initial commit of ebook 15517HEADmain

1 files changed, 5770 insertions, 0 deletions

diff --git a/15517.txt b/15517.txt
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..499a481
--- /dev/null
+++ b/15517.txt
@@ -0,0 +1,5770 @@
+Project Gutenberg's Acetaria: A Discourse of Sallets, by John Evelyn
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Acetaria: A Discourse of Sallets
+
+Author: John Evelyn
+
+Release Date: April 1, 2005 [EBook #15517]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ACETARIA: A DISCOURSE OF SALLETS ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by David Garcia and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team.
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Joannes Evelyn Arm^r]
+
+
+
+
+
+
+_ACETARIA_
+
+A DISCOURSE OF SALLETS
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+By _JOHN EVELYN, Esq._
+
+Author of the _Kalendarium_
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_BROOKLYN_,
+
+Published by the _Women's Auxiliary_,
+
+BROOKLYN BOTANIC GARDEN
+
+1937
+
+
+
+
+_Printed in the United States of America_
+
+
+
+
+_Publisher's Note_
+
+
+This edition of Acetaria is a faithful reprint of the First Edition of
+1699, with the correction of a few obvious typographical errors, and
+those noted in the Errata of the original edition. Whereas no attempt
+has been made to reproduce the typography of the original, the spirit
+has been retained, and the vagaries of spelling and punctuation have
+been carefully followed; also the old-style S [s] has been retained.
+Much of the flavour of Acetaria is lost if it is scanned too hurriedly;
+and one should remember also that Latin and Greek were the gauge of a
+man of letters, and if the titles and quotations seem a bit ponderous,
+they are as amusing a conceit as the French and German complacencies of
+a more recent generation.
+
+
+
+
+_Foreword to Acetaria_
+
+
+John Evelyn, famous for his "Diary," was a friend and contemporary of
+Samuel Pepys. Both were conscientious public servants who had held minor
+offices in the government. But, while Pepys' diary is sparkling and
+redolent of the free manners of the Restoration, Evelyn's is the record
+of a sober, scholarly man. His mind turned to gardens, to sculpture and
+architecture, rather than to the gaieties of contemporary social life.
+Pepys was an urban figure and Evelyn was "county." He represents the
+combination of public servant and country gentleman which has been the
+supreme achievement of English culture.
+
+Horace Walpole said of him in his Catalogue of Engravers, "I must
+observe that his life, which was extended to eighty-six years, was a
+course of inquiry, study, curiosity, instruction and benevolence."
+
+Courtiers, artists, and scientists were his friends. Grinling Gibbons
+was brought to the King's notice by Evelyn, and Henry Howard, Duke of
+Norfolk, was persuaded by him to present the Arundel Marbles to the
+University of Oxford. In London he engaged in divers charitable and
+civic affairs and was commissioner for improving the streets and
+buildings in London. He had charge of the sick and wounded of the Dutch
+War and also, with the fineness of character typical of his kind, he
+remained at his post through the Great Plague. Evelyn was also active in
+organizing the Royal Society and became its first secretary.
+
+In the country he spent his time studying, writing and in developing
+his own and his brother's estates. He translated several French books,
+one of them by Nicolas de Bonnefons was entitled "The French Gardener;
+instructions how to cultivate all sorts of fruit-trees." Evelyn
+undoubtedly knew another book of de Bonnefons called "_Les Delices de
+la Campagne_." Delights of the country, according to de Bonnefons,
+consisted largely in delights of the palate, and perhaps it was this
+book which suggested to Evelyn to write a cookery-garden book such
+as Acetaria. He also translated Jean de la Quintinie's "The Compleat
+Gardener." His "Sylva, or a discourse of Forest Trees" was written as
+a protest against the destruction of trees in England being carried
+on by the glass factories and iron furnaces, and the book succeeded
+in inducing landowners to plant millions of trees.
+
+The list of Evelyn's writings shows a remarkable diversity in subject
+matter. There was a book on numismatics and translations from the Greek,
+political and historical pamphlets, and a book called "Fumifugium or the
+inconvenience of the Aer and Smoke of London dissipated," in which he
+suggests that sweet-smelling trees should be planted to purify the air
+of London. He also wrote a book called "Sculpture, or the History of
+Chalcography and Engraving in Copper."
+
+Living in the country and cultivating his fruits and vegetables, Evelyn
+grew to be an ardent believer in vegetarianism and is probably the first
+advocate in England of a meatless diet. He was so keen on preparing
+foods without meat that, like another contemporary, Sir Kenelm Digby,
+he collected recipes. These, interspersed with delightful philosophic
+comments and some directions about gardening, were assembled in the
+little book Acetaria. This was published in 1699 along with the ninth
+edition of the "Kalendarium Hortense," a gardener's almanac.
+
+The material for _Acetaria_ was gathered as early as 1679 with the
+idea of making it one chapter of an encyclopedic work on horticulture.
+The _Plan of a Royal Garden_, was Evelyn's outline for that
+ambitious work.
+
+The recipes are unusual and delicious and some of them are practical
+for today, especially for the owner of a garden where pot herbs are
+cultivated. Evelyn uses the pot herbs for flavoring soups, egg dishes,
+"salletts" and puddings. The eggs with sweet herbs prepared in ramikins
+and the pudding flavored with the petals of calendulas are particularly
+good.
+
+The book reveals his zest for living and the culture of his mind. It
+also shows the thought and life of a country gentleman during the reign
+of Charles the Second. Evidently, in Evelyn's home, the spirit of
+scientific investigation prevailed and there was a delight in new ideas.
+Evelyn supervised the garden and knew how to instruct the cook to
+prepare new dishes.
+
+Although Acetaria is a book of directions for gardening and cooking, it
+is not the least didactic but is written in a discoursive style and with
+a leisureliness and in a rhythm suited to the slow pace of a horse
+trotting through the winding lanes of the English countryside. As we
+read, we can almost see the butler bringing a fragrant pudding to the
+family assembled around the dining table in the wood-panelled room. Or
+again we can almost smell the thyme, mint, and savory growing in tidy
+rows in the well-tilled and neatly ordered garden of John Evelyn.
+
+_Helen M. Fox_
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+[Illustration: _Facsimile of Title Page of First Edition_]
+
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+_To the Right Honourable_
+
+_JOHN_
+
+Lord Somers
+
+_of Evesham_
+
+Lord _High-Chancellor_ of England,
+
+and _President_ of the _Royal-Society_.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+_My Lord_,
+
+The _Idea_ and _Plan_ of the _Royal-Society_ having been first conceiv'd
+and delineated by a _Great_ and _Learned Chancellor_, which High Office
+your Lordship deservedly bears; not as an Acquisition of Fortune, but
+your Intellectual Endowments; Conspicuous (among other Excellencies) by
+the Inclination Your Lordship discovers to promote _Natural Knowledge_:
+As it justifies the Discernment of that _Assembly_, to pitch upon Your
+Lordship for their _President_, so does it no less discover the Candor,
+yea, I presume to say, the Sublimity of your Mind, in so generously
+honoring them with your _Acceptance_ of the _Choice_ they have made.
+
+A [1]_Chancellor_, and a very Learned Lord, was the _First_ who honoured
+the _Chair_; and a no less Honorable and Learned _Chancellor_, resigns
+it to Your Lordship: So as after all the Difficulties and Hardships
+the _Society_ has hitherto gone through; it has thro' the Favour and
+Protection of its _Presidents_, not only preserv'd its Reputation from
+the Malevolence of Enemies and Detracters, but gone on _Culminating_,
+and now _Triumphantly_ in Your Lordship: Under whose propitious
+Influence, I am perswaded, it may promise it self _That_, which indeed
+has hitherto been wanting, to justifie the Glorious _Title_ it bears of
+a ROYAL SOCIETY. The _Emancipating_ it from some Remaining and
+Discouraging Circumstances, which it as yet labours under; among which,
+that of a _Precarious_ and unsteady Abode, is not the least.
+
+This _Honor_ was reserv'd for Your Lordship; and an _Honor_, permit
+me to call it, not at all unworthy the Owning of the Greatest Person
+living: Namely, the Establishing and Promoting _Real Knowledge_; and
+(next to what is _Divine_) truly so called; as far, at least, as Humane
+Nature extends towards the Knowledge of Nature, by enlarging her Empire
+beyond the Land of _Spectres, Forms, Intentional Species, Vacuum, Occult
+Qualities_, and other _Inadequate Notions_; which, by their Obstreperous
+and Noisy Disputes, affrighting, and (till of late) deterring Men from
+adventuring on further Discoveries, confin'd them in a lazy
+Acquiescence, and to be fed with _Fantasms_ and fruitless Speculations,
+which signifie nothing to the _specifick_ Nature of Things, solid and
+useful knowledge; by the _Investigation of Causes, Principles, Energies,
+Powers_, and _Effects_ of _Bodies_, and _Things Visible_; and to improve
+them for the Good and Benefit of Mankind.
+
+_My Lord_, That which the _Royal Society_ needs to accomplish an entire
+Freedom, and (by rendring their Circumstances more easie) capable to
+subsist with Honor, and to reach indeed the Glorious Ends of its
+_Institution_, is an Establishment in a more Settl'd, _Appropriate_,
+and _Commodious Place_; having hitherto (like the _Tabernacle_ in the
+_Wilderness_) been only _Ambulatory_ for almost _Forty Years_: But
+_Solomon_ built the First _Temple_; and what forbids us to hope, that as
+Great a _Prince_ may build _Solomon's House_, as that Great _Chancellor_
+(one of Your Lordship's Learned _Predecessors_) had design'd the _Plan_;
+there being nothing in that _August_ and _Noble Model_ impossible, or
+beyond the _Power_ of _Nature_ and Learned Industry.
+
+Thus, whilst King _Solomon's_ Temple was _Consecrated_ to the _God_
+of _Nature_, and his true Worship; _This_ may be _Dedicated_, and set
+apart for the _Works_ of _Nature_; deliver'd from those Illusions and
+Impostors, that are still endeavouring to cloud and depress the True,
+and _Substantial Philosophy_: A _shallow_ and _Superficial Insight_,
+wherein (as that Incomparable Person rightly observes) having made so
+many _Atheists_: whilst a _profound_ and thorow _Penetration_ into her
+_Recesses_ (which is the _Business_ of the _Royal Society_) would lead
+Men to the _Knowledge_, and _Admiration_ of the _Glorious Author_.
+
+And now, _My Lord_, I expect some will wonder what my Meaning is, to
+usher in a _Trifle_, with so much Magnificence, and end at last in a
+fine _Receipt_ for the _Dressing_ of a _Sallet_ with an Handful of
+_Pot-Herbs_! But yet, _My Lord_, this _Subject_, as low and despicable
+as it appears, challenges a Part of _Natural History_, and the Greatest
+Princes have thought it no Disgrace, not only to make it their
+_Diversion_, but their _Care_, and to promote and encourage it in the
+midst of their weightiest Affairs: He who wrote of the _Cedar_ of
+_Libanus_, wrote also of the _Hysop which grows upon the Wall_.
+
+To verifie this, how much might I say of _Gardens_ and _Rural
+Employments_, preferrable to the Pomp and Grandeur of other Secular
+Business, and that in the Estimate of as Great Men as any Age has
+produc'd! And it is of such _Great Souls_ we have it recorded; That
+after they had perform'd the Noblest Exploits for the Publick, they
+sometimes chang'd their _Scepters_ for the _Spade_, and their _Purple_
+for the Gardiner's _Apron_. And of these, some, My _Lord_, were
+_Emperors, Kings, Consuls, Dictators_, and Wise _Statesmen_; who amidst
+the most important Affairs, both in Peace and War, have quitted all
+their Pomp and Dignity in Exchange of this Learned Pleasure: Nor that
+of the most _refin'd_ Part of _Agriculture_ (the _Philosophy_ of the
+_Garden_ and _Parterre_ only) but of _Herbs_, and wholesom _Sallets_,
+and other plain and useful Parts of _Geoponicks_, and Wrote _Books_ of
+_Tillage_ and _Husbandry_; and took the _Plough-Tackle_ for their
+_Banner_, and their _Names_ from the _Grain_ and _Pulse_ they sow'd,
+as the Marks and Characters of the highest Honor.
+
+But I proceed no farther on a _Topic_ so well known to Your Lordship:
+Nor urge I Examples of such Illustrious Persons laying aside their
+Grandeur, and even of deserting their Stations; (which would infinitely
+prejudice the Publick, when worthy Men are in Place, and at the Helm)
+But to shew how consisent the Diversions of the _Garden_ and _Villa_
+were, with the highest and busiest Employment of the _Commonwealth_, and
+never thought a Reproch, or the least Diminution to the Gravity and
+Veneration due to their Persons, and the Noble Rank they held.
+
+Will Your Lordship give me Leave to repeat what is said of the Younger
+_Pliny_, (Nephew to the _Naturalist_) and whom I think we may parallel
+with the Greatest of his time (and perhaps of any since) under the
+Worthiest _Emperor_ the _Roman_ world ever had? A Person of vast
+Abilities, Rich, and High in his Master's Favour; that so Husbanded his
+time, as in the Midst of the weightiest Affairs, to have Answer'd, and
+by his [2]_Example_, made good what I have said on this Occasion. The
+Ancient and best Magistrates of _Rome_ allow'd but the _Ninth_ Day for
+the _City_ and _Publick Business_; the rest for the _Country_ and the
+_Sallet Garden_: There were then fewer _Causes_ indeed at the _Bar_;
+but never greater _Justice_, nor _better Judges_ and _Advocates_. And
+'tis hence observed, that we hardly find a Great and Wise Man among
+the Ancients, _qui nullos habuit hortos_, excepting only _Pomponius
+Atticus_; wilst his Dear _Cicero_ professes, that he never laid out his
+Money more readily, than in the purchasing of _Gardens_, and those sweet
+Retirements, for which he so often left the _Rostra_ (and Court of the
+Greatest and most flourishing State of the World) to visit, prune, and
+water them with his own Hands.
+
+But, _My Lord_, I forget with whom I am talking thus; and a _Gardiner_
+ought not to be so bold. The present I humbly make your Lordship, is
+indeed but a _Sallet_ of _Crude Herbs_: But there is among them that
+which was a _Prize_ at the _Isthmian Games_; and Your Lordship knows
+who it was both accepted, and rewarded as despicable an Oblation of
+this kind. The Favor I humbly beg, is Your Lordship's Pardon for this
+Presumption. The Subject is _mean_, and requires it, and my _Reputation_
+in danger; should Your Lordship hence suspect that one could never write
+so much of _dressing Sallets_, who minded anything serious, besides the
+gratifying a Sensual Appetite with a Voluptuary _Apician_ Art.
+
+Truly, _My Lord_, I am so far from designing to promote those _Supplicia
+Luxuriae_, (as _Seneca_ calls them) by what I have here written; that
+were it in my Power, I would recall the World, if not altogether to
+their Pristine _Diet_, yet to a much more _wholsome_ and _temperate_
+than is now in Fashion: And what if they find me like to some who are
+eager after _Hunting_ and other Field-Sports, which are _Laborious_
+Exercises? and _Fishing_, which is indeed a _Lazy_ one? who, after all
+their Pains and Fatigue, never eat what they take and catch in either:
+For some such I have known: And tho' I cannot affirm so of my self,
+(when a well drest and excellent _Sallet_ is before me) I am yet a very
+moderate Eater of them. So as to this _Book-Luxury_, I can affirm, and
+that truly what the _Poet_ says of himself (on a less innocent Occasion)
+_Lasciva pagina, vita proba._ God forbid, that after all I have advanc'd
+in Praise of _Sallets_, I should be thought to plead for the Vice I
+censure, and chuse that of _Epicurus_ for my _Lemma_; _In hac arte
+consenui_; or to have spent my time in nothing else. The _Plan_ annext
+to these Papers, and the _Apparatus_ made to superstruct upon it, would
+acquit me of having bent all my Contemplations on _Sallets_ only. What
+I humbly offer Your Lordship, is (as I said) Part of _Natural History_,
+the Product of _Horticulture_, and the _Field_, dignified by the most
+illustrious, and sometimes tilled _Laureato Vomere_; which, as it
+concerns a Part of _Philosophy_, I may (without Vanity) be allow'd to
+have taken some Pains in Cultivating, as an inferior Member of the
+_Royal Society_.
+
+But, _My Lord_, wilst You read on (if at least You vouchsafe me that
+Honor to read at all) I am conscious I rob the Publick of its most
+Precious Moments.
+
+I therefore Humbly again Implore Your Lordship's Pardon: Nor indeed
+needed I to have said half this, to kindle in Your Breast, that which is
+already shining there (Your Lordship's Esteem of the _Royal Society_)
+after what You were pleas'd to Express in such an Obliging manner, when
+it was lately to wait upon Your Lordship; among whom I had the Honor
+to be a Witness of Your Generous, and Favourable Acceptance of their
+Addresses, who am,
+
+_My Lord,
+  Your Lordship's Most Humble
+    and Most Obedient Servant,
+
+  JOHN EVELYN_.
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+THE PREFACE
+
+
+The _Favourable Entertainment which the_ Kalendar _has found,
+encouraging the_ Bookseller _to adventure upon_ a Ninth Impression, I
+_could not refuse his Request of my Revising, and Giving it the best
+Improvement I was capable_, to an Inexhaustible Subject, _as it regards
+a Part of_ Horticulture; _and offer some little Aid to such as love a
+Diversion so Innocent and Laudable. There are those of late, who have
+arrogated, and given the Glorious Title_ of Compleat _and_ Accomplish'd
+Gardiners, _to what they have Publish'd; as if there were nothing
+wanting, nothing more remaining, or farther to be expected from the
+Field; and that_ Nature _had been quite emptied of all her fertile
+Store: Whilst those who thus magnifie their Discoveries, have after
+all, penetrated but a very little Way into this Vast, Ample, and as
+yet, Unknown Territory; Who see not, that it would still require the
+Revolution of many Ages; deep, and long_ Experience, _for any Man to
+Emerge that Perfect, and Accomplish'd Artist_ Gardiner _they boast
+themselves to be: Nor do I think, Men will ever reach the End, and far
+extended Limits of the_ Vegetable Kingdom, _so incomprehensible is the
+Variety it every Day produces, of the most Useful, and Admirable of all
+the Aspectable Works of God; since almost all we_ see, _and_ touch,
+_and_ taste, _and_ smell, eat _and_ drink, are clad _with, and_ defended
+(_from the Greatest_ Prince _to the Meanest_ Peasant) _is furnished from
+that Great and Universal Plantation_, Epitomiz'd _in our_ Gardens,
+_highly worth the Contemplation of the most Profound Divine, and
+Deepest_ Philosopher.
+
+_I should be asham'd to acknowledge how little I have advanced, could
+I find that ever any Mortal Man from_ Adam, Noah, Solomon, Aristotle,
+Theophrastus, Dioscorides, _and the rest of Nature's Interpreters, had
+ever arriv'd to the perfect Knowledge of any one_ Plant, _or_ Vulgar
+Weed _whatsoever: But this perhaps may yet possibly be reserv'd for
+another State of Things, and a_ [3]_longer Day; that is_, When Time
+shall be no more, but Knowledge shall be encreas'd.
+
+_We have heard of one who studied and contemplated the Nature of_
+Bees _only, for_ Sixty Years: _After which, you will not wonder,
+that a Person of my Acquaintance, should have spent almost_ Forty,
+_in Gathering and Amassing Materials for an_ Hortulan _Design, to
+so enormous an Heap, as to fill some_ Thousand Pages; _and yet be
+comprehended within two, or three Acres of Ground; nay, within the
+Square of less than_ One (_skilfully Planted and Cultivated) sufficient
+to furnish, and entertain his Time and Thoughts all his Life long, with
+a most Innocent, Agreeable, and Useful Employment. But you may justly
+wonder, and Condemn the Vanity of it too, with that Reproach_, This Man
+began to build, but was not able to finish! _This has been the Fate of
+that Undertaking; and I dare promise, will be of whosoever imagines
+(without the Circumstances of extraordinary Assistance, and no ordinary
+Expence) to pursue the_ Plan, _erect, and finish the_ Fabrick _as it
+ought to be_.
+
+_But this is that which_ Abortives _the Perfection of the most Glorious
+and Useful Undertakings; the Unsatiable Coveting to Exhaust all that
+should, or can be said upon every Head: If such a one have any thing
+else to mind, or do in the World, let me tell him, he thinks of Building
+too late; and rarely find we any, who care to superstruct upon the
+Foundation of another, and whose_ Ideas _are alike. There ought
+therefore to be as many_ Hands, _and_ Subsidiaries _to such a Design_
+(_and those_ Matters _too_) _as there are distinct Parts of the Whole
+(according to the subsequent Table) that those who have the Means and
+Courage, may_ (_tho' they do not undertake the_ Whole) _finish a_ Part
+_at least, and in time Unite their Labours into one Intire, Compleat,
+and Consummate Work indeed_.
+
+_Of_ One _or_ Two _of these_, I _attempted only a_ Specimen _in my_
+SILVA _and the_ KALENDAR; Imperfect, _I say, because they are both
+capable of Great Improvements: It is not therefore to be expected_
+(_Let me use the Words of an Old, and Experienced_ Gardiner) Cuncta
+me dicturum, quae vastitas ejus scientiae contineret, sed plurima; nam
+illud in unius hominis prudentiam cadere non poterit, neque est ulla
+Disciplina aut Ars, quae singulari consummata sit ingenio.
+
+_May it then suffice_ aliquam partem tradidisse, _and that I have done
+my Endeavour_.
+
+   ... Jurtilis olim
+   Ne Videar vixisse.
+
+
+_Much more might I add upon this Charming, and Fruitful Subject (I mean,
+concerning_ Gardening:) _But this is not a Place to Expatiate, deterr'd,
+as I have long since been, from so bold an Enterprize, as the Fabrick
+I mentioned. I content my self then with an_ Humble Cottage, _and a
+Simple_ Potagere, _Appendant to the_ Calendar; _which, Treating only
+(and that briefly) of the_ Culture _of_ Moderate Gardens; _Nothing
+seems to me, shou'd be more_ Welcome _and_ Agreeable, _than whilst the
+Product of them is come into more_ Request _and_ Use _amongst us, than
+heretofore (beside what we call, and distinguish by the Name of_ Fruit)
+_I did annex some particular Directions concerning_ S A L L E T S.
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+_THE_
+
+ PLAN
+
+_OF A_
+
+_ROYAL GARDEN:_
+
+
+Describing, and Shewing the _Amplitude_, and _Extent_ of that Part of
+_Georgicks_, which belongs to _Horticulture_.
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+In Three Books
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+_BOOK I_.
+
+
+_Chap. I_. Of _Principles and Elements_ in general.
+
+_Chap. II_. Of the Four (vulgarly reputed) Elements; _Fire, Air, Water;
+Earth_.
+
+_Chap. III_. Of the Celestial _Influences_, and particularly of the
+_Sun, Moon_, and of the _Climates_.
+
+_Chap. IV_. Of the Four _Annual Seasons_.
+
+_Chap. V_. Of the Natural _Mould_ and _Soil_ of a Garden.
+
+_Chap. VI_. Of _Composts_, and _Stercoration, Repastination, Dressing_
+and _Stirring_ the _Earth_ and _Mould_ of a Garden.
+
+
+_BOOK II_.
+
+
+_Chap. I_. A Garden _Derived_ and _Defin'd;_ its _Dignity, Distinction_,
+and _Sorts_.
+
+_Chap. II_. Of a _Gardiner_, how to be _qualify 'd, regarded_ and
+_rewarded_; his _Habitation, Cloathing, Diet_, Under-_Workmen_ and
+_Assistants_.
+
+_Chap. III_. Of the _Instruments_ belonging to a Gardiner; their various
+_Uses_, and _Machanical_ Powers.
+
+_Chap. IV_. Of the _Terms_ us'd, and affected by Gardiners.
+
+_Chap. V_. Of _Enclosing, Fencing, Plotting_, and disposing of the
+Ground; and of _Terraces, Walks, Allies, Malls, Bowling-Greens, &c._
+
+_Chap. VI_. Of a _Seminary, Nurseries_; and of Propagating _Trees,
+Plants_ and _Flowers, Planting_ and _Transplanting, &c._
+
+_Chap. VII_. Of _Knots, Parterres, Compartiments, Borders, Banks_ and
+_Embossments_.
+
+_Chap. VIII_. Of _Groves, Labyrinths, Dedals, Cabinets, Cradles,
+Close-Walks, Galleries, Pavilions, Portico's, Lanterns_, and other
+_Relievo's_; of _Topiary_ and _Hortulan Architecture_.
+
+_Chap. IX_. Of _Fountains, Jetto's, Cascades, Rivulets, Piscinas,
+Canals, Baths_, and other Natural, and Artificial _Water-works_.
+
+_Chap. X_. Of _Rocks, Grotts, Cryptae, Mounts, Precipices, Ventiducts,
+Conservatories_, of _Ice_ and _Snow_, and other Hortulan Refreshments.
+
+_Chap. XI_. Of _Statues, Busts, Obelisks, Columns, Inscriptions, Dials,
+Vasa's, Perspectives, Paintings_, and other Ornaments.
+
+_Chap. XII_. Of _Gazon-Theatres, Amphitheatres_, Artificial _Echo's,
+Automata_ and _Hydraulic Musck_.
+
+_Chap. XIII_. Of _Aviaries, Apiaries, Vivaries, Insects, &c._
+
+_Chap. XIV_. Of _Verdures, Perennial Greens_, and _Perpetual Springs_.
+
+_Chap. XV_. Of _Orangeries, Oporotheca's, Hybernacula, Stoves_, and
+Conservatories of Tender _Plants_ and _Fruits_, and how to order them.
+
+_Chap. XVI_. Of the _Coronary_ Garden: _Flowers_ and _Rare Plants_, how
+they are to be _Raised, Governed_ and _Improved_; and how the Gardiner
+_is_ to keep his _Register_.
+
+_Chap. XVII_. Of the _Philosophical Medical_ Garden.
+
+_Chap. XVIII_. Of _Stupendous_ and _Wonderful_ _Plants_.
+
+_Chap. XIX_. Of the _Hort-Yard_ and _Potagere_; and what _Fruit-Trees,
+Olitory_ and _Esculent_ _Plants_, may be admitted into a Garden of
+Pleasure.
+
+_Chap. XX_. Of _Sallets_.
+
+_Chap. XXI_. Of a _Vineyard_, and Directions concerning the making of
+_Wine_ and other _Vinous_ Liquors, and of _Teas_.
+
+_Chap. XXII_. Of _Watering, Pruning, Plashing, Pallisading, Nailing,
+Clipping, Mowing, Rowlling, Weeding, Cleansing, &c._
+
+_Chap. XXIII_. Of the _Enemies_ and _Infirmities_ to which Gardens are
+obnoxious, together with _Remedies_.
+
+_Chap. XXIV_. Of the Gardiner's _Almanack_ or _Kalendarium Hortense_,
+directing what he is to do Monthly, and what _Fruits_ and _Flowers_ are
+in prime.
+
+
+_BOOK III_.
+
+
+_Chap. I_. Of _Conserving, Properating, Retarding, Multiplying,
+Transmuting_, and Altering the
+
+_Species, Forms_, and (reputed) _Substantial Qualities_ of _Plants,
+Fruits_ and _Flowers_.
+
+_Chap. II_. Of the Hortulan _Elaboratory_; and of _distilling_ and
+_extracting_ of _Waters, Spirits, Essences, Salts, Colours_,
+Resuscitation of _Plants_, with other rare Experiments, and an Account
+of their _Virtues_.
+
+_Chap. III_. Of Composing the _Hortus Hyemalis_, and making Books, of
+_Natural, Arid Plants_ and _Flowers_, with several Ways of Preserving
+them in their _Beauty_.
+
+_Chap. IV_. Of _Painting_ of Flowers, Flowers _enamell'd, Silk,
+Callico's, Paper, Wax, Guns, Pasts, Horns, Glass, Shells, Feathers,
+Moss, Pietra Comessa, Inlayings, Embroyderies, Carvings_, and other
+Artificial Representations of them.
+
+_Chap. V_. Of _Crowns, Chaplets, Garlands, Festoons, Encarpa,
+Flower-Pots, Nosegays, Poeses, Deckings_, and other Flowery _Pomps_.
+
+_Chap. VI_. Of _Hortulan Laws_ and _Privileges_.
+
+_Chap. VII_. Of the _Hortulan Study_, and of a _Library, Authors_ and
+_Books_ assistant to it.
+
+_Chap. VIII_. Of _Hortulan Entertainments, Natural, Divine, Moral_, and
+_Political_; with divers _Historical_ Passages, and Solemnities, to shew
+the _Riches, Beauty, Wonder, Plenty, Delight_, and Universal Use of
+Gardens.
+
+_Chap. IX_. Of Garden _Burial_.
+
+_Chap. X_. Of _Paradise_, and of the most _Famous Gardens_ in the World,
+_Ancient_ and _Modern_.
+
+_Chap. XI_. The Description of a _Villa_.
+
+_Chap. XII_. The _Corollary_ and _Conclusion_.
+
+  ----_Laudato ingentia rura_,
+  _Exiguum colito_.----
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+ACETARIA:
+
+A Discourse of Sallets
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+Sallets in general consist of certain _Esculent_ Plants and Herbs,
+improv'd by Culture, Industry, and Art of the _Gard'ner_: Or, as others
+say, they are a Composition of _Edule_ Plants and Roots of several
+kinds, to be eaten _Raw_ or _Green, Blanch'd_ or _Candied_: simple--and
+_per se_, or intermingl'd with others according to the Season. The
+Boil'd, Bak'd, Pickl'd, or otherwise disguis'd, variously accommodated
+by the skilful Cooks, to render them grateful to the more feminine
+Palat, or Herbs rather for the Pot, _&c._ challenge not the name of
+_Sallet_ so properly here, tho' sometimes mention'd; And therefore,
+
+Those who _Criticize_ not so nicely upon the Word, seem to distinguish
+the [4]_Olera_ (which were never eaten _Raw_) from _Acetaria_, which
+were never _Boil'd;_ and so they derive the Etymology of _Olus_, from
+_Olla, the Pot_. But others deduce it from [Greek: Olos], comprehending
+the _Universal Genus_ of the Vegetable Kingdom; as from [Greek: Pan]
+_Panis;_ esteeming that he who had [5]_Bread_ and _Herbs_, was
+sufficiently bless'd with all a frugal Man cou'd need or desire: Others
+again will have it, _ab Olendo_, i.e. _Crescendo_, from its continual
+_growth and springing up_: So the younger _Scaliger_ on _Varro_: But his
+Father _Julius_ extends it not so generally to all Plants, as to all
+the _Esculents_, according to the Text: _We call those_ Olera (says
+[6]_Theophrastus) which are commonly eaten_, in which sense it may be
+taken, to include both _Boil'd_ and _Raw_: Last of all, _ab Alendo_,
+as having been the Original, and genuine Food of all Mankind from the
+[7]Creation.
+
+A great deal more of this Learned Stuff were to be pick'd up from the
+_Cumini Sectores_, and impertinently Curious; whilst as it concerns
+the business in hand, we are by _Sallet_ to understand a particular
+Composition of certain _Crude_ and fresh Herbs, such as usually are,
+or may safely be eaten with some _Acetous_ Juice, _Oyl, Salt_, &c. to
+give them a grateful Gust and _Vehicle_; exclusive of the [8][Greek:
+psuchrai trapezai], eaten without their due Correctives, which the
+Learned [9]_Salmasius_, and, indeed generally, the [10]old _Physicians_
+affirm (and that truly) all _Crude_ and raw [Greek: lachana] require
+to render them wholsome; so as probably they were from hence, as
+[11]_Pliny_ thinks, call'd _Acetaria_: and not (as _Hermolaus_ and
+some others) _Acceptaria ab Accipiendo_; nor from Accedere, though so
+[12]ready at hand, and easily dress'd; requiring neither _Fire, Cost_,
+or _Attendance_, to boil, roast, and prepare them as did Flesh, and
+other Provisions; from which, and other Prerogatives, they were always
+in use, _&c._ And hence indeed the more frugal _Italians_ and _French_,
+to this Day, gather _Ogni Verdura_, any thing almost that's _Green_
+and Tender, to the very Tops of _Nettles_; so as every Hedge affords
+a _Sallet_ (not unagreeable) season'd with its proper _Oxybaphon_ of
+_Vinegar, Salt, Oyl_, &c. which doubtless gives it both the Relish
+and Name of _Salad, Emsalada_[13], as with us of _Sallet_; from the
+_Sapidity_, which renders not _Plants_ and _Herbs_ alone, but _Men_
+themselves, and their Conversations, pleasant and agreeable: But of
+this enough, and perhaps too much; least whilst I write of _Salt_ and
+_Sallet_, I appear my self _Insipid_: I pass therefore to the
+Ingredients, which we will call
+
+
+Furniture _and_ Materials
+
+
+The _Materials_ of _Sallets_, which together with the grosser _Olera_,
+consist of _Roots, Stalks, Leaves, Buds, Flowers_, &c. _Fruits_
+(belonging to another Class) would require a much ampler Volume, than
+would suit our Kalendar, (of which this pretends to be an _Appendix_
+only) should we extend the following _Catalogue_ further than to a brief
+enumeration only of such _Herbaceous_ Plants, _Oluscula_ and smaller
+_Esculents_, as are chiefly us'd in _Cold Sallets_, of whose Culture we
+have treated there; and as we gather them from the _Mother_ and _Genial
+Bed_, with a touch only of their _Qualities_, for Reasons hereafter
+given.
