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<pre>
The Project Gutenberg EBook of A Voyage to the South Sea, by William Bligh
This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
Title: A Voyage to the South Sea
For The Purpose Of Conveying The Bread-Fruit Tree To The West Indies,
Including An Account Of The Mutiny On Board The Ship
Author: William Bligh
Release Date: March 19, 2005 [EBook #15411]
Language: English
Character set encoding: ASCII
*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A VOYAGE TO THE SOUTH SEA ***
Produced by Sue Asscher and Col Choat.
</pre>
<p><a name="home"></a></p>
<p align="center"><a name="bligh-00"></a><img alt="" src=
"images/bligh-00.jpg"></p>
<h4>A</h4>
<h2>VOYAGE</h2>
<h4>TO THE</h4>
<h2>SOUTH SEA,</h2>
<h3>UNDERTAKEN BY COMMAND OF</h3>
<h2>HIS MAJESTY,</h2>
<h4>FOR THE PURPOSE OF</h4>
<h3>CONVEYING THE BREAD-FRUIT TREE</h3>
<h4>TO THE WEST INDIES,</h4>
<h3>IN HIS MAJESTY'S SHIP THE BOUNTY,</h3>
<h4>COMMANDED BY</h4>
<h3>LIEUTENANT WILLIAM BLIGH.</h3>
<h4>INCLUDING AN ACCOUNT OF THE</h4>
<h3>MUTINY ON BOARD THE SAID SHIP,</h3>
<h4>AND THE</h4>
<h3>SUBSEQUENT VOYAGE OF PART OF THE CREW, IN THE SHIP'S
BOAT,</h3>
<h4>FROM TOFOA, ONE OF THE FRIENDLY ISLANDS,</h4>
<h4>TO TIMOR, A DUTCH SETTLEMENT IN THE EAST INDIES.</h4>
<h3>THE WHOLE ILLUSTRATED WITH CHARTS, ETC.</h3>
<hr align="center" width="20%">
<h4>PUBLISHED BY PERMISSION OF THE</h4>
<h3>LORDS COMMISSIONERS OF THE ADMIRALTY.</h3>
<hr align="center" width="20%">
<h3>LONDON:</h3>
<h4>PRINTED FOR GEORGE NICOL, BOOKSELLER TO HIS MAJESTY,
PALL-MALL.</h4>
<h4>1792.</h4>
<hr align="center" width="50%">
<p align="center"><a name="bligh-01"></a><img alt="" src=
"images/bligh-01.jpg"><br>
<b>Captain Bligh</b></p>
<hr align="center" width="50%">
<h2>ADVERTISEMENT.</h2>
<p>At the time I published the Narrative of the Mutiny on Board
the Bounty it was my intention that the preceding part of the
Voyage should be contained in a separate account. This method I
have since been induced to alter. The reason of the Narrative
appearing first was for the purpose of communicating early
information concerning an event which had attracted the public
notice: and, being drawn up in a hasty manner, it required many
corrections. Some circumstances likewise were omitted; and the
notation of time used in the Narrative being according to sea
reckoning, in which the days begin and end at noon, must have
produced a degree of obscurity and confusion to readers
accustomed only to the civil mode. And this would have increased
as the remainder of the voyage, on account of the numerous shore
occurrences at Otaheite and elsewhere, could not, with clearness
and propriety, have been related in any other than the usual
manner of reckoning.</p>
<p>Besides remedying these inconveniencies I have thought a
fuller account of our passage from Timor to Europe than that
contained in the Narrative would not be unacceptable. These
reasons, with the manifest convenience of comprising the whole
Voyage in one continued narrative, in preference to letting it
appear in disjointed accounts will, it is hoped, be allowed a
sufficient excuse for having varied from the original intention.
Nevertheless for the accommodation of the purchasers of the
Narrative already published those who desire it will be supplied
with the other parts of the Voyage separate; i.e. the part
previous to the mutiny and the additional account after leaving
Timor.</p>
<hr align="center" width="50%">
<hr align="center" width="50%">
<h2>CONTENTS.</h2>
<p><a href="#ch1">CHAPTER 1.</a></p>
<p>Plan of the Expedition.<br>
Outfit and Occurrences to the time of leaving England.<br>
Description of the Breadfruit.</p>
<p><a href="#ch2">CHAPTER 2.</a></p>
<p>Departure from England.<br>
Arrival at Tenerife.<br>
Sail from thence.<br>
Arrival off Cape Horn.<br>
Severity of the Weather.<br>
Obliged to bear away for the Cape of Good Hope.</p>
<p><a href="#ch3">CHAPTER 3.</a></p>
<p>Passage towards the Cape of Good Hope and Search after Tristan da Cunha.<br>
Arrival at False Bay. Occurrences there.<br>
Reports concerning the Grosvenor's People.<br>
Departure from the Cape.</p>
<p><a href="#ch4">CHAPTER 4.</a></p>
<p>Passage towards Van Diemen's Land. Make the Island of St. Paul.<br>
Arrival in Adventure Bay. Natives seen.<br>
Sail from Van Diemen's Land.</p>
<p><a href="#ch5">CHAPTER 5.</a></p>
<p>Rocky Islands discovered.<br>
See the Island Maitea and arrive at Otaheite.<br>
Ship crowded by the Natives.</p>
<p><a href="#ch6">CHAPTER 6.</a></p>
<p>Account of an English Ship lately sailed from Otaheite.<br>
Death of Omai.<br>
Captain Cook's Picture sent on board.<br>
Otoo visits the Ship.<br>
His Visit returned. Natives well disposed towards us.<br>
Account of the Cattle left by Captain Cook.<br>
Breadfruit plants promised.<br>
Visit to the Earee Rahie.<br>
Presents made to the Arreoys.</p>
<p><a href="#ch7">CHAPTER 7.</a></p>
<p>A theft committed.<br>
Deception of the painted Head.<br>
Conversation with a Priest.<br>
A Wrestling Match.<br>
Reports of the Natives concerning other Islands.<br>
Some Account of Omai.</p>
<p><a href="#ch8">CHAPTER 8.</a></p>
<p>Expedition to Tettaba after a Heifer.<br>
Extraordinary domestic Arrangements.<br>
Tinah's Mother visits the Ship.<br>
A Sheep brought from Ulietea.<br>
Heavy Storm.<br>
Death of the Surgeon.<br>
Taowne and Toahroah Harbours examined.</p>
<p><a href="#ch9">CHAPTER 9.</a></p>
<p>A Walk into the Country.<br>
The Peeah Roah.<br>
Prevailed on by the Kindness of the Chiefs to defer our Departure.<br>
Breadfruit Plants collected.<br>
Move the Ship to Toahroah Harbour.<br>
Fishing.<br>
Three of the Ship's Company desert.<br>
Indiscretion of our People on Shore.<br>
Instances of Jealousy.<br>
Mourning.<br>
Bull brought to Oparre by a Prophet.<br>
The Deserters recovered.<br>
Tinah proposes to visit England.</p>
<p><a href="#ch10">CHAPTER 10.</a></p>
<p>The Ship's Cable cut in the Night.<br>
Coolness with the Chiefs on that Account.<br>
Visit to an old Lady.<br>
Disturbance at a Heiva.<br>
Tinah's Hospitality.<br>
A Thief taken and punished.<br>
Preparations for sailing.</p>
<p><a href="#ch11">CHAPTER 11.</a></p>
<p>Arrival of an Arreoy Woman from Tethuroa.<br>
A Present delivered by Tinah for his Majesty.<br>
Other Occurrences to the Time of the Ship's Departure from Otaheite.</p>
<p><a href="#ch12">CHAPTER 12.</a></p>
<p>At the Island Huaheine.<br>
A Friend of Omai visits the Ship.<br>
Leave the Society Islands.<br>
A Water-spout.<br>
The Island Whytootackee discovered.<br>
Anchor in Annamooka Road.<br>
Our Parties on Shore robbed by the Natives.<br>
Sail from Annamooka.<br>
The Chiefs detained on board.<br>
Part friendly.</p>
<p><a href="#ch13">CHAPTER 13.</a></p>
<p>A Mutiny in the Ship.</p>
<p><a href="#ch14">CHAPTER 14.</a></p>
<p>Proceed in the Launch to the Island Tofoa.<br>
Difficulty in obtaining Supplies there.<br>
Treacherous Attack of the Natives.<br>
Escape to Sea and bear away for New Holland.</p>
<p><a href="#ch15">CHAPTER 15.</a></p>
<p>Passage towards New Holland.<br>
Islands discovered in our Route.<br>
Our great Distresses.<br>
See the Reefs of New Holland and find a Passage through them.</p>
<p><a href="#ch16">CHAPTER 16.</a></p>
<p>Progress to the Northward along the Coast of New Holland.<br>
Land on different Islands in search of Supplies.</p>
<p><a href="#ch17">CHAPTER 17.</a></p>
<p>Passage from New Holland to the Island Timor.<br>
Arrive at Coupang.<br>
Reception there.</p>
<p><a href="#ch18">CHAPTER 18.</a></p>
<p>At Coupang.</p>
<p><a href="#ch19">CHAPTER 19.</a></p>
<p>From Timor to Batavia.</p>
<p><a href="#ch20">CHAPTER 20.</a></p>
<p>Occurrences at Batavia and Passage thence to England.</p>
<hr align="center" width="50%">
<h2>LIST OF THE PLATES.</h2>
<p><a href="#bligh-01">Head of Lieutenant Bligh.</a></p>
<p><a href="#bligh-02">Plan and profile of the deck of the Bounty.</a></p>
<p><a href="#bligh-03">Sections of the Breadfruit.</a></p>
<p><a href="#bligh-04">Plan of Toahroah harbour.</a></p>
<p><a href="#bligh-05">Copy of the draught from which the Bounty's launch was built.</a></p>
<p><a href="#bligh-06">Chart of Islands discovered from the launch.</a></p>
<p><a href="#bligh-07">Chart of part of the north-east coast of New Holland.</a></p>
<p><a href="#bligh-08">Chart of the track of the launch from Tofoa to Timor.</a></p>
<hr align="center" width="50%">
<p align="center"><a name="bligh-02"></a><img alt="" src=
"images/bligh-02.jpg"><br>
<b>Plan and Section of Part of the Bounty Armed Transport, showing the manner of Fitting and Stowing the Potts, for receiving the Bread-fruit Plants.</b></p>
<hr align="center" width="50%">
<h2>A VOYAGE TO THE SOUTH SEAS, ETC.</h2>
<p><a name="ch1"></a></p>
<h2>CHAPTER 1.</h2>
<blockquote><b>Plan of the Expedition.<br>
Outfit and Occurrences to the time of leaving England.<br>
Description of the Breadfruit.</b></blockquote>
<p>1787.</p>
<p>The King having been graciously pleased to comply with a
request from the merchants and planters interested in his
Majesty's West India possessions that the breadfruit tree might
be introduced into those islands, a vessel proper for the
undertaking was bought and taken into dock at Deptford to be
provided with the necessary fixtures and preparations for
executing the object of the voyage. These were completed
according to a plan of my much honoured friend, Sir Joseph Banks,
which in the event proved the most advantageous that could have
been adopted for the intended purpose.</p>
<p>August 16.</p>
<p>The ship was named the Bounty: I was appointed to command her
on the 16th of August 1787. Her burthen was nearly two hundred
and fifteen tons; her extreme length on deck ninety feet ten
inches; extreme breadth twenty-four feet three inches; and height
in the hold under the beams at the main hatchway ten feet three
inches. In the cockpit were the cabins of the surgeon, gunner,
botanist, and clerk, with a steward-room and storerooms. The
between decks was divided in the following manner: the great
cabin was appropriated for the preservation of the plants and
extended as far forward as the after hatchway. It had two large
skylights, and on each side three scuttles for air, and was
fitted with a false floor cut full of holes to contain the
garden-pots in which the plants were to be brought home. The deck
was covered with lead, and at the foremost corners of the cabin
were fixed pipes to carry off the water that drained from the
plants into tubs placed below to save it for future use. I had a
small cabin on one side to sleep in, adjoining to the great
cabin, and a place near the middle of the ship to eat in. The
bulk-head of this apartment was at the after-part of the main
hatchway, and on each side of it were the berths of the mates and
midshipmen; between these berths the arm-chest was placed. The
cabin of the master, in which was always kept the key of the
arms, was opposite to mine. This particular description of the
interior parts of the ship is rendered necessary by the event of
the expedition.</p>
<p>The ship was masted according to the proportion of the navy;
but on my application the masts were shortened, as I thought them
too much for her, considering the nature of the voyage.</p>
<p>September 3.</p>
<p>On the 3rd of September the ship came out of dock; but the
carpenters and joiners remained on board much longer, as they had
a great deal of work to finish.</p>
<p>The next material alteration made in the fitting out was
lessening the quantity of iron and other ballast. I gave
directions that only nineteen tons of iron should be taken on
board instead of the customary proportion which was forty-five
tons. The stores and provisions I judged would be fully
sufficient to answer the purpose of the remainder; for I am of
opinion that many of the misfortunes which attend ships in heavy
storms of wind are occasioned by too much dead weight in their
bottoms.</p>
<p>The establishment of men and officers for the ship were as
follows:</p>
<pre>
1 Lieutenant to command.
1 Master.
1 Boatswain.
1 Gunner.
1 Carpenter.
1 Surgeon.
2 Master's Mates.
2 Midshipmen.
2 Quartermasters.
1 Quartermaster's Mate.
1 Boatswain's Mate.
1 Gunner's Mate.
1 Carpenter's Mate.
1 Carpenter's Crew.
1 Sailmaker.
1 Armourer.
1 Corporal.
1 Clerk and Steward.
23 Able Seamen.
---
44.
</pre>
<p>Two skilful and careful men were appointed, at Sir Joseph
Banks's recommendation, to have the management of the plants
intended to be brought home: the one, David Nelson, who had been
on similar employment in Captain Cook's last voyage; the other,
William Brown, as an assistant to him. With these two our whole
number amounted to forty-six.</p>
<p>It was proposed that our route to the Society Islands should
be round Cape Horn; and the greatest dispatch became necessary as
the season was already far advanced: but the shipwrights not
being able to complete their work by the time the ship was ready
in other respects, our sailing was unavoidably retarded.</p>
<p>October. Thursday 4.</p>
<p>However by the 4th of October the pilot came on board to take
us down the river.</p>
<p>Tuesday 9.</p>
<p>On the 9th we fell down to Long Reach where we received our
gunner's stores and guns, four four-pounders and ten swivels.</p>
<p>The ship was stored and victualled for eighteen months. In
addition to the customary allowance of provisions we were
supplied with sourkraut, portable soup, essence of malt, dried
malt, and a proportion of barley and wheat in lieu of oatmeal. I
was likewise furnished with a quantity of ironwork and trinkets
to serve in our intercourse with the natives in the South Seas:
and from the board of Longitude I received a timekeeper, made by
Mr. Kendal.</p>
<p>Monday 15.</p>
<p>On the 15th I received orders to proceed to Spithead.</p>
<p>November. Sunday 4.</p>
<p>But the winds and weather were so unfavourable that we did not
arrive there till the 4th of November. On the 24th I received
from Lord Hood, who commanded at Spithead, my final orders. The
wind, which for several days before had been favourable, was now
turned directly against us.</p>
<p>Wednesday 28.</p>
<p>On the 28th the ship's company received two months pay in
advance, and on the following morning we worked out to St.
Helen's, where we were obliged to anchor.</p>
<p>1787. December. Sunday 23.</p>
<p>We made different unsuccessful attempts to get down Channel,
but contrary winds and bad weather constantly forced us back to
St. Helen's, or Spithead, until Sunday the 23rd of December when
we sailed with a fair wind.</p>
<p>During our stay at Spithead, the rate of the timepiece was
several times examined by Mr. Bailey's observations at the
Portsmouth observatory. On the 19th of December, the last time of
its being examined on shore, it was 1 minute 52 seconds, 5 too
fast for meantime, and then losing at the rate of 1 second, 1 per
day; and at this rate I estimate its going when we sailed.</p>
<p>The object of all the former voyages to the South Seas
undertaken by the command of his present majesty, has been the
advancement of science and the increase of knowledge. This voyage
may be reckoned the first the intention of which has been to
derive benefit from those distant discoveries. For the more fully
comprehending the nature and plan of the expedition, and that the
reader may be possessed of every information necessary for
entering on the following sheets, I shall here lay before him a
copy of the instructions I received from the admiralty, and
likewise a short description of the breadfruit.</p>
<hr align="center" width="20%">
<blockquote><p><i>By the Commissioners for Executing the Office of Lord High
Admiral of Great Britain and Ireland, etc.</i></p>
<p>Whereas the king, upon a representation from the merchants and
planters interested in his Majesty's West India possessions that
the introduction of the breadfruit tree into the islands of those
seas, to constitute an article of food, would be of very
essential benefit to the inhabitants, hath, in order to promote
the interests of so respectable a body of his subjects
(especially in an instance which promises general advantage)
thought fit that measures should be taken for the procuring some
of those trees, and conveying them to the said West India
islands: And whereas the vessel under your command hath, in
consequence thereof, been stored and victualled for that service,
and fitted with proper conveniences and necessaries for the
preservation of as many of the said trees as, from her size, can
be taken on board her; and you have been directed to receive on
board her the two gardeners named in the margin, David Nelson,
and William Brown, who, from their knowledge of trees and plants,
have been hired for the purpose of selecting such as shall appear
to be of a proper species and size:</p>
<p>You are, therefore, in pursuance of his majesty's pleasure,
signified to us by Lord Sydney, one of his principal secretaries
of state, hereby required and directed to put to sea in the
vessel you command, the first favourable opportunity of wind and
weather, and proceed with her, as expeditiously as possible,
round Cape Horn, to the Society Islands, situate in the Southern
ocean, in the latitude of about eighteen degrees south, and
longitude of about two hundred and ten degrees east from
Greenwich, where, according to the accounts given by the late
Captain Cook, and persons who accompanied him during his voyages,
the breadfruit tree is to be found in the most luxuriant
state.</p>
<p>Having arrived at the above-mentioned islands, and taken on
board as many trees and plants as may be thought necessary (the
better to enable you to do which, you have already been furnished
with such articles of merchandise and trinkets as it is supposed
will be wanted to satisfy the natives) you are to proceed from
thence through Endeavour Straits (which separate New Holland from
New Guinea) to Prince's Island in the Straits of Sunda, or, if it
should happen to be more convenient, to pass on the eastern side
of Java to some port on the north side of that island, where any
breadfruit trees which may have been injured, or have died, may
be replaced by mangosteens, duriens, jacks, nancas, lanfas, and
other fine fruit trees of that quarter, as well as the rice plant
which grows upon dry land; all of which species (or such of them
as shall be judged most eligible) you are to purchase on the best
terms you can from the inhabitants of that island with the ducats
with which you have also been furnished for that purpose; taking
care however, if the rice plants above-mentioned cannot be
procured at Java, to touch at Prince's Island for them, where
they are regularly cultivated.</p>
<p>From Prince's Island, or the Island of Java, you are to
proceed round the Cape of Good Hope to the West Indies (calling
on your way thither at any places which may be thought necessary)
and deposit one half of such of the above-mentioned trees and
plants as may be then alive at his majesty's botanical garden at
St. Vincent, for the benefit of the Windward Islands, and then go
on to Jamaica: and, having delivered the remainder to Mr. East,
or such person or persons as may be authorised by the governor
and council of that island to receive them, refreshed your
people, and received on board such provisions and stores as may
be necessary for the voyage, make the best of your way back to
England; repairing to Spithead, and sending to our secretary an
account of your arrival and proceedings.</p>
<p>And whereas you will receive herewith a copy of the
instructions which have been given to the above-mentioned
gardeners for their guidance, as well as in procuring the said
trees and plants, and the management of them after they shall be
put on board, as for bringing to England a small sample of each
species, and such others as may be prepared by the superintendent
of the botanical garden at St. Vincent's, and by the said Mr.
East, or others, for his majesty's garden at Kew; you are hereby
required and directed to afford, and to give directions to your
officers and company to afford, the said gardeners every possible
aid and assistance, not only in the collecting of the said trees
and plants at the places before mentioned, but for their
preservation during their conveyance to the places of their
destination.</p>
<p>Given under our hands the 20th November 1787.</p>
<p>HOWE,<br>
CHARLES BRETT,<br>
RD. HOPKINS,<br>
J. LEVESON GOWER.</p>
<p><i>To Lieutenant William Bligh, commanding his majesty's armed
vessel the Bounty at Spithead.</i></p>
<p>By command of their Lordships,</p>
<p>P. STEPHENS.</p></blockquote>
<hr align="center" width="20%">
<p>In the foregoing orders it is to be observed that I was
particularly directed to proceed round Cape Horn but, as the
season was so far advanced and we were so long detained by
contrary winds, I made application to the Admiralty for
discretional orders on that point; to which I received the
following answer:</p>
<blockquote><p><i>By the Commissioners for Executing the Office of Lord High
Admiral of Great Britain and Ireland, Etc. Etc.</i></p>
<p>The season of the year being now so far advanced as to render
it probable that your arrival with the vessel you command on the
southern coast of America will be too late for your passing round
Cape Horn without much difficulty and hazard, you are in that
case at liberty (notwithstanding former orders) to proceed in her
to Otaheite, round the Cape of Good Hope.</p>
<p>Given under our hands the 18th December 1787.</p>
<p>HOWE,<br>
CHARLES BRETT,<br>
BAYHAM.</p>
<p><i>To Lieutenant William Bligh, commanding His Majesty's armed
vessel Bounty, Spithead.</i></p>
<p>By command of their Lordships,</p>
<p>P. Stephens.</p></blockquote>
<p>The Breadfruit is so well known and described that to attempt
a new account of it would be unnecessary and useless. However as
it may contribute to the convenience of the reader I have given
the following extracts respecting it with the plate annexed.</p>
<hr align="center" width="20%">
<blockquote><p><i>Extract from the Account of Dampier's Voyage Round the World
Performed in 1688.</i></p>
<p>The breadfruit (as we call it) grows on a large tree, as big
and high as our largest apple-trees: It hath a spreading head,
full of branches and dark leaves. The fruit grows on the boughs
like apples; it is as big as a penny-loaf when wheat is at five
shillings the bushel; it is of a round shape, and hath a thick
tough rind. When the fruit is ripe it is yellow and soft, and the
taste is sweet and pleasant. The natives of Guam use it for
bread. They gather it, when full-grown, while it is green and
hard; then they bake it in an oven, which scorches the rind and
makes it black; but they scrape off the outside black crust, and
there remains a tender thin crust; and the inside is soft,
tender, and white like the crumb of a penny-loaf. There is
NEITHER SEED NOR STONE in the inside, but all is of a pure
substance, like bread. It must be eaten new; for, if it is kept
above twenty-four hours, it grows harsh and choaky; but it is
very pleasant before it is too stale. This fruit lasts in season
EIGHT MONTHS in the year, during which the natives eat NO OTHER
SORT OF FOOD OF BREAD KIND. I did never see of this fruit
anywhere but here. The natives told us that there is plenty of
this fruit growing on the rest of the Ladrone islands; and I DID
NEVER HEAR OF IT ANYWHERE ELSE. Volume 1 page 296.</p></blockquote>
<hr align="center" width="20%">
<blockquote><p><i>Extract from the Account of Lord Anson's Voyage, Published by
Mr. Walter.</i></p>
<p>There was at Tinian a kind of fruit, peculiar to these
(Ladrone) islands, called by the Indians rhymay, but by us the
breadfruit; for it was constantly eaten by us, during our stay
upon the island, * instead of bread; and so UNIVERSALLY PREFERRED
that no ship's bread was expended in that whole interval. It grew
upon a tree which is somewhat lofty, and which towards the top
divides into large and spreading branches. The leaves of this
tree are of a remarkable deep green, are notched about the edges,
and are generally from a foot to eighteen inches in length. The
fruit itself is found indifferently on all parts of the branches;
it is in shape rather elliptical than round; it is covered with a
tough rind and is usually seven or eight inches long; each of
them grows singly and not in clusters. This fruit is fittest to
be used when it is full-grown but still green; in which state,
after it is properly prepared by being roasted in the embers, its
taste has some distant resemblance to that of an artichoke's
bottom, and its texture is not very different, for it is soft and
spongy.</blockquote>
<blockquote>(*Footnote. About two months, namely from the latter end of
August to the latter end of October, 1742.)</blockquote>
<hr align="center" width="20%">
<blockquote><p><i>Extracts from the Account of the First Voyage of Captain Cook.
Hawkesworth, Vol. 2.</i></p>
<p>IN THE SOCIETY ISLANDS.</p>
<p>The breadfruit grows on a tree that is about the size of a
middling oak; its leaves are frequently a foot and a half long,
of an oblong shape, deeply sinuated like those of the fig-tree,
which they resemble in consistence and colour, and in the exuding
of a white milky juice upon being broken. The fruit is about the
size and shape of a child's head, and the surface is reticulated
not much unlike a truffle: it is covered with a thin skin, and
has a core about as big as the handle of a small knife. The
eatable part lies between the skin and the core; it is as white
as snow, and somewhat of the consistence of new bread: it must be
roasted before it is eaten, being first divided into three or
four parts. Its taste is insipid, with a slight sweetness
somewhat resembling that of the crumb of wheaten bread mixed with
a Jerusalem artichoke.</p>
<p>Pages 80, 81. See also the plate there and at page 232.</p>
<p>Of the many vegetables that have been mentioned already as
serving them for food, the principal is the breadfruit, to
procure which costs them no trouble or labour but climbing a
tree. The tree which produces it does not indeed shoot up
spontaneously, but if a man plants ten of them in his lifetime,
which he may do in about an hour, he will as completely fulfil
his duty to his own and future generations as the native of our
less temperate climate can do by ploughing in the cold winter,
and reaping in the summer's heat, as often as these seasons
return; even if, after he has procured bread for his present
household, he should convert a surplus into money, and lay it up
for his children.</p>
<p>It is true indeed that the breadfruit is not always in season;
but coconuts, bananas, plantains, and a great variety of other
fruits supply the deficiency. Page 197.</p></blockquote>
<hr align="center" width="20%">
<blockquote><p><i>Extract from the Account of Captain Cook'S Last Voyage.</i></p>
<p>IN THE SOCIETY ISLANDS.</p>
<p>I (Captain Cook) have inquired very carefully into their
manner of cultivating the breadfruit tree at Otaheite; but was
always answered that they never planted it. This indeed must be
evident to everyone who will examine the places where the young
trees come up. It will be always observed that they spring from
the roots of the old ones which run along near the surface of the
ground. So that the breadfruit trees may be reckoned those that
would naturally cover the plains, even supposing that the island
was not inhabited, in the same manner that the white-barked
trees, found at Van Diemen's Land, constitute the forests there.
And from this we may observe that the inhabitant of Otaheite,
instead of being obliged to plant his bread, will RATHER be under
the necessity of preventing its progress; which I suppose is
sometimes done to give room for trees of another sort, to afford
him some variety in his food. Volume 2 page 145.</p>
<p>IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.</p>
<p>The breadfruit trees are planted, and flourish with great
luxuriance, on rising grounds. Where the hills rise almost
perpendicularly in a great variety of peaked forms, their steep
sides and the deep chasms between them are covered with trees,
amongst which those of the breadfruit were observed particularly
to abound. Volume 3 pages 105 and 114, containing Captain King's
Narrative.</p>
<p>The climate of the Sandwich Islands differs very little from
that of the West India Islands, which lie IN THE SAME LATITUDE.
Upon the whole perhaps it may be rather more temperate. Captain
King ib page 116.</p>
<p>The breadfruit trees thrive in these islands, not in such
abundance, but produce double the quantity of fruit they do on
the rich plains of Otaheite. The trees are nearly of the same
height, but the branches begin to strike out from the trunk much
lower, and with greater luxuriance. Captain King ib page 120.</p></blockquote>
<hr align="center" width="20%">
<p align="center"><a name="bligh-03"></a><img alt="" src=
"images/bligh-03.jpg"><br>
<b>Sections of the Bread Fruit</b></p>
<p><a name="ch2"></a></p>
<hr align="center" width="50%">
<h2>CHAPTER 2.</h2>
<blockquote><b>Departure from England. Arrival at Tenerife.<br>
Sail from thence.<br>
Arrival off Cape Horn.<br>
Severity of the Weather.<br>
Obliged to bear away for the Cape of Good Hope.</b></blockquote>
<p>1787. December. Sunday 23.</p>
<p>On Sunday morning the 23rd of December 1787 we sailed from
Spithead and, passing through the Needles, directed our course
down channel with a fresh gale of wind at east. In the afternoon
one of the seamen, in furling the main-top-gallant-sail, fell off
the yard and was so fortunate as to save himself by catching hold
of the main-top-mast-stay in his fall. At night the wind
increased to a strong gale with a heavy sea.</p>
<p>Tuesday 25.</p>
<p>It moderated however on the 25th and allowed us to keep our
Christmas with cheerfulness; but the following day it blew a
severe storm of wind from the eastward, which continued till the
29th, in the course of which we suffered greatly. One sea broke
away the spare yards and spars out of the starboard main chains.
Another heavy sea broke into the ship and stove all the boats.
Several casks of beer that had been lashed upon deck were broke
loose and washed overboard, and it was not without great
difficulty and risk that we were able to secure the boats from
being washed away entirely.</p>
<p>Saturday 29.</p>
<p>On the 29th we were in latitude 39 degrees 35 minutes north
and longitude 14 degrees 26 minutes west when the gale abated and
the weather became fair. Besides other mischief done to us by the
storm, a large quantity of our bread was damaged and rendered
useless, for the sea had stove in our stern and filled the cabin
with water. From this time to our arrival at Tenerife we had
moderate weather and winds mostly from the northward.</p>
<p>1788. January.</p>
<p>January 4.</p>
<p>This forenoon we spoke a French ship bound to the
Mauritius.</p>
<p>Saturday 5. Tenerife.</p>
<p>The next day at nine in the forenoon we saw the island of
Tenerife bearing west-south-west half west about twelve leagues
distant. It was covered with a thick haze except the
north-westernmost part which is a remarkable headland, resembling
a horse's head, the ears very distinct. To the eastward of this
head* lie two round rocks, the northern boundary of Tenerife. I
had a good observation at noon by which I make the latitude of
the two rocks 28 degrees 44 minutes north and their longitude by
our timekeeper 16 degrees 5 minutes west. To the southward of
these and near the shore is a high needle rock: about four
leagues farther to the southward the coast inclines towards the
west to the road of Santa Cruz, where we anchored at half-past
nine on Sunday morning in twenty-five fathoms water, and moored
along shore in the same depth, with the cupola tower of the
church of St. Francis bearing west half north one mile, the east
part of the road east by north, the castle on the south point
south-west, and the west part of the Grand Canary
south-south-east. A Spanish packet bound to Corunna, an American
brig, and several other vessels, were lying here.</p>
<blockquote>(*Footnote. South 82 degrees east by the compass.)</blockquote>
<p>As soon as the ship was anchored I sent an officer (Mr.
Christian) to wait on the governor and to acquaint him I had put
in to obtain refreshments and to repair the damages we had
sustained in bad weather. To this I had a very polite answer from
the governor, * that I should be supplied with whatever the
island afforded. I had also directed the officer to acquaint him
that I would salute, provided an equal number of guns were to be
returned but, as I received an extraordinary answer to this part
of my message, purporting that his excellency did not return the
same number but to persons equal in rank to himself, this
ceremony was omitted.</p>
<blockquote>(*Footnote. Marquis de Brancheforte.)</blockquote>
<p>During this interval I was visited by the port-master (Captain
Adams) and shortly afterwards several officers came on board from
his excellency to compliment me on my arrival. As soon as the
ship was moored I went on shore and paid my respects to him.</p>
<p>Monday 7.</p>
<p>On Monday morning I began to forward the ship's business with
the utmost dispatch, and gave the necessary directions to Messrs.
Collogan and sons, the contractors, for the supplies I wanted. I
also got leave of the governor for Mr. Nelson to range the hills
and examine the country in search of plants and natural
curiosities.</p>
<p>As there was a great surf on the shore I bargained for
everything I wanted to be brought off by the shore boats, and
agreed to give five shillings per ton for water. Very good wine
was bought at ten pounds per pipe, the contract price; but the
superior quality was fifteen pounds; and some of this was not
much inferior to the best London Madeira. I found this was an
unfavourable season for other refreshments: Indian corn,
potatoes, pumpkins, and onions, were all very scarce and double
the price of what they are in summer. Beef also was difficult to
be procured and exceedingly poor; the price nearly sixpence
farthing per pound. The corn was three current dollars per
fanega, which is full five shillings per bushel; and biscuit at
twenty-five shillings for the hundred pounds. Poultry was so
scarce that a good fowl cost three shillings. This is therefore
not a place for ships to expect refreshments at a reasonable
price at this time of the year, wine excepted; but from March to
November supplies are plentiful, particularly fruit, of which at
this time we could procure none except a few dried figs and some
bad oranges.</p>
<p>NAUTICAL REMARKS.</p>
<p>During our stay here the weather was fair with north-east
winds and calms and small drizzling rain in the night. The
thermometer from 66 to 69 degrees at noon in the shade. I could
make no lunar observations for the longitude, but by the help of
the timekeeper I have computed the situation of the town of Santa
Cruz to be 28 degrees 28 minutes north latitude and 16 degrees 18
minutes west longitude. I observed the variation by two compasses
to be 20 degrees 1 minute west: this much exceeded what I could
have imagined; for in 1776 I observed it only 14 degrees 40
minutes west; a difference of above five degrees in eleven years:
and this makes me reflect on the uncertainty of obtaining the
exact deviation of the magnetic pole, and of course its annual
variation which never can be accurately ascertained unless the
observations are made always in one spot and with the same
compass.</p>
<p>Tenerife, though considerably without the tropic, is so nearly
within the limits of the tradewind that navigators generally
steer to it from the eastward. The road of Santa Cruz lies on the
east side of the island, at the end of a range of craggy hills,
barren and very lofty, along with you sail west by south by
compass into the road, with a sea unfathomable until near the
shore. The anchoring ground may be accounted from fifty fathoms
to twenty, or even fifteen. The bank is very steep and gives but
little time to sound; for which reason it should be done
effectually with a heavy lead, or a ship will be too near in
before a stranger is aware of it: he will likewise too soon
expect to find bottom, owing to the great deception of the
adjacent high land. To obviate these difficulties it is necessary
to observe that while a town which lies some distance to the
southward of Santa Cruz is open with the castle on the south part
of the road, though you may appear near to the shore, there is no
anchorage; but after it is shut entirely in you get on the bank.
The church bearing west or west by south and the south point of
the road south-west half south to south-west by west is a good
situation for anchoring: the depth about twenty-five fathoms. The
distance from the shore will be three quarters of a mile; and the
southernmost land that can be seen then will be a half or quarter
point of the compass farther out than the south point of the
road.</p>
<p>The bottom is black soft mud, with some patches of rocks; for
which reason vessels that lie here any length of time buoy their
cables. This precaution, besides being useful in that particular,
they think makes them ride more easy when there is much sea
setting into the road, which, with the wind any way to the
southward of east or at south-west, must be very considerable; it
is therefore usual to moor with four anchors, though more than
two are scarce ever of use. Mooring is however advisable if a
ship is only to remain twenty-four hours, and the tighter the
better, that the cables may keep clear of the ground.</p>
<p>The landing on the beach is generally impracticable with our
own boats, at least without great risk; but there is a very fine
pier on which people may land without difficulty if there is not
much swell in the road. To this pier the water is conveyed by
pipes for the use of shipping, and for which all merchant-ships
pay.</p>
<p>There is a degree of wretchedness and want among the lower
class of people which is not anywhere so common as among the
Spanish and Portuguese settlements. To alleviate these evils the
present governor of Tenerife has instituted a most charitable
society which he takes the trouble to superintend; and by
considerable contributions a large airy dwelling that contains
one hundred and twenty poor girls and as many men and boys has
been built and endowed with a sufficiency of land round it, not
only for all present purposes but for enlarging the building for
more objects of charity as their funds increase. I had the honour
to be shown by his excellency this asylum (Hospicio they call it)
where there appeared in every countenance the utmost cheerfulness
and content. The decency and neatness of the dress of the young
females, with the order in which they were arranged at their
spinning-wheels and looms in an extensive airy apartment, was
admirable. A governess inspected and regulated all their works,
which were the manufacturing of ribbons of all colours, coarse
linens, and tapes; all which were managed and brought to
perfection by themselves from the silk and flax in their first
state; even the dying of the colours is performed by them. These
girls are received for five years, at the end of which they are
at liberty to marry, and have for their portions their wheel and
loom, with a sum of money proportioned to the state of the fund,
which is assisted by the produce of their labour, and at this
time was estimated at two thousand dollars per annum.</p>
<p>The men and boys are not less attended to: they are employed
in coarser work, blanketing and all kinds of common woollens: if
they become infirm they spend the remainder of their days here
comfortably and under a watchful inspector who attends them in
the same manner as the governess does the girls. They are all
visited every day by the governor, and a clergyman attends them
every evening. By this humane institution a number of people are
rendered useful and industrious in a country where the poor, from
the indulgence of the climate, are too apt to prefer a life of
inactivity, though attended with wretchedness, to obtaining the
comforts of life by industry and labour.</p>
<p>The number of inhabitants in the island I was informed were
estimated at between eighty and one hundred thousand. Their
annual export of wine is twenty thousand pipes and of brandy half
that quantity. Vessels are frequently here from St. Eustatia, and
from thence a great quantity of Tenerife wine is carried to the
different parts of the West Indies, under the name of
Madeira.</p>
<p>Tenerife is considered of more value than all the other
Canaries: the inhabitants however, in scarce seasons, receive
supplies from the Grand Canary; but their vineyards here are said
to be greatly superior. Their produce of corn, though exceedingly
good, is not sufficient for their consumption; and owing to this
the Americans have an advantageous trade here for their flour and
grain, and take wine in return.</p>
<p>The town of Santa Cruz is about half a mile in extent each
way, built in a regular manner, and the houses in general large
and airy, but the streets are very ill paved. I am told that they
are subject to few diseases; but if any epidemic distemper breaks
out it is attended with the most fatal consequences, particularly
the smallpox, the bad effects of which they now endeavour to
counteract by inoculation. For this reason they are very
circumspect in admitting ships to have communication with the
shore without bills of health.</p>
<p>A sloop from London, called the Chance, William Meridith,
master, bound to Barbados, out nineteen days from the Downs, came
into the road the day before we sailed. She had suffered much by
the bad weather but, having brought no bill of health, the
governor would not allow any person to come on shore unless I
could vouch for them that no epidemic disease raged in England at
the time they sailed, which I was able to do, it being nearly at
the same time that I left the land; and by that means they had
the governor's permission to receive the supplies they wanted
without being obliged to perform quarantine.</p>
<p>Thursday 10.</p>
<p>Having finished our business at Tenerife on Thursday the 10th
we sailed with the wind at south-east, our ship's company all in
good health and spirits.</p>
<p>I now divided the people into three watches, and gave the
charge of the third watch to Mr. Fletcher Christian, one of the
mates. I have always considered this as a desirable regulation
when circumstances will admit of it on many accounts; and am
persuaded that unbroken rest not only contributes much towards
the health of a ship's company but enables them more readily to
exert themselves in cases of sudden emergency.</p>
<p>As it was my wish to proceed to Otaheite without stopping I
ordered everybody to be at two-thirds allowance of bread: I also
directed the water for drinking to be filtered though dripstones
that I had bought at Tenerife for that purpose.</p>
<p>In the evening we passed the south end of Tenerife which is a
round lump of land that, from the lowness of the contiguous land,
has at a distance the appearance of a separate island. By our run
from the bay of Santa Cruz I make the latitude of the south end
of Tenerife to be 28 degrees 6 minutes north.</p>
<p>We ran all night towards the south-south-west having the wind
at south-east. The next morning we could see nothing of the land.
I now made the ship's company acquainted with the intent of the
voyage and, having been permitted to hold out this encouragement
to them, I gave assurances of the certainty of promotion to
everyone whose endeavours should merit it.</p>
<p>The winds for some days after leaving Tenerife were mostly
from the southward. Fishing-lines and tackle were distributed
amongst the people and some dolphins were caught.</p>
<p>Thursday 17.</p>
<p>On the 17th the wind came round to the north-east and
continued steady in that quarter till the 25th on which day at
noon we were in 3 degrees 54 minutes north. As the cloudiness of
the sky gave us reason to expect much rain we prepared the
awnings with hoses for the convenience of saving water, in which
we were not disappointed. From this time to our meeting with the
south-east tradewind we had much wet weather, the air close and
sultry with calms, and light variable winds generally from the
southward.</p>
<p>Tuesday 29.</p>
<p>On the 29th there was so heavy a fall of rain that we caught
seven hundred gallons of water.</p>
<p>Thursday 31.</p>
<p>On the 31st, latitude at noon 2 degrees 5 minutes north, found
a current setting to the north-east at the rate of fourteen miles
in the twenty-four hours. The thermometer was at 82 degrees in
the shade, and 81 1/2 degrees at the surface of the sea, so that
the air and the water were within half a degree of the same
temperature. At eight o'clock in the evening we observed a
violent rippling in the sea about half a mile to the north-west
of us which had very much the appearance of breakers. This I
imagine to have been occasioned by a large school (or multitude)
of fish as it was exactly in the track the ship had passed, so
that if any real shoal had been there we must have seen it at the
close of the evening when a careful lookout was always kept.
However if it had appeared ahead of us instead of astern I should
certainly have tacked to avoid it. To such appearances I
attribute the accounts of many shoals within the tropics which
cannot be found anywhere but in maps. Our latitude at this time
was 2 degrees 8 minutes north and longitude 19 degrees 43 minutes
west. The next day we had more of these appearances from the
number of schools of fish by which the ship was surrounded.</p>
<p>February. Saturday 2.</p>
<p>This morning we saw a sail to the north-north-west but at too
great a distance to distinguish what she was.</p>
<p>Monday 4.</p>
<p>Had very heavy rain during which we nearly filled all our
empty water casks. So much wet weather, with the closeness of the
air, covered everything with mildew. The ship was aired below
with fires and frequently sprinkled with vinegar; and every
little interval of dry weather was taken advantage of to open all
the hatchways, and clean the ship, and to have all the people's
wet things washed and dried.</p>
<p>With this weather and light unsteady winds we advanced but 2
1/2 degrees in twelve days; at the end of which time we were
relieved by the south-east tradewind which we fell in with on the
6th at noon in latitude 1 degree 21 minutes north and longitude
20 degrees 42 minutes west.</p>
<p>Thursday 7.</p>
<p>The next afternoon we crossed the equinoctial line in
longitude 21 degrees 50 minutes west. The weather became fine and
the south-east tradewind was fresh and steady, with which we kept
a point free from the wind and got to the southward at a good
rate.</p>
<p>The weather continuing dry we put some of our bread in casks,
properly prepared for its reception, to preserve it from vermin:
this experiment we afterwards found answered exceedingly
well.</p>
<p>Saturday 16.</p>
<p>On the 16th at daylight we saw a sail to the southward. The
next day we came up with her and found her to be the British
Queen, Simon Paul, master, from London, bound to the Cape of Good
Hope on the whale-fishery. She sailed from Falmouth the 5th of
December, eighteen days before I left Spithead. By this ship I
wrote to England. At sunset she was almost out of sight
astern.</p>
<p>Monday 18.</p>
<p>In the course of this day's run the variation changed from
west to east. According to our observations the true and magnetic
meridians coincided in latitude 20 degrees 0 minutes south and
longitude 31 degrees 15 minutes west. At noon we were in latitude
20 degrees 44 minutes south and longitude 31 degrees 23 minutes
west. In our advances towards the south the wind had gradually
veered round to the east and was at this time at east-north-east.
The weather after crossing the Line had been fine and clear, but
the air so sultry as to occasion great faintness, the quicksilver
in the thermometer in the daytime standing at between 81 and 83
degrees, and one time at 85 degrees. In our passage through the
northern tropic the air was temperate, the sun having then high
south declination and the weather being generally fine till we
lost the north-east tradewind; but such a thick haze surrounded
the horizon that no object could be seen except at a very small
distance. The haze commonly cleared away at sunset and gathered
again at sunrise. Between the north-east and south-east
tradewinds the calms and rains, if of long continuance, are very
liable to produce sickness unless great attention is paid to
keeping the ship clean and wholesome by giving all the air
possible, drying between decks with fires, and drying and airing
the people's clothes and bedding. Besides these precautions we
frequently wetted with vinegar, and every evening the pumps were
used as ventilators. With these endeavours to secure health we
passed the low latitudes without a single complaint.</p>
<p>The currents we met with were by no means regular, nor have I
ever found them so in the middle of the ocean. However from the
channel to the southward as far as Madeira there is generally a
current setting to the south-south-east.</p>
<p>Thursday 21.</p>
<p>On the evening of the 21st a ship was seen in the north-east
but at too great a distance to distinguish of what country.</p>
<p>Friday 22.</p>
<p>The next day the wind came round to the north and north-west
so that we could no longer consider ourselves in the tradewind.
Our latitude at noon was 25 degrees 55 minutes south, longitude
36 degrees 29 minutes west. Variation of the compass three
degrees east.</p>
<p>Saturday 23.</p>
<p>Towards night the wind died away and we had some heavy showers
of rain of which we profited by saving a ton of good water. The
next day we caught a shark and five dolphins.</p>
<p>Tuesday 26.</p>
<p>We bent new sails and made other necessary preparations for
encountering the weather that was to be expected in a high
latitude. Our latitude at noon was 29 degrees 38 minutes south,
longitude 41 degrees 44 minutes west. Variation 7 degrees 13
minutes east. In the afternoon, the wind being westerly and
blowing strong in squalls, some butterflies and other insects
like what we call horseflies were blown on board of us. No birds
were seen except shearwaters. Our distance from the coast of
Brazil at this time was above 100 leagues.</p>
<p>March. Sunday 2.</p>
<p>In the forenoon, after seeing that every person was clean,
divine service was performed according to my usual custom on this
day. I gave to Mr. Fletcher Christian, whom I had before directed
to take charge of the third watch, a written order to act as
lieutenant.</p>
<p>Saturday 8.</p>
<p>We were at noon in latitude 36 degrees 50 minutes south and
longitude 52 degrees 53 minutes west. The last four days we
several times tried for soundings without finding bottom, though
considerably to the westward of Captain Wallis' track, who had
soundings at fifty-four fathoms depth in latitude 35 degrees 40
minutes south and longitude 49 degrees 54 minutes west. This day
we tried with two hundred and forty fathoms of line but did not
find bottom; at the same time, observing a rippling in the water,
we tried the current by mooring a keg with one hundred fathoms of
line, by which it appeared to run to the north-north-west at the
rate of a mile and a half per hour. By the noon observation
however we were eighteen miles to the southward of our reckoning.
In the afternoon we saw a turtle floating and, not having much
wind, hoisted a boat out and sent after it; but it was found to
be in a putrid state with a number of crabs feeding upon it.</p>
<p>The change of temperature began now to be sensibly felt, there
being a variation in the thermometer since yesterday of eight
degrees. That the people might not suffer by their own negligence
I gave orders for their light tropical clothing to be put by, and
made them dress in a manner more suited to a cold climate. I had
provided for this before I left England by giving directions for
such clothes to be purchased as were necessary.</p>
<p>Monday 10.</p>
<p>In the forenoon we struck soundings at eighty-three fathoms
depth; our latitude 40 degrees 8 minutes south and longitude 55
degrees 40 minutes west. This I conclude to have been near the
edge of the bank for, the wind being at south-south-west, we
stood towards the south-east; and after running fourteen miles in
that direction we could find no bottom with one hundred and sixty
fathoms of line. In the night we stood towards the
west-south-west with a southerly wind and got again into
soundings. The next day we saw a great number of whales of an
immense size that had two spout-holes on the back of the head.
