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/* ...about 3+ digits wide */ + position: absolute; /* positioned out of text flow */ + /* left: -5em; ...positioned in LEFT margin */ + right: 0; /* ...positioned in RIGHT margin */ + color: #000; background-color: #ccc; /* black on light gray */ + } + + hr.full { width: 100%; } + pre.pg {font-size: 8pt;} + + </style> +</head> +<body> +<h1 class="pg">The Project Gutenberg eBook, Three Years in Europe, by William Wells +Brown, et al</h1> +<pre class="pg"> +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at <a href = "https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a></pre> +<p>Title: Three Years in Europe</p> +<p> Places I Have Seen and People I Have Met</p> +<p>Author: William Wells Brown</p> +<p>Release Date: May 15, 2005 [eBook #15830]</p> +<p>Language: English</p> +<p>Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1</p> +<p>***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THREE YEARS IN EUROPE***</p> +<p> </p> +<h4 class="pg">E-text prepared by Suzanne Shell, Michael Punch,<br /> + and the Project Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team<br /> + from page images generously made available by<br /> + the Bibliothèque nationale de France (http://gallica.bnf.fr)</h4> +<p> </p> +<table border="0" style="background-color: #ccccff;" cellpadding="10"> + <tr> + <td valign="top"> + Note: + </td> + <td> + Images of the original pages are available through the + Bibliothèque nationale de France. See + <a href="http://visualiseur.bnf.fr/Visualiseur?Destination=Gallica&O=NUMM-103524"> + http://visualiseur.bnf.fr/Visualiseur?Destination=Gallica&O=NUMM-103524</a> + </td> + </tr> +</table> +<p> </p> +<hr class="full" /> +<div><!-- Page -30 --><a name="Page_ii" id="Page_ii" title="ii" class="pagenum"></a></div> +<h1 class="noindent" style="text-align: center"> </h1> + +<div class="noindent" style="text-align: center" > +<!-- Page -29 --><a name="Page_iii" id="Page_iii" title="iii" class="pagenum"></a> +<img src="images/wellsbrown.jpg" alt="W. Wells Brown." title="W. Wells Brown." /><br /> +<b>W. Wells Brown.</b> +<!-- Page -28 --><a name="Page_iv" id="Page_iv" title="iv" class="pagenum"></a></div> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + + +<h2><span style="text-align: center; font-size: 141%"> +THREE YEARS IN EUROPE;</span><br /> + +<span style="font-size: 50%">OR,</span><br /> + +PLACES I HAVE SEEN AND PEOPLE I +HAVE MET.<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +BY W. WELLS BROWN,<br /> + +<span style="font-size: 50%">A FUGITIVE SLAVE.</span><br /> +<br /> + +<span style="font-size: 41%">WITH</span><br /> +<br /> +A MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOR,<br /> + +<span style="font-size: 71%">BY WILLIAM FARMER, Esq.</span><br /> +<br /> +<br /> + +<span style="font-size: 71%">LONDON:<br /> +CHARLES GILPIN, 5, BISHOPSGATE STREET, WITHOUT.<br /> + +EDINBURGH: OLIVER AND BOYD.<br /> + +1852.</span></h2> +<div><!-- Page -27 --><a name="Page_v" id="Page_v" title="v" class="pagenum"></a></div> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="CONTENTS" id="CONTENTS"></a>CONTENTS.</h2> + +<p /> <!-- bizarrely, without this line, IE5 doesn't show the TOC at all!! (just a big blank) --> +<ul class="TOC"> + +<li><a href="#MEMOIR_OF_WILLIAM_WELLS_BROWN"> +<span style="font-variant: small-caps;">Memoir of William Wells Brown,</span></a> +<span class="tocright"><i>Page</i> ix-xxix</span> +<br /></li> +<li><a href="#PREFACE"><span style="font-variant: small-caps;">Author's Preface,</span></a> +<span class="tocright">xxxi-xxxii</span></li> + +<li style="text-align: center; font-weight: bold;"><a href="#LETTER_I"><b>LETTER I.</b></a></li> +<li>Departure from Boston—the Passengers—Halifax—the Passage—First +Sight of Land—Liverpool, <span class="tocright">1-9</span></li> + +<li style="text-align: center; font-weight: bold;"><a href="#LETTER_II"><b>LETTER II.</b></a></li> +<li>Trip to Ireland—Dublin—Her Majesty's Visit—Illumination of the City—the +Birth-Place of Thomas Moore—a Reception, <span class="tocright">9-21</span></li> + +<li style="text-align: center; font-weight: bold;"><a href="#LETTER_III"><b>LETTER III.</b></a></li> +<li>Departure from Ireland—London—Trip to Paris—Paris—The Peace Congress: +first day—Church of the Madeleine—Column Vendome—the +French, <span class="tocright">21-38</span></li> + +<li style="text-align: center; font-weight: bold;"><a href="#LETTER_IV"><b>LETTER IV.</b></a></li> +<li>Versailles—The Palace—Second Session of the Congress—Mr. Cobden—Henry +Vincent—M. Girardin—Abbe Duguerry—Victor Hugo: his +Speech, <span class="tocright">38-49</span></li> + +<li style="text-align: center; font-weight: bold;"><a href="#LETTER_V"><b>LETTER V.</b></a></li> +<li>M. de Tocqueville's Grand Soiree—Madame de Tocqueville—Visit of the Peace +Delegates to Versailles—The Breakfast—Speechmaking—The Trianons—Waterworks—St. +Cloud—The Fete, <span class="tocright">50-59</span></li> + +<li style="text-align: center; font-weight: bold;"><a href="#LETTER_VI"><b>LETTER VI.</b></a></li> +<li>The Tuileries—Place de la Concorde—The Egyptian Obelisk—Palais Royal—Residence +of Robespierre—A Visit to the Room in which Charlotte Corday +killed Marat—Church de Notre Dame—Palais de Justice—Hotel des +Invalids—National Assembly—The Elysee, <span class="tocright">59-73</span></li> + +<li style="text-align: center; font-weight: bold;"> +<!-- Page -26 --><a name="Page_vi" id="Page_vi" title="vi" class="pagenum"></a> +<a href="#LETTER_VII"><b>LETTER VII.</b></a></li> +<li>The Chateau at Versailles—Private Apartments of Marie Antoinette—The +Secret Door—Paintings of Raphael and David—Arc de Triomphe—Beranger +the Poet, <span class="tocright">73-82</span></li> + +<li style="text-align: center; font-weight: bold;"><a href="#LETTER_VIII"><b>LETTER VIII.</b></a></li> +<li>Departure from Paris—Boulogne—Folkstone—London—Geo. Thompson, Esq., +M.P.—Hartwell House—Dr. Lee—Cottage of the Peasant—Windsor Castle—Residence +of Wm. Penn—England's First Welcome—Heath Lodge—The +Bank of England, <span class="tocright">83-104</span></li> + +<li style="text-align: center; font-weight: bold;"><a href="#LETTER_IX"><b>LETTER IX.</b></a></li> +<li>The British Museum—A Portrait—Night Reading—A Dark Day—A Fugitive +Slave on the Streets of London—A Friend in the time of need, <span class="tocright">104-116</span></li> + +<li style="text-align: center; font-weight: bold;"><a href="#LETTER_X"><b>LETTER X.</b></a></li> +<li>The Whittington Club—Louis Blanc—Street Amusements—Tower of +London—Westminster Abbey—National Gallery—Dante—Sir Joshua +Reynolds, <span class="tocright">117-134</span></li> + +<li style="text-align: center; font-weight: bold;"><a href="#LETTER_XI"><b>LETTER XI.</b></a></li> +<li>York-Minster—The Great Organ—Newcastle-on-Tyne—The Labouring Classes—The +American Slave—Sheffield—James Montgomery, <span class="tocright">134-145</span></li> + +<li style="text-align: center; font-weight: bold;"><a href="#LETTER_XII"><b>LETTER XII.</b></a></li> +<li>Kirkstall Abbey—Mary the Maid of the Inn—Newstead Abbey: Residence of +Lord Byron—Parish Church of Hucknall—Burial Place of Lord Byron—Bristol: +"Cook's Folly"—Chepstow Castle and Abbey—Tintern Abbey—Redcliffe +Church, <span class="tocright">145-162</span></li> + +<li style="text-align: center; font-weight: bold;"><a href="#LETTER_XIII"><b>LETTER XIII.</b></a></li> +<li>Edinburgh—The Royal Institute—Scott's Monument—John Knox's Pulpit—Temperance +Meeting—Glasgow—Great Meeting in the City Hall, <span class="tocright">163-176</span></li> + +<li style="text-align: center; font-weight: bold;"><a href="#LETTER_XIV"><b>LETTER XIV.</b></a></li> +<li>Stirling—Dundee—Dr. Dick—Geo. Gilfillan—Dr. Dick at home, <span class="tocright">177-184</span></li> + +<li style="text-align: center; font-weight: bold;"><a href="#LETTER_XV"><b>LETTER XV.</b></a></li> +<li>Melrose Abbey—Abbotsford—Dryburgh Abbey—The Grave of Sir Walter +Scott—Hawick—Gretna Green—Visit to the Lakes, <span class="tocright">185-196</span></li> + +<li style="text-align: center; font-weight: bold;"> +<!-- Page -25 --><a name="Page_vii" id="Page_vii" title="vii" class="pagenum"></a> +<a href="#LETTER_XVI"><b>LETTER XVI.</b></a></li> +<li>Miss Martineau—"The Knoll"—"Ridal Mount"—"The Dove's Nest"—Grave +of William Wordsworth, Esq.—The English Peasant, <span class="tocright">196-207</span></li> + +<li style="text-align: center; font-weight: bold;"><a href="#LETTER_XVII"><b>LETTER XVII.</b></a></li> +<li>A Day in the Crystal Palace, <span class="tocright">207-219</span></li> + +<li style="text-align: center; font-weight: bold;"><a href="#LETTER_XVIII"><b>LETTER XVIII.</b></a></li> +<li>The London Peace Congress—Meeting of Fugitive Slaves—Temperance Demonstration—The +Great Exhibition: Last Visit, <span class="tocright">219-226</span></li> + +<li style="text-align: center; font-weight: bold;"><a href="#LETTER_XIX"><b>LETTER XIX.</b></a></li> +<li>Oxford—Martyrs' Monument—Cost of the Burning of the Martyrs—The Colleges—Dr. +Pusey—Energy, the Secret of Success, <span class="tocright">227-235</span></li> + +<li style="text-align: center; font-weight: bold;"><a href="#LETTER_XX"><b>LETTER XX.</b></a></li> +<li>Fugitive Slaves in England, <span class="tocright">236-250</span></li> + +<li style="text-align: center; font-weight: bold;"><a href="#LETTER_XXI"><b>LETTER XXI.</b></a></li> +<li>A Chapter on American Slavery, <span class="tocright">250-273</span></li> + +<li style="text-align: center; font-weight: bold;"><a href="#LETTER_XXII"><b>LETTER XXII.</b></a></li> +<li>A Narrative of American Slavery, <span class="tocright">273-305</span></li> + +<li style="text-align: center; font-weight: bold;"><a href="#LETTER_XXIIIA"><b>LETTER XXIII.</b></a></li> +<li>Aberdeen—Passage by Steamer—Edinburgh—Visit to the College—William +and Ellen Craft, <span class="tocright">305-312</span></li> +</ul> +<div><!-- Page -24 --><a name="Page_viii" id="Page_viii" title="viii" class="pagenum"></a><!-- Page -23 --><a name="Page_ix" id="Page_ix" title="ix" class="pagenum"></a></div> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="MEMOIR_OF_WILLIAM_WELLS_BROWN" id="MEMOIR_OF_WILLIAM_WELLS_BROWN"></a>MEMOIR OF WILLIAM WELLS BROWN.</h2> + + +<p>A narrative of the life of the author of the present +work has been most extensively circulated in +England and America. The present memoir will, +therefore, simply comprise a brief sketch of the +most interesting portion of Mr. Brown's history +while in America, together with a short account +of his subsequent cisatlantic career. The publication +of his adventures as a slave, and as a fugitive +from slavery in his native land, has been most +valuable in sustaining a sound anti-slavery spirit +in Great Britain. His honourable reception in +Europe may be equally serviceable in America, as +another added to the many practical protests previously +entered from this side of the Atlantic, +against the absolute bondage of three millions +and a quarter of the human race, and the semi-slavery +involved in the social and political proscription +of 600,000 free coloured people in that +country.</p> + +<p>William Wells Brown was born at Lexington, +in the state of Kentucky, as nearly as he can tell +in the autumn of 1814. In the Southern States +of America, the pedigree and age of a horse or a +<!-- Page -22 --><a name="Page_x" id="Page_x" title="x" class="pagenum"></a>dog are carefully preserved, but no record is kept +of the birth of a slave. All that Mr. Brown +knows upon the subject is traditionally, that he +was born "about corn-cutting time" of that year. +His mother was a slave named Elizabeth, the +property of Dr. Young, a physician. His father +was George Higgins, a relative of his master.</p> + +<p>The name given to our author at his birth, was +"William"—no second or surname being permitted +to a slave. While William was an infant, +Dr. Young removed to Missouri, where, in addition +to his profession as a physician, he carried +on the—to European notions—incongruous avocations +of miller, merchant, and farmer. Here +William was employed as a house servant, while +his mother was engaged as a field hand. One of +his first bitter experiences of the cruelties of slavery, +was his witnessing the infliction of ten lashes +upon the bare back of his mother, for being a few +minutes behind her time at the field—a punishment +inflicted with one of those peculiar whips in +the construction of which, so as to produce the +greatest amount of torture, those whom Lord +Carlisle has designated "the chivalry of the +South" find scope for their ingenuity.</p> + +<p>Dr. Young subsequently removed to a farm +near St. Louis, in the same State. Having been +elected a Member of the Legislature, he devolved +the management of his farm upon an overseer, +having, what to his unhappy victims must have +been the ironical name of "Friend Haskall." The +mother and child were now separated. The boy +was levied to a Virginian named Freeland, who +bore the military title of Major, and carried on the +<!-- Page -21 --><a name="Page_xi" id="Page_xi" title="xi" class="pagenum"></a>plebeian business of a publican. This man was of +an extremely brutal disposition, and treated his +slaves with most refined cruelty. His favourite +punishment, which he facetiously called "Virginian +play," was to <ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: "flag" in the original text">flog</ins> his slaves severely, and +then expose their lacerated flesh to the smoke of +tobacco stems, causing the most exquisite agony. +William complained to his owner of the treatment +of Freeland, but, as in almost all similar instances, +the appeal was in vain. At length he was induced +to attempt an escape, not from that love of liberty +which subsequently became with him an unconquerable +passion, but simply to avoid the +cruelty to which he was habitually subjected. He +took refuge in the woods, but was hunted and +"traced" by the blood-hounds of a Major +O'Fallon, another of "the chivalry of the South," +whose gallant occupation was that of keeping an +establishment for the hire of ferocious dogs with +which to hunt fugitive slaves. The young slave +received a severe application of "Virginia play" for +his attempt to escape. Happily the military +publican soon afterwards failed in business, and +William found a better master and a more congenial +employment with Captain Cilvers, on board +a steam-boat plying between St. Louis and +Galena. At the close of the sailing season he +was levied to an hotel-keeper, a native of a free +state, but withal of a class which exist north as +well as south—a most inveterate negro hater. At +this period of William's history, a circumstance +occurred, which, although a common incident in +the lives of slaves, is one of the keenest trials they +have to endure—the breaking up of his family +<!-- Page -20 --><a name="Page_xii" id="Page_xii" title="xii" class="pagenum"></a>circle. Her master wanted money, and he +therefore sold Elizabeth and six of her children +to seven different purchasers. The family +relationship is almost the only solace of slavery. +While the mother, brothers, and sisters are +permitted to meet together in the negro hut +after the hour of labour, the slaves are comparatively +content with their oppressed condition; but +deprive them of this, the only privilege which they +as human beings are possessed of, and nothing is +left but the animal part of their nature—the +living soul is extinguished within them. With +them there is nothing to love—everything to +hate. They feel themselves degraded to the condition +not only of mere animals, but of the most +ill-used animals in the creation.</p> + +<p>Not needing the services of his young relative, +Dr. Young hired him to the proprietor of the <i>St. +Louis Times</i>, the best master William ever had in +slavery. Here he gained the scanty amount of +education he acquired at the South. This kind +treatment by his editorial master appears to have +engendered in the heart of William a consciousness +of his own manhood, and led him into the +commission of an offence similar to that perpetrated +by Frederick Douglass, under similar circumstances—the +assertion of the right of self-defence. +He gallantly defended himself against +the attacks of several boys older and bigger than +himself, but in so doing was guilty of the unpardonable +sin of lifting his hand against white lads; +and the father of one of them, therefore, deemed +it consistent with his manhood to lay in wait for +the young slave, and beat him over the head with +<!-- Page -19 --><a name="Page_xiii" id="Page_xiii" title="xiii" class="pagenum"></a>a heavy cane till the blood gushed from his nose +and ears. From the effects of that treatment the +poor lad was confined to his bed for five weeks, at +the end of which time he found that, to his personal +sufferings, were superadded the calamity of the loss +of the best master he ever had in slavery.</p> + +<p>His next employment was that of waiter on +board a steam-boat plying on the Mississippi. +Here his occupation again was pleasant, and his +treatment good; but the freedom of action enjoyed +by the passengers in travelling whithersoever +they pleased, contrasted strongly in his mind +with his own deprivation of will as a slave. The +natural result of this comparison was an intense +desire for freedom—a feeling which was never +afterwards eradicated from his breast. This love +of liberty was, however, so strongly counteracted +by affection for his mother and sisters, that although +urgently entreated by one of the latter to +take advantage of his present favourable opportunity +for escape, he would not bring himself to +do so at the expense of a separation for life from +his beloved relatives.</p> + +<p>His period of living on board the steamer +having expired, he was again remitted to field +labour, under a burning sun. From that labour, +from which he suffered severely, he was soon removed +to the lighter and more agreeable occupation +of house-waiter to his master. About this +time Dr. Young, in the conventional phraseology +of the locality, "got religion." The fruit of his +alleged spiritual gain, was the loss of many material +comforts to the slaves. Destitute of the resources +of education, they were in the habit of +<!-- Page -18 --><a name="Page_xiv" id="Page_xiv" title="xiv" class="pagenum"></a>employing their otherwise unoccupied minds on +the Sunday in fishing and other harmless pursuits; +these were now all put an end to. The +Sabbath became a season of dread to William: he +was required to drive the family to and from the +church, a distance of four miles either way; and +while they attended to the salvation of their +souls within the building, he was compelled +to attend to the horses without it, standing +by them during divine service under a burning +sun, or drizzling rain. Although William +did not get the religion of his master, he acquired +a family passion which appears to have been +strongly intermixed with the devotional exercises +of the household of Dr. Young—a love of sweet +julep. In the evening, the slaves were required +to attend family worship. Before commencing +the service, it was the custom to hand a pitcher of +the favourite beverage to every member of the +family, not excepting the nephew, a child of +between four and five years old. William was in +the habit of watching his opportunity during the +prayer and helping himself from the pitcher, but +one day letting it fall, his propensity for this intoxicating +drink was discovered, and he was +severely punished for its indulgence.</p> + +<p>In 1830, being then about sixteen years of age, +William was hired to a slave-dealer named +Walker. This change of employment led the +youth away south and frustrated, for a time, his +plans for escape. His experience while in this +capacity furnishes some interesting, though painful, +details of the legalized traffic in human beings +carried on in the United States. The desperation +<!-- Page -17 --><a name="Page_xv" id="Page_xv" title="xv" class="pagenum"></a>to which the slaves are driven at their forced +separation from husband, wife, children, and +kindred, he found to be a frequent cause of suicide. +Slave-dealers he discovered were as great +adepts at deception in the sale of their commodity +as the most knowing down-easter, or tricky horse +dealer. William's occupation on board the +steamer, as they steamed south, was to prepare +the stock for the market, by shaving off whiskers +and blacking the grey hairs with a colouring +composition.</p> + +<p>At the expiration of the period of his hiring +with Walker, William returned to his master +rejoiced to have escaped an employment so repugnant +to his feelings. But this joy was not of +long duration. One of his sisters who, although +sold to another master had been living in the +same city with himself and mother, was again +sold to be sent away south, never in all probability +to meet her sorrowing relatives. Dr. Young also, +wanting money, intimated to his young kinsman +that he was about to sell him. This intimation +determined William, in conjunction with his +mother, to attempt their escape. For ten nights +they travelled northwards, hiding themselves in +the woods by day. The mother and son at length +deemed themselves safe from re-capture, and, +although weary and foot-sore, were laying down +sanguine plans for the acquisition of a farm in +Canada, the purchase of the freedom of the six +other members of the family still in slavery, +and rejoicing in the anticipated happiness of their +free home in Canada. At that moment three +men made up to and seized them, bound the son +<!-- Page -16 --><a name="Page_xvi" id="Page_xvi" title="xvi" class="pagenum"></a>and led him, with his desponding mother, back +to slavery. Elizabeth was sold and sent away +south, while her son became the property of a +merchant tailor named Willi. Mr. Brown's description +of the final interview between himself +and his mother, is one of the most touching +portions of his narrative. The mother, after +expressing her conviction of the speedy escape +from slavery by the hand of death, enjoined her +child to persevere in his endeavours to gain his +freedom by flight. Her blessing was interrupted +by the kick and curse bestowed by her dehumanized +master upon her beloved son.</p> + +<p>After having been hired for a short time to the +captain of the steam-boat <i>Otto</i>, William was +finally sold to Captain Enoch Price for 650 dollars. +That the quickness and intelligence of William +rendered him very valuable as a slave, is favoured +by the evidence of Enoch Price himself, who states +that he was offered 2000 dollars for Sanford (as +he was called), in New Orleans. William was +strongly urged by his new mistress to marry. To +facilitate this object, she even went so far as +to purchase a girl for whom she fancied he had an +affection. He himself, however, had secretly +resolved never to enter into such a connexion +while in slavery, knowing that marriage, in the +true and honourable sense of the term, could not +exist among slaves. Notwithstanding the multitude +of petty offences for which a slave is severely +punished, it is singular that one crime—bigamy—is +visited upon a white with severity, while no +slave has ever yet been tried for it. In fact, the man +is allowed to form connections with as many +<!-- Page -15 --><a name="Page_xvii" id="Page_xvii" title="xvii" class="pagenum"></a>women, and the women with as many men, as +they please.</p> + +<p>At St. Louis, William was employed as coachman +to Mr. Price; but when that gentleman +subsequently took his family up the river to Cincinnati, +Sanford acted as appointed steward. +While lying off this city, the long-looked-for +opportunity of escape presented itself; and on the +1st of January, 1834—he being then almost +twenty years of age—succeeded in getting from +the steamer to the wharf, and thence to the +woods, where he lay concealed until the shades of +night had set in, when he again commenced his +journey northwards. While with Dr. Young, a +nephew of that gentleman, whose christian name +was William, came into the family: the slave was, +therefore, denuded of the name of William, and +thenceforth called Sanford. This deprivation of +his original name he had ever regarded as an +indignity, and having now gained his freedom he +resumed his original name; and as there was no +one by whom he could be addressed by it, he +exultingly enjoyed the first-fruits of his freedom +by calling himself aloud by his old name "William!" +After passing through a variety of painful +vicissitudes, on the eighth day he found himself +destitute of pecuniary means, and unable, from +severe illness, to pursue his journey. In that +condition he was discovered by a venerable member +of the Society of Friends, who placed him in +a covered waggon and took him to his own house. +There he remained about fifteen days, and by the +kind treatment of his host and hostess, who were +what in America are called "Thompsonians," +<!-- Page -14 --><a name="Page_xviii" id="Page_xviii" title="xviii" class="pagenum"></a>he was restored to health, and supplied with +the means of pursuing his journey. The name +of this, his first kind benefactor, was "Wells +Brown." As William had risen from the degradation +of a slave to the dignity of a man, it +was expedient that he should follow the customs +of other men, and adopt a second name. His +venerable friend, therefore, bestowed upon him +his own name, which, prefixed by his former +designation, made him "William Wells Brown," +a name that will live in history, while those of the +men who claimed him as property would, were it +not for his deeds, have been unknown beyond the +town in which they lived. In nine days from the +time he left Wells Brown's house, he arrived at +Cleveland, in the State of Ohio, where he found +he could remain comparatively safe from the pursuit +of the man-stealer. Having obtained employment +as a waiter, he remained in that city until +the following spring, when he procured an engagement +on board a steam-boat plying on Lake Erie. +In that situation he was enabled, during seven +months, to assist no less than sixty-nine slaves to +escape to Canada. While a slave he had regarded +the whites as the natural enemies of his race. It +was, therefore, with no small pleasure that he discovered +the existence of the salt of America, in the +despised Abolitionists of the Northern States. He +read with assiduity the writings of Benjamin Lundy, +William Lloyd Garrison, and others; and after +his own twenty years' experience of slavery, it is not +surprising that he should have enthusiastically +embraced the principles of "total and immediate +emancipation," and "no union with slaveholders."</p> + +<p><!-- Page -13 --><a name="Page_xix" id="Page_xix" title="xix" class="pagenum"></a>In proportion as his mind expanded under the +more favourable circumstances in which he was +placed, he became anxious, not merely for the +redemption of his race from personal slavery, but +for the moral elevation of those among them who +were free. Finding that habits of intoxication +were too prevalent amongst his coloured brethren, +he, in conjunction with others, commenced a +temperance reformation in their body. Such was +the success of their efforts that in three years, in +the city of Buffalo alone, a society of upwards of +500 members was raised out of a coloured population +of 700. Of that society Mr. Brown was +thrice elected President.</p> + +<p>The intellectual powers of our author, coupled +with his intimate acquaintance with the workings +of the slave system, recommended him to the +Abolitionists as a man eminently qualified to +arouse the attention of the people of the Northern +States to the great national sin of America. In +1843 he was engaged as a lecturer by the Western +New-York Anti-Slavery Society. From 1844 +to 1847 he laboured in the anti-slavery +cause in connection with the American Anti-Slavery +Society, and from that period up to the +time of his departure for Europe, in 1849, +he was an agent of the Massachusetts Anti-Slavery +Society. The records of those societies +furnish abundant evidence of the success of +his labours. From the Massachusetts Anti-Slavery +Society he early received the following +testimony:—</p> + +<p>"Since Mr. Brown became an agent of the +Massachusetts Anti-Slavery Society, he has lec<!-- Page -12 --><a name="Page_xx" id="Page_xx" title="xx" class="pagenum"></a>tured +in very many of the towns of this Commonwealth, +and won for himself general respect and +approbation. He combines true self-respect with +true humility, and rare judiciousness with great +moral courage. Himself a fugitive slave, he can +experimentally describe the situation of those in +bonds as bound with them; and he powerfully +illustrates the diabolism of that system which +keeps in chains and darkness a host of minds, +which, if free and enlightened, would shine +among men like stars in a firmament."</p> + +<p>Another member of that Society speaks thus +of him:—"I need not attempt any description +of the ability and efficiency which characterized +his speaking throughout the meetings. To you +who know him so well, it is enough to say that +his lectures were worthy of himself. He has left +an impression on the minds of the people, that +few could have done. Cold, indeed, must be the +heart that could resist the appeals of so noble a +specimen of humanity, in behalf of a crushed and +despised race."</p> + +<p>Notwithstanding the celebrity Mr. Brown had +acquired in the north, as a man of genius and +talent, and the general respect his high character +had gained him, the slave spirit of America +denied him the rights of a citizen. By the constitution +of the United States, he was every moment +liable to be seized and sent back to slavery. +He was in daily peril of a gradual legalized murder, +under a system one of whose established +economical principles is, that it is more profitable +to work up a slave on a plantation in a short +time, by excessive labour and cheap food, than to +<!-- Page -11 --><a name="Page_xxi" id="Page_xxi" title="xxi" class="pagenum"></a>obtain a lengthened remuneration by moderate +work and humane treatment. His only protection +from such a fate was the anomaly of the +ascendancy of the public opinion over the law of +the country. So uncertain, however, was that +tenure of liberty, that even before the passage +of the Fugitive Slave Law, it was deemed expedient +to secure the services of Frederick Douglass +to the anti-slavery cause by the purchase of +his freedom. The same course might have +been taken to secure the labours of Mr. Brown, +had he not entertained an unconquerable repugnance +to its adoption. On the 10th of January, +1848, Enoch Price wrote to Mr. Edmund Quincy +offering to sell Mr. Brown to himself or friends +for 325 dollars. To this communication the +fugitive returned the following pithy and noble +reply:—</p> + +<p>"I cannot accept of Mr. Price's offer to become +a purchaser of my body and soul. God made me +as free as he did Enoch Price, and Mr. Price shall +never receive a dollar from me or my friends with +my consent."</p> + +<p>There were, however, other reasons besides his +personal safety which led to Mr. Brown's visit to +Europe. It was thought desirable always to have +in England some talented man of colour who +should be a living lie to the doctrine of the +inferiority of the African race: and it was moreover +felt that none could so powerfully advocate +the cause of "those in bonds" as one who had +actually been "bound with them." This had +been proved in the extraordinary effect produced +in Great Britain by Frederick Douglass in 1845 +<!-- Page -10 --><a name="Page_xxii" id="Page_xxii" title="xxii" class="pagenum"></a>and 1846. The American Committee in connection +with the Peace Congress were also desirous +of sending to Europe coloured representatives of +their Society, and Mr. Brown was selected for that +purpose, and duly accredited by them to the Paris +Congress.</p> + +<p>On the 18th of July, 1849, a large meeting of +the coloured citizens of Boston was held in +Washington Hall to bid him farewell. At that +meeting the following resolutions were unanimously +adopted:—</p> + +<p class="noindent" style="padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;"> +"<i>Resolved</i>,—That we bid our brother, William +Wells Brown, God speed in his mission to +Europe, and commend him to the hospitality +and encouragement of all true friends of +humanity.</p> + +<p class="noindent" style="padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;"> +"<i>Resolved</i>,—That we forward by him our renewed +protest against the American Colonization +Society; and invoke for him a candid hearing +before the British public, in reply to the +efforts put forth there by the Rev. Mr. Miller, +or any other agent of said Society."</p> + +<p>Two days afterwards he sailed for Europe, +encountering on his voyage his last experience of +American prejudice against colour.</p> + +<p>On the 28th of August he landed at Liverpool, +a time and place memorable in his life as the +first upon which he could truly call himself a free +man upon God's earth. In the history of nations, +as of individuals, there is often singular retributive +mercy as well as retributive justice. In +the seventeenth century the victims of monarchical +tyranny in Great <ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: "Britian" in the original text">Britain</ins> found social and +<!-- Page -9 --><a name="Page_xxiii" id="Page_xxiii" title="xxiii" class="pagenum"></a>political freedom when they set foot upon Plymouth +Rock in New England: in the nineteenth +century the victims of the oppressions of the +American Republic find freedom and social +equality upon the shores of monarchical England. +Liverpool, which seventy years back was so +steeped in the guilt of negro slavery that Paine +expressed his surprise that God did not sweep it +from the face of the earth, is now to the hunted +negro the Plymouth Rock of Old England. +From Liverpool he proceeded to Dublin where he +was warmly received by Mr. Haughton, Mr. +Webb, and other friends of the slave, and publicly +welcomed at a large meeting presided over +by the first named gentleman.</p> + +<p>The reception of Mr. Brown at the Peace Congress +in Paris was most flattering. In a company, +comprising a large portion of the <i>elite</i> of Europe, +he admirably maintained his reputation as a +public speaker. His brief address, upon that +"war spirit of America which holds in bondage +three million of his brethren," produced a profound +sensation. At its conclusion the speaker +was warmly greeted by Victor Hugo, the Abbe +Duguerry, Emile de Girardin, the Pastor +Coquerel, Richard Cobden, and every man of note +in the Assembly. At the soiree given by M. De +Tocqueville, the Minister for Foreign Affairs, and +the other fetes given to the Members of the Congress, +Mr. Brown was received with marked +attention.</p> + +<p>Having finished his Peace mission in France, he +commenced an Anti-slavery tour in England and +Scotland. With that independence of feeling +<!-- Page -8 --><a name="Page_xxiv" id="Page_xxiv" title="xxiv" class="pagenum"></a>which those who are acquainted with him know to +be his chief characteristic, he rejected the idea of +anything like eleemosynary support. He determined +to maintain himself and family by his own +exertions—by his literary labours, and the +honourable profession of a public lecturer. His +first metropolitan reception in England was at a +large, influential, and enthusiastic meeting in the +Music Hall, Stone Street. The members of the +Whittington Club—an institution numbering +nearly 2000 members, among whom are Lords +Brougham, Dudley Coutts Stuart, and Beaumont; +Charles Dickens, Douglass Jerrold, Martin +Thackeray, Charles Lushington, M.P., Monckton +Milnes, M.P., and several other of the most distinguished +legislators and literary men and women +in this country—elected Mr. Brown an honorary +member of the Club, as a mark of respect to his +character; and, as the following extract from the +Secretary, Mr. Stundwicke, will show, as a protest +against the distinctions made between man and +man on account of colour in America:—"I have +much pleasure in conveying to you the best thanks +of the managing committee of this institution for +the excellent lecture you gave here last evening on +the subject of 'Slavery in America,' and also in +presenting you in their names with an honorary +membership of the Club. It is hoped that you +will often avail yourself of its privileges by coming +amongst us. You will then see, by the cordial +welcome of the members, that they protest against +the odious distinctions made between man and +man, and the abominable traffic of which you have +been the victim."</p> + +<p><!-- Page -7 --><a name="Page_xxv" id="Page_xxv" title="xxv" class="pagenum"></a>For the last three years Mr. Brown has been +engaged in visiting and holding meetings in nearly +all the large towns in the kingdom upon the +question of American Slavery, Temperance, and +other subjects. Perhaps no coloured individual, +not excepting that extraordinary man, Frederick +Douglass, has done more good in disseminating +anti-slavery principles in England, Scotland, and +Ireland.</p> + +<p>In the spring of 1851, two most interesting +fugitives, William and Ellen Craft, arrived in +England. They had made their escape from the +South, the wife disguised in male attire, and the +husband in the capacity of her slave. William +Craft was doing a thriving business in Boston, +but in 1851 was driven with his wife from +that city by the operation of the Fugitive +Slave Law. For several months they travelled +in company with Mr. Brown in this country, +deepening the disgust created by Mr. Brown's +eloquent denunciation of slavery by their simple +but touching narrative. At length they were +enabled to gratify their thirst for education by +gaining admission to Lady Byron's school at +Oakham, Surrey. In the month of May, Mr. +Brown and Mr. and Mrs. Craft were taken by a +party of anti-slavery friends to the Great Exhibition. +The honourable manner in which they +were received by distinguished persons to whom +their history was known, and the freedom with +which they perambulated the American department, +was a salutary rebuke to the numerous +Americans present, in regard to the great sin +of their country—slavery; and its great folly—prejudice<!-- Page -6 --><a name="Page_xxvi" id="Page_xxvi" title="xxvi" class="pagenum"></a> +of colour. A curious circumstance occurred +during the Exhibition. Among the hosts +of American visitors to this country was Mr. +Brown's late master, Enoch Price, who made diligent +inquiry after his lost piece of property—not, +of course, with any view to its reclamation—but, +to the mutual regret of both parties, without success. +It is gratifying to state that the master +spoke highly of, and expressed a wish for the +future prosperity of, his fugitive slave; a fact +which tends to prove that prejudice of colour is +to a very great extent a thing of locality and +association. Had Mr. Price, however, left behind +him letters of manumission for Mr. Brown, enabling +him, if he chose, to return to his native +land, he would have given a more practical proof +of respect, and of the sincerity of his desire for the +welfare of Mr. Brown.</p> + +<p>It would extend these pages far beyond their +proposed length were anything like a detailed +account of Mr. Brown's anti-slavery labours in +this country to be attempted. Suffice it to say +that they have everywhere been attended with +benefit and approbation. At Bolton an admirable +address from the ladies was presented to him, and +at other places he has received most honourable +testimonials.</p> + +<p>Since Mr. Brown left America, the condition of +the fugitive slaves in his own country has, +through the operation of the Fugitive Slave +Law, been rendered so perilous as to preclude +the possibility of return without the +almost certain loss of liberty. His expatriation +has, however, been a gain to the cause of human<!-- Page -5 --><a name="Page_xxvii" id="Page_xxvii" title="xxvii" class="pagenum"></a>ity +in this country, where an intelligent representative +of the oppressed coloured Americans is constantly +needed, not only to describe, in language +of fervid eloquence, the wrongs inflicted upon his +race in the United States, but to prevent their +bonds being strengthened in this country by holding +fellowship with slave-holding and slave-abetting +ministers from America. In his lectures he has +clearly demonstrated the fact, that the sole support +of the slavery of the United States is its +churches. This knowledge of the standing of +American ministers in reference to slavery has, +in the case of Dr. Dyer, and in many other instances, +been most serviceable, preventing their +reception into communion with British churches. +Last year Mr. Brown succeeded in getting over +to this country his daughters, two interesting +girls twelve and sixteen years of age respectively, +who are now receiving an education which will +qualify them hereafter to become teachers in their +turn—a description of education which would +have been denied them in their native land. In +1834 Mr. Brown married a free coloured woman, +who died in January of the present year.</p> + +<p>The condition of escaped slaves has engaged +much of his attention while in this country. He +found that in England no anti-slavery organization +existed whose object was to aid fugitive slaves +in obtaining an honourable subsistence in the +land of their exile. In most cases they are thrown +upon the support of a few warm-hearted anti-slavery +advocates in this country, pre-eminent +among whom stands Mr. Brown's earliest friend, +Mr. George Thompson, M.P., whose house is +<!-- Page -4 --><a name="Page_xxviii" id="Page_xxviii" title="xxviii" class="pagenum"></a>rarely free from one or more of those who have +acquired the designation of his "American constituents." +This want has recently been attempted +to be supplied, partly through Mr. Brown's exertions, +and partly by the establishment of the +Anglo-American Anti-Slavery Association.</p> + +<p>On the 1st of August, 1851, a meeting of the +most novel character was held at the Hall of +Commerce, London, being a soiree given by +fugitive slaves in this country to Mr. George +Thompson, on his return from his American mission +on behalf of their race. That meeting was most +ably presided over by Mr. Brown, and the speeches +made upon the occasion by fugitive slaves were of +the most interesting and creditable description. +Although a residence in Canada is infinitely preferable +to slavery in America, yet the climate of that +country is uncongenial to the constitutions of the +fugitive slaves, and their lack of education is an +almost insuperable barrier to their social progress. +The latter evil Mr. Brown attempted to remedy +by the establishment of a Manual Labour School +in Canada.</p> + +<p>A public meeting, attended by between 3000 +and 4000 persons, was convened by Mr. Brown, +on the 6th of January, 1851, in the City Hall, +Glasgow, presided over by Mr. Hastie, one of the +representatives of that city, at which meeting a +resolution was unanimously passed approving of +Mr. Brown's scheme, which scheme, however, +never received that amount of support which +would have enabled him to bring it into practice; +and the plan at present only remains as an +evidence of its author's ingenuity and desire for +<!-- Page -3 --><a name="Page_xxix" id="Page_xxix" title="xxix" class="pagenum"></a>the elevation of his depressed race. Mr. Brown +subsequently made, through the columns of the +<i>Times</i> newspaper, a proposition for the emigration +of American fugitive slaves, under fair and honourable +terms, to the West Indies, where there is a +great lack of that tillage labour which they are so +capable of undertaking. This proposition has +hitherto met with no better fate than its predecessor.</p> + +<p>Mr. Brown's literary abilities may be partly +judged of from the following pages. The amount +of knowledge and education he has acquired under +circumstances of no ordinary difficulty, is a striking +proof of what can be done by combined genius +and industry. His proficiency as a linguist, without +the aid of a master, is considerable. His +present work is a valuable addition to the stock of +English literature. The honour which has hitherto +been paid, and which, so long as he resides upon +British soil, will no doubt continue to be paid to his +character and talents, must have its influence in +abating the senseless prejudice of colour in +America, and hastening the time when the object +of his mission, the abolition of the slavery of his +native country, shall be accomplished, and that +young Republic renouncing with penitence its +national sin, shall take its proper place amongst +the most free, civilized, and Christian nations of +the earth.</p> + +<p class="quotdate"> +W.F. +</p> + +<div><!-- Page -2 blank--><a name="Page_xxx" id="Page_xxx" title="xxx"></a><!-- Page -1 --><a name="Page_xxxi" id="Page_xxxi" title="xxxi" class="pagenum"></a></div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="PREFACE" id="PREFACE"></a>PREFACE.</h2> + + +<p>While I feel conscious that most of the contents +of these Letters will be interesting chiefly to +American readers, yet I may indulge the hope, +that the fact of their being the first production of +a Fugitive Slave, as a history of travels, may carry +with them novelty enough to secure for them, to +some extent, the attention of the reading public +of Great Britain. Most of the letters were +written for the private perusal of a few personal +friends in America; some were contributed to +"Frederick Douglass's paper," a journal published +in the United States. In a printed circular sent +some weeks since to some of my friends, asking +subscriptions to this volume, I stated the reasons +for its publication: these need not be repeated +<!-- Page 0 --><a name="Page_xxxii" id="Page_xxxii" title="xxxii" class="pagenum"></a>here. To those who so promptly and kindly +responded to that appeal, I tender my most sincere +thanks. It is with no little diffidence that I +lay these letters before the public; for I am not +blind to the fact, that they must contain many +errors; and to those who shall find fault with +them on that account, it may not be too much for +me to ask them kindly to remember, that the +author was a slave in one of the Southern States +of America, until he had attained the age of +twenty years; and that the education he has +acquired, was by his own exertions, he never having +had a day's schooling in his life.</p> + +<p class="quotdate"> +W. WELLS BROWN.</p> +<p> +22, CECIL STREET, STRAND,<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">LONDON.</span> +</p> + + + +<div><!-- Page 1 --><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1" title="1" class="pagenum"></a></div> +<!-- Repeat title not needed +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="THREE_YEARS_IN_EUROPE" id="THREE_YEARS_IN_EUROPE"></a>THREE YEARS IN EUROPE;</h2> + +<p>OR,</p> + +<p>PLACES I HAVE SEEN AND PEOPLE I HAVE MET.</p> +--> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="LETTER_I" id="LETTER_I"></a>LETTER I.</h2> + +<h3>Departure from Boston—the Passengers—Halifax—the +Passage—First Sight of Land—Liverpool.</h3> + + +<p class="quotdate"><span style="font-variant: small-caps;">Liverpool</span>, <i>July 28</i>.</p> + +<p><span style="font-variant: small-caps;">On</span> the 18th July, 1849, I took passage in the +steam-ship <i>Canada</i>, Captain Judkins, bound for +Liverpool. The day was a warm one; so much +so, that many persons on board, as well as several +on shore, stood with their umbrellas up, so intense +was the heat of the sun. The ringing of +the ship's bell was a signal for us to shake hands +with our friends, which we did, and then stepped +on the deck of the noble craft. The <i>Canada</i> +quitted her moorings at half-past twelve, and we +<!-- Page 2 --><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2" title="2" class="pagenum"></a>were soon in motion. As we were passing out of +Boston Bay, I took my stand on the quarter-deck, +to take a last farewell (at least for a time), of my +native land. A visit to the old world, up to that +time had seemed but a dream. As I looked back +upon the receding land, recollections of the past +rushed through my mind in quick succession. +From the treatment that I had received from the +Americans as a victim of slavery, and the knowledge +that I was at that time liable to be seized +and again reduced to whips and chains, I had +supposed that I would leave the country without +any regret; but in this I was mistaken, for when +I saw the last thread of communication cut off +between me and the land, and the dim shores +dying away in the distance, I almost regretted +that I was not on shore.</p> + +<p>An anticipated trip to a foreign country appears +pleasant when talking about it, especially +when surrounded by friends whom we love; but +when we have left them all behind, it does not +seem so pleasant. Whatever may be the fault +of the government under which we live, and no +matter how oppressive her laws may appear, yet +<!-- Page 3 --><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3" title="3" class="pagenum"></a>we leave our native land (if such it be) with feelings +akin to sorrow. With the steamer's powerful +engine at work, and with a fair wind, we were +speedily on the bosom of the Atlantic, which was +as calm and as smooth as our own Hudson in its +calmest aspect. We had on board above one hundred +passengers, forty of whom were the "<ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: "Vienneise" in the original text">Viennese</ins> +children"—a troop of dancers. The passengers +represented several different nations, English, +French, Spaniards, Africans, and Americans. One +man who had the longest pair of mustaches that +mortal man was ever doomed to wear, especially +attracted my attention. He appeared to belong +to no country in particular, but was yet the busiest +man on board. After viewing for some time +the many strange faces around me, I descended +to the cabin to look after my luggage, which had +been put hurriedly on board. I hope that all +who take a trip of so great a distance may be as +fortunate as I was, in being supplied with books +to read on the voyage. My friends had furnished +me with literature, from "Macaulay's History of +England" to "Jane Eyre," so that I did not want +for books to occupy my time.</p> + +<p><!-- Page 4 --><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4" title="4" class="pagenum"></a>A pleasant passage of about thirty hours, +brought us to Halifax, at six o'clock in the evening. +In company with my friend the President +of the Oberlin Institute, I took a stroll through +the town; and from what little I saw of the +people in the streets, I am sure that the taking of +the Temperance pledge would do them no injury. +Our stay at Halifax was short. Having taken in +a few sacks of coals, the mails, and a limited +number of passengers, we were again out, and +soon at sea. After a pleasant run of seven days +more, and as I was lying in my bed, I heard the +cry of "Land a-head." Although our passage had +been unprecedentedly short, yet I need not inform +you that this news was hailed with joy by all on +board. For my own part, I was soon on deck. +Away in the distance, and on our larboard +quarter, were the grey hills of Ireland. Yes! +we were in sight of the land of <ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: "Emmitt" in the original text">Emmett</ins> and +O'Connell. While I rejoiced with the other passengers +at the sight of land, and the near approach +to the end of the voyage, I felt low spirited, +because it reminded me of the great distance I +was from home. But the experience of above +<!-- Page 5 --><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5" title="5" class="pagenum"></a>twenty years' travelling, had prepared me to +undergo what most persons must lay their account +with, in visiting a strange country. This was the +last day but one that we were to be on board; +and as if moved by the sight of land, all seemed +to be gathering their different things together—brushing +up their old clothes and putting on their +new ones, as if this would bring them any sooner +to the end of their journey.</p> + +<p>The last night on board was the most pleasant, +apparently, that we had experienced; probably, +because it was the last. The moon was in her +meridian splendour, pouring her broad light over +the calm sea; while near to us, on our starboard +side, was a ship with her snow-white sails spread +aloft, and stealing through the water like a thing +of life. What can present a more picturesque +view, than two vessels at sea on a moonlight +night, and within a few rods of each other? +With a gentle breeze, and the powerful engine at +work, we seemed to be flying to the embrace of +our British neighbours.</p> + +<p>The next morning I was up before the sun, and +found that we were within a few miles of Liver<!-- Page 6 --><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6" title="6" class="pagenum"></a>pool. +The taking of a pilot on board at eleven +o'clock, warned us to prepare to quit our ocean +palace and seek other quarters. At a little past +three o'clock, the ship cast anchor, and we were +all tumbled, bag and baggage, into a small +steamer, and in a few moments were at the door +of the Custom-House. The passage had only been +nine days and twenty-two hours, the quickest on +record at that time, yet it was long enough. I +waited nearly three hours before my name was +called, and when it was, I unlocked my trunks +and handed them over to one of the officers, whose +dirty hands made no improvement on the work of +the laundress. First one article was taken out, +and then another, till an <i>Iron Collar</i> that had +been worn by a female slave on the banks of the +Mississippi, was hauled out, and this democratic +instrument of torture became the centre of attraction; +so much so, that instead of going on with +the examination, all hands stopped to look at the +"Negro Collar."</p> + +<p>Several of my countrymen who were standing +by, were not a little displeased at answers which I +gave to questions on the subject of Slavery; but +<!-- Page 7 --><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7" title="7" class="pagenum"></a>they held their peace. The interest created by +the appearance of the Iron Collar, closed the +examination of my luggage. As if afraid that they +would find something more hideous, they put the +Custom-House mark on each piece, and passed +them out, and I was soon comfortably installed at +Brown's Temperance Hotel, Clayton Square.