon my map.</p> + +<p>THEIR DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY.</p> + +<p>To the eastward they saw nothing but ranges of hills, +precisely resembling those that we had crossed since entering +this mountainous district; and to the westward others of the same +nature, but gradually falling in that direction, whilst on the +other hand the land seemed to rise gently to the eastward, though +they saw no very high hills in an easterly direction. To the +southward their view was impeded by a very high bluff point, +distant six or seven miles, and a line of cliffs under which they +conceived that a river or an opening of the sea may run, but if +so, it could not be a stream of great magnitude. Their view of +the base of the cliff was however impeded by the under-features +of the hill on which they stood. They also noticed, as a very +remarkable circumstance, that there were no signs of these +mountains having been visited by the natives. The first part of +their route lay over an extensive plain, four miles in width, +which bore no appearance of the great native conflagrations +having ever reached it. This was so generally the case that, when +they halted, they were unable to obtain a sufficiency of +firewood. They saw a native dog of the regular Australian breed; +kangaroos were abundant, but these as well as all other game were +much less wild than any of the party had before observed.</p> + +<p>The foregoing summary of the information brought back rests +not on the report of any one individual but expresses the +opinions of the party with regard to those points on which they +were all agreed; and the only one as to which I have any distrust +is that of the distance they went, which I believe to be +overrated; having always found the estimates of every one of the +party as to the daily distance travelled very erroneous, and +sometimes more than doubled. This indeed is a mistake well known +to be of common occurrence, and very difficult to guard against +in a new and wild country, and when I consider the diminished +strength of the men's pedestrian powers, and the weights they had +to carry, I am disposed to calculate that the total direct +distance they made did not exceed, if it equalled, twelve +miles.</p> + +<p>WANT OF FIREWOOD.</p> + +<p>Their report of want of firewood is singular as, in all other +parts which we passed over, even upon plains of a similar +character though not so highly elevated or so difficult of +access, we had always found the ground thickly covered with trees +which had fallen from the effects of the native fires.</p> + +<p>The only remarkable circumstances about the spot we were +encamped in were the great coldness of the nights and mornings; +and moreover that exactly at nine o'clock every morning a cold +breeze, in character precisely resembling a sea-breeze, set in +from the south-east and lasted until about half-past three in the +afternoon.</p> + +<p>RETURN. COMMENCEMENT OF MARCH BACK.</p> + +<p>April 4.</p> + +<p>We this day started on our march homewards. I was afraid, from +the appearance of the weather, that we might soon have rain, and, +as a continuance of it for even three or four days might have +prevented our passing the rivers for several weeks, it became +necessary that this part of our march should be accomplished with +the utmost celerity. I therefore made the first river before I +allowed a halt for breakfast. On our route we passed the spot +where, on the 29th ultimo, we had been compelled to kill the +horse; the native dogs had already made it a perfect skeleton and +scattered its bones about.</p> + +<p>NATIVE AND HIS DOG.</p> + +<p>I committed unintentionally this day what must have appeared +to the natives a very wanton act of aggression: as we were +passing the river, a dog, not of the Australian breed, came from +a pass in the rocks on the opposite side, moving quietly towards +us over some flat rocks; when he had advanced a few yards from +the pass he stopped and looked back, so that from his manner I +might have known that his master was near, but without reflection +I fired and struck the ground close to him; he became alarmed and +ran back in the same line he had come; I now took up my own rifle +and just as he turned a point in the rocks I fired, and, although +a very long shot, I struck him far forward in the shoulder. For a +moment he staggered, then turned round and limped up a glen in +the hills in quite a different direction. I had neither time nor +strength to follow him, but on passing the river I found from the +tracks that minute made that a single native had been coming down +to the river with the dog, and had (probably from hearing the +shots) turned sharp off to the right and made his escape into +some bushes. This day the weakness of our last sheep obliged us +to kill it.</p> + +<p>CONTINUATION OF ROUTE BACK. CHANGE OF TRACK.</p> + +<p>April 5.</p> + +<p>I continued on our old track this morning until I had passed +the other river, and then, quitting our former route, made a push +straight over the sandstone ridge for our old enemy the marsh, as +I felt sure after the present long continuance of fine weather +that it would be now quite passable. We encamped this night on +the sandstone range under a group of lofty firs, or rather +pines.</p> + +<p>April 6.</p> + +<p>I found a very easy route over the sandstone, quite passable +in fine weather, but after rains, I think, from the marshy nature +of the ground, that it would present some difficulty. The marsh +itself was perfectly passable, could without any difficulty be +drained, and consisted of good and fertile land. A remarkable +circumstance connected with it was the great depth of the beds of +its streams, the banks in some places being fourteen feet above +the existing water level, whilst I could observe no signs of the +water having ever risen to that height. In the afternoon I once +more struck our old track, which I quitted again in the evening. +We halted a few hundred yards from two remarkable heaps of stones +of the same kind as those I have before mentioned.</p> + +<p>CURIOUS NATIVE MOUNDS OR TOMBS OF STONES.</p> + +<p>April 7.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="grey1-22"></a><img alt="" src="images/grey1-22.jpg"></p> + +<p><b>18. Supposed Native Tombs. Discovered on the North-Western +Coast of New Holland, 7 April 1838. Published by T. & W. +Boone, London.</b></p> +</center> + +<p>This morning I started off before dawn and opened the most +southern of the two mounds of stones which presented the +following curious facts:</p> + +<p>1. They were both placed due east and west and, as will be +seen by the annexed plates, with great regularity.</p> + +<p>2. They were both exactly of the same length but differed in +breadth and height.</p> + +<p>3. They were not formed altogether of small stones from the +rock on which they stood, but many were portions of very distant +rocks, which must have been brought by human labour, for their +angles were as sharp as the day they were broken off; there were +also the remains of many and different kinds of seashells in the +heap we opened.</p> + +<p>My own opinion concerning these heaps of stones had been that +they were tombs; and this opinion remains unaltered, though we +found no bones in the mound, only a great deal of fine mould +having a damp dank smell. The antiquity of the central part of +the one we opened appeared to be very great, I should say two or +three hundred years; but the stones above were much more modern, +the outer ones having been very recently placed; this was also +the case with the other heap: can this be regarded by the natives +as a holy spot?</p> + +<p>We explored the heap by making an opening in the side, working +on to the centre, and thence downwards to the middle, filling up +the former opening as the men went on; yet five men provided with +tools were occupied two hours in completing this opening and +closing it again, for I left everything precisely as I had found +it. The stones were of all sizes, from one as weighty as a strong +man could lift, to the smallest pebble. The base of each heap was +covered with a rank vegetation, but the top was clear, from the +stones there having been recently deposited.</p> + +<p>PASS IN MOUNTAIN RANGE.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon we proceeded on our route, travelling nearly +north. After marching some distance we traversed at right angles +a variety of under-features terminating in sandstone cliffs, but +the hills on our right were composed of the same black rock as +the chain in which Mount Lyell lies. Private Mustard being ill, I +gave him my horse and tried to walk, but injured myself +materially by so doing. We were obliged to encamp at the head of +a large mangrove inlet.</p> + +<p>April 8.</p> + +<p>It being Sunday I halted all the morning and only started late +in the afternoon. Our route lay through a mountainous country and +consequently our progress was slow. Quartz was here largely +developed in rocks. We halted this evening in a valley surrounded +by mountains.</p> + +<p>PASS MOUNT LYELL.</p> + +<p>April 9.</p> + +<p>We started at dawn and soon found that the valley we had +encamped in was the true pass across the range of mountains. It +ran in nearly a south-west direction to the foot of Mount Lyell. +Here I halted for breakfast; and, on finding my position by cross +bearings, which I was now able to do, and comparing it with my +position by dead reckoning, was glad to find that the error only +amounted to 150 yards. The valley we travelled up in the morning +was fertile, connected with several other large ones of similar +character, and contained two small lakes, or large ponds of +water, the least of which was elevated considerably above the low +ground in the neighbourhood. In the afternoon we crossed the +mountains by a narrow neck, which is the best pass over this +range of hills for anyone travelling to the south and east. We +crossed our old track twice in the afternoon and encamped in the +evening under a conical hill.</p> + +<p>April 10.</p> + +<p>Started at dawn, travelling nearly north-west, and crossed the +heads of all the streams which I had before seen emptying +themselves into the river Glenelg in the opening lying between +Mount Sturt and Mount Eyre. Just under the point where we +encamped for the night was a large marsh in which my horse got +bogged and I had a severe fall.</p> + +<p>CONTINUATION OF ROUTE.</p> + +<p>April 11.</p> + +<p>On starting this morning all the party insisted that they saw +a hill, under which our old track had passed. I felt convinced +that such could not be the case; and, had it been so, an error of +four miles must have existed in my map: yet all were so positive +of their correctness that I felt it would appear like obstinacy +in me not to yield to the general opinion. I therefore quitted +our direct course to make for the foot of this hill, and there +convinced myself that I was right; yet, even when we had now +passed it, proceeding on our route, I heard several remark, "We +shall soon march back here again." But this evening I had the +pleasure of halting under the sandstone range, and the very hill +we had wished to gain.</p> + +<p>RECOVERY OF BURIED STORES.</p> + +<p>April 12.</p> + +<p>We marched early, and on the way passed more native tombs; +when we came to the place where the horse had been left I found +that, through inadvertence on the part of the man who led him, he +had been starved to death, having been left tethered. This +discovery shocked me much. Some of the stores which had been left +where he fell and covered with a tarpaulinremained uninjured. We +proceeded onwards to the camp where I had lain so long wounded, +and, on arriving found all our provisions in good order, the +natives apparently not having since visited the spot. We were not +a little glad to find our preserved meats which had been left +buried here. Halted for the night, and enjoyed our repast.</p> + +<p>PRECAUTIONS ON REACHING HANOVER BAY.</p> + +<p>April 13.</p> + +<p>After digging up our supply of preserved meats yesterday we +had made rather more free with them than was prudent in men who +had been for so long a time compelled to subsist upon very scanty +fare, and in consequence had been nearly all affected with +violent sickness; and, as six of the party, including Mr. +Lushington and myself, were now ill, we did not start very early; +the remaining ponies were also so weak that they could scarcely +carry themselves, and we therefore were only able to place very +light loads upon them.</p> + +<p>I have already described the very difficult nature of the +country we had to traverse; but the roads we had previously +constructed through it proved extremely serviceable. So little +had they been injured that they formed a very fair and passable +line of communication. Early in the evening we crossed the +Lushington and halted at the summit of the cliffs which formed +its northern bank.</p> + +<p>April 14.</p> + +<p>I sent the most efficient of the party back with the horses +for the remaining stores whilst with four men I remained in +charge of the tents.</p> + +<p>ANXIETY ON APPROACHING HANOVER BAY.</p> + +<p>Sunday April 15.</p> + +<p>Our anxiety to ascertain if any accident had happened to the +schooner now became very great: since such a circumstance was of +course by no means impossible. As our position would then have +been very precarious, and our only chance of ultimate safety have +rested on the most exact discipline and cautious rules of conduct +being observed from the very first, I thought it would be most +prudent not to allow such a calamity (had it occurred) to burst +too suddenly upon the men when they were quite unprepared for +it.</p> + +<p>Two of them were therefore selected and, accompanied by these, +I started before daylight for the sandy beach in Hanover Bay; +leaving the party to make the best of their way to the heights +above the valley where we had first encamped, and where plenty of +food and water could be found for the ponies; these, in the event +of anything having happened to the schooner, would become the +mainstay of our hopes.</p> + +<p>These arrangements having been made we moved off through the +rocky difficult country we had first encountered: every step we +took was over well-known ground, in which no change had taken +place save that there were evident marks of bodies of natives +having been in the neighbourhood since our departure.</p> + +<p>As I proceeded nearly in a direct line to Hanover Bay we +encountered some difficulty from the broken character of the +ground, but about eleven o'clock had gained the hilly country at +the back of the beach, from whence however we could not obtain a +view of the spot where the vessel lay. On emerging from the +mangroves upon the beach we saw painted upon the sandstone +cliffs, in very large letters, "Beagle Observatory, letters +south-east 52 paces."</p> + +<p>REJOIN THE LYNHER. MEETING WITH THE BEAGLE.</p> + +<p>No one who has not been similarly situated can at all conceive +the thrill which went through me when these letters first met my +eye; even had anything happened to the schooner, friends were +upon the coast, and I knew that Captain Wickham, who had passed a +great portion of his life in adventures of this kind, would leave +nothing undone which was in his power to ensure our safety. We +now hurried across the beach, and on gaining the highest part of +it saw the little schooner riding safely at anchor. A gun being +fired all became life and expectation on board the vessel; and +whilst the boat pulled ashore we searched for our letters. These +had however not yet been deposited at the spot indicated, and I +therefore conjectured that we should find them on board.</p> + +<p>On reaching the vessel we learnt that the mate was gone to the +Beagle, now lying in Port George the Fourth but expected to sail +this very day. It appeared that at 7 o'clock on the morning of +the 8th the report of four carronades was heard on board the +schooner; this was conjectured by all to denote the presence of +the Beagle on the coast, but the echo ran from cliff to cliff +with so many reverberations that none could tell from what +direction the sound had originally proceeded. The silence of the +night was not again disturbed; and those on board the schooner +felt no small solicitude to know if their conjectures were +correct, and if so in what direction the Beagle lay.</p> + +<p>ARRIVAL OF THE BEAGLE.</p> + +<p>The next morning the mystery was cleared up. Before noon a +yawl was seen to round the headland and to stand across the bay +in the direction of the mouth of Prince Regent's River. As soon +as the schooner was recognised the yawl altered her course, and +Captain Wickham was soon on board the Lynher, making anxious +enquiries for us and ascertaining what steps could be taken to +assist us and promote our views.</p> + +<p>From that time up to the present date the Beagle had lain in +Port George the Fourth to take in wood, water, etc., and to await +the return of Mr. Stokes, who was absent exploring the coast +between Collier's Bay and Port George the Fourth.</p> + +<p>As there was no time to lose I at once started in a boat for +the Beagle, and it was late in the evening when we drew near it. +I could see anxious groups looking eagerly at the little boat as +it drew near, and when at length we were recognised the hearty +cheers that greeted us as we came up alongside plainly showed +that the pleasure of meeting was not confined to ourselves.</p> + +<p>RESULTS OF HER SURVEY.</p> + +<p>As Mr. Stokes was hourly expected to return, and I was very +anxious to know if he had discovered the mouth of the Glenelg, I +remained on board the Beagle and, as all had much to hear and +much to communicate, the evening wore rapidly away. The next day +Mr. Stokes arrived, having seen nothing of the mouth of the +river; this however in my apprehension arose from the greater +portion of the time they were absent having been spent in the +examination of Collier's Bay, which was the point of by far the +greatest interest and promise; and that consequently they were +compelled, from want of time and supplies, to examine the +intervening coastline less narrowly than its irregular character +rendered necessary. What rather confirms this opinion is, that +Captain King, in his survey of this part, states his belief, +drawn from observation, that it is indented with inlets similar +to Prince Regent's River, now this is exactly the character of +the Glenelg.</p> + +<p>Mr. Stokes described Camden Sound as being one of the finest +harbours he had seen; and, such being the case, it must +undoubtedly be the most important position on this part of the +coast. It lies close to the Glenelg and Prince Regent's River, +two large navigable streams; and I have already declared my +opinion that I have never seen a richer tract of country than the +extensive alluvial and basaltic districts in the neighbourhood of +the Glenelg, and under the rare circumstance of lying between two +navigable rivers which are separated from each other by so short +an interval.</p> + +<p>PREPARATIONS FOR REEMBARKING.</p> + +<p>Soon after Mr. Stokes's arrival I started for the Lynher, and +the next morning repaired on shore. During my absence on board +the Beagle fourteen natives had made their appearance near the +encampment on the cliffs above the valley; they appeared however +to have been solely attracted from motives of curiosity and a +desire to visit our former huts. From the fearful disposition +which had hitherto been evinced by the natives of these parts it +was necessary however that every precaution should be observed. +This was most carefully done by Mr. Lushington; and as soon as +the natives saw that they were watched they moved off and were +not again observed, although the smokes of their fires were +visible in several points.</p> + +<p>On the 17th we commenced our preparations for leaving this +part of the coast. The stores remaining were all carried on +board. We had but eleven ponies left, the greater number of which +were so marked and scarred from falls amongst the rocks that they +would have been valueless if brought to sale; besides which, to +have cut and dried a quantity of grass sufficient for them until +we reached the Isle of France would, in the burnt up state of the +country, have delayed us many days, had we even succeeded at +last. On the other hand, if left free in the bush, two good mares +which were amongst them might possibly be the means of giving a +very valuable race of horses to this country. These +considerations determined me; and the companions of our weary +wanderings were turned loose--a new race upon the land; and, as +we trusted, to become the progenitors of a numerous herd.</p> + +<p>STATE OF THE PLANTS AND SEEDS LEFT AT THE ENCAMPMENT.</p> + +<p>Our whole residence in this country had been marked by toils +and sufferings. Heat, wounds, hunger, thirst, and many other +things had combined to harass us. Under these circumstances it +might have been imagined that we left these shores without a +single regret; but such was far from being the case: when the +ponies had wandered off, when all the remaining stores had been +removed, and the only marks of our residence in this valley were +a few shattered bark huts, young coconut plants, a bread-fruit, +and some other useful trees and plants, I felt very loth to leave +the spot. I considered what a blessing to the country these +plants must eventually prove if they should continue to thrive as +they had yet done and, as I called to mind how much forethought +and care their transport to their present position had +occasioned, I would very gladly have passed a year or two of my +life in watching over them and seeing them attain to a useful +maturity. One large pumpkin plant in particular claimed my +notice. The tropical warmth and rains, and the virgin soil in +which it grew, had imparted to it a rich luxuriance: it did not +creep along the ground, but its long shoots were spreading +upwards amongst the trees. The young coconuts grew humbly amidst +the wild plants and reeds, their worth unknown. Most of these +plants I had placed in the ground myself, and had watched their +early progress: now they must be left to their fate.</p> + +<p>REEMBARKATION.</p> + +<p>Amidst such thoughts we resumed our course down the valley and +embarked in the boats; but had not proceeded far when a dog +belonging to one of the men was missed and, as we could not +abandon so faithful a companion, a party returned to search for +it, and the dog was brought safely on board.</p> + +<p>SAIL FOR THE MAURITIUS.</p> + +<p>We then weighed and sailed for the Isle of France, where we +arrived on the 17th May without having met with any circumstance +on our voyage worthy of record.</p> + +<p><a name="chapter11"></a></p> + +<h2>CHAPTER 11. NATURAL HISTORY. CLIMATE. ABORIGINES.</h2> + +<p>NATURAL HISTORY.</p> + +<p>North-Western Australia seems to be peculiarly prolific in +birds, reptiles, and insects, who dwell here nearly unmolested, +mutually preying upon each other, and thus, by a wise provision, +setting the necessary check to their own multiplication.</p> + +<p>DISTRIBUTION OF ANIMALS.</p> + +<p>Of quadrupeds there are but few species, and of these the +individuals, considered in proportion to the surface they roam +over, are rare. The only species I observed during a residence of +five months were four of kangaroos, namely the large Macropus +giganteus ? of Shaw, two smaller kinds, one of which is the +Petrogale brachyotis of Gould, and a kangaroo rat, which last is +always seen amongst the rocks on the sea coast. One species of +opossum, a flying squirrel (Petaurista) two kinds of dog, of +which one is new, rats, and a fieldmouse. Of these the kangaroos +are alone numerous, and only in particular spots.</p> + +<p>NEW KANGAROO.</p> + +<p>I shot a female kangaroo of the Petrogale brachyotis near +Hanover Bay, and by the preservation of the skin and other parts +enabled Mr. Gould to identify it as a new species.</p> + +<p>This graceful little animal is excessively wild and shy in its +habits, frequenting, in the daytime, the highest and most +inaccessible rocks, and only descending into the valleys to feed +early in the morning and late in the evening. When disturbed in +the daytime amongst the roughest and most precipitous rocks, it +bounds along from one to the other with the greatest apparent +facility, and is so watchful and wary in its habits that it is by +no means easy to get a shot at it. One very surprising thing is, +how it can support the temperature to which it is exposed in the +situations it always frequents amongst the burning sandstone +rocks, the mercury there during the heat of the day being +frequently at 136 degrees. I have never seen these animals in the +plains or lowlands, and believe that they frequent mountains +alone.</p> + +<p>NEW DOMESTIC DOG.</p> + +<p>The new species of dog differs totally from the Dingo or Canis +australiensis. I never saw one nearer than from twenty to thirty +yards, and was unable to procure a specimen. Its colour is the +same as that of the Australian dog, in parts however having a +blackish tinge. The muzzle is narrow, long, thin, and tapers +much, resembling that of a greyhound, whilst in general form it +approaches the English lurcher. Some of the party who went to +Timor stated it to resemble precisely the Malay dog common to +that island, and considered it to be of the same breed; which I +think not improbable, as I cannot state that I ever saw one wild, +or unless in the vicinity of natives; in company with whom they +were generally observed in a domesticated state. On the other +hand the Canis australiensis was common in some parts in a state +of nature: of these I saw several myself and, from the +descriptions given by other individuals of the party of dogs they +had observed, I recognised their identity with the same species. +We heard them also repeatedly howling during the night and, +although they never attacked our sheep or goats, many portions of +dead animals were carried off by them. I saw but two flying +squirrels and know not to which species of Petaurista they are to +be referred.</p> + +<p>OTHER ANIMALS.</p> + +<p>Both mice and rats are common, the former precisely resembling +in appearance the English fieldmouse. The rats on one occasion +ate up a live pet parakeet, leaving the bones gnawed and strewed +about; and on another, when I had shot a crane (Ardea scolopacea) +intending it for breakfast, they in the night devoured nearly the +whole of it.</p> + +<p>CHECKS ON INCREASE OF ANIMALS.</p> + +<p>The multiplication of kangaroos, opossums, rats, etc. may be +checked by various causes; but man, I imagine, is the most deadly +enemy they have to contend with. The numerous remains of these +animals that I have seen about the native fires attest the number +destroyed. In all those caves in which I found native paintings +were representations either of kangaroo hunts, or of men bringing +down these animals dead on their shoulders; and many a hollow +tree bore witness of its having been smoked in order to drive +forth to certain death the trembling opossum or bandicoot rat +which had taken refuge in it.</p> + +<p>INFLUENCE OF MAN ON THEIR HABITS.</p> + +<p>A convincing proof of the dread in which man is held by the +various kinds of kangaroos is given by their extreme shyness. I +never but on two or three occasions got within shot of the larger +kangaroos as they were always so wary; and, although I at +different times wounded two, I never could succeed in actually +capturing either. Now, when the detached party sent forward just +before we commenced our return to Hanover Bay crossed a range of +mountains on which were neither traces of the natives or their +fires, they found the direct reverse of this to be the case, and +were all surprised at the tameness of the kangaroos compared with +those they had previously seen.</p> + +<p>In the same way, when I entered a new district, the birds +merely flew up into a lofty tree without attempting to go farther +away, and it was not until I had shot for a day or two in the +neighbourhood of a place that the birds there became at all +wild.</p> + +<p>The native dog, doubtless being dependent for subsistence upon +the game he can procure, must contribute to thin the numbers of +the lesser animals, who also, together perhaps with the rapacious +dog himself, frequently fall a prey to the various snakes that +inhabit the country; as was evinced in the event narrated on the +16th of March of the destruction, by Mr. Lushington, of the boa +with a small kangaroo compressed in its folds.</p> + +<p>The manner, too, in which I have seen the rapacious birds of +prey soar over plains where the small kangaroos abound, convinces +me that they also bear their part in the destruction of this +harmless race.</p> + +<p>TRACES OF AN ANIMAL WITH A DIVIDED HOOF.</p> + +<p>I have already alluded to the paucity of quadrupeds, both in +species and in number, but I have still to record the remarkable +fact of the existence in these parts of a large quadruped with a +divided hoof: this animal I have never seen, but twice came upon +its traces. On one occasion I followed its track for above a mile +and a half, and at last altogether lost it in rocky ground. The +footmarks exceeded in size those of a buffalo, and it was +apparently much larger, for, where it had passed through +brushwood, shrubs of considerable size in its way had been broken +down and, from the openings there left, I could form some +comparative estimate of its bulk. These tracks were first seen by +a man of the name of Mustard, who had joined me at the Cape, and +who had there been on the frontier during the Kaffir war; he told +me that he had seen the spoor of a buffalo, imagining that they +were here as plentiful as in Africa. I conceived at the time that +he had made some mistake, and paid no attention to him until I +afterwards twice saw the same traces myself.</p> + +<p>BIRDS.</p> + +<p>To describe the birds common to these parts requires more time +than to detail the names of the few quadrupeds to be found; +indeed in no other country that I have yet visited do birds so +abound. Even the virgin forests of South America cannot, in my +belief, boast of such numerous feathered denizens; yet I cannot, +after all, assert that the number of genera and species is at all +proportionate to that of individual birds. The contrary is +probably the real case.</p> + +<p>BEAUTY OF THE BIRDS.</p> + +<p>The birds of this country possess in many instances an +excessively beautiful plumage; and he alone who has traversed +these wild and romantic regions, who has beheld a flock of +many-coloured parakeets sweeping like a moving rainbow through +the air whilst the rocks and dells resounded with their playful +cries, can form any adequate idea of the scenes that there burst +on the eyes of the wondering naturalist.</p> + +<p>The beginning of the month of February, or the end of January, +is the season in which the birds in these parts pair. In the +beginning of March I found many nests with eggs in them; and in +the end of that month eggs nearly hatched were observed in most +of the nests, as well as young birds occasionally.</p> + +<p>RAPACIOUS BIRDS.</p> + +<p>Of rapacious birds I saw but four kinds, but these are by no +means common:</p> + +<p>The first species was a very large bird, of a dark colour +(Aquila fucosa, Cuvier) in size, appearance, and flight closely +resembling the golden eagle which I have often seen, and have +once shot on the north-west coast of Ireland. I have approached +these birds closely--so closely indeed that I have on two +occasions shot them, but each time they fell into a thick +mangrove inlet and I was not fortunate enough to procure either +of them; they appeared to me always to frequent the shores, for I +never saw them further inland than a mile from the sea. The large +nests Captain King mentions as having been found upon the coast I +imagine must have belonged to this species.</p> + +<p>The second species was a sort of hawk (Haliaeetus +leucosternus, Gould) rather larger than the sparrow-hawk, of a +light cinnamon colour, with a perfectly white head. They also +frequent the shores, but I never shot one.</p> + +<p>The third species was a Peregrine falcon (Falco melanogenys, +Gould) which is nearly allied to that of Europe. I was not +fortunate enough to procure a specimen of this bird.</p> + +<p>The fourth was the Athene Boobook. Belly brown and white; +wings brown, with white spots; third quill-feather, longest; legs +feathered, lightish brown colour; tail brownish white, marked +with transverse bars of a darker brown; eye prominent; iris blue. +The only difference I could observe between the male and female +is that the female is rather larger than the male, and her +colours somewhat lighter. These birds inhabit the whole of that +part of North-western Australia lying between the Prince Regent +and Glenelg Rivers, and probably may be distributed over the +greater portion of the Continent. They feed on insects, reptiles, +and birds of the smaller kind. I have always found them seated in +holes in the rocks, or in shady dells, and have never seen them +fly in the daytime unless compelled by fear; they are very stupid +when disturbed, and in flight and manner closely resemble the +common English owl. I cannot however recollect having ever seen +one on the wing during the night.</p> + +<p>Upon describing the two singular birds mentioned above in +Chapter 9 to Mr. Gould he informed me that they were most +probably of the rare species Anas semipalmata.</p> + +<p>REMARKABLE NEST.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="grey1-23"></a><img alt="" src="images/grey1-23.jpg"></p> + +<p><b>19. Nest or Bower of the Chalmydera nuchalis.</b></p> +</center> + +<p>I have already spoken in the 9th chapter of a very curious +sort of nest which was frequently found by myself and other +individuals of the party, not only along the seashore, but in +some instances at a distance of six or seven miles from it. This +nest, which is figured in Illustration 19, I once conceived must +have belonged to the kangaroo rat I have above mentioned, until +Mr. Gould, who has lately returned from Australia, informed me +that it is the run or playing ground of the bird he has named +Chalmydera nuchalis.</p> + +<p>These nests were formed of dead grass, and parts of bushes, +sunk a slight depth into two parallel furrows, in sandy soil, and +then nicely arched above. But the most remarkable fact connected +with them was that they were always full of broken shells, large +heaps of which protruded from each extremity of the nest. These +were invariably seashells. In one instance, in the nest most +remote from the sea that we discovered, one of the men of the +party found and brought to me the stone of some fruit which had +evidently been rolled in the sea; these stones he found lying in +a heap in the nest, and they are now in my possession.</p> + +<p>EMUS.</p> + +<p>I have seen no Emus in North-western Australia, but on two +occasions their tracks were impressed in the mud on some plains +lying on the banks of Glenelg River; and Mr. Dring, of H.M.S. +Beagle, informed me that, whilst that vessel was employed in the +survey of Fitzroy River, about seventy miles to the southward of +the former, he not only several times saw traces of them but +that, on one occasion when he was in the bush, two of them passed +within a few yards of him. They may, I conceive, therefore be +considered as inhabitants of this part of the continent.</p> + +<p>ALLIGATORS.