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diff --git a/15376.txt b/15376.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6b91dd8 --- /dev/null +++ b/15376.txt @@ -0,0 +1,21552 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of A General History and Collection of Voyages +and Travels, Volume 11, by Robert Kerr + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: A General History and Collection of Voyages and Travels, Volume 11 + Arranged in Systematic Order: Forming a Complete History + of the Origin and Progress of Navigation, Discovery, and + Commerce, by Sea and Land, from the Earliest Ages to the + Present Time + +Author: Robert Kerr + +Release Date: March 16, 2005 [EBook #15376] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK VOYAGES AND TRAVELS, VOLUME 11 *** + + + + +Produced by Robert Connal, Alison Hadwin and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team. This file was produced from +images generously made available by the Canadian Institute +for Historical Microreproductions. + + + + + + + + + +A GENERAL HISTORY AND COLLECTION OF VOYAGES AND TRAVELS, + +ARRANGED IN SYSTEMATIC ORDER: + +FORMING A COMPLETE HISTORY OF THE ORIGIN AND PROGRESS OF NAVIGATION, +DISCOVERY, AND COMMERCE, BY SEA AND LAND, FROM THE EARLIEST AGES TO +THE PRESENT TIME. + + +BY + + +ROBERT KERR, F.R.S. & F.A.S. EDIN. + +ILLUSTRATED BY MAPS AND CHARTS. + +VOL. XI. + +WILLIAM BLACKWOOD, EDINBURGH: +AND T. CADELL, LONDON. +MDCCCXXIV. + + + + +CONTENTS OF VOL. XI + + +PART II. BOOK IV. CONTINUED. + +CHAP. XII.--(_Continued_.) + Voyage round the World, by Captain George Shelvocke, in 1719-1722, + + SECT. + V. Voyage from California to Canton in China, + + VI. Residence in China, and Voyage thence to + England, + + VII. Supplement to the foregoing Voyage, + + VIII. Appendix to Shelvocke's Voyage round the + World. Containing Observations on the + Country and Inhabitants of Peru, by Captain + Betagh, + + Introduction, + Sec. 1. Particulars of the Capture of the Mercury + by the Spaniards, + Sec. 2. Observations made by Betagh in the + North of Peru, + Sec. 3. Voyage from Payta to Lima, and Account + of the English Prisoners at that + Place, + Sec. 4. Description of Lima, and some Account + of the Government of Peru, + Sec. 5. Some Account of the Mines of Peru and + Chili, + Sec. 6. Observations on the Trade of Chili, + Sec. 7. Some Account of the French Interlopers + in Chili, + Sec. 8. Return of Betagh to England, + +CHAP. XIII. Voyage round the World, by Commodore Roggewein, in 1721-1723 + + Introduction + + SECT. + I. Narrative of the Voyage from Holland to the Coast of Brazil, + + II. Arrival in Brazil, with some Account of that Country, + + III. Incidents during the Voyage from Brazil to Juan Fernandez, with a + Description of that Island, + + IV. Continuation of the Voyage from Juan Fernandez till the Shipwreck of + the African Galley, + + V. Continuation of the Voyage after the Loss of the African, to the + Arrival of Roggewein at New Britain, + + VI. Description of New Britain, and farther Continuation of the Voyage + till the Arrival of Roggewein at Java, + + VII. Occurrences from their Arrival at the Island of Java, to the + Confiscation of the Ships at Batavia, + + VIII. Description of Batavia and the Island of Java, with some Account + of the Government of the Dutch East-India Company's Affairs, + + IX. Description of Ceylon, + + X. Some Account of the Governments of Amboina, Banda, Macasser, the + Moluccas, Mallacca, and the Cape of Good Hope, + + XI. Account of the Directories of Coromandel, Surat, Bengal, and + Persia, + + XII. Account of the Commanderies of Malabar, Gallo, Java, and + Bantam, + + XIII. Some Account of the Residences of Cheribon, Siam, and Mockha, + + XIV. Of the Trade of the Dutch in Borneo and China, + + XV. Of the Dutch Trade with Japan, + + XVI. Account of the Colony of the Cape of Good Hope, + + XVII. Voyage from the Cape of Good Hope to Holland, with some Account of + St Helena, the Island of Ascension, and the Acores, + +CHAP. XIV. Voyage round the World, by Captain George Anson, in the Years +1740-1744, + + Preface, + + Introduction, + + SECT. + I. Of the Equipment of the Squadron, and the Incidents relating to it, + from its first Appointment to its setting Sail from St Helens, + + II. The Passage from St Helens to the Island of Madeira, with a short + Account of that Island, and of our Stay there, + + III. History of the Spanish Squadron commanded by Don Joseph + Pizarro, 236 + + IV. Passage from Madeira to St Catharines, + + V. Proceedings at St Catharines, and a Description of that Place, with + a short Account of Brazil, + + VI. The Run from St Catharines to Port St Julian; with some Account of + the Port, and of the Country to the South of the Rio Plata, + + VII. Departure from the Bay of St Julian, and Passage from thence to + the Straits of Le Maire, + + VIII. Course from the Straits of Le Maire to Cape Noir, + + IX. Observations and Directions for facilitating the Passage of future + Navigators round Cape Horn, + + X. Course from Cape Noir to the Island of Juan Fernandez, + + XI. Arrival of the Centurion at Juan Fernandez, with a Description of + that Island, + + XII. Separate Arrivals of the Gloucester, and Anna Pink, at Juan + Fernandez, and Transactions at that Island during the + Interval, + + XIII. Short Account of what befell the Anna Pink before she rejoined; + with an Account of the Loss of the Wager, and the putting back of + the Severn and Pearl, + + XIV. Conclusion of Proceedings at Juan Fernandez, from the Arrival of + the Anna Pink, to our final Departure from thence, + + XV. Our Cruise, from leaving Juan Fernandez, to the taking of + Payta, + + XVI. Capture of Payta, and Proceedings at that Place, + + XVII. Occurrences from our Departure from Payta to our Arrival + at Quibo, + + XVIII. Our Proceedings at Quibo, with an Account of the Place, + + XIX. From Quibo to the Coast of Mexico, + + XX. An Account of the Commerce carried on between the City of Manilla on + the Island of Luconia, and the Port of Acapulco on the Coast of + Mexico, + + XXI. Our Cruise off the Port of Acapulco for the Manilla Ship, + + XXII. A short Account of Chequetan, and of the adjacent Coast and + Country, + + XXIII. Account of Proceedings at Chequetan and on the adjacent Coast, + till our setting sail for Asia, + + XXIV. The Run from the Coast of Mexico to the Ladrones or Marian + Islands, + + XXV. Our Arrival at Tinian, and an Account of the Island, and of our + Proceedings there, till the Centurion drove out to Sea, + + XXVI. Transactions at Tinian after the Departure of the Centurion, + + XXVII. Account of the Proceedings on board the Centurion when driven out + to Sea, + + XXVIII. Of our Employment at Tinian, till the final Departure of the + Centurion, and of the Voyage to Macao, + + XXIX. Proceeding at Macao, + + XXX. From Macao to Cape Espiritu Santo: The taking of the Manilla + Galleon, and returning back again, + + XXXI. Transactions in the River of Canton, + + XXXII. Proceedings at the City of Canton, and the Return of the + Centurion to England, + + + + +A GENERAL HISTORY AND COLLECTION OF VOYAGES AND TRAVELS. + +PART II. + +BOOK IV. (CONTINUED.) + + * * * * * + + + + +CHAPTER XII--_Continued_. + +VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD, BY CAPTAIN GEORGE SHELVOCKE, IN 1719-1722. + + + +SECTION V. + +_Voyage from California to Canton in China_. + +We fell in with the coast of California on the 11th of August, and +as soon as we were discovered by the natives, they made fires on the +shore as we sailed past. Towards evening, two of them came off on a +bark log, and were with difficulty induced to come on board. Seeing +our negroes standing promiscuously among the whites, they angrily +separated them from us, and would hardly suffer them to look at us. +They then made signs for us to sit down, after which one of them put +himself into strange postures, talking to us with great vehemence, and +seeming to be in a transport of extacy, running from one to the +other of us with great vehemence, continually singing, speaking, and +running, till quite out of breath. Night coming on, they were for +departing, when we gave them a knife and an old coat each, with which +they were much pleased, and invited us by signs to go on shore along +with them. On the 13th, we were near Porto Leguro, whence some of the +natives came out to meet us on bark-logs, while others made fires, +as if to welcome us, on the tops of hills and rocks near the sea, all +seemingly rejoiced to see us; those on shore running up and down +to each other, and those on the bark-logs paddling with all their +strength to meet us. + +No sooner was our anchor down than they came off to us in crowds, some +off bark-logs, but most of them swimming, all the while talking and +calling to each other confusedly. In an instant our ship was full of +these swarthy gentry, all quite naked. Among the rest was their +king or chief; who was no way distinguishable from the rest by any +particular ornament, or even by any deference paid to him by his +people, his only ensign of sovereignty being a round black stick of +hard wood, about two feet and a half long. This being observed by some +of our people, they brought him to me, and concluding that I was the +chief of the ship, he delivered his black sceptre to me in a handsome +manner, which I immediately returned. Notwithstanding his savage +appearance, this man had a good countenance, and there was something +dignified in his manner and behaviour. I soon found a way to regale +them, by setting before them abundance of our choicest Peruvian +conserves, with which they seemed much gratified. They were +accommodated with spoons, mostly silver, all of which they very +honestly returned. + +Having thus commenced friendship with the natives, I sent an officer +ashore to view the watering-place; and, to make him the more welcome, +I sent with him some coarse blue baize and some sugar, to distribute +among the women. On seeing our boat ready to put off, the king was +for accompanying her in his bark-log, but I persuaded him to go in the +boat, with which he seemed to be much gratified. The remainder of +the day was spent with our wild visitors, who behaved in general very +quietly. The officer returned with an account of having been very +civilly received, and we prepared our casks for being sent ashore next +morning. Although, at first view, the country and inhabitants might +dissuade us from venturing freely among them, I had formerly read such +accounts of these people, that I was under no apprehension of being +molested in wooding and watering. The Californians, however, appeared +very terrible to our negroes, insomuch, that one of them, who +accompanied the officer on shore, was afraid to stir from the boat, +and held an axe constantly in his hand, to defend himself in case of +being attacked. On the approach of night, all the Indians swam ashore, +leaving us a clear ship, after the fatigues of the day. + +Next morning, at day-break, our boat went ashore with the people +appointed to cut wood and fill our water-casks; and before the sun was +up, our ship was again filled with our former guests, who seemed +never satisfied with gazing at us and every thing about the ship. That +nothing might be wanting to keep up our amity, I sent a large boiler +on shore, with a good store of flour and sugar, and a negro cook, who +continually boiled hasty-pudding, to serve the numerous guests on the +beach. At first the natives remained idle spectators of our labours; +but at length, taking compassion to see our few men labouring hard in +rolling great casks of water over the heavy sand in the sultry heat +of the day, they put forth their hands to help them, encouraged by the +particular readiness of their chief to serve us; for, after seeing Mr +Randal take up a log of wood to carry to the boat, he took up another, +and was immediately followed by two or three hundred of the natives, +so that they eased our men mightily. They also rolled our casks down +to the beach, but always expected a white man to assist them, though +quite satisfied if he only touched the cask with his finger. This +eased our men of a great deal of fatigue, and shortened the time of +our stay at this place. We even found means to make those who used to +stay all day on board, of some use to us; for, when we came to heel +the ship, we crowded them, all over on one side, which, with other +shifts, gave her a deep heel, while we cleaned and paid her bottom +with pitch and tallow. + +The natives seemed every day more and more attached to us. When our +boat went ashore in the morning, there was constantly a large retinue +in waiting on the beach for our people, and particularly for those +whom they guessed to be above the common rank, by their better dress. +By this time, the news of our arrival had spread through all the +neighbouring parts, and some natives of different tribes from that +which dwelt about the bay, came daily to visit us. Those who came +from any distance in the inland country could not swim, and were +differently painted, besides some other visible distinctions; but +all united amicably to assist us, and hardly any were idle except the +women, who used to sit in circles on the scorching sand, waiting for +their shares of what was going forwards, which they received without +any quarrelling among themselves about the inequality of distribution. +Having completed our business in five days, we prepared for our +departure on the 18th August, and employed that morning in making a +large distribution of sugar among the women, and gave a great many +knives, old axes, and old iron among the men, being the most valuable +presents we could make them; and, in return, they gave us bows and +arrows, deer-skin bags, live foxes and squirrels, and the like. That +we might impress them with awe of our superior power, we saluted them +with five guns on loosing our top-sails, which greatly frightened +them, and there seemed an universal damp on their spirits on seeing +our sails loosed, as sorry for our approaching departure. The women +were all in tears when my people were coming off to the ship; and many +of the men remained till we were under sail, and then leapt into the +sea with sorrowful countenances. + +Having made some stay in California, some account of that country and +its inhabitants may be expected; though I believe a complete discovery +of its extent and boundaries would produce few real advantages, except +satisfying the curious. That part of California which I saw, being the +southern extremity of its western coast, appears mountainous, barren, +and sandy, much like some parts of Peru: yet the soil about Porto +Leguro, and most likely in the other vallies, is a rich black mould, +and when turned up fresh to the sun, appears as if intermingled with +gold-dust. We endeavoured to wash and purify some of this, and the +more this was done, the more it appeared like gold. In order to be +farther satisfied, I brought away some of this earth, but it was +afterwards lost in our confusions in China. However this may be, +California probably abounds in metals of all sorts, though the natives +had no ornaments or utensils of any metal, which is not to be wondered +at, as they are perfectly ignorant of all arts. + +The country has plenty of wood, but the trees are very small, hardly +better than bushes. But woods, which are an ornament to most other +countries, serve only to make this appear the more desolate; for +locusts swarm here in such numbers, that they do not leave a +green leaf on the trees. In the day, these destructive insects are +continually on the wing in clouds, and are extremely troublesome by +flying in, one's face. In shape and size they greatly resemble our +green grasshoppers, but are of a yellow colour. Immediately after we +cast anchor, they came off in such numbers, that the sea around the +ship was covered with their dead bodies. By their incessant ravages, +the whole country round Porto Leguro was stripped totally naked, +notwithstanding the warmth of the climate and the richness of the +soil. Believing that the natives are only visited with this plague at +this season of the year, I gave them a large quantity of calavances, +and shewed them how they were sown. The harbour of Porto Leguro is +about two leagues to the N.E. of Cape St Lucas, being a good and safe +port, and very convenient for privateers when cruizing for the Manilla +ship. The watering-place is on the north side of the bay or harbour, +being a small river which there flows into the sea, and may easily be +known by the appearance of a great quantity of green canes growing +in it, which always retain their verdure, not being touched by the +locusts, as these canes probably contain, something noxious to that +voracious insect. + +The men of this country are tall, straight, and well set, having large +limbs, with coarse black hair, hardly reaching to their shoulders. The +women are of much smaller size, having much longer hair than the men, +with which some of them almost cover their faces. Some of both sexes +have good countenances; but all are much darker-complexioned than +any of the other Indians I saw in the South Seas, being a very deep +copper-colour. The men go quite naked, wearing only a few trifles by +way of ornament, such as a band or wreath of red and white silk-grass +round their heads, adorned on each side with a tuft of hawk's +feathers. Others have pieces of mother-of-pearl and small shells +fastened among their hair, and tied round their necks; and some had +large necklaces of six or seven strings, composed of small red and +black berries. Some are scarified all over their bodies; others use +paint, some smearing their faces and breasts with black, while others +were painted black down to the navel, and from thence to the feet with +red. + +The women wear a thick fringe or petticoat of silk-grass, reaching +from their middle to their heels, and have a deer-skin carelessly +thrown over their shoulders. Some of the better sort have a cloak of +the skin of some large bird, instead of the bear-skins. Though the +appearance of the Californians is exceedingly savage, yet, from what +I could observe of their behaviour to each other, and their deportment +towards us, they seem to possess all imaginable humanity. All the time +we were there, and constantly among many hundreds of them, there +was nothing to be seen but the most agreeable harmony, and most +affectionate behaviour to each other. When any of us gave any thing +eatable to one person, he always divided it among all who were around +him, reserving the smallest share to himself. They seldom walked +singly, but mostly in pairs, hand in hand. They seemed of meek +and gentle dispositions, having no appearance of cruelty in their +countenances or behaviour, yet seemed haughty towards their women. +They lead a careless life, having every thing in common, and seemed to +desire nothing beyond the necessaries of life. They never once offered +to pilfer or steal any of our tools or other utensils; and such was +their honesty, that my men having forgotten their axes one day on +shore, while cutting wood, which was noticed by one of the natives, he +told it to the king, who sent into the wood for the axes, and restored +them with much apparent satisfaction. + +Their language is guttural and harsh, and they talk a great deal, but +I could never understand a single word they spoke. Their dwellings +were very mean, being scarcely sufficient to shelter them. Their diet +is, I believe, mostly fish, which they frequently eat raw, but they +sometimes bake it in the sand. They seldom want abundance of this +food, as the men go out to sea on their bark-logs, and are very expert +harponiers. Their harpoons are made of hard wood, and with these +they strike the largest albicores, and bring them ashore on their +bark-logs, which they row with double paddles. This seemed strange +to us, who had often experienced the strength of these fish; for +frequently when we had hold of one of these with very large hooks, +made fast to eight-strand twine, we had to bring the ship to, to bring +them in, and it was then as much as eight or ten men could do; so that +one would expect, when an Indian had struck one of these fish, +from his light float, it would easily run away with the man and the +bark-log; but they have some sleight in their way of management, by +which the strength and struggling of these fish are all in vain. There +are hardly any birds to be seen in this country except a few pelicans. + +When the Californians want to drink, they wade into the river, up to +their middles, where they take up the water in their hands, or stoop +down and suck it with their mouths. Their time is occupied between +hunting, fishing, eating, and sleeping; and having abundant exercise, +and rather a spare diet, their lives are ordinarily prolonged to +considerable age, many of both sexes appearing to be very old, by +their faces being much wrinkled, and their hair very grey. Their bows +are about six feet long, with strings made of deer's sinews, but their +arrows seemed too long for their bows; and considering that they have +no adequate tools, these articles must require much time in making. +The shafts of their arrows consist of a hollow cane, for two-thirds of +their length, the other third, or head, being of a heavy kind of wood, +edged with flint, or sometimes agate, and the edges notched like a +saw, with a very sharp point. They made no display of their arms to +us, and we seldom saw any in their hands, though they have need of +some arms to defend themselves from wild beasts, as I saw some men who +had been severely hurt in that way, particularly one old man, who +had his thigh almost torn in pieces by a tiger or lion, and though, +healed, it was frightfully scarred. The women commonly go into the +woods with bows and arrows in search of game, while the men are +chiefly occupied in fishing. I can say nothing respecting their +government, except that it did not seem any way strict or rigorous. +When the king appeared in public, he was usually attended by many +couples, or men walking hand in hand, two and two together. On the +first morning of our arrival, he was seen in this manner coming out of +a wood, and noticing one of my officers cutting down a tree, whom +he judged to be better than ordinary, by having silver lace on his +waistcoat, be shewed both his authority and civility at the same time, +by ordering one of his attendants to take the axe and work in his +stead. + +One day while we were there, a prodigious flat fish was seen basking +in the sun on the surface of the water near the shore, on which twelve +Indians swam off and surrounded him. Finding himself disturbed, the +fish dived, and they after him, but he escaped from them at this time. +He appeared again in about an hour, when sixteen or seventeen Indians +swam off and encompassed him; and, by continually tormenting him, +drove, him insensibly ashore. On grounding, the force with which he +struck the ground with his fins is not to be expressed, neither can +I describe the agility with which the Indians strove to dispatch +him, lest the surf should set him again afloat, which they at length +accomplished with the help of a dagger lent them by Mr Randal. They +then cut him into pieces, which were distributed among all who stood +by. This fish, though of the flat kind, was very thick, and had a +large hideous mouth, being fourteen or fifteen feet broad, but not +quite so much in length. + +On the 18th August, 1721, we set sail from Porto Leguro, bound for +Canton in China, as a likely place for meeting with some English +ships, in which we might procure a passage home. Considering the +length of the voyage before us, our ship was in a very bad condition, +as her sails and rigging were so old and rotten, that if any accident +had befallen our masts or sails, we had been reduced to extreme +distress and danger, having no change either of sails or ropes; but +ours being a case of necessity, we had to run all hazards, and to +endeavour, by the utmost attention, to guard against deficiencies +which could not be supplied. Having already overcome many +difficulties, seemingly insurmountable in prospect, we were full +of hope to get over these also, and the pleasing expectation of +revisiting our native shores gave us spirits to encounter this tedious +navigation in so weak and comfortless a condition. We were now so +weakly manned, that we could scarcely have been able to navigate our +vessel without the assistance of the negroes, not amounting now +to thirty whites, so much had our crew been reduced by untoward +accidents. + +We discovered an island on the 21st, 110 leagues W.S.W. from Cape St +Lucas,[1] but as the wind blew fresh, I could not get nearer than two +leagues, and did not think proper to lose time in laying-to in the +night. It seemed seven or eight leagues in circumference, having a +large bay on its S.W. side, in the middle of which was a high rock. My +people named this Shelvocke's island. From hence we shelved, down to +the latitude of 13 deg. N. but were stopped two or three days by westerly +winds, which we did not expect in this sea, especially as being +now five or six hundred leagues from the land. The trade-wind again +returning, we kept in the parallel of 13 deg. N. except when we judged +that we were near the shoals of St Bartholomew, and then haled a +degree more to the north, and so continued for sixty or seventy +leagues. A fortnight after leaving California, my people, who had +hitherto enjoyed uninterrupted health, began to be afflicted with +sickness, particularly affecting their stomachs, owing doubtless to +the great quantities of sweetmeats they were continually devouring, +and also to oar common food, chiefly composed of puddings made of +coarse flour and sweetmeats, mixed up with sea-water, together with +jerked beef, most of which was destroyed by ants, cockroaches, and +other vermin. We could not afford to boil the kettle once in the whole +passage with fresh water, so that the crew became reduced to a +very melancholy state by scurvy and other distempers. The sickness +increased upon us every day, so that we once buried two in one day, +the armourer and carpenter's, mate, besides whom the carpenter, +gunner, and several others died, together with some of our best +negroes. + +[Footnote 1: Probably La Nablada, in lat. 18 deg. 55' N. long. 180 deg. 48' +E.] + +The greatest part of my remaining people were disabled, and our ship +very leaky; and to add to our misfortunes, one of our pumps split and +became useless. Under these unhappy circumstances, we pushed forwards +with favourable gales till within 80 leagues of Guam, one of the +Ladrones, when we encountered dismal weather and tempestuous winds, +veering round the compass. This was the more frightful, as we were +unable to help ourselves, not above six or seven, being able for duty, +though necessity obliged even those who were extremely low and weak +to lend what help they could. In the boisterous sea raised by these +gales, our ship so laboured that the knee of her head, and her whole +beak-head, became loose, so that the boltsprit fetched away and played +with every motion of the ship, and so continued all the rest of +the time we were at sea. For some time our main-mast stood without +larboard shrouds, till we could unlay our best cable to make more, +having knotted and spliced the old shrouds till our labour was in +vain. In the midst of these difficulties, I was taken very ill, and +had little expectations of living much longer, till the gout gave me +some painful hopes of recovery. + +In the beginning of October, we made the island of Guam, 100 leagues +short of the account given by Rogers, who makes 105 deg. of longitude +between Cape St Lucas and Guam, while we made not quite 100 deg..[2] We +passed through between Guam and Serpana, and saw several flying proas, +but none came near us that day. We had heavy and squally weather, +which obliged me to keep the deck in the rain, by which I caught a +cold, which threw me into a worse condition than before, in which I +continued all the time I was in China. Guam seemed very green and of +moderate height, and the sight of land was so pleasant after our long +run, that we would gladly have stopped to procure some refreshments, +but durst not venture in, though on the point of perishing, lest the +inhabitants should take advantage of our weakness. From Guam I shaped +our course for the island of Formosa, to which we had a long and +melancholy voyage, as our sickness daily increased; so that, on the 3d +November, when we got sight of that island, both ship and company +were almost entirely worn out. Next day we doubled the south Cape of +Formosa, passing within a league of the rocks of _Vele-Rete_, where +we were sensible of a very strong current. As we passed in sight, the +inhabitants of Formosa made continual fires on the coast, as inviting +us to land; but we were so weak that we did not deem it prudent to +venture into any of their harbours. + +[Footnote 2: Rogers is however nearer the truth, the difference of +longitude being 106 deg. 42' between these two places.--E.] + +We directed our course from Formosa for the neighbouring coast of +China, and found ourselves on the 6th at the mouth of the river +_Loma_,[3] in twelve fathoms water, but the weather was so hazy that +we could not ascertain where we were. Seeing abundance of fishing +boats, we tried every method we could think of to induce some of +the fishermen to come on board to pilot us to Macao, but found +this impracticable, as we could not understand each other. We were +therefore obliged to keep the land close on board, and to anchor +every evening. This was a prodigious fatigue to our men, who were so +universally ill that we could hardly find any one able to steer +the ship. We were bewildered in a mist during four days, and much +surprised by seeing a great many islands, omitted in our charts, on +some of which we saw large fortifications. This made us believe +that the current had carried us beyond our port, and occasioned much +dejection of spirits; for, though the sea was covered with fishing +boats, we could get no one to set us right, or to give us any +directions we could understand. + +[Footnote 3: This name is so corrupted as to be unintelligible.--E] + +Towards evening of the 10th, as we were passing through a very narrow +channel between two islands, a fisherman who was near, and observed +by our manner of working that we were afraid to venture through, waved +with his cap for us to bring to till he came to us. When he came, he +seemed to understand that we enquired for Macao, and made signs that +he would carry us there, if we gave him as many pieces of silver as +he counted little fish from his basket, which amounted to forty. We +accordingly counted out forty dollars into a hat, and gave them to +him, on which he came into our ship, and took her in charge, carrying +us through the narrow channel, and brought us to anchor at sun-set. We +weighed next morning, and kept the coast of China close on board. By +noon we were abreast of Pulo Lantoon, whence we could see two English +ships under sail, passing the island of Macao on their way from the +river of Canton. They kept on their way, taking no notice of us, which +struck a damp into our spirits, fearing we should miss a passage for +England this season. In the afternoon of next day, we anchored in +the road of Macao, near the entrance of Canton river, which we never +should have found out by any of our charts. + +I was much amazed at the incorrectness with which these coasts are +laid down, to the eastwards of Pulo Lantoon; as there runs a cluster +of islands for upwards of twenty leagues in that direction, which are +not in the least noticed by any of our hydrographers, nor have I ever +met with any navigator who knew any thing about them. The coast of +China, within these islands, is rocky, mountainous, and barren; +but, owing to my heavy sickness, I was unable to make any useful +observations. + + + +SECTION VI. + +_Residence in China, and Voyage thence to England._ + +As Macao is the place where ships always stop for a pilot to carry +them up the river of Canton, I sent an officer with my compliments +to the governor, and with orders to bring off a pilot; but +hearing nothing of him till next morning, I was under very great +apprehensions. Next morning, a great number of the people belonging +to the Success came off to our ship, and acquainted me that Clipperton +had left me designedly. About noon this day, the 12th November, +1721, a pilot came off to us, when we immediately weighed anchor, and +immediately entered Canton river, being assured that there still were +some European ships at Wampoo, about ten miles short of Canton. We +were four days in plying up to the road between the tower bars, where +we anchored; and, finding the Bonetta and Hastings, two English +ships, I sent an officer to request their instructions how to conduct +ourselves in this port, and to acquaint us with its customs. They +answered, that the Cadogan and Francis, two English European ships, +were lying at Wampoo, and advised me to send up to the English factors +at Canton, to acquaint them with our arrival, and the reasons which +obliged us to come here. This I accordingly did next day, borrowing +one of their flags to hoist as our boat, without which we had met with +much trouble from the _Hoppo-men_, or custom-house officers. I sent +letters to the captains of the English ships, signifying the necessity +which forced me to this country, and requesting their succour and +protection; assuring them that I acted under his majesty's commission, +which also I sent, for their perusal. Next morning, being the 17th, I +weighed and worked up to Wampoo, where, besides the two English ships, +I found three belonging to France, one Ostender, and a small ship from +Manilla. + +I was here in hopes of all my troubles being at an end, and that I +should have full leisure for rest and refreshment after my many and +great fatigues; but I soon found these expectations ill grounded, +and after all my perils, that I was fallen into others least to be +endured, as proceeding from false brethren. A most unlucky accident +happened the very evening that we anchored at Wampoo, which gave birth +to all the troubles I encountered in India; though, in respect to +me, both unforeseen and unavoidable, and purely the effects of that +eagerness in the ship's company to get out of this part of the world +at any rate. Had there been any government among the English settled +here, to have supported my authority, this unlucky business had never +happened; and, as it was, could only be imputed to nothing but the +want of such an establishment. One of my men, named David Griffith, +being in a hurry to remove his effects into the Bonetta's boat, in +which he was chased by a _Hoppo_ or custom-house boat; and being a +little in liquor, and fearing to lose his silver, fired a musket and +killed the Hoppo-man or custom-house officer. Early next morning, the +dead body was laid at the door of the English factory, where Chinese +officers lay in wait to seize the first Englishman that should come +out. A supercargo belonging to the Bonetta happened to be the first; +he was immediately seized and carried off, and afterwards led in +chains about the suburbs of Canton. All that could be said or done +by the most considerable Chinese merchants who were in correspondence +with the English, was of no avail. In the mean time, my man, who had +slain the Chinese officer, and another, were put in irons aboard +the Francis, which was _chopped_, or seized, till the guilty man +was delivered up. He was then carried to Canton in chains, and the +supercargo was released. + +I had not been here many days, when I was deserted by all my officers +and men, who were continually employed in removing their effects from +my ship to some of the European ships, without my knowledge, I being +then confined to bed. My officers were using all their efforts to +engage the gentlemen belonging to the company in their interest, and +had only left my son and a few negroes to look after the ship, and +to defend my effects, which were on the brink of falling into the +bottomless pit of Chinese avarice; besides, they and the ship's +company had so many ways of disposing of every thing they could lay +their hands on, that I found it impossible to oblige them to do what +I thought justice to our owners: They all soon recovered from +their illness, and they all became their own masters. There were no +magistrates for me to appeal to on shore, who would aid me so far as +to compel them to remain in my ship; and the officers commanding +the English ships could not afford me the help they might have been +inclined to give, lest the supercargoes might represent their conduct +to the East India Company. And these last, who superintend the English +trade at this port, seemed even inclined to have refused me a passage +in one of their ships, and even treated me as one enemy would treat +another in a neutral port; looking on me in that light for presuming +to come within the limits of the Company, without considering the +necessity by which I had been compelled to take that step. + +When Captains Hill and Newsham came to visit me, they were astonished +at the ruinous condition of my ship, and could scarcely think it +possible for her to have made so long a passage. The rottenness of her +cordage, and the raggedness of her sails, filled them with surprise +and pity for my condition. When I had given them a short history of +the voyage, and requested they would receive my officers and company, +with their effects, they at once said, That they saw plainly my ship +was in no condition to be carried any farther, and they were willing +to receive us all as soon as we pleased, on payment of our passage. +But the supercargoes were displeased that I had not applied to them, +as they are the chief men here, though only passengers when aboard; so +that I was quite neglected, and the English captains were ordered to +fall down with their ships five or six miles below where I lay. I was +thus left destitute in the company of five foreign ships; yet their +officers, seeing me deserted by my countrymen, kindly offered me their +services, and assisted me as much as they could, and without them +I know not what might have been my fate, as I was under perpetual +apprehensions that the Chinese would have seized my ship. + +After the murder of the custom-house officer seemed to have been quite +forgotten, a magistrate, called a _Little Mandarin_, committed the +following outrageous action:--At the beginning of the troubles, +occasioned by that murder, he had received orders to apprehend all the +English he could find, which he neglected till all was over. He then +one day, while passing the European factories, ordered his attendants +to seize on all the English he could see in the adjoining shops, and +took hold of nine or ten, French as well as English, whom he carried, +with halters about their necks, to the palace of the _Chantock_, or +viceroy. Application was then made to the _Hoppo_, or chief customer, +who represented matters to the viceroy in favour of the injured +Europeans; on which the mandarin was sent for, and being unable to +vindicate himself was degraded from his post, subjected to the bamboo, +a severe punishment, and rendered incapable of acting again as a +magistrate; the Europeans being immediately liberated. It appears to +me, however, that the English are tyrannized over by the Chinese, and +exposed to the caprices of every magistrate, wherefore I was the more +urgent to be on board one of the European ships. I had now discovered +my error in addressing the captains, and now sent a letter to the +supercargoes, demanding a passage for myself, my officers, and +ship's company, which I was sensible they could not refuse: but their +compliance was clogged with a charge to the captains not to receive +any thing belonging to us, unless consigned to the company in England. + +The hoppo now made a demand upon me for anchorage in the river, +amounting to no less than 6000 _tahel_, and, to quicken the payment, +annexed a penalty to this extortion of 500 _tahel_ for every day +the payment was delayed. There were no means to avoid this gross +imposition; and though a day necessarily elapsed before I could +send up the money, I had to add the penalty of that day, so that he +received 6500 _tahel_, or L. 2166:13:4 sterling;[4] being about six +times as much as was paid for the Cadogan, the largest English ship +there at the time, and which measured a third larger than mine. I soon +after sold my ship for 2000 tahel, or L. 666, 13s. 4d. sterling, which +money was consigned to the India Company, along with all the rest of +my effects, and I prevailed on most of my officers and men to take +their passage in the English homeward-bound ships. + +[Footnote 4: At these proportions, the Chinese _tahel_ is exactly 6s. +8d. sterling.--E.] + +Considering my short stay in China, and my bad health, I cannot be +expected to give any tolerable account of this place from my own +observation, and to copy others would be inconsistent with the purpose +of this narrative, so that I shall only observe, that the English, at +this time, had no settled factory at Canton, being only permitted +to hire large houses, called _hongs_, with convenient warehouses +adjoining, for receiving their goods previous to their shipment. For +these they pay rent to the proprietors, and either hire the same or +others, as they think proper, next time they have occasion for the +accommodation. + +Notwithstanding my utmost diligence, the business I was engaged in +kept me in a continual hurry till the ships were ready to depart, +which was in December, 1721: At which time, heartily tired of the +country, and the ill usage I had met with, I sailed in the Cadogan, +Captain John Hall, in company with the Francis, Captain Newsham; and +as the latter ship sailed much better than the Cadogan, she left us +immediately after getting out to sea. Finding his ship very tender, or +crank, Captain Hill put in at Batavia, to get her into better trim. We +continued here about ten days; but I can say little about that place, +being all the time unable to stand on my legs, and was only twice out +in a coach to take the air, two or three miles out of the city, in +which little excursion I saw a great variety of beautiful prospects of +fine country seats and gardens, and, indeed, every thing around shewed +the greatest industry. The buildings in the city are generally very +handsome, and laid out in very regular streets, having canals running +through most of them, with trees planted on each side, so that Batavia +may justly be called a fine city: But the sight is the only sense that +is gratified here, for the canals smell very offensively when the tide +is low, and breed vast swarms of muskitoes, which are more troublesome +here than in any place I was ever in. + +A great part of the inhabitants of Batavia are Chinese, who are +remarkable for wearing there their ancient dress, having their hair +rolled up in such a manner that there is little difference in that +respect between the men and women. Ever since the revolution in China, +which brought that country under the Tartar yoke, the Tartarian +dress has been imposed upon the whole kingdom, which was not +effected without great bloodshed: For many of the Chinese were +so superstitiously attached to their ancient modes, that they +unaccountably chose rather to lose their lives than their hair; as the +Tartar fashion is to shave the head, except a long lock on the crown, +which they plait in the same manner we do. The Dutch, taking advantage +of this superstitious attachment of the Chinese to their hair, exact +from all the men who live under their protection, a poll-tax of a +dollar a month for the liberty of wearing their hair, which produces a +very considerable revenue. + +Hearing at Batavia that there were several pirates in these seas, +Captain Hill joined the Dutch homeward-bound fleet in Bantam bay, and +the Dutch commodore promised to assist Captain Hill in wooding and +watering at _Mew_ island, the water at Batavia being very bad. We fell +in with the Francis in the Straits of Sunda, though we imagined that +ship had been far a-head. The Dutch made this a pretence for leaving +us before we got to Mew island, and Captain Newsham also deserted +us, so that we were left alone. We continued six or seven days at +Mew island, during which time several boats came to us from Prince's +island, and brought us turtle, cocoa-nuts, pine-apples, and other +fruits. From Mew island we had a very pleasant voyage to and about the +Cape of Good Hope. By the good management of Captain Hill, although +the Francis and the Dutch ships had the start of us seven days, by +deserting us in the Straits of Sunda, we yet got to the cape seven +days before the Francis, though she sailed considerably better than +we. By comparing notes with the officers of the Francis, we found that +she had suffered a good deal of bad weather off the south of Africa, +while we, by keeping about ten leagues nearer shore, continually +enjoyed pleasant weather and a fair wind, till we anchored in Table +Bay, which we did towards the end of March, 1722. + +We here found Governor Boon and others, bound for England in the +London Indiaman. We had a pleasant voyage from the cape to St Helena, +and thence to England, arriving off the Land's-end towards the close +of July. On coming into the British channel we had brisk gales from +the west, with thick foggy weather. In the evening of the 30th July we +anchored under Dungeness, and that same night some of the supercargoes +and passengers, among whom I was one, hired a small vessel to carry +us to Dover, where we arrived the next morning early. The same day we +proceeded for London, and arrived there on the 1st August, 1722. Thus +ended a long, fatiguing, and unfortunate voyage, of _three years, +seven months, and eleven days_, in which I had sailed considerably +more than round the circumference of the globe, and had undergone a +great variety of troubles and hardships by sea and land. + + + +SECTION VII. + +_Supplement to the foregoing Voyage._ + +In the Collection of Harris, besides interweaving several +controversial matters respecting this voyage, from an account of it by +one Betagh, who was captain of marines in the Speedwell, a long series +of remarks on the conduct of Shelvocke by that person, are appended. +Neither of these appear to possess sufficient interest, at this +distance of time, almost a century, to justify their insertion in +our collection, where they would have very uselessly occupied a +considerable space. Captain Betagh appears to have been actuated by +violent animosity against Captain Shelvocke, whose actions he traduced +and misrepresented with the utmost malignity, the innocent cause of +his having suffered captivity among the Spaniards in South America, +of which some account will be found in the subsequent section. Of +all these charges, we have only deemed it expedient to insert the +following statement of the circumstances connected with the capture +of the Conception, as related by Betagh, which Harris, I. 230, +characterizes as "a very extraordinary piece of recent history, and +seemingly supported by evidence;" but at this distance of time we have +no means of ascertaining to which side the truth belongs.--_Ed._ + +"This being the great crisis of the voyage, I shall be more particular +in relating the affair of this last prize. This ship was named the +Conception, Don _Stephen de Recova_ commander,[1] bound from Calao to +Panama, having on board several persons of distinction, particularly +the Conde de la Rosa, who had been some time governor of Pisco, +and was now going to Spain, laden with flour, sugar, marmalade, _et +cetera_. Now, be it known to all men, that the _et cetera_ was 108,630 +pieces of eight, or Spanish dollars: And Shelvocke little thought, +when he took this prize, or compiled his book, that I, of all men, +should have the exact state of this affair. He often said that he +would give the gentlemen owners a fair account; and I have often +promised to prove that he did say so. We have now both made our +words good, and I have not only an authentic account, but I will also +declare how I got it. + +[Footnote 1: Shelvocke who certainly ought to have known best, names +the ship the Conception de Recova, and her commander Don Joseph +Desorio.--E.] + +"When I was carried prisoner to Lima, I had sufficient leisure to +reflect on my misfortunes, and how likely I was to be ruined and +the owners cheated; wherefore, to prepare them to defend their just +rights, I wrote to one of them the substance of what had occurred +to me; how Shelvocke had mismanaged; how arbitrarily he had acted in +defiance of their articles, and what were his private intentions in +the latter part of the voyage. As soon as I came to London, which was +in October, 1721, I confirmed the report of my letter with several +new circumstances; for all which performance of my duty, it is, as +I suppose, that my name has met with so much reproach in Captain +Shelvocke's book. But, besides my advices, the gentlemen owners had +many proofs from prisoners and other people. Eleven months after me, +being August, 1722, Shelvocke himself arrived, and immediately waited +on the gentlemen in the lump for all his transactions; not owning any +thing of this prize, which he had unlawfully shared, with every thing +else, among twenty-three of his men. Instead of compromising the +matter, the gentlemen read him a letter, secured him, and had him +the same day confined in _Wood-street Compter_. A few days after, his +pupil, Stewart, arrived at Dover, and was seized by the honest warden +of the castle, according to directions, securing also his book of +accounts, and brought it along with the prisoner to the owners, from +whom I had the book, and copied from it the following statement of the +dividends:-- + +Names. Quality Number Dollars Eng. + of Money. + Shares + +George Shelvocke Captain 6 14,325 2642 10 0 +Samuel Rundal Lieutenant 2-1/2| +John Rainer Cap. Marines 2-1/2| +Blowfield Coldsea Master 2-1/2|---4718 1100 17 4 +Nicholas Adams Surgeon 2-1/2| each +Mathew Stewart First mate 2| +Monsieur La Porte Second mate 2| +George Henshall Boatswain 2|-------3775 880 16 8 +Robert Davenport Carpenter 2| each +William Clark Gunner 2| +James Daniel Midshipman 1-1/2| +David Griffith Ditto 1-1/2| +Christopher Hawkins Ditto 1-1/2| +Oliver Lefevre Sail-maker 1-1/2| +John Doydge Surgeon's | + mate 1-1/2| +William Morgan Ditto 1-1/2|---2850 660 0 0 +John Popplestone Armourer 1-1/2| each +James Moyett Cooper 1-1/2| +John Pearson Carpenter's 1-1/2| + mate | +Geo. Shelvocke, jun. 1-1/2| +William Clement Able seaman 1| +John Norris Ditto 1| +James Moulville Ditto 1| +George Gill Ditto 1| +Peter Fero Ditto 1|-------1887-1/4 440 7 2 +John Smith Ditto 1| each +Edward Alcocke Ditto 1| +John Theobald Barber 1| +William Burrows Old seaman 3/4 +Daniel M'Donald Ditto 3/4 +Richard Croft Ditto 3/4 +John Robbins Grommet, 1/2| + or boy |----943-1/4 220 4 2 +Benedict Harry Cook 1/2| each +------------------------------------------------------------------ +33 persons in all 52-1/4 98,604-2/3 23,007 15 6 + +"The reader will perceive that the sum total of this dividend falls +short of what I said the capture amounted to; but, in order to set +that matter right, there is a secret article of 627 quadruples of +gold, which Shelvocke graciously shared among private friends, each +quadruple, or double doubloon; being worth sixteen dollars each, or L. +3:14:8 sterling, at 4s. 8d. the dollar. The value of these is 10,032 +dollars, which, added to the sum of the foregoing account, make +108,636-3/4 dollars, or L. 25,348:11:6 sterling in all. Which large +sum of money Shelvocke had the prodigious modesty to conceal, under +the mysterious _et cetera_. Stewart's book mentions the double +doubloons, but says not a word as to how they were distributed, so +that we may imagine they were sunk between the two Shelvockes and +Stewart: For, as Stewart was agent, cashier, and paymaster, it was an +easy matter to hide a bag of gold from the public, and to divide it +afterwards in a committee of two or three."--_Betagh._ + + + +SECTION VIII. + +_Appendix to Shelvocke's Voyage round the World. Containing +Observations on the Country and Inhabitants of Peru, by Captain +Betagh._[1] + +[Footnote 1: Harris, I. 240.] + +INTRODUCTION. + +This article may rather seem misplaced, as here inserted among the +circumnavigations; but, both as having arisen out of the voyage of +Shelvocke, and because arranged in this manner by Harris, it has been +deemed proper and necessary to preserve it in this place, where it +may be in a great measure considered as a supplement to the preceding +voyage. In the opinion of Harris, "The time that Betagh lived among +the Spaniards in Peru, and the manner in which he was treated by them, +gave him an opportunity of acquainting himself with their manners and +customs, and with the nature and maxims of their government, such as +no Englishman had possessed; and the lively manner in which he tells +his story, gives it much beauty and spirit." We have already seen, in +the narrative of Shelvocke, the occasion of Betagh separating from his +commander, along with Hately and a complement of men in the Mercury, +on which occasion Shelvocke alleged that they purposely separated from +him, in consequence of taking a prize containing 150,000 dollars. In +the following narrative, Betagh tells his own story very differently, +and we do not presume to determine between them. The separation of +Shelvocke originally from his own superior officer, Clipperton, is not +without suspicion; and Hately and Betagh may have learnt from their +commander, to endeavour to promote their own individual interests, at +the expense of their duty, already weakened by bad example.--_Ed_. + +Sec. 1. _PARTICULARS OF THE CAPTURE OF THE MERCURY BY THE SPANIARDS_. + +It was in the beginning of the year 1720, about the middle of March, +when Captain Shelvocke sent Hately and the rest of us to seek our +fortunes in the lighter called the Mercury. He then went in the +Speedwell to plunder the village of Payta, where we might easily have +joined him, had he been pleased to have imparted his design to us. +We had not cruized long off Cape Blanco, when we took a small bark, +having a good quantity of flour and chocolate. There were also on +board an elderly lady, and a thin old friar, whom we detained two +or three days; and, after taking out what could be of use to us, we +discharged the bark and them. Soon after this we took the Pink, which +Shelvocke calls the rich prize. Her people had no suspicion of our +being an enemy, and held on their way till they saw the Mercury +standing towards them, and then began to suspect us; on which, about +noon, they clapt their helm hard a-weather, and crowded all sail +before the wind; and, being in ballast, this was her best sailing, yet +proved also the greatest advantage they could have given us; for, had +she held her wind, our flat-bottomed vessel could never have got up +with theirs. About ten o'clock at night, with the assistance of hard +rowing, we got up within shot of the chase, and made her bring to, +when pretty near the shore. On boarding the prize, in which were +about seventy persons, thirty of whom were negroes, Hately left me and +Pressick in the Mercury, with other four, where we continued two or +three days, till a heavy rain spoiled all our bread and other dry +provisions. We then went on board the prize, sending three men to take +charge of the Mercury. + +After this, we stood off and on in the height of Cape Blanco for seven +or eight days, expecting to meet with the Speedwell; and at that +place we sent ashore the Spanish Captain, a padre or priest, and some +gentlemen passengers. At last we espied a sail plying to windward; +and, having no doubt that she was either the Speedwell or the Success, +we stood towards her, while she also edged down towards us. About ten +in the morning we were near enough to make her out to be a ship of +war, but neither of these we wished for. The master of our prize had +before informed us, that he had fallen in with the _Brilliante_, +which was cruizing for our privateers, and we had till now entirely +disregarded his information. Upon this, Hately advised with me what +we ought to do in this emergency, when we agreed to endeavour to take +advantage of the information given us by the Spaniards; considering, +as the Brilliante had spoken so very lately with the Pink, that there +might not be many questions asked now. Accordingly, Hately and +I dressed ourselves like Spaniards, and hoisted Spanish colours, +confined all our prisoners in the great cabin, and allowed none but +Indians and negroes to appear on the deck, that the Pink might have +the same appearance as before. We had probably succeeded in this +contrivance, but for the obstinacy of John Sprake, one of our men, +whom we could not persuade to keep off the deck. As the Brilliante +came up, she fired a gun to leeward, on which we lowered our topsail, +going under easy sail till we got alongside. The first question asked +was, If we had seen the English privateer? We answered, No. The next +question was, How we had got no farther on our way to Lima? To +which we answered, By reason of the currents. To two or three other +questions, we answered satisfactorily in Spanish, and they were +getting their tacks aboard in order to leave us, when Sprake and two +or three more of our men appeared on the main deck. A Frenchman aboard +the Brilliante, who was on the mast-head, seeing their long trowsers, +called out, _Par Dieu, Monsieur, ils sont Anglois_, By Heaven, Sir, +they are English: Upon which they immediately fired a broad-side into +us with round and partridge shot, by one of which Hately was slightly +wounded in the leg. + +As soon as we struck our flag, the enemy sent for all the English +on board their ships, and ordered two of their own officers into our +prize. The Brilliante then bore down on the Mercury, into which she +fired at least twenty-five shot, which bored her sides through and +through: Yet such was the construction of that extraordinary vessel, +that, though quite full of water, there was not weight enough to sink +her, and our three men who were in her remained unhurt. Don Pedro +Midrando, the Spanish commander, ordered these three men into his +own ship, in which he intended to sail for Payta. As for me, he gave +directions that I should be sent forty miles up the country, to a +place called _Piura_, and was so kind as to leave Mr Pressick the +surgeon, and my serjeant Cobbs, to bear me company. Mr Hately and +the rest of our men were ordered to Lima by land, a journey of four +hundred miles.[2] Hately had the misfortune to be doubly under the +displeasure of the Spaniards: First, for returning into these seas +after having been long their prisoner, and being well used among them: +And, second, for having stripped the Portuguese captain at Cape Frio +of a good quantity of moidores, which were now found upon him. Don +Pedro proposed to have this business searched to the bottom, and the +guilty severely punished, without exposing the innocent to any danger. + +[Footnote 2: Lima is above six hundred miles from Cape Blanco, and +Piura is about seventy-five miles from the same place. Betagh gives no +account of the place where he landed; but forty miles northwards from +Piura would only carry him to the north side of the bay of Payta; and, +as he makes no mention of passing any river, he was probably landed on +the south side of the river Amatape or Chira.--E.] + +Sec. 2. _OBSERVATIONS MADE BY BETAGH IN THE NORTH OF PERU._ + +Leaving Mr Hately for the present, I proceed to the observations I +made on the road, as the admiral was so good as send me up into the +country, till his return from Payta. As the weather in this part of +the world is much too hot to admit of any labour in the middle of the +day, the custom is to travel only from six in the evening till eight +next morning. My Indian guide set me on the best mule he had, +which did not think proper to follow the rest, so that I led my +fellow-travellers while day lasted. The whole country through which we +travelled was an open plain, having Indian plantations laid out with +tolerable regularity, on both sides of us. This champaign country is +from thirty to an hundred miles broad, and extends three hundred +miles along shore; and I was travelling to the southward, having the +Cordelieras, or mountains of the Andes, on my left hand, and the great +Pacific Ocean to the right. As the soil is good and fertile, this land +would be as fine a country as any in the world, if well watered; but +travellers are here obliged to carry water for their mules as well as +themselves. At the approach of night, I was much puzzled to find the +way, my mule still persisting to go foremost, being often stopped by +great sand hills, and my mule as often endeavoured to pull the reins +out of my hand. This being very troublesome, the Indians advised me +to lay the reins on the mule's neck, and on doing that the creature +easily hit the way. These sand hills often shift from place to place, +which I suppose is occasioned by strong eddy winds, reverberated from +the mountains. + +We rested at night in an old empty house, about half way, which +the guide told me was built by the inhabitants of Piura, for the +accommodation of the prince of San Bueno, viceroy of Peru, when they +met and regaled him at his entrance on his government. After a short +rest, we continued our journey, and arrived at Piura, a handsome +regularly built town, on the banks of the river _Callan_ or _Piura_. +The Indian conducted us to the house of an honest Spanish gentleman +and his wife, to whose charge he committed us, and then returned to +Payta. In less than a quarter of an hour, the inhabitants of the town +flocked to see us, as a raree-show, and entertained us with respect +and civility, instead of using us as prisoners of war. The gentleman +to whose charge we were committed was named Don Jeronimo Baldivieso, +who had five daughters, who received us in so benevolent a manner, +that we hoped our time would slide easily away, and our captivity +prove no way disagreeable; and I now became sensible of the favour +shewn me by Don Pedro in sending me to this place; for he had such +interest in all Peru, that for his sake we found very good treatment. + +After refreshing ourselves, according to the custom of the country, +with chocolate, biscuit, and water, we were serenaded by the sound +of a harp from some inner apartment, of which instrument the artist +seemed to have a good command, as I heard parts of several famous +compositions, both Italian and English. Upon enquiry, I found that +all Don Jeronimo's daughters had learnt music, and sung or played +upon some instrument. Though this seemed unaccountable at first, I +afterwards found that music was much cultivated in Peru. During the +prevalence of the Italian party at the court of Madrid, the last +viceroy of Peru, the prince of San Bueno, who was an Italian, brought +a great many musicians to that country along with him, by whom the +taste for music had spread every where, and had become as good in +Peru as in old Spain. I the rather notice this, because, by our +being lovers of music, and behaving peaceably and civilly to the +inhabitants, we passed our time quietly and chearfully. We were only +exposed to one inconvenience, which lasted all the time we remained +here: which was, the daily assembling of the people to stare at us. +I and my sergeant Cobbs, being used to exercise in public, bore this +pretty well; but Mr Pressick, being a grave man, at first hung down +his head, and was very melancholy. But he grew better acquainted with +the people by degrees, and came to like them so well, that we had much +ado to get him away, when it became necessary for us to remove our +quarters. + +Almost all the commodities of Europe are distributed through Spanish +America by a sort of pedlars, or merchants who travel on foot. These +men come from Panama to Payta by sea; and in their road from Payta +to Lima, make Piura their first stage, disposing of their goods, and +lessening their burdens, as they go along. From Piura, some take the +inland road by Caxamarca, and others the road along the coast through +Truxillo. From Lima they take their passage back to Panama by sea, +perhaps carrying with them a small adventure of brandy. At Panama +they again stock themselves with European goods, and return by sea to +Payta. Here they hire mules to carry their goods, taking Indians along +with them to guide the mules and carry them back: And in this +way these traders keep a continual round, till they have gained a +sufficiency to live on. Their travelling expenses are next to nothing; +as the Indians are under such entire subjection to the Spaniards, +that they always find them in lodgings free, and provide them with +provender for their mules. All this every white man may command, being +an homage the Indians have long been accustomed to, and some think +themselves honoured into the bargain. Yet out of generosity, they +sometimes meet with a small recompense. Among the British and French, +a pedlar is despised, and his employment is considered as a very, mean +shift for getting a living: But it is quite otherwise here, where the +quick return of money is a sufficient excuse for the manner in which +it is gained; and there are many gentlemen in old Spain, in declining +circumstances, who send their sons to what they call _the Indies_, to +retrieve their fortunes in this way. + +Our lodging while at Piura was in an out-house, which had been built +on purpose for accommodating such travelling merchants. Every day, +according to the Spanish custom, our dinner was served up under +covers, and we eat at the same table with Don Jeronimo; while the good +lady of the house and her daughters sat in another room. Any strong +liquors are only used during dinner: And I think the only circumstance +in our conduct that any way disobliged our good host, was once seeing +me drink a dram with the doctor, at a small eating-house; and, as +nothing is more offensive to the Spaniards than drunkenness, I had +much ado to apologise for this step. Yet they admit of gallantry in +the utmost excess, thus only exchanging one enormity for another. + +After remaining about six weeks at Piura, our Indian guide came to +conduct us to Payta, to which place the Brilliante had returned. When +about to take leave, Mr Pressick our surgeon was not to be found, +which detained us a day. They had concealed him in the town, meaning +to have kept him there, being a very useful man; and if he could have +had a small chest of medicines, he might soon have made a handsome +fortune. Next day, however, we mounted our mules, and parted +reluctantly with our kind host and his family. We went on board the +Brilliante at Payta, which had done nothing at sea since we left her, +and now made a sort of cruizing voyage to Calao, the port of Lima. +I have already mentioned the civility I received from Don Pedro +Midranda, who was admiral or general of the South Seas; and I shall +here add one circumstance to the honour of Monsieur de Grange, a +captain under the general. When taken by the Brilliante, the soldiers +stripped us, considering our clothes as the usual perquisite of +conquerors; on which that gentleman generously gave me a handsome suit +of clothes, two pair of silk stockings, shirts, a hat and wig, and +every thing accordant, so that I was rather a gainer by this accident. + +Sec. 3. _VOYAGE FROM PAYTA TO LIMA, AND ACCOUNT OF THE ENGLISH PRISONERS +AT THAT PLACE._ + +Our voyage to Lima occupied about five weeks; and, immediately on our +arrival, we were committed to the same prison in which the rest of +the ship's company were confined, except Mr Hately, who, for reasons +formerly assigned, was confined by himself, and very roughly treated. +A short time after our arrival, commissioners were appointed to +hear our cause, and to determine whether we were to be treated as +criminals, or as prisoners of war. We were charged with piracy, +not solely for what we had done in the South Seas in plundering +the Spaniards, but for having used the like violence against other +nations, before our arrival in that sea, from which they proposed to +infer that we had evinced a piratical disposition in the whole of +our conduct. Of this they thought they had sufficient proof in the +moidores found upon Hately, as they appeared to have been taken from +the subjects of a prince in amity with our sovereign. Happily for us, +Don Diego Morsilio, the viceroy, who was an archbishop in the decline +of life, was pleased to investigate this matter; and finding only one +of us guilty, would not sign an order for taking away the lives of +the innocent. Some were for sending Hatley to the mines for life, +and others for hanging him: But the several accounts of the vile +proceedings of Captain Shelvocke contributed to his deliverance, of +the truth of which circumstance, there were enough of our people at +Lima to witness; for, besides Lieutenant Sergeantson and his men, +who were brought thither, there came also the men whom Shelvocke sent +along with Hopkins to shift for themselves in an empty bark, who were +forced to surrender themselves to the Indians for want of sustenance; +so that the court were satisfied that Shelvocke was the principal in +that piratical act, rather than Hately. Considering that we had all +been sufficiently punished before our arrival at Lima, they thought +fit to let us all go by degrees. Hately was kept in irons about a +twelvemonth, and was then allowed to return to England. I was more +fortunate, as my imprisonment lasted only a fortnight, owing to the +interposition of one Captain Fitzgerald, a gentleman born in France, +who had great interest with the viceroy, and became security for +me, on which I was allowed my liberty in the city, provided I were +forthcoming when called for. + +Among my first enquiries was into the condition of other English +prisoners at this place. I learnt from Lieutenant Sergeantson and +his men, who were here before us, that most of them had adopted the +religion of the country, had been christened, and were dispersed among +the convents of the city. The first of these I met had his catechism +in one hand, and a large string of beads dangling in the other. I +smiled, and asked him how he liked it? He said, very well; for having +a religion to chuse, he thought theirs better than none, especially +as it brought him good meat and drink, and a quiet life. Many of +Shelvocke's men followed this example, and I may venture to say, that +most of them had the same substantial reason for their conversion. +It is here reckoned very meritorious to make a convert, and many +arguments were used for that purpose, but no rigorous measures +were used to bring any one over to their way of thinking. Those who +consented to be baptized, generally had some of the merchants of Lima +for their patrons and god-fathers, who never failed to give them a +good suit of clothes, and some money to drink their healths. + +About this time four or five of Clipperton's men had leave from the +convents where they resided, to meet together at a public-house kept +by one John Bell, an Englishman, who had a negro wife, who had been +made free for some service or other. The purpose of this meeting was +merely to confirm their new baptism over a bowl of punch; but they all +got drunk and quarrelled, and, forgetting they were true catholics, +they demolished the image of some honest saint that stood in a corner, +mistaking him for one of their companions. Missing them for a few +days, I enquired at Bell what was become of them, when he told me they +were all in the Inquisition; for the thing having taken air, he was +obliged to go himself to complain of their behaviour, but he got them +released a few days after, when they had time to repent and get +sober in the dungeons of the holy office. Bell said, if these men had +remained heretics, their drunken exploit had not come within the verge +of the ecclesiastical power; but as they were novices, they were the +easier pardoned, their outrages on the saint being attributed to the +liquor, and not to any designed affront to the catholic faith, or a +relapse into heresy. + +Some time afterwards, about a dozen of our men from the Success and +Speedwell were sent to Calao, to assist in careening and fitting out +the Flying-fish, designed for Europe. They here entered into a plot +to run away with the Margarita, a good sailing ship which lay in the +harbour, meaning to have gone for themselves, in which of course they +would have acted as pirates. Not knowing what to do for ammunition and +a compass, they applied to Mr Sergeantson, pretending they meant to +steal away to Panama, where there was an English factory, and whence +they had hopes of getting home. They said they had got half a dozen +firelocks, with which they might be able to kill wild hogs or other +game, as they went along, and begged him to help them to some powder +and shot, and a compass to steer their way through the woods. By +begging and making catholic signs to the people in Lima, they had +collected some dollars, which they desired Sergeantson to lay out +for them; and he, not mistrusting their plot, bought them what they +wanted. Thus furnished, one of them came to me at Lima, and told me +their intention, and that Sprake was to have the command, as being the +only one among them who knew any thing of navigation. I answered, that +it was a bold design; but as Captain Fitzgerald had engaged for my +honour, I could not engage in it. Their plot was discovered a few days +after, their lodgings searched, their arms taken away, and they were +committed to prison. The government was much incensed against them, +and had nearly determined upon their execution; but they were soon all +released except Sprake, who was the ringleader, and was kept in irons +for two or three months, and then set at liberty. + +The dominions belonging to the Spaniards in America are so large and +valuable, that, if well governed, they might render that monarchy +exceedingly formidable. In my long stay in Peru, I had the means of +examining at leisure, and with attention, their manner of living, the +form of their government, and many other circumstances little known +in our part of the world, and had many opportunities of enquiring into +things minutely, which did not fall under my immediate observation; +and of which I propose to give as clear and accurate an account as +I can, constantly distinguishing between what fell under my own +immediate knowledge, and what I received from the information of +others. + +Sec. 4. _DESCRIPTION OF LIMA, AND SOME ACCOUNT OF THE GOVERNMENT OF +PERU._ + +The great and rich city of Lima is the metropolis of Peru, and the +seat of an archbishop. It is all regularly built, the streets being +all straight and spacious, dividing the whole into small squares. It +stands in an open vale, through which runs a gentle stream, dividing +the city in two, as the Thames does London from Southwark. Calao is +the port of Lima, from whence it is about seven miles distant. Because +of the frequent earthquakes, the houses are only of one story, and +generally twelve or fourteen feet high. It contains eight parish +churches, three colleges for students, twenty-eight monasteries of +friars, and thirteen nunneries, so that the religions occupy a fourth +part of the city; yet, by the quick and plentiful flow of money, and +the vast sums bequeathed through the effects of celibacy, they are +well endowed. Besides these, there are two hospitals for sick, poor, +and disabled; and in which several of our men were kindly looked +after. The length of the city from north to south is two miles, and +its breadth one and a half; its whole circumference, including the +wall and the river, being six miles. The other, or smaller part of +the city, is to the east of the river, over which there is a handsome +stone bridge of seven arches. Including all sorts and colours, I +computed that the whole population of Lima amounted to between +sixty and seventy thousand persons; and I should not wonder at any +multiplication in this city, as it is the centre of so much affluence +and pleasure. Besides the natural increase of the inhabitants, all +ships that trade this way, whether public or private, generally leave +some deserters, who remain behind in consequence of the encouragement +given to all white faces. + +The people here are perhaps the most expensive in their habits of any +in the world. The men dress nearly as in England, their coats being +either of silk, fine English cloth, or camblets, embroidered or laced +with gold or silver, and their waistcoats usually of the richest +brocades. The women wear no stays or hoops, having only a stitched +holland jacket next their shifts, and they generally wear a square +piece of swansdown flannel thrown over their shoulders, entirely +covered with Flanders lace, and have their petticoats adorned with +gold or silver lace. When they walk out, the Creole women are mostly +veiled, but not the mulattoes; and, till thirty or forty years of +age, they wear no head-clothes, their hair being tied behind with fine +ribbons. The pride of the ladies chiefly appears in fine Mechlin or +Brussels lace, with which they trim their linen in a most extravagant +manner, not omitting even their sheets and pillows. Their linen +jackets are double bordered with it, both at top and bottom, with four +or five ruffles or furbelows hanging down to their knees. They +are very extravagant also in pearls and precious stones, in rings, +bracelets, and necklaces, though the value of these is hardly equal to +the shew. + +The viceroy has a splendid palace in the royal square, or great +quadrangle of the city, which seemed as large as Lincoln's-Inn-Fields. +His salary is ten thousand pounds a-year, but his perquisites amount +to double that sum. And though his government expires at the end of +three, four, or five years, he generally makes a handsome fortune, +as all places are in his gift, both in the government and the army +throughout all Peru, except such as are sent out or nominated by the +king. The great court of justice consists of twelve judges, besides a +number of inferior officers, councillors, and solicitors. Before this +court all causes are decided, but they are too often determined in +favour of the party who gives most money. And, though these vast +dominions abound in riches, there is not much work for the lawyers, +as the laws are few and plain, which certainly is much better than +a multiplicity of laws, explaining one another till they become so +intricate that the issue of a cause depends more on the craft of the +solicitor and advocate, than on its justice. Every magistrate in this +country knows that his reign is short, and that he will be laughed at +if he does not make a fortune, so that they wink at each other; and, +so great is the distance between Spain and Peru, that the royal orders +are seldom, regarded, being two years in going backward and forward: +Hence arise many clandestine doings. According to law, the king ought +to have a twentieth part of all the gold, and a fifth of all the +silver procured from the mines; but vast quantities are carried away +privately, without paying any duty, both north by Panama, and south +through the Straits of Magellan. There are also vast sums allowed for +the militia, the garrisons, and the repairs of fortifications, one +half of which are never applied to these objects. Hence it may easily +be imagined what immense riches would flow into the treasury of +Madrid, if his catholic majesty were faithfully served. + +The country of Peru is naturally subject to earthquakes. About fifty +years before I was there, or about the year 1670, there were two great +ones at Lima, which overturned many houses, churches, and convents. +And in the reign of Charles II. the late king of Spain, there was an +earthquake near the equator, which lifted up whole fields, carrying +them to the distance of several miles. Small shocks are often felt +which do no harm, and I have been often called out of bed on such +occasions, and heard nothing more about the matter; but on these +occasions the bells always toll to prayers. Yet, although this country +has suffered much from earthquakes, especially near the coast, their +churches are lofty and neatly built. Such parts of their buildings as +require strength are made of burnt bricks; but their dwelling-houses +are all constructed of bamboos, canes, and bricks only dried in +the sun, which are sufficiently durable, as it never rains in Peru. +Instead of roofs, they are merely covered over with mats, on which +ashes are strewed, to keep out the dews. The small river of Lima, +or _Runac_, consists mostly of snow-water from the neighbouring +mountains, which are covered all the year with snow, that partly +dissolves in the summer-season, from September to March. + +One would expect the weather to be much hotter here; but there is +no proportion between the heat of this part of America and the +same latitudes in Africa. This is owing to two causes; that the +neighbourhood of the snowy mountains diffuses a cool temperature +of the air all around; and the constant humid vapours, which are so +frequent that I often expected it to rain when I first went to Lima. +These vapours are not so dense, low, and gloomy, like our fogs, nor +yet are they separated above like our summer clouds; but an exhalation +between both, spread all around, as when we say the day is overcast, +so that sometimes a fine dew is felt on the upper garments, and may +even be discerned on the knap of the cloth. This is a prodigious +convenience to the inhabitants of Lima, who are thus screened half the +day from the sun; and though it often shines out in the afternoon, yet +is the heat very tolerable, being tempered by the sea-breezes, and +not near so hot as at Lisbon and some parts of Spain, more than thirty +degrees farther from the equator. + +The entire want of rain in this country induced the Indians, even +before the conquest, to construct canals and drains for leading water +from among the distant mountains, which they have done with great +skill and labour, so as to irrigate and refresh the vallies, by which +they produce grass and corn, and a variety of fruits, to which also +the dews contribute. A Spanish writer observes that this perpetual +want of rain is occasioned by the south-west wind blowing on the coast +of Peru the whole year round, which always bears away the vapours from +the plains before they are of sufficient body to descend in showers: +But, when carried higher and farther inland, they become more compact, +and at length fall down in rain on the interior hills. The inhabitants +of Peru have plenty of cattle, fowls, fish, and all kinds of +provisions common among us, except butter, instead of which they +always use lard. They have oil, wine, and brandy in abundance, but not +so good as in Europe. Instead of tea from China, which is prohibited, +they make great use of _camini_, called herb of Paraguay, or Jesuits +tea, which, is brought from Paraguay by land. They make a decoction +of this, which they usually suck through a pipe, calling it _Mattea_, +being the name of the bowl out of which it is drank. Chocolate is +their usual breakfast, and their grace cup after dinner; and sometimes +they take a glass of brandy, to promote digestion, but scarcely drink +any wine. In Chili, they make some butter, such as it is, the cream +being put into a skin bag kept for that purpose, which is laid on a +table between two women, who shake it till the butter comes. + +The Spaniards are no friends to the bottle, yet gallantry and intrigue +are here brought to perfection, insomuch that it is quite unmannerly +here not to have a mistress, and scandalous not to keep her well. The +women have many accomplishments, both natural and acquired, having +graceful motions, winning looks, and engaging, free, and sprightly +conversation. They are all delicately shaped, not injured by +stiff-bodied stays, but left entirely to the beauty of nature, and +hardly is there a crooked body to be seen, among them. Their eyes and +teeth are singularly beautiful, and their hair is universally of a +dark polished hue, nicely combed and plaited, and tied behind with +ribbons, but never disguised by powder; and the brightness of their +skins round the temples, clearly appears through their dark hair. +Though amours are universal at Lima, the men are very careful to bide +them, and no indecent word or action is ever permitted in public. +They usually meet for these purposes, either in the afternoon at +the _Siesta_, or in the evening in calashes on the other side of the +river, or in the great square of the city, where calashes meet in +great numbers in the dusk. These are slung like our coaches, but +smaller, many of them being made only to hold two persons sitting +opposite. They are all drawn by one mule, with the negro driver +sitting on his back; and it is quite usual to see some of these +calashes, with the blinds close, standing still for half an hour at +a time. In these amusements they have several customs peculiar to +themselves. After evening prayers, the gentleman changes his dress +from a cloak to a _montero_, or jockey-coat, with a laced linen cap on +his head, and a handkerchief round his neck, instead of a wig; or if +he wear his own hair, it must be tucked under a cap and concealed, as +it is the universal fashion to be thus disguised. Even those who +have no mistress, are ashamed to appear virtuous, and must be somehow +masked or disguised, in order to countenance the way of the world. +As, all this is night-work, they have an established rule to avoid +quarrels, by never speaking to or noticing each other, when going in +quest of or to visit their ladies. + +In short, the fore-part of every night in the year is a kind of +masquerade. Among people of any rank who do not keep calashes, one +couple never walks close behind another, but each at the distance +of at least twelve paces, to prevent the overhearing of any secret +whispers. Should a lady drop a fan or any thing else by accident, a +gentleman may take it up, but he must not give it to the lady, but to +the gentleman who accompanies her, lest she may happen to be the wife +or sister of him who takes it up; and as all the ladies are veiled, +these wise rules are devised to prevent any impertinent discoveries. +Any freedom in contravention of these laws of gallantry would be +looked upon as the highest affront, and would be thought to merit a +drawn sword through the midriff. Should any one see his most intimate +friend any where with a woman, he must never take notice of it, or +mention it afterwards. Every thing of this nature is conducted with +all imaginary gravity and decorum, by which the practice of gallantry +becomes decent and easy; yet there are some jealousies in this regular +commerce of love, which sometimes end fatally. A story of this kind +happened shortly before I went to Lima. A young lady, who thought +herself sole sovereign in the heart of her lover, saw him by chance +in the company of another, and, waiting no farther proof of his +infidelity, she instantly plunged a dagger in his bosom. She was soon +after brought to trial, and every one expected that she should pay +the forfeit with her life; but the judges, considering her rashness +as proceeding from excess of love, not malice, acquitted her. However +agreeable these gallantries may be to the _Creole_ Spaniards, they +have an inconvenient effect on society; as the men are so engrossed +by these matters, as to spoil all public conversation. Their time is +entirely taken up in attendance on their mistresses, so that there are +no coffee-houses or taverns, and they can only be met with at their +offices, or in church. + +Perhaps it may be chiefly owing to this effeminate propensity, that +all manly exercises, all useful knowledge, and that noble emulation +which inspires virtue, and keeps alive respect for the public good, +are here unknown. Those amusements which serve in other countries to +relax the labours of the industrious, and to keep alive the vigour of +the body and mind, are unknown in Peru; and whoever should attempt to +introduce any such, would be considered as an innovator, which, among +them, is a hateful character: For they will never be convinced, that +martial exercises or literary conferences are preferable to intrigues. +They have, however, a sort of a play-house, where the young gentlemen +and students divert themselves after their fashion; but their dramatic +performances are so mean as hardly to be worth mentioning, being +scripture stories, interwoven with romance, a mixture still worse than +gallantry. At this theatre, two Englishmen belonging to the squadron +of Mons. Martinat, fought a prize-battle a short time before I came +to Lima. Having first obtained leave of the viceroy to display their +skill at the usual weapons, and the day being fixed, they went through +many previous ceremonies, to draw, as the phrase is, a good house. +Preceded by beat of drum, and dressed in holland shirts and ribbons, +they went about the streets saluting the spectators at the windows +with flourishes of their swords, so that the whole city came to see +the trial of skill, some giving gold for admittance, and hardly any +one less than a dollar. The company, male and female, being assembled, +the masters mounted the stage, and, after the usual manner of the +English, having shaken hands, they took their distance, and stood +on their guard in good order. Several bouts were played without much +wrath or damage, the design being more to get money than cuts or +credit, till at length one of the masters received a small hurt on +the breast, which blooded his shirt, and began to make the combat look +terrible. Upon this, fearing from this dreadful beginning that the +zeal of the combatants might grow too warm, the company cried out, +_Basta! basta!_ or enough! enough! And the viceroy would never permit +another exhibition of the same kind, lest one of the combatants might +receive a mortal wound, and so die without absolution. + +So deficient are the Spaniards in energy of spirit, that many +extensive countries and islands remain unexplored, in the immediate +neighbourhood of their vast American dominions, though some of these +are reported to be richer and more valuable than those which are +already conquered and settled. The first Spanish governors of Mexico +and Peru were not of this indolent disposition, but bestowed great +pains in endeavouring to acquire the most perfect knowledge bordering +upon their respective governments: But now that general thirst of fame +is entirely extinguished, and they content themselves with plundering +their fellow-subjects in the countries already known. The regions to +the north of Mexico are known to abound in silver, precious stones, +and other rich commodities, yet the Spaniards decline all conquest on +that side, and discourage as much as possible the reports which have +spread of the riches of these countries. On the same principles, they +give no encouragement to attempt penetrating into the heart of South +America, whence most of the riches of Peru are known to come, the +mountains at the back of the country being extremely rich in gold; and +the regions, on the other side, towards the Atlantic, being inhabited +by nations that have abundance of that metal, though, for fear of +being oppressed by the Europeans, they conceal it as much as possible. + +Of all the discoveries that have been talked of among the Spaniards, +that which has made the most noise is the island or islands of +Solomon, supposed to be the same with those discovered by the famous +Ferdinand Quiros. He reported them to be extremely rich and very +populous, and repeatedly memorialed the court of Spain to be +authorised to complete his discovery. All his solicitations, however, +were neglected, and it became a question in a few years whether any +such islands had ever existed. At length, towards the close of the +seventeenth century, such discoveries were made as to the reality of +these islands, that Don Alvaro de Miranda was sent out to discover +them in 1695. He failed in the attempt, but in the search met with +four islands, between the latitude of 7 deg. and 10 deg. S. which were +wonderfully rich and pleasant, the inhabitants being a better looking +race, and far more civilized than any of the Indians on the continent +of America. This discovery occasioned a good deal of discourse at the +time; but the subsequent disturbances relative to the succession to +the crown of Spain, so occupied the attention of every person, that +all views of endeavouring to find the islands of Solomon were laid +aside.[2] + +[Footnote 2: These islands of Miranda appear to have been the +Marquebes, between the latitudes of 8 deg. 45' and 10 deg. 25' N. and long. +139 deg. W. The Solomon islands, or New Georgia, are between 5 deg. and 10 deg. N. +and long. 200 deg. to 205 deg. W. 63-1/2 degrees of longitude farther to the +westwards.--E.] + +Sec. 5. _SOME ACCOUNT OF THE MINES OF PERU AND CHILI_. + +As the riches of Peru consist chiefly in mines of silver, I shall +endeavour to give some account of them, from the best information I +could procure. There are two sorts of silver-mines, in one of which +the silver is found scattered about in small quantities, or detached +masses, while, in the other kind of mine, it runs in a vein between +two rocks, one of which is excessively hard, and the other much +softer. These certainly best deserve the name of silver-mines, and +are accordingly so denominated. This precious metal, which in other +countries is the standard or measure of riches, is the actual riches +of Peru, or its chief natural commodity; as, throughout the whole of +that vast country, silver-mines are almost every where to be met with, +of more or less value, according as the ore produces more or less +silver, or can be wrought at a greater or less expence. Some of these +mines are to the north of Lima, but not a great many, but to the south +they are very numerous. On the back, or eastern side of the Andes, +there is a nation of Indians called _Los Platerors_, or the _Plate_, +or _Silver_ men, from their possessing vast quantities of silver,[1] +but with them the Spaniards have very little communication. The best +of the mine countries are to the south of Cusco, from thence to Potosi +and the frontiers of Chili, where, for the space of 800 miles, there +is a continued succession of mines, some being discovered and others +abandoned almost every day. + +[Footnote 1: This tribe still holds its place in modern geography, +in the vast plain to the E. of the Maranors or Amazons, where there +cannot be any silver-mines, at least that they can explore. They are +so named because of wearing silver ear-rings, which they must, almost +certainly, procure in barter from the tribes in the mountains, far to +the west.--E.] + +It is common, both here and elsewhere, for people to complain of the +times, commending the past, as if there had been infinitely greater +quantities of silver dug from the mines formerly than at present. This +certainly may be the case with particular mines; but, on the whole, +the quantities of silver now annually obtained from the mines in +Spanish America, abundantly exceeds what used formerly to be procured. +Those mines which are at present [1720] most remarkable in Peru are, +Loxa, Camora, Cuenca, Puerto-veio, and St Juan del Oro. Those of Oruro +and Titiri are neglected; and those of Porco and Plata are filled +up. At Potosi there are a vast number of mines; and those of Tomina, +Chocaia, Atacuna, Xuxui, Calchaques, Guasco, Iquique, &c. are all +wrought with more or less profit, according to the skill of the +proprietors or managers. It is generally believed that the Creoles +have a very perfect acquaintance with the minerals, from experience, +and with the art of treating them, so as to obtain the largest profit; +but, when their utter ignorance in all other arts is considered, their +constant going on in the old beaten track, and their enormous waste of +quicksilver, one is tempted to believe that our European miners might +conduct their works to still greater advantage. + +The most perfect silver that is brought from Peru is in the forms +called _pinnas_ by the Spaniards, being extremely porous lumps of +silver, as they are the remainder of a paste composed of silver dust +and mercury, whence the latter being exhaled or evaporated, leaves the +silver in a spongy mass, full of holes, and very light. This is the +kind of silver which is put into various forms by the merchants, in +order to cheat the king of his duty; wherefore all silver in this +state, found any where on the road, or on board any ship, is looked +upon as contraband, and liable to seizure. + +In regard to the art of refining, I propose to shew the progress of +the ore, from the mine till it comes to this spongy mass or cake. +After breaking the stone or ore taken out of the veins, it is grinded +in mills between grindstones, or pounded in the _ingenious reales_, +or royal engines, by means of hammers or beetles, like the mills for +Paris plaster. These generally have a wheel of twenty-five or thirty +feet diameter, with a long axle or lying shaft, set round with smooth +triangular projections, which, as the axle turns, lay hold of the iron +hammers, of about two hundred-weight each, lifting them to a certain +height, whence they drop down with such violence that they crush and +reduce the hardest stones to powder. The pounded ore is afterwards +sifted through iron or copper sieves, which allow the finest powder +to go through, the coarse being returned to the mill. When the one +happens to be mixed with copper or other metals which prevent +its reduction to powder, it is roasted or calcined in an oven or +reverberatory furnace, and pounded over again. + +At the smaller mines, where they only use grindstones, they, for the +most part, grind the ore along with water, forming it into a liquid +paste, which runs out into receivers. When grinded dry, it has to be +afterwards mixed with water, and well moulded up with the feet for a +long time. For this purpose, they make a court or floor, on which that +mud, or paste of pounded ore and water, is disposed in square parcels +of about a foot thick, each parcel containing half a _caxon_, or +chest, which is twenty-five quintals or hundred-weights of ore, and +these parcels are called _cuerpos_, or bodies. On each of these they +throw about two hundred-weights of sea-salt, more or less, according +to the nature of the ore, which they mould or incorporate with the +moistened ore for two or three days. They then add a certain quantity +of quicksilver, squeezing it from a skin bag, to make it fall in drops +equally on the mass or _cuerpo_, allowing to each mass ten, fifteen, +or twenty pounds of quicksilver, according to the nature or quality of +the ore, as the richer it is, it requires the more mercury to draw it +to the silver contained in the mass, so that they know the quantity +by long experience. An Indian is employed to mould or trample one +of these square cuerpos eight times a-day, that the mercury +may thoroughly incorporate with the silver. To expedite this +incorporation, they often mix lime with the mass, when the ore happens +to be what they call greasy, and in this great caution is required, +as they say the mass sometimes grows so hot that they neither find +mercury nor silver in it, which seems quite incredible. Sometimes also +they strew in some lead or tin ore, to facilitate the operation of the +mercury, which is slower in very cold weather; wherefore, at Potosi +and Lipes, they are often obliged to mould or work up their cuerpos +during a month or six weeks; but, in more temperate climates, the +amalgama is completed in eight or ten days. To facilitate the action +of the mercury, they, in some places, as at Puno and elsewhere, +construct their _buiterons_ or floors on arches, under which they keep +fires for twenty-four hours, to heat the masses or _cuerpos_, which +are in that case placed as a pavement of bricks. + +When it is thought that the mercury has attracted all the silver, +the assayer takes a small quantity of ore from each cuerpo, which he +washes separately in a small earthen plate or wooden bowl; and, by the +colour and appearance of the amalgama found at the bottom, when the +earthy matters are washed away, he knows whether the mercury has +produced its proper effect. When blackish, the ore is said to have +been too much heated, and they add more salt, or some other temper. In +this case they say that mercury is _dispara_, that is, shoots or flees +away. If the mercury remains white, they put a drop under the thumb, +and pressing it hastily, the silver in the amalgam sticks to the +thumb, and the mercury slips away in little drops. When they conceive +that all the silver has incorporated with the mercury, the mixed mass, +or cuerpo, is carried to a basin or pond, into which a small stream +of water is introduced to wash it, much in the same way as I shall +afterwards describe the manner in which they wash gold, only that as +the silver-ore is reduced to a fine mud without stones, it is stirred +by an Indian with his feet, to dissolve it thoroughly, and loosen the +silver. From the first basin it falls into a second, and thence into +a third, where the stirring and washing is repeated, that any amalgam +which has not subsided in the first and second may not escape the +third. + +The whole being thoroughly washed in these basins, which are lined +with leather, till the water runs clear off, the amalgam of mercury +and silver is found at the bottom, and is termed _la pella_. This is +put into a woollen bag and hung up, from whence some of the mercury +runs out. The bag is then beaten and pressed as much as they can, +laying upon it a flat piece of wood loaded with a heavy weight, to get +out as much of the mercury as they can. The paste is then put into +a mould of wooden planks bound together, generally in the form of an +octagon pyramid cut short, its bottoms being a plate of copper, full +of small holes, into which the paste is stirred and pressed down, in +order to fasten it. When they design to make many _pinnas_, or spongy +lumps of various weights, these are divided from each other by thin +beds or layers of earth, which hinder them from uniting. For this +purpose, the _pella_, or mass of amalgam, must be weighed out in +separate portions, deducting two-thirds for the contained mercury, by +which they know to a small matter the quantity of silver contained in +each. They then take off the mould, and place the pella or mass with +its copper base on a trivet, or such like instrument, standing over a +great earthen vessel full of water, and cover it with an earthen cap, +which again is covered by lighted coals. This fire is fed and kept +up for some hours, by which the mass of pella below becomes violently +heated, the contained mercury being thereby raised into vapour: But, +having no means of escape through the cap or cover, it is forced down +to the water underneath, where it condenses into quicksilver and sinks +to the bottom. By this contrivance, little of the mercury is lost, +and the same serves over again. But the quantity must be increased, +_because it grows weak_.[2] At Potosi, as Acosta relates, they +formerly consumed six or seven thousand quintals of mercury every +year, by which Some idea may be formed of the silver there procured. + +[Footnote 2: This is utterly absurd, as the mercury must be the same +in _quality_ as before, the _quantity_ only being _weakened_.] + +On the evaporation of the mercury, nothing remains but a spongy lump +of contiguous grains of silver, very light and almost mouldering, +called _la pinna_ by the Spaniards. These masses must be carried to +the king's receipt or mint, to pay the royal fifth; and are there cast +into ingots, on which are stamped the arms of the crown, the place +where cast, and their weight and fineness. All these ingots, having +paid the fifth, are sure to be without fraud or deceit; but it is not +so with the _pinnas_, as these have often iron, sand, or some other +matter contained within them, to increase their weight; Hence, +prudence requires that these should be opened, and made red hot in a +fire; for, if falsified, the fire will turn them black or yellow, or +melt them more easily. This trial by fire is also necessary to extract +moisture, which they contract in places where they are purposely laid +to render them heavier, as also for separating the mercury with which +the bottom of the mass is always more or less impregnated. The weight +of these _pinnas_ may be increased nearly a third, by dipping them +while red hot into water. It also sometimes happens that the same mass +of pinna may be of different fineness in different parts. + +The ore, or stones taken from the mines, or the _mineray_, as it is +called in Peru, from which the silver is extracted, is not always of +the same nature, consistence, and colour. Some are white and grey, +mixed with red or bluish spots, called _plata blanca_ or white silver; +of which sort the one in the Lipes mines mostly consists. For the most +part, some little grains of silver are to be discerned, and very often +small branches are seen, ramifying along the layers of the stone. Some +ores are as black as the dross of iron, and in which no silver is to +be seen, which is called _negrillo_ or blackish ore. Sometimes the ore +is rendered black by admixture of lead, and is called _plombo ronco_, +or coarse lead, in which the silver appears as if scratched by +something harsh. This ore is generally the richest in silver, and from +it also the silver is got at the smallest charge; as instead of having +to be moulded or kneaded with quicksilver, it has only to be melted +in furnaces, where the lead evaporates by the force of fire, and the +silver remains pure behind. From this sort. of mines, the Indians drew +their silver before the coming of the Spaniards, having no knowledge +of the use of mercury, and they accordingly only wrought those mines +of which the ore would melt; and, having but little wood, they heated +their furnaces with _ylo_, the dung of the _Llamas_ or Peruvian sheep, +placing their furnaces on the sides of mountains, that the wind might +render their fires fierce. + +There is another sort of black ore, in which the silver does not at +all appear; and which, when wetted and rubbed against iron, becomes +red. This ore is called _rosicler_, signifying that ruddiness which +appears at the dawn of day. This is very rich, and affords the finest +silver. Another kind, called _zoroche_, glitters like talc, and is +generally very poor, yielding little silver: Its outer coat is very +soft and of a yellowish red, but seldom rich; and the mines of this +sort are wrought on account of the easiness of extracting the ore, +being very easily dug. Another kind, not much harder than the last, is +of a green colour, called _cobrissa_ or copperish, and is very rare. +Although the silver usually appears in this kind, and it is almost +mouldering, it is the most difficult of all to manage, as it parts +very difficultly with the silver. Sometimes, after being stamped or +reduced to powder, it has to be burnt in the fire, and several other +expedients must be used to separate the silver, doubtless because +mixed with copper. There is another very rare sort of ore, which has +only been found in the mine of _Cotamiso_ at Potosi, being threads of +pure silver entangled, or wound up together, like burnt lace, and so +fine that it is called _arana_, or spider ore, from its resemblance to +a cobweb. + +The veins of _mineray_, of whatever sort they may be, are generally +richer in the middle than towards the edges; and where two veins +happen to cross each other, the place where they meet is always very +rich. It is also observed that those which lie north and south are +richer than those which lie in any other direction. Those also which +are near to places where mills can be erected, and can consequently +be more commodiously wrought, are often preferable to others that are +richer, but require more expense in working. For this reason, at Lipes +and Potosi, a chest of ore must yield ten marks or eighty ounces of +silver, to pay the charges of working; while those in the province of +Tarama only require five merks or forty ounces to defray the expences. +When even very rich, and they happen to sink down so as to be liable +to be flooded, the adventurers must have recourse to pumps and +machines in order to drain them; or to _cocabones_ or levels dug +through the sides of the mountain, which often ruin the owners by the +enormous expence they are insensibly drawn into. At some of the mines, +where the methods of separation already described fail, they use other +means of extracting the silver from the ore, and from other metals +which may be combined with it; as by fire, or strong separating +waters; and there the silver is cast into a sort of ingots, called +_bollos_. But the most general and useful method is that already +described. + +It may naturally be supposed that mines, as well as other things, are +subject to variation in their productiveness. The mines which, till +very lately, yielded most silver, were those of _Oroura_, a small town +about eight leagues from Arica. In the year 1712, one was discovered +at _Ollachea_ near Cusco, so rich that it yielded 2500 marks of silver +of eight ounces each, or 20,000 ounces, out of each _caxon_ or chest, +being almost a fifth part of the ore; but it has since declined much, +and is now [1720] only reckoned among the ordinary sort. Those of +Lipes have had a similar fate. Those at Potosi now yield but little, +and are worked at a very heavy expence, owing to their excessive +depth. Although the mines here are far diminished in their +productiveness, yet the quantity of ore which has been formerly +wrought, and has lain many years on the surface, is now thought +capable of yielding a second crop; and when I was at Lima, they were +actually turning it up, and milling it over again with great success. +This is a proof that these minerals generate in the earth like all +other inanimate things;[3] and it likewise appears, from all the +accounts of the Spaniards, that gold, silver, and other metals are +continually growing and forming in the earth. This opinion is verified +by experience in the mountain of Potosi, where several mines had +fallen in, burying the workmen and their tools; and these being +again opened up after some years, many boxes and pieces of wood were +discovered, having veins of silver actually running through them.[4] + +[Footnote 3: It is merely a proof that the ore had been formerly very +imperfectly managed, and still contained enough of silver to pay for +extraction with profit, by more expert methods.--E.] + +[Footnote 4: This proves only change of place, by solution, +infiltration, and deposition not growth, increase, or new +production.--E.] + +All these mines become the property of their first discoverer, who +immediately presents a petition to the magistrates, desiring to have +such a piece of ground for his own. This is accordingly granted, and +a spot of ground eighty Spanish yards in length by forty in breadth[5] +is measured out and appropriated to the discoverer, who chuses what +spot he pleases within these bounds, and does with it as he thinks +fit. The exact same quantity is then measured off as belonging to the +king, and is sold to the best bidder, there being always many who are +willing to purchase, what may turn out an inestimable treasure. After +this, if any person may incline to work a part of this mine on his own +account, he bargains with the proprietor for a particular vein. All +that is dug out by any one is his own, subject however to payment of +the royal duties; being one-twentieth part for gold, and a fifth for +silver; and some proprietors find a good account in letting out their +grounds and mills to others. + +[Footnote 5: In Harris this is said to be _about 1200 feet in length, +and 100 in breadth_, which is obviously absurd; as the one measure +gives the Spanish yard at 15 English feet, and the latter at 2-1/2 +feet. Both measures are probably erroneous; but there are no data for +their correction.--E.] + +There are gold-mines just beyond the town of Copaipo, and in all the +country around, which have attracted many purchasers and workmen to +that district, to the great injury and oppression of the Indians; +as the Spanish magistrates not only take away their lands for the +purposes of mining, but their horses also, which they sell to the +new adventurers, under pretence of serving the king and improving the +settlements. There is also abundance of magnet and _lapiz lazuli_, +of which the Indians know not the value; and some leagues within the +country, there is plenty of salt and salt-petre, which often lies an +inch thick on the ground. On the _Cordelieras_, about an hundred miles +to the east, there is a vein of sulphur about two feet wide, so fine +and pure that it needs no cleaning. This part of the country is full +of all sorts of mines, but so excessively barren, that the inhabitants +have to fetch all their subsistence from the country about Coquimbo, +over a desert of more than 300 miles extent, in which the earth +abounds so much in salt and sulphur that the mules often perish by +the way, for want of grass and fresh water. In that long road there +is only one river in the course of two hundred miles, which is named +_Ancalulae_ or the Hyporite, because it runs only from sun-rise to +sun-set. This is occasioned by the great quantities of snow melted on +the Cordelieras in the day, which freezes again by the excessive cold +of the night. Hence _Chili_ is said to derive its name, as _chile_ +signifies cold in the Indian language; and we are told by the Spanish +historians, that some of their countrymen and others, who first traded +to this country, were frozen to death on their mules; for which reason +they now always travel by a lower road, towards the coast. + +The mine countries are all so cold and barren, that the inhabitants +have to procure most of their provisions from the coast; this is +caused by the exhalations of salts and sulphur from the earth, which +destroy the growth of all vegetables. These are so stifling to the +Spaniards who dwell about the mines, that they are obliged often to +drink the _mattea_, or tea made of the herb _camini_, to moisten their +mouths. The mules also, that trip it nimbly over the mountains, are +forced to walk slowly in the country about the mines, and have often +to stop to take breath. If these vapours are so strong without and in +the open air, what must they be within the bowels of the earth in the +mines, into which, if a fresh man go, he is suddenly benumbed with +pain. This is the case with many, but seldom lasts above a day, and +they are not liable to be affected a second time: Yet vapours often +burst forth suddenly, by which the workmen are killed on the spot; +and one way or another, great multitudes of Indians die in working the +mines. One is apt to wonder that, through all this part of the world, +those districts which are most barren and unwholesome are the best +inhabited; while other places, that seem to vie with our nations of +the terrestrial paradise, in beauty and fertility, are but thinly +peopled. Yet, when one considers, that it is the thirst of wealth, not +the love of ease, which attracts people thither, the wonder ceases, +and we see how much the hope of living rich gets the better even of +the hope of living; as if the sole end for which man was created was +to acquire wealth, at the expence of health and happiness. + +In reference to these deserts, the following observation occurs to my +memory, as having happened when we were on the road to Piura. When +we lay down to sleep at night, our mules went eagerly in search of a +certain root, not unlike a parsnip, but much bigger, which contains a +great deal of juice, and, besides serving as food, often answers as +a substitute for water in the deserts. When the mules find these, and +are unable to rake them out of the ground with their feet, they stand +over them and bray with all their might, till the Indians come to +their assistance. + +It is generally understood that silver is the peculiar wealth of Peru, +and the Spaniards usually talk of gold-mines as confined to Chili: Yet +there are one or two _lavaderas_, or washing-places for gold in the +south of Peru, near the frontiers of Chili. In 1709, two surprizingly +large _pepitos_, or lumps of virgin gold, were found in one of these +places, one of which weighed complete thirty-two pounds, and was +purchased by the _Conde de Monclod_, then viceroy of Peru, and +presented by him to the king of Spain. The other, shaped somewhat like +an ox's heart, weighed twenty-two pounds and a half; and was purchased +by the corregidor of Arica. In searching for these _lavadores_ or +washing places, they dig in the corners of some little brook, where +they judge, from certain tokens, that the grains of gold are lodged. +To assist in carrying away the earth or mud, they let in a stream or +current of water into the excavation, and keep stirring up the soil, +that the water may carry it away. On reaching the golden sand, they +turn the stream another way, and dig out this sand, which is carried +on mules to certain ponds or basons, which are joined by small canals. +Into these they introduce a smart stream of water, to loosen the earth +and carry away the grosser part. The Indians stand in the basons or +ponds, stirring up the earth to assist the operation of the water, and +throwing out the stones. The gold remains at the bottom, still mixed +with a black sand, and is hardly to be seen till farther cleaned and +separated, which is easily done. These washing places differ much from +each other. In some the grains of gold are as big as small shot; and +in one belonging to the priests, near Valparaiso, some are found from +the weight of two or three ounces to a pound and a half. This way +of getting gold is much better than from the mines, as it does not +require expensive digging, neither are mills necessary for grinding +the ore, nor quicksilver for extracting the metal; so that both the +trouble and expence are much less. The Creoles are by no means so nice +in washing their gold as are the people in Europe; but great plenty +makes them careless, both in this and other matters. + +Sec. 6. _OBSERVATIONS ON THE TRADE OF CHILI._ + +It is not intended in this place to give a description of the large +kingdom of Chili, but only some account of the nature of its trade, +and the manner in which that is connected with the general commerce +of Peru, by which the wealth of Chili is transmitted to Europe. +Chili extends in length about 1200 miles from north to south, but its +breadth is uncertain. The air is very temperate and wholesome, unless +when rendered otherwise by pestilential exhalations, that are most +common after earthquakes, to which this country is peculiarly liable. +The winter rains are very heavy, during the months of May, June, July, +and August; after which, for eight months together, they have fine +weather, generally speaking. The soil, where it admits of cultivation, +is prodigiously fertile, and fruit-trees carried thither from Europe +come to the greatest perfection, so that fruit is coming forward in +its different stages at all times of the year; insomuch that it is +common to see apple-trees, in the situation so much admired in orange +trees, having blossoms, fruit just set, green fruit, and ripe apples, +all on one tree at the same time. The valleys, wherever they have any +moisture, wear a perpetual verdure; and the hills are covered with +odoriferous herbs, many of which are very useful in medicine. The +country also produces trees of all sorts. Thus Chili, independent of +its gold-mines, may well be accounted one of the richest and finest +countries in the world. For instance, the town of Coquimbo, in lat. +30 deg. S. [30 deg. 20'] a short mile from the sea, in a most delightful +place. It is situated on a green rising ground, about ten yards high, +formed by nature like a regular terrace, stretching north and south in +a direct line of more than half a mile, turning a little at each end +to the eastwards; and its principal street forms a delightful walk, +having a fine prospect of the country and the bay. All this is placed +in an evergreen valley, and watered by a beautiful river, which rises +in the mountains, and flows in a winding stream to the sea, through +beautiful meadows and fertile vales. + +Notwithstanding its many advantages, this vast country is very thinly +inhabited; so that through its whole extent there are scarcely five +towns deserving that appellation, and only one city, named St Jago. +Through all the rest of the country there are only farms, called +_estancias_, which are so remote from each other, that the whole +country cannot muster 20,000 whites capable of bearing arms, of which +St Jago contains 2000. All the rest of the population consists of +mesticoes, mulattoes, and Indians, the number of whom may amount to +three times as many.[1] This is exclusive of the _friendly_ Indians to +the south of the river _Biobio_, who are reckoned to amount to 15,000 +fighting men, but whose fidelity is not much to be depended upon. + +[Footnote 1: Allowing _eight_ persons of all ages and both sexes +to _one_ fit to bear arms, this would give to Chili, in 1720, a +population of 160,000 whites, and 480,000 of colour, or 640,000 in +all.--E.] + +The trade of this country is chiefly carried on by sea, and at +present, 1720, is rather in a declining situation. The port of +Baldivia was formerly very famous, on account of the very rich +gold-mines which were wrought in its neighbourhood, which are now in +a great measure disused. Hence it is now only kept as a garrison, +serving to Peru as the fortresses on the coast of Barbary do to +Spain, as a place to which malefactors are sent, to serve against the +Indians. The trade of this place consists in sending ten or twelve +ships every year to Peru, laden with hides, tanned leather, salt meat, +corn, and other provisions, which are to be had here in great plenty. + +The port of Conception is more considerable, by reason of its trade +with the Indians who are not under subjection to the crown of Spain. +These Indians are copper-coloured, having large limbs, broad faces, +and coarse lank hair. The nation of the _Puelches_ differs somewhat +from the rest, as among them there are some who are tolerably white, +and have some little colour in their cheeks; which is supposed to be +owing to their having some Europeans blood in their veins, ever since +the natives of this country revolted from the Spaniards, and cut off +most of their garrisons; on which occasion they preserved the women, +and especially the nuns, by whom they had many children; who still +retain a sort of affection for the country of their mothers, and, +though too proud to submit to the Spaniards, yet are unwilling to hurt +them. + +These _Puelches_ inhabit the ridge of mountains called _La Cordeliera_ +by the Spaniards, and as the manner of trading with them is very +singular, it may be proper to give some account of it. When the +Spanish pedlar or travelling merchant goes into this country, he +goes directly to a cacique or chief, and presents himself before him +without speaking a word. The cacique breaks silence first, saying +to the merchant, _Are you come?_ To which the merchant answers _I am +come._ _What have you brought me?_ replies the cacique. To which the +merchant rejoins, _Wine_, and such other things as he may have to +dispose of, wine being a necessary article. Upon which the cacique +never fails to say, _You are welcome_. The cacique then appoints +a lodging for the merchant near his own hut, where his wives and +children, bidding him welcome, each demand a present, however small, +which he accordingly gives. The cacique then gives notice to his +scattered subjects, by means of his horn or trumpet, that a merchant +is arrived with whom they may trade. They come accordingly and see +the commodities, which are knives, axes, combs, needles, thread, small +mirrors, ribbons, and the like. The best of all would be wine, were it +not dangerous to supply them with that article; as, when drunk, they +are very quarrelsome and apt to kill one another, and it would not +then be safe to be among them. When they have agreed on the price, or +barter rather, they carry away all the articles without then making +payment; so that the merchant delivers all his commodities without +knowing to whom, or even seeing any of his debtors. When his business +is concluded, and he proposes to go away, the cacique commands payment +by again sounding his horn, and then every man honestly brings to +the merchant the cattle he owes for the goods received; and, as +these consist of mules, goats, oxen, and cows, the cacique commands a +sufficient number of men to conduct them to the Spanish frontiers. + +The far greater number of bullocks and cows that are slaughtered and +consumed every year in Chili, comes from the plains of Paraguay,[2] +which are in a manner covered by them. The Puelches bring them through +the plain of _Tapa-papa_, inhabited by the _Pteheingues_,[3] or +unconquered Indians, this being the best pass for crossing the +mountains, as being divided into two hills of less difficult access +than the others, which are almost impassable for mules. There is +another pass, about eighty leagues from Conception, at the volcano of +_Silla Velluda_, which now and then casts out fire, and sometimes with +so great a noise as to be heard even at that city. In that way the +journey is much shortened, and they can go to Buenos Ayres in six +weeks. By these communications they generally bring all the beeves and +goats,[4] which are slaughtered in Chili by thousands for their tallow +and lard. This last consists of the marrow of the bones, which serves +throughout all South America instead of butter and oil, for making +sauces. The flesh is either dried in the sun, or by means of smoke, +to preserve it for use, instead of salt as used in Europe. These +slaughters also afford great quantities of hides, especially +goat-skins, which they dress like Morocco leather, by them called +cordovanes, and is sent into Peru for making shoes, or other uses. + +[Footnote 2: Paraguay is here used in far too extensive a sense, +as comprising the whole level country to the east of the Andes: The +plains of Cuyo are those alluded to in the text.--E.] + +[Footnote 3: The Pehneuches are probably here meant, who dwell on the +west side of the Andes, between the latitudes of 33 deg. and 36 deg. S. The +Puelches on the same side of the Andes, from 36 deg. to 40 deg..--E.] + +[Footnote 4: Perhaps, instead of the goats in the text, _vicunnas_ +ought to be understood.--E.] + +Besides the trade of hides, tallow, and dried meat, the inhabitants of +Conception send every year eight or ten ships of forty or fifty tons +to Calao laden with corn; besides supplying meal and biscuit to the +French ships, which take in provisions there in order to proceed +to Peru, and for their voyage back to France. All this were quite +inconsiderable for so fine a country, were it better peopled; since +the land is so extraordinarily fertile, were it well cultivated, that +they only scratch it for the most part, by means of a plough made of a +crooked stick, and drawn by two oxen; and, though the seed be scarcely +covered, it produces seldom less than an hundred fold. Neither are +they at any more pains in procuring their vines, in order to make good +wine. Besides which, as they have not the art to glaze their jars in +which the wine is secured, to make them hold in, they are under the +necessity of pitching them. And this, together with the goat-skin bags +in which it is carried from the estancias, gives it a bitter taste +like treacle, and a flavour to which it is hard for strangers to +accustom themselves. The grasses also are allowed to grow without any +attention or industry being employed in grafting. Apples and pears +grow naturally in the woods, and in such abundance as it is hard to +comprehend how they could have so multiplied since the conquest, as +they affirm there were none in the country before. + +The mines of _Quilogoya_ and _Quilacura_ are within four leagues of +this port, and afford vast quantities of gold. At the _Estancia del +Re_, or king's farm, which is at no great distance, there is by far +the most plentiful _lavaders_, or washing-place for gold in all Chili, +where sometimes they find lumps of pure gold of prodigious size. The +mountains of the Cordelieras are reported to contain a continued chain +of mines for many hundred miles, which certainly is highly probable, +as hardly any of these mountains have hitherto been opened without +vast quantities of metal being found in them, especially fine copper, +of which all the artillery in the Spanish West Indies is constructed, +at least all that are used in the countries on the South Seas. + +The most considerable port in Chili is Valparaiso, which is esteemed +one of the best harbours on the whole coast of the South Sea. It lies +on a river fifteen leagues below St Jago, the capital of Chili.[5] +To this port all the riches of the mines on every side are brought, +particularly from those of _Tiltil_, which are immensely rich, and are +situated between St Jago and Valparaiso. The gold here is found in +a very hard stone, some of which sparkles and betrays the inclosed +treasure to the eye; but most of it does not shew the smallest sign +of gold, appearing merely a hard harsh stone of various colours, some +white, some red, some black. This ore, after being broken in pieces, +is grinded or stamped in a mill by the help of water, into a gross +powder, with which quicksilver is afterwards mixed. To this mixture a +brisk stream of water is let in, which reduces the earthy matters to a +kind of mud, which is carried off by the current, the amalgam of gold +and quicksilver remaining at the bottom, in consequence of its weight. +This amalgam is then put into a linen bag, and pressed very hard, +by which the greatest part of the mercury is strained off, and the +remainder is evaporated off by the force of fire, leaving the gold in +a little wedge or mass, shaped like a pine-apple, whence it is called +a _pinna_. This is afterwards melted and cast in a mould, to know its +exact weight, and to ascertain the proportion of silver that is mixed +with the gold, no farther process of refining being done here. The +weightiness of the gold, and the facility with which it forms an +amalgam with the mercury, occasions it easily to part from the dross +or earthy matters of the stone or matrix. This is a great advantage +to the gold-miners, as they every day know what they get; but the +silver-miners often do not know how much they get till two months +after, owing to the tediousness of their operation, as formerly +described. + +[Footnote 5: This is a material error. Valparaiso is on no river, and +lies forty English miles north from the river Maypo, on one of the +upper branches of which, the Mapocho, St Jago is situated.--E.] + +According to the nature of these gold-mines, and the comparative +richness of the veins, every _caxon_, or chest of fifty quintals, +yields four, five, or six ounces of gold. When it only yields two +ounces, the miner does not cover his charges, which often happens; but +he sometimes receives ample amends, when he meets with good veins; and +the gold-mines are those which produce metals the most unequally. In +following a vein, it frequently widens, then becomes narrower, and +then seems to disappear, all within a small space of ground; and this +sport of nature makes the miners live in continual hopes of finding +what they call a _purse_, being the expanded end of a vein, which is +sometimes so rich as to make a man's fortune at once; yet this same +inequality sometimes ruins them, which is the reason that it is more +rare to see a gold-miner rich than a silver-miner, or even one in any +other metal, although there be less expence in extracting gold from +the mineral than any other metal. For this reason also the gold-miners +have the particular privilege that they cannot be sued to execution in +civil actions. Gold only pays a twentieth part to the king, which +duty is called _Covo_, from the name of a private individual at whose +instance the duty was thus reduced, gold having formerly paid a fifth, +as silver still does. + +On the descent of this mountain of _Tiltil_, there runs, during the +rainy season, a brisk stream of water, which passes through among +the gold-ore, and washes away abundance of that rich metal, as it +ripens[6] and breaks from its bed. On this account, this stream is +accounted one of the richest lavaderos in all Chili for four months +of every year; and well it may, as there are sometimes found in it +pellets of gold of an ounce weight. At _Palma_, about four leagues +from Valparaiso, there is another rich lavadero; and every where +throughout the country, the fall of a brook or rivulet is accompanied +by more or less of these golden showers, the richest of which fall +into the laps of the jesuits, who farm or purchase abundance of mines +and lavaderos, which are wrought for their benefit by their servants. +The soil in the neighbourhood of Valparaiso is exceedingly rich and +fertile, so that forty ships go from thence yearly to Calao, laden +with corn; yet that commodity still remains so cheap at this place, +where money is so abundant, that an English bushel of wheat may be +bought for less than three shillings. It would be still cheaper, could +all the country be cultivated; but as it has constant dry weather for +eight months endurance, cultivation is only possible where they have +brooks or little rills in the vales coming from the mountains, which +can be applied for irrigating or watering the cultivated land. + +[Footnote 6: That is, as the matrix or rock in which it is contained, +moulders and decays by the influences of the weather and of this +stream; for the notion of ores ripening is a mere dream or fancy.--E.] + +There is a great trade carried on to all parts of Chili from the +Atlantic ocean, by way of Buenos Ayres, whence the Chilese receive +some European goods, together with large sums in silver, in return +for their commodities. This is perhaps the largest route of Indian +commerce in the world, as the road from Buenos Ayres to Potosi is 1500 +miles; and though the distance from Valparaiso be not above 160 miles +more,[7] yet it is attended with much greater difficulty, as the +vast chain of mountains called the Cordelieras of the Andes has to be +passed, which can only be done during the three first months of the +year, the passes being impracticable at all other times. At that +season the merchants come from Mendoza, an inland town about 300 +leagues from Buenos Ayres, and travel through the mountains to St +Jago. The passage of the mountains usually takes up six or seven days, +though only about sixty leagues, and the travellers have not only to +carry their own provisions with them, but also the provender of their +mules, as the whole of that part of the road is a continued series +of rocks and precipices, and all the country round so barren and so +exposed to snows in winter, that it is utterly uninhabitable. The +remainder of the journey, from St Jago to the mines, and from thence +to Valparaiso, is both safe and pleasant; and in this the merchants +have nothing to fear, except staying too long, and losing their +passage home through the mountains for that season, in which case they +would have to remain in Chili at least nine months longer than they +intended. + +[Footnote 7: In these estimates, Betagh has been very unfortunate, as +the direct distance from Buenos Ayres to Potosi does not exceed 1100 +miles, and the distance from Valparaiso, also in a straight line, is +hardly 800 miles.--E.] + +On the whole, though a very great part of the enormous extent of +the Spanish dominions in South America be absolutely desert, and the +people in some of the inhabited parts do not acquire large fortunes, +yet the Spanish settlers in Chili certainly procure immense riches +yearly, as the country is but thinly inhabited, and all the gold +drawn from the mines and lavadores must be divided among them. It +is evident, however, that the greater part of the inhabitants do not +abound in wealth. Those among them who deal in cattle, corn, and the +other productions of the country, only acquire moderate fortunes; +and those who are concerned in the mines are frequently ruined by +launching out into unsuccessful speculations, and by expensive living. +Those who are easy in their circumstances, and retire to the city of +St Jago, Jago, live in such a manner as sufficiently demonstrates +the riches of Chili; as all their utensils, even those of the most +ordinary sort, are of pure gold, and it is believed that the wealth +of that city cannot fall short of twenty millions.[8] Add to this, +the gold-mines are continually increasing, and it is only for want +of hands that they are not wrought to infinitely more advantage; for +those already discovered and now neglected, would be sufficient to +employ 40,000 men. It may also be observed, that the frauds practised +against the royal revenue are increasing daily, and, as the riches +of the Spanish West Indies are measured by the amount of the royal +revenue, this must make them appear poorer than they are in reality. +We have one instance of this in the mines of Potosi, which are said to +produce less silver than they did formerly; yet, on a computation +for fifty years, the annual revenue to the king has amounted, on the +average, to 220,000 _pesos_, of thirteen rials and a quarter yearly, +which shews that the annual produce of these mines, so far as it has +paid the royal duty, amounts nearly to two million pieces of eight, +or dollars, and it may be confidently asserted that the royal treasury +does not receive above half of what is due: wherefore, from this +example, the rest may be judged of. + +[Footnote 8: The coin or denomination is not specified: If dollars, at +4s. 6d., this would amount to four millions and a half sterling.--E.] + +Sec. 7. _SOME ACCOUNT OF THE FRENCH INTERLOPERS IN CHILI._ + +As the policy of Spain chiefly consists in endeavouring, by all +possible means, to prevent the riches of these extensive dominions +from passing into other hands, so the knowledge possessed by other +nations of the great wealth of these countries, and of the great +demand for European manufactures among their inhabitants, has excited +almost every nation in Europe to devise every possible contrivance for +coming in for a share in these riches, and this with such effect, that +it is even questionable whether any considerable portion of the riches +of the new world centres among the inhabitants of Old Spain. This may +be judged of from the following considerations: Even the trade carried +on from Spain to the new world is of much greater importance to +foreigners than to the Spaniards themselves. For as Spain has few +commodities of its own, and carries on scarcely any manufactures, the +Spanish merchants at Cadiz have to make up their cargoes by means of +purchases from other countries; or rather the Cadiz merchants are mere +factors for the merchants of England, France, and Holland, whose goods +they send to America, and pay them by the returns made in the Plate +fleets. Spain also is a country very ill provided with some of the +necessaries of life, and most of the conveniences; so that prodigious +sums of the money brought from America have to be yearly exported for +the purchase of these. + +Besides such drawbacks as the above, to which the Spaniards willingly +submit, there are many others which they are forced to endure: For +instance, all the negroes they employ in their plantations, in +which every kind of labour is performed by them, are purchased from +foreigners, particularly the English and Dutch, at a very large +annual expence; and, under pretence of furnishing them with negroes, a +clandestine trade is carried on every year, along the whole coasts +of their possessions on the Atlantic. In the South Sea, however, +they were tolerably free from every thing except the depredations +of pirates, till the general war on account of the succession to the +crown of Spain, which created a new kind of contraband trade, unknown +in former times, of which I now propose to give some account. + +The _French interlopers_ carried vast quantities of goods directly +from Europe into the South Seas, which till then had hardly ever been +attempted by any European nation. This was always viewed with an evil +eye by the court of Spain, as repugnant to the interests of Spain, and +diametrically opposite to the maxims of her government; but there +were many circumstances at that time which rendered this a kind of +necessary evil, and obliged therefore the people of Old Spain to +submit to it. As for the Creoles, they had European goods and at a +cheaper rate, and it did not give them much concern who it was that +received their money. The town of St Malo has always been noted for +privateers, and greatly annoyed the trade of the English and Dutch +during the whole reign of King William, and part of that of Queen +Anne; and though some allege that money procured by privateering never +prospers, yet I may safely affirm that the people of St Malo are as +rich and flourishing as any in all France. Privateering has thriven +so well among them, that all their South Sea trade has arisen from +thence; and, during the last war, they were so rich and generous, +that they made several free gifts to Louis XIV.; and so dexterous were +they, that though our Admiralty always kept a stout squadron in +the Atlantic, we were never able to capture one of their South-Sea +traders. The reason of this was, that they always kept their ships +extremely clean, having ports to careen at of which we knew not. In +1709, when I belonged to her majesty's ship the Loo, being one of the +convoy that year to Newfoundland, we saw and chased upon that coast +a ship of fifty guns, which we soon perceived to be French-built; but +she crowded sail and soon left us. She had just careened at Placentia, +and we wondered much to find such a ship in that part of the world. We +afterwards learnt, from some French prisoners, that she was a French +ship bound to St Malo, having two or three millions of dollars on +board, and was then so trim that she trusted to her heels, and valued +nobody. They went thus far to the north and west on purpose to have +the advantage of a westerly wind, which seldom failed of sending them +into soundings at one spirt, if not quite home. Since Placentia +has been yielded to Great Britain, they now use St Catherine and +Islagrande, on the coast of Brasil, and Martinico in the West Indies. + +This trade succeeded so well, that all the merchants of St Malo +engaged in it, sending every year to the number of twenty sail of +ships. In 1721, I saw eleven sail of these together at one time on the +coast of Chili, among which were several of fifty guns, and one called +the _Fleur-de-luce_, which could mount seventy, formerly a man-of-war. +As this trade was contrary to the _Assiento_ treaty between Great +Britain and Spain, memorials were frequently presented against it +at Madrid by the court of London; and the king of Spain, willing to +fulfil his engagements to the king of England, resolved to destroy +this contraband French trade. As there was no other way to accomplish +this but by sending a squadron of men-of-war into the South Sea, and +as few of the Spaniards were acquainted with the navigation of Cape +Horn, or could bear the extreme rigour of the climate, the court of +Spain was obliged to use foreigners on this expedition, and the +four ships sent oat were both manned and commanded by Frenchmen. The +squadron consisted of the _Gloucester_, of 50 guns, and 400 men, the +_Ruby_, of 50 guns, and 330 men, both of these formerly English ships +of war, the _Leon Franco_, of 60 guns, and 450 men, and a frigate +of 40 guns, and 200 men. Monsieur _Martinet_, a French officer, was +commodore of this squadron, and commanded the _Pembroke_,[1] and +Monsieur _La Jonquiere_ the Ruby. The French conducted the navigation +round the cape very well, though in the middle of winter; but the last +ship of the four, which was manned with Spaniards, could not weather +Cape Horn, and was forced back to the Rio Plata, where she was cast +away. As the Spaniards have little or no trade into any of the cold +climates, and are unused to hard work, it is not to be wondered that +they failed on this occasion, especially considering the improper +season of the year. The Biscaneers, indeed, are robust enough fellows; +and had the Leon Franco been manned with them, she had certainly +doubled the cape along with the other three ships; but the Spaniards +in general, since acquiring their possessions in America, have become +so delicate and indolent, that it would be difficult to find an entire +ship's company capable to perform that navigation. + +[Footnote 1: No such name occurs, in enumerating the squadron +immediately before--E.] + +The vast advantage of the trade of Chili by way of Cape Horn, is so +obvious, that his catholic majesty is obliged by treaty to shut out +all the European nations from it, as well as the English, although +his own subjects make nothing of it, as it very rarely happens that +a Spanish ship ventures to go round Cape Horn. Owing to this, all +European goods sell enormously dear in Chili and Peru; insomuch, that +I have been told at Lima, that they are often at 400 per cent. profit, +and it may be fairly asserted, that the goods carried from France by +Cape Horn are in themselves 50 per cent. better than those sent in +the Cadiz _flota_ to Carthagena and Vera Cruz, because the former are +delivered in six months, fresh and undamaged, while the latter are +generally eighteen months before they reach Chili. In the course of +this trade, the French sold their goods, furnished themselves with +provisions, and got home again, all within twelve or fourteen months. + +When Martinet arrived on the coast of Chili in 1717, furnished with a +commission from the king of Spain to take or destroy all the ships of +his countrymen found trading in the South Sea, he soon had sufficient +employment for his squadron and of fourteen ships belonging to St +Malo, then on the coast, only one escaped him, which lay hid in a +landlocked creek unseen till he had gone to leeward. Although in this +he executed the orders of his catholic majesty, and did a material +benefit to the British South Sea company, yet he almost ruined the +trading part of the Creole Spaniards, as hindering the circulation of +money and spoiling business, so that they could not bear the sight +of the French men-of-war, though they liked the French merchant ships +very much. On the other hand, imagining that they had done essential +service to the Spaniards, the French expected to have received at +least civil treatment in return, during their stay in these seas. +As soon, however, as Martinet brought his prizes into Calao, and the +Frenchmen had received their shares of the prize-money, forgetting +the ancient antipathy of the Spaniards for the French, they gave +themselves extravagant airs on shore, by dancing and drinking, which +still more incensed the creolians against them, who called them +cavachos and renegados, for falling foul of their own countrymen. From +one thing to another, their mutual quarrels grew so high, that the +Frenchmen were obliged to go about Lima and Calao in strong armed +parties, the better to avoid outrages and affronts. At last, a young +gentleman, who was ensign of the Ruby, and nephew to Captain La +Jonquiere, was shot from a window, and the murderer took refuge in +the great church of Calao. Martinet and La Jonquiere petitioned the +viceroy to have the murderer delivered up to justice: But the viceroy, +who was at the same time archbishop, would on no account consent to +violate the privileges of the church. On this refusal, they called all +their men on board by beat of drum, and laid the broadsides of their +three ships to bear on the town of Calao, threatening to demolish +the town and fortifications, unless the assassin were delivered up +or executed. All this blustering, however, could not prevail upon the +viceroy to give them any satisfaction, though they had several other +men killed, besides that gentleman. + +At length, unwilling to proceed to extremities, and no longer able +to endure the place where his nephew had been murdered, La Jonquiere +obtained leave of his commodore to make the best of his way home. +About this time, many _padros_ and many rich passengers were assembled +at Conception in Chili, intending to take their passage to Europe in +the French squadron, knowing that all ships bound for Cape Horn must +touch at Conception, or some places thereabout, for provisions. +La Jonquiere, having thus the start of his commodore, had all the +advantage to himself of so many good passengers in his ship; for, as +the king of Spain had no officer at Conception to register the +money shipped at that place, these passengers and missionaries put +astonishing sums of money on board the Ruby. They were thereby spared +the trouble of a voyage to Panama or Acapulco, and travelling thence +for Portobello or Vera Cruz, where they must have had their coffers +visited, to see if the _indulto_ of his majesty were fairly accounted +for. They therefore saved every shilling of that _indulto_, as the +Ruby touched first in France, where no cognizance whatever was taken +of this affair. They also got clear of the other moiety payable in +Spain, as they landed all their money in France. + +Besides these rich passengers and their money, the Ruby had also on +board a considerable sum arising to his catholic majesty from the +confiscation of the thirteen captured interlopers, all of which, as I +was informed, amounted to four millions of dollars in that ship. What +a fine booty we missed therefore by the obstinacy of Shelvocke! For, +when this ship, the Ruby, found us at the island of St Catharine, her +company was so sickly that she had not above sixty sound men out of +four hundred; so that La Jonquiere was actually afraid of us, and +would not send his boat to the watering-place, where we kept guard, +and our coopers and sail-makers were at work, till he had first +obtained leave of our captain; neither is this strange, for he knew we +had a consort, and was in Spain all the time he staid there, lest the +Success should have joined us. + +After Commodore Martinet had cleared the coast of Chili and Peru +of his countrymen, he sent his brother-in-law, Monsieur de Grange, +express with the news to Madrid, who went by way of Panama, +Portobello, Jamaica, and London. On delivering his message, the king +of Spain asked what he could do for him, when he humbly requested his +majesty would give him the command of a ship, and send him again round +Cape Horn into the South Sea. He accordingly got the Zelerin, of fifty +guns. He came first to _Calais_,[2] where the ship was getting ready, +and was surprised to meet with a cold reception from the French +merchants and other gentlemen of his acquaintance residing there; for, +as there were merchants of various nations interested in the ships +taken and confiscated in the South Sea, they universally considered +him and all the French in that squadron as false brethren, for serving +the crown of Spain to the prejudice of their own countrymen. Thus, +while he expected to have had a valuable cargo consigned to his care, +no man would ship the value of a dollar with him. Captain Fitzgerald, +who was then at _Cales_, made him a considerable offer for the +privilege of going out as his second officer, with liberty to take out +what goods he might be able to procure, in his own name. As de Grange +was not a little embarrassed, he accepted this offer, and procured a +commission for Fitzgerald as second captain. They accordingly manned +the Zelerin chiefly with French seamen, and some English, and got very +well round Cape Horn. At this time our two privateers, the Success and +Speedwell, were known to be in the South Seas, and the Zelerin was +one of the ships commissioned by the viceroy of Peru to cruize for +us. Fitzgerald sold all his goods to great advantage at Lima, where he +continued to reside; while de Grange served as captain under Admiral +Don Pedro Miranda, who took Hately and me prisoners. + +[Footnote 2: This, certainly, is a mistake for Cadiz, often named +Cales by English seamen; and, in fact, only a few lines lower down, +the place is actually named Cales.--E.] + +Though great sufferers by so many confiscations, the merchants of St +Malo were not entirely discouraged; for, in the year 1720, we found +the Solomon of St Malo, of 40 guns, and 150 men, at _Ylo_, on the +coast of Chili, with several Spanish barks at her stern. In the course +of six weeks, she sold all her cargo, got in a supply of provisions, +and left the coast without interruption, as by this time Martinet's +squadron had left the coast. Encouraged by the success of the Solomon, +the merchants of St Malo fitted out fourteen sail together, all of +which arrived in the South Sea in the beginning of the year 1721. +Three of the commanders of these ships, being well acquainted with the +creolians, quickly sold their cargoes and returned home. About this +time, the people of Lima judged that our privateers were gone off the +coast, or at least would not commit any more hostilities, because +of the truce between the two crowns. Wherefore, the three Spanish +men-of-war that had been fitted out to cruize against us, were ordered +against these fresh interlopers. I was on board the Flying-fish, an +advice-boat that accompanied the men-of-war, when they came up with +eleven sail of the St Malo ships, which were then altogether on the +coast of Chili, and, instead of firing on them, the Spaniards joined +them as friends. At first, expecting to have been attacked, the French +ships drew up in a line, as if daring the ships of war. This seemed to +me somewhat strange, that three such ships, purposely fitted out for +this cruize, should decline doing their duty on their own coasts; for, +had they proved too weak, they had ports of their own to retire +to, under their lee. But the ships of war contented themselves with +watching the motions of the interlopers, keeping them always in sight; +and when any of the French ships drew near the shore, the Spaniards +always sent a pinnace or long-boat along with her, carrying the +Spanish flag, the sight of which effectually deterred the creolians +from trading with the French. In this manner they contrived to prevent +all these ships from disposing of their goods, except when they +were met with at sea by chance, and sold some of their commodities +clandestinely. At length, completely tired out by this close +superintendence, the French got leave to take in provisions, and went +home, at least half of their goods remaining unsold. Notwithstanding +these losses and disappointments, and severe edicts issued against +this trade in France, the merchants of St Malo still persist to carry +it on, though privately, nor is it probable they will ever leave off +so lucrative a commerce, unless prevented by the strong arm of power, +or supplanted by some other nation. + +Sec. 8. RETURN OF BETAGH TO ENGLAND. + +I now return to my own affairs, and the manner of my return to England +from Peru. I have already acknowledged the kind reception I met with +from the admiral of the South Seas, Don Pedro Miranda, and the reasons +of his treating us so civilly. I think it barely justice to mention +the several favours I received, during the eleven months that I +continued at Lima, particularly from Don Juan Baptista Palacio, a +native of Biscay, a knight of the order of St Jago, who came weekly +to the prison while we were there, and distributed money to us all, in +proportion to our several ranks. Captain Nicholas Fitzgerald procured +my enlargement, by becoming security for me; and he afterwards +supplied me with money and necessaries, from that time till my +departure; and procured for me and twenty more, a passage to Cadiz, in +a Spanish advice-boat called the Flying-fish, of which our surgeon's +mate, Mr Pressick, acted as surgeon, receiving wages, as did the +rest of our men, being released from prison expressly to assist in +navigating that vessel home to Spain. For my own part, being well +treated, I did not think proper to eat the bread of idleness, but kept +my watches as well as the other officers. And pray, what is the harm +of all this? Though Shelvocke had the stupidity to call it treason; +it must surely appear a very malicious, as well as an ignorant charge, +after a man has been driven among the enemy, to call him a traitor +because he has been kindly used, and for accepting his passage back +again; and, because I was not murdered in Peru, I ought to be +executed at home. This is Shelvocke's great Christian charity and good +conscience![1] + +[Footnote 1: After all, had the Flying-fish been captured by a British +cruizer, Betagh would have run great risk of being found guilty of +treason for _keeping his watches_.--E.] + +On my arrival at Cadiz, captain John Evers of the Britannia kindly +gave me my passage to London, and entertained me at his own table. On +my return to London, and representing the hardships I had undergone, +nine honourable persons made me a present of ten guineas each; which +afforded me the satisfaction of seeing, that such as were the best +judges, had a proper idea of the miseries I had suffered, and approved +the manner in which I had behaved, the only consolation I could +receive in the circumstances in which I was left by that unfortunate +voyage. The fair account I have given of facts, and the detail of my +proceedings in the Spanish West Indies, together with the account of +what I observed worthy of notice during my stay in these parts, +will acquit me, I hope, in the opinion of every candid and impartial +person, from the aspersions thrown upon me by Shelvocke, in the +account he has published of his voyage. + + * * * * * + +_Note._ + +"Betagh has fully shewn, that the navigation round Cape Horn is no +such dangerous or wonderful voyage. If twenty ships from St Malo could +perform it in one year, and not a single vessel either shipwrecked or +forced to put back, what shall hinder an English ship or an English +fleet from doing the same? We see from the foregoing account, with how +much ease the French carried on a prodigious trade to the South Seas, +at a time when the appearance of an English ship there was esteemed +a prodigy. We certainly can send our frigates there, as well as the +French can their ships from St Malo; and it might be well worth the +while of our merchants to send out ships to the coasts of Chili and +Peru, laden with proper goods for that country."--_Harris._ + +In the present day, this trade to the coasts of Chili and Peru has +been resumed by the citizens of the United States; but the subjects +of Britain are debarred from even attempting to take a share, because +within the exclusive limits of the East India Company; although their +ships never come nearer to the western coast of America than Canton +in China, at the enormous distance of 174 degrees of longitude, and +59 degrees of latitude, counting from Canton in China to Conception in +Peru, or upwards of _twelve thousand English miles_. It is certainly +at least extremely desirable, that a trade of such promise should not +remain any longer prohibited, merely to satisfy a punctilio, without +the most distant shadow of benefit to the India Company, or to the +nonentity denominated the South-sea Company.--_Ed._ + + + + +CHAPTER XIII. + +VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD, BY COMMODORE ROGGEWEIN, IS 1721-1723.[1] + + + +INTRODUCTION. + +There was, perhaps, no country in the world where commerce was more +profitable, or held more honourable, than in Holland, or where more +respect and attention was shewn to it by the government. As the +republic chiefly subsisted by trade, every thing relating to it was +considered as an affair of a public nature, in which the welfare +of the state was concerned, and highly deserving therefore of the +strictest and readiest attention. The great companies in Holland, +as in other countries, were considered as injurious to trade in +some lights, yet necessary to its welfare in others. The _West India +Company_ of that country, originally erected in 1621, held, by an +exclusive charter, the commerce of the coast of Africa, from the +tropic of Cancer to the Cape of Good Hope, and that of America, from +the southern point of Newfoundland in the N.E. all along the eastern +coast to the Straits of Magellan or Le Maire, and thence northwards +again along the western coast, to the supposed Straits of Anian, thus +including the entire coasts of the Atlantic and Pacific oceans. The +directors of this company consisted of seventy-two persons, divided +into five chambers, of whom eighteen were chosen to administer the +affairs of the Company, together with a nineteenth person, nominated +by the States-General. + +[Footnote 1: Harris, I. 256. Callender, III. 644.] + +The affairs of this Company were once in so very flourishing a +condition, that it was considered as even superior to their East India +Company. This prosperity was chiefly owing, to the happy success of +their affairs at sea; as their admiral, Peter Haines, in the 1629, +captured the Spanish plate fleet, laden with immense riches. They at +one time made themselves masters of the greatest part of Brazil; and +were so considerable that the great Count Maurice of Nassau did not +think it beneath him to accept a commission from this Company as +Governor-General of Brazil; which country, however, after it had cost +them immense sums to defend, they at length lost. The term of their +charter, originally limited to twenty-four years, expired in 1647, +and was then renewed for other twenty-five years. During this second +period, their affairs became so perplexed, so that the Company was +dissolved towards the close of that term, with its own consent. + +In 1674, a new company was erected, by letters patent from the +States-General, with nearly the same powers and privileges, which has +subsisted ever since with great reputation.[2] The capital of this +new company consisted of six millions of florins, which are equal +to 545,454l. 10s. 10d. 10-11ths sterling. And the limits of their +authority are the western coast of Africa and both coasts of America, +all the establishments of the Dutch in these countries being under +their authority, so that any one who proposes a new scheme of commerce +in those parts, must necessarily apply himself to that company. Under +these circumstances, a Mr Roggewein, a person of parts and enterprize, +formed a project for the discovery of the vast continent and numerous +islands, supposed to be in the southern part of the globe, under the +name of _Terra Australis Incognita_, of which the world had hitherto +only very imperfect notices from others; which project, with a plan +for carrying the discovery into execution, they presented to the Dutch +_East_ India Company[3] in 1696, by which it was favourably received, +and he was assured of receiving all the assistance and support he +could desire or expect, as soon as the affairs of the Company would +permit. But the disturbances which soon afterwards followed put a stop +to the good intentions of the Company; and Mr Roggewein died before +any thing could be done. Mr Roggewein was a gentleman of the province +of Zealand, who had addicted himself from his youth to mathematical +studies, and we have reason to suppose recommended his projected +discovery on his death-bed to his son. + +[Footnote 2: This refers to the year 1743, when Harris wrote: It +is hardly necessary to say, that Holland and its great commercial +companies are now merely matters of history.