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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of A Voyage to New Holland, by William Dampier
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: A Voyage to New Holland
+
+Author: William Dampier
+
+Release Date: April 21, 2005 [EBook #15675]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A VOYAGE TO NEW HOLLAND ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Sue Asscher. HTML by Col Choat. Produced from page images
+provided by canadiana.org (http://www.canadiana.org/ECO/mtq?doc=34674)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+A VOYAGE TO NEW HOLLAND ETC.
+
+IN THE YEAR 1699.
+
+
+Wherein are described,
+
+The Canary Islands, the Isles of Mayo and St. Jago. The Bay of
+All-Saints, with the forts and town of Bahia in Brazil. Cape Salvador.
+The winds on the Brazilian coast. Abrolho Shoals. A table of all the
+variations observed in this voyage. Occurrences near the Cape of Good
+Hope. The course to New Holland. Shark's Bay. The isles and coast, etc.
+of New Holland.
+
+Their inhabitants, manners, customs, trade, etc. Their harbours, soil,
+beasts, birds, fish, etc. Trees, plants, fruits, etc.
+
+...
+
+Illustrated with several maps and draughts: also divers birds, fishes and
+plants not found in this part of the world, curiously engraven on copper
+plates.
+
+...
+
+BY CAPTAIN WILLIAM DAMPIER.
+
+...
+
+THE THIRD EDITION.
+
+...
+
+LONDON,
+
+Printed for James and John Knapton at the Crown in St. Paul's Churchyard.
+
+1729.
+
+
+...
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+DEDICATION.
+
+
+THE PREFACE.
+
+
+CHAPTER 1.
+
+The Author's departure from the Downs.
+A caution to those who sail in the Channel.
+His arrival at the Canary Islands.
+Santa Cruz in Tenerife; the road and town, and Spanish wreck.
+Laguna Town lake and country; and Oratavia town and road.
+Of the wines and other commodities of Tenerife, etc. and the governors at
+ Laguna and Santa Cruz.
+Of the winds in these seas.
+The Author's arrival at Mayo.
+Of the Cape Verde Islands; its salt pond compared with that of Salt
+Tortuga; its trade for salt, and frape-boats.
+Its vegetables, silk-cotton, etc.
+Its soil, and towns; its guinea-hens and other fowls, beasts, and fish.
+Of the sea turtles, etc. laying in the wet season.
+Of the natives, their trade and livelihood.
+The Author's arrival at St. Jago; Praya and St. Jago Town.
+Of the inhabitants and their commodities.
+Of the custard-apple, St. Jago Road.
+Fogo.
+
+CHAPTER 2.
+
+The Author's deliberation on the sequel of his voyage, and departure from
+ St. Jago.
+His course, and the winds, etc. in crossing the Line.
+He stands away for the Bay of All-Saints in Brazil; and why.
+His arrival on that coast and in the bay.
+Of the several forts, the road, situation, town, and buildings of Bahia.
+Of its Governor, ships and merchants; and commodities to and from Europe.
+Claying of sugar.
+The season for the European ships, and coir cables: of their Guinea trade
+ and of the coasting trade, and whale killing.
+Of the inhabitants of Bahia; their carrying in hammocks: their
+ artificers, crane for goods, and negro slaves.
+Of the country about Bahia, its soil and product.
+Its timber-trees; the sapiera, vermiatico, commesserie, guitteba, serrie,
+ and mangroves.
+The bastard-coco, its nuts and cables; and the silk-cotton-trees.
+The Brazilian fruits, oranges, etc.
+Of the soursops, cashews and jennipahs.
+Of their peculiar fruits, arisahs, mericasahs, petangos, petumbos,
+ mungaroos, muckishaws, ingwas, otees, and musteran-de-ovas.
+Of the palmberries, physick-nuts, mendibees, etc. and their roots and
+ herbs, etc.
+Of their wildfowl, macaws, parrots, etc.
+The yemma, carrion-crow and chattering-crow, bill-bird, curreso,
+ turtledove and wild pigeons; the jenetee, clocking-hen, crab-catcher,
+ galden, and black heron: the ducks, widgeon and teal; and ostriches to
+ the southward, and of the dunghill-fowls.
+Of their cattle, horses, etc.
+Leopards and tigers.
+Of their serpents; the rattlesnake, small green snake.
+Amphisbaena, small black and small grey snake; the great land-, and the
+ great watersnake; and of the water-dog.
+Of their sea-fish and turtle; and of St. Paul's Town.
+
+CHAPTER 3.
+
+The Author's stay and business at Bahia: of the winds, and seasons of the
+ year there.
+His departure for New Holland.
+Cape Salvador.
+The winds on the Brazilian coast; and Abrolho Shoal; fish and birds: the
+ shearwater bird, and cooking of sharks.
+Excessive number of birds about a dead whale; of the pintado bird, and
+ the petrel, etc.
+Of a bird that shows the Cape of Good Hope to be near: of the
+ sea-reckonings, and variations: and a table of all the variations
+ observed in this voyage.
+Occurrences near the Cape; and the Author's passing by it.
+Of the westerly winds beyond it: a storm, and its presages.
+The Author's course to New Holland; and signs of approaching it.
+Another Abrolho Shoal and storm, and the Author's arrival on part of New
+ Holland.
+That part described, and Shark's Bay, where he first anchors.
+Of the land there, vegetables, birds, etc.
+A particular sort of iguana: fish, and beautiful shells; turtle, large
+ shark, and water-serpents.
+The Author's removing to another part of New Holland: dolphins, whales,
+ and more sea-serpents: and of a passage or strait suspected here: of the
+ vegetables, birds, and fish.
+He anchors on a third part of New Holland, and digs wells, but brackish.
+Of the inhabitants there, and great tides, the vegetables and animals,
+ etc.
+
+
+
+MAPS AND ILLUSTRATIONS.
+
+MAP. CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S NEW VOYAGE TO NEW HOLLAND ETC. IN 1699 ETC.
+
+TABLE 1. CANARY ISLANDS.
+
+TABLE 2. CAPE VERDE ISLANDS.
+
+TABLE 3. BRAZIL.
+
+BIRDS OF THE VOYAGE:
+FIGURE 1: THE PINTADO BIRD.
+FIGURE 2: THIS VERY MUCH RESEMBLES THE GUARAUNA, DESCRIBED AND FIGURED BY
+PISO.
+
+TABLE 4. NEW HOLLAND.
+
+BIRDS OF NEW HOLLAND:
+FIGURE 3: THE HEAD AND GREATEST PART OF THE NECK OF THIS BIRD IS RED AND
+THEREIN DIFFERS FROM THE AVOFETTA OF ITALY.
+FIGURE 4: THE BILL AND LEGS OF THIS BIRD ARE OF A BRIGHT RED.
+FIGURE 5: A NODDY OF NEW HOLLAND.
+FIGURE 6: A COMMON NODDY.
+
+FISH OF NEW HOLLAND:
+FIGURE 1: THE MONKFISH.
+FIGURE 3: A FISH TAKEN ON THE COAST OF NEW HOLLAND.
+FIGURE 6: A REMORA TAKEN STICKING TO SHARKS BACKS.
+FIGURE 8: A CUTTLE TAKEN NEAR NEW HOLLAND.
+FIGURE 9: A FLYING-FISH TAKEN IN THE OPEN SEA.
+
+PLANTS FOUND IN BRAZIL. TABLE 1 PLANTS.
+
+PLANTS FOUND IN NEW HOLLAND. TABLE 2 PLANTS.
+
+PLANTS FOUND IN NEW HOLLAND. TABLE 3 PLANTS.
+
+PLANTS FOUND IN NEW HOLLAND AND TIMOR. TABLE 4 PLANTS.
+
+PLANTS FOUND IN THE SEA NEAR NEW GUINEA. TABLE 5 PLANTS.
+
+FISH OF NEW HOLLAND. PLATE 3 FISHES:
+FIGURE 4: A FISH CALLED BY THE SEAMEN THE OLD WIFE.
+FIGURE 5: A FISH OF THE TUNNY KIND TAKEN ON THE COAST OF NEW HOLLAND.
+
+DOLPHINS. PLATE 2 FISHES:
+FIGURE 2: THE DOLPHIN OF THE ANCIENTS TAKEN NEAR THE LINE, CALLED BY OUR
+SEAMEN A PORPOISE.
+FIGURE 7: A DOLPHIN AS IT IS USUALLY CALLED BY OUR SEAMEN TAKEN IN THE
+OPEN SEA.
+
+
+A VOYAGE TO NEW HOLLAND, ETC. IN THE YEAR 1699.
+
+
+DEDICATION.
+
+To the Right Honourable Thomas, Earl of Pembroke,
+
+Lord President of Her Majesty's Most Honourable Privy Council.
+
+My Lord,
+
+The honour I had of being employed in the service of his late Majesty of
+illustrious memory, at the time when Your Lordship presided at the
+Admiralty, gives me the boldness to ask your protection of the following
+papers. They consist of some remarks made upon very distant climates,
+which I should have the vanity to think altogether new, could I persuade
+myself they had escaped Your Lordship's knowledge. However I have been so
+cautious of publishing any thing in my whole book that is generally known
+that I have denied myself the pleasure of paying the due honours to Your
+Lordship's name in the Dedication. I am ashamed, My Lord, to offer you so
+imperfect a present, having not time to set down all the memoirs of my
+last voyage: but, as the particular service I have now undertaken hinders
+me from finishing this volume, so I hope it will give me an opportunity
+of paying my respects to Your Lordship in a new one.
+
+The world is apt to judge of everything by the success; and whoever has
+ill fortune will hardly be allowed a good name. This, My Lord, was my
+unhappiness in my late expedition in the Roebuck, which foundered through
+perfect age near the island of Ascension. I suffered extremely in my
+reputation by that misfortune; though I comfort myself with the thoughts
+that my enemies could not charge any neglect upon me. And since I have
+the honour to be acquitted by Your Lordship's judgment I should be very
+humble not to value myself upon so complete a vindication. This and a
+world of other favours which I have been so happy as to receive from Your
+Lordship's goodness, do engage me to be with an everlasting respect,
+
+My Lord,
+
+Your Lordship's most faithful and obedient servant,
+
+WILL. DAMPIER.
+
+
+THE PREFACE.
+
+The favourable reception my two former volumes of voyages and
+descriptions have already met with in the world gives me reason to hope
+that, notwithstanding the objections which have been raised against me by
+prejudiced persons, this third volume likewise may in some measure be
+acceptable to candid and impartial readers who are curious to know the
+nature of the inhabitants, animals, plants, soil, etc. in those distant
+countries, which have either seldom or not at all been visited by any
+Europeans.
+
+It has almost always been the fate of those who have made new discoveries
+to be disesteemed and slightly spoken of by such as either have had no
+true relish and value for the things themselves that are discovered, or
+have had some prejudice against the persons by whom the discoveries were
+made. It would be vain therefore and unreasonable in me to expect to
+escape the censure of all, or to hope for better treatment than far
+worthier persons have met with before me. But this satisfaction I am sure
+of having, that the things themselves in the discovery of which I have
+been employed are most worthy of our diligentest search and inquiry;
+being the various and wonderful works of God in different parts of the
+world: and however unfit a person I may be in other respects to have
+undertaken this task, yet at least I have given a faithful account, and
+have found some things undiscovered by any before, and which may at least
+be some assistance and direction to better qualified persons who shall
+come after me.
+
+It has been objected against me by some that my accounts and descriptions
+of things are dry and jejune, not filled with variety of pleasant matter
+to divert and gratify the curious reader. How far this is true I must
+leave to the world to judge. But if I have been exactly and strictly
+careful to give only true relations and descriptions of things (as I am
+sure I have) and if my descriptions be such as may be of use not only to
+myself (which I have already in good measure experienced) but also to
+others in future voyages; and likewise to such readers at home as are
+more desirous of a plain and just account of the true nature and state of
+the things described than of a polite and rhetorical narrative: I hope
+all the defects in my style will meet with an easy and ready pardon.
+
+Others have taxed me with borrowing from other men's journals; and with
+insufficiency, as if I was not myself the author of what I write but
+published things digested and drawn up by others. As to the first part of
+this objection I assure the reader I have taken nothing from any man
+without mentioning his name, except some very few relations and
+particular observations received from credible persons who desired not to
+be named; and these I have always expressly distinguished in my books
+from what I relate as of my own observing. And as to the latter I think
+it so far from being a diminution to one of my education and employment
+to have what I write revised and corrected by friends that, on the
+contrary, the best and most eminent authors are not ashamed to own the
+same thing, and look upon it as an advantage.
+
+Lastly I know there are some who are apt to slight my accounts and
+descriptions of things as if it was an easy matter and of little or no
+difficulty to do all that I have done, to visit little more than the
+coasts of unknown countries, and make short and imperfect observations of
+things only near the shore. But whoever is experienced in these matters,
+or considers things impartially, will be of a very different opinion. And
+anyone who is sensible how backward and refractory the seamen are apt to
+be in long voyages when they know not whither they are going, how
+ignorant they are of the nature of the winds and the shifting seasons of
+the monsoons, and how little even the officers themselves generally are
+skilled in the variation of the needle and the use of the azimuth
+compass; besides the hazard of all outward accidents in strange and
+unknown seas: anyone, I say, who is sensible of these difficulties will
+be much more pleased at the discoveries and observations I have been able
+to make than displeased with me that I did not make more.
+
+Thus much I thought necessary to premise in my own vindication against
+the objections that have been made to my former performances. But not to
+trouble the reader any further with matters of this nature; what I have
+more to offer shall be only in relation to the following voyage.
+
+For the better apprehending the course of this voyage and the situation
+of the places mentioned in it I have here, as in the former volumes,
+caused a map to be engraven with a pricked line representing to the eye
+the whole thread of the voyage at one view, besides charts and figures of
+particular places, to make the descriptions I have given of them more
+intelligible and useful.
+
+Moreover, which I had not opportunity of doing in my former voyages;
+having now had in the ship with me a person skilled in drawing, I have by
+this means been enabled, for the greater satisfaction of the curious
+reader, to present him with exact cuts and figures of several of the
+principal and most remarkable of those birds, beasts, fishes and plants,
+which are described in the following narrative; and also of several
+which, not being able to give any better or so good an account of, as by
+causing them to be exactly engraven, the reader will not find any further
+description of them, but only that they were found in such or such
+particular countries. The plants themselves are in the hands of the
+ingenious Dr. Woodward. I could have caused many others to be drawn in
+like manner but that I resolved to confine myself to such only as had
+some very remarkable difference in the shape of their principal parts
+from any that are found in Europe. I have besides several birds and
+fishes ready drawn, which I could not put into the present volume because
+they were found in countries to the description whereof the following
+narrative does not reach. For, being obliged to prepare for another
+voyage sooner than I at first expected, I have not been able to continue
+the ensuing narrative any further than to my departure from the coast of
+New Holland. But if it please God that I return again safe, the reader
+may expect a continuation of this voyage from my departure from New
+Holland till the foundering of my ship near the island of Ascension.
+
+In the meantime to make the narrative in some measure complete I shall
+here add a summary abstract of the latter part of the voyage, whereof I
+have not had time to draw out of my journals a full and particular
+account at large. Departing therefore from the coast of New Holland in
+the beginning of September 1699 we arrived at Timor September 15 and
+anchored off that island. On the 24th we obtained a small supply of fresh
+water from the governor of a Dutch fort and factory there; we found also
+there a Portuguese settlement and were kindly treated by them. On the 3rd
+of December we arrived on the coast of New Guinea; where we found good
+fresh water and had commerce with the inhabitants of a certain island
+called Pulo Sabuda. After which, passing to the northward, we ranged
+along the coast to the easternmost part of New Guinea, which I found does
+not join to the mainland of New Guinea, but is an island, as I have
+described it in my map, and called it New Britain.
+
+It is probable this island may afford many rich commodities, and the
+natives may be easily brought to commerce. But the many difficulties I at
+this time met with, the want of convenience to clean my ship, the fewness
+of my men, their desire to hasten home, and the danger of continuing in
+these circumstances in seas where the shoals and coasts were utterly
+unknown and must be searched out with much caution and length of time,
+hindered me from prosecuting any further at present my intended search.
+What I have been able to do in this matter for the public service will, I
+hope, be candidly received; and no difficulties shall discourage me from
+endeavouring to promote the same end whenever I have an opportunity put
+into my hands.
+
+May 18 in our return we arrived at Timor. June 21 we passed by part of
+the island Java. July 4 we anchored in Batavia Road, and I went ashore,
+visited the Dutch General, and desired the privilege of buying provisions
+that I wanted, which was granted me. In this road we lay till the 17th of
+October following, when, having fitted the ship, recruited myself with
+provisions, filled all my water, and the season of the year for returning
+towards Europe being come, I set sail from Batavia, and on the 19th of
+December made the Cape of Good Hope, whence departing January 11 we made
+the island of St. Helena on the 31st; and February the 21st the island of
+Ascension; near to which my ship, having sprung a leak which could not be
+stopped, foundered at sea; with much difficulty we got ashore where we
+lived on goats and turtle; and on the 26th of February found, to our
+great comfort, on the south-east side of a high mountain, about half a
+mile from its top, a spring of fresh water. I returned to England in the
+Canterbury East India ship. For which wonderful deliverance from so many
+and great dangers I think myself bound to return continual thanks to
+Almighty God; whose divine providence if it shall please to bring me safe
+again to my native country from my present intended voyage; I hope to
+publish a particular account of all the material things I observed in the
+several places which I have now but barely mentioned.
+
+...
+
+
+
+
+
+A VOYAGE TO TERRA AUSTRALIS.
+
+
+
+
+1699.
+
+CHAPTER 1. DEPARTURE AND PROVISIONING EN ROUTE.
+
+THE AUTHOR'S DEPARTURE FROM THE DOWNS.
+
+I sailed from the Downs early on Saturday, January 14, 1699, with a fair
+wind, in His Majesty's Ship the Roebuck; carrying but 12 guns in this
+voyage and 50 men and boys with 20 months' provision. We had several of
+the King's ships in company, bound for Spithead and Plymouth, and by noon
+we were off Dungeness.
+
+A CAUTION TO THOSE WHO SAIL IN THE CHANNEL.
+
+We parted from them that night, and stood down the Channel, but found
+ourselves next morning nearer the French coast than we expected; Cape de
+Hague bearing south-east and by east 6 leagues. There were many other
+ships, some nearer, some farther off the French coast, who all seemed to
+have gone nearer to it than they thought they should. My master, who was
+somewhat troubled at it at first, was not displeased however to find that
+he had company in his mistake: which as I have heard is a very common
+one, and fatal to many ships. The occasion of it is the not allowing for
+the change of the variation since the making of the charts; which Captain
+Halley has observed to be very considerable. I shall refer the reader to
+his own account of it which he caused to be published in a single sheet
+of paper, purposely for a caution to such as pass to and fro the English
+Channel. And my own experience thus confirming to me the usefulness of
+such a caution I was willing to take this occasion of helping towards the
+making it the more public.
+
+Not to trouble the reader with every day's run, nor with the winds or
+weather (but only in the remoter parts, where it may be more particularly
+useful) standing away from Cape la Hague, we made the start about 5 that
+afternoon; which being the last land we saw of England, we reckoned our
+departure from thence: though we had rather have taken it from the
+Lizard, if the hazy weather would have suffered us to have seen it.
+
+HIS ARRIVAL AT THE CANARY ISLANDS.
+
+The first land we saw after we were out of the Channel was Cape
+Finisterre, which we made on the 19th; and on the 28th made Lancerota,
+one of the Canary Islands of which, and of Allegrance, another of them, I
+have here given the sights, as they both appeared to us at two several
+bearings and distances.
+
+SANTA CRUZ IN TENERIFE; THE ROAD AND TOWN, AND SPANISH WRECK.
+
+We were now standing away for the island Tenerife where I intended to
+take in some wine and brandy for my voyage. On Sunday, half an hour past
+3 in the afternoon, we made the island and crowded in with all our sails
+till five; when the north-east point of the isle bore west-south-west
+distance 7 leagues. But, being then so far off that I could not expect to
+get in before night, I lay by till next morning, deliberating whether I
+should put in at Santa Cruz, or at Oratavia, the one on the east, the
+other on the west side of the island; which lies mostly north and south;
+and these are the principal ports on each side. I chose Santa Cruz as the
+better harbour (especially at this time of the year) and as best
+furnished with that sort of wine which I had occasion to take in for my
+voyage: so there I come to an anchor January 30th, in 33 fathom water,
+black slimy ground; about half a mile from the shore; from which distance
+I took the sight of the town.
+
+In the road ships must ride in 30, 40, or 50 fathom water, not above half
+a mile from the shore at farthest: and if there are many ships they must
+ride close one by another. The shore is generally high land and in most
+places steep too. This road lies so open to the east that winds from that
+side make a great swell, and very bad going ashore in boats: the ships
+that ride here are then often forced to put to sea, and sometimes to cut
+or slip their anchors, not being able to weigh them. The best and
+smoothest landing is in a small sandy cove, about a mile to the
+north-east of the road, where there is good water, with which ships that
+lade here are supplied; and many times ships that lade at Oratavia, which
+is the chief port for trade, send their boats hither for water. That is a
+worse port for westerly than this is for easterly winds; and then all
+ships that are there put to sea. Between this watering-place and Santa
+Cruz are two little forts; which with some batteries scattered along the
+coast command the road. Santa Cruz itself is a small unwalled town
+fronting the sea, guarded with two other forts to secure the road. There
+are about 200 houses in the town, all two stories high, strongly built
+with stone and covered with pantile. It hath two convents and one church,
+which are the best buildings in the town. The forts here could not secure
+the Spanish galleons from Admiral Blake, though they hauled in close
+under the main fort. Many of the inhabitants that are now living remember
+that action in which the English battered the town, and did it much
+damage; and the marks of the shot still remain in the fort walls. The
+wrecks of the galleons that were burnt here lie in 15 fathom water: and
+it is said that most of the plate lies there, though some of it was
+hastily carried ashore at Blake's coming in sight.
+
+LAGUNA TOWN LAKE AND COUNTRY; AND ORATAVIA TOWN AND ROAD.
+
+Soon after I had anchored I went ashore here to the Governor of the town,
+who received me very kindly and invited me to dine with him the next day.
+I returned on board in the evening, and went ashore again with two of my
+officers the next morning; hoping to get up the hill time enough to see
+Laguna, the principal town, and to be back again to dine with the
+Governor of Santa Cruz; for I was told that Laguna was but 3 miles off.
+The road is all the way up a pretty steep hill; yet not so steep but that
+carts go up and down laden. There are public houses scattering by the
+wayside, where we got some wine. The land on each side seemed to be but
+rocky and dry; yet in many places we saw spots of green flourishing corn.
+At farther distances there were small vineyards by the sides of the
+mountains, intermixed with abundance of waste rocky land, unfit for
+cultivation, which afforded only dildo-bushes. It was about 7 or 8 in the
+morning when we set out from Santa Cruz; and, it being fair clear
+weather, the sun shone very bright and warmed us sufficiently before we
+got to the city Laguna; which we reached about 10 o'clock, all sweaty and
+tired, and were glad to refresh ourselves with a little wine in a sorry
+tippling-house: but we soon found out one of the English merchants that
+resided here, who entertained us handsomely at dinner, and in the
+afternoon showed us the town.
+
+Laguna is a pretty large well-compacted town, and makes a very agreeable
+prospect. It stands part of it against a hill, and part in a level. The
+houses have mostly strong walls built with stone and covered with
+pantile. They are not uniform, yet they appear pleasant enough. There are
+many fair buildings; among which are 2 parish churches, 2 nunneries, a
+hospital, 4 convents, and some chapels; besides many gentlemen's houses.
+The convents are those of St. Austin, St. Dominick, St. Francis, and St.
