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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: A Continuation of a Voyage to New Holland + +Author: William Dampier + +Release Date: April 22, 2005 [EBook #15685] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A CONTINUATION OF A VOYAGE *** + + + + +Produced by Sue Asscher. HTML by Col Choat. Produced from page images +provided by canadiana.org (http://www.canadiana.org/ECO/mtq?doc=34674) + + + + + + +</pre> + + +<p><a name="home"></a></p> + +<h2>A CONTINUATION OF A VOYAGE TO NEW HOLLAND, ETC.</h2> + +<h3>IN THE YEAR 1699.</h3> + +<h4>Wherein are described, The Islands Timor, Roti and Anabao. A passage between the islands Timor +and Anabao. Kupang and Laphao Bays. The islands Omba, Fetter, Banda and +Bird. A description of the coast of New Guinea. The islands Pulo Sabuda, +Cockle, King William's, Providence, Gerrit Denis, Anthony Cave's and St. +John's. Also a new passage between New Guinea and New Britain. The +islands Ceram, Bonao, Bouro, and several islands before unknown. The +coast of Java, and Straits of Sunda. Author's arrival at Batavia, Cape of +Good Hope, St. Helena, island of Ascension, etc. Their inhabitants, +customs, trade, etc. Harbours, soil, birds, fish, etc. Trees, plants, +fruits, etc.</h4> + +<hr align="center" width="25%"> + +<h4>Illustrated with several maps and draughts: also divers birds, fishes and +plants not found in this part of the world, curiously engraven on copper plates.</h4> + +<hr align="center" width="25%"> + +<h2>BY CAPTAIN WILLIAM DAMPIER.</h2> + +<hr align="center" width="25%"> + +<h4>LONDON, </h4> + +<h4>Printed for James and John Knapton at the Crown in St. Paul's Churchyard.</h4> + +<h4>1729.</h4> + +<hr align="center" width="50%"> + +<center> +<p><a name="dampier-nh2-00"></a><img alt="" src="images/dampier-nh2-00.jpg"></p> +</center> + +<center> +<p><a name="dampier-nh2-02"></a><img alt="" src="images/dampier-nh2-02.jpg"></p> +<p><b>MAP. A VIEW OF THE COURSE OF CAPTAIN WILLIAM DAMPIER'S VOYAGE FROM TIMOR ROUND NEW BRITAIN ETC.</b></p> +</center> + +<center> +<p><a name="dampier-nh2-01"></a><img alt="" src="images/dampier-nh2-01.jpg"></p> +<p><b>Captain William Dampier painted by T. Murray, 1698.</b></p> +</center> + +<center> +<p><a name="dampier-nh2-20"></a><img alt="" src="images/dampier-nh2-20.jpg"></p> +</center> + +<hr align="center" width="50%"> + +<h2>CONTENTS.</h2> + +<p><a href="#ch1">CHAPTER 1.</a></p> + +<blockquote>The Author's departure from the coast of New Holland, with the reasons of it.<br> +Watersnakes.<br> +The Author's arrival at the island Timor.<br> +Search for fresh water on the south side of the island, in vain.<br> +Fault of the charts.<br> +The island Roti.<br> +A passage between the islands Timor and Anabao.<br> +Fault of the charts.<br> +A Dutch fort, called Concordia.<br> +Their suspicion of the Author.<br> +The island Anabao described.<br> +The Author's parley with the Governor of the Dutch fort.<br> +They, with great difficulty, obtain leave to water.<br> +Kupang Bay.<br> +Coasting along the north side of Timor.<br> +They find water and an anchoring-place.<br> +A description of a small island, seven leagues east from the<br> +watering-bay.<br> +Laphao Bay.<br> +How the Author was treated by the Portuguese there.<br> +Designs of making further searches upon and about the island.<br> +Port Sesial.<br> +Return to Babao in Kupang Bay.<br> +The Author's entertainment at the fort of Concordia.<br> +His stay seven weeks at Babao.</blockquote> + +<p><a href="#ch2">CHAPTER 2.</a></p> + +<blockquote>A particular description of the island Timor.<br> +Its coast.<br> +The island Anabao.<br> +Fault of the charts.<br> +The channel between Timor and Anabao.<br> +Kupang Bay.<br> +Fort Concordia.<br> +A particular description of the bay.<br> +The anchoring-place, called Babao.<br> +The Malayans here kill all the Europeans they can.<br> +Laphao, a Portuguese settlement, described.<br> +Port Ciccale.<br> +The hills, water, lowlands, soil, woods, metals, in the island Timor.<br> +Its trees.<br> +Cana-fistula-tree described.<br> +Wild figtrees described.<br> +Two new sorts of palmtrees described.<br> +The fruits of the island.<br> +The herbs.<br> +Its land animals.<br> +Fowls.<br> +The ringing-bird.<br> +Its fish.<br> +Cockle merchants and oysters.<br> +Cockles as big as a man's head.<br> +Its original natives described.<br> +The Portuguese and Dutch settlements.<br> +The Malayan language generally spoken here.<br> +L'Orantuca on the island Ende.<br> +The seasons, winds, and weather at Timor.</blockquote> + +<p><a href="#ch3">CHAPTER 3.</a></p> + +<blockquote>Departure from Timor.<br> +The islands Omba and Fetter.<br> +A burning island.<br> +Their missing the Turtle Isles.<br> +Banda Isles.<br> +Bird Island.<br> +They descry the coast of New Guinea.<br> +They anchor on the coast of New Guinea.<br> +A description of the place, and of a strange fowl found there.<br> +Great quantities of mackerel.<br> +A white island.<br> +They anchor at an island called by the inhabitants Pulo Sabuda.<br> +A description of it and its inhabitants and product.<br> +The Indians' manner of fishing there.<br> +Arrival at Mabo, the north-west cape of New Guinea.<br> +A description of it.<br> +Cockle Island.<br> +Cockles of seventy-eight pound weight.<br> +Pigeon Island.<br> +The wind hereabouts.<br> +An empty cockleshell weighing two hundred fifty-eight pound.<br> +King William's Island.<br> +A description of it.<br> +Plying on the coast of New Guinea.<br> +Fault of the charts.<br> +Providence Island.<br> +They cross the Line.<br> +A snake pursued by fish.<br> +Squally Island.<br> +The main of New Guinea.</blockquote> + +<p><a href="#ch4">CHAPTER 4.</a></p> + +<blockquote>The mainland of New Guinea.<br> +Its inhabitants.<br> +Slingers Bay.<br> +Small islands.<br> +Gerrit Dennis Isle described.<br> +Its inhabitants.<br> +Their proas.<br> +Anthony Cave's Island.<br> +Its inhabitants.<br> +Trees full of worms found in the sea.<br> +St. John's Island.<br> +The mainland of New Guinea.<br> +Its inhabitants.<br> +The coast described.<br> +Cape and Bay St. George.<br> +Cape Orford.<br> +Another bay.<br> +The inhabitants there.<br> +A large account of the author's attempts to trade with them.<br> +He names the place Port Montague.<br> +The country thereabouts described, and its produce.<br> +A burning island described.<br> +A new passage found.<br> +New Britain.<br> +Sir George Rook's Island.<br> +Long Island and Crown Island, discovered and described.<br> +Sir R. Rich's Island.<br> +A burning island.<br> +A strange spout.<br> +A conjecture concerning a new passage southward.<br> +King William's Island.<br> +Strange whirlpools.<br> +Distance between Cape Mabo and Cape St. George computed.</blockquote> + +<p><a href="#ch5">CHAPTER 5.</a></p> + +<blockquote>The Author's return from the coast of New Guinea.<br> +A deep channel.<br> +Strange tides.<br> +The island Ceram described.<br> +Strange fowls.<br> +The islands Bonao, Bouro, Misacombi, Pentare, Laubana, and Potoro.<br> +The passage between Pentare and Laubana.<br> +The island Timor.<br> +Babao Bay.<br> +The island Roti.<br> +More islands than are commonly laid down in the charts.<br> +Great currents.<br> +Whales.<br> +Coast of New Holland.<br> +The Trial Rocks.<br> +The coast of Java.<br> +Princes Isle.<br> +Straits of Sunda.<br> +Thwart-the-way Island.<br> +Indian proas, and their traffic.<br> +Passage through the Strait.<br> +Arrival at Batavia.</blockquote> + +<p><a href="#ch6">CHAPTER 6.</a></p> + +<blockquote>The Author continues in Batavia Road to refit, to get provisions.<br> +English ships then in the road.<br> +Departure from Batavia.<br> +Touch at the Cape of Good Hope.<br> +And at St. Helena.<br> +Arrival at the island of Ascension.<br> +A leak sprung.<br> +Which being impossible to be stopped, the ship is lost, but the men saved.<br> +They find water upon the island.<br> +And are brought back to England.</blockquote> + +<h2>MAPS AND ILLUSTRATIONS.</h2> + +<p><a href="#dampier-nh2-02">MAP. A VIEW OF THE COURSE OF CAPTAIN WILLIAM DAMPIER'S VOYAGE FROM TIMOR ROUND NEW BRITAIN ETC.</a></p> + +<p><a href="#dampier-nh2-03">TABLE 5. TIMOR.</a></p> + +<p><a href="#dampier-nh2-04">TABLE 6. TIMOR.</a></p> +<p><a href="#dampier-nh2-05">TABLE 7. TIMOR AND OTHER ISLANDS BETWEEN IT AND NEW GUINEA.</a></p> +<p><a href="#dampier-nh2-06">TABLE 8. NEW GUINEA.</a></p> +<p><a href="#dampier-nh2-07">FISH, BAT AND BIRD OF NEW GUINEA:</a></p> +<p>THIS FISH IS OF A PALE RED ALL PARTS OF IT EXCEPT THE EYE TAKEN ON THE COAST OF NEW GUINEA. +STRANGE AND LARGE BATS ON THE ISLAND PULO SABUDA IN NEW GUINEA. +THIS BIRD'S EYE IS OF A BRIGHT RED.</p> +<p><a href="#dampier-nh2-08">TABLE 9. NEW GUINEA.</a></p> +<p><a href="#dampier-nh2-09">TABLE 10. NEW GUINEA ETC.</a></p> +<p><a href="#dampier-nh2-10">TABLE 11. SQUALLY AND OTHER ISLANDS ON THE COAST OF NEW BRITAIN.</a></p> +<p><a href="#dampier-nh2-11">FISHES TAKEN ON THE COAST OF NEW GUINEA:</a></p> +<p>THIS FISH FINS AND TAIL ARE BLUE ON THE EDGES AND RED IN THE MIDDLE WITH BLUE SPOTS ALL OVER THE BODY BUT THE BELLY WHITE. +A PIKE-FISH CONGER ON THE COAST OF NEW GUINEA. +THIS FISH IS A PALE RED WITH BLUE SPOTS ON THE BODY, THE LONG TAIL BLUE IN THE MIDDLE AND WHITE ON THE SIDE. +A FISH.</p> +<p><a href="#dampier-nh2-12">TABLE 12. NEW BRITAIN.</a></p> +<p><a href="#dampier-nh2-13">FISHES TAKEN ON THE COAST OF NEW GUINEA:</a></p> +<p>THIS FISH HIS FINS AND TAIL IS BLUE WITH BLUE SPOTS ALL OVER THE BODY. +FOUR FISH AND A CRUSTACEAN.</p> +<p><a href="#dampier-nh2-14">TABLE 13. DAMPIER'S PASSAGE AND ISLANDS ON THE COAST OF NEW GUINEA.</a></p> +<p><a href="#dampier-nh2-15">TABLE 14. ISLANDS ON THE COAST OF NEW GUINEA.</a></p> +<p><a href="#dampier-nh2-16">TABLE 15. GILOLO AND OTHER ISLANDS BETWEEN IT AND BOURO.</a></p> +<p><a href="#dampier-nh2-17">BIRDS OF NEW GUINEA:</a></p> +<p>THIS BIRD WAS TAKEN ON THE COAST OF NEW GUINEA. +A STATELY LAND-FOWL ON THE COAST OF NEW GUINEA DESCRIBED. +A STRANGE LAND-FOWL ON THE ISLAND CERAM.</p> +<p><a href="#dampier-nh2-18">TABLE 16. BOURO AND OTHER ISLANDS BETWEEN IT AND AMBO.</a></p> + +<hr align="center" width="50%"> + +<p><a name="ch1"></a></p> +<h3>CHAPTER 1.</h3> + +<h4>NORTH FROM NEW HOLLAND FOR WATER.</h4> + +<p>THE AUTHOR'S DEPARTURE FROM THE COAST OF NEW HOLLAND, WITH THE REASONS OF IT.</p> + +<p>I had spent about 5 weeks in ranging off and on the coast of New Holland, +a length of about 300 leagues: and had put in at 3 several places to see +what there might be thereabouts worth discovering; and at the same time +to recruit my stock of fresh water and provisions for the further +discoveries I purposed to attempt on the Terra Australis. This large and +hitherto almost unknown tract of land is situated so very advantageously +in the richest climates of the world, the torrid and temperate zones; +having in it especially all the advantages of the torrid zone, as being +known to reach from the equator itself (within a degree) to the Tropic of +Capricorn, and beyond it; that in coasting round it, which I designed by +this voyage, if possible, I could not but hope to meet with some fruitful +lands, continent or islands, or both, productive of any of the rich +fruits, drugs, or spices (perhaps minerals also, etc.) that are in the +other parts of the torrid zone, under equal parallels of latitude; at +least a soil and air capable of such, upon transplanting them hither, and +cultivation. I meant also to make as diligent a survey as I could of the +several smaller islands, shores, capes, bays, creeks, and harbours, fit +as well for shelter as defence, upon fortifying them; and of the rocks +and shoals, the soundings, tides, and currents, winds and weather, +variation, etc., whatever might be beneficial for navigation, trade or +settlement; or be of use to any who should prosecute the same designs +hereafter; to whom it might be serviceable to have so much of their work +done to their hands; which they might advance and perfect by their own +repeated experiences. As there is no work of this kind brought to +perfection at once I intended especially to observe what inhabitants I +should meet with, and to try to win them over to somewhat of traffic and +useful intercourse, as there might be commodities among any of them that +might be fit for trade or manufacture, or any found in which they might +be employed. Though as to the New Hollanders hereabouts, by the +experience I had had of their neighbours formerly, I expected no great +matters from them.</p> + +<p>With such views as these I set out at first from England; and would, +according to the method I proposed formerly, have gone westward through +the Magellanic Strait, or round Tierra del Fuego rather, that I might +have begun my discoveries upon the eastern and least known side of the +Terra Australis. But that way it was not possible for me to go by reason +of the time of year in which I came out; for I must have been compassing +the south of America in a very high latitude in the depth of the winter +there. I was therefore necessitated to go eastward by the Cape of Good +Hope; and when I should be past it it was requisite I should keep in a +pretty high latitude, to avoid the general tradewinds that would be +against me, and to have the benefit of the variable winds: by all which I +was in a manner unavoidably determined to fall in first with those parts +of New Holland I have hitherto been describing. For should it be asked +why at my first making that shore I did not coast it to the southward, +and that way try to get round to the east of New Holland and New Guinea; +I confess I was not for spending my time more than was necessary in the +higher latitudes; as knowing that the land there could not be so well +worth the discovering as the parts that lay nearer the Line and more +directly under the sun. Besides, at the time when I should come first on +New Holland, which was early in the spring, I must, had I stood +southward, have had for some time a great deal of winter weather, +increasing in severity, though not in time, and in a place altogether +unknown; which my men, who were heartless enough to the voyage at best, +would never have borne after so long a run as from Brazil hither.</p> + +<p>For these reasons therefore I chose to coast along to the northward, and +so to the east, and so thought to come round by the south of Terra +Australis in my return back, which should be in the summer season there: +and this passage back also I now thought I might possibly be able to +shorten, should it appear, at my getting to the east coast of New Guinea, +that there is a channel there coming out into these seas, as I now +suspected, near Rosemary Island: unless the high tides and great +indraught thereabout should be occasioned by the mouth of some large +river; which has often low lands on each side of its outlet, and many +islands and shoals lying at its entrance. But I rather thought it a +channel or strait than a river: and I was afterwards confirmed in this +opinion when, by coasting New Guinea, I found that other parts of this +great tract of Terra Australis, which had hitherto been represented as +the shore of a continent, were certainly islands; and it is probably the +same with New Holland: though, for reasons I shall afterwards show, I +could not return by the way I proposed to myself to fix the discovery. +All that I had now seen from the latitude of 27 degrees south to 25, +which is Shark's Bay; and again from thence to Rosemary Islands and about +the latitude of 20; seems to be nothing but ranges of pretty large +islands against the sea, whatever might be behind them to the eastward, +whether sea or land, continent or islands.</p> + +<p>But to proceed with my voyage. Though the land I had seen as yet was not +very inviting, being but barren towards the sea, and affording me neither +fresh water nor any great store of other refreshments, nor so much as a +fit place for careening; yet I stood out to sea again with thoughts of +coasting still alongshore (as near as I could) to the north-eastward, for +the further discovery of it: persuading myself that at least the place I +anchored at in my voyage round the world, in the latitude of 16 degrees +15 minutes, from which I was not now far distant, would not fail to +afford me sweet water upon digging, as it did then; for the brackish +water I had taken in here, though it served tolerably well for boiling, +was yet not very wholesome.</p> + +<p>With these intentions I put to sea on the 5th of September 1699, with a +gentle gale, sounding all the way; but was quickly induced to alter my +design. For I had not been out above a day but I found that the shoals +among which I was engaged all the while on the coast, and was like to be +engaged in, would make it a very tedious thing to sail along by the +shore, or to put in where I might have occasion. I therefore edged +farther off to sea, and so deepened the water from 11 to 32 fathom. The +next day, being September the 6th, we could but just discern the land, +though we had then no more than about 30 fathom, uncertain soundings; for +even while we were out of sight of land we had once but 7 fathom, and had +also great and uncertain tides whirling about, that made me afraid to go +near a coast so shallow, where we might be soon aground and yet have but +little wind to bring us off: for should a ship be near a shoal she might +be hurled upon it unavoidably by a strong tide, unless there should be a +good wind to work her and keep her off. Thus also on the 7th day we saw +no land, though our water decreased again to 26 fathom; for we had +deepened it, as I said, to 30.</p> + +<p>WATERSNAKES.</p> + +<p>This day we saw two water-snakes, different in shape from such as we had +formerly seen. The one was very small, though long; the other long and as +big as a man's leg, having a red head; which I never saw any have, before +or since. We had this day latitude 16 degrees 9 minutes by observation.</p> + +<p>I was by this time got to the north of the place I had thought to have +put in at where I dug wells in my former voyage; and though I knew, by +the experience I had of it then, that there was a deep entrance in +thither from the eastward; yet by the shoals I had hitherto found so far +stretched on this coast, I was afraid I should have the same trouble to +coast all along afterwards beyond that place: and besides the danger of +running almost continually amongst shoals on a strange shore, and where +the tides were strong and high; I began to bethink myself that a great +part of my time must have been spent in being about a shore I was already +almost weary of, which I might employ with greater satisfaction to my +mind, and better hopes of success, in going forward to New Guinea. Add to +this the particular danger I should have been in upon a lee shore, such +as is here described, when the north-west monsoon should once come in; +the ordinary season of which was not now far off, though this year it +stayed beyond the common season; and it comes on storming at first, with +tornadoes, violent gusts, etc. Wherefore quitting the thoughts of putting +in again at New Holland, I resolved to steer away for the island Timor; +where, besides getting fresh water, I might probably expect to be +furnished with fruits and other refreshments to recruit my men, who began +to droop; some of them being already to my great grief afflicted with the +scurvy, which was likely to increase upon them and disable them, and was +promoted by the brackish water they took in last for boiling their +oatmeal. It was now also towards the latter end of the dry season; when I +might not probably have found water so plentifully upon digging at that +part of New Holland as when I was there before in the wet season. And +then, considering the time also that I must necessarily spend in getting +in to the shore through such shoals as I expected to meet with; or in +going about to avoid them; and in digging of wells when I should come +hither: I might very well hope to get to Timor and find fresh water there +as soon as I could expect to get it at New Holland; and with less trouble +and danger.</p> + +<p>On the 8th of September therefore, shaping our course for Timor, we were +in latitude 15 degrees 37 minutes. We had 26 fathom coarse sand; and we +saw one whale. We found them lying most commonly near the shore or in +shoal water. This day we also saw some small white clouds; the first that +we had seen since we came out of Shark's Bay. This was one sign of the +approach of the north-north-west monsoon. Another sign was the shifting +of the winds; for from the time of our coming to our last anchoring +place, the seabreezes which before were easterly and very strong had been +whiffling about and changing gradually from the east to the north, and +thence to the west, blowing but faintly, and now hanging mostly in some +point of the west. This day the winds were at south-west by west, blowing +very faint; and the 9th day we had the wind at north-west by north, but +then pretty fresh; and we saw the clouds rising more and thicker in the +north-west. This night at 12 we lay by for a small low sandy island which +I reckoned myself not far from. The next morning at sun-rising we saw it +from the top-masthead, right ahead of us; and at noon were up within a +mile of it: when by a good observation I found it to lie in 13 degrees 55 +minutes. I have mentioned it in my first volume, but my account then made +it to lie in 13 degrees 50 minutes. We had abundance of boobies and +man-of-war-birds flying about us all the day; especially when we came +near the island; which had also abundance of them upon it; though it was +but a little spot of sand, scarce a mile round.</p> + +<p>I did not anchor here nor send my boat ashore; there being no appearance +of getting anything on that spot of sand besides birds that were good for +little: though had I not been in haste I would have taken some of them. +So I made the best of my way to Timor; and on the 11th in the afternoon +we saw 10 small land-birds, about the bigness of larks, that flew away +north-west. The 13th we saw a great many sea-snakes. One of these, of +which I saw great numbers and variety in this voyage, was large, and all +black: I never saw such another for his colour.</p> + +<p>THE AUTHOR'S ARRIVAL AT THE ISLAND TIMOR.</p> + +<p>We had now for some days small gales from the south-south-west to the +north-north-west, and the sky still more cloudy especially in the +mornings and evenings. The 14th it looked very black in the north-west +all the day; and a little before sunset we saw, to our great joy, the +tops of the high mountains of Timor, peeping out of the clouds which had +before covered them as they did still the lower parts.</p> + +<p>We were now running directly towards the middle of the island on the +south side: but I was in some doubt whether I should run down alongshore +on this south side towards the east end; or pass about the west end, and +so range along on the north side, and go that way towards the east end: +but as the winds were now westerly I thought it best to keep on the south +side, till I should see how the weather would prove; for, as the island +lies, if the westerly winds continued and grew tempestuous I should be +under the lee of it and have smooth water, and so could go alongshore +more safely and easily on this south side: I could sooner also run to the +east end where there is the best shelter, as being still more under the +lee of the island when those winds blow. Or if, on the other side, the +winds should come about again to the eastward, I could but turn back +again (as I did afterwards) and passing about the west end, could there +prosecute my search on the north side of the island for water, or +inhabitants, or a good harbour, or whatever might be useful to me. For +both sides of the island were hitherto alike to me, being wholly +unacquainted here; only as I had seen it at a distance in my former +voyage.</p> + +<p>SEARCH FOR FRESH WATER ON THE SOUTH SIDE OF THE ISLAND, IN VAIN.</p> + +<p>I had heard also that there were both Dutch and Portuguese settlements on +this island; but whereabouts I knew not: however I was resolved to search +about till I found either one of these settlements, or water in some +other place.</p> + +<p>It was now almost night and I did not care to run near the land in the +dark, but clapped on a wind and stood off and on till the next morning, +being September 15th, when I steered in for the island, which now +appeared very plain, being high, double and treble land, very remarkable, +on whatever side you view it. See a sight of it in 2 parts, Table 5 +Number 1. At 3 in the afternoon we anchored in 14 fathom, soft black oasy +ground, about a mile from the shore. See 2 sights more of the coast in +Table 5 Numbers 2 and 3, and the island itself in the particular map; +which I have here inserted to show the course of the voyage from hence to +the eastward; as the general map shows the course of the whole voyage. +But in making the particular map I chose to begin only with Timor, that I +might not, by extending it too far, be forced to contract the scale too +much among the islands, etc., of the New Guinea coast, which I chiefly +designed it for.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="dampier-nh2-03"></a><img alt="" src="images/dampier-nh2-03.jpg"></p> +<p><b>TABLE 5. TIMOR.</b></p> +</center> + +<p>The land by the sea on this south side is low and sandy, and full of tall +straight-bodied trees like pines, for about 200 yards inwards from the +shore. Beyond that, further in towards the mountains, for a breadth of +about 3 miles more or less, there is a tract of swampy mangrove land +which runs all along between the sandy land of the shore on one side of +it, and the feet of the mountains on the other. And this low mangrove +land is overflown every tide of flood by the water that flows into it +through several mouths or openings in the outer sandy skirt against the +sea. We came to an anchor right against one of these openings; and +presently I went in my boat to search for fresh water, or get speech of +the natives; for we saw smokes, houses, and plantations against the sides +of the mountains, not far from us. It was ebbing water before we got +ashore, though the water was still high enough to float us in without any +great trouble. After we were within the mouth we found a large salt-water +lake which we hoped might bring us up through the mangroves to the fast +land: but before we went further I went ashore on the sandy land by the +seaside, and looked about me; but saw there no sign of fresh water. +Within the sandy bank the water forms a large lake: going therefore into +the boat again we rowed up the lake towards the firm land, where no doubt +there was fresh water, could we come at it. We found many branches of the +lake entering within the mangrove land but not beyond it. Of these we +left some on the right hand and some on the left, still keeping in the +biggest channel; with still grew smaller, and at last so narrow that we +could go no farther, ending among the swamps and mangroves. We were then +within a mile of some houses of the Indian inhabitants and the firm land +by the sides of the hills: but the mangroves thus stopping our way, we +returned as we came: but it was almost dark before we reached the mouth +of the creek. It was with much ado that we got out of it again; for it +was now low-water, and there went a rough short sea on the bar; which +however we passed over without any damage and went aboard.</p> + +<p>The next morning at five we weighed and stood alongshore to the eastward, +making use of the sea and land-breezes. We found the seabreezes here from +the south-south-east to the south-south-west, the land-breezes from the +north to the north-east. We coasted along about 20 leagues and found it +all a straight, bold, even shore, without points, creeks or inlets for a +ship: and there is no anchoring till within a mile or a mile and a half +of the shore. We saw scarce any opening fit for our boats; and the fast +land was still barricaded with mangroves; so that here was no hope to get +water; nor was it likely that there should be hereabouts any European +settlement, since there was no sign of a harbour.</p> + +<p>FAULT OF THE CHARTS.</p> + +<p>The land appeared pleasant enough to the eye: for the sides and tops of +the mountains were clothed with woods mixed with savannahs; and there was +a plantation of the Indian natives, where we saw the coconuts growing, +and could have been glad to have come at some of them. In the chart I had +with me a shoal was laid down hereabouts; but I saw nothing of it, going, +or coming; and so have taken no notice of it in my map.</p> + +<p>Weary of running thus fruitlessly along the south side of the island to +the eastward I resolved to return the way I came; and compassing the west +end of the island, make a search along the north side of it. The rather, +because the north-north-west monsoon, which I had designed to be +sheltered from by coming the way I did, did not seem to be near at hand, +as the ordinary season of them required; but on the contrary I found the +winds returning again to the south-eastward; and the weather was fair, +and seemed likely to hold so; and consequently the north-north-west +monsoon was not like to come in yet. I considered therefore that by going +to the north side of the island I should there have the smooth water, as +being the lee side as the winds now were; and hoped to have better riding +at anchor or landing on that side, than I could expect here, where the +shore was so lined with mangroves.</p> + +<p>Accordingly the 18th about noon I altered my course and steered back +again towards the south-west end of the island. This day we struck a +dolphin; and the next day saw two more but struck none: we also saw a +whale.</p> + +<p>THE ISLAND ROTI.</p> + +<p>In the evening we saw the island Roti, and another island to the south of +it, not seen in my map; both lying near the south-west end of Timor. On +both these islands we saw smokes by day, and fires by night, as we had +seen on Timor ever since we fell in with it. I was told afterwards by the +Portuguese that they had sugar-works on the island Roti; but I knew +nothing of that now; and the coast appearing generally dry and barren, +only here and there a spot of trees, I did not attempt anchoring there +but stood over again to the Timor coast.</p> + +<p>A PASSAGE BETWEEN THE ISLANDS TIMOR AND ANABAO. FAULT OF THE CHARTS.</p> + +<p>September the 21st in the morning, being near Timor, I saw a pretty large +opening which immediately I entered with my ship, sounding as I went in: +but had no ground till I came within the east point of the mouth of the +opening, where I anchored in 9 fathom, a league from the shore. The +distance from the east side to the west side of this opening was about 5 +leagues. But, whereas I thought this was only an inlet or large sound +that ran a great way into the island Timor, I found afterwards that it +was a passage between the west end of Timor and another small island +called Anamabao or Anabao: into which mistake I was led by my sea-chart, +which represented both sides of the opening as parts of the same coast, +and called all of it Timor: see all this rectified, and a view of the +whole passage as I found it, in a small map I have made of it. Table 6 +Number 1.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="dampier-nh2-04"></a><img alt="" src="images/dampier-nh2-04.jpg"></p> +<p><b>TABLE 6. TIMOR.</b></p> +</center> + +<p>I designed to sail into this opening till I should come to firm land, for +the shore was all set thick with mangroves here by the sea, on each side; +which were very green, as were also other trees more within-land. We had +now but little wind; therefore I sent my boat away, to sound and to let +me know by signs what depth of water they met with, if under 8 fathom; +but if more I ordered them to go on and make no signs. At 11 that +morning, having a pretty fresh gale, I weighed and made sail after my +boat; but edged over more to the west shore, because I saw many smaller +openings there, and was in hopes to find a good harbour where I might +secure the ship; for then I could with more safety send my boats to seek +for fresh water. I had not sailed far before the wind came to the +south-east and blew so strong that I could not with safety venture nearer +that side, it being a lee shore. Besides, my boat was on the east side of +the Timor coast; for the other was, as I found afterwards, the Anabao +shore; and the great opening I was now in was the strait between that +island and Timor; towards which I now tacked and stood over. Taking up my +boat therefore I ran under the Timor side, and at 3 o'clock anchored in +29 fathom, half a mile from the shore. That part of the south-west point +of Timor where we anchored in the morning bore now south by west, +distance 3 leagues: and another point of the island bore +north-north-east, distance 2 leagues.</p> + +<p>A DUTCH FORT, CALLED CONCORDIA. THEIR SUSPICION OF THE AUTHOR.</p> + +<p>Not long after, we saw a sloop coming about the point last mentioned, +with Dutch colours; which I found, upon sending my boat aboard, belonged +to a Dutch fort (the only one they have in Timor) about 5 leagues from +hence, called Concordia. The governor of the fort was in the sloop, and +about 40 soldiers with him. He appeared to be somewhat surprised at our +coming this way; which it seems is a passage scarce known to any but +themselves; as he told the men I sent to him in my boat. Neither did he +seem willing that we should come near their fort for water. He said also +that he did not know of any water on all that part of the island, but +only at the fort; and that the natives would kill us if they met us +ashore. By the small arms my men carried with them in the boat they took +us to be pirates, and would not easily believe the account my men gave +them of what we were and whence we came. They said that about 2 years +before this there had been a stout ship of French pirates here; and that +after having been suffered to water, and to refresh themselves, and been +kindly used, they had on a sudden gone among the Indians, subjects of the +fort, and plundered them and burnt their houses. And the Portuguese here +told us afterwards that those pirates, whom they also had entertained, +had burnt their houses and had taken the Dutch fort (though the Dutch +cared not to own so much) and had driven the governor and factory among +the wild Indians their enemies. The Dutch told my men further that they +could not but think we had of several nations (as is usual with pirate +vessels) in our ship and particularly some Dutchmen, though all the +discourse was in French (for I had not one who could speak Dutch) or +else, since the common charts make no passage between Timor and Anabao, +but lay down both as one island; they said they suspected we had +plundered some Dutch ship of their particular charts, which they are +forbid to part with.</p> + +<p>With these jealousies the sloop returned towards their fort, and my boat +came back with this news to me: but I was not discouraged at this news; +not doubting but I should persuade them better when I should come to talk +with them. So the next morning I weighed and stood towards the fort. The +winds were somewhat against us so that we could not go very fast, being +obliged to tack 2 or 3 times: and, coming near the farther end of the +passage between Timor and Anabao, we saw many houses on each side not far +from the sea, and several boats lying by the shore. The land on both +sides was pretty high, appearing very dry and of a reddish colour, but +highest on the Timor side. The trees on either side were but small, the +woods thin, and in many places the trees were dry and withered.</p> + +<p>THE ISLAND ANABAO DESCRIBED.</p> + +<p>The island Anamabao, or Anabao, is not very big, not exceeding 10 leagues +in length and 4 in breadth; yet it has 2 kingdoms in it, namely that of +Anamabao on the east side towards Timor and the north-east end; and that +of Anabao, which contains the south-west end and the west side of the +island; but I known not which of them is biggest. The natives of both are +of the Indian kind, of a swarthy copper-colour, with black lank hair. +Those of Anamabao are in league with the Dutch, as these afterwards told +me, and with the natives of the kingdom of Kupang in Timor, over against +them, in which the Dutch fort Concordia stands: but they are said to be +inveterate enemies to their neighbours of Anabao. Those of Anabao, +besides managing their small plantations of roots and a few coconuts, do +fish, strike turtle, and hunt buffaloes, killing them with swords, darts, +or lances. But I know not how they get their iron; I suppose by traffic +with the Dutch or Portuguese, who send now and then a sloop and trade +thither, but well armed; for the natives would kill them, could they +surprise them. They go always armed themselves; and when they go +a-fishing or a-hunting they spend 4 or 5 days or more in ranging about +before they return to their habitation. We often saw them after this at +these employments; but they would not come near us. The fish or flesh +that they take, besides what serves for present spending, they dry on a +barbecue or wooden grate, standing pretty high over the fire, and so +carry it home when they return. We came sometimes afterwards to the +places where they had meat thus a-drying, but did not touch any of it.</p> + +<p>But to proceed: I did not think to stop anywhere till I came near the +fort; which yet I did not see: but, coming to the end of this passage, I +found that if I went any farther I should be open again to the sea. I +therefore stood in close to the shore on the east side, and anchored in 4 +fathom water, sandy ground; a point of land still hindering me from +seeing the fort. But I sent my boat to look about for it; and in a short +time she returned, and my men told me they saw the fort, but did not go +near it; and that it was not above 4 or 5 miles from hence. It being now +late I would not send my boat thither till the next morning: meanwhile +about 2 or 300 Indians, neighbours of the fort, and sent probably from +thence, came to the sandy bay just against the ship; where they stayed +all night, and made good fires. They were armed with lances, swords and +targets, and made a great noise all the night: we thought it was to scare +us from landing, should we attempt it: but we took little notice of them.</p> + +<p>THE AUTHOR'S PARLEY WITH THE GOVERNOR OF THE DUTCH FORT. THEY, WITH GREAT +DIFFICULTY, OBTAIN LEAVE TO WATER.</p> + +<p>The next morning, being September the 23rd, I sent my clerk ashore in my +pinnace to the governor to satisfy him that we were Englishmen: and in +the King's ship, and to ask water of him; sending a young man with him +who spoke French. My clerk was with the governor pretty early; and in +answer to his queries about me, and my business in these parts, told him +that I had the King of England's commission, and desired to speak with +him. He beckoned to my clerk to come ashore; but as soon as he saw some +small arms in the stern-sheets of the boat he commanded him into the boat +again, and would have him be gone. My clerk solicited him that he would +allow him to speak with him; and at last the governor consented that he +should come ashore, and sent his lieutenant and 3 merchants with a guard +of about a hundred of the native Indians to receive him. My clerk said +that we were in much want of water, and hoped they would allow us to come +to their watering-place and fill. But the governor replied that he had +orders not to supply any ships but their own East India Company; neither +must they allow any Europeans to come the way that we came; and wondered +how we durst come near their fort. My clerk answered him that, had we +been enemies, we must have come ashore among them for water: but, said +the governor, you are come to inspect into our trade and strength; and I +will have you therefore be gone with all speed. My clerk answered him +that I had no such design but, without coming nearer them, would be +contented if the governor would send water on board where we lay, about 2 +leagues from the fort; and that I would make any reasonable satisfaction +for it. The governor said that we should have what water we wanted, +provided we came no nearer with the ship: and ordered that as soon as we +pleased we should send our boat full of empty casks, and come to an +anchor with it off the fort, till he sent slaves to bring the casks +ashore and fill them; for that none of our men must come ashore. The same +afternoon I sent up my boat as he had directed with an officer and a +present of some beer for the governor; which he would not accept of, but +sent me off about a ton of water.</p> + +<p>On the 24th in the morning I sent the same officer again in my boat; and +about noon the boat returned again with the two principal merchants of +the factory and the lieutenant of the fort; for whose security they had +kept my officer and one of my boat's crew as hostages, confining them to +the governor's garden all the time: for they were very shy of trusting +any of them to go into their fort, as my officer said: yet afterwards +they were not shy of our company; and I found that my officer maliciously +endeavoured to make them shy of me. In the evening I gave the Dutch +officers that came aboard the best entertainment I could; and, bestowing +some presents on them, sent them back very well pleased; and my officer +and the other man were returned to me. Next morning I sent my boat ashore +again with the same officer; who brought me word from the governor that +we must pay 4 Spanish dollars for every boat-load of water: but in this +he spoke falsely, as I understood afterwards from the governor himself +and all his officers, who protested to me that no such price was +demanded, but left me to give the slaves what I pleased for their labour: +the governor being already better satisfied about me than when my clerk +spoke to him, or than that officer I sent last would have caused him to +be: for the governor being a civil, genteel, and sensible man, was +offended at the officer for his being so industrious to misrepresent me. +I received from the governor a little lamb, very fat; and I sent him 2 of +the guinea-hens that I brought from St. Jago, of which there were none +here.</p> + +<p>I had now 11 buts of water on board, having taken in 7 here, which I +would have paid for but that at present I was afraid to send my boat +ashore again; for my officer told me, among other of his inventions, that +there were more guns mounted in the fort than when we first came; and +that he did not see the gentlemen that were aboard the day before; +intimating as if they were shy of us; and that the governor was very +rough with him; and I, not knowing to the contrary at present, consulted +with my other officers what was best to be done; for by this the governor +should seem to design to quarrel with us. All my other officers thought +it natural to infer so much, and that it was not safe to send the boat +ashore any more, lest it should be seized on; but that it was best to go +away and seek more water where we could find it. For having now (as I +said) 11 buts aboard; and the land being promising this way, I did not +doubt finding water in a short time. But my officer who occasioned these +fears in us by his own forgeries was himself for going no further; having +a mind, as far as I could perceive, to make everything in the voyage, to +which he showed himself averse, seem as cross and discouraging to my men +as possible, that he might hasten our return; being very negligent and +backward in most businesses I had occasion to employ him in; doing +nothing well or willingly, though I did all I could to win him to it. He +was also industrious to stir up the seamen to mutiny; telling them, among +other things, that any Dutch ship might lawfully take us in these seas; +but I knew better, and avoided everything that could give just offence.</p> + +<p>KUPANG BAY.</p> + +<p>The rest of my officers therefore being resolved to go from hence, and +having bought some fish of some Anamabeans who, seeing our ship, came +purposely to sell some, passing to and fro every day, I sailed away on +the 26th about 5 in the afternoon. We passed along between a small low +sandy island (over against the fort) full of bays and pretty high trees; +sounding as we went along, and had from 25 to 35 fathom, oasy ground. See +the little map of this passage Table 6 Number 1.</p> + +<p>The 27th in the morning we anchored in the middle of the bay, called +Kupang Bay, in 12 fathom, soft oaze, about 4 leagues above the Dutch +fort. Their sloop was riding by the fort, and in the night fired a gun; +but for what reason I know not, and the governor said afterwards it was +the skipper's own doing, without his order. Presently after we had +anchored I went in the pinnace to search about the bay for water but +found none. Then, returning aboard, I weighed, and ran down to the north +entrance of the bay, and at 7 in the evening anchored again in 37 fathom, +soft oaze, close by the sandy island, and about 4 leagues from the Dutch +fort. The 28th I sent both my boats ashore on the sandy island to cut +wood; and by noon they both came back laden. In the afternoon I sent my +pinnace ashore on the north coast or point of Kupang Bay, which is called +Babao. Late in the night they returned, and told me that they saw great +tracks of buffaloes there, but none of the buffaloes themselves; neither +did they find any fresh water. They also saw some green-turtle in the sea +and one alligator.</p> + +<p>COASTING ALONG THE NORTH SIDE OF TIMOR.</p> + +<p>The 29th I went out of Kupang Bay, designing to coast it alongshore on +the north side of Timor to the eastward; as well to seek for water, as +also to acquaint myself with the island, and to search for the Portuguese +settlements; which we were informed were about forty leagues to the +eastward of this place.</p> + +<p>We coasted alongshore with land and seabreezes. The land by the shore was +of a moderate height, with high and very remarkable hills farther within +the country; their sides all spotted with woods and savannahs. But these +on the mountains' sides appeared of a rusty colour, not so pleasant and +flourishing as those that we saw on the south side of the island; for the +trees seemed to be small and withering; and the grass in the savannahs +also looked dry, as if it wanted moisture. But in the valleys, and by the +sea side, the trees looked here also more green. Yet we saw no good +anchoring-place, or opening, that gave us any encouragement to put in; +till the 30th day in the afternoon.</p> + +<p>We were then running alongshore, at about 4 leagues distance, with a +moderate seabreeze; when we opened a pretty deep bay which appeared to be +a good road to anchor in. There were two large valleys and one smaller +one which, descending from the mountains, came all into one valley by the +seaside against this bay, which was full of tall green trees. I presently +stood in with the ship till within two leagues of the shore; and then +sent in my pinnace, commanded by my chief mate, whose great care, +fidelity, and diligence I was well assured of; ordering him to seek for +fresh water; and if he found any to sound the bay and bring me word what +anchoring there was, and to make haste aboard.</p> + +<p>As soon as they were gone I stood off a little and lay by. The day was +now far spent; and therefore it was late before they got ashore with the +boat; so that they did not come aboard again that night. Which I was much +concerned at; because in the evening, when the seabreeze was done and the +weather calm, I perceived the ship to drive back again to the westward. I +was not yet acquainted with the tides here; for I had hitherto met with +no strong tides about the island, and scarce any running in a stream, to +set me alongshore either way. But after this time I had pretty much of +them; and found at present the flood set to the eastward, and the ebb to +the westward. The ebb (with which I was now carried) sets very strong and +runs 8 or 9 hours. The flood runs but weak, and at most lasts not above 4 +hours; and this too is perceived only near the shore; where, checking the +ebb, it swells the seas and makes the water rise in the bays and rivers 8 +or 9 foot. I was afterwards credibly informed by some Portuguese that the +current runs always to the westward in the mid-channel between this +island and those that face it in a range to the north of it, namely +Misicomba (or Omba) Pintare, Laubana, Ende, etc.</p> + +<p>THEY FIND WATER AND AN ANCHORING-PLACE.</p> + +<p>We were driven 4 leagues back again, and took particular notice of a +point of land that looked like Flamborough Head, when we were either to +the east or west of it; and near the shore it appeared like an island. +Four or five leagues to the east of this point is another very remarkable +bluff point which is on the west side of the bay that my boat was in. See +two sights of this land, Table 6 Numbers 2 and 3. We could not stem the +tide till about 3 o'clock in the afternoon; when, the tide running with +us, we soon got abreast of the bay, and then saw a small island to the +eastward of us. See a sight of it Table 6 Number 4. About 6 we anchored +in the bottom of the bay in 25 fathom, soft oaze, half a mile from the +shore.</p> + +<p>I made many false fires in the night, and now and then fired a gun that +my boat might find me; but to no purpose. In the morning I found myself +driven again by the tide of ebb 3 or 4 leagues to the westward of the +place where I left my boat. I had several men looking out for her; but +could not get sight of her: besides I continued still driving to the +westward; for we had but little wind, and that against us. But by 10 +o'clock in the morning we had the comfort of seeing the boat; and at 11 +she came aboard, bringing 2 barrecoes of very good water.</p> + +<p>A DESCRIPTION OF A SMALL ISLAND, SEVEN LEAGUES EAST FROM THE WATERING BAY.</p> + +<p>The mate told me there was good anchoring close by the watering-place; +but that there ran a very strong tide, which near the shore made several +races, so that they found much danger in getting ashore, and were afraid +to come off again in the night because of the ripplings the tide made.</p> + +<p>We had now the seabreeze, and steered away for this bay; but could hardly +stem the tide till about 3 in the afternoon; when, the tide being turned +with us, we went along briskly, and about 6 anchored in the bay, in 25 +fathom, soft oaze, half a mile from the shore.</p> + +<p>The next morning I went ashore to fill water, and before night sent +aboard 8 tons. We filled it out of a large pond within 50 paces of the +sea. It looked pale but was very good, and boiled peas well. I saw the +track of an alligator here. Not far from the pond we found the rudder of +a Malayan proa, 3 great jars in a small shed set up against a tree, and a +barbecue whereon there had been fish and flesh of buffaloes dressed, the +bones lying but a little from it.</p> + +<p>In 3 days we filled about twenty-six tun of water, and then had on board +about 30 tun in all. The 2 following days we spent in fishing with the +seine, and the first morning caught as many as served all my ship's +company: but afterwards we had not so good success. The rest of my men +which could be spared from the ship I sent out; some with the carpenter's +mate to cut timber for my boats, etc. These went always guarded with 3 or +4 armed men to secure them: I showed them what wood was fitting to cut +for our use, especially the calabash and maho; I showed them always the +manner of stripping the maho-bark, and of making therewith thread, twine, +ropes, etc. Others were sent out a-fowling; who brought home pigeons, +parrots, cockatoos, etc. I was always with one party or other myself; +especially with the carpenters, to hasten them to get what they could, +that we might be gone from hence.</p> + +<p>Our water being full, I sailed from hence October the 6th about 4 in the +afternoon, designing to coast alongshore to the eastward, till I came to +the Portuguese settlements. By the next morning we were driven 3 or 4 +leagues to the west of the bay; but in the afternoon, having a faint +seabreeze, we got again abreast of it. It was the 11th day at noon before +we got as far as the small island before mentioned, which lies about 7 +leagues to the east of the watering-bay: for what we gained in the +afternoon by the benefit of the seabreezes we lost again in the evenings +and mornings, while it was calm, in the interval of the breezes. But this +day, the seabreeze blowing fresher than ordinary, we passed by the island +and run before night about 7 leagues to the east of it.</p> + +<p>This island is not half a mile long, and not above 100 yards in breadth, +and looked just like a barn when we were by it: it is pretty high, and +may be seen from a ship's topmast-head about 10 leagues. The top, and +part of the sides, are covered with trees, and it is about 3 leagues from +Timor; it is about midway between the watering-place and the Portuguese +first and main settlement by the shore.</p> + +<p>LAPHAO BAY. HOW THE AUTHOR WAS TREATED BY THE PORTUGUESE THERE.</p> + +<p>In the night we were again driven back toward the island, 3 leagues: but +the 12th day, having a pretty brisk seabreeze, we coasted alongshore; +and, seeing a great many houses by the sea, I stood in with my ship till +I was within 2 miles of them, and then sent in my boat and lay by till it +returned. I sent an officer to command the boat; and a Portuguese seaman, +that I brought from Brazil, to speak with the men that we saw on the bay; +there being a great many of them, both foot and horse. I could not tell +what officer there might be amongst them; but I ordered my officer to +tell the chief of them that we were English, and came hither for +refreshment. As soon as the boat came ashore and the inhabitants were +informed who we were they were very glad, and sent me word that I was +welcome, and should have anything that the island afforded; and that I +must run a little farther about a small point, where I should see more +houses; and that the men would stand on the bay, right against the place +where I must anchor. With this news the boat immediately returned; adding +withal that the governor lived about 7 miles up in the country; and that +the chief person here was a lieutenant, who desired me, as soon as the +ship was at anchor, to send ashore one of my officers to go to the +governor and certify him of our arrival. I presently made sail towards +the anchoring-place, and at 5 o'clock anchored in Laphao Bay in 20 +fathom, soft oaze, over against the town. A description of which, and of +the Portuguese settlement there, shall be given in the following chapter.</p> + +<p>As soon as I came to anchor I sent my boat ashore with my second mate, to +go to the governor. The lieutenant that lived here had provided horses +and guides for him, and sent 4 soldiers with him for his guard, and, +while he was absent, treated my men with arack at his own house, where he +and some others of the townsmen showed them many broad thin pieces of +gold; telling them that they had plenty of that metal and would willingly +traffic with them for any sort of European commodities. About 11 o'clock +my mate returned on board and told me he had been in the country, and was +kindly received by the gentleman he went to wait upon; who said we were +welcome, and should have anything the island afforded; and that he was +not himself the governor, but only a deputy. He asked why we did not +salute their fort when we anchored; my mate answered that we saw no +colours flying, and therefore did not know there was any fort till he +came ashore and saw the guns; and if we had known that there was a fort +yet that we could not have given any salute till we knew that they would +answer it with the like number of guns. The deputy said it was very well; +and that he had but little powder; and therefore would gladly buy some of +us, if we had any to spare; which my mate told him we had not.</p> + +<p>The 13th the deputy sent me aboard a present of 2 young buffaloes, 6 +goats, 4 kids, 140 coconuts, 300 ripe mangoes, and 6 ripe jacks. This was +all very acceptable; and all the time we lay here we had fresh provision, +and plenty of fruits; so that those of my men that were sick of the +scurvy soon recovered and grew lusty. I stayed here till the 22nd, went +ashore several times, and once purposely to see the deputy, who came out +of the country also on purpose to see and talk with me. And then indeed +there were guns fired for salutes, both aboard my ship and at the fort. +Our interview was in a small church which was filled with the better sort +of people; her poorer sort thronging on the outside, and looking in upon +us: for the church had no wall but at the east end; the sides and the +west end being open, saving only that it had boards about 3 or 4 foot +high from the ground. I saw but 2 white men among them all; one was a +padre that came along with the lieutenant; the other was an inhabitant of +the town. The rest were all copper-coloured, with black lank hair. I +stayed there about 2 hours, and we spoke to each other by an interpreter. +I asked particularly about the seasons of the year, and when they +expected the north-north-west monsoon. The deputy told me that they +expected the wind to shift every moment; and that some years the +north-north-west monsoon set in in September, but never failed to come in +October; and for that reason desired me to make what haste I could from +hence; for it was impossible to ride here when those winds came.</p> + +<p>DESIGNS OF MAKING FURTHER SEARCHES UPON AND ABOUT THE ISLAND. PORT +SESIAL.</p> + +<p>I asked him if there was no harbour hereabouts where I might be secured +from the fury of these winds at their first coming. He told me that the +best harbour in the island was at a place called Babao on the north side +of Kupang Bay; that there were no inhabitants there, but plenty of +buffaloes in the woods, and abundance of fish in the sea; that there was +also fresh water: that there was another place, called port Sesial, about +20 leagues to the eastward of Laphao; that there was a river of fresh +water there, and plenty of fish, but no inhabitants: yet that if I would +go thither he would send people with hogs, goats and buffaloes, to truck +with me for such commodities as I had to dispose of.</p> + +<p>I was afterwards told that on the east end of the island Ende there was +also a very good harbour, and a Portuguese town; that there was great +plenty of refreshments for my men, and dammer for my ship; that the +governor or chief of that place was called Captain More; that he was a +very courteous gentleman, and would be very glad to entertain an English +ship there; and if I designed to go thither, I might have pilots here +that would be willing to carry me, if I could get the lieutenant's +consent. That it was dangerous going thither without a pilot, by reason +of the violent tides that run between the islands Ende and Solor. I was +told also that at the island Solor there were a great many Dutchmen +banished from other places for certain crimes. I was willing enough to go +thither, as well to secure my ship in a good harbour, where I might +careen her (there being dammer also, which I could not get here, to make +use of instead of pitch, which I now wanted) and where I might still be +refreshing my men and supporting them in order to my further discoveries; +as also to inform myself more particularly concerning these places as yet +so little known to us. Accordingly I accepted the offer of a pilot and +two gentlemen of the town, to go with me to Larentuca on the island Ende: +and they were to come on board my ship the night before I sailed. But I +was hindered of this design by some of my officers who had here also been +very busy in doing me all the injury they could underhand.</p> + +<p>But to proceed. While I stayed here I went ashore every day and my men +took there turns to go ashore and traffic for what they had occasion for; +and were now all very well again: and to keep themselves in heart every +man bought some rice, more or less, to recruit them after our former +fatigues. Besides, I ordered the purser to buy some for them, to serve +them instead of peas which were now almost spent. I filled up my +water-casks again here, and cut more wood; and sent a present to the +lieutenant, Alexis Mendosa, designing to be gone; for while I lay here we +had some tornadoes and rain, and the sky in the north-west looked very +black mornings and evenings, with lightning all night from that quarter, +which made me very uneasy and desirous to depart hence; because this road +lay exposed to the north-north-west and north winds, which were now daily +expected and which are commonly so violent that it is impossible for any +ship to ride them out: yet on the other hand it was absolutely necessary +for me to spend about 2 months time longer in some place hereabouts +before I could prosecute my voyage farther to the eastward; for reasons +which I shall give hereafter in its proper place in the ensuing +discourse. When therefore I sent the present to the governor I desired to +have a pilot to Larentuca on the island Ende; where I desired to spend +the time I had to spare. He now sent me word that he could not well do +it, but would send me a letter to Port Sesial for the natives, who would +come to me there and supply me with what provision they had.