</p> + +<p><br /> +No person of my complexion can visit this +country without being struck with the marked difference +between the English and the Americans. +The prejudice which I have experienced on all and +every occasion in the United States, and to some +extent on board the <i>Canada</i>, vanished as soon as +I set foot on the soil of Britain. In America I +had been bought and sold as a slave, in the +Southern States. In the so-called free States, I +had been treated as one born to occupy an +inferior position,—in steamers, compelled to take +my fare on the deck; in hotels, to take my +meals in the kitchen; in coaches, to ride on the +outside; in railways, to ride in the "negro car;" +and in churches, to sit in the "negro pew." But +no sooner was I on British soil, than I was +<!-- Page 8 --><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8" title="8" class="pagenum"></a>recognised as a man, and an equal. The very +dogs in the streets appeared conscious of my +manhood. Such is the difference, and such is the +change that is brought about by a trip of nine +days in an Atlantic steamer.</p> + +<p>I was not more struck with the treatment of +the people, than with the appearance of the great +seaport of the world. The grey appearance of the +stone piers and docks, the dark look of the magnificent +warehouses, the substantial appearance of +every thing around, causes one to think himself in +a new world instead of the old. Every thing in +Liverpool looks old, yet nothing is worn out. +The beautiful <ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: Erratum applied, "villages" in the original text">villas</ins> on the opposite side of the +river, in the vicinity of Birkenhead, together with +the countless number of vessels in the river, and +the great ships to be seen in the stream, give life +and animation to the whole scene.</p> + +<p>Every thing in and about Liverpool seems to be +built for the future as well as the present. We +had time to examine but few of the public buildings, +the first of which was the Custom-House, +an edifice that would be an ornament to any city +in the world.</p> + +<p><!-- Page 9 --><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9" title="9" class="pagenum"></a>For the first time in my life, I can say "I am +truly free." My old master may make his appearance +here, with the Constitution of the United +States in his pocket, the Fugitive Slave Law in +one hand and the chains in the other, and claim +me as his property, but all will avail him nothing. +I can here stand and look the tyrant in the face, +and tell him that I am his equal! England is, +indeed, the "land of the free, and the home of +the brave."</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="LETTER_II" id="LETTER_II"></a>LETTER II.</h2> + +<h3>Trip to Ireland—Dublin—Her Majesty's Visit—Illumination +of the City—the Birth-Place +of Thomas Moore—a Reception.</h3> + + +<p class="quotdate"><span style="font-variant: small-caps;">Dublin</span>, <i>August 6</i>.</p> + +<p><span style="font-variant: small-caps;">After</span> remaining in Liverpool two days, I took +passage in the little steamer <i>Adelaide</i> for this +city. The wind being high on the night of our +voyage, the vessel had scarcely got to sea ere we +<!-- Page 10 --><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10" title="10" class="pagenum"></a>were driven to our berths; and though the distance +from Liverpool to Dublin is short, yet, +strange to say, I witnessed more effects of the sea +and rolling of the steamer upon the passengers, +than was to be seen during the whole of our +voyage from America. We reached Kingstown, +five miles below Dublin, after a passage of nearly +fifteen hours, and were soon seated on a car, and +on our way to the city. While coming into the +bay, one gets a fine view of Dublin and the surrounding +country. Few sheets of water make a +more beautiful appearance than Dublin Bay. We +found it as still and smooth as a mirror, with a +soft mist on its surface—a strange contrast to the +boisterous sea that we had left a moment before.</p> + +<p>The curious phrases of the Irish sounded +harshly upon my ear, probably, because they +were strange to me. I lost no time on reaching +the city in seeking out some to whom I had letters +of introduction, one of whom gave me an invitation +to make his house my home during my stay, +an invitation which I did not think fit to decline.</p> + +<p>Dublin, the Metropolis of Ireland, is a city of +above two hundred thousand inhabitants, and is +<!-- Page 11 --><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11" title="11" class="pagenum"></a>considered by the people of Ireland to be the +second city in the British Empire. The Liffey, +which falls into Dublin Bay a little below the +Custom-House, divides the town into two nearly +equal parts. The streets are—some of them—very +fine, especially upper Sackville Street, in +the centre of which stands a pillar erected to +Nelson, England's most distinguished Naval +Commander. The Bank of Ireland, to which I +paid a visit, is a splendid building, and was +formerly the Parliament House. This magnificent +edifice fronts College Green, and near at hand +stands a bronze statue of William III. The +Bank and the Custom-House are two of the finest +monuments of architecture in the city; the latter +of which stands near the river Liffey, and its front +makes an imposing appearance, extending to +three hundred and seventy-five feet. It is built +of Portland stone, and is adorned with a beautiful +portico in the centre, consisting of four Doric +columns supporting an enriched entablature, +decorated with a group of figures in alto-relievo, +representing Hibernia and Britannia presenting +emblems of peace and liberty. A magnificent +<!-- Page 12 --><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12" title="12" class="pagenum"></a>dome, supporting a cupola, on whose apex stands +a colossal figure of Hope, rises nobly from the +centre of the building to a height of one hundred +and twenty-five feet. It is, withal, a fine specimen +of what man can do.</p> + +<p>From this noble edifice, we bent our steps to +another part of the city, and soon found ourselves +in the vicinity of St. Patrick's, where we had a +heart-sickening view of the poorest of the poor. +All the recollections of poverty which I had ever +beheld, seemed to disappear in comparison with +what was then before me. We passed a filthy +and noisy market, where fruit and vegetable +women were screaming and begging those passing +by to purchase their commodities; while in and +about the market-place were throngs of beggars +fighting for rotten fruit, cabbage stocks, and even +the very trimmings of vegetables. On the side +walks, were great numbers hovering about the +doors of the more wealthy, and following +strangers, importuning them for "pence to buy +bread." Sickly and emaciated-looking creatures, +half naked, were at our heels at every turn. +After passing through a half dozen, or more, +<!-- Page 13 --><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13" title="13" class="pagenum"></a>of narrow and dirty streets, we returned to our +lodgings, impressed with the idea that we had +seen enough of the poor for one day.</p> + +<p>In our return home, we passed through a respectable +looking street, in which stands a small +three storey brick building, which was pointed +out to us as the birth-place of Thomas Moore, the +poet. The following verse from one of Moore's +poems was continually in my mind while viewing +this house:—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div><span style="margin-left: -.5em;">"Where is the slave, so lowly,</span></div> +<div>Condemn'd to chains unholy,</div> +<div>Who, could he burst</div> +<div>His bonds at first,</div> +<div>Would pine beneath them slowly?"</div> +</div></div> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<p>Yesterday was the Sabbath, but it had more the +appearance of a holiday than a day of rest. It had +been announced the day before, that the Royal +fleet was expected, and at an early hour on Sunday, +the entire town seemed to be on the move +towards Kingstown, and as the family with whom I +was staying followed the multitude, I was not inclined +to remain behind, and so went with them. +<!-- Page 14 --><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14" title="14" class="pagenum"></a>On reaching the station we found it utterly impossible +to get standing room in any of the trains, +much less a seat, and therefore determined to +reach Kingstown under the plea of a morning's +walk; and in this we were not alone, for during +the walk of five miles the road was filled with +thousands of pedestrians and a countless number +of carriages, phaetons, and vehicles of a more +humble order.</p> + +<p>We reached the lower town in time to get a +good dinner, and rest ourselves before going to +make further searches for Her Majesty's fleet. +At a little past four o'clock, we observed the multitude +going towards the pier, a number of whom +were yelling at the top of their voices, "It's coming, +it's coming;" but on going to the quay, we +found that a false alarm had been given. However, +we had been on the look-out but a short +time, when a column of smoke rising as it were +out of the sea, announced that the Royal fleet was +near at hand. The concourse in the vicinity of +the pier was variously estimated at from eighty to +one hundred thousand.</p> + +<p>It was not long before the five steamers were +<!-- Page 15 --><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15" title="15" class="pagenum"></a>entering the harbour, the one bearing Her Majesty +leading the way. As each vessel had a +number of distinguished persons on board, the +people appeared to be at a loss to know which was +the Queen; and as each party made its appearance +on the promenade deck, they were received with +great enthusiasm, the party having the best looking +lady being received with the greatest applause. +The Prince of Wales, and Prince Alfred, while +crossing the deck were recognised and greeted +with three cheers; the former taking off his hat +and bowing to the people, showed that he had had +some training as a public man although not ten +years of age. But not so with Prince Alfred; for, +when his brother turned to him and asked him to +take off his hat and make a bow to the people, he +shook his head and said, "No." This was received +with hearty laughter by those on board, +and was responded to by the thousands on shore. +But greater applause was yet in store for the +young prince; for the captain of the steamer being +near by, and seeing that the Prince of Wales +could not prevail on his brother to take off his +hat, stepped up to him and undertook to take it +<!-- Page 16 --><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16" title="16" class="pagenum"></a>off for him, when, seemingly to the delight of all, +the prince put both hands to his head and held +his hat fast. This was regarded as a sign of courage +and future renown, and was received with the +greatest enthusiasm—many crying out, "Good, +good: he will make a brave king when his day +comes."</p> + +<p>After the greetings and applause had been +wasted on many who had appeared on deck, all at +once, as if by some magic power, we beheld a +lady rather small in stature, with auburn or +reddish hair, attired in a plain dress, and wearing +a sky-blue bonnet, standing on the larboard +paddle-box, by the side of a tall good-looking +man, with mustaches. The thunders of applause +that now rent the air, and cries of "The Queen, +the Queen," seemed to set at rest the question of +which was Her Majesty. But a few moments were +allowed to the people to look at the Queen, +before she again disappeared; and it was understood +that she would not be seen again that +evening. A rush was then made for the railway, +to return to Dublin.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + + +<p class="quotdate"><!-- Page 17 --><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17" title="17" class="pagenum"></a><i>August 8</i>.</p> + +<p><span style="font-variant: small-caps;">Yesterday</span> was a great day in Dublin. At an +early hour the bells began their merry peals, and +the people were soon seen in groups in the streets +and public squares. The hour of ten was fixed +for the procession to leave Kingstown, and it was +expected to enter the city at eleven. The +windows of the houses in the streets through +which the Royal train was to pass, were at a +premium, and seemed to find ready occupants.</p> + +<p>Being invited the day previous to occupy part +of a window in Upper Sackville Street, I was +stationed at my allotted place, at an early hour, +with an out-stretched neck and open eyes. My +own colour differing from those about me, I +attracted not a little attention from many; and +often, when gazing down the street to see if the +Royal procession was in sight, would find myself +eyed by all around. But neither while at the +window, or in the streets, was I once insulted. +This was so unlike the American prejudice, that +it seemed strange to me. It was near twelve +o'clock before the procession entered Sackville +Street, and when it did all eyes seemed to beam +<!-- Page 18 --><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18" title="18" class="pagenum"></a>with delight. The first carriage contained only +Her Majesty and the Prince Consort; the second, +the Royal children; and the third, the Lords in +Waiting. Fifteen carriages were used by those +that made up the Royal party. I had a full view +of the Queen and all who followed in the train. +Her Majesty—whether from actual love for her +person, or the novelty of the occasion, I know +not which—was received everywhere with the +greatest enthusiasm. One thing, however, is +certain, and that is—Queen Victoria is beloved +by her subjects.</p> + +<p>But the grand <i>fete</i> was reserved for the evening. +Great preparations had been made to have a +grand illumination on the occasion, and hints +were thrown out that it would surpass anything +ever witnessed in London. In this they were +not far out of the way; for all who witnessed +the scene admitted that it could scarcely have +been surpassed. My own idea of an illumination, +as I had seen it in the backwoods of my own +native land, dwindled into nothing when compared +with this magnificent affair.</p> + +<p>In company with a few friends, and a +<!-- Page 19 --><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19" title="19" class="pagenum"></a>lady under my charge, I undertook to pass +through Sackville and one or two other streets, +about eight o'clock in the evening, but we +found it utterly impossible to proceed. Masses +thronged the streets, and the wildest enthusiasm +seemed to prevail. In our attempt to cross +the bridge, we were wedged in and lost our companions; +and on one occasion I was separated from +the lady, and took shelter under a cart standing +in the street. After being jammed and pulled +about for nearly two hours, I returned to my +lodgings, where I found part of my company, who +had come in one after another. At eleven o'clock +we had all assembled, and each told his adventures +and "hairbreadth escapes;" and nearly +every one had lost a pocket handkerchief or something +of the kind: my own was among the missing. +However, I lost nothing; for a benevolent +lady, who happened to be one of the company, +presented me with one which was of far more +value than the one I had lost.</p> + +<p>Every one appeared to enjoy the holiday which +the Royal visit had caused. But the Irish are +indeed a strange people. How varied their +<!-- Page 20 --><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20" title="20" class="pagenum"></a>aspect—how contradictory their character. Ireland, +the land of genius and degradation—of +great resources and unparalleled poverty—noble +deeds and the most revolting crimes—the land of +distinguished poets, splendid orators, and the +bravest of soldiers—the land of ignorance and +beggary! Dublin is a splendid city, but its +splendour is that of chiselled marble rather than +real life. One cannot behold these architectural +monuments without thinking of the great men +that Ireland has produced. The names of Burke, +Sheridan, Flood, Grattan, O'Connell, and Shiel, +have become as familiar to the Americans as +household words. Burke is known as the statesman; +Sheridan for his great speech on the trial +of Warren Hastings; Grattan for his eloquence; +O'Connell as the agitator; and Shiel as the +accomplished orator.</p> + +<p>But of Ireland's sons, none stands higher in +America than Thomas Moore, the Poet. The +vigour of his sarcasm, the glow of his enthusiasm, +the coruscations of his fancy, and the flashing of +his wit, seem to be as well understood in the new +world as the old; and the support which his pen +<!-- Page 21 --><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21" title="21" class="pagenum"></a>has given to civil and religious liberty throughout +the world, entitled the Minstrel of Erin to this +elevated position.</p> + +<p>Before leaving America I had heard much of +the friends of my enslaved countrymen residing +in Ireland; and the reception I met with on all +hands while in public, satisfied me that what I +had heard had not been exaggerated. To the +Webbs, Allens, and Haughtons, of Dublin, the +cause of the American slave is much indebted.</p> + +<p>I quitted Dublin with a feeling akin to leaving +my native land.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="LETTER_III" id="LETTER_III"></a>LETTER III.</h2> + +<h3>Departure from Ireland—London—Trip to Paris—Paris—The +Peace Congress: first day—Church +of the Madeleine—Column Vendome—the +French.</h3> + + +<p class="quotdate"><span style="font-variant: small-caps;">Paris</span>, <i>August 23</i>.</p> + +<p><span style="font-variant: small-caps;">After</span> a pleasant sojourn of three weeks in Ireland, +I took passage in one of the mail steamers +<!-- Page 22 --><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22" title="22" class="pagenum"></a>for Liverpool, and arriving there was soon on +the road to the metropolis. The passage from +Dublin to Liverpool was an agreeable one. The +rough sea that we passed through on going to +Ireland had given way to a dead calm, and our +noble little steamer, on quitting the Dublin wharf, +seemed to understand that she was to have it all +her own way. During the first part of the evening, +the boat appeared to feel her importance, +and, darting through the water with majestic +strides, she left behind her a dark cloud of smoke +suspended in the air like a banner; while, far +astern in the wake of the vessel, could be seen +the rippled waves sparkling in the rays of the +moon, giving strength and beauty to the splendour +of the evening.</p> + +<p>On reaching Liverpool, and partaking of a good +breakfast, for which we paid double price, we +proceeded to the railway station, and were soon +going at a rate unknown to those accustomed to +travel on one of our American railways. At a +little past two o'clock in the afternoon, we saw in +the distance the out-skirts of London. We could +get but an indistinct view, which had the appear<!-- Page 23 --><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23" title="23" class="pagenum"></a>ance +of one architectural mass, extending all round +to the horizon, and enveloped in a combination of +fog and smoke; and towering above every other +object to be seen, was the dome of St. Paul's +Cathedral.</p> + +<p>A few moments more, and we were safely +seated in a "Hansom's Patent," and on our way +to Hughes's—one of the politest men of the +George Fox stamp we have ever met. Here +we found forty or fifty persons, who, like +ourselves, were bound for the Peace Congress. +The Sturges, the Wighams, the Richardsons, the +Allens, the Thomases, and a host of others not +less distinguished as friends of peace, were of the +company—many of whom I had heard of, but +none of whom I had ever seen; yet I was not an +entire stranger to many, especially to the abolitionists. +In company with a friend, I sallied +forth after tea to take a view of the city. The +evening was fine—the dense fog and smoke having +to some extent passed away, left the stars shining +brightly, while the gas light from the street +lamps and the brilliant shop windows gave it the +appearance of day-light in a new form. "What +<!-- Page 24 --><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24" title="24" class="pagenum"></a>street is this?" we asked. "Cheapside," was the +reply. The street was thronged, and every body +seemed to be going at a rapid rate, as if there +was something of importance at the end of the +journey. Flying vehicles of every description +passing each other with a dangerous rapidity, +men with lovely women at their sides, children +running about as if they had lost their parents—all +gave a brilliancy to the scene scarcely to be +excelled. If one wished to get jammed and pushed +about, he need go no farther than Cheapside. +But every thing of the kind is done with a degree +of propriety in London, that would put the New +Yorkers to blush. If you are run over in London, +they "beg your pardon;" if they run over you in +New York, you are "laughed at:" in London, if +your hat is knocked off it is picked up and +handed to you; if, in New York, you must pick +it up yourself. There is a lack of good manners +among Americans that is scarcely known or understood +in Europe. Our stay in the great metropolis +gave us but little opportunity of seeing +much of the place; for in twenty-four hours after +our arrival we joined the rest of the delegates, +<!-- Page 25 --><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25" title="25" class="pagenum"></a>and started on our visit to our Gallic neighbours.</p> + +<p>We assembled at the London Bridge Railway +Station on Tuesday morning the 21st, a few +minutes past nine, to the number of 600. The +day was fine, and every eye seemed to glow with +enthusiasm. Besides the delegates, there were +probably not less than 600 more, who had come +to see the company start. We took our seats +and appeared to be waiting for nothing but the +iron-horse to be fastened to the train, when all at +once, we were informed that we must go to the +booking-office and change our tickets. At this +news every one appeared to be vexed. This +caused great trouble; for on returning to the +train many persons got into the wrong carriages; +and several parties were separated from their +friends, while not a few were calling out at the +top of their voices, "Where is my wife? Where is +my husband? Where is my luggage? Who's got +my boy? Is this the right train?" "What is that +lady going to do with all these children?" asked +the guard. "Is she a delegate: are all the children +delegates?" In the carriage where I had +<!-- Page 26 --><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26" title="26" class="pagenum"></a>taken my seat was a good-looking lady who gave +signs of being very much annoyed. "It is just so +when I am going anywhere: I never saw the like +in my life," said she. "I really wish I was at +home again."</p> + +<p>An hour had now elapsed, and we were still at +the station. However, we were soon on our way, +and going at express speed. In passing through +Kent we enjoyed the scenery exceedingly, as the +weather was altogether in our favour; and the drapery +which nature hung on the trees, in the part +through which we passed, was in all its gaiety. +On our arrival at Folkstone, we found three +steamers in readiness to convey the party to +Boulogne. As soon as the train stopped, a +general rush was made for the steamers; and in +a very short time the one in which I had embarked +was passing out of the harbour. The +boat appeared to be conscious that we were going +on a holy mission, and seemed to be proud of her +load. There is nothing in this wide world so +like a thing of life as a steamer, from the breathing +of her steam and smoke, the energy of her +motion, and the beauty of her shape; while the +<!-- Page 27 --><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27" title="27" class="pagenum"></a>ease with which she is managed by the command +of a single voice, makes her appear as obedient +as the horse is to the rein.</p> + +<p>When we were about half way between the two +great European Powers, the officers began to +gather the tickets. The first to whom he applied, +and who handed out his "Excursion +Ticket," was informed that we were all in the +wrong boat. "Is this not one of the boats to +take over the delegates?" asked a pretty little +lady, with a whining voice. "No, Madam," +said the captain. "You must look to the committee +for your pay," said one of the company to +the captain. "I have nothing to do with committees," +the captain replied. "Your fare, Gentlemen, +if you please."</p> + +<p>Here the whole party were again thrown into +confusion. "Do you hear that? We are in the +wrong boat." "I knew it would be so," said the +Rev. Dr. Ritchie, of Edinburgh<ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: typo, quote deleted">.</ins> "It is indeed a +pretty piece of work," said a plain-looking lady +in a handsome bonnet. "When I go travelling +again," said an elderly looking gent with an eye-glass +to his face, "I will take the phaeton and +<!-- Page 28 --><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28" title="28" class="pagenum"></a>old Dobbin." Every one seemed to lay the blame +on the committee, and not, too, without some +just grounds. However, Mr. Sturge, one of the +committee, being in the boat with us, an arrangement +was entered into, by which we were not +compelled to pay our fare the second time.</p> + +<p>As we neared the French coast, the first object +that attracted our attention was the Napoleon +Pillar, on the top of which is a statue of the +Emperor in the Imperial robes. We landed, partook +of refreshment that had been prepared for us, +and again repaired to the railway station. The +arrangements for leaving Boulogne were no +better than those at London. But after the delay +of another hour, we were again in motion.</p> + +<p>It was a beautiful country through which we +passed from Boulogne to Amiens. Straggling +cottages which bespeak neatness and comfort +abound on every side. The eye wanders over the +diversified views with unabated pleasure, and +rests in calm repose upon its superlative beauty. +Indeed, the eye cannot but be gratified at viewing +the entire country from the coast to the metropolis. +Sparkling hamlets spring up as the steam +<!-- Page 29 --><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29" title="29" class="pagenum"></a>horse speeds his way, at almost every point—showing +the progress of civilization, and the +refinement of the nineteenth century.</p> + +<p>We arrived at Paris a few minutes past twelve +o'clock at night, when, according to our tickets, +we should have been there at nine. Elihu Burritt, +who had been in Paris some days, and who had +the arrangements there pretty much his own way, +was at the station waiting the arrival of the train, +and we had demonstrated to us, the best evidence +that he understood his business. In no other +place on the whole route had the affairs been so +well managed; for we were seated in our respective +carriages and our luggage placed on the top, +and away we went to our hotels without the least +difficulty or inconvenience. The champion of an +"Ocean Penny Postage" received, as he deserved, +thanks from the whole company for his admirable +management.</p> + +<p>The silence of the night was only disturbed by +the rolling of the wheels of the omnibus, as we +passed through the dimly lighted streets. Where, +a few months before was to be seen the flash +from the cannon and the musket, and the hearing +<!-- Page 30 --><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30" title="30" class="pagenum"></a>of the cries and groans behind the barricades, +was now the stillness of death—nothing save here +and there a <i>gens d'arme</i> was to be seen going his +rounds in silence.</p> + +<p>The omnibus set us down at the hotel Bedford, +Rue de L'Arend, where, although near one +o'clock, we found a good supper waiting for us; +and, as I was not devoid of an appetite, I did my +share towards putting it out of the way.</p> + +<p>The next morning I was up at an early hour, +and out on the Boulevards to see what might be +seen. As I was passing from the Bedford to the +Place de La Concord, all at once, and as if by +some magic power, I found myself in front of the +most splendid edifice imaginable, situated at the +end of the Rue Nationale. Seeing a number of +persons entering the church at that early hour, +and recognising among them my friend the President +of the Oberlin (Ohio) Institute, and wishing +not to stray too far from my hotel before breakfast, +I followed the crowd and entered the building. +The church itself consisted of a vast nave, +interrupted by four pews on each side, fronted +with lofty fluted Corinthian columns standing on +<!-- Page 31 --><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31" title="31" class="pagenum"></a>pedestals, supporting colossal arches, bearing up +cupolas, pierced with skylights and adorned with +compartments gorgeously gilt; their corners supported +with saints and apostles in <i>alto relievo</i>. +The walls of the church were lined with rich +marble. The different paintings and figures, +gave the interior an imposing appearance. On +inquiry, I found that I was in the Church of +the Madeleine. It was near this spot that some +of the most interesting scenes occurred during +the Revolution of 1848, which dethroned Louis +Philippe. Behind the Madeleine is a small but +well supplied market; and on an esplanade east +of the edifice, a flower market is held on Tuesdays +and Fridays.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<p class="noindent">The first session of the Peace Congress is over.</p> + +<p><br /> +The Congress met this morning at 11 o'clock, +in the Salle St. Cecile, Rue de la St. Lazare. +The Parisians have no "Exeter Hall:" in fact, +there is no private hall in the city of any size, +save this, where such a meeting could be held. +This hall has been fitted up for the occasion. The +<!-- Page 32 --><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32" title="32" class="pagenum"></a>room is long, and at one end has a raised platform; +and at the opposite end is a gallery, with +seats raised one above another. On one side of +the hall was a balcony with sofas, which were +evidently the "reserved seats."</p> + +<p>The hall was filled at an early hour with the +delegates, their friends, and a good sprinkling of +the French. Occasionally, small groups of gentlemen +would make their appearance on the platform, +until it soon appeared that there was little +room left for others; and yet the officers of the +Convention had not come in. The different +countries were, many of them, represented here. +England, France, Belgium, Germany, Switzerland, +Greece, Spain, and the United States, had +each their delegates. The Assembly began to +give signs of impatience, when very soon the +train of officials made their appearance amid +great applause. Victor Hugo led the way, followed +by M. <ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: "Duguery" in the original text">Duguerry</ins>, curé of the Madeleine, +Elihu Burritt, and a host of others of less note. +Victor Hugo took the chair as President of the +Congress, supported by Vice-presidents from the +several nations represented. Mr. Richard, the +<!-- Page 33 --><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33" title="33" class="pagenum"></a>Secretary, read a dry report of the names of +societies, committees, &c., which was deemed +the opening of the Convention.</p> + +<p>The President then arose, and delivered one of +the most impressive and eloquent appeals in +favour of peace that could possibly be imagined. +The effect produced upon the minds of all present +was such as to make the author of "<i>Notre Dame +de Paris</i>" a great favourite with the Congress. +An English gentleman near me said to his friend, +"I can't understand a word of what he says, but +is it not good?" Victor Hugo concluded his +speech amid the greatest enthusiasm on the part +of the French, which was followed by hurrahs in +the old English style. The Convention was +successively addressed by the President of the +Brussels Peace Society; President Mahan of the +Oberlin (Ohio) Institute, U.S.; Henry Vincent; +and Richard Cobden. The latter was not only +the <i>lion</i> of the English delegation, but the great +man of the Convention. When Mr. Cobden +speaks, there is no want of hearers. The great +power of this gentleman lies in his facts +and his earnestness, for he cannot be called an +<!-- Page 34 --><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34" title="34" class="pagenum"></a>eloquent speaker. Mr. Cobden addressed the +Congress first in French, then in English; and, +with the single exception of Mr. Ewart, M.P., was +the only one of the English delegation that could +speak to the French in their own language.</p> + +<p>The Congress was brought to a close at five +o'clock, when the numerous audience dispersed—the +citizens to their homes, and the delegates to +see the sights.</p> + +<p>I was not a little amused at an incident that +occurred at the close of the first session. On the +passage from America, there were in the same +steamer with me, several Americans, and among +these, three or four appeared to be much annoyed +at the fact that I was a passenger, and enjoying +the company of white persons; and although I +was not openly insulted, I very often heard the +remark, that "That nigger had better be on his +master's farm," and "What could the American +Peace Society be thinking about to send a black +man as a delegate to Paris." Well, at the close +of the first sitting of the Convention, and just as I +was leaving Victor Hugo, to whom I had been +introduced by an M.P., I observed near me a +<!-- Page 35 --><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35" title="35" class="pagenum"></a>gentleman with his hat in hand, whom I recognized +as one of the passengers who had crossed +the Atlantic with me in the <i>Canada</i>, and who +appeared to be the most horrified at having a +negro for a fellow passenger. This gentleman, as +I left M. Hugo, stepped up to me and said, +"How do you do, Mr. Brown?" "You have the +advantage of me," said I. "Oh, don't you know +me; I was a fellow passenger with you from +America; I wish you would give me an introduction +to Victor Hugo and Mr. Cobden." I need +not inform you that I declined introducing this +pro-slavery American to these distinguished men. +I only allude to this, to show what a change comes +over the dreams of my white American brother, +by crossing the ocean. The man who would not +have been seen walking with me in the streets of +New York, and who would not have shaken hands +with me with a pair of tongs while on the passage +from the United States, could come with hat in +hand in Paris, and say, "I was your fellow-passenger." +From the Salle de St. Cecile, I visited +the Column Vendome, from the top of which I +obtained a fine view of Paris and its environs. +<!-- Page 36 --><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36" title="36" class="pagenum"></a>This is the Bunker Hill Monument of Paris. On +the top of this pillar is a statue of the Emperor +Napoleon, eleven feet high. The monument is +built with stone, and the outside covered with a +metallic composition, made of cannons, guns, +spikes, and other warlike implements taken from +the Russians and Austrians by Napoleon. Above +1200 cannons were melted down to help to create +this monument of folly, to commemorate the success +of the French arms in the German Campaign. +The column is in imitation of the <ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: "Trojan" in the original text">Trajan</ins> +pillar at Rome, and is twelve feet in diameter +at the base. The door at the bottom of the +pillar, and where we entered, was decorated above +with crowns of oak, surmounted by eagles, each +weighing 500 lbs. The bas-relief of the shaft +pursues a spiral direction to the capitol, and displays, +in a chronological order, the principal +actions of the French army, from the departure +of the troops from Boulogne to the battle of +Austerlitz. The figures are near three feet high, +and their number said to be two thousand. +This sumptuous monument stands on a plinth of +polished granite, surmounted by an iron railing; +<!-- Page 37 --><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37" title="37" class="pagenum"></a>and, from its size and position, has an imposing +appearance when seen from any part of the city.</p> + +<p>Everything here appears strange and peculiar—the +people not less so than their speech. The +horses, carriages, furniture, dress, and manners, +are in keeping with their language. The appearance +of the labourers in caps, resembling nightcaps, +seemed particularly strange to me. The +women without bonnets, and their caps turned +the right side behind, had nothing of the look +of our American women. The prettiest woman +I ever saw was without a bonnet, walking on +the Boulevards. While in Ireland, and during +the few days I was in England, I was struck with +the marked difference between the appearance +of the women from those of my own country. +The American women are too tall, too sallow, +and too long-featured to be called pretty. This +is most probably owing to the fact that in America +the people come to maturity earlier than in most +other countries.</p> + +<p>My first night in Paris was spent with interest. +No place can present greater street attractions +than the Boulevards of Paris. The countless +<!-- Page 38 --><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38" title="38" class="pagenum"></a>number of cafés, with tables before the doors, +and these surrounded by men with long moustaches, +with ladies at their sides, whose very +smiles give indication of happiness, together with +the sound of music from the gardens in the rear, +tell the stranger that he is in a different country +from his own.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="LETTER_IV" id="LETTER_IV"></a>LETTER IV.</h2> + +<h3>Versailles—The Palace—Second Session of the +Congress—Mr. Cobden—Henry Vincent—M. +Girardin—Abbe Duguerry—Victor Hugo: +his Speech.</h3> + + +<p class="quotdate"><span style="font-variant: small-caps;">Versailles</span>, <i>August 24</i>.</p> + +<p><span style="font-variant: small-caps;">After</span> the Convention had finished its sittings +yesterday, I accompanied Mrs. M. C—— and +sisters to Versailles, where they are residing +during the summer. It was really pleasing to see +among the hundreds of strange faces in the +Convention, those distinguished friends of the +slave from Boston.</p> + +<p><!-- Page 39 --><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39" title="39" class="pagenum"></a>Mrs. C——'s residence is directly in front of +the great palace where so many kings have made +their homes, the prince of whom was Louis XIV. +The palace is now unoccupied. No ruler has +dared to take up his residence here since Louis +XVI. and Marie <ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: "Antionette" in the original text">Antoinette</ins> were driven from it by +the mob from Paris on the 8th of October, 1789. +The town looks like the wreck of what it once +was. At the commencement of the first revolution, +it contained one hundred thousand +inhabitants; now it has only about thirty +thousand. It seems to be going back to what it +was in the time of Louis XIII., when in 1624 +he built a small brick chateau, and from it arose +the magnificent palace which now stands here, +and which attracts strangers to it from all parts +of the world.</p> + +<p>I arose this morning before the sun, and took +a walk through the grounds of the Palace, and +remained three hours among the fountains and +statuary of this more than splendid place. But as +I intend spending some days here, and shall have +better opportunities of seeing and judging, I will +defer my remarks upon Versailles for the present.</p> + +<p><!-- Page 40 --><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40" title="40" class="pagenum"></a>Yesterday was a great day in the Congress. +The session was opened by a speech from M. +Coquerel, the Protestant clergyman in Paris. +His speech was received with much applause, and +seemed to create great sensation in the Congress, +especially at the close of his remarks, when he +was seized by the hand by the Abbe Duguerry, +amid the most deafening and enthusiastic applause +of the entire multitude. The meeting was then +addressed in English by a short gentleman, of +florid complexion. His words seemed to come +without the least difficulty, and his jestures, +though somewhat violent, were evidently studied; +and the applause with which he was greeted by +the English delegation, showed that he was a +man of no little distinction among them. His +speech was one continuous flow of rapid, fervid +eloquence, that seemed to fire every heart; and +although I disliked his style, I was prepossessed +in his favour. This was Henry Vincent, and his +speech was in favour of disarmament.</p> + +<p>Mr. Vincent was followed by M. Emile de +Girardin, the editor of <i>La Presse</i>, in one of the +most eloquent speeches that I ever heard; and his +<!-- Page 41 --><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41" title="41" class="pagenum"></a>exclamation of "Soldiers of Peace," drew thunders +of applause from his own countrymen. M. +Girardin is not only the leader of the French +press, but is a writer on politics of great distinction, +and a leader of no inconsiderable party +in the National Assembly; although still a young +man, apparently not more than thirty-eight or +forty years of age.</p> + +<p>After a speech from Mr. Ewart, M.P., in French, +and another from Mr. Cobden in the same language, +the Convention was brought to a close for +the day. I spent the morning yesterday, in +visiting some of the lions of the French capital, +among which was the Louvre. The French +Government having kindly ordered, that the +members of the Peace Congress should be +admitted free, and without ticket, to all the public +works, I had nothing to do but present my card +of membership, and was immediately admitted.</p> + +<p>The first room I entered, was nearly a quarter +of a mile in length; is known as the "Long Gallery," +and contains some of the finest paintings +in the world. On entering this superb palace, +my first impression was, that all Christendom had +<!-- Page 42 --><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42" title="42" class="pagenum"></a>been robbed, that the Louvre might make a +splendid appearance. This is the Italian department, +and one would suppose by its appearance +that but few paintings had been left in Italy. +The entrance end of the Louvre was for a long +time in an unfinished state, but was afterwards +completed by that master workman, the Emperor +Napoleon. It was long thought that the building +would crumble into decay, but the genius of +the great Corsican rescued it from ruin.</p> + +<p>During our walk through the Louvre, we saw +some twenty or thirty artists copying paintings; +some had their copies finished and were going out, +others half done, while many had just commenced. +I remained some minutes near a pretty French +girl, who was copying a painting of a dog rescuing +a child from a stream of water into which it had +fallen.</p> + +<p>I walked down one side of the hall and up the +other, and was about leaving, when I was informed +that this was only one room, and that a half-dozen +more were at my service; but a clock on a +neighbouring church reminded me that I must +quit the Louvre for the Salle de St. Cecile.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<p><!-- Page 43 --><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43" title="43" class="pagenum"></a>This morning the Hall was filled at an early +hour with rather a more fashionable looking audience +than on any former occasion, and all appeared +anxious for the Congress to commence its +session, as it was understood to be the last day. +After the reading of several letters from gentlemen, +apologising for their not being able to +attend, the speech of Elihu Burritt was read by a +son of M. Coquerel. I felt somewhat astonished +that my countryman, who was said to be master +of fifty languages, had to get some one to read +his speech in French.</p> + +<p>The Abbe Duguerry now came forward amid +great cheering, and said that "the eminent journalist, +Girardin, and the great English logician, +Mr. Cobden, had made it unnecessary for any +further advocacy in that assembly of the Peace +cause—that if the principles laid down in the resolutions +were carried out, the work would be +done. He said that the question of general +pacification was built on truth—truth which emanated +from God—and it were as vain to undertake +to prevent air from expanding as to check +<!-- Page 44 --><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44" title="44" class="pagenum"></a>the progress of truth. It must and would prevail."</p> + +<p>A pale, thin-faced gentleman next ascended +the platform (or tribune, as it was called) amid +shouts of applause from the English, and began +his speech in rather a low tone, when compared +with the sharp voice of Vincent, or the thunder +of the Abbe Duguerry. An audience is not apt +to be pleased or even contented with an inferior +speaker, when surrounded by eloquent men, and +I looked every moment for manifestations of disapprobation, +as I felt certain that the English +delegation had made a mistake in applauding this +gentleman who seemed to make such an unpromising +beginning. But the speaker soon began +to get warm on the subject, and even at times +appeared as if he had spoken before. In a very +short time, with the exception of his own voice, +the stillness of death prevailed throughout the +building<ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: typo, added full-stop">.</ins> The speaker, in the delivery of one of +the most logical speeches made in the Congress, +and despite of his thin, sallow look, interested me +much more than any whom I had before heard. +Towards the close of his remarks, he was several +<!-- Page 45 --><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45" title="45" class="pagenum"></a>times interrupted by manifestations of approbation; +and finally concluded amid great cheering. +I inquired the gentleman's name, and was informed +that it was Edward Miall, editor of the +<i>Nonconformist</i>.</p> + +<p>After speeches from several others, the great +Peace Congress of 1849, which had brought men +together from nearly all the governments of +Europe, and many from America, was brought to +a final close by a speech from the President, returning +thanks for the honour that had been +conferred upon him. He said, "My address shall +be short, and yet I have to bid you adieu! How +resolve to do so? Here, during three days, have +questions of the deepest import been discussed, +examined, probed to the bottom; and during these +discussions, counsels have been given to governments +which they will do well to profit by. If +these days' sittings are attended with no other +result, they will be the means of sowing in the +minds of those present, gems of cordiality which +must ripen into good fruit. England, France, +Belgium, Europe, and America, would all be +drawn closer by these sittings. Yet the moment +<!-- Page 46 --><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46" title="46" class="pagenum"></a>to part has arrived, but I can feel that we are +strongly united in heart. But before parting I +may congratulate you and myself on the result of +our proceedings. We have been all joined together +without distinction of country; we have +all been united in one common feeling during +our three days' communion. The good work +cannot go back, it must advance, it must be +accomplished. The course of the future may be +judged of by the sound of the footsteps of the +past. In the course of that day's discussion, a +reminiscence had been handed up to one of the +speakers, that this was the anniversary of the +dreadful massacre of St. Bartholomew: the rev. +gentleman who was speaking turned away from +the thought of that sanguinary scene with pious +horror, natural to his sacred calling. But I, who +may boast of firmer nerve, I take up the remembrance. +Yes, it was on this day, two hundred +and seventy-seven years ago, that Paris was +roused from slumber by the sound of that bell +which bore the name of <i>cloche d'argent</i>. +Massacre was on foot, seeking with keen eye +for its victim—man was busy in slaying man. +<!-- Page 47 --><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47" title="47" class="pagenum"></a>That slaughter was called forth by mingled passions +of the worst description. Hatred of all kinds was +there urging on the slayer—hatred of a religious, +a political, a personal character. And yet on the +anniversary of that same day of horror, and in +that very city whose blood was flowing like water, +has God this day given a rendezvous to men of +peace, whose wild tumult is transformed into +order, and animosity into love. The stain of +blood is blotted out, and in its place beams +forth a ray of holy light. All distinctions are +removed, and Papist and Huguenot meet together +in friendly communion. (Loud cheers.) +Who that thinks of these amazing changes can +doubt of the progress that has been made? But +whoever denies the force of progress must deny +God, since progress is the boon of Providence, +and emanated from the great Being above. I +feel gratified for the change that has been effected, +and, pointing solemnly to the past, I say let +this day be ever held memorable—let the 24th of +August, 1572, be remembered only for the purpose +of being compared with the 24th of August, +1849; and when we think of the latter, and +<!-- Page 48 --><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48" title="48" class="pagenum"></a>ponder over the high purpose to which it has +been devoted—the advocacy of the principles of +peace—let us not be so wanting in reliance on +Providence as to doubt for one moment of the +eventful success of our holy cause."</p> + +<p>The most enthusiastic cheers followed this +interesting speech. A vote of thanks to the +government, and three times three cheers, with +Mr. Cobden as "fugleman," ended the great +Peace Congress of 1849.</p> + +<p>Time for separating had arrived, yet all seemed +unwilling to leave the place, where for three days +men of all creeds and of no creed had met upon +one common platform. In one sense the meeting +was a glorious one—in another, it was mere +child's play; for the Congress had been restricted +to the discussion of certain topics. They were +permitted to dwell on the blessings of peace, but +were not allowed to say anything about the very +subjects above all others that should have been +brought before the Congress. A French army +had invaded Rome and put down the friends of +political and religious freedom, yet not a word +was said in reference to it. The fact is, the Com<!-- Page 49 --><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49" title="49" class="pagenum"></a>mittee +permitted the Congress to be <i>gagged</i>, before +it had met. They put padlocks upon their +own mouths, and handed the keys to the government. +And this was sorely felt by many of the +speakers. Richard Cobden, who had thundered +his anathemas against the Corn Laws of his own +country, and against wars in every clime, had to +sit quiet in his fetters. Henry Vincent, who can +make a louder speech in favour of peace, than almost +any other man, and whose denunciations of +"all war," have gained him no little celebrity +with peace men, had to confine himself to the +blessings of peace. Oh! how I wished for a +Massachusetts atmosphere, a New England Convention +platform, with Wendell Phillips as the +speaker, before that assembled multitude from all +parts of the world.</p> + +<p>But the Congress is over, and cannot now be +made different; yet it is to be hoped that neither +the London Peace Committee, nor any other men +having the charge of getting up such another +great meeting, will commit such an error again.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<div><!-- Page 50 --><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50" title="50" class="pagenum"></a></div> +<h2><a name="LETTER_V" id="LETTER_V"></a>LETTER V.</h2> + +<h3>M. de Tocqueville's Grand Soiree—Madame de +Tocqueville—Visit of the Peace Delegates to +Versailles—The Breakfast—Speechmaking—The +Trianons—Waterworks—St. Cloud—The +<ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: "Fète" in the original text">Fête</ins>. +</h3> + + +<p class="quotdate"><span style="font-variant: small-caps;">Versailles</span>, <i>August 24</i>.</p> + +<p><span style="font-variant: small-caps;">The</span> day after the close of the Congress, the +delegates and their friends were invited to a +<ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: "soirèe" in the original text">soirée</ins> by M. de Tocqueville, Minister for +Foreign Affairs, to take place on the next evening +(Saturday); and, as my coloured face and curly +hair did not prevent my getting an invitation, I +was present with the rest of my peace brethren.</p> + +<p>Had I been in America, where colour is considered +a crime, I would not have been seen at +such a gathering, unless as a servant. In company +with several delegates, we left the Bedford +Hotel for the mansion of the Minister of Foreign +Affairs; and, on arriving, we found a file of +soldiers drawn up before the gate. This did not +<!-- Page 51 --><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51" title="51" class="pagenum"></a>seem much like peace: however, it was merely +done in honour of the company. We entered the +building through massive doors and resigned ourselves +into the hands of good-looking waiters in +white wigs; and, after our names were duly +announced, were passed from room to room till I +was presented to Madame de Tocqueville, who was +standing near the centre of the large drawing-room, +with a bouquet in her hand. I was about +passing on, when the gentleman who introduced +me intimated that I was an "American slave." +At the announcement of this fact the distinguished +lady extended her hand and gave me a cordial +welcome—at the same time saying, "I hope you +feel yourself free in Paris." Having accepted an +invitation to a seat by the lady's side, who seated +herself on a sofa, I was soon what I most dislike, +"the observed of all observers." I recognised +among many of my own countrymen, who were +gazing at me, the American Consul, Mr. Walsh. +My position did not improve his looks. The +company present on this occasion were variously +estimated at from one thousand to fifteen hundred. +Among these were the Ambassadors from the +<!