--E.] + +[Footnote 3: From what goes both before and after, this seems a +mistake for the _West_ India Company.--E.] + +After the death of his father, the younger Roggewein applied to his +studies with much vigour, and qualified himself for the office of +counsellor in the court of justice at Batavia, where he resided +for many years. After his return from Java, where he had acquired a +handsome fortune, he resolved upon carrying his father's projected +discovery into execution; and, in the year 1721, presented a memorial +to the West India Company, narrating the proposal of his father +for discovering the southern continent and islands, which they had +formerly been pleased to approve of, and which he was now ready to +attempt. The Company received this memorial with readiness; and, as +its affairs were now in better order, acquainted Mr Roggewein, that it +would give immediate orders for equipping such a squadron as might +be necessary for carrying his design into effect. The squadron +accordingly fitted out on this occasion consisted of three ships: The +Eagle of 36 guns and 111 men, commanded by Captain Job Coster, and in +which Mr Roggewein embarked as Commodore; the Tienhoven of 28 guns and +100 men, commanded by Captain James Bowman; and the African, a galley +armed with 14 guns, and carrying 60 men, commanded by Captain Henry +Bosenthal. + +It may be proper to acquaint the reader, that the subsequent account +of this voyage is derived from an original journal, which never +appeared before in our language, for which I was indebted to the +gentleman who commanded the land-forces on board the Commodore, and +whose name I am not at liberty to mention; neither that of another +gentleman who was engaged in the voyage, and from whom I received +considerable assistance. The nature of the expedition is sufficient +in itself to recommend it to the notice of the curious; and the many +remarkable particulars it contains, especially respecting the state of +the Dutch Company in the Indies, renders it both a very entertaining +and a most instructive performance. + +Before proceeding to the narrative of this voyage, I hope to be +indulged in making a few remarks, which may contribute both to +amusement and information, and may clear up some points that might +otherwise appear obscure in the following voyage. It is worth +observing, that the Dutch West India Company had been long in a +declining condition; which, instead of dispiriting the Directors, +engaged them to turn their thoughts to every method that could be +devised for recovering their affairs. There is so wide a difference +between our English great chartered companies and those [formerly] +in Holland, that it may not be amiss to give a concise account of the +flourishing state of that Company, as it may shew what great things +may be managed by a board of merchants, for such the Directors +generally were. + +It appears, from the books of the Company, that, in the space of +thirteen years, from 1623 to 1636, the Company had fitted out 800 +ships, either for war or trade, and that the expence of building, +equipping, and seamen's wages had cost forty-five millions of florins, +or upwards of _four millions_ sterling: And, in the same space of +time, the Company had taken from the enemy 545 vessels, valued at +_sixty millions_ of florins, or nearly _five and a half millions_ +sterling; besides to the value of _thirty millions_ at the least, or +nearly _two millions and a quarter_ sterling, in spoils of various +denominations. The greatest of their exploits was the capture of the +Spanish _flota_ at the Havannah, by their admiral Peter Heyne; by +which they gained seven millions of dollars in money, or L. 2,625,000 +sterling; besides ships, brass cannon, and other military stores, to +the value of above ten millions.[4] Such were the flourishing times of +the Company. + +[Footnote 4: Harris does not say whether dollars or florins: If the +former, equal to L. 2,250,000 sterling at 4s. 6d. the dollar; if the +latter, a little above L. 900,000 sterling at 11 florins to the pound +sterling; both of these the old par of exchange.--E.] + +The causes of their decay seem to have been principally the following. +_First_, their emulation of the East India Company, which induced +them to make the conquest of Brazil from Portugal, the crown of which +country had been usurped by their arch enemy the king of Spain. This +was achieved at a vast expence, and Count Maurice of Nassau was +appointed governor-general, who conducted their affairs with great +skill and prudence. _Secondly_, owing to the desire of the Company +to conduct all things, and repining at the expence incurred by +that prince in the government of Brazil, was another cause of their +misfortunes: For the merchants, who had conducted their affairs with +great wisdom and capacity, while they confined themselves to commerce +and maritime war, shewed themselves only indifferent statesmen, and +soon lost all that Prince Maurice had gained, and loaded the Company +with so heavy a debt, as compelled them in the end to consent to its +dissolution. + +The new West India Company, warned by the example of its predecessors, +has kept more within bounds, and has certainly managed its affairs +with great prudence and economy. Having formed a project in 1714, +for uniting the East and West India Companies into one,[5] and the +proposition, being rejected, the directors of the West India +Company very wisely turned their thoughts another way; and it is not +improbable, that the rejection of their proposal on this occasion +may have induced them to give encouragement to the proposition of +Roggewein: For, being disappointed in their aim of coming in for a +share in the commodities of the East Indies, they were desirous of +acquiring the same articles of trade by some other means, expecting to +have found these in the continent or islands proposed to be discovered +by Roggewein. This also accounts for the extraordinary heat and +violence of the Dutch East India Company, against those who were +engaged on the present expedition, and is the true secret of the +dispute so warmly carried on by the two Companies, and so wisely +decided by the States-General. When the Dutch East India Company +persecuted and destroyed Le Maire for his voyage of discovery, +under pretence of interfering within their exclusive boundaries, the +government did not interfere, because at that time the power of the +East India Company was of the highest importance to the state: But, +as the government of Holland became better established, and especially +since a share in the public administration has been acquired by such +as are conversant in trade, the concerns of the East India Company +have been viewed in a new light. The first who explained this matter +clearly was that consummate statesman and true patriot, John de Witte, +whose words are most worthy the attention of the reader. + +[Footnote 5: A long, indistinct, and uninteresting account of this +project is here omitted, which Harris alleges might have transferred +the whole commerce of Europe to the Dutch, but for which opinion he +advances no substantial reasons, or rather none at all.--E.] + +"When the East India Company had attained to a certain extent of power +and grandeur, its interests came not only to clash with, but grew +absolutely opposite to those of the country. For, whereas the +advantage of the nation consists in the increase of manufactures, +commerce, and freight of ships; the interests of the Company are to +promote the sale of foreign manufactures, and that with the smallest +extent of traffic and navigation that can be contrived. Hence, if +the East India Company can gain more by importing Japan cloths, India +quilts, carpets, and chintzes, than by raw silk; or, if the Company, +by creating an artificial scarcity of nutmegs, mace, cloves, cinnamon, +and other spices, can raise their price so as to gain as much profit +by the sale of 100 tons, as it would otherwise gain by the sale of +1000 tons, we are not to expect that it will import raw silks, or be +at the expence of transporting 1000 tons of spice; though the former +would assist and encourage our manufactures at home, and the latter +would increase our navigation. + +This chain of reasoning is so plain, and so evidently agrees with the +interests of all nations, as well as with those of Holland, that it +is impossible for any unprejudiced person not to discern that all +exclusive companies destroy, instead of promoting, the commerce of +the countries in which they are established. The same great statesman +already quoted observes, "That the more any country extends its +foreign conquests, the more of its stock must necessarily be spent, +for the preservation and defence of these conquests: And consequently, +by how much the greater are its dominions, so much the less is that +company able to prosecute the trade, for the promotion of which it was +erected."[6]--_Harris._ + +[Footnote 6: The remarks of Harris on this voyage are extended to a +far greater length than have been here adopted, and are many of them +loose and uninteresting; but some of those here inserted have a strong +reference to a most important subject now under consideration of the +legislature; and the notices respecting the Dutch West India Companies +are curious in themselves, as well as upon a subject very little known +in this country. + +The subject of this voyage round the world is principally exhausted +in the _seven_ first sections; all those subsequent being chiefly a +detail of the Indian settlements of the Dutch East India Company, as +it was in the year 1722, almost a century ago. These certainly might +have been omitted on the present occasion, without injury to the +present article, as a _circumnavigation_: But, as conveying a +considerable mass of information, respecting the _Dutch possessions in +India_, now all belonging to Britain, and respecting which hardly any +thing has been published in the English language, it has been deemed +indispensable to preserve them.--E.] + + + +SECTION I. + +_Narrative of the Voyage from Holland to the Coast of Brazil._[1] + +The small squadron of three ships, already enumerated, sailed +from Amsterdam on the 16th July, 1721, and arrived at the Texel in +thirty-six hours, where they were provided with every thing requisite +for so long a voyage. All things being in readiness, they sailed with +a fair wind on the 21st August; but, as the wind changed next day, +they were three days in beating to windward through the British +channel, after which they continued their course to the S.W. for the +coast of Barbary, but were opposed by a heavy storm which did them +considerable damage. To this a dead calm succeeded, during which the +water ran mountains high, owing to agitation they had been thrown into +by the storm. By the rolling of the ships during the calm, several +injuries were sustained, one of the vessels losing its main-top-mast +and mizen-mast; and the main-yard of the Commodore came down with such +force as to wound several of the people on deck. After two days the +wind freshened again, and they continued their course S.W. towards the +Canaries, amusing themselves with observing the manner in which the +flying-fish endeavours to escape from its enemies, the albicores and +bonitoes. The _flying-fish_ are not larger than a herring, and raise +themselves into the air by means of two long fins, one on each side, +not much unlike the wings of a bat in strength and texture. They are +considered as good eating, and the sailors are always well pleased +when they are met with in plenty. The _bonito_ is about two feet long, +of a greyish colour, finely streaked from head to tail; but the flesh +is hard, dry, and disagreeably tasted. The _albicore_ is generally +five or six feet long, and sometimes weighs 150 pounds. They saw +likewise several water-fowls, particularly _teal_, which the seamen +account a sign of land being near. + +[Footnote 1: In the various steps of this voyage, the merely +uninteresting journal or log-book incidents have been materially +abbreviated.--E.] + +While in lat. 28 deg. N. and soon expecting to see the Canaries, a sail +was descried from the mast-head carrying English colours. On drawing +near she struck her colours and bore away, but re-appeared in about an +hour, having four sail more in her company, sometimes carrying white, +sometimes red, and sometimes black colours, which gave reason to +suspect that they were pirates. The Commodore immediately made the +signal for the line of battle, and all hands went to work in clearing +the ship for action, filling grenades, and preparing every thing for +the ensuing engagement, in which they fortunately had the advantage +of the weather-gage. Observing this, the pirates put themselves into +a fighting posture, struck their red flag, and hoisted a black one, on +which was a death's head in the centre, surmounted by a powder horn, +and two cross bones underneath. They likewise formed the line, and +commenced a smart action. The pirates fought very briskly for some +time, as believing the Dutch ships to be merchantmen; but after two +hours cannonade, perceiving the Commodore preparing to board the +vessel to which he was opposed, the pirates spread all their canvass, +and crowded away as fast as they could sail. Commodore Roggewein, on +seeing them bear away, called out, _Let the rascals go:_ In which he +strictly obeyed his instructions; as all the ships belonging to the +Dutch East and West India Companies have strict orders to pursue their +course, and never to give chase. In this action, four men were killed, +and nine wounded in the Commodore, the other two ships having seven +slain and twenty-six wounded. The carpenters also had full employment +in stopping leaks, and repairing the other damages sustained. + +Continuing their voyage, they had sight of Madeira on the 15th +November, and in the neighbourhood saw a desert island which is much +frequented by the pirates, for wood and water and other refreshments. +They afterwards had sight of the Peak of Teneriffe, which is generally +esteemed the highest single mountain in the world, on which account +the geographers of Holland adopt it as the first meridian in their +maps and charts; while the French and English of late incline to +fix their first meridians at their respective capitals of Paris and +London. These differences are apt to create much confusion in the +longitudes of places, when not explained by the writers who use these +several modes of reckoning; on which account Lewis XIII. of France, by +edict in 1634, endeavoured to obviate this inconvenience, by directing +the first meridian to be placed in the island of Ferro, the most +westerly of the Canaries.[1] From these islands they directed their +course for the islands of Cape Verde, so named from Cabo Verde, or +the Green Cape, a point or mountain on the coast of Africa, called +_Arlinarium_ by Ptolemy. + +[Footnote 1: The Royal Observatory at Greenwich is now the first +meridian in British maps and globes, from which St Paul's in London is +0 deg. 5' 37" W. the observatory of Paris 2 deg. 20' E. Teneriffe peak 16 deg. 40' +W. and Ferrotown 17 deg. 45' 50" W.] + +This cape is bounded by two rivers, the Senegal and Gambia, called by +the ancients the _Garatius_ and _Stachiris_. It has an island to the +west, which is frequented by an infinite number of birds, the eggs of +which are frequently gathered by mariners going this way. This cape is +dangerous to land upon, because of a great many sunken rocks about +it. The continent is here inhabited by negroes, who trade with all +nations, and speak many languages, especially French and Portuguese. +Most of them go naked, except a piece of cloth about their middle, but +their princes and great men wear long garments of calico striped +with blue, and made like shifts; they hang also little square bags of +leather on their arms and legs, but we could not learn of them what +these bags contain.[2] They wear necklaces made of sea-horses teeth, +alternating with glass beads; and have caps of blue and white striped +calico on their heads. They are a prudent and wise people, cultivating +their soil, which bears good rice and other articles sufficient for +their maintenance; and the richer people keep cattle, which are very +dear, as being scarce. They have many good blacksmiths, and iron is +much, valued among them, being forged into fish-spears, implements for +cultivating the ground, and various weapons, as the heads of arrows, +darts, and javelins. Their religion seems to border on Mahometism, as +they are all circumcised; but they have little knowledge of the true +God, except among a few who converse with Christians. They are very +lascivious, and may have as many wives as they please; but the women +are seldom contented with one husband, and are passionately fond of +strangers. The whole country is under subjection to the governors +or head-men of the various towns and villages, who row on board such +ships as arrive, making them pay customs. Several Portuguese reside +here, who trade freely with all nations, but have no power or +authority, except over their own slaves and servants. + +[Footnote 2: These are called _obi_, containing a variety +of ridiculous trash, and are held in superstitious esteem as +amulets.--E.] + +Having the advantage of a strong N.E. wind, they took their departure +from Cape de Verde, and continued their course for six weeks, without +coming to anchor or handing a sail. In this long passage, they had +some days in which the heat was almost insupportable, and the crew +began to murmur excessively on account of being at short allowance of +water. On this occasion one of the swabbers got into the hold, and, +being extremely thirsty, pierced a cask of brandy, of which he pulled, +so heartily that he was soon intoxicated to a degree of madness. In +this condition he staggered into the cook-room, where he threw down a +pan of grease, and being sharply reproved by the cook, drew his knife +and rushed upon him. Some of the crew gathered about him and wrenched +the knife out of his hand, but not till he had drawn it two or three +times across the cook's face. For this they drubbed him soundly, which +he resented so deeply that he seized a knife as soon as he got loose, +and gave himself several stabs in the belly. The utmost care was taken +of his recovery, in order to make him a public example, to prevent +such actions in future among the crew; and after his recovery he +was punished in the following manner. Being declared infamous at +the fore-mast, he was thrice keel-hauled, and had 300 strokes on the +buttocks, after which his right hand was fastened to the mast with his +own knife. When he had stood some time in this condition, he was put +in chains on the fore-castle, being allowed nothing but bread and +water for some days; and was continued in irons to be set on shore at +the first barren island they came to. + +Continuing their voyage till near the line, they were much incommoded +by the shifting of the wind; and by scarcity of water, many of the +crew falling ill of the scurvy. When it sometimes fell entirely calm, +the heat of the sun became more than ordinarily oppressive, owing to +which some of the men became quite distracted, others fell into high +fevers, and some had fits like the epilepsy. Their water, as it grew +low, stunk abominably, and became full of worms. The salt provisions +were in a manner quite spoiled, and served only to turn their stomachs +and increase their thirst. Hunger is said to be the greatest of +torments, but they had reason to consider thirst as the greatest +misery incident to human nature. At this time they often observed +towards evening that the sea appeared all on fire; and taking up some +buckets of water in this condition, they observed that it was full of +an infinite number of little globules, of the size, form, and colour +of pearls. These retained their lustre for some time when held in the +hand, but on pressure seemed nothing more than an earthy fat substance +like mud. + +They at length crossed the line, with the loss only of one man, who +died of a high fever; and on getting into the latitude of 3 deg. S. they +fell into the true trade-wind, before which they scudded along at a +great rate. In lat. 5 deg. S. they had the sun directly vertical, so that +they were some days without any observation. In 6 deg. S. they caught +many dorados and dolphins, both, in the opinion of the author of this +voyage, being the same fish, of which the dolphin is the male and +the dorado the female. Some of these are six feet long, but not of +proportional bulk. In the water they appear excessively beautiful, +their skins shining as if streaked with burnished gold; but lose their +splendid appearance on being taken out of the water. Their flesh is +very sweet and well flavoured, so that the seamen always feast when +they can procure plenty of this fish. They saw also abundance of +sharks, many of which are ten feet long. Their flesh is hard, stringy, +and very disagreeably tasted; yet the seamen frequently hang them up +in the air for a day or two, and then eat them: Which compliment the +surviving sharks never fail to return when a seaman falls in their +way, either dead or alive, and seem to attend ships for that purpose. + + + +SECTION II. + +_Arrival in Brazil, with some Account of that Country._ + +Coming near the coast of Brazil, their design was to have anchored +at the island _Grande_, but finding they had passed that island, they +continued their course till off Porto, in lat. 24 deg. S. where they came +to anchor. Some of the ship's company of the commodore then got into +the boat in order to go shore, both for the purpose of procuring wood +and water and other refreshments, and in order to bury one of their +seamen who had died. Before they could get on shore, they descried a +body of Portuguese well armed moving along the coast, who seemed +to prevent them from landing, and beckoned the Dutch to keep off, +threatening to fire if they attempted to land: But, on shewing them +the dead body, they allowed them to land, and even shewed them a place +in which to inter their dead companion. Being desirous of procuring +some intelligence, the Dutch asked many questions about the country, +but could only get for answer, that Porto was an advanced port to St +Sebastian, not marked in the charts, and that they were inhabitants +of Rio Janeiro, which lay at the distance of eight miles.[1] The Dutch +endeavoured to persuade them to go on board the commodore, but they +refused, fearing they might be pirates, which frequently used to come +upon the coast, and, under pretence of getting fresh water, would land +and pillage any of the little towns near the sea. + +[Footnote 1: There must be a considerable mistake here in regard to +the latitude of Porto, said to be in 21 deg. S. as Rio Janeiro is in +lat. 22 deg. 54' S. and must therefore have been eighty leagues distant. +Perhaps the eight miles in the text, as the distance to Rio Janeiro, +ought to have been eighty leagues or Dutch miles.--E.] + +About six months before the arrival of Roggewein at this place, a +pirate had been there, and, while the crew were preparing to make a +descent, a French ship of force arrived, which sent her to the bottom +with one broadside. She sank in thirteen fathoms, and as she was +supposed to have seven millions on board,[2] they had sent for divers +from Portugal, in order to attempt recovering a part of her treasure. +However, by dint of entreaties and the strongest possible assurance of +safety, two of them were prevailed upon to go on board the commodore, +where they were very kindly treated, and had clothes given them, by +which they were induced to carry the squadron into a safe port, which +was most serviceable to men in their condition, almost worn out with +fatigues, and in a manner destroyed for want of water. + +[Footnote 2: This is a most inconclusive mode of expression, perhaps +meaning Dutch florins, and if so, about L636,363 sterling.--E.] + +The harbour of Porto affords good anchorage in from six to eight +fathoms. In entering it on the S.W. the main land is on the right, and +a large island on the left, all the coast appearing very high land, +consisting of mountains and intermediate vallies, overgrown with trees +and shrubs. Porto is in a pleasant situation, but at this time had +no inhabitants. They caught here both fish and tortoises of exquisite +flavour, and so very nourishing, that about forty of the people who +were ill of the scurvy, recovered very fast. Having remained there two +days, in which time they supplied themselves with wood and water, they +weighed anchor, and in six leagues sailing to the S.W. came into the +road of St Sebastian. Just when entering the mouth of the river a +violent storm arose, on which they had to drop their anchors, lest +they had been driven on the rocks, and to wait the return of the tide +in that situation. They entered the port next day, and came to anchor +just before the town, which they saluted, but without being answered, +either because the Portuguese guns were not in order, of because the +inhabitants were not pleased, with their arrival, suspecting them of +being pirates, though under the Dutch flag. In order to remove these +apprehensions, Roggewein wrote to the governor, informing him what +they were, and desiring to be furnished with cattle, vegetables, +fruits, and other refreshments for payment, also requesting the use +of a few huts on shore for the recovery of the sick men. The governor +made answer, that these things were not in his power, as he was +subordinate to the governor of Rio de Janeiro, to whom he should +dispatch an express that evening, and hoped the commodore would give +him time to receive the orders of his superior officer. But Roggewein +was by no means satisfied with this answer, giving the governor to +know, if he refused to deal with him by fair means and for ready money +as offered, be should be obliged to have recourse to force, though +much against his inclinations. Having learnt that there was a +Franciscan monastery in the town, Roggewein sent also to inform the +fathers of his arrival, accompanying his message by a present. + +It happened fortunately for the Dutch, that a native of Utrecht, one +Father Thomas, belonged to this monastery, who came immediately on +board, accompanied by several other monks. He was so much delighted +at the sight of his countrymen, that he declared he should now die +in peace, having earnestly wished for twenty-two years to enjoy the +satisfaction he was now gratified with. The commodore gave him a kind +welcome, and presented him with whatever was deemed useful for the +monastery. The prior, who was of the party on this occasion, begged +the commodore to have patience till the return of the express from +Rio de Janeiro, and promised to use his interest with the governor, to +induce him to furnish the demanded refreshments, so that they parted +well satisfied with each other. In the mean time, the Portuguese came +down to the coast in large bodies well armed, posting themselves in +such places as they judged the Dutch might attempt to put their men on +shore; and at the approach of a Dutch pinnace, thought proper to fire +at her, by which one of the Dutchmen was dangerously wounded in the +shoulder. The boat's crew returned the fire by a general discharge of +their fire-arms, by which two of the Portuguese were brought down, +and the rest made a precipitate retreat. The Dutch then landed +immediately, filling what water they had occasion for, and returned on +board. + +On the report of what had happened, which he deemed an act of +hostility, Roggewein made immediate dispositions for attacking the +town, ordering his smallest ship to go as near the place as possible, +while the Teinhoven was ordered to watch the coast, and the commodore +laid his own ship opposite the monastery, as if he had intended to +batter it down. All this was merely to frighten the Portuguese +into better behaviour, and it had the desired effect, as the +deputy-governor came soon after on board, and entered into a +treaty, granting every thing desired. He at the same time expressed +considerable doubts of being paid for what they might furnish, as +a French ship had been lately supplied with necessaries, and at its +departure the French captain threatened to burn the town about their +ears, if they insisted on payment according to agreement and his +promises on first coming in. The sick were now landed on the island, +and the whole of the ships companies were daily furnished by the +Portuguese with beef, mutton, fowls, vegetables, fruits, and every +thing else they wanted. The ships companies also had leave to go on +shore, and soon contracted acquaintance among the Portuguese, from +whom they obtained sugar, tobacco, brandy, and every thing else they +wished for, in exchange for European goods, although the governor had +strictly prohibited all commerce, under the strictest penalties. Thus, +in a very short time the Portuguese became so well satisfied of the +honesty and good intentions of the Dutch, that they brought back all +their rich effects, formerly carried out of town when the ships first +arrived. The Portuguese, however, complained loudly of the bad usage +they met with from the French, who came frequently to this place with +their ships, taking whatever they pleased by force, and plundering the +houses in which they were permitted to lodge the sick; owing to which +the Portuguese believed that all other Europeans would treat them in +the same manner. + +The town of St Sebastians is situated in lat. 24 deg. S. and long. 60 deg. +W.[3] being a place of moderate extent, only indifferently fortified +by an inclosure of palisades, with a few cannon for its defence. The +church however is a beautiful building, and the palace of the governor +is very magnificent; but the houses of the inhabitants are only such +as are commonly met with among the Spanish and Portuguese colonists in +America. The Franciscan monastery stands on the S. side of the town, +and accommodates about thirty monks very conveniently. The prior +shewed to the commodore and his officers a curious idol, which he said +had been worshipped by the ancient natives of the place. It was the +image of a creature half tiger half lion, about four feet high and a +foot and a half round. Its feet resembled the paws of a lion, and +the head was adorned with a double crown, in which were stuck twelve +Indian darts, one of which on each side was broken. On each shoulder +there was a large wing like that of a stork. In the inside was seen +the statue of a man, completely armed in the manner of the country, +having a quiver of arrows at his back, a bow in his left hand, and an +arrow in his right. The tail of this strange idol was very long, and +twisted three or four times round the body of the man. It had been +called _Nasil Lichma_, by its worshippers, and the prior said that it +was made of gold; but the author of this voyage suspected it was +only gilded. The monks had also a numerous collection of European and +American curiosities, which they exhibited at the same time. + +[Footnote 3: It is impossible to reconcile this longitude with any +of the first meridians mentioned in a former note, or indeed with any +known geographical principles. It is 45 deg. 30' W. from Greenwich. If +reckoned from the meridian of Teneriffe, said to be that used by the +Dutch, this would place it 21 deg. 10' too far west, as Teneriffe is 16 deg. +40' W. from Greenwich. This place, in an island of the same name, has +to be carefully distinguished from the city of St Sebastian, now more +commonly known by the name of Rio de Janeiro.--E.] + +The port, or river rather, of St Sebastian, is three or four leagues +in length, and about one league broad, having a very fine island on +the N.E. of about four miles round, and there are smaller islands on +all the other sides of this haven. The country of Brazil is very large +and rich, insomuch that the king of Portugal is said to draw as +great a revenue from hence, as the king of Spain from all his vast +possessions in America. Its capital is Bahia, or St Salvador, besides +which there are many other towns, as Siara, Olinda, Rio de Janeiro, St +Vincent, and others. The country was discovered in 1590; but even at +this day the Portuguese have not penetrated above eighty leagues +into the interior. The soil is good, and the country would doubtless +produce abundance of corn and wine for the use of its inhabitants; +but, from a principle of policy, the colonists are not permitted to +cultivate these productions, and are consequently supplied with them +from Portugal. It is the common opinion that the ancient inhabitants +were _anthropophagi_, or cannibals, and it is even said that human +flesh was sold in their markets, as commonly as beef and mutton, but +of this there is no authentic proof.[4] + +[Footnote 4: There is no doubt that at least some of the tribes +roasted and eat their prisoners, like the Caribs of the West Indies. +But certainly they had not arrived to that state of civilization as +to have markets; and beef and mutton were unknown in America, till +carried there from Europe.--E.] + +Such of the natives as were seen were large dark-complexioned men, +having thick lips, flat noses, and very white teeth. The Portuguese +are numerous in Brazil, both Creoles, and such as come from time to +time from Portugal, to repair their broken fortunes. A little time +before the arrival of Roggewein, the Portuguese had discovered a +diamond mine not far from St Sebastian, of which at that time they +were not in full possession, but were meditating an expedition against +the Indians, in order to become sole masters of so valuable a prize; +and with this view they invited the Dutch to join them, promising them +a share in the riches in the event of success. By these means, nine +of our soldiers were tempted to desert. I know not the success of this +expedition; but it is probable that it succeeded, as great quantities +of diamonds have since been imported from Brazil into Europe. They are +said to be found on the tops of mountains among a peculiar red earth +containing a great deal of gold; and, being washed down by the great +rains and torrents into the vallies, are there gathered in lavaderas +by negroes employed for the purpose. + +Brazil abounds with numerous sorts of beasts, birds, and fish, both +wild and tame. They have tigers that do a great deal of mischief, +also elephants in great abundance, the teeth of which are of great +value.[5] There is no country on earth where serpents, and other +venomous reptiles, are more frequent, or of larger size. So far as +the Portuguese power and colonization extends, the popish religion is +established; but vast numbers of the indigenous natives of the country +remain unsubdued, and continue their original idolatry, being of such +cruel and vindictive dispositions, that when a Christian falls into +their hands, the best thing that can happen to him is to have his +throat cut, as they are, for the most part, put to death by means +of cruel tortures. The air of the country, though excessively hot at +certain times of the year, is extremely wholesome, as we experienced +by our speedy recovery from the scurvy and other distempers. About +St Sebastian there are vast quantities of venomous musquetoes, which +sting to such a degree that we were all covered over with blisters. +Our pilot, having drank too freely of the country rum, and afterwards +fallen asleep in the open air, had his head, face, arms, and legs so +severely stung, that his life was in imminent danger, and he recovered +after a long time, not without much care. + +[Footnote 5: There are animals of the tyger kind in Brazil and +other parts of America, and the Jaguar, Owza, or Brazilian tyger, is +probably the one here meant. No elephants exist in America, and +their teeth, mentioned in the text, must have come from some of the +Portuguese African possessions.--E.] + +While here, the commodore kept up a very strict discipline over his +people; and some of his sailors being complained against as having +maltreated some Indian women, he caused them to be severely punished, +and would never afterwards allow them to go on shore. The Dutch and +Portuguese agreed extremely well, but the governor was far from being +pleased with his visitors, more especially because he had learnt from +some of the deserters that the object of the expedition was to make +discoveries in the south. For this reason he practised every art he +could devise to hinder and distress them, and furnished them with +provisions only from day to day, that they might not increase their +sea-stores. He also frequently talked of there being five or six +Portuguese men-of-war in Rio de Janeiro, in order to put the Dutch in +fear of being attacked, and actually sent for the only ship that +was there at the time, to come to St Sebastian. Roggewein perfectly +understood the meaning of all this, of which he took no notice, and +complied exactly with the terms of the agreement entered into with the +deputy governor, saving part of the fresh provisions daily and salting +them, cleaned and repaired his ship in succession, and took on board +tobacco, sugar, and every thing else he wanted, till in a condition +to continue the voyage. He then fully satisfied the governor for every +thing procured at this place, making payment in fire-arms, hats, silk +stockings, linen, stock-fish, and other European articles, and made +him a considerable present besides. In return, the governor sent +him some black cattle, and gave him a certificate of his honourable +behaviour. + + + +SECTION III. + +_Incidents during the Voyage from Brazil to Juan Fernandez, with a +Description of that Island._ + +Every thing being settled at St Sebastian, Roggewein set sail towards +the S.W. and falling in with a desert island about three leagues from +the coast, he set on shore the swabber who had attempted to murder the +cook, pursuant to his sentence, as formerly related. Leaving the coast +of Brazil, the commodore proposed to have visited an island called +Aukes Magdeland, after the name of its supposed discoverer, who +is said to have seen a light on that island about an hundred years +before, but did not go on shore. This island was said to be situated +in the latitude of 30 deg. S. and as being in the route of the navigation +towards the South Sea, and in a good climate, he proposed to have +settled a colony there for the service of such ships as might +afterwards be bound for the _Southern Indies_, the object he was now +in search of, where they might be supplied with wood, water, and other +refreshments. But after much pains, he could neither discover that +nor any other island in or near the latitude of 30 deg. S. He therefore +altered his coarse, steering for those called the _New Islands_ by the +Dutch, and the _Islands of St Lewis_, by a French privateer who first +discovered them. Keeping always within forty or fifty leagues of +the American coast, the squadron prosecuted its course very happily, +having always the advantage of the land and sea-breezes; whereas, if +it had kept farther from land, it would infallibly have fallen in with +the western trade-wind. + +On the 21st December, being in lat. 40 deg.. S. they were assailed by a +hurricane, attended with thunder and lightning, during which storm +the Tienhoven parted company, and did not rejoin till three months +afterwards. The extreme violence of this hurricane only lasted about +four hours, during which they every moment expected to have been +swallowed up by the waves, which ran mountain-high. These hurricanes +are extremely dangerous, and are far more frequent in the American +seas than in the East Indies. They usually happen at that season of +the year when the west monsoon reigns, which is from the 20th July to +the 15th October, for which reason ships usually remain then in port +till they think the danger is over. Yet as storms of this kind are not +exactly periodical, ships that trust to such calculations are often +caught, as there are some years in which there are no hurricanes, and +others in which they are more frequent and violent, and at unusual +periods. The ordinary, or at least the surest sign of an approaching +hurricane, is very fair weather, and so dead a calm that not even a +wrinkle is to be seen on the surface of the sea. A very dark cloud is +then seen to rise in the air, not larger than a man's hand, and in a +very little time the whole sky becomes overcast. The wind then begins +to blow from the west, and in a short space of time, whirls round the +compass, swelling the sea to a dreadful height; and as the wind blows +now on one side and then on the other, the contrary waves beat so +forcibly on the ships that they seldom escape foundering or shipwreck. +On first perceiving the before-mentioned small cloud, the best thing +a ship can do is to stand out to sea. It is remarkable that the +hurricanes are less frequent as we approach the higher latitudes in +either hemisphere, so that they are not to be feared beyond the lat. +of 55 deg. either S. or N. It is also remarked, that hurricanes rarely +happen in the middle of the wide ocean, but chiefly on the coasts of +such countries as abound with minerals, and off the mouths of large +rivers. Another surprising phenomenon at sea is what is called a +whirlwind water-spout, or syphon, which often carries up high into +the air whatever comes within the circle of its force, as fish, +grasshoppers, and other things, where they appear like a thick vapour +or cloud. The English fire at a water-spout or whirlwind, and often +succeed in stopping its progress; the circular motion ceasing, and all +that it had taken up falling immediately down, when the sea becomes +presently calm. + +On the cessation of the hurricane, the commodore and his remaining +consort, the African galley, continued their course to the S.S.W. till +in the height of the Straits of Magellan. They here fell in with an +island of near 200 leagues in circumference, and about 14 leagues from +the mainland of America, and seeing no smoke, nor any boat, or other +kind of embarkation, they concluded that it was uninhabited. The west +coast of this island was discovered by a French privateer, and named +the Island of St Lewis; but being seen afterwards by the Dutch, who +fancied its many capes to be distinct islands, they called it _New +Islands_. Considering that, if ever it should be inhabited, its +inhabitants would be the antipodes of the Dutch, Roggewein gave it the +name of _Belgia Australis_. It is in the lat. of 52 deg. S. and long. of +95 deg. W.[1] + +[Footnote 1: There is not the smallest doubt that the text refers +to the Falkland islands or Malouines, which consist of two principal +islands, called West and East Islands, besides a number of islets, +about 360 English miles from the continent of South America. The +centre of the west, or principal island, is in lat. 51 deg. 25' S. and +long. 60 deg. W. from Greenwich.--E.] + +The land appeared extremely beautiful and very fertile, being +chequered with mountains and vallies, all of which were cloathed with +fine straight trees. The verdure of the meadows, and freshness of the +woods, afforded a delightful prospect, insomuch that all the people +believed they should have found abundance of excellent fruits. But the +commodore would not delay by permitting them to land, being anxious +to get round Cape Horn, and chose therefore to defer a thorough +examination of this new country till his return from discovering the +southern continent and islands: This, however reasonable, proved vain +in the sequel, as he was forced to return with his squadron by the +East Indies; and this fine island, therefore, is likely to continue in +a great measure unknown. + +Quitting this island, they made for the Straits of Magellan, in order +to wait a wind favourable for their navigation, which took place in a +few days: for, if it had continued to blow from the west, they could +not possibly have got into the South Seas. They now resolved to +attempt the Straits of Le Maire, as infinitely more commodious than +the Strait of Magellan, in which latter the sea has but small depth, +and the meeting of the north and south currents occasion continual +rough seas. The bottom also of the Straits of Magellan is rocky, +affording no good anchorage; and the flows of winds from the mountains +on both sides are apt to endanger all ships that endeavour to pass +through these perilous straits. Having now a fair wind, they continued +their course to the south for the Straits of Le Maire, seeing on their +way abundance of whales and other large fish of that kind. Among the +rest, they were followed for a whole month by that kind of fish which +is called the _Sea Devil_ by the Dutch sailors, which they took the +utmost pains to catch, but to no purpose. It has a large head, a thick +short body, and a very long tail, like that which painters bestow on +the dragon. + +Arriving in the lat. of 55 deg. S. they soon after saw State Island, or +Staten-land, which forms one side of the Straits of Luttaire. The +fury of the waves, and the clashing of contending currents, gave such +terrible shocks to their vessels, that they expected every moment +their yards should have been broken, and their masts to come by the +board. They would gladly have come to anchor, especially on finding +the bottom to be good, but the weather and the sea were so rough that +they durst not. They passed through the straits, which are about ten +leagues long, by six over, with a swiftness not to be expressed, owing +to the force and rapidity of the current. After getting through, this +current, together with the westerly winds, carried them a great way +from the coast of America; and, that they might be sure to sail free +of Cape Horn, they sailed as high as the lat. of 62 deg. 30' S. For three +weeks together, they sustained the most dreadful gusts of a furious +west wind, accompanied with hail and snow, and the most piercing +frost. While enveloped in thick mists, they were apprehensive of being +driven by the extreme violence of the winds upon mountains of ice, +where they must inevitably have perished. + +Whenever the weather was in any degree clear or serene, they had +scarcely any night; for, being in the middle of January, 1722, the +summer was then in its height, and the days at their utmost length. + +These mountains of ice, of which they were so much afraid, are certain +proofs that the southern countries extend quite to the pole, as well +as those under the north; for, without question, these vast hills of +ice cannot be produced in the sea, nor formed by the common force of +cold. It must therefore he concluded, that they are occasioned by the +sharp piercing winds blowing out of the mouths of large rivers.[2] It +is no less certain, that the currents discerned in this ocean must all +proceed from the mouths of large rivers, which, rolling down from +a high continent, fall with such impetuosity into the sea, as to +preserve a great part of their force long after they have entered +it.[3] The great quantity of birds seen here was an additional proof +that land was not far off. It may be asked, whether this land be +inhabited or not? For my part I believe it is. It may be again asked, +How men should live in such a climate, in the lat. of 70 deg. S. where the +winter is so very long, the summer so short, and where they must be +involved for so great a portion of the year in perpetual night? To +this I answer, That such as dwell there come only in the fine season +in order to fish, and retire on the approach of winter, as is done by +many of the inhabitants of Russia and of Davis Straits, who, when they +have provided themselves with fish on the coasts of a frozen climate, +retire farther inland, and eat in their cabins during the winter +the fish they have caught in the summer. If the people who inhabit +Greenland and Davis Straits are to be believed, the country is +inhabited even as high as 70 deg. N. both winter and summer; and what is +practicable in one country, cannot justly be reputed impracticable +when supposed in another.[4] + +[Footnote 2: This is quite erroneous, as it is now well known that +the sea water freezes, when reduced to a sufficient degree of cold, +considerably lower than what is requisite for freezing fresh water. On +this occasion, the salt precipitates from the freezing water, and the +ice of sea water is sufficiently fresh for use when melted, if the +first running be thrown away, which often contains salt, either +adhering to the surface, or contained in cells.--E.] + +[Footnote 3: This is poor reasoning to support a preconceived theory +of a southern continent, and might easily have been answered by +themselves, as the prodigious current which set them through the +Straits of Le Maire with such rapidity, could not have originated from +any such cause. Currents are well known to be occasioned by the +tides, the diurnal revolution of the earth, and by prevailing winds, +influenced and directed by the bendings of coasts, the interposition +of islands, and the position of straits. No such currents could +possibly come from rivers in an austral land, locked up in ever-during +frost, should any such land exist.--E.] + +[Footnote 4: It might be asked, whence are these fishers to come? +Not surely from among the miserable inhabitants of Terra del Fuego. +A miserable hypothesis is thus often obstinately defended by wretched +arguments.--E.] + +Being driven 500 leagues from the continent by the contrary winds, the +commodore now believed that he was beyond Cape Horn to the westwards, +and steered therefore N.E. by N. in order to fall in with the coast of +Chili. On the 10th March, being in lat. 37 deg. 30' S. they discovered +the coast of Chili to their great joy, and anchored soon after on +the coast of the island of Mocha, which is three leagues from the +continent.[5] They were in hopes of finding on this island at least a +part of the refreshments of which they were in want, especially fresh +meat and vegetables, but were disappointed, by finding the island +entirely abandoned, all its inhabitants having removed to the main +land. They saw, however, in the island a multitude of horses and +birds, and found some dogs in two cabins near the shore. They also +discovered the wreck of a Spanish ship, from which they supposed the +dogs had got on shore. The horses were supposed to have been left here +to graze, and that the owners came at certain times from the main to +take them, as wanted. They here killed abundance of geese and ducks; +and finding the coast extremely rocky, and having no safe place of +anchorage, they resolved to put to sea. In a council of the officers, +it was determined to continue for some time longer on the coast of +Chili, in hopes of meeting with some port in which they could +safely anchor, in order to get some refreshments; but perceiving the +Spaniards to be every where on their guard, they steered W.N.W. +for the island of Juan Fernandez, which they reckoned to be at the +distance of ninety leagues in that direction. Although the coast of +Chili appears to be enormously high when seen from a distance, they +discovered, by sailing along shore, that it was not higher than the +coast of England, and that they had been deceived by the enormous +height of the inland mountains, the tops of which are hid in the +clouds, and cloathed in perpetual snow. + +[Footnote 5: Mocha is in lat. 36 deg. 20' S. and about 20 miles from the +coast of Chili.--E.] + +Having a favourable wind, they made way at a great rate, and got sight +of the island of Juan Fernandez, on the fourth day after leaving the +coast of Chili, but could not get to anchor that day in the road, +owing to its falling calm. Next day, when ready to go in, they were +astonished by seeing a ship riding at anchor, which they conjectured +to be either a Spanish ship of force or a French interloper, but at +last concluded to be a pirate. While consulting what to do, they saw +the boat belonging to the ship coming towards them, carrying a Spanish +flag, on which they began to prepare for an engagement, but were +astonished beyond measure, on its nearer approach, to find that it +belonged to their consort the Tienhoven, which they concluded had +foundered. Captain Bowman was himself on board the boat, and shewed +how well he had followed his instructions, as, by the commodore's +orders in case of separation, this was to be the first place of +rendezvous; whence, after cruizing six weeks, they were to repair +to lat. 28 deg. S. and cruize there a similar time: But, in case of not +meeting the commodore in either of these places, they were then to +open their sealed instructions, and follow them exactly. As soon as +Captain Bowman was on board the commodore, he made a signal agreed +on to his own ship, to acquaint them that the two ships were their +consorts, After this, the Eagle and African entered the harbour. + +When leisure permitted, Captain Bowman gave an account of the dangers +he had encountered in passing the Straits of Magellan: That he had met +with many storms on the coast of America, and that his ship was in a +very bad condition, having only arrived at Juan Fernandez the evening +before his consorts, both of which he believed had been lost in +the hurricane at the time of their separation. The three captains +afterwards dined together very cheerfully in the Tienhoven, where they +recounted and reciprocally commiserated their past misfortunes, and +rejoiced at their present happy meeting. As it still continued a dead +calm, they were unable to come to anchor at the place intended, but +they next day got close beside the Tienhoven, anchoring in forty +fathoms, within musket-shot of the shore. The sick were now landed, +and proper persons sent ashore along with them to construct cabins +or huts for their accommodation; and to search for provisions and +refreshments. + +According to the author of this voyage, the island of Juan Fernandez +is one of the finest and best situated in the world, having a +pleasant, wholesome, and temperate climate, fit to restore health to +the sick, and to give a constant flow of spirits to those who are +in health, which this author personally experienced, having here +recovered from a complication of disorders to perfect health. The +hills are covered with tall trees of various kinds, fit for all kinds +of uses; and the vallies are fertile, and able to produce all the +necessaries of life with very little cultivation. It abounds with +small streams and brooks, the banks of which are covered with +wholesome giants; and the waters which run down from the mountains, +though not in the least disagreeable to the taste, or injurious to +health, are so impregnated with some mineral particles, that they +never corrupt. On the east side of the bay in which the Dutch ships +anchored, there are three mountains, the middlemost of which resembles +the Table Mountains at the Cape of Good Hope. Behind these there +are many other mountains which rise to a prodigious height, and are +generally covered by very thick mist, especially in the mornings and +evenings, whence I am apt to suspect that these mountains may contain +rich mines. To give a just idea of the island in few words, it +resembles in all respects the country at the Cape of Good Hope. + +This author also mentions the sea-lions and seals of other writers, +and adds, that there are sea-cows also of enormous size, some weighing +near half a ton. He also mentions the abundance and excellence of the +fish, of which the Dutch cured many thousands during their short stay, +which proved extraordinarily good, and were of great service during +the rest of the voyage. He mentions goats also on the island in +abundance, but says the Dutch were unable to catch them, and at a loss +how to get at their bodies when shot; but they were frightened from +this sport by an unlucky accident which happened to the steward of one +of the ships, soon after their arrival, who, rambling one evening in +the mountains, fell suddenly from the top of a rock and was dashed to +pieces. They found here the remains of a wreck, supposed by them to +have been of a Spanish ship; but it was more probably the vestiges of +the Speedwell, lost a year before, and from which, by diving, some of +the sailors recovered several pieces of silver plate. + +Having attentively considered the advantageous situation and many +conveniences of this island, Roggewein conceived the design of +settling on it, as the most proper place that could be thought of +for ships bound, as he was, for the _Terra Australis_, or southern +islands, and was the more encouraged in this design by considering +the fertility of the island, which could not fail to afford sufficient +subsistence for six hundred families at least. He postponed this, +however, as also the settlement of _Belgia Australis_, or Falkland +islands, till his proposed return, owing to which they never were +settled. A settlement at the latter might have afforded a proper place +for ships to careen and refit at, and to procure wood and water, after +the long voyage from Europe, before entering the Straits of Magellan, +and Juan Fernandez would have afforded every convenience for repairing +any injuries that might have been sustained in passing through these +straits, or going round Cape Horn. Whatever nation may revive and +prosecute this plan, will certainly acquire in a few years as rich and +profitable a commerce as is now possessed by the Spaniards with Mexico +and Peru, or the Portuguese with Brazil.[6] + +[Footnote 6: Britain once tried a settlement at Falkland islands, and +had nearly gone to war with Spain on the occasion; and there can be no +doubt that Spain could never have submitted to the settlement of Juan +Fernandez by any other power. There is now a fort and small garrison +kept in that island.--E] + + + +SECTION IV. + +_Continuation of the Voyage from Juan Fernandez till the Shipwreck of +the African Galley._ + +On leaving Juan Fernandez, Roggewein proposed to visit that part of +the southern lands which was reported to have been discovered by Davis +in 1680.[1] As the Dutch author of this voyage is rather dark on this +subject, I shall here insert Mr Wafer's account of this discovery, as +it is very short. Wafer was a man of sense and knowledge, who sailed +along with Davis when this discovery was made. + +[Footnote 1: We have omitted a long, inconclusive, and uninteresting +discussion about the climate and productions of the proposed +discovery, the _Terra Australis_, which still remains _incognito_, or +rather has been clearly shewn to have no existence.--E.] + +"We steered from the Gallapagos island S. by E. 1/2 E. until we came +into the lat. of 27 deg. 20' S. when we fell in with a low sandy island, +and heard a great roaring noise right a-head of the ship, like that +of the sea beating on the shore. It being some hours before day, and +fearing to fall foul of the shore, the ship put about, and plied off +and on till next morning, and then stood in for the land, which +proved to be a small flat island, not surrounded by any rocks. To the +westwards, about twelve leagues by estimation, we saw a range of high +land which we took to be islands, as there were several partitions +in the prospect, and this land seemed to extend fourteen or sixteen +leagues. There came great flocks of fowls from that direction; and I +and more of the men would have made this land and gone on shore there, +but the captain would not consent. The small island bears 500 leagues +from Copaipo almost due W. and from the Gallapagos 600 leagues."[2] + +[Footnote 2: There can be no doubt that the small low flat island was +Easter island, in lat. 27 deg. 20' S. long. 110 deg. 10' W. Its distance from +Copaipo, almost due W. is almost exactly 40 deg. or 800 marine leagues. +The range of high land seen to the westwards, could be nothing but a +fog bank, so that Roggewein set out from Juan Fernandez in search of a +nonentity.--E.] + +In prosecuting his voyage to the westwards, the first land seen by +Roggewein was the lesser island of Juan Fernandez, otherwise called +Massa-fuero, about ninety-five English miles direct west. This +appeared lower and less fertile from a distance, but they had not an +opportunity of landing. Having the benefit of a S.E. trade-wind, they +soon arrived in lat. 28 deg. S. and the longitude of 251 deg. E. where they +expected to have fallen in with the land seen by Davis, but no such +land was to be found. Continuing their voyage to the westwards, and +attended by a vast quantity of birds, they arrived on the coast of a +small island about sixteen leagues in extent, which they fell in with +on the 14th April, 1722, being Easter-day, and called it therefore +_Pascha_, or _Easter_ Island. + +The African galley being the smallest ship, was sent in first to +examine this new discovery, and reported that it seemed to be very +fertile and well peopled, as abundance of smoke was to be seen in all +parts of the island. Next day, while looking out for a port, and when +about two miles from the shore, an Indian came off to the ships in a +canoe, who came readily on board and was well received. Being naked, +he was first presented with a piece of cloth to cover him, and they +gave him afterwards pieces of coral, beads, and other toys, all of +which he hung about his neck, together with a dried fish. His body was +painted all over with a variety of figures, through which the +natural colour of his skin appeared to be dark brown. His ears were +excessively large and long, hanging down to his shoulders, occasioned +doubtless by wearing large heavy ear-rings; a thing also practised +by the natives of Malabar. He was tall, well-made, robust and of a +pleasing countenance, and brisk and active in his manners, appearing +to be very merry by his gestures and way of speaking. They gave him +victuals, of which he eat heartily, but could not be prevailed on to +use a knife and fork; and when offered a glass of wine threw it away +to their great surprise, afraid of being poisoned, or offended by +the smell of strong liquor, to which he was unaccustomed. He was then +dressed from head to foot, and had a hat put on his head, with which +he did not seem at all pleased, but cut a very awkward figure, and +seemed uneasy. The music was then ordered to play, with which he +seemed much pleased, and when taken by the hand would leap and dance. +Finding it impossible to bring the ships to anchor that day, they +sent off the Indian, allowing him to keep all he had got in order to +encourage the rest to come on board. But, what was really surprising, +he had no mind to go away, and looked at the Dutch with regret, held +up his hands towards his native island, and cried in a loud voice +several times _Odorega!_ making appear by signs that he would much +rather have staid, and they had much ado to get him into his canoe. +They afterwards imagined he called upon his gods, as they saw +abundance of idols erected on the coast when they landed.[3] + +[Footnote 3: It will be afterwards seen in the modern +circumnavigations, that there are several gigantic statues, having +a distant resemblance to the human figure, on this island, which are +perhaps alluded to in the text.--E.] + + +Next morning at day-break, the ships entered a cove or bay on the S.E. +side of the island, when _many thousands_[4] of the inhabitants came +down to meet them, bringing with them vast quantities of fowls and +roots; and many of them brought these provisions on board, while +the rest ran backwards and forwards on the shore, like so many wild +beasts. As the ships drew near, the islanders crowded down to the +shore to get a better view of them, and at the same time lighted +fires, and made offerings to their idols, probably to implore their +protection against the strangers. All that day the Dutch spent in +getting into the bay and mooring their ships. Next morning very early, +the islanders were observed prostrating themselves before their idols +towards the rising sun, and making burnt offerings. While preparations +were making for landing, the friendly native who had been before on +board came a second time, accompanied by many others, who had their +canoes loaded with living fowls and roots cooked after their manner, +as if to make themselves welcome. Among this troop of islanders there +was one man perfectly white, having round pendents in his ears as big +as a man's fist. He had a grave decent air, and was supposed to be a +priest. By some accident, one of the islanders was shot dead in his +canoe by a musket, which threw the whole into prodigious confusion, +most of them leaping into the sea in order to get the sooner ashore; +while the rest who remained in their canoes paddled away with all +their might. + +[Footnote 4: This surely is a prodigious exaggeration, as the island +is utterly incapable to have supported any considerable number of +inhabitants, and there is not any other within 1500 miles.--E.] + +The Dutch presently followed, and made a descent with 150 soldiers and +seamen, at the head of whom was Commodore Roggewein, accompanied by +the author of the voyage, who commanded the soldiers. The islanders +crowded so close upon them while landing, that they thought it +necessary to make their way by force, especially as some of the +natives were so bold as to lay hold of their arms; and the Dutch +accordingly fired, when a great number of the islanders were slain, +among whom was the friendly native who had been twice aboard ship. +This frightened and dispersed them; yet in a few minutes they rallied +again, but did not come quite so near the strangers as before, keeping +at the distance of about ten yards, as if they supposed that +were sufficient to ensure their safety from the muskets. Their +consternation was however very great, and they howled and lamented +dismally. After all, as if to employ every possible means to mollify +their invaders, the men, women, and children presented themselves in +the most humble postures, carrying branches of palm in token of peace +and submission, bringing plenty of provisions of all kinds, and even +pointing to their women, giving the Dutch to understand by signs that +these were entirely at their disposal, and that they might carry as +many of them on board ship as they thought proper. Softened by these +tokens of submission, the Dutch did them no farther harm, but +made them presents of coral beads and small looking-glasses, and +distributed among them sixty yards of painted cloth. + +The natives now brought at once to the Dutch about 500 live fowls, +every way the same with the ordinary poultry of Europe, together with +a great quantity of red and white roots and potatoes, which these +islanders use instead of bread. They brought also several hundred +sugar-canes, and a great quantity of _pisans_, which are a sort of +figs as large as gourds covered by a green rind, the pulp of which is +as sweet as honey. The leaves of the tree on which these figs grow +are six or eight feet long and three broad, and there are sometimes an +hundred of these _pisans_ on one bough. The Dutch saw no quadrupeds of +any kind, yet supposed there might be cattle and other beasts in the +interior, as on shewing some hogs to the islanders, they expressed by +signs that they had seen such animals before. They used pots to dress +their meat in; and it appeared that every family or tribe among +them dwelt in a separate village. The huts or cabins composing these +villages were from forty to sixty feet long, by six or eight feet +broad, made of upright poles, having the interstices filled up with +loam or fat earth, and covered at top with palm leaves. They drew most +of their subsistence from the earth by cultivation, the land being +portioned out into small plantations very neatly divided and staked +out. While the Dutch were there, almost all the fruits and roots were +in full maturity, and the island seemed to abound in good things. In +their houses there were not many moveables, and those they had were +of no value, except some red and white quilts or cloths, which served +them in the day for mantles, and at night for coverlets. The stuff of +which these were composed felt as soft as silk, and was probably of +their own manufacture. + +The natives of this island were in general a brisk, slender, active, +well-made people, very swift of foot, and seemed of sweet tempers, and +modest dispositions, but timorous and faint-hearted; for whenever they +brought fowls or other provisions to the Dutch, they threw themselves +on their knees, and immediately on delivering their presents retired +in all haste. They were mostly as brown-complexioned as Spaniards, +some among them being almost black, while others were white, and +others again had their skins entirely red, as if sun-burnt. Their ears +hung down to their shoulders, and some had large white bales hanging +to them, which they seemed to consider as a great ornament. Their +bodies were painted all over with the figures of birds and other +animals, on some much better executed than on others.[5] All their +women had artificial bloom on their cheeks, but of a much deeper +crimson than is known in Europe, and the Dutch could not discover what +this colour was composed of. They wore little hats on their heads +made of straw or reeds, and had no other covering than the quilts or +mantles formerly mentioned.[6] The women were by no means extremely +modest, for they invited the Dutchmen into their houses by signs, +and when they sat by them would throw off their mantles, as inviting +familiarity. It is very singular of these islanders, that the Dutch +saw no appearance whatever of arms among them; but, when attacked, +they fled for refuge to their idols, numbers of which were erected +all along the coast. These idols were all of stone, representing +the figures of men with great ears, their heads covered by the +representations of crowns; and all so nicely proportioned, and +so highly finished, that the Dutch were much amazed. Many of the +inhabitants seemed to be more frequent and more zealous worshippers +of these images than the rest, which induced the Dutch to believe that +these were priests; and that the more especially, as their heads were +close shaven, on which they wore caps of black and white feathers,[7] +and they had large white balls hanging at their ears. + +[Footnote 5: _Tatooed_ in all probability, a practice so common +through the inhabitants of Polynesia, which will be minutely described +in an after division of this collection. It may suffice to say at +present, that this decoration is formed by pricking the skin with +sharp instruments till it just bleeds, and afterwards rubbing +some coloured powders into the punctures, which leave indelible +stains.--E.] + +[Footnote 6: It is left ambiguous whether these straw hats and mantles +were worn by both sexes, or confined exclusively to the women.--E.] + +[Footnote 7: A dissertation is here omitted on a fancied migration +of storks annually from Europe to this island and others in the +South-sea, as high as lat. 40 deg. and 50 deg. S. merely because the Dutch +thought the feathers in these caps resembled those of storks.--E.] + +No appearance of government or subordination was observed among these +islanders, and consequently no prince or chief having dominion over +the rest. The old people wore bonnets made of feathers resembling +the down of ostriches, and had sticks in their hands. In some of the +houses, the father of the family was observed to have rule over all +its inhabitants, and was obeyed with the greatest readiness. In the +opinion of the Dutch author of this voyage, this island might be +settled to great advantage, as the air is very wholesome and the soil +rich; being proper for producing corn in the low lands, and its higher +grounds might be converted into vineyards. On the evening, after +returning on board, Roggewein proposed to land again next morning with +a force sufficient to make a strict survey of the whole island: But +during the night there arose so strong a west wind as drove them from +their anchors, and they were forced to put to sea, to avoid being +shipwrecked. After this misfortune, they cruized for some time in the +same latitude, seeking in vain for the land discovered by Davis, on +which Roggewein determined to bear away for the _Bad Sea of Schouten_, +keeping always a west course, in hopes of discovering some new land. +In this coarse, they soon found themselves in the height of the +island discovered by Schonten in 1615, to which he gave the name of +_Bad-water_, because all its waters were brackish; but, by changing +their course, they ran 300 leagues out of their way, and at least 150 +leagues farther than Schonten. + +In this wide sea, Roggewein sailed upwards of 800 leagues without +seeing land, though he frequently varied his course. At length, when +in lat. 15 deg. 30' S. they discovered a very low island, the coast of +which was covered with a deep yellow-coloured sand, having in +the middle of the island a kind of pond, lake, or lagoon. All the +principal officers were of opinion that this was the island to which +Schonten gave the name of _Dog_ island, and did not therefore think +it necessary to go on shore for more particular examination.[8] The +author of this voyage was of a different opinion, conceiving it a new +discovery, and calling it _Carlshoff_,[9] which he says is in lat. 15 deg. +45' S. and long. 280 deg.. He describes it as a low flat island of about +three leagues in extent, having a lake in the middle. + +[Footnote 8: In modern geography Dog island is placed in lat. 15 deg. 10' +S. long. 137 deg. 45' W. from Greenwich.--E.] + +[Footnote 9: Carlshoff is laid down by Arrowsmith in lat. 15 deg. 45' S. +as in the text, and long. 145 deg. 28' W. The first meridian used for the +longitude in the text is quite inexplicable, and was probably assumed +on very erroneous computation. It is 190 marine leagues due west from +Dog island.--E.] + +Leaving this island, the wind came about to the S.W. a sign that they +were near some coast, which had changed the current of the air; and +by this alteration of wind they were driven among some small islands, +where they found themselves considerably embarrassed. In this +situation the African galley led the way for the rest, as sailing best +and drawing least water; but she soon found herself in such danger, +that they fired repeated guns of distress, on which the other two +ships hastened to her assistance, when they found her stuck so fast +between two rocks that it was impossible to get her of? and were only +able to save her people. Roused by the noise of the signal guns, the +natives of the surrounding islands kindled many fires on their hills, +and flocked in crowds to the coasts; and the Dutch; not knowing what +might be their designs in the darkness of the night and in the midst +of their own confusion, fired upon them without ceremony, that they +might have as few dangers as possible to deal with at one time. In the +morning as soon as it was light, they had a clear view of the danger +all the ships had been in during the darkness of the past night, +finding themselves environed on all sides by four islands, with a +continued chain of steep rocks, and so close together that they could +hardly discern the channel by which they had got in, so that they had +much reason to be thankful for having been so wonderfully preserved +in the midst of so much danger. On this occasion only one seaman was +lost, who belonged to the Tienhoven, and who, in his eagerness to go +to succour his friends, dropt overboard and was drowned. + +The danger was by no means over as soon as discovered, as it cost +the Dutch no less than five days to extricate themselves from their +perilous situation, during which time the commodore was separated from +the Tienhoven, and remained ignorant of the fate of the African. At +length, the boat of the Tienhoven, having sailed all round the group +of islands, brought information that the crew of the African had got +safe on shore; and that the natives, after being once fired on, had +retired into the interior in all haste. Roggewein now sent his boat to +bring off all those who had got on shore; and on mustering the crew of +the African on board the Eagle, it appeared that a quarter-master and +four seamen were missing. On enquiry, it was found that these men had +chosen to remain on the island, as they had mutinied against their +officers on getting ashore, because they had interposed to prevent +them from killing each other with their knives, and Captain Rosenthall +had threatened to have them all put to death when he got them aboard +the commodore, wherefore they had fled to avoid punishment. Being +unwilling to lose them, the commodore sent the author of this +narrative with a detachment of soldiers to bring them away, but he was +unable to succeed. + +These islands are situated between the latitudes of 15 deg. and 16 deg. S. +about twelve leagues west from Carlshoff,[10] each of them appearing +to be four or five leagues in compass. That on which the African +was shipwrecked was named _Mischievous Island_, the two next it +the _Brothers_, and the fourth the _Sister_ All four islands were +beautifully verdant, and abounded in fine tall trees, especially +cocoas; and the crews found material benefit while here by refreshing +themselves on the vegetable productions of these islands, by which +many of them were surprisingly recovered from the scurvy. The Dutch +found here vast quantities of muscles, cockles, mother-of-pearls, +and pearl-oysters, which gave reason to expect that a valuable pearl +fishery might have been established here. These islands are extremely +low, so that some parts of them must be frequently overflowed; but the +inhabitants have plenty of stout canoes, as also stout barks provided +with sails and cables; and the Dutch found several pieces of rope on +the shore, that seemed made of hemp. The natives were of extraordinary +size, all their bodies being painted [or _tatooed_] with many colours, +and had mostly long black hair, though some had brown hair even +inclined towards red. They were armed with pikes or lances eighteen or +twenty feet long, and kept in bodies of fifty or an hundred together, +endeavouring to entice the Dutch to follow them into the interior, as +if to draw them into an ambuscade, on purpose to be revenged for the +loss they had sustained by the firing on the night of the shipwreck. + +[Footnote 10: Pernicious islands, almost certainly the Mischievous +islands of the text, are placed in lat. 16 deg. 5' S. and long. 148 deg. 50' +W. about 20 leagues W. by S. from Carlshoff by Arrowsmith.--E.] + + + +SECTION V. + +_Continuation of the Voyage after the Loss of the African, to the +Arrival of Roggewein at New Britain._ + +The next morning after leaving Mischievous island, they saw a new +island eight leagues to the west, to which they gave the name of +_Aurora_ island, because observed first at break of day. At this time +the Tienhoven was so near, that if the sun had risen half an hour +later, she must have shared the same fate with the African, as she was +within cannon-shot of the shore when the danger was perceived, and she +then tacked and escaped with considerable difficulty. The fright which +this occasioned produced a mutiny, in which all the seamen insisted +with the commodore either to return immediately, or to give them +security for payment of their wages, in case they should be so +unfortunate as to suffer shipwreck. This request seemed just and +reasonable, being daily exposed to excessive fatigue in these stormy +and unknown seas, and at the same time ran the hazard of losing all +the reward of their labours, as it is the custom in Holland that the +seamen lose their wages if the ship is lost in which they sail. +The commodore listened to their complaints with much humanity, and +immediately gave them assurance upon oath, that they should have their +wages to the uttermost farthing, and kept his promise with the utmost +exactness; for, though the African was lost before, and both the other +ships were condemned at Batavia, yet every one of their respective +crews received their full wages on their arrival at Amsterdam. + +The island of _Aurora_ was about four leagues in extent, the whole +being covered with delightful verdure, and adorned with lofty trees +interspersed with smaller wood. But, as the coast was found to be all +foul and rocky, they left this island also without landing. Towards +evening of the same day, they had sight of another island, to which +therefore they gave the name of _Vesper_.[1] This was about twelve +leagues in circuit, all low land, yet verdant and containing abundance +of trees of various sorts. Continuing their course to the west in +about the latitude of 15 deg. S. they next morning discovered another +country; and, as it was covered with smoke, they concluded it +was inhabited, and made there all sail to come to it, in hopes of +procuring refreshments. On approaching nearer, some of the inhabitants +were seen diverting themselves off the coast in their canoes. They +also perceived by degrees, that what they had at first supposed to +be one country or large island, was in reality abundance of islands +standing close together, among which they had now entered so far, that +they found it difficult to get out again. In this situation, a man was +sent to the mast-head to look out for a passage, and as the weather +was quite serene, they had the good fortune to get out once more into +the open sea without injury; although in passing by several steep +ranges of rocks, they had reason to consider this as a great +deliverance. There were six of these islands, exceedingly beautiful +and pleasant in appearance, which altogether could not be less than +thirty leagues in circumference. They were about twenty-five +leagues west from Mischievous island, and the Dutch called them the +Labyrinth,[2] having difficultly got clear of them by numerous tacks. + +[Footnote 1: Aurora and Vesper are called in modern geography +Roggewein's or Palliser's Islands, in lat. 15 deg. 32' S, about 10 leagues +N. by W. of Pernicious Islands.--E.] + +[Footnote 2: Perhaps Prince of Wales' islands are here alluded to, in +lat. 15 deg. 50' S. and long. 148 deg. 5' W. about 40 marine leagues W.N.W. +from Pernicious islands.--E.] + +As it was very dangerous to anchor on the coast, and as none of the +inhabitants came off in their canoes, the Dutch did not think fit to +make any stay, but continued still a western course, and in a few days +discovered another island, which at a distance appeared very high +and beautiful; but, on a nearer approach they found no ground for +anchorage, and the coast appeared so rocky that they were afraid to +venture near. Each ship therefore embarked twenty-five men in their +boats, in order to make a descent. The natives no sooner perceived +their design than they came down in crowds to the coast to oppose +their landing, being armed with long spears, which they soon shewed +they knew how to use to the best advantage. When the boats drew near, +the shore was found to be so steep and rocky, that the boats could not +come to land, on which most of the sailors went into the water with +their arms in their hands, having some baubles fit for presents to the +natives tied upon their heads; while those who remained in the boats +kept up a continual fire to clear the shore. This expedient succeeded, +and the seamen got ashore without much resistance from the natives; +who were frightened by the fire of the musquetry, and retired up the +mountains, but came down again as soon as the Dutch ceased firing. + +On the return of the islanders, the Dutch who had landed shewed them +small mirrors, beads, and other baubles, and the people came up to +them without fear, took their presents, and suffered them to search +where they pleased for herbs and sallading for the sick. They found +abundance of these, and soon filled twelve sacks, six for the Eagle +and six for the Tienhoven, the inhabitants even assisting them and +shewing them the best sorts. They carried their cargo of greens +immediately on board, which were more acceptable to the sick than if +they had brought them as much gold and silver. Next morning a larger +body of men were ordered on shore, both on purpose to gather herbs and +to examine the island. The first thing they did was to make a present +to the king or chief of a considerable assortment of trinkets, which +he received with an air of indifference and disdain, which did not +promise much good in their future intercourse, yet sent the Dutch +a considerable quantity of cocoa nuts in return, which were very +agreeable to them in their present circumstances. The chief was +distinguished from the ordinary inhabitants by wearing various +ornaments of pearls, as they judged to the value of 600 florins, or +L. 55 sterling. The women of the island seemed to admire the white men +much, and almost stifled them with caresses: But this was all employed +to lull the Dutch into security, that the plot contrived by the men +for their destruction might the more readily succeed. + +When the Dutch had filled twenty sacks with greens, they advanced +farther into the country, till they came to the top of some steep +rocks, which hung over a large and deep valley, the natives going both +before and behind them, quite unsuspected of any evil intention. +At length, thinking they had the Dutch at an advantage, the natives +suddenly quitted them, and soon after prodigious numbers came pouring +out from caves and holes in the rocks, and surrounded the Dutch on all +sides, while they immediately formed in close order for defence. The +chief or king then made a signal for the Dutch to keep off, but as +they continued to advance, the chief made a signal of battle, which +was instantly followed by a prodigious shower of stones. The Dutch in +return made a general discharge of their fire arms, which did great +execution, and the chief was among the first who fell. Yet the +islanders continued to throw stones with great fury, so that most of +the Dutch were soon wounded and almost disabled, on which they retired +under shelter of a rock, whence they fired with such success that +great numbers of the islanders were slain. They still obstinately +maintained their ground, and the Dutch were at last forced to retreat, +having some of their number killed, and a great many wounded, most of +whom died not long after, in consequence of their scorbutical habit +of body, in spite of every care. As soon as they could disengage +themselves from the enemy, the Dutch retired on board ship, carrying +with them the sacks of greens which they had gathered. This rencounter +had so great an effect on the Dutch, that when it was proposed to +land again, not a man could be prevailed upon to make the dangerous +attempt. + +They had given to this island, before this unfortunate affair, the +name of the _Island of Recreation_,[3] which is in lat. 16 deg. S. and +long. 285 deg.. It is about twelve leagues in compass, with a fertile +soil, producing a great number of trees, especially cocoa nuts, palms, +and iron-wood. The Dutch conceived that there might be rich mines +in the heart of the country, and other valuable things, but were not +allowed to search. The natives were of middle size, but robust +and active, having long black shining hair, which they anoint with +cocoa-nut oil, a practice very common among the Indians. They were +painted all over, like the inhabitants of Easter island; the men +wearing a kind of net-work round their middles, which they stick +up between their legs. The women were entirely covered by a kind of +mantles of their own manufacture, the stuff of which to the sight and +touch resembled silk;[4] and they wear long strings of pearls about +their necks and wrists. + +[Footnote 3: By Arrowsmith, this island is placed in lat. 16 deg. 32' S. +and long. 148 deg. 50' W. The longitude in the text is inexplicable on any +supposition.--E.] + +[Footnote 4: The cloth of the South-sea islands is a substance in +a great measure resembling paper, composed of the inner bark of the +paper mulberry, the preparation of which will be afterwards detailed +in the narratives of the modern circumnavigators--E.] + +Roggewein thought proper to sail from this island without farther loss +of time, and before his departure held a council of his officers, +in which he stated his instructions, which were,--If no discovery of +importance could be made in the latitude and longitude in which they +then were, that he should return home. Some of the council were much +astonished at this, and remonstrated, That having already gone so +far, and met with such encouragement to hope for discoveries of great +importance, they thought it would betray a great want of spirit not +to proceed. To this Roggewein answered, That they had now been out ten +months, having still a long voyage to make to the East Indies; that +provisions began to grow scarce, and, above all, that the crews were +already so much diminished in number, and the survivors in so weak a +condition, that if twenty more were to die or fall sick, there would +not be a sufficient number remaining to navigate both ships. The true +reason, however, in the opinion of the author of this voyage, was the +anxiety to get to the East Indies before the change of the monsoon, +in which case they must have remained six months longer in these +seas. Some of the officers opposed this motion to the last, earnestly +entreating the commodore that he would rather winter at the land +mentioned by Ferdinand de Quiros, from which they could not now be +more than 150 leagues distant. They insisted that it was wrong to +think of going to the East Indies, that being directly contrary to +the design of their instructions: And that by continuing in the same +western course, they could not fail to fall in with some island, where +they might land and procure refreshments, remaining on shore till +all their sick men were recovered, and erecting a fort to defend +themselves against the natives. If this were complied with, they said +they might afterwards return home by an eastern coarse; and, by taking +time, might effectually complete the discoveries on which they were +sent. + +These reasons were listened to with patience and civility, but had +not the weight they deserved; and a resolution was formed to continue +their coarse for New Britain and New Guinea, and thence to the East +Indies, by way of the Moluccas, being in hopes to procure there a +supply of provisions and necessaries, together with a reinforcement +of seamen, in case they should then be too weak for navigating their +ships home to Europe. In consequence of this resolution, an end was +put to all hope of visiting the land of Quiros, which the best seamen +on board thought might have been easily discovered, called by him +and Torres the _Islands of Solomon_, and reported to be beautiful +and fertile, and abounding in gold, silver, precious stones, and +spices.[5] + +[Footnote 5: We have here omitted a long, uninteresting, and +inconclusive disquisition on the supposed Terra Australis, as +altogether founded on supposition and error.--E.] + +Leaving the island of _Recreation_, Roggewein steered a coarse towards +the N.W. pursuant to the resolution of the council, in order to get +into the latitude of New Britain. On the third day, in lat. 12 deg. S. +and long. 29 deg. they discovered several islands which appeared very +beautiful at a distance, and, on a nearer approach, were seen to be +well planted with all sorts of trees, and produced herbs, corn, +and roots in great plenty, to which they gave the name of _Bowman's +Islands_, after the captain of the Tienhoven, by whom they were first +seen.[6] As soon as they were seen by the natives, they came off in +their canoes to the ships, bringing fish, cocoa-nuts, Indian figs, +and other refreshments, in return for which the Dutch gave them small +mirrors, strings of beads, and other trifles. These islands were very +fully peopled, as many thousands of men and women came down to the +shore to view the ships, most of the men being armed with bows and +arrows. Among the rest, they saw a majestic personage, who, from the +peculiar dress he wore, and the honours that were paid him, evidently +appeared to be chief or king of these islanders. This person soon +afterwards went into a canoe, accompanied by a fair young woman, who +sat close by his side, and his canoe was immediately surrounded by a +vast number of others, which seemed intended for his guard. + +[Footnote 6: These appear to have been the most northerly of the +Society islands, about 70 marine leagues, or 3-1/2 degrees W. by N. +from Recreation island, in lat. 15 deg. 20' S. long. 152 deg. W.] + +All the inhabitants of these islands were white, differing only from +Europeans in being sun-burnt, and they seemed a very harmless good +sort of people, of brisk and lively dispositions, behaving to each +other with much civility, and shewing no appearance of wildness or +savageness in their behaviour. Their bodies were not painted like +those of the islanders they had seen hitherto, but very handsomely +cloathed from the waist downwards, with a sort of silk fringes very +neatly arranged. On their heads they wore hats of a very neat-looking +stuff, very large and wide spreading, in order to keep off the sun, +and their necks were adorned with collars or garlands of beautiful +odoriferous flowers. The islands appeared quite charming, being +agreeably diversified with beautiful hills and intermediate vallies. +Each family or tribe appeared to have its separate district, and +to compose a separate government or community, all the land being +regularly laid out into regular and fair plantations, as had formerly +been observed at _Pasch_, or _Easter_ island. In all respects, the +natives were the most civilized and best disposed people they had seen +in the South Seas. Instead of shewing any terror or apprehension at +the arrival of the Dutch, the natives expressed the utmost joy and +satisfaction, treating them with the utmost kindness and respect, and +manifested the most sincere and deep concern at their departure. Many +of the Dutch also felt a similar regret, and would have been well +pleased to have made a longer stay in this delightful and plenteous +country, among so kind a people, as, by the help of the excellent +provisions in great abundance with which these good islands furnished +them, all their sick people would have been perfectly recovered in +a month. These islands had also one convenience greatly superior to +those they had met with before, as there was good anchorage almost +every where along their coasts, where they rode in the utmost safety, +in from fifteen to twenty fathoms. + +So many advantageous circumstances ought to have induced Roggewein +and his officers to have remained here longer; but their heads were +so full of proceeding for the East Indies, that they were fearful of +missing the favourable monsoon, while they afterwards discovered, to +their cost, that they were two months too early, instead of two months +too late. By this indiscreet step, they sacrificed the health and +strength of their crew to such a degree, that they were at length +hardly able to navigate their ships, and at one time were on the +point of burning one of their ships, that they might be better able to +manage the other: All of which inconveniences might have been avoided, +had they embraced this opportunity afforded them by Divine Providence, +and been contented to remain in a place of safety, plenty, and +pleasure, till their sick were recovered, instead of wilfully seeking +new dangers which they were so little able to encounter. + +Leaving Bowman's islands, and continuing their course towards the N.W. +they came next morning in sight of two islands, which they took to +be _Coccos_ and _Traitor's_ islands,[7] so called by Schouten, who +discovered them. The island of Coccos, at a distance, for Roggewein +would not stop to examine it, seemed very high land, and about eight +leagues in circuit. The other seemed much lower, composed of a red +soil, and destitute of trees. They soon after saw two other islands +of large extent, one of which they named _Tienhoven_,[8] and the other +_Groninguen_; which last many of their officers were of opinion was +no island, but the _great southern continent_ they were sent out to +discover. The island of _Tienhoven_ appeared a rich and beautiful +country, moderately high, its meadows or low lands, by the sea, +exceedingly green, and the interior well provided with trees. They +coasted along this island for a whole day without reaching its +extremity, yet noticed that it extended semi-circularly towards the +island of Groninguen, so that those which they took for islands might +be contiguous lands, and both of them parts of the _Terra Australis +incognita_. + +[Footnote 7: There must be here an enormous error in the text; Coccos +and Traitor's islands are almost directly west from Recreation +island, and the northermost of the Society islands, supposed to be the +Bowman's islands of the text, and not less than 23 deg.10' farther west +than these last, or 463 marine leagues, which could not well be run in +less than a week or ten days.--E.] + +[Footnote 8: These were probably the _Fee-jee_, or Bligh's islands, in +lat. 17 deg. 20' S. long. 181 deg. 30' W. but the narrative is too +incomplete to ascertain this and many other points with any tolerable +certainty.--E.] + +A great part of the company were for anchoring on this coast, and +making a descent, but the officers were so intent on proceeding +for India, that they alleged it might be very dangerous to attempt +landing, lest any of the men might be cut off, and they should not +have enough left to carry on the ships. They continued in their +course, therefore, not doubting that they should soon see the coasts +of New Britain or New Guinea: But, after sailing many days without +seeing any land at all, they began to see the vanity of these +calculations, and could not forbear murmuring at their effects, as +the scurvy began to cut off three, four, or five of their best hands +daily. At this time nothing was to be seen but sick people, struggling +with inexpressible pains, or dead carcasses just relieved from their +intolerable distress. From these there arose so abominable a stench, +that even those who were yet sound often fainted away, unable to +endure it. Cries and groans were incessantly heard in all parts of the +ships, and the sight of the poor diseased wretches who were still able +to crawl about, excited horror and compassion. Some were reduced to +such mere skeletons that their skins seemed to cleave to their bones, +and these had this consolation, that they gradually consumed away +without pain. Others were swelled out to monstrous sizes, and were so +tormented with excruciating pain, as to drive them to furious madness. +Some were worn away by the dysentery, and others were racked with +excruciating rheumatism, while others again dragged their dead limbs +after them, having lost feeling through the palsy. To these +numerous and complicated diseases of the body, many had superadded +distemperature of the mind. An anabaptist of twenty-five years old +called out continually to be baptized, and when told with a sneer that +there was no parson on board, he became quiet, and died with great +resignation. Two papists on board gave what little money they had to +their friends, beseeching them, if they ever got back to Holland, to +lay it out in masses to St Anthony of Padua for the repose of their +souls. Others again would listen to nothing that had the smallest +savour of religion, for some time before they died. Some refused +meat and drink for twenty-four hours before death, while others were +suddenly carried off in the midst of conversation. + +All these various appearances of disease are attributed by the author +of this voyage principally to the bad quality of their provisions; +their salt meat being corrupted, their bread full of maggots, and +their water intolerably putrid. Under these circumstances medicines +were of no avail, being utterly unable to work a cure, and could at +best only defer death for a little, and protract the sufferings of +the sick. Though as well as any one in either ship, the author of this +journal had the scurvy to such a degree that his teeth were all loose, +his gums inflamed and ulcerated, and his body all over covered with +livid spots. Even such as were reputed in best health, were low, weak, +and much afflicted with the scurvy. Nothing could effectually relieve +or even alleviate their sufferings, except fresh meat, vegetables, +and sweet water. At length it pleased God to put a period to their +miseries, by giving them sight of the coast of New Britain, the joy of +which filled the sick with new spirits, and encouraged those who were +still able to move, with the enlivening hope of once more revisiting +their native land. Our author was fully of opinion, that if they +had been many days longer at sea, they must all have perished by the +continuance and necessary increase of the miseries which they endured, +which no description can possibly express in any thing like adequate +terms. + + + +SECTION VI. + +_Description of New Britain, and farther Continuation of the Voyage +till the Arrival of Roggewein at Java._ + +The country of New Britain, and all the islands in its neighbourhood, +is composed of very high land, many of the mountains hiding their +heads in the clouds. The sea coasts are however both pleasant and +fertile, the low lands being cloathed in perpetual verdure, and the +hills covered with a variety of trees, mostly bearing fruit. It is +in lat. between 4 deg.and 7 deg. S.[1] and both in regard to situation and +appearance, no country can promise better than this. After some +consultation, it was resolved to go on shore here at all events, +though now so much reduced by the long-continued sickness, that they +could hardly muster a sufficient number of men from both ships to man +a boat, and leave men enough, in case they were cut off, to navigate +one ship home, supposing them even to sacrifice one of the ships. Yet +such was the ardent desire of all to get on shore, and so urgent was +the necessity for that measure, that it appeared indispensable +to venture on landing, let the consequences be what they might. +Accordingly, our author was ordered into the boat, with as many men +as could be spared, with orders to get on shore at any rate, by fair +means if possible, and with the consent of the inhabitants, for whom +he carried a great number of baubles to distribute among them as +presents. If, however, these had no effect, he was then to use force, +as the circumstances to which they were reduced made it as eligible to +die by the hands of barbarians as to perish gradually by disease and +famine. + +[Footnote 1: No account is given of this voyage from Bowman's islands, +perhaps the Fee-jees, as already mentioned, to New Britain, neither +indeed is it any way expressed on what part of New Britain they had +now arrived. They probably steered a course N.W. or N.W. by W. from +the Fee-jees, and fell in with the N.E. part of New Britain, now known +to be a separate island, and called New Ireland; and by the lower +latitude mentioned, in the text, they appear to come first to the +eastern part of New Ireland; but it is impossible to say whether they +went to the N. or S. of Solomon's island.--E.] + +The nearer they drew towards the coast, the more they were delighted +with its appearance, as giving them a nearer prospect of the +wished-for refreshments. The inhabitants came down in multitudes to +the coast, but in such guise as did not by any means increase their +satisfaction, as they were all armed with bows and arrows and slings, +and demonstrated sufficiently by their gestures that the Dutch were +by no means welcome visitors, and that they were not to expect being +permitted to land peaceably. As the boat approached the shore, the +natives seemed to become frantic with despair, made frightful faces, +tore their hair, and howled in a horrible manner; and at length, as +borrowing courage from the increase of danger, they hurried into +their canoes and put off from the shore, as if to meet that danger the +sooner which was evidently unavoidable. As the Dutch continued their +way towards the land, the natives discharged a flight of arrows at the +boat, which they followed by throwing their spears or javelins, +after which they threw in a shower of stones discharged from slings. +Convinced now that there was nothing to be trusted to but force, the +Dutch opened their fire, and kept it up with such effect, that many of +the natives were slain, and the rest so terrified, that great numbers +of them leapt into the water to swim ashore, and at last all the +survivors followed the example, by turning their canoes towards the +land. But such was their confusion and dismay, that they were now +unable to distinguish the proper channels by which to get back to the +coast, but ran them on the rocks and shoals. This circumstance almost +deprived the Dutch of all hopes of being able to attain the coast. + +While thus embarrassed, there arose a violent storm, of that kind +which the Dutch call _traffat_, and which in the east is named a +_tuffoon_, which usually arises suddenly in the midst of a calm, and +when the air is perfectly clear and serene, and which, by its extreme +violence, often brings the masts by the board, and whirls the sails +into the air, if they are not furled in an instant. By this sudden +tempest, the two ships were forced out to sea, and the poor people in +the boat were left without relief, and almost devoid of hope. The boat +was forced on a sand-bank, where she was for some time so beaten by +the winds and waves, that there seemed no chance of escaping almost +instant destruction. But despair often lends strength and spirits to +men beyond their usual powers; and, by dint of great exertions, they +dragged their boat clear of the bank, and got to land, where all got +safe on shore without hurt, but almost exhausted by fatigue. The first +thing they did was to look out for some place of retreat, where they +might be safe from any sudden assault of the natives; but night came +on before any such could be found, so that they were forced to rest +contented with making a fire on the shore, in order to dry and warm +themselves, which in some measure revived their spirits. The light +of the fire enabled them to discover several huts or cabins of the +natives in the neighbourhood of where they were, on which they felt +inclined to examine them, but found neither inhabitants nor household +goods of any kind, all that they met with worth taking away being a +few nets of curious workmanship. They also saw abundance of cocoa-nut +trees, but, having no hatchets, were unable to come at any of the +fruit, and had to pass a most comfortless night, during which they +were perpetually disturbed and alarmed by the frightful noise of the +natives in the adjoining wood, whence they naturally concluded they +were every moment about to attack them. About midnight they heard a +signal from the ships, which had been able to come back to that +part of the coast, on which they immediately hastened on board, and +immediately continued their voyage along the coast of New Britain, +making their way with considerable difficulty through among numerous +islands. They named that part of the coast on which they landed, +_Stormland_, which was probably the same called _Slinger's bay_ by +Dampier, on account of the dexterity of the natives in the management +of that instrument. + +This country of New Britain seems to be extremely fertile, and to +abound in fruits of many sorts. The inhabitants are a tall well-made +people, perfect mulattoes in their complexions, with long black hair +hanging down to their waists, being extremely nimble and vigorous, +and so dexterous in the management of their weapons, that in all +probability they live in a state of continual warfare with their +neighbours. The sea along the coast is studded with numerous islands, +so that they had great difficulty in getting a passage through them. + +Notwithstanding the dangers they had already experienced, they +resolved to make another descent upon the coast on the first +opportunity, though they had not now ten men in both vessels in +perfect health, but their necessities admitted of no other remedy. +The stock-fish, on which they had lived for some time past, was now +so full of worms, and stunk so abominably, that, instead of eating +it, they were unable to come near it. The officers were unable now +to pacify the men with stories of relief in the East Indies, for +they unanimously declared that immediate death on shore would be more +welcome than living longer at sea in this dreadful condition. In +this forlorn condition they arrived in the lat. of 2 deg. S. where they +fortunately fell in with the islands of _Moa_ and _Arimoa_, [2] +formerly discovered by Schouten, and immediately determined upon +endeavouring to procure relief from Arimoa, the larger of these +islands. The natives, on perceiving the approach of the two ships, +came immediately off to meet them in their canoes, of which they +had prodigious numbers. All of these people were armed with bows and +arrows, even their women and children; but they brought with them +various refreshments, as cocoa-nuts, _pisans_, or Indian figs, with +various other fruits, and different kinds of roots, rowing directly to +the ships without any signs of fear or distrust. The Dutch gave them +such kind of trifles as they had by way of presents, and in return +for these refreshments; but on shewing more of these, and giving the +islanders to understand, by signs, that such was the merchandize they +had to give in barter for refreshments, they looked at them coolly, +as if they had no desire to trade for such commodities. Next day, +however, they returned with great quantities of similar articles of +provision; and the Dutch having endeavoured to express by signs +that they wished them to bring some hogs, the natives mistook their +meaning, and brought two or three dogs the day following, to the great +disappointment of the Dutch. + +[Footnote 2: It is utterly impossible to ascertain what islands are +here meant, as the indications of the voyage are so entirely vague. In +the indicated latitude, off the mouth of the Great bay, in New Guinea, +there are two considerable islands, named Mysory, or Schouten's +island, and Jobie, or Long-island, which may possibly be Arimoa and +Moa. Perhaps Jobie of our modern maps includes both, as in some more +recent maps it is laid down as two contiguous islands, and it is more +exactly in the indicated latitude, while Mysory is rather less than +one degree from the line.] + +These refreshments were very seasonable, and greatly amended the +health of many of the sick people in the two ships; and our author is +convinced that most of them would have perfectly recovered in a few +days, if they could have ventured to live on shore. The islanders +never failed to invite them ashore every time they came off; but being +greatly weakened, as for some days they had thrown four or five of +their people overboard, they did not think it prudent to run so great +a hazard; more especially as, even in the midst of their civility, the +air, look, and language of these people seemed to savour of perfidy, +and besides the island was extremely populous. The Dutch noticed that +these islanders, always on coming on board their ships, carried a +piece of stick to which some white stuff was fixed, as if in the +nature of a flag of truce, whence they supposed they were often at +war with some neighbouring nation or tribe, and especially with the +inhabitants of _Moa_, particularly as none of their canoes ever went +ashore on that island, but always, on the contrary, passed it with +evident precipitation. These remarks furnished the Dutch with a +new project by which to acquire a considerable stock of provisions +speedily, by a sudden descent on Moa, which appeared to be but thinly +peopled, though as pleasant and fertile as the other, hoping to carry +off at once enough of provisions to enable them to prosecute their +voyage, without the risk of falling again into the distress they had +so lately endured. + +This bold scheme required much prudence, and it was thought expedient +to land in different places at once, one party being directed to +advance into the country, while the others should be at hand to +support them, and to secure their retreat. This was accordingly very +happily effected; for, although the natives formed an ambush behind +the trees and bushes, and discharged their arrows at the principal +party as soon as they began to cut down the cocoa-trees, the Dutch +fortunately remained uninjured, and laid many of the natives dead by +discharges of their fire-arms. This so frightened the rest that they +took refuge in their canoes, whence they endeavoured by cries +and shouts to alarm the rest of their countrymen to come to their +assistance: But the Dutch were so judiciously posted as to constrain +them to remain in the mountains, by which means the main party were +enabled to carry off about 800 cocoa-nuts to their boats, with which +booty they rejoined their ships. + +The _cocoa-tree_ is a species of palm, found in most parts of the East +and West Indies. The trunk is large, straight, and lofty, tapering +insensibly to the top, whence the fruit hangs in bunches united by a +tendril, not unlike the twig of a vine, but stronger. The flowers are +yellow, resembling those of the chesnut. As it produces new bunches +every month, there are always some quite ripe, some green, some +just beginning to button, and others in full flower. The fruit is +three-lobed and of a greenish hue, of different sizes, from the size +of an ordinary tennis-ball, to that of a man's head, and is composed +of two rinds. The outer is composed of long tough fibres, between red +and yellow colour, the second being a hard shell. Within this is a +thick firm white substance or kernel, lining the shell, tasting like +a sweet almond; and in a central hollow of this kernel there is a +considerable quantity of a clear, bright, cool liquor, tasting like +sugared water. The natives of the countries in which these trees grow, +eat the kernel with their victuals instead of bread; and likewise +extract from it, by pressure, a liquor resembling milk of almonds +in taste and consistence. When this milk is exposed to the action of +fire, it changes to a kind of oil, which they use as we do butter +in dressing their victuals, and also burn in their lamps; and they +likewise employ it for smearing their bodies. They also draw from the +tree a liquor called _sura_ by the Indians, and which the Europeans +name _toddy_, or palm-wine. For this purpose, having cut one of the +largest twigs about a foot from the body of the tree, they hang to +this stump a bottle or calabash, into which the sap distils. This +_sura_ is of a very agreeable taste, little inferior to the Spanish +white wine; but being strong and heady, is generally diluted with +fresh clear water got from the nut It does not however keep, as it +becomes sour in about two days; when, by exposure to the sun, it is +converted into excellent vinegar. When boiled in its recent state, +it is converted into another liquor, called _orraqua_ by the Indians; +from which they distil a spirituous liquor called arrack, which many +people prefer to the other liquor of the same name distilled from rice +in India, which is so well known and so much esteemed in Europe. + +Besides cocoa-nuts, the Dutch found in Moa great plenty of +pomegranates of exquisite taste, and abundance of _pisans_ or Indian +figs. These refreshments were of infinite service to them, as without +them the whole of both ships companies must have inevitably perished; +and immediately on returning to their ships, they began to prepare +for resuming their voyage. While engaged in these preparations, the +inhabitants of Moa came off to the ships in about 200 canoes, which +they exchanged with the Dutch for various articles, apparently doing +this to prevent the Dutch from making a second descent on their +island: But on this occasion, though the Dutch received them kindly, +and treated them with fairness in purchasing their provisions, they +would only admit a few of them into the ships at once; and when the +islanders attempted to rush on board in crowds, they fired upon them. +On these occasions, the natives all ducked their heads, and when they +raised them again broke out into loud laughter. This exchange was no +sooner over than they weighed anchor and proceeded on their voyage. +The author of this narrative remarks, that such of the sick as had any +strength remaining recovered surprisingly at these islands, through +the excellent refreshments they procured there, while those who were +already quite exhausted soon died. + +Leaving these islands of _Moa_ and _Arimoa_, they continued their +voyage through a part of the sea so very full of islands, that finding +it difficult or impossible to count them, they gave them the name of +_Thousand Isles_.[3] Their inhabitants were negroes, of a short squat +make, and their heads covered with thick curled wool, being a bold, +mischievous, and intractable race of savages. They were all naked, +men, women, and children, having no other ornaments except a belt +about two fingers broad, stuck fall of teeth, and bracelets of +the same; and some of them wore light straw hats, adorned with the +feathers of the _Bird-of-Paradise_. These birds are said to be found +no where else but in these islands. Such of these islands as are +situated near the west point of New Guinea are still called the +_Islands of the Popoes_ or _Papuas_, the continent itself being called +the _Land of Papua_, till Schouten imposed upon it the name of _New +Guinea_, chiefly because of its being in the same latitude with _Old +Guinea_.[4] + +[Footnote 3: These appear, by the sequel, to have been the islands +at the N.W. extremity of Papua or New Guinea, and from thence to +Celebes--E.] + +[Footnote 4: More probably because of its inhabitants being +negroes.--E.] + +When the inhabitants of these islands go to Ternate, Banda, Amboina, +or any of the Moluccas, in order to sell their salt pork, amber,[5] +gold-dust, and other merchandise, they always carry some of these +_Birds-of-Paradise_, which they constantly sell dead, affirming that +they find them so, and that they know not whence they come or where +they breed. This bird is always seen very high in the air. It is +extremely light, as its bulk consists mostly of feathers, which are +extremely beautiful, rendering it one of the greatest curiosities in +the world. The plumage of the head is as bright as burnished gold; +that of the neck resembles the neck of a drake; and those of the wings +and tail are like those of a peacock. In beak and form, this bird +comes nearest to a swallow, though considerably larger. Such as deal +in them endeavour to persuade strangers that they have no feet, and +that they hang themselves, when they sleep, to the boughs of trees by +means of their feathers. But, in reality, these traders cut off their +feet, to render them the more wonderful. They also pretend that the +male has a cavity on his back, where the female lodges her young till +they are able to fly. They always cut off the feet of these birds so +close to the body, that the flesh dries in such a manner that the skin +and feathers perfectly unite, making it impossible to perceive the +smallest scar. They also assert, that these birds are perpetually on +the wing, subsisting on birds and insects, which they catch in the +air. The feathers of the male are much brighter than those of the +female. In the east, this bird is usually called _Mancodiata_, or the +Bird-of-God. Great numbers of them are sent to Batavia, where they +generally sell for three crowns each. The Moors, Arabians, and +Persians are anxious to procure these birds, with which they adorn +their saddles and housings, often mixing with them pearls and +diamonds. They wear them also in their turbans, especially on going +to war, having a superstitious notion that they act as a charm or +talisman, capable of preserving them from wounds. Formerly, the Shah +and Mogul used to present their favourites with one of these birds, as +a mark of esteem or favour. + +[Footnote 5: Perhaps ambergris ought to be here understood.--E.] + +Besides their girdle and bracelets, formerly mentioned, the _Popoes_, +or inhabitants of the Thousand Isles, wear a bit of stick, the size of +a tobacco-pipe and the length of a finger, thrust through the gristle +of the nose, which they think renders them terrible to their enemies, +as some Europeans consider mustachios. They are the worst and most +savage people in all the South Seas. The continent of _New Guinea_ +appeared a high country, extremely full of trees and plants of a vast +variety of kinds, so that, in sailing 400 leagues along its coast, +they did not observe one barren spot. Our author thinks that it +probably contains many precious commodities, as rich metals and +valuable spices, especially as most of the countries hitherto +discovered under the same parallel are not deficient in such riches. +He was afterwards assured, that some of the free burgesses in the +Moluccas go annually to New Guinea, where they exchange small pieces +of iron for nutmegs. Schouten and other navigators conceived high +ideas of this country, and represented it as one of the finest and +richest in the world; but they were unable to penetrate any way into +the interior, which could not be done with a small force, as it is +extremely populous, and the natives are mostly well armed, and of a +martial disposition. + +Roggewein and his officers were at this time in considerable doubts, +whether to prosecute the route formerly followed by Dampier, or to go +by Ternate, Tidore, and Bacian, as the less dangerous passage. To +gain time, however, they chose the former, as they most otherwise +have coasted round the last-mentioned islands, in their way to the +Moluccas. In this view, they steered along shore, or rather through an +innumerable chain of small islands, extending from the western point +of New Guinea to the island of Gilolo, making their passage with much +difficulty and danger, and were greatly delighted and astonished on +getting sight of the island of _Bouro_, in lat. 2 deg. S. [3 deg. 30' S. and +long. 127 deg. E.] the most eastern country in which the Dutch East-India +Company, maintain a factory. This island is mostly pretty high land, +and abounds every where with trees and shrubs of various kinds. On +their arrival upon its coast, they were spoken with by a small vessel, +in which were two white men and several blacks. The white men examined +them very strictly to whom they belonged, whence they came, and +whither they were bound. To which they answered, that they came from +New Guinea, and were going to Batavia, but wisely concealed belonging +to the West-India Company, knowing that the East-India Company +permitted no vessels, except their own, to navigate these seas, and +had given strict orders to capture all strange vessels that might +appear there. Yet, in spite of these precautions, the English +sometimes find their way among these islands, to the no small +displeasure of the Dutch company, although they keep ships cruizing +here during both monsoons, to preserve their monopoly of spices. + +The island of _Bouro_ is about forty or fifty leagues in +circumference, and is indifferently fertile, formerly producing +abundance of clove-trees; but a detachment of Dutch soldiers is sent +yearly to grub them up, as they do also in the other Molucca islands, +because Amboina is thought to produce enough of that commodity to +maintain their commerce. Formerly also the Dutch had a strong fort +here, which the natives took and demolished after a long siege, +putting all the garrison to the sword. At present, [in 1721,] +the company only sends a detachment of soldiers to root out the +clove-trees, for which the inhabitants receive some present. The two +whites who were on board this Dutch bark were the first Christians +seen by Roggewein for the space of ten months, or since leaving the +coast of Brazil. Continuing their course for the island of _Bootan_, +in hopes of meeting with refreshments, of which they were now in +extreme want, they arrived there in lat 4 deg. S.[6] and sailed along its +coast for a whole day, in hopes of finding the strait for which they +sought, and at length found they were eight leagues to leeward of +it, and the monsoon now blew too strong to be able to bear up for the +intended port. They had now no hopes of being able to find any port +for refreshments till they should arrive at the island of Java; as, +wherever they might attempt to land, they well knew that their ships +would be confiscated, in consequence of the invariable maxims of the +East-India Company. All men therefore, but especially the sick and +feeble, cast an anxious look on the fertile island now left behind +them, presaging the melancholy effects which must necessarily attend +so pernicious a measure. + +[Footnote 6: The northern end of Bootan is in lat. 4 deg. 40' S.] + +The situation of the island of _Bootan_ is remarkably advantageous, +being in from 4 deg. to 6 deg. of S. latitude, and nearly equal in size to the +island of _Bouro_. It is extremely fertile, especially in rice, and +has abundance of cattle and fish. It would also produce plenty both +of clove and nutmeg trees, if they were permitted to grow. The king +of the island has a very strong fort, on which the Dutch standard is +displayed, though there is no Dutch garrison; the company contenting +itself with sending deputies yearly to see the spice trees destroyed, +in consideration of which the king receives a considerable sum +yearly from the company. This nation is the most faithful of all the +inhabitants of the Indian islands to the India company, having not +only assisted them in expelling the Portuguese, but also against the +inhabitants of the Moluccas, whenever they have attempted to revolt; +by which means the company has acquired the whole trade of this part +of the world. In consideration of this, the inhabitants of Bootan +enjoy many privileges that are denied to all other Indians: As, for +instance, they are allowed to come into any of the Dutch forts armed, +which is never allowed even to the natives of the countries in which +the forts are situated. Some time before this voyage, the king of +Bootan sent his eldest son ambassador to the governor-general +of Batavia, where he was received with every mark of honour and +distinction. It would not have been easy to have known this prince for +an Indian, had he not worn a triple-rowed turban, richly adorned +with gold and precious stones, as the rest of his dress was entirely +European, and he wore a sword instead of a cutlass, which no Indian +had done before. His train was numerous and splendid, all dressed +in the Indian manner: Twelve of them were armed with cuirasses and +bucklers, carrying each a naked sword resting on his shoulder. At this +time there was a prodigious mortality in Batavia, which carried off +500 of the attendants of this prince, and destroyed no less than +150,000 persons in one year, besides vast numbers of beasts. This +mortality was occasioned by a malignant pestilential fever, which +attacked indiscriminately all the inhabitants of Batavia, Europeans, +natives, Chinese, and blacks. It spread also through Bengal and all +the dominions of the Great Mogul, where it made incredible ravages, +and extended even to Japan in the most extreme violence, where numbers +fell down dead in the streets, who had left their houses in perfect +health. This dreadful malady was supposed to have arisen from +excessive drought, as no rain had fallen during the space of two +years, whence it was conceived that the air was surcharged with +mineral vapours. + +Leaving the island of Bootan, and passing through the channel of +the Moluccas, or between the S.W. leg of Celebes and Salayr +islands, during which course the crews of the two vessels suffered +inexpressible miseries, by which the greatest part of them were +carried off, Roggewein arrived on the coast of Java towards the close +of September 1722. + + + +SECTION VII. + +_Occurrences from their Arrival at the Island of Java, to the +Confiscation of the Ships at Batavia._ + +Roggewein came to anchor immediately in the road of Japara, and +saluted the city and fort, after which the boats were hoisted out to +go on shore, where they were astonished to find that it was Saturday, +whereas on quitting their ships they conceived it to be Friday +morning. This was occasioned by having come round from the east +along with the sun, by which they had lost a day in their reckoning. +Roggewein immediately waited upon Ensign Kuster, a very civil and +well-behaved gentleman, who commanded there on the part of the +East-India Company, to whom he gave an account of his motives for +coming to this place. Kuster immediately assembled a council, to +consider what measures were to be taken on this occasion, and all +were much moved at the recital of the miseries which Roggewein and +his people had endured. In truth, never were men more worthy of +compassion. Only ten persons remained in any tolerable health, and +twenty-six were down in various sicknesses, by which, exclusive of +those who had been slain in their different engagements with the +Indians, they had lost seventy men during the voyage. Their next care +was to get the sick men on shore, which was done with all care and +diligence, slinging them in their hammocks into the boats. Four of +these poor people were in so low a condition that it was thought +impossible they could bear removal, and they were therefore left on +board, the very thoughts of which, after their companions went ashore, +soon killed them. Those who were carried on shore were lodged under +tents in an island, where they had every necessary afforded them that +the country produced, yet many of them died. + +Mr Kuster sent an immediate account of their arrival to the +commandant of the coasts of Java, who instantly forwarded it to Mr +_Swaardekroon_, at that time governor-general of the East Indies. He +sent a favourable answer, promising every assistance in his power, and +adding, that they had nothing to do but to get to Batavia as soon as +possible. While waiting the answer of the governor-general and the +recovery of their sick, they passed their time agreeably enough at +Japara, as their countrymen used them with all imaginable kindness. +In a few days, the seamen became as frolicsome and gay as if they had +made a pleasant and fortunate voyage; insomuch, that those who, only +a few days before, were weeping, sighing, praying, and making warm +protestations of leading new lives, if God in his mercy were pleased +to save them, now ran headlong into the greatest extravagances; +spending their whole time in debauched houses, and in swearing and +drinking. This our author attributed to the bad example of those among +whom they lived, all the lower people at Japara being as lewd and +profligate as could be imagined; insomuch, that the first question +they put to strangers from Europe is, if they have brought over any +new oaths. + +The town of _Japara_ is seated at the bottom of a mountain of moderate +height, is of a middling size, and is inhabited by Javans, Chinese, +and Dutch; and was of more considerable extent than now, when in the +hands of the Portuguese. Before getting possession of Jacatra, now +Batavia, the Dutch East-India Company had their principal magazines +for trade at this place, which was their chief factory, and on which +all the other factories in Java were dependent; but it has fallen much +in importance since the factory was transferred to Samarang. The port +of Japara is both safe and commodious, and is defended by a fort, +built mostly of wood, on the top of the mountain at the foot of which +the town is seated. This fort is called the _Invincible Mountain_, +because the Javanese were constantly defeated in all their attempts to +get it into their hands, when in possession of the Portuguese; and its +guns command the whole road. + +The king of Japara mostly resides at a place called _Kattasura_, about +twenty-nine leagues up the country, where the Dutch have a strong +fort with a good garrison, serving at the same time to secure their +conquest, and to guard the king. This prince is a Mahomedan, and is +served entirely by women, of whom he takes as many as he pleases, +either as wives or concubines. Some of his priests are obliged to +go every year on pilgrimage to Mecca, in order to make vows for the +safety and prosperity of the king and royal family. His subjects are +extremely faithful, and devoted to his service; the principal persons +of his court having to approach him on their knees, every time they +have an audience; but in time of war, this slavish custom is dispensed +with. Such as commit the slightest fault, are poniarded on the spot by +a kriss or dagger; this being almost the only punishment in use among +them, as the smallest faults and the greatest crimes are all equally +capital. The natives of this country are mostly of a very brown +complexion, tolerably well shaped, and having long black hair, which +however many of them cut short. Their noses are all flat and broad, +and their teeth very black, owing to the incessant chewing of betel +and faufel. + +The _faufel_ or _areka_ is a kind of nut, not much unlike a nutmeg, +but smaller, and in a great measure tasteless, but yielding a red +juice when chewed, which juice also is used by the Indians in painting +chintzes, so much admired in Europe. The tree which bears this nut is +very straight, and has leaves like those of the cocoa-nut tree. The +_betel_ is a plant producing long rank leaves, shaped like those of +the citron, and having an agreeable bitter taste. The fruit of this +plant resembles a lizard's tail, and is about an inch and half long, +having a pleasant aromatic flavour. The Indians continually carry +the leaves of this plant, which also are presented at all ceremonious +visits. They are almost continually chewing these leaves, and they +mostly qualify their extreme bitterness by the addition of the faufel +or areka-nut, and the powder of calcined oyster-shells, which give +them a very agreeable taste; though some mix their betel leaves with +shell lime, ambergris, and cardamom seeds, while others use Chinese +tobacco. After all the juice is chewed out, they throw away the +remaining dry mass. Many Europeans have got into the habit of chewing +betel, so that they cannot leave it off, though it has proved fatal to +some of them; for the natives are very skilful in preparing betel so +as to do a man's business as effectually as a pistol or a dagger. + +The prevailing diversion among these people is called _tandakes_, +which are a kind of comedies, acted by women very richly dressed, and +consists chiefly in singing and dancing, accompanied by music, not +very pleasant to European ears, the only instruments being small +drums, on which they beat with much dexterity. Their dancing is mostly +of a grotesque kind, in which they are very dexterous, throwing +their bodies into all sorts of postures with astonishing agility, and +expressing by them the passions of the mind so comically, that it is +impossible to refrain from laughing. The men also practise a kind +of war dance, in which the king and grandees bear a part. They also +practise cock-fighting, like the English, and bet such considerable +sums on this sport as often beggars them. + +The country abounds in all the necessaries of life, having abundance +of beeves and hogs, and amazing quantities of fowls. The only thing +scarce is mutton, chiefly owing to the richness of the pasture, +which is very apt to burst the sheep. As to wild animals, they have +buffaloes, stags, tygers, and rhinoceroses; which last animal is +hunted by the Indians chiefly for the sake of its horns, of which they +make drinking cups that are greatly valued, owing to a notion that +they will not contain poison, but break immediately on that being +poured into them. The high price of these tends to shew that the +Javanese are addicted to the infamous practice of poisoning. The land +is every where extremely fertile, producing vast abundance of pepper, +ginger, cinnamon, rice, cardamoms, and other valuable articles. Of +late they have planted coffee, and with such success as to have a +reasonable hope of rendering it a principal commodity of the country. +Cocoa-nuts, figs, and a variety of other excellent fruits grow every +where in the greatest profusion; and as the trees on which they grow +are verdant during the whole year, and are planted in rows along the +rivers, they form the most agreeable walks that can be conceived. +Sugar-canes also abound in Java. They have also plenty of vines, which +produce ripe grapes seven times every year, but they are only fit +for making raisins, and not wine, being too hastily ripened by the +climate. The sea, and all the rivers, furnish an infinite variety of +the finest fish. Thus, taking it altogether, it may be safely affirmed +that Java is one of the most plentiful and pleasantest islands in the +world. + +Having refreshed at Japara for about a month, Roggewein began to +think of proceeding to Batavia, encouraged by the fine promises of the +governor-general. Every thing being ready, the voyagers spent two +days in taking leave of their kind friends, who supplied them with all +sorts of provisions, much more than sufficient for so short a voyage, +and they at length departed, feeling a sensible regret at parting with +those who had treated them with so much kindness, relieving all their +wants with so much generosity, and had enabled them to spend several +weeks in peace and plenty, after a long period of sickness and misery. +Steering from thence about seventy leagues to the westwards, with a +fair wind, they entered the road of Batavia, where they saluted the +fort, and anchored close to the ships that were loading for the voyage +home, believing that all their distresses were now over, and that they +should speedily accompany these other ships homewards. As soon as +the ships were safely anchored, Roggewein went along with the other +captains into his boat, meaning to have gone ashore to Batavia, but +had not proceeded far from the ship when he met a boat having the +commandant of Batavia on board, together with the fiscal, and some +other members of the council, by whom he was desired to go back to his +ship, which he did immediately; and, when the two boats came within +hearing of the ships, the fiscal proclaimed, with a loud voice, that +both ships were confiscated by order of the governor-general. At this +time both ships were so environed by other large vessels belonging +to the East India Company, that it was impossible to have escaped, +if they had so inclined; and soon afterwards several hundred soldiers +came on board, taking possession of both ships, and placing their +crews under safe custody. Taught by so many and such unlooked-for +misfortunes, Roggewein now thoroughly repented having proposed to +return home by way of the East Indies, but was now wise behind hand. +He had neglected prosecuting the discovery on which he had been +sent, for which he now suffered a just punishment from the East India +Company, however unjust in itself the sentence might be considered. By +the sentence, both ships were declared legal prizes, and all the goods +they contained were confiscated; and to prevent all trouble and delay +from representations, reclamations, or memorials, every thing was +immediately exposed to public auction, and sold to the highest +bidders. The crews of both ships were divided, and put on board +several of the homeward-bound ships. + + + +SECTION VIII. + +_Description of Batavia and the Island of Java, with some Account of +the Government of the Dutch East India Company's Affairs._ + +The city of Batavia lies in the lat. of 6 deg. 20' S. and long. 107 deg. E. +from Greenwich, being the capital of all the vast dominions belonging +to the Dutch East India Company, serving also as the emporium of +its prodigious trade, where all the merchandise and riches of that +princely and wealthy company are laid up. It fell into the hands of +the Dutch company in 1618, till which time it was known by the name of +_Jacatra_, and soon afterwards they built a fort in the neighbourhood +of that native city, to which they gave the name of Batavia. By the +time this was hardly well finished, the natives of the island attacked +it, animated and assisted by the English, and repeated their attempts +several times, but always unsuccessfully, and to their great loss. +The last time, they kept it blockaded for a considerable time, till +succoured by a powerful squadron from Europe under Admiral Koen, when +the siege was immediately raised, and the natives obliged to retire +with the utmost precipitation. The Dutch had now leisure to consider +the excellent situation of the fort, and the many advantages it +possessed for becoming the centre of their East Indian trade and +dominion, on which they resolved to build a town in the neighbourhood +of the fort. With this view they demolished Jacatra, and erected on +its ruins this famous commercial city, which they named Batavia. + +This city arrived at perfection in a short time, by the extraordinary +diligence bestowed upon its construction, in spite of the many +obstacles it met with from the two kings of Matarana and Bantam; the +former of whom laid siege to it in 1629, and the latter in 1649. It +is surrounded by an earthen rampart of twenty-one feet thick, faced on +the outside with stone, and strengthened by twenty-two bastions, the +whole environed by a ditch forty-five yards wide, and quite full of +water, especially in spring-tides. All the approaches to the town are +defended by several detached forts, all of which are well furnished +with excellent brass cannon. Six of these are so considerable as +to deserve being particularly mentioned, which are, Ansiol, Anke, +Jacatra, Ryswyk, Noordywyk, and Vythock. The fort of _Ansiol_ is +seated on a river of the same name, to the eastwards, and about 1200 +yards from the city, being built entirely of squared stone, and always +provided with a strong garrison. _Anke_ is on a river of the same +name, to the westwards, about 500 yards from the city, and is built +like the former. _Jacatra_ lies also on a river of the same name, and +is exactly like the two former, being 500 paces from the city. The +road to this fort lies between two regular rows of fine trees, having +very fine country houses and gardens on each side. The other three +forts are all built of similar materials on the inland side of the +city, and at small distances; the two first-named serving to secure +the city on the side of the sea, and the other four to defend the +approaches towards it from the land, and at the same time to protect +the country houses, plantations, and gardens of the inhabitants. +By these, all enemies are prevented from coming upon the city by +surprise, as on every side they would be sure to meet a formidable +resistance; and besides, no person is allowed to pass the forts, even +outwards, unless with a passport. + +The river of Jacatra passes through the middle of the city, and +supplies water to fifteen canals, all faced with freestone, and +adorned on each side with ever-green trees, affording a charming +prospect. Over these canals, which are all within the city, there are +fifty-six bridges, besides others without the town. The streets are +all perfectly straight, and are in general thirty feet broad on each +side, besides the breadth of the canals. The houses are built of +stone, mostly of several stories high, like those in the cities of +Holland. The city of Batavia is about a league and a half in circuit, +but is surrounded by a vast number of houses without the walls, which +may be considered as forming suburbs, and in which there is ten times +the population that is within the city. It has five gates, including +that leading to the port, near to which there is a boom, or barrier, +which is shut every night at nine o'clock, and at which there is a +strong guard of soldiers night and day. There were formerly six +gates, but one of these has since been walled up. There is a very fine +stadt-house, or town-hall, and four churches for the Calvinists. The +first of these, named _Kruist-kirk_, or Cross-church, was built in +1640, and the second in 1672, and in both of these the worship is +in the Dutch language. The third church belongs to the _protestant_ +Portuguese, and the fourth is for the Malays who have been converted +to the reformed Christian religion. Besides these, there are abundance +of other places of worship for various sorts of religions. + +They have likewise in this city a _Spin-hays_, or house of correction +for the confinement of disorderly women; an orphan-house, and arsenal +of marine stores, and many magazines for spiceries: Also many wharfs, +docks, rope-walks, and other public buildings. The garrison usually +consists of from two to three thousand men. Besides the forts formerly +mentioned, the famous citadel or castle of Batavia is a fine regular +fortification, having four bastions, situated at the mouth of the +river opposite to the city; two of its bastions fronting towards the +sea and commanding the anchorage, while the other two face towards +the city. There are two main gates to the citadel, one called the +Company's gate, which was built in 1636, to which leads a stone bridge +of fourteen arches, each of which is twenty-six feet span, and ten +feet wide. The other is called the Water-gate. Besides which, there +are two posterns, one in the east curtain, and the other in the +west, neither of which are ever opened except for the purposes of the +garrison. In this citadel the governor-general resides, having a brick +palace two stories high, with a noble front of Italian architecture. +Opposite to this palace is that of the director-general, who is next +in rank to the governor. The counsellors and other principal officers +of the company have also their apartments within the citadel, together +with the chief physician, chief surgeon, and chief apothecary. There +in also a remarkably neat and light small church, and there are many +magazines and store-houses well furnished with ammunition and military +stores; and in it are the offices in which all the affairs of the +company are transacted, and archives for containing all the records. + +Besides many Dutch, all of whom are either in the service of the +company or free burgesses, the city is inhabited by a vast number +of people of many different Indian nations, besides many Portuguese, +French, and other Europeans, established here on account of trade. The +Portuguese are mostly descendants of those who lived formerly here or +at Goa, and who, finding their account in living under the government +of the Dutch, did not think proper to remove after the Dutch had +reduced the country; but far the greater number of these are now of +the reformed religion. The Indian inhabitants consist of Javanese, or +natives of the island, Chinese, Malays, negroes, Amboinese, Armenians, +natives of the island of Bali, Mardykers, Macassars, Bougis, and +others. It is a very curious thing to see so great a multitude of +different nations all living in the same great city, and each nation +according to their own manners. Every moment one sees new customs, +strange manners, varieties of dresses, and faces of different colours, +as black, white, brown, yellow, and olive-coloured; every one living +as he pleases, and all speaking their different languages. Yet, amidst +all this variety of people and customs so opposite to each other, +there is a surprising unity among the citizens, occasioned by the +advantages of commerce, the common object of all, so that they live +harmoniously and happily under the gentle and prudent laws established +by the company. All enjoy perfect liberty of conscience, whatever may +be their religion or sect, only that none are permitted the public +exercise of their religion except the Calvinists, any more than in +Holland, so that priests and monks must not walk the streets in the +habits of their respective orders. All are however allowed to live +here in peace, and may exercise the rites of their religion within +doors. Jesuits are, however, excluded, for fear of their intrigues; +and the Chinese religion, because of its abominable idolatry, is +obliged to have its pagoda, or idol temple, about a league from the +city, where also they bury their dead. + +Every Indian nation settled at Batavia has its chief or head, who +watches over the interests of his nation, but is not allowed to decide +upon any thing of importance, his chief functions being those of +religion, and to decide slight controversies among his countrymen. The +_Japanese_ chiefly addict themselves to agriculture, ship-building, +and fishing. These people, for the most part, only wear a kind of +short petticoat, reaching to their knees, all the rest of their +bodies being naked, having also a sort of scarf or sash across their +shoulders, from which hangs a short sword. On their heads they wear +small bonnets. Their huts or cabins are remarkably neater than those +of the other Indians, built of split bamboos, with large spreading +roofs, under which they sit in the open air. + +The _Chinese_ are very numerous, as it is reckoned there are at least +five thousand of them in the city and its suburbs. These people seem +naturally born for trade, and are great enemies to idleness, thinking +nothing too hard or laborious that is attended with a prospect of +gain. They can live on very little, are bold, enterprising, possessed +of much address, and indefatigably industrious. Their sagacity, +penetration, and subtilty, are so extraordinary as to make good their +own saying, "That the Dutch have only one eye, while they have two;" +but they are deceitful beyond measure, taking a pride in imposing on +those who deal with them, and even boast of that cunning of which they +ought to be ashamed. In husbandry and navigation they surpass all the +other nations of India. Most of the sugar-mills around Batavia belong +to them, and the distillery of arrack is entirely in their hands. They +are the carriers of eastern Asia, and even the Dutch often make use +of their vessels. They keep all the shops and most of the inns of +Batavia, and farm all the duties of excise and customs. Generally +speaking, they are well-made men, of an olive complexion, their heads +being peculiarly round, with small eyes, and short flat noses. They +do not cut their hair, as all in China are obliged to do since the +Tartars conquered the country; and whenever any one comes to Batavia +from China, he immediately suffers his hair to grow, as a token +of freedom, dressing it with the utmost care; their priests only +excepted, whose heads are all close shaven. + +The Chinese go always bare headed, carrying an umbrella in their hands +to keep off the sun; and they suffer their nails to grow immoderately +long, which gives them prodigious dexterity in slight of hand, an art +of considerable importance as they use it. Their dress here differs +materially from what they wear in their own country, their cotton +robes being very ample, and their sleeves very wide. Below this they +have a kind of breeches reaching to their ancles, having a kind +of little slippers on their feet instead of shoes, and never wear +stockings. Their women, who are very brisk, lively, impudent, and +debauched, wear very long cotton robes. In general, the Chinese have +no distinction of meats, but eat without ceremony of any animal that +comes to hand, be it even dog, cat, or rat, or what it may. They are +amazingly fond of shows and entertainments. Their feast of the new +year, which they celebrate in the beginning of March, commonly lasts +a whole month; during which they do nothing but divert themselves, +chiefly in dancing, which they do in a strange manner, running round +about to the sound of gongs, flutes, and trumpets, which do not form a +very agreeable concert. They use the same music at their comedies, +or theatrical diversions, of which they are extremely fond: These +comedies consist of a strange mixture of drama, opera, and pantomime, +as they sometimes sing, sometimes speak, and at other times the whole +business of the scene consists in gesture. They have none but _women_ +players,[1] who are brought up to this employment from their infancy; +but many of them act male parts, using proper disguises for the +purpose. Whenever they act a comedy, the city receives fifty crowns +for a licence. They erect the theatre in the street, in front of the +house of him who is at the expence of the play, the subject of +which always turns on the exploits of their ancient heroes, or the +austerities of their old saints. + +[Footnote 1: This may possibly have been the case at this time in +Batavia; but we are assured by recent travellers in China, that they +have there none but _men_ players, the female parts being acted by +youths.--E.] + +The funerals of the Chinese are very singular, as well as very rich +and pompous, forming grand and solemn processions, in which sometimes +at least 500 persons of both sexes assist, the women being all +cloathed in white. At these funerals they employ music to heighten the +shew, together with coloured umbrellas and canopies, carrying their +principal idol, which they call _Joostie de Batavia_, under one of +their canopies. Their tombs are some of them very magnificent. They +follow the idolatrous religion of their native country, and have a +pagoda, or idol temple, about the distance of a league from the +city, where they assemble for worship. They are perhaps the grossest +idolaters, and the most ridiculous in their opinions, of all the +pagans of the east, as they openly profess to worship and adore the +devil. This does not proceed from their ignorance or unbelief in a +God, but rather from mistaken notions in their belief concerning him. +They say that God is infinitely good and merciful, giving to man every +thing he possesses, and never doing any hurt; and therefore that there +is no need to worship him. But with the devil, the author of all ill, +they are desirous to live upon good terms, and to omit nothing that +can entitle them to his good graces. It is the devil therefore whom +they represent by the idol above mentioned, and in whose honour they +have frequently great feasts and rejoicings. + +Like the Javans, the Chinese are extravagantly addicted to gaming +and laying wagers; and this humour, especially at cock-fights and the +new-year's feasts, drives them sometimes into downright madness. +They will not only stake and lose their money, goods, and houses, but +sometimes their wives and children; and when these are all lost, will +stake their beards, nails, and winds; that is, they bind themselves +not to shave their beards, pare their nails, or go on board ship to +trade, till they have paid their game debts. When reduced to this +condition, they are forced to hire themselves as the bond slaves of +some other Chinese. Under such misfortunes their only resource is, +that some relative, either at Batavia or China, pays their debts out +of compassion, and by that means reinstates them in their property and +freedom. + +The _Malays_ who live at Batavia usually employ themselves in fishing, +having very neat and shewy vessels, the sails of which are most +ingeniously constructed of straw. These are a most wicked and +profligate people, who often commit atrocious murders for very +trifling gain. They profess the Mahomedan religion, but are so +absolutely devoid of moral principle, that they even make a boast and +merit of cheating Christians. Their last chief was publicly whipped +and branded for his frauds and villainies, his goods confiscated, and +he himself banished to Ceylon; since when they have been ashamed +to elect another chief. Their habits are of silk or cotton, the men +wearing a piece of cotton round their heads, and their black hair tied +into a knot behind. + +The blacks or negroes at Batavia are mostly Mahomedans, who come +chiefly from Bengal, dressing like the Malays, and living in the same +quarter of the city. Some of them work at different mechanic trades, +and others are a kind of pedlars; but the most considerable of them +trade in stones for buildings, which they bring from the neighbouring +islands. + +The _Amboinese_ are chiefly employed in building houses of bamboos, +the windows of which are made of split canes, very nicely wrought in +various figures. They are a bold boisterous race, and so turbulent +that they are not permitted to reside in the city, but have their +quarter near the Chinese burying ground. The chief of their own +nation, to whom they pay the utmost submission, has a magnificent +house in their quarter, well furnished after their manner. Their arms +are chiefly large sabres and long bucklers. The men wear a piece of +cotton cloth wrapped round their heads, the ends of which hang down +behind, and adorn this species of turban with a variety of flowers. +Their women wear a close habit, and a cotton mantle over their +shoulders, having their arms bare. Their houses are built of boards, +thatched with leaves, usually two or three stories high, the ground +floor especially being divided into several apartments. + +The _Mardykers_ or _Topasses_ are idolaters from various Indian +nations, and follow various trades and professions; and their +merchants, under licences or passports from the company, carry on +considerable commerce among the neighbouring islands. Some of these +people are gardeners, others rear cattle, and others breed fowls. The +men of this mixed tribe generally dress after the Dutch fashion, but +the women wear the habits of other Indians. These people dwell both +in the city and country, their houses being better than those of the +other Indians, built of stone or brick, several stories high, and very +neat. There are also some _Macassers_ at Batavia, so famous for their +little poisoned arrows, which they blow from tubes. This poison is +made of the juice of a certain tree, which grows in Macasser and the +_Bougis_ islands, into which they dip the points of the arrows and +allow them to dry. The wound inflicted by these arrows is absolutely +mortal. The _Bougis_ are natives of three or four islands near +Macasser, and since the conquest of that island have settled at +Batavia. They are very bold and hardy fellows, for which reason they +are employed as soldiers by the company. Their arms are bows and +arrows, with sabres and bucklers. Besides these enumerated nations, +which contribute to form the population of Batavia, there are several +Armenians and some other Asiatics who reside there occasionally for +the sake of trade, and stay no longer than their affairs require, All +the inhabitants around Batavia, and for a track of about forty leagues +along the mountains of the country of Bantam, are immediately subject +to the governor-general, who sends _drossards_ or commissaries among +them, to administer justice, and to collect the public revenues; and +the chief men of the several districts resort at certain times to +Batavia, to give an account of the behaviour of these commissaries. + +The city of Batavia, and all the dominions possessed by the company in +the East Indies, are governed by two supreme councils, one of which is +named the Council of the Indies, and the other the Council of Justice, +both of which are fixed at Batavia, the capital of the dominions +belonging to the company. To the first of these belong all matters +of government, and the entire direction of public affairs, and to +the other the administration of justice in all its branches. The +governor-general always presided in the former of these councils, +which is ordinarily composed of eighteen or twenty persons, called +counsellors of the Indies; but it seldom happens that these are all +at Batavia at one time, as they are usually promoted to the seven +governments which are at the disposal of the company. This council +assembles regularly twice a-week, besides as often extraordinarily as +the governor pleases. They deliberate on all affairs concerning the +interest of the company, and superintend the government of the island +of Java and its dependencies: But in affairs of very great importance, +the approbation and consent of the directors of the company in Europe +must be had. From this Council of the Indies, orders and instructions +are sent to all the other governments, which must be implicitly +obeyed. In this council, all letters addressed to the governor or +director-general are read and debated, and answers agreed upon by a +plurality of voices. + +The Council of Justice consists of a president, who is generally a +counsellor of the Indies, together with eight counsellors of justice, +a fiscal or attorney-general for affairs of government, another fiscal +for maritime affairs, and a secretary. The first fiscal has a vote +along with the counsellors, and receives a third part of all fines +below an hundred florins, and a sixth part of all above that sum. +The duty of his office is to observe that the laws are obeyed, and to +prefer informations against those who break them. The fiscal of the +sea has jurisdiction over all frauds committed in commerce, in cases +of piracy, or in whatever tends to disturb the settled rules of +maritime affairs. Besides these sovereign tribunals, there is a +council of the city of Batavia, consisting of nine burgomasters or +aldermen, including a president, who is always a member of the Council +of the Indies, and a vice-president. The bailiff of the city, and the +commissary of the adjacent territory, have also seats in this council, +to which likewise there is a secretary. + +The governor-general is head of the empire belonging to the company in +India, being as it were stadtholder, captain-general, and admiral of +the Indies. By his office he is president of the supreme council, in +which he has two voices. He has the keys of all the magazines, and +directs every thing belonging to them, without being accountable to +any one. He commands by his own proper authority, and every person is +bound to obey him, so that his authority equals, and even surpasses, +that of several European sovereigns. But he is accountable to, and +removeable by the directors at home. In cases, however, of being +guilty of treason, or any other enormous crime, the Council of Justice +have a right to seize his person and call him to account. In case the +governor-general dies or resigns his office, the Council of the Indies +meets and elects a successor, when they immediately write to the +directors at home, desiring them to confirm and approve their choice. +They also write to the same purpose to the states-general of the +United Provinces, who have reserved to themselves the power of +confirming or excluding a governor-general. It is usual, however, for +the directors and the state to confirm the choice of the council, and +to send him letters patent, conformable to the desire of the council; +yet there have been some instances of the directors rejecting the +governor-general thus elected, and sending out another. + +The salary allowed by the company to the governor-general is 800 +rix-dollars, with other 500 dollars for his table, and also pay the +salaries of the officers of his household. But these appointments form +a very small portion of his revenue; as the legal emoluments of his +office are so great that he is able to amass an immense fortune in +two or three years, without oppressing the people or burdening his +conscience. Being the head and apparent sovereign of all the countries +belonging to or dependent upon the company, he is allowed a court and +most of the honours usually paid to crowned heads, in compliance with +the customs of the east. When he goes from his palace to his country +seat, he is preceded by the master of his household, at the head +of six gentlemen on horseback. A trumpeter and two halberdeers on +horseback go immediately before the coach. The master of the horse and +six mounted halberdeers ride on the right; and he is followed by +other coaches carrying his friends and retinue. The whole cavalcade is +closed by a troop of forty-eight dragoons, commanded by a captain and +three quarter-masters, and preceded by a trumpeter richly clothed. If +this office be considerable for its honour, power, and emolument, +it is also very fatiguing, as the governor-general is employed from +morning to night in giving audiences, in reading letters, and in +giving orders in the service of the company; so that he seldom can +allow above half an hour for dinner, and even dispatches pressing +affairs while at table. He has also to receive all Indian princes and +ambassadors who come to Batavia, and of these many arrive every year. + +The director-general is the next in authority after the +governor-general, and is the second person in the council of the +Indies. This employment requires great care and attention, as he has +the charge of buying and selling all the commodities that enter into +or go out from the Company's warehouses. He gives orders for the kinds +and quantities of all goods sent to Holland or elsewhere, keeps the +keys of all the magazines, and every officer in the service of the +Company makes a report to him daily of every thing committed to their +charge. He has the supreme direction of every thing relative to the +trade and commerce of the Company, both at Batavia and all other +places; and the members of all the factories belonging to the Company +are accountable to him for their conduct. + +The third person in the government is the Major-general, who has the +command of all the forces under the governor-general. The number of +regular troops in the service of the Company throughout the Indies may +be about 12,000 men, exclusive of the militia, which amount to about +100,000 more, and are well disciplined, and always called out in time +of danger. The entire military and naval strength of the Company by +land and sea is about 25,000 men, including officers, soldiers, +and sailors. For the support of its commerce, the Company keeps +in constant employment about 180 ships, of from 30 to 60 pieces of +cannon, and in cases of emergency are able at any time to fit out +forty of the largest size. + +The ecclesiastical government at Batavia, or consistory, consists of +eleven persons; viz. the five ministers of the two Dutch churches in +the city, and that in the citadel, besides the minister who resides +in the island of _Ourust_, together with the three ministers of the +Portuguese churches, and the two belonging to the Malay church. These +last five are all Dutchmen-born, though they preach in the Portuguese +and Malay languages. As it is deemed necessary that the state should +be informed of all that passes among their clergy, the eleventh person +is nominated by the government, whose especial business is to see +that they do nothing contrary to the laws or to the regulations of the +Company. Besides these, the consistory also consists of eight elders +and twenty deacons. One principal branch of business confided to the +consistory, is to provide ministers for the subordinate governments; +where they are relieved after a certain term of years, and either +return to Batavia or to Holland, to enjoy the fruits of their labours. +Our author relates that one of these ministers went home in the same +ship with him, who had made such good use of his time, that he bought +a _noble fief_ on his return, and became a man of quality. In +the smaller places belonging to the Company, where there are no +established ministers, an itinerant is sent once in three or four +years, to marry, baptize, and dispense the communion; which is +necessary, since the synods do not permit the propagation of any other +except the reformed religion in the territories of the Company. + +For a long time the Lutherans have solicited for permission to have a +church in Batavia, but have constantly been refused, though certainly +a just and reasonable demand, especially in a place where Mahomedans +and Pagans are freely tolerated in the exercise of their religion, +and where the Chinese are even permitted to worship the devil. +This ecclesiastical consistory has also dependent upon it all the +schoolmasters, consolators of the sick, and catechists. Of these last +there are many in the service of the Company in their ships; their +duty being to say prayers every day, and to instruct such as embrace +the Christian religion; and as they are mostly natives, and speak +several languages, they are the better able to give instructions, and +to teach the confession of faith to so many different nations. Such +as are converted are baptized and receive the communion; and, for the +better preservation of uniformity in doctrine, an annual visitation of +all the new converts is made by the ministers. In consequence of +these regulations, the reformed religion has made amazing progress, +especially among the blacks, of whom our author says he has seen 150 +at a time present themselves to receive baptism. This however is not +rashly granted, as all who receive it must be well instructed, and be +able to make their confession of faith. The Chinese are well known +to be so obstinately addicted to their great Confucius, as not to be +easily induced to embrace any other religion; yet some even of them +from time to time have abjured their idolatry, and embraced the +protestant faith. Yet our author seems to doubt their sincerity, +alleging that the Chinese are seldom sincere in any thing; and he +tells us, that a Chinese, on renouncing idolatry; said he was about to +embrace the religion of the Company. + +The country around Batavia is extremely beautiful, and it may be said +that nature and art seem to strive which shall have the greatest share +in adorning it. The air is sweet and mild, the land extremely fertile, +and the face of the country finely diversified with hills and vallies, +all laid out in regular plantations, beautiful canals, and whatever +can contribute to render the country pleasant and agreeable. The +island of Java is about 300 leagues in circumference, divided into +several kingdoms and principalities, all dependent upon the emperor +who resides at _Kattasura_, except the kings of Bantam and Japara,[2] +who do not acknowledge his authority. The country produces in +abundance all the necessaries of life, as also great quantities of +those valuable productions which form its commerce. It is interspersed +by many mountains, rivers, and woods, to all of which nature has +bestowed her treasures with a bountiful hand. There are gold-mines in +some parts of the country, and for some years the government caused +the mountains of _Parang_ to be wrought, in hopes of reaping profit; +but, after expending a million, the marcasites were found not to +be fully ripened.