</p> + +<p>No alligators were seen by the land party in any of the rivers +of North-western Australia, but the crew of the schooner saw one +in Hanover Bay. I can however safely assert from my own +experience that they are by no means numerous upon this coast. At +the islands of Timor and Roti however they abound.</p> + +<p>TURTLES.</p> + +<p>Turtles were abundant on the coast, and a freshwater tortoise +was found inland.</p> + +<p>PLANTS.</p> + +<p>Amongst the vegetable kingdom I shall only observe generally +that the Calamus, or rattan, which in King's voyage* is +considered to be peculiar to the primary granitic formation on +the east coast, is abundant in the interior of the north-west +between latitude 15 and 17 degrees south.</p> + +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Appendix, volume 2.)</blockquote> + +<p>I found a dwarf cabbage-palm between 15 and 16 degrees south +latitude, always in moist situations in the neighbourhood of +streams, although not immediately on the banks.</p> + +<p>Of the family of Urticeae many species of Ficus were +observed.</p> + +<p>The Banksia, common to Swan River, and bearing a yellow +flower, is to be found in many of the valleys on the north-west +coast; thus appearing to form an exception to Mr. Cunningham's +observation inserted in Captain King's voyage,* wherein he +says:</p> + +<p>Viewing the general distribution of Banksia, it is a singular +fact in the geographical distribution of this genus that its +species, which have been traced through almost every meridian of +the south coast, upon the islands in Bass Strait, in Van Diemen's +Land, and widely scattered throughout the whole extent of New +South Wales to the north coast, at which extreme Banksia dentata +has been observed as far west as longitude 136 degrees south, +should be wholly wanting on the line of the north-west coast.</p> + +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Ibid.)</blockquote> + +<p>I observed a great variety of plants of the order +Leguminosae.</p> + +<p>Of the extraordinary Capparis resembling the African Adansonia +I have already spoken in Chapter 6.</p> + +<p>A species of Callitris (Pine) was common, as was the Pandanus; +and the Araucaria excelsa was found on the heights, both near the +sea coast and further inland.</p> + +<p>CLIMATE. ITS HEALTHINESS.</p> + +<p>I conceive the climate of North-western Australia to be one of +the finest in the world, and my reasons for thus thinking are +grounded upon the following circumstances.</p> + +<p>PROOFS OF ITS SALUBRITY.</p> + +<p>I was resident there from the beginning of the month of +December 1837 to the middle of the month of April 1838; a period +of four months and a half: and during the whole of this time the +men under my command were exposed to great hardships and +privations. On one occasion three of us slept in the open air +without any covering or warm clothes for five successive nights, +during three of which we had constant showers of heavy rain, and +yet did not in any way suffer from this exposure.</p> + +<p>Other detached parties were on various occasions subjected for +a shorter period to exposure of a similar nature, and no instance +occurred of any individual suffering in the least from it. One or +two cases of slight diarrhoea occurred, but they could be always +traced to some food that had been eaten the day before, and never +were sufficiently violent to delay us for a single hour.</p> + +<p>Whilst this perfect freedom from disease existed amongst the +party they had not only to bear exposure of the nature above +stated, but the provisions with which I was enabled to supply +them were sometimes very insufficient for their wants. During the +whole month of March and part of April their daily full allowance +of food was about 1 3/4 pounds of flour, first made into dough +and then baked in the form of a flat cake upon a large stone.</p> + +<p>This low diet, at the same time that they were compelled to +work very hard, naturally rendered some of them extremely weak, +and several were, on our return to the coast, in a very reduced +state.</p> + +<p>I should here state that we were (perhaps fortunately) unable +to carry more than one pint of brandy with us, hence no spirits +were issued to the men, and the non-appearance of diseases of an +inflammatory nature may perhaps in some measure be attributed to +this circumstance.</p> + +<p>The opinion of Captain Wickham, R.N. commanding H.M. ship +Beagle, is perfectly in accordance with my own. He was upon the +coast at the same time that we were, and in a letter to me writes +thus: "Our cruise has been altogether a fortunate one, as we have +been enabled to examine the whole coast from Cape Villaret to +this place (Port George the Fourth) without any accident, and the +climate is so good that we have had no sick."</p> + +<p>THERMOMETRICAL OBSERVATIONS. RAIN AND TEMPERATURE.</p> + +<p>I have annexed a short statement of the weather and range of +the thermometer during some parts of the months of December, +January, and February. It will be seen from this that the heat +was on some occasions great, even as high as to 136 degrees of +Fahrenheit in the sun; yet, by not exposing ourselves to its +influence in the heat of the day more than we could help, we +suffered no inconvenience from this circumstance: indeed in other +tropical countries where the heat has not been so great I have +suffered much more than I did in North-western Australia.</p> + +<p>NUMBER OF DAYS IN WHICH RAIN FELL:</p> + +<p>December: 6 days.<br> +January: 19 days, namely, 12, to January 19th, 4 between 19th and +28th, 3 to end of month.<br> +February: 7 days.<br> +March: 12 days.<br> +To 12th April: 2 days.</p> + +<p>In January the greatest quantity of rain fell between the 15th +and 30th, accompanied by storms of thunder and lightning.</p> + +<p>In February the greatest quantity of rain fell in the +commencement of the month. For several nights in the middle of +February we had thunder, lightning, and strong gusts of wind, +seldom accompanied by rain.</p> + +<p>In March the greatest quantity of rain fell from the 17th to +the 23rd.</p> + +<p>The mean temperature of the different periods of the day for +the month of December 1838 at Hanover Bay, determined by +observations for only six successive days from the 26th to the +31st inclusive (thermometer in the shade) are as follows:</p> + +<p>6 A.M. 82.2.<br> +9 A.M. 85.3.<br> +12 m. 91.3.<br> +3 P.M. 90.2.<br> +6 P.M. 85.8.<br> +9 P.M. 83.5.</p> + +<p>The same for the month of January 1838, determined by +observations made from the 1st to the 19th inclusive, was:</p> + +<p>6 A.M. 78.2.<br> +9 A.M. 84.3.<br> +12 M. 83.1.<br> +3 P.M. 85.7.<br> +6 P.M. 80.7.<br> +9 P.M. 83.4.</p> + +<p>I should observe that the mean temperature for 9 P.M. for this +month is deduced from only seven days observation.</p> + +<p>The same as the above for the month of February, taken twelve +miles to the south of Hanover Bay, from the 19th to the 26th +February inclusive, is as follows:</p> + +<p>6 A.M. 77.0.<br> +9 A.M. 86.0.<br> +12 A.M. 92.7.<br> +3 P.M. 94.0.<br> +6 P.M. 83.3.</p> + +<p>ABORIGINES, THEIR HABITS AND MANNERS.</p> + +<p>I was never fortunate enough to succeed in obtaining a +friendly interview with the natives of these parts; but I have +repeatedly seen them closely, was twice forced into dispute with +them and, in one of these instances, into deadly conflict. My +knowledge of them is chiefly drawn from what I have observed of +their haunts, their painted caves, and drawings. I have moreover +become acquainted with several of their weapons, some of their +ordinary implements, and I took some pains to study their +disposition and habits as far as I could.</p> + +<p>In their manner of life, their roving habits, their weapons, +and mode of hunting, they closely resemble the other Australian +tribes with which I have since become pretty intimately +acquainted; whilst in their form and appearance there is a +striking difference. They are in general very tall and robust, +and exhibit in their legs and arms a fine full development of +muscle which is unknown to the southern races.</p> + +<p>They wear no clothes, and their bodies are marked by scars and +wales. They seem to have no regular mode of dressing their hair, +this appearing to depend entirely on individual taste or +caprice.</p> + +<p>They appear to live in tribes subject, perhaps, to some +individual authority; and each tribe has a sort of capital, or +headquarters, where the women and children remain whilst the men, +divided into small parties, hunt and shoot in different +directions. The largest number we saw together amounted to nearly +two hundred, women and children included.</p> + +<p>THEIR WEAPONS AND IMPLEMENTS.</p> + +<p>Their arms consist of stone-headed spears (which they throw +with great strength and precision) of throwing sticks, boomerangs +or kileys, clubs, and stone hatchets. The dogs they use in +hunting I have already stated to be of a kind unknown in other +parts of Australia, and they were never seen wild by us.</p> + +<p>The natives manufacture their water-buckets and weapons very +neatly; and make from the bark of a tree a light but strong cord. +Their huts, of which I only saw those on the sea-coast, are +constructed in an oval form of the boughs of trees, and are +roofed with dry reeds. The diameter of one which I measured was +about fourteen feet at the base.</p> + +<p>LANGUAGE.</p> + +<p>Their language is soft and melodious, so much so as to lead to +the inference that it differs very materially, if not radically, +from the more southern Australian dialects which I have since had +an opportunity of enquiring into. Their gesticulation is +expressive, and their bearing manly and noble. They never speared +a horse or sheep belonging to us and, judging by the degree of +industry shown in the execution of some of their paintings, the +absence of anything offensive in the subjects delineated, and the +careful finish of some articles of common use, I should infer +that under proper treatment they might easily be raised very +considerably in the scale of civilization.</p> + +<p>INDIVIDUALS OF AN ALIEN WHITE RACE.</p> + +<p>A remarkable circumstance is the presence amongst them of a +race, to appearance, totally different, and almost white, who +seem to exercise no small influence over the rest. I am forced to +believe that the distrust evinced towards strangers arose from +these persons, as in both instances, when we were attacked, the +hostile party was led by one of these light-coloured men.</p> + +<p>SIMILARITY OF CUSTOMS WITH OTHER AUSTRALIAN TRIBES.</p> + +<p>Captain King, who had previously experienced the same feelings +of ill-will in the natives of Vansittart Bay, attributed them to +the periodical visits of the Malays during the season of the +trepang fishery. He says (volume 1 page 320):</p> + +<p>On this beach (of Vansittart Bay) we found a broken earthen +pot, which decidedly proved the fact of the Malays visiting this +part of the coast, and explained the mischievous disposition of +the natives.</p> + +<hr align="center" width="25%"> +<p>I saw but three men of this fair race myself, and thought they +closely resembled Malays; some of my men observed a fourth.</p> + +<p>NATIVES AT ROEBUCK BAY.</p> + +<p>An individual differing in appearance and colour from his +aboriginal associates was also seen amongst a native tribe whilst +the boats of the Beagle were surveying in Roebuck Bay, and is +thus ably described by Mr. Usberne, the master of the vessel; who +was in command of the boat at the time he was observed, and who +thus narrates the interview:*</p> + +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Nautical Magazine for 1840 page +576.)</blockquote> + +<p>To prevent interruption during dinner the things were removed +to the boat, and she was then shoved a few yards off the beach, +and we commenced our repast.</p> + +<p>As we took to the water they (the natives) rose and followed +us close; but in the act of shoving off, the boat-hook being +pointed over the bow, they one and all involuntarily stepped back +a couple of paces, thinking no doubt that it was one of our +spears, which to them must have appeared a formidable weapon; +but, seeing no harm was intended, they remained at the water's +edge, watching us whilst at dinner.</p> + +<p>At this time I had a good opportunity of examining them. They +were about the middle age, about five feet six inches to five +feet nine in height, broad shoulders, with large heads and +overhanging brows; but it was not remarked that any of their +teeth were wanting (as we afterwards observed in others); their +legs were long and very slight, and their only covering a bit of +grass suspended round the loins. There was an exception in the +youngest, who appeared of an entirely different race: his skin +was a copper colour, whilst the others were black; his head was +not so large, and more rounded; the overhanging brow was lost; +the shoulders more of a European turn, and the body and legs much +better proportioned; in fact he might be considered a well-made +man at our standard of figure. They were each armed with one, and +some with two, spears, and pieces of stick about eight feet long +and pointed at both ends. It was used after the manner of the +Pacific Islanders, and the throwing-stick so much in use by the +natives of the south did not appear known to them.</p> + +<p>After talking loud, and using very extravagant gestures, +without any of our party replying, the youngest threw a stone, +which fell close to the boat.</p> + +<hr align="center" width="25%"> +<p>COINCIDENCE OF CUSTOMS.</p> + +<p>It appears to me very probable that the same dark-coloured +race inhabit the whole of Northern Australia, and perhaps extend +over the islands in Torres Strait.</p> + +<p>In order to support this opinion I shall first give an extract +from the journal of Dr. Duncan, from Wilson's Voyage round the +World, page 148, which contains a detail of the customs of +Flinders Islands and part of Northern Australia, and displays two +or three remarkable customs coinciding with those observed by +myself and others to exist in Northwest Australia:</p> + +<p>At 8 hours 40 minutes P.M. the colonial brig Mary arrived, +bringing along with her a native of India, whom she picked up on +one of Flinders Islands.</p> + +<p>On the 18th July the Lascar came on board the Success, and +from him I learned the following particulars: That he belonged to +the ship Fame, which was wrecked in the Straits; that he and a +few others escaped in a leaky boat after rowing for forty-eight +hours. On landing the natives stripped them of their clothes, +etc., but otherwise behaved very kindly to them. His companions +in misfortune died the first year of his residence amongst the +natives, which in all amounted, he said, to six or seven +years.</p> + +<p>The men in that part of Australia have from five to ten wives, +of whom they are rather jealous at times. The tribes are +continually at war with one another, and have regular pitched +battles; but the moment that one is killed on either side, the +battle ceases, until they carry off their dead, and mourn for +certain days, according to their custom; bedaubing themselves +over with black earth, and on another day the fight begins and +ends in a similar way.</p> + +<hr align="center" width="25%"> +<p>DISPOSAL OF THEIR DEAD.</p> + +<p>This is singularly analogous to what occurred on our encounter +with them on the 11th February. Dr. Duncan continues:</p> + +<p>When one dies or is killed they bury the body in the earth, +but at the end of five days dig it up again and wrap up the +bones, etc., in bark of trees, and carry them along with them. +When the women fight, which is very often, they use a short kind +of club. The natives paint their bodies over with red clay to +prevent the mosquitoes from biting them. When they paint their +bodies white it is a sign of war with some other tribe.</p> + +<hr align="center" width="25%"> +<p>A very remarkable instance of coincidence in this custom with +regard to the dead will be found in a subjoined extract from a +letter sent to me by an officer of the Beagle, together with a +skeleton which he had found at Cygnet Bay. The skeleton has been +presented to the Royal College of Surgeons:</p> + +<p>The skeleton was found enveloped in three pieces of papyrus +bark, on a small sandy point in Cygnet Bay. All the bones were +closely packed together, and the head surmounted the whole. It +did not appear to have been long interred. They had evidently +been packed with care. All the long bones were undermost, and the +small ones were strewed in among them. The head was resting on +its base, face across.</p> + +<p>Three natives were close to the place when we first landed: +the eldest of the party went up to the spot immediately after I +had removed the bones; he turned up the bark with his foot, and +did not appear to show the slightest symptom of uneasiness. They +were for some days among the watering party on very friendly +terms.</p> + +<hr align="center" width="25%"> +<p>CAVES. DRAWINGS. TOMBS.</p> + +<p>As I never, during my subsequent travels in Australia, saw +anything at all resembling the painted caves which I have +described in the ninth chapter, I shall here add some +observations on the subject, which I could not have there +detailed without too great an interruption to the narrative.</p> + +<p>Two other instances of Australian caves which contain +paintings have been recorded. The first is by Captain Flinders +and the second by Mr. Cunningham in King's voyage.</p> + +<p>PAINTINGS AT CHASM ISLAND.</p> + +<p>The caves found by Flinders were in Chasm Island, in the Gulf +of Carpentaria, and are thus described:*</p> + +<p>In the steep sides of the chasms were deep holes or caverns +undermining the cliffs; upon the walls of which I found rude +drawings, made with charcoal, and something like red paint, upon +the white ground of the rock. These drawings represented +porpoises, turtles, kangaroos, and a human hand; and Mr. Westall, +who went afterwards to see them, found the representation of a +kangaroo, with a file of thirty-two persons following after it. +The third person of the band was twice the height of the others, +and held in his hand something resembling the waddy or wooden +sword of the natives of Port Jackson.</p> + +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Flinders' Voyages volume 2 page +158.)</blockquote> + +<hr align="center" width="25%"> +<p>PAINTINGS AT CLACK'S ISLAND.*</p> + +<blockquote>(*Footnote. North-east coast of +Australia.)</blockquote> + +<p>The second instance is taken from Mr. Cunningham's manuscripts +and is contained in the following extract:*</p> + +<p>The south and south-eastern extremes of Clack's Island +presented a steep, rocky bluff, thinly covered with small trees. +I ascended the steep head, which rose to an elevation of a +hundred and eighty feet above the sea.</p> + +<p>The remarkable structure of the geological features of this +islet led me to examine the south-east part, which was the most +exposed to the weather, and where the disposition of the strata +was of course more plainly developed. The base is a coarse, +granular, siliceous sandstone, in which large pebbles of quartz +and jasper are imbedded: this stratum continues for sixteen to +twenty feet above the water: for the next ten feet there is a +horizontal stratum of black schistose rock which was of so soft a +consistence that the weather had excavated several tiers of +galleries; upon the roof and sides of which some curious drawings +were observed, which deserve to be particularly described. They +were executed on a ground of red ochre (rubbed on the black +schistus) and were delineated by dots of a white argillaceous +earth, which had been worked up into a paste. They represented +tolerable figures of sharks, porpoises, turtles, lizards (of +which I saw several small ones among the rocks) trepang, +starfish, clubs, canoes, water gourds, and some quadrupeds, which +were probably intended to represent kangaroos and dogs. The +figures, besides being outlined by the dots, were decorated all +over with the same pigment in dotted transverse belts. Tracing a +gallery round to windward, it brought me to a commodious cave or +recess, overhung by a portion of the schistus, sufficiently large +to shelter twenty natives whose recent fire places appeared on +the projecting area of the cave.</p> + +<p>Many turtles' heads were placed on the shelves or niches of +the excavation, amply demonstrative of the luxurious and profuse +mode of life these outcasts of society had, at a period rather +recently, followed. The roof and sides of this snug retreat were +also entirely covered with the uncouth figures I have already +described.</p> + +<p>As this is the first specimen of Australian taste in the fine +arts that we have detected in these voyages it became me to make +a particular observation thereon: Captain Flinders had discovered +figures on Chasm Island, in the Gulf of Carpentaria, formed with +a burnt stick; but this performance, exceeding a hundred and +fifty figures, which must have occupied much time, appears at +least to be one step nearer refinement than those simply executed +with a piece of charred wood. Immediately above this schistose is +a superincumbent mass of sandstone which appeared to form the +upper structure of the island.</p> + +<blockquote>(*Footnote. King's Australia volume 2 page +25.)</blockquote> + +<hr align="center" width="25%"> +<p>PAINTINGS IN THE YORK DISTRICT.</p> + +<p>There is a third instance of a cave with a figure in it in the +district of York, in the settlement of Swan River; but in this +case the species of circle which is drawn on the cave, or rather +scraped into it with a piece of stone, may represent anything or +nothing; in fact it is no more than any idle or thoughtless +savage might have executed, without any fixed design whatever. +The only other vestige of drawing contained in the cave is +evidently the mere impression of a hand, which has been rubbed +over with the red paint with which the natives are in the +constant habit of bedaubing themselves, and has then been pressed +in on the wall.</p> + +<p>NATIVE TRADITIONS.</p> + +<p>I had been told that the natives had some very curious +traditions current amongst them with regard to this last cave +and, after having visited it and satisfied myself that there was +no analogy between it and the caves on the north-west continent +of Australia, I set about collecting some of the native stories +that related to it. These legends nearly all agreed in one point, +that originally the moon, who was a man, had lived there; but +beyond this there was nothing common to them all, for every +narrator indulged his own powers of invention to the greatest +possible degree, scarcely ever relating the same story twice, but +on each occasion inventing a new tradition; and the amount of +marvels and wonders which he unfolded in this revelation were +exactly proportioned to the quantity of food which I promised to +give him. I once or twice charged them with attempting to impose +upon my credulity and, far from denying the charge, they only +laughed and said, "that was a very good thing which they told me, +and that the Djanga (white men) liked it very much."</p> + +<p>COLOURS USED IN PAINTING.</p> + +<p>In the painted caves on the north-western coasts five colours +were used: red, several shades; yellow; blue; black, and white. +With the exception of blue these colours are all known to the +natives of the whole continent. The red they either dig up from +the earth, fit for use, in the form of red earthy pebbles, or +they find it in the form of a brilliant yellow clay, which they +beat, clean, and dry, leaving it exposed to the air for several +days, when they bake it in a bark basket, and then, if the clay +is good and it has been well prepared and burnt, it is nearly as +bright as vermilion. In some parts of the continent however no +good clay can be found; and in this case, at their annual fair, +where they meet to exchange certain commodities only locally +produced, this brilliant red ochre is considered a very valuable +article of traffic.</p> + +<p>Yellow they obtain from several sources: the most common is +the yellow clay from which the red is afterwards produced, but +they also procure it from a stone which is traversed by veins of +yellow earth; from the interior of the nest of a species of ant +which collects a yellow dust; and from a sort of fungus from +which a similar dust is also obtained.</p> + +<p>The black is nothing but finely pounded charcoal.</p> + +<p>The white is a very fine greasy species of pipe-clay, common +all over Australia, and which they use either wet or dry.</p> + +<p>How the blue colour used in the caves on the north-west was +obtained I do not know; it is very dark and brilliant, and +closely resembles the colour obtained from the seed-vessel of a +plant very common there, and which, on being broken, yields a few +drops of a brilliant blue liquid. I therefore imagined that it +was procured from this source.</p> + +<p>AGE AND MOTIVE OF DRAWINGS.</p> + +<p>With regard to the age of these paintings we had no clue +whatever to guide us. It is certain that they may have been very +ancient, for, although the colours were composed of such +perishable materials, they were all mixed with a resinous gum, +insoluble in water, and, no doubt, when thus prepared, they would +be capable of resisting, for a long period, the usual atmospheric +causes of decay. The painting which appeared to me to have been +the longest executed was the one clothed in the long red dress, +but I came to this conclusion solely from its state of decay and +dilapidation, and these may possibly have misled me very much; +but, whatever may have been the age of these paintings, it is +scarcely probable that they could have been executed by a +self-taught savage. Their origin therefore I think must still be +open to conjecture.</p> + +<p>But the art and skill with which some of the figures are +drawn, and the great effect which has been produced by such +simple means, renders it most probable that these paintings must +have been executed with the intention of exercising an influence +upon the fears and superstitious feelings of the ignorant and +barbarous natives: for such a purpose they are indeed well +calculated; and I think that an attentive examination of the +arrangement of the figures we first discovered, more particularly +of that one over the entrance of the cave, will tend considerably +to bear out the conclusion I have here advanced.</p> + +<p>SINGULARITY REGARDING THEM.</p> + +<p>It is a singularity worthy of remark that the drawings we +found in the vicinity of the coast were nothing but the rudest +scratches; that they gradually improved until we reached the +farthest point we attained from the sea; and that it was in the +vicinity of this point that some of the best productions were +found.</p> + +<p><a name="chapter12"></a></p> + +<h2>CHAPTER 12. PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. COMMERCIAL PROSPECTS.</h2> + +<p>PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. MOUNTAIN RANGES.</p> + +<p>The most remarkable geographical feature in North-Western +Australia is a high range of mountains running north-north-east +and south-south-west, named by me Stephen's Range after James +Stephen, Esquire, Under-Secretary of State for the Colonies. From +this primary range several branches are thrown off: 1. One +between Roe's River on the north and Prince Regent's River on the +south. 2. Macdonald's Range that throws off streams to Prince +Regent's River on the north and to Glenelg River on the south. 3. +Whateley's Range which gives forth streams to Glenelg River on +the north, and to the low country behind Collier's Bay and +Dampier's Land on the south.</p> + +<p>These branch ranges as well as the principal one are all +composed of ancient sandstone, deposited in nearly horizontal +strata, or of basaltic rocks which are only visible in certain +places, and are most fully developed in that part of Stephen's +Range which lies behind Collier's Bay, and in the low ground near +Glenelg River.</p> + +<p>With the extent of Stephen's Range I am unacquainted; but I +have no doubt that the high land whence the Fitzroy River takes +its rise is merely an under-feature again thrown off from it, and +which I propose to call Wickham's Range after Captain Wickham, +R.N., the discoverer of the Fitzroy.</p> + +<p>We may form some idea of the limits of Stephen's Range in a +north and east direction from the following passage extracted +from Captain King's survey of these coasts:*</p> + +<p>Lacrosse Island is situated in the entrance of a deep opening +trending to the south-south-west towards some steep, rugged +hills. The character of the country is here entirely changed. +Irregular ranges of detached rocky hills of sandstone formation, +very slightly clothed with small shrubs and rising abruptly from +extensive plains of low, level land, seem to have superseded the +low wooded coasts that almost uninterruptedly prevails between +this and Cape Wessel, a distance of more than six hundred +miles!</p> + +<blockquote>(*Footnote. King's Australia volume 1 page +291.)</blockquote> + +<hr align="center" width="25%"> +<p>It appears therefore that this main range contains within it +the sources of Roe's River, Prince Regent's and Glenelg Rivers, +most probably the Fitzroy, and those that run into Cambridge Gulf +and perhaps others that have their embouchures between this last +and Admiralty Gulf.</p> + +<p>From an accident having occurred to the only barometer we +could carry with us I am unable to state the elevation of the +highest land we reached above the level of the sea; but the +appearance of the country on the coast does not give the +impression of any very elevated ground existing near it. This +however is owing to the great height of the shore cliffs and the +gradual rise of the land towards the interior. The following +observations, made with the barometer before it was broken, will +show however that the altitude of the country at no great +distance from the coast is considerable.</p> + +<p>MACDONALD'S RANGE.</p> + +<p>Our first encampment was on the banks of a small river at a +spot 2,640 feet from the sea. This river ran through a deep and +narrow valley, descending with a nearly regular slope from a +tableland of sandstone, in which it took its rise about seven +miles inland. At this encampment the height of the bed of the +river above the level of the sea was 188.76 feet, as found by the +mean of several very accordant observations, which, at the same +average slope, gives an elevation of about 377 feet for the +height of a spot on its banks distant only one mile from the sea; +and if we conceive the average increase of elevation to the +sandstone tableland to be only 200 feet in every mile (and I +believe it to have been more) we shall have 1400 feet for the +elevation of the tableland which formed one of the highest parts +of Macdonald's Range.</p> + +<p>ELEVATION OF HILLS.</p> + +<p>After passing across this range we again descended rapidly +into the low country, the face of which is much broken by conical +hills composed of basalt. The heights of some of these hills +above their base, which had a considerable elevation above the +sea level, were in three instances as follows:</p> + +<p>February 28.</p> + +<p>The measured height of a hill above its base was 331 feet.</p> + +<p>March 4.</p> + +<p>Measured the altitude of a hill above its base and found it to +be 222 feet.</p> + +<p>March 8.</p> + +<p>Measured the altitude of a hill above its base and found it to +be 229.5 feet.</p> + +<p>None of these hills had apparently near so great an elevation +as the sandstone range of which they were under-features. At this +period our barometer was unfortunately broken. We now proceeded +up the banks of the Glenelg and arrived at many hills and conical +peaks, apparently much higher than those I had measured; yet on +afterwards passing the river and attaining the summit of the +opposite sandstone range, we looked down upon them as hills of +far inferior elevation to those on which we stood. From this +circumstance, and from the very perceptible change of temperature +we experienced, I should think the altitude of the farthest point +of Stephen's Range which we reached must have been 2,500 or 3,000 +feet above the sea.</p> + +<p>CHARACTER OF THE RIVERS.</p> + +<p>The rivers in North-western Australia much resemble in +character those of the south-eastern parts of the continent. They +rise at no very great distance from the sea. Near their sources +they are mountain torrents, but in the lowlands they become +generally streams with slow currents, winding through fertile and +extensive valleys or plains which are liable to sudden and +terrific inundations, caused, I conceive, by the rain which falls +in that part of the mountains where the rivers take their rise; +for at one period, when we had our encampment on the bank of the +small stream near the sea at Hanover Bay, I was myself distant +about fourteen miles in the interior in the direction of its +source, where we had heavy rain; and on my return I found that +the party at the station had been surprised by a sudden rising of +the water for which there was no apparent cause as there had been +no rain where they were.</p> + +<p>The Glenelg River, in like manner, is subject to sweeping +inundations, rising sometimes to the height of fourteen to +fifteen feet above its usual level, as was evinced by the weeds +and other substances we saw in the trees on its banks.</p> + +<p>To show that these are characteristics of the Fitzroy River I +shall quote the authority of Captain Wickham from a letter +addressed to me just before our meeting at Hanover Bay:</p> + +<p>It (the Fitzroy) appears to be very similar to the rivers on +the south-east side of New Holland, subject to dreadful +inundations, caused by heavy floods in the interior, and in no +way connected with the rainy season on the coast. Our visit to it +being in February and March, immediately after the rainy season +on the coast, without our seeing any indication of a recent +flooding, although there were large trunks of trees and +quantities of grass and weeds lying on the bank and suspended +from the branches of trees from ten to twelve feet above the +level of the river. The bed is entirely of sand.</p> + +<hr align="center" width="25%"> +<p>INUNDATIONS.</p> + +<p>It will be clearly seen how nearly this corresponds with what +we observed about the same season on the banks of the Glenelg. I +have therefore little doubt that the Fitzroy takes its origin +from the same mountain chain, and that the inundations described +by Captain Wickham originate in the causes which I have here +assigned.</p> + +<p>To demonstrate more clearly the similarity of character of +these rivers with those of New South Wales I shall quote two +passages from the British Colonies of Mr. Montgomery Martin, +regarding the Hawkesbury and Hunter Rivers of that colony:</p> + +<p>The Hawkesbury, which is a continuation of the Nepean River, +after the junction of the latter with a considerable stream, +called the Grose, issues from a remarkable cleft in the Blue +Mountains in the vicinity of the beautiful town of Richmond, +about forty miles from Sydney. Along the base of these mountains +the Hawkesbury flows in a northerly direction, fed by numerous +tributary mountain torrents, descending from narrow gorges, +which, after heavy rains, cause the Hawkesbury to rise and +overflow its banks as it approaches the sea. In one instance it +rose near the town of Windsor ninety-seven feet above its +ordinary level. Volume 4 page 257.