-- Page 52 --><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52" title="52" class="pagenum"></a>different countries represented at the French +metropolis, and many of the <i>elite</i> of Paris. One +could not but be interested with the difference in +dress, looks, and manners of this assemblage of +strangers whose language was as different as their +general appearance. Delight seemed to beam in +every countenance as the living stream floated +from one room to another. The house and gardens +were illuminated in the most gorgeous manner. +Red, yellow, blue, green, and many other +coloured lamps, suspended from the branches of +the trees in the gardens, gave life and animation +to the whole scene out of doors. The <ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: "soirèe" in the original text">soirée</ins> +passed off satisfactorily to all parties; and by +twelve o'clock I was again at my Hotel.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<p>Through the politeness of the government the +members of the Congress have not only had the +pleasure of seeing all the public works free, and +without special ticket, but the palaces of Versailles +and St. Cloud, together with their splendid +grounds, have been thrown open, and the water-works +set to playing in both places. This mark +of respect for the Peace movement is commendable +<!-- Page 53 --><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53" title="53" class="pagenum"></a>in the French; and were I not such a strenuous +friend of free speech, this act would cause me to +overlook the padlocks that the government put +upon our lips in the Congress.</p> + +<p>Two long trains left Paris at nine o'clock for +Versailles; and at each of the stations the company +were loudly cheered by the people who had +assembled to see them pass. At Versailles, we +found thousands at the station, who gave us a +most enthusiastic welcome. We were blessed +with a goodly number of the fair sex, who always +give life and vigour to such scenes. The train +had scarcely stopped, ere the great throng were +wending their ways in different directions, some +to the cafés to get what an early start prevented +their getting before leaving Paris, and others to +see the soldiers who were on review. But most +bent their steps towards the great palace.</p> + +<p>At eleven o'clock we were summoned to the +<i>dejeuner</i>, which had been prepared by the English +delegates in honour of their American friends. +About six hundred sat down at the tables. Breakfast +being ended, Mr. Cobden was called to the +chair, and several speeches were made. Many +<!-- Page 54 --><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54" title="54" class="pagenum"></a>who had not an opportunity to speak at the Congress, +thought this a good chance; and the written +addresses which had been studied during the +passage from America, with the hope that they +would immortalize their authors before the great +Congress, were produced at the breakfast table. +But speech-making was not the order of the day. +Too many thundering addresses had been delivered +in the Salle de St. Cecile, to allow the +company to sit and hear dryly written and worse +delivered speeches in the Teniscourt.</p> + +<p>There was no limited time given to the speakers, +yet no one had been on his feet five minutes, +before the cry was heard from all parts of the +house, "Time, time." One American was hissed +down, another took his seat with a red face, and +a third opened his bundle of paper, looked around +at the audience, made a bow, and took his seat +amid great applause. Yet some speeches were +made, and to good effect, the best of which was +by Elihu Burritt, who was followed by the Rev. +James Freeman Clark. I regretted very much +that the latter did not deliver his address before +the Congress, for he is a man of no inconsider<!-- Page 55 --><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55" title="55" class="pagenum"></a>able +talent, and an acknowledged friend of the +slave.</p> + +<p>The cry of "The water-works are playing," +"The water is on," broke up the meeting, without +even a vote of thanks to the Chairman; and +the whole party were soon revelling among the +fountains and statues of Louis XIV. Description +would fail to give a just idea of the grandeur and +beauty of this splendid place. I do not think +that any thing can surpass the fountain of Neptune, +which stands near the Grand Trianon. +One may easily get lost in wandering through +the grounds of Versailles, but he will always be +in sight of some life-like statue. These monuments, +erected to gratify the fancy of a licentious +king, make their appearance at every turn. +Two lions, the one overturning a wild boar, the +other a wolf, both the production of Fillen, pointed +out to us the fountain of Diana. But I will +not attempt to describe to you any of the very +beautiful sculptured gods and goddesses here.</p> + +<p>With a single friend I paid a visit to the two +Trianons. The larger was, we were told, just as +king Louis Philippe left it. One room was +<!-- Page 56 --><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56" title="56" class="pagenum"></a>splendidly fitted up for the reception of Her +Majesty Queen Victoria; who, it appeared, had +promised a visit to the French Court; but the +French Monarch ran away from his throne before +the time arrived. The Grand Trianon is not larger +than many noblemen's seats that may be seen in a +day's ride through any part of the British empire. +The building has only a ground floor, but its proportions +are very elegant.</p> + +<p>We next paid our respects to the Little Trianon. +This appears to be the most Republican of any of +the French palaces. I inspected this little palace +with much interest, not more for its beauty than +because of its having been the favourite residence +of that purest of Princesses, best of Queens, and +most affectionate of mothers, Marie Antoinette. +The grounds and building may be said to be only +a palace in miniature, and this makes it still a more +lovely spot. The building consists of a square +pavilion two stories high, and separated entirely +from the accessory buildings, which are on the left, +and among them a pretty chapel. But a wish +to be with the multitude, who were roving among +the fountains, cut short my visit to the trianons.</p> + +<p><!-- Page 57 --><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57" title="57" class="pagenum"></a>The day was very fine, and the whole party +seemed to enjoy it. It was said that there were +more than one hundred thousand persons at +Versailles during the day. The company appeared +to lose themselves with the pleasure of walking +among the trees, flower beds, fountains, and +statues. I met more than one wife seeking a lost +husband, and <i>vice versa</i>. Many persons were +separated from their friends and did not meet +them again till at the hotels in Paris. In the +train returning to Paris, an old gentleman who +was seated near me said, "I would rest contented +if I thought I should ever see my wife again!"</p> + +<p>At four o'clock we were <i>en route</i> to St. Cloud, +the much loved and favourite residence of the +Emperor Napoleon. It seemed that all Paris +had come out to St. Cloud to see how the English +and Americans would enjoy the playing of the +water-works. Many kings and rulers of the +French have made St. Cloud their residence, but +none have impressed their images so indelibly +upon it as Napoleon. It was here he was first +elevated to power, and here Josephine spent her +most happy hours.</p> + +<p><!-- Page 58 --><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58" title="58" class="pagenum"></a>The apartments where Napoleon was married +to Marie Louise; the private rooms of Josephine +and Marie Antoinette, were all in turn shown to +us. While standing on the balcony looking at +Paris one cannot wonder that the Emperor should +have selected this place as his residence, for a +more lovely spot cannot be found than St. Cloud.</p> + +<p>The palace is on the side of a hill, two leagues +from Paris, and so situated that it looks down +upon the French capital. Standing, as we did, +viewing Paris from St. Cloud, and the setting sun +reflecting upon the domes, spires, and towers of +the city of fashion, made us feel that this was the +place from which the monarch should watch his +subjects. From the hour of arrival at St. Cloud +till near eight o'clock, we were either inspecting +the splendid palace or roaming the grounds and +gardens, whose beautiful walks and sweet flowers +made it appear a very Paradise on earth.</p> + +<p>At eight o'clock the water-works were put in +motion, and the variagated lamps with their many +devices, displaying flowers, stars, and wheels, all +with a brilliancy that can scarcely be described, +seemed to throw everything in the shade we had +<!-- Page 59 --><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59" title="59" class="pagenum"></a>seen at Versailles. At nine o'clock the train was +announced, and after a good deal of <ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: "jambing" in the original text">jamming</ins> and +pushing about, we were again on the way to +Paris.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="LETTER_VI" id="LETTER_VI"></a>LETTER VI.</h2> + +<h3>The Tuileries—Place de la Concorde—The Egyptian +Obelisk—Palais Royal—Residence of +Robespierre—A Visit to the Room in which +Charlotte Corday killed Marat—Church de +Notre Dame—Palais de Justice—Hotel des +Invalids—National Assembly—The Elysee.</h3> + + +<p class="quotdate"><span style="font-variant: small-caps;">Paris</span>, <i>August 28</i>.</p> + +<p><span style="font-variant: small-caps;">Yesterday</span> morning I started at an early hour +for the Palace of the Tuileries. A show of my +card of membership of the Congress (which had +carried me through so many of the public buildings) +was enough to gain me immediate admission. +The attack of the mob on the palace, on +the 20th of June, 1792, the massacre of the Swiss +guard on the 10th of August of the same year, +<!-- Page 60 --><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60" title="60" class="pagenum"></a>the attack by the people in July 1830, together +with the recent flight of king Louis Philippe and +family, made me anxious to visit the old pile.</p> + +<p>We were taken from room to room, until the +entire building had been inspected. In front of +the Tuileries, are a most magnificent garden and +grounds. These were all laid out by Louis XIV., +and are left nearly as they were during that +monarch's reign. Above fifty acres surrounded +by an iron rail fence, fronts the Place de la +Concorde, and affords a place of promenade for +the Parisians. I walked the pleasing grounds, +and saw hundreds of well dressed persons walking +under the shade of the great chestnuts, or sitting +on chairs which were kept to let at two sous +a piece. Near by is the Place de Carrousel, noted +for its historical remembrances. Many incidents +connected with the several revolutions occurred +here, and it is pointed out as the place where +Napoleon reviewed that formidable army of his +before its departure for Russia.</p> + +<p>From the Tuileries, I took a stroll through the +Place de la Concorde, which has connected with it +so many acts of cruelty, that it made me shudder +<!-- Page 61 --><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61" title="61" class="pagenum"></a>as I passed over its grounds. As if to take from +one's mind the old associations of this place, the +French have erected on it, or rather given a place +to, the celebrated obelisk of Luxor, which now is +the chief attraction on the grounds. The obelisk +was brought from Egypt at an enormous expense; +for which purpose a ship was built, and several +hundred men employed above three years in its +removal. It is formed of the finest red syenite, +and covered on each side with three lines of +hieroglyphic inscriptions, commemorative of +Sesostris—the middle lines being the most +deeply cut and most carefully finished; and the +characters altogether number more than 1600. +The obelisk is of a single stone, is 72 feet in height, +weighs 500,000 lbs., and stands on a block of +granite that weighs 250,000 lbs. He who can +read Latin will see that the monument tells its +own story, but to me its characters were all +blank.</p> + +<p>It would be tedious to follow the history of this +old and venerated stone, which was taken from +the quarry 1550 years before the birth of Christ; +placed in Thebes; its removal; the journey to +<!-- Page 62 --><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62" title="62" class="pagenum"></a>the Nile, and down the Nile; thence to Cherbourg, +and lastly its arrival in Paris on the 23d of +December, 1833—just one year before I escaped +from slavery. The obelisk was raised on the spot +where it now stands, on the 25th of October, +1836, in the presence of Louis Philippe and amid +the greetings of 160,000 persons.</p> + +<p>Having missed my dinner, I crossed over to the +Palais Royal, to a dining saloon, and can assure +you that a better dinner may be had there for +five francs, than can be got in New York for twice +that sum, and especially if the person who wants +the dinner is a coloured man. I found no +prejudice against my complexion in the Palais +Royal.</p> + +<p>Many of the rooms in this once abode of +Royalty, are most splendidly furnished, and +decorated with valuable pictures. The likenesses +of Madame de Stael, J.J. Rousseau, Cromwell, +and Francis I., are among them.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<p>After several unsuccessful attempts to-day, in +company with R.D. Webb, Esq., to seek out +the house where once resided the notorious +<!-- Page 63 --><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63" title="63" class="pagenum"></a>Robespierre, I was fortunate enough to find it, but +not until I had lost the company of my friend. +The house is No. 396, Rue St. Honore, opposite +the Church of the Assumption. It stands back, +and is reached by entering a court. During the +first revolution it was occupied by M. Duplay, +with whom Robespierre lodged. The room used +by the great man of the revolution, was pointed +out to me. It is small, and the ceiling low, with +two windows looking out upon the court. The +pin upon which the blue coat once hung, is still +in the wall. While standing there, I could almost +imagine that I saw the great "Incorruptible," +sitting at the small table composing those speeches +which gave him so much power and influence in +the Convention and the Clubs.</p> + +<p>Here, the disciple of Rousseau sat and planned +how he should outdo his enemies and hold on to +his friends. From this room he went forth, +followed by his dog Brunt, to take his solitary +walk in a favourite and neighbouring field, or to +the fiery discussions of the National Convention. +In the same street, is the house in which Madame +Roland—one of Robespierre's victims—resided.</p> + +<p><!-- Page 64 --><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64" title="64" class="pagenum"></a>A view of the residence of one of the master +spirits of the French revolution inclined me to +search out more, and therefore I proceeded to +the old town, and after winding through several +small streets—some of them so narrow as not to +admit more than one cab at a time—I found +myself in the Rue de L'Ecole de Medecine, and +standing in front of house No. 20. This was the +residence, during the early days of the revolution, +of that bloodthirsty demon in human form, +Marat.</p> + +<p>I said to a butcher, whose shop was underneath, +that I wanted to see La Chambre de +Marat. He called out to the woman of the +house to know if I could be admitted, and the +reply was, that the room was used as a sleeping +apartment, and could not be seen.</p> + +<p>As this was private property, my blue card of +membership to the Congress was not available. +But after slipping a franc into the old lady's hand, +I was informed that the room was now ready. +We entered a court and ascended a flight of +stairs, the entrance to which is on the right; then +crossing to the left, we were shown into a mo<!-- Page 65 --><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65" title="65" class="pagenum"></a>derate-sized +room on the first floor, with two windows +looking out upon a yard. Here it was where +the "Friend of the People" (as he styled himself,) +sat and wrote those articles that appeared daily in +his journal, urging the people to "hang the rich +upon lamp posts." The place where the bath +stood, in which he was bathing at the time he +was killed by Charlotte Corday, was pointed out +to us; and even something representing an old +stain of blood was shown as the place where he +was laid when taken out of the bath. The window, +behind whose curtains the heroine hid, +after she had plunged the dagger into the heart +of the man whom she thought was the cause of +the shedding of so much blood by the guillotine, +was pointed out with a seeming degree of pride +by the old woman.</p> + +<p>With my Guide Book in hand, I again went +forth to "hunt after new fancies."</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<p>After walking over the ground where the guillotine +once stood, cutting off its hundred and fifty +heads per day, and then visiting the place where +some of the chief movers in that sanguinary revo<!-- Page 66 --><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66" title="66" class="pagenum"></a>lution +once lived, I felt little disposed to sleep, +when the time for it had arrived. However, I was +out this morning at an early hour, and on the +Champs Elysees; and again took a walk over the +place where the guillotine stood, when its fatal +blade was sending so many unprepared spirits +into eternity. When standing here, you have +the Palace of the Tuileries on one side, the arch +on the other; on a third, the classic Madeleine; +and on the fourth, the National Assembly. It +caused my blood to chill, the idea of being on the +identical spot where the heads of Louis XVI. and +his Queen, after being cut off, were held up to +satisfy the blood-thirsty curiosity of the two hundred +thousand persons that were assembled on +the Place de la Revolution. Here Royal blood +flowed as it never did before or since. The heads +of patricians and plebians, were thrown into the +same basket, without any regard to birth or station<ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: typo, full-stop added">.</ins> +Here Robespierre and Danton had stood +again and again, and looked their victims in the +face as they ascended the scaffold; and here, these +same men had to mount the very scaffold that they +had erected for others. I wandered up the Seine, +<!-- Page 67 --><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67" title="67" class="pagenum"></a>till I found myself looking at the statue of +Henry the IV. over the principal entrance of the +Hotel de Ville. When we take into account the +connection of the Hotel de Ville with the different +revolutions, we must come to the conclusion, +that it is one of the most remarkable buildings in +Paris. The room was pointed out where Robespierre +held his counsels, and from the windows of +which he could look out upon the Place de Greve, +where the guillotine stood before its removal to +the Place de la Concorde. The room is large, +with gilded hangings, splendid old-fashioned +chandeliers, and a chimney-piece with fine antiquated +carvings, that give it a venerable appearance. +Here Robespierre not only presided at the +counsels that sent hundreds to the guillotine; but +from this same spot, he, with his brother St. Just +and others, were dragged before the Committee of +Public Safety, and thence to the guillotine, and +justice and revenge satisfied.</p> + +<p>The window from which Lafayette addressed +the people in 1830, and presented to them Louis +Philippe, as the king, was shown to us. Here the +poet, statesman, philosopher and orator, Lamar<!-- Page 68 --><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68" title="68" class="pagenum"></a>tine, +stood in February 1848, and, by the power +of his eloquence, succeeded in keeping the people +quiet. Here he forced the mob, braved the +bayonets presented to his breast, and, by his good +reasoning, induced them to retain the tri-coloured +flag, instead of adopting the red flag, which he +considered the emblem of blood.</p> + +<p>Lamartine is a great heroic genius, dear to +liberty and to France; and successive generations, +as they look back upon the revolution of 1848, +will recall to memory the many dangers which +nothing but his dauntless courage warded off. The +difficulties which his wisdom surmounted, and the +good service that he rendered to France, can never +be adequately estimated or too highly appreciated. +It was at the Hotel de Ville that the Republic of +1848 was proclaimed to the people.</p> + +<p>I next paid my respects to the Column of July +that stands on the spot formerly occupied by the +Bastile. It is 163 feet in height, and on the top +is the Genius of Liberty, with a torch in his right +hand, and in the left a broken chain. After a +fatiguing walk up a winding stair, I obtained a +splendid view of Paris from the top of the column.</p> + +<p><!-- Page 69 --><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69" title="69" class="pagenum"></a>I thought I should not lose the opportunity of +seeing the Church de Notre Dame while so near +to it, and, therefore, made it my next rallying +point. No edifice connected with religion has +had more interesting incidents <ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: "occuring" in the original text">occurring</ins> in it than +this old church. Here Pope Pius VII. placed +the Imperial Crown on the head of the Corsican—or +rather Napoleon took the Crown from his +hands and placed it on his own head. Satan +dragging the wicked to ——; the rider on the +red horse at the opening of the second seal; the +blessedness of the saints; and several other +striking sculptured figures were among the many +curiosities in this splendid place. A hasty view +from the gallery concluded my visit to the Notre +Dame.</p> + +<p>Leaving the old church I strayed off in a +direction towards the Seine, and passed by an +old looking building of stately appearance, and +recognised, among a throng passing in and out, +a number of the members of the Peace Congress. +I joined a party entering, and was soon in +the presence of men with gowns on, and men +with long staffs in their hands—and on inquiry +<!-- Page 70 --><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70" title="70" class="pagenum"></a>found that I was in the Palais de Justice; beneath +which is the Conciergerie, a noted prison. Louis +XVI. and Marie Antoinette were tried and condemned +to death here.</p> + +<p>A bas-relief, by Cortat, representing Louis in +conference with his Counsel, is here seen. But I +had visited too many places of interest during the +day to remain long in a building surrounded by +officers of justice, and took a stroll upon the +Boulevards.</p> + +<p>The Boulevards may be termed the Regent +Street of Paris, or a New Yorker would call them +Broadway. While passing a café, my German +friend Faigo, whose company I had enjoyed +during the passage from America, recognised me, +and I sat down and took a cup of delicious coffee +for the first time on the side walk, in sight of +hundreds who were passing up and down the +street every hour. From three till eleven o'clock, +<span style="font-variant: small-caps;">P.M.</span>, the Boulevards are lined with men and +women sitting before the doors of the saloons +drinking their coffee or wines, or both at the +same time, as fancy may dictate. All Paris +appeared to be on the Boulevards, and looking +<!-- Page 71 --><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71" title="71" class="pagenum"></a>as if the great end of this life was enjoyment.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<p>Anxious to see as much as possible of Paris in +the limited time I had to stay in it, I hired a cab +yesterday morning and commenced with the +Hotel des Invalids, a magnificent building, within +a few minutes' walk of the National Assembly. +On each side of the entrance gate are figures +representing nations conquered by Louis XIV., +with colossal statues of Mars and Minerva. The +dome on the edifice is the loftiest in Paris—the +height from the ground being 323 feet.</p> + +<p>Immediately below the dome is the tomb of +the man at whose word the world turned pale. +A statue of the Emperor Napoleon stands in the +second piazza, and is of the finest bronze.</p> + +<p>This building is the home of the pensioned +soldiers of France. It was enough to make one +sick at the idea of war, to look upon the mangled +bodies of these old soldiers. Men with arms and +no legs; others had legs but no arms; some with +canes and crutches, and some wheeling themselves +about in little hand carts. About three thousand +of the decayed soldiers were lodged in the Hotel +<!-- Page 72 --><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72" title="72" class="pagenum"></a>des Invalids, at the time of my visit. Passing the +National Assembly on my return, I spent a +moment or two in it. The interior of this building +resembles an amphitheatre. It is constructed +to accommodate 900 members, each having a +separate desk. The seat upon which the Duchesse +of Orleans, and her son, the Comte de Paris, sat, +when they visited the National Assembly after +the flight of Louis Philippe, was shown with considerable +alacrity. As I left the building, I heard +that the President of the Republic was on the +point of leaving the Elysee for St. Cloud, and +with the hope of seeing the "Prisoner of Ham," +I directed my cabman to drive me to the Elysee.</p> + +<p>In a few moments we were between two files +of soldiers, and entering the gates of the palace. I +called out to the driver and told him to stop; but +I was too late, for we were now in front of the +massive doors of the palace, and a liveried servant +opened the cab door, bowed, and asked if I had +an engagement with the President. You may +easily "guess" his surprise when I told him no. +In my best French, I asked the cabman why he +had come to the palace, and was answered, "You +<!-- Page 73 --><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73" title="73" class="pagenum"></a>told me to." By this time a number had +gathered round, all making inquiries as to what I +wanted. I told the driver to retrace his steps, +and, amid the shrugs of their shoulders, the nods of +their heads, and the laughter of the soldiers, I left +the Elysee without even a sight of the President's +mustaches for my trouble. This was only one of +the many mistakes I made while in Paris.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="LETTER_VII" id="LETTER_VII"></a>LETTER VII.</h2> + +<h3>The Chateau at Versailles—Private apartments of +Marie Antoinette—The Secret Door—Paintings +of Raphael and David—Arc de Triomphe<ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: typo, final em-dash added">—</ins>Beranger +the Poet.</h3> + + +<p class="quotdate"><span style="font-variant: small-caps;">Versailles</span>, <i>August 31</i>.</p> + +<p><span style="font-variant: small-caps;">Here</span> I am, within ten leagues of Paris, spending +the time pleasantly in viewing the palace and +grounds of the great Chateau of Louis XIV. +Fifty-seven years ago, a mob, composed of men, +women, and boys, from Paris, stood in front of +<!-- Page 74 --><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74" title="74" class="pagenum"></a>this palace and demanded that the king should go +with them to the capital. I have walked over the +same ground where the one hundred thousand +stood on that interesting occasion. I have been +upon the same balcony, and stood by the window +from which Maria Antoinette looked out upon the +mob that were seeking her life.</p> + +<p>Anxious to see as much of the palace as I could, +and having an offer of the company of my young +friend, Henry G. Chapman, to go through the +palace with me, I set out early yesterday morning, +and was soon in the halls that had often +been trod by Royal feet. We passed through +the private, as well as the public, apartments, +through the secret door by which Marie Antoinette +had escaped from the mob of 1792, and +viewed the room in which her faithful guards +were killed, while attempting to save their Royal +mistress. I took my seat in one of the little +parlour carriages that had been used in days of +yore for the Royal children; while my friend, H.G. +Chapman, drew me across the room. The +superb apartments are not now in use. Silence +is written upon these walls, although upon them +<!-- Page 75 --><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75" title="75" class="pagenum"></a>are suspended the portraits of men of whom the +world has heard.</p> + +<p>Paintings, representing Napoleon in nearly all +his battles, are here seen; and wherever you see +the Emperor, there you will also find Murat, with +his white plume waving above. Callot's painting +of the battle of Marengo, Hue's of the retaking of +Genoa, and Bouchat's of the 18th Brumaire, +are of the highest order; while David has transmitted +his fame to posterity, by his splendid +painting of the Coronation of Napoleon and Josephine +in Notre Dame. When I looked upon the +many beautiful paintings of the last named artist, +that adorn the halls of Versailles, I did not wonder +that his fame should have saved his life, when +once condemned and sentenced to death during +the reign of terror. The guillotine was robbed of +its intended victim, but the world gained a great +painter. As Boswell transmitted his own name +to posterity with his life of Johnson, so has David +left his, with the magnificent paintings that are +now suspended upon the walls of the palaces of +the Louvre, the Tuileries, St. Cloud, Versailles, +and even the little Elysee.</p> + +<p><!-- Page 76 --><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76" title="76" class="pagenum"></a>After strolling from room to room, we found +ourselves in the Salle du Sacre, Diane, Salon de +Mars, de Mercure, and d'Apollon. I gazed with +my eyes turned to the ceiling till I was dizzy. +The Salon de la Guerre is covered with the most +beautiful representations that the mind of man +could conceive, or the hand accomplish. Louis +XIV. is here in all his glory. No Marie Antoinette +will ever do the honours in these halls again.</p> + +<p>After spending a whole day in the Palace and +several mornings in the Gardens, I finally bid +adieu to the bronze statue of Louis XIV. that +stands in front of the Palace, and left Versailles, +probably for ever.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + + +<p class="quotdate"><span style="font-variant: small-caps;">Paris</span>, <i>September 2</i>.</p> + +<p><span style="font-variant: small-caps;">I am</span> now on the point of quitting the French +Metropolis. I have occupied the last two days +in visiting places of note in the city. I could not +resist the inclination to pay a second visit to the +Louvre. Another hour was spent in strolling +through the Italian Hall and viewing the master-workmanship +of Raphael, the prince of painters. +<!-- Page 77 --><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77" title="77" class="pagenum"></a>Time flies, even in such a place as the Louvre +with all its attractions; and before I had seen +half that I wished, a ponderous clock near by +reminded me of an engagement, and I reluctantly +tore myself from the splendours of the place.</p> + +<p>During the rest of the day I visited the +Jardin des Plantes, and spent an hour and <ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: "a-half" in the original text">a half</ins> +pleasantly in walking among plants, flowers, and +in fact everything that could be found in any +garden in France. From this place we passed by +the column of the Bastile, and paid our respects +to the Bourse, or Exchange, one of the most +superb buildings in the city. The ground floor +and sides of the Bourse, are of fine marble, and the +names of the chief cities in the world are inscribed +on the medallions, which are under the upper +cornice. The interior of the edifice has a most +splendid appearance as you enter it.</p> + +<p>The Cemetery of Père la Chaise was too much +talked of by many of our party at the Hotel for +me to pass it by, so I took it after the Bourse. +Here lie many of the great marshals of France—the +resting place of each marked by the monument +that stands over it, except one, which is +<!-- Page 78 --><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78" title="78" class="pagenum"></a>marked only by a weeping willow and a plain +stone at its head. This is the grave of Marshal +Ney. I should not have known that it was his, +but some unknown hand had written with black +paint, "Bravest of the Brave," on the unlettered +stone that stands at the head of the man who +followed Napoleon through nearly all his battles, +and who was shot after the occupation of Paris by +the allied army. Peace to his ashes. During my +ramble through this noted place, I saw several +who were hanging fresh wreaths of everlasting +flowers on the tombs of the departed.</p> + +<p>A ride in an omnibus down the Boulevards, +and away up the Champs Elysees, brought me to +the Arc de Triomphe; and after ascending a +flight of one hundred and sixty-one steps, I was +overlooking the city of statuary. This stupendous +monument was commenced by Napoleon in +1806; and in 1811 it had only reached the +cornice of the base, where it stopped, and it was +left for Louis Philippe to finish. The first stone +of this monument was laid on the 15th of +August, 1806, the birth-day of the man whose +battles it was intended to commemorate. A +<!-- Page 79 --><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79" title="79" class="pagenum"></a>model of the arch was erected for Napoleon to +pass through as he was entering the city with +Maria Louisa, after their marriage. The inscriptions +on the monument are many, and the +different scenes here represented are all of the +most exquisite workmanship. The genius of War +is summoning the obedient nations to battle. +Victory is here crowning Napoleon after his great +success in 1810. Fame stands here recording the +exploits of the warrior, while conquered cities lie +beneath the whole. But it would take more time +than I have at command to give anything like a +description of this magnificent piece of architecture.</p> + +<p>That which seems to take most with Peace +Friends, is the portion representing an old man +taming a bull for agricultural labour; while a young +warrior is sheathing his sword, a mother and children +sitting at his feet, and Minerva crowned with +laurels, stands shedding her protecting influence +over them. The erection of this regal monument +is wonderful, to hand down to posterity the triumphs +of the man whom we first hear of as a +student in the military school at Brienne, whom +<!-- Page 80 --><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80" title="80" class="pagenum"></a>in 1784 we see in the Ecole Militaire, founded by +Louis XV. in 1751; whom again we find at No. +5, Quai de Court, near Rue de Mail; and in 1794 +as a lodger at No. 19, Rue de la Michandère. +From this he goes to the Hotel Mirabeau, Rue du +Dauphin, where he resided when he defeated his +enemies on the 13th Vendimaire. The Hotel de +la Colonade, Rue Neuve des Capuchins is his next +residence, and where he was married to Josephine. +From this hotel he removed to his wife's dwelling +in the Rue Chanteriene, No. 52. In 1796 +the young general started for Italy, where his +conquests paved the way for the ever memorable +18th Brumaire, that made him dictator of +France. Napoleon was too great now to be +satisfied with private dwellings, and we next trace +him to the Elysee, St. Cloud, Versailles, the +Tuileries, Fontainbleau, and finally, came his +decline, which I need not relate to you.</p> + +<p>After visiting the Gobelins, passing through its +many rooms, seeing here and there a half-finished +piece of tapestry; and meeting a number of the +members of the late Peace Congress, who, like +myself had remained behind to see more of the +<!-- Page 81 --><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81" title="81" class="pagenum"></a>beauties of the French capital than could be +overtaken during the Convention week. I accepted +an invitation to dine with a German gentleman +at the Palais Royal, and was soon revelling +amid the luxuries of the table. I was +glad that I had gone to the Palais Royal, for +here I had the honour of an introduction to M. +Beranger, the poet; and although I had to converse +with him through an interpreter, I enjoyed +his company very much. "The people's poet," +as he is called, is apparently about seventy years +of age, bald on the top of the head, and rather +corpulent, but of active look, and in the enjoyment +of good health. Few writers in France +have done better service to the cause of political +and religious freedom, than Pierre Jean de +Beranger. He is the dauntless friend and advocate +of the down-trodden poor and oppressed, +and has often incurred the displeasure of the +Government by the arrows that he has thrown +into their camp. He felt what he wrote; it +came straight from his heart, and went directly +to the hearts of the people. He expressed himself +strongly opposed to slavery, and said, "I +<!-- Page 82 --><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82" title="82" class="pagenum"></a>don't see how the Americans can reconcile +slavery with their professed love of freedom." +Dinner out of the way, a walk through the +different apartments, and a stroll over the court, +and I bade adieu to the Palais Royal, satisfied +that I should partake of many worse dinners +than I had helped to devour that day.</p> + +<p>Few nations are more courteous than the +French. Here the stranger, let him come from +what country he may, and be ever so unacquainted +with the people and language, he is sure of a +civil reply to any question that he may ask. +With the exception of the egregious blunder I +have mentioned of the cabman driving me to the +Elysee, I was not laughed at once while in +France.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<div><!-- Page 83 --><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83" title="83" class="pagenum"></a></div> +<h2><a name="LETTER_VIII" id="LETTER_VIII"></a>LETTER VIII.</h2> + +<h3>Departure from Paris—Boulogne—Folkstone—London—Geo. +Thompson, Esq., M.P.—Hartwell +House—Dr. Lee—Cottage of the Peasant—Windsor +Castle—Residence of Wm. Penn—England's +First Welcome—Heath Lodge—The +Bank of England</h3> + + +<p class="quotdate"><span style="font-variant: small-caps;">London</span>, <i>Sept. 8th</i>.</p> + +<p><span style="font-variant: small-caps;">The</span> sun had just appeared from behind a cloud +and was setting, and its reflection upon the +domes and spires of the great buildings in Paris +made everything appear lovely and sublime, as +the train, with almost lightning speed, was +bringing me from the French metropolis. I +gazed with eager eyes to catch a farewell glance +of the tops of the regal palaces through which I +had passed, during a stay of fifteen days in the +French capital.</p> + +<p>A pleasant ride of four hours brought us to +Boulogne, where we rested for the night. The +next morning I was up at an early hour, and out +<!-- Page 84 --><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84" title="84" class="pagenum"></a>viewing the town. Boulogne could present but +little attraction, after a fortnight spent in seeing +the lions of Paris. A return to the hotel, and +breakfast over, we stepped on board the steamer, +and were soon crossing the channel. Two hours +more, and I was safely seated in a railway +carriage, <i>en route</i> to the English metropolis. +We reached London at mid-day, where I was +soon comfortably lodged at 22, Cecil Street, +Strand. As the London lodging-houses seldom +furnish dinners, I lost no time in seeking out a +dining-saloon, which I had no difficulty in finding +in the Strand. It being the first house of the +kind I had entered in London, I was not a little +annoyed at the politeness of the waiter. The +first salutation I had, after seating myself in one +of the stalls, was, "Ox tail, Sir; gravy soup; +carrot soup, Sir; roast beef; roast pork; boiled +beef; roast lamb; boiled leg of mutton, Sir, +with caper sauce; jugged hare, Sir; boiled +knuckle of veal and bacon; roast turkey and +oyster sauce; sucking pig, Sir; curried chicken; +harrico mutton, Sir." These, and many other +dishes which I have forgotten, were called over +<!-- Page 85 --><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85" title="85" class="pagenum"></a>with a rapidity that would have done credit to +one of our Yankee pedlars, in crying his wares in +a New England village. I was so completely +taken by surprise, that I asked for a "bill of +fare," and told him to leave me. No city in +the world furnishes a cheaper, better, and quicker +meal for the weary traveller, than a London +eating-house.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<p>After spending a day in looking about through +this great thoroughfare, the Strand, I sallied +forth with letters of introduction, with which I +had been provided by my friends before leaving +America; and following the direction of one, I +was soon at No. 6, A, Waterloo Place. A +moment more, and I was in the presence of one +of whom I had heard much, and whose name is +as familiar to the friends of the slave in the +United States, as household words. Although I +had never seen him before, yet I felt a feeling +akin to love for the man who had proclaimed to +the oppressors of my race in America, the doctrine +of <i>immediate emancipation</i> for the slaves of +the great Republic. On reaching the door, I +<!-- Page 86 --><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86" title="86" class="pagenum"></a>sent in my letter; and it being fresh from the +hands of William Lloyd Garrison, the champion +of freedom in the New World, was calculated to +insure me a warm reception at the hands of the +distinguished M.P. for the Tower Hamlets. Mr. +Thompson did not wait for the servant to show +me in; but met me at the door himself, and gave +me a hearty shake of the hand, at the same time +saying, "Welcome to England. How did you +leave Garrison." I need not add, that Mr. T. gave +me the best advice, as to my course in Great Britain; +and how I could best serve the cause of my +enslaved countrymen. I never enjoyed three +hours more agreeably than those I spent with Mr. +T. on the occasion of my first visit. George +Thompson's love of freedom, his labours in behalf +of the American slave, the negroes of the West +Indies, and the wronged millions of India, are too +well known to the people of both hemispheres, to +need a word of comment from me. With the +single exception of the illustrious Garrison, no +individual is more loved and honoured by the +coloured people of America, and their friends than +Mr. Thompson.</p> + +<p><!-- Page 87 --><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87" title="87" class="pagenum"></a>A few days after my arrival in London, I received +an invitation from John Lee, Esq., LL.D., +whom I had met at the Peace Congress in Paris, +to pay him a visit at his seat, near Aylesbury; +and as the time was "fixed" by the Dr., I took +the train on the appointed day, on my way to +Hartwell House.</p> + +<p>I had heard much of the aristocracy of England, +and must confess that I was not a little prejudiced +against them. On a bright sunshine day, +between the hours of twelve and two, I found myself +seated in a carriage, my back turned upon +Aylesbury, the vehicle whirling rapidly over the +smooth macadamised road, and I on my first visit +to an English gentleman. Twenty minutes' ride, +and a turn to the right, and we were amid the +fine old trees of Hartwell Park; one having suspended +from its branches, the national banners of +several different countries; among them, the +"Stars and Stripes. I felt glad that my own +country's flag had a place there, although Campbell's +lines"—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div><span style="margin-left: -.5em;">"United States, your banner wears,</span></div> +<div>Two emblems,—one of fame;</div> +<div><!-- Page 88 --><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88" title="88" class="pagenum"></a>Alas, the other that it bears,</div> +<div>Reminds us of your shame.</div> +<div>The white man's liberty in types,</div> +<div>Stands blazoned by your stars;</div> +<div>But what's the meaning of your stripes,</div> +<div>They mean your Negro-scars"—</div> +</div></div> + +<p class="noindent"><ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: "Were" in the original text">were</ins> at the time continually running through my +mind. Arrived at the door, and we received +what every one does who visits Dr. Lee—a hearty +welcome. I was immediately shown into a room +with a lofty ceiling, hung round with fine specimens +of the Italian masters, and told that this +was my apartment. Hartwell House stands in +an extensive park, shaded with trees, that made +me think of the oaks and elms in an American +forest, and many of whose limbs had been trimmed +and nursed with the best of care. This was for +seven years the residence of John Hampden the +patriot, and more recently that of Louis XVIII., +during his exile in this country. The house is +built on a very extensive scale, and is ornamented +in the interior with carvings in wood of many of +the kings and princes of bygone centuries. A +room some 60 feet by 25 contains a variety of +<!-- Page 89 --><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89" title="89" class="pagenum"></a>articles that the Dr. has collected together—the +whole forming a museum that would be considered +a sight in the Western States of America.</p> + +<p>The morning after my arrival at Hartwell I +was up at an early hour—in fact, before any of the +servants—wandering about through the vast halls, +and trying to find my way out, in which I eventually +succeeded, but not, however, without +aid. It had rained the previous night, and the +sun was peeping through a misty cloud as I +strolled through the park, listening to the sweet +voices of the birds that were fluttering in the tops +of the trees, and trimming their wings for a +morning flight. The silence of the night had not +yet been broken by the voice of man; and I +wandered about the vast park unannoyed, except +by the dew from the grass that wet my slippers. +Not far from the house I came abruptly upon a +beautiful little pond of water, where the gold fish +were flouncing about, and the gentle ripples +glittering in the sunshine looked like so many +silver minnows playing on the surface.</p> + +<p>While strolling about with pleasure, and only +regretting that my dear daughters were not with +<!-- Page 90 --><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90" title="90" class="pagenum"></a>me to enjoy the morning's walk, I saw the +gardener on his way to the garden. I followed +him, and was soon feasting my eyes upon the +richest specimens of garden scenery. There were +the peaches hanging upon the trees that were +fastened to the wall; vegetables, fruit, and +flowers were there in all their bloom and beauty; +and even the variegated geranium of a warmer +clime, was there in its hothouse home, and +seemed to have forgotten that it was in a different +country from its own. Dr. Lee shows great taste +in the management of his garden. I have +seldom seen a more splendid variety of fruits and +flowers in the southern States of America, than I +saw at Hartwell House.</p> + +<p>I should, however, state that I was not the +only guest at Hartwell during my stay. Dr. +Lee had invited several others of the American +delegation to the Peace Congress, and two or +three of the French delegates who were on a visit +to England, were enjoying the Doctor's hospitality. +Dr. Lee is a staunch friend of Temperance, +as well as of the cause of universal freedom. +Every year he treats his tenantry to a dinner, +<!-- Page 91 --><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91" title="91" class="pagenum"></a>and I need not add that these are always conducted +on the principle of total abstinence.</p> + +<p>During the second day we visited several of the +cottages of the work people, and in these I took +no little interest. The people of the United +States know nothing of the real condition of the +labouring classes of England. The peasants of +Great Britain are always spoken of as belonging +to the soil. I was taught in America that the +English labourer was no better off than the slave +upon a Carolina rice-field. I had seen the slaves +in Missouri huddled together, three, four, and +even five families in a single room not more than +15 by 25 feet square, and I expected to see the +same in England. But in this I was disappointed. +After visiting a new house that the Doctor was +building, he took us into one of the cottages that +stood near the road, and gave us an opportunity, +of seeing, for the first time, an English peasant's +cot. We entered a low whitewashed room, with +a stone floor that showed an admirable degree of +cleanness. Before us was a row of shelves filled +with earthen dishes and pewter spoons, glittering +as if they had just come from under the hand of +<!-- Page 92 --><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92" title="92" class="pagenum"></a>a woman of taste. A Cobden loaf of bread, that +had just been left by the baker's boy, lay upon an +oaken table which had been much worn away with +the scrubbing brush; while just above lay the old +family bible that had been handed down from +father to son, until its possession was considered +of almost as great value as its contents. A half-open +door, leading into another room, showed us +a clean bed; the whole presenting as fine a +picture of neatness, order, and comfort, as the +most fastidious taste could wish to see. No +occupant was present, and therefore I inspected +everything with a greater degree of freedom. In +front of the cottage was a small grass plot, with +here and there a bed of flowers, cheated out of its +share of sunshine by the tall holly that had been +planted near it. As I looked upon the home +of the labourer, my thoughts were with my +enslaved countrymen. What a difference, thought +I, there is between the tillers of the soil in +England and America. There could not be a +more complete refutation of the assertion that the +English labourer is no better off than the +American slave, than the scenes that were then +<!-- Page 93 --><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93" title="93" class="pagenum"></a>before me. I called the attention of one of my +American friends to a beautiful rose near the +door of the cot, and said to him, "The law that +will protect that flower will also guard and +protect the hand that planted it." He knew that +I had drank deep of the cup of slavery, was aware +of what I meant, and merely nodded his head +in reply. I never experienced hospitality more +genuine, and yet more unpretending, than was +<ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: "meeted" in the original text">meted</ins> out to me while at Hartwell. And the +favourable impression made on my own mind, of +the distinguished proprietor of Hartwell Park, +was nearly as indelible as my humble name +that the Doctor had engraven in a brick, in +the vault beneath the Observatory in Hartwell +House.</p> + +<p>On my return to London I accepted an invitation +to join a party on a visit to Windsor Castle; +and taking the train at the Waterloo Bridge +Station, we were soon passing through a pleasant +part of the country. Arrived at the castle, we committed +ourselves into the hands of the servants, +and were introduced into Her Majesty's State +apartments, Audience Chamber, Vandyck Room, +<!-- Page 94 --><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94" title="94" class="pagenum"></a>Waterloo Chambers, St. George's Hall, Gold +Pantry, and many others whose names I have forgotten. +In wandering about the different apartments +I lost my company, and in trying to find +them, passed through a room in which hung a +magnificent portrait of Charles I., by Vandyck. +The hum and noise of my companions had ceased, +and I had the scene and silence to myself. I +looked in vain for the king's evil genius (Cromwell), +but he was not in the same room. The +pencil of Sir Peter Lely has left a splendid full-length +likeness of James II. George IV. is suspended +from a peg in the wall, looking as if it +was fresh from the hands of Sir Thomas Lawrence, +its admirable painter. I was now in St. +George's Hall, and I gazed upward to view the +beautiful figures on the ceiling, until my neck +was nearly out of joint. Leaving this room, I inspected +with interest the ancient <i>keep</i> of the +castle. In past centuries this part of the palace +was used as a prison. Here James the First of +Scotland was detained a prisoner for eighteen +years. I viewed the window through which the +young prince had often looked to catch a glimpse +<!-- Page 95 --><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95" title="95" class="pagenum"></a>of the young and beautiful Lady Jane, daughter +of the Earl of Somerset, with whom he was +enamoured.</p> + +<p>From the top of the Round Tower I had a fine +view of the surrounding country. Stoke Park, +once the residence of that great friend of humanity +and civilization, William Penn, was among the +scenes that I viewed with pleasure from Windsor +Castle. Four years ago, when in the city of +Philadelphia, and hunting up the places associated +with the name of this distinguished man, and +more recently when walking over the farm once +occupied by him on the banks of the Delaware, +examining the old malt house which is now left +standing, because of the veneration with which +the name of the man who built it is held, I had +no idea that I should ever see the dwelling which +he had occupied in the Old World. Stoke Park is +about four miles from Windsor, and is now owned +by the Right Hon. Henry Labouchere.