</p> + +<p>I stayed 3 days in hopes yet to get a pilot for Larentuca, or at least +the letter from the governor to Port Sesial. But seeing neither I sailed +from hence the 22nd of October, coasting to the eastward, designing for +Sesial; and before night was about 10 leagues to the east of Laphao. I +kept about 3 leagues offshore and my boat ranged along close by the +shore, looking into every bay and cove; and at night returned on board. +The next morning, being 3 or 4 leagues farther to the eastward, I sent my +boat ashore again to find Sesial. At noon they returned and told me they +had been at Sesial, as they guessed; that there were two Portuguese barks +in the port who threatened to fire at them but did not; telling them this +was Porto del Roy de Portugal. They saw also another bark which ran and +anchored close by the shore, and the men ran all away for fear: but our +men calling to them in Portuguese, they at last came to them, and told +them that Sesial was the place which they came from, where the 2 barks +lay: had not these men told them they could not have known it to be a +port, it being only a little bad cove, lying open to the north; having 2 +ledges of rocks at its entrance, one on each side; and a channel between, +which was so narrow that it would not be safe for us to go in. However I +stood in with the ship, to be better satisfied; and when I came near it +found it answer my men's description. I lay by a while to consider what I +had best do; for my design was to lie in a place where I might get fresh +provisions if I could: for, though my men were again pretty well +recruited, and those that had been sick of the scurvy were well again, +yet I designed if possible to refresh them as much and as long as I could +before I went farther. Besides my ship wanted cleaning; and I was +resolved to clean her if possible.</p> + +<p>RETURN TO BABAO IN KUPANG BAY.</p> + +<p>At last after much consideration I thought it safer to go away again for +Babao; and accordingly stood to the westward. We were now about 60 +leagues to the east of Babao. The coast is bold all the way, having no +shoals, and but one island which I saw and described coming to the +eastward. The land in the country is very mountainous; but there are some +large valleys towards the east end. Both the mountains and valleys on +this side are barren; some wholly so; and none of them appear so pleasant +as the place where I watered. It was the 23rd day in the evening when I +stood back again for Babao. We had but small sea and land-breezes. On the +27th we came into Kupang Bay; and the next day, having sounded Babao +road, I ran in and came to an anchor there, in 20 fathom, soft oaze, 3 +mile from the shore. One reason, as I said before, of my coming hither, +was to ride secure and to clean my ship's bottom; as also to endeavour by +fishing and hunting of buffaloes to refresh my men and save my salt +provision. It was like to be some time before I could clean my ship +because I wanted a great many necessaries, especially a vessel to careen +by. I had a long-boat in a frame that I brought out of England, by which +I might have made a shift to do it; but my carpenter was uncapable to set +her up. Besides, by the time the ship's sides were caulked, my pitch was +almost spent; which was all owing to the carpenter's wilful waste and +ignorance; so that I had nothing to lay on upon the ship's bottom. But +instead of this I intended to make lime here, which with oil would have +made a good coat for her. Indeed had it been advisable I would have gone +in between Cross Island and Timor, and have hauled my ship ashore; for +there was a very convenient place to do it in; but, my ship being sharp, +I did not dare to do it: besides, I must have taken everything out of +her; and I had neither boats to get my things ashore nor hands to look +after them when they were there; for my men would have been all employed; +and, though here are no Indians living near, yet they come hither in +companies when ships are here, on purpose to do any mischief they can to +them; and it was not above 2 years since a Portuguese ship riding here, +and sending her boat for water to one of the galleys, the men were all +killed by the Indians. But to secure my men I never suffered them to go +ashore unarmed; and while some were at work others stood to guard them.</p> + +<p>We lay in this place from October the 28th till December the 12th. In +which time we made very good lime with shells, of which here are plenty. +We cut palmetto leaves to burn the ship's sides; and, giving her as good +a heel as we could, we burned her sides and paid them with lime and water +for want of oil to mix with it. This stuck on about 2 months where it was +well burned. We did not want fresh provisions all the time we lay here, +either of fish or flesh. For there were fair sandy bays on the point of +Babao, where in 2 or 3 hours in a morning we used with our seine to drag +ashore as much fish as we could eat all the day; and for a change of diet +when we were weary of fish I sent 10 or 11 men a-hunting for buffaloes; +who never came empty home. They went ashore in the evening or early in +the morning, and before noon always returned with their burdens of +buffalo, enough to suffice us 2 days; by which time we began to long for +fish again.</p> + +<p>THE AUTHOR'S ENTERTAINMENT AT THE FORT OF CONCORDIA.</p> + +<p>On the 11th of November the governor of Concordia sent one of his +officers to us to know who we were. For I had not sent thither since I +came to anchor last here. When the officer came aboard he asked me why we +fired so many guns the 4th and 5th days (which we had done in honour of +King William and in memory of the deliverance from the powder plot) I +told him the occasion of it; and he replied that they were in some fear +at the fort that we had been Portuguese, and that we were coming with +soldiers to take their fort; he asked me also why I did not stay and fill +my water at their fort before I went away from thence? I told him the +reason of it and withal offered him money; bidding him take what he +thought reasonable: he took none and said he was sorry there had been +such a misunderstanding between us; and knew that the governor would be +much concerned at it. After a short stay he went ashore; and the next +morning came aboard again, and told me the governor desired me to come +ashore to the fort and dine with him; and if I doubted anything he would +stay aboard till I returned. I told him I had no reason to mistrust +anything against me, and would go ashore with him; so I took my clerk and +my gunner and went ashore in my pinnace: the gunner spoke very good +French, and therefore I took him to be my interpreter because the +governor speaks French: he was an honest man, and I found him always +diligent and obedient. It was pretty late in the afternoon before we came +ashore; so that we had but little time with the governor. He seemed to be +much dissatisfied at the report my officer had made to me (of which I +have before given an account) and said it was false, neither would he now +take any money of me; but told me I was welcome; as indeed I found by +what he provided. For there was plenty of very good victuals, and well +dressed; and the linen was white and clean; and all the dishes and plates +of silver or fine china. I did not meet anywhere with a better +entertainment while I was abroad; nor with so much decency and order. Our +liquor was wine, beer, toddy, or water, which we liked best after dinner. +He showed me some drawers full of shells which were the strangest and +most curious that I had ever seen. He told me before I went away that he +could not supply me with any naval stores, but if I wanted any fresh +provision he would supply me with what I had occasion for. I thanked him +and told him I would send my boat for some goats and hogs, though +afterwards on second thoughts I did not do it: for it was a great way +from the place where we lay to the fort; and I could not tell what +mischief might befall any of my men when there from the natives; +especially if encouraged by the Dutch, who are enemies to all Europeans +but such as are under their own government. Therefore I chose rather to +fish and hunt for provisions than to be beholden to the Dutch and pay +dearly for it too.</p> + +<p>HIS STAY SEVEN WEEKS AT BABAO.</p> + +<p>We found here, as I said before, plenty of game; so that all the time we +lay at this place we spent none or very little of our salt provisions; +having fish or fresh buffalo every day. We lay here 7 weeks; and, +although the north-north-west monsoon was every day expected when I was +at Laphao, yet it was not come, so that if I had prosecuted my voyage to +the eastward without staying here it had been but to little advantage. +For if I had gone out and beaten against the wind a whole month I should +not have got far; it may be 40, 50 or 60 leagues; which was but 24 hours +run for us with a large wind; besides the trouble and discontent which +might have arisen among my men in beating to windward to so little +purpose, there being nothing to be got at sea; but here we lived and did +eat plentifully every day without trouble. The greatest inconveniency of +this place was want of water; this being the latter part of the dry +season, because the monsoon was very late this year. About 4 days before +we came away we had tornadoes with thunder, lightning and rain, and much +wind; but of no long continuance; at which time we filled some water. We +saw very black clouds, and heard it thunder every day for near a month +before in the mountains; and saw it rain, but none came near us: and even +where we hunted we saw great trees torn up by the roots, and great havoc +made among the woods by the wind; yet none touched us.</p> + +<center> +<p><img alt="" src="images/dampier-nh2-19.jpg"></p> +</center> + +<p><a name="ch2"></a></p> + +<h3>CHAPTER 2.</h3> + +<h4>A DESCRIPTION OF TIMOR.</h4> + +<p>A PARTICULAR DESCRIPTION OF THE ISLAND TIMOR.</p> + +<p>The island Timor, as I have said in my Voyage round the World, is about +seventy leagues long and fourteen or sixteen broad. It lies nearly +north-east and south-west. The middle of it lies in about 9 degrees south +latitude. It has no navigable rivers nor many harbours; but abundance of +bays for ships to ride in at some seasons of the year. The shore is very +bold, free from rocks, shoals or islands, excepting a few which are +visible and therefore easily avoided. On the south side there is a shoal +laid down in our charts about thirty leagues from the south-west end; I +was fifteen or twenty leagues further to the east than that distance, but +saw nothing of the shoal; neither could I find any harbour. It is a +pretty even shore, with sandy bays and low land for about three or four +miles up; and then it is mountainous. There is no anchoring but with half +a league or a league at farthest from the shore; and the low land that +bounds the sea has nothing but red mangroves, even from the foot of the +mountains till you come within a hundred and fifty or two hundred paces +of the sea; and then you have sandbanks clothed with a sort of pine; so +that there is no getting water on this side because of the mangroves.</p> + +<p>THE ISLAND ANABAO. FAULT OF THE CHARTS. THE CHANNEL BETWEEN TIMOR AND ANABAO.</p> + +<p>At the south-west end of Timor is a pretty high island called Anabao. It +is about ten or twelve leagues long and about four broad; near which the +Dutch are settled. It lies so near Timor that it is laid down in our +charts as part of that island; yet we found a narrow deep channel fit for +any ships to pass between them. This channel is about ten leagues long +and in some places not above a league wide. It runs north-east and +south-west, so deep that there is no anchoring but very nigh the shore. +There is but little tide; the flood setting north and the ebb to the +southward. At the north-east end of this channel are two points of land +not above a league asunder; one on the south side upon Timor, called +Kupang; the other on the north side, upon the island Anabao. From this +last point the land trends away northerly two or three leagues, opens to +the sea, and then bends in again to the westward.</p> + +<p>KUPANG BAY. FORT CONCORDIA.</p> + +<p>Being past these points you open a bay of about eight leagues long and +four wide. This bay trends in on the south side north-east by east from +the south point before mentioned; making many small points or little +coves. About a league to the east of the said south point the Dutch have +a small stone fort, situated on a firm rock close by the sea: this fort +they call Concordia. On the east side of the fort there is a small river +of fresh water which has a broad boarded bridge over it, near to the +entry into the fort. Beyond this river is a small sandy bay where the +boats and barks land and convey their traffic in or out of the fort. +About a hundred yards from the seaside, and as many from the fort, and +forty yards from the bridge on the east side, the Company have a fine +garden, surrounded with a good stone wall; in it is plenty of all sorts +of salads, cabbages, roots for the kitchen; in some parts of it are +fruit-trees, as jacas, pumplenose, oranges, sweet lemons, etc. And by the +walls are coconut and toddy-trees in great plenty. Besides these they +have musk and watermelons, pineapples, pomecitrons, pomegranates, and +other sorts of fruits. Between this garden and the river there is a pen +for black cattle, whereof they have plenty. Beyond the Company's ground +the natives have their houses, in number about fifty or sixty. There are +forty or fifty soldiers belonging to this fort, but I know not how many +guns they have; for I had only opportunity to see one bastion, which had +in it four guns. Within the walls there is a neat little church or +chapel.</p> + +<p>A PARTICULAR DESCRIPTION OF THE BAY.</p> + +<p>Beyond Concordia the land runs about seven leagues to the bottom of the +bay; then it is not above a league and a half from side to side, and the +land trends away northerly to the north shore, then turns about again to +the westward, making the south side of the bay. About three leagues and a +half from the bottom of the bay on this side there is a small island +about a musket-shot from the shore; and a reef of rocks that runs from it +to the eastward about a mile. On the west side of the island is a channel +of three fathom at low-water, of which depth it is also within, where +ships may haul in and careen. West from this island the land rounds away +in a bight or elbow, and at last ends in a low point of land which shoots +forth a ledge of rocks a mile into the sea, which is dry at low water. +Just against the low point of land and to the west of the ledge of rocks +is another pretty high and rocky yet woody island, about half a mile from +the low point; which island has a ledge of corally rocks running from it +all along to the other small island, only leaving one channel between +them. Many of these rocks are to be seen at low-water, and there seldom +is water enough for a boat to go over them till quarter flood or more. +Within this ledge there is two or three fathom water, and without it no +less than ten or twelve fathom close to the rocks. A league without this +last rocky island is another small low sandy island, about four miles +from the low point, three leagues from the Dutch fort Concordia and three +leagues and a half from the south-west point of the bay. Ships that come +in this way must pass between this low isle and the low point, keeping +near the isle.</p> + +<p>THE ANCHORING-PLACE, CALLED BABAO.</p> + +<p>In this bay there is any depth of water from thirty to three fathom, very +good oazy holding ground. This affords the best shelter against all winds +of any place about the island Timor. But from March to October, while +either the southerly winds or only land and seabreezes hold, the +Concordia side is best to ride in; but when the more violent northerly +winds come then the best riding is between the two rocky islands in +nineteen or twenty fathom. If you bring the westernmost island to bear +south-west by west about a league distance, and the low point west by +south; then the body of the sandy island will bear south-west half west, +distance two leagues; and the ledges of rocks shooting from each make +such a bar that no sea can come in. Then you have the land from west by +south to east-north-east to defend you on that side: and other winds do +not here blow violently. But if they did yet you are so land-locked that +there can be no sea to hurt you. This anchoring-place is called Babao, +about five leagues from Concordia. The greatest inconveniency in it is +the multitude of worms. Here is fresh water enough to be had in the wet +season; every little gulley discharging fresh water into the sea.</p> + +<p>THE MALAYANS HERE KILL ALL THE EUROPEANS THEY CAN.</p> + +<p>In the dry season you must search for it in standing ponds or gulleys, +where the wild buffaloes, hogs, etc. resort every morning and evening to +drink; where you may lie and shoot them, taking care that you go strong +enough and well-armed against the natives upon all occasions. For though +there are no inhabitants near this place yet the Malayans come in great +companies when ships are here; and if they meet with any Europeans they +kill them, of what nation soever they be, not excepting the Portuguese +themselves. It is but two years since a Portuguese ship riding here had +all the boat's crew cut off as they were watering; as I was informed by +the Dutch. Here likewise is plenty of fish of several sorts, which may be +caught with a seine; also tortoise and oysters.</p> + +<p>From the north-east point of this bay, on the north side of the island, +the land trends away north-north-east for four or five leagues; afterward +north-east or more easterly; and when you are fourteen or fifteen leagues +to the eastward of Babao you come up with a point that makes like +Flamborough Head, if you are pretty nigh the land; but if at a distance +from it on either side it appears like an island. This point is very +remarkable, there being none other like it in all this island. When you +are abreast of this point you will see another point about four leagues +to the eastward; and when you are abreast of this latter point you will +see a small island bearing east or east by north (according to your +distance from the land) just rising out of the water: when you see it +plain you will be abreast of a pretty deep sandy bay, which has a point +in the middle that comes sloping from the mountains with a curious valley +on each side: the sandy bay runs from one valley to the other. You may +sail into this bay, and anchor a little to the eastward of the point in +twenty fathom water, half a mile from the shore, soft oaze. Then you will +be about two leagues from the west point of the bay, and about eight +leagues from the small island before mentioned, which you can see pretty +plain bearing east-north-east a little northwardly. Some other marks are +set down in the foregoing chapter. In this sandy bay you will find fresh +water in two or three places. At spring tides you will see many +ripplings, like shoals; but they are only eddies caused by the two points +of the bay.</p> + +<p>We saw smokes all day up in the mountains, and fires by night, at certain +places where we supposed the natives lived, but saw none of them.</p> + +<p>The tides ran between the two points of the bay, very strong and +uncertain: yet it did not rise and fall above nine foot upon a spring +tide: but it made great ripplings and a roaring noise, whirling about +like whirlpools. We had constantly eddy tides under the shore, made by +the points on each side of the bay.</p> + +<p>LAPHAO, A PORTUGUESE SETTLEMENT, DESCRIBED.</p> + +<p>When you go hence to the eastward you may pass between the small island +and Timor; and when you are five or six leagues to the eastward of the +small island you will see a large valley to the eastward of you; then, +running a little further, you may see houses on the bay: you may luff in, +but anchor not till you go about the next point. Then you will see more +houses where you may run in to twenty or thirty fathom, and anchor right +against the houses, nearest the west end of them. This place is called +Laphao. It is a Portuguese settlement, about sixteen leagues from the +watering-bay.</p> + +<p>There are in it about forty or fifty houses and one church. The houses +are mean and low, the walls generally made of mud or wattled, and their +sides made up with boards: they are all thatched with palm or palmetto +leaves. The church also is very small: the east end of it is boarded up +to the top; but the sides and the west end are only boarded three or four +foot high; the rest is all open: there is a small altar in it, with two +steps to go up to it, and an image or two; but all very mean. It is also +thatched with palm or palmetto leaves. Each house has a yard belonging to +it, fenced about with wild canes nine or ten foot high. There is a well +in each yard, and a little bucket with a string to it to draw water +withal. There is a trunk of a tree made hollow, placed in each well, to +keep the earth from falling in. Round the yards there are many +fruit-trees planted; as coconuts, tamarinds and toddy-trees.</p> + +<p>They have a small hovel by the sea side where there are six small old +iron guns standing on a decayed platform, in rotten carriages. Their +vents are so big that when they are fired, the strength of the powder +flying out there, they give but a small report like that of a musket. +This is their court of guard; and here were a few armed men watching all +the time we lay here.</p> + +<p>The inhabitants of the town are chiefly a sort of Indians of a +copper-colour, with black lank hair: they speak Portuguese and are of the +Romish religion; but they take the liberty to eat flesh when they please. +They value themselves on the account of their religion and descent from +the Portuguese; and would be very angry if a man should say they are not +Portuguese; yet I saw but three white men here, two of which were padres. +There are also a few Chinese living here. It is a place of pretty good +trade and strength, the best on this island, Porta Nova excepted. They +have three or four small barks belonging to the place; with which they +trade chiefly about the island with the natives for wax, gold, and +sandalwood. Sometimes they go to Batavia and fetch European commodities, +rice, etc.</p> + +<p>The Chinese trade hither from Macao; and I was informed that about twenty +sail of small vessels come from thence hither every year. They bring +coarse rice, adulterated gold, tea, iron, and iron tools, porcelain, +silks, etc. They take in exchange pure gold, as it is gathered in the +mountains, beeswax, sandalwood, slaves, etc. Sometimes also here comes a +ship from Goa. Ships that trade here began to come hither the latter end +of March; and none stay here longer than the latter end of August. For +should they be here while the north-north-west monsoon blows no cables +nor anchors would hold them; but they would be driven ashore and dashed +in pieces presently. But from March till September, while the +south-south-east monsoon blows, ships ride here very secure; for then, +though the wind often blows hard, yet it is offshore; so that there is +very smooth water, and no fear of being driven ashore; and yet even then +they moor with three cables; two towards the land, eastward and westward; +and the third right off to seaward.</p> + +<p>As this is the second place of traffic so it is in strength the second +place the Portuguese have here, though not capable of resisting a hundred +men: for the pirates that were at the Dutch fort came hither also; and +after they had filled their water and cut firewood and refreshed +themselves, they plundered the houses, set them on fire, and went away. +Yet I was told that the Portuguese can draw together five or six hundred +men in twenty-four hours time, all armed with hand-guns, swords and +pistols; but powder and bullets are scarce and dear. The chief person +they have on the island is named Antonio Henriquez; they call him usually +by the title of Captain More or Maior. They say he is a white man, and +that he was sent hither by the viceroy of Goa. I did not see him; for he +lives, as I was informed, a great way from hence, at a place called Porta +Nova, which is at the east end of the island, and by report is a good +harbour; but they say that this Captain More goes frequently to wars in +company with the Indians that are his neighbours and friends, against +other Indians that are their enemies. The next man to him is Alexis +Mendosa; he is a lieutenant, and lives six or seven miles from hence, and +rules this part of the country. He is a little man of the Indian race, +copper-coloured, with black lank hair. He speaks both the Indian and +Portuguese languages; is a Roman Catholic, and seems to be a civil brisk +man. There is another lieutenant at Laphao; who is also an Indian; speaks +both his own and the Portuguese language very well; is old and infirm, +but was very courteous to me.</p> + +<p>They boast very much of their strength here, and say they are able at any +time to drive the Dutch away from the island, had they permission from +the king of Portugal so to do. But though they boast thus of their +strength yet really they are very weak; for they have but a few small +arms and but little powder: they have no fort, nor magazine of arms; nor +does the viceroy of Goa send them any now: for though they pretend to be +under the king of Portugal they are a sort of lawless people, and are +under no government. It was not long since the viceroy of Goa sent a ship +hither, and a land-officer to remain here: but Captain More put him in +irons, and sent him aboard the ship again; telling the commander that he +had no occasion for any officers; and that he could make better officers +here than any that could be sent him from Goa: and I know not whether +there has been any other ship sent from Goa since: so that they have no +supplies from thence: yet they need not want arms and ammunition, seeing +they trade to Batavia. However they have swords and lances as other +Indians have; and though they are ambitious to be called Portuguese, and +value themselves on their religion, yet most of the men and all the women +that live here are Indians; and there are very few right Portuguese in +any part of the island. However of those that call themselves Portuguese +I was told there are some thousands; and I think their strength consists +more in their numbers than in good arms or discipline.</p> + +<p>The land from hence trends away east by north about 14 leagues, making +many points and sandy bays, where vessels may anchor.</p> + +<p>PORT CICCALE.</p> + +<p>Fourteen leagues east from Laphao there is a small harbour called Ciccale +by the Portuguese, and commended by them for an excellent port; but it is +very small, has a narrow entrance, and lies open to northerly winds: +though indeed there are two ledges of rocks, one shooting out from the +west point and the other from the east point, which break off the sea; +for the rocks are dry at low water. This place is about 60 leagues from +the south-west end of the island.</p> + +<p>THE HILLS, WATER, LOWLANDS, SOIL, WOODS, METALS, IN THE ISLAND TIMOR.</p> + +<p>The whole of this island Timor is a very uneven rough country, full of +hills and small valleys. In the middle of it there runs a chain of high +mountains, almost from one end to the other. It is indifferently well +watered (even in the dry times) with small brooks and springs, but no +great rivers; the island being but narrow, and such a chain of mountains +in the middle that no water can run far; but, as the springs break out on +one side or other of the hills, they make their nearest course to the +sea. In the wet season the valleys and low lands by the sea are overflown +with water; and then the small drills that run into the sea are great +rivers; and the gullies, which are dry for 3 or 4 months before, now +discharge an impetuous torrent. The low land by the seaside is for the +most part friable, loose, sandy soil; yet indifferently fertile and +clothed with woods. The mountains are chequered with woods and some spots +of savannahs: some of the hills are wholly covered with tall, flourishing +trees; others but thinly; and these few trees that are on them, look very +small, rusty and withered; and the spots of savannahs among them appear +rocky and barren. Many of the mountains are rich in gold, copper, or +both: the rains wash the gold out of mountains, which the natives pick up +in the adjacent brooks, as the Spaniards do in America: how they get the +copper I know not.</p> + +<p>ITS TREES.</p> + +<p>The trees that grow naturally here are of divers sorts; many of them +wholly unknown to me; but such as I have seen in America or other places, +and grow here likewise, are these, namely mangrove, white, red and black; +maho, calabash, several sorts of the palm kind: the cotton-trees are not +large, but tougher than those in America: here are also locust-trees of 2 +or 3 sorts, bearing fruit, but not like those I have formerly seen; these +bear a large white blossom, and yield much fruit but, it is not sweet.</p> + +<p>CANA-FISTULA-TREE DESCRIBED.</p> + +<p>Cana-fistula-trees are very common here; the tree is about the bigness of +our ordinary apple-trees; their branches not thick, nor full of leaves. +These and the before-mentioned blossom in October and November; the +blossoms are much like our apple-tree blossoms, and about that bigness: +at first they are red; but before they fall off, when spread abroad, they +are white; so that these trees in their season appear extraordinarily +pleasant, and yield a very fragrant smell. When the fruit is ripe it is +round, and about the bigness of a man's thumb; of a dark brown colour, +inclining to red, and about 2 foot or 2 foot and a half long. We found +many of them under the trees, but they had no pulp in them. The +partitions in the middle are much at the same distance with those brought +to England, of the same substance, and such small flat seed in them: but +whether they be the true cana-fistula or no I cannot tell, because I +found no black pulp in them.</p> + +<p>The calabashes here are very prickly: the trees grow tall and tapering; +whereas in the West Indies they are low and spread much abroad.</p> + +<p>Here are also wild tamarind-trees, not as large as the true; though much +resembling them both in the bark and leaf.</p> + +<p>WILD FIGTREES DESCRIBED.</p> + +<p>Wild fig trees here are many, but not so large as those in America. The +fruit grows not on the branches singly like those in America, but in +strings and clusters, 40 or 50 in a cluster, about the body and great +branches of the tree, from the very root up to the top. These figs are +about the bigness of a crab-apple, of a greenish colour, and full of +small white seeds; they smell pretty well, but have no juice or taste; +they are ripe in November.</p> + +<p>Here likewise grows sandalwood, and many more sorts of trees fit for any +uses. The tallest among them resemble our pines; they are straight and +clear-bodied, but not very thick; the inside is reddish near the heart +and hard and ponderous.</p> + +<p>TWO NEW SORTS OF PALMTREES DESCRIBED.</p> + +<p>Of the palm kind there are 3 or 4 sorts; two of which kinds I have not +seen anywhere but here. Both sorts are very large and tall. The first +sort had trunks of about 7 or eight foot in circumference and about 80 or +90 foot high. These had branches at the top like coconut-trees, and their +fruit like coconuts, but smaller: the nut was of an oval form, and about +the bigness of a duck's egg: the shell black and very hard. It was almost +full of kernel, having only a small empty space in the middle, but no +water as coconuts have. The kernel is too hard to be eaten. The fruit +somewhat resembles that in Brazil formerly mentioned. The husk or outside +of the fruit was very yellow, soft and pulpy when ripe; and full of small +fibres; and when it fell down from the trees would mash and smell +unsavoury.</p> + +<p>The other sort was as big and tall as the former; the body growing +straight up without limbs, as all trees of the palm kind do: but, instead +of a great many long green branches growing from the head of the tree, +these had short branches about the bigness of a man's arm, and about a +foot long; each of which spread itself into a great many small tough +twigs, that hung full of fruit like so many ropes of onions. The fruit +was as big as a large plum; and every tree had several bushels of fruit. +The branches that bore this fruit sprouted out at about 50 or 60 foot +height from the ground. The trunk of the tree was all of one bigness from +the ground to that height; but from thence it went tapering smaller and +smaller to the top, where it was no bigger than a man's leg, ending in a +stump: and there was no green about the tree but the fruit; so that it +appeared like a dead trunk.</p> + +<p>Besides fruit trees here were many sorts of tall straight-bodied +timber-trees; one sort of which was like pine. These grow plentifully all +round the island by the seaside, but not far within land. It is hard +wood, of a reddish colour, and very ponderous.</p> + +<p>THE FRUITS OF THE ISLAND.</p> + +<p>The fruits of this island are guavas, mangoes, jacas, coconuts, +plantains, bananas, pineapples, citrons, pomegranates, oranges, lemons, +limes, musk-melons, watermelons, pumpkins, etc. Many of these have been +brought hither by the Dutch and Portuguese; and most of them are ripe in +September and October. There were many other excellent fruits, but not +now in season; as I was informed both by the Dutch and Portuguese.</p> + +<p>THE HERBS.</p> + +<p>Here I met with an herb which in the West Indies we call calalaloo. It +grows wild here. I ate of it several times and found it as pleasant and +wholesome as spinach. Here are also parsley, samphire, etc. Indian corn +thrives very well here, and is the common food of the islanders; though +the Portuguese and their friends sow some rice, but not half enough for +their subsistence.</p> + +<p>ITS LAND ANIMALS.</p> + +<p>The land animals are buffaloes, beeves, horses, hogs, goats, sheep, +monkeys, iguanas, lizards, snakes, scorpions, centumpees, etc. Beside the +tame hogs and buffaloes, there are many wild all over the country, which +any may freely kill. As for the beeves, horses, goats, and sheep, it is +probable they were brought in by the Portuguese or Dutch; especially the +beeves; for I saw none but at the Dutch fort Concordia.</p> + +<p>We also saw monkeys and some snakes. One sort yellow, and as big as a +man's arm, and about 4 foot long: another sort no bigger than the stem of +a tobacco pipe, about 5 foot long, green all over his body, and with a +flat red head as big as a man's thumb.</p> + +<p>FOWLS. THE RINGING-BIRD.</p> + +<p>The fowls are wild cocks and hens, eagles, hawks, crows, 2 sorts of +pigeons, turtledoves, 3 or 4 sorts of parrots, parakeets, cockatoos, +blackbirds; besides a multitude of smaller birds of divers colours, whose +charming music makes the woods very pleasant. One sort of these pretty +little birds my men called the ringing-bird; because it had 6 notes, and +always repeated all his notes twice one after another; beginning high and +shrill and ending low. This bird was about the bigness of a lark, having +a small sharp black bill and blue wings; the head and breast were of a +pale red, and there was a blue streak about its neck. Here are also +sea- or waterfowls, as men-of-war-birds, boobies, fishing-hawks, herons, +galdens, crab-catchers, etc. The tame fowl are cocks, hens, ducks, geese; +the 2 last sorts I only saw at the Dutch fort, of the other sort there +are not many but among the Portuguese: the woods abound with bees, which +make much honey and wax.</p> + +<p>ITS FISH. COCKLE MERCHANTS AND OYSTERS. COCKLES AS BIG AS A MAN'S HEAD.</p> + +<p>The sea is very well stocked with fish of divers sorts, namely mullet, +bass, bream, snook, mackerel, parracoots, garfish, ten-pounders, +scuttle-fish, stingrays, whiprays, rasperages, cockle-merchants, or +oyster-crackers, cavallies, conger-eels, rock-fish, dog-fish, etc. The +rays are so plentiful that I never drew the seine but I caught some of +them; which we salted and dried. I caught one whose tail was 13 foot +long. The cockle-merchants are shaped like cavallies, and about their +bigness. They feed on shellfish, having 2 very hard, thick, flat bones in +their throat, with which they break in pieces the shells of the fish they +swallow. We always find a great many shells in their maws, crushed in +pieces. The shellfish are oysters of 3 sorts, namely long-oysters, common +oysters, growing upon rocks in great abundance and very flat; and another +sort of large oysters, fat and crooked; the shell of this not easily to +be distinguished from a stone. Three or four of these roasted will +suffice a man for one meal. Cockles, as big as a man's head; of which 2 +or 3 are enough for a meal; they are very fat and sweet. Crawfish, +shrimps, etc. Here are also many green-turtle, some alligators and +grandpisces, etc.</p> + +<p>ITS ORIGINAL NATIVES DESCRIBED.</p> + +<p>The original natives of this island are Indians, they are of a middle +stature, straight-bodied, slender-limbed, long-visaged; their hair black +and lank; their skins very swarthy. They are very dexterous and nimble, +but withal lazy in the high degree. They are said to be dull in +everything but treachery and barbarity. Their houses are but low and +mean, their clothing only a small cloth about their middle; but some of +them for ornament have frontlets of mother-of-pearl, or thin pieces of +silver or gold, made of an oval form of the breadth of a crown-piece, +curiously notched round the edges; five of these placed one by another a +little above the eyebrows making a sufficient guard and ornament for +their forehead. They are so thin and placed on their foreheads so +artificially that they seem reverted thereon: and indeed the pearl-oyster +shells make a more splendid show than either silver or gold. Others of +them have palmetto-caps made in divers forms.</p> + +<p>As to their marriages they take as many wives as they can maintain; and +sometimes they sell their children to purchase more wives. I enquired +about their religion and was told they had none. Their common subsistence +is by Indian corn, which every man plants for himself. They take but +little pains to clear their land for in the dry time they set fire to the +withered grass and shrubs, and that burns them out a plantation for the +next wet season. What other grain they have beside Indian corn I know +not. Their plantations are very mean; for they delight most in hunting; +and here are wild buffaloes and hogs enough, though very shy because of +their so frequent hunting.</p> + +<p>They have a few boats and some fishermen. Their arms are lances, thick +round short truncheons and targets; with these they hunt and kill their +game and their enemies too; for this island is now divided into many +kingdoms, and all of different languages; though in their customs and +manner of living, as well as shape and colour, they seem to be of one +stock.</p> + +<p>THE PORTUGUESE AND DUTCH SETTLEMENTS.</p> + +<p>The chiefest kingdoms are Kupang, Amabia, Lortribie, Pobumbie, Namquimal; +the island also of Anamabao, or Anabao, is a kingdom. Each of these has a +sultan who is supreme in his province and kingdom, and has under him +several rajas and other inferior officers. The sultans for the most part +are enemies to each other, which enmities are fomented and kept up by the +Dutch, whose fort and factory is in the kingdom of Kupang; and therefore +the bay near which they are settled, is commonly called Kupang Bay. They +have only as much ground as they can keep within reach of their guns; yet +this whole kingdom is at peace with them; and they freely trade together; +as also with the islanders on Anabao, who are in amity as well with the +natives of Kupang as with the Dutch residing there; but they are +implacable enemies to those of Amabie, who are their next neighbours, and +in amity with the Portuguese: as are also the kingdoms of Pobumbie, +Namquimal and Lortribie. It is very probable that these 2 European +settlements on this island are the greatest occasion of their continued +wars. The Portuguese vaunt highly of their strength here and that they +are able at pleasure to rout the Dutch, if they had authority so to do +from the king of Portugal; and they have written to the viceroy of Goa +about it: and though their request is not yet granted, yet (as they say) +they live in expectation of it. These have no forts but depend on their +alliance with the natives: and indeed they are already so mixed that it +is hard to distinguish whether they are Portuguese or Indians. Their +language is Portuguese; and the religion they have is Romish. They seem +in words to acknowledge the king of Portugal for their sovereign; yet +they will not accept of any officers sent by him. They speak +indifferently the Malayan and their own native languages, as well as +Portuguese; and the chiefest officers that I saw were of this sort; +neither did I see above 3 or 4 white men among them; and of these 2 were +priests. Of this mixed breed there are some thousands; of whom some have +small arms of their own, and know how to use them. The chiefest person +(as I before said) is called Captain More or Maior: he is a white man, +sent hither by the viceroy of Goa, and seems to have great command here. +I did not see him; for he seldom comes down. His residence is at a place +called Porta Nova; which the people at Laphao told me was a great way +off; but I could not get any more particular account. Some told me that +he is most commonly in the mountains, with an army of Indians, to guard +the passes between them and the Kupangayans, especially in the dry times. +The next man to him is Alexis Mendosa: he is a right Indian, speaks very +good Portuguese, and is of the Romish religion. He lives 5 or 6 miles +from the sea, and is called the lieutenant. (This is he whom I called +governor, when at Laphao.) He commands next to Captain More, and has +under him another at this fort (at the seaside) if it may be so-called. +He also is called lieutenant and is an Indian Portuguese.</p> + +<p>Besides this mongrel breed of Indians and Portuguese here are also some +Chinamen, merchants from Macao: they bring hither coarse rice, gold, tea, +iron-work, porcelain, and silk both wrought and raw: they get in exchange +pure gold as it is here gathered, beeswax, sandalwood, coir, etc. It is +said there are about 20 small China vessels come hither every year from +Macao; and commonly one vessel a year from Goa, which brings European +commodities and calicos, muslins, etc. Here are likewise some small barks +belonging to this place, that trade to Batavia, and bring from thence +both European and Indian goods and rice. The vessels generally come here +in March and stay till September.</p> + +<p>The Dutch as I before said are settled in the kingdom of Kupang, where +they have a small neat stone fort. It seems to be pretty strong; yet, as +I was informed, had been taken by a French pirate about 2 years ago: the +Dutch were used very barbarously, and ever since are very jealous of any +strangers that come this way; which I myself experienced. These depend +more on their own strength than on the natives their friends; having good +guns, powder, and shot enough on all occasions, and soldiers sufficient +to manage the business here, all well disciplined and in good order; +which is a thing the Portuguese their neighbours are altogether destitute +of, they having no European soldiers, few arms, less ammunition, and +their fort consisting of no more than 6 bad guns planted against the sea, +whose touch-holes (as was before observed) are so enlarged by time that a +great part of the strength of the powder flies away there; and, having +soldiers in pay, the natives on all occasions are hired; and their +government now is so loose that they will admit of no more officers from +Portugal or Goa. They have also little or no supply of arms or ammunition +from thence, but buy it as often as they can of the Dutch, Chinese, etc., +so that upon the whole it seems improbable that they should ever attempt +to drive out the Dutch for fear of loosing themselves, notwithstanding +their bosomed prowess and alliance with the natives: and indeed, as far +as I could hear, they have business enough to keep their own present +territories from the incursions of the Kupangayans; who are friends to +the Dutch, and whom doubtless the Dutch have ways enough to preserve in +their friendship; besides that they have an inveterate malice to their +neighbours, insomuch that they kill all they meet, and bring away their +heads in triumph. The great men of Kupang stick the heads of those they +have killed on poles; and set them on the tops of their houses; and these +they esteem above all their other riches. The inferior sort bring the +heads of those they kill into houses made for that purpose; of which +there was one at the Indian village near the fort Concordia, almost full +of heads, as I was told. I know not what encouragement they have for +their inhumanity.</p> + +<p>THE MALAYAN LANGUAGE GENERALLY SPOKEN HERE.</p> + +<p>The Dutch have always 2 sloops belonging to their fort; in these they go +about the island and trade with the natives and, as far as I could learn, +they trade indifferently with them all. For though the inland people are +at war with each other, yet those by the seaside seem to be little +concerned; and, generally speaking the Malayan language, are very +sociable and easily induced to trade with those that speak that language; +which the Dutch here always learn; besides, being well acquainted with +the treachery of these people, they go well armed among them, and are +very vigilant never to give them an opportunity to hurt them; and it is +very probable that they supply them with such goods as the Portuguese +cannot.</p> + +<p>LORANTUCA ON THE ISLAND ENDE.</p> + +<p>The Malayan language, as I have before said, is generally spoken amongst +all the islands hereabouts. The greater the trade is the more this +language is spoken: in some it is become their only language; in others +it is but little spoken, and that by the seaside only. With this language +the Mahomedan religion did spread itself, and was got hither before any +European Christians came: but now, though the language is still used, the +Mahomedan religion falls, wherever the Portuguese or Dutch are settled; +unless they be very weak, as at Solor and Ende, where the chief language +is Malayan, and the religion Mahomedanism; though the Dutch are settled +at Solor, and the Portuguese at the east end of the island Ende, at a +place called Lorantuca; which, as I was informed, is a large town, has a +pretty strong fort and safe harbour. The chief man there (as at Timor) is +called Captain More, and is as absolute as the other. These 2 principal +men are enemies to each other; and by their letters and messages to Goa +inveigh bitterly against each other; and are ready to do all the ill +offices they can; yet neither of them much regards the viceroy of Goa, as +I was informed.</p> + +<p>Lorantuca is said to be more populous than any town on Timor; the island +Ende affording greater plenty of all manner of fruit, and being much +better supplied with all necessaries than Laphao; especially with sheep, +goats, hogs, poultry, etc. But it is very dangerous getting into this +harbour because of the violent tides between the islands Ende and Solor. +In the middle channel between Timor and the range of islands to the +northward of it, whereof Ende and Solor are 2, there runs a constant +current all the year to the westward; though near either shore there are +tides indeed; but the tide of flood, which sets west, running 8 or 9 +hours, and the ebb not exceeding 3 or 4 hours, the tide in some places +rises 9 or 10 foot on a spring.</p> + +<p>THE SEASONS, WINDS, AND WEATHER AT TIMOR.</p> + +<p>The seasons of the year here at Timor are much the same as in other +places in south latitude. The fair weather begins in April or May and +continues to October, then the tornadoes begin to come, but no violent +bad weather till the middle of December. Then there are violent west or +north-west winds, with rain, till towards the middle of February. In May +the southerly winds set in and blow very strong on the north side of the +island, but fair. There is great difference of winds on the 2 sides of +the island: for the southerly winds are but very faint on the south side, +and very hard on the north side; and the bad weather on the south side +comes in very violent in October, which on the north side comes not till +December. You have very good sea and land breezes, when the weather is +fair; and may run indifferently to the east or west, as your business +lies. We found from September to December the winds veering all round the +compass gradually in 24 hours time; but such a constant western current +that it is much harder getting to the east than west at or near spring +tides: which I have more than once made trial of. For weighing from Babao +at 6 o'clock in the morning on the 12 instant we kept plying under the +shore till the 20th, meeting with such a western current that we gained +very little. We had land and seabreezes; but so faint that we could +hardly stem the current; and when it was calm between the breezes we +drove a-stern faster than ever we sailed ahead.</p> + +<center> +<p><img alt="" src="images/dampier-nh2-19.jpg"></p> +</center> + +<p><a name="ch3"></a></p> +<h3>CHAPTER 3.</h3> + +<h4>PLYING ON THE NEW GUINEA COAST.</h4> + +<p>DEPARTURE FROM TIMOR.</p> + +<p>On the 12th of December 1699 we sailed from Babao, coasting along the +island Timor to the eastward towards New Guinea. It was the 20th before +we got as far as Laphao, which is but forty leagues. We saw black clouds +in the north-west and expected the wind from that quarter above a month +sooner.</p> + +<p>THE ISLANDS OMBA AND FETTER.</p> + +<p>That afternoon we saw the opening between the islands Omba and Fetter, +but feared to pass through in the night. At two o'clock in the morning it +fell calm; and continued so till noon, in which time we drove with the +current back again south-west six or seven leagues.</p> + +<p>On the 22nd, steering to the eastward to get through between Omba and +Fetter, we met a very strong tide against us, so that we, although we had +a very fresh gale, yet made way very slowly; yet before night got +through. By a good observation we found that the south-east point of Omba +lies in latitude 8 degrees 25 minutes. In my charts it is laid down in 8 +degrees 10 minutes. My true course from Babao is east 25 degrees north, +distance one hundred and eighty-three miles. We sounded several times +when near Omba, but had no ground. On the north-east point of Omba we saw +four or five men, and a little further three pretty houses on a low +point, but did not go ashore.</p> + +<p>At five this afternoon we had a tornado which yielded much rain, thunder +and lightning; yet we had but little wind. The 24th in the morning we +caught a large shark, which gave all the ship's company a plentiful meal.</p> + +<p>A BURNING ISLAND.</p> + +<p>The 27th we saw the burning island, it lies in latitude 6 degrees 36 +minutes south; it is high and but small. It runs from the sea a little +sloping towards the top; which is divided in the middle into two peaks, +between which issued out much smoke: I have not seen more from any +volcano. I saw no trees; but the north side appeared green, and the rest +looked very barren.</p> + +<p>THEIR MISSING THE TURTLE ISLES.</p> + +<p>Having passed the burning island I shaped my course for two islands +called Turtle Isles which lie north-east by east a little easterly, and +distant about fifty leagues from the burning isle. I, fearing the wind +might veer to the eastward of the north, steered 20 leagues north-east, +then north-east by east. On the 28th we saw two small low islands called +Luca Paros, to the north of us. At noon I accounted myself 20 leagues +short of the Turtle Isles.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="dampier-nh2-05"></a><img alt="" src="images/dampier-nh2-05.jpg"></p> +<p><b>TABLE 7. TIMOR AND OTHER ISLANDS BETWEEN IT AND NEW GUINEA.</b></p> +</center> + +<p>BANDA ISLES.</p> + +<p>The next morning, being in the latitude of the Turtle Islands, we looked +out sharp for them but saw no appearance of any island till 11 o'clock; +when we saw an island at a great distance. At first we supposed it might +be one of the Turtle Isles: but it was not laid down true, neither in +latitude nor longitude from the burning isle, nor from the Luca Paros, +which last I took to be a great help to guide me, they being laid down +very well from the burning isle, and that likewise in true latitude and +distance from Omba: so that I could not tell what to think of the island +now in sight; we having had fair weather, so that we could not pass by +the Turtle Isles without seeing them; and this in sight was much too far +off for them. We found variation 1 degree 2 minutes east. In the +afternoon I steered north-east by east for the islands that we saw. At 2 +o'clock I went and looked over the fore-yard, and saw 2 islands at much +greater distance than the Turtle Islands are laid down in my charts; one +of them was a very high peaked mountain, cleft at top, and much like the +burning island that we passed by, but bigger and higher; the other was a +pretty long high flat island. Now I was certain that these were not the +Turtle Islands, and that they could be no other than the Banda Isles; yet +we steered in to make them plainer. At 3 o'clock we discovered another +small flat island to the north-west of the others, and saw a great deal +of smoke rise from the top of the high island; at 4 we saw other small +islands, by which I was now assured that these were the Banda Isles +there. At 5 I altered my course and steered east, and at 8 +east-south-east; because I would not be seen by the inhabitants of those +islands in the morning.</p> + +<p>BIRD ISLAND.</p> + +<p>We had little wind all night: and in the morning as soon as it was light +we saw another high peaked island: at 8 it bore south-south-east half +east, distance 8 leagues. And this I knew to be Bird Isle. It is laid +down in our charts in latitude 5 degrees 9 minutes south, which is too +far southerly by 27 miles according to our observation; and the like +error in laying down the Turtle Islands might be the occasion of our +missing them.</p> + +<p>At night I shortened sail for fear of coming too nigh some islands that +stretch away bending like a half moon from Ceram towards Timor, and which +in my course I must of necessity pass through. The next morning betimes I +saw them; and found them to be at a farther distance from Bird Island +than I expected. In the afternoon it fell quite calm; and when we had a +little wind it was so unconstant, flying from one point to another, that +I could not without difficulty get through the islands where I designed: +besides I found a current setting to the southward; so that it was +betwixt 5 and 6 in the evening before I passed through the islands; and +then just weathered little Waiela, whereas I thought to have been 2 or 3 +leagues more northerly. We saw the day before, betwixt 2 and 3, a spout +but a small distance from us. It fell down out of a black cloud that +yielded great store of rain, thunder, and lightning: this cloud hovered +to the southward of us for the space of three hours, and then drew to the +westward a great pace; at which time it was that we saw the spout, which +hung fast to the cloud till it broke; and then the cloud whirled about to +the south-east, then to east-north-east; where, meeting with an island, +it spent itself and so dispersed; and immediately we had a little of the +tail of it, having had none before. Afterward we saw a smoke on the +island Kosiway, which continued all night.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="dampier-nh2-06"></a><img alt="" src="images/dampier-nh2-06.jpg"></p> +<p><b>TABLE 8. NEW GUINEA.</b></p> +</center> + +<p>1700.</p> + +<p>THEY DESCRY THE COAST OF NEW GUINEA.</p> + +<p>On New Year's Day we first descried the land of New Guinea, which +appeared to be high land; and the next day we saw several high islands on +the coast of New Guinea, and ran in with the mainland. The shore here +lies along east-south-east and west-north-west. It is high even land, +very well clothed with tall flourishing trees, which appeared very green +and gave us a very pleasant prospect. We ran to the westward of four +mountainous islands; and in the night had a small tornado, which brought +with it some rain and a fair wind. We had fair weather for a long time; +only when near any land we had some tornadoes; but off at sea commonly +clear weather; though if in sight of land we usually saw many black +clouds hovering about it.</p> + +<p>THEY ANCHOR ON THE COAST OF NEW GUINEA.</p> + +<p>On the 5th and 6th of January we plied to get in with the land; designing +to anchor, fill water, and spend a little time in searching the country, +till after the change of the moon; for I found a strong current setting +against us. We anchored in 38 fathom water, good oazie ground. We had an +island of a league long without us, about 3 miles distant; and we rode +from the main about a mile. The easternmost point of land seen bore east +by south half south, distance 3 leagues: and the westernmost +west-south-west half south, distance 2 leagues. So soon as we anchored we +sent the pinnace to look for water, and try if they could catch any fish. +Afterwards we sent the yawl another way to see for water. Before night +the pinnace brought on board several sorts of fruits that they found in +the woods, such as I never saw before.</p> + +<p>A DESCRIPTION OF THE PLACE, AND OF A STRANGE FOWL FOUND THERE.</p> + +<p>One of my men killed a stately land-fowl, as big as the largest +dunghill-cock. It was of a sky-colour; only in the middle of the wings +was a white spot, about which were some reddish spots: on the crown it +had a large bunch of long feathers, which appeared very pretty. His bill +was like a pigeon's; he had strong legs and feet, like dunghill-fowls; +only the claws were reddish. His crop was full of small berries. It lays +an egg as big as a large hen's egg; for our men climbed the tree where it +nested and brought off one egg. They found water; and reported that the +trees were large, tall and very thick; and that they saw no sign of +people. At night the yawl came aboard and brought a wooden fishgig, very +ingeniously made; the matter of it was a small cane; they found it by a +small barbecue, where they also saw a shattered canoe.</p> + +<p>GREAT QUANTITIES OF MACKEREL.</p> + +<p>The next morning I sent the boatswain ashore a-fishing and at one haul he +caught 352 mackerels and about 20 other fishes; which I caused to be +equally divided among all my company. I sent also the gunner and chief +mate to search about if they could find convenient anchoring nearer a +watering-place: by night they brought word that they had found a fine +stream of good water, where the boat could come close to and it was very +easy to be filled; and that the ship might anchor as near to it as I +pleased: so I went thither. The next morning therefore we anchored in 25 +fathom water, soft oazie ground, about a mile from the river: we got on +board 3 tun of water that night; and caught 2 or 3 pike-fish, in shape +much like a parracota, but with a longer snout, something resembling a +gar, yet not so long. The next day I sent the boat again for water and +before night all my casks were full.</p> + +<p>A WHITE ISLAND.</p> + +<p>Having filled here about 15 tuns of water, seeing we could catch but +little fish, and had no other refreshments, I intended to sail next day; +but finding that we wanted wood I sent to cut some; and going ashore to +hasten it, at some distance from the place where our men were, I found a +small cove where I saw two barbecues, which appeared not to be above 2 +months standing: the spars were cut with some sharp instrument; so that, +if done by the natives, it seems that they have iron. On the 10th, a +little after 12 o'clock, we weighed and stood over to the north side of +the bay; and at 1 o'clock stood out with the wind at north and +north-north-west. At 4 we passed out by a White Island, which I so named +from its many white cliffs, having no name in our charts. It is about a +league long, pretty high, and very woody: it is about 5 miles from the +main, only at the west end it reaches within 3 miles of it. At some +distance off at sea the west point appears like a cape land; the north +side trends away north-north-west, and the east side east-south-east. +This island lies in latitude 3 degrees 4 minutes south; and the meridian +distance from Babao, 500 and 12 miles east. After we were out to sea we +plied to get to the northward; but met with such a strong current against +us that we got but little. For if the wind favoured us in the night, that +we got 3 or 4 leagues; we lost it again and were driven as far astern +next morning, so that we plied here several days.</p> + +<p>The 14th, being past a point of land that we had been 3 days getting +about, we found little or no current; so that, having the wind at +north-west by west and west-north-west, we stood to the northward, and +had several soundings: at 3 o'clock, 38 fathom; the nearest part of New +Guinea being about 3 leagues distance: at 4, 37; at 5, 36; at 6, 36; at +8, 33 fathom; then the cape was about 4 leagues distant; so that as we +ran off we found our water shallower. We had then some islands to the +westward of us, at about four leagues distance.