</p> + +<p>Again he says, page 258:</p> + +<p>Hunter's River, about seventy miles to the northward of Port +Jackson, disembogues into the sea at the harbour of +Newcastle.</p> + +<p>There are three branches to the Hunter, called the upper, the +lower, and the middle: the two former are navigable for boats for +about 120 miles, and the latter for about 200 miles; but the +branches are all subject to sudden and terrific inundations owing +to the rapid descent of torrents from the Blue Mountains.</p> + +<hr align="center" width="25%"> +<p>MOUTH OF THE GLENELG.</p> + +<p>In concluding my remarks on the rivers of the north-west I +should state that Mr. Stokes, the surveyor of the Beagle, after a +careful examination of the coast did not succeed in finding the +mouth of the Glenelg; and he imagines that it has several +openings, consisting of large mangrove creeks, which fall into +Stokes Bay; whilst it is my impression that it will be found to +run out somewhere between Camden Sound and Collier's Bay, and +that by some accidental circumstance its mouth was missed. That +it joins the sea in a considerable body I should infer from a +shoal of porpoises having been seen high up the river, and from +the rise and fall of tide, which was twenty feet at the direct +distance of thirty miles from the coast.</p> + +<p>VALLEYS.</p> + +<p>The valleys in this country are of two kinds: those which are +almost ravines, bordered on each side by nearly inaccessible +cliffs; and valleys of great width, bordered by fertile plains, +often extensive, and which occur where the basaltic rocks are +developed; although ravines of this formation are also of +frequent occurrence in the mountainous parts.</p> + +<p>CHARACTER OF THE VALLEYS. SOIL.</p> + +<p>The soil found in the valleys of the former kind is extremely +rich, but they are all subject to very heavy inundations. As an +example of this kind of valley I may cite the one in which we +first encamped. Its mean width was only 147 feet, and the rocky +precipitous cliffs at half a mile from the sea rose above their +base 138 feet. These deep valleys undoubtedly afford water at all +seasons of the year.</p> + +<p>The sandstone formation is intersected in all directions by +valleys of this kind, which are seldom more than from two to +three miles apart, while the top of the range between them is a +tableland, divided by lateral valleys and gently rising towards +the interior. Seawards they all terminate in saltwater creeks, +having the same narrow, rocky, and precipitous character as they +present themselves.</p> + +<p>These tablelands afford good timber, particularly pine. Sheep +thrive upon the food there produced, but we found goats did not +answer so well.</p> + +<p>The richest land in this part of the country is found in the +valleys of the second class. The streams flowing through these +valleys have generally almost imperceptible currents and often +form wide reaches. The land upon their margins is thinly wooded; +and I have often seen exposed fine vegetable mould of ten or +twelve feet in thickness, through which these streams had worn +their way. Good examples of this kind of valley are those through +which run the Fitzroy and Glenelg rivers.</p> + +<p>The northern banks of Prince Regent's River I conceive to +offer no inducement whatever for the formation of a settlement, +the whole of the country in that direction, as far as I have +seen, consisting entirely of sandstone ridges. These ridges are +continually intersected by valleys, or rather ravines of great +fertility, but they are so narrow, and the good land contained in +them is so very limited in extent, that from the first moment of +the establishment of a colony here the individuals composing it +must necessarily be scattered over a large space of country. They +would thus be separated from one another by considerable +intervals, which separation would not only render them more +liable to disagreements with the natives, but would for many +other reasons be highly detrimental to the interests of an infant +colony.</p> + +<p>The same objection holds good with regard to the south bank of +this river, as far as the longitude of 125 degrees 3 minutes +east, and even after passing this point the land immediately +bordering the river is of the same sterile character; however a +creek which trends nearly south runs up from thence into one of +the most fertile countries I have ever seen.</p> + +<p>HARBOURS.</p> + +<p>The coastline to the south of Prince Regent's River is +indented, as shown upon Captain King's chart, by numerous deep +bays, many of which afford excellent anchorage; indeed I believe +that there is no other part of the world in which an example +occurs of three such fine harbours as Port George the Fourth, +Hanover Bay, and Camden Sound, lying so close to one another.</p> + +<p>These harbours alone render this a point of considerable +consequence to Great Britain; but when viewed in connexion with +the fine tract of country lying behind them its importance is +very materially increased.</p> + +<p>COMMERCIAL ADVANTAGES.</p> + +<p>Should this part of Australia be found eligible for +colonization its commercial importance is well worthy of +consideration.</p> + +<p>PRODUCTIONS SUITED FOR CULTIVATION. COTTON TRADE.</p> + +<p>The cultivated productions for the growth of which the country +and climate seem best adapted are cotton, sugar, indigo, and +rice.</p> + +<p>A species of cotton plant grows wild in the greatest +abundance, and if a colony was established and the proper +cotton-plant introduced the following advantages would be +obtained:</p> + +<p>Great Britain would possess in Northern Australia a colony +standing in the same relation to her manufacturies for cotton +that her colonies in the south do to her wool-market.</p> + +<p>This colony would also form a sort of entrepot to which the +manufactured cotton would again be exported for the purpose of +sale in the islands of the Indian Archipelago or its vicinity, +and other parts where we have at present no trade, and where +printed cottons now are, and from the nature of these countries +must constantly be, in great demand.</p> + +<p>Thus a fresh supply of cotton for our markets would be +obtained, which, coming from an English colony, would give +employment to British vessels alone, and the industry of our +manufacturers would be called into operation by an entirely new +market for cotton goods being thrown open to them, in which the +demand for these articles is far greater than the supply could be +for many years.</p> + +<p>ARTICLES OF EXPORT.</p> + +<p>The natural productions that are at present found in +North-west Australia and might be available for exportation +consist chiefly of timber, gum, lichens, and mimosa bark; all of +which are abundant, and might be collected with a trifling degree +of labour.</p> + +<p>There are many varieties of useful timber. Among others, pine, +fit for the purposes either of building or making spars for +vessels, is abundant and good, and could be readily and cheaply +exported if they were cut in the vicinity of the streams and +floated down to the sea in the rainy season, whereby all land +carriage would be avoided.</p> + +<p>I sent to England specimens of five different gums in order +that they might be examined. These consist of an elastic gum, +closely resembling Indian rubber, gum tragacynth, another gum +yielded by a sort of capparis and which I believe to be hitherto +unknown, and two kinds of gum resin.</p> + +<p>The mosses are of various kinds, many of which would afford +useful dyes; and these, together with the gums, would probably be +found valuable articles of export; for the collecting of them is +a species of labour in which the native tribes would more +willingly engage than any other I am acquainted with.</p> + +<p>Immediately off North-West Cape is good whaling ground. The +schooner employed on the expedition fell in with two vessels--the +Favourite, Captain White, and the Diana, Captain Hamott, whalers +belonging to Messrs. Bennett & Co., of London, and then +fishing between North-West Cape and the position usually assigned +to the Tryal Rocks. Both these vessels had been very +successful.</p> + +<p>COMMERCIAL PROSPECTS. TRADE WITH THE ASIATIC ARCHIPELAGO.</p> + +<p>With regard to the commerce that might be carried on by +Northern Australia with the islands of the Indian Archipelago I +have made many enquiries, and have gained from the most authentic +sources some important facts.</p> + +<p>The points upon which I first endeavoured to obtain +information were:</p> + +<p>1. What desire was evinced by the inhabitants of the islands +of the Indian Archipelago and the China Sea to become possessed +of articles of British manufacture; and,</p> + +<p>2. If they were able to pay a fair price, either in money, or +by giving goods for which there would be a demand in European +markets, in exchange for such articles of British manufacture as +might be introduced amongst them.</p> + +<p>Upon both of these points I received very satisfactory +information. In some instances most respectable merchants +detailed to me the result of speculations of this kind in which +they had been engaged; in others mercantile letters were placed +in my hands, fully corroborating what had been told me; but the +information I thus obtained bore reference also to the following +points:</p> + +<p>1. The degree of labour necessarily required to transport +articles of British manufacture to such a distant mart as the one +here contemplated for their consumption.</p> + +<p>2. The length of time during which wages must be paid to and +food provided for the individuals engaged in this labour.</p> + +<p>3. The duties to which the articles will become liable in the +various ports; and,</p> + +<p>4. The danger of loss or injury that may be incurred in their +transport thither.</p> + +<p>With regard to the two first of the above heads it appears +that the profit that may be realized by the trader is so +considerable as not only to cover the expenses that they would +necessarily entail upon him; but after these expenses have been +defrayed the residue of profit that would remain in his hands +would be so large as to render this commerce one of the most +lucrative in which capital could be embarked.</p> + +<p>METHOD OF BARTER.</p> + +<p>This will be readily conceived when it is considered that the +mode of barter is that which is most usual amongst the +inhabitants, and that the trader puts his own valuation upon the +articles he exchanges with them. One of the oldest and most +respectable merchants at the Cape made a voyage through these +islands for the purpose of procuring gold dust, and he detailed +to me the mode in which he conducted the traffic. A Spanish +doubloon was placed in one of the scales, and gold dust in the +other; when the quantity of gold dust was equal in weight to the +doubloon, he gave a doubloon's worth of goods they required, at +his own valuation; the profit realized was large.</p> + +<p>One great drawback to this commerce at present is the +necessity of coasting from place to place in order to obtain a +full cargo. The same inconvenience was felt along the coasts of +Africa and Madagascar until some enterprising London and +Liverpool mercantile houses established the system of receiving +vessels, which remained stationary at one point whilst smaller +vessels collected cargoes for them. Now a colony in some northern +part of Australia would in the same manner totally obviate this +inconvenience by affording a place in which cargoes could be +collected from small vessels, and to which the British +manufactures to be exchanged could be brought. Kupang in Timor at +the present moment is used for this purpose by the Dutch.</p> + +<p>DUTIES LEVIED AT THE ISLANDS.</p> + +<p>With regard to the third point I find that at the native +ports, in general, no duty is required; but where there is a +Rajah it is politic to make him a present in goods. The duties +levied by the Portuguese at Dili in the month of June 1838 was 10 +per cent. With regard to the duties levied by the Dutch on +British merchant vessels I know but little; but the duty demanded +at Kupang and Roti on each horse exported, or each musket +imported, was six rupees, being almost equal to their original +value. Arms or ammunition are no longer contraband either in the +Dutch or Portuguese possessions.</p> + +<p>In considering the danger of loss or injury that may be +incurred in the transport of merchandise to these parts it is +unnecessary to compute the ordinary dangers to which the merchant +is more or less liable in all quarters of the world; but two +distinct drawbacks to commercial enterprise at present exist in +these countries, which are peculiar to them, these are the +prevalence of piracy, and the constant occurrence of political +commotions in the native states. The establishment of a +settlement on the north or north-west coast of New Holland would +have however the effect of diminishing both these evils in so +great a degree that a very few years would probably suffice for +their complete annihilation.</p> + +<p>SUCCESS OF AMERICAN VESSELS. CAUSES OF IT.</p> + +<p>Notwithstanding the drawbacks occasioned to commercial +enterprise by the circumstances above detailed, there at this +moment exists a very considerable trade in the Indian +Archipelago, which is, with the exception of the few vessels that +sometimes bring ponies to the Isle of France and the British +settlements, almost wholly in the hands of the Americans. Indeed +no fact which I have met with has so much surprised me as the +extraordinary diffusion of the American commerce, and the great +spirit of enterprise exhibited by them. For in many places where +the British merchants can find no commerce apparently worth their +attention the Americans carry on a lucrative and prosperous +trade, and in half-civilized countries, where the largest profits +are always realized, the Americans are so eminently successful +that the British merchant cannot attempt to compete with +them.</p> + +<p>This appears to arise from the following circumstance. The +masters of the American vessels engaged in this kind of trade +are, in many instances, whole, and in all other instances, part +owners of the vessel and cargo; whereas masters of English +vessels have frequently little or no interest in the vessel and +cargo, and are moreover frequently tied down by directions issued +from the firm for which they act.</p> + +<p>The difference between these two cases is very great; the +American can turn every circumstance that occurs to account: he +can instantly enter into any speculation that holds out a +prospect of success; and can act with rapidity and decision on +his own responsibility. The English master, on the contrary, has +usually a certain prescribed line of duty to fulfil, from which +he cannot vary.</p> + +<p>Hence it is that we often see the American whalers with arms, +ammunition, and other articles for barter on board. They whale +off Madagascar, and, whenever an opportunity offers, carry on a +lucrative trade with the natives. From thence their course is +directed to St. Paul's and Amsterdam, and afterwards along the +coast of New Holland; and when it again becomes necessary for +them to refresh they touch at some island in the Archipelago, and +the scene of barter is once more renewed. Their cargo eventually +consists of sperm oil, gum copal and other gums, ebony, +tortoiseshell, gold dust, seal-skins, shells, and curiosities; +yet they originally started upon a whaling voyage.</p> + +<p>INSTANCES.</p> + +<p>During the years 1824 and 1825, when the port of Mombas upon +the East Coast of Africa was temporarily ceded to the British +Government, Lieutenant Emery, R.N., who was stationed there as +commander, was witness to a curious instance of this nature.</p> + +<p>Whilst this port was in the possession of the English but one +British merchant vessel arrived there, yet three American vessels +entered the harbour. The master of the English vessel was not a +part owner; the American masters were all part owners and carried +on a very lucrative trade, shipping a large quantity of ivory, +whereas the English master was placed in a very unpleasant +position, for, owing to the orders he had received from his +owners (Messrs Tobin and Co. of Liverpool) he had not been able +to ship a cargo suited to the market of Mombas, and if Lieutenant +Emery had not kindly cashed a bill for him the speculation would +have been a total failure.</p> + +<p>The cargo these American vessels brought to Mombas was +principally muskets and ammunition, which they bartered with the +natives for ivory; and this is the cargo they always ship for +trade with the inhabitants of the Indian Archipelago, and, as +muskets and ammunition are there of great value, the profit they +realize is enormous.</p> + +<p>As an instance of the kind of persons these American masters +often are I may state the following circumstance.</p> + +<p>Captain Wickham, R.N., was at Valparaiso in South America in +the year 1836, where he met a purser in the American navy who had +realized about 3000 pounds sterling; this person here quitted the +American service and laid out his capital in the purchase of a +small vessel in which, having embarked a cargo suited to the +trade of the country, he started for the coast of California; in +a short period he returned to Valparaiso, having in this single +trip more than doubled his capital; this Captain Wickham also +stated was by no means a rare instance.</p> + +<p>TRADING PRODUCTS OF THE SEVERAL ISLANDS.</p> + +<p>Having bestowed some attention on the state of trade in the +Indian Archipelago, and collected considerable information from +various individuals who had been engaged in it, I shall here +subjoin a summary of such of the principal facts as I think may +be depended on.</p> + +<p>TRADE WITH TIMOR.</p> + +<p>In all the ports of the natives, as well as those under the +Dutch and Portuguese authorities, the produce is much the same. +It consists chiefly of goats, pigs, poultry, maize, paddy, yams, +plantains, fruit, sandalwood, beeswax, and tortoiseshell in small +quantities.</p> + +<p>At Dili duties of 10 per cent are exacted and produce is +rather dear. Sandalwood is to be had at from 2 to 4 dollars the +picul of 125 catties; wax is generally from 30 to 35 dollars +(Spanish) the picul of 110 catties.</p> + +<p>The ports of Timor furnish a little gold dust at times. Good +water and firewood are to be had at most of them; that of Dili is +a good and safe one.</p> + +<p>Gold dust, I understand, is also procurable at Sandalwood +Island and New Hebrides.</p> + +<p>For vessels the good season on the coast is from about the +10th of April to the 15th of October.</p> + +<p>Cootababa affords horses and all the produce of the other +places. No duties are levied here, the place not being subject to +the Portuguese. It is a small port and should be entered with +caution.</p> + +<p>The best ports of Timor for wax are Dili, Cootababa, Ocussi, +Sitranny, Nilow, and Manatronto. It is gathered in June, cleaned +in July, and sold principally in that and the two following +months; but a vessel should be active, as enterprising people go +along the coast and buy it up for the Kupang merchants, who send +it to Batavia where it is said to sell for 120 rupees the picul; +the price at Cootababa, being lately about 80 rupees at 2 1/2 to +the Spanish dollar.</p> + +<p>Sandalwood can be had from March to October, the usual trading +season; but from March to May is the best time as vessels from +Kupang and Macao are on the coast early, buying it up in time to +return to Macao and China in the favourable monsoon. The best +ports for sandalwood are, Cootababa, Ocussi, and Sitranny, but it +is to be had most abundantly at Ata-poopa.</p> + +<p>ARTICLES IN REQUEST.</p> + +<p>Spanish dollars, muskets, and gunpowder are the essentials for +procuring wax or sandalwood, but if you wish to have a greater +assortment, small quantities may be added of any articles from +the following list.</p> + +<p>Doubloons (Spanish).<br> +Sovereigns (English).<br> +blue cloth of Pondicherry of good quality.<br> +ditto English (if cheap) of dark colour for officers.<br> +white shirting or good calico for men and women.<br> +handkerchiefs of colours and sorts.<br> +white cotton stockings.<br> +men and women's gown pieces of sorts and colours.<br> +silk stockings, plain and ribbed.<br> +shoes for men and women.<br> +brandy, rum, gin, lead and flints.<br> +quart-glass decanters, cruet stands, dress swords, wine glasses +and rummers, knives and forks, razors, needles, scissors, +earrings, bracelets, shawls of sorts, mock jewellery, sugar, +soap, biscuits.</p> + +<p>Bally and Surabaya are good places for rice, but more +especially the former, as it is to be had cheap, especially if +bartered for opium. The rice can be carried to Macao where a good +price can always be obtained for it.</p> + +<p>Puloo, Batao, and Ocussi on the coast of Timor are good places +for obtaining tortoiseshell at all times, as well as the islands +in front of Timor, from October to December. The price is about +800 Spanish dollars per picul in cash; but in exchange for blue +or white cloth, powder, arms, flint, etc., it would be obtained +for much less.</p> + +<p>Roti and Bally are both good places for ponies in exchange for +cash or goods.</p> + +<p>The following is an account of our purchase and barter at the +island of Roti in January 1838:</p> + +<p>10 horses for 10 muskets (old).<br> +4 horses for 2 fowling-pieces (old).<br> +9 horses for 27 1/2 rupees each.<br> +3 mares for 22 rupees each.<br> +8 sheep for an old regimental breastplate.<br> +14 goats for a pair of pistols (old).<br> +The duty on each horse was six rupees.</p> + +<p>In Mr. Earle's translation of the account of the voyage of the +Dutch colonial brig Dourga, which, it is stated, left Amboyna May +26th 1825 and visited the islands of Kissa, Lettee, Mon, Damma, +Lakor, and Luan,* it is said, in speaking of them:</p> + +<p>The clothing of those who cannot obtain European or Indian +cotton cloth is pieces of prepared bark fastened round their +waists.</p> + +<p>The productions of these islands are sandalwood, beeswax, +pearls, tortoiseshell, trepang, edible birds' nests, Indian corn, +rice, vegetables, with abundance of livestock. As the use of +money is scarcely known these are only to be obtained by barter +in exchange for cotton cloths, brass wire, iron chopping knives, +and coarse cutlery. The first article, cotton cloth, is most in +demand and M. Kolff suggests that a European merchant might carry +on an advantageous trade here. The value of an ox is from 8 +shillings and 4 pence to 10 shillings; of a sheep from 3 +shillings and 4 pence to 5 shillings. Beeswax can be obtained in +abundance at Roma at the rate of 2 pounds 7 shillings per +hundredweight. The trade with the islands is carried on solely by +natives, those of Macassar, Amboyna, and the Arru Islands being +the chief purchasers; and Chinese brigs from Java occasionally +visit Kissa.</p> + +<blockquote>(*Footnote. The Serwatty Islands to the east of Timor +see the map of the Asiatic Archipelago by Mr. John +Arrowsmith.)</blockquote> + +<hr align="center" width="25%"> +<p>Geby, an island in the Gellola passage, has a fine harbour; a +large quantity of tortoiseshell can be obtained there for trade +with the natives. The Asia's Islands, lying a short distance to +the northward, are not inhabited but abound in turtle.</p> + +<p>TRADE WITH THE ISLANDS OF THE ASIATIC ARCHIPELAGO.</p> + +<p>The following points of information concerning the Indian +Archipelago were furnished by Captain Brodie, formerly in command +of a Dutch vessel of 326 tons:</p> + +<p>In case of a necessity for repairing or coppering a vessel +Surabaya is the best place as it can be done well and cheap. Wood +for ship-building is abundant; and good carpenters can be had at +the rate of 20 copper doits per diem, that is to say, three men +for a rupee a day.</p> + +<p>The Malaccas are under Dutch government, of which Ternate +forms a part. It is said to be a good place to dispose of odds +and ends,* and for getting a little shell. It is also a good +place for refreshments.</p> + +<p>Banda is not so good a place to go to, if another is at hand, +as it is for a merchant vessel a strictly prohibited port. In +fact the Spice islands, or Malaccas, can be entered for water and +refreshments.</p> + +<p>At Timor (Kupang) you can get sandalwood, wax, and a little +shell, but dear.</p> + +<p>At the north-east end of Celebes there are two other places, +Monado and Keema, where the best gormootip or black coir rope can +be obtained at about 7 rupees per picul. These two places are +under the Dutch government. Some little business might be done +there: stock in particular is cheap.</p> + +<p>At the island of Ceram the inhabitants are said to be +favourable to the English, but Dutch vessels of war cruise often +about there, and are very jealous.</p> + +<p>Bouton, a small island with a Rajah under Dutch protection, +situate at the south-east end of Celebes, and off the bay of +Boni, is a place where prows assemble and get vast quantities of +shells and beche-de-mer. Nearly all these prows proceed with +their cargoes to Singapore for a Chinese market.</p> + +<p>Fine cattle are to be had at about four dollars a head at the +town of Bally, in the Straits of Allass, between Lombok and +Sumbawa.</p> + +<p>New Guinea produces good beeswax, pearls, tortoise-shell, +trepang, birds-of-paradise, etc.</p> + +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Another authority says: Tidore near +Ternate is a good friendly place. Articles for trade are +looking-glasses of a better kind, knives and forks, beads, +watches, printed calicos, blue Pondicherry cloth, Salimpores, +arms, powder, flints, lead or shot, razors, scissors, +handkerchiefs; in return for which you may get pearls, +pearl-shell, tortoiseshell, birds-of-paradise, nutmegs, +etc.)</blockquote> + +<hr align="center" width="25%"> +<p>FIELD FOR ENTERPRISE.</p> + +<p>I shall conclude this subject with some remarks of Mr. John +Sullivan. R.N., a gentleman who possesses a vast fund of +information regarding the Indian Archipelago, and to whom I am +indebted for many details regarding its commerce. He says:</p> + +<p>To suppose that the almost countless islands in the ocean +before-named (the Pacific) do not give many valuable articles, +and particularly tortoiseshell and pearl, would be no less an +error than to doubt the existence of the islands altogether.</p> + +<p>No, the case is otherwise; and it is needless to say that in +the quarter alluded to there are already a few American +merchants, who have discovered by their China, whaling, and +sealing voyages many sources of wealth, and who are at this +moment reaping rich rewards for their toil, while 999 out of +every thousand of the European world know nothing at all about +it. Nevertheless there is yet a vast field open to the +speculator, which must ever promise ample recompense for his +confidence and outlay.</p> + +<p><a name="chapter13"></a></p> + +<h2>CHAPTER 13. AT SWAN RIVER.</h2> + +<p>PLAN FOR RETURNING TO THE NORTH-WEST COAST. WHY ABANDONED.</p> + +<p>On arriving at the Mauritius I found that my stay would be +unavoidably protracted from the state of my wound, which the want +of rest and attention had prevented from healing during the +expedition, whilst my men were still suffering under the effects +of the hardships and privations they had recently been subjected +to; my first step therefore was to discharge the Lynher, and the +next to consider a plan for future operations.</p> + +<p>The rivers Fitzroy and Glenelg, simultaneously discovered by +Captain Wickham and myself, although of considerable magnitude, +were only sufficient to account for the drainage of a small +portion of the vast continent of Australia, and this interesting +question, far from being placed in a clearer point of view by our +expeditions, was if possible involved in deeper obscurity than +ever. I was therefore anxious to return to the north-west coast +and solve the mystery that still hung over those regions; but, +after considering various plans and suggestions, in which I was +kindly assisted by the advice and opinions of Sir William +Nicolay, then Governor of the Mauritius, I was induced to forego +the intention of proceeding again direct to the north-west, and +to bend my course in the first instance to Swan River. There I +could consult Sir James Stirling, the Governor, who had been +instructed on our departure from England to afford us every +assistance; and, according to the means which could then be +obtained, I might either proceed again by sea to the vicinity of +the Glenelg or the Fitzroy; or, if a proper vessel and equipments +could not be had, I might endeavour to pass the range to the +north-east of that colony, ascertain the direction of the streams +which must be thrown off by it to the interior, and trace the +main river into which they fell (if such there was) to its +outlet.</p> + +<p>PROCEED TO SWAN RIVER.</p> + +<p>I accordingly embarked my party and the stores in my +possession at Port Louis on the 21st August 1838, and arrived on +the 18th September at Swan River, where I lost no time in +communicating my views to Sir James Stirling, who concurred in +the plan for returning to the north-west; and it was arranged +that as soon as the colonial vessel Champion, then absent on a +voyage to St. George's Sound, should come back to the Swan, it +should be prepared for the conveyance to Camden Bay of myself and +party, reinforced by such additional persons as might feel +disposed to proceed there at their own cost for speculative +purposes.</p> + +<p>RETURN TO THE NORTH-WEST FRUSTRATED.</p> + +<p>It was not however until the month of December following that +the Colonial schooner became disposable, and then new impediments +arose from her being found so much in want of repair as to be, in +Sir James Stirling's opinion, scarcely in a condition to proceed +on such a voyage as we contemplated, whilst the repairs required +were of a nature which could not be effected in the Colony. From +these and other considerations, more especially the danger and +disappointment likely to be experienced for want of proper +equipment, which it was found very difficult to supply at the +Swan in an effective and satisfactory manner, the expedition to +the North-west was deemed unadvisable and for the present given +up.</p> + +<p>It is unnecessary here to dwell on the mortification I felt at +being obliged thus to abandon my long-cherished projects. The +delays I had already experienced were sufficiently vexatious, but +I had endeavoured to turn the time thus lost to some profit by +endeavouring to acquaint myself with the resources of the +country, as well as in acquiring information of a scientific +nature, and I had attained such a knowledge of the language of +the natives as enabled me to form a vocabulary of the different +dialects spoken in these parts, which was printed and forwarded +to England at the close of the year.</p> + +<p>My excursions into the country from Perth whilst awaiting the +arrival and fitting out of the Champion were necessarily short, +but the journal of one to the northward, made in company with my +young friend Mr. Frederick Smith, who afterwards fell a sacrifice +in the expedition to Shark Bay, will I think be interesting +enough to be inserted here.</p> + +<p>EXCURSION TO THE NORTH OF PERTH.</p> + +<p>November 30.</p> + +<p>Mr. Smith and myself started at noon this day, accompanied by +Corporal Auger and two natives, upon a trip in a northerly +direction; about 5 P.M. we reached a lake distant about fifteen +miles from Perth, and called by the natives Mooloore: we halted +here for the night.</p> + +<p>The horses were scarcely tethered and our fire made when four +more natives joined the party; their names were Noogongoo, +Kurral, Jeebar, and Dudemurry; they brought us a present of +twenty-seven freshwater tortoises, the average weight of each of +which was half a pound. They said that, although the lake was +called Mooloore, the name of the land we were sitting on was +Doondalup.</p> + +<p>STORY-TELLING.</p> + +<p>As soon as supper was finished they became very talkative, +and, in a sort of recitative, recounted various adventures; and, +when they conceived that they had sufficiently entertained me, +they requested me to give them an account of my adventures in the +northern part of the country, where they had heard from other +natives that I had been for some time.</p> + +<p>Having now acquired some knowledge of their language, I was +able to make myself tolerably intelligible to them, and they +listened with the greatest anxiety and interest to the various +misfortunes that befel me. When they heard that I had been +wounded by the natives to the north no persuasions or +protestations upon my part could convince them that my object in +now proceeding in that direction again was merely to gratify +curiosity, and not from motives of revenge; but they kept +continually requesting me not to attempt to kill anybody until I +had passed a spot named Yalgarrin, about ten days journey to the +north, and they then advised me indiscriminately to shoot +everybody I saw; and were the more urgent in pressing the +adoption of this course upon me from the fact of a quarrel +existing between some of their relatives and the tribe dwelling +there.</p> + +<p>After I had exhausted the theme of my northern journey they +desired me to give them some information with regard to England; +I therefore related various circumstances which I thought would +amuse them. Amongst other things I described the track of the sun +in the heavens in those northern latitudes; this they fully +understood, and it excited their most unqualified admiration. I +now spoke to them of still more northern latitudes; and went so +far as to describe those countries in which the sun never sets at +a certain period of the year.</p> + +<p>ITS IMPRESSION ON THE NATIVES.</p> + +<p>Their astonishment now knew no bounds: "Ah I that must be +another sun; not the same as the one we see here," said an old +man; and in spite of all my arguments to the contrary, the others +adopted this opinion. I wound up the night's conversation by an +account of the diminutive Laplanders, clothed in skins of the +seal instead of kangaroo; and amidst the shouts of applause that +this account excited I laid down to rest. I this night observed a +circumstance which had often before struck me, namely, that +savages care but little for narratives concerning civilized man, +but that anything connected with other races in the same state is +most greedily received by them.</p> + +<p>December 1.</p> + +<p>Before sunrise this morning the two natives Yenmar and +Nganmar, who had accompanied us from Perth, came to me and said +that, from what I had told them last night, it appeared that some +cause of quarrel existed between myself and the natives to the +north; and that, however pacifically I might now express myself, +they felt convinced that, if a fair opportunity offered, I should +revenge myself upon some northern native. Now they, being +southern men, had nothing whatever to do with these quarrels and +disputes, and therefore they should at once return to Perth.</p> + +<p>I did my utmost by means of protestations and promises to +induce them to forego this resolution, but in vain; and the only +boon I could gain from them was that they would accompany me to +another tribe, distant about five miles, some of whom would +probably go on with me; they, at the same time, assured me that +they would preserve the most profound secrecy as to the fact of +my having any cause of quarrel to the northward; and advised me +to hold my tongue upon this point and quietly shoot the first man +I saw there.