[3] Those who directed this enterprise were much +censured, and the works have been long discontinued. Some are +thoroughly satisfied that the natives find considerable quantities +of gold in several places, which they carefully conceal from the +knowledge of the Dutch. During the last war in Java, which continued +from 1716 to 1721, the inhabitants of some parts of the country were +so often plundered that they were reduced to absolute beggary; yet, +after a year's peace, they were observed to have grown excessively +rich, having plenty of gold, both in dust and ingots. + +[Footnote 2: There is some strange error here, which we do not presume +to correct or explain. In the former section, the king of _Japara_ is +said to reside chiefly at _Kattasura_, which in the present instance +is said to be the residence of the emperor. In an after division of +this collection, more ample and distinct accounts will be found of +this rich island, now subject to Britain.--E.] + +[Footnote 3: In plain English, the mineral, or ore, was so poor as not +to defray the expence of extracting the metal.--E.] + +The mountains of Java are very high, so that many of them can be seen +at the distance of thirty or forty leagues. That which is called the +_Blue Mountain_ is by far the highest, being seen from the greatest +distance at sea. Java is subject to frequent and terrible earthquakes, +which the inhabitants believe are caused by the mountain of Parang, +which is full of sulphur, salt-petre, and bitumen, which take fire by +their intestine commotions, causing a prodigious struggle within the +bowels of the earth, whence proceeds the earthquake; and they assert +that it is common, after an earthquake, to see a vast cloud of smoke +hanging over the top of that mountain. About thirty years before +Roggewein was in Batavia, Mynheer Ribeck, then governor-general, went +with many attendants to the top of this mountain, where he perceived +a large cavity, into which he caused a man to be let down, to examine +the inside. On his return, this man reported that the mountain was +all hollow within, that he heard a most frightful noise of torrents of +water on every side, that he here and there saw flames bursting out, +so that he was afraid of going far, from apprehension of either being +stifled by the noxious vapours, or falling into one of the chasms. The +waters in the neighbourhood of this mountain are unwholesome, and even +those in the neighbourhood of Batavia are impregnated with sulphur, +those who drink much of them being liable to several disorders, +particularly the dysentery. But when boiled, their water is entirely +freed from the sulphur, and does no manner of harm, though drank +copiously. + +The fruits and plants of Java are excellent and numberless. Among +these the cocoa-nut tree is by far the most valuable, as besides +its fruit already described, the bark makes a kind of hemp which is +manufactured into good ropes and cables; the timber serves to build +houses and ships, and the leaves serve to cover the former. It is said +that the father of a family in this country causes a cocoa-nut tree +to be planted at the birth of each of his children, by which each may +always know his own age, as this tree has a circle rising yearly on +its stem, so that its age may be known by counting these circles: and +when any one asks a father the ages of his children, he sends them to +look at his cocoa trees. + +There are numerous woods or forests in different parts of the +island, in which are abundance of wild beasts, as buffaloes, tigers, +rhinoceroses, and wild horses. These also abound in serpents, some +of which are of prodigious size. Crocodiles are numerous and large in +this island, being mostly found about the mouths of the rivers; and, +being amphibious animals, delight much in marshes and savannahs. Like +the tortoise, this creature deposits its eggs in the hot sands, +taking no farther care of them, and the sun hatches them in the proper +season, when they immediately betake themselves to the water. A short +time before the arrival of Roggewein at Batavia, a crocodile was +taken in the mouth of the river to the east of the city, upwards of +thirty-three feet long, and proportionally large. They have fowls of +all kinds, and exquisitely good; particularly peacocks, partridges, +pheasants, and wood-pigeons. The Indian bat is a great curiosity, +differing little in form from ours, but its extended wings measure a +full yard, and its body is as large as a rat. + +There are great numbers of excellent fish of different sorts to be had +in the adjoining sea, and so plentiful and cheap that as much may be +bought for three-pence as will dine six or seven men. Tortoises or +sea-turtle also are abundant, their flesh resembling veal, and there +are many persons who think it much better. The flat country round +Batavia abounds in all kinds of provisions; and to prevent all danger +of scarcity, vessels belonging to the Company are continually employed +in bringing provisions, spiceries, and all other necessaries, from the +most distant parts of the island, together with indigo, rice, pepper, +cardamoms, coffee, and the like. In the magazines and store-houses, +there are always vast quantities of rich and valuable commodities, not +of Java only, but of all parts of India, ready to be transported to +other parts of the Company's dominions, in the ships which return +annually to Holland. + +The homeward-bound ships sail five times every year from Batavia. The +first fleet sails in July, generally consisting of four or five sail, +which touch on their way at the island of Ceylon. The second, of six +or seven vessels, sails in September. The third usually consists +of from sixteen to twenty ships, and leaves Batavia in October. The +fourth, of four or five vessels, sails in January. And the fifth, +being only a single ship, generally sails in March, but not till the +arrival of the fleet from China which brings the tea, of which the +principal part of the cargo of this ship consists, wherefore it is +usually called the _tea-ship_: The common people call it also the +_book-ship_ as it carries home the current account of the whole year, +by which the Company is enabled to judge of the state of its trade +in India. It is to be observed that these ships, laden with the rich +commodities of many countries, all sail from this single port of +Batavia; the ships from Mokha which carry coffee, being the only +vessels in the service of the Dutch East India Company that are +allowed to proceed directly home without going to Batavia. + + + +SECTION IX. + +_Description of Ceylon._ + +The next best government belonging to the Dutch East India Company, +after Batavia, is that of the island of Ceylon. The governor of this +island is generally a member of the council of the Indies, and has +a council appointed to assist him, framed after the model of that in +Batavia, only that the members are not quite such great men. Though +the governor of Ceylon be dependent upon the Council of the Indies at +Batavia, he is at liberty to write directly to the directors of +the Company in Holland, without asking permission from the +governor-general, or being obliged to give any account of his conduct +in so doing. This singular privilege has had bad effects, having even +tempted some governors of Ceylon to endeavour to withdraw themselves +from their obedience to the Company, in order to become absolute +sovereigns of the island. There have been many examples of this kind, +but it may be sufficient to mention the two last, owing to the +tyranny of two successive governors, Vuist and Versluys, which made a +considerable noise in Europe. + +When Mr Rumpf left the government of Ceylon, his immediate successor, +Mr Vuist, began to act the tyrant towards all who were not so +fortunate as to be in his good graces, persecuting both Europeans and +natives. Having from the beginning formed the project of rendering +himself an independent sovereign, he pursued his plan steadily, by +such methods as seemed best calculated to insure success. He thought +it necessary in the first place to rid himself of the richest persons +in the island, and of all having the reputation of wisdom, experience, +and penetration. In order to save appearances, and to play the +villain with an air of justice, he thought it necessary to trump up a +pretended plot, and caused informations to be preferred against such +persons as he intended to ruin, charging them with having entered into +a conspiracy to betray the principal fortresses of the island into the +hands of some foreign power. This scheme secured him in two ways, as +it seemed to manifest his great zeal for the interest of the Company, +and enabled him to convict those he hated of high treason, and to +deprive them at once of life and fortune. To manage this the more +easily, he contrived to change the members of his council, into +which he brought creatures of his own, on whose acquiescence in his +iniquities he could depend upon. The confiscations of the estates and +effects of a number of innocent persons whom he had murdered by these +false judicial proceedings, gave him the means of obliging many, and +gained him numerous dependants. + +Vuist was born in India of Dutch parents, and had a strong natural +capacity which had been improved by assiduous application to his +studies. His dark brow, and morose air, shewed the cruelty of his +disposition: Yet he loved and protected the Indians, either from a +natural disposition, or because he deemed them fit instruments to +forward his designs. In order to gain the natives in his interest, he +preferred them to many vacant offices under his government, in direct +opposition to repeated instructions from the Company, to bestow the +principal offices on Dutchmen or other Europeans. After carrying on +his designs with much dexterity, and having acquired by gifts a vast +number of dependants, ready to support his purposes, some of the +faithful servants of the Company sent such clear and distinct +information of his proceedings to Holland, as sufficiently evinced his +real intentions, in spite of all his arts to conceal them. At length +the Company sent out Mr Versluys to supersede him in the government +of Ceylon, with orders to send him prisoner to Batavia. As soon as he +arrived there, abundance of informations were preferred against him, +for a variety of crimes both of a private and public nature, into +all of which the council of justice made strict inquisition, and were +furnished with abundant proofs of his guilt. In the end, he freely +confessed that he had caused nineteen innocent persons to be put to +death, having put them all to the torture, extorting from all of them +confessions of crimes which they had never even dreamt of committing. +He was accordingly sentenced to be broken alive on the wheel, his body +to be quartered, and his quarters burnt to ashes and thrown into the +sea. + +Such was the deserved end of the traitor and tyrant Vuist; yet +Versluys, who was sent expressly to amend what the other had done +amiss, and to make the people forget the excesses of his predecessor +by a mild and gentle administration, acted perhaps even worse than +Vuist. Versluys was by no means of a cruel disposition, wherefore, +strictly speaking, he shed no blood, yet acted as despotically and +tyrannically as the other, though with more subtilty and under a +fairer appearance. His great point was not the absolute possession of +the country, but to possess himself of all that it contained of value. +For this purpose, immediately on getting possession of the government, +he raised the price of rice, the bread of the country, to so +extravagant a height that the people in a short time were unable +to purchase it, and were soon reduced to beggary and a starving +condition. Their humble representations of the great and general +misery which reigned among all ranks of people throughout the island +made no impression on his avaricious disposition; but all things went +on from bad to worse, till an account of his nefarious conduct was +transmitted to Holland. When informed of the distressed situation of +the inhabitants of Ceylon, the States-general sent out Mr Doembourgh +as governor, with orders to repair all past errors, and to treat the +natives with all possible tenderness and indulgence. On his arrival, +Versluys, after beggaring the whole nation, took it into his head that +they would defend him against his masters, and absolutely refused to +resign the government; and had even the insolency to fire upon +the Company's ships as they lay at anchor in the road of Columbo. +Doembourgh, however, immediately landed, and his authority was readily +recognised by all the Company's servants, and submitted to by the +people. He caused Versluys to be immediately arrested and sent to +Batavia, where a long criminal process was instituted against him, but +which was not concluded when our author left India. + +Of all the Asiatic islands, Ceylon is perhaps the fairest and most +fertile. It lies to the S.E. of the peninsula of India on this side of +the Ganges, between the latitudes of 5 deg. 30' and 9 deg. N. and between +the longitudes of 79 deg. 45' and 82 deg. 12' E. so that it extends 70 marine +leagues from N. to S. and 49 leagues from E. to W. It is so fertile +and delicious, that many have believed it to have been the seat of the +terrestrial paradise; and the natives certainly believe this, for they +pretend to shew the tomb of Adam, and the print of his foot on the +mountain named the Peak of Adam,[1] one of the highest mountains +in the world. On another mountain there is a salt-lake, which the +inhabitants affirm was filled by the tears shed by Eve, while she wept +incessantly an hundred years for the death of Abel. + +[Footnote 1: This gross absurdity is not worth contesting; but the +fact is, that the real natives, the idolaters of the interior, refer +both the tomb and the footmark to their false god, or lawgiver, +Bodh.--E.] + +The principal places in Ceylon are Jafnapatam, Trinkamaly, Baracola, +Punta de Galla, Columbo, Negombo, Sitavaca, and Candy. The Dutch East +India Company are possessed of all the coasts of the island, and ten +or twelve leagues within the land, and most of the before-mentioned +towns, except the two last. While the Portuguese had possession, they +built abundance of forts for their security, so that the Dutch found +it a difficult matter to dislodge them; but having contracted a secret +treaty with the king of Candy, the Portuguese were attacked on all +sides, by sea and land, and were driven by degrees out of all their +possessions. Since then, the Dutch have taken much pains to cultivate +a good understanding with that native sovereign, from whom they have +obtained almost every thing they demanded. They send every year an +ambassador to him with various presents; in return for which his +Candian majesty sends to the company a casket of jewels, of such value +that the ship which carries it home is reckoned to be worth half the +fleet. + +Punta de Galle and Columbo are the two principal places in the +island, the latter being the residence of the governor, and the other, +properly speaking, is only the port of that city. Though extremely +hot, the air of Ceylon is reckoned healthy, and the country abounds +with excellent fruits of many kinds. The sea and the rivers afford +plenty of various kinds of fish. There are also on the land great +abundance of fowls, both wild and tame, and many wild animals, +particularly elephants that are larger than any other country in Asia, +also tygers, bears, civet cats, monkeys, and others. _Cinnamon_ is the +production for which this island is peculiarly famous, as that which +is procured here is estimated far superior to any other. The Dutch +East India Company have the entire monopoly not only of this, but of +all the other spices, with which they supply all parts of the world. +Cinnamon is the inner bark of a tree resembling the orange, the +flowers of which very much resemble those of the laurel both in size +and figure. There are three sorts of cinnamon. The finest is taken +from young trees; a coarser sort from the old ones; and the third is +the _wild cinnamon_, or cassia, which grows not only in Ceylon, but +in Malabar and China, and of late years in Brazil. The company also +derives great profit from an essential oil drawn from cinnamon, which +sells at a high price; and it also makes considerable gain by the +precious stones found in this island, being rubies, white and blue +sapphires, topazes, and others. + +Off the coast of this island, at Manaar and Tutecorin, there is a fine +pearl fishery, which brings in a large revenue, being let twice a-year +in farm to certain black merchants. The oysters are at the bottom of +the sea, and the fishery is only carried on in fine weather, when the +sea is perfectly calm. The diver has one end of a rope fastened round +his body below the arm-pits, the other end being tied to the boat, +having a large stone tied to his feet, that he may descend the +quicker, and a bag tied round his waist to receive the oysters. As +soon as he gets to the bottom of the sea, he takes up as many oysters +as are within his reach, putting them as fast as possible into the +bag; and in order to ascend, pulls strongly at a cord, different from +that which is round his body, as a signal for those in the boat to +haul him up as fast as they can, while he endeavours so shake loose +the stone at his feet. When the boats are filled with oysters, the +black merchants carry them to different places on the coast, selling +them at so much the hundred; which trade is hazardous for the +purchasers, who sometimes find pearls of great value, and sometimes +none at all, or those only of small value. + +The inhabitants of Ceylon are called _Cingolesians_, or Cingalese, who +are mostly very tall, of a very dark complexion, with very large ears, +owing to the numerous large and heavy ornaments they wear in them. +They are men of great courage, and live in a hardy manner, and +are therefore excellent soldiers. They are, for the most part, +Mahomedans,[2] though there are many idolaters among them who worship +cows and calves. The inhabitants of the interior do not greatly +respect the Dutch, whom they term their _coast-keepers_, in derision; +but the Dutch care little about this, endeavouring to keep in good +correspondence with the king of Candy, whose dominions are separated +from theirs by a large rapid river, and by impenetrable forests. The +Ceylonese are remarkable for their great skill in taming elephants, +which they employ as beasts of burden in time of peace, and render +serviceable against their enemies in war. + +[Footnote 2: The author has probably confounded the original natives +of Ceylon, who are idolaters, with the Malays, who are Mahomedans, and +of whom a considerable number are settled on the coast country.--E.] + + + +SECTION X. + +_Some Account of the Governments of Amboina, Banda, Macasser, the +Moluccas, Mallacca, and the Cape of Good Hope._ + +The third government under the East India Company is that of Amboina, +one of the Molucca islands, which was formerly the seat of the +governor-general till the building of Batavia, when it was transferred +there on account of its advantageous situation, in the centre of the +company's trade and settlements, while Amboina lay too far to the +east. The island of Java also is vastly more fertile than Amboina, +producing all the necessaries of life in abundance, so that it has +no dependence for provisions on any other country, while they had +provisions to search for in all other places, at the time when the +government was established at Amboina. This island is one of the +largest of the Moluccas, being situated in the _Archipelago of St +Lazarus_, in lat. 3 40' S. and long. 128 deg. 30' E. 21 deg. 30' or 430 marine +leagues east from Batavia. It was conquered in 1519 by the Portuguese, +who built a fort there to keep the inhabitants under subjection, and +to facilitate the conquest of all the adjacent islands. This fort was +taken by the Dutch in 1605, but they did not entirely reduce the whole +island of Amboina and the neighbouring islands till 1627, by which +conquest they acquired entire possession of the clove trade, whence +these islands are termed the _gold-mine_ of the company, owing to the +vast profit they draw from them, and it is so far superior to +other gold-mines, that there is no fear of these islands being ever +exhausted of that commodity. A pound weight of cloves or nutmegs, for +the company has the entire monopoly of both, does not in fact cost the +company much more than a half-penny, and every one knows at what rate +the spices are sold in Europe. Amboina is the centre of all this rich +commerce; and to keep it more effectually in the hands of the company, +all the clove-trees in the other islands are grubbed up and destroyed; +and sometimes, when the harvest is very large at Amboina, a part even +of its superfluous produce is burnt. + +This valuable spice grows only in Amboina and the other five Molucca +islands, and in the islands of Meao, Cinomo, Cabel, and Marigoran. The +Indians call cloves _calafoor_, while the inhabitants of the Moluccas +call them _chinke_. The clove-tree is much like the laurel, but its +leaves are narrower, resembling those of the almond and willow. Even +the wood and leaves taste almost as strong as the cloves themselves. +These trees bear a great quantity of branches and flowers, and each +flower produces a single clove. The flowers are at first white, then +green, and at last grow red and pretty hard, and are properly the +cloves. While green, their smell is sweet and comfortable, beyond all +other flowers. When ripe, the cloves are of a yellow colour, but +after being gathered and dried, they assume a smoky and black hue. In +gathering, they tie a rope round each bough, and strip off the whole +of its produce by force, which violence injures the tree for the next +year, but it bears more than ever in the following season. Others beat +the trees with long poles, as we do walnut-trees, when the cloves fall +down on cloths spread on the ground to receive them. The trees +bear more fruit than leaves, the fruit hanging from the trees like +cherries. Such cloves as are sold in the Indies are delivered just as +procured from the trees, mixed with their stalks, and with dust and +dirt; but such as are to be transported to Holland are carefully +cleaned and freed from the stalks. If left ungathered on the tree, +they grow large and thick, and are then termed _mother-cloves_, which +the Javanese value more than the others, but the Dutch prefer the +ordinary cloves. + +No care is ever taken in propagating or planting clove-trees, as the +cloves which fall to the ground produce them in abundance, and the +rains make them grow so fast that they give fruit in eight years, +continuing to bear for more than an hundred years after. Some are of +opinion that the clove-tree does not thrive close to the sea, nor when +too far removed; but seamen who have been on the island assert that +they are found everywhere, on the mountains, in the vallies, and +quite near the sea. They ripen from the latter end of August to the +beginning of January. Nothing whatever grows below or near these +trees, neither grass, herb, or weed, as their heat draws all the +moisture and nourishment of the soil to themselves. Such is the hot +nature of cloves, that when a sackful of them is laid over a vessel +of water, some of the water is very soon wasted, but the cloves are no +way injured. When a pitcher of water is left in a room in which cloves +are cleaned, all the water is consumed in two days, although even the +cloves have been removed. Cloves are preserved in sugar, forming an +extraordinary good confection. They are also pickled. Many Indian +women chew cloves to give them a sweet breath. A very sweet-smelling +water is distilled from green cloves, which is excellent for +strengthening the eyes, by putting a drop or two into the eyes. Powder +of cloves laid upon the head cures the headache; and used inwardly, +increases urine, helps digestion, and is good against a diarrhoea, and +drank in milk, procures sleep. + +A few days after the cloves are gathered, they are collected together +and dried before the fire in bundles, by which operation they lose +their natural beautiful red colour, changing into a deep purple or +black. This is perhaps partly owing to their being sprinkled with +water, which is said to be necessary for preventing worms from getting +into them. Those persons who are sent for this commodity in the +company's ships, practise a fraud of this nature, in order to conceal +their thefts: For, having abstracted a certain quantity or proportion +from the cloves received on board, they place two or three hogsheads +of sea-water among those remaining, which is all sucked up in a few +days by the cloves, which that recover their former weight. By this +contrivance, the captain and merchant or supercargo agreeing +together, find a way to cheat the company out of part of this valuable +commodity. Yet this fraud, though easy and expeditious, is extremely +dangerous as when detected it is invariably punished with death, +and the company never want spies. Owing to this, cloves are commonly +enough called galgen kruid, or gallows-spice, as frequently bringing +men to an ill end. + +The king of Amboina has a pension from the company, and a guard of +European soldiers, maintained at its expence. The inhabitants of the +island are of middle stature, and of black complexions, being all +extremely lazy and given to thieving; yet some of them are very +ingenious, and have a singular art of working up the cloves while +green into a variety of curious toys, as small ships or houses, +crowns, and such like, which are annually sent to Europe as presents, +and are much esteemed. Those of the Amboinese who acknowledge the +authority of the king are Mahomedans, but there are many idolaters who +live in the mountains, and maintain their independence, considering +themselves as free men, but the king and the Hollanders reckon them +savages; and as they are guilty of frequent robberies and murders, +they are always reduced to slavery when caught, and are treated with +the utmost rigour, and employed in the hardest labour. On this +account a most excessive hatred subsists between them and the other +inhabitants of the island, with whom they are perpetually at war, +and to whom they hardly ever give quarter. Their arms are bucklers; +swords, and javelins or pikes. + +The garrison kept in the fort of Amboina is numerous, and constantly +maintained in excellent order, being composed of the best troops in +the company's service. The fort is so strong, both by nature and +art, as to be reckoned impregnable, and so effectually commands the +harbour, that no vessel can possibly go in or out without being sunk +by its cannon. Although the rich commerce in cloves might make a +sufficient return to the company for the charges of this island, yet +of late years coffee has been ordered to be cultivated here, and +is likely to turn out to advantage. While this island was under +the government of Mr Barnard, it was discovered that considerable +quantities of gold-dust were washed down by the torrents in some parts +of the mountains, and by tracing up the auriferous streams to their +sources, the mine has at last been found. Amboina also produces a red +kind of wood, which is both beautiful and durable, and is naturally +embellished in its grain with abundance of curious figures. Of this +wood they make tables, cabinets, writing-desks, and other beautiful +pieces of furniture, which are sent as presents to the principal +persons in the government, the rest being sold at extravagant prices +all over India. + +The fourth government under the company is _Banda_, an island about +fifty leagues from Amboina towards the east, and to the southward +of the Moluccas. The governor, who is generally an eminent merchant, +resides at _Nera_, the capital of the country, and has several other +neighbouring islands under his jurisdiction, in the government of +all which he is assisted by a council, as at Amboina. In some +representations sent home, and published by the company, this island +is set forth as being very expensive to the company, and so thinly +inhabited as to take off very little goods, while it is so barren as +to require large supplies of provisions. All this is pure artifice; +for, though Banda is a very small island in comparison with Amboina, +being only about twelve leagues in circumference, it certainly affords +as great profits, which arise from the important commerce in nutmegs, +which grow here in such prodigious quantities as to enable the Dutch +company to supply all the markets in Europe. + +This admirable and much-valued fruit grows in no other part of the +world except Banda and a few other small islands in its neighbourhood, +named Orattan, Guimanasa, Wayer, Pulo-wai, and Pulo-rion. The +nutmeg-tree is much like a peach-tree, but the leaves are shorter and +rounder. The fruit is at first covered by two skins or shells, the +outer one being tough and as thick as one's finger, which falls off +when the fruit ripens. This outer rind when candied has a fine taste +and flavour. When this falls off, the next is a fine smooth skin or +peel, which is the mace, or flower of the nutmeg; and below this is a +harder and blackish shell, much like that of a walnut; and on opening +this shell, the nutmeg is found within, being the kernel. The mace is +at first of a fine scarlet colour; but, when ripe, it falls off the +shell, and is then of an orange colour, as it comes to Europe. They +preserve whole nutmegs in sugar, which make the best sweetmeat in +India. The Bandanese call nutmegs _palla_, and mace _buaa-palla_. +There are two sorts of nutmegs; the one being of a long shape, called +males, and the other round and reddish, called females, which latter +have better taste and flavour than the other. When gathered and the +mace carefully preserved, the shells are removed and the nutmegs +dried, being first thrown among quicklime, as otherwise worms would +breed in and destroy them. + +There are several islands in the neighbourhood of Banda in which the +nutmeg-trees grow, but these are carefully destroyed every year, which +at first sight may seem extraordinary, as, if once destroyed, one +would imagine they would never grow again. But they are annually +carried by birds to these islands. Some persons allege that the birds +disgorge them undigested, while others assert that they pass through +in the ordinary manner, still retaining their vegetative power. This +bird resembles a cuckoo, and is called the nutmeg-gardener by the +Dutch, who prohibit their subjects from killing any of them on pain +of death. The nutmeg is a sovereign remedy for strengthening the +brain and memory, for warming the stomach, sweetening the breath, +and promoting urine; it is also good against flatulence, diarrhoea, +head-ach, pain of the stomach, heat of the liver, and amenorrhoea. +Oil of nutmegs is a powerful cordial. Mace is an effectual remedy +for weakness of the stomach, helps digestion, expels bad humours, +and cures flatulence. A plaister of mace and nutmegs in powder, +and diluted with rose-water, greatly strengthens the stomach. Being +peculiar to Banda, merchants from Java, Malucca, China, and all parts +of the Indies, come to Nera and the other towns of Banda to purchase +mace and nutmegs; and immediately on their arrival, they all purchase +wives to keep house for them and dress their victuals during their +stay, which is usually two or three months, and when they go away +again, they give liberty to these temporary wives to go where they +please. + +The island of Banda is very hilly, yet fertile, the government +among the natives being a kind of commonwealth, administered by the +Mahomedan priests, who are very strict and severe. The population +of the whole island may be about 12,000 persons of all ages, of whom +about 4000 are fighting men. It is so well fortified as to be deemed +impregnable, yet there is always a numerous squadron of small vessels +on the coast for farther security. The garrison is numerous, but in +a worse condition than those of any other garrison, belonging to the +company, owing to the scarcity of victuals, as the island is of a +barren sandy soil,[1] wherefore the soldiers eat dogs, cats, and +any other animal they can find. For six months of the year they have +tolerable abundance of turtle or sea-tortoises, and after this they +are glad to get a little sorry fish, now and then. Their bread is made +from the juice of a tree, which resembles the grounds of beer when +first drawn, but grows as hard as a stone when dried: Yet, when put +into water, it swells and ferments, and so becomes fit to eat, at +least in this country, where nothing else is to be had.[2] Butter, +rice, dried fish, and other provisions, are all imported from Batavia, +and are much too dear to be purchased by the soldiers, at least in any +great plenty. Thus the inhabitants are none of the happiest; but, to +do them justice, they live fully as well as they deserve, as there is +not an honest man on the island. + +[Footnote 1: This is contradictory, having been before described as +hilly, yet fertile.--E.] + +[Footnote 2: This account of the matter is not easily understood, and +seems to want confirmation. Perhaps it is an ignorant or perverted +report of sago: Yet there may possibly be some tree or plant affording +a considerable quantity of fecula or starch by expression.--E.] + +According to the Dutch, the original natives of this island were so +cruel, perfidious and intractable, that they were forced to root them +out in a great measure for their own security, and to send a Dutch +colony to occupy the island: But such a colony as has not much mended +the matter, being entirely composed of a rascally good-for-nothing +people, who were either content to come, or were sentenced to be sent +here, almost to starve, not being able to live elsewhere. Their misery +at this place does not continue long, as they are usually soon carried +off by the dry gripes or twisting of the guts, which is the endemic, +or peculiar disease of the country. Hence, and because wild young +fellows are sometimes sent here by their relations, the Dutch at +Batavia usually call this _Verbeetering Island_, or the Island of +Correction. + +Macasser, or the island of Celebes, is considered as the fourth best +government after Batavia. This island lies between Borneo and the +Moluccas, 260 leagues or 13 deg. E. from Batavia. It is a singularly +irregular island, consisting in a manner of four long peninsular +processes, two projecting eastwards, and two towards the south, +reaching from lat. 1 deg. 30' N. to 5 deg. 45' S. and from long. 119 deg. to 125 deg. +20', both E. It is called, and with great reason, the key of the spice +islands, and the form of its government is much the same as in the +other islands, consisting of a governor and council. Since the Dutch +conquered these islands from the Portuguese, they have carefully +fortified the sea-coast, and have always a very numerous garrison +in the fort of Macasser, where the governor resides; which is +particularly necessary, as the island is very populous, and the +natives are beyond comparison the bravest and best soldiers in India. +This nation long gave inexpressible trouble to the Dutch, but was at +length, subdued, and stands now in as much awe of the company as any +other nation: But, till very lately, the expences of the troops at +this place were so large, that the company derived very little gain +from the conquest, although the slave-trade here is very profitable. + +Before the last Macasser war, which ended in the entire subjugation of +the prince of this country, he was able to procure great quantities +of mace, nutmegs, and cloves, which he sold to the English and other +nations, at much more reasonable rates than they could procure them +from the Dutch. For which reason the Dutch were at great pains and +expence to reduce this island to entire subjection, that it might +become the bulwark of the Moluccas, and secure their monopoly of the +spice-trade: But, for similar reasons, the other European powers ought +to have supported the king of Macasser in his independence. The +island of Celebes is very fertile, and produces abundance of rice, and +articles of great value in the Indies. The inhabitants are of middle +stature, and have yellow complexions, with good features, and are of +brisk and active dispositions: But are naturally thieves, traitors, +and murderers to such a degree, that it is not safe for an European to +venture beyond the walls of the fort after dark, or to travel at any +time far into the country, lest he be robbed and murdered. Yet many of +the natives live under the protection of the Dutch forts, being +free burgesses, who carry on considerable trade. There are also a +considerable number of Chinese residents, who sail from hence in +vessels of their own to all parts of the company's dominions, and who +acquire immense wealth by means of extensive commerce. + +The inland country is under the dominion of three different princes, +who, fortunately for the Dutch, are in continual opposition to each +other; for, if united, they might easily drive the Dutch from the +island. One of these princes is styled the _Company's King_, as +he lives in good correspondence with the Dutch, and promotes their +interest as far as he can. On this account the Dutch make him presents +of considerable value from time to time, such as gold chains, golden +coronets set with precious stones, and the like, in order to keep him +steady in his allegiance, and to prevent him from uniting with the +other two princes of the island. Some little time before the arrival +of Roggewein at Batavia, a rich gold-mine was discovered in Celebes, +to which a director and a great number of workmen were sent from +Batavia; but how far this has been attended with success, our author +was unable to say. + +_Ternate_ is the fifth government at the disposal of the company, and +the farthest east of all belonging to the Dutch dominions in India, so +that it is a kind of frontier. The governor is always a merchant, and +has a council, like all the others already mentioned. This is one of +the largest of the Molucca islands, and the king of Ternate is the +most valuable of all the allies of the company; as, although his +island would abound in cloves, he causes them to be rooted out +annually, for which the company allows him a pension of eighteen +or twenty thousand rix dollars yearly. He has likewise a numerous +life-guard, with a very strong fort well garrisoned, all at the +expence of the company. The kings of Tidore and Bachian are his +tributaries. Ternate is very fertile, and abounds in all sorts of +provisions, and in every thing that can contribute to the ease and +happiness of life, yet its commerce is of no great importance, hardly +amounting to as much as is necessary to defray the charges of the +government. It was at this time, however, expected to turn out to +better account, as a rich gold-mine had been recently discovered. The +natives are a middle-sized people, strong and active, more faithful +than their neighbours, and better affected towards the Europeans. In +religion they are mostly Mahometans or Pagans; but of late many of +them had become Christians, chiefly occasioned by their king having +declared himself of that religion, a point of great consequence +towards the conversion of the people. The inhabitants of Ternate +make a species of palm wine, called _Seggeweer_, which is excessively +strong. There are here many most beautiful birds, having feathers +of all sorts of colours, charmingly diversified, which are sent to +Batavia, where they are sold at high prices on account of their beauty +and docility, as they may be taught to sing finely, and to imitate the +human voice. Many Birds-of-Paradise are also brought from this island. +There are several sorts of these birds. The most common kind is +yellow, having small bodies, about eight inches long exclusive of the +tail, which is half a yard long, and sometimes more. The second kind +is red, the third blue, and the fourth black. These last are the +most beautiful and most in request, being called the King of the +Birds-of-Paradise. This kind has a crown or tuft of feathers on the +top of its head, which lies flat or is raised up at pleasure. In this +they resemble the _cadocus_ or cockatoo, a bird entirely white, with a +yellow crown on its head. + +The sixth government is Malacca, which city is the capital of a +small kingdom of the same name, inhabited by Malayans or Malays. The +governor here is a merchant, and is assisted by a council like all the +others. This kingdom of Malacca is the south part of the peninsula of +India beyond the Ganges, being divided from the island of Sumatra by +a strait, named the strait of Malacca. This city is of considerable +size, and carries on an extensive commerce, for which it is admirably +situated, and is the storehouse or emporium of all that part of India. +It is also the rendezvous of all the homeward-bound ships from Japan, +which make at this place a distribution of their merchandise into +various assortments, which are sent from hence to all the settlements +of the company in India. It is however subject to the great +inconvenience of scarcity of provisions, having nothing of that kind +except various sorts of fish. The princes of the adjacent countries +and their subjects are all notorious pirates, and give much +disturbance to the trade of India; but are particularly inimical to +the Dutch company, and omit no opportunity of doing all the evil +in their power to its subjects. These people suffered formerly some +severe reverses from the Portuguese, who were formerly established +here, and since from their successors the Dutch, which has gradually +reduced their power, so that they are now much less able to carry +on their depredations. The natives of Malacca are of a very dark +complexion, but brisk and active, and greatly addicted to thieving. +Some are idolaters but they are mostly Mahometans. + +When the Portuguese were masters of Malacca, they had no less than +three churches and a chapel within the fortress, and one on the +outside. That which is now used for worship by the Dutch stands +conspicuously on the top of a hill, and may be seen for a great +distance up or down the straits. It has a flag-staff on the top of its +steeple, where a flag is always displayed on seeing a ship. The fort +is large and strong. A third part of its walls is washed by the sea: +A deep, narrow, and rapid river covers its western side; and all the +rest is secured by a broad, deep ditch. The governor's house is both +beautiful and convenient, and there are several other good houses, +both in the fort and the town. But, owing to the shallowness of the +sea at this place, ships are obliged to ride above a league off, +which is a great inconvenience, as the fort is of no use to defend the +roads. The straits here are not above four leagues broad, and though +the opposite coast of Sumatra is very low, it may easily be seen in +a clear day: Hence the sea here is always quite smooth, except +in squalls of wind, which are generally accompanied with thunder, +lightning, and rain. These squalls, though violent, seldom last more +than an hour. + +The country of Malacca produces nothing for exportation, except a +little tin and elephants teeth; but has several excellent fruits and +roots for the use of its inhabitants, and the refreshment of strangers +who navigate this way. The pine-apples of Malacca are esteemed the +best in the world, as they never offend the stomach; while those of +other places, if eaten in the smallest excess, are apt to occasion +surfeits. The _mangostein_ is a delicious fruit, almost in the shape +of an apple. Its skin is thick and red, and when dried is an excellent +astringent. The kernels, if they may be so called, are like cloves of +garlic, of a most agreeable taste, but very cold. The _rambostan_ is +a fruit about the size of a walnut, with a tough skin beset with +capillaments,[3] and the pulp within is very savoury. + +[Footnote 3: This uncommon word is explained by Johnson, as "small +threads or hairs growing in the middle of flowers, adorned with little +knobs."--Here it may be supposed to mean that the fruit is hairy.--E.] + +There is a high mountain to the N.E. of Malacca, whence several rivers +descend, that of Malacca being one of them, and all these have small +quantities of gold in their channels. The inland inhabitants, called +_Monacaboes_, are a barbarous and savage people, whose chief delight +is in doing injury to their neighbours. On this account, the peasantry +about Malacca sow no grain, except in inclosures defended by thickset +prickly hedges or deep ditches: For, when the grain is ripe in the +open plains, the Monacaboes never fail to set it on fire. These inland +natives are much whiter than the Malays of the lower country; and the +king of Johor, whose subjects they are or ought to be, has never been +able to civilize them. + +When the Dutch finally attempted to conquer Malacca from the +Portuguese, in alliance with the king of Johor, and besieged it both +by sea and land, they found it too strong to be reduced by force, and +thought it would be tedious to reduce it by famine. Hearing that the +Portuguese governor was a sordid, avaricious wretch, much hated by the +garrison, they tampered with him by letters, offering him mountains of +gold to betray his trust, and at length struck a bargain with him for +80,000 dollars, and to convey him to Batavia. Having in consequence of +his treachery got into the fort, where they gave no quarter to any one +found in arms, they dispatched the governor himself, to save payment +of the promised bribe. + +The seventh government bestowed by the company is that of the Cape of +Good Hope. The governor here is always one of the counsellors of the +Indies, and has a council to assist him. This colony was taken from +the Portuguese by the Dutch in 1653, and is justly esteemed one of the +most important places in the hands of the company, though the profits +derived from it are not comparable to what they derive from some of +the islands in the East Indies. Formerly things were still worse, as +the revenues of this settlement fell short of its expences. Yet the +company could hardly carry on the trade to India, were it not in +possession of this place, as here only the ships can meet with water +and other refreshments on the outward and homeward-bound voyages; and +these are indispensably necessary, especially for such ships as are +distressed with the scurvy. This place so abounds in all sorts of +provisions, that there never is any scarcity, notwithstanding the vast +yearly demand, and all ships putting in here are supplied at moderate +rates. These refreshments consist of beef, mutton, fowls, fruit, +vegetables, wine, and every thing, in short, that is necessary, either +for recovering the sick on shore, or recruiting the sea-stores for +the continuance of the voyage out or home. In the space of a year, at +least forty outward-bound ships touch here from Holland alone, and +in these there cannot be less than eight or nine thousand people. The +homeward-bound Dutch ships are not less than thirty-six yearly, in +which there are about three thousand persons; not to mention +foreign vessels, which likewise put in here, and have all kinds of +refreshments furnished to them at reasonable rates. There are almost +always some ships in this road, except in the months of May, June, and +July, when the wind usually blows with great violence at N.W. and then +the road is very dangerous. + + + +SECTION XI. + +_Account of the Directories of Coromandel, Surat, Bengal, and Persia._ + +Having now given a short view of the governments in the disposal of +the Dutch East-India Company, which are a kind of principalities, as +each governor, with the advice and assistance of his council, is a +kind of sovereign, and acts without controul through the whole extent +of his jurisdiction, we are now to consider the other establishments +of the company in India, for carrying on this extensive trade. In all +the countries where their affairs require it, they have factories, in +each of which there is a chief, with some title or other, having also +a council to assist him in regard to matters of policy or trade. Among +these, the directories of Coromandel, Surat, Bengal, and Persia are +all of great importance, and the direction of them is attended with +great profit. The directors have the same power with the governors, +within their respective jurisdictions; only that they cannot execute +any criminal sentences within the countries in which they reside, so +that all criminals are executed on board ship, under the flag of the +company. + +The directory of Coromandel is the first of the four, and has all the +forts and factories belonging to the Dutch on that coast under +his jurisdiction. Besides Negapatnam, on the southernmost point of +Coromandel, and the fort of _Gueldria_, in which the director resides, +they have factories at Guenepatnam, Sadraspatnam, Masulipatnam, +Pelicol, Datskorom, Benlispatnam, Nagernauty, and Golconda. The Dutch +director is a principal merchant, and if he discharges his office with +reputation, he is commonly in a few years promoted to be one of +the counsellors of the Indies. It is not uncommon for a governor +or director in the Indies, in the space of a few years, to amass a +fortune equal to the original capital of the company, or six millions +and a half of guilders, or nearly L600,000 sterling. + +Formerly, the country of Coromandel was divided into a great number of +principalities, and the little princes and chiefs imposed such heavy +duties, and gave such interruptions to trade in other respects, as +rendered the company very uneasy. But after the war of Golconda, which +cost the company a great deal of money, yet ended to their advantage, +these princes grow more tractable. At present, the kings of Bisnagar +and Hassinga,[1] who are the most powerful in Coromandel, live in +tolerably good terms with the Dutch and other European nations; the +English and Danes having also a share in Coromandel, with several good +fortresses for the protection of their trade. + +[Footnote 1: This seems to be a misprint for Narsinga, otherwise the +Carnatic.--E.] + +The great trade carried on here is in cotton goods, as muslins, +chintzes, and the like; in exchange for which the Dutch bring them +spices, Japan copper, steel, gold-dust, sandal and _siampan_ woods. +In this country, the inhabitants are some Pagans, some Mahomedans, and +not a few Christians. The country is very fertile in rice, fruits, +and herbs, and in every thing necessary to the support of man; but +the weather is exceedingly hot during the eastern monsoon. All the +manufactures of this country, purchased by the Dutch, are transported +first to Batavia, whence they are sent home to Holland, and are thence +distributed through all Germany and the north of Europe. + +The second and third directories are established at Hoogly on the +Ganges, and at Surat on the western coast of India, both in the +territories of the Great Mogul, and the two most important places +of trade in all Asia. The Dutch, English, French, and other European +natives trade to both, and have erected forts and magazines for their +security and convenience. The best part of the trade is carried on by +black merchants, who deal in all sorts of rich goods; such as opium, +diamonds, rich stuffs, and all kinds of cotton cloths. The empire of +the Great Mogul is of prodigious extent, and the countries under his +dominion are esteemed the richest in the world. The air is tolerably +pure, yet malignant fevers are common, generally attacking strangers +as a kind of seasoning sickness, in which, if the patient escape the +third day, he generally recovers. + +Most of the inhabitants of this country are tall black robust men, of +gay and lively dispositions. In point of religion, many of them are +idolaters, more of them Mahometans,[2] and some of them Christians. +The idolaters are split into numerous sects, some of whom believe +firmly in the metempsychosis, or transmigration of souls; for which +reason they will not take away the life of any living creature, not +even daring to kill a fly or a flea. They have even hospitals for +worn-out oxen and old cows, where they are fed and attended till they +die of age or disease. These people are in general very industrious, +but covetous, false, and perfidious. They employ themselves, such as +reside in towns, in the manufactures of silk and cotton; and those +who live in the country are very diligent cultivators, so that they +annually expect from hence vast quantities of grain to Batavia. + +[Footnote 2: This is an obvious mistake, as by far the greater part of +the population is idolatrous.--E.] + +The Great Mogul is one of the richest and most powerful princes in the +world, having a most magnificent court, and a numerous army always +on foot. The directors at Bengal and Surat know perfectly well how +to deal with him, and, by making shewy presents, procure valuable +diamonds and other precious stones in return. Surat is a town of no +great antiquity, yet very large and immensely rich. It is in compass +about five miles within the walls, and is computed to contain about +200,000 inhabitants. The Moorish and even the Indian merchants +here are many of them prodigiously rich. The former chiefly addict +themselves to the diamond trade, which is very precarious; for +sometimes a small stock produces an immense fortune, while at other +times, a man wastes immense sums without finding stones of any great +value: For, at the diamond-mines, the adventurers purchase so many +yards square at a certain price, employing slaves to dig and lift the +earth, taking whatever stones are found in that spot; which sometimes +are of great value, and sometimes so few and small as not to pay +costs. Other Moorish merchants deal largely in foreign trade, and +as the Mogul is a very easy master, some of them acquire prodigious +wealth, and carry on commerce to such an extent as can scarce be +credited in Europe. About twenty years ago, [that is, about the year +1700,] there died a Moorish merchant at Surat, who used yearly to +fit out twenty sail of ships, from three to eight hundred tons, the +cargoes of each of which were in value from ten to twenty thousand +pounds, and who always retained goods in his warehouses equal in +value to what he sent away. The customs of Surat amount every year to +upwards of L. 160,000 sterling, and, as the merchants pay three per +cent. at a medium, the value of the goods must exceed five millions +yearly. + +The fourth and last factory under a director, is that of Gambroon or +Bendar-abassi on the coast of Persia. The director here is always a +principal merchant, having a council and a fiscal to assist him. As +this city stands on the Persian gulf or sea of Basora, being the only +port of Persia on the Indian sea, and lies at a great distance from +Batavia, this direction is not so much sought after as others; and +besides, the heat at this place is greater than in any part of the +world, and the air is excessively unwholesome. To balance these +inconveniences, the director at Gambroon has an opportunity of making +a vast fortune in a short time, so that in general, in four or five +years, he has no farther occasion to concern himself in commerce. +There are several other European nations settled here besides the +Dutch, but they have by far the best factory, and have fortified it so +effectually, that the inhabitants of the neighbouring mountains, who +are a crew of bold and barbarous robbers, have never been able to gain +possession of it, though they have made frequent attempts. The king +of Persia, who reigned about 1722, came sometimes to Gambroon, and +distinguished the Dutch above the other European nations by many marks +of his favour, and by the grant of many privileges. Some time before +that period, he sent a gold saddle very richly wrought, and adorned +with precious stones, a present to the governor of Batavia, desiring +in return an European habit for himself and another for his queen. + +Gambroon is a disagreeable place to live in, as in August it is +unbearably hot; and yet the winter is so cold that they wear English +cloth lined with furs. They have here beeves, sheep, goats, poultry, +and fish, all good of their kinds, and tolerably cheap. They have also +grapes, melons, and mangoes in the utmost perfection, and excellent +wine, which is esteemed superior to that of all other countries, +insomuch that it still preserves its flavour after being diluted with +four times its quantity of water. At the time when our author was in +India, intestine wars raged to such a degree in Persia, that a ship +had to be constantly stationed at Gambroon to bring off the factory, +in case of danger. Another inconvenience to the trade on this +coast proceeded from the multitude of pirates on those seas, mostly +Europeans, who, having run away with the ships of their owners, +subsisted by robbing all nations. Among these at this time was a stout +ship named the Hare, which had been sent from Batavia to Persia: But +the crew mutinied, and forced their officers to turn pirates. After +committing many depredations on this coast, they sailed to the +Red-Sea, where they attacked and plundered many Arabian pirates. At +length, being short of provisions, and not daring to put into any +port, they resolved to return; and finding themselves also in want +of water, they resolved to supply themselves at an island. With this +view, most of them crowded into the pinnace and put off from the ship, +which gave an opportunity to the officers to resume their authority; +wherefore they cut the cable, and brought the ship into the harbour +of Gambroon, by which means the ship and cargo were restored to the +Company. + +In 1701, the Ballorches, who rebelled against the Shah, attempted +to make themselves masters of the English and Dutch factories at +Gambroon, with a body of four thousand men, but were beat off at both +places; but a warehouse belonging to the Dutch, at some distance from +the factory, fell into their hands, in which were goods to the value +of twenty thousand pounds. A short time afterwards, the famous rebel +_Meriweys_ made himself master of Ispahan, where he plundered both the +English and Dutch factories, taking from the former goods to the value +of half a million, and from the latter to the value of two hundred +thousand pounds. + + + +SECTION XII. + +_Account of the Commanderies of Malabar, Gallo, Java, and Bantam._ + +In such subordinate places as were not thought of sufficient +consequence to require a governor or director, the Dutch East India +Company has established another principal officer, with the title of +chief or commander. If the person entrusted with this authority be a +merchant, he is accountable for his conduct to the civil government, +but if a captain, to the military establishment. A chief or commander, +in conjunction with his council, has nearly the same authority with +a governor, except that he cannot execute any capital judgment on +criminals, till the case has been reviewed and confirmed by the +council at Batavia. + +At the time when our author was in India, the commander at the fort of +Cochin on the Malabar coast, was Captain Julius de Golints, a native +of Mecklenburg, from whom he received great civilities. Malabar was +the first country discovered by the Portuguese in India, and in which +they established themselves, not without great effusion of blood, nor +were they many years in possession till they were driven out by the +Dutch. These conquerors, in their turn, found it very difficult to +support themselves against the natives, who attacked them with great +spirit and success, and had infallibly driven them out of the country, +but for the courage and conduct of Major John Bergman, who preserved +their establishments with much difficulty. + +Though very warm, the climate of Malabar is very healthy, and the soil +is fertile in rice, fruit, and all sorts of herbs. It is divided into +many principalities, among which the following are reckoned kingdoms; +Cananore, Calicut, Cranganore, Cochin, Calicoulan, Porcaloulang, and +Travancore. As the capital of the Dutch possessions in Malabar was the +city of Cochin, it may be proper to describe this little kingdom as +at that period. It reaches from _Chitway_ in the north, and extends +twenty-four leagues to the southwards along the coast, being divided +into a multitude of small islands by the streams which descend from +the mountains of _Gatti_, [the Gauts.] These rivers have two great +or principal mouths, one at Cranganore in the north, and the other at +Cochin, in the south, distant thirty marine leagues from each other. +The Portuguese were the first European nation who settled here, where +they built a fine city on the river about three leagues from the sea; +but the sea has since so gained on the land, that it is now not above +an hundred paces from the city. This place is so pleasantly situated, +that the Portuguese had a common saying, "That China was a good place +to get money in, and Cochin a pleasant place to spend it at." The +great number of islands formed by the rivers and canals, make fishing +and fowling very amusing; and the mountains, which are at no great +distance, are well stored with wild game. On the island of _Baypin_ +[Vaypen], there stands an old fort called _Pallapore_, for the purpose +of inspecting all boats that pass between Cranganore and Cochin: +And five leagues up the rivulets, there is a Romish church called +_Varapoli_ [Virapell], served by French and Italian priests, and at +which the bishop takes up his residence when he visits this part of +the country. The _padre_, or superior priest at Virapell can raise +four thousand men on occasion, all Christians of the church of Rome; +but there are many more Christians of the church of St Thomas, who do +not communicate with the Romanists.[1] About two leagues farther +up than Virapell, towards the mountains, there is a place called +_Firdalgo_,[2] on the side of a small but deep river, where the +inhabitants of Cochin annually resort in the hot months of April and +May to refresh themselves. The banks and bottom of the river here are +clean sand, and the water is so clear that a small pebble stone may be +seen at the bottom, in three fathoms water. + +[Footnote 1: A very interesting account of the remnant of an ancient +Christian church in the Travancore country, a little to the southward +of Cochin, has been lately published by Dr Buchanan, in a work named +Christian Researches in India, which will be noticed more particularly +in an after division of our Collection.--E.] + +[Footnote 2: Perhaps Bardello, about the distance mentioned in the +text.--E.] + +All the water along this low flat coast, to the south of Cranganore, +has the very bad quality of occasioning swelled legs to those who +drink it. This disease sometimes only affects one leg, but sometimes +both, and the swelling is often so great as to measure a yard round at +the ancles. It occasions no pain, but great itching, neither does +the swelled leg feel any heavier than that which occasionally remains +unaffected. To avoid this disease, the Dutch who reside at Cochin, +send boats daily to Virapell, from which they bring water in small +casks of about ten or twelve gallons, to serve the city. This water is +given free to the servants of the Company, but private persons have to +pay six-pence for each cask-full, which is brought to their houses +at that price. Still, however, both Dutch men and women are sometimes +afflicted with this disease, and no means have hitherto been found +out for prevention or cure. The old legend imputes this disease to the +curse laid by St Thomas upon his murderers and their posterity, as +an odious mark to distinguish them: But St Thomas was slain by the +_Tilnigue_[3] priests at Miliapoor in Coromandel, above four hundred +miles from this coast; and the natives there have no touch of this +malady. + +[Footnote 3: This word ought assuredly to have been Telinga.--E.] + +Cochin is washed by the greatest outlet on this coast, and being +near the sea, its situation is strong by nature, but art has not been +wanting to strengthen it. As built by the Portugueze, it was a mile +and a half long by a mile in breadth. The Dutch took it in 1662, when +Heitloff van Chowz was commander of the forces by sea and land. The +insolence of the Portuguese had made several of the neighbouring +princes their enemies, who joined with the Dutch to drive them out of +that country, and the king of Cochin in particular assisted them with +twenty thousand men. Not long after the Dutch had invested the town, +Van Chowz received notice of a peace having been concluded between +Portugal and Holland, but kept the secret to himself and pushed on the +siege. Having made a breach in the weakest part of the fortifications, +he proceeded to a furious assault, which was kept up for eight days +and nights incessantly, relieving the assailants every three hours, +while the Portuguese were kept on continual duty the whole time, and +were quite worn out with fatigue. Finding the city in danger of being +taken by storm, the Portuguese at length capitulated and gave up the +place. There were at this time four hundred topasses in the garrison, +who had done good service to the Portuguese, but were not comprehended +in the capitulation. On discovering this omission, and knowing the +cruel and licentious character of the Dutch soldiery in India, they +drew up close to the gate at which the Portuguese were to march out, +and the Dutch to enter, declaring, unless they had equally favourable +terms granted them with the Portugueze, they would massacre them all, +and set fire to the town. The Dutch general not only granted them all +they asked, but even offered to take those who had a mind into the +Dutch pay, to which many of them assented. The very day after the +surrender, a frigate came from Goa, with the articles of peace, and +the Portuguese loudly complained of having been unfairly dealt with by +Van Chowz; but he answered, that the Portuguese had acted in the same +manner with the Dutch, only a few years before, in the capture of +Pernambuco in Brazil. The English had at that time a factory in +Cochin, but the Dutch ordered them immediately to remove with all +their effects, which they accordingly did to their factory at Paniany. + +On gaining possession of Cochin, the Dutch thought it too extensive, +and therefore contracted it to the size it is now, being hardly a +tenth part of what it was before. It measures about 600 paces long, +by 200 in breadth, and is fortified with seven large bastions and +intermediate curtains, all the ramparts being so thick that they are +planted with double rows of trees, to give shade in the hot season. +Some of the streets built by the Portuguese still remain, together +with a church, which is now used for the Dutch worship, the cathedral +being converted into a warehouse. The house of the commandant is the +only one built in the Dutch fashion, which is so near the river that +the water washes some part of its walls. The flag-staff is placed on +the steeple of the old cathedral, on a mast seventy-five feet high, +above which is the staff, other sixty feet in length, so that the flag +may be seen above seven leagues off at sea. The garrison of Cochin +usually consists of three hundred men; and from Cape Comoras upwards, +in all their forts and factories, they have five hundred soldiers, +and an hundred seamen, all Europeans, besides some topasses and the +militia. They procure their store of rice from Barcelore, because the +Malabar rice will not keep above three months out of the husk, +though it will keep twelve with the husk on. This part of the country +produces great quantities of pepper, but it is lighter than that which +grows more to the northwards. The forests in the interior affords good +teak-wood for ship-building, and two woods, called _angelique_ and +_prospect_, which make beautiful chests and cabinets, which are sent +all over the coasts of western India. They have also iron and steel +in plenty, and bees-wax for exportation. The sea and the rivers afford +abundance of excellent fish of various kinds, which are sold very +cheap. + +_Cranganore_, a little to the north of Cochin, stands upon a river +about a league from the sea, and at this place the Dutch have a +fort. This place is remarkable for having formerly been the seat of a +_Jewish government_, and that nation was once so numerous here as to +consist of 40,000 families, though now reduced to 4000. They have a +synagogue about two miles from the city of Cochin, not far from the +palace of the rajah, and in it they carefully preserve their records, +engraven upon plates of copper in the Hebrew language; and when any +of the characters decay, they are cut anew, so that they still possess +their history down from the reign of Nebuchadnezzar to the present +day. About the year 1695, _Mynheer van Reede_ had an abstract of this +history translated from Hebrew into the Dutch language. They assert +themselves to be of the tribe of Manasseh, a part of which was sent +by Nebuchadnezzar to the most easterly province of his large empire, +which is alleged to have reached Cape Comorin. Twenty thousand of them +travelled from Babylon to this place in three years, and were civilly +and hospitably treated by the inhabitants of Malabar, who allowed +them liberty of conscience in religion, and the free exercise of their +reason and industry in the management of their secular affairs. Having +increased in numbers and riches, they at length, by policy or wealth, +became masters of the small kingdom of Cranganore: And a particular +family among them being much esteemed for wisdom and riches, two of +that family were chosen by their elders and senators to govern the +commonwealth, and to reign jointly over them. At length one of the +brothers invited his colleague to a feast, at which he basely killed +him, thinking to reign alone; but a son of the deceased slew the +fratricide, after which the state fell into a democracy, which still +continues among the Jews here. Their lands have, however, reverted for +many years into the hands of the Malabars, and poverty and oppression +have occasioned many of them to apostatise. + +Between Cranganore and Cochin there is an island called Baypin, +[Vaypen] four leagues long, but in no part above two miles broad. +The Dutch do not allow any vessels or boats to enter or go out at +Cranganore, obliging all to use the river of Cochin, which is a +quarter of a mile broad, and very deep, but has a bar on which there +is no more than fourteen feet water at spring-tides. The inhabitants +of this country are mostly idolaters, over whom the bramins or +priests exercise great authority, which they much abuse, of which +the following abominable custom is a strong instance. When any man +marries, he is prohibited from bedding with his wife the first night, +which function is performed in his stead by one of the bramins, or, if +none of these be at hand, by some other man. Foreigners used formerly +to be often employed on these occasions, as the Malabars made choice +of them instead of their own countrymen, often making large presents +to the substitutes, sometimes to the value of forty or fifty pounds. +But of late the bramins have become so very religious, that they +never fail to execute this duty themselves. Besides this, the bramins +frequent the company of the women so much, that no one of their +religion can pretend to know his own father with any certainty. For +which reason, by the laws of this country, sons or daughters never +inherit from the husbands of their mothers, but the heritage always +goes, to nephews and nieces, by sisters of the deceased born of the +same mother, as certainly of his blood. This rule is observed also +in the order of succession in their royal families, and is a glaring +proof of the strange effects of boundless superstition.[4] + +[Footnote 4: This strange custom has been differently related +formerly, and we believe more accurately, as prevalent only in the +Nayra tribe, in which the women are allowed several husbands at the +same time, and may change them at pleasure.--E.] + +The next commandery is _Gallo_, or Point de Galle, on the island of +Ceylon, at the distance of about twenty leagues from Columbo, the +Dutch capital of that island. Gallo was the first place in Ceylon +taken from the Portuguese by the Dutch, and still is a place of +considerable trade. The commander at this place is entirely +dependent upon the governor of Ceylon, and can do nothing without his +approbation. About the year 1672, Lewis XIV. sent out a squadron of +eight frigates, with orders to make themselves master of this place, +this project having been proposed to the court of France by one +Mynheer Jan Martin, who had served the Dutch East India Company for +many years, and had quitted their service on some disgust. When +the royal orders came to be opened at sea, Martin found that the +government was to be vested in another person, in case the place were +taken, on which he took such measures as frustrated the object of the +expedition. Mynheer van Cosse, who then commanded the Dutch fleet, +soon arrived on the coast, and the French retired without venturing +an engagement. They went to _Trankamala_, or _Trinconomalee_, and +anchored in the bay of that name, meaning to force the garrison of +that small fort to surrender: But Van Cosse soon followed them, and +brought them to action while disadvantageously situated in the bay, +and either sank or burnt half of the French fleet. The rest fled to +St Thomas, on the coast of Coromandel, intending to have formed a +settlement there; but Van Cosse again followed them to that place and +seized all their ships, many of their guns having been carried ashore, +as were at this time a great number of their officers and men. The +French who were on shore capitulated with the Dutch to quit India, on +being allowed shipping to carry them home, which Van Cosse agreed to, +giving them his flag-ship, the _Groote Britanye_, and two others, for +that purpose. Martin was detained and carried to Batavia, where he was +confined for life on an allowance of a rix-dollar a-day. + +The next commandery is that of Samarang, on the island of Java, and +he who commands here has the direction of all the factories in that +island, except those which depend immediately on the government of +Batavia. _Kuttasura_, which is the residence of the emperor of Java, +is within his jurisdiction. In the year 1704, a war broke out in Java +between the brother and son of the deceased emperor, as competitors +for the succession, which lasted twenty years. The Dutch sided with +the former, but the affections of the natives were with the latter, +who drew over to his party a great number of the native soldiers who +had served under the Dutch, and who, being well disciplined, behaved +gallantly on all occasions, and gave the Dutch much trouble. + +At _Bantam_, on the same island, the Dutch have a strong fort with a +numerous garrison, to keep the people in awe, who are very mutinous, +and far from being well affected to the Dutch government. The king, +or rajah of Bantam, has also a fort only a few hundred paces from that +belonging to the Dutch, in which be keeps a numerous garrison for the +security of his person. The only commodity of this part of the country +is pepper, of which they are able to export 10,000 tons yearly. The +king is obliged to supply the company with a certain quantity of +pepper yearly; but in all other respects they treat him kindly enough. +His dominions are extensive and well peopled, and his subjects are +hardy and enterprising, but perfidious and revengeful, and mortally +hate all Christians. The bay of Bantam is safe and pleasant, having +many islands, which still retain the names given them by the English, +who had a fine factory here, from which they were expelled in 1683. +The territory of Bantam is very fertile, abounding in rice, pepper, +fruits, and cattle. In the interior of the country the natives +sometimes find precious stones of great value, of which however the +Dutch rarely get possession, as the people fear they might be +induced to extend their conquests, by which they are already greatly +oppressed. The head of the factory at this place has the title of +chief. + +Another Dutch chief resides at _Padang_, on that part of the coast of +Sumatra which is called the _gold-coast_. This chief has a council +and fiscal like all the rest, and his post is considered as both +honourable and profitable. Sumatra is a very large fine island, +separated from the continent of Asia by the Straits of Malacca, +and from the island of Java by the Straits of Sunda, and is justly +esteemed one of the richest and noblest islands in all India. The +Dutch have a factory at Palambaugan, about eight leagues from the sea, +on the banks of a very large river, which empties itself into the +sea by four different channels. The great trade of this part of the +country is in pepper, which the Dutch company wish to monopolize, as +they have done cloves, nutmegs, mace, and cinnamon; and are at great +expence in keeping several armed barks cruising at the mouths of this +river, to prevent what they are pleased to call smuggling. It must +be allowed, however, that they have a contract with the king of this +country to take all the pepper in his dominions, at the rate of ten +dollars the bahar of 400 pounds weight, which is a fair price.[5] They +have, however, a clause in the contract, by which half the price is to +be paid in cloth, at such rates as greatly reduce the cost. + +[Footnote 5: Exactly five farthings and two-fifths of a farthing the +pound.--E.] + +The interior of the island is very mountainous, but most of the +mountains abound in mines of gold, silver, lead, and other metals. The +company possesses some mines of gold, said to be very rich, and great +care is taken to secure and conceal the profits. Gold-dust is found +in great quantities in all the rivers and rivulets of the country, +especially when the western monsoon reigns, when the torrents roll +down from the mountains with great rapidity. Abundance of copper +is also found here, of which they make very good cannon. There are +likewise found several sorts of precious stones. There is a burning +mountain on the island, which continually throws forth flame and +smoke, like Etna in Sicily; and there is said to be a fountain of +balsam, or petroleum. This island abounds also in spice and silk; but +the air is not very wholesome, especially to strangers, owing to the +great numbers of rivers, standing waters, and thick forests, which +every where abound. It produces no wheat, nor any other of the grains +which grow in Europe; but has plenty of rice, millet, and fruits, +which afford good and sufficient nourishment for the inhabitants. It +produces also, in great abundance, honey, bees-wax, ginger, camphor, +cassia, pepper, and many Other valuable articles. It is of great +extent, being 310 leagues long from N.W. to S.E. and about 50 leagues +across at an average. The greatest sovereign in the island is the king +of _Acheen, Atcheen_, or Achem, who resides in a city of that name +at the N.W. end of the island. It was formerly always governed by a +woman, and it is not above forty years ago since the government fell +into the hands of a man, since which several attempts have been made +to restore the old constitution. Acheen is a free port, to which the +English, Dutch, Portuguese, and Chinese resort, and in short all the +trading nations of Europe and Asia. The goods brought there are rich +brocades, silks of all kinds, muslins of all sorts, raw silk, fish, +butter, oil, and ammunition, for which the payments are mostly made in +gold, the great commodity of the country, and remarkably fine. + +During the western monsoon, the rains fall here with prodigious +violence, attended with terrible storms of thunder and lightning, and +frequent earthquakes; but the people, being used to them, are not much +alarmed. The nations are, generally speaking, Mahometans, and are very +expert in making all sorts of plate and ornaments in gold, with very +few tools, yet with such inimitable dexterity, that their workmanship +sells at a high rate all over India. The company sends a great number +of slaves to this island every year to work in their gold-mines; but +the kings in that part of the country are seldom on good terms with +the Dutch, with whom they often quarrel. The principal places where +gold is found are _Trion_ and _Manicabo_, and the way in which they +procure the gold is as follows:--They dig trenches at the bottoms of +the hills, so as to intercept the torrents which roll rapidly down +their sides in the winter months: and having drained off the water +from the ditches in summer, they find considerable quantities of +gold-dust in the mud which remains. It is generally believed that this +island furnishes annually 5000 pounds weight of gold-dust,[6] yet +very little of this quantity is ever brought to Europe, being mostly +employed by the servants of the East India Company in making purchases +of commodities in places where gold bears a high price. + +[Footnote 6: Supposing these troy pounds, the value may be estimated +at L. 240,000 sterling.--E.] + +The Dutch East India Company has long entertained a project of +building ships at this island, as its timber is so good that ships +built here are expected to last forty or fifty years, whereas those of +Europe seldom last more than twelve or thirteen years. The Dutch have +a strong fort and great factory at _Jambee_, and another at _Siack_, +both in this island. This last place is excessively unwholesome, owing +to the following circumstance, which certainly might be obviated. It +stands on the great river Andragheira, into which, at one season of +the year, there come vast shoals of large shads, a third part of +their bulk being composed of their _roes_, which are accounted a great +delicacy. Wherefore, after taking these out, the rest of the fish is +thrown away, and as these lie in great heaps to corrupt, they exhale +pestilential vapours and infect the air. The persons, therefore, who +are sent to reside at Siack, are much of the same description +with those formerly mentioned as sent to Banda, being of abandoned +characters and desperate fortunes. There is another very considerable +factory on the river Bencalis, which produces a large profit from the +sale of cloth and opium, for which gold-dust is received in payment. +This trade was discovered about forty years ago, that is, about +the year 1680, by a factor, who carried it on privately for his own +emolument for ten years, during which he acquired upwards of a _ton +of gold_ yearly, a Dutch phrase implying L. 10,000 sterling. He then +resolved to secure what he had got by making a disclosure of this +valuable branch of traffic to the company. There are also several +Dutch establishments on what is called the _West-coast_ of Sumatra. + +A very powerful and warlike people subsists in this island, known to +Europeans by the name of the _Free-nation_, who are equally averse +from submitting either to the Sumatran sovereigns or Europeans, +and have always defended themselves valiantly against both. All the +natives of Sumatra are much more inclined to the English than the +Dutch, perhaps because they are not under subjection to the former. +But the latter use every precaution they can to prevent the natives +from dealing with any except themselves. For a considerable time past, +the chiefs at Padang have been so unlucky as to have their honesty +much suspected, chiefly owing to their management of the mines, which +do not turn out greatly to the profit of the company, while all their +officers gain immense sums out of them, which the councils at Batavia +are much dissatisfied with, yet cannot prevent. For this reason they +change the chief very frequently, yet to little purpose. + + + +SECTION XIII. + +_Some Account of the Residences of Cheribon, Siam, and Mockha._ + +The chiefs of those factories belonging to the Dutch in India are +termed _Residents_, and correspond directly with the governor-general +at Batavia, and are not dependent on any subordinate governor or +director. The first of these independent residents is fixed at +_Cheribon_, on the coast of Java, at the distance of about forty +leagues from Batavia, where a very advantageous commerce is carried on +by the company in coffee, cardamoms, indigo, and cotton. The land at +this place is as fertile in rice and other provisions as perhaps any +country in the world. This district is of considerable extent, and was +formerly under the dominion of four great lords, who used to be +styled _pangerans_, but have now the titles of sultans, though their +authority is not much extended by these more splendid titles. One of +these is called the company's sultan, because always attached to the +interests of the company, though in truth they might all get the same +appellation, as they are all under the protection of the company, and +freed from apprehensions of the king of Bantam, who used formerly +to be continually at war with them, and must have reduced them under +subjection, but for the assistance of the Dutch. Since then, both from +gratitude for past favours, and in expectation of future protection, +they have granted great privileges to the company in their dominions. +The company maintains a fort at Cheribon, with a garrison of sixty +men, and has an excellent factory. + +About half a league from the fort of Cheribon, the tombs of the +princes of Cheribon stand in a vast temple, splendidly built of +various fine kinds of stone, and are said to contain vast riches, +yet are left unguarded, from an idea that they are protected by some +supernatural power; and they tell strange stories of persons having +dropt down dead, on approaching the places where these riches are +hidden, with an intention to steal. Many people believe that the +Javanese priests, who are Mahometans, have the power of causing sudden +death by means of incantations; and that they are able to enchant +crocodiles and serpents, causing the former to go into and out of the +water at command, and the latter to remain in any posture they please. +A great number of priests are maintained about this great temple, many +of whom have made the pilgrimage to Mecca, and are therefore held in +much veneration. These priests are all governed by a sovereign pontiff +or mufti, who is even more respected than the sultans. There was +formerly a considerable English factory at Cheribon, having a small +town belonging to it: But the persons of the factory so provoked the +people, by intriguing with their wives, that they rose one night and +massacred them all. Perhaps this might have been set on foot by their +Dutch neighbours. + +Another resident has the direction of the company's affairs in the +kingdom of Siam, where the company carries on a considerable trade in +tin, lead, elephants-teeth, gum-lac, _wool_,[1] and other commodities. +The king of Siam is a prince of considerable power, and his dominions +extend nearly 300 leagues. Being favourable to commerce, all nations +are allowed to trade freely in his country; but ships of no great +burden are forced to anchor at the distance of sixty leagues from his +capital; because the river _Menan_, on which it is situated, is so +rapid that they find great difficulty in getting higher up. This +river, like the Nile and many others, overflows its banks at a certain +season, so that most of the country is under water for half the year, +for which reason all the houses are built on posts. The capital is a +large city, consisting at least of 50,000 houses, with a prodigious +number of temples.[2] The natives are all pagans, and hold this +singular maxim, "That all religions are good, provided they tend to +the honour of God." They think, however, that their own is the best; +though they sometimes own that the God of the Christians is most +powerful, because the head of their principal idol has been twice +beaten to pieces by thunder. This is perhaps the largest idol in the +world, and is called by the Dutch in derision, _The great blockhead of +Lust_. He is represented sitting cross-legged like a tailor; in which +posture he measures seventy feet high, and every one of his fingers +is as large as the body of a man. About three leagues from the capital +there is a temple of vast size, having an idol not quite so large as +the other, which the priests say is his wife; and that once in seven +years, one of these goes to visit the other. The priests also pretend +that both of these idols are of solid gold; but the thunder-clap, +which destroyed the head of the larger idol detected that part of the +cheat, shewing it to be only brick and lime, very artificially gilded +all over. One may justly wonder that this accident did not put an end +to the adoration of so wretched a deity; but where superstition once +prevails the plainest proofs very seldom produce any effect. + +[Footnote 1: Perhaps cotton, often termed _cotton-wool_, ought to have +been here substituted.--E.] + +[Footnote 2: In Harris the temples are stated at 30,000.--E.] + +The country of Siam is very rich and fertile, and there is a +considerable trade carried on here by the Chinese. The Dutch have here +considerable privileges, and are the favoured nation, especially since +the great revolution, when they got into great favour with the new +king, because the English had been entrusted by his predecessor, whom +he murdered, with the best places in the government, both civil and +military. The Dutch have a factory on the side of the river, about a +mile below the city, where they collect great numbers of deer-skins; +which are sent annually to Japan. The Siamese are themselves much +addicted to trade, and the Chinese who reside here still more; so that +they send ships every year to Japan, which, considering the difficulty +of the navigation, is not a little extraordinary. The Siamese boast of +having used the compass above a thousand years before it was known +in Europe: But the Jesuits very justly observe, that the Siamese and +Chinese compasses are very imperfect. + +The third resident is fixed at _Mokha_, being always a merchant, +having two factors under him. This country is under the government +of an Arab prince, styled _Imaum_, who resides in the inland country, +about 200 miles east from Mokha. The sea-port of his dominions was +formerly Aden; but as that was found very inconvenient, he removed the +trade to Mokha, then only a fishing village. Mokha is situated close +to the sea, in a large dry sandy plain, which affords neither fruits +nor water, except what is brackish and unwholesome, and those who are +forced to drink it have long worms bred in their legs and feet, which +are very troublesome and dangerous. The town is supplied with very +good and wholesome water from _Musa_, a town at the distance of twenty +miles; but it is so dear, being brought by land carriage; that it +costs as much as small beer does in England. Mokha is large, and makes +a fine appearance from the sea, the buildings being lofty, but they +look much better without than within. The markets are well supplied +with provisions, such as beef, mutton, goats, kid, lamb, and camels +flesh, antelopes, poultry, guinea-fowls, partridges, and pigeons. The +sea affords a variety of fish, but not well tasted, owing probably +to the nature of their food. It is also furnished all the year with +excellent fruits, as grapes, peaches, apricots, and quinces, of which +they make great quantities of marmalade, both for their own use and +exportation. Yet there is neither tree nor shrub to be seen near the +town, except a few date-trees, and they seldom have above two or three +showers of rain in a year, sometimes no rain for two or three years. +Among the mountains, however, about twenty miles inland, seldom a +morning passes without a moderate shower, which makes the vallies very +fertile in such corn and fruits as suit the soil and climate. They +have plenty of wheat and barley, but no rice. + +Since Mokha has been made a free port, it has become a place of great +trade. Besides the Dutch factory, it has one belonging to the English +East-India Company. Trade is also carried on here by English free +merchants, by Portuguese, Banians, and Moors; also by vessels +from Basora, Persia, and Muskat. The country itself produces few +commodities, except coffee and some drugs, as myrrh, olibanum or +frankincense from _Cossin_, Soccotrine aloes from Soccotora, liquid +storax, white and yellow arsenic, some gum-arabic, mummy, and balm +of gilead, these two last being brought down the Red Sea. The coffee +trade brings a continual supply of gold and silver from Europe, +particularly Spanish money, German crowns, and other European silver +coins, with chequins and German and Hungarian gold ducats, and +_ebramies_ and _magrabees_ of Turkey. It is a settled point here, +though other goods may be bought and sold on credit for a certain +time, coffee must always be paid for in ready money. The European +shipping that comes here annually rather exceeds 20,000 tons, and that +belonging to other nations may amount to nearly the same tonnage. The +whole province of _Betlefackee_ is planted with coffee-trees, which +are never allowed to grow above four or five yards high. The berries +cling to the branches like so many insects, and are shaken off when +ripe. They are at first green, then red, and lastly of a dark-brown +colour. + +The Dutch have here a great advantage over all other nations, in +consequence of their monopoly of the spice-trade, as these are +consumed here in great quantities, which consequently enables them to +procure coffee at much easier rates than other nations. Yet this trade +of Mokha is continually falling off, owing to the vast quantities +of coffee produced in their own plantations, especially at Batavia, +Amboina, and the Cape of Good Hope: Even the Dutch, however, +acknowledge that there is no comparison between the coffee raised on +their own plantations and that brought from Mokha. + +The _Happy Arabia_ is divided into many small territories, under +independent princes, styled Emirs, who all pay a kind of homage, but +no obedience, to the Grand Signor or Emperor of the Turks. The Red Sea +gets this name from several parts of it being of a red colour, owing +to its bottom in these parts. + + + +SECTION XIV. + +_Of the Trade of the Dutch in Borneo and China._ + +_Borneo_ is the largest island in the East Indies, perhaps the largest +in the world, being 220 marine leagues from N. to S. and 170 leagues +from E. to W. It is divided into many small principalities, of which +the most powerful is the king of _Banjaar Masseen_, and after him the +kings of _Borneo_ and _Sambas_. The air is reckoned very unwholesome +in some places, on account of being low and marshy; and it is only +thinly peopled, though abounding in very rich commodities. On the +first establishment of the Dutch in India, they were very solicitous +to have factories in this island, and accordingly fixed three, at the +cities of Borneo, Sambas, and Succadanea; but they soon found it was +impossible to have any dealings with the natives, who certainly +are the basest, crudest, and most perfidious people in the world; +wherefore they quitted the island, and though several times invited +back, have absolutely refused to return. The commerce of Borneo is +as rich as any in India. At Sambas and Banjaar Masseen they deal in +diamonds, of which there is a mine in the interior country. These +stones generally run from four to twenty-four carats each, though some +are found as high as thirty and even forty carats; but the whole trade +does not exceed 600 carats yearly. They always sell these stones +for gold, though that is a commodity of the island, and there is a +considerable trade in gold-dust at Pahang, Saya, Calantan, Seribas, +Catra, and Melanouba. Bezoar is another principal article of their +trade. Japan wood, fine wax, incense, mastic, and several other rich +gums, are here met with; but the staple commodity is pepper, which +this island produces in as great abundance as any place in India. +A drug is met with in this island, called _piedro de porco_, or +pork-stone, so highly esteemed as to be worth 300 crowns each; as the +Indian physicians pretend that they can infallibly discover whether +their patients are to live or die, by exhibiting to them the water in +which this stone has been steeped. + +Before the Portuguese discovered the way by sea to India, the Chinese +possessed the whole trade of this island, and since the Europeans +have declined settling here, it has reverted to them again. The places +where they are settled are Banjaar Masseen, Mampua, Teya, Lando, and +Sambas, where they parry on a great trade, furnishing the inhabitants +with silks, chintz, calico, and all the manufactures of China and +Japan. It has been suggested, that a more valuable trade might be +established in Borneo than in any other part of India, as there come +here every year large fleets of Chinese junks, laden with all the +commodities of that empire, which might be purchased here as cheap, or +cheaper even than in China itself. There come also yearly some small +vessels from the island of Celebes to Borneo, in spite of the utmost +vigilance of the Dutch, which bring considerable quantities of cloves, +nutmegs, and mace, so that the Dutch are unable to sell much of these +spices to the inhabitants: Yet they send ships here frequently to load +with pepper, endeavouring to keep up a good correspondence with the +kings of Borneo and Sambas, for the king of Banjaar Masseen refuses to +have any dealings with them. + +Considering the vast sway of the Dutch in India, it is strange that +they should not have any factory in China. They have indeed formerly +sent ambassadors to that country, under pretence of demanding a free +trade, but in reality on purpose to gain a more accurate knowledge of +the nature of trade in China, and in consequence of their discoveries +in that manner, have been induced to decline entering upon any direct +trade to that country. While they were possessed of the island of +Formosa, they carried on a direct trade to China with great profit: +But, since their expulsion from that island in 1661, they have +not been able to make that trade turn out profitable. After the +establishment of the Ostend East-India Company, they tried to send +ships to China, direct from Holland; but even this came to no great +account, the profit having seldom exceeded twenty-five per cent. +which, considering the hazard of so long a voyage, was not considered +a very encouraging return. It has been doubted whether the Dutch were +able to deal with the Chinese, where both nations are upon an equal +footing, as the latter are certainly the cunningest of men: Besides, +the Chinese are less inclined to deal with the Dutch than with any +other Europeans; and, when they do, always hold them to harder terms. +The port charges also in China, and the presents they are obliged to +make, cut deep into their gains. + +Besides the foregoing circumstances, as China is at a great distance +from Batavia, and as the officers of the Dutch ships can so easily +consign their effects into the hands of the Portuguese, English, +and other foreign merchants, they have been found to mind their own +affairs much more than those of the Company. But the principal +reason of avoiding the trade to China is, that the Chinese carry on +a prodigious trade with Batavia; and though the voyage exceeds 550 +leagues, the Chinese junks make the run in six weeks, sailing from +Canton in the beginning of December, and arriving at Batavia in the +middle of January. The company has in the first place a duty of four +per cent. on all the goods brought by the Chinese, which are gold, +silks of all sorts, tea, anniseed, musk, rhubarb, copper, quicksilver, +vermilion, china ware, &c. For which they receive in exchange lead, +tin, pepper, incense, camphor, cloves, nutmegs, amber, and many +other articles, on all which the Dutch fix their own prices, and +consequently buy much cheaper than other nations can do in China. They +have also found by experience, that a direct trade greatly lessens +this more profitable mode at Batavia. They have also opportunities of +dealing with the Chinese in many other parts of India, where, after +the Chinese merchants have completed their sales to the natives, they +are glad to part with the remainder of their commodities to the Dutch, +at a cheap rate. Thus, the Dutch East-India Company are able to send +home vast quantities of the commodities of China, and purchased on +very advantageous terms, without trading directly to China, either +from Holland or from Batavia. + + + +SECTION XV. + +_Of the Dutch Trade with Japan._ + +A Dutch chief resides at Japan, who is always a principal merchant, +and is assisted by some writers in the Company's service. The profit +formerly made of this establishment by the Dutch East-India Company, +frequently amounted to 80 and even 100 per cent. but has fallen off +to such a degree, that they rarely make now, 1721, above eight or ten. +This has been chiefly occasioned by the Chinese, who for some time +past have purchased every kind of goods at Canton that are in demand +in Japan, and it is even said that they have contracted with the +Japanese to furnish them with all kinds of merchandize at as low +prices as the Dutch. Another cause of the low profits is, that the +Japanese fix the prices of all the goods they buy, and if their offer +is not accepted, they desire the merchants to take them home again. +This may possibly have been suggested to them by the Chinese, who +used formerly to be treated in the same manner at Batavia. There is no +place in all India where the Dutch have so little authority, or where +their establishments are of so little consequence, as in Japan. They +are allowed a small island to themselves, where they have warehouses +for their goods, and a few ordinary houses for the members of the +factory; but this island is a prison, in which they are completely +shut up as long as they remain in Japan, not being permitted to pass +the bridge that joins this island to the city of Naugasaque. The only +shadow of liberty that is allowed them is, that their chief, with two +or three attendants, goes once a-year as ambassador to the emperor. +One great reason of this is said to have been occasioned by their +using too great familiarities with the Japanese women; but the true +reason is, that the Dutch have more than once given strong indications +of an inclination to establish themselves in the country by force. + +A French gentleman, Monsieur Carron, who was for some time at the head +of their factory in Japan, and who, in several journeys to the +court, had ingratiated himself into the favour of the emperor, +by entertaining him with accounts of the state of Europe, got his +permission to build a house for the factory on the little island +allotted to them. He accordly laid the fortifications of great extent, +and continued the work till he had completed a handsome fortification, +in form of a regular tetragon; and as the Japanese were quite ignorant +in the art of fortification, they suffered it to be finished, without +any suspicion of deceit. Carron now desired the council at Batavia +to send him some cannon, packed in casks filled with oakum or cotton, +along with some other casks of the same form filled with spices. This +was done accordingly, but in rolling the casks after landing, one +of them that contained a brass gun burst open, by which accident the +cheat was discovered. This put an entire stop to all trade till the +pleasure of the emperor was known. The emperor, without prohibiting +trade, gave orders that no Dutchman should presume to stir out of the +island on pain of death, and ordered Carron up to Jeddo, to answer for +his fault. The emperor reproached him for abusing his favour; after +which he ordered his beard to be pulled out by the roots, and that +he should be led, dressed in a fool's coat and cap, through all the +streets of the city. He was thus sent back to the factory, with orders +to leave Japan in the first ship that sailed for Batavia. + +The island of _Desima_, where the Dutch reside, is divided from the +city of Naugasaki by a small creek of salt water of about forty feet +broad, over which there is a convenient bridge, having a draw-bridge +at one end, of which the Japanese keep possession, and no Dutchman can +pass this without leave from the governor of the city; neither +dare any Japanese converse with the Dutch, except the merchants and +factors, who have a licence for that purpose. For the security of the +factory, the island of Desima is pallisaded all round. It contains +four streets, with large warehouses, and a spacious market-place over +against the bridge, where at stated times the town's people have leave +to trade with the Dutch. So great is the jealousy entertained of the +Dutch, that they are not even allowed to have the command of their own +ships while in Japan: For, as soon as one of them enters the harbour, +the Japanese take entire possession of her, taking out all the arms +and ammunition, which they lay up on shore, and return again in good +order, when the ship is ready to sail. They also exact a complete +account of all the men on board, whom they muster by one of their own +commissaries. + +Japan is well peopled, and produces every thing necessary for human +sustenance in great plenty; yet the Dutch pay high for every thing +they need, and have even to purchase wood for fuel by weight. The +mountains are rich in gold, silver, and copper, which last is the best +in the world. Their porcelain is finer than that of China, as also +much thicker and heavier, with finer colours, and sells much dearer +both in India and Europe. The tea of Japan, however, is not near so +good as that of China. Their lackered ware, usually called Japan, is +the best in the world, and some of it will even hold boiling water +without being injured. They have abundance of silks, both raw and +manufactured, much stronger than what is produced in China. Their +houses are mostly built of wood, but the palace of the emperor is +of marble, covered with copper, so remarkably well gilded that it +withstands the weather many years. Jeddo is the metropolis, and its +magnitude may be guessed from this circumstance, that in a great +fire which raged in this city for eight days, about the year 1660, it +consumed 120,000 houses, and 500 temples. + +The Japanese are strict observers of moral rules, especially in +commercial matters; insomuch that merchants of reputation put up sums +of gold _cupangs_, always in decimal numbers, in silken bags, sealed +with their seals; and these bags always pass current for the several +sums indicated by the seals, without any one ever examining the +contents of the bags for several generations. These _cupangs_ are +broad oblong pieces of gold, of about twenty shillings value in Japan; +but gold is there so plentiful and cheap, in relation to silver, that +a _cupang_ passes current in Batavia for thirty-two shillings; and, +after being stampt with the lion of the Company, it passes for forty +shillings sterling. The Japanese also are exact observers of justice, +and punish crimes with extreme rigour. To a man of distinction, +when found guilty of a capital crime, the emperor writes a letter, +commanding him to become his own executioner, on an appointed day and +hour, on penalty of being subjected to the most exquisite tortures, +if he survive the appointed time. On receiving this mandate, the +delinquent invites all his friends and near relations to a sumptuous +feast on the set day. When the feast is over, he shows them the letter +from the emperor, and, while they are reading it, he stabs himself +with a dagger below the navel, and cuts open his belly to the breast +bone. The capital punishments inflicted on the inferior people are +hanging, beheading, or being flung over a precipice; and for smaller +faults, whipping and branding are usual. + +The government of Japan would be well pleased to encourage trade with +all nations, but for two considerations. The first is, lest their +religion should be insulted, which was frequently the case from +misguided zeal, while there were any Christians among the Japanese. +The other proceeds from their aversion to strange customs, or to any +innovation in the manners of the people, from which they dread the +worst consequences. When the Dutch were first established in this +empire, the then prime minister explained their opinions on this +subject in the following manner: "We are well acquainted with the +advantages resulting from the system of government established among +us, and will on no account run the hazard of any change. We know that +great revolutions are often brought about by imperceptible degrees, +and are therefore resolved to cure the itch of novelty by the rod of +chastisement." Upon this maxim a law is established in Japan, by +which all the subjects of the empire are prohibited from leaving the +country; or, if any do, they must never return. They are so wedded to +their own customs and opinions, and so jealous of the introduction +of any new or foreign customs, that they never send any embassies to +other countries, neither do they allow their merchants to carry on +commerce beyond their own country. A few small junks are sent in +summer to the land of Yedso, a country about fifty leagues from the +northern extremity of Japan; and it is said that they bring much gold +from thence. + +There is but one good harbour in Japan, all the rest of the coast +being so guarded by steep rocks or shoals, that they have no reason to +fear being invaded. In point of military discipline and bravery, the +Japanese far exceed the Chinese, and are by no means of so base and +effeminate dispositions as most of the inhabitants of that great +empire. The government also of Japan is perfectly uniform and well +settled, so that there cannot be any diversity of interests; for, +though several of its provinces are denominated kingdoms, yet all +these petty kings are under the strictest subjection to the emperor, +and the laws of the country extend over all. These laws pay the +strictest regard to private property, the father transmitting to his +children not only the patrimonial estate, but all the acquisitions of +his own industry; and this is certainly a powerful prevention of any +desire of change. Though the emperor resides at Jeddo, thirty days +journey from Naugasaki, yet he receives intelligence in the space +of three days, of the number and force of every ship that arrives, +conveyed by a chain of signal-posts, by means of flags and fire +beacons. + +The forms observed in business are wonderfully exact, and the edicts +and orders of the emperor are signified in most expressive and +dignified terms, containing very little of the bombast and swelling +style so common among oriental courts. Yet, amid all their good sense +and quick parts, the religion of the Japanese is the idlest and most +ridiculous paganism that can well be imagined, of which the following +is a sufficient proof. Every family has a tutelary deity or idol, +which is placed at the top of the house, and instructed to keep off +all sickness, misfortunes, or accidents: And when any such happen, the +idol is taken down and whipt, for not doing its duty. _Amida_ is +the name of their favourite god, his residence in heaven is at a +prodigious distance, insomuch that it requires three years journey +of a departed soul to reach paradise, which is only the outskirts or +suburbs of heaven; but when once there, the soul is sure of getting +to heaven, and enjoys a quiet residence in that place, as none of +the fiends dare come there to give annoyance. They have several other +gods, to all of whom they are particularly attached devotees; and each +god has his own particular paradise, none nearer this world than three +years journey. On purpose to gain an easy passage to these paradises, +some of the zealots cut their own throats, and others hang themselves. +Their idols are often carried in procession on horseback, attended +by bands of music; and many feasts and sacrifices are made in their +honour, the idols being fed on the smoke and flavour, while the +votaries regale on the substantial meats.[1] + +[Footnote 1: Harris here subjoins a long enquiry into the nature of +the Dutch commerce in Japan, in the form of answers to a number of +queries on the subject: But as we shall have an opportunity, in +a subsequent division of this work, to give much more ample and +satisfactory accounts of these matters, by actual travellers in Japan, +this has been omitted, as tedious and unsatisfactory.--E.] + + + +SECTION XVI. + +_Account of the Colony of the Cape of Good Hope._ + +Nothing remarkable occurred to the author of this voyage, while on the +way from Batavia to the Cape of Good Hope, except seeing the wreck of +the Schonenberg, a ship belonging to the Company, which had been lost +a little before.[2] On coming in sight of the Cape, they discovered +many French, English, and Dutch ships at anchor in the roads, some +outward-bound and some homewards. A little way from the entrance of +the bay is a small island, on which there is always a guard composed +of a serjeant and a small number of men. As soon as the serjeant sees +what number of ships a fleet consists of, he hoists a flag, and fires +so many pieces of cannon as there are ships in sight, to give notice +to the commandant at the Cape. They are here employed in making +train-oil, and in raking oyster-shells to burn into lime. Into this +island, malefactors are generally banished from the Cape, and from +most parts of India. Here, besides the punishment of being separated +from all their friends, they are kept to the hardest labour. + +[Footnote 2: This is said to have been on the coast of Africa _at the +height of Angola_, whither they were driven by a storm. But this could +not possibly have been the case _before_ reaching the Cape of Good +Hope.--E.] + +Table Bay is very fine and large, of a semi-oval form, entering +several leagues into the land, and may be about nine leagues in +circuit; but the anchorage is not every where equally good, and there +is some danger near the shore. The middle of the bay is commanded by +a very strong fort, being a regular pentagon, and each of its fine +bastions mounts twenty pieces of heavy cannon. This fort and the town +are situated on the edge of a plain about three leagues in extent, +lying at the bottom of three very high mountains. The first of these +is _Lion Mountain_, having some resemblance to a lion couchant. The +second is _Table Mountain_, which is much higher, and has a broad flat +top like a table, being so high that it may be seen twenty leagues out +at sea in clear weather. The third is called the _Devil's Mountain_, +and is not so remarkable as either of the other two. The houses of +Cape Town are very neat and commodious, but are only built two stories +high, on account of the furious winds at S.E. which sometimes blow +here. + +About the year 1650, the Dutch East-India Company bought a certain +district of this country from the Hottentots, its aboriginal +inhabitants, and took care to have it immediately planted and well +peopled, for the convenience of their ships, both outward and homeward +bound. All the inhabitants of this colony are Europeans, or descended +from Europeans. Some of the planters are settled at the distance of +three hundred leagues from the Cape; yet all are obliged to appear +once a-year at a place called Stellenbosch, where the _Drossart_ or +magistrate of the country resides. They have here to pass in review, +as all the peasants, as well as the towns-men, are formed into +companies under proper officers. After the review is over, they go +back to their respective plantations, generally carrying home with +them what tools or other European articles they stand in need of. +These people cultivate the ground, raising rye, barley, beans, and +other grains. They also plant vines, which produce excellent grapes, +of which they make very good wine. Some of these peasants are in +very easy circumstances, having, besides large and well-cultivated +plantations, great flocks of sheep and cattle. + +Among other colonists, there is one about eight leagues from Cape +Town, at a place called _Drakenstein_, entirely composed of French +refugees, who have a large tract of well cultivated ground, and are +allowed churches and ministers of their own. Part of the inhabitants +of Cape Town are in the service of the Company, and the rest are free +burgesses. They have regular magistrates, who decide causes of small +importance, and regulate any little disputes that happen among them; +but affairs of moment are carried before the governor and council, +who determine finally and without appeal. In the interior country, the +drossart determines in things of small consequence; but all matters of +importance must come before the governor and council, whose sentences, +both in civil and criminal cases, are executed without delay. The +officer who commands here in chief, has the rank and pay of major, yet +does the duty in all respects of a major-general. The officers under +him are captains, lieutenants, and ensigns, who take care to keep +their companies always complete and well disciplined; and in case of +attack, they can draw together five thousand men at least, all well +armed and as good as regular troops: Each peasant knows where he has +to repair to, in order to range himself under his proper standard. + +It is not easy to describe the expertness with which these peasants +manage their fire-arms, an exercise in which they are constantly +employed, even from their infancy; and it is almost incredible how +boldly they attack even the fiercest animals. Many among them disdain +to shoot a sleeping lion, because, as they say, it shows neither skill +nor courage: When, therefore, they discover a lion asleep, they throw +stones to waken him, and do not fire till he is on his feet. A little +before the arrival of our author at the Cape, two peasants went out +together to hunt. One of them, seeing a lion, fired at and missed him, +when the lion rushed upon the man, who threw away his gun, to have +more liberty to defend himself. The other peasant, on hearing the +report, hastened to the place, and found his companion and the lion +closely engaged; on which he snatched up the gun, and slew the lion +by a few blows on the head, but broke the gun in pieces. The first +peasant, whose property the gun was, complained loudly of its +demolition, blamed his companion for coming up uncalled for, and even +talked of making him pay for the gun, insisting that he could have +slain the lion himself without aid. It was formerly considered a +wonderful deed for a man to kill a lion; but now it is so common an +occurrence, that they make no more of killing a lion, than we do of +shooting a hare. + +The country about Cape Town is full of vineyards and gardens. Two +of these belong to the company, which are perhaps the finest in the +world. One is at the distance of two hundred paces from the fort, +between the town and Table Mountain, being about 1400 paces in length, +by 235 paces broad, and having a fine rivulet from the mountain +running through the middle of it. It is divided into quarters, in +which they cultivate, with the utmost success, the fruits and flowers +of the four quarters of the globe. The other garden is about two +leagues distant from the town, in what is called the _New Country_, +and is likewise kept in excellent order by slaves belonging to the +company, of whom there are seldom less than five hundred. The +country hereabout is mountainous and stony; but the vallies are very +agreeable, and extremely fertile. The climate is perhaps the best +in the world, neither cold nor heat being ever felt here to any +intolerable degree. The people accordingly live to great ages, and +have hardly any diseases except such as proceed from intemperance of +some kind. The mountains, which contribute to the wholesomeness of the +country, are supposed to be rich in gold and other valuable metals. +Some trials have been made; but as yet no mines have been discovered, +or at least none in such situations as would permit their being worked +to advantage. + +Mynheer van Steel, who was lately governor of this colony, travelled +over the country, and examined it with much attention. He caused +gardens to be laid out, and pleasure-houses to be built, in several +places; but the peasants who were employed in building these houses +and cultivating these gardens, sent over a representation and +complaint to the company, alleging that these works were prejudicial +to their private affairs, and prevented them from being able to +maintain their families; upon which that governor was immediately +recalled. His discoveries, however, were of great consequence, having +made the interior country known to the Dutch, together with the +nations or tribes by whom it is inhabited. These, so far as yet +discovered, consist of seven different tribes, all comprehended under +the general denomination of _Hottentots_. The first of these, and +least considerable, who live in the neighbourhood of the Cape, have +no chief, and are mostly either in the service of the company, or are +employed as servants by the townsmen, or by the peasants and farmers +in cultivating the lands, or tending their flocks and herds. The +second tribe inhabit the mountains, or, more properly speaking, +dwell in the caverns of the mountains, being thieves and robbers by +profession, and subsist entirely by plundering the other Hottentots, +with whom they are perpetually at war; yet never rob or molest the +Christians. The other tribes are called the _Great_ and _Little +Maqua_, and the _Great_ and _Little Kriqua_[2], and the _Caffres_. +The words _Maqua_ and _Kriqua_ signify king or chief, and these four +tribes are continually engaged in war against each other; but when +any one nation is in danger of being totally ruined, other tribes +immediately take up its cause; and these rude tribes seem to have a +notion of maintaining a kind of balance of power. + +[Footnote 2: These tribes are known in geography by the names of +Namaquas and Briquas, the latter being also called Booshuanas. The +second tribe in this account are named Bosjemans by the Dutch.--E.] + +Such of the Hottentots as have submitted to the Hollanders are called +the Company's Hottentots. The Dutch send every year fifty or sixty +persons to trade among the Hottentots, who purchase their cattle, +giving them in exchange arrack, tobacco, hemp, and such other things +as they have occasion for; by which means a good understanding is kept +up. These Hottentots of the Company are often attacked by the other +tribes, and, when no longer able to defend themselves, their king +or chief comes down to the Cape, attended by a small escort of his +subjects, to demand assistance. He goes immediately to the governor, +having in his hand the staff of command given him by the Company, +decorated with their arms, and holding it in his hand, demands +assistance. If the governor does not think proper to grant his +request, but endeavours to shift him off with fair words, he throws +down his staff saying, in bad Dutch, _Voor my, niet meer Compagnies +Hottentot_; that is, "For me, I will no more be the Company's +Hottentot." The governor generally sends him home with an escort of +troops, as it is the interest of the company to be on good terms with +these chiefs, who are always ready to do any service required of them. + +The Hottentots are a very stupid and brutal people. They rub their +bodies all over with rancid grease, which gives them a very bad smell, +so that you may nose them at a considerable distance. Their children +are all born perfectly white; but being constantly rubbed with grease, +and exposed to the sun, they grow by degrees quite brown, and almost +black. When a woman brings forth twins, one of them is immediately +condemned to death, and is tied to a tree, where it is left to expire. +Some of them have a custom of extirpating one testicle in their male +children, as soon as they are able to bear the operation, in hope of +preventing them afterwards from begetting twins. They seem to have +little or no religion; yet they frequently look with admiration at the +heavenly bodies, saying, "He who governs these is certainly a being of +infinite power and wisdom." In many respects they are more like beasts +than men, being abominably nasty in their persons, and, taking them +altogether, they are certainly one of the meanest nations on the face +of the earth. They are short and thick-set, with flat noses like a +Dutch pug dog, very thick lips, and large mouths, having very white +teeth, but very long and ill set, some of them sticking out of their +mouths like boar's tusks. Their hair is black, and curled like +wool. They are very nimble, and run with incredible speed. They are +generally covered with a sheep's skin, each man having a quiver full +of arrows on his back, and a bow in his hand. Immediately on coming in +sight of an enemy, they set up a dreadful cry, leaping, dancing, +and skipping about, and throwing themselves into the most frightful +postures. + +The seventh nation is named the _Caffres_, who are certainly the +_Anthropophagi_ who have made so much noise in the world[3]. The +Hottentots are much afraid of them, and take care to keep out of their +way as much as possible, for fear of being roasted or boiled if taken +prisoners. This abominable nation has never entered into any kind +of commerce with the Christians; but, on the contrary, takes all the +pains they can to entrap and murder them, in order, as is generally +believed, to eat them. It is reported that they have grown somewhat +more tractable of late years, and will enter into some sort of trade +with such as venture among them. They are a potent and warlike nation, +strong and well-made; and though black, and having curled hair +like other negroes, they have better faces, and a much more manly +appearance. + +[Footnote 3: A very different account is now given of the Caffres, +or Koussis rather, who are described as a half-civilized race, who +cultivate the ground, and live under regular government.--E.] + +At the distance of about eighteen leagues from the Cape, there is +another port called Saldanha Bay, which is, in all respects, an +infinitely better harbour than Table Bay, except in wanting fresh +water, which prevents it from being frequented. The animals of this +country are many. The lion is common here, and in hard winters often +comes very near the habitations of the colonists. He is reputed the +king of beasts, because he never eats a man till he has beaten out his +breath with his paws. Before attacking a man he roars terribly, and +shakes his mane; and if he does not give these signals of rage, there +is no danger in passing him. Tigers and leopards are also very common, +and do a vast deal of mischief; and it is probable these animals would +be much more numerous, were it not for a race of wild dogs, which hunt +in packs, and are so bold that they often weary out and worry a lion. +They often destroy tigers, leopards, and wolves, and it is said that +they will allow a man to take their prey from them when they have +killed it. Travellers are never afraid when they fall in with these +wild dogs, but rather rejoice, because they are sure that no ferocious +animal is in the neighbourhood. There are many elephants in this +country, and of as great size, as any in the world, being often from +twelve to fifteen feet high or better, their teeth weighing from sixty +to an hundred and twenty pounds. The rhinoceros is also often met +with. This animal is rather less than the elephant, but stronger. His +skin is prodigiously thick, and so hard that scarcely any weapon can +pierce it. His snout is like that of a hog, on which grows a solid +horn, ten or twelve inches long, which is much valued, because +esteemed an excellent medicine in convulsions. + +There are two animals peculiar to this country, which therefore +deserve notice. One is a species of wild ass, which resembles the +common ass in nothing but the length of its ears. It is as large as +an ordinary horse, and is the most beautiful animal in the world. His +hair is very soft, and from the ridge of the back descends in coloured +streaks to the belly, forming so many circles. It is a brisk and +lively creature, which runs more swiftly than any horse. It is very +difficult to take alive, and when taken cannot be tamed; yet sells +at a prodigious price, and is thought a fit present for a sovereign +prince, from its rarity and exquisite beauty[4]. The other creature, +found in no other country, is called by the Dutch the _Stinkbungsen_, +or Stinking-Badger. This is of the size of an ordinary dog, but is +shaped like a ferret. When pursued by man or beast, it retreats but +slowly, and when its enemy draws near, discharges backwards a so +intolerably fetid wind, that dogs tear up the ground and hide their +noses in it, to avoid the smell. When killed, it stinks so abominably +that there is no approaching the carcass, which is therefore left to +consume where it falls. + +[Footnote 4: This is a very imperfect account of the Zebra, which +exactly resembles the ass, except in colour, and is by no means +larger. One died lately in Edinburgh, after being exhibited as a show, +which was as quiet and gentle as any lady's donkey.--E.] + +It is impossible to describe all the creatures that are seen in the +vast forests of Africa, as the inhabitants see new animals every year +that are utterly unknown to them. They allege that, in the middle of +summer, when the wild animals are almost raging mad with thirst, they +resort in vast multitudes to the rivers named Salt, Elephants, and +St John's rivers, where the males and females of different species +intermixing, produce strange beasts that seem to be new species. The +Hottentots in the service of the Company frequently carry the skins of +these monsters to the governor; and our author assures us that he +saw one of the following description, that had been killed not long +before. It was about the size of a calf of six months old, and seemed +to have had four eyes. The head resembled that of a lion, but the hair +was quite smooth, and of a dark grey colour. It had tusks like a boar. +The fore-feet resembled those of that creature; but the hind-feet were +like those of a tiger. + +The birds of this country are in a manner infinite in numbers and +sorts; and though they have not been observed often to intermingle +species, yet hybrids are sometimes remarked among them. The largest +and strongest birds are to be found in Africa, among which is the +ostrich, the largest of all, being commonly seven feet high. The beak +is short and pointed, but the neck is very long. The feathers of the +male are white and black only, while those of the female are mixed +white, black, and grey. Those of the former are most esteemed, as +their large feathers are better spread, and their down much softer. +This bird is prodigiously swift of foot, and is hunted down by hounds. +Their wings do not serve them to fly, but assist them in running, +especially when they have the wind with them. The common opinion of +their being able to digest iron is totally false. They swallow pieces +of iron indeed, but then it is only to bruise the food in their +gizzards, just as other birds swallow stones for the same purpose. +They are also said to leave their eggs uncovered on the sand, and to +take no care of their young. But those of the Cape country hide their +eggs in the sand, and are so tender of their young, that, though +naturally timorous, if one of them is missing, they become quite +furious, so that it is not safe to go near them. There are abundance +of eagles of all sorts at the Cape, which are very bold, and +frequently do a great deal of mischief. They are not very large, yet +are incredibly strong, so that they often kill and devour cattle when +returning home from work, when they come in great flocks. of fifty or +an hundred at once, single out a beast as it feeds among the flock, +and falling upon it all at once, kill and devour it. + +Some years before our author was at the Cape, there was seen on Table +Mountain a bird as large in the body as a horse, having grey and black +plumage. His beak and talons were like those of an eagle, but of a +most dreadful size. He sat and hovered about that mountain for a long +time, and the people were persuaded it was a griffin. It frequently +carried off sheep and calves, and at length began to destroy the cows, +on which orders were given to destroy it, and it was accordingly shot, +its skin stuffed, and sent home as a curiosity to the Company. No such +bird, has been seen since, and the oldest people of the colony do not +remember to have heard of any such before.[5] + +[Footnote 5: This was probably a stray Condor, and its size an +ordinary exaggeration, in the passage of the story, like that of _the +three black crows_.--E.] + +Africa has been long famous for serpents, and there are such vast +numbers of them in the neighbourhood of the Cape, that many of them +have no names. Most of them are extremely venomous, and the colonists +would suffer much more than they do from them, were it not that they +have a specific remedy for their bites, not known in Europe. This +remedy is the _serpent-stone_, allowed to be factitious, and is +brought from India, where they are made by the bramins who have the +secret of composing them, which they so carefully conceal, that no +Europeans have hitherto been able to discover how they are made. The +serpent-stone is about the size of a bean, white in the middle, but of +a fine sky-blue on the outside. When a person is bitten by a serpent, +this stone is applied to the wound, to which it soon sticks fast of +itself, without the aid of any bandage or plaister. The part bitten +begins immediately to swell and becomes inflamed. The stone also +swells till it becomes full of the venom, and then drops off. It is +then put into warm milk, where it soon purges itself from the venom, +and resumes its natural colour, after which it is again applied to the +wound, where it sticks as before, till a second time full, and so on +till all the venom is extracted and the cure perfected. + +All the mountains of this vast country are full of minerals and +crystal, with many things of great value, if they could be got at; +but the natives are so fearful of being made slaves in the mines, that +they take all imaginable pains to conceal them. There is particularly +a mountain, about 500 leagues from the Cape, called _Copper-mountain_, +which is supposed to contain great quantities of metals. Large +quantities of copper have been found here, which is said to contain a +mixture of gold. Some Europeans endeavoured to follow the natives, who +were suspected of going to that mountain to gather gold, but were all +massacred. The Company is so tender of the colonists, and so unwilling +to risk a revolt, that they have even neglected a gold-mine much +nearer the Cape, the marcasites of which gave great hopes of its +containing abundance of gold. Perhaps the Company may have another +reason for acting in this manner, lest, if a gold-mine was discovered +at the Cape, it might tempt the French or English to undertake +something to their prejudice. Under its present management, the Dutch +colony at the Cape is a general advantage to other nations, as well +as to the Dutch. A few years ago a cavern was discovered in a mountain +very near Cape-Town, in which the Hottentots find the venom in which +they dip their poisoned arrows. There have likewise been found about +twenty leagues from the Cape, some hot springs impregnated with steel, +which have been found to cure many diseases, by using as a bath. + +Considerable improvements may certainly be made on this colony, for +the advantage both of the inhabitants and the company, which latter +make no great gains by this establishment besides the convenience it +affords in giving refreshments to their ships going to and returning +from India. The Company would be glad of any means that might +increase the value of the settlement, consistent with their maxims of +government, and with that indulgence they find it necessary to shew +the Hottentots, who are perhaps more tenacious of their liberty than +any people on earth, and the most desperate in resenting any attempts +to its prejudice. + + + +SECTION XVII. + +_Voyage from the Cape of Good Hope to Holland, with some Account of St +Helena, the Island of Ascension, and the Acores_. + +Towards the end of March, 1723, the ship being revictualled, they +sailed from Table-bay with a brisk wind at S.E. the fleet homewards +bound consisting of twenty-three sail, mostly belonging to the Dutch +East India Company. In about three weeks they reached the island of +_St Helena_, which is in the latitude of 16 deg. 15' S. [lat. 16 deg. S. long. +5 deg. 30' W.] This island is about seven leagues in circumference, and +is entirely composed of rocky hills, which may be seen in a clear day +from the distance of forty leagues. It is surprising to see so small +an island in the midst of the ocean, at so great a distance from any +other land, being 550 leagues from the Cape, 500 leagues from Brazil, +and 350 from Augusta, which is the nearest land[1]; yet the sea is all +around so very deep, that there is hardly an anchorage to be found. +This island was first discovered by the Portuguese, on which occasion +one of their large Indian carracks was wrecked, from the remains of +which they built a chapel, long since decayed, but which still gives +name to the finest valley in the island. They planted lemons, oranges, +and pomegranates all over the island, and left here hogs and goats, +together with partridges, pigeons, and peacocks, for the convenience +of ships touching here. At one time a hermit chose to live here, +killing the goats for the sake of their skins, which he sold to +ships that stopped here; but the Portuguese removed him, as they did +afterwards some negro slaves who had settled in the mountains. It is +now possessed by the English, who have so good a fort that it is not +likely any other nation should be able to drive them out. The vallies +are exceedingly beautiful and fertile, and in these the weather is +sometimes exceedingly hot; but as it is always cool on the mountains, +the inhabitants can never be in want of a place of refreshment. It is +admirably watered, having many rivulets running from the tops of the +hills into the sea, the water of these being as clear as crystal. The +island produces abundance of mustard, parsley, sorrel, cresses, and +other herbs, excellent against the scurvy. It has also abundance of +trees fit for fuel, but none that can serve as timber. All sorts of +refreshments are to be had in plenty. + +[Footnote 1: Caleo Negro, in lat. 16 deg. 20' S. on the coast of Africa, +is the nearest part of the continent, and is probably what is referred +to in the text under the name of Augusta.--E.] + +They sailed from hence for the island of _Ascension_, which lies in +lat 8 deg. N. and long. 14 deg. 20' W. about 200 leagues N.W. from St Helena. +This is much of the same size, but the shore is excessively rocky, and +the whole island absolutely barren, having neither trees nor grass, +and the entire surface seems as it were rent asunder, whence some +have conceived, and not without great show of reason, that it had been +formerly a volcano, or burning mountain. In the middle of the island +there is a high hill, on one side of which water has been found. At +one season of the year, the whole surface of the island is covered +with sea-fowl. What chiefly induces ships to put into the only harbour +of the island, is the great plenty of excellent turtle to be found +here. When these animals come on shore in the night to lay their eggs, +the sailors turn them over on their backs till they have leisure to +carry them on board. These creatures will live above a month without +any kind of sustenance, having only a little salt water sprinkled +over them three or four times a-day. The sailors never weary of eating +them, believing that they make a perfect change of their juices, +freeing them entirely from the scurvy and other diseases of the blood. + +As this island is a very miserable place to live in, it is common to +leave malefactors here when they do not incline to put them to death. +This was done not long before our author passed this way, to a Dutch +book-keeper, who was convicted of sodomy; though perhaps this may +be considered as a worse punishment even than death, considering the +miseries that must be endured in the hottest climate of the world, on +a place that does not afford even the slightest shelter. After leaving +this island, they began to approach the line, which they crossed +without feeling any excessive heat, as the sun was then towards the +north, and they had the benefit of pretty fresh gales, which moderated +the heat extremely. They now also began to see the north-star at +night, which they had not done for a year and a half and it is +impossible to express how much the seamen were rejoiced at this +circumstance. + +Coming into the latitude of 18 deg. N. we found that part of the sea which +is generally so covered with grass that it looks at a distance like a +meadow. This grass has a yellowish cast, being hollow within, and on +being pressed it yields a clammy viscous juice. In some years none +of this grass appears, while in other years it is found in prodigious +quantities. Some imagine that it comes from the bottom of the sea, as +divers report that the bottom is in many places covered with grass and +flowers. Others conceive that it comes from the coast of Africa: But +our author disapproves both of these opinions, because, if it came +from the bottom, there is no reason why the same appearance should not +be found elsewhere; whereas, if it came from the coast of Africa, it +ought to be found in other situations, especially near that coast. His +opinion, therefore, is, that it comes from the coast of America, and +particularly from the Gulf of Bahama, or Mexico, where it is known +to grow in great abundance, and where, when it comes to maturity, it +breaks off; and is carried away by the currents.[2] + +[Footnote 2. In the old Portuguese maps and voyages, this part of +the Atlantic is called _Mar de Sargasso_, or the _Sea of Cresses_; +Sargasso signifying water-cresses, which these weeds which spread over +the sea nearly resemble.--Harris.] + +Nothing is more difficult than to account for the motion and course +of currents in the ocean, which, in some places, run for six months +in one direction, and six in another, while in other places they run +always one way. There are instances also where they run one way for +a day or two after full moon, and then run strongly in the opposite +direction till next full moon. Seamen also observe, that in places +where the trade-winds blow, the currents are generally influenced by +them, moving the same way with the winds, but not with equal force +in all places; neither are they so discernible in the wide ocean, +but chiefly about islands, where their effects are more or less felt +according as they are influenced by being more or less in the way +of the trade-winds. It would be of great service to navigation if +sensible men would take notice of these currents, and enquire into the +reason of their appearances. In old books of voyages we find many more +wonders than in those of later date, not because the course of nature +is at all changed, but because nature was not then so well understood. +A thousand things were prodigious a century ago, which are not now at +all strange. Thus the storms at the Cape of Good Hope, which make so +great a figure in the histories of the Portuguese discoveries, are now +known to have been merely the effect of endeavouring to double that +Cape at a wrong season of the year. + +In the East and West Indies, the natives are able to foretell +hurricanes and tornadoes, not from any superior skill, but by +observing certain signs which usually precede them. There is often so +little apparent connection between the sign and the event, that men +who value themselves on their wisdom are apt to slight such warnings +as impertinent and absurd. But they had better enquire diligently into +facts, and neither receive nor reject them too hastily. In the present +case, it is a clear matter of fact that the sea, in the latitude of +18 deg. N. between Africa and America, is frequently covered with weeds +to a great extent, and there is good reason for enquiry as to whence +these weeds come. In the first voyage made by the famous Columbus for +the discovery of the new world, he met with this grass or sea-weed +floating on the sea, without which he could not have prevailed on his +sailors to continue the voyage; and it is very remarkable, that, by +pursuing his course through these weeds, he arrived in the Gulf of +Bahama, the place whence our present author supposes this sea-grass to +come.[3] + +[Footnote 3: In his first voyage, Columbus kept the parallel of +about 37 deg. N. but was considerably farther south in his subsequent +voyage.--E.] + +Continuing their course to the north, they encountered hard gales of +wind, by which they were driven into lat. 37 deg. N. where they fell in +with two islands, which proved to be _Flores_ and _Corres_;[4] and as +their fresh provisions were now nearly spent, they stopped three days +at the larger island to procure refreshments. There are two of the +islands named _Acores_ by the Spaniards, which signifies the _islands +of hawks_. The Dutch call them _Vlanneische eslanders_, or _Flemish +islands_, because Fayal was first peopled by Flemings, and their +descendants remain in the island to this day, and are easily +distinguished from the other inhabitants by their shape and air. They +dwell upon a little river running down a mountain, called _Ribera dos +Flamenas_ by the Portuguese, or river of the Flemings. + +[Footnote 4: Flores is in lat. 39 deg. 10', Corvo in 39 deg. 35', both N.] + +The nine islands of the Acores, or Wester Islands, are Tercera, San +Michael, Santa Maria, St George, Gratiosa, Pico, Fayal, Corvo, and +Flores. Tercera is the chief island, being fifteen or sixteen leagues +in circumference, and so high and steep in many places that it is +almost impregnable, and they have built forts in such places as are +accessible. The only port is before the capital, named _Angra_, and +as it is in the form of a half-moon, it is called the _Half-Moon of +Angra_. At each horn of this half-moon there is a mountain, which are +called the Brazils, which project out into the sea, appearing from a +distance as if two islands; and these mountains are so high that one +may see at any time ten or twelve leagues off, and fifteen in clear +weather. Angra has a fine cathedral, and is the residence of a bishop, +and of a governor and council, whose authority extends over all the +nine islands. There is another town three leagues from Angra, called +Praya, or the town of the shore, situated on a shore which cannot be +approached by ships, so that it has no trade, and the town seems a +kind of desert, though well built and walled round. + +The inhabitants raise sufficient provisions on the island for +all their wants, being pleasant and fertile, and all covered with +corn-fields; and so abounds with flesh, fish, and all sorts of +victuals, that even in times of the greatest scarcity, there is enough +for all the inhabitants. It produces wine also, but very small, and +does not keep well, wherefore the richer people provide themselves +from Madeira and the Canaries. They want oil, salt, lime, and potters +ware, which they have to import from other countries. They have +abundance of peaches, apples, pears, oranges, and lemons, with all +sorts of vegetables and garden stuffs, and among these a plant +called _batatas_, which grows like a vine stock, but the leaves are +different. These produce roots, weighing a pound more or less, and +are so plentiful that they are despised by the rich, though of a sweet +pleasant taste and very nourishing. There is another root in this +country as large as a man's two fists, covered over with filaments of +a golden yellow colour, and as smooth as silk. The inhabitants +stuff beds with this, instead of feathers, but skilful workmen could +certainly manufacture it into fine stuffs. + +There are but few birds, except canaries, quails, ordinary poultry, +and turkies, which are numerous. Several parts of this island are very +hilly, and full of thick and almost impervious woods; and travelling +is rendered very difficult, as you often find rocks a league in +length, so rugged and sharp that they cut the shoes at every step; +yet these rocks are so full of vines that they are not to be seen +in summer, being covered over by the vine leaves. These vines spread +their roots among the crannies and crevices of the rocks, which are +so small and devoid of soil, that it is wonderful how they should find +any nourishment; yet if planted in the good soil of the country, the +vines will not grow. The corn and fruits of this island will not keep +above a year; and unless the corn is buried under ground, it spoils in +four months. On this account, every inhabitant has a pit without the +town, the mouth of which is round, just large enough to admit a man, +which is covered by a flat stone and secured by a lock. Some of these +pits are so large as to contain two or three lasts of corn, the last +containing 108 bushels Amsterdam measure, and each bushel weighing +forty pounds or more. They put their corn into these pits in July, +and cover the stone with earth to exclude the air, and take it out at +Christmas, or considerably later, finding it then as good as when put +in. The oxen in Tercera are the largest and finest that can be, equal +to any in Europe, and have prodigiously wide horns. Every one has his +name, like our dogs, and they are so familiar, that when the master +calls one of them by his name, though among a thousand others, he will +presently come to him. + +One would think the ground of this island were hollow, as the rocks +sound like vaults when walked on; and indeed the thing is not at all +improbable, as the island is much subject to earthquakes. In many +places of the island of San Michael there are holes and cracks, out of +which there comes a great smoke, and the ground seems as if burnt all +around. This is not uncommon also in all the islands, as they all have +sulphur mountains. There are also fountains of water so hot as to boil +eggs. Three leagues from Angra there is a petrifying spring, which +changes wood into stone; and there was formerly a tree having some of +its roots in that water, which were stony and as hard as flint. This +island produces excellent timber, especially cedar, which is so common +that their carts and waggons are made of it, and it is even used as +fuel. The island of _Pico_, twelve leagues from Tercera, has a sort of +wood called _teixo_, as hard as iron, and of a shining red colour when +wrought. It becomes always better and finer as it grows older; for +which reason no person is allowed to cut any of these trees, unless +for the king's use, and by virtue of a special order from the royal +officers. The chief trade of Tercera consists in _woad_, of which they +have great quantities. The fleets of Spain and Portugal, bound for the +East Indies, Brazil, Cape Verd, Guinea, and other countries, usually +come here for refreshments, to the great profit of this and the other +islands, the inhabitants selling to them their various articles at +good prices. + +The island of _San Michael_ is seven or eight leagues S.E. of Tercera, +and is about twenty leagues in length, having several towns and +villages. The capital of this island is _Ponta del Guda_, which drives +a considerable trade in _woad_, sent to Tercera, producing about +200,000 quintals[5] every year. This island also produces such +abundance of corn, that it is transported to the other islands; but it +has no harbours or rivers to give shelter to ships. + +[Footnote 5: This is perhaps an error for 2000, as the larger quantity +would amount to 10,000 tons.--E.] + +_Santa Maria_, twelve leagues S. of San Michael, is ten or twelve +leagues in circumference, its only trade being in earthen ware, with +which the inhabitants supply the other islands. It also produces +plenty of all manner of provisions for its own inhabitants. The island +of _Gratiosa_, seven or eight leagues N.N.W. of Tercera, is only about +five or six leagues in circumference, but abounds in provisions of all +sorts. _St George_, eight or nine leagues N.W. of Tercera, is +twelve leagues in length by two or three in breadth. This is a wild +mountainous country, producing very little woad. The inhabitants +subsist by cultivating the ground and keeping cattle, and export +considerable quantities of cedar to Tercera. _Fayal_, seven German +leagues S.S.W. of St George, is seventeen or eighteen leagues in +circumference, and is the best of the Acores, after Tercera and San +Michael. This island has plenty of woad, with abundance of fish, +cattle, and other commodities, which are exported to Tercera and the +other islands. Its chief town is called _Villa Dorta_. Most of the +inhabitants of this island are descended from Flemings, but now speak +the Portuguese language; yet they continue to love the Flemings, and +use all strangers kindly. + +Three leagues S.E. of Fayal is the island of _Pico_, so called from +a peaked mountain, which some believe to be higher than the Peak of +Teneriffe. The inhabitants cultivate the soil, and have plenty of +cattle and other provisions, growing also better wine than in any +other island of the Acores. This island is about fifteen leagues in +circumference. Seventy leagues W.N.W. from Tercera is the island of +_Flores_, and to the N. of it lies _Corvo_, the former about seven, +and the latter not above two or three leagues in circumference. +They both produce woad, especially Flores, which also abounds in +provisions. The winds at all these islands are so strong, and the air +so piercing, especially at Tercera, that they in a short time spoil +and consume the stones of the houses, and even iron.[6] They have a +kind of stone, however, that is found within high-water mark, which +resists the air better than the other sorts, and of which the fronts +of their houses are generally built. + +[Footnote 6: This effect on the iron is obviously occasioned by +the muriatic acid in the sea spray; and were it not that the author +expressly says they have no lime, one would be apt to believe that the +stones so affected were limestone. There are, however, some cilicious +sand-stones, in which the grit, or particles of sand, are cemented +together by a calcareous infiltration, which may be the case in these +islands.--E.] + +Leaving the Acores, and getting into Spanish sea, or mouth of the bay +of Biscay, the weather proved so bad that the _Advice-ship_ lost +her rudder, which obliged her to go through the Channel in order to +purchase a new one on the coast of England. The French, Danish, and +other ships, generally go that way; but the Dutch ships generally go +round Ireland and north about, from an idea, if they should happen +to meet with stormy weather in the channel, so as to be obliged to go +into an English port, that this might occasion several inconveniences. +Such ships, however, as have sustained any damage at sea, are +permitted to take their way through the channel. The rest of the Dutch +fleet followed the north-about course; and after three weeks, during +which they were involved in perpetual mists and fogs, they had sight +at length of the Orkney islands, where some Dutch ships were still +engaged in the herring fishery. In the latitude of 60 deg. N. they met +some ships of war that waited for them, and convoyed them to the +coast of Holland, where all the ships got into their destined ports +in safety. Those on board of which were our author, and the other +prisoners, came into the Texel on the 11th of July, 1723; and arrived +five days afterwards at Amsterdam, the very same day two years after +sailing on their voyage. + +The West-Company immediately commenced a law-suit against the +East-India Company, in behalf of themselves and all the persons +engaged in their service in the foregoing voyage, to obtain +satisfaction for the injury and injustice done them at Batavia. After +a long litigation, the States-General decreed, that the East-India +Company should furnish the West-India Company with two new ships, +completely fitted for sea in every respect, better than those which +had been confiscated by their officers in India, and should pay the +full value of their cargoes. Also, that the East-India Company should +pay the wages of the crews of both ships, up to the day of their +landing in Holland: Together with the entire costs of suit; besides +a considerable sum by way of fine, as a punishment for having abused +their authority so egregiously.