+
+
+1. Alexanders, _Hipposelinum; S. Smyrnium vulgare_ (much of the
+nature of _Persly_) is moderately hot, and of a cleansing Faculty,
+Deobstructing, nourishing, and comforting the Stomach. The gentle fresh
+Sprouts, Buds, and Tops are to be chosen, and the Stalks eaten in the
+Spring; and when _Blanch'd_, in Winter likewise, with _Oyl, Pepper,
+Salt_, &c. by themselves, or in Composition: They make also an excellent
+_Vernal_ Pottage.
+
+
+2. Artichaux, _Cinara_, (_Carduus Sativus_) hot and dry. The Heads being
+slit in quarters first eaten raw, with _Oyl_, a little _Vinegar, Salt_,
+and _Pepper_, gratefully recommend a Glass of _Wine_; Dr. _Muffet_ says,
+at the end of Meals.
+
+They are likewise, whilst tender and small, fried in fresh _Butter_
+crisp with _Persley_. But then become a most delicate and excellent
+Restorative, when full grown, they are boil'd the common way. The
+_Bottoms_ are also bak'd in _Pies_, with _Marrow, Dates_, and other rich
+Ingredients: In _Italy_ they sometimes broil them, and as the Scaly
+Leaves open, baste them with fresh and sweet _Oyl_; but with Care
+extraordinary, for if a drop fall upon the Coals, all is marr'd; that
+hazard escap'd, they eat them with the Juice of _Orange_ and _Sugar_.
+
+The Stalk is _Blanch'd_ in Autumn, and the _Pith_ eaten raw or boil'd.
+The way of preserving them fresh all Winter, is by separating the
+_Bottoms_ from the _Leaves_, and after Parboiling, allowing to every
+_Bottom_, a small earthen glaz'd Pot; burying it all over in fresh
+melted _Butter_, as they do Wild-Fowl, _&c._ Or if more than one, in
+a larger Pot, in the same Bed and Covering, _Layer_ upon _Layer_.
+
+They are also preserv'd by stringing them on Pack-thread, a clean Paper
+being put between every _Bottom_, to hinder them from touching one
+another, and so hung up in a dry place. They are likewise _Pickl'd_.
+
+'Tis not very long since this noble _Thistle_ came first into _Italy_,
+Improv'd to this Magnitude by Culture; and so rare in _England_, that
+they were commonly sold for _Crowns_ a piece: But what _Carthage_ yearly
+spent in them (as _Pliny_ computes the Sum) amounted to _Sestertia Sena
+Millia_, 30000 _l. Sterling_.
+
+_Note_, That the _Spanish Cardon_, a wild and smaller _Artichoak_, with
+sharp pointed Leaves, and lesser Head; the Stalks being _Blanch'd_ and
+tender, are serv'd-up _a la Poiverade_ (that is with _Oyl, Pepper_, &c.)
+as the _French_ term is.
+
+
+3. Basil, _Ocimum_ (as _Baulm_) imparts a grateful Flavour, if not too
+strong, somewhat offensive to the Eyes; and therefore the tender Tops
+to be very sparingly us'd in our _Sallet_.
+
+
+4. Baulm, _Melissa, Baum_, hot and dry, Cordial and exhilarating,
+sovereign for the Brain, strengthning the Memory, and powerfully chasing
+away _Melancholy_. The tender Leaves are us'd in Composition with other
+Herbs; and the Sprigs fresh gather'd, put into _Wine_ or other Drinks,
+during the heat of Summer, give it a marvellous quickness: This noble
+Plant yields an incomparable _Wine_, made as is that of _Cowslip_-Flowers.
+
+
+5. Beet, _Beta_; of which there is both _Red, Black_, and _White_: The
+_Costa_, or Rib of the _White Beet_ (by the _French_ call'd the _Chard_)
+being boil'd, melts, and eats like Marrow. And the _Roots_ (especially
+of the _Red_) cut into thin slices, boil'd, when cold, is of it self a
+grateful winter _Sallet_; or being mingl'd with other _Oluscula, Oyl,
+Vinegar, Salt_, &c. 'Tis of quality Cold and Moist, and naturally
+somewhat _Laxative_: But however by the _Epigrammatist_ stil'd
+_Foolish_ and _Insipid, as Innocentior quam Olus_ (for so the Learned
+[14]_Harduin_ reads the place) 'tis by _Diphilus_ of old, and others
+since, preferr'd before _Cabbage_ as of better Nourishment: _Martial_
+(not unlearn'd in the Art of _Sallet_) commends it with _Wine_ and
+_Pepper_: He names it indeed--_Fabrorum prandia_, for its being so
+vulgar. But eaten with _Oyl_ and _Vinegar_, as usually, it is no
+despicable _Sallet_. There is a _Beet_ growing near the Sea, which is
+the most delicate of all. The Roots of the _Red Beet_, pared into thin
+Slices and Circles, are by the _French_ and _Italians_ contriv'd into
+curious Figures to adorn their _Sallets_.
+
+
+_6_. Blite, _Blitum_; English _Mercury_, or (as our Country House wives
+call it) _All-good_, the gentle _Turiones_, and Tops may be eaten as
+_Sparagus_, or sodden in Pottage: There is both a white and red, much
+us'd in _Spain_ and _Italy_; but besides its humidity and detersive
+Nature, 'tis _Insipid_ enough.
+
+
+7. Borrage, _Borrago_ (_Gaudia semper ago_) hot and kindly moist,
+purifying the Blood, is an exhilarating Cordial, of a pleasant Flavour:
+The tender Leaves, and Flowers especially, may be eaten in Composition;
+but above all, the Sprigs in _Wine_, like those of _Baum_, are of known
+Vertue to revive the _Hypochondriac_, and chear the hard Student. See
+_Bugloss_.
+
+
+8. Brooklime, _Anagallis aquatica_; moderately hot and moist, prevalent
+in the _Scorbute_, and _Stone_.
+
+
+9. Bugloss, _Buglossum_; in mature much like _Borrage_, yet something
+more astringent. The Flowers of both, with the intire Plant, greatly
+restorative, being Conserv'd: And for the rest, so much commended by
+_Averroes_; that for its effects, cherishing the Spirits, justly call'd
+_Euphrosynum_; Nay, some will have it the _Nepenthes_ of _Homer_: But
+indeed, what we now call _Bugloss_, was not that of the Ancients, but
+rather _Borrage_, for the like Virtue named _Corrago_.
+
+
+Burnet, See _Pimpinella_.
+
+
+10. Buds, _Gemmae, Turiones_; the first Rudiments and Tops of most
+_Sallet_-Plants, preferrable to all other less tender Parts; such as
+_Ashen-Keys, Broom-buds_, hot and dry, retaining the vertue of _Capers_,
+esteem'd to be very opening, and prevalent against the _Spleen_ and
+_Scurvy_; and being _Pickl'd_, are sprinkl'd among the _Sallets_, or
+eaten by themselves.
+
+
+11. Cabbage, _Brassica_ (and its several kinds) _Pompey's_ beloved Dish,
+so highly celebrated by old [15]_Cato_, _Pythagoras_, and _Chrysippus_
+the Physician (as the only _Panacea_) is not so generally magnify'd
+by the rest of Doctors, as affording but a crass and melancholy Juice;
+yet _Loosening_ if but moderately boil'd, if over-much, _Astringent_,
+according to _C. Celsus_; and therefore seldom eaten raw, excepting
+by the _Dutch_. The _Cymae_, or Sprouts rather of the _Cole_ are very
+delicate, so boil'd as to retain their Verdure and green Colour. In
+raising this _Plant_ great care is to be had of the Seed. The best comes
+from _Denmark_ and _Russia_, especially the _Cauly-flower_, (anciently
+unknown) or from _Aleppo_. Of the _French_, the _Pancaliere a la large
+Coste_, the white, large and ponderous are to be chosen; and so the
+_Cauly-flower_: After boiling some steep them in Milk, and seethe them
+again in Beef-Broth: Of old they added a little _Nitre_. The _Broccoli_
+from _Naples_, perhaps the _Halmyridia_ of _Pliny_ (or _Athenaeus_
+rather) _Capiata marina_ & _florida_, our _Sea-keele_ (the ancient
+_Crambe_) and growing on our Coast, are very delicate, as are the
+_Savoys_, commended for being not so rank, but agreeable to most
+_Palates_, and of better Nourishment: In general, _Cabbages_ are thought
+to allay Fumes, and prevent Intoxication: But some will have them
+noxious to the Sight; others impute it to the _Cauly-flower_ rather: But
+whilst the Learned are not agreed about it, _Theophrastus_ affirms the
+contrary, and _Pliny_ commends the Juice raw, with a little _Honey_, for
+the moist and weeping Eye, not the dry or dull. But after all, _Cabbage_
+('tis confess'd) is greatly accus'd for lying undigested in the Stomach,
+and provoking Eructations; which makes me wonder at the Veneration we
+read the Ancients had for them, calling them _Divine_, and Swearing,
+_per Brassicam_. 'Tis scarce an hundred Years since we first had
+_Cabbages_ out of _Holland_. Sir _Anth. Ashley_ of _Wiburg St. Giles_
+in _Dorsetshire_, being (as I am told) the first who planted them in
+_England_.
+
+
+12. Cardon, See _Artichaux_.
+
+
+13. Carrots, _Dauci_, or _Pastinaca Sativa_; temperately warm and dry,
+Spicy; the best are yellow, very nourishing; let them be rais'd in
+Ground naturally rich, but not too heavy.
+
+
+14. Chervile, _Chaerophyllum, Myrrhis_; The sweet aromatick _Spanish
+Chervile_, moderately hot and dry: The tender _Cimae_, and Tops, with
+other Herbs, are never to be wanting in our _Sallets_, (as long as they
+may be had) being exceedingly wholsome and chearing the Spirits: The
+_Roots_ are also boil'd and eaten Cold; much commended for Aged Persons:
+This (as likewise _Spinach_) is us'd in _Tarts_, and serves alone for
+divers Sauces.
+
+
+  Cibbols.   \
+  Cives.     / Vide Onions, _Schoenopraesson_.
+
+
+15. Clary, _Horminum_, when tender not to be rejected, and in _Omlets_,
+made up with _Cream_, fried in sweet _Butter_, are eaten with _Sugar_,
+Juice of _Orange_, or _Limon_.
+
+
+16. Clavers, _Aparine_; the tender Winders, with young _Nettle-Tops_,
+are us'd in _Lenten_ Pottages.
+
+
+17. Corn-sallet, _Valerianella_; loos'ning and refreshing: The Tops
+and Leaves are a _Sallet_ of themselves, seasonably eaten with other
+Salleting, the whole Winter long, and early Spring: The _French_ call
+them _Salad de Preter_, for their being generally eaten in _Lent_.
+
+
+18. Cowslips, _Paralysis_: See _Flowers_.
+
+
+19. Cresses, _Nasturtium_, Garden _Cresses_; to be monthly sown: But
+above all the _Indian_, moderately hot, and aromatick, quicken the
+torpent Spirits, and purge the Brain, and are of singular effect against
+the _Scorbute_. Both the tender Leaves, _Calices, Cappuchin Capers_,
+and _Flowers_, are laudably mixed with the colder Plants. The _Buds_
+being Candy'd, are likewise us'd in Strewings all Winter. There is the
+_Nastur. Hybernicum_ commended also, and the vulgar _Water-Cress_,
+proper in the Spring, all of the same Nature, tho' of different Degrees,
+and best for raw and cold Stomachs, but nourish little.
+
+
+20. Cucumber, _Cucumis_; tho' very cold and moist, the most approved
+_Sallet_ alone, or in Composition, of all the _Vinaigrets_, to sharpen
+the Appetite, and cool the Liver, [16]_&c._ if rightly prepar'd; that
+is, by rectifying the vulgar Mistake of altogether extracting the Juice,
+in which it should rather be soak'd: Nor ought it to be over _Oyl'd_,
+too much abating of its grateful _Acidity_, and _palling_ the Taste from
+a contrariety of Particles: Let them therefore be pared, and cut in
+thin Slices, with a _Clove_ or two of _Onion_ to correct the Crudity,
+macerated in the Juice, often turn'd and moderately drain'd. Others
+prepare them, by shaking the Slices between two Dishes, and dress them
+with very little _Oyl_, well beaten, and mingled with the Juice of
+_Limon, Orange_, or _Vinegar, Salt_ and _Pepper_. Some again, (and
+indeed the most approv'd) eat them as soon as they are cut, retaining
+their Liquor, which being exhausted (by the former Method) have nothing
+remaining in them to help the Concoction. Of old they [17]boil'd the
+_Cucumber_, and paring off the Rind, eat them with _Oyl, Vinegar_, and
+_Honey_; _Sugar_ not being so well known. Lastly, the _Pulp_ in Broth is
+greatly refreshing, and may be mingl'd in most _Sallets_, without the
+least damage, contrary to the common Opinion; it not being long, since
+_Cucumber_, however dress'd, was thought fit to be thrown away, being
+accounted little better than Poyson. _Tavernier_ tells us, that in
+the _Levant_, if a Child cry for something to Eat, they give it a
+raw _Cucumber_ instead of _Bread_. The young ones may be boil'd in
+White-Wine. The smaller sort (known by the name of _Gerckems_) muriated
+with the Seeds of _Dill_, and the _Mango_ Pickle are for the Winter.
+
+
+21. Daisy, _Buphthalmum_, Ox-Eye, or _Bellis-major_: The young _Roots_
+are frequently eaten by the _Spaniards_ and _Italians_ all the Spring
+till _June_.
+
+
+22. Dandelion, _Dens Leonis, Condrilla_: Macerated in several Waters,
+to extract the bitterness; tho' somewhat opening, is very wholsome, and
+little inferior to _Succory, Endive_, &c. The _French_ Country-People
+eat the Roots; and 'twas with this homely _Sallet_, the Good-Wife
+_Hecate_ entertain'd _Theseus_. See _Sowthistle_.
+
+
+23. Dock, _Oxylapathum_, or sharp-pointed Dock: Emollient, and tho'
+otherwise not for our _Sallet_, the _Roots_ brewed in _Ale_ or _Beer_,
+are excellent for the _Scorbute_.
+
+
+Earth-Nuts, _Bulbo-Castanum_; (found in divers places of _Surry_, near
+_Kingston_, and other parts) the Rind par'd off, are eaten crude by
+Rustics, with a little _Pepper_; but are best boil'd like other Roots,
+or in Pottage rather, and are sweet and nourishing.
+
+
+24. Elder, _Sambucus_; The Flowers infus'd in _Vinegar_, grateful both
+to the Stomach and Taste; attenuate thick and viscid Humours; and tho'
+the Leaves are somewhat rank of Smell, and so not commendable in
+_Sallet_; they are otherwise (as indeed is the intire Shrub) of the most
+sovereign Vertue; and the spring Buds and tender Leaves, excellently
+wholsome in Pottage at that Season of the Year. See _Flowers_.
+
+
+25. Endive, _Endivium, Intubum Sativum_; the largest, whitest, and
+tenderest Leaves best boil'd, and less crude. It is naturally Cold,
+profitable for hot Stomachs; _Incisive_ and opening Obstructions
+of the Liver: The curled is more delicate, being eaten alone, or in
+Composition, with the usual _Intinctus_: It is also excellent being
+boil'd; the middle part of the Blanch'd-Stalk separated, eats firm, and
+the ampler Leaves by many perferr'd before _Lettuce_. See _Succory_.
+
+
+Eschalot. See _Onions_.
+
+
+26. Fennel, _Foeniculum_: The sweetest of _Bolognia_: Aromatick,
+hot, and dry; expels Wind, sharpens the Sight, and recreates the Brain;
+especially the tender _Umbella_ and Seed-Pods. The Stalks are to be
+peel'd when young, and then dress'd like _Sellery_. The tender Tufts and
+Leaves emerging, being minc'd, are eaten alone with _Vinegar_, or _Oyl_,
+and _Pepper_, and to correct the colder Materials, enter properly into
+Composition. The _Italians_ eat the blanch'd Stalk (which they call
+_Cartucci_) all Winter long. There is a very small _Green-Worm_, which
+sometimes lodges in the Stemm of this Plant, which is to be taken out,
+as the _Red_ one in that of _Sellery_.
+
+
+27. Flowers, _Flores_; chiefly of the _Aromatick Esculents_ and
+Plants are preferrable, as generally endow'd with the Vertues of their
+_Simples_, in a more intense degree; and may therefore be eaten alone
+in their proper _Vehicles_, or Composition with other _Salleting_,
+sprinkl'd among them; But give a more palatable Relish, being Infus'd
+in _Vinegar_; Especially those of the _Clove-Gillyflower, Elder, Orange,
+Cowslip, Rosemary, Arch-Angel, Sage, Nasturtium Indicum_, &c. Some of
+them are Pickl'd, and divers of them make also very pleasant and wholsome
+_Theas_, as do likewise the Wild _Time, Bugloss, Mint_, &c.
+
+
+28. Garlick, _Allium_; dry towards Excess; and tho' both by _Spaniards_
+and _Italians_, and the more Southern People, familiarly eaten, with
+almost every thing, and esteem'd of such sigular Vertue to help
+Conception, and thought a Charm against all Infection and Poyson (by
+which it has obtain'd the Name of the _Country-man's Theriacle_) we yet
+think it more proper for our Northern Rustics, especially living in
+_Uliginous_ and moist places, or such as use the _Sea_: Whilst we
+absolutely forbid it entrance into our _Salleting_, by reason of its
+intolerable Rankness, and which made it so detested of old; that the
+eating of it was (as we read) part of the Punishment for such as had
+committed the horrid'st Crimes. To be sure, 'tis not for Ladies Palats,
+nor those who court them, farther than to permit a light touch on the
+Dish, with a _Clove_ thereof, much better supply'd by the gentler
+_Roccombo_.
+
+_Note_, That in _Spain_ they sometimes eat it boil'd, which taming its
+fierceness, turns it into Nourishment, or rather _Medicine_.
+
+
+Ginny-Pepper, _Capsicum_. See _Pepper_.
+
+
+29. Goats-beard, _Trago-pogon:_ The _Root_ is excellent even in
+_Sallet_, and very Nutritive, exceeding profitable for the Breast,
+and may be stew'd and dress'd as _Scorzonera_.
+
+
+30. Hops, _Lupulus_: Hot and moist, rather _Medicinal_, than fit for
+_Sallet_; the _Buds_ and young _Tendrels_ excepted, which may be eaten
+raw; but more conveniently being boil'd, and cold like _Asparagus_: They
+are _Diuretic_; depurate the Blood, and open Obstructions.
+
+
+31. Hyssop, _Hyssopus; Thymus Capitatus Creticus; Majoran,
+Mary-gold_, &c. as all hot, spicy _Aromatics_, (commonly growing in
+_Kitchin-Gardens_) are of Faculty to Comfort, and strengthen; prevalent
+against Melancoly and Phlegm; Plants, like these, going under the Names
+of _Pot Herbs_, are much more proper for _Broths_ and _Decoctions_, than
+the tender _Sallet_: Yet the _Tops_ and _Flowers_ reduc'd to Powder, are
+by some reserv'd for Strewings, upon the colder Ingredients;
+communicating no ungrateful Fragrancy.
+
+
+32. Jack-by-the-Hedge, _Alliaria_, or _Sauce-alone_; has many Medicinal
+Properties, and is eaten as other _Sallets_, especially by Country
+People, growing wild under their Banks and Hedges.
+
+
+33. Leeks, and _Cibbols, Porrum_; hot, and of Vertue Prolifick, since
+_Latona_, the Mother of _Appolo_ long'd after them: The _Welch_, who eat
+them much, are observ'd to be very fruitful: They are also friendly to
+the Lungs and Stomach, being sod in Milk; a few therefore of the slender
+and green Summities, a little shred, do not amiss in Composition. See
+_Onion_.
+
+
+34. Lettuce, _Lactuca_: Tho' by _Metaphor_ call'd [18]_Mortuorum Cibi_,
+(to say nothing of [19]_Adonis_ and his sad _Mistriss_) by reason of
+its _Soporiferous_ quality, ever was, and still continues the principal
+Foundation of the universal _Tribe_ of _Sallets_; which is to Cool and
+Refresh, besides its other Properties: And therefore in such high esteem
+with the Ancients; that divers of the _Valerian_ Family, dignify'd and
+enobled their Name with that of _Lactucinii_.
+
+It is indeed of Nature more cold and moist than any of the rest; yet
+less astringent, and so harmless that it may safely be eaten raw in
+Fevers; for it allays Heat, bridles Choler, extinguishes Thirst, excites
+Appetite, kindly Nourishes, and above all represses Vapours, conciliates
+Sleep, mitigates Pain; besides the effect it has upon the Morals,
+_Temperance_ and _Chastity_. Galen (whose beloved _Sallet_ it was)
+from its _pinguid, subdulcid_ and agreeable Nature, says it breeds the
+most laudable Blood. No marvel then that they were by the Ancients
+called _Sana_, by way of eminency, and so highly valu'd by the great
+[20]_Augustus_, that attributing his Recovery of a dangerous Sickness
+to them, 'tis reported, he erected a _Statue_, and built an _Altar_ to
+this noble Plant. And that the most abstemious and excellent Emperor
+[21]_Tacitus_ (spending almost nothing at his frugal Table in other
+Dainties) was yet so great a Friend to _Lettuce_, that he was us'd to
+say of his Prodigality, _Somnum se mercari illa sumptus effusione_.
+How it was celebrated by _Galen_ we have heard; how he us'd it he tells
+himself; namely, beginning with _Lettuce_ in his younger Days, and
+concluding with it when he grew old, and that to his great advantage. In
+a word, we meet with nothing among all our crude Materials and _Sallet_
+store, so proper to mingle with any of the rest, nor so wholsome
+to be eaten alone, or in Composition, moderately, and with the usual
+_Oxeloeum_ of _Vinegar, Pepper_, and _Oyl_, &c. which last does not
+so perfectly agree with the _Alphange_, to which the Juice of _Orange_,
+or _Limon_ and _Sugar_ is more desirable: _Aristoxenus_ is reported
+to have irrigated his _Lettuce_-Beds with an _Oinomelite_, or mixture
+of _Wine_ and _Honey_: And certainly 'tis not for nothing that our
+Garden-Lovers, and _Brothers of the Sallet_, have been so exceedingly
+Industrious to cultivate this Noble Plant, and multiply its _Species_;
+for to name a few in present use: We have the _Alphange_ of
+_Montpelier_, crisp and delicate; the _Arabic; Ambervelleres; Belgrade,
+Cabbage, Capuchin, Coss-Lettuce, Curl'd_; the _Genoa_ (lasting all
+the Winter) the _Imperial, Lambs_, or _Agnine_, and _Lobbs_ or
+_Lop-Lettuces_. The _French Minion_ a dwarf kind: The _Oak-Leaf,
+Passion, Roman, Shell_, and _Silesian_, hard and crimp (esteemed of
+the best and rarest) with divers more: And here let it be noted, that
+besides three or four sorts of this Plant, and some few of the rest,
+there was within our remembrance, rarely any other _Salleting_ serv'd up
+to the best Tables; with unblanch'd _Endive, Succory, Purselan_, (and
+indeed little other variety) _Sugar_ and _Vinegar_ being the constant
+_Vehicles_ (without _Oyl_) but now _Sugar_ is almost wholly banish'd
+from all, except the more effeminate Palates, as too much palling, and
+taking from the grateful _Acid_ now in use, tho' otherwise not totally
+to be reproved: _Lettuce_ boil'd and _Condited_ is sometimes spoken of.
+
+
+35. Limon, _Limonia, citrea mala_; exceedingly refreshing, _Cordial_,
+&c. The Pulp being blended with the Juice, secluding the over-sweet or
+bitter. See _Orange_.
+
+
+36. Mallow, _Malva_; the curl'd, emollient, and friendly to the
+_Ventricle_, and so rather Medicinal; yet may the Tops, well boil'd,
+be admitted, and the rest (tho' out of use at present) was taken by
+the Poets for all _Sallets_ in general. _Pythagoras_ held _Malvae folium
+Sanctisimum_; and we find _Epimenides_ in [22]Plato at his _Mallows_
+and _Asphodel_; and indeed it was of old the first Dish at Table:
+The _Romans_ had it also _in deliciis_, [23]_Malvae salubres corpori_,
+approved by [24]_Galen_ and [25]_Dioscorides_; namely the _Garden-Mallow_,
+by others the _Wild_; but I think both proper rather for the _Pot_, than
+_Sallet_. _Nonius_ supposes the tall _Rosea, Arborescent Holi-hocks_,
+that bears the broad Flower, for the best, and very [26]_Laxative_; but
+by reason of their clamminess and _Lentor_, banished from our _Sallet_,
+tho' by some commended and eaten with _Oyl_ and _Vinegar_, and some with
+_Butter_.
+
+
+Mercury, _Bonus Henricus_, English Mercury, or _Lapathum Unctuosum_. See
+_Blitum_.
+
+
+37. Melon, _Melo_; to have been reckon'd rather among _Fruits_; and tho'
+an usual Ingredient in our _Sallet_; yet for its transcendent delicacy
+and flavor, cooling and exhilarating Nature (if sweet, dry, weighty, and
+well-fed) not only superior all the _Gourd_-kind, but Paragon with the
+noblest Productions of the Garden. _Jos. Scaliger_ and _Casaubon_, think
+our _Melon_ unknown to the Ancients, (which others contradict) as yet
+under the name of _Cucumers_: But he who reads how artificially they
+were Cultivated, rais'd under Glasses, and expos'd to the hot Sun, (for
+_Tiberius_) cannot well doubt of their being the same with ours.
+
+There is also a _Winter-Melon_, large and with black Seeds, exceedingly
+Cooling, brought us from abroad, and the hotter Climates, where they
+drink _Water_ after eating _Melons_; but in the colder (after all
+dispute) _Wine_ is judg'd the better: That it has indeed by some been
+accus'd as apt to corrupt in the Stomach (as do all things else eaten
+in excess) is not deny'd: But a perfect good _Melon_ is certainly as
+harmless a Fruit as any whatsoever; and may safely be mingl'd with
+_Sallet_, in Pulp or Slices, or more properly eaten by it self, with
+a little _Salt_ and _Pepper_; for a _Melon_ which requires _Sugar_ to
+commend it, wants of Perfection. _Note_, That this Fruit was very rarely
+cultivated in _England_, so as to bring it to Maturity, till Sir _Geo.
+Gardner_ came out of _Spain_. I my self remembring, when an ordinary
+_Melon_ would have been sold for five or six Shillings. The small unripe
+Fruit, when the others are past, may be Pickl'd with _Mango_, and are
+very delicate.
+
+
+38. Mint, _Mentha_; the _Angustifolia Spicata_, Spear-Mint; dry and
+warm, very fragrant, a little press'd, is friendly to the weak Stomach,
+and powerful against all _Nervous_ Crudities: The gentler Tops of the
+_Orange-Mint_, enter well into our Composition, or are grateful alone
+(as are also the other sorts) with the Juice of _Orange_, and a little
+_Sugar_.
+
+
+39. Mushroms, _Fungi_; By the [27]Orator call'd _Terrae_, by _Porphyry
+Deorum filii_, without Seed (as produc'd by the Midwifry of _Autumnal_
+Thunder-Storms, portending the Mischief they cause) by the _French,
+Champignons_, with all the Species of the _Boletus_, &c. for being, as
+some hold, neither _Root, Herb, Flower_, nor _Fruit_, nor to be eaten
+crude; should be therefore banish'd entry into our _Sallet_, were I to
+order the Composition; however so highly contended for by many, as the
+very principal and top of all the rest; whilst I think them tolerable
+only (at least in this _Climate_) if being fresh and skilfully chosen,
+they are accommodated with the nicest Care and Circumspection; generally
+reported to have something malignant and noxious in them: Nor without
+cause; from the many sad Examples, frequent Mischiefs, and funest
+Accidents they have produc'd, not only to particular Persons, but whole
+Families: Exalted indeed they were to the second Course of the _Caesarian
+Tables_, with the noble Title [Greek: Broma theon], a Dainty fit for
+the _Gods_ alone; to whom they sent the Emperor [28]_Claudius_, as they
+have many since, to the other World. But he that reads how [29]_Seneca_
+deplores his lost Friend, that brave Commander _Annaeus Serenus_, and
+several other gallant Persons with him, who all of them perish'd at the
+same Repast; would be apt to ask with the [30]_Naturalist_ (speaking of
+this suspicious Dainty) _Quae voluptas tanta ancipitis cibi_? and who
+indeed would hazard it? So true is that of the Poet; He that eats
+_Mushroms_, many time _Nil amplius edit_, eats no more perhaps all his
+Life after. What other deterring _Epithets_ are given for our Caution,
+[Greek: Bare pnigoenta muketon], _heavy_ and _choaking_. (_Athenaeus_
+reporting of the Poet _Euripides's_, finding a Woman and her three
+Children strangl'd by eating of them) one would think sufficient
+warning.
+
+Among these comes in the _Fungus Reticularis_, to be found about
+_London_, as at _Fulham_ and other places; whilst at no small charge we
+send for them into _France_; as we also do for _Trufles_, _Pig-nuts_,
+and other subterraneous _Tubera_, which in _Italy_ they fry in Oyl,
+and eat with _Pepper_: They are commonly discovered by a _Nasute Swine_
+purposely brought up; being of a Chessnut Colour, and heady Smell,
+and not seldom found in _England_, particularly in a Park of my Lord
+_Cotton's_ at _Rushton_ or _Rusbery_ in _Northampton_-shire, and
+doubtless in other [31]places too were they sought after. How these
+rank and provocative Excrescences are to be [32]treated (of themselves
+insipid enough, and only famous for their kindly taking any Pickle or
+_Conditure_) that they may do the less Mischief we might here set down.
+But since there be so many ways of Dressing them, that I can incourage
+none to use them, for Reasons given (besides that they do not at all
+concern our safer and innocent _Sallet_ Furniture) I forbear it; and
+referr those who long after this beloved _Ragout_, and other
+_Voluptuaria Venena_ (as _Seneca_ calls them) to what our Learned Dr.
+_Lyster_[33] says of the many Venomous _Insects_ harbouring and
+corrupting in a new found-out Species of _Mushroms_ had lately in
+deliciis. Those, in the mean time, which are esteemed best, and less
+pernicious, (of which see the _Appendix_) are such as rise in rich,
+airy, and dry [34]Pasture-Grounds; growing on the Staff or _Pedicule_ of
+about an Inch thick and high; moderately Swelling (_Target_-like) round
+and firm, being underneath of a pale saffronish hue, curiously radiated
+in parallel Lines and Edges, which becoming either Yellow, Orange, or
+Black, are to be rejected: But besides what the Harvest-Months produce,
+they are likewise rais'd [35]Artificially; as at _Naples_ in their
+Wine-Cellars, upon an heap of rank Earth, heaped upon a certain supposed
+_Stone_, but in truth, (as the curious and noble [36]_Peiresky_ tells
+us, he found to be) nothing but an heap of old _Fungus_'s, reduc'd and
+compacted to a stony hardness, upon which they lay Earth, and sprinkle
+it with warm Water, in which _Mushroms_ have been steeped. And in
+_France_, by making an hot Bed of _Asses_-Dung, and when the heat is
+in Temper, watering it (as above) well impregnated with the Parings
+and Offals of refuse _Fungus_'s; and such a Bed will last two or three
+Years, and sometimes our common _Melon_-Beds afford them, besides other
+Experiments.
+
+
+40. Mustard, _Sinapi_; exceeding hot and _mordicant_, not only in the
+Seed but Leaf also; especially in _Seedling_ young Plants, like those of
+_Radishes_ (newly peeping out of the Bed) is of incomparable effect to
+quicken and revive the Spirits; strengthening the Memory, expelling
+heaviness, preventing the Vertiginous Palsie, and is a laudable
+_Cephalick_. Besides it is an approv'd _Antiscorbutick_; aids
+Concoction, cuts and dissipates Phlegmatick Humours. In short, 'tis the
+most noble _Embamma_, and so necessary an Ingredient to all cold and raw
+_Salleting_, that it is very rarely, if at all, to be left out. In
+_Italy_ in making _Mustard_, they mingle _Limon_ and _Orange-Peel_, with
+the Seeds. How the best is made, see hereafter.