</p> + +<p>MEETING WITH OTHER NATIVES.</p> + +<p>Finding that the arrangement pointed out by these natives was +the only one I could adopt I was obliged to follow their advice, +and we accordingly moved off in a north-east, and then north-east +by east direction. After travelling over about four miles of +country we heard the distant cries of natives, and soon after +came up with and found them engaged in the pleasant occupation of +carrying two wounded men on their shoulders into Perth. These men +had quarrelled and had settled the dispute to their mutual +satisfaction, as well as to that of their friends, by spearing +each other through their respective thighs. One of the poor +fellows was very ill and told me that his intention was to sit +down at my house in Perth until he was well--and he kept his +promise.</p> + +<p>I had many friends amongst these natives and soon selected +four to accompany me, their names were Warrup, Jenna, Dwer, and +Ugat. There were five northern natives with the tribe who had +never seen white men; they seemed to view us with great suspicion +at first, but the present of a little bread soon placed us on the +most friendly terms; and, after about half an hour's halt, we +separated, they proceeding to Perth whilst we pursued a northerly +course. After having made about four miles in this direction we +halted for the day at the head of the Lake Moolore.</p> + +<p>LAKE COUNTRY.</p> + +<p>December 2.</p> + +<p>We started before dawn, travelling in nearly a straight line +across the country, our compass course being 329 degrees from the +north. After we had made about three miles we reached a swampy +lake, called Nirrooba, covered with wild-fowl. We here halted and +prepared our breakfast whilst the natives went out to hunt. I +soon shot a brace of wild ducks, and they speared nine; I now +gave little Ugat my gun, and he brought in four more ducks, +making a total of fifteen. Part of these we cooked, and kept the +remainder for our dinner. I forgot to mention that we yesterday +shot twelve parakeets.</p> + +<p>I wandered for some distance about the eastern side of this +lake and saw some very good land, I should say at least fifty +acres; and, in addition to this land of the best quality, there +was plenty of good feed for cattle all round the lake.</p> + +<p>DELAY, AND BIVOUACK.</p> + +<p>At 2 P.M. we started again in a due north direction and, +having proceeded about four miles, reached a lake called +Nowoorgoop. We now changed our course to north and by west, and, +after travelling six miles more, came to a lake called, by the +natives, Beeulengurrinyup; the water was however so thick and +muddy that I determined, although it was getting late, to proceed +further; we therefore changed our course to north and by east, +and after travelling for about four miles more reached another +lake, called Maubeebee. This lake was about three-quarters of a +mile long. Mr. Smith's feet had latterly become so sore that he +had been compelled to tie pieces of kangaroo skin over them, and +thus equipped to walk without his half-boots; and, on coming in +to our bivouac, I had the mortification to hear that, having been +put carelessly on the horses, one of these boots had fallen down; +I saw therefore that it would be necessary to let him and a +native go back the next day upon the two horses we had with us +for the purpose of finding it. To Europeans it would seem rather +a visionary task to travel twelve or fourteen miles in a +trackless forest in the hope of recovering a boot, but the +natives' eyes are so keen that their finding it amounted to a +matter of certainty.</p> + +<p>LOVELY BIVOUACK.</p> + +<p>Our bivouac this night had a beauty about it which would have +made anyone possessed with the least enthusiasm fall in love with +a bush life. We were sitting on a gently-rising ground which +sloped away gradually to a picturesque lake surrounded by wooded +hills, whilst the moon shone so brightly on the lake that the +distance was perfectly clear, and we could distinctly see the +large flocks of wildfowl as they passed over our heads and then +splashed into the water, darkening and agitating its silvery +surface; in front of us blazed a cheerful fire, round which were +the dark forms of the natives, busily engaged in roasting ducks +for us; the foreground was covered with graceful grass trees and, +at the moment we commenced supper, I made the natives set fire to +the dried tops of two of these, and by the light of these +splendid chandeliers, which threw a red glare over the whole +forest in our vicinity, we ate our evening meal; then, closing +round the fire, rolled ourselves up in our blankets and laid down +to sleep.</p> + +<p>December 3.</p> + +<p>At dawn this morning Mr. Smith and Warrup started on the +horses in search of his boot; and I spent the day in shooting +wildfowl and various kind of game, as well as in collecting words +from the natives for my vocabulary. About 4 P.M. Mr. Smith +returned with his boot and we all retired early to rest.</p> + +<p>December 4.</p> + +<p>We started at sunrise and travelled about six miles in the +direction of 17 degrees, and then halted for breakfast at a lake +called Boongarrup. The whole of the country we passed over this +morning was sandy and bad, being thinly clothed with Banksia +trees; but immediately about the lake there was, as usual, good +land. We started immediately after breakfast as the natives told +us we had a long journey to make. Our course now lay in the +direction of 13 degrees. The country we passed over was still of +the same sandy nature; and after travelling about ten miles we +made another lake.</p> + +<p>STRANGER TRIBE. NATIVE TOILETTE.</p> + +<p>The natives here saw the recent signs of strange blacks and +insisted upon my coming to a halt whilst they painted themselves +and made sundry additions to their toilette. I urged my +remonstrances upon this head, but it was in vain. They said that +we should soon see some very pretty girls; that I might go on if +I liked, but that they would not move until they had completed +their preparations for meeting their fair friends. I therefore +made the best of it and sat myself down whilst they continued +adorning themselves. This being done to their satisfaction, they +came and requested my opinion as to their appearance; and as I +intimated my most unqualified approval they became in high +spirits, and gave a very animated description of the conquests +they expected to make.</p> + +<p>This weighty affair having been completed we again moved on, +the natives keeping a careful lookout for the friends they +expected to see. They at length espied one sitting in the rushes +looking for small fish; but no sooner did he see the approaching +party than he took to his heels as hard as he could, and two +others whom we had not before observed followed his example.</p> + +<p>MEETING WITH A NEW TRIBE.</p> + +<p>Our native comrades now commenced hallooing to the fugitives, +stating that I had come from the white people to bring them a +present of rice and flour. Moreover Jenna shouted out to his +uncle, "Am not I your nephew--why then should you run away?" This +and similar speeches had, at length, the desired effect. First +one of them advanced, trembling from head to foot, and when I +went forward to meet him and shook hands with him it reassured +the others, and they also joined our party, yet still not without +evident signs of fear. An old man now came up who could not be +induced to allow me to approach him, appearing to regard me with +a sort of stupid amazement; neither horses or any other of those +things which powerfully excited the curiosity of the others had +the least charm for him, but his eyes were always fixed on me +with a look of eagerness and anxiety which I was unable to +account for.</p> + +<p>We explained to the strange natives that we intended to halt +for the night in this neighbourhood, and asked them to show us a +good spot with plenty of water and grass. At the same time those +I had with me stated to the others that unless the women and +children came in I would give no rice or flour. This declaration +was however wholly unauthorised by my sanction, and arose from +their desire of exhibiting their personal attractions to the +ladies of these parts; but, feeling rather disposed to see a +little savage flirtation, I raised no objection to it.</p> + +<p>The oldest of the natives, who appeared to regard me with so +much curiosity, went off for the purpose of collecting the women +whilst we proceeded to our place of halt. After going about three +miles in a due north direction we made a river coming from an +east and by south direction, and here called by the natives +Goonmarrarup; it lies in rather a deep valley, and at this point +consisted of large pools connected by a running stream about 20 +yards wide. There was plenty of wildfowl upon these pools and +Ugat soon shot some for us.</p> + +<p>SCENERY.</p> + +<p>The scenery here was very picturesque: high wooded hills were +upon each side of us, and the valley was open and rather thinly +timbered; but the few trees it contained were of considerable +size and beauty. Beneath one of these we prepared our bivouac, +the strange natives doing their utmost to render themselves +useful. They had never before seen white people, and the +quickness with which they understood our wants and hastened to +gratify them was very satisfactory.</p> + +<p>MEETING WITH NATIVE WOMEN.</p> + +<p>After we had tethered the horses and made ourselves tolerably +comfortable we heard loud voices from the hills above us: the +effect was fine for they really almost appeared to float in the +air; and as the wild cries of the women, who knew not our exact +position, came by upon the wind, I thought it was well worth a +little trouble to hear these savage sounds under such +circumstances. Our guides shouted in return, and gradually the +approaching cries came nearer and nearer.</p> + +<p>CURIOUS SUPERSTITION. CEREMONIES.</p> + +<p>I was however wholly unprepared for the scene that was about +to take place. A sort of procession came up, headed by two women +down whose cheeks tears were streaming. The eldest of these came +up to me and, looking for a moment at me, said, "Gwa, gwa, bundo +bal," "Yes, yes, in truth it is him;" and then, throwing her arms +round me, cried bitterly, her head resting on my breast; and, +although I was totally ignorant of what their meaning was, from +mere motives of compassion I offered no resistance to her +caresses, however disagreeable they might be, for she was old, +ugly, and filthily dirty; the other younger one knelt at my feet, +also crying.</p> + +<p>At last the old lady, emboldened by my submission, +deliberately kissed me on each cheek, just in the manner a French +woman would have done; she then cried a little more and, at +length relieving me, assured me that I was the ghost of her son +who had some time before been killed by a spear-wound in his +breast. The younger female was my sister; but she, whether from +motives of delicacy or from any imagined backwardness on my part, +did not think proper to kiss me.</p> + +<p>My new mother expressed almost as much delight at my return to +my family as my real mother would have done had I been +unexpectedly restored to her. As soon as she left me my brothers +and father (the old man who had previously been so frightened) +came up and embraced me after their manner, that is, they threw +their arms round my waist, placed their right knee against my +right knee, and their breast against my breast, holding me in +this way for several minutes. During the time that the ceremony +lasted I, according to the native custom, preserved a grave and +mournful expression of countenance.</p> + +<p>This belief, that white people are the souls of departed +blacks, is by no means an uncommon superstition amongst them; +they themselves, never having an idea of quitting their own land, +cannot imagine others doing it; and thus, when they see white +people suddenly appear in their country, and settling themselves +down in particular spots, they imagine that they must have formed +an attachment for this land in some other state of existence; and +hence conclude the settlers were at one period black men, and +their own relations. Likenesses either real or imagined complete +the delusion; and from the manner of the old woman I have just +alluded to, from her many tears, and from her warm caresses, I +feel firmly convinced that she really believed I was her son, +whose first thought upon his return to earth had been to re-visit +his old mother, and bring her a present. I will go still farther +and say that, although I did not encourage this illusion, I had +not the heart to try to undeceive the old creature and to dispel +her dream of happiness. Could I have remained long enough to have +replaced this vain impression by a consoling faith I would gladly +have done it; but I did not like to destroy this belief and leave +her no other in the place of it.</p> + +<p>The men next proceeded to embrace their relation Jenna in the +same manner they had before done me; and this part of the +ceremony was now concluded.</p> + +<p>The women, who had retired after having welcomed me, again +came in from behind some bushes, where the children all yet +remained and, bringing several of them up to me, insisted on my +hugging them. The little things screamed and kicked most lustily, +being evidently frightened out of their wits; but the men seized +on and dragged them up. I took the youngest ones in my arms, and +by caresses soon calmed their fears; so that those who were +brought afterwards cried to reach me first, instead of crying to +be taken away.</p> + +<p>A POINT OF HONOUR.</p> + +<p>A considerable time had been occupied by these various +occurrences, which to me had been most interesting; but one of a +more painful character was now to follow. It appears that a +sister of the native Jenna had been speared and killed by a man +who at present was resident with this tribe; and, although most +of them were on friendly terms with this native, they conceived +that Jenna was bound to revenge her death in fair and open fight. +The old lady (my mother) went up to him and, seizing his merro, +or throwing-stick, told him that the man who had killed his +sister was at a little distance; "and if," said she, "you are not +a man, and know not how to use this, let a woman's hand try what +it can do," at the same time trying to force it from him. All the +time that she was thus pretending to wrench his merro away she +indulged in a most eloquent speech to endeavour to rouse his +courage. I do not know enough of the language to translate it +with proper spirit or effect, as I only caught the general +meaning: it had however a great effect on Jenna; and some young +ladies coming in at the conclusion, his mind was instantly made +up; indeed the certainty that bright eyes were to look upon his +deeds appeared to have much the same effect upon him that it had +upon the knights of old and, jumping up, he selected three good +spears (all the men being willing to lend him theirs) and hurried +off to an open space where his antagonist was waiting for +him.</p> + +<p>NATIVE MODE OF COMBAT.</p> + +<p>The combats, one of which was now about to take place, much +resemble the ancient tournaments. They are conducted with perfect +fairness. The combatants fight in an open space, their friends +all standing by to see fair play, and all the preliminaries as to +what blows are to be considered foul or fair are arranged +beforehand, sometimes with much ceremony.</p> + +<p>Taking into account the fantastic ornaments and paintings of +the natives, the graceful attitudes they throw themselves into +either when trying to avoid the spears of their enemy, or about +to throw their own; and the loud cries and wild motions with +which they attempt to confuse and terrify their adversaries, I +must confess that if any exhibition of this nature can be +considered showy or attractive, this has no ordinary claims to +admiration.</p> + +<p>NATIVE DUEL. REVENGEFUL COMBAT AND MURDER PREVENTED.</p> + +<p>I am however not fond of shows in which the safety of my +fellow-creatures is concerned, and on the present occasion was +very anxious that nothing of the kind should take place; for +before I could induce Jenna to come with me, I had passed my word +for his safety, and I could not bear the thought of his being now +either killed or wounded. When therefore the natives came to +request our attendance at this spectacle, which they evidently +expected would afford us great amusement, I intimated my decided +disapproval of it: at first they imagined that this reluctance +arose from some apprehension of a quarrel upon our parts, and to +remove this the greater part of the men, who now amounted to +sixteen, laid down their spears by our stores. I still however +would not sanction the combat and, taking up my gun, intimated my +intention of seeing that nothing was done to injure Jenna; upon +this my brothers proceeded in a friendly way to hold me: which is +exactly what one sees in England when two men, who have not the +least intention in the world of hurting one another, declare in a +loud tone their fixed determination of proceeding to the most +desperate extremities; whilst mutual friends stand by and appear +with the utmost difficulty to prevent them from putting their +threats in execution. It was just in this manner that my +soi-disant brothers held me, apparently not entertaining the +least doubt but that I would easily allow myself to be persuaded +not to interfere. I had now recourse to another expedient, and +this was to declare to those about me that, if either of the +combatants was wounded, I should instantly pack up the flour and +rice and proceed to the white men's fires. This had the desired +effect: those around me started off and put the holding system so +effectually in force that the other natives and the two +combatants soon came in.</p> + +<p>Some of the natives who now approached told Mr. Smith that a +cannon had been heard that morning in the direction of Fremantle; +we therefore knew that a vessel had arrived, and this made me +anxious to return to Perth; for, in the event of our obtaining +canvas for the Champion's sails, I expected that vessel would be +ready to take us in a few days to the north-west coast.</p> + +<p>RETURN TO PERTH.</p> + +<p>My anxiety to return was also increased by other reasons. Mr. +Smith had, with the exception of the first few miles, walked the +whole distance from Perth in pieces of kangaroo skin, and his +feet were now in a dreadful state from the joint effect of thorns +and bruises; he however never complained, and so much did I +admire the quietness and perseverance with which he had borne up +against so serious an inconvenience, that I was the more anxious +to put an end to it as soon as possible. Besides it was evident +that very deadly feelings existed between Jenna and the murderer +of his sister, for he (Jenna) came and requested me to call this +native my friend, at the same time to give him plenty of flour +and rice, "And," added he, "by-and-bye, ask him to sleep at your +fire; then, in the night, whilst he is asleep, I can easily spear +him; and I will off, and walk to Perth." I however cooled Jenna's +ardour by whispering to him that, if any quarrel was brought +about by his attempting to spear this native, I should instantly +shoot him; as I had no idea of running a risk of losing all our +lives through his imprudence. This declaration had a very +salutary effect, and my now giving the promised present of rice +and flour entirely put a stop to all further differences.</p> + +<p>The natives I had with me employed themselves in teaching the +others, to whom flour was an unknown commodity, the art of making +dampers; whilst Mr. Smith and myself, having arranged to start +for Perth early the next morning, mixed with the groups and +visited their fires; the little children now crawled to our feet +and, all fear being laid aside, regarded our movements with the +greatest curiosity. After various amusing conversations and +recountals of former deeds the natives gradually, one by one, +dropped off to sleep; and we in turn, one always remaining on the +watch, followed their example.</p> + +<p>INVITATION TO A NATIVE FEAST.</p> + +<p>December 5.</p> + +<p>I should have stated, in justice to the natives, that they +last night brought me the head and forequarters of a kangaroo, +being the only game they had with them; and of this they offered +to make me a present, which however I did not accept. They were +again this morning very anxious that we should delay our journey +for a day or two, promising upon their part, if we acceded to the +request, to give us a grand entertainment at which all their +young men would dance, and that we should have abundance of +kangaroos if we would give flour in return. I deemed it however +most prudent to hasten my return to Perth to see what vessel had +arrived; therefore, after taking a cordial farewell of our +friends, we moved off on our homeward route and reached +Boongarrup about the middle of the day following, by a route +rather to the westward of that by which we had come out.</p> + +<p>December 6.</p> + +<p>This morning we started at daybreak and breakfasted at +Manbeebee, and immediately after breakfast resumed our route. I +left the main party with two natives and travelled up a swampy +valley running nearly in the same line as the chain of lakes we +had followed in going. The natives insisted on it that these +lakes were all one and the same water; and when, to prove to the +contrary, I pointed to a hill running across the valley, they +took me to a spot in it, called Yundelup, where there was a +limestone cave, on entering which I saw, about ten feet below the +level of the bottom of the valley, a stream of water running +strong from south to north in a channel worn through the +limestone. There were several other remarkable caves about here, +one of which was called the Doorda Mya, or the Dog's House. +Probably therefore the drainage of this part of the country is +affected by the chain of lakes, which must afterwards fall into +the river I saw to the northward. We slept at Nowoorgoop.</p> + +<p>RETURN TO PERTH.</p> + +<p>December 7.</p> + +<p>We slept at Mooloore, and on the morning of the 8th we entered +Perth and found that the native's information was true, for the +Britomart had arrived from England.</p> + +<p>I have already stated that on the arrival of the Champion her +condition did not enable us to proceed in her, and all prospect +of being able to conduct another expedition to the north-west +coast being, for the present, abandoned, I could only await +further instructions from the Government at home, and in the +meantime resolved to employ the interval in some scheme of +exploration from the Swan which did not present the same +obstacles. Having again consulted Sir James Stirling, it was +first arranged that I should endeavour to explore overland in the +direction of Shark Bay; but this was soon abandoned on account of +the difficulty of procuring horses; and, to enable me to attempt +this scheme with any hope of success, I should consequently be +obliged to incur a much greater expense than I felt warranted in +doing.</p> + +<p>The same objection did not however exist to the plan of +exploring the coast towards Shark Bay in boats; and I imagined, +if I could obtain two good ones qualified for the purpose, that I +might at a small expense have some chance of making a successful +trip. But there still existed a difficulty in getting boats which +occasioned a further delay.</p> + +<p>Sir James Stirling had now (January 1839) quitted the colony, +having been succeeded in the government by John Hutt, Esquire, +and, as no immediate prospect was apparent of accomplishing my +present design, I readily acceded to a request made to me which +led to another excursion to the southward of Perth, the principal +circumstances of which are narrated in the following short +journal.</p> + +<p>EXCURSION IN SEARCH OF MR. ELLIOTT. CAUSE OF IT.</p> + +<p>In consequence of a conversation I had with his Excellency the +Governor on the morning of the 8th of January I received, in the +afternoon of that day, a letter from the Colonial Secretary +stating that:</p> + +<p>From accounts which had been received from the Williams and +Leschenault, there appeared every reason to believe that Mr. +George Elliott, who left the former place for the latter on the +17th December, had lost his way, as no accounts of his arrival +have been received from the Leschenault, the Williams, or any +other place.</p> + +<p>Under such circumstances His Excellency the Governor is +anxious that a party in search of him should be despatched from +Perth, and he has instructed me to inform you that, if you could +form such a party from your own establishment, you would be +rendering a service to the local government, etc. etc.</p> + +<hr align="center" width="25%"> +<p>As I had at this moment no matter of importance to occupy the +party I resolved to follow that course which the calls of +humanity pointed out to me, and within an hour from the receipt +of this letter Mr. Walker, myself, and the two non-commissioned +officers of the Sappers and Miners were ready to proceed. It was +found however impossible to procure the necessary horses for us +before the next day, and our departure was consequently delayed +until the morning of the 9th.</p> + +<p>Before entering into the details of this expedition it is +requisite to give a short outline of the circumstances under +which we started. The Williams River, from which Mr. Elliott had +proceeded, is distant about seventy miles from Leschenault in a +direct line. The Williams is in the interior, and the Leschenault +on the sea-coast, and between the two places lies the Darling +Range, a high chain of mountains which had never before been +crossed at this point. Now, under ordinary circumstances Mr. +Elliott might have been expected to have reached Leschenault in +three or four days. He had therefore only carried with him a +supply of provisions calculated to last for that period. His +party consisted of two men besides himself, and he had with him a +mare and filly.</p> + +<p>His absence had however now unaccountably extended to a period +of twenty days; and the only rational conclusion that could be +arrived at was that he had either been murdered by the natives or +had lost his way.</p> + +<p>The Williams is distant from Perth in a direct line about one +hundred and twenty miles, and I had thus a considerable journey +to perform before I could get upon Mr. Elliott's tracks; and as +this was the bad season of the year there was but little hope +that we should be able to follow them for any great distance, if +we ever succeeded in finding them.</p> + +<p>Notwithstanding these various discouraging circumstances I +still however felt warm hopes for his ultimate safety. He was +well acquainted with the bush, having been ten years in the +colony; and the same articles of food which formed the +subsistence of the natives would at least enable him to maintain +life for a considerable period. He had moreover with him two +horses, which past experience had taught me not only to be a +nutritious, but even an agreeable article of food. I imagined +therefore that no immediate danger of starvation need be +apprehended; and in order that I might have the best possible +chance of finding his traces three intelligent natives, Miago, +Denmar, and Ninda, were engaged to accompany me.</p> + +<p>On the morning of the 9th however, when the party were all +ready to start, these natives were not forthcoming. The length of +the journey and the danger of falling in with hostile tribes had +frightened them, and they therefore kept themselves aloof from +us; but Kaiber, one of the most intelligent natives of these +parts, volunteered to supply their place. Our three horses were +soon swum across the estuary of the Swan; and with no slight +anxiety I started on an expedition upon the proper conduct of +which would probably depend the lives of three of my +fellow-creatures.</p> + +<p>ROUTE TO THE MURRAY.</p> + +<p>Our proceedings until we had reached Pinjarra on the banks of +the Murray offer little or no interesting matter; I shall +therefore pass them over in silence. We arrived in Pinjarra on +the morning of the 11th, having been somewhat delayed by the +weakness of a young horse; as there was however no possibility of +obtaining another in its place I was obliged to take it on with +us. On the afternoon of the 11th we made little more than four +miles in a southerly direction along the banks of the Murray.</p> + +<p>THE MURRAY RIVER.</p> + +<p>On the 12th we started before dawn and travelled about eight +miles in a south by east direction; we then halted for breakfast +on the banks of the same river, which here issues out of the +Darling Range after having found a passage through that chain of +mountains. Whilst breakfast was preparing I walked up into the +mouth of the gorge, which was replete with most wild and +beautiful scenery at this point. The river comes streaming out +from a rocky mountain pass, forming in its course a series of +small cataracts. The vale in which it runs offers an interesting +specimen of woodland scenery, and the high, bold, and partially +bare granite mountains which rear their heads above it differ +much in character from the tame mountain scenery that lies +between Perth and York: this place is a favourite resort of the +wild cattle, and we saw everywhere numerous recent traces of +them.</p> + +<p>WILD CATTLE.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon we again started in a south by east +direction. About a mile after leaving the Murray we came suddenly +upon four head of wild cattle; two, which were distant from us, +made off to the mountains, but a noble white bull and a cow +followed a line lying exactly in the course we were pursuing. As +we had one saddle-horse, which I was then on, I could not resist +having a gallop after them. I soon brought the bull to bay, but +when he had taken breath he turned and made off again and, as I +had no time to spare, I gave him no further interruption; on +however wishing to ascertain the hour I found that my watch had +fallen from my pocket during the course of the gallop.</p> + +<p>NATIVE TRACKING.</p> + +<p>I now waited until the party came up, when I requested Kaiber +the native to walk back and find the watch. This he assured me +was utterly impossible, and I really at the time agreed in this +opinion; however as it was a watch I much valued I determined to +make one effort. "Well, Kaiber," I said to him, "your people had +told me you could see tracks well, but I find they are mistaken; +you have but one eye, something is the matter with the other +(this was really the case) no young woman will take you, for if +you cannot follow my tracks and find a watch I have just dropped +how can you kill game for her." This speech had the desired +effect, and the promise of a shilling heightened his diligence, +and I returned with him. The ground we had passed over was badly +suited for the purpose of tracking and the scrub was thick; +nevertheless, to my delight and surprise, within the period of +half an hour my watch was restored to my pocket. This feat of +Kaiber's surpassed anything of the sort I had previously seen +performed by the natives.</p> + +<p>We completed about eight miles and then halted for the night +on the banks of a running stream issuing from a gorge in the +hills. There was a considerable portion of good land in its +neighbourhood and the horses appeared not a little pleased with +the excellence of the feed.</p> + +<p>The 13th we spent in passing a portion of the Darling Range. +After travelling for eleven miles over a hilly country we came +upon a beautiful valley between two steep and high hills. Two +streams poured down into this valley and there formed a small +freshwater lake. The scenery here was so green and verdant, the +tranquil little lake was so covered with broad-leaved +waterlilies, and the whole wore such an air of highland mountain +scenery that I could readily have imagined I was once more in +Scotland. About this lake there was also much good feed.</p> + +<p>CROSS THE DARLING RANGE.</p> + +<p>In the course of the afternoon we travelled eight miles +further in an easterly direction, and were then obliged to halt +without water, which we did not again succeed in finding after we +left the lake.</p> + +<p>TO THE HOTHAM RIVER.</p> + +<p>On the morning of the 14th we had only travelled six miles in +a due easterly direction when I found we had crossed the Darling +Range; our course now lay along a level fertile plain, well +fitted for pastoral purposes. We travelled across this a distance +of about five miles when we came upon the river Bannister, which +here was nothing but a series of large pools with good feed for +cattle about them. We halted for breakfast and afterwards +continued in an easterly direction, when, after travelling for +another six miles, we reached the Hotham. The land we passed over +between the Bannister and Hotham was equal in goodness to any I +have seen in Western Australia.</p> + +<p>The circumstance of both water and feed abounding at the +Hotham induced me to halt here for the night, and on the morning +of the 15th we commenced our toilsome march from the Hotham to +the Williams; the distance is about twenty-eight miles in a +direct line; the country consisting of rocky hills, difficult to +cross; and throughout the whole of this distance we could find no +water: we were thus for eleven hours exposed to the sun in one of +the hottest days I have ever felt, and we were not a little glad +when just at sunset we found ourselves on the banks of the +Williams.</p> + +<p>CONDITION OF DISTANT SETTLERS.</p> + +<p>We here found the establishment of an out-settler, of which it +would be difficult to convey an adequate idea: the house +consisted of a few upright poles, one end of each resting on the +ground, whilst the other met a transverse pole, to which they +were tied; cross-poles then ran along these, and to complete the +building a sort of rude thatch was tied on it. It was open at +both ends and exposed to the land wind, which, as the situation +was high, I found a very unpleasant visitor during the night. +Here we found a very large flock of sheep in fair condition, also +a well-supplied stockyard, and cattle in beautiful order; upwards +of twenty kangaroo dogs completed the establishment.</p> + +<p>These settlers were, at the time I visited the Williams, four +in number; consisting of one young man, two youths, and a little +boy. Four soldiers were quartered about sixteen miles from them, +and there was no other European within fifty miles of the spot. +The distance they had to send for all stores and necessaries was +one hundred and twenty miles, and this through a country +untraversed by roads and where they were exposed to the hostility +of the natives in the event of any ill-feeling arising on their +part.</p> + +<p>Nothing can give a more lively notion of the difficulties and +privations undergone by first settlers than the fact that, when I +left this hut, they had no flour, tea, sugar, meat, or any +provision whatever except their livestock and the milk of the +cattle, their sole dependence for any other article of food being +the kangaroo dogs, and the only thing I was able to do in order +to better their situation was to leave them some shot.