[7] + +[Footnote 7: Harris has given a report of this law-suit at some +length, but it did not seem necessary to give any more than the +result, as quite uninteresting at the present day.--E.] + + + + +CHAPTER XIV. + +VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD, BY CAPTAIN GEORGE ANSON, IN THE YEARS +1740-1744.[1] + + +PREFACE. + +Though of considerable length, the importance of this narrative +forbids all attempts to alter it in any respect; except that it has +been necessary to leave out the explanations of several engraved +views of coasts and harbours, inserted in the original, but which were +greatly too large for admission, and would have been rendered totally +useless by being reduced to any convenient use for the octavo form +of this collection. Indeed, to have introduced all the engravings of +plans and views, necessary for the illustration of this and many other +voyages and travels, would have been utterly incompatible with the +nature and circumstances of this work; as nothing less than a complete +Atlas and entire Neptune of the whole globe could have sufficed, +attended by an enormous expence, and at the same time inadmissible +into octavo volumes. It has therefore been indispensably requisite, +on all occasions, to confine our illustrations of that kind to a +few reduced charts, merely sufficient to convey general notions of +geographical circumstances, and occasionally sketch plans of harbours, +straits, islands, and capes, explanatory of particular and important +places. Such of our readers, therefore, as require more complete +illustrations of geography, topography, and hydrography, must have +recourse to Atlasses, Neptunes, and coasting pilots. + +[Footnote 1: Voyage, &c. by George Anson, Esq. afterwards Lord +Anson; compiled from his papers and materials by Richard Walter, M.A. +chaplain of H.M.S. Centurion in that expedition--_fifteenth edition_, +4to, Lond. 1776.] + +This narrative was originally published under the name of Richard +Walter, chaplain to H.M.S. Centurion in the expedition, dedicated by +him to John Duke of Bedford, and said to have been compiled by that +gentleman from papers and materials furnished for the purpose by +Commodore Anson. + +As the object of this expedition was of an extensive political nature, +intended to humble the power of Spain, in her most valuable yet most +vulnerable possessions, by injuring and intercepting the great source +of her public treasure, it has been thought proper, on the present +occasion, to give a transcript of the reflections made upon the +policy and expedience of this important voyage, very soon after +its completion, by Dr John Harris, by way of _Introduction_ to his +abridged account of this circumnavigation, in his Collection of +Voyages and Travels, vol. i. p. 337. + + * * * * * + +"It is a thing that has been generally taken for granted, ever since +Spain has been possessed of her American dominions, and has made use +of the riches derived from these to disturb the peace and invade the +liberties of her neighbours, that the best way to reduce her strength, +and to prevent the bad effects of her evil intentions, would be to +attack her in the South Seas. This was pursued with great diligence, +and in some measure with success, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, [as +has been already shewn in the circumnavigatory voyages of Drake +and Candish, almost solely devoted to that object.] In that of her +successor, when a new quarrel broke out with that crown, in the year +1624, the first thing thought of by our patriots, who were equally +willing to humble the king's enemies and to save the money of the +nation, was an expedition to the South Seas, to be carried on at +the expence of, and for the benefit of the people; which scheme was +entitled _The West-India Association_. + +"It may be thought I look a great way back when I offer to the view +of the reader the reasons which were then suggested in parliament in +support of that scheme. But whoever considers that it is not only the +most effectual, but the safest method, to instruct the present age +from the sentiments of the last, will readily enter into the reasons +which induce me, upon this occasion, to produce the speech of an +eminent patriot, in which the nature and scope of that _Association_, +as well as the motives on which it is grounded, are very fully and +pathetically set forth; and this in such terms, as, if the reader were +not told that this was a speech to Sir Dudley Diggs, then chairman +of a committee of the whole house, by Sir Benjamin Rudyard, he might +mistake it for a speech made only a few years since, so agreeable is +it, in language and sentiments, even to our present occasions. + +"Sir,--I do profess that as my affections, my reason, and my judgement +go strongly with the scope and drift of this proposition, so shall +good part of my fortune when it comes to execution. For, to my +understanding, there was never propounded in parliament a design more +proper for this kingdom, nor more pregnant with advantages to it, +whether we consider the nature of our situation or the quality of our +enemy's forces. As we are an island, it concerns our very being to +have store of ships to defend us, and also our well-being by their +trade to enrich us. This Association for the West Indies, when it +shall be regulated and established by act of parliament, and thereby +secured from the violence and injury of any intruding hand, will +certainly give many men encouragement and confidence voluntarily +to bring in large and liberal contributions towards so noble and so +profitable an enterprize; so that, in short, we shall see many new +ships built, many brave men employed, and enabled to act for the +service of their country. None of this money shall be carried out of +the kingdom, but laid out in shipping, which is the defence of it, and +bestowed upon our own men, who must be fed and maintained though they +stay at home. For this, we shall reap the fruit of whatsoever benefit +plantation, traffic, or purchase can procure us, besides honour and +security. + +"Now, let us a little consider the enemy we have to encounter, the +king of Spain. They are not his great territories which make him so +powerful and so troublesome to all Christendom. For it is very well +known that Spain itself is but weak in men, and barren of natural +commodities, and as for his other territories, they lie divided and +asunder, which is a weakness in itself. Besides, they are held +by force, and maintained at an extraordinary charge; insomuch, as +although he be a great king, yet he is like that giant who was said +to have an hundred hands, but had fifty bellies to feed, so that, +rateably, he had no more hands than another man. No, sir, they are +his mines in the West Indies which minister fuel to feed his ambitious +desire of universal monarchy. It is the money he hath from thence +which makes him able to levy and pay soldiers in all places, and to +keep an army on foot ready to invade and endanger his neighbours, so +that we have no other way but to endeavour to cut him off at the root, +and seek to impeach or to supplant him in the West Indies; by part +of which course that famous queen, of glorious memory, had heretofore +almost brought him to his knees. And this our undertaking, if it +pleases God to bless it, most needs affect it sooner and quicker, the +whole body of the kingdom being united, and concurring in a perpetual +supply to this action, so that he shall have no free time given him to +rest. + +"Moreover, this will be a means not only to save, but to fill his +majesty's coffers, enabling the people to give him liberally and +often. The king's ships will have little to do but to guard the +coasts; for the sea-war will be chiefly made at the charge of the +subjects. This I doubt not but that, in a short time, both king and +people shall be safe at home, and feared abroad. To conclude, I shall +be very glad to hear any man make objection against this design, so +that he do so with an intention to refine and perfect the work; but +if any shall speak against it with a mind to hinder and destroy it, I +must entreat him to pardon me, if I do scarce think him to be a good +Englishman. + +"That project of the West India Association had the same fate with +most other bold and honest projects in that reign, which was, after +being talked of a little, it sunk into oblivion. Our next difference +with Spain was under the protectorate of Cromwell, who encouraged +Father Gage to publish his account of the Spanish West Indies, which +formed the foundation of his attempt upon Hispaniola, and conquest of +Jamaica; but I do not know of any design formed by him to attack the +Spaniards in the South Seas. After the Restoration we were upon good +terms with Spain, as certainly was our interest. Yet Charles II. did +not absolutely neglect this navigation, but sent Sir John Marborough, +one of the best seamen this nation ever bred, in the Sweepstakes, in +the latter end of the year 1669, by way of the Straits of Magellan, +into the South Seas. To say the truth, our privateers, under the +command of Captains Sharpe, Davis, Swan, &c. were continually in these +seas, during all that reign and the next; so that, in those days, our +seamen were no strangers to any of the passages into the South Seas; +and, as the reader may have already observed, from the voyage of +Captain Cowley, it was then no unusual thing for the traders of London +to fit out ships for these parts, but whether with a view to traffic +or privateering, is a point not easy to determine at this distance of +time. But whatever the purpose they were sent upon, thither they went, +and no complaints were ever heard of with respect to extraordinary +hardships in the voyage, which is sufficient to shew how much +depends upon keeping all branches of navigation open, in order to +be constantly in a condition to secure and extend our trade, and to +preserve our reputation as a maritime power. + +"After the Revolution, several proposals were made in relation to the +establishment of a commerce in the South Sea, which were received with +approbation; and it is certain that king William gave instructions to +Admiral Benbow, when he went out last to the West Indies, to enquire +how far any of these projects were feasible. After the breaking out of +the last general war, all the world expected that the first thing the +maritime powers would have done, would have been sending a squadron +to these seas, either for the service of the prince whom they owned as +king of Spain, or for their own advantage. The people of this nation, +in particular, were so desirous of seeing the war carried on this way, +and on this side, that, to give them hopes, and to shew, at the same +time, that the legislature approved their sentiments, a bill was +brought in and passed, in the House of Lords, for the better carrying +on the war in the West Indies, which was lost, however, by a kind +of ministerial craft, in the House of Commons; and soon after, for +reasons which have never yet been explained to the public, all designs +of this nature were laid aside. The only expedition of this nature, +during the whole war, was that of the Duke and Duchess, under the +command of Captain Woods Rogers, already related, which was fitted out +at the expence of some private merchants of Bristol. On the change of +ministry, a prodigious clamour was raised on this head, and all of a +sudden a resolution was taken to secure all the advantages that could +be wished for to this nation from the trade of the South Seas, which +ended, however, only in erecting a company under that title. +The nation very soon became sensible that this would not do, and +therefore, as soon as our disputes with the king of Spain came to +a height, in the reign of the late king, George I. a design was +immediately set on foot for sending privateers once more into that +part of the world, which ended in the expedition of Captain Shelvocke +and Captain Clipperton, already related at large. + +"By this short deduction of facts, I think it is demonstrably proved, +that, in the judgement of this nation, the most probable way of +humbling Spain, in case of a war, is to send a squadron into the South +Seas, and I will venture to say, that there is one reason why this +is now become more expedient than ever, which is, that we are now no +longer at liberty to send ships thither in time of peace, as we were +before the South Sea Company was erected. It is not therefore at all +strange, that as soon as the present war broke out with Spain, the +general voice of the nation dictated such an expedition, or that, when +they saw it resolved on, and a squadron actually equipped for that +service, they very loudly testified their approbation of the scheme. +I believe also, my readers will readily give credit to the assertion, +when I affirm, that, during the time this squadron lay at Portsmouth, +there was a more general expectation of its performing things of the +highest consequence for the service of Great Britain, and reducing the +enemy to reason. + +"It was in the midst of summer, in the year 1740, that this squadron +was formed at Portsmouth, at the same time that a great embarkation +was preparing for the West Indies, by which the siege of Carthagena +was afterwards undertaken, which turned the eyes of the whole world +upon that sea-port. At London, every person spoke of the intended +expedition to the South Seas as a design that must necessarily be +attended with highly advantageous consequences, if properly conducted; +and of this there was not made the least doubt, when it was known that +Captain Anson was named to the command, because he had shewn himself +upon all occasions equally vigilant in his duty, and moderate in the +exercise of power, more ready to correct by his own example than by +any other sort of reproof, and who, in the course of his services, +had acquired the respect of the officers, and the love of the sailors; +qualities that rarely meet in one person, and qualities which, without +the least contradiction, were ascribed to him.[2] + +[Footnote 2: The sequel of these observations, by Harris, are +extracted from his supplementary reflections at the close of the +expedition, vol. 1, p. 364, _et sequ._ In these, however, we have used +much retrenchment, as the observations that may have been exceedingly +applicable in 1745, when Spain was in a great manner identified with +France, have now lost much of their force, in consequence of the +passing events, well known to all, but which do not admit of being +discussed in a note.--E.] + +"Though this expedition was not attended by so great success in the +South Seas as was expected, yet the nation in general was far from +believing that its comparative failure ought to deter us from +the thoughts of such expeditions for the future, since it plainly +appeared, that, if the whole squadron had got round along with +the commodore into the South Seas, he would have been able to have +performed much greater things than any of our commanders had hitherto +done in these parts. Neither is it at all clear that the Spaniards +are there in a better condition, their coasts better fortified, +their garrisons more numerous, or the country in any respect better +provided, than when our privateers had formerly so great success +in those parts. The sacking of Payta in this expedition proves the +contrary, since it was then actually in a worse condition, and less +capable of making any resistance, than when formerly taken by Captain +Shelvocke. If this expedition had never taken place, we might have +been told that it was impracticable, that the Spaniards were grown +wiser, that all their ports were well fortified, and any attempt of +this kind would be only to sacrifice the lives of such as might be +employed in the expedition. But we now know the contrary, and that the +Spaniards remained as unguarded, and as little apprehensive as ever; +perhaps even the fate of this expedition may have made them less +so, insomuch, that were a new project of the same kind to be put in +execution, either at public or private expence, there seems next to a +moral certainty that it would succeed. Another expedition might, +and probably would be attended by fewer difficulties; at least, it +certainly might be undertaken at much less expence; and, besides +all the advantages resulting to such private persons as became +proprietors, this inestimable advantage would accrue to the public, +that we should once more have a number of able marines, well +acquainted with the navigation of the South Seas, which we never can +have by any other means. + +"I would not be understood at all to lessen the miseries and +distresses of these who were employed in this voyage; and all I would +endeavour to aim at is to convince the reader that the difficulties +and discouragements met with in this voyage are not sufficient to +ground a decisive opinion by the few in opposition to the sentiments +of the many, that all attempts on this side ought to be abandoned. And +I really think that the setting the difficulties and discouragements +encountered by the Centurion in the strongest light, will serve my +purpose much better than lessening or extenuating them. For, if after +being ruined in a manner by storms, diseases, and hardships, they +landed rather skeletons than men, on the island of Juan Fernandez; if, +after their long cruize in the South Seas, their distresses came to be +as great when they took shelter in the island of Tinian; if the lying +at Macao was attended with many inconveniences; if the taking of the +Spanish galleon be a thing almost incredible, considering the small +number of men, and the condition they were in, who attacked her in the +Centurion; if the difficulties they afterwards met with in the river +of Canton, and the hazards run by the commodore in visiting the +viceroy, and thereby putting himself into the hands of such a people +as the Chinese, who could not but be displeased with his proceedings, +are circumstances which aggravate the matter: If so perilous a +navigation as that from Canton, through the Straits of Sunda, and +thence to the Cape of Good Hope, with little or no refreshment, with +a crew that wanted it so much, is still more amazing; and if the +bringing the ship home from thence, with a crew composed of so many +different nations, in the midst of a French war, and without the least +assistance from home, swell the whole into a kind of miracle, what +does all this prove? Since all this, under God, was entirely owing to +the prudence, moderation, and wise conduct of the commanding officer, +it certainly proves, if a right choice be made of commanders, that +there are no difficulties which may not be overcome, and therefore +that the adverse circumstances attending this voyage ought not at all +to discourage us. + +"For, with the help of the example afforded by Commodore Anson, I +presume that there are many officers who would undertake and execute +such an expedition, to the honour of their country, and to the +advantage of their employers, supposing them to be employed by private +persons. This is the right use that might be made of this expedition: +an expedition difficult, dangerous, and in a manner impracticable, +considered in one light, but equally glorious and successful +when considered in another point of view; An expedition that has +demonstrated to the whole world that a train of unforeseen and most +disastrous accidents may be remedied, and even turned to advantage, by +an honest, skilful, brave, experienced, and well-meaning officer; An +expedition which shews that there are no hazards, no difficulties, no +distresses capable of depressing the courage of English seamen under +a proper commander; an expedition which makes it evident that +discontent, sedition, and mutiny, do not arise from the restless +tempers, intractable dispositions, and unruly behaviour of the English +sailors, but purely from the want of prudence, and right management, +and, in short, from the want of experience and capacity of such as +are entrusted with the command of them; an expedition, in a word, that +puts it beyond all doubt that the British nation is, at this day, +as capable of undertaking as great things, and of performing them as +successfully, as ever were done by their ancestors; and, consequently, +an expedition that must convince not only us, but all Europe, that +if our maritime force be not employed in undertakings of the most +important nature, it is not owing to the degeneracy or our seamen, nor +to be imputed to our want of able or daring commanders, which is not +my business, and which indeed surpasses my abilities, to discover. + +"We are now to close this general subject of circumnavigations, which +relates to the whole world. It is true, that all the circumnavigators +did not propose, and that several of them did not make, any +discoveries; yet all their voyages are of great, though not of equal +importance, down to this last. For, by comparing that by Magellan, +which was the first, with this by Mr Anson, we shall find them to +differ in many respects, especially in the conclusion; that by Mr +Anson being by far the longer of the two. Some of them, also, took +quite a different route from others. As, for instance, Le Maire and +Roggewein, who never ran at all into the northern latitudes, but +sailed directly through the South Seas to the coast of New Guinea, and +thence to the island of Java; which is a much shorter course than +by way of California to the Philippines. From hence it very clearly +appears, that the passage to the East Indies by the South Seas is +shorter than that by the Cape of Good Hope;[3] of which the reader +will be convinced by considering the following particulars. Captain +Woods Rogers, in the Duke, sailed From the coast of Ireland and +doubled Cape Horn in four months; and Le Maire sailed from Juan +Fernandez to New Guinea and the Moluccas in three months; so that this +voyage takes up but seven months in the whole; whereas the Dutch, when +the chief emporium of their eastern commerce was fixed at Amboina, +thought it a good passage thither from Holland, if performed in ten or +eleven months.[4] It is from these stupendous voyages, that not only +the greatest discoveries have been made in general geography, but +from which all future discoveries must be expected; and therefore +this ought to be considered as one of the strongest arguments for +encouraging such voyages.[5]--_Harris._ + +[Footnote 3: It is not easy to conceive how Harris should have fallen +into this enormous error. To say nothing of the greater length and +difficulty of passing round Cape Horn, rather than the Cape of Good +Hope, the difference in longitudes is sufficient to establish the +absolute contrary of the position in the text. The longitude, for +instance, of the island of Ceylon, by the eastern passage, is only +80 deg. E. whereas by the western passage it is 280 W. an excess of 200 +degrees. Even Canton in China, is only in 113 deg. E. but in 247 deg. W. an +excess of 134 degrees.--E.] + +[Footnote 4: To say nothing of the absurdity of the partial instances +adduced, it may be mentioned that, only a few years ago, an English +East Indiaman performed the voyage from England to Madras, delivered +his outward-bound cargo, took on board a new cargo, and returned to +England, all within nine months.--E.] + +[Footnote 5: The remaining observations of Harris, supplementary +to his abbreviated account of this expedition, have no manner of +connection with the subject in hand, and are therefore omitted.] + + * * * * * + +George Anson, the commodore on this expedition, was born in 1697, +being the third son of William Anson, Esq. of Shuckborough, in the +county of Stafford. Taking an early inclination for the naval service, +and after passing through the usual inferior steps, he was appointed +second lieutenant of the Hampshire in 1716. He was raised to the rank +of master and commander in 1722, and obtained the rank of post captain +in 1724, with the command of the Scarborough man-of-war. Between that +time and the year 1733, he made three voyages to North Carolina; and +having acquired considerable wealth, he appears to have purchased an +estate in that colony, where he erected a small town of his own name, +which gave the name of Anson County to the surrounding district. In +the years 1738 and 1739, he made another voyage to America and the +coast of Africa; and, without proceeding to hostilities, removed +certain obstructions under which the English trade on the coast of +Guinea had suffered from the French. + +In the _War of the Merchants_, as it was called by Sir Robert Walpole, +which broke out in 1739 between Britain and Spain, Captain Anson was +appointed to the command of the expedition, the narrative of which +forms the subject of the present chapter. Immediately after his +return to England from this circumnavigation, Captain Anson was +made rear-admiral of the blue, and shortly afterwards, one of the +commissaries of the Admiralty. In 1746 he was farther promoted to the +rank of Vice-admiral; and in the winter of 1746-7, was entrusted with +the command of the channel fleet. In May 1747, off Cape Finisterre, +he captured six French ships of the line under the command of Admiral +Jonquiere, which had been dispatched for the protection of the +merchant ships destined for the East and West Indies. On this +occasion, when Mons. St George, one of the French captains, +surrendered his sword to Admiral Anson, he addressed him in the +following terms: _Vous avez vaincu L'Invincible, et La Gloire vous +suit._--"You have defeated the Invincible, and Glory follows you:" +alluding to two of the French ships, the Invincible and the Gloire, +which had surrendered to him. + +For this important service to his king and country, he was created a +peer of the realm, by the title of LORD ANSON; and, in 1749, on the +death of Admiral Norris, he was appointed Vice-admiral of England. In +1751, he succeeded to Lord Sandwich, as first Lord Commissioner of the +Admiralty; but, incurring censure for the loss of Minorca, he resigned +this situation in 1756. But, having been acquitted of all blame +relative to that disgraceful affair, after a parliamentary enquiry, he +was reinstated in that high office, which he continued to fill, with +honour to himself and advantage to his country, during the remainder +of his life. While attending upon the Duke of Mecklenburgh Strelitz, +brother to our present queen, to shew him the naval arsenal at +Portsmouth, and the fleet which was then about to sail on the +expedition against the Havannah, he caught a violent cold, of which he +died, at Moor-Park in Hertfordshire, on the 6th of June 1762, in the +sixty-fifth year of his age. Having no issue by his lady, the daughter +of Lord Hardwicke, whom he married in 1748, he left the whole of his +property to his brother. + +Lord Anson appears to have been remarkable for the coolness and +equanimity of his temper. Amid all the dangers and successes of his +circumnavigation of the globe, he never expressed any strong emotion, +either of sorrow or joy, except when the Centurion hove in sight of +Tinian. He was a man of few words, and was even reckoned particularly +silent among English seamen, who have never been distinguished for +their loquacity. He introduced a rigid discipline into the English +navy, somewhat resembling that of the Prussian army; and revived +that bold and close method of fighting, within pistol-shot, which had +formerly been so successfully employed by Blake and Shovel, and which +has fostered that daring courage and irresistible intrepidity in our +British seamen, which anticipate and secure success to the most daring +and hazardous enterprizes. + +In some reflexions, towards the conclusion of Betagh's +circumnavigation, Harris,[6] a former editor of a collection of +voyages and travels, breaks forth in the following laudatory strain:-- + +"Happy, happy, for us, that we have still a SEAMAN left, who has shewn +that the race of heroes is not yet extinct among us, in ADMIRAL ANSON, +that great and fortunate commander; who enjoys the singular felicity, +in an age of sloth, luxury, and corruption, that his _ease_ is the +result of his _labour_, his _title_ the reward of his _merit_, and +that his _wealth_ does _honour_ to his country." + +[Footnote 6: Harris, Voy. and Trav. I. 253.] + +How much more happy is it for us in the present day, somewhat more +than half a century later, and while every energy is required to the +utmost stretch, that we still have a race of transcendent heroes, who +have annihilated the navy and trade and colonies or our arch enemy, +have vindicated and preserved our glory and freedom and prosperity, +and bid fair to restore the honour and independence of the civilized +world, threatened with subversion by the modern Atilla--Ed. + + + +INTRODUCTION. + +Notwithstanding the great improvement of navigation within the last +two centuries, a voyage round the world is still considered as an +enterprize of so very singular a nature, that the public have never +failed to be extremely inquisitive about the various accidents +and turns of fortune with which this uncommon attempt is generally +attended. And, though the amusement expected in these narratives is +doubtless one great source of that curiosity with the bulk of readers, +yet the more intelligent part of mankind have always agreed, that, +from accounts of this nature, if faithfully executed, the more +important purposes of navigation, commerce, and national interest, may +be greatly promoted. For every authentic description of foreign coasts +and countries will contribute to one or more of these great ends, in +proportion to the wealth, wants, or commodities of these countries, +and our ignorance of these coasts; and therefore, a voyage round +the world promises a species of information, of all others, the most +desirable and interesting; since great part of it is performed in seas +with which we are, as yet, but very imperfectly acquainted, and in the +neighbourhood of a country renowned for the abundance of its wealth; +though it is, at the same time, stigmatized for its poverty in the +necessaries and conveniences of a civilized life. + +These considerations have occasioned the compiling the ensuing work; +which, in gratifying the inquisitive disposition of mankind, and +contributing to the safety and success of future navigators, and to +the extension of our commerce, may doubtless vie with any narration of +this kind hitherto made public; since, as to the first of these heads, +it may well be supposed that the general curiosity hath been strongly +excited, by the circumstances of this undertaking already known to the +world; for, whether we consider the force of the squadron sent on +this service, or the diversified distresses that each single ship was +separately involved in, or the uncommon instances of varying fortune +which attended the whole enterprize; each of these articles must, +I conceive, from its well-known rude outlines, appear worthy of a +completer and more finished delineation: And, if this be allowed with +respect to the narrative part of the work, there can be no doubt about +the more useful and instructive parts, which are almost every where +interwoven with it; for I can venture to affirm, without fear of being +contradicted, on a comparison, that no voyage, hitherto published, +furnishes such a number of views of land, soundings, draughts of +ports, charts, and other materials, for the improvement of geography +and navigation, as are contained in the ensuing volume; which are the +more valuable too, as the greatest part of them relate to such islands +or coasts as have been hitherto not at all, or erroneously described; +and where the want of sufficient and authentic information might +occasion future enterprizes to prove abortive, perhaps with the +destruction of the ships and men employed therein. + +Besides the number and choice of these marine drawings and +descriptions, there is another very essential circumstance belonging +to them, which much enhances their worth; and that is the great +accuracy with which they were executed. I shall express my opinion of +them, in this particular, very imperfectly, when I say that they are +not exceeded, and perhaps not equalled, by any thing of this nature +that hath, as yet, been communicated to the world: For they were not +copied from the works of others, or composed at home from imperfect +accounts given by incurious and unskilful observers, a practice +too frequent in these matters; but the greatest part of them were +delineated on the spot, with the utmost exactness, by the direction +and under the eye of Mr Anson himself; and where, as is the case in +three or four of them, they have been done by less skilful hands, or +were found in possession of the enemy, and consequently their justness +could be less relied on, I have always taken care to apprize the +reader of it, and to put him on his guard against giving entire credit +to them; although I doubt not but these less authentic draughts, thus +cautiously inserted, are to the full as correct as those which are +usually published upon these occasions. For, as actual surveys of +roads and harbours, and nice and critical delineations of views of +land, take up much time and attention, and require a good degree +of skill, both in planning and drawing, those who are defective +in industry and ability supply these wants by bold conjectures and +fictitious descriptions; and, as they can be no otherwise confuted +than by going on the spot, and running the risk of suffering by their +misinformation, they have no apprehension of being detected; and +therefore, when they intrude their supposititious productions on the +public, they make no conscience of boasting, at the same time, with +how much skill and care they have been executed. But let not those who +are unacquainted with naval affairs imagine, that the impositions of +this kind are of an innocent nature; for, as exact views of land are +the surest guides to a seaman, on a coast where he has never been +before, all fictions, in so interesting a matter, must be attended +with numerous dangers, and sometimes with the destruction of those who +are thus unhappily deceived.[7] + +[Footnote 7: It must be quite obvious to all who are in the least +degree acquainted with the nature of these draughts and views of land, +in the nature of a coasting pilot, that it is utterly impossible to +reduce them within the compass of an octavo size, and at the same +time to render them of the smallest degree of usefulness; while large +plates must have been necessary, and speedily destroyed by opening and +refolding.--E.] + +Besides these draughts of such places as Mr Anson, or the ships which +he commanded, have touched at in the course of this expedition, and +the descriptions and directions relating thereto, there is inserted, +in the ensuing work, an ample account, with a chart annexed to it, of +a particular navigation, of which hitherto little more than the name +has been known, except to those immediately employed in it: I mean +the tract described by the Manilla ship, in her passage to Acapulco, +through the northern part of the Pacific-ocean. This material article +is collected from the draughts and journals met with on board the +Manilla galleon, founded on the experience of more than an hundred and +fifty years practice, and corroborated in its principal circumstances +by the concurrent evidence of all the Spanish prisoners taken in that +vessel. And as many of their journals; which I have examined, appear +to have been not ill kept, I presume the chart of that northern ocean, +and the particulars of their routes through it, may be very safely +relied on by future navigators. The advantages which may be drawn from +an exact knowledge of this navigation, and the beneficial projects +which may be formed thereon, both in war and peace, are by no means +proper to be discussed in this place; but they will easily offer +themselves to the skilful in maritime affairs. However, as the Manilla +ships are the only ones which have ever traversed this vast ocean, +except a French straggler or two, which have been afterwards seized on +the coast of Mexico; and as, during near two ages, in which this trade +has been carried on, the Spaniards have secreted with the utmost +care all accounts of their voyages from the rest of the world; these +reasons would alone authorize the insertion of those papers, and would +recommend them to the inquisitive, as a very great improvement in +geography, and worthy of attention, from the singularity of many +circumstances therein recited. + +I must add what, in my opinion, is far from being the least +recommendation of these materials, that the observations of the +variations of the compass, which are laid down in the chart from these +Spanish journals, tend greatly to complete the general system of +the magnetic variation, of infinite importance to the commercial and +sea-faring part of mankind. These observations were, though in vain, +often publicly called for by our learned countryman, the late Dr +Halley, and to his immortal reputation they confirm, as far as they +extend, the wonderful hypothesis he had entertained on this head, +and very nearly correspond, in their quantity, to the predictions he +published about fifty years since, long before he was acquainted with +any one observation made in those seas. The ascertaining the +variation in that part of the world is just now of more than +ordinary consequence, as the editors of a new variation chart, lately +published, for want of proper information, have been misled by +an erroneous analogy, and have even mistaken the very species of +variation in that of the northern ocean; for they make it westerly +where it is easterly, and have laid it down 12 deg. or 13 deg. different from +its real quantity. + +This much it has been thought necessary to premise, with regard to the +hydrographical and geographical part of the ensuing work; which, it +is hoped, the reader will find, on perusal, much ampler and more +important than this slight sketch can well explain. But, as there +are hereafter interspersed, occasionally, some accounts of Spanish +transactions, and many observations relative to the dispositions +of the American Spaniards, and to the condition of the countries +bordering on the South Seas; and as herein I may appear to differ +greatly from the opinions generally established; I think it behoves me +particularly to recite the authorities I have been guided by in these +matters, that I may not be censured as having given way, either to a +thoughtless credulity on the one hand, or, what would be a much more +criminal imputation, to a wilful and deliberate misrepresentation on +the other. + +Mr Anson, before he set sail upon this expedition, besides the printed +journals to these parts, took care to furnish himself with the best +manuscript accounts he could procure of all the Spanish settlements +upon the coasts of Chili, Peru, and Mexico. These he carefully +compared with the examinations of his prisoners, and the informations +of several intelligent persons who fell into his hands in the South +Seas. He had likewise the good fortune, in some of his captures, to +possess himself of a great number of letters and papers of a public +nature, many of them written by the viceroy of Peru to the viceroy +of Santa Fee, to the presidents of Panama and Chili, to Don Blass +de Lezo, admiral of the galleons, and to divers other persons in +considerable employments; and in these letters there was usually +inserted a recital of those they were intended to answer, so that they +contained no small part of the correspondence between these officers, +for some time previous to our arrival on the coast. We took, besides, +many letters, sent from persons entrusted by the Spanish government, +to their friends and correspondents, which were frequently filled with +narrations of public business, and sometimes contained undisguised +animadversions on the views and conduct of their superiors. From these +materials those accounts of the Spanish affairs ore drawn, which may +appear, at first sight, the most exceptionable. In particular, the +history of the various casualties which befel Pizarro's squadron is, +for the most part, composed from intercepted letters; though, indeed, +the relation of the insurrection of Orellana and his followers is +founded on rather a less disputable authority; for it was taken from +the mouths of an English gentleman then on board Pizarro, who often +conversed with Pizarro; and it was, upon enquiry, confirmed in its +principal circumstances by others who were in the ship at the same +time: so that the fact, however extraordinary, is, I conceive, not to +be contested. + +And, on this occasion, I cannot but mention, that, though I have +endeavoured with my utmost care to adhere strictly to truth, in every +article of the ensuing narration, yet I am apprehensive that, in so +complicated a work, some oversights must have been committed, by the +inattention to which, at all times, all mankind are liable. However, I +am conscious, as yet, of none but literal and insignificant mistakes; +and if there are others more considerable, which have escaped me, I +flatter myself they are not of moment enough to affect any material +transaction; and therefore I hope they may justly claim the reader's +indulgence. + +After this general account of the ensuing work, it might be expected +perhaps, that I should proceed to the work itself; but I cannot finish +this introduction without adding a few reflections on a matter very +nearly connected with the present subject, and, as I conceive, neither +destitute of utility nor unworthy the attention of the public: I +mean the animating my countrymen, both in their public and private +stations, to the encouragement of all kinds of geographical and +nautical observations, and of every species of mechanical and +commercial information. It is by a settled attachment to these +seemingly minute particulars, that our ambitious neighbours have +established some part of that power with which we are now struggling: +and as we have the means in our hands of pursuing these subjects more +effectually than they can, it would be a dishonour to us longer to +neglect so easy and beneficial a practice. For, as we have a navy much +more numerous than theirs, great part of which is always employed in +very distant stations, either in the protection of our colonies and +commerce, or in assisting our allies against the common enemy, this +gives us frequent opportunities of furnishing ourselves with such kind +of materials as are here recommended, and such as might turn greatly +to our advantage either in war or peace; since, not to mention what +might be expected from the officers of the navy, if their application +to these subjects was properly encouraged, it would create no new +expence to the government to establish a particular regulation for +this purpose; as all that would be requisite would be constantly to +embark, in some of our men of war which are sent on those distant +cruizes, a person who, with the character of an engineer, and the +skill and talents necessary to that profession, should be employed in +drawing such coasts, and planning such harbours, as the ship should +touch at, and in making such other observations, of all kinds, as +might either prove of advantage to future navigators, or might any +ways tend to promote the public service. Persons habituated to these +operations, which could not fail at the same time of improving them in +their proper business, would be extremely useful in many other lights +besides those already mentioned, and might tend to secure our fleets +from those disgraces with which their attempts against places on +shore have been often attended. And, in a nation like ours, where +all sciences are more eagerly and universally pursued, and better +understood, than in any other part of the world, proper subjects for +these employments cannot long be wanting, if due encouragement were +given to them. + +This method, here recommended, is known to have been frequently +practised by the French, particularly in the instance of Mons. +Frezier, an engineer, who has published a celebrated voyage to the +South Seas: for this person was purposely sent by the French king, in +the year 1711, into that country, on board a merchant ship, that +he might examine and describe the coast, and take plans of all the +fortified places; the better to enable the French to prosecute their +illicit trade, or, on a rupture between them and the court of Spain, +to form their enterprizes in those seas with more readiness and +certainty. Should we pursue this method, we might hope that the +emulation amongst those who were commissioned for these undertakings, +and the experience which, even in the most peaceable intervals, they +would thereby acquire, might at length procure us a proper number +of able engineers, and might efface the national scandal which our +deficiency in that species of men has sometimes exposed us to: and +surely every step to encourage and improve them is of greater moment +to the public, as no persons, when they are properly instructed, make +better returns in war for the distinctions and emoluments bestowed +on them in times of peace: of which, the advantages the French have +reaped from their dexterity, too numerous and recent to be soon +forgot, are an ample confirmation. + +Having mentioned engineers, or such as are skilled in drawing and the +other usual practices of that profession, as the properest persons +to be employed in these foreign enquiries, I cannot but lament, as +it offers itself so very naturally to the subject in hand, how very +imperfect many of our accounts of distant countries are rendered by +the relators being unskilled in drawing, and in the general principles +of surveying, even where other abilities have not been wanting. Had +more of our travellers been initiated in these acquirements, and had +there been added thereto some little skill in the common astronomical +observations, all which a person of ordinary talents might attain with +a very moderate share of application, we should, by this time, have +seen the geography of the globe much correcter than we now find it; +the dangers of navigation would have been considerably lessened, and +the manners, arts, and produce of foreign countries would have been +better known to us than they are. Indeed, when I consider the strong +incitements that all travellers have to pursue some part at least of +these qualifications, especially drawing; when I consider how much +it would facilitate their observations, assist and strengthen their +memories, and of how tedious, and often unintelligible, a load of +description it would rid them; I cannot but wonder that any person who +intends to visit distant countries, with a view of informing either +himself or others, should be wanting in so necessary a piece of skill. +And, to enforce this argument still farther, I must add, that, besides +the uses of drawing already mentioned, there is one which, though not +so obvious, is yet perhaps of more consequence than all that has been +hitherto urged; I mean the strength and distinguishing power it adds +to some of our faculties. This appears from hence, that those who are +used to draw objects observe them with more accuracy than others who +are not habituated to that practice. For we may easily find, by a +little experience, that when we view any object, however simple, our +attention or memory is scarcely at any time so strong as to enable us, +when we have turned our eyes away from it, to recollect exactly every +part it consisted of, and to recall all the circular stances of its +appearance; since, on examination, it will be discovered, that in some +we were mistaken, and others we had totally overlooked. But he who is +accustomed to draw what he sees, is, at the same time, accustomed to +rectify this inattention; for, by confronting his ideas, copied on +the paper, with the object he intends to represent, he finds out +what circumstance has deceived him in its appearance; and hence he at +length acquires the habit of observing much more at one view than he +could ever have done without his practice and proficiency in drawing. + +If what has been said merits the attention of travellers of all sorts, +it is, I think, more particularly applicable to the gentlemen of the +navy, since, without drawing and planning, neither charts nor views of +land can be taken; and without these it is sufficiently evident that +navigation is at a full stand. It is doubtless from a persuasion of +the utility of these qualifications, that his majesty has established +a drawing-master at Portsmouth, for the instruction of those who are +presumed to be hereafter entrusted with the command of his royal +navy; and though some have been so far misled as to suppose that the +perfection of sea officers consisted in a turn of mind and temper +resembling the boisterous element they have to deal with, and have +condemned all literature and science, as effeminate and derogatory +to that ferocity, which, they would falsely persuade us, was the most +unerring characteristic of courage, yet it is to be hoped that +such absurdities have not at any time been authorized by the public +opinion, and that the belief daily diminishes. If those who adhere +to these mischievous positions were capable of being influenced by +reason, or swayed by example, I should think it sufficient for their +conviction to observe, that the most valuable drawings inserted in +the following work, though done with such skill that even professed +artists can with difficulty imitate them, were taken by Mr Piercy +Bret, one of Mr Anson's lieutenants, and since captain of the Lion +man-of-war, who, in his memorable engagement with the Elizabeth, [for +the importance of the service, or the resolution with which it was +conducted, inferior to none this age has seen,] has given ample proof +that a proficiency in the arts I have been recommending, is extremely +consistent with the most exemplary bravery, and the most distinguished +skill in every function belonging to a sea officer. + +Indeed, when the many branches of science are considered, of which +even the common practice of navigation is composed, and the many +improvements which men of skill have added to this practice within +these few years, it would induce one to believe that the advantages +of reflection and speculative knowledge were in no profession more +eminent than in that of a naval officer; for, not to mention some +expertness in geography, geometry, and astronomy, which it would be +dishonourable for him to be without, as his journal and his estimate +of the daily position of the ship are founded on particular branches +of these sciences, it may well be supposed, that the management and +working of a ship, the discovery of her most eligible position in the +water, usually called her trim, and the disposition of her sails in +the most advantageous manner, are articles in which the knowledge +of mechanics cannot but be greatly assistant. And, perhaps, the +application of this kind of knowledge to naval subjects may produce +as great improvements in sailing and working a ship, as it has already +done in many other matters conducive to the ease and convenience of +human life; since, when the fabric of a ship and the variety of her +sails are considered, together with the artificial contrivances for +adapting them to her different motions, as it cannot be doubted but +these things have been brought about by more than ordinary sagacity +and invention; so neither can it be doubted but that, in some +conjunctures, a speculative and scientific turn of mind may find out +the means of directing and disposing this complicated mechanism much +more advantageously than can be done by mere habit, or by a servile +copying of what others may have, perhaps erroneously, practised in +similar emergencies. But it is time to finish this digression, and to +leave the reader to the perusal of the ensuing work, which, with how +little art soever it may be executed, will yet, from the importance +of the subject, and the utility and excellence of the materials, merit +some share of the public attention. + + + +SECTION I. + +_Of the Equipment of the Squadron, and the Incidents relating to it, +from its first Appointment to its setting Sail from St Helens._ + +The squadron under the command of Mr Anson, of which I here propose to +recite the most material proceedings, having undergone many changes in +its destination, its force, and its equipment, during the ten months +between its original appointment and its final sailing from St Helens, +I conceive the history of these alterations is a detail necessary to +be made public, both for the honour of those who first planned and +promoted this enterprize, and for the justification of those who have +been entrusted with its execution; since it will from hence appear, +that the accidents the expedition was afterwards exposed to, and which +prevented it from producing all the national advantages the strength +of the squadron and the expectation of the public seemed to presage, +were principally owing to a series of interruptions, which delayed the +commander in the course of his preparations, and which it exceeded his +utmost industry either to avoid or get removed. + +When, in the latter end of the summer 1739, it was foreseen that a +war with Spain was inevitable, it was the opinion of some considerable +persons, then trusted with the administration of affairs, that the +most prudent step the nation could take, on the breaking out of the +war, was attacking that crown in her distant settlements; for by this +means, as at that time there was the greatest probability of success, +it was supposed that we should cut off the principal resources of the +enemy, and should reduce them to the necessity of sincerely desiring +a peace, as they would be deprived of the returns of that treasure by +which alone they could be enabled to carry on a war. + +In pursuance of these sentiments, several projects were examined, +and several resolutions were taken by the council. And, in all these +deliberations, it was from the first determined, that George +Anson, Esq. then captain of the Centurion, should be employed as +commander-in-chief of an expedition of this kind: and, he at that time +being absent on a cruize, a vessel was dispatched to his station so +early as the beginning of September, to order him to return with his +ship to Portsmouth. And soon after he came there, that is, on the +10th November following, he received a letter from Sir Charles +Wager, directing him to repair to London, and to attend the board of +Admiralty; where, when he arrived, he was informed by Sir Charles, +that two squadrons would be immediately fitted out for two secret +expeditions, which, however, would have some connection with each +other; and that he, Mr Anson, was intended to command one of them; and +that Mr Cornwall, who hath since lost his life gloriously in defence +of his country's honour, was to command the other; that the squadron +under Mr Anson was to take on board three independent companies of an +hundred men each, and Bland's regiment of foot; that Colonel Bland was +likewise to embark with his regiment, and to command the land-forces; +and that, as soon as this squadron could be fitted for sea, they were +to sail, with express orders to touch at no place till they came to +Java-Head in the East-Indies; that they were there only to stop to +take in water, and thence to proceed directly to the city of Manilla +in Luconia, one of the Philippine islands; that the other squadron, +of equal force with this commanded by Mr Anson, was intended to pass +round Cape Horn into the South Seas, to range along that coast; and, +after cruizing upon the enemy in those parts, and attempting their +settlements, this squadron, in its return, was to rendezvous at +Manilla, there to join the squadron under Mr Anson, where they were +to refresh their men, and to refit their ships, and perhaps receive +orders for other considerable enterprizes. + +This scheme was doubtless extremely well projected, and could not +but have greatly advanced the public service, and the reputation +and fortune of those concerned in its execution; for, had Mr Anson +proceeded to Manilla at the time and in the manner proposed by Sir +Charles Wager, he would in all probability have arrived there before +they had received any advice of the war between us and Spain, and +consequently before they had been in the least prepared for the +reception of an enemy, or had any apprehensions of their danger. The +city of Manilla might well be supposed to have been at that time in +the same defenceless condition with all the other Spanish settlements, +just at the breaking out of the war; that is, their fortifications +neglected, and in many places decayed; their cannon dismounted, or +rendered useless by the mouldering of their carriages; their magazines +both of military stores and provisions, all empty; their garrisons +unpaid, and consequently thin, ill affected, and dispirited; and the +royal chests of Peru, whence alone all these disorders could receive +redress, drained to the very bottom. This, from the intercepted +letters of their viceroys and governors, is well known to have been +the defenceless state of Panama, and the other places on the coast of +the South Sea, for near a twelvemonth after our declaration of war. +And it cannot be supposed that the city of Manilla, removed still +farther by almost half the circumference of the globe, should have +experienced from the Spanish government a greater share of attention +for its security than Panama, and the other important ports in Peru +and Chili, on which their possession of that immense empire depends. +Indeed, it is now well known that Manilla was at that time incapable +of making any considerable defence, and, in all probability, would +have surrendered only on the appearance of our squadron before it. The +consequence of this city, and the island it stands on, may, in some +measure, be estimated from the known healthiness of its air, +the excellence of its port and bay, the number and wealth of its +inhabitants, and the very extensive and beneficial commerce it carries +on to the principal ports in the East-Indies and China, and its +exclusive trade to Acapulco; the returns for which alone, being made +in silver, are, upon the lowest calculation, not less than three +millions of dollars yearly. + +On this scheme Sir Charles Wager was so intent, that, on the 18th +December, a few days only before this first conference, Mr Anson +received an order to take under his command the Argyle, Severn, Pearl, +Wager, and Tryal sloop; and other orders were issued to him, in +the same month and in December, relating to the victualling of this +squadron. But, on attending the Admiralty in the beginning of January, +1740, Mr Anson was informed by Sir Charles Wager, that, for reasons +with which he was not acquainted, the expedition to Manilla was laid +aside. It may well be conceived that Mr Anson was extremely chagrined +at losing the command of so infallible, so honourable, and in every +respect so desirable an enterprize; especially as he had already, at +a very great expence, made the necessary provision for his own +accommodation in this voyage, which he had reason to expect would +prove very long. However, to render this appointment more tolerable, +Sir Charles Wager informed him that the expedition to the South Sea +was still intended; and that he, Mr Anson, and his squadron, as their +first destination was now countermanded, should be employed in that +service. And, on the 10th January, 1740, he received his commission, +appointing him Commander-in-chief of the before-mentioned squadron, +the Argyle being in the course of preparation exchanged for the +Gloucester, with which he sailed above eight months afterwards from St +Helens. On this change of destination, the equipment of the squadron +was still prosecuted with as much vigour as ever; and the victualling, +and whatever depended on the commodore, was soon so far advanced, that +he conceived the ships might be capable of putting to sea the +instant he should receive his final orders, of which he was in daily +expectation. + +At length, on the 28th June, 1740, the Duke of Newcastle, principal +secretary of state, delivered to him his majesty's instructions, dated +on the 31st of January preceding, with an additional instruction from +the lords justices, dated 19th June. On the receipt of these, Mr Anson +immediately repaired to Spithead, with a resolution to sail with the +first fair wind, flattering himself that all his difficulties were now +at an end: for though he knew by the muster that his squadron wanted +three hundred men of their complement, a deficiency he had not, with +all his assiduity, been able to get supplied, yet as Sir Charles Wager +had informed him that an order from the board of Admiralty was sent to +Sir John Norris to spare him the numbers which he wanted; he doubted +not of its being complied with. But, on his arrival at Portsmouth, he +found himself greatly mistaken and disappointed in this persuasion: +for, on application, Sir John Norris told him he could spare him none, +as he wanted men for his own fleet. This occasioned an inevitable +and very considerable delay, and it was the end of July before this +deficiency was by any means supplied, and all that was then done +was extremely short of his necessities and expectation; for Admiral +Balchen, who succeeded to the command at Spithead, after Sir John +Norris had sailed to the westward, instead of three hundred sailors +which Mr Anson wanted of his complement, ordered on board the squadron +an hundred and seventy men only, of which thirty-two were from the +hospital and sick-quarters, thirty-seven men from the Salisbury, with +three officers and ninety-eight marines of Colonel Lowther's regiment; +and these were all that were ever granted to make up the forementioned +deficiency. + +But the commodore's mortification did not end here. It has been +already observed, that it was at first intended that Colonel Bland's +regiment, and three independent companies of an hundred men each, +should embark as land-forces on board the squadron. But this +disposition was now changed; and all the land-forces that were to +be allowed were five hundred invalids, to be collected from the +out-pensioners of Chelsea College. As these consisted of soldiers, +who, from their age, wounds, and other circumstances, were incapable +of serving in marching regiments, Mr Anson was much chagrined at +having such a decrepid detachment allotted to him; for he was fully +persuaded that the greatest part of them would perish long before they +could arrive at the scene of action, since the delays he had already +experienced necessarily confined his passage round Cape Horn to the +most rigorous season of the year. Sir Charles Wager joined in opinion +with the commodore, that invalids were by no means proper for this +service, and strenuously solicited to have them, exchanged. But he was +told, that persons who were considered better judges of soldiers than +he or Mr Anson, thought them the properest men that could be employed +on this occasion; and, upon this determination, they were ordered on +board the squadron on the 5th of August. But, instead of five hundred, +there came no more on board than two hundred and fifty-nine; for all +those who had limbs and strength to walk out of Portsmouth deserted, +leaving only those behind who were literally invalids, most of them +being sixty years of age, and some upwards of seventy. Indeed, it +is difficult to conceive a more moving scene than the embarkation of +these unhappy veterans: they were themselves extremely averse from +the service in which they were engaged, and fully apprized of all the +disasters they were afterwards exposed to, the apprehensions of +which were strongly marked by the concern which appeared in their +countenances, which was mixed with no small degree of indignation to +be thus hurried from their repose into a fatiguing employ, to which +neither the strength of their bodies, nor the vigour of their minds, +were any way proportioned; and in which, without seeing the face of an +enemy, or in the least promoting the success of the enterprize, they +would in all probability uselessly perish by lingering and painful +diseases; and this, too, after they had spent the activity and +strength of their youth in the service of their country. + +I cannot but observe, on this melancholy incident, how extremely +unfortunate it was, both to this aged and diseased detachment, and +to the expedition in which they were engaged, that, amongst all the +out-pensioners of Chelsea College, which were supposed to amount to +two thousand men, the most crazy and infirm only should be called out +for so laborious and perilous an undertaking; for it was well known, +however unfit invalids in general might be for this service, yet, by a +prudent choice, there might have been found amongst them five hundred +men who had some remains of vigour; and Mr Anson fully expected that +the best of them would have been allotted to him; whereas the +whole detachment sent seemed to be made up of the most decrepid and +miserable objects that could be collected out of the whole body; and +by the desertion already mentioned, even these were cleared of the +little strength and health which were to be found among them, and he +had to take up with such as were much fitter for an infirmary than for +any military duty. + +It is here also necessary to mention another material particular in +the equipment of this squadron. After it was determined that Mr Anson +should be sent to the South Sea, it was proposed to Mr Anson to take +with him two persons under the denomination of agent-victuallers. +Those mentioned for this employment had been formerly in the Spanish +American colonies, in the service of the South-Sea Company, and it +was supposed, that, by their knowledge and intelligence on that coast, +they might often procure provisions for the squadron by compact with +the inhabitants, when they were not to be got by force of arms. These +agent-victuallers were, for this purpose, to be allowed to carry +to the value of fifteen thousand pounds in merchandize on board the +squadron, as they represented that it would be much easier to procure +provisions in exchange for goods, than for the value of the same goods +in money. Whatever colours were given to this scheme, it was difficult +to persuade the generality of mankind that it was not principally +intended for the enrichment of the agents, by the beneficial commerce +they proposed to carry on upon that coast. From the beginning, Mr +Anson objected both to the appointment of agent-victuallers and to +allowing them to carry a cargo on board the squadron; for he conceived +that in those few amicable ports where the squadron might touch, +he needed not their assistance to contract for any provisions these +places afforded; and, when on the enemy's coast, he did not imagine +they could ever procure him the necessaries he should want, unless +the military operations of his squadron were to be regulated by the +ridiculous views of their trading projects, with which he was resolved +not to comply. All that he thought the government ought to have +done, of this kind, was to put on board, to the value of two or three +thousand pounds, of such goods only as were suitable for the Indians, +or the Spanish planters on the less cultivated parts of the coast, as +it was in such places only that he considered it might be worth +while to truck with the enemy for provisions, and it was sufficiently +evident that a very small cargo would suffice for such places. + +Although the commodore objected both to the appointment of these +officers and to their project, of the ill success of which he had +no question, yet, as they had insinuated that their scheme, besides +victualling the squadron, might contribute to the settling a trade on +that coast which might afterwards be carried on without difficulty, +and might become of very considerable national advantage, they were +much listened to by several considerable persons; and, of the fifteen +thousand pounds, which was to be the amount of their cargo, the +government agreed to advance them ten thousand pounds upon imprest, +and the remaining five thousand they raised on bottomry bonds, and the +goods purchased with this latter sum were all that were put on +board the squadron, how much soever their amount might be afterwards +magnified by common report. This cargo was shipped at first in the +Wager store-ship, and one of the victuallers, no part of it being +admitted on board the men-of-war; but, when the commodore was at St +Catharine's, he considered, in case the squadron might be separated, +that it might be pretended that some of the ships were disappointed of +provisions for want of a cargo to truck with, wherefore he distributed +some of the least bulky commodities on board the men-of-war, leaving +the remainder principally on board the Wager, in which it was lost, +and more of the goods perishing, by various accidents to be recited +afterwards, and as no part of them being disposed of on the coast, +the few that came home to England, when sold, did not produce above a +fourth part of the original cost. So true was the commodore's judgment +of the event of this project, which had been considered by many as +infallibly productive of immense gain. + +We return to the transactions at Portsmouth. To supply the place +of the two hundred and forty invalids who had deserted, there were +ordered on board two hundred and ten marines, drafted from different +regiments. These were raw and undisciplined men, just raised, and had +scarcely any thing more of the soldier than their regimentals, none of +them having been so far trained as to be permitted to fire. The last +of these detachments came on board on the 8th August, and on the 10th +the squadron dropped down from Spithead to St Helen's, there to wait +for a wind to proceed on the expedition. The delays we had already +suffered had not yet spent all their influence; for we were now +advanced to that season of the year when the westerly winds are +usually very prevalent and violent; and it was thought proper that +we should put to sea in company with the fleet commanded by Admiral +Balchen, and the expedition under Lord Cathcart. As we now made up +in all twenty-one sail of men-of-war, and one hundred and twenty-four +sail of merchant ships and transports, we had no hopes of getting out +of the channel with so large a fleet, without the continuance of a +fair wind for a considerable time, and this was what we had every day +less and less reason to expect, as the time of the equinox drew near; +wherefore our golden dreams and ideal possession of the Peruvian +treasures grew every day more faint, and the difficulties and dangers +of the passage round Cape Horn, in the winter season, filled our +imaginations in their room. It was forty days from our arrival at St +Helens to our final departure from that place; and even then, having +orders to proceed without Lord Cathcart, we tided down the channel +with a contrary wind. But this interval of forty days was not free +from the displeasing fatigue of often setting sail, and being as often +obliged to return, nor exempt from dangers greater than have been +sometimes undergone in surrounding the globe. For the wind coming fair +for the first time on the 23d August, we got under sail, and Admiral +Balchen shewed himself truly solicitous to have proceeded to sea; but +the wind soon returned to its old quarter, and obliged us to put +back to St Helens, not without considerable hazard, and some damage +received by two of the transports, which ran foul of each other when +tacking. We made two or three other attempts to sail, but without any +better success; and, on the 6th September, being returned to anchor +at St Helens, after one of those fruitless attempts, the wind blew so +fresh that the whole fleet had to strike yards and topmasts to prevent +drifting: Yet, notwithstanding this precaution, the Centurion drove +next evening, and brought both cables a-head, when we were in no small +danger of getting foul of the Prince Frederick, a seventy-gun ship, +which was moored only a small distance under our stern, but we happily +escaped, in consequence of her drifting at the same time, by which she +preserved her distance, yet we did not think ourselves safe till we at +last let go our sheet anchor, which fortunately brought us up. + +We were in some measure relieved from this lingering and vexatious +situation on the 9th September, by an order then received by +Commodore Anson, from the lords justices, to put to sea on the first +opportunity, with his own squadron only, if Lord Cathcart should not +be ready. Being thus freed from the troublesome company of so large +a fleet, our commodore resolved to weigh and tide it down channel, +as soon as the weather should become sufficiently moderate, and this +might easily have been done by our squadron full two months sooner, +had the orders of the Admiralty for supplying us with seamen been +punctually complied with, and had we met with none of those other +delays mentioned in this narration. Even now, our hopes of a speedy +departure were somewhat damped, by a subsequent order which Mr Anson +received on the 12th September, by which he was required to take under +his convoy the St Albans and the Turkey fleet, and to join the Dragon +and the Winchester, with the Straits and American trade, at Torbay or +Plymouth, and to proceed with them to sea as far as their way and +ours lay together. This encumbrance of convoy gave us some uneasiness, +fearing it might lengthen our passage to Madeira: However, having now +the command to himself, Mr Anson resolved to tide down channel with +the first moderate weather; and, that the junction of the convoy +might occasion as little loss of time as possible, he immediately sent +directions to Torbay that the fleet he was there to take charge of +should be in readiness to join him instantly on his approach. And at +last, on the 18th September, he weighed from St Helens, and, though +the wind was at first contrary, had the good fortune to get clear of +the channel in four days, as will be more particularly related in the +ensuing section. + +Having thus gone through the respective steps taken in the equipment +of this squadron, it must be sufficiently obvious how different an +aspect the expedition bore at its first appointment in the beginning +of January, from what it did in the latter end of September, when +it left the channel, and how much its numbers, its strength, and the +probability of its success were diminished by the various incidents +which took place in that interval. For, instead of having all our old +and ordinary seamen exchanged for such as were young and able, +which the commodore was at first promised, and having our complement +complete to its full number, we were obliged to retain our first +crews, which were very indifferent; and a deficiency of three hundred +men in our numbers was no otherwise made up than by sending on board +an hundred and seventy men, the greatest part of whom were discharged +from hospitals, or new-raised marines who had never been at sea +before. In the land-forces allotted to us, the change was still more +disadvantageous; as, instead of Bland's regiment of foot, which was +an old one, and three independent companies of an hundred men each, +we had only four hundred and seventy invalids and marines, one part of +whom were incapable of action, by their age and infirmities, and the +other part useless, by ignorance of their duty. But the diminution of +the strength of the squadron was not the greatest inconveniency which +attended these alterations; for the contests, representations, and +difficulties which they continually produced, as we have seen above +that the authority of the Admiralty in these cases was not always +submitted to, occasioned a delay and waste of time, which, in its +consequences, was the source of all the disasters to which the +enterprize was afterwards exposed. For, owing to these circumstances, +we were forced to make our passage round Cape Horn at the most +tempestuous season of the year, whence proceeded the separation of our +squadron, the loss of numbers of our men, and the imminent hazard of +oar total destruction. By this delay also, the enemy had been so well +informed of our designs, that a person who had been employed in the +service of the South-Sea Company, and arrived from Panama three or +four days before we left Portsmouth, was able to relate to Mr Anson +most of the particulars of the destination and strength of our +squadron, from what he had learnt from the Spaniards before he +left them. This was afterwards confirmed by a more extraordinary +circumstance; for we shall find, that when the Spaniards, fully +satisfied of our expedition being intended for the South Seas, had +fitted out a squadron before us, which had so far got the start as +to arrive before us at the island of Madeira, the commander of this +squadron was so well instructed in the form and make of Mr Anson's +broad pendant, and had imitated it so exactly, that he thereby decoyed +the Pearl, one of our squadron, within gun-shot of him, before the +captain of the Pearl was able to discover the deception. + + + +SECTION II. + +_The Passage from St Helens to the Island of Madeira, with a short +Account of that Island, and of our Stay there._ + +As observed in the preceding section, the squadron weighed from +St Helens with a contrary wind on the 18th of September, 1740, our +commodore proposing to tide down the channel, as he less dreaded the +inconveniences we might have thereby to struggle with, than the risk +he should run of ruining the enterprize by an uncertain, and, in +all probability, a tedious attendance for a fair wind. The squadron +allotted for this expedition consisted of five men-of-war, a sloop of +war, and two victuallers. These were, the Centurion of 60 guns, and +400 men, George Anson, Esq. commander; the Gloucester, of 50 guns, and +300 men, Richard Norris, commander; the Severn, of 50 guns, and 300 +men, the Honourable Edward Legg, commander; the Pearl, of 40 guns, and +250 men, Matthew Mitchell, commander; the Wager, of 28 guns, and 160 +men, Dandy Kidd, commander; the Tryal sloop, of 8 guns, and 100 men, +the Honourable John Murray, commander. The two victuallers were pinks, +the largest of about four hundred tons burden; and these were to +attend us till the provisions we had on board were so far consumed as +to make room for the additional quantity they carried, which was then +to be taken into our ships, and they were to be discharged. Besides +the before-mentioned complements of men borne by the ships as their +crews, there were embarked in our squadron about 470 invalids +and marines, as particularly mentioned in last section, under +the denomination of land-forces, which were commanded by +Lieutenant-Colonel Cracherode. + +With this squadron, together with the St Albans and Lark, and the +Turkey trade under their convoy, we tided down channel for the first +forty-eight hours. In the morning of the 20th, we discovered the +Dragon, Winchester, South-Sea Castle, and Rye, with a number of +merchantmen under their convoy, waiting for us off the Ram-head. We +joined there the same day about noon, the commodore having orders to +see them, together with the convoy of the St Albans and Lark, as far +as their course and ours lay together. When we came in sight of this +last-mentioned ship, Mr Anson first hoisted his broad pendant, and +was saluted by all the men-of-war in company. After joining this last +convoy, we made up eleven men-of-war, and about 150 sail of merchant +ships, consisting of the Turkey, the Straits, and the American trades. +The same day Mr Anson made a signal for all captains of men-of-war +to come on board, when he delivered them their fighting and sailing +instructions, and then we all stood to the S.W. with a fair wind; so +that next day at noon, being the 21st, we had run forty leagues beyond +the Ram-head. Being now clear of the land, our commodore, to render +our view more extensive, ordered Captain Mitchell, in the Pearl, to +make sail two leagues a-head of the fleet every morning, and to repair +to his station every evening. Thus we proceeded till the 25th, when +the Winchester, with the American convoy, made the concerted signal +for leave to separate, and this being answered by the commodore, they +left us, which, was done by the St Albans and the Dragon on the 24th, +with the Turkey and Straits convoys. + +There now remained only our own squadron and the two victuallers, with +which we stood on our course for the island of Madeira. But the winds +were so contrary, that we had the mortification to be forty days on +our passage to that island from St Helens, though it is often known +to be done in ten or twelve. This delay was most unpleasant, and was +productive of much discontent and ill humour among our people, of +which these only can have an adequate idea who have experienced a +similar situation: For, besides the peevishness and despondency, which +foul and contrary winds, and a lingering voyage, never fail to produce +on all occasions, we in particular had substantial reasons for being +greatly alarmed at this unexpected impediment; since, as we departed +from England much later than we ought to have done, we had placed +almost all our hope of success on the chance of retrieving in some +measure at sea, the time we had so unhappily wasted at Spithead and St +Helens. At last, on Monday the 25th October, at five in the morning, +we made the land to our great joy, and came to anchor in the afternoon +in Madeira road, in forty fathoms, the Brazen Head bearing from us E. +by S. the Loo N.N.W. and the Great Church N.N.E. We had hardly let go +our anchor when an English privateer sloop ran under our stern, and +saluted the commodore with nine guns, which we returned with five. +Next day the English consul visited the commodore, and was saluted +with nine guns on coming on board. + +The island of Madeira, where we now arrived, is famous through all our +American settlements for its excellent wines, which seem designed by +Providence for the refreshment of the inhabitants of the torrid zone. +It is situated in a fine climate, in lat. 32 deg. 27' N. and long. from +London 18 deg. 30' to 19 deg. 30' W. by our different reckonings, though laid +down in the charts in 47 deg..[1] The whole island is composed of one +continued hill of considerable height, extending from east to +west; the declivity of which, on the south side, is cultivated and +interspersed with vineyards. In the middle of this slope the merchants +have their country seats, which contribute to form a very agreeable +prospect. There is but one considerable town, named Fonchiale, on +the south part of the island, situated at the bottom of a large +bay. Towards the sea it is defended by a high wall with a battery of +cannon, besides a castle on the Loo, which is a rock standing in the +water at a small distance from the shore. Tonchiale is the only place +of trade, and indeed the only place where it is possible for a boat to +land; and even there the beach is so covered with great stones, and so +violent a surf beats continually upon it, that the commodore did not +care to venture the long-boats of our ships in fetching off water, +and therefore ordered the captains to employ Portuguese boats on that +service. + +[Footnote 1: The charts are however the most accurate, as that is the +long. of the centre of Madeira, in our best modern maps.--E.] + +We continued about a week at this island, watering our ships, and +providing the squadron with wine and other refreshments. While here, +on the 3d November, Captain Richard Norris signified to the commodore, +by letter, his desire to quit the command of the Gloucester, in order +to return to England for the recovery of his health. The commodore +complied with this request, and was pleased to appoint Captain Matthew +Mitchell to command the Gloucester in his room, to remove Captain Kidd +from the Wager to the Pearl, and Captain Murray from the Tryal sloop +to the Wager, giving the command of the Tryal to Lieutenant +Cheap. These promotions being settled, with other changes in the +lieutenancies, the commodore, on the 4th November, gave to the +captains their orders, appointing St Jago, one of the Cape Verd +islands, to be the first place of rendezvous in case of separation; +and, if they did not meet the Centurion there, directing them to make +the best of their way to the island of St Catharine on the coast of +Brazil. The water for the squadron being that day completed, and each +ship supplied with as much wine and other refreshments as they +could take in, we weighed anchor in the afternoon, and took leave of +Madeira. But, before continuing the narrative of our transactions, +I think it necessary to give some account of the proceedings of the +enemy, and of the measures they had taken to render all our designs +abortive. + +On visiting the governor of Madeira, Mr Anson was informed by him, +that for three or four days in the latter end of October, there had +appeared to the westward of the island seven or eight ships of the +line and a _patache_, which last was sent close in with the land every +day. The governor assured our commodore, upon his honour, that no +person on the island had either given them intelligence, or had any +sort of communication with them. He believed them to be either French +or Spanish, but was rather inclined to suppose the latter. On this +intelligence, Mr Anson sent an officer in a clean sloop eight leagues +to the westwards, to reconnoitre them, and, if possible, to discover +what they were: But the officer returned without having seen them, so +that we still remained in uncertainty; yet we could not but conjecture +that this fleet was intended to put a stop, if possible, to our +expedition; and, had they cruized to the eastward of the island, +instead of the westward, they could not have failed in doing so: for, +as in that case they must infallibly have fallen in with us, we should +have been under the necessity of throwing overboard vast quantities of +provisions, to clear our ships for action; and this alone, independent +of the event of the action, would have effectually prevented our +progress. This was so obvious a measure, that we could not help +imagining reasons which might have prevented them from pursuing it. +We supposed, therefore, that this French or Spanish squadron, having +advice that we were to sail in company with Admiral Balchen and Lord +Cathcart's expedition, might not think it adviseable to meet with us +till we had parted company, from apprehension of being over-matched, +and supposed we might not separate before our arrival at this island. +These were our speculations at the time, from which we had reason to +suppose we might still fall in with them, in our way to the Cape +de Verd islands. We were afterwards persuaded, in the course of our +expedition, that this was the Spanish squadron commanded by Don Joseph +Pizarro, sent out purposely to traverse the views and enterprizes of +our squadron, to which they were greatly superior in strength. As this +Spanish armament was so nearly connected with our expedition, and as +the catastrophe, if underwent, though not effected by our force, was +yet a considerable advantage to this nation produced in consequence +of our equipment; I have, in the following section, given a summary +account of their proceedings, from their first setting out from Spain +in 1740, till the Asia, the only ship of the whole squadron that +returned to Europe, got back to Corunna in the beginning of the year +1746. + + + +SECTION III. + +_History of the Spanish Squadron commanded by Don Joseph Pizarro._ + +The squadron fitted out by the court of Spain, to attend our motions, +and traverse our projects, we supposed to have been the ships seen +off Madeira. As this force was sent out particularly against our +expedition, I cannot but imagine that the following history of its +casualties, so far as has come to my knowledge, by intercepted letters +and other information, is an essential part of the present work. For +it will from hence appear, that we were the occasion of a considerable +part of the Spanish naval power being diverted from prosecuting the +ambitious views of that court in Europe; and whatever men and ships +were lost by the enemy in this undertaking, were lost in consequence +of the precautions they took to secure themselves against our +expedition. + +This squadron, besides two ships bound for the West Indies, which did +not part company till after they left Madeira, was composed of the +following men-of-war, commanded by Don Joseph Pizarro. The Asia of 66 +guns and 700 men, the admiral's ship; the Guipuscoa of 74 guns and 700 +men; the Hermiona of 54 guns and 500 men; the Esperanza of 50 guns and +450 men; the St Estevan of 40 guns and 350 men; and a patache of 20 +guns. + +Over and above their complements of sailors and marines, these ships +had on board an old Spanish regiment of foot, intended to reinforce +the garrisons on the coast of the South-Sea. Having cruised some days +to leeward of Madeira, as formerly mentioned, they left that station +in the beginning of November, and steered for the Rio de la Plata, +where they arrived on the 5th of January O.S. and coming to anchor in +the bay of Maldonado, at the mouth of that river, their admiral sent +immediately to Buenos Ayres for a supply of provisions, having left +Spain with only four months provisions on board. While waiting this +supply, they received intelligence, by the treachery of the Portuguese +governor of St Catharines, of Mr Anson having arrived at that island +on the 21st December preceding, and that he was preparing to put to +sea again with the utmost expedition. Notwithstanding his superior +force, Pizarro had his reasons, and some say his orders, for avoiding +our squadron any where short of the South-Sea. He was, besides, +extremely desirous of getting round Cape Horn before us, imagining +that alone would effectually baffle all our designs; wherefore, +hearing that we were in his neighbourhood, and that we should be soon +ready to proceed for Cape Horn, he weighed anchor with his five large +ships, the Patache being disabled and condemned, and the men taken +out of her; and, after a stay of seventeen days only, got under sail +without his provisions, which arrived at Maldonado within a day or two +after his departure. Notwithstanding this precipitation, we put to sea +from St Catharines four days before he did from Maldonado; and at one +part of our passage to Cape Horn the two squadrons were so near, that +the Pearl, one of our ships, being separated from the rest, fell in +with the Spanish fleet, and, mistaking the Asia for the Centurion, +got within gun-shot of the Asia before the mistake was discovered, and +narrowly escaped being taken. + +As it was the 22d January when the Spaniards weighed from Maldonado, +they could not expect to get into the latitude of Cape Horn before the +equinox; and, as they had reason to apprehend very tempestuous weather +in doubling it at that season, while the Spanish sailors, for the most +part accustomed to a fair-weather country, might be supposed averse +from so dangerous and fatiguing a navigation, the better to encourage +them, some part of their pay was advanced to them in European goods, +which they were to have leave to dispose of in the South-Seas, that +so the hopes of the great profits they were to make of their ventures, +might animate them in their duty, and render them less disposed +to repine at the labours, hardships, and perils they might in all +probability meet with, before their arrival on the coast of Peru. + +Towards the latter end of February, Pizarro and his squadron got into +the latitude of Cape Horn, and then stood to the westwards in order +to double that southern promontory. But, in the night of the last of +February O.S. while turning to windward with this view, the Guipuscoa, +Hermiona, and Espranza were separated from the admiral. On the 6th +March following, the Guipuscoa was separated from the other two; and +next day, being that after we passed the Straits of Le Maire, there +came on a most furious storm at N.W. which, in spite of all their +efforts, drove the whole squadron to the eastward, and, after several +fruitless attempts, obliged them to bear away for the river of Plate. +Pizarro arrived there in the Asia about the middle of May, and was +followed a few days after by the Esperanza and Estevan. The Hermiona +was supposed to have foundered, as she was never more heard of; and +the Guipuscoa was run on shore and destroyed on the coast of Brazil. +The calamities of all kinds which this squadron underwent in their +unsuccessful attempt to double Cape Horn, can only be paralleled by +what we ourselves experienced in the same climate, when buffeted by +the same storms. There was indeed some diversity in our distresses, +rendering it difficult to decide whose situation was most worthy of +commiseration; for, to all the miseries and misfortunes we experienced +in common, as shattered rigging, leaky ships, and the fatigues and +despondency necessarily attendant on these disasters, there was +superadded on board our squadron the ravages of a most destructive +and incurable disease; and in the Spanish squadron the devastation of +famine. + +It has been already observed, that this squadron left Spain with only +four months provisions on board, and even that, it is said, at short +allowance, either owing to the hurry of their outfit, or presuming +upon a supply at Buenos Ayres; so that, when their continuance at sea +was prolonged, by the storms they met with off Cape Horn, a month +or more beyond their expectation, they were reduced to such infinite +distress, that rats, when they could be caught, sold for four dollars +a-piece; and a sailor who died in one of the ships, had his death +concealed by his brother for some days, who lay all that time in +the hammock with the corpse, that he might receive the dead man's +allowance of provisions. In this dreadful situation, if their horrors +were capable of augmentation, they were alarmed by discovering +a conspiracy among the marines on board the Asia, who proposed +massacring the officers and whole crew, their sole motive for this +bloody resolution appearing to be the desire of relieving their +hunger, by appropriating the whole provisions in the ship to +themselves. This design was prevented, when just on the point of +execution, by means of one of their confessors, and three of the +ringleaders were immediately put to death. By the complicated +distresses of fatigue, sickness, and famine, the three ships that +escaped lost the greatest part of their men. The admiral's ship, the +Asia, arrived at Monte Video in the Rio Plata with only half her crew. +The Estevan, when she anchored in the bay of Barragan had also lost +half her men. The Esperanza was still more unfortunate, for of 450 +hands she brought with her from Spain, only 58 remained alive. The +whole regiment of foot perished except sixty men. To give a more +distinct idea of what they underwent upon this occasion, I shall +present a short account of the fate of the Guipuscoa, extracted from a +letter written by Don Joseph Mindinuetta, her captain, to a person of +distinction at Lima, a copy of which fell into our hands when in the +South-Sea. + +Having separated on the 6th March in a fog from the Hermiona and +Esperanza, being then, as I suppose, to the S.E. of States Land, and +plying to the westward, it blew a furious storm at N.W. the succeeding +night, which, at half past ten, split his main-sail, and obliged him +to bear away with his foresail. The ship now went ten knots an hour +with a prodigious sea, and often ran her gangway under water. He +likewise sprung his main-mast, and the ship made so much water that +she could not be freed by four pumps assisted by bailing. On the 9th +the wind became calm, but the sea continued so high that the ship, in +rolling, opened all her upper works and seams, and started the butt +ends of her planks, and the greatest part of her top-timbers, the +bolts being drawn by the violence of the roll. In this condition, with +additional disasters to the hull and rigging, they continued beating +westward to the 12th, when they were in lat. 60 deg. S. and in great want +of provisions, numbers perishing daily by the fatigue of pumping, and +the survivors quite dispirited by labour, hunger, and the severity +of the weather, their decks being covered with snow above a foot in +depth. Finding the wind fixed in the west and blowing strong, and +their passage that way impossible, they resolved to bear away for the +Rio Plata. On the 22d they had to throw overboard all their upper-deck +guns and an anchor, and were obliged to take six turns of the cable +round the ship to prevent her from opening and falling to pieces. On +the 4th of April, in calm weather, but with a very heavy sea, the +ship rolled so much that her main-mast came by the board, and was soon +after followed by the fore and mizen masts, after which they had +to cut away the boltsprit, to diminish, if possible, the leakage +forwards. By this time two hundred and fifty of the men had perished +by hunger and fatigue. Those who were capable of working at the pumps, +at which every officer took his turn without exception, were only +allowed an ounce and a half of biscuit daily; while those who were +weak and sickly, so that they could not assist in this necessary +labour, had no more than one ounce of wheat. It was common for the men +to fall down dead at the pumps, and all they could muster for duty, +including the officers, was from eighty to an hundred men. + +The S.W. wind blew so fresh for some days after they lost their masts, +that they could not set up jury-masts; so that they were obliged to +drive like a wreck, between the latitude of 32 deg. and 38 deg. S. till the +24th of April, when they made the coast of Brazil at Rio de Patas, +ten leagues to the southward of the island of St Catharines. They came +here to an anchor, the captain being very desirous of proceeding to St +Catharines, in order to save the hull of the ship, with her guns and +stores: But the crew instantly left off pumping, and all in one voice +cried out, _On shore! on shore!_ enraged at the hardships they had +suffered and the numbers they had lost, there being at this time +thirty dead bodies lying on the deck. Thus the captain was obliged to +run the ship directly to the land, where she parted and sunk five days +after, with all her stores and furniture; but the remainder of the +crew, whom hunger and fatigue had spared, to the number of four +hundred, got safe on shore. + +From this account of the adventures and catastrophe of the Guiapuscoa, +we may form some conjecture of the manner in which the Hermiona was +lost, and of the distresses endured by the three remaining ships of +the squadron which got into the Rio Plata. These last being in great +want of masts, yards, rigging, and all kinds of naval stores, +and having no supply at Buenos Ayres or any of the neighbouring +settlements, Pizarro dispatched an advice-boat with a letter of credit +to Rio de Janeiro, to purchase what was wanting from the Portuguese. +He sent at the same time an express across the continent to St Jago de +Chili, to be thence forwarded to the viceroy of Peru, informing him +of the disasters that had befallen his squadron, and desiring a +remittance of two hundred thousand dollars from the royal chest at +Lima, to enable him to refit and victual his remaining ships, that he +might be again in condition to attempt the passage to the South-Sea +as soon as the season of the year should be more favourable. It is +mentioned by the Spaniards, as a most extraordinary circumstance, +that, though then the depth of winter, when the Cordilleras are +esteemed impassable on account of the snow, the Indian who was charged +with this express was only thirteen days on his journey from Buenos +Ayres to St Jago in Chili, though the distance is three hundred +Spanish leagues, near forty of which are among the snows and +precipices of the Cordilleras. + +The return to this dispatch of Pizarro from the viceroy was by no +means favourable. Instead of two hundred thousand dollars, the sum +demanded, the viceroy remitted him only one hundred thousand, telling +him that it was with great difficulty he was able to procure even +that sum. But the inhabitants of Lima, who considered the presence +of Pizarro as absolutely necessary to their security, were much +discontented at this procedure, and did not scruple to assert, that +it was not the want of money, but the interested views of some of the +viceroy's confidants, that prevented Pizarro from getting the whole +sum. + +The advice-boat sent to Rio Janeiro also executed her commission but +imperfectly; for, though she brought back a considerable quantity of +pitch, tar, and cordage, she could not procure either masts or yards; +and, as an additional misfortune, Pizarro was disappointed of some +masts he expected from Paraguay, as a carpenter whom he entrusted +with a large sum of money, and sent there to cut masts, instead of +prosecuting the business he was sent upon, married in the country, +and refused to return. However, by removing the masts of the Esperanza +into the Asia, and using what spare masts and yards they had on board, +they made a shift to refit the Asia and Estevan: And, in the October +following, Pizarro was prepared to put to sea with these two ships, +in order to attempt the passage round Cape Horn a second time; but, in +coming down the Rio Plata, the Estevan ran upon a shoal and beat off +her rudder, and Pizarro proceeded to sea in the Asia without her. +Having now the antarctic summer before him, and the winds favourable, +no doubt was made of his having a fortunate and speedy passage: But, +when off Cape Horn and going right before the wind, it being moderate +weather, though in a swelling sea, the ship rolled away her masts, by +some misconduct of the officer having the watch, and was a second time +obliged to put back in great distress to the Rio Plata. + +As the Asia had suffered considerably in this second unfortunate +expedition, the Esperanza was now ordered to be refitted, the command +of her being given to Mindinuetta, who was formerly captain of the +Guipuscoa. In November 1742, he sailed from the Rio Plata for the +south, and arrived safe on the coast of Chili, where he was met by +his commodore, Pizarro, who passed over-land from Buenos Ayres. Great +animosities and contests took place between these two officers, owing +to the claim of Pizarro to command the Esperanza, which Mindinuetta +had brought round, and now refused to resign; insisting, as he had +come round the South Sea alone and under no superior, it was not now +in the power of Pizarro to resume the authority he had once parted +with. But, after a long and obstinate struggle, as the president of +Chili interposed and declared for Pizarro, Mindinuetta was obliged to +submit. + +Pizarro had not yet completed the series of his misfortunes. When +he and Mindinuetta returned over-land, in 1745, from Chili to Buenos +Ayres, they found the Asia still at Monte Video, and resolved, if +possible, to carry her to Europe. With this view they refitted her in +the best manner they could, but had great difficulty in procuring +a sufficient number of hands to navigate her, as all the remaining +sailors of the squadron, then to be met with in the neighbourhood of +Buenos Ayres, did not amount to an hundred men. They endeavoured to +supply this defect, by pressing many of the inhabitants of Buenos +Ayres, and putting on board all the English prisoners then in their +custody, together with a number of Portuguese smugglers they had taken +at different times, and some of the Indians of the country. Among +these last there was a chief and ten of his followers, who had been +surprised by a party of Spanish soldiers about three months before. +The name of this chief was Orellana, and he belonged to a very +powerful tribe, which had committed great ravages in the neighbourhood +of Buenos Ayres. With this motley crew, all of them except the +European sailors averse from the voyage, Pizarro set sail from Monte +Video about the beginning of November 1745: and the native Spaniards, +being no strangers to the dissatisfaction of their forced men, treated +them, the English prisoners and the Indians, with great insolence and +barbarity, particularly the Indians; for it was common in the meanest +officers in the ship to beat them cruelly on the slightest pretence, +and often merely to shew their superiority. + +Orellana and his followers, though in appearance sufficiently patient +and submissive, meditated a severe revenge for all these inhumanities. +As these Indians have great intercourse with Buenos Ayres in time of +peace, Orellana understood Spanish, and affected to converse with such +of the English prisoners as could speak that language, seeming very +desirous of being informed how many Englishmen there were on board, +and of having them pointed out to him. As he knew the English were as +much enemies to the Spaniards as he was, he had doubtless an intention +of disclosing his purposes to them, and making them partners in the +scheme he had projected for revenging his wrongs and recovering his +liberty; but, having sounded them at a distance, and not finding them +so precipitate and vindictive as he expected, he proceeded no farther +with them, but resolved to trust alone to the resolution of his ten +faithful followers, who readily engaged to observe his directions and +to execute his commands. Having agreed on the measures to be pursued, +they contrived to provide themselves with Dutch knives, sharp at the +point, which, being the common knives used in the ship, they procured +without difficulty. They also employed their leisure in secretly +cutting thongs from raw hides, of which there were great numbers on +board, and in fixing to each end of these thongs the double-headed +shot of the small quarter-deck guns; by which they formed most +mischievous weapons, in the use of which, by swinging round the head, +the Indians about Buenos Ayres are extremely expert, being trained to +it from their infancy. When these things were in good forwardness, +the execution of their scheme was perhaps precipitated by a particular +outrage committed upon Orellana, who was ordered aloft by one of the +officers, and being incapable of doing so, the officer, who was +a brutal fellow, beat him with such violence, under pretence of +disobedience, that he left him bleeding on the deck, and quite +stupified with wounds and bruises. This certainly increased his thirst +of revenge, so that within a day or two he and his followers began to +execute their desperate resolves in the following manner. + +About nine in the evening, when many of the principal officers were +on the quarter-deck indulging in the freshness of the night air, the +forecastle being manned with its customary watch, Orellana and his +companions, having prepared their weapons, and thrown off their +trowsers and other cumbrous parts of their dress, came all together +on the quarter-deck, and drew towards the door of the great cabin. The +boatswain reprimanded them for their presumption, and ordered them +to be gone; on which Orellana spoke to his followers in their native +language, when four of them drew off, two towards each gangway, and +the chief and six remaining Indians seemed to be slowly quitting the +quarter-deck. When the detached Indians had taken possession of the +gangways, Orellana placed his hands hollow to his mouth, and bellowed +out the war-cry of the savages, said to be the harshest and most +terrifying of sounds. This hideous yell was the signal for beginning +the massacre; upon which all the Indians drew their knives and +brandished their prepared double-headed shot. The chief, and the six +who remained with him on the quarter-deck, fell immediately on the +Spaniards with whom they were intermingled, and in a very short space +laid forty of them at their feet, above twenty of whom were killed on +the spot, and the rest disabled. + +In the beginning of the tumult, many of the officers rushed into the +great cabin, where they put out the lights and barricadoed the door; +while of the others, who had escaped the first fury of the Indians, +some endeavoured to escape along the gangways to the forecastle, where +the Indians, placed there on purpose, stabbed the greater part of them +as they attempted to pass, or forced them off the gangways into the +waste of the ship, which was filled with live cattle. Some threw +themselves voluntarily over the barricades into the waste, and thought +themselves fortunate to lie concealed among the cattle; but the +greatest part escaped up the main-shrouds, and took shelter in the +tops and rigging of the ship. Although the Indians only attacked +the quarter-deck, yet the watch in the forecastle, finding their +communication cut off, and terrified by a few of the wounded who had +been able to force their passage, and not knowing either who were +their enemies, or what were their numbers, they also gave all over for +lost, and in great confusion ran up into the rigging of the foremast +and boltsprit. + +Thus these eleven Indians, with a resolution perhaps without example, +possessed themselves almost in an instant of the quarter-deck of a +ship mounting sixty-six guns, and manned by near five hundred hands, +and even continued in peaceable possession of this part for some time. +During a considerable space, the officers in the great cabin, among +whom were Pizarro and Mindinuetta, the crew between decks, and those +who had escaped into the tops and rigging, were merely anxious for +their own safety, and were incapable of forming any project for +suppressing the insurrection and recovering the possession of the +ship. The yells of the Indians, the groans of the wounded, and the +confused clamours of the crew, all heightened by the darkness of the +night, had at first greatly magnified the danger, and filled them with +imaginary terrors. The Spaniards were sensible of the dissatisfaction +of their impressed hands, and were conscious of their barbarity to +their prisoners, wherefore they concluded that the conspiracy was +general, and considered their own destruction as infallible; insomuch, +that some are said to have designed to leap into the sea, but were +prevented by their companions. + +When the Indians had entirely cleared the quarter-deck, the tumult in +a great measure subsided; for those who had escaped were kept silent +by their fears, and the Indians were incapable of pursuing them. +Orellana, when master of the quarter-deck, broke open the arm-chest, +which had been ordered there a few days before, on a slight suspicion +of mutiny. He there expected to find cutlasses wherewith to arm +himself and his followers, who were all well skilled in the use of +that weapon, and with these it is imagined they proposed to have +forced the great cabin: But on opening the chest, there appeared +nothing but fire-arms, which to them were of no use. There were indeed +abundance of cutlasses in the chest, but they were hidden by the +fire-arms being laid uppermost. This was a sensible disappointment to +Orellana and his Indians. By this time Pizarro and his companions in +the great cabin had been able to communicate with those below in the +gun-room and between decks, by conversing aloud through the cabin +windows; by which means they learnt that the English prisoners, whom +they chiefly suspected, were all safe below, and had not participated +in the mutiny; and by other circumstances they were at last made +sensible that Orellana and his people only were concerned in it. Upon +this information, Pizarro and the officers resolved to attack them on +the quarter-deck, before any of the discontented on board had so far +recovered from their surprise as to reflect on the facility of +seizing the ship by joining with the Indians. With this view, Pizarro +collected what arms were in the cabin and distributed them to those +who were with him. There were no fire-arms except pistols, and +for these they had neither powder nor ball; but having now a +correspondence with the gun-room, they lowered a bucket from the cabin +window, into which the gunner put a quantity of pistol cartridges out +of one of the gun-room ports. Having thus procured ammunition, and +loaded their pistols, they partly opened the cabin door, and fired +several shots among the Indians on the quarter-deck, though at first +without effect. At last Mindinuetta had the good fortune to shoot +Orellana dead; on which his faithful companions, abandoning all +thoughts of farther resistance, instantly leaped into the sea, where +they all perished. Thus was this insurrection quelled, and possession +of the quarter-deck regained, after it had been fully two hours in the +power of this great and daring chief, and his small band of gallant +unhappy countrymen. + +Having thus escaped from imminent peril, Pizarro continued his +voyage for Europe, and arrived safely on the coast of Gallicia in the +beginning of the year 1746, after an absence of between four and five +years, and having, by attendance on our expedition, diminished the +royal power of Spain by above three thousand of their prime sailors, +and by four considerable ships of war and a patache. For we have seen +that the Hermione foundered at sea, the Guipuscoa was stranded and +destroyed on the coast of Brazil, the St Estevan was condemned and +broken up in the Rio Plata, and the Esperanza, being left in the South +Sea, is doubtless by this time incapable of returning to Spain: +So that the Asia alone, with less than an hundred hands, may be +considered as all that remains of the squadron with which Pizarro put +forth to sea; and whoever considers the very large proportion which +this squadron bore to the whole navy of Spain, will no doubt confess +that, even if our undertaking had been attended with no other +advantages, than that of ruining so great a part of the naval force of +so dangerous an enemy, this alone would be a sufficient equivalent +for our equipment, and an incontestable proof of the service which the +nation has thence received. Having thus given a summary of Pizarro's +adventures, I return to the narrative of our own transactions. + + + +SECTION IV. + +_Passage from Madeira to St Catharines._ + +I have already mentioned that we weighed from Madeira on the 3d +November, after orders being given to rendezvous at St Jago, one of +the Cape Verd islands, in case of a separation. But next day, when we +were got to sea, the commodore, considering that the season was far +advanced, and that touching at St Jago would create additional delay, +thought proper for this reason to alter the rendezvous, and appointed +the island of St Catharines, on the coast of Brazil, to be the first +place to which the ships of the squadron were to repair, in case of +separation. + +In our passage to the island of St Catharines, we found the direction +of the trade winds to differ considerably from what we had reason to +expect, both from the general histories given of these winds, and the +experience of former navigators. For the learned Dr Halley, in his +account of the trade-winds which prevail in the Ethiopic and Atlantic +Oceans, tells us that, from the lat. of 28 deg. N. to 10 deg. N. there is +generally a fresh gale of N.E. wind, which, towards the African +coasts, rarely comes to the eastward of E.N.E. or passes to the +northward of N.N.E. but on the American side the wind is somewhat +more easterly; though even there it is commonly a point or two to the +northward of east; that from 10 deg. N. to 4 deg. N. the calms and tornadoes +take place; and from 4 deg. N. to 30 deg. S. the winds are generally and +perpetually between the south and east. We expected to find this +account of the matter confirmed by our experience; but we found +considerable variations from it, both in regard to the steadiness of +the winds, and the quarters from whence they blew. For though we met +with a N.E. wind about lat. 28 deg. N. yet, from lat. 25 deg. N. to 18 deg. N the +wind was never once to the northward of E. but almost constantly to +the southward of it. From thence, however, to 6 deg. 20' N. we had it +usually to the northward of E. though not always, as it changed for a +short time to E.S.E. From 6 deg. 20' N. to about 4 deg. 46' N. the weather was +very unsettled, the wind being sometimes N.E. then changing to S.E. +and sometimes we had a dead calm, with small rain and lightning. After +this, to the lat. of 7 deg. 30' S. the wind continued almost invariably +between S. and E. and then again as invariably between N. and E. till +we came to 15 deg. 30' S. then E. and S.E. to 21 deg. 37' S. After this, even +to 27 deg. 44' S. the wind was never once between S. and E. though we +had it in all the other quarters of the compass; though this last +circumstance may be in some measure accounted for from our approach to +the coast of Brazil. + +I do not mention these particulars with a view of cavilling at the +received accounts of these trade-winds, which, I doubt not, are +sufficiently accurate; but I thought it worthy of public notice, that +such deviations from the established rules do sometimes take place. +This observation may not only be of service to navigators, by putting +them on their guard against these hitherto unexplained and unnoticed +irregularities, but it is also a circumstance that requires to be +attended to in the solution of the great question about the causes +of trade-winds and monsoons; a question which, in my opinion, has not +been hitherto discussed with that clearness and accuracy which +its importance demands, whether it be considered in a naval or a +philosophical point of view. + +On the 16th November, one of our victuallers made a signal to speak +with the commodore, and we shortened sail for her to come up with us. +The master came on board, and represented to Mr Anson, that, having +complied with the terms of his charter-party, he now desired to be +unloaded and discharged. On consulting the captain of the squadron, +it was found all the ships had still such quantities of provisions +between their decks, and were also so deep, that they could only take +in their proportions of brandy from the Industry pink, one of the +victuallers; and consequently the commodore had to continue the other, +the Ann pink, in the service of attending the squadron. Accordingly, a +signal was made next day for the ships to bring to, and the long-boats +were employed that and the three following days, till the 19th in the +evening, to take their proportions of the brandy in the Industry to +the several ships of the squadron. Being then unloaded, she parted +company, intending for Barbadoes; and there to take in a freight for +England. Most of the officers in the squadron took the opportunity of +this ship, to write to their friends at home; but I have been informed +she was taken by the Spaniards. + +On the 20th November, the captains of the squadron represented to the +commodore, that their ships companies were very sickly; and that, +both in their own opinions and of their surgeons, it would tend to the +health of the men to let in more air between decks; but that the +ships were so deep in the water, that the lower-deck ports could not +possibly be opened. On this representation, the commodore ordered +six air-scuttles to be cut in each ship, in such places as had least +tendency to weaken them. On this occasion, I cannot but observe how +much it is the duty of all who have any influence in the direction +of our naval affairs, to attend to the preservation of the lives and +health of our seamen. If it could be supposed that motives of humanity +were insufficient for this purpose, yet policy, a regard to the +success of our arms, and the honour and interest of each individual +commander, all should lead to a careful and impartial examination of +every probable method proposed for preserving the health and vigour of +seamen. But hath this been always done? Have the late invented, +plain, and obvious methods for keeping our ships sweet and clean, by +a constant supply of fresh air, been considered with that candour +and temper which the great benefits they promise to produce ought +naturally to have inspired? On the contrary, have not these salutary +schemes been often treated with neglect and contempt? And have not +some, who have been entrusted with experimenting their effects, been +guilty of the most indefensible partiality in the accounts they have +given of these trials? It must, however, be confessed, that many +distinguished persons, both in the direction and command of our +fleets, have exerted themselves on these occasions with a judicious +and dispassionate examination, becoming the interesting nature of the +enquiry: But the wonder is, that any one should have been found so +irrational as to act a contrary part, in despite of the strongest +dictates of prudence and humanity. I cannot, however, believe +this conduct to have arisen from such savage motives as the first +reflection seems naturally to suggest; but am apt rather to impute +it to an obstinate, and, as it were, superstitious attachment to +long-established practices, and to a settled contempt and hatred to +all innovations, especially such as are projected by landsmen, or +persons residing on shore. + +We crossed the equinoctial, with a fine fresh gale at N.E. on Friday, +the 28th November, at four in the morning, being thus, by estimation, +in long. 27 deg. 59' W. from London. In the morning of the 2d December, we +saw a sail in the N.W. and made the Gloucester's and Tryal's signals +to chase; and half an hour after, let out our reefs, and chased with +the rest of the squadron. About noon a signal was made for the Wager +to take our remaining victualler, the Ann pink, in tow; but, at seven +in the evening, finding we did not near the chase, and that the Wager +was very far astern, we shortened sail, and recalled the chasing +ships. Next day but one we again discovered a sail, which, on a nearer +approach, we judged to be the same vessel. We chased her the whole +day, and though we rather gained upon her, night came on before +we could overtake her, which obliged us to give over the chase, to +collect the scattered squadron. We were much chagrined at the escape +of this vessel, supposing her to have been an advice-boat from Old +Spain to Buenos Ayres, sent to give notice of our expedition: But we +have since learnt that it was our East-India Company's packet, bound +to St Helena. + +On the 10th December, being by our reckoning in lat. 20 deg. S. and long. +36 deg. 30' W. from London, the Tryal fired a gun to denote soundings. We +immediately tried, and found sixty fathoms, the bottom coarse ground +with broken shells. The Tryal, which was a-head of us, had at one +time thirty-seven fathoms, which afterwards increased to ninety, +after which she had no bottom; which happened to us also at our second +trial, though we sounded with a line of 150 fathoms. This is the shoal +laid down in most charts by the name of the _Abrollos_,[1] and +it appeared we were upon its verge; perhaps farther in it may be +extremely dangerous. We were then, by our different accounts, from +sixty to ninety leagues east of the coast of Brazil. Next day but one +we spoke a Portuguese brigantine from Rio Janeiro bound to _Bahia de +todos los Santos_, by which we learnt that we were thirty-four leagues +from Cape St Thomas, and forty from Cape Frio; which latter bore from +us W.S.W. By our own accounts we were nearly eight leagues from Cape +Frio; and though, on the information of this brig, we altered our +course, standing more southerly, yet, by our coming in with the land +afterwards, we were fully convinced that our own reckoning was more +correct than that of the Portuguese. After passing lat. 16 deg. S. we +found a considerable current setting to the southward. The same took +place all along the coast of Brazil, and even to the southward of the +Rio Plata, amounting sometimes to thirty miles in twenty-four hours, +and once to above forty miles. If, as is most probable, this current +be occasioned by the running off of the water which is accumulated on +the coast of Brazil by the constant sweeping of the eastern trade-wind +over the Ethiopic Ocean, it were then most natural to suppose that +its general course must be determined by the bearings of the adjacent +shores. Perhaps in every instance of currents the same may hold true, +as I believe there are no examples of any considerable currents at any +great distance from land. If this could be ascertained as a general +principle, it might be easy by their assistance and the observed +latitude, to correct the reckoning. But it were much to be wished, for +the general interests of navigation, that the actual settings of the +different currents in various parts of the world were examined +more frequently and more accurately than appears to have been done +hitherto. + +[Footnote 1: In the map of the world by Arrowsmith, the Abrolhos are +made a cluster of islands off the coast of Brazil, in lat. 18 deg. 10' S. +long. 39 deg. W. from Greenwich.--E.] + +We began now to grow impatient for a sight of land, both for the +recovery of our sick, and for the refreshment and security of those +who still continued in health. When we left. St Helens, we were in +so good a condition that we only lost two men in the Centurion in our +long run to Madeira. But in this run, from Madeira to St Catharines, +we were remarkably sickly, so that many died, and great numbers were +confined to their hammocks, both in our ship and the others, and +several of these past all hopes of recovery. The disorders they in +general laboured under were those common to hot climates, and which +most ships bound to the south experience in a greater or less degree. +These were the fevers usually called _calentures_, a disease not only +terrible in its first instance, but of which the remains often proved +fatal to those who considered themselves as recovered; for it always +left them in a very weak and helpless condition, and usually +afflicted with fluxes or tenesmus. By our continuance at sea all these +complaints were every day increasing; so that it was with great joy we +discovered the coast of Brazil on the 18th December, at seven in the +morning. + +The coast of Brazil appeared high and mountainous, extending from W. +to W.S.W. and when we first saw it, the distance was about seventeen +leagues. At noon we could perceive a low double land, bearing W.S.W. +about ten leagues distant, which we took to be the island of St +Catharines. That afternoon and the next morning, the wind being N.N.W. +we gained very little to windward, and were apprehensive of being +driven to leeward of the island: But next day, a little before noon, +the wind came about to the southward, and enabled us to steer in +between the N. point of St Catharines and the neighbouring island +of Alvoredo. As we stood in for the land we had regular soundings, +gradually decreasing from thirty-six to twelve fathoms, all muddy +ground. In this last depth of water we let go our anchor at five in +the evening of the 18th,[2] the N.W. part of St Catharines bearing +S.S.W. three miles off; and the island of Alvoredo N.N.E. distant two +leagues. Here we found the tide to set S.S.E. and N.N.W. at the rate +of two knots, the tide of flood coming from the southward. + +[Footnote 2: There is an error in date here, as it has been already +said they first got sight of the coast of Brazil on the 18th, +obviously two days before. Hence, if the former date be right, this +ought to be the 20th.--E.] + +We could perceive from our ships two fortifications at a considerable +distance from us, which seemed intended to prevent the passage of an +enemy between the island of St Catharines and the main. We could also +soon see that our squadron had alarmed the coast, as the two forts +hoisted their colours and fired several guns, signals, as we supposed, +for assembling the inhabitants. To prevent any confusion, the +commodore immediately sent an officer to compliment the governor, and +to request a pilot to conduct our ships into the road. The governor +returned a very civil answer, and ordered us a pilot. On the morning +of the 20th we weighed and stood in, and the pilot came aboard of us +about noon, and the same afternoon brought us to anchor in five and +a half fathoms, in a commodious bay on the continent, called by the +French Bon-port. From our last anchorage to this, we found every where +an oozy bottom, the water first regularly decreasing to five fathoms, +and then increasing to seven, after which we had five and six fathoms +alternately. The squadron weighed again next morning, in order to run +above the two fortifications formerly mentioned, which are called the +castles of Santa Cruiz and St Joam. Our soundings between the island +and the main were four, five, and six fathoms, with muddy ground. We +saluted the castle of Santa Cruiz in passing with eleven guns, and +were answered with an equal number. At one in the afternoon of the +21st December, the squadron came to anchor in five fathoms and a half, +Governor's Isle bearing N.N.W. St Joam's castle N.E. 1/2 E. and the +island of St Antonio S. At this time the squadron was sickly, and in +great want of refreshments, both of which we hoped to have speedily +remedied at this settlement, celebrated by former navigators for +its healthiness and abundance of provisions, and for the freedom, +indulgence, and friendly assistance given here to all the ships of +nations in amity with the crown of Portugal. + + + +SECTION V. + +_Proceedings at St Catharines, and a Description of that Place, with a +short Account of Brazil._ + +Our first care after mooring the ships was to get our sick men on +shore; preparatory for which each ship was ordered by the commodore to +erect two tents, one for the reception of the sick, and the other for +the surgeon and his assistants. We sent eighty sick on shore from the +Centurion, and I believe the other ships sent as many in proportion +to the number of their hands. As soon as this necessary duty was +performed, we scraped our decks, and gave our ship a thorough +cleansing, then smoaked it between decks, and lastly washed every part +with vinegar. These operations were extremely necessary for correcting +the noisome stench on board, and destroying the vermin; for, from the +number of our men and the heat of the climate, both these nuisances +had increased upon us to a very loathsome degree, and, besides being +most intolerably offensive, were doubtless in some sort productive of +the sickness we had laboured under for a considerable time before our +arrival at this island.[3] + +[Footnote 3: This matter is now infinitely better regulated in +the British navy, and with most admirable and infinitely important +advantages. By the most minute, sedulous, and perpetual attention to +cleanliness, all noisome stench and all vermin are prevented, by which +doubtless diseases are in a great measure lessened.--E.] + +Our next employment was wooding and watering the squadron, caulking +the sides and decks of the ships, overhawling the rigging, and +securing our masts against the tempestuous weather we were, in all +probability, to meet with in going round Cape Horn at so advanced +and inconvenient a season. Before proceeding in the narrative of our +voyage, it may be proper to give some account of the present state of +the island of St Catharines and the neighbouring country; both because +the circumstances of the place have materially changed from what they +were in the time of former writers, and as these changes laid us under +many more difficulties and perplexities than we had reason to expect, +or than other British ships, bound hereafter to the South Sea, may +perhaps think it prudent to struggle with. + +This island is nine leagues from N. to S. and two from E. to W. It +extends from lat. 27 deg. 35' to 28 deg. both S. and is in long. 49 deg. 45' +W. from London.[4] Although of considerable height, it is scarcely +discernible at the distance of ten leagues, being obscured under the +continent of Brazil, the mountains of which are exceedingly high; but +on a nearer approach is easily distinguished, and may be readily known +by having a number of small islands at each end.[5] Frezier has given +a draught of the island of St Catharines and the neighbouring coast, +with the smaller adjacent isles; but has, by mistake, called the +island of Alvoredo St Gal; whereas the true island of St Gal is seven +or eight miles northward of Alvoredo, and much smaller. He has also +called an island to the southward of St Catharines Alvoredo, and +has omitted the island of Masaquara. In other respects his plan is +sufficiently exact. The best entrance to the harbour is between the +N.E. point of the island of St Catharines and the island of Alvoredo, +where ships may pass under the guidance of the lead, without the least +apprehensions of danger. The north entrance is about five miles broad, +the distance from thence to the island of St Antonio is eight miles, +and the coarse to that island is S.S.W. 1/2 W. About the middle of the +island the harbour is contracted to a narrow channel by two points of +land, not more than a quarter of a mile separate, and at this time a +battery was erecting on the point on the island side to defend this +passage. This seemed, however, a very useless work, as this channel +had only two fathoms water, and is consequently only navigable for +barks and boats, wherefore an enemy could have no inducement to +attempt this passage, more especially as the northern one is so broad +and safe that no squadron can be prevented from coming in by any +fortifications whatever, when the sea-breeze makes. The brigadier Don +Jose Sylva de Paz, who is governor of this settlement, has a different +opinion; for, besides the above-mentioned battery, there were three +other forts carrying on for the defence of the harbour, none of which +were completed when we were there. The first of these, called St Joam, +was building on a point of the island of St Catharines, near Parrot +Island. The second, in form of a half-moon, was on the island of +St Antonio; and the third, which seemed the chief, and had some +appearance of a regular fortification, is on an island near the +continent, where the governor resides. Don Jose Sylva de Paz was +esteemed an expert engineer; and he doubtless understood one branch of +his business very well, which is the advantages which new works bring +to those who have charge of their erection. + +[Footnote 4: This account of the matter is very erroneous. The +latitudes are between 28 deg. 5' and 28 deg. 30' both S. and the longitude is +49 deg. 10' W. from Greenwich.--E.] + +[Footnote 5: The more elaborate nautical description of this island +is necessarily omitted, as referring to two extensive views, without +which the description would be unintelligible.--E.] + +The soil of this island is truly luxuriant, producing many kinds of +fruits spontaneously, and is covered over with one continued forest of +trees, in perpetual verdure, and which, from the exuberant fertility +of the soil, are so entangled with thorns, briars, and underwood, +as to form an absolutely impenetrable thicket, except by some narrow +paths which the inhabitants have opened for their own convenience; and +these, with a few spots cleared for plantations, along that side of +the island which faces the continent, are the only uncovered parts of +the island. The woods are extremely fragrant, from the many aromatic +trees and shrubs with which they abound, and here the fruits and +vegetables of all climates thrive, almost without culture, and are +to be had in great plenty, so that there is no want of pine-apples, +peaches, grapes, oranges, lemons, citrons, melons, apricots, and +plantains; there is also abundance of onions and potatoes, two +productions of no small consideration for sea-stores. The flesh +provisions are, however, much inferior to the vegetables. There are, +indeed, small wild cattle to be purchased, something like buffaloes, +but these are very indifferent food, their flesh being of a loose +texture, and generally of a disagreeable flavour, probably owing to +their feeding on wild calabash. There are also abundance of pheasants, +but they are not to be compared in taste to those we have in England. +The other provisions of the place are monkeys, parrots, and, above +all, fish of various sorts: These abound in the harbour, and are both +exceedingly good and easily caught, as there are numerous sandy bays, +very convenient for haling the seyne. + +The water, both on the island and the opposite continent, is +excellent, and preserves at sea as well as that of the Thames. After +it has been a day or two in the cask, it begins to purge itself, +stinks most abominably, and is soon covered over with a green +scum, which subsides in a few days to the bottom, leaving the water +perfectly sweet, and as clear as crystal. The French first brought +this place into repute during their South-Sea trade in the reign +of Queen Anne, and usually wooded and watered in Bon-port, on the +continental side of the harbour, where they anchored in great safety +in six fathoms, and this is doubtless the most commodious station +for ships that are meant only for a short stay. We watered on the +St Catharine's side, at a plantation opposite to the island of St +Antonio. + +Such are the advantages of this island; but it has its inconveniences +also, partly proceeding from its climate, but more particularly +from its new regulations and the form of its government, as lately +established. In regard to the climate, it must be remembered that the +woods and hills which surround the harbour prevent a free circulation +of air, and the continual vigorous vegetation furnishes such a +prodigious quantity of vapour, that a thick fog covers the whole +country all night, and a great part of the morning, continuing till +either the sun gathers strength to dissipate it, or it is dispersed +by a brisk sea-breeze. This renders the place close and humid, and +probably occasioned the many fevers and fluxes we were there afflicted +with. I must not omit to add, that we were pestered all day by vast +numbers of mosquetoes, which are not much unlike the gnats in England, +but much more venomous in their stings. At sunset, when the musquetoes +retired, they were succeeded by an infinity of sand-flies, which +made a mighty buzzing, though scarcely discernable by the naked eye; +wherever these bite, they raise a small lump attended by painful +itching, like that arising from the bite of an English harvest bug. +The only light in which this place deserves our consideration is its +favourable situation for supplying and refreshing our cruizers bound +for the South Sea, and in this view its greatest inconveniences remain +to be related, to do which more distinctly, it may not be amiss +to consider the changes which it has lately undergone, both in its +inhabitants, its police, and its governor. + +In the time of Frazier and Shelvocke, this place served only as a +retreat to vagabonds and outlaws, who fled hither from all parts of +Brazil. It is true, that they acknowledged their subjection to the +crown of Portugal, and had a person among them whom they called their +captain, and who was considered as a kind of governor; but both their +allegiance to their king, and their obedience to the captain, were +merely verbal; for, as they had plenty of provisions and no money, +they were in a condition to support themselves without aid from any +neighbouring settlements, and had nothing among them to tempt any +neighbouring governor to interpose his authority among them. In this +situation they were extremely hospitable and friendly to such foreign +ships as came among them; for, as these ships wanted only provisions, +of which the natives had great store, while the natives wanted +clothes, for they often despised money, and refused to take it, the +ships furnished them with apparel in exchange for their provisions, +both sides finding their account in this traffic, and their captain +had neither interest nor power to tax or restrain it. + +Of late, for reasons which will afterwards appear, these honest +vagabonds have been obliged to receive a new colony among them, and +to submit to new laws and a new form of government. Instead of their +former ragged and bare-legged captain, whom they took care, however, +to keep innocent, they have now the honour of being governed by Don +Jose Sylva de Paz, a brigadier of the armies of Portugal, who is +accompanied by a garrison of soldiers, and has consequently a more +extensive and better supported power than any of his predecessors: +And as he wears better cloaths, lives more splendidly, and has a much +better knowledge of the importance of money than any of them could +ever pretend to, so he puts in practice certain methods for procuring +it with which they were utterly unacquainted; yet it may be much +doubted if the inhabitants consider these methods as tending to +promote either their interests, or that of their sovereign, the king +of Portugal. This much is certain, that his behaviour cannot but be +extremely embarrassing to such British ships as touch here in their +way to the South Seas. + +One of his practices was, that he placed centinels at all the avenues, +to prevent the people from selling us any refreshments, except at such +exorbitant rates as we could not afford to give. His pretence for this +extraordinary stretch of power was, that he was obliged to preserve +their provisions for upwards of an hundred families, which were daily +expected as a reinforcement to the colony. Thus he seems no novice in +his profession, by his readiness at inventing a plausible pretence +for his interested management. This circumstance, however, though +sufficiently provoking, was far from being the most exceptionable +part of his conduct; for, as by the neighbourhood of the Rio Plata, a +considerable smuggling trade is carried on between the Portuguese and +Spaniards, especially in exchanging gold for silver, by which both +princes are defrauded of their fifths; and as Don Jose was deeply +engaged in this prohibited commerce, in order to ingratiate himself +with his Spanish correspondents, he treacherously dispatched an +express to Buenos Ayres, where Pizarro then lay, with an account of +our arrival, our strength, the number, of our ships, guns, men, +and every circumstance he could suppose our enemy desirous of being +acquainted with. + +This much, and what we shall have to relate in the course of our own +proceedings, may suffice as to the present state of St Catharines and +the character of its governor. But as the reader may wish to know +the reasons for the late new modelling of this settlement, it will +require, to explain this circumstance, to give a short account of the +adjacent continent of Brazil, and of the wonderful discoveries which +have been made within the last forty years, which, from a country of +but mean estimation, has rendered it now perhaps the most considerable +colony on the face of the earth. + +This country was first discovered by Americus Vesputio, a Florentine, +who had the good fortune to be honoured by giving his name to the +immense continent found out some time before by Columbus. As Vesputio +was in the service of Portugal, this discovery was settled and planned +by that nation, and afterwards devolved to the crown of Spain along +with the rest of the Portuguese dominions. During the long war between +Spain and the states of Holland, the Dutch possessed themselves of the +northermost parts of Brazil, and kept it for some years; but, when +the Portuguese revolted from the Spanish government, this country +took part in the revolt, and the Dutch were soon driven out of their +acquisitions; since which time it has continued without interruption +under the crown of Portugal. Till the beginning of the present +century, it was only productive of sugar and tobacco, and a few other +commodities of very little importance; but has been lately discovered +to abound in the two mineral productions, gold and diamonds, which +mankind hold in the highest estimation, and which they exercise their +utmost art and industry in acquiring. + +Gold was first found in the mountains adjacent to the city of Rio +Janeiro. The occasion of its discovery is variously related, but the +most common account is, that the Indians dwelling on the back of the +Portuguese settlements were observed, by the soldiers employed in an +expedition against them, to use this metal for fish-hooks; and, +on enquiry into their manner of procuring this precious metal, it +appeared that great quantities of it were annually washed from the +hills, and left among the sand and gravel which remained in the +vallies after the running off or evaporation of the water. It is now +[in 1740] little more than forty years since any quantities of gold, +worth notice, have been imported from Brazil to Europe; but, since +that time, the annual imports have been continually augmented by the +discovery of places in other provinces, where it is to be met with +as plentifully as at first about Rio Janeiro. It is alleged that a +_slender vein_[3] of gold spread through all the country, at about +twenty-four feet below the surface, but that this vein is too thin and +poor to answer the expence of digging.[4] However, where the rivers +or rains have had any course for a considerable time, there gold is +always to be collected, the water having separated the metal from the +earth, and deposited it in the sands, thereby saving the expence of +digging; hence it is esteemed an infallible gain to be able to divert +a stream from its channel, and ransack its bed. From this account of +the manner of gathering gold, it should follow that there are no mines +of this metal in Brazil, and this the governor of Rio Grande, who +happened to be at St Catharines, and frequently visited Mr Anson, did +most confidently affirm, assuring us that all the gold was collected +from rivers, or from the beds of torrents after floods. It is indeed +asserted that large rocks are found in the mountains abounding in +gold, and I have seen a fragment of one of these rocks having a +considerable lump of gold entangled in it; but, even in this case, the +workmen only break off the rocks, and do not properly mine into them; +and the great expence of subsisting among these mountains, and in +afterwards separating the metal from the stone, occasions this method +of procuring gold to be but rarely put in practice. + +[Footnote 3: The author ought here to have said, _a thin layer_, or +_stratum_, to express the obvious meaning intended in the text.--E.] + +[Footnote 4: The editor was informed, many years ago, by an +intelligent native of Rio Janeiro, that the search for gold is +confined by law to certain districts, on purpose to secure the royal +fifth; and that all over the country round Rio Janeiro, where the +search is prohibited, gold, emeralds, and aqua-marines are found in +small quantities, on every occasion of digging to any depth into the +earth, as for the purpose of a pit-well.--E.] + +The examining the bottom of rivers and beds of torrents, and the +washing the gold there found, from the sand and dirt with which it is +always mixed, are performed by slaves, who are principally negroes, +kept in great numbers by the Portuguese for this purpose. The +regulation of the duty of these slaves is singular, as they are each +of them obliged to furnish their master with the eighth part of an +ounce of gold daily.[5] If they are either so fortunate or industrious +as to collect a greater quantity, the surplus becomes their own +property, and they may dispose of it as they think fit; so that some +negroes, who have accidentally fallen upon rich washing-places, are +said to have themselves purchased slaves, and to have lived afterwards +in great splendour, their original master having no other demand upon +them than the daily supply of the before-mentioned eighths; which, +as the Portuguese ounce is somewhat lighter than our troy ounce, may +amount to about nine shillings sterling. + +[Footnote 5: On the data of the text, and allowing sixty-five days +in the year for Sundays and high festivals, the yearly profit of one +slave to his master would be L. 135 sterling.--E.] + +The quantity of gold thus collected in the Brazils and returned +annually to Lisbon, may be estimated, in some degree, from the amount +of the royal fifth. This has been of late computed, one year with +another, at one hundred and fifty _aroues_, of thirty-two Portuguese +pounds each, which, valued at L. 4 sterling the troy ounce, make very +nearly three hundred thousand pounds sterling; and consequently the +capital, of which this is the fifth, is about a million and a half +sterling. It is obvious that the annual return of gold to Lisbon +cannot be less than this, though it may be difficult to guess how much +more it may be. Perhaps we may not be much mistaken in conjecturing +that the gold exchanged with the Spaniards at Buenos Ayres for silver, +and what is privately brought to Europe without paying the duty, may +amount to near half a million more, which will make the entire yearly +produce of Brazilian gold nearly two millions sterling; a prodigious +sum to be found in a country which only a few years since was not +known to furnish a single grain. + +Besides gold, this country also affords diamonds, as already +mentioned. The discovery of these valuable stones is much more recent +even than that of gold, as it is scarcely twenty years since the first +were brought to Europe.[6] They are found in the same manner as gold, +in the gullies of torrents and beds of rivers, but only in particular +places, and by no means so universally spread throughout the country. +They were often found while washing for gold, before they were known +to be diamonds, and were consequently thrown away along with the +sand and gravel; and it is well remembered that numbers of very large +stones, which would have made the fortunes of the possessors, have +passed unregarded through the hands of those who now impatiently +support the mortifying reflection. However, about twenty years since, +[that is, in 1720,] a person acquainted with the appearance of rough +diamonds, conceived that these pebbles, as they were then called, were +of the same kind; yet it is said there was a considerable interval +between the first stating of this opinion and its confirmation, by +proper examination, as it was difficult to persuade the inhabitants +that what they had been long accustomed to despise, could be of such +amazing importance; and in this interval, as I was told, a governor of +one of these places procured a good number of these stones, which +he pretended to make use of as markers at cards. The truth of the +discovery was at last confirmed by skilful jewellers in Europe, who +were consulted on the occasion, and who declared that these Brazilian +pebbles were true diamonds, many of which were not inferior in lustre, +or other qualities, to those of the East Indies. On this being made +known, the Portuguese in the neighbourhood of the places where these +had been first discovered, set themselves to search for diamonds with +great assiduity, and were hopeful of discovering them in considerable +quantities, as they found large rocks of crystal in many of the +mountains whence the streams proceeded that washed down the diamonds. + +[Footnote 6: The author writes as of the year 1740.--E.] + +Soon after this discovery, it was represented to the king of Portugal, +that if diamonds should be met with in such abundance as their +sanguine expectations seemed to indicate, their value and estimation +would be so debased as to ruin all the Europeans who had any quantity +of East India diamonds in their possession, and would even render +the discovery itself of no importance, and prevent his majesty from +deriving any advantages from it. On these considerations, his majesty +thought proper to restrain the general search for diamonds, and +erected a diamond company, with an exclusive charter for this purpose; +in which company, in consideration of a sum of money paid to the king, +the property of all diamonds found in Brazil is vested: But, to hinder +them from collecting too large quantities, and thereby reducing their +value in the market, they are prohibited from employing above eight +hundred slaves in this search. To prevent any of his other subjects +from continuing the search, and to secure the company against +interlopers, a large town, and considerable surrounding district, has +been depopulated; and all the inhabitants, said to have amounted +to six thousand, have been obliged to remove to another part of the +country: For as this town and district were in the neighbourhood of +the diamonds, it was thought impossible to prevent such a number of +people from frequently smuggling, if allowed to reside on the spot. + +In consequence of these important discoveries in Brazil, new laws, new +governments, and new regulations, have been established in many parts +of the country. Not long ago there was a considerable track of country +possessed by a set of inhabitants called Paulists, from the name of +their principal settlement, who were almost independent of the +crown of Portugal, to which it scarcely ever acknowledged a nominal +allegiance. These Paulists are said to be descendants from the +Portuguese who retired from the northern part of Brazil when it was +invaded and possessed by the Dutch. Being long neglected by their +superiors, owing to the confusions of the times, and obliged to +provide for their own security and defence, the necessity of their +affairs produced a kind of government among themselves, which sufficed +for their mode of life. Thus habituated to their own regulations, they +became fond of independence, so that, rejecting the mandates of the +court of Lisbon, they were often engaged in a state of downright +rebellion; and, owing to the mountains surrounding their country, and +the difficulty of clearing the few passes leading towards it, they +were generally able to make their own terms before they submitted. But +as gold was found in this country of the Paulists, the present king of +Portugal, in whose reign almost all these great discoveries have been +made, thought it necessary to reduce this province, now become of +great importance, under the same dependence and obedience with the +rest of the country, which was at length effected, though, as I was +informed, with great difficulty. + +The same motives which induced his majesty to reduce the Paulists, +have also occasioned the changes which I have mentioned as having +taken place at the island of St Catharines: For, as we were assured +by the governor of Rio Grande, there are considerable rivers in this +neighbourhood that are found to be extremely rich in gold, for which +reason a military governor with a garrison have been placed here, +along with a new colony; and, as the harbour at this island is by much +the largest and most secure of any on the coast, it is not improbable, +if the riches of the neighbourhood answer their present expectation, +that it may become in time the principal settlement in Brazil, and the +most considerable port in all South America. + +This much I thought necessary to insert, in relation to the present +state of Brazil and of the island of St Catharines; for, as this last +place has been generally recommended as the most eligible place for +our cruizers to refresh at when bound to the South Sea, I believed it +to be my duty to instruct my countrymen in the hitherto unsuspected +inconveniences which attend that place. And, as the Brazilian gold and +diamonds are subjects of novelty, of which very few particulars have +hitherto been published, I considered that the account I have been +able to collect respecting them might not be regarded either a +trifling or useless digression. + +When we first arrived at St Catharines, we were employed in refreshing +our sick on shore, in wooding and watering the squadron, in cleaning +our ships, and in examining and securing our masts and rigging, as +formerly mentioned. At the same time Mr Anson gave orders that the +ships companies should be supplied with fresh meat, and have a full +allowance of all kinds of provisions. In consequence of these orders +we had fresh meat sent on board continually for our daily expenditure; +and every thing else that was wanting to make up our allowances, was +received from the Anna Pink, our victualler, in order to preserve the +provisions on board the ships of the squadron as entire as possible +for future service. As the season of the year grew every day less +favourable for our passage round Cape Horn, Mr Anson was very anxious +to leave St Catharines as soon as possible, and we were at first in +hopes that all our business would be concluded, and we should be in +readiness to sail, in about a fortnight from our arrival; but, on +examining the masts of the Tryal, we found, to our no small vexation, +inevitable employment for twice that time; for, on a survey, her +main-mast was sprung at the upper woulding, though that was thought +capable of being secured by means of two fishes; but the fore-mast was +reported entirely unfit for service, on which the carpenters were sent +into the woods in search of a stick proper for a new foremast. After +a search of four days, nothing could be found fit for the purpose; +wherefore, on a new consultation, it was agreed to endeavour to secure +the mast by three fishes, in which work the carpenters were employed +till within a day or two of our departure. In the meantime, thinking +it necessary to have a clean vessel, on our arrival in the South Sea, +the commodore ordered the Tryal to be hove down, which occasioned +no loss of time, as it might be completed while the carpenters were +refitting her masts on shore. + +A sail being discovered in the offing on the 27th December, and not +knowing but she might be Spanish, the eighteen-oared boat was manned +and armed, and sent under the command of our second lieutenant, to +examine her before she got within the protection of the forts. She +proved to be a Portuguese brigantine from Rio Grande; and, though +our officer behaved with the utmost civility to the master, and even +refused to accept a calf which the master pressed him to accept, the +governor took great offence at the sending our boat, talking of it +in a high strain, as a violation of the peace subsisting between +the crowns of Great Britain and Portugal. We thus attributed this +blustering to no deeper cause than the natural insolence of Don Jose; +but when he charged our officer with behaving rudely, and attempting +to take by violence the calf which he had refused as a present, we had +reason to suspect that he purposely sought this quarrel, and had more +important objects in view than the mere captiousness of his temper. +What these motives might be we had then no means of determining, or +even guessing at; but we afterwards found, by letters which fell into +our hands when in the South-Seas, that he had dispatched an express to +Pizarro, who then lay in the Rio Plata, with an account of our arrival +at St Catharines, together with a most ample and circumstantial +account of our force and condition. We then conceived, that Don Jose +had raised this groundless clamour on purpose to prevent us from +visiting the brigantine when she should go away again, lest we might +have found proofs of his perfidy, and perhaps have discovered +the secret of his smuggling correspondence with his neighbouring +governors, and with the Spaniards at Buenos Ayres. + +It was near a month before the Tryal was refitted; for not only were +her lower-masts defective, but her main-topmast and fore-yard were +likewise found rotten. While this work was going on, the other +ships of the squadron set up new standing-rigging, together with a +sufficient number of preventer shrowds to each mast, to secure them in +the most effectual manner. Also, in order to render the ships stiffer, +to enable them to carry more sail abroad, and to prevent them from +straining their upper works in hard gales of wind, the several +captains were ordered to put some of their great guns into their +holds. These precautions being complied with, and all the ships having +taken in as much wood and water as there was room for, the Tryal was +at last completed, and the whole squadron was ready for sea: On which +the tents on shore were struck, and all the sick removed on board. We +had here a melancholy proof how much the healthiness of this place +was over-rated by former writers; for, though the Centurion had alone +buried no less than twenty-eight of her men since our arrival, yet, in +the same interval, the number of her sick had increased from eighty to +ninety-six. + +All being embarked, and every thing prepared for our departure, the +commodore made the signal for all captains, and delivered them their +orders, containing the successive places of rendezvous from hence to +the coast of Chili. Next day, being the 18th of January, 1741, the +signal was made for weighing, and the squadron put to sea; leaving +this island of St Catharines without regret, as we had been extremely +disappointed in our accommodations and expectatations of refreshment, +and in the humane and friendly offices we had been taught to look +for, in a place so much celebrated for its hospitality, freedom, and +convenience. + + + +SECTION VI. + +_The Run from St Catharines to Port St Julian; with some Account of +that Port, and of the Country to the South of the Rio Plata._ + +In quitting St Catharines, we left the last amicable port we proposed +to touch at, and were now proceeding to a hostile, or at best a desert +and inhospitable coast. As we were to expect a more boisterous climate +to the southward than any we had yet experienced, not only our +danger of separation would by this means be much augmented, but other +accidents of a more mischievous nature were also to be apprehended, +and as much as possible provided against. Mr Anson, therefore, in +appointing the various stations at which the ships of the squadron +were to rendezvous, had considered that his own ship might be disabled +from getting round Cape Horn, or might be lost, and gave therefore +proper directions, that, even in that case, the expedition might not +be abandoned. The orders delivered to the captains, the day before +sailing from St Catharines, were, in case of separation, which they +were to endeavour to avoid with the utmost care, that the first place +of rendezvous was to be Port St Julian, describing the place from Sir +John Narborough's account of it. They were there to provide as much +salt as they could take on board, both for their own use and that of +the other ships of the squadron; and, if not joined by the commodore +after a stay of ten days, they were then to pass through the straits +of Le Maire and round Cape Horn into the South-Seas, where the next +place of rendezvous was to be the island of Nostra Senora del Socoro, +in lat. 45 deg. S. long. 71 deg. 12' W. from the Lizard.