Upon a complaint made to me by the master I found it necessary to
punish Matthew Quintal, one of the seamen, with two dozen lashes
for insolence and mutinous behaviour. Before this I had not had
occasion to punish any person on board.</p>
<p>Wednesday 12.</p>
<p>On the 12th we caught a porpoise by striking it with the
grains. Everyone eat heartily of it; and it was so well liked
that no part was wasted.</p>
<p>Friday 14.</p>
<p>On the 14th in the afternoon we saw a land-bird like a lark,
and passed part of a dead whale that had been left by some
whalers after they had taken the blubber off. Saw likewise two
strange sail. The next day at noon our latitude was 43 degrees 6
minutes south and longitude 58 degrees 42 minutes west. Had
soundings at seventy-five fathoms; the bottom a fine greenish
sand. Saw two hawks.</p>
<p>Sunday 16.</p>
<p>On the 16th another ship was seen to the west-north-west
standing to the northward. Latitude at noon 43 degrees 34 minutes
south. We continued running to the southward keeping in
soundings.</p>
<p>Wednesday 19.</p>
<p>On the 19th at noon by my account we were within twenty
leagues of Port Desire; but the wind blowing fresh from the
north-west with thick foggy weather I did not attempt to make the
land. We passed a good deal of rock-weed and saw many whales, and
albatrosses and other seabirds.</p>
<p>Thursday 20.</p>
<p>On the 20th at noon our latitude was 50 degrees 24 minutes
south and longitude 65 degrees 50 minutes west. In the afternoon
the wind, which had for some time past been northerly, suddenly
shifted to the west-south-west and blew hard.</p>
<p>Sunday 23.</p>
<p>We steered to the south-south-east and on the 23rd at two
o'clock in the morning we discovered the coast of Tierra del
Fuego bearing south-east. At nine in the forenoon we were off
Cape St. Diego, the eastern part of Tierra del Fuego. Observed
the variation here to be 21 degrees 23 east. The wind being
unfavourable I thought it more advisable to go round to the
eastward of Staten Land than to attempt passing through Straits
le Maire. The two opposite coasts of the Straits exhibited very
different appearances. The land of Tierra del Fuego hereabouts,
though the interior parts are mountainous, yet near the coast is
of a moderate height and, at the distance we were from it, had
not an unpromising appearance. The coast of Staten Land near the
Straits is mountainous and craggy, and remarkable for its high
peaked hills. Straits le Maire is a fair opening which cannot
well be mistaken; but if any doubt could remain, the different
appearances of the opposite shores would sufficiently make the
Straits known.</p>
<p>I did not sail within less than six leagues of the coast that
we might have the wind more regular and avoid being exposed to
the heavy squalls that came off from the land. At noon Cape St.
Anthony bore south and the westernmost of New Year's Isles
south-east one-quarter south, five or six leagues. Latitude
observed 54 degrees 28 minutes south, longitude 64 degrees 4
minutes west.</p>
<p>The sight of New Year's Harbour almost tempted me to put in;
but the lateness of the season and the people being in good
health determined me to lay aside all thoughts of refreshment
until we should reach Otaheite. At two o'clock in the afternoon
the easternmost of New Year's Isles, where Captain Cook observed
the latitude to be 55 degrees 40 minutes south, bore from us
south four leagues. We saw the entrance isles of New Year's
harbour at the back of which the land is very craggy and
mountainous. This must be a very convenient port to touch at as
the access to it is safe and easy. The harbour lies
south-south-east by compass from the north-east part of the
easternmost of the New Year's Islands.</p>
<p>About two leagues to the westward of Cape St. John I observed
the separation of the mountains that Captain Cook has taken
notice of, which has the appearance of Staten Land being there
divided into two islands.</p>
<p>At sunset Cape St. John bore south-south-east five or six
leagues. The land hereabouts is of less height and not so rugged
as near New Year's Harbour. The night coming on I could get no
good view of the coast near the Cape; and at daylight next
morning we were at too great a distance.</p>
<p>Monday 24.</p>
<p>We had stood to the southward all night with the wind at
west-south-west and south-west. At eight in the morning Cape St.
John bore north-west ten leagues distant. Soon after we lost
sight of the land.</p>
<p>From the result of my lunar observations, assisted by the
timekeeper, I make the longitude of the west side of Straits le
Maire 64 degrees 48 minutes west; the easternmost of the New
Year's isles 63 degrees 52 minutes west; and the longitude of
Cape St. John 63 degrees 19 minutes west.</p>
<p>In our run from the latitude of 12 degrees south to 48 degrees
south the ship was set 2 degrees 30 minutes to the eastward by
currents; and from the latitude of 48 degrees south to Staten
Land the currents set us to the westward 2 degrees 43 minutes;
which I imagine to have been occasioned by an indraught into the
Straits of Magellan.</p>
<p>From the time we lost sight of the land to the end of the
month we were struggling with bad weather and contrary winds.</p>
<p>Monday 31.</p>
<p>But on the morning of the 31st the wind came to the
north-north-east and made us entertain great hopes that we should
be able to accomplish our passage round the Cape without much
difficulty. At noon we were in latitude 60 degrees 1 minute south
and in 71 degrees 45 minutes west longitude, which is 8 degrees
26 minutes west of the meridian of Cape St. John. This flattering
appearance was not of long continuance: in the night the wind
became variable and next day settled again in the west and
north-west with very bad weather.</p>
<p>April. Wednesday 2.</p>
<p>On the 2nd in the morning the wind, which had blown fresh all
night from the north-west, came round to the south-west and
increased to a heavy gale. At six in the morning the storm
exceeded what I had ever met with before; and the sea, from the
frequent shifting of the wind, running in contrary directions,
broke exceeding high. Our ship however lay to very well under a
main and fore-stay sail. The gale continued with severe squalls
of hail and sleet the remainder of this and all the next day.</p>
<p>Friday 4.</p>
<p>On the 4th the wind was less violent but far from moderate.
With so much bad weather I found it necessary to keep a constant
fire night and day; and one of the watch always attended to dry
the people's wet clothes: and this I have no doubt contributed as
much to their health as to their comfort.</p>
<p>Our companions in this in hospitable region were albatrosses
and two beautiful kinds of birds, the small blue petrel and
pintada. A great many of these were frequently about the wake of
the ship, which induced the people to float a line with hooks
baited to endeavour to catch them and their attempts were
successful. The method they used was to fasten the bait a foot or
two before the hook and, by giving the line a sudden jerk when
the bird was at the bait, it was hooked in the feet or body.</p>
<p>Sunday 6.</p>
<p>On the 6th the weather was moderate and continued so till the
9th with the wind veering between the north-west and south-west;
of which we were able to take advantage.</p>
<p>Monday 7.</p>
<p>On the 7th observed the variation 27 degrees 9 minutes east;
our latitude 60 degrees 24 minutes south and longitude 75 degrees
54 minutes west.</p>
<p>Wednesday 9.</p>
<p>On the 9th at noon we were in latitude 59 degrees 31 minutes
south and our longitude 76 degrees 58 minutes west, which is
farther to the west than we had yet been. The weather was now
unfavourable again, blowing strong from the westward with a high
sea.</p>
<p>On the 10th we saw some fish which appeared spotted and about
the size of bonetos: these were the only fish we had seen in this
high latitude.</p>
<p>Saturday 12.</p>
<p>The stormy weather continued with a great sea. The ship now
began to complain and required to be pumped every hour; which was
no more than we had reason to expect from such a continuance of
gales of wind and high seas. The decks also became so leaky that
it was obliged to allot the great cabin, of which I made little
use except in fine weather, to those people who had wet berths to
hang their hammocks in, and by this means the between decks was
less crowded.</p>
<p>Every morning all the hammocks were taken down from where they
hung, and when the weather was too bad to keep them upon deck
they were put in the cabin; so that the between decks were
cleaned daily and aired with fires if the hatchways could not be
opened. With all this bad weather we had the additional
mortification to find at the end of every day that we were losing
ground; for notwithstanding our utmost exertions and keeping on
the most advantageous tacks (which if the weather had been at all
moderate would have sufficiently answered our purpose) yet the
greater part of the time we were doing little better than
drifting before the wind.</p>
<p>Sunday 13.</p>
<p>Birds as usual were about the ship and some of them caught;
and for the first time since we left Staten Land we saw some
whales. This morning, owing to the violent motion of the ship,
the cook fell and broke one of his ribs, and another man, by a
fall, dislocated his shoulder. The gunner who had the charge of a
watch was laid up with the rheumatism: and this was the first
sicklist that appeared on board the ship. The time of full moon
which was approaching made me entertain hopes that after that
period we should experience some change of wind or weather in our
favour; but the event did not at all answer our expectations. The
latitude at noon this day was 58 degrees 9 minutes south and
longitude 76 degrees 1 minute west.</p>
<p>As we caught a good many birds but which were all lean and
tasted fishy we tried an experiment upon them which succeeded
admirably. By keeping them cooped up and cramming them with
ground corn they improved wonderfully in a short time; so that
the pintada birds became as fine as ducks, and the albatrosses
were as fat, and not inferior in taste to, fine geese. Some of
the latter birds were caught that measured seven feet between the
extremities of the wings when spread. This unexpected supply came
very opportunely; for none of our livestock remained except hogs,
the sheep and poultry not being hardy enough to stand the
severity of the weather.</p>
<p>Sunday 20.</p>
<p>This morning the wind died away and we had a calm for a few
hours which gave us hopes that the next would be a more
favourable wind. A hog was killed for the ship's company which
gave them an excellent meal. Towards noon, to our great
disappointment, the wind sprang up again from the westward and in
the afternoon blew strong with snow and hailstorms.</p>
<p>Monday 21.</p>
<p>This was the second day after the full moon but, as I have
remarked before, it had no influence on the weather. At noon our
latitude was 58 degrees 31 minutes south and longitude 70 degrees
7 minutes west, which is near seven degrees to the eastward of
our situation on the morning of the 9th instant, when we had
advanced the farthest in our power to the westward, being then in
76 degrees 58 minutes west, three degrees to the west of Cape
Deseada, the west part of the Straits of Magellan; and at this
time we were 3 degrees 52 minutes to the east of it and hourly
losing ground.</p>
<p>It was with much concern I saw how hopeless and even
unjustifiable it was to persist any longer in attempting a
passage this way to the Society Islands. We had been thirty days
in this tempestuous ocean. At one time we had advanced so far to
the westward as to have a fair prospect of making our passage
round; but from that period hard gales of westerly wind had
continued without intermission, a few hours excepted, which, to
borrow an expression in Lord Anson's voyage, were "like the
elements drawing breath to return upon us with redoubled
violence." The season was now too far advanced for us to expect
more favourable winds or weather, and we had sufficiently
experienced the impossibility of beating round against the wind,
or of advancing at all without the help of a fair wind for which
there was little reason to hope. Another consideration which had
great weight with me was that, if I persisted in my attempt this
way and should after all fail to get round, it would occasion
such a loss of time that our arrival at Otaheite soon enough to
return in the proper season by the East Indies would be rendered
precarious. On the other hand the prevalence of the westerly
winds in high southern latitudes left me no reason to doubt of
making a quick passage to the Cape of Good Hope and thence to the
eastward round New Holland.</p>
<p>Tuesday 22.</p>
<p>Having maturely considered all circumstances I determined to
bear away for the Cape of Good Hope; and at five o'clock on the
evening of the 22nd, the wind then blowing strong at west, I
ordered the helm to be put a weather, to the great joy of every
person on board. Our sicklist at this time had increased to
eight, mostly with rheumatic complaints: in other respects the
people were in good health, though exceedingly jaded.</p>
<p>The passage round Cape Horn into the South Seas during the
summer months has seldom been attended with difficulty and is to
be preferred in the moderate seasons to the more distant route to
the eastward round the Cape of Good Hope and New Holland. If we
had been one month earlier, or perhaps less, I doubt not but we
should have effected our passage.</p>
<p>The soundings that are met with off the coast of America, from
the latitude of 36 degrees south to the southward, are very
convenient to enable ships to judge of their distance from the
land, as thick fogs are very frequent near that coast. If the
winds are favourable, to go through Straits le Maire must
considerably shorten the passage round Cape Horn, as all the
distance saved is so much gained to the westward. I am informed
that several harbours have been lately discovered by the South
Sea whalers on the north side of Staten Island that afford safe
anchorage with supplies of wood and water.</p>
<p>While we were off Cape Horn I did not observe that our
situation was at all affected by currents.</p>
<hr align="center" width="50%">
<p><a name="ch3"></a></p>
<h2>CHAPTER 3.</h2>
<blockquote><b>Passage towards the Cape of Good Hope and Search after Tristan da Cunha.<br>
Arrival at False Bay.<br>
Occurrences there.<br>
Reports concerning the Grosvenor's People.<br>
Departure from the Cape.</b></blockquote>
<p>1788. April. Friday 25.</p>
<p>The westerly winds and stormy weather continuing gave me no
reason to repent of my determination. On the 25th at noon we were
in latitude 54 degrees 16 minutes south and longitude 57 degrees
4 minutes west. The nearest of the Falkland Islands by my
reckoning then bore north 13 degrees west; distance 23 leagues.
Our stock of water being sufficient to serve us to the Cape of
Good Hope I did not think it worth while to stop at these islands
as the refreshment we might obtain there would scarce repay us
for the expense of time: we therefore continued our course
towards the north-east and east-north-east.</p>
<p>May. Friday 9.</p>
<p>On the 9th of May at eight o'clock in the evening we were near
the situation of Tristan da Cunha, our latitude being 37 degrees
7 minutes south and longitude 15 degrees 26 minutes west. All the
afternoon the weather had been clear enough for land of a
moderate height to be seen at least seven leagues; I therefore
concluded that we had not yet passed the meridian of the island;
for the most western position given to it from any authority is
15 degrees 0 minutes west.</p>
<p>As I wished to make this island we kept our wind on different
tacks during the night, that we might be nearly in the same place
at daylight in the morning as on the preceding evening: in the
morning no land being in sight we continued to steer to the
eastward.</p>
<p>Saturday 10.</p>
<p>We ran on all day having clear weather but without seeing
anything to indicate our being near land. At noon our latitude
observed was 37 degrees 27 minutes south which, being more to the
southward than we had reason to expect, I altered the course to
the northward and steered north-east all the afternoon. At six
o'clock in the evening we were in latitude 37 degrees 0 minutes
south and longitude 12 degrees 42 minutes west, having a clear
horizon but not the least sign of being in the neighbourhood of
land. With the night came thick rainy weather and we were now to
the eastward of the situation ascribed to Tristan da Cunha; I
therefore determined to give over the search and to resume our
course towards the Cape of Good Hope.</p>
<p>The island of Tristan da Cunha, by Robertson's Elements, is
laid down in 37 degrees 12 minutes south latitude and 13 degrees
23 minutes west longitude. In Captain Cook's general map,
prefixed to his last voyage, it is placed in the same latitude
but in 15 degrees west longitude. From our track and the
clearness of the weather I am convinced, if the latitude ascribed
to it as above is correct, that it is not to be found between the
meridians of 16 degrees 30 minutes west and 12 degrees 30 minutes
west. On the 13th I had a number of lunar observations for the
longitude, the mean of which agreed exactly with the
timekeeper.*</p>
<blockquote>(*Footnote. In Mr. Dalrymple's Collection of Plans which I had
not with me the northernmost of the Islands of Tristan d'Acunha
is placed in latitude 37 degrees 22 minutes south and longitude
13 degrees 17 minutes west. I think it probable we missed them by
being too much to the northward.</blockquote>
<p>In this passage the weather was generally so cloudy that I had
few opportunities to make observations of any kind except for the
noon latitudes. I could not determine when we crossed the line of
no variation. The two nearest observations to it were: the first
in 39 degrees 51 minutes south latitude and 26 degrees 11 minutes
west longitude, where the variation of the compass was found to
be 3 degrees 17 minutes east; and the other in latitude 35
degrees 30 minutes south and longitude 5 degrees 21 minutes west,
where I observed the variation 11 degrees 35 minutes west;
between these we had no intermediate observation for the
variation.</p>
<p>Thursday 22.</p>
<p>At two in the afternoon we saw the Table Mountain of the Cape
of Good Hope. As it is reckoned unsafe riding in Table Bay at
this time of year I steered for False Bay. The next evening we
anchored in the outer part.</p>
<p>Saturday 24.</p>
<p>And on the forenoon of the 24th got the ship secured in
Simon's Bay, which is in the inner part of False Bay. When
moored, Noah's ark bore south 35 degrees east three-quarters of a
mile, and the hospital south 72 west. We found lying here one
outward bound Dutch Indiaman, five other Dutch ships, and a
French ship.</p>
<p>After saluting the fort, which was returned by an equal number
of guns, I went on shore and dispatches were sent away to Cape
Town to acquaint the governor of our arrival. A Dutch ship at
this time lying in Table Bay bound for Europe, I sent letters by
her to the Admiralty. It is very unusual for ships to be in Table
Bay so late in the year, on account of the strong north-west
winds. April is the time limited.</p>
<p>I gave the necessary directions for getting our wants
supplied. The ship required to be caulked in every part for she
was become so leaky that we had been obliged to pump every hour
in our passage from Cape Horn. This we immediately set about, as
well as repairing our sails and rigging. The severe weather we
had met with and the leakiness of the ship made it necessary to
examine into the state of all the stores and provisions. Of the
latter a good deal was found damaged, particularly the bread. The
timekeeper I took on shore to ascertain its rate, and other
instruments to make the necessary astronomical observations.
Fresh meat, with soft bread and plenty of vegetables, were issued
daily to the ship's company the whole time we remained here. A
few days after our arrival I went over to Cape Town and waited on
his excellency M. Vander Graaf, the governor, who obligingly
arranged matters so much to our advantage that we scarcely felt
the inconvenience of being at a distance from the Cape Town,
whence we received all our supplies.</p>
<p>The Cape Town is considerably increased within the last eight
years. Its respectability with regard to strength has kept pace
with its other enlargements and rendered it very secure against
any attempt which is not made with considerable force. Great
attention is paid to military order and discipline; and monthly
signals are established to communicate with their shipping as
they arrive near the coast that they may not run unawares into
the hands of an enemy. I found everything much dearer than when I
was here in 1780. Sheep cost four Spanish dollars each and were
so small that it answered better to purchase the mutton for the
ship's daily use at fourpence per pound.</p>
<p>During our stay here I took care to procure seeds and plants
that would be valuable at Otaheite and the different places we
might touch at in our way thither. In this I was greatly assisted
by colonel Gordon, the commander of the troops. In company with
this gentleman the loss of the Grosvenor East Indiaman was
mentioned: on this subject colonel Gordon expressed great concern
that from anything he had said hopes were still entertained to
flatter the affectionate wishes of the surviving friends of those
unfortunate people. He said that in his travels into the Caffre
country he had met with a native who described to him that there
was a white woman among his countrymen who had a child, and that
she frequently embraced the child and cried most violently. This
was all he (the colonel) could understand and, being then on his
return home with his health much impaired by fatigue, the only
thing that he could do was to make a friend of the native by
presents and promises of reward on condition that he would take a
letter to this woman and bring him back an answer. Accordingly he
wrote letters in English, French, and Dutch desiring that some
sign or mark might be returned, either by writing with a burnt
stick or by any means she should be able to devise, to satisfy
him that she was there; and that on receiving such token from her
every effort should be made to ensure her safety and escape. But
the Caffre, although apparently delighted with the commission
which he had undertaken, never returned, nor has the colonel ever
heard anything more of him, though he had been instructed in
methods of conveying information through the Hottentot
country.</p>
<p>To this account, that I may not again have occasion to
introduce so melancholy a subject, I shall add the little
information I received respecting it when I revisited the Cape in
my return towards Europe. A reputable farmer of the name of
Holhousen, who lives at Swellendam, eight days journey from the
Cape, had information from some Caffre Hottentots that at a kraal
or village in their country there were white men and women. On
this intelligence Mr. Holhousen asked permission of the governor
to make an expedition with some of the farmers into the country,
requiring a thousand rix-dollars to bear his expenses. The
governor referred him to Mr. Wocke, the Landros of Graaf Rienet,
a new colony in his way. But from the place where Mr. Holhousen
lives to the Landros, Mr. Wocke's residence, is a month's
journey, which he did not choose to undertake at an uncertainty,
as Mr. Wocke might have disapproved of the enterprise. It was in
October last that Mr. Holhousen offered to go on this service. He
was one of the party who went along the sea-coast in search of
these unfortunate people when a few of them first made their
appearance at the Cape. I am however informed that the Dutch
farmers are fond of making expeditions into the country, that
they may have opportunities of taking away cattle; and this I
apprehend to be one of the chief reasons why undertakings of this
kind are not encouraged.</p>
<p>On the 13th of June the Dublin East Indiaman arrived from
England, on board of which ship was a party of the 77th regiment
under the command of colonel Balfour.</p>
<p>The result of my lunar observations gave for the longitude of
Simon's Bay 18 degrees 48 minutes 34 seconds east; the latitude
34 degrees 11 minutes 34 seconds south. The timekeeper likewise
made the longitude 18 degrees 47 minutes east. The longitude as
established by former observations is 18 degrees 33 minutes east.
The variation of the compass on shore was 24 degrees 4 minutes
west; but on board of the ship it was only 22 degrees 28 minutes
west. The time of high-water was three-quarters past two on the
full and change and it then flowed six feet.</p>
<p>With respect to the Cape Promontory it lies about three miles
east of the meridian of Simon's Town. All the tables of latitude
and longitude place the Cape in 34 degrees 29 minutes south
latitude; but from many observations off it with good instruments
I make it to lie in 34 degrees 23 minutes south, which agrees
with its situation as laid down in major Rennel's map. The part
which I call the Cape is the southernmost point of the land
between Table Bay and False Bay; but the Dutch consider the
westernmost part of the coast to be the Cape.</p>
<p>Sunday 29.</p>
<p>On the 29th, being ready for sea, I took the timekeeper and
instruments on board. The error of the timekeeper was 3 minutes 33
seconds, 2 too slow for the mean time at Greenwich, and its rate
of going 3 seconds per day, losing. The thermometer during our
stay here was from 51 to 66 degrees.</p>
<p>July. Tuesday 1.</p>
<p>We had been thirty-eight days at this place, and my people had
received all the advantage that could be derived from the
refreshments of every kind that are here to be met with. We
sailed at four o'clock this afternoon, and saluted the platform
with thirteen guns as we ran out of the bay, which were
returned.</p>
<hr align="center" width="50%">
<p><a name="ch4"></a></p>
<h2>CHAPTER 4.</h2>
<blockquote><b>Passage towards Van Diemen's Land.<br>
Make the Island of St. Paul.<br>
Arrival in Adventure Bay.<br>
Natives seen.<br>
Sail from Van Diemen's Land.</b></blockquote>
<p>1788. July.</p>
<p>We lost sight of the land the day after leaving False Bay and
steered towards the east-south-east, having variable winds the
first week with much thunder, lightning and rain. The remainder
of this passage the winds were mostly between the south and west
blowing strong. There were almost every day great numbers of
pintada, albatrosses, blue petrels, and other oceanic birds about
us; but it was observed that if the wind came from the northward,
only for a few hours, the birds generally left us, and their
presence again was the forerunner of a southerly wind.</p>
<p>Sunday 13.</p>
<p>The variation of the compass was 30 degrees 34 minutes west
which was the greatest variation we found in this track. Our
latitude 36 degrees 28 minutes south and longitude 39 degrees 0
minutes east.</p>
<p>Sunday 20.</p>
<p>The latitude at noon was 40 degrees 30 minutes south and
longitude 60 degrees 7 minutes east. We were at this time
scudding under the fore-sail and close-reefed main-top-sail, the
wind blowing strong from the west. An hour after noon the gale
increased and blew with so much violence that the ship was almost
driven forecastle under before we could get the sails clewed up.
As soon as the sails were taken in we brought the ship to the
wind, lowered the lower yards, and got the top-gallant-masts upon
deck, which eased the ship very much.</p>
<p>Monday 21.</p>
<p>We remained lying to till eight the next morning when we bore
away under a reefed fore-sail. In the afternoon the sea ran so
high that it became very unsafe to stand on: we therefore brought
to the wind again, and remained lying to all night without
accident excepting that the man at the steerage was thrown over
the wheel and much bruised.</p>
<p>Tuesday 22.</p>
<p>Towards noon the violence of the storm abated and we again
bore away under the reefed fore-sail. Our latitude at noon 38
degrees 49 minutes south: in the afternoon saw some whales.</p>
<p>We continued running to the eastward in this parallel, it
being my intention to make the island St. Paul.</p>
<p>Monday 28.</p>
<p>On Monday the 28th at six in the morning we saw the island
bearing east by north 12 leagues distant: between 10 and 11
o'clock we ran along the south side at about a league distant
from the shore. There was a verdure that covered the higher parts
of the land, but I believe it was nothing more than moss which is
commonly found on the tops of most rocky islands in these
latitudes. We saw several whales near the shore. The extent of
this island is five miles from east to west; and about two or
three from north to south. As we passed the east end we saw a
remarkable high sugarloaf rock, abreast of which I have been
informed is good anchorage in 23 fathoms, the east point bearing
south-west by south by true compass. I had this information from
the captain of a Dutch packet in which I returned to Europe. He
likewise said there was good fresh water on the island and a hot
spring which boiled fish in as great perfection as on a fire. By
his account the latitude which he observed in the road is 38
degrees 39 minutes south; and from the anchoring place the island
of Amsterdam was in sight to the northward. We had fair weather
all the forenoon, but just at noon a squall came on which was
unfavourable for our observation. I had however two sets of
double altitudes and a good altitude exactly at noon according to
the timekeeper. The result of these gave for the latitude of the
centre of St. Paul 38 degrees 47 minutes south. The longitude I
make 77 degrees 39 minutes east. The variation of the compass,
taking the mean of what it was observed to be the day before we
saw the island and the day after, is 19 degrees 30 minutes
west.</p>
<p>At noon we were three leagues past the island. We kept on
towards the east-south-east, and for several days continued to
see rock-weed, which is remarked to be generally the case after
ships pass St. Paul's; but to the westward of it very seldom any
is seen.</p>
<p>August. Wednesday 13.</p>
<p>In latitude 44 degrees 16 minutes south, longitude 122 degrees
7 minutes east, I observed the variation of the compass to be 6
degrees 23 minutes west. I had no opportunity to observe it again
till in the latitude of 43 degrees 56 minutes south, longitude
133 degrees 16 minutes east, when it was 1 degree 38 minutes
east; so that we had passed the line of no variation. In 1780, on
board the Resolution in latitude 44 degrees 23 minutes south,
longitude 131 degrees 28 minutes east, the variation was observed
6 degrees 0 minutes west, which is a remarkable difference. We
had much bad weather with snow and hail, and in our approach to
Van Diemen's Land nothing was seen to indicate the nearness of
the coast, except a seal, when we were within the distance of 20
leagues.</p>
<p>Tuesday 19.</p>
<p>At ten o'clock this afternoon we saw the rock named the
Mewstone, that lies near the south-west cape of Van Diemen's
Land, bearing north-east about six leagues. The wind blew strong
from the north-west. As soon as we had passed the Mewstone we
were sheltered from a very heavy sea which ran from the westward.
At eight o'clock at night we were abreast of the south cape when
the wind became light and variable. Saw several fires inland.</p>
<p>The Mewstone is a high bold rock that lies five leagues to the
south-east of the south-west cape and is the part that all ships
bound this way should endeavour to make. Its latitude is 43
degrees 46 or 47 minutes. Several islands lie to the northward
between that and the main, among which, bearing north by west
from the Mewstone, is a high rock much resembling it; and
north-north-east from the Mewstone, on the mainland, is a
remarkable high mountain, which in this direction appears notched
like a cock's comb; but as viewed from the eastward seems
round.</p>
<p>Wednesday 20.</p>
<p>All the 20th we were endeavouring to get into Adventure Bay
but were prevented by variable winds. The next morning at five
o'clock we anchored in the outer part, and at sunrise weighed
again: at noon we anchored well in the bay and moored the ship,
Penguin Island bearing north 57 1/2 degrees east, about two miles
distant; Cape Frederic Henry north 23 degrees east; and the mouth
of the Lagoon south 16 degrees east.</p>
<p>In our passage from the Cape of Good Hope the winds were
mostly from the westward with very boisterous weather: but one
great advantage that this season of the year has over the summer
months is in being free from fogs. I have already remarked that
the approach of strong southerly winds is announced by many kinds
of birds of the albatross or petrel tribe, and the abatement of
the gale, or a shift of wind to the northward, by their keeping
away. The thermometer also very quickly shows when a change of
these winds may be expected by varying sometimes six and seven
degrees in its height. I have reason to believe that, after we
passed the island St. Paul, there was a westerly current; the
ship being every day to the westward of the reckoning, which in
the whole, from St. Paul to Van Diemen's land, made a difference
of four degrees between the longitude by the reckoning and the
true longitude.</p>
<p>Thursday 21.</p>
<p>The ship being moored I went in a boat to look out for the
most convenient place to wood and water at, which I found to be
at the west end of the beach: for the surf, though considerable,
was less there than at any other part of the bay. The water was
in a gully about sixty yards from the beach; it was perfectly
good but, being only a collection from the rains, the place is
always dry in the summer months; for we found no water in it when
I was here with Captain Cook in January 1777. We had very little
success in hauling the seine; about twenty small flounders, and
flat-headed fish called foxes were all that were taken.</p>
<p>I found no signs of the natives having lately frequented this
bay or of any European vessels having been here since the
Resolution and Discovery in 1777. From some of the old trunks of
trees then cut down I saw shoots about twenty-five feet high and
fourteen inches in circumference.</p>
<p>In the evening I returned on board.</p>
<p>Friday 22.</p>
<p>The next morning, the 22nd, at daylight, a party was sent on
shore for wooding and watering under the command of Mr. Christian
and the gunner; and I directed that one man should be constantly
employed in washing the people's clothes. There was so much surf
that the wood was obliged to be rafted off in bundles to the
boat. Mr. Nelson informed me that in his walks today he saw a
tree in a very healthy state which he measured and found to be
thirty-three feet and a half in girt; its height was proportioned
to its bulk.</p>
<p>Saturday 23.</p>
<p>The surf was rather greater than yesterday which very much
interrupted our wooding and watering. Nelson today picked up a
male opossum that had been recently killed, or had died, for we
could not perceive any wound unless it had received a blow on the
back where there was a bare place about the size of a shilling.
It measured fourteen inches from the ears to the beginning of the
tail which was exactly the same length.</p>
<p>Most of the forest trees were at this time shedding their
bark. There are three kinds, which are distinguished from each
other by their leaves, though the wood appears to be the same.
Many of them are full one hundred and fifty feet high; but most
of those that we cut down were decayed at the heart. There are,
besides the forest trees, several other kinds that are firm good
wood and may be cut for most purposes except masts; neither are
the forest trees good for masts, on account of their weight, and
the difficulty of finding them thoroughly sound. Mr. Nelson
asserted that they shed their bark every year, and that they
increase more from the seed than by suckers.</p>
<p>I found the tide made a difference of full two feet in the
height of the water in the lake at the back of the beach. At high
water it was very brackish, but at low tide it was perfectly
fresh to the taste, and soap showed no sign of its being the
least impregnated. We had better success in fishing on board the
ship than by hauling the seine on shore; for with hooks and lines
a number of fine rock-cod were caught. I saw today several
eagles, some beautiful blue-plumaged herons, and a great variety
of parakeets. A few oyster-catchers and gulls were generally
about the beach, and in the lake a few wild ducks.</p>
<p>Monday 25.</p>
<p>Being in want of plank I directed a saw-pit to be dug and
employed some of the people to saw trees into plank. The greater
part of this week the winds were moderate with unsettled
weather.</p>
<p>Friday 29.</p>
<p>On Friday it blew strong from the south-west with rain,
thunder, and lightning. We continued to catch fish in sufficient
quantities for everybody and had better success with the seine.
We were fortunate also in angling in the lake where we caught
some very fine tench. Some of the people felt a sickness from
eating mussels that were gathered from the rocks; but I believe
it was occasioned by eating too many. We found some spider-crabs,
most of them not good, being the female sort and out of season.
The males were tolerably good and were known by the smallness of
their two fore-claws or feeders. We saw the trunk of a dead tree
on which had been cut A.D. 1773. The figures were very distinct;
even the slips made with the knife were discernible. This must
have been done by some of captain Furneaux's people in March
1773, fifteen years before. The marks of the knife remaining so
unaltered, I imagine the tree must have been dead when it was
cut; but it serves to show the durability of the wood for it was
perfectly sound at this time. I shot two gannets: these birds
were of the same size as those in England; their colour is a
beautiful white, with the wings and tail tipped with jet black
and the top and back of the head of a very fine yellow. Their
feet were black with four claws, on each of which was a yellow
line the whole length of the foot. The bill was four inches long,
without nostrils, and very taper and sharp-pointed.</p>
<p>The east side of the bay being not so thick of wood as the
other parts, and the soil being good, I fixed on it, at Nelson's
recommendation, as the most proper situation for planting some of
the fruit-trees which I had brought from the Cape of Good Hope. A
circumstance much against anything succeeding here is that in the
dry season the fires made by the natives are apt to communicate
to the dried grass and underwood, and to spread in such a manner
as to endanger everything that cannot bear a severe scorching. We
however chose what we thought the safest situations, and planted
three fine young apple-trees, nine vines, six plantain-trees, a
number of orange and lemon-seed, cherry-stones, plum, peach, and
apricot-stones, pumpkins, also two sorts of Indian corn, and
apple and pear kernels. The ground is well adapted for the trees,
being of a rich loamy nature. The spot where we made our
plantation was clear of underwood; and we marked the trees that
stood nearest to the different things which were planted. Nelson
followed the circuit of the bay, planting in such places as
appeared most eligible. I have great hopes that some of these
articles will succeed. The particular situations I had described
in my survey of this place, but I was unfortunately prevented
from bringing it home. Near the watering place likewise we
planted on a flat, which appeared a favourable situation, some
onions, cabbage-roots, and potatoes.</p>
<p>For some days past a number of whales were seen in the bay.
They were of the same kind as those we had generally met with
before, having two blow-holes on the back of the head.</p>
<p>September. Monday 1.</p>
<p>On the night of the 1st of September we observed for the first
time signs of the natives being in the neighbourhood. Fires were
seen on the low land near Cape Frederick Henry, and at daylight
we saw the natives with our glasses. As I expected they would
come round to us I remained all the forenoon near the wooding and
watering parties, making observations, the morning being very
favourable for that purpose. I was however disappointed in my
conjecture for the natives did not appear, and there was too
great a surf for a boat to land on the part where we had seen
them.</p>
<p>Tuesday 2.</p>
<p>The natives not coming near us, I determined to go after them,
and we set out in a boat towards Cape Frederick Henry, where we
arrived about eleven o'clock. I found landing impracticable and
therefore came to a grapnel, in hopes of their coming to us, for
we had passed several fires. After waiting near an hour I was
surprised to see Nelson's assistant come out of the wood: he had
wandered thus far in search of plants and told me that he had met
with some of the natives. Soon after we heard their voices like
the cackling of geese, and twenty persons came out of the wood,
twelve of whom went round to some rocks where the boat could get
nearer to the shore than we then were. Those who remained behind
were women.</p>
<p>We approached within twenty yards of them, but there was no
possibility of landing and I could only throw to the shore, tied
up in paper, the presents which I intended for them. I showed the
different articles as I tied them up, but they would not untie
the paper till I made an appearance of leaving them. They then
opened the parcels and, as they took the articles out, placed
them on their heads. On seeing this I returned towards them when
they instantly put everything out of their hands and would not
appear to take notice of anything that we had given them. After
throwing a few more beads and nails on shore I made signs for
them to go to the ship, and they likewise made signs for me to
land, but as this could not be effected I left them, in hopes of
a nearer interview at the watering-place.</p>
<p>When they first came in sight they made a prodigious
clattering in their speech and held their arms over their heads.
They spoke so quick that I could not catch one single word they
uttered. We recollected one man whom we had formerly seen among
the party of the natives that came to us in 1777, and who is
particularised in the account of Captain Cook's last voyage for
his humour and deformity. Some of them had a small stick, two or
three feet long, in their hands, but no other weapon.</p>
<p>Their colour, as Captain Cook remarks, is a dull black: their
skin is scarified about their shoulders and breast. They were of
a middle stature, or rather below it. One of them was
distinguished by his body being coloured with red ochre, but all
the others were painted black with a kind of soot which was laid
on so thick over their faces and shoulders that it is difficult
to say what they were like.</p>
<p>They ran very nimbly over the rocks, had a very quick sight,
and caught the small beads and nails which I threw to them with
great dexterity. They talked to us sitting on their heels with
their knees close into their armpits and were perfectly
naked.</p>
<p>In my return towards the ship I landed at the point of the
harbour near Penguin Island, and from the hills saw the water on
the other side of the low isthmus of Cape Frederick Henry, which
forms the bay of that name. It is very extensive and in, or near,
the middle of the bay there is a low island. From this spot it
has the appearance of being a very good and convenient
harbour.</p>
<p>The account which I had from Brown, the botanist's assistant,
was that in his search for plants he had met an old man, a young
woman, and two or three children. The old man at first appeared
alarmed, but became familiar on being presented with a knife. He
nevertheless sent away the young woman who went very reluctantly.
He saw some miserable wigwams, in which were nothing but a few
kangaroo skins spread on the ground, and a basket made of
rushes.</p>
<p>Among the wood that we cut here we found many scorpions and
centipedes, with numerous black ants that were an inch long. We
saw no mosquitoes, though in the summer months they are very
troublesome.</p>
<p>What is called the New Zealand tea plant grew here in great
abundance; so that it was not only gathered and dried to use as
tea but made excellent brooms. It bears a small pointed leaf of a
pleasant smell, and its seed is contained in a berry, about the
size of a pea, notched into five equal parts on the top. The soil
on the west and south sides of the bay is black mould with a
mixture of fine white sand and is very rich. The trees are lofty
and large, and the underwood grows so close together that in many
places it is impassable. The east side of the bay is a rich loamy
soil; but near the tops of the hills is very much encumbered with
stones and rocks: the underwood thinly placed and small. The
trees on the south, south-east, and south-west sides of the hills
grow to a larger size than those that are exposed to the opposite
points; for the sides of the trees open or exposed to the north
winds are naked with few branches; while the other sides are in a
flourishing state. From this I do not infer that the equatorial
are more hurtful than the polar winds; but that the trees by
their situation were more sheltered from the one for from the
other.</p>
<p>Wednesday 3.</p>
<p>A calm prevented our sailing today. The friendly interview
which we had had with the natives made me expect that they would
have paid us a visit; but we saw nothing more of them except
fires in the night upon the low land to the northward.</p>
<p>The result of the observations which I made here, reduced to
Penguin Island, place it in 43 degrees 21 minutes 11 seconds
south latitude and in longitude 147 degrees 33 minutes 29 seconds
east, which scarcely differs from the observations made in 1777.
The variation of the compass observed on shore was 8 degrees 38
minutes east; and on board the ship 8 degrees 29 minutes east. It
was high-water at the change of the moon at 49 minutes past six
in the morning. The rise was two feet eight inches. Southerly
winds, if of any continuance, make a considerable difference in
the height of the tides.</p>
<p>Thursday 4.</p>
<p>This forenoon, having a pleasant breeze at north-west, we
weighed anchor and sailed out of Adventure Bay. At noon the
southernmost part of Maria's Isles bore north 52 degrees east,
about five leagues distant; Penguin Island south 86 degrees west;
and Cape Frederick Henry north 65 degrees west. In this position
we had soundings at 57 fathoms, a sandy bottom. Latitude observed
43 degrees 22 minutes south.</p>
<p>The southern part of Maria's Islands lie in latitude 43
degrees 16 minutes south. The country is not in general woody,
but in some of the interior parts there appeared great abundance.
Among these islands I have no doubt of there being many
convenient places for shipping. On the east side in latitude 42
degrees 42 minutes south and longitude 148 degrees 24 minutes
east in July, 1789, Captain Cox of the Mercury found a convenient
and secure harbour from all winds which he named Oyster Bay. Here
he found wood, water, and fish in great abundance. It has two
outlets and lies north, a little easterly, distant 34 miles from
the south-easternmost island, or point, seen from Adventure
Bay.</p>
<p>Adventure Bay is a convenient and safe place for any number of
ships to take in wood and water during the summer months: but in
the winter, when the southerly winds are strong, the surf, on all
parts of the shore, makes the landing exceedingly troublesome.
The bay of Frederick Henry may perhaps be found preferable, as it
appears to be equally easy of access. The soundings in Adventure
Bay are very regular: near the west shore are some patches of
weed but no shoal or danger, the depth on them being from five to
nine fathoms.</p>
<hr align="center" width="50%">
<p><a name="ch5"></a></p>
<h2>CHAPTER 5.</h2>
<blockquote><b>Rocky Islands discovered.<br>
See the Island Maitea and arrive at Otaheite.<br>
Ship crowded by the Natives.</b></blockquote>
<p>1788. September.</p>
<p>Being clear of the land we steered towards the
east-south-east, it being my intention to pass to the southward
of New Zealand, as I expected in that route to meet with constant
westerly winds; in which however I was disappointed, for they
proved variable and frequently from the eastward blowing strong,
with thick misty weather. The thermometer varied from 41 to 46
degrees.</p>
<p>Sunday 14.</p>
<p>On the 14th at noon we were in 49 degrees 24 minutes south
latitude and in 168 degrees 3 minutes east longitude, which is on
the same meridian with the south end of New Zealand. We altered
our course, steering to the northward of east, and frequently saw
rock-weed which I supposed to have drifted from New Zealand. The
sea now became rougher from our being exposed to a long swell
which came from the north-east.</p>
<p>Friday 19.</p>
<p>On the 19th at daylight we discovered a cluster of small rocky
islands bearing east by north four leagues distant from us. We
had seen no birds or anything to indicate the nearness of land
except patches of rock-weed, for which the vicinity of New
Zealand sufficiently accounted. The wind being at north-east
prevented our near approach to these isles; so that we were not
less than three leagues distant in passing to the southward of
them. The weather was too thick to see distinctly: their extent
was only 3 1/2 miles from east to west and about half a league
from north to south: their number including the smaller ones was
thirteen. I could not observe any verdure on any of them: there
were white spots like patches of snow but, as Captain Cook, in
describing the land of New Zealand, near Cape South, says, in
many places there are patches like white marble, it is probable
that what we saw might be of the same kind as what he had
observed. The westernmost of these islands is the largest; they
are of sufficient height to be seen at the distance of seven
leagues from a ship's deck. When the easternmost bore north I
tried for soundings, being then 10 miles distant from the nearest
of them, and found bottom at 75 fathoms, a fine white sand: and
again at noon, having run six leagues more to the
east-south-east, we had soundings at 104 fathoms, a fine
brimstone-coloured sand. The latitude of these islands is 47
degrees 44 minutes south; their longitude 179 degrees 7 minutes
east, which is about 145 leagues to the east of the Traps, near
the south end of New Zealand. Variation of the compass here 17
degrees east. While in sight of the islands we saw some penguins,
and a white kind of gull with a forked tail. Captain Cook's track
in 1773 was near this spot, but he did not see the islands: he
saw seals and penguins hereabouts, but considered New Zealand to
be the nearest land. I have named them after the ship the Bounty
Isles.</p>
<p>Sunday 21.</p>
<p>This day we saw a seal, some rock-weed, and a great many
albatrosses. I tried for soundings but found no bottom at 230
fathoms depth. Our latitude 47 degrees 32 minutes south,
longitude 182 degrees 36 minutes east.</p>
<p>October. Thursday 2.</p>
<p>Were in 40 degrees 27 minutes south latitude and 214 degrees 4
minutes east longitude. It being calm, and a number of small
blubbers about the ship, I took up some in a bucket, but I saw no
difference between them and the common blubbers in the West
Indies. We frequently in the night-time observed the sea to be
covered with luminous spots caused by prodigious quantities of
small blubbers that, from the strings which extend from them,
emit a light like the blaze of a candle, while the body continues
perfectly dark.</p>
<p>Friday 3.</p>
<p>The 3rd in the morning we saw a seal. Captain Cook has
remarked seeing seaweed when nearly in the same place. Our
latitude 40 degrees 21 minutes south, longitude 215 degrees east.