</p> + +<p>All other circumstances connected with their position were on +the same scale. They had but one knife, an old clasp one; there +was but one small bed for one person, the others sleeping on the +ground every night, with little or no covering; they had no soap +to wash themselves or their clothes, yet they submitted +cheerfully to all these privations, considering them as necessary +attendants upon their situation. Two of these out-settlers were +gentlemen, not only by birth but also in thought and manner, and, +to tell the truth, I believe they were far happier than many an +idle young man I have seen lounging about in England, a burden to +himself and his friends; for it must be borne in mind that they +were realizing a future independence for themselves.</p> + +<p>THEIR PRIVATIONS.</p> + +<p>Many of the ills and privations which they endured were +however unnecessary, and were entailed upon them by the mistaken +system that has been pursued at Swan River of spreading to the +utmost their limited population. I trust however that a wiser +line of policy will now be pursued, and that settling will +consequently become an easier, less dangerous, and far more +agreeable task.</p> + +<p>ROUTE ALONG MR. ELLIOTT'S TRACKS. TRACKING MR. ELLIOTT.</p> + +<p>On the morning of the 16th Mr. Walker went to the Upper +Williams, where the soldiers were quartered, for a further supply +of provisions, whilst the native and myself tried to make off Mr. +Elliott's tracks, in doing which we were not however successful. +The next morning, previously to Mr. Walker's return, I renewed my +search with Kaiber for the tracks with a little more success, as +amidst the numerous traces of cattle and horses along the bed of +the river the native was able by his acute eye to discover the +footsteps of a colt. When Mr. Walker returned the little boy +belonging to the establishment came back with him. He had seen +Mr. Elliott start and assured me that he had heard him express +his determination of keeping the bed of the river for eighteen +miles. With this piece of information we moved on down the river +on the tracks which we were able to distinguish for about two +miles and a half, when they quitted it in a south-south-west +direction; and from the hard nature of the ground the tracking +from thence became excessively difficult. If the colt had +traversed this route, its little foot had made no impression on +the soil; and when we got on the ironstone hills, we altogether +lost the traces of the horse. Both the native and myself +imagined, from our seeing no tracks of the colt, from the +indistinctness of those of the horse, and from the circumstance +of the boy's telling us that Mr. Elliott intended to proceed +eighteen miles down the river, that we had followed the wrong +marks; just therefore as night began to fall I moved back to the +river.</p> + +<p>January 18.</p> + +<p>We started at dawn, following down the river, but could see +nothing of Mr. Elliott's tracks: and our evening journey was +equally unsuccessful. I now became very anxious and indeed rather +alarmed for the safety of the missing party, but resolved, as the +best plan I could pursue, to strike across the mountains to +Leschenault, making a due west course my true line of route, but +constantly diverging two or three miles to the south of this, and +again returning to it by another route. I should thus have every +chance of falling in with the track I wished to find; and in the +event of my not succeeding I should be certain, if on my arrival +at Leschenault no tidings had been received of Mr. Elliott, that +his party must be somewhere to the southward and eastward of the +course I had taken, and that I might still, by the assistance of +the Leschenault natives to whom this country was known, succeed +in finding him before such a period had elapsed as would render +assistance useless.</p> + +<p>KILLING A KANGAROO.</p> + +<p>On the 19th, in pursuance of this determination, we made a +rapid push of nearly twenty miles in a westerly direction without +reckoning our divergencies to the southward. Nothing however but +toil and disappointment rewarded our exertions. We killed a large +Boomer, or old male kangaroo, the largest indeed I had ever seen; +the dogs were unable to master him he fought so desperately, and +it was not until after he had wounded two of them that I +succeeded in dispatching it by a sort of personal encounter in +which a club was the weapon I used. The native who was carrying +my gun had dropped it the instant the kangaroo was started, and I +was thus unable to shoot it. We cut off as much of the flesh as +the dogs and ourselves required for two days and left the rest in +the forest. We halted for the night on a small stream, the only +one I had seen since we quitted the Williams.</p> + +<p>COUNTRY UPON THE HARVEY RIVER.</p> + +<p>Our departure was delayed on the morning of the 20th for about +an hour from being unable to find one of the horses which had +strayed away in the night, but, the fugitive being at length +discovered and brought back, we started and made nine miles +before breakfast. We then travelled nine and a half miles more, +when we came upon the river Harvey near its source. The character +of the country we had travelled over since entering the mountains +was monotonous in the extreme. It consisted of an elevated +tableland composed of ironstone and granite occasionally +traversed by veins of whinstone. On this tableland there was +little or no herbage; the lower vegetation consisting principally +of a short prickly scrub, in some places completely destroyed by +the native fires; but the whole country was thickly clothed with +mahogany trees, so that in many parts it might be called a dense +forest. These mahogany trees ascended, without a bend or without +throwing off a branch, to the height of from forty to fifty feet, +occasionally much more, and the ground was so encumbered by the +fallen trunks of these forest trees that it was sometimes +difficult to pick a passage between them. Even at midday the +forest wore a sombre aspect, and a stillness and solitude reigned +throughout it that was very striking. Occasionally a timid +kangaroo might be seen stealing off in the distance, or a +kangaroo-rat might dart out from a tuft beneath your feet; but +these were rare circumstances. The most usual disturber of these +wooded solitudes were the black cockatoos; but I have never in +any part of the world seen so great a want of animal life as in +these mountains.</p> + +<p>Upon our gaining the Harvey however the scene somewhat +changed; the river here bore the appearance of a mountain +trout-stream, sometimes gurgling along with a rapid current, and +sometimes forming large pools. The tableland could no longer be +distinguished as it here changed to a broken chain of hills +traversed by deep valleys; the scrub was higher and entwined by a +variety of climbing plants, which rendered it very difficult to +traverse; the mahogany trees became less frequent, and various +others were mingled with them, whilst on the banks of the river +good forage abounded. We made about five miles more through a +country of this description and then halted for the night.</p> + +<p>LOSE THE TRACKS. NATIVE GRAVE.</p> + +<p>January 21.</p> + +<p>We did not make more than seven miles before breakfast this +morning, being embarrassed both by high and tangled underwood and +rocky hills. We then halted on the banks of the Harvey, where +there was some beautiful grass. We had still been able to find +nothing of Mr. Elliott's tracks, and had in vain looked for +natives: but this evening, soon after starting again, for the +first time signs of them appeared, for we found a newly-made +grave, carefully constructed, with a hut built over it to protect +the now senseless slumberer beneath from the rains of winter. All +that friendship could do to render his future state happy had +been done. His throwing stick was stuck in the ground at his +head; his broken spears rested against the entrance of the hut, +the grave was thickly strewed with wilgey or red earth; and three +trees in front of the hut, chopped with a variety of notches and +uncouth figures and then daubed over with wilgey, bore testimony +that his death had been bloodily avenged.</p> + +<p>KAIBER'S FEARS.</p> + +<p>The native Kaiber gazed with a degree of concern and +uneasiness on this scene. "A man has been slain here," he said. +"And what, Kaiber," I asked him, "is the reason that these spears +are broken, that the trees are notched, and that wilgey is +strewed on the grave?" His answer was, "Neither you nor I know: +our people have always done so, and we do so now." I then said to +him, "Kaiber, I intend to stop here for the night, and sleep." +"You are deceiving me," he said: "I cannot rest here, for there +are many spirits in this place." I laughed at his fears, and we +again moved on.</p> + +<p>WANT OF WATER.</p> + +<p>We now soon got clear of the hills and came out upon a plain +of good land, thickly covered with grass-trees. This plain was +about three miles in width and, having traversed it, we found +ourselves in a sandy country abounding with Banksia trees. We +crossed several swamps, now completely dried up, and having made +ten miles halted for the night without water. Mr. Walker scraped +a hole in one of these swamps and obtained a little putrid and +muddy water which, not being very thirsty, I did not drink, more +especially as we had now, or indeed for several days, had no tea +or anything else to mix with it.</p> + +<p>January 22.</p> + +<p>We started again at dawn this morning and travelled rapidly, +for we were anxious to obtain water. In six miles we came out +upon the sea. If my reckoning was right we ought now to have been +about ten miles to the north of Leschenault; I therefore turned +due south. Kaiber however now came up and remonstrated against +this, assuring me that I was wrong and that we were, at this +moment, two or three miles to the south of Leschenault, and that +if I persisted in going on in this direction we should all die +for want of water. As I put great faith in his knowledge of the +country I halted and ascended a hill to try and get a view along +the coast; I could not however succeed on account of the haze; +and believing then that I must be in error I turned north. We +trudged on, hour after hour; the sun got higher and more +intensely hot, whilst, having been four-and-twenty hours without +water, the greater part of which time had been spent in violent +exercise under a burning sun, the pangs of thirst became very +annoying. A short period more convinced me that I was right, and +that Kaiber was in error; and, as we soon after fell in with two +native wells now dried up, we dug another in a promising-looking +spot near them, and obtained a little water, very muddy and +stinking; but I never enjoyed a draught more in my life. We here +halted for breakfast and by degrees obtained water enough for the +horses as well as ourselves.</p> + +<p>ESTUARY OF THE LESCHENAULT.</p> + +<p>The evening was consumed in retracing our steps of the +morning, and at night we halted near the head of the Leschenault +estuary, being again without water.</p> + +<p>January 23.</p> + +<p>Our route this morning was along the estuary of the +Leschenault. About five miles from this place we fell in with a +party of natives, who informed us that a few days before Mr. +Elliott and those with him had arrived there in perfect safety, +and my anxiety on this point was therefore set at rest. We passed +the mouth of the river Collie at the bar, which was almost dry, +and halted for breakfast on the banks of the Preston, about one +mile from the house where I expected to find Mr. Elliott.</p> + +<p>MEET WITH MR. ELLIOTT. MR. ELLIOTT'S ADVENTURES.</p> + +<p>No sooner was breakfast despatched than I set off to see Mr. +Elliott in order to hear the history of his adventures, which +were not a little surprising. He had, as I before related, +started on the 17th of December from the Williams, with only +three days' provisions and, owing to some mistake, had taken a +south-south-west course and gone off in the direction where we +first saw his tracks, and had pursued this route for three days, +when, seeing nothing of the coast, he suspected he must be wrong, +and endeavoured to make a due west course; but from the +impassable nature of the mountain range at this point was unable +to do so. About this period also, owing to his powder-horn having +been placed too near the fire, it was accidentally blown away, +and he was thus left totally without protection in the event of +any attack being made on them by the natives. His own courage and +resolution however never failed, and he still made the best of +his way to the southward, seizing every opportunity of making +westing. For twelve days he pursued this course, subsisting on +native roots and boiled tops of grass trees. About the sixth day +he fell in with some natives; but they ran away, being frightened +at the appearance of white men, and he thus could obtain no +assistance from them. At this period the filly strayed away from +the mare and was lost. His men behaved admirably; and on the +fourteenth day the party succeeded in reaching Augusta, having +previously made the coast at the remarkable white-sand patch +about fifty miles to the eastward of it.</p> + +<p>Notwithstanding the hardships and sufferings they had +undergone this party were but very little reduced in strength +and, after recruiting for a few days at Augusta, returned along +the coast to Leschenault, where I had the pleasure of seeing them +all in good health and spirits.</p> + +<p>THE VASSE DISTRICT.</p> + +<p>January 21.</p> + +<p>Whilst the party reposed themselves this day at Leschenault I +hired a horse and rode along the shores of Geographe Bay for the +purpose of seeing the Vasse district. The country between +Leschenault and the Vasse differs from those other parts of +Western Australia that I have yet seen in the circumstance that +in several parts, between the sea and the recent limestone +formation, basaltic rocks are developed. A long chain of marshy +lakes lie between the usual coast sandhills and the ordinary sand +formations, about which there is some good land and good feed. +About the river Capel also there is a great deal of good land. +The mouths of two estuaries that occur between the inlet of +Leschenault and the bottom of Geographe Bay are both fordable. +The district near the bottom of Geographe Bay contains much good +land, consisting of level plains thickly covered with wattle +trees; there are also at this season of the year extensive plains +of dry sand, which bear exactly the appearance of a desert.</p> + +<p>I passed the night at the house of Mr. Bussel, a settler who +has the best and most comfortable establishment I have seen in +the colony, and returned the next day to Leschenault with the +intention of starting the following one for Perth.</p> + +<p>RETURN TO PERTH. RIVER ABSORBED IN SANDY PLAINS.</p> + +<p>January 26.</p> + +<p>Mr. Elliott this day joined us on our route to Perth, which +was attended with no circumstance worthy of notice until our +arrival at Pinjarra. We travelled over extensive plains which in +the rainy season of the year must be completely flooded, but in +vain looked for the Harvey River and the other stream which +flowed from the hills to the sea. I could find no watercourse in +which they might probably flow, yet we had left them both running +strongly at not more than ten miles from the point where we then +stood. The truth was that they were absorbed in these marshy +plains before they came within several miles of the sea; and what +threw a still further light upon the subject was that, although +these marshes were perfectly dried up and had a hard-baked +appearance at the surface, yet if a hole about two or three feet +deep was scraped in them water directly came pouring into it.</p> + +<p>On the morning of the 29th we reached Pinjarra; on the 30th +Mr. Elliott and myself rode as far as the Canning; and early on +the 31st we had the pleasure of entering Perth together. [20. Map +and Chart of the West Coast of Australia, from Swan River to +Shark Bay, Including Houtman's Abrolhos and Port Grey, from the +Surveys of Captains Grey, Wickham, and King, and from other +official Documents, compiled by John Arrowsmith.]</p> + +<p><a name="chapter14"></a></p> + +<h2>CHAPTER 14. FROM SWAN RIVER TO THE SHORES OF SHARK BAY.</h2> + +<p>PLAN OF EXPEDITION.</p> + +<p>At length, in the middle of February, after a mortifying delay +of nearly five months, an opportunity occurred which held out +every prospect of enabling me to complete the examination of the +most interesting portion of the north coast, together with the +country lying behind it.</p> + +<p>Three whale-boats having been procured, an engagement was made +with Captain Long of the American whaler Russel, of New Bedford, +to convey my party and the boats to some point to the northward +of Shark Bay, and there land us, together with a supply of +provisions sufficient for five months. My intention was to form a +provision depot in some island, and from that point to commence +operations by the examination of the undiscovered portions of the +bay; and, should circumstances occasionally render it desirable, +I proposed to explore more minutely parts of the country as we +coasted along, or to make excursions to such a distance inland as +we might be able to penetrate.</p> + +<p>Having completed the examination of the bay as far as we could +with the provisions we carried from the depot, I intended to +return to it and, after recruiting our stock, to make my way +along the coast in the direction of North-West Cape; making +excursions inland as before at such points as might seem to merit +attention, and thus to continue to go northward until our +provisions were so far exhausted as to compel us to return again +to the depot; whence I finally proposed to continue my +examination to the portion of the coast left unvisited to the +southward of the depot, as far as Gantheaume Bay.</p> + +<p>Several of the individuals who were to compose my party being +now much experienced in the difficulties that attend explorations +both on the coast and in the interior of the country, I felt that +our enterprise was not so hazardous as at first it might appear +to be, especially as Mr. Hutt had arranged with me as to a spot, +to which, in the event of our not returning to Swan River within +a certain period the Colonial schooner would be sent to look for +us; and moreover the captain of another American whaler had +promised to visit North-West Cape at the end of July, as it was +his intention to remain in Exmouth Gulf during the season of the +bay fishing. We had thus two chances of being discovered in case +of any accident preventing us from effecting our previous return +to the Swan River.</p> + +<p>The unfortunate occurrence which frustrated my expectations of +completing this design, and which threatened the eventual +destruction of the whole party, will be narrated in its +place.</p> + +<p>FROM SWAN RIVER FOR SHARK BAY.</p> + +<p>I had taken three whale-boats in order to have a spare one +should any accident reduce the number; and everything being +arranged I sailed in the Russel from Fremantle on Sunday February +the 17th 1839 at 3 P.M. with the following party:</p> + +<p>Mr. Walker, the Surgeon of the former expedition.</p> + +<p>Mr. Frederick Smith, the young gentleman who had accompanied +me on a former tour.</p> + +<p>Corporal Auger and Corporal Coles, Sappers and Miners.</p> + +<p>Thomas Ruston, Sailor.</p> + +<p>The last three, together with Mr. Walker, had been with me on +the first expedition, and to these were added:</p> + +<p>H. Wood and C. Wood, Seamen.</p> + +<p>Clotworthy, Stiles, and Hackney, taken as volunteers at Swan +River.</p> + +<p>And lastly, Kaiber, an intelligent native of the Swan.</p> + +<p>Making in all twelve persons.</p> + +<p>Our time during the voyage was occupied principally in getting +the three whale-boats in order and making other similar +preparations. Poor Kaiber the native was dreadfully sick from the +first.</p> + +<p>Sunday February 24 1839.</p> + +<p>This evening we Sighted the centre of Dorre Island, and stood +in to within about two miles of the shore, which we found steep +and rocky with a heavy surf breaking on it; we then tacked and +stood off for the night.</p> + +<p>LAND AT BERNIER ISLAND.</p> + +<p>February 25.</p> + +<p>Soon after daybreak we made the north-western part of Bernier +Island and, doubling the point at Kok's Island, stood in to Shark +Bay. Kok's Island is very remarkable: it is nearly a tableland, +about a quarter of a mile in length, terminating in low cliffs at +each extremity; and on the summit of this tableland are several +large rocks which look like the remains of pillars. The land is +low. By noon we were all disembarked on Bernier Island. The point +I had selected for landing on was a sandy beach in a little bay, +the southern extremity of which was sheltered from the south-east +by a reef running off the point. Captain Long of the Russel made +the shore rather to the northward of the point I had chosen and, +owing to his boat getting broadside on whilst they were landing +the goods, he was knocked down under it and nearly drowned.</p> + +<p>He had scarcely left us (though the Russel was then more than +six miles off) when we found that our keg of tobacco had been +left on board; the vessel was soon out of sight, and this +article, so necessary in hardships where men are deprived of +every other luxury, was lost to us. Everything else was however +found correct. Whilst the men under Mr. Walker's direction were +arranging the stores Mr. Smith, Kaiber, and myself started to +search for water but were unsuccessful. Whilst on our return we +saw three large turtles among some seaweeds in shoal water; and, +after a good deal of floundering about and some tumbles amongst +the breakers, we succeeded in turning them, and then brought a +party armed with axes, etc. and cut them up. One part we +immediately converted into soup, and the remainder was immersed +in a cask of pickle as a store against unforeseen misfortunes. +When these portions of the turtle were put into the brine long +after the death of the animals, they quivered for several +minutes, as if still endowed with the sense of feeling.</p> + +<p>DESCRIPTION OF IT.</p> + +<p>Bernier Island consists of recent limestone of a reddish +tinge, containing many recent fossil shells, and having a coating +of sand and sandy dunes which are arranged in right lines, lying +south-east and north-west, the direction of the prevailing winds. +The island does not afford a tree or a blade of grass, but only +wretched scrubby bushes. Between the dunes regular beds of shells +are forming which, when dried and light, are drifted up by the +wind. The only animals we saw were kangaroo-rats, one pigeon, one +small land- and many seabirds, a few lizards, mosquitoes, ants, +crabs, oysters and turtle.</p> + +<p>BURY THE STORES. INEFFECTUAL SEARCH FOR WATER.</p> + +<p>February 26.</p> + +<p>Early this morning we had finished burying our stores. The +wind had freshened considerably about daylight, and throughout +the day it blew nearly a gale from the south-east; it now looked +so foul that I feared a long period of bad weather was about to +commence. My own party, as well as the crews of the boats which +came off from the whaler, had during the hurry and confusion +incident on landing made very free with our supply of water, and +as, from the appearance of the island, I felt very doubtful +whether we should find any more, I put all hands on an allowance +of two pints and a half a day, and then employed the men thus: +one party under the direction of Mr. Walker worked at +constructing a still, by means of which we might obtain fresh +water from salt; another made various attempts to sink a well; +whilst the native, another man, and myself traversed the island +in search of a supply from the surface.</p> + +<p>At night the result of our efforts were recounted, when it +appeared that Mr. Walker had, by an ingenious contrivance, +managed to have such a still constructed that we might hope, by +means of it, if kept constantly working, to obtain just water +enough to keep us alive. The party who had tried to sink a well +had invariably been stopped by hard limestone rock in every place +they had tried, and all their attempts to penetrate it by means +of a cold chisel and pickaxe had proved abortive. The party which +had been out with me searching for water had not seen the +slightest sign which indicated its presence on the island: we had +taken a spade with us, but wherever we dug had come down upon the +solid rock. Under these circumstances I reduced the allowance to +two pints a day.</p> + +<p>February 27.</p> + +<p>This morning it still blew nearly a gale of wind from the +south-east. The men were occupied in the same manner as +yesterday; but towards noon the wind moderated a little, and as +we could find no water I resolved to make an effort to creep +along shore to the southward.</p> + +<p>LOSS OF A BOAT IN REEMBARKING.</p> + +<p>My boat was soon launched in safety, but the Paul Pry, Mr. +Walker's boat, was not so fortunate; the water in the bay +deepened rapidly from the steepness of the bank, and the +steersman, who was keeping her bow on whilst the crew were +launching, got frightened from the depth of water and the +violence of the surf, and let go his hold; when the next surf +threw the boat broadside on to the sea and, there being nearly +half a ton weight of stores in her, and the wind at this juncture +unfortunately freshening, she was in the course of two or three +minutes knocked completely to pieces. By this mischance all the +stores in the boat were lost, and nothing but a few planks and +some articles of clothing were recovered. I placed my own boat at +anchor in a little cove for the night and, leaving two men in her +as keepers, the rest of us swam ashore through the surf to render +what assistance we could.</p> + +<p>The loss of this boat was a very heavy misfortune to commence +with; but as I had taken the precaution in case of such an +accident to provide a spare one it was by no means irremediable; +the other boat was all ready for launching within half an hour, +for by not allowing the men to remain in a state of inactivity, +and by treating the matter lightly, I hoped to prevent their +being dispirited by this unlucky circumstance.</p> + +<p>The wind however continued freshening rapidly, and during the +evening and night we had heavy squalls accompanied by rain from +all quarters, and much thunder and lightning. During the night we +collected a few quarts of water in the sails.</p> + +<p>February 28.</p> + +<p>About ten A.M. the wind moderated so much that we ventured to +launch our remaining boat, now become the second, and in a few +minutes both were riding alongside one another in the little +cove. We then commenced pulling along the shore of the island, +making about a south by east course. Having the wind very nearly +right ahead, and a heavy head-sea, and about half a ton of stores +in each of the boats, it was no very enviable position that we +were in; but anything appeared preferable to dying of thirst on +Bernier Island; my dislike to which was much increased from the +fact of Mr. Smith and myself, who slept side by side, having been +nearly tormented to death in the night by myriads of minute ants +crawling over us, by mosquitoes stinging us, and by an odious +land-crab every now and then running over us and feeling with his +nippers for a delicate morsel.</p> + +<p>PULL FOR DORRE ISLAND.</p> + +<p>It was nearly three P.M. when we reached the north-eastern +extremity of Dorre Island and found a most convenient little boat +harbour, sheltered by a reef from all winds. We therefore stepped +out from the boats upon the reef and left them lying comfortably +at anchor: a search for water was instantly commenced; Mr. +Walker's party brought some in and we were not a little glad to +get it, although we heard that it had been collected by suction +from small holes in the rock and then spitting it into the keg. I +laid up in store this precious draught, and those who had been +otherwise employed now accompanied me, in order that each might +suck from the holes in the rock his own supply of water. The +point on which we had landed was a flat piece of land covered +with sandy dunes which appeared to have been recently gained from +the sea, and on all the landward sides of the flat rose steep +rocky cliffs, which is the character of the shores of this +island. After climbing these cliffs you arrive at a flat +tableland which forms the general level of the surface. It was +evident that at no very distant time the sea had washed the foot +of these cliffs.</p> + +<p>DORRE ISLAND. ITS CHARACTER.</p> + +<p>This island is exactly of the same nature as Bernier Island, +the only difference being that the land here was rather higher +than on the former. From the top of the cliffs the prospect was +not at all inviting; to the westward lay the level and almost +desert land of Dorre Island, which we were on; we had the same +prospect to the southward; to the northward we looked over a +narrow channel which separated us from the barren isle of Bernier +and was blocked up by fearful-looking reefs, on which broke a +nasty surf; to the north-eastward lofty bare sandhills were +indistinctly visible on the main; whilst to the eastward we could +see nothing but the waters of the bay, which were tossed wildly +to and fro as if by a coming storm; yet the wind had fallen +perceptibly, and the only alarming sign was the peculiar look of +the sky. After having made these observations, and sucked up as +much bitter dirty water as I could contrive to do, I returned +with the others to the boats.</p> + +<p>WANT OF WATER.</p> + +<p>The holes we found the water in were so small that we could +only dip a spoon into a few of them; the men however got plenty +to drink and then commenced hunting a small species of +kangaroo-rat which is found on these islands, and searching for +turtle's eggs, in both of which pursuits they were very +successful. We then made blazing fires from driftwood which we +found about, and retired early to rest.</p> + +<p>A HURRICANE.</p> + +<p>About eleven o'clock I heard a cry of one in great distress, +"Mr. Grey, Mr. Grey!" I instantly sprung up and answered the +call, when Ruston, the boatkeeper in my boat, said, "I must heave +all overboard, Sir, or the boat will be swamped." "Hold on for a +minute or two," was my answer, whilst I stripped my clothes off. +I found that it was blowing a terrific gale of wind which +increased every moment in a most extraordinary manner; the wind +was from the south-east, and the breakers came pouring over the +reef as if the bay was going to empty bodily all its waters into +the little cove in which the boats were anchored. I now called +Mr. Walker and Mr. Smith and desired them to follow me off to the +boats with two or three hands, and then swam out to my own, which +I found nearly full of water, and it was all that the boat-keeper +could do to keep her head on to the sea. In a minute or two Mr. +Walker and Mr. Smith, who were ever foremost in difficulties and +dangers, swam off to assist me, but they could not induce any of +the men to face the sea and storm, which was now so terrible that +they were all quite bewildered. Mr. Walker swam to his own boat; +Mr. Smith came to mine. We made fast a line to all the stores, +etc. and Mr. Smith boldly plunged in again amongst the breakers +and returned ashore with it, a service of no ordinary danger, for +the shore was fronted with a sharp coral reef, against which he +was certain to be dashed by the waves, and, after having got on +it, the breakers would keep knocking him down and thus cutting +his legs to pieces against the rocks. Mr. Smith however reached +the shore with the line, receiving sundry severe cuts and +bruises; and, to my great surprise, in a few minutes more he was +again by my side in the boat, baling away: it was still however +all we could do to keep the boat afloat.</p> + +<p>BOATS DRIVEN ASHORE.</p> + +<p>Mr. Walker now called out to me that his boat was drifting, +and in a moment more she went ashore. For one second we saw her +dancing wildly in over the breakers, and then she disappeared +from us, and we were left in uncertainty as to her fate; for, +although we were close to the beach, it was impossible, amidst +the din of elements, to hear what was taking place there. An +occasional vivid flash of lightning showed us dark figures +hauling about some huge object, and then again all was wrapped in +roar and darkness. Mr. Smith and myself in the meanwhile were +baling away, and Ruston was striving with the steer oar to keep +her head to sea, for the instant she got the least broadside on +the waves broke over her and she filled again.</p> + +<p>SERIOUS DANGER OF LOSING THE BOATS.</p> + +<p>Mr. Walker, nothing daunted by the conduct of the men, having +had his own boat hauled up, again swam off to us, and for the +next hour or two we kept the other one not more than half full; +but the gale, which had been gradually increasing, now became a +perfect hurricane, and it was evident that this boat must also go +ashore. We imagined that Mr. Walker's must be stove in several +places; and, as to have been left without a boat would have been +certain destruction to us, I swam ashore to have the party ready +to try and save mine by hauling her over the reef the instant she +grounded.</p> + +<p>I arrived there with a few cuts and bruises, and found the men +on shore in a most miserable state; many of them were perfectly +appalled by the hurricane, never having seen anything of the kind +before, and were lying under the lee of the bow of Mr. Walker's +boat, which, although he had drawn it up high and dry upon the +sandhills, far above the usual high-water mark, was again more +than half full of water and seaweed from the waves every now and +then breaking over her stern. It was with great difficulty I +roused the men and got them to clear out the seaweed, which +lightened her somewhat; we then hauled her up a little at a +favourable opportunity, and advanced her so far that we rather +gained upon the water by baling, and thus, by degrees, got her +quite on land. But as the storm continued the waves still +continued to encroach upon the shore, and we were obliged to +repeat this operation of hauling up three successive times in the +night, which was one of the most fearful I have ever passed. I +lay drenched through, my wet shirt sticking close to me and my +blanket soaked with water, for I could not find my clothes again +after I came ashore. Whenever a flash of lightning broke I looked +if the boat was drifting in, and there I saw it still dancing +about upon the waves, whilst the elements were so mighty in their +power that I felt shrunk up to nothing, and tremulous in my own +insignificance.</p> + +<p>The grey dawn stole on and the boat gradually became visible; +she had drifted somewhat nearer shore, but there still were the +three figures discernible in her, Ruston working away at the +steer-oar, and Mr. Smith and Mr. Walker alternately baling. The +storm now appeared to lull a little and in a few minutes (about +half-past five A.M.) it suddenly dropped. The men now looked out +again and I could hear Ruston saying, "I believe we are now safe, +Sir;" and I immediately ordered that two men should go off and +relieve Mr. Smith and Mr. Walker. They evidently feared to make +the attempt and said they could not swim, which was true as far +as some of them were concerned. I then ordered successively three +men who I knew could swim to take advantage of the lull and gain +the boat: they all attempted it, but before they got clear of the +reef their hearts failed them, and they declared they could not +contend with the waves.