</p> + +<p>THEY ANCHOR AT AN ISLAND CALLED BY THE INHABITANTS PULO SABUDA. A +DESCRIPTION OF IT AND ITS INHABITANTS AND PRODUCT.</p> + +<p>A little after noon we saw smokes on the islands to the west of us; and, +having a fine gale of wind, I steered away for them: at 7 o'clock in the +evening we anchored in 35 fathom, about two leagues from an island, good +soft oazie ground. We lay still all night, and saw fires ashore. In the +morning we weighed again, and ran farther in, thinking to have shallower +water; but we ran within a mile of the shore, and came to in 38 fathom, +good soft holding ground. While we were under sail 2 canoes came off +within call of us: they spoke to us, but we did not understand their +language, nor signs. We waved to them to come aboard, and I called to +them in the Malayan language to do the same; but they would not; yet they +came so nigh us that we could show them such things as we had to truck +with them; yet neither would this entice them to come aboard; but they +made signs for us to come ashore, and away they went. Then I went after +them in my pinnace, carrying with me knives, beads, glasses, hatchets, +etc. When we came near the shore I called to them in the Malayan +language: I saw but 2 men at first, the rest lying in ambush behind the +bushes; but as soon as I threw ashore some knives and other toys they +came out, flung down their weapons, and came into the water by the boat's +side, making signs of friendship by pouring water on their heads with one +hand which they dipped into the sea. The next day in the afternoon +several other canoes came aboard and brought many roots and fruits, which +we purchased.</p> + +<p>This island has no name in our charts but the natives call it Pulo +Sabuda. It is about 3 leagues long and 2 miles wide, more or less. It is +of a good height so as to be seen 11 or 12 leagues. It is very rocky; yet +above the rocks there is good yellow and black mould; not deep yet +producing plenty of good tall trees, and bearing any fruits or roots +which the inhabitants plant. I do not know all its produce; but what we +saw were plantains, coconuts, pineapples, oranges, papaws, potatoes, and +other large roots. Here are also another sort of wild jacas, about the +bigness of a man's two fists, full of stones or kernels, which eat +pleasant enough when roasted. The libby-tree grows here in the swampy +valleys, of which they make sago cakes: I did not see them make any but +was told by the inhabitants that it was made of the pith of the tree in +the same manner I have described in my Voyage round the World. They +showed me the tree whereof it was made, and I bought about 40 of the +cakes. I bought also 3 or 4 nutmegs in their shell, which did not seem to +have been long gathered; but, whether they be the growth of this island +or not, the natives would not tell whence they had them, and seemed to +prize them very much. What beasts the island affords I know not: but here +are both sea- and land-fowl. Of the first boobies and men-of-war-birds +are the chief; some galdens, and small milk-white crab-catchers. The +land-fowls are pigeons, about the bigness of mountain-pigeons in Jamaica; +and crows about the bigness of those in England, and much like them; but +the inner part of their feathers are white, and the outside black; so +that they appear all black, unless you extend the feathers. Here are +large sky-coloured birds, such as we lately killed on New Guinea; and +many other small birds unknown to us. Here are likewise abundance of +bats, as big as young coneys; their necks, head, ears and noses, like +foxes; their hair rough; that about their necks is of a whitish yellow, +that on their heads and shoulders black; their wings are 4 foot over from +tip to tip: they smell like foxes. The fish are bass, rock-fish, and a +sort of fish like mullet, old-wives, whip-rays, and some other sorts that +I know not, but no great plenty of any; for it is deep water till within +less than a mile of the shore; then there is a bank of coral rocks within +which you have shoal water, white clean sand: so there is no good fishing +with the seine.</p> + +<p>This island lies in latitude 2 degrees 43 minutes south and meridian +distance from Port Babao on the island Timor 486 miles. Besides this +island here are 9 or 10 other small islands, as they are laid down in the +charts.</p> + +<p>The inhabitants of this island are a sort of very tawny Indians, with +long black hair; who in their manners differ but little from the +Mindanayans, and others of these eastern islands. These seem to be the +chief; for besides them we saw also shock curl-pated New Guinea negroes; +many of which are slaves to the others, but I think not all. They are +very poor, wear no clothes, but have a clout about their middle, made of +the rinds of the tops of palmetto-trees; but the women had a sort of +calico cloths. Their chief ornaments are blue and yellow beads, worn +about their wrists. The men arm themselves with bows and arrows, lances, +broad swords like those of Mindanao; their lances are pointed with bone.</p> + +<p>THE INDIANS' MANNER OF FISHING THERE.</p> + +<p>They strike fish very ingeniously with wooden fishgigs, and have a very +ingenious way of making the fish rise: for they have a piece of wood, +curiously carved and painted much like a dolphin (and perhaps other +figures) these they let down into the water by a line with a small weight +to sink it; when they think it low enough they haul the line into their +boats very fast, and the fish rise up after this figure; and they stand +ready to strike them when they are near the surface of the water. But +their chief livelihood is from their plantations. Yet they have large +boats, and go over to New Guinea where they get slaves, fine parrots, +etc., which they carry to Goram and exchange for calicos. One boat came +from thence a little before I arrived here; of whom I bought some +parrots; and would have bought a slave but they would not barter for +anything but calicos, which I had not. Their houses on this side were +very small, and seemed only to be for necessity; but on the other side of +the island we saw good large houses. Their proas are narrow with +outlagers on each side, like other Malayans. I cannot tell of what +religion these are; but I think they are not Mahomedans, by their +drinking brandy out of the same cup with us without any scruple. At this +island we continued till the 20th instant, having laid in store of such +roots and fruits as the island afforded.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="dampier-nh2-07"></a><img alt="" src="images/dampier-nh2-07.jpg"></p> +<p><b>FISH, BAT AND BIRD OF NEW GUINEA:</b></p> +</center> + +<p>On the 20th at half hour after 6 in the morning I weighed and, standing +out, we saw a large boat full of men lying at the north point of the +island. As we passed by they rowed towards their habitations, where we +supposed they had withdrawn themselves for fear of us (though we gave +them no cause of terror) or for some differences among themselves.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="dampier-nh2-08"></a><img alt="" src="images/dampier-nh2-08.jpg"></p> +<p><b>TABLE 9. NEW GUINEA.</b></p> +</center> + +<p>We stood to the northward till 7 in the evening; then saw a rippling; +and, the water being discoloured, we sounded, and had but 22 fathom. I +went about and stood to the westward till 2 next morning, then tacked +again and had these several soundings: at 8 in the evening, 22; at 10, +25; at 11, 27; at 12, 28 fathom; at 2 in the morning 26; at 4, 24; at 6, +23; at 8, 28; at 12, 22.</p> + +<p>ARRIVAL AT MABO, THE NORTH-WEST CAPE OF NEW GUINEA. A DESCRIPTION OF IT.</p> + +<p>We passed by many small islands and among many dangerous shoals without +any remarkable occurrence till the 4th of February, when we got within 3 +leagues of the north-west cape of New Guinea, called by the Dutch Cape +Mabo. Off this cape there lies a small woody island, and many islands of +different sizes to the north and north-east of it. This part of New +Guinea is high land, adorned with tall trees that appeared very green and +flourishing. The cape itself is not very high, but ends in a low sharp +point; and on either side there appears another such point at equal +distances, which makes it resemble a diamond. This only appears when you +are abreast of the middle point; and then you have no ground within 3 +leagues of the shore.</p> + +<p>COCKLE ISLAND.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon we passed by the cape and stood over for the islands. +Before it was dark we were got within a league of the westermost; but had +no ground with 50 fathom of line. However, fearing to stand nearer in the +dark, we tacked and stood to the east, and plied all night. The next +morning we were got 5 or 6 leagues to the eastward of that island; and, +having the wind easterly, we stood in to the northward among the islands, +sounded, and had no ground. Then I sent in my boat to sound, and they had +ground with 50 fathom near a mile from the shore. We tacked before the +boat came aboard again for fear of a shoal that was about a mile to the +east of that island the boat went to; from whence also a shoal point +stretched out itself till it met the other: they brought with them such a +cockle as I have mentioned in my Voyage round the World, found near +Celebes; and they saw many more, some bigger than that which they brought +aboard, as they said; and for this reason I named it Cockle Island. I +sent them to sound again, ordering them to fire a musket if they found +good anchoring; we were then standing to the southward, with a fine +breeze. As soon as they fired I tacked and stood in: they told me they +had 50 fathom when they fired. I tacked again, and made all the sail I +could to get out, being near some rocky islands and shoals to leeward of +us. The breeze increased, and I thought we were out of danger; but, +having a shoal just by us, and the wind falling again, I ordered the boat +to tow us, and by their help we got clear from it. We had a strong tide +setting to the westward.</p> + +<p>COCKLES OF SEVENTY-EIGHT POUND WEIGHT.</p> + +<p>At 1 o'clock, being past the shoal and finding the tide setting to the +westward, I anchored in 35 fathom, coarse sand with small coral and +shells. Being nearest to Cockle Island I immediately sent both the boats +thither; one to cut wood, and the other to fish. At 4 in the afternoon, +having a small breeze at south-south-west, I made a sign for my boats to +come aboard. They brought some wood and a few small cockles, none of them +exceeding 10 pound weight; whereas the shell of the great one weighed 78 +pound; but it was now high-water and therefore they could get no bigger. +They also brought on board some pigeons, of which we found plenty on all +the islands where we touched in these seas. Also in many places we saw +many large bats, but killed none, except those I mentioned at Pulo +Sabuda. As our boats came aboard we weighed and made sail, steering +east-south-east as long as the wind held; in the morning we found we had +got 4 or 5 leagues to the east of the place where we weighed. We stood to +and fro till 11; and, finding that we lost ground, anchored in 42 fathom, +coarse gravelly sand with some coral. This morning we thought we saw a +sail.</p> + +<p>PIGEON ISLAND.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon I went ashore on a small woody island about 2 leagues +from us. Here I found the greatest number of pigeons that ever I saw +either in the east or West Indies, and small cockles in the sea round the +island in such quantities that we might have laden the boat in an hour's +time: these were not above 10 or 12 pound weight. We cut some wood and +brought off cockles enough for all the ship's company; but having no +small shot we could kill no pigeons. I returned about 4 o'clock; and then +my gunner and both mates went thither, and in less than three-quarters of +an hour they killed and brought off 10 pigeons. Here is a tide: the flood +sets west and the ebb east; but the latter is very faint and but of small +continuance. And so we found it ever since we came from Timor.</p> + +<p>THE WIND HEREABOUTS.</p> + +<p>The winds we found easterly, between north-east and east-south-east; so +that, if these continue, it is impossible to beat farther to the eastward +on this coast against wind and current. These easterly winds increased +from the time we were in the latitude of about 2 degrees south; and as we +drew nigher the Line they hung more easterly. And now, being to the north +of the continent of New Guinea where the coast lies east and west, I find +the tradewind here at east; which yet in higher latitudes is usually at +north-north-west and north-west; and so I did expect them here, it being +to the south of the Line.</p> + +<p>AN EMPTY COCKLESHELL WEIGHING TWO HUNDRED FIFTY-EIGHT POUND.</p> + +<p>The 7th in the morning I sent my boat ashore on Pigeon Island and stayed +till noon. In the afternoon my men returned, brought 22 pigeons, and many +cockles, some very large, some small: they also brought one empty shell +that weighed 258 pound.</p> + +<p>KING WILLIAM'S ISLAND. A DESCRIPTION OF IT.</p> + +<p>At 4 o'clock we weighed, having a small westerly wind and a tide with us; +at 7 in the evening we anchored in 42 fathom, near King William's Island, +where I went ashore the next morning, drank His Majesty's health, and +honoured it with his name. It is about 2 leagues and a half in length, +very high, and extraordinarily well clothed with woods. The trees are of +divers sorts, most unknown to us, but all very green and flourishing; +many of them had flowers, some white, some purple, others yellow; all +which smelt very fragrantly. The trees are generally tall and +straight-bodied, and may be fit for any uses. I saw one of a clean body, +without knot or limb, 60 are 70 foot high by estimation. It was 3 of my +fathoms about, and kept its bigness without any sensible decrease even to +the top. The mould of the island is black but not deep; it being very +rocky. On the sides and top of the island are many palmetto-trees whose +heads we could discern over all the other trees, but their bodies we +could not see.</p> + +<p>About 1 in the afternoon we weighed and stood to the eastward, between +the main and King William's Island; leaving the island on our larboard +side and sounding till we were past the island; and then we had no +ground. Here we found the flood setting east by north, and the ebb west +by south. There were shoals and small islands between us and the main, +which caused the tide to set very inconstantly, and make many whirlings +in the water; yet we did not find the tide to set strong any way, nor the +water to rise much.</p> + +<p>PLYING ON THE COAST OF NEW GUINEA.</p> + +<p>On the 9th, being to the eastward of King William's Island, we plied all +day between the main and other islands, having easterly winds and fair +weather till 7 the next morning. Then we had very hard rain till 8 and +saw many shoals of fish. We lay becalmed off a pretty deep bay on New +Guinea, about 12 or 14 leagues wide and 7 or 8 leagues deep, having low +land near its bottom, but high land without. The eastermost part of New +Guinea seen bore east by south, distant 12 leagues: Cape Mabo +west-south-west half south, distant 7 leagues.</p> + +<p>At 1 in the afternoon it began to rain and continued till 6 in the +evening; so that, having but little wind and most calms, we lay still off +the forementioned bay, having King William's Island still in sight, +though distant by judgment 15 or 16 leagues west. We saw many shoals of +small fish, some sharks, and 7 or 8 dolphins; but caught none. In the +afternoon, being about 4 leagues from the shore, we saw an opening in the +land which seemed to afford good harbour: in the evening we saw a large +fire there; and I intended to go in (if winds and weather would permit) +to get some acquaintance with the natives.</p> + +<p>Since the 4th instant that we passed Cape Mabo to the 12th we had small +easterly winds and calms, so that we anchored several times; where I made +my men cut wood, that we might have a good stock when a westerly wind +should present; and so we plied to the eastward, as winds and currents +would permit; having not got in all above 30 leagues to the eastward of +Cape Mabo. But on the 12th, at 4 in the afternoon, a small gale sprang up +at north-east by north with rain: at 5 it shuffled about to north-west, +from thence to the south-west, and continued between those 2 points a +pretty brisk gale; so that we made sail and steered away north-east, till +the 13th in the morning, to get about the Cape of Good Hope. When it was +day we steered north-east half east, then north-east by east till 7 +o'clock; and being then 7 or 8 leagues off shore we steered away east; +the shore trending east by south. We had very much rain all night, so +that we could not carry much sail; yet we had a very steady gale. At 8 +this morning the weather cleared up and the wind decreased to a fine +top-gallant gale, and settled at west by south. We had more rain these 3 +days past than all the voyage in so short time. We were now about 6 +leagues from the land of New Guinea, which appeared very high; and we saw +2 headlands, about 20 leagues asunder; the one to the east, and the other +to the west, which last is called the Cape of Good Hope. We found +variation east 4 degrees.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="dampier-nh2-09"></a><img alt="" src="images/dampier-nh2-09.jpg"></p> +<p><b>TABLE 10. NEW GUINEA ETC.</b></p> +</center> + +<p>FAULT OF THE CHARTS.</p> + +<p>The 15th in the morning between 12 and 2 o'clock it blew a very brisk +gale at north-west and looked very black in the south-west. At 2 it flew +about at once to the south-south-west and rained very hard. The wind +settled some time at west-south-west, and we steered east-north-east till +3 in the morning: then, the wind and rain abating, we steered east half +north for fear of coming near the land. Presently after, it being a +little clear, the man at the bowsprit-end called out, "Land on our +starboard bow." We looked out and saw it plain. I presently sounded and +had but 10 fathom soft ground. The master, being somewhat scared, came +running in haste with this news, and said it was best to anchor: I told +him no, but sound again; then we had 12 fathom; the next cast, 13 and a +half; the 4th, 17 fathom; and then no ground with 50 fathom line. However +we kept off the island and did not go so fast but that we could see any +other danger before we came nigh it. For here might have been more +islands not laid down in my charts besides this. For I searched all the +charts I had, if perchance I might find any island in the one which was +not in the others; but I could find none near us. When it was day we were +about 5 leagues off the land we saw; but, I believe, not above 5 mile, or +at most 2 leagues, off it when we first saw it in the night.</p> + +<p>PROVIDENCE ISLAND.</p> + +<p>This is a small island but pretty high; I named it Providence. About 5 +leagues to the southward of this there is another island which is called +William Schouten's Island and laid down in our charts: it is a high +island and about 20 leagues long.</p> + +<p>It was by mere Providence that we missed the small island. For had not +the wind come to west-south-west and blown hard, so that we steered +east-north-east, we had been upon it by our course that we steered +before, if we could not have seen it. This morning we saw many great +trees and logs swim by us; which it is probable came out of some great +rivers on the main.</p> + +<p>THEY CROSS THE LINE.</p> + +<p>On the 16th we crossed the Line, and found variation 6 degrees 26 minutes +east. The 18th by my observation at noon we found that we had had a +current setting to the southward, and probably that drew us in so nigh +Schouten's Island. For this 24 hours we steered east by north with a +large wind, yet made but an east by south half south course; though the +variation was not above 7 degrees east.</p> + +<p>The 21st we had a current setting to the northward, which is against the +true trade monsoon, it being now near the full moon. I did expect it +here, as in all other places. We had variation 8 degrees 45 minutes east. +The 22nd we found but little current; if any, it set to the southward.</p> + +<p>A SNAKE PURSUED BY FISH.</p> + +<p>On the 23rd in the afternoon we saw 2 snakes; and the next morning +another, passing by us, which was furiously assaulted by 2 fishes that +had kept us company 5 or 6 days. They were shaped like mackerel and were +about that bigness and length, and of a yellow-greenish colour. The snake +swam away from them very fast, keeping his head above water; the fish +snapped at his tail; but when he turned himself that fish would withdraw, +and another would snap; so that by turns they kept him employed; yet he +still defended himself and swam away a great pace till they were out of +sight.</p> + +<p>The 25th betimes in the morning we saw an island to the southward of us +at about 15 leagues distance. We steered away for it, supposing it to be +that which the Dutch call Wishart's Island; but, finding it otherwise, I +called it Matthias; it being that saint's day. This island is about 9 or +10 leagues long, mountainous and woody, with many savannahs, and some +spots of land which seemed to be cleared.</p> + +<p>SQUALLY ISLAND.</p> + +<p>At 8 in the evening we lay by, intending, if I could, to anchor under +Matthias Isle. But the next morning, seeing another island about 7 or 8 +leagues to the eastward of it, we steered away for it; at noon we came up +fair with its south-west end, intending to run along by it and anchor on +the south-east side: but the tornadoes came in so thick and hard that I +could not venture in. This island is pretty low and plain, and clothed +with wood; the trees were very green, and appeared to be large and tall, +as thick as they could stand one by another. It is about 2 or 3 leagues +long, and at the south-west point there is another small low woody island +about a mile round, and about a mile from the other. Between them there +runs a reef of rocks which joins them. (The biggest I named Squally +Island.)</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="dampier-nh2-10"></a><img alt="" src="images/dampier-nh2-10.jpg"></p> +<p><b>TABLE 11. SQUALLY AND OTHER ISLANDS ON THE COAST OF NEW BRITAIN.</b></p> +</center> + +<p>THE MAIN OF NEW GUINEA.</p> + +<p>Seeing we could not anchor here I stood away to the southward to make the +main. But, having many hard squalls and tornadoes, we were often forced +to hand all our sails and steer more easterly to go before it. On the +26th at 4 o'clock it cleared up to a hard sky, and a brisk settled gale; +then we made as much sail as we could. At 5 it cleared up over the land +and we saw, as we thought, Cape Solomaswer bearing south-south-east +distance 10 leagues. We had many great logs and trees swimming by us all +this afternoon, and much grass; we steered in south-south-east till 6, +then the wind slackened and we stood off till 7, having little wind; then +we lay by till 10, at which time we made sail and steered away east all +night. The next morning, as soon as it was light, we made all the sail we +could, and steered away east-south-east, as the land lay; being fair in +sight of it, and not above 7 leagues distance. We passed by many small +low woody islands which lay between us and the main, not laid down in our +charts. We found variation 9 degrees 50 minutes east.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="dampier-nh2-11"></a><img alt="" src="images/dampier-nh2-11.jpg"></p> +<p><b>FISHES TAKEN ON THE COAST OF NEW GUINEA.</b></p> +</center> + +<p>The 28th we had many violent tornadoes, wind, rain, and some spouts; and +in the tornadoes the wind shifted. In the night we had fair weather, but +more lightning than we had seen at any time this voyage. This morning we +left a large high island on our larboard side, called in the Dutch charts +Wishart's Isle, about 6 leagues from the main; and, seeing many smokes +upon the main, I therefore steered towards it.</p> + +<center> +<p><img alt="" src="images/dampier-nh2-19.jpg"></p> +</center> + +<p><a name="ch4"></a></p> +<h3>CHAPTER 4.</h3> + +<h4>NEW BRITAIN DISCOVERED.</h4> + +<p>THE MAINLAND OF NEW GUINEA. ITS INHABITANTS. SLINGERS BAY.</p> + +<p>The mainland at this place is high and mountainous, adorned with tall +flourishing trees; the sides of the hills had many large plantations and +patches of cleared land; which, together with the smokes we saw, were +certain signs of its being well inhabited; and I was desirous to have +some commerce with the inhabitants. Being nigh the shore we saw first one +proa; a little after, 2 or 3 more; and at last a great many boats came +from all the adjacent bays. When they were 46 in number they approached +so near us that we could see each other's signs, and hear each other +speak; though we could not understand them, nor they us. They made signs +for us to go in towards the shore, pointing that way; it was squally +weather, which at first made me cautious of going too near; but, the +weather beginning to look pretty well, I endeavoured to get into a bay +ahead of us, which we could have got into well enough at first; but while +we lay by we were driven so far to leeward that now it was more difficult +to get in. The natives lay in their proas round us; to whom I showed +beads, knives, glasses, to allure them to come nearer; but they would +come so nigh as to receive anything from us. Therefore I threw out some +things to them, namely a knife fastened to a piece of board, and a glass +bottle corked up with some beads in it, which they took up and seemed +well pleased. They often struck their left breast with their right hand, +and as often held up a black truncheon over their heads, which we thought +was a token of friendship; wherefore we did the like. And when we stood +in towards their shore they seemed to rejoice; but when we stood off they +frowned, yet kept us company in their proas, still pointing to the shore. +About 5 o'clock we got within the mouth of the bay and sounded several +times, but had no ground though within a mile of the shore. The basin of +this bay was above 2 miles within us, into which we might have gone; but, +as I was not assured of anchorage there, so I thought it not prudence to +run in at this time; it being near night and seeing a black tornado +rising in the west, which I most feared: besides we had near 200 men in +proas close by us. And the bays on the shore were lined with men from one +end to the other, where there could not be less than 3 or 400 more. What +weapons they had we know not, nor yet their design. Therefore I had, at +their first coming near us, got up all our small arms, and made several +put on cartouch boxes to prevent treachery. At last I resolved to go out +again: which, when the natives in their proas perceived, they began to +fling stones at us as fast as they could, being provided with engines for +that purpose (wherefore I named this place Slingers Bay). But at the +firing of one gun they were all amazed, drew off and flung no more +stones. They got together as if consulting what to do; for they did not +make in towards the shore, but lay still, though some of them were killed +or wounded; and many of them had paid for their boldness, but that it was +unwilling to cut off any of them; which, if I had done, I could not hope +afterwards to bring them to treat with me.</p> + +<p>SMALL ISLANDS.</p> + +<p>The next day we sailed close by an island where we saw many smokes, and +men in the bays; out of which came 2 canoes, taking much pains to +overtake us, but they could not, though we went with an easy sail; and I +could not now stay for them. As I passed by the south-east point I +sounded several times within a mile of the sandy bays, but had no ground: +about 3 leagues to the northward of the south-east point we opened a +large deep bay, secured from west-north-west and south-west winds. There +were 2 other islands that lay to the north-east of it which secured the +bay from north-east winds; one was but small, yet woody; the other was a +league long, inhabited and full of coconut-trees. I endeavoured to get +into this bay; but there came such flaws off from the high land over it +that I could not; besides we had many hard squalls which deterred me from +it; and, night coming on, I would not run any hazard, but bore away to +the small inhabited island to see if we could get anchoring on the east +side of it. When we came there we found the island so narrow that there +could be no shelter; therefore I tacked and stood towards the greater +island again: and, being more than midway between both, I lay by, +designing to endeavour for anchorage next morning. Between 7 and 8 at +night we spied a canoe close by us; and, seeing no more, suffered her to +come aboard. She had 3 men in her who brought off 5 coconuts, for which I +gave each of them a knife and a string of beads to encourage them to come +off again in the morning: but before these went away we saw 2 more canoes +coming; therefore we stood away to the northward from them and then lay +by again till day. We saw no more boats this night; neither designed to +suffer any to come aboard in the dark.</p> + +<p>By nine o'clock the next morning we were got within a league of the great +island, but were kept off by violent gusts of wind. These squalls gave us +warning of their approach by the clouds which hung over the mountains, +and afterwards descended to the foot of them; and then it is we expect +them speedily.</p> + +<p>GERRIT DENNIS ISLE DESCRIBED.</p> + +<p>On the 3rd of March, being about 5 leagues to leeward of the great +island, we saw the mainland ahead; and another great high island to +leeward of us, distance about 7 leagues; which we bore away for. It is +called in the Dutch charts Gerrit Denis Isle. It is about 14 or 15 +leagues round; high and mountainous, and very woody: some trees appeared +very large and tall; and the bays by the seaside are well stored with +coconut-trees; where we also saw some small houses. The sides of the +mountains are thick set with plantations; and the mould in the new +cleared land seemed to be of a brown-reddish colour. This island is of no +regular figure, but is full of points shooting forth into the sea; +between which are many sandy bays, full of coconut-trees. The middle of +the isle lies in 3 degrees 10 minutes south latitude.</p> + +<p>ITS INHABITANTS.</p> + +<p>It is very populous; the natives are very black, strong, and well-limbed +people; having great round heads, their hair naturally curled and short, +which they shave into several forms, and dye it also of divers colours, +namely red, white and yellow. They have broad round faces with great +bottle noses, yet agreeable enough, till they disfigure them by painting, +and by wearing great things through their noses as big as a man's thumb +and about four inches long; these are run clear through both nostrils, +one end coming out by one cheek-bone, and the other end against the +other; and their noses so stretched that only a small slip of them +appears about the ornament. They have also great holes in their ears, +wherein they wear such stuff as in their noses.</p> + +<p>THEIR PROAS.</p> + +<p>They are very dexterous active fellows in their proas, which are very +ingeniously built. They are narrow and long with outlagers on one side; +the head and stern higher than the rest, and carved into many devices, +namely some fowl, fish, or a man's head, painted or carved: and though it +is but rudely done, yet the resemblance appears plainly, and shows an +ingenious fancy. But with what instruments they make their proas or +carved work I know not; for they seem to be utterly ignorant of iron. +They have very neat paddles with which they manage their proas +dexterously and make great way through the water. Their weapons are +chiefly lances, swords and slings, and some bows and arrows: they have +also wooden fishgigs for striking fish. Those that came to assault us in +Slingers Bay on the main are in all respects like these; and I believe +these are alike treacherous. Their speech is clear and distinct; the +words they used most when near us were "vacousee allamais," and then they +pointed to the shore. Their signs of friendship are either a great +truncheon, or bough of a tree full of leaves put on their heads; often +striking their heads with their hands.</p> + +<p>ANTHONY CAVE'S ISLAND.</p> + +<p>The next day, having a fresh gale of wind, we got under a high island, +about 4 or 5 leagues round, very woody, and full of plantations upon the +sides of the hills; and in the bays by the waterside are abundance of +coconut-trees. It lies in the latitude of 3 degrees 25 minutes south, and +meridian distance from Cape Mabo 1316 miles. On the south-east part of it +or 3 or 4 other small woody islands; one high and peaked, the other low +and flat; all bedecked with coconut-trees and other wood. On the north +there is another island of an indifferent height, and of a somewhat +larger circumference than the great high island last mentioned. We passed +between this and the high island. The high island is called in the Dutch +charts Anthony Cave's Island. As for the flat low island and the other +small one, it is probable they were never seen by the Dutch; nor the +islands to the north of Gerrit Dennis Island.</p> + +<p>ITS INHABITANTS.</p> + +<p>As soon as we came near Cave's Island some canoes came about us and made +signs for us to come ashore, as all the rest had done before; probably +thinking we could run the ship aground anywhere, as they did their proas; +for we saw neither sail nor anchor among any of them, though most eastern +Indians have both. These had proas made of one tree, well dug, with +outlagers on one side: they were but small yet well shaped. We +endeavoured to anchor but found no ground within a mile of the shore: we +kept close along the north side, still sounding till we came to the +north-east end, but found no ground; the canoes still accompanying us; +and the bays were covered with men going along as we sailed: many of them +strove to swim off to us but we left them astern. Being at the north-east +point we found a strong current setting to the north-west; so that though +we had steered to keep under the high island, yet we were driven towards +the flat one. At this time 3 of the natives came aboard: I gave each of +them a knife, a looking-glass, and a string of beads. I showed them +pumpkins and coconut-shells, and made signs to them to bring some aboard, +and had presently 3 coconuts out of one of the canoes. I showed them +nutmegs, and by their signs I guessed they had some on the island. I also +showed them some gold-dust, which they seemed to know, and called out +"manneel, manneel," and pointed towards the land. A while after these men +were gone 2 or 3 canoes came from the flat island, and by signs invited +us to their island; at which the others seemed displeased, and used very +menacing gestures and (I believe) speeches to each other. Night coming on +we stood off to sea; and, having but little wind all night, were driven +away to the north-west. We saw many great fires on the flat island. These +last men that came off to us were all black, as those we had seen before +with frizzled hair: they were very tall, lusty, well-shaped men; they +wear great things in their noses, and paint as the others, but not much; +they make the same signs of friendship, and their language seems to be +one: but the others had proas, and these canoes. On the sides of some of +these we saw the figures of several fish neatly cut; and these last were +not so shy as the others.</p> + +<p>TREES FULL OF WORMS FOUND IN THE SEA.</p> + +<p>Steering away from Cave's Island south-south-east we found a strong +current against us, which set only in some places in streams; and in them +we saw many trees and logs of wood which drove by us. We had but little +wood aboard; wherefore I hoisted out the pinnace and sent her to take up +some of this driftwood. In a little time she came aboard with a great +tree in a tow, which we could hardly hoist in with all our tackles. We +cut up the tree and split it for firewood. It was much worm-eaten and had +in it some live worms above an inch long, and about the bigness of a +goose-quill, and having their heads crusted over with a thin shell.</p> + +<p>ST. JOHN'S ISLAND.</p> + +<p>After this we passed by an island called by the Dutch St. John's Island, +leaving it to the north of us. It is about 9 or 10 leagues round and very +well adorned with lofty trees. We saw many plantations on the sides of +the hills, and abundance of coconut-trees about them; as also thick +groves on the bays by the seaside. As we came near it 3 canoes came off +to us but would not come aboard. They were such as we had seen about the +other islands: they spoke the same language, and made the same signs of +peace; and their canoes were such as at Cave's Island.</p> + +<p>THE MAINLAND OF NEW GUINEA.</p> + +<p>We stood along by St. John's Island till we came almost to the south-east +point; and then, seeing no more islands to the eastward of us, nor any +likelihood of anchoring under this, I steered away for the main of New +Guinea; we being now (as I supposed) to the east of it, on this north +side. My design of seeing these islands as I passed along was to get wood +and water, but could find no anchor-ground, and therefore could not do as +I purposed. Besides, these islands are all so populous that I dared not +send my boat ashore unless I could have anchored pretty nigh. Wherefore I +rather chose to prosecute my design on the main, the season of the year +being now at hand; for I judged the westerly winds were nigh spent.</p> + +<p>ITS INHABITANTS.</p> + +<p>On the 8th of March we saw some smokes on the main, being distant from it +4 or 5 leagues. It is very high, woody land, with some spots of savannah. +About 10 in the morning 6 or 7 canoes came off to us: most of them had no +more than one man in them; they were all black, with short curled hair; +having the same ornaments in their noses, and their heads so shaved and +painted, and speaking the same words, as the inhabitants of Cave's Island +before mentioned.</p> + +<p>THE COAST DESCRIBED.</p> + +<p>There was a headland to the southward of us beyond which, seeing no land, +I supposed that from thence the land trends away more westerly. This +headland lies in the latitude of 5 degrees 2 minutes south, and meridian +distance from Cape Mabo 1290 miles. In the night we lay by for fear of +over-shooting this headland. Between which and Cape St. Maries the land +is high, mountainous and woody; having many points of land shooting out +into the sea, which make so many fine bays. The coast lies +north-north-east and south-south-west.</p> + +<p>The 9th in the morning a huge black man came off to us in a canoe but +would not come aboard. He made the same signs of friendship to us as the +rest we had met with; yet seemed to differ in his language, not using any +of those words which the others did. We saw neither smokes nor +plantations near this headland. We found here variation 1 degree east.</p> + +<p>CAPE AND BAY ST. GEORGE.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon, as we plied near the shore, 3 canoes came off to us; +one had 4 men in her, the others 2 apiece. That with the 4 men came +pretty nigh us, and showed us a coconut and water in a bamboo, making +signs that there was enough ashore where they lived; they pointed to the +place where they would have us go, and so went away. We saw a small round +pretty high island, about a league to the north of this headland, within +which there was a large deep bay, whither the canoes went; and we strove +to get thither before night, but could not; wherefore we stood off, and +saw land to the westward of this headland, bearing west by south half +south, distance about 10 leagues; and, as we thought, still more land +bearing south-west by south, distance 12 or 14 leagues: but, being +clouded, it disappeared and we thought we had been deceived. Before night +we opened the headland fair and I named it Cape St. George. The land from +hence trends away west-north-west about 10 leagues, which is as far as we +could see it; and the land that we saw to the westward of it in the +evening, which bore west by south half south, was another point about 10 +leagues from Cape St. George; between which there runs in a deep bay for +20 leagues or more. We saw some high land in spots like islands down in +that bay at a great distance; but whether they are islands or the main +closing there we know not. The next morning we saw other land to the +south-east of the westermost point, which till then was clouded; it was +very high land, and the same that we saw the day before, that disappeared +in a cloud. This Cape St. George lies in the latitude of 5 degrees 5 +minutes south; and meridian distance from Cape Mabo 1290 miles. The +island off this cape I called St. George's Isle; and the bay between it +and the west point I named St. George's Bay. Note: no Dutch charts go so +far as this cape, by 10 leagues. On the 10th in the evening we got within +a league of the westermost land seen, which is pretty high and very +woody, but no appearance of anchoring. I stood off again, designing (if +possible) to ply to and fro in this bay till I found a conveniency to +wood and water. We saw no more plantations, nor coconut-trees; yet in the +night we discerned a small fire right against us. The next morning we saw +a burning mountain in the country. It was round, high, and peaked at top +(as most volcanoes are) and sent forth a great quantity of smoke. We took +up a log of driftwood and split it for firing; in which we found some +small fish.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="dampier-nh2-12"></a><img alt="" src="images/dampier-nh2-12.jpg"></p> +<p><b>TABLE 12. NEW BRITAIN.</b></p> +</center> + +<p>CAPE ORFORD.</p> + +<p>The day after we passed by the south-west cape of this bay, leaving it to +the north of us: when we were abreast of it I called my officers +together, and named it Cape Orford, in honour of my noble patron; +drinking his lordship's health. This cape bears from Cape St. George +south-west about 18 leagues. Between them there is a bay about 25 leagues +deep, having pretty high land all round it, especially near the capes, +though they themselves are not high. Cape Orford lies in the latitude of +5 degrees 24 minutes south by my observation; and meridian distance from +Cape St. George 44 miles west. The land trends from this cape north-west +by west into the bay, and on the other side south-west per compass, which +is south-west 9 degrees west, allowing the variation which is here 9 +degrees east. The land on each side of the cape is more savannah than +woodland, and is highest on the north-west side. The cape itself is a +bluff point of an indifferent height with a flat tableland at top. When +we were to the south-west of the cape it appeared to be a low point +shooting out; which you cannot see when abreast of it. This morning we +struck a log of driftwood with our turtle-irons, hoisted it in, and split +it for firewood. Afterwards we struck another but could not get it in. +There were many fish about it.</p> + +<p>We steered along south-west as the land lies, keeping about 6 leagues off +the shore; and, being desirous to cut wood and fill water if I saw any +conveniency, I lay by in the night, because I would not miss any place +proper for those ends, for fear of wanting such necessaries as we could +not live without. This coast is high and mountainous, and not so thick +with trees as that on the other side of Cape Orford.</p> + +<p>ANOTHER BAY. THE INHABITANTS THERE.</p> + +<p>On the 14th, seeing a pretty deep bay ahead, and some islands where I +thought we might ride secure, we ran in towards the shore and saw some +smokes. At 10 o'clock we saw a point which shot out pretty well into the +sea, with a bay within it which promised fair for water; and we stood in +with a moderate gale. Being got into the bay within the point we saw many +coconut-trees, plantations, and houses. When I came within 4 or 5 mile of +the shore 6 small boats came off to view us, with about 40 men in them +all. Perceiving that they only came to view us and would not come aboard, +I made signs and waved to them to go ashore; but they did not or would +not understand me; therefore I whistled a shot over their heads out of my +fowling-piece, and then they pulled away for the shore as hard as they +could. These were no sooner ashore but we saw 3 boats coming from the +islands to leeward of us, and they soon came within call; for we lay +becalmed. One of the boats had about 40 men in her, and was a large +well-built boat; the other 2 were but small. Not long after I saw another +boat coming out of that bay where I intended to go: she likewise was a +large boat, with a high head and stern painted and full of men; this I +thought came off to fight us, as it is probable they all did; therefore I +fired another small shot over the great boat that was nigh us, which made +them leave their babbling and take to their paddles. We still lay +becalmed; and therefore they, rowing wide of us, directed their course +toward the other great boat that was coming off: when they were pretty +near each other I caused the gunner to fire a gun between them which he +did very dexterously; it was loaded with round and partridge-shot; the +last dropped in the water somewhat short of them, but the round shot went +between both boats and grazed about 100 yards beyond them; this so +affrighted them that they rowed away for the shore as fast as they could, +without coming near each other; and the little boats made the best of +their way after them: and now, having a gentle breeze at +south-south-east, we bore in to the bay after them. When we came by the +point I saw a great number of men peeping from under the rocks: I ordered +a shot to be fired close by to scare them. The shot grazed between us and +the point; and, mounting again, flew over the point, and grazed a second +time just by them. We were obliged to sail along close by the bays; and, +seeing multitudes setting under the trees, I ordered a third gun to be +fired among the coconut-trees to scare them; for, my business being to +wood and water, I thought it necessary to strike some terror into the +inhabitants, who were very numerous, and (by what I saw now and had +formerly experienced) treacherous. After this I sent my boat to sound; +they had first 40, then 30, and at last 20 fathom water. We followed the +boat and came to anchor about a quarter of a mile from the shore in 26 +fathom water, fine black sand and oaze. We rode right against the mouth +of a small river where I hoped to find fresh water. Some of the natives +standing on a small point at the river's mouth, I sent a small shot over +their heads to fright them; which it did effectually.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="dampier-nh2-13"></a><img alt="" src="images/dampier-nh2-13.jpg"></p> +<p><b>FISHES TAKEN ON THE COAST OF NEW GUINEA.</b></p> +</center> + +<p>A LARGE ACCOUNT OF THE AUTHOR'S ATTEMPTS TO TRADE WITH THEM.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon I sent my boat ashore to the natives who stood upon the +point by the river's mouth with a present of coconuts; when the boat was +come near the shore they came running into the water, and put their nuts +into the boat. Then I made a signal for the boat to come aboard, and sent +both it and the yawl into the river to look for fresh water, ordering the +pinnace to lie near the river's mouth while the yawl went up to search. +In an hour's time they returned aboard with some barrecoes full of fresh +water, which they had taken up about half a mile up the river. After +which I sent them again with casks; ordering one of them to fill water, +and the other to watch the motion of the natives, lest they should make +any opposition; but they did not, and so the boats returned a little +before sunset with a tun and a half of water; and the next day by noon +brought aboard about 6 tun of water.</p> + +<p>I sent ashore commodities to purchase hogs, etc., being informed that the +natives have plenty of them, as also of yams and other good roots; but my +men returned without getting anything that I sent them for; the natives +being unwilling to trade with us: yet they admired our hatchets and axes; +but would part with nothing but coconuts; which they used to climb the +trees for; and so soon as they gave them our men they beckoned to them to +be gone; for they were much afraid of us.</p> + +<p>The 18th I sent both boats again for water, and before noon they had +filled all my casks. In the afternoon I sent them both to cut wood; but, +seeing about 40 natives standing on the bay at a small distance from our +men, I made a signal for them to come aboard again; which they did, and +brought me word that the men which we saw on the bay were passing that +way, but were afraid to come nigh them. At 4 o'clock I sent both the +boats again for more wood, and they returned in the evening. Then I +called my officers to consult whether it were convenient to stay here +longer, and endeavour a better acquaintance with these people or go to +sea. My design of tarrying here longer was, if possible, to get some +hogs, goats, yams and other roots; as also to get some knowledge of the +country and its product. My officers unanimously gave their opinions for +staying longer here. So the next day I sent both boats ashore again to +fish and to cut more wood. While they were ashore about 30 or 40 men and +women passed by them; they were a little afraid of our people at first; +but upon their making signs of friendship they passed by quietly; the men +finely bedecked with feathers of divers colours about their heads, and +lances in their hands; the women had no ornament about them, nor anything +to cover their nakedness but a bunch of small green boughs before and +behind, stuck under a string which came round their waists. They carried +large baskets on their heads, full of yams. And this I have observed +amongst all the wild natives I have known that they make their women +carry the burdens, while the men walk before without any other load than +their arms and ornaments. At noon our men came aboard with the wood they +had cut, and had caught but 6 fishes at 4 or 5 hauls of the seine, though +we saw abundance of fish leaping in the bay all the day long.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon I sent the boats ashore for more wood; and some of our +men went to the natives' houses, and found they were now more shy than +they used to be; had taken down all the coconuts from the trees and +driven away their hogs. Our people made signs to them to know what was +become of their hogs, etc. The natives, pointing to some houses in the +bottom of the bay, and imitating the noise of those creatures, seemed to +intimate that there were both hogs and goats of several sizes, which they +expressed by holding their hands abroad at several distances from the +ground.</p> + +<p>At night our boats came aboard with wood, and the next morning I went +myself with both boats up the river to the watering-place, carrying with +me all such trifles and iron-work as I thought most proper to induce them +to a commerce with us; but I found them very shy and roguish. I saw but 2 +men and a boy: one of the men by some signs was persuaded to come to the +boat's side, where I was; to him I gave a knife, a string of beads, and a +glass bottle; the fellow called out, "cocos, cocos," pointing to a +village hard by, and signified to us that he would go for some; but he +never returned to us. And thus they had frequently of late served our +men. I took 8 or 9 men with me and marched to their houses, which I found +very mean; and their doors made fast with withes.</p> + +<p>I visited 3 of their villages; and, finding all the houses thus abandoned +by the inhabitants, who carried with them all their hogs etc., I brought +out of their houses some small fishing-nets in recompense for those +things they had received of us. As we were coming away we saw 2 of the +natives; I showed them the things that we carried with us and called to +them "cocos, cocos," to let them know that I took these things because +they had not made good what they had promised by their signs, and by +their calling out "cocos." While I was thus employed the men in the yawl +filled 2 hogsheads of water and all the barrecoes. About 1 in the +afternoon I came aboard and found all my officers and men very +importunate to go to that bay where the hogs were said to be. I was loth +to yield to it, fearing they would deal too roughly with the natives. By +2 o'clock in the afternoon many black clouds gathered over the land, +which I thought would deter them from their enterprise; but they +solicited me the more to let them go. At last I consented, sending those +commodities I had ashore with me in the morning, and giving them a strict +charge to deal by fair means, and to act cautiously for their own +security. The bay I sent them to was about 2 miles from the ship. As soon +as they were gone I got all things ready that, if I saw occasion, I might +assist them with my great guns. When they came to land the natives in +great companies stood to resist them; shaking their lances and +threatening them; and some were so daring as to wade into the sea, +holding a target in one hand and a lance in the other. Our men held up to +them such commodities as I had sent, and made signs of friendship; but to +no purpose; for the natives waved them off. Seeing therefore they could +not be prevailed upon to a friendly commerce, my men, being resolved to +have some provision among them, fired some muskets to scare them away; +which had the desired effect upon all but 2 or 3, who stood still in a +menacing posture till the boldest dropped his target and ran away; they +supposed he was shot in the arm: he and some others felt the smart of our +bullets but none were killed; our design being rather to fright than to +kill them. Our men landed and found abundance of tame hogs running among +the houses. They shot down 9, which they brought away, besides many that +ran away wounded. They had but little time; for in less than an hour +after they went from the ship it began to rain: wherefore they got what +they could into the boats; for I had charged them to come away if it +rained. By that time the boat was aboard and the hogs taken in it cleared +up; and my men desired to make another trip thither before night; this +was about 5 in the evening; and I consented, giving them order to repair +on board before night. In the close of the evening they returned +accordingly with 8 hogs more, and a little live pig; and by this time the +other hogs were jerked and salted. These that came last we only dressed +and corned till morning; and then sent both boats ashore for more +refreshments, either of hogs or roots: but in the night the natives had +conveyed away their provisions of all sorts. Many of them were now about +the houses, and none offered to resist our boats landing, but on the +contrary were so amicable that one man brought 10 or 12 coconuts, left +them on the shore after he had showed them to our men, and went out of +sight. Our people finding nothing but nets and images brought some of +them away; which 2 of my men brought aboard in a small canoe; and +presently after, my boats came off. I ordered the boatswain to take care +of the nets, till we came at some place where they might be disposed of +for some refreshment for the use of all the company: the images I took +into my own custody.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon I sent the canoe the place from whence she had been +brought; and in her, 2 axes, 2 hatchets (one of them helved) 6 knives, 6 +looking-glasses, a large bunch of beads, and 4 glass bottles. Our men +drew the canoe ashore, placed the things to the best advantage in her; +and came off in the pinnace which I sent to guard them. And now, being +well stocked with wood and all my water-casks full, I resolved to sail +the next morning. All the time of our stay here we had very fair weather; +only sometimes in the afternoon we had a shower of rain which lasted not +above an hour at most: also some thunder and lightning with very little +wind. We had sea- and land-breezes; the former between the +south-south-east, and the latter from north-east to north-west.</p> + +<p>HE NAMES THE PLACE PORT MONTAGUE. THE COUNTRY THEREABOUTS DESCRIBED, AND +ITS PRODUCE.</p> + +<p>This place I named port Montague in honour of my noble patron. It lies in +the latitude of 6 degrees 10 minutes south, and meridian distance from +Cape St. George 151 miles west. The country hereabouts is mountainous and +woody, full of rich valleys and pleasant fresh-water brooks. The mould in +the valleys is deep and yellowish; that on the sides of the hills of a +very brown colour, and not very deep, but rocky underneath; yet excellent +planting land. The trees in general are neither very straight, thick, nor +tall; yet appear green and pleasant enough: some of them bore flowers, +some berries, and others big fruits; but all unknown to any of us. +Coconut-trees thrive very well here; as well on the bays by the seaside, +as more remote among the plantations. The nuts are of an indifferent +size, the milk and kernel very thick and pleasant. Here is ginger, yams, +and other very good roots for the pot, that our men saw and tasted. What +other fruits or roots the country affords I know not. Here are hogs and +dogs; other land-animals we saw none. The fowls we saw and knew were +pigeons, parrots, cockadores, and crows like those in England; a sort of +birds about the bigness of a blackbird, and smaller birds many. The sea +and rivers have plenty of fish; we saw abundance, though we caught but +few, and these were cavallies, yellow-tails and whip-rays.</p> + +<p>A BURNING ISLAND DESCRIBED.</p> + +<p>We departed from hence on the 22nd of March, and on the 24th in the +evening we saw some high land bearing north-west half west; to the west +of which we could see no land, though there appeared something like land +bearing west a little southerly; but, not being sure of it, I steered +west-north-west all night, and kept going on with an easy sail, intending +to coast along the shore at a distance. At 10 o'clock I saw a great fire +bearing north-west by west, blazing up in a pillar, sometimes very high +for 3 or 4 minutes, then falling quite down for an equal space of time; +sometimes hardly visible, till it blazed up again. I had laid me down +having been indisposed this 3 days: but upon a sight of this my chief +mate called me; I got up and viewed it for about half an hour and knew it +to be a burning hill by its intervals: I charged them to look well out, +having bright moonlight. In the morning I found that the fire we had seen +the night before was a burning island; and steered for it. We saw many +other islands, one large high island, and another smaller, but pretty +high. I stood near the volcano and many small low islands with some +shoals.</p> + +<p>A NEW PASSAGE FOUND.</p> + +<p>March the 25th 1700 in the evening we came within 3 leagues of this +burning hill, being at the same time 2 leagues from the main. I found a +good channel to pass between them, and kept nearer the main than the +island. At 7 in the evening I sounded, and had 52 fathom fine sand and +oaze. I stood to the northward to get clear of this strait, having but +little wind and fair weather. The island all night vomited fire and smoke +very amazingly; and at every belch we heard a dreadful noise like +thunder, and saw a flame of fire after it, the most terrifying that ever +I saw. The intervals between its belches were about half a minute, some +more, others less: neither were these pulses or eruptions alike; for some +were but faint convulsions in comparison of the more vigorous; yet even +the weakest vented a great deal of fire; but the largest made a roaring +noise, and sent up a large flame 20 or 30 yards high; and then might be +seen a great stream of fire running down to the foot of the island, even +to the shore. From the furrows made by this descending fire we could in +the daytime see great smokes arise, which probably were made by the +sulphureous matter thrown out of the funnel at the top which, tumbling +down to the bottom and there lying in a heap, burned till either consumed +or extinguished; and as long as it burned and kept its heat so long the +smoke ascended from it; which we perceived to increase or decrease, +according to the quantity of matter discharged from the funnel. But the +next night, being shot to the westward of the burning island, and the +funnel of it lying on the south side, we could not discern the fire there +as we did the smoke in the day when we were to the southward of it. This +volcano lies in the latitude of 5 degrees 33 minutes south, and meridian +distance from Cape St. George 332 miles west.</p> + +<p>NEW BRITAIN.