Variation of the compass 7 degrees 45 minutes east. Being now
well to the eastward of the Society Islands I steered more to the
northward.</p>
<p>We continued to have the southern oceanic birds accompany us
and a few whales. The people caught albatrosses and fattened them
in the same manner which they had done when off Cape Horn. Some
of these measured near eight feet between the tips of the wings
when spread.</p>
<p>Thursday 9.</p>
<p>On Thursday the 9th we had the misfortune to lose one of our
seamen, James Valentine, who died in the night of an asthmatic
complaint. This poor man had been one of the most robust people
on board until our arrival at Adventure Bay, where he first
complained of some slight indisposition for which he was bled,
and got better. Some time afterwards the arm in which he had been
bled became painful and inflamed: the inflammation increased,
with a hollow cough, and extreme difficulty of breathing, to his
death.</p>
<p>Monday 13.</p>
<p>The 13th in the afternoon we saw two land birds like what are
called sand-larks. Our latitude at this time was 28 degrees 3
minutes south and longitude 223 degrees 26 minutes east.</p>
<p>Tuesday 14.</p>
<p>The next morning we saw a tropic bird and some fish. The winds
were light and variable with calms from this time to the 19th,
when a breeze sprang up from the north-east, which gradually came
round to the eastward and proved to be the tradewind. Our
latitude on the 19th at noon was 24 degrees 13 minutes south,
longitude 222 degrees 17 minutes east. Variation of the compass 5
degrees 19 minutes east.</p>
<p>Saturday 25.</p>
<p>On the 25th at half-past seven in the morning we saw the
Island Maitea, called Osnaburg by Captain Wallis, who first
discovered it. At noon it bore south-west by west one-quarter
west, six miles distant. Our latitude 17 degrees 50 minutes
south, longitude 212 degrees 24 minutes east. Variation five
degrees east. As Captain Wallis and Captain Cook had both passed
near the south side, I ran along the north side, which is
remarkably steep. The island is high and round and not more than
three miles in its greatest extent. The south side, where the
declivity from the hill is more gradual, is the chief place of
residence of the natives; but the north side, from the very
summit down to the sea, is so steep that it can afford no support
to the inhabitants. We steered pretty close in to the northward
of the east end, where we saw but few habitations: a very neat
house on a small eminence, delightfully situated in a grove of
coconut-trees, particularly attracted our notice. About twenty of
the natives followed us along shore, waving and showing large
pieces of cloth; but the surf on the shore was too high to think
of having any communication with them. I observed a great number
of coconut-trees but did not see one plantain-tree. There were
other trees but of what kind we could not distinguish: near the
east end are two remarkable rocks, and a reef runs off to the
eastward about half a league.</p>
<p>The latitude of Maitea is 17 degrees 53 minutes south; and by
our timekeeper its longitude is 1 degree 24 minutes east from
Point Venus. Variation of the compass 5 degrees 36 minutes
east.</p>
<p>We continued our course to the westward, and at six in the
evening saw Otaheite bearing west three-quarters south; the
island Maitea, then in sight, bearing east half south, eight
leagues distant. As there was great probability that we should
remain a considerable time at Otaheite, it could not be expected
that the intercourse of my people with the natives should be of a
very reserved nature: I therefore ordered that every person
should be examined by the surgeon, and had the satisfaction to
learn from his report that they were all perfectly free from any
venereal complaint.</p>
<p>Sunday 26.</p>
<p>On the 26th at four o'clock in the morning, having run
twenty-five leagues from Maitea, we brought to till daylight,
when we saw Point Venus bearing south-west by west, distant about
four leagues. As we drew near a great number of canoes came off
to us. Their first enquiries were if we were tyos, which
signifies friends; and whether we came from Pretanie (their
pronunciation of Britain) or from Lima: they were no sooner
satisfied in this than they crowded on board in vast numbers,
notwithstanding our endeavours to prevent it, as we were working
the ship in; and in less than ten minutes the deck was so full
that I could scarce find my own people. At nine in the forenoon
we were obliged to anchor in the outer part of Matavai Bay, in
thirteen fathoms, being prevented by light variable winds from
placing the ship in a proper berth. In this station the west part
of One-tree hill bore south by east half east one mile
distant.</p>
<p>This passage of fifty-two days from Van Diemen's Land may be
rated as moderate sailing. We passed New Zealand with the spring
equinox and the winds, though strong, were at no time violent. To
the southward of 40 degrees 0 minutes south they were variable;
between the latitudes of 40 and 33 degrees south the wind kept in
the north-west quarter; afterwards till we got into the trade the
winds were variable, mostly from the eastward, but light and
inclinable to calms. The ship was 3 degrees 22 minutes in
longitude to the eastward of the dead reckoning, which the
timekeeper almost invariably proved to be owing to a current
giving us more easting than the log. Our track was as distant
from any course of former ships as I could conveniently make it
and, though we made no new discoveries, except the small cluster
of islands near New Zealand, yet in other parts of the track, as
has been noticed, we met with signs of being in the neighbourhood
of land.</p>
<p>It may not be unworthy of remark that the whole distance which
the ship had run by the log, in direct and contrary courses, from
leaving England to our anchoring at Otaheite, was twenty-seven
thousand and eighty-six miles which, on an average, is at the
rate of a hundred and eight miles each twenty-four hours.</p>
<hr align="center" width="50%">
<p><a name="ch6"></a></p>
<h2>CHAPTER 6.</h2>
<blockquote><b>Account of an English Ship lately sailed from Otaheite.<br>
Death of Omai.<br>
Captain Cook's Picture sent on board.<br>
Otoo visits the Ship.<br>
His Visit returned.<br>
Natives well disposed towards us.<br>
Account of the Cattle left by Captain Cook.<br>
Breadfruit plants promised.<br>
Visit to the Earee Rahie.<br>
Presents made to the Arreoys.</b></blockquote>
<p>1788. October. Sunday 26.</p>
<p>The ship being anchored, our number of visitors continued to
increase; but as yet we saw no person that we could recollect to
have been of much consequence. Some inferior chiefs made me
presents of a few hogs and I made them presents in return. We
were supplied with coconuts in great abundance but breadfruit was
scarce.</p>
<p>Many enquiries were made after Captain Cook, Sir Joseph Banks,
and many of their former friends. They said a ship had been here
from which they had learnt that Captain Cook was dead; but the
circumstances of his death they did not appear to be acquainted
with; and I had given particular directions to my officers and
ship's company that they should not be mentioned. The ship spoken
of, they informed me, stayed at Otaheite one month and had been
gone four months, by some of their accounts; according to others
only three months. The captain they called Tonah. I understood
likewise from them that Lieutenant Watts was in the ship who,
having been here in the Resolution with Captain Cook, was well
known to them. One of my first enquiries, as will naturally be
imagined, was after our friend Omai; and it was a sensible
mortification and disappointment to me to hear that not only
Omai, but both the New Zealand boys who had been left with him,
were dead. Everyone agreed in their information that they died a
natural death. Otoo, who was the chief of Matavai when Captain
Cook was here the last time, was absent at another part of the
island; they told me messengers were sent to inform him of our
arrival, and that he was expected to return soon. There appeared
among the natives in general great goodwill towards us, and they
seemed to be much rejoiced at our arrival. This whole day we
experienced no instance of dishonesty. We were so much crowded
that I could not undertake to remove to a more proper station
without danger of disobliging our visitors by desiring them to
leave the ship: this business was therefore deferred till the
next morning.</p>
<p>Monday 27.</p>
<p>Early in the morning, before the natives began to flock off to
us, we weighed anchor to work farther into the bay, and moored at
about a quarter of a mile distance from the shore; Point Venus
bearing north 16 degrees east; the west part of One-tree hill
south-west by south; and the point of the reef north 37 degrees
west; the ship lying in seven fathoms water.</p>
<p>Several chiefs now came on board and expressed great pleasure
at seeing me. Among these were Otow, the father of Otoo, and
Oreepyah, his brother; also another chief of Matavai called
Poeeno: and to these men I made presents. Two messengers likewise
arrived from Otoo to acquaint me of his being on his way to the
ship; each of whom brought me as a present from Otoo a small pig
and a young plantain-tree as a token of friendship. The ship was
now plentifully supplied with provisions; every person having as
much as he could consume.</p>
<p>As soon as the ship was secured I went on shore with the chief
Poeeno, and accompanied by a multitude of the natives. He
conducted me to the place where we had fixed our tents in 1777
and desired that I would now appropriate the spot to the same
use. We then went across the beach and through a walk
delightfully shaded with breadfruit trees to his own house. Here
we found two women at work staining a piece of cloth red. These I
found were his wife and her sister. They desired me to sit down
on a mat which was spread for the purpose, and with great
kindness offered me refreshments. I received the congratulations
of several strangers who came to us and behaved with great
decorum and attention. The people however thronged about the
house in such numbers that I was much incommoded by the heat,
which being observed they immediately drew back. Among the crowd
I saw a man who had lost his arm just above the elbow; the stump
was well covered and the cure seemed as perfect as could be
expected from the greatest professional skill.</p>
<p>I made enquiries about the cattle that had been left here by
Captain Cook, but the accounts I received were very unfavourable
and so various that for the present I shall forebear speaking of
them. After staying about an hour I got up to take leave, when
the women in a very obliging manner came to me with a mat and a
piece of their finest cloth, which they put on me after the
Otaheite fashion. When I was thus dressed they each of them took
one of my hands, and accompanied me to the waterside, and at
parting promised that they would soon return my visit.</p>
<p>In this walk I had the satisfaction to see that the island had
received some benefit from our former visits. Two shaddocks were
brought to me, a fruit which they had not, till we introduced it.
And among the articles which they brought off to the ship and
offered for sale were capsicums, pumpkins, and two young
goats.</p>
<p>On my return to the ship I found that a small disturbance had
been occasioned by one of the natives making an attempt to steal
a tin pot; which, on being known to Oreepyah, he flew into a
violent rage, and it was with some difficulty that the thief
escaped with his life. He drove all his countrymen out of the
ship; and when he saw me he desired if at any time I found a
thief that I would order him to be tied up and punished with a
severe flogging.</p>
<p>This forenoon a man came on board with Captain Cook's picture
which had been drawn by Mr. Webber in 1777 and left with Otoo. It
was brought to me to be repaired. The frame was broken but the
picture no way damaged except a little in the background. They
called it Toote (which has always been their manner of
pronouncing Captain Cook's name) Earee no Otaheite, chief of
Otaheite. They said Toote had desired Otoo, whenever any English
ship came, to show the picture, and it would be acknowledged as a
token of friendship. The youngest brother of Otoo, named
Whydooah, visited me this afternoon: he appeared stupefied with
drinking ava. At sunset all our male visitors left the ship.</p>
<p>Tuesday 28.</p>
<p>The next morning early I received a message from Otoo to
inform me of his arrival and requesting that I would send a boat
for him; which I immediately did with an officer (Mr. Christian)
to conduct him on board. He came with numerous attendants and
expressed much satisfaction at our meeting. After introducing his
wife to me we joined noses, the customary manner of saluting, and
to perpetuate our friendship he desired we should exchange names.
I was surprised to find that instead of Otoo, the name by which
he formerly went, he was now called Tinah. The name of Otoo, with
the title of Earee Rahie, I was informed had devolved to his
eldest son who was yet a minor, as is the custom of the country.
The name of Tinah's wife was Iddeah: with her was a woman dressed
with a large quantity of cloth in the form of a hoop, which was
taken off and presented to me with a large hog and some
breadfruit. I then took my visitors into the cabin and after a
short time produced my presents in return. The present I made to
Tinah (by which name I shall hereafter call him) consisted of
hatchets, small adzes, files, gimblets, saws, looking-glasses,
red feathers, and two shirts. To Iddeah I gave earrings,
necklaces, and beads; but she expressed a desire also for iron,
and therefore I made the same assortment for her as I had for the
husband. Much conversation took place among them on the value of
the different articles and they appeared extremely satisfied, so
that they determined to spend the day with me and requested I
would show them all over the ship, and particularly the cabin
where I slept. This though I was not fond of doing I indulged
them in; and the consequence was as I had apprehended that they
took a fancy to so many things that they got from me nearly as
much more as I had before given them. Afterwards Tinah desired me
to fire some of the great guns: this I likewise complied with
and, as the shot fell into the sea at a great distance, all the
natives expressed their surprise by loud shouts and
acclamations.</p>
<p>I had a large company at dinner; for besides Tinah and his
wife there was Otow, the father of Tinah, Oreepyah, and Whydooah,
two of his brothers, Poeeno, and several other chiefs. Tinah is a
very large man, much above the common stature, being not less
than six feet four inches in height and proportionably stout: his
age about thirty-five. His wife (Iddeah) I judged to be about
twenty-four years of age: she is likewise much above the common
size of the women at Otaheite and has a very animated and
intelligent countenance. Whydooah, the younger brother of Tinah,
was highly spoken of as a warrior but had the character of being
the greatest drunkard in the country; and indeed to judge from
the withered appearance of his skin he must have used the
pernicious drink called ava to great excess. Tinah was fed by one
of his attendants who sat by him for that purpose, this being a
particular custom among some of the superior chiefs; and I must
do him the justice to say he kept his attendant constantly
employed: there was indeed little reason to complain of want of
appetite in any of my guests. As the women are not allowed to eat
in presence of the men Iddeah dined with some of her companions
about an hour afterwards in private, except that her husband
Tinah favoured them with his company and seemed to have entirely
forgotten that he had already dined.</p>
<p>Provisions were brought off to the ship in the greatest plenty
and, to prevent as much as possible anything which might occasion
disputes, I desired Mr. Peckover, the gunner, to undertake the
management of our traffic with the natives. Some of the hogs
brought today weighed 200 pounds and we purchased several for
salting. Goats were likewise brought off for sale, and I bought a
she-goat and kid for less than would have purchased a small hog.
Our friends here expressed much disappointment that there was no
portrait-painter on board; Tinah in particular, who wished to
have had pictures of his father and family.</p>
<p>An intimacy between the natives and our people was already so
general that there was scarce a man in the ship who had not his
tyo or friend. Tinah continued with me the whole afternoon, in
the course of which he ate four times of roast pork besides his
dinner. When he left the ship he requested I would keep for him
all the presents I had given to him as he had not at Matavai a
place sufficiently safe to secure them from being stolen; I
therefore showed him a locker in my cabin for his use and gave
him a key to it. This is perhaps not so much a proof of his want
of power as of the estimation in which they hold European
commodities and which makes more than the common means of
security requisite to prevent theft.</p>
<p>I had sent Nelson and his assistant to look for plants, and it
was no small pleasure to me to find by their report that
according to appearances the object of my mission would probably
be accomplished with ease. I had given directions to everyone on
board not to make known to the islanders the purpose of our
coming lest it might enhance the value of the breadfruit plants,
or occasion other difficulties. Perhaps so much caution was not
necessary but at all events I wished to reserve to myself the
time and manner of communication. Nelson met with two fine
shaddock-trees which he had planted in 1777: they were full of
fruit but not ripe.</p>
<p>Wednesday 29.</p>
<p>In the morning I returned Tinah's visit for I found he
expected it. He was in a small shed about a quarter of a mile to
the eastward of Matavai point with his wife and three children,
not their own but who they said were relations. In my walk I had
picked up a numerous attendance for everyone I met followed me;
so that I had collected such a crowd that the heat was scarce
bearable, everyone endeavouring to get a look to satisfy their
curiosity: they however carefully avoided pressing against me,
and welcomed me with cheerful countenances and great good
nature.</p>
<p>I made Tinah understand that my visit was particularly to him,
and gave him a second present, equal to the first, which he
received with great pleasure; and to the people of consequence
that were about him I also presented some article or other. There
were great numbers of children and, as I took notice of the
little ones that were in arms and gave them beads, both small and
great, but with much drollery and good humour, endeavoured to
benefit by the occasion. Boys of ten and twelve years old were
caught up in arms and brought to me, which created much laughter;
so that in a short time I got rid of all I had brought on
shore.</p>
<p>In my return I called on Poeeno, and an elderly chief, a
relation of his, called Moannah, the principal men of this
district and with whom I judged it my interest to be on good
terms. I gave them several valuable articles and, as the
situation here was eligible for a garden, I planted melon,
cucumber, and salad-seeds. I told them many other things should
be sown for their use; and they appeared much pleased when they
understood I intended to plant such things as would grow to be
trees and produce fruit. I saw large patches of tobacco growing
without culture and many pumpkin vines. The breadfruit trees and
coconut trees at this time were full of fruit.</p>
<p>I went on board to dinner and Moannah accompanied me. In the
afternoon I returned to Poeeno's with some additional seeds to
improve the little garden I had begun to make in the forenoon.
While I was giving directions I received a message from Tinah
inviting me to come to him at his brother Oreepyah's house, which
was near the beach. At this place I found a great number of
people collected who, on my appearance, immediately made way for
me to sit down by Tinah. The crowd being ordered to draw back, a
piece of cloth about two yards wide and forty-one yards in length
was spread on the ground; and another piece of cloth was brought
by Oreepyah, which he put over my shoulders and round my waist in
the manner the chiefs are clothed. Two large hogs, weighing each
above two hundred pounds, and a quantity of baked breadfruit and
coconuts were then laid before me as a present, and I was desired
to walk from one end of the cloth spread on the ground to the
other, in the course of which Tyo and Ehoah* were repeated with
loud acclamations. This ceremony being ended Tinah desired I
would send the things on board, which completely loaded the boat;
we therefore waited till she came back and then I took them on
board with me; for I knew they expected some return. The present
which I made on this occasion was equal to any that I had made
before; but I discovered that Tinah was not the sole proprietor
of what he had given to me for the present I gave was divided
among those who, I guessed, had contributed to support his
dignity; among whom were Moannah, Poeenah, and Oreepyah; Tinah
however kept the greatest part of what I had given and everyone
seemed satisfied with the proportion he allotted them.</p>
<blockquote>(*Footnote. Tyo and Ehoah are words of the same signification,
i.e. friend.)</blockquote>
<p>The Otaheite breed of hogs seems to be supplanted by the
European. Originally they were of the China sort, short and very
thick-necked; but the superior size of the European have made
them encourage our breed.</p>
<p>Thursday 30.</p>
<p>At break of day Tinah and his wife came again to the ship and,
as their attendants were numerous, I provided a breakfast for
them of broiled and roasted pork, which they preferred to tea.
Our arrival being known all over the island, we had this day a
great number of strangers on board who came from the most remote
parts, and in the forenoon some hooks and thimbles were cut out
from the blocks. This induced me to order all the natives out of
the ship except the chiefs and their attendants. In executing
these orders a daring fellow attacked the sentinel but escaped
among the crowd. Everyone knew the consequence of offending the
sentinel and were exceedingly alarmed at the appearance of anger
I thought necessary to assume.</p>
<p>Among those who visited us today were two chiefs of great
consequence, Marremarre and his son Poohaitaiah Otee, Earees of
the districts of Itteeah and Attahooroo. Otee was fed at dinner
in the same manner as Tinah. It was evident that the attention
which I showed to these chiefs seemed to give uneasiness to
Tinah. At sunset my visitors took leave and were carried on shore
by one of the ship's boats, which has always been regarded as a
mark of distinction, and on that account preferred by them to
going in their own canoes. At their request a race was rowed
between our five-oared cutter and one of their double canoes with
four paddles. Great exertions were used on both sides but the
cutter first reached the shore. In their return to the ship
Oreepyah stopped them till a large piece of cloth that he had
sent for was brought; which he tied to the boat-hook and desired
should be carried off as a trophy of their victory.</p>
<p>Friday 31.</p>
<p>The next morning at sunrise Moannah came on board with a
message from Tinah to acquaint me that he was mattow (afraid to
see me) till he had recovered some things that had been stolen
from the ship and which he had sent after. I knew there was
something wrong, as no canoes came off to us and, on looking
about, we found the buoy of the best bower anchor had been taken
away, I imagine for the sake of some iron hoops that were on it.
That this might not create any coolness I sent a boat to Tinah to
invite him and his friends to come on board; which they
immediately did and were no longer under any apprehensions. I had
made an appointment with Oreepyah for him to go with me to Oparre
this morning; but the accident just mentioned caused him to break
his engagement, he having gone, I was informed, in search of what
had been stolen.</p>
<p>Oparre is the district next to the westward of Matavai. One of
my reasons for going to Oparre was to see if Nelson would be able
to procure plants there; but I gave the credit of my visit to
young Otoo, the son of Tinah, who was the Earee Rahie, and lived
with the rest of Tinah's children at Oparre. I prepared a
magnificent present for this youth, who was represented to me as
the person of the greatest consequence, or rather of the highest
rank, in the island. At noon I left the ship, accompanied by
Tinah, his wife Iddeah, and Poeeno. Moannah was to have been of
the party but he insisted on remaining in the ship to prevent his
countrymen from attempting to steal anything.</p>
<p>After half an hour's sailing we arrived at Oparre. During this
time Tinah gave me a more circumstantial account of the cattle
and sheep that had been left with him: he related that, after
five years from the time of Captain Cook's departure (counting 63
moons) the people of the Island Eimeo joined with those of
Attahooroo, a district of Otaheite, and made a descent on Oparre:
that after some resistance by which many men were killed Tinah
and his people fled to the mountains, leaving all their property
to the mercy of the victorious party who destroyed almost
everything which they found not convenient to take away with
them. Some of the cattle were killed and eaten but the greater
part were taken to Eimeo. The cows he said had produced eight
calves and the ewes ten young ones. The ducks, among which they
classed the geese, had greatly increased; but the turkeys and
peacocks, whatever was the cause, had not bred. It seemed to give
Tinah great pleasure to observe how much I was concerned for the
destruction of so many useful animals; but the cause of his
satisfaction, I found, did not proceed from any expectation that
I should replace them, but from the belief that I would take
vengeance on the people who had deprived him of them; for with
respect to the loss of the cattle he appeared so unconcerned and
indifferent that I was very angry with him. There is however
sufficient excuse for his resentment against the people of Eimeo;
for the large extensive houses which we had seen in this part of
Otaheite in the year 1777 were all destroyed, and at present they
had no other habitations than light sheds which might be taken by
the four corners and removed by four men: and of the many large
canoes which they then had not more than three remained. Tinah,
understanding from my conversation that I intended visiting some
of the other islands in this neighbourhood, very earnestly
desired I would not think of leaving Matavai. "Here," said he,
"you shall be supplied plentifully with everything you want. All
here are your friends and friends of King George: if you go to
the other islands you will have everything stolen from you." I
replied that, on account of their goodwill and from a desire to
serve him and his country, King George had sent out those
valuable presents to him; "and will not you, Tinah, send
something to King George in return?" "Yes," he said, "I will send
him anything I have;" and then began to enumerate the different
articles in his power, among which he mentioned the breadfruit.
This was the exact point to which I wished to bring the
conversation and, seizing an opportunity which had every
appearance of being undesigned and accidental, I told him the
breadfruit trees were what King George would like; upon which he
promised me a great many should be put on board, and seemed much
delighted to find it so easily in his power to send anything that
would be well received by King George.</p>
<p>On landing at Oparre an immense crowd of natives as usual
immediately thronged about us. I enquired for Oreepyah, whom I
expected to have met me here, but he was not yet returned from
his search after the thieves; we therefore went under a shed of
his to wait for him, and in about a quarter of an hour he joined
us, bringing with him an iron scraper and one of the hoops of the
buoy. I thanked him for the trouble which he had taken, and
assured him that I was perfectly satisfied, for he still seemed
apprehensive of my displeasure.</p>
<p>We took leave for a short time of Oreepyah and I proceeded
with Tinah to make my visit to the young Otoo, the Earee Rahie.
When we had walked about five minutes Tinah stopped and informed
me that no person could be permitted to see his son, who was
covered above the shoulders. He then took off his upper garments
and requested I would do the same. I replied that I had no
objection to go as I would to my own king, who was the greatest
in all the world and, pulling off my hat, he threw a piece of
cloth round my shoulders and we went on. About a quarter of a
mile farther towards the hills, through a delightful shade of
breadfruit trees, we stopped at the side of a small serpentine
river: here I was in view of a house on the other side at about
fifty yards distance. From this house the young king was brought
out on a man's shoulders, clothed in a piece of fine white cloth,
and I was desired by Tinah to salute him by the name of Too Earee
Rahie. The present which I had prepared was divided into three
parts, and two other children made their appearance in the same
manner. The first present I gave to a messenger who attended for
that purpose; and I was instructed by Tinah to say that it was
for the Earee Rahie; that I was his friend; that I hated thieves;
and that I came from Britannia. The second present was sent in
the same manner, with a similar message, to one of the other
children and likewise the third.</p>
<p>As I could not see the Earee Rahie distinctly I desired to be
permitted to go over the river to him; but this, it seems, could
not be complied with: therefore after seeing the presents
delivered I returned with Tinah towards Oreepyah's house. I was
informed that Tinah had four children by his wife Iddeah. Otoo,
or Too, the Earee Rahie, appeared to be about six years old: the
second is a girl named Terrenah Oroah: the third a boy,
Terreetappanooai; and a fourth, an infant girl, whom I did not
see, named Tahamydooah.</p>
<p>When we came to the place where we had first stopped Tinah
took the cloth from my shoulders and desired me to put my hat on;
I expressed a desire to see more of the place and he took me back
by a different way. On passing a trunk of a tree, rudely carved,
I was desired again to pull my hat off, and all uncovered their
shoulders. This I discovered to be nothing more than the boundary
of the king's land; on which whoever set their feet uncovered
themselves out of respect.</p>
<p>We stopped at a house belonging to Tinah where I was treated
with a concert of one drum and three flutes with singing by four
men. I made some presents to the performers and we removed to
Oreepyah's house where, after paying my compliments to him, which
I found was expected, Tinah made me a present of a large hog and
some coconuts. He then introduced an uncle of his called
Mowworoah, a very old man much tattooed and almost blind. To this
chief I made a present and soon after I embarked with Tinah,
Oreepyah, their wives, and Poeeno. A vast number of people were
collected on the beach to see us depart and as soon as the boat
had put off Tinah desired me to fire my pocket pistol, the
poopooe ete ete, as he called it: the report seemed to electrify
the whole crowd but, finding no harm done, they gave great shouts
of approbation.</p>
<p>Nelson, who accompanied me in this expedition, had but little
opportunity to search after plants, the natives having crowded so
much about him: he saw enough however to assure him that they
were to be procured here as plentifully as at Matavai.</p>
<p>In our passage to the ship, which we rowed in one hour,
nothing but Britannie was enquired after and of the number of
ships and guns. When I told them we had ships of 100 guns they
could not believe it till I drew one on paper: they then asked me
if it was not as big as Tarrah, which is a high projecting
headland halfway between Matavai and Oparre, called by us
One-tree Hill. Tinah much wished that one of these large ships
should be sent to Otaheite and that myself should come in her,
and bring him a number of things that he wanted; among which he
particularly desired beds and high-backed elbow chairs might not
be forgotten: a request perfectly according with the indolent
character of Tinah.</p>
<p>November. Saturday 1.</p>
<p>As we had occasion to fix a tent on Point Venus this morning
we moved the ship nearer to it and moored again in six fathoms,
the point bearing north-north-east.</p>
<p>Tinah and several other chiefs dined on board with me. After
dinner I went on shore with Tinah and made a visit to his father
Otow. I likewise went to the garden which I had made near
Poeeno's house and found everything had been taken care of. After
this I was invited to an entertainment called Heiva, which Tinah
had ordered and which consisted of singing and dancing by three
men and a young girl. When this performance was finished I
returned to the ship.</p>
<p>Sunday 2.</p>
<p>At daylight I sent Mr. Christian with a party to erect our
tent and soon after followed myself with Tinah, Moannah, and
Poeeno. With their consent I fixed a boundary, within which the
natives were not to enter without leave and the chiefs cautioned
them against it.</p>
<p>The principal use of the tents on shore was for a lodgment for
the plants; and I had now, instead of appearing to receive a
favour, brought the chiefs to believe that I was doing them a
kindness in carrying the plants as a present from them to the
Earee Rahie no Britanee. The party at the tent consisted of nine
persons, including Nelson and his assistant.</p>
<p>Tinah dined with me on board and was today my only visitor:
nevertheless the ceremony of being fed he so scrupulously
observed that, even after all the attendants were sent away and
we were left by ourselves, I was obliged to lift the wine to his
mouth. The wives of the Earees are sometimes subject to this
restriction after the birth of a child but are released after a
certain time on performing a ceremony called Oammo.</p>
<p>After dinner Tinah invited me to accompany him with a present
of provisions to a party of the Arreoys, a society described in
the accounts of the former voyages: in this ceremony he made me
the principal person. Our way to the place where the offering was
to be made was by the side of a river along the banks of which I
had always walked before this time; but on the present occasion a
canoe was provided for me and dragged by eight men. On arriving
at the landing-place I saw a large quantity of breadfruit with
some hogs ready dressed and a quantity of cloth. At about forty
yards distant sat a man who, I was informed, was a principal
Arreoy. A lane being made by the crowd he was addressed by one of
Tinah's people, standing on the canoe, in a speech composed of
short sentences which lasted about a quarter of an hour. During
this a piece of cloth was produced, one end of which I was
desired to hold, and five men, one with a sucking pig and the
others having each a basket of breadfruit, prepared to follow me.
In this order we advanced to the Arreoy and laid the whole down
before him. I then spoke several sentences dictated to me by
Tinah, the meaning of which I did not understand and, my
pronunciation not being very exact, caused a great deal of mirth.
This speech being finished I was shown another Arreoy, who had
come from Ulietea, and to him likewise I was required to deliver
an oration. Tinah understanding from me that I had children in my
own country he desired me to make one more offering on their
account. There still remained three baskets of breadfruit, a
small pig, and another piece of cloth: with these, assisted as
before, I made the offering in favour of my children to the man
whom I had first addressed. He made no reply to all my fine
speeches but sat with great gravity and received everything as a
matter of right and not of courtesy.</p>
<p>All that I could make out of this strange ceremony was that
the Arreoys are highly respected and that the society is chiefly
composed of men distinguished by their valour or some other
merit, and that great trust and confidence is reposed in them;
but I could not comprehend what this had to do with my children
or why it should be imagined that an offering made on their
account to a society of men who destroy all their children should
be propitious. I learnt from Tinah, in talking about his
children, that his first-born child was killed as soon as it came
into the world, he being then an Arreoy; but before his second
child was born he quitted the society. The Arreoys are allowed
great latitude in their amours except in times of danger. Then as
they are almost all fighting men (tata toa) they are restricted
that they may not weaken or enervate themselves.</p>
<p>These ceremonies being ended I returned to the ship.</p>
<p>Such of the natives as I conversed with about the institution
of so extraordinary a society as the Arreoy asserted that it was
necessary to prevent an overpopulation. Worrow worrow no te
mydidde, worrow worrow te tata. We have too many children and too
many men was their constant excuse. Yet it does not appear that
they are apprehensive of too great an increase of the lower class
of people, none of them being ever admitted into the Arreoy
society. The most remarkable instance related to me of the
barbarity of this institution was of Teppahoo, the Earee of the
district of Tettaha, and his wife, Tetteehowdeeah, who is sister
to Otow and considered as a person of the first consequence. I
was told that they have had eight children, every one of which
was destroyed as soon as born. That any human beings were ever so
devoid of natural affection as not to wish to preserve alive one
of so many children is not credible. It is more reasonable to
conclude that the death of these infants was not an act of choice
in the parents; but that they were sacrificed in compliance with
some barbarous superstition with which we are unacquainted. What
strengthens this conjecture is that they have adopted a nephew as
their heir, of whom they are excessively fond.</p>
<p>In countries so limited as the islands in the South Seas, the
natives of which, before they were discovered by European
navigators, probably had not an idea of the existence of other
lands, it is not unnatural that an increasing population should
occasion apprehensions of universal distress. Orders of celibacy
which have proved so prejudicial in other countries might perhaps
in this have been beneficial; so far at least as to have answered
their purpose by means not criminal. The number of inhabitants at
Otaheite have been estimated at above one hundred thousand. The
island however is not cultivated to the greatest advantage: yet
were they continually to improve in husbandry their improvement
could not for a length of time keep pace with an unlimited
population.</p>
<p>An idea here presents itself which, however fanciful it may
appear at first sight, seems to merit some attention: While we
see among these islands so great a waste of the human species
that numbers are born only to die, and at the same time a large
continent so near to them as New Holland, in which there is so
great a waste of land uncultivated and almost destitute of
inhabitants, it naturally occurs how greatly the two countries
might be made to benefit each other, and gives occasion to regret
that the islanders are not instructed in the means of emigrating
to New Holland, which seems as if designed by nature to serve as
an asylum for the superflux of inhabitants in the islands. Such a
plan of emigration, if rendered practicable to them, might not
only be the means of abolishing the horrid custom of destroying
children as it would remove the plea of necessity but might lead
to other important purposes. A great continent would be converted
from a desert to a populous country; a number of our
fellow-creatures would be saved; the inhabitants of the islands
would become more civilised; and it is not improbable but that
our colonies in New Holland would derive so much benefit as to
more than repay any trouble of expense that might be incurred in
endeavouring to promote so humane a plan.</p>
<p>The latter however is a remote consideration for the
intertropical parts of New Holland are those most suited to the
habits and manner of living of the islanders; and likewise the
soil and climate are the best adapted to their modes of
agriculture. Man placed by his Creator in the warm climates
perhaps would never emigrate into the colder unless under the
tyrannous influence of necessity; and ages might elapse before
the new inhabitants would spread to our settlers though they are
but barely within the limits of frost, that great cause of
nine-tenths of the necessities of Europeans. Nevertheless besides
forwarding the purposes of humanity and general convenience in
bringing a people without land to a land without people the
benefit of a mutual intercourse with a neighbouring and friendly
colony would in itself be no inconsiderable advantage.</p>
<p>Among people so free from ostentation as the Otaheiteans, and
whose manners are so simple and natural, the strictness with
which the punctilios of rank are observed is surprising. I know
not if any action, however meritorious, can elevate a man above
the class in which he was born unless he were to acquire
sufficient power to confer dignity on himself. If any woman of
the inferior classes has a child by an Earee it is not suffered
to live. Perhaps the offspring of Teppahoo and Tetteehowdeeah
were destined to satisfy some cruel adjustment of rank and
precedency.</p>
<hr align="center" width="50%">
<p><a name="ch7"></a></p>
<h2>CHAPTER 7.</h2>
<blockquote><b>A theft committed.<br>
Deception of the painted Head.<br>
Conversation with a Priest.<br>
A Wrestling Match.<br>
Reports of the Natives concerning other Islands.<br>
Some Account of Omai.</b></blockquote>
<p>1788. November. Monday 3.</p>
<p>The trade for provisions I directed to be carried on at the
tent by Mr. Peckover the gunner. Moannah likewise resided there
as a guard over his countrymen; but though it appeared to be the
wish of all the chiefs that we should remain unmolested it was
not possible entirely to prevent them from pilfering.</p>
<p>My table at dinner was generally crowded. Tinah, Oreepyah,
Poeeno, and Moannah, were my regular guests and I was seldom
without some chiefs from other districts. Almost every individual
of any consequence has several names which makes it frequently
perplexing when the same person is spoken of to know who is
meant. Every chief has perhaps a dozen or more names in the
course of thirty years; so that the person who has been spoken of
by one visitor will not perhaps be known to another unless other
circumstances lead to a discovery. The father of Tinah, at this
time called Otow, was known in 1769 by the name of Whappai.</p>
<p>I showed Tinah the preparations I was making to take on board
the breadfruit plants which pleased him exceedingly, but he did
not forget to remind me that when the next ship came out he hoped
King George would send him large axes, files, saws, cloth of all
kinds, hats, chairs, and bedsteads, with arms, ammunition, and in
short everything he could think of mentioning.</p>
<p>This afternoon the gudgeon of the rudder belonging to the
large cutter was drawn out and stolen without being perceived by
the man that was stationed to take care of her. Several petty
thefts having been committed by the natives, mostly owing to the
negligence of our own people and, as these kind of accidents
generally created alarm and had a tendency to interrupt the good
terms on which we were with the chiefs, I thought it would have a
good effect to punish the boat-keeper in their presence, many of
them happening to be then on board; and accordingly I ordered him
a dozen lashes. Tinah with several of the chiefs attended the
punishment and interceded very earnestly to get it mitigated: the
women showed great sympathy and that degree of feeling which
characterises the amiable part of their sex.</p>
<p>The natives brought off today two different kinds of roots
that grow like yams: one they call Ettee, which is a sweet root,
common also to the Friendly Islands, and may be eaten as a
sweetmeat: the other they call Appay, a root like the Tyah or
Eddie in the West Indies. A fruit called Ayyah, which is the
jambo of Batavia, was likewise brought off to us: they are as
large as middle-sized apples, very juicy and refreshing, and may
be eaten in large quantities. Also some Avees, which are the real
Otaheite apple; but they were not yet in season. These are a
delicious high-flavoured fruit and before they are ripe answer
the culinary purposes of our apples.</p>
<p>Tuesday 4.</p>
<p>A chief called Tootaha, who came from the island Ulietea, was
introduced to me today by Tinah as one of his particular friends.
I was told that he was a priest and a person of great knowledge.
I desired Tinah to take what he thought proper as a present for
him; and I must do Tinah the justice to say he was more sparing
than I should have been. I likewise received a visit today from
Oedidee, the man who had been at sea with Captain Cook in 1773
and 1774, as related in the account of that voyage. He still
retained some of the English words which he had learnt in that
expedition.</p>
<p>Wednesday 5.</p>
<p>The weather variable with lightning and frequent showers of
rain. Wind east-north-east.</p>
<p>This was the first day of our beginning to take up plants: we
had much pleasure in collecting them for the natives offered
their assistance and perfectly understood the method of taking
them up and pruning them.</p>
<p>The crowd of natives was not so great as hitherto it had been:
the curiosity of strangers was satisfied and, as the weather
began to be unsettled and rainy, they had almost all returned to
their homes so that only the people of Matavai and Oparre
remained with us, except a few chiefs from other islands: our
supplies however were abundant and what I considered as no small
addition to our comforts, we ceased to be incommoded when on
shore by the natives following us, and could take our walks
almost unnoticed. In any house that we wished to enter we always
experienced a kind reception and without officiousness. The
Otaheiteans have the most perfect easiness of manners, equally
free from forwardness and formality. When they offer refreshments
if they are not accepted they do not think of offering them the
second time; for they have not the least idea of that ceremonious
kind of refusal which expects a second invitation. In like manner
at taking leave we were never troubled with solicitations to
prolong our visit, but went without ceremony except making use of
a farewell expression at parting. Another advantage, seldom found
in warm countries, was, in this part of Otaheite being free from
mosquitoes, though at particular times of the year the
inhabitants are pestered with great numbers of flies.</p>
<p>Moannah continued our constant friend at the tent and with
Tinah and all his friends dined with me every day.</p>
<p>The ship's barber had brought with him from London a painted
head such as the hair-dressers have in their shops to show the
different fashions of dressing hair; and it being made with
regular features and well-coloured, I desired him to dress it,
which he did with much neatness, and with a stick and a quantity
of cloth he formed a body. It was then reported to the natives
that we had an Englishwoman on board and the quarter-deck was
cleared of the crowd that she might make her appearance. Being
handed up the ladder and carried to the after-part of the deck
there was a general shout of "Huaheine no Brittane myty."
Huaheine signifies woman and myty good. Many of them thought it
was living and asked if it was my wife. One old woman ran with
presents of cloth and breadfruit and laid them at her feet; at
last they found out the cheat; but continued all delighted with
it, except the old lady who felt herself mortified and took back
her presents for which she was laughed at exceedingly. Tinah and
all the chiefs enjoyed the joke and, after making many enquiries
about the British women, they strictly enjoined me when I came
again to bring a ship full of them.</p>
<p>Some very fine sugarcane was brought to me; each of the pieces
was six inches round. I had before told Tinah that our sugar was
made of it and he was very desirous to discover the means; for
they were so fond of our loaf sugar that a present to any chief
would have been incomplete without a piece of it. Another article
in great estimation and likewise expected to make part of a
present was scissors, which they made use of to keep their beards
in order.</p>
<p>By this time Nelson had, with assistance from the ship,
completed a large garden near the tents in which were sown seeds
of different kinds that we had collected at the Cape of Good
Hope. I likewise distributed fruit-stones and almonds for
planting among the chiefs, who I hope will endeavour to make them
succeed and, as they are very fond of sweet-smelling flowers with
which the women delight to ornament themselves, I gave them some
rose-seed.</p>
<p>Thursday 6.</p>
<p>We had very variable weather, much rain, and some westerly
winds; so that a considerable swell ran into the bay and a number
of spotted white and black porpoises made their appearance.</p>
<p>I had the mortification to see that our garden-ground had been
much trod over; and what was worse the chiefs appeared but little
concerned at it. To this kind of carelessness and indifference I
attribute the miscarriage of many of the plants left here by
Captain Cook. I had now in a flourishing state two orange plants,
some vines, a fig-tree, and two pineapple plants, which I gave to
Poeeno whose residence is a place favourable for their
growth.</p>
<p>We got on successfully with our plants, having a hundred
potted at the tent and in a fair way of doing well. The cabin
also was completed and ready to receive them on board.</p>
<p>I have before remarked that my friend Tinah was rather of a
selfish disposition and this afternoon he showed a stronger
instance of it than I was witness to at any time before or after.
His brother Oreepyah sent on board to me a present of a large hog
and a quantity of breadfruit: but these kind of presents are much
more expensive than purchasing at the market. Soon after Oreepyah
himself came on board. Tinah was with me at the time and
whispered me to tell Oreepyah not to bring any more hogs or fruit
and to take those back which he had sent. This advice as may be
supposed did not produce the effect intended. Oreepyah appears to
be a man of great spirit, and is highly respected by his
countrymen. Among other visitors today was one of the men who had
been to Lima in 1776.</p>
<p>Saturday 8.</p>
<p>Our plants had now increased to 252: as they were all kept on
shore at the tent I augmented the guard there, though from the
general conduct of the natives there did not appear the least
occasion for so much caution.</p>
<p>While I was at dinner Tinah desired I would permit a man to
come down into the cabin whom he called his Taowah or priest; for
I was obliged to keep a sentinel at the hatchway to prevent being
incommoded at my meals with too much company; a restriction which
pleased the chiefs who always asked leave for any particular
person to be admitted of whom they wished me to take notice. The
company of the priest brought on a religious conversation. He
said their great God was called Oro; and that they had many
others of less consequence. He asked me if I had a God? if he had
a son? and who was his wife? I told them he had a son but no
wife. Who was his father and mother? was the next question. I
said he never had father or mother; at this they laughed
exceedingly. You have a God then who never had a father or mother
and has a child without a wife! Many other questions were asked
which my little knowledge of the language did not enable me to
answer.</p>
<p>The weather was now fine again and a great number of people
were come from other parts of the island. Tinah informed me that
there was to be a heiva and a wrestling-match on shore, and that
the performers waited for our attendance; we therefore set off
with several of our friends and, about a quarter of a mile from
the tents, we found a great concourse of people formed into a
ring. As soon as we were seated a dancing heiva began, which was
performed by two girls and four men: this lasted half an hour and
consisted of wanton gestures and motions such as have been
described in the account of former voyages. When the dance ended
Tinah ordered a long piece of cloth to be brought; his wife
Iddeah and myself were desired to hold the two first corners and,
the remaining part being supported by many others, we carried it
to the performers and gave it them. Several other chiefs made a
like present or payment. The performers were strollers that
travelled about the country as in Europe.</p>
<p>After this the wrestling began and the place soon became a
scene of riot and confusion. A party of the Arreoys also began to
exercise a privilege, which it seems they are allowed, of taking
from the women such of their clothes as they thought worth it; so
that some of them were left little better than naked. One young
woman who was attacked opposed them with all her strength and
held fast her cloth, though they almost dragged her along the
ground. Observing that I took notice of her she held out her hand
and begged my assistance; and at my request she escaped being
pillaged.</p>
<p>Soon after a ring was again made but the wrestlers were so
numerous within it that it was impossible to restore order. In
the challenges they lay one hand upon their breast and, on the
bending of the arm at the elbow, with the other hand they strike
a very smart blow which, as the hand is kept hollow, creates a
sound that may be heard at a considerable distance; and this they
do so frequently and with such force that the flesh becomes
exceedingly bruised and, the skin breaking, bleeds considerably.
At this time the sound from so many resembled that of a number of
people in a wood felling trees. This is the general challenge;
but when any two combatants agree to a trial they present their
hands forward, joining them only by the extremities of the
fingers. They begin by watching to take an advantage; at length
they close, seize each other by the hair and are most commonly
parted before either receives a fall. Only one couple performed
anything like the part of good wrestlers; and as they were an
equal match this conflict lasted longer than any of the others;
but they also were parted.</p>
<p>Iddeah was the general umpire and she managed with so much
address as to prevent any quarrelling, and there was no murmuring
at her decisions. As her person was large she was very
conspicuous in the circle. Tinah took no part in the management.
Upon the whole this performance gave me a better opinion of their
strength than of their skill or dexterity.</p>
<p>Tuesday 11.</p>
<p>For some time past Tinah had talked of going to the island of
Tethuroa which lies eight or ten leagues north from Otaheite to
fetch his mother; but I found I had only half understood him; for
this morning he enquired when we were to sail there in the ship:
however he seemed to feel no great disappointment at my not
complying with his wish. Tethuroa he informed me is the property
of his family. He likewise spoke to me about an island called
Rooopow, the situation of which he described to be to the
eastward of Otaheite four or five days sail, and that there were
large animals upon it with eight legs. The truth of this account
he very strenuously insisted upon and wished me to go thither
with him. I was at a loss to know whether or not Tinah himself
gave credit to this whimsical and fabulous account; for though
they have credulity sufficient to believe anything, however
improbable, they are at the same time so much addicted to that
species of wit which we call humbug that it is frequently
difficult to discover whether they are in jest or earnest. Their
ideas of geography are very simple: they believe the world to be
a fixed plane of great extent; and that the sun, moon, and stars
are all in motion round it. I have been frequently asked by them
if I have not been as far as the sun and moon; for they think we
are such great travellers that scarce any undertaking is beyond
our ability.</p>
<p>Another island called Tappuhoi, situated likewise to the
eastward, was described to me by Tinah, the inhabitants of which
were said to be all warriors, and that the people of Otaheite did
not dare to go there. He told me that very lately a canoe from
Tappuhoi was at the island Maitea; that as soon as they landed
they began to fight with the people of Maitea who killed them all
except a young lad and a woman who have since been at Otaheite. I
saw the boy but could get no information from him. It is most
probable that this unfortunate visit of the canoe from Tappuhoi
was not designed but occasioned by adverse winds which forced
them so far from their own island, and that the people of Maitea
began the attack, taking advantage of their superior numbers, on
account of some former quarrel.</p>
<p>Thursday 13.</p>
<p>I had a large company to dine with me today. Some of my
constant visitors had observed that we always drank His Majesty's
health as soon as the cloth was removed; but they were by this
time become so fond of wine that they would frequently remind me
of the health in the middle of dinner by calling out King George
Earee no Brittannee; and would banter me if the glass was not
filled to the brim. Nothing could exceed the mirth and jollity of
these people when they met on board.</p>
<p>I was assured by Oediddee and several others that the vines
planted at the island Huaheine by Captain Cook had succeeded and
bore fruit; and that some of the other plants, both at Huaheine
and at Oaitepeha, a district on the south-east part of Otaheite,
had been preserved and were in a thriving state. I was likewise
informed that there was a bull and a cow alive at Otaheite but on
different parts of the island, the former at a place called
Itteah, the latter at the district of Tettaha. All the rest were
taken away or destroyed by the people of Eimeo. As Tettaha was at
no great distance I determined to go thither myself the first
opportunity, and make enquiries in hopes that the breed might
still be preserved.</p>
<p>I had much discourse with my guests about Omai: they confirmed
to me that he died about thirty months after Captain Cook left
the islands. Soon after Captain Cook's departure from Huaheine
there were some disputes between the people of that island and
those of Ulietea in which also the natives of Bolabola took a
part. Omai, who was become of consequence from the possessing
three or four muskets and some ammunition, was consulted on the
occasion. Such was his opinion and assurances of success that a
war was determined on and took place immediately. Victory soon
followed through the means of those few arms and many of the
Ulietea and Bolabola men were killed. In this contest their
flints proved bad, or probably the locks of the muskets had got
out of order: this they remedied by a lighted stick, one man
presenting the musket and another with the burnt stick setting
fire to the priming; without which contrivance their arms would
have proved useless. This expedition it seems consumed all their
ammunition. Peace was soon after established, but I did not
understand that Omai had increased his possessions or his rank.