</p> + +<p>RENEWAL OF THE STORM.</p> + +<p>Just as the last man had failed, the wind, which had hitherto +been from the south-east, shifted instantaneously to the +north-west. We all quailed or fell before it, for it came with +sudden and indescribable violence; the boat appeared to hesitate +for one moment, in the next she came dancing wildly in on the +shore. The men reached her as well as they could and we dragged +her up. The storm now became so violent that even Mr. Walker, who +was a heavy man, was blown about by it like a child; there was +not a tree on the island, but the bushes were stripped from the +ground, and I found it impossible to keep my legs.</p> + +<p>The sea all this time kept rising, being heaped up by the wind +against the shore, but whenever a momentary lull came we took +advantage of it to drag the boat a little further up; indeed the +sea gained on us so much that I had made up my mind it would +sweep away the intervening sandhills and once more wash the face +of the cliffs. In this case we should to a certainty have all +perished.</p> + +<p>DISTRESS FOR WATER.</p> + +<p>At two P.M. the storm lulled considerably, and I immediately +despatched men in all directions to collect water from holes in +the rocks, and made the native and an old bushman try to light a +fire; for those of us who had been all the night and morning in +the pelting rain, with nothing but our shirts on, were benumbed +and miserable from cold.</p> + +<p>March 1.</p> + +<p>The men who had gone out for water soon returned and reported +that they had been able to find very little which was not +brackish from the spray having dashed over the island; I +therefore again reduced the allowance to one pint a day and +proceeded to inspect damages. Yesterday we had started in good +boats, with strong men, plenty of provisions, everything in the +best order; today I found myself in a very different position, +all the stores we had with us, with the exception of the salt +provisions, were spoilt; our ammunition damaged; the chronometers +down; and both boats so stoved and strained as to be quite beyond +our powers of repairing them effectually. Moreover from want of +water we were compelled to make for the main before we could +return back to Bernier Island to recruit from our ample stores +there.</p> + +<p>REPAIR OF THE BOATS.</p> + +<p>Nothing however could be done but to have the boats rendered +as seaworthy as possible and, having given this order, the want +the men experienced for water was the best guarantee that they +would execute this task with the utmost diligence. As soon as I +saw them at their work I started with a party in search of water +whilst another party under Mr. Smith dug for it; and Mr. Walker +superintended the rearrangement of the stores and the digging up +the seaweed for the purpose of recovering lost articles. I +returned just before nightfall from a vain search; Mr. Smith had +been equally unsuccessful in his digging operations, and we thus +had to lie down upon the sand parched with thirst, our only +chance of forgetting our misfortunes being a few minutes +sleep.</p> + +<p>THE BOATS NEARLY READY.</p> + +<p>March 2.</p> + +<p>The men continued working hard at the boats, and it appeared +that their task would be concluded this day. I once more started +to look for water and to examine the island; but our search was +again unsuccessful. On measuring the distance that the sea had +risen I found that it had spread up in the direction of our boats +fifty-three yards above high water mark; but what will give a +better idea of the hurricane is the circumstance of my catching a +cormorant on the beach, about seven o'clock on the morning of the +1st, and during the height of the storm, the bird not even +attempting to fly, being in appearance completely appalled at the +violence of the wind. It was reported to me at night that another +hour's work in the morning would render the boats fit for +sea.</p> + +<p>Sunday March 3.</p> + +<p>The men had slept but little during the night for they were +oppressed with thirst; and when I rose in the morning I saw +evident symptoms of the coming of another roasting day. They were +busy at the boats as soon as they could see to work, whilst Mr. +Smith and myself ascended the cliffs to get a view towards the +main. When I looked down upon the calm and glassy sea I could +scarcely believe it was the same element which within so short a +period had worked us such serious damage. To the north-east we +could see the lofty white sandhills in Lyell's Range; to the +eastward nothing was visible; yet this was the point to which I +had determined to steer, for several reasons. In the first place, +the land in that direction had never been visited; and secondly, +I had found the shores of Dorre Island covered with great forest +trees, which must have been washed across the bay, and which from +their size could only have been brought out from the continent by +some large and rapid stream, which we at this moment would gladly +have seen as there was only about a pint and half of water per +man left.</p> + +<p>SAIL FOR THE MAIN.</p> + +<p>When we returned to breakfast I found the boats nearly ready +for sea, and about eleven o'clock they had been all hauled down, +the stores stowed away, and everything made ready for launching, +and off we went, not a little rejoiced at the prospect of soon +having an abundant supply of that liquid on which our lives +depended. There was scarcely any wind but that little was right +aft so that between sailing and pulling we made about five knots +an hour. The boats were however so heavily laden that the men +found it very laborious work, for they were exposed to the rays +of a burning sun and had nothing to drink but half a pint of +water, which was all I could allow them.</p> + +<p>We however persevered from soon after eleven A.M. until five +P.M., when the men began to get disheartened from seeing no signs +whatever of land, and I ordered my boat's crew to knock off +pulling for a little, and in Mr. Walker's boat, which was about a +mile astern, they did the same. In twenty minutes time I made my +crew again take to their oars, but the other boat did not in this +instance follow our example, so that we kept dropping her rapidly +astern. This was very annoying; but as I was anxious at all +events to get a glimpse of the land before sundown we still +pulled away, trusting that the other boat would soon follow in +our wake.</p> + +<p>GROUND ON A SANDBANK.</p> + +<p>About half an hour before sunset we sighted the land: several +low rounded hills were the first things seen; then what I +conceived to be very lofty trees rose in sight, and almost at the +same moment the boat grounded on a sandbank.</p> + +<p>EXTENSIVE SHALLOWS.</p> + +<p>I had observed this shoal several miles before we came to it +and it appeared to extend as far as I could see both north and +south, but, as I had no doubt that we should find sufficient +water on it to enable us to cross, I had given it no attention. I +now however on looking more carefully could perceive no limit to +its extent in those directions and, as I thought I saw deep water +immediately to the eastward of us, I ordered the men to jump out +and track the boat over. This they did; but on coming to what +appeared to be deep water we found it was only a continuation of +the same sandbank, covered with seaweed, which gave the water a +darker appearance. The men now alternately tracked or pulled the +boat for about five miles over a continuation of the sandbank; a +work very fatiguing to those who were already exhausted by +several days' continuous exertion on a very short allowance of +water in a tropical climate. It had now been for some time night, +and we had taken a star for our guide which just before sunset I +had seen rising over the main. I thought we had at last gained +the shore, at least the boat was close to a dark line rising +above the water which appeared like a wooded bank; two of the men +now waded onwards to find out the best place for landing and to +light a fire that the crew of the other boat might know where we +were. I saw them to my surprise not ascend a wooded bank but +disappear amongst the trees; and still through the silence of the +night I heard the splash of men walking through water, and in a +minute or two afterwards the cries and screams of innumerable +startled waterfowl and curlews, who came flying in flocks from +amongst the mangrove trees.</p> + +<p>FAIL IN MAKING THE LAND.</p> + +<p>The men returned and reported that there was no land or any +sign of land hereabouts; that the mangroves were a belt of trees +upon a sandbank and that the water deepened inside; that the tide +evidently rose very high, from the tufts of seaweeds in the +bushes; that it was then rapidly coming in (which was evident +enough, for the boat was afloat) and that the other side of the +mangrove bushes was an open sea.</p> + +<p>This was unpleasant intelligence. That it was untrue I felt +assured; but one man, who certainly could not have seen more than +a hundred yards ahead of him on so dark a night, spoke as +confidently as if he had seen fifty miles, and this discouraged +the others: so by way of keeping their minds occupied I got under +weigh again and stood off a little to the southward in the hopes +of falling in with the other boat. We cheered at intervals of a +few minutes, and fired a gun, whereupon ensued a great screaming, +whistling, and flapping of wings amongst the waterfowl, but no +human voices were heard in reply.</p> + +<p>ANCHOR OFF MANGROVE CREEK FOR THE NIGHT.</p> + +<p>When we had gone as far to the southward as I thought prudent +I stood out from the shore for about a mile so as to have a good +peep in amongst the mangrove bushes in the morning for the other +boat, and having dropped our anchor we laid down as we best could +for the night; and, speculating upon what explanation the native +wise men would give to their fellows of the unknown and novel +sounds they had this night heard upon the coast, I soon fell +asleep.</p> + +<p><a name="chapter15"></a></p> + +<h2>CHAPTER 15. THE GASCOYNE RIVER.</h2> + +<p>REACH AND ENTER A MANGROVE CREEK.</p> + +<p>March 4.</p> + +<p>Early in the morning I had a good lookout kept for the other +boat, which I was very anxious to see in order that I might have +a sufficiently numerous party for the purpose of landing and +looking for water; as I always held it to be better, upon first +appearing amongst natives who had never before seen Europeans, to +show such strength as might impress them with a certainty that we +were well able to resist any attack which they might naturally +feel inclined to make on such strange and incomprehensible +intruders as white men must necessarily appear to them. Soon +after the sun rose we descried the other boat about three miles +to the southward of us; and I despatched two men to wade along +the flats and communicate with Mr. Walker: they were to direct +him to get under weigh and to make the best of his course, either +by tracking, pulling, or sailing, until he reached the point +where I might land.</p> + +<p>The men whom I sent quickly made his boat, which I perceived +moving slowly up the flats; and as soon as the men rejoined me we +started. The wind was fair, being from the southward, and I +wished to reach some gently elevated hills which I saw about +eight miles to the north by east of our present position.</p> + +<p>SEARCH FOR AND COMPLETE OUR WATER.</p> + +<p>We soon came to a very promising opening which proved to be a +creek, with a mouth of about two hundred yards wide, running up +in a north-east direction, and having five fathoms of water +inside, but with a bar entrance. When we had proceeded up it +about two miles it became so narrow that there was not sufficient +space left for the men to use their oars; therefore, making fast +the two boats, I landed with a party to look for water.</p> + +<p>I stepped very gingerly and cautiously on the mud, for shore +there was none; and I had the satisfaction of descending at once, +mid-leg deep in the odious slime; but this being endured the +worst was over, and, at the head of my sticking and floundering +party, I waded on, putting to flight whole armies of crabs who +had taken up their abode in these umbrageous groves, for such +they certainly were. The life of a crab in these undisturbed +solitudes must be sweet in the extreme; they have plenty of +water, mud, and shade; their abodes are scarcely approachable by +the feet of men, and they can have but little to disturb their +monotonous existence save the turmoils of love and domestic +war.</p> + +<p>After about two miles of wading of this description, which we +considerably increased by turning and winding about to avoid soft +places, we at length fairly stepped on terra firma and found +ourselves at the base of some almost imperceptibly-sloping ground +which gradually rose into low, red, sandy, loamy hills, thinly +covered with grass, bushes, and stunted trees. Across these we +bent our steps in a south-east direction, no change whatever +taking place in the character of the country as far as we went or +as far as we could see. But our travels in this line only +extended for about three miles, when we suddenly came upon a +lagoon of fresh water lying between two of the hills. All bent +the knee at once, at this discovery, to plunge their faces deep +in the pool, and, presently raising them up again, a black watery +line, extending round the countenance, showed plainly how deeply +each one had dipped.</p> + +<p>Mr. Smith and myself laughed heartily at our dirty-faced +companions, who knelt on their hands and knees round the pool; +and whilst they were filling the beakers with water we rested +under the shade of the bush for a few minutes, and then walked +off towards the interior; but from the undulating low nature of +the ground our view was very limited, and as far as we could see +there was no sign whatever of any change in the character of the +country. On returning again to the party we found the beakers and +men equally full of water and ready for a start to the boats.</p> + +<p>WADING THROUGH THE MUD.</p> + +<p>When we reached again the mangrove flats a most amusing scene +commenced; wading through the mud was bad enough before, but now +that each man had a heavy keg of water upon his shoulders the +movements became truly ludicrous, more especially as both +landsmen and sailors were equally out of their element. Each +desperate plunge elicited from the sufferers oaths and +expressions which only those who have seen sailors completely at +a nonplus on shore can conceive. They were half humorous, half +pathetic, and never did I see men more thoroughly woebegone and +bedaubed with mud than the party when we made the boats +again.</p> + +<p>Those whom I had left behind now greedily drank the water of +which they were so much in want, and, as it was necessary to +complete our stock of it here, after we had dined I despatched +all hands but Mr. Smith and one man back to the lagoon. Mr. Smith +was too unwell to go again and I remained with him. This party +took their rations with them as they were to remain by the lagoon +all night in order, as they termed it, "to have a good bouse out +of water, and a good wash," and were to return to the boats as +soon after daylight as possible.</p> + +<p>We had remarked tracks of natives on shore but, as I saw by +their fires that they were now at least eight or ten miles from +us, I was under no apprehension of an attack from them. The +mosquitoes however threatened to be very troublesome, and when I +say that just about sunset we were completely blackened from the +numbers that covered us I do not in the least exaggerate; we +could not make a fire to keep them away, and I therefore quietly +resigned myself to my fate. Poor Smith, who was already very +feverish, passed a night of perfect torment, and awoke in the +morning seriously ill. We soon heard the voices of the party +returning and, having helped them and their loads of water out of +the mud, we returned down the creek.</p> + +<p>COAST THE LAND TO THE NORTHWARD.</p> + +<p>March 5.</p> + +<p>On standing out there was a fresh breeze blowing from the +south-east, and when we were about half a mile from the shore the +water to the northward deepened a great deal, for although it was +now nearly low tide we had here two and a half fathoms with sandy +bottom. All along the shoals we had met with abundance of shell +and other fish, and the pearl oyster was very abundant; indeed +the shellfish along these banks were more numerous and varied +than I had ever before found them. I saw but few shells which I +recognised as belonging to the southern portions of Australia, +whilst many were identical with those which occur to the +north-west.</p> + +<p>EXAMINE ANOTHER MANGROVE CREEK. CHARACTER OF THEIR +SCENERY.</p> + +<p>There was no high land whatever in sight; but one low hill, +which just appeared above the mangrove tops, bore north by east. +After running north-east for about two miles with the same depth +of water we came to another opening in the mangroves of a more +promising character than several small ones which we had +previously passed, and as, from the greater depth of the water, +the extraordinary low character of the coast, and the +circumstance of the driftwood upon Dorre Island, I expected to +find a large river hereabouts, I determined to examine even the +smallest openings most narrowly; we therefore ran straight for +this one, and found that it had a shoal mouth with only four feet +water at the entrance. The opening ran east 1/2 north, and after +we had followed it up for about half a mile it became very narrow +and shoaled to two feet, so we turned about and again pulled away +to sea. This opening, as well as the first we had entered, +appeared rather like a canal running through a woody grove than +an arm of the sea; the mangrove trees afforded an agreeable +shade, and were of the most brilliant green, whilst the blue +placid water not only washed their roots but meandered through +the sinuosities of the forest like a quiet lake till sight of it +was lost in the distance.</p> + +<p>We now stood north-north-west parallel to the shore, which was +fronted by mangroves; and here we again had only two and a half +feet of water. A very low chain of hills extended parallel to the +shore and about two miles behind the mangroves. We thus continued +running along the coast until we made a large opening which was +about three-quarters of a mile across at the mouth. On either +side of the entrance was a sandy point, covered with pelicans and +wild-fowl who seemed to view our approach with no slight degree +of surprise. As yet we did not know the proper entrance to the +river (for such it was) so that where we ran into it we had only +two feet of water. Three low hills were immediately in front of +us, and I afterwards ascertained that the proper course for +entering was to steer so as to keep the centre of the opening and +the middle hill in the same line.</p> + +<p>DISCOVER ONE MOUTH OF THE GASCOYNE RIVER, AND EXPLORE THE +COUNTRY IN ITS VICINITY.</p> + +<p>The opening now widened into a very fine reach, out of which +the water was running rapidly, and when we had ascended about a +mile I saw large trees, or snags (as they are called by the +Americans) sticking up in the bed of the river; as these trees +were of a very large size, and evidently had come from a +different country to the one we saw upon the river banks, I felt +assured that we had now discovered a stream of magnitude, and, +the eager expectations which these thoughts awoke in our breasts +rendering us all impatient, we hauled down our sail and took to +the oars. The bed of the river however became choked with +shallows and sandbanks, and when we had ascended it about three +miles, the water having shoaled to about six inches, I selected a +suitable place for our encampment and prepared to start and +explore the country on foot.</p> + +<p>SURVEY OF MOUTHS OF THIS RIVER AND BABBAGE ISLAND.</p> + +<p>As soon as all had been made snug I moved up the river with +three men. Its banks were here about five feet high; the bed of +white sand, and about half a mile across; the centre of the +channel was full of salt water, and in breadth about a quarter of +a mile. We had not proceeded more than a few hundred yards when +we unexpectedly came upon another mouth of the river as large as +that upon which we stood, and which ran off nearly west. The +river itself appeared to come from the north-east, and we saw +salt water still further up than where we were.</p> + +<p>NATIVES AND A SHARK.</p> + +<p>Just on the eastern bank of the stream was a clump of small +trees and reeds which I walked up to examine with a desire to +recognise any trees belonging to known species, but to my horror, +on looking into the reeds, I saw what appeared to be a huge +alligator fast asleep. The men now peeped at it and all agreed +that it was an alligator. I therefore retreated to a respectful +and suitable distance and let fly at it with a rifle; it gave, as +we thought, a kind of shake, and then took no further notice of +us. I therefore took a double-barrelled gun from one of the men +and drove two balls through the beast, and now feeling sure it +must be dead (for it never moved) I walked up to it, when, upon +examination, it turned out to be a huge shark, of a totally new +species, which had been left in some hole by the tide where the +natives had found and killed it, and, being disturbed by our +approach, had run away, first hiding it in this clump of reeds. +There were two natives and they had made off right up the bed of +the river, taking the precaution to step in one another's tracks +so as to conceal if possible their number.</p> + +<p>CHARACTER OF THE RIVER.</p> + +<p>To those who have never seen a river similar to the one we +were now upon it is difficult to convey a true idea of its +character. It consisted of several channels or beds divided from +each other by long strips of land, which, in times of flood, +become islands; the main channel had an average breadth of about +two hundred and seventy yards; the average height of the bank at +the edge of it was about fifteen feet, and the bed of the river +was composed of porous red sand apparently incapable of +containing water unless when previously saturated with it. After +passing the highest point reached by the sea this huge river bed +was perfectly dry, and looked the most mournful, deserted spot +imaginable. Occasionally we found in this bare sandy channel +waterholes of eighteen or twenty feet in depth, surrounded with +tea trees and vegetation, and the driftwood, washed high up into +these trees, sufficiently attested what rapid currents sometimes +swept along the now dry channel. Even the waterholes were nearly +all dried up, and in the bottom of these the natives had scooped +their little wells.</p> + +<p>The river channel ran up in a due north-east direction for +about four miles without in the least altering its character. It +was in vain that we walked over the intervening slips of land +into the side channels; these in all respects except in being +narrower exactly resembled the main one; and, after ranging +across from bank to bank in this way, the only general conclusion +I could arrive at was that the country upon the northern bank of +the river appeared scrubby and covered with samphire swamps, +whilst that upon its southern bank seemed rich and promising.</p> + +<p>EXPLORE THE COUNTRY INLAND TO THE NORTH OF THE RIVER.</p> + +<p>The river now made a sudden turn to the east by north, and we +followed it in this direction for three miles and a half without +finding the slightest change in its character or appearance. No +high land whatever was in sight, and from a low rounded hill, +which was the highest point we could see, the rise of the country +towards the interior was scarcely perceptible; indeed it +presented the appearance of being a vast delta; and such I then +and subsequently conjectured it to be.</p> + +<p>During our walk up the bed of the river we had seen many +cockatoos, some wildfowl, and numerous tracks of natives; these +all appeared to me to be indications of a well watered and +fertile tract of country.</p> + +<p>I now turned off west by south, quitting the bed of the river, +which I named the Gascoyne in compliment to my friend, Captain +Gascoyne, and found that we were in a very fertile district, +being one of those splendid exceptions to the general sterility +of Australia which are only occasionally met with: it apparently +was one immense delta of alluvial soil covered with gently +sloping grassy rises, for they could scarcely be called hills; +and in the valleys between these lay many freshwater lagoons +which rested upon a red clay soil that tinged the water of its +own colour and gave it an earthy taste.</p> + +<p>The country here was but very lightly timbered and well +adapted for either agricultural or pastoral purposes, but +especially for the growth of cotton and sugar, should the climate +be sufficiently warm; and of this I think there can be no doubt +whatever. I was so won by the discovery of this rich district +that I wandered on unconscious of the fatigue of the party, +roaming from rising ground to rising ground, and hoping from each +eminence to gain a view of high land to the eastward, but on all +sides I could see nothing but the same low fertile country. I +however felt conscious that within a few years of the moment at +which I stood there a British population, rich in civilization +and the means of transforming an unoccupied country to one +teeming with inhabitants and produce, would have followed my +steps and be eagerly and anxiously examining my charts; and this +reflection imparted a high degree of interest and importance to +our present position and operations.</p> + +<p>RETURN TO THE RIVER.</p> + +<p>The darkness of night was now closing round us and Kaiber the +native, with his long thin legs, put himself at the head of the +party and, taking a star for his guide, led us with rapid and +lengthy paces across the plains to the encampment, where we found +the party anxiously waiting to hear what success we had met with. +Poor Mr. Smith was very unwell tonight with a feverish attack. +Mr. Walker had prescribed for him and ordered him to be kept +quiet. I got a meridian altitude of Procyon which put us in 24 +degrees 56 minutes 57 seconds south latitude.</p> + +<p>March 6. Mr. Smith was if anything worse this morning, and I +learned from some of the men that he had been wandering about all +night, and had bathed several times in the river. I remonstrated +with him about having done so, but he excused himself, and I +determined to remain stationary at this point for a day or two to +give him plenty of rest before we again started on our cruise +along the coast.</p> + +<p>PLAN OF FUTURE PROCEEDINGS.</p> + +<p>After the discovery of the Gascoyne the plan I made up my mind +to follow was to examine rapidly the coast as far as Cape Cuvier, +to return from that point to Bernier Island and refit; then once +more to visit the Gascoyne properly equipped, and thoroughly +explore the adjacent district to the distance of fifty or sixty +miles inland; and lastly to examine the unknown portion of Shark +Bay which lay to the southward of us.</p> + +<p>At 6 A.M. the thermometer stood at 76 degrees Fahrenheit in +the shade, and this and the temperature during our stay in Shark +Bay proves that the climate there is very warm. Before breakfast +I had wells sunk in several places at some little distance inland +in order to ascertain the nature of the subsoil, for we were +abundantly supplied with water from the lagoons. In every +instance, after digging down to the depth of from six to seven +feet through a rich loam, we reached a regular sandy sea beach +and salt water (it must however be recollected that we dug in the +deepest hollows) so that it appeared as if the whole of this flat +country was a formation left upon the shoals with which the coast +is bounded; and it almost seemed as if the sea still flowed in +upon its old bed and under this recent freshwater deposit.</p> + +<p>Directly after breakfast I got ferried across the river to the +island lying between its two mouths, which I called Babbage +Island after C. Babbage, Esquire. This island is low and sandy in +all parts except where it fronts the sea; but on that side a row +of high sandy dunes have been thrown up. There is no very good +land on it, it being almost covered with samphire swamps and +intersected by deep channels into which the sea runs; these are +nearly concealed in some places by the vegetation, which rendered +it impossible to avoid sundry falls and wettings in crossing it. +It bears a few mangroves but I saw no other trees.</p> + +<p>The men throughout the day were occupied in watering and in +making canvas cloths for my boats to prevent the water from +pouring in over the gunwales, which were very low; and my own +time was sufficiently occupied in surveying. On my return in the +evening I found Mr. Smith so much wore cheerful and so much +better that I determined to start about noon the next day for the +northward.</p> + +<p>EXCURSION TO THE NORTH OF THE RIVER.</p> + +<p>March 7.</p> + +<p>I went off with a party before dawn to explore the country to +the northward of the Gascoyne. We crossed the river just above +the point where it separates into two mouths, and then struck off +in a north by east direction. Travelling about a mile after we +had crossed the river we came to seven native huts, built of +large-sized logs, much higher and altogether of a very superior +description to those made by the natives on the south-western +coast. Kaiber examined them very carefully and then proposed that +we should go no farther, as he thought that the natives must be +very large men from their having such large huts. We however +pushed forward and, as I had none but good walkers with me, we +made about nine miles in two hours and a half: throughout the +whole of this distance we saw nothing that could be called a +hill, the whole country being evidently at times flooded up to +the foot of a gently-rising land which we distinguished to the +eastward. We did not notice a single tree but plenty of low +prickly bushes, samphire, and a small plant somewhat resembling +the English heath. The weather was very hot, and at the end of +the nine miles we reached a saltwater inlet so broad and deep +that we could not cross it. We here halted and rested a little +and then made our way back to the boats.</p> + +<p>APPROACH OF NATIVES.</p> + +<p>I found Mr. Smith much better and, there being now nothing to +delay us, we started. When we had got about half a mile down the +river we saw two natives following us along the shore, jumping +about in the most extraordinary way, and, from their +gesticulations and manner, evidently ordering us to quit the +coast. From the mountebank actions of these fellows I guessed +that they were two of the native sorcerers, who were charming us +away but, as I was not disposed to be so easily got rid of, we +pulled near the shore and lay upon our oars to give them an +opportunity of coming up to us.</p> + +<p>ATTEMPT AT A CONFERENCE. INTERVIEW WITH NATIVES.</p> + +<p>Upon this they mounted a little eminence, blew most furiously +at us, and performed other equally efficacious ceremonies. I +however felt just as well after we had been subjected to this +dire sorcery as I did before; and we continued to pull gently +along the shore, still trying to induce them to approach, which +they at last did, having nothing but a fishing-spear in their +hands. To entice them towards us I had made Kaiber strip himself +and stand up in the boat; and now that they were near enough to +us I told him to call out to them and say that we were friends. +He hereupon shouted out, "Come in, come in; Mr. Grey sulky +yu-a-da;" by which he intended to say, "Come here, come here; Mr. +Grey is not angry with you." The two sorcerers, utterly confused +by this mode of address, committed more overt acts of witchcraft +towards us than they had even hitherto done; and Kaiber, turning +round to me, said, "Weak ears have they and wooden foreheads; +they do not understand the southern language." But as I was +dissatisfied with his proof of their knowledge of the southern +language I desired him to wade ashore and speak to them.</p> + +<p>KAIBER'S DREAD OF THEM.</p> + +<p>This order of mine was a perfect thunderbolt to Kaiber. He, in +common with all the aboriginal inhabitants of Australia, had an +utter aversion to all strange natives; and to this he joined a +sort of religious horror of witches, buck-witches, warlocks, and +uncanny persons generally. King James the First could never have +found a more zealous and participating partner of his fears than +Kaiber; he gave me a blank look of horror and assured me that +these were actual sorcerers, "northern sorcerers;" and as he +repeated these last words there was a mysterious, deep meaning in +his tone, as if he expected to see me thrill with terror.</p> + +<p>From his earliest infancy he had been accustomed to dread +these men; every storm that occurred he had been taught to +consider as arising from their incantations: if one of his +friends or relatives died a natural death he had attributed that +death to the spells and unholy practices of these very people +with whom he was now directed to go and hold converse. I thought +of all this and pitied him; for even for a native he was +excessively superstitious. But I was extremely anxious to +establish friendly relations with them; therefore I was positive +and repeated to him my former directions that he should wade +ashore, coax them up, and speak to them.</p> + +<p>In as far as a native can turn white from fear Kaiber did turn +white, and then stepping into the water he waded ashore and the +two natives cautiously approached him. As soon as they were close +to him I joined the party with a large piece of damper in one +hand and a piece of pork in the other. The natives were +dreadfully frightened; they stood in the presence of unknown and +mysterious beings. No persuasions could induce them to take my +hand or to touch me; and they trembled from head to foot.</p> + +<p>FRIENDLY COMMUNICATION ESTABLISHED.</p> + +<p>For a time they were nearly unintelligible to Kaiber and +myself, but as they gained confidence I found that they spoke a +dialect very closely resembling that of the natives to the north +of the Swan River. They addressed many questions to us, such as, +Whence we had come? where we were going to? was the boat a dead +tree? but they evaded giving any direct answers to our questions. +Being anxious to start I now left them to bear to their +companions the strange food I had bestowed, and to recount to +eager listeners the mysterious tale of their interview with +beings from another world, and who were of an unknown form and +colour.</p> + +<p>SAIL FROM THE GASCOYNE.</p> + +<p>Whilst they hurried off with some such thoughts passing +through their minds we pulled down the Gascoyne in search of new +lands and new adventures.</p> + +<p>AFFINITY OF DIALECTS.