</p> + +<p>The eastermost part of New Guinea lies 40 miles to the westward of this +tract of land, and by hydrographers they are made joining together: but +here I found an opening and passage between, with many islands; the +largest of which lie on the north side of this passage or strait. The +channel is very good, between the islands and the land to the eastward. +The east part of New Guinea is high and mountainous, ending on the +north-east with a large promontory, which I named King William's Cape in +honour of his present majesty. We saw some smokes on it; and, leaving it +on our larboard side, steered away near the east land which ends with two +remarkable capes or heads distant from each other about 6 or 7 leagues. +Within each head were two very remarkable mountains, ascending very +gradually from the seaside; which afforded a very pleasant and agreeable +prospect. The mountains and lower land were pleasantly mixed with +woodland and savannahs. The trees appeared very green and flourishing; +and the savannahs seemed to be very smooth and even; no meadow in England +appears more green in the spring than these. We saw smokes but did not +strive to anchor here; but rather chose to get under one of the islands +(where I thought I should find few or no inhabitants) that I might repair +my pinnace, which was so crazy that I could not venture ashore anywhere +with her. As we stood over to the islands we looked out very well to the +north, but could see no land that way; by which I was well assured that +we were got through, and that this east land does not join to New Guinea; +therefore I named it New Britain. The north-west cape I called Cape +Gloucester, and the south-west point Cape Anne; and the north-west +mountain, which is very remarkable, I called Mount Gloucester.</p> + +<p>This island which I called New Britain has about 4 degrees of latitude: +the body of it lying in 4 degrees and the northermost part in 2 degrees +30 minutes and the southermost in 6 degrees 30 minutes south. It has +about 5 degrees 18 minutes longitude from east to west. It is generally +high, mountainous land, mixed with large valleys; which as well as the +mountains appeared very fertile; and in most places that we saw the trees +are very large, tall and thick. It is also very well inhabited with +strong well-limbed negroes, whom we found very daring and bold at several +places. As to the product of it I know no more than what I have said in +my account of Port Montague: but it is very probable this island may +afford as many rich commodities as any in the world; and the natives may +be easily brought to commerce, though I could not pretend to it under my +present circumstances.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="dampier-nh2-14"></a><img alt="" src="images/dampier-nh2-14.jpg"></p> +<p><b>TABLE 13. DAMPIER'S PASSAGE AND ISLANDS ON THE COAST OF NEW GUINEA.</b></p> +</center> + +<p>SIR GEORGE ROOK'S ISLAND.</p> + +<p>Being near the island to the northward of the volcano I sent my boat to +sound, thinking to anchor here; but she returned and brought me word that +they had no ground, till they met with a reef of coral rocks about a mile +from the shore. Then I bore away to the north side of the island where we +found no anchoring neither. We saw several people, and some +coconut-trees, but could not send ashore for want of my pinnace which was +out of order. In the evening I stood off to sea to be at such a distance +that I might not be driven by any current upon the shoals of this island +if it should prove calm. We had but little wind, especially the beginning +of the night; but in the morning I found myself so far to the west of the +island that, the wind being at east-south-east, I could not fetch it; +wherefore I kept on to the southward and stemmed with the body of a high +island about 11 or 12 leagues long, lying to the southward of that which +I before designed for. I named this island Sir George Rook's Island.</p> + +<p>LONG ISLAND AND CROWN ISLAND, DISCOVERED AND DESCRIBED.</p> + +<p>We also saw some other islands to the westward; which may be better seen +in my chart of these lands than here described. But, seeing a very small +island lying to the north-west of the long island which was before us, +and not far from it, I steered away for that; hoping to find anchoring +there: and, having but little wind, I sent my boat before to sound; +which, when we were about 2 miles distance from the shore, came on board +and brought me word that there was good anchoring in 30 or 40 fathom +water, a mile from the isle and within a reef of the rocks which lay in a +half-moon, reaching from the north part of the island to the south-east: +so at noon we got in and anchored in 36 fathom a mile from the isle.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon I sent my boat ashore to the island to see what +convenience there was to haul our vessel ashore in order to be mended, +and whether we could catch any fish. My men in the boat rowed about the +island, but could not land by reason of the rocks and a great surge +running in upon the shore. We found variation here 8 degrees 25 minutes +west.</p> + +<p>I designed to have stayed among these islands till I had got my pinnace +refitted; but, having no more than one man who had skill to work upon +her, I saw she would be a long time in repairing (which was one great +reason why I could not prosecute my discoveries further) and, the +easterly winds being set in, I found I should scarce be able to hold my +ground.</p> + +<p>The 31st in the forenoon we shot in between 2 islands lying about 4 +leagues asunder; with intention to pass between them. The southermost is +a long island with a high hill at each end; this I named Long island. The +northermost is a round high island towering up with several heads or +tops, something resembling a crown; this I named Crown Isle from its +form. Both these islands appeared very pleasant, having spots of green +savannahs mixed among the woodland: the trees appeared very green and +flourishing, and some of them looked white and full of blossoms. We +passed close by Crown Isle; saw many coconut-trees on the bays and the +sides of the hills; and one boat was coming off from the shore but +returned again. We saw no smokes on either of the islands, neither did we +see any plantations; and it is probable they are not very well peopled. +We saw many shoals near Crown Island, and reefs of rocks running off from +the points a mile or more into the sea. My boat was once overboard with +design to have sent her ashore; but, having little wind and seeing some +shoals, I hoisted her in again and stood off out of danger.</p> + +<p>SIR R. RICH'S ISLAND.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon, seeing an island bearing north-west by west, we steered +away north-west by north, to be to the northward of it. The next morning, +being about midway from the islands we left yesterday, and having this to +the westward of us; the land of the main of New Guinea within us to the +southward appeared very high. When we came within 4 or 5 leagues of this +island to the west of us, 4 boats came off to view us: one came within +call, but returned with the other 3 without speaking to us: so we kept +on for the island which I named Sir R. Rich's Island. It was pretty high, +woody, and mixed with savannahs like those formerly mentioned. Being to +the north of it we saw an opening between it and another island 2 leagues +to the west of it, which before appeared all in one. The main seemed to +be high land, trending to the westward.</p> + +<p>A BURNING ISLAND.</p> + +<p>On Tuesday the 2nd of April about 8 in the morning we discovered a high +peaked island to the westward which seemed to smoke at its top. The next +day we passed by the north side of the burning island and saw a smoke +again at its top; but, the vent lying on the south side of the peak, we +could not observe it distinctly, nor see the fire. We afterwards opened 3 +more islands and some land to the southward, which we could not well tell +whether it were islands or part of the main. These islands are all high, +full of fair trees and spots of green savannahs; as well the burning isle +as the rest; but the burning isle was more round and peaked at top, very +fine land near the sea, and for two-thirds up it. We also saw another +isle sending forth a great smoke at once; but it soon vanished, and we +saw it no more. We saw also among these islands 3 small vessels with +sails, which the people on New Britain seem wholly ignorant of.</p> + +<p>A STRANGE SPOUT.</p> + +<p>The 11th at noon, having a very good observation, I found myself to the +northward of my reckoning; and thence concluded that we had a current +setting north-west, or rather more westerly, as the land lies. From that +time to the next morning we had fair clear weather and a fine moderate +gale from south-east to east by north: but at daybreak the clouds began +to fly, and it lightned very much in the east, south-east and north-east. +At sun-rising the sky looked very red in the east near the horizon; and +there were many black clouds both to the south and north of it. About a +quarter of an hour after the sun was up there was a squall to the +windward of us; when on a sudden one of our men on the forecastle called +out that he saw something astern, but could not tell what: I looked out +for it and immediately saw a spout beginning to work within a quarter of +a mile of us, exactly in the wind. We presently put right before it. It +came very swiftly, whirling the water up in a pillar about 6 or 7 yards +high. As yet I could not see any pendulous cloud from whence it might +come; and was in hopes it would soon lose its force. In 4 or 5 minutes +time it came within a cable's length of us and passed away to leeward; +and then I saw a long pale stream coming down to the whirling water. This +stream was about the bigness of a rainbow: the upper end seemed vastly +high, not descending from any dark cloud and therefore the most strange +to me; I never having seen the like before. It passed about a mile to +leeward of us and then broke. This was but a small spout, not strong nor +lasting; yet I perceived much wind in it as it passed by us. The current +still continued at north-west a little westerly, which I allowed to run a +mile per hour.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="dampier-nh2-15"></a><img alt="" src="images/dampier-nh2-15.jpg"></p> +<p><b>TABLE 14. ISLANDS ON THE COAST OF NEW GUINEA.</b></p> +</center> + +<p>A CONJECTURE CONCERNING A NEW PASSAGE SOUTHWARD.</p> + +<p>By an observation the 13th at noon I found myself 25 minutes to the +northward of my reckoning; whether occasioned by bad steerage, a bad +account, or a current, I could not determine; but was apt to judge it +might be a complication of all; for I could not think it was wholly the +current, the land here lying east by south, and west by north, or a +little more northerly and southerly. We had kept so nigh as to see it, +and at farthest had not been above 20 leagues from it, but sometimes much +nearer; and it is not probable that any current should set directly off +from a land. A tide indeed may; but then the flood has the same force to +strike in upon the shore as the ebb to strike off from it: but a current +must have set nearly alongshore either easterly or westerly; and if +anything northerly or southerly, it could be but very little in +comparison of its east or west course, on a coast lying as this doth; +which yet we did not perceive. If therefore we were deceived by a current +it is very probable that the land is here disjoined, and that there is a +passage through to the southward, and that the land from King William's +Cape to this place is an island, separated from New Guinea by some strait +as New Britain is by that which we came through. But this being at best +but a probable conjecture I shall insist no farther upon it.</p> + +<p>KING WILLIAM'S ISLAND.</p> + +<p>The 14th we passed by Schouten's Island and Providence Island, and found +still a very strong current setting to the north-west. On the 17th the we +saw a high mountain on the main that sent forth great quantities of smoke +from its top: this volcano we did not see in our voyage out. In the +afternoon we discovered King William's Island, and crowded all the sail +we could to get near it before night; thinking to lie to the eastward of +it till day, for fear of some shoals that lie at the west end of it. +Before night we got within 2 leagues of it and, having a fine gale of +wind and a light moon, I resolved to pass through in the night; which I +hoped to do before 12 o'clock if the gale continued; but when we came +within 2 miles of it it fell calm; yet afterwards, by the help of the +current, a small gale, and our boat, we got through before day. In the +night we had a very fragrant smell from the island.</p> + +<p>STRANGE WHIRLPOOLS.</p> + +<p>By morning-light we were got 2 leagues to the westward of it; and then +were becalmed all the morning; and met such whirling tides that when we +came into them the ship turned quite round; and though sometimes we had a +small gale of wind yet she could not feel the helm when she came into +these whirlpools: neither could we get from amongst them till a brisk +gale sprang up; yet we drove not much any way, but whirled round like a +top. And those whirlpools were not constant to one place, but drove about +strangely; and sometimes we saw among them large ripplings of the water, +like great overfalls, making a fearful noise. I sent my boat to sound but +found no ground.</p> + +<p>DISTANCE BETWEEN CAPE MABO AND CAPE ST. GEORGE COMPUTED.</p> + +<p>The 18th Cape Mabo bore south distance 9 leagues. By which account it +lies in the latitude of 50 minutes south and meridian distance from Cape +St. George 1243 miles. St. John's Isle lies 48 miles to the east of Cape +St. George; which, being added to the distance between Cape St. George +and Cape Mabo, makes 1291 meridional parts; which was the furthest that I +was to the east. In my outward-bound voyage I made meridian distance +between Cape Mabo and Cape St. George 1290 miles; and now in my return +but 1243; which is 47 short of my distance going out. This difference may +probably be occasioned by the strong western current which we found in +our return, which I allowed for after I perceived it; and though we did +not discern any current when we went to the eastward, except when near +the islands, yet it is probable we had one against us, though we did not +take notice of it because of the strong westerly winds. King William's +Island lies in the latitude of 21 minutes south, and may be seen +distinctly off of Cape Mabo.</p> + +<p>In the evening we passed by Cape Mabo; and afterwards steered away +south-east half east, keeping along the shore which here trends +south-easterly. The next morning, seeing a large opening in the land with +an island near the south side, I stood in, thinking to anchor there. When +we were shot in within 2 leagues of the island the wind came to the west, +which blows right into the opening. I stood to the north shore; +intending, when I came pretty nigh, to send my boat into the opening, and +sound before I would adventure in. We found several deep bays, but no +soundings within 2 miles of the shore; therefore I stood off again. Then, +seeing a rippling under our lee, I sent my boat to sound on it; which +returned in half an hour and brought me word that the rippling we saw was +only a tide, and that they had no ground there.</p> + +<center> +<p><img alt="" src="images/dampier-nh2-19.jpg"></p> +</center> + +<p><a name="ch5"></a></p> +<h3>CHAPTER 5.</h3> + +<h4>NAVIGATION AMONG THE ISLANDS.</h4> + +<p>THE AUTHOR'S RETURN FROM THE COAST OF NEW GUINEA.</p> + +<p>The wind seeming to incline to east, as might be expected according to +the season of the year, I rather chose to shape my course as these winds +would best permit than strive to return the same way we came; which, for +many leagues, must have been against this monsoon: though indeed, on the +other hand, the dangers in that way we already knew; but what might be in +this by which we now proposed to return we could not tell.</p> + +<p>A DEEP CHANNEL.</p> + +<p>We were now in a channel about 8 on 9 leagues wide, having a range of +islands on the north side, and another on the south side, and very deep +water between, so that we had no ground. The 22nd of April in the morning +I sent my boat ashore to an island on the north side, and stood that way +with the ship. They found no ground till within a cable's length of the +shore, and then had coral rocks; so that they could not catch any fish, +though they saw a great many. They brought aboard a small canoe, which +they found adrift. They met with no game ashore save only one +party-coloured parakeet. The land is of an indifferent height; very +rocky, yet clothed with tall trees, whose bare roots run along upon the +rocks. Our people saw a pond of salt-water but found no fresh. Near this +island we met a pretty strong tide but found neither tide nor current off +at some distance.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="dampier-nh2-16"></a><img alt="" src="images/dampier-nh2-16.jpg"></p> +<p><b>TABLE 15. GILOLO AND OTHER ISLANDS BETWEEN IT AND BOURO.</b></p> +</center> + +<p>On the 24th, being about 2 leagues from an island to the southward of us, +we came over a shoal on which we had but 5 fathom and a half. We did not +descry it till we saw the ground under us. In less than half an hour +before the boat had been sounding in discoloured water, but had no +ground. We manned the boat presently and towed the ship about; and then +sounding had 12, 15, and 17 fathom, and then no ground with our +hand-lead. The shoal was rocky; but in 12 and 15 fathom we had oazy +ground.</p> + +<p>STRANGE TIDES.</p> + +<p>We found here very strange tides that ran in streams, making a great sea; +and roaring so loud that we could hear them before they came within a +mile of us. The sea round about them seemed all broken, and tossed the +ship so that she would not answer her helm. These ripplings commonly +lasted 10 or 12 minutes, and then the sea became as still and smooth as a +mill-pond. We sounded often when in the midst of them, and afterwards in +the smooth water; but found no ground, neither could we perceive that +they drove us any way.</p> + +<p>We had in one night several of these tides that came most of them from +the west; and, the wind being from that quarter, we commonly heard them a +long time before they came; and sometimes lowered our topsails, thinking +it was a gust of wind. They were of great length from north to south, but +their breadth not exceeding 200 yards, and they drove a great pace: for +though we had little wind to move us, yet these would soon pass away and +leave the water very smooth, and just before we encountered them we met a +great swell but it did not break.</p> + +<p>THE ISLAND CERAM DESCRIBED.</p> + +<p>The 26th we saw the island Ceram; and still met some ripplings, but much +fainter than those we had the 2 preceding days. We sailed along the +island Ceram to the westward, edging in withal, to see if peradventure we +might find a harbour to anchor in where we might water, trim the ship, +and refresh our men.</p> + +<p>In the morning we saw a sail to the north of us, steering in for the west +end of Ceram, as we likewise were. In the evening, being near the shore +on the north side of the island, I stood off to sea with an easy sail; +intending to stand in for the shore in the morning, and try to find +anchoring to fill water, and get a little fish for refreshment. +Accordingly in the morning early I stood in with the north-west point of +Ceram; leaving a small island, called Bonao, to the west. The sail we saw +the day before was now come pretty nigh us, steering in also (as we did) +between Ceram and Bonao. I shortened sail a little for him; and when he +got abreast of us not above 2 miles off I sent my boat aboard. It was a +Dutch sloop, come from Ternate, and bound for Amboina: my men whom I sent +in the boat bought 5 bags of new rice, each containing about 130 pounds, +for 6 Spanish dollars. The sloop had many rare parrots aboard for sale +which did not want price. A Malayan merchant aboard told our men that +about 6 months ago he was at Bencola, and at that time the governor +either died or was killed, and that the commander of an English ship then +in that road succeeded to that government.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon, having a breeze at north and north-north-east, I sent +my boat to sound and, standing after her with the ship, anchored in 30 +fathom water oazy sand, half a mile from the shore, right against a small +river of fresh water. The next morning I sent both the boats ashore to +fish; they returned about 10 o'clock with a few mullets and 3 or 4 +cavallies, and some pan-fish. We found variation here 2 degrees 15 +minutes east.</p> + +<p>When the sea was smooth by the land-winds we sent our boats ashore for +water; who, in a few turns, filled all our casks.</p> + +<p>The land here is low, swampy and woody; the mould is a dark grey, friable +earth. Two rivers came out within a bow-shot of each other, just opposite +to the place where we rode: one comes right down out of the country; and +the other from the south, running along by the shore, not musket-shot +from the seaside. The northernmost river is biggest, and out of it we +filled our water; our boats went in and out at any time of tide. In some +places the land is overflown with fresh water, at full sea. The land +hereabouts is full of trees unknown to us, but none of them very large or +high; the woods yield many wild fruits and berries, such as I never saw +elsewhere. We met with no land animals.</p> + +<p>STRANGE FOWLS.</p> + +<p>The fowls we found were pigeons, parrots, cockadores, and a great number +of small birds unknown to me. One of the master's mates killed 2 fowls as +big as crows; of a black colour, excepting that the tails were all white. +Their necks were pretty long, one of which was of a saffron-colour, the +other black. They had very large bills much like a ram's horn; their legs +were strong and short, and their claws like a pigeon's; their wings of an +ordinary length: yet they make a great noise when they fly, which they do +very heavily. They feed on berries, and perch on the highest trees. Their +flesh is sweet; I saw some of the same species at New Guinea, but nowhere +else.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="dampier-nh2-17"></a><img alt="" src="images/dampier-nh2-17.jpg"></p> +<p><b>BIRDS OF NEW GUINEA.</b></p> +</center> + +<p>THE ISLANDS BONAO, BOURO, MISACOMBI, PENTARE, LAUBANA, AND POTORO.</p> + +<p>May the 3rd at 6 in the morning we weighed, intending to pass between +Bonao and Ceram; but presently after we got under sail we saw a pretty +large proa coming about the north-west point of Ceram. Wherefore I stood +to the north to speak with her, putting aboard our ensign. She, seeing us +coming that way, went into a small creek and skulked behind a point a +while: at last discovering her again I sent my boat to speak with her; +but the proa rowed away and would not come nigh it. After this, finding I +could not pass between Bonao and Ceram as I purposed, I steered away to +the north of it.</p> + +<p>This Bonao is a small island lying about 4 leagues from the north-west +point of Ceram. I was informed by the Dutch sloop before mentioned that, +notwithstanding its smallness, it has one fine river, and that the Dutch +are there settled. Whether there be any natives on it or not I know not, +nor what its produce is. They further said that the Ceramers were their +mortal enemies; yet that they were settled on the westermost point of +Ceram in spite of the natives.</p> + +<p>The next day as we approached the island Bouro there came off from it a +very fragrant scent, much like that from King William's Island; and we +found so strong a current setting to the westward that we could scarce +stem it. We plied to get to the southward, intending to pass between +Bouro and Keelang.</p> + +<p>In the evening, being near the west end of Bouro, we saw a brigantine to +the north-west of us, on the north side of Bouro, standing to the +eastward. I would not stand east or west for fear of coming nigh the land +which was on each side of us, namely Bouro on the west, and Keelang on +the east. The next morning we found ourselves in mid-channel between both +islands; and having the wind at south-west we steered south-south-east, +which is right through between both. At 11 o'clock it fell calm; and so +continued till noon; by that time the brigantine which we saw astern the +night before was got 2 or 3 leagues ahead of us. It is probable she met a +strong land-wind in the evening which continued all night; she keeping +nearer the shore than I could safely do. She might likewise have a tide +or current setting easterly, where she was; though we had a tide setting +northwardly against us, we being in mid-channel.</p> + +<p>About 8 at night the brigantine which we saw in the day came close along +by us on our weather-side: our guns were all ready before night, matches +lighted, and small arms on the quarter-deck ready loaded. She standing +one way and we another; we soon got further asunder. But I kept good +watch all the night and in the morning saw her astern of us, standing as +we did. At 10 o'clock, having little wind, I sent the yawl aboard of her. +She was a Chinese vessel laden with rice, arrack, tea, porcelain, and +other commodities, bound for Amboina. The commander said that his boat +was gone ashore for water, and asked our men if they saw her; for she had +been wanting for 2 or 3 days, and they knew not what was become of her. +They had their wives and children aboard, and probably came to settle at +some new Dutch factory. The commander also informed us that the Dutch had +lately settled at Ampoulo, Menippe, Bonao, and on a point of Ceram. The +next day we passed out to the southward between Keelang and Bouro. After +this we had for several days a current setting southerly, and a great +tumbling sea, occasioned more by the strong current than by winds, as was +apparent by the jumping of its waves against each other; and by +observation I found 25 miles more southing than our course gave us.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="dampier-nh2-18"></a><img alt="" src="images/dampier-nh2-18.jpg"></p> +<p><b>TABLE 16. BOURO AND OTHER ISLANDS BETWEEN IT AND AMBO.</b></p> +</center> + +<p>On the 14th we discovered the island Misacomba, and the next day sailed +along to the west on the north side of the island. In some charts it is +called Omba; it is a mountainous island, spotted with woods and +savannahs; about 20 leagues long and 5 or 6 broad. We saw no signs of +inhabitants on it. We fell in nearest to the west end of it; and +therefore I chose to pass on to the westward, intending to get through to +the southward between this and the next isle to the west of it, or +between any other 2 islands to the west, where I should meet with the +clearest passage; because the winds were now at north-east and +east-north-east, and the isle lies nearly east and west; so that if the +winds continued I might be a long time in getting to the east end of it, +which yet I knew to be the best passage. In the night, being at the west +end and seeing no clear passage, I stood off with an easy sail, and in +the morning had a fine land-wind, which would have carried us 5 or 6 +leagues to the east if we had made the best of it; but we kept on only +with a gentle gale for fear of a westerly current. In the morning, +finding we had not met with any current as we expected, as soon as it was +light we made sail to the westward again.</p> + +<p>After noon, being near the end of the isle Pentare which lies west from +Misacomba, we saw many houses and plantations in the country, and many +coconut-trees growing by the seaside. We also saw several boats sailing +across a bay or channel at the west end of Misacomba, between it and +Pentare. We had but little wind, and that at north, which blows right in +with a swell rolling in withal; wherefore I was afraid to venture in, +though probably there might be good anchoring and a commerce with the +natives. I continued steering to the west, because, the night before at +sun-setting, I saw a small round high island to the west of Pentare, +where I expected a good passage.</p> + +<p>THE PASSAGE BETWEEN PENTARE AND LAUBANA.</p> + +<p>We could not that day reach the west end of Pentare, but saw a deep bay +to the west of us, where I thought might be a passage through, between +Pentare and Laubana. But as yet the lands were shut one within another, +that we could not see any passage. Therefore I ordered to sail 7 leagues +more westerly, and lie by till next day. In the morning we looked out for +an opening but could see none; yet by the distance and bearing of a high +round island called Potoro, we were got to the west of the opening, but +not far from it. Wherefore I tacked and stood to the east, and the +rather, because I had reason to suppose this to be the passage we came +through in the Cygnet mentioned in my Voyage round the World; but I was +not yet sure of it because we had rainy weather, so that we could not now +see the land so well as we did then. We then accidentally saw the opening +at our first falling in with the islands; which now was a work of some +time and difficul to discover. However before 10 o'clock we saw the +opening plain; and I was the more confirmed in my knowledge of this +passage by a spit of sand and 2 islands at the north-east part of its +entrance. The wind was at south-south-west and we plied to get through +before night; for we found a good tide helping us to the south. About 7 +or 8 leagues to the west of us we saw a high round peaked mountain, from +whose top a smoke seemed to ascend as from a volcano. There were 3 other +very high peaked mountains, 2 on the east and one on the west of that +which smoked.</p> + +<p>In our plying to get through between Pentare and Laubana we had (as I +said) a good tide or current setting us to the southward. And it is to be +observed that near the shores in these parts we commonly find a tide +setting northwardly or southwardly as the land lies; but the northwardly +tide sets not above 3 hours in 12, having little strength; and sometimes +it only checks the contrary current which runs with great violence, +especially in narrow passes such as this between 2 islands. It was 12 at +night before we got clear of 2 other small islands that lay on the south +side of the passage; and there we had a very violent tide setting us +through against a brisk gale of wind. Notwithstanding which I kept the +pinnace out, for fear we should be becalmed. For this is the same place +through which I passed in the year 1687, mentioned in my Voyage round the +World, only then we came out between the western small island and +Laubana, and now we came through between the two small islands. We +sounded frequently but had no ground. I said there that we came through +between Omba and Pentare: for we did not then see the opening between +those 2 islands; which made me take the west side of Pentare for the west +end of Omba, and Laubana for Pentare. But now we saw the opening between +Omba and Pentare; which was so narrow that I would not venture through: +besides I had now discovered my mistake, and hoped to meet with the other +passage again, as indeed we did, and found it to be bold from side to +side, which in the former voyage I did not know.</p> + +<p>THE ISLAND TIMOR.</p> + +<p>After we were through we made the best of our way to Timor, and on May +the 18th in the morning we saw it plain, and made the high land over +Laphao the Portuguese factory, as also the high peak over our first +watering-place, and a small round island about midway between them.</p> + +<p>We coasted along the island Timor, intending to touch at Babao, to get a +little water and refreshments. I would not go into the bay where we first +watered, because of the currents which there whirl about very strangely, +especially at spring tides which were now setting in; besides, the +south-east winds come down in flaws from the mountains, so that it would +have been very dangerous for us.</p> + +<p>BABAO BAY.</p> + +<p>Wherefore we crowded all the sail we could to get to Babao before night, +or at least to get sight of the sandy island at the entrance of the bay; +but could not. So we plied all night; and the next morning entered the +bay.</p> + +<p>There being good ground all over this bay we anchored at 2 o'clock in 30 +fathom water, soft oazy ground. And the morning after I sent my boat +ashore with the seine to fish. At noon she returned and brought enough +for all the ship's company. They saw an Indian boat at a round rocky +island about a mile from them.</p> + +<p>On the 22nd I sent my boat ashore again to fish: at noon she returned +with a few fish, which served me and my officers. They caught one +whiting, the first I had seen in these seas. Our people went over to the +rocky island and there found several jars of turtle, and some hanging up +a-drying, and some cloths; their boat was about a mile off, striking +turtle. Our men left all as they found. In the afternoon a very large +shark came under our stern; I never had seen any near so big before. I +put a piece of meat on a hook for him but he went astern and returned no +more. About midnight, the wind being pretty moderate, I weighed and stood +into the bottom of the bay, and ran over nearer the south shore, where I +thought to lie and water, and at convenient times get fish for our +refreshment. The next morning I sent my pinnace with 2 hogsheads and 10 +barrecoes for water; they returned at noon with the casks full of water; +very thick and muddy, but sweet and good. We found variation 15 minutes +west.</p> + +<p>THE ISLAND ROTI.</p> + +<p>This afternoon, finding that the breezes were set in here, and that it +blew so hard that I could neither fish nor fill water without much +difficulty and hazard of the boat; I resolved to be gone, having good +quantity of water aboard. Accordingly at half an hour after 2 in the +morning we weighed with the wind at east by south, and stood to sea. We +coasted along by the island Roti which is high land, spotted with woods +and savannahs. The trees appeared small and shrubby, and the savannahs +dry and rusty. All the north side has sandy bays by the sea. We saw no +houses nor plantations.</p> + +<p>MORE ISLANDS THAN ARE COMMONLY LAID DOWN IN THE CHARTS. GREAT CURRENTS.</p> + +<p>The next day we crowded all the sail we could to get to the west of all +the isles before night but could not; for at 6 in the evening we saw land +bearing south-west by west. For here are more islands than are laid down +in any charts that I have seen. Wherefore I was obliged to make a more +westerly course than I intended till I judged we might be clear of the +land. And when we were so I could easily perceive by the ship's motion. +For till then, being under the lee of the shore, we had smooth water; but +now we had a troubled sea which made us dance lustily. This turbulent sea +was occasioned in part by the current; which, setting out slanting +against the wind, was by it raised into short cockling seas. I did indeed +expect a south-west current here but not so very strong as we found it.</p> + +<p>On the 26th we continued to have a very strong current setting +southwardly; but on what point exactly I know not. Our whole distance by +log was but 82 miles, and our difference of latitude since yesterday noon +by observation 100 miles, which is 18 miles more than the whole distance; +and our course, allowing no leeway at all, was south 17 degrees west, +which gives but 76 miles difference of latitude, 24 less than we found by +observation. I did expect (as has been said) we might meet a great +current setting to the south yesterday, because there is a constant +current setting out from among those islands we passed through between +Timor and the isles to the west of it, and it is probable, in all the +other openings between the islands, even from the east end of Java to the +end of all that range that runs from thence, both to the east and west of +Timor; but, being got so far out to sea as we were, though there may be a +very great current, yet it does not seem probable to me that it should be +of so great strength as we now found: for both currents and tides lose +their force in the open sea where they have room to spread; and it is +only in narrow places or near headlands that their force is chiefly felt. +Besides, in my opinion, it should here rather set to the west than south; +being open to the narrow sea that divides New Holland from the range of +islands before mentioned.</p> + +<p>The 27th we found that in the last 24 hours we had gone 9 miles less +south than the log gave: so that it is probable we were then out of the +southern current which we felt so much before. We saw many tropic-birds +about us. And found variation 1 degree 25 minutes west.</p> + +<p>WHALES.</p> + +<p>On June the 1st we saw several whales, the first we had at this time seen +on the coast: but when we were here before we saw many; at which time we +were nearer the shore than now. The variation now was 5 degrees 38 +minutes west.</p> + +<p>COAST OF NEW HOLLAND.</p> + +<p>I designed to have made New Holland in about the latitude of 20 degrees, +and steered courses by day to make it, but in the night could not be so +bold; especially since we had sounding. This afternoon I steered in +south-west till 6 o'clock; then, it blowing fresh and night coming on, I +steered west-south-west till we had 40 fathom; and then stood west, which +course carries alongshore. In the morning again from 6 to 12 I steered +west-south-west to have made the land but, not seeing it, I judged we +were to the west of it. Here is very good soundings on this coast. When +we passed this way to the eastward we had, near this latitude of 19 +degrees 50 minutes 38 fathom, about 18 leagues from the land: but this +time we saw not the land. The next morning I saw a great many +scuttle-fish bones which was a sign that we were not far from the land. +Also a great many weeds continually floating by us.</p> + +<p>We found the variation increase considerably as we went westward. For on +the 3rd it was 6 degrees 10 minutes west; on the 4th, 6 degrees 20 +minutes, and on the 6th, 7 degrees 20 minutes. That evening we saw some +fowls like men-of-war-birds flying north-east, as I was told; for I did +not see them, having been indisposed these 3 or 4 days.</p> + +<p>THE TRYAL ROCKS.</p> + +<p>On the 11th we found the variation 8 degrees 1 minute west; on the 12th, +6 degrees 0 minutes. I kept on my course to the westward till the 15th, +and then altered it. My design was to seek for the Tryal Rocks; but, +having been sick 5 or 6 days without any fresh provision or other good +nourishment aboard, and seeing no likelihood of my recovery, I rather +chose to go to some port in time than to beat here any longer; my people +being very negligent when I was not upon deck myself; I found the winds +variable, so that I might go any way, east, west, north, or south; +wherefore it is probable I might have found the said rocks had not +sickness prevented me; which discovery (whenever made) will be of great +use to merchants trading to these parts.</p> + +<p>THE COAST OF JAVA. PRINCES ISLE. STRAITS OF SUNDA. THWART-THE-WAY ISLAND.</p> + +<p>From hence nothing material happened till we came upon the coast of Java. +On the 23rd we saw Princes Isle plain, and the mouth of the Straits of +Sunda. By my computation the distance between Timor and Princes Isle is +14 degrees 22 minutes. The next day in the afternoon, being abreast of +Crockadore Island, I steered away east-north-east for an island that lies +near midway between Sumatra and Java but nearest the Java shore; which is +by Englishmen called Thwart-the-way. We had but small winds till about 3 +o'clock when it freshened, and I was in good hopes to pass through before +day: but at 9 o'clock the wind fell and we got but little. I was then +abreast of Thwart-the-way, which is a pretty high long island; but before +11 the wind turned, and presently afterward it fell calm. I was then +about 2 leagues from the said island; and, having a strong current +against us, before day we were driven astern 4 or 5 leagues. In the +morning we had the wind at north-north-west; it looked black and the wind +unsettled: so that I could not expect to get through. I therefore stood +toward the Java shore, and at 10 anchored in 24 fathom water, black oazy +ground, 3 leagues from the shore. I sounded in the night when it was +calm, and had 54 fathom, coarse sand and coral.</p> + +<p>INDIAN PROAS, AND THEIR TRAFFIC.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon before we had seen many proas; but none came off to us; +and in the night we saw many fires ashore. This day a large proa came +aboard of us, and lay by our side an hour. There were only 4 men in her, +all Javians, who spoke the Malayan language. They asked if we were +English; I answered we were; and presently one of them came aboard and +presented me with a small hen, some eggs and coconuts; for which I gave +some beads and a small looking-glass, and some glass bottles. They also +gave me some sugarcane, which I distributed to such of my men as were +scorbutic. They told me there were 3 English ships at Batavia.</p> + +<p>The 28th at 2 in the afternoon we anchored in 26 fathom water; presently +it fell calm and began to rain very violently and so continued from 3 +till 9 in the evening. At 1 in the morning we weighed with a fine +land-wind at south-south-east; but presently, the wind coming about at +east, we anchored; for we commonly found the current setting west. If at +any time it turned it was so weak that it did us little good; and I did +not think it safe to venture through without a pretty brisk leading gale; +for the passage is but narrow, and I knew not what dangers might be in +the way, nor how the tide sets in the narrow, having not been this way +these 28 years, and all my people wholly strangers: we had the opening +fair before us.</p> + +<p>PASSAGE THROUGH THE STRAIT.</p> + +<p>While we lay here 4 Malayan proas came from the shore, laden with +coconuts, plantains, bananas, fowls, ducks, tobacco, sugar, etc. These +were very welcome, and we purchased much refreshment of them. At 10 +o'clock I dismissed all the boats, and weighed with the wind at +north-west. At half an hour past 6 in the evening we anchored in 32 +fathom water in a coarse sort of oaze. We were now past the island +Thwart-the-way, but had still one of the small islands to pass. The tide +began to run strong to the west; which obliged me to anchor while I had +soundings, for fear of being driven back again or on some unknown sand. I +lay still all night. At 5 o'clock the next morning the tide began to +slacken: at 6 I weighed with the wind at south-east by east, a handsome +breeze. We just weathered the Button; and, sounding several times, had +still between 30 and 40 fathom. When we were abreast of the Button, and +about 2 leagues from the westermost point of Java, we had 34 fathom, +small peppery sand. You may either come between this island and Java, or, +if the wind is northerly, run out between the island Thwart-the-way and +this last small island.</p> + +<p>The wind for the most part being at east and east by south I was obliged +to run over towards the Sumatra shore, sounding as I went, and had from +34 to 23 fathom. In the evening I sounded pretty quick, being got near +the Sumatra shore; and, finding a current setting to the west between 8 +and 9 o'clock, we anchored in 34 fathom. The tide set to the west from 7 +in the evening to 7 this morning; and then, having a small gale at +west-south-west, I weighed and stood over to the Java shore.</p> + +<p>In the evening, having the wind between east-north-east and south-east by +east, we could not keep off the Java shore. Wherefore I anchored in 27 +fathom water, about a league and a half off shore. At the same time we +saw a ship at anchor near the shore, about 2 mile to leeward of us. We +found the tide setting to the westward, and presently after we anchored +it fell calm. We lay still all night and saw many fires ashore. At 5 the +next morning, being July the 1st, we weighed and stood to the north for a +seabreeze: at 10, the wind coming out, I tacked and had a fine brisk +gale. The ship we saw at anchor weighed also and stood after us. While we +passed by Pulo Baby I kept sounding and had no less than 14 fathom. The +other ship, coming after us with all the sail she could make, I shortened +sail on purpose that she might overtake us but she did not. A little +after 5 I anchored in 13 fathom good oazy ground. About 7 in the evening +the ship that followed us passed by close under our stern; she was a +Dutch fly-boat; they told us they came directly from Holland, and had +been in their passage six months. It was now dark, and the Dutch ship +anchored within a mile of us. I ordered to look out sharp in the morning; +that so soon as the Dutchman began to move we might be ready to follow +him; for I intended to make him my pilot. In the morning at half an hour +after 5 we weighed, the Dutchman being under sail before; and we stood +directly after him. At 8, having but little wind, I sent my boat aboard +of him to see what news he had brought from Europe. Soon after we spied a +ship coming from the east, plying on a wind to speak with us, and showing +English colours. I made a signal for my boat, and presently bore away +towards her; and, being pretty nigh, the commander and supercargo came +aboard, supposing we had been the Tuscany galley which was expected then +at Batavia. This was a country ship belonging to Fort St. George, having +come out from Batavia the day before, and bound to Bencola. The commander +told me that the Fleet frigate was at anchor in Batavia Road, but would +not stay there long: he told me also that His Majesty's ships commanded +by Captain Warren were still in India, but he had been a great while from +the coast and had not seen them. He gave me a chart of these straits from +the Button and Cap to Batavia, and showed me the best way in thither. At +11 o'clock, it being calm, I anchored in 14 fathom good oazy ground.</p> + +<p>ARRIVAL AT BATAVIA.</p> + +<p>At 2 o'clock we weighed again; the Dutch ship being under sail before, +standing close to Mansheters Island; but, finding he could not weather +it, he tacked and stood off a little while, and then tacked again. In the +meantime I stood pretty nigh the said island, sounding, but could not +weather it. Then I tacked and stood off, and the Dutch stood in towards +the island; and weathered it. I, being desirous to have room enough, +stood off longer and then went about, having the Dutch ship 4 points +under my lee. I kept after him; but as I came nearer the island I found a +tide setting to the west, so that I could not weather it. Wherefore at 6 +in the evening I anchored in 7 fathom oazy ground, about a mile from the +island: the Dutch ship went about 2 miles further, and anchored also; and +we both lay still all night. At 5 the next morning we weighed again, and +the Dutch ship stood away between the island Cambusses and the main; but +I could not follow because we had a land-wind. Wherefore I went without +the Cambusses, and by noon we saw the ships that lay at the careening +island near Batavia. After the land-wind was spent, which we had at +south-east and south-south-east, the seabreeze came up at east. Then we +went about; and, the wind coming afterward at east-north-east, we had a +large wind to run us into Batavia Road: and at 4 in the afternoon we +anchored in 6 fathom soft oaze.</p> + +<center> +<p><img alt="" src="images/dampier-nh2-19.jpg"></p> +</center> + +<p><a name="ch6"></a></p> +<h3>CHAPTER 6.</h3> + +<h4>HOME VOYAGE AND LOSS OF SHIP.</h4> + +<p>THE AUTHOR CONTINUES IN BATAVIA ROAD TO REFIT, TO GET PROVISIONS.</p> + +<p>We found in Batavia Road a great many ships at anchor, most Dutch, and +but one English ship named the Fleet frigate, commanded by one Merry. We +rode a little without them all. Near the shore lay a stout China junk, +and a great many small vessels, namely brigantines, sloops and Malayan +proas in abundance. As soon as I anchored I sent my boat aboard the Fleet +frigate with orders to make them strike their pennant, which was done +soon after the boat went aboard. Then my clerk, whom I sent in the boat, +went for the shore, as I had directed him, to see if the government would +answer my salute: but it was now near night, and he had only time to +speak with the ship-bander, who told him that the government would have +answered my salute with the same number of guns if I had fired as soon as +I anchored; but that now it was too late. In the evening my boat came +aboard and the next morning I myself went ashore, visited the Dutch +general, and desired the privilege of buying such provision and stores as +I now wanted; which he granted me.</p> + +<p>I lay here till the 17th of October following, all which time we had very +fair weather, some tornadoes excepted. In the meantime I supplied the +carpenter with such stores as were necessary for refitting the ship; +which proved more leaky after he had caulked her than she was before: so +that I was obliged to careen her, for which purpose I hired vessels to +take in our guns, ballast, provision and stores.</p> + +<p>ENGLISH SHIPS THEN IN THE ROAD.</p> + +<p>The English ships that arrived here from England were first the Liampo, +commanded by Captain Monk, bound for China; next the Panther commanded by +Captain Robinson; then the Mancel frigate, commanded by Captain Clerk. +All these brought good tidings from England. Most of them had been +unfortunate in their officers; especially Captain Robinson, who said that +some of them had been conspiring to ruin him and his voyage. There came +in also several English country vessels; first a sloop from Benjarr, +commanded by one Russel, bound to Bengal, next the Monsoon, belonging to +Bengal: she had been at Malacca at the same time that His Majesty's ship +the Harwich was there: afterwards came in also another small ship from +Bengal.</p> + +<p>While we stayed here all the forenamed English ships sailed hence; the 2 +Bengal ships excepted. Many Dutch ships also came in here, and departed +again before us. We had several reports concerning our men-of-war in +India, and much talk concerning rovers who had committed several spoils +upon the coast and in the Straits of Malacca. I did not hear of any ships +sent out to quash them. At my first coming in I was told that 2 ships had +been sent from Amboina in quest of me; which was lately confirmed by one +of the skippers, whom I by accident met with here. He told me they had 3 +protests against me; that they came to Pulo Sabuda on the coast of New +Guinea 28 days after my departure thence, and went as far as Schouten's +Island and, hearing no further news of me, returned. Something likewise +to this purpose Mr. Merry, commander of the Fleet frigate, told me at my +first arrival here; and that the general at Batavia had a copy of my +commission and instructions; but I looked upon it as a very improbable +thing.</p> + +<p>While we lay here the Dutch held several consultations about sending some +ships for Europe sooner than ordinary: at last the 16th of October was +agreed upon for the day of sailing, which is 2 months sooner than usual. +They lay ready 2 or 3 days before, and went out on the 10th. Their names +were the Ostresteen, bound to Zealand; the Vanheusen, for Enchiehoust; +and the 3 Crowns, for Amsterdam, commanded by skipper Jacob Uncright, who +was commodore over all the rest. I had by this time finished my business +here, namely fitted the ship, recruited myself with provision, filled all +my water; and, the time of the year to be going for Europe being now at +hand, I prepared to be gone also.</p> + +<p>DEPARTURE FROM BATAVIA.</p> + +<p>Accordingly on the 17th of October, at half an hour after 6 in the +morning, I weighed anchor from Batavia, having a good land-wind at south, +and fair weather: and by the 19th at noon came up with the 3 Dutch ships +before mentioned. The 29th of November in the morning we saw a small hawk +flying about the ship till she was quite tired. Then she rested on the +mizzen-topsail-yard, where we caught her. It is probable she was blown +off from Madagascar by the violent northerly winds; that being the +nighest land to us, though distance near 150 leagues.</p> + +<p>1701.</p> + +<p>TOUCH AT THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.</p> + +<p>The 30th December we arrived at the Cape of Good Hope and departed again +on the 11th of January, 1701. About the end of the month we saw abundance +of weeds or blubber swim by us, for I cannot determine which. It was all +of one shape and colour. As they floated on the water they seemed to be +of the breadth of the palm of a man's hand, spread out round into many +branches about the bigness of a man's finger. They had in the middle a +little knob, no bigger than the top of a man's thumb. They were of a +smoke-colour; and the branches, by their pliantness in the water, seemed +to be more simple than jellies, I have not seen the like before.</p> + +<p>AND AT ST. HELENA.</p> + +<p>The 2nd of February we anchored in St. Helena Road and set sail again +from thence on the 13th.</p> + +<p>ARRIVAL AT THE ISLAND OF ASCENSION. A LEAK SPRUNG.</p> + +<p>On the 21st we made the island of Ascension and stood in towards it. The +22nd between 8 and 9 o'clock we sprung a leak which increased so that the +chain-pump could not keep the ship free. Whereupon I set the hand-pump to +work also, and by 10 o'clock sucked her: then wore the ship, and stood to +the southward to try if that would ease her; and then the chain-pump just +kept her free. At 5 the next morning we made sail and stood in for the +bay; and at 9 anchored in 10 and a half fathom, sandy ground. The south +point bore south-south-west distance 2 miles, and the north point of the +bay north-east half north, distance 2 miles. As soon as we anchored I +ordered the gunner to clear his powder-room that we might there search +for the leak and endeavour to stop it within board if possible; for we +could not heel the ship so low, it being within 4 streaks of the keel; +neither was there any convenient place to haul her ashore. I ordered the +boatswain to assist the gunner; and by 10 o'clock the powder-room was +clear. The carpenter's mate, gunner, and boatswain went down; and soon +after I followed them myself and asked them whether they could come at +the leak: they said they believed they might, but cutting the ceiling; I +told the carpenter's mate (who was the only person in the ship that +understood anything of carpenter's work) that if he thought he could come +at the leak by cutting the ceiling without weakening the ship he might do +it, for he had stopped one leak so before; which though not so big as +this, yet, having seen them both, I thought he might as well do this as +the other. Wherefore I left him to do his best. The ceiling being cut, +they could not come at the leak; for it was against one of the +foot-hook-timbers which the carpenter's mate said he must first cut +before it could be stopped. I went down again to see it, and found the +water to come in very violently. I told them I never had known any such +thing as cutting timbers to stop leaks; but if they who ought to be best +judges in such cases thought they could do any good I bid them use their +utmost care and diligence, promising the carpenter's mate that I would +always be a friend to him if he could and would stop it: he said by 4 +o'clock in the afternoon he would make all well, it being then about 11 +in the forenoon. In the afternoon my men were all employed, pumping with +both pumps; except such as assisted the carpenter's mate. About one in +the afternoon I went down again and the carpenter's mate was cutting the +after-part of the timber over the leak. Some said it was best to cut the +timber away at once; I bid them hold their tongue and let the carpenter's +mate alone; for he knew best and I hoped he would do his utmost to stop +the leak. I desired him to get everything ready for stopping the violence +of the water, before he cut any further; for fear it should overpower us +at once. I had already ordered the carpenter to bring all the oakum he +had, and the boatswain to bring all the waste cloths to stuff in upon +occasion; and had for the same purpose sent down my own bedclothes. The +carpenter's mate said he should want short stanchions to be placed so +that the upper end should touch the deck, and the under-part rest on what +was laid over the leak; and presently took a length for them. I asked the +master-carpenter what he thought best to be done: he replied till the +leak was all open, he could not tell. Then he went away to make a +stanchion, but it was too long: I ordered him to make many of several +lengths, that we might not want of any size. So once more desiring the +carpenter's mate to use his utmost endeavours I went up, leaving the +boatswain and some others there. About 5 o'clock the boatswain came to me +and told me the leak was increased, and that it was impossible to keep +the ship above water; when on the contrary I expected to have had the +news of the leak's being stopped. I presently went down and found the +timber cut away, but nothing in readiness to stop the force of the water +from coming in. I asked them why they would cut the timber before they +had got all things in readiness: the carpenter's mate answered they could +do nothing till the timber was cut that he might take the dimensions of +the place; and that there was a caulk which he had lined out, preparing +by the carpenter's boy. I ordered them in the meantime to stop in oakum, +and some pieces of beef; which accordingly was done, but all to little +purpose: for now the water gashed in with such violence, notwithstanding +all our endeavours to check it, that it flew in over the ceiling; and for +want of passage out of the room overflowed it above 2 foot deep. I +ordered the bulkhead be cut open, to give passage to the water that it +might drain out of the room; and withal ordered to clear away abaft the +bulkhead, that we might bail: so now we had both pumps going and as many +bailing as could; and by this means the water began to decrease; which +gave me some hope of saving the ship. I asked the carpenter's mate what +he thought of it; he said "Fear not; for by 10 o'clock at night I'll +engage to stop the leak." I went from him with a heavy heart; but, +putting a good countenance upon the matter, encouraged my men, who pumped +and bailed very briskly; and when I saw occasion I gave them some drams +to comfort them. About 11 o'clock at night the boatswain came to me and +told me that the leak still increased; and that the plank was so rotten +it broke away like dirt; and that now it was impossible to save the ship; +for they could not come at the leak because the water in the room was got +above it. The rest of the night we spent in pumping and bailing. I worked +myself to encourage my men, who were very diligent; but the water still +increased, and we now thought of nothing but saving our lives. Wherefore +I hoisted out the boat that, if the ship should sink, yet we might be +saved: and in the morning we weighed our anchor and warped in nearer the +shore; yet did but little good.</p> + +<p>WHICH BEING IMPOSSIBLE TO BE STOPPED, THE SHIP IS LOST, BUT THE MEN SAVED.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon with the help of a seabreeze I ran into 7 fathom and +anchored; then carried a small anchor ashore and warped in till I came +into 3 fathom and a half. Where having fastened her I made a raft to +carry the men's chests and bedding ashore; and before 8 at night most of +them were ashore. In the morning I ordered the sails to be unbent, to +make tents; and then myself and officers went ashore. I had sent ashore a +puncheon and a 36 gallon cask of water with one bag of rice for our +common use: but great part of it was stolen away before I came ashore, +and many of my books and papers lost.</p> + +<p>THEY FIND WATER UPON THE ISLAND.</p> + +<p>On the 26th following we, to our great comfort, found a spring of fresh +water about 8 miles from our tents, beyond a very high mountain which we +must pass over: so that now we were, by God's Providence, in a condition +of subsisting some time; having plenty of very good turtle by our tents, +and water for the fetching. The next day I went up to see the +watering-place, accompanied with most of my officers. We lay by the way +all night and next morning early got thither; where we found a very fine +spring on the south-east side of the high mountain, about half a mile +from its top: but the continual fogs make it so cold here that it is very +unwholesome living by the water. Near this place are abundance of goats +and land-crabs. About 2 mile south-east from the spring we found 3 or 4 +shrubby trees, upon one of which was cut an anchor and cable, and the +year 1642. About half a furlong from these we found a convenient place +for sheltering men in any weather. Hither many of our men resorted; the +hollow rocks affording convenient lodging; the goats, land-crabs, +men-of-war-birds and boobies good food; and the air was here exceeding +wholesome.</p> + +<p>AND ARE BROUGHT BACK TO ENGLAND.</p> + +<p>About a week after our coming ashore our men that lived at this new +habitation saw two ships making towards the island. Before night they +brought me the news; and I ordered them to turn about a score of turtle +to be in readiness for their ships if they should touch here: but before +morning they were out of sight, and the turtle were released again. Here +we continued without seeing any other ship till the second of April; when +we saw 11 sail to windward of the island: but they likewise passed by. +The day after appeared 4 sail, which came to anchor in this bay. They +were His Majesty's ships the Anglesey, Hastings and Lizard; and the +Canterbury East India ship. I went on board the Anglesey with about 35 of +my men; and the rest were disposed of into the other 2 men-of-war.