[1] They were to bring +this island to bear E.N.E. and to cruize from five to twelve leagues +distance from it, as long as their store of wood and water would +permit, both of which they were directed to expend with the utmost +frugality. When under the necessity of procuring a fresh supply, they +were to stand in, and endeavour to find an anchorage; and in case they +could not, and the weather made it dangerous to supply the ships by +standing off and on, they were then to make the best of their way to +the island of Juan Fernandez in lat. 33 deg. 37' S. at which island, after +recruiting their wood and water, they were to cruize off the anchorage +for fifty-six days; and, if not joined by the commodore in that time, +they were to conclude that some accident had befallen him, and were +forthwith to put themselves under the command of the senior officer, +who was to use his utmost endeavour to annoy the enemy both by sea and +land. In this view, the new commander was urged to continue in these +seas as long as provisions lasted, or as they could be supplied by +what could be taken from the enemy, reserving only a sufficiency to +carry the ships to Macao, at the entrance of the river of Canton +on the coast of China; whence, being supplied with a new stock of +provisions, they were to make the best of their way to England. As it +was found still impossible to unload the Anna Pink, our victualler, +the commodore gave her master instructions for the same rendezvouses, +and similar orders to put himself under the command of the remaining +senior officer. + +[Footnote 1: The centre of the island of Socoro, or Guayteca, on the +western coast of Patagonia, is in lat. 43 deg. 10' S. and long. 73 deg. 40' W. +from Greenwich.--E.] + +Under these orders, the squadron sailed from St Catharines on Sunday +the 18th of January, 1741. Next day we had very squally weather, +attended with rain, lightning, and thunder; but it soon cleared up +again, with light breezes, and continued so to the evening of the +21st, when it again blew fresh, and, increasing all night, it became a +most violent storm by next morning, accompanied by so thick a fog that +it was impossible for us to see to the distance of two ships lengths, +and we consequently lost sight of all the squadron. On this a signal +was made, by firing guns, to bring to with the larboard tacks, the +wind being due east. We in the Centurion handed the top-sails, bunted +the main-sail, and lay to under a reefed-mizen till noon, when the +fog dispersed, and we soon discovered all the ships of the squadron, +except the Pearl, which did not join till near a month afterwards. +The Tryal was a great way to leeward, having lost her main-mast in +the squall, and having been obliged to cut away the wreck, for fear of +bilging. We therefore bore down with the squadron to her relief, and +the Gloucester was ordered to take her in tow, as the weather did not +entirely abate till next day, and even then a great swell continued +from the eastward, in consequence of the preceding storm. After this +accident we continued to the southward with little interruption, +finding the same setting of the current we had observed before our +arrival at St Catharines; that is, we generally found ourselves about +twenty miles to the southward of our reckoning by the log every day. +This, with some inequality, lasted till we had passed the latitude of +the Rio Plata, and even then the same current, however difficult to +be accounted for, undoubtedly continued; for we were not satisfied in +attributing this appearance to any error in our reckoning, but tried +it more than once, when a calm rendered it practicable. + +Immediately on getting to the south of the latitude of the Rio Plata +we had soundings, which continued all along the coast of Patagonia. +These soundings, when well ascertained, being of great use in +determining the position of a ship on this coast, and as we tried them +more frequently, in greater depths, and with more attention, than I +believe had ever been done before, I shall recite our observations +on this subject as succinctly as I can. In lat. 36 deg. 52' S. we had 60 +fathoms on a bottom of fine black and grey sand: From thence to 39 deg. +55' S. we varied our depths from 50 to 80 fathoms, but always with the +same bottom: Between the last-mentioned latitude and 43 deg. 16' S. we had +only fine grey sand with the same variation of depths, except that +we once or twice lessened the water to 40 fathoms. After this we +continued in 40 fathoms for about half a degree, having a bottom of +coarse sand and broken shells, at which time we were in sight of land +at not above seven leagues distance. As we edged from the land we had +a variety of soundings; first black sand, then muddy, and soon after +rough ground with stones: But when we had increased our depth to +forty-eight fathoms, we had a muddy bottom to the lat. of 46 deg. 10' S. +Hence drawing near the shore, we had at first thirty-six fathoms, +and still kept shoaling till we came into twelve fathoms, having +constantly small stones and pebbles at the bottom. + +Part of this time we had a view of Cape Blanco, in about lat. 47 deg. +10' S. and long. 69 deg. W. from London.[2] Steering from hence S. by +E. nearly, we deepened our water to fifty fathoms in a run of about +thirty leagues, without once altering the bottom; and then drawing +towards the shore, with a S.W. course, varying rather westward, we had +constantly a sandy bottom till we came to thirty fathoms, when we had +again a sight of land in about lat. 48 deg. 31' S. We made this land on +the 17th February, and came to anchor at five that afternoon in lat. +48 deg. 58' S. with the same soundings as before; the southermost land +then in view bearing S.S.W. the northermost N.E. a small island N.W. +and the westermost hummock W.S.W. At this anchorage we found the tide +to set S. by W. + +[Footnote 2: Cape Blanco is in lat 47 deg. 20' S. long. 64 deg. 30' W. from +Greenwich. At this place, instead of a description of Cape Blanco, the +original gives two views of the coast in different directions, as seen +from sea; here omitted for reasons already assigned.--E.] + +We weighed anchor at five next morning, and an hour afterwards +descried a sail, which was soon found to be the Pearl, which had +separated from us a few days after leaving St Catharines. Yet she +increased her sail and stood away from the Gloucester; and when she +came up, the people of the Pearl had their hammocks in their netting, +and every thing ready for an engagement. The Pearl joined us about +two in the afternoon, and running up under our stern, Lieutenant +Salt informed the commodore that Captain Kidd had died on the 31st +of January. He likewise said that he had seen five large ships on +the 10th of this month, which he for some time imagined had been our +squadron, insomuch that he suffered the commanding ship, which wore a +red broad pendant exactly resembling that of our commodore at the +main top-mast head, to come within gun-shot of the Pearl before he +discovered the mistake; but then, finding it was not the Centurion, +he haled close upon a wind and crowded from theirs with all sail; and +standing across a rippling, where they hesitated to follow, he happily +escaped. He had made them out to be five Spanish ships of war, one of +which was so exceedingly like the Gloucester that he was under great +apprehension when chased now by the Gloucester. He thought they +consisted of two seventy-gun ships, two of fifty, and one of forty; +the whole of which squadron chased him all that day, but at night, +finding they could not get near, they gave over the chase and stood +away to the southward. + +Had we not been under the necessity of refitting the Tryal, this +intelligence would have prevented our making any stay at St Julians; +but as it was impossible for that sloop to proceed round Cape Horn +in her present condition, some stay there became inevitable; and +therefore we came to an anchor again the same evening in twenty-five +fathoms, the bottom a mixture of mud and sand, a high hummock bearing +from us S.W. by W. Weighing at nine next morning, we sent the cutters +of the Centurion and Severn in shore to discover the harbour of St +Julian, while the ships kept standing along the coast about a league +from the land. At six in the evening we anchored in the bay of St +Julian, in nineteen fathoms, the bottom muddy ground with sand, the +northermost land in sight bearing N. by E. the S. 1/2 E. and the +high hummock, called Wood's Mount by Sir John Narborough, W.S.W. The +cutters returned soon after, having discovered the harbour, which did +not appear to us where we lay, the northermost point shutting in upon +the southermost, and closing the entrance in appearance. + +Our principal object in coming to anchor in this bay was to refit the +Tryal, in which business the carpenters were immediately employed. Her +main-mast had been carried away about twelve feet below the cap, but +they contrived to make the remainder of the mast serve. The Wager +was directed to supply her with a spare main-top-mast, which +the carpenters converted into a new fore-mast. And I cannot help +observing, that this accident to the Tryal's masts, which gave us so +much uneasiness at the time on account of the delay it occasioned, was +the means, in all probability, of preserving this sloop and all her +crew. For her masts before this were much too lofty for the high +southern latitudes we were proceeding into, so that, if they had +weathered the preceding storm, it would have been impossible for them +to have stood against the seas and tempests we afterwards encountered +in passing round Cape Horn; and the loss of masts, in that boisterous +climate, would scarcely have been attended with less than the loss of +the vessel and all on board, as it would have been impracticable for +the other ships to have given them any assistance whatever, during the +continuance of these impetuous storms. + +While at this place, the commodore appointed the honourable Captain +Murray to succeed to the Pearl, and Captain Cheap to the Wager. He +promoted Mr Charles Saunders, first lieutenant of the Centurion, to +the command of the Tryal sloop; but, as Mr Saunders lay dangerously +ill of a fever in the Centurion, and the surgeons considered his +removal to his own ship might hazard his life, Mr Saumarez had +orders to act as commander of the Tryal during the illness of Captain +Saunders. + +At this place, the commodore held a consultation with his captains +about unloading and discharging the Anna pink; but they represented +that, so far from being in a condition for taking her loading on +board, their ships still had great quantities of provisions in the way +of their guns between decks, and that their ships were so deep and so +lumbered that they would not be fit for action without being cleared. +It was therefore necessary to retain the pink in the service; and, as +it was apprehended that we should meet with the Spanish squadron in +passing the cape, Mr Anson ordered all the provisions that were in +the way of the guns to be put on board the Anna pink, and that all the +guns which had been formerly lowered into the holds, for the ease of +the ships, should be remounted. + +As this bay and harbour of St Julian is a convenient rendezvous, in +case of separation, for all cruizers bound to the southwards, or to +any part of the coast of Patagonia, from the Rio Plata to the Straits +of Magellan, as it lies nearly parallel to their usual route, a +short account of the singularity of this country, with a particular +description of Port St. Julian, may perhaps be neither unacceptable to +the curious, nor unworthy the attention of future navigators, as some +of them, by unforeseen accidents, may be obliged to run in with the +land and to make some stay on this coast; in which case a knowledge of +the country, and of its productions and inhabitants, cannot fail to be +of the utmost consequence to them. + +The tract of country usually called Patagonia, or that southern +portion of South America, not possessed by the Spaniards, extends +from their settlements to the Straits of Magellan. This country on its +eastern side, along the Atlantic ocean, from the Rio Plata southwards, +is remarkable for having no trees of any kind, except a few peach +trees planted by the Spaniards in the neighbourhood of Buenos Ayres; +so that the whole eastern coast of Patagonia, extending near four +hundred leagues from north to south, and as far back into the interior +as any discoveries have yet been made, contains nothing that can be +called by the name of wood, and only a few insignificant shrubs +in some places. Sir John Narborough, who was sent out expressly by +Charles II to examine this country, wintered upon this coast in Port +St Julian and Port Desire, in the year 1670, and declares that he did +not see a stick in the whole country large enough to make the handle +of a hatchet. But, although this country be destitute of wood, it +abounds in pasture, as the whole land seems made up of downs of a +light dry and gravelly soil, producing great quantities of long grass, +which grows in tufts, interspersed with large spots of barren gravel. +In many places this grass feeds immense herds of cattle, all derived +from a few European cattle brought over by the Spaniards at their +first settling, which have thriven and multiplied prodigiously, owing +to the abundance of herbage which they every where met with, and +are now so increased and extended so far into different parts of +Patagonia, that they are not considered as private property; thousands +of them being slaughtered every year by the hunters, only for their +hides and tallow. + +The manner of killing these cattle, being peculiar to that part of the +world, merits a circumstantial description. Both Spaniards and Indians +in that country are usually most excellent horsemen; and accordingly +the hunters employed on this occasion are all mounted on horseback, +armed with a kind of spear, which, instead of the usual point or blade +in the same line with the shaft, has its blade fixed across. Armed +with this instrument, they ride at a beast and surround him, when the +hunter that is behind hamstrings him, so that he soon falls, and +is unable to rise from the ground, where they leave him and proceed +against others, whom they serve in the same manner. Sometimes there is +a second party attending the hunters, on purpose to skin the cattle as +they fall; but it is said that the hunters sometimes prefer to leave +them to languish in torment till next day, from an opinion that the +lengthened anguish bursts the lymphatics, and thereby facilitates the +separation of the skin from the carcass. Their priests have loudly +condemned this most barbarous practice, and have even gone so far, if +my memory do not deceive me, as to excommunicate such as persist to +follow it, yet all their efforts to put an entire stop to it have +hitherto proved ineffectual. + +Besides great numbers of cattle which are slaughtered every year in +this manner, for their hides and tallow, it is often necessary, for +the uses of agriculture, and for other purposes, to catch them alive, +and without wounding them. This is performed with a most wonderful +and most incredible dexterity, chiefly by means of an implement or +contrivance which the English who have resided at Buenos Ayres usually +denominate a lash. This consists of a very strong thong of raw hide, +several fathoms in length, with a running noose at one end. This the +hunter, who is on horseback, takes in his right hand, being properly +coiled up, and the other end fastened to the saddle: Thus prepared, +the hunters ride at a herd of cattle, and when arrived within a +certain distance of a beast, they throw their thong at him with such +exactness, that they never fail to fix the noose about his horns. +Finding himself thus entangled, the beast usually endeavours to run +away, but the hunter attends his motions, and the horse being swifter, +the thong is prevented from being so much straitened as to break, till +another hunter throws another noose about one of his hind-legs. When +this is done, the horses being trained to the sport, instantly turn in +opposite directions, straining the two thongs contrary ways, by which +the beast is overthrown. The horses then stop, keeping both thongs +on the stretch, so that the beast remains on the ground incapable of +resistance; and the two hunters alight from their horses and secure +the beast in such a manner that they afterwards easily convey him to +wherever they please. + +They catch horses by means of similar nooses, and are even said to +catch tigers in the same manner, which, however strange it may appear, +is asserted by persons of credit. It must be owned, indeed, that the +address both of Spaniards and Indians in this part of the world, in +the use of this lash or noose, and the certainty with which they throw +and fix it on any intended part of a beast, even at a considerable +distance, is so wonderful as only to be credited and repeated on the +concurrent testimony of all who have frequented this country. The +cattle killed in the before-mentioned manner are slaughtered only for +their hides and tallow, and sometimes their tongues also are taken +out; but the rest of the flesh is left to putrify, or to be devoured +by birds of prey and wild beasts. The greatest part of it falls to the +share of the wild-dogs, of which there are immense numbers to be found +in the country. These are all supposed to be descended of Spanish dogs +from Buenos Ayres, which had left their masters, allured by the great +quantity of carrion, and had run wild where they had such facility +of subsisting, for they are plainly of the European breed of dogs. +Although these dogs are said to prowl in vast packs, even some +thousands together, they do not diminish the number, nor prevent the +increase of the cattle, as they dare not attack the herds, by reason +of the vast numbers that feed together, but content themselves with +the carrion left by the hunters, and perhaps now and then meet with +a few stragglers, separated accidentally from the herds to which they +belong. + +This country, to the southward of Buenos Ayres, is also stocked with +great numbers of wild-horses, brought also originally from Spain, and +prodigiously increased, and extending to a much greater distance than +the cattle. Though many of these are excellent, their numbers +make them of very little value, the best of them being sold in the +neighbouring settlements, where money is plenty and commodities very +dear, for not more than a dollar a piece. It is not certain how far to +the southwards these herds of wild cattle and horses extend; but there +is reason to believe that stragglers of both are to be met with very +near the Straits of Magellan, and they will doubtless in time fill +all the southern part of the continent with their breeds, which cannot +fail to be of vast advantage to such ships as may touch on the coast. +The horses are said to be very good eating, and are even preferred by +some of the Indians before the cattle. But however plentiful Patagonia +may hereafter become in regard to flesh, this eastern coast of that +extensive country seems very defective in regard to fresh water; for +as the land is generally of a nitrous and saline nature, the ponds +and streams are frequently brackish. However, as good water has been +found, though in small quantities, it is not improbable but this +inconvenience may be removed, on a farther search. + +There are also in all parts of this country a good number of +_Vicunnas_, or Peruvian sheep, but these, by reason of their +swiftness, are very difficultly killed. On the eastern coast, also, +there are immense quantities of seals, and a vast variety of sea-fowl, +among which the most remarkable are the penguins. These are, in size +and shape, like a goose, but have short stumps like fins instead of +wings, which are of no use to them except when in the water. Their +bills are narrow, like that of the albatross, and they stand and walk +quite erect, from which circumstance, and their white bellies, Sir +John Narborough has whimsically likened them to little children +standing up in white aprons. + +The inhabitants of this eastern coast, to which hitherto I confine my +observations, appear to be but few, and rarely have more than two or +three of them been seen at a time by any ships that have touched here. +During our stay at Port St Julian we did not see any. Towards +Buenos Ayres, however, they are sufficiently numerous, and are very +troublesome to the Spaniards: But there the greater breadth and +variety of the country, and a milder climate, yield them greater +conveniences. In that part the continent is between three and four +hundred leagues in breadth, while at Port St Julian it is little more +than one hundred. I conceive, therefore, that the same Indians who +frequent the western coast of Patagonia, and the northern shore of the +Straits of Magellan, often ramble to this eastern side. As the Indians +near Buenos Ayres are more numerous than those farther south, they +also greatly excel them in spirit and activity, and seem nearly allied +in their manners to the gallant Chilese Indians, [Araucanians] who +have long set the whole Spanish power at defiance, have often ravaged +their country, and remain to this hour independent. The Indians about +Buenos Ayres have learned to be excellent horsemen, and are extremely +expert in the management of all cutting weapons, though ignorant of +fire-arms, which the Spaniards are exceedingly solicitous to keep from +them. Of the vigour and resolution of these Indians, the behaviour +of Orellana and his followers, formerly mentioned, is a memorable +instance. + +This much may suffice respecting the eastern coast of Patagonia. The +western coast is of less extent; and, by reason of the Andes which +skirt it, and stretch quite down to the sea side, the shore is very +rocky and dangerous. As I shall hereafter have occasion to take +farther notice of that coast, I shall not enlarge any farther +respecting it in this place, but shall conclude this account with a +short description of the harbour of St Julian, the general form of +which may be conceived from the annexed sketch. It must however be +noticed, that the bar there marked at the entrance has many holes in +it, and is often shifting. The tide flows here N. and S. and at full +and change rises four fathoms. On our first arrival, an officer was +sent on shore to the salt pond marked D. in the sketch, in order to +procure a quantity of salt for the use of the squadron; for Sir John +Narborough had observed, when he was here, that the salt was very +white and good, and that in February there was enough to have loaded a +thousand ships. But our officer returned with a sample which was very +bad, and said that even of this very little was to be had: I suppose +the weather had been more rainy this year than ordinary, and had +destroyed the salt, or prevented its fermentation. + + + +SECTION VII. + +_Departure from the Bay of St Julian, and Passage from thence to the +Straits of Le Maire._ + +The Tryal being nearly refitted, which was our principal occupation +at this bay, and sole occasion of our stay, the commodore thought +it necessary to fix the plan of his first operations, as we were +now directly bound for the South Seas and the enemy's coasts; and +therefore, on the 24th February, a signal was made for all captains, +and a council of war was held on board the Centurion. There were +present on this occasion the Honourable Edward Legg, Captain Matthew +Mitchell, the Honourable George Murray, Captain David Cheap, and +Colonel Mordaunt Cracherode, commander of the land-forces. At this +council, it was proposed by Commodore Anson, that their first attempt, +after arriving in the South Seas, should be against the town and +harbour of Baldivia, the principal frontier place in the south of +Chili, informing them, as an inducement for this enterprize, that it +formed part of his majesty's instructions to endeavour to secure +some port in the South Seas where the ships of the squadron might be +careened and refitted. The council readily and unanimously agreed +to this proposal; and, in consequence of this resolution, new +instructions were issued to the captains, by which, though still +directed, in case of separation, to make the best of their way to the +island of Socoro, they were only to cruize off that island for ten +days; from whence, if not then joined by the commodore, they were to +proceed off Baldivia, making the land between the latitudes of 40 deg. and +40 deg. 30' S. and taking care to keep to the southward of the port. If +not there joined in fourteen days by the rest of the squadron, they +were then to direct their course for the island of Juan Fernandez; +after which they were to regulate their farther proceedings by the +former orders given out at St Catharines. The same orders were also +given to the master of the Anna pink, who was enjoined to answer and +obey the signals made by any ship of the squadron, in absence of the +commodore; and, if he should be so unfortunate as to fell into the +hands of the enemy, he was directed to destroy his orders and papers +with the utmost care. Likewise, as the separation of the squadron +might prove highly prejudicial to the service, each captain was +ordered to give it in charge to the respective officers of the watch, +on all occasions, never to keep their respective ships at a greater +distance from the Centurion than two miles, as they should answer +at their peril; and if any captain should find his ship beyond the +specified distance, he was to acquaint the commodore with the name of +the officer who thus neglected his duty. + +These necessary regulations established, and the repairs of the Tryal +sloop completed, the squadron weighed from Port St Julians on Friday +the 27th February, 1741, at seven in the morning, and stood to sea. +The Gloucester found such difficulty in endeavouring to purchase her +anchor, that she was left a great way astern, so that we fired several +guns in the night as signals for her to make more sail: But she did +not rejoin us till next morning, when we learnt that she had been +obliged to cut her cable, leaving her best bower anchor behind. At ten +in the morning of the 28th, Wood's Mount, the high land over Port +St Julian, bore from us N. by W. distant ten leagues, and we had +fifty-two fathoms water. Standing now to the southward, we had great +expectations of falling in with the Spanish squadron under Pizarro; +as, during our stay at Port St Julian, there had generally been hard +gales between W.N.W. and S.W. so that we had reason to conclude that +squadron, had gained no ground upon us in that interval. Indeed, it +was the prospect of meeting them that had occasioned our commodore to +be so very solicitous to prevent the separation of our ships; for, had +he been solely intent on getting round Cape Horn in the shortest time, +the most proper method for this purpose would have been, to order each +ship to make the best of her way to the rendezvous, without waiting +for the rest. + +From the time of leaving Port St Julian to the 4th March, we had +little wind with thick hazy weather and some rain, and our soundings +were generally from forty to fifty fathoms, with a bottom of black +and gray sand, sometimes mixed with pebble stones. On the 4th March +we were in sight of Cape Virgin Mary, and not more than six or seven +leagues distant, the northern boundary of the eastern entrance of +the Straits of Magellan, in lat 52 deg. 21' S. long. 71 deg. 44' W. from +London.[1] It seemed a low flat land, ending in a point.[2] Off this +cape the depth of water was from thirty-five to forty-eight fathoms. +The afternoon of this day was bright and clear, with small breezes +of wind, inclining to a calm; and most of the captains took the +opportunity of this fine weather to visit the commodore. While all +were on board the Centurion, they were greatly alarmed by a sudden +flame bursting out in the Gloucester, followed by a cloud of +smoke; but were soon relieved of their apprehensions, by receiving +information that the blast had been occasioned by a spark of fire from +the forge lighting on some gun-powder, and other combustibles, which +an officer was preparing for use, in case of falling in with the +Spanish squadron, and which had exploded without any damage to the +ship. + +[Footnote 1: The longitude of Cape Virgin Mary, is only 67 deg. 42' W. +from Greenwich.--E.] + +[Footnote 2: By the draught in the original, omitted here for +substantial reasons already repeatedly stated, the coast at this +southern extremity of Patagonia is represented as a high bluff flat on +the top, and ending abruptly at this cape.--E.] + +We here found, what was constantly the case in these high southern +latitudes, that fair weather was always of exceedingly short +continuance, and that when remarkably fine it was a certain presage of +a succeeding storm: For the calm and sunshine of this afternoon ended +in a most turbulent night; the wind freshening from the S.W. as the +night came on; and increasing continually in violence till nine next +morning. It then blew so hard that we were forced to bring to with the +squadron, and to continue under a reefed mizen till eleven at night, +having in that time from forty-three to fifty-seven fathoms water +on black sand and gravel; and, by an observation we had at noon, we +concluded that a current had set us twelve miles to the southward +of our reckoning. Toward midnight the wind abated, and we again made +sail, steering S. In the morning we discovered the southern land +beyond the Straits of Magellan, called Terra del Fuego, stretching +from S. by W.S.E. 1/2 E. This country afforded a very uncomfortable +prospect, appearing of stupendous height, every where covered with +snow, and shewing at its southern extremity the entrance into the +Straits of Le Maire at Cape St Diego.[3] We steered along this +uncouth and rugged coast all day, having soundings from forty to fifty +fathoms, on stones and gravel. + +[Footnote 3: The western side of the entrance into the Straits of Le +Maire is formed by the Capes of St Vincent and St Diego; the former in +lat. 54 deg. 30', the latter in 54 deg. 40', both S. and long. 65 deg. 40' W.] + +Intending to pass through the straits of Le Maire next day, we lay to +at night that we might not overshoot them, and took this opportunity +to prepare ourselves for the tempestuous climate in which we were soon +to be engaged, with which view we were employed good part of the night +in bending an entire new suit of sails to the yards. At four next +morning, being the 7th of March, we made sail, and at eight saw land, +and soon after began to open the straits, at which time Cape St Diego +bore E.S.E. Cape St Vincent S.E. 1/2 E. the middlemost of the Three +Brothers, hills so called on Terra del Fuego S. by W. Montegorda, a +high land up the country appearing over the Three Brothers; S. and +Cape St Bartholomew, the southernmost point of Staten Land, E.S.E. I +must observe here that, though Frezier has given a very correct view +of that part of Terra del Fuego which borders on these straits to the +westwards, he has omitted the draught of Staten Land, which forms +the opposite shore of these straits, whence we found it difficult to +determine exactly where the straits lay until they began to open upon +our view; and hence, had we not coasted a considerable way along the +shore of Terra del Fuego, we might have missed the straits, and have +gone to the eastward of Staten Land before discovering it. This has +happened to many ships; particularly, as mentioned by Frezier, to the +Incarnation and Concord, which, intending to pass through the Straits +of Le Maire, were deceived by three hills on Staten Land, and some +creeks, resembling the Three Brothers and coves of Terra del Fuego, so +that they overshot the straits. + +Though Terra del Fuego presented an aspect exceedingly barren and +desolate, yet this island of Staten Land far surpasses it in the +wildness and horror of its appearance, seeming to be entirely composed +of inaccessible rocks, without the smallest apparent admixture of +earth or mould, upon or between them. These rocks terminate in a vast +number of rugged points, which spire up to a prodigious height, +and are all covered with everlasting snow; their pointed summits or +pinnacles being every way surrounded by frightful precipices, and +often overhanging in a most astonishing manner. The hills which are +crowned by the rugged rocks, are generally separated from each other +by narrow clifts, appearing as if the country had been frequently rent +by earthquakes; for these chasms are nearly perpendicular, and extend +through the substance of the main rocks almost to their bases; so that +nothing can be imagined more savage and gloomy than the whole aspect +of this coast. + +Having opened the Straits of Le Maire on the morning of the 7th March, +as before mentioned, the Pearl and Tryal, about ten o'clock, +were ordered to keep a-head of the squadron and lead the way. We +accordingly entered the straits with fair weather and a brisk gale, +and were hurried through by the rapidity of the tide in about two +hours, though they are between seven and eight leagues in length. As +these straits are often esteemed the boundary between the Atlantic and +Pacific oceans, and as we presumed that we had nothing now before us +but an open sea, till we should arrive on the opulent coasts where all +our hopes and wishes centered, we could not help flattering ourselves +that the greatest difficulty of our voyage was now at an end, and +that our most sanguine dreams were on the point of being realized. We +indulged ourselves, therefore, in the romantic imaginations which +the fancied possession of the gold of Chili and silver of Peru might +readily be conceived to inspire. These joyous ideas were considerably +heightened, by the brightness of the sky and serenity of the weather, +which indeed were both most remarkably delightful: For, though the +antarctic winter was now advancing with hasty strides, the morning of +this day, in mildness and even brilliancy, gave place to none that +we had seen since our departure from England. Thus, animated by these +flattering delusions, we passed those memorable straits, ignorant of +the dreadful calamities then impending, and ready to burst upon us; +ignorant that the moment was fast approaching when our squadron was to +be separated, never again to unite; and that this day of our passage +was the last cheerful day that the greatest part of us was ever to +enjoy in this world. + + + +SECTION VIII. + +_Course from the Straits of Le Maire to Cape Noir._ + +We had scarcely reached the southern extremity of the Straits of Le +Maire, when our flattering hopes were almost instantly changed to the +apprehension of immediate destruction. Even before the sternmost ships +of the squadron were clear of the straits, the serenity of the sky was +suddenly obscured, and we observed all the presages of an impending +storm. The wind presently shifted to the southward, and blew in +such violent squalls that we had to hand our top-sails and reef our +main-sail; while the tide, which had hitherto favoured us, turned +furiously adverse, and drove us to the eastward with prodigious +rapidity, so that we were in great anxiety for the Wager and Anna +pink, the two sternmost vessels, fearing they might be dashed to +pieces upon the shore of Staten Land; nor were our apprehensions +without foundation, as they weathered that coast with the utmost +difficulty. Instead of pursuing our intended course to the S.W. the +whole squadron was now drifted to the eastward, by the united force of +the storm and current; so that next morning we found ourselves nearly +seven leagues eastward of the straits, which then bore from us N.W. + +The violence of the current, which had set us with so much +precipitation to the eastward, together with the fierceness and +constancy of the westerly winds, soon taught us to consider the +doubling of Cape Horn as an enterprize that might prove too mighty +for all our efforts; though some among us had so lately treated the +difficulties which former voyagers were said to have encountered in +this undertaking as little better than chimerical, and had supposed +them to have arisen from timidity and unskilfulness, rather than +from the real embarrassments of the winds and seas. But we were now +convinced, from severe experience, that these censures were rash and +ill founded; for the distresses with which we struggled during the +three succeeding months, will not be easily paralleled in the relation +of any former naval expedition; which, I doubt not, will be readily +allowed by those who shall carefully peruse the ensuing narration. + +From this storm, which came on before we were well clear of the +straits of Le Maire, we had a continual succession of such tempestuous +weather as surprised the oldest and most experienced mariners on +board, and obliged them to confess, that what they had hitherto called +storms were inconsiderable gales, when compared with those winds +we now encountered; which raised such short, and at times such +mountainous waves, as greatly surpassed in danger all seas known +in other parts of the globe, and, not without reason, this unusual +appearance filled us with continual terror; for, had any one of these +waves broken fairly over us, it must almost inevitably have sent us +instantly to the bottom. Neither did we escape with terror only: +for the ship, rolling incessantly gunwale-to, gave us such quick and +violent jerking motions, that the men were in perpetual danger of +being dashed to pieces against the decks and sides of the ship; and, +though we were extremely careful to secure ourselves against these +shocks, by grasping some fixed body, yet many of our people were +forced from their holds, some of whom were actually killed, and others +greatly injured. In particular, one of our best seamen was canted +overboard and drowned; another dislocated his neck; a third was thrown +down the main hatchway into the hold and broke his thigh; one of our +boatswain's mates broke his collar-bone twice; not to mention many +other similar accidents. + +These tempests, so dreadful in themselves, though unattended by any +other unfavourable circumstances, were yet rendered more mischievous +to us by their inequality, and by the deceitful intervals that at +times occurred; for, although we had often to lie-to for days together +under a reefed mizen, and were frequently reduced to drive at the +mercy of the winds and waves under bare poles, yet now and then we +ventured to make sail under double-reefed courses; and occasionally, +the weather proving more moderate, were perhaps encouraged to set our +top-sails; after which, without any previous notice, the wind would +return with redoubled force, and would in an instant tear our sails +from the yards. And, that no circumstance might be wanting which could +aggravate our distress, these blasts generally brought with them a +great quantity of snow and sleet, which cased our rigging in ice, and +froze our sails, rendering them and our cordage so brittle as to tear +and snap with the least strain; adding thereby great difficulty and +labour to the working of the ship, benumbing the hands and limbs of +our people, and rendering them incapable of exerting themselves +with their accustomed activity, and even disabling many of them, by +inducing mortification of their toes and fingers. It were, indeed, +endless to enumerate the various disasters of different kinds which +befel us, and I shall only mention the most material, which will +sufficiently evince; the calamitous condition of the whole squadron, +during this part of our navigation. + +As already observed, it was on the 7th of March that we passed the +Straits of Le Maire, and were immediately afterwards driven to the +eastwards, by a violent storm, and by the force of the current setting +in that direction. During the four or five succeeding days, we had +hard gales of wind from the same western quarter, attended by a most +prodigious swell; insomuch that, although we stood all that time +towards the S.W. we had no reason to imagine we had made any way to +the westwards. In this interval we had frequent squalls of rain and +snow, and shipped great quantities of water. After this, for three +or four days, though the sea ran mountains high, yet the weather was +rather more moderate; but, on the 18th; we had again strong gales of +wind with excessive cold, and at midnight the main top-sail split, and +one of the straps of the main dead-eyes broke. From the 18th to the +23d the weather was more moderate, though, often intermixed with rain +and sleet and some hard gales; but, as the waves did not subside, +the ship, by labouring sore in this lofty sea, became so loose in her +upper-works that she let in water at every seam, so that every part of +her within board was constantly exposed to the sea-water, and scarcely +any even of the officers ever lay dry in their beds. Indeed, hardly +did two nights pass without many of them being driven from their beds +by deluges of water. + +On the 23d we had a most violent storm of wind, hail, and rain, with a +prodigious sea; and, though we handed the main-sail before the height +of the squall, yet we found the yard spring; and soon after, in +consequence of the foot-rope of the main-sail breaking, the main-sail +itself split instantly into rags, and much the greater part of it +was blown away, in spite of every endeavour to save it. On this the +commodore made the signal for the squadron to bring to; and as +the storm lulled into a calm, we had an opportunity to lower the +main-yard, and set the carpenters to work upon it, while we also +repaired our rigging; after which, having bent a new main-sail, we got +again under way with a moderate breeze. But, in less than twenty-four +hours, we had another storm, still more furious than the former, which +blew a perfect hurricane, and obliged us to lie-to under bare poles. +As our ship kept the wind better than any of the rest, we were obliged +in the afternoon to wear, in order to join the squadron to leeward, as +otherwise we had been in danger of parting from them in the night. On +this occasion, as we dared not venture to show any sail to the gale, +we had to use an expedient, which answered the purpose: This was +putting the helm a-weather and manning the fore-shrouds: But, though +this answered the end in view, yet in its execution one of our ablest +seamen was canted overboard. Notwithstanding the prodigious agitation +of the waves, we could perceive that he swam very vigorously, yet we +found ourselves, to our excessive concern, incapable of giving him the +smallest assistance; and were the more grieved at his unhappy fate, as +we lost sight of him struggling with the waves, and conceived that +he might continue long sensible of the horror of his irretrievable +situation. + +Before this storm was quite abated, we found that two of our +main-shrouds and one of our mizen-shrouds were broken, all of which +we knotted and replaced immediately. After this we had an interval of +three or four days less tempestuous than usual, but accompanied by so +thick a fog, that we had to fire guns almost every half hour to keep +our squadron together. On the 31st we were alarmed by a gun from the +Gloucester, and a signal to speak the commodore. We immediately bore +down to her, prepared to learn some terrible disaster, of which we +were apprised before we came down, by seeing that her main-yard was +broken in the slings. This was a grievous misfortune to us all, at +this juncture, as it was evident that it must prove a hinderance to +our sailing, and would detain us the longer in these inhospitable +latitudes. Our future safety and success was not to be promoted by +repining, but by resolution and activity; and therefore, that this +unhappy incident might delay us as short as possible, the commodore +ordered several carpenters to be put on board the Gloucester from the +other ships of the squadron, in order to repair her damage with +the utmost expedition. At this time also, the captain of the Tryal +represented that his pumps were so bad, and his ship made so much +water, that he was scarcely able to keep her free; wherefore the +commodore ordered him a pump, ready fitted, from the Centurion. It was +very fortunate, both for the Gloucester and Tryal, that the weather +proved more favourable that day, than for many days both before and +after; since by this means they were enabled to receive the assistance +which seemed so essential for their preservation, and which they +could scarcely have procured at any other time, as it would have been +extremely hazardous to have ventured a boat on board. + +Next day, being the 1st of April, the weather returned to its +customary bias; the sky looking dark and gloomy, and the wind +beginning to freshen and to blow in squalls; yet it was not so +boisterous as to prevent us carrying our top-sails close reefed, +but its appearance evidently prognosticated that a still more severe +tempest was at hand. Accordingly, on the 3d of April, there came on a +storm, which, both in its violence and duration, for it lasted three +days, exceeded all we had hitherto experienced. In its first onset, +we received a furious shock from a sea, which broke upon our larboard +quarter, where it stove in the quarter gallery, and rushed into the +ship like a deluge. Our rigging suffered also extremely from the blow; +among the rest, one of the straps of the main dead-eyes was broken, as +were likewise a main shroud and a puttock shroud; so that, to ease the +stress upon the masts and shrouds, we had to lower both our main and +fore yards, and to furl all our sails. We lay in this posture for +three days, when, the storm somewhat abating, we ventured to make sail +under our courses only. Even this would not avail us long; for +next day, being the 7th, we had another hard gale, accompanied with +lightning and rain, which obliged as to lie-to all night. + +It was really wonderful, notwithstanding the severe weather we +endured, that no extraordinary accident had happened to any of the +squadron since the Gloucester broke her main-yard. But this good +fortune now no longer attended us, for, at three next morning, several +guns were fired to leeward as signals of distress, on which the +commodore made the signal for the squadron to bring to. At day-break +we saw the Wager a considerable way to leeward of any of the other +ships, and soon perceived that she had lost her mizen-mast, and main +topsail-yard. We immediately bore down towards her, and found that +this disaster had arisen from the badness of her iron-work, as all the +chain plates to windward had given way, in consequence of her having +fetched a deep roll. This accident proved the more unfortunate for the +Wager, as her captain had been on board the Gloucester ever since +the 31st March, and the weather was now too severe to permit of his +return. Nor was the Wager the only ship in the squadron that suffered +in this tempest; for next day, a signal of distress was made by the +Anna pink, and on speaking her, we found she had broken her fore-stay +and the gammon of her boltsprit, and was in no small danger of all her +masts coming by the board; so that the whole squadron had to bear away +to leeward till she made all fast, after which we again hauled upon a +wind. + +After all our solicitude, and the numerous ills of every kind, to +which we had been incessantly exposed for near forty days, we now +had great consolation in the hope that our fatigues were drawing to +a close, and that we should soon arrive in a more hospitable +climate, where we should be amply rewarded for all our past toils and +sufferings; for, towards the latter end of March, by our reckoning, we +had advanced near ten degrees to the west of the westermost point +of Terra del Fuego; and, as this allowance was double what former +navigators had thought necessary to compensate the drift of the +western current, we esteemed ourselves to be well advanced within +the limits of the Southern Pacific, and had been, ever since then, +standing to the northward, with as much expedition as the turbulence +of the weather and our frequent disasters would permit. On the 13th of +April, in addition to our before-mentioned westing, we were only one +degree of latitude to the southward of the western entrance into the +Straits of Magellan, so that we fully expected in a very few days to +experience the celebrated tranquillity of the Pacific Ocean. But these +were only delusions, which served to render our disappointment more +terrible. On the morning of the 14th, between two and three o'clock, +the weather, which till then had been hazy, fortunately cleared up, +and the pink made a signal for seeing the land right a-head; and, as +it was only two miles distant, we were all under the most dreadful +apprehensions of running on shore; which, had either the wind blown +from its usual quarter, with its wonted violence, or had not the moon +suddenly shone out, not a ship of the whole squadron could possibly +have avoided. But the wind, which some hours before blew in squalls +from the S.W. had fortunately shifted to W.N.W. by which we were +enabled to stand to the southward, and to clear ourselves of this +sudden and unexpected danger, and were fortunate enough by noon to +have gained an offing of near twenty leagues. + +By the latitude of this land we fell in with, it was agreed to be that +part of Terra del Fuego, near the south-western outlet of the Straits +of Magellan, described in Frezier's chart, and was supposed to be that +point which he calls Cape Noir.[1] It was indeed wonderful that the +current should have driven us to the eastward with so much strength, +for the whole squadron computed that we were ten degrees to the +westward of this land; so that in turning, by our reckoning, about +nineteen degrees of longitude, we had not in reality advanced half +that distance: And now, instead of having our labours and anxieties +relieved by approaching a warmer climate, and more tranquil seas, we +were forced again to steer southwards, and had again to combat those +western blasts which had already so often terrified us; and this +too, when we were greatly enfeebled by our men falling sick and dying +apace, and when our spirits, dejected by long continuance at sea +and by this severe disappointment, were now much less capable of +supporting us through the various difficulties and dangers, which we +could not but look for in this new and arduous undertaking. Added to +all this, we were sore discouraged by the diminution in the strength +of the squadron; for, three days before this, we had lost sight of the +Severn and Pearl in the morning, and, though we spread our ships, and +beat about for them for some time, we never saw them more; whence we +apprehended that they also had fallen in with this land in the night, +and being less favoured by the wind and the moon, might have perished +by running on shore. Full of these desponding thoughts and +gloomy presages, we stood away to the S.W. prepared, by our late +disappointment, how large an allowance soever we made in our westing +for the drift of the current from the westward, that we might still +find it insufficient upon a second trial. + +[Footnote 1: Cape Noir, is a small island off the western coast of +Terra del Fuego, is in lat. 54 deg. 28' S. long, 78 deg. 40' W.--E.] + + + +SECTION IX. + +_Observations and Directions for facilitating the Passage of future +Navigators round Cape Horn._ + +The improper season of the year in which we attempted to double Cape +Horn, and to which is to be imputed the before-recited disappointment, +in falling in with Terra del Fuego, when we reckoned ourselves above +an hundred leagues to the westward of that coast, and consequently +well advanced into the Pacific Ocean, to which we were necessitated by +our too late departure from England, was the fatal source of all the +misfortunes we afterwards experienced. For, from hence proceeded the +separation of our ships, the destruction of so many of our people, the +ruin of our project against Baldivia, and of all our other views on +the Spanish settlements, and the reduction of our squadron, from the +formidable condition in which it passed the Straits of Le Maire, to a +couple of shattered half-manned cruizers and a sloop, so exceedingly +disabled that, in many climates, they scarcely durst have put to +sea. To prevent, therefore, as much as in me lies, the recurrence of +similar calamities to all ships bound hereafter to the South Seas, +I think it my duty to insert in this place such observations and +directions, as either my own experience and reflection, or the +conversation of the most skilful navigators on board the squadron, +could furnish me with, as to the most eligible manner of doubling Cape +Horn, whether in regard to the season of the year, the course proper +to be steered, or the places of refreshment both on the eastern and +western sides of South America. + +To begin with the proper place for refreshment on the eastern side of +South America. For this purpose the island of St Catharines has been +usually recommended by former writers, and on their authority we put +in there; but the treatment we experienced, and the small store of +refreshments we could procure their are sufficient reasons to render +all ships very cautious in future how they trust to the government of +Don Jose Sylva de Paz; for they may assuredly depend on having their +strength, condition, and designs betrayed to the Spaniards, as far as +the knowledge the governor can procure of these particulars may enable +him. As this treacherous conduct was inspired by the views of private +gain, in the illicit commerce carried on to the river Plate, rather +than by any natural affection between the Portuguese and Spaniards, +the same perfidy may perhaps be expected from most of the governors on +the coast of Brazil, since these smuggling engagements are doubtless +very general and extensive; and, though the governors themselves +should detest so faithless a procedure, yet, as ships are perpetually +passing from one or other of the Brazilian ports to the Rio Plata, +the Spaniards could scarcely fail of receiving intelligence, by this +means, of any British ships being on the coast; and, however imperfect +such intelligence might be, it might prove injurious to the views and +interests of cruizers thus discovered. + +As the Spanish trade in the South Seas is all in one direction, from +north to south, or the direct reverse, with very little deviation +to the eastward or westward, it is in the power, of two or three +cruisers, properly stationed on different parts of this track, to +possess themselves of every ship that puts to sea. This, however, +can only be the case so long as they continue concealed from the +neighbouring coast; for, the moment that an enemy is known to be in +these seas, all navigation is prohibited, and all chance of capture +is consequently at an end; as the Spaniards, well aware of these +advantages to an enemy, send expresses all along the coast, and lay +a general embargo on all trade; which measure they know will not +only prevent their vessels from being taken, but must soon oblige +all cruisers, that have not sufficient strength to attempt their +settlements on shore, to quit these seas for want of provisions. Hence +the great importance of carefully concealing all expeditions of this +kind is quite evident; and hence too it is obvious how extremely +prejudicial such intelligence must prove as that communicated by the +Portuguese to the Spaniards in our case, in consequence of touching at +the ports of Brazil. Yet it will often happen that ships, bound beyond +Cape Horn, may be obliged to call there for wood, water, and other +refreshments; in which case, St Catharines is the very last place I +would recommend; both because the proper animals for a live stock at +sea, as hogs, sheep, and fowls, are not to be procured there, for want +of which we found ourselves greatly distressed, being reduced to live +almost entirely on salt provisions; and because, from that port being +nearer the Rio Plata than many others of the Portuguese settlements, +the inducements and conveniences for betraying us to the Spaniards +were so much the stronger. The place I would recommend is Rio Janeiro, +where two of our squadron put in, after separating from us in passing +Cape Horn. At this place, as I was informed by a gentleman on board +one of these ships, any quantity of hogs and poultry can be procured; +and as it is more distant from the Rio Plata, the difficulty of +sending intelligence to the Spaniards is somewhat increased, and +consequently the chance of continuing there undiscovered is so much +the greater. Other measures, which may effectually obviate all these +embarrassments, will be considered more at large hereafter. + +I proceed, in the next place, to consider of the proper measures to +be pursued for doubling Cape Horn: And here, I think I am sufficiently +authorized, by our own fatal experience, and by a careful comparison +and examination of the journals of former navigators, to give the +following advice, which ought never, in prudence, to be departed from: +Which is, That all ships bound to the South Seas, instead of passing +through the Straits of Le Maire, should constantly pass by the +eastward of Staten-Land, and should be invariably bent on running as +far as the latitude of 61 deg. or 62 deg. S. before they endeavour to stand to +the westwards; and ought then to make sure of a sufficient westing +in or about that latitude, before commencing a northern course. But, +since directions diametrically opposite to these have been formerly +given by other writers, it is incumbent on me to produce my reasons +for each part of this maxim. + +First then, as to the propriety of passing to the eastward of +Staten-Land. Those who have attended to the risk we ran in passing +the Straits of Le Maire, the danger we were in of being driven upon +Staten-Land by the current, when, though we happily escaped being +driven on shore, we were yet carried to the eastward of that island: +those, I say, who reflect on this and the like accidents which have +happened to other ships, will surely not esteem it prudent to +pass through these straits and run the risk of shipwreck, and find +themselves, after all, no farther to the westward, the only reason +hitherto given for this practice, than they might have been, in the +same time, by a more secure navigation in an open sea. And next, as +to the directions I have given for running into the latitude of 61 deg. +or 62 deg. S. before any endeavour is made to stand to the westward. The +reasons for this precept are, that, in all probability, the violence +of the current setting from the westward will be thereby avoided, +and the weather will prove less tempestuous and uncertain. This +last circumstance we experienced most remarkably; for after we had +unexpectedly fallen in with the land at Cape Noir, we stood away +southward to get clear of it; and were no sooner advanced into the +lat. of 60 deg. S. or upwards, than we met with much better weather and +smoother water than in any other part of this whole passage. The air +indeed was very sharp and cold, and we had strong gales, but they were +steady and uniform, and we had at the same time sunshine and a clear +sky: whereas in the lower latitudes, the wind every now and then +intermitted, as it were, to recover new strength, and then returned +suddenly in the most violent gusts, threatening at every blast to blow +away our masts, which must have proved our inevitable destruction. + +Also, that the currents in this high latitude would be of much +less efficacy than nearer the land, seems to be evinced by these +considerations: That all currents run with greater violence near the +shore than out at sea, and that at great distances from the land +they are scarcely perceptible. The reason of this seems sufficiently +obvious, if we consider that constant currents, in all probability, +are produced by constant winds; the wind, though with a slow and +imperceptible motion, driving a large body of water continually before +it, which, being accumulated on any coast that it meets with in its +course, must escape along the shore by the endeavours of the surface +to reduce itself to the level of the rest of the ocean. It is likewise +reasonable to suppose, that those violent gusts of wind which we +experienced near the shore, so very different from what we found in +the lat. of 60 deg. S. and upwards, may be owing to a similar cause; for a +westerly wind almost perpetually prevails in the southern part of +the Pacific Ocean, and this current of air being interrupted by the +enormously high range of the Andes, and by the mountains on Terra del +Fuego, which together bar up the whole country as far south as Cape +Horn, a part only of the wind can force its way over the top of +these prodigious precipices, while the rest must naturally follow the +direction of the coast, and must range down the land to the southward, +and sweep with an impetuous and irregular blast round Cape Horn, and +the southermost part of Terra del Fuego. Without placing too +much reliance on these speculations, we may assume, I believe, as +incontestable facts, that both the rapidity of the currents, and the +violence of the western gales, are less sensible in lat. 61 deg. or 62 deg. S. +than nearer the coasts of Terra del Fuego. + +Though satisfied, both from our own experience and the relations of +other navigators, of the importance of the precept here insisted on, +of proceeding to lat. 61 deg. or 62 deg. S. before any endeavours are made to +stand to the westwards, yet I would also advise all ships hereafter +not to trust so far to this management as to neglect another most +essential maxim: Which is, to make this passage in the height of the +_antarctic summer_, or, in other words, in the months of December and +January, which correspond exactly to the months of June and July in +our northern or arctic hemisphere: and the more distant the time +of passing may be from this season, so much the more disastrous the +passage may reasonably be expected to prove. Indeed, if the mere +violence of the western winds be considered, the time of our passage, +which was about the antarctic autumnal equinox, was perhaps the most +favourable period of the whole year. But then it must be considered +that there are, independent of the winds, many other inconveniences to +be apprehended in the depth of winter, which are almost insuperable. +For, at that season, the severity of the cold, and the shortness of +the days, would render it impracticable to run so far to the southward +as is here recommended. The same reasons would also greatly augment +the danger and alarm of sailing, at that season, in the neighbourhood +of an unknown shore, dreadful in its appearance, even in the midst of +summer, and would render a winter navigation on this coast, beyond all +others, most dismaying and terrible. As I would, therefore, advise all +ships to make their passage, if possible, in December and January, +so I would warn them never to attempt doubling Cape Horn, from the +eastward, after the month of March, which is equivalent to our August. +As to the remaining consideration, in regard to the most proper place +for cruizers to refit at, on their first arrival in the South Seas, +there is scarcely any choice, the island of Juan Fernandez being the +only place that can be prudently recommended for that purpose. For, +although there are many ports on the western side of Patagonia, +between the Straits of Magellan, one of which I shall particularly +notice in the sequel, in which ships may ride in great safety, and may +also recruit their wood and water, and procure some few refreshments, +yet that coast is in itself so extremely dangerous, owing to its +numerous rocks and breakers, and to the violence of the western winds, +which blow upon it continually, that it is by no means advisable +to fall in with that coast, at least till the roads, channels, and +anchorages in each part of it have been accurately surveyed, and both +the perils and shelters with which it abounds are more distinctly +known. + +Having thus given the best directions in my power, for the success of +our cruizers that may be hereafter bound to the South Seas, it might +be expected that I should now resume the narrative of our voyage. Yet +as, both in the preceding and subsequent parts of this work, I have +thought it my duty not only to recite all such facts, and to inculcate +such maxims, as had even the least appearance of proving beneficial to +future navigators, and also to recommend such measures to the public +as seemed adapted to promote the same laudable purpose, I cannot +desist from the present subject without beseeching those persons to +whom the conduct of our naval affairs is confided, to endeavour +to remove the many perplexities and embarrassments with which the +navigation to the South Sea is at present encumbered. An effort of +this kind could not fail of proving highly honourable to themselves, +and extremely beneficial to their country; for it is sufficiently +evident, that whatever improvements navigation shall receive, either +by the invention of methods by which its practice may be rendered less +hazardous, or by the more accurate delineation of the coasts, roads, +and harbours already known, or by the discovery of new countries and +nations, or of new species and sources of commerce, the advantages +thence arising must ultimately redound to the emolument of Great +Britain. Since, as our fleets are at present superior to those of the +whole world united, it must be a matchless degree of supineness or +meanness of spirit, if we permit any of the advantages deriveable from +new discoveries, or from a more extended navigation, to be ravished +from us. + +Since it appears, from what has been already said, that all our future +expeditions to the South Seas must run a considerable risk of proving +abortive, while we remain under the necessity of touching at Brazil +in our passage thither, the discovery of some place more to the +southward, where ships might refresh, and supply themselves with the +necessary sea stock for their passage round Cape Horn, would relieve +us from this embarrassment, and would surely be a matter worthy of +the attention of the public. Neither does this seem difficult to be +effected, as we already have an imperfect knowledge of two places, +which might perhaps prove, on examination, extremely convenient for +this purpose. One of these is Pepy's Island, in the latitude of 47 deg. +S. and laid down by Dr Bailey about eighty leagues to the eastward +of Cape Blanco, on the coast of Patagonia.[1] The other is Falkland's +Islands, in lat. 51 deg. 30' S.[2] nearly south of Pepy's Island. + +[Footnote 1: Isla Grande, supposed to be the Pepy's Island discovered +by Cowley, is in lat. 46 deg. 34' S. and is placed by Mr Dalrymple in +long. 46 deg. 40' W. while the illustrious navigator Cook makes its long. +35 deg. 40' W. a difference of longitude of no less than eleven degrees.] + +[Footnote 2: The centre of Falkland's Islands is in 51 deg. 45' S. +Janson's Islands, the most north-westerly of the group, or the +Sebaldines, is in 51 deg.; and Beauchene's Isle, the most southerly, in +53 deg. S.--E.] + +The first of these was discovered by Captain Cowley in 1683, during +his voyage round the world, and is represented by that navigator as a +commodious place for ships to wood and water at, being provided with a +good and capacious harbour, where a thousand sail of ships might ride +at anchor in great safety, being also the resort of vast numbers of +fowls; and as its shores consist of either rocks or sands, it seems +to promise great plenty of fish. Falkland's Islands have been seen by +many navigators, both French and English. It is laid down by Frezier, +in his chart of the extremity of South America, under the name of +the New Islands. Woods Rogers, who ran along the N.E. coasts of these +islands in 1708, says they extend about two degrees in length,[3] and +appeared with gentle descents from hill to hill, seeming to be good +ground, interspersed with woods, and not destitute of harbours. + +[Footnote 3: The west extremity of this group is in long. 62 deg. W. and +the east extremity in 56 deg. 43' W. so that their extent is 5 deg. 12' in +difference of longitude.--E.] + +Either of these places, being islands at a considerable distance from +the continent, may be supposed, from their latitude, to be situated +in a sufficiently temperate climate. They are both, it is true, too +little known at present to be recommended as the most eligible +places of refreshment for ships bound to the South Seas: But, if the +admiralty should think proper to order them to be surveyed, which +might be done at a very small expence, by a vessel fitted out on +purpose; and if, on examination, either one or both should appear +proper for serving the end in view, it is scarcely possible to +conceive how exceedingly important so convenient a station might +prove, so far to the southward, and so near Cape Horn. The Duke and +Duchess of Bristol, under Woods Rogers, were only thirty-five days +from losing sight of Falkland's Islands to their arrival at Juan +Fernandez, in the South Sea; and, as the return back is much +facilitated by the western winds, a voyage might doubtless be made +from Falkland's Islands to Juan Fernandez and back again in little +more than two months. Even in time of peace, this station might be of +great consequence to the nation; and in time of war, would render us +masters of those seas. + +As all discoveries of this kind, though extremely honourable to +those who direct and promote them, may yet be carried on at an +inconsiderable expence, since small vessels are much the most proper +to be employed in this service, it were greatly to be wished that +the whole coasts of Patagonia, Terra del Fuego, and Staten-Land, were +carefully surveyed, and the numerous channels, roads, harbours, and +islands, in which they abound, accurately examined, described, and +represented. This might open to us vast facilities for passing into +the South Seas, such as hitherto we have no knowledge of, and would +render the whole of that southern navigation greatly more secure than +it is at present: Particularly as exact draughts of the western coast +of Patagonia, from the Straits of Magellan to the Spanish settlements, +might furnish us with better and more convenient ports for +refreshment, and better situated, both for the purposes of war and +commerce, than Juan Fernandez, as being above a fornight's sail nearer +to Falkland's Islands. + +The discovery of this coast was formerly thought of so much +importance, by reason of its neighbourhood to the _Araucos_ and other +Indians of Chili, who are generally at war, or at least on ill +terms, with the Spaniards, that, in the reign of Charles II. Sir John +Narborough was purposely fitted out to survey the Straits of Magellan, +the neighbouring coast of Patagonia, and the Spanish ports on that +frontier, with directions, if possible, to procure some intercourse +with the Chilese Indians, and to establish a commerce and lasting +correspondence with them. His majesty's views, on this occasion, were +not solely directed to the advantage he might hope to receive from an +alliance with these savages, in restraining and intimidating the king +of Spain, but he even conceived, independent of these considerations, +that an immediate traffic with these Indians might prove highly +advantageous to the nation; for it is well known that Chili, at its +first discovery by the Spaniards, abounded in vast quantities of +gold, much beyond what it has ever produced since it came into their +possession. Hence it has been generally believed, that the richest +mines are carefully concealed by the Indians, as well knowing that +their discovery would excite in the Spaniards a greater thirst for +conquest and tyranny, and would render their own independence more +precarious. But, in regard to their commerce with the English, could +that be established, these reasons would no longer influence them; +since it would be in our power to supply them with arms and ammunition +of all kinds, together with many other conveniences, which their +intercourse with the Spaniards has taught them to relish. They would +then, in all probability, open their mines, and gladly embrace a +traffic of such mutual advantage to both nations: For their gold, +instead of proving an incitement to enslave them, would then procure +them weapons with which to assert their liberty, to chastise their +tyranny, and to secure themselves for ever from falling under the +Spanish yoke; while, with our assistance, and under our protection, +they might become a considerable people, and might secure to us that +wealth, which was formerly most mischievously lavished by the house of +Austria, and lately by the house of Bourbon, in pursuit of universal +monarchy. + +It is true, that Sir John Narborough did not succeed in opening this +commerce, which promised, in appearance, so many advantages to +the nation: But his disappointment was merely accidental; and his +transactions on that coast, besides the many advantages he furnished +to geography and navigation, are rather an encouragement for future +trials of this kind, than any objection against them. His principal +misfortune was in losing a small bark that accompanied him, and having +some of his people trepanned at Baldivia. It even appeared, by the +fears and precautions of the Spaniards, that they were fully convinced +of the practicability of the scheme he was sent to execute, and were +extremely alarmed with apprehensions for its consequences. It is +said that Charles II. was so far prepossessed with the belief of the +advantages that might redound to the public from this expedition, and +was so eager to be informed of the event, on receiving intelligence of +Sir John Narborough passing through the Downs on his return, that he +had not patience to wait till his arrival at court, but went himself +in his barge to meet him at Gravesend. + +The two most famous charts hitherto published, [i.e. in 1745,] of +the southern parts of South America, are those of Dr Halley, in his +General Chart of the Magnetic Variation, and of Frezier, in his Voyage +to the South Seas. Besides these, there is a chart of the Straits of +Magellan and some parts of the adjacent coast, by Sir John Narborough, +which is doubtless infinitely more exact in that part than Frezier's, +and even in some parts superior to Halley's, particularly in regard to +the longitudes of different places in these straits. We were in some +measure capable of correcting, by our own observations, the coast from +Cape Blanco to Terra del Fuego, and thence to the Straits of Le +Maire, as we ranged along that coast, generally in sight of land. The +position of the land to the northward of the Straits of Magellan, on +the western side of Patagonia, is doubtless laid down very imperfectly +in our charts; and yet I believe it to be much nearer the truth than +any hitherto published; as it was drawn from the information of some +of the crew of the Wager, which was shipwrecked on that coast; and +as it pretty nearly agrees with what I have seen in some Spanish +manuscripts. The channel, called Whale Sound, dividing Terra del +Fuego, towards the western extremity of the Straits of Magellan, was +represented by Frezier; but Sir Francis Drake, who first discovered +Cape Horn, and the south-west parts of Terra del Fuego, observed that +the whole coast was indented by a great number of inlets, all of which +he conceived to communicate with the Straits of Magellan: And I do +not doubt, when this country shall be thoroughly examined, that this +conjecture will be verified, and that Terra del Fuego will be found to +consist of several islands. + +I must not omit warning all future navigators against relying on the +longitude of the Straits of Le Maire, or of any part of that coast, +as laid down by Frezier; the whole being from eight to ten degrees +too far to the eastward, if any faith can be given to the concurrent +evidences of a great number of journals, verified, in some +particulars, by astronomical observations. For instance, Sir John +Narborough places Cape Virgin Mary in long. 65 deg. 42' W. from the +Lizard, or about 71 deg. 20' from London. The ships of our squadron, +taking their departure from St Catharines, where the longitude was +rectified by an observation of an eclipse of the moon, found Cape +Virgin Mary to be from 70 deg. 15' to 72 deg. 30' W. from London, according to +their different reckonings; and, as there were no circumstances in +our run that could Tender it considerably erroneous, it cannot be +estimated in less than 71 deg. W. from London;[4] whereas Frezier makes +it only 66 deg. W. from Paris, which is little more than 63 deg. from London. +Again, our squadron found the difference of longitude between Cape +Virgin Mary and the Straits of Le Maire to be not more than 2 deg. 30', +while Frezier makes the difference nearly 4 deg.,[5] by which he enlarged +the coast, from the Straits of Magellan to the Straits of Le Maire, to +near double its real extent.[6] + +[Footnote 4: Only 67 deg. 40' W. from Greenwich.--E.] + +[Footnote 5: The Straits of Le Maire are in long. 65 deg. 30' W. so that +the difference is 2 deg. 10'.] + +[Footnote 6: Some farther critical observations on the geographical +positions, as laid down by Frezier, Sir John Narborough, and Dr +Halley, are here omitted, as tending to no use or information; these +things having been since ascertained with much more accuracy.--E.] + + + +SECTION X. + +_Course from Cape Noir to the Island of Juan Fernandez._ + +After the mortifying disappointment of falling in with the coast of +Terra del Fuego, at Cape Noir, when we reckoned ourselves ten degrees +to the westward of it, as formerly mentioned to have happened on the +14th of April, we stood away to the S.W. till the 22d of that month, +when we were in upwards of 60 deg. S. and, by our reckoning, 6 deg. westwards +of Cape Noir. In this run, we had a series of as favourable weather +as could well be expected in that part of the world, even in a +better season of the year; so that this interval, setting aside our +disquietudes on various accounts, was by far the most eligible of any +we had enjoyed since passing the Straits of Le Maire. This moderate +weather continued, with little variation, till the evening of the +24th, when the wind began to blow fresh, and soon increased to a +prodigious storm. About midnight, the weather being very thick, we +lost sight of the other ships of the squadron, which had hitherto +kept us company, notwithstanding the violence of the preceding +storms. Neither was this our sole misfortune, for next morning, while +endeavouring to hand the top-sails, the clew-lines and bunt-lines +broke, and the sheets being half flown, every seam in the top-sails +was soon split from top to bottom. The main top-sail shook so +violently in the wind, that it carried away the top lanthorn, and +even endangered the head of the mast. At length, however, some of the +boldest of our men ventured upon the yard, and cut the sail away close +to the reefs, with the utmost hazard of their lives. At the same time, +the fore top-sail beat about the yard with so much fury, that it was +soon blown to pieces. The main-sail also blew loose, which obliged +us to lower down the yard to secure the sail; and the fore-yard also +being lowered, we lay-to under a mizen. In this storm, besides the +loss of our top-sails, we had much of our rigging broken, and lost a +main studding-sail boom out of the chains. + +The weather became more moderate on the 25th at noon, which enabled us +to sway up our yards, and to repair our shattered rigging in the +best manner we could; but still we had no sight of the rest of our +squadron, neither did any of them rejoin us till after our arrival +at Juan Fernandez; nor, as we afterwards learnt, did any two of them +continue in company together. This total, and almost instantaneous +separation was the more wonderful, as we had hitherto kept together +for seven weeks, through all the reiterated tempests of this turbulent +climate. It must be owned, indeed, that we had hence room to expect +we might make our passage in a shorter time than if we had continued +together, because we could now make the best of our way, without being +retarded by the misfortunes of the other ships; but then we had the +melancholy reflection, that we were thereby deprived of the assistance +of others, and our safety depended solely on our single ship; so that, +if a plank started, or any other important accident occurred, we must +all irrecoverably perish. Or, should we happen to be driven on shore, +we had the uncomfortable prospect of ending our days on some desolate +coast, without any reasonable hope of ever getting off again; whereas, +with another ship in company, all these calamities are much less +formidable, as in every kind of danger there would always be some +probability that one ship at least might escape, and be capable of +preserving or relieving the crew of the other. + +During the remainder of April, we had generally hard gales, though +every day, since the 22d, edging to the northward. On the last day +of the month, however, we flattered ourselves with the expectation of +soon terminating our sufferings, as we then found ourselves in lat. +52 deg. 13' S. which, being to the northward of the Straits of Magellan, +we were now assured that we had completed our passage, and were +arrived on the confines of the South Sea: And, as this ocean is +denominated the _Pacific_, from the equability of the seasons said to +prevail there, and the facility and security with which navigation is +there carried on, we doubted not that we should be speedily cheered +with the moderate gales, the smooth water, and the temperate air, for +which that portion of the globe is so renowned. Under the influence of +these pleasing circumstances, we hoped to experience some compensation +for the complicated sufferings, which had so constantly beset us for +the last eight weeks. Yet here we were again miserably disappointed; +for, in the succeeding month of May, our sufferings rose even to a +much higher pitch than they had ever yet done, whether we consider the +violence of the storms, the shattering of our sails and rigging, or +the diminution and weakening of our crew by deaths and sickness, and +the even threatening prospect of our utter destruction. All this will +be sufficiently evident, from the following circumstantial recital of +our diversified misfortunes. + +Soon after we had passed the Straits of Le Maire, the scurvy began +to make its appearance among us, and our long continuance at sea, the +fatigue we underwent, and the various disappointments we met with, had +occasioned its spreading to such a degree, that there were but few on +board, by the latter end of April, that were not afflicted with it in +some degree; and in that month no less than forty-three died of it in +the Centurion. Although we thought the distemper had then risen to +an extraordinary height, and were willing to hope that its malignity +might abate as we advanced to the northward, we yet found, on the +contrary, that we lost near double that number in the month of May; +and, as we did not get to land till the middle of June, the mortality +went on increasing, and so prodigiously did the disease extend, that, +after the loss of above 200 men, we could not muster at the last above +six foremast-men in a watch that were capable of duty. + +This disease, so frequent in long voyages, and so particularly +destructive to us, is surely the most singular and unaccountable of +any that affects the human body. Its symptoms are innumerable and +inconstant, and its progress and effects singularly irregular, for +scarcely have any two persons complaints exactly resembling each +other; and where there have been, some conformity in the symptoms, +the order of their appearance has been totally different. Though +it frequently puts on the form of many other diseases, and is not +therefore to be described by any exclusive and infallible criterions, +yet there are some symptoms which are more general than the rest, and +of more frequent and constant occurrence, and which therefore deserve +a more particular enumeration. These common appearances are large +discoloured spots dispersed over the whole surface of the body, +swelled legs, putrid gums, and, above all, an extraordinary +lassitude of the whole body, especially after any exercise, however +inconsiderable and this lassitude at last degenerates into a proneness +to swoon, and even to die, on the least exertion of strength, or even +on the least motion. This disease is usually attended, also, by a +strange dejection of spirits, with shiverings, tremblings, and +a disposition to be seized with the most dreadful terrors on the +slightest accident. Indeed it was most remarkable, in all our +reiterated experience of this malady, that whatever discouraged our +people, or at any time damped their hopes, never failed to add new +vigour to the distemper, for such usually killed those who were in the +last stages of the disease, and confined those to their hammocks who +were before capable of some kind of duty, so that it seemed as if +alacrity of mind and sanguine hopes were no small preservatives from +its fatal malignity. + +But it is not easy to complete the long roll of the various +concomitants of this disease; for it often produced putrid fevers, +pleurisies, jaundice, and violent rheumatic pains, and sometimes +occasioned obstinate costiveness, which was generally attended with a +difficulty of breathing, and this was esteemed the most deadly of +all the scorbutic symptoms. At other times the whole body, but +more especially the legs, were subject to ulcers of the worst kind, +attended by rotten bones, and such a luxuriance of fungous flesh as +yielded to no remedy. The most extraordinary circumstance, and which +would scarcely be credible upon any single evidence, was, that the +scars of wounds that had been healed for many years, were forced open +again by this virulent distemper. There was a remarkable instance +of this in the case of one of the invalid soldiers on board the +Centurion, who had been wounded above fifty years before, at the +battle of the Boyne; and though he was cured soon after, and had +continued well for a great many years, yet, on being attacked by the +scurvy, his wounds broke out afresh in the progress of the disease, +and appeared as if they had never been healed. What is even still more +extraordinary, the callus of a broken bone, which had been completely +formed for a long time, was dissolved in the course of this disease, +and the fracture seemed as if it had never been consolidated. The +effects, indeed, of this disease, were in almost every instance +wonderful, for many of our people, though confined to their hammocks, +appeared to have no inconsiderable share of health, as they eat and +drank heartily, were even cheerful, talking with much seeming vigour +with a loud strong voice; and yet, on being in the least moved, though +only from one part of the ship to another, and that too in their +hammocks, they would instantly expire. Others, who have confided +in their seeming strength, and have resolved to get out of their +hammocks, have died before they could well reach the decks; neither +was it uncommon for such as were able to walk the deck, and even to +perform some kind of duty, to drop down dead in an instant, on any +attempt to act with their utmost effort; many of our people having +perished in this manner in the course of our voyage. + +We struggled under this terrible disease during the greatest part of +the time of our beating round Cape Horn; and though it did not then +rage with its utmost violence, yet we buried no less than forty-three +men in the month of April, as formerly observed. We were still, +however, in hopes of seeing a period to this cruel malady, and to all +the other evils which had so constantly pursued us, when we should +have secured our passage round the Cape: but we found, to our +heavy misfortune, that the (so-called) Pacific Ocean was to us less +hospitable even than the turbulent neighbourhood of Terra del Fuego +and Cape Horn. On the 8th of May, being arrived of the island of +Socoro, on the western coast of Patagonia, [in lat. 44 deg. 50' S. long. +73 deg. 45' W.] the first rendezvous appointed for the squadron, and where +we hoped to have met with some of our consorts, we cruized for them in +that station several days. We were here not only disappointed in +our expectations of meeting our friends, which induced the gloomy +apprehensions of their having all perished, but were also perpetually +alarmed with the fear of being driven on this coast, which appeared +too craggy and irregular to give us the least prospect, in such a +case, that any of us could possibly escape immediate destruction. The +land, indeed, had a most tremendous aspect. The most distant part, far +within the country, being the mountains of the Andes, or Cordelieras, +was extremely high, and covered with snow; while the coast seemed +quite rocky and barren, and the edge of the water skirted with +precipices. In some places, indeed, we observed several deep bays +running; into the land; but their entrances were generally blocked +up by numbers of small islands; and though it was not improbable but +there might be convenient shelter in some of the bays, and proper +channels leading to them, yet, as we were utterly ignorant of the +coast, had we been driven ashore by the westerly winds, which blew +almost incessantly we could not well have avoided the loss both of the +ship and of our lives. + +This continued peril which lasted above a fortnight, was greatly +aggraved by the difficulties we found in working the ship; as the +scurvy, by this time, had destroyed so great a number of our hands, +and had in some degree infected almost the whole crew. Neither did +we, as we hoped, find the winds less violent as we advanced to the +northward; for we had often prodigious squalls of wind, which split +our sails, greatly damaged our rigging, and endangered our masts. +Indeed, during much the greatest part of the time we were upon this +coast, the wind blew so hard that, in any other situation where we +had sufficient sea-room, we should certainly have lain-to; but, in the +present exigency, we were necessitated to carry both our courses and +top-sails, in order to keep clear of this lee-shore. In one of these +squalls, which was attended by several violent claps of thunder, a +sudden flash of fire darted along our decks, which dividing, exploded +with a report like that of several pistols, and wounded many of our +men and officers, marking them in different parts of their bodies. +This flame was attended by a strong, sulphurous stench, and was +doubtless of the same nature with the larger and more violent flashes +of lightning which then filled the air. + +It were endless to recite minutely the various disasters, fatigues, +and terrors, which we encountered on this coast, all of which went +on increasing till the 22d of May; at which time the fury of all the +storms we had hitherto encountered seemed to have combined for our +destruction. In this hurricane almost all our sails were split, and a +great part of our standing rigging broken. About eight in the evening, +an overgrown mountainous wave took us upon our star-board quarter, and +gave us so prodigious a shock that several of our shrouds broke with +the jerk, to the great danger of our masts giving way, and our ballast +and stores were so strangely shifted, that the ship heeled afterwards +two streaks to port. This was a most tremendous blow, and we were +thrown into the utmost consternation, having the dismal apprehension +of instantly foundering. Though the wind abated in a few hours, yet, +having no sails left in a condition to bend to the yards, the ship +laboured exceedingly in a hollow sea, rolling gunwale too, for want +of sail to keep her steady, so that we every moment expected that our +masts, now very slenderly supported, would have come by the board. We +exerted ourselves, however, the best we could, to stirrup our shrouds, +to reeve new lanyards, and to mend our sails: But, while these +necessary operations were going on, we ran great risk of being driven +ashore on the island of Chiloe, which was not far from us. In the +midst of our peril, the wind happily shifted to the southward, and we +steered off the land with the main-sail only; at which time the master +and I undertook the management of the helm, while every one else, +capable of acting, were busied in securing the masts, and bending the +sails as fast as they could be repaired. This was the last effort of +that stormy climate; for, in a day or two after, we got clear of the +land, and found the weather more moderate than we had yet experienced +since passing the Straits of Le Maire. + +Having now cruized in vain, for the other ships of the squadron, +during more than a fortnight, it was resolved to take advantage of +the present favourable weather, and the offing we had made from this +terrible coast, and to make the best of our way for the island of +Juan Fernandez. It is true that our next rendezvous was appointed off +Baldivia; yet, as we had seen none of our companions at this first +rendezvous, it was not to be supposed that any of them would be found +at the second, and indeed we had the greatest reason to suspect that +all but ourselves had perished. Besides, we were now reduced to so low +a condition, that, instead of pretending to attack the settlements +of the enemy, our utmost hopes could only suggest the possibility +of saving the ship, and some part of the remaining crew, by a speedy +arrival at Juan Fernandez; as that was the only place, in this part of +the world, where there was any probability of recovering our sick or +refitting our ship, and consequently our getting thither was the only +chance we had left to avoid perishing at sea. + +Our deplorable situation allowing no room for deliberation, we stood +for the island of Juan Fernandez; and, to save time, which was now +extremely precious, as our men were dying by four, five, and six of +a day, and likewise to avoid being again engaged on a lee shore, we +resolved to endeavour to hit that island upon a meridian. On the 28th +of May, being nearly in the parallel on which it is laid down, we had +great expectations of seeing that island; but, not finding it in the +position laid down in our charts, we began to fear that we had got too +far to the westward; and therefore, though the commodore was strongly +persuaded that he saw it in the morning of the 28th, yet his officers +believing it to have been only a cloud, to which opinion the +haziness of the weather gave some countenance, it was resolved, on +consultation, to stand to the eastward in the parallel of the island; +as, by this course, we should certainly fall in with the island, if we +were already to the westward of it, or should at least make the main +land of Chili, whence we could take a new departure, so as not to miss +it a second time in running to the westward. + +Accordingly, on the 30th May, we had sight of the continent of Chili, +distant about twelve or thirteen leagues, the land appearing very low +and uneven, and quite white; what we saw being doubtless a part of the +Cordilleras, which are always covered with snow. Though by this +view of the land we ascertained our position, yet it gave us great +uneasiness to find that we had so needlessly altered our course, when +we had been, in all probability, just upon the point of making +the island: For the mortality among us was now increased to a most +frightful degree, and those who remained were utterly dispirited by +this new disappointment, and the prospect of their longer continuance +at sea. Our water, too, began to grow scarce, and a general dejection +prevailed among us, which added much to the virulence of the disease, +and destroyed numbers of our best men. To all these calamities, there +was added this vexatious circumstance, after getting sight of the main +land, that we were so much delayed by calms and contrary winds, while +tacking westwards in quest of the island, that it took us nine days +to regain the westing, which we ran down in two when standing to the +eastward. + +In this desponding condition, and under these disheartening +circumstances, we stood to the westward, with a crazy ship, a great +scarcity of fresh water, and a crew so universally diseased, that +there were not above ten foremast men in a watch capable of doing +duty, and even some of these lame and unable to go aloft. At last, at +day-break on the 9th of June, we discovered the long-wished-for island +of Juan Fernandez. Owing to our suspecting ourselves to be to the +westward of this island on the 28th of May, and in consequence of the +delay occasioned by our standing in for the main and returning, we +lost between seventy and eighty of our men, whom we had doubtless +saved, if we had made the island on that day, which we could not +have failed to do, if we had kept on our course only for a few hours +longer. + + + +SECTION XI. + +_Arrival of the Centurion at Juan Fernandez, with a Description of +that Island._ + +As mentioned in the preceding section, we descried the island of +Juan Fernandez at day-break on the 9th June, bearing N. by E. 1/2 +E. distant eleven or twelve leagues. Though on this first view it +appeared very mountainous, ragged, and irregular, yet it was land, +and the land we sought for, and was therefore a most agreeable sight: +because here only we could hope to put a period to those terrible +calamities with which we had so long struggled, which had already +swept away above half of our crew, and which, had we continued only +a few days longer at sea, must inevitably have completed our +destruction. For we were now reduced to so helpless a condition, that, +out of two hundred and odd men who remained alive, taking all our +watches together, we could not muster hands now to work the ship on +any emergency, even including the officers, the servants, and the +boys. + +The wind being northerly when we first made the island, we kept plying +to windward all that day, and the ensuing night, in order to get in +with the land; and, while wearing ship in the middle watch, we had a +melancholy instance of the almost incredible debility of our people; +for the lieutenant could muster no more than two quarter-masters and +six foremast men capable of working; so that, without the assistance +of the officers, servants, and boys, it might have been impossible for +us to have reached the island after we got sight of it; and even +with their assistance, we were two hours in trimming the sails; to so +wretched a condition were we reduced, in a sixty-gun ship, which had +passed the Straits of Le Maire only three months before with between +four and five hundred men, most of them then in health and vigour. + +In the afternoon of the 10th, we got under the lee of the island, and +kept ranging along its coast at the distance of about two miles, in +order to look out for the proper anchorage, which was described to +be in a bay on its north side. Being now so near the shore, we could +perceive that the broken craggy precipices, which had appeared so +very unpromising from a distance, were far from barren, being in most +places covered by woods; and that there were every where the finest +vallies interspersed between them, cloathed with a most beautiful +verdure, and watered by numerous streams and cascades, every valley of +any extent being provided with its own rill; and we afterwards found +that the water was constantly clear, and not inferior to any we had +ever met with. The aspect of a country thus beautifully diversified +would at any time have been extremely delightful; but, in our +distressed situation, languishing as we were for the land and its +vegetable productions, an indication constantly attending every stage +of the sea-scurvy, it is scarcely credible with what eagerness and +transport we viewed the shore, and with how much impatience we longed +for the greens and other refreshments which were in sight. We were +particularly anxious for the water, as we had been confined to a very +sparing allowance for a considerable time, and had then only five +tons remaining on board. Those only who have endured a long series of +thirst, and who can readily recall the desire and agitation which +even the ideas alone of springs and brooks have at that time raised +in their minds, can judge of the emotion with which we viewed a large +cascade of the purest water, which poured into the sea at a short +distance from the ship, from a rock near a hundred feet high. +Even those of the sick who were not in the very last stage of the +distemper, though they had been long confined to their hammocks, +exerted their small remains of strength, and crawled up to the deck, +to feast their eyes with this reviving prospect. + +We thus coasted along the island, fully occupied in contemplating this +enchanting landscape, which still improved as we proceeded. But at +last the night closed upon us, before we could determine upon the +proper bay in which to anchor. It was resolved, therefore, to keep in +soundings all night, having then from sixty-four to seventy fathoms, +and to send our boat next morning to discover the road. The current +shifted, however, in the night, and set us so near the land that we +were obliged to let go our best bower in fifty-six fathoms, not half +a mile from shore. At four next morning, the cutter was dispatched, +under our third-lieutenant, to find out the bay of which we were in +search. The boat returned at noon, full of seals and grass; for though +the island abounded with better vegetables, the boat's crew, during +their short stay, had not met any other, and thought even this would +be acceptable as a dainty, and indeed it was all speedily and eagerly +devoured. The seals, too, were considered as fresh provision, but were +not much admired, though they afterwards came into more repute; but we +had taken a prodigious quantity of excellent fish during the absence +of the boat, which rendered the seals less valuable at this time. + +The cutter had discovered the bay in which we intended to anchor, +which was to the westward of our present station; and next morning, +the weather proving favourable, we endeavoured to weigh, in order to +proceed thither, mustering all the strength we could, obliging even +the sick, who could hardly stand on their legs, to assist; yet the +capstan was so weakly manned, that it was near four hours before we +could heave the cable right up and down: after which, with our utmost +efforts, though with many surges and some additional purchases to +increase our strength, we found it utterly impossible to start the +anchor out of the ground. At noon, however, as a fresh gale blew +towards the bay, we were induced to set the sails, which fortunately +tripped the anchor. We then steered along shore, till we came abreast +of the point forming the eastern part of the bay: But on opening the +bay, the wind, which had hitherto favoured us, chanced to shift, and +blew from the bay in squalls; yet, by means of the head-way we had +got, we luffed close in, till the anchor, which still hung at our bow, +brought us up in fifty-six fathoms. + +Soon after we had thus got to anchor in the mouth of the bay, we +discovered a sail making toward us, which we had no doubt was one +of our squadron, and which, on a nearer approach, we found to be the +Tryal sloop; whereupon, we immediately dispatched some of our hands +to her assistance, by whose means she was brought to anchor between +us and the land. We soon learnt that she had by no means been exempted +from the same calamities by which we had been so severely afflicted; +for Captain Saunders, her commander, waiting on the commodore, +informed him, that he had buried thirty-four men out of his small +complement, and those that remained alive were so universally +afflicted with the scurvy, that only himself, his lieutenant, and +three of the men were able to stand by the sails. + +It was on the 12th about noon that the Tryal came to anchor within us, +when we carried our hawsers on board her, in order to warp our ship +nearer the shore; but the wind coming off the land in violent gusts, +prevented our mooring in the intended birth. Indeed our principal +attention was now devoted to a business of rather more importance, as +we were now anxiously employed in sending on shore materials to +erect tents for the reception of the sick, who died rapidly on board. +Doubtless the distemper was considerably augmented by the stench and +filthiness in which they lay; for the number of the sick was so great, +and so few of them could be spared from the necessary duty of the +sails to look after them, that it was impossible to avoid a great +relaxation in regard to cleanliness, so that the ship was extremely +loathsome between decks. Notwithstanding our desire to free the sick +from their present hateful situation, and their own extreme eagerness +to get on shore, we had not hands enough to prepare the tents +for their reception sooner than the 16th; but on that and the two +following days we got them all on shore, to the number of an hundred +and sixty-seven persons, besides twelve or fourteen who died in the +boats on being exposed to the fresh air. The greatest part of our sick +were so infirm, that we had to carry them out of the ship in their +hammocks, and to convey them afterwards in the same manner from +the water-side to the tents, over a stony beach. This was a work of +considerable fatigue to the few who remained healthy; and therefore +our commodore, according to his accustomed humanity, not only +assisted in this himself, but obliged all his officers to give their +helping-hand. + +The extreme weakness of our sick may be collected, in some measure, +from the numbers that died after they got on shore. It has generally +been found that the land, and the refreshments it affords, very +soon produce recovery in most stages of the scurvy, and we flattered +ourselves that those who had not perished on their first exposure to +the open air, but had lived to be placed in the tents, would have +been speedily restored to health and vigour. Yet to our great +mortification, it was nearly twenty days after they landed, before +the mortality entirely ceased, and for the first ten or twelve days we +rarely buried less than six each day, and many of those who survived +recovered by very slow and insensible degrees. Those, indeed, who had +sufficient strength, at their first getting on shore, to creep out +of the tents, and to crawl about, were soon relieved, and speedily +recovered their health and strength: But, in the rest, the disease +seemed to have attained a degree of inveteracy altogether without +example. + +Before proceeding to any farther detail of our proceeding, I think it +necessary to give a distinct account of this island of Juan Fernandez, +including its situation, productions, and conveniences. We were well +enabled to be minutely instructed in these particulars, during our +three months stay at this island; and its advantages will merit a +circumstantial description, as it is the only commodious place in +these seas, where British cruizers can refresh and recover their men, +after passing round Caps Horn, and where they may remain for some +time without alarming the Spanish coast. Commodore Anson, indeed, was +particularly industrious, in directing the roads and coasts of this +island to be surveyed, and other observations of all kinds to be made; +knowing, from his own experience, of how great benefit these materials +might prove hereafter, to any British cruizers in these seas. For the +uncertainty we were in of its position, and our standing in for +the main on the 28th May, as formerly related, cost us the lives of +between seventy and eighty of our men; from which fatal loss we might +have been saved, had we possessed such an account of its situation as +we could have fully depended upon. + +The island of Juan Fernandez is in lat. 33 deg. 40'S. [long. 77 deg. 30' +W.] one hundred marine leagues or five degrees of longitude from +the continent of Chili. It is said to have received its name from a +Spaniard who formerly procured a grant of it, and resided there for +some time with the view of forming a settlement, but abandoned it +afterwards.[1] On approaching its northern side from the east, it +appears a large congeries of lofty peaked mountains, the shore in +most places being composed of high precipitous rocks, presenting three +several bays, East bay, Cumberland bay, and West bay, the second only +being of any extent, and is by far the best, in which we moored. The +island itself is of an irregular triangular figure; one side of which, +facing the N.E. contains these three bays. Its greatest extent is +between four and five leagues, and its greatest breadth something +less than two. The only safe anchorage is on the N.E. side, where, as +already mentioned, are the three bays; the middlemost of which, named +Cumberland bay, is the widest and deepest, and in all respects by much +the best; for the other two, named East and West bays, are scarcely +more than good landing places, where boats may conveniently put casks +on shore for water. Cumberland bay is well secured to the southward, +and is only exposed from the N. by W. to the E. by S. and as the +northerly winds seldom blow in that climate, and never with any +violence, the danger from that quarter is not worth attending to. This +last-mentioned bay is by far the most commodious road in the island, +and it is advisable for all ships to anchor on its western side, +within little more than two cables length of the beach, where they may +ride in forty fathoms, and be sheltered, in a great measure, from a +large heavy sea which comes rolling in, whenever the wind blows from +eastern or western quarters. It is expedient, however, to _cackle_ or +arm the cables with an iron chain, or with good rounding, for five or +six fathoms from the anchor, to secure them from being rubbed by the +foulness of the ground.[2] + +[Footnote 1: In the original, the description given of this island +refers to large engraved views, which could not be inserted in our +octavo form, so as to be of the smallest utility.--E.] + +[Footnote 2: Cumberland bay is called _La Baya_ by the Spaniards, who +seem now to have established a fort here. East bay is by them called +_Puerta de Juan Fernandez_. There is yet a fourth bay, or small +indentation of the coast, with a landing place and stream of water, +named _Puerta Ingles_, or Sugar-loaf bay, between West bay and the +north point of the island.--E.] + +I have already observed that a northerly wind, to which alone this bay +is directly exposed, very seldom blew while we were there; and, as it +was then winter, such may be supposed less frequent in other seasons. +In those few instances when the wind was in that quarter, it did not +blow with any great force, which might be owing to the high lands, +south of the bay, giving a check to its force; for we had reason to +believe that it blew with considerable force a few leagues out at +sea, since it sometimes drove a prodigious sea before it into the bay, +during which we rode forecastle in. Though the northerly winds are +never to be apprehended in this bay, yet the southerly winds, which +generally prevail here, frequently blow off the land in violent gusts +and squalls, which seldom lasted, however, longer than two or +three minutes. This seems to be owing to the high hills, in the +neighbourhood of the bay, obstructing the southern gale; as the wind, +collected by this means, at last forces its passage through the narrow +vallies; which, like so many funnels, both facilitate its escape, +and increase its violence. These frequent and sudden guests make it +difficult for a ship to work in with the wind offshore, or to keep a +clear hawse, when anchored. + +The northern part of this island is composed of high craggy hills, +many of them inaccessible, though generally covered with trees. The +soil of this part is loose and shallow, so that very large trees in +the hills frequently perish for want of root, and are then easily +overturned. This circumstance occasioned the death of one of our men, +who, being on the hills in search of goats, caught hold of a tree +upon a declivity to assist him in his ascent, and this giving way, he +rolled down the hill; and though, in his fall, he fastened on another +tree of considerable bulk, this also gave way, and he fell among the +rocks, where he was dashed to pieces. Mr Brett, also, having rested +his back against a tree, near as large about as himself, which grew on +a slope, it gave way with him, and he fell to a considerable distance, +though without receiving any injury. Our prisoners, whom, as will +appear in the sequel, we afterwards brought to this island, remarked +that the appearance of the hills in some parts resembled that of the +mountains in Chili where gold is found; so that it is not impossible +that mines might be discovered here. In some places we observed +several hills of a peculiar red earth, exceeding vermillion in colour, +which perhaps, on examination, might prove useful for many purposes. +The southern, or rather S.W. part of the island, is widely different +from the rest; being destitute of trees, dry, stony, and very flat and +low, compared, with the hills on the northern part. This part of +the island is never frequented by ships, being surrounded by a steep +shore, and having little or no fresh water; besides which, it is +exposed to the southerly winds, which generally blow here the whole +year round, and with great violence in the antarctic winter. + +The trees, of which the woods in the northern part of the island are +composed, are mostly aromatic, and of many different sorts. There are +none of them of a size to yield any considerable timber, except those +we called myrtle-trees, which are the largest on the island, and +supplied us with all the timber we used; yet even these would not +work to a greater length than forty feet. The top of the myrtle is +circular, and as uniform and regular as if clipped round by art. It +bears an excrescence like moss on its bark, having the taste and smell +of garlic, and was used instead of it by our people. We found here +the pimento, and the cabbage-tree, but in no great quantity. Besides +these, there were a great number of plants of various kinds, which +we were not botanists enough to describe or attend to. We found +here, however, almost all the vegetables that are usually esteemed +peculiarly adapted to the cure of those scorbutic disorders which are +contracted by salt diet and long voyages, as we had great quantities +of water-cresses and purslain, with excellent wild sorrel, and a vast +profusion of turnips and Sicilian radishes, which two last, having a +strong resemblance to each other, were confounded by our people under +the general name of turnips. We usually preferred the tops of the +turnips to the roots, which we generally found stringy, though some +of them were free from that exception, and remarkably good. +These vegetables, with the fish and flesh we got here, to be more +particularly described hereafter, were not only exceedingly grateful +to our palates after the long course of salt diet to which we had +been confined, but were likewise of the most salutary consequence in +recovering and envigorating our sick, and of no mean service to us who +were well, by destroying the lurking seeds of the scurvy, from which +none of us, perhaps, were totally exempted, and in refreshing and +restoring us to our wonted strength and activity. To the vegetables +already mentioned, of which we made perpetual use, I must add that we +found many acres of ground covered with oats and clover. There were +some few cabbage-trees, as before observed, but these grew generally +on precipices and in dangerous situations, and as it was necessary to +cut down a large tree to procure a single cabbage, we were rarely able +to indulge in this dainty. + +The excellence of the climate, and the looseness of the soil, renders +this island extremely proper for all kinds of cultivation: for, if +the ground be any where accidentally turned up, it becomes immediately +overgrown with turnips and Sicilian radishes. Our commodore, +therefore, having with him garden-seeds of all kinds, and stones of +different kinds of fruits, sowed here lettuces, carrots, and other +garden-plants, and set in the woods great numbers of plumb, apricot, +and peach-stones, for the better accommodation of our countrymen who +might hereafter touch at this island. These last have since thriven +most remarkably, as has been since learnt by Mr Anson. For some +Spanish gentlemen having been taken on their passage from Lima to +Spain, and brought to England, having procured leave to wait upon him, +to thank him for his generosity and humanity to his prisoners, some +of whom were their relations, and foiling into discourse about his +transactions in the South Seas, asked if he had not planted a great +number of fruit-stones on the island of Juan Fernandez, as their late +navigators had discovered there a great many peach and apricot trees, +which, being fruits not observed there before, they supposed to have +been produced from kernels set by him. + +This may suffice in general as to the soil and vegetable productions +of Juan Fernandez; but the face of the country, at least of its +northern part, is so extremely singular as to require a particular +consideration. I have already noticed the wild and inhospitable +appearance of it to us at first sight, and the gradual improvement +of its uncouth landscape as we drew nearer, till we were at last +captivated by the numerous beauties we discovered on landing. During +our residence, we found the interior to fall no ways short of the +sanguine prepossessions we at first entertained. For the woods, which +covered most of even the steepest hills, were free from all bushes and +underwood, affording an easy passage through every part of them; and +the irregularities of the hills and precipices, in the northern part +of the island, traced out, by their various combinations, a great +number of romantic vallies, most of which were pervaded by streams +of the purest water, which tumbled in beautiful cascades from rock to +rock, as the bottoms of the vallies happened to be broken into sudden +descents by the course of the neighbouring hills. Some particular +spots occurred in these vallies where the shade and fragrance of the +contiguous woods, the loftiness of the overhanging rocks, and the +transparency and frequent cascades of the streams, presented scenes of +such elegance and dignity, as would with difficulty be rivalled in +any other part of the globe. Here, perhaps, the simple productions of +unassisted nature may be said to excel all the fictitious descriptions +of the most fertile imagination. + +The piece of ground which the commodore chose in which to pitch his +tent, was a small lawn on a gentle ascent, about half a mile from +the sea. In front of the tent was a large avenue, opening through the +woods to the shore, and sloping with a gentle descent to the water, +having a prospect of the bay and the ships at anchor. This lawn was +screened behind by a wood of tall myrtle trees, sweeping round in a +crescent form, like a theatre, the slope on which the wood grew rising +more rapidly than the open lawn, yet not so much but that the hills +and precipices of the interior towered considerably above the tops of +the trees, and added greatly to the beauty and grandeur of the view. +There were also two streams of water, pure as the finest crystal, +which ran to the right and left of the tent within the distance of an +hundred yards, and which, shaded by trees skirting either side of the +lawn, completed the symmetry of the whole. + +It only now remains that we should mention the animals and provisions +which we met with at this island. Former writers have related that +this island abounded with vast numbers of goats, and their accounts +are not to be questioned, as this place was the usual resort of the +buccaneers and privateers who used formerly to frequent these seas. +There are two instances, one of a _musquito_ Indian, and the other of +Alexander Selkirk, a Scotsman, who were left here by their respective +ships, and lived alone upon the island for some years, and were +consequently no strangers to its productions. Selkirk, who was here +the last, after a stay of between four and five years, was taken off +by the Duke and Duchess privateers, of Bristol, as may be seen at +large in the journal of their voyage. His manner of life, during his +solitude, was very remarkable in most particulars; but he relates one +circumstance, which was so strongly verified by our own experience, +that it seems worthy of being mentioned. He tells us, as he often +caught more goats than he had occasion for, that he sometimes marked +their ears, and let them go. This was about thirty-two years before +our arrival, yet it happened that the first goat killed by our people +after they landed, had its ears slit; whence we concluded that it had +doubtless been formerly caught by Selkirk. This was indeed an animal +of a most venerable aspect, dignified with a most majestic beard, and +bearing many other marks of great age. During our residence, we +met with others marked in the same manner, all the males being +distinguished by exuberant beards, with every other characteristic of +extreme age. + +The great number of goats, which former writers describe as having +been found on this island, were very much diminished before our +arrival. For the Spaniards, aware of the advantages derived by the +buccaneers and pirates from the goats-flesh they here procured, +have endeavoured to extirpate the breed, on purpose to deprive their +enemies of this resource. For this purpose, they put on shore +great numbers of large dogs, which have greatly increased, and have +destroyed all the goats in the accessible pans of the country; so +that there were only, when we were there, a few among the crags and +precipices, where the dogs cannot follow them. These remaining goats +are divided into separate flocks, of twenty or thirty each, which +inhabit distinct fastnesses, and never mingle with each other, so +that we found it exceedingly difficult to kill them; yet we were so +desirous of their flesh, which we all agreed resembled venison, that +we came, I believe, to the knowledge of all their haunts and flocks; +and, by comparing their numbers, it was conceived that they scarcely +exceeded two hundred on the whole island. I once witnessed a +remarkable contest between a flock of goats and a number of dogs. +Going in our boat into the East bay, we perceived some dogs running +very eagerly upon the foot, and willing to see what game they were in +pursuit of, we rested some time on our oars to observe them, when +at last they took to a hill, on the ridge of which we saw a flock +of goats drawn up for their reception. There was a very narrow path +leading to the ridge, skirted on each side by precipices; and here +the master he-goat of the flock posted himself fronting the enemy, the +rest of the goats being all behind him, on more open ground. As the +ridge was inaccessible by any other path, except where this champion +stood, though the dogs ran up the hill with great alacrity, yet, when +they came within twenty yards, not daring to encounter him, as he +would infallibly have driven them down the precipice, they gave over +the chase, and lay down at that distance, panting at a great rate. + +These dogs, which are masters of all the accessible parts of the +island, are of various kinds, some of them very large, and have +multiplied to a prodigious degree. They sometimes came down to our +habitations under night, and stole our provisions; and once or twice +they set upon single persons, but, assistance being at hand, they were +driven away, without doing any mischief. As it is now rare for any +goats to fall in their way, we conceived that they lived principally +on young seals; and some of our people, having the curiosity to kill +dogs sometimes, and dress them, seemed to agree that they had a fishy +taste. + +Goats-flesh being scarce, as we were rarely able to kill above one in +a day, and our people growing tired of fish, which abounded at this +place, they at last condescended to eat seals, which they came by +degrees to relish, calling it _lamb_. As the seal, of which numbers +haunt this island, has been often mentioned by former writers, it +seems unnecessary to say any thing particular respecting that animal +in this place. There is, however, another amphibious animal to be met +with here, called the _sea-lion_, having some resemblance to a seal, +but much larger, which I conceive may merit a particular description. +This too we eat, under the denomination of beef. When arrived at full +size, the sea-lion is between twelve and twenty feet in length, and +from eight to fifteen feet in circumference. They are extremely fat, +so that, below the skin, which is an inch thick, there is at least +a foot deep of fat, before coming to the lean or bones, and we +experienced more than once, that the fat of some of the largest +afforded us a butt of oil. They are also very full of blood; for, if +deeply wounded in a dozen places, there will instantly gush out as +many fountains of blood, spouting to a considerable distance. To try +what quantity of blood one of them might contain, we shot one first, +and then cut its throat, measuring the blood which flowed, and found +that we got at least two hogsheads, besides a considerable quantity +remaining in the vessels of the animal. + +Their skins are covered with short hair of a light dun colour; but +their tails and fins, which serve them for feet on shore, are almost +black. These fore-feet, or fins, are divided at the ends like fingers, +the web which joins them not reaching to the extremities, and each +of these fingers is furnished with a nail. They have a distant +resemblance to an overgrown seal; though in some particulars there +are manifest differences between these two animals, besides the vast +disproportion in size. The males especially are remarkably dissimilar, +having a large snout, or trunk, hanging down five or six inches beyond +the extremity of the upper jaw, which renders the countenances of the +male and female easily distinguishable from each other. One of the +largest of these males, who was master of a large flock of females, +and drove off all the other males, got from our sailors the name of +the bashaw, from that circumstance. These animals divide their time +between the sea and the land, continuing at sea all summer, and coming +on shore at the setting in of winter, during all which season they +reside on the land. In this interval they engender and bring forth +their young, having generally two at a birth, which are suckled by the +dams, the young at first being as large as a full-grown seal. + +During the time they continue on shore, they feed on the grass and +other plants which grow near the banks of fresh-water streams; and, +when not employed in feeding, sleep in herds in the most miry places +they can find. As they seem of a very lethargic disposition, and are +not easily awakened, each herd was observed to place some of their +males at a distance, in the nature of centinels, who never failed to +alarm them when any one attempted to molest, or even to approach them. +The noise they make is very loud, and of different kinds; sometimes +grunting like hogs, and at other times snorting like horses in full +vigour. Especially the males have often furious battles, principally +about their females; and we were one day extremely surprised at seeing +two animals, which at first appeared quite different from any we +had before observed; but on a nearer approach, they proved to be two +sea-lions, which had been goring each other with their teeth, and +were all covered over with blood. The bashaw, formerly mentioned, who +generally lay surrounded by a seraglio of females, to which no other +male dared approach, had not acquired that envied pre-eminence without +many bloody contests, of which the marks remained in numerous scars in +every part of his body. + +We killed many of these animals for food, particularly for their +hearts and tongues, which we esteemed exceeding good eating, and +preferable even to those of bullocks. In general there was no +difficulty in killing them, as they are incapable either of flight or +resistance, their motion being the most unwieldy that can be imagined, +and all the time they are in motion, their blubber is agitated +in large waves under the skin. One day, a sailor being carelessly +employed in skinning a young sea-lion, the female from whom he had +taken it, came upon him unperceived, and getting his head into her +mouth, scored his skull in notches with her teeth in many places, +and wounded him so desperately that he died in a few days, though all +possible care was taken of him.[3] + +[Footnote 3: There are two species of the seal tribe which have +received the name of sea-lion; the phoca leonina, or bottle-nosed +seal, which is that of the text; and the phoca jubata, or maned seal, +which is the sea-lion of some other writers. These two species are +remarkably distinguishable from each other, especially the moles: The +bottle-nosed seal having a trunk, snout, or long projection, on the +upper jaw; while the male of the maned seal has his neck covered +with a long flowing mane. The latter is also much larger, the males +sometimes reaching twenty-five feet in length, and weighing fifteen +or sixteen hundred weight. Their colour is reddish, and their voice +resembles the bellowing of bulls. The former are chiefly found in the +Southern Pacific; while the latter frequent the northern parts of the +same ocean.--E.] + +These are the principal animals which we found upon the island of +Juan Fernandez. We saw very few birds, and these were chiefly hawks, +blackbirds, owls, and hummingbirds. We saw not the _paradela_,[4] +which burrows in the ground, and which former writers mention to be +found here; but as we often met with their holes, we supposed that the +wild dogs had destroyed them, as they have almost done the cats; for +these were very numerous when Selkirk was here, though we did not see +above two or three during our whole stay. The rats, however, still +keep their ground, and continue here in great numbers, and were very +troublesome to us, by infesting our tents in the night. + +[Footnote 4: This name is inexplicable; but, from the context, appears +to refer to some animal of the cavia genus, resembling the rabbit: +Besides, a small islet, a short way S.W. of Juan Fernandez, is named +Isla de Conejos, or Rabbit Island.--E.] + +That which furnished us with the most delicious of our repasts, while +at this island, still remains to be described. This was the fish, with +which the whole bay was most abundantly stored, and in the greatest +variety. We found here cod of prodigious size; and by the report of +some of our crew, who had been formerly employed in the Newfoundland +fishery, not less plentiful than on the banks of that island. We had +also cavallies, gropers, large breams, maids, silver-fish, congers of +a particular kind; and above all, a black fish which we esteemed most, +called by some the chimney-sweeper, in shape somewhat resembling a +carp. The beach, indeed, was every where so full of rocks and loose +stones, that there was no possibility of hauling the seyne; but with +hooks and lines we caught what numbers we pleased, so that a boat with +only two or three lines, would return loaded with fish in two or +three hours. The only interruption we ever met with arose from great +quantities of dog-fish and large sharks, which sometimes attended our +boats, and prevented our sport. + +Besides these fish, we found one other delicacy in greater perfection, +both as to size, quantity, and flavour, than is to be met with perhaps +in any other part of the world. This was sea craw-fish, usually +weighing eight or nine pounds each, of a most excellent taste, and +in such vast numbers near the edge of the water, that our boat-hooks +often struck into them in putting the boats to and from the shore. + +These are the most material articles relating to the accommodations, +soil, vegetables, animals, and other productions of the island of Juan +Fernandez, by which it will distinctly appear how admirably this place +was adapted for recovering us from the deplorable situation to which +we had been reduced by our tedious and unfortunate navigation round +Cape Horn. Having thus given the reader some idea of the situation and +circumstances of this island, in which we resided for six months, I +shall now proceed to relate all that occurred to us in that period, +resuming the narrative from the 18th of June, on which day the Tryal +sloop, having been driven out by a squall three days before, came +again to her moorings, on which day also we finished sending our sick +on shore, being about eight days after our first anchoring at this +island. + + + +SECTION XII. + +_Separate Arrivals of the Gloucester, and Anna Pink, at Juan +Fernandez, and Transactions at that Island during the Interval._ + +The arrival of the Tryal sloop at this island, so soon after we +came there ourselves in the Centurion, gave us great hopes of being +speedily joined by the rest of the squadron; and we were accordingly +for some days continually looking out, in expectation of their coming +in sight. After near a fortnight had elapsed without any of them +appearing, we began to despair of ever meeting them again, knowing, if +our ship had continued so much longer at sea, that we should every +man of us have perished, and the vessel, occupied only by dead bodies, +must have been left to the caprice of the winds and waves; and this we +had great reason to fear was the fate of our consorts, as every hour +added to the probability of these desponding suggestions. But, on the +21st of June, some of our people, from an eminence on shore, discerned +a ship to leeward, with her courses even with the horizon. They could, +at the same time, observe that she had no sails aboard, except her +courses and main-topsail. This circumstance made them conclude that it +must be one of our squadron, which had probably suffered as severely +in her sails and rigging as we had done. They were prevented, however, +from forming more definite conjectures concerning her; for, after +viewing her a short time, the weather grew thick and hazy, and she was +no longer to be seen. + +On this report, and no ship appearing for some days, we were all under +the greatest concern, suspecting that her people must be under the +utmost distress for want of water, and so weakened and diminished in +numbers by sickness, as to be unable to ply up to windward, so that we +dreaded, after having been in sight of the island, that her whole crew +might yet perish at sea. On the 21st, at noon, we again discerned a +ship at sea in the N.E. quarter, which we conceived to be the same +that had been seen before, and our conjecture proved true. About one +o'clock she had come so near that we could plainly distinguish her +to be the Gloucester; and as we had no doubt of her being in great +distress, the commodore immediately ordered out his boat to our +assistance, laden with fresh water, fish, and vegetables, which was +a most comfortable relief to them; for our apprehensions of their +calamitous situation were only too well founded, as there never +was, perhaps, a crew in greater distress. They had already thrown +two-thirds of their complement overboard; and of those who remained +alive, scarcely any were capable of doing duty, except the officers +and their servants. They had been a considerable time at the small +allowance of a pint of water to each man in twenty-four hours, and yet +had so very little left, that they must soon have died of thirst, had +it not been for the supply sent them by our commodore. + +The Gloucester plied up within three miles of the bay, but could not +reach the road, both wind and currents being contrary. She continued, +however, in the offing next day; and as she had no chance of being +able to come to anchor, the commodore repeated his assistance, sending +off the Tryal's boat, manned with the people of the Centurion, with a +farther supply of water, and other refreshments. Captain Mitchell of +the Gloucester was under the necessity of detaining both this boat and +that sent the preceding day, as he had no longer strength to navigate +his ship without the aid of both their crews. The Gloucester continued +near a fortnight in this tantalizing situation, without being able +to fetch the road, though frequently making the attempt, and even at +times bidding fair to effect the object in view. On the 9th July, +we observed her stretching away to the eastward, at a considerable +distance, which we supposed was with a design to get to the southward +of the island; but, as she did not again appear for near a week, we +were prodigiously alarmed for her safety, knowing that she must be +again in extreme distress for want of water. After great impatience +about her, we again discovered her on the 16th, endeavouring to come +round the eastern point of the island, but the wind still blowing +directly from the bay, prevented her from getting nearer than within +four miles of the land. + +Captain Mitchell now made signals of distress, and our long-boat, was +sent off with a good supply of water, and plenty of fish and other +refreshments: And, as the long-boat could not be wanted, the cockswain +had positive orders from the commodore to return immediately. But next +day proving stormy, and the boat not appearing, we much feared she was +lost, which would have been an irretrievable misfortune to us all. We +were relieved, however, from this anxiety on the third day after, by +the joyful appearance of her sails on the water, on which the cutter +was sent to her assistance, and towed her alongside in a few hours, +when we found that the long-boat had taken in six of the Gloucester's +sick men, to bring them on shore, two of whom had died in the boat. +We now learnt that the Gloucester was in a most dreadful condition, +having scarcely a man in health on board, except the few she had +received from us. Numbers of their sick were dying daily, and it +appeared, had it not been for the last supply sent by our long-boat, +that both the healthy and diseased must all have perished for want +of water. This calamitous situation was the more terrifying, as it +appeared to be without remedy; for the Gloucester had already spent a +month in fruitless endeavours to fetch the bay, and was now no farther +advanced than when she first made the island. The hopes of her +people of ever succeeding were now worn out, by the experience of +its difficulty; and, indeed, her situation became that same day more +desperate than ever, as we again lost sight of her, after receiving +our last supply of refreshments, so that we universally despaired of +her ever coming to anchor. + +Thus was this unhappy vessel bandied about, within a few leagues of +her intended harbour, while the near neighbourhood of that place, and +of these circumstances which could alone put an end to the calamities +under which her people laboured, served only to aggravate their +distress, by torturing them with a view of the relief they were unable +to reach. She was at length delivered from this dreadful situation at +a time when we least expected it: For, after having lost sight of her +for several days, we were joyfully surprised, in the morning of the +23d July, to see her open the N.W. point of the bay with a flowing +sail, when we immediately dispatched what boats we had to her +assistance, and within an hour from our first perceiving her, she +anchored safe within us in the bay. + +We were now more particularly convinced of the importance of the +assistance and refreshments we had repeatedly sent her, and how +impossible it must have been for a single man of her crew to +have survived, had we given less attention to their wants. For, +notwithstanding the water, vegetables, and fresh provisions with +which we had supplied them, and the hands we had sent to assist in +navigating the ship, by which the fatigue of her own people had been +greatly diminished, their sick relieved, and the mortality abated; +notwithstanding this provident care of our commodore, they yet buried +above three-fourths of their crew, and a very small proportion of the +survivors remained capable of assisting in the duty of the ship. On +getting to anchor, our first care was to assist them in mooring, +and the next to get their sick on shore. These were now reduced, by +numerous deaths, to less than fourscore, of which we expected the +greatest part to have died; but whether it was that those farthest +advanced in the cruel distemper had already perished, or that the +vegetables and fresh provisions we had sent had prepared those who +remained alive for a more speedy recovery, it so happened, contrary to +our fears, that their sick, in general, were relieved and restored to +health in a much shorter time than our own had been when we first came +to the island, and very few of them died on shore. + +Having thus given an account of the principal events relating to the +arrival of the Gloucester, in one continued narration, I shall only +add, that we were never joined by any other of our ships, except our +victualler, the Anna pink, which came in about the middle of August, +and whose history I shall defer for the present, as it is now high +time, to return to our own transactions, both on board and ashore, +during the anxious interval of the Gloucester making frequent and +ineffectual attempts to reach the island. + +Our next employment, after sending our sick on shore from the +Centurion, was cleansing our ship, and filling our water casks. The +former of these measures was indispensably necessary to our future +health, as the number of our sick, and the unavoidable negligence +arising from our deplorable situation at sea, had rendered the decks +most intolerably loathsome. The filling our water was also a caution +that appeared essential to our security, as we had reason to apprehend +that accidents might intervene which would oblige us to quit the +island at a very short warning, as some appearances we had discovered +on shore, at our first landing, gave us grounds to believe that there +were Spanish cruizers in these seas, which had left the island only a +short time before our arrival, and might possibly return again, either +for a supply of water, or in search of us. For we could not doubt that +the sole purpose they had at sea was to intercept us, and we knew that +this island was the likeliest place, in their opinion, to meet with +us. The circumstances which gave rise to these reflections, in part +of which we were not mistaken, as will appear more at large hereafter, +were our finding on shore several pieces of earthen jars, made use +of in these seas for holding water and other liquids, which appeared +fresh broken. We saw also many heaps of casks, near which were fish +bones and pieces of fish, besides whole fish scattered here and there, +which plainly appeared to have been only a short time out of the +water, as they were but just beginning to decay. + +These were infallible indications that there had been a ship or +ships at this place only a short time before our arrival; and, as all +Spanish merchant ships are instructed to avoid this island, on account +of its being the common rendezvous of their enemies, we concluded that +those which had touched here must have been ships of force; and, as we +knew not that Pizarro had returned to the Rio Plata, and were ignorant +what strength might have been fitted out at Calao, we were under +considerable apprehensions for our safety, being in so wretched and +enfeebled a condition, as, notwithstanding the rank of our ship, and +the sixty guns with which she was armed, there was hardly a privateer +sent to sea that was not an overmatch for us. Our fears on this head, +however, fortunately proved imaginary, and we were not exposed to the +disgrace which must unavoidably have befallen us, had we been reduced +to the necessity, by the appearance of an enemy, of fighting our +sixty-gun ship with no more than thirty hands. + +While employed in cleaning our ship, and filling our water casks, we +set up a large copper oven on shore, near the sick tents, in which +fresh bread was baked every day for the ship's company, as, being +extremely desirous of recovering our sick as soon as possible, we +believed that new bread, added to their green vegetables and fresh +fish, might prove powerfully conducive to their relief. Indeed, we +had all imaginable inducements to endeavour at augmenting our present +strength, as every little accident, which to a full crew would have +been insignificant, was extremely alarming in our present helpless +condition. Of this we had a troublesome instance, on the 30th of June, +at five in the morning, when we were alarmed by a violent gust of +wind directly off shore, which instantly parted our small bower cable, +about ten fathoms from the ring of the anchor. The ship at once swung +off to the best bower, which happily stood the violence of the jerk, +and brought us up, with two cables on end, in eighty fathoms. + +At this time we had not above a dozen seamen in the ship, and were +apprehensive, if the squall continued, that we might be driven out to +sea in this helpless condition. We sent, therefore, the boat on shore, +to bring off all who were capable of acting; and the wind soon abating +of its fury, gave us an opportunity of receiving the boat back with a +reinforcement. With this additional strength, we went immediately to +work, to have in what remained of the broken cable, which we suspected +to have received some injury from the ground before it parted, and +accordingly we found that seven fathoms and a half had been chaffed +and rendered unserviceable. In the afternoon, we bent this cable to +the spare anchor, and got it over the bows. Next morning, the 1st of +July, being favoured by the wind in gentle breezes, we warped the +ship in again, and let go the anchor in forty-one fathoms; the eastern +point of the bay now bearing from us E. 1/2 S. the western point N.W. +by W. and the bottom of the bay S.S.W. as before. We were, however, +much concerned for the loss of our anchor, and swept frequently to +endeavour its recovery; but the buoy having sunk at the instant when +the cable parted, we could never find it again. + +As the month of July advanced, and some of our sick men were tolerably +recovered, the strongest of them were set to cut down trees, and +to split them into billets, while others, too weak for this work, +undertook to carry the billets, by one at a time, to the water +side. This they performed, some by the help of crutches, and others +supported by a single stick. We next set up the forge on shore, and +employed our smith, who was just capable of working, to repair our +chain-plates, and other broken and decayed iron-work. We began also +the repair of our rigging; but as we had not enough of junk to make +spun-yarn, we deferred the general overhaul in the daily hope of the +Gloucester arriving, which was known to have a great quantity of junk +on board. That we might dispatch our refitting as fast as possible, +we set up a large tent on the beach for the sail-makers, who were +employed diligently in repairing our old sails and making new ones. +These occupations, with cleansing and watering our ship, now pretty +well completed, together with attending our sick, and the frequent +relief sent to the Gloucester, were the principal transactions of our +infirm crew, till the arrival of the Gloucester at anchor in the bay. + +Captain Mitchell immediately waited on the commodore, whom he +informed, that, in his last absence, he had been forced as far as +the small island of _Masefuero_, nearly in the same latitude with the +larger island of Juan Fernandez, and thirty leagues farther W. That he +had endeavoured to send his boat on shore there for water, of which he +observed several streams; but the wind blew so strong upon the shore, +and caused so great a surf, that it was impossible to get to land. +The attempt, however, was not entirely useless, as the boat came +back loaded with fish. This island had been represented, by former +navigators, as a mere barren rock, but Captain Mitchell assured the +commodore, that it was almost every where covered with trees and +verdure, and was nearly four miles in length. He believed also, +that some small bay might possibly be found in it which might afford +sufficient shelter to any ship desirous of procuring refreshments. + +As four ships of our squadron were still missing, this description of +Masefuero gave rise to a conjecture, that some of them might possibly +have fallen in with that island, mistaking it for the true place of +rendezvous. This suspicion was the more reasonable, that we had no +draught of either island that could be relied upon; wherefore the +commodore resolved to send the Tryal sloop thither, as soon as she +could be made ready for sea, in order to examine all its creeks and +bays, that it might be ascertained whether any of our missing ships +were there or not. For this purpose, some of our best hands were sent +on board the Tryal next morning, to overhaul and fix her rigging, +and our long-boat was employed to complete her water; what stores and +necessaries she wanted, being immediately supplied from the Centurion +and Gloucester. It was the 4th of August before the Tryal was in +readiness to sail. When, having weighed, it soon after fell calm, +and the tide set her very near the eastern shore of the bay. Captain +Saunders immediately hung out lights, and fired several guns, to +apprise us of his danger; upon which all the boats were sent to his +aid, which towed the sloop into the bay, where she anchored till next +morning, and then proceeded with a fair breeze. + +We were now busily employed in examining and repairing our rigging, +and that of the Gloucester; but, in stripping our fore-mast, we were +alarmed by discovering that it was sprung just above the partners +of the upper deck. This spring was two inches in depth and twelve in +circumference; but the carpenters, on inspection, gave it as their +opinion, that fishing it with two leaves of an anchor-stock would +render it as secure as ever. Besides this defect in our mast, we had +other difficulties in refitting, from the want of cordage and canvass; +for, although we had taken to sea much greater quantities of both than +had ever been done before, yet the continued bad weather we had met +with, after passing the straits of Le Maire, had occasioned so great +a consumption of these stores, that we were reduced to great straits; +as, after working up all our junk and old shrouds, to make twice laid +cordage, we were at last reduced to the necessity to unlay a cable, to +work up into running rigging; and, with all the canvass and remnants +of old sails, that could be mustered, we could only make up one +complete suit. + +Towards the middle of August, our men being indifferently recovered, +they were permitted to quit the sick tents, and to build separate huts +for themselves; as it was imagined, by living apart, that they might +be much cleanlier, and consequently likely to recover their strength +the sooner: But strict orders were given, at the same time, that they +were instantly to repair to the water-side, on the firing of a +gun from the ship. Their employment now on shore, was either the +procurement of refreshments, the cutting of wood, or the procurement +of oil from the blubber of sea-lions. This oil served for several +purposes; as burning in lamps, mixing with pitch to pay the sides of +our ships, or, when worked up with wood-ashes, to supply the place of +tallow, of which we had none left, to give the ship boat-hose tops. +Some of the men were also occupied in salting cod; for, having two +Newfoundland fishermen in the Centurion, the commodore set them to +work in providing a considerable quantity of salted cod for sea-store; +though very little of it was used, as it was afterwards thought to be +equally productive of scurvy with any other kind of salted provisions. + +It has been before mentioned, that we set up a copper oven on shore, +to bake bread for the sick: But it happened that the greatest part of +the flour, for the use of the squadron, was on board the Anna pink. It +should also have been mentioned, that the Tryal sloop informed us, on +her arrival, that she had fallen in with our victualler, on the 9th +of May, not far from the coast of Chili, and had kept company with her +for four days, when they were parted in a gale of wind. This gave us +some room to hope that she was safe, and might rejoin us: But, all +June and July having passed without any news of her, we gave her over +for lost; and the commodore, at the end of July, ordered all the ships +on a short allowance of bread. Neither was it in bread alone that we +feared a deficiency: For, since our arrival at Juan Fernandez, it was +discovered that our former purser had neglected to take on board large +quantities of several kinds of provisions, which the commodore had +expressly ordered him to receive; so that the supposed loss of our +victualler was, on all accounts, a most mortifying circumstance. + +About noon on Thursday the 16th of August, after we had given over all +hopes of the Anna pink, a sail was espied in the northern quarter, on +which a gun was immediately fired from the Centurion, to call off the +people from the shore, who readily obeyed the summons, by repairing +to the beach, where the boats waited to fetch them on board. Being +now prepared for the reception of the ship in view, whether friend or +enemy, we had various speculations respecting her, many supposing at +first, that it was the Tryal sloop returning from the examination of +Masefuero. As she drew nearer, this opinion was confuted, by observing +that she had three masts, when other conjectures were eagerly +canvassed; some judging the vessel in sight to be the Severn and +others the Pearl, while several affirmed that she did not belong to +our squadron. But, about three in the afternoon, all speculations were +ended by the unanimous persuasion that it was our victualler, the +Anna pink. And, though, this ship had fallen in with the island to the +northward like the Gloucester, she yet had the good fortune to come +to anchor in the bay at five in the afternoon. Her arrival gave us +all the utmost satisfaction, as the ship's companies were immediately +restored to their full allowance of bread, and we were now relieved +from the apprehensions of our provisions falling short before we could +reach some friendly port,--a calamity, in these seas, of all others +the most irretrievable. This was the last ship that joined us; and, +as the dangers she encountered, and the good fortune she afterwards +experienced, are worthy of a separate narration, I shall refer them, +together with a short account of the other missing ships, to the +ensuing section. + + + +SECTION XIII. + +_Short Account of what befell the Anna Pink before she rejoined; +with an Account of the Loss of the Wager, and the putting back of the +Severn and Pearl._ + +On the first recognition of the Anna pink, it seemed quite wonderful +to us how the crew of a vessel, which had thus come to the rendezvous +two months after us, should be capable of working their ship in +the manner they did, and with so little appearance of debility and +distress. This difficulty, however, was soon solved after she came +to anchor; for we then found that she had been in harbour since the +middle of May, near a month before our arrival at Juan Fernandez, +so that their sufferings, excepting the risk they had run of being +shipwrecked, were greatly short of what had been undergone by the rest +of the squadron. + +They fell in with the land on the 16th of May, in lat. 45 deg. 15' S. +being then about four leagues from shore. On the first sight of +it, they wore ship and stood to the southward; but their fore-sail +splitting, and the wind being strong at W.S.W. they drove towards the +shore. The captain, either unable to clear the land, or, as others +say, resolved to keep the sea no longer, steered now for the coast, +in order to look out for some shelter among the many islands which +appeared in sight, and had the good fortune to bring the ship to +anchor to the eastward of the island of _Inchin_[1]. But, as they did +not run sufficiently near the east shore of that island, and had not +hands enough to veer away the cable briskly, they were soon driven to +the eastwards, deepening their water from twenty-five to thirty-five +fathoms. Still continuing to drive, they next day, being the 17th May, +let go their sheet anchor, which brought them up for a short time: but +on the 18th they drove again, till they came into sixty-five fathoms; +and, being now within a mile of the land, they expected every moment +to be forced on shore in a place where the coast was so very high and +steep, that there was not the smallest prospect of saving the ship and +cargo. As their boats were very leaky, and there was no appearance of +a landing place, the whole crew, consisting of sixteen men and boys, +gave themselves up for lost, believing, if even any of them happened +to get on shore by some extraordinary chance, that they would be +almost certainly massacred by the savages; as these people, knowing +no other Europeans except Spaniards, might be expected to treat all +strangers with the same cruelty which they have so often, and so +signally, exercised against their Spanish neighbours. + +[Footnote 1: The island of Inchin and the bay in which the Anna pink +took shelter is in lat. 46 deg. 30' S. long. 74 deg. 30' in what is called the +Peninsula de tres Montes, to the N. of the Golfo de Penas.--E.] + +Under these terrifying circumstances, the Anna continued to drive +towards the rocks which formed the shore; and at last, when expecting +every instant to strike, they perceived a small opening in the land, +which raised their hopes of safety. Wherefore, immediately cutting +away their two anchors, they steered for this opening, which they +found to be a narrow opening between an island and the main, which led +them into a most excellent harbour; which, for its security against +all winds and swells, and the consequent smoothness of its water, may +perhaps vie with any in the known world: And this place being +scarcely two miles from the spot where they deemed their destruction +inevitable, the horrors of shipwreck and immediate death, with which +they had been so long and strongly possessed, vanished almost in +an instant, giving place to the most joyous ideas of security, +refreshment, and repose. + +In this harbour, discovered almost by miracle, the Anna came to anchor +in twenty-five fathoms, with only a hawser and small anchor of about +three hundred weight. Here she continued for near two months, and her +people, who were many of them ill of the scurvy, were soon restored +to perfect health by the fresh provisions, which they procured in +abundance, and the excellent water which they found in plenty on the +adjacent shore. As this place may prove of the greatest importance to +future navigators forced upon this coast by the western winds, which +are almost perpetual in that part of the world, it may be proper to +give the best account that could be collected of this port, as to +its situation, conveniences, and productions, before continuing the +adventures of the Anna pink. To facilitate, also, the knowledge of +this place, to such as may be desirous hereafter of using it, there +is annexed a plan both of the harbour and the large bay before it, +through which the Anna drifted. This plan, perhaps, may not be in +all respects as accurate as could be wished, being composed from the +memorandums and rude sketches of the master and surgeon, who were not +the most able draughtsmen; but, as the principal parts were laid down +by their estimates of their distances from each other, in which kind +of computation seamen are commonly very dextrous, the errors are +probably not very considerable. + +The latitude, which certainly is a very material point, was not very +accurately ascertained, as the Anna had no observation either on the +day she got there, or within a day of leaving the bay; but is supposed +to be not very distant from 45 deg. 30' S.[2] But the large extent of +the bay, at the bottom of which the harbour is situated, renders this +uncertainty of the less importance. The island lying before this bay, +called _Inchin_ by the Indians, is supposed to be one of the islands +named _Chonos_ by the Spanish accounts, and said to spread along all +this coast,[3] being inhabited by a barbarous people, famous for their +hatred to the Spaniards, and their cruelty to such of that nation as +have fallen into their hands. It is even possible that the land in +which this harbour is situated may be one of these islands, while the +continent may be considerably to the eastward. This harbour, besides +its depth of water and complete shelter, has two coves, where ships +may very conveniently be hove down, as the water is constantly smooth. +There are also several fine runs of excellent fresh water, which fall +into the harbour, some so conveniently situated that the casks may +be filled in the long-boat by means of a hose. The most remarkable of +these is a stream in the N.E. part of the harbour, being a fresh-water +river, where the crew of the Anna caught a few mullets of excellent +flavour, and they were persuaded that it would be found to have plenty +of fish in the proper season, it being winter when they were there. + +[Footnote 2: This has already, on the authority of Arrowsmith, been +stated at 46 deg. 30' S.] + +[Footnote 3: The gulf and archipelago of Chonos, or Guaytecas, one of +the islands of which is Socora, or Guayteca, is considerably to the +N. of Inchin, between the peninsula de tres Montes and the island of +Chiloe, the centre of that archipelago being in lat. 45 deg. S.