</p> + +<p>The result of this conference affords an example of the +grounds upon which any similarity of the language in different +portions of the continent of Australia has been denied. In this +instance, had I at first taken the word of Kaiber for it, I +should have left the Gascoyne with a firm conviction that the +natives of that part of Australia spoke a radically different +language from the natives near the Swan River; and this would +have been proved by the fact of a native from the south not +understanding them: whereas there is a great affinity between the +two dialects, to discover which requires however an acquaintance +with the general principles of language, some knowledge of the +one in question, and due patience. I can only say that wherever I +have been in the southern portions of the continent I could soon +understand the natives.</p> + +<p><a name="chapter16"></a></p> + +<h2>CHAPTER 16. TO KOLAINA AND BACK TO THE GASCOYNE.</h2> + +<p>EXAMINE THE COAST TO THE NORTH OF THE GASCOYNE.</p> + +<p>March 7.</p> + +<p>When we got outside the mouth of the Gascoyne a fresh breeze +was blowing from the south-east. We ran along the shore west by +north, keeping about a quarter of a mile from it; and after +having made about three miles and a half we reached the southern +extremity of the other mouth of the river. The mean depth in our +course along Babbage Island had been from two and a half fathoms +to three fathoms; and this opening had a bar which we then +conceived to run right across the mouth of the river. The +northern extremity of Babbage Island is a very remarkable low +point of land which I called Mangrove Point. It cannot fail to be +recognised for it is the first point from the northward along the +eastern shores of Shark Bay where mangroves are found, and from +that point they extend almost uninterruptedly down the eastern +coast of this bay to the south, as far as I have seen it.</p> + +<p>CONTINUE THE COURSE TO THE NORTHWARD.</p> + +<p>The coast now trended north by west and we continued to run +along it. After passing Mangrove Point the sandy dunes along the +shore ceased, and the land appeared to be scarcely elevated above +the level of the sea: not a hill or tree could be perceived, and +a low black line almost level with the water's edge was the only +indication that we had of being near land.</p> + +<p>LYELL'S RANGE.</p> + +<p>This kind of shore continues for about nine miles, when low +sandhills begin to rise parallel to the coast, and these +gradually increase in altitude until they form that remarkable +range of dunes which I have called Lyell's Range. When it wanted +about an hour to sunset we had made about twenty-five miles, and +then ran in closer along the coast to look either for a boat +harbour or some spot at which we could beach them. But nothing +suited to our purpose could we see: the coast was straight, +sandy, exposed and lashed by a tremendous surf; the wind now +freshened considerably and the sky looked very threatening; we +had therefore no resource left but either to run to the northward +before the breeze or to beach the boats. I chose the first +alternative; and we coasted within about a quarter of a mile of +the shore, just outside the surf, looking out for any spot which +gave us the least hope of beaching in safety.</p> + +<p>BEACH THE BOATS.</p> + +<p>As the sun sank so freshened the breeze, until it blew a good +half gale of wind, and everything gave indications of approaching +foul weather. This was no coast to be on during a stormy night in +heavily laden whale-boats; and as it now began to grow dark I +determined at all hazards to beach rather than be driven out to +sea in a gale of wind. I accordingly ran my boat in through the +surf, leaving the other one outside to see what success we had +before they made the attempt.</p> + +<p>BOAT SWAMPED IN BEACHING.</p> + +<p>The surf was very heavy but the men behaved steadily and well; +and through it we went, dancing along like a cork in a mill-pond; +at last one huge roller caught us, all hands gave way, and we +were hurried along on the top of the swelling billow, which then +suddenly fell under us and broke; in a moment after we had +grounded, and although still upwards of two hundred yards from +the shore, we all jumped out to haul the boat up, but ere we +could move our heavily laden whaler beyond a few yards breaker +after breaker came tumbling in and completely swamped it. We +continued to haul away and presently found ourselves swimming. In +fact the whole coast hereabouts was fronted by a kind of bar of +sand, distant about two hundred yards from the shore, with not +more than two feet water on it. Between this and the shore the +water was tolerably smooth and two fathoms deep. It was upon this +outer bar that we had struck, and the other boat experienced the +same fate as ourselves. We of course passed a miserable night in +our drenched and wretched state; but it was at all events some +comfort, when we heard during the night the boisterous wind +blowing outside, to feel that we were safe ashore.</p> + +<p>DAMAGE TO OUR PROVISIONS.</p> + +<p>March 8.</p> + +<p>As soon as we had sufficient light for the purpose I proceeded +to examine the stores. The flour was not very good at starting; +it had been packed in small bags, that being the most convenient +form to have it in both for stowing and transporting it on men's +shoulders; and in the hurricane which we had experienced on Dorre +Island this flour had got thoroughly soaked: from that period to +the present time it had been constantly wet with salt water; last +night's adventures completed its disasters and it was now quite +spoilt and an unwholesome article of food; but having nothing +else to eat we were forced to satisfy ourselves with it, and I +directed it to be dried in the sun and then carefully repacked. +The wind was from the south-south-west, about half a gale, and +there was such a tremendous surf on the shore that to launch the +boats was impossible. I therefore started to look for water and +to explore the country.</p> + +<p>SEARCH FOR WATER.</p> + +<p>The point we had landed at was immediately at the base of some +bare sandhills, about four hundred feet high. These are the hills +which are visible from the high land of Dorre Island on the +opposite side of the bay: it struck me that from their great +height and their porous nature there was a probability of our +finding water by digging, even in this apparently sandy desert; I +therefore selected a spot at the foot of the highest hill, in the +bare sand, and ordered a well to be opened. Our efforts were +crowned with success; the well had not been sunk more than four +or five feet when we came to a coarse gravelly sand, saturated +with water, which was perfectly sweet and good; and when the well +was sunk about two or three feet deeper the water poured in so +fast that there would have been no difficulty in watering a ship +at this point.</p> + +<p>APPEARANCE OF A LAKE. EXAMINATION OF IT.</p> + +<p>Whilst the men were engaged in filling the water kegs I +ascended the highest sandhill, the summit of which was not +distant more than a mile from the well. When I gained this a most +splendid sight burst upon my view: to the westward stretched the +boundless sea, lashed by the wind into white and curling waves; +whilst to the east of me lay a clear calm unruffled lake, studded +with little islands. To the north or north-east I could, even +with a good telescope, see no limits to this lake, and, with the +exception of the numerous beautiful islands with which it was +studded, I could, even from the commanding position which I +occupied, distinguish nothing like rising land anywhere between +north by east and south-east. The lake had a glassy and +fairy-like appearance, and I sat down alone on the lofty eminence +to contemplate this great water which the eye of European now for +the first time rested on. I looked seaward, and it appeared as if +nature had heaped up the narrow and lofty sandy barrier on which +I stood to shut out from the eyes of man the lovely and +fairy-like land which lay beyond it.</p> + +<p>At length I rose and returned to the party. The news of my +discovery filled all with hope; and, our miserable breakfast +having been hurriedly despatched, I selected three men to +accompany me in my first examination of the shores of this inland +sea. When we had gained the top of the sandhills the surprise of +these men was as great as my own, and they begged me to allow +them to return and endeavour by the united efforts of the party +to carry one of the whale-boats over the intervening range, and +at once to launch it on this body of water.</p> + +<p>I however deemed it more prudent in the first instance to +select the best route along which to move the whale-boat, as well +as to choose a spot which afforded facilities for launching it. +In pursuance of this determination we descended the eastern side +of the sandhills which abruptly fell in that direction with a +slope certainly not much exceeding an angle of 45 degrees. I now +found that the water did not approach so near the foot of the +hills as I had imagined, but that immediately at their base lay +extensive plains of mud and sand, at times evidently flooded by +the sea; for on them lay dead shells of many kinds and sizes, as +well as large travelled blocks of coral. The water here appeared +to be about a mile distant; it was also apparently boundless in +an east and north-east direction: and was studded with +islands.</p> + +<p>REMARKABLE PLAINS. DELUSION FROM MIRAGE.</p> + +<p>We still all felt convinced that it was water we saw, for the +shadows of the low hills near it, as well as those of the trees +upon them, could be distinctly traced on the unruffled surface. +As we continued to advance, the water however constantly +retreated before us and at last surrounded us. I now found that +we had been deceived by mirage; the apparent islands being really +such only when these plains are covered by the sea. In many +places the sandy mud was so moist that we sank deeply into it, +and after travelling for fifteen miles on a north-east course I +could still see no limit to these plains in that direction, nor +could I either then or on any subsequent occasion find the +channel which connected them with the sea. The only mode of +accounting for their being flooded is to suppose that the sea at +times pours in over the low land which lies to the north of the +Gascoyne, and flows northward through channels which will be seen +in the chart of this part of the country; but I then believed, +and still consider, that there is hereabouts a communication with +some large internal water.</p> + +<p>We saw no tracks of natives and only a few of emus and native +dogs. The few portions of rising ground which lay near the edge +of these extensive plains were sandy, scrubby, and unpromising; +but what we saw was so little that no opinion of the country +could fairly be deduced from it. We dug in several places on the +flats and in their vicinity but all the water we could find was +salt; whereas in the narrow range of sandhills separating them +from the sea we had discovered abundance of fresh water only four +or five feet below the surface of the valleys lying between these +hills. As this range of more than thirty miles in length offered +many geological phenomena I called it Lyell's Range in compliment +to the distinguished geologist of that name; the plains +themselves I named the Plains of Kolaina (Deceit).</p> + +<p>INDISPOSITION OF SEVERAL OF THE PARTY. SICKNESS FROM DELAY AND +DISAPPOINTMENT.</p> + +<p>On my return to the boats I found that Mr. Smith was still +unwell; several other men were also complaining; I myself was +wearied from exertion and disappointment that my great discovery +had dwindled away: the place where we were was infested by +land-crabs who kept running over us continually, and the sand +which drifted before the wind got into the pores of the skin, and +kept most of us in a constant state of painful irritation. The +night was therefore not a pleasant one.</p> + +<p>March 9.</p> + +<p>Throughout the night the winds had howled loudly and the surf +broke hoarsely upon the shore. The grey dawn of morning brought +no comfort with it: far out to seaward nothing but broken water +could be seen, and half a gale of wind blew from the south by +east. The bad and insufficient food I had been compelled to eat +had brought on violent sickness and other evil effects, and I +found myself very ill. As the daylight advanced report after +report came to me that some one of the party had been attacked by +the same diseases experienced by Mr. Smith and myself.</p> + +<p>EXAMINATION OF THE SHORE TO THE NORTHWARD, AND OF THE COUNTRY +TO THE SOUTH-EAST.</p> + +<p>I was only well enough to write and survey a little, but I +sent off a party to a point which lay about six miles to the +north of us, and they on their return reported that there was a +continuation of a similar shore for the next fourteen or fifteen +miles, bordered in like manner by sandy muddy plains similar to +those behind the hills where we were.</p> + +<p>This party found one of the yellow and black water-snakes +asleep upon a piece of dry seaweed on the beach and killed it. +The fact of this animal being found on shore proves its +amphibious character. I saw them in one instance, in December +1837, so far out at sea as to be distant 150 miles from land.</p> + +<p>Sunday March 10.</p> + +<p>I spent a wretched night from illness and foul weather; the +roaring of the surf on the shore was so loud and incessant that +to one feverish and in want of quiet and rest it was a positive +distress, and both Mr. Smith, myself, and half the men were at +this time seriously indisposed. We had strong gales of wind all +day from south by east, but in the afternoon I walked out for +five miles in an east-south-east direction with such of the men +as were able to move; nothing however could be seen but a +continuation of the same barren, treeless country; we observed no +signs of natives except tracks in the mud of a single man who had +passed some months ago.</p> + +<p>It annoyed me now to find that the silvering of the glasses of +my large sextant was so much injured from the constant wettings +it had experienced that this day it was almost useless. I had +hoped in the course of our walk to have fallen in with some game, +but we did not see a single bird with the exception of some small +ones, about the size of tomtits, which flew from bush to bush +along the sandhills.</p> + +<p>SUFFERINGS FROM HEAT AND PRIVATION.</p> + +<p>We had a small quantity of portable soup with us, nearly all +of which we used, and it in some degree restored us, but another +miserable night was passed by us all and in the morning I was +grieved to see how ill many of the men looked. Their situation +was really deplorable and I had with me neither medicines nor +proper food to give them. Abundance of these lay at our depot not +more than forty miles from us, yet to reach it was impossible; +and dawn this morning had only revealed to us a heavier surf and +stronger gale from the southward than we had yet experienced. +None of the men were well enough to undergo the fatigue of +another day's walking, so I busied myself with making +observations and taking bearings, and thus the forenoon wore +away. The point of the coast on which we were lay in 24 degrees +30 minutes south latitude, and the mean temperature up to this +period had been:</p> + +<p>6 A.M. 76.<br> +12 M. 83.<br> +3 P.M. 87.<br> +6 P.M. 78 degrees.</p> + +<p>At noon a portion of some disgusting damper and a small piece +of pork was served out to each of us and, having soon disposed of +this, the men lay down under the side of the boats, seeking some +shelter from the burning rays of a tropical sun which, being +reflected back from the white sand, were very oppressive.</p> + +<p>AFFRAY WITH THE NATIVES.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="grey1-24"></a><img alt="" src="images/grey1-24.jpg"></p> + +<p><b>21. Attack of Natives near Kolaina Plains. Drawn on stone +by George Barnard from a sketch by Frederick C. Smith, Esquire. +M. and N. Hanhart, Lithographic Printers, 64 Charlotte Street, +Rathbone Place.</b></p> +</center> + +<p>I was occupied in sketching in a portion of the coastline, and +whilst thus engaged I thought I saw the figures of two natives +moving upon a hill a few hundred yards to the north of us; they +appeared to me to be behind some low bushes which were close to +the summit of this hill. I watched the bushes narrowly and felt +nearly confident I saw them; but however to be sure beyond a +doubt I got up and took my eyes from the spot for a few seconds +whilst I walked to get my telescope. I then carefully examined +the hill with the glass and could see nothing but the low bushes +on it. "A pretty bushman I am," I thought to myself, "to be thus +deceived with two old shrubs; I should have known a native +better;" and with a feeling almost of annoyance at my mistake I +resumed my seat on an inverted water-keg and went on with my +drawing. Within a minute's time an alarm of natives was given, +and starting up I saw from twenty to thirty on some sandhills to +the north of us, distant about two hundred yards; their spears +were fixed in their throwing-sticks and they evidently were +prepared for a fray. I therefore ran to the boat for my gun, +which Ruston tried to get out for me; and at this moment, on +casting my eyes upwards, I saw a native start up on the sandbank +not more than fifteen yards from Ruston and myself; he poised his +spear for one second, and it then came whistling at us. I dodged +and the spear flew past without my seeing what became of it. I +instantly gave the order to watch the bank and to fire at +anything that showed itself above it; and Mr. Walker now had got +hold of his gun and very gallantly ran up the bank and occupied +it: in the meantime the native who had thrown the spear caught up +a bag in each hand and ran off. Several shots which were fired at +the distant natives scraped up the sand so near them that they +found it prudent to decamp as speedily as they could.</p> + +<p>CHASE AFTER STOLEN GOODS.</p> + +<p>I found that Ruston was wounded slightly in the knee by the +spear which the native had thrown, and we had also sustained a +severe loss in the bags which they had carried off as one of them +contained fourteen fishing-lines and several other articles of +great value to us in our present position. I therefore determined +upon a pursuit in the hopes of recovering these, and taking four +or five men I gave chase. The long-legged natives had however +considerably the advantage of us both in bottom, wind, and +cunning; and whenever they found we gained at all upon them they +strewed a few articles out of the bags upon the ground, and these +it took us some time to collect; and in this manner, alternately +running and stopping to pick things up, I continued the pursuit +until near sunset. At this time three of us had completely outrun +the rest of our party, who were far behind; the natives had also +latterly made great headway, so that they were rapidly dropping +us astern; we also had recovered everything but the fishing-lines +(which however we could but ill spare). I therefore determined to +collect my forces and return to the boats. In the ardour of +pursuit I found we had come five or six miles, and it had been +for some time dark when we again reached the encampment.</p> + +<p>The natives in this attack were far too few in number to +render it a very formidable affair for from five-and-twenty to +thirty savages, armed alone with spears, could have availed very +little against eleven resolute Europeans with fire-arms in their +hands. The native who had stolen so near us was however most +decidedly a noble and daring fellow: their object evidently was +to possess themselves of our property; and we had had one man +wounded in the fray, and had lost some fishing-lines, without +gaining any reparation. I therefore felt well assured that they +would pay us another visit; and thus, to the misfortunes we were +already suffering under, we had the new one added of being on +hostile terms with the surrounding aborigines. It moreover set in +to rain hard and to blow fresher than ever just as we reached the +boats. I saw that all that could be done for Ruston had been +attended to, and then, lying down, tried to forget my troubles in +sleep.</p> + +<p>CONTINUED DETENTION FROM FOUL WEATHER. DESOLATE AND GLOOMY +SITUATION.</p> + +<p>From this period up to Friday the 15th of March the wind blew +strong from the southward, accompanied with such a heavy sea and +tremendous surf that to move was impossible. Our position was +very trying; inactivity, under the circumstances in which we were +situated, was most difficult to support; for the mind, ever prone +to prey upon itself, does so far more when you are compelled to +sit down and patiently submit to misfortunes against which there +are no means of resistance. Such was the state to which we were +now reduced, on a barren and unknown coast which the foot of +civilized man had never before trodden: many of my party were +suffering acute bodily pain from the badness of the provisions on +which they were compelled to subsist; the weakness of most of +them, and myself amongst the number, precluded the possibility of +any distant explorations being made, and we were kept in a +constant state of watchfulness in order to prevent the natives +from again surprising us; for they repeatedly showed themselves +in our vicinity, hovering about with no friendly intentions. All +that was left therefore for us was to sit upon the lonely beach, +watching the winds and the waters until some favourable moment +might enable us to get off and once more engage in that task of +which so small a portion was as yet accomplished.</p> + +<p>Day after day did we sit and wait for this favourable moment +until the noise of the hoarse breaking surf had become a familiar +sound to our ears; but the longer the men watched the more +dispirited did they become; each returning day found them more +weak and wan, more gloomy and petulant, than the preceding one; +and when the eighth day of constant and fruitless expectation +slowly closed upon us I felt a gloomy foreboding creeping over +me.</p> + +<p>By making observations, drawing, writing up my journal, etc. I +had managed hitherto to keep my mind employed. I had also tasked +my ability to the utmost to constantly invent some occupation for +the men, but my resources of this nature were now all exhausted; +and on Friday night I stretched myself on the sand, not to sleep, +but to brood, throughout the weary night, on our present +position.</p> + +<p>CONSOLATIONS OF RELIGION.</p> + +<p>It may be asked if, during such a trying period, I did not +seek from religion that consolation which it is sure to afford? +My answer is, Yes; and I farther feel assured that, but for the +support I derived from prayer and frequent perusal and meditation +of the Scriptures, I should never have been able to have borne +myself in such a manner as to have maintained discipline and +confidence amongst the rest of the party: nor in all my +sufferings did I ever lose the consolation derived from a firm +reliance upon the goodness of Providence. It is only those who go +forth into perils and dangers, amidst which human foresight and +strength can but little avail, and who find themselves, day after +day, protected by an unseen influence, and ever and again +snatched from the very jaws of destruction by a power which is +not of this world, who can at all estimate the knowledge of one's +own weakness and littleness, and the firm reliance and trust upon +the goodness of the Creator which the human breast is capable of +feeling. Like all other lessons which are of great and lasting +benefit to man this one must be learnt amid much sorrowing and +woe; but, having learnt it, it is but the sweeter from the pain +and toil which are undergone in the acquisition.</p> + +<p>PUT TO SEA.</p> + +<p>March 16.</p> + +<p>A great portion of Friday night was passed by me in walking up +and down the beach, anxiously looking out seaward; and it +appeared to me about three o'clock that the wind had much abated; +from this period until dawn it continued gradually to subside: +and as daylight stole in I saw that the surf had somewhat fallen. +I resolved at all events to lose no single chance that offered +itself in our favour, so I turned all hands out, and in a few +minutes the boats rode triumphantly beyond the surf, which was +indeed much heavier than I expected to have found it, and my boat +was nearly filled in passing the outer bar: but now the surf was +behind us, and it is the nature of man to laugh at perils that +are past. Our thoughts too were soon called to present +difficulties, for a tremendous sea was running outside, the wind +directly in our teeth, and every moment freshening again. +Throughout the whole of Saturday the men toiled incessantly at +their oars, and when it wanted about an hour to sunset we had +only made about seven miles and a half of southing.</p> + +<p>COMPELLED AGAIN TO BEACH THE BOATS.</p> + +<p>The wind had again increased to such a degree as to endanger +our safety, and it appeared to freshen as the night came on. I +therefore had no resource left but again to beach the boats on +this dangerous coast. Once more, then, was the scene repeated of +dancing in a boat with maddening speed upon furious rollers, +until these break and it is borne in, followed by a mass of foam +far higher than the stern, which appears eagerly to pursue for +the purpose of engulfing it.</p> + +<p>BEACHING BOATS.</p> + +<p>There is no scene in nature more exciting or which in a +greater degree calls forth one's energy than the beaching of a +boat in a dangerous surf. Never did I on such occasions take the +steer-oar for the purpose of running the boat in but many +contending feelings rushed through my mind, and after a few +moments settled down into the calm which springs from the +conviction that the general safety in coming dangers depends +altogether upon the coolness and resolution with which they are +met, and never more so than in beaching a boat when once you are +among the foaming waters; in you must go; to retreat is +impossible, and nothing is left but that each one silently and +steadily do his duty, regardless of the strife and din of raging +waves around. The only plan to adopt is for all to give way +strongly and steadily, let what will take place, whilst the +boat-steerer keeps her head straight for the beach. A huge roller +breaks right into the boat and almost swamps it, a man is knocked +over and loses his oar, heed not these things; let each man mind +his own oar and nought else, and give way give way strongly, +until the boat grounds, then in a moment each quits his oar and +springs into the water, and ere the wave has retired the boat is +partially run up; another wave succeeds, and the operation of +running up is repeated until she is high and dry. Had our boats +been swamped in the surf, even if we had escaped with our lives, +our position would have been fearful; left without food or +resources in an unknown and savage country so far beyond the +reach of man's assistance. When therefore I again saw the boats +safely beached, and my little party drying themselves over a +fire, my breast filled with thankfulness to that Providence who +had again watched over our safety.</p> + +<p>ADJACENT COUNTRY EXPLORED.</p> + +<p>Sunday March 17.</p> + +<p>It blew half a gale of wind from the southward all night, and +next morning such a surf was breaking upon the beach that to have +attempted to move would have been madness. Here we were therefore +once more kept prisoners upon this dreary coast; the country was +exactly similar to that lying immediately to the north of it, +with these two exceptions, that the range of sandhills was less +elevated, and that we could not here find fresh water. The +morning was passed in searching for it; in the middle of the day +I read a few appropriate chapters in the Bible to the men, and in +the afternoon I explored the country but discovered nothing +whatever of an interesting nature.</p> + +<p>LAUNCH THE BOATS, AND ENTER NORTHERN MOUTH OF THE GASCOYNE. +CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY.</p> + +<p>March 18.</p> + +<p>The wind was much lighter this morning and the surf not so +heavy; we made a successful attempt to launch the boats just +before sunrise. The wind still blew from the southward, and we +found a heavy sea running outside. The men however exerted all +their energies and just before sunset we reached the northern +mouth of the Gascoyne, and found a very good passage into it with +twelve feet water at low ebb-tide; but the other boat, not +following our track, stuck fast on a sandbank, where she was soon +left high and dry, and the tide fell so fast that we had a great +deal of trouble in getting her afloat again.</p> + +<p>BABBAGE ISLAND.</p> + +<p>The bar once passed there are three and three and a half +fathoms in this land-locked creek even at low water; the portion +of Babbage Island which is between it and the sea appears to be +nothing but a shifting bed of sand, and the mainland a delta, +covered with mangrove swamps and brackish lagoons, at least for +about a mile back.* We lay down upon the sand close to the boats, +which were left at anchor with a boat-keeper in each, and found +great difficulty in collecting driftwood enough to make our +fires.</p> + +<blockquote>(*Footnote. In the year 1667 the Dutch Commodore +Vlaming appears to have visited these coasts and to have ascended +a river which might have been the Gascoyne. The account of his +exploration is thus briefly given by Flinders (Terra Australis +volume 1 Introduction page 61) After relating the arrival of his +two ships off Cape Inscription at the north end of Dirk Hartog's +Island he proceeds:<br> + No mention is made by Valentyn of the ships entering the road, +nor of their departure from it; but it should seem that they +anchored on February 4th. On the 5th Commodore Vlaming and the +commander of the Nyptang went with three boats to the shore, +which proved to be an island. They found also a river, and went +up it four or five leagues, amongst rocks and shoals, when they +saw much water inland, as if the country were drowned, but no +men, nor anything for food, and wherever they dug the ground was +salt. They afterwards came to another river, which they ascended +about a league, and found it to terminate in a round basin, and +to be entirely salt water. No men were seen, nor any animals, +except divers, which were very shy; and the country was destitute +of grass and trees. Returning downward on the 10th, they saw +footsteps of men and children of the common size, and observed +the point of entrance into the river to be a very red +sand.)</blockquote> + +<p>March 19.</p> + +<p>The wind still blew pretty fresh from the southward; we +however had no surf to impede us and therefore got under weigh +soon after dawn. The men pulled away cheerfully and, although +this was very hard work on account of the headwind and sea, we +experienced no great difficulty until we had rounded Point +Whitmore, at the north of Babbage Island, where we all at once +found ourselves in broken water, so very shoal that between each +breaker the boat was bumped with great violence against the +bottom, and must have been very soon stove in had we not speedily +got into deeper soundings.</p> + +<p>ANCHOR IN SOUTHERN ENTRANCE OF THE RIVER.</p> + +<p>About 2 P.M. we neared the southern mouth of the Gascoyne, +pulled two miles up it, and anchored about a mile and a half to +the south of our former position. The men, although it was very +warm and they had been pulling hard all day, had as yet only had +about a wine-glass full of water each, I therefore lost no time +in sending off a watering party; and the remainder of us +collected samphire which grew abundantly hereabouts and forms a +fair article of food for hungry men.</p> + +<p>The remainder of the evening was occupied in completing our +water and in endeavouring to get a shot at some pelicans, but +although numerous they were too wary, and my feet were covered +with such dreadful sores from bad diet and being constantly in +the salt water that I could not walk to any great distance in +search of game.</p> + +<p>COMPLETE OUR WATER.</p> + +<p>The completion of our supply of water was a very great matter +and, as we had now got so far to the southward as to make our +fetching the northern extremity of Bernier Island almost a matter +of certainty, however strongly it might blow, I determined to +effect the passage the next day. Indeed I could not have delayed +it for our provisions, bad as they were, were almost exhausted, +and the men were already much reduced from the scarcity and bad +quality of their food.</p> + +<p><a name="chapter17"></a></p> + +<h2>CHAPTER 17. FROM THE GASCOYNE TO GANTHEAUME BAY.</h2> + +<p>SAIL FROM THE GASCOYNE.</p> + +<p>March 20.</p> + +<p>When we pulled out of the Gascoyne this morning the first +streak of dawn had not lit up the eastern horizon, we however +managed by creeping along the southern shore to get out to sea, +and there anchored until it was light enough to see the compass. +I found a very heavy sea running outside and a strong breeze +blowing from the southward; at this time however there was +nothing which in my opinion rendered it too hazardous to risk the +passage, more especially being pressed as we were by the want of +food. The distance across to Bernier Island from the point of the +main where we were was about ten miles further than it is from +Dover to Calais. Our boats were in very bad repair, and the +landing on the other side was by no means good. I therefore +certainly would not have ventured to make the passage in a gale +of wind; but the weather did not seem threatening and it had been +for many successive days blowing as hard as it was when we +started.</p> + +<p>CAUGHT IN A GALE OF WIND.</p> + +<p>We might have gone nine or ten miles when the wind suddenly +increased, and ere we had made five more it had become a perfect +gale and we were obliged to keep the boats close hauled, for had +we run ever so little before the wind we should not have fetched +Bernier Island, and consequently should have been blown right out +to sea. We had nothing therefore now to do but to struggle for +it, and to use every energy to save ourselves. Sea after sea +broke into the boat but the water was as rapidly baled out: none +could have behaved better than the crews of both boats did, and +the whole scene was one of such constant, cheerful, and +successful exertion that, great as our danger was, I do not +recollect ever having a keener perception of the pleasure of +excited feelings, or a more thorough revelry of joyous emotions, +than I had during this perilous passage.</p> + +<p>REACH BERNIER ISLAND.</p> + +<p>Bernier Island at last rose in sight and amidst the giant +waves we occasionally caught a peep of its rocky shores; but we +were so tossed to and fro that it was only now and then that from +the summit of some lofty sea we could sight a high shore which +was not more than four or five miles from us. We had made the +island about five miles from its northern extremity, and I ran +along the shore until I found a convenient landing-place about a +mile and a half to the south of our old one.</p> + +<p>CHANGE IN THE LAND.