</p> + +<p>We sailed from Ascension the 8th; and continued aboard till the 8th of +May: at which time the men-of-war, having missed St. Jago, where they +designed to water, bore away for Barbados: but I being desirous to get to +England as soon as possible took my passage in the ship Canterbury, +accompanied with my master, purser, gunner, and 3 of my superior +officers.</p> + +<hr align="center" width="50%"> + +<h3>INDEX.</h3> + +<p>Anabao Island: +its inhabitants.</p> + +<p>Ascension Island: +water found there.</p> + +<p>Babao in Timor.</p> + +<p>Batavia: +arrival there. +its road. +English ships there. +departure from thence.</p> + +<p>Bird Island.</p> + +<p>Birds, strange.</p> + +<p>Bonao Island.</p> + +<p>Bouro Island.</p> + +<p>Britain, New.</p> + +<p>Bird (strange) killed on the coast of New Guinea.</p> + +<p>Burning island.</p> + +<p>Burning island, another described.</p> + +<p>Calabash-trees.</p> + +<p>Calalaloo, herb.</p> + +<p>Cana-fistula-tree described.</p> + +<p>Cape Orford in New Guinea.</p> + +<p>Cape of Good Hope in New Guinea.</p> + +<p>Cave's, Anthony, Island.</p> + +<p>Cape, King William's.</p> + +<p>Cape and Port Gloucester.</p> + +<p>Cape Anne.</p> + +<p>Ceram Island described.</p> + +<p>Channel, a deep one.</p> + +<p>Ciccale, Port.</p> + +<p>Cockles, very big.</p> + +<p>Cockle-merchant, a fish.</p> + +<p>Cockle Island on the coast of New Guinea.</p> + +<p>Cupang Bay in Timor (see Kupang).</p> + +<p>Cross Island, discovered and described.</p> + +<p>Currents (see Tides).</p> + +<p>Distance between Cape Mabo and Cape St. George computed.</p> + +<p>Dutch: +the author's parley with them. +their suspicion of the author.</p> + +<p>Charts (Dutch), their falseness.</p> + +<p>Dutch fort called Concordia.</p> + +<p>Ende Island.</p> + +<p>Fetter Island.</p> + +<p>Figtrees of Timor described.</p> + +<p>Fish, strange.</p> + +<p>Fowls, strange.</p> + +<p>Gerrit Denis (Garret Dennis) Island, inhabitants described.</p> + +<p>Jelly found in the sea.</p> + +<p>George, St.: +Cape and Bay in New Guinea. +another bay. +the inhabitants there. +a large account of the author's attempt to trade with them.</p> + +<p>New Guinea coast: +inhabitants. +their manner of fishing. +the author departs from New Guinea.</p> + +<p>Java Island.</p> + +<p>Indian plantation on the island Timor.</p> + +<p>Indian proas and their traffic.</p> + +<p>John's, St., Island.</p> + +<p>King William's Island.</p> + +<p>Laphao in Timor.</p> + +<p>Laubana Island.</p> + +<p>Leak sprung, incurable.</p> + +<p>Long Island described.</p> + +<p>Lorantuca.</p> + +<p>Mabo, Cape.</p> + +<p>Man-of-war-birds.</p> + +<p>Mansheter's Island.</p> + +<p>Matthias Island.</p> + +<p>Misacomba Island.</p> + +<p>Montague: +Port in New Guinea. +the country thereabouts described and its produce.</p> + +<p>New Guinea.</p> + +<p>Nova Britannia, (see New Britain).</p> + +<p>Omba Island.</p> + +<p>Palmtrees: +a new one conjectured. +a new one discovered. +two sorts described.</p> + +<p>Parley with the Portuguese at Timor.</p> + +<p>Pentare Island.</p> + +<p>Pigeons, great numbers of them on the coast of New Guinea.</p> + +<p>Porta Nova.</p> + +<p>Providence Island.</p> + +<p>Princes Isle.</p> + +<p>Pulo Subada Isle.</p> + +<p>Pulo Baby.</p> + +<p>Return (the author's) to England.</p> + +<p>Rich's (Sir R.) Island.</p> + +<p>Ringing-bird.</p> + +<p>Rook's (Sir George) Island.</p> + +<p>Roti (Rotee) Island.</p> + +<p>Rosemary Island.</p> + +<p>Sago, how made.</p> + +<p>Sandal-tree.</p> + +<p>Schouten's Island.</p> + +<p>Sesial Port in Timor.</p> + +<p>Shark's Bay.</p> + +<p>Ship lost.</p> + +<p>Slingers Bay.</p> + +<p>Snakes: +land-snakes.</p> + +<p>Spout.</p> + +<p>Squally Island.</p> + +<p>Sunda Straits.</p> + +<p>Terra Australis Incognita, what to be expected there.</p> + +<p>Thwart-the-way Island.</p> + +<p>Tides strange and uncertain, see Currents.</p> + +<p>Timor Island: +described. +the Dutch settlement. +the Portuguese settlement. +its inhabitants. +its fruits and animals. +trade. +weather. +the author's departure from it.</p> + +<p>Trees full of worms found in the sea.</p> + +<p>Tryal Rocks.</p> + +<p>Turtle Isles.</p> + +<p>Variation.</p> + +<p>Volcanoes.</p> + +<p>Watersnakes.</p> + +<p>Whales.</p> + +<p>Whirlpools.</p> + +<p>Wishart's Island.</p> + +<p align="center"><img alt="" src="images/dampier-nh2-19.jpg"></p> +<h3>The End</h3> + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A Continuation of a Voyage to New +Holland, by William Dampier + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A CONTINUATION OF A VOYAGE *** + +***** This file should be named 15685-h.htm or 15685-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/1/5/6/8/15685/ + +Produced by Sue Asscher. 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+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: A Continuation of a Voyage to New Holland + +Author: William Dampier + +Release Date: April 22, 2005 [EBook #15685] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A CONTINUATION OF A VOYAGE *** + + + + +Produced by Sue Asscher. HTML by Col Choat. Produced from page images +provided by canadiana.org (http://www.canadiana.org/ECO/mtq?doc=34674) + + + + + + + + +A CONTINUATION OF A VOYAGE TO NEW HOLLAND, ETC. IN THE YEAR 1699. + +Wherein are described, + +The Islands Timor, Roti and Anabao. A passage between the islands Timor +and Anabao. Kupang and Laphao Bays. The islands Omba, Fetter, Banda and +Bird. A description of the coast of New Guinea. The islands Pulo Sabuda, +Cockle, King William's, Providence, Gerrit Denis, Anthony Cave's and St. +John's. Also a new passage between New Guinea and New Britain. The +islands Ceram, Bonao, Bouro, and several islands before unknown. The +coast of Java, and Straits of Sunda. Author's arrival at Batavia, Cape of +Good Hope, St. Helena, island of Ascension, etc. Their inhabitants, +customs, trade, etc. Harbours, soil, birds, fish, etc. Trees, plants, +fruits, etc. + +... + +Illustrated with maps and draughts: also divers birds, fishes, etc. not +found in this part of the world, engraven on eighteen copper plates. + +... + +BY CAPTAIN WILLIAM DAMPIER. + +... + +LONDON, + +Printed for James and John Knapton, at The Crown in St. Paul's +Churchyard. + +1729. + +... + + + +CONTENTS. + +CHAPTER 1. + +The Author's departure from the coast of New Holland, with the reasons of it. +Watersnakes. +The Author's arrival at the island Timor. +Search for fresh water on the south side of the island, in vain. +Fault of the charts. +The island Roti. +A passage between the islands Timor and Anabao. +Fault of the charts. +A Dutch fort, called Concordia. +Their suspicion of the Author. +The island Anabao described. +The Author's parley with the Governor of the Dutch fort. +They, with great difficulty, obtain leave to water. +Kupang Bay. +Coasting along the north side of Timor. +They find water and an anchoring-place. +A description of a small island, seven leagues east from the +watering-bay. +Laphao Bay. +How the Author was treated by the Portuguese there. +Designs of making further searches upon and about the island. +Port Sesial. +Return to Babao in Kupang Bay. +The Author's entertainment at the fort of Concordia. +His stay seven weeks at Babao. + +CHAPTER 2. + +A particular description of the island Timor. +Its coast. +The island Anabao. +Fault of the charts. +The channel between Timor and Anabao. +Kupang Bay. +Fort Concordia. +A particular description of the bay. +The anchoring-place, called Babao. +The Malayans here kill all the Europeans they can. +Laphao, a Portuguese settlement, described. +Port Ciccale. +The hills, water, lowlands, soil, woods, metals, in the island Timor. +Its trees. +Cana-fistula-tree described. +Wild figtrees described. +Two new sorts of palmtrees described. +The fruits of the island. +The herbs. +Its land animals. +Fowls. +The ringing-bird. +Its fish. +Cockle merchants and oysters. +Cockles as big as a man's head. +Its original natives described. +The Portuguese and Dutch settlements. +The Malayan language generally spoken here. +L'Orantuca on the island Ende. +The seasons, winds, and weather at Timor. + +CHAPTER 3. + +Departure from Timor. +The islands Omba and Fetter. +A burning island. +Their missing the Turtle Isles. +Banda Isles. +Bird Island. +They descry the coast of New Guinea. +They anchor on the coast of New Guinea. +A description of the place, and of a strange fowl found there. +Great quantities of mackerel. +A white island. +They anchor at an island called by the inhabitants Pulo Sabuda. +A description of it and its inhabitants and product. +The Indians' manner of fishing there. +Arrival at Mabo, the north-west cape of New Guinea. +A description of it. +Cockle Island. +Cockles of seventy-eight pound weight. +Pigeon Island. +The wind hereabouts. +An empty cockleshell weighing two hundred fifty-eight pound. +King William's Island. +A description of it. +Plying on the coast of New Guinea. +Fault of the charts. +Providence Island. +They cross the Line. +A snake pursued by fish. +Squally Island. +The main of New Guinea. + +CHAPTER 4. + +The mainland of New Guinea. +Its inhabitants. +Slingers Bay. +Small islands. +Gerrit Dennis Isle described. +Its inhabitants. +Their proas. +Anthony Cave's Island. +Its inhabitants. +Trees full of worms found in the sea. +St. John's Island. +The mainland of New Guinea. +Its inhabitants. +The coast described. +Cape and Bay St. George. +Cape Orford. +Another bay. +The inhabitants there. +A large account of the author's attempts to trade with them. +He names the place Port Montague. +The country thereabouts described, and its produce. +A burning island described. +A new passage found. +New Britain. +Sir George Rook's Island. +Long Island and Crown Island, discovered and described. +Sir R. Rich's Island. +A burning island. +A strange spout. +A conjecture concerning a new passage southward. +King William's Island. +Strange whirlpools. +Distance between Cape Mabo and Cape St. George computed. + +CHAPTER 5. + +The Author's return from the coast of New Guinea. +A deep channel. +Strange tides. +The island Ceram described. +Strange fowls. +The islands Bonao, Bouro, Misacombi, Pentare, Laubana, and Potoro. +The passage between Pentare and Laubana. +The island Timor. +Babao Bay. +The island Roti. +More islands than are commonly laid down in the charts. +Great currents. +Whales. +Coast of New Holland. +The Trial Rocks. +The coast of Java. +Princes Isle. +Straits of Sunda. +Thwart-the-way Island. +Indian proas, and their traffic. +Passage through the Strait. +Arrival at Batavia. + +CHAPTER 6. + +The Author continues in Batavia Road to refit, to get provisions. +English ships then in the road. +Departure from Batavia. +Touch at the Cape of Good Hope. +And at St. Helena. +Arrival at the island of Ascension. +A leak sprung. +Which being impossible to be stopped, the ship is lost, but the men saved. +They find water upon the island. +And are brought back to England. + + +MAPS AND ILLUSTRATIONS. + +MAP. A VIEW OF THE COURSE OF CAPTAIN WILLIAM DAMPIER'S VOYAGE FROM TIMOR +ROUND NEW BRITAIN ETC. + +TABLE 5. TIMOR. + +TABLE 6. TIMOR. + +TABLE 7. TIMOR AND OTHER ISLANDS BETWEEN IT AND NEW GUINEA. + +TABLE 8. NEW GUINEA. + +FISH, BAT AND BIRD OF NEW GUINEA: +THIS FISH IS OF A PALE RED ALL PARTS OF IT EXCEPT THE EYE TAKEN ON THE +COAST OF NEW GUINEA. +STRANGE AND LARGE BATS ON THE ISLAND PULO SABUDA IN NEW GUINEA. +THIS BIRD'S EYE IS OF A BRIGHT RED. + +TABLE 9. NEW GUINEA. + +TABLE 10. NEW GUINEA ETC. + +TABLE 11. SQUALLY AND OTHER ISLANDS ON THE COAST OF NEW BRITAIN. + +FISHES TAKEN ON THE COAST OF NEW GUINEA: +THIS FISH FINS AND TAIL ARE BLUE ON THE EDGES AND RED IN THE MIDDLE WITH +BLUE SPOTS ALL OVER THE BODY BUT THE BELLY WHITE. +A PIKE-FISH CONGER ON THE COAST OF NEW GUINEA. +THIS FISH IS A PALE RED WITH BLUE SPOTS ON THE BODY, THE LONG TAIL BLUE +IN THE MIDDLE AND WHITE ON THE SIDE. +A FISH. + +TABLE 12. NEW BRITAIN. + +FISHES TAKEN ON THE COAST OF NEW GUINEA: +THIS FISH HIS FINS AND TAIL IS BLUE WITH BLUE SPOTS ALL OVER THE BODY. +FOUR FISH AND A CRUSTACEAN. + +TABLE 13. DAMPIER'S PASSAGE AND ISLANDS ON THE COAST OF NEW GUINEA. + +TABLE 14. ISLANDS ON THE COAST OF NEW GUINEA. + +TABLE 15. GILOLO AND OTHER ISLANDS BETWEEN IT AND BOURO. + +BIRDS OF NEW GUINEA: +THIS BIRD WAS TAKEN ON THE COAST OF NEW GUINEA. +A STATELY LAND-FOWL ON THE COAST OF NEW GUINEA DESCRIBED. +A STRANGE LAND-FOWL ON THE ISLAND CERAM. + +TABLE 16. BOURO AND OTHER ISLANDS BETWEEN IT AND AMBO. + +... + + + + +CHAPTER 1. + +NORTH FROM NEW HOLLAND FOR WATER. + +THE AUTHOR'S DEPARTURE FROM THE COAST OF NEW HOLLAND, WITH THE REASONS OF IT. + +I had spent about 5 weeks in ranging off and on the coast of New Holland, +a length of about 300 leagues: and had put in at 3 several places to see +what there might be thereabouts worth discovering; and at the same time +to recruit my stock of fresh water and provisions for the further +discoveries I purposed to attempt on the Terra Australis. This large and +hitherto almost unknown tract of land is situated so very advantageously +in the richest climates of the world, the torrid and temperate zones; +having in it especially all the advantages of the torrid zone, as being +known to reach from the equator itself (within a degree) to the Tropic of +Capricorn, and beyond it; that in coasting round it, which I designed by +this voyage, if possible, I could not but hope to meet with some fruitful +lands, continent or islands, or both, productive of any of the rich +fruits, drugs, or spices (perhaps minerals also, etc.) that are in the +other parts of the torrid zone, under equal parallels of latitude; at +least a soil and air capable of such, upon transplanting them hither, and +cultivation. I meant also to make as diligent a survey as I could of the +several smaller islands, shores, capes, bays, creeks, and harbours, fit +as well for shelter as defence, upon fortifying them; and of the rocks +and shoals, the soundings, tides, and currents, winds and weather, +variation, etc., whatever might be beneficial for navigation, trade or +settlement; or be of use to any who should prosecute the same designs +hereafter; to whom it might be serviceable to have so much of their work +done to their hands; which they might advance and perfect by their own +repeated experiences. As there is no work of this kind brought to +perfection at once I intended especially to observe what inhabitants I +should meet with, and to try to win them over to somewhat of traffic and +useful intercourse, as there might be commodities among any of them that +might be fit for trade or manufacture, or any found in which they might +be employed. Though as to the New Hollanders hereabouts, by the +experience I had had of their neighbours formerly, I expected no great +matters from them. + +With such views as these I set out at first from England; and would, +according to the method I proposed formerly, have gone westward through +the Magellanic Strait, or round Tierra del Fuego rather, that I might +have begun my discoveries upon the eastern and least known side of the +Terra Australis. But that way it was not possible for me to go by reason +of the time of year in which I came out; for I must have been compassing +the south of America in a very high latitude in the depth of the winter +there. I was therefore necessitated to go eastward by the Cape of Good +Hope; and when I should be past it it was requisite I should keep in a +pretty high latitude, to avoid the general tradewinds that would be +against me, and to have the benefit of the variable winds: by all which I +was in a manner unavoidably determined to fall in first with those parts +of New Holland I have hitherto been describing. For should it be asked +why at my first making that shore I did not coast it to the southward, +and that way try to get round to the east of New Holland and New Guinea; +I confess I was not for spending my time more than was necessary in the +higher latitudes; as knowing that the land there could not be so well +worth the discovering as the parts that lay nearer the Line and more +directly under the sun. Besides, at the time when I should come first on +New Holland, which was early in the spring, I must, had I stood +southward, have had for some time a great deal of winter weather, +increasing in severity, though not in time, and in a place altogether +unknown; which my men, who were heartless enough to the voyage at best, +would never have borne after so long a run as from Brazil hither. + +For these reasons therefore I chose to coast along to the northward, and +so to the east, and so thought to come round by the south of Terra +Australis in my return back, which should be in the summer season there: +and this passage back also I now thought I might possibly be able to +shorten, should it appear, at my getting to the east coast of New Guinea, +that there is a channel there coming out into these seas, as I now +suspected, near Rosemary Island: unless the high tides and great +indraught thereabout should be occasioned by the mouth of some large +river; which has often low lands on each side of its outlet, and many +islands and shoals lying at its entrance. But I rather thought it a +channel or strait than a river: and I was afterwards confirmed in this +opinion when, by coasting New Guinea, I found that other parts of this +great tract of Terra Australis, which had hitherto been represented as +the shore of a continent, were certainly islands; and it is probably the +same with New Holland: though, for reasons I shall afterwards show, I +could not return by the way I proposed to myself to fix the discovery. +All that I had now seen from the latitude of 27 degrees south to 25, +which is Shark's Bay; and again from thence to Rosemary Islands and about +the latitude of 20; seems to be nothing but ranges of pretty large +islands against the sea, whatever might be behind them to the eastward, +whether sea or land, continent or islands. + +But to proceed with my voyage. Though the land I had seen as yet was not +very inviting, being but barren towards the sea, and affording me neither +fresh water nor any great store of other refreshments, nor so much as a +fit place for careening; yet I stood out to sea again with thoughts of +coasting still alongshore (as near as I could) to the north-eastward, for +the further discovery of it: persuading myself that at least the place I +anchored at in my voyage round the world, in the latitude of 16 degrees +15 minutes, from which I was not now far distant, would not fail to +afford me sweet water upon digging, as it did then; for the brackish +water I had taken in here, though it served tolerably well for boiling, +was yet not very wholesome. + +With these intentions I put to sea on the 5th of September 1699, with a +gentle gale, sounding all the way; but was quickly induced to alter my +design. For I had not been out above a day but I found that the shoals +among which I was engaged all the while on the coast, and was like to be +engaged in, would make it a very tedious thing to sail along by the +shore, or to put in where I might have occasion. I therefore edged +farther off to sea, and so deepened the water from 11 to 32 fathom. The +next day, being September the 6th, we could but just discern the land, +though we had then no more than about 30 fathom, uncertain soundings; for +even while we were out of sight of land we had once but 7 fathom, and had +also great and uncertain tides whirling about, that made me afraid to go +near a coast so shallow, where we might be soon aground and yet have but +little wind to bring us off: for should a ship be near a shoal she might +be hurled upon it unavoidably by a strong tide, unless there should be a +good wind to work her and keep her off. Thus also on the 7th day we saw +no land, though our water decreased again to 26 fathom; for we had +deepened it, as I said, to 30. + +WATERSNAKES. + +This day we saw two water-snakes, different in shape from such as we had +formerly seen. The one was very small, though long; the other long and as +big as a man's leg, having a red head; which I never saw any have, before +or since. We had this day latitude 16 degrees 9 minutes by observation. + +I was by this time got to the north of the place I had thought to have +put in at where I dug wells in my former voyage; and though I knew, by +the experience I had of it then, that there was a deep entrance in +thither from the eastward; yet by the shoals I had hitherto found so far +stretched on this coast, I was afraid I should have the same trouble to +coast all along afterwards beyond that place: and besides the danger of +running almost continually amongst shoals on a strange shore, and where +the tides were strong and high; I began to bethink myself that a great +part of my time must have been spent in being about a shore I was already +almost weary of, which I might employ with greater satisfaction to my +mind, and better hopes of success, in going forward to New Guinea. Add to +this the particular danger I should have been in upon a lee shore, such +as is here described, when the north-west monsoon should once come in; +the ordinary season of which was not now far off, though this year it +stayed beyond the common season; and it comes on storming at first, with +tornadoes, violent gusts, etc. Wherefore quitting the thoughts of putting +in again at New Holland, I resolved to steer away for the island Timor; +where, besides getting fresh water, I might probably expect to be +furnished with fruits and other refreshments to recruit my men, who began +to droop; some of them being already to my great grief afflicted with the +scurvy, which was likely to increase upon them and disable them, and was +promoted by the brackish water they took in last for boiling their +oatmeal. It was now also towards the latter end of the dry season; when I +might not probably have found water so plentifully upon digging at that +part of New Holland as when I was there before in the wet season. And +then, considering the time also that I must necessarily spend in getting +in to the shore through such shoals as I expected to meet with; or in +going about to avoid them; and in digging of wells when I should come +hither: I might very well hope to get to Timor and find fresh water there +as soon as I could expect to get it at New Holland; and with less trouble +and danger. + +On the 8th of September therefore, shaping our course for Timor, we were +in latitude 15 degrees 37 minutes. We had 26 fathom coarse sand; and we +saw one whale. We found them lying most commonly near the shore or in +shoal water. This day we also saw some small white clouds; the first that +we had seen since we came out of Shark's Bay. This was one sign of the +approach of the north-north-west monsoon. Another sign was the shifting +of the winds; for from the time of our coming to our last anchoring +place, the seabreezes which before were easterly and very strong had been +whiffling about and changing gradually from the east to the north, and +thence to the west, blowing but faintly, and now hanging mostly in some +point of the west. This day the winds were at south-west by west, blowing +very faint; and the 9th day we had the wind at north-west by north, but +then pretty fresh; and we saw the clouds rising more and thicker in the +north-west. This night at 12 we lay by for a small low sandy island which +I reckoned myself not far from. The next morning at sun-rising we saw it +from the top-masthead, right ahead of us; and at noon were up within a +mile of it: when by a good observation I found it to lie in 13 degrees 55 +minutes. I have mentioned it in my first volume, but my account then made +it to lie in 13 degrees 50 minutes. We had abundance of boobies and +man-of-war-birds flying about us all the day; especially when we came +near the island; which had also abundance of them upon it; though it was +but a little spot of sand, scarce a mile round. + +I did not anchor here nor send my boat ashore; there being no appearance +of getting anything on that spot of sand besides birds that were good for +little: though had I not been in haste I would have taken some of them. +So I made the best of my way to Timor; and on the 11th in the afternoon +we saw 10 small land-birds, about the bigness of larks, that flew away +north-west. The 13th we saw a great many sea-snakes. One of these, of +which I saw great numbers and variety in this voyage, was large, and all +black: I never saw such another for his colour. + +THE AUTHOR'S ARRIVAL AT THE ISLAND TIMOR. + +We had now for some days small gales from the south-south-west to the +north-north-west, and the sky still more cloudy especially in the +mornings and evenings. The 14th it looked very black in the north-west +all the day; and a little before sunset we saw, to our great joy, the +tops of the high mountains of Timor, peeping out of the clouds which had +before covered them as they did still the lower parts. + +We were now running directly towards the middle of the island on the +south side: but I was in some doubt whether I should run down alongshore +on this south side towards the east end; or pass about the west end, and +so range along on the north side, and go that way towards the east end: +but as the winds were now westerly I thought it best to keep on the south +side, till I should see how the weather would prove; for, as the island +lies, if the westerly winds continued and grew tempestuous I should be +under the lee of it and have smooth water, and so could go alongshore +more safely and easily on this south side: I could sooner also run to the +east end where there is the best shelter, as being still more under the +lee of the island when those winds blow. Or if, on the other side, the +winds should come about again to the eastward, I could but turn back +again (as I did afterwards) and passing about the west end, could there +prosecute my search on the north side of the island for water, or +inhabitants, or a good harbour, or whatever might be useful to me. For +both sides of the island were hitherto alike to me, being wholly +unacquainted here; only as I had seen it at a distance in my former +voyage. + +SEARCH FOR FRESH WATER ON THE SOUTH SIDE OF THE ISLAND, IN VAIN. + +I had heard also that there were both Dutch and Portuguese settlements on +this island; but whereabouts I knew not: however I was resolved to search +about till I found either one of these settlements, or water in some +other place. + +It was now almost night and I did not care to run near the land in the +dark, but clapped on a wind and stood off and on till the next morning, +being September 15th, when I steered in for the island, which now +appeared very plain, being high, double and treble land, very remarkable, +on whatever side you view it. See a sight of it in 2 parts, Table 5 +Number 1. At 3 in the afternoon we anchored in 14 fathom, soft black oasy +ground, about a mile from the shore. See 2 sights more of the coast in +Table 5 Numbers 2 and 3, and the island itself in the particular map; +which I have here inserted to show the course of the voyage from hence to +the eastward; as the general map shows the course of the whole voyage. +But in making the particular map I chose to begin only with Timor, that I +might not, by extending it too far, be forced to contract the scale too +much among the islands, etc., of the New Guinea coast, which I chiefly +designed it for. + +The land by the sea on this south side is low and sandy, and full of tall +straight-bodied trees like pines, for about 200 yards inwards from the +shore. Beyond that, further in towards the mountains, for a breadth of +about 3 miles more or less, there is a tract of swampy mangrove land +which runs all along between the sandy land of the shore on one side of +it, and the feet of the mountains on the other. And this low mangrove +land is overflown every tide of flood by the water that flows into it +through several mouths or openings in the outer sandy skirt against the +sea. We came to an anchor right against one of these openings; and +presently I went in my boat to search for fresh water, or get speech of +the natives; for we saw smokes, houses, and plantations against the sides +of the mountains, not far from us. It was ebbing water before we got +ashore, though the water was still high enough to float us in without any +great trouble. After we were within the mouth we found a large salt-water +lake which we hoped might bring us up through the mangroves to the fast +land: but before we went further I went ashore on the sandy land by the +seaside, and looked about me; but saw there no sign of fresh water. +Within the sandy bank the water forms a large lake: going therefore into +the boat again we rowed up the lake towards the firm land, where no doubt +there was fresh water, could we come at it. We found many branches of the +lake entering within the mangrove land but not beyond it. Of these we +left some on the right hand and some on the left, still keeping in the +biggest channel; with still grew smaller, and at last so narrow that we +could go no farther, ending among the swamps and mangroves. We were then +within a mile of some houses of the Indian inhabitants and the firm land +by the sides of the hills: but the mangroves thus stopping our way, we +returned as we came: but it was almost dark before we reached the mouth +of the creek. It was with much ado that we got out of it again; for it +was now low-water, and there went a rough short sea on the bar; which +however we passed over without any damage and went aboard. + +The next morning at five we weighed and stood alongshore to the eastward, +making use of the sea and land-breezes. We found the seabreezes here from +the south-south-east to the south-south-west, the land-breezes from the +north to the north-east. We coasted along about 20 leagues and found it +all a straight, bold, even shore, without points, creeks or inlets for a +ship: and there is no anchoring till within a mile or a mile and a half +of the shore. We saw scarce any opening fit for our boats; and the fast +land was still barricaded with mangroves; so that here was no hope to get +water; nor was it likely that there should be hereabouts any European +settlement, since there was no sign of a harbour. + +FAULT OF THE CHARTS. + +The land appeared pleasant enough to the eye: for the sides and tops of +the mountains were clothed with woods mixed with savannahs; and there was +a plantation of the Indian natives, where we saw the coconuts growing, +and could have been glad to have come at some of them. In the chart I had +with me a shoal was laid down hereabouts; but I saw nothing of it, going, +or coming; and so have taken no notice of it in my map. + +Weary of running thus fruitlessly along the south side of the island to +the eastward I resolved to return the way I came; and compassing the west +end of the island, make a search along the north side of it. The rather, +because the north-north-west monsoon, which I had designed to be +sheltered from by coming the way I did, did not seem to be near at hand, +as the ordinary season of them required; but on the contrary I found the +winds returning again to the south-eastward; and the weather was fair, +and seemed likely to hold so; and consequently the north-north-west +monsoon was not like to come in yet. I considered therefore that by going +to the north side of the island I should there have the smooth water, as +being the lee side as the winds now were; and hoped to have better riding +at anchor or landing on that side, than I could expect here, where the +shore was so lined with mangroves. + +Accordingly the 18th about noon I altered my course and steered back +again towards the south-west end of the island. This day we struck a +dolphin; and the next day saw two more but struck none: we also saw a +whale. + +THE ISLAND ROTI. + +In the evening we saw the island Roti, and another island to the south of +it, not seen in my map; both lying near the south-west end of Timor. On +both these islands we saw smokes by day, and fires by night, as we had +seen on Timor ever since we fell in with it. I was told afterwards by the +Portuguese that they had sugar-works on the island Roti; but I knew +nothing of that now; and the coast appearing generally dry and barren, +only here and there a spot of trees, I did not attempt anchoring there +but stood over again to the Timor coast. + +A PASSAGE BETWEEN THE ISLANDS TIMOR AND ANABAO. FAULT OF THE CHARTS. + +September the 21st in the morning, being near Timor, I saw a pretty large +opening which immediately I entered with my ship, sounding as I went in: +but had no ground till I came within the east point of the mouth of the +opening, where I anchored in 9 fathom, a league from the shore. The +distance from the east side to the west side of this opening was about 5 +leagues. But, whereas I thought this was only an inlet or large sound +that ran a great way into the island Timor, I found afterwards that it +was a passage between the west end of Timor and another small island +called Anamabao or Anabao: into which mistake I was led by my sea-chart, +which represented both sides of the opening as parts of the same coast, +and called all of it Timor: see all this rectified, and a view of the +whole passage as I found it, in a small map I have made of it. Table 6 +Number 1. + +I designed to sail into this opening till I should come to firm land, for +the shore was all set thick with mangroves here by the sea, on each side; +which were very green, as were also other trees more within-land. We had +now but little wind; therefore I sent my boat away, to sound and to let +me know by signs what depth of water they met with, if under 8 fathom; +but if more I ordered them to go on and make no signs. At 11 that +morning, having a pretty fresh gale, I weighed and made sail after my +boat; but edged over more to the west shore, because I saw many smaller +openings there, and was in hopes to find a good harbour where I might +secure the ship; for then I could with more safety send my boats to seek +for fresh water. I had not sailed far before the wind came to the +south-east and blew so strong that I could not with safety venture nearer +that side, it being a lee shore. Besides, my boat was on the east side of +the Timor coast; for the other was, as I found afterwards, the Anabao +shore; and the great opening I was now in was the strait between that +island and Timor; towards which I now tacked and stood over. Taking up my +boat therefore I ran under the Timor side, and at 3 o'clock anchored in +29 fathom, half a mile from the shore. That part of the south-west point +of Timor where we anchored in the morning bore now south by west, +distance 3 leagues: and another point of the island bore +north-north-east, distance 2 leagues. + +A DUTCH FORT, CALLED CONCORDIA. THEIR SUSPICION OF THE AUTHOR. + +Not long after, we saw a sloop coming about the point last mentioned, +with Dutch colours; which I found, upon sending my boat aboard, belonged +to a Dutch fort (the only one they have in Timor) about 5 leagues from +hence, called Concordia. The governor of the fort was in the sloop, and +about 40 soldiers with him. He appeared to be somewhat surprised at our +coming this way; which it seems is a passage scarce known to any but +themselves; as he told the men I sent to him in my boat. Neither did he +seem willing that we should come near their fort for water. He said also +that he did not know of any water on all that part of the island, but +only at the fort; and that the natives would kill us if they met us +ashore. By the small arms my men carried with them in the boat they took +us to be pirates, and would not easily believe the account my men gave +them of what we were and whence we came. They said that about 2 years +before this there had been a stout ship of French pirates here; and that +after having been suffered to water, and to refresh themselves, and been +kindly used, they had on a sudden gone among the Indians, subjects of the +fort, and plundered them and burnt their houses. And the Portuguese here +told us afterwards that those pirates, whom they also had entertained, +had burnt their houses and had taken the Dutch fort (though the Dutch +cared not to own so much) and had driven the governor and factory among +the wild Indians their enemies. The Dutch told my men further that they +could not but think we had of several nations (as is usual with pirate +vessels) in our ship and particularly some Dutchmen, though all the +discourse was in French (for I had not one who could speak Dutch) or +else, since the common charts make no passage between Timor and Anabao, +but lay down both as one island; they said they suspected we had +plundered some Dutch ship of their particular charts, which they are +forbid to part with. + +With these jealousies the sloop returned towards their fort, and my boat +came back with this news to me: but I was not discouraged at this news; +not doubting but I should persuade them better when I should come to talk +with them. So the next morning I weighed and stood towards the fort. The +winds were somewhat against us so that we could not go very fast, being +obliged to tack 2 or 3 times: and, coming near the farther end of the +passage between Timor and Anabao, we saw many houses on each side not far +from the sea, and several boats lying by the shore. The land on both +sides was pretty high, appearing very dry and of a reddish colour, but +highest on the Timor side. The trees on either side were but small, the +woods thin, and in many places the trees were dry and withered. + +THE ISLAND ANABAO DESCRIBED. + +The island Anamabao, or Anabao, is not very big, not exceeding 10 leagues +in length and 4 in breadth; yet it has 2 kingdoms in it, namely that of +Anamabao on the east side towards Timor and the north-east end; and that +of Anabao, which contains the south-west end and the west side of the +island; but I known not which of them is biggest. The natives of both are +of the Indian kind, of a swarthy copper-colour, with black lank hair. +Those of Anamabao are in league with the Dutch, as these afterwards told +me, and with the natives of the kingdom of Kupang in Timor, over against +them, in which the Dutch fort Concordia stands: but they are said to be +inveterate enemies to their neighbours of Anabao. Those of Anabao, +besides managing their small plantations of roots and a few coconuts, do +fish, strike turtle, and hunt buffaloes, killing them with swords, darts, +or lances. But I know not how they get their iron; I suppose by traffic +with the Dutch or Portuguese, who send now and then a sloop and trade +thither, but well armed; for the natives would kill them, could they +surprise them. They go always armed themselves; and when they go +a-fishing or a-hunting they spend 4 or 5 days or more in ranging about +before they return to their habitation. We often saw them after this at +these employments; but they would not come near us. The fish or flesh +that they take, besides what serves for present spending, they dry on a +barbecue or wooden grate, standing pretty high over the fire, and so +carry it home when they return. We came sometimes afterwards to the +places where they had meat thus a-drying, but did not touch any of it. + +But to proceed: I did not think to stop anywhere till I came near the +fort; which yet I did not see: but, coming to the end of this passage, I +found that if I went any farther I should be open again to the sea. I +therefore stood in close to the shore on the east side, and anchored in 4 +fathom water, sandy ground; a point of land still hindering me from +seeing the fort. But I sent my boat to look about for it; and in a short +time she returned, and my men told me they saw the fort, but did not go +near it; and that it was not above 4 or 5 miles from hence. It being now +late I would not send my boat thither till the next morning: meanwhile +about 2 or 300 Indians, neighbours of the fort, and sent probably from +thence, came to the sandy bay just against the ship; where they stayed +all night, and made good fires. They were armed with lances, swords and +targets, and made a great noise all the night: we thought it was to scare +us from landing, should we attempt it: but we took little notice of them. + +THE AUTHOR'S PARLEY WITH THE GOVERNOR OF THE DUTCH FORT. THEY, WITH GREAT +DIFFICULTY, OBTAIN LEAVE TO WATER. + +The next morning, being September the 23rd, I sent my clerk ashore in my +pinnace to the governor to satisfy him that we were Englishmen: and in +the King's ship, and to ask water of him; sending a young man with him +who spoke French. My clerk was with the governor pretty early; and in +answer to his queries about me, and my business in these parts, told him +that I had the King of England's commission, and desired to speak with +him. He beckoned to my clerk to come ashore; but as soon as he saw some +small arms in the stern-sheets of the boat he commanded him into the boat +again, and would have him be gone. My clerk solicited him that he would +allow him to speak with him; and at last the governor consented that he +should come ashore, and sent his lieutenant and 3 merchants with a guard +of about a hundred of the native Indians to receive him. My clerk said +that we were in much want of water, and hoped they would allow us to come +to their watering-place and fill. But the governor replied that he had +orders not to supply any ships but their own East India Company; neither +must they allow any Europeans to come the way that we came; and wondered +how we durst come near their fort. My clerk answered him that, had we +been enemies, we must have come ashore among them for water: but, said +the governor, you are come to inspect into our trade and strength; and I +will have you therefore be gone with all speed. My clerk answered him +that I had no such design but, without coming nearer them, would be +contented if the governor would send water on board where we lay, about 2 +leagues from the fort; and that I would make any reasonable satisfaction +for it. The governor said that we should have what water we wanted, +provided we came no nearer with the ship: and ordered that as soon as we +pleased we should send our boat full of empty casks, and come to an +anchor with it off the fort, till he sent slaves to bring the casks +ashore and fill them; for that none of our men must come ashore. The same +afternoon I sent up my boat as he had directed with an officer and a +present of some beer for the governor; which he would not accept of, but +sent me off about a ton of water. + +On the 24th in the morning I sent the same officer again in my boat; and +about noon the boat returned again with the two principal merchants of +the factory and the lieutenant of the fort; for whose security they had +kept my officer and one of my boat's crew as hostages, confining them to +the governor's garden all the time: for they were very shy of trusting +any of them to go into their fort, as my officer said: yet afterwards +they were not shy of our company; and I found that my officer maliciously +endeavoured to make them shy of me. In the evening I gave the Dutch +officers that came aboard the best entertainment I could; and, bestowing +some presents on them, sent them back very well pleased; and my officer +and the other man were returned to me. Next morning I sent my boat ashore +again with the same officer; who brought me word from the governor that +we must pay 4 Spanish dollars for every boat-load of water: but in this +he spoke falsely, as I understood afterwards from the governor himself +and all his officers, who protested to me that no such price was +demanded, but left me to give the slaves what I pleased for their labour: +the governor being already better satisfied about me than when my clerk +spoke to him, or than that officer I sent last would have caused him to +be: for the governor being a civil, genteel, and sensible man, was +offended at the officer for his being so industrious to misrepresent me. +I received from the governor a little lamb, very fat; and I sent him 2 of +the guinea-hens that I brought from St. Jago, of which there were none +here. + +I had now 11 buts of water on board, having taken in 7 here, which I +would have paid for but that at present I was afraid to send my boat +ashore again; for my officer told me, among other of his inventions, that +there were more guns mounted in the fort than when we first came; and +that he did not see the gentlemen that were aboard the day before; +intimating as if they were shy of us; and that the governor was very +rough with him; and I, not knowing to the contrary at present, consulted +with my other officers what was best to be done; for by this the governor +should seem to design to quarrel with us. All my other officers thought +it natural to infer so much, and that it was not safe to send the boat +ashore any more, lest it should be seized on; but that it was best to go +away and seek more water where we could find it. For having now (as I +said) 11 buts aboard; and the land being promising this way, I did not +doubt finding water in a short time. But my officer who occasioned these +fears in us by his own forgeries was himself for going no further; having +a mind, as far as I could perceive, to make everything in the voyage, to +which he showed himself averse, seem as cross and discouraging to my men +as possible, that he might hasten our return; being very negligent and +backward in most businesses I had occasion to employ him in; doing +nothing well or willingly, though I did all I could to win him to it. He +was also industrious to stir up the seamen to mutiny; telling them, among +other things, that any Dutch ship might lawfully take us in these seas; +but I knew better, and avoided everything that could give just offence. + +KUPANG BAY. + +The rest of my officers therefore being resolved to go from hence, and +having bought some fish of some Anamabeans who, seeing our ship, came +purposely to sell some, passing to and fro every day, I sailed away on +the 26th about 5 in the afternoon. We passed along between a small low +sandy island (over against the fort) full of bays and pretty high trees; +sounding as we went along, and had from 25 to 35 fathom, oasy ground. See +the little map of this passage Table 6 Number 1. + +The 27th in the morning we anchored in the middle of the bay, called +Kupang Bay, in 12 fathom, soft oaze, about 4 leagues above the Dutch +fort. Their sloop was riding by the fort, and in the night fired a gun; +but for what reason I know not, and the governor said afterwards it was +the skipper's own doing, without his order. Presently after we had +anchored I went in the pinnace to search about the bay for water but +found none. Then, returning aboard, I weighed, and ran down to the north +entrance of the bay, and at 7 in the evening anchored again in 37 fathom, +soft oaze, close by the sandy island, and about 4 leagues from the Dutch +fort. The 28th I sent both my boats ashore on the sandy island to cut +wood; and by noon they both came back laden. In the afternoon I sent my +pinnace ashore on the north coast or point of Kupang Bay, which is called +Babao. Late in the night they returned, and told me that they saw great +tracks of buffaloes there, but none of the buffaloes themselves; neither +did they find any fresh water. They also saw some green-turtle in the sea +and one alligator. + +COASTING ALONG THE NORTH SIDE OF TIMOR. + +The 29th I went out of Kupang Bay, designing to coast it alongshore on +the north side of Timor to the eastward; as well to seek for water, as +also to acquaint myself with the island, and to search for the Portuguese +settlements; which we were informed were about forty leagues to the +eastward of this place. + +We coasted alongshore with land and seabreezes. The land by the shore was +of a moderate height, with high and very remarkable hills farther within +the country; their sides all spotted with woods and savannahs. But these +on the mountains' sides appeared of a rusty colour, not so pleasant and +flourishing as those that we saw on the south side of the island; for the +trees seemed to be small and withering; and the grass in the savannahs +also looked dry, as if it wanted moisture. But in the valleys, and by the +sea side, the trees looked here also more green. Yet we saw no good +anchoring-place, or opening, that gave us any encouragement to put in; +till the 30th day in the afternoon. + +We were then running alongshore, at about 4 leagues distance, with a +moderate seabreeze; when we opened a pretty deep bay which appeared to be +a good road to anchor in. There were two large valleys and one smaller +one which, descending from the mountains, came all into one valley by the +seaside against this bay, which was full of tall green trees. I presently +stood in with the ship till within two leagues of the shore; and then +sent in my pinnace, commanded by my chief mate, whose great care, +fidelity, and diligence I was well assured of; ordering him to seek for +fresh water; and if he found any to sound the bay and bring me word what +anchoring there was, and to make haste aboard. + +As soon as they were gone I stood off a little and lay by. The day was +now far spent; and therefore it was late before they got ashore with the +boat; so that they did not come aboard again that night. Which I was much +concerned at; because in the evening, when the seabreeze was done and the +weather calm, I perceived the ship to drive back again to the westward. I +was not yet acquainted with the tides here; for I had hitherto met with +no strong tides about the island, and scarce any running in a stream, to +set me alongshore either way. But after this time I had pretty much of +them; and found at present the flood set to the eastward, and the ebb to +the westward. The ebb (with which I was now carried) sets very strong and +runs 8 or 9 hours. The flood runs but weak, and at most lasts not above 4 +hours; and this too is perceived only near the shore; where, checking the +ebb, it swells the seas and makes the water rise in the bays and rivers 8 +or 9 foot. I was afterwards credibly informed by some Portuguese that the +current runs always to the westward in the mid-channel between this +island and those that face it in a range to the north of it, namely +Misicomba (or Omba) Pintare, Laubana, Ende, etc. + +THEY FIND WATER AND AN ANCHORING-PLACE. + +We were driven 4 leagues back again, and took particular notice of a +point of land that looked like Flamborough Head, when we were either to +the east or west of it; and near the shore it appeared like an island. +Four or five leagues to the east of this point is another very remarkable +bluff point which is on the west side of the bay that my boat was in. See +two sights of this land, Table 6 Numbers 2 and 3. We could not stem the +tide till about 3 o'clock in the afternoon; when, the tide running with +us, we soon got abreast of the bay, and then saw a small island to the +eastward of us. See a sight of it Table 6 Number 4. About 6 we anchored +in the bottom of the bay in 25 fathom, soft oaze, half a mile from the +shore. + +I made many false fires in the night, and now and then fired a gun that +my boat might find me; but to no purpose. In the morning I found myself +driven again by the tide of ebb 3 or 4 leagues to the westward of the +place where I left my boat. I had several men looking out for her; but +could not get sight of her: besides I continued still driving to the +westward; for we had but little wind, and that against us. But by 10 +o'clock in the morning we had the comfort of seeing the boat; and at 11 +she came aboard, bringing 2 barrecoes of very good water. + +A DESCRIPTION OF A SMALL ISLAND, SEVEN LEAGUES EAST FROM THE WATERING BAY. + +The mate told me there was good anchoring close by the watering-place; +but that there ran a very strong tide, which near the shore made several +races, so that they found much danger in getting ashore, and were afraid +to come off again in the night because of the ripplings the tide made. + +We had now the seabreeze, and steered away for this bay; but could hardly +stem the tide till about 3 in the afternoon; when, the tide being turned +with us, we went along briskly, and about 6 anchored in the bay, in 25 +fathom, soft oaze, half a mile from the shore. + +The next morning I went ashore to fill water, and before night sent +aboard 8 tons. We filled it out of a large pond within 50 paces of the +sea. It looked pale but was very good, and boiled peas well. I saw the +track of an alligator here. Not far from the pond we found the rudder of +a Malayan proa, 3 great jars in a small shed set up against a tree, and a +barbecue whereon there had been fish and flesh of buffaloes dressed, the +bones lying but a little from it. + +In 3 days we filled about twenty-six tun of water, and then had on board +about 30 tun in all. The 2 following days we spent in fishing with the +seine, and the first morning caught as many as served all my ship's +company: but afterwards we had not so good success. The rest of my men +which could be spared from the ship I sent out; some with the carpenter's +mate to cut timber for my boats, etc. These went always guarded with 3 or +4 armed men to secure them: I showed them what wood was fitting to cut +for our use, especially the calabash and maho; I showed them always the +manner of stripping the maho-bark, and of making therewith thread, twine, +ropes, etc. Others were sent out a-fowling; who brought home pigeons, +parrots, cockatoos, etc. I was always with one party or other myself; +especially with the carpenters, to hasten them to get what they could, +that we might be gone from hence. + +Our water being full, I sailed from hence October the 6th about 4 in the +afternoon, designing to coast alongshore to the eastward, till I came to +the Portuguese settlements. By the next morning we were driven 3 or 4 +leagues to the west of the bay; but in the afternoon, having a faint +seabreeze, we got again abreast of it. It was the 11th day at noon before +we got as far as the small island before mentioned, which lies about 7 +leagues to the east of the watering-bay: for what we gained in the +afternoon by the benefit of the seabreezes we lost again in the evenings +and mornings, while it was calm, in the interval of the breezes. But this +day, the seabreeze blowing fresher than ordinary, we passed by the island +and run before night about 7 leagues to the east of it. + +This island is not half a mile long, and not above 100 yards in breadth, +and looked just like a barn when we were by it: it is pretty high, and +may be seen from a ship's topmast-head about 10 leagues. The top, and +part of the sides, are covered with trees, and it is about 3 leagues from +Timor; it is about midway between the watering-place and the Portuguese +first and main settlement by the shore. + +LAPHAO BAY. HOW THE AUTHOR WAS TREATED BY THE PORTUGUESE THERE. + +In the night we were again driven back toward the island, 3 leagues: but +the 12th day, having a pretty brisk seabreeze, we coasted alongshore; +and, seeing a great many houses by the sea, I stood in with my ship till +I was within 2 miles of them, and then sent in my boat and lay by till it +returned. I sent an officer to command the boat; and a Portuguese seaman, +that I brought from Brazil, to speak with the men that we saw on the bay; +there being a great many of them, both foot and horse. I could not tell +what officer there might be amongst them; but I ordered my officer to +tell the chief of them that we were English, and came hither for +refreshment. As soon as the boat came ashore and the inhabitants were +informed who we were they were very glad, and sent me word that I was +welcome, and should have anything that the island afforded; and that I +must run a little farther about a small point, where I should see more +houses; and that the men would stand on the bay, right against the place +where I must anchor. With this news the boat immediately returned; adding +withal that the governor lived about 7 miles up in the country; and that +the chief person here was a lieutenant, who desired me, as soon as the +ship was at anchor, to send ashore one of my officers to go to the +governor and certify him of our arrival. I presently made sail towards +the anchoring-place, and at 5 o'clock anchored in Laphao Bay in 20 +fathom, soft oaze, over against the town. A description of which, and of +the Portuguese settlement there, shall be given in the following chapter. + +As soon as I came to anchor I sent my boat ashore with my second mate, to +go to the governor. The lieutenant that lived here had provided horses +and guides for him, and sent 4 soldiers with him for his guard, and, +while he was absent, treated my men with arack at his own house, where he +and some others of the townsmen showed them many broad thin pieces of +gold; telling them that they had plenty of that metal and would willingly +traffic with them for any sort of European commodities. About 11 o'clock +my mate returned on board and told me he had been in the country, and was +kindly received by the gentleman he went to wait upon; who said we were +welcome, and should have anything the island afforded; and that he was +not himself the governor, but only a deputy. He asked why we did not +salute their fort when we anchored; my mate answered that we saw no +colours flying, and therefore did not know there was any fort till he +came ashore and saw the guns; and if we had known that there was a fort +yet that we could not have given any salute till we knew that they would +answer it with the like number of guns. The deputy said it was very well; +and that he had but little powder; and therefore would gladly buy some of +us, if we had any to spare; which my mate told him we had not. + +The 13th the deputy sent me aboard a present of 2 young buffaloes, 6 +goats, 4 kids, 140 coconuts, 300 ripe mangoes, and 6 ripe jacks. This was +all very acceptable; and all the time we lay here we had fresh provision, +and plenty of fruits; so that those of my men that were sick of the +scurvy soon recovered and grew lusty. I stayed here till the 22nd, went +ashore several times, and once purposely to see the deputy, who came out +of the country also on purpose to see and talk with me. And then indeed +there were guns fired for salutes, both aboard my ship and at the fort. +Our interview was in a small church which was filled with the better sort +of people; her poorer sort thronging on the outside, and looking in upon +us: for the church had no wall but at the east end; the sides and the +west end being open, saving only that it had boards about 3 or 4 foot +high from the ground. I saw but 2 white men among them all; one was a +padre that came along with the lieutenant; the other was an inhabitant of +the town. The rest were all copper-coloured, with black lank hair. I +stayed there about 2 hours, and we spoke to each other by an interpreter. +I asked particularly about the seasons of the year, and when they +expected the north-north-west monsoon. The deputy told me that they +expected the wind to shift every moment; and that some years the +north-north-west monsoon set in in September, but never failed to come in +October; and for that reason desired me to make what haste I could from +hence; for it was impossible to ride here when those winds came. + +DESIGNS OF MAKING FURTHER SEARCHES UPON AND ABOUT THE ISLAND. PORT +SESIAL. + +I asked him if there was no harbour hereabouts where I might be secured +from the fury of these winds at their first coming. He told me that the +best harbour in the island was at a place called Babao on the north side +of Kupang Bay; that there were no inhabitants there, but plenty of +buffaloes in the woods, and abundance of fish in the sea; that there was +also fresh water: that there was another place, called port Sesial, about +20 leagues to the eastward of Laphao; that there was a river of fresh +water there, and plenty of fish, but no inhabitants: yet that if I would +go thither he would send people with hogs, goats and buffaloes, to truck +with me for such commodities as I had to dispose of. + +I was afterwards told that on the east end of the island Ende there was +also a very good harbour, and a Portuguese town; that there was great +plenty of refreshments for my men, and dammer for my ship; that the +governor or chief of that place was called Captain More; that he was a +very courteous gentleman, and would be very glad to entertain an English +ship there; and if I designed to go thither, I might have pilots here +that would be willing to carry me, if I could get the lieutenant's +consent. That it was dangerous going thither without a pilot, by reason +of the violent tides that run between the islands Ende and Solor. I was +told also that at the island Solor there were a great many Dutchmen +banished from other places for certain crimes. I was willing enough to go +thither, as well to secure my ship in a good harbour, where I might +careen her (there being dammer also, which I could not get here, to make +use of instead of pitch, which I now wanted) and where I might still be +refreshing my men and supporting them in order to my further discoveries; +as also to inform myself more particularly concerning these places as yet +so little known to us. Accordingly I accepted the offer of a pilot and +two gentlemen of the town, to go with me to Larentuca on the island Ende: +and they were to come on board my ship the night before I sailed. But I +was hindered of this design by some of my officers who had here also been +very busy in doing me all the injury they could underhand. + +But to proceed. While I stayed here I went ashore every day and my men +took there turns to go ashore and traffic for what they