Nevertheless I have reason to conclude that he was in some degree
of favour with his countrymen from the general good character
which they give of him. It appears that he always remembered
England with kindness; for his accounts to his countrymen have
been such as to give them not only a great idea of our power and
consequence but of our friendship and goodwill towards him.</p>
<p>Tyvarooah, the eldest of the New Zealand boys that were left
with him, died a short time after Omai: about Coah, the youngest,
I had always doubtful accounts till I came to Huaheine, where I
learnt that he likewise was dead.</p>
<hr align="center" width="50%">
<p><a name="ch8"></a></p>
<h2>CHAPTER 8.</h2>
<blockquote><b>Expedition to Tettaba after a Heifer.<br>
Extraordinary domestic Arrangements.<br>
Tinah's Mother visits the Ship.<br>
A Sheep brought from Ulietea.<br>
Heavy Storm.<br>
Death of the Surgeon.<br>
Taowne and Toahroah Harbours examined.</b></blockquote>
<p>1788. November.</p>
<p>After dinner I went on shore and, while I was at the tents,
from having exposed myself too much in the sun, I was taken ill
and continued in much pain for near an hour. This was soon known
among the natives and I was exceedingly surprised to see Tinah
and all the principal people, both men and women, collecting
round me and offering their assistance. For this short illness I
was made ample amends by the pleasure I received from the
attention and appearance of affection in these kind people.</p>
<p>Friday 14.</p>
<p>This morning I had numberless enquiries after my health. The
weather being fine I invited Tinah, Oreepyah, and Poeeno, to
accompany me to Tettaha in order to enquire after the cow; and
soon after sunrise we set off in the launch. Tettaha is nearly
four leagues from Point Venus. On our arrival Tinah sent a man to
give notice of our visit. The chief of the district, whose name
was Teppahoo, did not appear, but sent a messenger to demand if I
came only to see the cow or to take it away with me. In answer to
this I sent assurances that I only desired to see it, and the
chiefs who were with me spoke to the same effect. I was then
desired to proceed in the boat farther along shore to the
westward. In our way Tinah made me stop among some fishing canoes
to purchase fish for him, which he eat raw with salt water for
sauce. When we arrived at the landing-place a great number of
people had collected, and soon after Teppahoo arrived. Oreepyah
and I went with him about a quarter of a mile, when I was shown
one of the most beautiful heifers I ever saw. I asked if they had
any more but they all said there was no other than a bull at
Itteah, as before mentioned. I could not refrain from expressing
my displeasure at the destruction and the foolish separation of
these fine animals. I had shared with Captain Cook in the trouble
of this business and had been equally anxious for the
success.</p>
<p>The district of Tettaha is not so luxuriant and fruitful as
the country about Matavai. As I saw nothing of consequence to
detain me I made a present to Teppahoo and, after inviting him to
visit me on board the ship, which he promised to do, I took
leave. Tinah had remained all this time in the boat. I observed
that no respect was shown to him at this place, nor was he able
to procure a coconut or a breadfruit otherwise than by purchasing
it. The heifer being here is a proof of this district not having
been friendly to the people of Matavai and Oparre.</p>
<p>In our way back, having to row against the wind, we stopped to
refresh at Oparre, and it was eight o'clock by the time we
arrived at the ship. I kept my fellow travellers on board to
supper and they did not fail to remind me of the king's
health.</p>
<p>Monday 17.</p>
<p>Our collection of breadfruit plants at the tents continued
increasing. This morning I sent twelve on board, in pots, to
discover where they would thrive the best, the air being more
temperate on board the ship than on shore. While I was absent
from the ship Teppahoo had been on board and left a hog as a
present for me.</p>
<p>After dinner today Tinah, who was my constant visitor, left
the table sooner than usual. When he was gone Oreepyah, his
brother, and Oedidde, told me a piece of scandal, which had been
before hinted to me but which till now I had not heard of with
certainty: this was that Iddeah, Tinah's wife, kept a gallant,
who was a towtow, or servant, and the very person who always fed
Tinah at dinner: and this was so far from being without Tinah's
knowledge or consent that they said it was by his desire. They
added many other circumstances and, as I appeared to doubt, they
took several opportunities in the course of the day of mentioning
it to other people, who all declared it was true.</p>
<p>Tuesday 18.</p>
<p>This afternoon I saw Teppahoo and invited him on board: before
we parted I bargained with him for the heifer which he promised
to bring in five days. My intention was that if I got the heifer
I would endeavour to purchase the bull at Itteah: but if that
could not be done then I could send the heifer as a present to
the possessor of the bull, which might equally well answer my
purpose.</p>
<p>It has been mentioned that Tinah had a place in my cabin to
keep those things which I gave him as being more secure on board
than on shore. I had remarked lately that his hoard seemed to
diminish the more I endeavoured to increase it: at length I
discovered that Iddeah kept another hoard in the master's cabin,
which she regularly enriched from her husband's whenever I made
him a present, apprehending that I should cease giving when I saw
Tinah's locker full. At his request I set the carpenters to work
to make him a chest large enough for himself and wife to sleep
on. Captain Cook had formerly given him such a chest but it had
been taken from him by the Eimeo people.</p>
<p>Friday 21.</p>
<p>This forenoon I received a message from Teppahoo to acquaint
me the heifer was brought to Matavai. I immediately went on shore
and found that he had been as good as his word. The purchase
money was paid, which consisted of a shirt, a hatchet, a spike
nail, a knife, a pair of scissors, a gimlet, and file; to which
was added a small quantity of loaf-sugar. Teppahoo appeared well
pleased with his bargain; and I sent the heifer to Poeeno's
residence near which was plenty of grass.</p>
<p>In the afternoon I was invited to a heiva, the most
extraordinary part of which was an oration, with some ceremonies
in compliment to us. Twelve men were divided into four ranks,
with two women in the front; behind them all stood a priest who
made a speech which lasted ten minutes and which was listened to
with some attention. During this the picture of Captain Cook,
which had been brought for that purpose, was placed by my side.
When the priest left off speaking a piece of white cloth was
wrapped round the picture and another piece round me. The priest
then spoke again for a short time, and an old man placed a piece
of plaited coconut leaf at my feet; the same was done to Tinah,
and one piece was put under the picture. After this the dancing
began, which was in the same style that we had already seen.</p>
<p>The head of the ship was the figure of a woman, and not ill
carved. As we were painting the ship's upper works I directed
this figure to be painted in colours, with which the islanders
were much pleased. Not only the men but the women desired me to
bring English women when I came again. Today Oedidde, thinking I
was not convinced of the truth of what he had told me about
Iddeah, mentioned the affair to the lady herself in my hearing,
at which she laughed, but said he did ill to tell me of it.
However it was evident she was not much offended for they were
both very much diverted in discoursing upon the subject.</p>
<p>I find it is not at all uncommon for brothers to have
connection with the wives of each other, particularly elder
brothers with the wives of their younger brothers, which is
generally allowed and no offence taken: but if any person not
belonging to the family endeavours at the same intimacy it is
resented as an injury. Inclination seems to be the only binding
law of marriage at Otaheite.</p>
<p>As I purposed to get instruments on shore at Point Venus to
make observations I desired Tinah to order a house to be brought
there for me, which was done and fixed in half an hour, being
only a light shed supported by posts.</p>
<p>Monday 24.</p>
<p>Today I bought a turtle that was caught on the reefs. As Tinah
was going to leave me for a few days I had it dressed for his
dinner. He told me that his mother, Oberreeroah, was arrived from
the island Tethuroa, and begged that I would send for her in the
morning and take care of her till he returned, which I willingly
promised.</p>
<p>Tuesday 25.</p>
<p>This morning I sent a boat to Oparre, which returned in the
afternoon with Oberreeroah and two women, her servants. As she
was old and corpulent it was with difficulty that we helped her
up the ship's side. As soon as she was in the ship she sat down
on the gangway and, clasping my knees in her arms, expressed her
pleasure at seeing me by a flood of tears. Her servants then
produced three pieces of cloth which, with a large hog, some
breadfruit, plantains, and coconuts, she had brought as a
present. As she was fatigued by her journey she wished to remain
on board all night, and I directed accommodations to be prepared,
which was done with little trouble as nothing more was necessary
than a mat and some cloth spread on the deck. She had with her a
favourite cat, bred from one that had been given her by Captain
Cook. She told me all the misfortunes that had befallen her son
and friends since Captain Cook left Otaheite. All the accounts
agree in some of the cattle being now alive at the island Eimeo:
in the number they differ but that there were eight is the least
account.</p>
<p>Wednesday 26.</p>
<p>In the morning, Oberreeroah being desirous to go on shore, I
made her a present of several things, which she did not care to
take with her then, but requested that I would keep them safe for
her. Only Moannah and Poeeno dined with me today. They told me
that Tinah and his brother Oreepyah were not on good terms
together, and it was imagined that they would fight as soon as
the ship was gone. I had observed a coolness between them, and
had at times endeavoured to make them more cordial, but with very
little effect. Their quarrel has arisen from a disagreement
between their wives.</p>
<p>In the afternoon a canoe from Ulietea arrived in which was an
Earee or chief of that island, who is a nephew to Oberreeroah. He
brought a sheep with him: the poor animal was infected with the
mange and in very poor condition. The climate had not as far as I
could judge altered the quality of the wool, with which he was
well covered except a part about the shoulders. I imagine this
animal to be the English ewe left by Captain Cook. The owner
assured me that there were ten sheep at Huaheine; the truth of
which I much doubted. I was surprised and rather mortified to
find that he set so little value on this as to let me have it, at
the first word, for a small adze. I sent it to be kept at
Poeeno's with the heifer.</p>
<p>Friday 28.</p>
<p>Tinah and his wife returned to Matavai and, from appearances
which I have no reason to mistrust, were sincerely glad to see me
again after their short absence. They brought as usual a present
of a hog and fruit. This morning there was an eclipse of the sun,
but the weather was so cloudy that I had only an opportunity of
observing the end of the eclipse, which was at 19 hours 43
minutes 53 seconds.</p>
<p>Saturday 29.</p>
<p>I sent a man to shear the ewe, by which a remedy could more
easily be applied to cure the disease with which it was infected.
The garden made near the tents was not in a prosperous condition:
most of the melons and cucumbers were destroyed by insects; and
the soil being sandy was not favourable to the other seeds. I
therefore chose another spot of ground farther from the seaside
and had an assortment of seeds sown.</p>
<p>December. Monday 1.</p>
<p>In the night the rudder of one of the boats was stolen from
the tents. On landing in the morning neither Tinah nor any of his
family came near me, being, I was informed, afraid of my
displeasure. As the loss was not great I immediately sent to
assure them that I had no anger except against the person who
committed the theft. In consequence of this message Tinah and
some of the other chiefs came to the tents and promised that they
would exert themselves to discover the thief and get the rudder
restored. This was the first theft of any consequence that had
been committed since the tents were on shore, and my suspicions
fell chiefly on the people who were here from some of the other
islands. Tinah had just begun to build a house for himself and I
promised that our carpenters should assist him. Whydooah, the
youngest brother of Tinah, had lately been one of my constant
visitors and seemed to have left off his former custom of getting
drunk with the Ava. He was esteemed one of their best warriors;
and I was told that in the quarrel with the people of Eimeo he
killed Maheine the chief of that island.</p>
<p>Friday 5.</p>
<p>The weather for some time past had been very unsettled. This
afternoon the wind blew fresh from the north-west, which
occasioned the sea to break very high across the Dolphin bank;
and in the night such a heavy broken sea came into the bay that
we were obliged to batten all the hatchways down, and to keep
everybody upon deck all night though the rain came down in
torrents. The ship rolled in a most violent manner.</p>
<p>Saturday 6.</p>
<p>In the morning the wind increasing and, there being no
possibility of putting to sea, we struck yards and topmasts and
trusted to our anchors. The river swelled so much with the rain
that the point of land on which the tents stood became an island;
and to preserve the breadfruit plants from being endangered the
people were obliged to cut a passage for the river through a part
of the beach at a distance from the tents. The sea broke very
high on the beach; nevertheless a canoe put off and to my
surprise Tinah, his wife, and Moannah made their way good through
the surf and came on board to see me. There was no other person
in the canoe for the weather did not admit of useless passengers:
each of them had a paddle which they managed with great activity
and skill. These kind people embraced me with many tears and
expressed their apprehensions for the safety of the ship. Towards
noon however the sea abated considerably, but the wind continued
to blow strong from the north-west. At sunset Iddeah went on
shore but Tinah would remain with me the whole night.</p>
<p>Sunday 7.</p>
<p>The wind continued between the north and north-west but had so
much moderated that I no longer considered our situation to be
alarming. At noon Iddeah returned to the ship with a large hog
and a supply of breadfruit and coconuts; and soon after she and
Tinah left the ship, having exacted a promise from me that if the
weather was moderate I would go on shore in the morning and visit
their parents and sister who, they told me, had been much alarmed
on our account. I received a visit likewise from Poeeno and his
wife. This woman had always shown great regard for us; and now,
on our meeting, before I could be aware of it, she began beating
her head violently with a shark's tooth so that her face was
covered with blood in an instant. I put a stop to this as soon as
I could, and with the drying up of the blood her agitation
subsided. This ceremony is frequently performed upon occasions
either of joy or grief. Her husband said that if any accident
happened to the ship I should live with him and that they would
cut down trees and build me another ship.</p>
<p>From this sample of the weather and the information of the
natives I was convinced it would not be safe to continue in
Matavai Bay much longer; and I determined to get everything ready
for sailing as speedily as I could.</p>
<p>Monday 8.</p>
<p>The night proved moderate and in the morning I went on shore
where I was received by Oberreeroah, and several other friends
with great affection.</p>
<p>The plants received no injury from the bad weather having been
carefully covered from the spray of the sea: some were in a
dormant state and others were striking out young shoots. Nelson
thought that it was better to refrain a few days from taking them
on board; I therefore consented to defer it. He was of opinion
that the plants could be propagated from the roots only, and I
directed some boxes to be filled as we could stow them where no
others could be placed.</p>
<p>Tuesday 9.</p>
<p>This afternoon, in hauling the launch on shore to be repaired,
many of the natives assisting, one of them, a fine boy about ten
years old, was thrown down and a roller which was placed under
the boat went over him. The surgeon being ill I sent off for his
assistant. Fortunately no limb was broken nor did he receive any
material injury. The surgeon had been a long time ill, the effect
of intemperance and indolence. He had latterly scarce ever
stirred out of his cabin but was not apprehended to be in a
dangerous state; nevertheless this evening he appeared to be so
much worse than usual that it was thought necessary to remove him
to some place where he could have more air; but to no effect for
he died in an hour afterwards. This unfortunate man drank very
hard and was so averse to exercise that he never would be
prevailed on to take half a dozen turns upon deck at a time in
the course of the voyage.</p>
<p>Wednesday 10.</p>
<p>As I wished to bury the surgeon on shore I mentioned it to
Tinah, who said there would be no objection but that it would be
necessary to ask his father's consent first; which he undertook
to do and immediately left me for that purpose. By this
circumstance it appears that, though the eldest son of an Earee
succeeds to the title and honours of the father as soon as he is
born, yet a considerable portion of authority remains with the
father even after the son is of age. When Tinah returned I went
with him to the spot intended for the burial place, taking with
us two men to dig the grave; but on our arrival I found the
natives had already begun it. Tinah asked me if they were doing
right? "There," says he, "the sun rises and there it sets." The
idea that the grave should be east and west I imagine they learnt
from the Spaniards, as the captain of one of their ships was
buried at Oeitepeha in 1774. Certain it is they had not the
information from anybody belonging to our ship; for I believe we
should not have thought of it. The grave however was marked out
very exactly. At four in the afternoon the body was interred: the
chiefs and many of the natives came to see the ceremony and
showed great attention during the service. Some of the chiefs
were very inquisitive about what was to be done with the
surgeon's cabin on account of apparitions. They said when a man
died in Otaheite and was carried to the Tupapow that as soon as
night came he was surrounded by spirits, and if any person went
there by himself they would devour him: therefore they said that
not less than two people together should go into the surgeon's
cabin for some time. I did not endeavour to dissuade them from
this belief otherwise than by laughing and letting them know that
we had no such apprehensions.</p>
<p>In the afternoon the effects of the deceased were disposed of
and I appointed Mr. Thomas Denman Ledward the surgeon's mate to
do duty as surgeon.</p>
<p>Friday 12.</p>
<p>I went in a boat to examine the harbours about Oparre and
found two formed by the reefs. The westernmost is the most
convenient for sailing in or out but is not well sheltered from a
north-west wind or sea. This harbour is called by the natives
Taowne: it is about a league and a half distant from Point Venus
and may be known by a remarkable mountain, called by the natives
Wawry, which bears south-south-east from the entrance.</p>
<p>The easternmost harbour is called Toahroah. It is small but as
secure as a reef harbour can well be. It is about three miles
distant from Point Venus. The chief objection to this harbour is
the difficulty of getting out with the common tradewind, the
entrance being on the east side, not more than one hundred yards
wide and the depth without inconvenient for warping. On the south
side of the entrance is a Morai: the reef side is to be kept on
board and a lookout to be kept from aloft, whence the shoal water
is better discerned than from the deck.</p>
<p>Sunday 14.</p>
<p>This forenoon we performed divine service. Many of the
principal natives attended and behaved with great decency. Some
of the women at one time betrayed an inclination to laugh at our
general responses; but on my looking at them they appeared much
ashamed. After the service I was asked if no offering was to be
made for the Eatua to eat.</p>
<p>The weather had been fair all the last week and at this time
appeared quite settled, so that I was under no apprehensions of
danger from continuing a little longer in Matavai bay.</p>
<p align="center"><a name="bligh-04"></a><img alt="" src=
"images/bligh-04.jpg"><br>
<b>Sketch from recollection and anchor-bearings of the north part of Otaheite from Point Venus to Taowne Harbour.<br>
A. Bounty-Rock, where the ship struck, 9 feet water.<br>
B. Toahroah Harbour, where the ship lay.<br>
C. Tettyoorah Harbour.</b></p>
<hr align="center" width="50%">
<p><a name="ch9"></a></p>
<h2>CHAPTER 9.</h2>
<blockquote><b>A Walk into the Country.<br>
The Peeah Roah.<br>
Prevailed on by the Kindness of the Chiefs to defer our Departure.<br>
Breadfruit Plants collected.<br>
Move the Ship to Toahroah Harbour.<br>
Fishing.<br>
Three of the Ship's Company desert.<br>
Indiscretion of our People on Shore.<br>
Instances of Jealousy.<br>
Mourning.<br>
Bull brought to Oparre by a Prophet.<br>
The Deserters recovered.<br>
Tinah proposes to visit England.</b></blockquote>
<p>1788. December. Wednesday 17.</p>
<p>This morning I took a walk into the country accompanied by
Nelson and my old friend Moannah. The breadth of the border of
low land before we arrived at the foot of the hills was near
three miles. This part of our journey was through a delightful
country, well covered with breadfruit and coconut-trees, and
strewed with houses in which were swarms of children. We then
proceeded along a valley, still among houses, with plantations of
yams, tarro, the cloth-plant, and their favourite root the Ava:
there were breadfruit trees on the sides of the hills which were
dwarfs in comparison of those on the low land. Our walk was very
much interrupted by a river, the course of which was so
serpentine that we had to cross it several times, being carried
over on men's shoulders.</p>
<p>On arriving at a Morai I saw a number of the natives collected
and was informed that the priests were performing their
devotions. Sixteen men were sitting on their heels; in the front
was a pole covered with a plaited coconut branch, and before each
of the men there was a number of small pieces of the same leaf
plaited, which they call Hahyree, and each had likewise a piece
round his wrist. One who appeared to be the chief priest prayed
aloud, and was answered by all the rest together: after a few
short sentences and responses they rose and each carried an
Hahyree, which they placed at the foot of the pole and returned
to prayer: this was repeated till all the Hahyree were delivered
and then the ceremony ended. I must not forget to mention that
they had placed near the pole an offering of plantains and
breadfruit, which they left for the Eatua. They very kindly asked
us to partake of a roasted hog that had been prepared for them
whilst they were praying; but as I wished to make the most of the
morning before the sun was too high I declined their offer, and
Moannah bespoke refreshments to be ready for us when we
returned.</p>
<p>We continued our walk up the valley, which became very narrow,
and had advanced a considerable way beyond all the houses and
plantations when we were suddenly stopped by a cascade that fell
into the river from a height of above 200 feet: the fall at this
time was not great but in the heavy rains must be considerable.
The natives look upon this as the most wonderful sight in the
island. The fall of water is the least curious part; the cliff
over which it comes is perpendicular, forming an appearance as if
supported by square pillars of stone, and with a regularity that
is surprising. Underneath is a pool eight or nine feet deep into
which the water falls; and in this place all the natives make a
point of bathing once in their lives, probably from some
religious idea.</p>
<p>The hills here approach each other within a few yards and are
well covered with wood. As the road appeared difficult I did not
care to proceed towards the mountain. I cannot with certainty say
how far this curious precipice is from the bay, but think in the
road by which we went it cannot be less than seven miles. It is
called Peeah Roah.</p>
<p>In our return we found a young pig prepared for us and we made
a hearty meal. We dined in the house of an old acquaintance of
Nelson's for whom he had in 1777 planted the two shaddock plants
formerly mentioned which he had brought from the Friendly
Islands. These we had the satisfaction to see were grown to fine
trees and full of fruit.</p>
<p>In their plantations they do not take much pains except with
the Ava and the Cloth-plant, both of which they are careful to
keep clear of weeds. Many of the plantations of the cloth-plant
were fenced with stone and surrounded with a ditch. The yams and
plantains are mostly on the higher grounds. As soon as we had
finished our dinner we returned towards the ship. I was much
delighted in this walk with the number of children that I saw in
every part of the country: they are very handsome and sprightly
and full of antic tricks. They have many diversions that are
common with the boys in England such as flying kites, cats
cradle, swinging, dancing or jumping in a rope, walking upon
stilts and wrestling.</p>
<p>Friday 19.</p>
<p>The wind today blew fresh but continued regular from the east
and east-south-east. We had likewise much rain and a long swell
set into the bay. I had not yet determined whether, on leaving
Matavai bay, I would go to the island Eimeo or to the harbour of
Toahroah near Oparre: this uncertainty made Tinah and the rest of
my friends very anxious; and they appeared much distressed on my
desiring them this afternoon to send on board all the things
which they wished to have repaired by the forge without delay,
that what they wanted might be done before the ship left Matavai,
which I told them would be in a few days. They very earnestly
entreated I would stay one month longer. I represented this as
impossible and asked Tinah if he would not go with me to Eimeo;
but he said that notwithstanding my protection he was certain the
Eimeo people would watch for an opportunity to kill him. He
remained on board with me all night but his wife went on shore
and returned early in the morning, bringing with her some axes
and other things that were in need of repair.</p>
<p>Saturday 20.</p>
<p>When I went on shore I found Otow, Oberree-roah, Moannah, and
several others in great tribulation at the thoughts that we were
so soon to leave them. All the people of Matavai I saw were much
concerned at my intention of going to Eimeo, and took every
opportunity to prejudice me against the people of that island; to
which I paid very little attention as their motive was
obvious.</p>
<p>Sunday 21.</p>
<p>Their expressions of friendship and affection for me however I
could not disregard, as I had no doubt of their being genuine and
unaffected, and I felt my unwillingness to leave these kind
people so much increased that the next day I sent the master in
the launch to reexamine the depth of water between this bay and
Toahroah harbour. He returned in the evening and acquainted me
that he found a good bottom with not less than sixteen fathoms
depth all the way. The harbour of Toahroah appearing every way
safe I determined to get the ship there as speedily as possible,
and I immediately made my intention public, which occasioned
great rejoicing.</p>
<p>Wednesday 24.</p>
<p>This day we took the plants on board, being 774 pots, all in a
healthy state; for whenever any plant had an unfavourable
appearance it was replaced by another. The number of those
rejected was 302, of which not one in ten but was found to be
growing at the root.</p>
<p>The natives reckon eight kinds of the breadfruit tree, each of
which they distinguish by a different name. 1. Patteah. 2.
Eroroo. 3. Awanna. 4. Mi-re. 5. Oree. 6. Powerro. 7. Appeere. 8.
Rowdeeah. In the first, fourth, and eighth class the leaf differs
from the rest; the fourth is more sinuated; the eighth has a
large broad leaf not at all sinuated. The difference of the fruit
is principally in the first and eighth class. In the first the
fruit is rather larger and more of an oblong form: in the eighth
it is round and not above half the size of the others. I enquired
if plants could be produced from the seed and was told they could
not but that they must be taken from the root. The plants are
best collected after wet weather, at which time the earth balls
round the roots and they are not liable to suffer by being
moved.</p>
<p>The most common method of dividing time at Otaheite is by
moons; but they likewise make a division of the year into six
parts, each of which is distinguished by the name of the kind of
breadfruit then in season. In this division they keep a small
interval called Tawa in which they do not use the breadfruit.
This is about the end of February when the fruit is not in
perfection; but there is no part of the year in which the trees
are entirely bare.</p>
<p>Thursday 25.</p>
<p>At daylight we unmoored and I sent the tents in the launch to
Oparre with directions that, after landing them, the launch
should meet the ship in the entrance of Toahroah harbour to show
the safest part of the channel. At half-past ten we got the ship
under sail and ran down under top-sails: when we were near the
launch it fell calm and the ship shot past her. We immediately
let the anchor go but to our great surprise we found the ship was
aground forwards. She had run on so easy that we had not
perceived it at the time. This accident occasioned us much
trouble as we were obliged to send anchors out astern to get the
ship afloat: in doing this one of the cables swept a rock and was
not got clear again without much difficulty. When the ship was
moored Point Venus bore north 46 degrees east. The east point of
the harbour north 65 degrees east one-quarter of a mile. Our
distance from the shore half a cable's length; depth of water 8
1/2 fathoms.</p>
<p>Friday 26.</p>
<p>The next morning on my landing I was welcomed by all the
principal people; I may say by the whole crowd, and congratulated
on the safety of the ship. Tinah showed me a house near the
waterside abreast the ship, which he desired I would make use of
and which was large enough for all our purposes. He and his
brother Oreepyah then desired I would stay and receive a formal
address and present which they called Otee. To this I assented
and a stool was brought for me to sit on. They then left me with
Moannah and in a short time I saw Tinah returning with about
twenty men who all made a stop at some distance, and a priest
said a short prayer to the Eatua, to which the rest made reply. A
man was then sent to me three several times, at each time
bringing me a small pig and the stem of a plantain leaf. The
first they told me was for the God of Brittannee, the next for
King George, and the last for myself. Moannah then got up and,
without being dictated to, made an oration for me; the purport of
which I understood to be that I received their offering with
thanks; that we were good people and friends; and therefore he
exhorted them to commit no thefts: he told them to bring their
pigs, coconuts, and breadfruit, and they would receive good
things in return; that we took nothing without their consent; and
finally that every man was to quit the place (the house we
occupied) at night; for if they made any visit in the dark they
would be killed. With this speech the ceremony ended.</p>
<p>I found this a delightful situation and in every respect
convenient. The ship was perfectly sheltered by the reefs in
smooth water and close to a fine beach without the least surf. A
small river with very good water runs into the sea about the
middle of the harbour. I gave directions for the plants to be
landed and the same party to be with them as at Matavai. Tinah
fixed his dwelling close to our station.</p>
<p>Monday 29.</p>
<p>Some of the natives took advantage of the butcher's negligence
and stole his cleaver. I complained of this to the chiefs who
were on board and they promised that they would endeavour to
recover it; but an article so valuable as this was to the natives
I had no great expectation of seeing restored.</p>
<p>The ship continued to be supplied by the natives as usual.
Coconuts were in such plenty that I believe not a pint of water
was drunk on board the ship in the twenty-four hours. Breadfruit
began to be scarce though we purchased without difficulty a
sufficient quantity for our consumption: there was however
another harvest approaching which they expected would be fit for
use in five or six weeks. The better kind of plantains also were
become scarce; but a kind which they call vayhee were in great
plenty. This fruit does not hang on the trees like the other
kinds but grows upon an upright stalk of considerable strength
and substance. Though this plantain is inferior in quality to
most of the others it affords great subsistence to the natives.
We received almost every day presents of fish, chiefly dolphin
and albacore, and a few small rock fish. Their fishing is mostly
in the night when they make strong lights on the reefs which
attract the fish to them. Sometimes in fine weather the canoes
are out in such numbers that the whole sea appears illuminated.
In the canoes they fish with hook and line and on the reefs they
struck the fish with a spear. Some likewise carry out small nets
which are managed by two men. In the daytime their fishing canoes
go without the reefs, sometimes to a considerable distance, where
they fish with rods and lines and catch bonetas and other fish.
Whenever there is a show of fish a fleet of canoes immediately
proceeds to sea. Their hooks being bright are used without bait
in the manner of our artificial flies. Their rods are made of
bamboo; but when there are any very large fish they make use of
an outrigger over the fore part of the canoe, about twenty-five
feet in length, which has two prongs at the extremity, to each of
which is fastened a hook and line; and when a fish takes the hook
it is raised by ropes managed by two men in the stern of the
canoe.</p>
<p>January 1789. Thursday 1.</p>
<p>Contrary to my expectation Tinah this afternoon brought on
board the cleaver that had been stolen. The thief had taken it to
Attahooroo, and Tinah told me, which I could easily believe, that
it was given up with reluctance.</p>
<p>Friday 2.</p>
<p>The next morning I offered Tinah a present of axes and other
things but, as he suspected this was meant by way of return for
getting the cleaver restored, he would not be prevailed with to
accept a single article.</p>
<p>I had constantly the company of Tinah, his wife, and some of
his relations; but the royal children, though so near us, never
came in sight of the ship. The river separated them from the
place occupied by our people on shore and, for fear of giving
alarm or offence, I gave strict orders that no one should attempt
to go near their place of residence.</p>
<p>Monday 5.</p>
<p>At the relief of the watch at four o'clock this morning the
small cutter was missing. I was immediately informed of it and
mustered the ship's company, when it appeared that three men were
absent: Charles Churchill, the ship's corporal and two of the
seamen, William Musprat and John Millward, the latter of whom had
been sentinel from twelve to two in the morning. They had taken
with them eight stand of arms and ammunition; but what their plan
was, or which way they had gone, no one on board seemed to have
the least knowledge. I went on shore to the chiefs and soon
received information that the boat was at Matavai; and that the
deserters had departed in a sailing canoe for the island
Tethuroa. On this intelligence I sent the master to Matavai to
search for the small cutter, and one of the chiefs went with him;
but before they had got halfway they met the boat with five of
the natives who were bringing her back to the ship. This service
rendered me by the people of Matavai pleased me much and I
rewarded the men accordingly.</p>
<p>I told Tinah and the other chiefs that I expected they would
get the deserters brought back; for that I was determined not to
leave Otaheite without them. They assured me that they would do
everything in their power to have them taken and it was agreed
that Oreepyah and Moannah should depart the next morning for
Tethuroa. Oreepyah enquired if they had pocket pistols "for,"
said he, "though we may surprise and seize them before they can
make use of their muskets, yet if they have pistols they may do
mischief, even while they are held." I quietened these
apprehensions by assuring them that the deserters had no pistols
with them.</p>
<p>Tuesday 6.</p>
<p>At daylight Oreepyah and Moannah set off in two canoes for
Tethuroa, but the weather became so boisterous that they were
obliged to return in the forenoon, and I was happy to see them
get safe in as the sea ran very high without the harbour. From
the first of this month the weather and winds had been much
unsettled with a great deal of rain. Our former station at
Matavai appeared not at all safe, the sea at times breaking high
over the Dolphin bank and making a great swell in the bay.
Oreepyah and Moannah both promised me that they would sail again
as soon as the weather should be fine.</p>
<p>Friday 9.</p>
<p>The wind continued to blow strong at sea though in the harbour
we had at times but light breezes. Poeeno, from Matavai, came to
see me today: he said he was apprehensive that I was displeased
with him on account of our deserters having been carried to
Tethuroa by a canoe from Matavai. This he declared had been done
before he heard of it; and that the only service in his power he
had not neglected to do for me, which was the sending our boat
back. As this was really an act of friendship I received him with
great cordiality; and he assured me that there could be no doubt
from the directions Tinah had given of the deserters being
brought to the ship as soon as the weather would admit canoes to
go after them.</p>
<p>Saturday 10.</p>
<p>One of the officers this morning on shore inadvertently
plucked a branch from a tree called Tutuee, that bears the oil
nut, which was growing at a Morai. On entering with it into the
house occupied by our people all the natives, both men and women,
immediately went away. When I went on shore I found this branch
tied to one of the posts of the house, although the effect it had
on the natives was known. I was much displeased at this piece of
wantonness and ordered the branch to be taken away; but the
natives notwithstanding would not come near the place. They said
the house was taboo, which I understand to signify interdicted,
and that none of them might approach it till the taboo was taken
off, which could only be done by Tinah. To take anything away
from a Morai is regarded as a kind of sacrilege and, they
believe, gives great offence to the Eatua. At my request Tinah
took off the taboo, but not before the afternoon. This was
performed by an offering of a plantain leaf at the Morai, and a
prayer made to the Eatua. After this ceremony the house was
resorted to by the natives as usual.</p>
<p>I had not yet given up the hope of obtaining the bull from
Itteah, though I had hitherto received no satisfactory answer to
the messages which Tinah had sent at my desire: I therefore spoke
to Poeeno who undertook to negotiate this business, and I
commissioned him to make very liberal offers. He left me after
dinner to return to Matavai. In the evening a messenger arrived
from him to acquaint me that, in his absence, the sheep which I
had trusted to his care had been killed by a dog; and that he had
sent the culprit, hoping that I would kill him for the offence he
had committed. This poor sheep had been so much diseased that I
could not help suspecting he died without the dog's assistance,
and that the story of the dog was invented to prevent my
attributing it to want of care. This doubt did not appear in my
answer; as for the dog I told the messenger to do with him what
he pleased.</p>
<p>Tuesday 13.</p>
<p>This morning, the weather being more moderate than it had been
for some days past, Oreepyah sailed with two canoes for
Tethuroa.</p>
<p>Wednesday 14.</p>
<p>Some business prevented Moannah from accompanying him but he
followed the next day with two other canoes. The wood that we had
got at Matavai being expended I applied to Tinah, who sent three
trees down to the waterside before night, which when cut up made
a good launch load.</p>
<p>I saw two instances of jealousy today one of which had nearly
produced fatal consequences. A man was detected with a married
woman by the husband, who stabbed him in the belly with a knife:
fortunately the intestines escaped and the wound did not prove
dangerous. The other instance was a girl, who had constantly
lived with my coxswain, beating another girl that she discovered
to have been too intimate with him.</p>
<p>Friday 16.</p>
<p>In walking today with Tinah near a tupapow I was surprised by
a sudden outcry of grief. As I expressed a desire to see the
distressed person Tinah took me to the place where we found a
number of women, one of whom was the mother of a young female
child that lay dead. On seeing us their mourning not only
immediately ceased, but to my astonishment they all burst into an
immoderate fit of laughter, and while we remained appeared much
diverted with our visit. I told Tinah the woman had no sorrow for
her child otherwise her grief would not have so easily subsided;
on which he jocosely told her to cry again: they did not however
resume their mourning in our presence. This strange behaviour
would incline us to think them hardhearted and unfeeling, did we
not know that they are fond parents and in general very
affectionate: it is therefore to be ascribed to their extreme
levity of disposition; and it is probable that death does not
appear to them with so many terrors as it does to people of a
more serious cast.</p>
<p>Sunday 18.</p>
<p>I received a message from Poeeno to acquaint me that he had
been successful in his negotiation for the bull, which he had
driven part of the way by land, but could not get farther on
account of the rivers and therefore desired a boat should be sent
for him. I accordingly ordered the launch to be got ready and at
two o'clock the next morning Mr. Fryer, the master, set off in
her.</p>
<p>Monday 19.</p>
<p>In the afternoon the launch returned with the bull and my
friend Poeeno. For the night I directed that the bull should
remain at Oparre and the next day he was taken to the cow at
Matavai.</p>
<p>Wednesday 21.</p>
<p>Today Poeeno brought to me the person from whom he had the
bull to receive the stipulated payment, which was one of every
article of traffic that I had in my possession. This man, whose
name was Oweevee, they told me was inspired by a divine spirit;
and that in all matters of consequence he was consulted, for that
he conversed with the Eatua. It was, they said, the Eatua that
ordered him to demand the bull from Tinah, which not to have
complied with would have been the height of impiety. I
endeavoured to convince them of the roguery of this man, thinking
I had a fair argument to prove it by his selling that which the
Eatua had ordered him to keep; but here I was easily defeated for
it seems the Eatua told him to sell me the beast. This being the
case I said I would not give the animals to any person; that they
were now mine and that I would leave them under the protection of
Poeeno and Tinah who I hoped would take care of them for me till
I returned. They both entered into my views and promised the
animals should be attended to, and told me that, while they were
considered as my property, no one would attempt to take them
away.</p>
<p>Thursday 22.</p>
<p>This afternoon I received a message from Teppahoo to inform me
that our deserters had passed this harbour and were at Tettaha,
about five miles distant. I ordered the cutter to be got ready,
and a little before sunset left the ship, taking Oedidee with me.
By his advice I landed at some distance from the place where the
deserters were but, thinking it necessary to have the boat within
call, and Oedidee assuring me that there was safe landing farther
on, I directed the boat to proceed along shore whilst Oedidee and
I walked along the beach. The night was very dark and windy and
the shore being rocky I soon lost sight of the boat. A few of the
natives had joined us in our walk and from their manner I had
reason to suspect them of a design to close upon us, with an
intention no doubt to plunder: I was provided with pocket-pistols
and on producing one they left us. Oedidee was so much alarmed
that I could scarce prevail on him to proceed. When we arrived at
Teppahoo's house we were very kindly received by him and his
wife. The cutter was arrived but there being a very high surf she
could not come within a hundred yards of the shore.</p>
<p>The deserters I was informed were in a house close to us, and
I imagined there would be no great difficulty in securing them
with the assistance of the natives. They had however heard of my
arrival; and when I was near the house they came out without
their arms and delivered themselves up. I sent directions off to
the boat for one of my people to come on shore and for the boat
to return to the place where I had landed. My next business was
to secure the arms, which I delivered to Teppahoo to take charge
of for the night. One musket and two bayonets were missing, which
they said were lost by the canoe in which they came from Tethuroa
having overset. I then took leave of Teppahoo who presented us
with a plentiful supply of provisions, and we proceeded with the
deserters towards the boat but, as the wind had increased and it
rained hard, I determined to remain on shore till the morning;
and having found shelter for the people we passed the remainder
of the night without accident. At daylight I sent for the arms
and we returned to the ship.</p>
<p>Friday 23.</p>
<p>I learnt from the deserters that at Tethuroa they had seen
Oreepyah and Moannah, who had made an attempt to secure them.
They said it was their intention to have returned to the ship;
and it is probable that they were so much harassed by the natives
watching for an opportunity to surprise them that they might wish
to have the merit of returning of their own accord, to avoid the
disgrace of being seized and brought back. At the time they
delivered themselves up to me it was not in their power to have
made resistance, their ammunition having been spoiled by the
wet.</p>
<p>In consequence of my having been kept all night from the ship
by the tempestuous weather the timekeeper went down at 10 hours 5
minutes 36 seconds. Its rate previous to this was 1 second, 7
losing in 24 hours, and its error from the mean time at Greenwich
was 7 minutes 29 seconds, 2 too slow. I set it going again by a
common watch, corrected by observations, and endeavoured to make
the error the same as if it had not stopped; but being over
cautious made me tedious in setting it in motion, and increased
the error from mean time at Greenwich. The rate of going I did
not find to have altered.</p>
<p>At dinner Tinah congratulated me on having recovered my men,
but expressed some concern that they had not been brought by
Oreepyah and Moannah, lest I should imagine they had not done
everything in their power. To this I replied that I was perfectly
satisfied of their good intentions to serve me, and that I
considered myself under great obligations to them for the trouble
they had been at on my account. I learnt afterwards that they had
actually seized and bound the deserters but had been prevailed
upon, by fair promises of their returning peaceably to the ship,
to let them loose: the deserters however, finding an opportunity
to get possession of their arms, again set the natives at
defiance.</p>
<p>Friday 30.</p>
<p>This afternoon I punished one of the seamen, Isaac Martin,
with nineteen lashes for striking an Indian. This was a
transgression of so serious a nature and such a direct violation
of my orders that I would on no account be prevailed on to
forgive it, though great intercession was made by some of the
chiefs.</p>
<p>Oreepyah and Moannah were not yet returned from Tethuroa. This
place is resorted to by the principal people of this part of
Otaheite at particular seasons when fish are in great plenty
there. It was described to me to be a group of small keys
surrounded by a reef: their produce is chiefly coconuts and
plantains. During the season breadfruit and other provisions are
daily carried over from Otaheite. Not less than a hundred sail of
canoes were at Tethuroa when our deserters were there.</p>
<p>Teppahoo and his wife were become my constant visitors: he had
for some time past been ill, and had made Oparre his place of
residence for the benefit of our surgeon's advice and assistance.
At this time he complained of a hoarseness and sore throat. Mr.
Ledward, on examining him, discovered there had been two holes in
the roof of his mouth which, though healed, had the appearance of
having been large: the adjacent parts appeared sound, yet the
surgeon was of opinion that they were cancerous and would in the
end occasion his death.</p>
<p>Saturday 31.</p>
<p>This morning I ordered all the chests to be taken on shore,
and the inside of the ship to be washed with boiling water to
kill the cockroaches. We were constantly obliged to be at great
pains to keep the ship clear of vermin on account of the plants.
By the help of traps and good cats we were freed from rats and
mice. When I was at Otaheite with Captain Cook there were great
numbers of rats about all the houses, and so tame that they
flocked round the people at their meals for the offals which were
commonly thrown to them; but at this time we scarce ever saw a
rat which must be attributed to the industry of a breed of cats
left here by European ships.</p>
<p>After breakfast I walked with Tinah to Matavai to see the
cattle and the gardens. Tinah had already taken so large a dose
of the Ava that he was perfectly stupefied. Iddeah however was
with us, and she is one of the most intelligent persons I met
with at Otaheite. We went first to Poeeno's house and saw the
bull and cow together in a very fine pasture. I was informed that
the cow had taken the bull; so that if no untoward accident
happens there is a fair chance of the breed being established. In
the garden near Poeeno's house many things had failed. The Indian
corn was in a fine state and I have no doubt but they will
cultivate it all over the country. A fig-tree was in a very
thriving way, as were two vines, a pineapple plant, and some
slips of a shaddock-tree. From this place we walked to the garden
at Point Venus, but I had the mortification to find almost
everything there destroyed by the hogs. Some underground peas and
Indian corn had escaped, and likewise the caliloo green and ocra
of Jamaica.</p>
<p>We returned to the ship, and after dinner I was not a little
surprised to hear Tinah seriously propose that he and his wife
should go with me to England. He said he would only take two
servants; that he much wished to see King George who he was sure
would be glad to see him. Tinah and many of his countrymen were
become extremely eager to get a knowledge of other countries, and
were continually enquiring about the situations of the islands
which we told them of in these seas. To quiet his importunity I
was obliged to promise that I would ask the king's permission to
carry them to England if I came again; that then I should be in a
larger ship an could have accommodations properly fitted up. I
was sorry to find that Tinah was apprehensive he should be
attacked by his enemies as soon as our ship left Otaheite, and
that if they joined they would be too powerful for him. The
illness of Teppahoo, with whom he was on good terms, gave him
much uneasiness, Teppahoo's wife being a sister of Otow's and
aunt to Tinah. They have no children as has been before related,
and if Teppahoo were to die he would be succeeded as Earee of the
district of Tettaha by his brother who is an enemy to Tinah. I
have on every occasion endeavoured to make the principal people
believe that we should return again to Otaheite and that we
should revenge any injury done in our absence to the people of
Matavai and Oparre.</p>
<p>The wife of Oedidee is likewise an aunt to Tinah, and sister
to Otow. His native place is Ulietea, where he has some property,
but which I imagine is not of such consequence to him as the
countenance of the chiefs with whom he is connected at
Otaheite.</p>
<hr align="center" width="50%">
<p><a name="ch10"></a></p>
<h2>CHAPTER 10.</h2>
<blockquote><b>The Ship's Cable cut in the Night.<br>
Coolness with the Chiefs on that Account.<br>
Visit to an old Lady.<br>
Disturbance at a Heiva.<br>
Tinah's Hospitality.<br>
A Thief taken and punished.<br>
Preparations for sailing.</b></blockquote>
<p>1789. February. Tuesday 3.</p>
<p>I was present this afternoon at a wrestling match where a
young man, by an unlucky fall, put his arm out of joint at the
elbow: three stout men immediately took hold of him and, two of
them fixing their feet against his ribs, replaced it. I had sent
for our surgeon but before he arrived all was well, except a
small swelling of the muscles in consequence of the strain. I
enquired what they would have done if the bone had been broken
and, to show me their practice, they got a number of sticks and
placed round a man's arm, which they bound with cord. That they
have considerable skill in surgery is not to be doubted. I have
before mentioned an instance of an amputated arm being perfectly
healed and which had every appearance of having been treated with
great propriety.</p>
<p>The part of the beach nearest the ship was become the general
place of resort towards the close of the day. An hour before
sunset the inhabitants began to collect, and here they amused
themselves with exercising the lance, dancing, and various kinds
of merriment, till nearly dark, when they retired to their homes.