--E.] + +The principal refreshments of green vegetables met with at this port +were wild cellery, nettle-tops, and the like, which, after so long +a continuance at sea, were highly acceptable. We got abundance +of shell-fish, as cockles and muscles of great size and delicious +flavour, with plenty of geese, shags, and penguins. Though in the +depth of winter the climate was by no means extremely rigorous, +neither were the trees or the face of the country destitute of +verdure; whence it may be concluded, that many other kinds of fresh +provisions would doubtless be found there in summer. Notwithstanding +the relations of the Spaniards respecting the violence and barbarity +of the inhabitants, it does not appear that their numbers are +sufficient to excite any apprehensions in the crew of a ship of any +size, or that their dispositions are by any means so mischievous or +merciless as has been represented. With all these advantages, this +place is so far from the frontiers of the Spanish settlements, and +so little known to the Spaniards themselves, that, with proper +precautions, there is reason to believe a ship might remain here +a long time undiscovered. It is also capable of being made a very +defensible port; as, by possessing the island that closes tip the +port or inner harbour, which island is only accessible in a very few +places, a small force might easily secure this port against all the +force which the Spaniards could muster in that part of the world. For +this island is so steep towards the harbour, having six fathoms close +to the shore, that the Anna anchored within forty yards of its coast; +whence it is obvious how difficult it would prove, either to board +or cut out any vessel protected by a force posted on shore within +pistol-shot, and where those thus posted could not be themselves +attacked. All these circumstances seem to render this port worthy of +a more accurate examination; and it is to be hoped that this rude +attempt to suggest, may hereafter recommend it to the consideration +of the public, and the attention of those who are more immediately +entrusted with the conduct of our naval affairs. + +After this account of the place where the Anna lay for two months, it +may be expected that I should relate the discoveries made by her crew +upon the adjacent coast, and the principal incidents that occurred +during their stay here. But, as they were only a few in number, they +durst not venture to detach any of their people on distant searches, +being under continual apprehensions of being attacked either by the +Spaniards or Indians, so that their excursions were generally confined +to the tract of land surrounding the port, where they were never out +of view of the ship: Even if they had known from the first how little +grounds there were for these fears, yet the neighbouring country +was so overgrown with wood, and so traversed by mountains, that +it appeared impracticable to penetrate to any distance, so that no +account of the interior could be expected. They were, however, in a +condition to disprove the relations given by Spanish writers, who have +represented this coast as inhabited by a fierce and powerful people, +as no such inhabitants were to be found, at least in the winter +season; for, during the whole time of their continuance here, they +never saw any more than one small Indian family, which came into the +harbour in a periagua, or canoe, about a month after the arrival of +the Anna, and consisted only of one Indian man, near forty years of +age, his wife, and two children, one about three years of age, and +the other still on the breast. They seemed to have with them all their +property, consisting of a dog and cat, a fishing net, a hatchet, a +knife, a cradle, some bark of trees, intended for covering a hut, a +reel with some worsted, a flint and steel, and a few roots of a yellow +hue, and very disagreeable taste, which served them for bread. + +As soon as these were perceived, the master of the Anna sent his yawl +and brought them on board; and, lest they might discover him to the +Spaniards if permitted to go away, he took proper precautions, as he +conceived, for securing them, but without violence or ill usage, as +they were permitted to go about the ship where they pleased in the day +time, but were locked up in the forecastle at night. As they were fed +in the same manner with the crew, and were often indulged with brandy, +which they seemed greatly to relish, it did not appear at first that +they were much dissatisfied with their situation. The master took +the Indian on shore when he went to shoot, and he seemed always much +delighted on seeing the game killed. The crew also treated them with +great humanity; but it was soon apparent, though the woman continued +easy and cheerful, that the man grew pensive and discontented at his +confinement. He seemed to have good natural parts, and though utterly +unable to converse with our people otherwise than by signs, was yet +very curious and inquisitive, and showed great dexterity in his manner +of making himself understood. Seeing so few people on board so large +a ship, he seemed to express his opinion that they had once been more +numerous, and, by way of representing what he imagined had become of +their companions, he laid himself on the deck, closing his eyes, and +stretching himself out motionless, as if to imitate the appearance of +a dead body. + +The strongest proof of his sagacity was the manner of his getting +away. After having been on board the Anna for eight days, the scuttle +of the forecastle, where he and his family were locked up every night, +happened to be left unnailed, and on the following night, which +was extremely dark and stormy, he contrived to convey his wife and +children through the scuttle, and then over the ship's side into the +yawl, and immediately rowed on shore, using the precaution to cut +away the long-boat and his own periagua, which were towing astern, to +prevent being pursued. He conducted all this with so much silence +and secrecy, that, though there was a watch on the quarter-deck with +loaded arms, he was not discovered by them till the noise of his oars +in the water gave notice of his escape, after he had put off from the +ship, when it was too late either to prevent or pursue him. Besides, +as their boats were all adrift, it was some time before they could +contrive the means of getting on shore to search for their boats. By +this effort, besides regaining his liberty, the Indian was in some +measure revenged on those who had confined him, both by the perplexity +they were in for the loss of their boats, and by the terror occasioned +by his departure; for, on the first alarm of the watch, who cried, +"The Indians," the whole crew were in the utmost confusion, believing +that the ship had been boarded by a whole fleet of armed canoes. + +Had the resolution and sagacity with which this Indian behaved on +this occasion, been exerted on a more extensive object, it might have +immortalized the exploit, and given him a rank among the illustrious +names of antiquity. The people of the Anna, indeed, allowed that it +was a most gallant enterprise, and were grieved at having thus been +under the necessity, from attention to their own safety, to abridge +the liberty of one who had now given so distinguished a proof of +courage and prudence. As he was supposed still to continue in the +woods near the port, where he might suffer for want of provisions, +they easily prevailed on the master to leave a quantity of such food +as they thought would be most agreeable to him in a place where he +was likely to find it, and there was reason to believe this was not +altogether without its use, for, on visiting the place afterwards, the +provisions were gone, and in a manner that made them conclude they had +fallen into his hands. + +Although many of the crew of the Anna believed that this Indian still +continued in the neighbourhood, there were some who strongly suspected +he might have gone off to the island of Chiloe, where they feared +he would alarm the Spaniards, and would soon return with a force +sufficient to surprise or overpower the Anna. The master was therefore +prevailed upon to discontinue firing the evening gun, and there is a +particular reason for attending to this circumstance, to be explained +hereafter; for he had hitherto, from an ostentatious imitation of +the men-of-war, fired a gun every evening at setting the night watch. +This, as he pretended, was to awe the enemy, if there were any within +hearing, and to convince them that his ship was always on her +guard. The crew being now well refreshed, and their wood and water +sufficiently replenished, he put to sea a few days after the escape +of the Indian, and had a fortunate passage to the rendezvous at +Juan Fernandez, where he arrived on the 16th of August, as already +mentioned. + +The remaining ships of the squadron, none of which rejoined the +commodore, were the Severn, Pearl, and Wager, of the fate of which +it may be proper to make mention. The Severn and Pearl parted company +from the commodore off Cape Voir; and, as we afterwards learnt, put +back to Brazil. The Wager had on board a few field-pieces, and some +coehorn-mortars, mounted for land service, with several kinds of +artillery stores and pioneers tools, intended for operations on shore. +And, as an enterprise had been planned against Baldivia, for the first +operation of the squadron, Captain Cheap was extremely solicitous +that these articles might be forthcoming, and determined to use his +endeavours for that purpose, that no delay or disappointment might +be imputed to him, not knowing the state the squadron was reduced +to. While making the best of his way, with these views, to the first +appointed rendezvous, off Socoro, whence he proposed to proceed +for Baldivia, the Wager made the land on the 14th of May, about the +latitude of 47 deg. S. and while Captain Cheap was exerting himself in +order to get clear of the land, he had the misfortune to fall down the +after-ladder, by which he dislocated his shoulder, and was rendered +incapable of acting. This accident, together with the crazy condition +of the ship, which was little better than a wreck, prevented her from +getting off to sea, and entangled her more and more with the land; +insomuch, that at day-break next morning, the 15th May, she struck on +a sunken rock, and soon afterwards bilged, and grounded between two +small islands, about musket-shot from the shore. + +In this situation the ship continued entire a long time, so that all +the crew might have got safe on shore. But a general confusion ensued; +many of them, instead of consulting their safety, or reflecting +on their calamitous condition, fell to pillaging the ship, arming +themselves with the first weapons that came to hand, and threatening +to murder all who should oppose their proceedings. This frenzy was +greatly heightened by the liquors they found on board, with which they +made themselves so excessively intoxicated, that some fell down into +the hold, where they were drowned, as the water flowed into the wreck. +Having done his utmost, ineffectually, to get the whole crew on shore, +the captain was at last obliged to leave the mutineers behind, and to +follow his officers on shore, with such few men as he could prevail +upon to accompany him; but did not fail to send back the boats, with a +message to those who remained, entreating them to have some regard to +their own preservation. All his efforts, however, were for some time +in vain; but next day, the weather proving stormy, and there being +great danger of the ship going to pieces, the refractory part of the +crew began to be afraid of perishing, and were desirous of getting to +land; and, in their madness, as the boat did not come to fetch them +off so soon as they wished, they pointed a four-pounder from the +quarter-deck, against the hut in which the captain resided on shore, +and fired two shots, which passed just over its roof. + +From this specimen of the behaviour of part of the crew, some idea +may be formed of the disorder and anarchy which prevailed when they at +length got all on shore. For the men conceived that the authority of +their officers was at an end, in consequence of the loss of the ship; +and, as they were now upon an inhospitable coast, where scarcely any +other provisions could be got beyond what could be saved from the +wreck, this was another insurmountable source of discord: for the +working upon the wreck, and securing the provisions on shore, so that +they might be preserved as much as possible for future exigencies, +and that they might be sparingly and equally distributed for present +subsistence, were matters, however important, that could not be +brought about unless by means of discipline and subordination. At the +same time, the mutinous disposition of the people, stimulated by the +immediate impulses of hunger, rendered every regulation attempted for +these indispensable purposes, quite unavailing; so that there were +continual frauds, concealments, and thefts, which animated every one +against his neighbour, and produced infinite contentions and perpetual +quarrels. Hence a perverse and malevolent disposition was constantly +kept up among them, which rendered them utterly ungovernable. + +Besides these heart-burnings, occasioned by petulance and hunger, +there was another important point which set the greatest part of the +people at variance with the captain. This was their difference in +opinion from him, on the measures proper to be pursued on the present +emergency; for the captain was determined, if possible, to fit out +the boats in the best manner he could, and to proceed with them to +the northward, as, having above two hundred men in health, and having +saved some fire-arms and ammunition from the wreck, he had no doubt +of being able to master any Spanish, vessel they might fall in with in +these seas, and he thought that he could not fail of meeting with one +in the neighbourhood of Chiloe or Baldivia, in which, when taken, +he proposed to proceed to the rendezvous at Juan Fernandez. He also +insisted, should they even meet with no prize by the way, that the +boats alone could easily carry them to Juan Fernandez. But this +scheme, however prudent and practicable, was by no means relished by +the generality of the people; for, quite jaded and disgusted with the +fatigues, dangers, and distresses they had already encountered, they +could not be persuaded to prosecute an enterprize which had hitherto +proved so disastrous. The common resolution, therefore, was to +lengthen the long-boat, and, with her and the other boats, to steer to +the southwards, to pass through the Straits of Magellan, and to range +along the eastern coast of South America, till they came to Brazil, +where they had no doubt of being well received, and procuring a +passage to Britain. + +This project was evidently a vast deal more tedious, and infinitely +more hazardous, than that proposed by the captain; but, as it had the +air of returning home, and flattered them with the hope of getting +once more to their native country, that circumstance rendered them +blind to all its inconveniences, and made them adhere to it with +insurmountable obstinacy. The captain was therefore obliged to give +way to the torrent, though he never changed his opinion, and had, in +appearance, to acquiesce in this resolution, though he gave it all +the obstruction he could, particularly in regard to lengthening the +long-boat, which he contrived should be of such a size, as, though +it might carry them to Juan Fernandez, he yet hoped might appear +incapable of so long a navigation as that to the coast of Brazil. +But the captain, by his steady opposition at first to this favourite +project, had much embittered the people against him, to which, also, +the following unhappy accident greatly contributed. + +A midshipman, named Cozens, had appeared the foremost in all the +refractory proceedings of the crew, had involved himself in brawls +with most of the officers who had adhered to the authority of the +captain, and had even treated the captain himself with much insolence +and abuse. As his turbulence and brutality grew every day more and +more intolerable, it was not in the least doubted that some violent +measures were in agitation, in which Cozens was engaged as the +ringleader; for which reason the captain, and those about him, +constantly kept themselves on their guard. One day the purser having +stopped, by order of the captain, the allowance of a fellow who +would not work, Cozens, though the man had not complained to him, +intermeddled in the affair with great bitterness, and grossly insulted +the purser, who was then delivering out the provisions close by the +captain's tent, and was himself sufficiently violent. Enraged by his +scurrility, and perhaps piqued by former quarrels, the purser cried +out, _A mutiny_; adding, _the dog has pistols_, and then immediately +fired himself a pistol at Cozens, but missed him. On hearing this +outcry, and the report of the pistol, the captain rushed out from +his tent, and not doubting that it had been fired by Cozens as the +commencement of a mutiny, immediately shot him in the head without +farther enquiry. Though he did not die on the spot, the wound proved +mortal in about a fortnight. + +Though this accident was sufficiently displeasing to the people, it +yet awed them for a considerable time to their duty, and rendered them +more submissive to the authority of the captain. But at last, towards +the middle of October, when, the long-boat was finished, and they were +preparing to put to sea, the additional provocation given them, by +covertly traversing their project of proceeding through the Straits of +Magellan, and their fears that he might at length engage a sufficient +party to overturn this favourite measure, made them resolve to take +advantage of the death of Cozens as a reason for depriving him of his +command, under pretence of carrying him a prisoner to England to be +tried for murder, and he was accordingly confined under a guard. Yet +they never meant to carry him with them, as they too well knew what +they might expect on their return to England, if their commander +should be present to confront them; and therefore, when just ready to +depart, they set him at liberty, leaving him, and the few who chose to +take their fortunes along with him, no other embarkation but the yawl, +to which the barge was afterwards added, by the people on board her +being prevailed upon to turn back. + +When the ship was wrecked, there were about one hundred and thirty +persons alive on board; above thirty of whom died on the place where +they landed, and nearly eight went off in the long-boat and cutter +to the southward; after whose departure, there remained no more than +nineteen persons along with the captain, which were as many, +however, as the barge and yawl could well carry, these being the only +embarkations left them. It was on the 13th of October, five months +after the shipwreck, that the long-boat, converted into a schooner, +weighed and sailed to the southwards, giving three cheers at their +departure to the captain and Lieutenant Hamilton of the land-forces, +and the surgeon, who were then standing on the beach. On the 29th of +January, 1742, they arrived at Rio Grande, on the coast of Brazil; +but having, by various accidents, left about twenty of their people on +shore at the different places where they touched, and a still greater +number having perished of famine in the course of their navigation, +there were not more than thirty of them remaining, when they arrived +at that port. This undertaking was certainly most extraordinary in +itself; for, not to mention the great length of the voyage, the vessel +was scarcely able to contain the number that first put to sea in her; +and their stock of provisions, being only what they saved from the +ship, diminished by five months expenditure on shore, was extremely +slender. They had also this additional misfortune, that the cutter, +the only boat they had along with them, broke loose from their stern, +and was staved to pieces, so that, when their provisions and water +failed, they had frequently no means of getting on shore in search of +a supply. + +The captain and those who remained with him, now proposed to proceed +to the northward in the barge and yawl; but the weather was so bad, +and the difficulty of subsisting so great, that it was two months +after the departure of the long boat, before they were able to put to +sea. It seems that the place where the Wager was lost, was not a +part of the continent, but an island at some distance from the main, +affording no other sort of provisions besides shell-fish, and a few +herbs; and, as the greatest part of what they had saved out of the +wreck had been carried off in the long-boat, the captain and his +people were often in extreme want of food, especially as they chose +to preserve what little remained to them of the ship's provisions, to +serve them as sea-store, when they should proceed to the northward. +During their residence at this place, which was called Wager Island +by the seamen, they were now and then visited by a straggling canoe or +two of Indians, who came and bartered their fish and other provisions +with our people. This was some little relief to their necessities, +and might perhaps have been greater at another season; for there were +several Indian huts on the shore, whence it was supposed that, in some +years, many of these savages might resort thither in the height of +summer, to catch fish. Indeed, from what has been related in the +account of the Anna pink, it would seem to be the general practice of +these Indians, to frequent this coast in the summer season, for the +purpose of fishing, and to retire more to the northwards in winter, +into a better climate. + +It is worthy of remark, how much it is to be lamented that the people +of the Wager had no knowledge of the Anna pink being so near them on +the coast;[4] for, as she was not above thirty leagues from them at +the most, and came into that neighbourhood about the same time that +the Wager was lost, and was a fine roomy ship, she could easily have +taken them all on board, and have carried them to Juan Fernandez. +Indeed, I suspect that she was still nearer them than is here +estimated; for, at different times, several of the people belonging to +the Wager heard the report of a cannon, which could be no other +than the evening gun fired by the Anna, as formerly mentioned, more +especially as the gun heard at Wager Island was at that time of the +day. + +[Footnote 4: Inchin island, where the Anna pink lay, has been formerly +stated to be in lat. 46 deg. 30' S. the supposed latitude in which the +Wager was lost, stated in the text at 47 deg. S. is only _ten_ marine +leagues to the southward, instead of _thirty_, and must therefore +have been on some one of the islands toward the southern coast of the +peninsula de Tres Montes, on the north of the Golfo de Penas.--E.] + +Captain Cheap and his people embarked in the barge and yawl, on the +14th of December, in order to proceed to the northward, taking on +board along with them all the provisions they could gather from the +wreck of the ship; but they had scarcely been an hour at sea, when the +wind began to blow hard, and the sea to run so high, that they were +obliged to throw the greatest part of their provisions overboard, to +avoid immediate destruction. This was a terrible misfortune, in a part +of the world where food was so difficult to be got; yet they persisted +in their design, going on shore as often as they could, in search +of subsistence. About a fortnight after their departure from Wager +island, another dreadful accident befel them, as the yawl sunk at +an anchor, and one of her hands was drowned; and, as the barge was +incapable of carrying the whole company, they were reduced to the hard +necessity of leaving four marines behind them, on that desolate +coast. They still, however, kept their course to the northward; though +greatly delayed by cross winds, and by the frequent interruptions +occasioned by the necessity of searching for food on shore, and +constantly struggling with a series of the most sinister events. At +length, about the end of January, 1742, having made three unsuccessful +attempts to double a head-land, which they supposed to be that called +Cape _Tres Montes_ by the Spaniards, and finding the difficulty +insurmountable, they unanimously resolved to return to Wager Island, +which they effected about the middle of February, quite disheartened +and desponding, through their reiterated disappointments, and almost +perishing with hunger and fatigue. + +On their return, they had the good fortune to fall in with several +pieces of beef, swimming in the sea, which had been washed out of +the wreck, which afforded them a most seasonable relief, after the +hardships they had endured. To complete their good fortune, there came +shortly afterwards to the place two canoes with Indians, among whom +there happened to be a native of Chiloe, who spoke a little Spanish. +The surgeon who accompanied Captain Cheap understood that language, +and made a bargain with the Chiloe Indian, that, if he would carry the +captain and his people in the barge to Chiloe, he should have her and +all her furniture for his reward. Accordingly, on the 6th of March, +the eleven persons, to which the company was now reduced, embarked +again in the barge on this new expedition. After having proceeded +a few days, the captain and four of his principal officers being on +shore, the six, who remained in the barge along with an Indian, shoved +her off and put to sea, and never returned again. + +Captain Cheap, together with Mr Hamilton, lieutenant of marines, the +honourable Mr Byron and Mr Campbell, midshipmen, and Mr Elliot, the +surgeon, were thus left on shore in the most deplorable situation +imaginable. It might be thought that their distresses, long before +this time, were hardly capable of being increased: Yet they found +their present situation much more dismaying than any thing they had +hitherto experienced; being left on a desert coast, far from the +haunts of men, without provisions, or the means of procuring any, and +with no visible prospect of relief; for their arms and ammunition, and +every convenience that had hitherto remained to them, except the few +tattered garments they had on, were all carried away in the barge. +While revolving the various circumstances of this new and unlooked-for +calamity, and sadly persuaded that they had no possible relief to hope +for, they perceived a canoe at a distance, which proved to be that +belonging to the Indian of Chiloe, who had undertaken to convey them +to that island. He it seems had left Captain Cheap and his people, +only a little before, to go a fishing in his canoe, accompanied by his +family, leaving the barge in the mean time under the care of the other +Indian, whom the sailors had carried with them to sea. When he came +on shore, and found the barge and his companion gone, he was much +concerned, and was with difficulty persuaded that his companion had +not been murdered; yet, being at last satisfied with the account that +was given him by Mr Elliot, he still undertook to carry them to the +Spanish settlements, and, being well skilled in fishing and fowling, +he undertook also to provide them in provisions by the way. + +About the middle of March, Captain Cheap and his four remaining +companions set out for Chiloe; their Indian conductor having provided +several canoes, and gathered many of his countrymen together for that +purpose. Mr Elliot, the surgeon, soon afterwards died, so that there +now only remained four of the whole company. At last, after a very +complicated passage, partly by sea and partly by land, Captain Cheap, +Mr Byron, and Mr Campbell, arrived at the island of Chiloe, where they +were received by the Spaniards with great humanity; but, on account of +some quarrel among the Indians, Mr Hamilton did not get there till two +months later. It was thus above a twelvemonth, from the loss of the +Wager, before this fatiguing peregrination terminated. The four who +now remained were brought so extremely low, by their fatigues and +privations, that in all probability none of them would have survived, +had their distresses continued only a few days longer. The captain was +with difficulty recovered; and the rest were so reduced by labour, the +severity of the weather, scantiness of food, and want of all kinds of +necessaries, that it was wonderful how they had supported themselves +so long. + +After some stay at Chiloe, the captain and the other three who were +with him, were sent to Valparaiso, and thence to St Jago, the capital +of Chili, where they continued above a year, and where they were +joined by Mr Hamilton. News arriving that a cartel had been settled +between Great Britain and Spain, Captain Cheap, Mr Byron, and Mr +Hamilton, were permitted to return to Europe in a French ship. Mr +Campbell, the other midshipman, having changed his religion while at +St Jago, chose to go from thence to Buenos Ayres along with Pizarro +and his officers, overland, and went with them afterwards to Spain in +the Asia: But failing in his endeavours to procure a commission from +the court of Spain, he returned to England, and attempted in vain to +get reinstated in the British navy. He has since published a narration +of his adventures in which he complains of the injustice that has +been done him and strongly disavows having ever been in the Spanish +service: but, as the change of his religion and his offering himself +to the court of Spain, though he was not accepted, are matters which +he must be conscious can be incontestably proved, he has been entirely +silent on these two heads.[5] + +[Footnote 5: The circumstances connected with the loss of the Wager, +and of the separation of the Severn and the Pearl, will be given more +at large, by way of supplement to the circumnavigation. The incidents +which occur to bold and unfortunate navigators are certainly curious +and interesting; but the author of Anson's Voyage seems to have +forgotten, that the circumstances respecting the countries they +visited, especially such of these which are so little known, are of +infinitely greater utility.--E.] + + + +SECTION XIV. + +_Conclusion of Proceedings at Juan Fernandez, from the Arrival of the +Anna Pink, to our final Departure from thence._ + +About a week after the arrival of the Anna pink, the Tryal sloop, +which had been sent to examine the island of Masefuero, returned to +an anchor at Juan Fernandez, having gone entirely round that island, +without seeing any one of our squadron. As, on this occasion, the +island of Masefuero was more particularly examined, I have no doubt, +than it had ever been before, or perhaps ever may be again, and as the +knowledge of it may be of great consequence hereafter, under peculiar +circumstances, I think it incumbent to insert the accounts given of it +by the officers of the Tryal. + +The Spaniards have generally mentioned two islands, under the same of +Juan Fernandez, naming them the greater and the less;[1] the greater +being that island, where we anchored, and the less that we are +now about to describe; which, because it is more distant from the +continent, they call Masefuero. The Tryal found that it bore from the +greater Juan Fernandez, W. by S. about twenty-two leagues distant. +It is much larger and better than has been usually represented, being +reported by former writers as a small barren rock, destitute of wood +and water, and altogether inaccessible. Whereas our people found that +it was covered with trees, and that there were several fine falls +of water pouring down its sides into the sea. They found, also, that +there is a place on its north side, where a ship might come to an +anchor, though indeed the anchorage be inconvenient; for the bank is +steep, and extends only a little way, and has very deep water, so +that she must anchor very near the shore, and be there exposed to all +winds, except those from the southward. Besides the inconvenience +of the anchorage, there is also a reef of rocks, about two miles in +length, running off the eastern point of the island, though these are +little to be feared, because always to be seen, by the sea breaking +over them. This island has at present one advantage beyond Juan +Fernandez, as it abounds in goats; and as these are not accustomed to +be disturbed, they were no way shy till they had been frequently fired +at. These animals reside here in great tranquillity, as the Spaniards, +not thinking this island sufficiently considerable to be frequented by +their enemies, have not been solicitous to destroy the provisions +it contains, so that no dogs have hitherto been put on shore there. +Besides goats, the people of the Tryal found there vast numbers of +seals and sea lions; and upon the whole, though they did not consider +it as the most eligible place for ships to refresh at, yet, in case +of necessity, it might afford some sort of shelter, and prove of +considerable use, especially to a single ship, apprehensive of meeting +an enemy at Juan Fernandez. + +[Footnote 1: They also distinguish the greater by the name of Isla de +Tierra, as being nearer the main land of Chili. There is yet a third +and smallest island, a little way from the S.W. extremity of the +largest, called J. de Cabras or Conejos, Goat or Rabbit island.--E.] + +The latter end of the month of December was spent in unloading the +provisions from the Anna pink; when we had the mortification to find, +that great quantities of our provisions, as bread, rice, groats, &c. +were decayed and unfit for use. This had been occasioned by the Anna +taking in water, by her working and straining in bad weather; owing +to which several of her casks had rotted, and many of her bags were +soaked through. Having now no farther occasion for her services, the +commodore, pursuant to his orders from the admiralty, sent notice +to her master, Mr Gerard, that he now discharged the Anna pink from +attending the squadron, and gave him a certificate at the same time, +specifying how long she had been employed. In consequence of this +dismission, her master was left at liberty, either to return directly +to England, or to make the best of his way to any port where he +thought he could take in such a cargo as might serve the interest of +his owners. But, sensible of the bad condition of his ship, and +her unfitness for any such voyage, the master wrote next day to the +commodore, stating, that he had reason to apprehend the bottom of the +Anna to be very much decayed, from the great quantity of water she +had let in on her passage round Cape Horn, and ever since, in the +tempestuous weather she had experienced on the coast of Patagonia; +that her upper decks were rotten abaft; that she was extremely leaky; +that her fore-beam was broken; and, in short, that, in his opinion, it +was impossible to proceed with her to sea, unless she were thoroughly +repaired. He therefore requested of the commodore, that the carpenters +of the squadron might be directed to survey her, so that their +judgment of her condition might be known. In compliance with this +request, the carpenters were ordered to make a careful and accurate +survey of the Anna, and to give in a faithful report to the commodore +of her condition; directing them to proceed with such circumspection, +that they might be able, if hereafter called upon, to confirm the +veracity of their report upon oath. Pursuant to these orders, the +carpenters immediately set about the examination, and made their +report next day. This was in substance, That the Anna had no less than +fourteen knees and twelve beams broken, and decayed; one breast-hook +broken, and another decayed; her water-ways open and decayed; two +standards and several clamps broken, besides others much rotten; all +her iron-work greatly decayed; her spirkiting and timbers very rotten; +that, having ripped off part of her sheathing, her wales and outside +planks were extremely defective; and her bows and decks were very +leaky. From all these defects and decays, they certified that, in +their opinion, the vessel could not depart from Juan Fernandez, +without great hazard, unless previously thoroughly repaired. + +In our present situation, this thorough repair was impracticable, +all the plank and iron in the squadron being insufficient for that +purpose. Wherefore, the opinion of the master being confirmed by this +report, he presented a petition to the commodore, in behalf of his +owners, praying, as his vessel was incapable of leaving the island, +that her hull, materials, and furniture, might be purchased for the +use of the squadron. The commodore, therefore, ordered an inventory +to be taken of every thing belonging to the pink, with its just value; +and as many of her stores might become useful in repairing the other +ship, these articles having become very scarce, in consequence of +the great quantities already expended, he agreed with Mr Gerard to +purchase the whole for L300. The pink was now broken up, Mr Gerard and +her hands being sent on board the Gloucester, as that ship had buried +the greatest number of men in proportion to her complement. Two or +three of them were afterwards received into the Centurion on their +petition, as they were averse from sailing in the same ship with +their old master, on account of some ill usage they alledged to have +suffered from him. + +This transaction brought us down to the beginning of September, by +which time our people were so far recovered from the scurvy, that +there was little danger of burying any more for the present. I shall +therefore now sum up the whole of our loss since our departure from +England, the better to convey some idea of our past sufferings and our +then remaining strength. In the Centurion, since leaving St Helens, we +had buried 292 men, and had 214 remaining. This will doubtless appear +a most extraordinary mortality, yet that in the Gloucester had been +much greater; as, out of a much smaller crew than ours, she had lost +the same number, and had only 82 remaining alive. It might have been +expected that the mortality would have been the most terrible in the +Tryal, as her decks were almost constantly knee deep in water: But +it happened otherwise, for she escaped more favourably than the other +two, having only buried 42, and had 39 remaining alive. The havoc of +this cruel disease had fallen still more severely on the invalids +and marines, than on the sailors. For, in the Centurion, out of 50 +invalids and 79 marines, there only remained four invalids, including +officers, and 11 marines. In the Gloucester every invalid perished; +and of 48 marines, only two escaped. It appears from this account, +that the three ships departed from England with 961 men on board, of +whom 626 were dead, and 335 men and boys only remained alive; a number +greatly insufficient for manning the Centurion alone, and barely +capable of navigating all the three with the utmost exertion of their +strength and vigour. + +This prodigious reduction of our men was the more alarming, as we were +hitherto unacquainted with the fate of the squadron under Pizarro, and +had reason to suppose that some part of it, at least, had got round +into the South Seas. We were, indeed, much of opinion, from our own +sad experience, that they must have suffered greatly in the passage: +but then every port in the South Sea was open to them, and the whole +power of Peru and Chili would be exerted for their refreshment and +repair, and for recruiting their loss of men. We had, also, some +obscure information of a force to be fitted out against us from Paluo; +and, however contemptible the ships and sailors of this part of the +world may have been generally esteemed, it was hardly possible for +any thing bearing the name of a ship of war, to be feebler or less +considerable than ourselves. Even if there had been nothing to +apprehend from the naval power of the Spaniards in these seas, yet our +enfeebled situation necessarily gave us great uneasiness, as we were +incapable of making an attempt against any of their considerable +places; for, in our state of weakness, the risking even of twenty +men, would have put the safety of the whole in hazard. We conceived, +therefore, that we should be forced to content ourselves with what +prizes we might be able to fall in with at sea, before we were +discovered, and then to depart precipitately, and esteem ourselves +fortunate to regain our native country; leaving our enemies to triumph +on the inconsiderable mischief they had suffered from a squadron which +had filled them with such dreadful apprehensions. We had reason to +imagine the Spanish ostentation would remarkably exert itself on +this subject, though our disappointment and their security neither +originated in their valour nor our misconduct. Such were the +desponding reflections which at this time arose, on the review and +comparison of our remaining weakness with our original strength: And, +indeed, our fears were far from being groundless, or disproportionate +to our feeble and almost desperate condition: For, though the final +event proved more honourable than we foreboded, yet the intermediate +calamities did likewise surpass our most gloomy apprehensions; and, +could these have been predicted to us while at Juan Fernandez, they +would doubtless have appeared insurmountable. + +In the beginning of September, as already mentioned, our men being +tolerably well recovered, and the season of navigation in these seas +drawing nigh, we exerted ourselves in getting our ships ready for sea. +We converted the foremast of the Anna into a new main-mast for the +Tryal; and, still flattering ourselves with the possible hope of +some other ships of our squadron arriving, we intended to leave the +main-mast of the Anna, to make a new mizen-mast for the Wager. All +hands being thus employed in preparing for our departure, we espied +a sail to the N.E. about eleven a.m. of the 18th September, which +continued to approach us till her courses appeared even with the +horizon. While advancing, we had great hopes that this might prove +one of our squadron; but she at length steered away to the eastward, +without hauling in for the island, on which we concluded that she must +be Spanish. Great differences of opinion now took place, as to the +possibility of her people having discovered our tents on shore; some +of us strongly insisting, that she certainly had been near enough to +have seen something that had given them a jealousy to an enemy, which +had occasioned her standing away to the eastwards. Leaving these +contests to be settled afterwards, it was resolved to pursue her; and, +as the Centurion was in the greatest forwardness, all her hands were +got immediately on board, her rigging set up, and her sails bent with +all possible expedition, and we got under sail by five in the evening. + +At this time we had so very little wind, that all the boats were +employed to tow us out of the bay, and what wind there was lasted only +long enough to give us an offing of two or three leagues, when it +fell dead calm. As night came on we lost sight of the chase, and were +extremely impatient for the return of light, in hopes to find that she +had been becalmed, as well as we; yet her great distance from the land +was 3 reasonable ground for suspecting the contrary, as we actually +found in the morning, to our great mortification; for, though the +weather was then quite clear, we had no sight of the chase from the +mast-head. But, being now quite satisfied that she was an enemy, and +the first we had seen in these seas, we resolved not to give over the +chase lightly; and, on a small breeze springing up from the W.N.W. we +got up our top-gallant masts and yards, set all the sails, and steered +S.E. in hopes of retrieving the chase, which we imagined might be +bound for Valparaiso. We continued on this course all that day and the +next; and then, seeing nothing of the chase, gave over the pursuit, +believing that she had, in all probability, reached her port. + +Resolving to return to Juan Fernandez, we hauled up to the S.W. having +very little wind till the 12th, at three a.m. when a gale sprung up at +W.S.W. which obliged us to tack and stand to the N.W. At day-break, +we were agreeably surprised by the appearance of a sail on our +weather-bow, between four and five leagues distant, on which we +crowded all sail and stood towards her, soon perceiving she was a +different vessel from that we had chased before. She at first bore +down towards us, shewing Spanish colours, and making a signal as to +a consort; but, seeing we did not answer her signal, she instantly +loofed close to the wind and stood to the southward. Our people were +now all in high spirits, and put about ship with great briskness; +and, as the chase appeared a large ship, and had mistaken us for +her consort, we imagined that she must be a man of war, and probably +belonged to the squadron of Pizarro. This induced the commodore to +order all the officers cabins to be knocked down and thrown overboard, +along with several casks of water and provisions, that stood between +the guns; so that we had a clear ship, ready for action. About nine +a.m. it came on thick hazy weather, with a shower of rain, during +which we lost sight of the chase, and were apprehensive, if this +weather should continue, she might escape us, by going on the other +tack, or some other device. The weather cleared up, however, in +less than an hour, when we found that we had both weathered and +fore-reached upon her considerably, and were then near enough to +perceive that she was only a merchant ship, without a single tire of +guns. About half an hour after twelve noon, being within reasonable +distance, we fired four shot among her rigging; on which they lowered +their top-sails and bore down to us, but in very great confusion, +their top-gallant-sails and stay-sails all fluttering in the wind. +This was owing to their having let run their sheets and halyards, just +as we fired at them; after which not a man among them would venture +aloft to take them in, as our shot had passed there just before. + +As soon as the vessel came within hail of us, the commodore ordered +her to bring to under his lee quarter; and having the boat hoisted +out, sent our first lieutenant, Mr Saumarez, to take possession of the +prize, with orders to send all the prisoners on board the Centurion, +the officers and passengers first. When Mr Saumarez boarded the prize, +he was received by her people at the side with the most abject tokens +of submission; as they were all, especially the passengers, who were +twenty-five in number, extremely terrified, and under the greatest +apprehensions of meeting with very severe and cruel usage. But the +lieutenant endeavoured, with great courtesy, to dissipate their +terror, assuring them that their fears were altogether groundless, +and that they would find a generous enemy in the commodore, who was +no less remarkable for his lenity and humanity, than for courage and +resolution. The prisoners who were first sent on board the Centurion, +informed us, that the prize was called _Neustra Lenora del Monte +Carmelo_, and her commander Don Manuel Zamorra. Her cargo consisted +chiefly of sugar, and a great quantity of blue cloth, made in the +province of Quito, somewhat resembling our coarse English broad cloth, +but inferior. They had also several bales of a coarser cloth, of +different colours, somewhat like Colchester baize, called by them +_Panniada Tierra_; with a few bales of cotton, and some tolerably +well-flavoured tobacco, though strong. These were her principal goods; +but we found besides, what was much more valuable than the rest of +her cargo, some trunks full of wrought silver plate, and twenty-three +serons of dollars, each weighing upwards of two hundred pounds.[2] +This ship was of about 450 tons burden, having on board 53 sailors, +including whites and blacks. She came from Calao, bound for +Valparaiso, and had been twenty-seven days at sea. Her return cargo +from Chili was to have been corn and Chili wine, with some gold, dried +beef, and small cordage, which is afterwards converted at Calao into +larger rope. This vessel had been built thirty years before; yet, +as they lie in harbour all winter, and the climate is remarkably +favourable, she was not considered as very old. Her rigging and sails +were very indifferent, the latter being of cotton. She had only three +four-pounders, which were quite unserviceable, as their carriages +could scarcely support them; and they had no small arms on board, +except a few pistols belonging to the passengers. They had sailed from +Callao in company with two other ships, which they had parted from +a few days before, and had at first taken our ship for one of their +consorts; and, by the description we gave of the ship we had chased +from Juan Fernandez, they assured us that she was one of their number; +although the coming in sight of that island is directly contrary to +the merchant's instructions, as knowing, if any English ships should +be in these seas, that this island is most likely to be their place of +rendezvous. + +[Footnote 2: A seron is a species of package made and used in Spanish +America, consisting of a piece of raw bullock's hide with the hair on, +formed while wet into the shape of a small trunk, and sewed together. +The quantity of dollars taken on this occasion may have been between +seventy and eighty thousand.--E.] + +We met with very important intelligence in this prize, partly from +the prisoners, and partly from letters and papers that fell into +our hands. By these we first learnt with certainty the force and +destination of that squadron which cruised off Madeira at our arrival +there, and had afterwards chased the Pearl in our passage to Port St +Julian. This squadron we now knew to be composed of five large Spanish +ships, commanded by Admiral Pizarro, and purposely fitted out to +traverse our designs, as has been already more amply related in our +third section. We had now the satisfaction to find, that Pizarro, +after his utmost endeavours to get round into these seas, had been +forced back to the Rio Plata, after losing two of his largest +ships; which, considering our great weakness, was no unacceptable +intelligence. We also learnt, that, though an embargo had been laid on +all shipping in the ports of South America, by the viceroy of Peru, +in the preceding month of May, on the supposition that we might then +arrive on the coast, yet it now no longer subsisted: For, on receiving +the account overland of the distresses of Pizarro, part of which they +knew we must also have suffered; and, on hearing nothing of us for +eight months after we were known to have left St Catharines, they were +fully satisfied we must either have been shipwrecked, have perished +at sea, or have been obliged to put back again; as they conceived +it impossible for any ships to have continued at sea for so long an +interval, and therefore, on the application of the merchants, and the +persuasion that we had miscarried, the embargo had been lately taken +off. + +This intelligence made us flatter ourselves, as the enemy was still +ignorant of our having got round Cape Horn, and as navigation was +restored, that we might meet with some valuable captures, and might +indemnify ourselves in that way, of our incapacity to attempt any of +their considerable settlements on shore. This much at least we were +certain of, from the information of our prisoners, that, whatever +might be our success in regard to prizes, we had nothing to fear, weak +even as we were, from the Spanish force in that part of the world, +though we discovered that we had been in most imminent peril, when we +least apprehended any, when our other distresses were at the greatest +height. As we found, by letters in the prize, that Pizarro, in the +dispatch he sent by express to the viceroy of Peru overland, after +his own return to the Rio Plata, had intimated the possibility of some +part of our squadron getting round; and as, from his own experience, +he was certain any of our ships that might arrive in the South Seas +must be in a very weak and defenceless condition, he advised the +viceroy to send what ships of war he had to the southwards, in order +to be secure at all events, where, in all probability, they would +intercept us singly, before we had an opportunity of touching any +where for refreshment; in which case he had no doubt of our proving an +easy conquest. The viceroy approved this advice, and as he had already +fitted out four ships of force at Callao, one of 50 guns, two of 40 +each, and one of 24, which were intended to have joined Pizarro, three +of these were stationed off the port of Conception, and one at the +island of Juan Fernandez, where they continued cruising for us till +the 6th of June; and then, conceiving it impossible that we could +have kept the sea so long, they quitted this station and returned to +Callao, fully persuaded we must either have perished, or been driven +back. + +Now, as the time when they left Juan Fernandez was only a few days +before our arrival at that island, it is evident, if we had made it +on our first search, without hauling in for the main to secure our +easting, a circumstance we then considered as very unfortunate, on +account of the many men we lost by our long continuance at sea; had +we made the island 28th of May, when we first expected to see it, and +were in reality very near to have so done, we had inevitably fallen in +with some part of the squadron from Callao; and in our then distressed +condition, the encounter of a healthy and well-provided enemy might +have proved fatal, not only to us in the Centurion, but also to the +Tryal, Gloucester, and Anna pink, which separately joined us, and were +each less capable to have resisted than we. I may also add, that these +Spanish ships, sent out to intercept us, had been greatly shattered by +a storm during their cruise, and had been laid up after their +return to Callao; and we were assured by our prisoners, that, when +intelligence might be received at Lima of our being in the South Seas, +it would require two months at least, before this armament could +be refitted for going to sea. The whole of this intelligence was as +favourable as we, in our reduced circumstances, could wish for; and +we were now at no loss to account for the broken jars, ashes, and fish +bones, which we had observed at Juan Fernandez on our first landing; +these things having been doubtless the relics of the cruisers +stationed at that island. Having thus satisfied ourselves in the most +material articles of our enquiry, got all the silver on board the +Centurion, and most of the prisoners, we made sail to the northward +at eight that same evening, in company with our prize. We got sight of +Juan Fernandez at six next morning, and the day following both we and +our prize got safe there to anchor. When the prize and her crew came +into the bay, in which the rest of our squadron lay, the Spaniards, +who had been sufficiently informed of the distresses we had gone +through, and were astonished we had been able to surmount them, were +still more surprised when they saw the Tryal sloop, that, after all +our fatigues, we should have had the industry to complete such a +vessel in so short a time, besides refitting our other ships, as they +concluded we had certainly built her there; nor was it without great +difficulty they could be brought to believe that she came from England +with the rest of the squadron; for they long insisted, that it was +impossible for such a bauble as she was to have passed round Cape +Horn, when the best ships of Spain were forced to put back. + +By the time of our arrival at Juan Fernandez, the letters found on +board our prize were more minutely examined, and it appeared from +them, and from the examination of our prisoners, that several other +merchant-ships were bound from Callao to Valparaiso. Whereupon, the +commodore dispatched the Tryal sloop, the very next morning, to cruise +off the port of Valparaiso, reinforcing her crew with ten men from the +Centurion. The commodore resolved also, on the above intelligence, +to employ the ships under his command in separate cruises, as by this +means he might increase the chance of taking prizes, and should run +less risk of being discovered, and alarming the coast. The spirits of +our people were now greatly raised, and their despondency dissipated, +by this earnest of success, so that they forgot all their past +distresses, resumed their wonted alacrity, and laboured incessantly in +completing our water, receiving our lumber, and preparing to leave the +island. + +These necessary occupations took us up four or five days, with all our +industry and exertions; and in this interval, the commodore +directed the guns of the Anna pink, being four six-pounders and four +four-pounders, with two swivels, to be mounted in the Carmelo, our +prize. He sent also on board the Gloucester, six Spanish passengers +and twenty-three captured seamen, to assist in navigating that ship, +and directed Captain Mitchell to leave the island as soon as possible, +the service demanding the utmost despatch, giving him orders to +proceed to the latitude of 5 deg. S. and there to cruise off the high-land +of Payta, at such distance from shore as should prevent his being +discovered. He was to continue on this station till joined by the +Centurion; which was to be whenever it should be known that the +viceroy had fitted out the ships of war at Callao, or on the commodore +receiving any other intelligence that should make it necessary to +divide our strength. These orders being delivered to Captain Mitchell +of the Gloucester, and all our business completed, we weighed anchor +in the Centurion, on Saturday the 19th of September, in company with +our prize the Carmelo, and got out of the bay, taking our last leave +of Juan Fernandez, and steering to the eastward, with the intention +of joining the Tryal sloop, on her station off Valparaiso, leaving the +Gloucester still at anchor. + + + +SECTION XV. + +_Our Cruise, from leaving Juan Fernandez, to the taking of Payta._ + +Although we left the bay on the 19th of September, yet, by the +irregularity and fluctuation of the wind in the offing, it was the 22d +of that month, in the evening, before we lost sight of Juan Fernandez; +after which we continued our course to the eastward, in order to join +the Tryal off Valparaiso. Next night the weather proved squally, and +we split our main top-sail, which we then handed; but got it repaired +and set again by next morning. In the evening, a little before sunset, +we saw two sail to the eastward, on which our prize stood directly +from us, to avoid any suspicion of our being cruisers, while we made +ready for an engagement, and steered with all our canvass towards the +two ships we had descried. We soon perceived, that one of them, which +seemed a very stout ship, stood directly for us, while the other kept +at a great distance. By seven o'clock we were within pistol-shot of +the nearest, and had a broadside ready to pour into her, the gunners +having their lighted matches in their hands, only waiting orders to +fire. But, as the commodore knew that she could not now escape, +he ordered the master to hail the ship in Spanish; on which her +commanding officer, who happened to be Mr Hughes, lieutenant of the +Tryal, answered us in English, that she was a prize, taken by the +Tryal a few days before, and that the other vessel at a distance was +the Tryal, disabled in her masts. + +We were soon after joined by the Tryal, when her commander, Captain +Saunders, came on board the Centurion. He acquainted the commodore, +that he had taken this ship on the 18th, being a prime sailor, which +had cost him thirty-six hours chase before he could get up with her, +and that for some time he gained so little upon her, that he almost +despaired of ever making up with the chase. The Spaniards were at +first alarmed, by seeing nothing but a cloud of sail in pursuit of +them, as the hull of the Tryal lay so low in the water, that no part +of it appeared; yet knowing the goodness of their ship, and finding +how little the Tryal neared them, they at last laid aside their fears, +and, recommending themselves to the protection of the blessed Virgin, +they began to think themselves quite secure. Indeed, their success was +near doing honour to their _Ave Marias_; for, altering their course +in the night, and shutting close their cabin windows to prevent any of +their lights from being seen, they had some chance of escaping: But a +small crevice in one of their shutters rendered all their invocations +of no avail; as the people of the Tryal perceived a light through this +crevice, which they chased till they got within gun-shot; and then +Captain Saunders alarmed them with a broadside, when they flattered +themselves they were beyond his reach. For some time, however, the +chase still kept the same sail abroad, and it was not observed that +this first salute had made any impression; but, just as the Tryal was +about to repeat her broadsides the Spaniards crept from their holes, +lowered their sails, and submitted without opposition. She was named +the _Arranzazu_, being one of the largest merchantmen employed in +these seas, of about 600 tons burden, bound from Calao to Valparaiso, +having much the same cargo with the Carmelo, our former prize, except +that her silver amounted only to about 5000l. sterling. + +To balance this success, we found that the Tryal had sprung her +main-mast, and that her main-top-mast had come by the board; and next +morning, as we were all standing to the eastward in a fresh gale at S. +she had the additional misfortune to spring her fore-mast, so that now +she had not a mast left on which she could carry sail. These unhappy +circumstances were still further aggravated, by the impossibility +of our being then able to assist her, for the wind blew so hard, and +raised such a hollow sea, that we could not venture to hoist out a +boat, and consequently could not have any communication with her; so +that we were obliged to lie-to for the greatest part of forty-eight +hours to attend upon her, as we could not possibly leave her in such a +condition of distress. It was no small addition to our misfortunes, +on this occasion, that we were all the while driving to leeward of our +intended station, and at the very time, when, by our intelligence, we +had reason to expect several of the enemy's ships would appear on the +coast, and would now get into the port of Valparaiso unobstructed; +and, I am convinced, the embarrassment we suffered by the dismasting +of the Tryal and our consequent absence from our intended station, +deprived, us of some very considerable captures. + +The weather proved somewhat more moderate on the 27th, when we sent +our boat for Captain Saunders, who came on board the Centurion, where +he produced an instrument, signed by himself and all his officers, +representing that the Tryal, besides being dismasted, was so very +leaky in her hull, that it was necessary to ply the pumps continually, +even in moderate weather, and that they were then scarcely able +to keep her free; insomuch that, in the late gale, though all the +officers even had been engaged in turns at the pumps, yet the water +had increased upon them; and that, on the whole, they apprehended her +present condition to be so defective, that they must all inevitably +perish if they met with much bad weather: For all which reasons, +he petitioned the commodore to take measures for their safety. The +refittal of the Tryal, and the repair of her defects, were utterly +beyond our power on the present conjuncture, for we had no masts to +spare, no stores to complete her rigging, and no port in which she +could be hove down, to examine and repair her bottom. Even had we +possessed a port, and proper requisites for the purpose it would yet +have been extremely imprudent, in so critical a conjuncture to have +loitered away so much time as would have been necessary for these +operations. The commodore, therefore, had no choice left, but was +under the necessity of taking out her people and destroying her. Yet, +as he conceived it expedient to keep up the appearance of our force, +he appointed the Tryal's prize, which had often been employed by the +viceroy of Peru as a man-of-war, to be a frigate in his majesty's +service, manning her with the crew of the Tryal, and giving +commissions to the captain and all the inferior officers accordingly. +This new frigate, when in the Spanish service, had mounted thirty-two +guns; but she was now to have only twenty, which were the twelve that +belonged to the Tryal and eight that had been on board the Anna pink. + +This affair being resolved on, the commodore gave orders to Captain +Saunders to carry it into execution, directing him to take all the +arms, stores, ammunition, and every thing else that could be of use +from the sloop, and then to scuttle and sink her. After all this was +done, Captain Saunders was to proceed with his new frigate, now +called the _Tryal's prize_, to cruise off the high-land of Valparaiso, +keeping it from him N.N.W. at the distance of twelve or fourteen +leagues: for, as all ships from Valparaiso bound to the northward, +steer that course, the commodore proposed, by this means, to stop any +intelligence that might be dispatched to Callao, of two of their ships +being amissing, which might give them apprehensions of the English +squadron being in their neighbourhood. The Tryal's prize was to +continue on this station for twenty-four days, and, if not joined by +the commodore before the expiration of that time, was then to proceed +along the coast to Pisco, or Nasca, where she would be certain to find +the Centurion. The commodore also ordered Lieutenant Saumarez, +who commanded the Centurion's prize, to keep company with Captain +Saunders, both to assist in unloading the Tryal, and that, by +spreading in their cruise off Valparaiso, there might be less danger +of any ships of the enemy slipping past unobserved. These orders being +dispatched, the Centurion parted from the other vessels at eleven at +night of the 27th September, directing her course towards Valparaiso, +with the view of cruising for some days to windward of that port. By +this distribution of our ships, we flattered ourselves that we had +taken all the advantages we possibly could of the enemy with our small +force, as our disposition was certainly the most prudent that could +be devised: For, as we might suppose the Gloucester to be now drawing +nigh the high-land of Payta, we were thus enabled, by our separate +stations, to intercept all vessels employed either between Peru and +Chili to the southward, or between Panama and Peru to the northward, +since the principal trade from Peru to Chili being carried on with the +port of Valparaiso, the Centurion, cruising to windward of that port, +would probably meet with them, as it is the constant practice of these +ships to fall in with land to windward of that place. The Gloucester, +also, would be in the way of all ships bound from Panama, or any other +place to the northward, to any port in Peru, since the highland, off +which she was ordered to cruise, is constantly made by every ship on +that voyage. While the Centurion and Gloucester were thus conveniently +situated for intercepting the trade of the enemy, the Tryal's prize, +and Centurion's prize, were as conveniently stationed for preventing +the communication of intelligence, by intercepting all vessels bound +from Valparaiso to the northward; as by such vessels it was to be +feared that some account of us might be transmitted to Peru. + +But the most judicious dispositions only produce a probability of +success, and cannot command certainty; since those chances, which may +reasonably enough be overlooked in deliberation, are sometimes of most +powerful influence in execution. Thus, in the present instance, the +distress of the Tryal, and our necessary quitting our station to +assist her, which were events that no degree of prudence could either +foresee or obviate, gave an opportunity to all the ships bound for +Valparaiso to reach that port without molestation during this unlucky +interval: so that, after leaving Captain Saunders, we used every +expedition in regaining our station, which we reached on the 29th at +noon; yet, in plying on and off till the 6th of October, we had not +the good fortune to fall in with a sail of any sort. Having lost all +hope of meeting with any better fortune by longer stay, we then made +sail to leeward of the port, in order to rejoin our prizes; but when +we arrived off the high-land, where they were directed to cruise, we +did not find them, though we continued there three or four days. It +was supposed, therefore, that some chase had occasioned them to +quit their station, wherefore we proceeded to the northward to the +high-land of Nasca, in lat. 15 deg. 20' S. being the second rendezvous +appointed for Captain Saunders to join us. We got there on the 21st of +October, and were in great expectation of falling in with some of +the enemy's vessels, as both the accounts of former voyagers, and +the information of our prisoners, assured us, that all ships bound to +Callao consequently make this land to prevent the danger of falling to +leeward of the port. + +Notwithstanding the advantages of this station, we saw no sail +whatever till the 2d November, when two ships appeared together, to +which we immediately gave chase, and soon perceived that they were the +Tryal's and Centurion's prizes. As they were to windward, we brought +to and waited their coming up; when Captain Saunders came on board +the Centurion, and acquainted the commodore that he had cleared and +scuttled the Tryal according to his orders, and remained by her till +she sunk. It was, however, the 4th of October before this could be +effected; for there ran so large and hollow a sea that the sloop, +having neither masts nor sails to steady her, rolled and pitched so +violently, that, for the greatest part of the time, it was impossible +for a boat to lie alongside of her; and, during this attendance on +the sloop, they were all driven so far to the N.W. that they were +afterwards obliged to stretch a long way to the westward, in order to +regain the ground they had lost, which was the reason we had not met +them on their station. They had met with no better fortune on their +cruise than ourselves, never having seen a single vessel since we left +them. + +This want of success, and our certainty if any ships had been stirring +in these seas for some time past, that we must have fallen in with +them, made us believe that the enemy at Valparaiso, on missing the +two ships we had taken, had suspected us to be in these seas, and had +consequently laid an embargo on all trade in the southern parts. We +likewise apprehended they might, by this time, be fitting out the +ships of war at Callao; as we knew that it was not uncommon for an +express to reach Lima from Valparaiso in twenty-nine or thirty days, +and it was now more than fifty since we had taken the first prize. +These apprehensions of an embargo on the coast, and of the equipment +of the Spanish squadron at Callao, determined the commodore to hasten +down to the leeward of Callao, to join the Gloucester as soon as +possible off Payta, that, our strength being united, we might be +prepared to give the ships from Callao a warm reception, if they dared +to put to sea. With this view we bore away that same afternoon, taking +particular care to keep at such a distance from the shore that there +might be no danger of our being discovered from thence; for we knew +that all the ships of that country were commanded, under the severest +penalties, not to sail past the harbour of Callao without stopping: as +this order is always complied with, we should undoubtedly be known for +enemies if we were seen to act contrary to that regulation. In this +new navigation, being uncertain if we might not meet the Spanish +squadron on the way, the commodore took back a part of the crew of the +Centurion which had been for some time on board the Carmelo. + +While standing to the northward, we had sight of the small island of +St Gallan[1] before night, bearing from us N.N.E. 1/2 E. about seven +leagues distant. This island lies in about the latitude of 14 deg. S. and +about five miles to the northward of a high-land called Morro Viejo, +or the Old-man's Head, which island and high-land near it are here +more particularly mentioned, because between them is perhaps the most +eligible station on all this coast for cruising against the enemy, as +hereabouts all ships bound for Callao, whether from the northward or +southward, run well in with the land. By the 5th November, at 3 p.m. +we were within sight of the high-land of _Barranca_, in lat. 10 deg. 36' +S. bearing from us N.E. by E. eight or nine leagues distant; and an +hour and a half afterwards we had the satisfaction, so long wished +for, of seeing a sail. She appeared to leeward, and we all immediately +gave chase; but the Centurion so much outsailed the two prizes that +we soon ran them both out of sight, and gained considerably upon the +chase. Night, however, came on before we could make up with her, and +about seven o'clock the darkness concealed her from our view, and +we were in some perplexity what course to steer; but our commodore +resolved, being then before the wind, to keep all his sails set and +not to change his course: For, although there was no doubt the chase +would alter her course in the night, as it was quite uncertain what +tack she might go upon, he thought it more prudent to continue the +same course, rather than change it on conjecture, as, should we +mistake, she would certainly get away. Continuing the chase about +an hour and a half after dark, one or other of our people constantly +believing they saw her sails right a-head of us, our second +lieutenant, Mr Brett, at length actually discovered her about four +points on the larboard bow, steering off to seawards, on which we +immediately clapped the helm a-weather, standing right towards her, +and came up with her in less than an hour, and, having fired fourteen +shots at her, she struck. Mr Dennis, our third lieutenant, was sent +in the boat with sixteen men to take possession of the prize, and to +shift the prisoners to our ship. + +[Footnote 1: This island of San Gallan is in lat. 14 deg. S. long. 76 deg. W. +about twelve miles S.W. of Pisco.--E.] + +This vessel was named the _Santa Teresa de Jesus_, built at Guayaquil, +of about 300 tons burden, commanded by Bartolome Urrunaga, a Biscayan. +She was bound from Guayaquil to Callao, her loading consisting of +timber, cocoa, cocoa-nuts, tobacco, hides, _Pito_ thread, (which is +made of a kind of grass and is very strong,) Quito cloth, wax, +and various other articles; but the specie on board was very +inconsiderable, being principally small silver coin, not exceeding +170l. sterling in value. Her cargo, indeed, was of great value, if +we could have sold it; but the Spaniards have strict orders never to +ransom their ships, so that all the goods we captured in the South +Seas, except what little we had occasion for ourselves, were of no +advantage to us; yet it was some satisfaction to consider, that it +was so much real loss to the enemy, and that despoiling them was no +contemptible part of the service in which we were employed, and was so +far beneficial to our country. Besides her crew of forty-five hands, +she had on board ten passengers, consisting of four men and three +women, who were natives of the country, but born of Spanish parents, +together with three negro slaves who attended them. The women were a +mother and two daughters, the elder about twenty-one, and the younger +about fourteen. It is not to be wondered that women of these years +should be excessively alarmed at falling into the hands of an enemy +whom they had been taught to consider as the most lawless and brutal +of all mankind, owing to the former excesses of the buccaneers, and +by the artful insinuations of their priests. In the present instance +these apprehensions were much augmented by the singular beauty of +the youngest of the women, and the riotous disposition they might +naturally enough expect to find in a set of sailors who had not seen a +woman for near a twelvemonth. + +Full of these terrors, the women all hid themselves on the lieutenant +coming on board, and, when found out, it was with difficulty he could +persuade them to come to the light. But he soon satisfied them, by the +humanity of his conduct, and by his assurances of their future +safety and honourable treatment, that they had nothing to fear. The +commodore, also, being informed of their fears, sent directions that +they should continue in their own ship, with the use of the same +apartments and all other conveniences they had before enjoyed, +giving strict orders that they should experience no inquietude or +molestation; and, that they might be the more certain of having these +orders complied with, or having the means of complaining if they were +not, the commodore appointed the pilot, who is generally the second +person in Spanish ships, to remain with them as their guardian and +protector. He was particularly chosen on this occasion, as he seemed +extremely interested in all that concerned these women, and had +at first declared that he was married to the youngest; though it +afterwards appeared that he had asserted this merely with the view of +securing them from the insults they dreaded on falling into our hands. +By this compassionate and indulgent behaviour of the commodore, the +consternation of our female prisoners entirety subsided, and they +continued easy and cheerful during the time they were with us. + +I have before mentioned that the Centurion ran her two consorts out +of sight at the commencement of this chase, on which account we lay to +for them all the night after we had taken the prize, firing guns and +shewing false fires every half hour, to prevent them from passing us +unobserved. But they were so far astern, that they neither heard nor +saw any of our signals, and were not able to come up with us till +broad day. When they had joined, we proceeded together to the +northward, being now four sail in company. We here found the sea +for many miles of a beautiful red colour, owing, as we found upon +examination, to an immense quantity of spawn floating on its surface: +For, taking some of the water in a glass, it soon changed from a dirty +aspect to be perfectly clear, with some red globules of a slimy nature +floating on the top. Having now a supply of timber in our new prize, +the commodore ordered all our boats to be repaired, and a swivel-stock +to be fitted in the bow of the barge and pinnace, in order to increase +their force, in case we should have occasion to use them in boarding +ships, or making any attempt on shore. + +Continuing our course to the northward, nothing remarkable occurred +for two or three days, though we spread our ships in such a manner +that it was not probable any vessel of the enemy should escape us. +During our voyage along this coast, we generally observed that a +current set us to the northward, at the rate of ten or twelve miles +every day. When in about the latitude of 8 deg. S. we began to be attended +by vast numbers of flying fish and bonitos, which were the first we +had seen after leaving the coast of Brazil. It is remarkable that +these fish extend to a much higher latitude on the east side of +America than on the west, as we did not lose them on the coast of +Brazil till near the southern tropic. The reason, doubtless, of this +diversity, is owing to the different degrees of heat obtaining on +different sides of the continent in the same latitude; and, on this +occasion, I use the freedom to make a short digression on the heat and +cold of different climates, and on the variations which occur in the +same places at different times of the year, and in different places in +the same degree of latitude. + +The ancients conceived that of the five zones into which they divided +the surface of the globe, two only were habitable; supposing that the +heat between the tropics, and the cold within the polar circles, were +too intense to be supported by mankind. The falsehood of this idea has +been long established; but the particular comparison of the heat +and cold of these various climates have as yet been very imperfectly +considered. Enough is known, however, safely to determine this +position, that all the places within the tropics are far from being +the hottest on the globe, as many within the polar circle are far from +enduring that extreme degree of cold to which their situation seems to +subject them; that is to say, that the temperature of a place depends +much more upon other circumstances, than upon its distance from the +pole, or its proximity to the equinoctial line. + +This proposition relates to the general temperature of places taking +the whole year round, and, in this sense, it cannot be denied that +the city of London, for instance, enjoys much warmer seasons than +the bottom of Hudson's Bay, which is nearly in the same latitude, but +where the severity of the winter is so great as scarcely to permit +the hardiest of our garden plants to live. If the comparison be made +between the coast of Brazil and the western shore of South America, +as, for example, between Bahia and Lima, the difference will be found +still more considerable; for, though the coast of Brazil is extremely +sultry, yet the coast of the South Sea, in the same latitude, is +perhaps as temperate and tolerable as any part of the globe; since we, +in ranging it along, did not once meet with such warm weather as is +frequently felt in a summer day in England, which was still the more +remarkable, as there never fell any rain to refresh and cool the air. + +The causes of this lower temperature in the South Sea are not +difficult to be assigned, and shall be mentioned hereafter. I am now +only solicitous to establish the truth of this assertion, that the +latitude of a place alone is no rule by which to judge of the degree +of heat and cold which obtains there. Perhaps this position might be +more briefly confirmed by observing that on the tops of the Andes, +though under the equator, the snow never melts the whole year round; +a criterion of cold stronger than is known to take place in many parts +far within the polar circle. + +Hitherto I have considered the temperature of the air all the year +through, and the gross estimations of heat and cold which every one +makes from his own sensations. But if this matter be examined by means +of thermometers, which are doubtless the most unerring evidences in +respect to the absolute degrees of heat and cold, the result will be +indeed most wonderful; since it will appear that the heat in very high +latitudes, as at Petersburgh for instance, is, at particular times, +much greater than any that has been hitherto observed between the +tropics. Even at London in the year 1746, there was a part of one day +considerably hotter than was at any time felt in one of the ships +of our squadron in the whole voyage out and home, though four times +passing under the equator; for, in the summer of that year, the +thermometer in London, graduated according to the scale of Fahrenheit, +stood at 78 deg., and the greatest observed heat, by a thermometer of the +same kind in the same ship, was 76 deg., which was at St Catharines in +the latter end of December, when the sun was within about 3 deg. of the +vertex. At St Petersburgh, I find by the acts of the Academy, in the +year 1734, on the 20th and 25th of July, that the thermometer rose +to 98 deg. in the shade, or 22 deg. higher than it was found to be at +St Catharines; which extraordinary degree of heat, were it not +authenticated by the regularity and circumspection with which the +observations appear to have been conducted, would appear altogether +incredible. + +If it should be asked, how it comes then to pass, that the heat, +in many places between the tropics, is esteemed so violent and +insufferable, when it appears, by these instances, that it is +sometimes rivalled, and even exceeded, in very high latitudes, not far +from the polar circle? I shall answer, That the estimation of heat, +in any particular place, ought not to be founded upon that particular +degree of it which may now and then obtain there; but is rather to be +deduced from the medium observed during a whole season, or perhaps in +a whole year; and in this light, it will easily appear how much more +intense the same degree of heat may prove, by being long continued +without remarkable variation. For instance, in comparing together St +Catharines and St Petersburg, we shall suppose the summer heat at St +Catharines to be 76 deg., and the winter heat to be only 56 deg.. I do not +make this last supposition upon sufficient authority, but am apt to +suspect the allowance is full large. Upon this supposition, therefore, +the medium heat all the year round will be 66 deg.; and this perhaps by +night as well as by day, with no great variation. Now, those who have +attended to thermometrical observation will readily allow, that a +continuance of this degree of heat for a length of time, would be +found violent and suffocating by the generality of mankind. But at +Petersburg, though the heat, as measured by the thermometer, may +happen to be a few times in the year considerably higher than at St +Catharines, yet, at other times, the cold is intensely sharper, and +the medium for a year, or even for one season only, would be far +short of 60 deg.. For I find, that the variation of the thermometer at +Petersburgh, is at least five times greater, from its highest to its +lowest point, than I have supposed it to be at St Catherines.[2] + +[Footnote 2: On his own principles, the lowest heat of Petersburg +ought to be -2 deg., and the medium temperature of the year 48 deg.; but the +data are loosely expressed and quite unsatisfactory, as indeed is the +whole reasoning on the subject.--E.] + +Besides this estimation of the heat of a place, by taking the medium +for a considerable time together, there is another circumstance which +will still farther augment the apparent heat of the warmer climates, +and diminish that of the colder, though I do not remember to have seen +it remarked by any author. To explain myself more distinctly upon this +head, I must observe, that the measure of absolute heat, marked by +the thermometer, is not the certain criterion of the sensation of +heat with which human bodies are affected; for, as the presence and +perpetual succession of fresh air is necessary to our respiration, so +there is a species of tainted or stagnated air often produced by the +continuance of great heats, which, being less proper for respiration, +never fails to excite in us an idea of sultriness and suffocating +warmth, much beyond what the heat of the air alone would occasion, +supposing it pure and agitated. Hence it follows, that the mere +inspection of the thermometer will never determine the heat which the +human body feels from this cause; and hence also, the heat, in most +places between the tropics, must be much more troublesome and uneasy, +than the same degree of absolute heat in a high latitude. For the +equability and duration of the tropical heat contribute to impregnate +the air with a multitude of steams and vapours from the soil and +water; and many of these being of an impure and noxious kind, and +being not easily removed, by reason of the regularity of the winds +in those parts, which only shift the exhalations from place to place, +without dispersing them, the atmosphere is by this means rendered +less capable of supporting the animal functions, and mankind are +consequently affected by what they call a most intense and stifling +heat. Whereas, in the higher latitudes, these vapours are probably +raised in smaller quantities, and are frequently dispersed by the +irregularity and violence of the winds; so that the air, being in +general more pure and less stagnant, the same degree of absolute heat +is not attended by that uneasy and suffocating sensation. + +This may suffice, in general, with respect to the present speculation; +but I cannot help wishing, as it is a subject in which mankind are +very much interested, especially travellers of all sorts, that it were +more thoroughly and accurately examined, and that all ships bound +to the warmer climates were furnished with thermometers of a known +fabric, and would observe them daily, and register their observations. +For, considering the turn to philosophical enquiries which has +obtained in Europe since the beginning of the eighteenth century, it +is incredible how very rarely any thing of this kind has been +attended to. For my own part, I do not remember to have ever seen any +observations of the heat and cold, either in the East or West Indies, +which were made by marines or officers of vessels, excepting those +made by order of Commodore Anson on board the Centurion, and those by +Captain Legg on board the Severn, another ship of our squadron. + +I have been in some measure drawn into this digression, by the +consideration of the fine weather we experienced on the coast of +Peru, even under the equinoctial, but I have not yet described the +particularities of this weather. I shall now therefore observe, that +every circumstance concurred, in this climate, that could render the +open air and the day-light desirable: For, in other countries, the +scorching heat of the sun in summer renders the greater part of the +day unapt either for labour or amusement, and the frequent rains are +not less troublesome in the more temperate parts of the year: But, in +this happy climate, the sun rarely appears. Not that the heavens +have at any time a dark or gloomy aspect; for there is constantly a +cheerful gray sky, just sufficient to screen the sun, and to mitigate +the violence of its perpendicular rays, without obscuring the air, or +tinging the light of day with an unpleasant or melancholy hue. By this +means, all parts of the day are proper for labour or exercise in +the open air; nor is there wanting that refreshing and pleasing +refrigeration of the air which is sometimes produced by rains in +other climates; for here the same effect is brought about by the fresh +breezes from the cooler regions to the southward. It is reasonable to +suppose, that this fortunate complexion of the heavens is principally +owing to the neighbourhood of those vast mountains called the Andes, +which, running nearly parallel to the shore, and at a small distance +from it, and extending immensely higher than any other mountains upon +the globe, form upon their sides and declivities a prodigious tract of +country, where, according to the different approaches to the summit, +all kinds of climates may be found at all seasons of the year. + +These mountains, by intercepting great part of the eastern winds, +which generally blow over the continent of South America, and by +cooling that part of the air which forces its way over their tops, and +by keeping besides a large portion of the atmosphere perpetually cool, +from its contiguity to the snows by which they are always covered, +and thus spreading the influence of their frozen crests to the +neighbouring coasts and seas of Peru, are doubtless the cause of the +temperature and equability which constantly prevail there. For, when +we had advanced beyond the equinoctial to the north, where these +mountains left us, and had nothing to screen us to the eastward but +the high lands on the Isthmus of Darien, which are mere mole-hills +compared to the Andes, we then found that we had totally changed +our climate in a short run; passing, in two or three days, from the +temperate air of Peru, to the sultry and burning atmosphere of the +West Indies. + +To return to our narration. On the 10th of November we were three +leagues south of the southern island, of _Lobos_, in lat. 6 deg. 27' +S. This is called _Lobos de la Mar_; and another, which is to the +northward of it, and resembles it so much in shape and appearance as +to be often mistaken for it, is called _Lobos de Tierra_.[3] We +were now drawing near the station that had been appointed for the +Gloucester, and fearing to miss her, we went under easy sail all +night. At day-break next morning, we saw a ship in shore and to +windward, which had passed us unseen in the night, and soon perceiving +that she was not the Gloucester, we got our tacks on board and gave +her chase. But as there was very little wind, so that neither we +nor the chase had made much way, the commodore ordered his barge +and pinnace, with the pinnace of the Tryal's prize, to be manned +and armed, and to pursue and board the chase. Lieutenant Brett, who +commanded our barge, came up with her first about nine o'clock, a.m. +and, running alongside, fired a volley of small shot between her +masts, just over the heads of her people, and then instantly boarded +with the greatest part of his men. But the enemy made no resistance, +being sufficiently intimidated by the dazzling of the cutlasses, and +the volley they had just received. Lieutenant Brett now made the sails +of the prize be trimmed, and bore down towards the commodore, taking +up the other two boats in his way. When within about four miles of us, +he put off in the barge, bringing with him a number of the prisoners, +who had given him some material intelligence, which he was desirous of +communicating to the commodore as soon as possible. On his arrival, we +learnt that the prize was called _Nuestra Senora del Carmin_, of +about 270 tons burden, commanded by Marcos Moreno, a native of Venice, +having on board forty-three mariners. She was deeply laden with +steel, iron, wax, pepper, cedar plank, snuff, _rosarios_, European +bale-goods, powder-blue, cinnamon, papal indulgences, and other kinds +of merchandize; and, though this cargo was of little value to us, in +our present circumstances, it was the most considerable capture we +had made, in respect to the Spaniards, as it amounted to upwards of +400,000 dollars, prime cost at Panama. This ship was bound from Panama +to Callao, and had stopped at Payta on her way, to take on board a +recruit of water and provisions, and had not left that place above +twenty-four hours when she fell into our hands. + +[Footnote 3: The Southern Lobos, or Lobos de la Mar, is in fact two +contiguous islands, N. and S. from each other, in lat. 6 deg. 57' S. and +long. 80 deg. 43' W. _Lobos de Tierra_, called also _Inner Lobos_, from +being nearer the land, lying in the same longitude, is in lat. 6 deg. 28' +S. There is still a third, or Northern Lobos, in lat. 5 deg. 10' S. long. +81 deg. W.] + +The important intelligence received by Mr Brett, which he was so +anxious to communicate to the commodore, he had learnt from one John +Williams, an Irishman, whom he found in the prize, and which was +confirmed by examination of the other prisoners. Williams was a +papist, who had worked his passage from Cadiz, and had travelled over +the whole of the kingdom of Mexico as a pedlar. He pretended that, +by this business, he had at one time cleared four or five thousand +dollars, but at length got entangled by the priests, who knew he had +money, and was stripped of every thing. At present he was all in rags, +having just got out of Payto gaol, where he had been confined for some +misdemeanour. He expressed great joy in thus meeting his countrymen, +and immediately informed them, that a vessel had come into Payta, only +a few days before, the master of which had informed the governor, that +he had been chased in the offing by a very large ship, which he was +persuaded, from her size and the colour of her sails, must be one of +the English squadron. This we conjectured to have been the Gloucester, +as we found afterwards was the case. On examining the master, and +being fully satisfied of his account, the governor sent off an express +with all expedition to the viceroy at Lima; and the royal officer +residing at Payta, apprehensive of a visit from the English, had been +busily employed, from his first hearing of this news, in removing the +king's treasure and his own to Piura, a town in the interior, about +fourteen leagues distant.[4] We learnt farther, from our prisoners, +that there was at this time a considerable sum of money in the +custom-house of Payta, belonging to some merchants of Lima, which +was intended to be shipped on board a vessel, then in the harbour of +Payta, and was preparing to sail for the bay of _Sansonnate_, on +the coast of Mexico, in order to purchase a part of the cargo of the +Manilla ship. + +[Footnote 4: San Migual de Piura is about 50 English miles E. by S. +from Payta, and nearly the same distance from the mouth of the Piura +river.--E.] + +As the vessel in which this money was to be shipped was reckoned +a prime sailer, and had just received a new coat of tallow on her +bottom, and might, in the opinion of the prisoners, be able to sail +the succeeding morning, we had little reason to expect that our ship, +which had been nearly two years in the water, could have any chance +to get up with her, if she were once allowed to escape from the port. +Wherefore, and as we were now discovered, and the whole coast would +soon be alarmed, and as our continuing to cruise any longer in +these parts would now answer no purpose, the commodore determined +to endeavour to take Payta by surprise, having in the first place +informed himself minutely of its strength and condition, by examining +the prisoners, and being fully satisfied that there was little danger +of losing many of our men in the attempt. + +This attack on Payta, besides the treasure it promised, and its being +the only enterprise in our power to undertake, had also several other +probable advantages. We might, in all probability, supply ourselves +with great quantities of live provisions, of which we were in great +want; and we should also have an opportunity of setting our prisoners +on shore, who were now very numerous, and made a greater consumption +of our food than our remaining stock was capable of furnishing much +longer. In all these lights, the attempt was most eligible, and +to which our situation, our necessities, and every prudential +consideration, strongly prompted. How it succeeded, and how far it +answered our expectations, shall be the subject, of the succeeding +section. + + + +SECTION XVI. + +_Capture of Payta, and Proceedings at that Place._ + +The town of Payta is in lat 50 deg. 12' S. [long. 81 deg. 15' W.] being +situated in a most barren soil, composed only of sand and slate. It +is of small extent, being about 275 yards in length along the shore +of the bay, and 130 yards in breadth, containing less than two hundred +families. The houses are only ground floors, their walls composed of +split canes and mud, and the roofs thatched with leaves. Though thus +extremely slight, these edifices are abundantly sufficient for a +climate where rain is considered as a prodigy, and is not seen in many +years: Insomuch that, a small quantity of rain falling in the year +1728, is said to have ruined a great number of buildings, which +mouldered away, and melted as it were before it. The inhabitants are +chiefly Indians and black slaves, or of mixed breed, the whites +being very few. The port of Payta, though little more than a bay, +is reckoned the best on this coast, and is indeed a very secure and +commodious anchorage, and is frequented by all vessels coming from the +north, as here only the ships from Acapulco, Sonsonnate, Realejo, +and Panama, can touch and refresh in their passage to Callao; and the +length of these voyages, the wind for the greatest part of the year +being full against them, renders it indispensably necessary for them +to call in here for a recruit of fresh water. Payta itself, however, +is situated in so parched a spot, that it does not furnish a drop +of fresh water, neither any kind of vegetables or other provisions, +except fish and a few goats. But, from an Indian town named Colan, two +or three leagues to the northward, water, maize, vegetables, fowls, +and other provisions, are conveyed to Payta on _balsas_ or floats, +for the supply of ships which touch there; and cattle are sometimes +brought from Piura, a town about thirty miles up the country. The +water brought from Colan is whitish and of a disagreeable appearance, +but is said to be very wholesome; for it is pretended by the +inhabitants that it runs through large tracks overgrown with +sarsaparilla, with which it is sensibly impregnated. Besides +furnishing the trading ships bound from the north for Callao with +water and other necessary refreshments this port of Payta is the +usual place where passengers from Acapulco and Panama, bound to Lima, +disembark; as the voyage from hence to Callao, the port of Lima, is +two hundred leagues, and is extremely tedious and fatiguing, owing to +the wind being almost always contrary; whereas there is a tolerably +good road by land, running nearly parallel to the coast, with many +stations and villages for the accommodation of travellers. + +Payta is merely an open town, unprovided with any defence, except +a small fort or redoubt near the shore of the bay. It was of much +consequence to us to be well informed of the fabric and strength of +this fort; which, we learnt from our prisoners, had eight pieces of +cannon, but neither ditch nor outwork, being merely surrounded by a +plain brick wall; and that the garrison consisted of one weak company, +though the town might possibly be able to arm three hundred men. +Having informed himself of the strength of the place, the commodore +determined upon making an attempt for its capture that very night, +the 12th November. We were then about twelve leagues from shore; a +sufficient distance to prevent being discovered, yet not so far but +that, by making all the sail we could carry; we might arrive in the +bay long before day-break. The commodore considered, however, that +this would be an improper manner of proceeding, as our ships, being +large bodies, might easily be seen at a distance, even in the night, +and might alarm the inhabitants, so as to give them an opportunity of +removing their most valuable effects. He resolved therefore, as the +strength of the place did not require the employment of our whole +force, to make the attempt with the boats only, ordering our +eighteen-oared barge, with our own and the Tryal's pinnaces, on this +service. Fifty-eight men, well furnished with arms and ammunition, +were picked out to man them, and the command of the expedition +was entrusted to Lieutenant Brett, to whom the commodore gave the +necessary orders and instructions. + +The better to prevent the disappointment and confusion which might +arise in the darkness of the night, and from the ignorance of our +people of the streets and passages of the place, two of the Spanish +pilots were appointed to attend Mr Brett, to conduct him to the most +convenient landing-place, and afterwards to be his guides on shore. +Likewise, that we might have the greater security for their fidelity +on this occasion, the commodore publicly assured all our prisoners, +that they should be set on shore and released at this place, provided +the pilots acted faithfully: But, in case of any misconduct or +treachery, the pilots were threatened with being instantly shot, and +all the rest were assured of being carried prisoners to England. Thus +the prisoners were themselves interested in our success, and we had no +reason to suspect our guides of negligence or perfidy. It is worthy +of remark, on this occasion, as a singular circumstance, that one +of these pilots, as we afterwards learnt, had been taken by Captain +Clipperton above twenty years before, and had then been obliged to +guide Captain Clipperton and his people to the surprizal of Truxillo, +a town to the southward of Payta; where, however, he contrived to +alarm and save his countrymen, though the place was carried and +pillaged. It is certainly an extraordinary incident, that the only two +attempts on shore, and at so long an interval, should have been +guided by the same person, a prisoner both times, and forced upon, the +service contrary to his inclination. + +During our preparation, the ships continued to stand for the port with +all the sail they could carry, secure that we were still at too great +a distance to be seen. About ten at night, being then within five +leagues of Payta, Lieutenant Brett put off with the boats under his +command, and arrived at the mouth of the bay undiscovered. He had no +sooner entered the bay, than some of the people in a ship riding there +at anchor perceived him, and getting instantly into their boat, rowed +towards the fort, shouting and crying, _The English! the English +dogs!_ By this the whole town was suddenly alarmed, and our people +soon observed several lights hurrying backwards and forwards in the +fort, and other indications of the inhabitants being all in motion. +On this, Mr Brett encouraged his men to pull briskly, that they might +give the enemy as little time as possible to prepare for defence. Yet, +before our boats could reach the shore, the people in the fort had +got some of their cannons ready, and pointed them towards the +landing-place; and though, in the darkness of the night, chance may +be supposed to have had a greater share in their direction than skill, +yet the first shot passed extremely near one of our boats, whistling +just over the heads of the crew. This made our people redouble their +efforts, so that they had reached the shore, and were in part landed, +by the time the second shot was fired. + +As soon as our men were landed, they were conducted by one of the +pilots to the entrance of a narrow street, not above fifty yards from +the beach, where they were covered from the fire of the fort; and +being here formed as well as the shortness of the time would allow, +they marched immediately for the parade, a large square at the other +end of this street, on one side of which stood the fort, while the +governor's house formed another side of the same square. In this +march, though performed with tolerable regularity, the shouts and +clamours of nearly threescore sailors, who had been so long confined +on ship board, and who were now for the first time on shore of an +enemy's country, joyous as seamen always are when they land, and +animated on the present occasion with the hopes of immense pillage, +joined with the noise of their drums, and favoured by the night, had +augmented their numbers, in the opinion of the astonished enemy, to +at least three hundred; by which estimation, the inhabitants were so +greatly intimidated, that they were infinitely more solicitous about +the means of flight than of resistance. Hence, though upon entering +the parade, our people received a volley from the merchants to whom +the treasure then in the town belonged, who were ranged in a gallery +that went round the governor's house, yet that post was immediately +abandoned on the first fire made by our people, who were thereby left +in quiet possession of the parade. + +Mr Brett now divided his men into two parties, ordering one of them to +surround the governor's house, and if possible to secure the governor, +while he went himself at the head of the other party, with the +intention of forcing possession of the fort. But the enemy abandoned +it on his approach, making their escape over the walls, and he entered +it without opposition. Thus the place was mastered in less than a +quarter of an hour after landing, and with no other loss on our side +than one man killed and two wounded. One of these was the Spanish +pilot of the Teresa, who received a slight bruise by a ball, which +grazed his wrist. The honourable Mr Keppell, son to the Earl of +Albemarle, had on this occasion a narrow escape. He wore a jockey-cap, +one side of the peak of which was shaved off by a ball, close to his +temple, yet did him no other injury. + +Having thus far happily succeeded, Mr Brett placed a guard at the +fort, and another in the governor's house, and fixed centinels at all +the avenues of the town, both to prevent any surprise from the enemy, +and to secure the effects in the place from being embezzled. His next +care was to seize upon the custom-house, in which the treasure was +lodged, and to examine if any of the inhabitants remained in the town, +that he might know what farther precautions were necessary. He soon +found that the numbers remaining were no ways formidable; for by far +the greatest part of them, being in bed when the place was surprised, +had run away with so much precipitation, that they had not taken +time to put on their clothes. The governor was not the last to secure +himself in this general rout; for he fled betimes half-naked, leaving +his wife behind, a young lady of about seventeen, to whom he had +only been married three or four days; yet she also was carried off +half-naked, by a couple of centinels, just as our detachment, ordered +to invest the house, arrived for that purpose. This escape of +the governor was an unpleasant circumstance, as the commodore had +particularly recommended to Mr Brett to secure him if possible, as by +that means he might have treated for the ransom of the place; but his +alacrity in flight rendered this impracticable. The few inhabitants +who remained were confined in one of the churches under a guard, +except some stout negroes, who were employed the remaining part of +the night in carrying the treasure, from the custom-house and other +places, to the fort, each party of them being attended by a file +of musketeers. This transportation of the treasure was the chief +employment of Mr Brett's people after getting possession of the +place; yet the sailors, while thus busied, could not be prevented from +entering the houses in their way, in search of private pillage; when +the first things that occurred to them, were the clothes left by the +Spaniards, and which were mostly embroidered or laced, according to +the fashion of the country. Our people eagerly seized these glittering +dresses, and put them on over their own dirty trowsers and jackets, +not forgetting the tye or bag-wigs, and laced hats, which were +generally found along with the clothes. When this had once begun, +there was no possibility of preventing the whole detachment from +imitating the example; but those who came latest into the fashion, not +finding men's clothes sufficient to equip them, were forced to take +up with women's gowns and petticoats, which, provided these were fine +enough, they made no scruple of putting on and blending with their own +greasy dress: So that, when a party of them first made they appearance +in that guise before Mr Brett, he was extremely surprised at their +grotesque exhibition, and could hardly believe they were his own men. + +While these transactions were going on at Payta, we lay-to till one +in the morning, from the time when our boats pushed off; and then, +supposing the detachment to be near landing, we went on under easy +sail for the bay. This we began to open about seven a.m. of the 13th, +and soon after had a view of the town. Though we had no reason to +doubt the success of the enterprise, yet we saw with much joy an +infallible sign of its being effected, as, by means of our telescope, +we could see the English flag hoisted on the flag-staff of the fort. +We plied into the bay with as much expedition as the wind, which then +blew from the shore, would, allow; and at eleven a.m. the Tryal's +pinnace came on board us, laden with dollars and church plate, when +the officer who commanded her gave an account of the transactions +of the preceding night. About two p.m. we anchored in ten and a half +fathoms, about a mile and half from the town, and were consequently +near enough to have direct intercourse; with the shore. + +Mr Brett had hitherto gone on, collecting and removing the treasure, +without interruption; but the enemy had now rendezvoused from all +parts of the country, on a hill at the back of the town, where they +made no inconsiderable appearance; as, among the rest of their force, +there were two hundred horse, seemingly well armed and mounted, +and, as we conceived, properly trained and regimented, as they were +furnished with trumpets, drums, and standards. These troops paraded +about the hill with much ostentation, sounding their military music; +and, as our small force on shore was by this time known to them, +practising every art to intimidate us, in hopes we might be induced, +by our fears of them, to abandon the place before completing its +pillage. We were not, however so ignorant as to believe that this body +of horse, which seemed to be what they chiefly depended on, would dare +to venture themselves among the streets and houses, even had they been +three times more numerous; and we went on calmly, as long as +day-light lasted, in sending off the treasure, and carrying on board +refreshments, such as hogs, poultry, and the like, which we found in +great abundance. At night, to prevent surprise, the commodore sent a +reinforcement on shore, who were posted in all the avenues leading to +the parade; and, for farther security, all the streets were traversed +with barricades six feet high. But the enemy continued quiet all +night, and at day-break we resumed our labour, in loading and sending +off the boats. + +We were now thoroughly convinced of what consequence it would have +been, had fortune seconded the prudent views of the commodore, by +enabling us to have secured the governor. For we found many warehouses +full of valuable effects, which were quite useless to us in our +present circumstances, as we could not find room for them on board. +But, had the governor been in our power, he would have treated, in all +probability, for the ransom of this merchandize, which would have +been extremely advantageous, both for him and us. Whereas, he being +at liberty, and having collected all the force of the country for many +leagues around, and having even got a body of militia from Piura, he +was so elated by his numbers, and so fond of his new military command, +that he did not seem to care about the fate of his government. +Insomuch that, although our commodore sent several messages to him, +by some of the inhabitants who were made prisoners, offering to enter +into treaty for the ransom of the town and goods, even giving +an intimation that we should be far from insisting on a rigorous +equivalent, and might perhaps be satisfied with some live cattle +and other necessaries for the use of the squadron, yet the governor +despised all these reiterated overtures, and did not deign to give +the slightest answer, though repeatedly threatened, if he would not +condescend to treat, that we would set the town and all the warehouses +on fire. + +On the second day of our possessing the place, several negro slaves +deserted from the enemy on the hill, and voluntarily entered into our +service, one of them being well known to a gentleman on board, who +remembered to have seen him formerly at Panama. We now learnt that the +Spaniards, without the town, were in extreme distress for water; for +many of their slaves crept into town by stealth, and carried away +several jars of water to their masters on the hill; and, though some +of these were seized in the attempt, yet their thirst was so pressing, +that they continued the practice as long as we remained in possession +of the place. In the course of this second day, we were assured, both +by deserters and prisoners, that the Spaniards were now increased to +a formidable number, and had resolved to storm the town and fort next +night, under the command of one Gordon, a Scots papist, and captain +of a ship in these seas. We continued, however, to prosecute our work, +without hurry, loading and sending off the boats as long as we had +light; and at night, a reinforcement was again sent on shore by the +commodore, and Mr Brett doubled his guards at all the barricades, all +his posts being connected, by means of centinels placed within call +of each other, and the whole visited by frequent rounds, attended by a +drum. These marks of our vigilance and readiness to receive the enemy, +which they could not be ignorant of, cooled their resolution, and made +them forget the vaunts of the preceding day; so that we passed this +second night with as little molestation as we had done the first. + +We had finished sending the treasure on board the evening before, so +that the third morning, being the 15th of November, the boats were +employed in carrying off the most valuable part of the effects from +the town. As the commodore proposed to sail in the afternoon, he this +day about ten o'clock, pursuant to his promise, sent all his prisoners +on shore, to the number of eighty-eight, giving orders to Lieutenant +Brett to have them secured in one of the churches under a strict +guard, till he and his men were ready to embark. Mr Brett was also +ordered to set the whole town on fire, except the two churches, which +fortunately stood at some distance from the houses, after which he was +to abandon the place and return on board. Mr Brett punctually complied +with these orders, and immediately distributed pitch, tar, and other +combustibles, of which there was great abundance to be had, into +various houses in the several streets of the town, so that as the +place was to be fired in many different quarters at the same time, the +destruction might be the more violent and sudden, and the enemy +might not be able to extinguish it after his departure. All these +preparations being made, Mr Brett made the cannon in the fort be +spiked; and setting fire to the houses most to windward, he collected +his men and marched them to the beach, where the boats waited to take +them off. + +As that part of the beach where he intended to embark was an open +place without the town, near the churches, his retreat was perceived +by the Spaniards on the hill, on which they resolved to endeavour +to precipitate his departure, in order to have a pretext for +future boasting. For this purpose, a small squadron of their horse, +consisting of about sixty, selected probably for this service, marched +down the hill with much seeming resolution, as if they had proposed +to have charged our men now on the open beach without any advantage +or situation. But no sooner did Mr Brett halt his men and face about, +than they stopped their career, and did not venture to advance any +farther. On arriving at the boats, and being quite ready to embark, +our people were detained some time by missing one of their number; +and, after some considerable delay, being unable to learn where he +was left, or by what accident he was detained, they resolved to depart +without him. Just when the last man was embarked, and the boats were +going to shove off they heard him calling to be taken in; at which +time the town was so thoroughly on fire, and the smoke so covered the +beach, that they could hardly discern him, though he was quite well +heard. Mr Brett, however, instantly ordered one of the boats to his +relief, which found him up to the chin in the water, for he had waded +as far as he durst, being extremely terrified at the idea of falling +into the hands of the enemy, enraged as they doubtless were at the +pillage and destruction of their town. On enquiring into the cause of +his staying behind the rest, he acknowledged having taken too large a +dose of brandy, which had thrown him into so profound a sleep that he +did not wake till the fire began to scorch him. At first opening his +eyes, he was amazed to see all the houses in a blaze on one side, and +several Spaniards and Indians not far from him on the other. The great +and sudden terror instantly restored him to sobriety, and gave him +sufficient presence of mind to push through the thickest of the smoke, +as the most likely means of escaping from the enemy; and, making +the best of his way to the beach, he ran into the water as far as he +durst, for he could not swim, before he ventured to look back. + +It was certainly much to the honour of our people, that though there +were great quantities of wine and spirits found in the town, yet this +was the only one who was known to have so far neglected his duty as to +get drunk: indeed, their whole behaviour, while on shore, was greatly +more regular than could well have been expected, from sailors who had +been so long confined on board ship; and, though much of this good +conduct must doubtless be imputed to the diligence of the officers, +and to the excellent discipline they had been constantly inured to +under the commodore, it was certainly not a little to the reputation +of the men, that they should so generally have refrained from +indulging in these intoxicating liquors, which they found in abundance +in every warehouse. + +There was another singular incident occurred here which merits being +recorded. An Englishman, who had formerly wrought as a ship-carpenter +in Portsmouth yard, had left his country and entered into the +Spanish service, and was at this time employed by them at the port of +Guayaquil; and, as it was well known to his friends in England that he +was in that part of the world, they had put letters for him on board +the Centurion. This man happened at the present time to be among the +Spaniards who had retired to the hill of Payta; and ambitious, as it +would seem, of acquiring reputation among his new masters, he came +down unarmed to one of our centinels, who was posted at some distance +from the fort towards the enemy, pretending that he was desirous of +surrendering himself and returning to the service of his country. Our +centinel had a cocked pistol in his hand, but, deceived by the fair +speeches of the carpenter, he allowed him very imprudently to come +much too near him, so that, watching his opportunity, the carpenter +wrenched the pistol from his hand, and ran away with it up the +hill. By this time two others of our men, who had seen the carpenter +advance, and suspected his intentions, were making towards him, and +now pursued him, but he got up the hill before they could reach him, +and then turned round and fired the pistol. His pursuers immediately +returned the fire, though at a great distance, and the crest of the +hill covered him as soon as they had fired, so that they took it for +granted they had missed him: yet we afterwards learnt that he was shot +through the body, and had fallen dead the very next step he took after +firing his pistol and getting out of sight. The centinel, too, whom +he had so grossly imposed upon, did not escape unpunished; as he was +ordered to be severely whipt, for allowing himself to be so shamefully +surprised on his post, and giving an example of carelessness, which, +if followed in other instances, might have proved fatal to us all. + +By the time our people had taken their comrade out of the water, and +were making the best of their way to the squadron, the flames had got +possession of every part of the town with so powerful a hold, by means +of the combustibles laid for the purpose, and by the slightness of the +materials of the houses, and their aptitude to take fire, that it was +now quite apparent no efforts of the enemy, who now flocked down in +great numbers, could possibly stop its ravages, or prevent the entire +destruction of the place and all the merchandize it contained. Our +detachment under Lieutenant Brett safely joined the squadron, and the +commodore prepared to leave the bay that same evening. On our first +arrival there were six vessels belonging to the enemy at anchor, one +of which was the ship, that was to have sailed with the treasure to +the coast of Mexico; and, as she was supposed to be a good sailer, +the commodore resolved to take her along with us. The others were +two snows, a bark, and two row gallies of thirty-six oars each. These +last, as we afterwards learnt, with many others of the same kind built +at different ports, were intended to prevent us from landing in the +neighbourhood of Callao; as the Spaniards, on the first intelligence +of our squadron being destined for the South seas, and learning its +force, expected that we would attempt the city of Lima. Having no +occasion for these five vessels, the commodore ordered all their masts +to be cut by the board at our first arrival; and on leaving the place, +they were all towed out into deep water, scuttled, and sunk. The +command of the remaining ship, called the Solidad, was given to Mr +Hughes, lieutenant of the Tryal, with a crew of ten men. Towards +midnight the squadron weighed anchor and sailed out of the bay, +now consisting of six ships, the Centurion, Tryal's prize, Carmelo, +Teresa, Carmin, and Solidad. + +Before proceeding to narrate our subsequent transactions, it may be +proper to give a succinct account of the booty we acquired at Payta, +and the losses there sustained by the Spaniards. It has been already +observed, that there were great quantities of valuable effects at this +place, but most of them were of a nature that we could neither dispose +of nor carry away, and their value, therefore, can only be guessed at. +In their representations to the court of Madrid, as we were afterward +assured, the Spaniards estimated their loss at a million and a half of +dollars; and as no small portion of the goods we there burnt were +of the richest and most expensive kinds, as broad cloths, silks, +cambrics, velvets, and the like, perhaps that valuation might be +sufficiently moderate. The acquisition we made, though inconsiderable +in comparison to what we destroyed, was yet far from despicable, as, +in wrought plate, dollars, and other coin, there was to the value of +more than 30,000l. sterling, besides several rings, bracelets, and +other jewels, the value of which could not then be ascertained; +and besides the very great plunder which became the property of the +immediate captors. + +It has been already observed, that all the prisoners we had taken +in our preceding prizes were here discharged. Among these were some +persons of considerable distinction, one of them a youth of +seventeen, son to the vice-president of Chili. As the barbarity of the +buccaneers, and the artful uses the Spanish ecclesiastics had made of +that circumstance, had filled the natives of these countries with +the most horrible notions of the English cruelty, we always found our +prisoners, on first coming aboard, extremely dejected, and under great +horror and anxiety. This youth particularly, having never been before +from home, lamented his captivity in the most moving terms, regretting +the loss of his parents, his brothers, his sisters, and his native +country; all of which he believed he should never see more, conceiving +that he was devoted for the remainder of his life to an abject and +cruel servitude. Indeed, all the Spaniards who came into our power, +seemed to entertain similarly desponding notions of their condition. +The commodore constantly exerted his utmost endeavours to efface these +terrifying impressions, always having as many of the principal people +among them as there was room for to dine at his table; and +giving strict charges that they should at all times, and in every +circumstance, be treated with the utmost decency and humanity. In +spite of this precaution, they hardly ever parted with their fears +for the first few days, suspecting the gentleness of their usage to be +only preparatory to some after calamity; but at length, convinced of +our sincerity, they grew perfectly easy and cheerful, so that it +was often doubtful whether they considered their captivity as a +misfortune. The before-mentioned youth, who was near two months on +board the Centurion, had at last so completely conquered his +original melancholy surmises, and had taken such an affection for +the commodore, and seemed so much pleased with the manner of life +on board, so different from all he had ever seen before, that I much +question, if it had been in his choice, if he would not have preferred +a voyage to England in the Centurion to going on shore at Payta, +though he had here liberty of returning to his friends and country. + +This generous conduct of our commodore to his prisoners, which he +continued without interruption or deviation, gave them all the highest +idea of his humanity and benevolence; and, as mankind are ever fond +of forming general opinions, induced them to entertain very favourable +thoughts of the whole English nation. But, whatever opinion they might +be disposed to form of his character before the capture of the Teresa, +their veneration for him was prodigiously increased by his conduct +towards the women who were taken in that vessel, as formerly +mentioned. For the circumstance of leaving them in possession of their +own apartments, the strict orders he issued to prevent any of our +people from approaching them, and his permitting the pilot to remain +with them as their guardian, were measures that seemed so different +from what they expected in an enemy and a heretic, that, although the +Spanish prisoners had themselves experienced his beneficence, they +were astonished at this particular instance; and the more so, that all +this was done without his ever having seen the women, though the two +daughters were both reckoned handsome, and the youngest was celebrated +for her uncommon beauty. The women were themselves so sensible of the +obligations they owed him for the attention and delicacy with which +he had protected them, that they refused to go on shore at Payta +till permitted to wait upon him, that they might in person return him +thanks. Indeed all the prisoners left us with the strongest assurances +of their grateful remembrance of his uncommon kindness. A Jesuit, +in particular, of some distinction, expressed himself with great +thankfulness for the civilities he and his countrymen had experienced +while on board, declaring that he should consider it his duty to do +Mr Anson justice at all times; adding, that his usage of the men +prisoners was such as could never be forgotten, and merited the +highest acknowledgments; but his behaviour to the women was so +extraordinary and honourable, that he doubted all the regard due to +his own ecclesiastical character would be scarcely sufficient to make +it believed. Indeed, we were afterwards informed that he and the rest +of the prisoners had not been silent on this topic, but had given the +highest commendations of our commodore, both at Lima and other places; +and the Jesuit, as we were told, had interpreted in his favour, in a +lax and hypothetical sense, that article of his church which asserts +the impossibility of heretics being saved. + +Let it not be imagined, that the impression received by the Spaniards +to our advantage on the present occasion was a matter of slight +import; for, not to mention several of our countrymen who had already +felt the good effects of these prepossessions, it may be observed, +that the good opinion of this nation is certainly of more consequence +to us than that of all the world besides. Not only as the commerce we +have formerly carried on with them, and perhaps may again hereafter, +is so extremely valuable, but also as its transacting so immediately +depends upon the honour and good faith of those who are entrusted with +its management. Even if no national conveniences were likely to flow +from this honourable conduct of our commodore, his own equity and good +dispositions would not the less have prevented him from the exercise +of tyranny and oppression on those whom the chance of war had put into +his hands. I shall only add, that, by his constant practice of this +humane and prudent conduct, he acquired a distinguished character +among the Spanish Creoles over all their settlements in America, so +that his name was universally mentioned with honour and applause by +most of the Spanish inhabitants of that vast empire. + + + +SECTION XVII. + +_Occurrences from our Departure from Payta to our Arrival at Quibo._ + +Setting sail from the road of Payta about midnight of the 16th +November, we stood to the westward, and next morning the commodore +caused the squadron to spread, on purpose to look out for the +Gloucester, as we drew near the station where Captain Mitchell had +been directed to cruise, and we hourly expected to get sight of him, +yet the whole day passed without seeing him. + +At this time a jealousy between those who had gone ashore to the +attack of Payta, and those who had continued on board, grew to such a +height, that the commodore became acquainted with it, and thought +it necessary to interpose his authority for its abatement. This was +occasioned by the plunder taken at Payta, which those who acted on +shore had appropriated to themselves, considering it as due to the +risks they had run, and the resolution they had shewn on that service. +But those who had remained on board, deemed this a very partial and +unjust procedure; urging, that they also would have preferred acting +on shore if it had been left to their choice; that their duty on +board was extremely fatiguing while their comrades were on shore; for, +besides the labour of the day, they were forced to remain all night +under arms to secure the prisoners, who were more numerous than +themselves, and of whom it was then necessary to be extremely +watchful, to prevent any attempts they might have planned at that +critical conjuncture. They insisted, also, that it was undeniably as +necessary to the success of the enterprize to have an adequate force +on board as on shore in its execution, and, therefore, that those who +remained on board could not be deprived of their share in the plunder, +without manifest injustice. These contests were carried on with great +heat on both sides; and though the plunder in question was a mere +trifle, in comparison with the treasure taken, in which there was no +doubt that those on board had an equal right, yet, as the obstinacy +of sailors is not always regulated by the importance of the matter in +dispute, the commodore thought it necessary to put a speedy stop to +this commotion. Accordingly, on the morning of the 17th, he ordered +all hands to assemble on the quarter-deck, when, addressing his +discourse to those who had been detached on shore, he highly commended +their gallant conduct, and thanked them for their services on that +occasion. He then represented to them the reasons that had been urged +by those who continued on board, for an equal distribution of the +plunder, telling them that he thought these reasons were conclusive, +and that the expectations of their comrades were justly founded; and +he insisted, therefore, that not only the men, but all the officers +also, who had been employed in the capture of Payta, should +immediately produce the whole of their plunder upon the quarter-deck, +and that it should be impartially divided among the whole crew, +proportionally to the rank and commission of each. To prevent those +who had been in possession of this plunder from murmuring at this +decision, and the consequent diminution of their shares, he added, +as an encouragement to those who might be afterwards employed on +like services, that he gave up his entire share, to be distributed +exclusively among those who had been detached to attack the place. +Thus this troublesome affair, which might perhaps have had mischievous +consequences if permitted to go on, was soon appeased by the prudence +of the commodore, to the general satisfaction of all. Some few, +indeed, whose selfish dispositions were uninfluenced by the justice of +this procedure, and who were incapable of discerning the equity of the +decision, were dissatisfied, as it tended to deprive them of what they +had once possessed. + +This important affair employed the best part of the day after leaving +Payta; and at night, having seen nothing of the Gloucester, the +commodore made the squadron bring to, that we might not pass her in +the dark. Next morning we again spread on the look-out, and saw a sail +at 10 a.m. to which we gave chase, and which we came near enough by +two p.m. to observe to be the Gloucester, having a small vessel in +tow. We joined her in about an hour after, when we learnt that Captain +Mitchell had only taken two small prizes during the whole of his +cruise. One was a small snow, the cargo of which consisted chiefly +of wine, brandy, and olives in jars, with about 7000l. in specie. The +other was a large boat or launch, taken near shore by the Gloucester's +barge. The prisoners on board this boat alleged that they were very +poor, and that their loading consisted only of cotton; though the +circumstances under which they were surprized, seemed to insinuate +that they were more opulent than they pretended; for they were found +at dinner on a pigeon-pye, served up in silver dishes. The officer who +commanded the barge, having opened several of the jars in the prize, +to satisfy his curiosity, found nothing as he thought but cotton, +which inclined him to believe the account given by the prisoners; but +when these jars were examined more strictly in the Gloucester, they +were agreeably surprised to find the whole a very extraordinary piece +of deception; as in every jar there was a considerable quantity of +double doubloons and dollars, artfully concealed among the cotton, to +the amount in all of near 12,000l. This treasure was going to Payta, +and belonged to the same merchants who were proprietors of most of +the money we had taken there; so that, if this boat had escaped the +Gloucester, her cargo would probably have fallen into our hands. +Besides these two prizes, the Gloucester had been in sight of two or +three other ships, which had escaped them; and one of them, from some +of our intelligence, we had reason to believe was of immense value. + +It was now resolved to stand to the northwards, and to make the best +of our way either for Cape St Lucas, in California, or Cape Corientes +on the coast of Mexico. When at Juan Fernandez, the commodore had +resolved to touch somewhere in the neighbourhood of Panama, to +endeavour to get some correspondence overland with the fleet under +Admiral Vernon. For, on our departure from England, we left a fleet +at Portsmouth intended for the West Indies, to be employed there in +an expedition against some of the Spanish settlements. Taking for +granted, therefore, that this enterprise had succeeded, and that +Portobello might then be garrisoned by British troops, the commodore +conceived he might easily procure an intercourse with our countrymen, +on the other side of the isthmus of Darien, either by means of +the Indians, who are greatly disposed to favour us, or even by +the Spaniards themselves; some of whom might be induced, by proper +rewards, to carry on this correspondence; which, when once begun, +might be continued with little difficulty. By this means, Mr Anson +flattered himself that he might procure a reinforcement of men from +the other side, and that, by settling a prudent plan of co-operation +with our commanders in the West Indies, he might even have taken +Panama. This would have given the British nation the command of the +isthmus, by which we should in effect have become masters of all the +wealth of Peru, and should have held an equivalent in our hands +for any demand, however extraordinary, that might have been thought +advisable to make on either branch of the Bourbon family. + +Such were the magnificent projects which the commodore revolved in his +mind, when at the island of Juan Fernandez, notwithstanding the feeble +condition to which his force was then reduced; and, had the success +of the expedition to the West Indies been answerable to the general +expectation, these views had certainly been the most prudent that +could have been devised. But, on examining the papers found on board +the Carmelo, our first prize, it was then learnt, though I deferred +mentioning it till now, that the attempt on Carthagena had failed, and +that there was no probability of our fleet in the West Indies engaging +in any new enterprise that could at all facilitate this plan. Mr +Anson, therefore, had relinquished all hope of being reinforced across +the isthmus, and consequently had no inducement to proceed at present +for Panama, being incapable of assaulting that place; and there was +reason to believe there was now a general embargo over all the coast +of the South Sea. The only feasible measure that now remained, was to +steer as soon as possible for the southern parts of California, or the +adjacent coast of Mexico, and there to cruise for the Manilla galleon, +which was now known to be at sea on her voyage to Acapulco; and we had +no doubt of being able to get upon that station in sufficient time to +intercept her, as she does not usually arrive at Acapulco till +towards the middle of January, and, being now only about the middle of +November, we did not suppose our passage thither would cost us above +a month or six weeks, so that, in our opinion, we had nearly twice as +much time as was necessary. + +There was one business, however, which we knew must occasion some +delay, but which we hoped might be accomplished in four or five days. +This was to recruit our water; for the number of prisoners we had to +maintain, ever since we left Juan Fernandez, had so far exhausted our +stock, that it was impossible to think of venturing upon a passage to +the coast of Mexico, till we had procured a fresh supply; especially +as we had not found enough at Payta for our consumption while there. +It was for some time a matter of deliberation with the commodore, +where we might take in this necessary article; but, by consulting the +accounts of former navigators, and examining our prisoners, he at last +resolved for the island of Quibo, beyond the bay of Panama. There was +indeed a small island called _Cocos_, less out of our way than Quibo, +where some of the Buccaneers pretended to have found water: But none +of our prisoners knew any thing of that island, and it was thought too +hazardous to risk the safety of the squadron, by exposing ourselves to +the chance of not finding water at that place, on the mere authority +of these legendary writers, of whose misrepresentations and falsities +we had almost daily experience. Besides, we were not without hopes +that in going to Quibo some of the enemies ships bound to or from +Panama might fall into our hands, particularly such of them as were +put to sea, before they had intelligence of our squadron; we therefore +directed our course to the northward, being eight sail, and so +having the appearance of a very formidable fleet; and on the 19th +at day-break, we discovered Cape Blanco, bearing S.S.E. 1/2 E. seven +miles distant. This cape lies in the latitude of 4 deg. 15' south, and is +always made by ships bound either to windward or to leeward, so that +it is a most excellent station to cruise upon the enemy. As our last +prize, the Solidad, was far from answering the character given her of +a good sailer, and she and the Santa Teresa delayed us considerably, +the commodore ordered them to be cleared of every thing that might +prove useful to the rest of the ships, and then to be burnt. We then +proceeded in our course for Quibo, and, on the 22d in the morning, +saw the island of Plata bearing east, distant four leagues. One of our +prizes, which was ordered to stand close in, both to discover if there +were any ships between that island and the continent, and likewise to +look out for a stream of fresh water reported to be there, returned +without having seen any ship, or finding any water. At three in the +afternoon point Manta bore S.E. by E. seven miles distant; and there +being a town of the same name in the neighbourhood, Captain Mitchell +took this opportunity of sending away several of his prisoners +from the Gloucester in the Spanish launch. The boats were now daily +employed in distributing provisions on board the Tryal and other +prizes, to complete their stock for six months; and, that the +Centurion might be the better prepared to give the Manilla ship (one +of which we were told was of immense size) a warm reception, the +carpenters were ordered to fix eight stocks in the main and fore-tops +for the mounting of swivel guns. + +On the 25th we had a sight of the island of Gallo, bearing E.S.E. 1/2 +E. four leagues distant; from hence we crossed the bay of Panama with +a N.W. course, hoping that this would have carried us in a direct line +to the island of Quibo. But we afterwards found that wrought to have +stood more to the westward, for the winds in a short time began to +incline to that quarter, and made it difficult for us to gain the +island. And now, after passing the equinoctial on the 22d, leaving the +neighbourhood of the Cordilleras, and standing more and more towards +the isthmus, where the communication of the atmosphere to the eastward +and the westward was no longer interrupted, we found, in a few +days, an extraordinary alteration in the climate. Instead of uniform +temperature, we had, for several days together, close and sultry +weather, resembling what we had met with between the tropics on the +eastern side of America. We had besides frequent calms and heavy +rains, which we at first ascribed to the neighbourhood of the line, +where this kind of weather is found to prevail; but, observing that it +attended us to the latitude of seven degrees north, we were induced +to believe that the stormy season, or, as the Spaniards call it, the +Vandevals, was not yet over; though many positively assert, that it +begins in June, and is ended November. + +On the 27th Captain Mitchel's largest prize being cleared, was +scuttled, and set on fire, and as the remaining five ships were all +good sailers, so we never occasioned any delay to each other. Being +now in a rainy climate, which we had been long disused to, we found +it necessary to caulk the decks and sides of the Centurion, to prevent +the rain-water from running into her. + +On the 3d of December we had a view of the island of Quibo, the +east end then bearing N.N.W. four leagues distant, and the island of +Quicara W.N.W. at about the same distance. Here we struck ground with +sixty-five fathom of line, and found the bottom to consist of grey +sand, with black specks. When we got sight of the land, we found the +wind to hang westerly, and therefore thought it adviseable to stand +off till morning, as there are said to be some shoals in the entrance +of the channel. At six the next morning, point Mariato bore N.E. 1/2 +N. three or four leagues distant. In weathering this point, all the +squadron, except the Centurion, were very near it, and the Gloucester, +being the leewardmost ship, was forced to tack and stand to the +southward, so that we lost sight of her. At nine, the island Sebaco +bore N.W. by N. four leagues distant; but the wind still proving +unfavourable, we were obliged to ply on and off for the succeeding +twenty-four hours, and were frequently taken a-back. However, at +eleven the next morning the wind happily settling in the S.S.W. we +bore away for the S.S.E. end of the island, and about three in the +afternoon entered Canal Bueno, passing round a shoal which stretches +off about two miles from the south point of the island. This Canal +Bueno, or Good Channel, is at least six miles in breadth; and as we +had the wind large, we kept in a good depth of water, generally from +twenty-eight to thirty-three fathom, and came not within a mile and a +half distance of the breakers, though, in all probability, if it had +been necessary, we might have ventured much nearer without incurring +the least danger. At seven in the evening we came to an anchor in +thirty-three fathom, muddy ground; the south point of the island +bearing S.E. by E. a remarkable high part of the island W. by N. and +the island Sebaco E. by N. + + + +SECTION XVIII. + +_Our Proceedings at Quibo, with an Account of the Place._ + +The morning after our coming to an anchor, an officer was dispatched +to discover the watering-place; and, having found it, returned before +noon; then we sent the long-boat for a load of water, and at the same +time weighed and stood farther in with our ships. At two we came +again to an anchor in twenty-two fathom, with a bottom of rough gravel +intermixed with broken shells, the watering-place now bearing from us +N.W. 1/2 N. only three quarters of a mile distant. + +The island of Quibo is extremely convenient for wooding and watering, +for the trees grow close to the high-water mark, and a large rapid +stream of fresh water runs over the sandy beach into the sea; so that +we were little more than two days in laying in all the wood and water +we wanted. The whole island is of a very moderate height, excepting +one part. It consists of a continued wood spread over the whole +surface of the country, which preserves its verdure all the year +round. We found there abundance of cassia, and a few lime-trees. +It appeared singular to us, that, considering the climate and the +shelter, we should see no other birds there than parrots, parroquets, +and mackaws; of the last there were prodigious flights. Next to these +birds, the animals we found in most plenty were monkeys and guanos, +and these we frequently killed for food; for though there were many +herds of deer upon the place, yet the difficulty of penetrating the +woods prevented our coming near them, so that though we saw them +often, we killed only two during our stay. Our prisoners assured us +that this island abounded with tygers; we did once discover the print +of a tyger's paw upon the beach, but the tygers themselves we never +saw. The Spaniards, too, informed us that there was often found in the +woods a most mischievous serpent, called the Flying Snake, which they +said darted itself from the boughs of trees on either man or beast +that came within its reach, and whose sting they believed to be +inevitable death. Besides these mischievous land-animals, the +sea hereabouts is infested with great numbers of alligators of an +extraordinary size; and we often observed a large kind of flat fish +jumping a considerable height out of the water, which we supposed to +be the fish that is said frequently to destroy the pearl-divers, by +clasping them in its fins as they rise from the bottom; and we were +told that the divers, for their security, are now always armed with a +sharp knife, which, when they are entangled, they stick into the belly +of the fish, and thereby disengage themselves from its embraces. + +Whilst the ship continued here at anchor, the commodore, attended by +some of his officers, went in a boat to examine a bay which lay to +the northward; and afterwards ranged all along the eastern side of +the island. In the places where they put on shore in the course of his +expedition, they generally found the soil to be extremely rich, and +met with great plenty of excellent water. In particular, near the +N.E. point of the island, they discovered a natural cascade, which +surpassed, as they conceived, every thing of this kind, which human +art or industry hath hitherto produced. It was a river of transparent +water, about forty yards wide, which ran down a declivity of near +a hundred and fifty yards in length. The channel it ran in was very +irregular; for it was entirely formed of rock, both its sides and +bottom being made up of large detached blocks; and by these the course +of the water was frequently interrupted: For in some places it ran +sloping with a rapid but uniform motion, while in other parts it +tumbled over the ledges of rocks with a perpendicular descent. All the +neighbourhood of this stream was a fine wood; and even the huge +masses of rock which overhung the water, and which, by their various +projections, formed the inequalities of the channel, were covered with +lofty forest trees. Whilst the commodore, and those with him, were +attentively viewing this place, and remarking the different blendings +of the water, the rocks, and the wood, there came in sight (as it +were with an intent still to heighten and animate the prospect) a +prodigious flight of mackaws, which hovering over this spot, and often +wheeling and playing on the wing about it, afforded a most brilliant +appearance, by the glittering of the sun on their variegated +plumage; so that some of the spectators cannot refrain from a kind of +transport, when they recount the complicated beauties which occurred +in this extraordinary scene. + +In this expedition, along the eastern side of the island, though they +met with no inhabitants, yet they saw many huts upon the shore, and +great heaps of shells of fine mother-of-pearl scattered up and down +in different places: These were the remains left by the pearl-fishers +from Panama, who often frequent this place in the summer season; for +the pearl oysters, which are to be met with every where in the bay of +Panama, are so plenty at Quibo, that by advancing a very little way +into the sea, you might stoop down and reach them from the bottom. +They are usually very large, but extremely tough and unpalatable. + +The oysters most productive of pearls, are those found in considerable +depths; for, though what are taken up by wading are of the same +species, yet the pearls found in them are rare and very small. It is +said, too, that the pearl partakes in some degree of the quality of +the bottom on which the oyster is found; so that if the bottom be +muddy, the pearl is dark and ill-coloured. + +The diving for oysters is a work performed by negro slaves, of whom +the inhabitants of Panama and the neighbouring coast formerly kept +great numbers, carefully trained to this business. These are not +esteemed complete divers, till they are able to protract their stay +under water so long, that the blood gushes out from their nose, mouth, +and ears. It is the tradition of the country, that when this accident +has once befallen them, they dive for the future with much greater +facility than before; that no inconvenience attends it, the bleeding +generally stopping of itself, and that there is no probability of +their being subject to it a second time.[1] + +[Footnote 1: The intelligent reader will demand more than the +_tradition of the country_ to induce his belief, that this diving +business is not most certainly destructive of the miserable wretches +who are compelled to pursue it. The divers in the Persian gulph, where +it is well known the pearl fishery is carried on by individuals on +their own account, "seldom live to a great age," (says Mr Morier in +the account of his Journey through Persia.) "Their bodies break out +in sores, and their eyes become very weak and blood-shot. They are +restricted to a certain regimen; and to food composed of dates and +other light ingredients." It cannot be imagined that the negroes of +Panama fare better in this hazardous occupation. But to the expression +of any solicitude as to _their_ blood, it is very probable the answer +might be something in the style of one of Juvenal's worthy ladies: + + ----ita servus homo est? + Hoc volo, sic jubeo, sit pro ratione voluntas.--P.] + +The sea at this place furnished us with a dainty, in the greatest +plenty and perfection, viz. the turtle. There are reckoned four +species of turtle: the trunk-turtle, the loggerhead, the hawksbill, +and the green turtle. The two first are rank and unwholesome; the +hawksbill (which furnishes the tortoise-shell) is but indifferent +food, though better than the other two; but the green turtle is +esteemed, by the greatest part of those who are acquainted with +its taste, as the most delicious of eatables; and that it is a most +wholesome food, we were amply convinced by our own experience: For we +fed on this for near four months, and consequently had it been in any +degree noxious, its ill effects could not possibly have escaped us. At +this island we took what quantity we pleased with great facility; for, +as they are an amphibious animal, and get on shore to lay their eggs, +which they generally deposit in a large hole in the sand, just above +the high-water mark, covering them up, and leaving them to be hatched +by the heat of the sun, we usually dispersed several of our men along +the beach, whose business it was to turn them on their backs when +they came to land; and the turtle being thereby prevented from getting +away, we carried them off at our leisure. These proved of great +service both in lengthening out our store of provision, and in +heartening the whole crew with an almost constant supply of fresh and +palatable food; for the turtle being large, generally weighing about +200 lb. weight each, what we took with us lasted us near a month, and +by that time we met with a fresh recruit on the coast of Mexico, where +we often saw them in the heat of the day floating in great numbers +on the surface of the water fast asleep. Our mode of taking them was +this; we sent out our boat with a man in the bow, who was a dexterous +diver; when the boat came within a few yards of the turtle, the +diver plunged into the water, and took care to rise close upon it; on +seizing the shell near the tail, and pressing down the hinder parts, +the turtle awakened, and began to strike with its claws, which motion +supported both it and the diver, till the boat came up and took them +in. By this management we never wanted turtle for the succeeding four +months in which we continued at sea; and though we had been three +months on board, without putting our foot on shore, except for the +few days we stayed at the island of Quibo, and those employed in the +attack of Payta, yet, in the whole seven months, from our leaving Juan +Fernandez to our anchoring in the harbour of Chequetan, we buried no +more in the whole squadron than two men; a most incontestable proof +that the turtle on which we fed for the last four months of this term, +was at least innocent, if not something more. It appears wonderful, +therefore, that a species of food so very palatable and salubrious, +and so much abounding in those parts, should be proscribed by the +Spaniards as unwholesome, and little less than poisonous. Perhaps the +strange appearance of this animal may have been the foundation of this +ridiculous aversion, which is strongly rooted in all the inhabitants +of that coast, and of which we had many instances in the course of +this navigation. Some Indian and negro slaves we had taken in our +prizes, and continued on board to assist in navigating our ships, were +astonished at our feeding on turtle, and seemed fully persuaded that +it would soon destroy us; but finding that none of us died, nor even +suffered in our health by a continuation of this diet, they at last +got so far the better of their aversion, as to be persuaded to taste +it, to which the absence of all other kinds of fresh provisions might +not a little contribute. However, it was with great reluctance, and +very sparingly, that they began to eat it: But the relish improving +upon them by degrees, they at last grew extremely fond of it, +preferred it to every other kind of food, and often felicitated each +other on the happy experience they had acquired, and the delicious and +plentiful repasts it would be always in their power to procure, when +they should return to their country. Those who are acquainted with the +manner of life of these unhappy wretches, need not be told, that next +to large draughts of spirituous liquors, plenty of tolerable food is +the greatest joy they know; and that the discovering a method which +would supply them with what quantity they pleased of a kind more +luxurious to the palate than any their haughty lords and masters +could indulge in, was a circumstance which they considered as the most +fortunate that could befal them. + +In three days time we had completed our business at this place, and +were extremely impatient to put to sea, that we might arrive time +enough on the coast of Mexico to intercept the Manilla galleon. The +wind being contrary detained us a night, and the next day when we got +into the offing, (which we did through the same channel by which we +entered) we were obliged to keep hovering about the island, in hopes +of getting sight of the Gloucester. It was the 9th of December, in the +morning, when we put to sea, and continuing to the southward of the +island, looking out for the Gloucester, we, on the 10th, at five in +the afternoon, discerned a small sail to the northward of us, to which +we gave chase, and coming up took her. She proved to be a bark from +Panama, bound to Cheripe, an inconsiderable village on the continent, +and was called the _Jesu Nazareno_. She had nothing on board but some +oakum, about a ton of rock-salt, and between 30l. and 40l. in specie, +most of it consisting of small silver money, intended for purchasing a +cargo of provisions at Cheripe. + +I cannot but observe, for the use of future cruisers, that had we been +in want of provisions, we had by this capture an obvious method of +supplying ourselves. For at Cheripe, whither she was bound, there is a +constant store of provisions prepared for the vessels which go thither +every week from Panama, the market of Panama being chiefly supplied +from thence: So that by putting a few of our hands on board our prize, +we might easily have seized a large store without any hazard, since +Cheripe is a place of no strength. + +On the 12th of December we were relieved from the perplexity we had +suffered, by the separation of the Gloucester; for on that day she +joined us, and informed us, that in tacking to the southward on our +first arrival, she had sprung her fore-top-mast, which had disabled +her from working to windward, and prevented her from joining us +sooner. We now scuttled and sunk the Jesu Nazareno, the prize we took +last, and having the greatest impatience to get into a proper station +for the galleon, stood altogether to the westward, and notwithstanding +the impediments we met with, left the island of Quibo in about nine +days after our first coming in sight of it. + + + +SECTION XIX. + +_From Quibo to the Coast of Mexico._ + +On the 12th of December we left Quibo, and the same day the commodore +delivered fresh instructions to the captains of the men of war, and +the commanders of our prizes, appointing them the rendezvouses +they were to make, and the courses they were to steer in case of a +separation. And first, they were directed to use all possible dispatch +in getting to the northward of the harbour of Acapulco, where they +were to endeavour to fall in with the land, between the latitudes of +18 and 19 deg.; from thence, they were to beat up the coast at eight or +ten leagues distance from the shore, till they came a-breast of Cape +Corientes, in the latitude of 20 deg.20'. When they arrived there, they +were to continue cruising on that station till the 14th of February; +and then they were to proceed to the middle island of the Tres Marias, +in the latitude of 21 deg.25', bearing from Cape Corientes N.W. by N., +twenty-five leagues distant. And if at this island they did not meet +the commodore, they were there to recruit their wood and water, and +then to make the best of their way to the island of Macao, on the +coast of China. These orders being distributed, we had little doubt +of arriving soon upon our intended station; as we expected, upon +the increasing our offing from Quibo, to fall in with the regular +trade-wind. But, to our extreme vexation, we were baffled for near a +month, either with tempestuous weather from the western quarter, or +with dead calms and heavy rains, attended with a sultry air; so that +it was the 25th of December before we got a sight of the island of +Cocos, which by our reckoning was only a hundred leagues from the +continent; and we had the mortification to make so little way, that we +did not lose sight of it again in five days. This island we found to +be in the latitude of 5 deg.20' north. It has a high hummock towards the +western part, which descends gradually, and at last terminates in a +low point to the eastward. From the island of Cocos we stood W. by N., +and were till the 9th of January in running an hundred leagues more. +We had at first flattered ourselves, that the uncertain weather and +western gales we met with were owing to the neighbourhood of the +continent, from which, as we got more distant, we expected every day +to be relieved, by falling in with the eastern trade-wind: But as our +hopes were so long baffled, and our patience quite exhausted, we began +at length to despair of succeeding in the great purpose we had in +view, that of intercepting the Manilla galleon; and this produced +a general dejection amongst us, as we had at first considered this +project as almost infallible, and had indulged ourselves in the most +boundless hopes of the advantages we should thence receive. However, +our despondency was at last somewhat alleviated, by a favourable +change of the wind; for, on the 9th of January, a gale for the first +time sprang up from the N.E., and on this we took the Carmelo in tow, +as the Gloucester did the Carmin, making all the sail we could to +improve the advantage, for we still suspected that it was only a +temporary gale, which would not last long; but the next day we had the +satisfaction to find, that the wind did not only continue in the same +quarter, but blew with so much briskness and steadiness, that we now +no longer doubted of its being the true trade-wind. And as we advanced +apace towards our station, our hopes began to revive, and our despair +by degrees gave place to pleasing prejudices: For though the customary +season of the arrival of the galleon at Acapulco was already elapsed, +yet we were unreasonable enough to flatter ourselves, that some +accidental delay might lengthen her passage beyond its usual limits. + +When we got into the trade-wind, we found no alteration in it till the +17th of January, when we were advanced to the latitude of 12 deg.50', but +on that day it shifted to the westward of the north: This change +we imputed to our having haled up too soon, though we then esteemed +ourselves full seventy leagues from the coast, which plainly shows, +that the trade-wind doth not take place, but at a considerable +distance from the continent. After this, the wind was not so +favourable to us as it had been: However, we still continued to +advance, and, on the 26th of January, being then to the northward of +Acapulco, we tacked and stood to the eastward, with a view of making +the land. + +In the preceding fortnight we caught some turtle on the surface of the +water, and several dolphins, bonitos, and albicores. One day, as one +of the sail-makers mates was fishing from the end of the gib-boom, he +lost his hold, and dropped into the sea; and the ship, which was then +going at the rate of six or seven knots, went directly over him: But +as we had the Carmelo in tow, we instantly called out to the people on +board her, who threw him over several ends of ropes, one of which he +fortunately caught hold of, and twisting it round his arm, was hauled +into the ship, without having received any other injury than a wrench +in his arm, of which he soon recovered. + +On the 26th of January, we stood to the eastward, expecting, by our +reckonings, to have fallen in with the land on the 28th; but though +the weather was perfectly clear, we had no sight of it at sun-set, and +therefore continued our course, not doubting but we should see it +by the next morning. About ten at night we discovered a light on the +larboard-bow, bearing from us N.N.E. The Tryal's prize too, about a +mile a-head of us, made a signal at the same time for seeing a sail; +and as we had no doubt that what we saw was a ship's light, we were +extremely animated with a firm persuasion, that it was the Manilla +galleon, which had been so long the object of our wishes: And what +added to our alacrity, was our expectation of meeting with two of them +instead of one, for we took it for granted, that the light in view +was carried in the top of one ship for a direction to her consort. +We immediately cast off the Carmelo and pressed forward with all our +canvass, making a signal for the Gloucester to do the same. Thus we +chased the light, keeping all our hands at their respective quarters, +under an expectation of engaging in the next half hour, as we +sometimes conceived the chase to be about a mile distant, and at other +times to be within reach of our guns; and some positively averred, +that besides the light, they could plainly discern her sails. The +commodore himself was so fully persuaded that we should be soon +along-side of her, that he sent for his first lieutenant, who +commanded between decks, and directed him to see all the great guns +loaded with two round-shot for the first broadside, and after that +with one round-shot and one grape, strictly charging him, at the same +time, not to suffer a gun to be fired, till he, the commodore, should +give orders, which he informed the lieutenant would not be till we +arrived within pistol-shot of the enemy. In this constant and eager +attention we continued all night, always presuming that another +quarter of an hour would bring us up with this Manilla ship, whose +wealth, with that of her supposed consort, we now estimated by round +millions. But when the morning broke, and day-light came on, we were +most strangely and vexatiously disappointed, by finding that the light +which had occasioned all this bustle and expectancy was only a fire +on the shore. Indeed the circumstances of this deception are so +extraordinary as to be scarcely credible; for, by our run during the +night, and the distance of the land in the morning, this fire, when we +first discovered it, must have been above twenty-five leagues from +us. It was indeed upon a very high mountain, and continued burning +for several days afterwards; it was not a volcano, but rather, as +I suppose, stubble, or heath, set on fire for some purpose of +agriculture.