had occasion for; +and were now all very well again: and to keep themselves in heart every +man bought some rice, more or less, to recruit them after our former +fatigues. Besides, I ordered the purser to buy some for them, to serve +them instead of peas which were now almost spent. I filled up my +water-casks again here, and cut more wood; and sent a present to the +lieutenant, Alexis Mendosa, designing to be gone; for while I lay here we +had some tornadoes and rain, and the sky in the north-west looked very +black mornings and evenings, with lightning all night from that quarter, +which made me very uneasy and desirous to depart hence; because this road +lay exposed to the north-north-west and north winds, which were now daily +expected and which are commonly so violent that it is impossible for any +ship to ride them out: yet on the other hand it was absolutely necessary +for me to spend about 2 months time longer in some place hereabouts +before I could prosecute my voyage farther to the eastward; for reasons +which I shall give hereafter in its proper place in the ensuing +discourse. When therefore I sent the present to the governor I desired to +have a pilot to Larentuca on the island Ende; where I desired to spend +the time I had to spare. He now sent me word that he could not well do +it, but would send me a letter to Port Sesial for the natives, who would +come to me there and supply me with what provision they had. + +I stayed 3 days in hopes yet to get a pilot for Larentuca, or at least +the letter from the governor to Port Sesial. But seeing neither I sailed +from hence the 22nd of October, coasting to the eastward, designing for +Sesial; and before night was about 10 leagues to the east of Laphao. I +kept about 3 leagues offshore and my boat ranged along close by the +shore, looking into every bay and cove; and at night returned on board. +The next morning, being 3 or 4 leagues farther to the eastward, I sent my +boat ashore again to find Sesial. At noon they returned and told me they +had been at Sesial, as they guessed; that there were two Portuguese barks +in the port who threatened to fire at them but did not; telling them this +was Porto del Roy de Portugal. They saw also another bark which ran and +anchored close by the shore, and the men ran all away for fear: but our +men calling to them in Portuguese, they at last came to them, and told +them that Sesial was the place which they came from, where the 2 barks +lay: had not these men told them they could not have known it to be a +port, it being only a little bad cove, lying open to the north; having 2 +ledges of rocks at its entrance, one on each side; and a channel between, +which was so narrow that it would not be safe for us to go in. However I +stood in with the ship, to be better satisfied; and when I came near it +found it answer my men's description. I lay by a while to consider what I +had best do; for my design was to lie in a place where I might get fresh +provisions if I could: for, though my men were again pretty well +recruited, and those that had been sick of the scurvy were well again, +yet I designed if possible to refresh them as much and as long as I could +before I went farther. Besides my ship wanted cleaning; and I was +resolved to clean her if possible. + +RETURN TO BABAO IN KUPANG BAY. + +At last after much consideration I thought it safer to go away again for +Babao; and accordingly stood to the westward. We were now about 60 +leagues to the east of Babao. The coast is bold all the way, having no +shoals, and but one island which I saw and described coming to the +eastward. The land in the country is very mountainous; but there are some +large valleys towards the east end. Both the mountains and valleys on +this side are barren; some wholly so; and none of them appear so pleasant +as the place where I watered. It was the 23rd day in the evening when I +stood back again for Babao. We had but small sea and land-breezes. On the +27th we came into Kupang Bay; and the next day, having sounded Babao +road, I ran in and came to an anchor there, in 20 fathom, soft oaze, 3 +mile from the shore. One reason, as I said before, of my coming hither, +was to ride secure and to clean my ship's bottom; as also to endeavour by +fishing and hunting of buffaloes to refresh my men and save my salt +provision. It was like to be some time before I could clean my ship +because I wanted a great many necessaries, especially a vessel to careen +by. I had a long-boat in a frame that I brought out of England, by which +I might have made a shift to do it; but my carpenter was uncapable to set +her up. Besides, by the time the ship's sides were caulked, my pitch was +almost spent; which was all owing to the carpenter's wilful waste and +ignorance; so that I had nothing to lay on upon the ship's bottom. But +instead of this I intended to make lime here, which with oil would have +made a good coat for her. Indeed had it been advisable I would have gone +in between Cross Island and Timor, and have hauled my ship ashore; for +there was a very convenient place to do it in; but, my ship being sharp, +I did not dare to do it: besides, I must have taken everything out of +her; and I had neither boats to get my things ashore nor hands to look +after them when they were there; for my men would have been all employed; +and, though here are no Indians living near, yet they come hither in +companies when ships are here, on purpose to do any mischief they can to +them; and it was not above 2 years since a Portuguese ship riding here, +and sending her boat for water to one of the galleys, the men were all +killed by the Indians. But to secure my men I never suffered them to go +ashore unarmed; and while some were at work others stood to guard them. + +We lay in this place from October the 28th till December the 12th. In +which time we made very good lime with shells, of which here are plenty. +We cut palmetto leaves to burn the ship's sides; and, giving her as good +a heel as we could, we burned her sides and paid them with lime and water +for want of oil to mix with it. This stuck on about 2 months where it was +well burned. We did not want fresh provisions all the time we lay here, +either of fish or flesh. For there were fair sandy bays on the point of +Babao, where in 2 or 3 hours in a morning we used with our seine to drag +ashore as much fish as we could eat all the day; and for a change of diet +when we were weary of fish I sent 10 or 11 men a-hunting for buffaloes; +who never came empty home. They went ashore in the evening or early in +the morning, and before noon always returned with their burdens of +buffalo, enough to suffice us 2 days; by which time we began to long for +fish again. + +THE AUTHOR'S ENTERTAINMENT AT THE FORT OF CONCORDIA. + +On the 11th of November the governor of Concordia sent one of his +officers to us to know who we were. For I had not sent thither since I +came to anchor last here. When the officer came aboard he asked me why we +fired so many guns the 4th and 5th days (which we had done in honour of +King William and in memory of the deliverance from the powder plot) I +told him the occasion of it; and he replied that they were in some fear +at the fort that we had been Portuguese, and that we were coming with +soldiers to take their fort; he asked me also why I did not stay and fill +my water at their fort before I went away from thence? I told him the +reason of it and withal offered him money; bidding him take what he +thought reasonable: he took none and said he was sorry there had been +such a misunderstanding between us; and knew that the governor would be +much concerned at it. After a short stay he went ashore; and the next +morning came aboard again, and told me the governor desired me to come +ashore to the fort and dine with him; and if I doubted anything he would +stay aboard till I returned. I told him I had no reason to mistrust +anything against me, and would go ashore with him; so I took my clerk and +my gunner and went ashore in my pinnace: the gunner spoke very good +French, and therefore I took him to be my interpreter because the +governor speaks French: he was an honest man, and I found him always +diligent and obedient. It was pretty late in the afternoon before we came +ashore; so that we had but little time with the governor. He seemed to be +much dissatisfied at the report my officer had made to me (of which I +have before given an account) and said it was false, neither would he now +take any money of me; but told me I was welcome; as indeed I found by +what he provided. For there was plenty of very good victuals, and well +dressed; and the linen was white and clean; and all the dishes and plates +of silver or fine china. I did not meet anywhere with a better +entertainment while I was abroad; nor with so much decency and order. Our +liquor was wine, beer, toddy, or water, which we liked best after dinner. +He showed me some drawers full of shells which were the strangest and +most curious that I had ever seen. He told me before I went away that he +could not supply me with any naval stores, but if I wanted any fresh +provision he would supply me with what I had occasion for. I thanked him +and told him I would send my boat for some goats and hogs, though +afterwards on second thoughts I did not do it: for it was a great way +from the place where we lay to the fort; and I could not tell what +mischief might befall any of my men when there from the natives; +especially if encouraged by the Dutch, who are enemies to all Europeans +but such as are under their own government. Therefore I chose rather to +fish and hunt for provisions than to be beholden to the Dutch and pay +dearly for it too. + +HIS STAY SEVEN WEEKS AT BABAO. + +We found here, as I said before, plenty of game; so that all the time we +lay at this place we spent none or very little of our salt provisions; +having fish or fresh buffalo every day. We lay here 7 weeks; and, +although the north-north-west monsoon was every day expected when I was +at Laphao, yet it was not come, so that if I had prosecuted my voyage to +the eastward without staying here it had been but to little advantage. +For if I had gone out and beaten against the wind a whole month I should +not have got far; it may be 40, 50 or 60 leagues; which was but 24 hours +run for us with a large wind; besides the trouble and discontent which +might have arisen among my men in beating to windward to so little +purpose, there being nothing to be got at sea; but here we lived and did +eat plentifully every day without trouble. The greatest inconveniency of +this place was want of water; this being the latter part of the dry +season, because the monsoon was very late this year. About 4 days before +we came away we had tornadoes with thunder, lightning and rain, and much +wind; but of no long continuance; at which time we filled some water. We +saw very black clouds, and heard it thunder every day for near a month +before in the mountains; and saw it rain, but none came near us: and even +where we hunted we saw great trees torn up by the roots, and great havoc +made among the woods by the wind; yet none touched us. + + +CHAPTER 2. + +A DESCRIPTION OF TIMOR. + +A PARTICULAR DESCRIPTION OF THE ISLAND TIMOR. + +The island Timor, as I have said in my Voyage round the World, is about +seventy leagues long and fourteen or sixteen broad. It lies nearly +north-east and south-west. The middle of it lies in about 9 degrees south +latitude. It has no navigable rivers nor many harbours; but abundance of +bays for ships to ride in at some seasons of the year. The shore is very +bold, free from rocks, shoals or islands, excepting a few which are +visible and therefore easily avoided. On the south side there is a shoal +laid down in our charts about thirty leagues from the south-west end; I +was fifteen or twenty leagues further to the east than that distance, but +saw nothing of the shoal; neither could I find any harbour. It is a +pretty even shore, with sandy bays and low land for about three or four +miles up; and then it is mountainous. There is no anchoring but with half +a league or a league at farthest from the shore; and the low land that +bounds the sea has nothing but red mangroves, even from the foot of the +mountains till you come within a hundred and fifty or two hundred paces +of the sea; and then you have sandbanks clothed with a sort of pine; so +that there is no getting water on this side because of the mangroves. + +THE ISLAND ANABAO. FAULT OF THE CHARTS. THE CHANNEL BETWEEN TIMOR AND ANABAO. + +At the south-west end of Timor is a pretty high island called Anabao. It +is about ten or twelve leagues long and about four broad; near which the +Dutch are settled. It lies so near Timor that it is laid down in our +charts as part of that island; yet we found a narrow deep channel fit for +any ships to pass between them. This channel is about ten leagues long +and in some places not above a league wide. It runs north-east and +south-west, so deep that there is no anchoring but very nigh the shore. +There is but little tide; the flood setting north and the ebb to the +southward. At the north-east end of this channel are two points of land +not above a league asunder; one on the south side upon Timor, called +Kupang; the other on the north side, upon the island Anabao. From this +last point the land trends away northerly two or three leagues, opens to +the sea, and then bends in again to the westward. + +KUPANG BAY. FORT CONCORDIA. + +Being past these points you open a bay of about eight leagues long and +four wide. This bay trends in on the south side north-east by east from +the south point before mentioned; making many small points or little +coves. About a league to the east of the said south point the Dutch have +a small stone fort, situated on a firm rock close by the sea: this fort +they call Concordia. On the east side of the fort there is a small river +of fresh water which has a broad boarded bridge over it, near to the +entry into the fort. Beyond this river is a small sandy bay where the +boats and barks land and convey their traffic in or out of the fort. +About a hundred yards from the seaside, and as many from the fort, and +forty yards from the bridge on the east side, the Company have a fine +garden, surrounded with a good stone wall; in it is plenty of all sorts +of salads, cabbages, roots for the kitchen; in some parts of it are +fruit-trees, as jacas, pumplenose, oranges, sweet lemons, etc. And by the +walls are coconut and toddy-trees in great plenty. Besides these they +have musk and watermelons, pineapples, pomecitrons, pomegranates, and +other sorts of fruits. Between this garden and the river there is a pen +for black cattle, whereof they have plenty. Beyond the Company's ground +the natives have their houses, in number about fifty or sixty. There are +forty or fifty soldiers belonging to this fort, but I know not how many +guns they have; for I had only opportunity to see one bastion, which had +in it four guns. Within the walls there is a neat little church or +chapel. + +A PARTICULAR DESCRIPTION OF THE BAY. + +Beyond Concordia the land runs about seven leagues to the bottom of the +bay; then it is not above a league and a half from side to side, and the +land trends away northerly to the north shore, then turns about again to +the westward, making the south side of the bay. About three leagues and a +half from the bottom of the bay on this side there is a small island +about a musket-shot from the shore; and a reef of rocks that runs from it +to the eastward about a mile. On the west side of the island is a channel +of three fathom at low-water, of which depth it is also within, where +ships may haul in and careen. West from this island the land rounds away +in a bight or elbow, and at last ends in a low point of land which shoots +forth a ledge of rocks a mile into the sea, which is dry at low water. +Just against the low point of land and to the west of the ledge of rocks +is another pretty high and rocky yet woody island, about half a mile from +the low point; which island has a ledge of corally rocks running from it +all along to the other small island, only leaving one channel between +them. Many of these rocks are to be seen at low-water, and there seldom +is water enough for a boat to go over them till quarter flood or more. +Within this ledge there is two or three fathom water, and without it no +less than ten or twelve fathom close to the rocks. A league without this +last rocky island is another small low sandy island, about four miles +from the low point, three leagues from the Dutch fort Concordia and three +leagues and a half from the south-west point of the bay. Ships that come +in this way must pass between this low isle and the low point, keeping +near the isle. + +THE ANCHORING-PLACE, CALLED BABAO. + +In this bay there is any depth of water from thirty to three fathom, very +good oazy holding ground. This affords the best shelter against all winds +of any place about the island Timor. But from March to October, while +either the southerly winds or only land and seabreezes hold, the +Concordia side is best to ride in; but when the more violent northerly +winds come then the best riding is between the two rocky islands in +nineteen or twenty fathom. If you bring the westernmost island to bear +south-west by west about a league distance, and the low point west by +south; then the body of the sandy island will bear south-west half west, +distance two leagues; and the ledges of rocks shooting from each make +such a bar that no sea can come in. Then you have the land from west by +south to east-north-east to defend you on that side: and other winds do +not here blow violently. But if they did yet you are so land-locked that +there can be no sea to hurt you. This anchoring-place is called Babao, +about five leagues from Concordia. The greatest inconveniency in it is +the multitude of worms. Here is fresh water enough to be had in the wet +season; every little gulley discharging fresh water into the sea. + +THE MALAYANS HERE KILL ALL THE EUROPEANS THEY CAN. + +In the dry season you must search for it in standing ponds or gulleys, +where the wild buffaloes, hogs, etc. resort every morning and evening to +drink; where you may lie and shoot them, taking care that you go strong +enough and well-armed against the natives upon all occasions. For though +there are no inhabitants near this place yet the Malayans come in great +companies when ships are here; and if they meet with any Europeans they +kill them, of what nation soever they be, not excepting the Portuguese +themselves. It is but two years since a Portuguese ship riding here had +all the boat's crew cut off as they were watering; as I was informed by +the Dutch. Here likewise is plenty of fish of several sorts, which may be +caught with a seine; also tortoise and oysters. + +From the north-east point of this bay, on the north side of the island, +the land trends away north-north-east for four or five leagues; afterward +north-east or more easterly; and when you are fourteen or fifteen leagues +to the eastward of Babao you come up with a point that makes like +Flamborough Head, if you are pretty nigh the land; but if at a distance +from it on either side it appears like an island. This point is very +remarkable, there being none other like it in all this island. When you +are abreast of this point you will see another point about four leagues +to the eastward; and when you are abreast of this latter point you will +see a small island bearing east or east by north (according to your +distance from the land) just rising out of the water: when you see it +plain you will be abreast of a pretty deep sandy bay, which has a point +in the middle that comes sloping from the mountains with a curious valley +on each side: the sandy bay runs from one valley to the other. You may +sail into this bay, and anchor a little to the eastward of the point in +twenty fathom water, half a mile from the shore, soft oaze. Then you will +be about two leagues from the west point of the bay, and about eight +leagues from the small island before mentioned, which you can see pretty +plain bearing east-north-east a little northwardly. Some other marks are +set down in the foregoing chapter. In this sandy bay you will find fresh +water in two or three places. At spring tides you will see many +ripplings, like shoals; but they are only eddies caused by the two points +of the bay. + +We saw smokes all day up in the mountains, and fires by night, at certain +places where we supposed the natives lived, but saw none of them. + +The tides ran between the two points of the bay, very strong and +uncertain: yet it did not rise and fall above nine foot upon a spring +tide: but it made great ripplings and a roaring noise, whirling about +like whirlpools. We had constantly eddy tides under the shore, made by +the points on each side of the bay. + +LAPHAO, A PORTUGUESE SETTLEMENT, DESCRIBED. + +When you go hence to the eastward you may pass between the small island +and Timor; and when you are five or six leagues to the eastward of the +small island you will see a large valley to the eastward of you; then, +running a little further, you may see houses on the bay: you may luff in, +but anchor not till you go about the next point. Then you will see more +houses where you may run in to twenty or thirty fathom, and anchor right +against the houses, nearest the west end of them. This place is called +Laphao. It is a Portuguese settlement, about sixteen leagues from the +watering-bay. + +There are in it about forty or fifty houses and one church. The houses +are mean and low, the walls generally made of mud or wattled, and their +sides made up with boards: they are all thatched with palm or palmetto +leaves. The church also is very small: the east end of it is boarded up +to the top; but the sides and the west end are only boarded three or four +foot high; the rest is all open: there is a small altar in it, with two +steps to go up to it, and an image or two; but all very mean. It is also +thatched with palm or palmetto leaves. Each house has a yard belonging to +it, fenced about with wild canes nine or ten foot high. There is a well +in each yard, and a little bucket with a string to it to draw water +withal. There is a trunk of a tree made hollow, placed in each well, to +keep the earth from falling in. Round the yards there are many +fruit-trees planted; as coconuts, tamarinds and toddy-trees. + +They have a small hovel by the sea side where there are six small old +iron guns standing on a decayed platform, in rotten carriages. Their +vents are so big that when they are fired, the strength of the powder +flying out there, they give but a small report like that of a musket. +This is their court of guard; and here were a few armed men watching all +the time we lay here. + +The inhabitants of the town are chiefly a sort of Indians of a +copper-colour, with black lank hair: they speak Portuguese and are of the +Romish religion; but they take the liberty to eat flesh when they please. +They value themselves on the account of their religion and descent from +the Portuguese; and would be very angry if a man should say they are not +Portuguese; yet I saw but three white men here, two of which were padres. +There are also a few Chinese living here. It is a place of pretty good +trade and strength, the best on this island, Porta Nova excepted. They +have three or four small barks belonging to the place; with which they +trade chiefly about the island with the natives for wax, gold, and +sandalwood. Sometimes they go to Batavia and fetch European commodities, +rice, etc. + +The Chinese trade hither from Macao; and I was informed that about twenty +sail of small vessels come from thence hither every year. They bring +coarse rice, adulterated gold, tea, iron, and iron tools, porcelain, +silks, etc. They take in exchange pure gold, as it is gathered in the +mountains, beeswax, sandalwood, slaves, etc. Sometimes also here comes a +ship from Goa. Ships that trade here began to come hither the latter end +of March; and none stay here longer than the latter end of August. For +should they be here while the north-north-west monsoon blows no cables +nor anchors would hold them; but they would be driven ashore and dashed +in pieces presently. But from March till September, while the +south-south-east monsoon blows, ships ride here very secure; for then, +though the wind often blows hard, yet it is offshore; so that there is +very smooth water, and no fear of being driven ashore; and yet even then +they moor with three cables; two towards the land, eastward and westward; +and the third right off to seaward. + +As this is the second place of traffic so it is in strength the second +place the Portuguese have here, though not capable of resisting a hundred +men: for the pirates that were at the Dutch fort came hither also; and +after they had filled their water and cut firewood and refreshed +themselves, they plundered the houses, set them on fire, and went away. +Yet I was told that the Portuguese can draw together five or six hundred +men in twenty-four hours time, all armed with hand-guns, swords and +pistols; but powder and bullets are scarce and dear. The chief person +they have on the island is named Antonio Henriquez; they call him usually +by the title of Captain More or Maior. They say he is a white man, and +that he was sent hither by the viceroy of Goa. I did not see him; for he +lives, as I was informed, a great way from hence, at a place called Porta +Nova, which is at the east end of the island, and by report is a good +harbour; but they say that this Captain More goes frequently to wars in +company with the Indians that are his neighbours and friends, against +other Indians that are their enemies. The next man to him is Alexis +Mendosa; he is a lieutenant, and lives six or seven miles from hence, and +rules this part of the country. He is a little man of the Indian race, +copper-coloured, with black lank hair. He speaks both the Indian and +Portuguese languages; is a Roman Catholic, and seems to be a civil brisk +man. There is another lieutenant at Laphao; who is also an Indian; speaks +both his own and the Portuguese language very well; is old and infirm, +but was very courteous to me. + +They boast very much of their strength here, and say they are able at any +time to drive the Dutch away from the island, had they permission from +the king of Portugal so to do. But though they boast thus of their +strength yet really they are very weak; for they have but a few small +arms and but little powder: they have no fort, nor magazine of arms; nor +does the viceroy of Goa send them any now: for though they pretend to be +under the king of Portugal they are a sort of lawless people, and are +under no government. It was not long since the viceroy of Goa sent a ship +hither, and a land-officer to remain here: but Captain More put him in +irons, and sent him aboard the ship again; telling the commander that he +had no occasion for any officers; and that he could make better officers +here than any that could be sent him from Goa: and I know not whether +there has been any other ship sent from Goa since: so that they have no +supplies from thence: yet they need not want arms and ammunition, seeing +they trade to Batavia. However they have swords and lances as other +Indians have; and though they are ambitious to be called Portuguese, and +value themselves on their religion, yet most of the men and all the women +that live here are Indians; and there are very few right Portuguese in +any part of the island. However of those that call themselves Portuguese +I was told there are some thousands; and I think their strength consists +more in their numbers than in good arms or discipline. + +The land from hence trends away east by north about 14 leagues, making +many points and sandy bays, where vessels may anchor. + +PORT CICCALE. + +Fourteen leagues east from Laphao there is a small harbour called Ciccale +by the Portuguese, and commended by them for an excellent port; but it is +very small, has a narrow entrance, and lies open to northerly winds: +though indeed there are two ledges of rocks, one shooting out from the +west point and the other from the east point, which break off the sea; +for the rocks are dry at low water. This place is about 60 leagues from +the south-west end of the island. + +THE HILLS, WATER, LOWLANDS, SOIL, WOODS, METALS, IN THE ISLAND TIMOR. + +The whole of this island Timor is a very uneven rough country, full of +hills and small valleys. In the middle of it there runs a chain of high +mountains, almost from one end to the other. It is indifferently well +watered (even in the dry times) with small brooks and springs, but no +great rivers; the island being but narrow, and such a chain of mountains +in the middle that no water can run far; but, as the springs break out on +one side or other of the hills, they make their nearest course to the +sea. In the wet season the valleys and low lands by the sea are overflown +with water; and then the small drills that run into the sea are great +rivers; and the gullies, which are dry for 3 or 4 months before, now +discharge an impetuous torrent. The low land by the seaside is for the +most part friable, loose, sandy soil; yet indifferently fertile and +clothed with woods. The mountains are chequered with woods and some spots +of savannahs: some of the hills are wholly covered with tall, flourishing +trees; others but thinly; and these few trees that are on them, look very +small, rusty and withered; and the spots of savannahs among them appear +rocky and barren. Many of the mountains are rich in gold, copper, or +both: the rains wash the gold out of mountains, which the natives pick up +in the adjacent brooks, as the Spaniards do in America: how they get the +copper I know not. + +ITS TREES. + +The trees that grow naturally here are of divers sorts; many of them +wholly unknown to me; but such as I have seen in America or other places, +and grow here likewise, are these, namely mangrove, white, red and black; +maho, calabash, several sorts of the palm kind: the cotton-trees are not +large, but tougher than those in America: here are also locust-trees of 2 +or 3 sorts, bearing fruit, but not like those I have formerly seen; these +bear a large white blossom, and yield much fruit but, it is not sweet. + +CANA-FISTULA-TREE DESCRIBED. + +Cana-fistula-trees are very common here; the tree is about the bigness of +our ordinary apple-trees; their branches not thick, nor full of leaves. +These and the before-mentioned blossom in October and November; the +blossoms are much like our apple-tree blossoms, and about that bigness: +at first they are red; but before they fall off, when spread abroad, they +are white; so that these trees in their season appear extraordinarily +pleasant, and yield a very fragrant smell. When the fruit is ripe it is +round, and about the bigness of a man's thumb; of a dark brown colour, +inclining to red, and about 2 foot or 2 foot and a half long. We found +many of them under the trees, but they had no pulp in them. The +partitions in the middle are much at the same distance with those brought +to England, of the same substance, and such small flat seed in them: but +whether they be the true cana-fistula or no I cannot tell, because I +found no black pulp in them. + +The calabashes here are very prickly: the trees grow tall and tapering; +whereas in the West Indies they are low and spread much abroad. + +Here are also wild tamarind-trees, not as large as the true; though much +resembling them both in the bark and leaf. + +WILD FIGTREES DESCRIBED. + +Wild fig trees here are many, but not so large as those in America. The +fruit grows not on the branches singly like those in America, but in +strings and clusters, 40 or 50 in a cluster, about the body and great +branches of the tree, from the very root up to the top. These figs are +about the bigness of a crab-apple, of a greenish colour, and full of +small white seeds; they smell pretty well, but have no juice or taste; +they are ripe in November. + +Here likewise grows sandalwood, and many more sorts of trees fit for any +uses. The tallest among them resemble our pines; they are straight and +clear-bodied, but not very thick; the inside is reddish near the heart +and hard and ponderous. + +TWO NEW SORTS OF PALMTREES DESCRIBED. + +Of the palm kind there are 3 or 4 sorts; two of which kinds I have not +seen anywhere but here. Both sorts are very large and tall. The first +sort had trunks of about 7 or eight foot in circumference and about 80 or +90 foot high. These had branches at the top like coconut-trees, and their +fruit like coconuts, but smaller: the nut was of an oval form, and about +the bigness of a duck's egg: the shell black and very hard. It was almost +full of kernel, having only a small empty space in the middle, but no +water as coconuts have. The kernel is too hard to be eaten. The fruit +somewhat resembles that in Brazil formerly mentioned. The husk or outside +of the fruit was very yellow, soft and pulpy when ripe; and full of small +fibres; and when it fell down from the trees would mash and smell +unsavoury. + +The other sort was as big and tall as the former; the body growing +straight up without limbs, as all trees of the palm kind do: but, instead +of a great many long green branches growing from the head of the tree, +these had short branches about the bigness of a man's arm, and about a +foot long; each of which spread itself into a great many small tough +twigs, that hung full of fruit like so many ropes of onions. The fruit +was as big as a large plum; and every tree had several bushels of fruit. +The branches that bore this fruit sprouted out at about 50 or 60 foot +height from the ground. The trunk of the tree was all of one bigness from +the ground to that height; but from thence it went tapering smaller and +smaller to the top, where it was no bigger than a man's leg, ending in a +stump: and there was no green about the tree but the fruit; so that it +appeared like a dead trunk. + +Besides fruit trees here were many sorts of tall straight-bodied +timber-trees; one sort of which was like pine. These grow plentifully all +round the island by the seaside, but not far within land. It is hard +wood, of a reddish colour, and very ponderous. + +THE FRUITS OF THE ISLAND. + +The fruits of this island are guavas, mangoes, jacas, coconuts, +plantains, bananas, pineapples, citrons, pomegranates, oranges, lemons, +limes, musk-melons, watermelons, pumpkins, etc. Many of these have been +brought hither by the Dutch and Portuguese; and most of them are ripe in +September and October. There were many other excellent fruits, but not +now in season; as I was informed both by the Dutch and Portuguese. + +THE HERBS. + +Here I met with an herb which in the West Indies we call calalaloo. It +grows wild here. I ate of it several times and found it as pleasant and +wholesome as spinach. Here are also parsley, samphire, etc. Indian corn +thrives very well here, and is the common food of the islanders; though +the Portuguese and their friends sow some rice, but not half enough for +their subsistence. + +ITS LAND ANIMALS. + +The land animals are buffaloes, beeves, horses, hogs, goats, sheep, +monkeys, iguanas, lizards, snakes, scorpions, centumpees, etc. Beside the +tame hogs and buffaloes, there are many wild all over the country, which +any may freely kill. As for the beeves, horses, goats, and sheep, it is +probable they were brought in by the Portuguese or Dutch; especially the +beeves; for I saw none but at the Dutch fort Concordia. + +We also saw monkeys and some snakes. One sort yellow, and as big as a +man's arm, and about 4 foot long: another sort no bigger than the stem of +a tobacco pipe, about 5 foot long, green all over his body, and with a +flat red head as big as a man's thumb. + +FOWLS. THE RINGING-BIRD. + +The fowls are wild cocks and hens, eagles, hawks, crows, 2 sorts of +pigeons, turtledoves, 3 or 4 sorts of parrots, parakeets, cockatoos, +blackbirds; besides a multitude of smaller birds of divers colours, whose +charming music makes the woods very pleasant. One sort of these pretty +little birds my men called the ringing-bird; because it had 6 notes, and +always repeated all his notes twice one after another; beginning high and +shrill and ending low. This bird was about the bigness of a lark, having +a small sharp black bill and blue wings; the head and breast were of a +pale red, and there was a blue streak about its neck. Here are also +sea- or waterfowls, as men-of-war-birds, boobies, fishing-hawks, herons, +galdens, crab-catchers, etc. The tame fowl are cocks, hens, ducks, geese; +the 2 last sorts I only saw at the Dutch fort, of the other sort there +are not many but among the Portuguese: the woods abound with bees, which +make much honey and wax. + +ITS FISH. COCKLE MERCHANTS AND OYSTERS. COCKLES AS BIG AS A MAN'S HEAD. + +The sea is very well stocked with fish of divers sorts, namely mullet, +bass, bream, snook, mackerel, parracoots, garfish, ten-pounders, +scuttle-fish, stingrays, whiprays, rasperages, cockle-merchants, or +oyster-crackers, cavallies, conger-eels, rock-fish, dog-fish, etc. The +rays are so plentiful that I never drew the seine but I caught some of +them; which we salted and dried. I caught one whose tail was 13 foot +long. The cockle-merchants are shaped like cavallies, and about their +bigness. They feed on shellfish, having 2 very hard, thick, flat bones in +their throat, with which they break in pieces the shells of the fish they +swallow. We always find a great many shells in their maws, crushed in +pieces. The shellfish are oysters of 3 sorts, namely long-oysters, common +oysters, growing upon rocks in great abundance and very flat; and another +sort of large oysters, fat and crooked; the shell of this not easily to +be distinguished from a stone. Three or four of these roasted will +suffice a man for one meal. Cockles, as big as a man's head; of which 2 +or 3 are enough for a meal; they are very fat and sweet. Crawfish, +shrimps, etc. Here are also many green-turtle, some alligators and +grandpisces, etc. + +ITS ORIGINAL NATIVES DESCRIBED. + +The original natives of this island are Indians, they are of a middle +stature, straight-bodied, slender-limbed, long-visaged; their hair black +and lank; their skins very swarthy. They are very dexterous and nimble, +but withal lazy in the high degree. They are said to be dull in +everything but treachery and barbarity. Their houses are but low and +mean, their clothing only a small cloth about their middle; but some of +them for ornament have frontlets of mother-of-pearl, or thin pieces of +silver or gold, made of an oval form of the breadth of a crown-piece, +curiously notched round the edges; five of these placed one by another a +little above the eyebrows making a sufficient guard and ornament for +their forehead. They are so thin and placed on their foreheads so +artificially that they seem reverted thereon: and indeed the pearl-oyster +shells make a more splendid show than either silver or gold. Others of +them have palmetto-caps made in divers forms. + +As to their marriages they take as many wives as they can maintain; and +sometimes they sell their children to purchase more wives. I enquired +about their religion and was told they had none. Their common subsistence +is by Indian corn, which every man plants for himself. They take but +little pains to clear their land for in the dry time they set fire to the +withered grass and shrubs, and that burns them out a plantation for the +next wet season. What other grain they have beside Indian corn I know +not. Their plantations are very mean; for they delight most in hunting; +and here are wild buffaloes and hogs enough, though very shy because of +their so frequent hunting. + +They have a few boats and some fishermen. Their arms are lances, thick +round short truncheons and targets; with these they hunt and kill their +game and their enemies too; for this island is now divided into many +kingdoms, and all of different languages; though in their customs and +manner of living, as well as shape and colour, they seem to be of one +stock. + +THE PORTUGUESE AND DUTCH SETTLEMENTS. + +The chiefest kingdoms are Kupang, Amabia, Lortribie, Pobumbie, Namquimal; +the island also of Anamabao, or Anabao, is a kingdom. Each of these has a +sultan who is supreme in his province and kingdom, and has under him +several rajas and other inferior officers. The sultans for the most part +are enemies to each other, which enmities are fomented and kept up by the +Dutch, whose fort and factory is in the kingdom of Kupang; and therefore +the bay near which they are settled, is commonly called Kupang Bay. They +have only as much ground as they can keep within reach of their guns; yet +this whole kingdom is at peace with them; and they freely trade together; +as also with the islanders on Anabao, who are in amity as well with the +natives of Kupang as with the Dutch residing there; but they are +implacable enemies to those of Amabie, who are their next neighbours, and +in amity with the Portuguese: as are also the kingdoms of Pobumbie, +Namquimal and Lortribie. It is very probable that these 2 European +settlements on this island are the greatest occasion of their continued +wars. The Portuguese vaunt highly of their strength here and that they +are able at pleasure to rout the Dutch, if they had authority so to do +from the king of Portugal; and they have written to the viceroy of Goa +about it: and though their request is not yet granted, yet (as they say) +they live in expectation of it. These have no forts but depend on their +alliance with the natives: and indeed they are already so mixed that it +is hard to distinguish whether they are Portuguese or Indians. Their +language is Portuguese; and the religion they have is Romish. They seem +in words to acknowledge the king of Portugal for their sovereign; yet +they will not accept of any officers sent by him. They speak +indifferently the Malayan and their own native languages, as well as +Portuguese; and the chiefest officers that I saw were of this sort; +neither did I see above 3 or 4 white men among them; and of these 2 were +priests. Of this mixed breed there are some thousands; of whom some have +small arms of their own, and know how to use them. The chiefest person +(as I before said) is called Captain More or Maior: he is a white man, +sent hither by the viceroy of Goa, and seems to have great command here. +I did not see him; for he seldom comes down. His residence is at a place +called Porta Nova; which the people at Laphao told me was a great way +off; but I could not get any more particular account. Some told me that +he is most commonly in the mountains, with an army of Indians, to guard +the passes between them and the Kupangayans, especially in the dry times. +The next man to him is Alexis Mendosa: he is a right Indian, speaks very +good Portuguese, and is of the Romish religion. He lives 5 or 6 miles +from the sea, and is called the lieutenant. (This is he whom I called +governor, when at Laphao.) He commands next to Captain More, and has +under him another at this fort (at the seaside) if it may be so-called. +He also is called lieutenant and is an Indian Portuguese. + +Besides this mongrel breed of Indians and Portuguese here are also some +Chinamen, merchants from Macao: they bring hither coarse rice, gold, tea, +iron-work, porcelain, and silk both wrought and raw: they get in exchange +pure gold as it is here gathered, beeswax, sandalwood, coir, etc. It is +said there are about 20 small China vessels come hither every year from +Macao; and commonly one vessel a year from Goa, which brings European +commodities and calicos, muslins, etc. Here are likewise some small barks +belonging to this place, that trade to Batavia, and bring from thence +both European and Indian goods and rice. The vessels generally come here +in March and stay till September. + +The Dutch as I before said are settled in the kingdom of Kupang, where +they have a small neat stone fort. It seems to be pretty strong; yet, as +I was informed, had been taken by a French pirate about 2 years ago: the +Dutch were used very barbarously, and ever since are very jealous of any +strangers that come this way; which I myself experienced. These depend +more on their own strength than on the natives their friends; having good +guns, powder, and shot enough on all occasions, and soldiers sufficient +to manage the business here, all well disciplined and in good order; +which is a thing the Portuguese their neighbours are altogether destitute +of, they having no European soldiers, few arms, less ammunition, and +their fort consisting of no more than 6 bad guns planted against the sea, +whose touch-holes (as was before observed) are so enlarged by time that a +great part of the strength of the powder flies away there; and, having +soldiers in pay, the natives on all occasions are hired; and their +government now is so loose that they will admit of no more officers from +Portugal or Goa. They have also little or no supply of arms or ammunition +from thence, but buy it as often as they can of the Dutch, Chinese, etc., +so that upon the whole it seems improbable that they should ever attempt +to drive out the Dutch for fear of loosing themselves, notwithstanding +their bosomed prowess and alliance with the natives: and indeed, as far +as I could hear, they have business enough to keep their own present +territories from the incursions of the Kupangayans; who are friends to +the Dutch, and whom doubtless the Dutch have ways enough to preserve in +their friendship; besides that they have an inveterate malice to their +neighbours, insomuch that they kill all they meet, and bring away their +heads in triumph. The great men of Kupang stick the heads of those they +have killed on poles; and set them on the tops of their houses; and these +they esteem above all their other riches. The inferior sort bring the +heads of those they kill into houses made for that purpose; of which +there was one at the Indian village near the fort Concordia, almost full +of heads, as I was told. I know not what encouragement they have for +their inhumanity. + +THE MALAYAN LANGUAGE GENERALLY SPOKEN HERE. + +The Dutch have always 2 sloops belonging to their fort; in these they go +about the island and trade with the natives and, as far as I could learn, +they trade indifferently with them all. For though the inland people are +at war with each other, yet those by the seaside seem to be little +concerned; and, generally speaking the Malayan language, are very +sociable and easily induced to trade with those that speak that language; +which the Dutch here always learn; besides, being well acquainted with +the treachery of these people, they go well armed among them, and are +very vigilant never to give them an opportunity to hurt them; and it is +very probable that they supply them with such goods as the Portuguese +cannot. + +LORANTUCA ON THE ISLAND ENDE. + +The Malayan language, as I have before said, is generally spoken amongst +all the islands hereabouts. The greater the trade is the more this +language is spoken: in some it is become their only language; in others +it is but little spoken, and that by the seaside only. With this language +the Mahomedan religion did spread itself, and was got hither before any +European Christians came: but now, though the language is still used, the +Mahomedan religion falls, wherever the Portuguese or Dutch are settled; +unless they be very weak, as at Solor and Ende, where the chief language +is Malayan, and the religion Mahomedanism; though the Dutch are settled +at Solor, and the Portuguese at the east end of the island Ende, at a +place called Lorantuca; which, as I was informed, is a large town, has a +pretty strong fort and safe harbour. The chief man there (as at Timor) is +called Captain More, and is as absolute as the other. These 2 principal +men are enemies to each other; and by their letters and messages to Goa +inveigh bitterly against each other; and are ready to do all the ill +offices they can; yet neither of them much regards the viceroy of Goa, as +I was informed. + +Lorantuca is said to be more populous than any town on Timor; the island +Ende affording greater plenty of all manner of fruit, and being much +better supplied with all necessaries than Laphao; especially with sheep, +goats, hogs, poultry, etc. But it is very dangerous getting into this +harbour because of the violent tides between the islands Ende and Solor. +In the middle channel between Timor and the range of islands to the +northward of it, whereof Ende and Solor are 2, there runs a constant +current all the year to the westward; though near either shore there are +tides indeed; but the tide of flood, which sets west, running 8 or 9 +hours, and the ebb not exceeding 3 or 4 hours, the tide in some places +rises 9 or 10 foot on a spring. + +THE SEASONS, WINDS, AND WEATHER AT TIMOR. + +The seasons of the year here at Timor are much the same as in other +places in south latitude. The fair weather begins in April or May and +continues to October, then the tornadoes begin to come, but no violent +bad weather till the middle of December. Then there are violent west or +north-west winds, with rain, till towards the middle of February. In May +the southerly winds set in and blow very strong on the north side of the +island, but fair. There is great difference of winds on the 2 sides of +the island: for the southerly winds are but very faint on the south side, +and very hard on the north side; and the bad weather on the south side +comes in very violent in October, which on the north side comes not till +December. You have very good sea and land breezes, when the weather is +fair; and may run indifferently to the east or west, as your business +lies. We found from September to December the winds veering all round the +compass gradually in 24 hours time; but such a constant western current +that it is much harder getting to the east than west at or near spring +tides: which I have more than once made trial of. For weighing from Babao +at 6 o'clock in the morning on the 12 instant we kept plying under the +shore till the 20th, meeting with such a western current that we gained +very little. We had land and seabreezes; but so faint that we could +hardly stem the current; and when it was calm between the breezes we +drove a-stern faster than ever we sailed ahead. + + +CHAPTER 3. + +PLYING ON THE NEW GUINEA COAST. + +DEPARTURE FROM TIMOR. + +On the 12th of December 1699 we sailed from Babao, coasting along the +island Timor to the eastward towards New Guinea. It was the 20th before +we got as far as Laphao, which is but forty leagues. We saw black clouds +in the north-west and expected the wind from that quarter above a month +sooner. + +THE ISLANDS OMBA AND FETTER. + +That afternoon we saw the opening between the islands Omba and Fetter, +but feared to pass through in the night. At two o'clock in the morning it +fell calm; and continued so till noon, in which time we drove with the +current back again south-west six or seven leagues. + +On the 22nd, steering to the eastward to get through between Omba and +Fetter, we met a very strong tide against us, so that we, although we had +a very fresh gale, yet made way very slowly; yet before night got +through. By a good observation we found that the south-east point of Omba +lies in latitude 8 degrees 25 minutes. In my charts it is laid down in 8 +degrees 10 minutes. My true course from Babao is east 25 degrees north, +distance one hundred and eighty-three miles. We sounded several times +when near Omba, but had no ground. On the north-east point of Omba we saw +four or five men, and a little further three pretty houses on a low +point, but did not go ashore. + +At five this afternoon we had a tornado which yielded much rain, thunder +and lightning; yet we had but little wind. The 24th in the morning we +caught a large shark, which gave all the ship's company a plentiful meal. + +A BURNING ISLAND. + +The 27th we saw the burning island, it lies in latitude 6 degrees 36 +minutes south; it is high and but small. It runs from the sea a little +sloping towards the top; which is divided in the middle into two peaks, +between which issued out much smoke: I have not seen more from any +volcano. I saw no trees; but the north side appeared green, and the rest +looked very barren. + +THEIR MISSING THE TURTLE ISLES. + +Having passed the burning island I shaped my course for two islands +called Turtle Isles which lie north-east by east a little easterly, and +distant about fifty leagues from the burning isle. I, fearing the wind +might veer to the eastward of the north, steered 20 leagues north-east, +then north-east by east. On the 28th we saw two small low islands called +Luca Paros, to the north of us. At noon I accounted myself 20 leagues +short of the Turtle Isles. + +BANDA ISLES. + +The next morning, being in the latitude of the Turtle Islands, we looked +out sharp for them but saw no appearance of any island till 11 o'clock; +when we saw an island at a great distance. At first we supposed it might +be one of the Turtle Isles: but it was not laid down true, neither in +latitude nor longitude from the burning isle, nor from the Luca Paros, +which last I took to be a great help to guide me, they being laid down +very well from the burning isle, and that likewise in true latitude and +distance from Omba: so that I could not tell what to think of the island +now in sight; we having had fair weather, so that we could not pass by +the Turtle Isles without seeing them; and this in sight was much too far +off for them. We found variation 1 degree 2 minutes east. In the +afternoon I steered north-east by east for the islands that we saw. At 2 +o'clock I went and looked over the fore-yard, and saw 2 islands at much +greater distance than the Turtle Islands are laid down in my charts; one +of them was a very high peaked mountain, cleft at top, and much like the +burning island that we passed by, but bigger and higher; the other was a +pretty long high flat island. Now I was certain that these were not the +Turtle Islands, and that they could be no other than the Banda Isles; yet +we steered in to make them plainer. At 3 o'clock we discovered another +small flat island to the north-west of the others, and saw a great deal +of smoke rise from the top of the high island; at 4 we saw other small +islands, by which I was now assured that these were the Banda Isles +there. At 5 I altered my course and steered east, and at 8 +east-south-east; because I would not be seen by the inhabitants of those +islands in the morning. + +BIRD ISLAND. + +We had little wind all night: and in the morning as soon as it was light +we saw another high peaked island: at 8 it bore south-south-east half +east, distance 8 leagues. And this I knew to be Bird Isle. It is laid +down in our charts in latitude 5 degrees 9 minutes south, which is too +far southerly by 27 miles according to our observation; and the like +error in laying down the Turtle Islands might be the occasion of our +missing them. + +At night I shortened sail for fear of coming too nigh some islands that +stretch away bending like a half moon from Ceram towards Timor, and which +in my course I must of necessity pass through. The next morning betimes I +saw them; and found them to be at a farther distance from Bird Island +than I expected. In the afternoon it fell quite calm; and when we had a +little wind it was so unconstant, flying from one point to another, that +I could not without difficulty get through the islands where I designed: +besides I found a current setting to the southward; so that it was +betwixt 5 and 6 in the evening before I passed through the islands; and +then just weathered little Waiela, whereas I thought to have been 2 or 3 +leagues more northerly. We saw the day before, betwixt 2 and 3, a spout +but a small distance from us. It fell down out of a black cloud that +yielded great store of rain, thunder, and lightning: this cloud hovered +to the southward of us for the space of three hours, and then drew to the +westward a great pace; at which time it was that we saw the spout, which +hung fast to the cloud till it broke; and then the cloud whirled about to +the south-east, then to east-north-east; where, meeting with an island, +it spent itself and so dispersed; and immediately we had a little of the +tail of it, having had none before. Afterward we saw a smoke on the +island Kosiway, which continued all night. + +1700. + +THEY DESCRY THE COAST OF NEW GUINEA. + +On New Year's Day we first descried the land of New Guinea, which +appeared to be high land; and the next day we saw several high islands on +the coast of New Guinea, and ran in with the mainland. The shore here +lies along east-south-east and west-north-west. It is high even land, +very well clothed with tall flourishing trees, which appeared very green +and gave us a very pleasant prospect. We ran to the westward of four +mountainous islands; and in the night had a small tornado, which brought +with it some rain and a fair wind. We had fair weather for a long time; +only when near any land we had some tornadoes; but off at sea commonly +clear weather; though if in sight of land we usually saw many black +clouds hovering about it. + +THEY ANCHOR ON THE COAST OF NEW GUINEA. + +On the 5th and 6th of January we plied to get in with the land; designing +to anchor, fill water, and spend a little time in searching the country, +till after the change of the moon; for I found a strong current setting +against us. We anchored in 38 fathom water, good oazie ground. We had an +island of a league long without us, about 3 miles distant; and we rode +from the main about a mile. The easternmost point of land seen bore east +by south half south, distance 3 leagues: and the westernmost +west-south-west half south, distance 2 leagues. So soon as we anchored we +sent the pinnace to look for water, and try if they could catch any fish. +Afterwards we sent the yawl another way to see for water. Before night +the pinnace brought on board several sorts of fruits that they found in +the woods, such as I never saw before. + +A DESCRIPTION OF THE PLACE, AND OF A STRANGE FOWL FOUND THERE. + +One of my men killed a stately land-fowl, as big as the largest +dunghill-cock. It was of a sky-colour; only in the middle of the wings +was a white spot, about which were some reddish spots: on the crown it +had a large bunch of long feathers, which appeared very pretty. His bill +was like a pigeon's; he had strong legs and feet, like dunghill-fowls; +only the claws were reddish. His crop was full of small berries. It lays +an egg as big as a large hen's egg; for our men climbed the tree where it +nested and brought off one egg. They found water; and reported that the +trees were large, tall and very thick; and that they saw no sign of +people. At night the yawl came aboard and brought a wooden fishgig, very +ingeniously made; the matter of it was a small cane; they found it by a +small barbecue, where they also saw a shattered canoe. + +GREAT QUANTITIES OF MACKEREL. + +The next morning I sent the boatswain ashore a-fishing and at one haul he +caught 352 mackerels and about 20 other fishes; which I caused to be +equally divided among all my company. I sent also the gunner and chief +mate to search about if they could find convenient anchoring nearer a +watering-place: by night they brought word that they had found a fine +stream of good water, where the boat could come close to and it was very +easy to be filled; and that the ship might anchor as near to it as I +pleased: so I went thither. The next morning therefore we anchored in 25 +fathom water, soft oazie ground, about a mile from the river: we got on +board 3 tun of water that night; and caught 2 or 3 pike-fish, in shape +much like a parracota, but with a longer snout, something resembling a +gar, yet not so long. The next day I sent the boat again for water and +before night all my casks were full. + +A WHITE ISLAND. + +Having filled here about 15 tuns of water, seeing we could catch but +little fish, and had no other refreshments, I intended to sail next day; +but finding that we wanted wood I sent to cut some; and going ashore to +hasten it, at some distance from the place where our men were, I found a +small cove where I saw two barbecues, which appeared not to be above 2 +months standing: the spars were cut with some sharp instrument; so that, +if done by the natives, it seems that they have iron. On the 10th, a +little after 12 o'clock, we weighed and stood over to the north side of +the bay; and at 1 o'clock stood out with the wind at north and +north-north-west. At 4 we passed out by a White Island, which I so named +from its many white cliffs, having no name in our charts. It is about a +league long, pretty high, and very woody: it is about 5 miles from the +main, only at the west end it reaches within 3 miles of it. At some +distance off at sea the west point appears like a cape land; the north +side trends away north-north-west, and the east side east-south-east. +This island lies in latitude 3 degrees 4 minutes south; and the meridian +distance from Babao, 500 and 12 miles east. After we were out to sea we +plied to get to the northward; but met with such a strong current against +us that we got but little. For if the wind favoured us in the night, that +we got 3 or 4 leagues; we lost it again and were driven as far astern +next morning, so that we plied here several days. + +The 14th, being past a point of land that we had been 3 days getting +about, we found little or no current; so that, having the wind at +north-west by west and west-north-west, we stood to the northward, and +had several soundings: at 3 o'clock, 38 fathom; the nearest part of New +Guinea being about 3 leagues distance: at 4, 37; at 5, 36; at 6, 36; at +8, 33 fathom; then the cape was about 4 leagues distant; so that as we +ran off we found our water shallower. We had then some islands to the +westward of us, at about four leagues distance. + +THEY ANCHOR AT AN ISLAND CALLED BY THE INHABITANTS PULO SABUDA. A +DESCRIPTION OF IT AND ITS INHABITANTS AND PRODUCT. + +A little after noon we saw smokes on the islands to the west of us; and, +having a fine gale of wind, I steered away for them: at 7 o'clock in the +evening we anchored in 35 fathom, about two leagues from an island, good +soft oazie ground. We lay still all night, and saw fires ashore. In the +morning we weighed again, and ran farther in, thinking to have shallower +water; but we ran within a mile of the shore, and came to in 38 fathom, +good soft holding ground. While we were under sail 2 canoes came off +within call of us: they spoke to us, but we did not understand their +language, nor signs. We waved to them to come aboard, and I called to +them in the Malayan language to do the same; but they would not; yet they +came so nigh us that we could show them such things as we had to truck +with them; yet neither would this entice them to come aboard; but they +made signs for us to come ashore, and away they went. Then I went after +them in my pinnace, carrying with me knives, beads, glasses, hatchets, +etc. When we came near the shore I called to them in the Malayan +language: I saw but 2 men at first, the rest lying in ambush behind the +bushes; but as soon as I threw ashore some knives and other toys they +came out, flung down their weapons, and came into the water by the boat's +side, making signs of friendship by pouring water on their heads with one +hand which they dipped into the sea. The next day in the afternoon +several other canoes came aboard and brought many roots and fruits, which +we purchased. + +This island has no name in our charts but the natives call it Pulo +Sabuda. It is about 3 leagues long and 2 miles wide, more or less. It is +of a good height so as to be seen 11 or 12 leagues. It is very rocky; yet +above the rocks there is good yellow and black mould; not deep yet +producing plenty of good tall trees, and bearing any fruits or roots +which the inhabitants plant. I do not know all its produce; but what we +saw were plantains, coconuts, pineapples, oranges, papaws, potatoes, and +other large roots. Here are also another sort of wild jacas, about the +bigness of a man's two fists, full of stones or kernels, which eat +pleasant enough when roasted. The libby-tree grows here in the swampy +valleys, of which they make sago cakes: I did not see them make any but +was told by the inhabitants that it was made of the pith of the tree in +the same manner I have described in my Voyage round the World. They +showed me the tree whereof it was made, and I bought about 40 of the +cakes. I bought also 3 or 4 nutmegs in their shell, which did not seem to +have been long gathered; but, whether they be the growth of this island +or not, the natives would not tell whence they had them, and seemed to +prize them very much. What beasts the island affords I know not: but here +are both sea- and land-fowl. Of the first boobies and men-of-war-birds +are the chief; some galdens, and small milk-white crab-catchers. The +land-fowls are pigeons, about the bigness of mountain-pigeons in Jamaica; +and crows about the bigness of those in England, and much like them; but +the inner part of their feathers are white, and the outside black; so +that they appear all black, unless you extend the feathers. Here are +large sky-coloured birds, such as we lately killed on New Guinea; and +many other small birds unknown to us. Here are likewise abundance of +bats, as big as young coneys; their necks, head, ears and noses, like +foxes; their hair rough; that about their necks is of a whitish yellow, +that on their heads and shoulders black; their wings are 4 foot over from +tip to tip: they smell like foxes. The fish are bass, rock-fish, and a +sort of fish like mullet, old-wives, whip-rays, and some other sorts that +I know not, but no great plenty of any; for it is deep water till within +less than a mile of the shore; then there is a bank of coral rocks within +which you have shoal water, white clean sand: so there is no good fishing +with the seine. + +This island lies in latitude 2 degrees 43 minutes south and meridian +distance from Port Babao on the island Timor 486 miles. Besides this +island here are 9 or 10 other small islands, as they are laid down in the +charts. + +The inhabitants of this island are a sort of very tawny Indians, with +long black hair; who in their manners differ but little from the +Mindanayans, and others of these eastern islands. These seem to be the +chief; for besides them we saw also shock curl-pated New Guinea negroes; +many of which are slaves to the others, but I think not all. They are +very poor, wear no clothes, but have a clout about their middle, made of +the rinds of the tops of palmetto-trees; but the women had a sort of +calico cloths. Their chief ornaments are blue and yellow beads, worn +about their wrists. The men arm themselves with bows and arrows, lances, +broad swords like those of Mindanao; their lances are pointed with bone. + +THE INDIANS' MANNER OF FISHING THERE. + +They strike fish very ingeniously with wooden fishgigs, and have a very +ingenious way of making the fish rise: for they have a piece of wood, +curiously carved and painted much like a dolphin (and perhaps other +figures) these they let down into the water by a line with a small weight +to sink it; when they think it low enough they haul the line into their +boats very fast, and the fish rise up after this figure; and they stand +ready to strike them when they are near the surface of the water. But +their chief livelihood is from their plantations. Yet they have large +boats, and go over to New Guinea where they get slaves, fine parrots, +etc., which they carry to Goram and exchange for calicos. One boat came +from thence a little before I arrived here; of whom I bought some +parrots; and would have bought a slave but they would not barter for +anything but calicos, which I had not. Their houses on this side were +very small, and seemed only to be for necessity; but on the other side of +the island we saw good large houses. Their proas are narrow with +outlagers on each side, like other Malayans. I cannot tell of what +religion these are; but I think they are not Mahomedans, by their +drinking brandy out of the same cup with us without any scruple. At this +island we continued till the 20th instant, having laid in store of such +roots and fruits as the island afforded. + +On the 20th at half hour after 6 in the morning I weighed and, standing +out, we saw a large boat full of men lying at the north point of the +island. As we passed by they rowed towards their habitations, where we +supposed they had withdrawn themselves for fear of us (though we gave +them no cause of terror) or for some differences among themselves. + +We stood to the northward till 7 in the evening; then saw a rippling; +and, the water being discoloured, we sounded, and had but 22 fathom. I +went about and stood to the westward till 2 next morning, then tacked +again and had these several soundings: at 8 in the evening, 22; at 10, +25; at 11, 27; at 12, 28 fathom; at 2 in the morning 26; at 4, 24; at 6, +23; at 8, 28; at 12, 22. + +ARRIVAL AT MABO, THE NORTH-WEST CAPE OF NEW GUINEA. A DESCRIPTION OF IT. + +We passed by many small islands and among many dangerous shoals without +any remarkable occurrence till the 4th of February, when we got within 3 +leagues of the north-west cape of New Guinea, called by the Dutch Cape +Mabo. Off this cape there lies a small woody island, and many islands of +different sizes to the north and north-east of it. This part of New +Guinea is high land, adorned with tall trees that appeared very green and +flourishing. The cape itself is not very high, but ends in a low sharp +point; and on either side there appears another such point at equal +distances, which makes it resemble a diamond. This only appears when you +are abreast of the middle point; and then you have no ground within 3 +leagues of the shore. + +COCKLE ISLAND. + +In the afternoon we passed by the cape and stood over for the islands. +Before it was dark we were got within a league of the westermost; but had +no ground with 50 fathom of line. However, fearing to stand nearer in the +dark, we tacked and stood to the east, and plied all night. The next +morning we were got 5 or 6 leagues to the eastward of that island; and, +having the wind easterly, we stood in to the northward among the islands, +sounded, and had no ground. Then I sent in my boat to sound, and they had +ground with 50 fathom near a mile from the shore. We tacked before the +boat came aboard again for fear of a shoal that was about a mile to the +east of that island the boat went to; from whence also a shoal point +stretched out itself till it met the other: they brought with them such a +cockle as I have mentioned in my Voyage round the World, found near +Celebes; and they saw many more, some bigger than that which they brought +aboard, as they said; and for this reason I named it Cockle Island. I +sent them to sound again, ordering them to fire a musket if they found +good anchoring; we were then standing to the southward, with a fine +breeze. As soon as they fired I tacked and stood in: they told me they +had 50 fathom when they fired. I tacked again, and made all the sail I +could to get out, being near some rocky islands and shoals to leeward of +us. The breeze increased, and I thought we were out of danger; but, +having a shoal just by us, and the wind falling again, I ordered the boat +to tow us, and by their help we got clear from it. We had a strong tide +setting to the westward. + +COCKLES OF SEVENTY-EIGHT POUND WEIGHT. + +At 1 o'clock, being past the shoal and finding the tide setting to the +westward, I anchored in 35 fathom, coarse sand with small coral and +shells. Being nearest to Cockle Island I immediately sent both the boats +thither; one to cut wood, and the other to fish. At 4 in the afternoon, +having a small breeze at south-south-west, I made a sign for my boats to +come aboard. They brought some wood and a few small cockles, none of them +exceeding 10 pound weight; whereas the shell of the great one weighed 78 +pound; but it was now high-water and therefore they could get no bigger. +They also brought on board some pigeons, of which we found plenty on all +the islands where we touched in these seas. Also in many places we saw +many large bats, but killed none, except those I mentioned at Pulo +Sabuda. As our boats came aboard we weighed and made sail, steering +east-south-east as long as the wind held; in the morning we found we had +got 4 or 5 leagues to the east of the place where we weighed. We stood to +and fro till 11; and, finding that we lost ground, anchored in 42 fathom, +coarse gravelly sand with some coral. This morning we thought we saw a +sail. + +PIGEON ISLAND. + +In the afternoon I went ashore on a small woody island about 2 leagues +from us. Here I found the greatest number of pigeons that ever I saw +either in the east or West Indies, and small cockles in the sea round the +island in such quantities that we might have laden the boat in an hour's +time: these were not above 10 or 12 pound weight. We cut some wood and +brought off cockles enough for all the ship's company; but having no +small shot we could kill no pigeons. I returned about 4 o'clock; and then +my gunner and both mates went thither, and in less than three-quarters of +an hour they killed and brought off 10 pigeons. Here is a tide: the flood +sets west and the ebb east; but the latter is very faint and but of small +continuance. And so we found it ever since we came from Timor. + +THE WIND HEREABOUTS. + +The winds we found easterly, between north-east and east-south-east; so +that, if these continue, it is impossible to beat farther to the eastward +on this coast against wind and current. These easterly winds increased +from the time we were in the latitude of about 2 degrees south; and as we +drew nigher the Line they hung more easterly. And now, being to the north +of the continent of New Guinea where the coast lies east and west, I find +the tradewind here at east; which yet in higher latitudes is usually at +north-north-west and north-west; and so I did expect them here, it being +to the south of the Line. + +AN EMPTY COCKLESHELL WEIGHING TWO HUNDRED FIFTY-EIGHT POUND. + +The 7th in the morning I sent my boat ashore on Pigeon Island and stayed +till noon. In the afternoon my men returned, brought 22 pigeons, and many +cockles, some very large, some small: they also brought one empty shell +that weighed 258 pound. + +KING WILLIAM'S ISLAND. A DESCRIPTION OF IT. + +At 4 o'clock we weighed, having a small westerly wind and a tide with us; +at 7 in the evening we anchored in 42 fathom, near King William's Island, +where I went ashore the next morning, drank His Majesty's health, and +honoured it with his name. It is about 2 leagues and a half in length, +very high, and extraordinarily well clothed with woods. The trees are of +divers sorts, most unknown to us, but all very green and flourishing; +many of them had flowers, some white, some purple, others yellow; all +which smelt very fragrantly. The trees are generally tall and +straight-bodied, and may be fit for any uses. I saw one of a clean body, +without knot or limb, 60 are 70 foot high by estimation. It was 3 of my +fathoms about, and kept its bigness without any sensible decrease even to +the top. The mould of the island is black but not deep; it being very +rocky. On the sides and top of the island are many palmetto-trees whose +heads we could discern over all the other trees, but their bodies we +could not see. + +About 1 in the afternoon we weighed and stood to the eastward, between +the main and King William's Island; leaving the island on our larboard +side and sounding till we were past the island; and then we had no +ground. Here we found the flood setting east by north, and the ebb west +by south. There were shoals and small islands between us and the main, +which caused the tide to set very inconstantly, and make many whirlings +in the water; yet we did not find the tide to set strong any way, nor the +water to rise much. + +PLYING ON THE COAST OF NEW GUINEA. + +On the 9th, being to the eastward of King William's Island, we plied all +day between the main and other islands, having easterly winds and fair +weather till 7 the next morning. Then we had very hard rain till 8 and +saw many shoals of fish. We lay becalmed off a pretty deep bay on New +Guinea, about 12 or 14 leagues wide and 7 or 8 leagues deep, having low +land near its bottom, but high land without. The eastermost part of New +Guinea seen bore east by south, distant 12 leagues: Cape Mabo +west-south-west half south, distant 7 leagues. + +At 1 in the afternoon it began to rain and continued till 6 in the +evening; so that, having but little wind and most calms, we lay still off +the forementioned bay, having King William's Island still in sight, +though distant by judgment 15 or 16 leagues west. We saw many shoals of +small fish, some sharks, and 7 or 8 dolphins; but caught none. In the +afternoon, being about 4 leagues from the shore, we saw an opening in the +land which seemed to afford good harbour: in the evening we saw a large +fire there; and I intended to go in (if winds and weather would permit) +to get some acquaintance with the natives. + +Since the 4th instant that we passed Cape Mabo to the 12th we had small +easterly winds and calms, so that we anchored several times; where I made +my men cut wood, that we might have a good stock when a westerly wind +should present; and so we plied to the eastward, as winds and currents +would permit; having not got in all above 30 leagues to the eastward of +Cape Mabo. But on the 12th, at 4 in the afternoon, a small gale sprang up +at north-east by north with rain: at 5 it shuffled about to north-west, +from thence to the south-west, and continued between those 2 points a +pretty brisk gale; so that we made sail and steered away north-east, till +the 13th in the morning, to get about the Cape of Good Hope. When it was +day we steered north-east half east, then north-east by east till 7 +o'clock; and being then 7 or 8 leagues off shore we steered away east; +the shore trending east by south. We had very much rain all night, so +that we could not carry much sail; yet we had a very steady gale. At 8 +this morning the weather cleared up and the wind decreased to a fine +top-gallant gale, and settled at west by south. We had more rain these 3 +days past than all the voyage in so short time. We were now about 6 +leagues from the land of New Guinea, which appeared very high; and we saw +2 headlands, about 20 leagues asunder; the one to the east, and the other +to the west, which last is called the Cape of Good Hope. We found +variation east 4 degrees. + +FAULT OF THE CHARTS. + +The 15th in the morning between 12 and 2 o'clock it blew a very brisk +gale at north-west and looked very black in the south-west. At 2 it flew +about at once to the south-south-west and rained very hard. The wind +settled some time at west-south-west, and we steered east-north-east till +3 in the morning: then, the wind and rain abating, we steered east half +north for fear of coming near the land. Presently after, it being a +little clear, the man at the bowsprit-end called out, "Land on our +starboard bow." We looked out and saw it plain. I presently sounded and +had but 10 fathom soft ground. The master, being somewhat scared, came +running in haste with this news, and said it was best to anchor: I told +him no, but sound again; then we had 12 fathom; the next cast, 13 and a +half; the 4th, 17 fathom; and then no ground with 50 fathom line. However +we kept off the island and did not go so fast but that we could see any +other danger before we came nigh it. For here might have been more +islands not laid down in my charts besides this. For I searched all the +charts I had, if perchance I might find any island in the one which was +not in the others; but I could find none near us. When it was day we were +about 5 leagues off the land we saw; but, I believe, not above 5 mile, or +at most 2 leagues, off it when we first saw it in the night. + +PROVIDENCE ISLAND. + +This is a small island but pretty high; I named it Providence. About 5 +leagues to the southward of this there is another island which is called +William Schouten's Island and laid down in our charts: it is a high +island and about 20 leagues long. + +It was by mere Providence that we missed the small island. For had not +the wind come to west-south-west and blown hard, so that we steered +east-north-east, we had been upon it by our course that we steered +before, if we could not have seen it. This morning we saw many great +trees and logs swim by us; which it is probable came out of some great +rivers on the main. + +THEY CROSS THE LINE. + +On the 16th we crossed the Line, and found variation 6 degrees 26 minutes +east. The 18th by my observation at noon we found that we had had a +current setting to the southward, and probably that drew us in so nigh +Schouten's Island. For this 24 hours we steered east by north with a +large wind, yet made but an east by south half south course; though the +variation was not above 7 degrees east. + +The 21st we had a current setting to the northward, which is against the +true trade monsoon, it being now near the full moon. I did expect it +here, as in all other places. We had variation 8 degrees 45 minutes east. +The 22nd we found but little current; if any, it set to the southward. + +A SNAKE PURSUED BY FISH. + +On the 23rd in the afternoon we saw 2 snakes; and the next morning +another, passing by us, which was furiously assaulted by 2 fishes that +had kept us company 5 or 6 days. They were shaped like mackerel and were +about that bigness and length, and of a yellow-greenish colour. The snake +swam away from them very fast, keeping his head above water; the fish +snapped at his tail; but when he turned himself that fish would withdraw, +and another would snap; so that by turns they kept him employed; yet he +still defended himself and swam away a great pace till they were out of +sight. + +The 25th betimes in the morning we saw an island to the southward of us +at about 15 leagues distance. We steered away for it, supposing it to be +that which the Dutch call Wishart's Island; but, finding it otherwise, I +called it Matthias; it being that saint's day. This island is about 9 or +10 leagues long, mountainous and woody, with many savannahs, and some +spots of land which seemed to be cleared. + +SQUALLY ISLAND. + +At 8 in the evening we lay by, intending, if I could, to anchor under +Matthias Isle. But the next morning, seeing another island about 7 or 8 +leagues to the eastward of it, we steered away for it; at noon we came up +fair with its south-west end, intending to run along by it and anchor on +the south-east side: but the tornadoes came in so thick and hard that I +could not venture in. This island is pretty low and plain, and clothed +with wood; the trees were very green, and appeared to be large and tall, +as thick as they could stand one by another. It is about 2 or 3 leagues +long, and at the south-west point there is another small low woody island +about a mile round, and about a mile from the other. Between them there +runs a reef of rocks which joins them. (The biggest I named Squally +Island.) + +THE MAIN OF NEW GUINEA. + +Seeing we could not anchor here I stood away to the southward to make the +main. But, having many hard squalls and tornadoes, we were often forced +to hand all our sails and steer more easterly to go before it. On the +26th at 4 o'clock it cleared up to a hard sky, and a brisk settled gale; +then we made as much sail as we could. At 5 it cleared up over the land +and we saw, as we thought, Cape Solomaswer bearing south-south-east +distance 10 leagues. We had many great logs and trees swimming by us all +this afternoon, and much grass; we steered in south-south-east till 6, +then the wind slackened and we stood off till 7, having little wind; then +we lay by till 10, at which time we made sail and steered away east all +night. The next morning, as soon as it was light, we made all the sail we +could, and steered away east-south-east, as the land lay; being fair in +sight of it, and not above 7 leagues distance. We passed by many small +low woody islands which lay between us and the main, not laid down in our +charts. We found variation 9 degrees 50 minutes east. + +The 28th we had many violent tornadoes, wind, rain, and some spouts; and +in the tornadoes the wind shifted. In the night we had fair weather, but +more lightning than we had seen at any time this voyage. This morning we +left a large high island on our larboard side, called in the Dutch charts +Wishart's Isle, about 6 leagues from the main; and, seeing many smokes +upon the main, I therefore steered towards it. + + +CHAPTER 4. + +NEW BRITAIN DISCOVERED. + +THE MAINLAND OF NEW GUINEA. ITS INHABITANTS. SLINGERS BAY. + +The mainland at this place is high and mountainous, adorned with tall +flourishing trees; the sides of the hills had many large plantations and +patches of cleared land; which, together with the smokes we saw, were +certain signs of its being well inhabited; and I was desirous to have +some commerce with the inhabitants. Being nigh the shore we saw first one +proa; a little after, 2 or 3 more; and at last a great many boats came +from all the adjacent bays. When they were 46 in number they approached +so near us that we could see each other's signs, and hear each other +speak; though we could not understand them, nor they us. They made signs +for us to go in towards the shore, pointing that way; it was squally +weather, which at first made me cautious of going too near; but, the +weather beginning to look pretty well, I endeavoured to get into a bay +ahead of us, which we could have got into well enough at first; but while +we lay by we were driven so far to leeward that now it was more difficult +to get in. The natives lay in their proas round us; to whom I showed +beads, knives, glasses, to allure them to come nearer; but they would +come so nigh as to receive anything from us. Therefore I threw out some +things to them, namely a knife fastened to a piece of board, and a glass +bottle corked up with some beads in it, which they took up and seemed +well pleased. They often struck their left breast with their right hand, +and as often held up a black truncheon over their heads, which we thought +was a token of friendship; wherefore we did the like. And when we stood +in towards their shore they seemed to rejoice; but when we stood off they +frowned, yet kept us company in their proas, still pointing to the shore. +About 5 o'clock we got within the mouth of the bay and sounded several +times, but had no ground though within a mile of the shore. The basin of +this bay was above 2 miles within us, into which we might have gone; but, +as I was not assured of anchorage there, so I thought it not prudence to +run in at this time; it being near night and seeing a black tornado +rising in the west, which I most feared: besides we had near 200 men in +proas close by us. And the bays on the shore were lined with men from one +end to the other, where there could not be less than 3 or 400 more. What +weapons they had we know not, nor yet their design. Therefore I had, at +their first coming near us, got up all our small arms, and made several +put on cartouch boxes to prevent treachery. At last I resolved to go out +again: which, when the natives in their proas perceived, they began to +fling stones at us as fast as they could, being provided with engines for +that purpose (wherefore I named this place Slingers Bay). But at the +firing of one gun they were all amazed, drew off and flung no more +stones. They got together as if consulting what to do; for they did not +make in towards the shore, but lay still, though some of them were killed +or wounded; and many of them had paid for their boldness, but that it was +unwilling to cut off any of them; which, if I had done, I could not hope +afterwards to bring them to treat with me. + +SMALL ISLANDS. + +The next day we sailed close by an island where we saw many smokes, and +men in the bays; out of which came 2 canoes, taking much pains to +overtake us, but they could not, though we went with an easy sail; and I +could not now stay for them. As I passed by the south-east point I +sounded several times within a mile of the sandy bays, but had no ground: +about 3 leagues to the northward of the south-east point we opened a +large deep bay, secured from west-north-west and south-west winds. There +were 2 other islands that lay to the north-east of it which secured the +bay from north-east winds; one was but small, yet woody; the other was a +league long, inhabited and full of coconut-trees. I endeavoured to get +into this bay; but there came such flaws off from the high land over it +that I could not; besides we had many hard squalls which deterred me from +it; and, night coming on, I would not run any hazard, but bore away to +the small inhabited island to see if we could get anchoring on the east +side of it. When we came there we found the island so narrow that there +could be no shelter; therefore I tacked and stood towards the greater +island again: and, being more than midway between both, I lay by, +designing to endeavour for anchorage next morning. Between 7 and 8 at +night we spied a canoe close by us; and, seeing no more, suffered her to +come aboard. She had 3 men in her who brought off 5 coconuts, for which I +gave each of them a knife and a string of beads to encourage them to come +off again in the morning: but before these went away we saw 2 more canoes +coming; therefore we stood away to the northward from them and then lay +by again till day. We saw no more boats this night; neither designed to +suffer any to come aboard in the dark. + +By nine o'clock the next morning we were got within a league of the great +island, but were kept off by violent gusts of wind. These squalls gave us +warning of their approach by the clouds which hung over the mountains, +and afterwards descended to the foot of them; and then it is we expect +them speedily. + +GERRIT DENNIS ISLE DESCRIBED. + +On the 3rd of March, being about 5 leagues to leeward of the great +island, we saw the mainland ahead; and another great high island to +leeward of us, distance about 7 leagues; which we bore away for. It is +called in the Dutch charts Gerrit Denis Isle. It is about 14 or 15 +leagues round; high and mountainous, and very woody: some trees appeared +very large and tall; and the bays by the seaside are well stored with +coconut-trees; where we also saw some small houses. The sides of the +mountains are thick set with plantations; and the mould in the new +cleared land seemed to be of a brown-reddish colour. This island is of no +regular figure, but is full of points shooting forth into the sea; +between which are many sandy bays, full of coconut-trees. The middle of +the isle lies in 3 degrees 10 minutes south latitude. + +ITS INHABITANTS. + +It is very populous; the natives are very black, strong, and well-limbed +people; having great round heads, their hair naturally curled and short, +which they shave into several forms, and dye it also of divers colours, +namely red, white and yellow. They have broad round faces with great +bottle noses, yet agreeable enough, till they disfigure them by painting, +and by wearing great things through their noses as big as a man's thumb +and about four inches long; these are run clear through both nostrils, +one end coming out by one cheek-bone, and the other end against the +other; and their noses so stretched that only a small slip of them +appears about the ornament. They have also great holes in their ears, +wherein they wear such stuff as in their noses. + +THEIR PROAS. + +They are very dexterous active fellows in their proas, which are very +ingeniously built. They are narrow and long with outlagers on one side; +the head and stern higher than the rest, and carved into many devices, +namely some fowl, fish, or a man's head, painted or carved: and though it +is but rudely done, yet the resemblance appears plainly, and shows an +ingenious fancy. But with what instruments they make their proas or +carved work I know not; for they seem to be utterly ignorant of iron. +They have very neat paddles with which they manage their proas +dexterously and make great way through the water. Their weapons are +chiefly lances, swords and slings, and some bows and arrows: they have +also wooden fishgigs for striking fish. Those that came to assault us in +Slingers Bay on the main are in all respects like these; and I believe +these are alike treacherous. Their speech is clear and distinct; the +words they used most when near us were "vacousee allamais," and then they +pointed to the shore. Their signs of friendship are either a great +truncheon, or bough of a tree full of leaves put on their heads; often +striking their heads with their hands. + +ANTHONY CAVE'S ISLAND. + +The next day, having a fresh gale of wind, we got under a high island, +about 4 or 5 leagues round, very woody, and full of plantations upon the +sides of the hills; and in the bays by the waterside are abundance of +coconut-trees. It lies in the latitude of 3 degrees 25 minutes south, and +meridian distance from Cape Mabo 1316 miles. On the south-east part of it +or 3 or 4 other small woody islands; one high and peaked, the other low +and flat; all bedecked with coconut-trees and other wood. On the north +there is another island of an indifferent height, and of a somewhat +larger circumference than the great high island last mentioned. We passed +between this and the high island. The high island is called in the Dutch +charts Anthony Cave's Island. As for the flat low island and the other +small one, it is probable they were never seen by the Dutch; nor the +islands to the north of Gerrit Dennis Island. + +ITS INHABITANTS. + +As soon as we came near Cave's Island some canoes came about us and made +signs for us to come ashore, as all the rest had done before; probably +thinking we could run the ship aground anywhere, as they did their proas; +for we saw neither sail nor anchor among any of them, though most eastern +Indians have both. These had proas made of one tree, well dug, with +outlagers on one side: they were but small yet well shaped. We +endeavoured to anchor but found no ground within a mile of the shore: we +kept close along the north side, still sounding till we came to the +north-east end, but found no ground; the canoes still accompanying us; +and the bays were covered with men going along as we sailed: many of them +strove to swim off to us but we left them astern. Being at the north-east +point we found a strong current setting to the north-west; so that though +we had steered to keep under the high island, yet we were driven towards +the flat one. At this time 3 of the natives came aboard: I gave each of +them a knife, a looking-glass, and a string of beads. I showed them +pumpkins and coconut-shells, and made signs to them to bring some aboard, +and had presently 3 coconuts out of one of the canoes. I showed them +nutmegs, and by their signs I guessed they had some on the island. I also +showed them some gold-dust, which they seemed to know, and called out +"manneel, manneel," and pointed towards the land. A while after these men +were gone 2 or 3 canoes came from the flat island, and by signs invited +us to their island; at which the others seemed displeased, and used very +menacing gestures and (I believe) speeches to each other. Night coming on +we stood off to sea; and, having but little wind all night, were driven +away to the north-west. We saw many great fires on the flat island. These +last men that came off to us were all black, as those we had seen before +with frizzled hair: they were very tall, lusty, well-shaped men; they +wear great things in their noses, and paint as the others, but not much; +they make the same signs of friendship, and their language seems to be +one: but the others had proas, and these canoes. On the sides of some of +these we saw the figures of several fish neatly cut; and these last were +not so shy as the others. + +TREES FULL OF WORMS FOUND IN THE SEA. + +Steering away from Cave's Island south-south-east we found a strong +current against us, which set only in some places in streams; and in them +we saw many trees and logs of wood which drove by us. We had but little +wood aboard; wherefore I hoisted out the pinnace and sent her to take up +some of this driftwood. In a little time she came aboard with a great +tree in a tow, which we could hardly hoist in with all our tackles. We +cut up the tree and split it for firewood. It was much worm-eaten and had +in it some live worms above an inch long, and about the bigness of a +goose-quill, and having their heads crusted over with a thin shell. + +ST. JOHN'S ISLAND. + +After this we passed by an island called by the Dutch St. John's Island, +leaving it to the north of us. It is about 9 or 10 leagues round and very +well adorned with lofty trees. We saw many plantations on the sides of +the hills, and abundance of coconut-trees about them; as also thick +groves on the bays by the seaside. As we came near it 3 canoes came off +to us but would not come aboard. They were such as we had seen about the +other islands: they spoke the same language, and made the same signs of +peace; and their canoes were such as at Cave's Island. + +THE MAINLAND OF NEW GUINEA. + +We stood along by St. John's Island till we came almost to the south-east +point; and then, seeing no more islands to the eastward of us, nor any +likelihood of anchoring under this, I steered away for the main of New +Guinea; we being now (as I supposed) to the east of it, on this north +side. My design of seeing these islands as I passed along was to get wood +and water, but could find no anchor-ground, and therefore could not do as +I purposed. Besides, these islands are all so populous that I dared not +send my boat ashore unless I could have anchored pretty nigh. Wherefore I +rather chose to prosecute my design on the main, the season of the year +being now at hand; for I judged the westerly winds were nigh spent. + +ITS INHABITANTS. + +On the 8th of March we saw some smokes on the main, being distant from it +4 or 5 leagues. It is very high, woody land, with some spots of savannah. +About 10 in the morning 6 or 7 canoes came off to us: most of them had no +more than one man in them; they were all black, with short curled hair; +having the same ornaments in their noses, and their heads so shaved and +painted, and speaking the same words, as the inhabitants of Cave's Island +before mentioned. + +THE COAST DESCRIBED. + +There was a headland to the southward of us beyond which, seeing no land, +I supposed that from thence the land trends away more westerly. This +headland lies in the latitude of 5 degrees 2 minutes south, and meridian +distance from Cape Mabo 1290 miles. In the night we lay by for fear of +over-shooting this headland. Between which and Cape St. Maries the land +is high, mountainous and woody; having many points of land shooting out +into the sea, which make so many fine bays. The coast lies +north-north-east and south-south-west. + +The 9th in the morning a huge black man came off to us in a canoe but +would not come aboard. He made the same signs of friendship to us as the +rest we had met with; yet seemed to differ in his language, not using any +of those words which the others did. We saw neither smokes nor +plantations near this headland. We found here variation 1 degree east. + +CAPE AND BAY ST. GEORGE. + +In the afternoon, as we plied near the shore, 3 canoes came off to us; +one had 4 men in her, the others 2 apiece. That with the 4 men came +pretty nigh us, and showed us a coconut and water in a bamboo, making +signs that there was enough ashore where they lived; they pointed to the +place where they would have us go, and so went away. We saw a small round +pretty high island, about a league to the north of this headland, within +which there was a large deep bay, whither the canoes went; and we strove +to get thither before night, but could not; wherefore we stood off, and +saw land to the westward of this headland, bearing west by south half +south, distance about 10 leagues; and, as we thought, still more land +bearing south-west by south, distance 12 or 14 leagues: but, being +clouded, it disappeared and we thought we had been deceived. Before night +we opened the headland fair and I named it Cape St. George. The land from +hence trends away west-north-west about 10 leagues, which is as far as we +could see it; and the land that we saw to the westward of it in the +evening, which bore west by south half south, was another point about 10 +leagues from Cape St. George; between which there runs in a deep bay for +20 leagues or more. We saw some high land in spots like islands down in +that bay at a great distance; but whether they are islands or the main +closing there we know not. The next morning we saw other land to the +south-east of the westermost point, which till then was clouded; it was +very high land, and the same that we saw the day before, that disappeared +in a cloud. This Cape St. George lies in the latitude of 5 degrees 5 +minutes south; and meridian distance from Cape Mabo 1290 miles. The +island off this cape I called St. George's Isle; and the bay between it +and the west point I named St. George's Bay. Note: no Dutch charts go so +far as this cape, by 10 leagues. On the 10th in the evening we got within +a league of the westermost land seen, which is pretty high and very +woody, but no appearance of anchoring. I stood off again, designing (if +possible) to ply to and fro in this bay till I found a conveniency to +wood and water. We saw no more plantations, nor coconut-trees; yet in the +night we discerned a small fire right against us. The next morning we saw +a burning mountain in the country. It was round, high, and peaked at top +(as most volcanoes are) and sent forth a great quantity of smoke. We took +up a log of driftwood and split it for firing; in which we found some +small fish. + +CAPE ORFORD. + +The day after we passed by the south-west cape of this bay, leaving it to +the north of us: when we were abreast of it I called my officers +together, and named it Cape Orford, in honour of my noble patron; +drinking his lordship's health. This cape bears from Cape St. George +south-west about 18 leagues. Between them there is a bay about 25 leagues +deep, having pretty high land all round it, especially near the capes, +though they themselves are not high. Cape Orford lies in the latitude of +5 degrees 24 minutes south by my observation; and meridian distance from +Cape St. George 44 miles west. The land trends from this cape north-west +by west into the bay, and on the other side south-west per compass, which +is south-west 9 degrees west, allowing the variation which is here 9 +degrees east. The land on each side of the cape is more savannah than +woodland, and is highest on the north-west side. The cape itself is a +bluff point of an indifferent height with a flat tableland at top. When +we were to the south-west of the cape it appeared to be a low point +shooting out; which you cannot see when abreast of it. This morning we +struck a log of driftwood with our turtle-irons, hoisted it in, and split +it for firewood. Afterwards we struck another but could not get it in. +There were many fish about it. + +We steered along south-west as the land lies, keeping about 6 leagues off +the shore; and, being desirous to cut wood and fill water if I saw any +conveniency, I lay by in the night, because I would not miss any place +proper for those ends, for fear of wanting such necessaries as we could +not live without. This coast is high and mountainous, and not so thick +with trees as that on the other side of Cape Orford. + +ANOTHER BAY. THE INHABITANTS THERE. + +On the 14th, seeing a pretty deep bay ahead, and some islands where I +thought we might ride secure, we ran in towards the shore and saw some +smokes. At 10 o'clock we saw a point which shot out pretty well into the +sea, with a bay within it which promised fair for water; and we stood in +with a moderate gale. Being got into the bay within the point we saw many +coconut-trees, plantations, and houses. When I came within 4 or 5 mile of +the shore 6 small boats came off to view us, with about 40 men in them +all. Perceiving that they only came to view us and would not come aboard, +I made signs and waved to them to go ashore; but they did not or would +not understand me; therefore I whistled a shot over their heads out of my +fowling-piece, and then they pulled away for the shore as hard as they +could. These were no sooner ashore but we saw 3 boats coming from the +islands to leeward of us, and they soon came within call; for we lay +becalmed. One of the boats had about 40 men in her, and was a large +well-built boat; the other 2 were but small. Not long after I saw another +boat coming out of that bay where I intended to go: she likewise was a +large boat, with a high head and stern painted and full of men; this I +thought came off to fight us, as it is probable they all did; therefore I +fired another small shot over the great boat that was nigh us, which made +them leave their babbling and take to their paddles. We still lay +becalmed; and therefore they, rowing wide of us, directed their course +toward the other great boat that was coming off: when they were pretty +near each other I caused the gunner to fire a gun between them which he +did very dexterously; it was loaded with round and partridge-shot; the +last dropped in the water somewhat short of them, but the round shot went +between both boats and grazed about 100 yards beyond them; this so +affrighted them that they rowed away for the shore as fast as they could, +without coming near each other; and the little boats made the best of +their way after them: and now, having a gentle breeze at +south-south-east, we bore in to the bay after them. When we came by the +point I saw a great number of men peeping from under the rocks: I ordered +a shot to be fired close by to scare them. The shot grazed between us and +the point; and, mounting again, flew over the point, and grazed a second +time just by them. We were obliged to sail along close by the bays; and, +seeing multitudes setting under the trees, I ordered a third gun to be +fired among the coconut-trees to scare them; for, my business being to +wood and water, I thought it necessary to strike some terror into the +inhabitants, who were very numerous, and (by what I saw now and had +formerly experienced) treacherous. After this I sent my boat to sound; +they had first 40, then 30, and at last 20 fathom water. We followed the +boat and came to anchor about a quarter of a mile from the shore in 26 +fathom water, fine black sand and oaze. We rode right against the mouth +of a small river where I hoped to find fresh water. Some of the natives +standing on a small point at the river's mouth, I sent a small shot over +their heads to fright them; which it did effectually. + +A LARGE ACCOUNT OF THE AUTHOR'S ATTEMPTS TO TRADE WITH THEM. + +In the afternoon I sent my boat ashore to the natives who stood upon the +point by the river's mouth with a present of coconuts; when the boat was +come near the shore they came running into the water, and put their nuts +into the boat. Then I made a signal for the boat to come aboard, and sent +both it and the yawl into the river to look for fresh water, ordering the +pinnace to lie near the river's mouth while the yawl went up to search. +In an hour's time they returned aboard with some barrecoes full of fresh +water, which they had taken up about half a mile up the river. After +which I sent them again with casks; ordering one of them to fill water, +and the other to watch the motion of the natives, lest they should make +any opposition; but they did not, and so the boats returned a little +before sunset with a tun and a half of water; and the next day by noon +brought aboard about 6 tun of water. + +I sent ashore commodities to purchase hogs, etc., being informed that the +natives have plenty of them, as also of yams and other good roots; but my +men returned without getting anything that I sent them for; the natives +being unwilling to trade with us: yet they admired our hatchets and axes; +but would part with nothing but coconuts; which they used to climb the +trees for; and so soon as they gave them our men they beckoned to them to +be gone; for they were much afraid of us. + +The 18th I sent both boats again for water, and before noon they had +filled all my casks. In the afternoon I sent them both to cut wood; but, +seeing about 40 natives standing on the bay at a small distance from our +men, I made a signal for them to come aboard again; which they did, and +brought me word that the men which we saw on the bay were passing that +way, but were afraid to come nigh them. At 4 o'clock I sent both the +boats again for more wood, and they returned in the evening. Then I +called my officers to consult whether it were convenient to stay here +longer, and endeavour a better acquaintance with these people or go to +sea. My design of tarrying here longer was, if possible, to get some +hogs, goats, yams and other roots; as also to get some knowledge of the +country and its product. My officers unanimously gave their opinions for +staying longer here. So the next day I sent both boats ashore again to +fish and to cut more wood. While they were ashore about 30 or 40 men and +women passed by them; they were a little afraid of our people at first; +but upon their making signs of friendship they passed by quietly; the men +finely bedecked with feathers of divers colours about their heads, and +lances in their hands; the women had no ornament about them, nor anything +to cover their nakedness but a bunch of small green boughs before and +behind, stuck under a string which came round their waists. They carried +large baskets on their heads, full of yams. And this I have observed +amongst all the wild natives I have known that they make their women +carry the burdens, while the men walk before without any other load than +their arms and ornaments. At noon our men came aboard with the wood they +had cut, and had caught but 6 fishes at 4 or 5 hauls of the seine, though +we saw abundance of fish leaping in the bay all the day long. + +In the afternoon I sent the boats ashore for more wood; and some of our +men went to the natives' houses, and found they were now more shy than +they used to be; had taken down all the coconuts from the trees and +driven away their hogs. Our people made signs to them to know what was +become of their hogs, etc. The natives, pointing to some houses in the +bottom of the bay, and imitating the noise of those creatures, seemed to +intimate that there were both hogs and goats of several sizes, which they +expressed by holding their hands abroad at several distances from the +ground. + +At night our boats came aboard with wood, and the next morning I went +myself with both boats up the river to the watering-place, carrying with +me all such trifles and iron-work as I thought most proper to induce them +to a commerce with us; but I found them very shy and roguish. I saw but 2 +men and a boy: one of the men by some signs was persuaded to come to the +boat's side, where I was; to him I gave a knife, a string of beads, and a +glass bottle; the fellow called out, "cocos, cocos," pointing to a +village hard by, and signified to us that he would go for some; but he +never returned to us. And thus they had frequently of late served our +men. I took 8 or 9 men with me and marched to their houses, which I found +very mean; and their doors made fast with withes. + +I visited 3 of their villages; and, finding all the houses thus abandoned +by the inhabitants, who carried with them all their hogs etc., I brought +out of their houses some small fishing-nets in recompense for those +things they had received of us. As we were coming away we saw 2 of the +natives; I showed them the things that we carried with us and called to +them "cocos, cocos," to let them know that I took these things because +they had not made good what they had promised by their signs, and by +their calling out "cocos." While I was thus employed the men in the yawl +filled 2 hogsheads of water and all the barrecoes. About 1 in the +afternoon I came aboard and found all my officers and men very +importunate to go to that bay where the hogs were said to be. I was loth +to yield to it, fearing they would deal too roughly with the natives. By +2 o'clock in the afternoon many black clouds gathered over the land, +which I thought would deter them from their enterprise; but they +solicited me the more to let them go. At last I consented, sending those +commodities I had ashore with me in the morning, and giving them a strict +charge to deal by fair means, and to act cautiously for their own +security. The bay I sent them to was about 2 miles from the ship. As soon +as they were gone I got all things ready that, if I saw occasion, I might +assist them with my great guns. When they came to land the natives in +great companies stood to resist them; shaking their lances and +threatening them; and some were so daring as to wade into the sea, +holding a target in one hand and a lance in the other. Our men held up to +them such commodities as I had sent, and made signs of friendship; but to +no purpose; for the natives waved them off. Seeing therefore they could +not be prevailed upon to a friendly commerce, my men, being resolved to +have some provision among them, fired some muskets to scare them away; +which had the desired effect upon all but 2 or 3, who stood still in a +menacing posture till the boldest dropped his target and ran away; they +supposed he was shot in the arm: he and some others felt the smart of our +bullets but none were killed; our design being rather to fright than to +kill them. Our men landed and found abundance of tame hogs running among +the houses. They shot down 9, which they brought away, besides many that +ran away wounded. They had but little time; for in less than an hour +after they went from the ship it began to rain: wherefore they got what +they could into the boats; for I had charged them to come away if it +rained. By that time the boat was aboard and the hogs taken in it cleared +up; and my men desired to make another trip thither before night; this +was about 5 in the evening; and I consented, giving them order to repair +on board before night. In the close of the evening they returned +accordingly with 8 hogs more, and a little live pig; and by this time the +other hogs were jerked and salted. These that came last we only dressed +and corned till morning; and then sent both boats ashore for more +refreshments, either of hogs or roots: but in the night the natives had +conveyed away their provisions of all sorts. Many of them were now about +the houses, and none offered to resist our boats landing, but on the +contrary were so amicable that one man brought 10 or 12 coconuts, left +them on the shore after he had showed them to our men, and went out of +sight. Our people finding nothing but nets and images brought some of +them away; which 2 of my men brought aboard in a small canoe; and +presently after, my boats came off. I ordered the boatswain to take care +of the nets, till we came at some place where they might be disposed of +for some refreshment for the use of all the company: the images I took +into my own custody. + +In the afternoon I sent the canoe the place from whence she had been +brought; and in her, 2 axes, 2 hatchets (one of them helved) 6 knives, 6 +looking-glasses, a large bunch of beads, and 4 glass bottles. Our men +drew the canoe ashore, placed the things to the best advantage in her; +and came off in the pinnace which I sent to guard them. And now, being +well stocked with wood and all my water-casks full, I resolved to sail +the next morning. All the time of our stay here we had very fair weather; +only sometimes in the afternoon we had a shower of rain which lasted not +above an hour at most: also some thunder and lightning with very little +wind. We had sea- and land-breezes; the former between the +south-south-east, and the latter from north-east to north-west. + +HE NAMES THE PLACE PORT MONTAGUE. THE COUNTRY THEREABOUTS DESCRIBED, AND +ITS PRODUCE. + +This place I named port Montague in honour of my noble patron. It lies in +the latitude of 6 degrees 10 minutes south, and meridian distance from +Cape St. George 151 miles west. The country hereabouts is mountainous and +woody, full of rich valleys and pleasant fresh-water brooks. The mould in +the valleys is deep and yellowish; that on the sides of the hills of a +very brown colour, and not very deep, but rocky underneath; yet excellent +planting land. The trees in general are neither very straight, thick, nor +tall; yet appear green and pleasant enough: some of them bore flowers, +some berries, and others big fruits; but all unknown to any of us. +Coconut-trees thrive very well here; as well on the bays by the seaside, +as more remote among the plantations. The nuts are of an indifferent +size, the milk and kernel very thick and pleasant. Here is ginger, yams, +and other very good roots for the pot, that our men saw and tasted. What +other fruits or roots the country affords I know not. Here are hogs and +dogs; other land-animals we saw none. The fowls we saw and knew were +pigeons, parrots, cockadores, and crows like those in England; a sort of +birds about the bigness of a blackbird, and smaller birds many. The sea +and rivers have plenty of fish; we saw abundance, though we caught but +few, and these were cavallies, yellow-tails and whip-rays. + +A BURNING ISLAND DESCRIBED. + +We departed from hence on the 22nd of March, and on the 24th in the +evening we saw some high land bearing north-west half west; to the west +of which we could see no land, though there appeared something like land +bearing west a little southerly; but, not being sure of it, I steered +west-north-west all night, and kept going on with an easy sail, intending +to coast along the shore at a distance. At 10 o'clock I saw a great fire +bearing north-west by west, blazing up in a pillar, sometimes very high +for 3 or 4 minutes, then falling quite down for an equal space of time; +sometimes hardly visible, till it blazed up again. I had laid me down +having been indisposed this 3 days: but upon a sight of this my chief +mate called me; I got up and viewed it for about half an hour and knew it +to be a burning hill by its intervals: I charged them to look well out, +having bright moonlight. In the morning I found that the fire we had seen +the night before was a burning island; and steered for it. We saw many +other islands, one large high island, and another smaller, but pretty +high. I stood near the volcano and many small low islands with some +shoals. + +A NEW PASSAGE FOUND. + +March the 25th 1700 in the evening we came within 3 leagues of this +burning hill, being at the same time 2 leagues from the main. I found a +good channel to pass between them, and kept nearer the main than the +island. At 7 in the evening I sounded, and had 52 fathom fine sand and +oaze. I stood to the northward to get clear of this strait, having but +little wind and fair weather. The island all night vomited fire and smoke +very amazingly; and at every belch we heard a dreadful noise like +thunder, and saw a flame of fire after it, the most terrifying that ever +I saw. The intervals between its belches were about half a minute, some +more, others less: neither were these pulses or eruptions alike; for some +were but faint convulsions in comparison of the more vigorous; yet even +the weakest vented a great deal of fire; but the largest made a roaring +noise, and sent up a large flame 20 or 30 yards high; and then might be +seen a great stream of fire running down to the foot of the island, even +to the shore. From the furrows made by this descending fire we could in +the daytime see great smokes arise, which probably were made by the +sulphureous matter thrown out of the funnel at the top which, tumbling +down to the bottom and there lying in a heap, burned till either consumed +or extinguished; and as long as it burned and kept its heat so long the +smoke ascended from it; which we perceived to increase or decrease, +according to the quantity of matter discharged from the funnel. But the +next night, being shot to the westward of the burning island, and the +funnel of it lying on the south side, we could not discern the fire there +as we did the smoke in the day when we were to the southward of it. This +volcano lies in the latitude of 5 degrees 33 minutes south, and meridian +distance from Cape St. George 332 miles west. + +NEW BRITAIN. + +The eastermost part of New Guinea lies 40 miles to the westward of this +tract of land, and by hydrographers they are made joining together: but +here I found an opening and passage between, with many islands; the +largest of which lie on the north side of this passage or strait. The +channel is very good, between the islands and the land to the eastward. +The east part of New Guinea is high and mountainous, ending on the +north-east with a large promontory, which I named King William's Cape in +honour of his present majesty. We saw some smokes on it; and, leaving it +on our larboard side, steered away near the east land which ends with two +remarkable capes or heads distant from each other about 6 or 7 leagues. +Within each head were two very remarkable mountains, ascending very +gradually from the seaside; which afforded a very pleasant and agreeable +prospect. The mountains and lower land were pleasantly mixed with +woodland and savannahs. The trees appeared very green and flourishing; +and the savannahs seemed to be very smooth and even; no meadow in England +appears more green in the spring than these. We saw smokes but did not +strive to anchor here; but rather chose to get under one of the islands +(where I thought I should find few or no inhabitants) that I might repair +my pinnace, which was so crazy that I could not venture ashore anywhere +with her. As we stood over to the islands we looked out very well to the +north, but could see no land that way; by which I was well assured that +we were got through, and that this east land does not join to New Guinea; +therefore I named it New Britain. The north-west cape I called Cape +Gloucester, and the south-west point Cape Anne; and the north-west +mountain, which is very remarkable, I called Mount Gloucester. + +This island which I called New Britain has about 4 degrees of latitude: +the body of it lying in 4 degrees and the northermost part in 2 degrees +30 minutes and the southermost in 6 degrees 30 minutes south. It has +about 5 degrees 18 minutes longitude from east to west. It is generally +high, mountainous land, mixed with large valleys; which as well as the +mountains appeared very fertile; and in most places that we saw the trees +are very large, tall and thick. It is also very well inhabited with +strong well-limbed negroes, whom we found very daring and bold at several +places. As to the product of it I know no more than what I have