+Diego. The two churches have pretty high square steeples, which top the
+rest of the buildings. The streets are not regular, yet they are mostly
+spacious and pretty handsome; and near the middle of the town is a large
+parade, which has good buildings about it. There is a strong prison on
+one side of it; near which is a large conduit of good water, that
+supplies all the town. They have many gardens which are set round with
+oranges, limes, and other fruits: in the middle of which are pot-herbs,
+salading, flowers, etc. And indeed, if the inhabitants were curious this
+way, they might have very pleasant gardens: for as the town stands high
+from the sea on the brow of a plain that is all open to the east, and
+hath consequently the benefit of the true tradewind, which blows here and
+is most commonly fair; so there are seldom wanting at this town brisk,
+cooling, and refreshing breezes all the day.
+
+On the back of the town there is a large plain of 3 or 4 leagues in
+length and 2 miles wide, producing a thick kindly sort of grass, which
+looked green and very pleasant when I was there, like our meadows in
+England in the spring. On the east side of this plain, very near the back
+of the town, there is a natural lake or pond of fresh water. It is about
+half a mile in circumference; but being stagnant, it is only used for
+cattle to drink of. In the wintertime several sorts of wildfowl resort
+hither, affording plenty of game to the inhabitants of Laguna. This city
+is called Laguna from hence; for that word in Spanish signifies a lake or
+pond. The plain is bounded on the west, the north-west and the south-west
+with high steep hills; as high above this plain as this is above the sea;
+and it is from the foot of one of these mountains that the water of the
+conduit which supplies the town is conveyed over the plain in troughs of
+stone raised upon pillars. And indeed, considering the situation of the
+town, its large prospect to the east (for from hence you see the Grand
+Canary) its gardens, cool arbors, pleasant plain, green fields, the pond
+and aqueduct, and its refreshing breezes; it is a very delightful
+dwelling, especially for such as have not business that calls them far
+and often from home: for, the island being generally mountainous, steep,
+and craggy, full of risings and fallings, it is very troublesome
+travelling up and down in it, unless in the cool of the mornings and
+evenings: and mules and asses are most used by them, both for riding and
+carriage, as fittest for the stony, uneven roads.
+
+Beyond the mountains, on the south-west side, still further up, you may
+see from the town and plain a small peaked hill, overlooking the rest.
+This is that which is called the Pike of Tenerife, so much noted for its
+height: but we saw it here at so great a disadvantage, by reason of the
+nearness of the adjacent mountains to us, that it looked inconsiderable
+in respect to its fame.
+
+OF THE WINES AND OTHER COMMODITIES OF TENERIFE, ETC.
+
+The true malmsey wine grows in this island; and this here is said to be
+the best of its kind in the world. Here is also canary wine, and verdona,
+or green wine. The canary grows chiefly on the west side of the island;
+and therefore is commonly sent to Oratavia; which being the chief seaport
+for trade in the island, the principal English merchants reside there,
+with their consul; because we have a great trade for this wine. I was
+told that that town is bigger than Laguna; that it has but one church,
+but many convents: that the port is but ordinary at best and is very bad
+when the north-west winds blow. These norwesters give notice of their
+coming by a great sea that tumbles in on the shore for some time before
+they come, and by a black sky in the north-west. Upon these signs ships
+either get up their anchors, or slip their cables and put to sea, and ply
+off and on till the weather is over. Sometimes they are forced to do so 2
+or 3 times before they can take in their lading; which it is hard to do
+here in the fairest weather: and for fresh water they send, as I have
+said, to Santa Cruz. Verdona is green, strong-bodied wine, harsher and
+sharper than canary. It is not so much esteemed in Europe, but is
+exported to the West Indies, and will keep best in hot countries; for
+which reason I touched here to take in some of it for my voyage. This
+sort of wine is made chiefly on the east side of the island, and shipped
+off at Santa Cruz.
+
+Besides these wines, which are yearly vended in great plenty from the
+Canary Islands (chiefly from Grand Canary, Tenerife, and Palma) here is
+store of grain, as wheat, barley, and maize, which they often transport
+to other places. They have also some beans and peas, and coches, a sort
+of grain much like maize, sowed mostly to fatten land. They have papaws,
+which I shall speak more of hereafter; apples, pears, plums, cherries,
+and excellent peaches, apricots, guavas, pomegranates, citrons, oranges,
+lemons, limes, pumpkins, onions the best in the world, cabbages, turnips,
+potatoes, etc. They are also well stocked with horses, cows, asses,
+mules, sheep, goats, hogs, conies, and plenty of deer. The Lancerota
+horses are said to be the most mettlesome, fleet, and loyal horses that
+are. Lastly here are many fowls, as cocks, and hens, ducks, pigeons,
+partridges, etc. with plenty of fish, as mackerel, etc. All the Canary
+Islands have of these commodities and provisions more or less: but as
+Lancerota is most famed for horses, and Grand Canary, Tenerife, and Palma
+for wines, Tenerife especially for the best malmsey (for which reason
+these 3 islands have the chief trade) so is Forteventura for
+dunghill-fowls, and Gomera for deer. Fowls and other eatables are dear on
+the trading islands; but very plentiful and cheap on the other; and
+therefore it is best for such ships that are going out on long voyages,
+and who design to take in but little wine, to touch rather at these last;
+where also they may be supplied with wine enough, good and cheap: and,
+for my own part, if I had known before I came hither, I should have gone
+rather to one of those islands than to Tenerife: but enough of this.
+
+AND THE GOVERNORS AT LAGUNA AND SANTA CRUZ.
+
+It is reported they can raise 12,000 armed men on this island. The
+governor or general (as he is called) of all the Canary Islands lives at
+Laguna: his name is Don Pedro de Ponto. He is a native of this island,
+and was not long since President of Panama in the South Seas: who
+bringing some very rich pearls from thence, which he presented to the
+Queen of Spain, was therefore, as it is said, made general of the Canary
+Islands. The Grand Canary is an island much superior to Tenerife both in
+bulk and value; but this gentleman chooses rather to reside in this his
+native island. He has the character of a very worthy person; and governs
+with moderation and justice, being very well beloved.
+
+One of his deputies was the governor of Santa Cruz, with whom I was to
+have dined; but staying so long at Laguna, I came but time enough to sup
+with him. He is a civil, discreet man. He resides in the main fort close
+by the sea. There is a sentinel stands at his door; and he has a few
+servants to wait on him. I was treated in a large dark lower room, which
+has but one small window. There were about 200 muskets hung up against
+the walls, and some pikes; no wainscot, hangings, nor much furniture.
+There was only a small old table, a few old chairs, and 2 or 3 pretty
+long forms to sit on. Having supped with him I invited him on board, and
+went off in my boat. The next morning he came aboard with another
+gentleman in his company, attended by 2 servants: but he was presently
+seasick and so much out of order that he could scarce eat or drink
+anything, but went quickly ashore again.
+
+OF THE WINDS IN THESE SEAS.
+
+Having refreshed my men ashore, and taken in what we had occasion for, I
+sailed away from Santa Cruz on February 4 in the afternoon; hastening out
+all I could, because the north-east winds growing stormy made so great
+sea that the ship was scarce safe in the road; and I was glad to get out,
+though we left behind several goods we had bought and paid for: for a
+boat could not go ashore; and the stress was so great in weighing anchor
+that the cable broke. I designed next for the Island of Mayo, one of the
+Cape Verde Islands; and ran away with a strong north-east wind right
+before it all that night and the next day, at the rate of 10 or 11 miles
+an hour; when it slackened to a more moderate gale. The Canary Islands
+are, for their latitude, within the usual verge of the true or general
+tradewind; which I have observed to be, on this side the equator,
+north-easterly: but then, lying not far from the African shore, they are
+most subject to a north wind, which is the coasting and constant trade,
+sweeping that coast down as low as to Cape Verde; which, spreading in
+breadth, takes in mostly the Canary Islands; though it be there
+interrupted frequently with the true tradewind, north-west winds, or
+other shifts of wind that islands are subject to; especially where they
+lie many together. The Pike of Tenerife, which had generally been clouded
+while we lay at Santa Cruz, appeared now all white with snow, hovering
+over the other hills; but their height made it seem the less
+considerable; for it looks most remarkable to ships that are to the
+westward of it. We had brisk north-north-east and north-east winds from
+Tenerife, and saw flying-fish, and a great deal of sea-thistle weed
+floating. By the 9th of February at noon we were in the latitude of 15
+degrees 4 minutes so we steered away west-north-west for the island of
+Mayo, being by judgment not far to the east of it, and at 8 o'clock in
+the evening lay by till day. The wind was then at west by south, and so
+it continued all night, fair weather, and a small easy gale. All these
+were great signs, that we were near some land, after having had such
+constant brisk winds before. In the morning after sunrise we saw the
+island at about 4 leagues distance. But it was so hazy over it that we
+could see but a small part of it; yet even by that part I knew it to be
+the isle of Mayo. See how it appeared to us at several views as we were
+compassing the east and south-east and south of it, to get to the road,
+on the south-west of it, and the road itself.
+
+THE AUTHOR'S ARRIVAL AT MAYO.
+
+I got not in till the next day, February 11, when I come to an anchor in
+the road, which is the leeward part of the island; for it is a general
+rule never to anchor to windward of an island between the tropics. We
+anchored at 11 o'clock in 14 fathom clean sand, and very smooth water,
+about three-quarters of a mile from the shore, in the same place where I
+anchored in my voyage round the world; and found riding here the Newport
+of London, a merchantman, Captain Barefoot commander, who welcomed me
+with 3 guns and I returned one for thanks. He came from Fayal, one of the
+western islands; and had store of wine and brandy aboard. He was taking
+in salt to carry to Newfoundland, and was very glad to see one of the
+King's ships, being before our coming afraid of pirates, which of late
+years had much infested this and the rest of the Cape Verde Islands.
+
+I have given some account of the island of Mayo and of other of these
+islands in my Voyage round the World, but I shall now add some further
+observations that occurred to me in this voyage. The island of Mayo is
+about 7 leagues in circumference, of a roundish form, with many small
+rocky points shooting out into the sea a mile or more. Its latitude is 15
+degrees north, and as you sail about the isle, when you come pretty nigh
+the shore, you will see the water breaking off from those points; which
+you must give a berth to and avoid them. I sailed at this time two parts
+in three round the island, but saw nothing dangerous besides these
+points; and they all showed themselves by the breaking of the water: yet
+it is reported that on the north and north-north-west side there are
+dangerous shoals that lie farther off at sea; but I was not on that side.
+There are 2 hills on this island of a considerable height; one pretty
+bluff, the other peaked at top. The rest of the island is pretty level
+and of a good height from the sea. The shore clear round hath sandy bays
+between the rocky points I spoke of, and the whole island is a very dry
+sort of soil.
+
+OF THE CAPE VERDE ISLANDS; ITS SALT POND COMPARED WITH THAT OF SALT
+TORTUGA; ITS TRADE FOR SALT, AND FRAPE-BOATS.
+
+On the west side of the isle where the road for ships is, there is a
+large sandy bay and a sandbank of about 40 paces wide within it which
+runs along the shore 2 or 3 miles; within which there is a large salina
+or salt pond, contained between the sandbank and the hills beyond it. The
+whole salina is about 2 miles in length, and half a mile wide; but above
+one half of it its commonly dry. The north end only of the pond never
+wants water, producing salt from November till May, which is here the dry
+season of the year. The water which yields this salt works in from out of
+the sea through a hole in the sandbank before mentioned, like a sluice,
+and that only in spring tides when it fills the pond more or less,
+according to the height of the tides. If there is any salt in the ponds
+when the flush of water comes in it presently dissolves: but then in 2 or
+3 days after it begins to kern; and so continues kerning till either all
+or the greatest part of the salt water is congealed or kerned; or till a
+fresh supply of it comes in again from the sea. This water is known to
+come in only at that one passage on the north part of the pond; where
+also it is deepest. It was at a spring of the new moon when I was there;
+and I was told that it comes in at no other time but at the new moon
+spring tides; but why that should be I can't guess. They who come hither
+to lade salt rake it up as it kerns, and lay it in heaps on the dry land,
+before the water breaks in anew: and this is observable of this salt
+pond, that the salt kerns only in the dry season, contrary to the salt
+ponds in the West Indies, particularly those of the island Salt Tortuga,
+which I have formerly mentioned, for they never kern there till the rains
+come in about April; and continue to do so in May, June, July etc. while
+the wet season lasts; and not without some good shower of rain first: but
+the reason also of this difference between the salt ponds of Mayo and
+those of the West Indies why these should kern in the wet season, and the
+former in the dry season, I shall leave to philosophers.
+
+Our nation drives here a great trade for salt, and have commonly a
+man-of-war here for the guard of our ships and barks that come to take it
+in; of which I have been informed that in some years there have not been
+less than 100 in a year. It costs nothing but men's labour to rake it
+together, and wheel it out of the pond, except the carriage: and that
+also is very cheap; the inhabitants having plenty of asses for which they
+have little to do besides carrying the salt from the ponds to the seaside
+at the season when ships are here. The inhabitants lade and drive their
+asses themselves, being very glad to be employed; for they have scarce
+any other trade but this to get a penny by. The pond is not above half a
+mile from the landing-place, so that the asses make a great many trips in
+a day. They have a set number of turns to and fro both forenoon and
+afternoon, which their owners will not exceed. At the landing-place there
+lies a frape-boat, as our seamen call it, to take in the salt. It is made
+purposely for this use, with a deck reaching from the stern a third part
+of the boat; where there is a kind of bulkhead that rises not from the
+boat's bottom but from the edge of the deck to about 2 foot in height;
+all caulked very tight. The use of it is to keep the waves from dashing
+into the boat when it lies with its head to the shore to take in salt:
+for here commonly runs a great sea; and when the boat lies so with its
+head to the shore the sea breaks in over the stern, and would soon fill
+it was it not for this bulkhead, which stops the waves that come flowing
+upon the deck and makes them run off into the sea on each side. To keep
+the boat thus with the head to the shore and the stern to the sea there
+are two strong stanchions set up in the boat, the one at the head, the
+other in the middle of it, against the bulkhead, and a foot higher than
+the bulkhead. There is a large notch cut in the top of each of these
+stanchions big enough for a small hawser or rope to lie in; one end of
+which is fastened to a post ashore, and the other to a grappling or
+anchor lying a pretty way off at sea: this rope serves to haul the boat
+in and out, and the stanchions serve to keep her fast, so that she cannot
+swing to either side when the rope is hauled tight: for the sea would
+else fill her, or toss her ashore and stave her. The better to prevent
+her staving and to keep her the tighter together there are two sets of
+ropes more: the first going athwart from gunwale to gunwale, which, when
+the rowers benches are laid, bind the boats sides so hard against the
+ends of the benches that they cannot easily fall asunder, while the
+benches and ropes mutually help each other; the ropes keeping the boat's
+sides from flying off, and the benches from being crushed together
+inwards. Of these ropes there are usually but two, dividing the boat's
+length as they go across the sides into three equal parts. The other set
+of ropes are more in number, and are so placed as to keep the ribs and
+planks of the boat from starting off. For this purpose there are holes
+made at certain distances through the edge of the keel that runs along on
+the inside of the boat; through which these ropes passing are laid along
+the ribs so as to line them, or be themselves as ribs upon them, being
+made fast to them by rattans brought thither, or small cords twisted
+close about both ropes and ribs, up to the gunwale: by which means though
+several of the nails or pegs of the boat should by any shock fall out,
+yet the ropes of these two sets might hold her together: especially with
+the help of a rope going quite round about the gunwale on the outside, as
+our longboats have. And such is the care taken to strengthen the boats;
+from which girding them with ropes, which our seamen call fraping, they
+have the name of frape-boats. Two men suffice to haul her in and out, and
+take in the salt from shore (which is brought in bags) and put it out
+again. As soon as the boat is brought nigh enough to the shore he who
+stands by the bulkhead takes instantly a turn with the hawser about the
+bulkhead stanchion; and that stops her fast before the sea can turn her
+aside: and when the two men have got in their lading they haul off to sea
+till they come a little without the swell; where they remove the salt
+into another boat that carries it on board the ship. Without such a
+frape-boat here is but bad landing at any time: for though it is commonly
+very smooth in the road, yet there falls a great sea on the shore, so
+that every ship that comes here should have such a boat, and bring or
+make or borrow one of the other ships that happen to be here; for the
+inhabitants have none. I have been thus particular in the description of
+these frape-boats because of the use they may be of in any places where a
+great sea falls in upon the shore: as it does especially in many open
+roads in the East and West Indies; where they might therefore be very
+serviceable; but I never saw any of them there.
+
+ITS VEGETABLES, SILK-COTTON, ETC. ITS SOIL, AND TOWNS; ITS GUINEA-HENS
+AND OTHER FOWLS, BEASTS, AND FISH. OF THE SEA TURTLES, ETC. LAYING IN THE
+WET SEASON. OF THE NATIVES, THEIR TRADE AND LIVELIHOOD.
+
+The island Mayo is generally barren, being dry, as I said; and the best
+of it is but a very indifferent soil. The sandy bank that pens in the
+salt pond has a sort of silk-cotton growing upon it, and a plant that
+runs along upon the ground, branching out like a vine, but with thick
+broad leaves. The silk-cotton grows on tender shrubs, 3 or 4 foot high,
+in cods as big as an apple, but of a long shape; which when ripe open at
+one end, parting leisurely into 4 quarters; and at the first opening the
+cotton breaks forth. It may be of use for stuffing of pillows, or the
+like, but else is of no value, any more than that of the great
+cotton-tree. I took of these cods before that were quite ripe, and laid
+them in my chest; and in 2 or 3 days they would open and throw out the
+cotton. Others I have bound fast with strings, so that the cod could not
+open; and in a few days after, as soon as I slackened the string never so
+little, the cod would burst and the cotton fly out forcibly at a very
+little hole, just as the pulp out of a roasting apple, till all has been
+out of the cod. I met with this sort of cotton afterwards at Timor (where
+it was ripe in November) and nowhere else in all my travels; but I found
+two other sorts of silk-cotton at Brazil, which I shall there describe.
+The right cotton-shrub grows here also, but not on the sandbank. I saw
+some bushes of it near the shore; but the most of it is planted in the
+middle of the isle, where the inhabitants live, cotton-cloth being their
+chief manufacture; but neither is there any great store of this cotton.
+There also are some trees within the island, but none to be seen near the
+seaside; nothing but a few bushes scattering up and down against the
+sides of the adjacent hills; for as I said before the land is pretty high
+from the sea. The soil is for the most part either a sort of sand, or
+loose crumbling stone, without any fresh-water ponds or streams to
+moisten it, but only showers in the wet season which run off as fast as
+they fall, except a small spring in the middle of the isle, from which
+proceeds a little stream of water that runs through a valley between the
+hills. There the inhabitants live in three small towns, having a church
+and padre in each town: and these towns, as I was informed, are 6 or 7
+miles from the road. Pinose is said to be the chief town, and to have 2
+churches: St. John's the next, and the third Lagoa. The houses are very
+mean: small, low things. They build with figtree, here being, as I was
+told, no other trees fit to build with. The rafters are a sort of wild
+cane. The fruits of this isle are chiefly figs and watermelons. They have
+also callavances (a sort of pulse like French beans) and pumpkins for
+ordinary food. The fowls are flamingos, great curlews, and guinea-hens,
+which the natives of those islands call galena pintata, or the painted
+hen; but in Jamaica, where I have seen also those birds in the dry
+savannahs and woods (for they love to run about in such places) they are
+called guinea-hens. They seem to be much of the nature of partridges.
+They are bigger than our hens, have long legs, and will run apace. They
+can fly too but not far, having large heavy bodies and but short wings
+and short tails: as I have generally observed that birds have seldom long
+tails unless such as fly much; in which their tails are usually
+serviceable to their turning about as a rudder to a ship or boat. These
+birds have thick and strong yet sharp bills, pretty long claws, and short
+tails. They feed on the ground, either on worms, which they find by
+tearing open the earth; or on grasshoppers, which are plentiful here. The
+feathers of these birds are speckled with dark and light grey; the spots
+so regular and uniform that they look more beautiful than many birds that
+are decked with gayer feathers. Their necks are small and long; their
+heads also but little. The cocks have a small rising on their crowns,
+like a sort of a comb. It is of the colour of a dry walnut shell, and
+very hard. They have a small red gill on each side of their heads, like
+ears, strutting out downwards; but the hens have none. They are so strong
+that one cannot hold them; and very hardy. They are very good meat,
+tender, and sweet; and in some the flesh is extraordinary white; though
+some others have black flesh: but both sorts are very good. The natives
+take them with dogs, running them down whenever they please; for here are
+abundance of them. You shall see 2 or 300 in a company. I had several
+brought aboard alive, where they throve very well; some of them 16 or 18
+months; when they began to pine. When they are taken young they will
+become tame like our hens. The flamingos I have already described at
+large. They have also many other sort of fowls, namely pigeons and
+turtledoves; miniotas, a sort of land-fowls as big as crows, of a grey
+colour, and good food; crusias, another sort of grey-coloured fowl almost
+as big as a crow, which are only seen in the night (probably a sort of
+owls) and are said to be good for consumptive people but eaten by none
+else. Rabeks, a sort of large grey eatable fowls with long necks and
+legs, not unlike herons; and many kinds of small birds.
+
+Of land animals here are goats, as I said formerly, and asses good store.
+When I was here before they were said to have had a great many bulls and
+cows: but the pirates who have since miserably infested all these islands
+have much lessened the number of those; not having spared the inhabitants
+themselves: for at my being there this time the governor of Mayo was but
+newly returned from being a prisoner among them, they having taken him
+away, and carried him about with them for a year or two.
+
+The sea is plentifully stocked with fish of divers sorts, namely
+dolphins, bonetas, mullet, snapper, silver-fish, garfish, etc. And here
+is a good bay to haul a seine or net in. I hauled mine several times, and
+to good purpose; dragging ashore at one time 6 dozen of great fish, most
+of them large mullet of a foot and a half or two foot long. Here are also
+porpoises, and a small sort of whales that commonly visit this road every
+day. I have already said that the months of May, June, July and August
+(that is, the wet season) are the time when the green-turtle come hither
+and go ashore to lay their eggs. I look upon it as a thing worth taking
+notice of that the turtle should always, both in north and south
+latitude, lay their eggs in the wet months. It might be thought,
+considering what great rains there are then in some places where these
+creatures lay, that their eggs should be spoiled by them. But the rain,
+though violent, is soon soaked up by the sand wherein the eggs are
+buried; and perhaps sinks not so deep into it as the eggs are laid: and
+keeping down the heat may make the sand hotter below than it was before,
+like a hot-bed. Whatever the reason may be why Providence determines
+these creatures to this season of laying their eggs, rather than the dry,
+in fact it is so, as I have constantly observed; and that not only with
+the sea-turtle but with all other sorts of amphibious animals that lay
+eggs; as crocodiles, alligators, iguanas etc. The inhabitants of this
+island, even their governor and padres, are all negroes, wool-pated like
+their African neighbours; from whom it is like they are descended;
+though, being subjects to the Portuguese, they have their religion and
+language. They are stout, lusty, well-limbed people, both men and women,
+fat and fleshy; and they and their children as round and plump as little
+porpoises; though the island appears so barren to a stranger as scarce to
+have food for its inhabitants. I enquired how many people there might be
+on the isle; and was told by one of the padres that here were 230 souls
+in all. The negro governor has his patent from the Portuguese governor of
+St. Jago. He is a very civil and sensible poor man; and they are
+generally a good sort of people. He expects a small present from every
+commander that lades salt here; and is glad to be invited aboard their
+ships. He spends most of his time with the English in the salting season,
+which is his harvest; and indeed, all the islanders are then fully
+employed in getting somewhat; for they have no vessels of their own to
+trade with, nor do any Portuguese vessels come hither: scarce any but
+English, on whom they depend for trade: and though subjects of Portugal,
+have a particular value for us. We don't pay them for their salt, but for
+the labour of themselves and their beasts in lading it: for which we give
+them victuals, some money, and old clothes, namely hats, shirts, and
+other clothes: by which means many of them are indifferently well rigged;
+but some of them go almost naked. When the turtle season comes in they
+watch the sandy bays in the night to turn them; and having small huts at
+particular places on the bays to keep them from the rain, and to sleep
+in: and this is another harvest they have for food; for by report there
+come a great many turtle to this and the rest of the Cape Verde Islands.