+
+
+_Nasturtium Indicum_. See _Cresses_.
+
+
+41. Nettles, _Urtica_; Hot, dry, _Diuretic, Solvent_; purifies the
+Blood: The Buds, and very tender _Cimae_, a little bruised, are by some
+eaten raw, by others boil'd, especially in _Spring-Pottage_, with other
+Herbs.
+
+42. Onion, _Cepa_, _Porrum_; the best are such as are brought us out of
+_Spain_, whence they of St. _Omers_ had them, and some that have weigh'd
+eight Pounds. Choose therefore the large, round, white, and thin Skin'd.
+Being eaten crude and alone with _Oyl_, _Vinegar_, and _Pepper_, we own
+them in _Sallet_, not so hot as _Garlick_, nor at all so rank: Boil'd,
+they give a kindly relish; raise Appetite, corroborate the Stomach, cut
+Phlegm, and profit the _Asthmatical_: But eaten in excess, are said to
+offend the Head and Eyes, unless _Edulcorated_ with a gentle maceration.
+In the mean time, as to their being noxious to the Sight, is imputable
+only to the Vapour rising from the raw Onion, when peeled, which some
+commend for its purging and quickning that Sense. How they are us'd in
+Pottage, boil'd in Milk, stew'd, &c. concerns the Kitchin. In our cold
+_Sallet_ we supply them with the _Porrum Sectile_, Tops of _Leeks_, and
+_Eschalots_ (_Ascalonia_) of gust more exalted, yet not to the degree of
+_Garlick_. Or (by what of later use is much preferr'd) with a _Seed_ or
+two of _Raccombo_, of a yet milder and delicate nature, which by rubbing
+the Dish only, imparts its Vertue agreeably enough. In _Italy_ they
+frequently make a _Sallet_ of _Scalions_, _Cives_, and _Chibbols_ only
+season'd with _Oyl_ and _Pepper_; and an honest laborious Country-man,
+with good _Bread_, _Salt_, and a little _Parsley_, will make a contented
+Meal with a roasted _Onion_. How this noble _Bulb_ was deified in
+[37]_Egypt_ we are told, and that whilst they were building the
+_Pyramids_, there was spent in this Root [38]_Ninety Tun_ of _Gold_
+among the Workmen. So lushious and tempting it seems they were, that as
+whole Nations have subsisted on them alone; so the _Israelites_ were
+ready to return to _Slavery_ and _Brick-making_ for the love of them.
+Indeed _Hecamedes_ we find presents them to _Patroclus_, in _Homer_, as
+a _Regalo_; But certainly we are either mistaken in the _Species_ (which
+some will have to be _Melons_) or use _Poetick_ Licence, when we so
+highly magnify them.
+
+
+43. Orach, _Atriplex_: Is cooling, allays the _Pituit_ Humor: Being set
+over the Fire, neither _this_, nor _Lettuce_, needs any other Water than
+their own moisture to boil them in, without Expression: The tender
+Leaves are mingl'd with other cold _Salleting_; but 'tis better in
+Pottage. See _Blitum_.
+
+
+44. Orange, _Arantiae_ (_Malum aureum_) Moderately dry, cooling,
+and incisive; sharpens Appetite, exceedingly refreshes and resists
+Putrefaction: We speak of the _Sub acid_; the sweet and bitter _Orange_
+being of no use in our _Sallet_. The _Limon_ is somewhat more acute,
+cooling and extinguishing Thirst; of all the [Greek: Oxubapha] the best
+_succedaneum_ to _Vinegar_. The very Spoils and Rinds of _Orange_ and
+_Limon_ being shred and sprinkl'd among the other Herbs, correct the
+Acrimony. But they are the tender _Seedlings_ from the _Hot-Bed_, which
+impart an _Aromatic_ exceedingly grateful to the Stomach. _Vide_ Limon.
+
+
+45. Parsnep, _Pastinaca_, Carrot: first boil'd, being cold, is of it
+self a Winter-_Sallet_, eaten with _Oyl_, _Vinegar_, &c. and having
+something of Spicy, is by some, thought more nourishing than the
+_Turnep_.
+
+
+46. Pease, _Pisum_: the Pod of the _Sugar-Pease_, when first beginning
+to appear, with the _Husk_ and _Tendrels_, affording a pretty _Acid_,
+enter into the Composition, as do those of _Hops_ and the _Vine_.
+
+
+47. Peper, _Piper_, hot and dry in a high degree; of approv'd
+Vertue against all flatulency proceeding from cold and phlegmatic
+Constitutions, and generally all Crudities whatsoever; and therefore for
+being of universal use to correct and temper the cooler Herbs, and such
+as abound in moisture; It is a never to be omitted Ingredient of our
+_Sallets_; provided it be not too minutely beaten (as oft we find it)
+to an almost impalpable Dust, which is very pernicious and frequently
+adheres and sticks in the folds of the Stomach, where, instead of
+promoting Concoction, it often causes a _Cardialgium_, and fires the
+Blood: It should therefore be grosly contus'd only.
+
+_Indian Capsicum_, superlatively hot and burning, is yet by the
+_Africans_ eaten with _Salt_ and _Vinegar_ by it self, as an usual
+Condiment; but wou'd be of dangerous consequence with us; being so much
+more of an acrimonious and terribly biting quality, which by Art and
+Mixture is notwithstanding render'd not only safe, but very agreeable
+in our _Sallet_.
+
+Take the _Pods_, and dry them well in a Pan; and when they are become
+sufficiently hard, cut them into small pieces, and stamp 'em in a Mortar
+to dust: To each Ounce of which add a Pound of _Wheat-flour_, fermented
+with a little _Levain_: Kneed and make them into Cakes or Loaves cut
+long-wise, in shape of _Naples-Biscuit_. These Re-bake a second time,
+till they are Stone-hard: Pound them again as before, and ferce it
+through a fine Sieve, for a very proper Seasoning, instead of vulgar
+_Peper_. The Mordicancy thus allay'd, be sure to make the Mortar very
+clean, after having beaten _Indian Capsicum_, before you stamp any thing
+in it else. The green Husks, or first peeping Buds of the _Walnut-Tree_,
+dry'd to Powder, serve for _Peper_ in some places, and so do
+_Myrtle-berries_.
+
+
+48. Persley, _Petroselinum_, or _Apium hortense_; being hot and dry,
+opens Obstructions, is very _Diuretic_, yet nourishing, _edulcorated_
+in shifted warm Water (the Roots especially) but of less Vertue than
+_Alexanders_; nor so convenient in our crude _Sallet_, as when decocted
+on a Medicinal Account. Some few tops of the tender Leaves may yet be
+admitted; tho' it was of old, we read, never brought to the Table at
+all, as sacred to _Oblivium_ and the _Defunct_. In the mean time, there
+being nothing more proper for Stuffing, (_Farces_) and other _Sauces_,
+we consign it to the _Olitories_. _Note_, that Persley is not so hurtful
+to the Eyes as is reported. See _Sellery_.
+
+
+49. Pimpernel, _Pimpinella_; eaten by the _French_ and _Italians_, is
+our common _Burnet_; of so chearing and exhilarating a quality, and so
+generally commended, as (giving it admittance into all _Sallets_) 'tis
+pass'd into a Proverb:
+
+  _L'Insalata non e buon, ne bella_
+  _Ove non e la Pimpinella_.
+
+
+But a fresh sprig in _Wine_, recommends it to us as its most genuine
+Element.
+
+
+50. Purslain, _Portulaca_; especially the _Golden_ whilst tender, next
+the Seed-leaves, with the young Stalks, being eminently moist and
+cooling, quickens Appetite, asswages Thirst, and is very profitable
+for hot and _Bilious_ Tempers, as well as _Sanguine_, and generally
+entertain'd in all our _Sallets_, mingled with the hotter Herbs: Tis
+likewise familiarly eaten alone with _Oyl_ and _Vinegar_; but with
+moderation, as having been sometimes found to corrupt in the Stomach,
+which being _Pickl'd_ 'tis not so apt to do. Some eat it cold, after
+it has been boil'd, which Dr. _Muffet_ would have in _Wine_, for
+Nourishment.
+
+The Shrub _Halimus_, is a sort of _Sea-Purslain_: The newly peeping
+Leaves (tho' rarely us'd) afford a no unpleasant _Acidule_, even during
+winter, if it prove not too severe.
+
+_Purslain_ is accus'd for being hurtful to the _Teeth_, if too much
+eaten.
+
+
+51. Radish, _Raphanus_. Albeit rather Medicinal, than so commendably
+accompanying our _Sallets_ (wherein they often slice the larger Roots)
+are much inferior to the young Seedling Leaves and Roots; raised on the
+[39]Monthly _Hot-Bed_, almost the whole Year round, affording a very
+grateful mordacity, and sufficiently attempers the cooler Ingredients:
+The bigger Roots (so much desir'd) should be such as being transparent,
+eat short and quick, without stringiness, and not too biting. These are
+eaten alone with _Salt_ only, as carrying their _Peper_ in them; and
+were indeed by _Dioscorides_ and _Pliny_ celebrated above all Roots
+whatsoever; insomuch as in the _Delphic_ Temple, there was _Raphanus ex
+auro dicatus_, a Radish of solid Gold; and 'tis said of _Moschius_, that
+he wrote a whole Volume in their praise. Notwithstanding all which, I am
+sure, the great [40]_Hippocrates_ utterly condemns them, as _Vitiosoe,
+innatantes ac aegre concoctiles_. And the _Naturalist_ calls it _Cibus
+Illiberalis_, fitter for _Rustics_ than _Gentlemens_ Tables. And indeed
+(besides that they decay the Teeth) experience tells us, that as the
+Prince of _Physicians_ writes, It is hard of Digestion, _Inimicous_ to
+the Stomach, causing nauseous Eructations, and sometimes Vomiting, tho'
+otherwise _Diuretic_, and thought to repel the Vapours of _Wine_, when
+the _Wits_ were at their genial _Club_. _Dioscorides_ and [41]_Galen_
+differ about their Eating; One prescribes it before Meals, the latter
+for after. Some macerate the young Roots in warm milk, to render them
+more _Nourishing_.
+
+There is a _Raphanus rusticanus_, the _Spanish_ black _Horse Radish_,
+of a hotter quality, and not so friendly to the Head; but a notable
+_Antiscorbutic_, which may be eaten all the Winter, and on that account
+an excellent Ingredient in the Composition of _Mustard_; as are also
+the thin Shavings, mingled with our cold Herbs. And now before I have
+done with this Root, for an excellent and universal _Condiment_. Take
+_Horse-Radish_, whilst newly drawn out of the Earth, otherwise laid to
+steep in Water a competent time; then _grate_ it on a _Grater_ which has
+no bottom, that so it may pass thro', like a Mucilage, into a Dish of
+Earthen Ware: This temper'd with _Vinegar_, in which a little _Sugar_
+has been dissolv'd, you have a _Sauce_ supplying _Mustard_ to the
+_Sallet_, and serving likewise for any Dish besides.
+
+
+52. Rampion, _Rapunculus_, or the _Esculent Campanula_: The tender Roots
+eaten in the Spring, like those of _Radishes_, but much more Nourishing.
+
+
+53. Rocket, _Eruca Spanish_; hot and dry, to be qualified with
+_Lettuce_, _Purcelain_, and the rest, &c. See _Tarragon_.
+
+
+Roccombo. See _Onions_.
+
+
+54. Rosemary, _Rosmarinus_; Soverainly _Cephalic_, and for the _Memory_,
+_Sight_, and _Nerves_, incomparable: And tho' not us'd in the Leaf with
+our _Sallet_ furniture, yet the _Flowers_, a little bitter, are always
+welcome in _Vinegar_; but above all, a fresh Sprig or two in a Glass of
+_Wine_. See _Flowers_.
+
+
+55. Sage, _Salvia_; hot and dry. The tops of the _Red_, well pick'd
+and wash'd (being often defil'd with Venomous Slime, and almost
+imperceptible _Insects_) with the _Flowers_, retain all the noble
+Properties of the other hot Plants; more especially for the _Head_,
+_Memory_, _Eyes_, and all _Paralytical_ Affections. In short, 'tis
+a Plant endu'd with so many and wonderful Properties, as that the
+assiduous use of it is said to render Men _Immortal_: We cannot
+therefore but allow the tender _Summities_ of the young Leaves; but
+principally the _Flowers_ in our cold _Sallet_; yet so as not to
+domineer.
+
+
+Salsifax, _Scorzonera_. See _Vipergrass_.
+
+
+56. Sampier, _Crithmum_: That growing on the Sea-Cliffs (as about
+_Dover_, &c.) not only _Pickl'd_, but crude and cold, when young and
+tender (and such as we may Cultivate, and have in our _Kitchin-Gardens_,
+almost the Year round) is in my Opinion, for its _Aromatic_, and other
+excellent Vertues and Effects against the _Spleen_, Cleansing the
+Passages, sharpning Appetite, &c. so far preferrable to most of our
+hotter Herbs, and _Sallet_-Ingredients, that I have long wonder'd,
+it has not been long since propagated in the _Potagere_, as it is in
+_France_; from whence I have often receiv'd the Seeds, which have
+prosper'd better, and more kindly with me, than what comes from our own
+Coasts: It does not indeed _Pickle_ so well, as being of a more tender
+Stalk and Leaf: But in all other respects for composing _Sallets_,
+it has nothing like it.
+
+
+57. Scalions, _Ascalonia_, _Cepae_; The _French_ call them _Appetites_,
+which it notably quickens and stirs up: Corrects Crudities, and promotes
+Concoction. The _Italians_ steep them in Water, mince, and eat them cold
+with _Oyl_, _Vinegar_, _Salt_, &c.
+
+
+58. Scurvy-grass, _Cochlearia_, of the Garden, but especially that
+of the Sea, is sharp, biting, and hot; of Nature like _Nasturtium_,
+prevalent in the _Scorbute_. A few of the tender Leaves may be admitted
+in our Composition. See _Nasturtium Indicum_.
+
+
+59. Sellery, _Apium Italicum_, (and of the _Petroseline_ Family)
+was formerly a stranger with us (nor very long since in _Italy_) is
+an hot and more generous sort of _Macedonian Persley_, or _Smallage_.
+The tender Leaves of the _Blancht_ Stalk do well in our _Sallet_, as
+likewise the slices of the whiten'd Stems, which being crimp and short,
+first peel'd and slit long wise, are eaten with _Oyl_, _Vinegar_,
+_Salt_, and _Peper_; and for its high and grateful Taste, is ever plac'd
+in the middle of the _Grand Sallet_, at our Great Mens Tables, and
+_Praetors_ Feasts, as the Grace of the whole Board. _Caution_ is to be
+given of a small red _Worm_, often lurking in these Stalks, as does the
+green in _Fennil_.
+
+
+Shallots. See _Onion_.
+
+
+60. Skirrets, _Sisarum_; hot and moist, corroborating, and good for the
+Stomach, exceedingly nourishing, wholsome and delicate; of all the
+_Root-kind_, not subject to be Windy, and so valued by the Emperor
+_Tiberius_, that he accepted them for Tribute.
+
+This excellent Root is seldom eaten raw; but being boil'd, stew'd,
+roasted under the Embers, bak'd in Pies, whole, sliced, or in pulp, is
+very acceptable to all Palates. 'Tis reported they were heretofore
+something bitter; See what Culture and Education effects!
+
+
+61. Sorrel, _Acetosa_: of which there are divers kinds. The _French
+Acetocella_, with the round Leaf, growing plentifully in the _North_
+of _England_; _Roman Oxalis_; the broad _German_, &c. but the best
+is of _Green-Land:_ by nature cold, Abstersive, Acid, sharpning
+Appetite, asswages Heat, cools the Liver, strengthens the Heart; is
+an _Antiscorbutic_, resisting Putrefaction, and imparting so grateful
+a quickness to the rest, as supplies the want of _Orange_, _Limon_,
+and other _Omphacia_, and therefore never to be excluded. Vide
+_Wood-Sorrel_.
+
+
+62. Sow-thistle, _Sonchus_; of the _Intybus_-kind. _Galen_ was us'd
+to eat it as _Lettuce_; exceedingly welcome to the late _Morocco._
+Ambassador and his Retinue.
+
+
+63. Sparagus, _Asparagus_ (_ab Asperitate_) temperately hot, and moist;
+_Cordial_, _Diuretic_, easie of Digestion, and next to _Flesh_, nothing
+more nourishing, as _Sim. Sethius_, an excellent Physician holds. They
+are sometimes, but very seldom, eaten raw with _Oyl_, and _Vinegar_; but
+with more delicacy (the bitterness first exhausted) being so speedily
+boil'd, as not to lose the _verdure_ and agreeable tenderness; which is
+done by letting the Water boil, before you put them in. I do not esteem
+the _Dutch_ great and larger sort (especially rais'd by the rankness of
+the Beds) so sweet and agreeable, as those of a moderate size.
+
+
+64. Spinach, _Spinachia_: of old not us'd in _Sallets_, and the oftner
+kept out the better; I speak of the _crude_: But being boil'd to a
+_Pult_, and without other Water than its own moisture, is a most
+excellent Condiment with _Butter_, _Vinegar_, or _Limon_, for almost
+all sorts of boil'd Flesh, and may accompany a Sick Man's Diet. 'Tis
+_Laxative_ and _Emollient_, and therefore profitable for the Aged, and
+(tho' by original a _Spaniard_) may be had at almost any Season, and
+in all places.
+
+
+Stone-Crop, _Sedum Minus_. See _Trick-Madame_.
+
+
+65. Succory, _Cichorium_, an _Intube_; erratic and wild, with a narrow
+dark Leaf, different from the _Sative_, tho' probably by culture only;
+and for being very bitter, a little _edulcorated_ with _Sugar_ and
+_Vinegar_, is by some eaten in the Summer, and more grateful to the
+Stomach than the Palate. See _Endive_.
+
+
+66. Tansy, _Tanacetum_; hot and cleansing; but in regard of its
+domineering relish, sparingly mixt with our cold _Sallet_, and much
+fitter (tho' in very small quantity) for the Pan, being qualified with
+the Juices of other fresh Herbs, _Spinach_, _Green Corn_, _Violet_,
+_Primrose-Leaves_, &c. at entrance of the Spring, and then fried
+brownish, is eaten hot with the Juice of _Orange_ and _Sugar_, as one
+of the most agreeable of all the boil'd _Herbaceous_ Dishes.
+
+
+67. Tarragon, _Draco Herba_, of _Spanish_ Extraction; hot and spicy: The
+Tops and young Shoots, like those of _Rochet_, never to be secluded our
+Composition, especially where there is much _Lettuce_. 'Tis highly
+cordial and friendly to the Head, Heart, Liver, correcting the weakness
+of the Ventricle, _&c._
+
+
+68. Thistle, _Carduus Mariae_; our Lady's milky or dappl'd Thistle,
+disarm'd of its Prickles, is worth esteem: The young Stalk about _May_,
+being peel'd and soak'd in Water, to extract the bitterness, boil'd or
+raw, is a very wholsome _Sallet_, eaten with _Oyl_, _Salt_, and _Peper_;
+some eat them sodden in proper Broath, or bak'd in Pies, like the
+_Artichoak_; but the tender Stalk boil'd or fry'd, some preferr; both
+Nourishing and Restorative.
+
+
+69. Trick-Madame, _Sedum minus_, Stone-Crop; is cooling and moist,
+grateful to the Stomach. The _Cimata_ and Tops, when young and tender,
+dress'd as _Purselane_, is a frequent Ingredient in our cold _Sallet_.
+
+
+70. Turnep, _Rapum_; moderately hot and moist: _Napus_; the long _Navet_
+is certainly the most delicate of them, and best Nourishing. _Pliny_
+speaks of no fewer than six sorts, and of several Colours; some of which
+were suspected to be artificially tinged. But with us, the yellow is
+preferr'd; by others the red _Bohemian_. But of whatever kind, being
+sown upon the _Hot-bed_, and no bigger than seedling _Radish_, they do
+excellently in Composition; as do also the Stalks of the common
+_Turnep_, when first beginning to Bud.
+
+And here should not be forgotten, that wholsome, as well as agreeable
+sort of _Bread_, we are [42]taught to make; and of which we have eaten
+at the greatest Persons Tables, hardly to be distinguish'd from the best
+of _Wheat_.
+
+Let the _Turneps_ first be peel'd, and boil'd in Water till soft and
+tender; then strongly pressing out the Juice, mix them together, and
+when dry (beaten or pounded very fine) with their weight of Wheat-Meal,
+season it as you do other _Bread_, and knead it up; then letting the
+Dough remain a little to _ferment_, fashion the Paste into Loaves, and
+bake it like common Bread.
+
+Some roast _Turneps_ in a Paper under the Embers, and eat them with
+_Sugar_ and _Butter_.
+
+
+71. Vine, _Vitis_, the _Capreols_, _Tendrels_, and _Claspers_ (like
+those of the _Hop_, &c.) whilst very young, have an agreeable _Acid_,
+which may be eaten alone, or with other _Sallet_.
+
+
+72. Viper-grass, _Tragopogon_, _Scorzonera_, _Salsifex_, &c. tho'
+Medicinal, and excellent against the _Palpitation of the Heart_,
+_Faintings_, _Obstruction of the Bowels_, &c. are besides a very sweet
+and pleasant _Sallet_; being laid to soak out the bitterness, then
+peel'd, may be eaten raw, or _Condited_; but best of all stew'd with
+_Marrow_, _Spice_, _Wine_, &c. as _Artichoak_, _Skirrets_, &c. sliced or
+whole. They likewise may bake, fry, or boil them; a more excellent Root
+there is hardly growing.
+
+
+73. Wood-Sorrel, _Trifolium acetosum_, or _Alleluja_, of the nature of
+other _Sorrels_.
+
+
+To all which might we add sundry more, formerly had in _deliciis_,
+since grown _obsolete_ or quite neglected with us: As among the noblest
+_Bulbs_, that of the _Tulip_; a Root of which has been valued not to
+eat, but for the _Flower_ (and yet eaten by mistake) at more than an
+hundred Pounds. The young fresh _Bulbs_ are sweet and high of taste.
+
+The _Asphodil_ or _Daffodil_; a _Sallet_ so rare in _Hesiod's_ Days,
+that _Lobel_ thinks it the _Parsnep_, tho' not at all like it; however
+it was (with the _Mallow_) taken anciently for any _Edule_-Root.
+
+The _Ornithogalons_ roasted, as they do _Chestnuts_, are eaten by the
+_Italians_, the wild yellow especially, with _Oyl_, _Vinegar_, and
+_Peper_. And so the small _tuberous_ Roots of _Gramen Amygdalosum_;
+which they also roast, and make an _Emulsion_ of, to use in Broaths
+as a great Restorative. The _Oxylapathum_, us'd of old; in the time of
+_Galen_ was eaten frequently. As also _Dracontium_, with the Mordicant
+_Arum Theophrasti_, which _Dodonaeus_ teaches how to Dress. Nay, divers
+of the _Satyrions_, which some condited with _Sugar_, others boil'd in
+Milk for a great Nourisher, now discarded. But what think we of the
+_Cicuta_, which there are who reckon among _Sallet_ Herbs? But whatever
+it is in any other Country, 'tis certainly Mortiferous in ours. To these
+add the _Viola Matronalis_, _Radix Lunaria_, &c. nay, the _Green Poppy_,
+by most accounted among the deadly Poysons: How cautious then ought our
+_Sallet_-Gatherers to be, in reading ancient Authors; lest they happen
+to be impos'd on, where they treat of Plants, that are familiarly eaten
+in other Countries, and among other Nations and People of more robust
+and strong constitutions? bessides the hazard of being mistaken in the
+Names of divers _Simples_, not as yet fully agreed upon among the
+Learned in _Botany_.
+
+There are bessides several remaining, which tho' _Abdicated_ here
+with us, find Entertainment still in Foreign Countries: As the large
+_Heliotrope_ and Sun-flower (e're it comes to expand, and shew its
+golden Face) which being dress'd as the _Artichoak_, is eaten for a
+dainty. This I add as a new Discovery. I once made _Macaroons_ with the
+ripe blanch'd Seeds, but the _Turpentine_ did so domineer over all, that
+it did not answer expectation. The _Radix Personata_ mounting with their
+young Heads, _Lysimachia siliquosa glabra minor_, when fresh and tender,
+begins to come into the _Sallet_-Tribe. The pale whiter _Popy_, is eaten
+by the _Genouese_. By the _Spaniards_, the tops of _Wormwood_ with _Oyl_
+alone, and without so much as _Bread_; profitable indeed to the Stomach,
+but offensive to the Head; As is also _Coriander_ and _Rue_, which
+_Galen_ was accustom'd to eat raw, and by it self, with _Oyl_ and
+_Salt_, as exceedingly grateful, as well as wholsome, and of great
+vertue against Infection. _Pliny_, I remember, reports it to be of such
+effect for the Preservation of _Sight_; that the _Painters_ of his Time,
+us'd to devour a great quantity of it. And it is still by the _Italians_
+frequently mingled among their _Sallets_. The _Lapatha Personata_
+(common _Burdock_) comes now and then to the best Tables, about _April_,
+and when young, before the _Burrs_ and _Clots_ appear, being strip'd,
+and the bitterness soaked out, treated as the _Chardoon_, is eaten in
+_Poiverade_; Some also boil them. More might here be reckon'd up, but
+these may suffice; since as we find some are left off, and gone out, so
+others be introduc'd and come in their room, and that in much greater
+Plenty and Variety, than was ever known by our Ancestors. The _Cucumber_
+it self, now so universally eaten, being accounted little better than
+_Poyson_, even within our Memory, as already noted.
+
+To conclude, and after all that has been said of Plants and _Salleting_,
+formerly in great esteem, (but since obsolete and quite rejected); What
+if the exalted Juice of the ancient _Silphium_ should come in, and
+challenge the Precedency? It is a [43]Plant formerly so highly priz'd,
+and rare for the richness of its Taste and other Vertues; that as it was
+dedicated to _Apollo_, and hung up in his Temple at _Delphi_; So we read
+of one single Root brought to the Emperor _Nero_ for an extraordinary
+Present; and the Drug so esteem'd, that the _Romans_ had long before
+amass'd a quantity of it, and kept it in the Treasury, till _Julius
+Caesar_ rob'd it, and took this away, as a thing of mighty value: In
+a word, it was of that Account; that as a sacred Plant, those of the
+_Cyrenaic Africa_, honour'd the very Figure of it, by stamping it on
+the Reverse of their [44]Coin; and when they would commend a thing for
+its worth to the Skies, [Greek: Bat-ou silphion], grew into a Proverb:
+_Battus_ having been the Founder of the City _Cyrene_, near which it
+only grew. 'Tis indeed contested among the Learned _Botanosophists_,
+whether this Plant was not the same with _Laserpitium_, and the Laser it
+yields, the odoriferous [45]_Benzoin_? But doubtless had we the true and
+genuine _Silphium_ (for it appears to have been often sophisticated, and
+a spurious sort brought into _Italy_) it would soon recover its pristine
+Reputation, and that it was not celebrated so for nothing extraordinary;
+since bessides its Medicinal Vertue; it was a wonderful Corroborater of
+the Stomach, a Restorer of lost Appetite, and Masculine Vigour, _&c._
+and that they made use of it almost in every thing they eat.
+
+But should we now really tell the World, that this precious Juice is,
+by many, thought to be no other than the [46]_Faetid Assa_ our nicer
+_Sallet-Eaters_ (who yet bestow as odious an Epithet on the vulgar
+_Garlick_) would cry out upon it as intolerable, and perhaps hardly
+believe it: But as _Aristophanes_ has brought it in, and sufficiently
+describ'd it; so the _Scholiast_ upon the place, puts it out of
+Controversy: And that they made use both of the _Leaves_, _Stalk_, (and
+_Extract_ especially) as we now do _Garlick_, and other _Hautgouts_ as
+nauseous altogether. In the mean time, _Garcius_, _Bontius_, and others,
+assure us, that the _Indians_ at this day universally sauce their
+Viands with it; and the _Bramins_ (who eat no Flesh at all) inrich their
+_Sallets_, by constantly rubbing the Dishes with it. Nor are some of
+our own skilful _Cooks_ Ingnorant, how to condite and use it, with
+the Applause of those, who, ignorant of the Secret, have admir'd the
+richness of the Gust it has imparted, when it has been substituted
+instead of all our _Cipollati_, and other seasonings of that Nature.
+
+And thus have we done with the various _Species_ of all such _Esculents_
+as may properly enter the Composition of our _Acetaria_, and cold
+_Sallet_. And if I have briefly touch'd upon their Natures, Degrees,
+and _primary Qualities_, which _Intend_ or _Remit_, as to the Scale of
+_Heat_, _Cold_, _Driness_, _Moisture_, &c. (which is to be understood
+according to the different Texture of their _component Particles_) it
+has not been without what I thought necessary for the Instruction of
+the _Gatherer_, and _Sallet-Dresser_; how he ought to choose, sort,
+and mingle his Materials and Ingredients together.
+
+What Care and Circumspection should attend the choice and collection of
+_Sallet_ Herbs, has been partly shew'd. I can therefore, by no means,
+approve of that extravagant Fancy of some, who tell us, that a _Fool_
+is as fit to be the _Gatherer_ of a _Sallet_ as a _Wiser_ Man. Because,
+say they, one can hardly choose amiss, provided the Plants be green,
+young, and tender, where-ever they meet with them: But sad experience
+shews, how many fatal Mistakes have been committed by those who took the
+deadly _Cicutae_, _Hemlocks_, _Aconits_, &c. for Garden _Persley_, and
+_Parsneps_; the _Myrrhis Sylvestris_, or _Cow-Weed_, for _Chaerophilum_,
+(_Chervil_) _Thapsia_ for _Fennel_; the wild _Chondrilla_ for _Succory_;
+_Dogs-Mercury_ instead of _Spinach_: _Papaver Corniculatum Luteum_, and
+horn'd _Poppy_ for _Eringo_; _Oenanthe aquatica_ for the _Palustral
+Apium_, and a world more, whose dire effects have been many times sudden
+Death, and the cause of Mortal Accidents to those who have eaten of them
+unwittingly: But supposing some of those wild and unknown Plants should
+not prove so _deleterious_ and [47]unwholsome; yet may others of them
+annoy the _Head_, _Brain_, and _Genus Nervosum_, weaken the _Eyes_,
+offend the _Stomach_, affect the _Liver_, torment the _Bowels_, and
+discover their malignity in dangerous and dreadful _Symptoms_. And
+therefore such _Plants_ as are rather _Medicinal_ than _Nourishing_ and
+_Refreshing_, are studiously to be rejected. So highly necessary it is,
+that what we sometimes find in _old Books_ concerning _Edules_ of other
+Countries and Climates (frequently call'd by the Names of such as are
+wholsome in ours, and among us) mislead not the unskilful Gatherer;
+to prevent which we read of divers _Popes_ and _Emperors_, that had
+sometimes Learned _Physicians_ for their _Master-Cooks_. I cannot
+therefore but exceedingly approve of that charitable Advice of Mr. _Ray_
+[48](_Transact. Num._ 238.) who thinks it the Interest of Mankind, that
+all Persons should be caution'd of advent'ring upon unknown Herbs and
+Plants to their Prejudice: Of such, I say, with our excellent [49]_Poet_
+(a little chang'd)
+
+  _Happy from such conceal'd, if still do lie_,
+  _Of Roots and Herbs the_ unwholsome _Luxury_.
+
+
+The Illustrious and Learned _Columna_ has, by observing what
+[50]_Insects_ did usually feed on, make Conjectures of the Nature of the
+Plants. But I should not so readily adventure upon it on that account,
+as to its wholsomness: For tho' indeed one may safely eat of a _Peach_
+or _Abricot_, after a _Snail_ has been Taster, I question whether it
+might be so of all other Fruits and Herbs attack'd by other _Insects_:
+Nor would one conclude, the _Hyoscyamus_ harmless, because the _Cimex_
+feeds upon it, as the Learned Dr. _Lyster_ has discover'd. Notice should
+therefore be taken what _Eggs_ of _Insects_ are found adhering to the
+Leaves of _Sallet-Herbs_, and frequently cleave so firmly to them, as
+not easily to be wash'd off, and so not being taken notice of, passing
+for accidental and harmless Spots only, may yet produce very ill
+effects.
+
+_Grillus_, who according to the Doctrine of _Transmigration_ (as
+_Plutarch_ tells us) had, in his turn, been a _Beast_; discourses how
+much better he fed, and liv'd, than when he was turn'd to _Man_ again,
+as knowing then, what Plants were best and most proper for him: Whilst
+Men, _Sarcophagists_ (Flesh-Eaters) in all this time were yet to seek.