Of this cheerful scene we were spectators and partakers every
fine evening.</p>
<p>Friday 6.</p>
<p>An occurrence happened today that gave me great concern, not
only on account of the danger with which the ship had been
threatened, but as it tended greatly to diminish the confidence
and good understanding which had hitherto been constantly
preserved between us and the natives. The wind had blown fresh in
the night, and at daylight we discovered that the cable by which
the ship rode had been cut near the water's edge in such a manner
that only one strand remained whole. While we were securing the
ship Tinah came on board. I could not but believe he was
perfectly innocent of the transaction; nevertheless I spoke to
him in a very peremptory manner, and insisted upon his
discovering and bringing to me the offender. I was wholly at a
loss how to account for this malicious act. My suspicions fell
chiefly, I may say wholly, on the strangers that came to us from
other parts of the island; for we had on every occasion received
such unreserved and unaffected marks of goodwill from the people
of Matavai and Oparre that in my own mind I entirely acquitted
them. The anger which I expressed however created so much alarm
that old Otow and his wife (the father and mother of Tinah)
immediately quitted Oparre, and retired to the mountains in the
midst of heavy rain, as did Teppahoo and his family. Tinah and
Iddeah remained and expostulated with me on the unreasonableness
of my anger against them. He said that he would exert his utmost
endeavours to discover the guilty person, but it might possibly
not be in his power to get him delivered up, which would be the
case if he was either of Tiarraboo, Attahooroo, or of the island
Eimeo. That the attempt might have been made as much out of
enmity to the people of Matavai and Oparre as to me, everyone
knowing the regard I had for them, and that I had declared I
would protect them against their enemies. All this I was inclined
to believe, but I did not think proper to appear perfectly
satisfied lest Tinah, who was naturally very indolent, should be
remiss in his endeavours to detect the offender. To guard as much
as possible against future attempts of this kind I directed a
stage to be built on the forecastle so that the cables should be
more directly under the eye of the sentinel; and I likewise gave
orders that one of the midshipman should keep watch forward.</p>
<p>In the afternoon Oreepyah returned from Tethuroa. He told me
that Moannah and himself had narrowly escaped being lost in the
bad weather and that Moannah had been obliged to take shelter at
Eimeo. Several canoes had been lost lately in their passage to or
from Tethuroa. The oversetting of their canoes is not the only
risk they have to encounter, but is productive of another danger
more dreadful; for at such times many become a prey to the sharks
which are very numerous in these seas. I was informed likewise
that they were sometimes attacked by a fish which by their
description I imagine to be the barracoota, as they attribute to
it the same propensity.</p>
<p>Saturday passed without my seeing anything of Tinah the whole
day.</p>
<p>Sunday 8.</p>
<p>The next morning he and Iddeah came to me and assured me that
they had made the strictest enquiries concerning the injury
intended us but had not been able to discover any circumstance
which could lead them to suspect who were concerned in it. This
was not at all satisfactory and I behaved towards them with great
coolness, at which they were much distressed, and Iddeah at
length gave vent to her sorrow by tears. I could no longer keep
up the appearance of mistrusting them, but I earnestly
recommended to them, as they valued the King of England's
friendship, that they would exert their utmost endeavours to find
out the offenders, which they faithfully promised. Our
reconciliation accordingly took place and messengers were sent to
acquaint Otow and Teppahoo, and to invite them to return.</p>
<p>It has since occurred to me that this attempt to cut the ship
adrift was most probably the act of some of our own people; whose
purpose of remaining at Otaheite might have been effectually
answered without danger if the ship had been driven on shore. At
the time I entertained not the least thought of this kind, nor
did the possibility of it enter into my ideas, having no
suspicion that so general an inclination or so strong an
attachment to these islands could prevail among my people as to
induce them to abandon every prospect of returning to their
native country.</p>
<p>A messenger came to me this afternoon from the Earee of
Tiarrabou, the south-east division of Otaheite, with an
invitation for me to visit him. I excused myself on account of
the distance and, at Tinah's request, sent back by the messenger
a handsome present which I hope Tinah will get the credit of. I
observed with much satisfaction that a great part of what Tinah
had received from me he had distributed; to some out of
friendship and esteem, and to others from motives of political
civility.</p>
<p>Tuesday 10.</p>
<p>Teppahoo and his family left us today to go to Tettaha, where
a grand heiva was to be performed, at which their presence was
required.</p>
<p>Wednesday 11.</p>
<p>A small party of heiva people passed through Oparre this
morning in their way to Tettaha, where they were going by
appointment. They had the civility to send me word that if I
chose they would stay to perform a short heiva before me; and I
immediately attended. It began by a dance of two young girls to
the music of drums and flutes which lasted no long time; at the
conclusion they suddenly dropped all their dress, which was left
as a present for me, and went off without my seeing them any
more. After this the men danced: their performance was more
indecent than any I had before seen, but was not the less
applauded on that account by the natives, who seemed much
delighted.</p>
<p>After this entertainment I went with Tinah and Iddeah to pay a
visit to an old lady named Wanowoora, widow to Towah the late
Earee of Tettaha, who conducted the expedition against Eimeo when
Captain Cook was here in 1777. The old lady had just landed and
we found her sitting on the beach by the head of her canoe. With
Tinah was a priest and three men, who carried a young dog, a
fowl, and two young plantain boughs: these were intended for the
offering, or present, called Otee. Tinah and his party seated
themselves at about ten yards distance from Wanowoora and were
addressed by her in short sentences for a few minutes, and
received her Otee, which was exactly the same as his. Tinah's
priest in return made a short prayer and his offering was
presented to the old lady. Tinah then rose and went to her, and
embraced her in a very affectionate manner; and she returned his
kindness with tears and many expressions which I could not
understand. Soon after he conducted her to a shed and we remained
with her till it was time to go on board to dinner. I invited her
to be of the party but she excused herself on account of age and
infirmity. Tinah gave directions for her and her attendants to be
supplied with whatever they had occasion for, and we went off to
the ship.</p>
<p>Friday 13.</p>
<p>This forenoon Tinah sent to inform me that many strangers were
arrived from all parts to be present at a grand heiva which he
had prepared in compliment to me. I accordingly went on shore and
found a great crowd of people collected together. A ring was made
at a little distance from our post, and Tinah and several other
chiefs came to meet me. When we were all seated the heiva began
by women dancing; after which a present of cloth and a tawme or
breastplate was laid before me. This ceremony being over the men
began to wrestle and regularity was no longer preserved. Old Otow
came to me and desired I would help to put a stop to the
wrestling as the people came from different districts, some of
which were ill disposed towards others. What Otow had apprehended
was not without reason for in an instant the whole was tumult:
every man took to his arms and, as I found my single interference
could be of no service, I retired to our post and ordered all my
people there under arms. At the time the disturbance began Tinah
and Iddeah were absent: their first care was for me, and Iddeah
came to see if I was safe at the post. She had a double covering
of cloth round her and her waist was girded with a large rope. I
desired her to stay under my protection: this she would not
consent to but said she would return as soon as all was over; and
away she went.</p>
<p>I immediately gave orders for two guns to be fired from the
ship without shot, which had a good effect: and as no chief was
concerned in the tumult but, on the contrary, all of them exerted
their influence to prevent mischief, everything was soon quiet
and Tinah and Iddeah returned to let me know that all was
settled. They went on board with some other chiefs and dined with
me.</p>
<p>After dinner I went on shore with Tinah and his friends, and I
found three large hogs dressed, and a quantity of breadfruit
which he had ordered to be prepared before he went on board, and
now desired I would present them to the different parties that
had come to see the entertainment: one to the chief people of
Attahooroo, one to the Arreoys, and a third to the performers of
the heiva. I presented them according to his directions and they
were received with thankfulness and pleasure. This I looked upon
as very handsomely done on the part of Tinah, and I was glad to
see that it was regarded in the same light by his guests. These
instances of liberality make full amends for the little slips
which I have formerly noticed in Tinah. At this time a day seldom
passed that he did not give proofs of his hospitality by
entertaining the principal people that came from different parts
of the island to visit him, or to see the ship. Some of the
chiefs he commonly invited to dine on board, and made provision
for others on shore. Scarce any person of consequence went away
without receiving some present from him. This I encouraged and
was glad it was in my power to assist him. But besides the
political motives that I have alluded to it would be unjust to
Tinah not to acknowledge that his disposition seemed improved: he
was more open and unreserved in his manners than formerly, and
his hospitality was natural and without ostentation.</p>
<p>Monday 16.</p>
<p>I was present this afternoon at a wrestling match by women.
The manner of challenging and method of attack was exactly the
same as among the men. The only difference that I could observe
was not in favour of the softer sex; for in these contests they
showed less temper and more animosity than I could have imagined
them capable of. The women, I was told, not only wrestle with
each other but sometimes with the men; of this I have never seen
an instance and imagine it can happen but seldom, as the women in
general are small and by no means masculine. Iddeah is said to be
very famous at this exercise.</p>
<p>Tuesday 17.</p>
<p>I walked with Tinah towards the hills to see his country
residence which was at a very neat house, pleasantly situated and
surrounded with plantations. From this place we saw the island
Tethuroa. The next morning I went to Matavai to look after the
Indian corn which I judged would be full ripe for gathering; but
on my arrival I found that the natives had been beforehand with
me, the whole being taken away. This I was not at all sorry for
as it shows that they value it too much to neglect cultivating
it.</p>
<p>Monday 23.</p>
<p>Iddeah sent on board for our dinners today a very fine tarro
pudding; and Tinah brought a bunch of bananas that weighed 81
pounds, on which were 286 fine fruit: ten had broken off in the
carriage. The tarro pudding is excellent eating and easily made:
I shall describe this piece of cookery as the knowledge of it may
be useful in the West Indies. The tarro being cleared of the
outside skin is grated down, and made up in rolls of about half a
pound each, which they cover neatly with leaves and bake for near
half an hour. An equal quantity of ripe coconut meat is likewise
grated, from which through a strainer the rich milky juice is
expressed. This juice is heated by putting smooth hot stones in
the vessel that contains it, and the tarro is then mixed with it
and kept constantly stirring to prevent burning till it is ready,
which is known by the coconut juice turning to a clear oil.</p>
<p>Wednesday 25.</p>
<p>Iddeah was very uneasy today on account of her youngest child
being ill. She would not accept of assistance from our surgeon
but said she had sent to Tettaha for a man who she expected would
come and tell her what to do. These physical people are called
tata rapaow.</p>
<p>Thursday 26.</p>
<p>This morning a man died of a consumption about two miles from
our post. I was informed of it by Mr. Peckover, the gunner, who I
had desired to look out for such a circumstance. I therefore went
accompanied by Iddeah in hopes of seeing the funeral ceremony;
but before we arrived the body was removed to the Toopapow. It
lay bare except a piece of cloth round the loins and another
round the neck: the eyes were closed: the hands were placed, one
over the pit of the stomach and the other upon his breast. On a
finger of each hand was a ring made of plaited fibres of the
coconut-tree, with a small bunch of red feathers. Under the
Toopapow a hole was dug, in which at the end of a month the
corpse was to be buried. The deceased was of the lower class; the
Toopapow however was neat, and offerings of coconuts and plaited
leaves lay on the ground.</p>
<p>The dead are sometimes brought to the Toopapow in wood
coffins, which are not shaped like ours but are simply a long
box. This custom Iddeah informed me they learnt from the
Europeans, and is not very common, as making plank is a work of
great labour.</p>
<p>March. Monday 2.</p>
<p>When I landed this morning I found the inhabitants that lived
near to us had left their houses and retired towards the
mountains; and was informed that in the night a water cask, part
of an azimuth compass, and Mr. Peckover's bedding, had been
stolen from the post on shore; the knowledge of which had caused
a general alarm. I sent a message to complain of this theft to
Tinah who did not come near me. About two hours elapsed, during
which time I went on board to breakfast and returned when I saw
Tinah and Oreepyah with a number of people at a house at some
distance; and soon after they all marched to the eastward,
passing close by our post. Oedidee, who was with me, told me that
they had intelligence of the thief, and were gone in quest of
him: and in less than an hour news was brought that they had
taken him. Shortly after the whole party appeared with the
water-cask and compass. Tinah had hold of the thief by the arm
and, showing him to me, desired that I would kill him. The
bedding, he said, he had not heard of, but would go in search of
it. I applauded him for the pains he had taken in this business,
and explained with some success the injustice of stealing from
us: that if any of our people committed the least offence against
them it did not pass unnoticed; and that friendship required on
their part that those who injured us should not be protected by
them. Tinah stopped me from saying more by embracing me and the
whole crowd cried out Tyo myty (i.e. good friend). Tinah then
left me to enquire after the bedding, and I sent the offender on
board, whom I punished with a severe flogging. I was glad to find
this man was not of Oparre or Matavai.</p>
<p>The fine fruit called Avee was just coming into season: it was
likewise in season at the time of our arrival in October. The
breadfruit trees I have no doubt bear all the year round: we have
seen a scarcity of breadfruit but have never been wholly without
it. Some fern-root was shown to me which in scarce seasons is
used by the natives as bread. It bears a long even-edged leaf
about an inch wide; the taste somewhat resembled that of a yam. I
was informed by our people that in their walks they saw in many
places patches of Indian corn just making their appearance
through the ground. This convinces me that the corn taken from
Matavai could not have been better disposed of.</p>
<p>Goats are frequently offered for sale, but I rather
discouraged the buying of them for fear of injuring the breed.
The natives will not eat them, neither will they taste the milk,
and ask with some appearance of disgust why we do not milk the
sows? I endeavoured to prevail on Tinah and Iddeah to eat the
goats milk by mixing it with fruit, but they would only try one
spoonful.</p>
<p>We had begun to make preparations for sailing, and Tinah
supplied us with a sufficient stock of wood by ordering trees to
be brought down from the country. He had frequently expressed a
wish that I would leave some firearms and ammunition with him, as
he expected to be attacked after the ship sailed, and perhaps
chiefly on account of our partiality to him: I therefore thought
it but reasonable to attend to his request, and I was the more
readily prevailed on as he said his intentions were to act only
on the defensive. This indeed seems most suited to his
disposition, which is neither active nor enterprising. If Tinah
had spirit in proportion to his size and strength he would
probably be the greatest warrior in Otaheite: but courage is not
the most conspicuous of his virtues. When I promised to leave
with him a pair of pistols, which they prefer to muskets, he told
me that Iddeah would fight with one and Oedidee with the other.
Iddeah has learnt to load and fire a musket with great dexterity
and Oedidee is an excellent marksman. It is not common for women
in this country to go to war, but Iddeah is a very resolute
woman, of a large make, and has great bodily strength.</p>
<p>Friday 6.</p>
<p>I sent Mr. Fryer the master to sound Taowne harbour. The
knowledge that we intended shortly to sail having spread among
the natives a great many broken iron tools were brought from all
parts of the island to be repaired at our forge; and this morning
a messenger arrived from Waheatua, the Earee of Tiarraboo, with
several pieces of Spanish iron which he desired to have made into
small adzes. This request was of course complied with.</p>
<hr align="center" width="50%">
<p><a name="ch11"></a></p>
<h2>CHAPTER 11.</h2>
<blockquote><b>Arrival of an Arreoy Woman from Tethuroa.<br>
A Present delivered by Tinah for his Majesty.<br>
Other Occurrences to the Time of the Ship's Departure from Otaheite.</b></blockquote>
<p>1789. March.</p>
<p>From the 5th to the 14th of this month the wind blew
constantly from between the north-west and south-west with a
great deal of rain. This was the longest continuance of westerly
winds without interruption that we experienced. On the 13th
several canoes arrived here and at Matavai from Tethuroa: in
these were a large tribe of Arreoys, and among them Huheine
Moyere, the wife of Oreepyah, who is an Arreoy woman, and
remained at Tethuroa after Oreepyah came away. On her arrival a
ceremony was performed called Hooepippee, which seemed to be
designed as a public visit to all their friends, who are
collected on the occasion. In this ceremony there was nothing
remarkable: the Arreoy men took their opportunity to plunder the
women who were near them, and Iddeah made a present of some cloth
to Huheine Moyere, and a baked hog to the Arreoys.</p>
<p>Friday 13.</p>
<p>After this ceremony a present was produced from many of the
principal people for young Otoo, the Earee Rahie, which was
received by Iddeah, Tinah being absent. This present consisted of
five hogs, and forty-eight baskets filled with breadfruit,
coconuts, tarro, and different kinds of puddings. The baskets
were decorated with slips of cloth, stained with variety of
colours and carried by 24 men, each of whom had a pole on his
shoulder, at each end of which was a basket.</p>
<p>I have seldom spoken of Otoo who was too young to have any
share in the management of affairs, and with whom we were not
permitted to have any intercourse, except speaking to him now and
then across a river; at which times I did not neglect to send the
children some little presents, so that they always rejoiced to
see me. I might have been admitted to a nearer acquaintance if I
would have gone with my shoulders uncovered, as his parents did,
but this I declined. The children do not all live under the same
roof, the two sisters eating and sleeping in a separate house,
though at other times they are generally together.</p>
<p>The island Tethuroa may very properly be compared to some of
our watering-places in England, producing a similar effect upon
those who visit it. Many who went there covered with scurf
returned plump and fair, and scarce like the same people. This
alteration for the better is in a great measure to be attributed
to the discontinuance of the Ava, which Tethuroa does not
produce: the coconut trees, likewise, which supply them with
their only beverage, growing on low sandy keys and having their
roots below the level of the sea may probably have qualities
different from the coconuts of Otaheite which, with a plenty of
fish, that at other times they are not accustomed to, must no
doubt contribute to the amendment described.</p>
<p>Saturday 14.</p>
<p>I was visited today by a very old man, an uncle to Tupia, the
person who went from these islands in the Endeavour in the year
1769, and who died at Batavia. He appeared to be near 70 years
old and was treated with much respect by the natives. He made
several enquiries concerning his nephew and requested that when I
came again I would bring his hair. At the time that Tinah
mentioned to me his desire of visiting England I asked what
account I could give to his friends if he should not live to
return; to which he replied that I must cut off his hair and
carry it to them and they would be perfectly satisfied.</p>
<p>Monday 16.</p>
<p>On the 16th I was informed that a stop was put to the sale of
hogs in the district of Tettaha. Teppahoo, the Earee of that
district, told me that they had very few hogs left there, and
that it was necessary for a certain time to prohibit every person
from killing or selling, that they might have time to breed. I
did not think it reasonable to solicit any indulgence on this
head: my friends at Matavai and Oparre promised to supply us as
long as we remained here, though we had considerably thinned
their stock. After our departure the same restriction was to take
place in these districts, and it being delayed on our account
certainly deserves to be regarded among their acts of friendship
towards us.</p>
<p>As it was generally known that we were preparing to sail a
number of the natives from other parts of the island were
constantly with us, and petty thefts were committed whenever the
negligence of our people afforded an opportunity: but no attempt
of any consequence was made.</p>
<p>Thursday 19.</p>
<p>This evening Mr. Samwel my clerk returned from an excursion to
the mountains, having been two days absent. He described the
hills to be well clothed with wood, except the tops of the higher
mountains which only produced bushes and fern. The birds he saw
were blue parakeets and green doves, except one which he found
burrowing in the ground and brought to me. This bird was about
the size of a pigeon, and proved to be a white-bellied petrel of
the same kind as those seen in high latitudes, which are called
shearwaters. He likewise brought a branch of a plant like the New
Zealand tea-plant, and which at Van Diemen's land we had made use
of for brooms. From the hills he saw the islands Maitea and
Huaheine, which are situated nearly in opposite directions from
Otaheite and are 70 leagues distant from each other.</p>
<p>Friday 27.</p>
<p>For some days past Tinah had been busied in getting two
parais, or mourning-dresses, made, which he intended as a present
to King George. Being finished they were this morning hung up in
his house as a public exhibition, and a long prayer made on the
occasion, the substance of which was that the King of England
might forever remain his friend and not forget him. When he
presented the parais for me to take on board he could not refrain
from shedding tears. During the short remainder of our stay here
there appeared among the natives an evident degree of sorrow that
we were so soon to leave them, which they showed by unusual
kindness and attention.</p>
<p>We began this afternoon to remove the plants to the ship. They
were in excellent order: the roots had appeared through the
bottom of the pots and would have shot into the ground if care
had not been taken to prevent it.</p>
<p>The weather was considerably altered for the better and the
tradewind appeared settled. The rainy and bad season of the year
may be reckoned to begin towards the end of November and to
continue till near the end of March. During this time the winds
are variable and often westerly, though we seldom found them to
blow strong in that direction. We likewise experienced frequent
intervals of fine weather; but during these months so open a road
as Matavai bay is not a safe anchoring-place for ships that
intend remaining any length of time at Otaheite.</p>
<p>Tuesday 31.</p>
<p>Today all the plants were on board, being in 774 pots, 39
tubs, and 24 boxes. The number of breadfruit plants were 1015,
besides which we had collected a number of other plants. The
avee, which is one of the finest-flavoured fruits in the world.
The ayyah, which is a fruit not so rich but of a fine flavour and
very refreshing. The rattah, not much unlike a chestnut, which
grows on a large tree in great quantities: they are singly in
large pods from one to two inches broad, and may be eaten raw or
boiled in the same manner as Windsor beans, and so dressed are
equally good. The oraiah, which is a very superior kind of
plantain. All these I was particularly recommended to collect by
my worthy friend, Sir Joseph Banks. I had also taken on board
some plants of the ettow and matte, with which the natives here
make a beautiful red colour; and a root called peeah, of which
they make an excellent pudding.</p>
<p>I now made my last presents to several of my friends with whom
I had been most intimate, particularly to Teppahoo. Several
people expressed great desire to go with us to England. Oedidee,
who was always very much attached to us, said he considered it as
his right, having formerly left his native place to sail with
Captain Cook. Scarce any man belonging to the ship was without a
tyo, who brought to him presents, chiefly of provisions for a sea
store.</p>
<p>April. Friday 3.</p>
<p>Tinah and his wife, with his parents, brothers, and sister,
dined with me today and, as I meant to sail early the next
morning, they all remained on board for the night. The ship was
crowded the whole day with the natives, and we were loaded with
coconuts, plantains, breadfruit, hogs, and goats. In the evening
there was no dancing or mirth on the beach such as we had been
accustomed to, but all was silent.</p>
<p>Saturday 4.</p>
<p>At daylight we unmoored: the stock of the best bower anchor
was so much eaten by the worms that it broke in stowing the
anchor: the small bower had an iron stock, and in these voyages
it is very necessary that ships should be provided with iron
anchor stocks. At half-past six there being no wind we weighed
and, with our boats and two sweeps, towed the ship out of the
harbour. Soon after the sea breeze came, and we stood off towards
the sea.</p>
<p>The outlet of Toahroah harbour being narrow I could permit
only a few of the natives to be on board: many others however
attended in canoes till the breeze came, when I was obliged to
leave them. We stood off and on almost all the remainder of the
day. Tinah and Iddeah pressed me very strongly to anchor in
Matavai bay and stay one night longer but, as I had already taken
leave of most of my friends, I thought it better to keep to my
intention of sailing. After dinner I ordered the presents which I
had preserved for Tinah and his wife to be put in one of the
ship's boats, and as I had promised him firearms I gave him two
muskets, a pair of pistols, and a good stock of ammunition. I
then represented to them the necessity of their going away, that
the boat might return to the ship before it was dark, on which
they took a most affectionate leave of me and went into the boat.
One of their expressions at parting was "Yourah no t' Eatua tee
eveerah." "May the Eatua protect you, for ever and ever."</p>
<p>All the time we remained at Otaheite the picture of Captain
Cook, at the desire of Tinah, was kept on board the ship. On
delivering it to him I wrote on the back the time of the ship's
arrival and departure, with an account of the number of plants on
board.</p>
<p>Tinah had desired that I would salute him at his departure
with the great guns, which I could not comply with for fear of
disturbing the plants; but as a parting token of our regard we
manned ship with all hands and gave him three cheers. At sunset
the boat returned and we made sail, bidding farewell to Otaheite
where for twenty-three weeks we had been treated with the utmost
affection and regard, and which seemed to increase in proportion
to our stay. That we were not insensible to their kindness the
events which followed more than sufficiently proves: for to the
friendly and endearing behaviour of these people may be ascribed
the motives for that event which effected the ruin of an
expedition that there was every reason to hope would have been
completed in the most fortunate manner.</p>
<p>To enter into a description of the island or its inhabitants I
look upon as superfluous. From the accounts of former voyages and
the facts which I have related the character of the people will
appear in as true a light as by any description in my power to
give. The length of time that we remained at Otaheite, with the
advantage of having been there before, gave me opportunities of
making perhaps a more perfect vocabulary of the language than has
yet appeared; but I have chosen to defer it for the present as
there is a probability that I may hereafter be better qualified
for such a task.</p>
<p>We left Otaheite with only two patients in the venereal list,
which shows that the disease has not gained ground. The natives
say that it is of little consequence, and we saw several
instances of people that had been infected who, after absenting
themselves for 15 or 20 days, made their appearance again without
any visible symptom remaining of the disease. Their method of
cure I am unacquainted with; but their customary diet and mode of
living must contribute towards it. We saw a great many people
however with scrofulous habits and bad sores: these they denied
to be produced from any venereal cause; and our surgeon was of
the same opinion.</p>
<p>The result of the mean of 50 sets of lunar observations taken
by me on shore gives for the Longitude of Point Venus 210 degrees
33 minutes 57 seconds east.</p>
<p>Captain Cook in 1769 places it in 210 degrees 27 minutes 30
seconds east.</p>
<p>In 1777, his last voyage, 210 degrees 22 minutes 28 seconds
east.</p>
<p>The tide in Toahroah harbour was very inconsiderable and not
regular. The greatest rise that I observed was 11 inches; but
what was most singular the time of high-water did not appear to
be governed by the moon, it being at the highest every day
between noon and two o'clock. The variable winds and weather at
this time of the year has no doubt an influence on the tides: on
some days scarce any rise was perceptible.</p>
<hr align="center" width="50%">
<p><a name="ch12"></a></p>
<h2>CHAPTER 12.</h2>
<blockquote><b>At the Island Huaheine.<br>
A Friend of Omai visits the Ship.<br>
Leave the Society Islands.<br>
A Water-spout.<br>
The Island Whytootackee discovered.<br>
Anchor in Annamooka Road.<br>
Our Parties on Shore robbed by the Natives.<br>
Sail from Annamooka.<br>
The Chiefs detained on board.<br>
Part friendly.</b></blockquote>
<p>1789. April. Sunday 5.</p>
<p>We steered towards the island Huaheine, which we got sight of
the next morning. At noon we brought to near the entrance of
Owharre harbour, it not being my intention to anchor. We could
see every part of the harbour distinctly, but my attention was
particularly directed to the spot where Omai's house had stood,
no part of which was now visible. It was near three o'clock
before any canoes came off to us, for the people on shore
imagined that the ship was coming into the harbour. The first
that arrived had three men in it, who brought a few coconuts. I
enquired about the chief or Earee Rahie; and one of the fellows
with great gravity said he was the Earee Rahie, and that he had
come to desire I would bring the ship into the harbour. I could
not help laughing at his impudence: however I gave him a few
nails for his coconuts and he left us. Immediately after a double
canoe in which were ten men came alongside; among them was a
young man who recollected and called me by my name. Several other
canoes arrived with hogs, yams, and other provisions, which we
purchased. My acquaintance told me that he had lived with our
friend Omai. He confirmed the account that had already been given
and informed me that of all the animals which had been left with
Omai the mare only remained alive. He said that Omai and himself
had often rode together, and I observed that many of the
islanders who came on board had the representation of a man on
horseback tattooed on their legs. After the death of Omai his
house was broken to pieces and the materials stolen. The firearms
were at Ulietea but useless. I enquired after the seeds and
plants and was informed that they were all destroyed except one
tree, but of what kind that was I could not make out from their
description. I was much pressed to take the ship into the
harbour, and Omai's companion requested me to let him go to
England. When they found that I would not stop among them they
seemed jealous of our going to Ulietea, and it appeared to give
them some satisfaction when I told them that I should not go near
that island.</p>
<p>The canoes had left us and we were making sail when we
discovered an Indian in the water swimming towards the shore,
which in all probability he would not have been able to reach. We
took him up and luckily another canoe coming alongside we put him
in her. The people of the canoe said that the man was insane, but
how he came to be swimming so far from the land we could not
conjecture. At six o'clock we made sail and ran all night to the
south-west and south-west by south, between the islands Huaheine
and Ulietea. The next morning I altered the course, steering more
to the westward for the Friendly Islands.</p>
<p>Thursday 9.</p>
<p>On the 9th at nine o'clock in the morning the weather became
squally and a body of thick black clouds collected in the east.
Soon after a water-spout was seen at no great distance from us,
which appeared to great advantage from the darkness of the clouds
behind it. As nearly as I could judge it was about two feet
diameter at the upper part, and about eight inches at the lower.
I had scarce made these remarks when I observed that it was
advancing rapidly towards the ship. We immediately altered our
course and took in all the sails except the foresail, soon after
which it passed within ten yards of our stern, making a rustling
noise but without our feeling the least effect from its being so
near us. The rate at which it travelled I judged to be about ten
miles per hour going towards the west in the direction of the
wind. In a quarter of an hour after passing us it dispersed. I
never was so near a water-spout before: the connection between
the column, which was higher than our mastheads, and the water
below was no otherwise visible than by the sea being disturbed in
a circular space of about six yards in diameter, the centre of
which, from the whirling of the water round it, formed a hollow;
and from the outer part of the circle the water was thrown up
with much force in a spiral direction, and could be traced to the
height of fifteen or twenty feet. At this elevation we lost sight
of it and could see nothing of its junction with the column
above. It is impossible to say what injury we should have
suffered if it had passed directly over us. Masts I imagine might
have been carried away, but I do not apprehend it would have
endangered the loss of a ship.</p>
<p>Saturday 11.</p>
<p>As we sailed very near the track made in former voyages I had
little reason to expect that we should at this time make any new
discovery: nevertheless on the 11th at daylight land was seen to
the south-south-west at about five leagues distance, which
appeared to be an island of a moderate height. On the north part
was a round hill: the north-west part was highest and steep: the
south-east part sloped off to a low point.</p>
<p>The wind had been westerly since the preceding noon, and at
the time we saw the land the ship was standing to the north-west.
At six we tacked to the southward, and as we advanced in that
direction discovered a number of low keys, of which at noon we
counted nine: they were all covered with trees. The large island
first seen had a most fruitful appearance, its shore being
bordered with flat land, on which grew innumerable coconut and
other trees; and the higher grounds beautifully interspersed with
lawns. The wind being light and unfavourable we endeavoured all
day but without success to get near the land. In the night we had
a heavy squall which obliged us to clew up all our sails and soon
after it fell calm.</p>
<p>Sunday 12.</p>
<p>The winds were light and variable all day with calms. At two
in the afternoon we were within three miles of the southernmost
key and could see a number of people within the reefs. Shortly
after a canoe, in which were four men, paddled off to us and came
alongside without showing any signs of apprehension or surprise.
I gave them a few beads and they came into the ship. One man, who
seemed to have an ascendancy over the others, looked about the
ship with some appearance of curiosity, but none of them would
venture to go below. They asked for some boiled fresh pork which
they saw in a bowl belonging to one of the seaman, and it was
given them to eat with boiled plantains. Being told that I was
the Earee or chief of the ship the principal person came and
joined noses with me, and presented to me a large mother of pearl
shell, which hung with plaited hair round his neck; this he
fastened round my neck with signs of great satisfaction.</p>
<p>They spoke the same language as at Otaheite, with very little
variation as far as I could judge. In a small vocabulary that I
made whilst conversing with these men only four words out of
twenty-four differed from the Otaheite. The name of the large
island they told me was Wytootackee, and the Earee was called
Lomakkayah. They said that there were no hogs, dogs, or goats
upon the island, nor had they yams, or tarro; but that plantains,
coconuts, fowls, breadfruit, and avees, were there in great
abundance. Notwithstanding they said that no hogs were on the
island it was evident they had seen such animals; for they called
them by the same name as is given to them at Otaheite, which made
me suspect that they were deceiving me. However I ordered a young
boar and sow to be put into their canoe with some yams and tarro,
as we could afford to part with some of these articles. I also
gave to each of them a knife, a small adze, some nails, beads,
and a looking-glass. The latter they examined with great
curiosity; but with the ironwork they appeared to be acquainted;
calling it aouree, which is the common name for iron among the
islands where it is known.</p>
<p>As they were preparing to leave us the chief of the canoe took
possession of everything that I had given to the others. One of
them showed some signs of dissatisfaction, but after a little
altercation they joined noses and were reconciled. I now thought
they were going to leave the ship, but only two of them went into
the canoe, the other two purposing to stay all night with us and
to have the canoe return for them in the morning. I would have
treated their confidence with the regard it merited but it was
impossible to say how far the ship might be driven from the
island in the night. This I explained to them and they
reluctantly consented to leave us. They were very solicitous that
somebody from the ship should go on shore with them, and just
before they quitted us they gave me a wooden spear which was the
only thing, the paddles excepted, they had brought with them in
the canoe. It was a common longstaff pointed with the toa
wood.</p>
<p>The island of Wytootackee is about ten miles in circuit; its
latitude from 18 degrees 50 minutes to 18 degrees 54 minutes
south, and longitude 200 degrees 19 minutes east. A group of
small keys, eight in number, lie to the south-east, four or five
miles distant from Wytootackee and a single one to the
west-south-west; the southernmost of the group is in latitude 18
degrees 58 minutes south. Variation of the compass 8 degrees 14
minutes east.</p>
<p>The people that came off to us did not differ in appearance
from the natives of Hervey's Islands, seen in Captain Cook's last
voyage, though much more friendly and inoffensive in their
manners. They were tattooed across the arms and legs, but not on
the loins or posteriors, like the people of Otaheite. From their
knowledge of iron they have doubtless communication with Hervey's
Islands, which are not more than eighteen leagues distant from
them.</p>
<p>In the night a breeze sprang up from the south and we
continued our course to the westward.</p>
<p>Saturday 18.</p>
<p>On the 18th at sunset we saw Savage Island, and in the night
passed by to the southward of it.</p>
<p>Tuesday 21.</p>
<p>At eleven o'clock in the forenoon of the 21st we saw the
island Caow from the masthead, bearing north-west by west
three-quarters west. This island is a high mountain with a
sharp-pointed top, and is the north-westernmost of all the
Friendly Islands. At noon we saw it very distinctly from the
deck, it being then nineteen leagues distant from us.</p>
<p>Thursday 23.</p>
<p>The wind being to the southward we could not fetch Annamooka,
at which island I intended to stop, before the evening of the
23rd, when we anchored in the road in twenty-three fathoms, the
extremes of Annamooka bearing east by north and south by east,
our distance from the shore being half a league. In the middle of
the day a canoe had come off to us from the island Mango in which
was a chief named Latoomy-lange, who dined with me. Immediately
on our anchoring several canoes came alongside with yams and
coconuts, but none of the natives offered to come on board
without first asking permission. As yet I had seen no person with
whom I could recollect to have been formerly acquainted. I made
enquiries after some of our old friends, particularly the chiefs,
but I found myself not sufficiently master of the language to
obtain the information I wanted.</p>
<p>Friday 24.</p>
<p>Our station being inconvenient for watering at daylight we
weighed, and worked more to the eastward where we anchored in
twenty-one fathoms; the extremes of Annamooka bearing north 85
degrees east and south 33 degrees west; the Sandy bay south 73
degrees east; our distance from the shore half a league. Sounded
all round the ship and found the ground to be a coarse coral
bottom, but with even soundings.</p>
<p>By this time some large sailing canoes were arrived from
different islands in the neighbourhood of Annamooka; and an old
lame man named Tepa, whom I had known in 1777 and immediately
recollected, came on board. Two other chiefs whose names were
Noocaboo and Kunocappo were with him. Tepa having formerly been
accustomed to our manner of speaking their language I found I
could converse with him tolerably well. He informed me that
Poulaho, Feenow, and Tubow, were alive and at Tongataboo, and
that they would come hither as soon as they heard of our arrival,
of which he promised to send them immediate notice. He said that
the cattle which we had left at Tongataboo had all bred, and that
the old ones were yet living. He enquired after several people
who were here with Captain Cook. Being desirous to see the ship I
took him and his companions below and showed them the breadfruit
and other plants, at seeing which they were greatly surprised. I
made each of them a present, and when they had satisfied their
curiosity I invited them to go on shore with me in the ship's
boat.</p>
<p>I took Nelson with me to procure some breadfruit plants, one
of our stock being dead and two or three others a little sickly.
When we landed there were about two hundred people on the beach,
most of them women and children. Tepa showed me a large
boat-house which he told me we might make use of, thinking we
should have a party on shore as our ships had formerly. I went
with him in search of water but could find no better place than
where Captain Cook had watered, which is a quarter of a mile
inland from the east end of the beach. I next walked to the west
point of the bay where some plants and seeds had been sown by
Captain Cook; and had the satisfaction to see in a plantation
close by about twenty fine pineapple plants but no fruit, this
not being the proper season. They told me that they had eaten
many of them, that they were fine and large, and that at
Tongataboo there were great numbers.</p>
<p>When I returned to the landing-place I was desired to sit down
and a present was brought me which consisted of some bundles of
coconuts only. This fell short of my expectations; however I
appeared satisfied and distributed beads and trinkets to the
women and children near me.</p>
<p>Numerous were the marks of mourning with which these people
disfigure themselves, such as bloody temples, their heads
deprived of most of the hair, and what was worse almost all of
them with the loss of some of their fingers. Several fine boys,
not above six years old, had lost both their little fingers; and
some of the men besides these had parted with the middle finger
of the right hand.</p>
<p>The chiefs went off with me to dinner, and I found a brisk
trade carrying on at the ship for yams; some plantains and
breadfruit were likewise brought on board but no hogs. In the
afternoon more sailing canoes arrived, some of which contained
not less than ninety passengers. We purchased eight hogs, some
dogs, fowls, and shaddocks. Yams were in great abundance, very
fine and large; one yam weighed above forty-five pounds. Among
the people that came this afternoon were two of the name of
Tubow, which is a family of the first distinction among the
Friendly Islands; one of them was chief of the island Lefooga;
with him and Tepa I went on shore to see the wooding place. I
found a variety of sizable trees but the kind which I principally
pitched upon was the Barringtonia of Forster. I acquainted Tepa
with my intention of sending people to cut wood, which meeting
with his approbation, we parted.</p>
<p>Saturday 25.</p>
<p>On the 25th at daylight the wooding and watering parties went
on shore. I had directed them not to cut the kind of tree* which,
when Captain Cook wooded here in 1777, blinded for a time many of
the woodcutters. They had not been an hour on shore before one
man had an axe stolen from him and another an adze. Tepa was
applied to, who got the axe restored but the adze was not
recovered. In the evening we completed wooding.</p>
<blockquote>(*Footnote. Excoecaria agallocha Linn. Sp. Pl. Called in the
Malay language caju mata boota, which signifies the the tree that
wounds the eyes.)</blockquote>
<p>Sunday 26.</p>
<p>In the morning Nelson went on shore to get a few plants but,
no principal chief being among the people, he was insulted, and a
spade taken from him. A boat's grapnel was likewise stolen from
the watering party. Tepa recovered the spade for us, but the
crowd of natives was become so great, by the number of canoes
that had arrived from different islands, that it was impossible
to do anything where there was such a multitude of people without
a chief of sufficient authority to command the whole. I therefore
ordered the watering party to go on board and determined to sail,
for I could not discover that any canoe had been sent to acquaint
the chiefs of Tongataboo of our being here. For some time after
the thefts were committed the chiefs kept away, but before noon
they came on board.</p>
<p>At noon we unmoored, and at one o'clock got under sail. The
two Tubows, Kunocappo, Latoomy-lange, and another chief, were on
board, and I acquainted them that unless the grapnel was returned
they must remain in the ship. They were surprised and not a
little alarmed. Canoes were immediately despatched after the
grapnel, which I was informed could not possibly be brought to
the ship before the next day, as those who had stolen it
immediately sailed with their prize to another island.
Nevertheless I detained them till sunset, when their uneasiness
and impatience increased to such a degree that they began to beat
themselves about the face and eyes and some of them cried
bitterly. As this distress was more than the grapnel was worth,
and I had no reason to imagine that they were privy to or in any
manner concerned in the theft, I could not think of detaining
them longer and called their canoes alongside. I then told them
they were at liberty to go, and made each of them a present of a
hatchet, a saw, with some knives, gimblets, and nails. This
unexpected present and the sudden change in their situation
affected them not less with joy than they had before been with
apprehension. They were unbounded in their acknowledgments and I
have little doubt but that we parted better friends than if the
affair had never happened.</p>
<p>We stood to the northward all night with light winds.</p>
<p>Monday 27.</p>
<p>And on the next day the 27th at noon were between the islands
Tofoa and Kotoo. Latitude observed 19 degrees 18 minutes
south.</p>
<p>Thus far the voyage had advanced in a course of uninterrupted
prosperity, and had been attended with many circumstances equally
pleasing and satisfactory. A very different scene was now to be
experienced. A conspiracy had been formed which was to render all
our past labour productive only of extreme misery and distress.
The means had been concerted and prepared with so much secrecy
and circumspection that no one circumstance appeared to occasion
the smallest suspicion of the impending calamity.</p>
<hr align="center" width="50%">
<p><a name="ch13"></a></p>
<h2>CHAPTER 13.</h2>
<blockquote><b>A Mutiny in the Ship.</b></blockquote>
<p>1789. April. Monday 27.</p>
<p>We kept near the island Kotoo all the afternoon in hopes that
some canoes would come off to the ship; but in this I was
disappointed. The wind being northerly in the evening we steered
to the westward to pass to the south of Tofoa. I gave directions
for this course to be continued during the night. The master had
the first watch, the gunner the middle watch, and Mr. Christian
the morning watch. This was the turn of duty for the night.</p>
<p>Tuesday 28.</p>
<p>Just before sun-rising, while I was yet asleep, Mr. Christian,
with the master at arms, gunner's mate, and Thomas Burkitt,
seaman, came into my cabin, and seizing me tied my hands with a
cord behind my back, threatening me with instant death if I spoke
or made the least noise: I however called as loud as I could in
hopes of assistance; but they had already secured the officers
who were not of their party by placing sentinels at their doors.
There were three men at my cabin door besides the four within;
Christian had only a cutlass in his hand, the others had muskets
and bayonets. I was hauled out of bed and forced on deck in my
shirt, suffering great pain from the tightness which with they
had tied my hands. I demanded the reason of such violence but
received no other answer than abuse for not holding my tongue.
The master, the gunner, the surgeon, Mr. Elphinstone, master's
mate, and Nelson, were kept confined below; and the fore hatchway
was guarded by sentinels. The boatswain and carpenter, and also
the clerk, Mr. Samuel, were allowed to come upon deck, where they
saw me standing abaft the mizenmast with my hands tied behind my
back under a guard with Christian at their head. The boatswain
was ordered to hoist the launch out with a threat if he did not
do it instantly TO TAKE CARE OF HIMSELF.</p>
<p>When the boat was out Mr. Hayward and Mr. Hallet, two of the
midshipmen, and Mr. Samuel, were ordered into it. I demanded what
their intention was in giving this order and endeavoured to
persuade the people near me not to persist in such acts of
violence; but it was to no effect: "Hold your tongue, Sir, or you
are dead this instant," was constantly repeated to me.</p>
<p>The master by this time had sent to request that he might come
on deck, which was permitted but he was soon ordered back again
to his cabin.</p>
<p>I continued my endeavours to turn the tide of affairs, when
Christian changed the cutlass which he had in his hand for a
bayonet that was brought to him and, holding me with a strong
grip by the cord that tied my hands, he with many oaths
threatened to kill me immediately if I would not be quiet: the
villains round me had their pieces cocked and bayonets fixed.
Particular people were called on to go into the boat and were
hurried over the side; whence I concluded that with these people
I was to be set adrift: I therefore made another effort to bring
about a change but with no other effect than to be threatened
with having my brains blown out.</p>
<p>The boatswain and seamen who were to go in the boat were
allowed to collect twine, canvas, lines, sails, cordage, an eight
and twenty-gallon cask of water, and Mr. Samuel got 150 pounds of
bread, with a small quantity of rum and wine, also a quadrant and
compass; but he was forbidden on pain of death to touch either
map, ephemeris, book of astronomical observations, sextant,
timekeeper, or any of my surveys or drawings.</p>
<p>The mutineers having forced those of the seamen whom they
meant to get rid of into the boat, Christian directed a dram to
be served to each of his own crew. I then unhappily saw that
nothing could be done to effect the recovery of the ship: there
was no one to assist me, and every endeavour on my part was
answered with threats of death.</p>
<p>The officers were next called upon deck and forced over the
side into the boat, while I was kept apart from everyone, abaft
the mizenmast; Christian, armed with a bayonet, holding me by the
bandage that secured my hands. The guard round me had their
pieces cocked, but on my daring the ungrateful wretches to fire
they uncocked them.</p>
<p>Isaac Martin, one of the guard over me, I saw had an
inclination to assist me, and as he fed me with shaddock (my lips
being quite parched) we explained our wishes to each other by our
looks; but this being observed Martin was removed from me. He
then attempted to leave the ship, for which purpose he got into
the boat; but with many threats they obliged him to return.</p>
<p>The armourer, Joseph Coleman, and two of the carpenters,
McIntosh and Norman, were also kept contrary to their
inclination; and they begged of me, after I was astern in the
boat, to remember that they declared they had no hand in the
transaction. Michael Byrne, I am told, likewise wanted to leave
the ship.</p>
<p>It is of no moment for me to recount my endeavours to bring
back the offenders to a sense of their duty: all I could do was
by speaking to them in general; but it was to no purpose, for I
was kept securely bound and no one except the guard suffered to
come near me.</p>
<p>To Mr. Samuel I am indebted for securing my journals and
commission with some material ship papers. Without these I had
nothing to certify what I had done, and my honour and character
might have been suspected without my possessing a proper document
to have defended them. All this he did with great resolution,
though guarded and strictly watched. He attempted to save the
timekeeper, and a box with my surveys, drawings, and remarks for
fifteen years past, which were numerous, when he was hurried
away, with "Damn your eyes you are well off to get what you
have."</p>
<p>It appeared to me that Christian was some time in doubt
whether he should keep the carpenter or his mates; at length he
determined on the latter and the carpenter was ordered into the
boat. He was permitted but not without some opposition to take
his tool chest.</p>
<p>Much altercation took place among the mutinous crew during the
whole business: some swore "I'll be damned if he does not find
his way home, if he gets anything with him," (meaning me) and,
when the carpenter's chest was carrying away, "Damn my eyes he
will have a vessel built in a month." While others laughed at the
helpless situation of the boat, being very deep and so little
room for those who were in her. As for Christian he seemed as if
meditating destruction on himself and everyone else.</p>
<p>I asked for arms but they laughed at me, and said I was well
acquainted with the people among whom I was going, and therefore
did not want them; four cutlasses however were thrown into the
boat after we were veered astern.</p>
<p>The officers and men being in the boat they only waited for
me, of which the master at arms informed Christian, who then
said: "Come, captain Bligh, your officers and men are now in the
boat and you must go with them; if you attempt to make the least
resistance you will instantly be put to death" and, without
further ceremony, with a tribe of armed ruffians about me, I was
forced over the side where they untied my hands. Being in the
boat we were veered astern by a rope. A few pieces of pork were
thrown to us, and some clothes, also the cutlasses I have already
mentioned; and it was then that the armourer and carpenters
called out to me to remember that they had no hand in the
transaction. After having undergone a great deal of ridicule and
been kept some time to make sport for these unfeeling wretches we
were at length cast adrift in the open ocean.</p>
<p>I had with me in the boat the following persons:</p>
<pre>
John Fryer: Master.
Thomas Ledward: Acting Surgeon.
David Nelson: Botanist.
William Peckover: Gunner.
William Cole: Boatswain.
William Purcell: Carpenter.
William Elphinston: Master's Mate.
Thomas Hayward, John Hallet: Midshipman.
John Norton, Peter Linkletter: Quarter Masters.
Lawrence Lebogue: Sailmaker.
John Smith, Thomas Hall: Cooks.
George Simpson: Quarter Master's Mate.
Robert Tinkler: A boy.
Robert Lamb: Butcher.
Mr. Samuel: Clerk.
There remained on board the Bounty:
Fletcher Christian: Master's Mate.
Peter Haywood, Edward Young, George Stewart: Midshipmen.
Charles Churchill: Master at Arms.
John Mills: Gunner's Mate.
James Morrison: Boatswain's Mate.
Thomas Burkitt, Matthew Quintal, John Sumner, John Millward, William McKoy,
Henry Hillbrant, Michael Byrne, William Musprat, Alexander Smith,
John Williams, Thomas Ellison, Isaac Martin, Richard Skinner,
Matthew Thompson: Able Seamen.
William Brown: Gardener.
Joseph Coleman: Armourer.
Charles Norman: Carpenter's Mate.
Thomas McIntosh: Carpenter's Crew.
In all 25 hands, and the most able men of the ship's company.
</pre>
<p>Having little or no wind we rowed pretty fast towards Tofoa,
which bore north-east about 10 leagues from us. While the ship
was in sight she steered to the west-north-west, but I considered
this only as a feint; for when we were sent away "Huzza for
Otaheite" was frequently heard among the mutineers.</p>
<p>Christian the chief of the mutineers is of a respectable
family in the north of England. This was the third voyage he had
made with me and, as I found it necessary to keep my ship's
company at three watches, I had given him an order to take charge
of the third, his abilities being thoroughly equal to the task;
and by this means the master and gunner were not at watch and
watch.</p>
<p>Haywood is also of a respectable family in the north of
England and a young man of abilities as well as Christian. These
two had been objects of my particular regard and attention, and I
had taken great pains to instruct them, having entertained hopes
that as professional men they would have become a credit to their
country.</p>
<p>Young was well recommended and had the look of an able stout
seaman: he however fell short of what his appearance
promised.</p>
<p>Stewart was a young man of creditable parents in the Orkneys,
at which place on the return of the Resolution from the South
Seas in 1780 we received so many civilities that on that account
only I should gladly have taken him with me but, independent of
this recommendation, he was a seaman and had always borne a good
character.</p>
<p>Notwithstanding the roughness with which I was treated the
remembrance of past kindnesses produced some signs of remorse in
Christian. When they were forcing me out of the ship I asked him
if this treatment was a proper return for the many instances he
had received of my friendship? he appeared disturbed at my
question and answered with much emotion: "That, captain Bligh,
that is the thing; I am in hell, I am in hell."</p>
<p>As soon as I had time to reflect I felt an inward satisfaction
which prevented any depression of my spirits: conscious of my
integrity and anxious solicitude for the good of the service in
which I had been engaged I found my mind wonderfully supported,
and I began to conceive hopes, notwithstanding so heavy a
calamity, that I should one day be able to account to my King and
country for the misfortune. A few hours before my situation had
been peculiarly flattering. I had a ship in the most perfect
order and well stored with every necessary both for service and
health: by early attention to those particulars I had as much as
lay in my power, provided against any accident, in case I could
not get through Endeavour Straits, as well as against what might
befall me in them; add to this the plants had been successfully
preserved in the most flourishing state: so that upon the whole
the voyage was two-thirds completed, and the remaining part to
all appearance in a very promising way; every person on board
being in perfect health, to establish which was ever amongst the
principal objects of my attention.</p>
<p>It will very naturally be asked what could be the reason for
such a revolt? in answer to which I can only conjecture that the
mutineers had flattered themselves with the hopes of a more happy
life among the Otaheiteans than they could possibly enjoy in
England; and this, joined to some female connections, most
probably occasioned the whole transaction.</p>
<p>The women at Otaheite are handsome, mild and cheerful in their
manners and conversation, possessed of great sensibility, and
have sufficient delicacy to make them admired and beloved. The
chiefs were so much attached to our people that they rather
encouraged their stay among them than otherwise, and even made
them promises of large possessions. Under these and many other
attendant circumstances equally desirable it is now perhaps not
so much to be wondered at, though scarcely possible to have been
foreseen, that a set of sailors, most of them void of
connections, should be led away; especially when, in addition to
such powerful inducements, they imagined it in their power to fix
themselves in the midst of plenty on one of the finest islands in
the world, where they need not labour, and where the allurements
of dissipation are beyond anything that can be conceived. The
utmost however that any commander could have supposed to have
happened is that some of the people would have been tempted to
desert. But, if it should be asserted that a commander is to
guard against an act of mutiny and piracy in his own ship more
than by the common rules of service, it is as much as to say that
he must sleep locked up and when awake be girded with
pistols.</p>
<p>Desertions have happened more or less from most of the ships
that have been at the Society Islands; but it has always been in
the commanders power to make the chiefs return their people: the
knowledge therefore that it was unsafe to desert perhaps first
led mine to consider with what ease so small a ship might be
surprised, and that so favourable an opportunity would never
offer to them again.</p>
<p>The secrecy of this mutiny is beyond all conception. Thirteen
of the party who were with me had always lived forward among the
seamen; yet neither they nor the messmates of Christian, Stewart,
Haywood, and Young, had ever observed any circumstance that made
them in the least suspect what was going on. To such a
close-planned act of villainy, my mind being entirely free from
any suspicion, it is not wonderful that I fell a sacrifice.