</p> + +<p>It was perfectly sheltered by reefs and an island, but it +surprised me that I had not remarked this cove on my previous +visit to the island, and I was still further astonished to see +now three new small rocky islands, of which I had no recollection +whatever. Indeed the men all for a long time stoutly denied that +this was Bernier Island and, had we not now sighted Kok's Island, +I should have doubted my skill in navigation and made up my mind +that I had fallen into some strange error; but as it was +forebodings shot across my wind as to what pranks the hurricane +might have been playing upon the island, which consisted of +nothing but loose sand heaped upon a bed of limestone rock of +very unequal elevation.</p> + +<p>I ran in my own boat upon a convenient point of the beach and +the other boat followed in safety, for I did not like, in such +foul weather, to leave them at anchor on a lee shore, which had +previously proved so unsafe a position. A most awkward question +now presented itself to my consideration: from the altered +appearance of the coast I felt very considerable doubts as to the +state in which the depot might be found; supposing anything had +occurred to it I felt that it would be unadvisable that such a +discovery should be made in the presence of many persons; as +future discipline would in a great measure depend upon the first +impression that was given. Who, then, had I better select for the +purpose of visiting the depot in the first instance? After some +deliberation I made choice of Mr. Smith and Corporal Coles, in +the courage, disinterestedness, and self-possession of both of +whom I placed great confidence. I directed Mr. Walker to see +certain little alterations made in the boats before the men were +allowed to straggle; these I knew would occupy them for some time +and leave me therefore during this interval free to think and act +according to circumstances. I now called Mr. Smith and Corporal +Coles to accompany me, and told Coles to bring a spade with +him.</p> + +<p>DESTRUCTION OF THE DEPOT OF PROVISIONS. SYMPTOMS OF +CALAMITY.</p> + +<p>Before we had gone very far alarming symptoms met my eyes in +the form of staves of flour casks scattered about amongst the +rocks, and even high up on the sandhills. Coles however persisted +that these wore so far inland that they could only have come from +the flour casks which we had emptied before starting. I knew they +were far too numerous for such to be the case, but I suppressed +my opinion and made no remarks. We next came to a cask of salt +provisions, washed high and dry at least twenty feet above the +usual high-water mark: the sea had evidently not been near this +for a long period as it was half covered with drift sand which +must have taken some time to accumulate. This Coles easily +accounted for, it was merely the cask which had been lost from +the wreck of the Paul Pry. I still thought otherwise but said +nothing.</p> + +<p>At length we reached the spot where the depot had been made: +so changed was it that both Mr. Smith and Coles persisted it was +not the place; but on going to the shore there were some very +remarkable rocks, on the top of which lay a flour cask more than +half empty, with the head knocked out, but not otherwise injured; +this also was washed up at least twenty feet of perpendicular +elevation beyond high water mark. The dreadful certainty now +flashed upon the minds of Mr. Smith and Coles, and I waited to +see what effect it would have upon them. Coles did not bear the +surprise so well as I had expected; he dashed the spade upon the +ground with almost ferocious violence, and looking up to me he +said, "All lost, Sir! we are all lost, Sir!" Mr. Smith stood +utterly calm and unmoved; I had not calculated wrongly upon his +courage and firmness. His answer to Coles was, "Nonsense, Coles, +we shall do very well yet; why, there is a cask of salt +provisions and half a cask of flour still left."</p> + +<p>I now rallied Coles upon his conduct; compared it with that of +Mr. Smith, and told him that when I had taken him on to the depot +in preference to the other men it had been in the expectation +that, if any disaster had happened, he would, by his coolness and +courage, have given such an example as would have exercised a +salutary influence upon the others. This had the desired effect +upon him; he became perfectly cool and collected and promised to +make light of the misfortune to the rest, and to observe the +strictest discipline. I then requested Mr. Smith to see the +little flour that was left in the barrel and on the rocks +carefully collected by Coles, and, leaving them thus engaged, I +turned back along the sea shore towards the party; glad of the +opportunity of being alone as I could now commune freely with my +own thoughts.</p> + +<p>ALARMING POSITION AND PROSPECTS. REPAIR DAMAGES, AND RETURN TO +THE MAIN.</p> + +<p>The safety of the whole party now depended upon my forming a +prompt and efficient plan of operations, and seeing it carried +out with energy and perseverance. As soon as I was out of sight +of Mr. Smith and Coles I sat down upon a rock on the shore to +reflect upon our present position. The view seawards was +discouraging; the gale blew fiercely in my face and the spray of +the breakers was dashed over me; nothing could be more gloomy and +drear. I turned inland and could see only a bed of rock, covered +with drifting sand, on which grew a stunted vegetation, and +former experience had taught me that we could not hope to find +water in this island; our position here was therefore untenable, +and but three plans presented themselves to me: first, to leave a +notice of my intentions on the island, then to make for some +known point on the main and there endeavour to subsist ourselves +until we should be found and taken off by the Colonial schooner; +secondly, to start for Timor or Port Essington; thirdly, to try +to make Swan River in the boats.</p> + +<p>CONSOLATIONS OF RELIGION.</p> + +<p>I determined not to decide hastily between these plans and, in +order more fully to compose my mind, I sat down and read a few +chapters in the Bible.</p> + +<p>By the influence these imparted I became perfectly contented +and resigned to our apparently wretched condition and, again +rising up, pursued my way along the beach to the party. It may be +here remarked by some that these statements of my attending to +religious duties are irrelevant to the subject, but in such an +opinion I cannot at all coincide. In detailing the sufferings we +underwent it is necessary to relate the means by which those +sufferings were alleviated; and after having, in the midst of +perils and misfortunes, received the greatest consolation from +religion, I should be ungrateful to my Maker not to acknowledge +this, and should ill perform my duty to my fellow men did I not +bear testimony to the fact that, under all the weightier sorrows +and sufferings that our frail nature is liable to, a perfect +reliance upon the goodness of God and the merits of our Redeemer +will be found a sure refuge and a certain source of +consolation.</p> + +<p>In pursuing my route along the beach I carefully examined +every heap of seaweed which the waves had thrown up, and was +fortunate enough to find a bag of flour which had been washed up +by the tide and held there by some rocks; though from daily +soaking in salt water for several weeks it was quite spoilt and +fermented, and smelt like beer; yet this, under present +circumstances, was more valuable than its weight in gold. Just +after I had found this bag, I met Ruston and another man coming +from the boats to the depot; I at once told them exactly how +matters stood; they bore the announcement better than I could +have hoped for, and when I showed them that their safety +altogether depended on their good conduct they promised the most +implicit obedience and a ready cheerful demeanour. I must do +Ruston the justice to say that under every trial he most +scrupulously adhered to the promise he then made, and never +infringed upon it in the slightest degree.</p> + +<p>CONDUCT OF THE MEN.</p> + +<p>When I reached the party and told the tale of the total +disappearance of all we had left at the depot blank and dismayed +faces met me on all sides. Mr. Walker and Corporal Auger set an +excellent example to the others; but two men, of the names of +Harry and Charley Woods, seized the first convenient opportunity +of walking off to the place where our miserable remnant of damper +was deposited with the intention of appropriating it to +themselves. I only waited till they actually laid their hands +upon it, when I stopped them, placed a sentry over what +provisions were left, ordered a survey of all stores to be held, +and a report to be made to me; and then went off with a party to +search the shore in the hope of finding any other things which +might have been washed up: our search however proved quite +unsuccessful.</p> + +<p>CHOICE OF PLANS.</p> + +<p>I had warned the men that at sunset I would inform them what +my intentions were with regard to our future movements; and in +the meantime all hands were employed in searching for provisions +or in preparing the boats for sea. A very gloomy prospect was +before us: the men were already much reduced from illness, from +using damaged provisions, and from hard work and exposure +combined: our boats were in a very leaky unsound state, whilst +all means of efficiently repairing them had been swept away in +the hurricane. Add to this that the only provisions we had left +really fit to eat were about nine days' salt meat, at the rate of +a pound a man per diem, and about sixty pounds of tolerably good +flour.</p> + +<p>It would be useless to detail the different reasons which +induced me to adopt the plan of endeavouring to make Swan River +in the whale boats; this was however the course I resolved to +pursue. Its principal advantages were that we should be +constantly approaching home; and that if any accident should +happen to the boats we might always hope to reach Perth by +walking: the principal objection to it was the prevalence of +strong south-east winds. At sunset the party assembled. I +detailed to them at considerable length the three most feasible +plans which had offered themselves to me, the reasons which had +made me reject two of them, as well as those which led me to +adopt the third; and as I knew that there were two or three +insubordinate characters amongst the men, whom I had picked up at +Fremantle, I further told them that, if a sufficient number to +man one of the boats objected to follow me, they could go their +own way; as the success of my scheme would altogether depend upon +the courage and subordination with which it was carried out. No +dissentient voice was however raised, but they all promised to +follow me wherever I might lead. We now made arrangements for +searching for turtle during the night, and then stretched +ourselves on the sand to try and sleep.</p> + +<p>March 21.</p> + +<p>We were unfortunate in not catching a turtle during the night; +the season for them had however now passed away, so that we could +only hope to cut off a stray one which might have lingered behind +its fellows. The next day was occupied in sticking up a steer-oar +with a tin canister attached to it, containing a letter in which +was detailed the plan I intended to follow, so that in the event +of any accident occurring, and our remaining on the coast, we +might still have the chance of a vessel being sent to search for +us. The men were occupied in looking for shellfish, drying the +flour, and preparing the boats. It blew nearly a gale of wind +from the south throughout the day.</p> + +<p>RETURN TO THE MAIN.</p> + +<p>March 22.</p> + +<p>This day at two P.M., all our preparations having been +completed and the wind somewhat moderated, we stood across the +bay, and soon after nightfall made the main about twelve miles to +the north of the northern mouth of the Gascoyne. The wind +freshened a great deal during the night; but as it was impossible +to beach boats on so dangerous a coast in the dark we were +obliged to trust to the goodness of our anchors, and they did not +disappoint us.</p> + +<p>March 23.</p> + +<p>Before dawn this morning we were under weigh and pulling dead +to windward against a strong breeze and heavy sea; the men rowed +almost without intermission until noon when, finding them +completely exhausted, I made sail and stood in towards the shore. +When we had approached the land about four miles to the north of +the Gascoyne a party of natives came down, without their spears, +in the most friendly manner, making signs to us to land. We had +however but little time to spare, and could not afford to give +them any provisions: knowing also the small dependence that can +be placed upon them in a first interview, I thought it most +prudent to decline their invitation.</p> + +<p>COMPLETE OUR WATER.</p> + +<p>We accordingly continued our route and in the course of the +evening made the river, where we completed our water, and halted +for the night. We saw nothing more of the natives here, but I +feel convinced that in the event of a settlement being formed at +this point no difficulty would be found in establishing and +maintaining the most friendly relations with them.</p> + +<p>ANCHOR TO THE NORTH OF THE GASCOYNE.</p> + +<p>March 24.</p> + +<p>The morning did not promise very well, but soon after sunrise +the wind shifted so much to the westward that we were able to run +along shore, and in the course of the day we made altogether +about forty-five miles, tracing the greater part of the remaining +unknown portion of the shores of Shark Bay. On leaving the +Gascoyne, a low point bore due south of us, distant about twelve +miles, which I named Point Greenough after George Bellas +Greenough, Esquire, the president of the Royal Geographical +Society; and between this point and the river lay a deep bay, the +shores of which were low and thickly studded with mangroves, +through which many saltwater creeks ran up into the country. Two +of these creeks I had examined on a previous occasion, and +therefore now paid no attention to them.</p> + +<p>EXAMINE THE COAST TO THE SOUTHWARD. ITS CHARACTER.</p> + +<p>After passing Point Greenough the shore trended south by east +and for the next eight miles preserved its low character, being +still thickly wooded with mangroves; but at this point a +remarkable change takes place as the mangroves suddenly cease, +and the low range of hills which extends southward along the +coast parallel to the shore increases a little in height. In +about another mile the mangroves again commence, the coast now +trending south-east; and about five miles further it runs +south-east by east, forming a bay about four miles deep, the +bottom of which is tolerably clear of mangroves.</p> + +<p>CONTINUE OUR COURSE TO THE SOUTHWARD.</p> + +<p>Having crossed this bay we ran south-east by south parallel to +the shore; the mangroves now became less continuous and numerous, +at least they appeared to us to be so, and the range of hills +seemed also to approach much nearer to the sea. We continued on +this course until sunset, when I selected a snug little bay in +the mangroves, where we anchored at the distance of a few yards +from the shore and made ourselves as comfortable as we could for +the night.</p> + +<p>CHARACTER OF THE COAST AND SEA.</p> + +<p>There was great beauty in the scenery which we saw during the +day's sail; the waters and the sky had that peculiar brilliancy +about them which is only seen in fine weather and in a tropical +climate. To the west of us lay an apparently boundless expanse of +sea, whilst to the eastward we had a low shore fringed with +trees, not only down to the water's edge but forming little green +knolls of foliage in the ocean itself; behind these trees lay low +wooded hills, and in front of them stalked and swam about +pelicans and waterfowl in countless numbers. We had only about +three feet depth of clear transparent water, through which we saw +that the flats beneath us were covered with vivid coloured shells +of many genera, some of which were of a very large size; +strange-looking fish of a variety of kinds were also sporting +about; more particularly sharks of a new species (of that kind +which I shot at in mistake for an alligator) and stingrays. +Whenever a lull occurred the men, unable to resist the chance of +getting a meal, would jump out of the boat, and give chase to one +of these sting-rays, boat-hook in hand, and then loud peals of +laughter rose from the others as the pursuer, too anxious to +attain his object, missed his stroke or, stumbling, rolled +headlong in the water. The fineness of the day, the novelty of +the scenery, and the rapid way we were making made the poor +fellows forget past dangers, as well as those they had yet to +undergo. My own meditations were of a more melancholy character, +for I feared that the days of some of the light-hearted group +were already numbered and would soon be brought to a close. +Amidst such scenes and thoughts we were swept along, whilst this +unknown coast, which so many had anxiously yet vainly wished to +see, passed before our eyes like a panorama or a dream, and, ere +many years have hurried by it is probable that the recollection +of this day will be as such to me.</p> + +<p>BOAT LEFT AGROUND BY THE TIDE.</p> + +<p>March 25.</p> + +<p>This morning I was up early in order that we might lose no +time in getting under weigh; I was much surprised however to find +both boats aground, and when the day had dawned sufficiently to +enable me to distinguish surrounding objects I could not make out +the sea, but found that we were lodged in a regular mangrove +bush. I walked a few yards to get a clear view to the westward +and found that we were at least a mile inland, so far does the +tide run in over this low level shore. My eyes were so sore that +I could scarcely see and I therefore did not attempt to make an +excursion into the country, but sent a party for this purpose, +who ascended the first low range of hills and reported that the +country as far as they could see to the eastward was a succession +of low mud flats subject to the overflowings of the sea. There +was a promising-looking creek immediately to the south of us.</p> + +<p>The tide came very slowly in until ten o'clock, which was +about the time of high-water: but here it had only half risen and +remained stationary for some time, when it began to ebb again, +but soon meeting the second flood, now came pouring rapidly in, +and just before sunset there was water enough for us to get off. +We pulled to a low point, distant about two miles, and which bore +south by east from us; and having anchored off this waited for +the morning dawn to pursue our voyage.</p> + +<p>CONTINUE A SOUTHERLY COURSE.</p> + +<p>March 26.</p> + +<p>In the morning I found that the point we were anchored off ran +south-east and north-west: it was about two miles long and formed +a low spit of land whence the coast trended due south. I debated +for a few minutes whether I should explore the creek which lay to +the south of us, but decided in the negative. Had I followed my +own wishes I should have done so, but the lives of others now +depended on my incurring no unjustifiable delay, and it did not +therefore appear to be of importance; besides, as we had now +traced the unknown portions of this great bay, and had moreover +discovered in it a country in every way fitted for immediate +occupation, and which indeed appeared from its soil and position +to be one of the most valuable portions of the western side of +the Continent, I thought that everything worthy of any great risk +or danger had been accomplished, and resolved to hurry +homewards.</p> + +<p>STEER FROM THE MAIN.</p> + +<p>After following the coast for a few miles further to the south +I considered we were now far enough to windward to fetch +somewhere near the centre of Perron's Peninsula; I therefore made +sail and steered for that point.</p> + +<p>ANOTHER GALE OF WIND.</p> + +<p>Our passage across was a long and tedious one, and when at +last towards evening we sighted Perron's Peninsula it was very +evident that my boat would not do more than fetch the very +northern point, but the other boat, which was a much better +sailer, was nearly a mile to windward of us. The weather had been +for the last hour or two very threatening, and we had reached to +within two miles of the shore when the wind suddenly shifted to +the south-west and began to blow a terrific gale. We had just +time to down sail and take to the oars, and as every one of the +crew saw that his life depended on it they gave way strenuously. +We were under the lee of the Peninsula and had it not been for +this circumstance must undoubtedly have been lost. That gale of +wind was a terrible and magnificent sight. I stood at the steer +oar; the waves lifted the boat each time nearly broadside on, and +it was all I could do to bring her head round in time to meet the +next sea, but the men pulled steadily. "Now men, give way for +your lives," I called out if they flagged, and renewed energy was +instantly infused into all of them. At times we could not hold +our own against the wind and waves, and at the most favourable +moments seemed merely to stand still. I looked at the shore until +my eyes ached; but no nearer did it appear to be than at first, +and gradually grew less distinct as the daylight faded. We could +only see the other boat now and then; but although she was +evidently in imminent peril they were much nearer in shore than +we were. The danger we underwent on this occasion was great; but +the excitement of so wild and grand a scene was highly +pleasurable, and when success at last crowned our exertions, and +we went dancing wildly in through the surf and spray upon a rocky +unknown shore, and found the other crew on the beach ready to +help us in hauling up, I felt that there is a charm attached to +scenes like these which can only be fully estimated by those who +have experienced it. Having in our turn assisted to haul up the +other boat we lighted our fires and laid down for the night.</p> + +<p>PERRON'S PENINSULA.</p> + +<p>March 27.</p> + +<p>This morning I found that all our hands were so fatigued by +the exertions of the previous day that a few hours of comparative +rest was absolutely necessary. I therefore directed them to +stroll about the beach for an hour or two and to collect oysters +or shellfish. The part of Perron's Peninsula which we were on +consists of abrupt cliffs of the height of about two hundred +feet; at the base of these and between them and the sea there is +a narrow strip of sandy land and dunes, and at their summit is a +barren sandy tableland, gently sloping away to the southward and +appearing to extend throughout the whole length of the +peninsula.</p> + +<p>As soon as I thought the men were sufficiently rested we +launched the boats, but on rounding the northern extremity of the +peninsula met a heavy sea running from the southward and were +obliged to take to the oars. We had not got more than two miles +to the southward of Cape Leseuer when I saw so many indications +of an approaching gale that I ran in again and beached the boats; +and this operation was hardly accomplished ere it blew with +terrific violence from the south-south-west. Both here and at our +last night's encampment we saw numerous signs of natives, and now +found several native wells in the sandhills, but had no occasion +to use them as we had regular tropical rain for the rest of the +day. The men here brought me the bones of a very large marine +animal which they had found at the natives' fire, but I could not +recognise them as belonging to any that I was acquainted with. At +this period, from bad food and being constantly wet with salt +water, we were all afflicted with sores of the most painful and +annoying character, and these much increased the unpleasantness +of our situation.</p> + +<p>ANOTHER GALE.</p> + +<p>March 28.</p> + +<p>This morning the weather looked tolerably fine; I therefore +ordered the boats to be launched and, after pulling a few miles +to windward along Perron's Peninsula, we struck across for Dirk +Hartog's Island; our former ill-luck however still attended us, +for just as we were making the land another fearful gale from the +south-south-west came on, and had we not had the good luck to +have got under the lee of the Coin de Mire of the French we must +infallibly have been wrecked; as it was we pulled along under +this promontory and beached the boats in a little bay at its +north-west extremity. Nothing but absolute necessity could +however have induced me to take such a step, for the place was +rocky and difficult of access, with a heavy surf breaking on the +beach. The rain fell in torrents during the greater part of the +evening, and the men spent the time in searching for oysters and +shellfish with which to appease their hunger. The rain which had +fallen during the last two days had a very injurious effect upon +some of us, for, our clothes having been lost with the other +things which were swept away from the depot during the hurricane +of the first of March, we were very insufficiently clad.</p> + +<p>DIRK HARTOG'S ISLAND.</p> + +<p>March 29.</p> + +<p>The weather this morning being very foul I occupied myself in +making a survey of a portion of Dirk Hartog's Island, which is of +a very barren nature, though rather better than either Bernier or +Dorre Islands, but for many years to come it must be utterly +useless. It looks exactly like a Scottish heath; and I have no +doubt whatever that water would be found by digging on it; but as +we could have obtained plenty from large holes in the rocks we +did not make the attempt. Whilst I was occupied in this +examination of the island the wind shifted suddenly to the +north-west and I hurried back to the party in order not to lose +so favourable an opportunity.</p> + +<p>On arriving at the boats I found that the water had not been +completed, nor had three days' provisions (such as they were) +been cooked, although I had left orders when I went away that +these necessary preparations for our moving should immediately be +made; this gave me another reason to suspect that, during my +temporary absence from the party, discipline was now altogether +neglected, and indeed treated as an unnecessary restraint under +existing circumstances. Mr. Smith had warned me that such was the +case, and I therefore never separated myself from any portion of +the party without great anxiety; for I well knew that the safety +of all depended upon preserving the strictest subordination.</p> + +<p>In this instance however I merely ordered the boats to be +instantly launched; for I knew that to lose a fair wind in our +present situation would be rashness; and we were soon bounding +before the breeze. The wind now continued fair and at nightfall +we landed on the main in such a position as to look out to the +open sea, through the passage between Steep Point and Dirk +Hartog's Island.</p> + +<p>PERILOUS COASTING.</p> + +<p>March 30.</p> + +<p>This morning we pulled up the opening and found a perfect +bubble of a sea running into it and breaking on the various reefs +which lie in its mouth. We then made an attempt to pull round +Steep Point and succeeded in getting out to sea; but there was a +formidable swell setting dead on the shore and drifting us +rapidly in towards it, whilst in the event of being stranded +nothing could have saved our lives for the surf was so tremendous +that the boat must instantly have gone to pieces, and the lofty +limestone cliffs were perfectly inaccessible, being hollowed out +into deep caverns by the action of the waves. The attempt to get +along this coast appeared indeed to be so hazardous that even the +old sailors who were with me begged me not to risk it, but rather +to allow them to endeavour to walk overland to Perth. I was well +aware that had I attempted to do this at least half the party +would have been lost; for but few men can support the fatigue of +making long and continuous marches in a very warm climate in +which a great scarcity of water prevails.</p> + +<p>SHELTER UNDER A REEF.</p> + +<p>I however humoured them so far as to put back for the mouth of +the opening, where, under the shelter of a reef, we could lie at +anchor for a few hours in the hope that the sea would lull a +little; we however only just cleared Steep Point, and whilst +doing so I felt certain for two or three minutes that we must +have gone ashore, for each breaker lifted the boat bodily towards +the cliffs; as it was however it pleased Providence to bring us +safe to our anchorage.</p> + +<p>We were now about to enter on the most perilous part of our +journey homewards. For the next one hundred and twenty miles +along the coast I could not hope to find a place whereon to beach +the boats, in the event of our meeting with those unfavourable +winds which we had hitherto found so prevalent. It would, in the +present weak state of the party, take us many successive days to +make this passage; and, should the weather be really foul, +accompanied by strong gales from the south-west, our fate would +soon have been decided. Nevertheless our hope of ultimate safety +rested altogether upon the accomplishment of the difficult task +we were about to commence.</p> + +<p>INSUBORDINATION CHECKED.</p> + +<p>I soon found that remaining in a state of inactivity would but +increase our difficulties; for as the men talked over them to one +another, they grew wore and more gloomy, and when at length I +gave a particular order to a man of the name of Woods he quietly +refused to obey it, saying that he now considered that his life +was altogether lost, and that he would therefore knock off work. +I was rather puzzled for a minute or two as to how I ought to act +under these circumstances, for such an example as he had set +necessarily exercised a bad influence over the others; yet there +was no use in threatening to punish where I had not the means to +do so; I therefore merely turned round to the man who had the +charge of sharing out our scanty allowance of provisions and +desired him to divide Woods' portion of water and provisions +amongst the rest of us today, as I intended for the future that +he should have none, at all events not until he did his fair +share of work. This had the desired effect; he soon came to his +senses and told me that I might as well throw him overboard at +once as starve him, to which I replied that unless he overcame +his cowardice and bore his proportion of the toil we all had to +go through I should in no way whatever interfere with his +starving, being thrown overboard, or anything else; but that I +would take very good care that he had neither a morsel to eat or +a drop of water to drink; whereupon he again resumed his duty and +from that time forward proved to be one of the best men I had +with me; indeed I never again had occasion to find fault with +him.</p> + +<p>Seeing however what a pernicious effect this delay was likely +to produce I determined at once to cope with those difficulties, +which we must either overcome or perish; and accordingly round +Steep Point we again went, and for the rest of this evening and +night contended with the heavy sea as well as we could, keeping +about a mile from the shore, sometimes pulling and sometimes +getting a favourable slant of wind.</p> + +<p>March 31.</p> + +<p>This day we continued our course, tracing out the shore. A +small piece of raw pork was served out to each man; and I found +this to be a very nice and palatable morsel; it however increased +our thirst, which, as we were upon very short allowance of water, +was rather a disadvantage; but it was absolutely necessary that +we should take some nourishment.</p> + +<p>CHARACTER OF THE SHORE.</p> + +<p>The country hereabouts is very uninviting, consisting of a +high range of barren limestone hills, ascending gradually from +steep cliffs which form the coastline. These hills are of such +equal elevation that they have a monotonous as well as barren +appearance, and are rent in places by deep rocky gullies which +run down into the sea. No change whatever took place in the +character of the coast throughout our day's ruin, nor did I see a +spot where a boat could land. I did not close my eyes during +Sunday night, for we were still in a most perilous position, and +I felt that whilst we were on so dangerous a coast with a foul +wind it was my duty to keep upon the alert as long as wearied +nature would admit of my so doing.</p> + +<p>As soon as there was sufficient light for me to distinguish +the coastline I found that it was somewhat losing its monotonous +character by breaking into more detached hills; and about ten +A.M., we reached the northern extremity of Gantheaume Bay.</p> + +<p>TO GANTHEAUME BAY.</p> + +<p>The men being now completely worn out by want of rest, +incessant exertion, and the mental anxiety they had undergone in +the last fifty-six hours, during the whole of which time they had +been in actual danger, I determined to attempt a landing in +Gantheaume Bay, and therefore pulled along shore with the +intention of finding a spot where we could easily land and yet be +near a place likely to afford us water; for notwithstanding the +economy we had practised none now was left. I soon came to an +opening in the bay which I thought would suit our purpose, but +Ruston, on whose opinion in such matters I placed great reliance, +reported it to be utterly impracticable; we still therefore +pulled along the shore, and found it lashed throughout its whole +extent by a fearful surf. The south end of the bay, although +protected by a reef, had just as heavy a surf breaking on it as +any other part of the shore and was also very rocky, we therefore +turned back to a sandy beach which we had passed in pulling round +the bay and, having carefully examined this, it appeared in every +way suited to our purpose, so we committed ourselves to the mercy +of the breakers and in we went. As I stood at the steer-oar I saw +that this was a heavier surf than we had ever yet been in. We +were swept along at a terrific rate, and yet it appeared as if +each following wave must engulf us, so lofty were they, and so +rapidly did they pour on.</p> + +<p>WRECK OF ONE OF THE BOATS.</p> + +<p>At length we reached the point where the waves broke; the +breaker that we were on curled up in the air, lifting the boat +with it, and when we had gained the summit I looked down from a +great height, not upon water, but upon a bare, sharp, black rock. +For one second the boat hung upon the top of the wave; in the +next I felt the sensation of falling rapidly, then a tremendous +shock and crash which jerked me away amongst rocks and breakers, +and for the few following seconds I heard nothing but the din of +waves whilst I was rolling about amongst men, and a torn boat, +oars, and water-kegs, in such a manner that I could not collect +my senses.</p> + +<p>END OF VOLUME 1.</p> + +<p>[ILLUSTRATION 1. Map of the District of the River Glenelg, on +the North-Western Coast of Australia, from the surveys of George +Grey, Esquire, by John Arrowsmith. (Presumably this map appeared +at the beginning of the book. In the facsimile the maps are glued +to the last blank pages.)]</p> + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Journals Of Two Expeditions Of +Discovery In North-West And Western Australia, Vol. 1 (of 2), by George Grey + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK JOURNALS OF TWO EXPEDITIONS *** + +***** This file should be named 16027-h.htm or 16027-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/1/6/0/2/16027/ + +Produced by Sue Asscher and Col Choat + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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