+And 'tis indeed very evident, that Cattel, and other [Greek: panphaga],
+and _herbaceous_ Animals which feed on Plants, are directed by their
+Smell, and accordingly make election of their Food: But Men (bessides
+the _Smell_ and _Taste_) have, or should have, _Reason_, _Experience_,
+and the Aids of _Natural Philosophy_ to be their Guides in this Matter.
+We have heard _of Plants_, that (like the _Basilisk_) kill and infect by
+[51]looking on them only; and some by the touch. The truth is, there's
+need of all the Senses to determine _Analogically_ concerning the
+Vertues and Properties, even of the _Leaves_ alone of many _Edule
+Plants_: The most eminent Principles of near the whole Tribe of _Sallet_
+Vegetables, inclining rather to _Acid_ and _Sowre_ than to any other
+quality, especially, Salt, Sweet, or Luscious. There is therefore Skill
+and Judgment requir'd, how to suit and mingle our _Sallet_-Ingredients,
+so as may best agree with the Constitution of the (vulgarly reputed)
+_Humors_ of those who either stand in need of, or affect these
+Refreshments, and by so adjusting them, that as nothing should be
+suffer'd to domineer, so should none of them lose their genuine Gust,
+Savour, or Vertue. To this end,
+
+The Cooler, and moderately refreshing, should be chosen to extinguish
+Thirst, attemper the Blood, repress Vapours, _&c._
+
+The Hot, Dry, Aromatic, Cordial and friendly to the Brain, may be
+qualify'd by the Cold and Moist: The Bitter and Stomachical, with the
+_Sub-acid_ and gentler Herbs: The _Mordicant_ and pungent, and such as
+repress or discuss Flatulency (revive the Spirits, and aid Concoction;)
+with such as abate, and take off the keenness, mollify and reconcile the
+more harsh and churlish: The mild and insipid, animated with _piquant_
+and brisk: The Astringent and Binders, with such as are Laxative and
+Deobstruct: The over-sluggish, raw, and unactive, with those that are
+Eupeptic, and promote Concoction: There are _Pectorals_ for the Breast
+and Bowels. Those of middle Nature, according as they appear to be more
+or less _Specific_; and as their Characters (tho' briefly) are describ'd
+in our foregoing _Catalogue_: For notwithstanding it seem in general,
+that raw _Sallets_ and _Herbs_ have experimentally been found to be the
+most soveraign Diet in that _Endemial_ (and indeed with us, _Epidemical_
+and almost universal) Contagion the _Scorbute_, to which we of this
+Nation, and most other _Ilanders_ are obnoxious; yet, since the
+_Nasturtia_ are singly, and alone as it were, the most effectual, and
+powerful Agents in conquering and expugning that cruel Enemy; it were
+enough to give the _Sallet-Dresser_ direction how to choose, mingle, and
+proportion his Ingredients; as well as to shew what Remedies there are
+contain'd in our Magazine of _Sallet-Plants_ upon all Occasions, rightly
+marshal'd and skilfully apply'd. So as (with our [52]sweet _Cowley_)
+
+
+  _If thro' the strong and beauteous Fence_
+  _Of Temperance and Innocence,_
+  _And wholsome Labours, and a quiet Mind,_
+    _Diseases passage find;_
+    _They must not think here to assail_
+  _A Land unarm'd, or without Guard,_
+  _They must fight for it, and dispute it hard,_
+    _Before they can prevail;_
+  _Scarce any Plant is used here,_
+  _Which 'gainst some Aile a Weapon does not bear_.
+
+
+We have said how necessary it is, that in the Composure of a _Sallet_,
+every Plant should come in to bear its part, without being over-power'd
+by some Herb of a stronger Taste, so as to endanger the native _Sapor_
+and vertue of the rest; but fall into their places, like the _Notes_
+in _Music_, in which there should be nothing harsh or grating: And
+tho' admitting some _Discords_ (to distinguish and illustrate the rest)
+striking in the more sprightly, and sometimes gentler Notes, reconcile
+all Dissonancies, and melt them into an agreeable Composition. Thus the
+Comical _Master-Cook_, introduc'd by _Damoxenus_, when asked [Greek: pos
+esin autois onmphonia]; _What Harmony there was in Meats_? The very
+same (says he) that a _Diatessaron_, _Diapente_, and _Diapason_ have
+one to another in a Consort of Music: And that there was as great care
+requir'd, not to mingle [53]_Sapores minime consentientes_, jarring and
+repugnant Tastes; looking upon him as a lamentable Ignorant, who should
+be no better vers'd in _Democritus_. The whole Scene is very diverting,
+as _Athenaeus_ presents it; and to the same sense _Macrobius_, _Saturn.
+lib._ I. _cap._ I. In short, the main Skill of the Artist lies in this:
+
+  _What choice to choose, for delicacy best;_
+  _What Order so contriv'd, as not to mix_
+  _Tastes not well join'd, inelegant, but bring_
+  _Taste after Taste, upheld by kindliest change_.
+
+
+As our [54]_Paradisian Bard_ introduces Eve, dressing of a _Sallet_ for
+her _Angelical_ Guest.
+
+Thus, by the discreet choice and mixture of the _Oxoleon_ (_Oyl_,
+_Vinegar_, _Salt_, &c.) the Composition is perfect; so as neither the
+_Prodigal_, _Niggard_, nor _Insipid_, should (according to the _Italian_
+Rule) prescribe in my Opinion; since _One_ may be too profuse, the
+_Other_ [55]over-saving, and the _Third_ (like himself) give it no
+Relish at all: It may be too _sharp_, if it exceed a grateful _Acid_;
+too _Insulse_ and flat, if the Profusion be extream. From all which
+it appears, that a Wise-Man is the proper Composer of an excellent
+_Sallet_, and how many _Transcendences_ belong to an accomplish'd
+_Sallet-Dresser_, so as to emerge an exact _Critic_ indeed, He should
+be skill'd in the Degrees, Terms, and various _Species_ of Tastes,
+according to the _Scheme_ set us down in the _Tables_ of the Learned
+[56]Dr. _Grew_, to which I refer the Curious.
+
+'Tis moreover to be consider'd, that _Edule_ Plants are not in all their
+Tastes and Vertues alike: For as Providence has made us to consist of
+different Parts and Members, both Internal and External; so require they
+different Juices to nourish and supply them: Wherefore the force and
+activity of some Plants lie in the _Root_; and even the _Leaves_ of
+some _Bitter-Roots_ are sweet, and _e contra_. Of others, in the _Stem_,
+_Leaves_, _Buds_, _Flowers_, &c. Some exert their Vigour without
+_Decoction_; others being a little press'd or contus'd; others again
+_Raw_, and best in Consort; some alone, and _per se_ without any [Greek:
+skenasia], Preparation, or Mixture at all. Care therefore must be taken
+by the _Collector_, that what he gathers answer to these Qualities; and
+that as near as he can, they consist (I speak of the _cruder Salleting_)
+of the _Oluscula_, and _ex foliis pubescentibus_, or (as _Martial_ calls
+them) _Prototomi rudes_, and very tenderest Parts _Gems_, young _Buds_,
+and even first Rudiments of their several Plants; such as we sometimes
+find in the _Craws_ of the _Wood-Culver_, _Stock-Dove_, _Partridge_,
+_Pheasants_, and other Upland Fowl, where we have a natural _Sallet_,
+pick'd, and almost dress'd to our hands.
+
+
+I. Preparatory to the Dressing therefore, let your Herby Ingredients
+be exquisitely cull'd, and cleans'd of all worm-eaten, slimy, canker'd,
+dry, spotted, or any ways vitiated Leaves. And then that they be rather
+discreetly sprinkl'd, than over-much sob'd with Spring-Water, especially
+_Lettuce_, which Dr. [57]_Muffet_ thinks impairs their Vertue; but this,
+I suppose he means of the _Cabbage_-kind, whose heads are sufficiently
+protected by the outer Leaves which cover it. After washing, let them
+remain a while in the _Cullender_, to drain the superfluous moisture:
+And lastly, swing them altogether gently in a clean course Napkin; and
+so they will be in perfect condition to receive the _Intinctus_
+following.
+
+
+II. That the _Oyl_, an Ingredient so indispensibly and highly necessary,
+as to have obtain'd the name of _Cibarium_ (and with us of _Sallet-Oyl_)
+be very clean, not high-colour'd, nor yellow; but with an Eye rather of
+a pallid _Olive_ green, without Smell, or the least touch of _rancid_,
+or indeed of any other sensible Taste or Scent at all; but smooth,
+light, and pleasant upon the Tongue; such as the genuine _Omphacine_,
+and native _Luca Olives_ afford, fit to allay the tartness of _Vinegar_,
+and other _Acids_, yet gently to warm and humectate where it passes.
+Some who have an aversion to _Oyl_, substitute fresh _Butter_ in its
+stead; but 'tis so exceedingly clogging to the Stomach, as by no means
+to be allow'd.
+
+
+III. _Thirdly_, That the _Vinegar_ and other liquid _Acids_, perfectly
+clear, neither sowre, _Vapid_ or spent; be of the best Wine Vinegar,
+whether Distill'd, or otherwise _Aromatiz'd_, and impregnated with
+the Infusion of _Clove-gillyflowers_, _Elder_, _Roses_, _Rosemary_,
+_Nasturtium_, &c. inrich'd with the Vertues of the Plant.
+
+A _Verjuice_ not unfit for _Sallet_, is made by a _Grape_ of that Name,
+or the green immature Clusters of most other Grapes, press'd and put
+into a small Vessel to ferment.
+
+
+IV. _Fourthly_, That the _Salt_ (_aliorum Condimentorum Condimentum_,
+as _Plutarch_ calls it) detersive, penetrating, quickning (and so great
+a resister of Putrefaction, and universal use, as to have sometimes
+merited Divine Epithets) be of the brightest _Bay grey-Salt_; moderately
+dried, and _contus'd_, as being the least Corrosive: But of this, as
+of _Sugar_ also, which some mingle with the _Salt_ (as warming without
+heating) if perfectly refin'd, there would be no great difficulty;
+provided none, save Ladies, were of the Mess; whilst the perfection of
+_Sallets_, and that which gives them the name, consists in the grateful
+_Saline Acid_-point, temper'd as is directed, and which we find to be
+most esteem'd by judicious Palates: Some, in the mean time, have been
+so nice, and luxuriously curious as for the heightning, and (as they
+affect to speak) giving the utmost _poinant_ and _Relevee_ in lieu of
+our vulgar _Salt_, to recommend and cry-up the _Essential-Salts_ and
+_Spirits_ of the most Sanative Vegetables; or such of the _Alcalizate_
+and _Fixt_; extracted from the _Calcination_ of _Baulm_, _Rosemary_,
+_Wormwood_, _Scurvy-grass_, &c. Affirming that without the gross Plant,
+we might have healing, cooling, generous, and refreshing _Cordials_, and
+all the _Materia Medica_ out of the _Salt-Cellar_ only: But to say no
+more of this Impertinence, as to _Salts_ of _Vegetables_; many indeed
+there be, who reckon them not much unlike in Operation, however
+different in _Taste_, _Crystals_, and _Figure_: It being a question,
+whether they at all retain the Vertues and Faculties of their _Simples_,
+unless they could be made without _Colcination_. _Franciscus Redi_,
+gives us his Opinion of this, in a _Process_ how they are to be
+prepar'd; and so does our Learned [58]Doctor (whom we lately nam'd)
+whether _Lixivial_, _Essential_, _Marine_, or other factitious _Salts_
+of Plants, with their Qualities, and how they differ: But since 'tis
+thought all _Fixed Salts_ made the _common way_, are little better than
+our _common Salt_, let it suffice, that our _Sallet-Salt_ be of the best
+ordinary _Bay-Salt_, clean, bright, dry, and without claminess.
+
+Of _Sugar_ (by some call'd _Indian-Salt_) as it is rarely us'd in
+_Sallet_, it should be of the best refined, white, hard, close, yet
+light and sweet as the _Madera's_: Nourishing, preserving, cleansing,
+delighting the Taste, and preferrable to _Honey_ for most uses. _Note_,
+That both _this_, _Salt_, and _Vinegar_, are to be proportion'd to the
+Constitution, as well as what is said of the Plants themselves. The one
+for cold, the other for hot stomachs.
+
+
+V. That the _Mustard_ (another noble Ingredient) be of the best
+_Tewksberry_; or else compos'd of the soundest and weightiest _Yorkshire
+Seed_, exquisitely sifted, winnow'd, and freed from the Husks, a little
+(not over-much) dry'd by the Fire, temper'd to the consistence of
+a Pap with _Vinegar_, in which shavings of the _Horse-Radish_ have been
+steep'd: Then cutting an _Onion_, and putting it into a small Earthen
+_Gally-Pot_, or some thick _Glass_ of that shape; pour the _Mustard_
+over it, and close it very well with a _Cork_. There be, who preserve
+the Flower and Dust of the bruised Seed in a well-stopp'd Glass, to
+temper, and have it fresh when they please. But what is yet by some
+esteem'd beyond all these, is compos'd of the dried Seeds of the _Indian
+Nasturtium_, reduc'd to Powder, finely bolted, and mixt with a little
+_Levain_, and so from time to time made fresh, as indeed all other
+_Mustard_ should be.
+
+_Note_, That the Seeds are pounded in a Mortar; or bruis'd with a
+polish'd _Cannon-Bullet_, in a large wooden Bowl-Dish, or which is most
+preferr'd, ground in a _Quern_ contriv'd for this purpose only.
+
+
+VI. _Sixthly_, That the _Pepper_ (white or black) be not bruis'd to
+too small a Dust; which, as we caution'd, is very prejudicial. And here
+let me mention the _Root_ of the _Minor Pimpinella_, or small _Burnet
+Saxifrage_; which being dried, is by some extoll'd beyond all other
+_Peppers_, and more wholsom.
+
+Of other _Strewings_ and _Aromatizers_, which may likewise be admitted
+to inrich our _Sallet_, we have already spoken, where we mention
+_Orange_ and _Limon-peel_; to which may also be added, _Jamaica-Pepper_,
+_Juniper-berries_, &c. as of singular Vertue.
+
+Nor here should I omit (the mentioning at least of) _Saffron_, which the
+_German_ Housewives have a _way_ of forming into Balls, by mingling it
+with a little _Honey_; which throughly dried, they reduce to Powder, and
+sprinkle it over their _Sallets_ for a noble _Cordial_. Those of _Spain_
+and _Italy_, we know, generally make use of this Flower, mingling its
+golden Tincture with almost every thing they eat; But its being so apt
+to prevail above every thing with which 'tis blended, we little
+incourage its admittance into our _Sallet_.
+
+
+VII. Seventhly, That there be the Yolks of fresh and new-laid _Eggs_,
+boil'd moderately hard, to be mingl'd and mash'd with the _Mustard_,
+_Oyl_, and _Vinegar_; and part to cut into quarters, and eat with the
+Herbs.
+
+
+VIII. _Eighthly_, (according to the _super_-curious) that the _Knife_,
+with which the _Sallet Herbs_ are cut (especially _Oranges_, _Limons_,
+&c.) be of _Silver_, and by no means of _Steel_, which all _Acids_ are
+apt to corrode, and retain a Metalic relish of.
+
+
+IX. _Ninthly_ and _Lastly_, That the _Saladiere_, (Sallet-Dishes)
+be of _Porcelane_, or of the _Holland-Delft-Ware_; neither too deep
+nor shallow, according to the quantity of the _Sallet_ Ingredients;
+_Pewter_, or even _Silver_, not at all so well agreeing with _Oyl_ and
+_Vinegar_, which leave their several Tinctures. And note, That there
+ought to be one of the Dishes, in which to beat and mingle the Liquid
+_Vehicles_; and a second to receive the crude Herbs in, upon which they
+are to be pour'd; and then with a Fork and a Spoon kept continually
+stirr'd, 'till all the Furniture be equally moisten'd: Some, who are
+husbands of their _Oyl_, pour at first the _Oyl_ alone, as more apt
+to communicate and diffuse its Slipperiness, than when it is mingled
+and beaten with the _Acids_; which they pour on last of all; and 'tis
+incredible how small a quantity of _Oyl_ (in this quality, like the
+gilding of _Wyer_) is sufficient, to imbue a very plentiful assembly
+of _Sallet-Herbs_.
+
+The _Sallet-Gatherer_ likewise should be provided with a light, and
+neatly made _Withy-Dutch-Basket_, divided into several Partitions.
+
+Thus instructed and knowing in the _Apparatus_; the _Species_,
+_Proportions_, and manner of _Dressing_, according to the several
+Seasons you have in the following Table.
+
+It being one of the Inquiries of the Noble [59]Mr. _Boyle_, what _Herbs_
+were proper and fit to make _Sallets_ with, and how best to order them?
+we have here (by the Assistance of Mr. _London_, His Majesty's Principal
+Gard'ner) reduc'd them to a competent Number, not exceeding _Thirty
+Five_; but which may be vary'd and inlarg'd, by taking in, or leaving
+out, any other _Sallet_-Plant, mention'd in the foregoing List, under
+these three or four Heads.
+
+But all these sorts are not to be had at the very same time, and
+therefore we have divided them into the _Quarterly Seasons_, each
+containing and lasting Three Months.
+
+_Note_, That by _Parts_ is to be understood a _Pugil_; which is no
+more than one does usually take up between the Thumb and the two next
+Fingers. By _Fascicule_ a reasonable full Grip, or Handful.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Transcriber's Note: The following tables have been modified from their
+original layout. The left-most columns are converted to "section
+headers", the column headers have been reproduced above each of these
+new sections, and a horizontal rule added above them to better visually
+indicate the restructuring. The original structure is _very_ wide.]
+
+
+  =========================================================================
+                    Species.                 Ordering and Culture.
+  =========================================================================
+             /  1. _Endive_,                 Tied-up to Blanch.
+             |  2. _Cichory_,              \
+             |  3. _Sellery_,              | Earth'd-up
+  IX.        |  4. _Sweet-Fennel_,         |
+  Blanch'd   |  5. _Rampions_,             /
+             |
+             |  6. _Roman_    \            \ Tied-up to Blanch.
+             |  7. _Cosse_    | _Lettuce,_ |
+             |  8. _Silesian_ |            | Tied close up.
+             \  9. _Cabbage_  /            / Pome and Blanch of themselves.
+
+             / 10. _Lob-Lettuce_,          \
+             | 11. _Corn-Sallet_,          | Leaves, all of a midling size.
+             | 12. _Purslane_,             /
+             |
+  XXVI.      | 13. _Cresses_ broad,        \ Seed-Leaves,
+             | 14. _Spinach_, curled,      / and the next to them.
+             |
+  Green      | 15. _Sorrel_, French,       \ The fine young Leaves only,
+  Unblanch'd | 16. _Sorrel_, Greenland,    /   with the first Shoots.
+             |
+             | 17. _Radish_,                 Only the tender young Leaves.
+             | 18. _Cresses_,                The Seed-Leaves, and those
+             |                                 only next them.
+             | 19. _Turnip_,               \
+             | 20. _Mustard_,              | The Seed-Leaves only.
+             | 21. _Scurvy-grass_,         /
+             |
+             | 22. _Chervil_,              \ The young Leaves
+             | 23. _Burnet_,               | immediately after
+             | 24. _Rocket_, Spanish,      | the Seedlings.
+             | 25. _Persly_,               /
+             |
+             | 26. _Tarragon_,             \ The tender Shoots
+             | 27. _Mints_,                /   and Tops.
+             |
+             | 28. _Sampier_,              \
+             | 29. _Balm_,                 | The young tender
+             | 30. _Sage_, Red,            /   Leaves and Shoots.
+             |
+             | 31. _Shalots_,              \
+             | 32. _Cives_ and _Onion_,    / The tender young leaves.
+             |
+             | 33. _Nasturtium_, Indian      The Flowers and Bud-Flowers.
+             |
+             | 34. _Rampion_, Belgrade     \ The Seed-Leaves
+             \ 35. _Trip-Madame_,          /   and young Tops.
+  =========================================================================
+
+
+
+
+  =========================================================================
+  Month. _January_, _February_, and _March_.
+  =========================================================================
+  Ordering
+  and             Species.                       Proportion.
+  Culture.
+
+               / _Rampions_,                   / 10  \
+  Blanch'd     | _Endive_,                     |  2  |
+  as before    | _Succory_,                    |  5  | Roots in Number.
+               | _Fennel_, Sweet.              | 10  |
+               \ _Sellery_,                    \  4  /
+
+               / _Lamb-Lettuce_,               \
+               | _Lob-Lettuce_,                / A pugil of each.
+               |
+               | _Radish_,                     \
+               | _Cresses_,                    / Three parts each.
+               |
+               | _Turneps_,                    \
+               | _Mustard_, Seedlings,         / Of each One part.
+               | _Scurvy-grass_,
+               | _Spinach_,                      Two parts.
+               | _Sorrel_, Greenland,          \
+  Green and    | _Sorrel_, French              |
+  Unblanch'd   | _Chervil_, sweet,             | One part of each.
+               | _Burnet_,                     |
+               | _Rocket_,                     /
+               |                                 Twenty large Leaves.
+               | _Tarragon_,
+               | _Balm_,                       \
+               | _Mint_,                       / One small part of each.
+               | _Sampier_,
+               | _Shalots_,                    \
+               | _Cives_,                      / Very few
+               |
+               | _Cabbage_, Winter.              Two pugils or
+               \                                   small handfuls.
+
+  =========================================================================
+  Month. _April_, _May_, and _June_.
+  =========================================================================
+  Ordering
+  and             Species.                       Proportion.
+  Culture.
+
+               / _Lop_,             \          \
+  Blanch'd     | _Silesan_, Winter, | Lettuce. | Of each a pugil.
+               \ _Roman_, Winter,   /          /
+
+               / _Radishes_,                     Three parts.
+  Green Herbs  | _Cresses_,                      Two parts.
+  Unblanch'd.  | _Purselan_,                     1 Fasciat,
+               |                                   or pretty full gripe
+               | _Sorrel_, French,               Two parts.
+  Note, _That  | _Sampier_,                      One part.
+  the young    | _Onions_, young.                Six parts.
+  Seedling     | _Sage_-tops,_ the Red,          Two parts.
+  Leaves of    |
+  Orange and   | _Persley_,                    \
+  Lemon may    | _Cresses_, the Indian,        |
+  all these    | _Lettuce_, Belgrade,          | Of each One part.
+  months be    | _Trip-Madame_,                |
+  mingled with | _Chervil_, sweet              /
+  the Sallet._ |
+               \ _Burnet_,                       Two parts.
+
+  =========================================================================
+  Month. _July_, _August_, and _September_.
+  =========================================================================
+  Ordering
+  and             Species.                       Proportion.
+  Culture.
+
+  Blanch'd,    / Silesian _Lettuce_,             One whole _Lettuce_.
+  _and may be  |
+  eaten by     | Roman _Lettuce_,              \ Two parts.
+  themselves   | _Cress_,                      /
+  with some_   |
+  Nasturtium-  \ _Cabbage_,                      Four parts.
+  _flowers_.
+
+               / _Cresses_,                    \
+               | _Nasturtium_,                 / Two parts.
+               |
+               | _Purslane_,                   \
+               | _Lop-Lettuce_,                / One part.
+               |
+  Green Herbs  | Belgrade, _or_                \
+  _by          | Crumpen-_Lettuce_.            / Two parts.
+  themselves   |
+  or mingl'd   | _Tarragon_,                     One part.
+  with the_    |
+  Blanch'd.    | _Sorrel_, French              \
+               | _Burnet_,                     / Two parts of each.
+               |
+               \ _Trip-Madame_,                  One part.
+
+  =========================================================================
+  Month. _October_, _November_, and _December_.
+  =========================================================================
+  Ordering
+  and             Species.                       Proportion.
+  Culture.
+
+               / _Endive.                      \ Two if large, four
+               | _Sellery_,                    | if small, Stalk and
+               |                               | part of the Root and
+               |                               / tenderest Leaves.
+               |
+  Blanch'd     | _Lop-Lettuce_,                \
+               | _Lambs-Lettuce_,              / An handful of each.
+               |
+               | _Radish_,                       Three parts.
+               \ _Cresses_,                      Two parts.
+
+               / _Turneps_,                    \
+               | _Mustard_ Seedlings,          / One part of each.
+  Green        |
+               | _Cresses_, broad,             \
+               \ _Spinach_,                    / Two parts of each.
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+_Farther Directions concerning the proper_ Seasons _for the_ Gathering,
+Composing, _and_ Dressing _of a_ Sallet.
+
+
+And _First_, as to the _Season_ both _Plants_ and _Roots_ are then
+properly to be _Gather'd_, and in prime, when most they abound with
+Juice and in Vigour: Some in the _Spring_, or a little anticipating
+it before they Blossom, or are in full Flower: Some in the _Autumnal_
+Months; which later Season many prefer, the Sap of the Herb, tho' not in
+such exuberance, yet as being then better concocted, and so render'd fit
+for _Salleting_, 'till the Spring begins a fresh to put forth new, and
+tender Shoots and Leaves.
+
+This, indeed, as to the _Root_, newly taken out of the Ground is true;
+and therefore should such have their _Germination_ stopt the sooner: The
+approaching and prevailing Cold, both Maturing and Impregnating them; as
+does Heat the contrary, which now would but exhaust them: But for those
+other _Esculents_ and Herbs imploy'd in our _Composition_ of _Sallets_,
+the early _Spring_, and ensuing Months (till they begin to mount, and
+prepare to _Seed_) is certainly the most natural, and kindly Season
+to collect and accommodate them for the Table. Let none then consult
+_Culpeper_, or the _Figure-flingers_, to inform them when the governing
+_Planet_ is in its _Exaltation_; but look upon the _Plants_ themselves,
+and judge of their Vertues by their own Complexions.
+
+Moreover, in _Gathering_, Respect is to be had to their Proportions,
+as provided for in the _Table_ under that Head, be the Quality
+whatsoever: For tho' there is indeed nothing more wholsome than
+_Lettuce_ and _Mustard_ for the _Head_ and _Eyes_; yet either of them
+eaten in excess, were highly prejudicial to them both: Too much of
+the _first_ extreamly debilitating and weakning the _Ventricle_, and
+hastning the further decay of sickly _Teeth_; and of the _second_ the
+_Optic Nerves_, and _Sight_ it self; the like may be said of all the
+rest. I conceive therefore, a Prudent Person, well acquainted with the
+Nature and Properties of _Sallet-Herbs_, &c. to be both the fittest
+_Gatherer_ and _Composer_ too; which yet will require no great Cunning,
+after once he is acquainted with our _Table_ and _Catalogue_.
+
+We purposely, and _in transitu_ only, take notice here of the Pickl'd,
+_Muriated_, or otherwise prepared Herbs; excepting some such Plants,
+and Proportions of them, as are of hard digestion, and not fit to be
+eaten altogether _Crude_, (of which in the _Appendix_) and among which
+I reckon _Ash-keys_, _Broom-buds_ and _Pods_, _Haricos_, _Gurkems_,
+_Olives_, _Capers_, the Buds and Seeds of _Nasturtia_, _Young
+Wall-nuts_, _Pine-apples_, _Eringo_, _Cherries_, _Cornelians_,
+_Berberries_, _&c._ together with several Stalks, Roots, and Fruits;
+Ordinary Pot-herbs, _Anis_, _Cistus Hortorum_, _Horminum_, _Pulegium_,
+_Satureia_, _Thyme_; the intire Family of Pulse and _Legumena_; or other
+_Sauces_, _Pies_, _Tarts_, _Omlets_, _Tansie_, _Farces_, &c. _Condites_
+and Preserves with _Sugar_ by the Hand of Ladies; tho' they are all
+of them the genuine Production of the _Garden_, and mention'd in our
+_Kalendar_, together with their Culture; whilst we confine our selves
+to such Plants and _Esculenta_ as we find at hand; delight our selves
+to gather, and are easily prepar'd for an _Extemporary Collation_,
+or to Usher in, and Accompany other (more Solid, tho' haply not more
+Agreeable) Dishes, as the Custom is.
+
+But there now starts up a Question, Whether it were better, or more
+proper, to _Begin_ with _Sallets_, or End and Conclude with them? Some
+think the harder Meats should first be eaten for better Concoction;
+others, those of easiest Digestion, to make way, and prevent
+Obstruction; and this makes for our _Sallets_, _Horarii_, and _Fugaces
+Fructus_ (as they call 'em) to be eaten first of all, as agreeable to
+the general Opinion of the great _Hippocrates_, and _Galen_, and of
+_Celsus_ before him. And therefore the _French_ do well, to begin with
+their _Herbaceous Pottage_, and for the _Cruder_, a Reason is given:
+
+  [60]_Prima tibi dabitur Ventri_ Lactuca _movendo_
+  _Utilis, & Poris fila refecta suis_.
+
+
+And tho' this Custom came in about Domitian's time[61], [Greek: ho m
+arkaioi], they anciently did quite the contrary,
+
+  [62]_Grataque nobilium Lactuca ciborum_.
+
+
+But of later Times, they were constant at the _Ante-coenia_, eating
+plentifully of _Sallet_, especially of _Lettuce_, and more refrigerating
+Herbs. Nor without Cause: For drinking liberally they were found to
+expell, and allay the Fumes and Vapors of the _genial Compotation_, the
+spirituous Liquor gently conciliating Sleep: Besides, that being of a
+crude nature, more dispos'd, and apt to fluctuate, corrupt, and disturb
+a surcharg'd Stomach; they thought convenient to begin with _Sallets_,
+and innovate the ancient Usage.
+
+  [63]----_Nam Lactuca innatat acri_
+  _Post Vinum Stomacho_----
+
+  For if on drinking Wine you Lettuce eat,
+  It floats upon the Stomach----
+
+
+The _Spaniards_, notwithstanding, eat but sparingly of Herbs at Dinner,
+especially _Lettuce_, beginning with _Fruit_, even before the _Olio_ and
+Hot-Meats come to the Table; drinking their Wine pure, and eating the
+best Bread in the World; so as it seems the Question still remains
+undecided with them,
+
+  [64]_Claudere quae coenas_ Lactuca _solebat avorum_
+  _Dic mihi cur nostras inchoat illa dapes?_
+
+  The _Sallet_, which of old came in at last,
+  Why now with it begin we our Repast?
+
+
+And now since we mention'd _Fruit_, there rises another Scruple:
+Whether _Apples_, _Pears_, _Abricots_, _Cherries_, _Plums_, and other
+Tree, and _Ort-yard-Fruit_, are to be reckon'd among _Salleting_; and
+when likewise most seasonably to be eaten? But as none of these do
+properly belong to our _Catalogue_ of _Herbs_ and _Plants_, to which
+this Discourse is confin'd (bessides what we may occasionally speak of
+hereafter) there is a very useful [65]Treatise on that Subject already
+publish'd. We hasten then in the next place to the _Dressing_, and
+_Composing_ of our Sallet: For by this time, our Scholar may long to
+see the _Rules_ reduc'd to _Practice_, and Refresh himself with what
+he finds growing among his own _Lactuceta_ and other Beds of the
+_Kitchin-Garden_.
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+DRESSING
+
+
+I am not ambitious of being thought an excellent _Cook_, or of those who
+set up, and value themselves, for their skill in _Sauces_; such as was
+_Mithacus_ a _Culinary Philosopher_, and other _Eruditae Gulae_; who read
+Lectures of _Hautgouts_, like the _Archestratus_ in _Athenaeus_: Tho'
+after what we find the _Heroes_ did of old, and see them chining out the
+slaughter'd _Ox_, dressing the Meat, and do the Offices of both _Cook_
+and _Butcher_, (for so [66]_Homer_ represents _Achilles_ himself, and
+the rest of those Illustrious _Greeks_) I say, after this, let none
+reproach our _Sallet-Dresser_, or disdain so clean, innocent, sweet, and
+Natural a Quality; compar'd with the Shambles Filth and _Nidor_, Blood
+and Cruelty; whilst all the World were _Eaters_, and _Composers_ of
+_Sallets_ in its best and brightest Age.
+
+The Ingredients therefore gather'd and proportion'd, as above; Let the
+_Endive_ have all its out-side Leaves stripped off, slicing _in_ the
+White: In like manner the _Sellery_ is also to have the hollow green
+Stem or Stalk trimm'd and divided; slicing-in the blanched Part, and
+cutting the Root into four equal Parts.
+
+_Lettuce_, _Gresses_, _Radish_, &c. (as was directed) must be
+exquisitely pick'd, cleans'd, wash'd, and put into the Strainer;
+swing'd, and shaken gently, and, if you please, separately, or all
+together; Because some like not so well the _Blanch'd_ and Bitter
+Herbs, if eaten with the rest: Others mingle _Endive_, _Succory_, and
+_Rampions_, without distinction, and generally eat _Sellery_ by it
+self, as also Sweet _Fennel_.