</p> + +<p>The castle, standing as it does on an eminence, +and surrounded by a beautiful valley covered with +splendid villas, has the appearance of Gulliver +looking down upon the Lilliputians. It rears its +<!-- Page 96 --><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96" title="96" class="pagenum"></a>massive towers and irregular walls over and above +every other object; it stands like a mountain in +the desert. How full this old palace is of material +for thought! How one could ramble here alone, +or with one or two congenial companions, and +enjoy a recapitulation of its history! But an +engagement to be at Croydon in the evening cut +short my stay at Windsor, and compelled me to +return to town in advance of my party.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<p>Having met with John Morland, Esq., of Heath +Lodge, at Paris, he gave me an invitation to visit +Croydon, and deliver a lecture on American +Slavery; and last evening, at eight o'clock, I found +myself in a fine old building in the town, and +facing the first English audience that I had seen +in the sea-girt isle. It was my first welcome in +England. The assembly was an enthusiastic one, +and made still more so by the appearance of +George Thompson, Esq., M.P., upon the platform. +It is not my intention to give accounts of my +lectures or meetings in these pages. I therefore +merely say, that I left Croydon with a good +impression of the English, and Heath Lodge with +<!-- Page 97 --><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97" title="97" class="pagenum"></a>a feeling that its occupant was one of the most +benevolent of men.</p> + +<p>The same party with whom I visited Windsor +being supplied with a card of admission to the +Bank of England, I accepted an invitation to be +one of the company. We entered the vast building +at a little past twelve o'clock to-day. The +sun threw into the large halls a brilliancy that +seemed to light up the countenances of the almost +countless number of clerks, who were at their +desks, or serving persons at the counters. As +nearly all my countrymen who visit London pay +their respects to this noted institution, I shall sum +up my visit to it, by saying that it surpassed my +highest idea of a bank. But a stroll through this +monster building of gold and silver brought to +my mind an incident that occurred to me a year +after my escape from slavery.</p> + +<p>In the autumn of 1835, having been cheated +out of the previous summer's earnings, by the +captain of the steamer in which I had been +employed running away with the money, I was, +like the rest of the men, left without any means +of support during the winter, and therefore had to +<!-- Page 98 --><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98" title="98" class="pagenum"></a>seek employment in the neighbouring towns. I +went to the town of Monroe, in the state of +Michigan, and while going through the principal +streets looking for work, I passed the door of the +only barber in the town, whose shop appeared to +be filled with persons waiting to be shaved. As +there was but one man at work, and as I had, +while employed in the steamer, occasionally shaved +a gentleman who could not perform that office +himself, it occurred to me that I might get +employment here as a journeyman barber. I +therefore made immediate application for work, +but the barber told me he did not need a hand. +But I was not to be put off so easily, and after +making several offers to work cheap, I frankly told +him, that if he would not employ me I would get +a room near to him, and set up an opposition +establishment. This threat, however, made no +impression on the barber; and as I was leaving, +one of the men who were waiting to be shaved +said, "If you want a room in which to commence +business, I have one on the opposite side of the +street." This man followed me out; we went +over, and I looked at the room. He strongly +<!-- Page 99 --><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99" title="99" class="pagenum"></a>urged me to set up, at the same time promising to +give me his influence. I took the room, purchased +an old table, two chairs, got a pole with a +red stripe painted around it, and the next day +opened, with a sign over the door, "Fashionable +Hair-dresser from New York, Emperor of the +West." I need not add that my enterprise was +very annoying to the "shop over the way"—especially +my sign, which happened to be the +most expensive part of the concern. Of course, I +had to tell all who came in that my neighbour on +the opposite side did not keep clean towels, that +his razors were dull, and, above all, he had never +been to New York to see the fashions. Neither +had I. In a few weeks I had the entire business +of the town, to the great discomfiture of the other +barber.</p> + +<p>At this time, money matters in the Western +States were in a sad condition. Any person who +could raise a small amount of money was permitted +to establish a bank, and allowed to issue +notes for four times the sum raised. This being +the case, many persons borrowed money merely +long enough to exhibit to the bank inspectors, +<!-- Page 100 --><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100" title="100" class="pagenum"></a>and the borrowed money was returned, and the +bank left without a dollar in its vaults, if, indeed, +it had a vault about its premises. The result was, +that banks were started all over the Western +States, and the country flooded with worthless +paper. These were known as the "Wild Cat +Banks." Silver coin being very scarce, and the +banks not being allowed to issue notes for a +smaller amount than one dollar, several persons +put out notes from 6 to 75 cents in value; these +were called "Shinplasters." The Shinplaster +was in the shape of a promissory note, made payable +on demand. I have often seen persons with +large rolls of these bills, the whole not amounting +to more than five dollars. Some weeks after I +had commenced business on my "own hook," I +was one evening very much crowded with customers; +and while they were talking over the +events of the day, one of them said to me, +"Emperor, you seem to be doing a thriving +business. You should do as other business men, +issue your Shinplasters." This, of course, as it +was intended, created a laugh; but with me it was +no laughing matter, for from that moment I +<!-- Page 101 --><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101" title="101" class="pagenum"></a>began to think seriously of becoming a banker. +I accordingly went a few days after to a printer, +and he, wishing to get the job of printing, urged +me to put out my notes, and showed me some +specimens of engravings that he had just received +from Detroit. My head being already filled with +the idea of a bank, I needed but little persuasion +to set the thing finally afloat. Before I left the +printer the notes were partly in type, and I studying +how I should keep the public from counterfeiting +them. The next day my Shinplasters +were handed to me, the whole amount being +twenty dollars, and after being duly signed were +ready for circulation. At first my notes did not +take well; they were too new, and viewed with a +suspicious eye. But through the assistance of my +customers, and a good deal of exertion on my own +part, my bills were soon in circulation; and +nearly all the money received in return for my +notes was spent in fitting up and decorating my +shop.</p> + +<p>Few bankers get through this world without +their difficulties, and I was not to be an exception. +A short time after my money had been out, a +<!-- Page 102 --><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102" title="102" class="pagenum"></a>party of young men, either wishing to pull down +my vanity, or to try the soundness of my bank, +determined to give it "a run." After collecting +together a number of my bills, they came one at a +time to demand other money for them, and I, not +being aware of what was going on, was taken by +surprise. One day as I was sitting at my table, +strapping some new razors I had just got with the +avails of my "Shinplasters," one of the men +entered and said, "Emperor, you will oblige me +if you will give me some other money for these +notes of yours." I immediately cashed the notes +with the most worthless of the Wild Cat money +that I had on hand, but which was a lawful +tender. The young man had scarcely left when a +second appeared with a similar amount, and demanded +payment. These were cashed, and soon +a third came with his roll of notes. I paid these +with an air of triumph, although I had but half a +dollar left. I began now to think seriously what +I should do, or how to act, provided another demand +should be made. While I was thus engaged +in thought, I saw the fourth man crossing +the street, with a handful of notes, evidently my +"<!-- Page 103 --><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103" title="103" class="pagenum"></a>Shinplasters." I instantaneously shut the door, +and looking out of the window, said, "I have +closed business for the day: come to-morrow and +I will see you.<ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: typo, missing quote inserted">"</ins> In looking across the street, I +saw my rival standing in his shop-door, grinning +and clapping his hands at my apparent downfall. +I was completely "done <i>Brown</i>" for the day. +However, I was not to be "used up" in this +way; so I escaped by the back door, and went in +search of my friend who had first suggested to +me the idea of issuing notes. I found him, told +him of the difficulty I was in, and wished him to +point out a way by which I might extricate myself. +He laughed heartily, and then said, "You +must act as all bankers do in this part of the +country." I inquired how they did, and he said, +"When your notes are brought to you, you must +redeem them, and then send them out and get +other money for them; and, with the latter, you +can keep cashing your own Shinplasters." This +was indeed a new job to me. I immediately +commenced putting in circulation the notes which +I had just redeemed, and my efforts were crowned +with so much success, that before I slept that +<!-- Page 104 --><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104" title="104" class="pagenum"></a>night my "Shinplasters" were again in circulation, +and my bank once more on a sound basis.</p> + +<p>As I saw the clerks shovelling out the yellow +coin upon the counters of the Bank of England, +and men coming in and going out with weighty +bags of the precious metal in their hands, or on +their shoulders, I could not but think of the +great contrast <ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: "beetween" in the original text">between</ins> the monster Institution, +within whose walls I was then standing, and the +Wild Cat Banks of America!</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="LETTER_IX" id="LETTER_IX"></a>LETTER IX.</h2> + +<h3>The British Museum—A Portrait—Night Reading—A +Dark Day—A Fugitive Slave on the +Streets of London,—A Friend in the time of +need.</h3> + + +<p class="quotdate"><span style="font-variant: small-caps;">London</span>, <i>Sept. 24</i>.</p> + +<p><span style="font-variant: small-caps;">I have</span> devoted the past ten days to sight-seeing +in the Metropolis—the first two of which were +spent in the British Museum. After procuring a +<!-- Page 105 --><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105" title="105" class="pagenum"></a>guide-book at the door as I entered, I seated myself +on the first seat that caught my eye, +arranged as well as I could in my mind the different +rooms, and then commenced in good +earnest. The first part I visited was the Gallery +of Antiquities, through to the north gallery, <ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: "and and" in the original text">and</ins> +thence to the Lycian Room. This place is +filled with tombs, bas-reliefs, statues, and other +productions of the same art. Venus, seated, and +smelling a lotus flower which she held in her +hand, and attended by three graces, put a stop to +the rapid strides that I was making through this +part of the hall. This is really one of the most +precious productions of the art that I have ever +seen. Many of the figures in this room are very +much mutilated, yet one can linger here for hours +with interest. A good number of the statues are +of uncertain date; they are of great value as works +of art, and more so as a means of enlightening +much that has been obscure with respect to +Lycia, an ancient and celebrated country of Asia +Minor.</p> + +<p>In passing through the eastern Zoological Gallery, +I was surrounded on every side by an army +<!-- Page 106 --><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106" title="106" class="pagenum"></a>of portraits suspended upon the walls; and among +these was the Protector. The people of one +century kicks his bones through the streets of +London, another puts his portrait in the British +Museum, and a future generation may possibly +give him a place in Westminster Abbey. Such is +the uncertainty of the human character. Yesterday, +a common soldier—to-day, the ruler of an +empire—to-morrow, suspended upon the gallows. +In an adjoining room I saw a portrait of Baxter, +which gives one a pretty good idea of the great +Nonconformist. In the same room hung a splendid +modern portrait, without any intimation in +the guide-book of who it represented, or when it +was painted. It was so much like one whom I +had seen, and on whom my affections were placed +in my younger days, that I obtained a seat from +an adjoining room and rested myself before it. +After sitting half an hour or more, I wandered to +another part of the building, but only to return +again to my "first love," where I remained till the +throng had disappeared one after another, and +the officer reminding me that it was time to +close.</p> + +<p><!-- Page 107 --><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107" title="107" class="pagenum"></a>It was eight o'clock before I reached my lodgings. +Although fatigued by the day's exertions, +I again resumed the reading of Roscoe's "Leo +X.," and had nearly finished seventy-three pages, +when the clock on St. Martin's Church apprised +me that it was two. He who escapes from slavery +at the age of twenty years, without any education, +as did the writer of this letter, must read +when others are asleep, if he would catch up with +the rest of the world. "To be wise," says Pope, +"is but to know how little can be known." The +true searcher after truth and knowledge is always +like a child; although gaining strength from year +to year, he still "learns to labour and to wait." +The field of labour is ever expanding before him, +reminding him that he has yet more to learn; +teaching him that he is nothing more than a +child in knowledge, and inviting him onward +with a thousand varied charms. The son may +take possession of the father's goods at his death, +but he cannot inherit with the property the +father's cultivated mind. He may put on the +father's old coat, but that is all: the immortal +mind of the first wearer has gone to the tomb.</p> + +<p><!-- Page 108 --><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108" title="108" class="pagenum"></a>Property may be bequeathed, but knowledge +cannot. Then let him who would be useful in +his day and generation be up and doing. Like +the Chinese student who learned perseverance +from the woman whom he saw trying to rub a +crow-bar into a needle, so should we take the +experience of the past to lighten our feet through +the paths of the future.</p> + +<p>The next morning at ten, I was again at the +door of the great building; was soon within its +walls seeing what time would not allow of the +previous day. I spent some hours in looking +through glass cases, viewing specimens of minerals, +such as can scarcely be found in any place +out of the British Museum. During this day I +did not fail to visit the great Library. It is a +spacious room, surrounded with large glass cases +filled with volumes, whose very look tells you that +they are of age. Around, under the cornice, +were arranged a number of old black-looking +portraits, in all probability the authors of some of +the works in the glass cases beneath. About the +room were placed long tables, with stands for +reading and writing, and around these were a +<!-- Page 109 --><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109" title="109" class="pagenum"></a>number of men busily engaged in looking over +some chosen author. Old men with grey hairs, +young men with mustaches—some in cloth, +others in fustian, indicating that men of different +rank can meet here. Not a single word was +spoken during my stay, all appearing to enjoy +the silence that reigned throughout the great +room. This is indeed a retreat from the world. +No one inquires who the man is who is at his +side, and each pursues in silence his own researches. +The racing of pens over the sheets of +paper was all that disturbed the stillness of the +occasion.</p> + +<p>From the Library I strolled to other rooms, +and feasted my eyes on what I had never before +seen. He who goes over this immense building, +cannot do so without a feeling of admiration for +the men whose energy has brought together this +vast and wonderful collection of things, the like of +which cannot be found in any other museum in +the world. The reflection of the setting sun +against a mirror in one of the rooms, told me +that night was approaching, and I had but a +moment in which to take another look at the +<!-- Page 110 --><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110" title="110" class="pagenum"></a>portrait that I had seen the previous day, and +then bade adieu to the Museum.</p> + +<p>Having published the narrative of my life and +escape from slavery, and put it into the booksellers' +hands—and seeing a prospect of a fair sale, I +ventured to take from my purse the last sovereign +to make up a small sum to remit to the United +States, for the support of my daughter, who is at +school there. Before doing this, however, I had +made arrangements to attend a public meeting in +the city of Worcester, at which the mayor was +to preside. Being informed by the friends of +the slave there, that I would, in all probability, +sell a number of copies of my book, and being +told that Worcester was only ten miles from +London, I felt safe in parting with all but +a few shillings, feeling sure that my purse would +soon be again replenished. But you may guess +my surprise when I learned that Worcester was +above a hundred miles from London, and that I +had not retained money enough to defray my +expenses to the place. In my haste and wish to +make up the ten pounds to send to my children, +I had forgotten that the payment for my lodgings +<!-- Page 111 --><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111" title="111" class="pagenum"></a>would be demanded before I should leave town. +Saturday morning came; I paid my lodging bill, +and had three shillings and fourpence left; and +out of this sum I was to get three dinners, as I +was only served with breakfast and tea at my +lodgings. Nowhere in the British empire do the +people witness as dark days as in London. It was +on Monday morning, in the fore part of October, +as the clock on St. Martin's Church was striking +ten, that I left my lodgings, and turned into the +Strand. The street lamps were yet burning, and +the shops were all lighted as if day had not made +its appearance. This great thoroughfare, as usual +at this time of the day, was thronged with business +men going their way, and women sauntering about +for pleasure or for the want of something better +to do. I passed down the Strand to Charing +Cross, and looked in vain to see the majestic +statue of Nelson upon the top of the great shaft. +The clock on St. Martin's Church struck eleven, +but my sight could not penetrate through the +dark veil that hung between its face and me. In +fact, day had been completely turned into night; +and the brilliant lights from the shop windows +<!-- Page 112 --><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112" title="112" class="pagenum"></a>almost persuaded me that another day had not +appeared. Turning, I retraced my steps, and was +soon passing through the massive gates of Temple +Bar, wending my way to the city, when a beggar +boy at my heels accosted me for a half-penny to +buy bread. I had scarcely served the boy, when +I observed near by, and standing close to a lamp +post, a coloured man, and from his general +appearance I was satisfied that he was an +American. He eyed me attentively as I passed +him, and seemed anxious to speak. When I had +got some distance from him I looked back, and +his eyes were still upon me. No longer able to +resist the temptation to speak with him, I returned, +and commencing conversation with him, +learned a little of his history, which was as follows. +He had, he said, escaped from slavery in Maryland, +and reached New York; but not feeling +himself secure there, he had, through the kindness +of the captain of an English ship, made his way +to Liverpool; and not being able to get employment +there, he had come up to London. +Here he had met with no better success; and +having been employed in the growing of +<!-- Page 113 --><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113" title="113" class="pagenum"></a>tobacco, and being unaccustomed to any other +work, he could not get to labour in England. +I told him he had better try to get to the West +Indies; but he informed me that he had not a +single penny, and that he had nothing to eat that +day. By this man's story, I was moved to tears; +and going to a neighbouring shop, I took from +my purse my last shilling, changed it, and gave +this poor brother fugitive one-half. The poor +man burst into tears as I placed the sixpence in +his hand, and said—"You are the first friend I +have met in London." I bade him farewell, and +left him with a feeling of regret that I could +not place him beyond the reach of want. I went +on my way to the city, and while going through +Cheapside, a streak of light appeared in the east +that reminded me that it was not night. In vain +I wandered from street to street, with the hope +that I might meet some one who would lend me +money enough to get to Worcester. Hungry and +fatigued I was returning to my lodgings, when +the great clock of St Paul's Church, under whose +shadow I was then passing, struck four. A stroll +through Fleet Street and the Strand, and I was +<!-- Page 114 --><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114" title="114" class="pagenum"></a>again pacing my room. On my return, I found a +letter from Worcester had arrived in my absence, +informing me that a party of gentlemen would +meet me the next day on my reaching that place; +and saying, "Bring plenty of books, as you will +doubtless sell a large number." The last sixpence +had been spent for postage stamps, in +order to send off some letters to other places, +and I could not even stamp a letter in answer to +the one last from Worcester. The only vestige +of money about me was a smooth farthing that a +little girl had given to me at the meeting at +Croydon, saying, "This is for the slaves." I +was three thousand miles from home, with but a +single farthing in my pocket! Where on earth is +a man without money more destitute? The cold +hills of the Arctic regions have not a more inhospitable +appearance than London to the stranger +with an empty pocket. But whilst I felt depressed +at being in such a sad condition, I was conscious +that I had done right in remitting the last ten +pounds to America. It was for the support of +those whom God had committed to my care, and +whom I love as I can no others. I had no +<!-- Page 115 --><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115" title="115" class="pagenum"></a>friend in London to whom I could apply for temporary +aid. My friend, Mr. Thompson, was out +of town, and I did not know his address. The dark +day was rapidly passing away—the clock in +the hall had struck six. I had given up all +hopes of reaching Worcester the next day, and +had just rung the bell for the servant to bring me +some tea, when a gentle tap at the door was +heard—the servant entered, and informed me +that a gentleman below was wishing to see me. +I bade her fetch a light and ask him up. The +stranger was my young friend Frederick Stevenson, +son of the excellent minister of the Borough +Road Chapel. I had lectured in this chapel a +few days previous; and this young gentleman, +with more than ordinary zeal and enthusiasm for +the cause of bleeding humanity, and respect for +me, had gone amongst his father's congregation +and sold a number of copies of my book, and had +come to bring me the money. I wiped the silent +tear from my eyes as the young man placed the +thirteen half-crowns in my hand. I did not +let him know under what obligation I was to him +for this disinterested act of kindness. He does +<!-- Page 116 --><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116" title="116" class="pagenum"></a>not know to this day what aid he has rendered +to a stranger in a strange land, and I feel that I +am but discharging in a trifling degree, my debt +of gratitude to this young gentleman, in acknowledging +my obligation to him. As the man who +called for bread and cheese, when feeling in +his pocket for the last threepence to pay for it, +found a sovereign that he was not aware he possessed, +countermanded the order for the lunch, +and bade them bring him the best dinner they +could get; so I told the servant when she brought +the tea, that I had changed my mind, and should +go out to dine. With the means in my pocket +of reaching Worcester the next day, I sat down +to dinner at the Adelphi with a good cut of roast +beef before me, and felt myself once more at +home. Thus ended a dark day in London.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<div><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117" title="117" class="pagenum"></a></div> +<h2><a name="LETTER_X" id="LETTER_X"></a><!-- Page 117 -->LETTER X.</h2> + +<h3>The Whittington Club—Louis Blanc—Street +Amusements—Tower of London—Westminster +Abbey—National Gallery—Dante—Sir +Joshua Reynolds.</h3> + + +<p class="quotdate"><span style="font-variant: small-caps;">London</span>, <i>October 10</i>.</p> + +<p><span style="font-variant: small-caps;">For</span> some days past, Sol has not shown his face, +clouds have obscured the sky, and the rain has +fallen in torrents, which has contributed much to +the general gloom. However, I have spent the +time in as agreeable a manner as I well could. +Yesterday I fulfilled an engagement to dine with +a gentleman at the Whittington Club. One who +is unacquainted with the Club system as carried +on in London, can scarcely imagine the conveniences +they present. Every member appears +to be at home, and all seem to own a share in the +Club. There is a free-and-easy way with those +who frequent Clubs, and a licence given there that +is unknown in the drawing-room of the private +mansion. I met the gentleman at the Club, at +<!-- Page 118 --><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118" title="118" class="pagenum"></a>the appointed hour, and after his writing my +name in the visitors' book, we proceeded to the +dining-room, where we partook of a good dinner.</p> + +<p>We had been in the room but a short time, +when a small man, dressed in black, with his coat +buttoned up to the chin, entered the saloon, and +took a seat at the table hard by. My friend in a +low whisper informed me that this person was one +of the French refugees. He was apparently not +more than thirty years of age, and exceedingly +good looking—his person being slight, his feet +and hands very small and well shaped, especially +his hands, which were covered with kid gloves, so +tightly drawn on, that the points of the finger +nails were visible through them. His face was +mild and almost womanly in its beauty, his eyes +soft and full, his brow open and ample, his features +well defined, and approaching to the ideal +Greek in contour; the lines about his mouth were +exquisitely sweet, and yet resolute in expression; +his hair was short—his having no mustaches gave +him nothing of the look of a Frenchman; and I +was not a little surprised when informed that the +person before me was Louis Blanc. I could +<!-- Page 119 --><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119" title="119" class="pagenum"></a>scarcely be persuaded to believe that one so small, +so child-like in stature, had taken a prominent +part in the Revolution of 1848. He held in his +hand a copy of <i>La Presse</i>, and as soon as he +was seated, opened it and began to devour its +contents. The gentleman with whom I was +dining was not acquainted with him, but at the +close of our dinner he procured me an introduction +through another gentleman.</p> + +<p>As we were returning to our lodgings, we saw +in Exeter Street, Strand, one of those exhibitions +that can be seen in almost any of the streets in +the suburbs of the Metropolis, but which is something +of a novelty to those from the other side of +the Atlantic. This was an exhibition of "Punch +and Judy." Everything was in full operation when +we reached the spot. A puppet appeared eight or +ten inches from the waist upwards, with an enormous +face, huge nose, mouth widely grinning, projecting +chin, cheeks covered with grog blossoms, a +large protuberance on his back, another on his +chest; yet with these deformities he appeared +uncommonly happy. This was Mr. Punch. He +held in his right hand a tremendous bludgeon, +<!-- Page 120 --><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120" title="120" class="pagenum"></a>with which he amused himself by rapping on the +head every one who came within his reach. This +exhibition seems very absurd, yet not less than +one hundred were present—children, boys, old +men, and even gentlemen and ladies, were standing +by, and occasionally greeting the performer +with the smile of approbation. Mr. Punch, +however, was not to have it all his own way, for +another and better sort of Punch-like exhibition +appeared a few yards off, that took away Mr. +Punch's audience, to the great dissatisfaction +of that gentleman. This was an exhibition +called the Fantoccini, and far superior to any +of the street performances which I have yet +seen. The curtain rose and displayed a beautiful +theatre in miniature, and most gorgeously +painted. The organ which accompanied it +struck up a hornpipe, and a sailor, dressed in his +blue jacket, made his appearance and commenced +keeping time with the utmost correctness. This +figure was not so long as Mr. Punch, but much +better looking. At the close of the hornpipe the +little sailor made a bow, and tripped off, apparently +conscious of having deserved the undivided ap<!-- Page 121 --><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121" title="121" class="pagenum"></a>plause +of the bystanders. The curtain dropped; +but in two or three minutes it was again up, and a +rope was discovered, extended on two cross pieces, +for dancing upon. The tune was changed to an +air, in which the time was marked, a graceful figure +appeared, jumped upon the rope with its balance +pole, and displayed all the manoeuvres of an expert +performer on the tight rope. Many who +would turn away in disgust from Mr. Punch, will +stand for hours and look at the performances of +the Fantoccini. If people, like the Vicar of +Wakefield, will sometimes "allow themselves to +be happy," they can hardly fail to have a hearty +laugh at the drolleries of the Fantoccini. There +may be degrees of absurdity in the manner of +wasting our time, but there is an evident affectation +in decrying these humble and innocent +exhibitions, by those who will sit till two or three +in the morning to witness a pantomime at a +theatre-royal.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<p>An autumn sun shone brightly through a +remarkably transparent atmosphere this morning, +which was a most striking contrast to the weather +<!-- Page 122 --><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122" title="122" class="pagenum"></a>we have had during the past three days; and I +again set out to see some of the lions of the city, +commencing with the Tower of London. Every +American, on returning home from a visit to the +old world, speaks with pride of the places he saw +while in Europe; and of the many resorts of +interest he has read of, few have made a more +lasting impression upon his memory than the +Tower of London. The stories of the imprisoning +of kings, and queens, the murdering of princes, +the torturing of men and women, without regard +to birth, education, or station, and of the burning +and rebuilding of the old pile, have all sunk deep +into his heart. A walk of twenty minutes, after +being set down at the Bank by an omnibus, +brought me to the gate of the Tower. A party of +friends who were to meet me there had not +arrived, so I had an opportunity of inspecting the +grounds and taking a good view of the external +appearance of the old and celebrated building. +The Tower is <ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: "surounded" in the original text">surrounded</ins> by a high wall, and +around this a deep ditch partly filled with stagnated +water. The wall incloses twelve acres of +ground on which stand the several towers, occupy<!-- Page 123 --><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123" title="123" class="pagenum"></a>ing, +with their walks and avenues, the whole space. +The most ancient part of the building is called the +"White Tower," so as to distinguish it from the +parts more recently built. Its walls are seventeen +feet in thickness, and ninety-two in height, exclusive +of the turrets, of which there are four. +My company arrived, and we entered the tower +through four massive gates, the innermost one +being pointed out as the "Water, or Traitors' +Gate"—so called from the fact that it opened to the +river, and through it the criminals were usually +brought to the prison within. But this passage +is now closed up. We visited the various apartments +in the old building. The room in the +Bloody Tower, where the infant princes were +put to death by the command of their uncle, +Richard III.; also, the recess behind the gate +where the bones of the young princes were concealed, +were shown to us. The warden of the +prison who showed us through, seemed to have +little or no veneration for Henry VIII.; for he often +cracked a joke, or told a story at the expense of the +murderer of Anne Boleyn. The old man wiped +the tear from his eye, as he pointed out the grave +<!-- Page 124 --><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124" title="124" class="pagenum"></a>of Lady Jane Grey. This was doubtless one of +the best as well as most innocent of those who lost +their lives in the Tower; young, virtuous, and +handsome, she became a victim to the ambition +of her own and her husband's relations. I tried +to count the names on the wall in "Beauchamp's +Tower," but they were too numerous. Anne +Boleyn was imprisoned here. The room in the +"Brick Tower," where Lady Jane Grey was +imprisoned, was pointed out as a place +of interest. We were next shown into the +"White Tower." We passed through a long +room filled with many things having a warlike +appearance; and among them a number of +equestrian figures, as large as life, and clothed +in armour and trappings of the various reigns +from Edward I. to James II., or from 1272 +to 1685. Elizabeth, or the "Maiden Queen," +as the warden called her, was the most imposing +of the group; she was on a cream coloured +charger. We left the Maiden Queen to examine +the cloak upon which General Wolf died, +at the storming of Quebec. In this room Sir +Walter Raleigh was imprisoned, and here was +<!-- Page 125 --><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125" title="125" class="pagenum"></a>written his "History of the World." In his +own hand, upon the wall, is written, "Be +thou faithful unto death, and I will give thee a +crown of life." His Bible is still shown, with +these memorable lines written in it by himself a +short time before his death:—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div><span style="margin-left: -.5em;">"Even such is Time that takes on trust,</span></div> +<div>Our youth, our joy, our all we have,</div> +<div>And pays us but with age and dust;</div> +<div>Who in the dark and silent grave,</div> +<div>When we have wandered all our ways,</div> +<div>Shuts up the story of our days."</div> +</div></div> + +<p class="noindent">Spears, battle-axes, pikes, helmets, targets, +bows and arrows, and many instruments of torture, +whose names I did not learn, grace the +walls of this room. The block on which the +Earl of Essex and Anne Boleyn were beheaded, +was shown among other objects of interest. A +view of the "Queen's Jewels" closed our visit to +the Tower. The Gold Staff of St. Edward, and the +Baptismal Font used at the Royal christenings, +made of solid silver, and more than four feet high, +were among the jewels here exhibited. The +Sword of Justice was there, as if to watch the rest +<!-- Page 126 --><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126" title="126" class="pagenum"></a>of the valuables. However, this was not the +sword that Peter used. Our acquaintance with +De Foe, Sir Walter Raleigh, Chaucer, and James +Montgomery, through their writings, and the +knowledge that they had been incarcerated within +the walls of the bastile that we were just leaving, +caused us to look back again and again upon its +dark grey turrets.</p> + +<p>I closed the day with a look at the interior of +St. Paul's Cathedral. A service was just over, and +we met a crowd coming out as we entered the +great building. "Service is over, and two pence +for all that wants to stay," was the first sound that +caught our ears. In the Burlesque of "Esmeralda," +a man is met in the belfry of the Notre +Dame at Paris, and being asked for money by one +of the vergers says:—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div><span style="margin-left: -.5em;">"I paid three pence at the door,</span></div> +<div>And since I came in a great deal more:</div> +<div>Upon my honour you have emptied my purse,</div> +<div>St. Paul's Cathedral could not do worse."</div> +</div></div> + +<p class="noindent">I felt inclined to join in this sentiment before I +left the church. A fine statue of "Surly Sam" +Johnson was one of the first things that caught +<!-- Page 127 --><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127" title="127" class="pagenum"></a>our eyes on looking around. A statue of Sir +Edward Packenham, who fell at the Battle of New +Orleans, was on the opposite side of the great +hall. As we had walked over the ground where +this General fell, we viewed his statue with more +than ordinary interest. We were taken from +one scene of interest to another, until we found +ourselves in the "Whispering Gallery." From +the dome we had a splendid view of the Metropolis +of the world. A scaffold was erected up here +to enable an artist to take sketches from which a +panorama of London was painted. The artist +was three years at work. The painting is now +exhibited at the Colosseum; but the brain of the +artist was turned, and he died insane! Indeed, +one can scarcely conceive how it could be otherwise. +You in America have no idea of the immensity +of this building. Pile together half-a-dozen +of the largest churches in New York or Boston, +and you will have but a faint representation of +St. Paul's Cathedral.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<p>I have just returned from a stroll of two hours +through Westminster Abbey. We entered the +<!-- Page 128 --><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128" title="128" class="pagenum"></a>building at a door near Poets' Corner, and, naturally +enough, looked around for the monuments +of the men whose imaginative powers have contributed +so much to instruct and amuse mankind. +I was not a little disappointed in the few I saw. +In almost any church-yard you may see monuments +and tombs far superior to anything in the +Poets' Corner. A few only have monuments. +Shakspere, who wrote of man to man, and for +man to the end of time, is honoured with one. +Addison's monument is also there; but the +greater number have nothing more erected to +their memories than busts or medallions. Poets' +Corner is not splendid in appearance, yet I +observed visiters lingering about it, as if they +were tied to the spot by love and veneration +for some departed friend. All seemed to regard +it as classic ground. No sound louder than a +whisper was heard during the whole time, except +the verger treading over the marble floor with a +light step. There is great pleasure in sauntering +about the tombs of those with whom we are +familiar through their writings; and we tear +ourselves from their ashes, as we would from +<!-- Page 129 --><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129" title="129" class="pagenum"></a>those of a bosom friend. The genius of these +men spreads itself over the whole panorama of +Nature, giving us one vast and varied picture, +the colour of which will endure to the end of +time. None can portray like the poet the passions +of the human soul. The statue of Addison, +clad in his dressing-gown, is not far from that of +Shakspere. He looks as if he had just left the +study, after finishing some chosen paper for +the <i>Spectator</i>. This memento of a great man, +was the work of the British public. Such a +mark of national respect was but justice to one +who has contributed more to purify and raise the +standard of English literature, than any man of +his day. We next visited the other end of the +same transept, near the northern door. Here lie +Mansfield, Chatham, Fox, the second William +Pitt, Grattan, Wilberforce, and a few other +statesmen. But, above all, is the stately monument +to the Earl of Chatham. In no other place +so small, do so many great men lie together. To +these men, whose graves strangers from all parts +of the world wish to view, the British public are +in a great measure indebted for England's fame. +<!-- Page 130 --><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130" title="130" class="pagenum"></a>The high pre-eminence which England has so +long enjoyed and maintained in the scale of +empire, has constantly been the boast and pride +of the English people. The warm panegyrics +that have been lavished on her constitution and +laws—the songs chaunted to celebrate her glory—the +lustre of her arms, as the glowing theme of +her warriors—the thunder of her artillery in proclaiming +her moral prowess, her flag being unfurled +to every breeze and ocean, rolling to her +shores the tribute of a thousand realms—show +England to be the greatest nation in the world, and +speak volumes for the great departed, as well as +for those of the living present. One requires no +company, no amusements, no books in such a +place as this. Time and death have placed within +those walls sufficient to occupy the mind, if one +should stay here a week.</p> + +<p>On my return, I spent an hour very pleasantly +in the National Academy, in the same building +as the National Gallery. Many of the paintings +here are of a fine order. Oliver Cromwell looking +upon the headless corpse of King Charles +I., appeared to draw the greatest number of spec<!-- Page 131 --><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131" title="131" class="pagenum"></a>tators. +A scene from "As You Like it," was one +of the best executed pieces we saw. This was +"Rosalind, Celia, and Orlando." The artist did +himself and the subject great credit. Kemble, in +Hamlet, with that ever memorable skull in his +hand, was one of the pieces which we viewed with +no little interest. It is strange that Hamlet is +always represented as a thin, lean man, when the +Hamlet of Shakspere was a fat, John Bull-kind of +a man. But the best piece in the Gallery was +"Dante meditating the episode of Francesca da +Rimini and Paolo Malatesta, S'Inferno, Canto +V." Our first interest for the great Italian poet +was created by reading Lord Byron's poem, +"The Lament of Dante." From that hour we +felt like examining everything connected with the +great Italian poet. The history of poets, as well +as painters, is written in their works. The best +written life of Goldsmith is to be found in his +poem of "The Traveller," and his novel of "The +Vicar of Wakefield." Boswell could not have +written a better life of himself than he has done +in giving the Biography of Dr. Johnson. It +seems clear that no one can be a great poet with<!-- Page 132 --><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132" title="132" class="pagenum"></a>out +having been sometime during life a lover, and +having lost the object of his affection in some +mysterious way. Burns had his Highland Mary, +Byron his Mary, and Dante was not without his +Beatrice. Whether there ever lived such a +person as Beatrice seems to be a question +upon which neither of his biographers have +thrown much light. However, a Beatrice existed in +the poet's mind, if not on earth. His attachment +to Beatrice Portinari, and the linking of her +name with the immortality of his great poem, +left an indelible impression upon his future +character. The marriage of the object of his +affections to another, and her subsequent death, +and the poet's exile from his beloved Florence, +together with his death amongst strangers—all +give an interest to the poet's writings, which +could not be heightened by romance itself. When +exiled and in poverty, Dante found a friend in the +father of Francesca. And here, under the roof of +his protector, he wrote his great poem. The +time the painter has chosen is evening. Day and +night meet in mid-air: one star is alone visible. +Sailing in vacancy are the shadows of the lovers. +<!-- Page 133 --><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133" title="133" class="pagenum"></a>The countenance of Francesca is expressive of +hopeless agony. The delineations are sublime, +the conception is of the highest order, and the +execution admirable. Dante is seated in a marble +vestibule, in a meditating attitude, the face partly +concealed by the right hand upon which it is +resting. On the whole, it is an excellently +painted piece, and causes one to go back with a +fresh relish to the Italian's celebrated poem. In +coming out, we stopped a short while in the upper +room of the Gallery, and spent a few minutes +over a painting representing Mrs. Siddons in +one of Shakspere's characters. This is by Sir +Joshua Reynolds, and is only one of the many +pieces that we have seen of this great artist. His +genius was vast, and powerful in its grasp. His +fancy fertile, and his inventive faculty inexhaustible +in its resources. He displayed the very +highest powers of genius by the thorough originality +of his conceptions, and by the entirely new +path that he struck out in art. Well may +Englishmen be proud of his name. And as time +shall step between his day and those that follow +after him, the more will his works be appreciated. +<!-- Page 134 --><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134" title="134" class="pagenum"></a>We have since visited his grave, and stood over +his monument in St. Paul's.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="LETTER_XI" id="LETTER_XI"></a>LETTER XI.</h2> + +<h3>York Minster—The Great Organ—Newcastle-on-Tyne—The +Labouring Classes—The American +Slave—Sheffield—James Montgomery.</h3> + + +<p class="quotdate"><i>January, 1850</i>.</p> + +<p><span style="font-variant: small-caps;">Some</span> days since, I left the Metropolis to fulfil a +few engagements to visit provincial towns; and +after a ride of nearly eight hours, we were in +sight of the ancient city of York. It was night, +the moon was in her zenith, and there seemed +nothing between her and the earth but glittering +gold. The moon, the stars, and the innumerable +gas-lights, gave the city a panoramic appearance. +Like a mountain starting out of a plain, there +stood the Cathedral in all its glory, looking down +upon the surrounding buildings, with all the +appearance of a Gulliver standing over the Lilli<!-- Page 135 --><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135" title="135" class="pagenum"></a>putians. +Night gave us no opportunity to view +the Minster. However, we were up the next +morning before the sun, and walking round the +Cathedral with a degree of curiosity seldom +excited within us. It is thought that a building +of the same dimensions would take fifty years to +complete it at the present time, even with all the +improvements of the nineteenth century, and +would cost no less than the enormous sum of two +millions of pounds sterling. From what I had +heard of this famous Cathedral, my expectations +were raised to the highest point; but it surpassed +all the idea that I had formed of it. On entering +the building, we lost all thought of the external +appearance by the matchless beauty of the interior. +The echo produced by the tread of our feet +upon the floor as we entered, resounding through +the aisles, seemed to say "Put off your shoes, for +the place whereon you tread is holy ground." +We stood with hat in hand, and gazed with +wonder and astonishment down the incomparable +vista of more than five hundred feet. The organ, +which stands near the centre of the building, is +said to be one of the finest in the world. A +<!-- Page 136 --><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136" title="136" class="pagenum"></a>wall, in front of which is a screen of the most +gorgeous and florid architecture and executed in +solid stone, separates the nave from the service +choir. The beautiful workmanship of this makes +it appear so perfect, as almost to produce the belief +that it is tracery work of wood. We ascended +the rough stone steps through a winding stair to +the turrets, where we had such a view of the surrounding +country, as can be obtained from no +other place. On the top of the centre and highest +turret, is a grotesque figure of a fiddler; rather +a strange looking object, we thought, to occupy +the most elevated pinnacle on the house of God. +All dwellings in the neighbourhood appear like so +many dwarfs couching at the feet of the Minster; +while its own vastness and beauty impress the +observer with feelings of awe and sublimity. As +we stood upon the top of this stupendous mountain +of ecclesiastical architecture, and surveyed +the picturesque hills and valleys around, imagination +recalled the tumult of the sanguinary +battles fought in sight of the edifice. The rebellion +of Octavius near three thousand years ago, +his defeat and flight to the Scots, his return and +<!-- Page 137 --><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137" title="137" class="pagenum"></a>triumph over the Romans, and being crowned +king of all Britain; the assassination of Oswald +king of the Northumbrians; the flaying alive of +Osbert; the crowning of Richard III; the siege +by William the Conqueror; the siege by Cromwell, +and the pomp and splendour with which the +different monarchs had been received in York, +all appeared to be vividly before me. While we +were thus calling to our aid our knowledge of +history, a sweet peal from the lungs of the ponderous +organ below cut short our stay among the +turrets, and we descended to have our organ of +tune gratified, as well as to finish the inspection +of the interior.</p> + +<p>I have heard the sublime melodies of Handel, +Hayden, and Mozart, performed by the most +skilful <ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: "muscians" in the original text">musicians</ins>; I have listened with delight +and awe to the soul-moving compositions of those +masters, as they have been chaunted in the most +magnificent churches; but never did I hear such +music, and played upon such an instrument, as +that sent forth by the great organ in the +Cathedral of York. The verger took much +delight in showing us the Horn that was once +<!-- Page 138 --><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138" title="138" class="pagenum"></a>mounted with gold, but is now garnished with +brass. We viewed the monuments and tombs of +the departed, and then spent an hour before the +great north window. The designs on the painted +glass, which tradition states was given to the +church by five virgin sisters, is the finest thing of +the kind in Great Britain. I felt a relief on once +more coming into the open air and again beholding +Nature's own sun-light. The splendid ruins of +St. Mary's Abbey, with its eight beautiful light +gothic windows, next attracted our attention. A +visit to the Castle finished our stay in York; and +as we were leaving the old city we almost +imagined that we heard the chiming of the bells +for the celebration of the first Christian Sabbath, +with Prince Arthur as the presiding genius.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<p>England stands pre-eminently the first government +in the world for freedom of speech and of +the press. Not even in our own beloved America, +can the man who feels himself oppressed speak +as he can in Great Britain. In some parts of +England, however, the freedom of thought is +tolerated to a greater extent than in others; and +<!-- Page 139 --><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139" title="139" class="pagenum"></a>of the places favourable to reforms of all kinds, +calculated to elevate and benefit mankind, Newcastle-on-Tyne +doubtless takes the lead. Surrounded +by innumerable coal mines, it furnishes +employment for a large labouring population, +many of whom take a deep interest in the +passing events of the day, and, consequently, +are a reading class. The public debater or +speaker, no matter what may be his subject, +who fails to get an audience in other towns, is +sure of a gathering in the Music Hall, or Lecture +Room in Newcastle. Here I first had an opportunity +of coming in contact with a portion of the +labouring people of Britain. I have addressed +large and influential meetings in Newcastle and +the neighbouring towns, and the more I see and +learn of the condition of the working-classes of +England the more I am satisfied of the utter +fallacy of the statements often made that their +condition approximates to that of the slaves of +America. Whatever may be the disadvantages +that the British peasant labours under, he is +free; and if he is not satisfied with his employer +he can make choice of another. He also has the +<!