Perhaps if there had been marines on board a sentinel at my
cabin-door might have prevented it; for I slept with the door
always open that the officer of the watch might have access to me
on all occasions, the possibility of such a conspiracy being ever
the farthest from my thoughts. Had their mutiny been occasioned
by any grievances, either real or imaginary, I must have
discovered symptoms of their discontent, which would have put me
on my guard: but the case was far otherwise. Christian in
particular I was on the most friendly terms with: that very day
he was engaged to have dined with me, and the preceding night he
excused himself from supping with me on pretence of being unwell;
for which I felt concerned, having no suspicions of his integrity
and honour.</p>
<p align="center"><a name="bligh-05"></a><img alt="" src=
"images/bligh-05.jpg"><br>
<b>A copy of the Draught from which the Bounty's Launch was built.</b></p>
<hr align="center" width="50%">
<p><a name="ch14"></a></p>
<h2>CHAPTER 14.</h2>
<blockquote><b>Proceed in the Launch to the Island Tofoa.<br>
Difficulty in obtaining Supplies there.<br>
Treacherous Attack of the Natives.<br>
Escape to Sea and bear away for New Holland.</b></blockquote>
<p>1789. April.</p>
<p>My first determination was to seek a supply of breadfruit and
water at Tofoa, and afterwards to sail for Tongataboo, and there
risk a solicitation to Poulaho the king to equip our boat and
grant us a supply of water and provisions, so as to enable us to
reach the East Indies.</p>
<p>The quantity of provisions I found in the boat was 150 pounds
of bread, 16 pieces of pork, each piece weighing 2 pounds, 6
quarts of rum, 6 bottles of wine, with 28 gallons of water, and
four empty barrecoes.</p>
<p>Fortunately it was calm all the afternoon till about four
o'clock, when we were so far to windward that, with a moderate
easterly breeze which sprung up, we were able to sail. It was
nevertheless dark when we got to Tofoa where I expected to land,
but the shore proved to be so steep and rocky that we were
obliged to give up all thoughts of it and keep the boat under the
lee of the island with two oars, for there was no anchorage.
Having fixed on this mode of proceeding for the night I served to
every person half a pint of grog, and each took to his rest as
well as our unhappy situation would allow.</p>
<p>Wednesday 29.</p>
<p>In the morning at dawn of day we rowed along shore in search
of a landing-place, and about ten o'clock we discovered a cove
with a stony beach at the north-west part of the island, where I
dropped the grapnel within 20 yards of the rocks. A great surf
ran on the shore but, as I was unwilling to diminish our stock of
provisions, I landed Mr. Samuel and some others, who climbed the
cliffs and got into the country to search for supplies. The rest
of us remained at the cove, not discovering any other way into
the country than that by which Mr. Samuel had proceeded. It was
great consolation to me to find that the spirits of my people did
not sink, notwithstanding our miserable and almost hopeless
situation. Towards noon Mr. Samuel returned with a few quarts of
water which he had found in holes; but he had met with no spring
or any prospect of a sufficient supply in that particular, and
had seen only the signs of inhabitants. As it was uncertain what
might be our future necessities I only issued a morsel of bread
and a glass of wine to each person for dinner.</p>
<p>I observed the latitude of this cove to be 19 degrees 41
minutes south. This is the north-west part of Tofoa, the
north-westernmost of the Friendly Islands.</p>
<p>The weather was fair but the wind blew so strong from the
east-south-east that we could not venture to sea. Our detention
made it absolutely necessary to endeavour to obtain something
towards our support; for I determined if possible to keep our
first stock entire. We therefore weighed and rowed along shore to
see if anything could be got; and at last discovered some coconut
trees; but they were on the top of high precipices and the surf
made it dangerous landing: both one and the other we however got
the better of. Some of the people with much difficulty climbed
the cliffs and got about 20 coconuts, and others flung them to
ropes, by which we hauled them through the surf into the boat.
This was all that could be done here and, as I found no place so
safe as the one we had left to spend the night at, I returned to
the cove and, having served a coconut to each person, we went to
rest again in the boat.</p>
<p>Thursday 30.</p>
<p>At daylight we attempted to put to sea; but the wind and
weather proved so bad that I was glad to return to our former
station where, after issuing a morsel of bread and a spoonful of
rum to each person, we landed, and I went off with Mr. Nelson,
Mr. Samuel, and some others, into the country, having hauled
ourselves up the precipice by long vines which were fixed there
by the natives for that purpose, this being the only way into the
country.</p>
<p>We found a few deserted huts and a small plantain walk but
little taken care of, from which we could only collect three
small bunches of plantains. After passing this place we came to a
deep gully that led towards a mountain near a volcano and, as I
conceived that in the rainy season very great torrents of water
must pass through it, we hoped to find sufficient for our use
remaining in some holes of the rocks; but after all our search
the whole that we collected was only nine gallons. We advanced
within two miles of the foot of the highest mountain in the
island, on which is the volcano that is almost constantly
burning. The country near it is covered with lava and has a most
dreary appearance. As we had not been fortunate in our
discoveries, and saw nothing to alleviate our distresses except
the plantains and water above-mentioned, we returned to the boat
exceedingly fatigued and faint. When I came to the precipice
whence we were to descend into the cove I was seized with such a
dizziness in my head that I thought it scarce possible to effect
it: however by the assistance of Nelson and others they at last
got me down, in a weak condition. Every person being returned by
noon I gave about an ounce of pork and two plantains to each,
with half a glass of wine. I again observed the latitude of this
place 19 degrees 41 minutes south. The people who remained by the
boat I had directed to look for fish or what they could pick up
about the rocks; but nothing eatable could be found: so that upon
the whole we considered ourselves on as miserable a spot of land
as could well be imagined.</p>
<p>I could not say positively from the former knowledge I had of
this island whether it was inhabited or not; but I knew it was
considered inferior to the other islands, and I was not certain
but that the Indians only resorted to it at particular times. I
was very anxious to ascertain this point for, in case there had
been only a few people here, and those could have furnished us
with but very moderate supplies, the remaining in this spot to
have made preparations for our voyage would have been preferable
to the risk of going amongst multitudes, where perhaps we might
lose everything. A party therefore sufficiently strong I
determined should go another route as soon as the sun became
lower, and they cheerfully undertook it.</p>
<p>About two o'clock in the afternoon the party set out but,
after suffering much fatigue, they returned in the evening
without any kind of success.</p>
<p>At the head of the cove about 150 yards from the waterside
there was a cave; the distance across the stony beach was about
100 yards, and from the country into the cove there was no other
way than that which I have already described. The situation
secured us from the danger of being surprised, and I determined
to remain on shore for the night with a part of my people that
the others might have more room to rest in the boat with the
master, whom I directed to lie at a grapnel and be watchful in
case we should be attacked. I ordered one plantain for each
person to be boiled and, having supped on this scanty allowance
with a quarter of a pint of grog, and fixed the watches for the
night, those whose turn it was laid down to sleep in the cave,
before which we kept up a good fire yet notwithstanding we were
much troubled with flies and mosquitoes.</p>
<p>May. Friday 1.</p>
<p>At dawn of day the party set out again in a different route to
see what they could find, in the course of which they suffered
greatly for want of water: they however met with two men, a
woman, and a child: the men came with them to the cove and
brought two coconut shells of water. I endeavoured to make
friends of these people and sent them away for breadfruit,
plantains, and water. Soon after other natives came to us; and by
noon there were thirty about us, from whom we obtained a small
supply; but I could only afford one ounce of pork and a quarter
of a breadfruit to each man for dinner, with half a pint of
water, for I was fixed in my resolution not to use any of the
bread or water in the boat.</p>
<p>No particular chief was yet among the natives: they were
notwithstanding tractable, and behaved honestly, exchanging the
provisions they brought for a few buttons and beads. The party
who had been out informed me of their having seen several neat
plantations, so that it remained no longer a doubt of there being
settled inhabitants on the island, for which reason I determined
to get what I could, and to sail the first moment that the wind
and weather would allow us to put to sea.</p>
<p>I was much puzzled in what manner to account to the natives
for the loss of my ship: I knew they had too much sense to be
amused with a story that the ship was to join me, when she was
not in sight from the hills. I was at first doubtful whether I
should tell the real fact or say that the ship had overset and
sunk, and that we only were saved: the latter appeared to be the
most proper and advantageous for us, and I accordingly instructed
my people, that we might all agree in one story. As I expected
enquiries were made about the ship, and they seemed readily
satisfied with our account; but there did not appear the least
symptom of joy or sorrow in their faces, although I fancied I
discovered some marks of surprise. Some of the natives were
coming and going the whole afternoon, and we got enough of
breadfruit, plantains, and coconuts for another day; but of water
they only brought us about five pints. A canoe also came in with
four men and brought a few coconuts and breadfruit which I bought
as I had done the rest. Nails were much enquired after, but I
would not suffer any to be shown as they were wanted for the use
of the boat.</p>
<p>Towards evening I had the satisfaction to find our stock of
provisions somewhat increased, but the natives did not appear to
have much to spare. What they brought was in such small
quantities that I had no reason to hope we should be able to
procure from them sufficient to stock us for our voyage. At
sunset all the natives left us in quiet possession of the cove. I
thought this a good sign, and made no doubt that they would come
again the next day with a better supply of food and water, with
which I hoped to sail without farther delay: for if in attempting
to get to Tongataboo we should be driven to leeward of the
islands there would be a larger quantity of provisions to support
us against such a misfortune.</p>
<p>At night I served a quarter of a breadfruit and a coconut to
each person for supper and, a good fire being made, all but the
watch went to sleep.</p>
<p>Saturday 2.</p>
<p>At daybreak the next morning I was pleased to find everyone's
spirits a little revived, and that they no longer regarded me
with those anxious looks which had constantly been directed
towards me since we lost sight of the ship: every countenance
appeared to have a degree of cheerfulness, and they all seemed
determined to do their best.</p>
<p>As there was no certainty of our being supplied with water by
the natives I sent a party among the gullies in the mountains
with empty shells to see what could be found. In their absence
the natives came about us as I expected, and in greater numbers;
two canoes also came in from round the north side of the island.
In one of them was an elderly chief called Maccaackavow. Soon
after some of our foraging party returned, and with them came a
good-looking chief called Egijeefow, or perhaps more properly
Eefow, Egij or Eghee, signifying a chief. To each of these men I
made a present of an old shirt and a knife, and I soon found they
either had seen me or had heard of my being at Annamooka. They
knew I had been with captain Cook, who they inquired after, and
also captain Clerk. They were very inquisitive to know in what
manner I had lost my ship. During this conversation a young man
named Nageete appeared, whom I remembered to have seen at
Annamooka: he expressed much pleasure at our meeting. I enquired
after Poulaho and Feenow, who they said were at Tongataboo; and
Eefow agreed to accompany me thither if I would wait till the
weather moderated. The readiness and affability of this man gave
me much satisfaction.</p>
<p>This however was but of short duration for the natives began
to increase in number and I observed some symptoms of a design
against us. Soon after they attempted to haul the boat on shore,
on which I brandished my cutlass in a threatening manner and
spoke to Eefow to desire them to desist, which they did and
everything became quiet again. My people who had been in the
mountains now returned with about three gallons of water. I kept
buying up the little breadfruit that was brought to us, and
likewise some spears to arm my men with, having only four
cutlasses, two of which were in the boat. As we had no means of
improving our situation I told our people I would wait till
sunset, by which time perhaps something might happen in our
favour: for if we attempted to go at present we must fight our
way through, which we could do more advantageously at night; and
that in the meantime we would endeavour to get off to the boat
what we had bought. The beach was lined with the natives and we
heard nothing but the knocking of stones together, which they had
in each hand. I knew very well this was the sign of an attack. At
noon I served a coconut and a breadfruit to each person for
dinner, and gave some to the chiefs, with whom I continued to
appear intimate and friendly. They frequently importuned me to
sit down but I as constantly refused: for it occurred both to
Nelson and myself that the intended to seize hold of me if I gave
them such an opportunity. Keeping therefore constantly on our
guard we were suffered to eat our uncomfortable meal in some
quietness.</p>
<p>After dinner we began by little and little to get our things
into the boat, which was a troublesome business on account of the
surf. I carefully watched the motions of the natives, who
continued to increase in number, and found that, instead of their
intention being to leave us, fires were made, and places fixed on
for their stay during the night. Consultations were also held
among them and everything assured me we should be attacked. I
sent orders to the master that when he saw us coming down he
should keep the boat close to the shore that we might the more
readily embark.</p>
<p>I had my journal on shore with me, writing the occurrences in
the cave and in sending it down to the boat, it was nearly
snatched away but for the timely assistance of the gunner.</p>
<p>The sun was near setting when I gave the word, on which every
person who was on shore with me boldly took up his proportion of
things and carried them to the boat. The chiefs asked me if I
would not stay with them all night. I said: "No, I never sleep
out of my boat; but in the morning we will again trade with you,
and I shall remain till the weather is moderate that we may go,
as we have agreed, to see Poulaho at Tongataboo." Maccaackavow
then got up and said: "You will not sleep on shore? then Mattie"
(which directly signifies we will kill you) and he left me. The
onset was now preparing; everyone as I have described before kept
knocking stones together, and Eefow quitted me. All but two or
three things were in the boat, when I took Nageete by the hand,
and we walked down the beach, everyone in a silent kind of
horror.</p>
<p>While I was seeing the people embark Nageete wanted me to stay
to speak to Eefow, but I found he was encouraging them to the
attack, and it was my determination if they had then begun to
have killed him for his treacherous behaviour. I ordered the
carpenter not to quit me till the other people were in the boat.
Nageete, finding I would not stay, loosed himself from my hold
and went off, and we all got into the boat except one man who,
while I was getting on board, quitted it and ran up the beach to
cast the stern fast off, notwithstanding the master and others
called to him to return while they were hauling me out of the
water.</p>
<p>I was no sooner in the boat than the attack began by about 200
men; the unfortunate poor man who had run up the beach was
knocked down, and the stones flew like a shower of shot. Many
Indians got hold of the stern rope and were near hauling the boat
on shore, which they would certainly have effected if I had not
had a knife in my pocket with which I cut the rope. We then
hauled off to the grapnel, everyone being more or less hurt. At
this time I saw five of the natives about the poor man they had
killed, and two of them were beating him about the head with
stones in their hands.</p>
<p>We had no time to reflect for to my surprise they filled their
canoes with stones, and twelve men came off after us to renew the
attack, which they did so effectually as nearly to disable us
all. Our grapnel was foul but Providence here assisted us; the
fluke broke and we got to our oars and pulled to sea. They
however could paddle round us, so that we were obliged to sustain
the attack without being able to return it, except with such
stones as lodged in the boat, and in this I found we were very
inferior to them. We could not close because our boat was
lumbered and heavy, of which they knew how to take advantage: I
therefore adopted the expedient of throwing overboard some
clothes which, as I expected, they stopped to pick up and, as it
was by this time almost dark, they gave over the attack and
returned towards the shore leaving us to reflect on our unhappy
situation.</p>
<p>The poor man killed by the natives was John Norton: this was
his second voyage with me as a quartermaster, and his worthy
character made me lament his loss very much. He has left an aged
parent I am told, whom he supported.</p>
<p>I once before sustained an attack of a similar nature with a
smaller number of Europeans against a multitude of Indians: it
was after the death of Captain Cook on the Morai at Owhyhee,
where I was left by Lieutenant King. Yet notwithstanding this
experience I had not an idea that the power of a man's arm could
throw stones from two to eight pounds weight with such force and
exactness as these people did. Here unhappily we were without
firearms, which the Indians knew; and it was a fortunate
circumstance that they did not begin to attack us in the cave;
for in that case our destruction must have been inevitable, and
we should have had nothing left for it but to sell our lives as
dearly as we could, in which I found everyone cheerfully disposed
to concur. This appearance of resolution deterred them, supposing
that they could effect their purpose without risk after we were
in the boat.</p>
<p>Taking this as a sample of the disposition of the natives
there was but little reason to expect much benefit by persevering
in the intention of visiting Poulaho; for I considered their good
behaviour formerly to have proceeded from a dread of our
firearms, and which therefore was likely to cease, as they knew
we were now destitute of them: and even supposing our lives not
in danger the boat and everything we had would most probably be
taken from us, and thereby all hopes precluded of ever being able
to return to our native country.</p>
<p>We set our sails and steered along shore by the west side of
the island Tofoa, the wind blowing fresh from the eastward. My
mind was employed in considering what was best to be done when I
was solicited by all hands to take them towards home: and when I
told them that no hopes of relief for us remained (except what
might be found at New Holland) till I came to Timor, a distance
of full 1200 leagues, where there was a Dutch settlement, but in
what part of the island I knew not, they all agreed to live on
one ounce of bread and a quarter of a pint of water per day.
Therefore after examining our stock of provisions and
recommending to them in the most solemn manner not to depart from
their promise, we bore away across a sea where the navigation is
but little known, in a small boat twenty-three feet long from
stem to stern, deep laden with eighteen men. I was happy however
to see that everyone seemed better satisfied with our situation
than myself.</p>
<p>Our stock of provisions consisted of about one hundred and
fifty pounds of bread, twenty-eight gallons of water, twenty
pounds of pork, three bottles of wine, and five quarts of rum.
The difference between this and the quantity we had on leaving
the ship was principally owing to our loss in the bustle and
confusion of the attack. A few coconuts were in the boat and some
breadfruit, but the latter was trampled to pieces.</p>
<hr align="center" width="50%">
<p><a name="ch15"></a></p>
<h2>CHAPTER 15.</h2>
<blockquote><b>Passage towards New Holland.<br>
Islands discovered in our Route.<br>
Our great Distresses.<br>
See the Reefs of New Holland and find a Passage through them.</b></blockquote>
<p>1789. May.</p>
<p>It was about eight o'clock at night when we bore away under a
reefed lug fore-sail and, having divided the people into watches
and got the boat in a little order, we returned God thanks for
our miraculous preservation and, fully confident of his gracious
support, I found my mind more at ease than it had been for some
time past.</p>
<p>Sunday 3.</p>
<p>At daybreak the gale increased; the sun rose very fiery and
red, a sure indication of a severe gale of wind. At eight it blew
a violent storm and the sea ran very high, so that between the
seas the sail was becalmed, and when on the top of the sea it was
too much to have set: but we could not venture to take in the
sail for we were in very imminent danger and distress, the sea
curling over the stern of the boat, which obliged us to bale with
all our might. A situation more distressing has perhaps seldom
been experienced.</p>
<p>Our bread was in bags and in danger of being spoiled by the
wet: to be starved to death was inevitable if this could not be
prevented: I therefore began to examine what clothes there were
in the boat and what other things could be spared and, having
determined that only two suits should be kept for each person,
the rest was thrown overboard with some rope and spare sails,
which lightened the boat considerably, and we had more room to
bale the water out. Fortunately the carpenter had a good chest in
the boat, in which we secured the bread the first favourable
moment. His tool chest also was cleared and the tools stowed in
the bottom of the boat so that this became a second
convenience.</p>
<p>I served a teaspoonful of rum to each person (for we were very
wet and cold) with a quarter of a breadfruit, which was scarce
eatable, for dinner: our engagement was now strictly to be
carried into execution, and I was fully determined to make our
provisions last eight weeks, let the daily proportion be ever so
small.</p>
<p>At noon I considered our course and distance from Tofoa to be
west-north-west three-quarters west 86 miles, latitude 19 degrees
27 minutes south. I directed the course to the west-north-west
that we might get a sight of the islands called Feejee if they
laid in the direction the natives had pointed out to me.</p>
<p>The weather continued very severe, the wind veering from
north-east to east-south-east. The sea ran higher than in the
forenoon, and the fatigue of baling to keep the boat from filling
was exceedingly great. We could do nothing more than keep before
the sea, in the course of which the boat performed so well that I
no longer dreaded any danger in that respect. But, among the
hardships we were to undergo, that of being constantly wet was
not the least.</p>
<p>Monday 4.</p>
<p>The night was very cold and at daylight our limbs were so
benumbed that we could scarce find the use of them. At this time
I served a teaspoonful of rum to each person, from which we all
found great benefit.</p>
<p align="center"><a name="bligh-06"></a><img alt="" src=
"images/bligh-06.jpg"><br>
<b>Chart of Bligh's Islands discovered by Lt. William Bligh in the Bounty's Launch.<br>
a a The Track of the Launch.<br>
AND<br>
Chart of the Northern Part of the New Hebrides discovered by Lt. William Bligh in the Bounty's Launch.<br>
a a The Track of the Launch.<br></b></p>
<p>As I have mentioned before I determined to keep to the
west-north-west till I got more to the northward, for I not only
expected to have better weather but to see the Feejee Islands, as
I have often understood from the natives of Annamooka that they
lie in that direction. Captain Cook likewise considered them to
be north-west by west from Tongataboo. Just before noon we
discovered a small flat island of a moderate height bearing
west-south-west 4 or 5 leagues. I observed our latitude to be 18
degrees 58 minutes south; our longitude was by account 3 degrees
4 minutes west from the island of Tofoa, having made a north 72
degrees west course, distance 95 miles, since yesterday noon. I
divided five small coconuts for our dinner and everyone was
satisfied.</p>
<p>A little after noon other islands appeared, and at a quarter
past three o'clock we could count eight, bearing from south round
by the west to north-west by north, those to the south which were
the nearest being four leagues distant from us.</p>
<p>I kept my course to the north-west by west between the
islands, the gale having considerably abated. At six o'clock we
discovered three other small islands to the north-west, the
westernmost of them bore north-west half west 7 leagues. I
steered to the southward of these islands a west-north-west
course for the night under a reefed sail.</p>
<p>Served a few broken pieces of breadfruit for supper and
performed prayers.</p>
<p>The night turned out fair and, having had tolerable rest,
everyone seemed considerably better in the morning, and
contentedly breakfasted on a few pieces of yams that were found
in the boat. After breakfast we examined our bread, a great deal
of which was damaged and rotten; this nevertheless we were glad
to keep for use.</p>
<p>I had hitherto been scarcely able to keep any account of our
run, but we now equipped ourselves a little better by getting a
log-line marked and, having practised at counting seconds,
several could do it with some degree of exactness.</p>
<p>The islands we had passed lie between the latitude of 19
degrees 5 minutes south and 18 degrees 19 minutes south, and
according to my reckoning from 3 degrees 17 minutes to 3 degrees
46 minutes west longitude from the island Tofoa: the largest may
be about six leagues in circuit; but it is impossible for me to
be very correct. To show where they are to be found again is the
most my situation enabled me to do. The sketch I have made will
give a comparative view of their extent. I believe all the larger
islands are inhabited as they appeared very fertile.</p>
<p>At noon I observed in latitude 18 degrees 10 seconds south and
considered my course and distance from yesterday noon north-west
by west half west 94 miles; longitude by account from Tofoa 4
degrees 29 minutes west.</p>
<p>For dinner I served some of the damaged bread and a quarter of
a pint of water.</p>
<p>About six o'clock in the afternoon we discovered two islands,
one bearing west by south 6 leagues and the other north-west by
north 8 leagues; I kept to windward of the northernmost and,
passing it by 10 o'clock, I resumed our course to the north-west
and west-north-west for the night.</p>
<p>Wednesday 6.</p>
<p>The weather was fair and the wind moderate all day from the
east-north-east. At daylight a number of other islands were in
sight from south-south-east to the west and round to north-east
by east; between those in the north-west I determined to pass. At
noon a small sandy island or key two miles distant from me bore
from east to south three-quarters west. I had passed ten islands,
the largest of which I judged to be 6 or 8 leagues in circuit.
Much larger lands appeared in the south-west and
north-north-west, between which I directed my course. Latitude
observed 17 degrees 17 minutes south; course since yesterday noon
north 50 degrees west; distance 84 miles; longitude made by
account 5 degrees 37 minutes west.</p>
<p>Our allowance for the day was a quarter of a pint of coconut
milk and the meat, which did not exceed two ounces to each
person: it was received very contentedly but we suffered great
drought. I durst not venture to land as we had no arms and were
less capable of defending ourselves than we were at Tofoa.</p>
<p>To keep an account of the boat's run was rendered difficult
from being constantly wet with the sea breaking over us but, as
we advanced towards the land, the sea became smoother and I was
enabled to form a sketch of the islands which will serve to give
a general knowledge of their extent and position. Those we were
near appeared fruitful and hilly, some very mountainous and all
of a good height.</p>
<p>To our great joy we hooked a fish, but we were miserably
disappointed by its being lost in trying to get it into the
boat.</p>
<p>We continued steering to the north-west between the islands
which by the evening appeared of considerable extent, woody and
mountainous. At sunset the southernmost bore from south to
south-west by west and the northernmost from north by west half
west to north-east half east. At six o'clock we were nearly
midway between them and about 6 leagues distant from each shore
when we fell in with a coral bank, on which we had only four feet
water, without the least break on it or ruffle of the sea to give
us warning. I could see that it extended about a mile on each
side of us, but as it is probable that it may extend much further
I have laid it down so in my sketch.</p>
<p>I directed the course west by north for the night, and served
to each person an ounce of the damaged bread and a quarter of a
pint of water for supper.</p>
<p>As our lodgings were very miserable and confined for want of
room I endeavoured to remedy the latter defect by putting
ourselves at watch and watch; so that one half always sat up
while the other lay down on the boat's bottom or upon a chest,
with nothing to cover us but the heavens. Our limbs were
dreadfully cramped for we could not stretch them out, and the
nights were so cold, and we so constantly wet, that after a few
hours sleep we could scarce move.</p>
<p>Thursday 7.</p>
<p>At dawn of day we again discovered land from west-south-west
to west-north-west, and another island north-north-west, the
latter a high round lump of but little extent: the southern land
that we had passed in the night was still in sight. Being very
wet and cold I served a spoonful of rum and a morsel of bread for
breakfast.</p>
<p>The land in the west was distinguished by some extraordinary
high rocks which, as we approached them, assumed a variety of
forms. The country appeared to be agreeably interspersed with
high and low land, and in some places covered with wood. Off the
north-east part lay some small rocky islands, between which and
an island 4 leagues to the north-east I directed my course; but a
lee current very unexpectedly set us very near to the rocky
isles, and we could only get clear of it by rowing, passing close
to the reef that surrounded them. At this time we observed two
large sailing canoes coming swiftly after us along shore and,
being apprehensive of their intentions, we rowed with some
anxiety, fully sensible of our weak and defenceless state. At
noon it was calm and the weather cloudy; my latitude is therefore
doubtful to 3 or 4 miles. Our course since yesterday noon
north-west by west, distance 79 miles; latitude by account 16
degrees 29 minutes south, and longitude by account from Tofoa 6
degrees 46 minutes west. Being constantly wet it was with the
utmost difficulty I could open a book to write, and I am sensible
that what I have done can only serve to point out where these
lands are to be found again, and give an idea of their
extent.</p>
<p>All the afternoon we had light winds at north-north-east: the
weather was very rainy, attended with thunder and lightning. Only
one of the canoes gained upon us, which by three o'clock in the
afternoon was not more than two miles off, when she gave over
chase.</p>
<p>If I may judge from the sail of these vessels they are of a
similar construction with those at the Friendly Islands which,
with the nearness of their situation, gives reason to believe
that they are the same kind of people. Whether these canoes had
any hostile intention against us must remain a doubt: perhaps we
might have benefited by an intercourse with them, but in our
defenceless situation to have made the experiment would have been
risking too much.</p>
<p>I imagine these to be the islands called Feejee as their
extent, direction, and distance from the Friendly Islands answers
to the description given of them by those Islanders. Heavy rain
came on at four o'clock, when every person did their utmost to
catch some water, and we increased our stock to 34 gallons,
besides quenching our thirst for the first time since we had been
at sea; but an attendant consequence made us pass the night very
miserably for, being extremely wet and having no dry things to
shift or cover us, we experienced cold and shiverings scarce to
be conceived. Most fortunately for us the forenoon turned out
fair and we stripped and dried our clothes. The allowance I
issued today was an ounce and a half of pork, a teaspoonful of
rum, half a pint of coconut milk, and an ounce of bread. The rum
though so small in quantity was of the greatest service. A
fishing-line was generally towing from the stern of the boat but
though we saw great numbers of fish we could never catch one.</p>
<p>At noon I observed in latitude 16 degrees 4 minutes south and
found we had made a course from yesterday noon north 62 degrees
west distance 62 miles; longitude by account from Tofoa 7 degrees
42 minutes west.</p>
<p>The land passed yesterday and the day before is a group of
islands, 14 or 16 in number, lying between the latitude of 16
degrees 26 minutes south and 17 degrees 57 minutes south, and in
longitude by my account 4 degrees 47 minutes to 7 degrees 17
minutes west from Tofoa. Three of these islands are very large,
having from 30 to 40 leagues of sea-coast.</p>
<p>In the afternoon we cleaned out the boat and it employed us
till sunset to get everything dry and in order. Hitherto I had
issued the allowance by guess, but I now made a pair of scales
with two coconut shells and, having accidentally some
pistol-balls in the boat, 25 of which weighed one pound or 16
ounces, I adopted one,* as the proportion of weight that each
person should receive of bread at the times I served it. I also
amused all hands with describing the situation of New Guinea and
New Holland, and gave them every information in my power that in
case any accident happened to me those who survived might have
some idea of what they were about, and be able to find their way
to Timor, which at present they knew nothing of more than the
name and some not even that. At night I served a quarter of a
pint of water and half an ounce of bread for supper.</p>
<blockquote>(*Footnote. It weighed 272 grains.)</blockquote>
<p>Saturday 9.</p>
<p>In the morning a quarter of a pint of coconut milk and some of
the decayed bread was served for breakfast, and for dinner I
divided the meat of four coconuts with the remainder of the
rotten bread, which was only eatable by such distressed
people.</p>
<p>At noon I observed the latitude to be 15 degrees 47 minutes
south; course since yesterday north 75 degrees west distance 64
miles; longitude made by account 8 degrees 45 minutes west.</p>
<p>In the afternoon I fitted a pair of shrouds for each mast, and
contrived a canvas weather cloth round the boat, and raised the
quarters about nine inches by nailing on the seats of the stern
sheets, which proved of great benefit to us.</p>
<p>The wind had been moderate all day in the south-east quarter
with fine weather; but about nine o'clock in the evening the
clouds began to gather, and we had a prodigious fall of rain with
severe thunder and lightning. By midnight we caught about twenty
gallons of water. Being miserably wet and cold I served to the
people a teaspoonful of rum each to enable them to bear with
their distressed situation. The weather continued extremely bad
and the wind increased; we spent a very miserable night without
sleep except such as could be got in the midst of rain. The day
brought no relief but its light. The sea broke over us so much
that two men were constantly baling; and we had no choice how to
steer, being obliged to keep before the waves for fear of the
boat filling.</p>
<p>The allowance now regularly served to each person was one 25th
of a pound of bread and a quarter of a pint of water, at eight in
the morning, at noon, and at sunset. Today I gave about half an
ounce of pork for dinner which, though any moderate person would
have considered only as a mouthful, was divided into three or
four.</p>
<p>The rain abated towards noon and I observed the latitude to be
15 degrees 17 minutes south; course north 67 degrees west
distance 78 miles; longitude made 10 degrees west.</p>
<p>The wind continued strong from south-south-east to south-east
with very squally weather and a high breaking sea, so that we
were miserably wet and suffered great cold in the night.</p>
<p>Monday 11.</p>
<p>In the morning at daybreak I served to every person a
teaspoonful of rum, our limbs being so cramped that we could
scarce move them. Our situation was now extremely dangerous, the
sea frequently running over our stern, which kept us baling with
all our strength.</p>
<p>At noon the sun appeared, which gave us as much pleasure as in
a winter's day in England. I issued the 25th of a pound of bread
and a quarter of a pint of water, as yesterday. Latitude observed
14 degrees 50 minutes south; course north 71 degrees west
distance 102 miles; and longitude by account 11 degrees 39
minutes west from Tofoa.</p>
<p>In the evening it rained hard and we again experienced a
dreadful night.</p>
<p>Tuesday 12.</p>
<p>At length the day came and showed to me a miserable set of
beings, full of wants, without anything to relieve them. Some
complained of great pain in their bowels, and everyone of having
almost lost the use of his limbs. The little sleep we got was no
ways refreshing as we were covered with sea and rain. I served a
spoonful of rum at day-dawn, and the usual allowance of bread and
water for breakfast, dinner, and supper.</p>
<p>At noon it was almost calm, no sun to be seen, and some of us
shivering with cold. Course since yesterday west by north
distance 89 miles; latitude by account 14 degrees 33 minutes
south; longitude made 13 degrees 9 minutes west. The direction of
our course was to pass to the northward of the New Hebrides.</p>
<p>The wet weather continued and in the afternoon the wind came
from the southward, blowing fresh in squalls. As there was no
prospect of getting our clothes dried I recommended to everyone
to strip and wring them through the salt water, by which means
they received a warmth that while wet with rain they could not
have.</p>
<p>This afternoon we saw a kind of fruit on the water which
Nelson told me was the Barringtonia of Forster and, as I saw the
same again in the morning, and some men-of-war birds, I was led
to believe that we were not far from land.</p>
<p>We continued constantly shipping seas and baling, and were
very wet and cold in the night; but I could not afford the
allowance of rum at daybreak.</p>
<p>Wednesday 13.</p>
<p>At noon I had a sight of the sun, latitude 14 degrees 17
minutes south. Course west by north 79 miles; longitude made 14
degrees 28 minutes west. All this day we were constantly shipping
water and suffered much cold and shiverings in the night.</p>
<p>Thursday 14.</p>
<p>Fresh gales at south-east and gloomy weather with rain and a
high sea. At six in the morning we saw land from south-west by
south eight leagues to north-west by west three-quarters west six
leagues, which soon after appeared to be four islands, one of
them much larger than the others, and all of them high and
remarkable. At noon we discovered a small island and some rocks
bearing north-west by north four leagues, and another island west
eight leagues, so that the whole were six in number; the four I
had first seen bearing from south half east to south-west by
south; our distance three leagues from the nearest island. My
latitude observed was 13 degrees 29 minutes south, and longitude
by account from Tofoa 15 degrees 49 minutes west; course since
yesterday noon north 63 degrees west distance 89 miles. At four
in the afternoon we passed the westernmost island.</p>
<p>Friday 15.</p>
<p>At one in the morning another island was discovered bearing
west-north-west five leagues distance, and at eight o'clock we
saw it for the last time bearing north-east seven leagues. A
number of gannets, boobies, and men-of-war birds were seen.</p>
<p>These islands lie between the latitude of 13 degrees 16
minutes and 14 degrees 10 minutes south: their longitude
according to my reckoning 15 degrees 51 minutes to 17 degrees 6
minutes west from the island Tofoa.* The largest island I judged
to be about twenty leagues in circuit, the others five or six.
The easternmost is the smallest island and most remarkable,
having a high sugar loaf hill.</p>
<blockquote>(*Footnote. By making a proportional allowance for the error
afterwards found in the dead reckoning I estimate the longitude
of these islands to be from 167 degrees 17 minutes east to 168
degrees 34 minutes east from Greenwich.)</blockquote>
<p>The sight of these islands served only to increase the misery
of our situation. We were very little better than starving with
plenty in view; yet to attempt procuring any relief was attended
with so much danger that prolonging of life, even in the midst of
misery, was thought preferable, while there remained hopes of
being able to surmount our hardships. For my own part I consider
the general run of cloudy and wet weather to be a blessing of
Providence. Hot weather would have caused us to have died with
thirst; and probably being so constantly covered with rain or sea
protected us from that dreadful calamity.</p>
<p>As I had nothing to assist my memory I could not then
determine whether these islands were a part of the New Hebrides
or not: I believe them to be a new discovery which I have since
found true but, though they were not seen either by Monsieur
Bougainville or Captain Cook, they are so nearly in the
neighbourhood of the New Hebrides that they must be considered as
part of the same group. They are fertile and inhabited, as I saw
smoke in several places.</p>
<p>The wind was at south-east with rainy weather all day. The
night was very dark, not a star could be seen to steer by, and
the sea broke continually over us. I found it necessary to
counteract as much as possible the effect of the southerly winds
to prevent being driven too near New Guinea, for in general we
were forced to keep so much before the sea that if we had not, at
intervals of moderate weather, steered a more southerly course we
should inevitably from a continuance of the gales have been
thrown in sight of that coast: in which case there would most
probably have been an end to our voyage.</p>
<p>Saturday 16.</p>
<p>In addition to our miserable allowance of one 25th of a pound
of bread and a quarter of a pint of water I issued for dinner
about an ounce of salt pork to each person. I was often solicited
for this pork, but I considered it more proper to issue it in
small quantities than to suffer it to be all used at once or
twice, which would have been done if I had allowed it.</p>
<p>At noon I observed in 13 degrees 33 minutes south, longitude
made from Tofoa 19 degrees 27 minutes west; course north 82
degrees west, distance 101 miles. The sun breaking out through
the clouds gave us hopes of drying our wet clothes, but the
sunshine was of short duration. We had strong breezes at
south-east by south and dark gloomy weather with storms of
thunder, lightning, and rain. The night was truly horrible, and
not a star to be seen; so that our steerage was uncertain.</p>
<p>Sunday 17.</p>
<p>At dawn of day I found every person complaining, and some of
them solicited extra allowance, which I positively refused. Our
situation was miserable: always wet, and suffering extreme cold
in the night without the least shelter from the weather. Being
constantly obliged to bale to keep the boat from filling was
perhaps not to be reckoned an evil as it gave us exercise.</p>
<p>The little rum we had was of great service: when our nights
were particularly distressing I generally served a teaspoonful or
two to each person: and it was always joyful tidings when they
heard of my intentions.</p>
<p>At noon a water-spout was very near on board of us. I issued
an ounce of pork in addition to the allowance of bread and water;
but before we began to eat every person stripped and, having
wrung their clothes through the seawater, found much warmth and
refreshment. Course since yesterday noon west-south-west distance
100 miles; latitude by account 14 degrees 11 minutes south and
longitude made 21 degrees 3 minutes west.</p>
<p>The night was dark and dismal: the sea constantly breaking
over us and nothing but the wind and waves to direct our
steerage. It was my intention if possible to make New Holland to
the southward of Endeavour straits, being sensible that it was
necessary to preserve such a situation as would make a southerly
wind a fair one, that we might range along the reefs till an
opening should be found into smooth water, and we the sooner be
able to pick up some refreshments.</p>
<p>Monday 18.</p>
<p>In the morning the rain abated, when we stripped and wrung our
clothes through the seawater as usual, which refreshed us
greatly. Every person complained of violent pain in their bones;
I was only surprised that no one was yet laid up. The customary
allowance of one 25th of a pound of bread and a quarter of a pint
of water was served at breakfast, dinner, and supper.</p>
<p>At noon I deduced my situation by account, for we had no
glimpse of the sun, to be in latitude 14 degrees 52 minutes
south; course since yesterday noon west-south-west 106 miles;
longitude made from Tofoa 22 degrees 45 minutes west. Saw many
boobies and noddies, a sign of being in the neighbourhood of
land. In the night we had very severe lightning with heavy rain
and were obliged to keep baling without intermission.</p>
<p>Tuesday 19.</p>
<p>Very bad weather and constant rain. At noon latitude by
account 14 degrees 37 minutes south; course since yesterday north
81 degrees west, distance 100 miles; longitude made 24 degrees 30
minutes west. With the allowance of bread and water served half
an ounce of pork to each person for dinner.</p>
<p>Wednesday 20.</p>
<p>Fresh breezes east-north-east with constant rain, at times a
deluge. Always baling.</p>
<p>At dawn of day some of my people seemed half dead: our
appearances were horrible, and I could look no way but I caught
the eye of someone in distress. Extreme hunger was now too
evident, but no one suffered from thirst, nor had we much
inclination to drink, that desire perhaps being satisfied through
the skin. The little sleep we got was in the midst of water, and
we constantly awoke with severe cramps and pains in our bones.
This morning I served about two teaspoonfuls of rum to each
person and the allowance of bread and water as usual. At noon the
sun broke out and revived everyone. I found we were in latitude
14 degrees 49 minutes south; longitude made 25 degrees 46 minutes
west; course south 88 degrees west distance 75 miles.</p>
<p>All the afternoon we were so covered with rain and salt water
that we could scarcely see. We suffered extreme cold and everyone
dreaded the approach of night. Sleep, though we longed for it,
afforded no comfort: for my own part I almost lived without
it.</p>
<p>Thursday 21.</p>
<p>About two o'clock in the morning we were overwhelmed with a
deluge of rain. It fell so heavy that we were afraid it would
fill the boat, and were obliged to bale with all our might. At
dawn of day I served a larger allowance of rum. Towards noon the
rain abated and the sun shone, but we were miserably cold and
wet, the sea breaking constantly over us so that, notwithstanding
the heavy rain, we had not been able to add to our stock of fresh
water. Latitude by observation 14 degrees 29 minutes south, and
longitude made by account from Tofoa 27 degrees 25 minutes west;
course since yesterday noon north 78 degrees west 99 miles. I now
considered myself nearly on a meridian with the east part of New
Guinea.</p>
<p>Friday 22.</p>
<p>Strong gales from east-south-east to south-south-east, a high
sea, and dark dismal night.</p>
<p>Our situation this day was extremely calamitous. We were
obliged to take the course of the sea, running right before it
and watching with the utmost care as the least error in the helm
would in a moment have been our destruction.</p>
<p>At noon it blew very hard and the foam of the sea kept running
over our stern and quarters; I however got propped up and made an
observation of the latitude in 14 degrees 17 minutes south;
course north 85 degrees west distance 130 miles; longitude made
29 degrees 38 minutes west.</p>
<p>The misery we suffered this night exceeded the preceding. The
sea flew over us with great force and kept us baling with horror
and anxiety.</p>
<p>Saturday 23.</p>
<p>At dawn of day I found everyone in a most distressed
condition, and I began to fear that another such night would put
an end to the lives of several who seemed no longer able to
support their sufferings. I served an allowance of two
teaspoonfuls of rum, after drinking which, having wrung our
clothes and taken our breakfast of bread and water, we became a
little refreshed.</p>
<p>Towards noon the weather became fair, but with very little
abatement of the gale and the sea remained equally high. With
some difficulty I observed the latitude to be 13 degrees 44
minutes south: course since yesterday noon north 74 degrees west,
distance 116 miles; longitude made 31 degrees 32 minutes west
from Tofoa.</p>
<p>The wind moderated in the evening and the weather looked much
better, which rejoiced all hands so that they ate their scanty
allowance with more satisfaction than for some time past. The
night also was fair but, being always wet with the sea, we
suffered much from the cold.</p>
<p>Sunday 24.</p>
<p>A fine morning, I had the pleasure to see, produced some
cheerful countenances and, the first time for 15 days past, we
experienced comfort from the warmth of the sun. We stripped and
hung our clothes up to dry, which were by this time become so
threadbare that they would not keep out either wet or cold.</p>
<p>At noon I observed in latitude 13 degrees 33 minutes south;
longitude by account from Tofoa 33 degrees 28 minutes west;
course north 84 degrees west, distance 114 miles. With the usual
allowance of bread and water for dinner I served an ounce of pork
to each person. This afternoon we had many birds about us which
are never seen far from land, such as boobies and noddies.</p>
<p>ALLOWANCE LESSENED.</p>
<p>As the sea began to run fair, and we shipped but little water,
I took the opportunity to examine into the state of our bread and
found that, according to the present mode of issuing, there was a
sufficient quantity remaining for 29 days allowance, by which
time I hoped we should be able to reach Timor. But as this was
very uncertain and it was possible that, after all, we might be
obliged to go to Java, I determined to proportion the allowance
so as to make our stock hold out six weeks. I was apprehensive
that this would be ill received, and that it would require my
utmost resolution to enforce it for, small as the quantity was
which I intended to take away for our future good, yet it might
appear to my people like robbing them of life, and some, who were
less patient than their companions, I expected would very ill
brook it. However on my representing the necessity of guarding
against delays that might be occasioned in our voyage by contrary
winds, or other causes, and promising to enlarge upon the
allowance as we got on, they cheerfully agreed to my proposal. It
was accordingly settled that every person should receive one 25th
of a pound of bread for breakfast, and the same quantity for
dinner, so that by omitting the proportion for supper, we had 43
days allowance.</p>
<p>Monday 25.</p>
<p>At noon some noddies came so near to us that one of them was
caught by hand. This bird was about the size of a small pigeon. I
divided it with its entrails into 18 portions, and by a
well-known method at sea of Who shall have this?* it was
distributed with the allowance of bread and water for dinner, and
ate up bones and all, with salt water for sauce. I observed the
latitude 13 degrees 32 minutes south; longitude made 35 degrees
19 minutes west; course north 89 degrees west, distance 108
miles.</p>
<blockquote>(*Footnote. One person turns his back on the object that is to
be divided: another then points separately to the portions, and
each of them asking aloud, "Who shall have this?" to which the
first answers by naming somebody. This impartial method of
division gives every man an equal chance of the best share.)</blockquote>
<p>In the evening several boobies flying very near to us we had
the good fortune to catch one of them. This bird is as large as a
duck: like the noddy it has received its name from seamen for
suffering itself to be caught on the masts and yards of ships.
They are the most presumptive proofs of being in the
neighbourhood of land of any seafowl we are acquainted with. I
directed the bird to be killed for supper, and the blood to be
given to three of the people who were the most distressed for
want of food. The body, with the entrails, beak, and feet, I
divided into 18 shares, and with an allowance of bread, which I
made a merit of granting, we made a good supper, compared with
our usual fare.</p>
<p>Tuesday 26.</p>
<p>Fresh breezes from the south-east with fine weather. In the
morning we caught another booby so that Providence appeared to be
relieving our wants in an extraordinary manner. Towards noon we
passed a great many pieces of the branches of trees, some of
which appeared to have been no long time in the water. I had a
good observation for the latitude, and found our situation to be
in 13 degrees 41 minutes south; longitude by account from Tofoa
37 degrees 13 minutes west; course south 85 degrees west, 112
miles. The people were overjoyed at the addition to their dinner
which was distributed in the same manner as on the preceding
evening, giving the blood to those who were the most in want of
food.</p>
<p>To make the bread a little savoury most of the people
frequently dipped it in salt water; but I generally broke mine
into small pieces and ate it in my allowance of water, out of a
coconut shell with a spoon, economically avoiding to take too
large a piece at a time, so that I was as long at dinner as if it
had been a much more plentiful meal.</p>
<p>The weather was now serene, which nevertheless was not without
its inconveniences, for we began to feel distress of a different
kind from that which we had lately been accustomed to suffer. The
heat of the sun was so powerful that several of the people were
seized with a languor and faintness which made life indifferent.
We were so fortunate as to catch two boobies in the evening:
their stomachs contained several flying-fish and small
cuttlefish, all of which I saved to be divided for dinner the
next day.</p>
<p>Wednesday 27.</p>
<p>A fresh breeze at east-south-east with fair weather. We passed
much driftwood this forenoon and saw many birds; I therefore did
not hesitate to pronounce that we were near the reefs of New
Holland. From my recollection of Captain Cook's survey of this
coast I considered the direction of it to be north-west, and I
was therefore satisfied that, with the wind to the southward of
east, I could always clear any dangers.</p>
<p>At noon I observed in latitude 13 degrees 26 minutes south;
course since yesterday north 82 degrees west, distance 109 miles;
longitude made 39 degrees 4 minutes. After writing my account I
divided the two birds with their entrails and the contents of
their maws into 18 portions and, as the prize was a very valuable
one it was divided as before, by calling out Who shall have this?
so that today, with the allowance of a 25th of a pound of bread
at breakfast, and another at dinner, with the proportion of
water, I was happy to see that every person thought he had
feasted.</p>
<p>In the evening we saw a gannet; and the clouds remained so
fixed in the west that I had little doubt of our being near the
land. The people, after taking their allowance of water for
supper, amused themselves with conversing on the probability of
what we should find.</p>
<p>Thursday 28.</p>
<p>At one in the morning the person at the helm heard the sound
of breakers, and I no sooner lifted up my head than I saw them
close under our lee, not more than a quarter of a mile distant
from us. I immediately hauled on a wind to the north-north-east
and in ten minutes time we could neither see nor hear them.</p>
<p>I have already mentioned my reason for making New Holland so
far to the southward: for I never doubted of numerous openings in
the reef through which I could have access to the shore and,
knowing the inclination of the coast to be to the north-west and
the wind mostly to the southward of east, I could with ease range
such a barrier of reefs till I should find a passage, which now
became absolutely necessary, without a moment's loss of time. The
idea of getting into smooth water and finding refreshments kept
my people's spirits up: their joy was very great after we had got
clear of the breakers to which we had approached much nearer than
I thought was possible, without first discovering them.</p>
<p>Friday 29.</p>
<p>In the morning at daylight, we could see nothing of the land
or of the reefs. We bore away again and at nine o'clock saw the
reefs. The sea broke furiously over every part, and we had no
sooner got near to them than the wind came at east, so that we
could only lie along the line of the breakers, within which we
saw the water so smooth that every person already anticipated the
heart-felt satisfaction he should receive as soon as we could get
within them. I now found we were embayed for we could not lie
clear with the sails, the wind having backed against us; and the
sea set in so heavy towards the reef that our situation was
become unsafe. We could effect but little with the oars, having
scarce strength to pull them, and I began to apprehend that we
should be obliged to attempt pushing over the reef. Even this I
did not despair of effecting with success when happily we
discovered a break in the reef, about one mile from us, and at
the same time an island of a moderate height within it, nearly in
the same direction, bearing west half north. I entered the
passage with a strong stream running to the westward and found it
about a quarter of a mile broad, with every appearance of deep
water.</p>
<p>On the outside the reef inclined to the north-east for a few
miles, and from thence to the north-west: on the south side of
the entrance it inclined to the south-south-west as far as I
could see it, and I conjecture that a similar passage to this
which we now entered may be found near the breakers that I first
discovered which are 23 miles south of this channel.</p>
<p>I did not recollect what latitude Providential channel* lies
in, but I considered it to be within a few miles of this, which
is situate in 12 degrees 51 minutes south latitude.</p>
<blockquote>(*Footnote. Providential Channel is laid down by Captain Cook
in 12 degrees 34 minutes south, longitude 143 degrees 33 minutes
east.)</blockquote>
<p>Being now happily within the reefs and in smooth water I
endeavoured to keep near them to try for fish, but the tide set
us to the north-west, I therefore bore away in that direction
and, having promised to land on the first convenient spot we
could find, all our past hardships seemed already to be
forgotten.</p>
<p>At noon I had a good observation by which our latitude was 12
degrees 46 minutes south, whence the foregoing situations may be
considered as determined with some exactness. The island first
seen bore west-south-west five leagues. This, which I have called
the island Direction, will in fair weather always show the
channel, from which it bears due west, and may be seen as soon as
the reefs from a ship's masthead: it lies in the latitude of 12
degrees 51 minutes south. These however are marks too small for a
ship to hit unless it can hereafter be ascertained that passages
through the reef are numerous along the coast which I am inclined
to think they are, in which case there would be little risk even
if the wind was directly on the shore.</p>
<p>My longitude made by dead reckoning from the island Tofoa to
our passage through the reef is 40 degrees 10 minutes west.
Providential channel, I imagine, must lie very nearly under the
same meridian with our passage, by which it appears we had
out-run our reckoning 1 degree 9 minutes.</p>
<p>We now returned God thanks for his gracious protection, and
with much content took our miserable allowance of a 25th of a
pound of bread and a quarter of a pint of water for dinner.</p>
<hr align="center" width="50%">
<p><a name="ch16"></a></p>
<h2>CHAPTER 16.</h2>
<blockquote><b>Progress to the Northward along the Coast of New Holland.
Land on different Islands in search of Supplies.</b></blockquote>
<p>May 1789.</p>
<p>As we advanced within the reefs the coast began to show itself
very distinctly in a variety of high and low land, some parts of
which were covered with wood. In our way towards the shore we
fell in with a point of a reef which is connected with that
towards the sea, and here we came to a grapnel and tried to catch
fish but had no success. The island Direction at this time bore
south three or four leagues. Two islands lay about four miles to
the west by north, and appeared eligible for a resting-place, if
for nothing more; but on our approach to the nearest island it
proved to be only a heap of stones, and its size too
inconsiderable to shelter the boat. We therefore proceeded to the
next, which was close to it and towards the main. On the
north-west side of this I found a bay and a fine sandy point to
land at. Our distance was about a quarter of a mile from a
projecting part of the main, which bore from south-west by south
to north-north-west three-quarters west. We landed to examine if
there were any signs of the natives being near us: we saw some
old fireplaces but nothing to make me apprehend that this would
be an unsafe situation for the night. Everyone was anxious to
find something to eat, and it was soon discovered that there were
oysters on the rocks for the tide was out; but it was nearly dark
and only a few could be gathered. I determined therefore to wait
till the morning, when I should better know how to proceed, and I
directed that one half of our company should sleep on shore and
the other half in the boat. We would gladly have made a fire but,
as we could not accomplish it, we took our rest for the night,
which happily was calm and undisturbed.</p>
<p>Friday 29.</p>
<p>The dawn of day brought greater strength and spirits to us
than I expected for, notwithstanding everyone was very weak,
there appeared strength sufficient remaining to make me conceive
the most favourable hopes of our being able to surmount the
difficulties we might yet have to encounter.</p>
<p>As there were no appearances to make me imagine that any of
the natives were near us I sent out parties in search of
supplies, while others of the people were putting the boat in
order that we might be ready to go to sea, in case any unforeseen
cause should make it necessary. One of the gudgeons of the rudder
had come out in the course of the night and was lost. This, if it
had happened at sea, might have been attended with the most
serious consequences, as the management of the boat could not
have been so nicely preserved as these very heavy seas required.
I had been apprehensive of this accident, and had in some measure
prepared for it, by having grummets fixed on each quarter of the
boat for oars; but our utmost readiness in using them would not
probably have saved us. It appears therefore a providential
circumstance that it happened in a place of safety, and that it
was in our power to remedy the defect; for by great good luck we
found a large staple in the boat, which answered the purpose.</p>
<p>The parties returned, highly rejoiced at having found plenty
of oysters and fresh water. I had also made a fire by the help of
a small magnifying glass and, what was still more fortunate, we
found among the few things which had been thrown into the boat
and saved a piece of brimstone and a tinderbox, so that I secured
fire for the future.</p>
<p>One of the people had been so provident as to bring away with
him from the ship a copper pot: by being in possession of this
article we were enabled to make a proper use of the supply we now
obtained for, with a mixture of bread and a little pork, we made
a stew that might have been relished by people of far more
delicate appetites, and of which each person received a full
pint.</p>
<p>The general complaints of disease among us were a dizziness in
the head, great weakness of the joints, and violent tenesmus,
most of us having had no evacuation by stool since we left the
ship. I had constantly a severe pain at my stomach but none of
our complaints were alarming: on the contrary, everyone retained
marks of strength that, with a mind possessed of a tolerable
share of fortitude, seemed able to bear more fatigue than I
imagined we should have to undergo in our voyage to Timor.</p>
<p>As I would not allow the people to expose themselves to the
heat of the sun, it being near noon, everyone took his allotment
of earth where it was shaded by the bushes for a short sleep.</p>
<p>The oysters which we found grew so fast to the rocks that it
was with difficulty they could be broken off, and at length we
discovered it to be the most expeditious way to open them where
they were fixed. They were of a good size, and well tasted. To
add to this happy circumstance in the hollow of the land there
grew some wire-grass, which indicated a moist situation. On
forcing a stick, about three feet long, into the ground we found
water, and with little trouble dug a well which produced as much
as our occasions required. It was very good, but I could not
determine if it was a spring or not. We were not obliged to make
the well deep for it flowed as fast as we emptied it, which, as
the soil was apparently too loose to retain water from the rains,
renders it probable to be a spring. On the south side of the
island likewise we found a small run of good water.</p>
<p>Besides places where fires had been made there were other
signs of the natives sometimes resorting to this island. I saw
two ill-constructed huts or wigwams which had only one side
loosely covered, and a pointed stick was found, about three feet
long, with a slit in the end of it to sling stones with, the same
as the natives of Van Diemen's land use.</p>
<p>The track of some animal was very discernible and Nelson
agreed with me that it was the kangaroo; but whether these
animals swim over from the mainland, or are brought here by the
natives to breed, it is impossible to determine. The latter is
not improbable as they may be taken with less difficulty in a
confined spot like this than on the continent.</p>
<p>The island is about a league in circuit: it is a high lump of
rocks and stones covered with wood; but the trees are small, the
soil, which is very indifferent and sandy, being barely
sufficient to produce them. The trees that came within our
knowledge were the manchineal and a species of purow; also some
palm trees, the tops of which we cut down, and the soft interior
part or heart of them was so palatable that it made a good
addition to our mess. Nelson discovered some fern-roots which I
thought might be good roasted as a substitute for bread, but in
this I was mistaken: it however was very serviceable in its
natural state to allay thirst, and on that account I directed a
quantity to be collected to take into the boat. Many pieces of
coconut shells and husk were found about the shore, but we could
find no coconut trees, neither did I see any on the main.</p>
<p>I had cautioned the people not to touch any kind of berry or
fruit that they might find; yet they were no sooner out of my
sight than they began to make free with three different kinds
that grew all over the island, eating without any reserve. The
symptoms of having eaten too much began at last to frighten some
of them but, on questioning others who had taken a more moderate
allowance, their minds were a little quieted. The others however
became equally alarmed in their turn, dreading that such symptoms
would come on, and that they were all poisoned, so that they
regarded each other with the strongest marks of apprehension,
uncertain what would be the issue of their imprudence.
Fortunately the fruit proved wholesome and good. One sort grew on
a small delicate kind of vine; they were the size of a large
gooseberry and very like in substance, but had only a sweet
taste; the skin was a pale red, streaked with yellow the long way
of the fruit: it was pleasant and agreeable. Another kind grew on
bushes like that which is called the seaside grape in the West
Indies, but the fruit was very different, being more like
elderberries, and grew in clusters in the same manner. The third
sort was a blackberry; this was not in such plenty as the others
and resembled a bullace, or large kind of sloe, both in size and
taste. When I saw that these fruits were eaten by the birds I no
longer doubted of their being wholesome, and those who had
already tried the experiment, not finding any bad effect, made it
a certainty that we might eat of them without danger.</p>
<p>Wild pigeons, parrots, and other birds were about the summit
of the island but, having no firearms, relief of that kind was
not to be expected unless we should find some unfrequented spot
where the birds were so tame that we might take them with our
hands.</p>
<p>The shore of this island is very rocky except the place at
which we landed, and here I picked up many pieces of
pumice-stone. On the part of the main nearest to us were several
sandy bays which at low water became an extensive rocky flat. The
country had rather a barren appearance except in a few places
where it was covered with wood. A remarkable range of rocks lay a
few miles to the south-west, and a high peaked hill seemed to
terminate the coast towards the sea, with islands to the
southward. A high fair cape showed the direction of the coast to
the north-west about seven leagues distant; and two small isles
lay three or four leagues to the northward of our present
station.</p>
<p>I saw a few bees or wasps and several lizards; and the
blackberry bushes were full of ants nests, webbed like a spider's
but so close and compact as not to admit the rain. A trunk of a
tree about 50 feet long lay on the beach, from which I conclude
that a heavy sea sets in here with a northerly wind.</p>
<p>This day being the anniversary of the restoration of King
Charles the Second, and the name not being inapplicable to our
present situation (for we were restored to fresh life and
strength) I named this Restoration Island; for I thought it
probable that Captain Cook might not have taken notice of it. The
other names which I have presumed to give the different parts of
the coast are meant only to show my route more distinctly.</p>
<p>At noon I observed the latitude of the island to be 12 degrees
39 minutes south, our course having been north 66 degrees west,
distance 18 miles from yesterday noon. The wind was at
east-south-east with very fine weather.</p>
<p>In the afternoon I sent parties out again to gather oysters,
with which and some of the inner part of the palm-top we made
another good stew for supper, each person receiving a full pint
and a half; but I refused bread to this meal for I considered
that our wants might yet be very great, and was intent on saving
our principal support whenever it was in my power. After supper
we again divided and those who were on shore slept by a good
fire.</p>
<p>Saturday 30.</p>
<p>In the morning I discovered a visible alteration in our
company for the better, and I sent them away again to gather
oysters. We had now only two pounds of pork left. This article,
which I could not keep under lock and key as I did the bread, had
been pilfered by some inconsiderate person, but everyone denied
having any knowledge of this act; I therefore resolved to put it
out of their power for the future by sharing what remained for
our dinner. While the party was out picking up oysters I got the
boat in readiness for sea, and filled all our water vessels,
which amounted to nearly 60 gallons.</p>
<p>The party being returned, dinner was soon ready, which was as
plentiful a meal as the supper on the preceding evening, and with
the pork I gave an allowance of bread. As it was not yet noon I
sent the people once more to gather oysters for a sea store,
recommending to them to be as diligent as possible for that I was
determined to sail in the afternoon.</p>
<p>At noon I again observed the latitude 12 degrees 39 minutes
south; it was then high-water, the tide had risen three feet, but
I could not be certain from whence the flood came. I deduce the
time of high-water at full and change to be ten minutes past
seven in the morning.</p>
<p>Early in the afternoon the people returned with the few
oysters that they had collected and everything was put into the
boat. I then examined the quantity of bread remaining and found
38 days allowance, according to the last mode of issuing a 25th
of a pound at breakfast and at dinner.</p>
<p>Fair weather and moderate breezes at east-south-east and
south-east.</p>
<p>Being ready for sea I directed every person to attend prayers.
At four o'clock we were preparing to embark when about twenty of
the natives appeared, running and hallooing to us, on the
opposite shore. They were each armed with a spear or lance and a
short weapon which they carried in their left hand: they made
signs for us to come to them. On the top of the hills we saw the
heads of many more: whether these were their wives and children
or others who waited for our landing, meaning not to show
themselves lest we might be intimidated, I cannot say but, as I
found we were discovered to be on the coast, I thought it prudent
to make the best of our way for fear of being pursued by canoes,
though, from the accounts of Captain Cook, the chance was that
there were very few if any of consequence on any part of the
coast. I passed these people as near as I could with safety: they
were naked and apparently black, and their hair or wool bushy and
short.</p>
<p>I directed my course within two small islands that lie to the
north of Restoration Island, passing between them and the
mainland towards Fair Cape with a strong tide in my favour, so
that I was abreast of it by eight o'clock. The coast we passed
was high and woody. As I could see no land without Fair Cape I
concluded that the coast inclined to the north-west and
west-north-west: I therefore steered more towards the west; but
by eleven o'clock at night we met with low land which inclined to
the north-east, and at three o'clock in the morning I found that
we were embayed, which obliged us to stand back for a short time
to the southward.</p>
<p>Sunday 31.</p>
<p>At daybreak I was exceedingly surprised to find the appearance
of the country entirely changed, as if in the course of the night
we had been transported to another part of the world; for we had
now a low sandy coast in view, with very little verdure or
anything to indicate that it was at all habitable to a human
being except a few patches of small trees or brushwood.</p>
<p>Many small islands were in sight to the north-east about six
miles distant. The eastern part of the main bore north four
miles, and Fair Cape south-south-east five or six leagues. I took
the channel between the nearest island and the mainland, which
were about one mile apart, leaving all the islands on the
starboard side. Some of these were very pretty spots, covered
with wood and well situated for fishing: large shoals of fish
were about us but we could not catch any. In passing this strait
we saw another party of Indians, seven in number, running towards
us, shouting and making signs for us to land. Some of them waved
green branches of the bushes which were near them as a token of
friendship; but some of their other motions were less friendly. A
little farther off we saw a larger party who likewise came
towards us. I therefore determined not to land though I much
wished to have had some intercourse with these people.
Nevertheless I laid the boat close to the rocks and beckoned to
them to approach but none of them would come within 200 yards of
us. They were armed in the same manner as the people we had seen
from Restoration Island; they were stark naked, their colour
black, with short bushy hair or wool, and in their appearance
were similar to them in every respect. An island of a good height
bore north half west four miles from us, at which I resolved to
land and from thence to take a look at the coast. At this isle we
arrived about eight o'clock in the morning. The shore was rocky
but the water was smooth and we landed without difficulty. I sent
two parties out, one to the northward and the other to the
southward, to seek for supplies, and others I ordered to stay by
the boat. On this occasion fatigue and weakness so far got the
better of their sense of duty that some of the people expressed
their discontent at having worked harder than their companions,
and declared that they would rather be without their dinner than
go in search of it. One person in particular went so far as to
tell me, with a mutinous look, that he was as good a man as
myself. It was not possible for me to judge where this might have
an end if not stopped in time, therefore to prevent such disputes
in future I determined either to preserve my command or die in
the attempt and, seizing a cutlass, I ordered him to take hold of
another and defend himself, on which he called out that I was
going to kill him and immediately made concessions. I did not
allow this to interfere further with the harmony of the boat's
crew and everything soon became quiet.</p>
<p>The parties continued collecting what they could find, which
were some fine oysters and clams and a few small dog-fish that
were caught in the holes of the rocks. We also found some
rainwater in the hollow of the rocks on the north part of the
island, so that of this essential article we were again so
fortunate as to obtain a full supply.</p>
<p>After regulating the mode of proceeding I walked to the
highest part of the island to consider our route for the night.
To my surprise no more of the mainland could be seen here than
from below, the northernmost part in sight, which was full of
sandhills bearing west by north about three leagues. Except the
isles to the east-south-east and south that we had passed I could
only discover a small key north-west by north. As this was
considerably farther from the main than the spot on which we were
at present I judged it would be a more secure resting-place for
the night, for here we were liable to an attack, if the Indians
had canoes, as they undoubtedly must have observed our landing.
My mind being made up on this point I returned after taking a
particular look at the island we were on, which I found only to
produce a few bushes and some coarse grass, the extent of the
whole not being two miles in circuit. On the north side in a
sandy bay I saw an old canoe about 33 feet long, lying bottom
upwards and half buried in the beach. It was made of three
pieces, the bottom entire, to which the sides were sewed in the
common way. It had a sharp projecting prow rudely carved in
resemblance of the head of a fish; the extreme breadth was about
three feet and I imagine it was capable of carrying 20 men. The
discovery of so large a canoe confirmed me in the purpose of
seeking a more retired place for our night's lodging.</p>
<p>At noon the parties were all returned but had found much
difficulty in gathering the oysters from their close adherence to
the rocks, and the clams were scarce: I therefore saw that it
would be of little use to remain longer in this place, as we
should not be able to collect more than we could eat. I named
this Sunday Island: it lies north by west three-quarters west
from Restoration Island; the latitude by a good observation 11
degrees 58 minutes south.</p>
<p>We had a fresh breeze at south-east by south with fair
weather. At two o'clock in the afternoon we dined, each person
having a full pint and a half of stewed oysters and clams,
thickened with small beans which Nelson informed me were a
species of Dolichos. Having eaten heartily and completed our
water I waited to determine the time of high-water, which I found
to be at three o'clock, and the rise of the tide about five feet.
According to this it is high-water on the full and change at 19
minutes past 9 in the morning: I observed the flood to come from
the southward, though at Restoration Island I thought it came
from the northward. I think Captain Cook mentions that he found
great irregularity in the set of the flood on this coast.</p>
<p>We steered for the key seen in the north-west by north where
we arrived just at dark, but found it so surrounded by a reef of
rocks that I could not land without danger of staving the boat;
and on that account we came to a grapnel for the night.</p>
<p>Monday June 1.</p>
<p>At dawn of day we got on shore and tracked the boat into
shelter for, the wind blowing fresh without and the ground being
rocky, it was not safe to trust her at a grapnel lest she should
be blown to sea: I was therefore obliged to let her ground in the
course of the ebb. From appearances I expected that if we
remained till night we should meet with turtle as we discovered
recent tracks of them. Innumerable birds of a noddy kind made
this island their resting-place; so that we had reason to flatter
ourselves with hopes of getting supplies in greater abundance
than it had hitherto been in our power. Our situation was at
least four leagues distant from the main. We were on the
north-westernmost of four small keys which were surrounded by a
reef of rocks connected by sandbanks except between the two
northernmost, and there likewise it was dry at low water, the
whole forming a lagoon island into which the tide flowed: at this
entrance I kept the boat.</p>
<p>As usual I sent parties away in search of supplies but, to our
great disappointment, we could only get a few clams and some
dolichos: with these and the oysters we had brought from Sunday
Island I made up a mess for dinner with the addition of a small
quantity of bread.</p>
<p>Towards noon Nelson and some others who had been to the
easternmost key returned, but Nelson was in so weak a condition
that he was obliged to be supported by two men. His complaint was
a violent heat in his bowels, a loss of sight, much drought, and
an inability to walk. This I found was occasioned by his being
unable to support the heat of the sun and that, when he was
fatigued and faint, instead of retiring into the shade to rest he
had continued to attempt more than his strength was equal to. I
was glad to find that he had no fever; and it was now that the
little wine which I had so carefully saved became of real use. I
gave it in very small quantities with some pieces of bread soaked
in it; and he soon began to recover. The boatswain and carpenter
also were ill and complained of headache and sickness of the
stomach. Others who had not had any evacuation by stool became
shockingly distressed with the tenesmus so that there were but
few without complaints. An idea prevailed that the sickness of
the boatswain and carpenter was occasioned by eating the
dolichos. Myself however and some others who had taken the same
food felt no inconvenience; but the truth was that many of the
people had eaten a large quantity of them raw, and Nelson
informed me that they were constantly teasing him whenever a
berry was found to know if it was good to eat; so that it would
not have been surprising if many of them had been really
poisoned.</p>
<p>Our dinner was not so well relished as at Sunday Island
because we had mixed the dolichos with our stew. The oysters and
soup however were eaten by everyone except Nelson whom I fed with
a few small pieces of bread soaked in half a glass of wine, and
he continued to mend.</p>
<p>In my walk round the island I found several coconut shells,
the remains of an old wigwam, and the backs of two turtles, but
no sign of any quadruped. One of the people found three seafowl's
eggs.</p>
<p>As is common on such spots the soil is little other than sand,
yet it produced small toa-trees and some others that we were not
acquainted with. There were fish in the lagoon, but we could not
catch any. Our wants therefore were not likely to be supplied
here, not even with water for our daily expense: nevertheless I
determined to wait till the morning, that we might try our
success in the night for turtle and birds. A quiet night's rest
also, I conceived, would be of essential service to those who
were unwell.</p>
<p>The wigwam and turtle shell were proofs that the natives at
times visited this place, and that they had canoes the remains of
the large canoe that we saw at Sunday Island left no room to
doubt: but I did not apprehend that we ran any risk by remaining
here a short time. I directed our fire however to be made in the
thicket that we might not be discovered by its light.</p>
<p>At noon I observed the latitude of this island to be 11
degrees 47 minutes south. The mainland extended towards the
north-west and was full of white sandhills: another small island
lay within us, bearing west by north one quarter north three
leagues distant. Our situation being very low we could see
nothing of the reef towards the sea.</p>
<p>The afternoon was advantageously spent in sleep. There were
however a few not disposed to it, and those were employed in
dressing some clams to take with us for the next day's dinner:
others we cut up in slices to dry, which I knew was the most
valuable supply we could find here, but they were very
scarce.</p>
<p>Towards evening I cautioned everyone against making too large
a fire or suffering it after dark to blaze up. Mr. Samuel and Mr.
Peckover had superintendence of this business, while I was
strolling about the beach to observe if I thought it could be
seen from the main. I was just satisfied that it could not when
on a sudden the island appeared all in a blaze that might have
been discerned at a much more considerable distance. I ran to
learn the cause and found that it was occasioned by the
imprudence and obstinacy of one of the party who in my absence
had insisted on having a fire to himself, in making which the
flames caught the neighbouring grass and rapidly spread. This
misconduct might have produced very serious consequences by
discovering our situation to the natives for, if they had
attacked us, we had neither arms nor strength to oppose an enemy.
Thus the relief which I expected from a little sleep was totally
lost and I anxiously waited for the flowing of the tide that we
might proceed to sea.</p>
<p>It was high-water at half-past five this evening whence I
deduced the time on the full and change of the moon to be 58 past
10 in the morning: the rise was nearly five feet. I could not
observe the set of the flood but imagined it to come from the
southward, and that I was mistaken at Restoration Island as I
found the time of high-water gradually later the more we advanced
to the northward.</p>
<p>At Restoration Island high-water full and change : 7 hours 10.
Sunday Island high-water full and change : 9 hours 19. Here
high-water full and change : 10 hours 58.</p>
<p>After eight o'clock Mr. Samuel and Mr. Peckover went out to
watch for turtle and three men went to the east key to endeavour
to catch birds. All the others, complaining of being sick, took
their rest, except Mr. Hayward and Mr. Elphinston whom I directed
to keep watch. About midnight the bird party returned with only
twelve noddies, birds which I have already described to be about
the size of pigeons: but if it had not been for the folly and
obstinacy of one of the party, who separated from the other two
and disturbed the birds, they might have caught a great number. I
was so much provoked at my plans being thus defeated that I gave
this offender a good beating.* I now went in search of the
turtling party who had taken great pains but without success.
This did not surprise me as it was not to be expected that turtle
would come near us after the noise which had been made at the
beginning of the evening in extinguishing the fire. I therefore
desired them to come back, but they requested to stay a little
longer as they still hoped to find some before daylight: however
they returned by three o'clock without any reward for their
labour.</p>
<blockquote>(*Footnote. Robert Lamb. This man when he came to Java
acknowledged he had eaten nine birds raw after he separated from
his two companions.)</blockquote>
<p>Tuesday 2.</p>
<p>The birds we half dressed that they might keep the better: and
these with a few clams made the whole of the supply procured
here. I tied a few gilt buttons and some pieces of iron to a tree
for any of the natives that might come after us and, finding my
invalids much better for their night's rest, we embarked and
departed by dawn of day. Wind at south-east; course to the north
by west.</p>
<p>When we had run two leagues to the northward the sea suddenly
became rough which, not having before experienced since we were
within the reefs, I concluded to be occasioned by an open channel
to the ocean. Soon afterwards we met with a large shoal on which
were two sandy keys; between these and two others, four miles to
the west, I passed on to the northward, the sea still continuing
to be rough.</p>
<p>Towards noon I fell in with six other keys, most of which
produced some small trees and brushwood. These formed a pleasing
contrast with the mainland we had passed which was full of
sandhills. The country continued hilly and the northernmost land,
the same we had seen from the lagoon island, appeared like downs,
sloping towards the sea. Nearly abreast of us was a flat-topped
hill which on account of its shape I called Pudding-pan hill; and
a little to the northward were two other hills which we called
the Paps; and here was a small tract of country without sand, the
eastern part of which forms a cape whence the coast inclines to
the north-west by north.</p>
<p>At noon I observed in the latitude of 11 degrees 18 minutes
south the cape bearing west distant ten miles. Five small keys
bore from north-east to south-east, the nearest of them about two
miles distant, and a low sandy key between us and the cape bore
west distant four miles. My course from the lagoon island had
been north half west distant 30 miles.</p>
<p>I am sorry it was not in my power to obtain a sufficient
knowledge of the depth of water but in our situation nothing
could be undertaken that might have occasioned delay. It may
however be understood that to the best of my judgment from
appearances a ship may pass wherever I have omitted to represent
danger.</p>
<p>I divided six birds and issued one 25th of a pound of bread
with half a pint of water to each person for dinner, and I gave
half a glass of wine to Nelson, who was now so far recovered as
to require no other indulgence.</p>
<p>The gunner when he left the ship brought his watch with him,
by which we had regulated out time till today, when unfortunately
it stopped; so that noon, sunrise, and sunset, are the only parts
of the 24 hours of which from henceforward I can speak with
certainty as to time.</p>
<p>The wind blew fresh from the south-south-east and south-east
all the afternoon with fair weather. As we stood to the north by
west we found more sea, which I attributed to our receiving less
shelter from the reefs to the eastward: it is probable they did
not extend so far north as this; at least it may be concluded
that there is not a continued barrier to prevent shipping having
access to the shore. I observed that the stream set to the
north-west, which I considered to be the flood. In some places
along the coast we saw patches of wood. At five o'clock, steering
to the north-west, we passed a large and fair inlet into which I
imagine there is a safe and commodious entrance; it lies in
latitude 11 degrees south. About three leagues to the northward
of this is an island, at which we arrived about sunset, and took
shelter for the night under a sandy point which was the only part
we could land at. This being rather a wild situation I thought it
best to sleep in the boat: nevertheless I sent a party away to
see if anything could be got, but they returned without success.
They saw a great number of turtle bones and shells where the
natives had been feasting, and their last visit seemed to be of
late date. The island was covered with wood, but in other
respects it was a lump of rocks.</p>
<p>Wednesday 3.</p>
<p>We lay at a grapnel till daylight with a very fresh gale and
cloudy weather. The main bore from south-east by south to
north-north-west half west three leagues, and a mountainous
island with a flat top, north by west four or five leagues,
between which and the mainland were several other islands. The
spot we were at, which I call Turtle Island, lies in latitude by
account 10 degrees 52 minutes south and 42 miles west from
Restoration Island. Abreast of it the coast has the appearance of
a sandy desert, but improves about three leagues farther to the
northward where it terminates in a point, near to which are many
small islands. I sailed between these islands where I found no
bottom at twelve fathoms; the high mountainous island with a flat
top and four rocks to the south-east of it, that I call the
Brothers, being on my starboard hand. Soon after an extensive
opening appeared in the mainland, in which were a number of high
islands. I called this the Bay of Islands. We continued steering
to the north-west. Several islands and keys were in sight to the
northward: the most northerly island was mountainous, having on
it a very high round hill, and a smaller was remarkable for a
single peaked hill.</p>
<p>The coast to the northward and westward of the Bay of Islands
is high and woody and has a broken appearance, with many islands
close to it, among which there are fine bays and convenient
places for shipping. The northernmost of these islands I call
Wednesday Island: to the north-west of this we fell in with a
large reef which I believe joins a number of keys that were in
sight from the north-west to the east-north-east. We therefore
stood to the south-west half a league when it was noon, and I had
a good observation of the latitude in 10 degrees 31 minutes
south. Wednesday Island bore east by south five miles; the
westernmost land in sight south-west two or three leagues; the
islands to the northward from north-west by west to north-east,
and the reef from west to north-east distant one mile. I was now
tolerably certain that we should be clear of New Holland in the
afternoon.</p>
<p>I know not how far this reef extends. It may be a continuation
or a detached part of the range of shoals that surround the
coast. I believe the mountainous islands to be separate from the
shoals, and have no doubt that near them may be found good
passages for ships. But I rather recommend to those who are to
pass this strait from the eastward to take their direction from
the coast of New Guinea: yet I likewise think that a ship coming
from the southward will find a fair strait in the latitude of 10
degrees south. I much wished to have ascertained this point but
in our distressful situation any increase of fatigue or loss of
time might have been attended with the most fatal consequences. I
therefore determined to pass on without delay.</p>
<p>As an addition to our dinner of bread and water I served to
each person six oysters.</p>
<p>At two o'clock in the afternoon as we were steering to the
south-west towards the westernmost part of the land in sight we
fell in with some large sandbanks that run off from the coast: I
therefore called this Shoal Cape. We were obliged to steer to the
northward again till we got round the shoals, when I directed the
course to the west.</p>
<p>At four o'clock the westernmost of the islands to the
northward bore north four leagues; Wednesday Island east by north
five leagues, and shoal cape south-east by east two leagues. A
small island was seen bearing west, at which we arrived before
dark and found that it was only a rock where boobies resort, for
which reason I called it Booby Island. Here terminated the rocks
and shoals of the north part of New Holland for except Booby
Island no land was seen to the westward of south after three
o'clock this afternoon.</p>
<p>I find that Booby island was seen by Captain Cook and, by a
remarkable coincidence of ideas, received from him the same name,
but I cannot with certainty reconcile the situation of some parts
of the coast that I have seen to his survey. I ascribe this to
the various forms in which land appears when seen from the
different heights of a ship and a boat. The chart I have given is
by no means meant to supersede that made by Captain Cook, who had
better opportunities than I had and was in every respect properly
provided for surveying. The intention of mine is chiefly to
render this narrative more intelligible, and to show in what
manner the coast appeared to me from an open boat. I have little
doubt but that the opening which I named the Bay of Islands is
Endeavour Straits; and that our track was to the northward of
Prince of Wales' Isles. Perhaps, by those who shall hereafter
navigate these seas, more advantage may be derived from the
possession of both our charts than from either of them
singly.</p>
<p align="center"><a name="bligh-07"></a><img alt="" src=
"images/bligh-07.jpg"><br>
<b>NE Coast of New Holland.<br>
a a Track of Lt. Bligh in the Bounty's Launch.</b></p>
<hr align="center" width="50%">
<p><a name="ch17"></a></p>
<h2>CHAPTER 17.</h2>
<blockquote><b>Passage from New Holland to the Island Timor.<br>
Arrive at Coupang. Reception there.</b></blockquote>
<p>June 1789.</p>
<p>Wednesday 3.</p>
<p>At eight o'clock in the evening we once more launched into the
open ocean. Miserable as our situation was in every respect I was
secretly surprised to see that it did not appear to affect anyone
so strongly as myself; on the contrary it seemed as if they had
embarked on a voyage to Timor in a vessel sufficiently calculated
for safety and convenience. So much confidence gave me great
pleasure and I may venture to assert that to this cause our
preservation is chiefly to be attributed.</p>
<p>I encouraged everyone with hopes that eight or ten days would
bring us to a land of safety; and, after praying to God for a
continuance of his most gracious protection, I served an
allowance of water for supper and directed our course to the
west-south-west to counteract the southerly winds in case they
should blow strong.</p>
<p>We had been just six days on the coast of New Holland in the
course of which we found oysters, a few clams, some birds, and
water. But perhaps a benefit nearly equal to this we received by
having been relieved from the fatigue of being constantly in the
boat and enjoying good rest at night. These advantages certainly
preserved our lives and, small as the supply was, I am very
sensible how much it alleviated our distresses. By this time
nature must have sunk under the extremes of hunger and fatigue.
Some would have ceased to struggle for a life that only promised
wretchedness and misery; and others, though possessed of more
bodily strength, must soon have followed their unfortunate
companions. Even in our present situation we were most deplorable
objects; but the hopes of a speedy relief kept up our spirits.
For my own part, incredible as it may appear, I felt neither
extreme hunger nor thirst. My allowance contented me, knowing
that I could have no more.</p>
<p>Thursday 4.</p>
<p>I served one 25th of a pound of bread and an allowance of
water for breakfast and the same for dinner with an addition of
six oysters to each person. At noon latitude observed 10 degrees
48 minutes south; course since yesterday noon south 81 degrees
west, distance 111 miles; longitude by account from Shoal Cape 1
degree 45 minutes west. A strong tradewind at east-south-east
with fair weather.</p>
<p>This day we saw a number of water-snakes that were ringed
yellow and black, and towards noon we passed a great deal of
rock-weed. Though the weather was fair we were constantly
shipping water, which kept two men always employed to bale the
boat.</p>
<p>Friday 5.</p>
<p>At noon I observed in latitude 10 degrees 45 minutes south;
our course since yesterday west one quarter north, 108 miles;
longitude made 3 degrees 35 minutes west. Six oysters were, as
yesterday, served to each man, in addition to the usual allowance
of bread and water.</p>
<p>In the evening a few boobies came about us, one of which I
caught with my hand. The blood was divided among three of the men
who were weakest, but the bird I ordered to be kept for our
dinner the next day. Served a quarter of a pint of water for
supper, and to some who were most in need half a pint. In the
course of the night, being constantly wet with the sea, we
suffered much cold and shiverings.</p>
<p>Saturday 6.</p>
<p>At daylight I found that some of the clams which had been hung
up to dry for sea-store were stolen; but everyone solemnly denied
having any knowledge of it. This forenoon we saw a gannet, a
sand-lark and some water-snakes which in general were from two or
three feet long.</p>
<p>The usual allowance of bread and water was served for
breakfast, and the same for dinner with the bird, which I
distributed in the usual way, of Who shall have this? I proposed
to make Timor about the latitude of 9 degrees 30 minutes south,
or 10 degrees south. At noon I observed the latitude to be 10
degrees 19 minutes south; course north 77 degrees west, distance
117 miles; longitude made from the Shoal Cape, the north part of
New Holland, 5 degrees 31 minutes west.</p>
<p>In the afternoon I took an opportunity of examining our store
of bread, and found remaining 19 days allowance, at the former
rate of serving one 25th of a pound three times a day: therefore,
as I saw every prospect of a quick passage, I again ventured to
grant an allowance for supper, agreeable to my promise at the
time it was discontinued.</p>
<p>Sunday 7.</p>
<p>We passed the night miserably wet and cold and in the morning
I heard heavy complaints. The sea was high and breaking over us.
I could only afford the allowance of bread and water for
breakfast, but for dinner I gave out an ounce of dried clams to
each person, which was all that remained.</p>
<p>At noon I altered the course to the west-north-west to keep
more from the sea, as the wind blew strong. Latitude observed 9
degrees 31 minutes south; course north 57 degrees west, distance
88 miles; longitude made 6 degrees 46 minutes west.</p>
<p>The sea ran very high all this day and we had frequent showers
of rain so that we were continually wet and suffered much cold in
the night. Mr. Ledward the surgeon, and Lawrence Lebogue, an old
hardy seaman, appeared to be giving way very fast. I could only
assist them by a teaspoonful or two of wine which I had carefully
saved, expecting such a melancholy necessity.</p>
<p>Monday 8.</p>
<p>Wind at south-east. The weather was more moderate than it had
been for some days past. A few gannets were seen. At noon I
observed in 8 degrees 45 minutes south; course west-north-west
one quarter west, 106 miles; longitude made 8 degrees 23 minutes
west. The sea being smooth I steered west by south.</p>
<p>At four in the afternoon we caught a small dolphin, which was
the first relief of the kind that we obtained. I issued about two
ounces to each person, including the offals, and saved the
remainder for dinner the next day. Towards evening the wind
freshened and it blew strong all night, so that we shipped much
water and suffered greatly from the wet and cold.</p>
<p>Tuesday 9.</p>
<p>At daylight as usual I heard much complaining, which my own
feelings convinced me was too well founded. I gave the surgeon
the Lebogue a little wine but I could afford them no farther
relief except encouraging them with hopes that a very few days
longer, at our present fine rate of sailing, would bring us to
Timor.</p>
<p>Gannets, boobies, men of war and tropic birds, were constantly
about us. Served the usual allowance of bread and water and at
noon we dined on the remains of the dolphin, which amounted to
about an ounce per man. I observed the latitude to be 9 degrees 9
minutes south; longitude made 10 degrees 8 minutes west; course
since yesterday noon south 76 degrees west; distance 107
miles.</p>
<p>This afternoon I suffered great sickness from the nature of
part of the stomach of the fish which had fallen to my share at
dinner. At sunset served an allowance of bread and water for
supper.</p>
<p>Wednesday 10.</p>
<p>In the morning after a very comfortless night there was a
visible alteration for the worse in many of the people which gave
me great apprehensions. An extreme weakness, swelled legs, hollow
and ghastly countenances, a more than common inclination to
sleep, with an apparent debility of understanding, seemed to me
the melancholy presages of an approaching dissolution. The
surgeon and Lebogue, in particular, were most miserable objects.
I occasionally gave them a few teaspoonfuls of wine out of the
little that remained, which greatly assisted them. The hopes of
being able to accomplish the voyage was our principal support.
The boatswain very innocently told me that he really thought I
looked worse than anyone in the boat. The simplicity with which
he uttered such an opinion amused me and I returned him a better
compliment.</p>
<p>Our latitude at noon was 9 degrees 16 minutes south. Longitude
from the north part of New Holland 12 degrees 1 minute west.
Course since yesterday noon west half south 111 miles. Birds and
rock-weed showed that we were not far from land, but I expected
such signs here as there are many islands between the east part
of Timor and New Guinea. The night was more moderate than the
last.</p>
<p>Thursday 11.</p>
<p>Everyone received the customary allowance of bread and water,
and an extra allowance of water was given to those who were most
in need. At noon I observed in latitude 9 degrees 41 minutes
south; course 77 degrees west, distance 109 miles; longitude made
13 degrees 49 minutes west. I had little doubt of having now
passed the meridian of the eastern part of Timor which is laid
down in 128 degrees east. This diffused universal joy and
satisfaction.</p>
<p>In the afternoon we saw gannets and many other birds, and at
sunset we kept a very anxious lookout. In the evening we caught a
booby which I reserved for our dinner the next day.</p>
<p>Friday 12.</p>
<p>At three in the morning, with an excess of joy, we discovered
Timor bearing from west-south-west to west-north-west, and I
hauled on a wind to the north-north-east till daylight, when the
land bore from south-west by south to north-east by north. Our
distance from the shore two leagues.</p>
<p>It is not possible for me to describe the pleasure which the
blessing of the sight of this land diffused among us. It appeared
scarce credible to ourselves that, in an open boat and so poorly
provided, we should have been able to reach the coast of Timor in
forty-one days after leaving Tofoa, having in that time run, by
our log, a distance of 3618 miles; and that, notwithstanding our
extreme distress, no one should have perished in the voyage.</p>
<p>I have already mentioned that I knew not where the Dutch
settlement was situated but I had a faint idea that it was at the
south-west part of the island. I therefore, after daylight, bore
away alongshore to the south-south-west, which I was the more
readily induced to do as the wind would not suffer us to go
towards the north-east without great loss of time.</p>
<p>The day gave us a most agreeable prospect of the land which
was interspersed with woods and lawns; the interior part
mountainous, but the shore low. Towards noon the coast became
higher with some remarkable headlands. We were greatly delighted
with the general look of the country which exhibited many
cultivated spots and beautiful situations; but we could only see
a few small huts whence I concluded that no European resided in
this part of the island. Much sea ran on the shore which made
landing impracticable. At noon we were abreast of a high
headland; the extremes of the land bore south-west half west, and
north-north-east half east; our distance offshore being three
miles; latitude by observation 9 degrees 59 minutes south; and my
longitude by dead reckoning from the north part of New Holland 15
degrees 6 minutes west.</p>
<p>With the usual allowance of bread and water for dinner I
divided the bird we had caught the night before, and to the
surgeon and Lebogue I gave a little wine.</p>
<p>The wind blew fresh at east and east-south-east with very hazy
weather. During the afternoon we continued our course along a low
shore covered with innumerable palm-trees, called the Fan Palm
from the leaf spreading like a fan; but here we saw no signs of
cultivation, nor had the country so fine an appearance as to the
eastward. This however was only a small tract, for by sunset it
improved again and I saw several great smokes where the
inhabitants were clearing and cultivating their grounds. We had
now run 25 miles to the west-south-west since noon and were west
five miles from a low point which, in the afternoon, I imagined
had been the southernmost land, and here the coast formed a deep
bend with low land in the bight that appeared like islands. The
west shore was high; but from this part of the coast to the high
cape which we were abreast of at noon the shore is low and I
believe shoal. I particularly remark this situation because here
the very high ridge of mountains that run from the east end of
the island, terminate, and the appearance of the country changes
for the worse.</p>
<p>That we might not run past any settlement in the night I
determined to preserve my station till the morning and therefore
brought to under a close-reefed foresail. We were here in shoal
water, our distance from the shore being half a league, the
westernmost land in sight bearing west-south-west half west.
Served bread and water for supper and, the boat lying to very
well, all but the officer of the watch endeavoured to get a
little sleep.</p>
<p>Saturday 13.</p>
<p>At two in the morning we wore and stood in shore till daylight
when I found we had drifted during the night about three leagues
to the west-south-west, the southernmost land in sight bearing
west. On examining the coast and not seeing any sign of a
settlement we bore away to the westward having a strong gale
against a weather current which occasioned much sea. The shore
was high and covered with wood, but we did not run far before low
land again formed the coast, the points of which opening at west
I once more fancied we were on the south part of the island; but
at ten o'clock we found the coast again inclining towards the
south, part of it bearing west-south-west half west. At the same
time high land appeared in the south-west; but the weather was so
hazy that it was doubtful whether the two lands were separated,
the opening only extending one point of the compass. For this
reason I stood towards the outer land and found it to be the
island Roti.</p>
<p>I returned to the shore we had left and brought to a grapnel
in a sandy bay that I might more conveniently calculate my
situation. In this place we saw several smokes where the natives
were clearing their grounds. During the little time we remained
here the master and carpenter very much importuned me to let them
go in search of supplies; to which at length I assented but, not
finding any other person willing to be of their party, they did
not choose to quit the boat. I stopped here no longer than for
the purpose just mentioned, and we continued steering alongshore.
We had a view of a beautiful-looking country as if formed by art
into lawns and parks. The coast is low and covered with woods in
which are innumerable fan palm-trees that look like coconut
walks. The interior part is high land but very different from the
more eastern parts of the island where it is exceedingly
mountainous and to appearance the soil better.</p>
<p>At noon the island Roti bore south-west by west seven leagues.