said in +my account of Port Montague: but it is very probable this island may +afford as many rich commodities as any in the world; and the natives may +be easily brought to commerce, though I could not pretend to it under my +present circumstances. + +SIR GEORGE ROOK'S ISLAND. + +Being near the island to the northward of the volcano I sent my boat to +sound, thinking to anchor here; but she returned and brought me word that +they had no ground, till they met with a reef of coral rocks about a mile +from the shore. Then I bore away to the north side of the island where we +found no anchoring neither. We saw several people, and some +coconut-trees, but could not send ashore for want of my pinnace which was +out of order. In the evening I stood off to sea to be at such a distance +that I might not be driven by any current upon the shoals of this island +if it should prove calm. We had but little wind, especially the beginning +of the night; but in the morning I found myself so far to the west of the +island that, the wind being at east-south-east, I could not fetch it; +wherefore I kept on to the southward and stemmed with the body of a high +island about 11 or 12 leagues long, lying to the southward of that which +I before designed for. I named this island Sir George Rook's Island. + +LONG ISLAND AND CROWN ISLAND, DISCOVERED AND DESCRIBED. + +We also saw some other islands to the westward; which may be better seen +in my chart of these lands than here described. But, seeing a very small +island lying to the north-west of the long island which was before us, +and not far from it, I steered away for that; hoping to find anchoring +there: and, having but little wind, I sent my boat before to sound; +which, when we were about 2 miles distance from the shore, came on board +and brought me word that there was good anchoring in 30 or 40 fathom +water, a mile from the isle and within a reef of the rocks which lay in a +half-moon, reaching from the north part of the island to the south-east: +so at noon we got in and anchored in 36 fathom a mile from the isle. + +In the afternoon I sent my boat ashore to the island to see what +convenience there was to haul our vessel ashore in order to be mended, +and whether we could catch any fish. My men in the boat rowed about the +island, but could not land by reason of the rocks and a great surge +running in upon the shore. We found variation here 8 degrees 25 minutes +west. + +I designed to have stayed among these islands till I had got my pinnace +refitted; but, having no more than one man who had skill to work upon +her, I saw she would be a long time in repairing (which was one great +reason why I could not prosecute my discoveries further) and, the +easterly winds being set in, I found I should scarce be able to hold my +ground. + +The 31st in the forenoon we shot in between 2 islands lying about 4 +leagues asunder; with intention to pass between them. The southermost is +a long island with a high hill at each end; this I named Long island. The +northermost is a round high island towering up with several heads or +tops, something resembling a crown; this I named Crown Isle from its +form. Both these islands appeared very pleasant, having spots of green +savannahs mixed among the woodland: the trees appeared very green and +flourishing, and some of them looked white and full of blossoms. We +passed close by Crown Isle; saw many coconut-trees on the bays and the +sides of the hills; and one boat was coming off from the shore but +returned again. We saw no smokes on either of the islands, neither did we +see any plantations; and it is probable they are not very well peopled. +We saw many shoals near Crown Island, and reefs of rocks running off from +the points a mile or more into the sea. My boat was once overboard with +design to have sent her ashore; but, having little wind and seeing some +shoals, I hoisted her in again and stood off out of danger. + +SIR R. RICH'S ISLAND. + +In the afternoon, seeing an island bearing north-west by west, we steered +away north-west by north, to be to the northward of it. The next morning, +being about midway from the islands we left yesterday, and having this to +the westward of us; the land of the main of New Guinea within us to the +southward appeared very high. When we came within 4 or 5 leagues of this +island to the west of us, 4 boats came off to view us: one came within +call, but returned with the other 3 without speaking to us: so we kept +on for the island which I named Sir R. Rich's Island. It was pretty high, +woody, and mixed with savannahs like those formerly mentioned. Being to +the north of it we saw an opening between it and another island 2 leagues +to the west of it, which before appeared all in one. The main seemed to +be high land, trending to the westward. + +A BURNING ISLAND. + +On Tuesday the 2nd of April about 8 in the morning we discovered a high +peaked island to the westward which seemed to smoke at its top. The next +day we passed by the north side of the burning island and saw a smoke +again at its top; but, the vent lying on the south side of the peak, we +could not observe it distinctly, nor see the fire. We afterwards opened 3 +more islands and some land to the southward, which we could not well tell +whether it were islands or part of the main. These islands are all high, +full of fair trees and spots of green savannahs; as well the burning isle +as the rest; but the burning isle was more round and peaked at top, very +fine land near the sea, and for two-thirds up it. We also saw another +isle sending forth a great smoke at once; but it soon vanished, and we +saw it no more. We saw also among these islands 3 small vessels with +sails, which the people on New Britain seem wholly ignorant of. + +A STRANGE SPOUT. + +The 11th at noon, having a very good observation, I found myself to the +northward of my reckoning; and thence concluded that we had a current +setting north-west, or rather more westerly, as the land lies. From that +time to the next morning we had fair clear weather and a fine moderate +gale from south-east to east by north: but at daybreak the clouds began +to fly, and it lightned very much in the east, south-east and north-east. +At sun-rising the sky looked very red in the east near the horizon; and +there were many black clouds both to the south and north of it. About a +quarter of an hour after the sun was up there was a squall to the +windward of us; when on a sudden one of our men on the forecastle called +out that he saw something astern, but could not tell what: I looked out +for it and immediately saw a spout beginning to work within a quarter of +a mile of us, exactly in the wind. We presently put right before it. It +came very swiftly, whirling the water up in a pillar about 6 or 7 yards +high. As yet I could not see any pendulous cloud from whence it might +come; and was in hopes it would soon lose its force. In 4 or 5 minutes +time it came within a cable's length of us and passed away to leeward; +and then I saw a long pale stream coming down to the whirling water. This +stream was about the bigness of a rainbow: the upper end seemed vastly +high, not descending from any dark cloud and therefore the most strange +to me; I never having seen the like before. It passed about a mile to +leeward of us and then broke. This was but a small spout, not strong nor +lasting; yet I perceived much wind in it as it passed by us. The current +still continued at north-west a little westerly, which I allowed to run a +mile per hour. + +A CONJECTURE CONCERNING A NEW PASSAGE SOUTHWARD. + +By an observation the 13th at noon I found myself 25 minutes to the +northward of my reckoning; whether occasioned by bad steerage, a bad +account, or a current, I could not determine; but was apt to judge it +might be a complication of all; for I could not think it was wholly the +current, the land here lying east by south, and west by north, or a +little more northerly and southerly. We had kept so nigh as to see it, +and at farthest had not been above 20 leagues from it, but sometimes much +nearer; and it is not probable that any current should set directly off +from a land. A tide indeed may; but then the flood has the same force to +strike in upon the shore as the ebb to strike off from it: but a current +must have set nearly alongshore either easterly or westerly; and if +anything northerly or southerly, it could be but very little in +comparison of its east or west course, on a coast lying as this doth; +which yet we did not perceive. If therefore we were deceived by a current +it is very probable that the land is here disjoined, and that there is a +passage through to the southward, and that the land from King William's +Cape to this place is an island, separated from New Guinea by some strait +as New Britain is by that which we came through. But this being at best +but a probable conjecture I shall insist no farther upon it. + +KING WILLIAM'S ISLAND. + +The 14th we passed by Schouten's Island and Providence Island, and found +still a very strong current setting to the north-west. On the 17th the we +saw a high mountain on the main that sent forth great quantities of smoke +from its top: this volcano we did not see in our voyage out. In the +afternoon we discovered King William's Island, and crowded all the sail +we could to get near it before night; thinking to lie to the eastward of +it till day, for fear of some shoals that lie at the west end of it. +Before night we got within 2 leagues of it and, having a fine gale of +wind and a light moon, I resolved to pass through in the night; which I +hoped to do before 12 o'clock if the gale continued; but when we came +within 2 miles of it it fell calm; yet afterwards, by the help of the +current, a small gale, and our boat, we got through before day. In the +night we had a very fragrant smell from the island. + +STRANGE WHIRLPOOLS. + +By morning-light we were got 2 leagues to the westward of it; and then +were becalmed all the morning; and met such whirling tides that when we +came into them the ship turned quite round; and though sometimes we had a +small gale of wind yet she could not feel the helm when she came into +these whirlpools: neither could we get from amongst them till a brisk +gale sprang up; yet we drove not much any way, but whirled round like a +top. And those whirlpools were not constant to one place, but drove about +strangely; and sometimes we saw among them large ripplings of the water, +like great overfalls, making a fearful noise. I sent my boat to sound but +found no ground. + +DISTANCE BETWEEN CAPE MABO AND CAPE ST. GEORGE COMPUTED. + +The 18th Cape Mabo bore south distance 9 leagues. By which account it +lies in the latitude of 50 minutes south and meridian distance from Cape +St. George 1243 miles. St. John's Isle lies 48 miles to the east of Cape +St. George; which, being added to the distance between Cape St. George +and Cape Mabo, makes 1291 meridional parts; which was the furthest that I +was to the east. In my outward-bound voyage I made meridian distance +between Cape Mabo and Cape St. George 1290 miles; and now in my return +but 1243; which is 47 short of my distance going out. This difference may +probably be occasioned by the strong western current which we found in +our return, which I allowed for after I perceived it; and though we did +not discern any current when we went to the eastward, except when near +the islands, yet it is probable we had one against us, though we did not +take notice of it because of the strong westerly winds. King William's +Island lies in the latitude of 21 minutes south, and may be seen +distinctly off of Cape Mabo. + +In the evening we passed by Cape Mabo; and afterwards steered away +south-east half east, keeping along the shore which here trends +south-easterly. The next morning, seeing a large opening in the land with +an island near the south side, I stood in, thinking to anchor there. When +we were shot in within 2 leagues of the island the wind came to the west, +which blows right into the opening. I stood to the north shore; +intending, when I came pretty nigh, to send my boat into the opening, and +sound before I would adventure in. We found several deep bays, but no +soundings within 2 miles of the shore; therefore I stood off again. Then, +seeing a rippling under our lee, I sent my boat to sound on it; which +returned in half an hour and brought me word that the rippling we saw was +only a tide, and that they had no ground there. + + +CHAPTER 5. + +NAVIGATION AMONG THE ISLANDS. + +THE AUTHOR'S RETURN FROM THE COAST OF NEW GUINEA. + +The wind seeming to incline to east, as might be expected according to +the season of the year, I rather chose to shape my course as these winds +would best permit than strive to return the same way we came; which, for +many leagues, must have been against this monsoon: though indeed, on the +other hand, the dangers in that way we already knew; but what might be in +this by which we now proposed to return we could not tell. + +A DEEP CHANNEL. + +We were now in a channel about 8 on 9 leagues wide, having a range of +islands on the north side, and another on the south side, and very deep +water between, so that we had no ground. The 22nd of April in the morning +I sent my boat ashore to an island on the north side, and stood that way +with the ship. They found no ground till within a cable's length of the +shore, and then had coral rocks; so that they could not catch any fish, +though they saw a great many. They brought aboard a small canoe, which +they found adrift. They met with no game ashore save only one +party-coloured parakeet. The land is of an indifferent height; very +rocky, yet clothed with tall trees, whose bare roots run along upon the +rocks. Our people saw a pond of salt-water but found no fresh. Near this +island we met a pretty strong tide but found neither tide nor current off +at some distance. + +On the 24th, being about 2 leagues from an island to the southward of us, +we came over a shoal on which we had but 5 fathom and a half. We did not +descry it till we saw the ground under us. In less than half an hour +before the boat had been sounding in discoloured water, but had no +ground. We manned the boat presently and towed the ship about; and then +sounding had 12, 15, and 17 fathom, and then no ground with our +hand-lead. The shoal was rocky; but in 12 and 15 fathom we had oazy +ground. + +STRANGE TIDES. + +We found here very strange tides that ran in streams, making a great sea; +and roaring so loud that we could hear them before they came within a +mile of us. The sea round about them seemed all broken, and tossed the +ship so that she would not answer her helm. These ripplings commonly +lasted 10 or 12 minutes, and then the sea became as still and smooth as a +mill-pond. We sounded often when in the midst of them, and afterwards in +the smooth water; but found no ground, neither could we perceive that +they drove us any way. + +We had in one night several of these tides that came most of them from +the west; and, the wind being from that quarter, we commonly heard them a +long time before they came; and sometimes lowered our topsails, thinking +it was a gust of wind. They were of great length from north to south, but +their breadth not exceeding 200 yards, and they drove a great pace: for +though we had little wind to move us, yet these would soon pass away and +leave the water very smooth, and just before we encountered them we met a +great swell but it did not break. + +THE ISLAND CERAM DESCRIBED. + +The 26th we saw the island Ceram; and still met some ripplings, but much +fainter than those we had the 2 preceding days. We sailed along the +island Ceram to the westward, edging in withal, to see if peradventure we +might find a harbour to anchor in where we might water, trim the ship, +and refresh our men. + +In the morning we saw a sail to the north of us, steering in for the west +end of Ceram, as we likewise were. In the evening, being near the shore +on the north side of the island, I stood off to sea with an easy sail; +intending to stand in for the shore in the morning, and try to find +anchoring to fill water, and get a little fish for refreshment. +Accordingly in the morning early I stood in with the north-west point of +Ceram; leaving a small island, called Bonao, to the west. The sail we saw +the day before was now come pretty nigh us, steering in also (as we did) +between Ceram and Bonao. I shortened sail a little for him; and when he +got abreast of us not above 2 miles off I sent my boat aboard. It was a +Dutch sloop, come from Ternate, and bound for Amboina: my men whom I sent +in the boat bought 5 bags of new rice, each containing about 130 pounds, +for 6 Spanish dollars. The sloop had many rare parrots aboard for sale +which did not want price. A Malayan merchant aboard told our men that +about 6 months ago he was at Bencola, and at that time the governor +either died or was killed, and that the commander of an English ship then +in that road succeeded to that government. + +In the afternoon, having a breeze at north and north-north-east, I sent +my boat to sound and, standing after her with the ship, anchored in 30 +fathom water oazy sand, half a mile from the shore, right against a small +river of fresh water. The next morning I sent both the boats ashore to +fish; they returned about 10 o'clock with a few mullets and 3 or 4 +cavallies, and some pan-fish. We found variation here 2 degrees 15 +minutes east. + +When the sea was smooth by the land-winds we sent our boats ashore for +water; who, in a few turns, filled all our casks. + +The land here is low, swampy and woody; the mould is a dark grey, friable +earth. Two rivers came out within a bow-shot of each other, just opposite +to the place where we rode: one comes right down out of the country; and +the other from the south, running along by the shore, not musket-shot +from the seaside. The northernmost river is biggest, and out of it we +filled our water; our boats went in and out at any time of tide. In some +places the land is overflown with fresh water, at full sea. The land +hereabouts is full of trees unknown to us, but none of them very large or +high; the woods yield many wild fruits and berries, such as I never saw +elsewhere. We met with no land animals. + +STRANGE FOWLS. + +The fowls we found were pigeons, parrots, cockadores, and a great number +of small birds unknown to me. One of the master's mates killed 2 fowls as +big as crows; of a black colour, excepting that the tails were all white. +Their necks were pretty long, one of which was of a saffron-colour, the +other black. They had very large bills much like a ram's horn; their legs +were strong and short, and their claws like a pigeon's; their wings of an +ordinary length: yet they make a great noise when they fly, which they do +very heavily. They feed on berries, and perch on the highest trees. Their +flesh is sweet; I saw some of the same species at New Guinea, but nowhere +else. + +THE ISLANDS BONAO, BOURO, MISACOMBI, PENTARE, LAUBANA, AND POTORO. + +May the 3rd at 6 in the morning we weighed, intending to pass between +Bonao and Ceram; but presently after we got under sail we saw a pretty +large proa coming about the north-west point of Ceram. Wherefore I stood +to the north to speak with her, putting aboard our ensign. She, seeing us +coming that way, went into a small creek and skulked behind a point a +while: at last discovering her again I sent my boat to speak with her; +but the proa rowed away and would not come nigh it. After this, finding I +could not pass between Bonao and Ceram as I purposed, I steered away to +the north of it. + +This Bonao is a small island lying about 4 leagues from the north-west +point of Ceram. I was informed by the Dutch sloop before mentioned that, +notwithstanding its smallness, it has one fine river, and that the Dutch +are there settled. Whether there be any natives on it or not I know not, +nor what its produce is. They further said that the Ceramers were their +mortal enemies; yet that they were settled on the westermost point of +Ceram in spite of the natives. + +The next day as we approached the island Bouro there came off from it a +very fragrant scent, much like that from King William's Island; and we +found so strong a current setting to the westward that we could scarce +stem it. We plied to get to the southward, intending to pass between +Bouro and Keelang. + +In the evening, being near the west end of Bouro, we saw a brigantine to +the north-west of us, on the north side of Bouro, standing to the +eastward. I would not stand east or west for fear of coming nigh the land +which was on each side of us, namely Bouro on the west, and Keelang on +the east. The next morning we found ourselves in mid-channel between both +islands; and having the wind at south-west we steered south-south-east, +which is right through between both. At 11 o'clock it fell calm; and so +continued till noon; by that time the brigantine which we saw astern the +night before was got 2 or 3 leagues ahead of us. It is probable she met a +strong land-wind in the evening which continued all night; she keeping +nearer the shore than I could safely do. She might likewise have a tide +or current setting easterly, where she was; though we had a tide setting +northwardly against us, we being in mid-channel. + +About 8 at night the brigantine which we saw in the day came close along +by us on our weather-side: our guns were all ready before night, matches +lighted, and small arms on the quarter-deck ready loaded. She standing +one way and we another; we soon got further asunder. But I kept good +watch all the night and in the morning saw her astern of us, standing as +we did. At 10 o'clock, having little wind, I sent the yawl aboard of her. +She was a Chinese vessel laden with rice, arrack, tea, porcelain, and +other commodities, bound for Amboina. The commander said that his boat +was gone ashore for water, and asked our men if they saw her; for she had +been wanting for 2 or 3 days, and they knew not what was become of her. +They had their wives and children aboard, and probably came to settle at +some new Dutch factory. The commander also informed us that the Dutch had +lately settled at Ampoulo, Menippe, Bonao, and on a point of Ceram. The +next day we passed out to the southward between Keelang and Bouro. After +this we had for several days a current setting southerly, and a great +tumbling sea, occasioned more by the strong current than by winds, as was +apparent by the jumping of its waves against each other; and by +observation I found 25 miles more southing than our course gave us. + +On the 14th we discovered the island Misacomba, and the next day sailed +along to the west on the north side of the island. In some charts it is +called Omba; it is a mountainous island, spotted with woods and +savannahs; about 20 leagues long and 5 or 6 broad. We saw no signs of +inhabitants on it. We fell in nearest to the west end of it; and +therefore I chose to pass on to the westward, intending to get through to +the southward between this and the next isle to the west of it, or +between any other 2 islands to the west, where I should meet with the +clearest passage; because the winds were now at north-east and +east-north-east, and the isle lies nearly east and west; so that if the +winds continued I might be a long time in getting to the east end of it, +which yet I knew to be the best passage. In the night, being at the west +end and seeing no clear passage, I stood off with an easy sail, and in +the morning had a fine land-wind, which would have carried us 5 or 6 +leagues to the east if we had made the best of it; but we kept on only +with a gentle gale for fear of a westerly current. In the morning, +finding we had not met with any current as we expected, as soon as it was +light we made sail to the westward again. + +After noon, being near the end of the isle Pentare which lies west from +Misacomba, we saw many houses and plantations in the country, and many +coconut-trees growing by the seaside. We also saw several boats sailing +across a bay or channel at the west end of Misacomba, between it and +Pentare. We had but little wind, and that at north, which blows right in +with a swell rolling in withal; wherefore I was afraid to venture in, +though probably there might be good anchoring and a commerce with the +natives. I continued steering to the west, because, the night before at +sun-setting, I saw a small round high island to the west of Pentare, +where I expected a good passage. + +THE PASSAGE BETWEEN PENTARE AND LAUBANA. + +We could not that day reach the west end of Pentare, but saw a deep bay +to the west of us, where I thought might be a passage through, between +Pentare and Laubana. But as yet the lands were shut one within another, +that we could not see any passage. Therefore I ordered to sail 7 leagues +more westerly, and lie by till next day. In the morning we looked out for +an opening but could see none; yet by the distance and bearing of a high +round island called Potoro, we were got to the west of the opening, but +not far from it. Wherefore I tacked and stood to the east, and the +rather, because I had reason to suppose this to be the passage we came +through in the Cygnet mentioned in my Voyage round the World; but I was +not yet sure of it because we had rainy weather, so that we could not now +see the land so well as we did then. We then accidentally saw the opening +at our first falling in with the islands; which now was a work of some +time and difficul to discover. However before 10 o'clock we saw the +opening plain; and I was the more confirmed in my knowledge of this +passage by a spit of sand and 2 islands at the north-east part of its +entrance. The wind was at south-south-west and we plied to get through +before night; for we found a good tide helping us to the south. About 7 +or 8 leagues to the west of us we saw a high round peaked mountain, from +whose top a smoke seemed to ascend as from a volcano. There were 3 other +very high peaked mountains, 2 on the east and one on the west of that +which smoked. + +In our plying to get through between Pentare and Laubana we had (as I +said) a good tide or current setting us to the southward. And it is to be +observed that near the shores in these parts we commonly find a tide +setting northwardly or southwardly as the land lies; but the northwardly +tide sets not above 3 hours in 12, having little strength; and sometimes +it only checks the contrary current which runs with great violence, +especially in narrow passes such as this between 2 islands. It was 12 at +night before we got clear of 2 other small islands that lay on the south +side of the passage; and there we had a very violent tide setting us +through against a brisk gale of wind. Notwithstanding which I kept the +pinnace out, for fear we should be becalmed. For this is the same place +through which I passed in the year 1687, mentioned in my Voyage round the +World, only then we came out between the western small island and +Laubana, and now we came through between the two small islands. We +sounded frequently but had no ground. I said there that we came through +between Omba and Pentare: for we did not then see the opening between +those 2 islands; which made me take the west side of Pentare for the west +end of Omba, and Laubana for Pentare. But now we saw the opening between +Omba and Pentare; which was so narrow that I would not venture through: +besides I had now discovered my mistake, and hoped to meet with the other +passage again, as indeed we did, and found it to be bold from side to +side, which in the former voyage I did not know. + +THE ISLAND TIMOR. + +After we were through we made the best of our way to Timor, and on May +the 18th in the morning we saw it plain, and made the high land over +Laphao the Portuguese factory, as also the high peak over our first +watering-place, and a small round island about midway between them. + +We coasted along the island Timor, intending to touch at Babao, to get a +little water and refreshments. I would not go into the bay where we first +watered, because of the currents which there whirl about very strangely, +especially at spring tides which were now setting in; besides, the +south-east winds come down in flaws from the mountains, so that it would +have been very dangerous for us. + +BABAO BAY. + +Wherefore we crowded all the sail we could to get to Babao before night, +or at least to get sight of the sandy island at the entrance of the bay; +but could not. So we plied all night; and the next morning entered the +bay. + +There being good ground all over this bay we anchored at 2 o'clock in 30 +fathom water, soft oazy ground. And the morning after I sent my boat +ashore with the seine to fish. At noon she returned and brought enough +for all the ship's company. They saw an Indian boat at a round rocky +island about a mile from them. + +On the 22nd I sent my boat ashore again to fish: at noon she returned +with a few fish, which served me and my officers. They caught one +whiting, the first I had seen in these seas. Our people went over to the +rocky island and there found several jars of turtle, and some hanging up +a-drying, and some cloths; their boat was about a mile off, striking +turtle. Our men left all as they found. In the afternoon a very large +shark came under our stern; I never had seen any near so big before. I +put a piece of meat on a hook for him but he went astern and returned no +more. About midnight, the wind being pretty moderate, I weighed and stood +into the bottom of the bay, and ran over nearer the south shore, where I +thought to lie and water, and at convenient times get fish for our +refreshment. The next morning I sent my pinnace with 2 hogsheads and 10 +barrecoes for water; they returned at noon with the casks full of water; +very thick and muddy, but sweet and good. We found variation 15 minutes +west. + +THE ISLAND ROTI. + +This afternoon, finding that the breezes were set in here, and that it +blew so hard that I could neither fish nor fill water without much +difficulty and hazard of the boat; I resolved to be gone, having good +quantity of water aboard. Accordingly at half an hour after 2 in the +morning we weighed with the wind at east by south, and stood to sea. We +coasted along by the island Roti which is high land, spotted with woods +and savannahs. The trees appeared small and shrubby, and the savannahs +dry and rusty. All the north side has sandy bays by the sea. We saw no +houses nor plantations. + +MORE ISLANDS THAN ARE COMMONLY LAID DOWN IN THE CHARTS. GREAT CURRENTS. + +The next day we crowded all the sail we could to get to the west of all +the isles before night but could not; for at 6 in the evening we saw land +bearing south-west by west. For here are more islands than are laid down +in any charts that I have seen. Wherefore I was obliged to make a more +westerly course than I intended till I judged we might be clear of the +land. And when we were so I could easily perceive by the ship's motion. +For till then, being under the lee of the shore, we had smooth water; but +now we had a troubled sea which made us dance lustily. This turbulent sea +was occasioned in part by the current; which, setting out slanting +against the wind, was by it raised into short cockling seas. I did indeed +expect a south-west current here but not so very strong as we found it. + +On the 26th we continued to have a very strong current setting +southwardly; but on what point exactly I know not. Our whole distance by +log was but 82 miles, and our difference of latitude since yesterday noon +by observation 100 miles, which is 18 miles more than the whole distance; +and our course, allowing no leeway at all, was south 17 degrees west, +which gives but 76 miles difference of latitude, 24 less than we found by +observation. I did expect (as has been said) we might meet a great +current setting to the south yesterday, because there is a constant +current setting out from among those islands we passed through between +Timor and the isles to the west of it, and it is probable, in all the +other openings between the islands, even from the east end of Java to the +end of all that range that runs from thence, both to the east and west of +Timor; but, being got so far out to sea as we were, though there may be a +very great current, yet it does not seem probable to me that it should be +of so great strength as we now found: for both currents and tides lose +their force in the open sea where they have room to spread; and it is +only in narrow places or near headlands that their force is chiefly felt. +Besides, in my opinion, it should here rather set to the west than south; +being open to the narrow sea that divides New Holland from the range of +islands before mentioned. + +The 27th we found that in the last 24 hours we had gone 9 miles less +south than the log gave: so that it is probable we were then out of the +southern current which we felt so much before. We saw many tropic-birds +about us. And found variation 1 degree 25 minutes west. + +WHALES. + +On June the 1st we saw several whales, the first we had at this time seen +on the coast: but when we were here before we saw many; at which time we +were nearer the shore than now. The variation now was 5 degrees 38 +minutes west. + +COAST OF NEW HOLLAND. + +I designed to have made New Holland in about the latitude of 20 degrees, +and steered courses by day to make it, but in the night could not be so +bold; especially since we had sounding. This afternoon I steered in +south-west till 6 o'clock; then, it blowing fresh and night coming on, I +steered west-south-west till we had 40 fathom; and then stood west, which +course carries alongshore. In the morning again from 6 to 12 I steered +west-south-west to have made the land but, not seeing it, I judged we +were to the west of it. Here is very good soundings on this coast. When +we passed this way to the eastward we had, near this latitude of 19 +degrees 50 minutes 38 fathom, about 18 leagues from the land: but this +time we saw not the land. The next morning I saw a great many +scuttle-fish bones which was a sign that we were not far from the land. +Also a great many weeds continually floating by us. + +We found the variation increase considerably as we went westward. For on +the 3rd it was 6 degrees 10 minutes west; on the 4th, 6 degrees 20 +minutes, and on the 6th, 7 degrees 20 minutes. That evening we saw some +fowls like men-of-war-birds flying north-east, as I was told; for I did +not see them, having been indisposed these 3 or 4 days. + +THE TRYAL ROCKS. + +On the 11th we found the variation 8 degrees 1 minute west; on the 12th, +6 degrees 0 minutes. I kept on my course to the westward till the 15th, +and then altered it. My design was to seek for the Tryal Rocks; but, +having been sick 5 or 6 days without any fresh provision or other good +nourishment aboard, and seeing no likelihood of my recovery, I rather +chose to go to some port in time than to beat here any longer; my people +being very negligent when I was not upon deck myself; I found the winds +variable, so that I might go any way, east, west, north, or south; +wherefore it is probable I might have found the said rocks had not +sickness prevented me; which discovery (whenever made) will be of great +use to merchants trading to these parts. + +THE COAST OF JAVA. PRINCES ISLE. STRAITS OF SUNDA. THWART-THE-WAY ISLAND. + +From hence nothing material happened till we came upon the coast of Java. +On the 23rd we saw Princes Isle plain, and the mouth of the Straits of +Sunda. By my computation the distance between Timor and Princes Isle is +14 degrees 22 minutes. The next day in the afternoon, being abreast of +Crockadore Island, I steered away east-north-east for an island that lies +near midway between Sumatra and Java but nearest the Java shore; which is +by Englishmen called Thwart-the-way. We had but small winds till about 3 +o'clock when it freshened, and I was in good hopes to pass through before +day: but at 9 o'clock the wind fell and we got but little. I was then +abreast of Thwart-the-way, which is a pretty high long island; but before +11 the wind turned, and presently afterward it fell calm. I was then +about 2 leagues from the said island; and, having a strong current +against us, before day we were driven astern 4 or 5 leagues. In the +morning we had the wind at north-north-west; it looked black and the wind +unsettled: so that I could not expect to get through. I therefore stood +toward the Java shore, and at 10 anchored in 24 fathom water, black oazy +ground, 3 leagues from the shore. I sounded in the night when it was +calm, and had 54 fathom, coarse sand and coral. + +INDIAN PROAS, AND THEIR TRAFFIC. + +In the afternoon before we had seen many proas; but none came off to us; +and in the night we saw many fires ashore. This day a large proa came +aboard of us, and lay by our side an hour. There were only 4 men in her, +all Javians, who spoke the Malayan language. They asked if we were +English; I answered we were; and presently one of them came aboard and +presented me with a small hen, some eggs and coconuts; for which I gave +some beads and a small looking-glass, and some glass bottles. They also +gave me some sugarcane, which I distributed to such of my men as were +scorbutic. They told me there were 3 English ships at Batavia. + +The 28th at 2 in the afternoon we anchored in 26 fathom water; presently +it fell calm and began to rain very violently and so continued from 3 +till 9 in the evening. At 1 in the morning we weighed with a fine +land-wind at south-south-east; but presently, the wind coming about at +east, we anchored; for we commonly found the current setting west. If at +any time it turned it was so weak that it did us little good; and I did +not think it safe to venture through without a pretty brisk leading gale; +for the passage is but narrow, and I knew not what dangers might be in +the way, nor how the tide sets in the narrow, having not been this way +these 28 years, and all my people wholly strangers: we had the opening +fair before us. + +PASSAGE THROUGH THE STRAIT. + +While we lay here 4 Malayan proas came from the shore, laden with +coconuts, plantains, bananas, fowls, ducks, tobacco, sugar, etc. These +were very welcome, and we purchased much refreshment of them. At 10 +o'clock I dismissed all the boats, and weighed with the wind at +north-west. At half an hour past 6 in the evening we anchored in 32 +fathom water in a coarse sort of oaze. We were now past the island +Thwart-the-way, but had still one of the small islands to pass. The tide +began to run strong to the west; which obliged me to anchor while I had +soundings, for fear of being driven back again or on some unknown sand. I +lay still all night. At 5 o'clock the next morning the tide began to +slacken: at 6 I weighed with the wind at south-east by east, a handsome +breeze. We just weathered the Button; and, sounding several times, had +still between 30 and 40 fathom. When we were abreast of the Button, and +about 2 leagues from the westermost point of Java, we had 34 fathom, +small peppery sand. You may either come between this island and Java, or, +if the wind is northerly, run out between the island Thwart-the-way and +this last small island. + +The wind for the most part being at east and east by south I was obliged +to run over towards the Sumatra shore, sounding as I went, and had from +34 to 23 fathom. In the evening I sounded pretty quick, being got near +the Sumatra shore; and, finding a current setting to the west between 8 +and 9 o'clock, we anchored in 34 fathom. The tide set to the west from 7 +in the evening to 7 this morning; and then, having a small gale at +west-south-west, I weighed and stood over to the Java shore. + +In the evening, having the wind between east-north-east and south-east by +east, we could not keep off the Java shore. Wherefore I anchored in 27 +fathom water, about a league and a half off shore. At the same time we +saw a ship at anchor near the shore, about 2 mile to leeward of us. We +found the tide setting to the westward, and presently after we anchored +it fell calm. We lay still all night and saw many fires ashore. At 5 the +next morning, being July the 1st, we weighed and stood to the north for a +seabreeze: at 10, the wind coming out, I tacked and had a fine brisk +gale. The ship we saw at anchor weighed also and stood after us. While we +passed by Pulo Baby I kept sounding and had no less than 14 fathom. The +other ship, coming after us with all the sail she could make, I shortened +sail on purpose that she might overtake us but she did not. A little +after 5 I anchored in 13 fathom good oazy ground. About 7 in the evening +the ship that followed us passed by close under our stern; she was a +Dutch fly-boat; they told us they came directly from Holland, and had +been in their passage six months. It was now dark, and the Dutch ship +anchored within a mile of us. I ordered to look out sharp in the morning; +that so soon as the Dutchman began to move we might be ready to follow +him; for I intended to make him my pilot. In the morning at half an hour +after 5 we weighed, the Dutchman being under sail before; and we stood +directly after him. At 8, having but little wind, I sent my boat aboard +of him to see what news he had brought from Europe. Soon after we spied a +ship coming from the east, plying on a wind to speak with us, and showing +English colours. I made a signal for my boat, and presently bore away +towards her; and, being pretty nigh, the commander and supercargo came +aboard, supposing we had been the Tuscany galley which was expected then +at Batavia. This was a country ship belonging to Fort St. George, having +come out from Batavia the day before, and bound to Bencola. The commander +told me that the Fleet frigate was at anchor in Batavia Road, but would +not stay there long: he told me also that His Majesty's ships commanded +by Captain Warren were still in India, but he had been a great while from +the coast and had not seen them. He gave me a chart of these straits from +the Button and Cap to Batavia, and showed me the best way in thither. At +11 o'clock, it being calm, I anchored in 14 fathom good oazy ground. + +ARRIVAL AT BATAVIA. + +At 2 o'clock we weighed again; the Dutch ship being under sail before, +standing close to Mansheters Island; but, finding he could not weather +it, he tacked and stood off a little while, and then tacked again. In the +meantime I stood pretty nigh the said island, sounding, but could not +weather it. Then I tacked and stood off, and the Dutch stood in towards +the island; and weathered it. I, being desirous to have room enough, +stood off longer and then went about, having the Dutch ship 4 points +under my lee. I kept after him; but as I came nearer the island I found a +tide setting to the west, so that I could not weather it. Wherefore at 6 +in the evening I anchored in 7 fathom oazy ground, about a mile from the +island: the Dutch ship went about 2 miles further, and anchored also; and +we both lay still all night. At 5 the next morning we weighed again, and +the Dutch ship stood away between the island Cambusses and the main; but +I could not follow because we had a land-wind. Wherefore I went without +the Cambusses, and by noon we saw the ships that lay at the careening +island near Batavia. After the land-wind was spent, which we had at +south-east and south-south-east, the seabreeze came up at east. Then we +went about; and, the wind coming afterward at east-north-east, we had a +large wind to run us into Batavia Road: and at 4 in the afternoon we +anchored in 6 fathom soft oaze. + + +CHAPTER 6. + +HOME VOYAGE AND LOSS OF SHIP. + +THE AUTHOR CONTINUES IN BATAVIA ROAD TO REFIT, TO GET PROVISIONS. + +We found in Batavia Road a great many ships at anchor, most Dutch, and +but one English ship named the Fleet frigate, commanded by one Merry. We +rode a little without them all. Near the shore lay a stout China junk, +and a great many small vessels, namely brigantines, sloops and Malayan +proas in abundance. As soon as I anchored I sent my boat aboard the Fleet +frigate with orders to make them strike their pennant, which was done +soon after the boat went aboard. Then my clerk, whom I sent in the boat, +went for the shore, as I had directed him, to see if the government would +answer my salute: but it was now near night, and he had only time to +speak with the ship-bander, who told him that the government would have +answered my salute with the same number of guns if I had fired as soon as +I anchored; but that now it was too late. In the evening my boat came +aboard and the next morning I myself went ashore, visited the Dutch +general, and desired the privilege of buying such provision and stores as +I now wanted; which he granted me. + +I lay here till the 17th of October following, all which time we had very +fair weather, some tornadoes excepted. In the meantime I supplied the +carpenter with such stores as were necessary for refitting the ship; +which proved more leaky after he had caulked her than she was before: so +that I was obliged to careen her, for which purpose I hired vessels to +take in our guns, ballast, provision and stores. + +ENGLISH SHIPS THEN IN THE ROAD. + +The English ships that arrived here from England were first the Liampo, +commanded by Captain Monk, bound for China; next the Panther commanded by +Captain Robinson; then the Mancel frigate, commanded by Captain Clerk. +All these brought good tidings from England. Most of them had been +unfortunate in their officers; especially Captain Robinson, who said that +some of them had been conspiring to ruin him and his voyage. There came +in also several English country vessels; first a sloop from Benjarr, +commanded by one Russel, bound to Bengal, next the Monsoon, belonging to +Bengal: she had been at Malacca at the same time that His Majesty's ship +the Harwich was there: afterwards came in also another small ship from +Bengal. + +While we stayed here all the forenamed English ships sailed hence; the 2 +Bengal ships excepted. Many Dutch ships also came in here, and departed +again before us. We had several reports concerning our men-of-war in +India, and much talk concerning rovers who had committed several spoils +upon the coast and in the Straits of Malacca. I did not hear of any ships +sent out to quash them. At my first coming in I was told that 2 ships had +been sent from Amboina in quest of me; which was lately confirmed by one +of the skippers, whom I by accident met with here. He told me they had 3 +protests against me; that they came to Pulo Sabuda on the coast of New +Guinea 28 days after my departure thence, and went as far as Schouten's +Island and, hearing no further news of me, returned. Something likewise +to this purpose Mr. Merry, commander of the Fleet frigate, told me at my +first arrival here; and that the general at Batavia had a copy of my +commission and instructions; but I looked upon it as a very improbable +thing. + +While we lay here the Dutch held several consultations about sending some +ships for Europe sooner than ordinary: at last the 16th of October was +agreed upon for the day of sailing, which is 2 months sooner than usual. +They lay ready 2 or 3 days before, and went out on the 10th. Their names +were the Ostresteen, bound to Zealand; the Vanheusen, for Enchiehoust; +and the 3 Crowns, for Amsterdam, commanded by skipper Jacob Uncright, who +was commodore over all the rest. I had by this time finished my business +here, namely fitted the ship, recruited myself with provision, filled all +my water; and, the time of the year to be going for Europe being now at +hand, I prepared to be gone also. + +DEPARTURE FROM BATAVIA. + +Accordingly on the 17th of October, at half an hour after 6 in the +morning, I weighed anchor from Batavia, having a good land-wind at south, +and fair weather: and by the 19th at noon came up with the 3 Dutch ships +before mentioned. The 29th of November in the morning we saw a small hawk +flying about the ship till she was quite tired. Then she rested on the +mizzen-topsail-yard, where we caught her. It is probable she was blown +off from Madagascar by the violent northerly winds; that being the +nighest land to us, though distance near 150 leagues. + +1701. + +TOUCH AT THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. + +The 30th December we arrived at the Cape of Good Hope and departed again +on the 11th of January, 1701. About the end of the month we saw abundance +of weeds or blubber swim by us, for I cannot determine which. It was all +of one shape and colour. As they floated on the water they seemed to be +of the breadth of the palm of a man's hand, spread out round into many +branches about the bigness of a man's finger. They had in the middle a +little knob, no bigger than the top of a man's thumb. They were of a +smoke-colour; and the branches, by their pliantness in the water, seemed +to be more simple than jellies, I have not seen the like before. + +AND AT ST. HELENA. + +The 2nd of February we anchored in St. Helena Road and set sail again +from thence on the 13th. + +ARRIVAL AT THE ISLAND OF ASCENSION. A LEAK SPRUNG. + +On the 21st we made the island of Ascension and stood in towards it. The +22nd between 8 and 9 o'clock we sprung a leak which increased so that the +chain-pump could not keep the ship free. Whereupon I set the hand-pump to +work also, and by 10 o'clock sucked her: then wore the ship, and stood to +the southward to try if that would ease her; and then the chain-pump just +kept her free. At 5 the next morning we made sail and stood in for the +bay; and at 9 anchored in 10 and a half fathom, sandy ground. The south +point bore south-south-west distance 2 miles, and the north point of the +bay north-east half north, distance 2 miles. As soon as we anchored I +ordered the gunner to clear his powder-room that we might there search +for the leak and endeavour to stop it within board if possible; for we +could not heel the ship so low, it being within 4 streaks of the keel; +neither was there any convenient place to haul her ashore. I ordered the +boatswain to assist the gunner; and by 10 o'clock the powder-room was +clear. The carpenter's mate, gunner, and boatswain went down; and soon +after I followed them myself and asked them whether they could come at +the leak: they said they believed they might, but cutting the ceiling; I +told the carpenter's mate (who was the only person in the ship that +understood anything of carpenter's work) that if he thought he could come +at the leak by cutting the ceiling without weakening the ship he might do +it, for he had stopped one leak so before; which though not so big as +this, yet, having seen them both, I thought he might as well do this as +the other. Wherefore I left him to do his best. The ceiling being cut, +they could not come at the leak; for it was against one of the +foot-hook-timbers which the carpenter's mate said he must first cut +before it could be stopped. I went down again to see it, and found the +water to come in very violently. I told them I never had known any such +thing as cutting timbers to stop leaks; but if they who ought to be best +judges in such cases thought they could do any good I bid them use their +utmost care and diligence, promising the carpenter's mate that I would +always be a friend to him if he could and would stop it: he said by 4 +o'clock in the afternoon he would make all well, it being then about 11 +in the forenoon. In the afternoon my men were all employed, pumping with +both pumps; except such as assisted the carpenter's mate. About one in +the afternoon I went down again and the carpenter's mate was cutting the +after-part of the timber over the leak. Some said it was best to cut the +timber away at once; I bid them hold their tongue and let the carpenter's +mate alone; for he knew best and I hoped he would do his utmost to stop +the leak. I desired him to get everything ready for stopping the violence +of the water, before he cut any further; for fear it should overpower us +at once. I had already ordered the carpenter to bring all the oakum he +had, and the boatswain to bring all the waste cloths to stuff in upon +occasion; and had for the same purpose sent down my own bedclothes. The +carpenter's mate said he should want short stanchions to be placed so +that the upper end should touch the deck, and the under-part rest on what +was laid over the leak; and presently took a length for them. I asked the +master-carpenter what he thought best to be done: he replied till the +leak was all open, he could not tell. Then he went away to make a +stanchion, but it was too long: I ordered him to make many of several +lengths, that we might not want of any size. So once more desiring the +carpenter's mate to use his utmost endeavours I went up, leaving the +boatswain and some others there. About 5 o'clock the boatswain came to me +and told me the leak was increased, and that it was impossible to keep +the ship above water; when on the contrary I expected to have had the +news of the leak's being stopped. I presently went down and found the +timber cut away, but nothing in readiness to stop the force of the water +from coming in. I asked them why they would cut the timber before they +had got all things in readiness: the carpenter's mate answered they could +do nothing till the timber was cut that he might take the dimensions of +the place; and that there was a caulk which he had lined out, preparing +by the carpenter's boy. I ordered them in the meantime to stop in oakum, +and some pieces of beef; which accordingly was done, but all to little +purpose: for now the water gashed in with such violence, notwithstanding +all our endeavours to check it, that it flew in over the ceiling; and for +want of passage out of the room overflowed it above 2 foot deep. I +ordered the bulkhead be cut open, to give passage to the water that it +might drain out of the room; and withal ordered to clear away abaft the +bulkhead, that we might bail: so now we had both pumps going and as many +bailing as could; and by this means the water began to decrease; which +gave me some hope of saving the ship. I asked the carpenter's mate what +he thought of it; he said "Fear not; for by 10 o'clock at night I'll +engage to stop the leak." I went from him with a heavy heart; but, +putting a good countenance upon the matter, encouraged my men, who pumped +and bailed very briskly; and when I saw occasion I gave them some drams +to comfort them. About 11 o'clock at night the boatswain came to me and +told me that the leak still increased; and that the plank was so rotten +it broke away like dirt; and that now it was impossible to save the ship; +for they could not come at the leak because the water in the room was got +above it. The rest of the night we spent in pumping and bailing. I worked +myself to encourage my men, who were very diligent; but the water still +increased, and we now thought of nothing but saving our lives. Wherefore +I hoisted out the boat that, if the ship should sink, yet we might be +saved: and in the morning we weighed our anchor and warped in nearer the +shore; yet did but little good. + +WHICH BEING IMPOSSIBLE TO BE STOPPED, THE SHIP IS LOST, BUT THE MEN +SAVED. + +In the afternoon with the help of a seabreeze I ran into 7 fathom and +anchored; then carried a small anchor ashore and warped in till I came +into 3 fathom and a half. Where having fastened her I made a raft to +carry the men's chests and bedding ashore; and before 8 at night most of +them were ashore. In the morning I ordered the sails to be unbent, to +make tents; and then myself and officers went ashore. I had sent ashore a +puncheon and a 36 gallon cask of water with one bag of rice for our +common use: but great part of it was stolen away before I came ashore, +and many of my books and papers lost. + +THEY FIND WATER UPON THE ISLAND. + +On the 26th following we, to our great comfort, found a spring of fresh +water about 8 miles from our tents, beyond a very high mountain which we +must pass over: so that now we were, by God's Providence, in a condition +of subsisting some time; having plenty of very good turtle by our tents, +and water for the fetching. The next day I went up to see the +watering-place, accompanied with most of my officers. We lay by the way +all night and next morning early got thither; where we found a very fine +spring on the south-east side of the high mountain, about half a mile +from its top: but the continual fogs make it so cold here that it is very +unwholesome living by the water. Near this place are abundance of goats +and land-crabs. About 2 mile south-east from the spring we found 3 or 4 +shrubby trees, upon one of which was cut an anchor and cable, and the +year 1642. About half a furlong from these we found a convenient place +for sheltering men in any weather. Hither many of our men resorted; the +hollow rocks affording convenient lodging; the goats, land-crabs, +men-of-war-birds and boobies good food; and the air was here exceeding +wholesome. + +AND ARE BROUGHT BACK TO ENGLAND. + +About a week after our coming ashore our men that lived at this new +habitation saw two ships making towards the island. Before night they +brought me the news; and I ordered them to turn about a score of turtle +to be in readiness for their ships if they should touch here: but before +morning they were out of sight, and the turtle were released again. Here +we continued without seeing any other ship till the second of April; when +we saw 11 sail to windward of the island: but they likewise passed by. +The day after appeared 4 sail, which came to anchor in this bay. They +were His Majesty's ships the Anglesey, Hastings and Lizard; and the +Canterbury East India ship. I went on board the Anglesey with about 35 of +my men; and the rest were disposed of into the other 2 men-of-war. + +We sailed from Ascension the 8th; and continued aboard till the 8th of +May: at which time the men-of-war, having missed St. Jago, where they +designed to water, bore away for Barbados: but I being desirous to get to +England as soon as possible took my passage in the ship Canterbury, +accompanied with my master, purser, gunner, and 3 of my superior +officers. + +... + +INDEX. + +Anabao Island: +its inhabitants. + +Ascension Island: +water found there. + +Babao in Timor. + +Batavia: +arrival there. +its road. +English ships there. +departure from thence. + +Bird Island. + +Birds, strange. + +Bonao Island. + +Bouro Island. + +Britain, New. + +Bird (strange) killed on the coast of New Guinea. + +Burning island. + +Burning island, another described. + +Calabash-trees. + +Calalaloo, herb. + +Cana-fistula-tree described. + +Cape Orford in New Guinea. + +Cape of Good Hope in New Guinea. + +Cave's, Anthony, Island. + +Cape, King William's. + +Cape and Port Gloucester. + +Cape Anne. + +Ceram Island described. + +Channel, a deep one. + +Ciccale, Port. + +Cockles, very big. + +Cockle-merchant, a fish. + +Cockle Island on the coast of New Guinea. + +Cupang Bay in Timor (see Kupang). + +Cross Island, discovered and described. + +Currents (see Tides). + +Distance between Cape Mabo and Cape St. George computed. + +Dutch: +the author's parley with them. +their suspicion of the author. + +Charts (Dutch), their falseness. + +Dutch fort called Concordia. + +Ende Island. + +Fetter Island. + +Figtrees of Timor described. + +Fish, strange. + +Fowls, strange. + +Gerrit Denis (Garret Dennis) Island, inhabitants described. + +Jelly found in the sea. + +George, St.: +Cape and Bay in New Guinea. +another bay. +the inhabitants there. +a large account of the author's attempt to trade with them. + +New Guinea coast: +inhabitants. +their manner of fishing. +the author departs from New Guinea. + +Java Island. + +Indian plantation on the island Timor. + +Indian proas and their traffic. + +John's, St., Island. + +King William's Island. + +Laphao in Timor. + +Laubana Island. + +Leak sprung, incurable. + +Long Island described. + +Lorantuca. + +Mabo, Cape. + +Man-of-war-birds. + +Mansheter's Island. + +Matthias Island. + +Misacomba Island. + +Montague: +Port in New Guinea. +the country thereabouts described and its produce. + +New Guinea. + +Nova Britannia, (see New Britain). + +Omba Island. + +Palmtrees: +a new one conjectured. +a new one discovered. +two sorts described. + +Parley with the Portuguese at Timor. + +Pentare Island. + +Pigeons, great numbers of them on the coast of New Guinea. + +Porta Nova. + +Providence Island. + +Princes Isle. + +Pulo Subada Isle. + +Pulo Baby. + +Return (the author's) to England. + +Rich's (Sir R.) Island. + +Ringing-bird. + +Rook's (Sir George) Island. + +Roti (Rotee) Island. + +Rosemary Island. + +Sago, how made. + +Sandal-tree. + +Schouten's Island. + +Sesial Port in Timor. + +Shark's Bay. + +Ship lost. + +Slingers Bay. + +Snakes: +land-snakes. + +Spout. + +Squally Island. + +Sunda Straits. + +Terra Australis Incognita, what to be expected there. + +Thwart-the-way Island. + +Tides strange and uncertain, see Currents. + +Timor Island: +described. +the Dutch settlement. +the Portuguese settlement. +its inhabitants. +its fruits and animals. +trade. +weather. +the author's departure from it. + +Trees full of worms found in the sea. + +Tryal Rocks. + +Turtle Isles. + +Variation. + +Volcanoes. + +Watersnakes. + +Whales. + +Whirlpools. + +Wishart's Island. + + + + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A Continuation of a Voyage to New +Holland, by William Dampier + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A CONTINUATION OF A VOYAGE *** + +***** This file should be named 15685.txt or 15685.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/1/5/6/8/15685/ + +Produced by Sue Asscher. 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