+
+From _April_ till _September_ (and during all the Hot _Months_) may
+_Guinny-Pepper_, and _Horse-Radish_ be left out; and therefore we only
+mention them in the Dressing, which should be in this manner.
+
+Your _Herbs_ being handsomely parcell'd, and spread on a clean Napkin
+before you, are to be mingl'd together in one of the Earthen glaz'd
+Dishes: Then, for the _Oxoleon_; Take of clear, and perfectly good
+_Oyl-Olive_, three Parts; of sharpest _Vinegar_ ([67]sweetest of all
+_Condiments_) _Limon_, or Juice of _Orange_, one Part; and therein let
+steep some Slices of _Horse-Radish_, with a little _Salt_; Some in a
+separate _Vinegar_, gently bruise a _Pod_ of _Guinny-Pepper_, straining
+both the _Vinegars_ apart, to make Use of Either, or One alone, or of
+both, as they best like; then add as much _Tewkesbury_, or other dry
+_Mustard_ grated, as will lie upon an Half-Crown Piece: Beat, and mingle
+all these very well together; but pour not on the _Oyl_ and _Vinegar_,
+'till immediately before the _Sallet_ is ready to be eaten: And then
+with the _Yolk_ of two new-laid _Eggs_ (boyl'd and prepar'd, as before
+is taught) squash, and bruise them all into mash with a Spoon; and
+lastly, pour it all upon the _Herbs_, stirring, and mingling them 'till
+they are well and throughly imbib'd; not forgetting the Sprinklings of
+_Aromaticks_, and such Flowers, as we have already mentioned, if you
+think fit, and garnishing the Dish with the thin Slices of
+_Horse-Radish_, _Red Beet_, _Berberries_, &c.
+
+_Note_, That the _Liquids_ may be made more, or less _Acid_, as is most
+agreeable to your Taste.
+
+
+These _Rules_, and _Prescriptions_ duly _Observ'd_; you have a _Sallet_
+(for a Table of Six or Eight Persons) _Dress'd_, and Accommodated
+_secundum Artem_: For, as the [68]Proverb has it,
+
+  [Greek: 'Ou oantos andros esin artusai kalos.]
+  _Non est cujusvis recte condire_.
+
+
+And now after all we have advanc'd in favour of the _Herbaceous_ Diet,
+there still emerges a third Inquiry; namely, Whether the Use of _Crude
+Herbs_ and _Plants_ are so wholesom as is pretended?
+
+What Opinion the Prince of Physicians had of them, we shall see
+hereafter; as also what the Sacred Records of elder Times seem to infer,
+before there were any Flesh-Shambles in the World; together with the
+Reports of such as are often conversant among many Nations and People,
+who to this Day, living on _Herbs_ and _Roots_, arrive to incredible
+Age, in constant Health and Vigour: Which, whether attributable to the
+_Air_ and _Climate_, _Custom_, _Constitution_, &c. should be inquir'd
+into; especially, when we compare the _Antediluvians_ mention'd _Gen._
+1. 29--the whole _Fifth_ and _Ninth_ Chapters, _ver._ 3. confining them
+to _Fruit_ and wholesom Sallets: I deny not that both the _Air_ and
+_Earth_ might then be less humid and clammy, and consequently Plants,
+and Herbs better fermented, concocted, and less Rheumatick, than since,
+and presently after; to say nothing of the infinite Numbers of putrid
+Carcasses of Dead Animals, perishing in the Flood, (of which I find
+few, if any, have taken notice) which needs must have corrupted the
+Air: Those who live in Marshes, and Uliginous Places (like the Hundreds
+of _Essex_) being more obnoxious to _Fevers_, _Agues_, _Pleurisies_,
+and generally unhealthful: The Earth also then a very Bog, compar'd
+with what it likely was before that destructive _Cataclysm_, when
+Men breath'd the pure _Paradisian_ Air, sucking in a more _aethereal_,
+nourishing, and baulmy _Pabulum_, so foully vitiated now, thro' the
+Intemperance, Luxury, and softer Education and Effeminacy of the
+Ages since.
+
+_Custom_, and _Constitution_ come next to be examin'd, together with
+the Qualities, and _Vertue_ of the Food; and I confess, the two first,
+especially that of _Constitution_, seems to me the more likely Cause of
+Health, and consequently of Long-life; which induc'd me to consider of
+what Quality the usual _Sallet_ Furniture did more eminently consist,
+that so it might become more safely applicable to the Temper, Humour,
+and Disposition of our Bodies; according to which, the various Mixtures
+might be regulated and proportion'd: There's no doubt, but those whose
+Constitutions are Cold and Moist, are naturally affected with Things
+which are Hot and Dry; as on the contrary, Hot, and Dry Complexions,
+with such as cool and refrigerate; which perhaps made the _Junior
+Gordian_ (and others like him) prefer the _frigidae Mensae_ (as of old
+they call'd _Sallets_) which, according to _Cornelius Celsus_, is the
+fittest Diet for _Obese_ and Corpulent Persons, as not so Nutritive, and
+apt to Pamper: And consequently, that for the Cold, Lean, and Emaciated;
+such Herby Ingredients should be made choice of, as warm, and cherish
+the Natural Heat, depure the Blood, breed a laudable Juice, and revive
+the Spirits: And therefore my _Lord_ [69]_Bacon_ shews what are best
+Raw, what Boil'd, and what Parts of Plants fittest to nourish. _Galen_
+indeed seems to exclude them all, unless well accompanied with their due
+Correctives, of which we have taken care: Notwithstanding yet, that even
+the most _Crude_ and _Herby_, actually Cold and Weak, may potentially be
+Hot, and Strengthning, as we find in the most vigorous Animals, whose
+Food is only Grass. 'Tis true indeed, Nature has providentially mingl'd,
+and dress'd a _Sallet_ for them in every field, besides what they
+distinguish by Smell; nor question I, but Man at first knew what Plants
+and Fruits were good, before the Fall, by his Natural Sagacity, and not
+Experience; which since by Art, and Trial, and long Observation of their
+Properties and Effects, they hardly recover: But in all Events,
+supposing with [70]_Cardan_, that Plants nourish little, they hurt as
+little. Nay, Experience tells us, that they not only hurt not at all,
+but exceedingly benefit those who use them; indu'd as they are with such
+admirable Properties as they every day discover: For some Plants not
+only nourish laudably, but induce a manifest and wholesom Change; as
+_Onions_, _Garlick_, _Rochet_, &c. which are both nutritive and warm;
+_Lettuce_, _Purselan_, the _Intybs_, &c. and indeed most of the _Olera_,
+refresh and cool: And as their respective Juices being converted into
+the Substances of our Bodies, they become _Aliment_; so in regard of
+their Change and Alteration, we may allow them _Medicinal_; especially
+the greater Numbers, among which we all this while have skill but of
+very few (not only in the Vegetable Kingdom, but in the whole _Materia
+Medica_) which may be justly call'd _Infallible Specifics_, and upon
+whose Performance we may as safely depend, as we may on such as
+familiarly we use for a Crude _Herb-Sallet;_ discreetly chosen, mingl'd,
+and dress'd accordingly: Not but that many of them may be improv'd, and
+render'd better in Broths, and Decoctions, than in _Oyl_, _Vinegar_,
+and other Liquids and Ingredients: But as this holds not in all, nay,
+perhaps in few comparatively, (provided, as I said, the Choice, Mixture,
+Constitution, and _Season_ rightly be understood) we stand up in Defence
+and Vindication of our _Sallet_, against all Attacks and Opposers
+whoever.
+
+We have mentioned _Season_ and with the great _Hippocrates_, pronounce
+them more proper for the Summer, than the Winter; and when those Parts
+of Plants us'd in _Sallet_ are yet tender, delicate, and impregnated
+with the Vertue of the Spring, to cool, refresh, and allay the Heat and
+Drought of the Hot and _Bilious_, Young and over-_Sanguine_, Cold,
+_Pituit_, and Melancholy; in a word, for Persons of all Ages, Humours,
+and Constitutions whatsoever.
+
+To this of the _Annual Seasons_, we add that of _Culture_ also, as of
+very great Importance: And this is often discover'd in the taste and
+consequently in the Goodness of such Plants and _Salleting_, as are
+Rais'd and brought us fresh out of the Country, compar'd with those
+which the Avarice of the _Gardiner_, or Luxury rather of the Age, tempts
+them to force and _Resuscitate_ of the most desirable and delicious
+Plants.
+
+It is certain, says a [71]Learned Person, that about populous Cities,
+where Grounds are over-forc'd for Fruit and early _Salleting_, nothing
+is more unwholsom: Men in the Country look so much more healthy and
+fresh; and commonly are longer liv'd than those who dwell in the Middle
+and Skirts of vast and crowded Cities, inviron'd with rotten Dung,
+loathsome and common Lay Stalls; whose noisome Steams, wafted by the
+Wind, poison and infect the ambient Air and vital Spirits, with those
+pernicious Exhalations, and Materials of which they make the _Hot Beds_
+for the raising those _Praecoces_ indeed, and forward Plants and Roots
+for the wanton Palate; but which being corrupt in the Original, cannot
+but produce malignant and ill Effects to those who feed upon them. And
+the same was well observ'd by the _Editor_ of our famous _Roger Bacon's_
+Treatise concerning the _Cure of Old Age_, and _Preservation of Youth_:
+There being nothing so proper for _Sallet Herbs_ and other _Edule
+Plants_, as the Genial and Natural Mould, impregnate, and enrich'd
+with well-digested Compost (when requisite) without any Mixture of
+Garbage, odious Carrion, and other filthy Ordure, not half consum'd and
+ventilated and indeed reduc'd to the next Disposition of Earth it self,
+as it should be; and that in Sweet, [72]Rising, Aery and moderately
+Perflatile Grounds; where not only _Plants_ but _Men_ do last, and live
+much longer. Nor doubt I, but that every body would prefer Corn, and
+other Grain rais'd from _Marle_, _Chalk_, _Lime_, and other sweet Soil
+and Amendments, before that which is produc'd from the _Dunghil_ only.
+Beside, Experience shews, that the Rankness of _Dung_ is frequently the
+Cause of Blasts and Smuttiness; as if the _Lord_ of the _Universe_,
+by an Act of visible Providence would check us, to take heed of all
+unnatural Sordidness and Mixtures. We sensibly find this Difference
+in Cattle and their Pasture; but most powerfully in _Fowl_, from such
+as are nourish'd with Corn, sweet and dry Food: And as of Vegetable
+_Meats_, so of _Drinks_, 'tis observ'd, that the same Vine, according
+to the Soil, produces a _Wine_ twice as heady as in the same, and a
+less forc'd Ground; and the like I believe of all other Fruit, not to
+determine any thing of the _Peach_ said to be Poison in _Persia_;
+because 'tis a _Vulgar Error_.
+
+Now, because among other things, nothing more betrays its unclean and
+spurious Birth than what is so impatiently longed after as _Early
+Asparagus_, &c. [73]Dr. _Lister_, (according to his communicative and
+obliging Nature) has taught us how to raise such as our _Gardiners_
+cover with nasty Litter, during the Winter; by rather laying of
+Clean and Sweet _Wheat-Straw_ upon the Beds, _super-seminating_ and
+over-strowing them thick with the Powder of bruised _Oyster-Shells_,
+&c. to produce that most tender and delicious _Sallet_. In the mean
+while, if nothing will satisfie save what is rais'd _Ex tempore_, and
+by Miracles of Art so long before the time; let them study (like the
+_Adepti_) as did a very ingenious Gentleman whom I knew; That having
+some Friends of his accidentally come to Dine with him, and wanting an
+early Sallet, Before they sate down to Table, sowed _Lettuce_ and some
+other Seeds in a certain Composition of Mould he had prepared; which
+within the space of two Hours, being risen near two Inches high,
+presented them with a delicate and tender _Sallet_; and this, without
+making use of any nauseous or fulsome Mixture; but of Ingredients not
+altogether so cheap perhaps. _Honoratus Faber_ (no mean _Philosopher_)
+shews us another Method by sowing the Seeds steep'd in _Vinegar_,
+casting on it a good quantity of _Bean-Shell_ Ashes, irrigating them
+with _Spirit of Wine_, and keeping the Beds well cover'd under dry
+Matts. Such another Process for the raising early _Peas_ and _Beans_,
+&c. we have the like [74]Accounts of: But were they practicable and
+certain, I confess I should not be fonder of them, than of such as
+the honest industrious Country-man's Field, and Good Wife's Garden
+seasonably produce; where they are legitimately born in just time,
+and without forcing Nature.
+
+But to return again to _Health_ and _Long Life_, and the Wholesomness
+of the Herby-Diet, [75]_John Beverovicius_, a Learn'd Physician (out of
+_Peter Moxa_, a _Spaniard_) treating of the extream Age, which those of
+_America_ usually arrive to, asserts in behalf of Crude and Natural
+Herbs: _Diphilus_ of old, as [76]_Athenaeus_ tells us, was on the other
+side, against all the Tribe of _Olera_ in general; and _Cardan_ of late
+(as already noted) no great Friend to them; Affirming Flesh-Eaters to
+be much wiser and more sagacious. But this his [77]Learned Antagonist
+utterly denies; Whole Nations, Flesh-Devourers (such as the farthest
+_Northern_) becoming Heavy, Dull, Unactive, and much more Stupid than
+the _Southern_; and such as feed much on Plants, are more Acute, Subtil,
+and of deeper Penetration: Witness the _Chaldaeans_, _Assyrians_,
+_AEgyptians_, &c. And further argues from the short Lives of most
+_Carnivorous_ Animals, compared with Grass Feeders, and the Ruminating
+kind; as the _Hart_, _Camel_, and the longaevous _Elephant_, and other
+Feeders on Roots and Vegetables.
+
+I know what is pretended of our Bodies being composed of _Dissimilar_
+Parts, and so requiring Variety of Food: Nor do I reject the Opinion,
+keeping to the same _Species_; of which there is infinitely more Variety
+in the _Herby_ Family, than in all Nature bessides: But the Danger is in
+the _Generical_ Difference of _Flesh_, _Fish_, _Fruit_, &c. with other
+made Dishes and exotic Sauces; which a wanton and expensive Luxury has
+introduc'd; debauching the Stomach, and sharpening it to devour things
+of such difficult Concoction, with those of more easie Digestion, and of
+contrary Substances, more than it can well dispose of: Otherwise Food of
+the same kind would do us little hurt: So true is that of [78]_Celsus_,
+_Eduntur facilius; ad concoctionem autem materiae, genus, & modus
+pertineat_. They are (says he) easily eaten and taken in: But regard
+should be had to their Digestion, Nature, Quantity and Quality of the
+Matter. As to that of _Dissimilar_ Parts, requiring this contended for
+Variety: If we may judge by other Animals (as I know not why we may not)
+there is (after all the late Contests about _Comparative Anatomy_) so
+little Difference in the Structure, as to the Use of those Parts and
+Vessels destin'd to serve the Offices of Concoction, Nutrition, and
+other Separations for Supply of Life, _&c._ That it does not appear
+why there should need any Difference at all of Food; of which the most
+simple has ever been esteem'd the best, and most wholsome; according
+to that of the [79]Naturalist, _Hominis cibus utilissimus simplex_.
+And that so it is in other Animals, we find by their being so seldom
+afflicted with Mens Distempers, deriv'd from the Causes above-mentioned:
+And if the many Diseases of _Horses_ seem to [80]contradict it, I am apt
+to think it much imputable to the Rack and Manger, the dry and wither'd
+Stable Commons, which they must eat or starve, however qualified; being
+restrained from their Natural and Spontaneous Choice, which Nature
+and Instinct directs them to: To these add the Closeness of the Air,
+standing in an almost continu'd Posture; besides the fulsome Drenches,
+unseasonable Watrings, and other Practices of ignorant _Horse-Quacks_
+and surly Grooms: The Tyranny and cruel Usage of their Masters in tiring
+Journeys, hard, labouring and unmerciful Treatment, Heats, Colds,
+_&c._ which wear out and destroy so many of those useful and generous
+Creatures before the time: Such as have been better us'd, and some, whom
+their more gentle and good-natur'd Patrons have in recompence of their
+long and faithful service, dismiss'd, and sent to Pasture for the rest
+of their Lives (as the _Grand Seignior_ does his _Meccha-Camel_) have
+been known to live _forty_, _fifty_, nay (says [81]_Aristotle_,) no fewer
+than _sixty five_ Years. When once Old _Par_ came to change his simple,
+homely Diet, to that of the _Court_ and _Arundel-House_, he quickly sunk
+and dropt away: For, as we have shew'd, the Stomack easily concocts
+plain, and familiar Food; but finds it an hard and difficult Task, to
+vanquish and overcome Meats of [82]different Substances: Whence we so
+often see temperate and abstemious Persons, of a Collegiate Diet, very
+healthy; Husbandsmen and laborious People, more robust, and longer liv'd
+than others of an uncertain extravagant Diet.
+
+  [83]----_Nam variae res_
+  _Ut noceant Homini, credas, memor illius escae,_
+  _Quae simplex olim tibi sederit_----
+
+  For different Meats do hurt;
+    Remember how
+  When to one Dish confin'd, thou
+    healthier wast than now:
+
+
+was _Osellus's Memorandum_ in the Poet.
+
+Not that variety (which God has certainly ordain'd to delight and assist
+our Appetite) is unnecessary, nor any thing more grateful, refreshing
+and proper for those especially who lead sedentary and studious Lives;
+Men of deep Thought, and such as are otherwise disturb'd with Secular
+Cares and Businesses, which hinders the Function of the Stomach and
+other Organs: whilst those who have their Minds free, use much Exercise,
+and are more active, create themselves a natural Appetite, which needs
+little or no Variety to quicken and content it.
+
+And here might we attest the _Patriarchal_ World, nay, and many
+Persons since; who living very temperately came not much short of the
+_Post-Diluvians_ themselves, counting from _Abraham_ to this Day; and
+some exceeding them, who liv'd in pure Air, a constant, tho' course and
+simple Diet; wholsome and uncompounded Drink; that never tasted _Brandy_
+or _Exotic Spirits_; but us'd moderate Exercise, and observ'd good
+Hours: For such a one a curious Missionary tells us of in Persia; who
+had attain'd the Age of _four hundred_ Years, (a full _Century_ beyond
+the famous _Johannes de Temporibus_) and was living _Anno_ 1636, and so
+may be still for ought we know. But, to our Sallet.
+
+Certain it is, Almighty God ordaining [84]_Herbs_ and _Fruit_ for the
+Food of Men, speaks not a Word concerning _Flesh_ for two thousand
+Years. And when after, by the _Mosaic_ Constitution, there were
+Distinctions and Prohibitions about the legal Uncleanness of _Animals_;
+_Plants_, of what kind soever, were left free and indifferent for every
+one to choose what best he lik'd. And what if it was held undecent and
+unbecoming the Excellency of Man's Nature, before Sin entred, and grew
+enormously wicked, that any Creature should be put to Death and Pain for
+him who had such infinite store of the most delicious and nourishing
+Fruit to delight, and the Tree of Life to sustain him? Doubtless there
+was no need of it. Infants sought the Mother's Nipple as soon as born;
+and when grown, and able to feed themselves, run naturally to Fruit, and
+still will choose to eat it rather than Flesh and certainly might so
+persist to do, did not Custom prevail, even against the very Dictates of
+Nature: Nor, question I, but that what the Heathen [85]_Poets_ recount
+of the Happiness of the _Golden Age_, sprung from some Tradition they
+had received of the _Paradisian_ Fare, their innocent and healthful
+Lives in that delightful Garden. Let it suffice, that _Adam_, and his
+yet innocent Spouse, fed on Vegetables and other Hortulan Productions
+before the fatal Lapse; which, by the way, many Learned Men will hardly
+allow to have fallen out so soon as those imagine who scarcely grant
+them a single Day; nay, nor half a one, for their Continuance in the
+State of Original Perfection; whilst the sending him into the Garden;
+Instructions how he should keep and cultivate it; Edict, and Prohibition
+concerning the _Sacramental_ Trees; the Imposition of [86]Names, so
+apposite to the Nature of such an Infinity of Living Creatures
+(requiring deep Inspection) the Formation of _Eve_, a meet Companion to
+relieve his Solitude; the Solemnity of their Marriage; the Dialogues and
+Success of the crafty Tempter, whom we cannot reasonably think made but
+one Assault: And that they should so quickly forget the Injunction of
+their Maker and Benefactor; break their Faith and Fast, and all other
+their Obligations in so few Moments. I say, all these Particulars
+consider'd; Can it be supposed they were so soon transacted as those do
+fancy, who take their Measure from the Summary _Moses_ gives us, who did
+not write to gratifie Mens Curiosity, but to transmit what was necessary
+and sufficient for us to know.
+
+This then premis'd (as I see no Reason why it should not) and that
+during all this Space they liv'd on _Fruits_ and _Sallets_; 'tis little
+probable, that after their Transgression, and that they had forfeited
+their Dominion over the Creature (and were sentenc'd and exil'd to a
+Life of Sweat and Labour on a cursed and ungrateful Soil) the offended
+God should regale them with Pampering _Flesh_, or so much as suffer
+them to slay the more innocent Animal: Or, that if at any time they had
+Permission, it was for any thing save Skins to cloath them, or in way of
+Adoration, or _Holocaust_ for Expiation, of which nothing of the _Flesh_
+was to be eaten. Nor did the Brutes themselves subsist by Prey (tho'
+pleas'd perhaps with Hunting, without destroying their Fellow Creatures)
+as may be presum'd from their long Seclusion of the most Carnivorous
+among them in the Ark.
+
+Thus then for two thousand Years, the Universal Food was _Herbs_ and
+_Plants_; which abundantly recompens'd the Want of _Flesh_ and other
+luxurious Meats, which shortened their Lives so many hundred Years; the
+[87][Greek: makro-biote-a] of the Patriarchs, which was an Emblem of
+Eternity as it were (after the new Concession) beginning to dwindle to
+a little Span, a Nothing in Comparison.
+
+On the other side, examine we the present Usages of several other
+Heathen Nations; particularly (bessides the _aegyptian_ Priests of old)
+the _Indian Bramins_, Relicts of the ancient _Gymnosophists_ to this
+Day, observing the Institutions of their Founder. _Flesh_, we know was
+banish'd the _Platonic_ Tables, as well as from those of _Pythagoras_;
+(See [88]_Porphyry_ and their Disciples) tho' on different Accounts.
+Among others of the Philosophers, from _Xenocrates_, _Polemon_, &c. we
+hear of many. The like we find in [89]_Clement Alexand._ [90]_Eusebius_
+names more. _Zeno_, _Archinomus_, _Phraartes_, _Chiron_, and others,
+whom _Laertius_ reckons up. In short, so very many, especially of the
+Christian Profession, that some, even of the ancient [91]Fathers
+themselves, have almost thought that the Permission of eating Flesh to
+_Noah_ and his Sons, was granted them no otherwise than _Repudiation_ of
+Wives was to the _Jews_, namely, for _the Hardness of their Hearts_, and
+to satisfie a murmuring Generation that a little after loathed _Manna_
+it self, and _Bread from Heaven_. So difficult a thing it is to subdue
+an unruly Appetite; which notwithstanding [92]_Seneca_ thinks not so
+hard a Task; where speaking of the Philosopher _Sextius_, and _Socion's_
+(abhorring Cruelty and Intemperance) he celebrates the Advantages of the
+_Herby_ and _Sallet_ Diet, as _Physical_, and _Natural_ Advancers of
+Health and other Blessings; whilst Abstinence from Flesh deprives Men of
+nothing but what _Lions_, _Vultures_, Beasts and birds of Prey, blood
+and gorge themselves withal, The whole _Epistle_ deserves the Reading,
+for the excellent Advice he gives on this and other Subjects; and how
+from many troublesome and slavish Impertinencies, grown into Habit and
+Custom (old as he was) he had Emancipated and freed himself: Be this
+apply'd to our present excessive Drinkers of Foreign and _Exotic_
+Liquors. And now
+
+I am sufficiently sensible how far, and to how little purpose I am gone
+on this _Topic_: The Ply is long since taken, and our raw _Sallet_ deckt
+in its best Trim, is never like to invite Men who once have tasted
+_Flesh_ to quit and abdicate a Custom which has now so long obtain'd.
+Nor truly do I think Conscience at all concern'd in the Matter, upon any
+Account of Distinction of _Pure_ and _Impure_; tho' seriously consider'd
+(as _Sextius_ held) _rationi magis congrua_, as it regards the cruel
+Butcheries of so many harmless Creatures; some of which we put to
+merciless and needless Torment, to accommodat them for exquisite and
+uncommon _Epicurism_. There lies else no positive Prohibition;
+Discrimination of Meats being [93]Condemn'd as the _Doctrine of Devils_:
+Nor do Meats _commend us to God_. One eats _quid vult_ (of every thing:)
+another _Olera_, and of _Sallets_ only: But this is not my Business,
+further than to shew how possible it is by so many Instances and
+Examples, to live on wholsome Vegetables, both long and happily: For so
+
+  [94]_The_ Golden Age, _with this Provision blest,_
+  _Such a_ Grand Sallet _made, and was a Feast._
+  _The_ Demi-Gods _with Bodies large and sound,_
+  _Commended then the Product of the Ground._
+  _Fraud then, nor Force were known, nor filthy Lust_,
+  _Which Over-heating and Intemp'rance nurst:_
+  _Be their vile Names in Execration held,_
+  _Who with foul Glutt'ny first the World defil'd:_
+  _Parent of Vice, and all Diseases since,_
+  _With ghastly Death sprung up alone from thence._
+  _Ah, from such reeking, bloody Tables fly,_
+  _Which Death for our Destruction does supply._
+  _In_ Health, _if_ Sallet-Herbs _you can't endure;_
+  _Sick, you'll desire them; or for_ Food, _or_ Cure.
+
+
+As to the other part of the Controversie, which concerns us, [Greek:
+aimatophagoi], and _Occidental Blood_-Eaters; some Grave and Learn'd
+Men of late seem to scruple the present Usage, whilst they see the
+Prohibition appearing, and to carry such a Face of _Antiquity_,
+[95]_Scripture_, [96]_Councils_, [97]_Canons_, [98]_Fathers_; _Imperial
+Constitutions_, and _Universal Practice_, unless it be among us of these
+Tracts of _Europe_, whither, with other Barbarities, that of eating
+the _Blood_ and _Animal_ Life of Creatures first was brought; and by
+our Mixtures with the _Goths_, _Vandals_, and other Spawn of Pagan
+_Scythians_; grown a Custom, and since which I am persuaded more Blood
+has been shed between _Christians_ than there ever was before the Water
+of the Flood covered this Corner of the World: Not that I impute it
+only to our eating _Blood_; but sometimes wonder how it hap'ned that
+so strict, so solemn and famous a _Sanction_ not upon a _Ceremonial
+Account_; but (as some affirm) a _Moral_ and _Perpetual_ from _Noah_,
+to whom the Concession of eating _Flesh_ was granted, and that of Blood
+forbidden (nor to this Day once revok'd) and whilst there also seems
+to lie fairer Proofs than for most other Controversies agitated among
+_Christians_, should be so generally forgotten, and give place to so
+many other impertinent Disputes and Cavels about other superstitious
+Fopperies, which frequently end in Blood and cutting of Throats.
+
+As to the Reason of this Prohibition, its favouring of Cruelty
+excepted, (and that by _Galen_, and other experienc'd Physicians,
+the eating Blood is condemn'd as unwholsome, causing Indigestion and
+Obstructions) if a positive Command of _Almighty God_ were not enough,
+it seems sufficiently intimated; because _Blood_ was the _Vehicle_ of
+the _Life_ and _Animal Soul_ of the Creature: For what other mysterious
+Cause, as haply its being always dedicated to _Expiatory Sacrifices_,
+&c. it is not for us to enquire. 'Tis said, that _Justin Martyr_
+being asked, why the _Christians_ of his time were permitted the
+eating _Flesh_ and not the _Blood_? readily answer'd, That God might
+distinguish them from Beasts, which eat them both together. 'Tis
+likewise urg'd, that by the _Apostolical Synod_ (when the rest of the
+_Jewish_ Ceremonies and Types were abolish'd) this Prohibition was
+mention'd as a thing [99]_necessary_, and rank'd with _Idolatry_, which
+was not to be local or temporary; but universally injoyn'd to converted
+Strangers and _Proselytes_, as well as _Jews_: Nor could the Scandal
+of neglecting to observe it, concern them alone, after so many Ages as
+it was and still is in continual Use; and those who transgress'd, so
+severely punish'd, as by an _Imperial Law_ to be scourg'd to _Blood_ and
+Bone: Indeed, so terrible was the Interdiction, that _Idolatry_ excepted
+(which was also Moral and perpetual) nothing in Scripture seems to be
+more express. In the mean time, to relieve all other Scruples, it does
+not, they say, extend to that [Greek: akribeia] of those few diluted
+Drops of _Extravasated Blood_, which might happen to tinge the Juice
+and Gravy of the Flesh (which were indeed _to strain at a Gnat_) but
+to those who devour the _Venal_ and _Arterial Blood_ separately, and
+in Quantity, as a choice Ingredient of their luxurious Preparations
+and _Apician_ Tables.
+
+But this, and all the rest will, I fear, seem but _Oleribus verba
+facere_, and (as the Proverb goes) be Labour-in-vain to think of
+preaching down _Hogs-Puddings_, and usurp the Chair of _Rabby-Busy_: And
+therefore what is advanc'd in Countenance of the _Antediluvian_ Diet,
+we leave to be ventilated by the Learned, and such as _Curcellaeus_, who
+has borrow'd of all the Ancient Fathers, from _Tertullian, Hierom, S.
+Chrysostom_, &c. to the later Doctors and Divines, _Lyra_, _Tostatus_,
+_Dionysius Carthusianus_, _Pererius_, amongst the _Pontificians_; of
+_Peter Martyr_, _Zanchy_, _Aretius_, _Jac. Capellus_, _Hiddiger_,
+_Cocceius_, _Bochartus_, &c. amongst the _Protestants_; and _instar
+omnium_, by _Salmasius_, _Grotius_, _Vossius_, _Blundel_: In a Word, by
+the Learn'd of both Persuasions, favourable enough to these Opinions,
+_Cajetan_ and _Calvin_ only excepted, who hold, that as to _Abstinence_
+from _Flesh_, there was no positive Command or Imposition concerning
+it; but that the Use of _Herbs_ and _Fruit_ was recommended rather for
+Temperance sake, and the Prolongation of Life: Upon which score I am
+inclin'd to believe that the ancient [Greek: theraoentai], and other
+devout and contemplative Sects, distinguish'd themselves; whose Course
+of Life we have at large describ'd in [100]_Philo_ (who liv'd and taught
+much in Gardens) with others of the Abstemious _Christians_; among whom,
+_Clemens_ brings in St. _Mark_ the _Evangelist_ himself, _James_ our
+Lord's Brother. St. _John_, &c. and with several of the devout Sex, the
+famous _Diaconesse Olympias_, mention'd by _Palladius_ (not to name
+the rest) who abstaining from Flesh, betook themselves to _Herbs_ and
+_Sallets_ upon the Account of Temperance, and the Vertues accompanying
+it; and concerning which the incomparable _Grotius_ declares ingenuously
+his Opinion to be far from censuring, not only those who forbear the
+eating _Flesh_ and Blood, _Experimenti Causa_, and for Discipline sake;
+but such as forbear _ex Opinione_, and (because it has been the ancient
+Custom) provided they blam'd none who freely us'd their Liberty; and I
+think he's in the right.
+
+But leaving this Controversie (_ne nimium extra oleas_) it has often
+been objected, that _Fruit_, and _Plants_, and all other things, may
+since the Beginning, and as the World grows older, have universally
+become _Effoete_, impair'd and diverted of those Nutritious and
+transcendent Vertues they were at first endow'd withal: But as this is
+begging the Question, and to which we have already spoken; so all are
+not agreed that there is any, the least [101]_Decay in Nature_, where
+equal Industry and Skill's apply'd. 'Tis true indeed, that the _Ordo
+Foliatorum, Feuillantines_ (a late Order of _Ascetic Nuns_) amongst
+other Mortifications, made Trial upon the _Leaves_ of _Plants_ alone,
+to which they would needs confine themselves; but were not able to go
+through that thin and meagre Diet: But then it would be enquir'd whether
+they had not first, and from their very Childhood, been fed and brought
+up with _Flesh_, and better Sustenance till they enter'd the _Cloyster_;
+and what the Vegetables and the Preparation of them were allow'd by
+their Institution? Wherefore this is nothing to our Modern Use of
+_Sallets_, or its Disparagement. In the mean time, that we still think
+it not only possible, but likely, and with no great Art or Charge
+(taking _Roots_ and _Fruit_ into the Basket) substantially to maintain
+Mens Lives in Health and Vigour: For to _this_, and less than this, we
+have the Suffrage of the great [102]_Hippocrates_ himself; who thinks,
+_ab initio etiam hominum_ (as well as other Animals) _tali victu
+usum esse_, and needed no other Food. Nor is it an inconsiderable
+Speculation, That since _all Flesh is Grass_ (not in a _Figurative_,
+but _Natural_ and _Real_ Sense) _Man_ himself, who lives on _Flesh_,
+and I think upon no Earthly Animal whatsoever, but such as feed on
+Grass, is nourish'd with them still; and so becoming an _Incarnate
+Herb_, and Innocent _Canibal_, may truly be said to devour himself.