[1] + +[Footnote 1: The reasons for this supposition ought to have been +adduced. It is not improbable that the volcanic mountain in the +neighbourhood of Acapulco did furnish this vexatious light.--E.] + +At sun-rising, after this mortifying delusion, we found ourselves +about nine leagues off the land, which extended from the N.W. to E. +1/2 N. On this land we observed two remarkable hummocks, such as are +usually called paps, which bore north from us: These, a Spanish pilot +and two Indians, who were the only persons amongst us that pretended +to have traded in this part of the world, affirmed to be over the +harbour of Acapulco. Indeed, we very much doubted their knowledge of +the coast; for we found these paps to be in the latitude of 17 deg.56', +whereas those over Acapulco are said to be in 17 deg. only; and we +afterwards found our suspicions of their skill to be well grounded: +However, they were very confident, and assured us, that the height of +the mountains was itself an infallible mark of the harbour; the +coast, as they pretended, (though falsely) being generally low to the +eastward and westward of it. + +And now being in the track of the Manilla galleon, it was a great +doubt with us (as it was near the end of January,) whether she was or +was not arrived: But examining our prisoners about it, they assured +us, that she was sometimes known to come in after the middle of +February; and they endeavoured to persuade us, that the fire we +had seen on shore was a proof that she was as yet at sea, it being +customary, as they said, to make use of these fires as signals for +her direction, when she continued longer out than ordinary. On this +information, strengthened by our propensity to believe them in a +matter which so pleasingly flattered our wishes, we resolved to cruise +for her for some days; and we accordingly spread our ships at the +distance of twelve leagues from the coast, in such a manner, that it +was impossible she should pass us unobserved: However, not seeing her +soon, we were at intervals inclined to suspect that she had gained +her port already; and as we now began to want a harbour to refresh +our people, the uncertainty of our present situation gave us +great uneasiness, and we were very solicitous to get some positive +intelligence, which might either set us at liberty to consult our +necessities, if the galleon was arrived, or might animate us to +continue our present cruise with cheerfulness, if she was not. +With this view the commodore, after examining our prisoners very +particularly, resolved to send a boat, under night, into the harbour +of Acapulco, to see if the Manilla ship was there or not, one of the +Indians being very positive that this might be done without the +boat itself being discovered. To execute this project, the barge +was dispatched the 6th of February, with a sufficient crew and two +officers, who took with them a Spanish pilot, and the Indian who had +insisted on the practicability of this measure, and had undertaken to +conduct it. Our barge did not return to us again till the eleventh, +when the officers acquainted Mr Anson, that, agreeable to our +suspicion, there was nothing like a harbour in the place where the +Spanish pilots had at first asserted Acapulco to lie; that when they +had satisfied themselves in this particular, they steered to the +eastward, in hopes of discovering it, and had coasted along shore +thirty-two leagues; that in this whole range they met chiefly with +sandy beaches of a great length, over which the sea broke with so much +violence, that it was impossible for a boat to land; that at the +end of their run they could just discover two paps at a very great +distance to the eastward, which from their appearance and their +latitude, they concluded to be those in the neighbourhood of Acapulco; +but that not having a sufficient quantity of fresh water and provision +for their passage thither and back again, they were obliged to return +to the commodore, to acquaint him with their disappointment. On this +intelligence we all made sail to the eastward, in order to get into +the neighbourhood of that port, the commodore resolving to send the +barge a second time upon the same enterprize, when we were arrived +within a moderate distance. And the next day, which was the 12th of +February, we being by that time considerably advanced, the barge was +again dispatched, and particular instructions given to the officers +to preserve themselves from being seen from the shore. On the 13th we +espied a high land to the eastward, which we first imagined to be that +over the harbour of Acapulco; but we afterwards found that it was the +high land of Seguateneo, where there is a small harbour, of which we +shall have occasion to make more ample mention hereafter. And now, +having waited six days without any news of our barge, we began to be +uneasy for her safety; but, on the 7th day, that is, on the 19th of +February, she returned. The officers informed the commodore, that they +had discovered the harbour of Acapulco, which they esteemed to bear +from us E.S.E. at least fifty leagues distant: That on the 17th, about +two in the morning, they were got within the island that lies at +the mouth of the harbour, and yet neither the Spanish pilot, nor the +Indian who were with them, could give them any information where they +then were; but that while they were lying upon their oars in suspence +what to do, being ignorant that they were then at the very place +they sought for, they discerned a small light upon the surface of +the water, on which they instantly plied their paddles, and moving +as silently as possible towards it, they found it to be in a fishing +canoe, which they surprised, with three negroes that belonged to it. +It seems the negroes at first attempted to jump overboard; and being +so near the land, they would easily have swam on shore; but they +were prevented by presenting a piece at them, on which they readily +submitted, and were taken into the barge. The officers further added, +that they had immediately turned the canoe adrift against the face of +a rock, where it would inevitably be dashed to pieces by the fury of +the sea: This they did to deceive those who perhaps might be sent from +the town to search after the canoe; for upon seeing several pieces of +a wreck, they would immediately conclude that the people on board her +had been drowned, and would have no suspicion of their having fallen +into our hands. When the crew of the barge had taken this precaution, +they exerted their utmost strength in pulling out to sea, and by dawn +of day had gained such an offing, as rendered it impossible for them +to be seen from the coast. + +And now having got the three negroes in our possession, who were not +ignorant of the transactions at Acapulco, we were soon satisfied about +the most material points which had long kept us in suspense: And +on examination we found, that we were indeed disappointed in our +expectation of intercepting the galleon before her arrival at +Acapulco; but we learnt other circumstances which still revived our +hopes, and which, we then conceived, would more than balance the +opportunity we had already lost: For though our negro prisoners +informed us that the galleon arrived at Acapulco on our 9th of +January, which was about twenty days before we fell in with this +coast, yet they at the same time told us, that the galleon had +delivered her cargo, and was taking in water and provisions for her +return, and that the viceroy of Mexico had by proclamation fixed her +departure from Acapulco to the 14th of March, N.S. This last news +was most joyfully received by us, as we had no doubt but she must +certainly fall into our hands, and as it was much more eligible to +seize her on her return, than it would have been to have taken her +before her arrival, as the specie for which she had sold her cargo, +and which she would now have on board, was prodigiously more to be +esteemed by us than the cargo itself; great part of which would have +perished on our hands, and no part of it could have been disposed of +by us at so advantageous a mart as Acapulco. + +Thus we were a second time engaged in an eager expectation of meeting +with this Manilla ship, which, by the fame of its wealth, we had been +taught to consider as the most desirable prize that was to be met with +in any part of the globe. As all our future projects will be in +some sort regulated with a view to the possession of this celebrated +galleon, and as the commerce which is carried on by means of these +vessels between the city of Manilla and the port of Acapulco is +perhaps the most valuable, in proportion to its quantity, of any in +the known world, I shall endeavour, in the ensuing chapter, to give as +distinct an account as I can of all the particulars relating thereto, +both as it is a matter in which I conceive the public to be in some +degree interested, and as I flatter myself, that from the materials +which have fallen into my hands, I am enabled to describe it with more +distinctness than has hitherto been done, at least in our language. + + + +SECTION XX. + +_An Account of the Commerce carried on between the City of Manilla +on the Island of Luconia, and the Port of Acapulco in the Coast of +Mexico._[1] + +Though Spain did not acquire the property of any of the spice islands, +by the enterprising labours of Magellan (related in our tenth volume, +to which we refer,) yet the discovery made in his expedition to the +Philippine Islands, was thought too considerable to be neglected; for +these were not far distant from those places which produced spices, +and were very well situated for the Chinese trade, and for the +commerce of other parts of India; and therefore a communication was +soon established, and carefully supported between these islands +and the Spanish colonies on the coast of Peru: So that the city of +Manilla, (which Was built on the island of Luconia, the chief of the +Philippines) soon became the mart for all Indian commodities, which +were brought up by the inhabitants, and were annually sent to the +South-Seas to be there vended on their account; and the returns of +this commerce to Manilla being principally made in silver, the place +by degrees grew extremely opulent and considerable, and its trade so +far increased, as to engage the attention of the court of Spain, and +to be frequently controlled and regulated by royal edicts. + +[Footnote 1: Much of the original in this section is omitted, as +either unimportant now; or elsewhere given in the work.] + +In the infancy of this trade, it was carried on from the port +of Callao to the city of Manilla, in which voyage the trade-wind +continually favoured them; so that notwithstanding these places were +distant between three and four thousand leagues, yet the voyage was +often made in little more than two months: But then the return from +Manilla was extremely troublesome and tedious, and is said to have +sometimes taken them up above a twelvemonth, which, if they pretended +to ply up within the limits of the trade-wind, is not at all to be +wondered at; and it is asserted, that in their first voyages they were +so imprudent and unskilful as to attempt this course. However, that +route Was soon laid aside by the advice, as it is said, of a Jesuit, +who persuaded them to steer to the northward till they got clear of +the trade-winds, and then by the favour of the westerly winds, which +generally prevail in high latitudes, to stretch away for the coast +of California. This has been the practice for at least a hundred and +sixty years past, (1740-4:) For Sir Thomas Cavendish, in the year +1586, engaged off the south end of California a vessel bound from +Manilla to the American coast. And it was in compliance with this +new plan of navigation, and to shorten the run both backwards and +forwards, that the staple of this commerce to and from Manilla was +removed from Callao, on the coast of Peru, to the port of Acapulco, on +the coast of Mexico, where it continues fixed at this time. + +This trade to Acapulco is not laid open to all the inhabitants of +Manilla, but is confined by very particular regulations, somewhat +analogous to those by which the trade of the register ships from Cadiz +to the West-Indies is restrained. + +The trade is limited to a certain value, which the annual cargo ought +not to exceed. Some Spanish manuscripts', I have seen, mention this +limitation to be 600,000 dollars; but the annual cargo does certainly +surpass this sum; and though it may be difficult to fix its exact +value, yet from many comparisons I conclude, that the return cannot be +greatly short of three millions of dollars. + +This trade from Manilla to Acapulco and back again, is usually carried +on in one or at most two annual ships, which set sail from Manilla +about July, and arrive at Acapulco in the December, January, or +February following, and having there disposed of their effects, return +for Manilla some time in March, where they generally arrive in June; +so that the whole voyage takes up very near an entire year: For this +reason, though there is often no more than one ship employed at +a time, yet there is always one ready for the sea when the other +arrives; and therefore are provided three or four stout ships, that, +in case of any accident, the trade may not be suspended. + +The ship having received her cargo on board, and being fitted for +the sea, generally weighs from the mole of Cabite about the middle of +July, taking the advantage of the westerly monsoon, which then sets +in, to carry them to sea. It appears that the getting through the +Boccadero to the eastward must be a troublesome navigation, and in +fact it is sometimes the end of August before they get clear of the +land. When they have got through this passage, and are clear of the +islands, they stand to the northward of the east, in order to get into +the latitude of thirty odd degrees, where they expect to meet +with westerly winds, before which they run away for the coast of +California.[2] It is most remarkable, that by the concurrent testimony +of all the Spanish navigators, there is not one port, nor even a +tolerable road, as yet found out betwixt the Philippine Islands and +the coast of California and Mexico; so that from the time the Manilla +ship first loses sight of land, she never lets go her anchor till she +arrives on the coast of California, and very often not till she gets +to its southermost extremity: And therefore, as this voyage is rarely +of less than six months continuance, and the ship is deep laden with +merchandise and crowded with people, it may appear wonderful how they +can be supplied with a stock of fresh water for so long a time. A +supply indeed they have, but the reliance upon it seems at first sight +so extremely precarious, that it is wonderful such numbers should +risque perishing by the most dreadful of all deaths, on the +expectation of so casual a circumstance. In short, their only method +of recruiting their water is by the rains, which they meet with +between the latitudes of 30 deg. and 40 deg. north, and which they are always +prepared to catch: For this purpose they take to sea with them a +great number of mats, which they place slopingly against the gunwale, +whenever the rain descends; these mats extend from one end of the ship +to the other, and their lower edges rest on a large split bamboe, so +that all the water which falls on the mats drain into the bamboe, +and by this, as a trough, is conveyed into ajar; and this method of +supplying their water, however accidental and extraordinary it may at +first sight appear, hath never been known to fail them, so that it is +common, for them, when their voyage is a little longer than usual, to +fill all their water jars several times over. + +[Footnote 2: In the original is inserted a chart for the explanation +of this track, which it is unnecessary to give here.--E.] + +The length of time employed in this passage, so much beyond what +usually occurs in any other navigation, is perhaps in part to be +imputed to the indolence and unskilfulness of the Spanish sailors, and +to an unnecessary degree of caution and concern for so rich a vessel: +For it is said, that they never set their main-sail in the night, and +often lie by unnecessarily. And indeed the instructions given to their +captains (which I have seen) seem to have been drawn up by such as +were more apprehensive of too strong a gale, though favourable, than +of the inconveniences and mortality attending a lingering and tedious +voyage; for the captain is particularly ordered to make his passage in +the latitude of 30 deg. if possible, and to be extremely, careful to +stand no farther to the northward than is absolutely necessary for the +getting a westerly wind. This, according to our conceptions, appears +to be a very absurd restriction; since it can scarcely be doubted, +that in the higher latitudes the westerly winds are much steadier and +brisker than in the latitude of 30 deg.: So that the whole conduct of this +navigation seems liable to very great censure. If instead of steering +E.N.E. into the latitude of thirty odd degrees, they at first stood +N.E., or even still more northerly, into the latitude of 40 deg. or 45 deg., +in part of which course the trade-winds would greatly assist them, I +doubt not they might considerably contract their voyage. And this is +not merely matter of speculation; for I am credibly informed, that +about the year 1721, a French ship, by pursuing this course, ran from +the coast of China to the valley of Vanderas on the coast of +Mexico, in less than fifty days: But it was said that this ship, +notwithstanding the shortness of her passage, suffered prodigiously +by the scurvy, so that she had only four or five of her crew left when +she arrived in America. + +The Manilla ship having stood so far to the northward as to meet with +a westerly wind, stretches away nearly in the same latitude for the +coast of California: And when she has run into the longitude of 96 deg. +from Cape Espiritu, Santo, she generally meets with a plant floating +on the sea, which, being called Porra by the Spaniards, is, I +presume, a species of sea-leek. On the sight of this plant they esteem +themselves sufficiently near the Californian shore, and immediately +stand to the southward; they rely so much on this circumstance, that +on the first discovery of the plant the whole ship's company chaunt +a solemn _Te Deum_, esteeming the difficulties and hazards of their +passage to be now at an end; and they constantly correct their +longitude thereby, without ever coming within sight of land, till they +draw near its southern extremity. + +The most usual time of the arrival of the galleon at Acapulco is +towards the middle of January: But this navigation is so uncertain, +that she sometimes gets in a month sooner, and at other times has been +detained at sea above a month longer. The port of Acapulco is by +much the securest and finest in all the northern parts of the Pacific +Ocean; being, as it were, a bason surrounded by very high mountains: +But the town is a most wretched place, and extremely unhealthy, for +the air about it is so pent up by the hills, that it has scarcely any +circulation. The place is besides destitute of fresh water; except +what is brought from a considerable distance; and is in all respects +so inconvenient, that except at the time of the mart, whilst the +Manilla galleon is in the port, it is almost deserted. + +When the galleon arrives in this port, she is generally moored on its +western side, and her cargo is delivered with all possible expedition. +And now the town of Acapulco, from almost a solitude, is immediately +thronged with merchants from all parts of the kingdom of Mexico. The +cargo being landed and disposed of, the silver and the goods intended +for Manilla are taken on board, together with provisions and water, +and the ship prepares to put to sea with the utmost expedition. +There is indeed no time to be lost; for it is an express order to the +captain to be out of the port of Acapulco on his return, before the +first day of April, N.S. + +The principal return is made in silver, and consequently the rest of +the cargo is but of little account; the other articles, besides the +silver, being some cochineal and a few sweetmeats, the produce of the +American settlements, together with European millinery ware for the +women at Manilla, and some Spanish wines, such as tent and sherry, +which are intended for the use of their priests in the administration +of the sacrament. + +This difference in the cargo of the ship to and from Manilla, +occasions a very remarkable variety in the manner of equipping the +ship for these two different voyages. For the galleon, when she sets +sail from Manilla, being deep laden with a variety of bulky goods, has +not the conveniency of mounting her lower tire of guns, but +carries them in her hold, till she draws near Cape St Lucas, and is +apprehensive of an enemy. Her hands too are as few as is consistent +with the safety of the ship, that she may be less pestered with the +stowage of provisions. But on her return from Acapulco, as her cargo +lies in less room, her lower tire is (or ought to be) always mounted +before she leaves the port, and her crew is augmented with a supply of +sailors, and with one or two companies of foot, which are intended +to reinforce the garrison at Manilla. And there being besides many +merchants who take their passage to Manilla, her whole number of hands +on her return is usually little short of six hundred, all which are +easily provided for, by reason of the small stowage necessary for the +silver. The galleon being thus fitted for her return, the captain, on +leaving the port of Acapulco, steers for the latitude of 13 deg. or 14 deg., +and runs on that parallel, till he gets sight of the island of Guam, +one of the Ladrones. In this run the captain is particularly directed +to be careful of the shoals of St Bartholomew, and of the island of +Gasparico. He is also told in his instructions, that to prevent his +passing the Ladrones in the dark, there are orders given that, through +all the month of June, fires shall be lighted every night on the +highest part of Guam and Rota, and kept in till the morning. + +At Guam there is a small Spanish garrison, purposely intended to +secure that place for the refreshment of the galleon, and to yield her +all the assistance in their power. However, the danger of the road at +Guam is so great, that though the galleon is ordered to call there, +yet she rarely stays above a day of two, but getting her water and +refreshments on board as soon as possible, she steers away directly +for Cape Espiritu Santo, on the island of Samal. Here the captain is +again ordered to look out for signals; and he is told, that centinels +will be posted not only on that Cape, but likewise in Catanduanas, +Butusan, Birriborongo, and on the island of Batan. These centinels +are instructed to make a fire when they discover the ship, which the +captain is carefully to observe: For if, after this first fire is +extinguished, he perceives that four or more are lighted up again, he +is then to conclude that there are enemies on the coast; and on this +he is immediately to endeavour to speak with the centinel on shore, +and to procure from him more particular intelligence of their force, +and of the station they cruise in; pursuant to which, he is to +regulate his conduct, and to endeavour to gain some secure port +amongst those islands, without coming in sight of the enemy; and in +case he should be discovered when in port, and should be apprehensive +of attack, he is then to land his treasure, and to take some of his +artillery on shore for its defence, not neglecting to send frequent +and particular accounts to the city of Manilla of all that passes. +But if, after the first fire on shore, the captain observes that two +others only are made by the centinels, he is then to conclude, that +there is nothing to fear: And he is to pursue his course without +interruption, and to make the best of his way to the port of Cabite, +which is the port to the city of Manilla, and the constant station for +all the ships employed in this commerce to Acapulco. + + + +SECTION XXI. + +_Our Cruise off the Port of Acapulco for the Manilla Ship._ + +I have already mentioned, that the return of our barge from the port +of Acapulco, where she had surprised three negro fishermen, gave us +inexpressible satisfaction, as we learnt from our prisoners, that the +galleon was then preparing to put to sea, and that her departure was +fixed, by an edict of the viceroy of Mexico, to the 14th of March, +N.S. that is, to the 3d of March, according to our reckoning. + +Having satisfied ourselves upon this head, we indulged our curiosity +in enquiring after other news; when the prisoners informed us, that +they had received intelligence at Acapulco, of our having plundered +and burnt the town of Paita; and that, on this occasion, the governor +of Acapulco had augmented the fortifications of the place, and had +taken several precautions to prevent us from forcing our way into the +harbour; that in particular, he had placed a guard on the island which +lies at the harbour's mouth, and that this guard had been withdrawn +but two nights before the arrival of our barge: So that had the barge +succeeded in her first attempt, or had she arrived at the port the +second time two days sooner, she could scarcely have avoided being +seized on, or if she had escaped, it must have been with the loss of +the greatest part of her crew, as she would have been under the fire +of the guard, before she had known her danger. + +The withdrawing of this guard was a circumstance that greatly +encouraged us, as it seemed to demonstrate, not only that the enemy +had not as yet discovered us, but likewise that they had now no +farther apprehensions of our visiting their coast, indeed the +prisoners assured us, that they had no knowledge of our being in those +seas, and that they had therefore flattered themselves, that, in +the long interval since our taking of Paita, we had steered another +course. But we did not consider the opinion of these negro prisoners +so authentic a proof of our being hitherto concealed, as the +withdrawing of the guard from the harbour's mouth, which being the +action of the governor, was of all arguments the most convincing, as +he might be supposed to have intelligence, with which the rest of the +inhabitants were unacquainted. + +Satisfied therefore that we were undiscovered, and that the time was +fixed for the departure of the galleon from Acapulco, we made all +necessary preparations, and waited with the utmost impatience for the +important day. As this was the 3d of March, and it was the 19th of +February when the barge returned and brought us our intelligence, the +commodore resolved to continue the greatest part of the intermediate +time on his present station, to the westward of Acapulco, conceiving +that in this situation there would be less danger of his being seen +from the shore, which was the only circumstance that could deprive us +of the immense treasure, on which we had at present so eagerly fixed +our thoughts. During this interval, we were employed in scrubbing and +cleansing our ships, in bringing them into their most advantageous +trim, and in regulating the orders, signals, and stations to be +observed, when we should arrive off Acapulco, and the time of the +departure of the galleon should draw nigh. + +On the first of March, we made the high lands, usually called the paps +over Acapulco, and got with all possible expedition into the situation +prescribed by the commodore's orders. The distribution of our squadron +on this occasion, both for the intercepting the galleon, and for the +avoiding a discovery from the shore, was so very judicious, that it +well merits to be distinctly described. + +The Centurion brought the paps over the harbour to bear N.N.E., at +fifteen leagues distance, which was a sufficient offing to prevent our +being seen by the enemy. To the westward of the Centurion there was +stationed the Carmelo, and to the eastward were the Tryal prize, the +Gloucester, and the Carmin: These were all ranged in a circular line, +and each ship was three leagues distant from the next; so that the +Carmelo and the Carmin, which were the two extremes, were twelve +leagues distant from each other: And as the galleon could, without +doubt, be discerned at six leagues distance from either extremity, +the whole sweep of our squadron, within which nothing could pass +undiscovered, was at least twenty-four leagues in extent; and yet +we were so connected by our signals, as to be easily and speedily +informed of what was seen in any part of the line: And, to render this +disposition still more complete, and to prevent even the possibility +of the galleon's escaping us in the night, the two cutters belonging +to the Centurion and the Gloucester were both manned and sent in +shore; and were ordered to lie all day at the distance of four or five +leagues from the entrance of the port, where they could not possibly +be discovered; but they were directed in the night to stand nearer +to the harbour's mouth, and as the light of the morning came on, to +return back again to their day-posts. When the cutters should first +discover the Manilla ship, one of them was to return to the squadron, +and to make a signal, whether the galleon stood to the eastward or +to the westward; whilst the other was to follow the galleon at a +distance, and if it grew dark, to direct the squadron in their chace, +by shewing false fires. + +Besides the care we had taken to prevent the galleon from passing us +unobserved, we had not been inattentive to the means of engaging her +to advantage, when we came up with her: For, considering the thinness +of our hands, and the vaunting accounts given by the Spaniards of her +size, her guns, and her strength, this was a consideration not to be +neglected. As we supposed that none of our ships but the Centurion +and the Gloucester were capable of lying alongside of her, we took +on board the Centurion all the hands belonging to the Carmelo and the +Carmin, except what were just sufficient to navigate those ships; +and Captain Saunders was ordered to send from the Tryal prize +ten Englishmen, and as many negroes, to reinforce the crew of the +Gloucester. For the encouragement of our negroes, we promised them, +that on their good behaviour they should all have their freedom; and +as they had been almost every day trained to the management of the +great guns for the two preceding months, they were very well qualified +to be of service to us; and from their hopes of liberty, and in return +for the usage they had met with amongst us, they seemed disposed to +exert themselves to the utmost of their power. + +Being thus prepared for the reception of the galleon, we expected, +with the utmost impatience, the so-often-mentioned third of March, the +day fixed for her departure. And on that day we were all of us most +eagerly engaged in looking out towards Acapulco; and we were so +strangely prepossessed with the certainty of our intelligence, and +with an assurance of her coming out of port, that some or other of us +were constantly imagining they discovered one of our cutters returning +with a signal. But, to our extreme vexation, both this day and the +succeeding night passed without any news of the galleon: However, +we did not yet despair, but were all heartily disposed to flatter +ourselves, that some unforeseen accident had intervened, which might +have put off her departure for a few days; and suggestions of this +kind occurred in plenty, as we knew that the time fixed by the viceroy +for her sailing was often prolonged on the petition of the merchants +of Mexico. Thus we kept up our hopes, and did not abate of our +vigilance; and as the 7th of March was Sunday the beginning of +Passion-week, which is observed by the Papists with great strictness, +and a total cessation from all kinds of labour, so that no ship is +permitted to stir out of port during the whole week, this quieted our +apprehensions for some days, and disposed us not to expect the galleon +till the week following. On the Friday in this week our cutters +returned to us, the officers being very confident that the galleon was +still in port, and that she could not possibly have come out but they +must have seen her. On the Monday morning succeeding Passion-week, +that is, on the 15th of March, the cutters were again dispatched +to their old station, and our hopes were once more indulged in as +sanguine prepossessions as before; but in a week's time our eagerness +was greatly abated, and a general dejection and despondency took +place. It is true, there were some few amongst us who still kept +up their spirits, and were very ingenious in finding out reasons to +satisfy themselves, that the disappointment had been occasioned by a +casual delay of the galleon, which a few days would remove, and not +by a total suspension of her departure for the whole season: But these +speculations were not relished by the generality of our people; for +they were persuaded that the enemy had, by some accident, discovered +our being upon the coast, and had therefore laid an embargo on the +galleon till the next year. And indeed this persuasion was but too +well founded; for we afterwards learnt, that our barge, when sent on +the discovery of the port of Acapulco, had been seen from the +shore; and that this circumstance (no embarkations but canoes +ever frequenting that coast) was to them a sufficient proof of the +neighbourhood of our squadron; on which they stopped the galleon till +the succeeding year. + +The commodore himself, though he declared not his opinion, was yet in +his own thoughts very apprehensive that we were discovered, and that +the departure of the galleon was put off; and he had, in consequence +of this opinion, formed a plan for possessing himself of Acapulco; +for he had no doubt that the treasure remained in the town, though the +orders for dispatching the galleon were countermanded.[3] + +[Footnote 3: It is unnecessary to detail this plan, as, for sufficient +reasons soon discovered, it was not attempted to be executed.--E.] + +His scheme was formed on a supposition that the galleon was detained +till the next year; but as this was a matter of opinion only, and not +founded on intelligence, and there was a possibility that she might +still put to sea in a short time, the commodore thought it prudent +to continue his cruise upon this station, as long as the necessary +attention to his stores of wood and water, and to the convenient +season for his future passage to China, would give him leave; and +therefore, as the cutters had been ordered to remain, before Acapulco +till the 23d of March, the squadron did not change its position till +that day; when the cutters not appearing, we were in some pain for +them, apprehending they might have suffered either from the enemy or +the weather; but we were relieved from our concern the next morning, +when we discovered them, though at a great distance and to the leeward +of the squadron: We bore down to them and took them up and were +informed by them, that, conformable to their orders, they had left +their station the day before, without having seen any thing of the +galleon; and we found, that the reason of their being so far to +the leeward of us was a strong current, which had driven the whole +squadron to windward. + +It afterwards appeared that this prolongation of our cruise was a very +prudent measure, and afforded us no contemptible chance of seizing the +treasure, on which we had so long fixed our thoughts. For it seems, +after the embargo was laid on the galleon, the persons principally +interested in the cargo sent several expresses to Mexico, to beg +that she might still be permitted to depart: For as they knew, by the +accounts sent from Paita, that we had not more than three hundred men +in all, they insisted that there was nothing to be feared from us; +for that the galleon (carrying above twice as many hands as our whole +squadron) would be greatly an overmatch for us. Though the viceroy was +inflexible; yet, on this representation, she was kept ready for the +sea for near three weeks after the first order came to detain her. + +When we had taken up the cutters, all the ships being joined, the +commodore made a signal to speak with their commanders; and upon +enquiry into the stock of fresh water remaining on board the squadron, +it was found to be so very slender, that we were under a necessity of +quitting our station to procure a fresh supply. It was agreed, that +the harbour of Seguataneo or Chequetan being the nearest to us, was, +on that account, the most eligible; it was therefore immediately +resolved to make the best of our way thither: And that, even while +we were recruiting our water, we might not abandon our views upon the +galleon, which perhaps, upon certain intelligence of our ship being +employed at Chequetan, might venture to slip out to sea; our cutter, +under the command of Mr Hughes, the lieutenant of the Tryal prize, was +ordered to cruise off the port of Acapulco for twenty-four days, that +if the galleon should set sail in that interval, we might be speedily +informed of it. In pursuance of these resolutions we endeavoured +to ply to the westward, to gain our intended port, but were often +interrupted in our progress by calms and adverse currents: In these +intervals we employed ourselves in taking out the most valuable part +of the cargoes of the Carmelo and Carmin prizes, which two ships we +intended to destroy as soon as we had tolerably cleared them. By the +first of April we were so far advanced towards Seguataneo, that we +thought it expedient to send out two boats, that they might range +along the coast, and discover the watering-place; they were gone some +days, and our water being now very short, it was a particular felicity +to us that we met with daily supplies of turtle, for had we been +entirely confined to salt provisions, we must have suffered +extremely in so warm a climate. Indeed our present circumstances were +sufficiently alarming, and gave the most considerate amongst us +as much concern as any of the numerous perils we had hitherto +encountered; for our boats, as we conceived by their not returning, +had not as yet discovered a place proper to water at, and by the +leakage of our cask and other accidents, we had not ten days water +on board the whole squadron; so that from the known difficulty of +procuring water on this coast, and the little reliance we had on +the Buccaneer writers, (the only guides we had to trust to) we were +apprehensive of being soon exposed to a calamity, the most terrible +of any in the long disheartening catalogue of the distresses of a +sea-faring life. + +But these gloomy suggestions were soon happily ended; for our boats +returned on the 5th of April, having discovered a place proper for our +purpose, about seven miles to the westward of the rocks of Seguataneo, +which, by the description they gave of it, appeared to be the port +called by Dampier the harbour of Chequetan. They were ordered out +again the next day, to sound the harbour and its entrance, which they +had represented as very narrow. At their return they reported the +place to be free from any danger; so that on the 7th we stood in, and +that evening came to an anchor in eleven fathom. The Gloucester came +to an anchor at the same time with us; but the Camelo and the Carmin +having fallen to leeward, the Tryal prize was ordered to join them, +and to bring them in, which in two or three days she effected. + + + +SECTION XXII. + +_A short Account of Chequetan, and of the adjacent Coast and Country._ + +The harbour of Chequetan lies in the latitude of 17 deg. 36' N. and is +about thirty leagues to the westward of Acapulco. It is easy to +be discovered by any ship that will keep well in with the land, +especially by such as range down coast from Acapulco, and will attend +to the following particulars. + +There is a beach of sand which extends eighteen leagues from the +harbour of Acapulco to the westward, against which the sea breaks with +such violence that it is impossible to land in any part of it; but yet +the ground is so clean; that ships, in the fair season, may anchor in +great safety at the distance of a mile or two from the shore. The land +adjacent to this beach is generally low, full of villages, and planted +with a great number of trees; and on the tops of some small eminencies +there are several look-out towers, so that the face of the country +affords a very agreeable prospect: For the cultivated part, which is +the part here described, extends some leagues back from the shore, and +there appears to be bounded by the chain of mountains, which stretch +to a considerable distance on either side of Acapulco. It is a most +remarkable particularity, that in this whole extent, being, as hath +been mentioned, eighteen leagues, and containing, in appearance, the +most populous and best planted district of the whole coast, there +should be neither canoes, boats, nor any other embarkations either for +fishing, coasting, or for pleasure. + +The beach here described is the surest guide for finding the harbour +of Chequetan; for five miles to the westward of the extremity of this +beach there appears a hummock, which at first makes like an island, +and is in shape not very unlike the hill of Petaplan, hereafter +mentioned, though much smaller. Three miles to the westward of this +hummock is a white rock lying near the shore, which cannot easily be +passed by unobserved; it is about two cables length from the land, +and lies in a large bay about nine leagues over. The westward point +of this bay is the hill of Petaplan. This hill, like the forementioned +hummock, may be at first mistaken for an island, though it be, in +reality, a peninsula, which is joined to the continent by a low and +narrow isthmus, covered over with shrubs and small trees. The bay of +Seguataneo extends from this hill a great way to the westward; and at +a small distance from the hill, and opposite to the entrance of +the bay, there is an assemblage of rocks, which are white, from the +excrements of boobies and tropical birds. Four of these rocks are high +and large, and, together with several other smaller ones, are, by +the help of a little imagination, pretended to resemble the form of a +cross, and are called the White Friars. These rocks bear W. by N. +from Petaplan, and about seven miles to the westward of them lies the +harbour of Chequetan, which is still more minutely distinguished by a +large and single rock, that rises out of the water a mile and a half +distant from its entrance, and bears S. 1/2 W. from the middle of +it.[1] + +[Footnote 1: In the original are references to some plates, which +cannot be given in this work.--E.] + +These are the infallible marks by which the harbour of Chequetan may +be known to those who keep well in with the land; and I must add, that +the coast is no ways to be dreaded from the middle of October to the +beginning of May, nor is there then any danger from the winds, though +in the remaining part of the year there are frequent and violent +tornadoes, heavy rains, and hard gales, in all directions of the +compass. But as to those who keep at any considerable distance from +the coast, there is no other method to be taken by them for finding +this harbour than that of making it by its latitude; for there are so +many ranges of mountains rising one upon the back of another within +land, that no drawings of the appearance of the coast can be at all +depended on when off at sea, for every little change of distance, or +variation of position, brings new mountains in view, and produces an +infinity of different prospects, which would render all attempts of +delineating the aspect of the coast impossible. + +The harbour is environed on all sides, except to the westward, with +high mountains overspread with trees. The passage into it is very safe +on either side of the rock that lies off the mouth of it, though we, +both in coming in and going out, left it to the eastward. The ground +without the harbour is gravel mixed with stones, but within it is soft +mud: And it must be remembered, that in coming to an anchor a good +allowance should be made for a large swell, which frequently causes a +great send of the sea; as likewise for the ebbing and flowing of the +tide, which we observed to be about five feet, and that it set nearly +E. and W. + +The watering-place had the appearance of a large standing lake, +without any visible outlet into the sea, from which it is separated +by a part of the strand. The origin of this lake is a spring, that +bubbles out of the ground near half a mile within the country. We +found the water a little brackish, but more considerably so towards +the sea-side, for the nearer we advanced towards the spring-head, +the softer and fresher it proved: This laid us under a necessity +of filling all our casks from the furthest part of the lake, and +occasioned us some trouble, and would have proved still more difficult +had it not been for our particular management, which, for the +conveniency of it, deserves to be recommended to all who shall +hereafter water at this place. Our method consisted in making use of +canoes which drew but little water; for, loading them with a number of +small casks, they easily got up the lake to the spring-head, and the +small casks being there filled, were in the same manner transported +back again to the beach, where some of our hands always attended to +start them into other casks of a larger size. + +Though this lake, during our continuance there, appeared to have no +outlet into the sea, yet there is reason to suppose that in the wet +season it overflows the strand, and communicates with the ocean; for +Dampier, who was formerly here, speaks of it as a large river. Indeed, +there must be a very great body of water amassed before the lake can +rise high enough to overflow the strand, for the neighbouring country +is so low, that great part of it must be covered with water before it +can run out over the beach. + +As the country in the neighbourhood, particularly the tract which we +have already described, appeared to be well peopled and cultivated, we +hoped thence to have procured fresh provision and other refreshments +which we stood in need of. With this view, the morning after we came +to an anchor, the commodore ordered a party of forty men, well armed, +to march into the country, and to endeavour to discover some town +or village, where they were to attempt a correspondence with the +inhabitants; for we doubted not if we could have any intercourse with +them, but that by presents of some of the coarse merchandise, with +which our prizes abounded (which, though of little consequence to us, +would to them be extremely valuable,) we should allure them to furnish +us with whatever fruits or fresh provisions were in their power. Our +people were directed on this occasion to proceed with the greatest +circumspection, and to make as little ostentation of hostility as +possible; for we were sensible that we could meet with no wealth here +worth our notice, and that what necessaries we really wanted we +should in all probability be better supplied with by an open amicable +traffic, than by violence and force of arms. But this endeavour of +opening an intercourse with the inhabitants proved ineffectual, for +towards evening, the party which had been ordered to march into the +country, returned greatly fatigued with their unusual exercise, and +some of them so far spent as to have fainted by the way, and to be +obliged to be brought back upon the shoulders of their companions. +They had marched in all, as they conceived, about ten miles, in a +beaten road, where they often saw the fresh dung of horses or mules. +When they had got about five miles from the harbour, the road divided +between the mountains into two branches, one running to the east and +the other to the west. After some deliberation about the course they +should take, they agreed to pursue the eastern road, which, when they +had followed for some time, led them at once into a large plain or +savannah; on one side of which they discovered a centinel on horseback +with a pistol in his hand: It was supposed that when they first saw +him he was asleep, but his horse startled at the glittering of their +arms, and, turning round suddenly, rode off with his master, who was +very near being unhorsed in the surprise, but he recovered his seat, +and escaped with the loss of his hat and his pistol, which he dropped +on the ground. Our people ran after him, in hopes of discovering +some village or habitation, but as he had the advantage of being on +horseback, they soon lost sight of him. However, they were unwilling +to come back without making some discovery, and therefore still +followed the track they were in; but the heat of the day increasing, +and finding no water to quench their thirst, they were first obliged +to halt, and then resolved to return; for, as they saw no signs of +plantations or cultivated land, they had no reason to believe that +there was any village or settlement near them: But, to leave no means +untried of procuring some intercourse with the people, the +officers stuck up several poles in the road, to which were affixed +declarations, written in Spanish, encouraging the inhabitants to +come down to the harbour and to traffic with us, giving the strongest +assurances of a kind reception, and faithful payment for any +provisions they should bring us. This was doubtless a very prudent +measure, but it produced no effect; for we never saw any of them +during the whole time of our continuance at this port of Chequetan. +But had our men, upon the division of the path, taken the western road +instead of the eastern, it would soon have led them to a village or +town, which, in some Spanish manuscripts, is mentioned as being in +the neighbourhood of this port, and which we afterwards learnt was not +above two miles from that turning. + +And on this occasion I cannot help mentioning another adventure which +happened to some of our people in the bay of Petaplan, as it may help +to give the reader a just idea of the temper of the inhabitants of +this part of the world. Some time after our arrival at Chequetan, +Lieutenant Brett was sent by the commodore, with two of our boats +under his command, to examine the coast to the eastward, particularly +to make observations on the bay and watering-place of Petaplan. As Mr +Brett with one of the boats was preparing to go on shore towards the +hill of Petaplan, he, accidentally looking across the bay, perceived, +on the opposite strand, three small squadrons of horse parading upon +the beach, and seeming to advance towards the place where he proposed +to land. On sight of this he immediately put off the boat, though he +had but sixteen men with him, and stood over the bay towards them; and +he soon came near enough to perceive that they were mounted on very +sightly horses, and were armed with carbines and lances. On seeing him +make towards them they formed upon the beach, and seemed resolved to +dispute his landing, firing several distant shot at him as he drew +near; till at last, the boat being arrived within a reasonable +distance of the most advanced squadron, Mr Brett ordered his people +to fire, upon which this resolute cavalry instantly ran in great +confusion into the wood. In this precipitate flight one of their +horses fell down and threw his rider; but whether he was wounded or +not we could not learn, for both man and horse soon got up again, and +followed the rest. In the mean time the other two squadrons, who were +drawn up at a great distance behind, out of the reach of our shot, +were calm spectators of the rout of their comrades; for they had +halted on our first approach, and never advanced afterwards. It was, +doubtless, fortunate for our people that the enemy acted with so +little prudence, and exerted so little spirit, for had they concealed +themselves till our men had landed, it is scarcely possible but +the whole boat's crew must have fallen into their hands, since the +Spaniards were not much short of two hundred in number. However, +the discovery of so considerable a force collected in this bay of +Petaplan, obliged us constantly to keep a boat or two before it; for +we were apprehensive that the cutter, which we had left to cruise off +Acapulco, might, on her return, be surprised by the enemy, if she did +not receive timely information of her danger. + +After our unsuccessful attempt to engage the people of the country +to furnish us with the necessaries we wanted, we were obliged to be +contented with what we could procure in the neighbourhood of the +port. We caught fish here in tolerable quantities, especially when the +smoothness of the water permitted us to hale the seyne. Amongst the +rest, we got here cavallies, breams, mullets, soles, fiddle-fish, sea +eggs, and lobsters; and here, and in no other place, met with that +extraordinary fish called the Torpedo, or numbing fish, which is in +shape very like the fiddle-fish, and is not to be known from it but by +a brown circular spot of about the bigness of a crown-piece near the +centre of its back; perhaps its figure will be better understood when +I say it is a flat fish, much resembling the thorn-back. This fish is +of a most singular nature, productive of the strangest effects on the +human body; for whoever handles it, or happens even to set his foot +upon it, is presently seized with a numbness all over him, but more +distinguishable in that limb which was in immediate contact with it. +The same effect, too, will be, in some degree, produced by touching +the fish, with any thing held in the hand; for I myself had a +considerable degree of numbness conveyed to my right arm through a +walking cane, which I rested on the body of the fish for some time, +and I make no doubt but I should have been much more sensibly affected +had not the fish been near expiring when I made the experiment: For it +is observable that this influence acts with most vigour when the fish +is first taken out of the water, and entirely ceases when it is +dead, so that it may be then handled, or even eaten, without any +inconvenience. I shall only add that the numbness of my arm on +this occasion did not go off on a sudden, as the accounts of some +naturalists gave me reason to expect, but diminished gradually, so +that I had some sensation of it remaining till the next day. + +To the account given of the fish we met with here, I must add, that +though turtle now grew scarce, and we met with none in this harbour of +Chequetan, yet our boats, which, as I have mentioned, were stationed +off Petaplan, often supplied us therewith; and though this was a food +that we had now been so long as it were confined to, (for it was the +only fresh provisions which we had tasted for near six months,) yet we +were far from being cloyed with it, or finding that the relish we had +of it at all diminished. + +The animals we met with on shore were principally guanos, with which +the country abounds, and which are by some reckoned delicious food. +We saw no beasts of prey here, except alligators, several of which +our people discovered, but none of them very large. However, we were +satisfied there were tygers in the woods, though none of them came in +sight; for we every morning found the beach near the watering-place +imprinted with their footsteps: But we never apprehended any mischief +from them, for they are by no means so fierce as the Asiatic or +African tyger, and are rarely, if ever, known to attack mankind. Birds +were in sufficient plenty, especially pheasants of different kinds, +some of them of an uncommon size, but they were very dry and tasteless +food. Besides these we had a variety of smaller birds, particularly +parrots, which we often killed for food. + +The fruits and vegetable refreshments at this place were neither +plentiful, nor of the best kinds: There were, it is true, a few +bushes scattered about the woods, which supplied us with limes, but we +scarcely could procure enough for our present use; and these, with +a small plumb of an agreeable acid, called in Jamaica the hog-plumb, +together with another fruit called a papah, were the only fruits to be +found in the woods. Nor is there any other useful vegetable here worth +mentioning, except brook-lime: This indeed grew in great quantities +near the fresh-water banks; and, as it was esteemed an antiscorbutic, +we fed upon it frequently, though its extreme bitterness made it very +unpalatable. + +By all that has been said, it will appear that the conveniences of +this port of Chequetan, particularly in the articles of refreshment, +are not altogether such as might be desired: But, upon the whole, it +is a place of considerable consequence, as the only secure harbour in +a vast extent of coast, except Acapulco. + + + +SECTION XXIII. + +_Account of Proceedings at Chequetan and on the adjacent Coast, till +our setting sail for Asia._ + +The next morning, after our coming to an anchor in the harbour of +Chequetan, we sent about ninety of our men well armed on shore, forty +of whom were ordered to march into the country, as has been mentioned, +and the remaining fifty were employed to cover the watering-place, and +to prevent any interruption from the natives. + +Here it was agreed, after mature consultation, to destroy the Tryal's +prize, as well as the Carmelo and Carmin whose fate had been before +resolved on. Indeed the ship was in good repair and fit for the sea; +but as the whole numbers onboard our squadron did not amount to the +complement of a fourth-rate man of war, we found it was impossible +to divide them into three ships, without rendering them incapable +of navigating in safety in the tempestuous weather we had reason to +expect on the coast of China, where we supposed we should arrive about +the time of the change of the monsoons. + +During our stay here there happened an incident, which, as it proved +the means of convincing our friends in England of our safety, which +for some time they were in doubt about, I shall beg leave particularly +to recite. I have observed, that from this harbour of Chequetan there +was but one path-way which led through the woods into the country. +This we found much beaten, and were thence convinced that it was well +known to the inhabitants. As it passed by the spring-head, and was +the only avenue by which the Spaniards could approach us, we, at some +distance beyond the spring-head, felled several large trees, and laid +them one upon the other across the path; and at this barricado we +constantly kept a guard: And we besides ordered our men employed in +watering to have their arms ready, and, in case of any alarm, to march +instantly to this post. Though our principal intention was to prevent +our being disturbed by any sudden attack of the enemy's horse, yet it +answered another purpose, which was not in itself less important; this +was to hinder our own people from straggling singly into the country, +where we had reason to believe they would be surprised by the +Spaniards, who would doubtless be extremely solicitous to pick up some +of them, in hopes of getting intelligence of our future designs. +To avoid this inconvenience, the strictest orders were given to the +centinels, to let no person whatever pass beyond their post: But, +notwithstanding this precaution, we missed one Lewis Leger, who was +the commodore's cook; and as he was a Frenchman, and suspected to be +a papist, it was by some imagined that he had deserted with a view +of betraying all that he knew to the enemy; but this appeared by the +event to be an ill-grounded surmise, for it was afterwards known +that he had been taken by some Indians, who carried him prisoner to +Acapulco, from whence he was transferred, to Mexico, and then to Vera +Cruz, where he was shipped on board a vessel bound to Old Spain: And +the vessel being obliged by some accident to put into Lisbon, Leger +escaped on shore, and was by the British consul sent from thence to +England; where he brought the first authentic account of the safety of +the commodore, and of what he had done in the South Seas. The relation +he gave of his own seizure was, that he had rambled into the woods +at some distance from the barricade, where he had first attempted to +pass, but had been stopped and threatened to be punished; that his +principal view was to get a quantity of limes for his master's store; +and that in this occupation he was surprised by four Indians, who +stripped him naked, and carried him in that condition to Acapulco, +exposed to the scorching heat of the sun, which at that time of the +year shone with its greatest violence: And afterwards at Mexico his +treatment in prison was sufficiently severe, and the whole course +of his captivity was a continued instance of the hatred which the +Spaniards bear to all those who endeavour to disturb them in the +peaceable possession of the coasts of the South Seas. Indeed, Leger's +fortune was upon the whole extremely singular; for after the hazards +he had run in the commodore's squadron, and the severities he had +suffered in his long confinement amongst the enemy, a more fatal +disaster attended him on his return to England: For though, when he +arrived in London, some of Mr Anson's friends interested themselves in +relieving him from the poverty to which his captivity had reduced him, +yet he did not long enjoy the benefit of their humanity, for he was +killed in an insignificant night brawl, the cause of which could +scarcely be discovered. + +And here I must observe, that though the enemy never appeared in sight +during our stay in this harbour; yet we perceived that there were +large parties encamped in the woods about us; for we could see their +smokes, and could thence determine that they were posted in a circular +line surrounding us at a distance; and just before our coming away +they seemed, by the increase of their fires, to have received a +considerable reinforcement. + +Towards the latter end of April, the unloading of our three prizes, +our wooding and watering, and, in short, all our proposed employments +at the harbour of Chequetan were completed: So that, on the 27th of +April, the Tryal's prize, the Carmelo, and the Carmin, all which we +intended to destroy, were towed on shore and scuttled, and a quantity +of combustible materials were distributed in their upper works; and +the next morning the Centurion and the Gloucester weighed anchor, but +as there was but little wind, and that not in their favour, they were +obliged to warp out of the harbour. When they had reached the offing, +one of the boats was dispatched back again to set fire to our prize, +which was accordingly executed. And a canoe was left fixed to a +grapnel in the middle of the harbour, with a bottle in it well corked, +inclosing a letter to Mr Hughes, who commanded the cutter, which was +ordered to cruise before the port of Acapulco, when we came off that +station. And on this occasion I must mention more particularly than I +have yet done, the views of the commodore in leaving the cutter before +that port. + +When we were necessitated to make for Chequetan to take in our water, +Mr Anson considered that our being in that harbour would soon be known +at Acapulco; and therefore he hoped, that on the intelligence of our +being employed in port, the galleon might put to sea, especially as +Chequetan is so very remote from the course generally steered by the +galleon: He therefore ordered the cutter to cruise twenty-four +days off the port of Acapulco, and her commander was directed, on +perceiving the galleon under sail, to make the best of his way to the +commodore at Chequetan. As the Centurion was doubtless a much better +sailer than the galleon, Mr Anson in this case resolved to have got +to sea as soon as possible, and to have pursued the galleon across the +Pacific Ocean: And supposing he should not have met with her in his +passage, (which considering that he would have kept nearly the same +parallel, was not very improbable,) yet he was certain of arriving +off Cape Espiritu Santo, on the island of Samal, before her; and that +being the first land she makes on her return to the Philippines, we +could not have failed to have fallen in with her, by cruising a few +days in that station. But the viceroy of Mexico ruined this project by +keeping the galleon in the port of Acapulco all that year. + +The letter left in the canoe for Mr Hughes, the commander of the +cutter, the time of whose return was now considerably elapsed, +directed him to go back immediately to his former station before +Acapulco, where he would find Mr Anson, who resolved to cruise for him +there for a certain number of days; after which it was added, that +the commodore would return to the southward to join the rest of the +squadron. This last article was inserted to deceive the Spaniards, if +they got possession of the canoe, (as we afterwards learnt they did) +but could not impose on Mr Hughes, who well knew that the commodore +had no squadron to join, nor any intention of steering back to Peru. + +Being now in the offing of Chequetan, bound cross the vast Pacific +Ocean in our way to China, we were impatient to run off the coast as +soon as possible; for as the stormy season was approaching apace, and +as we had no further views in the American seas, we had hoped that +nothing would have prevented us from standing to the westward, the +moment we got out of the harbour of Chequetan: And it was no small +mortification to us, that our necessary employment there had detained +us so much longer than we expected; and now we were farther detained +by the absence of the cutter, and the standing towards Acapulco in +search of her. Indeed, as the time of her cruise had been expired near +a fortnight, we suspected that she had been discovered from the shore; +and that the governor of Acapulco had thereupon sent out a force to +seize her, which, as she carried but six hands, was no very difficult +enterprize. However, this being only conjecture, the commodore, as +soon as we got clear of the harbour of Chequetan, stood along the +coast to the eastward in search of her: And to prevent her from +passing by us in the dark, we brought to every night; and the +Gloucester, whose station was a league within us towards the shore, +carried a light which the cutter could not but perceive if she kept +along shore, as we supposed she would do; and as a farther security, +the Centurion and the Gloucester alternately showed two false fires +every half hour. + +By Sunday, the 2d of May, we were advanced within three leagues of +Acapulco, and having seen nothing of our boat, we gave her over for +lost, which, besides the compassionate concern for our shipmates, and +for what it was apprehended they might have suffered, was in itself +a misfortune in our present scarcity of hands, we were all greatly +interested in: For the crew of the cutter, consisting of six men and +the lieutenant, were the very flower of our people, purposely picked +out for this service, and known to be every one of them of tried +and approved resolution, and as skilful seamen as ever trod a deck. +However, as it was the general belief among us that they were taken +and carried into Acapulco, the commodore's prudence suggested a +project which we hoped would recover them. This was founded on our +having many Spanish and Indian prisoners in our possession, and +a number of sick negroes, who could be of no service to us in the +navigating of the ship. The commodore therefore wrote a letter the +same day to the governor of Acapulco, telling him that he would +release them all, provided the governor returned the cutter's crew; +and the letter was dispatched the same afternoon by a Spanish officer, +of whose honour we had a good opinion, and who was furnished with +a launch belonging to one of our prizes, and a crew of six other +prisoners who all gave their parole for their return. The officer, +besides the commodore's letter, carried with him a petition signed by +all the prisoners, beseeching his excellency to acquiesce in the terms +proposed. From a consideration of the number of our prisoners, and +the quality of some of them, we did not doubt but the governor would +readily comply, and therefore we kept plying on and off the whole +night, intending to keep well in with the land, that we might receive +an answer at the limited time, which was the next day, being Monday: +But both on the Monday and Tuesday we were driven so far off shore, +that we could not hope to receive any answer; and on the Wednesday +morning we found ourselves fourteen leagues from the harbour of +Acapulco; but as the wind was now favourable, we pressed forwards with +all our sail, and did not doubt of getting in with the land in a +few hours. Whilst we were thus standing in, the man at the mast-head +called out that he saw a boat under sail at a considerable distance +to the south-eastward: This we took for granted was the answer of the +governor to the commodore's message, and we instantly edged towards +it; but when we drew nearer, we found to our unspeakable joy that it +was our own cutter. While she was still at a distance, we imagined +that she had been discharged out of the port of Acapulco by the +governor; but when she drew nearer, the wan and meagre countenances of +the crew, the length of their beards, and the feeble and hollow tone +of their voices, convinced us that they had suffered much greater +hardships than could be expected from even the severities of a +Spanish prison. They were obliged to be helped into the ship, and were +immediately put to bed, and with rest, and nourishing diet, which +they were plentifully supplied with, from the commodore's table, they +recovered their health and vigour apace. We learnt that they had kept +the sea the whole time of their absence; that when they finished their +cruise before Acapulco, and had just begun to ply to the westward in +order to join the squadron, a strong adverse current had forced them +down the coast to the eastward in spite of all their efforts; that at +length their water being all expended, they were obliged to search +the coast farther on to the eastward, in quest of some convenient +landing-place, where they might get a fresh supply; that in this +distress they ran upwards of eighty leagues to leeward, and found +every where so large a surf, that there was not the least possibility +of their landing; that they passed some days in this dreadful +situation without water, and having no other means left them to allay +their thirst than sucking the blood of the turtle which they caught; +and at last, giving up all hopes of relief, the heat of the climate +augmenting their necessities, and rendering their sufferings +insupportable, they abandoned themselves to despair, fully persuaded +that they should perish by the most terrible of all deaths; but that +they were soon after happily relieved by a most unexpected incident, +for there fell so heavy a rain, that by spreading their sails +horizontally, and by putting bullets in the centres of them to draw +them to a point, they caught as much water as filled all their casks; +that immediately upon this fortunate supply they stood to the westward +in quest of the commodore; and being now luckily favoured by a strong +current, they joined us in less than fifty hours, from the time +they stood to the westward, after having been absent from us full +forty-three days. Those who have an idea of the inconsiderable size of +a cutter belonging to a sixty-gun ship, (being only an open boat +about twenty-two feet in length,) and who will attend to the various +accidents to which she was exposed during a six weeks continuance +alone, in the open ocean, on so impracticable and dangerous a coast, +will readily own that her return to us, after all the difficulties +which she actually experienced, and the hazards to which she was each +hour exposed, was little short of miraculous. + +I cannot finish this article without remarking how little reliance +navigators ought to have on the accounts of the Buccaneer writers: +For though in this run eighty leagues to the eastward of Acapulco, +she found no place where it was possible for a boat to land, yet +those writers have not been ashamed to feign harbours and convenient +watering-places within these limits, thereby exposing such as should +confide in their relations to the risk of being destroyed by thirst. + +Having received our cutter, the sole object of our coming a second +time before Acapulco, the commodore resolved not to lose a moment's +time longer, but to run off the coast with the utmost expedition, both +as the stormy season on the coast of Mexico was now approaching apace, +and as we were apprehensive of having the westerly monsoon to struggle +with when we came upon the coast of China; and therefore he no longer +stood towards Acapulco, as he now wanted no answer from the governor; +but yet he resolved not to deprive his prisoners of the liberty which +he had promised them; so that they were all immediately embarked in +two launches which belonged to our prizes, those from the Centurion in +one launch, and those from the Gloucester in the other. The launches +were well equipped with masts, sails, and oars, and, lest the wind +might prove unfavourable, they had a stock of water and provisions +put on board them sufficient for fourteen days. There were discharged +thirty-nine persons from on board the Centurion, and eighteen from the +Gloucester, the greatest part of them Spaniards, the rest Indians and +sick negroes: But as our crews were very weak, we kept the mulattoes +and some of the stoutest of the negroes, with a few Indians, to assist +us; but we dismissed every Spanish prisoner whatever. We have since +learnt, that these two launches arrived safe at Acapulco, where the +prisoners could not enough extol the humanity with which they had been +treated; and that the governor, before their arrival, had returned a +very obliging answer to the commodore's letter, and had attended it +with a present of two boats laden with the choicest refreshments and +provisions which were to be got at Acapulco; but that these boats +not having found our ships, were at length obliged to put back again, +after having thrown all their provisions overboard in a storm which +threatened their destruction. + +The sending away our prisoners was our last transaction on the +American coast; for no sooner had we parted with them, than we and the +Gloucester made sail to the S.W., proposing to get a good offing from +the land, where we hoped, in a few days, to meet with the regular +trade-wind, which the accounts of former navigators had represented as +much brisker and steadier in this ocean, than in any other part of the +globe: For it has been esteemed no uncommon passage to run from +hence to the eastermost parts of Asia in two months; and we flattered +ourselves that we were as capable of making an expeditious passage as +any ships that had ever run this course before us; so that we hoped +soon to gain the coast of China, for which we were now bound. And +conformable to the general idea of this navigation given by former +voyagers, we considered it as free from all kinds of embarrassment of +bad weather, fatigue, or sickness; and consequently we undertook it +with alacrity, especially as it was no contemptible step towards oar +arrival at our native country, for which many of us by this time began +to have great longings. Thus, on the 6th of May, we, for the last +time, lost sight of the mountains of Mexico, persuaded, that in a +few weeks we should arrive at the river of Canton in China, where +we expected to meet with many English ships, and numbers of our +countrymen; and hoped to enjoy the advantages of an amicable, +well-frequented port, inhabited by a polished people, and abounding +with the conveniences and indulgences of a civilized life, which for +near twenty months had never been once in our power. + +[It is judged advisable to omit altogether the next section of the +original, as occupied by mere reckoning on the advantages "which might +have been expected from the squadron, had it arrived in the South Seas +in good time." They are in part specified at the beginning.] + + + +SECTION XXIV. + +_The Run from the Coast of Mexico to the Ladrones or Marian Islands._ + +When we left the coast of America, we stood to the S.W. with a view +of meeting with the N.E. trade-wind, which the accounts of former +writers made us expect at seventy or eighty leagues distance from the +land: We had another reason for standing to the southward, which was +the getting into the latitude of 13 deg. or 14 deg. north; that being +the parallel where the Pacific Ocean is most usually crossed, and +consequently where the navigation is esteemed the safest: This last +purpose we had soon answered, being in a day or two sufficiently +advanced to the south. At the same time we were also farther from the +shore, than we had presumed was necessary for the falling in with +the trade-wind: But in this particular we were most grievously +disappointed; for the wind still continued to the westward, or at best +variable. As the getting into the N.E. trade-wind, was to us a matter +of the last consequence, we stood more to the southward, and made many +experiments to meet with it; but it was seven weeks, from our leaving +the coast, before we got into it. This was an interval, in which we +believed we should well nigh have reached the easternmost parts of +Asia: But we were so baffled with the contrary and variable winds, +which for all that time perplexed us, that we were not as yet advanced +above a fourth part of the way. The delay alone would have been a +sufficient mortification; but there were other circumstances +attending it, which rendered this situation not less terrible, and +our apprehensions perhaps still greater than in any of our past +distresses. For our two ships were by this time extremely crazy; +and many days had not passed, before we discovered a spring in the +fore-mast of the Centurion, which rounded about twenty-six inches of +its circumference, and which was judged to be at least four inches +deep: And no sooner had our carpenters secured this with fishing it, +but the Gloucester made a signal of distress; and we learnt that +she had a dangerous spring in her main-mast, twelve feet below the +trussel-trees; so that she could not carry any sail upon it. Our +carpenters, on a strict examination of this mast, found it so very +rotten and decayed, that they judged it necessary to cut it down as +low as it appeared to have been injured; and by this it was reduced to +nothing but a stump, which served only as a step to the topmast. These +accidents augmented our delay, and occasioned us great anxiety about +our future security: For on our leaving the coast of Mexico, the +scurvy had begun to make its appearance again amongst our people; +though from our departure from Juan Fernandes we had till then enjoyed +a most uninterrupted state of health. We too well knew the effects of +this disease, from our former fatal experience, to suppose that any +thing but a speedy passage could secure the greater part of our crew +from perishing by it: And as, after-being seven weeks at sea, there +did not appear any reasons that could persuade us we were nearer the +trade-wind than when we first set out, there was no ground for us to +suppose but our passage would prove at least three times as long as +we at first expected; and consequently we had the melancholy prospect, +either of dying by the scurvy, or perishing with the ship for want of +hands to navigate her. Indeed, some amongst us were at first willing +to believe, that in this warm climate, so different from what we felt +in passing round Cape Horn, the violence of this disease, and its +fatality, might be in some degree mitigated; as it had not been +unusual to suppose that its particular virulence in that passage +was in a great measure owing to the severity of the weather; but the +havock of the distemper, in our present circumstances, soon convinced +us of the falsity of this speculation; as it likewise exploded some +other opinions, which usually pass current about the cause and nature +of this disease.[1] + +[Footnote 1: Some remarks respecting the nature and treatment of +this disease are now given in the original, but being imperfect and +conjectural, are omitted here.--E.] + +Our surgeon (who, during our passage round Cape Horn, had ascribed the +mortality we suffered to the severity of the climate) exerted himself +in the present run to the utmost, and at last declared, that all his +measures were totally ineffectual, and did not in the least avail his +patients. When we reached the trade-wind, and it settled between the +north and the east, yet it seldom blew with so much strength, but +the Centurion might have carried all her small sails abroad with the +greatest safety; so that now, had we been a single ship, we might +have run down our longitude apace, and have reached the Ladrones soon +enough to have recovered great numbers of our men, who afterwards +perished. But the Gloucester, by the loss of her main-mast, sailed so +very heavily, that we had seldom any more than our top-sails set, and +yet were frequently obliged to lie to for her: And, I conceive, that +in the whole we lost little less than a month by our attendance upon +her, in consequence of the various mischances she encountered. In all +this run it was remarkable, that we were rarely many days together, +without seeing great numbers of birds; which is a proof that there +are many islands, or at least rocks, scattered all along, at no very +considerable distance from our track. Some indeed there are marked in +a Spanish chart; but the frequency of the birds seems to evince, +that there are many more than have been hitherto discovered: For the +greatest part of the birds we observed were such as are known to roost +on shore; and the manner of their appearance sufficiently made out, +that they came from some distant haunt every morning, and returned +thither again in the evening; for we never saw them early or late; +and the hour of their arrival and departure gradually varied, which we +supposed was occasioned by our running nearer their haunts, or getting +farther from them. + +The trade-wind continued to favour us without any fluctuation, from +the end of June till towards the end of July. But on the 26th of July, +being then, as we esteemed, about three hundred leagues distant from +the Ladrones, we met with a westerly wind, which did not come about +again to the eastward in four days time. This was a most dispiriting +incident, as it at once damped all our hopes of speedy relief, +especially too as it was attended with a vexatious accident to the +Gloucester: For in one part of these four days the wind-flatted to a +calm, and the ships rolled very deep; by which means the Gloucester's +forecap split, and her top-mast came by the board, and broke her +fore-yard directly in the slings. As she was hereby rendered incapable +of making any sail for some time, we were obliged, as soon as a gale +sprung up, to take her in tow; and near twenty of the healthiest and +ablest of our seamen were taken from the business of our own ship, and +were employed for eight or ten days together on board the Gloucester +in repairing her damages: But these things, mortifying as we thought +them, were but the beginning of our disasters; for scarce had our +people finished their business in the Gloucester, before we met with +a most violent storm in the western board, which obliged us to lie to. +In the beginning of this storm our ship sprung a leak, and let in +so much water, that all our people, officers included, were employed +continually in working the pumps: And the next day we had the vexation +to see the Gloucester, with her top-mast once more by the board; and +whilst we were viewing her with great concern for this new distress, +we saw her main-top mast, which had hitherto served as a jury +main-mast, share the same fate. This completed our misfortunes, and +rendered them without resource; for we knew the Gloucester's crew +were so few and feeble, that without our assistance they could not +be relieved: And our sick were now so far increased, and those that +remained in health so continually fatigued with the additional duty of +our pumps, that it was impossible for us to lend them any aid. Indeed +we were not as yet fully apprized of the deplorable situation of +the Gloucester's crew; for when the storm abated, (which during its +continuance prevented all communication with them) the Gloucester bore +up under our stern; and Captain Mitchel informed the commodore, that +besides the loss of his masts, which was all that had appeared to +us, the ship had then no less than seven feet of water in her hold, +although his officers and men had been kept constantly at the pump for +the last twenty-four hours. + +This last circumstance was indeed a most terrible accumulation to the +other extraordinary distresses of the Gloucester, and required, if +possible, the most speedy and vigorous assistance; which captain +Mitchel begged the commodore to send him: But the debility of our +people, and our own immediate preservation, rendered it impossible for +the commodore to comply with his request. All that could be done was +to send our boat on board for a more particular condition of the ship; +and it was soon suspected that the taking her people on board us, and +then destroying her, was the only measure that could be prosecuted in +the present emergency, for the security of their lives and our own. + +Our boat soon returned with a representation of the state of the +Gloucester, and of her several defects, signed by Captain Mitchel and +all his officers; by which it appeared, that she had sprung a leak by +the stern-post being loose, and working with every roll of the ship, +and by two beams a midships being broken in the orlope; no part of +which the carpenters reported was possible to be repaired at sea. That +both officers and men had worked twenty-four hours at the pump without +intermission, and were at length so fatigued, that they could continue +their labour no longer; but had been forced to desist, with seven feet +of water in the hold, which covered their cask, so that they could +neither come at fresh water, nor provision: That they had no mast +standing, except the fore-mast, the mizen-mast, and the mizen +top-mast, nor had they any spare masts to get up in the room of those +they had lost: That the ship was besides extremely decayed in every +part, for her knees and clamps were all worked quite loose, and her +upper works in general were so loose, that the quarter-deck was +ready to drop down: And that her crew was greatly reduced, for there +remained alive on board her no more than seventy-seven, men, eighteen +boys, and two prisoners, officers included; and that of this whole +number, only sixteen men and eleven boys were capable of keeping the +deck, and several of these very infirm. + +The commodore, on the perusal of this melancholy representation, +presently ordered them a supply of water and provisions, of which +they seemed to be in immediate want, and at the same time sent his +own carpenter on board them, to examine into the truth of every +particular; and it being found, on the strictest enquiry, that the +preceding account was in no instance exaggerated, it plainly appeared, +that there was no possibility of preserving the Gloucester any longer, +as her leaks were irreparable, and the united hands on board both +ships, capable of working, would not be able to free her, even if +our own ship should not employ any part of them. What then could be +resolved on, when it was the utmost we ourselves could do to manage +our own pumps? Indeed there was no room for deliberation; the only +step to be taken was, the saving the lives of the few that remained on +board the Gloucester, and getting out of her as much as was possible +before she was destroyed. And therefore the commodore immediately +sent an order to Captain Mitchel, as the weather was now calm and +favourable, to send his people on board the Centurion as expeditiously +as he could; and to take out such stores as he could get at, whilst +the ship could be kept above water. And as our leak required less +attention, whilst the present easy weather continued, we sent our +boats with as many men as we could spare, to Captain Mitchel's +assistance. + +The removing the Gloucester's people on board us, and the getting out +such stores as could most easily be come at, gave us full employment +for two days. Mr Anson was extremely desirous to have gotten two of +her cables and an anchor, but the ship rolled so much, and the men +were so excessively fatigued, that they were incapable of effecting +it; nay, it was even with the greatest difficulty that the +prize-money, which the Gloucester had taken in the South-Seas, was +secured, and sent on board the Centurion: However, the prize-goods +on board her, which amounted to several thousand pounds in value, and +were principally the Centurion's property, were entirely lost; nor +could any more provision be got out than five casks of flour, three +of which were spoiled by the salt-water. Their sick men, amounting +to near seventy, were removed into boats with as much care as the +circumstances of that time would permit; but three or four of them +expired as they were hoisting them into the Centurion. + +It was the 15th of August, in the evening, before the Gloucester was +cleared of every thing that was proposed to be removed; and though +the hold was now almost full of water, yet, as the carpenters were of +opinion that she might still swim for some time, if the calm should +continue, and the water become smooth, she was set on fire; for we +knew not how near we might now be to the island of Guam, which was in +the possession of our enemies, and the wreck of such a ship would have +been to them no contemptible acquisition. When she was set on fire, +Captain Mitchel and his officers left her, and came on board the +Centurion: And we immediately stood from the wreck, not without some +apprehensions (as we had now only a light breeze) that if she blew +up soon, the concussion of the air might damage our rigging; but she +fortunately burnt, though very fiercely, the whole night, her guns +firing successively, as the flames reached them. And it was six in the +morning, when we were about four leagues distant, before she blew up; +the report she made upon this occasion was but a small one, but there +was an exceeding black pillar of smoke, which shot up into the air to +a very considerable height. + +Thus perished his majesty's ship the Gloucester. And now it might have +been expected, that, being freed from, the embarrassments which her +frequent disasters had involved us in, we would proceed on our way +much brisker than, we had hitherto done, especially as we had received +some small addition to our strength, by the taking on board the +Gloucester's crew; but our anxieties were not yet to be relieved; for, +notwithstanding all that we had hitherto suffered, there remained much +greater distresses, which we were still to struggle with. For the late +storm, which had proved so fatal to the Gloucester, had driven us to +the northward of our intended course; and the current setting the same +way, after the weather abated, had forced us still a degree or two +farther, so that we were now in 17 deg. 1/4 of north latitude, instead of +being in 13 deg. 1/2, which was the parallel we proposed to keep, in order +to reach the island of Guam: And as it had been a perfect calm for +some days since the cessation of the storm, and we were ignorant how +near we were to the meridian of the Ladrones, and supposed ourselves +not to be far from it, we apprehended that we might be driven to the +leeward of them by the current, without discovering them: In this +case, the only land we could make would be some of the eastern parts +of Asia, where, if we could arrive, we should find the western monsoon +in its full force, so that it would be impossible for the stoutest +best-manned ship to get in. And this coast being removed between +four and five hundred leagues farther, we, in our languishing +circumstances, could expect no other than to be destroyed by the +scurvy, long before the most favourable gale could carry us to such a +distance: For our deaths were now extremely alarming, no day passing +in which we did not bury eight or ten, and sometimes twelve of our +men; and those, who had hitherto continued healthy, began to fall +down apace. Indeed we made the use we could of the present calm, by +employing our carpenters in searching after the leak, which was now +considerable, notwithstanding the little wind we had: The carpenters +at length discovered it to be in the gunner's fore store-room, where +the water rushed in under the breast-hook, on each side of the stein; +but though they found where it was, they agreed that it was impossible +to stop it, till we should get into port, and till they could come at +it on the outside: However, they did the best they could within board, +and were fortunate enough to reduce it, which was a considerable +relief to us. + +We had hitherto considered the calm which succeeded the storm, and +which continued for some days, as a very great misfortune; since the +currents were driving us to the northward of our parallel, and we +thereby risqued the missing of the Ladrones, which we now conceived +ourselves to be very near. But when a gale sprung up, our condition +was still worse; for it blew from the S.W. and consequently was +directly opposed to the course we wanted to steer: And though it +soon veered to the N.E. yet this served only to tantalize us, for it +returned back again in a very short time to its old quarter. However, +on the 22d of August we had the satisfaction to find that the +current was shifted; and had set us to the southward: And the 23d, at +day-break, we were cheered with the discovery of two islands in the +western board: This gave us all great joy, and raised our drooping +spirits; for before this an universal dejection had seized us, and +we almost despaired of ever seeing land again: The nearest of these +islands we afterwards found to be Anatacan; we judged it to be full +fifteen leagues from us, and it seemed to be high land, though of +an indifferent length: The other was the island of Serigan; and had +rather the appearance of a high rock, than a place we could hope to +anchor at. We were extremely impatient to get in with the nearest +island, where we expected to meet with anchoring-ground, and an +opportunity of refreshing our sick: But the wind proved so variable +all day, and there was so little of it, that we advanced towards it +but slowly; however, by the next morning we were got so far to the +westward, that we were in view of a third island, which was that of +Paxaros, though marked in the chart only as a rock. This was small and +very low land, and we had passed within less than a mile of it, in the +night, without seeing it: And now at noon, being within four miles +of the island of Anatacan, the boat was sent away to examine the +anchoring-ground and the produce of the place; and we were not a +little solicitous for her return, as we then conceived our fate to +depend upon the report we should receive: For the other two islands +were obviously enough incapable of furnishing us with any assistance, +and we knew not then that there were any others which we could reach. +In the evening the boat came back, and the crew informed us that there +was no place for a ship to anchor, the bottom being every where foul +ground, and all, except one small spot, not less than fifty fathom +in depth; that on that spot there was thirty fathom, though not above +half a mile from the shore; and that the bank was steep, and could +not be depended on: They farther told us, that they had landed on the +island, but with some difficulty, on account of the greatness of the +swell; that they found the ground was every where covered with a kind +of cane, or rush; but that they met with no water, and did not believe +the place to be inhabited; though the soil was good, and abounded with +groves of cocoa-nut trees. + +This account of the impossibility of anchoring at this island, +occasioned a general melancholy on board; for we considered it as +little less than the prelude to our destruction; and our despondency +was increased by a disappointment we met with the succeeding night; +for, as we were plying under top-sails, with an intention of getting +nearer to the island, and of sending our boat on shore to load with +cocoa-nuts for the refreshment of our sick, the wind proved squally, +and blew so strong off shore, as to drive us so far to the southward, +that we dared not to send off our boat. And now the only possible +circumstance, that could secure the few that remained alive from +perishing, was the accidental falling in with some other of the +Ladrone islands, better prepared for our accommodation; and as our +knowledge of these islands was extremely imperfect, we were to trust +entirely to chance for our guidance; only as they are all of them +usually laid down near the same meridian, and we had conceived those +we had already seen to be part of them, we concluded to stand to the +southward, as the most probable means of falling in with the next. +Thus, with the most gloomy persuasion of our approaching destruction, +we stood from the island of Anatacon, having all of us the strongest +apprehensions (and those not ill founded) either of dying of the +scurvy, or of perishing with the ship, which, for want of hands to +work her pumps, might in a short time be expected to founder. + + + +SECTION XXV. + +_Our Arrival at Tinian, and an Account of the Island, and of our +Proceedings there, till the Centurion drove out to Sea._ + +It was the 26th of August, 1742, in the morning, when we lost sight +of Anatacan. The next morning we discovered three other islands to the +eastward, which were from ten to fourteen leagues from us. These were, +as we afterwards learnt, the islands of Saypan, Tinian, and Aguigan. +We immediately steered towards Tinian, which was the middlemost of the +three, but had so much of calms and light airs, that though we were +helped forwards by the currents, yet next day, at day-break, we were +at least five leagues distant from it. However, we kept on our course, +and about ten in the morning we perceived a proa under sail to the +southward, between Tinian and Aguigan. As we imagined from hence that +these islands were inhabited, and knew that the Spaniards had always a +force at Guam, we took the necessary precautions for our own security, +and for preventing the enemy from taking advantage of our present +wretched circumstances, of which they would be sufficiently informed +by the manner of our working the ship; we therefore mustered all our +hands, who were capable of standing to their arms, and loaded our +upper and quarter-deck guns with grape-shot; and, that we might the +more readily procure some intelligence of the state of these +islands, we showed Spanish colours, and hoisted a red flag at the +fore-top-masthead, to give our ship the appearance of the Manilla +galleon, hoping thereby to decoy some of the inhabitants on board us. +Thus preparing ourselves, and standing towards the land, we were near +enough, at three in the afternoon, to send the cutter in shore, to +find out a proper birth for the ship; and we soon perceived that a +proa came off the shore to meet the cutter, fully persuaded, as we +afterwards found, that we were the Manilla ship. As we saw the cutter +returning back with the proa in tow, we immediately sent the pinnace +to receive the proa and the prisoners, and to bring them on board, +that the cutter might proceed on her errand. The pinnace came back +with a Spaniard and four Indians, which were the people taken in the +proa. The Spaniard was immediately examined as to the produce +and circumstances of this island of Tinian, and his account of it +surpassed even our most sanguine hopes; for he informed us that it +was uninhabited, which, in our present defenceless condition, was an +advantage not to be despised, especially as it wanted but few of the +conveniences that could be expected in the most cultivated country; +for he assured us, that there was great plenty of very good water, +and that there were an incredible number of cattle, hogs, and poultry +running wild on the island, all of them excellent in their kind; +that the woods produced sweet and sour oranges, limes, lemons, and +cocoa-nuts in great plenty, besides a fruit peculiar to these islands +(called by Dampier, Bread-fruit); that from the quantity and goodness +of the provisions produced here, the Spaniards at Guam made use of it +as a store for supplying the garrison; that he himself was a serjeant +of that garrison, and was sent here with twenty-two Indians to jerk +beef, which he was to load for Guam on board a small bark of about +fifteen tun, which lay at anchor near the shore. + +This account was received by us with inexpressible joy: Part of it +we were ourselves able to verify on the spot, as we were by this time +near enough to discover several numerous herds of cattle feeding in +different places of the island; and we did not any ways doubt the rest +of his relation, as the appearance of the shore prejudiced us greatly +in its favour, and made us hope, that not only our necessities might +be there fully relieved, and our diseased recovered, but that, amidst +those pleasing scenes which were then in view, we might procure +ourselves some amusement and relaxation, after the numerous fatigues +we had undergone: For the prospect of the country did by no means +resemble that of an uninhabited and uncultivated place, but had +much more the air of a magnificent plantation, where large lawns and +stately woods had been laid out together with great skill, and where +the whole had been so artfully combined, and so judiciously adapted +to the slopes of the hills, and the inequalities of the ground, as to +produce a most striking effect, and to do honour to the invention of +the contriver. Thus (an event not unlike what we had already seen) +we were forced upon the most desirable and salutary measures by +accidents, which at first sight we considered as the greatest of +misfortunes; for had we not been driven by the contrary winds and +currents to the northward of our course (a circumstance which at +that time gave us the most terrible apprehensions) we should, in +all probability, never have arrived at this delightful island, and +consequently we should have missed of that place, where alone all +our wants could be most amply relieved, our sick recovered, and our +enfeebled crew once more refreshed, and enabled to put again to sea. + +The Spanish serjeant, from whom we received the account of the island, +having informed us that there were some Indians on shore under his +command, employed in jerking beef, and that there was a bark at anchor +to take it on board, we were desirous, if possible, to prevent the +Indians from escaping, who doubtless would have given the governor +of Guam intelligence of our arrival; and we therefore immediately +dispatched the pinnace to secure the bark, which the serjeant told us +was the only embarkation on the place; and then, about eight in the +evening, we let go our anchor in twenty-two fathom; and though it was +almost calm, and whatever vigour and spirit was to be found on board +was doubtless exerted to the utmost on this pleasing occasion, when, +after having kept the sea for some months, we were going to take +possession of this little paradise, yet we were full five hours in +furling our sails: It is true, we were somewhat weakened by the crews +of the cutter and pinnace having been sent on shore; but it is not +less true, that, including those absent with the boats and some +negro and Indian prisoners, all the hands we could muster capable of +standing at a gun amounted to no more than seventy-one, most of which +number too were incapable of duty; but on the greatest emergencies +this was all the force we could collect, in our present enfeebled +condition, from the united crews of the Centurion, the Gloucester, and +the Tryal, which, when we departed from England, consisted altogether +of near a thousand hands. + +When we had furled our sails, the remaining part of the night was +allowed to our people for their repose, to recover them from the +fatigue they had undergone; and in the morning a party was sent on +shore well armed, of which I myself was one, to make ourselves masters +of the landing place, as we were not certain what opposition might be +made by the Indians on the island: We landed without difficulty, for +the Indians having perceived, by our seizure of the bark the night +before, that we were enemies, they immediately fled into the woody +parts of the island. We found on shore many huts which they had +inhabited, and which saved us both the time and trouble of erecting +tents; one of these huts which the Indians made use of for a +storehouse was very large, being twenty yards long, and fifteen broad; +this we immediately cleared of some bales of jerked beef, which we +found in it, and converted it into an hospital for our sick, who as +soon as the place was ready to receive them were brought on shore, +being in all a hundred and twenty-eight: Numbers of these were so +very helpless that we were obliged to carry them from the boats to the +hospital upon our shoulders, in which humane employment (as before at +Juan Fernandes) the commodore himself, and every one of his officers, +were engaged without distinction; and, notwithstanding the great +debility and the dying aspects of the greatest part of our sick, it is +almost incredible how soon they began to feel the salutary influence +of the land; for, though we buried twenty-one men on this and the +preceeding day, yet we did not lose above ten men more during our +whole two months stay here; and in general, our diseased received so +much benefit from the fruits of the island, particularly the fruits of +the acid kind, that, in a week's time, there were but few who were not +so far recovered, as to be able to move about without help.[2] + +[Footnote 2: The description of this beautiful island, and its most +desirable productions, is deferred till we come to the voyage of +Commodore Byron, who visited it in 1765.--E.] + +Whilst we were employed in the removal of our sick on shore, four of +the Indians, being part of the Spanish serjeant's detachment, came and +surrendered themselves to us, so that with those we took in the +proa, we had now eight of them in our custody. One of the four, who +submitted, undertook to show us the most convenient place for killing +cattle, and two of our men were ordered to attend him on that service; +but one of them unwarily trusting the Indian with his firelock and +pistol, the Indian escaped with them into the woods: His countrymen, +who remained behind, were apprehensive of suffering for this perfidy +of their comrade, and therefore begged leave to send one of their own +party into the country, who they engaged should both bring back the +arms, and persuade the whole detachment from Guam to submit to us. +The commodore granted their request; and one of them was dispatched on +this errand, who returned next day, and brought back the firelock +and pistol, but assured us, he had met with them in a path-way in the +wood, and protested that he had not been able to meet with any one of +his countrymen: This report had so little the air of truth, that we +suspected there was some treachery carrying on, and therefore, to +prevent any future communication amongst them, we immediately ordered +all the Indians who were in our power on board the ship, and did not +permit them to return any more on shore. + +When our sick were well settled on the island, we employed all the +hands that could be spared from attending them; in arming the cables +with a good rounding, several fathom from the anchor, to secure them +from being rubbed by the coral rocks, which here abounded: And this +being completed, our next attention was our leak, and in order to +raise it out of water, we, on the first of September, began to get the +guns aft to bring the ship by the stern; and now the carpenters, being +able to come at it on the outside, ripped off the old sheathing that +was left, and caulked all the seams on both sides the cut-water, and +leaded them over, and then new-sheathed the bows to the surface of the +water: By this means we conceived the defect was sufficiently secured; +but upon our beginning to bring the guns into their places, we had the +mortification to perceive, that the water rushed into the ship in +the old place, with as much violence as ever: Hereupon we were +necessitated to begin again; and that our second attempt might be +more effectual, we cleared the fore store-room, and sent a hundred and +thirty barrels of powder on board the small Spanish bark we had seized +here, by which means we raised the ship about three feet out of the +water forwards, and the carpenters ripped off the sheathing lower +down, and new caulked all the seams, and afterwards laid on new +sheathing; and then, supposing the leak lobe effectually stopped, we +began to move the guns forwards; but the upper deck guns were scarcely +in their places, when, to our amazement, it burst out again; and now, +as we durst not cut away the lining within board, lest a but-end or a +plank might start, and we might go down immediately, we had no other +resource left than chincing and caulking within board; and indeed by +this means the leak was stopped for some time; but when our guns were +all in their places, and our stores were taken on board, the water +again forced its way through a hole in the stem, where one of the +bolts was driven in; and on this we desisted from all farther efforts, +being now well assured, that the defect was in the stem itself, and +that it was not to be remedied till we should have an opportunity of +heaving down. + +Towards the middle of September, several of our sick were tolerably +recovered by their residence on shore; and, on the 12th of September, +all those who were so far relieved, since their arrival, as to be +capable of doing duty, were sent on board the ship: And then the +commodore, who was himself ill of the scurvy, had a tent erected for +him on shore, where he went with the view of staying a few days for +the recovery of his health, being convinced, by the general experience +of his people, that no other method but living on the land was to be +trusted to for the removal of this dreadful malady. The place, where +his tent was pitched on this occasion, was near the well, whence we +got all our water, and was indeed a most elegant spot. As the crew +on board were now reinforced by the recovered hands returned from the +island, we began to send our cask on shore to be fitted up, which till +now could not be done, for the coopers were not well enough to work. +We likewise weighed our anchors, that we might examine our cables, +which we suspected had by this time received considerable damage. +And as the new moon was now approaching, when we apprehended violent +gales, the commodore, for our greater security, ordered that part +of the cables next to the anchors to be armed with the chains of the +fire-grapnels; and they were besides cackled twenty fathom from the +anchors, and seven fathom from the service, with a good rounding of +a 41/2 inch hawser; and to all these precautions we added that of +lowering the main and fore-yard close down, that in case of blowing +weather the wind might have less power upon the ship, to make her ride +a strain. + +Thus effectually prepared, as we conceived, we expected the new moon, +which was the 18th of September, and riding safe that and the +three succeeding days, (though the weather proved very squally and +uncertain) we flattered ourselves (for I was then on board) that the +prudence of our measures had secured us from all accidents; but, on +the 22d, the wind blew from the eastward with such fury, that we soon +despaired of riding out the storm; and therefore we should have been +extremely glad that the commodore and the rest of our people on shore, +which were the greatest part of our hands, had been on board with +us, since our only hopes of safety seemed to depend on our putting +immediately to sea; but all communication with the shore was now +effectually cut off, for there was no possibility that a boat could +live, so that we were necessitated to ride it out, till our cables +parted. Indeed it was not long before this happened, for the small +bower parted at five in the afternoon, and the ship swung off to the +best bower; and as the night came on, the violence of the wind still +increased; but notwithstanding its inexpressible fury, the tide ran +with so much rapidity, as to prevail over it; for the tide having set +to the northward in the beginning of the storm, turned suddenly to the +southward about six in the evening, and forced the ship before it in +despight of the storm, which blew upon the beam: And now the sea broke +most surprisingly all round us, and a large tumbling swell threatened +to poop us; the long-boat, which was at this time moored a-stern, +was on a sudden canted so high, that it broke the transom of the +commodore's gallery, whose cabin was on the quarter-deck, and would +doubtless have risen as high as the tafferel, had it not been for this +stroke which stove the boat all to pieces; but the poor boat-keeper, +though extremely bruised, was saved almost by miracle. About eight +the tide slackened, but the wind did not abate; so that at eleven, the +best bower-cable, by which alone we rode, parted. Our sheet-anchor, +which was the only one we had left, was instantly cut from the bow; +but before it could reach the bottom, we were driven from twenty-two +into thirty-five fathom; and after we had veered away one whole cable, +and two-thirds of another, we could not find ground with sixty fathom +of line: This was a plain indication, that the anchor lay near the +edge of the bank, and could not hold us. In this pressing danger, Mr +Sanmarez, our first lieutenant, who now commanded on board, ordered +several guns to be fired, and lights to be shown, as a signal to the +commodore of our distress; and in a short time after, it being then +about one o'clock, and the night excessively dark, a strong gust, +attended with rain and lightning, drove us off the bank, and forced us +out to sea, leaving behind us, on the island, Mr Anson, with many more +of our officers, and great part of our crew, amounting in the whole to +an hundred and thirteen persons. Thus were we all, both at sea and +on shore, reduced to the utmost despair by this catastrophe, those on +shore conceiving they had no means left them ever to leave the island, +and we on board utterly unprepared to struggle with the fury of the +seas and winds we were now exposed to, and expecting each moment, to +be our last. + + + +SECTION XXVI. + +_Transactions at Tinian after the Departure of the Centurion._ + +The storm, which drove the Centurion to sea, blew with too much +turbulence to permit either the commodore or any of the people on +shore bearing the guns, which she fired as signals of distress; and +the frequent glare of the lightning had prevented the explosions from +being observed: So that, when at day-break, it was perceived from the +shore that the ship was missing, there was the utmost consternation +amongst them: For much the greatest part of them immediately concluded +that she, was lost, and entreated the commodore that the boat might +be sent round the island to look for the wreck; and those who believed +her safe, had scarcely any expectation that she would ever be able to +make the island again: For the wind continued to blow strong at east, +and they knew how poorly she was manned and provided for struggling +with so tempestuous a gale. And if the Centurion was lost, or should +be incapable of returning, there appeared no possibility of their ever +getting off the island; For they were at least six hundred leagues +from Macao, which was their nearest port; and they were masters of no +other vessel than the small Spanish bark, of about fifteen tun, which +they seized at their first arrival, and which would not even hold a +fourth part of their number: And the chance of their being taken off +the island by the casual arrival of any ship was altogether desperate; +as perhaps no European ship had ever anchored here before, and it +were madness to expect that like incidents should send another in an +hundred ages to come: So that their desponding thoughts could only +suggest to them the melancholy prospect of spending the remainder +of their days on this island, and bidding adieu for ever to their +country, their friends, their families, and all their domestic +endearments. + +Nor was this the worst they had to fear: For they had reason to +expect, that the governor of Guam, when he should be informed of their +situation, might send a force sufficient to overpower them, and to +remove them to that island; and then, the most favourable treatment +they could hope for would be to be detained prisoners for life; since, +from the known policy and cruelty of the Spaniards in their distant +settlements, it was rather to be expected, that the governor, if he +once had them in his power, would make their want of commissions (all +of them being on board the Centurion) a pretext for treating them, as +pirates, and for depriving them of their lives with infamy. + +In the midst of these gloomy reflections, Mr Anson had his share of +disquietude; but he kept up his usual composure and steadiness: And +having soon projected a scheme for extricating himself and his men +from their present anxious situation, he first communicated it to some +of the most intelligent; and being satisfied that it was practicable, +he then endeavoured to animate his people to a speedy and vigorous +prosecution of it. With this view he represented to them, how little +foundation there was for their apprehensions of the Centurion's being +lost: That he should have hoped, they had been all of them better +acquainted with sea-affairs, than to give way to the impression of so +chimerical a fright; and that he doubted not, if they would seriously +consider what such a ship was capable of enduring, they would confess +that there was not the least probability of her having perished: That +he was not without hopes that she might return in a few days; but if +she did not, the worst that could be supposed was, that she was driven +so far to the leeward of the island that she could not regain it, and +that she would consequently be obliged to bear away for Macao on the +coast of China: That as it was necessary to be prepared against all +events, he had, in this case, considered of a method of carrying them +off the island, and joining their old ship the Centurion again at +Macao: That this method was to hale the Spanish bark on shore, to saw +her asunder, and to lengthen her twelve feet, which would enlarge her +to near forty tun burthen, and would enable her to carry them all to +China: That he had consulted the carpenters, and they had agreed +that this proposal was very feasible, and that nothing was wanting to +execute it, but the united resolution and industry of the whole body: +He added, that, for his own part, he would share the fatigue and +labour with them, and would expect no more from any man than what he +himself was ready to submit to; he concluded with representing to them +the importance of saving time; and that, in order to be the better +prepared for all events, it was necessary to set to work immediately, +and to take it for granted, that the Centurion would not be able to +put back (which was indeed the commodore's secret opinion;) since, if +she did return, they should only throw away a few days application; +but, if she did not, their situation, and the season of the year, +required their utmost dispatch. + +These remonstrances, though not without effect, did not immediately +operate so powerfully as Mr Anson wished: He indeed raised their +spirits, by showing them the possibility of their getting away, of +which they had before despaired; but then, from their confidence of +this resource, they grew less apprehensive of their situation, gave +a greater scope to their hopes, and flattered themselves that the +Centurion would return and prevent the execution of the commodore's +scheme, which they could easily foresee would be a work of +considerable labour. By this means, it was some days before they were +all of them heartily engaged in the project; but at last, being in +general convinced of the impossibility of the ship's return, they set +themselves zealously to the different tasks allotted them, and were as +industrious and as eager as their commander could desire, punctually +assembling at day-break at the rendezvous, whence they were +distributed to their different employments, which they followed with +unusual vigour till night came on. + +And here I must interrupt the course of this transaction for a moment, +to relate an incident which for some time gave Mr Anson more concern +than all the preceding disasters. A few days after the ship was driven +off, some of the people on shore cried out, A sail. This spread a +general joy, every one supposing that it was the ship returning; but +presently a second sail was descried, which quite destroyed their +conjecture, and made it difficult to guess what they were. The +commodore eagerly turned his glass towards them, and saw they were two +boats; on which it immediately occurred to him that the Centurion was +gone to the bottom, and that these were her two boats coming back with +the remains of her people; and this sudden and unexpected suggestion +wrought on him so powerfully, that, to conceal his emotion, he was +obliged (without speaking to any one) instantly to retire to his tent, +where he past some bitter moments, in the firm belief that the ship +was lost, and that now all his views of farther distressing the enemy, +and of still signalizing his expedition by some important exploit, +were at an end. + +But he was soon relieved from these disturbing thoughts, by +discovering that the two boats in the offing were Indian proas, +and, perceiving that they stood towards the shore, he directed every +appearance that could give them any suspicion to be removed, and +concealed his people in the adjacent thickets, prepared to secure +the Indians when they should land; but, after the proas had stood in +within a quarter of a mile of the land, they suddenly stopt short, +and remaining there motionless for near two hours, they then made +sail again, and stood to the southward.--To return to the projected +enlargement of the bark. + +If we examine how they were prepared for going through with this +undertaking, on which their safely depended, we shall find, that, +independent of other matters which were of as much importance, the +lengthening of the bark alone was attended with great difficulty. +Indeed, in a proper place, where all the necessary materials and tools +were to be had, the embarrassment would have been much less; but +some of these tools were to be made, and many of the materials were +wanting; and it required no small degree of invention to supply all +these deficiences. And when the hull of the bark should be completed, +this was but one article; and there were many others of equal weight, +which were to be well considered: These were the rigging it, the +victualling it, and, lastly, the navigating it, for the space of six +or seven hundred leagues, through unknown seas, where no one of the +company had ever passed before. In some of these particulars +such obstacles occurred, that, without the intervention of very +extraordinary and unexpected accidents, the possibility of the whole +enterprise would have fallen to the ground, and their utmost industry +and efforts must have been fruitless. Of all these circumstances I +shall make a short recital. + +It fortunately happened that the carpenters, both of the Gloucester +and of the Tryal, with their chests of tools, were on shore when the +ship drove out to sea; the smith, too, was on shore, and had with +him his forge and some tools, but unhappily his bellows had not +been brought from on board, so that he was incapable of working, +and without his assistance they could not hope to proceed with their +design; their first attention, therefore, was to make him a pair of +bellows, but in this they were for some time puzzled, by their want of +leather; however, as they had hides in sufficient plenty, and they had +found a hogshead of lime, which the Indians or Spaniards had prepared +for their own use, they tanned some hides with this lime; and though +we may suppose the workmanship to be but indifferent, yet the leather +they thus made served tolerably well, and the bellows (to which a +gun-barrel served for a pipe) had no other inconvenience than that of +being somewhat strong-scented from the imperfection of the tanner's +work. + +Whilst the smith was preparing the necessary iron work, others were +employed in cutting down trees, and sawing them into plank, and this +being the most laborious task, the commodore himself wrought at it +for the encouragement of his people. As there were neither blocks +nor cordage sufficient for tackles to hale the bark on shore, it +was proposed to get her up on rollers; and for these the body of the +cocoa-nut tree was extremely useful, for its smoothness and circular +turn prevented much labour, and fitted it for the purpose with very +little workmanship; many of these trees were therefore felled, and the +ends of them properly opened for the reception of hand-spikes; and +in the mean time a dry dock was dug for the bark, and ways laid from +thence quite into the sea to facilitate the bringing her up. Besides +those who were thus occupied in preparing measures for the future +enlargement of the bark, a party was constantly ordered for the +killing and preparing of provisions for the rest: And though in these +various employments, some of which demanded considerable dexterity, +it might have been expected there would have been great confusion and +delay, yet good order being once established, and all hands engaged, +their preparations advanced apace. Indeed, the common men, I presume, +were not the less tractable for their want of spirituous liquors; +for, there being neither wine nor brandy on shore, the juice of +the cocoa-nut was their constant drink, and this, though extremely +pleasant, was not at all intoxicating, but kept them very cool and +orderly. + +And now the officers began to consider of all the articles necessary +for the fitting out the bark; when it was found, that the tents on +shore, and the spare cordage accidentally left there by the Centurion, +together with the sails and rigging already belonging to the bark, +would serve to rig her indifferently well, when she was lengthened. +As they had tallow in plenty, they proposed to pay her bottom with +a mixture of tallow and lime, which it was known was well adapted to +that purpose; so that with respect to her equipment, she would not +have been very defective. There was, however, one exception, which +would have proved extremely inconvenient, and that was her size; for +as they could not make her quite forty tun burthen, she would have +been incapable of containing half the crew below the deck, and must +have been so top-heavy, that if they were all at the same time on +deck, there would be no small hazard of her oversetting; but this was +a difficulty not to be removed, as they could not augment her beyond +the size already proposed. After the manner of rigging and fitting up +the bark was considered and regulated, the next essential point to be +thought on was, how to procure a sufficient stock of provisions for +their voyage; and here they were greatly at a loss what course to +take; for they had neither grain nor bread of any kind on shore, their +bread-fruit, which would not keep at sea, having all along supplied +its place; and though they had live cattle enough, yet they had no +salt to cure beef for a sea-store, nor would meat take salt in that +climate. Indeed, they had preserved a small quantity of jerked beef, +which they found upon the place at their landing, but this was greatly +disproportioned to the run of near six hundred leagues, which they +were to engage in, and to the number of hands they should have on +board. It was at last, however, resolved to take on board as many +cocoa-nuts as they possibly could; to make the most of their jerked +beef, by a very sparing distribution of it, and to endeavour to supply +their want of bread by rice; to furnish themselves with which, it was +proposed, when the bark was fitted up, to make an expedition to the +island of Rota, where they were told that the Spaniards had large +plantations of rice under the care of the Indian inhabitants: But as +this last measure was to be executed by force, it became necessary +to examine what ammunition had been left on shore, and to preserve it +carefully; and on this enquiry, they had the mortification to find, +that the utmost that could be collected, by the strictest search, did +not amount to more than ninety charges of powder for their firelocks, +which was considerably short of one a-piece for each of the company, +and was indeed a very slender stock of ammunition, for such as were +to eat no grain or bread for a month, but what they were to procure by +force of arms. + +But the most alarming circumstance, and what, without the providential +interposition of very improbable events, had rendered all their +schemes abortive, remains yet to be related. The general idea of the +fabric and equipment of the vessel was settled in a few days, and when +this was done, it was not difficult to make some estimation of the +time necessary to complete her. After this, it was natural to expect +that the officers would consider on the course they were to steer, +and the land they were to make. These reflections led them to the +disheartening discovery, that there was neither compass nor quadrant +on the island. Indeed, the commodore had brought a pocket compass +on shore for his own use, but Lieutenant Brett had borrowed it to +determine the position of the neighbouring islands, and he had been +driven to sea in the Centurion, without returning it; and as to a +quadrant, that could not be expected to be found on shore, for as it +was of no use at land, there could be no reason for bringing it +from on board the ship. It was eight days, from the departure of the +Centurion, before they were relieved from this terrible perplexity: At +last, in rummaging a chest belonging to the Spanish bark, they found a +small compass, which, though little better than the toys usually made +for the amusement of school-boys, was to them an invaluable treasure. +And a few days after, by a similar piece of good fortune, they found +a quadrant on the sea-shore, which had been thrown overboard amongst +other lumber belonging to the dead: The quadrant was eagerly seized, +but it unluckily wanted vanes, and therefore, in its present state, +was altogether useless; however, fortune still continuing in a +favourable mood, it was not long before a person, out of curiosity, +pulling out the drawer of an old table, which had been driven on +shore, found some vanes, which fitted the quadrant very well; and it +being thus completed, it was examined by the known latitude of the +place, and found to answer to a sufficient degree of exactness. + +All these obstacles being in some degree removed (which were always as +much as possible concealed from the vulgar, that they might not grow +remiss with the apprehension of labouring to no purpose,) the work +proceeded very successfully and vigorously: The necessary iron-work +was in great forwardness; and the timbers and planks (which, though +not the most exquisite performances of the sawyer's art, were yet +sufficient for the purpose,) were all prepared; so that on the 6th of +October, being the 14th day from the departure of the ship, they +haled the bark on shore, and, on the two succeeding days, she was sawn +asunder (though with great care not to cut her planks,) and her two +parts were separated the proper distance from each other, and, the +materials being all ready before-hand, they, the next day, being +the 9th of October, went on with great dispatch in their proposed +enlargement of her; and by this time they had all their future +operations so fairly in view, and were so much masters of them, that +they were able to determine when the whole would be finished, and had +accordingly fixed the 5th of November for the day of their putting +to sea. But their projects and labours were drawing to a speedier and +happier conclusion; for on the 11th of October, in the afternoon, +one of the Gloucester's men, being upon a hill in the middle of the +island, perceived the Centurion at a distance, and running down with +his utmost speed towards the landing-place, he, in the way, saw some +of his comrades, to whom he hallooed out with extacy, The ship, the +ship! This being heard by Mr Gordon, a lieutenant of marines, who +was convinced by the fellow's transport that his report was true, Mr +Gordon ran towards the place where the commodore and his people +were at work, and being fresh and in breath, easily outstripped the +Gloucester's man, and got before him to the commodore, who, on hearing +this happy and unexpected news, threw down his axe with which he was +then at work, and by his joy broke through, for the first time, the +equable and unvaried character which he had hitherto preserved; the +others, who were with him, instantly ran down to the sea-side in a +kind of frenzy, eager to feast themselves with a sight they had so +ardently wished for, and of which they had now for a considerable time +despaired. By five in the evening the Centurion was visible in the +offing to them all; and, a boat being sent off with eighteen men to +reinforce her, and with fresh meat and fruits for the refreshment of +her crew, she, the next afternoon, happily came to an anchor in the +road, when the commodore immediately went on board, and was received +with the sincerest and heartiest acclamations: For, from the following +short recital of the fears, the dangers and fatigues we in the ship +underwent during our nineteen days absence from Tinian, it may be +easily conceived, that a harbour, refreshments, repose, and the +joining of our commander and shipmates, were not less pleasing to us +than our return was to them. + + + +SECTION XXVII. + +_Account of the Proceedings on board the Centurion when driven out to +Sea._ + +The Centurion being now once more safely arrived at Tinian, to the +mutual respite of the labours of our divided crew, it is high time +that the reader, after the relation already given of the projects and +employment of those left on shore, should be apprised of the fatigues +and distresses to which we, who were driven off to sea, were exposed +during the long interval of nineteen, days that we were absent from +the island. + +It has been already mentioned, that it was the 22d of September, about +one o'clock, in an extreme dark night, when, by the united violence of +a prodigious storm, and an exceeding rapid tide, we were driven from +our anchors and forced to sea. Our condition was truly deplorable; we +were in a leaky ship, with three cables in our hawses, to one of which +hung our only remaining anchor; we had not a gun on board lashed, nor +a port barred in; our shrowds were loose, and our top-masts unrigged, +and we had struck our fore and main-yards close down, before the storm +came on, so that there were no sails we could set, except our mizen. +In this dreadful extremity we could muster no more strength on board +to navigate the ship, than an hundred and eight hands, several +negroes and Indians included: This was scarcely the fourth part of our +complement, and of these the greater number were either boys, or such +as, being lately recovered from the scurvy, had not yet arrived at +half their vigour. No sooner were we at sea, but by the violence of +the storm, and the working of the ship, we made a great quantity of +water through our hawse-holes, ports, and scuppers, which, added to +the constant effect of our leak, rendered our pumps alone a sufficient +employment for us all: But though this leakage, by being a short time +neglected, would inevitably end in our destruction, yet we had other +dangers then impending, which occasioned this to be regarded as a +secondary consideration only. For we all imagined that we were driving +directly on the neighbouring island of Aguiguan, which was about two +leagues distant; and as we had lowered our main and fore-yards close +down, we had no sails we could set but the mizen, which was altogether +insufficient to carry us clear of this instant peril; we therefore +immediately applied ourselves to work, endeavouring, by the utmost of +our efforts, to heave up the main and fore-yards, in hopes that, if +we could but be enabled to make use of our lower canvass, we might +possibly weather the island, and thereby save ourselves from this +impending shipwreck. But after full three hours ineffectual labour, +the jeers broke, and the men being quite jaded, we were obliged, by +mere debility, to desist, and quietly to expect our fate, which we +then conceived to be unavoidable: For we imagined ourselves by this +time to be driven just upon the shore, and the night was so extremely +dark, that we expected to discover the island no otherwise than by +striking upon it; so that the belief of our destruction, and the +uncertainly of the point of time when it would take place, occasioned +us to pass several hours under the most serious apprehensions, that +each succeeding moment would send us to the bottom. Nor did these +continued terrors of instantly striking and sinking end but with the +day-break, when we, with great transport, perceived that the island +we had thus dreaded was at a considerable distance, and that a strong +northern current had been the cause of our preservation. + +The turbulent weather which forced us from Tinian, did not begin to +abate till three days after; and then we swayed up the fore-yard, and +began to heave up the main-yard, but the jeers broke and killed one of +our men, and prevented us at that time from proceeding. The next day, +being the 26th of September, was a day of most severe fatigue to us +all; for it must be remembered, that in these exigences no rank or +office exempted any person from the manual application and bodily +labour of a common sailor. The business of this day was no less than +an attempt to heave up the sheet-anchor, which we had hitherto +dragged at our bows with two cables an end. This was a work of +great importance to our future preservation: For, not to mention the +impediment to our navigation, and the hazard it would be to our ship, +if we attempted to make sail with the anchor in its present situation, +we had this most interesting consideration to animate us, that it was +the only anchor we had left; and, without securing it, we should be +under the utmost difficulties and hazards, whenever we made the +land again; and therefore, being all of us fully apprized of the +consequence of this enterprize, we laboured at it with the severest +application for full twelve hours, when we had indeed made a +considerable progress, having brought the anchor in sight; but, it +then growing dark, and we being excessively fatigued, we were obliged +to desist, and to leave our work unfinished till the next morning, +when, by the benefit of a night's rest, we completed it, and hung the +anchor at our bow. + +It was the 27th of September in the morning, that is, five days after +our departure, when we thus secured our anchor; And the same day we +got up our main-yard: And having now conquered in some degree the +distress and disorder which we were necessarily involved in at +our first driving out to sea, and being enabled to make use of our +canvass, we set our courses, and for the first time stood to the +eastward, in hopes of regaining the island of Tinian, and joining +our commodore in a few days: For we were then, by our accounts, only +forty-seven leagues to the south-west of Tinian; so that on the first +day of October, having then run the distance necessary for making +the island according to our reckoning, we were in full expectation +of seeing it; but we were unhappily disappointed, and were thereby +convinced that a current had driven us to the westward. And as +we could not judge how much we might hereby have deviated, and +consequently how long we might still expect to be at sea, we had great +apprehensions that our stock of water might prove deficient; for we +were doubtful about the quantity we had on board, and found many +of our casks so decayed, as to be half leaked out. However, we were +delivered from our uncertainty the next day by having a sight of the +island of Guam, by which we discovered that the currents had driven us +forty-four leagues to the westward of our accounts. This sight of land +having satisfied us of our situation, we kept plying to the eastward, +though with excessive labour, for the wind continuing fixed in the +eastern board, we were obliged to tack often, and our crew were so +weak, that, without the assistance of every man on board, it was not +in our power to put the ship about: This severe employment lasted +till the 11th of October, being the nineteenth day from our departure; +when, arriving in the offing of Tinian, we were reinforced from the +shore, as hath been already mentioned; and on the evening of the same +day, to our inexpressible joy, came to an anchor in the road, thereby +procuring to our shipmates on shore, as well as to ourselves, a +cessation from the fatigues and apprehensions which this disastrous +incident had given rise to. + + + +SECTION XXVIII. + +_Of our Employment at Tinian, till the final Departure of the +Centurion, and of the Voyage to Macao._[1] + +The commodore resolved to stay no longer at the island than was +absolutely necessary to complete our stock of water, a work which we +immediately set ourselves about. But the loss of our long-boat, which +was staved against our poop when we were driven out to sea, put us +to great inconveniences in getting our water on board: For we were +obliged to raft off all our cask, and the tide ran so strong, that, +besides the frequent delays and difficulties it occasioned, we more +than once lost the whole raft. Nor was this our only misfortune; for, +on the third day after our arrival, a sudden gust of wind brought home +our anchor, forced us off the bank, and drove the ship out to sea a +second time. The commodore, it is true, and the principal officers, +were now on board; but we had near seventy men on shore, who had been +employed in filling our water, and procuring provisions: These had +with them our two cutters; but as they were too many for the cutters +to bring off at once, we sent the eighteen-oared barge to assist them; +and at the same time made a signal for all that could to embark. The +two cutters soon came off to us full of men; but forty of the company, +who were employed in killing cattle in the wood, and in bringing +them down to the landing-place, were left behind; and though the +eighteen-oared barge was left for their conveyance, yet, as the ship +soon drove to a considerable distance, it was not in their power to +join us. However, as the weather was favourable, and our crew was now +stronger than when we were first driven out, we, in about five days +time, returned again to an anchor at Tinian, and relieved those we +had left behind us from their second fears of being deserted by their +ship. + +[Footnote 1: The original contains also a description of the Ladrones +(or Marian Islands, as they are now usually called,) which, for a +reason before mentioned, is omitted.] + +On our arrival, we found that the Spanish bark, the old object of +their hopes, had undergone a new metamorphosis: For those we had +left onshore began to despair of our return, and conceiving that the +lengthening the bark, as formerly proposed, was both a toilsome and +unnecessary measure, considering the small number they consisted of, +they had resolved to join her again, and to restore her to her first +state; and in this scheme they had made some progress; for they had +brought the two parts together, and would have soon completed her, had +not our coming back put a period to their labours and disquietudes. + +These people we had left behind informed us, that, just before we were +seen in the offing, two proas had stood in very near the shore, and +had continued there for some time; but, on the appearance of our +ship, they crowded away, and were presently out of sight. And, on this +occasion, I must mention an incident, which, though it happened during +the first absence of the ship, was then omitted, to avoid interrupting +the course of the narration. + +It hath been already observed, that a part of the detachment, sent to +this island under the command of the Spanish Serjeant, lay concealed +in the woods; and we were the less solicitous to find them out, as our +prisoners all assured us, that it was impossible for them to get +off, and consequently that it was impossible for them to send any +intelligence about us to Guam. But when the Centurion drove out to +sea, and left the commodore on shore, he one day, attended by some +of his officers, endeavoured to make the tour of the island: In this +expedition, being on a rising ground, they perceived in the valley +beneath them the appearance of a small thicket, which, by observing +more nicely, they found had a progressive motion: This at first +surprised them; but they soon discovered, that it was no more than +several large cocoa bushes, which were dragged along the ground, by +persons concealed beneath them. They immediately concluded that +these were some of the Serjeant's party (which, was indeed true); and +therefore the commodore and his people made after them, in hopes +of finding out their retreat. The Indians soon perceived they were +discovered, and hurried away with precipitation; but Mr Anson was so +near them, that he did not lose sight of them till they arrived at +their cell, which he and his officers entering found to be abandoned, +there being a passage from it down a precipice contrived for the +conveniency of flight. They found here an old firelock or two, but +no other arms. However, there was a great quantity of provisions, +particularly salted spare-ribs of pork, which were excellent; and +from what our people saw here, they concluded, that the extraordinary +appetite, which they had found at this island, was not confined to +themselves; for, it being about noon, the Indians had laid out a very +plentiful repast considering their numbers, and had their bread-fruit +and cocoa-nuts prepared ready for eating, and in a manner which +plainly evinced, that, with them too, a good meal was neither an +uncommon nor an unheeded article. The commodore having in vain +endeavoured to discover the path by which the Indians had escaped, he +and his officers contented themselves with sitting down to the dinner, +which was thus luckily filled to their present appetites; after which, +they returned back to their old habitation, displeased at missing the +Indians, as they hoped to have engaged them in our service, if they +could have had any conference with them. But, notwithstanding what our +prisoners had asserted, we were afterwards assured, that these Indians +were carried off to Guam long before we left the place. + +On our coming to an anchor again; after our second driving off to sea; +we laboured indefatigably in getting in our water; and having, by the +20th of October, completed it to fifty tun, which we supposed would be +sufficient for our passage to Macao, we, on the next day, sent one of +each mess on shore, to gather as large a quantity of oranges, lemons, +cocoa-nuts, and other fruits of the island, as they possibly could, +for the use of themselves and mess-mates, when at sea. And, these +purveyors returning on board us on the evening of the same day, we +then set fire to the bark and proa, hoisted in our boats, and got +under sail, steering away for the south-end of the island of Formosa, +and taking our leaves, for the third and last time, of the island of +Tinian: An island, which, whether we consider the excellence of its +productions, the beauty of its appearance, the elegance of its woods +and lawns, the healthiness of its air or the adventures it gave rise +to, may in all these views be truly styled romantic. + +[After the description, certainly a very imperfect one, of the +Ladrones, which now follows, the author gives a curious account of the +proas or prows so much used among them. This is extracted, as likely +to interest the reader, and as more satisfactory, than the brief +notice already given in the history of Magellan's voyage. This account +is more deserving of regard, as being drawn up from very particular +examination of one of the vessels taken, as has been mentioned, at +Tinian.] + +The Indians that inhabit the Ladrones, of which Tinian (formerly well +peopled) is one, are a bold, well-limbed people; and it should seem +from some of their practices, that they are no ways defective in +understanding; for their flying proa in particular, which has been for +ages the only vessel used by them, is so singular and extraordinary +an invention, that it would do honour to any nation, however dexterous +and acute. Whether we consider its aptitude to the particular +navigation of these islands, or the uncommon simplicity and ingenuity +of its fabric and contrivance, or the extraordinary velocity with +which it moves, we shall find it worthy of our admiration, and +meriting a place amongst the mechanical productions of the most +civilized nations, where arts and sciences have most eminently +flourished. + +The name of flying proa given to these vessels, is owing to the +swiftness with which they sail. Of this the Spaniards assert such +stories, as appear altogether incredible to those who have never seen +these vessels move; nor are the Spaniards the only people who relate +these extraordinary tales of their celerity. For those who shall have +the curiosity to enquire at the dock at Portsmouth, about a trial made +there some years since, with a very imperfect one built at that place, +will meet with accounts not less wonderful than any the Spaniards have +given. However, from some rude estimations made, by our people, of the +velocity with which they crossed the horizon at a distance, whilst we +lay at Tinian, I cannot help believing that with a brisk trade-wind +they will run near twenty miles an hour: Which, though greatly short +of what the Spaniards report of them, is yet a prodigious degree of +swiftness. + +The construction of this proa is a direct contradiction to the +practice of the rest of mankind. For as the rest of the world make +the head of their vessels different from the stern, but the two sides +alike, the proa, on the contrary, has her head and stern exactly +alike, but her two sides very different; the side, intended to be +always the lee-side, being flat; and the windward-side made rounding, +in the manner of other vessels: And, to prevent her oversetting, which +from her small breadth, and the straight run of her leeward-side, +would, without this precaution, infallibly happen, there is a frame +laid out from her to windward, to the end of which is fastened a log, +fashioned into the shape of a small boat, and made hollow: The weight +of the frame is intended to balance the proa, and the small boat is by +its buoyancy (as it is always in the water) to prevent her oversetting +to windward; and this frame is usually called an outrigger. The body +of the proa (at least of that we took) is made of two pieces joined +end-ways, and sowed together with bark, for there is no iron used +about her: She is about two inches thick at the bottom, which at the +gunwale is reduced to less than one.[2] + +[Footnote 2: The author refers to a plate for a minute description, +which is necessarily omitted.--E.] + +The proa generally carries six or seven Indians; two of which are +placed in the head and stem, who steer the vessel alternately with a +paddle, according to the tack she goes on, be in the stern being the +steersman; the other Indians are employed either in baling out the +water which she accidentally ships, or in setting and trimming +the sail. From the description of these vessels it is sufficiently +obvious, how dexterously they are fitted for ranging this collection +of islands called the Ladrones: For as these islands lie nearly N. and +S. of each other, and are all within the limits of the trade-wind, +the proas, by sailing most excellently on a wind, and with either +end foremost, can ran from one of these islands to the other and back +again, only by shifting the sail, without ever putting about; and, +by the flatness of their lee-side, and their small breadth, they are +capable of lying much nearer the wind than any other vessel hitherto +known. + +The eastern monsoon was now, we reckoned, fairly settled; and we had +a constant gale blowing right upon our stern: So that we generally +ran from forty to fifty leagues a-day. But we had a large hollow +sea pursuing us, which occasioned the ship to labour much; whence we +received great damage in our rigging, which was grown very rotten, and +our leak was augmented: But, happily for us, our people were now in +full health; so that there were no complaints of fatigue, but all went +through their attendance on the pumps, and every other duty of the +ship, with ease and cheerfulness. + +Having no other but our sheet-anchor left, except our prize-anchors, +which were stowed in the hold, and were too light to be depended on, +we were under great concern how we should manage on, the coast +of China, where we were all entire strangers, and where we should +doubtless be frequently under the necessity of coming to an anchor. +Our sheet-anchor being much too heavy for a coasting anchor, it was +at length resolved to fix two of our largest prize-anchors into one +stock, and to place between their shanks two guns, four pounders, +which was accordingly executed, and it was to serve as a best bower: +And a third prize-anchor being ill like manner joined with our +stream-anchor, with guns between them, we thereby made a small bower; +so that, besides our sheet-anchor, we had again two others at our +bows, one of which weighed 3900, and the other 2900 pounds. + +The 3d of November, about three in the afternoon, we saw an island, +which at first we imagined to be the island of Botel Tobago Xima: But +on nearer approach we found it to be much smaller than that is usually +represented; and about an hour after we saw another island, five or +six miles farther to the westward. As no chart, nor any journal we had +seen, took notice of any other island to the eastward of Formosa, than +Botel Tobago Xima, and as we had no observation of our latitude +at noon, we were in some perplexity, being apprehensive that an +extraordinary current had driven us into the neighbourhood of the +Bashee islands; and therefore, when night came on, we brought to, and +continued in this posture till the next morning, which proving dark +and cloudy, for some time prolonged our uncertainty; but it cleared +up about nine o'clock, when we again discerned the two islands +above-mentioned; we then prest forwards to the westward, and by +eleven got a sight of the southern part of the island of Formosa. This +satisfied us that the second island we saw was Botel Tobago Xima, and +the first a small island or rock, lying five or six miles due east +from it, which, not being mentioned by any of our books or charts, was +the occasion of our fears.[3] + +[Footnote 3: These two islands are marked in Arrowsmith's map of Asia, +under the names of Bottle Tobago and Little Bottle Tobago.--E.] + +When we got sight of the island of Formosa, we steered W. by S. in +order to double its extremity, and kept a good look-out for the rocks +of Vele Rete, which we did not see till two in the afternoon. They +then bore from us W.N.W. three miles distant, the south end of Formosa +at the same time bearing N. by W. 1/2 W. about five leagues distant. +To give these rocks a good birth, we immediately haled up S. by W. +and so left them between us and the land. Indeed we had reason to be +careful of them; for though they appeared as high out of the water as +a ship's hull, yet they are environed with breakers on all sides, and +there is a shoal stretching from them at least a mile and a half to +the southward, whence they may be truly called dangerous. The course +from Botel Tobago Xima to these rocks is S.W. by W. and the distance +about twelve or thirteen leagues: And the south end of Formosa, off +which they lie, is in the latitude of 21 deg. 50' north, and in 23 deg. 50' +west longitude from Tinian, according to our most approved reckonings, +though by some of our accounts above a degree more. + +While we were passing by these rocks of Vele Rete, there was an outcry +of fire on the fore-castle; this occasioned a general alarm, and the +whole crew instantly flocked together in the utmost confusion, so that +the officers found it difficult for some time to appease the uproar: +But having at last reduced the people to order, it was perceived that +the fire proceeded from the furnace; and, pulling down the brick-work, +it was extinguished with great facility, for it had taken its rise +from the bricks, which, being over-heated, had begun to communicate +the fire to the adjacent wood-work. In the evening we were surprised +with a view of what we at first sight conceived to have been breakers, +but, on a stricter examination, we found them to be only a great +number of fires on the island of Formosa. These, we imagined, were, +intended by the inhabitants of that island as signals for us to touch +there, but that suited not our views, we being impatient to reach the +port of Macao as soon as possible. From Formosa we steered W.N.W. and +sometimes still more northerly, proposing to fall in with, the coast +of China, to the eastward of Pedro Blanco; for the rock so called is +usually esteemed an excellent direction for ships bound to Macao. We +continued this course till the following night, and then frequently +brought to, to try if we were in soundings: But it was the 5th of +November, at nine in the morning, before we struck ground, and then, +we had forty-two fathom, and a bottom of grey sand mixed with shells. +When we had got about twenty miles farther W.N.W. we had thirty-five +fathom; and the same bottom, from whence our sounding gradually +decreased from thirty-five to twenty-five fathom; but soon after, to +our great surprise, they jumped back again to thirty fathom: This was +an alteration we could not very well account for,[4] since all the +charts laid down regular soundings every-where to the northward of +Pedro Blanco; and for this reason we kept a very careful look-out, and +altered our course to N.N.W. and having run thirty-five miles in this +direction, our soundings again gradually diminished to twenty-two +fathom, and we at last, about mid-night, got sight of the main land of +China, bearing N. by W. four leagues distant: We then brought the ship +to, with her head to the sea, proposing to wait for the morning; and +before sun-rise we were surprised to find ourselves in the midst of an +incredible number of fishing-boats, which seemed to cover the surface +of the sea as far as the eye could reach. I may well style their +number incredible, since I cannot believe, upon the lowest estimate, +that there were fewer than six thousand, most of them manned with +five hands, and none with less than three. Nor was this swarm of +fishing-vessels peculiar to this spot; for, as we ran on to the +westward, we found them as abundant on every part of the coast. We at +first doubted not but we should procure a pilot from them to carry +us to Macao; but though many of them came close to the ship, and we +endeavoured to tempt them by showing them a number of dollars, a most +alluring bait for Chinese of all ranks and professions, yet we could +not entice them on board us, nor procure any directions from them; +though, I presume, the only difficulty was their not comprehending +what we wanted them to do, for we could have no communication with +them, but by signs: Indeed we often pronounced the word Macao; but +this we had reason to suppose they understood in a different sense; +for in return they sometimes held up fish to us, and we afterwards +learnt, that the Chinese name for fish is of a somewhat similar sound. +But what surprised us most, was the inattention and want of curiosity, +which we observed in this herd of fishermen: A ship like ours had +doubtless never been in those seas before; perhaps, there might not +be one, amongst all the Chinese employed in this fishery, who had ever +seen any European vessel; so that we might reasonably have expected +to have been considered by them as a very uncommon and extraordinary +object; but though many of their vessels came close to the ship, yet +they did not appear to be at all interested about us, nor did +they deviate in the least from their course to regard us; which +insensibility, especially in maritime persons, about a matter in +their own profession, is scarcely to be credited, did not the +general behaviour of the Chinese, in other instances, furnish us with +continual proofs of a similar turn of mind: It may perhaps be doubted, +whether this cast of temper be the effect of nature or education; +but, in either case, it is an incontestable symptom of a mean and +contemptible disposition, and is alone a sufficient confutation of the +extravagant panegyrics, which many hypothetical writers have bestowed +on the ingenuity and capacity of this nation.[5] + +[Footnote 4: It was probably occasioned by their being over a sand +bank, which is laid down by Arrowsmith in this part of the Centurion's +course.--E.] + +[Footnote 5: Neither the ingenuity nor the capacity of the Chinese is +at all implicated by the circumstances recorded, the source of which +may be probably enough conjectured, viz. their contempt of every thing +foreign, which, it is well known, they never scruple to avow. Besides, +as is very soon mentioned, their fishermen were under authority, and +had received no orders or permission to the effect desired.--E.] + +Not being able to procure any information from the Chinese fishermen +about our proper course to Macao, it was necessary for us to rely +entirety on our own judgment; and concluding from our latitude, which +was 22 deg. 42' north, and from our soundings, which were only seventeen +or eighteen fathoms, that we were yet to the eastward of Pedro +Blanco, we stood to the westward: And, for the assistance of future +navigators, who may hereafter doubt about the parts of the coast they +are upon, I must observe, that, besides the latitude of Pedro Blanco, +which is 22 deg. 18', and the depth of water, which to the westward of +that rock is almost every where twenty fathoms, there is another +circumstance which will give great assistance in judging of the +position of the ship: This is, the kind of ground; for, till we came +within thirty miles of Pedro Blanco, we had constantly a sandy bottom; +but there the bottom changed to soft and muddy, and continued so quite +to the island of Macao; only while we were in sight of Pedro Blanco, +and very near it, we had for a short space a bottom of greenish mud, +intermixed with sand. + +On the fifth of November, at midnight, we made the coast of China; and +the next day, about two o'clock, as we were standing to the westward +within two leagues of the coast, and still surrounded by fishing +vessels in as great numbers as at first, we perceived that a boat +a-head of us waved a red flag, and blew a horn; This we considered as +a signal made to us, either to warn us of some shoal, or to inform +us that they would supply us with a pilot, and in this belief we +immediately sent our cutter to the boat, to know their intentions; but +we were soon made sensible of our mistake, and found that this boat +was the commodore of the whole fishery, and that the signal she had +made, was to order them all to leave off fishing, and to return in +shore, which we saw them instantly obey. On this disappointment we +kept on our course, and soon after passed by two very small rocks, +which lay four or five miles distant from the shore; but night came on +before we got sight of Pedro Blanco, and we therefore brought-to till +the morning, when we had the satisfaction to discover it. It is a rock +of a small circumference, but of a moderate height, and, both in shape +and colour, resembles a sugar-loaf, and is about seven or eight miles +from the shore. We passed within a mile and a half of it, and left +it between us and the land, still keeping on to the westward; and the +next day, being the 7th, we were a-breast of a chain of islands, +which stretched from east to west. These, as we afterwards found, were +called the islands of Lema;[6] they are rocky and barren, and are in +all, small and great, fifteen or sixteen; and there are, besides, a +great number of other islands between them and the main land of China. +These islands we left on the star-board side, passing within four +miles of them, where we had twenty-four fathom water. We were still +surrounded by fishing-boats; and we once more sent the cutter on board +one of them, to endeavour to procure a pilot, but could not prevail; +however, one of the Chinese directed us by signs to sail round the +westermost of the islands, or rocks of Lema, and then to hale up. +We followed this direction; and in the evening came to an anchor in +eighteen fathom. + +[Footnote 6: Called Grand Lema in Arrowsmith's map, and touched at by +the Lion in 1793.--E.] + +On the 9th at four in the morning, we sent our cutter to sound the +channel, where we proposed to pass; but before the return of the +cutter, a Chinese pilot put on board us, and told us, in broken +Portuguese, he would carry us to Macao for thirty dollars: These were +immediately paid him, and we then weighed and made sail; and soon +after, several other pilots came on board us, who, to recommend +themselves, produced certificates from the captains of several ships +they had piloted in, but we continued the ship under the management of +the Chinese who came first on board. By this time we learnt, that we +were not far distant from Macao, and that there were in the river of +Canton, at the mouth of which Macao lies, eleven European ships, of +which four were English. Our pilot carried us between the islands of +Bamboo and Cabouce, but the winds hanging in the northern board, and +the tides often setting strongly against us, we were obliged to come +frequently to an anchor, so that we did not get through between the +two islands till the 12th of November, at two in the morning. In +passing through, our depth of water was from twelve to fourteen +fathom; and as we still steered on N.W. 1/2 W. between a number of +other islands, our soundings underwent little or no variation till +towards the evening, when they increased to seventeen fathom; in which +depth (the wind dying away) we anchored not far from the island of +Lantoon, which is the largest of all this range of islands. At seven +in the morning we weighed again, and steering W.S.W. and S.W. by +W., we at ten o'clock happily anchored in Macao road, in five fathom +water, the city of Macao bearing W. by N., three leagues distant; the +peak of Lantoon E. by N., and the grand Ladrone S. by E. each of them +about five leagues distant. Thus, after a fatiguing cruise of above +two years continuance, we once more arrived in an amicable port, in +a civilized country; where the conveniences of life were in great +plenty; where the naval stores, which we now extremely wanted, could +be in some degree procured; where we expected the inexpressible +satisfaction of receiving letters from our relations and friends; and +where our countrymen, who were lately arrived from England, would be +capable of answering the numerous enquiries we were prepared to make, +both about public and private occurrences, and to relate to us many +particulars, which, whether of importance or not, would be listened +to by us with the utmost attention, after the long suspension of +our correspondence with our country, to which the nature of our +undertaking had hitherto subjected us. + + + +SECTION XXIX. + +_Proceedings at Macao._ + +The city of Macao, in the road of which we came to an anchor on the +12th of November, is a Portuguese settlement, situated in an island +at the mouth of the river of Canton. It was formerly a very rich and +populous city, and capable of defending itself against the power of +the adjacent Chinese governors: But at present it is much fallen from +its ancient splendour, for though it is inhabited by Portuguese, and +has a governor nominated by the king of Portugal, yet it subsists +merely by the sufferance of the Chinese, who can starve the place, +and dispossess the Portuguese whenever they please: This obliges the +governor of Macao to behave with great circumspection, and carefully +to avoid every circumstance that may give offence to the Chinese.[7] +The river of Canton, at the mouth of which this city lies, is the only +Chinese port, frequented by European ships; and this river is indeed +a more commodious harbour, on many accounts, than Macao: But the +peculiar customs of the Chinese, only adapted to the entertainment of +trading ships, and the apprehensions of the commodore, lest he should +embroil the East-India company with the regency of Canton, if he +should insist on being treated upon a different footing than the +merchantmen, made him resolve to go first to Macao, before he ventured +into the port of Canton. Indeed, had not this reason prevailed with +him, he himself had nothing to fear: For it is certain that he might +have entered the port of Canton, and might have continued there as +long as he pleased, and afterwards have left it again, although the +whole power of the Chinese empire had been brought together to oppose +him. + +[Footnote 7: This circumspection has never availed much. The +Portuguese obtained this port and the adjoining territory of about 8 +miles in circuit, as a reward for assistance given in extirpating a +pirate who took refuge here. But the ingratitude of the Chinese always +grudged, and often violated, the immunities thus won from their fears. +The city, built after the European model, and originally possessed of +both military strength and commercial consequence, has, through the +carelessness of the Portuguese, and the exactions and insolence of +their neighbours, dwindled into comparative insignificance. According +to Sir George Staunton's account, the population does not now exceed +12000, and more than half is Chinese. In short, Macao is virtually a +Chinese town, where the Portuguese are merely tolerated. The Chinese, +it is certain, require almost any other treatment than condescension +and good manners. The reader will soon see in the narrative how +practicable it is to reduce them to common sense--one of the +ingredients of it they have in a high degree, the desire of +self-preservation. The following quotation from a work recently +published, may amuse him in the mean time, and serves besides to +confirm the statement of the text. "The situation of the Portuguese in +Macao is particularly restrained, and that of their governor extremely +unpleasant to him. Although the latter invariably conducts himself +with the greatest circumspection, cases still arise in which he cannot +give way without entirely sacrificing the honour of his country, +already greatly diminished in the eyes of the Chinese. A few months +only before our arrival (November 1805,) a circumstance happened fully +illustrative of this; an account of which may tend to prove that, if +the Portuguese possessed greater power at Macao, the cowardly Chinese +would not dare to treat them with so little consideration, or, to +speak more correctly, with so much contempt. If Macao were in +the hands of the English, or even of the Spaniards, the shameful +dependence of this possession on the Chinese would soon fall to the +ground; and, with the assistance of their important possessions in the +vicinity of China, either of these nations established in Macao might +bid defiance to the whole empire. A Portuguese resident at Macao +stabbed a Chinese, but being rich, he offered the family of the +deceased a sum of money to suffer the affair to drop. This was agreed +to, and he paid 4000 piastres; scarcely, however, had he given the +money, when the affair was represented to the Chinese magistracy, who +exacted from the governor that the criminal should be instantly given +up. The latter refused, alleging, that, as the deed was committed +in Macao, he was liable to the Portuguese law, according to which he +would be punished if they found him guilty. The Chinese, who wished +to inflict punishment on the Portuguese, immediately on the receipt of +this answer shut up all their booths, and forbade the importation of +provisions into Macao; but the governor, who had two years stock of +provisions for his garrison, (we shall find it was otherwise with +the governor in Anson's time) troubled himself very little with this +threat, and still refused to give up the criminal; in the mean time +his trial went on; he was found guilty of the murder, and immediately +hanged. The Chinese assembled with the intention of endeavouring to +seize the perpetrator of the murder whilst on his way to the scaffold: +The governor collected his troops, loaded the artillery on the +batteries, and awaited the attack; and, alarmed at his decisive +measures, the Chinese withdrew, under the pretence of being +perfectly satisfied with the execution of the murderer, and order +was immediately restored." The work from which this is extracted +is Captain Krusenstern's account of his voyage round the world, in +1803-4-5 and 6; being the first circumnavigation the Russians have +made, and that too under the patronage and by the command of the most +magnanimous and beneficient Alexander, a monarch whom every friend of +humanity must admire and love from the heart, as surpassing even his +liberality in the promotion of useful science and discovery amongst +his own subjects, by the splendour and substantial value of his +services in the best interests of Europe, and the world: + + Non possidentem multa vocaveris + Recte beatum: rectius occupat + Nomen beati, qui deorum + Muneribus sapienter uti, + Duramque callet _pauperiem_ pati, + Pejusque leto flagitium timet; + Non ille pro caris _amicis_ + Aut patria timidus perire. + +To return to Macao: Captain K. strongly expresses his wish that +some European power of sufficient energy and consequence would take +possession of it, before the Portuguese themselves abandon it to the +Chinese. It is evident he alludes to the English. An agreement, it is +very probable, might be readily entered into with the Portuguese +for the possession of that place, which could not fail to prove most +convenient for our eastern commerce. An equivalent may be found among +the West Indian islands; but it is perhaps equally vain and invidious +to speculate on such very distant concerns, when the wonderful events +now occurring in a kingdom so long the torment and the _teacher_ of +nations, arrest the imagination from every trivial selfish pursuit, +and fix the mind undividedly on the operations of the great source of +power, justice, and truth. A new aera commences in the world--May it +be remarkable to all succeeding generations for liberal policy, +disinterestedness, and general benevolence!--E. + +12th April, 1814.] + +The commodore, not to depart from his usual prudence, no sooner came +to an anchor in Macao road, than he dispatched an officer with his +compliments to the Portuguese governor of Macao, requesting his +excellency, by the same officer, to advise him in what manner it would +be proper to act, to avoid offending the Chinese, which, as there were +then four of our ships in their power at Canton, was a matter +worthy of attention. The difficulty, which the commodore principally +apprehended, related to the duty usually paid by all ships in the +river of Canton, according to their tunnage. For as men of war are +exempted in every foreign harbour from all manner of port charges, the +commodore thought it would be derogatory to the honour of his country +to submit to this duty in China: And therefore he desired the advice +of the governor of Macao, who, being an European, could not be +ignorant of the privileges claimed by a British man of war, and +consequently might be expected to give us the best lights for avoiding +this perplexity. Our boat returned in the evening with two officers +sent by the governor, who informed the commodore, that it was the +governor's opinion, that if the Centurion ventured into the river of +Canton, the duty would certainly be demanded; and therefore, if +the commodore approved of it, he would send him a pilot, who should +conduct us into another safe harbour, called the Typa, which was every +way commodious for careening the ship, (an operation we were resolved +to begin upon as soon as possible) and where the above-mentioned duty +would, in all probability, be never asked for. + +This proposal the commodore agreed to, and in the morning we weighed +anchor, and, under the direction of the Portuguese pilot, steered +for the intended harbour. As we entered two islands, which form the +eastern passage to it, we found our soundings decreased to three +fathom and a half: But the pilot assuring us that this was the least +depth we should meet with, we continued our course, till at length the +ship stuck fast in the mud, with only eighteen feet water abaft; and, +the tide of ebb making, the water sewed to sixteen feet, but the ship +remained perfectly upright; we then sounded all round us, and finding +the water deepened to the northward, we carried out our small bower +with two hawsers an end, and at the return of the tide of flood, hove +the ship afloat, and a small breeze springing up at the same instant, +we set the fore top-sail, and, slipping the hawser, ran into the +harbour, where we moored in about five fathom water. This harbour +of the Typa is formed by a number of islands, and is about six miles +distant from Macao. Here we saluted the castle of Macao with eleven +guns, which were returned by an equal number. + +The next day the commodore paid a visit in person to the governor, and +was saluted at his landing by eleven guns, which were returned by +the Centurion. Mr Anson's business in this visit was to solicit the +governor to grant us a supply of provisions, and to furnish us with +such stores as were necessary to refit the ship The governor seemed +really inclined to do us all the service he could, and assured the +commodore, in a friendly manner, that he would privately give us all +the assistance in his power; but, at the same time, frankly owned that +he dared not openly furnish us with any thing we demanded, unless we +first procured an order for it from the viceroy of Canton, for that +he neither received provisions for his garrison, nor any other +necessaries, but by permission from the Chinese government; and as +they took care only to furnish him from day to day, he was indeed no +other than their vassal, whom they could at all times compel to submit +to their own terms, only by laying an embargo on his provisions. + +On this declaration of the governor, Mr Anson resolved himself to go +to Canton to procure a license from the viceroy; and accordingly hired +a Chinese boat for himself and his attendants; but just as he was +ready to embark, the Hoppo, or Chinese custom-house officer at Macao, +refused to grant a permit to the boat, and ordered the watermen not to +proceed at their peril. The commodore at first endeavoured to prevail +with the hoppo to withdraw his injunction, and to grant a permit; and +the governor of Macao employed his interest with the hoppo to the same +purpose. Mr Anson, finding the officer inflexible, told him the next +day, that if he longer refused to grant the permit, he would man and +arm his own boats to carry him thither; asking the hoppo, at the +same time, who he imagined would dare to oppose him. This threat +immediately brought about what his entreaties had laboured for in +vain: The permit was granted, and Mr Anson went to Canton. On his +arrival there he consulted with the supercargoes and officers of +the English ships, how to procure an order from the viceroy for the +necessaries he wanted; but in this he had reason to suppose, that the +advice they gave him, though doubtless well intended, was yet not the +most prudent; for as it is the custom with these gentlemen never to +apply to the supreme magistrate himself, whatever difficulties they +labour under, but to transact all matters relating to the government +by the mediation of the principal Chinese merchants, Mr Anson was +advised to follow the same method upon this occasion, the English +promising (in which they were doubtless sincere) to exert all their +interest to engage the merchants in his favour. And when the Chinese +merchants were applied to, they readily undertook the management of +it, and promised to answer for its success; but after near a month's +delay, and reiterated excuses, during which interval they pretended +to be often upon the point of completing the business, they at last +(being pressed, and measures being taken for delivering a letter to +the viceroy) threw off the mask, and declared they neither had applied +to the viceroy nor could they; for he was too great a man, they said, +for them to approach on any occasion. And, not contented with having +themselves thus grossly deceived the commodore, they now used all +their persuasion with the English at Canton, to prevent them from +intermeddling with any thing that regarded him, representing to them; +that it would in all probability embroil them with the government, and +occasion them a great deal of unnecessary trouble; which groundless +insinuations had indeed but too much weight with those they were +applied to. + +It may be difficult to assign a reason for this perfidious conduct of +the Chinese merchants: Interest indeed is known to exert a boundless +influence over the inhabitants of that empire; but how their interest +could be affected in the present case is not easy to discover, unless +they apprehended that the presence of a ship of force might damp +their Manilla trade, and therefore acted in this manner with a view of +forcing the commodore to Batavia: But it might be as natural in this +light to suppose, that they would have been eager to have got him +dispatched. I, therefore, rather impute their behaviour to the +unparalleled pusillanimity of the nation, and to the awe they are +under of the government; for as such a ship as the Centurion, fitted +for war only, had never been seen in those parts before, she was +the horror of these dastards, and the merchants were in some degree +terrified even with the idea of her, and could not think of applying +to the viceroy (who is doubtless fond of all opportunities of fleecing +them) without representing to themselves the pretences which a hungry +and tyrannical magistrate night possibly find, for censuring their +intermeddling in so unusual a transaction, in which he might pretend +the interest of the state was immediately concerned. However, be this +as it may, the commodore was satisfied that nothing was to be done by +the interposition of the merchants, as it was on his pressing them to +deliver a letter to the viceroy that they had declared they durst +not intermeddle, and had confessed, that, notwithstanding all their +pretences of serving him, they had not yet taken one step towards it. +Mr Anson therefore told them, that he would proceed to Batavia and +refit his ship there; but informed them, at the same time, that this +was impossible to be done, unless he was supplied with a stock of +provisions sufficient for his passage. The merchants on this undertook +to procure him provisions, but assured him that it was what they +durst not engage in openly, but proposed to manage it in a clandestine +manner, by putting a quantity of bread, flour, and other provision, on +board the English ships, which were now ready to sail, and these were +to stop at the mouth of the Typa, where the Centurion's boats were to +receive it. This article, which the merchants represented as a +matter of great favour, being settled, the commodore, on the 16th +of December, returned from Canton to the ship, seemingly resolved to +proceed to Batavia to refit, as soon as he should get his supplies of +provision on board. + +But Mr Anson (who never intended going to Batavia) found, on his +return to the Centurion, that her main-mast was sprung in two places, +and that the leak was considerably increased; so that, upon the whole, +he was fully satisfied, that though he should lay in a sufficient +stock of provisions, yet it would be impossible for him to put to +sea without refitting: For, if he left the port with his ship in her +present condition, she would be in the utmost danger of foundering, +and therefore, notwithstanding the difficulties he had met with, he +resolved at all events to have her hove down before he left Macao. He +was fully convinced, by what he had observed at Canton, that his great +caution not to injure the East India Company's affairs, and the regard +he had shown to the advice of their officers, had occasioned all +his embarrassments. For he now saw clearly, that if he had at first +carried his ship into the river of Canton, and had immediately applied +himself to the mandarines, who are the chief officers of state, +instead of employing the merchants to apply for him, he would, in all +probability, have had all his requests granted, and would have been +soon dispatched. He had already lost a month by the wrong measures +he had been put upon, but he resolved to lose as little more time as +possible; and, therefore, the 17th of December, being the next day +after his return from Canton, he wrote a letter to the viceroy of that +place, acquainting him that he was commander-in-chief of a squadron of +his Britannic majesty's ships of war which had been cruising for two +years past in the South Seas against the Spaniards, who were at war +with the king his master; that, in his way back to England, he had put +into the port of Macao, having a considerable leak in his ship, and +being in great want of provisions, so that it was impossible for +him to proceed on his voyage till his ship was repaired, and he was +supplied with the necessaries he wanted; that he had been at Canton, +in hopes of being admitted to a personal audience of his excellency, +but being a stranger to the customs of the country, he had not been +able to inform himself what steps were necessary to be taken to +procure such an audience, and therefore was obliged to apply to him +in this manner, to desire his excellency to give orders for his being +permitted to employ carpenters and proper workmen to refit his ship, +and to furnish himself with provisions and stores, thereby to enable +him to pursue his voyage to Great Britain with this monsoon, hoping, +at the same time, that these orders would be issued with as little +delay as possible, lest it might occasion his loss of the season, and +he might be prevented, from departing till the next winter. + +This letter was translated into the Chinese language, and the +commodore delivered it himself to the hoppo, or chief officer of the +emperor's customs at Macao, desiring him to forward it to the viceroy +of Canton with as much expedition as he could. The officer at first +seemed unwilling to take charge of it, and raised many difficulties +about it, so that Mr Anson suspected him of being in league with the +merchants of Canton, who had always shown a great apprehension of +the commodore's having any immediate intercourse with the viceroy or +mandarines; and, therefore, the commodore, with some resentment, took +back his letter from the hoppo, and told him he would immediately +send, an officer with it to Canton in his own boat, and would give him +positive orders not to return without an answer from the viceroy. The +hoppo, perceiving the commodore to be in earnest, and fearing to be +called to an account for his refusal, begged to be entrusted with the +letter, and promised to deliver it, and to procure an answer as soon +as possible. And now it was soon seen how justly Mr Anson had at last +judged of the proper manner of dealing with the Chinese; for this +letter was written but the 17th of December, as hath been already +observed, and on the 19th in the morning, a mandarine of the first +rank, who was governor of the city of Janson, together with two +mandarines of an inferior class, and a great retinue of officers and +servants, having with them eighteen half gallies, decorated with a +great number of streamers, and furnished with music, and full of men, +came to grapnel a-head of the Centurion; whence the mandarine sent +a message to the commodore, telling him that he (the mandarine) was +ordered by the viceroy of Canton to examine the condition of the ship, +and desiring the ship's boat might be sent to fetch him on board. The +Centurion's boat was immediately dispatched, and preparations were +made for receiving him; for a hundred of the most sightly of the crew +were uniformly drest in the regimentals of the marines, and were drawn +up under arms on the main-deck on his arrival. When he entered the +ship he was saluted by the drums, and what other military music there +was on board; and, passing by the new-formed guard, he was met by the +commodore on the quarter-deck, who conducted him to the great cabin. +Here the mandarine explained his commission, declaring, that +his business was to examine all the particulars mentioned in the +commodore's letter to the viceroy, and to confront them with the +representation that had been given of them; that he was particularly +instructed to inspect the leak, and had for that purpose brought with +him two Chinese carpenters; and that, for the greater regularity and +dispatch or his business, he had every head of enquiry separately +wrote down on a sheet of paper, with a void space opposite to it, +where he was to insert such information and remarks thereon as he +could procure by his own observation. + +This mandarine appeared to be a person of very considerable parts, +and endowed with more frankness and honesty than is to be found in the +generality of the Chinese. After the proper enquiries had been made, +particularly about the leak, which the Chinese carpenters reported to +be as dangerous as it had been represented, and consequently that +it was impossible for the Centurion to proceed to sea without being +refitted, the mandarine expressed himself satisfied with the account +given in the commodore's letter. And this magistrate, as he was more +intelligent than any other person of his nation that came to our +knowledge, so likewise was he more curious and inquisitive, viewing +each part of the ship with particular attention, and appearing greatly +surprised at the largeness of the lower-deck guns, and at the weight +and size of the shot. The commodore, observing his astonishment, +thought this a proper opportunity to convince the Chinese of the +prudence of granting him a speedy and ample supply of all he wanted: +With this view he told the mandarine, and those who were with him, +that, besides the demands he made for a general supply, he had a +particular complaint against the proceedings of the custom-house of +Macao; that at his first arrival the Chinese boats had brought on +board plenty of greens, and variety of fresh provisions for daily use, +for which they had always been paid to their full satisfaction, but +that the custom-house officers at Macao had soon forbid them, by which +means he was deprived of those refreshments which were of the utmost +consequence to the health of his men after their long and sickly +voyage; that as they, the mandarines, had informed themselves of his +wants, and were eye-witnesses of the force and strength of his +ship, they might be satisfied it was not for want of power to supply +himself, that he desired the permission of the government to purchase +what provisions he stood in need of; that they must be convinced that +the Centurion alone was capable of destroying the whole navigation of +the port of Canton, or of any other port in China, without running the +least risk from all the force the Chinese could collect; that it +was true this was not the manner of proceeding between nations in +friendship with each other, but it was likewise true that it was +not customary for any nation to permit the ships of their friends to +starve and sink in their ports, when those friends had money to supply +their wants, and only desired liberty to lay it out; that they must +confess he and his people had hitherto behaved with great modesty and +reserve, but that, as his wants were each day increasing, hunger +would at last prove too strong for any restraint, and necessity was +acknowledged in all countries to be superior to every other law, and +therefore it could not be expected that his crew would long continue +to starve in the midst of that plenty to which their eyes were every +day witnesses. To this the commodore added, (though perhaps with a +less serious air,) that if by the delay of supplying him with fresh +provisions his men should be reduced to the necessity of turning +cannibals, and preying upon their own species, it was easy to be +foreseen, that, independent of their friendship to their comrades, +they would, in point of luxury, prefer the plump well-fed Chinese to +their own emaciated shipmates. The first mandarine acquiesced in the +justness of this reasoning, and told the commodore that he should that +night proceed for Canton; that on his arrival a counsel of mandarines +would be summoned, of which he himself was a member, and that by being +employed in the present commission, he was of course the commodore's +advocate; that, as he was fully convinced of the urgency of Mr Anson's +necessity, he did not doubt but on his representation the counsel +would be of the same opinion; and that all that was demanded would +be amply and speedily granted. And with regard to the commodore's +complaint of the custom-house of Macao, he undertook to rectify that +immediately by his own authority; for, desiring a list to be given him +of the quantity of provision necessary for the expense of the ship +for a day, he wrote a permit under it, and delivered it to one of his +attendants, directing him to see that quantity sent on board early +every morning; and this order, from that time forwards, was punctually +complied with.[8] + +[Footnote 8: Captain Krusenstern, in his very interesting work already +referred to, relates an anecdote, which it may amuse the reader to +compare with the reasoning of Commodore Anson's now given: + +"An English brig (The Harrier) of eighteen guns, sent by Captain Wood, +commanding a squadron on that station, to demand indemnification for +a Spanish prize stranded on the coast of China, and plundered by the +natives, had the audacity, in defiance of the laws of China, which +prohibit ships of war going up the Tigris, to force her way as high as +Whampoa. Two mandarines, as usual, went aboard the brig at the mouth +of the river, to enquire what her cargo was. The captain shewed them a +cannon-ball, on which they instantly retired. + +"The brig," says K. "had found her way to Whampoa without a pilot; and +the captain, with a guard of twelve men, proceeded to Canton to +demand the payment of the sum (L30,000.) This daring conduct threw the +viceroy into astonishment, and perhaps occasioned him some terror; for +nothing but the excessive cowardice of the Chinese could have deterred +him from noticing the affront. They, indeed, shewed a disposition +after the captain had quitted Canton of avenging themselves, but this +altogether in their customary manner; and I was assured, that the +viceroy, as indemnification for this insult of the English captain, +had imposed a heavy fine upon the Kohong (a company of merchants +possessing the monopoly of the European trade,) although the members +of this body could have no concern in the transaction." Capt. K. is +decidedly of opinion, that nothing but resolute conduct will overcome +the fickleness and knavery of the Chinese. He pays a high compliment +to our countrymen, especially Mr Drummond, president of the factory, +who interfered in his behalf when at Whampoa, and with effect, when +they could easily have thwarted his plan, and embroiled his government +with that of China. "That they pursued a very different line of +conduct," says he, "will appear by the above account of their +proceedings; nor can I sufficiently rejoice at the zeal and eagerness +manifested by them in this business. Had we been detained only +twenty-four-hours longer (he had applied for leave to depart, which +was granted with much difficulty, and actually revoked a day after +he had gone,) we must have fallen into the absolute power of these +savages, who have been emboldened by an useless moderation, not only +to call the polite nations of Europe barbarians, but also to treat +them as such."--E.] + +When this weighty affair was thus in some degree regulated, the +commodore invited him and his two attendant mandarines to dinner, +telling them at the same time, that if his provisions, either in +kind or quantity, were not what they might expect, they must thank +themselves for having confined him to so hard an allowance. One of his +dishes was beef, which the Chinese all dislike, though Mr Anson +was not apprized of it; this seems to be derived from the India +superstition, which for some ages past has made a great progress +in China. However, his guests did not entirely fast; for the three +mandarines completely finished the white part of four large fowls. But +they were extremely embarrassed with their knives and forks, and were +quite incapable of making use of them: So that, after some fruitless +attempts to help themselves, which were sufficiently awkward, one of +the attendants was obliged to cut their meat in small pieces for them. +But whatever difficulty they might have in complying with the European +manner of eating, they seemed not to be novices in drinking. The +commodore excused himself in this part of the entertainment, under the +pretence of illness; but there being another gentleman present, of a +florid and jovial complexion, the chief mandarine clapped him on the +shoulder, and told him by the interpreter, that certainly he could not +plead sickness, and therefore insisted on his bearing him company; and +that gentleman perceiving, that after they had dispatched four or five +bottles of Frontiniac, the mandarine still continued unruffled, he +ordered a bottle of citron-water to be brought up, which the Chinese +seemed much to relish; and this being near finished, they arose from +table in appearance cool and uninfluenced by what they had drank, +and the commodore having, according to custom, made the mandarine a +present, they all departed in the same vessels that brought them. + +After their departure, the commodore with great impatience expected +the resolution of the council, and the necessary licences for his +refitment. For it must be observed, as hath already appeared from +the preceding narration, that he could neither purchase stores nor +necessaries with his money, nor did any kind of workmen dare to engage +themselves to work for him, without the permission of the government +first obtained. And in the execution of these particular injunctions, +the magistrates never fail of exercising great severity, they, +notwithstanding the fustian eulogiums bestowed on them by the catholic +missionaries and their European copiers, being composed of the same +fragile materials with the rest of mankind, and often making use +of the authority of the law, not to suppress crimes, but to enrich +themselves by the pillage of those who commit them; for capital +punishments are rare in China, the effeminate genius of the nation, +and their strong attachment to lucre, disposing them rather to make +use of fines; and hence arises no inconsiderable profit to those +who compose their tribunals: Consequently prohibitions of all kinds, +particularly such as the alluring prospect of great profit may often +tempt the subject to infringe, cannot but be favourite institutions in +such a government. But to return: + +Some time before this, Captain Saunders took his passage to England +on board a Swedish ship, and was charged with dispatches from the +commodore; and soon after, in the month of December, Captain Mitchel, +Colonel Cracherode, and Mr Tassel, one of the agent-victuallers, with +his nephew Mr Charles Harriot, embarked on board some of our company's +ships; and I, having obtained, the commodore's leave to return home, +embarked with them. + +Whilst we lay here at Macao, we were informed by some of the officers +of our Indiamen, that the Severn and Pearl, the two ships of our +squadron, which had separated from us off Cape Noir, were safely +arrived at Rio Janeiro on the coast of Brazil. I have formerly taken +notice, that at the time of their separation, we apprehended them +to be lost. And there were many reasons which greatly favoured this +suspicion: For we knew that the Severn in particular was extremely +sickly; and this was the more obvious to the rest of the ships, as, +in the preceding part of the voyage, her commander, Captain Legg, had +been remarkable for his exemplary punctuality in keeping his station, +till, for the last ten days before his separation, his crew was so +diminished and enfeebled, that with his utmost efforts it was not +possible for him to maintain it. Whatever was the cause of it, the +Severn was by much the most sickly of the squadron: For before her +departure from St Catharines, she buried more men than any of them, +insomuch that the commodore was obliged to recruit her with a number +of fresh hands; and the mortality still continuing, she was supplied +with men a second time at sea, after our setting sail from St Julians; +and, notwithstanding these different reinforcements, she was at last +reduced to the distressed condition I have already mentioned. + +Notwithstanding the favourable disposition of the mandarine governor +of Janson, at his leaving Mr Anson, several days were elapsed before +he had any advice from him; and Mr Anson was privately informed there +were great debates in council upon his affair; partly perhaps owing +to its being so unusual a case, and in part to the influence, as I +suppose, of the French at Canton: For they had a countryman and fast +friend residing on the spot, who spoke the language very well, and +was not unacquainted with the venality of the government, nor with the +persons of several of the magistrates, and consequently could not be +at a loss for means of traversing the assistance desired by Mr +Anson. And this opposition of the French was not merely the effect of +national prejudice or contrariety of political interests, but was in +good measure owing to their vanity, a motive of much more weight with +the generality of mankind, than any attachment to the public service +of their community: For, the French pretending their Indiamen to be +men of war, their officers were apprehensive that any distinction +granted to Mr Anson, on account of his bearing the king's commission, +would render them less considerable in the eyes of the Chinese, and +would establish a prepossession at Canton in favour of ships of war, +by which they, as trading vessels, would suffer in their importance: +And I wish the affectation of endeavouring to pass for men of war, and +the fear of sinking in the estimation of the Chinese, if the Centurion +was treated in a different manner from themselves, had been confined +to the officers of the French ships only.[9] However, notwithstanding +all these obstacles, it should seem that the representation of the +commodore to the mandarines of the facility with which he could right +himself, if justice were denied him, had at last its effect: For, +on the 6th of January, in the morning, the governor of Janson, the +commodore's advocate, sent down the viceroy of Canton's warrant for +the refitment of the Centurion, and for supplying her people with +all they wanted; and the next day a number of Chinese smiths and +carpenters went on board to agree for the work. They demanded at first +to the amount of a thousand pounds sterling for the necessary repairs +of the ship, the boats, and the masts: This the commodore seemed to +think an unreasonable sum, and endeavoured to persuade them to work +by the day; but that proposal they would not hearken to; so it was at +last agreed, that the carpenters should have to the amount of about +six hundred pounds; and that the smiths should be paid for their +iron-work by weight, allowing them at the rate of three pounds a +hundred nearly for the small work, and forty-six shillings for the +large. + +[Footnote 9: This sly insinuation, it is pretty evident from +the preceding narrative, is directed against some of the English +merchants.--E.] + +This being regulated, the commodore exerted himself to get this most +important business completed; I mean the heaving down the Centurion, +and examining the state of her bottom: For this purpose the first +lieutenant was dispatched to Canton to hire two country vessels, +called in their language junks, one of them being intended to heave +down by, and the other to serve as a magazine for the powder and +ammunition: At the same time the ground was smoothed on one of the +neighbouring islands, and a large tent was pitched for lodging the +lumber and provisions, and near a hundred Chinese caulkers were +soon set to work on the decks and sides of the ship. But all these +preparations, and the getting ready the careening gear, took up a +great deal of time; for the Chinese caulkers, though they worked very +well, were far from being expeditions; and it was the 26th of January +before the junks arrived; and the necessary materials, which were +to be purchased at Canton, came down very slowly, partly from the +distance of the place, and partly from the delays and backwardness +of the Chinese merchants. And in this interval Mr Anson had the +additional perplexity to discover that his fore-mast was broken +asunder above the upper deck partners, and was only kept together by +the fishes which had been formerly clapt upon it. + +However, the Centurion's people made the most of their time, and +exerted themselves the best they could; and as, by clearing the ship, +the carpenters were enabled to come at the leak, they took care to +secure that effectually, whilst the other preparations were going +forwards. The leak was found to be below the fifteen-foot mark, and +was principally occasioned by one of the bolts being wore away and +loose in the joining of the stem where it was scarfed. + +At last all things being prepared, they, on the 22d of February, in +the morning, hove out the first course of the Centurion's starboard +side, and had the satisfaction to find that her bottom appeared sound +and good; and, the next day (having by that time completed the new +sheathing of the first course) they righted her again, to set up +anew the careening rigging which stretched much. Thus they continued +heaving down, and often righting the ship from a suspicion of their +careening tackle, till the 3d of March; when, having completed the +paying and sheathing the bottom, which proved to be every where very +sound, they for the last time righted the ship to their great joy, for +not only the fatigue of careening had been considerable, but they had +been apprehensive of being attacked by the Spaniards, whilst the ship +was thus incapacitated for defence. Nor were their fears altogether +groundless; for they learnt afterwards by a Portuguese vessel, that +the Spaniards at Manilla had been informed that the Centurion was +in the Typa, and intended to careen there; and that thereupon the +governor had summoned his council, and had proposed to them to +endeavour to burn her whilst she was careening, which was an +enterprise, which, if properly conducted, might have put them in great +danger: They were farther told that this scheme was not only +proposed, but resolved on; and that a captain of a vessel had actually +undertaken to perform the business for forty thousand dollars, which +he was not to receive unless he succeeded; but the governor pretending +that there was no treasure in the royal chest, and insisting that the +merchants should advance the money, and they refusing to comply with +the demand, the affair was dropped: Perhaps the merchants suspected +that the whole was only a pretext to get forty thousand dollars from +them; and indeed this was affirmed by some who bore the governor no +good will, but with what truth it is difficult to ascertain. + +As soon as the Centurion was righted, they took in her powder and +gunner's stores, and proceeded in getting in their guns as fast as +possible, and then used their utmost; expedition in repairing the +fore-mast, and in completing the other articles of her refitment. +And being thus employed, they were alarmed on the 10th of March, by a +Chinese fisherman, who brought them intelligence that he had been on +board a large Spanish ship off the grand Ladrone, and that there were +two more in company with her: He added several particulars to his +relation, as that he had brought one of their officers to Macao; and +that, on this, boats went off early in the morning from Macao to them: +And the better to establish the belief of his veracity, he said he +desired no money if his information should not prove true. This was +presently believed to be the fore-mentioned expedition from Manilla, +and the commodore immediately fitted his cannon and small arms in the +best manner he could for defence; and having; then his pinnace and +cutter in the offing, who had been ordered to examine a Portuguese +vessel which was getting under sail, he sent them the advice he had +received, and directed them to look out strictly: But no such ships +ever appeared, and they were soon satisfied the whole of the story +was a fiction; though it was difficult to conceive what reason could +induce the fellow to be at such extraordinary pains to impose on them. + +It was the beginning of April before they had new-rigged the ship, +stowed their provisions and water on board, and had fitted her for the +sea; and before this time the Chinese grew very uneasy, and extremely +desirous that she should be gone; either not knowing, or pretending +not to believe, that this was a point the commodore was as eagerly set +on as they could be. On the 3d of April, two mandarine boats came on +board from Macao to urge his departure; and this having been often +done before, though there had been no pretence to suspect Mr Anson +of any affected delays, he at this last message answered them in a +determined tone, desiring them to give him no further trouble, for he +would go when he thought proper, and not before. On this rebuke the +Chinese (though it was not in their power to compel him to be gone) +immediately prohibited all provisions from being carried on board him, +and took such care that their injunctions should be complied with, +that from that time forwards nothing could be purchased at any rate +whatever. + +On the 6th of April, the Centurion weighed from the Typa, and warped +to the southward; and by the 15th, she was got into Macao road, +completing her water as she passed along, so that there remained now +very few articles more to attend to, and her whole business being +finished by the 19th, she, at three in the afternoon of that day, +weighed and made sail, and stood to sea. + + + +SECTION XXX. + +_From Macao to Cape Espiritu Santo; the taking of the Manilla Galleon, +and returning back again._ + +The commodore was now got to sea, with his ship very well refitted, +his stores replenished, and an additional stock of provisions on +board: His crew too was somewhat reinforced; for he had entered +twenty-three men during his stay at Macao, the greatest part of which +were Lascars or Indian sailors, and some few Dutch. He gave out at +Macao that he was bound to Batavia, and thence to England; and though +the westerly monsoon was now set in, when that passage is considered +as impracticable, yet, by the confidence he had expressed in the +strength of his ship, and the dexterity of his people, he had +persuaded not only his own crew, but the people at Macao likewise, +that he proposed to try this unusual experiment; so that there were +many letters put on board him by the inhabitants of Canton and Macao +for their friends at Batavia. + +But his real design was of a very different nature: For he knew, that +instead of one annual ship from Acapulco to Manilla, there would be +this year in all probability two; since, by being before Acapulco, he +had prevented one of them from putting to sea the preceding season. +He therefore resolved to cruise for these returning vessels off Cape +Espiritu Santo, on the island of Samal, which is the first land they +always make in the Philippine Islands. And as June is generally the +month in which they arrive there, he doubted not but he should get to +his intended station time enough to intercept them. It is true, they +were said to be stout vessels, mounting forty-four guns a-piece, and +carrying above five hundred hands, and might be expected to return in +company; and he himself had but two hundred and twenty-seven hands +on board, of which near thirty were boys: But this disproportion of +strength did not deter him, as he knew his ship to be much better +fitted for a sea-engagement than theirs, and as he had reason to +expect that his men would exert themselves in the most extraordinary +manner, when they had in view the immense wealth of these Manilla +galleons. + +This project the commodore had resolved on in his own thoughts, ever +since his leaving the coast of Mexico. And the greatest mortification +which he received, from the various delays he had met with in China, +was his apprehension, lest he might be thereby so long retarded as to +let the galleons escape him. Indeed, at Macao it was incumbent on +him to keep these views extremely secret; for there being a great +intercourse and a mutual connection of interests between that port and +Manilla, he had reason to fear, that if his designs were discovered, +intelligence would be immediately sent to Manilla, and measures taken +to prevent the galleons from falling into his hands: But being now at +sea, and entirely clear of the coast, he summoned all his people on +the quarter-deck, and informed them of his resolution to cruise for +the two Manilla ships, of whose wealth they were not ignorant. He told +them he should chuse a station, where he could not fail of meeting +with them; and though they were stout ships, and full manned, yet, if +his own people behaved with their accustomed spirit, he was certain +he should prove too hard for them both, and that one of them at least +could not fail of becoming his prize: He further added, that many +ridiculous tales had been propagated about the strength of the sides +of these ships, and their being impenetrable to cannon-shot; that +these fictions had been principally invented to palliate the cowardice +of those who had formerly engaged them; but he hoped there were none +of those present weak enough to give credit to so absurd a story: For +his own part, he did assure them upon his word, that, whenever he met +with them, he would fight them so near, that they should find, his +bullets, instead of being stopped by one of their sides, should go +through them both. + +This speech of the commodore's was received by his people with +great joy: For no sooner had he ended, than they expressed their +approbation, according to naval custom, by three strenuous cheers, and +all declared their determination to succeed or perish, whenever the +opportunity presented itself. And now their hopes, which, since their +departure from the coast of Mexico, had entirely subsided, were again +revived; and they all persuaded themselves, that, notwithstanding the +various casualties and disappointments they had hitherto met with, +they should yet be repaid the price of their fatigues, and should at +last return home enriched with the spoils of the enemy: For, firmly +relying on the assurances of the commodore, that they should certainly +meet with the vessels, they were all of them too sanguine to doubt a +moment of mastering them; so that they considered themselves as +having them already in their possession. And this confidence was +so universally spread through the whole ship's company, that, the +commodore having taken some Chinese sheep to sea with him for his own +provision, and one day enquiring of his butcher, why, for some time +past, he had seen no mutton at his table, asking him if all the sheep +were killed, the butcher very seriously replied, that there were +indeed two sheep left, but that, if his honour would give him leave, +he proposed to keep those for the entertainment of the general of the +galleons. + +When the Centurion left the port of Macao, she stood for some days to +the westward; and, on the first of May, they saw part of the island +of Formosa; and, standing thence to the southward, they, on the 4th +of May, were in the latitude of the Bashee islands, as laid down by +Dampier; but they suspected his account of inaccuracy, as they found +that he had been considerably mistaken in the latitude of the south +end of Formosa: For this reason they kept a good look-out, and about +seven in the evening discovered from the mast-head five small islands, +which were judged to be the Bashees, and they had afterwards a sight +of Bottle Tobago Xima. By this means they had an opportunity of +correcting the position of the Bashee islands, which had been hitherto +laid down twenty-five leagues too far to the westward: For, by their +observations, they esteemed the middle of these islands to be in 21 deg. +4' north, and to bear from Botel Tobago Xima S.S.E. twenty leagues +distant, that island itself being in 21 deg. 57' north.[1] + + +[Footnote 1: The Bashee Islands were so called by Dampier from the +name of a liquor used by the natives. Four of them are inhabited, and +are tolerably fertile, producing sugar canes, pine apples, plantaines, +potatoes, &c. and having some hogs and goats. The inhabitants, who +are reckoned a harmless and peaceable race, are said to resemble the +Japanese, and probably are derived from them. The unfortunate Peyreuse +visited one of the most northerly of these islands, and found its +latitude to be 21 deg. 9' 13" N. Arrowsmith's map lays them down very +particularly. The passage betwixt Formosa and these islands is held +very dangerous on account of the rock called Vele Rete, the precise +situation of which is matter of discord among the navigators. Captain +Krusenstern went through this passage during the night, and that +a stormy one too, with perfect safety, keeping the middle of the +channel, and having men continually on the look-out. He seems to +prefer the position of Vele Rete and its reef of rocks, (of about two +miles circuit,) as given by Broughton, according to whose observations +the latitude is 21 deg. 43' 24", and the longitude 239 deg. 15'.--E.] + +After getting a sight of the Bashee islands, they stood between the S. +and S.W. for Cape Espiritu Santo; and, the 20th of May at noon, they +first discovered that cape, which about four o'clock they brought +to bear S.S.W. about eleven leagues distant. It appeared to be of a +moderate height, with several round hummocks on it. As it was known +that there were centinels placed upon this cape to make signals to the +Acapulco ship, when she first falls in with the land, the commodore +immediately tacked, and ordered the top-gallant sails to be taken in, +to prevent being discovered; and, this being the station in which it +was resolved to cruise for the galleons, they kept the cape between +the south and the west, and endeavoured to confine themselves between +the latitude of 12 deg. 50', and 13 deg. 5', the cape itself lying, by their +observations, in 12 deg. 40' north, and 4 deg. of east longitude from Botel +Tobago Xima. + +It was the last of May, when they arrived off this cape; and the month +of June being that in which the Manilla ships are usually expected, +the Centurion's people were now waiting each hour with the utmost +impatience for the happy crisis which was to balance the account +of all their past calamities. As from this time there was but small +employment for the crew, the commodore ordered them almost every day +to be exercised in the management of the great guns, and in the use +of their small arms. This had been his practice, more or less, at all +convenient seasons, during the whole course of his voyage; and the +advantages which he received from it, in his engagement with the +galleon, were an ample recompence for all his care and attention.[2] + +[Footnote 2: The original has here some reflections on the importance +and advantages of exercising the seamen in firing, &c. which, however +good, are too common and obvious to merit insertion. The art of +destroying men's lives has been abundantly improved since our author's +day.--E.] + +The galleons being now expected, the commodore made all necessary +preparations for receiving them, having hoisted out his long-boat, and +lashed her alongside, that the ship might be ready for engaging, if +they fell in with the galleons in the night. All this time too he was +very solicitous to keep at such a distance from the cape, as not to +be discovered: But it hath been since learnt, that notwithstanding +his care, he was seen from the land; and advice of him was sent +to Manilla, where it was at first disbelieved, but on reiterated +intelligence (for it seems he was seen more than once) their merchants +were alarmed, and the governor was applied to, who undertook (the +commerce supplying the necessary sums) to fit out a force consisting +of two ships of thirty-two guns, one of twenty guns, and two sloops +of ten guns each, to attack the Centurion on her station: And some +of these vessels did actually weigh with this view; but the principal +ship not being ready, and the monsoon being against then, the commerce +and the governor disagreed, and the enterprize was laid aside. This +frequent discovery of the Centurion from the shore was somewhat +extraordinary; for the pitch of the cape is not high, and she usually +kept from ten to fifteen leagues distant; though once indeed, by an +indraught of the tide, as was supposed, they found themselves in the +morning within seven leagues of the land. + +As the month of June advanced, the expectancy and impatience of the +commodore's people each day increased. And I think no better idea can +be given of their great eagerness on this occasion, than by copying a +few paragraphs from the journal of an officer, who was then on +board, as it will, I presume, be a more natural picture of the full +attachment of their thoughts to the business of their cruise, than can +be given by any other means. The paragraphs I have selected, as they +occur in order of time, are as follow: + +"_May_ 31. Exercising our men at their quarters, in great expectation +of meeting with the galleons very soon; this being the eleventh of +June their stile." + +"_June_ 3. Keeping in our stations, and looking out for the galleons." + +"_June_ 5. Begin now to be in great expectation, this being the middle +of June their stile." + +"_June_ 11. Begin to grow impatient at not seeing the galleons." + +"_June_ 13. The wind having blown fresh easterly for the forty-eight +hours past, gives us great expectations of seeing the galleons soon." + +"_June_ 15. Cruising on and off, and looking out strictly." + +"_June_ 19. This being the last day of June, N.S. the galleons, if +they arrive at all, must appear soon." + +From these samples it is sufficiently evident, how completely the +treasure of the galleons had engrossed their imagination, and how +anxiously they passed the latter part of their cruise, when the +certainty of the arrival of these vessels was dwindled down to +probability only, and that probability became each hour more and more +doubtful. However, on the 20th of June, O.S. being just a month from +their arrival on their station, they were relieved from this state +of uncertainty; when, at sun-rise, they discovered a sail from the +mast-head, in the S.E. quarter. On this, a general joy spread +through the whole ship; for they had no doubt but this was one of +the galleons, and they expected soon to see the other. The commodore +instantly stood towards her, and at half an hour after seven they were +near enough to see her from the Centurion's deck; at which time the +galleon fired a gun, and took in her top-gallant sails, which +was supposed to be a signal to her consort, to hasten her up; and +therefore the Centurion fired a gun to leeward, to amuse her. The +commodore was surprised to find, that in all this time the galleon +did not change her course, but continued to bear down upon him; for +he hardly believed, what afterwards appeared to be the case, that she +knew his ship to be the Centurion, and resolved to fight him. + +About noon the commodore was little more than a league distant from +the galleon, and could fetch her wake, so that she could not now +escape; and, no second ship appearing, it was concluded that she had +been separated from her consort. Soon after, the galleon haled up +her fore-sail, and brought-to under top-sails, with her head to the +northward, hoisting Spanish colours, and having the standard of Spain +flying at the top-gallant-mast-head. Mr Anson, in the mean time, had +prepared all things for an engagement on board the Centurion, and had +taken all possible care, both for the most effectual exertion of his +small strength, and for the avoiding the confusion and tumult too +frequent in actions of this kind. He picked out about thirty of his +choicest hands and best marksmen, whom he distributed into his tops, +and who fully answered his expectation, by the signal services +they performed. As he had not hands enough remaining to quarter a +sufficient number to each great gun, in the customary manner, he +therefore, on his lower tire, fixed only two men to each gun, who were +to be solely employed in loading it, whilst the rest of his people +were divided into different gangs of ten or twelve men each, who were +constantly moving about the decks, to ran out and fire such guns as +were loaded. By this management he was enabled to make use of all his +guns; and, instead of firing broad-sides with intervals between them, +he kept up a constant fire without intermission, whence he doubted not +to procure very signal advantages; for it is common with the Spaniards +to fall down upon the decks when they see a broadside preparing, and +to continue in that posture till it is given; after which they rise +again, and, presuming the danger to be for some time over, work their +guns, and fire with great briskness, till another broad-side is ready: +But the firing gun by gun, in the manner directed by the commodore, +rendered this practice of theirs impossible. + +The Centurion being thus prepared, and nearing the galleon apace, +there happened, a little after noon, several squalls of wind and rain, +which often obscured the galleon from their sight; but whenever it +cleared up, they observed her resolutely lying-to; and, towards one +o'clock, the Centurion hoisted her broad pendant and colours, she +being then within gun-shot of the enemy. And the commodore observing +the Spaniards to have neglected clearing their ship till that time, as +he then saw them throwing overboard cattle and lumber, he gave orders +to fire upon them with the chace-guns, to embarrass them in their +work, and prevent them from completing it, though his general +directions had been not to engage till they were within pistol-shot. +The galleon returned the fire with two of her stern-chacers; and, the +Centurion getting her sprit-sail-yard fore and aft, that if necessary +she might be ready for boarding, the Spaniards in a bravado rigged +their sprit-sail-yard fore and aft likewise. Soon after, the Centurion +came a-breast of the enemy within pistol-shot, keeping to the leeward +with a view of preventing them from putting before the wind, and +gaining the port of Jalapay, from which they were about seven leagues +distant. And now the engagement began in earnest, and, for the first +half hour, Mr Anson over-reached the galleon, and lay on her bow; +where, by the great wideness of his ports, he could traverse almost +all his guns upon the enemy, whilst the galleon could only bring a +part of hers to bear. Immediately on the commencement of the action, +the mats, with which the galleon had stuffed her netting, took fire, +and burnt violently, blazing up half as high as the mizen-top. This +accident (supposed to be caused by the Centurion's wads) threw +the enemy into great confusion, and at the same time alarmed the +commodore, for he feared least the galleon should be burnt, and least +he himself too might suffer by her driving on board him: But the +Spaniards at last freed themselves from the fire, by cutting away the +netting, and tumbling the whole mass, which was in flames, into the +sea. But still the Centurion kept her first advantageous position, +firing her cannon with great regularity and briskness, whilst at the +same time the galleon's decks lay open to her top-men, who, having +at their first volley driven the Spaniards from their tops, made +prodigious havock with their small-arms, killing or wounding every +officer but one that ever appeared on the quarter-deck, and wounding +in particular the general of the galleon himself. And though the +Centurion, after the first half hour, lost her original situation, +and was close alongside the galleon, and the enemy continued to +fire briskly for near an hour longer, yet at last the commodore's +grape-shot swept their decks so effectually, and the number of their +slain and wounded was so considerable, that they began to fall into +great disorder, especially as the general, who was the life of the +action, was no longer capable of exerting himself. Their embarrassment +was visible from on board the commodore. For the ships were so near, +that some of the Spanish officers were seen running about with great +assiduity, to prevent the desertion of their men from their quarters: +But all their endeavours were in vain; for after having, as a last +effort, fired five or six guns with more judgment than usual, they +gave up the contest; and, the galleon's colours being singed off +the ensign-staff in the beginning of the engagement, she struck +the standard at her main-top-gallant-mast-head, the person who was +employed to do it, having been in imminent peril of being killed, +had not the commodore, who perceived what he was about, given express +orders to his people to desist from firing. + +Thus was the Centurion possessed of this rich prize, amounting in +value to near a million and a half of dollars. She was called the +Nostra Signora de Cabadonga, and was commanded by the general Don +Jeronimo de Montero, a Portuguese by birth, and the most approved +officer for skill and courage of any employed in that service. The +galleon, was much larger than the Centurion, had five hundred and +fifty men and thirty-six guns mounted for action, besides twenty-eight +pidreroes in her gunwale, quarters and tops, each of which carried a +four-pound ball. She was very well furnished with small arms, and was +particularly provided against boarding, both by her close quarters, +and by a strong net-work of two-inch rope, which was laced over her +waist, and was defended by half pikes. She had sixty-seven killed in +the action, and eighty-four wounded, whilst the Centurion had only two +killed, and a lieutenant and sixteen wounded, all of whom, but one, +recovered: Of so little consequence are the most destructive arms in +untutored and unpractised hands. + +The treasure thus taken by the Centurion having been for at least +eighteen months the great object of their hopes, it is impossible +to describe the transport on board, when, after all their reiterated +disappointments, they at last saw their wishes accomplished. But their +joy was near being suddenly damped by a most tremendous incident: For +no sooner had the galleon struck, than one of the lieutenants coming +to Mr Anson to congratulate him on his prize, whispered him at +the same time, that the Centurion was dangerously on fire near the +powder-room. The commodore received this dreadful news without any +apparent emotion, and, taking care not to alarm his people, gave the +necessary orders for extinguishing it, which was happily done in a +short time, though its appearance at first was extremely terrible. It +seems some cartridges had been blown up by accident between decks, +by which a quantity of oakum in the after-hatch-way, near the +after-powder-room, was set on fire; and the great smother and smoke +of the oakum occasioned the apprehension of a more extended and +mischievous fire. At the same instant, too, the galleon fell on board +the Centurion on the starboard quarter, but she was cleared without +doing or receiving any considerable damage. + +The commodore made his first lieutenant, Mr Saumarez, captain of this +prize, appointing her a post-ship in his majesty's service. Captain +Saumarez, before night, sent on board the Centurion all the Spanish +prisoners, but such as were thought the most proper to be retained to +assist in navigating the galleon. And now the commodore learnt, from +some of the prisoners, that the other ship, which he had kept in the +port of Acapulco the preceding year, instead of returning in company +with the present prize, as was expected, had set sail from Acapulco +alone much sooner than usual, and had, in all probability, got into +the port of Manilla long before the Centurion arrived off Espiritu +Santo; so that Mr Anson, notwithstanding his present success, had +great reason to regret his loss of time at Macao, which prevented him +from taking two rich prizes instead of one. + +The commodore, when the action was ended, resolved to make the best of +his way with his prize for the river of Canton, being in the mean time +fully employed in securing his prisoners, and in removing the treasure +from on board the galleon into the Centurion. The last of these +operations was too important to be postponed; for as the navigation to +Canton was through seas but little known, and where, from the season +of the year, much bad weather might be expected, it was of great +consequence that the treasure should be sent on board the Centurion, +which ship, by the presence of the commander in chief, the greater +number of her hands, and her other advantages, was doubtless much +safer against all the casualties of winds and seas than the galleon; +and the securing the prisoners was a matter of still more consequence, +as not only the possession of the treasure, but the lives of the +captors, depended thereon. This was indeed an article which gave the +commodore much trouble and disquietude; for they were above double the +number of his own people; and some of them, when they were brought on +board the Centurion, and had observed how slenderly she was manned, +and the large proportion which the striplings bore to the rest, could +not help expressing themselves with great indignation to be thus +beaten by a handful of boys. The method, which was taken to hinder +them from rising, was by placing all but the officers and the +wounded in the hold, where, to give them as much air as possible, two +hatch-ways were left open; but then (to avoid all danger, whilst +the Centurion's people should be employed upon the deck) there was a +square partition of thick planks, made in the shape of a funnel, +which enclosed each hatch-way on the lower deck, and reached to +that directly over it on the upper deck; these funnels served to +communicate the air to the hold better than could have been done +without them; and, at the same time, added greatly to the security of +the ship; for they being seven or eight feet high, it would have been +extremely difficult for the Spaniards to have clambered up; and +still to augment that difficulty, four swivel-guns loaded with +musquet-bullets were planted at the mouth of each funnel, and a +centinel with lighted match constantly attended, prepared to fire into +the hold amongst them, in case of any disturbance. Their officers, +who amounted to seventeen or eighteen, were all lodged in the first +lieutenant's cabin, under a constant guard of six men; and the +general, as he was wounded, lay in the commodore's cabin with a +centinel always with him; and they were all informed, that any +violence or disturbance would be punished with instant death. And +that the Centurion's people might be at all times prepared, if, +notwithstanding these regulations, any tumult should arise, the small +arms were constantly kept loaded in a proper place, whilst all the men +went armed with cutlasses and pistols; and no officer ever pulled off +his cloaths, and when he slept had always his arms lying ready by him. + +These measures were obviously necessary, considering the hazards to +which the commodore and his people would have been exposed, had they +been less careful. Indeed, the sufferings of the poor prisoners, +though impossible to be alleviated, were much to be commiserated; for +the weather was extremely hot, the stench of the hold loathsome beyond +all conception, and their allowance of water but just sufficient to +keep them alive, it not being practicable to spare them more than at +the rate of a pint a-day for each, the crew themselves having only an +allowance of a pint and a half. All this considered, it was wonderful +that not a man of them died during their long confinement, except +three of the wounded, who died the same night they were taken; though +it must be confessed, that the greatest part of them were strangely +metamorphosed by the heat of the hold; for when they were first taken, +they were sightly, robust fellows; but when, after above a month's +imprisonment, they were discharged in the river of Canton, they were +reduced to mere skeletons; and their air and looks corresponded much +more to the conception formed of ghosts and spectres, than to the +figure and appearance of real men. + +Thus employed in securing the treasure and the prisoners, the +commodore stood for the river of Canton; and, on the 30th of June, at +six in the evening, got sight of Cape Delangano, which then bore west +ten leagues distant; and, the next day, he made the Bashee islands, +and the wind being so far to the northward, that it was difficult to +weather them, it was resolved to stand through between Grafton and +Monmouth islands, where the passage seemed to be clear; but in getting +through, the sea had a very dangerous aspect, for it rippled and +foamed, as if it had been full of breakers, which was still more +terrible, as it was then night. But the ships got through very safe, +(the prize always keeping a-head) and it was found that the appearance +which had alarmed them had been occasioned only by a strong tide. I +must here observe, that though the Bashee islands are usually reckoned +to be no more than five, yet there are many more lying about them +to the westward, which, as the channels amongst them are not at all +known, makes it advisable for ships, rather to pass to the northward +or southward, than through them; and indeed the commodore proposed +to have gone to the northward, between them and Formosa, had it been +possible for him to have weathered them. From hence the Centurion +steering the proper course for the river of Canton, she, on the 8th +of July, discovered the island of Supata, the westermost of the +Lema islands. This island they made to be an hundred and thirty-nine +leagues distant from Grafton's island, and to bear from it north 82 deg., +37 deg. west: And, on the 11th, having taken on board two Chinese pilots, +one for the Centurion, and the other for the prize, they came to an +anchor off the city of Macao. + +By this time the particulars of the cargo of the galleon were well +ascertained, and it was found that she had on board 1,313,843 pieces +of eight, and 35,682 oz. of virgin silver, besides some cochineal, and +a few other commodities, which, however, were but of small account, in +comparison of the specie. And this being the commodore's last prize, +it hence appears, that all the treasure taken by the Centurion was +not much short of 400,000l. independent of the ships and merchandise, +which she either burnt or destroyed, and which, by the most reasonable +estimation, could not amount to so little as 600,000l. more; so that +the whole loss of the enemy, by our squadron, did doubtless exceed a +million sterling. To which, if there be added the great expence of the +court of Spain, in fitting out Pizarro, and in paying the additional +charges in America, incurred on our account, together with the loss +of their men of war, the total of all these articles will be a most +exorbitant sum, and is the strongest conviction of the utility of this +expedition, which, with all its numerous disadvantages, did yet prove +so extremely prejudicial to the enemy. + + + +SECTION XXXI. + +_Transactions in the River of Canton._ + +The commodore, having taken pilots on board, proceeded with his prize +for the river of Canton; and on the 14th of July, came to an anchor +short of the Bocca Tigris, which is a narrow passage forming the mouth +of that river: This entrance he proposed to stand through the next +day, and to run up as far as Tiger island, which is a very safe road, +secured from all winds. But whilst the Centurion and her prize were +thus at anchor, a boat with an officer came off from the mandarine, +commanding the forts at Bocca Tigris, to examine what the ships were, +and whence they came. Mr Anson informed the officer, that his ship was +a ship of war, belonging to the king of Great Britain; and that the +other in company with him was a prize he had taken; that he was going +into Canton river to shelter himself against the hurricanes which were +then coming on; and that as soon as the monsoon shifted, he should +proceed for England. The officer then desired an account of what men, +guns, and ammunition were on board, a list of all which he said was +to be sent to the government of Canton. But when these articles were +repeated to him, particularly when he was told that there were in the +Centurion four hundred firelocks, and between three and four hundred +barrels of powder, he shrugged up his shoulders, and seemed to be +terrified with the bare recital, saying, that no ships ever came into +Canton river armed in that manner; adding, that he durst not set down +the whole of this force, lest it should too much alarm the regency. +After he had finished his enquiries, and was preparing to depart, he +desired to leave the two custom-house officers behind him; on which +the commodore told him, that though as a man of war he was prohibited +from trading, and had nothing to do with customs or duties of any +kind, yet, for the satisfaction of the Chinese, he would permit two +of their people to be left on board, who might themselves be witnesses +how punctually he should comply with his instructions. The officer +seemed amazed when Mr Anson mentioned being exempted from all duties, +and told him, that the emperor's duty must be paid by all ships +that came into his ports: And it is supposed, that on this occasion, +private directions were given by him to the Chinese pilot, not to +carry the commodore through the Bocca Tigris; which makes it necessary +more particularly to describe that entrance. + +The Bocca Tigris is a narrow passage, little more than musquet-shot +over, formed by two points of land, on each of which there is a fort, +that on the starboard-side being a battery on the water's edge, with +eighteen embrasures, but where there were no more than twelve iron +cannon mounted, seeming to be four or six pounders; the fort on the +larboard-side is a large castle, resembling those old buildings +which here in England we often find distinguished by that name; it is +situated on a high rock, and did not appear to be furnished with more +than eight or ten cannon, none of which were supposed to exceed six +pounders. These are the defences which secure the river of Canton; +and which the Chinese (extremely defective in all military skill) have +imagined were sufficient to prevent any enemy from forcing his way +through. + +But it is obvious, from the description of these forts, that they +could have given no obstruction to Mr Anson's passage, even if they +had been well supplied with gunners and stores; and therefore, though +the pilot, after the Chinese officer had been on board, refused at +first to take charge of the ship, till he had leave from the forts, +yet as it was necessary to get through without any delay, for fear of +the bad weather which was hourly expected, the commodore weighed on +the 15th, and ordered the pilot to carry him by the forts, threatening +him that, if the ship ran aground, he would instantly hang him up +at the yard-arm. The pilot, awed by these threats, carried the ship +through safely, the forts not attempting to dispute the passage. +Indeed the poor pilot did not escape the resentment of his countrymen, +for when he came on shore, he was seized and sent to prison, and was +rigorously disciplined with the bamboo. However, he found means to +get at Mr Anson afterwards, to desire of him some recompence for +the chastisement he had undergone, and of which he then carried very +significant marks about him; and Mr Anson, in commiseration of his +sufferings, gave him such a sum of money, as would at any time have +enticed a Chinese to have undergone a dozen bastinadings. + +Nor was the pilot the only person that suffered on this occasion; +for the commodore soon after seeing some royal junks pass by him from +Bocca Tigris towards Canton, he learnt, on enquiry, that the mandarine +commanding the forts was a prisoner on board them; that he was already +turned out, and was now carrying to Canton, where it was expected he +would be severely punished for having permitted the ships to pass; and +the commodore urging the unreasonableness of this procedure, from +the inability of the forts to have done otherwise, explaining to the +Chinese the great superiority his ships would have had over the forts, +by the number and size of their guns, the Chinese seemed to acquiesce +in his reasoning, and allowed that their forts could not have stopped +him; but they still asserted, that the mandarine would infallibly +suffer, for not having done what all his judges were convinced was +impossible. To such indefensible absurdities are those obliged to +submit who think themselves concerned to support their authority, when +the necessary force is wanting. + +On the 16th of July the commodore sent his second lieutenant to +Canton, with a letter to the viceroy, informing him of the reason of +the Centurion's putting into that port; and that the commodore himself +soon proposed to repair to Canton, to pay a visit to the viceroy. The +lieutenant was very civilly received, and was promised that an answer +should be sent to the commodore the next day. In the mean time Mr +Anson gave leave to several of the officers of the galleon to go to +Canton, they engaging their parole to return in two days. When these +prisoners got to Canton, the regency sent for them, and examined them, +enquiring particularly by what means they had fallen into Mr Anson's +power. And on this occasion the prisoners were honest enough to +declare, that as the kings of Great Britain and of Spain were at war, +they had proposed to themselves the taking of the Centurion, and +had bore down upon her with that view, but that the event had been +contrary to their hopes: However, they acknowledged that they had been +treated by the commodore, much better than they believed they should +have treated him, had he fallen into their hands. This confession from +an enemy had great weight with the Chinese, who, till then, though +they had revered the commodore's power, had yet suspected his morals, +and had considered him rather as a lawless freebooter, than as one +commissioned by the state for the revenge of public injuries. But +they now changed their opinion, and regarded him as a more important +person; to which perhaps the vast treasure of his prize might not a +little contribute; the acquisition of wealth being a matter greatly +adapted to the estimation and reverence of the Chinese nation. + +In this examination of the Spanish prisoners, though the Chinese had +no reason in the main to doubt of the account which was given them, +yet there were two circumstances which appeared to them so singular, +as to deserve a more ample explanation; one of them was the great +disproportion of men between the Centurion and the galleon; the other +was the humanity with which the people of the galleon were treated +after they were taken. The mandarines therefore asked the Spaniards, +how they came to be overpowered by so inferior a force; and how it +happened, since the two nations were at war, that they were not put +to death when they came into the hands of the English. To the first of +these enquiries the Spaniards replied, that though they had more hands +than the Centurion, yet she being intended solely for war, had a great +superiority in the size of her guns, and in many other articles, over +the galleon, which was a vessel fitted out principally for traffic: +And as to the second question, they told the Chinese, that amongst +the nations of Europe, it was not customary to put to death those who +submitted; though they readily owned, that the commodore, from +the natural bias of his temper, had treated both them and their +countrymen, who had formerly been in his power, with very unusual +courtesy, much beyond what they could have expected, or than was +required by the customs established between nations at war with each +other. These replies fully satisfied the Chinese, and at the same time +wrought very powerfully in the commodore's favour. + +On the 20th of July, in the morning, three mandarines, with a great +number of boats, and a vast retinue, came on board the Centurion, and +delivered to the commodore the viceroy of Canton's order for a daily +supply of provisions, and for pilots lo carry the ships up the river +as far as the second bar; and at the same time they delivered him a +message from the viceroy, in answer to the letter sent to Canton. The +substance of the message was, that the viceroy desired to be excused +from receiving the commodore's visit, during the then excessive hot +weather; because the assembling the mandarines and soldiers, necessary +to that ceremony, would prove extremely inconvenient and fatiguing; +but that in September, when the weather would be more temperate, he +should be glad to see both the commodore himself, and the English +captain of the other ship, that was with him. As Mr Anson knew that an +express had been dispatched to the court at Pekin, with an account of +the Centurion and her prize being arrived in the river of Canton, he +had no doubt, but the principal motive for putting off this visit was, +that the regency at Canton might gain time to receive the emperor's +instructions, about their behaviour on this unusual affair. + +When the mandarines had delivered their message, they began to talk +to the commodore about the duties to be paid by his ships; but he +immediately told them, that he would never submit to any demand of +that kind; that as he neither brought any merchandise thither, nor +intended to carry any away, he could not be reasonably deemed to +be within the meaning of the emperor's orders, which were doubtless +calculated for trading vessels only, adding, that no duties were ever +demanded of men of war, by nations accustomed to their reception, +and that his master's orders expressly forbad him from paying any +acknowledgement for his ships anchoring in any port whatever. + +The mandarines being thus cut short on the subject of the duty, they +said they had another matter to mention, which was the only remaining +one they had in charge; this was a request to the commodore, that he +would release the prisoners he had taken on board the galleon; for +that the viceroy of Canton apprehended the emperor, his master, might +be displeased, if he should be informed, that persons, who were his +allies, and carried on a great commerce with his subjects, were under +confinement in his dominions. Mr Anson was himself extremely desirous +to get rid of the Spaniards, having, on his first arrival, sent about +an hundred of them to Macao, and those who remained, near four hundred +more, were, on many accounts, a great incumbrance to him. However, +to enhance the favour, he at first raised some difficulties; but +permitting himself to be prevailed on, he at last told the mandarines, +that to show his readiness to oblige the viceroy, he would release the +prisoners, whenever they, the Chinese, would send boats to fetch them +off. This matter being thus adjusted, the mandarines departed; and, on +the 28th of July, two Chinese junks were sent from Canton, to take on +board the prisoners, and to carry them to Macao. And the commodore, +agreeable to his promise, dismissed them all, and ordered his purser +to send with them eight days provision for their subsistence, during +their sailing down the river; this being dispatched, the Centurion +and her prize came to her moorings, above the second bar, where they +proposed to continue till the monsoon shifted. + +Though the ships, in consequence of the viceroy's permit, found no +difficulty in purchasing provisions for their daily consumption, yet +it was impossible for the commodore to proceed to England; without +laying in a large quantity both of provisions and stores for his use, +during the voyage: The procuring this supply was attended with much +embarrassment; for there were people at Canton who had undertaken +to furnish him with biscuit, and whatever else he wanted; and his +linguist, towards the middle of September, had assured him, from +day to day, that all was ready, and would be sent on board him +immediately. But a fortnight being elapsed, and nothing being brought, +the commodore sent to Canton to enquire more particularly into the +reasons of this disappointment: And he had soon the vexation to be +informed, that the whole was an illusion: that no order had been +procured from the viceroy to furnish him with sea-stores, as had +been pretended; that there was no biscuit baked, nor any one of the +articles in readiness which had been promised him; nor did it appear, +that the contractors had taken the least step to comply with their +agreement. This was most disagreeable news, and made it suspected, +that the furnishing the Centurion for her return to Great Britain +might prove a more troublesome matter than had been hitherto imagined; +especially too, as the month of September was nearly elapsed, without +Mr Anson's having received any message from the viceroy of Canton. + +And here perhaps it might be expected that some satisfactory account +should be given of the motives of the Chinese for this faithless +procedure. But as I have already, in a former chapter, made some kind +of conjectures about a similar event, I shall not repeat them again +in this place, but shall observe, that after all, it may perhaps be +impossible for an European, ignorant of the customs and manners of +that nation, to be fully apprised of the real incitements to this +behaviour. Indeed, thus much may undoubtedly be asserted, that in +artifice, falsehood, and an attachment to all kinds of lucre, many of +the Chinese are difficult to be paralleled by any other people; but +then the combination of these talents, and the manner in which they +are applied in particular emergencies, are often beyond the reach of +a foreigner's penetration: So that though it may be safely concluded, +that the Chinese had some interest in thus amusing the commodore, yet +it may not be easy to assign the individual views by which they were +influenced. And that I may not be thought too severe in ascribing to +this nation a fraudulent and selfish turn of temper, so contradictory +to the character given of them in the legendary accounts of the Roman +missionaries, I shall here mention an extraordinary transaction or +two, which I hope will be some kind of confirmation of what I have +advanced. + +When the commodore lay first at Macao, one of his officers, who had +been extremely ill, desired leave of him to go on shore every day on +a neighbouring island, imagining that a walk upon the land would +contribute greatly to the restoring of his health: The commodore would +have dissuaded him, suspecting the tricks of the Chinese, but the +officer continuing importunate, in the end the boat was ordered to +carry him. The first day he was put on shore he took his exercise, and +returned without receiving any molestation, or even seeing any of +the inhabitants; but the second day, he was assaulted, soon after his +arrival, by a great number of Chinese who had been hoeing rice in the +neighbourhood, and who beat him so violently with the handles of their +hoes, that they soon laid him on the ground incapable of resistance; +after which they robbed him, taking from him his sword, the hilt of +which was silver, his money, his watch, gold-headed cane, snuff box, +sleeve-buttons, and hat, with several other trinkets: In the mean time +the boat's crew, who were at some little distance, and had no arms of +any kind with them, were incapable of giving him any assistance; +till at last one of them flew on the fellow who had the sword in his +possession, and wresting it out of his hands, drew it, and with it +was preparing to fall on the Chinese, some of whom he could not have +failed of killing; but the officer, perceiving what he was about, +immediately ordered him to desist, thinking it more prudent to +submit to the present violence, than to embroil his commodore in an +inextricable squabble with the Chinese government by the death +of their subjects; which calmness in this gentleman was the more +meritorious, as he was known to be a person of an uncommon spirit, and +of a somewhat hasty temper: By this means the Chinese recovered the +possession of the sword, which they soon perceived was prohibited +to be made use of against them, and carried off their whole booty +unmolested. No sooner were they gone, than a Chinese on horseback, +very well dressed, and who had the air and appearance of a gentleman, +came down to the shore, and, as far as could be understood by his +signs, seemed to censure the conduct of his countrymen, and to +commiserate the officer, being wonderfully officious to assist in +getting him on board the boat: But notwithstanding this behaviour, +it was shrewdly suspected that he was an accomplice in the theft, and +time fully evinced the justice of those suspicions. + +When the boat returned on board, and reported what had passed to +the commodore, he immediately complained of it to the mandarine, who +attended to see his ship supplied; but the mandarine coolly replied, +that the boat ought not to have gone on shore, promising, however, +that if the thieves could be found out, they should be punished; +though it appeared plain enough, by his manner of answering, that he +would never give himself any trouble in searching them out. However, +a considerable time afterwards, when some Chinese boats were selling +provisions to the Centurion, the person who had wrested the sword from +the Chinese came with great eagerness to the commodore, to assure +him that one of the principal thieves was then in a provision-boat +alongside the ship; and the officer, who had been robbed, viewing +the fellow on this report, and well remembering his face, orders were +immediately given to seize him; and he was accordingly secured on +board the ship, where strange discoveries were now made. + +This thief, on his being apprehended, expressed so much fright in his +countenance, that it was feared he would have died upon the spot; the +mandarine too, who attended the ship, had visibly no small share of +concern on the occasion. Indeed he had reason enough to be alarmed, +since it was soon evinced that he had been privy to the whole robbery, +for the commodore, declaring that he would not deliver up the thief, +but would himself order him to be shot, the mandarine immediately put +off the magisterial air with which be had at first pretended to +demand him, and begged his release in the most abject manner; and the +commodore appearing inflexible, there came on board, in less than two +hours time, five or six of the neighbouring mandarines, who all joined +in the same entreaty, and, with a view of facilitating their suit, +offered a large sum of money for the fellow's liberty. Whilst they +were thus soliciting, it was discovered that the mandarine, who was +the most active amongst them, and who seemed to be most interested in +the event, was the very gentleman who came to the officer just after +the robbery, and who pretended to be so much displeased with the +villainy of his countrymen. And, on further enquiry, it was found that +he was the mandarine of the island; and that he had, by the authority +of his office, ordered the peasants to commit that infamous action: +And it seemed, as far as could be collected from the broken hints +which were casually thrown out, that he and his brethren, who were all +privy to the transaction, were terrified with the fear of being +called before the tribunal at Canton, where the first article of their +punishment would be the stripping them of all they were worth; though +their judges (however fond of inflicting a chastisement so lucrative +to themselves) were perhaps of as tainted a complexion as the +delinquents. Mr Anson was not displeased to have caught the Chinese +in this dilemma; and he entertained himself for some time with their +perplexity, rejecting their money with scorn, appearing inexorable to +their prayers, and giving out that the thief should certainly be shot; +but as he then foresaw that he should be forced to take shelter in +their ports a second time, when the influence he might hereby acquire +over the magistrates would be of great service to him, he at length +permitted himself to be persuaded, and, as a favour, released his +prisoner, but not till the mandarine had collected and returned all +that had been stolen from the officer, even to the minutest trifle. + +But, notwithstanding this instance of the good intelligence between +the magistrates and criminals, the strong inclination of the Chinese +to lucre often prompts them to break through this awful confederacy, +and puts them on defrauding the authority that protects them, of its +proper quota of the pillage. For not long after the above-mentioned +transaction, (the former mandarine attendant on the ship, being, in +the mean time, relieved by another,) the commodore lost a top-mast +from his stern, which, after the most diligent enquiry, could not be +traced: As it was not his own, but had been borrowed at Macao to heave +down by, and was not to be replaced in that part of the world, he was +extremely desirous to recover it, and published a considerable reward +to any who would bring it him again. There were suspicions from the +first of its being stolen, which made him conclude a reward was the +likeliest method of getting it back: Accordingly, soon after, the +mandarine told him that some of his, the mandarine's people, had found +the top-mast, desiring the commodore to send his boats to fetch it, +which being done, the mandarine's people received the promised reward; +but the commodore told the mandarine that he would make him a present +besides for the care he had taken in directing it to be searched for, +and, accordingly, Mr Anson gave a sum of money to his linguist, to be +delivered to the mandarine; but the linguist knowing that the people +had been paid, and ignorant that a further present had been promised, +kept the money himself: However, the mandarine fully confiding in Mr +Anson's word, and suspecting the linguist, took occasion one morning +to admire the size of the Centurion's masts, and thence, on a +pretended sudden recollection, he made a digression to the top-mast +which had been lost, and asked Mr Anson if he had not got it again. Mr +Anson presently perceived the bent of this conversation, and enquired +of him if he had not received the money from the linguist, and finding +he had not, he offered to pay it him upon the spot. But this the +mandarine refused, having now somewhat more in view than the sum which +had been detained; for the next day the linguist was seized, and was +doubtless mulcted of all he had gotten in the commodore's service, +which was supposed to be little less than two thousand dollars; he +was, besides, so severely bastinadoed with the bamboo, that it was +with difficulty he escaped with life; and when he was upbraided by +the commodore (to whom he afterwards came begging) with his folly in +risking all he had suffered for fifty dollars (the present intended +for the mandarine.) he had no other excuse to make than the strong +bias of his nation to dishonesty, replying, in his broken jargon, +"Chinese man very great rogue truly, but have fashion, no can help." + +It were endless to recount all the artifices, extortions, and +frauds which were practised on the commodore and his people, by this +interested race. The method of buying all things in China being by +weight, the tricks made use of by the Chinese to increase the weight +of the provision they sold to the Centurion, were almost incredible. +One time a large quantity of fowls and ducks being bought for the +ship's use, the greatest part of them presently died. This alarmed the +people on board with the apprehensions that they had been killed by +poison, but, on examination, it appeared that it was only owing to +their being crammed with stones and gravel to increase their weight, +the quantity thus forced into most of the ducks being found to amount +to ten ounces in each. The hogs, too, which were bought ready killed +of the Chinese butchers, had water injected into them for the same +purpose; so that a carcass, hung up all night for the water to drain +from it, hath lost above a stone of its weight; and when, to avoid +this cheat, the hogs were bought alive, it was found that the Chinese +gave them salt to increase their thirst, and having by this means +excited them to drink great quantities of water, they then took +measures to prevent them from discharging it again by urine, and sold +the tortured animal in this inflated state. When the commodore first +put to sea from Macao, they practised an artifice of another kind; +for as the Chinese never object to the eating of any food that dies of +itself, they took care; by some secret practices, that great part +of his live sea-store should die in a short time after it was put on +board, hoping to make a second profit of the dead carcasses, which +they expected would be thrown overboard; and two-thirds of the hogs +dying before the Centurion was out of sight of land, many of the +Chinese boats followed her, only to pick up the carrion. These +instances may serve as a specimen of the manners of this celebrated +nation, which is often recommended to the rest of the world as a +pattern of all kinds of laudable qualities. + +The commodore, towards the end of September, having found out (as +has been said) that those who had contracted, to supply him with +sea-provisions and stores had deceived him, and that the viceroy had +not sent to him according to his promise, saw it would be impossible +for him to surmount the embarrassment he was under, without going +himself to Canton and visiting the viceroy; and, therefore, on the +27th. of September, he sent a message to the mandarine who attended +the Centurion, to inform him that he, the commodore, intended, on the +1st of October, to proceed in his boat to Canton, adding, that the day +after he got there he should notify his arrival to the viceroy, +and should desire him to fix a time for his audience; to which the +mandarine returned no other answer, than that he would acquaint the +viceroy with the commodore's intentions. In the mean time all things +were prepared for this expedition; and the boat's crew in particular, +which Mr Anson proposed to take with him, were cloathed in an uniform +dress, resembling that of the watermen on the Thames; they were in +number eighteen and a coxswain; they had scarlet jackets and blue +silk; waistcoats, the whole trimmed with silver buttons, and with +silver badges on their jackets and caps. As it was apprehended, +and even asserted, that the payment of the customary duties for the +Centurion and her prize would be demanded by the regency of Canton, +and would be insisted on previous to the granting a permission for +victualling the ship for her future voyage, the commodore, who was +resolved never to establish so dishonourable a precedent, took all +possible precaution to prevent the Chinese from facilitating the +success of their unreasonable pretensions, by having him in their +power at Canton; and, therefore, for the security of his ship, and +the great treasure on board her, he appointed his first lieutenant, +Mr Brett, to be captain of the Centurion under him, giving him proper +instructions for his conduct; directing him, particularly, if he, the +commodore, should be detained at Canton on account of the duties +in dispute, to take out the men from the Centurion's prize, and to +destroy her; and then to proceed down the river through the Bocca +Tigris with the Centurion alone, and to remain without that entrance +till he received further orders from Mr Anson. + +These necessary steps being taken, which were not unknown to the +Chinese, it should seem as if their deliberations were in some sort +embarrassed thereby. It is reasonable to imagine, that they were +in general very desirous of getting the duties to be paid them, not +perhaps solely in consideration of the amount of those dues, but to +keep up their reputation for address and subtlety, and to avoid +the imputation of receding from claims on which they had already so +frequently insisted: However, as they now foresaw that they had no +other method of succeeding than by violence, and that even against +this the commodore was prepared, they were at last disposed, I +conceive, to let the affair drop, rather than entangle themselves in +an hostile measure, which they found would only expose them to the +risk of having the whole navigation of their port destroyed, without +any certain prospect of gaining their favourite point. + +However, though there is reason to imagine that these were their +thoughts at that time, yet they could not depart at once from the +evasive conduct to which they had hither to adhered. For when the +commodore, on the morning of the 1st of October, was preparing to +set out for Canton, his linguist came to him from the mandarine, who +attended his ship, to tell him that a letter had been received from +the viceroy of Canton, desiring the commodore to put off his going +thither for two or three days: But in the afternoon of the same day +another linguist came on board, who, with much seeming fright, told Mr +Anson that the viceroy had expected him up that day, that the counsel +was assembled, and the troops had been under arms to receive him; and +that the viceroy was highly offended at the disappointment, and had +sent the commodore's linguist to prison chained, supposing that the +whole had been owing to the linguist's negligence. This plausible tale +gave the commodore great concern, and made him apprehend that there +was some treachery designed him, which he could not yet fathom; and +though it afterwards appeared that the whole was a fiction, not one +article of it having the least foundation, yet (for reasons best known +to themselves) this falsehood was so well supported by the artifices +of the Chinese merchants at Canton, that, three days afterwards, the +commodore received a letter, signed by all the supercargoes of the +English ships then at that place, expressing their great uneasiness at +what had happened, and intimating their fears that some insult would +be offered to his boat, if he came thither before the viceroy was +fully satisfied about the mistake. To this letter Mr Anson replied, +that he did not believe there had been any mistake, but was persuaded +it was a forgery of the Chinese, to prevent his visiting the viceroy; +that, therefore, he would certainly come up to Canton on the 13th of +October, confident that the Chinese would not dare to offer him an +insult, as well knowing it would be properly returned. + +On the 13th of October, the commodore continuing firm, to his +resolution, all the supercargoes of the English, Danish, and Swedish +ships, came on board the Centurion, to accompany him to Canton, for +which place he set out in his barge the same day, attended by his own +boats, and by those of the trading ships, which, on this occasion, +came to form his retinue; and, as he passed by Whampoa, where the +European vessels lay, he was saluted by all of them but the French, +and in the evening arrived safely at Canton. + + + +SECTION XXXII. + +_Proceedings at the City of Canton, and the Return of the Centurion to +England._ + +When the commodore arrived at Canton, he was visited by the principal +Chinese merchants, who affected to appear very much pleased that +he had met with no obstruction in getting thither, and who thence +pretended to conclude that the viceroy was satisfied about the former +mistake, the reality of which they still insisted on; they added, that +as soon as the viceroy should be informed that Mr Anson was at Canton +(which they promised should be done the next morning,) they were +persuaded a day would be immediately appointed for the visit, which +was the principal business that had brought the commodore thither. + +The next day the merchants returned to Mr Anson, and told him that +the viceroy was then so fully employed in preparing his dispatches for +Pekin, that there was no getting admittance to him for some days, but +that they had engaged one of the officers of his court to give them +information as soon as he should be at leisure, when they proposed +to notify Mr Anson's arrival, and to endeavour to fix the day of +audience. The commodore was by this time too well acquainted with +their artifices not to perceive that this was a falsehood; and had he +consulted only his own judgment, he would have applied directly to +the viceroy by other hands: But the Chinese merchants had so far +prepossessed the supercargoes of our ships with chimerical fears, +that they were extremely apprehensive of being embroiled with the +government, and of suffering in their interest, if those measures +were taken, which appeared to Mr Anson at that time to be the most +prudential; and, therefore, lest the malice and double-dealing of the +Chinese might have given rise to some sinister incident, which would +be afterwards charged on him, he resolved to continue passive as long +as it should appear that he lost no time by thus suspending his own +opinion. With this view, he promised not to take any immediate step +for getting admittance to the viceroy, provided the Chinese with whom +he contracted for provisions would let him see that his bread was +baked, his meat salted, and his stores prepared with the utmost +dispatch; but if by the time when all was in readiness to be shipped +off (which it was supposed would be in about forty days,) the +merchants should not have procured the viceroy's permission, then, the +commodore proposed to apply for himself. These were the terms Mr Anson +thought proper to offer, to quiet the uneasiness of the supercargoes, +and, notwithstanding the apparent equity of the conditions, many +difficulties and objections were urged; nor would the Chinese agree +to them till the commodore had consented to pay for every article +he bespoke before it was put in hand. However, at last, the contract +being past, it was some satisfaction to the commodore to be certain +that his preparations were now going on, and being himself on the +spot, he took care to hasten them as much as possible. + +During this interval, in which the stores and provisions were getting +ready, the merchants continually entertained Mr Anson with accounts of +their various endeavours to get a license from the viceroy, and their +frequent disappointments, which to him was now a matter of amusement, +as he was fully satisfied there was not one word of truth in any thing +they said. But when all was completed, and wanted only to be shipped, +which was about the 24th of November, at which time too the N.E. +monsoon was set in, he then resolved to apply himself to the viceroy +to demand an audience, as he was persuaded that, without this +ceremony, the procuring a permission to send his stores on board would +meet with great difficulty. On the 24th of November, therefore, Mr +Anson sent one of his officers to the Mandarine, who commanded the +guard of the principal gate of the city of Canton, with a letter +directed to the viceroy. When this letter was delivered to the +mandarine, he received the officer who brought it very civilly, and +took down the contents of it in Chinese, and promised that the viceroy +should be immediately acquainted with it; but told the officer it was +not necessary for him to wait for an answer, because a message would +be sent to the commodore himself. + +On this occasion Mr Anson had been under great difficulties about a +proper interpreter to send with his officer, as he was well aware that +none of the Chinese, usually employed as linguists, could be relied +on: But he at last prevailed with Mr Flint, an English gentleman +belonging to the factory, who spoke Chinese perfectly well, to +accompany his officer. This person, who upon this occasion and many +others was of singular service to the commodore, had been left at +Canton when a youth, by the late Captain Rigby. The leaving him there +to learn the Chinese language was a step taken by that captain, merely +from his own persuasion of the great advantages which the East-India +company might one day receive from an English interpreter; and though +the utility of this measure has greatly exceeded all that was expected +from it, yet I have not heard that it has been to this day imitated: +But we imprudently choose (except in this single instance) to carry on +the vast transactions of the port of Canton, either by the ridiculous +jargon of broken English, which some few of the Chinese have +learnt, or by the suspected interpretation of the linguists of other +nations.[1] + +[Footnote 1: The practice recommended, it is almost unnecessary to +remark, has been adopted since our author's time, but certainly not to +the extent the probable advantages of it would suggest.--E.] + +Two days after the sending the above-mentioned letter, a fire broke +out in the suburbs of Canton. On the first alarm, Mr Anson went +thither with his officers, and his boat's crew, to assist the Chinese. +When he came there, he found that it had begun in a sailor's shed, and +that by the slightness of the buildings, and the awkwardness of the +Chinese, it was getting head apace: But he perceived, that by pulling +down some of the adjacent sheds it might easily be extinguished; and +particularly observing that it was running along a wooden cornish, +which would soon communicate it to a great distance, he ordered his +people to begin with tearing away that cornish; this was presently +attempted, and would have been soon executed; but, in the meantime, he +was told, that, as there was no mandarine there to direct what was +to be done, the Chinese would make him, the commodore, answerable +for whatever should be pulled down by his orders. On this his people +desisted; and he sent them to the English factory, to assist in +securing the company's treasure and effects, as it was easy to foresee +that no distance was a protection against the rage of such a fire, +where so little was done to put a stop to it; for all this time the +Chinese contented themselves with viewing it, and now and then holding +one of their idols near it, which they seemed to expect should check +its progress: However, at last, a mandarine came out of the city, +attended by four or five hundred firemen: These made some feeble +efforts to pull down the neighbouring houses; but by this time the +fire had greatly extended itself, and was got amongst the merchants' +warehouses; and the Chinese firemen, wanting both skill and spirit, +were incapable of checking its violence; so that its fury increased +upon them, and it was feared the whole city would be destroyed, in +this general confusion the viceroy himself came thither, and the +commodore was sent to, and was entreated to afford his assistance, +being told that he might take any measures he should think most +prudent in the present emergency. And now he went thither a second +time, carrying with him about forty of his people; who, upon this +occasion, exerted themselves in such a manner, as in that country +was altogether without example: For they were rather animated than +deterred by the flames and falling buildings, amongst which they +wrought; so that it was not uncommon to see the most forward of them +tumble to the ground on the roofs, and amidst the ruins of houses, +which their own efforts brought down with them. By their boldness +and activity the fire was soon extinguished, to the amazement of the +Chinese; and the building being all on one floor, and the materials +slight, the seamen, notwithstanding their daring behaviour, happily +escaped with no other injuries, than some considerable bruises. The +fire, though at last thus luckily extinguished, did great mischief +during the time it continued; for it consumed an hundred shops and +eleven streets full of warehouses, so that the damage amounted to +an immense sum; and one of the Chinese merchants, well known to the +English, whose name was Succoy, was supposed, for his own share, to +have lost near two hundred thousand pounds sterling. It raged indeed +with unusual violence, for in many of the warehouses, there were large +quantities of camphor, which greatly added to its fury, and produced a +column of exceeding white flame, which shot up into the air to such +a prodigious height that it was plainly seen on board the Centurion, +though she was thirty miles distant. + +Whilst the commodore and his people were labouring at the fire, and +the terror of its becoming general still possessed the whole city, +several of the most considerable Chinese merchants came to Mr Anson, +to desire that he would let each of them have one of his soldiers (for +such they styled his boat's crew from the uniformity, of their dress) +to guard their warehouses and dwellings-houses, which, from the known +dishonesty of the populace, they feared would be pillaged in the +tumult. Mr Anson granted them this request; and all the men that he +thus furnished to the Chinese behaved greatly to the satisfaction of +their employers, who afterwards highly applauded their great diligence +and fidelity. + +By this means, the resolution of the English at the fire, and their +trustiness and punctuality elsewhere, was the general subject of +conversation amongst the Chinese: And, the next morning, many of the +principal inhabitants waited on the commodore to thank him for +his assistance; frankly owning to him, that they could never have +extinguished the fire of themselves, and that he had saved their city +from being totally consumed. And soon after a message came to the +commodore from the viceroy, appointing the 30th of November for his +audience; which sudden resolution of the viceroy, in a matter that had +been so long agitated in vain, was also owing to the signal services +performed by Mr Anson and his people at the fire, of which the viceroy +himself had been in some measure an eye-witness. + +The fixing this business of the audience, was, on all accounts, a +circumstance which Mr Anson was much pleased with; as he was satisfied +that the Chinese government would not have determined this point, +without having agreed among themselves to give up their pretensions to +the duties they claimed, and to grant him all he could reasonably ask; +for as they well knew the commodore's sentiments, it would have been +a piece of imprudence, not consistent with the refined cunning of the +Chinese, to have admitted him to an audience, only to have contested +with him. And therefore, being himself perfectly easy about the result +of his visit, he made all necessary preparations against the day. +Mr Flint, whom he engaged to act as interpreter in the conference, +acquitted himself much to the commodore's satisfaction; repeating with +great boldness; and doubtless with exactness, all that was given in +charge, a part which no Chinese linguist would ever have performed +with any tolerable fidelity. + +At ten o'clock in the morning, on the day appointed, a mandarine +came to the commodore, to let him know that the viceroy was ready to +receive him; on which the commodore and his retinue immediately set +out: And as soon as he entered the outer gate of the city, he found +a guard of two hundred soldiers drawn up ready to attend him; these +conducted him to the great parade before the emperor's palace, where +the viceroy then resided. In this parade, a body of troops, to the +number of ten thousand, were drawn up under arms, and made a very fine +appearance, being all of them new clothed for this ceremony: And Mr +Anson and his retinue having passed through the middle of them, he +was then conducted to the great hall of audience, where he found the +viceroy seated under a rich canopy in the emperor's chair of state, +with all his council of mandarines attending: Here there was a +vacant seat prepared for the commodore, in which he was placed on +his arrival: He was ranked the third it order from the viceroy, there +being above him only the head of the law, and of the treasury, who in +the Chinese government take place of all military officers. When +the commodore was seated, he addressed himself to the viceroy by +his interpreter, and began with reciting the various methods he had +formerly taken to get an audience; adding, that he imputed the delays +he had met with to the insincerity of those he had employed, and that +he had therefore no other means left, than to send, as he had done, +his own officer with a letter to the gate. On the mention of this the +viceroy stopped the interpreter, and bid him assure Mr Anson, that the +first knowledge they had of his being at Canton, was from that letter. +Mr Anson then proceeded, and told him, that the subjects of the +king of Great Britain trading to China had complained to him, the +commodore, of the vexatious impositions both of the merchants +and inferior custom-house officers, to which they were frequently +necessitated to submit, by reason of the difficulty of getting access +to the mandarines, who alone could grant them redress: That it was +his, Mr Anson's, duty, as an officer of the king of Great Britain, to +lay before the viceroy these grievances of the British subjects, which +he hoped the viceroy would take into consideration, and would give +orders, that for the future there should be no just reason for +complaint. Here Mr Anson paused, and waited some time in expectation +of an answer; but nothing being said, he asked his interpreter if he +was certain the viceroy understood what he had urged; the interpreter +told him, he was certain it was understood, but he believed no reply +would be made to it. Mr Anson then represented to the viceroy the case +of the ship Haslingfield, which, having been dismasted on the coast of +China, had arrived in the river of Canton but a few days before. The +people on board this vessel had been great sufferers by the fire; the +captain in particular had all his goods burnt, and had lost besides, +in the confusion, a chest of treasure of four thousand five hundred +tahel, which was supposed to be stolen by the Chinese boat-men. Mr +Anson therefore desired that the captain might have the assistance +of the government, as it was apprehended the money could never be +recovered without the interposition of the mandarines. And to this +request the viceroy made answer, that in settling the emperor's +customs for that ship, some abatement should be made in consideration +of her losses. + +And now the commodore having dispatched the business with which the +officers of the East-India company had entrusted him, he entered on +his own affairs; acquainting the viceroy, that the proper season was +now set in for returning to Europe, and that he waited only for a +licence to ship off his provisions and stores, which were all ready; +and that as soon as this should be granted him, and he should have +gotten his necessaries on board, he intended to leave the river of +Canton, and to make the best of his way for England. The viceroy +replied to this, that the licence should be immediately issued, and +that every thing should be ordered on board the following day. And +finding that Mr Anson had nothing farther to insist on, the viceroy +continued the conversation for some time, acknowledging in very civil +terms how much the Chinese were obliged to him for his signal +services at the fire, and owning that he had saved the city from being +destroyed: And then observing that the Centurion had been a good while +on their coast, he closed his discourse, by wishing the commodore a +good voyage to Europe. After which, the commodore, thanking him for +his civility and assistance, took his leave. + +As soon as the commodore was out of the hall of audience, he was +much pressed to go into a neighbouring apartment, where there was +an entertainment provided; but finding, on enquiry, that the viceroy +himself was not to be present, he declined the invitation, and +departed, attended in the same manner as at his arrival; only at his +leaving the city he was saluted by three guns, which are as many as +in that country are ever fired on any ceremony. Thus the commodore, +to his great joy, at last finished this troublesome affair, which, for +the preceding four months, had given him great disquietude. Indeed he +was highly pleased with procuring a licence for the shipping of his +stores and provisions; for thereby he was enabled to return to Great +Britain with the first of the monsoon, and to prevent all intelligence +of his being expected: But this, though a very important point, was +not the circumstance which gave him the greatest satisfaction; for he +was more particularly attentive to the authentic precedent established +on this occasion, by which his majesty's ships of war are for the +future exempted from all demands of duty in any of the ports of China. + +In pursuance of the promises of the viceroy, the provisions were begun +to be sent on board the day after the audience; and, four days after, +the commodore embarked at Canton for the Centurion; and on the 7th +of December, the Centurion and her prize unmoored, and stood down +the river, passing through the Bocca Tigris on the 10th. And on this +occasion I must observe, that the Chinese had taken care to man the +two forts, on each side of that passage, with as many men as they +could well contain, the greatest part of them armed with pikes and +match-lock musquets. These garrisons affected to shew themselves as +much as possible to the ships, and were doubtless intended to induce +Mr Anson to think more reverently than he had hitherto done of the +Chinese military power: For this purpose they were equipped with much +parade, having a great number of colours exposed to view; and on +the castle in particular there were laid considerable heaps of large +stones; and a soldier of unusual size, dressed in very sightly +armour, stalked about on the parapet with a battle-axe in his hand, +endeavouring to put on as important and martial an air as possible, +though some of the observers on board the Centurion shrewdly +suspected, from the appearance of his armour, that instead of steel, +it was composed only of a particular kind of glittering paper. + +The Centurion and her prize being now without the river of Canton, and +consequently upon the point of leaving the Chinese jurisdiction, I beg +leave, before I quit all mention of the Chinese affairs, to subjoin +a few remarks on the disposition and genius of that extraordinary +people. And though it may be supposed, that observations made at +Canton only, a place situated in the corner of the empire, are very +imperfect materials on which to found any general conclusions, yet as +those who have had opportunities of examining the inner parts of +the country, have been evidently influenced by very ridiculous +prepossessions, and as this transactions of Mr Anson with the regency +of Canton were of an uncommon nature, in which many circumstances +occurred, different perhaps from any which have happened before, +I hope the following reflections, many of them drawn from these +incidents, will not be altogether unacceptable to the reader. + +That the Chinese are a very ingenious and industrious people, is +sufficiently evinced, from the great number of curious manufactures +which are established amongst them, and which are eagerly sought for +by the most distant nations; but though skill in the handicraft arts +seems to be the most important qualification of this people, yet +their talents therein are but of a second-rate kind; for they are much +out-done by the Japanese in those manufactures, which are common +to both countries; and they are in numerous instances incapable of +rivalling the mechanic dexterity of the Europeans. Indeed, their +principal excellency seems to be imitation; and they accordingly +labour under that poverty of genius, which constantly attends all +servile imitators. This is most conspicuous in works which require +great truth and accuracy; as in clocks, watches, fire-arms, &c. for in +all these, though they can copy the different parts, and can form +some resemblance of the whole, yet they never could arrive at such +a justness in their fabric, as was necessary to produce the desired +effect. And if we pass from their manufactures to artists of a +superior class, as painters, statuaries, &c., in these matters they +seem to be still more defective, their painters, though very numerous +and in great esteem, rarely succeeding in the drawing or colouring of +human figures; or in the grouping of large compositions; and though in +flowers and birds their, performances are much more admired, yet even +in these, some part of the merit is rather to be imputed to the native +brightness and excellency of the colours, than to the skill of the +painter; since it is very unusual to see the light and shade justly +and naturally handled, or to find that ease and grace in the drawing, +which are to be met with in the works of European artists; In +short, there is a stiffness and minuteness in most of the Chinese +productions, which are extremely displeasing: And it may perhaps +be asserted with great truth, that these defects in their arts are +entirely owing to the peculiar turn of the people, amongst whom +nothing greater spirited is to be met with. + +If we next examine the Chinese literature; (taking our accounts from +the writers, who have endeavoured to represent sent it in the most +favourable light) we shall find; that on this head their obstinacy +and absurdity are most wonderful: For though, for many ages, they have +been surrounded by nations, to whom the use of letters was familiar, +yet they, the Chinese alone, have hitherto neglected to avail +themselves of that almost divine invention, and have continued to +adhere to the rude and inartificial method of representing words by +arbitrary marks; a method, which necessarily renders the number of +their character too great for human memory to manage, makes writing +to be an art that requires prodigious application, and in which no +man can be otherwise than partially skilled; whilst all reading, and +understanding of what is written, is attended with infinite obscurity +and confusion; for the connection between these marks, and the words +they represent; cannot be retained in books, but must be delivered +down from age to age by oral tradition: And how uncertain this must +prove in such a complicated subject, is sufficiently obvious to those +who have attended to the variation which all verbal relations undergo, +when they are transmitted through three or four hands only. Hence it +is easy to conclude, that the history and inventions of past +ages, recorded by these perplexed symbols, must frequently prove +unintelligible; and consequently the learning and boasted antiquity of +the nation most, in numerous instances, be extremely problematical. + +But we are told by some of the missionaries, that though the skill +of the Chinese in science is indeed much inferior to that of the +Europeans, yet the morality and justice taught and practised by them +are most exemplary. And from the description given by some of these +good fathers, one should be induced to believe that the whole empire +was a well-governed affectionate family, where the only contests were, +who should exert the most humanity and beneficence: But our preceding +relation of the behaviour of the magistrates, merchants, and tradesmen +at Canton, sufficiently refutes these jesuitical fictions. And as +to their theories of morality, if we may judge from the specimens +exhibited in the works of the missionaries, we shall find them solely +employed in recommending ridiculous attachments to certain immaterial +points, instead of discussing the proper criterion of human actions, +and regulating the general conduct of mankind to one another on +reasonable and equitable principles. Indeed, the only pretension +of the Chinese to a more refined morality than their neighbours is +founded, not on their integrity or beneficence, but solely on the +affected evenness of their demeanour, and their constant attention +to suppress all symptoms of passion and violence. But it must be +considered, that hypocrisy and fraud are often not less mischievous to +the general interests of mankind, than, impetuosity and vehemence +of temper, since these, though usually liable to the imputation of +imprudence, do not exclude sincerity, benevolence, resolution, +nor many other laudable qualities. And perhaps if this matter were +examined to the bottom, it would appear that the calm and patient +turn of the Chinese, on which they so much value themselves, and which +distinguishes the nation from all others, is in reality the source of +the most exceptionable part of their character; for it has been often +observed by those who have attended to the nature of mankind, that +it is difficult to curb the more robust and violent passions, without +augmenting at the same time the force of the selfish ones: So that the +timidity, dissimulation, and dishonesty of the Chinese, may, in some +sort, be owing to the composure and external decency so universally +prevailing in that empire. + +Thus much for the general disposition of the people: But I cannot +dismiss this subject without adding a few words about the Chinese +government, that too having been the subject of boundless panegyric. +And on this head I must observe, that the favourable accounts often +given of their prudent regulations for the administration of their +domestic affairs, are sufficiently confuted by their transactions with +Mr Anson: For we have seen that their magistrates are corrupt, their +people thievish, and their tribunals crafty and venal. Nor is the +constitution of the empire, or the general orders of the state, less +liable to exception: Since that form of government, which does not +in the first place provide for the security of the public against +the enterprises of foreign powers, is certainly a most defective +institution: And yet this populous, this rich, and extensive country, +so pompously celebrated for its refined wisdom and policy, was +conquered about an age since by an handful of Tartars; and even now, +by the cowardice of the inhabitants, and the want of proper military +regulations, it continues exposed not only to the attempts of any +potent state, but to the ravages of every petty invader. I have +already observed, on occasion of the commodore's disputes with the +Chinese, that the Centurion alone was an overmatch for all the +naval power of that empire: This perhaps may appear an extraordinary +position; but to render it unquestionable, one may refer to vessels +made use of by the Chinese.[2] The first of these is a junk of about +a hundred and twenty tons burden, and was what the Centurion hove down +by; these are most used in the great rivers, though they sometimes +serve for small coasting voyages: The other junk is about two hundred +and eighty tons burden, and is of the same form with those in which +they trade to Cochinchina, Manilla, Batavia, and Japan, though some of +their trading vessels are of a much larger size; its head is perfectly +flat; and when the vessel is deep laden, the second or third plank +of this flat surface is oft-times under water. The masts, sails, and +rigging of these vessels are ruder than their built; for their masts +are made of trees, no otherwise fashioned than by barking them, and +lopping off their branches. Each mast has only two shrouds made of +twisted rattan, which are often both shifted to the weather-side; and +the halyard, when the yard is up, serves instead of a third shroud. +The sails are made of mat, strengthened every thee feet by an +horizontal rib of bamboo; they run upon the mast with hoops, and when +they are lowered down, they fold upon the deck. These merchantmen +carry no cannon; and it appears, from this whole description, that +they are utterly incapable of resisting any European armed, vessel. +Nor is the state provided with ships of considerable force, or of a +better fabric, to protect them: For at Canton, where doubtless their +principal naval power is stationed, we saw no more than four men +of war junks, of about three hundred tons burden, being of the make +already described, and mounted only with eight or ten guns, the +largest of which does not exceed a four-pounder. This may suffice to +give an idea of the defenceless state of the Chinese empire. But it +is time to return to the commodore, whom I left with his two ships +without the Bocca Tigris; and who, on the 12th of December, anchored +before the town of Macao. + +[Footnote 2: The plate is necessarily omitted.] + +Whilst the ships lay here, the merchants of Macao finished their +agreement for the galleon, for which they had offered 6000 dollars; +this was much short of her value, but the impatience of the commodore +to get to sea, to which the merchants were no strangers, prompted them +to insist on so unequal a bargain. Mr Anson had learnt enough from the +English at Canton, to conjecture that the war betwixt Great Britain +and Spain was still continued; and that probably the French might +engage in the assistance of Spain, before he could arrive in Great +Britain; and therefore knowing, that no intelligence could get to +Europe of the prize he had taken, and the treasure he had on board, +till the return of the merchantmen from Canton, he was resolved to +make all possible expedition in getting back, that he might be himself +the first messenger of his own good fortune, and might thereby prevent +the enemy from forming any projects to intercept him: For these +reasons, he, to avoid all delay, accepted of the sum offered for +the galleon; and she being delivered to the merchants the 15th of +December, 1743, the Centurion the same day got under sail, on her +return to England. And on the 3d of January, she came to an anchor at +Prince's Island, in the straits of Sunda, and continued there wooding +and watering till the 8th, when, she weighed and stood for the Cape of +Good Hope, where, on the eleventh of March she anchored in Table-Bay. + +Here the commodore continued till the beginning of April, highly +delighted with the place, which, by its extraordinary accommodations, +the healthiness of its air, and the picturesque appearance of the +country, all enlivened by the addition of a civilized colony, was +not disgraced in an imaginary comparison with the vallies of Juan +Fernandez, and the lawns of Tinian. During his stay he entered about +forty new men; and having by the 3d of April, 1744, completed his +water and provision, he on that day weighed and put to sea; and on +the 19th of the same month they saw the island of St Helena, which, +however, they did not touch at, but stood on their way; and, on the +10th of June, being then in soundings, they spoke with an English ship +from Amsterdam bound for Philadelphia, whence they received the first +intelligence of a French war; the 12th they got sight of the Lizard; +and the 15th, in the evening, to their infinite joy, they came safe to +an anchor at Spithead. But that the signal perils which had so often +threatened them in the preceding part of the enterprise, might pursue +them to the very last, Mr Anson learnt on his arrival, that there +was a French fleet of considerable force cruising in the chops of +the channel, which, by the account of their position, he found the +Centurion had run through, and had been all the time concealed by a +fog. Thus was this expedition finished, when it had lasted three years +and nine months; after having, by its event, strongly evinced this +important truth, that though prudence, intrepidity, and perseverance +united, are not exempted from the blows of adverse fortune; yet in a +long series of transactions, they usually rise superior to its power, +and in the end rarely fail of proving successful. + + * * * * * + +[In concluding the account of this very interesting circumnavigation, +it is necessary to advert to a question of some importance in +literature, as every question must be that involves the claims of +authors and their respective titles to reputation. Nor is the public +often impatient in listening to evidence on such subjects, if the +merit contended for be sufficiently great to justify solicitude as +to its being rightly conferred. That it is so in the case of the +question, Who was the author of this work? no one can doubt, that is +capable of relishing its excellencies; or is aware of the high rank +it has always held among compositions of the kind--that its first +reception was such as to take off four large impressions within a +twelvemonth--that it has been repeatedly printed since in a variety of +forms--and that it has been translated into most of the languages of +Europe. The claimants are Mr Walter, chaplain of the Centurion, under +whose name (as is mentioned in this volume of the Collection, p. 201,) +it was originally, and, so far as the editor knows, always published; +and Mr Benjamin Robins, an ingenious mathematician, and author of +several works, much esteemed by men of science. A short statement of +such information as the editor has been able to procure, is all that +the limits of this work will permit to be said on the subject of this +question. The public, being interested in what had been generally +reported through the medium of the periodical publications, respecting +the proceedings and fate of the squadron under Commodore Anson, +had eagerly expected some account of this voyage drawn up under his +notice, or authenticated by his approval. This anxiety, it is likely, +was not a little enhanced by the circumstance of several small, but +curious enough, narratives having been published of the distresses +experienced by part of the squadron, especially the Wager; from which +it was naturally enough inferred, that a judicious and minute account +of the whole could not fail to gratify rational curiosity, and the +common disposition to wonder. Mr Walter, accordingly, who had gone in +the Centurion, the commodore's vessel, as chaplain, and who, it seems, +had been in the habit of keeping memorials of the transactions and +occurrences of the squadron, prepared materials for publication, and +actually procured subscriptions for the liquidation of its expense. He +brought down his narrative to the time of his leaving the Centurion at +Macao, when he returned by another conveyance to England. But as the +public expectation had been raised very high, some persons, it would +appear, suggested that the materials intended to be published should +be carefully examined, and, if need be, corrected, by an adequate +judge of literary and scientific composition. Mr Robins, already well +known as an author of both mathematical and political essays, and much +valued by several distinguished characters of the times, was engaged +to undertake this task, whether with or without the desire of Mr +Walter, or under any allegation of that gentleman's known or +reputed incompetency to fulfil the hopes entertained, cannot now +be discovered. On examination, we are told, it was resolved that Mr +Robins should write the whole work anew, and merely use the materials +furnished by Mr Walter, or otherwise, as the particulars of wind, +weather, currents, courses, &c. &c. usually given in a sailor's +journal. The introduction, and several dissertations interspersed +through, the work, are said, moreover, to have been written by Mr +Robins without any such assistance whatever; but to what magnitude his +labours throughout amounted, it is perhaps impossible to ascertain. +That he acquired reputation by it is unquestionable; but that Mr +Walter himself should not have contributed so much as to warrant his +name appearing on the title-page of the book, and at its dedication to +the Duke of Bedford, would require a proof of both want of talents and +meanness of disposition, which no one yet has attempted to adduce. Mr +Walter's character, indeed, seems to have been quite above either such +deficiency; and, in all probability, was, both in point of firmness +and moral and intellectual worth, the very circumstance which obtained +for him the appointment to a responsible office in an expedition, +which, in its origin, progress, and issue, attracted the peculiar +regard of the British government, and the admiration of mankind in +general. Besides this office, it may be mentioned, that in 1745, on +his return from the expedition, he was made chaplain of Portsmouth +dock-yard, in which situation he continued till his death on March +10th, 1785. The first edition of the work appeared in 1748; and a +fifth being required in the following year, Mr Robins, it is said, +revised it, and intended, had he remained in England, to have added a +second volume. This rests on the assertion of Dr Wilson, who published +Mr Robins' works after his death, in 2 vols. 8vo. 1761; and who, in +the account of that gentleman's life prefixed, has been at pains to +claim, in the strongest language, the merit of the Narrative for his +friend. A passage or two from that memoir may satisfy the reader as to +this part of the evidence, and as to the opinion of Dr W. one of the +principal witnesses, respecting the proportional labours of Messrs +Walter and Robins. "Upon a strict perusal of both the performances," +says he, "I find Mr Robins' to contain about as much matter again as +that of Mr Walter--so this famous Voyage was composed in the person of +the Centurion's chaplain, by Mr Robins in his own style and manner. Of +this Mr Robins' friends, Mr Glover and Mr Ockenden, are witnesses as +well as myself, we having compared the printed book with Mr +Walter's manuscript. And this was at that time no secret, for in +the counterpart of an indenture, now lying before me, made between +Benjamin Robins, Esq. and John and Paul Knapton, booksellers, I find +that those booksellers purchased the copy of this book from Mr Robins, +as the sole proprietor, with no other mention of Mr Walter than a +proviso in relation to the subscriptions he had taken." Dr Wilson +evidently writes under some conviction that his assertions are liable +to scrutiny, and that the matter of his remarks is debatable; hence +his allegation that other _friends_ of Mr Robins are witnesses as well +as himself, and his insinuation that what he testifies was no secret. +But it is obvious, that, were his own assertions of the fact at all +questionable, he would be equally obnoxious to discredit in assigning +these other witnesses; for clearly, the man who could falsify in the +one case, would be capable of doing so in the other. This may be said +without any impeachment whatever of either Dr Wilson or the other +friends of Mr Robins. It is merely a remark on the mode of proof which +the Dr has adopted. As to the insinuation again, of the fact being no +secret, all that it may be requisite to say is simply this, that the +circumstance of the existence of the counterpart of such an indenture +as is mentioned, is a very indifferent proof of publicity; and that +even were it otherwise, were it "confirmation strong," still it might +be readily conceived that Mr Robins should be the sole proprietor of +the work, and yet in no degree the author of it. One may believe, at +least, that Mr Robins, having aided in drawing up the materials for +publication, and having furnished some pieces for it, was entrusted +with the disposal of it to the booksellers; Mr Walter himself, for +value received; or other considerations, abandoning all further +concern. Some importance has been attached to a letter from Lord Anson +to Mr Robins, as preserved by Dr Wilson, and published, as he says, by +his lordship's permission, or, to use his own expression, "Printed +not without the noble lord's consent; who," says the doctor, "being +requested to permit that this testimony might be exhibited to the +world of his lordship's esteem for Mr Robins, replied, in the politest +manner, That every thing in his power was due to the memory of one who +had deserved so well of the public." That Mr Robins deserved well of +the public was unquestionable, though he had not written a line of +the Narrative. He had published several works on subjects of general +utility; and, besides his private instructions in beneficial science, +he had been employed officially in the service of his country: In +short, he needed not any thing of the reputation of the author of +the Narrative, whoever he was, to extend his own. But does the letter +referred to, or the quotation now given respecting Lord Anson's +permission to publish it, in any degree determine the question, or any +thing connected with it? The Editor has a different opinion of it; he +thinks it quite irrelevant--that it does not yield the least shadow +of proof, that Mr Robins had any thing to do with the volume of the +Narrative, already given to the public. All that can be legitimately +inferred from it amounts to this, that Lord Anson, entertaining a +high opinion of Mr Robins, and being much pleased with his works, was +desirous that he should publish a second volume of the Voyage, and +apprehended that he had abandoned the intention of doing so. Of the +fact of Mr Robins being the author of what had appeared, or even of +the existence of materials for a second volume in a state fit for the +public notice--of any thing, in short, but an intention on the part of +Mr Robins to this effect, the letter in question says not a word. Let +the reader judge for himself. The letter is as follows:-- + + +"DEAR SIR, + +"When I last saw you in town, I forgot to ask you, whether you +intended to publish the second volume of my "Voyage" before you leave +us; which, I confess, I am very sorry for. If you should have laid +aside all thoughts of favouring the world with more of your works, it +will be much disappointed, and no one in it more than your very much +obliged and humble servant, + +_Bath, 22d October, 1749._ + +"ANSON." + +"If you can tell the time of your departure, let me know it." + + +This letter is also preserved by Mr Nichols in his Literary Anecdotes +of the 18th Century, vol. ii. page 206, where the Narrative is +explicitly ascribed to Mr Robins, but not on, any particular evidence. +The statement indeed that is there given seems founded on Dr Wilson's +account of Mr Robins, without any other source of information having +been consulted. The Encyclopaedia Britannica is somewhat more candid, +stating merely what was generally thought as to the Narrative +being the work of Mr Robins, and at the same time pointing, though +indirectly, to the existence of information opposed to that opinion. +"In 1748," says the article Robins, 3d edition, "appeared Lord Anson's +Voyage round the World, which, though Mr Walter's name is in the +title, has been generally thought to be the work of Mr Robins."--"The +5th edition, printed at London, in 1749, was revised and corrected +by Mr Robins himself. It appears, however, from the corrigenda and +addenda to the 1st volume of the Biographia Britannica, printed in +the beginning of the 4th volume of that work, that Mr Robins was only +consulted with respect to the disposition of the drawings, and that +he had left England before the book was printed. Whether this be the +fact, as it is asserted to be by the widow of Mr Walter, it is not for +us to determine." The remark now made seems somewhat ambiguous, and +may refer to either the 5th edition only, or to the work in general. +In referring, however, to the Biog. Brit. as above, the ambiguity is +removed, and a testimony is discovered in opposition to the statement +of Dr Wilson, which the reader cannot fail to consider of very high +import, and as bearing strongly against the claims of Mr Robins. The +writers of the Biog. had spoken, in their account of Lord Anson, of +the history of his voyage having been written by Mr Robins. This they +did on common though uncontradicted report, arising in all probability +from the positive assertions of Dr Wilson, to which, it is certainly +very singular, neither Mr Walter nor any of his friends chose to +object. With the most praise-worthy liberality and candour, however, +these gentlemen, in the corrigenda; &c. referred to, insert the +following notice:--"Thus has the matter hitherto stood. But so late +as the present year (1789) and a few days previously to the writing of +this note, a letter upon the subject has been put into our hands by +Mr John. Walter, bookseller at Charing Cross. It is addressed to that +gentleman by Mrs Walter, the widow of the publisher of that Voyage, +and is as follows: + + +"SIR, + +"I am informed that the Biographia Britannica insinuates that Mr +Robins, and not Mr Walter, was the writer of Lord Anson's Voyage round +the World. I shall therefore take it as a favour, if you will put me +in the way of correcting so great a mistake. During the time of Mr +Walter's writing that Voyage, he visited me almost daily previous to +our marriage, and I have frequently heard him say how closely be had +been engaged in writing for some hours to prepare for his constant +attendance upon Lord Anson at six every morning for his approbation, +as his lordship overlooked every sheet that was written. At some +of those meetings Mr Robins assisted, as he was consulted in the +disposition of the drawings; and I also know that Mr Robins left +England (for he was sent to Bergen-op-Zoom,)[2] some months before the +publication of that book; and I have frequently seen Mr Walter correct +the proof sheets for the printer. You may perhaps wonder that Mr +Walter never took any steps to contradict the assertion; but that +wonder will cease when I tell you that for four years before his +death (which was in 1785) he laboured under very severe and painful +illnesses, and therefore never heard any thing but newspaper squibs, +which he looked upon with contempt. But as it now appears to be +published in a work that will be handed down to-posterity, that Mr +Walter was not the real author, I think it a duty incumbent upon me +to endeavour to clear his memory from any imputation of duplicity. +Nor can it be supposed that any man would write a book for another +to share the greatest part of the advantages. These and many other +reasons make me to apply to you, as I should suppose that, as a +relation to the deceased, you would be anxious for his fame, as well +as, + +Sir, + +Your most humble servant, + +JANE WALTER." + +_June 16th, 1789._ + +[Footnote 2: "Mr Robins," says Dr Wilson, "was invited over to assist +in the defence of Bergen-op-Zoom, then invested by the French; and +he did accordingly set out for that place; but it was entered by the +besiegers September 16, 1747, just after his arrival in the Dutch +army." This corresponds well with Mrs Walter's statement, and must +have its weight in the question.--E.] + +"We shall make no other comment on this letter than to observe, +that it is highly worthy of attention. If it shall give such full +satisfaction to our readers as to convince them that Mr Walter was the +writer of the voyage in its present form, we shall rejoice in having +had an opportunity of doing justice to an injured character." + +Such is all the information the Editor has been able to procure +on this subject; and he regrets that it is not adequate to what is +desirable for the determining it. He might seem invidiously disposed +were he positively to decide in the claims, the respective evidences +of which, though not logically contradictory, are so much opposed to +each other; but he thinks he can hazard no unfavourable imputation, if +he should merely state his opinion drawn from the consideration of the +testimonies, and the comparison of the style of part of the Narrative, +with that of the works which appeared in Mr Robins' name. He thinks, +then, in few words, that the Narrative is really the production of +Mr Walter, under whose name it appeared, but that it was materially +increased in size, if not in real value, by the contributions of +Mr Robins; and that the species of those contributions may be +condescended on, which of course goes far to determine their amount.] + + +END OF VOLUME ELEVENTH. + +Edinburgh: Printed by James Ballantyne & Co. + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A General History and Collection of +Voyages and Travels, Volume 11, by Robert Kerr + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK VOYAGES AND TRAVELS, VOLUME 11 *** + +***** This file should be named 15376.txt or 15376.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/1/5/3/7/15376/ + +Produced by Robert Connal, Alison Hadwin and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team. 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