+When the turtle season is over they have little to do but to hunt for
+guinea-hens and manage their small plantations. But by these means they
+have all the year some employment or other; whereby they get a
+subsistence though but little else. When any of them are desirous to go
+over to St. Jago they get a licence from the governor and desire passage
+in any English ship that is going thither: and indeed all ships that lade
+salt here will be obliged to touch at St. Jago for water, for here at the
+bay is none, not so much as for drinking. It is true there is a small
+well of brackish water not half a mile from the landing-place which the
+asses that carry salt drink at; but it is very bad water. Asses
+themselves are a commodity in some of these islands, several of our ships
+coming hither purposely to freight with them and carry them to Barbados
+and our other plantations. I stayed at Mayo 6 days and got 7 or 8 ton of
+salt aboard for my voyage: in which time there came also into this road
+several sail of merchants ships for salt; all bound with it for
+Newfoundland.
+
+THE AUTHOR'S ARRIVAL AT ST. JAGO; PRAYA AND ST. JAGO TOWN.
+
+The 19th day of February, at about one o'clock in the morning, I weighed
+from Mayo Road in order to water at St. Jago, which was about 5 or 6
+leagues to the westward. We coasted along the island St. Jago and passed
+by the port on the east of it I mentioned formerly which they call Praya;
+where some English outward-bound East-Indiamen still touch, but not so
+many of them as heretofore. We saw the fort upon the hill, the houses and
+coconut-trees: but I would not go in to anchor here because I expected
+better water on the south-west of the island at St. Jago Town. By eight
+o'clock in the morning we saw the ships in that road, being within 3
+leagues of it: but were forced to keep turning many hours to get in, the
+flaws of wind coming so uncertain; as they do especially to the leeward
+of islands that are high land. At length two Portuguese boats came off to
+help tow us in; and about three o'clock in the afternoon we came to an
+anchor and took the prospect of the town. We found here, besides two
+Portuguese ships bound for Brazil whose boats had towed us in, an English
+pink that had taken in asses at one of the Cape Verde Islands and was
+bound to Barbados with them. Next morning I went ashore with my officers
+to the governor, who treated us with sweetmeats: I told him the occasion
+of my coming was chiefly for water; and that I desired also to take in
+some refreshments of fowls, etc. He said I was welcome, and that he would
+order the townsmen to bring their commodities to a certain house, where I
+might purchase what I had occasion for: I told him I had not money but
+would exchange some of the salt which I brought from Mayo for their
+commodities. He replied that salt was indeed an acceptable commodity with
+the poor people, but that if I designed to buy any cattle I must give
+money for them. I contented myself with taking in dunghill-fowls: the
+governor ordering a crier to go about the town and give notice to the
+people that they might repair to such a place with fowls and maize for
+feeding them where they might get salt in exchange for them: so I sent on
+board for salt and ordered some of my men to truck the same for the fowls
+and maize while the rest of them were busy in filling of water. This is
+the effect of their keeping no boats of their own on the several islands,
+that they are glad to by even their own salt of foreigners for want of
+being able to transport it themselves from island to island.
+
+St. Jago Town lies on the south-west part of the island in latitude about
+15 degrees north, and is the seat of the general governor and of the
+bishop of all the Cape Verde Islands. This town stands scattering against
+the sides of two mountains, between which there is a deep valley, which
+is about 200 yards wide against the sea; but within a quarter of a mile
+it closes up so as not to be 40 yards wide. In the valley by the sea
+there is a straggling street, houses on each side, and a run of water in
+the bottom which empties itself into a fine small cove or sandy bay where
+the sea is commonly very smooth; so that here is good watering and good
+landing at any time; though the road be rocky and bad for ships. Just by
+the landing-place there is a small fort, almost level with the sea, where
+is always a court of guard kept. On the top of the hill, above the town,
+there is another fort which, by the wall that is to be seen from the
+road, seems to be a large place. They have cannon mounted there, but how
+many know not: neither what use that fort can be of except it be for
+salutes. The town may consist of 2 or 300 houses, all built of rough
+stone; having also one convent, and one church.
+
+OF THE INHABITANTS AND THEIR COMMODITIES.
+
+The people in general are black, or at least of a mixed colour, except
+only some few of the better sort, namely the governor, the bishop, some
+gentlemen, and some of the padres; for some of these also are black. The
+people about Praya are thievish; but these of St. Jago Town, living under
+their governor's eye, are more orderly, though generally poor, having
+little trade: yet besides chance ships of other nations there come hither
+a Portuguese ship or two every year, in their way to Brazil. These vend
+among them a few European commodities, and take of their principal
+manufactures, namely striped cotton cloth which they carry with them to
+Brazil. Here is also another ship comes hither from Portugal for sugar,
+their other manufacture, and returns with it directly thither: for it is
+reported that there are several small sugar-works on this island from
+which they send home near 100 ton every year; and they have plenty of
+cotton growing up in the country wherewith they clothe themselves, and
+send also a great deal to Brazil. They have vines of which they make some
+wine; but the European ships furnish them with better; though they drink
+but little of any. Their chief fruits are (besides plantains in
+abundance) oranges, lemons, citrons, melons (both musk and watermelons)
+limes, guavas, pomegranates, quinces, custard-apples, and papaws, etc.
+
+OF THE CUSTARD-APPLE, ST. JAGO ROAD.
+
+The custard-apple (as we call it) is a fruit as big as a pomegranate, and
+much of the same colour. The outside husk, shell, or rind, is for
+substance and thickness between the shell of a pomegranate, and the peel
+of a seville orange; softer than this, yet more brittle than that. The
+coat or covering is also remarkable in that it is beset round with small
+regular knobs or risings; and the inside of the fruit is full of a white
+soft pulp, sweet and very pleasant, and most resembling a custard of any
+thing, both in colour and taste; from whence probably it is called a
+custard-apple by our English. It has in the middle a few small black
+stones or kernels; but no core, for it is all pulp. The tree that bears
+this fruit is about the bigness of a quince-tree, with long, small, and
+thick-set branches spread much abroad: at the extremity of here and there
+one of which the fruit grows upon a stalk of its own about 9 or 10 inches
+long, slender and tough, and hanging down with its own weight. A large
+tree of this sort does not bear usually above 20 or 30 apples, seldom
+more. This fruit grows in most countries within the tropics, I have seen
+of them (though I omitted the description of them before) all over the
+West Indies, both continent and islands; as also in Brazil, and in the
+East Indies.
+
+The papaw too is found in all these countries, though I have not hitherto
+described it. It is a fruit about the bigness of a musk-melon, hollow as
+that is, and much resembling it in shape and colour, both outside and
+inside: only in the middle, instead of flat kernels, which the melons
+have, these have a handful of small blackish seeds about the bigness of
+peppercorns; whose taste is also hot on the tongue somewhat like pepper.
+The fruit itself is sweet, soft and luscious, when ripe; but while green
+it is hard and unsavoury: though even then being boiled and eaten with
+salt-pork or beef, it serves instead of turnips and is as much esteemed.
+The papaw-tree is about 10 or 12 foot high. The body near the ground may
+be a foot and a half or 2 foot diameter; and it grows up tapering to the
+top. It has no branches at all, but only large leaves growing immediately
+upon stalks from the body. The leaves are of a roundish form and jagged
+about the edges, having their stalks or stumps longer or shorter as they
+grow near to or further from the top. They begin to spring from out of
+the body of the tree at about 6 or 7 foot height from the ground, the
+trunk being bare below: but above that the leaves grow thicker and larger
+still towards its top, where they are close and broad. The fruit grows
+only among the leaves; and thickest among the thickest of them; insomuch
+that towards the top of the tree the papaws spring forth from its body as
+thick as they can stick one by another. But then lower down where the
+leaves are thinner the fruit is larger, and of the size I have described:
+and at the top where they are thick they are but small, and no bigger
+than ordinary turnips; yet tasted like the rest.
+
+Their chief land animals are their bullocks, which are said to be many;
+though they ask us 20 dollars apiece for them; they have also horses,
+asses, and mules, deer, goats, hogs, and black-faced long-tailed monkeys.
+Of fowls they have cocks and hens, ducks, guinea-hens, both tame and
+wild, parakeets, parrots, pigeons, turtledoves, herons, hawks,
+crab-catchers, galdens (a larger sort of crab-catchers) curlews, etc.
+Their fish is the same as at Mayo and the rest of these islands, and for
+the most part these islands have the same beasts and birds also; but some
+of the isles have pasturage and employment for some particular beasts
+more than other; and the birds are encouraged, by woods for shelter, and
+maize and fruits for food, to flock to some of the islands (as to this of
+St. Jago) than to others.
+
+FOGO.
+
+St. Jago Road is one of the worst that I have been in. There is not clean
+ground enough for above three ships; and those also must lie very near
+each other. One even of these must lie close to the shore, with a
+land-fast there: and that is the best for a small ship. I should not have
+come in here if I had not been told that it was a good secure place; but
+I found it so much otherways that I was in pain to be gone. Captain
+Barefoot, who came to an anchor while I was here, in foul ground, lost
+quickly 2 anchors; and I had lost a small one. The island Fogo shows
+itself from this road very plain, at about 7 or 8 leagues distance; and
+in the night we saw the flames of fire issuing from its top.
+
+
+CHAPTER 2.
+
+SOUTH OF THE LINE TO BRAZIL.
+
+THE AUTHOR'S DELIBERATION ON THE SEQUEL OF HIS VOYAGE AND DEPARTURE FROM
+ST. JAGO.
+
+Having despatched my small affairs at the Cape Verde Islands I meditated
+on the process of my voyage. I thought it requisite to touch once more at
+a cultivated place in these seas, where my men might be refreshed, and
+might have a market wherein to furnish themselves with necessaries: for,
+designing that my next stretch should be quite to New Holland, and
+knowing that after so long a run nothing was to be expected there but
+fresh water, if I could meet even with that there, I resolved upon
+putting in first at some port of Brazil, and to provide myself there with
+whatever I might have further occasion for. Beside the refreshing and
+furnishing my men I aimed also at the inuring them gradually and by
+intervals to the fatigues that were to be expected in the remainder of
+the voyage, which was to be in a part of the world they were altogether
+strangers to: none of them, except two young men, having ever crossed the
+Line.
+
+HIS COURSE, AND THE WINDS, ETC. IN CROSSING THE LINE.
+
+With this design I sailed from St. Jago on the 22nd of February with the
+winds at east-north-east and north-east fair weather and a brisk gale. We
+steered away south-south-east and south-south-east half east till in the
+latitude of 7 degrees 50 minutes we met with many ripplings in the sea
+like a tide or strong current, which setting against the wind caused such
+a rippling. We continued to meet these currents from that latitude till
+we came into the latitude of 3 degrees 22 north when they ceased. During
+this time we saw some bonetas and sharks; catching one of these. We had
+the true general tradewind blowing fresh at north-east till in the
+latitude of 4 degrees 40 minutes north when the wind varied, and we had
+small gales with some tornados. We were then to the east of St. Jago 4
+degrees 54 minutes when we got into latitude 3 degrees 2 minutes north
+(where I said the rippling ceased) and longitude to the east of St. Jago
+5 degrees 2 minutes we had the wind whiffling between the south by east
+and east by north small gales, frequent calms, very black clouds with
+much rain. In the latitude of 3 degrees 8 minutes north and longitude
+east from St. Jago 5 degrees 8 minutes we had the wind from the
+south-south-east to the north-north-east faint, and often interrupted
+with calms. While we had calms we had the opportunity of trying the
+current we had met with hitherto and found that it set north-east by east
+half a knot, which is 12 mile in 24 hours: so that here it ran at the
+rate of half a mile an hour, and had been much stronger before. The rains
+held us by intervals till the latitude of 1 degree 0 minutes north with
+small gales of wind between south-south-east and south-east by east and
+sometimes calm: afterwards we had the wind between the south and
+south-south-east till we crossed the Line, small winds, calms, and pretty
+fair weather. We saw but few fish beside porpoises; but of them a great
+many and struck one of them.
+
+It was the 10th of March, about the time of the equinox, when we crossed
+the equator, having had all along from the latitude of 4 degrees 40
+minutes north, where the true tradewind left us, a great swell out of the
+south-east and but small uncertain gales, mostly southerly, so that we
+crept to the southward but slowly. I kept up against these as well as I
+could to the southward, and when we had now and then a flurry of wind at
+east I still went away due south, purposely to get to the southward as
+fast as I could; for while near the Line I expected to have but uncertain
+winds, frequent calms, rains, tornados, etc. which would not only retard
+my course but endanger sickness also among my men: especially those who
+were ill provided with clothes, or were too lazy to shift themselves when
+they were drenched with the rains. The heat of the weather made them
+careless of doing this; but taking a dram of brandy which I gave them
+when wet, with a charge to shift themselves, they would however lie down
+in their hammocks with their wet clothes; so that when they turned out
+they caused an ill smell wherever they came, and their hammocks would
+stink sufficiently that I think the remedying of this is worth the care
+of commanders that cross the Line; especially when they are, it may be, a
+month or more before they get out of the rains, at some times of year, as
+in June, July or August.
+
+HE STANDS AWAY FOR THE BAY OF ALL-SAINTS IN BRAZIL; AND WHY.
+
+What I have here said about currents, winds, calms, etc. in this passage
+is chiefly for the farther illustration of what I have heretofore
+observed in general about these matters, and especially as to crossing
+the Line, in my Discourse of the Winds, etc. in the Torrid Zone: which
+observations I have had very much confirmed to me in the course of this
+voyage; and I shall particularise in several of the chief of them as they
+come in my way. And indeed I think I may say this of the main of the
+observations in that treatise that the clear satisfaction I had about
+them and how much I might rely upon them was a great ease to my mind
+during this vexatious voyage; wherein the ignorance, and obstinacy
+withal, of some under me, occasioned me a great deal of trouble: though
+they found all along, and were often forced to acknowledge it, that I was
+seldom out in my conjectures when I told them usually beforehand what
+winds, etc. we should meet with at such or such particular places we
+should come at.
+
+Pernambuco was the port that I designed for at my first setting out from
+St. Jago; it being a place most proper for my purpose, by reason of its
+situation, lying near the extremity of Cape St. Augustine, the
+easternmost promontory of Brazil; by which means it not only enjoys the
+greater benefit of the seabreezes, and is consequently more healthy than
+other places to the southward, but is withal less subject to the
+southerly coasting tradewinds that blow half the year on this shore;
+which were now drawing on, and might be troublesome to me: so that I
+might both hope to reach soonest Pernambuco as most directly and nearest
+in my run; and might thence also more easily get away to the southward
+than from Bahia de todos los Santos or Rio de Janeiro.
+
+But notwithstanding these advantages I proposed to myself in going to
+Pernambuco I was soon put by that design through the refractoriness of
+some under me, and the discontents and backwardness of some of my men.
+For the calms and shiftings of winds which I met with, as I was to
+expect, in crossing the Line, made them who were unacquainted with these
+matters almost heartless as to the pursuit of the voyage, as thinking we
+should never be able to weather Cape St. Augustine: and though I told
+them that by that time we should get to about three degrees south of the
+Line we should again have a true brisk general tradewind from the
+north-east, that would carry us to what part of Brazil we pleased, yet
+they would not believe it till they found it so. This, with some other
+unforeseen accidents, not necessary to be mentioned in this place,
+meeting with the aversion of my men to a long unknown voyage, made me
+justly apprehensive of their revolting, and was a great trouble and
+hindrance to me. So that I was obliged partly to alter my measures, and
+met with many difficulties, the particulars of which I shall not trouble
+the reader with: but I mention thus much of it in general for my own
+necessary vindication, in my taking such measures sometimes for
+prosecuting the voyage as the state of my ship's crew, rather than my own
+judgment and experience, determined me to. The disorders of my ship made
+me think at present that Pernambuco would not be so fit a place for me;
+being told that ships ride there 2 or 3 leagues from the town, under the
+command of no forts; so that whenever I should have been ashore it might
+have been easy for my discontented crew to have cut or slipped their
+cables and have gone away from me: many of them discovering already an
+intention to return to England, and some of them declaring openly that
+they would go no further onwards than Brazil. I altered my course
+therefore, and stood away for Bahia de todos los Santos, or the Bay of
+All Saints, where I hoped to have the governor's help, if need should
+require, for securing my ship from any such mutinous attempt; being
+forced to keep myself all the way upon my guard, and to lie with my
+officers, such as I could trust, and with small arms upon the
+quarter-deck; it scarce being safe for me to lie in my cabin by reason of
+the discontents among my men.
+
+HIS ARRIVAL ON THAT COAST AND IN THE BAY.
+
+On the 23rd of March we saw the land of Brazil; having had thither, from
+the time when we came into the true tradewind again after crossing the
+Line, very fair weather and brisk gales, mostly at east-north-east. The
+land we saw was about 20 leagues to the north of Bahia; so I coasted
+alongshore to the southward. This coast is rather low than high, with
+sandy bays all along by the sea.
+
+OF THE SEVERAL FORTS, THE ROAD, SITUATION, TOWN, AND BUILDINGS OF BAHIA.
+
+A little within land are many very white spots of sand appearing like
+snow; and the coast looks very pleasant, being chequered with woods and
+savannahs. The trees in general are not tall; but they are green and
+flourishing. There are many small houses by the seaside, whose
+inhabitants are chiefly fishermen. They come off to sea on bark logs,
+made of several logs fastened side to side, that have one or two masts
+with sails to them. There are two men in each bark log, one at either
+end, having small low benches, raised a little above the logs, to sit and
+fish on, and two baskets hanging up at the mast or masts; one to put
+their provisions in, the other for their fish. Many of these were
+a-fishing now, and 2 of them came aboard, of whom I bought some fish. In
+the afternoon we sailed by one very remarkable piece of land where, on a
+small pleasant hill, there was a church dedicated to the Virgin Mary. See
+a sight of some parts of this coast and of the hill the church stands on.
+
+I coasted along till the evening and then brought to, and lay by till the
+next morning. About 2 hours after we were brought to, there came a sail
+out of the offing (from seaward) and lay by about a mile to windward of
+us and so lay all night. In the morning upon speaking with her she proved
+to be a Portuguese ship bound to Bahia; therefore I sent my boat aboard
+and desired to have one of his mates to pilot me in: he answered that he
+had not a mate capable of it, but that he would sail in before me, and
+show me the way; and that if he went into the harbour in the night he
+would hang out a light for me. He said we had not far in, and might reach
+it before night with a tolerable gale; but that with so small an one as
+now we had we could not do it: so we jogged on till night and then he
+accordingly hung out his light, which we steered after, sounding as we
+went in. I kept all my men on deck and had an anchor ready to let go on
+occasion. We had the tide of ebb against us, so that we went in but
+slowly; and it was about the middle of the night when we anchored.
+Immediately the Portuguese master came aboard to see me, to whom I
+returned thanks for his civilities; and indeed I found much respect, not
+only from this gentleman but from all of that nation both here and in
+other places, who were ready to serve me on all occasions. The place that
+we anchored in was about two miles from the harbour where the ships
+generally ride; but the fear I had lest my people should run away with
+the ship made me hasten to get a licence from the governor to run up into
+the harbour and ride among their ships, close by one of their forts. So
+on the 25th of March about ten o'clock in the morning, the tide serving,
+I went thither, being piloted by the superintendent there, whose business
+it is to carry up all the King of Portugal's ships that come hither, and
+to see them well moored. He brought us to an anchor right against the
+town, at the outer part of the harbour, which was then full of ships,
+within 150 yards of a small fort that stands on a rock half a mile from
+the shore. See a prospect of the harbour and the town as it appeared to
+us while we lay at anchor.
+
+Bahia de todos los Santos lies in latitude 13 degrees south. It is the
+most considerable town in Brazil, whether in respect of the beauty of its
+buildings, its bulk, or its trade and revenue. It has the convenience of
+a good harbour that is capable of receiving ships of the greatest burden:
+the entrance of which is guarded with a strong fort standing without the
+harbour, called St. Antonio: a sight of which I have given as it appeared
+to us the afternoon before we came in; and its lights (which they hang
+out purposely for ships) we saw the same night. There are other smaller
+forts that command the harbour, one of which stands on a rock in the sea,
+about half a mile from the shore. Close by this fort all ships must pass
+that anchor here, and must ride also within half a mile of it at farthest
+between this and another fort (that stands on a point at the inner part
+of the harbour and is called the Dutch Fort) but must ride nearest to the
+former, all along against the town: where there is good holding ground,
+and less exposed to the southerly winds that blow very hard here. They
+commonly set in about April, but blow hardest in May, June, July and
+August: but the place where the ships ride is exposed to these winds not
+above 3 points of the compass.
+
+Beside these there is another fort fronting the harbour, and standing on
+the hill upon which the town stands. The town itself consists of about
+2000 houses; the major part of which cannot be seen from the harbour; but
+so many as appear in sight with a great mixture of trees between them,
+and all placed on a rising hill, make a very pleasant prospect; as may be
+judged by the draught.
+
+There are in the town 13 churches, chapels, hospitals, convents, beside
+one nunnery, namely the ecclesia major or cathedral, the Jesuits'
+college, which are the chief, and both in sight from the harbour: St.
+Antonio, St. Barbara, both parish churches; the Franciscans' church, and
+the Dominicans'; and 2 convents of Carmelites; a chapel for seamen close
+by the seaside, where boats commonly land and the seamen go immediately
+to prayers; another chapel for poor people, at the farther end of the
+same street, which runs along by the shore; and a third chapel for
+soldiers at the edge of the town remote from the sea; and an hospital in
+the middle of the town. The nunnery stands at the outer edge of the town
+next the fields, wherein by report there are 70 nuns. Here lives in
+archbishop, who has a fine palace in the town; and the governor's palace
+is a fair stone building, and looks handsome to the sea, though but
+indifferently furnished within: both Spaniards and Portuguese in their
+plantations abroad, as I have generally observed, affecting to have large
+houses; but are little curious about furniture, except pictures some of
+them. The houses of the town are 2 or 3 stories high, the walls thick and
+strong, being built with stone, with a covering of pantile; and many of
+them have balconies. The principal streets are large, and all of them
+paved or pitched with small stones. There are also parades in the most
+eminent places of the town, and many gardens, as well within the town as
+in the out parts of it, wherein are fruit trees, herbs, saladings and
+flowers in great variety, but ordered with no great care nor art.
+
+OF ITS GOVERNOR, SHIPS AND MERCHANTS; AND COMMODITIES TO AND FROM EUROPE.
+
+The governor who resides here is called Don John de Lancastrio, being
+descended, as they say, from our English Lancaster family; and he has a
+respect for our nation on that account, calling them his countrymen. I
+waited on him several times, and always found him very courteous and
+civil. Here are about 400 soldiers in garrison. They commonly draw up and
+exercise in a large parade before the governor's house; and many of them
+attend him when he goes abroad. The soldiers are decently clad in brown
+linen, which in these hot countries is far better than woollen; but I
+never saw any clad in linen but only these. Beside the soldiers in pay,
+he can soon have some thousands of men up in arms on occasion. The
+magazine is on the skirts of the town, on a small rising between the
+nunnery and the soldiers' church. It is big enough to hold 2 or 3000
+barrels of powder; but I was told it seldom has more than 100, sometimes
+but 80. There are always a band of soldiers to guard it, and sentinels
+looking out both day and night.
+
+A great many merchants always reside at Bahia; for it is a place of great
+trade: I found here above 30 great ships from Europe, with 2 of the King
+of Portugal's ships of war for their convoy; beside 2 ships that traded
+to Africa only, either to Angola, Gambia, or other places on the coast of
+Guinea; and abundance of small craft that only run to and fro on this
+coast, carrying commodities from one part of Brazil to another.