+
+We have said nothing of the _Lotophagi_, and such as (like St. _John_
+the _Baptist_, and other religious _Ascetics_) were Feeders on the
+_Summities_ and Tops of Plants: But as divers of those, and others we
+have mention'd, were much in times of Streights, Persecutions, and other
+Circumstances, which did not in the least make it a Pretence, exempting
+them from Labour, and other Humane Offices, by ensnaring Obligations
+and vows (never to be useful to the Publick, in whatever Exigency)
+so I cannot but take Notice of what a Learned _Critic_ speaking of
+Mens neglecting plain and Essential Duties, under Colour of exercising
+themselves in a more sublime Course of Piety, and being Righteous above
+what is commanded (as those who seclude themselves in Monasteries) that
+they manifestly discover excessive Pride, Hatred of their Neighbour,
+Impatience of Injuries; to which _add, Melancholy Plots and
+Machinations_; and that he must be either stupid, or infected with the
+same Vice himself, who admires this [Greek: etheloperiosothreskeia], or
+thinks they were for that Cause the more pleasing to God. This being
+so, what may we then think of such Armies of _Hermits_, _Monks_ and
+_Friers_, who pretending to justifie a mistaken Zeal and meritorious
+Abstinence; not only by a peculiar Diet and Distinction of Meats
+(which God without Distinction has made the moderate Use of common and
+[103]indifferent amongst _Christians_) but by other sordid Usages, and
+unnecessary Hardships, wilfully prejudice their Health and Constitution?
+and through a singular manner of living, dark and _Saturnine_; whilst
+they would seem to abdicate and forsake the World (in Imitation, as they
+pretend, of the Ancient _Eremites_) take care to settle, and build their
+warm and stately Nests in the most Populous Cities, and Places of
+Resort; ambitious doubtless of the Peoples Veneration and Opinion of an
+extraordinary Sanclity; and therefore flying the _Desarts_, where there
+is indeed no use of them; and flocking to the _Towns_ and _Cities_ where
+there is less, indeed none at all; and therefore no Marvel that the
+Emperour _Valentinian_ banished them the Cities, and _Constantine
+Copronymus_ finding them seditious, oblig'd them to marry, to leave
+their Cells, and live as did others. For of these, some there are who
+seldom speak, and therefore edifie none; sleep little, and lie hard, are
+clad nastily, and eat meanly (and oftentimes that which is unwholsom)
+and therefore benefit none; Not because they might not, both for their
+own, and the Good of others, and the Publick; but because they will not;
+Custom, and a prodigious [104]Sloth accompanying it; which renders it
+so far from _Penance_, and the Mortification pretended, that they know
+not how to live, or spend their Time otherwise. This, as I have often
+consider'd, so was I glad to find it justly perstring'd, and taken
+notice of by a [105]Learned Person, amongst others of his useful
+Remarks abroad.
+
+'These, says he, willingly renouncing the innocent Comforts of Life,
+plainly shew it to proceed more from a chagrin and morose Humour, than
+from any true and serious Principle of sound Religion; which teaches
+Men to be useful in their Generations, sociable and communicative,
+unaffected, and by no means singular and fantastic in Garb and Habit,
+as are these (forsooth) Fathers (as they affect to be call'd) spending
+their Days in idle and fruitless Forms, and tedious Repetitions; and
+thereby thinking to merit the Reward of those Ancient, and truly pious
+_Solitaries_, who, God knows, were driven from their Countries and
+Repose, by the Incursions of barbarous Nations (whilst these have no
+such Cause) and compell'd to Austerities, not of their own chusing and
+making, but the publick Calamity; and to _labour_ with their _Hands_
+for their own, and others necessary Support, as well as with with their
+_Prayers_ and holy Lives, Examples to all the World: And some of these
+indeed (bessides the _Solitaries_ of the _Thebaid_, who wrought for
+abundance of poor Christians, sick, and in Captivity) I might bring
+in, as such who deserv'd to have their Names preserv'd; not for their
+rigorous Fare, and uncouth Disguises; but for teaching that the Grace
+of Temperance and other Vertues, consisted in a cheerful, innocent,
+and profitable Conversation.
+
+And now to recapitulate what other Prerogatives the _Hortulan Provision_
+has been celebrated for, bessides its Antiquity, Health and _Longaevity_
+of the _Antediluvians_; that Temperance, Frugality, Leisure, Ease, and
+innumerable other Vertues and Advantages, which accompany it, are no
+less attributable to it. Let us hear our excellent _Botanist_ [106]Mr.
+_Ray_.
+
+'The Use of Plants (says he) is all our Life long of that universal
+Importance and Concern, that we can neither live nor subsist in any
+Plenty with Decency, or Conveniency or be said to live indeed at all
+without them: whatsoever Food is necessary to sustain us, whatsoever
+contributes to delight and refresh us, are supply'd and brought forth
+out of that plentiful and abundant store: and ah, how much more
+innocent, sweet and healthful, is a Table cover'd with these, than with
+all the reeking Flesh of butcher'd and slaughter'd Animals: Certainly
+Man by Nature was never made to be a _Carnivorous_ Creature; nor is
+he arm'd at all for Prey and Rapin, with gag'd and pointed Teeth and
+crooked Claws, sharp'ned to rend and tear: But with gentle Hands to
+gather Fruit and Vegetables, and with Teeth to chew and eat them: Nor
+do we so much as read the Use of _Flesh_ for Food, was at all permitted
+him, till after the Universal Deluge, _&c._
+
+To this might we add that transporting Consideration, becoming both our
+Veneration and Admiration of the infinitely wise and glorious Author of
+Nature, who has given to _Plants_ such astonishing Properties; such
+fiery Heat in some to warm and cherish, such Coolness in others to
+temper and refresh, such pinguid Juice to nourish and feed the Body,
+such quickening _Acids_ to compel the Appetite, and grateful vehicles to
+court the Obedience of the Palate, such Vigour to renew and support our
+natural Strength, such ravishing Flavour and Perfumes to recreate and
+delight us: In short, such spirituous and active Force to animate and
+revive every Faculty and Part, to all the kinds of Human, and, I had
+almost said Heavenly Capacity too. What shall we add more? Our Gardens
+present us with them all; and whilst the _Shambles_ are cover'd with
+Gore and Stench, our _Sallets_ scape the Insults of the Summer _Fly_,
+purifies and warms the Blood against Winter Rage: Nor wants there
+Variety in more abundance, than any of the former Ages could shew.
+
+Survey we their _Bills of Fare_, and Numbers of Courses serv'd up by
+_Athenaeus_, drest with all the Garnish of _Nicander_ and other _Grecian_
+Wits: What has the _Roman Grand Sallet_ worth the naming? _Parat
+Convivium_, The Guests are nam'd indeed, and we are told,
+
+  ----[107]_Varias, quas habet hortus opes?_
+  How richly the Garden's stor'd:
+
+
+  _In quibus est Luctuca sedens, & tonsile porrum,
+  Nee deest ructatrix Mentha, nec herba salax, &c._
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+A Goodly Sallet!
+
+
+_Lettuce_, _Leeks_, _Mint_, _Rocket_, _Colewort-Tops_, with _Oyl_ and
+_Eggs_, and such an _Hotch-Pot_ following (as the Cook in _Plautus_
+would deservedly laugh at). But how infinitely out-done in this Age of
+ours, by the Variety of so many rare _Edules_ unknown to the Ancients,
+that there's no room for the Comparison. And, for Magnificence, let
+the _Sallet_ drest by the Lady for an Entertainment made by _Jacobus
+Catsius_ (describ'd by the Poet [108]_Barlaeus_) shew; not at all yet
+out-doing what we every Day almost find at our _Lord Mayor's Table_, and
+other great Persons, Lovers of the Gardens; that sort of elegant Cookery
+being capable of such wonderful Variety, tho' not altogether wanting
+of old, if that be true which is related to us of [109]_Nicomedes_
+a certain King of Bithynia, whose Cook made him a _Pilchard_ (a Fish
+he exceedingly long'd for) of a well dissembl'd Turnip, carv'd in its
+Shape, and drest with _Oyl_, _Salt_, and _Pepper_, that so deceiv'd, and
+yet pleased the Prince, that he commended it for the best Fish he had
+ever eaten. Nor does all this exceed what every industrious _Gardiner_
+may innocently enjoy, as well as the greatest Potentate on Earth.
+
+  Vitellius _his Table, to which every Day_
+  _All Courtiers did a constant Tribute pay,_
+  _Could nothing more delicious afford_
+  _Than Nature's Liberality._
+  _Help'd with a little Art and Industry,_
+  _Allows the meanest Gard'ners Board,_
+  _The Wanton Taste no Fish or Fowl can chuse,_
+  _For which the Grape or Melon she would lose._
+  _Tho' all th' Inhabitants of Sea and Air._
+  _Be lifted in the Glutton's Bill of Fare;_
+  _Yet  still the_ Sallet, _and the_ Fruit _we see_
+  _Plac'd the third Story high in all her Luxury_.
+
+
+So the Sweet [110]_Poet_, whom I can never part with for his Love to
+this delicious Toil, and the Honour he has done me.
+
+Verily, the infinite Plenty and Abundance, with which the benign and
+bountiful Author of Nature has stor'd the whole Terrestrial World, more
+with _Plants_ and _Vegetables_ than with any other Provision whatsoever;
+and the Variety not only equal, but by far exceeding the Pleasure
+and Delight of Taste (above all the Art of the _Kitchen_, than ever
+[111]_Apicius_ knew) seems loudly to call, and kindly invite all her
+living Inhabitants (none excepted) who are of gentle Nature, and most
+useful, to the same _Hospitable_ and Common-Board, which first she
+furnish'd with _Plants_ and _Fruit_, as to their natural and genuine
+Pasture; nay, and of the most wild, and savage too _ab origine_: As in
+_Paradise_, where, as the _Evangelical_ [112]Prophet adumbrating the
+future Glory of the _Catholick Church_, (of which that happy _Garden_
+was the _Antitype_) the _Wolf and the Lamb, the angry and furious Lion,
+should eat Grass and Herbs together with the Ox_. But after all, _latet
+anguis in herba_, there's a _Snake_ in the Grass; Luxury, and Excess in
+our most innocent Fruitions. There was a time indeed when the Garden
+furnish'd Entertainments for the most Renown'd Heroes, virtuous and
+excellent Persons; till the Blood-thirsty and Ambitious, over-running
+the Nations, and by Murders and Rapine rifl'd the World, to transplant
+its Luxury to its new Mistriss, _Rome_. Those whom heretofore [113]two
+Acres of Land would have satisfied, and plentifully maintain'd; had
+afterwards their very Kitchens almost as large as their first
+Territories: Nor was that enough: Entire [114]_Forests_ and _Parks_,
+_Warrens_ and _Fish-Ponds_, and ample Lakes to furnish their Tables,
+so as Men could not live by one another without Oppression: Nay, and
+to shew how the best, and most innocent things may be perverted; they
+chang'd those frugal and _inemptas Dapes_ of their Ancestors, to that
+Height and Profusion; that we read of [115]_Edicts_ and _Sumptuary
+Laws_, enacted to restrain even the Pride and Excess of _Sallets_. But
+so it was not when the _Pease-Field_ spread a Table for the Conquerors
+of the World, and their Grounds were cultivated _Vomere laureato,
+& triumphali aratore_: The greatest Princes took the _Spade_ and the
+_Plough-Staff_ in the same Hand they held the Sceptre; and the Noblest
+[116]Families thought it no Dishonour, to derive their Names from
+_Plants_ and _Sallet-Herbs_; They arriv'd, I say to that Pitch of
+ingrossing all that was but green, and could be vary'd by the Cook
+(_Heu quam prodiga ventris_!) that, as _Pliny_ tells us (_non sine
+pudore_, not without blushing) a poor Man could hardly find a _Thistle_
+to dress for his Supper; or what his hungry [117]_Ass_ would not touch,
+for fear of pricking his Lips.
+
+Verily the Luxury of the East ruin'd the greatest Monarchies; first, the
+_Persian_, then the _Grecian_, and afterwards _Rome_ her self: By what
+Steps, see elegantly describ'd in Old [118]_Gratius_ the _Faliscian_,
+deploring his own Age compar'd with the former:
+
+  _O quantum, & quoties decoris frustrata paterni!_
+  _At qualis nostris, quam simplex mensa Camillis!_
+  _Qui tibi cultus erat post tot, serrane, triumphos?_
+  _Ergo illi ex habitu, virtutisq; indole priscae,_
+  _Imposuere orbi Romam caput_:----
+
+  Neighb'ring Excesses being made thine own,
+  How art thou fall'n from thine old Renown!
+  But our _Camilli_ did but plainly fare,
+  No Port did oft triumphant _Serran_ bear:
+  Therefore such Hardship, and their Heart so great
+  Gave _Rome_ to be the World's Imperial Seat.
+
+
+But as these were the Sensual and Voluptuous, who abus'd their Plenty,
+spent their Fortunes and shortned their Lives by their Debauches; so
+never did they taste the Delicaces, and true Satisfaction of a sober
+Repast, and the infinite Conveniences of what a well-stor'd _Garden_
+affords; so elegantly describ'd by the [119]_Naturalist_, as costing
+neither Fuel nor Fire to boil, Pains or time to gather and prepare,
+_Res expedita & parata semper_: All was so near at hand, readily drest,
+and of so easie Digestion; as neither to offend the Brain, or dull the
+Senses; and in the greatest Dearth of Corn, a little Bread suffic'd.
+In all Events,
+
+  _Panis ematur, Olus, Vini Sextarius adde_
+  _Queis humana sibi doleat natura negatis_.
+
+  Bread, Wine and wholsome Sallets you may buy,
+  What Nature adds besides is Luxury.
+
+
+They could then make an honest Meal, and dine upon a _Sallet_ without
+so much as a Grain, of _Exotic Spice_; And the _Potagere_ was in such
+Reputation, that she who neglected her _Kitchen-Garden_ (for that was
+still the Good-Woman's Province) was never reputed a tolerable Hus-wife:
+_Si vespertinus subito te oppresserit hospes_, she was never surpriz'd,
+had all (as we said) at hand, and could in a Trice set forth an handsome
+_Sallet_: And if this was Happiness, _Convictus facilis sine arte mensa_
+(as the _Poet_ reckons) it was here in Perfection. In a Word, so
+universal was the _Sallet_, that the [120]Un-bloody Shambles (as _Pliny_
+calls them) yielded the [121]_Roman_ State a more considerable Custom
+(when there was little more than honest _Cabbage_ and _Worts_) than
+almost any thing bessides brought to Market.
+
+They spent not then so much precious time as afterwards they did,
+gorging themselves with _Flesh_ and _Fish_, so as hardly able to rise,
+without reeking and reeling from Table.
+
+  [122]----_Vides ut pallidus omnis_
+  _Coena desurgat dubia? quin corpus onustum_
+  _Hesternis vitiis, animum quoque praegravat una,_
+  _Atque affigit humo divinae particulam aurae_.
+
+  See but how pale they look, how wretchedly,
+  With Yesterday's Surcharge disturb'd they be!
+  Nor Body only suff'ring, but the Mind,
+  That nobler Part, dull'd and depress'd we find.
+  Drowsie and unapt for Business, and other nobler Parts of Life.
+
+
+Time was before Men in those golden Days: Their Spirits were brisk and
+lively.
+
+  ----_Ubi dicto citius curata sopori_
+  _Membra dedit, Vegetus praescripta ad munera surgit_.
+
+  With shorter, but much sweeter Sleep content,
+  Vigorous and fresh, about their Business went.
+
+
+And Men had their Wits about them; their Appetites were natural, their
+Sleep _molli sub arbore_, sound, sweet, and kindly: That excellent
+Emperour _Tacitus_ being us'd to say of _Lettuce_, that he did _somnum
+se mercari_ when he eat of them, and call'd it a sumptuous Feast, with
+a _Sallet_ and a single _Pullet_, which was usually all the Flesh-Meat
+that sober Prince eat of; whilst _Maximinus_ (a profess'd Enemy to
+_Sallet_) is reported to have scarce been satisfied, with sixty Pounds
+of Flesh, and Drink proportionable.
+
+There was then also less expensive Grandure, but far more true State;
+when _Consuls_, great Statesmen (and such as atchiev'd the most renown'd
+Actions) sup'd in their _Gardens_; not under costly, gilded, and inlaid
+Roofs, but the spreading _Platan_; and drank of the Chrystal Brook, and
+by Temperance, and healthy Frugality, maintain'd the Glory of _Sallets_,
+_Ah, quanta innocentiore victu_! with what Content and Satisfaction!
+Nor, as we said, wanted there Variety; for so in the most blissful
+Place, and innocent State of Nature, See how the first _Empress_ of the
+World _Regal's_ her _Celestial_ Guest:
+
+  [123]_With sav'ry Fruit of Taste to please_
+  _True Appetite, ---- and brings_
+  _Whatever Earth's all-bearing Mother yields_
+  _----Fruit of all kinds, in Coat_
+  _Rough, or smooth-Rind, or bearded Husk, or Shell_.
+  _Heaps with unsparing Hand: For Drink the Grape_
+  _She crushes, inoffensive Moust, and Meaches_
+  _From many a Berry, and from sweet Kernel prest,_
+  _She temper'd dulcid Creams_.----
+
+
+Then for the Board.
+
+  ----_Rais'd of a grassy Turf_
+  _The Table was, and Mossy Seats had round;_
+  _And on the ample Meaths from Side to Side,_
+  _All Autumn pil'd: Ah Innocence,_
+  _Deserving Paradise_!
+
+
+Thus, the _Hortulan_ Provision of the [124]_Golden Age_ fitted all
+_Places_, _Times_ and _Persons_; and when Man is restor'd to that State
+again, it will be as it was in the Beginning.
+
+But now after all (and for Close of all) Let none yet imagine, that
+whilst we justifie our present Subject through all the _Topics of
+Panegyric_, we would in Favour of the _Sallet_, drest with all its Pomp
+and Advantage turn Mankind to _Grass_ again; which were ungratefully
+to neglect the Bounty of Heaven, as well as his Health and Comfort:
+But by these Noble Instances and Examples, to reproach the _Luxury_
+of the present Age; and by shewing the infinite Blessing and Effects of
+Temperance, and the Vertues accompanying it; with how little Nature, and
+a [125]Civil Appetite may be happy, contented with moderate things, and
+within a little Compass, reserving the rest, to the nobler Parts of
+Life. And thus of old,
+
+  _Hoc erat in votis, modus agri non ita magnus, _&a._
+
+He that was possess'd of a little Spot of Ground, and well=cultivated
+_Garden_, with other moderate Circumstances, had [126]_Haeredium_. All
+that a modest Man could well desire. Then,
+
+
+  [127]_Happy the Man, who from Ambition freed,_
+  _A little Garden, little Field does feed._
+  _The Field gives frugal Nature what's requird;_
+  _The Garden what's luxuriously desir'd:_
+  _The specious Evils of an anxious Life,_
+  _He leaves to Fools to be their endless Strife_.
+
+
+O Fortunatos nimium bona si sua norint Horticulos!
+
+
+_FINIS_
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+_APPENDIX_
+
+
+Tho' _it was far from our first Intention to charge this small Volume
+and Discourse concerning_ Crude Sallets, _with any of the following
+Receipts: Yet having since received them from an_ Experienc'd Housewife;
+_and that they may possibly be useful to correct, preserve and improve
+our_ Acetaria, _we have allow'd them Place as an_ Appendant _Variety
+upon Occasion: Nor account we it the least Dishonour to our former
+Treatise, that we kindly entertain'd them; since (besides divers
+Learned_ Physicians, _and such as have_ ex professo _written_ de Re
+Cibaria) _we have the Examples of many other_ [128]Noble _and_
+Illustrious _Persons both among the_ Ancient _and_ Modern.
+
+
+1. Artichoak. _Clear it of the Leaves and cut the Bottoms in pretty thin
+Slices or Quarters; then fry them in fresh Butter with some Parsley,
+till it is crisp, and the Slices tender; and so dish them with other
+fresh melted Butter_.
+
+_How a_ Poiverade _is made, and the Bottoms preserv'd all the Winter,
+See_ Acetaria. p. 5, 6.
+
+Ashen-keys. _See_ Pickle.
+
+Asparagus. _See_ Pickle.
+
+  Beets.   \
+  Broom.   |
+  Buds.    |   _See_ Pickle.
+  Capers.  /
+
+Carrot. _See_ Pudding.
+
+Champignon. _See_ Mushroom.
+
+
+2. Chessnut. _Roasted under the Embers, or dry fryed, till they shell,
+and quit their Husks, may be slit; the Juice of Orange squeezed on a
+Lump of hard Sugar dissolv'd; to which add some Claret Wine_.
+
+  Collyflower.     \
+  Cucumber.        |
+  Elder flowers.   | _See_ Pickle.
+  Flowers.         |
+  Gilly-flowers.   /
+
+Herbs. _See_ Pudding _and_ Tart.
+
+Limon. _See_ Pickle.
+
+
+3. Mushroom. _Chuse the small, firm and white Buttons_, growing _upon
+sweet Pasture_ _Grounds, neither under, or about any Trees: strip off
+the upper Skin, and pare away all the black spungy Bottom part; then
+slice them in quarters, and cast them in Water a while to cleanse: Then
+Boil them in fresh Water, and a little sweet Butter; (some boil them a
+quarter of an hour first) and then taking them out, dry them in a Cloth,
+pressing out the Water, and whilst hot, add the Butter; and then boiling
+a full Hour (to exhaust the Malignity) shift them in another clean
+Water, with Butter, as before till they become sufficiently tender. Then
+being taken out, pour upon them as much strong Mutton (or other) Broth
+as will cover them, with six Spoonfuls of White-Wine, twelve Cloves, as
+many Pepper-Corns, four small young Onions, half an Handful of Persly
+bound up with two or three Spriggs of Thyme, an_ Anchovy, _Oysters raw,
+or pickl'd; a little Salt, sweet Butter; and so let them stew_. _See_
+Acetar. p. 26.
+
+
+Another.
+
+
+_Prepared, and cleans'd as above, and cast into Fountain-Water, to
+preserve them from growing black; Boil them in fresh Water and Salt; and
+whilst on the Fire, cast in the_ Mushrooms, _letting them boil till they
+become tender: Then stew them leisurely between two Dishes (the Water
+being drained from them) in a third Part of White-Wine_ _and Butter, a
+small Bundle of sweet Herbs at discretion. To these add Broth as before,
+with Cloves, Mace, Nutmeg_, Anchovies (_one is sufficient_) _Oysters_,
+&c. _a small Onion, with the green Stem chopt small; and lastly, some
+Mutton-Gravy, rubbing the Dish gently with a Clove of Garlick, or some_
+Rocombo _Seeds in its stead. Some beat the Yolk of a fresh Egg with
+Vinegar, and Butter, and a little Pepper_.
+
+_In_ France _some (more compendiously being peel'd and prepared) cast
+them into a Pipkin, where, with the Sweet Herbs, Spices, and an Onion
+they stew them in their own Juice, without any other Water or Liquor at
+all; and then taking out the Herbs and Onion, thicken it with a little
+Butter, and so eat them_.
+
+
+_In_ Poiverade.
+
+
+_The large Mushrooms well cleansed_, &c. _being cut into quarters and
+strewed with Pepper and Salt, are broil'd on the Grid-iron, and eaten
+with fresh Butter_.
+
+
+_In_ Powder.
+
+
+_Being fresh gathered, cleans'd_, &c. _and cut in Pieces, stew them
+in Water and Salt; and being taken forth, dry them with a Cloth: Then
+putting them into an Earth-Glazed Pot, set them into the Oven after the
+Bread is drawn: Repeat this till they are perfectly dry; and reserve
+them in Papers to crumble into what Sauce you please. For the rest,
+see_ Pickle.
+
+
+4. Mustard. _Procure the best and weightiest Seed: cast it into Water
+two or three times, till no more of the Husk arise: Then taking out the
+sound_ (_which will sink to the Bottom_) _rub it very dry in warm course
+Cloths, shewing it also a little to the Fire in a Dish or Pan. Then
+stamp it as small as to pass through a fine Tiffany Sieve: Then slice
+some Horse-Radish and lay it to soak in strong Vinegar, with a small
+Lump of hard Sugar_ (_which some leave out_) _to temper the Flower with,
+being drained from the Radish, and so pot it all in a Glaz'd Mug, with
+an Onion, and keep it well stop'd with a Cork upon a Bladder, which is
+the more cleanly: But this_ Receit _is improv'd, if instead of Vinegar,
+Water only, or the Broth of powder'd Beef be made use of. And to some of
+this_ Mustard _adding Verjuice, Sugar, Claret-Wine, and Juice of Limon,
+you have an excellent Sauce to any sort of Flesh or Fish_.
+
+_Note, that a Pint of good Seed is enough to make at one time, and to
+keep fresh a competent while. What part of it does not pass the_ Sarse,
+_may be beaten again; and you may reserve the Flower in a well closed
+Glass, and make fresh Mustard when you please_. _See_ Acetaria, p. 38,
+67.
+
+Nasturtium. _Vide_ Pickle.
+
+Orange. _See_ Limon _in Pickle_.
+
+
+5. Parsnip. _Take the large Roots, boil them, and strip the Skin: Then
+slit them long-ways into pretty thin Slices; Flower and fry them in
+fresh Butter till they look brown. The sauce is other sweet Butter
+melted. Some strow Sugar and Cinamon upon them. Thus you may accomodate
+other Roots_.
+
+_There is made a Mash or Pomate of this Root, being boiled very tender
+with a little fresh Cream; and being heated again, put to it some
+Butter, a little Sugar and Juice of Limon; dish it upon Sippets;
+sometimes a few_ Corinths _are added_.
+
+Peny-royal. _See_ Pudding.
+
+
+Pickles.
+
+
+6. _Pickl'd_
+   Artichoaks. _See_ Acetaria, p. 5.
+
+
+7. Ashen-keys. _Gather them young, and boil them in three or four Waters
+to extract the Bitterness; and when they feel tender, prepare a Syrup of
+sharp White-Wine Vinegar, Sugar, and a little Water. Then boil them on
+a very quick Fire, and they will become of a green Colour, fit to be
+potted so soon as cold_.
+
+
+8. Asparagus. _Break off the hard Ends, and put them in White-Wine
+Vinegar and Salt, well covered with it; and so let them remain for six
+Weeks: Then taking them out, boil the Liquor or Pickle, and scum it
+carefully. If need be, renew the Vinegar and Salt; and when 'tis cold,
+pot them up again. Thus may one keep them the whole Year_.
+
+
+9. Beans. _Take such as are fresh, young, and approaching their full
+Growth. Put them into a strong Brine of White-Wine Vinegar and Salt able
+to bear an Egg. Cover them very close, and so will they be preserved
+twelve Months: But a Month before you use them, take out what Quantity
+you think sufficient for your spending a quarter of a Year (for so long
+the second Pickle will keep them sound) and boil them in a Skillet of
+fresh Water, till they begin to look green, as they soon will do. Then
+placing them one by one, (to drain upon a clean course Napkin) range
+them Row by Row in a_ Jarr, _and cover them with Vinegar, and what Spice
+you please; some Weight being laid upon them to keep them under the
+Pickle. Thus you may preserve French-Beans_, Harico's, &c. _the whole
+Year about_.
+
+
+10. Broom-Buds _and_ Pods. _Make a strong Pickle, as above; stir it very
+well, till the Salt be quite dissolved, clearing off the Dregs and Scum.
+The next Day pour it from the Bottom; and having rubbed the Buds dry pot
+them up in a Pickle-Glass, which should be frequently shaken, till they
+sink under it, and keep it well stopt and covered_.
+
+_Thus may you-pickle any other_ Buds. _Or as follows:_
+
+
+11. _Of_ Elder. _Take the largest_ Buds, _and boil them in a Skillet
+with Salt and Water, sufficient only to scald them; and so (being taken
+off the Fire) let them remain covered till Green; and then pot them with
+Vinegar and Salt, which has had one Boil up to cleanse it_.
+
+
+12. Collyflowers. _Boil them till they fall in Pieces: Then with some of
+the Stalk, and worst of the Flower, boil it in a part of the Liquor till
+pretty strong: Then being taken off, strain it; and when settled, clear
+it from the Bottom. Then with_ Dill, _Gross Pepper, a pretty Quantity of
+Salt, when cold, add as much Vinegar as will make it sharp, and pour all
+upon the_ Collyflower; _and so as to keep them from touching one
+another; which is prevented by putting Paper close to them_.
+
+Cornelians _are pickled like_ Olives.
+
+
+13. Cowslips. _Pick very clean; to each Pound of Flowers allow about one
+Pound of Loaf Sugar, and one Pint of White-Wine Vinegar, which boil to a
+Syrup, and cover it scalding-hot. Thus you may pickle_ Clove-gillyflowers,
+Elder, _and other Flowers, which being eaten alone, make a very agreeable
+Salletine_.
+
+
+14. Cucumbers. _Take the_ Gorkems, _or smaller_ Cucumbers; _put them
+into_ Rape-Vinegar, _and boyl, and cover them so close, as none of the
+Vapour may issue forth; and also let them stand till the next day: Then
+boil them in fresh White-Wine Vinegar, with large Mace, Nutmeg, Ginger,
+white Pepper, and a little Salt, (according to discretion) straining the
+former Liquor from the_ Cucumbers; _and so place them in a Jarr, or wide
+mouthed Glass, laying a litle Dill and Fennel between each Rank; and
+covering all with the fresh scalding-hot Pickle, keep all close, and
+repeat it daily, till you find them sufficiently green_.
+
+_In the same sort_ Cucumbers _of the largest size, being peel'd and cut
+into thin Slices, are very delicate_.
+
+
+Another.
+
+
+_Wiping them clean, put them in a very strong Brine of Water and Salt,
+to soak two or three Hours or longer, if you see Cause: Then range
+them in the_ Jarr _or_ Barrellet _with Herbs and Spice as usual; and
+cover them with hot Liquor made of two parts Beer-Vinegar, and one of
+White-Wine Vinegar: Let all be very well closed. A Fortnight after scald
+the Pickle again, and repeat it, as above: Thus they will keep longer,
+and from being so soon sharp, eat crimp and well tasted, tho' not
+altogether so green. You may add a Walnut-Leaf, Hysop, Costmary_, &c.
+_and as some do, strow on them a little Powder of_ Roch-Allom, _which
+makes them firm and eatable within a Month or six Weeks after_.
+
+
+Mango _of_ Cucumbers.
+
+
+_Take the biggest_ Cucumbers _(and most of the_ Mango _size) that look
+green: Open them on the Top or Side; and scooping out the Seeds, supply
+their Place with a small Clove of Garlick, or some_ Roccombo _Seeds.
+Then put them into an Earthen Glazed_ Jarr, _or wide-mouth'd Glass, with
+as much White-Wine Vinegar as will cover them. Boil them in the Vinegar
+with Pepper, Cloves, Mace, &c. and when off the Fire, as much Salt as
+will make a gentle Brine; and so pour all boyling-hot on the_ Cucumbers,
+_covering them close till the next Day. Then put them with a little
+Dill, and Pickle into a large Skillet; and giving them a Boyl or two,
+return them into the Vessel again: And when all is cold, add a good
+Spoonful of the best_ Mustard, _keeping it from the Air, and so have you
+an excellent_ Mango. _When you have occasion to take any out, make use
+of a Spoon, and not your Fingers_.
+
+Elder. _See_ Buds.
+
+Flowers. _See_ Cowslips, _and for other_ Flowers.
+
+
+15. Limon. _Take Slices of the thick Rind Limon, Boil and shift them in
+several Waters, till they are pretty tender: Then drain and wipe them
+dry with a clean Cloth; and make a Pickle with a little White-Wine
+Vinegar, one part to two of fair Water, and a little Sugar, carefully
+scum'd. When all is cold, pour it on the peel'd Rind, and cover it all
+close in a convenient Glass Jarr. Some make a Syrup of Vinegar,
+White-Wine and Sugar not too thick, and pour it on hot_.