I had no observation for the latitude but by account we were in
10 degrees 12 minutes south; our course since yesterday noon
being south 77 degrees west 54 miles. The usual allowance of
bread and water was served for breakfast and dinner, and to the
surgeon and Lebogue I continued to give wine.</p>
<p>We had a strong breeze at east-south-east with hazy weather
all the afternoon. At two o'clock, having run through a very
dangerous breaking sea, the cause of which I attributed to be a
strong tide setting to windward, and shoal water, we discovered a
spacious bay or sound with a fair entrance about two or three
miles wide. I now conceived hopes that our voyage was nearly at
an end as no place could appear more eligible for shipping or
more likely to be chosen for a European settlement: I therefore
came to a grapnel near the east side of the entrance in a small
sandy bay where we saw a hut, a dog, and some cattle, and I
immediately sent the boatswain and gunner away to the hut to
discover the inhabitants.</p>
<p>The south-west point of the entrance bore west half south
three miles; the south-east point south by west three-quarters of
a mile; and the island Roti from south by west one quarter west
to south-west one quarter west about five leagues.</p>
<p>While we lay here I found the ebb came from the northward, and
before our departure the falling of the tide discovered to us a
reef of rocks about two cables length from the shore, the whole
being covered at high-water renders it dangerous. On the opposite
shore also appeared very high breakers; but there is nevertheless
plenty of room and certainly a safe channel for a first-rate man
of war.</p>
<p>The bay or sound within, seemed to be of a considerable
extent, the northern part being about five leagues distant. Here
the land made in moderate risings joined by lower grounds. But
the island Roti to the southward is the best mark by which to
know this place.</p>
<p>I had just time to make these remarks when I saw the boatswain
and gunner returning with some of the natives: I therefore no
longer doubted of our success and that our expectations would be
fully gratified. They brought five Indians and informed me that
they had found two families where the women treated them with
European politeness. From these people I learned that the
governor resided at a place called Coupang which was some
distance to the north-east. I made signs for one of them to go in
the boat and show us the way to Coupang, intimating that I would
pay him for his trouble: the man readily complied and came into
the boat.</p>
<p>These people were of a dark tawny colour, had long black hair,
and chewed a great deal of betel. Their dress was a square piece
of cloth round the hips in the folds of which was stuck a large
knife; a handkerchief wrapped round the head, and another hanging
by the four corners from the shoulders, which served as a bag for
their betel equipage. They brought us a few pieces of dried
turtle and some ears of Indian corn. This last was the most
welcome; for the turtle was so hard that it could not be eaten
without being first soaked in hot water. They offered to bring us
some other refreshments if I would wait, but as the pilot was
willing I determined to push on. It was about half an hour past
four when we sailed.</p>
<p>By direction of the pilot we kept close to the east shore
under all our sail; but as night came on the wind died away and
we were obliged to try at the oars which I was surprised to see
we could use with some effect. At ten o'clock, finding we
advanced but slowly, I came to a grapnel and for the first time I
issued double allowance of bread and a little wine to each
person.</p>
<p>Sunday 14.</p>
<p>At one o'clock in the morning, after the most happy and sweet
sleep that ever men enjoyed, we weighed and continued to keep the
east shore on board in very smooth water; when at last I found we
were again open to the sea, the whole of the land to the westward
that we had passed being an island which the pilot called Pulo
Samow. The northern entrance of this channel is about a mile and
a half or two miles wide and I had no ground at ten fathoms.</p>
<p>The report of two cannon that were fired gave new life to
everyone; and soon after we discovered two square-rigged vessels
and a cutter at anchor to the eastward. We endeavoured to work to
windward but were obliged to take to our oars again, having lost
ground on each tack. We kept close to the shore and continued
rowing till four o'clock when I brought to a grapnel and gave
another allowance of bread and wine to all hands. As soon as we
had rested a little we weighed again, and rowed till near
daylight when we came to a grapnel off a small fort and town
which the pilot told me was Coupang.</p>
<p>Among the things which the boatswain had thrown into the boat
before we left the ship was a bundle of signal flags that had
been used by the boats to show the depth of water in sounding;
with these we had in the course of the passage made a small jack
which I now hoisted in the main shrouds as a signal of distress,
for I did not think proper to land without leave.</p>
<p>Soon after daybreak a soldier hailed us to land, which I
immediately did among a crowd of Indians, and was agreeably
surprised to meet with an English sailor who belonged to one of
the vessels in the road. His captain he told me was the second
person in the town; I therefore desired to be conducted to him as
I was informed the governor was ill and could not then be spoken
with.</p>
<p>Captain Spikerman received me with great humanity. I informed
him of our distressed situation; and requested that care might be
taken of those who were with me without delay. On which he gave
directions for their immediate reception at his own house, and
went himself to the governor to know at what time I could be
permitted to see him, which was fixed to be at eleven
o'clock.</p>
<p>I now desired my people to come on shore which was as much as
some of them could do, being scarce able to walk: they however
were helped to the house and found tea with bread and butter
provided for their breakfast.</p>
<p>The abilities of a painter, perhaps, could seldom have been
displayed to more advantage than in the delineation of the two
groups of figures which at this time presented themselves to each
other. An indifferent spectator would have been at a loss which
most to admire, the eyes of famine sparkling at immediate relief,
or the horror of their preservers at the sight of so many
spectres, whose ghastly countenances, if the cause had been
unknown, would rather have excited terror than pity. Our bodies
were nothing but skin and bones, our limbs were full of sores,
and we were clothed in rags: in this condition, with the tears of
joy and gratitude flowing down our cheeks, the people of Timor
beheld us with a mixture of horror, surprise, and pity.</p>
<p>The governor, Mr. William Adrian van Este, notwithstanding
extreme ill-health, became so anxious about us that I saw him
before the appointed time. He received me with great affection
and gave me the fullest proofs that he was possessed of every
feeling of a humane and good man. Sorry as he was, he said, that
such a calamity could ever have happened to us, yet he considered
it as the greatest blessing of his life that we had fallen under
his protection and, though his infirmity was so great that he
could not do the office of a friend himself, he would give such
orders as I might be certain would procure us every supply we
wanted. A house should be immediately prepared for me, and with
respect to my people he said that I might have room for them
either at the hospital or on board of captain Spikerman's ship
which lay in the road; and he expressed much uneasiness that
Coupang could not afford them better accommodations, the house
assigned to me being the only one uninhabited and the situation
of the few families that lived at this place such that they could
not conveniently receive strangers. For the present till matters
could be properly regulated he gave directions that victuals for
my people should be dressed at his own house.</p>
<p>On returning to Captain Spikerman's house I found that every
kind relief had been given to my people. The surgeon had dressed
their sores and the cleaning of their persons had not been less
attended to, several friendly gifts of apparel having been
presented to them.</p>
<p>I desired to be shown to the house that was intended for me,
which I found ready with servants to attend. It consisted of a
hall, with a room at each end, and a loft overhead; and was
surrounded by a piazza with an outer apartment in one corner and
a communication from the back part of the house to the street. I
therefore determined, instead of separating from my people, to
lodge them all with me; and I divided the house as follows: one
room I took to myself, the other I allotted to the master,
surgeon, Mr. Nelson, and the gunner; the loft to the other
officers, and the outer apartment to the men. The hall was common
to the officers and the men had the back piazza. Of this
disposition I informed the governor, and he sent down chairs,
tables and benches, with bedding and other necessaries for the
use of everyone.</p>
<p>The governor when I took my leave had desired me to acquaint
him with everything of which I stood in need; but it was only at
particular times that he had a few moments of ease, or could
attend to anything, being in a dying state with an incurable
disease. On this account I transacted whatever business I had
with Mr. Timotheus Wanjon, the second of this place, who was the
governor's son-in-law, and who also contributed everything in
his power to make our situation comfortable. I had been,
therefore, misinformed by the seaman who told me that captain
Spikerman was the next person in command to the governor.</p>
<p>At noon a dinner was brought to the house sufficiently good to
make persons more accustomed to plenty eat too much. Yet I
believe few in such a situation would have observed more
moderation than my people did. My greatest apprehension was that
they would eat too much fruit, of which there was great variety
in season at this time.</p>
<p>Having seen everyone enjoy this meal of plenty I dined myself
with Mr. Wanjon; but I felt no extraordinary inclination to eat
or drink. Rest and quiet I considered as more necessary to the
reestablishment of my health and therefore retired soon to my
room which I found furnished with every convenience. But instead
of rest my mind was disposed to reflect on our late sufferings,
and on the failure of the expedition; but above all on the thanks
due to Almighty God who had given us power to support and bear
such heavy calamities and had enabled me at last to be the means
of saving eighteen lives.</p>
<p>In times of difficulty there will generally arise
circumstances that bear particularly hard on a commander. In our
late situation it was not the least of my distresses to be
constantly assailed with the melancholy demands of my people for
an increase of allowance which it grieved me to refuse. The
necessity of observing the most rigid economy in the distribution
of our provisions was so evident that I resisted their
solicitations and never deviated from the agreement we made at
setting out. The consequence of this care was that at our arrival
we had still remaining sufficient for eleven days at our scanty
allowance: and if we had been so unfortunate as to have missed
the Dutch settlement at Timor we could have proceeded to Java
where I was certain that every supply we wanted could be
procured.</p>
<p>Another disagreeable circumstance to which my situation
exposed me was the caprice of ignorant people. Had I been
incapable of acting they would have carried the boat on shore as
soon as we made the island of Timor without considering that
landing among the natives at a distance from the European
settlement might have been as dangerous as among any other
Indians.</p>
<p>The quantity of provisions with which we left the ship was not
more than we should have consumed in five days had there been no
necessity for husbanding our stock. The mutineers must naturally
have concluded that we could have no other place of refuge than
the Friendly Islands for it was not likely they should imagine
that, so poorly equipped as we were in every respect, there could
have been a possibility of our attempting to return homewards:
much less can they suspect that the account of their villainy has
already reached their native country.</p>
<p>When I reflect how providentially our lives were saved at
Tofoa by the Indians delaying their attack and that, with scarce
anything to support life, we crossed a sea of more than 1200
leagues, without shelter from the inclemency of the weather; when
I reflect that in an open boat with so much stormy weather we
escaped foundering, that not any of us were taken off by disease,
that we had the great good fortune to pass the unfriendly natives
of other countries without accident, and at last happily to meet
with the most friendly and best of people to relieve our
distresses; I say when I reflect on all these wonderful escapes
the remembrance of such great mercies enables me to bear, with
resignation and cheerfulness, the failure of an expedition the
success of which I had so much at heart and which was frustrated
at a time when I was congratulating myself on the fairest
prospect of being able to complete it in a manner that would
fully have answered the intention of His Majesty and the humane
promoters of so benevolent a plan.</p>
<p>With respect to the preservation of our health during a course
of 16 days of heavy and almost continual rain I would recommend
to everyone in a similar situation the method we practised which
is to dip their clothes in the salt-water and wring them out as
often as they become filled with rain: it was the only resource
we had, and I believe was of the greatest service to us, for it
felt more like a change of dry clothes than could well be
imagined. We had occasion to do this so often that at length all
our clothes were wrung to pieces: for, except the few days we
passed on the coast of New Holland, we were continually wet
either with rain or sea.</p>
<p>Thus through the assistance of Divine Providence we surmounted
the difficulties and distresses of a most perilous voyage and
arrived safe in an hospitable port where every necessary and
comfort were administered to us with a most liberal hand.</p>
<p align="center"><a name="bligh-08"></a><img alt="" src=
"images/bligh-08.jpg"><br>
<b>Track of the Bounty's Launch from Tofoa to Timor by Lt. William Bligh, 1789.</b></p>
<hr align="center" width="50%">
<p><a name="ch18"></a></p>
<h2>CHAPTER 18.</h2>
<blockquote><b>At Coupang.</b></blockquote>
<p>JUNE 1789.</p>
<p>TIMOR.</p>
<p>From the great humanity and attention of the governor and the
gentlemen at Coupang we received every kind of assistance and
were not long without evident signs of returning health. Shortly
after our arrival I presented to the governor a formal account of
the loss of the Bounty; and a requisition in His Majesty's name
that instructions might be sent to all the Dutch settlements to
stop the ship if she made her appearance. With this a complete
descriptive list of the mutineers was given.</p>
<p>I likewise requested in one of my first visits to the governor
that Nelson might have permission to walk about the country in
search of plants, which was readily granted with an offer of
whatever assistance I should think necessary: and the governor
assured me that the country was well worth examination as it
abounded with many curious and medicinal plants. From this
indulgence I derived no benefit, for Nelson, who since we left
New Holland had been but in a weak condition, about this time was
taken ill in consequence of a cold caused by imprudently leaving
off warm clothing.</p>
<p>To secure our arrival at Batavia before the October fleet
sailed for Europe I gave public notice of my intention to hire a
vessel to carry us to Batavia. In consequence of this notice
several offers were made but none that I thought reasonable;
which determined me to purchase a small schooner in the road,
that was 34 feet long, for which I gave 1000 rix-dollars and
fitted her for sea under the name of His Majesty's schooner
Resource. As the coast of Java is frequently infested with small
piratical vessels it was necessary that we should be provided
with the proper means of defence. In this I was assisted by the
friendship of Mr. Wanjon who supplied me with four brass swivels,
14 stand of small arms, and ammunition, which he obligingly let
me have as a loan to be returned at Batavia.</p>
<p>July 20.</p>
<p>On the 20th of July I had the misfortune to lose Mr. David
Nelson: he died of an inflammatory fever. The loss of this honest
man I very much lamented: he had with great care and diligence
attended to the object for which he was sent, and had always been
ready to forward every plan that was proposed, for the good of
the service in which we were engaged. He was not less useful in
our voyage hither, in the course of which he gave me great
satisfaction, by the patience and fortitude with which he
conducted himself.</p>
<p>July 21.</p>
<p>This day I was employed attending the funeral of Mr. Nelson.
The corpse was carried by twelve soldiers dressed in black
preceded by the minister; next followed myself and the second
governor; then ten gentlemen of the town and the officers of the
ships in the harbour; and after them my own officers and
people.</p>
<p>After reading our burial-service the body was interred behind
the chapel, in the burying-ground appropriated to the Europeans
of the town. I was sorry I could get no tombstone to place over
his remains.</p>
<p>This was the second voyage Mr. Nelson had undertaken to the
South Seas, having been sent out by Sir Joseph Banks to collect
plants, seeds, etc. in Captain Cook's last voyage. And now, after
surmounting so many difficulties, and in the midst of
thankfulness for his deliverance, he was called upon to pay the
debt of nature at a time least expected.</p>
<p>August 20.</p>
<p>Our schooner being victualled and ready for sea, on the 20th
of August I took an affectionate leave of the hospitable and
friendly inhabitants of Coupang and embarked. In the afternoon we
sailed, having the launch which had so much contributed to our
preservation in tow. We exchanged salutes with the fort and
shipping as we ran out of the harbour.</p>
<p>The town of Coupang is situated in a great bay which is an
excellent road for shipping. The latitude of the town is 10
degrees 12 minutes south. According to the Dutch charts it is in
121 degrees 51 minutes east longitude. Taking the mean between
the longitude by my reckoning on our arrival at Coupang, and the
longitude afterwards calculated from our run to Batavia, gives me
for the longitude of Coupang 124 degrees 41 minutes east.</p>
<p>This settlement was formed in the year 1630 and is the only
one the Dutch have on the island Timor. They have residents in
different parts of the country. On the north side of Timor there
is a Portuguese settlement. The produce of the island is chiefly
sandalwood and beeswax: the former article is now scarce. Wax
they have in great plenty. The bees build their nests in bushes
and in the boughs of trees to which the natives cannot approach
but with fire. The honey is put into jars and the wax is run into
blocks of three feet in length and from 12 to 15 inches square.
The natives, at least those who live in the neighbourhood of
Coupang, are of a very indolent disposition, of which the Chinese
have taken advantage, for, though the Malays are very fond of
traffic, most of their trade is carried on in small Chinese
vessels of from 10 to 30 tons burden. There is a market at
Coupang for the country people in which however there is little
business done. I have seen a man from the country come to market
with two potatoes: and this is not unusual. These being sold for
two doits (equal to a halfpenny English) serve to supply him with
betel to chew; and the remainder of the day is passed in lounging
about the town. The inland people, who live at a distance from
the Europeans, are strong and active, but their want of
cleanliness subjects them to filthy diseases.</p>
<p>The chief of the natives, or king of the island, is by the
Dutch styled Keyfer (Emperor). This prince lives at a place
called Backennassy, about four miles distant from Coupang. His
authority over the natives is not wholly undisputed; which is by
the Dutch attributed to the intrigues of the Portuguese, who are
on the north part of Timor. The island has lately suffered much
by a competition between the present king and one of his nephews,
which caused a civil war that lasted from the beginning of the
year 1786 to 1788, when their differences were settled by a
treaty, chiefly in favour of the king. The ravages committed in
these disputes have occasioned a scarcity of provisions that
probably, from the want of industry in the natives, will not soon
be remedied. I had an opportunity of making a visit to the king.
His dwelling was a large house which was divided into only three
apartments and surrounded by a piazza, agreeably situated but
very dirty, as was all the furniture. The king, who is an elderly
man, received me with much civility and ordered refreshments to
be set before me, which were tea, rice cakes, roasted Indian
corn, and dried buffalo flesh, with about a pint of arrack, which
I believe was all he had. His dress was a check wrapper girded
round his waist with a silk and gold belt, a loose linen jacket,
and a coarse handkerchief about his head. A few of his chiefs
were with him who partook of our repast; after which the king
retired with three of them for a short time and when he returned
presented me with a round plate of metal about four inches
diameter on which was stamped the figure of a star. As I had been
informed that arrack would be an acceptable present I was
prepared to make a return which was well received. They never
dilute their liquor and from habit are able to drink a large
quantity of spirits at a time without being intoxicated.</p>
<p>When a king dies a large feast is made to which all the
inhabitants are invited. The body after a few days is put into a
coffin which is closed up and kept three years before it is
interred.</p>
<p>The Dutch have been at some pains to establish Christianity
among the natives: but it has not gained much ground, except in
the neighbourhood of Coupang. The present king was christened by
the name of Barnardus. His Indian name is Bachee Bannock. The
scriptures are translated into the Malay language and prayers are
performed in the church at Coupang by a Malay clergyman, in that
language.</p>
<p>I met at Timor with most of the fruits that are described in
Captain Cook's first voyage as natives of Batavia, except the
mangosteen. The breadfruit tree, called by the Malays soccoom,
likewise grows here with great luxuriance and appears to be as
much a native of this island as it is of Otaheite. The fruit is
exactly of the same kind but not so good. A breadfruit of Timor
weighs half as much more as one of equal size at Otaheite. It is
not used here as bread but generally eaten with milk and sugar.
At Backennassy I saw about twenty of the trees, larger than any I
have seen at Otaheite. Here is also a sort of breadfruit tree
that produces seeds not unlike Windsor beans and equally
palatable either boiled or roasted. No other part of the fruit is
eatable and, though the tree I am told is to all appearance the
same as the other, the fruits have but little resemblance, the
fruit of this being covered with projecting points nearly half an
inch in length.</p>
<p>I received a present of some fine plants from the governor,
which I was afterwards unfortunately obliged to leave at Batavia
for want of proper room to take care of them in the packet by
which I returned to Europe. Mr. Wanjon likewise favoured me with
some seeds for His Majesty's garden at Kew which I had the good
fortune to deliver safe on my return: and some of the mountain
rice cultivated at Timor on the dry land, which was forwarded to
His Majesty's botanic garden at St. Vincent, and to other parts
in the West Indies.</p>
<p>A resemblance of language between the people of the South Sea
islands and the inhabitants of many of the islands in the East
Indies has been remarked in Captain Cook's first voyage. Here the
resemblance appeared stronger than has yet been noticed;
particularly in their numerals. But besides the language I
observed some customs among the people of Timor still more
striking for their similarity. They practise the tooge-tooge* of
the Friendly Islands which they call toombock: and the roomee of
Otaheite which they call ramas. I likewise saw, placed on their
graves, offerings of baskets with tobacco and betel.</p>
<blockquote>(*Footnote. The tooge-tooge is described in Captain Cook's
last voyage Volume 1 page 323; and the roomee in the same voyage
Volume 2 page 64.)</blockquote>
<p>I left the governor Mr. van Este at the point of death. To
this gentleman our most grateful thanks are due for the humane
and friendly treatment that we received from him. His ill state
of health only prevented him from showing us more particular
marks of attention. Unhappily it is to his memory only that I now
pay this tribute. It was a fortunate circumstance for us that Mr.
Wanjon, the next in place to the governor, was equally humane and
ready to relieve us. His attention was unremitting and, when
there was a doubt about supplying me with money to enable me to
purchase a vessel, he cheerfully took it upon himself; without
which it was evident, I should have been too late at Batavia to
have sailed for Europe with the October fleet. I can only return
such services by ever retaining a grateful remembrance of
them.</p>
<p>Mr. Max the town surgeon likewise behaved to us with the most
disinterested humanity: he attended everyone with the utmost
care, for which I could not prevail on him to receive any
payment, or to render me any account, or other answer than that
it was his duty.</p>
<hr align="center" width="50%">
<p><a name="ch19"></a></p>
<h2>CHAPTER 19.</h2>
<blockquote><b>From Timor to Batavia.</b></blockquote>
<p>AUGUST 1789.</p>
<p>Thursday 20.</p>
<p>From Coupang we steered north-west by west having a moderate
breeze at south-east with fair weather.</p>
<p>Saturday 22.</p>
<p>At daylight we saw the island Flores to the northward. At noon
latitude observed 9 degrees 27 minutes south, and longitude by
account from Coupang 2 degrees 10 minutes west. Our distance from
the coast of Flores was about 10 leagues; and two high peaked
mountains bore north half east and north-north-west. These two
mountains resemble each other in shape and the westernmost is a
volcano. The interior parts of Flores are mountainous and woody:
but near the sea-coast is a fine open country. A Dutch map with
which I was provided places the south part of Flores in 9 degrees
3 minutes south which I am of opinion is too far south. We
steered along the south side of Flores, mostly with light winds
and hazy weather, so that we did not constantly keep sight of the
coast.</p>
<p>Tuesday 25.</p>
<p>At noon we were off Toorns island which bore north-west by
north three or four leagues distant. Our latitude observed was 8
degrees 57 minutes south and longitude made by dead reckoning
from Coupang 3 degrees 27 minutes west. Toorns island is about
four leagues in circuit and has a craggy and uneven appearance.
There is a curious high peak on the south-west part: the land
near the shore is low and woody.</p>
<p>Thursday 27.</p>
<p>On the 27th at noon we were near the entrance of the Straits
of Mangaryn, which not appearing so open and clear as represented
in the map, I steered for the straits of Sapi, intending to pass
through; but was obliged to give up this plan by strong currents
setting to the south-east which there was not sufficient wind to
enable us to stem.</p>
<p>Saturday 29.</p>
<p>I therefore again stood for the Straits of Mangaryn which we
ran through in the afternoon of the 29th, being favoured with a
fresh breeze from the south-south-east. On our first entering the
straits we got close to the Flores shore: our course through was
north half east. We tried for soundings but could not anywhere
find bottom at 25 and 30 fathoms depth. On the Flores side there
are many good harbours and bays where vessels may anchor; but the
country hereabouts appears burnt up and desolate.</p>
<p>I had no azimuth-compass and consequently could not observe
very accurately the variation; but I believe there is so little
in Mangaryn Straits that no great error will be occasioned by
considering the true and magnetic bearings to be the same.</p>
<p>When we had passed the straits we kept to the westward,
running along the north side of the island Sumbawa, where there
is a very high mountain near the coast, at the foot of which I am
informed, are many runs of good water, conveniently situated for
ships to supply themselves. The latitude of the north part of
Sumbawa I make by my observations and bearings to be 8 degrees 6
minutes south, which differs very little from the Dutch
charts.</p>
<p>Monday 31.</p>
<p>In the night of the 31st several prows were rowing about us,
on which account we kept all night under arms.</p>
<p>September. Thursday 3.</p>
<p>This and the two following days we were sailing along the
north side of the island Lombok, on which is a high mountain.
Most of the islands in this route are distinguished by high
mountains. Lombok appears to be well clothed with wood. In the
nights we saw fires upon the high lands at a distance from the
coast.</p>
<p>Sunday 6.</p>
<p>In the afternoon we saw the high land of Cape Sandana, which
is the north-east part of Java.</p>
<p>Monday 7.</p>
<p>The next day we were off cape Sandana which is a low cape
projecting from the high land already mentioned. This cape is
placed by the Dutch maps in 7 degrees 52 minutes south. But
according to my observation and our estimated distance from the
land I make it in 7 degrees 46 minutes south latitude. The
longitude by my dead reckoning from Coupang to Cape Sandana was
11 degrees 33 minutes west.</p>
<p>Thursday 10.</p>
<p>We steered to the westward along the coast of Java and on the
10th at noon we anchored off Passourwang, a Dutch settlement on
the coast of Java, in two fathoms, distant from the shore half a
league, the entrance of the river bearing south-west. The coast
hereabouts so is shoal that large ships are obliged to anchor
three or four miles from the land. As soon as we were at anchor I
got in my boat and went on shore. The banks of the river near the
entrance were mud, on which grew a few mangrove bushes. Among
them we saw hogs running and many were laying dead in the mud,
which caused a most intolerable stench and made me heartily
repent having come here; but after proceeding about a mile up the
river, the course of which was serpentine, we found a very
pleasant country and landed at a small and well-constructed fort,
where I was received in a friendly and polite manner by M. Adrian
van Rye, the commandant. By the return of the boat I sent on
board a small bullock and other provisions. I likewise took a
pilot to conduct us to Sourabaya.</p>
<p>The houses at Passourwang are neatly built and the country
appears to be well cultivated. The produce of this settlement is
rice, of which they export large quantities. There are but few
Dutch here: the Javanese are numerous and their chief lives with
considerable splendour. They have good roads and posts are
established along the coast; and it appears to be a busy and
well-regulated settlement. Latitude 7 degrees 36 minutes south.
Longitude 1 degree 44 minutes west of Cape Sandana.</p>
<p>Friday 11.</p>
<p>The next day about noon we sailed.</p>
<p>Saturday 12.</p>
<p>And on the 12th in the evening anchored in Sourabaya road in
seven fathoms: the flagstaff bearing south one quarter west;
distance from the shore one mile. We found riding here seven
square-rigged and several smaller vessels.</p>
<p>It was too late when we anchored to send a boat on shore.</p>
<p>Sunday 13.</p>
<p>The next morning before daylight three guard-boats stationed
themselves near us and I was informed that I must not land or
send a boat on shore. This restriction I learnt from the officer
of the guard-boats was in conformity to general orders concerning
all strange vessels on their first arrival. At nine in the
forenoon leave came off for us to land and soon after the
guard-boats quitted us.</p>
<p>I was received on shore with great civility and friendship by
the governor or Opperhoost M. Ant. Barkay, and the commandant of
the troops M. de Bose. By these gentlemen I was hospitably
entertained, and advised to remain till the 16th when some
vessels were to sail, with whom I might keep company, which they
recommended on account of pirates.</p>
<p>Sourabaya is one of the most pleasant places I ever saw. It is
situated on the banks of a river and is a mile and a half distant
from the seashore so that only the flagstaff can be seen from the
road. The river is navigable up to the town for vessels of 100
tons burden, and the bank on one side is made convenient for
tracking. The Chinese carry on a considerable trade here, and
have a town or camp on the side of the river opposite to
Sourabaya. The country near the town is flat and the soil light,
so that they plow with a single bullock or buffalo (karrabow).
The interior parts of the country near the mountains are infested
with a breed of fierce tigers, which makes travelling inland very
dangerous. They have here a breed of horses which are small but
they are handsome and strong.</p>
<p>The Javanese in this neighbourhood are numerous. M. Barkay and
M. de Bose took me with them to pay a visit to two of the
principal natives, whom we found attended by a number of men
armed with pikes in great military order. We were entertained
with a concert of music; the instruments were gongs, drums, and a
fiddle with two strings. I hired a pilot here to carry us to
Batavia. Our latitude observed in Sourabaya road was 7 degrees 11
minutes south. Longitude made from Cape Sandana 1 degree 52
minutes west.</p>
<p>Thursday 17.</p>
<p>On the 17th we sailed from Sourabaya in company with three
prows. At noon we anchored at Crissey which is a town with a
small fort belonging to the Dutch. We remained here about two
hours and then weighed. Latitude of Crissey 7 degrees 9 minutes
south. Longitude from Cape Sandana 1 degree 55 minutes west.</p>
<p>The navigation through the Straits of Madura is so intricate
that with the little opportunity I had I am unable to undertake a
description of it.</p>
<p>Friday 18.</p>
<p>The next day, having passed the straits, we bore away to the
westward along the coast of Java in company with the prows before
mentioned.</p>
<p>Tuesday 22.</p>
<p>We had regular soundings all the way to Samarang, off which
place we anchored on the 22nd in the afternoon; the church
bearing south-east; distance from the shore half a league: depth
of water two fathoms. The shoalness of the coast here makes the
road of Samarang very inconvenient, both on account of the great
distance that large ships (of which there were several in the
road) are obliged to lay from the shore, and of the landing which
is in a river that cannot be entered before half-flood. This
river resembles the one at Passourwang, the shores being low with
offensive dead animals laying about. I was met at the
landing-place by the equipage-master, and he furnished me with a
carriage to carry me to the governor, whose residence is about
two miles from the town of Samarang. I requested and obtained
leave to have our wants supplied, which were to recruit our
provisions, and to get a any mainmast, having sprung ours in the
passage from Sourabaya.</p>
<p>Samarang is a fortified town surrounded by a wall and ditch,
and is the most considerable settlement next to Batavia that the
Dutch have in Java. Here is a very good hospital and a public
school, chiefly for teaching the mathematics. They have likewise
a theatre. Provisions are remarkably cheap here, beef being at
ten doits per pound and the price of a fowl 12 doits.</p>
<p>I experienced great civility from some of the gentlemen at
Samarang, particularly from M. le Baron de Bose, a merchant,
brother to the M. de Bose, commandant of the troops at Sourabaya:
and from M. Abegg, the surgeon of the hospital, to whom we were
indebted for advice and medicines for which he would not consent
to receive payment.</p>
<p>The latitude of Samarang is 6 degrees 57 minutes. Longitude by
my reckoning from Cape Sandana 4 degrees 7 minutes west.</p>
<p>Saturday 26.</p>
<p>On the 26th we sailed from Samarang and with us a galley
mounting six swivels which the governor had directed to accompany
us to Batavia.</p>
<p>October. Thursday 1.</p>
<p>On the 1st of October we anchored in Batavia road, where we
found riding a Dutch ship of war and 20 sail of Dutch East India
ships, besides many smaller vessels.</p>
<hr align="center" width="50%">
<p><a name="ch20"></a></p>
<h2>CHAPTER 20.</h2>
<blockquote><b>Occurrences at Batavia and Passage thence to England.</b></blockquote>
<p>OCTOBER 1789.</p>
<p>In the afternoon at four o'clock I went on shore and landed at
a house by the river where strangers first stop and give an
account who they are, whence they came, etc. From this place a
Malay gentleman took me in a carriage to Sabandar, Mr. Engelhard,
whose house was in the environs of the city on the side nearest
the shipping. The Sabandar is the officer with whom all strangers
are obliged to transact their business: at least the whole must
go through his hands. With him I went to pay my respects to the
governor-general who received me with great civility. I
acquainted his excellency with my situation and requested my
people might be taken care of and that we should be allowed to
take a passage to Europe in the first ship that sailed. I
likewise desired permission to sell the schooner and launch. All
this his excellency told me should be granted. I then took leave
and returned with the Sabandar who wrote down the particulars of
my wants in order to form from them a regular petition to be
presented to the council the next day. I had brought from the
governor of Coupang, directed for the governor-general at
Batavia, the account of my voyage and misfortune, translated into
Dutch from an account that I had given to Mr. van Este. So
attentive had they been at Timor to everything that related to
us.</p>
<p>There is a large hotel at Batavia fitted up purposely for the
accommodation of strangers, who are not allowed to reside at any
other place. It is situated near the great river in a part of the
city that is reckoned the most airy and healthy. Nevertheless I
found the air hot and suffocating and was taken ill in the night
with a violent pain in my head.</p>
<p>Friday 2.</p>
<p>The next morning at nine the council sat and I attended,
accompanied by the Sabandar; and was informed that the council
had complied with all I had requested.</p>
<p>When I returned to the hotel my headache increased and a
violent fever came on. I sent to acquaint the Sabandar of my
situation and was soon after attended by the head surgeon of the
town hospital Mr. Aansorp, by whose care and skill in less than
24 hours the fever considerably abated but a severe headache
continued. I had an invitation from the governor-general to dine
with him, which of course I was obliged to decline.</p>
<p>I hired a carriage which cost three dollars per day for the
benefit of taking an airing. My lodgings at the hotel were so
close and hot that I desired the Sabandar to apply to the
Governor-General for leave to hire a house in the country; which
request his excellency not only immediately complied with but
gave directions for my being accommodated at the house of the
physician or surgeon-general Mr. Sparling.</p>
<p>One of my people, Thomas Hall, being ill with a flux I
obtained leave for him to be sent to the country hospital which
is a convenient airy building.</p>
<p>Tuesday 6.</p>
<p>This morning at sunrise I left the hotel and was carried to
Mr. Sparling's house, about four miles distant from the city and
near the convalescent hospital which at this time had also sick
men in it, the whole number of patients amounting to 800. I found
everything prepared for my comfort and convenience. Mr. Sparling
would suffer me to take no medicine though I had still
considerable fever with headache: but I found so much relief from
the difference of the air that in the evening I was able to
accompany Mr. Sparling on a visit to the governor-general at one
of his country seats, where we found many ladies all dressed in
the Malay fashion, some of them richly ornamented with jewels. I
had invitations from several gentlemen and some very kindly
pressed me to make their country houses my abode till my health
should be reestablished.</p>
<p>My indisposition increasing, Mr. Sparling advised me to quit
Batavia as speedily as possible and represented the necessity of
it to the governor-general. I was informed from his excellency
that the homeward-bound ships were so much crowded that there
would be no possibility of all my people going in one ship, and
that they could be accommodated no other way than by dividing
them into different ships. Seeing therefore that a separation was
unavoidable I determined to follow the advice of the physician
and, as a packet was appointed to sail for Europe on the 16th
instant, I sent to request of the governor that I might be
allowed to take a passage in her for myself and as many of my
people as they were able to receive. In answer to this I was
acquainted that myself and two more could be accommodated in the
packet, she being too small to admit a greater number; but that I
might rest assured of passages being provided for those that
remained by the earliest opportunities.</p>
<p>Friday 9.</p>
<p>This day anchored in the road the General Elliot, an English
ship commanded by Captain Lloyd. In the Straits of Banca he had
met with some boats belonging to the East India Company's ship
Vansittart that was lost in the straits of Billaton by having
struck on a rock that went through her bottom. Captain Wilson,
who commanded the Vansittart, I was informed had just finished a
survey of those Straits and was hoisting his boat in when the
ship struck. Immediately on receiving the intelligence Captain
Lloyd, in the General Elliot and another ship in company called
the Nonsuch, sailed for the wreck. They found the ship had been
burnt down to the water's edge by the Malays. They however saved
40 chests of treasure out of 55 which were said to have been on
board. Most of the ship's company were saved: one man only was
lost in the ship, and five others in a small boat were missing
who were supposed to have taken some of the treasure. The greater
part of the people went with Captain Wilson to China, and some
were with Captain Lloyd.</p>
<p>Saturday 10.</p>
<p>This morning the Resource was sold by public auction: the
custom at Batavia is to begin high and to lower the price till
some person bids; and the first bidder is the buyer. She was
accordingly put up at 2000 rix-dollars but to my great
disappointment no one offered to purchase before the auctioneer
had lowered the demand to 295 rix-dollars, for which price she
was sold, the purchaser being an Englishman, Captain John Eddie,
who commanded an English ship from Bengal. If no strangers had
been present at the sale I imagine they would have let her run
down to 200 dollars, in which case I should have had no
alternative.</p>
<p>The launch likewise was sold. The services she had rendered us
made me feel great reluctance at parting with her; which I would
not have done if I could have found a convenient opportunity of
getting her conveyed to Europe.</p>
<p>Little as the schooner had sold for I found I was in danger of
having the sum lessened; for the Sabandar informed me that by an
order of the council there was a duty on the sale of all vessels.
With this demand I would by no means comply for I thought I had
sufficiently suffered in sustaining a loss of 705 rix-dollars out
of 1000 by the purchase and sale of the vessel, she having cost
1000 rix-dollars.</p>
<p>This day Thomas Hall, whom I had sent to be taken care of at
the hospital, died. He had been ill of a flux from the time of
our arrival at Timor.</p>
<p>Monday 12.</p>
<p>I agreed with the captain of the packet for a passage to
Europe for myself, my clerk, and a servant. The Sabandar informed
me it was necessary that my officers and people should be
examined before a notary respecting the loss of the Bounty, as
otherwise the governor and council were not legally authorised to
detain her if she should be found in any of the Dutch
settlements. They were therefore at my desire examined, and
afterwards made affidavit before the governor and council at the
Stadthouse.</p>
<p>My officers complaining to me of the unreasonableness of some
tradesmen's bills I spoke to the Sabandar. A bill of 51 dollars
for five hats he reduced to 30 dollars and in other articles made
proportionable deductions.</p>
<p>Paper money is the currency of Batavia and is so understood in
all bargains. At this time paper was at 28 per cent discount:
there is likewise a difference in the value of the ducatoon which
at Batavia is 80 stivers and in Holland only 63 stivers: this
occasions a loss of 21 1/4 per cent on remittance of money. It
therefore follows that if any person at Batavia remits money by
bills of exchange to Europe they lose by the discount and the
exchange 49 1/4 per cent.</p>
<p>Those who have accounts to pay and can give unexceptionable
bills on Europe will find a considerable saving by negotiating
their bills with private people who are glad to give for them a
premium of 20 per cent at the least. This discovery I made
somewhat too late to profit by.</p>
<p>One of the greatest difficulties that strangers have to
encounter is their being obliged to live at the hotel. This hotel
was formerly two houses which by doors of communication have been
made one. It is in the middle of a range of buildings more
calculated for a cold country than for such a climate as Batavia.
There is no free circulation of air and what is equally bad it is
always very dirty; and there is great want of attendance. What
they call cleaning the house is another nuisance; for they never
use any water to cool it or to lay the dust, but sweep daily with
brooms in such a manner that those in the house are almost
suffocated by a cloud of dust.</p>
<p>The months of December and January are reckoned the most
unhealthy of the year, the heavy rains being then set in. The
account of the seasons as given to me here I believe may be
relied on.</p>
<p>The middle of November the west monsoon begins and rain.</p>
<p>December and January. Continual rain with strong westerly
wind.</p>
<p>February. Westerly wind. Towards the end of this month the
rain begins to abate.</p>
<p>March. Intervals of fine weather. Wind westerly.</p>
<p>April. In this month the east monsoon begins. Weather
generally fine with showers of rain.</p>
<p>May. East monsoon fixed. Showery.</p>
<p>June and July. Clear weather. Strong east wind.</p>
<p>August and September. Wind more moderate.</p>
<p>October. In this month the wind begins to be variable with
showers of rain.</p>
<p>The current is said always to run with the wind. Nevertheless
I found the reverse in sailing from Timor to Java. Between the
end of October and the beginning of the ensuing year no Dutch
ship bound for Europe is allowed to sail from Batavia for fear of
being near the Mauritius at the time of the hurricanes which are
frequent there in December and January.</p>
<p>My illness prevented me from gaining much knowledge of
Batavia. Of their public buildings I saw nothing that gave me so
much satisfaction as their country hospital for seamen. It is a
large commodious and airy building about four miles from the
town, close to the side of the river, or rather in the river: for
the ground on which it stands has by labour been made an island
of, and the sick are carried there in a boat: each ward is a
separate dwelling and the different diseases are properly
classed. They have sometimes 1400 patients in it: at this time
there were 800, but more than half of these were recovered and
fit for service, of whom 300 were destined for the fleet that was
to sail for Europe. I went through most of the wards and there
appeared great care and attention. The sheets, bedding, and linen
of the sick were perfectly neat and clean. The house of the
physician, Mr. Sparling, who has the management of the hospital
is at one extremity of the building: and here it was that I
resided. To the attention and care of this gentleman, for which
he would receive no payment, I am probably indebted for my
life.</p>
<p>The hospital in the town is well attended, but the situation
is so ill chosen that it certainly would be the saving of many
lives to build one in its stead up the river, which might be done
with great advantage as water carriage is so easy and convenient.
A great neglect in some of the commanders of the shipping here
was suffering their people to go dirty and frequently without
frock, shirt, or anything to cover their bodies, which, besides
being a public nuisance, must probably be productive of ill
health in the most robust constitution.</p>
<p>The governor-general gave me leave to lodge all my people at
the country hospital which I thought a great advantage and with
which they were perfectly satisfied. The officers however at
their own request remained in the town.</p>
<p>The time fixed for the sailing of the packet approaching, I
settled my accounts with the Sabandar, leaving open the
victualling account to be closed by Mr. Fryer the master previous
to his departure, who I likewise authorised to supply the men and
officers left under his command with one month's pay to enable
them to purchase clothing for their passage to England.</p>
<p>I had been at great pains to bring living plants from Timor,
in six tubs, which contained jacks, nancas, karambolas, namnams,
jambos, and three thriving breadfruit plants. These I thought
might be serviceable at the Cape of Good Hope if brought no
farther: but I had the mortification of being obliged to leave
them all at Batavia. I took these plants on board at Coupang on
the 20th of August: they had experienced a passage of 42 days to
my arrival here. The breadfruit plants died to the root and
sprouted afresh from thence. The karambolas, jacks, nancas, and
namnams I had raised from the seed and they were in fine order.
No judgment can hence be formed of the success of transporting
plants, as in the present trial they had many disadvantages.</p>
<p>Friday 16.</p>
<p>This morning being sunrise I embarked on board the Vlydte
packet commanded by Captain Peter Couvret, bound for Middleburgh.
With me likewise embarked Mr. John Samwell, clerk, and John
Smith, seaman. Those of our company who stayed behind the
governor promised me should follow in the first ships and be as
little divided as possible. At 7 o'clock the packet weighed and
sailed out of the road.</p>
<p>Sunday 18.</p>
<p>On the 18th we spoke the Rambler, an American brig belonging
to Boston, bound to Batavia. After passing the Straits of Sunda
we steered to the north of the Cocos Isles. These islands,
Captain Couvret informed me, are full of coconut trees: there is
no anchorage near them but good landing for boats. Their latitude
12 degrees 0 minutes south. Longitude 96 degrees 5 minutes
east.</p>
<p>In the passage to the Cape of Good Hope there occurred nothing
worth remark. I cannot however forbear noticing the Dutch manner
of navigating. They steer by true compass, or rather endeavour so
to do, by means of a small movable central card, which they set
to the meridian: and whenever they discover the variation has
altered 2 1/2 degrees since the last adjustment they again
correct the central card. This is steering within a quarter of a
point, without aiming at greater exactness. The officer of the
watch likewise corrects the course for leeway by his own judgment
before it is marked down in the log board. They heave no log: I
was told that the company do not allow it. Their manner of
computing their run is by means of a measured distance of 40 feet
along the ship's side: they take notice of any remarkable patch
of froth when it is abreast the foremost end of the measured
distance, and count half seconds till the mark of froth is
abreast the after end. With the number of half seconds thus
obtained they divide the number 48, taking the product for the
rate of sailing in geographical miles in one hour, or the number
of Dutch miles in four hours.</p>
<p>It is not usual to make any allowance to the sun's declination
on account of being on a different meridian from that for which
the tables are calculated: they in general compute with the
numbers just as they are found in the table. From all this it is
not difficult to conceive the reason why the Dutch are frequently
above ten degrees out in their reckoning. Their passages likewise
are considerably lengthened by not carrying a sufficient quantity
of sail.</p>
<p>December 16.</p>
<p>In the afternoon we anchored in Table Bay.</p>
<p>December 17.</p>
<p>The next morning I went on shore and waited on his excellency
M. Vander Graaf who received me in the most polite and friendly
manner. The Guardian, commanded by Lieutenant Riou, had left the
Cape about eight days before with cattle and stores for Port
Jackson. This day anchored in table bay the Astree, a French
frigate, commanded by the Count de St. Rivel from the Isle of
France, on board of which ship was the late governor, the
Chevalier d'Entrecasteaux. Other ships that arrived during my
stay at the Cape were a French 40-gun frigate, an East India
ship, and a brig, of the same nation: likewise two other French
ships with slaves from the coast of Mozambique bound to the West
Indies: a Dutch packet from Europe, after a four months passage:
and the Harpy, a South Sea Whaler with 500 barrels of spermaceti,
and 400 of seal and other oils. There is a standing order from
the Dutch East India Company that no person who takes a passage
from Batavia for Europe in any of their ships shall be allowed to
leave the ship before she arrives at her intended port. According
to which regulation I must have gone to Holland in the packet. Of
this I was not informed till I was taking leave of the
governor-general at Batavia, when it was too late for him to give
the Captain an order to permit me to land in the channel. He
however desired I would make use of his name to governor Vander
Graaf, who readily complied with my request and gave the
necessary orders to the Captain of the packet, a copy of which
his excellency gave to me; and at the same time recommendatory
letters to people of consequence in Holland in case I should be
obliged to proceed so far.</p>
<p>I left a letter at the Cape of Good Hope to be forwarded to
governor Phillips at Port Jackson by the first opportunity,
containing a short account of my voyage with a descriptive list
of the pirates: and from Batavia I had written to Lord
Cornwallis, so that every part of India will be prepared to
receive them.</p>
<p>Saturday 2.</p>
<p>We sailed from the Cape in company with the Astree French
frigate. The next morning neither ship nor land were in sight. On
the 15th we passed in sight of the island St. Helena. The 21st we
saw the island Ascension. On the 10th of February, the wind being
at north-east blowing fresh, our sails were covered with a fine
orange-coloured dust. Fuego, the westernmost of the Cape de Verde
islands and the nearest land to us on that day at noon bore
north-east by east half east, distance 140 leagues. When we had
passed the latitude of the Western Islands a lookout was kept for
some rocks which Captain Couvret had been informed lay in
latitude 44 degrees 25 minutes north and 2 degrees 50 minutes
east longitude from the east end of St. Michael. This information
Captain Couvret had received from a person that he knew and who
said he had seen them. On the 13th of March we saw the Bill of
Portland and on the evening of the next day, Sunday March the
14th, I left the packet and was landed at Portsmouth by an Isle
of Wight boat.</p>
<p>Those of my officers and people whom I left at Batavia were
provided with passages in the earliest ships; and at the time we
parted were apparently in good health. Nevertheless they did not
all live to quit Batavia. Mr. Elphinstone, master's mate, and
Peter Linkletter, seaman, died within a fortnight after my
departure, the hardships they had experienced having rendered
them unequal to cope with so unhealthy a climate as that of
Batavia. The remainder embarked on board the Dutch fleet for
Europe, and arrived safe at this country, except Robert Lamb, who
died on the passage, and Mr. Ledward the surgeon who has not yet
been heard of. Thus of nineteen who were forced by the mutineers
into the launch it has pleased God that twelve should surmount
the difficulties and dangers of the voyage and live to revisit
their native country.</p>
<hr align="center" width="50%">
<hr align="center" width="20%">
<h2>The End</h2>
<pre>
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