-- Page 140 --><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140" title="140" class="pagenum"></a>right to educate his children; and he is the equal +of the most wealthy person before an English +Court of Justice. But how is it with the +American Slave? He has no right to himself, +no right to protect his wife, his child, or his own +person. He is nothing more than a living tool. +Beyond his field or workshop he knows nothing. +There is no amount of ignorance he is not +capable of. He has not the least idea of the face +of this earth, nor of the history or constitution +of the country in which he dwells. To him the +literature, science, and art—the progressive +history, and the accumulated discoveries of <ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: "byegone" in the original text">bygone</ins> +ages, are as if they had never been. The +past is to him as yesterday, and the future +scarcely more than to-morrow. Ancestral monuments, +he has none; written documents fraught +with cogitations of other times, he has none; +and any instrumentality calculated to awaken +and expound the intellectual activity and comprehension +of a present or approaching generation, +he has none. His condition is that of the +leopard of his own native Africa. It lives, it +propagates its kind; but never does it indicate a +<!-- Page 141 --><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141" title="141" class="pagenum"></a>movement towards that all but angelic intelligence +of man. The slave eats, drinks, and sleeps—all +for the benefit of the man who claims his body +as his property. Before the tribunals of his +country he has no voice. He has no higher +appeal than the mere will of his owner. He +knows nothing of the inspired Apostles through +their writings. He has no Sabbath, no Church, +no Bible, no means of grace,—and yet we are +told that he is as well off as the labouring classes +of England. It is not enough that the people of +my country should point to their Declaration of +Independence which declares that "all men are +created equal." It is not enough that they +should laud to the skies a constitution containing +boasting declarations in favour of freedom. +It is not enough that they should extol the +genius of Washington, the patriotism of Henry, +or the enthusiasm of Otis. The time has come +when nations are judged by the acts of the +present instead of the past. And so it must be +with America. In no place in the United Kingdom +has the American Slave warmer friends +than in Newcastle.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<p><!-- Page 142 --><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142" title="142" class="pagenum"></a>I am now in Sheffield, and have just returned +from a visit to James Montgomery, the poet. In +company with James Wall, Esq., I proceeded to +The Mount, the residence of Mr. Montgomery; +and our names being sent in, we were soon in the +presence of the "Christian Poet." He held in +his left hand the <i>Eclectic Review</i> for the +month, and with the right gave me a hearty +shake, and bade me "Welcome to old England." +He was anything but like the portraits I had +seen of him, and the man I had in my mind's eye. +I had just been reading his "Pelican Island," +and I eyed the poet with no little interest. He +is under the middle size, his forehead high and +well formed, the top of which was a little bald; +his hair of a yellowish colour, his eyes rather +small and deep set, the nose long and slightly +<ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: "acquiline" in the original text">aquiline</ins>, his mouth rather small, and not at all +pretty. He was dressed in black, and a large +white cravat entirely hid his neck and chin: his +having been afflicted from childhood with salt-rhum, +was doubtless the cause of his chin being so +completely buried in the neckcloth. Upon the +<!-- Page 143 --><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143" title="143" class="pagenum"></a>whole, he looked more like one of our American +Methodist parsons, than any one I have seen in +this country. He entered freely into conversation +with us. He said he should be glad to attend +my lecture that evening, but that he had +long since quit going out at night. He mentioned +having heard William Lloyd Garrison +some years before, and with whom he was well +pleased. He said it had long been a puzzle to +him, how Americans could hold slaves and still +retain their membership in the churches. When +we rose to leave, the old man took my hand between +his two, and with tears in his eyes said, "Go +on your Christian mission, and may the Lord protect +and prosper you. Your enslaved countrymen +have my sympathy, and shall have my prayers." +Thus ended our visit to the Bard of Sheffield. +Long after I had quitted the presence of the poet, +the following lines of his were ringing in my +ears:—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div><span style="margin-left: -.5em;">"Wanderer, whither dost thou roam?</span></div> +<div>Weary wanderer, old and grey,</div> +<div>Wherefore has thou left thine home,</div> +<div>In the sunset of thy day.</div> +<div><!-- Page 144 --><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144" title="144" class="pagenum"></a>Welcome wanderer as thou art,</div> +<div>All my blessings to partake;</div> +<div>Yet thrice welcome to my heart,</div> +<div>For thine injured people's sake.</div> +<div>Wanderer, whither would'st thou roam?</div> +<div>To what region far away?</div> +<div>Bend thy steps to find a home,</div> +<div>In the twilight of thy day.</div> +<div>Where a tyrant never trod,</div> +<div>Where a slave was never known—</div> +<div>But where Nature worships God</div> +<div>In the wilderness alone."</div> +</div></div> + + +<p>Mr. Montgomery seems to have thrown his +entire soul into his meditations on the wrongs of +Switzerland. The poem from which we have +just quoted, is unquestionably one of his best +productions, and contains more of the fire of +enthusiasm than all his other works. We feel a +reverence almost amounting to superstition, for +the poet who deals with nature. And who is +more capable of understanding the human heart +than the poet? Who has better known the +human feelings than Shakspere; better painted +than Milton, the grandeur of Virtue; better +sighed than Byron over the subtle weaknesses of +<!-- Page 145 --><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145" title="145" class="pagenum"></a>Hope? Who ever had a sounder taste, a more +exact intellect than Dante? or who has ever +tuned his harp more in favour of Freedom, than +our own <ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: Erratum applied, "Dante" in the original text">Whittier</ins>?</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="LETTER_XII" id="LETTER_XII"></a>LETTER XII.</h2> + +<h3>Kirkstall Abbey—Mary the Maid of the Inn—Newstead +Abbey: Residence of Lord Byron—Parish +Church of Hucknall—Burial Place +of Lord Byron—Bristol: "Cook's Folly"—Chepstow +Castle and Abbey—Tintern Abbey—Redcliffe +Church.</h3> + + +<p class="quotdate"><i>January 29</i>.</p> + +<p><span style="font-variant: small-caps;">In</span> passing through Yorkshire, we could not +resist the temptation it offered, to pay a visit to +the extensive and interesting ruin of Kirkstall +Abbey, which lies embosomed in a beautiful recess +of Airedale, about three miles from Leeds. A +pleasant drive over a smooth road, brought us +abruptly in sight of the Abbey. The tranquil and +<!-- Page 146 --><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146" title="146" class="pagenum"></a>pensive beauty of the desolate Monastery, as it +reposes in the lap of pastoral luxuriance, and amidst +the touching associations of seven centuries, is +almost beyond description when viewed from +where we first beheld it. After arriving at its +base, we stood for some moments under the mighty +arches that lead into the great hall, gazing at its +old grey walls frowning with age. At the distance +of a small field, the Aire is seen gliding past +the foot of the lawn on which the ruin stands, +after it has left those precincts, sparkling over a +weir with a pleasing murmur. We could fully enter +into the feelings of the Poet when he says:—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div><span style="margin-left: -.5em;">"Beautiful fabric! even in decay</span></div> +<div class="i1">And desolation, beauty still is thine;</div> +<div>As the rich sunset of an autumn day,</div> +<div class="i1">When gorgeous clouds in glorious hues combine</div> +<div>To render homage to its slow decline,</div> +<div class="i1">Is more majestic in its parting hour:</div> +<div>Even so thy mouldering, venerable shrine</div> +<div class="i1">Possesses now a more subduing power,</div> +<div>Than in thine earlier sway, with pomp and pride thy dower."</div> +</div></div> + + +<p>The tale of "Mary, the Maid of the Inn," is +<!-- Page 147 --><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147" title="147" class="pagenum"></a>supposed, and not without foundation, to be connected +with this Abbey. "Hark to Rover," the +name of the house where the key is kept, was, a +century ago, a retired inn or pot-house, and the +haunt of many a desperate highwayman and +poacher. The anecdote is so well known, that it +is scarcely necessary to relate it. It, however, is +briefly this:—</p> + +<p>"One stormy night, as two travellers sat at +the inn, each having exhausted his news, +the conversation was directed to the Abbey, the +boisterous night, and Mary's heroism; when a +bet was at last made by one of them, that she +would not go and bring back from the nave a +slip of the alder-tree growing there. Mary, however, +did go; but having nearly reached the tree, +she heard a low, indistinct dialogue; at the same +time, something black fell and rolled towards her, +which afterwards proved to be a hat. Directing +her attention to the place whence the conversation +proceeded, she saw, from behind a pillar, two +men carrying a murdered body: they passed near +the place where she stood, a heavy cloud was +swept from off the face of the moon, and Mary +<!-- Page 148 --><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148" title="148" class="pagenum"></a>fell senseless—one of the murderers was her +intended husband! She was awakened from her +swoon, but—her reason had fled for ever." Mr. +Southey wrote a beautiful poem founded on this +story, which will be found in his published works. +We spent nearly three hours in wandering through +these splendid ruins. It is both curious and interesting +to trace the early history of these old +piles, which become the resort of thousands, +nine-tenths of whom are unaware either of the +classic ground on which they tread, or of the +peculiar interest thrown around the spot by the +deeds of remote ages.</p> + +<p>During our stay in Leeds, we had the +good fortune to become acquainted with Wilson +Armistead, Esq. This gentleman is well +known as an able writer against Slavery. His +most elaborate work is "A Tribute for the +Negro." This is a volume of 560 pages, and is +replete with facts refuting the charges of inferiority +brought against the Negro race. Few +English gentlemen have done more to hasten the +day of the American slave's liberation, than +Wilson Armistead.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<p><!-- Page 149 --><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149" title="149" class="pagenum"></a>We have just paid a visit to Newstead Abbey, +the far-famed residence of Lord Byron. I posted +from Hucknall over to Newstead one pleasant +morning, and, being provided with a letter of +introduction to Colonel Wildman, I lost no time +in presenting myself at the door of the Abbey. +But, unfortunately for me, the Colonel was at +Mansfield, in attendance at the Assizes—he being +one of the County Magistrates. I did not however +lose the object of my visit, as every attention +was paid in showing me about the premises. +I felt as every one must, who gazes for the first +time upon these walls, and remembers that it was +here, even amid the comparative ruins of a +building once dedicated to the sacred cause of +Religion and her twin sister, Charity, that the +genius of Byron was first developed. Here that +he paced with youthful melancholy the halls +of his illustrious ancestors, and trode the walks of +the long-banished monks. The housekeeper—a +remarkably good looking and polite woman—showed +us through the different apartments, and +explained in the most minute manner every +<!-- Page 150 --><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150" title="150" class="pagenum"></a>object of interest connected with the interior +of the building. We first visited the Monks' +Parlour, which seemed to contain nothing of note, +except a very fine stained window—one of the +figures representing St. Paul, surmounted by a +cross. We passed through Lord Byron's Bedroom, +the Haunted Chamber, the Library, and the +Eastern Corridor, and halted in the Tapestry Bedroom, +which is truly a magnificent apartment, +formed by the Byrons for the use of King +Charles II. The ceiling is richly decorated +with the Byron arms. We next visited the +grand Drawing-room, probably the finest in +the building. This saloon contains a large number +of splendid portraits, among which is the +celebrated portrait of Lord Byron, by Phillips. +In this room we took into our hand the +Skull-cup, of which so much has been written, and +that has on it a short inscription, commencing with—"Start +not—nor deem my spirit fled." Leaving +this noble room, we descended by a few polished +oak steps into the West Corridor, from which we +entered the grand Dining Hall, and through +several other rooms, until we reached the +<!-- Page 151 --><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151" title="151" class="pagenum"></a>Chapel. Here we were shown a stone coffin +which had been found near the high altar, +when the workmen were excavating the vault, +intended by Lord Byron for himself and his +dog. The coffin contained the skeleton of +an Abbot, and also the identical skull from +which the cup, of which I have made mention, +was made. We then left the building, +and took a stroll through the grounds. After +passing a pond of cold crystal water, we came +to a dark wood in which are two leaden +statues of Pan, and a female satyr—very fine +specimens as works of art. We here inspected +the tree whereon Byron carved his own name +and that of his sister, with the date, all of which +are still legible. However, the tree is now dead, +and we were informed that Colonel Wildman +intended to have it cut down so as to preserve +the part containing the inscription. After crossing +an interesting and picturesque part of the +gardens, we arrived within the precincts of the +ancient Chapel, near which we observed a neat +marble monument, and which we supposed to +have been erected to the memory of some of the +<!-- Page 152 --><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152" title="152" class="pagenum"></a>Byrons; but, on drawing near to it, we read the +following inscription:—</p> + +<div class="poem"> +<div style="text-align: center;">"Near this spot </div> +<div style="text-align: center;">are deposited the remains of one</div> +<div style="text-align: center;">who possessed beauty without vanity,</div> +<div style="text-align: center;">strength without insolence,</div> +<div style="text-align: center;">courage without ferocity,</div> +<div style="text-align: center;">and all the virtues of man without his vices.</div> +<div style="text-align: center;">This praise, which would be unmeaning flattery,</div> +<div style="text-align: center;">if inscribed over human ashes,</div> +<div style="text-align: center;">is but a just tribute to the memory of</div> +<div style="text-align: center;">BOATSWAIN, a dog,</div> +<div style="text-align: center;">Who was born at Newfoundland, May, 1803,</div> +<div style="text-align: center;"> and died at Newstead Abbey, November 18, 1808.<ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: typo, missing quote inserted">"</ins></div> +</div> + + +<p>By a will which his Lordship executed in 1811, +he directed that his own body should be buried in +a vault in the garden, near his faithful dog. This +feeling of affection to his dumb and faithful follower, +commendable in itself, seems here to have +been carried beyond the bounds of reason and +propriety.</p> + +<p>In another part of the grounds we saw the oak +tree planted by the poet himself. It has now attained +a goodly size, considering the growth of +the oak, and bids fair to become a lasting memento +<!-- Page 153 --><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153" title="153" class="pagenum"></a>to the Noble Bard, and to be a shrine to which +thousands of pilgrims will resort in future ages, +to do homage to his mighty genius. This tree +promises to share in after times the celebrity of +Shakspere's mulberry, and Pope's willow. Near +by, and in the tall trees, the rooks were keeping +up a tremendous noise. After seeing everything +of interest connected with the great poet, we +entered our chaise, and left the premises. As we +were leaving, I turned to take a farewell look at +the Abbey, standing in solemn grandeur, the long +ivy clinging fondly to the rich tracery of a former +age. Proceeding to the little town of Hucknall, +we entered the old grey Parish Church, which has +for ages been the last resting-place of the Byrons, +and where repose the ashes of the Poet, marked +only by a neat marble slab, bearing the date of +the poet's birth, death, and the fact that the +tablet was placed there by his sister. This closed +my visit to the interesting scenes associated with +Byron's strange eventful history—scenes that ever +acquire a growing charm as the lapse of years +softens the errors of the man, and confirms the +genius of the poet.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<p class="quotdate"><!-- Page 154 --><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154" title="154" class="pagenum"></a><i>May 10</i>.</p> + +<p>It was on a lovely morning that I found myself +on board the little steamer <i>Wye</i>, passing out of +Bristol harbour. In going down the river, we +saw on our right, the stupendous rocks of St. +Vincent towering some four or five hundred feet +above our heads. By the swiftness of our fairy +steamer, we were soon abreast of Cook's Folly, a +singular tower, built by a man from whom it takes +its name, and of which the following romantic +story is told:—"Some years since a gentleman, +of the name of Cook, erected this tower, which +has since gone by the name of 'Cook's Folly.' +A son having been born, he was desirous of ascertaining, +by means of astrology, if he would live to +enjoy his property. Being himself a firm believer, +like the poet Dryden, that certain information +might be obtained from the above science, +he caused the child's horoscope to be drawn, and +found, to his dismay, that in his third, sixteenth, +or twenty-first year, he would be in danger of +meeting with some fearful calamity or sudden +<!-- Page 155 --><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155" title="155" class="pagenum"></a>death, to avert which he caused the turret to be +constructed, and the child placed therein. Secure, +as he vainly thought, there he lived, attended +by a faithful servant, their food and fuel +being conveyed to them by means of a pully-basket, +until he was old enough to wait upon +himself. On the eve of his twenty-first year, his +parent's hopes rose high, and great were the rejoicings +prepared to welcome the young heir to +his home. But, alas! no human skill could avert +the dark fate which clung to him. The last night +he had to pass alone in the turret, a bundle of +faggots was conveyed to him as usual, in which +lay concealed a viper, which clung to his hand. +The bite was fatal; and, instead of being borne +in triumph, the dead body of his only son was the +sad spectacle which met the sight of his father."</p> + +<p>We crossed the channel and soon entered the +mouth of that most picturesque of rivers, the Wye. +As we neared the town of Chepstow the old +Castle made its appearance, and a fine old ruin it +is. Being previously provided with a letter of +introduction to a gentleman in Chepstow, I lost +no time in finding him out. This gentleman +<!-- Page 156 --><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156" title="156" class="pagenum"></a>gave me a cordial reception, and did what +Englishmen seldom ever do, lent me his saddle +horse to ride to the Abbey. While lunch was in +preparation I took a stroll through the Castle +which stood near by. We entered the Castle +through the great door-way and were soon treading +the walls that had once sustained the cannon +and the sentinel, but were now covered with +weeds and wild flowers. The drum and fife had +once been heard within these walls—the only +music now is the cawing of the rook and daw. +We paid a hasty visit to the various apartments, +remaining longest in those of most interest. The +room in which Martin the Regicide was imprisoned +nearly twenty years, was pointed out to us. +The Castle of Chepstow is still a magnificent pile, +towering upon the brink of a stupendous cliff, on +reaching the top of which, we had a splendid view +of the surrounding country. Time, however, +compelled us to retrace our steps, and after partaking +of a lunch, we mounted a horse for the +first time in ten years, and started for Tintern +Abbey. The distance from Chepstow to the +Abbey is about five miles, and the road lies along +<!-- Page 157 --><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157" title="157" class="pagenum"></a>the banks of the river. The river is walled +in on either side by hills of much beauty, clothed +from base to summit with the richest verdure. I +can conceive of nothing more striking than the +first appearance of the Abbey. As we rounded a +hill, all at once we saw the old ruin standing +before us in all its splendour. This celebrated +ecclesiastical relic of the olden time is doubtless +the finest ruin of its kind in Europe. Embosomed +amongst hills, and situated on the banks of the +most fairy-like river in the world, its beauty can +scarcely be surpassed. We halted at the "Beaufort +Arms," left our horse, and sallied forth +to view the Abbey. The sun was pouring a +flood of light upon the old grey walls, lighting +up its dark recesses, as if to give us a better +opportunity of viewing it. I gazed with astonishment +and admiration at its many beauties, and +especially at the superb gothic windows over the +entrance door. The beautiful gothic pillars, with +here and there a representation of a praying +priest, and mailed knights, with saints and +Christian martyrs, and the hundreds of Scriptural +representations, all indicate that this was a place +<!-- Page 158 --><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158" title="158" class="pagenum"></a>of considerable importance in its palmy days. +The once stone floor had disappeared, and we +found ourselves standing on a floor of unbroken +green grass, swelling back to the old walls, and +looking so verdant and silken that it seemed the +very floor of fancy. There are more romantic +and wilder places than this in the world, but none +more beautiful. The preservation of these old +abbeys should claim the attention of those under +whose charge they are, and we felt like joining +with the poet and saying<ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: typo, colon added">:—</ins></p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div class="i9">"O ye who dwell<br /></div> +<div>Around yon ruins, guard the precious charge</div> +<div>From hands profane! O save the sacred pile—</div> +<div>O'er which the wing of centuries has flown</div> +<div>Darkly and silently, deep-shadowing all</div> +<div>Its pristine honours—from the ruthless grasp</div> +<div>Of future violation."</div> +</div></div> + + +<p>In contemplating these ruins more closely, the +mind insensibly reverts to the period of feudal +and regal oppression, when structures like that of +Tintern Abbey necessarily became the scenes of +stirring and highly-important events. How +altered is the scene! Where were formerly mag<!-- Page 159 --><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159" title="159" class="pagenum"></a>nificence +and splendour; the glittering array of +priestly prowess; the crowded halls of haughty +bigots, and the prison of religious offenders; +there is now but a heap of mouldering ruins. +The oppressed and the oppressor have long since +lain down together in the peaceful grave. The +ruin, generally speaking, is unusually perfect, +and the sculpture still beautifully sharp. The +outward walls are nearly entire, and are thickly +clad with ivy. Many of the windows are also in a +good state of preservation; but the roof has long +since fallen in. The feathered songsters were fluttering +about, and pouring forth their artless lays +as a tribute of joy; while the lowing of the herds, +the bleating of flocks, and the hum of bees upon +the farm near by, all burst upon the ear, and gave +the scene a picturesque sublimity that can be easier +imagined than described. Most assuredly Shakspere +had such ruins in view when he exclaimed<ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: typo, colon added">:—</ins></p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div><span style="margin-left: -.5em;">"The cloud-capp'd towers, the gorgeous palaces,</span></div> +<div>The solemn temples, the great globe itself,</div> +<div>Yea, all which it inherit, shall dissolve—</div> +<div>And, like the baseless fabric of a vision,</div> +<div>Leave not a wreck behind."</div> +</div></div> + + +<p><!-- Page 160 --><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160" title="160" class="pagenum"></a>In the afternoon we returned to Bristol, and I +spent the greater part of the next day in examining +the interior of Redcliffe Church. Few places +in the West of England have greater claims upon +the topographer and historian than the church of +St. Mary's, Redcliffe. Its antiquity, the beauty +of its architecture, and above all the interesting +circumstances connected with its history, entitle +it to peculiar notice. It is also associated with +the enterprise of genius; for its name has been +blended with the reputation of Rowley, of +Canynge, and of Chatterton; and no lover of +poetry and admirer of art can visit it without a +degree of enthusiasm. And when the old building +shall have mouldered into ruins, even these +will be trodden with veneration as sacred to the +recollection of genius of the highest order. +Ascending a winding stair, we were shown into +the Treasury Room. The room forms an irregular +octagon, admitting light through narrow unglazed +apertures upon the broken and scattered +fragments of the famous Rowleian chests, that +with the rubble and dust of centuries cover the +floor. It is here creative fancy pictures forth the +<!-- Page 161 --><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161" title="161" class="pagenum"></a>sad image of the spirit of the spot—the ardent +boy, flushed and fed by hope, musing on the +brilliant deception he had conceived—whose +daring attempt has left his name unto the intellectual +world as a marvel and a mystery.</p> + +<p>That a boy under twelve years of age should +write a series of poems, imitating the style of the +fifteenth century, and palm these poems off +upon the world as the work of a monk, is indeed +strange; and that these should become the object +of interesting contemplation to the literary world, +and should awaken inquiries, and exercise the +talents of a Southey, a Bryant, a Miller, a +Mathias, and others, savours more of romance +than reality. I had visited the room in a garret +in High Holborn, where this poor boy died. I +had stood over a grave in the burial-ground of the +Lane Workhouse, which was pointed out to me as +the last resting-place of Chatterton; and now I +was in the room where it was alleged he obtained +the manuscripts that gave him such notoriety. +We descended and viewed other portions of the +church. The effect of the chancel, as seen behind +the pictures, is very singular, and suggestive of +<!-- Page 162 --><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162" title="162" class="pagenum"></a>many swelling thoughts. We look at the great +east window, it is unadorned with its wonted +painted glass; we look at the altar-screen beneath, +on which the light of day again falls, and behold +the injuries it has received at the hands of time. +There is a dreary mournfulness in the scene which +fastens on the mind, and is in unison with the +time-worn mouldering fragments that are seen +all around us. And this dreariness is not removed +by our tracing the destiny of man on the +storied pavements or on the graven brass, that +still bears upon its surface the names of those +who obtained the world's regard years back. +This old pile is not only an ornament to the city, +but it stands a living monument to the genius of +its founder. Bristol has long sustained a high +position as a place from which the American +Abolitionists have received substantial encouragement +in their arduous labours for the emancipation +of the slaves of that land; and the writer of +this received the best evidence that in this respect +the character of the people had not been exaggerated, +especially as regards the "Clifton Ladies' +Anti-Slavery Society."</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="LETTER_XXIIIA" id="LETTER_XXIIIA"></a>LETTER <ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: As per editor's footnote, this letter moved to here.">XXIII.</ins><a name="FNanchor_A_1" id="FNanchor_A_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_A_1" class="fnanchor" +title="This letter is rather out of its proper place here. I had mislaid the MS., and my distance from the printer prevented the matter being rectified. In another edition, the transposition can be effected.">[A]</a></h2> + +<h3>Aberdeen—Passage by Steamer—Edinburgh—Visit +to the College—William and Ellen +Craft.</h3> + + +<p><span style="font-variant: small-caps;">I have</span> visited few places where I found more +warm friends than in Aberdeen. This is the +Granite City of Scotland.</p> + +<p>Aberdeen reminds one of Boston, especially in +a walk down Union Street, which is said to be +one of the finest promenades in Europe.</p> + +<p>The town is situated on a neck of land between +<!-- Page 306 --><a name="Page_306" id="Page_306" title="306" class="pagenum"></a>the rivers Dee and Don, and is the most important +place in the north of Scotland. During our third +day in the city, we visited among other places the +Old Bridge of Don, which is not only resorted to +on account of its antique celebrity and peculiar +appearance, but also because of the notoriety that +it has gained by Lord Byron's poem of the +"Bridge of Don."</p> + +<p>An engagement to be in Edinburgh and +vicinity, cut short our stay in the north. The +very mild state of the weather, and a wish to see +something of the coast between Aberdeen and +Edinburgh, induced us to make the journey by +water.</p> + +<p>On Friday evening, the 14th, after delivering a +lecture before the Total Abstinence Society, in +company with William and Ellen Craft, I went +on board the steamer bound for Edinburgh. On +reaching the vessel, we found the drawing-room +almost entirely at our service, and prejudice +against colour being unknown, we had no difficulty +in getting the best accommodation which +the steamer could furnish. This is so unlike the +pro-slavery, negro-hating spirit of America, that +<!-- Page 307 --><a name="Page_307" id="Page_307" title="307" class="pagenum"></a>the Crafts seemed almost bewildered by the transition. +I had been in the saloon but a short +time, when, looking at the newspapers on the +table, I discovered the <i>North Star</i>. It was like +meeting with a friend in a strange land. I +looked in vain on the margin for the name +of its owner, but as I did not feel at liberty +to take it, and as it appeared to be alone, +I laid the <i>Liberator</i> by its side to keep it +company.</p> + +<p>The night was a glorious one. The sky was +without a speck; and the clear, piercing air had +a brilliancy I have seldom seen. The moon was +in its zenith—the steamer and surrounding objects +were beautiful in the extreme. The boat +got under weigh at a little past twelve, and we +were soon out at sea. The "Queen" is a splendid +craft, and without the aid of sails, was able to +make fifteen miles within the hour. I was up +the next morning before the sun, and found the +sea as on the previous night—as calm and smooth +as a mirror. It was a delightful morning, more +like April than February; and the sun, as it rose, +seemed to fire every peak of the surrounding +<!-- Page 308 --><a name="Page_308" id="Page_308" title="308" class="pagenum"></a>hills. On our left, lay the Island of May, while +to the right was to be seen the small fishing +town of Anstruther, twenty miles distant from +Edinburgh. Beyond these, on either side, was +a range of undulating blue mountains, swelling +as they retired, into a bolder outline and a loftier +altitude, until they terminated some twenty-five +or thirty miles in the dim distance. A friend at +my side pointed out a place on the right, where +the remains of an old castle or look-out house, +used in the time of the border wars, once stood, +and which reminded us of the barbarism of the +past.</p> + +<p>But these signs are fast disappearing. The +plough and roller have passed over many of these +foundations, and the time will soon come, when +the antiquarian will look in vain for those places +that history has pointed out to him, as connected +with the political and religious struggles of the +past. The steward of the vessel came round to +see who of the passengers wished for breakfast, +and as the keen air of the morning had given me +an appetite, and there being no prejudice on the +score of colour, I took my seat at the table and +<!-- Page 309 --><a name="Page_309" id="Page_309" title="309" class="pagenum"></a>gave ample evidence that I was not an invalid. +On returning to the deck again, I found we had +entered the Forth, and that "Modern Athens" +was in sight; and, far above every other object, +with its turrets almost lost in the clouds, could +be seen Edinburgh Castle. After landing, a +pleasant ride over one of the finest roads in Scotland, +with a sprinkling of beautiful villas on +either side, brought us once more to Cannon's +Hotel.</p> + +<p>In a city like Edinburgh, there is always something +to keep the public alive, but during our three +days' stay in the town, on this occasion, there +were topics under discussion which seemed +to excite the people, although I had been +told that the Scotch were not excitable. Indeed +all Edinburgh seemed to have gone mad about the +Pope. If his Holiness should think fit to pay a +visit to his new dominions, I would advise him to +keep out of reach of the Scotch.</p> + +<p>In company with the Crafts, I visited the +Calton Hill, from which we had a delightful +view of the city and surrounding country. +I had an opportunity during my stay +<!-- Page 310 --><a name="Page_310" id="Page_310" title="310" class="pagenum"></a>in the city, of visiting the Infirmary, and +was pleased to see among the two or three +hundred students, three coloured young men, +seated upon the same benches with those of a fairer +complexion, and yet there appeared no feeling on +the part of the whites towards their coloured +associates, except of companionship and respect. +One of the cardinal truths, both of religion and +freedom, is the equality and brotherhood of man. +In the sight of God and all just institutions, the +whites can claim no precedence or privilege, on +account of their being white; and if coloured men +are not treated as they should be in the educational +institutions in America, it is a pleasure to know +that all distinction ceases by crossing the broad +Atlantic. I had scarcely left the lecture room of +the Institute and reached the street, when I met a +large number of the students on their way to the +college, and here again were seen coloured men arm +in arm with whites. The proud American who finds +himself in the splendid streets of Edinburgh, and +witnesses such scenes as these, can but behold in +them the degradation of his own country, whose +laws would make slaves of these same young men, +<!-- Page 311 --><a name="Page_311" id="Page_311" title="311" class="pagenum"></a>should they appear in the streets of Charleston or +New Orleans.</p> + +<p>After all, our country is the most despotic in +the wide world, and to expose and hold it up to +the scorn and contempt of other nations, is the +duty of every coloured man who would be true to +himself and his race.</p> + +<p><br /> +During my stay in Edinburgh, I accepted an +invitation to breakfast with the great champion of +Philosophical Phrenology. Few foreigners are +more admired in America, than the author of +"The Constitution of Man."<a name="FNanchor_B_2" id="FNanchor_B_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_B_2" class="fnanchor" +title="George Combe, Esq.">[B]</a> Although not far +from 70 years of age, I found him apparently as +active and as energetic as many men of half that +age. He was much pleased with Mr. and Mrs. +Craft, who formed a part of the breakfast party. +It may be a pleasure to the friends of these two +fugitive slaves, to know that they are now the inmates +of a good school where they are now being +educated. For this, they are mainly indebted to +that untiring friend of the Slave, John B. Estlin, +Esq., of Bristol, whose zeal and co-operation with +the American Abolitionists, have gained for him +an undying name with the friends of freedom in +the New World.<!-- Page 312 --><a name="Page_312" id="Page_312" title="312" class="pagenum"></a></p> + + + + +<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_A_1" id="Footnote_A_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_A_1"><span class="label">[A]</span></a> This letter is rather out of its proper place here. +I had mislaid the MS., and my distance from the printer prevented +the matter being rectified. In another edition, the transposition +can be effected.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_B_2" id="Footnote_B_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_B_2"><span class="label">[B]</span></a> George Combe, Esq.</p></div> + +</div> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<div><!-- Page 163 --><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163" title="163" class="pagenum"></a></div> +<h2><a name="LETTER_XIII" id="LETTER_XIII"></a>LETTER XIII.</h2> + + +<h3>Edinburgh—The Royal Institute—Scott's Monument—John +Knox's Pulpit—Temperance +Meeting—Glasgow—Great Meeting in the +City Hall.</h3> + + +<p class="quotdate"><span style="font-variant: small-caps;">Edinburgh</span>, <i>January 1, 1851</i>.</p> + +<p><span style="font-variant: small-caps;">You</span> will see by the date of this that I am spending +my New-Year's-Day in the Scottish Capital, +in company with our friend, William Craft. I +came by invitation to attend a meeting of the +Edinburgh Ladies' Emancipation Society.</p> + +<p>The meeting was held on Monday evening +last, at which William Craft gave, for the first +time, since his arrival in this country, a history +of his escape from Georgia, two years ago, +together with his recent flight from Boston.</p> + +<p>Craft's reception was one of deep enthusiasm, +and his story was well told, and made a powerful +impression on the audience. I would that the +slaveholders, Hughes and Knight, could have been +present and heard the thundering applause with +<!-- Page 164 --><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164" title="164" class="pagenum"></a>which our friend was received on the following +evening. Craft attended a meeting of the Edinburgh +Total Abstinence Society, before which I +lectured, and his appearance here was also hailed +with much enthusiasm. Our friend bids fair to +become a favourite with the Scotch.</p> + +<p>Much regret was expressed that Ellen was not +present. She was detained in Liverpool by indisposition. +But Mrs. Craft has so far recovered, +that we expect her here to-morrow.</p> + +<p>The appearance of these two fugitives in Great +Britain, at this time, and under the circumstances, +will aid our cause, and create a renewed hatred to +the abominable institution of American slavery. I +have received letters from a number of the friends +of the slave, in which they express a wish to aid +the Crafts; and among the first of these, were our +good friends, John B. Estlin, Esq., of Bristol, and +Harriet Martineau.</p> + +<p>But I must give you my impression of this fine +city. Edinburgh is the most picturesque of all +the towns which I have visited since my arrival in +the father-land. Its situation has been compared +to that of Athens, but it is said that the modern +<!-- Page 165 --><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165" title="165" class="pagenum"></a>Athens is superior to the ancient. I was deeply +impressed with the idea that I had seen the most +beautiful of cities, after beholding those fashionable +resorts, Paris and Versailles. I have seen +nothing in the way of public grounds to compare +with the gardens of Versailles, or the <i>Champs +<ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: "Elyses" in the original text">Elysees</ins> </i> at Paris; and as for statuary, the latter +place is said to take the lead of the rest of the +world.</p> + +<p>The general appearance of Edinburgh prepossesses +one in its favour. The town being built +upon the brows of a large terrace, presents the +most wonderful perspective. Its first appearance +to a stranger, and the first impression, can scarcely +be but favourable. In my first walk through +the town, I was struck with the difference in the +appearance of the people from the English. But +the difference between the Scotch and the +Americans, is very great. The cheerfulness +depicted in the countenances of the people here, +and their free and easy appearance, is very striking +to a stranger. He who taught the sun to +shine, the flowers to bloom, the birds to sing, and +blesses us with rain, never intended that his +<!-- Page 166 --><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166" title="166" class="pagenum"></a>creatures should look sad. There is a wide +difference between the Americans and any other +people which I have seen. The Scotch are +healthy and robust, unlike the long-faced, sickly-looking +Americans.</p> + +<p>While on our journey from London to Paris, to +attend the Peace Congress, I could not but observe +the marked difference between the English and +American delegates. The former looked as if +their pockets had been filled with sandwiches, +made of good bread and roast beef, while the +latter appeared as if their pockets had been filled +with Holloway's Pills, and Mrs. Kidder's Cordial.</p> + +<p>I breakfasted this morning in a room in which +the Poet Burns, as I was informed, had often sat. +The conversation here turned upon Burns. +The lady of the house pointed to a scrap of +poetry which was in a frame hanging on the +wall, written, as she said, by the Poet, on hearing +the people rejoicing in a church over the +intelligence of a victory. I copied it and will +give it to you:—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div><span style="margin-left: -.5em;">"Ye hypocrites! are these your pranks,</span></div> +<div>To murder men and give God thanks?</div> +<div><!-- Page 167 --><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167" title="167" class="pagenum"></a>For shame! give o'er, proceed no further,</div> +<div>God won't accept your thanks for murder."</div> +</div></div> + + +<p>The fact that I was in the room where Scotland's +great national poet had been a visitor, +caused me to feel that I was on classic, if not +hallowed ground. On returning from our morning +visit, we met a gentleman with a coloured lady +on each arm. Craft remarked in a very dry +manner, "If they were in Georgia, the slaveholders +would make them walk in a more hurried +gait than they do." I said to my friend, that if +he meant the pro-slavery prejudice would not +suffer them to walk peaceably through the +streets, they need go no further than the pro-slavery +cities of New York and Philadelphia. When +walking through the streets, I amused myself, by +watching Craft's countenance; and in doing so, +imagined I saw the changes experienced by every +fugitive slave in his first month's residence in +this country. A sixteen months' residence has +not yet familiarized me with the change.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + + +<p class="quotdate"><!-- Page 168 --><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168" title="168" class="pagenum"></a><span style="font-variant: small-caps;">Laurel Bank</span>, <i>Jan. 18, 1851</i>.</p> + +<p><span style="font-variant: small-caps;">Dear Douglass</span>,—I remained in Edinburgh a +day or two after the date of my last letter, which +gave me an opportunity of seeing some of the +lions in the way of public buildings, &c., in +company with our friend Wm. Craft. I paid a +visit to the Royal Institute, and inspected the +very fine collection of paintings, statues, and +other productions of art. The collection in the +Institute is not to be compared to the British +Museum at London, or the Louvre at Paris, but is +probably the best in Scotland. Paintings from +the hands of many of the masters, such as Sir A. +Vandyke, Tiziano, Vercellio and Van Dellen, +were hanging on the wall, and even the names of +Reubens, and Titian, were attached to some of +the finer specimens. Many of these represent +some of the nobles, and distinguished families of +Rome, Athens, Greece, &c. A beautiful one +representing a group of the Lomellini family of +Genoa, seemed to attract the attention of most of +the visitors.</p> + +<p>In visiting this place, we passed close by the +monument of Sir Walter Scott. This is the +<!-- Page 169 --><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169" title="169" class="pagenum"></a>most exquisite thing of the kind that I have seen +since coming to this country. It is said to be +the finest monument in Europe. There sits the +author of "Waverley," with a book and pencil in +hand, taking notes. A beautiful dog is seated by +his side. Whether this is meant to represent his +favourite dog, Camp, at whose death the Poet shed +so many tears, we were not informed; but I was of +opinion that it might be the faithful Percy, +whose monument stands in the grounds at Abbotsford. +Scott was an admirer of the canine +tribe. One may form a good idea of the appearance +of this distinguished writer, when living, by +viewing this remarkable statue. The statue is +very beautiful, but not equal to the one of +Lord Byron, which was executed to be placed +by the side of Johnson, Milton, and Addison, +in Poets' Corner, Westminster Abbey; but the +Parliament not allowing it a place there, it now +stands in one of the Colleges at Cambridge. +While viewing the statue of Byron, I thought +he, too, should have been represented with a +dog by his side, for he, like Scott, was remarkably +fond of dogs, so much so that he in<!-- Page 170 --><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170" title="170" class="pagenum"></a>tended +to have his favourite, Boatswain, interred +by his side.</p> + +<p>We paid a short visit to the monuments of +Burns and Allan Ramsay, and the renowned old +Edinburgh Castle. The Castle is now used as +a barrack for Infantry. It is accessible only from +the High Street, and must have been impregnable +before the discovery of gunpowder. In the wars +with the English, it was twice taken by stratagem; +once in a very daring manner, by climbing +up the most inaccessible part of the rock upon +which it stands, and where a foe was least expected, +and putting the guard to death; and +another time, by a party of soldiers disguising +themselves as merchants, and obtaining admission +inside the Castle gates. They succeeded +in preventing the gates from being closed, until +reinforced by a party of men under Sir Wm. +Douglas, who soon overpowered the occupants of +the Castle.</p> + +<p>We could not resist the temptation held out to +see the Palace of Holyrood. It was in this place +that the beautiful, but unfortunate Mary, Queen +of Scots, resided for a number of years. On +<!-- Page 171 --><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171" title="171" class="pagenum"></a>reaching the palace, we were met at the door by +an elderly looking woman, with a red face, garnished +with a pair of second-hand curls, the +whole covered with a cap having the widest border +that I had seen for years. She was very kind +in showing us about the premises, especially as +we were foreigners, no doubt expecting an extra +fee for politeness. The most interesting of the +many rooms in this ancient castle, is the one +which was occupied by the Queen, and where her +Italian favourite, Rizzio, was murdered.</p> + +<p>But by far the most interesting object which +we visited while in Edinburgh, was the house +where the celebrated Reformer, John Knox, <ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: "re-resided" in the original text">resided</ins>. +It is a queer-looking old building, with +a pulpit on the outside, and above the door are +the nearly obliterated remains of the following +inscription:—"Lufe. God. Above. Al. And. your. +Nichbour. As you. Self." This was probably +traced under the immediate direction of the great +Reformer. Such an inscription put upon a house +of worship at the present day, would be laughed +at. I have given it to you, punctuation and all, +just as it stands.</p> + +<p><!-- Page 172 --><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172" title="172" class="pagenum"></a>The general architecture of Edinburgh is very +imposing, whether we regard the picturesque +disorder of the buildings, in the Old Town, or the +symmetrical proportions of the streets and squares +in the New. But on viewing this city which has +the reputation of being the finest in Europe, I +was surprised to find that it had none of those +sumptuous structures, which like St. Paul's, or +Westminster Abbey, York Minster, and some other +of the English provincial Cathedrals, astonish the +beholder alike by their magnitude and their +architectural splendour. But in no city which I +have visited in the kingdom, is the general +standard of excellence better maintained than in +Edinburgh.</p> + +<p>I am not sure, my dear friend, whether or not +I mentioned in my last letter the attendance +of Wm. Craft and myself at a splendid Soiree of +the Edinburgh Temperance Society, and our being +voted in life members, in the most enthusiastic +manner, by the whole audience. I will here give +you a part of the speech of the President, as +reported in the <i>Christian News</i>. This should +cause the pro-slavery whites, and especially negro-<!-- Page 173 --><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173" title="173" class="pagenum"></a>hating +Sons of Temperance, who refuse the +coloured man a place in their midst, to feel +ashamed of their unchristian conduct. Here it is, +let them judge for themselves:—</p> + +<p>"A great feature in our meeting to-night, is +that we have beside us two individuals, who, according +to the immaculate laws of immaculate +Yankeedom, have been guilty of the tremendous +crime of stealing themselves. (Applause.) Mr. +Craft, who sits beside me, has stolen his good +wife, and Mrs. Craft has stolen her worthy husband; +and our respected friend, Mr. Brown, has +cast a covetous eye on his own person. In the +name of the Temperance reformers of Edinburgh—in +the name of universal Scotland, I would +welcome these two victims of the white man's +pride, ambition, selfishness, and cupidity. I welcome +them as our equals in every respect. (Great +applause.) What a humiliating thought it will +be, surely, for our American friends on the other +side of the water, when they hear (and we shall +endeavour to let them hear) that the very man +whom they consider not worthy to sit in a third +class carriage along with a white man, and that +<!-- Page 174 --><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174" title="174" class="pagenum"></a>too in a district of country where the very aristocracy +deal in cheap cheese—(great applause) +traffic in tallow candles, and spend their nights +and days among raw hides and train oil—(applause)—what +a humbling thought it will be for +them to know that these very men in the centre +of educated Scotland, in the midst of educated +Edinburgh, are thought fit to hold even the first +rank upon our aristocratic platform. Let us, then, +my friends, lift our voices this evening in one +swelling chorus for the down-trodden slave. Let +us publish abroad the fact to the world, that the +sympathies of Scotland are with the bondsman +everywhere. Let us unite our voices to cry, Down +with the iniquitous Slave Bill!—Down with the aristocracy +of the skin!—Perish forever the deepest-dyed, +the hardest-hearted system of abomination +under heaven!—Perish the sum of all villanies! +Perish American slavery. (Great applause.)"</p> + +<p>But I must leave the good and hospitable people +of the Scottish Capital for the present. I have +taken an elaborate stock of notes, and may speak +of Edinburgh again.</p> + +<p>I left William and Ellen Craft (the latter of +<!-- Page 175 --><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175" title="175" class="pagenum"></a>whom has just come to Edinburgh), and took the +Glasgow train, and after a ride of two hours +through a beautiful country, with its winding hills +on either side—its fertile fields, luxuriant woods, +and stately mansions lying around us, arrived in +the muddy, dirty, smoky, foggy city of Glasgow. +As I had had a standing invitation from a distinguished +gentleman with whom I became acquainted +in London, to partake of his hospitality, +should I ever visit Glasgow, and again received +a note while in Edinburgh renewing the invitation, +I proceeded to his residence at Partick, three +miles from Glasgow. This is one of the loveliest +spots which I have yet seen. Our mansion is on +the side of Laurel Bank, a range of the Kilpatrick +hills. We have a view of the surrounding country.</p> + +<p>On Monday evening, Jan. 6, a public meeting +was held in the City Hall, to extend a welcome +to the American fugitive slaves. The hall, one of +the largest in the kingdom, was filled at an early +hour. At the appointed time, Alex. Hastie, Esq., +M.P., entered the great room, followed by the +fugitives and most of the leading abolitionists, amid +<!-- Page 176 --><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176" title="176" class="pagenum"></a>rapturous applause. With a Member of Parliament +in the chair, and almost any number of +clergymen on the platform, the meeting had an +influential appearance. From report, I had +imbibed the opinion that the Scotch were not +easily moved, but if I may judge from the enthusiasm +which characterised the City Hall demonstration, +I should place them but little behind the +English. After an excellent speech from the +Chairman, and spirited addresses from several +clergymen, William Craft was introduced to the +meeting, and gave an account of the escape of +himself and wife from slavery, and their subsequent +flight from Boston. Any description of +mine would give but a poor idea of the intense +feeling that pervaded the meeting. I think all +who were there, left the hall after hearing that +noble fugitive, with a greater abhorrence of +American slavery than they previously entertained.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<div><!-- Page 177 --><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177" title="177" class="pagenum"></a></div> +<h2><a name="LETTER_XIV" id="LETTER_XIV"></a>LETTER XIV.</h2> + +<h3>Stirling—Dundee—Dr. Dick—Geo. Gilfillan—Dr. +Dick at home.</h3> + + +<p class="quotdate"><span style="font-variant: small-caps;">Perth, Scotland</span>, <i>Jan. 31, 1851</i>.</p> + +<p><span style="font-variant: small-caps;">I am</span> glad once more to breathe an atmosphere +uncontaminated by the fumes and smoke of a +city with its population of three hundred thousand +inhabitants. In company with our friends Wm. +and Ellen Craft, I left Glasgow on the afternoon +of the 23d inst., for Dundee, a beautiful town +situated on the banks of the river Tay. One like +myself, who has spent the best part of an eventful +life in cities, and who prefers, as I do, a country +to a town life, feels a greater degree of freedom +when surrounded by forest trees, or country +dwellings, and looking upon a clear sky, than when +walking through the thronged thoroughfares of a +city, with its dense population, meeting every +moment a new or strange face which one has +never seen before, and never expects to see again. +Although I had met with one of the warmest +<!-- Page 178 --><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178" title="178" class="pagenum"></a>public receptions with which I have been greeted +since my arrival in the country, and had had +an opportunity of shaking hands with many noble +friends of the slave, whose names I had often seen +in print, yet I felt glad to see the tall chimneys +and smoke of Glasgow receding in the distance, +as our 'iron horse' was taking us with almost +lightning speed from the commercial capital of +Scotland.</p> + +<p>The distance from Glasgow to Dundee is some +seventy or eighty miles, and we passed through +the finest country which I have seen in this +portion of the Queen's dominions. We passed +through the old town of Stirling, which lies +about thirty miles distant from Glasgow, and +is a place much frequented by those who travel +for pleasure. It is built on the brow of a hill, +and the Castle from which it most probably +derived its name, may be seen from a distance. +Had it not been for a "professional" engagement +the same evening at Dundee, I would most +assuredly have halted to take a look at the old +building.</p> + +<p>The Castle is situated or built on an isolated +<!-- Page 179 --><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179" title="179" class="pagenum"></a>rock, which seems as if Nature had thrown it +there for that purpose. It was once the retreat +of the Scottish Kings, and famous for its historical +associations. Here the "Lady of the Lake," +with the magic ring, sought the monarch to +intercede for her father; here James II. murdered +the Earl of Douglas; here the beautiful but +unfortunate Mary was made Queen; and here +John Knox, the Reformer, preached the coronation +sermon of James VI. The Castle Hill rises +from the valley of the Forth, and makes an +imposing and picturesque appearance. The windings +of the noble river till lost in the distance, +present pleasing contrasts, scarcely to be surpassed.</p> + +<p>The speed of our train, after passing Stirling, +brought before us, in quick succession, a number +of fine valleys and farm houses. Every spot +seemed to have been arrayed by Nature for the +reception of the cottage of some happy family. +During this ride, we passed many sites where the +lawns were made, the terraces defined and +levelled, the groves tastefully clumped, the ancient +trees, though small when compared to our +<!-- Page 180 --><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180" title="180" class="pagenum"></a>great forest oaks, were beautifully sprinkled here +and there, and in everything the labour of art +seemed to have been anticipated by Nature. +Cincinnatus could not have selected a prettier +situation for a farm, than some which presented +themselves, during this delightful journey. +At last we arrived at the place of our +destination, where our friends were in waiting +for us.</p> + +<p>As I have already forwarded to you a paper +containing an account of the Dundee meeting, I +shall leave you to judge from these reports the character +of the demonstration. Yet I must mention +a fact or two connected with our first evening's +visit to this town. A few hours after our arrival +in the place, we were called upon by a gentleman +whose name is known wherever the English language +is spoken—one whose name is on the +tongue of every student and school-boy in this +country and America, and what lives upon their +lips will live and be loved for ever.</p> + +<p>We were seated over a cup of strong tea, to +revive our spirits for the evening, when our friend +entered the room, accompanied by a gentleman, +<!-- Page 181 --><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181" title="181" class="pagenum"></a>small in stature, and apparently seventy-five +years of age, yet he appeared as active as one +half that age. Feeling half drowsy from riding in +the cold, and then the sudden change to a warm +fire, I was rather inclined not to move on the +entrance of the stranger. But the name of +Thomas Dick, LL.D., roused me in a moment, +from my lethargy; I could scarcely believe that I +was in the presence of the "Christian Philosopher." +Dr. Dick is one of the men to whom the age is +indebted. I never find myself in the presence of +one to whom the world owes so much as Dr. +Dick, without feeling a thrilling emotion, as +if I were in the land of spirits. Dr. Dick had +come to our lodgings to see and congratulate +Wm. and Ellen Craft upon their escape from the +republican Christians of the United States; and +as he pressed the hand of the "white slave," and +bid her "welcome to British soil," I saw the +silent tear stealing down the cheek of this man of +genius. How I wished that the many slaveholders +and pro-slavery professed Christians of +America, who have read and pondered the +philosophy of this man, could have been present. +<!-- Page 182 --><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182" title="182" class="pagenum"></a>Thomas Dick is an abolitionist—one who is willing +that the world should know that he hates +the "peculiar institution." At the meeting that +evening, Dr. Dick was among the most prominent. +But this was not the only distinguished man who +took part on that occasion.</p> + +<p>Another great mind was on the platform, and +entered his solemn protest in a manner long to +be remembered by those present. This was the +Rev. George Gilfillan, well known as the author +of the "Portraits of Literary Men." Mr. Gilfillan +is an energetic speaker, and would have +been the lion of the evening, even if many others +who are more distinguished as platform orators +had been present. I think it was Napoleon who +said that the enthusiasm of others abated his own. +At any rate, the spirit with which each speaker +entered upon his duty for the evening, abated my +own enthusiasm for the time being. The last day +of our stay in Dundee, I paid a visit, by invitation, +to Dr. Dick, at his residence in the little +village of Broughty Ferry. We found the great +astronomer in his parlour waiting for us. From +the parlour we went to the new study, and here I +<!-- Page 183 --><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183" title="183" class="pagenum"></a>felt more at ease, for I went to see the Philosopher +in his study, and not in his drawing-room. But +even this room had too much the look of nicety +to be an author's <i>sanctum</i>; and I inquired and +was soon informed by Mrs. Dick, that I should +have a look at the "<i>old study</i>."</p> + +<p>During a sojourn of eighteen months in Great +Britain, I have had the good fortune to meet with +several distinguished literary characters, and have +always managed, while at their places of abode, +to see the table and favourite chair. Wm. and +Ellen Craft were seeing what they could see +through a microscope, when Mrs. Dick returned +to the room, and intimated that we could now +see the old literary workshop. I followed, and +was soon in a room about fifteen feet square, +with but one window, which occupied one side of +the room. The walls of the other three sides +were lined with books. And many of these +looked the very personification of age. I took +my seat in the "<i>old arm chair</i>;" and here, +thought I, is the place and the seat in which this +distinguished man sat, while weaving the radiant +wreath of renown which now in his old age sur<!-- Page 184 --><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184" title="184" class="pagenum"></a>rounds +him, and whose labours will be more appreciated +by future ages than the present.</p> + +<p>I took a farewell of the author of the "Solar +System," but not until I had taken a look +through the great telescope in the observatory. +This instrument, through which I tried to see +the heavens, was not the one invented by Galileo, +but an improvement upon the original. On +leaving this learned man, he shook hands with +us, and bade us "God speed" in our mission; +and I left the philosopher, feeling I had not +passed an hour more agreeably, with a literary +character, since the hour which I spent with +Poet Montgomery a few months since. And, by-the-bye, +there is a resemblance between the poet +and the philosopher. In becoming acquainted +with great men, I have become a convert to the +opinion, that a big nose is an almost necessary +appendage to the form of a man with a giant +intellect. If those whom I have seen be a criterion, +such is certainly the case. But I have +spun out this too long, and must close.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<div><!-- Page 185 --><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185" title="185" class="pagenum"></a></div> +<h2><a name="LETTER_XV" id="LETTER_XV"></a>LETTER XV.</h2> + +<h3>Melrose Abbey—Abbotsford—Dryburgh Abbey—The +Grave of Sir Walter Scott—Hawick—Gretna +Green—Visit to the Lakes.</h3> + + +<p class="quotdate"><span style="font-variant: small-caps;">York</span>, <i>March 26, 1851</i>.</p> + +<p><span style="font-variant: small-caps;">I closed</span> my last letter in the ancient town of +Melrose, on the banks of the Tweed, and within +a stone's throw of the celebrated ruins from which +the town derives its name. The valley in which +Melrose is situated, and the surrounding hills, +together with the Monastery, have so often been +made a theme for the Scottish bards, that this has +become the most interesting part of Scotland. +Of the many gifted writers who have taken up +the pen, none have done more to bring the Eildon +Hills and Melrose Abbey into note, than the +author of "Waverley." But who can read his +writings without a regret, that he should have so +woven fact and fiction together, that it is almost +impossible to discriminate between the one and +the other.</p> + +<p><!-- Page 186 --><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186" title="186" class="pagenum"></a>We arrived at Melrose in the evening, and +proceeded to the chapel where our meeting was to +be held, and where our friends, the Crafts, were +warmly greeted. On returning from the meeting, +we passed close by the ruins of Melrose, and, very +fortunately, it was a moonlight night. There is +considerable difference of opinion among the +inhabitants of the place as regards the best time +to view the Abbey. The author of the "Lay of +the Last Minstrel," says:—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<div><span style="margin-left: -.5em;">"If thou wouldst view fair Melrose aright,</span></div> +<div>Go visit it by the pale moonlight:</div> +<div>For the gay beams of lightsome day</div> +<div>Gild but to flout the ruins gray."</div> +</div></div> + + +<p>In consequence of this admonition, I was informed +that many persons remain in town to see +the ruins by moonlight. Aware that the moon +did not send its rays upon the old building every +night in the year, I asked the keeper what he did +on dark nights. He replied that he had a large +lantern, which he put upon the end of a long +pole, and with this he succeeded in lighting up +the ruins. This good man laboured hard to convince +me that his invention was nearly, if not +<!-- Page 187 --><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187" title="187" class="pagenum"></a>quite as good, as Nature's own moon. But having +no need of an application of his invention to the +Abbey, I had no opportunity of judging of its +effect. I thought, however, that he had made a +moon to some purpose, when he informed me that +some nights, with his pole and lantern, he earned +his four or five shillings. Not being content +with a view by "moonlight alone," I was up the +next morning before the sun, and paid my respects +to the Abbey. I was too early for the keeper, +and he handed me the key through the window, +and I entered the rooms alone. It is one +labyrinth of gigantic arches and dilapidated halls, +the ivy growing and clinging wherever it can +fasten its roots, and the whole as fine a picture of +decay as imagination could create. This was the +favourite resort of Sir Walter Scott, and furnished +him much matter for the "Lay of the Last +Minstrel." He could not have selected a more +fitting place for solitary thought than this ancient +abode of monks and priests. In passing through +the cloisters, I could not but remark the carvings +of leaves and flowers, wrought in stone in the most +exquisite manner, looking as fresh as if they were +<!-- Page 188 --><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188" title="188" class="pagenum"></a>just from the hands of the artist. The lapse of +centuries seems not to have made any impression +upon them, or changed their appearance in the +least. I sat down among the ruins of the Abbey. +The ground about was piled up with magnificent +fragments of stone, representing various +texts of Scripture, and the quaint ideas of the +priests and monks of that age. Scene after scene +swept through my fancy as I looked upon the +surrounding objects. I could almost imagine I +saw the bearded monks going from hall to hall, +and from cell to cell. In visiting these dark cells, +the mind becomes oppressed by a sense of the +utter helplessness of the victims who once passed +over the thresholds and entered these religious +prisons. There was no help or hope but +in the will that ordered their fate. How painful +it is to gaze upon these walls, and to think how +many tears have been shed by their inmates, when +this old Monastery was in its glory. I ascended +to the top of the ruin by a circuitous stairway, +whose stone steps were worn deep from use by +many who, like myself, had visited them to gratify +a curiosity. From the top of the Abbey, I had a +<!-- Page 189 --><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189" title="189" class="pagenum"></a>splendid view of the surrounding hills and the +beautiful valley through which flows the Gala +Water and Tweed. This is unquestionably the +most splendid specimen of Gothic architectural +ruin in Scotland. But any description of mine +conveys but a poor idea to the fancy. To be +realized, it must be seen.</p> + +<p>During the day, we paid a visit to Abbotsford, +the splendid mansion of the late Sir Walter Scott, +Bart. This beautiful seat is situated on the +banks of the Tweed, just below its junction with +the Gala Water. It is a dreary looking spot, +and the house from the opposite side of the river +has the appearance of a small, low castle. In a +single day's ride through England, one may see +half a dozen cottages larger than Abbotsford +House. I was much disappointed in finding the +premises undergoing repairs and alterations, and +that all the trees between the house and the river +had been cut down. This is to be regretted the +more, because they were planted, nearly every +one of them, by the same hand that waved its +wand of enchantment over the world. The fountain +had been removed from where it had been +<!-- Page 190 --><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190" title="190" class="pagenum"></a>placed by the hands of the Poet to the centre of +the yard; and even a small stone that had been +placed over the favourite dog "Percy," had been +taken up and thrown among some loose stones. +One visits Abbotsford because of the genius of +the man that once presided over it. Everything +connected with the great Poet is of interest to +his admirers, and anything altered or removed, +tends to diminish that interest. We entered the +house, and were conducted through the great Hall, +which is hung all round with massive armour of +all descriptions, and other memorials of ancient +times. The floor is of white and black marble. +In passing through the hall, we entered a narrow +arched room, stretching quite across the building, +having a window at each end. This little or +rather narrow room is filled with all kinds of +armour, which is arranged with great taste. We +were next shown into the Dining-room, whose +roof is of black oak, richly carved. In this room +is a painting of the head of Queen Mary, in a +charger, taken the day after the execution. +Many other interesting portraits grace the walls +of this room. But by far the finest apartment +<!-- Page 191 --><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191" title="191" class="pagenum"></a>in the building is the Drawing-room, with a lofty +ceiling, and furnished with antique ebony furniture. +After passing through the Library, with its +twenty thousand volumes, we found ourselves in +the Study, and I sat down in the same chair where +once sat the Poet; while before me was the table +upon which was written the "Lady of the Lake," +"Waverley," and other productions of this gifted +writer. The clothes last worn by the Poet were +shown to us. There was the broad skirted blue +coat, with its large buttons, the plaid trousers, +the heavy shoes, the black vest and white hat. +These were all in a glass case, and all looked the +poet and novelist. But the inside of the buildings +had undergone alterations as well as the outside. +In passing through the Library, we saw a granddaughter +of the Poet. She was from London, +and was only on a visit of a few days. She +looked pale and dejected, and seemed as if she +longed to leave this secluded spot and return to +the metropolis. She looked for all the world like +a hothouse plant. I don't think the Scotch +could do better than to purchase Abbotsford, +while it has some imprint of the great magician, +<!-- Page 192 --><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192" title="192" class="pagenum"></a>and secure its preservation; for I am sure that, a +hundred years hence, no place will be more frequently +visited in Scotland than the home of the +late Sir Walter Scott. After sauntering three +hours about the premises, I left, but not without +feeling that I had been well paid for my trouble +in visiting Abbotsford.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon of the same day, in company +with the Crafts, I took a drive to Dryburgh +Abbey. It is a ruin of little interest, except as +being the burial place of Scott. The poet lies +buried in St. Mary's Aisle. His grave is in the +left transept of the cross, and close to where the +high altar formerly stood. Sir Walter Scott +chose his own grave, and he could not have +selected a sunnier spot if he had roamed the wide +world over. A shaded window breaks the sun as +it falls upon his grave. The ivy is creeping and +clinging wherever it can, as if it would shelter +the poet's grave from the weather. The author +lies between his wife and eldest son, and there is +only room enough for one grave more, and the +son's wife has the choice of being buried here.</p> + +<p>The four o'clock train took us to Hawick; +<!-- Page 193 --><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193" title="193" class="pagenum"></a>and after a pleasant visit in this place, and the +people registering their names against American +Slavery, and the Fugitive Bill in particular, we set +out for Carlisle, passing through the antique town +of Langholm. After leaving the latter place, we +had to travel by coach. But no matter how one +travels here, he travels at a more rapid rate than +in America. The distance from Langholm to +Carlisle, twenty miles, occupied only two and +a-half hours in the journey. It was a cold day and +I had to ride on the outside, as the inside had +been taken up. We changed horses, and took in +and put out passengers with a rapidity which +seems almost incredible. The road was as smooth +as a mirror.</p> + +<p>We bid farewell to Scotland, as we reached the +little town of Gretna Green. This town being on +the line between England and Scotland, is noted +as the place where a little cross-eyed, red-faced +blacksmith, by the name of Priestly, first set up +his own altar to Hymen, and married all who +came to him, without regard to rank or station, +and at prices to suit all. It was worth a ride +through this part of the country, if for no other +<!-- Page 194 --><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194" title="194" class="pagenum"></a>purpose than to see the town where more clandestine +marriages have taken place than in any other +part in the world. A ride of eight or nine +miles brought us in sight of the Eden, winding +its way slowly through a beautiful valley, with +farms on either side, covered with sheep and +cattle. Four very tall chimneys, sending forth +dense columns of black smoke, announced to us +that we were near Carlisle. I was really glad of +this, for Ulysses was never more tired of the +shores of Ilion than I of the top of that coach.</p> + +<p>We remained over night at Carlisle, partaking +of the hospitality of the prince of bakers, and left +the next day for the Lakes, where we had a standing +invitation to pay a visit to a distinguished +literary lady. A cold ride of about fifty miles +brought us to the foot of Lake Windermere, a +beautiful sheet of water, surrounded by mountains +that seemed to vie with each other which should +approach nearest the sky. The margin of the +lake is carved out <ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: "and and" in the original text">and</ins> built up into terrace +above terrace, until the slopes and windings are +lost in the snow-capped peaks of the mountains. +It is not surprising that such men as Southey, +<!-- Page 195 --><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195" title="195" class="pagenum"></a>Coleridge, Wordsworth, and others, resorted to +this region for inspiration. After a coach ride of +five miles (passing on our journey the "Dove's +Nest," home of the late Mrs. Hemans), we were +put down at the door of the Salutation Hotel, +Ambleside, and a few minutes after found ourselves +under the roof of the authoress of "Society +in America." I know not how it is with others, +but for my own part, I always form an opinion of +the appearance of an author whose writings I am at +all familiar with, or a statesman whose speeches I +have read. I had pictured in my own mind a tall, +stately-looking lady of about sixty years, as the authoress +of "Travels in the East," and for once I was +right, with the single exception that I had added on +too many years by twelve. The evening was spent +in talking about the United States; and William +Craft had to go through the narrative of his escape +from slavery. When I retired for the night, I +found it almost impossible to sleep. The idea that +I was under the roof of the authoress of "The +Hour and the Man," and that I was on the banks +of the sweetest lake in Great Britain, within half a +mile of the residence of the late poet Wordsworth, +<!-- Page 196 --><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196" title="196" class="pagenum"></a>drove sleep from my pillow. But I must leave an +account of my visit to the Lakes for a future +letter.</p> + +<p>When I look around and see the happiness +here, even among the poorer classes, and that too +in a country where the soil is not at all to be +compared with our own, I mourn for our down-trodden +countrymen, who are plundered, oppressed, +and made chattels of, to enable an ostentatious +aristocracy to vie with each other in splendid +extravagance.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="LETTER_XVI" id="LETTER_XVI"></a>LETTER XVI.</h2> + +<h3>Miss Martineau—"The Knoll"—"Ridal Mount"—"The +Dove's Nest"—Grave of William +Wordsworth, Esq.—The English Peasant.</h3> + + +<p class="quotdate"><i>May 30, 1851</i>.</p> + +<p><span style="font-variant: small-caps;">A series</span> of public meetings, one pressing +close upon the heel of another, must be an +apology for my six or eight weeks' silence. +<!-- Page 197 --><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197" title="197" class="pagenum"></a>But I hope that no temporary suspense on my +part will be construed into a want of interest in +our cause, or a wish to desist from giving occasionally +a scrap (such as it is) to the <i>North Star</i>.</p> + +<p>My last letter left me under the hospitable +roof of Harriet Martineau. I had long had an +invitation to visit this distinguished friend of our +race, and as the invitation was renewed during +my tour through the North, I did not feel disposed +to decline it, and thereby lose so favourable +an opportunity of meeting with one who had +written so much in behalf of the oppressed of our +land. About a mile from the head of Lake +Windermere, and immediately under Wonsfell, +and encircled by mountains on all sides, except +the south-west, lies the picturesque little town of +Ambleside, and the brightest spot in the place is +"The Knoll," the residence of Miss Martineau.</p> + +<p>We reached "The Knoll" a little after nightfall, +and a cordial shake of the hand by Miss M., +who was waiting for us, soon assured us that we +had met with a warm friend.</p> + +<p>It is not my intention to lay open the scenes of +domestic life at "The Knoll," nor to describe the +<!-- Page 198 --><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198" title="198" class="pagenum"></a>social parties of which my friends and I were +partakers during our sojourn within the hospitable +walls of this distinguished writer; but the name +of Miss M. is so intimately connected with the +Anti-slavery movement, by her early writings, and +those have been so much admired by the friends +of the slave in the United States, that I deem it +not at all out of place for me to give the readers +of the <i>North Star</i> some idea of the authoress +of "Political Economy," "Travels in the East," +"The Hour and the Man," &c.</p> + +<p>The dwelling is a cottage of moderate size, +built after Miss M.'s own plan, upon a rise of land +from which it derives the name of "The Knoll." +The Library is the largest room in the building, +and upon the walls of it were hung some beautiful +engravings and a continental map. On a +long table which occupied the centre of the room, +were the busts of Shakspere, Newton, Milton, +and a few other literary characters of the past. +One side of the room was taken up with a large +case, filled with a choice collection of books, and +everything indicated that it was the home of +genius and of taste.</p> + +<p><!-- Page 199 --><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199" title="199" class="pagenum"></a>The room usually occupied by Miss M., and +where we found her on the evening of our arrival, +is rather small and lighted by two large windows. +The walls of this room were also decorated with +prints and pictures, and on the mantle-shelf were +some models in <i>terra cottia</i> of Italian groups. +On a circular table lay casts, medallions, and +some very choice water-colour drawings. Under +the south window stood a small table covered +with newly opened letters, a portfolio and several +new books, with here and there a page turned +down, and one with a paper knife between its +leaves as if it had only been half read. I took +up the last mentioned, and it proved to be the +"Life and Poetry of Hartly Coleridge," son of +S.T. Coleridge. It was just from the press, and +had, a day or two before, been forwarded to her +by the publisher. Miss M. is very deaf and +always carries in her left hand a trumpet; and I +was not a little surprised on learning from her +that she had never enjoyed the sense of smell, +and only on one occasion the sense of taste, and +that for a single moment. Miss M. is loved with +a sort of idolatry by the people of Ambleside, and +<!-- Page 200 --><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200" title="200" class="pagenum"></a>especially the poor, to whom she gives a course of +lectures every winter gratuitously. She finished +her last course the day before our arrival. She +was much pleased with Ellen Craft, and appeared +delighted with the story of herself and husband's +escape from slavery, as related by the latter—during +the recital of which I several times saw +the silent tear stealing down her cheek, and +which she tried in vain to hide from us.</p> + +<p>When Craft had finished, she exclaimed, "I +would that every woman in the British Empire, +could hear that tale as I have, so that they might +know how their own sex was treated in that +boasted land of liberty." It seems strange to +the people of this county, that one so white +and so lady-like as Mrs. Craft, should have been +a slave and forced to leave the land of her nativity +and seek an asylum in a foreign country. The +morning after our arrival, I took a stroll by a +circuitous pathway to the top of Loughrigg Fell. +At the foot of the mount I met a peasant, who +very kindly offered to lend me his donkey, upon +which to ascend the mountain. Never having +been upon the back of one of these long eared +<!-- Page 201 --><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201" title="201" class="pagenum"></a>animals, I felt some hesitation about trusting +myself upon so diminutive <ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: "a looking" in the original text">looking a</ins> creature. +But being assured that if I would only resign +myself to his care and let him have his own way, +I would be perfectly safe, I mounted, and off +we set. We had, however, scarcely gone fifty +rods, when, in passing over a narrow part of the +path and overlooking a deep chasm, one of the +hind feet of the donkey slipped, and with an involuntary +shudder, I shut my eyes to meet my +expected doom; but fortunately the little fellow +gained his foothold, and in all probability saved +us both from a premature death. After we had +passed over this dangerous place, I dismounted, +and as soon as my feet had once more gained +<i>terra firma</i>, I resolved that I would never again +yield my own judgment to that of any one, not +even to a donkey.</p> + +<p>It seems as if Nature has amused herself in +throwing these mountains together. From the +top of the Loughrigg Fell, the eye loses its power +in gazing upon the objects below. On our left, +lay Rydal Mount, the beautiful seat of the late +poet Wordsworth. While to the right, and away +<!-- Page 202 --><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202" title="202" class="pagenum"></a>in the dim distance, almost hidden by the native +trees, was the cottage where once resided Mrs. +Hemans. And below us lay Windermere, looking +more like a river than a lake, and which, if +placed by the side of our own Ontario, Erie or +Huron, would be lost in the fog. But here it +looks beautiful in the extreme, surrounded as it +is by a range of mountains that have no parallel +in the United States for beauty. Amid a sun of +uncommon splendour, dazzling the eye with the +reflection upon the water below, we descended +into the valley, and I was soon again seated by +the fireside of our hospitable hostess. In the +afternoon of the same day, we took a drive to the +"Dove's Nest," the home of the late Mrs. Hemans.</p> + +<p>We did not see the inside of the house, on account +of its being occupied by a very eccentric +man, who will not permit a woman to enter the +house, and it is said that he has been known to +run when a female had unconsciously intruded +herself upon his premises. And as our company +was in part composed of ladies, we had to share +their fate, and therefore were prevented from seeing +the interior of the Dove's Nest. The exhibitor +<!-- Page 203 --><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203" title="203" class="pagenum"></a>of such a man would be almost sure of a prize at +the great Exhibition.</p> + +<p>At the head of Grassmere Lake, and surrounded +by a few cottages, stands an old gray, antique-looking +Parish Church, venerable with the lapse +of centuries, and the walls partly covered with +ivy, and in the rear of which is the parish burial-ground. +After leaving the Dove's Nest, and +having a pleasant ride over the hills and between +the mountains, and just as the sun was disappearing +behind them, we arrived at the gate of +Grassmere Church; and alighting and following +Miss M., we soon found ourselves standing over a +grave, marked by a single stone, and that, too, +very plain, with a name deeply cut. This announced +to us that we were standing over the +grave of William Wordsworth. He chose his +own grave, and often visited the spot before his +death. He lies in the most sequestered spot in +the whole grounds, and the simplicity and beauty +of the place was enough to make one in love +with it, to be laid so far from the bustle of the +world, and in so sweet a place. The more one +becomes acquainted with the literature of the old +<!-- Page 204 --><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204" title="204" class="pagenum"></a>world, the more he must love her poets. Among +the teachers of men, none are more worthy of +study than the poets; and, as teachers, they +should receive far more credit than is yielded to +them. No one can look back upon the lives of +Dante, Shakspere, Milton, Goethe, Cowper, and +many others that we might name, without being +reminded of the sacrifices which they made for +mankind, and which were not appreciated until +long after their deaths. We need look no farther +than our own country to find men and women +wielding the pen practically and powerfully for +the right. It is acknowledged on all hands in +this country, that England has the greatest dead +poets, and America the greatest living ones. The +poet and the true Christian have alike a hidden +life. Worship is the vital element of each. +Poetry has in it that kind of utility which good +men find in their Bible, rather than such convenience +as bad men often profess to draw from it. +It ennobles the sentiments, enlarges the affections, +kindles the imagination, and gives to us the enjoyment +of a life in the past, and in the future, as +well as in the present. Under its light and +<!-- Page 205 --><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205" title="205" class="pagenum"></a>warmth, we wake from our torpidity and coldness, +to a sense of our capabilities. This impulse once +given, a great object is gained. Schiller has +truly said, "Poetry can be to a man, what love is +to a hero. It can neither counsel him nor smite +him, nor perform any labour for him, but it can +bring him up to be a hero, can summon him to +deeds, and arm him with strength for all he ought +to be." I have often read with pleasure the +sweet poetry of our own Whitfield of Buffalo, +which has appeared from time to time in the +columns of the <i>North Star</i>. I have always felt +ashamed of the fact that he should be compelled +to wield the razor instead of the pen for a +living. Meaner poets than James M. Whitfield, +are now living by their compositions; and were he +a white man he would occupy a different position.</p> + +<p>After remaining a short time, and reading the +epitaphs of the departed, we again returned to +"The Knoll." Nothing can be more imposing than +the beauty of English park scenery, and especially +in the vicinity of the lakes. Magnificent <ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: Erratum applied, "towns" in the original text">lawns</ins> +that extend like sheets of vivid green, with here +<!-- Page 206 --><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206" title="206" class="pagenum"></a>and there a sprinkling of fine trees, heaping up +rich piles of foliage, and then the forests with the +hare, the deer, and the rabbit, bounding away to +the covert, or the pheasant suddenly bursting +upon the wing—the <ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: "artifical" in the original text">artificial</ins> stream, the brook +taught to wind in natural meanderings, or expand +into the glassy lake, with the yellow leaf sleeping +upon its bright waters, and occasionally a rustic +temple or sylvan statue grown green and dark +with age, give an air of sanctity and picturesque +beauty to English scenery that is unknown in the +United States. The very labourer with his +thatched cottage and narrow slip of ground-plot +before the door, the little flower-bed, the woodbine +trimmed against the wall, and hanging its +blossoms about the windows, and the peasant +seen trudging home at nightfall with the avails of +the toil of the day upon his back—all this tells +us of the happiness both of rich and poor in this +country. And yet there are those who would +have the world believe that the labourer of +England is in a far worse condition than the +slaves of America. Such persons know nothing +of the real condition of the working classes of this +<!-- Page 207 --><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207" title="207" class="pagenum"></a>country. At any rate, the poor here, as well as +the rich, are upon a level, as far as the laws of +the country are concerned. The more one becomes +acquainted with the English people, the +more one has to admire them. They are so +different from the people of our own country. +Hospitality, frankness, and good humour, are +always to be found in an Englishman. After a +ramble of three days about the lakes, we mounted +the coach, bidding Miss Martineau farewell, and +quitted the lake district.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="LETTER_XVII" id="LETTER_XVII"></a>LETTER XVII.</h2> + +<h3>A Day in the Crystal Palace.</h3> + + +<p class="quotdate"><span style="font-variant: small-caps;">London</span>, <i>June 27th, 1851</i>.</p> + +<p><span style="font-variant: small-caps;">Presuming</span> that you will expect from me some +account of the great World's Fair, I take my pen +to give you my own impressions, although I +am afraid that anything which I may say about +this "Lion of the day," will fall far short of a +<!-- Page 208 --><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208" title="208" class="pagenum"></a>description. On Monday last, I quitted my +lodgings at an early hour, and started for the +Crystal Palace. This day was fine, such as we +seldom experience in London, with a clear sky, +and invigorating air, whose vitality was as rousing +to the spirits as a blast from the "horn of Astolpho." +Although it was not yet 10 o'clock when +I entered Piccadilly, every omnibus was full, +inside and out, and the street was lined with one +living stream, as far as the eye could reach, all +wending their way to the "Glass-House." No +metropolis in the world presents such facilities as +London for the reception of the Great Exhibition, +now collected within its walls. Throughout its +myriads of veins, the stream of industry and toil +pulses with sleepless energy. Every one seems +to feel that this great Capital of the world, is the +fittest place wherein they might offer homage to +the dignity of toil. I had already begun to feel +fatigued by my pedestrian excursion as I passed +"Apsley House," the residence of the Duke of +Wellington, and emerged into Hyde Park.</p> + +<p>I had hoped that on getting into the Park, I +would be out of the crowd that seemed to press so +<!-- Page 209 --><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209" title="209" class="pagenum"></a>heavily in the street. But in this I was mistaken. +I here found myself surrounded by and moving +with an overwhelming mass, such as I had never +before witnessed. And, away in the distance, I +beheld a dense crowd, and above every other object, +was seen the lofty summit of the Crystal +Palace. The drive in the Park was lined with +princely-looking vehicles of every description. +The drivers in their bright red and gold uniforms, +the pages and footmen in their blue trousers and +white silk stockings, and the horses dressed up +in their neat, silver-mounted harness, made the +scene altogether one of great splendour. I was +soon at the door, paid my shilling, and entered +the building at the south end of the Transept. +For the first ten or twenty minutes I was so lost +in astonishment, and absorbed in pleasing wonder, +that I could do nothing but gaze up and down the +vista of the noble building. The Crystal Palace +resembles in some respects, the interior of the +cathedrals of this country. One long avenue from +east to west is intersected by a Transept, which +divides the building into two nearly equal parts. +This is the greatest building the world ever saw, +<!-- Page 210 --><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210" title="210" class="pagenum"></a>before which the Pyramids of Egypt, and the Colossus +of Rhodes must hide their diminished +heads. The palace was not full at any time during +the day, there being only 64,000 persons present. +Those who love to study the human countenance +in all its infinite varieties, can find ample +scope for the indulgence of their taste, by a visit +to the World's Fair. All countries are there represented—Europeans, +Asiatics, Americans and +Africans, with their numerous subdivisions. Even +the exclusive Chinese, with his hair braided, and +hanging down his back, has left the land of his +nativity, and is seen making long strides through +the Crystal Palace, in his wooden-bottomed shoes. +Of all places of curious costumes and different +fashions, none has ever yet presented such a variety +as this Exhibition. No dress is too absurd to be +worn in this place.</p> + +<p>There is a great deal of freedom in the Exhibition. +The servant who walks behind his mistress +through the Park feels that he can crowd against +her in the Exhibition. The Queen and the day +labourer, the Prince and the merchant, the peer +and the pauper, the Celt and the Saxon, the +<!-- Page 211 --><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211" title="211" class="pagenum"></a>Greek and the Frank, the Hebrew and the Russ, +all meet here upon terms of perfect equality. +This amalgamation of rank, this kindly blending +of interests, and forgetfulness of the cold formalities +of ranks and grades, cannot but be attended +with the very best results. I was pleased to see +such a goodly sprinkling of my own countrymen in +the Exhibition—I mean coloured men and +women—well-dressed, and moving about with +their fairer brethren. This, some of our pro-slavery +Americans did not seem to relish very well. +There was no help for it. As I walked through +the American part of the Crystal Palace, some of +our Virginian neighbours eyed me closely and +with jealous looks, especially as an English lady +was leaning on my arm. But their sneering +looks did not disturb me in the least. I remained +the longer in their department, and criticised +the bad appearance of their goods the more. +Indeed, the Americans, as far as appearance goes, +are behind every other country in the Exhibition. +The "Greek Slave" is the only production of +Art which the United States has sent. And it +would have been more to their credit had they +<!-- Page 212 --><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212" title="212" class="pagenum"></a>kept that at home. In so vast a place as the +Great Exhibition one scarcely knows what to +visit first, or what to look upon last. After +wandering about through the building for five +hours, I sat down in one of the galleries and +looked at the fine marble statue of Virginius, +with the knife in his hand and about to take the +life of his beloved and beautiful daughter, to save +her from the hands of Appius Claudius. The +admirer of genius will linger for hours among the +great variety of statues in the long avenue. +Large statues of Lords Eldon and Stowell, carved +out of solid marble, each weighing above twenty +tons, are among the most gigantic in the building.</p> + +<p>I was sitting with my 400 paged guide-book +before me, and looking down upon the moving +mass, when my attention was called to a small +group of gentlemen standing near the statue of +Shakspere, one of whom wore a white coat and +hat, and had flaxen hair, and trousers rather short +in the legs. The lady by my side, and who had +called my attention to the group, asked if I could +tell what country this odd-looking gentleman was +from? Not wishing to run the risk of a mistake, +<!-- Page 213 --><a name="Page_213" id="Page_213" title="213" class="pagenum"></a>I was about declining to venture an opinion, +when the reflection of the sun against a mirror, on +the opposite side, threw a brilliant light upon the +group, and especially on the face of the gentleman +in the white coat, and I immediately recognized +under the brim of the white hat, the +features of Horace Greeley, Esq., of the New +York "Tribune." His general appearance was as +much out of the English style as that of the Turk +whom I had seen but a moment before—in his +bag-like trousers, shuffling along in his slippers. +But oddness in dress, is one of the characteristics +of the Great Exhibition.</p> + +<p>Among the many things in the Crystal Palace, +there are some which receive greater attention +than others, around which may always be seen +large groups of the visitors. The first of these is +the Koh-i-noor, the "Mountain of Light." This +is the largest and most valuable diamond in the +world, said to be worth £2,000,000 sterling. It +is indeed a great source of attraction to those who +go to the Exhibition for the first time, but it is +doubtful whether it obtains such admiration afterwards. +We saw more than one spectator turn +<!-- Page 214 --><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214" title="214" class="pagenum"></a>away with the idea that after all it was only a +piece of glass. After some jamming, I got a look +at the precious jewel, and although in a brass-grated +cage, strong enough to hold a lion, I found +it to be no larger than the third of a hen's egg. +Two policemen remain by its side day and night.</p> + +<p>The finest thing in the Exhibition, is the "Veiled +Vestal," a statue of a woman carved in marble, +with a veil over her face, and so neatly done, that +it looks as if it had been thrown over after it was +finished. The Exhibition presents many things +which appeal to the eye and touch the heart, +and altogether, it is so decorated and furnished, +as to excite the dullest mind, and satisfy the most +fastidious.</p> + +<p>England has contributed the most useful and +substantial articles; France, the most beautiful; +while Russia, Turkey, and the West Indies, seem +to vie with each other in richness. China and +Persia are not behind. Austria has also contributed +a rich and beautiful stock. Sweden, Norway, +Denmark, and the smaller states of Europe, +have all tried to outdo themselves in sending +goods to the World's Fair. In Machinery, Eng<!-- Page 215 --><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215" title="215" class="pagenum"></a>land +has no competitor. In Art, France is almost +alone in the Exhibition, setting aside England.</p> + +<p>In natural productions and provisions, America +stands alone in her glory. There lies her pile of +canvassed hams; whether they were wood or real, +we could not tell. There are her barrels of salt, +beef, and pork, her beautiful white lard, her Indian-corn +and corn-meal, her rice and tobacco, +her beef tongues, dried peas, and a few bags of +cotton. The contributors from the United States +seemed to have <ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: "forgotton" in the original text">forgotten</ins> that this was an exhibition +of Art, or they most certainly would not +have sent provisions. But the United States +takes the lead in the contributions, as no other +country has sent in provisions. The finest thing +contributed by our countrymen, is a large piece +of silk with an eagle painted upon it, surrounded +by stars and stripes.</p> + +<p>After remaining more than five hours in the +great temple, I turned my back upon the richly +laden stalls and left the Crystal Palace. On my +return home I was more fortunate than in the +morning, inasmuch as I found a seat for my +friend and myself in an omnibus. And even my +<!-- Page 216 --><a name="Page_216" id="Page_216" title="216" class="pagenum"></a>ride in the close omnibus was not without +interest. For I had scarcely taken my seat, when +my friend, who was seated opposite me, with +looks and gesture informed me that we were in +the presence of some distinguished person. I +eyed the countenances of the different persons, +but in vain, to see if I could find any one who by +his appearance showed signs of superiority over +his fellow-passengers. I had given up the hope +of selecting the person of note when another +look from my friend directed my attention to a +gentlemen seated in the corner of the omnibus. +He was a tall man with strongly marked +features, hair dark and coarse. There was a +slight stoop of the shoulder—that bend which is +almost always a characteristic of studious men. +But he wore upon his countenance a forbidding +and disdainful frown, that seemed to tell one that +he thought himself better than those about him. +His dress did not indicate a man of high rank; +and had we been in America, I would have taken +him for an Ohio farmer.</p> + +<p>While I was scanning the features and general +appearance of the gentleman, the Omnibus +<!-- Page 217 --><a name="Page_217" id="Page_217" title="217" class="pagenum"></a>stopped and put down three or four of the passengers, +which gave me an opportunity of getting +a seat by the side of my friend, who, in a low +whisper, informed me that the gentleman whom I +had been eyeing so closely, was no less a person +than Thomas Carlyle. I had read his "Hero-worship," +and "Past and Present," and had +formed a high opinion of his literary abilities. +But his recent attack upon the emancipated +people of the West Indies, and his laborious +article in favour of the re-establishment of the +lash and slavery, had created in my mind a dislike +for the man, and I almost regretted that we were +in the same Omnibus. In some things, Mr. +Carlyle is right: but in many, he is entirely +wrong. As a writer, Mr. Carlyle is often monotonous +and extravagant. He does not exhibit a +new view of nature, or raise insignificant objects +into importance, but generally takes commonplace +thoughts and events, and tries to express +them in stronger and statelier language than +others. He holds no communion with his kind, +but stands alone without mate or fellow. He is +like a solitary peak, all access to which is cut off. +<!-- Page 218 --><a name="Page_218" id="Page_218" title="218" class="pagenum"></a>He exists not by sympathy but by antipathy. +Mr. Carlyle seems chiefly to try how he shall +display his own powers, and astonish mankind, by +starting new trains of speculation or by expressing +old ones so as not to be understood. He cares +little what he says, so as he can say it differently +from others. To read his works, is one thing; to +understand them, is another. If any one thinks +that I exaggerate, let him sit for an hour over +"<ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: "Sartar" in the original text">Sartor</ins> Resartus," and if he does not rise from its +pages, place his three or four dictionaries on the +shelf, and say I am right, I promise never again +to say a word against Thomas Carlyle. He +writes one page in favour of Reform, and ten +against it. He would hang all prisoners to get +rid of them, yet the inmates of the prisons and +"work-houses are better off than the poor." +His heart is with the poor; yet the blacks of the +West Indies should be taught, that if they will +not raise sugar and cotton by their own free will, +"Quashy should have the whip applied to him." +He frowns upon the Reformatory speakers upon +the boards of Exeter Hall, yet he is the prince of +reformers. He hates heroes and assassins, yet +<!-- Page 219 --><a name="Page_219" id="Page_219" title="219" class="pagenum"></a>Cromwell was an angel, and Charlotte Corday a +saint. He scorns everything, and seems to be +tired of what he is by nature, and tries to be what +he is not. But you will ask, what has Thomas +Carlyle to do with a visit to the Crystal Palace? +My only reply is, "Nothing," and if my remarks +upon him have taken up the space that should +have been devoted to the Exhibition, and what I +have written not prove too burdensome to read, +my next will be "a week in the Crystal Palace."</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="LETTER_XVIII" id="LETTER_XVIII"></a>LETTER XVIII.</h2> + +<h3>The London Peace Congress—Meeting of Fugitive +Slaves—Temperance Demonstration—The Great +Exhibition: last visit.</h3> + + +<p class="quotdate"><span style="font-variant: small-caps;">London</span>, <i>August 20</i>.</p> + +<p><span style="font-variant: small-caps;">The</span> past six weeks have been of a stirring nature +in this great metropolis. It commenced with the +Peace Congress, the proceedings of which have +long since reached you. And although that +<!-- Page 220 --><a name="Page_220" id="Page_220" title="220" class="pagenum"></a>event has passed off, it may not be out of place +here to venture a remark or two upon its deliberations.</p> + +<p>A meeting upon the subject of Peace, with the +support of the monied and influential men who +rally around the Peace standard, could scarcely +have been held in Exeter Hall without creating +some sensation. From all parts of the world +flocked delegates to this practical protest against +war. And among those who took part in +the proceedings, were many men whose names +alone would, even on ordinary occasions, have +filled the great hall. The speakers were +chosen from among the representatives of the +various countries, without regard to dialect or +complexion; and the only fault which seemed to +be found with the Committee's arrangement was, +that in their desire to get foreigners and Londoners, +they forgot the country delegates, so that +none of the large provincial towns were at +all represented in the Congress, so far as +speaking was concerned. Manchester, Leeds, +Newcastle, and all the important towns in +Scotland and Ireland, were silenced in the +<!-- Page 221 --><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221" title="221" class="pagenum"></a>great meeting. I need not say that this was +an oversight of the Committee, and one, too, +that has done some injury. Such men as the +able Chairman of the late Anti-Corn Law +League, cannot be forgotten in such a meeting, +without giving offence to those who sent him, +especially when the Committee brought forward, +day after day, the same speakers, chosen from +amongst the metropolitan delegation. However, +the meeting was a glorious one, and will long be +remembered with delight as a step onward in the +cause of Peace. Burritt's Brotherhood Bazaar +followed close upon the heels of the Peace Congress; +and this had scarcely closed, when that +ever-memorable meeting of the American Fugitive +Slaves took place in the Hall of Commerce.</p> + +<p>The Temperance people made the next reformatory +move. This meeting took place in Exeter +Hall, and was made up of delegates from the various +towns in the kingdom. They had come +from the North, East, West, and South. There +was the quick-spoken son of the Emerald Isle, +with his pledge suspended from his neck; there, +too, the Scot, speaking his broad dialect; also the +<!-- Page 222 --><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222" title="222" class="pagenum"></a>representatives from the provincial towns of England +and Wales, who seemed to speak anything +but good English.</p> + +<p>The day after the meeting had closed in Exeter +Hall, the country societies, together with those of +the metropolis, assembled in Hyde Park, and then +walked to the Crystal Palace. Their number +while going to the Exhibition, was variously estimated +at from 15,000 to 20,000, and was said to +have been the largest gathering of Teetotalers ever +assembled in London. They consisted chiefly of +the working classes, their wives and children—clean, +well-dressed and apparently happy: their +looks indicating in every way those orderly habits +which, beyond question, distinguish the devotees +of that cause above the common labourers of this +country. On arriving at the Exhibition, they +soon distributed themselves among the departments, +to revel in its various wonders, eating +their own lunch, and drinking from the Crystal +Fountain.</p> + +<p>And now I am at the world's wonder, I will +remain here until I finish this sheet. I have +spent fifteen days in the Exhibition, and have con<!-- Page 223 --><a name="Page_223" id="Page_223" title="223" class="pagenum"></a>versed +with those who have spent double that +number amongst its beauties, and the general +opinion appears to be, that six months would not +be too long to remain within its walls to enable +one to examine its laden stalls. Many persons +make the Crystal Palace their home, with the exception +of night. I have seen them come in the +morning, visit the dressing-room, then go to the +refreshment room, and sit down to breakfast as +if they had been at their hotel. Dinner and tea +would be taken in turn.</p> + +<p>The Crystal Fountain is the great place of +meeting in the Exhibition. There you may see +husbands looking for lost wives, wives for stolen +husbands, mothers for their lost children, and +towns-people for their country friends; and unless +you have an appointment at a certain place +at an hour, you might as well prowl through the +streets of London to find a friend, as in the Great +Exhibition. There is great beauty in the "Glass +House." Here, in the transept, with the glorious +sunlight coming through that wonderful glass +roof, may the taste be cultivated and improved, the +mind edified, and the feelings chastened. Here, +<!-- Page 224 --><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224" title="224" class="pagenum"></a>surrounded by noble creations in marble and +bronze, and in the midst of an admiring throng, +one may gaze at statuary which might fitly decorate +the house of the proudest prince in Christendom.</p> + +<p>He who takes his station in the gallery, at +either end, and looks upon that wondrous nave, +or who surveys the matchless panorama around +him from the intersection of the nave and transept, +may be said, without presumption or exaggeration, +to see all the kingdoms of this world +and the glory of them. He sees not only a +greater collection of fine articles, but also a +greater as well as more various assemblage of the +human race, than ever before was gathered under +one roof.</p> + +<p>One of the beauties of this great international +gathering is, that it is not confined to rank or +grade. The million toilers from mine, and factory, +and workshop, and loom, and office, and +field, share with their more wealthy neighbours +the feast of reason and imagination spread out in +the Crystal Palace.</p> + +<p>It is strange indeed to see so many nations +<!-- Page 225 --><a name="Page_225" id="Page_225" title="225" class="pagenum"></a>assembled and represented on one spot of British +ground. In short, it is one great theatre, with +thousands of performers, each playing his own +part. England is there, with her mighty engines +toiling and whirring, indefatigable in her enterprises +to shorten labour. India spreads her +glitter and paint. France, refined and fastidious, +is there every day, giving the last touch to her +picturesque group; and the other countries, each +in their turn, doing what they can to show off. +The distant hum of thousands of good humoured +people, with occasionally a national anthem +from some gigantic organ, together with the +noise of the machinery, seems to send life into +every part of the Crystal Palace.</p> + +<p>When you get tired of walking, you can sit +down and write your impressions, and there is +the "post" to receive your letter, or if it be Friday +or Saturday, you may, if you choose, rest yourself +by hearing a lecture from Professor Anstead; and +then before leaving take your last look, and see +something that you have not before seen. Every +thing which is old in cities, new in colonial life, +splendid in courts, useful in industry, beautiful +<!-- Page 226 --><a name="Page_226" id="Page_226" title="226" class="pagenum"></a>in nature, or ingenious in invention, is there represented. +In one place we have the Bible translated +into one hundred and fifty languages; in +another, we have saints and archbishops painted +on glass; in another, old palaces and the +altars of a John Knox, a Baxter, or some +other divines of olden time. In the old Temple +of Delphi, we read that every state of the +civilized world had its separate treasury, where +Herodotus, born two thousand years before +his time, saw and observed all kinds of prodigies +in gold and silver, brass and iron, and +even in linen. The nations all met there on one +common ground, and the peace of the earth was +not a little promoted by their common interest +in the sanctity and splendour of that shrine. +As long as the Exhibition lasts, and its memory +endures, we hope and trust that it may shed the +same influence. With this hasty scrap, I take +leave of the Great Exhibition.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<div><!-- Page 227 --><a name="Page_227" id="Page_227" title="227" class="pagenum"></a></div> +<h2><a name="LETTER_XIX" id="LETTER_XIX"></a>LETTER XIX.</h2> + +<h3>Oxford—Martyrs' Monument—Cost of the Burning +of the Martyrs—The Colleges—Dr. +Pusey—Energy, the Secret of Success.</h3> + + +<p class="quotdate"><span style="font-variant: small-caps;">Oxford</span>, <i>September 10th, 1851</i>.</p> + +<p><span style="font-variant: small-caps;">I have</span> just finished a short visit to the far famed +city of Oxford, which has not unaptly been styled +the City of Palaces. Aside from this being one of +the principal seats of learning in the world, it is +distinguished alike for its religious and political +changes in times past. At one time it was the +seat of Popery; at another, the uncompromising +enemy of Rome. Here the tyrant, Richard the +Third, held his court, and when James the First, +and his son Charles the First, found their capital +too hot to hold them, they removed to their loyal +city of Oxford. The writings of the great +Republicans were here committed to the flames. +At one time Popery sent Protestants to the stake +and faggot; at another, a Papist King found no +favour with the people. A noble monument now +<!-- Page 228 --><a name="Page_228" id="Page_228" title="228" class="pagenum"></a>stands where Cranmer, Ridley, and Latimer, proclaimed +their sentiments and faith, and sealed them +with their blood. And now we read upon the +Town Treasurer's book—for three loads of wood, +one load of faggots, one post, two chains and +staples, to burn Ridley and Latimer, £1 5s. 1d. +Such is the information one gets by looking over +the records of books written three centuries ago.</p> + +<p>It was a beautiful day on which I arrived at +Oxford, and instead of remaining in my hotel, I +sallied forth to take a survey of the beauties of +the city. I strolled into Christ Church Meadows, +and there spent the evening in viewing the +numerous halls of learning which surround that +splendid promenade. And fine old buildings they +are: centuries have rolled over many of them, +hallowing the old walls, and making them grey +with age. They have been for ages the chosen +homes of piety and philosophy. Heroes and +scholars have gone forth from their studies here, +into the great field of the world, to seek their +fortunes, and to conquer and be conquered. As +I surveyed the exterior of the different Colleges, +I could here and there see the reflection of the +<!-- Page 229 --><a name="Page_229" id="Page_229" title="229" class="pagenum"></a>light from the window of some student, who was +busy at his studies, or throwing away his time +over some trashy novel, too many of which find +their way into the trunks or carpet bags of the +young men on setting out for College. As I +looked upon the walls of these buildings, I thought +as the rough stone is taken from the quarry to +the finisher, there to be made into an ornament, +so was the young mind brought here to be cultivated +and developed. Many a poor unobtrusive +young man, with the appearance of little or no +ability, is here moulded into a hero, a scholar, a +tyrant, or a friend of humanity. I never look +upon these monuments of education, without a +feeling of regret, that so few of our own race can +find a place within their walls. And this being +the fact, I see more and more the need of our +people being encouraged to turn their attention +more seriously to self-education, and thus to take +a respectable position before the world, by virtue +of their own cultivated minds and moral standing.</p> + +<p>Education, though obtained by a little at a +time, and that, too, over the midnight lamp, will +<!-- Page 230 --><a name="Page_230" id="Page_230" title="230" class="pagenum"></a>place its owner in a position to be respected by +all, even though he be black. I know that the +obstacles which the laws of the land, and of society, +place between the coloured man and +education in the United States, are very great, yet +if <i>one</i> can break through these barriers, more +can; and if our people would only place the +right appreciation upon education, they would +find these obstacles are easier to be overcome than +at first sight appears. A young man once asked +Carlyle, what was the secret of success. His +reply was, "Energy; whatever you undertake, +do it with all your might." Had it not been for +the possession of energy, I might now have been +working as a servant for some brainless fellow +who might be able to command my labour with +his money, or I might have been yet toiling in +chains and slavery. But thanks to energy, not +only for my being to-day in a land of freedom, +but also for my dear girls being in one of the +best seminaries in France, instead of being in an +American school, where the finger of scorn +would be pointed at them by those whose superiority +rests entirely upon their having a whiter +<!-- Page 231 --><a name="Page_231" id="Page_231" title="231" class="pagenum"></a>skin. But I am straying too far from the purpose +of this letter.</p> + +<p>Oxford is indeed one of the finest located +places in the kingdom, and every inch of ground +about it seems hallowed by interesting associations. +The University, founded by the good +King Alfred, still throws its shadow upon the +side-walk; and the lapse of ten centuries seems to +have made but little impression upon it. Other +seats of learning may be entitled to our admiration, +but Oxford claims our veneration. Although +the lateness of the night compelled me, yet I +felt an unwillingness to tear myself from the +scene of such surpassing interest. Few places in +any country as noted as Oxford is, but what has +some distinguished person residing within its +precincts. And knowing that the City of Palaces +was not an exception to this rule, I resolved to +see some of its lions. Here, of course, is the +head quarters of the Bishop of Oxford, a son of +the late William Wilberforce, Africa's noble +champion. I should have been glad to have seen +this distinguished pillar of the Church, but I soon +learned that the Bishop's residence was out of +<!-- Page 232 --><a name="Page_232" id="Page_232" title="232" class="pagenum"></a>town, and that he seldom visited the city except +on business. I then determined to see one who, +although a lesser dignitary in the church, is +nevertheless, scarcely less known than the Bishop +of Oxford. This was the Rev. Dr. Pusey, a divine, +whose name is known wherever the religion of +Jesus is known and taught, and the acknowledged +head of the Puseyites. On the second morning +of my visit, I proceeded to Christ Church Chapel, +where the rev. gentleman officiates. Fortunately +I had an opportunity of seeing the Dr., and +following close in his footsteps to the church. +His personal appearance is anything but that of +one who is the leader of a growing and powerful +party in the church. He is rather under the +middle size, and is round shouldered, or rather +stoops. His profile is more striking than his +front face, the nose being very large and prominent. +As a matter of course, I expected to see +a large nose, for all great men have them. He +has a thoughtful, and somewhat sullen brow, a +firm and somewhat pensive mouth, a cheek pale, +thin, and deeply furrowed. A monk fresh from +the cloisters of <ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: "Tinterran" in the original text">Tintern</ins> Abbey, in its proudest +<!-- Page 233 --><a name="Page_233" id="Page_233" title="233" class="pagenum"></a>days, could scarcely have made a more ascetic +and solemn appearance than did Dr. Pusey on +this occasion. He is not apparently above forty-five, +or at most fifty years of age, and his whole +aspect renders him an admirable study for an +artist. Dr. Pusey's style of preaching is cold and +tame, and one looking at him would scarcely +believe that such an apparently uninteresting man +could cause such an eruption in the Church as he +has. I was glad to find that a coloured young +man was among the students at Oxford.</p> + +<p>A few months since, I paid a visit to our +countryman, Alexander Crummel, who is still +pursuing his studies at Cambridge—a place, +though much inferior to Oxford as far as appearance +is concerned, is yet said to be greatly its superior as +a place of learning. In an hour's walk through the +Strand, Regent, or Piccadilly Streets in London, +one may meet half a dozen coloured young men, +who are inmates of the various Colleges in the +metropolis. These are all signs of progress in the +cause of the sons of Africa. Then let our people +take courage, and with that courage let them +apply themselves to learning. A determination +<!-- Page 234 --><a name="Page_234" id="Page_234" title="234" class="pagenum"></a>to excel is the sure road to greatness, and that +is as open to the black man as the white. It was +that which has accomplished the <ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: "mightest" in the original text">mightiest</ins> and +noblest triumphs in the intellectual and physical +world. It was that which has made such rapid +strides towards civilization, and broken the chains +of ignorance and superstition, which have so long +fettered the human intellect. It was determination +which raised so many worthy individuals +from the humble walks of society, and from +poverty, and placed them in positions of trust and +renown. It is no slight barrier that can +effectually oppose the determination of the will—success +must ultimately crown its efforts. "The +world shall hear of me," was the exclamation of +one whose name has become as familiar as household +words. A Toussaint, once laboured in the +sugar field with his spelling-book in his pocket, +amid the combined efforts of a nation to keep him +in ignorance. His name is now recorded among +the list of statesmen of the past. A Soulouque +was once a slave, and knew not how to read. He +now sits upon the throne of an Empire.</p> + +<p>In our own country, there are men who once +<!-- Page 235 --><a name="Page_235" id="Page_235" title="235" class="pagenum"></a>held the plough, and that too without any +compensation, who are now presiding at the +editor's table. It was determination that brought +out the genius of a Franklin, and a Fulton, and that +has distinguished many of the American Statesmen, +who but for their energy and determination +would never have had a name beyond the precincts +of their own homes.</p> + +<p>It is not always those who have the best advantages, +or the greatest talents, that eventually +succeed in their undertakings; but it is those who +strive with untiring diligence to remove all obstacles +to success, and who, with unconquerable +resolution, labour on until the rich reward of +perseverance is within their grasp. Then again +let me say to our young men—Take courage; +"There is a good time coming." The darkness +of the night appears greatest just before the dawn +of day.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<div><!-- Page 236 --><a name="Page_236" id="Page_236" title="236" class="pagenum"></a></div> +<h2><a name="LETTER_XX" id="LETTER_XX"></a>LETTER XX.</h2> + +<h3>Fugitive Slaves in England.</h3> + + +<p><span style="font-variant: small-caps;">The</span> love of freedom is one of those natural +impulses of the human breast which cannot be +extinguished. Even the brute animals of the +creation feel and show sorrow and affection when +deprived of their liberty. Therefore is a distinguished +writer justified in saying, "Man is free, +even were he born in chains." The Americans +boast, and justly, too, that Washington was the +hero and model patriot of the American Revolution—the +man whose fame, unequalled in his own +day and country, will descend to the end of time, +the pride and honour of humanity. The +American speaks with pride of the battles of +Lexington and Bunker Hill; and when standing +in Faneuil Hall, he points to the portraits of +Otis, Adams, Hancock, Quincy, Warren, and +Franklin, and tells you that their names will go +down to posterity among the world's most devoted +and patriotic friends of human liberty.</p> + +<p><!-- Page 237 --><a name="Page_237" id="Page_237" title="237" class="pagenum"></a>It was on the first of August, 1851, that a number +of men, fugitives from that boasted land of freedom, +assembled at the Hall of Commerce in the City of +London, for the purpose of laying their wrongs +before the British nation, and at the same time, +to give thanks to the God of Freedom for the +liberation of their West India brethren, on the +first of August, 1834. Little notice had been +given of the intended meeting, yet it seemed to +be known in all parts of the city. At the hour +of half-past seven, for which the meeting had been +called, the spacious hall was well filled, and the +fugitives, followed by some of the most noted +English Abolitionists, entered the hall, amid the +most deafening applause, and took their seats on +the platform. The appearance of the great hall +at this juncture was most splendid. Besides the +committee of fugitives, on the platform there were +a number of the oldest and most devoted of the +Slave's friends. On the left of the chair sat Geo. +Thompson, Esq., M.P.; near him was the Rev. +Jabez Burns, D.D.; and by his side the Rev. +John Stevenson, M.A., Wm. Farmer, Esq., R. +Smith, Esq.; while on the other side were the +<!-- Page 238 --><a name="Page_238" id="Page_238" title="238" class="pagenum"></a>Rev. Edward Mathews, John Cunliff, Esq., +Andrew Paton, Esq., J.P. Edwards, Esq., and a +number of coloured gentlemen from the West +Indies. The body of the hall was not without its +distinguished guests. The Chapmans and +Westons of Boston, U.S., were there. The +Estlins and Tribes had come all the way from +Bristol to attend the great meeting. The Patons +of Glasgow had delayed their departure, so as to +be present. The Massies had come in from +Upper Clapton. Not far from the platform sat +Sir Francis Knowles, Bart., still farther back was +Samuel Bowly, Esq., while near the door were to +be seen the greatest critic of the age, and +England's best living poet. Macaulay had laid +aside the pen, entered the hall, and was standing +near the central door, while not far from the +historian stood the newly-appointed Poet Laureat. +The author of "In Memoriam" had been swept +in by the crowd, and was standing with his arms +folded, and beholding for the first time (and probably +the last) so large a number of coloured +men in one room. In different parts of the hall +were men and women from nearly all parts of +<!-- Page 239 --><a name="Page_239" id="Page_239" title="239" class="pagenum"></a>the kingdom, besides a large number who, drawn +to London by the Exhibition, had come in to see +and hear these oppressed people plead their own +cause.</p> + +<p>The writer of this sketch was chosen Chairman +of the meeting, and commenced its proceedings +by delivering the following address, which we cut +from the columns of the <i>Morning Advertiser</i>:—</p> + + +<p>"The Chairman, in opening the proceedings, +remarked that, although the metropolis had of +late been inundated with meetings of various +character, having reference to almost every +variety of subject, yet that the subject they were +called upon that evening to discuss differed from +them all. Many of those by whom he was +surrounded, like himself, had been victims to the +inhuman institution of Slavery, and were in consequence +exiled from the land of their birth. +They were fugitives from their native land, but +not fugitives from justice, and they had not fled +from a monarchical, but from a so-called republican +government. They came from amongst a +people who declared, as part of their creed, that +<!-- Page 240 --><a name="Page_240" id="Page_240" title="240" class="pagenum"></a>all men were born free, but who, while they did +so, made slaves of every sixth man, woman, and +child in the country (hear, hear). He must not, +however, forget that one of the purposes for which +they were met that night was to commemorate the +emancipation of their brothers and sisters in the +isles of the sea. That act of the British Parliament, +and he might add in this case with peculiar +emphasis, of the British nation, passed on the 12th +day of August, 1833, to take effect on the first +day of August, 1834, and which enfranchised +800,000 West Indian slaves, was an event sublime +in its nature, comprehensive and mighty in its +immediate influences and remote consequences, +precious beyond expression to the cause of freedom, +and encouraging beyond the measure of any +government on earth to the hearts of all +enlightened and just men. This act was the +commencement of a long course of philanthropic +and Christian efforts on the part of some of the +best men that the world ever produced. It was not +his intention to go into a discussion or a calculation +of the rise and fall of property, or whether +sugar was worth more or less by the act of +<!-- Page 241 --><a name="Page_241" id="Page_241" title="241" class="pagenum"></a>emancipation. But the abolition of Slavery +in the West Indies, was a blow struck in the +right direction, at that most inhuman of all +traffics, the slave trade—a trade which would +never cease so long as slavery existed, for where +there was a market there would be merchandise; +where there was demand there would be a supply; +where there were carcases there would be vultures; +and they might as well attempt to turn the +water, and make it run up the Niagara river, as +to change this law. It was often said by the +Americans that England was responsible for the +existence of slavery there, because it was introduced +into that country while the colonies were +under the British Crown. If that were the case, +they must come to the conclusion that, as England +abolished Slavery in the West Indies, she +would have done the same for the American +States if she had had the power to do +it; and if that was so, they might safely +say that the separation of the United States +from the mother country was (to say the least) +a great misfortune to one-sixth of the population +of that land. England had set a noble +<!-- Page 242 --><a name="Page_242" id="Page_242" title="242" class="pagenum"></a>example to America, and he would to heaven his +countrymen would follow the example. The +Americans boasted of their superior knowledge, +but they needed not to boast of their superior +guilt, for that was set upon a hill top, and that +too, so high, that it required not the lantern of +Diogenes to find it out. Every breeze from the +western world brought upon its wings the groans +and cries of the victims of this guilt. Nearly all +countries had fixed the seal of disapprobation on +slavery, and when, at some future age, this stain +on the page of history shall be pointed at, +posterity will blush at the discrepancy between +American profession and American practice. +What was to be thought of a people boasting of +their liberty, their humanity, their Christianity, +their love of justice, and at the same time keeping +in slavery nearly four millions of God's children, +and shutting out from them the light of the +Gospel, by denying the Bible to the slave! +(Hear, hear.) No education, no marriage, everything +done to keep the mind of the slave in +darkness. There was a wish on the part of the +people of the northern States to shield themselves +<!-- Page 243 --><a name="Page_243" id="Page_243" title="243" class="pagenum"></a>from the charge of slave-holding, but as they +shared in the guilt, he was not satisfied with +letting them off without their share in the odium. +And now a word about the Fugitive Slave Bill. +That measure was in every respect an <ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: "unconsitutional" in the original text">unconstitutional</ins> +measure. It set aside the right formerly +enjoyed by the fugitive of trial by jury—it +afforded to him no protection, no opportunity of +proving his right to be free, and it placed every +free coloured person at the mercy of any unprincipled +individual who might wish to lay claim +to him. (Hear.) That law is opposed to the +principles of Christianity—foreign alike to the +laws of God and man, it had converted the whole +population of the free States into a band of slave-catchers, +and every rood of territory is but so +much hunting ground, over which they might +chase the fugitive. But while they were speaking +of slavery in the United States, they must not +omit to mention that there was a strong feeling +in that land, not only against the Fugitive Slave +Law, but also against the existence of slavery in +any form. There was a band of fearless men and +women in the city of Boston, whose labours for +<!-- Page 244 --><a name="Page_244" id="Page_244" title="244" class="pagenum"></a>the slave had resulted in good beyond calculation. +This noble and heroic class had created an agitation +in the whole country, until their principles +have taken root in almost every association in +the land, and which, with God's blessing, will, in +due time, cause the Americans to put into +practice what they have so long <ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: "professsd" in the original text">professed</ins>. (Hear, +hear.) He wished it to be continually held up +before the country, that the northern States are +as deeply implicated in the guilt of slavery as the +South. The north had a population of 13,553,328 +freemen; the south had a population of only +6,393,756 freemen; the north has 152 representatives +in the house, the south only 81; and it would +be seen by this, that the balance of power was with +the free States. Looking, therefore, at the +question in all its aspects, he was sure that +there was no one in this country but who +would find out, that the slavery of the United +States of America was a system the most +abandoned and the most tyrannical. (Hear, +hear.)"</p> + +<p>At the close of this address, the Rev. Edward +Matthews, last from Bristol, but who had +<!-- Page 245 --><a name="Page_245" id="Page_245" title="245" class="pagenum"></a>recently returned from the United States, where +he had been maltreated on account of his fidelity +to the cause of freedom, was introduced, and +made a most interesting speech. The next +speaker was George Thompson, Esq., M.P.; +and we need only say that his eloquence, which +has seldom or ever been equalled, and never surpassed, +exceeded, on this occasion, the most +sanguine expectations of his friends. All +who sat under the thundering anathemas which he +hurled against slavery, seemed instructed, delighted, +and animated. No one could scarcely +have remained unmoved by the pensive sympathies +that pervaded the entire assembly. +There were many in the meeting who had never +seen a fugitive slave before, and when any of the +speakers would refer to those on the platform, +the whole audience seemed moved to tears. No +meeting of the kind held in London for years +created a greater sensation than this gathering of +refugees from the "Land of the free, and the +home of the brave." The following appeal, which +I had <ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: "writen" in the original text">written</ins> for the occasion, was unanimously +adopted at the close of the meeting, and thus +<!-- Page 246 --><a name="Page_246" id="Page_246" title="246" class="pagenum"></a>ended the great Anti-Slavery demonstration of +1851.</p> + +<div class="ctr"> +<h4>AN APPEAL TO THE PEOPLE OF GREAT BRITAIN +AND THE WORLD.</h4> +</div> +<p><span style="font-variant: small-caps;">We</span> consider it just, both to the people of the +United States and to ourselves, in making an +appeal to the inhabitants of other countries, +against the laws which have exiled us from our +native land, to state the ground upon which we +make our appeal, and the causes which impel us +to do so. There are in the United States of +America, at the present time, between three and +four millions of persons, who are held in a state +of slavery which has no parallel in any other part +of the world; and whose numbers have, within the +last fifty years, increased to a fearful extent. These +people are not only deprived of the rights to +which the laws of Nature and Nature's God +entitle them, but every avenue to knowledge is +closed against them. The laws do not recognise +the family relation of a slave, and extend to him +protection in the enjoyment of domestic endearments. +Brothers and sisters, parents and children, +<!-- Page 247 --><a name="Page_247" id="Page_247" title="247" class="pagenum"></a>husbands and wives, are torn asunder, and +permitted to see each other no more. The +shrieks and agonies of the slave are heard in the +markets at the seat of government, and within +hearing of the American Congress, as well as on +the cotton, sugar and rice plantations of the far +South.</p> + +<p>The history of the negroes in America is but a +history of repeated injuries and acts of oppression +committed upon them by the whites. It is not +for ourselves that we make this appeal, but +for those whom we have left behind.</p> + +<p>In their Declaration of Independence, the +Americans declare that "all men are created +equal; that they are endowed by their Creator +with certain inalienable rights; that among these +are life, liberty, and the pursuit of happiness." +Yet one-sixth of the inhabitants of the great +Republic are slaves. Thus they give the lie to +their own professions. No one forfeits his or her +character or standing in society by being engaged +in holding, buying or selling a slave; the details +of which, in all their horror, can scarcely be told.</p> + +<p>Although the holding of slaves is confined to +<!-- Page 248 --><a name="Page_248" id="Page_248" title="248" class="pagenum"></a>fifteen of the thirty-one States, yet we hold that +the non-slave-holding States are equally guilty +with the slave-holding. If any proof is needed on +this point, it will be found in the passage of the +inhuman Fugitive Slave Law, by Congress; a law +which could never have been enacted without the +votes of a portion of the representatives from the +free States, and which is now being enforced, +in many of the States, with the utmost +alacrity. It was the passing of this law that +exiled us from our native land, and it has driven +thousands of our brothers and sisters from the free +States, and compelled them to seek a refuge in +the British possessions in North America. The +Fugitive Slave Law has converted the entire +country, North and South, into one vast hunting-ground. +We would respectfully ask you to +expostulate with the Americans, and let them +know that you regard their treatment of the +coloured people of that country as a violation of +every principle of human brotherhood, of natural +right, of justice, of humanity, of Christianity, of +love to God and love to man.</p> + +<p>It is needless that we should remind you that +<!-- Page 249 --><a name="Page_249" id="Page_249" title="249" class="pagenum"></a>the religious sects of America, with but few exceptions, +are connected with the sin of slavery—the +churches North as well as South. We would +have you tell the professed Christians of that land, +that if they would be respected by you, they must +separate themselves from the unholy alliance with +men who are daily committing deeds which, if +done in England, would cause the perpetrator to +be sent to a felon's doom; that they must refuse +the right hand of Christian fellowship, whether +individually or collectively, to those implicated, in +any way, in the guilt of slavery.</p> + +<p>We do not ask for a forcible interference on +your part, but only that you will use all lawful +and peaceful means to restore to this much +injured race their God-given rights. The moral +and religious sentiment of mankind must be +arrayed against slave-holding, to make it infamous, +ere we can hope to see it abolished. We would +ask you to set them the example, by excluding +from your pulpits, and from religious communion, +the slave-holding and pro-slavery ministers who +may happen to visit this country. We would +even go further, and ask you to shut your doors +<!-- Page 250 --><a name="Page_250" id="Page_250" title="250" class="pagenum"></a>against either ministers or laymen, who are at all +guilty of upholding and sustaining this monster +sin. By the cries of the slave, which come from +the fields and swamps of the far South, we ask +you to do this! By that spirit of liberty and +equality of which you all admire, we would ask +you to do this. And by that still nobler, higher, +and holier spirit of our beloved Saviour, we would +ask you to stamp upon the head of the slaveholder, +with a brand deeper than that which +marks the victim of his wrongs, the infamy of +theft, adultery, man-stealing, piracy, and murder, +and, by the force of public opinion, compel him to +"unloose the heavy burden, and let the oppressed +go free."</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="LETTER_XXI" id="LETTER_XXI"></a>LETTER XXI.</h2> + +<h3>A Chapter on American Slavery.</h3> + + +<p><span style="font-variant: small-caps;">The</span> word Englishman is but another name for +an American, and the word American is but an<!-- Page 251 --><a name="Page_251" id="Page_251" title="251" class="pagenum"></a>other +name for an Englishman—England is the +father, America the son. They have a common +origin and identity of language; they hold the +same religious and political opinions; they study +the same histories, and have the same literature. +Steam and mechanical ingenuity have brought +the two countries within nine days sailing of each +other. The Englishman on landing at New-York +finds his new neighbours speaking the same language +which he last heard on leaving Liverpool, +and he sees the American in the same dress that +he had been accustomed to look upon at home, +and soon forgets that he is three thousand miles +from his native land, and in another country. +The American on landing at Liverpool, and +taking a walk through the great commercial +city, finding no difficulty in understanding the +people, supposes himself still in New-York; and +if there seems any doubt in his own mind, +growing out of the fact that the people have +a more healthy look, seem more polite, and +that the buildings have a more substantial +appearance than those he had formerly looked +upon, he has only to imagine, as did Rip Van +<!-- Page 252 --><a name="Page_252" id="Page_252" title="252" class="pagenum"></a>Winkle, that he has been asleep these hundred +years.</p> + +<p>If the Englishman who has seen a Thompson +silenced in Boston, or a Macready mobbed in New-York, +upon the ground that they were foreigners, +should sit in Exeter Hall and hear an American +orator until he was hoarse, and wonder why the +American is better treated in England than the +Englishman in America, he has only to attribute it +to John Bull's superior knowledge of good manners, +and his being a more law-abiding man than brother +Jonathan. England and America has each its +reforms and its reformers, and they have more or +less sympathy with each other. It has been said +that one generation commences a reform in +England, and that another generation finishes it. +I would that so much could be said with regard to +the great object of reform in America—the system +of slavery!</p> + +<p>No evil was ever more deeply rooted in a +country than is slavery in the United States. +Spread over the largest and most fertile States in +the Union, with decidedly the best climate, +and interwoven, as it is, with the religious, +<!-- Page 253 --><a name="Page_253" id="Page_253" title="253" class="pagenum"></a>political, commercial, and social institutions of +the country, it is scarcely possible to estimate its +influence. This is the evil which claims the attention +of American Reformers, over and above +every other evil in the land, and thanks to a kind +providence, the American slave is not without +his advocates. The greatest enemy to the +Anti-Slavery Society, and the most inveterate +opposer of the men whose names stand at the +head of the list as officers and agents of that +association, will, we think, assign to William +Lloyd Garrison, the first place in the ranks of the +American Abolitionists. The first to proclaim +the doctrine of immediate emancipation to +the slaves of America, and on that account an +object of hatred to the slave-holding interest of +the country, and living for years with his life +in danger, he is justly regarded by all, as the +leader of the Anti-Slavery movement in the New +World. Mr. Garrison is at the present time but +little more than forty-five years of age, and of the +middle size. He has a high and prominent forehead, +well developed, with no hair on the top of +the head, having lost it in early life; with a pierc<!-- Page 254 --><a name="Page_254" id="Page_254" title="254" class="pagenum"></a>ing +eye, a pleasant, yet anxious countenance, +and of a most loveable disposition; tender, +and blameless in his family affections, devoted +to his friends; simple and studious, +upright, guileless, distinguished, and worthy, +like the distinguished men of antiquity, to be +immortalized by another Plutarch. How many +services never to be forgotten, has he not rendered +to the cause of the slave, and the welfare of +mankind! As a speaker, he is forcible, clear, and +logical, yet he will not rank with the many who +are less known. As a writer, he is regarded as +one of the finest in the United States, and +certainly the most prominent in the Anti-Slavery +cause. Had Mr. Garrison wished to serve +himself, he might, with his great talents, long +since, have been at the head of either of the great +political parties. Few men can withstand the +allurements of office, and the prize-money that +accompanies them. Many of those who were with +him fifteen years ago, have been swept down +with the current of popular favour, either +in Church or State. He has seen a Cox +on the one hand, and a Stanton on the +<!-- Page 255 --><a name="Page_255" id="Page_255" title="255" class="pagenum"></a>other, swept away like so much floating wood +before the tide. When the sturdiest characters +gave way, when the finest geniuses passed one after +another under the yoke of slavery, Garrison stood +firm to his convictions, like a rock that stands +stirless amid the conflicting agitation of the +waves. He is not only the friend and advocate +of freedom with his pen and his tongue, but to +the oppressed of every clime he opens his purse, +his house, and his heart: yet he is not a man of +money. The fugitive slave, fresh from the whips +and chains, who is turned off by the politician, +and experiences the cold shoulder of the +divine, finds a bed and a breakfast under the hospitable +roof of Mr. Lloyd Garrison.</p> + +<p>The party of which he is the acknowledged +head, is one of no inconsiderable influence in the +United States. No man has more bitter enemies +or stauncher friends than he. There are those +among his friends who would stake their all upon +his veracity and integrity; and we are sure that +the coloured people throughout America, bond +and free, in whose cause he has so long laboured, +will, with one accord, assign the highest niche in +<!-- Page 256 --><a name="Page_256" id="Page_256" title="256" class="pagenum"></a>their affection to the champion of universal +emancipation. Every cause has its writers and +its orators. We have drawn a hasty and imperfect +sketch of the greatest writer in the Anti-Slavery +field: we shall now call attention to the +most distinguished public speaker. The name of +Wendell Phillips is but another name for eloquence. +Born in the highest possible position in +America, Mr. Phillips has all the advantages that +birth can give to one in that country. Educated +at the first University, graduating with all the +honours which the College could bestow on him, +and studying the law and becoming a member of +the bar, he has all the accomplishments that +these advantages can give to a man of a great +mind. Nature has treated him as a favourite. +His stature is not tall, but handsome; his expressive +countenance paints and reflects every emotion +of his soul. His gestures are wonderfully +graceful, like his delivery. There is a +fascination in the soft gaze of his eyes, +which none can but admire. Being a great +reader, and endowed by nature with a good +memory, he supplies himself with the most com<!-- Page 257 --><a name="Page_257" id="Page_257" title="257" class="pagenum"></a>plicated +dates and historical events. Nothing can +equal the variety of his matter. I have heard him +more than twenty different times on the same +subject, but never heard the same speech. He is +personal, but there is nothing offensive in his +personalities. He extracts from a subject all that +it contains, and does it as none but Wendell +Phillips can. His voice is beautifully musical, +and it is calculated to attract wherever it is heard. +He is a man of calm intrepidity, of a patriotic +and warm heart, with manners the most affable, +temper the most gentle, a rectitude of principle +entirely natural, a freedom from ambition, and +a modesty quite singular. As Napoleon kept +the Old Guard in reserve, to turn the tide in +battle, so do the Abolitionists keep Mr. Phillips in +reserve when opposition is expected in their great +gatherings. We have seen the meetings turned +into a bedlam, by the mobocratic slave-holding +spirit, and when the speakers had one after +another left the platform without a hearing, and +the chairman had lost all control of the assembly, +the appearance of this gentleman upon the platform +would turn the tide of events. He would +<!-- Page 258 --><a name="Page_258" id="Page_258" title="258" class="pagenum"></a>not beg for a hearing, but on the contrary, he +would lash them as no preceding speaker had +done. If, by their groans and yells, they stifled +his voice, he would stand unmoved with his arms +folded, and by the very eloquence of his looks put +them to silence. His speeches against the Fugitive +Slave Law, and his withering rebukes of Daniel +Webster and other northern men who supported +that measure, are of the most splendid character, +and will compare in point of composition with anything +ever uttered by Chatham or Sheridan in +their palmiest days. As a public speaker, Mr. +Phillips is, without doubt, the first in the United +States. Considering his great talent, his high +birth, and the prospects which lay before him, and +the fact that he threw everything aside to plead +the slave's cause, we must be convinced that no +man has sacrificed more upon the altar of humanity +than Wendell Phillips.</p> + +<p>Within the past ten years, a great impetus has +been given to the anti-slavery movement in +America by coloured men who have escaped from +slavery. Coming as they did from the very +house of bondage, and being able to speak from +<!-- Page 259 --><a name="Page_259" id="Page_259" title="259" class="pagenum"></a>sad experience, they could speak as none others +could.</p> + +<p>The gentleman to whom we shall now call +attention is one of this class, and doubtless the +first of his race in America. The name of +Frederick Douglass is well known throughout this +country as well as America. Born and brought +up as a slave, he was deprived of a mother's +care and of early education. Escaping when +he was little more than twenty years of age, +he was thrown upon his own resources in the free +states, where prejudice against colour is but +another name for slavery. But during all this +time he was educating himself as well as circumstances +would admit. Mr. Douglass commenced +his career as a public speaker some ten years since, +as an agent of the American or Massachusetts Anti-Slavery +Societies. He is tall and well made. +His vast and well-developed forehead announces +the power of his intellect. His voice is full and +sonorous. His attitude is dignified, and his +gesticulation is full of noble simplicity. He is a +man of lofty reason, natural, and without pretension, +always master of himself, brilliant in the +<!-- Page 260 --><a name="Page_260" id="Page_260" title="260" class="pagenum"></a>art of exposing and of abstracting. Few persons +can handle a subject with which they are familiar +better than Mr. Douglass. There is a kind of +eloquence issuing from the depth of the soul, +as from a spring, rolling along its copious floods, +sweeping all before it, overwhelming by its very +force, carrying, upsetting, engulphing its adversaries, +and more dazzling and more thundering +than the bolt which leaps from crag to crag. +This is the eloquence of Frederick Douglass. He +is one of the greatest mimics of the age. No +man can put on a sweeter smile or a more sarcastic +frown than he: you cannot put him off his guard. +He is always in good humour. Mr. Douglass +possesses great dramatic powers; and had he +taken up the sock and buskin, instead of becoming +a lecturer, he would have made as fine a Coriolanus +as ever trod the stage.</p> + +<p>However, Mr. Douglass was not the first +coloured man that became a lecturer, and thereby +did service to the cause of his countrymen. The +earliest and most effective speaker from among +the coloured race in America, was Charles Lennox +Remond. In point of eloquence, this gentleman +<!-- Page 261 --><a name="Page_261" id="Page_261" title="261" class="pagenum"></a>is not inferior to either Wendell Phillips or +Frederick Douglass. Mr. Remond is of small +stature, and neat figure, with a head well developed, +but a remarkably thin face. As an elocutionist, +he is, without doubt, the first on the anti-slavery +platform. He has a good voice, a pleasing +countenance, a prompt intelligence, and when +speaking, is calculated to captivate and carry +away an audience by the very force of his +eloquence. Born in the freest state of the Union, +and of most respectable parents, he prides himself +not a little on his birth and descent. One can +scarcely find fault with this, for, in the United +States, the coloured man is deprived of the advantages +which parentage gives to the white man. +Mr. Remond is a descendant of one of those +coloured men who stood side by side with white +men on the plains of Concord and Lexington, in +the battles that achieved the independence of +the colonies from the mother country, in the war +of the Revolution. Mr. Remond has felt deeply, +(probably more so than any other coloured man), +the odious prejudice against colour. On this point +he is sensitive to a fault. If any one will sit for +<!-- Page 262 --><a name="Page_262" id="Page_262" title="262" class="pagenum"></a>an hour and hear a lecture from him on this subject, +if he is not converted, he will at least become +convinced, that the boiling cauldron of anti-slavery +discussion has never thrown upon its surface +a more fiery spirit than Charles Lennox Remond.</p> + +<p>There are some men who neither speak nor +write, but whose lives place them in the foremost +ranks in the cause which they espouse. One of +these is Francis Jackson. He was one of the +earliest to give countenance and support to the +anti-slavery movement. In the year 1835, when +a mob of more than 5000 merchants and others, +in Boston, broke up an anti-slavery meeting of +females, at which William Lloyd Garrison and +George Thompson were to deliver addresses, and +when the Society had no room in which to hold +its meetings (having been driven from their own +room by the mob), Francis Jackson, with a moral +courage scarcely ever equalled, came forward and +offered his private dwelling to the ladies, to hold +their meeting in. The following interesting +passage occurs in a letter from him to the +Secretary of the Society a short time after, on +receiving a vote of thanks from its members:—</p> + +<p>"<!-- Page 263 --><a name="Page_263" id="Page_263" title="263" class="pagenum"></a>If a large majority of this community choose +to turn a deaf ear to the wrongs which are +inflicted upon their countrymen in other portions +of the land—if they are content to turn +away from the sight of oppression, and 'pass by +on the other side'—so it must be.</p> + +<p>"But when they undertake in any way to +impair or annul my right to speak, write, and +publish upon any subject, and more especially +upon enormities, which are the common concern +of every lover of his country and his kind—so it +must not be—so it shall not be, if I for one can +prevent it. Upon this great right let us hold on +at all hazards. And should we, in its exercise, +be driven from public halls to private dwellings, +one house at least shall be consecrated to its +preservation. And if, in defence of this sacred +privilege, which man did not give me, and shall +not (if I can help it) take from me, this roof +and these walls shall be levelled to the earth, +let them fall if they must; they cannot crumble +in a better cause. They will appear of very +little value to me after their owner shall have +been whipt into silence."</p> + +<p><!-- Page 264 --><a name="Page_264" id="Page_264" title="264" class="pagenum"></a>There are among the contributors to the Anti-Slavery +cause, a few who give with a liberality +which has never been surpassed by the donors +to any benevolent association in the world, according +to their means—the chief of these is Francis +Jackson.</p> + +<p>In the month of May, <ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: Erratum applied, "1834" in the original text">1844</ins>, while one evening +strolling up Broadway, New York, I saw a +crowd making its way into the Minerva Rooms, +and, having no pressing engagement, I followed, +and was soon in a splendid hall, where some +twelve or fifteen hundred persons were seated, +and listening to rather a strange-looking man. +The speaker was tall and slim, with long arms, +long legs, and a profusion of auburn or reddish +hair hanging in ringlets down his shoulders; +while a huge beard of the same colour fell upon +his breast. His person was not at all improved +by his dress. The legs of his trousers were +shorter than those worn by smaller men: the +sleeves of his coat were small and short, the +shirt collar turned down in Byronic style, beard +and hair hid his countenance, so that no redeeming +feature could be found there; yet there was +<!-- Page 265 --><a name="Page_265" id="Page_265" title="265" class="pagenum"></a>one redeeming quality about the man—that was +the stream of fervid eloquence which escaped +from his lips. I inquired his name, and was informed +that it was Charles C. Burleigh. Nature +has been profuse in showering her gifts upon Mr. +Burleigh, but all has been bestowed upon his +head and heart. There is a kind of eloquence +which weaves its thread around the hearer, and +gradually draws him into its web, fascinating him +with its gaze, entangling him as the spider does +the fly, until he is fast: such is the eloquence of +C.C. Burleigh. As a debater he is unquestionably +the first on the Anti-slavery platform. If he +did not speak so fast, he would equal Wendell +Phillips; if he did not reason his subject out of +existence, he would surpass him. However, one +would have to travel over many miles, and look in +the faces of many men, before he would find one +who has made more personal sacrifices, or done +more to bring about the Emancipation of the +American Slaves, than Mr. Charles C. Burleigh.</p> + +<p>Whoever the future historian of the Anti-Slavery +movement may be, he will not be able to +compile a correct history of this great struggle, +<!-- Page 266 --><a name="Page_266" id="Page_266" title="266" class="pagenum"></a>without consulting the writings of Edmund +Quincy, a member of one of the wealthiest, patriotic, +and aristocratic families in New England: +the prestige of his name is a passport to all that +the heart could wish. Descended from a family, +whose name is connected with all that was glorious +in the great American Revolution, the son +of one who has again and again represented his +native State, in the National Congress, he too, +like Wendell Phillips, threw away the pearl of political +preferment, and devoted his distinguished +talents to the cause of the Slave. Mr. Quincy is +better known in this country as having filled +the editorial chair of <i>The Liberator</i>, during the +several visits of its Editor to Great Britain. As +a speaker, he does not rank as high as some who +are less known; as a writer, he has few equals. +The "Annual Reports" of the American and +Massachusetts Anti-Slavery Societies for the past +fifteen or twenty years, have emanated from his +pen. When posterity, in digging among the tombs +of the friends of mankind, and of universal freedom, +shall fail to find there the name of Edmund Quincy, +it will be because the engraver failed to do his duty.</p> + +<p><!-- Page 267 --><a name="Page_267" id="Page_267" title="267" class="pagenum"></a>Were we sent out to find a man who should +excel all others in collecting together new facts +and anecdotes, and varnishing up old ones so that +they would appear new, and bringing them into a +meeting and emptying out, good or bad, the +whole contents of his sack, to the delight and +admiration of the audience, we would unhesitatingly +select James N. Buffum as the man. If +Mr. Buffum is not a great speaker, he has what +many accomplished orators have not—<i>i.e.</i>, a noble +and generous heart. If the fugitive slave, fresh +from the cotton-field, should make his appearance +in the town of Lynn, in Massachusetts, and +should need a night's lodging or refreshments, +he need go no farther than the hospitable door +of James N. Buffum.</p> + +<p>Most men who inherit large fortunes, do little +or nothing to benefit mankind. A few, however, +spend their means in the best possible manner: +one of the latter class is Gerrit Smith. The +name of this gentleman should have been +brought forward among those who are first mentioned +in this chapter. Some eight or ten years +ago, Mr. Smith was the owner of large tracts of +<!-- Page 268 --><a name="Page_268" id="Page_268" title="268" class="pagenum"></a>land, lying in twenty-nine counties in the State +of New York, and came to the strange conclusion +to give the most of it away. Consequently, +three thousand lots of land, containing from +thirty to one hundred acres each, were given +to coloured men residing in the State—the +writer of this being one of the number.</p> + +<p>Although universal suffrage is enjoyed by the +whites in the State of New York, a property-qualification +is imposed on coloured men; and +this act of Mr. Smith's not only made three +thousand men the owners of land, but created +also three thousand voters. The ability to give, +and the willingness to do so, is not by any means +the greatest quality of this gentleman. As a +public speaker, Mr. Smith has few equals; and +certainly no man in his State has done more to +forward the cause of Negro Emancipation than he.</p> + +<p>We have already swelled the pages of this +chapter beyond what we intended when we commenced, +but yet we have called attention to only +one branch of American Reformers. The Temperance +Reformers are next to be considered. +This cause has many champions, and yet +<!-- Page 269 --><a name="Page_269" id="Page_269" title="269" class="pagenum"></a>none who occupy a very prominent position +before the world. The first temperance newspaper +published in the United States, was edited +by William Lloyd Garrison. Gerrit Smith has +also done much in promulgating temperance +views. But the most noted man in the movement +at the present time, and the one best known +to the British public, is John B. Gough. This +gentleman was at one time an actor on the stage, +and subsequently became an inebriate of the most +degraded kind. He was, however, reclaimed +through the great Washingtonian movement that +swept over the United States a few years since. +In stature, Mr. Gough is tall and slim, with black +hair, which he usually wears too long. As an +orator, he is considered among the first in the +United States. Having once been an actor, +he throws all his dramatic powers into his +addresses. He has a facility of telling strange +and marvellous stories which can scarcely be +surpassed; and what makes them still more +interesting, he always happens to be an eyewitness. +While speaking, he acts the drunkard, +and does it in a style which could not +<!-- Page 270 --><a name="Page_270" id="Page_270" title="270" class="pagenum"></a>be equalled on the boards of the Lyceum or +Adelphi. No man has obtained more signatures +to the temperance pledge than he. After all, it +is a question whether he has ever been of any +permanent service to this reform or not. Mr. +Gough has more than once fallen from his +position as a teetotaler; more than once he has +broken his pledge, and when found by his friends, +was in houses of a questionable character. However, +some are of opinion that these defects have +been of use to him; for when he has made his +appearance after one of these debaucheries, the +people appear to sympathize more with him, and +some thought he spoke better. If we believe +that a person could enjoy good health with water +upon the brain, we would be of opinion that Mr. +Gough's cranium contained a greater quantity +than that of any other living man. When speaking +before an audience, he can weep when he pleases; +and the tears shed on these occasions are none of +your make-believe kind—none of your small +drops trickling down the cheeks one at a time;—but +they come in great showers, so as even to +sprinkle upon the paper which he holds in his +<!-- Page 271 --><a name="Page_271" id="Page_271" title="271" class="pagenum"></a>hand. Of course, he is not alone in shedding +tears in his meetings, many of his hearers usually +join him; especially the ladies, as these showers +are intended for them. However, no one can sit +for an hour and hear John. B. Gough, without +coming to the conclusion that he is nothing more +than a theatrical mountebank.</p> + +<p>The ablest speaker on the subject of Peace, is +Charles Sumner. Standing more than six feet +in height, and well proportioned, Mr. Sumner +makes a most splendid and commanding appearance +before an assembly. It is not his looks +alone that attract attention—his very countenance +indicates a superior mind. Born in +the upper circle, educated in the first College in +the country, and finally becoming a member of +the Bar, he is well qualified to take the highest +possible position as a public speaker. As an +orator, Charles Sumner has but one superior in +the United States, and that is Wendell Phillips. +Mr. Sumner is an able advocate for the liberation +of the American Slaves as well as of the cause of +Peace, and has rendered great aid to the abolition +movement.</p> + +<p><!-- Page 272 --><a name="Page_272" id="Page_272" title="272" class="pagenum"></a>The name of Elihu Burritt, for many reasons, +should be placed at the head of the Peace Movement. +No man was ever more devoted to one +idea than he is to that of peace. If he is an +advocate of Temperance, it is because it will promote +peace. If he opposes Slavery, it is upon the +grounds of peace. Ask him why he wants an +"Ocean Penny Postage," he will tell you to +engender the principles of peace. Everything +with him hinges upon the doctrine of peace. As +a speaker, Mr. Burritt does not rank amongst the +first. However, his speeches are of a high order, +some think them too high, and complain that he +is too much of a cloud-traveller, and when he +descends from these aerial flights and cloudy +thrones, they are unwilling to admit that he can +be practical. If Mr. Burritt should prove as good +a statesman as a theorist, he would be an exception +to most who belong to the aerial school. As +a writer he stands deservedly high. In his +"Sparks from the Anvil," and "Voice from the +Forge," are to be found as fine pieces as +have been produced by any writer of the day. +His "Drunkard's Wife" is the most splendid +<!-- Page 273 --><a name="Page_273" id="Page_273" title="273" class="pagenum"></a>thing of the kind in the language. His stature is +of the middle size, head well developed, with eyes +deeply set, and a prepossessing countenance, +though not handsome; he wears an exterior of +remarkable austerity, and everything about him +is grave, even to his smile. Being well versed in +the languages, ancient and modern, he does not +lack <ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: Erratum applied, "vanity" in the original text">variety</ins> or imagination, either in his public +addresses or private conversation; yet it would be +difficult to find a man with a better heart, or +sweeter spirit, than Elihu Burritt.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="LETTER_XXII" id="LETTER_XXII"></a>LETTER XXII.</h2> + +<h3>A Narrative of American Slavery.</h3> + + +<p><span style="font-variant: small-caps;">Although</span> the first slaves, introduced into the +American Colonies from the coast of Africa, were +negroes of a very dark complexion with woolly hair, +and it was thought that slavery would be confined +to the blacks, yet the present slave population of +America is far from being black. This change in +<!-- Page 274 --><a name="Page_274" id="Page_274" title="274" class="pagenum"></a>colour, is attributable, solely to the unlimited +power which the slave owner exercises over his +victim. There being no lawful marriage amongst +slaves, and no encouragement to slave women to +be virtuous and chaste, there seems to be no +limits to the system of amalgamation carried on +between master and slave. This accounts for the +fact, that most persons who go from Europe, or +from the Free States, into Carolina or Virginia, are +struck with the different shades of colour amongst +the slaves. On a plantation employing fifty +slaves, it is not uncommon to see one third of +them mulattoes, and some of these nearly white.</p> + +<p>In the year 1831, there resided in the state of +Virginia, a slave who was so white, that no one +would suppose for a moment that a drop of +African blood coursed through his veins. His +skin was fair, hair soft, straight, fine and white; +his eyes blue, nose prominent, lips thin; his +head well formed, forehead high and prominent; +and he was often taken for a white free person, by +those who did not know him. This made his condition +as a slave still more intolerable; for one so +white, seldom ever receives fair treatment at the +<!-- Page 275 --><a name="Page_275" id="Page_275" title="275" class="pagenum"></a>hands of his fellow slaves; and the whites usually +regard such slaves as persons, who, if not often +flogged and otherwise ill treated, to remind them +of their condition, would soon "forget" that they +were slaves, and "think themselves as good as +white folks." During that year, an insurrection +broke out amongst the slave population, +known as the Southampton Rebellion, or the +"Nat Turner Insurrection." Five or six hundred +slaves, believing in the doctrine that +"all men are created equal," armed with such +weapons as they could get, commenced a war for +freedom. Amongst these was George, the white +slave of whom we have spoken. He had been +employed as a house servant, and had heard his +master and visiters speak of the down-trodden +and oppressed Poles; he heard them talk of going +to Greece to fight for Grecian liberty, and against +the oppressors of that ill-fated people. George, +fired with the love of freedom, and zeal for the +cause of his enslaved countrymen, joined the insurrection. +The result of that struggle for liberty +is well known. The slaves were defeated, and +those who were not taken prisoners, took refuge +<!-- Page 276 --><a name="Page_276" id="Page_276" title="276" class="pagenum"></a>in the dismal swamps. These were ordered to +surrender; but instead of doing so, they challenged +their proud oppressors to take them, and +immediately renewed the war. A ferocious struggle +now commenced between the parties; but +not until the United States troops were called +in, did they succeed in crushing a handful of men +and women who were fighting for freedom. The +negroes were hunted with dogs, and many who +were caught were burnt alive; while some were +hung, and others flogged and banished from the +State.</p> + +<p>Among those who were sentenced to be hanged, +was George. He was placed in prison to await +the day of execution, which would give him ten +days to prepare for his doom. George was the +son of a member of the American Congress, his +mother being a servant in the principal hotel in +Washington, where members of Congress usually +put up. After the birth of George, his mother +was sold to a negro trader, and he to a Virginian, +who sent agents through the country to buy +up young slaves to raise for the market. George +was only about nineteen years of age, when +<!-- Page 277 --><a name="Page_277" id="Page_277" title="277" class="pagenum"></a>he unfortunately became connected with the +insurrection. Mr. Green, who owned George, +was a comparatively good master, and prided +himself on treating his slaves better than most +men. This gentleman was also the owner of a +girl who was perfectly white, with straight hair and +prominent features. This girl was said to be the +daughter of her own master. A feeling of attachment +sprang up between Mary and George, +which proved to be more than mere friendship, +and upon which we base the burden of this narrative.</p> + +<p>After poor George had been sentenced to +death and cast into prison, Mary begged and obtained +leave to visit George, and administer to +him the comforts of religion, as she was a +member of a religious body, while George was not. +As George had been a considerable favourite with +Mrs. Green, Mary had no difficulty in obtaining +permission to pay a daily visit to him, to whom +she had pledged her heart and hand. At one of +these meetings, and only four days from the time +fixed for the execution, while Mary was seated in +George's cell, it occurred to her that she might +<!-- Page 278 --><a name="Page_278" id="Page_278" title="278" class="pagenum"></a>yet save him from a felon's doom. She revealed +to him the secret that was then occupying her +thoughts, viz., that George should exchange +clothes with her, and thus attempt his escape in +disguise. But he would not for a single moment +listen to the proposition. Not that he feared +detection; but he would not consent to place +an innocent and affectionate girl in a position +where she might have to suffer for him. +Mary pleaded, but in vain—George was inflexible. +The poor girl left her lover with a heavy +heart, regretting that her scheme had proved unsuccessful.</p> + +<p>Towards the close of the next day, Mary again +appeared at the prison door for admission, and +was soon by the side of him whom she so ardently +loved. While there, the clouds which had overhung +the city for some hours, broke, and the rain +fell in torrents amid the most terrific thunder and +lightning. In the most persuasive manner +possible, Mary again importuned George to avail +himself of her assistance to escape from an ignominious +death. After assuring him that she not +being the person condemned, would not receive +<!-- Page 279 --><a name="Page_279" id="Page_279" title="279" class="pagenum"></a>any injury, he at last consented, and they began +to exchange apparel. As George was of small +stature, and both were white, there was no +difficulty in his passing out without detection: +and as she usually left the cell weeping, with +handkerchief in hand, and sometimes at her face, +he had only to adopt this mode and his escape +was safe. They had kissed each other, and Mary +had told George where he would find a small +parcel of provisions which she had placed in a +secluded spot, when the prison-keeper opened the +door, and said, "Come, girl, it is time for you +to go." George again embraced Mary, and passed +out of the gaol. It was already dark and the +street lamps were lighted, so that our hero in his +new dress had no dread of detection. The provisions +were sought out and found, and poor +George was soon on the road towards Canada. +But neither of them had once thought of a change +of dress for George when he should have escaped, +and he had walked but a short distance before he +felt that a change of his apparel would facilitate +his progress. But he dared not go amongst even +his coloured associates for fear of being betrayed. +<!-- Page 280 --><a name="Page_280" id="Page_280" title="280" class="pagenum"></a>However, he made the best of his way on towards +Canada, hiding in the woods during the day, and +travelling by the guidance of the North Star at +night.</p> + +<p>One morning, George arrived on the banks of +the Ohio river, and found his journey had terminated, +unless he could get some one to take +him across the river in a secret manner, for he +would not be permitted to cross in any of the +ferry boats; it being a penalty for crossing a slave, +besides the value of the slave. He concealed +himself in the tall grass and weeds near the river, +to see if he could embrace an opportunity to cross. +He had been in his hiding-place but a short +time, when he observed a man in a small boat, +floating near the shore, evidently fishing. His +first impulse was to call out to the man and ask +him to take him over to the Ohio side, but the +fear that the man was a slaveholder, or one who +might possibly arrest him, deterred him from it. +The man after rowing and floating about for some +time fastened the boat to the root of a tree, and +started to a neighbouring farm-house. This was +George's moment, and he seized it. Running +<!-- Page 281 --><a name="Page_281" id="Page_281" title="281" class="pagenum"></a>down the bank, he unfastened the boat, jumped +in, and with all the expertness of one accustomed +to a boat, rowed across the river and landed on +the Ohio side.</p> + +<p>Being now in a free state, he thought he might +with perfect safety travel on towards Canada. He +had, however, gone but a few miles, when he discovered +two men on horseback coming behind +him. He felt sure that they could not be in pursuit +of him, yet he did not wish to be seen by +them, so he turned into another road, leading to +a house near by. The men followed, and were +but a short distance from George, when he ran +up to a farm house, before which was standing a +farmer-looking man, in a broad-brimmed hat and +straight collared coat, whom he implored to +save him from the "slave-catchers." The farmer +told him to go into the barn near by; he entered +by the front door, the farmer following, and +closing the door behind George, but remaining +outside, and gave directions to his hired man +as to what should be done with George. The +slaveholders by this time had dismounted, and +were in the front of the barn demanding ad<!-- Page 282 --><a name="Page_282" id="Page_282" title="282" class="pagenum"></a>mittance, +and charging the farmer with secreting +their slave woman, for George was +still in the dress of a woman. The Friend, for +the farmer proved to be a member of the Society +of Friends, told the slave-owners that if they +wished to search his barn, they must first get an +officer and a search warrant. While the parties +were disputing, the farmer began nailing up the +front door, and the hired man served the back +door in the same way. The slaveholders, finding +that they could not prevail on the Friend to allow +them to get the slave, determined to go in search +of an officer. One was left to see that the slave +did not escape from the barn, while the other +went off at full speed to Mount Pleasant, the +nearest town. George was not the slave of either +of these men, nor were they in pursuit of him, +but they had lost a woman who had been seen in +that vicinity, and when they saw poor George in +the disguise of a female, and attempting to elude +pursuit, they felt sure they were close upon their +victim. However, if they had caught him, although +he was not their slave, they would have +taken him back and placed him in <ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: "goal" in the original text">gaol</ins>, and +<!-- Page 283 --><a name="Page_283" id="Page_283" title="283" class="pagenum"></a>there he would have remained until his owner +arrived.</p> + +<p>After an absence of nearly two hours, the slave +owner returned with an officer and found the +Friend still driving large nails into the door. In +a triumphant tone, and with a corresponding gesture, +he handed the search-warrant to the Friend, +and said, "There, Sir, now I will see if I can't get +my Nigger." "Well," said the Friend, "thou +hast gone to work according to law, and thou can +now go into my barn." "Lend me your hammer +that I may get the door open," said the slaveholder. +"Let me see the warrant again." And +after reading it over once more, he said, "I see +nothing in this paper which says I must supply +thee with tools to open my door; if thou wishes +to go in, thou must get a hammer elsewhere." +The sheriff said, "I will go to a neighbouring +farm and borrow something which will introduce +us to Miss Dinah;" and he immediately went in +search of tools. In a short time the officer returned, +and they commenced an assault and +battery upon the barn door, which soon yielded; +and in went the slaveholder and officer, and +<!-- Page 284 --><a name="Page_284" id="Page_284" title="284" class="pagenum"></a>began turning up the hay and using all other +means to find the lost property; but, to their +astonishment, the slave was not there. After all +hope of getting Dinah was gone, the slave-owner +in a rage, said to the Friend, "My Nigger is not +here." "I did not tell thee there was any one +here." "Yes, but I saw her go in, and you shut +the door behind her, and if she was not in the +barn, what did you nail the door for?" "Can't I +do what I please with my own barn door? Now +I will tell thee; thou need trouble thyself no +more, for the person thou art after entered the +front door and went out at the back door, and is +a long way from here by this time. Thou +and thy friend must be somewhat fatigued by +this time, wont thou go in and take a little dinner +with me?" We need not say that this cool +invitation of the good Quaker was not accepted +by the slaveholders. George, in the meantime, +had been taken to a Friend's dwelling some miles +away, where, after laying aside his female attire, +and being snugly dressed up in a straight +collared coat, and pantaloons to match, was +again put on the right road towards Canada. +<!-- Page 285 --><a name="Page_285" id="Page_285" title="285" class="pagenum"></a>Two weeks after this found him in the town of +St. Catharines, working on the farm of Colonel +Strut, and attending a night school.</p> + +<p>George, however, did not forget his promise to +use all means in his power to get Mary out of +slavery. He, therefore, laboured with all his +might, to obtain money with which to employ +some one to go back to Virginia for Mary. After +nearly six months' labour at St. Catharines, he +employed an English missionary to go and see if +the girl could be purchased, and at what price. +The missionary went accordingly, but returned +with the sad intelligence that on account of +Mary's aiding George to escape, the court had +compelled Mr. Green to sell her out of the State, +and she had been sold to a Negro trader and +taken to the New Orleans market. As all hope +of getting the girl was now gone, George resolved +to quit the American continent for ever. He +immediately took passage in a vessel laden with +timber, bound for Liverpool, and in five weeks +from that time he was standing on the quay of the +great English seaport. With little or no education, +he found many difficulties in the way of +<!-- Page 286 --><a name="Page_286" id="Page_286" title="286" class="pagenum"></a>getting a respectable living. However, he obtained +a situation as porter in a large house in +Manchester, where he worked during the day, +and took private lessons at night. In this way +he laboured for three years, and was then raised +to the situation of a clerk. George was so white +as easily to pass for a white man, and being somewhat +ashamed of his African descent, he never +once mentioned the fact of his having been a +slave. He soon became a partner in the firm +that employed him, and was now on the road to +wealth.</p> + +<p>In the year 1842, just ten years after George +Green (for he adopted his master's name) arrived +in England, he visited France, and spent some +days at Dunkirk. It was towards sunset, on a +warm day in the month of October, that Mr. +Green, after strolling some distance from the +Hotel de Leon, entered a burial ground and wandered +long alone among the silent dead, gazing +upon the many green graves and marble tombstones +of those who once moved on the theatre of +busy life, and whose sounds of gaiety once fell +upon the ear of man. All nature around was +<!-- Page 287 --><a name="Page_287" id="Page_287" title="287" class="pagenum"></a>hushed in silence, and seemed to partake of the +general melancholy which hung over the quiet +resting place of departed mortals. After tracing +the varied inscriptions which told the characters +or conditions of the departed, and viewing +the mounds 'neath which the dust of mortality +slumbered, he had now reached a secluded +spot, near to where an aged weeping +willow bowed its thick foliage to the ground, as +though anxious to hide from the scrutinizing gaze +of curiosity the grave beneath it. Mr. Green +seated himself upon a marble tomb, and began to +read Roscoe's Leo X., a copy of which he had under +his arm. It was then about twilight, and he +had scarcely gone through half a page, when he +observed a lady in black, leading a boy some +five years old up one of the paths; and as +the lady's black veil was over her face, he felt +somewhat at liberty to eye her more closely. +While looking at her, the lady gave a scream and +appeared to be in a fainting position, when Mr. +Green sprang from his seat in time to save her +from falling to the ground. At this moment, an +elderly gentleman was seen approaching with a +<!-- Page 288 --><a name="Page_288" id="Page_288" title="288" class="pagenum"></a>rapid step, who from his appearance was evidently +the lady's father, or one intimately connected with +her. He came up, and in a confused manner, asked +what was the matter. Mr. Green explained as +well as he could. After taking up the smelling +bottle which had fallen from her hand, and holding +it a short time to her face, she soon began to +revive. During all this time, the lady's veil had +so covered her face, that Mr. Green had not seen +it. When she had so far recovered as to be able +to raise her head, she again screamed, and fell +back into the arms of the old man. It now appeared +quite certain, that either the countenance +of George Green, or some other object, was the +cause of these fits of fainting; and the old gentleman, +thinking it was the former, in rather a petulant +tone said, "I will thank you, Sir, if you will +leave us alone." The child whom the lady was +leading had now set up a squall; and amid the +death-like appearance of the lady, the harsh look +of the old man, and the cries of the boy, Mr. +Green left the grounds and returned to his hotel.</p> + +<p>Whilst seated by the window, and looking out +upon the crowded street, with every now and then +<!-- Page 289 --><a name="Page_289" id="Page_289" title="289" class="pagenum"></a>the strange scene in the grave-yard vividly before +him, Mr. Green thought of the book he had been +reading, and, remembering that he had left it on +the tomb, where he had suddenly dropped it when +called to the assistance of the lady, he immediately +determined to return in search of it. +After a walk of some twenty minutes, he was +again over the spot where he had been an hour +before, and from which he had been so unceremoniously +expelled by the old man. He looked +in vain for the book; it was no where to be +found: nothing save a bouquet which the lady +had dropped, and which lay half-buried in the +grass from having been trodden upon, indicated +that any one had been there that evening. Mr. +Green took up the bunch of flowers, and again +returned to the hotel.</p> + +<p>After passing a sleepless night, and hearing the +clock strike six, he dropped into a sweet sleep, +from which he did not awake until roused by the +rap of a servant, who, entering his room, handed +him a note which ran as follows:—"Sir,—I owe +you an apology for the inconveniences to which +you were subjected last evening, and if you will +<!-- Page 290 --><a name="Page_290" id="Page_290" title="290" class="pagenum"></a>honour us with your presence to dinner to-day at +four o'clock, I shall be most happy to give you +due satisfaction. My servant will be in waiting +for you at half-past three. I am, sir, your obedt. +servant, J. Devenant. October 23, to George +Green, Esq."</p> + +<p>The servant who handed this note to Mr. +Green, informed him that the bearer was waiting +for a reply. He immediately resolved to +accept the invitation, and replied accordingly. +Who this person was, and how his name and +the hotel where he was stopping had been found +out, was indeed a mystery. However, he waited +impatiently for the hour when he was to see this +new acquaintance, and get the mysterious meeting +in the grave-yard solved.</p> + +<p>The clock on a neighbouring church had +scarcely ceased striking three, when the servant +announced that a carriage had called for Mr. +Green. In less than half an hour, he was seated +in a most sumptuous barouch, drawn by two +beautiful iron greys, and rolling along over a +splendid gravel road, completely shaded by large +trees which appeared to have been the accumula<!-- Page 291 --><a name="Page_291" id="Page_291" title="291" class="pagenum"></a>ting +growth of many centuries. The carriage soon +stopped in front of a low villa, and this too was +imbedded in magnificent trees covered with moss. +Mr. Green alighted and was shown into a superb +drawing room, the walls of which were hung with +fine specimens from the hands of the great Italian +painters, and one by a German artist representing +a beautiful monkish legend connected with "The +Holy Catherine," and illustrious lady of Alexandria. +The furniture had an antique and dignified +appearance. High backed chairs stood around +the room; a venerable mirror stood on the mantle-shelf; +rich curtains of crimson damask hung in +folds at either side of the large windows; and a +rich Turkey carpet covered the floor. In the centre +stood a table covered with books, in the midst +of which was an old fashioned vase filled with +fresh flowers, whose fragrance was exceedingly +pleasant. A faint light, together with the quietness +of the hour gave beauty beyond description to +the whole scene.</p> + +<p>Mr. Green had scarcely seated himself upon +the sofa, when the elderly gentleman whom he +had met the previous evening made his appear<!-- Page 292 --><a name="Page_292" id="Page_292" title="292" class="pagenum"></a>ance, +followed by the little boy, and introduced +himself as Mr. Devenant. A moment more, and +a lady—a beautiful brunette—dressed in black, +with long curls of a chesnut colour hanging down +her cheeks, entered the room. Her eyes were of +a dark hazel, and her whole appearance indicated +that she was a native of a southern clime. The +door at which she entered was opposite to where +the two gentlemen were seated. They immediately +rose; and Mr. Devenant was in the act of +introducing her to Mr. Green, when he observed +that the latter had sunk back upon the sofa, and +the last word that he remembered to have heard +was, "It is her." After this, all was dark and +dreamy: how long he remained in this condition +it was for another to tell. When he awoke, he +found himself stretched upon the sofa, with his +boots off, his neckerchief removed, shirt collar +unbuttoned, and his head resting upon a pillow. +By his side sat the old man, with the smelling +bottle in the one hand, and a glass of water in the +other, and the little boy standing at the foot of +the sofa. As soon as Mr. Green had so far recovered +as to be able to speak, he said, "Where +<!-- Page 293 --><a name="Page_293" id="Page_293" title="293" class="pagenum"></a>am I, and what does this mean?" "Wait a +while," replied the old man, "and I will tell you +all." After the lapse of some ten minutes he +rose from the sofa, adjusted his apparel, and said, +"I am now ready to hear anything you have to +say." "You were born in America," said the old +man. "Yes," he replied. "And you were +acquainted with a girl named Mary," continued +the old man. "Yes, and I loved her as I can +love none other." "The lady whom you met +so mysteriously last evening is Mary," replied +Mr. Devenant. George Green was silent, +but the fountains of mingled grief and +joy stole out from beneath his eye lashes, +and glistened like pearls upon his pale and +marble-like cheeks. At this juncture the lady +again entered the room. Mr. Green sprang +from the sofa, and they fell into each other's arms, +to the surprise of the old man and little George, +and to the amusement of the servants who had +crept up one by one, and were hid behind the doors +or loitering in the hall. When they had given +vent to their feelings, they resumed their seats and +each in turn related the adventures through which +<!-- Page 294 --><a name="Page_294" id="Page_294" title="294" class="pagenum"></a>they had passed. "How did you find out my +name and address," asked Mr. Green? "After +you had left us in the grave-yard, our little +George said, 'O, mamma, if there aint a book!' and +picked it up and brought it to us. Papa opened +it, and said 'the gentleman's name is written in it, +and here is a card of the Hotel de Leon, where I +suppose he is stopping.' Papa wished to leave the +book, and said it was all a fancy of mine that I +had ever seen you before, but I was perfectly +convinced that you were my own George Green. +Are you married?" "No, I am not." "Then, +thank God!" exclaimed Mrs. Devenant. The old +man who had been silent all this time, said, +"Now, Sir, I must apologize for the trouble you +were put to last evening." "And you are single +now." "Yes," she replied. "This is indeed the +Lord's doings," said Mr. Green, at the same time +bursting into a flood of tears. Although Mr. +Devenant was past the age when men should +think upon matrimonial subjects, yet this scene +brought vividly before his eyes the days when he +was a young man, and had a wife living, and he +thought it time to call their attention to dinner, +<!-- Page 295 --><a name="Page_295" id="Page_295" title="295" class="pagenum"></a>which was then waiting. We need scarcely add, +that Mr. Green and Mrs. Devenant did very little +towards diminishing the dinner that day.</p> + +<p>After dinner the lovers (for such we have to +call them) gave their experience from the time +that George Green left the gaol, dressed in Mary's +clothes. Up to that time, Mr. Green's was substantially +as we have related it. Mrs. Devenant's +was as follows:—"The night after you left the +prison," said she, "I did not shut my eyes in +sleep. The next morning, about 8 o'clock, Peter, +the gardener, came to the gaol to see if I had +been there the night before, and was informed +that I had, and that I left a little after dark. +About an hour after, Mr. Green came himself, +and I need not say that he was much surprised +on finding me there, dressed in your clothes. +This was the first tidings they had of your escape." +"What did Mr. Green say when he found that +I had fled?" "O!" continued Mrs. Devenant, +"he said to me when no one was near, I +hope George will get off, but I fear you will +have to suffer in his stead. I told him that if it +must be so I was willing to die if you could live." +<!-- Page 296 --><a name="Page_296" id="Page_296" title="296" class="pagenum"></a>At this moment George Green burst into tears, +threw his arms around her neck, and exclaimed, +"I am glad I have waited so long, with the hope +of meeting you again."</p> + +<p>Mrs. Devenant again resumed her story:—"I +was kept in <ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: "goal" in the original text">gaol</ins> three days, during +which time I was visited by the Magistrates +and two of the Judges. On the third day +I was taken out, and master told me that I +was liberated, upon condition that I be immediately +sent out of the State. There happened to +be just at that time in the neighbourhood a +negro-trader, and he purchased me, and I was +taken to New Orleans. On the steam-boat we +were kept in a close room where slaves are +usually confined, so that I saw nothing of the +passengers on board or the towns we passed. +We arrived at New Orleans and were all put into +the slave-market for sale. I was examined by +many persons, but none seemed willing to +purchase me; as all thought me too white, and said +I would run away and pass as a free white woman. +On the second day while in the slave-market, +and while planters and others were examining +<!-- Page 297 --><a name="Page_297" id="Page_297" title="297" class="pagenum"></a>slaves and making their purchases, I observed a +tall young man with long black hair eyeing me +very closely, and then talking to the trader. I +felt sure that my time had now come, but the +day closed without my being sold. I did not +regret this, for I had heard that foreigners made +the worst of masters, and I felt confident that +the man who eyed me so closely was not an +American.</p> + +<p>"The next day was the Sabbath. The bells +called the people to the different places of +worship. Methodists sang, and Baptists immersed, +and Presbyterians sprinkled, and Episcopalians +read their prayers, while the ministers of +the various sects preached that Christ died for +all; yet there were some twenty-five or thirty +of us poor creatures confined in the '<i>Negro +Pen</i>' awaiting the close of the Holy Sabbath, +and the dawn of another day, to +be again taken into the market, there to be examined +like so many beasts of burden. I need +not tell you with what anxiety we waited for the +advent of another day. On Monday we were +again brought out, and placed in rows to be in<!-- Page 298 --><a name="Page_298" id="Page_298" title="298" class="pagenum"></a>spected; +and fortunately for me, I was sold +before we had been on the stand an hour. I was +purchased by a gentleman residing in the city, for +a waiting-maid for his wife, who was just on the +eve of starting for Mobile, to pay a visit to a near +relation. I was then dressed to suit the situation +of a maid-servant; and, upon the whole, I +thought that in my new dress I looked as much +the lady as my mistress.</p> + +<p>"On the passage to Mobile, who should I +see among the passengers, but the tall, long-haired +man that had eyed me so closely in +the slave-market a few days before. His eyes +were again on me, and he appeared anxious +to speak to me, and I as reluctant to be +spoken to. The first evening after leaving New +Orleans, soon after twilight had let her curtain +down, and pinned it with a star, and while I was +seated on the deck of the boat, near the ladies' +cabin, looking upon the rippled waves, and the +reflection of the moon upon the sea, all at once I +saw the tall young man standing by my side. I +immediately rose from my seat, and was in the +act of returning to the cabin, when he in a bro<!-- Page 299 --><a name="Page_299" id="Page_299" title="299" class="pagenum"></a>ken +accent said, 'Stop a moment; I wish to +have a word with you. I am your friend.' I +stopped and looked him full in the face, and he +said, 'I saw you some days since in the slave-market, +and I intended to have purchased you to +save you from the condition of a slave. I called +on Monday, but you had been sold and had left +the market. I inquired and learned who the +purchaser was, and that you had to go to Mobile, +so I resolved to follow you. If you are willing, I +will try and buy you from your present owner, +and you shall be free.' Although this was said +in an honest and off-hand manner, I could not +believe the man to be sincere in what he +said. 'Why should you wish to set <i>me</i> +free?' I asked. 'I had an only sister,' he replied, +'who died three years ago in France, and you are +so much like her, that had I not known of her +death, I would most certainly have taken you for +her.' 'However much I may resemble your sister, +you are aware that I am not her, and why +take so much interest in one whom you never saw +before?' 'The love,' said he, 'which I had for +my sister is transferred to you.' I had all along +<!-- Page 300 --><a name="Page_300" id="Page_300" title="300" class="pagenum"></a>suspected that the man was a knave, and this profession +of love confirmed me in my former belief, +and I turned away and left him.</p> + +<p>"The next day, while standing in the cabin +and looking through the window, the French +gentleman (for such he was) came to the window +while walking on the guards, and again +commenced as on the previous evening. He +took from his pocket a bit of paper and put +into my hand, and at the <ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: "sametime" in the original text">same time</ins> saying, +'Take this, it may some day be of service to +you, remember it is from a friend,' and left me +instantly. I unfolded the paper, and found it to +be a 100 dols. <ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: 'Bank' in the original text">bank</ins> note, on the United States +Branch Bank, at Philadelphia. My first impulse +was to give it to my mistress, but upon a second +thought, I resolved to seek an opportunity, and to +return the hundred dollars to the stranger. Therefore, +I looked for him, but in vain; and had almost +given up the idea of seeing him again, when +he passed me on the guards of the boat and +walked towards the stem of the vessel. It being +now dark, I approached him and offered the +money to him. He declined, saying at the +<!-- Page 301 --><a name="Page_301" id="Page_301" title="301" class="pagenum"></a>same time, 'I gave it to you—keep it.' 'I +do not want it,' I said. 'Now,' said he, 'you +had better give your consent for me to purchase +you, and you shall go with me to France.' +'But you cannot buy me now,' I replied, 'for +my master is in New Orleans, and he purchased +me not to sell, but to retain in his own family.' +'Would you rather remain with your present +mistress, than be free?' 'No,' said I. +'Then fly with me to-night; we shall be in +Mobile in two hours from this, and, when +the passengers are going on shore, you can +take my arm, and you can escape unobserved. +The trader who brought you to New Orleans +exhibited to me a certificate of your good +character, and one from the Minister of the +Church to which you were attached in Virginia; +and upon the faith of these assurances, and the +love I bear you, I promise before high heaven +that I will marry you as soon as it can be done.' +This solemn promise, coupled with what had +already transpired, gave me confidence in the man; +and rash as the act may seem, I determined in an +instant to go with him. My mistress had been +<!-- Page 302 --><a name="Page_302" id="Page_302" title="302" class="pagenum"></a>put under the charge of the captain; and as it +would be past ten o'clock when the steamer would +land, she accepted an invitation of the captain +to remain on board with several other ladies till +morning. I dressed myself in my best clothes, +and put a veil over my face, and was ready on the +landing of the boat. Surrounded by a number of +passengers, we descended the stage leading to the +wharf and were soon lost in the crowd that thronged +the quay. As we went on shore we encountered +several persons announcing the names of hotels, +the starting of boats for the interior, and vessels +bound for Europe. Among these was the ship +<i>Utica</i>, Captain Pell, bound for Havre. 'Now,' +said Mr. Devenant, 'this is our chance.' The +ship was to sail at 12 o'clock that night, at high +tide; and following the men who were seeking +passengers, we went immediately on board. +Devenant told the Captain of the ship that I was +his sister, and for such we passed during the +voyage. At the hour of twelve the <i>Utica</i> set sail, +and we were soon out at sea.</p> + +<p>"The morning after we left Mobile, Devenant +met me as I came from my state-room and +<!-- Page 303 --><a name="Page_303" id="Page_303" title="303" class="pagenum"></a>embraced me for the first time. I loved him, +but it was only that affection which we have +for one who has done us a lasting favour: it +was the love of gratitude rather than that of the +heart. We were five weeks on the sea, and yet +the passage did not seem long, for Devenant was +so kind. On our arrival at Havre, we were +married and came to Dunkirk, and I have resided +here ever since."</p> + +<p>At the close of this narrative, the clock +struck ten, when the old man, who was accustomed +to retire at an early hour, rose to +take leave, saying at the same time, "I hope +you will remain with us to-night." Mr. Green +would fain have excused himself, on the ground +that they would expect him and wait at the hotel, +but a look from the lady told him to accept the +invitation. The old man was the father of Mrs. Devenant's +deceased husband, as you will no doubt +long since have supposed. A fortnight from the day +on which they met in the grave-yard, Mr. Green +and Mrs. Devenant were joined in holy wedlock; +so that George and Mary, who had loved each +other so ardently in their younger days, were now +<!-- Page 304 --><a name="Page_304" id="Page_304" title="304" class="pagenum"></a>husband and wife. Without becoming responsible +for the truthfulness of the above narrative, I give +it to you, reader, as it was told to me in January +last, in France, by George Green himself.</p> + +<p>A celebrated writer has justly said of woman: +"A woman's whole life is a history of the affections. +The heart is her world; it is there her +ambition strives for empire; it is there her +avarice seeks for hidden treasures. She sends +forth her sympathies on adventure; she embarks +her whole soul in the traffic of affection; and if +shipwrecked, her case is hopeless—for it is a +bankruptcy of the heart."</p> + +<p>Mary had every reason to believe that she +would never see George again; and although she +confesses that the love she bore him was never +transferred to her first husband, we can scarcely +find fault with her for marrying Mr. Devenant. +But the adherence of George Green to the <ins class="correction" title="Transcriber's Note: "re-resolution" in the original text">resolution</ins> +never to marry, unless to his Mary, is, +indeed, a rare instance of the fidelity of man +in the matter of love. We can but blush for our +country's shame, when we recall to mind the fact, +that while George and Mary Green, and numbers +<!-- Page 305 --><a name="Page_305" id="Page_305" title="305" class="pagenum"></a>of other fugitives from American slavery, can +receive protection from any of the Governments of +Europe, they cannot return to their native land +without becoming slaves.</p> + + + +<h2>FINIS.</h2> + + +<p style="text-align: center">AYR: PRINTED AT THE ADVERTISER OFFICE. +</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<pre> +<b>Transcriber's notes:</b> + +ERRATA from the original volume, applied to the text. +====== + +Page 8, eleventh line from bottom, <i>for</i> villages <i>read</i> villas +The beautiful villages [**Erratum: villas] on the opposite side of the + +145, fourth line from top, <i>for</i> Dante <i>read</i> Whittier +our own Dante? [**Erratum: Whittier?] + +205, second line from bottom, <i>for</i> towns <i>read</i> lawns +in the vicinity of the lakes. Magnificent towns [**Erratum: lawns] + +264, seventh line from top, <i>for</i> 1834 <i>read</i> 1844 +In the month of May, 1834, [**Erratum: 1844,] while one evening + +273, eighth line from top, <i>for</i> vanity <i>read</i> variety +lack vanity [**Erratum: variety] or imagination, either in his public + +Letter XXIII displaced to be between XII and XIII, as per editor's footnote. + +TYPOS +===== + +All "Mr" replaced with "Mr." (~10%). Similarly for "Mrs". + +play," was to flag [**typo: flog] his slaves severely, and + +tyranny in Great Britian [**typo: Britain] found social and + +passengers, forty of whom were the "Vienneise [**typo: Viennese] + +we were in sight of the land of Emmitt [**typo: Emmett] and + +Rev. Dr. Ritchie, of Edinburgh. [** quote deleted] "It is indeed a + +by M. Duguery, [**typo: Duguerry,] curé of the Madeleine, + +The column is in imitation of the Trojan [**typo: Trajan] + +XVI. and Marie Antionette [**typo: Antoinette] were driven from it by + +building. [** full-stop added] The speaker, in the delivery of one of + +Fète. [**typo: Fête.] + +soirèe [**typo: soirée] by M. de Tocqueville, Minister for + +to the whole scene out of doors. The soirèe [**typo: soirée] + +announced, and after a good deal of jambing [**typo: jamming] and + +same basket, without any regard to birth or station. [** full-stop added] + +had more interesting incidents occuring [**typo: occurring] in it than + +of Raphael and David—Arc de Triomphe—Beranger [** final em-dash added] + +Jardin des Plantes, and spent an hour and a-half [**typo: a half] + +Were [**typo: were] at the time continually running through my + +meeted [**typo: meted] out to me while at Hartwell. And the + +I will see you." [** missing quote inserted] In looking across the street, I + +great contrast beetween [**typo: between] the monster Institution, + +The Tower is surounded [**typo: surrounded] by a high wall, and + +skilful muscians; [**typo: musicians;] I have listened with delight + +history, and the accumulated discoveries of byegone [**typo: bygone] + +acquiline, [**typo: aquiline] his mouth rather small, and not at all + +and died at Newstead Abbey, November 18, 1808." [**missing quote inserted] + +with the poet and saying:— [**colon added] + +had such ruins in view when he exclaimed:— [**colon added] + +Elyses [**typo: Elysees] at Paris; and as for statuary, the latter + +where the celebrated Reformer, John Knox, re-resided.[**typo: resided.] + +lake is carved out and and [**typo: deleted second "and"] built up into terrace + +through to the north gallery, and and [**typo: deleted second "and"] thence to + +myself upon so diminutive a looking [**typo: looking a] creature. + +upon the wing—the artifical [**typo: artificial] stream, the brook + +seemed to have forgotton [**typo: forgotten] that this was an exhibition + +"Sartar [**typo: Sartor] Resartus," and if he does not rise from its + +the cloisters of Tinterran [**typo: Tintern] Abbey, in its proudest + +that which has accomplished the mightest [**typo: mightiest] and + +That measure was in every respect an unconsitutional [**typo: unconstitutional] + +practice what they have so long professsd [**typo: professed]. (Hear, + +I had writen [**typo: written] for the occasion, was unanimously + +taken him back and placed him in goal [**typo: gaol], and + +was kept in goal [**typo: gaol] three days, during + +into my hand, and at the sametime [**typo: same time] saying, + +be a 100 dols. Bank [**typo?: bank] note, on the United States + +But the adherence of George Green to the re-resolution [**typo: resolution] + + +Apparent errata, but possibly acceptable period words: (left as-is in text). +=============== + +without the least difficulty, and his jestures, [**typo: gestures,] + Per OED, jesture obs. form of gesture. May be typo? + +motion, and the variagated [**typo: variegated] lamps with their many + Per OED, verb variagate was known variant of variegate up to the 19th century + +enemies on the 13th Vendimaire [**typo: Vendémiaire]. The Hotel de + May be British variant used at the period + +observed visiters [**typo: visitors] lingering about it, as if they + May be valid past spelling + +being conveyed to them by means of a pully-basket, [**typo: pulley-basket,] + Per OED, pully known variant of pulley, 15th-19th centuries + +under heaven!—Perish the sum of all villanies! [**typo: villainies!] + Per OED, known alternate spelling, 16th-19th centuries + +force, carrying, upsetting, engulphing [**typo: engulfing] its adversaries, + Per OED, known alternate spelling (along with ingulf and ingulph); + an example of engulph quoted from an 1871 source. + +master and visiters [**typo: visitors] speak of the down-trodden + May be valid past spelling + +with long curls of a chesnut [**typo: chestnut] colour hanging down + Per OED, chesnut was the most common spelling as late as 1820. + Johnson set "chestnut" as the standard... + +Others found to be acceptable variants: + Bastile, + plebians, + laureat, + trode, + Shakspere. + +</pre> +<p> </p> +<hr class="full" /> +<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THREE YEARS IN EUROPE***</p> +<p>******* This file should be named 15830-h.txt or 15830-h.zip *******</p> +<p>This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:<br /> +<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/5/8/3/15830">https://www.gutenberg.org/1/5/8/3/15830</a></p> +<p>Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed.</p> + +<p>Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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