+
+
+16. Melon. _The abortive and after-Fruit of Melons being pickled as_
+Cucumber, _make an excellent Sallet_.
+
+
+17. Mushrom. _Take a Quart of the best White-Wine Vinegar; as much of
+White-Wine, Cloves, Mace, Nutmeg a pretty Quantity, beaten together: Let
+the Spice boil therein to the Consumption of half; then taken off, and
+being cold, pour the Liquour on the_ Mushroms; _but leave out the boiled
+Spice, and cast in of the same sort of Spice whole, the Nutmeg only slit
+in Quarters, with some Limon-Peel, white Pepper; and if you please a
+whole raw Onion, which take out again when it begins to perish_.
+
+
+Another.
+
+
+_The_ Mushroms _peel'd_, &c. _throw them into Water, and then into
+a Sauce-Pan, with some long Pepper, Cloves, Mace, a quarter'd Nutmeg,
+with an Onion, Shallot, or Roccombo-Seed, and a little Salt. Let them
+all boil a quarter of an hour on a very quick Fire: Then take out
+and cold, with a pretty Quantity of the former Spice, boil them in some
+White-Wine; which (being cold) cast upon the_ Mushroms, _and fill up
+the Pot with the best White-Wine, a Bay-Leaf or two, and an Handful of
+Salt: Then cover them with the Liquor; and if for long keeping, pour
+Sallet-Oil over all, tho' they will be preserved a Year without it_.
+
+_They are sometimes boil'd in Salt and Water, with some Milk, and laying
+them in the Colender to drain, till cold, and wiped dry, cast them into
+the Pickle with the White-Wine, Vinegar and Salt, grated Nutmeg, Ginger
+bruised, Cloves, Mace, white Pepper and Limon-Peel; pour the Liquor on
+them cold without boiling_.
+
+
+18. Nasturtium Indicum. _Gather the Buds before they open to flower; lay
+them in the Shade three or four Hours, and putting them into an Earthen
+Glazed Vessel, pour good Vinegar on them, and cover it with a Board.
+Thus letting it stand for eight or ten Days: Then being taken out, and
+gently press'd, cast them into fresh Vinegar, and let them so remain as
+long as before. Repeat this a third time, and Barrel them up with
+Vinegar and a little Salt_.
+
+Orange. _See_ Limon.
+
+
+20. Potato. _The small green Fruit (when about the size of the Wild
+Cherry) being pickled, is an agreeable Sallet. But the Root being
+roasted under the Embers, or otherwise, open'd with a Knife, the Pulp
+is butter'd in the Skin, of which it will take up a good Quantity, and
+is seasoned with a little Salt and Pepper. Some eat them with Sugar
+together in the Skin, which has a pleasant Crimpness. They are also
+stew'd and bak'd in Pyes_, &c.
+
+
+21. Purselan. _Lay the Stalks in an Earthen Pan; then cover them with
+Beer-Vinegar and Water, keeping them down with a competent Weight to
+imbibe, three Days: Being taken out, put them into a Pot with as much
+White-Wine Vinegar as will cover them again; and close the Lid with
+Paste to keep in the Steam: Then set them on the Fire for three or four
+Hours, often shaking and stirring them: Then open the Cover, and turn
+and remove those Stalks which lie at the Bottom, to the Top, and boil
+them as before, till they are all of a Colour. When all is cold, pot
+them with fresh White-Wine Vinegar, and so you may preserve them the
+whole Year round_.
+
+
+22. Radish. _The Seed-Pods of this Root being pickl'd, are a pretty
+Sallet_.
+
+
+23. Sampier. _Let it be gathered about_ Michaelmas _(or the Spring) and
+put two or three hours into a Brine of Water and Salt; then into a clean
+Tin'd Brass Pot, with three parts of strong White-Wine Vinegar, and one
+part of Water and Salt, or as much as will cover the_ Sampier, _keeping
+the Vapour from issuing out, by pasting down the Pot-lid, and so hang
+it over the Fire for half an Hour only. Being taken off, let it remain
+covered till it be cold; and then put it up into small Barrels or Jars,
+with the Liquor, and some fresh Vinegar, Water and Salt; and thus it
+will keep very green. If you be near the Sea, that Water will supply the
+place of Brine. This is the_ Dover _Receit_.
+
+
+24. Walnuts. _Gather the Nuts young, before they begin to harden, but
+not before the Kernel is pretty white: Steep them in as much Water as
+will more than cover them. Then set them on the Fire, and when the water
+boils, and grows black, pour it off, and supply it with fresh, boiling
+it as before, and continuing to shift it till it become clear, and the_
+Nuts _pretty tender: Then let them be put into clean Spring Water for
+two Days, changing it as before with fresh, two or three times within
+this space: Then lay them to drain, and dry on a clean course Cloth,
+and put them up in a Glass Jar, with a few Walnut Leaves, Dill, Cloves,
+Pepper, whole Mace and Salt; strowing them under every Layer of Nuts,
+till the Vessel be three quarters full; and lastly, replenishing it with
+the best Vinegar, keep it well covered; and so they will be fit to spend
+within three Months_.
+
+
+To make a _Mango_ with them.
+
+
+_The green Nuts prepared as before, cover the Bottom of the Jar with
+some Dill, an Handful of Bay-Salt_, &c. _and then a Bed of Nuts;
+and so_ stratum _upon_ stratum, _as above, adding to the Spice some_
+Roccombo-Seeds; _and filling the rest of the Jar with the best
+White-Wine Vinegar, mingled with the best Mustard; and to let them
+remain close covered, during two or three Months time: And thus have you
+a more agreeable_ Mango _than what is brought us from abroad; which you
+may use in any Sauce, and is of it self a rich Condiment_.
+
+
+_Thus far_ Pickles.
+
+
+25. Potage Maigre. _Take four Quarts of Spring-Water, two or three
+Onions stuck with some Cloves, two or three Slices of Limon Peel, Salt,
+whole white Pepper, Mace, a Raze or two of Ginger, tied up in a fine
+Cloth (Lawn or Tiffany) and make all boil for half an Hour; Then having
+Spinage, Sorrel, white Beet-Chard, a little Cabbage, a few small Tops of
+Cives, wash'd and pick'd clean, shred them well, and cast them into the
+Liquor, with a Pint of blue Pease boil'd soft and strain'd, with a Bunch
+of sweet Herbs, the Top and Bottom of a_ French Roll; _and so suffer it
+to boil during three Hours; and then dish it with another small_ French
+Roll, _and Slices about the Dish: Some cut Bread in slices, and frying
+them brown (being dried) put them into the Pottage just as it is going
+to be eaten_.
+
+_The same Herbs, clean wash'd, broken and pulled asunder only, being put
+in a close cover'd Pipkin, without any other Water or Liquor, will stew
+in their own Juice and Moisture. Some add an whole Onion, which after a
+while should be taken out, remembring to season it with Salt and Spice,
+and serve it up with Bread and a Piece of fresh Butter_.
+
+
+26. Pudding _of_ Carrot. _Pare off some of the Crust of Manchet-Bread,
+and grate of half as much of the rest as there is of the Root, which
+must also be grated: Then take half a Pint of fresh Cream or New Milk,
+half a Pound of fresh Butter, six new laid Eggs (taking out three of the
+Whites) mash and mingle them well with the Cream and Butter: Then put
+in the grated Bread and Carrot, with near half a Pound of Sugar; and a
+little Salt; some grated Nutmeg and beaten Spice; and pour all into a
+convenient Dish or Pan, butter'd, to keep the Ingredients from sticking
+and burning; set it in a quick Oven for about an Hour, and so have you
+a Composition for any_ Root-Pudding.
+
+
+27. Penny-royal. _The Cream, Eggs, Spice_, &c. _as above, but not so
+much Sugar and Salt: Take a pretty Quantity of Peny-royal and Marigold
+flower_, &c. _very well shred, and mingle with the Cream, Eggs_, &c.
+_four spoonfuls of Sack; half a Pint more of Cream, and almost a Pound
+of Beef-Suet chopt very small, the Gratings of a Two-penny Loaf, and
+stirring all well together, put it into a Bag flower'd and tie it fast.
+It will be boil'd within an Hour: Or may be baked in the Pan like the_
+Carrot-Pudding. _The sauce is for both, a little Rose-water, less
+Vinegar, with Butter beaten together and poured on it sweetned with the
+Sugar Caster_.
+
+_Of this Plant discreetly dried, is made a most wholsom and excellent
+Tea_.
+
+
+28. _Of_ Spinage. _Take a sufficient Quantity of_ Spinach, _stamp and
+strain out the Juice; put to it grated Manchet, the Yolk of as many Eggs
+as in the former Composition of the_ Carrot-Pudding; _some Marrow shred
+small, Nutmeg, Sugar, some Corinths, (if you please) a few Carroways,
+Rose, or Orange-flower Water (as you best like) to make it grateful.
+Mingle all with a little boiled Cream; and set the Dish or Pan in the
+Oven, with a Garnish of Puff-Paste. It will require but very moderate
+Baking. Thus have you Receits for_ Herb Puddings.
+
+
+29. Skirret-Milk _Is made by boiling the Roots tender, and the Pulp
+strained out, put into Cream or new Milk boiled, with three or four
+Yolks of Eggs, Sugar, large Mace and other Spice_, &c. _And thus is
+composed any other Root-Milk_. _See_ Acetar. p. 42.
+
+
+30. Tansie. _Take the Gratings or Slices of three Naples-Biscuits, put
+them into half a Pint of Cream; with twelve fresh Eggs, four of the
+Whites cast out, strain the rest, and break them with two Spoonfuls of
+Rose-water, a little Salt and Sugar, half a grated Nutmeg: And when
+ready for the Pan, put almost a Pint of the Juice of Spinach, Cleaver,
+Beets, Corn-Sallet, Green Corn, Violet, or Primrose tender Leaves,
+(for of any of these you may take your choice) with a very small Sprig
+of Tansie, and let it be fried so as to look green in the Dish, with a
+Strew of Sugar and store of the Juice of Orange: some affect to have
+it fryed a little brown and crisp_.
+
+
+31. Tart _of_ Herbs. _An_ Herb-Tart _is made thus: Boil fresh Cream or
+Milk, with a little grated Bread or_ Naples-Biscuit _(which is better)
+to thicken it; a pretty Quantity of Chervile, Spinach, Beete (or what
+other Herb you please) being first par-boil'd and chop'd. Then add_
+Macaron, _or Almonds beaten to a Paste, a little sweet Butter, the Yolk
+of five Eggs, three of the Whites rejected. To these some add Corinths
+plump'd in Milk, or boil'd therein, Sugar, Spice at Discretion, and
+stirring it all together over the Fire, bake it in the Tart-Pan_.
+
+
+32. Thistle. _Take the long Stalks of the middle Leaf of the_
+Milky-Thistle, _about_ May, _when they are young and tender: wash and
+scrape them, and boil them in Water, with a little Salt, till they are
+very soft, and so let them lie to drain. They are eaten with fresh
+Butter melted not too thin, and is a delicate and wholsome Dish. Other
+Stalks of the same kind may so be treated, as the_ Bur, _being tender
+and disarmed of its Prickles_, &c.
+
+
+33. Trufles, _and other_ Tubers, _and_ Boleti, _are roasted whole in
+the_ Embers; _then slic'd and stew'd in strong Broth with Spice_, &c.
+_as_ Mushroms _are. Vide_ Acetar. p. 28.
+
+
+34. Turnep. _Take their Stalks (when they begin to run up to seed) as
+far as they will easily break downwards: Peel and tie them in Bundles.
+Then boiling them as they do_ Sparagus, _are to be eaten with melted
+Butter. Lastly_,
+
+
+35. Minc'd, _or_ Sallet-all-sorts.
+
+_Take Almonds blanch'd in cold Water, cut them round and thin, and
+so leave them in the_ _Water; Then have pickl'd Cucumbers, Olives,
+Cornelians, Capers, Berberries, Red-Beet, Buds of_ Nasturtium, _Broom_,
+&c. _Purslan-stalk, Sampier, Ash-Keys, Walnuts, Mushrooms (and almost
+of all the pickl'd Furniture) with Raisins of the Sun ston'd, Citron
+and Orange-Peel, Corinths (well cleansed and dried)_ &c. _mince them
+severally (except the Corinths) or all together; and strew them over
+with any Candy'd Flowers, and so dispose of them in the same Dish both
+mixt, and by themselves. To these add roasted_ Maroons, Pistachios,
+Pine-Kernels, _and of Almonds four times as much as of the rest, with
+some Rose-water. Here also come in the Pickled Flowers and Vinegar in
+little_ China _Dishes. And thus have you an Universal_ Winter-Sallet,
+_or an_ All sort _in Compendium, fitted for a City Feast, and
+distinguished from the_ Grand-Sallet: _which shou'd consist of the Green
+blanch'd and unpickled, under a stately_ Pennash _of_ Sellery, _adorn'd
+with Buds and Flowers_.
+
+
+_And thus have we presented you a Taste of our_ English Garden
+Housewifry _in the matter of_ Sallets: _And though some of them may be
+Vulgar, (as are most of the best things;) Yet she was willing to impart
+them, to shew the Plenty, Riches and Variety of the_ Sallet-Garden:
+_And to justifie what has been asserted of the Possibility of living
+(not unhappily) on_ Herbs _and_ Plants, _according to_ Original _and_
+Divine Institution, _improved by Time and long Experience. And if we have
+admitted_ Mushroms _among the rest (contrary to our Intention, and for
+Reasons given_, Acet. p. 43.) _since many will by no means abandon them,
+we have endeavoured to preserve them from those pernicious Effects which
+are attributed to, and really in them: We cannot tell indeed whether
+they were so treated and accommodated for the most Luxurious of the_
+Caesarean Tables, _when that Monarchy was in its highest Strain of_
+Epicurism, _and ingross'd this_ Haugout _for their second Course; whilst
+this we know, that 'tis but what_ Nature _affords all her Vagabonds
+under every Hedge_.
+
+_And now, that our_ Sallets _may not want a Glass of generous Wine of
+the same Growth with the rest of the Garden to recommend it, let us have
+your Opinion of the following_.
+
+
+Cowslip-Wine. _To every Gallon of Water put two Pounds of_ Sugar; _boil
+it an Hour, and set it to cool: Then spread a good brown_ Toast _on both
+Sides with Yeast: But before you make use of it, beat some Syrup of_
+Citron _with it, an Ounce and half of Syrup to each Gallon of Liquor:
+Then put in the_ Toast _whilst hot, to assist its_ Fermentation, _which
+will cease in two Days; during which time cast in the_ Cowslip-Flowers
+_(a little bruised, but not much stamp'd) to the Quantity of half a
+Bushel to ten Gallons (or rather three Pecks) four_ Limons _slic'd, with
+the Rinds and all. Lastly, one Pottle of_ White _or_ Rhenish Wine; _and
+then after two Days, tun it up in a sweet Cask. Some leave out all the
+Syrup_.
+
+_And here, before we conclude, since there is nothing of more constant
+Use than good Vinegar; or that has so near an Affinity to all our_
+Acetaria, _we think it not amiss to add the following (much approved)
+Receit_.
+
+Vinegar. _To every Gallon of Spring Water let there be allowed three
+Pounds of_ Malaga-Raisins: _Put them in an Earthen Jarr, and place them
+where they may have the hottest Sun, from_ May till Michaelmas: _Then
+pressing them well, Tun the Liquor up in a very strong Iron-Hooped
+Vessel to prevent its bursting. It will appear very thick and muddy when
+newly press'd, but will refine in the Vessel, and be as clear as Wine.
+Thus let it remain untouched for three Months, before it be drawn off,
+and it will prove Excellent_ Vinegar.
+
+Butter. Butter _being likewise so frequent and necessary an Ingredient
+to divers of the foregoing_ Appendants: _It should be carefully melted,
+that it turn not to an Oil; which is prevented by melting it leisurely,
+with a little fair Water at the Bottom of the Dish or Pan; and by
+continual shaking and stirring, kept from boiling or over-heating, which
+makes it rank_.
+
+_Other rare and exquisite_ Liquors _and Teas (Products of our_ Gardens
+_only) we might super-add, which we leave to our_ Lady Housewives,
+_whose Province indeed all this while it is_.
+
+
+_THE END_
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+The Table
+
+
+  _Abstemious Persons who eat no Flesh, nor were under Vows_, 104
+
+  Abstersives, 42
+
+  ACETARIA, _Criticisms on the Word, how they differ from Olera, &c._, 1
+
+  Achilles, 77
+
+  Acids, 63
+
+  Adam _and_ Eve _lived on Vegetables and Plants_, 94
+
+  Africans _eat_ Capsicum Indicum, 34
+
+  _Aged Persons_, 44;
+    _Sallet-Eaters_, 80
+
+  _Agues_, 81
+
+  _Air_, 80
+
+  Alliaria, 19
+
+  _Ale_, 15
+
+  Alleluja, 47
+
+  Alexanders, 5
+
+  Allium, 18
+
+  _Altar dedicated to Lettuce_, 21
+
+  Anagallis, 9
+
+  Annaeus Serenus _poisoned by Mushroms_, 27
+
+  _Anatomy, Comparative_, 90
+
+  Antecoenia, 74
+
+  Antediluvians _eat no Flesh for_ 2000 _years_, 80
+
+  Aparine, 12
+
+  _Aperitives_, 10
+
+  _Appetite_, 21;
+    _How to subdue_, 98
+
+  Apician _Luxury_, 103
+
+  Apium, 35;
+    Italicum, 41
+
+  _Aromatics_, 13
+
+  _Artichoaks_, 5
+
+  Arum Theophrasti, 48
+
+  Ascalonia, 41
+
+  Ascetics, 106
+
+  _Asparagus_, 43;
+    _preferable to the_ Dutch, 43;
+    _how to cover in Winter without Dung_, 87
+
+  Asphodel, 23
+
+  _Astringents_, 9
+
+  _Asthmatical_, 31
+
+  Assa foetida, 52
+
+  Atriplex, 32
+
+  Augustus, 21
+
+  _Autumn_, 71
+
+
+B.
+
+  Barlaeus's _Description Poetic of a Sallet Collation_, 113
+
+  _Basil_, 7
+
+  _Baulm_, 7
+
+  _Beere_, 15
+
+  _Beet_, 7, 79
+
+  _Benzoin_, 51
+
+  _Bile_, 36
+
+  _Blite_, 8
+
+  _Blood to purifie_, 8;
+    _Eating it prohibited_, 100
+
+  Boletus, 26
+
+  _Books of_ Botany, 54;
+    _to be read with caution where they write of Edule Plants_, ib.
+
+  _Borrage_, 8
+
+  _Bowels_, 58
+
+  _Brain_, 7, 38
+
+  Bramins, 97
+
+  Brandy _and Exotic Liquors pernicious_, 93
+
+  _Bread and Sallet sufficient for Life_, 2;
+    _Made of Turnips_, 46
+
+  _Breast_, 19
+
+  Broccoli, 10
+
+  _Brook lime_, 9
+
+  _Broth_, 19
+
+  _Brute Animals much healthier than Men, why_, 91
+
+  _Buds_, 9
+
+  _Buglos_, 9
+
+  Bulbo Castanum, 15
+
+  Buphthalmum, 15
+
+  _Burnet_, 35
+
+  _Butter_, 64
+
+
+C.
+
+  Cabbage, 10
+
+  Capsicum Indicum, 34
+
+  Cardialgia, 34
+
+  Carduus Sativus, 5
+
+  Cardon, Spanish, 6
+
+  _Carnivorous Animals_, 89
+
+  _Carrots_, 11
+
+  _Cattel relish of their Pasture and Food_, 86;
+    _Vide Fowl_.
+
+  _Cauly flower_, 11
+
+  Cepae, 31
+
+  _Cephalics_, 30
+
+  Chaeriphyllum, 12
+
+  Champignons, 26;
+    _Vide_ Mushroms.
+
+  _Chastity_, 21
+
+  _Children chuse to eat Fruit before other Meat_, 94
+
+  _Christians abstaining from eating Flesh_, 97
+
+  _Choler_, 20
+
+  _Church Catholics Future Glory predicted_, 115
+
+  Cibarium, 63
+
+  Cicuta, 48
+
+  Cinara, 5
+
+  _Clary_, 12
+
+  Claudius Caesar, 27
+
+  _Claver_, 12
+
+  _Cleansing_, 44
+
+  _Climate_, 80
+
+  Cochlearia, 41;
+    _vide Scurvy-Grass_.
+
+  _Cooks_, 77;
+    _Physicians to Emperors and Popes_, 55;
+    _vide_ Heroes.
+
+  _Collation of Sallet, Extemporary_, 73
+
+  _Cold_, 16
+
+  _Cooling_, 33
+
+  _Complexion_, 84
+
+  _Composing, and Composer of Sallets_, 71
+
+  _Compotation_, 74
+
+  _Concession to eat Flesh, since which Mens Lives shortned_, 97
+
+  _Concoction_, 18
+
+  Condiments, 64;
+    _vide_ Sauce.
+
+  _Conscience_, 98
+
+  _Consent; vide Harmony_.
+
+  _Constitution of Body_, 57
+
+  Consuls _and Great Persons supt in their Garden_, 121
+
+  _Contemplative Persons_, 104
+
+  Convictus Facilis, 117
+
+  _Cordials_, 7
+
+  _Coriander_, 49
+
+  _Corrago_, 9
+
+  _Correctives_, 82
+
+  _Corn, what Ground most proper for it_, 86
+
+  _Corn Sallet_, 12
+
+  _Corroboratives_, 52
+
+  _Corpulency_, 82
+
+  _Cowslips_, 13
+
+  _Cresses_, 13
+
+  Crithmum, 40
+
+  _Crudities_, 26
+
+  _Cruelty in butchering Animals for Food_, 99
+
+  _Cucumber_, 13
+
+  _Culture, its Effects_, 42
+
+  _Custom_, 81;
+    _Of Sallet Herbs, how great a Revenue to_ Rome, 119
+
+
+D.
+
+  _Daffodil_, 48
+
+  _Daisie_, 15
+
+  _Dandelion_, 15
+
+  Dapes Inemptae, 116
+
+  Dauci, 11
+
+  _Decay in Nature, none_, 106
+
+  _Decoction_, 19
+
+  _Deobstructions_, 5
+
+  Deorum filii, 26
+
+  _Distinction of Meats abrogated_, 94
+
+  _Detersives_, 8
+
+  _Dishes for Sallets_, 69
+
+  _Dissimilar Parts of Animals require Variety of Food_, 89
+
+  _Diuretics_, 19
+
+  _Dock_, 15
+
+  _Dogs Mercury_, 54
+
+  Domitian _Emp._, 74
+
+  Draco herba, 45
+
+  _Dressing of Sallets_, vide _Sallet_.
+
+  _Dry Plants_, 17
+
+  _Dung_, 85;
+    _Sallets rais'd on it undigested_, 86
+
+
+E.
+
+  Earth, _whether much altered since the Flood_, 81;
+    _about great Cities, produces rank and unwholsome Sallets_, 85
+
+  _Earth-Nuts_, 15
+
+  _Eggs_, 68
+
+  _Elder_, 16
+
+  _Emollients_, 15
+
+  _Endive_, 16
+
+  _Epicurism_, 99
+
+  _Eremit's_, vide _Monks_.
+
+  _Eruca_, 39
+
+  _Eructation_, 38
+
+  Eruditae gulae, 77
+
+  _Escalons_, 31
+
+  _Eternity_, vide _Patriarchs_.
+
+  Eupeptics, 58
+
+  Euphrosyne, 9
+
+  _Excess_, 72
+
+  _Exhilarate_, 7
+
+  _Exotic Drinks and Sauces dangerous_, 90
+
+  _Experience_, 83
+
+  _Eyes_, 7, vide _Sight_.
+
+
+F.
+
+  Fabrorum prandia, 8
+
+  _Fainting_, 47
+
+  _Families enobl'd by names of Sallet Plants_, 20
+
+  _Farcings_, 35
+
+  Fascicule, 70
+
+  _Fevers_, 20
+
+  _Felicity of the Hortulan Life_, 122
+
+  _Fennel_, 17
+
+  _Flatulents_, 33
+
+  Flesh, _none eaten during 2000 years. Flesh eaters not so ingenious as
+    Sallet eaters: unapt for Study and Bussiness; shortens Life; how all
+    Flesh is Grass_, 94
+
+  _Flowers_, 17
+
+  Foliatorum ordo, 105
+
+  _Fowl relish of their Food_, 86
+
+  _Food. No Necessity of different Food_, 90;
+    _The simplest best_, 92;
+    _Man's original Food_, 93
+
+  _Fools unfit to gather Sallets contrary to the_ Italian _Proverb_, 61
+
+  _Friers_, vide _Monks_.
+
+  Frigidae Mensae, 82
+
+  _Frugality of the ancient_ Romans, _&c._, 21
+
+  _Fruit_, 75;
+    _not reckon'd among Sallets_, 76;
+    _not degenerated since the Flood, where industry is us'd_, 104
+
+  Fugaces fructus, 74
+
+  Fungus, 26, vide _Mushroms_.
+
+  Fungus reticularis, 27
+
+  _Furniture and Ingredients of Sallets_, 61
+
+
+G.
+
+  Galen _Lover of Lettuce_, 21
+
+  _Gardiner's happy Life_, 113;
+    _Entertain Heroes and great Persons_, 115
+
+  _Garlick_, 18
+
+  _Garnishing_, 8
+
+  _Gatherers of Sallets should be skilful Herbarists_, 71
+
+  Gemmae, 9, _vide_ Buds.
+
+  _Gerkems_, 15, _vide Cucumber_.
+
+  _Ginny-Pepper_, 78
+
+  _Goats beard_, 18
+
+  _Golden Age_, 99
+
+  Gordian _Emp._, 82
+
+  Gramen Amygdalosum, 48
+
+  _Grand Sallet_, 42
+
+  _Grass_, 82
+
+  _Grillus_, 56
+
+  _Gymnosophists_, 97
+
+
+H.
+
+  _Habits difficult to overcome, applied to Flesh-Eaters_, 98
+
+  Haeredium _of old_, 123
+
+  Halimus, 36
+
+  _Harmony in mixing Sallet Ingredients as Notes in Musick_, 60
+
+  Hautgout, 77
+
+  _Head_, 40, _vide Cephalicks_.
+
+  _Heart_, 42, _vide Cordials_.
+
+  Heliotrop, 49
+
+  _Hemlock_, 54
+
+  _Herbaceous Animals know by instinct what Herbs are proper for them
+    better than Men_, 56;
+    _and excel them in most of the senses_, ib.
+
+  _Herbals_, vide _Books_.
+
+  _Herbs, crude, whether wholsome_, 80;
+    _What proper for Sallets_, 70;
+    _Their Qualities and Vertues to be examined_, 82;
+    _Herby Diet most Natural_, 98
+
+  Heroes _of old skill'd in Cookery_, 77
+
+  Hippocrates _condemns Radish_, 37;
+    _That Men need only Vegetables_, 106
+
+  Hipposelinum, 5
+
+  Holyhoc, 24
+
+  _Honey_, 14
+
+  _Hops_, 19
+
+  Horarii fructus, 74
+
+  Horminum, 12
+
+  _Horses not so diseased as Men_, 91;
+    _Recompens'd by some Masters for long Service_, 91
+
+  _Horse-Radish_, 38
+
+  _Hortulan Provision most plentiful of any, advantageous, universal,
+    natural, &c._, 110
+
+  _Hot Plants_, 8
+
+  _Hot Beds, how unwholsome for Salleting_, 85
+
+  _House-wife had charge of the Kitchin Garden_, 119
+
+  _Humours_, 57
+
+  _Hypochondria_, 9
+
+  _Hysop_, 19
+
+
+I.
+
+  _Ilander_, 58;
+    _obnoxious to the Scorbute_, ib.
+
+  _Indigestion_, 38
+
+  _Ingredients_, 4, vide _Furniture_.
+
+  _Insects_, 28
+
+  Intuba Sativa, 16
+
+  Israelites _Love of Onions_, 32
+
+
+J.
+
+  _Jack-by-the-Hedge_, 19
+
+  John _the_ Baptist, 106
+
+  Justin Martyr _concerning the eating of Blood_, 101
+
+
+K.
+
+  _Knife for cutting Sallets_, 68
+
+  _Kitchen Garden_, 119, vide Potagere.
+
+
+L.
+
+  Lapathum, 24
+
+  Laserpitium, 51
+
+  Latet anguis in herba, 115
+
+  _Laws_, 116
+
+  _Laxatives_, 7
+
+  _Leeks_, 20
+
+  Legumena, 73
+
+  _Lettuce_, 20
+
+  _Limon_, 23
+
+  _Liver_, 13
+
+  _Longaevity_, 81
+
+  Lotophagi, 106
+
+  _Lungs_, 20
+
+  Lupulus, 19
+
+  _Luxury_, 81
+
+  Lysimachia Seliquosa glabra, 49
+
+  Lyster, _Dr._, 56
+
+
+M.
+
+  Macarons, 49
+
+  Majoran, 19
+
+  _Mallows_, 23
+
+  Malvae folium sanctissimum, ib.
+
+  _Man before the Fall knew the Vertues of Plants_, 83;
+    _Unbecoming his Dignity to butcher the innocent Animal for Food_, 94;
+    _Not by nature carnivorous_, 111;
+    _Not lapsed so soon as generally thought_, 95
+
+  _Marygold_, 19
+
+  _Masculine Vigour_, 52
+
+  Materia medica, 65
+
+  _Materials for Sallets_, vide _Furniture_.
+
+  Maximinus _an egregious Glutton, Sallet-hater_, 121
+
+  _Meats commend not to God_, 99
+
+  _Medals of_ Battus _with_ Silphium _on the reverse_, 51
+
+  Melissa, 7
+
+  _Melon, how cultivated by the Ancients_, 24
+
+  _Memory to assist_, 7
+
+  _Mints_, 25
+
+  Mithacus, _a Culinary Philosopher_, 77
+
+  _Mixture_, 57
+
+  _Moist_, 9
+
+  _Monks and Friers perstring'd for their idle unprofitable Life_, 107
+    & _seqq._
+
+  Morocco _Ambassador_, 43; _Lover of Sow-thistles_.
+
+  Mortuorum cibi _Mushroms_, 20
+
+  Mosaical _Customs_, 94;
+    Moses _gave only a summary account of the Creation, sufficient for
+      instruction, not Curiosity_, 102
+
+  _Mushroms_, 26;
+    _Pernicious Accidents of eating them_, 26;
+    _How produced artificially_, 29
+
+  _Mustard_, 30
+
+  _Myrrh_, 12
+
+  _Myrtil-Berries_, 35
+
+
+N.
+
+  Napus, 46
+
+  Nasturtium, 13;
+    Indicum, 41
+
+  _Nature invites all to Sallets_, 111
+
+  Nepenthes, 9
+
+  _Nerves_, 54
+
+  _Nettle_, 30
+
+  _Nigard_, 61
+
+  _Nourishing_, 5
+
+
+O.
+
+  _Obstructions_, 16
+
+  _Ocimum_, 7
+
+  Olera, _what properly, how distinguish'd from Acetaria_, 1, 2
+
+  Oluscula, 4
+
+  _Onion_, 31;
+    _What vast Quantities spent in_ Egypt, 32
+
+  _Opening_, 16
+
+  Orach, 32
+
+  _Orange_, 23
+
+  Ornithogallon, 48
+
+  Oxalis, 42
+
+  Oxylapathum, 15
+
+  _Oyl, how to choose_, 63;
+    _Its diffusive Nature_, 69
+
+
+P.
+
+  _Painters_, 50
+
+  _Palpitation_, 47
+
+  _Palsie_, 30
+
+  _Panacea_, 10
+
+  Paradisian _Entertainment_, 122
+
+  Paralysis, 13
+
+  _Parsnip_, 33
+
+  Pastinaca Sativa, 11
+
+  _Patriarchs_, 93;
+    _Their Long Lives a Shadow of Eternity_, 96
+
+  _Peach said to be Poison in_ Persia, _a Fable_, 87
+
+  _Peas_, 33
+
+  _Pectorals_, 58
+
+  _Pepper_, 33;
+    _Beaten too small, hurtful to the Stomach_, 34
+
+  _Persly_, 35;
+    _Sacred to the Defunct_, ib.
+
+  _Philosophers_, 56
+
+  _Phlegm_, 30
+
+  _Pickle_, 72;
+    _What Sallet Plants proper for Pickles_, ib., _vide Appendix_.