+
+The merchants that live here are said to be rich, and to have many negro
+slaves in their houses, both of men and women. Themselves are chiefly
+Portuguese, foreigners having but little commerce with them; yet here was
+one Mr. Cock, an English merchant, a very civil gentleman and of good
+repute. He had a patent to be our English consul, but did not care to
+take upon him any public character because English ships seldom come
+hither, here having been none in 11 or 12 years before this time. Here
+was also a Dane, and a French merchant or two; but all have their effects
+transported to and from Europe in Portuguese ships, none of any other
+nation being admitted to trade hither. There is a custom-house by the
+seaside, where all goods imported or exported are entered. And to prevent
+abuses there are 5 or 6 boats that take their turns to row about the
+harbour, searching any boats they suspect to be running of goods.
+
+The chief commodities that the European ships bring hither are linen
+cloths, both coarse and fine; some woollens, also as bays, serges,
+perpetuanas, etc. Hats, stockings, both of silk and thread,
+biscuit-bread, wheat flour, wine (chiefly port) oil olive, butter,
+cheese, etc. and salt-beef and pork would there also be good commodities.
+They bring hither also iron, and all sorts of iron tools; pewter vessels
+of all sorts, as dishes, plates, spoons, etc. looking-glasses, beads, and
+other toys; and the ships that touch at St. Jago bring thence, as I said,
+cotton cloth, which is afterwards sent to Angola.
+
+The European ships carry from hence sugar, tobacco, either in roll or
+snuff, never in leaf, that I know of: these are the staple commodities.
+Besides which, here are dye-woods, as fustick, etc. with woods for other
+uses, as speckled wood, Brazil, etc. They also carry home raw hides,
+tallow, train-oil of whales, etc. Here are also kept tame monkeys,
+parrots, parakeets, etc, which the seamen carry home.
+
+CLAYING OF SUGAR.
+
+The sugar of this country is much better than that which we bring home
+from our plantations: for all the sugar that is made here is clayed,
+which makes it whiter and finer than our muscovada, as we call our
+unrefined sugar. Our planters seldom refine any with clay, unless
+sometimes a little to send home as presents for their friends in England.
+Their way of doing it is by taking some of the whitest clay and mixing it
+with water, till it is like cream. With this they fill up the pans of
+sugar that are sunk 2 or 3 inches below the brim by the draining of the
+molasses out of it: first scraping off the thin hard crust of the sugar
+that lies at the top, and would hinder the water of the clay from soaking
+through the sugar of the pan. The refining is made by this percolation.
+For 10 to 12 days time that the clayish liquor lies soaking down the pan
+the white water whitens the sugar as it passes through it; and the gross
+body of the clay itself grows hard on the top, and may be taken off at
+pleasure; when scraping off with a knife the very upper-part of the sugar
+which will be a little sullied, that which is underneath will be white
+almost to the bottom: and such as is called Brazil sugar is thus
+whitened. When I was here this sugar was sold for about 50 shillings per
+100 pounds. And the bottoms of the pots, which is very coarse sugar, for
+about 20 shillings per 100 pounds, both sorts being then scarce; for here
+was not enough to lade the ships, and therefore some of them were to lie
+here till the next season.
+
+THE SEASON FOR THE EUROPEAN SHIPS, AND COIR CABLES: OF THEIR GUINEA TRADE
+AND OF THE COASTING TRADE, AND WHALE KILLING.
+
+The European ships commonly arrive here in February or March, and they
+have generally quick passages; finding at that time of the year brisk
+gales to bring them to the Line, little trouble, then, in crossing it,
+and brisk east-north-east winds afterwards to bring them hither. They
+commonly return from hence about the latter end of May, or in June. It
+was said when I was here that the ships would sail hence the 20th day of
+May; and therefore they were all very busy, some in taking in their
+goods, others in careening and making themselves ready. The ships that
+come hither usually careen at their first coming; here being a hulk
+belonging to the king for that purpose. This hulk is under the charge of
+the superintendent I spoke of, who has a certain sum of money for every
+ship that careens by her. He also provides firing and other necessaries
+for that purpose: and the ships do commonly hire of the merchants here
+each 2 cables to moor by all the time they lie here, and so save their
+own hempen cables; for these are made of a sort of hair that grows on a
+certain kind of trees, hanging down from the top of their bodies, and is
+very like the black coir in the East Indies, if not the same. These
+cables are strong and lasting: and so much for the European ships.
+
+The ships that use the Guinea trade are small vessels in comparison of
+the former. They carry out from hence rum, sugar, the cotton cloths of
+St. Jago, beads, etc. and bring in return gold, ivory, and slaves; making
+very good returns.
+
+The small craft that belong to this town are chiefly employed in carrying
+European goods from Bahia, the centre of the Brazilian trade, to the
+other places on this coast; bringing back hither sugar, tobacco, etc.
+They are sailed chiefly with negro slaves; and about Christmas these are
+mostly employed in whale killing: for about that time of the year a sort
+of whales, as they call them, are very thick on this coast. They come in
+also into the harbours and inland lakes where the seamen go out and kill
+them. The fat of them is boiled to oil; the lean is eaten by the slaves
+and poor people: and I was told by one that had frequently eaten of it
+that the flesh was very sweet and wholesome. These are said to be but
+small whales; yet here are so many, and so easily killed, that they get a
+great deal of money by it. Those that strike them buy their licence for
+it of the king: and I was informed that he receives 30,000 dollars per
+annum for this fishery. All the small vessels that use this coasting
+traffic are built here; and so are some men of war also for the king's
+service. There was one a-building when I was here, a ship of 40 or 50
+guns: and the timber of this country is very good and proper for this
+purpose. I was told it was very strong, and more durable than any we have
+in Europe; and they have enough of it. As for their ships that use the
+European trade some of them that I saw there were English built, taken
+from us by the French, during the late war, and sold by them to the
+Portuguese.
+
+OF THE INHABITANTS OF BAHIA; THEIR CARRYING IN HAMMOCKS: THEIR
+ARTIFICERS, CRANE FOR GOODS, AND NEGRO SLAVES.
+
+Besides merchants and others that trade by sea from this port here are
+other pretty wealthy men, and several artificers and tradesmen of most
+sorts, who by labour and industry maintain themselves very well;
+especially such as can arrive at the purchase of a negro slave or two.
+And indeed, excepting people of the lowest degree of all, here are scarce
+any but what keep slaves in their houses. The richer sort, besides the
+slaves of both sexes whom they keep for servile uses in their houses,
+have men slaves who wait on them abroad, for state; either running by
+their horse-sides when they ride out, or to carry them to and fro on
+their shoulders in the town when they make short visits near home. Every
+gentleman or merchant is provided with things necessary for this sort of
+carriage. The main thing is a pretty large cotton hammock of the West
+India fashion, but mostly died blue, with large fringes of the same,
+hanging down on each side. This is carried on the negroes' shoulders by
+the help of a bamboo about 12 or 14 foot long, to which the hammock is
+hung; and a covering comes over the pole, hanging down on each side like
+a curtain: so that the person so carried cannot be seen unless he
+pleases; but may either lie down, having pillows for his head; or may sit
+up by being a little supported with these pillows, and by letting both
+his legs hang out over one side of the hammock. When he hath a mind to be
+seen he puts by his curtain, and salutes everyone of his acquaintance
+whom he meets in the streets; for they take a piece of pride in greeting
+one another from their hammocks, and will hold long conferences thus in
+the street: but then their 2 slaves who carry the hammock have each a
+strong well made staff with a fine iron fork at the upper end, and a
+sharp iron below, like the rest for a musket, which they stick fast in
+the ground and let the pole or bamboo of the hammock rest upon them till
+their master's business or the complement is over. There is scarce a man
+of any fashion, especially a woman, will pass the streets but so carried
+in a hammock. The chief mechanic traders here are smiths, hatters,
+shoemakers, tanners, sawyers, carpenters, coopers, etc. Here are also
+tailors, butchers, etc., which last kill the bullocks very dexterously,
+sticking them at one blow with a sharp-pointed knife in the nape of the
+neck, having first drawn them close to a rail; but they dress them very
+slovenly. It being Lent when I came hither there was no buying any flesh
+till Easter-eve, when a great number of bullocks were killed at once in
+the slaughterhouses within the town, men, women and children flocking
+thither with great joy to buy, and a multitude of dogs, almost starved,
+following them; for whom the meat seemed fittest, it was so lean. All
+these tradesmen buy negroes, and train them up to their several
+employments, which is a great help to them; and they having so frequent
+trade to Angola, and other parts of Guinea, they have a constant supply
+of blacks both for their plantations and town. These slaves are very
+useful in this place for carriage, as porters; for as here is a great
+trade by sea and the landing-place is at the foot of a hill, too steep
+for drawing with carts, so there is great need of slaves to carry goods
+up into the town, especially for the inferior sort; but the merchants
+have also the convenience of a great crane that goes with ropes or
+pulleys, one end of which goes up while the other goes down. The house in
+which this crane is stands on the brow of the hill towards the sea,
+hanging over the precipice; and there are planks set shelving against the
+bank from thence to the bottom, against which the goods lean or slide as
+they are hoisted up or let down. The negro slaves in this town are so
+numerous that they make up the greatest part or bulk of the inhabitants:
+every house, as I said, having some, both men and women, of them. Many of
+the Portuguese, who are bachelors, keep of these black women for misses,
+though they know the danger they are in of being poisoned by them, if
+ever they give them any occasion of jealousy. A gentleman of my
+acquaintance, who had been familiar with his cookmaid, lay under some
+apprehensions from her when I was there. These slaves also of either sex
+will easily be engaged to do any sort of mischief; even to murder, if
+they are hired to do it, especially in the night; for which reason I kept
+my men on board as much as I could; for one of the French king's ships
+being here had several men murdered by them in the night, as I was
+credibly informed.
+
+OF THE COUNTRY ABOUT BAHIA, ITS SOIL AND PRODUCT.
+
+Having given this account of the town of Bahia I shall next say somewhat
+of the country. There is a salt-water lake runs 40 leagues, as I was
+told, up the country, north-west from the sea, leaving the town and Dutch
+fort on the starboard side. The country all around about is for the most
+part a pretty flat even ground, not high, nor yet very low: it is well
+watered with rivers, brooks and springs; neither wants it for good
+harbours, navigable creeks, and good bays for ships to ride in. The soil
+in general is good, naturally producing very large trees of divers sorts,
+and fit for any uses. The savannahs also are loaded with grass, herbs,
+and many sorts of smaller vegetables; and being cultivated, produce
+anything that is proper for those hot countries, as sugarcane, cotton,
+indigo, maize, fruit-trees of several kinds, and eatable roots of all
+sorts. Of the several kinds of trees that are here I shall give an
+account of some, as I had it partly from an inhabitant of Bahia, and
+partly from my knowledge of them otherwise, namely sapiera, vermiatico,
+comesserie, guitteba, serrie, as they were pronounced to me, three sorts
+of mangrove, speckled wood, fustick, cotton-trees of 3 sorts, etc.,
+together with fruit trees of divers sorts that grow wild, beside such as
+are planted.
+
+ITS TIMBER-TREES; THE SAPIERA, VERMIATICO, COMMESSERIE, GUITTEBA, SERRIE,
+AND MANGROVES.
+
+Of timber-trees the sapiera is said to be large and tall; it is very good
+timber, and is made use of in building of houses; so is the vermiatico, a
+tall straight-bodied tree, of which they make plank 2 foot broad; and
+they also make canoes with it. Comesserie and guitteba are chiefly used
+in building ships; these are as much esteemed here as oaks are in
+England, and they say either sort is harder and more durable than oak.
+The serrie is a sort of tree much like elm, very durable in water. Here
+are also all the three sorts of mangrove trees, namely the red, the
+white, and the black, which I have described. The bark of the red
+mangrove is here used for tanning of leather, and they have great
+tan-pits for it. The black mangrove grows larger here than in the West
+Indies, and of it they make good plank. The white mangrove is larger and
+tougher than in the West Indies; of these they make masts and yards for
+barks.
+
+THE BASTARD-COCO, ITS NUTS AND CABLES; AND THE SILK-COTTON-TREES.
+
+There grow here wild or bastard coconut-trees, neither so large nor so
+tall as the common ones in the East or West Indies. They bear nuts as the
+others, but not a quarter so big as the right coconuts. The shell is full
+of kernel, without any hollow place or water in it; and the kernel is
+sweet and wholesome, but very hard both for the teeth and for digestion.
+These nuts are in much esteem for making beads for paternosters, boles of
+tobacco pipes and other toys: and every small shop here has a great many
+of them to sell. At the top of these bastard coco-trees, among the
+branches, there grows a sort of long black thread-like horsehair, but
+much longer, which by the Portuguese is called tresabo. Of this they make
+cables which are very serviceable, strong and lasting; for they will not
+rot as cables made of hemp, though they lie exposed both to wet and heat.
+These are the cables which I said they keep in their harbours here, to
+let to hire to European ships, and resemble the coir cables.
+
+Here are 3 sorts of cotton-trees that bear silk-cotton. One sort is such
+as I have formerly described by the name of the cotton-tree. The other 2
+sorts I never saw anywhere but here. The trees of these latter sorts are
+but small in comparison of the former, which are reckoned the biggest in
+all the West India woods; yet are however of a good bigness and height.
+One of these last sorts is not so full of branches as the other of them;
+neither do they produce their fruit the same time of the year: for one
+sort had its fruit just ripe and was shedding its leaves while the other
+sort was yet green, and its fruit small and growing, having but newly
+done blossoming; the tree being as full of young fruit as an apple-tree
+ordinarily in England. These last yield very large pods, about 6 inches
+long and as big as a man's arm. It is ripe in September and October; then
+the pod opens and the cotton bursts out in a great lump as big as a man's
+head. They gather these pods before they open; otherwise it would fly all
+away. It opens as well after it is gathered; and then they take out the
+cotton and preserve it to fill pillows and bolsters, for which use it is
+very much esteemed: but it is fit for nothing else, being so short that
+it cannot be spun. It is of a tawny colour; and the seeds are black, very
+round, and as big as a white pea. The other sort is ripe in March or
+April. The fruit or pod is like a large apple and very round. The outside
+shell is as thick as the top of one's finger. Within this there is a very
+thin whitish bag or skin which encloses the cotton. When the cotton-apple
+is ripe the outer thick green shell splits itself into 5 equal parts from
+stem to tail and drops off, leaving the cotton hanging upon the stem,
+only pent up in its fine bag. A day or two afterwards the cotton swells
+by the heat of the sun, breaks the bag and bursts out, as big as a man's
+head: and then as the wind blows it is by degrees driven away, a little
+at a time, out of the bag that still hangs upon the stem, and is
+scattered about the fields; the bag soon following the cotton, and the
+stem the bag. Here is also a little of the right West India cotton-shrub:
+but none of the cotton is exported, nor do they make much cloth of it.
+
+THE BRAZILIAN FRUITS, ORANGES, ETC.
+
+This country produces great variety of fine fruits, as very good oranges
+of 3 or 4 sorts (especially one sort of china oranges) limes in
+abundance, pomegranates, pomecitrons, plantains, bananas, right coconuts,
+guavas, coco-plums (called here munsheroos) wild grapes, such as I have
+described, beside such grapes as grow in Europe. Here are also hog-plums,
+custard-apples, soursops, cashews, papaws (called here mamoons) jennipahs
+(called here jennipapahs) manchineel-apples and mangoes. Mangoes are yet
+but rare here: I saw none of them but in the Jesuits' garden, which has a
+great many fine fruits, and some cinnamon-trees. These, both of them,
+were first brought from the East Indies, and they thrive here very well:
+so do pumplemouses, brought also from thence; and both china and seville
+oranges are here very plentiful as well as good.
+
+OF THE SOURSOPS, CASHEWS AND JENNIPAHS.
+
+The soursop (as we call it) is a large fruit as big as a man's head, of a
+long or oval shape, and of a green colour; but one side is yellowish when
+ripe. The outside rind or coat is pretty thick, and very rough, with
+small sharp knobs; the inside is full of spongy pulp, within which also
+are many black seeds or kernels, in shape and bigness like a
+pumpkin-seed. The pulp is very juicy, of a pleasant taste, and wholesome.
+You suck the juice out of the pulp, and so spit it out. The tree or shrub
+that bears this fruit grows about 10 or 12 foot high, with a small short
+body; the branches growing pretty straight up; for I did never see any of
+them spread abroad. The twigs are slender and tough; and so is the stem
+of the fruit. This fruit grows also both in the East and West Indies.
+
+The cashew is a fruit as big as a pippin, pretty long, and bigger near
+the stem than at the other end, growing tapering. The rind is smooth and
+thin, of a red and yellow colour. The seed of this fruit grows at the end
+of it; it is of an olive colour shaped like a bean, and about the same
+bigness, but not altogether so flat. The tree is as big as an apple-tree,
+with branches not thick, yet spreading off. The boughs are gross, the
+leaves broad and round, and in substance pretty thick. This fruit is soft
+and spongy when ripe, and so full of juice that in biting it the juice
+will run out on both sides of one's mouth. It is very pleasant, and
+gratefully rough on the tongue; and is accounted a very wholesome fruit.
+This grows both in the East and West Indies, where I have seen and eaten
+of it.
+
+The jennipah or jennipapah is a sort of fruit of the calabash or gourd
+kind. It is about the bigness of a duck-egg, and somewhat of an oval
+shape; and is of a grey colour. The shell is not altogether so thick nor
+hard as a calabash: it is full of whitish pulp mixed with small flat
+seeds; and both pulp and seeds must be taken into the mouth, where
+sucking out the pulp you spit out seeds. It is of a sharp and pleasing
+taste, and is very innocent. The tree that bears it is much like an ash,
+straight-bodied, and of a good height; clean from limbs till near the
+top, where there branches forth a small head. The rind is of a pale grey,
+and so is the fruit. We used of this tree to make helves or handles for
+axes (for which it is very proper) in the Bay of Campeachy; where I have
+seen of them, and nowhere else but here.
+
+OF THEIR PECULIAR FRUITS, ARISAHS, MERICASAHS, PETANGOS, PETUMBOS,
+MUNGAROOS, MUCKISHAWS, INGWAS, OTEES, AND MUSTERAN DE OVAS.
+
+Besides these here are many sorts of fruits which I have not met with
+anywhere but here; as arisahs, mericasahs, petangos, etc. Arisahs are an
+excellent fruit, not much bigger than a large cherry; shaped like a
+catherine-pear, being small at the stem, and swelling bigger towards the
+end. They are of a greenish colour, and have small seeds as big as
+mustard seeds; they are somewhat tart, yet pleasant, and very wholesome,
+and may be eaten by sick people.
+
+Mericasahs are an excellent fruit, of which there are 2 sorts; one
+growing on a small tree or shrub, which is counted the best; the other
+growing on a kind of shrub like a vine, which they plant about arbors to
+make a shade, having many broad leaves. The fruit is as big as a small
+orange, round and green. When they are ripe they are soft and fit to eat;
+full of white pulp mixed thick with little black seeds, and there is no
+separating one from the other till they are in your mouth; when you suck
+in the white pulp and spit out the stones. They are tart, pleasant, and
+very wholesome.
+
+Petangos are a small red fruit that grow also on small trees and are as
+big as cherries, but not so globular, having one flat side, and also 5 or
+6 small protuberant ridges. It is a very pleasant tart fruit, and has a
+pretty large flattish stone in the middle.
+
+Petumbos are a yellow fruit (growing on a shrub like a vine) bigger than
+cherries with a pretty large stone. These are sweet, but rough in the
+mouth.
+
+Mungaroos are a fruit as big as cherries, red on one side and white on
+the other side: they are said to be full of small seeds, which are
+commonly swallowed in eating them.
+
+Muckishaws are said to be a fruit as big as crab-apples, growing on large
+trees. They have also small seeds in the middle and are well tasted.
+
+Ingwas are a fruit like the locust-fruit, 4 inches long and one broad.
+They grow on high trees.
+
+Otee is a fruit as big as a large coconut. It hath a husk on the outside,
+and a large stone within, and is accounted a very fine fruit.
+
+Musteran-de-ovas are a round fruit as big as large hazelnuts, covered
+with thin brittle shells of a blackish colour: they have a small stone in
+the middle, enclosed within a black pulpy substance, which is of a
+pleasant taste. The outside shell is chewed with the fruit, and spit out
+with the stone, when the pulp is sucked from them. The tree that bears
+this fruit is tall, large, and very hard wood. I have not seen any of
+these five last-named fruits, but had them thus described to me by an
+Irish inhabitant of Bahia; though as to this last I am apt to believe I
+may have both seen and eaten of them in Achin in Sumatra.
+
+OF THE PALMBERRIES, PHYSICK-NUTS, MENDIBEES, ETC. AND THEIR ROOTS AND
+HERBS, ETC.
+
+Palm-berries (called here dendees) grow plentifully about Bahia; the
+largest are as big as walnuts; they grow in bunches on the top of the
+body of the tree, among the roots of the branches or leaves, as all
+fruits of the palm kind do. These are the same kind of berries or nuts as
+those they make the palm-oil with on the coast of guinea, where they
+abound: and I was told that they make oil with them here also. They
+sometimes roast and eat them; but when I had one roasted to prove it I
+did not like it.
+
+Physick-nuts, as our seamen called them, are called here pineon; and
+agnus castus is called here carrepat: these both grow here: so do
+mendibees, a fruit like physick-nuts. They scorch them in a pan over the
+fire before they eat them.
+
+Here are also great plenty of cabbage-trees, and other fruits, which I
+did not get information about and which I had not the opportunity of
+seeing; because this was not the season, it being our spring, and
+consequently their autumn, when their best fruits were gone, though some
+were left. However I saw abundance of wild berries in the woods and
+fields, but I could not learn their names or nature.
+
+They have withal good plenty of ground fruit, as callavances, pineapples,
+pumpkins, watermelons, musk-melons, cucumbers, and roots; as yams,
+potatoes, cassava, etc. Garden herbs also good store; as cabbages,
+turnips, onions, leeks, and abundance of other salading, and for the pot.
+Drugs of several sorts, namely sassafras, snake-root, etc. Beside the
+woods I mentioned for dyeing and other uses as fustick, speckled-wood,
+etc.
+
+I brought home with me from hence a good number of plants, dried between
+the leaves of books; of some of the choicest of which that are not
+spoiled I may give a specimen at the end of the book.
+
+OF THEIR WILDFOWL, MACAWS, PARROTS, ETC.
+
+Here are said to be great plenty and variety of wildfowl, namely yemmas,
+macaws (which are called here jackoos, and are a larger sort of parrot,
+and scarcer) parrots, parakeets, flamingos, carrion-crows,
+chattering-crows, cockrecoes, bill-birds finely painted, corresoes,
+doves, pigeons, jenetees, clocking-hens, crab-catchers, galdens,
+currecoos, muscovy ducks, common ducks, widgeons, teal, curlews,
+men-of-war birds, boobies, noddies, pelicans, etc.
+
+THE YEMMA, CARRION-CROW AND CHATTERING-CROW, BILL-BIRD, CURRESO,
+TURTLEDOVE AND WILD PIGEONS; THE JENETEE,
+
+The yemma is bigger than a swan, grey-feathered, with a long thick
+sharp-pointed bill.
+
+The carrion-crow and chattering-crows are called here mackeraws, and are
+like those I described in the West Indies. The bill of the
+chattering-crow is black, and the upper bill is round, bending downwards
+like a hawk's bill, rising up in a ridge almost semi-circular, and very
+sharp, both at the ridge or convexity, and at the point or extremity: the
+lower bill is flat and shuts even with it. I was told by a Portuguese
+here that their negro wenches make love potions with these birds. And the
+Portuguese care not to let them have any of these birds, to keep them
+from that superstition: as I found one afternoon when I was in the fields
+with a padre and another, who shot two of them, and hid them, as they
+said, for that reason. They are not good food, but their bills are
+reckoned a good antidote against poison.
+
+The bill-birds are so called by the English from their monstrous bills,
+which are as big as their bodies. I saw none of these birds here, but saw
+several of the breasts flayed off and dried for the beauty of them; the
+feathers were curiously coloured with red, yellow, and orange-colour.
+
+The curresos (called here mackeraws) are such as are in the Bay of
+Campeachy.
+
+Turtledoves are in great plenty here; and two sorts of wild pigeons; the
+one sort blackish, the other a light grey: the blackish or dark grey are
+the bigger, being as large as our wood-quests, or wood-pigeons in
+England. Both sorts are very good meat; and are in such plenty from May
+till September that a man may shoot 8 or 10 dozen in several shots at one
+standing, in a close misty morning, when they come to feed on berries
+that grow in the woods.
+
+The jenetee is a bird as big as a lark with black feathers, and yellow
+legs and feet. It is accounted very wholesome food.
+
+CLOCKING-HEN, CRAB-CATCHER, GALDEN, AND BLACK HERON: THE DUCKS, WIDGEON
+AND TEAL; AND OSTRICHES TO THE SOUTHWARD, AND OF THE DUNGHILL-FOWLS.
+
+Clocking-hens are much like the crab-catchers which I have described, but
+the legs are not altogether so long. They keep always in swampy wet
+places, though their claws are like land-fowls' claws. They make a noise
+or cluck like our brood-hens, or dunghill-hens, when they have chickens,
+and for that reason they are called by the English clocking-hens. There
+are many of them in the Bay of Campeachy (though I omitted to speak of
+them there) and elsewhere in the West Indies. There are both here and
+there four sorts of these long-legged fowls, near akin to each other as
+so many sub-species of the same kind; namely crab-catchers,
+clocking-hens, galdens (which three are in shape and colour like herons
+in England, but less; the galden, the biggest of the three, the
+crab-catcher the smallest) and a fourth sort which are black, but shaped
+like the other, having long legs and short tails; these are about the
+bigness of crab-catchers, and feed as they do.
+
+Currecoos are waterfowls, as big as pretty large chickens, of a bluish
+colour, with short legs and tail; they feed also in swampy ground and are
+very good meat. I have not seen of them elsewhere.
+
+The wild ducks here are said to be of two sorts, the muscovy and the
+common ducks. In the wet season here are abundance of them, but in the
+dry time but few. Widgeon and teal also are said to be in great plenty
+here in the wet season.
+
+To the southward of Bahia there are also ostriches in great plenty,
+though it is said they are not so large as those of Africa: they are
+found chiefly in the southern parts of Brazil, especially among the large
+savannahs near the river of Plate; and from thence further south towards
+the Straits of Magellan.
+
+As for tame fowl at Bahia the chief beside their ducks are
+dunghill-fowls, of which they have two sorts; one sort much of the size
+of our cocks and hens; the other very large: and the feathers of these
+last are a long time coming forth: so that you see them very naked when
+half grown; but when they are full-grown and well feathered they appear
+very large fowls, as indeed they are; neither do they want for price; for
+they are sold at Bahia for half-a-crown or three shillings apiece, just
+as they are brought first to market out of the country, when they are so
+lean as to be scarce fit to eat.
+
+OF THEIR CATTLE, HORSES, ETC.
+
+The land animals here are horses, black cattle, sheep, goats, rabbits,
+hogs, leopards, tigers, foxes, monkeys, peccary (a sort of wild hogs
+called here pica) armadillo, alligators, iguanas (called quittee)
+lizards, serpents, toads, frogs, and a sort of amphibious creatures
+called by the Portuguese cachoras-de-agua, in English water-dogs.
+
+LEOPARDS AND TIGERS.
+
+The leopards and tigers of this country are said to be large and very
+fierce: but here on the coast they are either destroyed or driven back
+towards the heart of the country; and therefore are seldom found but in
+the borders and out-plantations, where they oftentimes do mischief. Here
+are three or four sorts of monkeys, of different sizes and colours. One
+sort is very large; and another sort is very small: these last are ugly
+in shape and feature and have a strong scent of musk.
+
+OF THEIR SERPENTS; THE RATTLESNAKE, SMALL GREEN SNAKE. AMPHISBAENA, SMALL
+BLACK AND SMALL GREY SNAKE; THE GREAT LAND-SNAKE, AND THE GREAT
+WATERSNAKE; AND OF THE WATER-DOG.
+
+They have here also the amphisbaena, or two-headed snake, of a grey
+colour, mixed with blackish stripes, whose bite is reckoned to be
+incurable. It is said to be blind, though it has two small specks in each
+head like eyes: but whether it sees or not I cannot tell. They say it
+lives like a mole, mostly underground; and that when it is found above
+ground it is easily killed, because it moves but slowly: neither is its
+sight (if it hath any) so good as to discern anyone that comes near to
+kill it: as few of these creatures fly at a man or hurt him but when he
+comes in their way. It is about 14 inches long and about the bigness of
+the inner joint of a man's middle finger; being of one and the same
+bigness from one end to the other, with a head at each end (as they said;
+for I cannot vouch it, for one I had was cut short at one end) and both
+alike in shape and bigness; and it is said to move with either head
+foremost, indifferently; whence it is called by the Portuguese
+cobra-de-dos-cabesas, the snake with two heads.
+
+The small black snake is a very venomous creature.
+
+There is also a grey snake, with red and brown spots all over its back.
+It is as big as a man's arm and about 3 foot long, and is said to be
+venomous. I saw one of these.
+
+Here are two sorts of very large snakes or serpents: one of them a
+land-snake, the other a water-snake. The land-snake is of a grey colour,
+and about 18 or 20 foot long: not very venomous, but ravenous. I was
+promised the sight of one of their skins but wanted opportunity.
+
+The water-snake is said to be near 30 foot long. These live wholly in the
+water, either in large rivers or great lakes, and prey upon any creature
+that comes within their reach, be it man or beast. They draw their prey
+to them with their tails: for when they see anything on the banks of the
+river or lake where they lurk they swing about their tails 10 or 12 foot
+over the bank; and whatever stands within their sweep is snatched with
+great violence into the river, and drowned by them. Nay it is reported
+very credibly that if they see only a shade of any animal at all on the
+water, they will flourish their tails to bring in the man or beast whose
+shade they see and are oftentimes too successful in it. Wherefore men
+that have business near any place where these water-monsters are
+suspected to lurk are always provided with a gun, which they often fire,
+and that scares them away or keeps them quiet. They are said to have
+great heads and strong teeth about 6 inches long. I was told by an
+Irishman who lived here that his wife's father was very near being taken
+by one of them, about this time of my first arrival here, when his father
+was with him up in the country: for the beast flourished his tail for
+him, but came not nigh enough by a yard or two; however it scared him
+sufficiently.
+
+The amphibious creatures here which I said are called by the Portuguese
+cachoras-de-agua or water-dogs, are said to be as big as small mastiffs,
+and are all hairy and shaggy from head to tail. They have 4 short legs, a
+pretty long head and short tail; and are of a blackish colour. They live
+in fresh-water ponds and oftentimes come ashore and sun themselves; but
+retire to the water if assaulted. They are eaten and said to be good
+food. Several of these creatures which I have now spoken of I have not
+seen, but informed myself about them while I was here at Bahia, from
+sober and sensible persons among the inhabitants, among whom I met with
+some that could speak English.
+
+OF THEIR SEA-FISH AND TURTLE; AND OF ST. PAUL'S TOWN.
+
+In the sea upon this coast there is great store and diversity of fish,
+namely jew-fish for which there is a great market at Bahia in Lent:
+tarpon, mullet, grouper, snook, garfish (called here goolions) gorasses,
+barramas, coquindas, cavallies, cachoras (or dogfish) conger eels,
+herring (as I was told) the serrew, the olio-de-boy (I write and spell
+them just as they were named to me) whales, etc.
+
+Here is also shellfish (though in less plenty about Bahia than on other
+parts of the coast) namely lobsters, crawfish, shrimps, crabs, oysters of
+the common sort, conches, wilks, cockles, mussels, periwinkles, etc. Here
+are three sorts of sea-turtle, namely hawksbill, loggerhead, and green:
+but none of them are in any esteem, neither Spaniards nor Portuguese
+loving them: nay they have a great antipathy against them, and would much
+rather eat a porpoise, though our English count the green turtle very
+extraordinary food. The reason that is commonly given in the West Indies
+for the Spaniards not caring to eat of them is the fear they have lest,
+being usually foul-bodied and many of them poxed (lying, as they do, so
+promiscuously with their negrines and other she-slaves) they should break
+out loathsomely like lepers; which this sort of food, it is said, does
+much incline men to do, searching the body, and driving out any such
+gross humours: for which cause many of our English valetudinarians have
+gone from Jamaica (though there they have also turtle) to the island
+Cayman, at the laying time, to live wholly upon turtle that then abound
+there; purposely to have their bodies scoured by this food, and their
+distempers driven out; and have been said to have found many of them good
+success in it. But this by the way. The hawksbill-turtle on this coast of
+Brazil is most sought after of any, for its shell; which by report of
+those I have conversed with at Bahia, is the clearest and best clouded
+tortoise-shell in the world. I had some of it shown me which was indeed
+as good as ever I saw. They get a pretty deal of it in some parts on this
+coast; but it is very dear.
+
+Beside this port of Bahia de todos los Santos there are 2 more principal
+ports on Brazil where European ships trade, namely Pernambuco and Rio de
+Janeiro; and I was told that there go as many ships to each of these
+places as to Bahia, and 2 men-of-war to each place for their convoys. Of
+the other ports in this country none is of greater note than that of St.
+Paul's where they gather much gold; but the inhabitants are said to be a
+sort of banditti, or loose people that live under no government: but
+their gold brings them all sorts of commodities that they need, as
+clothes, arms, ammunition, etc. The town is said to be large and strong.
+
+
+CHAPTER 3.
+
+TWO OCEANS AND NEW HOLLAND.
+
+THE AUTHOR'S STAY AND BUSINESS AT BAHIA: OF THE WINDS, AND SEASONS OF THE
+YEAR THERE.
+
+My stay here at Bahia was about a month; during which time the viceroy of
+Goa came hither from thence in a great ship, said to be richly laden with
+all sorts of India goods; but she did not break bulk here, being bound
+home for Lisbon; only the viceroy intended to refresh his men (of whom he
+had lost many, and most of the rest were very sickly, having been 4
+months in their voyage hither) and so to take in water, and depart for
+Europe in company with the other Portuguese ships thither bound; who had
+orders to be ready to sail by the twentieth of May. He desired me to
+carry a letter for him, directed to his successor the new viceroy of Goa;
+which I did, sending it thither afterwards by Captain Hammond, whom I
+found near the Cape of Good Hope. The refreshing my men and taking in
+water was the main also of my business here; beside the having the better
+opportunity to compose the disorders among my crew: which, as I have
+before related, were grown to so great a height that they could not
+without great difficulty be appeased: however, finding opportunity during
+my stay in this place to allay in some measure the ferment that had been
+raised among my men, I now set myself to provide for the carrying on of
+my voyage with more heart than before, and put all hands to work, in
+order to it, as fast as the backwardness of my men would permit; who
+showed continually their unwillingness to proceed farther. Besides, their
+heads were generally filled with strange notions of southerly winds that
+were now setting in (and there had been already some flurries of them)
+which, as they surmised, would hinder any farther attempts of going on to
+the southward so long as they should last.
+
+The winds begin to shift here in April and September, and the seasons of
+the year (the dry and the wet) alter with them. In April the southerly
+winds make their entrance on this coast, bringing in the wet season, with
+violent tornados, thunder and lightning, and much rain. In September the
+other coasting trade at east-north-east comes in and clears the sky,
+bringing fair weather. This, as to the change of wind, is what I have
+observed, but as to the change of weather accompanying it so exactly here
+at Bahia this is a particular exception to what I have experienced in all
+other places of south latitudes that I have been in between the tropics,
+or those I have heard of; for there the dry season sets in, in April, and
+the wet about October or November, sooner or later (as I have said that
+they are, in south latitudes, the reverse of the seasons, or weather, in
+the same months in north latitudes, whereas on this coast of Brazil the
+wet season comes in in April at the same time that it doth in north
+latitudes, and the dry (as I have said here) in September; the rains here
+not lasting so far in the year as in other places; for in September the
+weather is usually so fair that in the latter part of that month they
+begin to cut their sugarcane here, as I was told; for I enquired
+particularly about the seasons: though this, as to the season of cutting
+of cane, which I was now assured to be in September, agrees not very well
+with that I was formerly told, that in Brazil they cut the cane in July.
+And so as to what is said a little lower in the same page, that in
+managing their cane they are not confined to the seasons, this ought to
+have been expressed only of planting them; for they never cut them but in
+the dry season.
+
+But to return to the southerly winds, which came in (as I expected they
+would) while I was here: these daunted my ship's company very much,
+though I had told them they were to look for them: but they being
+ignorant as to what I told them farther, that these were only coasting
+winds, sweeping the shore to about 40 or 50 leagues in breadth from it,
+and imagining that they had blown so all the sea over, between America
+and Africa; and being confirmed in this their opinion by the Portuguese
+pilots of European ships, with whom several of my officers conversed
+much, and who were themselves as ignorant that these were only coasting
+tradewinds (themselves going away before them in their return homewards
+till they cross the Line, and so having no experience of the breadth of
+them) being thus possessed with a conceit that we could not sail from
+hence till September; this made them still the more remiss in their
+duties, and very listless to the getting things in a readiness for our
+departure. However I was the more diligent myself to have the ship
+scrubbed, and to send my water casks ashore to get them trimmed, my beer
+being now out. I went also to the governor to get my water filled; for
+here being but one watering-place (and the water running low, now at the
+end of the dry season) it was always so crowded with the European ships'
+boats, who were preparing to be gone, that my men could seldom come nigh
+it till the governor very kindly sent an officer to clear the
+watering-place for my men, and to stay there till my water-casks were all
+full, whom I satisfied for his pains. Here I also got aboard 9 or 10 ton
+of ballast, and made my boatswain fit the rigging that was amiss: and I
+enquired also of my particular officers, whose business it was, whether
+they wanted any stores, especially pitch and tar; for that here I would
+supply myself before I proceeded any farther; but they said they had
+enough, though it did not afterwards prove so.
+
+I commonly went ashore every day, either upon business, or to recreate
+myself in the fields, which were very pleasant, and the more for a shower
+of rain now and then, that ushers in the wet season. Several sorts of
+good fruits were also still remaining, especially oranges, which were in
+such plenty that I and all my company stocked ourselves for our voyage
+with them, and they did us a great kindness; and we took in also a good
+quantity of rum and sugar: but for fowls, they being here lean and dear,
+I was glad I had stocked myself at St. Jago. But, by the little care my
+officers took for fresh provisions, one might conclude they did not think
+of going much farther. Besides I had like to have been embroiled with the
+clergy here (of the Inquisition, as I suppose) and so my voyage might
+have been hindered. What was said to them of me by some of my company
+that went ashore I know not; but I was assured by a merchant there that
+if they got me into their clutches (and it seems when I was last ashore
+they had narrowly watched me) the governor himself could not release me.
+Besides I might either be murdered in the streets, as he sent me word, or
+poisoned, if I came ashore any more; and therefore he advised me to stay
+aboard. Indeed I had now no further business ashore but to take leave of
+the governor and therefore took his advice.
+
+HIS DEPARTURE FOR NEW HOLLAND.
+
+Our stay here was till the 23rd of April. I would have gone before if I
+could sooner have fitted myself; but was now earnest to be gone, because
+this harbour lies open to the south and south-south-west, which are
+raging winds here, and now was the season for them. We had 2 or 3 touches
+of them; and one pretty severe, and the ships ride there so near each
+other that, if a cable would fail or an anchor start, you are instantly
+aboard of one ship or other: and I was more afraid of being disabled he
+in harbour by these blustering winds than discouraged by them, as my
+people were, from prosecuting the voyage; for at present I even wished
+for a brisk southerly wind, as soon as I should be once well out of the
+harbour, to set me the sooner into the true general tradewind.
+
+The tide of flood being spent, and having a fine land-breeze on the 23rd
+in the morning, I went away from the anchoring place before it was light;
+and then lay by till daylight that we might see the better how to go out
+of the harbour. I had a pilot belonging to Mr. Cock who went out with me,
+to whom I gave 3 dollars; but I found I could as well have gone out
+myself by the soundings I made at coming in. The wind was east by north
+and fair weather. By 10 o'clock I was got past all danger and then sent
+away my pilot.
+
+CAPE SALVADOR.
+
+At 12 Cape Salvador bore north distant 6 leagues, and we had the winds
+between the east by north and south-east a considerable time, so that we
+kept along near the shore, commonly in sight of it. The southerly blasts
+had now left us again; for they come at first in short flurries, and
+shift to other points (for 10 or 12 days sometimes) before they are quite
+set in: and we had uncertain winds, between sea and land-breezes, and the
+coasting trade, which was itself unsettled.
+
+THE WINDS ON THE BRAZILIAN COAST; AND ABROLHO SHOAL; FISH AND BIRDS: THE
+SHEARWATER BIRD, AND COOKING OF SHARKS.
+
+The easterly winds at present made me doubt I should not weather a great
+shoal which lies in latitude between 18 and 19 degrees south, and runs a
+great way into the sea, directly from the land, easterly. Indeed the
+weather was fair (and continued so a good while) so that I might the
+better avoid any danger from it: and if the wind came to the southward I
+knew I could stretch off to sea; so that I jogged on courageously. The
+27th of April we saw a small brigantine under the shore plying to the
+southward. We also saw many men-of-war-birds and boobies, and abundance
+of albicore-fish. Having still fair weather, small gales, and some calms,
+I had the opportunity of trying the current, which I found to set
+sometimes northerly and sometimes southerly: and therefore knew I was
+still within the verge of the tides. Being now in the latitude of the
+Abrolho Shoals, which I expected to meet with, I sounded, and had water
+lessening from 40 to 33 and so to 25 fathom: but then it rose again to
+33, 35, 37, etc., all coral rocks. Whilst we were on this shoal (which we
+crossed towards the further part of it from land, where it lay deep, and
+so was not dangerous) we caught a great many fish with hook and line: and
+by evening amplitude we had 6 degrees 38 minutes east variation. This was
+the 27th of April; we were then in latitude 18 degrees 13 minutes south
+and east longitude from Cape Salvador 31 minutes. On the 29th, being then
+in latitude 18 degrees 39 minutes south, we had small gales from the
+west-north-west to the west-south-west often shifting. The 30th we had
+the winds from west to south-south-east, squalls and rain: and we saw
+some dolphins and other fish about us. We were now out of sight of land
+and had been so 4 or 5 days: but the winds now hanging in the south was
+an apparent sign that we were still too nigh the shore to receive the
+true general east trade; as the easterly winds we had before showed that
+we were too far off the land to have the benefit of the coasting south
+trade: and the faintness of both these winds, and their often shifting
+from the south-south-west to the south-east with squalls, rain and small
+gales, were a confirmation of our being between the verge of the south
+coasting trade and that of the true trade; which is here regularly
+south-east.
+
+The 3rd of May, being in latitude 20 degrees 00 minutes and meridian
+distance west from Cape Salvador 234 miles, the variation was 7 degrees
+00 minutes. We saw no fowl but shearwaters, as our seamen call them,
+being a small black fowl that sweep the water as they fly, and are much
+in the seas that lie without either of the tropics: they are not eaten.
+We caught 3 small sharks, each 6 foot 4 inches long; and they were very
+good food for us. The next day we caught 3 more sharks of the same size,
+and we ate them also, esteeming them as good fish, boiled and pressed,
+and then stewed with vinegar and pepper.
+
+EXCESSIVE NUMBER OF BIRDS ABOUT A DEAD WHALE; OF THE PINTADO BIRD, AND
+THE PETREL, ETC.
+
+We had nothing of remark from the 3rd of May to the 10th, only now and
+then seeing a small whale spouting up the water. We had the wind easterly
+and we ran with it to the southward, running in this time from the
+latitude of 20 degrees 00 minutes to 29 degrees 5 minutes south, and
+having then 7 degrees 3 minutes east longitude from Cape Salvador; the
+variation increasing upon us at present, notwithstanding we went east. We
+had all along a great difference between the morning and evening
+amplitudes; usually a degree or two, and sometimes more. We were now in
+the true trade, and therefore made good way to the southward to get
+without the verge of the general tradewind into a westerly wind's way
+that might carry us towards the Cape of Good Hope. By the 12th of May,
+being in latitude 31 degrees 10 minutes we began to meet with westerly
+winds, which freshened on us, and did not leave us till a little before
+we made the Cape. Sometimes it blew so hard that it put us under a
+fore-course; especially in the night; but in the daytime we had commonly
+our main topsail reefed. We met with nothing of moment; only we passed by
+a dead whale, and saw millions (as I may say) of sea-fowls about the
+carcass (and as far round about it as we could see) some feeding, and the
+rest flying about, or sitting on the water, waiting to take their turns.
+We first discovered the whale by the fowls; for indeed I did never see so
+many fowls at once in my life before, their numbers being inconceivably
+great: they were of divers sorts, in bigness, shape and colour. Some were
+almost as big as geese, of a grey colour, with white breasts, and with
+such bills, wings, and tails. Some were pintado-birds, as big as ducks,
+and speckled black and white. Some were shearwaters; some petrels; and
+there were several sorts of large fowls. We saw of these birds,
+especially pintado-birds, all the sea over from about 200 leagues distant
+from the coast of Brazil to within much the same distance of New Holland.
+The pintado is a southern bird, and of that temperate zone; for I never
+saw of them much to the northward of 30 degrees south. The pintado-bird
+is as big as a duck; but appears, as it flies, about the bigness of a
+tame pigeon, having a short tail, but the wings very long, as most
+sea-fowls have; especially such as these that fly far from the shore, and
+seldom come nigh it; for their resting is sitting afloat upon the water;
+but they lay, I suppose, ashore. There are three sorts of these birds,
+all of the same make and bigness, and are only different in colour. The
+first is black all over: the second sort are grey, with white bellies and
+breasts. The third sort, which is the true pintado, or painted-bird, is
+curiously spotted white and black. Their heads and the tips of their
+wings and tails are black for about an inch; and their wings are also
+edged quite round with such a small black list; only within the black on
+the tip of their wings there is a white spot seeming as they fly (for
+then their spots are best seen) as big as a half-crown. All this is on
+the outside of the tails and wings; and, as there is a white spot in the
+black tip of the wings, so there is in the middle of the wings which is
+white, a black spot; but this, towards the back of the bird, turns
+gradually to a dark grey. The back itself, from the head to the tip of
+the tail, and the edge of the wings next to the back, are all over
+spotted with fine small, round, white and black spots, as big as a silver
+twopence, and as close as they can stick one by another: the belly,
+thighs, sides, and inner part of the wings, are of a light grey. These
+birds, of all these sorts, fly many together, never high, but almost
+sweeping the water. We shot one a while after on the water in a calm, and
+a water-spaniel we had with us brought it in: I have given a picture of
+it, but it was so damaged that the picture doth not show it to advantage;
+and its spots are best seen when the feathers are spread as it flies.
+
+The petrel is a bird not much unlike a swallow, but smaller, and with a
+shorter tail. It is all over black, except a white spot on the rump. They
+fly sweeping like swallows, and very near the water. They are not so
+often seen in fair weather; being foul-weather birds, as our seamen call
+them, and presaging a storm when they come about a ship; who for that
+reason don't love to see them. In a storm they will hover close under the
+ship's stern in the wake of the ship (as it is called) or the smoothness
+which the ship's passing has made on the sea; and there as they fly
+(gently then) they pat the water alternately with their feet as if they
+walked upon it; though still upon the wing. And from hence the seamen
+give them the name of petrels in allusion to St. Peter's walking upon the
+Lake of Gennesareth.
+
+We also saw many bunches of seaweeds in the latitude of 39 32 and, by
+judgment near, the meridian of the island Tristan d'Acunha: and then we
+had about 2 degrees 20 minutes east variation: which was now again
+decreasing as we ran to the eastward, till near the meridian of
+Ascension; where we found little or no variation: but from thence, as we
+ran farther to the east, our variation increased westerly.
+
+OF A BIRD THAT SHOWS THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE TO BE NEAR: OF THE
+SEA-RECKONINGS, AND VARIATIONS: AND A TABLE OF ALL THE VARIATIONS
+OBSERVED IN THIS VOYAGE.
+
+Two days before I made the Cape of Good Hope my variation was 7 degrees
+58 minutes west. I was then in 43 degrees 27 minutes east longitude from
+Cape Salvador, being in latitude 35 degrees 30 minutes, this was the
+first of June. The second of June I saw a large black fowl, with a
+whitish flat bill, fly by us; and took great notice of it, because in the
+East India Waggoner, pilot-book, there is mention made of large fowls, as
+big as ravens, with white flat bills and black feathers, that fly not
+above 30 leagues from the Cape, and are looked on as a sign of one's
+being near it. My reckoning made me then think myself above 90 leagues
+from the Cape, according to the longitude which the Cape hath in the
+common sea-charts: so that I was in some doubt whether these were the
+right fowls spoken of in the Waggoner; or whether those fowls might not
+fly farther off shore than is there mentioned; or whether, as it proved,
+I might not be nearer the Cape than I reckoned myself to be; for I found,
+soon after, that I was not then above 25 or 30 leagues at most from the
+Cape. Whether the fault were in the charts laying down the Cape too much
+to the east from Brazil, or were rather in our reckoning, I could not
+tell: but our reckonings are liable to such uncertainties from steerage,
+log, currents, half-minute-glasses; and sometimes want of care, as in so
+long a run cause often a difference of many leagues in the whole account.
+
+Most of my men that kept journals imputed it to the half-minute-glasses:
+and indeed we had not a good glass in the ship beside the half-watch or
+two-hour-glasses. As for our half-minute-glasses we tried them all at
+several times, and we found those that we had used from Brazil as much
+too short, as others we had used before were too long; which might well
+make great errors in those several reckonings. A ship ought therefore to
+have its glasses very exact; and besides, an extraordinary care ought to
+be used in heaving the log, for fear of giving too much stray line in a
+moderate gale; and also to stop quickly in a brisk gale, for when a ship
+runs 8, 9 or 10 knots, half a knot or a knot is soon run out, and not
+heeded: but to prevent danger, when a man thinks himself near land, the
+best way is to look out betimes, and lie by in the night, for a commander
+may err easily himself; beside the errors of those under him, though
+never so carefully eyed.
+
+Another thing that stumbled me here was the variation, which, at this
+time, by the last amplitude I had found to be but 7 degrees 58 minutes
+west, whereas the variation at the Cape (from which I found myself not 30
+leagues distant) was then computed, and truly, about 11 degrees or more:
+and yet a while after this, when I was got 10 leagues to the eastward of
+the Cape, I found the variation but 10 degrees 40 minutes west, whereas
+it should have been rather more than at the Cape. These things, I
+confess, did puzzle me: neither was I fully satisfied as to the exactness
+of the taking the variation at sea: for in a great sea, which we often
+meet with, the compass will traverse with the motion of the ship; besides
+the ship may and will deviate somewhat in steering, even by the best
+helmsmen: and then when you come to take an azimuth there is often some
+difference between him that looks at the compass and the man that takes
+the altitude height of the sun; and a small error in each, if the error
+of both should be one way, will make it wide of any great exactness. But
+what was most shocking to me, I found that the variation did not always
+increase or decrease in proportion to the degrees of longitude east or
+west; as I had a notion they might do to a certain number of degrees of
+variation east or west, at such or such particular meridians. But,
+finding in this voyage that the difference of variation did not bear a
+regular proportion to the difference of longitude, I was much pleased to
+see it thus observed in a scheme shown me after my return home, wherein
+are represented the several variations in the Atlantic Sea, on both sides
+of the equator, and there the line of no variation in that sea is not a
+meridian line, but goes very oblique, as do those also which show the
+increase of variation on each side of it. In that chart there is so large
+an advance made as well towards the accounting for those seemingly
+irregular increases and decreases of variation towards the south-east
+coast of America as towards the fixing a general scheme or system of the
+variation everywhere, which would be of such great use in navigation,
+that I cannot but hope that the ingenious author, Captain Halley, who to
+his profound skill in all theories of these kinds, hath added and is
+adding continually personal experiments, will e'er long oblige the world
+with a fuller discovery of the course of the variation, which hath
+hitherto been a secret. For my part I profess myself unqualified for
+offering at anything of a general scheme; but since matter of fact, and
+whatever increases the history of the variation, may be of use towards
+the settling or confirming the theory of it, I shall here once for all
+insert a table of all the variations I observed beyond the equator in
+this voyage, both in going out and returning back; and what errors there
+may be in it I shall leave to be corrected by the observations of others.
+
+(A TABLE OF VARIATIONS.)
+
+OCCURRENCES NEAR THE CAPE; AND THE AUTHOR'S PASSING BY IT.
+
+But to return from this digression: having fair weather and the winds
+hanging southerly I jogged on to the eastward to make the Cape. On the
+third of June we saw a sail to leeward of us, showing English colours. I
+bore away to speak with her, and found her to be the Antelope of London,
+commanded by Captain Hammond, and bound for the Bay of Bengal in the
+service of the New-East-India Company. There were many passengers aboard,
+going to settle there under Sir Edward Littleton, who was going chief
+thither: I went aboard and was known by Sir Edward and Mr. Hedges, and
+kindly received and treated by them and the commander; who had been
+afraid of us before, though I had sent one of my officers aboard. They
+had been in at the Cape, and came from thence the day before, having
+stocked themselves with refreshments. They told me that they were by
+reckoning 60 miles to the west of the Cape. While I was aboard them a
+fine small westerly wind sprang up; therefore I shortened my stay with
+them because I did not design to go in to the Cape. When I took leave I
+was presented with half a mutton, 12 cabbages, 12 pumpkins, 6 pound of
+butter, 6 couple of stock-fish, and a quantity of parsnips; sending them
+some oatmeal which they wanted.
+
+From my first setting out from England I did not design to touch at the
+Cape; and that was one reason why I touched at Brazil, that there I might
+refresh my men and prepare them for a long run to New Holland. We had not
+yet seen the land, but about 2 in the afternoon we saw the Cape land
+bearing east at about 16 leagues distance: and, Captain Hammond being
+also bound to double the Cape, we jogged on together this afternoon and
+the next day, and had several fair sights of it; which may be seen.
+
+OF THE WESTERLY WINDS BEYOND IT: A STORM, AND ITS PRESAGES.
+
+To proceed: having still a westerly wind I jogged on in company with the
+Antelope till Sunday June the 4th, at 4 in the afternoon, when we parted;
+they steering away for the East Indies and I keeping an east-south-east
+course, the better to make my way for New Holland: for though New Holland
+lies north-easterly from the Cape yet all ships bound towards the coast,
+or the Straits of Sunda, ought to keep for a while in the same parallel,
+or in a latitude between 35 and 40, at least a little to the south of the
+east, that they may continue in a variable winds way; and not venture too
+soon to stand so far to the north as to be within the verge of the
+tradewind, which will put them by their easterly course. The wind
+increased upon us; but we had yet sight of the Antelope, and of the land
+too, till Tuesday the 6th June: and then we saw also by us an innumerable
+company of fowls of divers sorts; so that we looked about to see if there
+were not another dead whale, but saw none.
+
+The night before, the sun set in a black cloud, which appeared just like
+land, and the clouds above it were gilded of a dark red colour. And on
+the Tuesday, as the sun drew near the horizon, the clouds were gilded
+very prettily to the eye, though at the same time my mind dreaded the
+consequences of it. When the sun was now not above 2 degrees high it
+entered into a dark smoky-coloured cloud that lay parallel with the
+horizon, from whence presently seemed to issue many dusky blackish beams.
+The sky was at this time covered with small hard clouds (as we call such
+a lie scattering about, not likely to rain) very thick one by another;
+and such of them as lay next to the bank of clouds at the horizon were of
+a pure gold colour to 3 or 4 degrees high above the bank. From these to
+about 10 degrees high they were redder and very bright; above them they
+were of a darker colour still, to about 60 or 70 degrees high, where the
+clouds began to be of their common colour. I took the more particular
+notice of all this because I have generally observed such coloured clouds
+to appear before an approaching storm: and, this being winter here and
+the time for bad weather, I expected and provided for a violent blast of
+wind by reefing our topsails, and giving a strict charge to my officers
+to hand them or take them in if the wind should grow stronger. The wind
+was now at west-north-west a very brisk gale. About 12 o'clock at night
+we had a pale whitish glare in the north-west which was another sign, and
+intimated the storm be near at hand; and, the wind increasing upon it, we
+presently handed our topsails, furled the mainsail, and went away only
+with our foresail. Before 2 in the morning it came on very fierce, and we
+kept right before wind and sea, the wind still increasing: but the ship
+was very governable, and steered incomparably well. At 8 in the morning
+we settled our foreyard, lowering it 4 or 5 foot, and we ran very
+swiftly; especially when the squalls of rain or hail from a black cloud
+came overhead, for then it blew excessive hard. These, though they did
+not last long, yet came very thick and fast one after another. The sea
+also ran very high; but we running so violently before wind and sea we
+shipped little or no water; though a little washed into our upper deck
+ports; and with it a scuttle or cuttlefish was cast up on the carriage of
+a gun.
+
+The wind blew extraordinary hard all Wednesday the 7th of June but abated
+of its fierceness before night: yet it continued a brisk gale till about
+the 16th, and still a moderate one till the 19th day; by which time we
+had run about 600 leagues: for the most part of which time the wind was
+in some point of the west, namely from the west-north-west to the south
+by west. It blew hardest when at west or between the west and south-west,
+but after it veered more southerly the foul weather broke up: this I
+observed at other times also in these seas, that when the storms at west
+veered to the southward they grew less; and that when the wind came to
+the east of the south we had still smaller gales, calms, and fair
+weather. As for the westerly winds on that side the Cape, we like them
+never the worse for being violent, for they drive us the faster to the
+eastward; and are therefore the only winds coveted by those who sail
+towards such parts of the East Indies as lie south of the equator; as
+Timor, Java, and Sumatra; and by the ships bound for China, or any other
+that are to pass through the Straits of Sunda. Those ships having once
+passed the Cape keep commonly pretty far southerly, on purpose to meet
+with these west winds, which in the winter season of these climates they
+soon meet with; for then the winds are generally westerly at the Cape,
+and especially to the southward of it: but in their summer months they
+get to the southward of 40 degrees usually ere they meet with the
+westerly winds. I was not at this time in a higher latitude than 36
+degrees 40 minutes, and oftentimes was more northerly, altering my
+latitude often as winds and weather required; for in such long runs it is
+best to shape one's course according to the winds. And if in steering to
+the east we should be obliged to bear a little to the north or south of
+it it is no great matter; for it is but sailing 2 or 3 points from the
+wind when it is either northerly or southerly; and this not only eases
+the ship from straining but shortens the way more than if a ship was kept
+close on a wind, as some men are fond of doing.
+
+THE AUTHOR'S COURSE TO NEW HOLLAND; AND SIGNS OF APPROACHING IT.
+
+The 19th of June we were in latitude 34 degrees 17 minutes south and
+longitude from the Cape 39 degrees 24 minutes east, and had small gales
+and calms. The winds were at north-east by east and continued in some
+part of the east till the 27th day. When it having been some time at
+north-north-east it came about at north and then to the west of the
+north, and continued in the west-board (between the north-north-west and
+south-south-west) till the 4th of July; in which time we ran 782 miles;
+then the winds came about again to the east, we reckoning ourselves to be
+in a meridian 1100 leagues east of the Cape; and, having fair weather,
+sounded, but had no ground.
+
+We met with little of remark in this voyage, besides being accompanied
+with fowls all the way, especially pintado-birds, and seeing now and then
+a whale: but as we drew nigher the coast of New Holland we saw frequently
+3 or 4 whales together. When we were about 90 leagues from the land we
+began to see seaweeds, all of one sort; and as we drew nigher the shore
+we saw them more frequently. At about 30 leagues distance we began to see
+some scuttle-bones floating on the water; and drawing still nigher the
+land we saw greater quantities of them.
+
+July 25, being in latitude 26 degrees 14 minutes south and longitude east
+from the Cape of Good Hope 85 degrees 52 minutes, we saw a large garfish
+leap 4 times by us, which seemed to be as big as a porpoise. It was now
+very fair weather, and the sea was full of a sort of very small grass or
+moss, which as it floated in the water seemed to have been some spawn of
+fish; and there was among it some small fry. The next day the sea was
+full of small round things like pearl, some as big as white peas; they
+were very clear and transparent, and upon crushing any of them a drop of
+water would come forth: the skin that contained the water was so thin
+that it was but just discernable. Some weeds swam by us so that we did
+not doubt but we should quickly see land. On the 27th also some weeds
+swam by us, and the birds that had flown along with us all the way almost
+from Brazil now left us, except only 2 or 3 shearwaters. On the 28th we
+saw many weeds swim by us and some whales, blowing. On the 29th we had
+dark cloudy weather with much thunder, lightning, and violent rains in
+the morning; but in the evening it grew fair. We saw this day a
+scuttle-bone swim by us, and some of our young men a seal, as it should
+seem by their description of its head. I saw also some bonetas, and some
+skipjacks, a fish about 8 inches long, broad, and sizable, not much
+unlike a roach; which our seamen call so from their leaping about.
+
+ANOTHER ABROLHO SHOAL AND STORM, AND THE AUTHOR'S ARRIVAL ON PART OF NEW
+HOLLAND.
+
+The 30th of July, being still nearer the land, we saw abundance of
+scuttle-bones and seaweed, more tokens that we were not far from it; and
+saw also a sort of fowls, the like of which we had not seen in the whole
+voyage, all the other fowls having now left us. These were as big as
+lapwings; of a grey colour, black about their eyes, with red sharp bills,
+long wings, their tails long and forked like swallows; and they flew
+flapping their wings like lapwings. In the afternoon we met with a
+rippling tide or current, or the water of some shoal or overfall; but
+were past it before we could sound. The birds last mentioned and this
+were further signs of land. In the evening we had fair weather and a
+small gale at west. At 8 o'clock we sounded again; but had no ground.
+
+We kept on still to the eastward, with an easy sail looking out sharp:
+for by the many signs we had I did expect that we were near the land. At
+12 o'clock in the night I sounded and had 45 fathom, coarse sand and
+small white shells. I presently clapped on a wind and stood to the south,
+with the wind at west, because I thought we were to the south of a shoal
+called the Abrolhos (an appellative name for shoals as it seems to me)
+which in a chart I had of that coast is laid down in 27 degrees 28
+minutes latitude stretching about 7 leagues into the sea. I was the day
+before in 27 degrees 38 minutes by reckoning. And afterwards, steering
+east by south purposely to avoid it, I thought I must have been to the
+south of it: but sounding again at 1 o'clock in the morning August the
+first, we had but 25 fathom, coral rocks; and so found the shoal was to
+the south of us. We presently tacked again, and stood to the north, and
+then soon deepened our water; for at 2 in the morning we had 26 fathom
+coral still: at 3 we had 28 coral ground: at 4 we had 30 fathom, coarse
+sand, with some coral: at 5 we had 45 fathom, coarse sand and shells;
+being now off the shoal, as appeared by the sand and shells, and by
+having left the coral. By all this I knew we had fallen into the north of
+the shoal, and that it was laid down wrong in my sea-chart: for I found
+it lie in about 27 degrees latitude, and by our run in the next day I
+found that the outward edge of it, which I sounded on, lies 16 leagues
+off shore. When it was day we steered in east-north-east with a fine
+brisk gale; but did not see the land till 9 in the morning, when we saw
+it from our topmast-head, and were distant from it about 10 leagues;
+having then 40 fathom water, and clean sand. About 3 hours after we saw
+it on our quarter-deck, being by judgment about 6 leagues off, and we had
+then 40 fathom, clean sand. As we ran in this day and the next we took
+several sights of it, at different bearings and distances; from which it
+appeared as you see. And here I would note once for all that the
+latitudes marked in the draughts, or sights here given, are not the
+latitude of the land, but of the ship when the sight was taken. This
+morning, August the first, as we were standing in, we saw several large
+seafowls, like our gannets on the coast of England, flying 3 or 4
+together; and a sort of white seamews, but black about the eyes, and with
+forked tails. We strove to run in near the shore to seek for a harbour to
+refresh us after our tedious voyage; having made one continued stretch
+from Brazil hither of about 114 degrees designing from hence also to
+begin the discovery I had a mind to make on New Holland and New Guinea.
+The land was low, and appeared even, and as we drew nearer to it it made
+with some red and some white cliffs; these last in latitude 26 10 south,
+where you will find 54 fathom within 4 miles of the shore.
+
+THAT PART DESCRIBED, AND SHARK'S BAY, WHERE HE FIRST ANCHORS.
+
+About the latitude of 26 degrees south we saw an opening, and ran in,
+hoping to find a harbour there: but when we came to its mouth, which was
+about 2 leagues wide, we saw rocks and foul ground within, and therefore
+stood out again: there we had 20 fathom water within 2 mile of the shore.
+The land everywhere appeared pretty low, flat and even; but with steep
+cliffs to the sea; and when we came near it there were no trees, shrubs
+or grass to be seen. The soundings in the latitude of 26 degrees south,
+from about 8 or 9 leagues off till you come within a league of the shore,
+are generally about 40 fathom; differing but little, seldom above 3 or 4
+fathom. But the lead brings up very different sorts of sand, some coarse,
+some fine; and of several colours, as yellow, white, grey, brown, bluish
+and reddish.
+
+When I saw there was no harbour here, nor good anchoring, I stood off to
+sea again, in the evening of the second of August, fearing a storm on a
+lee shore, in a place where there was no shelter, and desiring at least
+to have sea-room: for the clouds began to grow thick in the western
+board, and the wind was already there, and began to blow fresh almost
+upon the shore; which at this place lies along north-north-west and
+south-south-east. By 9 o'clock at night we had got a pretty good offing;
+but, the wind still increasing, I took in my main topsail, being able to
+carry no more sail than two courses and the mizzen. At 2 in the morning
+August 3 it blew very hard, and the sea was much raised; so that I furled
+all my sails but my mainsail. Though the wind blew so hard we had pretty
+clear weather till noon: but then the whole sky was blackened with thick
+clouds, and we had some rain, which would last a quarter of an hour at a
+time, and then it would blow very fierce while the squalls of rain were
+over our heads; but as soon as they were gone the wind was by much
+abated, the stress of the storm being over. We sounded several times, but
+had no ground till 8 o'clock August the 4th in the evening; and then had
+60 fathom water, coral ground. At 10 we had 56 fathom fine sand. At 12 we
+had 55 fathom, fine sand, of a pale bluish colour. It was now pretty
+moderate weather; yet I made no sail till morning; but then, the wind
+veering about to the south-west, I made sail and stood to the north: and
+at 11 o'clock the next day August 5 we saw land again, at about 10
+leagues distance. This noon we were in latitude 25 degrees 30 minutes,
+and in the afternoon our cook died, an old man, who had been sick a great
+while, being infirm before we came out of England.
+
+The 6th of August in the morning we saw an opening in the land and we ran
+into it, and anchored in 7 and a half fathom water, 2 miles from the
+shore, clean sand. It was somewhat difficult getting in here, by reason
+of many shoals we met with: but I sent my boat sounding before me. The
+mouth of this sound, which I called Shark's Bay, lies in about 25 degrees
+south latitude, and our reckoning made its longitude from the Cape of
+Good Hope to be about 87 degrees; which is less by 195 leagues than is
+usually laid down in our common charts, if our reckoning was right and
+our glasses did not deceive us. As soon as I came to anchor in this bay
+(of which I have given a plan) I sent my boat ashore to seek for fresh
+water: but in the evening my men returned, having found none. The next
+morning I went ashore myself, carrying pickaxes and shovels with me, to
+dig for water: and axes to cut wood. We tried in several places for water
+but, finding none after several trials, nor in several miles compass, we
+left any farther search for it and, spending the rest of the day in
+cutting wood, we went aboard at night.
+
+OF THE LAND THERE, VEGETABLES, BIRDS, ETC.
+
+The land is of an indifferent height, so that it may be seen 9 or 10
+leagues off. It appears at a distance very even; but as you come nigher
+you find there are many gentle risings, though none steep nor high. It is
+all a steep shore against the open sea: but in this bay or sound we were
+now in the land is low by the seaside, rising gradually in within the
+land. The mould is sand by the seaside, producing a large sort of
+samphire, which bears a white flower. Farther in the mould is reddish, a
+sort of sand producing some grass, plants, and shrubs. The grass grows in
+great tufts as big as a bushel, here and there a tuft: being intermixed
+with much heath, much of the kind we have growing on our commons in
+England. Of trees or shrubs here are divers sorts; but none above 10 foot
+high: their bodies about 3 foot about, and 5 or 6 foot high before you
+come to the branches, which are bushy and composed of small twigs there
+spreading abroad, though thick set, and full of leaves; which were mostly
+long and narrow. The colour of the leaves was on one side whitish, and on
+the other green; and the bark of the trees was generally of the same
+colour with the leaves, of a pale green. Some of these trees were
+sweet-scented, and reddish within the bark, like the sassafras, but
+redder. Most of the trees and shrubs had at this time either blossoms or
+berries on them. The blossoms of the different sort of trees were of
+several colours, as red, white, yellow, etc., but mostly blue: and these
+generally smelt very sweet and fragrant, as did some also of the rest.
+There were also beside some plants, herbs, and tall flowers, some very
+small flowers, growing on the ground, that were sweet and beautiful, and
+for the most part unlike any I had seen elsewhere.
+
+A PARTICULAR SORT OF IGUANA: FISH, AND BEAUTIFUL SHELLS; TURTLE, LARGE
+SHARK, AND WATER-SERPENTS.
+
+There were but few land-fowls; we saw none but eagles of the larger sorts
+of birds; but 5 or 6 sorts of small birds. The biggest sort of these were
+not bigger than larks; some no bigger than wrens, all singing with great
+variety of fine shrill notes; and we saw some of their nests with young
+ones in them. The water-fowls are ducks (which had young ones now, this
+being the beginning of the spring in these parts) curlews, galdens,
+crab-catchers, cormorants, gulls, pelicans; and some waterfowl, such as I
+have not seen anywhere besides. I have given the pictures of 4 several
+birds on this coast.
+
+The land animals that we saw here were only a sort of raccoon, different
+from those of the West Indies, chiefly as to their legs; for these have
+very short forelegs; but go jumping upon them as the others do (and like
+them are very good meat) and a sort of iguana, of the same shape and size
+with other iguanas described, but differing from them in 3 remarkable
+particulars: for these had a larger and uglier head, and had no tail: and
+at the rump, instead of the tail there, they had a stump of a tail which
+appeared like another head; but not really such, being without mouth or
+eyes: yet this creature seemed by this means to have a head at each end;
+and, which may be reckoned a fourth difference, the legs also seemed all
+4 of them to be forelegs, being all alike in shape and length, and
+seeming by the joints and bending to be made as if they were to go
+indifferently either head or tail foremost. They were speckled black and
+yellow like toads, and had scales or knobs on their backs like those of
+crocodiles, plated onto the skin, or stuck into it, as part of the skin.
+They are very slow in motion; and when a man comes nigh them they will
+stand still and hiss, not endeavouring to get away. Their livers are also
+spotted black and yellow: and the body when opened has a very unsavoury
+smell. I did never see such ugly creatures anywhere but here. The iguanas
+I have observed to be very good meat: and I have often eaten of them with
+pleasure; but though I have eaten of snakes, crocodiles and alligators,
+and many creatures that look frightfully enough, and there are but few I
+should have been afraid to eat of if pressed by hunger, yet I think my
+stomach would scarce have served to venture upon these New Holland
+iguanas, both the looks and the smell of them being so offensive.
+
+The sea-fish that we saw here (for here was no river, land, or pond of
+fresh water to be seen) are chiefly sharks. There are abundance of them
+in this particular sound, and I therefore give it the name of Shark's
+Bay. Here are also skates, thornbacks, and other fish of the ray kind
+(one sort especially like the sea-devil) and garfish, bonetas, etc. Of
+shellfish we got here mussels, periwinkles, limpets, oysters, both of the
+pearl kind and also eating-oysters, as well the common sort as long
+oysters; beside cockles, etc., the shore was lined thick with many other
+sorts of very strange and beautiful shells, for variety of colour and
+shape, most finely spotted with red, black, or yellow, etc., such as I
+have not seen anywhere but at this place. I brought away a great many of
+them; but lost all except a very few, and those not of the best.
+
+There are also some green-turtle weighing about 200 pounds. Of these we
+caught 2 which the water ebbing had left behind a ledge of rock, which
+they could not creep over. These served all my company 2 days; and they
+were indifferent sweet meat. Of the sharks we caught a great many which
+our men eat very savourily. Among them we caught one which was 11 foot
+long. The space between its two eyes was 20 inches, and 18 inches from
+one corner of his mouth to the other. Its maw was like a leather sack,
+very thick, and so tough that a sharp knife could scarce cut it: in which
+we found the head and bones of a hippopotamus; the hairy lips of which
+were still sound and not putrefied, and the jaw was also firm, out of
+which we plucked a great many teeth, 2 of them 8 inches long and as big
+as a man's thumb, small at one end, and a little crooked; the rest not
+above half so long. The maw was full of jelly which stank extremely:
+however I saved for a while the teeth and the shark's jaw: the flesh of
+it was divided among my men; and they took care that no waste should be
+made of it.
+
+It was the 7th of August when we came into Shark's Bay; in which we
+anchored at three several places, and stayed at the first of them (on the
+west side of the bay) till the 11th. During which time we searched about,
+as I said, for fresh water, digging wells, but to no purpose. However we
+cut good store of firewood at this first anchoring-place; and my company
+were all here very well refreshed with raccoons, turtle, shark, and other
+fish, and some fowls; so that we were now all much brisker than when we
+came in hither. Yet still I was for standing farther into the bay, partly
+because I had a mind to increase my stock of fresh water, which was began
+to be low; and partly for the sake of discovering this part of the coast.
+I was invited to go further by seeing from this anchoring-place all open
+before me; which therefore I designed to search before I left the bay. So
+on the 11th about noon I steered farther in, with an easy sail because we
+had but shallow water: we kept therefore good looking-out for fear of
+shoals; sometimes shortening, sometimes deepening the water. About 2 in
+the afternoon we saw the land ahead that makes the south of the bay, and
+before night we had again shoalings from that shore: and therefore
+shortened sail and stood off and on all night under, 2 topsails,
+continually sounding, having never more than 10 fathom, and seldom less
+than 7. The water deepened and shoaled so very gently that in heaving the
+lead 5 or 6 times we should scarce have a foot difference. When we came
+into 7 fathom either way we presently went about. From this south part of
+the bay we could not see the land from whence we came in the afternoon:
+and this land we found to be an island of 3 or 4 leagues long, as is seen
+in the plan, but it appearing barren I did not strive to go nearer it;
+and the rather because the winds would not permit us to do it without
+much trouble, and at the openings the water was generally shoal. I
+therefore made no farther attempts in this south-west and south part of
+the bay, but steered away to eastward to see if there was any land that
+way, for as yet we had seen none there. On the 12th in the morning we
+passed by the north point of that land and were confirmed in the
+persuasion of its being an island by seeing an opening to the east of it,
+as we had done on the west. Having fair weather, a small gale, and smooth
+water, we stood further on in the bay to see what land was on the east of
+it. Our soundings at first were 7 fathom, which held so a great while,
+but at length it decreased to 6. Then we saw the land right ahead that in
+the plan makes the east of the bay. We could not come near it with the
+ship, having but shoal water; and it being dangerous lying there, and the
+land extraordinary low, very unlikely to have fresh water (though it had
+a few trees on it, seemingly mangroves) and much of it probably covered
+at high-water, I stood out again that afternoon, deepening the water, and
+before night anchored in 8 fathom, clean white sand, about the middle of
+the bay. The next day we got up our anchor; and that afternoon came to an
+anchor once more near 2 islands and a shoal of coral rocks that face the
+bay. Here I scrubbed my ship; and, finding it very improbable I should
+get anything further here, I made the best of my way out to sea again,
+sounding all the way: but, finding by the shallowness of the water that
+there was no going out to sea to the east of the two islands that face
+the bay, nor between them, I returned to the west entrance, going out by
+the same way I came in at, only on the east instead of the west side of
+the small shoal to be seen in the plan; in which channel we had 10, 12,
+and 13 fathom water, still deepening upon us till we were out at sea. The
+day before we came out I sent a boat ashore to the most northerly of the
+2 islands, which is the least of them, catching many small fish in the
+meanwhile with hook and line. The boat's crew returning told me that the
+isle produces nothing but a sort of green, short, hard, prickly grass,
+affording neither wood nor fresh water; and that a sea broke between the
+2 islands, a sign that the water was shallow. They saw a large turtle and
+many skates and thornbacks, but caught none.
+
+THE AUTHOR'S REMOVING TO ANOTHER PART OF NEW HOLLAND: DOLPHINS, WHALES,
+AND MORE SEA-SERPENTS: AND OF A PASSAGE OR STRAIT SUSPECTED HERE: OF THE
+VEGETABLES, BIRDS, AND FISH.
+
+It was August the 14th when I sailed out of this bay or sound, the mouth
+of which lies, as I said, in 25 degrees 5 minutes, designing to coast
+along to the north-east till I might commodiously put in at some other
+part of New Holland. In passing out we saw 3 water-serpents swimming
+about in the sea, of a yellow colour, spotted with dark brown spots. They
+were each about 4 foot long, and about the bigness of a man's wrist, and
+were the first I saw on this coast, which abounds with several sorts of
+them. We had the winds at our first coming out at north and the land
+lying north-easterly. We plied off and on, getting forward but little
+till the next day: when the wind coming at south-south-west and south we
+began to coast it along the shore to the northward, keeping at 6 or 7
+leagues off shore; and sounding often, we had between 40 and 46 fathom
+water, brown sand with some white shells. This 15th of August we were in
+latitude 24 degrees 41 minutes. On the 16th day at noon we were in 23
+degrees 22 minutes. The wind coming at east by north we could not keep
+the shore aboard, but were forced to go farther off, and lost sight of
+the land. Then sounding we had no ground with 80 fathom line; however the
+wind shortly after came about again to the southward, and then we jogged
+on again to the northward and saw many small dolphins and whales, and
+abundance of scuttle-shells swimming on the sea; and some water-snakes
+every day. The 17th we saw the land again, and took a sight of it.
+
+The 18th in the afternoon, being 3 or 4 leagues offshore, I saw a shoal
+point, stretching from the land into the sea a league or more. The sea
+broke high on it; by which I saw plainly there was a shoal there. I stood
+farther off and coasted alongshore to about 7 or 8 leagues distance: and
+at 12 o'clock at night we sounded, and had but 20 fathom hard sand. By
+this I found I was upon another shoal, and so presently steered off west
+half an hour, and had then 40 fathom. At one in the morning of the 18th
+day we had 85 fathom: by two we could find no ground; and then I ventured
+to steer alongshore again, due north, which is two points wide of the
+coast (that lies north-north-east) for fear of another shoal. I would not
+be too far off from the land, being desirous to search into it wherever I
+should find an opening or any convenience of searching about for water,
+etc. When we were off the shoal point I mentioned where we had but 20
+fathom water, we had in the night abundance of whales about the ship,
+some ahead, others astern, and some on each side blowing and making a
+very dismal noise; but when we came out again into deeper water they left
+us. Indeed the noise that they made by blowing and dashing of the sea
+with their tails, making it all of a breach and foam, was very dreadful
+to us, like the breach of the waves in very shoal water, or among rocks.
+The shoal these whales were upon had depth of water sufficient, no less
+than 20 fathom, as I said; and it lies in latitude 22 degrees 22 minutes.
+The shore was generally bold all along; we had met with no shoal at sea
+since the Abrolho Shoal, when we first fell on the New Holland coast in
+the latitude of 28, till yesterday in the afternoon, and this night. This
+morning also when we expected by the chart we had with us to have been 11
+leagues offshore we were but 4; so that either our charts were faulty,
+which yet hitherto and afterwards we found true enough as to the lying of
+the coast, or else here was a tide unknown to us that deceived us; though
+we had found very little of any tide on this coast hitherto. As to our
+winds in the coasting thus far, as we had been within the verge of the
+general trade (though interrupted by the storm I mentioned) from the
+latitude of 28, when we first fell in with the coast: and by that time we
+were in the latitude of 25 we had usually the regular tradewind (which is
+here south-south-east) when we were at any distance from shore: but we
+had often sea and land-breezes, especially when near shore, and when in
+Shark's Bay; and had a particular north-west wind, or storm, that set us
+in thither. On this 18th of August we coasted with a brisk gale of the
+true tradewind at south-south-east, very fair and clear weather; but,
+hauling off in the evening to sea, were next morning out of sight of
+land; and the land now trending away north-easterly, and we being to the
+northward of it, and the wind also shrinking from the south-south-east to
+the east-south-east (that is, from the true tradewind to the seabreeze,
+as the land now lay) we could not get in with the land again yet awhile,
+so as to see it, though we trimmed sharp and kept close on a wind. We
+were this 19th day in latitude 21 degrees 42 minutes. The 20th we were in
+latitude 19 degrees 37 minutes and kept close on a wind to get sight of
+the land again, but could not yet see it. We had very fair weather, and
+though we were so far from the land as to be out of sight of it, yet we
+had the sea and land-breezes. In the night we had the land-breeze at
+south-south-east, a small gentle gale; which in the morning about
+sunrising would shift about gradually (and withal increasing in strength)
+till about noon we should have it at east-south-east, which is the true
+sea breeze here. Then it would blow a brisk gale, so that we could scarce
+carry our topsails double reefed: and it would continue thus till 3 in
+the afternoon, when it would decrease again. The weather was fair all the
+while, not a cloud to be seen; but very hazy, especially nigh the
+horizon. We sounded several times this 20th day and at first had no
+ground; but had afterwards from 52 to 45 fathom, coarse brown sand, mixed
+with small brown and white stones, with dints besides in the tallow.
+
+The 21st day also we had small land breezes in the night and seabreezes
+in the day: and as we saw some seasnakes every day, so this day we saw a
+great many, of two different sorts or shapes. One sort was yellow, and
+about the bigness of a man's wrist, about 4 foot long, having a flat tail
+about 4 fingers broad. The other sort was much smaller and shorter, round
+and spotted black and yellow. This day we sounded several times, and had
+45 fathom sand. We did not make the land till noon, and then saw it first
+from our topmast-head. It bore south-east by east about 9 leagues
+distance; and it appeared like a cape or head of land. The seabreeze this
+day was not so strong as the day before, and it veered out more; so that
+we had a fair wind to run in with to the shore, and at sunset anchored in
+20 fathom, clean sand, about 5 leagues from the bluff point; which was
+not a cape (as it appeared at a great distance) but the easternmost end
+of an island, about 5 or 6 leagues in length and 1 in breadth. There were
+3 or 4 rocky islands about a league from us between us and the bluff
+point; and we saw many other islands both to the east and west of it, as
+far as we could see either way from our topmast-head: and all within them
+to the south there was nothing but islands of a pretty height, that may
+be seen 8 or 9 leagues off. By what we saw of them they must have been a
+range of islands of about 20 leagues in length, stretching from
+east-north-east to west-south-west and, for ought I know, as far as to
+those of Shark's Bay; and to a considerable breadth also (for we could
+see 9 or 10 leagues in among them) towards the continent or mainland of
+New Holland, if there be any such thing hereabouts: and, by the great
+tides I met with a while afterwards, more to the north-east, I had a
+strong suspicion that here might be a kind of archipelago of islands and
+a passage possibly to the south of New Holland and New Guinea into the
+great South Sea eastward; which I had thoughts also of attempting in my
+return from New Guinea (had circumstances permitted) and told my officers
+so: but I would not attempt it at this time because we wanted water and
+could not depend upon finding it there. This place is in the latitude of
+20 degrees 21 minutes, but in the chart that I had of this coast, which
+was Tasman's, it was laid down in 19 degrees 50 minutes, and the shore is
+laid down as all along joining in one body or continent, with some
+openings appearing like rivers; and not like islands, as really they are.
+See several sights of it, Table 4 Numbers 8, 9, and 10. This place lies
+more northerly by 40 minutes than is laid down in Mr. Tasman's chart: and
+beside its being made a firm, continued land, only with some openings
+like the mouths of rivers, I found the soundings also different from what
+the pricked line of his course shows them, and generally shallower than
+he makes them; which inclines me to think that he came not so near the
+shore as his line shows, and so had deeper soundings, and could not so
+well distinguish the islands. His meridian or difference of longitude
+from Shark's Bay agrees well enough with my account, which is 232
+leagues, though we differ in latitude. And to confirm my conjecture that
+the line of his course is made too near the shore, at least not far to
+the east of this place, the water is there so shallow that he could not
+come there so nigh.
+
+HE ANCHORS ON A THIRD PART OF NEW HOLLAND, AND DIGS WELLS, BUT BRACKISH.
+
+But to proceed: in the night we had a small land-breeze, and in the
+morning I weighed anchor, designing to run in among the islands, for they
+had large channels between them, of a league wide at least, and some 2 or
+3 leagues wide. I sent in my boat before to sound, and if they found
+shoal water to return again; but if they found water enough to go ashore
+on one of the islands and stay till the ship came in: where they might in
+the meantime search for water. So we followed after with the ship,
+sounding as we went in, and had 20 fathom, till within 2 leagues of the
+bluff head, and then we had shoal water, and very uncertain soundings:
+yet we ran in still with an easy sail, sounding and looking out well, for
+this was dangerous work. When we came abreast of the bluff head, and
+about 2 mile from it, we had but 7 fathom: then we edged away from it,
+but had no more water; and, running in a little farther, we had but 4
+fathoms; so we anchored immediately; and yet when we had veered out a
+third of a cable we had 7 fathom water again; so uncertain was the water.
+My boat came immediately aboard, and told me that the island was very
+rocky and dry, and they had little hopes of finding water there. I sent
+them to sound, and bade them, if they found a channel of 8 or 10 fathom
+water to keep on, and we would follow with the ship. We were now about 4
+leagues within the outer small rocky islands, but still could see nothing
+but islands within us; some 5 or 6 leagues long, others not above a mile
+round. The large islands were pretty high; but all appeared dry and
+mostly rocky and barren. The rocks looked of a rusty yellow colour, and
+therefore I despaired of getting water on any of them; but was in some
+hopes of finding a channel to run in beyond all these islands, could I
+have spent time here, and either get to the main of New Holland, or find
+out some other islands that might afford us water and other refreshments;
+besides, that among so many islands we might have found some sort of rich
+mineral or ambergris, it being a good latitude for both these. But we had
+not sailed above a league farther before our water grew shoaler again,
+and then we anchored in 6 fathom hard sand.
+
+We were now on the inner side of the island, on whose outside is the
+bluff point. We rode a league from the island and I presently went
+ashore, and carried shovels to dig for water, but found none. There grow
+here 2 or three sorts of shrubs, one just like rosemary; and therefore I
+called this Rosemary Island. It grew in great plenty here, but had no
+smell. Some of the other shrubs had blue and yellow flowers; and we found
+2 sorts of grain like beans: the one grew on bushes; the other on a sort
+of creeping vine that runs along on the ground, having very thick broad
+leaves and the blossom like a bean blossom, but much larger, and of a
+deep red colour, looking very beautiful. We saw here some cormorants,
+gulls, crab-catchers, etc., a few small land-birds, and a sort of white
+parrot, which flew a great many together. We found some shellfish, namely
+limpets, periwinkles, and abundance of small oysters, growing on the
+rocks, which were very sweet. In the sea we saw some green-turtle, a
+pretty many sharks, and abundance of water-snakes of several sorts and
+sizes. The stones were all of rusty colour, and ponderous.
+
+We saw a smoke on an island 3 or 4 leagues off; and here also the bushes
+had been burned, but we found no other sign of inhabitants: it was
+probable that on the island where the smoke was there were inhabitants,
+and fresh water for them. In the evening I went aboard, and consulted
+with my officers whether it was best to send thither, or to search among
+any other of these islands with my boat; or else go from hence, and coast
+alongshore with the ship till we could find some better place than this
+was to ride in, where we had shoal water and lay exposed to winds and
+tides. They all agreed to go from hence; so I gave orders to weigh in the
+morning as soon as it should be light, and to get out with the
+land-breeze.
+
+According, August the 23rd, at 5 in the morning we ran out, having a
+pretty fresh land-breeze at south-south-east. By 8 o'clock we were got
+out, and very seasonably; for before 9 the seabreeze came on us very
+strong, and increasing, we took in our topsails and stood off under 2
+courses and a mizzen, this being as much sail as we could carry. The sky
+was clear, there being not one cloud to be seen; but the horizon appeared
+very hazy, and the sun at setting the night before, and this morning at
+rising, appeared very red. The wind continued very strong till 12, then
+it began to abate: I have seldom met with a stronger breeze. These strong
+seabreezes lasted thus in their turns 3 or 4 days. They sprang up with
+the sunrise; by 9 o'clock they were very strong, and so continued till
+noon, when they began to abate; and by sunset there was little wind, or a
+calm till the land-breezes came; which we should certainly have in the
+morning about 1 or 2 o'clock. The land-breezes were between the
+south-south-west and south-south-east. The seabreezes between the
+east-north-east and north-north-east. In the night while calm we fished
+with hook and line and caught good store of fish, namely, snapper, bream,
+old-wives, and dogfish. When these last came we seldom caught any others;
+for if they did not drive away the other fish, yet they would be sure to
+keep them from taking our hooks, for they would first have them
+themselves, biting very greedily. We caught also a monkfish, of which I
+brought home the picture. See Fish Figure 1.
+
+On the 25th of August we still coasted alongshore, that we might the
+better see any opening; kept sounding, and had about 20 fathom clean
+sand. The 26th day, being about 4 leagues offshore, the water began
+gradually to shoal from 20 to 14 fathom. I was edging in a little towards
+the land, thinking to have anchored; but presently after the water
+decreased almost at once, till we had but 5 fathom. I durst therefore
+adventure no farther, but steered out the same way that we came in; and
+in a short time had 10 fathom (being then about 4 leagues and a half from
+the shore) and even soundings. I steered away east-north-east coasting
+along as the land lies. This day the seabreezes began to be very moderate
+again, and we made the best of our way alongshore, only in the night
+edging off a little for fear of shoals. Ever since we left Shark's Bay we
+had fair clear weather, and so for a great while still.
+
+The 27th day we had 20 fathom water all night, yet we could not see land
+till 1 in the afternoon from our topmast-head. By 3 we could just discern
+land from our quarter-deck; we had then 16 fathom. The wind was at north
+and we steered east by north, which is but one point in on the land; yet
+we decreased our water very fast; for at 4 we had but 9 fathom; the next
+cast but 7, which frighted us; and we then tacked instantly and stood
+off: but in a short time the wind coming at north-west and
+west-north-west we tacked again, and steered north-north-east and then
+deepened our water again, and had all night from 15 to 20 fathom.
+
+The 28th day we had between 20 and 40 fathom. We saw no land this day but
+saw a great many snakes and some whales. We saw also some boobies and
+noddy-birds; and in the night caught one of these last. It was of another
+shape and colour than any I had seen before. It had a small long bill, as
+all of them have, flat feet like ducks' feet; its tail forked like a
+swallow, but longer and broader, and the fork deeper than that of the
+swallow, with very long wings; the top or crown of the head of this noddy
+was coal-black, having also small black streaks round about and close to
+the eyes; and round these streaks on each side a pretty broad white
+circle. The breast, belly, and underpart of the wings of this noddy were
+white; and the back and upper part of its wings of a faint black or smoke
+colour. See a picture of this and of the common one, Birds Figures 5 and
+6. Noddies are seen in most places between the tropics, as well in the
+East Indies, and on the coast of Brazil, as in the West Indies. They rest
+ashore a-nights, and therefore we never see them far at sea, not above 20
+or 30 leagues, unless driven off in a storm. When they come about a ship
+they commonly perch in the night, and will sit still till they are taken
+by the seamen. They build on cliffs against the sea, or rocks, as I have
+said.
+
+OF THE INHABITANTS THERE, AND GREAT TIDES, THE VEGETABLES AND ANIMALS, ETC.
+
+The 30th day being in latitude 18 degrees 21 minutes we made the land
+again, and saw many great smokes near the shore; and having fair weather
+and moderate breezes I steered in towards it. At 4 in the afternoon I
+anchored in 8 fathom water, clear sand, about 3 leagues and a half from
+the shore. I presently sent my boat to sound nearer in, and they found 10
+fathom about a mile farther in; and from thence still farther in the
+water decreased gradually to 9, 8, 7, and 2 mile distance to 6 fathom.
+This evening we saw an eclipse of the moon, but it was abating before the
+moon appeared to us; for the horizon was very hazy, so that we could not
+see the moon till she had been half an hour above the horizon: and at 2
+hours, 22 minutes after sunset, by the reckoning of our glasses, the
+eclipse was quite gone, which was not of many digits. The moon's centre
+was then 33 degrees 40 minutes high.
+
+The 31st of August betimes in the morning I went ashore with 10 or 11 men
+to search for water. We went armed with muskets and cutlasses for our
+defence, expecting to see people there; and carried also shovels and
+pickaxes to dig wells. When we came near the shore we saw 3 tall black
+naked men on the sandy bay ahead of us: but as we rowed in they went
+away. When we were landed I sent the boat with two men in her to lie a
+little from the shore at an anchor, to prevent being seized; while the
+rest of us went after the 3 black men, who were now got on the top of a
+small hill about a quarter of a mile from us, with 8 or 9 men more in
+their company. They seeing us coming ran away. When we came on the top of
+the hill where they first stood we saw a plain savannah, about half a
+mile from us, farther in from the sea. There were several things like
+haycocks standing in the savannah; which at a distance we thought were
+houses, looking just like the Hottentots' houses at the Cape of Good
+Hope: but we found them to be so many rocks. We searched about these for
+water, but could find none, nor any houses, nor people, for they were all
+gone. Then we turned again to the place where we landed, and there we dug
+for water.
+
+While we were at work there came nine or 10 of the natives to a small
+hill a little way from us, and stood there menacing and threatening of
+us, and making a great noise. At last one of them came towards us, and
+the rest followed at a distance. I went out to meet him, and came within
+50 yards of him, making to him all the signs of peace and friendship I
+could; but then he ran away, neither would they any of them stay for us
+to come nigh them; for we tried two or three times. At last I took two
+men with me, and went in the afternoon along by the seaside, purposely to
+catch one of them, if I could, of whom I might learn where they got their
+fresh water. There were 10 or 12 natives a little way off, who seeing us
+three going away from the rest of our men, followed us at a distance. I
+thought they would follow us: but there being for a while a sandbank
+between us and them, that they could not then see us, we made a halt, and
+hid ourselves in a bending of the sandbank. They knew we must be
+thereabouts, and being 3 or 4 times our number, thought to seize us. So
+they dispersed themselves, some going to the seashore and others beating
+about the sandhills. We knew by what rencounter we had had with them in
+the morning that we could easily outrun them; so a nimble young man that
+was with me, seeing some of them near, ran towards them; and they for
+some time ran away before him. But he soon overtaking them, they faced
+about and fought him. He had a cutlass, and they had wooden lances; with
+which, being many of them, they were too hard for him. When he first ran
+towards them I chased two more that were by the shore; but fearing how it
+might be with my young man, I turned back quickly, and went up to the top
+of a sandhill, whence I saw him near me, closely engaged with them. Upon
+their seeing me, one of them threw a lance at me, that narrowly missed
+me. I discharged my gun to scare them but avoided shooting any of them;
+till finding the young man in great danger from them, and myself in some;
+and that though the gun had a little frighted them at first, yet they had
+soon learnt to despise it, tossing up their hands, and crying pooh, pooh,
+pooh; and coming on afresh with a great noise, I thought it high time to
+charge again, and shoot one of them, which I did. The rest, seeing him
+fall, made a stand again; and my young man took the opportunity to
+disengage himself, and come off to me; my other man also was with me, who
+had done nothing all this while, having come out unarmed; and I returned
+back with my men, designing to attempt the natives no farther, being very
+sorry for what had happened already. They took up their wounded
+companion; and my young man, who had been struck through the cheek by one
+of their lances, was afraid it had been poisoned: but I did not think
+that likely. His wound was very painful to him, being made with a blunt
+weapon: but he soon recovered of it.
+
+Among the New Hollanders whom we were thus engaged with, there was one
+who by his appearance and carriage, as well in the morning as this
+afternoon, seemed to be the chief of them, and a kind of prince or
+captain among them. He was a young brisk man, not very tall, nor so
+personable as some of the rest, though more active and courageous: he was
+painted (which none of the rest were at all) with a circle of white paste
+or pigment (a sort of lime, as we thought) about his eyes, and a white
+streak down his nose from his forehead to the tip of it. And his breast
+and some part of his arms were also made white with the same paint; not
+for beauty or ornament, one would think, but as some wild Indian warriors
+are said to do, he seemed thereby to design the looking more terrible;
+this his painting adding very much to his natural deformity; for they all
+of them have the most unpleasant looks and the worst features of any
+people that ever I saw, though I have seen great variety of savages.
+These New Hollanders were probably the same sort of people as those I met
+with on this coast in my Voyage round the World; for the place I then
+touched at was not above 40 or 50 leagues to the north-east of this: and
+these were much the same blinking creatures (here being also abundance of
+the same kind of flesh-flies teasing them) and with the same black skins,
+and hair frizzled, tall and thin, etc., as those were: but we had not the
+opportunity to see whether these, as the former, wanted two of their
+foreteeth.
+
+We saw a great many places where they had made fires; and where there
+were commonly 3 or 4 boughs stuck up to windward of them; for the wind
+(which is the seabreeze) in the daytime blows always one way with them;
+and the land breeze is but small. By their fireplaces we should always
+find great heaps of fish-shells, of several sorts; and it is probable
+that these poor creatures here lived chiefly on the shellfish, as those I
+before described did on small fish, which they caught in wires or holes
+in the sand at low-water. These gathered their shellfish on the rocks at
+low-water; but had no wires (that we saw) whereby to get any other sorts
+of fish: as among the former I saw not any heaps of shells as here,
+though I know they also gathered some shellfish. The lances also of those
+were such as these had; however they being upon an island, with their
+women and children, and all in our power, they did not there use them
+against us, as here on the continent, where we saw none but some of the
+men under head, who come out purposely to observe us. We saw no houses at
+either place; and I believe they have none, since the former people on
+the island had none, though they had all their families with them.
+
+Upon returning to my men I saw that though they had dug 8 or 9 foot deep
+yet found no water. So I returned aboard that evening, and the next day
+being September 1st I sent my boatswain ashore to dig deeper, and sent
+the seine with him to catch fish. While I stayed aboard I observed the
+flowing of the tide, which runs very swift here, so that our nun-buoy
+would not bear above the water to be seen. It flows here (as on that part
+of New Holland I described formerly) about 5 fathom: and here the flood
+runs south-east by south till the last quarter; then it sets right in
+towards the shore (which lies here south-south-west and north-north-east)
+and the ebb runs north-west by north. When the tides slackened we fished
+with hook and line, as we had already done in several places on this
+coast; on which in this voyage hitherto we had found but little tides:
+but by the height and strength and course of them hereabouts it should
+seem that if there be such a passage or strait going through eastward to
+the great South Sea, as I said one might suspect, one would expect to
+find the mouth of it somewhere between this place and Rosemary Island,
+which was the part of New Holland I came last from.
+
+Next morning my men came aboard and brought a rundlet of brackish water
+which they got out of another well that they dug in a place a mile off,
+and about half as far from the shore; but this water was not fit to
+drink. However we all concluded that it would serve to boil our oatmeal,
+for burgoo, whereby we might save the remains of our other water for
+drinking, till we should get more; and accordingly the next day we
+brought aboard 4 hogsheads of it: but while we were at work about the
+well we were sadly pestered with the flies, which were more troublesome
+to us than the sun, though it shone clear and strong upon us all the
+while, very hot. All this while we saw no more of the natives, but saw
+some of the smokes of some of their fires at 2 or 3 miles distance.
+
+The land hereabouts was much like the part of New Holland that I formerly
+described, it is low but seemingly barricaded with a long chain of
+sandhills to the sea, that lets nothing be seen of what is farther within
+land. At high water, the tides rising so high as they do, the coast shows
+very low; but when it is low water it seems to be of an indifferent
+height. At low-watermark the shore is all rocky, so that then there is no
+landing with a boat: but at high water a boat may come in over those
+rocks to the sandy bay which runs all along on this coast. The land by
+the sea for about 5 or 600 yards is a dry sandy soil, bearing only shrubs
+and bushes of divers sorts. Some of these had them at this time of the
+year, yellow flowers or blossoms, some blue, and some white; most of them
+of a very fragrant smell. Some had fruit like peascods; in each of which
+there were just ten small peas; I opened many of them, and found no more
+nor less. There are also here some of that sort of bean which I saw at
+Rosemary Island: and another sort of small, red, hard pulse, growing in
+cods also, with little black eyes like beans. I know not their names, but
+have seen them used often in the East Indies for weighing gold; and they
+make the same use of them at Guinea, as I have heard, where the women
+also make bracelets with them to wear about their arms. These grow on
+bushes; but here are also a fruit like beans growing on a creeping sort
+of shrub-like vine. There was great plenty of all these sorts of
+cod-fruit growing on the sandhills by the seaside, some of them green,
+some ripe, and some fallen on the ground: but I could not perceive that
+any of them had been gathered by the natives; and might not probably be
+wholesome food.
+
+The land farther in, that is lower than what borders on the sea, was so
+much as we saw of it very plain and even; partly savannahs, and partly
+woodland. The savannahs bear a sort of thin coarse grass. The mould is
+also a coarser sand than that by the seaside, and in some places it is
+clay. Here are a great many rocks in the large savannah we were in, which
+are 5 or 6 foot high, and round at top like a haycock, very remarkable;
+some red, and some white. The woodland lies farther in still; where there
+were divers sorts of small trees, scarce any three foot in circumference;
+their bodies 12 or 14 foot high, with a head of small knibs or boughs. By
+the sides of the creeks, especially nigh the sea, there grow a few small
+black mangrove-trees.
+
+There are but few land animals. I saw some lizards; and my men saw two or
+three beasts like hungry wolves, lean like so many skeletons, being
+nothing but skin and bones: it is probable that it was the foot of one of
+those beasts that I mentioned as seen by us in New Holland. We saw a
+raccoon or two, and one small speckled snake.
+
+The land-fowls that we saw here were crows (just such as ours in England)
+small hawks, and kites; a few of each sort: but here are plenty of small
+turtledoves that are plump, fat and very good meat. Here are 2 or 3 sorts
+of smaller birds, some as big as larks, some less; but not many of either
+sort. The sea-fowl are pelicans, boobies, noddies, curlews, sea-pies,
+etc., and but few of these neither.
+
+The sea is plentifully stocked with the largest whales that I ever saw;
+but not to compare with the vast ones of the northern seas. We saw also a
+great many green-turtle, but caught none; here being no place to set a
+turtle-net in; here being no channel for them, and the tides running so
+strong. We saw some sharks, and paracoots; and with hooks and lines we
+caught some rock-fish and old-wives. Of shellfish, here were oysters both
+of the common kind for eating, and of the pearl kind: and also wilks,
+conches, mussels, limpets, periwinkles, etc., and I gathered a few
+strange shells; chiefly a sort not large, and thick-set all about with
+rays or spikes growing in rows.
+
+And thus having ranged about a considerable time upon this coast without
+finding any good fresh water, or any convenient place to clean the ship,
+as I had hoped for: and it being moreover the height of the dry season,
+and my men growing scorbutic for want of refreshments, so that I had
+little encouragement to search further, I resolved to leave this coast
+and accordingly in the beginning of September set sail towards Timor.
+
+...
+
+AN ACCOUNT OF SEVERAL PLANTS COLLECTED IN BRAZIL, NEW HOLLAND, TIMOR, AND
+NEW GUINEA, REFERRING TO THE FIGURES ENGRAVEN ON THE COPPER PLATES.
+
+Table 1 Figure 1. Cotton-flower from Bahia in Brazil. The flower consists
+of a great many filaments, almost as small as hairs, betwixt three and
+four inches long, of a murrey-colour; on the top of them stand small
+ash-coloured apices. The pedicule of the flower is enclosed at the bottom
+with 5 narrow stiff leaves, about 6 inches long. There is one of this
+genus in Mr. Ray's Supplement, which agrees exactly with this in every
+respect, only that is twice larger at the least. It was sent from Surinam
+by the name of momoo.
+
+Table 1 Figure 2. Jasminum Brasilanum luteum, mali limoniae folio
+nervoso, petalis crassis.
+
+Table 1 Figure 3. Crista Pavonis Brasiliana Bardanae foliis. The leaves
+are very tender and like the top leaves of Bardana major, both as to
+shape and texture: in the figure they are represented too stiff and too
+much serrated.
+
+Table 1 Figure 4. Filix Brasiliana Osmundae minori serrato folio. This
+fern is of that kind which bears its seed vessels in lines on the edge of
+the leaves.
+
+Table 2 Figure 1. Rapuntium Novae Hollandiae, flore magno coccineo. The
+perianthium composed of five long-pointed parts, the form of the seed
+vessel and the smallness of the seeds, together with the irregular shape
+of the flower and thinness of the leaves, argue this plant to be a
+Rapuntium.
+
+Table 2 Figure 2. Fucus foliis capillaceis brevissimis, vesiculis minimis
+donatis. This elegant fucus is of the Erica Marina or Sargazo kind, but
+has much finer parts than that. It was collected on this coast of New
+Holland.
+
+Table 2 Figure 3. Ricinoides Novae Hollandiae anguloso crasso folio. This
+plant is shrubby, has thick woolly leaves, especially on the underside.
+Its fruit is tricoccous, hoary on the outside with a calix divided into 5
+parts. It comes near Ricini fructu parvo frucosa Curassavica, folio
+Phylli, P.B. pr.
+
+Table 2 Figure 4. Solanum spinosum Novae Hollandiae Phylli foliis
+subrotundis. This new Solanum bears a bluish flower like the others of
+the same tribe; the leaves are of a whitish colour, thick and woolly on
+both sides, scarce an inch long and near as broad. The thorns are very
+sharp and thick set, of a deep orange colour, especially towards the
+points.
+
+Table 3 Figure 1. Scabiosa (forte) Novae Hollandiae, statices foliis
+subtus argenteis. The flower stands on a foot-stalk 4 inches long,
+included in a rough calix of a yellowish colour. The leaves are not above
+an inch long, very narrow like Thrift, green on the upper and hoary on
+the underside, growing in tufts. Whether this plant be a Scabious, Thrift
+or Helichrysum is hard to judge from the imperfect flower of the dried
+specimen.
+
+Table 3 Figure 2. Alcea Novae Hollandiae foliis angustis utrinque
+villosis. The leaves, stalk, and underside of the perianthium of this
+plant are all woolly. The petala are very tender, 5 in number, scarce so
+large as the calix: in the middle stands a columella thick set with
+thrummy apiculae, which argue this plant to belong to the Malvaceous
+kind.
+
+Table 3 Figure 3. Of what genus this shrub or tree is is uncertain,
+agreeing with none yet described, as far as can be judged by the state it
+is in. It has a very beautiful flower, of a red colour, as far as can be
+guessed by the dry specimen, consisting of 10 large petala, hoary on both
+sides, especially underneath; the middle of the flower is thick set with
+stamina, which are woolly at the bottom, the length of the petala, each
+of them crowned with its apex. The calix is divided into 5 round pointed
+parts. The leaves are like those of Amelanchier Lob., green at top and
+very woolly underneath, not running to a point, as is common in others,
+but with an indenture at the upper end.
+
+Table 3 Figure 4. Dammara ex Nova-Hollandia, Sanamundae secundae Chysii
+foliis. This new genus was first sent from Amboina by Mr. Rumphius, by
+the name of Dammara, of which he transmitted 2 kinds; one with narrow and
+long stiff leaves, the other with shorter and broader. The first of them
+is mentioned in Mr. Petiver's Centuria, page 350, by the name of Arbor
+Hortensis Javanorum foliis visce angustioribus aromaticis floribus,
+spicatis flameneis lutescentibus; Mus. Pet. As also in Mr. Ray's
+Supplement to his History of Plants now in the press. This is of the same
+genus with them, agreeing both in flower and fruit, though very much
+differing in leaves. The flowers are stamineous and seem to be of an
+herbaceous colour, growing among the leaves, which are short and almost
+round, very stiff and ribbed on the underside, of a dark green above, and
+a pale colour underneath, thick set on by pairs, answering one another
+crossways so that they cover the stalk. The fruit is as big as a
+peppercorn, almost round, of a whitish colour, dry and tough, with a hole
+on the top, containing small seeds. Anyone that sees this plant without
+its seed vessels would take it for an Erica or Sanamunda. The leaves of
+this plant are of a very aromatic taste.
+
+Table 4 Figure 1. Equisetum Novae Hollandiae frutescens foliis
+longissimis. It is doubtful whether this be an Equisetum or not; the
+textures of the leaves agree best with that genus of any, being
+articulated one within another at each joint, which is only proper to
+this tribe. The longest of them are about 9 inches.
+
+Table 4 Figure 2. Colutea Novae Hollandiae floribus amplis coccineis,
+umbellatim dispositis macula purpurea notatis. There being no leaves to
+this plant, it is hard to say what genus it properly belongs to. The
+flowers are very like to the Colutea Barbae Jovis folio flore coccineo
+Breynii; of the same scarlet colour, with a large deep purple spot in the
+vexillum, but much bigger, coming all from the same point after the
+manner of an umbel. The rudiment of the pod is very woolly, and
+terminates in a filament near 2 inches long.
+
+Table 4 Figure 3. Conyza Novae Hollandiae angustis rorismarini foliis.
+This plant is very much branched and seems to be woody. The flowers stand
+on very short pedicules, arising from the sinus of the leaves, which are
+exactly like rosemary, only less. It tastes very bitter now dry.
+
+Table 4 Figure 4. Mohoh Insulae Timor. This is a very odd plant, agreeing
+with no described genus. The leaf is almost round, green on the upper
+side and whitish underneath, with several fibres running from the
+insertion of the pedicule towards the circumference, it is umbilicated as
+Cotyledon aquatica and Faba Aegyptia. The flowers are white, standing on
+single foot-stalks, of the shape of a Stramonium, but divided into 4
+points only, as is the perianthium.
+
+Table 5 Figure 1. Fucus ex Nova Guinea uva marina dictus, foliis variis.
+This beautiful Fucus is thick set with very small short tufts of leaves,
+which by the help of a magnifying glass seem to be round and articulated,
+as if they were seed vessels; besides these there are other broad leaves,
+chiefly at the extremity of the branches, serrated on the edges. The
+vesiculae are round, of the bigness expressed in the figure.
+
+Table 5 Figure 2. Fucus ex Nova Guinea Fluviatilis Pisanae J.B. foliis.
+These plants are so apt to vary in their leaves, according to their
+different states, that it is hard to say this is distinct from the last.
+It has in several places (not all expressed in the figure) some of the
+small short leaves, or seed vessels mentioned in the former; which makes
+me apt to believe it the same, gathered in a different state; besides the
+broad leaves of that and this agree as to their shape and indentures.
+
+...
+
+
+AN ACCOUNT OF SOME FISHES THAT ARE FIGURED IN PLATES 2 AND 3 FISHES.
+
+Plate 3 Figure 5. This is a fish of the tunny kind, and agrees well
+enough with the figure in Table 3 of the Appendix to Mr. Willughby's
+History of Fishes under the name of gurabuca; it differs something, in
+the fins especially, from Piso's figure of the guarapuca.
+
+Plate 3 Figure 4. This resembles the figure of the Guaperva maxima
+caudata in Willughby's Ichthyol. Table 9.23 and the guaparva of Piso, but
+does not answer their figures in every particular.
+
+Plate 2 Figure 2. There are 2 sorts of porpoises: the one the
+long-snouted porpoise, as the seamen call it; and this is the dolphin of
+the Greeks. The other is the bottle-nose porpoise, which is generally
+thought to be the phaecena of Aristotle.
+
+Plate 2 Figure 7. This is the guaracapema of Piso and Marcgrave, by
+others called the dorado. It is figured in Willughby's Ichthyol. Table
+0.2 under the name of Delphin Belgis.
+
+...
+
+
+INDEX.
+
+Allegrance, one of the Canary Islands, its view from several points.
+
+Amphisbaena (snake) described.
+
+Amplitude, difference between the morning and evening amplitude.
+
+Arifah (fruit) described.
+
+An account of several plants collected in Brazil, New Holland, Timor, and
+New Guinea, referring to the figures in Tables 1, 2, 3, 4, 5.
+
+An account of some fishes figured on Plates 2 and 3.
+
+Bahia de todos los Santos (Bay of All-Saints) in Brazil:
+its harbour and town described.
+the product and trade of the country.
+their shipping and timber.
+the soil and fruit of the country.
+the winds and seasons.
+the time of cutting sugarcane.
+its view from several points.
+
+Bill-bird described.
+
+Birds of New Holland.
+
+Blake, sunk the Spanish galleons near Tenerife.
+
+Brazil, the view of its coast, see Bahia.
+
+Britain (New), an island discovered by the author, well-inhabited, and
+probably affording rich commodities.
+
+Bubbles, like small pearls, swimming thick in the sea.
+
+Cables, made of a sort of hair growing on trees in Brazil.
+
+Callavances, a fruit in Mayo.
+
+Canary Islands:
+their product and trade.
+the character of their present governor.
+
+Cape of Good Hope, its view from several points.
+
+Cashew (fruit) described.
+
+Channel (English) a necessary caution to those that sail through it.
+
+Chattering-crow of Brazil described.
+
+Clocking-hens of Brazil.
+
+Coconut-trees in Brazil.
+
+Cotton (Silk) its growth and description.
+
+Crusia, a fowl.
+
+Cupang, see Kupang.
+
+Curlew, a fowl.
+
+Currecoo (Bird) described.
+
+Currents in the sea, from 7 degrees 50 minutes latitude to 3 degrees 22
+minutes north.
+
+Curreso (Bird).
+
+Custard-apple described.
+
+Cuttlefish, see also Scuttle-fish.
+
+Dendees, a sort of palm-berries in Brazil.
+
+Dogs, see Water-dogs.
+
+Dunghill-fowls of Brazil.
+
+Fish of New Holland.
+
+Fish of the tunny kind, an account of.
+
+Fish called by the seamen the old-wife, an account of.
+
+Flamingo, a fowl.
+
+Flying-fish, betwixt the Canaries and Cape Verde Islands.
+
+Frape-boat, its use at the salt-pond at Mayo.
+
+Galena pintada, a bird, described.
+
+Galleons (Spanish) sunk by Admiral Blake, near Tenerife, and continue
+still there.
+
+Gerrit Denis (Garrett Dennis) Isle, its inhabitants described.
+
+Iguana (Guano), (beast) of New Holland.
+
+Guinea-hens, see Galena pintada.
+
+Guinea (New) its natives, etc.
+
+Hammocks, gentlemen carried about in them at Bahia in Brazil.
+
+Holland (New):
+coast described.
+its natives described.
+views of several parts of its coasts and islands from several points.
+
+Jago (St.):
+island and town.
+its inhabitants.
+its product.
+its animals.
+its road a very bad one.
+its view.
+
+Jenetae (Bird) described.
+
+Jenipah or Jenipapah (fruit) described.
+
+Ingwa (fruit) described.
+
+Laguna in Tenerife described.
+
+Lancerota, one of the Canary Islands, its view from several points.
+
+Mackeraw (bird) described.
+
+Malmsey wine grows in the island Tenerife.
+
+Mayo, one of the Cape Verde Islands:
+its view.
+its description.
+a large account of the making salt there.
+its soil and product.
+its inhabitants.
+its view from several points.
+
+Mendibee (fruit).
+
+Mericasah (fruit) described.
+
+Miniola, a fowl.
+
+Monkfish.
+
+Muckishaw (fruit) described.
+
+Mungaroo (fruit) described.
+
+Musteran-de-ova (fruit) described.
+
+Noddy-bird described.
+
+North-west winds give notice beforehand of their coming, at Port Oratavia
+in Tenerife, and how provided against.
+
+Oratavia, a port in Tenerife.
+
+Otee (fruit) described.
+
+Palm-berries in Brazil.
+
+Papah, a fruit described.
+
+Passage possibly to the south of New Holland and New Guinea into the
+Great South Sea eastward.
+
+Petango (fruit) described.
+
+Petrel (bird) described.
+
+Petumbo (fruit) described.
+
+Physick-nuts.
+
+Pineon (fruit).
+
+Pintado-bird described.
+
+Plants, an account of them.
+
+Plants engraven on copper, Tables 1, 2, 3, 4, 5.
+
+Plants of New Holland.
+
+Porpoises.
+
+Portuguese civil to the author.
+
+Rabek, a fowl.
+
+Raccoon of New Holland.
+
+Remora (fish) Plate 11 Figure 6.
+
+Rosemary Island in New Holland, the plant resembling rosemary from which
+the author gives this name to the island, is figured.
+
+Salt, a large account of the method of making it at Mayo.
+
+Salt-ponds at Mayo, kern only in the dry season, others in the West
+Indies in the wet only.
+
+Santa Cruz in Tenerife, its road, town and harbour described.
+
+Seamen:
+in great danger of sickness, by neglecting to shift their wet clothes in
+hot countries.
+their ignorance and obstinacy, a great impediment in long voyages.
+
+Seaweeds, see weeds.
+
+Shark of New Holland described.
+
+Shark's Bay in New Holland described.
+
+Shearwater (bird) described.
+
+Ship (the author's) foundered at sea.
+
+Ship of 50 guns built at Brazil.
+
+Skipjack (fish) described.
+
+Snake, see Watersnake, and Amphisbaena.
+
+Soursop (fruit) described.
+
+Sugar, the way of refining it in Brazil with clay.
+
+Tasman's chart rectified.
+
+Tenerife:
+its wines and fruits and animals.
+its north-west view.
+
+Timber at Brazil as good and more durable than any in Europe.
+
+Timor.
+
+Trees of New Holland.
+
+Turtle:
+lay their eggs in the wet season.
+why not eaten by the Spaniards as by the English.
+
+Turtledoves of Brazil.
+
+Variation:
+where it is increased in sailing easterly.
+where decreased in sailing easterly.
+its uncertainty, and the difficulty of taking it.
+a large table of variations observed in this voyage.
+
+Water-dog of Brazil.
+
+Watersnake:
+of Brazil, its wonderful manner of catching its prey.
+of New Holland.
+
+Weeds floating in the sea.
+
+Whales (dead) eaten by fowls.
+
+Whales, the catching and use of them in Brazil.
+
+Whales of New Holland.
+
+Winds uncertain near the Line.
+
+Yemma (bird) described.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's A Voyage to New Holland, by William Dampier
+
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