+
+  _Pig-Nuts_, 28
+
+  _Pimpernel_, 9
+
+  _Plants, their Vertue_, 59;
+    _Variety_, 114;
+    _Nourishment_, 83;
+    _No living at all without them_, 110;
+    _Plants infect by looking on_, 57;
+    _When in prime_, 71;
+    _how altered by the Soil and Culture_, 84;
+    _Not degenerated since the Flood_, 105
+
+  Platonic _Tables_, 97
+
+  _Pleurisie_, 81
+
+  _Poiverade_, 7
+
+  _Poppy_, 48
+
+  Porrum, 20
+
+  Postdiluvians, 93
+
+  _Potage_, 5
+
+  Potagere, 119
+
+  _Pot-Herbs_, 19
+
+  _Poyson_, 18
+
+  _Praecoce Plants not so wholsome artificially rais'd_, 85
+
+  _Preparation to the dressing of Sallets_, 10
+
+  _Prodigal_, 61
+
+  _Pugil_, 70
+
+  _Punishment_, 18
+
+  _Purslan_, 36
+
+  _Putrefaction_, 33
+
+  Pythagoras, 97
+
+
+Q.
+
+  _Quality and Vertue of Plants_, 53. _See Plants_.
+
+
+R.
+
+  _Radish_, 37;
+    _of Gold dedicated at_ Delphi, 37;
+    Moschius _wrote a whole Volume in praise of them_, ib.;
+    Hippocrates _condemns them_, ib.
+
+  Raphanus Rusticanus _Horse Radish_, 38
+
+  Radix Lunaria, 48;
+    Personata, 49
+
+  Ragout, 28
+
+  _Rampion_, 39
+
+  _Rapum_, 46
+
+  _Ray, Mr._, 55
+
+  _Refreshing_, 13
+
+  _Restaurative_, 5
+
+  _Rocket_, 39
+
+  _Roccombo_, 18
+
+  Roman _Sallet_, 112;
+    _Lux_, 115
+
+  _Rosemary_, 39
+
+  _Roots_, 37
+
+  _Rhue_, 49
+
+
+S.
+
+
+  _Saffron_, 68
+
+  _Sage_, 39
+
+  _Sallets, what, how improved, whence so called_, 3;
+    _Ingredients_, 4;
+    _Variety and Store above what the Ancients had_, 112;
+    _Bills of Fare_, 112;
+    _Skill in choosing, gathering, composing and dressing_, 48;
+    _found in the Crops of Foul_, 62;
+    _what formerly in use, now abdicated_, 49;
+    _extemporary Sallets_, 87;
+    _Whether best to begin or conclude with Sallets_, 73
+
+  Salade de Preter, 13
+
+  _Salt_, 64;
+    _What best for Sallets_, 64;
+    _Salts Essential, and of Vegetables_, 65
+
+  Sambucus, 16
+
+  _Sampier_, 40
+
+  _Sanguine_, 36
+
+  Sarcophagists, 56
+
+  _Sauce_, 39
+
+  _Savoys_, 11
+
+  _Scallions_, 41
+
+  Scorbute, vide _Scurvy_.
+
+  _Scurvy-Grass_, 41
+
+  _Scurvy_, 9
+
+  _Season_, 71
+
+  _Seasoning_, 79, vide _Sallet_.
+
+  Sedum minus, 45, _vide_ Stone-Crop.
+
+  _Sellery_, 41
+
+  Seneca, 98
+
+  _Shambles_, 77
+
+  _Sight_, 50, vide _Eyes_.
+
+  Silphium, 50;
+    _How precious and sacred_, 51
+
+  _Simples_, 49
+
+  _Sinapi_, 30
+
+  _Sisarum_, 42
+
+  _Skirrits_, ib.
+
+  _Sleep, to procure_, 21
+
+  _Smallage_, 41
+
+  _Smut in Wheat_, 86
+
+  Syrenium Vulgare, 5
+
+  _Snails, safe Tasters_, 56
+
+  _Sonchus_, 43
+
+  _Sordidness_, 87
+
+  _Sorrel_, 42
+
+  _Sow-thistle_, vide Sonchus.
+
+  _Specificks, few yet discovered_, 83
+
+  _Spleen_, 10
+
+  _Spinach_, 12
+
+  _Spirits, cherishing and reviving_, 9
+
+  _Spring_, 71
+
+  _Stomach_, 16
+
+  _Stone_, 9
+
+  _Stone-Crop_, 44
+
+  _Strowings_, 67
+
+  _Students_, 9
+
+  _Succory_, 44
+
+  _Sugar_, 14
+
+  _Summer_, 84
+
+  _Sumptuary Laws_, 116
+
+  _Swearing_ per Brassicam, 11
+
+  _Swine used to find out Truffles and Earth-Nuts_, 28
+
+
+T.
+
+  _Table of Species, Culture, Proportion and dressing of Sallets,
+    according to the Season_, 70
+
+  Tacitus, _Emp. Temperance_, 21
+
+  _Tansie_, 44
+
+  _Tarragon_, 45
+
+  _Taste should be exquisite in the Composer of Sallets_, 60
+
+  _Tea_, 17, vide Appendix.
+
+  _Temper_, 81
+
+  _Temperance_, 21
+
+  _Teeth_, 37
+
+  Theriacle, _vide Garlick_.
+
+  _Thirst, to asswage_, 33
+
+  _Thistle_, 45
+
+  _Thyme_, 19, vide _Pot-herbs_.
+
+  Tiberius Caes., 42
+
+  Tragopogon, 47
+
+  _Transmigration_, 56
+
+  _Tribute paid to Roots_, 42
+
+  Truffles, 28
+
+  Tubera, 28
+
+  _Tulip eaten that cost_ 100 _l._, 47
+
+  Turiones, 9
+
+  _Turnip_, 46;
+    _Made a Fish_, 113
+
+
+V.
+
+  _Vapours to repress_, 21
+
+  _Variety necessary and proper_, 92
+
+  _Ventricle_, 20, vide _Stomach_.
+
+  _Vine_, 47
+
+  _Vinegar_, 63; vide Appendix.
+
+  _Viper-Grass_, 47
+
+  _Vertues of Sallet Plants and Furniture_, 57;
+    _Consist in the several and different Parts of the same Plant_, 49
+
+  Voluptuaria Venena, 28
+
+
+U.
+
+  Urtica, 30
+
+
+W.
+
+  _Welsh, prolifick_, 20
+
+  _Wind_, 17
+
+  _Wine_, 7; vide _Appendix_.
+
+  _Winter Sallets_, 7; vide _Appendix_.
+
+  _Wood-Sorrel_, 47
+
+  _Worms in Fennel, and Sellery_, 17
+
+  _Wormwood_, 49
+
+
+Y.
+
+  _Youth to preserve_, 85
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+FOOTNOTES
+
+
+[Footnote 1: _Lord Viscount_ Brouncker, _Chancellor to the Late Qu.
+Consort, now_ Dowager. _The Right Honourable_ Cha. Montague, _Esq;
+Chancellor of the_ Exchequer.]
+
+[Footnote 2: _Si quid temporis a civilibus negotiis quibis totum jam
+intenderat animum, suffurari potuit, colendis agris, priscos illos
+Romanos_ Numam Pompilium, Cincinnatum, Catonem, Fabios, Cicerones,
+_aliosque virtute claros viros imitare; qui in magno honore constituti,
+vites putare, stercorare agros, & irrigare nequaquam turpe & inhone stum
+putarunt_. In Vit. _Plin._ 2.]
+
+[Footnote 3: Ut hujusmodi historiam vix dum incohatum, non ante
+absolvendam putem.
+
+Exitio terras quam dabit una dies. _D. Raius_ Praefat. Hist. Plan.]
+
+[Footnote 4: Olera a frigidis distinct. _See_ Spartianus in Pescennio.
+Salmas. in Jul. Capitolin.]
+
+[Footnote 5:
+
+  Panis erat primis virides mortalibus Herbae;
+    Quas tellus nullo sollicitante dabat.
+  Et modo carpebant vivaci cespite gramen;
+    Nunc epulae tenera fronde cacumen erant.
+
+Ovid, Fastor. IV.]
+
+[Footnote 6: [Greek: kaloumen gar lachana ta oros ten hemeneran
+chreian], Theophrast. Plant. 1. VII. cap. 7.]
+
+[Footnote 7: Gen. I. 29.]
+
+[Footnote 8: Plutarch Sympos.]
+
+[Footnote 9: Salmas. in Solin. _against_ Hieron. Mercurialis.]
+
+[Footnote 10: Galen. 2R. Aliment. cap. l. Et Simp. Medic. Averroes, lib.
+V. Golloc.]
+
+[Footnote 11: Plin. lib. XIX. c. 4.]
+
+[Footnote 12: Convictus facilis, fine arte mensa. Mart. Ep. 74.]
+
+[Footnote 13: [Greek: Apuron trophui], _which_ Suidas _calls_ [Greek:
+lachana], Olera quae cruda sumuntur ex Aceto. Harduin in loc.]
+
+[Footnote 14: Plin. H. Nat. _lib. xix. cap. 8._]
+
+[Footnote 15: _De_ R.R. _cap. clvii_.]
+
+[Footnote 16: [Greek: 'Ephthos, dosikuos, apalos, aluos, ouretikos].
+Athen.]
+
+[Footnote 17: Cucumis elixus delicatior, innocentior. Athenaeus.]
+
+[Footnote 18: Eubulus.]
+
+[Footnote 19: In Lactuca occultatum a Venere Adonin cecinit
+_Callimachus_, quod Allegorice interpretatus _Athenaeus_ illuc referendum
+putat, quod in Venerem hebetiores fiant Lactucis vescentes assidue.]
+
+[Footnote 20: Apud Sueton.]
+
+[Footnote 21: Vopiseus Tacit. _For the rest both of the Kinds and
+Vertues_ of Lettuce, _See_ Plin. H. Nat. _l. xix. c. 8. and xx. c. 7_.
+Fernel. &c.]
+
+[Footnote 22: De Legib.]
+
+[Footnote 23: _Hor_. Epod. II.]
+
+[Footnote 24: De Simp. Medic. L. vii.]
+
+[Footnote 25: _Lib._ ii. _cap._ 3.]
+
+[Footnote 26: Exoneraturas Ventrem mihi Villica Malvas Attulit, &
+varias, quas habet hortus, Opes.
+
+_Mart. Lib. x._
+
+_And our sweet Poet_:
+
+  ----Nulla est humanior herba,
+  Nulla magis suavi commoditate bona est,
+  Omnia tam placide regerat, blandequerelaxat,
+  Emollitque vias, nec sinit esse rudes.
+
+Cowl. _Plan._ L. 4.]
+
+[Footnote 27: Cic _ad Attic_.]
+
+[Footnote 28: Sueton _in Claudi._]
+
+[Footnote 29: Sen. Ep. lxiii.]
+
+[Footnote 30: Plin. N.H. _l. xxi_. c. 23.]
+
+[Footnote 31: Transact. Philos. _Num._ 202.]
+
+[Footnote 32: Apitius, _lib. vii. cap. 13_.]
+
+[Footnote 33: Philos. Transact. _Num._ 69. _Journey to_ Paris.]
+
+[Footnote 34: Pratensibus optima fungis Natura est: aliis male creditur.
+_Hor. Sat. l. 7. Sat. 4._]
+
+[Footnote 35: Bacon _Nat. Hist._ 12. Cent. vii. 547, 548, &c.]
+
+[Footnote 36: Gaffend. _Vita Peirs._ l. iv. Raderus _Mart._ l. Epig.
+xlvi. In ponticum--_says, within four Days_.]
+
+[Footnote 37: O Sanctas gentes, quibus haec nascuntur in hortis
+Numina****---- _Juv. Sat. 15._]
+
+[Footnote 38: Herodotus.]
+
+[Footnote 39: [Greek: hora to rhadios phaines], quia tertio a fatu die
+appareat.]
+
+[Footnote 40: De diaeta _lib._ ii. _cap._ 25.]
+
+[Footnote 41: De Aliment. Facult. _lib._ ii.]
+
+[Footnote 42: _Philos. Transact._ Vol. xvii. Num. 205. p. 970.]
+
+[Footnote 43: _Plin._ H. Nat. Lib. xix. cap. 3. & xx. c. 22. See Jo.
+Tzetzes Chil. vi. 48. & xvii. 119.]
+
+[Footnote 44: Spanheim, De usu & Praest. Numis. Dissert. 4to. _It was
+sometimes also the Reverse_ of Jupiter Hammon.]
+
+[Footnote 45:
+  [Greek: oud an eidoies ge moi]
+  [Greek: Ton plouton auton k- to Bat-ou silphion].
+  _Aristoph_. in Pluto. Act. iv. Sc. 3.]
+
+[Footnote 46: _Of which some would have it a courser sort_ inamoeni
+odoris, _as the same Comedian names it in his_ Equites, _p. 239. and
+240_. Edit. Basil. _See likewise this discuss'd, together with its
+Properties, most copiously, in_ Jo. Budaeus _a_ Stapul. _Comment. in_
+Theophrast. lib. vi. cap. 1. _and_ Bauhin. _Hist. Plant._ lib. xxvii.
+cap. 53.]
+
+[Footnote 47: Vide _Cardanum_ de usu Cibi.]
+
+[Footnote 48: _Vol._ xx.]
+
+[Footnote 49: Cowley:
+
+  [Greek: Oud oson in malache te k- asphodelo meg oneiar]
+  [Greek: Krupsantes gar echousi theoi Bion anthropoisi.]
+  Hesiod.]
+
+[Footnote 50: _Concerning this of Insects, See Mr._ Ray's _Hist. Plant.
+li. l. cap. 24_.]
+
+[Footnote 51: _The poyson'd Weeds: I have seen a Man, who was so
+poyson'd with it, that the Skin peel'd off his Face, and yet he never
+touch'd it, only looked on it as he pass'd by_. _Mr._ Stafford, _Philos.
+Transact._ Vol. III. Num. xl. p. 794.]
+
+[Footnote 52: Cowley, _Garden_, Miscel. Stanz. 8.]
+
+[Footnote 53: Sapores minime Consentientes [Greek: kai sumpleko-uas
+ouchi symphonous haphas]: Haec despicere ingeniosi est artificis:
+_Neither did the Artist mingle his Provisions without extraordinary
+Study and Consideration_: [Greek: Alla mixas panta kata symphonian].
+Horum singulis seorsum assumptis, tu expedito: Sic ego tanquam Oraculo
+jubeo.----Itaque literarum ignarum Coquum, tu cum videris, & qui
+Democriti scripta omnia non perlegerit, vel potius, impromptu non
+habeat, eum deride ut futilem: Ac ilium Mercede conducito, qui Epicuri
+Canonen usu plane didicerit, _&c. as it follows in the_ Gastronomia _of_
+Archestratus, Athen. lib. xxiii. _Such another_ Bragadoccio Cook Horace
+_describes_
+
+  Nec sibi Coenarum quivis temere arroget artem
+  Non prius exacta tenui ratione saporem.
+  _Sat. lib. ii. Sat. 4._]
+
+[Footnote 54: Milton's _Paradise Lost_.]
+
+[Footnote 55:
+
+  ---- Qui
+  Tingat olus siccum muria vaser in calice empta
+  Ipse sacrum irrorans piper ---- Pers. _Sat._ vi.]
+
+[Footnote 56: _Dr._ Grew, Lect. vi. c. 2. 3.]
+
+[Footnote 57: _Muffet_, de Diaeta, _c._ 23.]
+
+[Footnote 58: _Dr._ Grew, _Annat. Plant._ Lib. l. Sect. iv. cap. l, &c.
+_See also_, Transact. _Num._ 107. _Vol._ ix.]
+
+[Footnote 59: _Philosoph. Transact._ Vol. III. Num. xl. p. 799.]
+
+[Footnote 60: Mart. _Epig. lib._ xi. 39.]
+
+[Footnote 61: Athen. l. 2. _Of which Change of Diet see_ Plut. iv.
+_Sympos._ 9. Plinii _Epist._ I. _ad Eretrium._]
+
+[Footnote 62: Virg. _Moreto_.]
+
+[Footnote 63: Hor. _Sat. I. 2. Sat. 4._]
+
+[Footnote 64: Mart. _Ep. l._ v. _Ep. 17_.]
+
+[Footnote 65: _Concerning the Use of Fruit (bessides many others)
+whether best to be eaten before, or after Meals? Published by a
+Physician of_ Rochel, _and render'd out of_ French _into_ English.
+_Printed by_ T. Basset _in_ Fleetstreet.]
+
+[Footnote 66: Achilles, Patroclus, Automedon. _Iliad. ix. & alibi_.]
+
+[Footnote 67: _For so some pronounce it_, V. Athenaeum Deip. _Lib._ II.
+_Cap._ 26 [Greek: ed-] quasi [Greek: edusma], _perhaps for that it
+incites Appetite, and causes Hunger, which is the best Sauce_.]
+
+[Footnote 68: Cratinus in Glauco.]
+
+[Footnote 69: Nat. Hist. IV. _Cent._ VII. 130. Se Arist. Prob. _Sect._
+xx. _Quaest._ 36. _Why some Fruits and Plants are best raw, others
+boil'd, roasted_, &c, _as becoming sweeter; but the Crude more sapid and
+grateful_.]
+
+[Footnote 70: Card. _Contradicent_. Med. l. iv. _Cant._ 18. Diphilus
+_not at all_. Athenaeus.]
+
+[Footnote 71: _Sir_ Tho. Brown's _Miscel._]
+
+[Footnote 72: Caule suburbano qui ficcis crevit in agris Dulcior,--
+--Hor. _Sat._ l. 2. Section 4.]
+
+[Footnote 73: Transact. Philos. _Num._ xxv.]
+
+[Footnote 74: _Num._ xviii.]
+
+[Footnote 75: _Thesaur. Sanit._ c. 2.]
+
+[Footnote 76: _As_ Delcampius _interprets the Place_.]
+
+[Footnote 77: Scaliger ad Card. Exercit. 213.]
+
+[Footnote 78: _Cel._ Lib. Cap. 4.]
+
+[Footnote 79: Plin. _Nat. Hist. l. 3. c. 12._]
+
+[Footnote 80: Hanc brevitatem Vitae (_speaking of Horses_) fortasse
+homini debet, _Verul. Hist._ Vit. & Mort. _See this throughly
+controverted_, Macrob. _Saturn._ l. vii. c. v.]
+
+[Footnote 81: Arist. _Hist. Animal. l._ v. _c._ 14.]
+
+[Footnote 82: [Greek: anomoia sasiazei].]
+
+[Footnote 83: Hor. _Sat. l._ II. _Sat._ 2. Macr. _Sat. l._ VII.]
+
+[Footnote 84: Gen. ix.]
+
+[Footnote 85: Metam. i. Fab. iii. _and_ xv.]
+
+[Footnote 86: Gen. xi. 19.]
+
+[Footnote 87: Gen. ix.]
+
+[Footnote 88: _Porphyr._ de Abstin. _Proclum_, _Jambleum_, &c.]
+
+[Footnote 89: Strom, vii.]
+
+[Footnote 90: Praep. Lv. passim.]
+
+[Footnote 91: Tertul. _de Tejun._ cap. iv. Hieron. _advers._ Jovin.]
+
+[Footnote 92: Sen. _Epist._ 108.]
+
+[Footnote 93: 1 _Cor._ viii. 8. 1. _Tim._ iv. 1. 3. 14. _Rom._ ii. 3.]
+
+[Footnote 94:
+
+  Has Epulas habuit teneri gens aurea mundis
+    Et coenae ingentis tune caput ipsa sui.
+  Semide unque meo creverunt corpora succo,
+    Materiam tanti sanguinis ille dedit.
+  Tune neque fraus nota est, neque vis, neque foeda libido;
+    Haec nimis proles saeva caloris erat.
+  Si sacrum illorum, sit detestabile nomen,
+    Qui primi servae regne dedere gulae.
+  Hinc vitiis patefacta via est, morbisq; secutis sas,
+    Se lethi facies exeruere novae.
+  Ah, fuge crudeles Animantum sanguine men
+    Quasque tibi obsonat mors inimica dapes.
+  Poscas tandem aeger, si sanus negligis, herbas.
+    Esse cibus nequeunt? at medicamen erunt.
+  _Colci_ Plaut. lib. 1. Lactuca.]
+
+[Footnote 95: Gen. ix.]
+
+[Footnote 96: Ancyra xiv.]
+
+[Footnote 97: Can. Apost. 50.]
+
+[Footnote 98: Clem. Paedag. _Lib._ ii. c. l. _Vide_ Prudent. _Hymn_.
+[Greek: cha themerinon]: Nos Oloris Coma, nos siliqua facta legumine
+multitudo paraveris innocuis Epulis.]
+
+[Footnote 99: xv. _Acts_, 20, 29.]
+
+[Footnote 100: _Philo_ de Vit. Contemp. _Joseph_. Antiq. _Lib._ 13
+_Cap._ 9.]
+
+[Footnote 101: _Hackwell_. Apolog.]
+
+[Footnote 102: Hippoc. de vetere Medicina, Cap. 6, 7.]
+
+[Footnote 103: 2 _Tim._ iv. 3.]
+
+[Footnote 104: _This, with their prodigious Ignorance_. _See_ Mab. des
+Etudes Monast. _Part._ 2. c. 17.]
+
+[Footnote 105: _Dr._ Lister's _Journey to_ Paris. _See L'Apocalyps_ de
+Meliton, _ou Revelation des Mysteres Cenobitiques_.]
+
+[Footnote 106: Plantarum usus latissime patet, & in omni vitae parte
+occurrit, sine illis laute, sine illis commode non vivitur, ac nec
+vivitur omnino. Quaecunque ad victu necessaria sunt, quaecunque ad
+delicias faciunt, e locupletissimo suo penu abunde subministrant: Quanto
+ex eis mensa innocentior, mundior, salubrior, quam ex animalium caede &
+Laniena! Homo certe natura animal carnivorum non est; nullis ad praedam &
+rapinam armis instructum; non dentibus exertis & ferratis, non unguibus
+aduncis: Manus ad fructos colligendos, dentes ad mandendos comparati;
+nee legimus se ante diluvium carnes ad esum concessas, &c. _Raii Hist.
+Plant. Lib._ 1. _cap._ 24.]
+
+[Footnote 107: Mart. _lib._ x. _Epig._ 44.]
+
+[Footnote 108: Barl. _Eleg. lib._ 3.]
+
+[Footnote 109: Athen. Deip. _l._ i.]
+
+[Footnote 110: Cowley, _Garden. Stanz._ 6.]
+
+[Footnote 111: _Hence in_ Macrobius Sat. lib. vii. c. 5. _we find_
+Eupolis _the Comedian in his_ aeges, _bringing in Goats boasting the
+Variety of their Food,_ [Greek: Boskometh ules apo pantodaoes, elates],
+&c. _After which follows a Banquet of innumerable sorts_.]
+
+[Footnote 112: Esa. lxv. 25.]
+
+[Footnote 113: Bina tunc jugera populo Romano satis erat, nullique
+majorem modum attribuit, quo servos paulo ante principis Neronis,
+contemptis hujus spatii Virdariis, piscinas juvat habere majores,
+gratumque, si non aliquem & culinas. _Plin. Hist. Nat. lib._ xviii.
+_c._ 2.]
+
+[Footnote 114: Interea gustus elements per omnia quaerunt. _Juv. Sat.
+4._]
+
+[Footnote 115: Cicero. _Epist._ Lib. 7. _Ep._ 26. _Complaining of a
+costly Sallet, that had almost cost him his Life_.]
+
+[Footnote 116: Valeriana, _That of_ Lectucini, Achilleia, Lysimachia,
+Fabius, Cicero, Lentulus, Piso, &c. a Fabis, Cicere, Lente, Pisis bene
+serendis dicti, _Plin._]
+
+[Footnote 117: Mirum esset non licere pecori Carduis vesci, non licet
+plebei, &c. _And in another Place_, Quoniam portenta quoque terrarum in
+ganeam vertimus, etiam quae refugeant quadrupeded consciae, _Plin._ Hist.
+Nat. l. xix. c. 8.]
+
+[Footnote 118: Gra. Falisc. _Gyneget_. Was. _See concerning this Excess_
+Macr. _Sat. l. 2. c. 9._ & sequ.]
+
+[Footnote 119: Horti maxime placebant, quia non egerent igni,
+parcerentque ligno, expedita res, & parata semper, unde _Acetaria_
+appellantur, facilia concoqui, nee oneratura sensum cibo, & quae minime
+accenderent desiderium panis. _Plin. Hist. Nat. Lib._ xix. _c._ 4. _And
+of this exceeding Frugality of the_ Romans, _till after the_ Mithridatic
+_War, see_ Athenaeus Deip. Lib. 6. cap. 21. Horat. _Serm. Sat._ 1.]
+
+[Footnote 120: Nequam esse in domo matrem familias (etenim haec cura
+Foeminae dicebatur) ubi indiligens esset hortus.]
+
+[Footnote 121: Alterum succidium. _Cic._ in _Catone_. Tiberias _had a
+Tribute of_ Skirrits _paid him_.]
+
+[Footnote 122: Hor. _Sat. l. 2._ Vix prae vino sustinet palpebras, eunti
+in consilium, &c. _See the Oration of_ C. _Titius_ de Leg. Fan. Mac
+_Sat. l. 2. c. 12._]
+
+[Footnote 123: Milton's _Paradise_, 1. v. ver. 228.]
+
+[Footnote 124:
+
+  At victus illa aetas cui secimus aurea nomen
+  Fructibus arboreis, & quas humus educat herbis
+  Fortunata fuit.----_Met. xv._]
+
+[Footnote 125: Bene moratus venter.]
+
+[Footnote 126: TAB. II.]
+
+[Footnote 127:
+
+  Foelix, quem misera procul ambitione remotum,
+    Parvus ager placide, parvus & hortus, alit.
+  Praebet ager quicquid frugi natura requirit,
+    Hortus habet quicquid luxuriosa petit,
+  Caetera follicitae speciosa incommoda vitae
+    Permittit stultis quaerere, habere malis.
+  _Cowley_, Pl. lib. iv.]
+
+[Footnote 128: Plin. Athenaeus, Macrobius, Bacon, Boyle, Digby, _&c._]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_An Edition of one thousand copies was designed by Richard Ellis
+and printed under his supervision at The Haddon Craftsmen, Camden,
+New Jersey_.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's Acetaria: A Discourse of Sallets, by John Evelyn
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ACETARIA: A DISCOURSE OF SALLETS ***
+
+***** This file should be named 15517.txt or 15517.zip *****
+This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:
+        https://www.gutenberg.org/1/5/5/1/15517/
+
+Produced by David Garcia and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team.
+
+Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions
+will be renamed.
+
+Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no
+one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation
+(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without
+permission and without paying copyright royalties.  Special rules,
+set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to
+copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to
+protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark.  Project
+Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you
+charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission.  If you
+do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the
+rules is very easy.  You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose
+such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and
+research.  They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do
+practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks.  Redistribution is
+subject to the trademark license, especially commercial
+redistribution.
+
+
+
+*** START: FULL LICENSE ***
+
+THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE
+PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK
+
+To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free
+distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work
+(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project
+Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project
+Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at
+https://gutenberg.org/license).
+
+
+Section 1.  General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic works
+
+1.A.  By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to
+and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property
+(trademark/copyright) agreement.  If you do not agree to abide by all
+the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy
+all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession.
+If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the
+terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or
+entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8.
+
+1.B.  "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark.  It may only be
+used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who
+agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement.  There are a few
+things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works
+even without complying with the full terms of this agreement.  See
+paragraph 1.C below.  There are a lot of things you can do with Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement
+and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works.  See paragraph 1.E below.
+
+1.C.  The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation"
+or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic works.  Nearly all the individual works in the
+collection are in the public domain in the United States.  If an
+individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are
+located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from
+copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative
+works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg
+are removed.  Of course, we hope that you will support the Project
+Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by
+freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of
+this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with
+the work.  You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by
+keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project
+Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others.
+
+1.D.  The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern
+what you can do with this work.  Copyright laws in most countries are in
+a constant state of change.  If you are outside the United States, check
+the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement
+before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or
+creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project
+Gutenberg-tm work.  The Foundation makes no representations concerning
+the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United
+States.
+
+1.E.  Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg:
+
+1.E.1.  The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate
+access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently
+whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the
+phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project
+Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed,
+copied or distributed:
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+1.E.2.  If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived
+from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is
+posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied
+and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees
+or charges.  If you are redistributing or providing access to a work
+with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the
+work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1
+through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the
+Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or
+1.E.9.
+
+1.E.3.  If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted
+with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution
+must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional
+terms imposed by the copyright holder.  Additional terms will be linked
+to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the
+permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work.
+
+1.E.4.  Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this
+work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm.
+
+1.E.5.  Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this
+electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without
+prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with
+active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project
+Gutenberg-tm License.
+
+1.E.6.  You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary,
+compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any
+word processing or hypertext form.  However, if you provide access to or
+distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than
+"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version
+posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org),
+you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a
+copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon
+request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other
+form.  Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1.
+
+1.E.7.  Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying,
+performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works
+unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9.
+
+1.E.8.  You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing
+access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided
+that
+
+- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from
+     the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method
+     you already use to calculate your applicable taxes.  The fee is
+     owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he
+     has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the
+     Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation.  Royalty payments
+     must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you
+     prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax
+     returns.  Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and
+     sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the
+     address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to
+     the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation."
+
+- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies
+     you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he
+     does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+     License.  You must require such a user to return or
+     destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium
+     and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of
+     Project Gutenberg-tm works.
+
+- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any
+     money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the
+     electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days
+     of receipt of the work.
+
+- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free
+     distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works.
+
+1.E.9.  If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set
+forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from
+both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael
+Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark.  Contact the
+Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below.
+
+1.F.
+
+1.F.1.  Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable
+effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread
+public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm
+collection.  Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain
+"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or
+corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual
+property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a
+computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by
+your equipment.
+
+1.F.2.  LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right
+of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project
+Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project
+Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all
+liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal
+fees.  YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT
+LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE
+PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH F3.  YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE
+TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE
+LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR
+INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH
+DAMAGE.
+
+1.F.3.  LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a
+defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can
+receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a
+written explanation to the person you received the work from.  If you
+received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with
+your written explanation.  The person or entity that provided you with
+the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a
+refund.  If you received the work electronically, the person or entity
+providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to
+receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund.  If the second copy
+is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further
+opportunities to fix the problem.
+
+1.F.4.  Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth
+in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS' WITH NO OTHER
+WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO
+WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE.
+
+1.F.5.  Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied
+warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages.
+If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the
+law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be
+interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by
+the applicable state law.  The invalidity or unenforceability of any
+provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions.
+
+1.F.6.  INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the
+trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone
+providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance
+with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production,
+promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works,
+harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees,
+that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do
+or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm
+work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any
+Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause.
+
+
+Section  2.  Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of
+electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers
+including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers.  It exists
+because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from
+people in all walks of life.
+
+Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the
+assistance they need, is critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's
+goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will
+remain freely available for generations to come.  In 2001, the Project
+Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure
+and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations.
+To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation
+and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4
+and the Foundation web page at https://www.pglaf.org.
+
+
+Section 3.  Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive
+Foundation
+
+The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit
+501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the
+state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal
+Revenue Service.  The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification
+number is 64-6221541.  Its 501(c)(3) letter is posted at
+https://pglaf.org/fundraising.  Contributions to the Project Gutenberg
+Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent
+permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws.
+
+The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S.
+Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered
+throughout numerous locations.  Its business office is located at
+809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email
+business@pglaf.org.  Email contact links and up to date contact
+information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official
+page at https://pglaf.org
+
+For additional contact information:
+     Dr. Gregory B. Newby
+     Chief Executive and Director
+     gbnewby@pglaf.org
+
+
+Section 4.  Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg
+Literary Archive Foundation
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide
+spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of
+increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be
+freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest
+array of equipment including outdated equipment.  Many small donations
+($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt
+status with the IRS.
+
+The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating
+charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United
+States.  Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a
+considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up
+with these requirements.  We do not solicit donations in locations
+where we have not received written confirmation of compliance.  To
+SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any
+particular state visit https://pglaf.org
+
+While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we
+have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition
+against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who
+approach us with offers to donate.
+
+International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make
+any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from
+outside the United States.  U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff.
+
+Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation
+methods and addresses.  Donations are accepted in a number of other
+ways including including checks, online payments and credit card
+donations.  To donate, please visit: https://pglaf.org/donate
+
+
+Section 5.  General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works.
+
+Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm
+concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared
+with anyone.  For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project
+Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support.
+
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed
+editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S.
+unless a copyright notice is included.  Thus, we do not necessarily
+keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition.
+
+
+Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility:
+
+     https://www.gutenberg.org
+
+This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm,
+including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary
+Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to
+subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks.