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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Notes of a Twenty-Five Years' Service in
+the Hudson's Bay Territory, by John M'lean
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Notes of a Twenty-Five Years' Service in the Hudson's Bay Territory
+       Volume I.
+
+Author: John M'lean
+
+Release Date: March 12, 2005 [EBook #15342]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SERVICE IN THE HUDSON'S BAY TERRITORY ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions,
+Wallace McLean and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+NOTES
+
+OF A
+
+TWENTY-FIVE YEARS' SERVICE
+
+IN THE
+
+HUDSON'S BAY TERRITORY.
+
+BY JOHN M'LEAN.
+
+
+
+
+IN TWO VOLUMES.
+
+VOL. I.
+
+
+
+
+LONDON:
+
+RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET,
+
+Publisher in Ordinary to her Majesty.
+
+1849.
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE.
+
+
+The writer's main object in first committing to writing the following
+Notes was to while away the many lonely and wearisome hours which are
+the lot of the Indian trader;--a wish to gratify his friends by the
+narrative of his adventures had also some share in inducing him to
+take up the pen.
+
+While he might justly plead the hacknied excuse of being urged by not
+a few of those friends to publish these Notes, in extenuation of the
+folly or presumption, or whatever else it may be termed, of obtruding
+them on the world, in these days of "making many books;" he feels that
+he can rest his vindication on higher grounds. Although several works
+of some merit have appeared in connexion with the subject, the
+Hudson's Bay territory is yet, comparatively speaking, but little
+known; no faithful representation has yet been given of the situation
+of the Company's servants--the Indian traders; the degradation and
+misery of the many Indian tribes, or rather remnants of tribes,
+scattered throughout this vast territory, is in a great measure
+unknown; erroneous statements have gone abroad in regard to the
+Company's treatment of these Indians; as also in regard to the
+government, policy, and management of the Company's affairs;--on these
+points, he conceives that his plain, unvarnished tale may throw some
+new light.
+
+Some of the details may seem trivial, and some of the incidents to be
+without much interest to the general reader; still as it was one chief
+design of the writer to draw a faithful picture of the Indian trader's
+life,--its toils, annoyances, privations, and perils, when on actual
+service, or on a trading or exploring expedition; its loneliness,
+cheerlessness, and ennui, when not on actual service; together with
+the shifts to which he is reduced in order to combat that ennui;--such
+incidents, trifling though they may appear to be, he conceives may yet
+convey to the reader a livelier idea of life in the Hudson's Bay
+Company's territories than a more ambitious or laboured description
+could have done. No one, indeed, who has passed his life amid the busy
+haunts of men, can form any just idea of the interest attached by the
+lonely trader to the most trifling events, such as the arrival of a
+stranger Indian,--the coming of a new clerk,--a scuffle among the
+Indians,--or a sudden change of weather. No one, unaccustomed to their
+"short commons," can conceive the intense, it may be said fearful,
+interest and excitement with which the issue of a fishing or hunting
+expedition is anticipated.
+
+Should his work contribute, in any degree, to awaken the sympathy of
+the Christian world in behalf of the wretched and degraded Aborigines
+of this vast territory; should it tend in any way to expose, or to
+reform the abuses in the management of the Hudson's Bay Company, or to
+render its monopoly less injurious to the natives than hitherto it has
+been; the writer's labour will have been amply compensated. Interested
+as he still is in that Company, with a considerable stake depending on
+its returns, it can scarcely be supposed that he has any intention,
+wantonly or unnecessarily, to injure its interests.
+
+  GUELPH, CANADA WEST,
+    _1st March, 1849._
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+OF
+
+THE FIRST VOLUME.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+The Hudson's Bay Company and Territories
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+I enter the Hudson's Bay Company's Service--Padre Gibert
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+On Service--Lake of Two Mountains--Opposition--Indians--Amusements at
+the Posts
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+Portage des Chats--Tactics of our Opponents--Treachery of an
+Iroquois--Fierce yet ludicrous nature of the Opposition
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+Arrival at the Chats--Installed as Bourgeois--First Trading
+Excursion--Bivouac in the Woods--Indian Barbarity
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+Trip to Fort Coulonge--Mr. Godin--Natives
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+Superseded--Feelings on the Occasion--More Opposition--Æ.
+Macdonell--Tactics--Melancholy Death of an Indian
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+Activity of our Opponents--Violent Conduct of an Indian--Narrow
+Escape--Artifice--Trip to Indian's Lodge--Stupidity of Interpreter
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+Expedition to the Bear's Den--Passage through the Swamp--Cunning of
+the Indians--A Scuffle--Its Results
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+Père Duchamp--Mr. S.'s Instructions--Unsuccessful--Trading
+Excursion--Difficulties of the Journey--Lose our way--Provisions
+fail--Reach the Post--Visit to an Algonquin Chief--His abusive
+Treatment--Success
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+Success of the Iroquois Traders--Appointed to the Charge of the
+Chats--Canadian disputes Possession--Bivouac without a Fire--Ruse to
+baffle my Opponents--Roman Catholic Bigotry
+
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+Journey to Montreal--Appointment to Lac de Sable--Advantages of this
+Post--Its Difficulties--Governor's flattering Letter--Return from
+Montreal--Lost in the Woods--Sufferings--Escape
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+Narrowly escape Drowning--Accident to Indian Guide--Am nearly Frozen
+to Death--Misunderstanding between Algonquins and Iroquois--Massacre
+at Hannah Bay
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV.
+
+Fall through the Ice--Dangerous Adventure at a Rapid--Opponents give
+in--Ordered to Lachine--Treatment on my Arrival--Manners, Habits, and
+Superstitions of the Indians--Ferocious Revenge of a supposed
+Injury--Different Methods of the Roman Catholic and Protestant
+Missionary--Indian Councils--Tradition of the Flood--Beaver
+Hunting--Language
+
+
+CHAPTER XV.
+
+Embark for the Interior--Mode of Travelling by Canoes--Little
+River--Lake Nipissing--French River--Old Station of Indian
+Robbers--Fort Mississaga--Indians--Light Canoe-Men--Sault Ste.
+Marie--Lake Superior--Canoe-men desert--Re-taken--Fort William--M.
+Thibaud--Lac la Pluie and River--Indians--White River--Narrow
+Escape--Conversation with an Indian about Baptism
+
+
+CHAPTER XVI.
+
+Continuation of the Voyage--Run short of Provisions--Dogs
+Flesh--Norway House--Indian Voyageurs--Ordered to New Caledonia--Lake
+Winnipeg--McIntosh's Island submerged--Cumberland House--Chippewayan
+and Cree Indians--Portage La Loche--Scenery--Athabasca--Healthiness of
+the Climate
+
+
+CHAPTER XVII.
+
+Arrival of Mr. F. from Caledonia--Scenery--Land-slip--Massacre at Fort
+St. John's--Rocky Mountain Portage--Rocky Mountains--Magnificent
+Scenery--McLeod's Lake--Reception of its Commander by the Indians
+
+
+CHAPTER XVIII.
+
+Arrival at New Caledonia--Beautiful Scenery--Indian Houses--Amusements
+at the Fort--Threatened Attack of Indians--Expedition against
+them--Beefsteaks--New Caledonian Fare--Mode of catching
+Salmon--Singular Death of native Interpreter--Indian Funeral
+Rites--Barbarous Treatment of Widows
+
+
+CHAPTER XIX.
+
+Indian Feast--Attempt at Dramatic Representation--Religion--Ordered to
+Fort Alexandria--Advantages of the Situation--Sent back to Fort St.
+James--Solitude--Punishment of Indian Murderer--Its Consequences--Heroic
+Adventure of Interpreter
+
+
+CHAPTER XX.
+
+Appointed to the Charge of Fort George--Murder of Mr. Yale's
+Men--Mysterious Loss of Mr. Linton and Family--Adventures of Leather
+Party--Failure of Crops--Influenza
+
+
+CHAPTER XXI.
+
+Climate of New Caledonia--Scenery--Natural
+Productions--Animals--Fishes--Natives--Their Manners and
+Customs--Duelling--Gambling--Licentiousness--Language
+
+
+
+
+NOTES
+
+OF A
+
+TWENTY-FIVE YEARS' SERVICE
+
+AT THE
+
+HUDSON'S BAY TERRITORY.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+THE HUDSON'S BAY COMPANY AND TERRITORIES.
+
+
+That part of British North America known by the name of the Hudson's
+Bay territory extends from the eastern coast in about 60° W. long. to
+the Russian boundary in 142° W.; and from the Gulf of St. Lawrence,
+along the Ottawa River and the northern shores of Lakes Huron and
+Superior, and thence to the boundary line of the United States;
+extending in latitude thence to the northern limit of America; being
+in length about 2,600 miles, and in breadth about 1,400 miles. This
+extensive space may be divided into three portions, each differing
+most materially in aspect and surface. The first and most extensive is
+that which is on the east, from the Labrador coast, round Hudson's
+Bay, northward to the Arctic region, and westward to the Rocky
+Mountains. This is entirely a wooded district, affording that
+plentiful supply of timber which forms so large a branch of the
+Canadian export trade. These interminable forests are principally
+composed of pines of large size, but which towards the northern
+boundary are of a very stinted growth. Another portion is the prairie
+country, reaching from Canada westward to the Rocky Mountains, and
+intersected by the boundary line of the United States. In general, the
+soil is rich alluvial, which being covered with luxuriant herbage,
+affords pasturage for the vast herds of wild buffaloes which roam over
+these extensive plains. The western part is that which lies between
+the Rocky Mountains and the Pacific Ocean, including the Oregon
+territory, which was likely to have led to a serious misunderstanding
+between Great Britain and the United States.
+
+These extensive portions are divided by the Hudson's Bay Company into
+four departments, and these departments are again subdivided into
+districts. At the head of each department and district a chief factor
+or chief trader generally presides, to whom all the officers within
+their respective jurisdictions are amenable. Those in charge of posts,
+whatever may be their rank, are subject to the authority of the person
+at the head of the district; and that person receives his instructions
+from the superintendent of the department. The whole affairs of the
+country at large are regulated by the Governor and Council, and their
+decisions again are referred, for final adjustment, to the Governor
+and Committee in London.
+
+The Montreal department comprehends all the districts and posts along
+the Gulf and River St. Lawrence; also the different posts along the
+banks of the Ottawa and the interior country. The depôt of the
+department is at Lachine, where all the returns are collected, and the
+outfits prepared.
+
+The southern department has its depôt at Moose Factory, in James's
+Bay; it includes the districts of Albany, Rupert's House,
+Temiscamingue, Lake Huron, and Lake Superior, together with several
+isolated posts along the shores of the Bay.
+
+The northern department is very extensive, having for its southern
+boundary the line which divides the British from the American
+territories, sweeping east and west from Lac La Pluie, in 95° W. long,
+and 49° N. lat. to the Rocky Mountains in 115° W. long.; then, with
+the Rocky Mountains for its western boundary, it extends northward to
+the Arctic Sea. The whole of this vast country is divided into the
+following districts: Norway House, Rainy Lake, Red River,
+Saskatchewan, English River, Athabasca, and McKenzie's River. The
+depôt of this department is York Factory, in Hudson's Bay, and is
+considered the grand emporium; here the grand Council is held, which
+is formed of the Governor and such chief factors and chief traders as
+may be present. The duty of the latter is to sit and listen to
+whatever measures the Governor may have determined on, and give their
+assent thereto, no debating or vetoing being ever thought of; the
+Governor being absolute, his measures therefore more require obedience
+than assent. Chief traders are also permitted to sit in council as
+auditors, but have not the privilege of being considered members.
+
+The Columbia department is bounded on the east by the Rocky Mountains,
+and on the west by the Pacific Ocean. An ideal line divides it on the
+south from the province of California, in lat. 41° 30'; and it joins
+the Russian boundary in lat. 55°. This, although a very extensive
+department, does not consist of many districts; New Caledonia is the
+principal, situated among the Rocky Mountains, and having several of
+its posts established along the banks of the Fraser River, which
+disembogues itself into the Gulf of Georgia in nearly 49° lat. and
+122° W. long. The next is Colville, on the Columbia River, along with
+some isolated posts near the confluence of the same river. The
+_forts_, or trading posts, along the north-west coast, have each their
+respective commander. The shipping business is conducted by a person
+appointed for that purpose, who is styled, _par excellence_, the head
+of the "Naval department." The Company have a steamboat and several
+sailing vessels, for the purpose chiefly of trading with the natives
+along the coast. The primary object, however, is not so much the
+trade, as to keep brother Jonathan in check, (whose propensity for
+encroaching has of late been "pretty much" exhibited,) and to deter
+him from forming any establishments on the coasts; there being a just
+apprehension that if once a footing were obtained on the coast, an
+equal eagerness might be manifested for extending their locations into
+the interior. Strong parties of hunters are also constantly employed
+along the southern frontier for the purpose of destroying the
+fur-bearing animals in that quarter; the end in view being to secure
+the interior from the encroachments of foreign interlopers. The depôt
+of this department is at Fort Vancouver, on the Columbia River.
+
+The Hudson's Bay Company, as it at present exists, was incorporated in
+the winter of 1820-21, a coalition having been then formed with the
+North-West Company. Upon this taking place, an Act of Parliament was
+obtained which gave them not only the possession of the territory they
+had originally held by virtue of their royal charter, but also
+investing them with the same rights and privileges conferred by that
+charter in and over all the territories that had been settled by the
+North-West Company for a term of twenty-one years.
+
+The Governor, Deputy-Governor, and managing Committee, are, properly
+speaking, the only capitalists. The stock is divided into one hundred
+shares; sixty of which their Honours retain for themselves; and the
+remaining forty are divided among the chief traders and chief factors,
+who manage the affairs in the Indian country. A chief factor holds two
+of these shares, and a chief trader one; of which they retain the full
+interest for one year after they retire, and half interest for the six
+following years. These cannot be said to be stock-holders, for they
+are not admitted to any share in the executive management; but
+according to the present system they are termed Commissioned Officers,
+and receive merely the proceeds of the share allotted to them. They
+enjoy, however, one very superior advantage,--they are not subjected
+to bear their share in any losses which the Company may sustain. It is
+generally reckoned that the value of one share is on an average about
+350l. sterling a-year. By the resignation of two chief traders, one
+share is at the Company's disposal the year after, which is then
+bestowed on a clerk. When two chief factors retire, a chief trader is
+promoted in like manner. Promotion also take place when the shares of
+the retired partners fall in.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+I ENTER THE HUDSON'S BAY COMPANY'S SERVICE--PADRE GIBERT.
+
+
+I entered the service of the Company in the winter of 1820-21, and
+after passing my contract at Montreal in the month of January, I took
+up my residence for the remainder of the season with a French priest,
+in the parish of Petit le Maska, for the purpose of studying the
+French language. The Padre was a most affable, liberal-minded man, a
+warm friend of England and Englishmen, and a staunch adherent to their
+government, which he considered as the most perfect under the sun. The
+fact is, that the old gentleman, along with many others of his
+countrymen who had escaped from the horrors of the French Revolution,
+had found an asylum in our land of freedom, which they could find
+nowhere else; and the personal advantages that had accrued to him from
+that circumstance, naturally induced a favourable disposition towards
+his benefactors, their laws, and their institutions. Though the Padre
+was extremely liberal in his political opinions, his management of his
+worldly affairs bore the stamp of the most sordid parsimony. He
+worshipped the golden calf, and his adoration of the image was
+manifest in everything around him. He wore a cassock of cloth which
+had in former times been of a black colour, but was now of a dusky
+grey, the woollen material being so completely incorporated with dust
+as to give it that colour. His table was furnished with such fare as
+his farm produced, with the addition, on particular occasions, of a
+bottle of _black strap_. A charming nymph, of some fifty years of age
+or so, had the management of the household, and discharged all her
+duties with strict decorum and care. I have the beauties of her person
+in my mind's eye to this day. She was hump-backed, short-necked, and
+one-eyed, and squinted bewitchingly with the remaining one: she had a
+short leg and a long one, a high shoulder and a low. In short, the
+dear creature seemed to be formed, or rather deformed, by the hand of
+nature on purpose to fill the situation of housekeeper for a
+priest,--so that whatever might be his age, no scandal could possibly
+attach itself to him from such a housekeeper. The man-servant was
+directly the counterpart of the charming Marguerite; he also was far
+advanced in the vale of years, and was of a most irascible temper. To
+stir up Joseph to the _grinning point_ was a very easy matter; and his
+frantic gesticulations, when thus goaded to wrath by our teasing
+pleasantries, (there were two other young gentlemen beside myself,)
+were of the most extraordinary description, and afforded infinite
+amusement. We never failed to amuse ourselves at Joseph's expense,
+when the Padre's absence permitted our doing so with impunity,--especially
+as a small present of tobacco, which was always kept at hand for such
+occasions, soon made us friends again. But it sometimes happened that
+such jokes were carried too far, so as to render the offering of
+_incense_ quite unacceptable, when the touch of _metal_ could alone
+produce the desired effect.
+
+I remained with Father Gibert until spring, and shall take leave of
+him by relating an anecdote or two illustrative of his loyalty and
+benevolence. Some time during Madison's unprovoked war with Great
+Britain, an alarm came from the upper part of the parish of which
+Father Gibert was _curé_, that a party of Americans had been seen
+marching down the country. The _Capitaine_ of militia, who was the
+_curé's_ next door neighbour, was immediately sent for, and by their
+joint influence and authority a considerable number of _habitans_ were
+soon assembled under arms, such as they were. The Father then
+shouldering his musket, and placing himself at the head of his
+parishioners, led them into his garden, which was enclosed by a picket
+fence, and bordered on the highway. Here the loyal band took their
+stand under cover of the fence, waiting to give Jonathan a warm
+reception the moment he came within reach. The supposed Americans
+proved to be a small detachment of British troops, and thus the affair
+ended.
+
+On another occasion during the same period the Padre's loyalty and
+good humour were manifested, though in a different manner. While
+amusing himself in the garden one day, he overheard two Irish soldiers
+engaged in conversation to this effect:--
+
+"You know that the ould boy asks every body afore he gives any
+praties, if they belong to St. Patrick; well, is it a hard matter to
+tell him we do, agrah?"
+
+"Sure you'd be telling a lie, Paddy!"
+
+"Never mind that," said Paddy, "I'll spake."
+
+The old gentleman immediately returned to the house, and entering by a
+back door, was snugly seated in his arm-chair, book in hand, when the
+two Hibernians were admitted.
+
+"Well, my boys, what is your business with me?"
+
+"We would be wanting a few praties, if your Riverence could spare
+them."
+
+"Aha! you are from Ireland, I perceive. Irishmen very fond of
+potatoes! Well, my boys, I have a few remaining, and you shall have
+some if you belong to St. Patrick."
+
+"Faith, and it is all as your honour says; we are Irishmen, and we
+belong to St. Patrick."
+
+The old gentleman ordered Joseph to supply them with the "blessed
+root," without any further parley. Then addressing the speaker in a
+voice of assumed choler, exclaimed:--
+
+"You are a great raskail! does your religion teach you to tell lies?
+You are Protestant both of you. However, if you do not belong to St.
+Patrick, you belong to the King of England, and I give my potatoes for
+his sake. But you must never try to impose upon an old priest again,
+or you may not come so well off."
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+ON SERVICE--LAKE OF TWO MOUNTAINS--OPPOSITION--INDIANS--AMUSEMENTS AT
+THE POSTS.
+
+
+I arrived at Montreal about the beginning of May, and soon learnt that
+I was appointed to the post at Lake of Two Mountains. The Montreal
+department was headed at that time by Mr. Thane, a man of rather
+eccentric character, but possessed of a heart that glowed with the
+best feelings of humanity. I was allowed to amuse myself a few days in
+town, having directions however to call at the office every day, in
+case my services should be required. The period of departure at length
+arrived. I was one evening accosted by Mr. Thane in these terms:--"I
+say, youngster, you have been trifling away your time long enough
+here; you must hold yourself ready to embark for your destination
+to-morrow morning at five o'clock precisely. If you delay one moment,
+you shall have cause to remember it." Such positive injunctions were
+not disregarded by me. I was of course ready at the time appointed,
+and after all the hurry, had the honour of breakfasting with my
+commander before departing; but the woful and disheartening accounts
+of the hardships and privations I was to suffer in the country to
+which I was to proceed, fairly spoiled my appetite. I was told that my
+only lodging was to be a tent, my only food Indian corn, _when I could
+get it_; and many other _comforts_ were enumerated with the view of
+producing a certain effect, which my countenance no doubt betrayed,
+whilst he chuckled with the greatest delight at the success of his
+jokes. I took leave, and found myself that evening at the Lake of Two
+Mountains. On my arrival, a large building was pointed out to me as
+the Company's establishment, to which I soon found admittance, and
+was, to my great surprise, ushered into a large well furnished
+apartment. Tea had just been served, with a variety of substantial
+accompaniments, to which I felt heartily disposed to do ample justice,
+after my day's abstinence. This was very different entertainment from
+what I had been led to expect in the morning; would it had been my lot
+to be always so agreeably deceived!
+
+The village of the Lake of Two Mountains is inhabited by two distinct
+tribes of the aborigines--viz. the Iroquois and the Algonquins; the
+latter are a tribe of the Sauteux nation, or Ojibbeway, and live
+principally by the chase. The former cultivate the soil, and engage as
+voyageurs, or in any other capacity that may yield them the means of
+subsistence. They are a very hardy industrious race; but neither the
+habits of civilized life, nor the influence of the Christian religion,
+appear to have mitigated, in any material degree, the ferocity that
+characterized their pagan ancestors. Although they do not pay great
+deference to the laws of God, they are sufficiently aware of the
+consequences of violating the laws of man, and comport themselves
+accordingly.
+
+The Catholic seminary and church, along with the gardens of the
+establishment, almost divide the village into two equal parts; yet
+this close proximity does not appear to encourage any friendly
+intercourse between the two tribes. They in fact seldom pass their
+respective limits, and, with few exceptions, cannot converse together,
+the language of the one being unintelligible to the other.
+
+The Company established a post here in the spring of 1819, and when I
+arrived it was in charge of Mr. Fisher, then a senior clerk. He had
+two other clerks under him, besides myself, a like number of
+_attachés_, two interpreters, two servants, and a horse to ride upon.
+With such an establishment to rule over, need it be matter of surprise
+that our _bourgeois_ was in his own estimation a magnate of the first
+order? _N'importe_,--whatever might be his vanity, he possessed those
+qualities which constitute a first-rate Indian trader, and he required
+them to fill successfully his present situation. A number of petty
+traders were settled in the village, who, whenever the Company entered
+the lists against them, laid aside the feuds that subsisted among
+themselves, and joined to oppose their united efforts against the
+powerful rival that threatened to overwhelm them all. The spring fur
+campaign was about to open when I made my _début_ at the post. The
+natives being daily expected from the interior, all parties watched
+their arrival night and day. This was not a very harassing duty to us,
+as we relieved each other; but the situation of our superior was
+exceedingly irksome and annoying. The moment an Indian canoe appeared
+(the Indians always arrived at night), we were ordered to apprize him
+of it; having done so, he was immediately at the landing-place, our
+opponents being also there, attending to their own interests. Some of
+the natives were supplied by the Company, others by the petty traders;
+and according as it happened to be the customers of either that
+arrived, the servants assisted in unloading the canoes, conveying the
+baggage to their houses, and kindling a fire. Provisions were
+furnished in abundance by both parties. While these preliminary
+operations were being performed by the servants, the traders
+surrounded the principal object of their solicitude--the hunter; first
+one, then another, taking him aside to persuade him of the superior
+claims each had on his love and gratitude. After being pestered in
+this manner for some time, he, (the hunter,) eventually allowed
+himself to be led away to the residence of one of the parties, where
+he was treated to the best their establishment afforded; the natives,
+however, retaining their furs, and visiting from house to house, until
+satiated with the good cheer the traders had to give them, when they
+at length gave them up, but not always to the party to whom they were
+most indebted. They are generally great rogues; the sound of the
+dollars, which the Company possessed in abundance, often brought the
+furs that were due to the petty trader to the Company's stores; while
+some of our customers were induced by the same argument to carry their
+furs to our rivals.
+
+For a period of six weeks or so, the natives continued to arrive;
+sometimes in brigades, sometimes in single canoes; during the whole of
+this period we were occupied in the manner now described, day and
+night. So great was the pressure of business, that we had scarcely
+time to partake of the necessary refreshment. When they had at length
+all arrived, we enjoyed our night's rest, if indeed our continually
+disturbed slumbers could be called rest:--what with the howling of two
+or three hundred dogs, the tinkling of bells with which the horses the
+Indians rode were ornamented, the bawling of the squaws when beaten by
+their drunken husbands, and the yelling of the savages themselves when
+in that beastly state, sleep was impossible,--the infernal sounds that
+continually rent the air, produced such a _symphony_ as could be heard
+nowhere else out of Pandemonium. No liquors were sold to the natives
+at the village, but they procured as much as they required from the
+opposite side of the lake. Some wretches of Canadians were always
+ready, for a trifling consideration, to purchase it for them; thus the
+law prohibiting the sale of liquor to the Indians was evaded. After
+wallowing in intemperance for some time, they ultimately submitted to
+the authority of the priests, confessed their sins, received
+absolution, and became _good Christians_ for the remainder of the
+season. If any indulged in the favourite vice--a few always did--they
+were confined to their quarters by their families. After attending
+mass on Sundays, they amused themselves playing at ball, or running
+foot races; and it was only on such occasions they were seen to
+associate with their neighbours the Iroquois. They took opposite sides
+in the games; small stakes were allowed, merely to create an interest
+in the issue of the contest. The chiefs of both tribes sat smoking
+their pipes together, viewing the sports in silent gravity, and acting
+as umpires in all cases of doubt between the parties. They, in fact,
+led a glorious life during the three months they remained at the
+village; that period was to them a continued carnival. The best fare
+the country afforded--the best attire that money could procure--all
+that sensuality, all that vanity could desire--their means permitted
+them to enjoy. Their lands not having been hunted on during the war,
+the beaver multiplied at an extraordinary rate, and now swarmed in
+every direction. Every individual belonging to the tribe might then
+have acquired an independent fortune. They arrived at the village,
+their canoes laden with furs; but the characteristic improvidence of
+their race blinded them to future consequences. Such was their
+wasteful extravagance, that the money obtained by the sale of their
+furs was dissipated ere half the summer season was over. The traders
+supplied them afterwards with all requisites at a _moderate_ per
+centage; and when they embarked in autumn for their hunting grounds,
+they found themselves deeply involved in debt, a few only excepted.
+
+In the course of this summer, some of our opponents foreseeing the
+probable issue of the contest they were engaged in, proposed terms of
+capitulation, which were in most instances readily assented to by the
+Company; the inventories and outstanding debts were assumed at a
+certain valuation. They retired from the field, some with annuities
+for a stipulated period, while to others a round sum of money was
+granted; in either case the party bound himself, under certain
+penalties, not to interfere in the trade for a stated period of time.
+
+In this manner the Company got rid of all petty opponents, with the
+exception of two who continued the unequal contest. By the latter end
+of August the natives had all started for the interior, leaving behind
+only a few decrepit old men and women. The scene was now completely
+changed; a death-like stillness prevailed where but a few days before
+all was activity, bustle and animation. Two of my brother scribes were
+ordered to the interior; one[1] to the distant Lake Nipissingue, the
+other to the Chats. Mr. Fisher set off to enjoy himself in Montreal,
+Mr. Francher, the accountant, being appointed _locum-tenens_ during
+his absence. Another young Scot and myself, together with two or three
+non-descripts, formed the winter establishment. Having just quitted
+the scenes of civilized life, I found my present solitude sufficiently
+irksome; the natural buoyancy of youthful spirits, however, with the
+amusements we got up amongst us, conspired to banish all gloomy
+thoughts from my mind in a very short time. We--my friend Mac and
+myself--soon became very intimate with two or three French families
+who resided in the village, who were, though in an humble station,
+kind and courteous, and who, moreover, danced, fiddled and played
+whist.
+
+    [1] This gentleman's name was Cockburn;--he met his end a few
+    years afterwards in a very melancholy manner, while on his way
+    to Montreal (having retired from the service). He rolled over
+    the canoe on a dark night, and disappeared for ever!
+
+There was another family of a different status from the others, that
+of Capt. Ducharme, the king's interpreter, a kind-hearted, hospitable
+man, who frequently invited us to his house, where we enjoyed the
+charms of polished society and good cheer. The captain's residence was
+in the Iroquois division of the village; this circumstance led us to
+form another acquaintance that for some time afforded us some
+amusement, _en passant_. We discovered that a very ugly old widow, who
+resided in that quarter, had two very pretty young daughters, to whom
+we discoursed in Gaelic; they answered in Iroquois; and in a short
+time the best _understanding_ imaginable was established between us,
+(Mac and myself, be it always understood.) No harm came of it, though;
+I vow there did not; the priests, it seems, thought otherwise. Our
+acquaintance with the girls having come to their knowledge, we were
+one day honoured with a visit from the Iroquois padre; the severe
+gravity of whose countenance convinced us at a glance of the nature of
+his mission. I must do him the justice to say, however, that his
+address to us was mild and admonitory, rather than severe or
+reproachful. I resolved from that moment to speak no more Gaelic to
+the Iroquois maidens; Mac continued his visits.
+
+We always amused ourselves in the evenings with our French
+_confrères_, (whom I have mentioned as "nondescripts," from the
+circumstance of their being under no regular engagement with the
+Company,) playing cards or fiddling and dancing. We were on one
+occasion engaged in the latter amusement _en pleine midi_--our
+_Deputy_ Bourgeois being one of the party, and all of us in the
+highest possible glee, when lo! in the midst of our hilarity, the hall
+door flew open and the _great man_ stood sternly before us. The
+hand-writing on the wall could scarcely have produced a more startling
+effect on the convivial party of old, than did this unexpected
+apparition upon us. We listened to the reprimand which followed in all
+due humility, none more crest-fallen than our worthy Deputy. Mr.
+Fisher then opened his portmanteau and drew forth a letter, which he
+presented to my friend Mac, exclaiming in a voice of thunder, "Read
+that, gentlemen, and hear what Mr. Thane thinks of your conduct." We
+read and trembled; Mac's defiance of the authority of the priests
+offended them mortally; a formal complaint was consequently preferred
+against the innocent and the guilty, (although there was no guilt in
+fact, unless _speaking Gaelic_ to the wood-nymphs could be so
+construed,) and drew upon us the censures this dreadful missive
+conveyed. The magnate remained a few days, and on his departure for
+town, we resumed our usual pastimes, but selected a different _path_
+to Captain Ducharme's. The Fathers had requested, when this
+establishment was first formed, that some of the Company's officers
+should attend church on Sundays for the purpose of showing a good
+example to the natives. I did so, on my part, very regularly until
+Christmas Eve, when having witnessed the ceremonies of the midnight
+mass, I determined on remaining at home in future. I shuddered with
+horror at the idolatrous rites, as they appeared to me, which were
+enacted on that occasion. The ceremonies commenced with the
+celebration of mass; then followed the introduction of the "Infant
+Jesus," borne by four of the choristers, attired in surplices of white
+linen. The image being placed by them on a sofa in front of the altar,
+the superior of the seminary made his début, retiring to the railing
+that surrounds the altar, when he knelt, and bending low his head
+apparently in devout adoration, he arose, then advanced two steps
+towards the altar and knelt again; he knelt the third time close to
+the side of the image, which he devoutly embraced, then withdrew: the
+younger priests performed the same ceremonies; and after them every
+one of their congregation: yet these people protest that their
+religion has no connexion with idolatry, and that the representations
+of Protestants regarding it are false and calumnious. If we credit
+them, however, we must belie the evidence of our own senses; but the
+fact is, there are not a few Roman Catholics who speak with very
+little _respect_ themselves of some of these mummeries.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+PORTAGE DES CHATS--TACTICS OF OUR OPPONENTS--TREACHERY OF AN
+IROQUOIS--FIERCE, YET LUDICROUS NATURE OF THE OPPOSITION.
+
+
+MR. Fisher returned from town in the month of March; he had learnt
+that our opponents intended to shift the scene of operations to the
+Chats, (where the greater number of the Indians pass on their way
+going to or returning from their hunting grounds,) and were making
+preparations of a very extensive nature for the spring competition.
+The Company were not tardy in adopting such measures as were deemed
+the most efficient to meet them on their own terms. We understood that
+they had hired two _bullies_ for the purpose of deciding the matter
+_par voie de fait_. Mr. Fisher hired two of the same description, who
+were supposed to be more than a match for the opposition party. On the
+28th of April, 1822, our opponents set off in two large canoes, manned
+by eight men in each; we followed in three canoes with twenty-four
+men, under the command of three leaders--namely, Captain Ducharme, who
+had volunteered on the occasion, Mr. Lyons, a retired trader, and
+myself. Nothing occurred worthy of description on our passage to the
+Chats.
+
+The Ottawa is at this point interrupted by a ledge of rock, which
+extends across its whole breadth. In forcing a passage for itself
+through this barrier, it is divided into several channels, which form
+as many beautiful cascades as they fall into the extensive basin that
+receives them below. On one of the islands thus formed, the natives
+make a portage. Here, then, we took our station close to a cascade:
+our opponents commenced building a hut on one side of the path, we on
+the other. While this operation was in progress, basilisk looks
+denoted the strength of feeling that pervaded the breasts of either
+party, but not a word was exchanged between us. Our hut was first
+completed, when our champion clambered aloft, and crowed defiance;
+three times he crowed (aloud), but no responding voice was heard from
+the opposite camp. This act was altogether voluntary on the part of
+our man, but it did not displease us, as the result convinced us that
+we stood on safe ground, should any violence be attempted. Our
+opponents were enraged at the want of spirit evinced by their men, and
+determined on being revenged upon _us_ in a manner that showed the
+virulence of their animosity. A number of lumber men were making up
+their rafts within a short distance of us at the time, who were for
+the most part natives of the Emerald Isle. Paddy's "knocking down for
+love" is proverbial. Our opponents immediately sent them word that the
+Hudson's Bay Company had brought up a _bully_ from Montreal who defied
+"the whole of the Grand River." "By my faith, does he thin," said Pat;
+"let us have a look at him, any how."
+
+On the succeeding evening (after the occurrence of the circumstance
+above related) we were surprised to see the number of canoes that
+arrived at the portage from all directions. The crew of each canoe as
+they landed went direct to our opponents, where they appeared to be
+liberally supplied with spirits. Their object was sufficiently
+evident, as the potent agent they had employed, in a short time,
+produced the desired effect. Oaths and execrations were heard amid
+crowing and yelling. Our Canadians all took to their heels, except our
+noble game-cock and two others; and now the drama opened. A
+respectable good looking fellow stept out from the crowd, accompanied
+by another man, a Canadian, and advancing to our champion, asked him
+"if he would not sell his feathers" (his hat being decorated with
+them). It is unnecessary to state the reply. An altercation ensued,
+and blows would undoubtedly have succeeded, had I not then interfered.
+I invited the stranger to my tent, and having opened my _garde de
+vin_, produced some of the good things it contained. A little
+conversation with my guest, proved him to be a shrewd sensible man;
+and when I explained the nature of our dispute with our rivals, he
+comprehended in an instant the object they had in view in circulating
+the reports which induced him and others to assemble at the portage.
+The consanguinity of the sons of Erin and Caledonia was next touched
+upon, and the point settled to our mutual satisfaction; in short, my
+brother Celt and I parted as good friends as half-an-hour's
+acquaintance and a bottle of wine could make us. At the conclusion of
+our interview he departed, and meeting our champion, cordially shook
+him by the hand; then addressing his companions, remarked, "This, my
+lads, is a quarrel between the traders, in which we have no right to
+interfere at all; for my own part, I am very much obliged to the
+jintlemin on both sides o' the road, for traiting me so jintaily; but
+Jack Hall shall not be made a tool of by anybody whatsumdever."
+
+Jack Hall embarked with his crew, and was soon afterwards followed by
+the others. Both parties were thus again in their previous positions,
+and a little tact saved us from the fatal consequences that might have
+ensued, had their villainous design proved successful. The daring
+insult was keenly felt by us all, and accordingly one of our trio
+despatched a message to the only individual of the opposite party who
+had any pretension to the title of gentleman, soliciting the pleasure
+of his company to take the air next morning. The invitation was
+accepted. Our party kept the appointment, and remained for two hours
+on the ground, awaiting the arrival of their _friends_; but the
+friends allowed them the sole enjoyment of the morning air.
+
+A few days afterwards the natives began to make their appearance, and
+scenes of a revolting nature were of frequent occurrence. Rum and
+brandy flowed in streams, and dollars were scattered about as if they
+had been of no greater value than pebbles on the beach. The expenses
+incurred by both parties were very great; but while this lavish
+expenditure seriously affected the resources of the petty traders, the
+coffers of the Company were too liberally filled to be sensibly
+diminished by such outlay. Nevertheless, the natives would not dispose
+of their furs until they reached the village.
+
+We remained at the portage until the 7th of June, when the natives
+having all passed, we embarked, and arrived at the lake on the 10th,
+where we were shocked to learn that our Bourgeois[1] had had a very
+narrow escape from the treachery of an Iroquois during our absence,
+the particulars of which were thus related to us. Mr. Fisher had
+advanced a sum to this scoundrel two years before, and seeing him pass
+his door the ensuing spring after the debt had been contracted, with
+his furs, which he carried to our opponents, he watched his return,
+and calling him in, demanded payment; an insolent reply was the return
+for his kindness, which so much exasperated him, that he kicked him
+out in presence of several other Indians. The insult was not
+forgotten. Soon after his arrival this spring, he sent for Mr. Fisher,
+who complied with the invitation, expecting payment of his debt. The
+moment he entered the house, however, he discovered that he had been
+inveigled. The Indian stood before him, his face painted, and a pistol
+in his hand, which he presented. In an instant Mr. Fisher bared his
+breast, and staring his enemy fiercely in the face, exclaimed, "Fire,
+you black dog! What! did you imagine you had sent for an old woman?"
+
+    [1] The term Bourgeois is used for Master throughout the
+    Indian country.
+
+Mr. Fisher's knowledge of the Indian character saved his life; had he
+betrayed the slightest symptom of fear, he was a dead man; but the
+undaunted attitude he assumed staggered the resolution of the savage;
+a new bias seemed to operate on his mind, probably through a feeling
+of respect for the determined courage displayed by his intended
+victim. He could not brace his nerves to a second effort; his hand
+dropped listlessly by his side; his gaze was fixed on Mr. Fisher for a
+moment; then dashing the pistol violently on the ground, he beckoned
+him to withdraw.[1]
+
+    [1] At that period some of the Iroquois made good hunts,
+    trapping beaver along the main rivers and outskirts of the
+    Algonquin lands.
+
+Immediately after the close of the spring trade, the most formidable
+of our opponents _hinted_ that he might be induced to quit the field;
+a negotiation was accordingly opened with him, which soon terminated
+in a favourable issue, on very advantageous terms to the retiring
+party.
+
+The solitary being who remained behind was thus thrown upon his own
+resources, and his efforts to maintain the unequal contest unaided,
+were so feeble and ineffectual, that the Company might be said to hold
+a monopoly of the fur-trade at this period; but thereafter they paid
+dearly for their triumph, as further sacrifices had yet to be made ere
+they could enjoy it in quiet. A Canadian merchant, in easy
+circumstances, who dwelt opposite to the village, having learned the
+advantageous terms obtained by the petty traders from the Company,
+addressed a very polite note to Mr. Fisher, stating his intention to
+try his fortune as a trader, but that he would have no objection to
+postpone the attempt for five years, provided the Company would allow
+him 150l. per annum, during that period. The proposal was submitted to
+Mr. Thane, who laconically replied, "Let him do his worst, and be...."
+Accordingly, St. Julien immediately commenced operations. He hired one
+end of an Indian house, which he fitted up as a trader's shop: Fisher
+hired the other end. St. Julien then removed to another: Fisher
+occupied the other end of that house also. St. Julien next rented a
+_whole_ house: Fisher purchased a house, placed it upon rollers, and
+wheeled it directly in front of that of his rival, rearwards, scarcely
+leaving sufficient room for one person to pass between the premises.
+This caused great amusement to the Indians; not so to St. Julien, who
+had not anticipated so excessive a desire on the part of any of the
+Company's officers for so close an intimacy; and at the end of six
+weeks he took his departure without pay or pension from the Company.
+
+In the course of this summer our Algonquins received a visit from a
+party of Ottawas, (this tribe occupies the hunting grounds in the
+vicinity of Michimmakina or Makinaw, and speaks the Sauteaux
+language,) which created considerable alarm in the village, as they
+came for the purpose of demanding satisfaction for the murder of one
+of their tribe, which had been perpetrated two years before by an
+Algonquin. The details of the atrocious deed were communicated to me
+as follows. The Ottawas and Algonquins, with their families, were
+proceeding in company to the Lake, in the spring of 1819, when being
+encamped in the neighbourhood of the long Sault rapid, the Algonquin
+sprang upon his unsuspecting companion, and cleft his skull with his
+tomahawk, without the least apparent provocation; then dragging the
+body to the water's edge, he cut it up into small pieces, and threw
+them in. He next despatched the woman, and mutilated her body in the
+same savage manner, having first committed the most horrible barbarity
+on her person; (the recital of which curdled my blood; and yet our
+Christianized (?) Algonquins laughed heartily on hearing it!) The
+demon in human form, with the yet reeking tomahawk raised over the
+heads of his wife and children, made them swear that they would never
+divulge the horrid deed; but they did disclose it; and it was from the
+wife the tale of horror was elicited. The object of the Ottawas was
+not revenge. Compensation to the full estimated value of the lives of
+a man and woman was all they demanded; and that they received to an
+amount that far exceeded their expectations. Had the murderer been in
+the village the chiefs declared they would have given him up; but they
+had already delivered him over to the proper authorities, and he was
+then in prison waiting his sentence.
+
+It has been already mentioned, that the Company had assumed the
+outstanding debts of the petty traders. When the accounts were closed
+this autumn, the aggregate amount of liabilities due to the Company
+exhibited the enormous sum of seventy-two thousand dollars--not a
+shilling of that sum has ever been repaid.
+
+Soon after the departure of the natives for the interior, I was
+notified of my appointment to the charge of the Chats post. My friend
+Mac also received marching orders; and after parting with him I took
+leave of the Lake of Two Mountains on the 20th of August.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+ARRIVAL AT THE CHATS--INSTALLED AS BOURGEOIS--FIRST TRADING
+EXCURSION--BIVOUAC IN THE WOODS--INDIAN BARBARITY.
+
+
+I ARRIVED at the Chats on the 26th of August, 1822. As we approached
+the establishment, the crew struck up a song which soon attracted the
+notice of its only inmate; a tall gaunt figure, who was observed
+moving toward the landing-place, where it remained stationary. With
+the exception of this solitary being, no sign of animation was
+perceptible. We landed, and found the recluse to be the gentleman whom
+I was to succeed. The men belonging to the post were at the time
+employed elsewhere; fire-arms were therefore discharged, to summon
+them to return. An old interpreter and two men, constituting the force
+at this station, soon made their appearance. Such an uncommon event as
+an _arrival_ seemed to produce an exhilarating effect upon them.
+Immediately after my landing the charge was made over to me; and on
+the following day my predecessor, Mr. Macdonald, took his departure,
+leaving me to the fellowship of my own musings, which for a time
+assumed but sombre hues; but I was then young, and the hopes and
+aspirations of an ardent mind threw a halo around the gloomy path that
+lay before me, and resting upon the bright spots that glimmered in the
+distant background, concealed from my view the toils and miseries I
+had to experience in the intermediate passage.
+
+On assuming the responsibility of this post, I found myself in a
+position which gratified my vanity. I was Bourgeois of the Chats; had
+an interpreter and two men subject to my orders; and could make such
+arrangements as my own inclinations dictated, without the surveillance
+of a superior. I was, in fact, master of my own time and of my own
+actions; could fiddle when I pleased, and dance when I had a mind with
+my own shadow; no person here dared to question my actions.
+
+About the beginning of September the natives began to pass for the
+interior, and to my great surprise appeared to be in want of further
+supplies, although they had left the Lake amply provided with
+everything necessary. Some of them took advances here again to a
+considerable amount. I learned from them that a petty trader who had
+just then sprung into existence, intended to establish a couple of
+posts in the interior of the district--(this post being subject to the
+Lake of Two Mountains.) This was rather an unpleasant piece of
+intelligence, and quite unexpected by my superiors or myself. I
+despatched a messenger to head-quarters to give the alarm, and was
+soon joined by a reinforcement of men conducted by a junior clerk and
+an interpreter. Preparations were then made to follow up this new
+competitor the moment he appeared. He did not allow us to remain long
+in suspense. A few days afterwards his party was observed passing in
+two canoes; our people were immediately in their wake, and I remained
+with but one man and the old interpreter during the winter. I had only
+two Indian hunters to attend to; one in the immediate vicinity of the
+post, the other about three days' journey distant. Late in autumn I
+was gratified by a visit from the superintendent of the district, who
+expressed himself perfectly satisfied with my arrangements. As soon as
+the river _set fast_ with ice, I resolved on paying a visit to my more
+remote customer, and assumed the snow-shoes for the first time. I set
+out with my _only_ man, leaving the old interpreter sole occupier of
+the post. My man had visited the Indian on several occasions during
+the previous winter, and told me that he usually halted at a
+Chantier,[1] on the way to his lodge. We arrived late in the evening at
+the locality in question, and finding a quantity of timber collected
+on the ice, concluded that the _shanty_ must be close at hand. We
+accordingly followed the lumber-track until we reached the hut which
+had formerly afforded such comfortable accommodation to my companion.
+Great was our disappointment, however, to find it now tenantless, and
+almost buried in snow. I had made an extraordinary effort to reach the
+spot in the hope of procuring good quarters for the night, and was now
+so completely exhausted by fatigue that I could proceed no further.
+The night was dark, and to make our situation as cheerless as
+possible, it was discovered that my companion had left his
+"fire-works" behind--a proof of his inexperience. Under these
+circumstances our preparations were necessarily few. Having laid a few
+boughs of pine upon the snow, we wrapped ourselves up in our blankets,
+and lay down together. I passed the night without much rest; but my
+attendant--a hardy Canadian--kept the wild beasts at bay by his deep
+snoring, until dawn. I found myself completely benumbed with cold; a
+smart walk, however, soon put the blood in circulation, and ere long
+we entered a shanty where we experienced the usual hospitality of
+these generous folks. Here we borrowed a "smoking-bag," containing a
+steel, flint, and tinder. With the aid of these desiderata in the
+appointments of a voyageur, we had a comfortable encampment on the
+following night.
+
+    [1] The hut used by the lumbermen, and the root of the
+    well-known "shanty."
+
+The mode of constructing a winter encampment is simply this:--you
+measure with your eye the extent of ground you require for your
+purpose, then taking off your snow-shoes, use them as shovels to clear
+away the snow. This operation over, the finer branches of the balsam
+tree are laid upon the ground to a certain depth; then logs of dry
+wood are placed at right angles to the feet at a proper distance, and
+ignited by means of the "fire-works" alluded to. In such an encampment
+as this, after a plentiful supper of half-cooked peas and Indian
+corn--the inland travelling fare of the Montreal department--and a
+day's hard walking, one enjoys a repose to which the voluptuary
+reclining on his bed of down is a perfect stranger.
+
+We reached our destination on the following day about noon, where we
+found but little to recompense us for our journey. Both our own people
+from the outpost and our opponents had already traded all the furs the
+Indian had to dispose of, although his supplies at the Lake of Two
+Mountains and at my post amounted to a sum that would have required
+his utmost exertions to pay. We remained that night at his lodge, and
+very early on the succeeding morning, started on our return. With the
+exception of a couple of trips I made to the inland posts, nothing
+disturbed the monotony of my avocations during the remaining part of
+the winter. Petty traders swarmed all over the country; the posts
+which were established in the interior to cope with them traded freely
+with the natives, in order to secure their furs from competitors. Thus
+the immense sacrifices which the Company had made to obtain a
+monopoly, as they imagined, yielded them no advantage whatever; and
+repeated defalcations on the part of the natives, induced them to
+curtail their advances at their principal station. The natives,
+however, found no difficulty in procuring their requisites in exchange
+for their furs, either from the posts belonging to the Company in the
+interior, or from the opposition; for they were, with few exceptions,
+of the same character as the individual already alluded to.
+
+The Indian whom I mentioned as residing in the neighbourhood of the
+establishment arrived, late in autumn, from the Lake, where he could
+not obtain a charge of ammunition on credit. I supplied all his wants
+liberally, knowing him to be a good hunter, though a notorious rogue;
+and he set out for his hunting grounds, to all appearance well
+pleased.
+
+In the course of the winter a Yankee adventurer opened a "grog shop,"
+within a short distance of the depôt, who appeared to have no
+objection to a beaver's skin in exchange for his commodities. My
+Indian debtor returned in the month of March, with a tolerable "hunt,"
+and pitched his tent midway between the post and my Yankee neighbour.
+I called upon the Indian immediately for payment, which he told me I
+should receive on the morrow. I went accordingly at the time
+appointed, and was annoyed to find that he had already disposed of a
+part of his furs for the Yankee's whiskey; and I therefore demanded
+payment in a tone of voice which clearly indicated that I was in
+earnest. To-morrow was mentioned again; but having come with the
+determination of being satisfied on the spot, I seized, without
+further ceremony, what furs remained, and throwing them out of the
+wigwam to my man, who was placed there to receive them, I remained
+within, to bear the brunt of the Indian's resentment, should he show
+any, until my man had secured the prize. I was well prepared to defend
+myself, in case of any violence being offered. Nothing of the kind was
+attempted, however; and I took my leave, after sustaining a volley of
+abuse, which did me no harm. The Indian paid me a visit next morning,
+for the purpose of settling accounts, a small balance being due to
+him, which, at his own request, was paid in rum. I soon after received
+another visit, for nectar, on credit; this request I granted.
+
+The visits, however, were repeated so often for the same purpose, that
+I at length found it advisable to give a denial, by proxy, not wishing
+to part on bad terms with him, if possible, on account of the spring
+hunt. I absented myself from the house, having instructed my
+interpreter how to act. I took my station in a small grove of pines,
+close by, watching for the appointed signal to apprise me of the
+departure of the Indian. My attention was suddenly arrested by most
+doleful cries at the house; and presently the voice of my interpreter
+was heard, calling me loudly by name. I ran at the top of my speed,
+and arrived just in time to save the life of a poor old woman, who had
+been making sugar in my neighbourhood. I found the father and two
+sons, both approaching manhood, in a complete state of nudity, dancing
+round the body of their victim (to all appearance dead), their bodies
+besmeared with blood, and exulting in the barbarous deed they had
+committed. My interpreter informed me, that as soon as they observed
+the old woman approaching the house, the Christian father told his
+sons that now was the time to take revenge for the death of their
+brother, whose life had been destroyed by this woman's "bad medicine."
+We drove the wretches away, and carried the miserable woman into the
+house; and so dreadfully bruised and mangled were her head and face,
+that not the least trace of her features could be distinguished. At
+the end of a month she recovered sufficiently to crawl about. Her son
+passed in the spring, with an excellent hunt. When I related to him
+the manner his mother had been treated by the Indians, and the care I
+had taken of her, he coolly replied that he was sure they were bad
+Indians. "It was very charitable of you," said he, "to have taken so
+much care of the old woman. Come to my wigwam next winter, and I shall
+trade with you, and treat you well." In the meantime every skin he had
+went to our opponents, although he was deeply indebted to the Company.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+TRIP TO FORT COULONGE--MR. GODIN--NATIVES.
+
+
+A large canoe arrived from Montreal about the latter end of June, by
+which I received orders to proceed to Fort Coulonge, situated about
+eighty miles higher up the Ottawa, to relieve the person then in
+charge of that post. I accordingly embarked in the same canoe,
+accompanied by my young friend Mr. MacDougal, who joined me last
+autumn, and who kindly volunteered to proceed along with me to my
+destination. This canoe was under the charge of people hired for the
+trip, and directed by the bowsman, or guide. I soon discovered that I
+was considered merely as a piece of live lumber on board. My companion
+and myself were reduced to the necessity of cooking our own victuals,
+or of going without them. We pitched our tent as best we could, and
+packed it up in the morning without the slightest offer of assistance
+from the crew.
+
+No incident worthy of notice occurred until we reached the Grand
+Calumet Portage, the longest on the Ottawa River. The crew slept at
+the further end of the portage, whither the canoe and part of the
+cargo had been carried during the day, and we pitched our tent there
+also in the usual awkward manner. The weather was very fine in the
+evening, but soon after night-fall a tremendous storm burst upon us:
+our tent was blown about our ears in an instant. We endeavoured to
+compose ourselves to rest underneath, but found it impracticable. We
+then attempted to pitch it anew, but our strength and ingenuity were
+not sufficient for the purpose. We tried afterwards to find shelter
+under the canoe (the rain pouring in torrents), but the crew were
+already in possession, and so closely packed, that not an inch was
+unoccupied. Thus baffled on every hand, we passed the night completely
+exposed to the "pelting of the pitiless storm," learning a lesson of
+practical philosophy which I have not yet forgotten.
+
+We arrived at Fort Coulonge early the next day, when a portly old
+gentleman, bearing a paunch that might have done credit to an
+Edinburgh baillie, came puffing down to the landing-place to receive
+us. We soon discovered that Mr. Godin was only "nominally" in charge
+of the establishment, for that his daughter, a stout, masculine-looking
+wench, full thirty summers blown, possessed what little authority was
+required for the management of affairs.
+
+We arrived on Wednesday. The father proposed setting out for Montreal
+on Friday; the daughter objected the ill luck of the day: it was
+finally determined that they should embark on Thursday, however late.
+The necessary preparations were immediately commenced under her
+ladyship's superintendence, and being completed late in the evening,
+they embarked, leaving me perfectly alone. The contracts with the men
+had just expired, which I proposed to renew, but the answer from one
+and all was, "I shall follow my bourgeois." This was the result of the
+old gentleman's arrangements (having been ordered off contrary to his
+wishes), and which might have been anticipated by those who appointed
+me to the situation; but it would have been derogatory to the exalted
+rank of their highnesses to bestow any consideration on such trivial
+matters as related to the comfort or convenience of a paltry
+apprentice! Their neglect, however, might have been attended on this
+occasion with serious consequences to the Company's interests, as I
+had never seen any of the Indians of that quarter before, and knew
+very little of their mode of trading. It was a fortunate circumstance
+for myself that I understood the language sufficiently well to
+converse with the natives, otherwise my situation would have been
+disagreeable in the extreme. I remained alone until the latter end of
+July, when I was joined by an English lad, whom I induced by the
+promise of high wages to leave his former employers (lumbermen) and
+share my solitude.
+
+The history of my predecessor being rather singular, a few words here
+regarding him may perhaps not be considered out of place. He commenced
+his career as a hired servant, or Voyageur, as they are termed in the
+country, and was thirty years of age before he knew a letter of the
+alphabet. Being a man possessed of strong natural parts, and great
+bodily strength withal, he soon distinguished himself as an under
+trader of uncommon tact,--his prowess as a pugilist also gave him a
+very decided advantage in the field of competition. Endowed with such
+qualifications, his services were duly appreciated by the traders, and
+he knew full well how to turn them to his own advantage. He served all
+parties alike; that is, he served each in turn, and cheated and
+deceived them all.
+
+After the organization of the North-West Company, he entered their
+service; and returning to the same quarter, Temiscamingue, where he
+had wintered for his last employer, he passed the post unperceived,
+and falling in with a band of Indians, whom he himself had supplied
+the preceding autumn, told them he still belonged to the same party,
+and traded all their furs on the spot. The North-West Company gave him
+charge of a post, when his subtle management soon cleared the country
+of opposition.
+
+The natives of Temiscamingue were in those times very treacherous, as
+they would be at this day, did they not dread the consequences;
+several men had been murdered by them, and they at length became
+exceedingly bold and daring in deeds of violence. One example is
+sufficient:--Godin happened, on one occasion, to remain at his post
+with only one man, who attended the nets,--fish being the staff of
+life in that quarter. Visiting them regularly every day to procure his
+own and his master's subsistence, his return was one morning delayed
+much beyond the usual time. Godin felt so anxious, that he determined
+on going to the fishery to learn the cause; and just as he had quitted
+the house with that intention, he met an Indian who had been for some
+time encamped in the vicinity, and asked him--
+
+"What news?"
+
+"I have killed a white dog this morning," was the reply.
+
+"Indeed!" said Godin, feigning ignorance of the Indian's meaning:
+"Pray, to whom did he belong?"
+
+"He was a stray dog, I believe."
+
+Conversing with him in this strain, he threw the Indian completely off
+his guard, while he approached him until he was sufficiently near him
+for his purpose, when, raising his powerful arm, he struck the savage
+a blow under the ear that felled him to the ground,--he fell to rise
+no more. The next moment, a couple of well-disposed Indians came to
+inform Godin of the murder of his man, which it appeared they could
+not prevent. "My children," said he, with the utmost composure, "the
+Master of life has punished your kinsman on the spot for taking the
+life of a white man; he told me just now that he had killed a white
+dog, and had scarcely finished the sentence when he fell down dead at
+my feet. Feel his body, it must be still warm; examine it, and satisfy
+yourselves that he has suffered no violence from me, and you see that
+I have no weapons about me."
+
+Godin was soon afterwards removed to Fort Coulonge, and was allowed a
+high salary by the North-West Company. Here he learned to read and
+write, and married a fair countrywoman of his own, who resided the
+greater part of the time in Montreal, where, to make the gentleman's
+establishment complete, he had the good taste to introduce his
+mistress. A circumstance that presents his character in its true
+colours made his wife acquainted with his infidelity. Writing to both
+his ladies at the same time, he unwittingly addressed his mistress's
+letter to his wife, by which she learnt, with other matters, that a
+present of ten prime otters had been sent to her rival. The enraged
+wife carried the letter to Mr. Thane, from whom, however, she met with
+a very different reception to what she had anticipated. After perusing
+the letter, he ordered her immediately out of his presence. "Begone,
+vile woman!" he exclaimed: "What! would you really wish to see your
+husband hanged?"
+
+The Company were well aware of Godin's tricks, but winked at them on
+account of his valuable services. He was removed from Fort Coulonge in
+consequence of mismanagement, (occasioned by aberration of his mental
+faculties,) and was allowed by the Company to retire with a pension of
+100l. per annum. The transcript of a public letter, addressed to Mr.
+Thane, will show his attainments in literature; and, with this I shall
+close my sketch of Mr. Godin:--
+
+  "Mon'r Tane,
+
+    "Cher Mon'r,
+
+    "Vot letre ma té livie par Guiaume dean aisi qui
+  le butin tout a bon ord le Shauvages on ben travaié
+  set anne et bon aparans de bon retour st. anne Dieu
+  merci je ne jami vu tant de moustique et de maragoen
+  com il en a st anne je pens desend st anne ver le meme
+  tan com l'anné pasé.
+
+          "Je sui,
+
+            "Cher Mon'r, &c.
+
+                "JOSEPH GODIN."
+
+The Indians attached to this post speak the Sauteux language, and are
+denominated "Tetes des Boules" by the French, and "Men of the Woods"
+by the other Indians. Although so near to priests and ministers, they
+are still Pagans, but are nevertheless a quiet harmless race, and
+excellent hunters. The greater part of them originally belonged to
+Temiscamingue, and were drawn to this quarter by Mr. Godin. A
+considerable number of Algonquins also trade here, where they pass the
+greater part of their lives without visiting the Lake. The people
+appear to me to differ in no respect from their heathen brethren, save
+in the very negligent observance of certain external forms of worship,
+and in being more enlightened in the arts of deceiving and lying.
+
+About the middle of August, I was gratified by the arrival of Mr.
+Godin's interpreter, and three men, by whom I received letters from
+head-quarters, informing me that my neighbours of last winter intended
+to establish posts in this quarter also, and that I should soon be
+joined by a strong reinforcement of men, to enable me to cope
+successfully with them. We complain of solitude in the Indian forests,
+yet the vicinity of such a neighbour is considered the greatest evil;
+and instead of cherishing the feelings enjoined in the Decalogue, one
+hates his neighbour as the d----l, and employs every means to get rid
+of him.
+
+The natives having been all supplied, had taken their departure for
+their hunting-grounds by the latter end of August; I then commenced
+making the arrangements requisite for the coming contest.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+SUPERSEDED--FEELINGS ON THE OCCASION--MORE OPPOSITION--Æ.
+MACDONELL--TACTICS--MELANCHOLY DEATH OF AN INDIAN.
+
+
+About the middle of September, I observed a north canoe paddling in
+for the landing-place, having a gentleman passenger on board, who
+immediately on landing ordered his servant to carry his baggage up to
+the Fort. On his entering the house, the apparent mystery was soon
+unfolded. Mr. Siviright handed me a letter from Mr. Thane, conveying
+the agreeable Intelligence of my being superseded by the
+bearer,--commanding me to obey him as my bourgeois, and to conduct
+myself in such a manner as to give Mr. S. every satisfaction. The
+latter injunction I felt very little inclination to comply with at the
+time; in fact, the slight put upon me caused my northern blood to rise
+to fever heat; and in this excited frame of mind I sat down to reply
+to the "great man's" communication, in which I gave vent to my injured
+feelings in very plain language. What he may have thought of the
+epistle, I know not, as he never deigned to reply. It was
+inconsiderate in me, however, to have so acted; but prudence had not
+yet assumed her due influence over me.
+
+Mr. S. had been at that time twenty-four years in the service, I only
+three; he had therefore a superior claim to any I could advance: but
+why not inform me at once that my appointment to the charge was merely
+temporary? This double dealing manifested a distrust of me, for which
+no cause could possibly be assigned: that excited my resentment, and
+not the circumstance of being superseded.
+
+Towards the latter end of the month of September, our opponents made
+their appearance in three small canoes, while I embarked in pursuit
+with the same number. One of my north canoes was in charge of three
+men, the others contained two, counting myself as a man. Having become
+rather expert as an amateur voyageur, I considered myself capable of
+undertaking the real duty now, and accordingly volunteered my services
+as steersman, as no additional hand could be spared, without great
+inconvenience to my bourgeois. A little experience convinced me,
+however, that my zeal exceeded my ability. My opponent was in a light
+canoe, and moved, about with a celerity that my utmost exertions could
+not cope with; for as soon as an Indian canoe appeared, he paddled off
+for it; I of course attempted to compete, but generally arrived just
+in time to find that he had already concluded his transaction with the
+hunters.
+
+We reached Black River on the third day from Fort Coulonge, where it
+appeared my opponent's intention to remain for some time, to await the
+arrival of certain Indians who were expected down by that river. I
+determined therefore to despatch a canoe to Fort Coulonge, to acquaint
+Mr. S with the particulars above related; and sent back therewith such
+of the property as I thought could be dispensed with at the time, as
+it was quite evident we could not keep up with our opponent in the
+portages with such a quantity of baggage as we then had, and we could
+obtain no information that could be depended upon as to their ultimate
+destination--it might be at the distance of a hundred miles, or only
+ten.
+
+My messengers were but two days absent; and I was not a little
+mortified to learn from them, that Mr. S., instead of attending to my
+suggestions, not only returned all the property I had sent, but nearly
+an equal quantity in addition. He wrote me his reasons for doing so;
+but I felt assured that he had no other object in view than to show me
+that he was the superior, I the subordinate; and I resolved from that
+moment, to perform no more extra duty.
+
+After continuing a fortnight at our encampment, we again embarked,
+when I ordered the third man in the large canoe into my own, and
+tossing my paddle down stream, took my station in the middle of my
+canoe. A few hours' paddling brought us to an old shanty in the island
+of Allumette, where, to my great joy, I perceived my opponent intended
+to fix his winter quarters. We accordingly commenced erecting a couple
+of huts, a store, and dwelling-house, in close proximity to him. This
+being the best season of the year for the natives to hunt, it was the
+interest of all parties not to molest them; and we therefore employed
+our time in preparing suitable accommodation for the winter.
+
+On the completion of our arrangements, I set out, about the beginning
+of October, on a visit to Fort Coulonge; and on the day after my
+arrival there we observed a north canoe paddling slowly past, and
+distinguished the features of every individual on board through a
+telescope, but could recognise no one: however, to clear up the doubt,
+the interpreter was sent after them in a small canoe, with
+instructions to make a close scrutiny. They no sooner discovered that
+he was in pursuit, than they ceased paddling. After a long
+confabulation he learned that they were proceeding to Sault St. Marie,
+where they intended to settle. I passed two days with my bourgeois,
+and returned home, where we--our opponents and ourselves--watched each
+other's movements, being our only occupation until the end of
+November, when Mr. S. paid me a visit, which proved anything but
+gratifying.
+
+
+He (Mr. S.) had learned from some lumbermen, that the "Settlers for
+the Sault Ste. Marie" were an opposition party conducted by Mr. Æneas
+Macdonell, my predecessor at the Chats; and that he purposed to
+_settle_ for the winter near Lac des Allumettes. This gentleman's
+engagement had been cancelled at the earnest solicitation of his
+father, whom death had lately deprived of another son; and who now, to
+requite the favour granted to him by the Company, sent this son in
+opposition! We had barely a sufficient number of men to perform the
+necessary duties of the two posts already established; we were,
+therefore, completely at a loss to meet this emergency. Mr. S. could
+spare one man only from his own post, whom he brought up to me.
+
+I embarked early next morning with one of my own men, in search of the
+"settler." On reaching Lac des Allumettes on the same evening, our
+attention was arrested by the voices of Indians, singing on an island.
+We immediately pulled in for the spot, and found a large camp of
+Algonquins, men, women and children, all in a state of intoxication;
+from whom I learned, though with much difficulty, the whereabouts of
+Macdonell's retreat. Quitting this disgusting scene as speedily as
+possible, we resumed our paddles, and soon afterwards discovered the
+opposition post. When we landed, my quondam mess-mate advanced to
+receive me, and, after a cordial shake of the hand, kindly invited me
+to pass the night with him. I gladly accepted the offer; and was not a
+little concerned to perceive that his preparations for winter were
+already complete; a circumstance which gave him a decided advantage.
+Happening in the course of conversation to express my surprise at
+seeing him in the character of an opponent, he told me that nothing
+could be farther from his intention than to oppose the Company. He
+came to this quarter for the purpose of preparing timber for the
+Quebec market; in provincial phrase, "to make a shanty." But I knew
+well enough his designs.
+
+I started early next morning on my return, and immediately thereafter
+prepared a small outfit; and re-embarked next evening with five men in
+two canoes, leaving the interpreter in charge of the post, with one
+man to assist him.
+
+Having experienced very bad weather on our way, and consequently some
+delay, we did not reach our new station until late in the evening of
+the fourth day. I immediately sent back two of the men to the
+interpreter, and retained three with myself, which placed me on a par
+with my opponent in point of numbers. But he was now ready for active
+operations, while I had every thing to prepare. I resolved, however,
+to forego every personal comfort and convenience rather than allow him
+to enjoy any advantage over me. I accordingly assisted in erecting a
+small hut, which I intended should serve for dwelling-house for myself
+and men, trading-shop, store and all.
+
+A couple of days after our arrival, Macdonell was seen walking down to
+the water's edge with a very cautious step, accompanied by one of his
+men, bearing his canoe, basket fashion, on one arm, and a large bundle
+on the other, from which, notwithstanding his steady pace, the
+jumbling sound of liquor was distinctly heard.
+
+"Holla, Mac, where are you going with your basket?"
+
+"Why, I am going across to Herd's shanty, to get my axes ground."
+
+"My dear fellow, how can you think of risking yourself in such a
+gimcrack contrivance as that? I must absolutely send a couple of my
+men along with you to see no accident happens to you."
+
+Having a parcel of goods ready for emergencies of this kind, my men
+started in a moment, and embarked at the same time as my neighbour. I
+continued with my only man completing my castle; but the earth being
+already hard frozen, no clay could be obtained for the purpose of
+plastering; the interstices between the logs were therefore caulked
+with moss; a large aperture being left in the roof to serve the
+double purpose of chimney and window. I had formerly seen houses so
+constructed--somewhere--but let no one dare to imagine that I allude
+to "my own, my native land." Stones were piled up against the logs, to
+protect them from the fire. The timber required for floor, door, and
+beds, was all prepared with the axe; our building being thus rendered
+habitable without even going to the extent of Lycurgus' frugal laws,
+for the axe was our only implement.
+
+My opponent returned in four days, having been at an Indian camp, not
+far distant, where both he and our people traded a considerable
+quantity of furs. This was our only trip by open water. As soon as the
+river became ice-bound, we were again in motion.
+
+To enter into minute details of our various movements would but prove
+tedious; I shall therefore present a general sketch of our mode of
+life at this period, and such occurrences as I may consider worthy of
+note.
+
+Macdonell had chosen his situation with great judgment. The majority
+of the Algonquins take their start from the Grand River at this place
+for their hunting-grounds. Some of them not being more than a day's
+journey distant from us, the joyful intelligence soon spread amongst
+them that an opposition party had been established in their
+neighbourhood; they accordingly flocked about us as soon as travelling
+became practicable on the ice, and generally brought with them the
+means of ensuring a friendly reception. One party came in at this
+early season with all their fall hunts, which they bartered for
+liquors and provisions, and encamped close by, enjoying themselves,
+until an event occurred that alarmed them so much, (being with some
+reason considered by them as a punishment for the wicked life they had
+led,) that with the utmost precipitation they struck their camp.
+
+I was joined early in the month of January by a party of men and a
+clerk, whom Mr. S. had ordered, or rather "requested," from Montreal;
+and having, on the day of their arrival, received an invitation from
+one of our Algonquin chiefs to pay him a _trading_ visit, I started
+next day, leaving Mr. Lane in charge, accompanied by two men, and
+reached the chief's wigwam late in the evening. As soon as I was
+seated, he asked me if I had not met the Matawin Indians. On my
+replying in the negative, he informed me that they had passed his
+place early in the morning, loaded with furs, and that they expressed
+their intention of proceeding to the post before they halted. These
+Indians had all been supplied by myself in autumn to a large amount;
+so that the intelligence acted on my nerves like an electric shock. I
+felt much fatigued on entering the lodge, but I now sprung to my feet,
+as fresh for the journey as when I had commenced it; and ordering one
+of my men to return with me, left the other, an experienced hand, to
+manage affairs with the chief.
+
+I arrived at my post about two next morning, when I found the Indians,
+some at our hut, some at our opponent's, all of them approaching the
+climax of Indian happiness, and Mr. Lane in a state of mind bordering
+on distraction. Neither he nor any of the men had ever seen any of
+these Indians before, nor did they understand a word of the language.
+The Indians were honest enough, however, to give him their furs in
+charge till my return; reserving only a small quantity to dispose of
+at discretion. My arrival was soon announced at my neighbour's, and
+brought the whole bevy about me in an instant, only one individual
+remaining behind. On inquiring into the cause of his absence, his
+companions replied that he had fallen asleep immediately after he had
+supped, and that they did not wish to disturb him.
+
+A few hours afterwards I was not a little surprised to see my
+neighbour entering our hut hurriedly, who addressed me thus:--
+
+"My dear Mac, it is true we are in opposition, but no enmity exists
+between us. A dreadful misfortune happened in my house last
+night.--Come and see!"
+
+I instantly complied with his request; proceeded to his hut, and saw
+the Indian who was said to be asleep, with his eyes closed--for ever;
+a sad spectacle, for it was evident that the death of the poor wretch
+had been caused by intemperance; he was found in the morning lying on
+his face, and his body already stiff. We were both alike involved in
+the same awful responsibility, for the Indians drank as much at one
+house as the other, though his death occurred at the establishment of
+the other party. The Company only permit the sale of liquors to the
+natives when the presence of opponents renders it an indispensable
+article of trade, as it is by this unhallowed traffic that the petty
+traders realize their greatest profit. Yet this plea of necessity,
+however satisfactory it may appear in a certain quarter, will not,
+I feel assured, be accepted in our vindication by the world, nor
+hereafter in our justification at that tribunal where worldly
+considerations have no influence. Information soon reached the camp of
+the calamity that had happened, which promptly silenced the clamorous
+mirth that prevailed; and the voice of mourning succeeded--the Indians
+being all in good crying trim, that is, intoxicated; for I have never
+seen an Indian shed a tear when sober.
+
+No more liquor was traded; the relatives of the deceased departed with
+the body to the Lake of Two Mountains, and the other Indians started
+for their hunting-grounds--thus granting us a short respite from
+the arduous duties in which we had been engaged. While the Indians
+remained about us we never enjoyed a moment's refreshing rest, our hut
+being crowded with them night and day. It was at times with difficulty
+we could prepare our victuals, or, when cooked, command sufficient
+time to partake of a hasty meal, in the midst of the "living mass"
+that environed us. All this was extremely annoying; but other comforts
+must be added ere this picture of the life we then led is complete.
+The motions of our opponents must needs be attended to, at dawn of
+day; each morning every path was carefully examined, to ascertain that
+no one had started during night: these precautions were also
+punctually taken by our opponents; and every stratagem that could be
+devised to elude each other's vigilance put in practice, it being the
+"interest" of each party to reach the Indians alone.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+ACTIVITY OF OUR OPPONENTS--VIOLENT CONDUCT OF AN INDIAN--NARROW
+ESCAPE--ARTIFICE--TRIP TO INDIAN'S LODGE--STUPIDITY OF INTERPRETER.
+
+
+When we discovered that our opponents had outwitted us, we would
+despatch messengers in pursuit; and I need scarcely add, the same
+means were resorted to by our neighbours, when inquisitive about
+our movements. We had now the advantage in point of numbers, being
+nearly two to one; yet it so happened that we seldom could perform
+a trip unattended; very frequently by a single man against two or
+three--still he got his share; for the system of trade in this quarter
+does not allow violent means being employed to obtain possession of
+the products of the hunt. The mode of procedure is this:--On entering
+the lodge of an Indian, you present him with a small keg of nectar, as
+a propitiatory offering; then, in suppliant tones, request payment of
+the debt he may owe you, which he probably defers to a future day--the
+day of judgment. If your opponent be present, you dare not open your
+lips in objection to the delay; for you may offend his dignity, and
+consequently lose all his furs. This you are aware of, and accordingly
+proceed to untie your pack, and exposing its contents to view, solicit
+him to give, at least, the preference in trade. Your opponent, on the
+other side of the fire-place, having also poured out his libation,
+imitates your example in every respect; and most probably he may
+secure the wife, while you engage the husband as customers.
+
+A few weeks elapsed without the arrival of any hunters, and we were
+beginning to recover from the effects of our late fatigues, when a
+numerous band arrived from a considerable distance, and encamped on
+the same spot that had been occupied by those lately noticed, and the
+same riotous scenes were again enacted, although these new comers were
+fully aware of the misfortune that had already occurred in consequence
+of similar disgusting intemperance.
+
+Among this band was a son of the principal sachem of the Algonquins,
+who was acknowledged heir apparent to his _dad's vermin_, and who
+assumed the airs of a man of great consequence, in virtue of his
+prospective dignity. The father bore a respectable character; the son
+was a sot. In consideration of his furs, however, I paid him some
+little attentions, though much against my inclination. He came one
+evening reeling into our hut, more than "half-seas over," having been
+thus far advanced on his voyage to Elysium through the insinuating
+influences of my opponent's "fire-water;" and seating himself on a
+three-legged stool, close to the fire-place, he soon began to nod;
+then, losing his equilibrium, ultimately fell at full length on the
+floor. I could not suppress a smile at sight of his copper highness's
+prostrate position, when springing up in a furious passion, he seized
+an axe, and proceeded to demolish the seat. I wrested the axe from his
+grasp, and reprimanded him sharply for his insolence. This exasperated
+him to the utmost: he swore I was in league with the stool to insult
+him; but that he should be revenged on us both before morning.
+Uttering these menaces, he set out for the camp.
+
+It so happened that a strong party of men arrived on that evening from
+Fort Coulonge with supplies, and were huddled together with myself
+and my men, all under the same roof. The greater part of them lay
+down to rest; but a few still continued the vigil, indulging in the
+favourite luxury of smoking, and chatting about the enjoyments of
+"Mont-rial,"--when, all of a sudden, the dread-inspiring war-whoop
+echoed through our little hut; the next instant the door flew off
+its wooden hinges, and fell with a crash on the floor, exhibiting to
+view the person of the Indian, standing on the threshold, holding a
+double-barrelled gun in his hand, with blackened face and his eyes
+flashing fire.
+
+The men had now all started to their feet, as well as myself. The
+moment the eyes of the savage fell upon me, in the midst of the crowd,
+he brought the piece to bear upon me, or at least attempted to do
+so; but I sprang upon him with a bound, and beat the muzzle down;
+instantly the discharge followed: we then struggled for the possession
+of the gun, which I quickly wrested from his grasp; and, applying the
+butt end of it "gently" to his ear, laid him sprawling at my feet.
+
+On the discharge of the gun, I heard a voice calling out, "Mon Dieu!"
+and another, in a plaintive tone, exclaiming, "Ah mon garçon!" This
+was all I heard distinctly, when every voice joined in one cry,
+"Tueons le crapaud;" and presently the wretched Indian was kicked
+and cuffed by as many as could press round him. I called on them to
+desist--as well have spoken to the wind!--not a soul heeded my orders.
+At length one of them observed, "What occasion is there for more
+beating of him--the black dog is dead enough."
+
+I looked about for the person whom I supposed to have been wounded,
+in vain--the whole mass was in motion. As soon as the tumult had
+subsided, however, I was glad to find that no one had received any
+serious injury; the ball had grazed the thigh of a youth (who had
+arrived from Montreal on a visit to his father), and lodged in a log
+of the building.
+
+The uproar occasioned by the men soon brought the Indians from the
+camp about the hut; and perceiving the apparently lifeless body
+stretched on the floor, they raised a yell that was reverberated by
+the surrounding hills. "Revenge! revenge!" shouted every savage
+present. We mustered too strong, however, to permit their threats
+being put into execution without great hazard to themselves; which
+fact pressed itself so powerfully on their minds, that for the present
+they discreetly vented their rage in abuse, and returned to their
+quarters. Satisfied by the feeble beating of the Indian's pulse that
+the vital spark was not extinct, I would not allow his kinsmen to
+remove him. Towards morning, recovering the use of speech, he
+inquired, in a voice scarcely audible, if he "had shed the blood of a
+white man?" I replied in the affirmative. "Then," said he, "it would
+have been better had you despatched me at once, for I shall certainly
+be hanged."
+
+With the view of pacifying the natives, I deemed it advisable to
+represent the young man's wound as very severe, and exercised my wits
+to give my representation the semblance of truth. I caused the young
+man's leg to be carefully bandaged; and, luckily, happening to have
+a fresh beaver in the house, the bandage was speedily besmeared with
+its blood, and the sound patient placed in bed, with instructions how
+to act his part. The Indians returned early on the following morning
+to inquire after their young chief, and being all perfectly sober,
+I descanted on the calamity of the previous night, describing _my_
+young man's case to be of such a serious nature as to induce the
+apprehension that death, or at least amputation of the limb, would be
+the consequence. In confirmation of the veracity of this statement,
+the afflicted leg was exposed to view, while the patient's groans,
+which impressed on the minds of the bystanders the conviction of the
+pain he endured, prevented too close a scrutiny.
+
+"Alas!" they exclaimed, "it is all very true. Wagh! this is indeed a
+sad business; but the bad fire-water is to blame for it all."
+
+My stratagem had succeeded. Most of the natives acknowledged the
+justice of the punishment inflicted on their young chief, who had a
+brother present, however, whose sullen countenance betrayed the
+vindictive feelings in his breast, although he maintained a profound
+silence.
+
+The Fort Coulonge party started early next day, dragging their wounded
+companion on a sled, until they were out of sight. The relatives of
+the chief removed him to the camp, where he soon recovered. All the
+other Indians took their departure on the day following the affray.
+Shortly afterwards we were favoured with a visit from one whose
+hunting-grounds bordered on Rice Lake, a distance of 150 miles. I
+had advanced this Indian all the supplies he required previous to
+Mr. Siviright's arrival, which formed a pretty large amount. On
+examining the books, he animadverted upon the advance in terms of
+disapprobation, as being very imprudent to risk so much with an
+Indian. Most gratified and happy was I then to learn from the hunter
+that he had sufficient to liquidate the debt, and nearly as much more
+to trade. On making out his requisition for the latter purpose, it was
+found that four sleds at least would be required for the transport of
+all the property. To employ this number in one direction, however,
+would leave my neighbour at liberty to prosecute his views in another
+quarter without the necessary attendance. Still, I determined on
+risking a point, and securing at all hazards the valuable prize now
+offered. Obtaining a _piece_ at the sacrifice of a _pawn_ is
+considered good play.
+
+I proceeded accordingly with the Indian, accompanied by four men,
+all with heavily laden sleds, with a pack of goods strapped over my
+shoulders weighing eighty pounds. Macdonell did not follow, as the
+Indian gave him no encouragement. We reached the Indian's lodge on the
+eleventh day from the post, when the abundant display of furs I beheld
+gave assurance of being amply remunerated for my trip. There were
+eleven packs of beaver piled upon a scaffold, besides some others,
+amounting to at least 600l. sterling. My hospitable customer detained
+me two days with him to partake of his good cheer. After settling
+accounts with him, together with payment of the sum he owed, seven of
+the eleven packs were placed in my possession, with which I started on
+my return, as proud as if I had been advanced to a share in the
+Company.
+
+We arrived at the post after an absence of twenty-five days; and I
+was mortified to learn that my substitute had most stupidly bungled
+affairs. A number of Indians had come in during my absence who were
+considered our best friends, and entering our hut without noticing our
+opponent, threw down their bundles, thereby clearly indicating,
+according to the usual custom, their intention of trading with one
+party only. On the other hand, should they leave a bundle at the door,
+it shows that they intend to divide its contents between two parties.
+With these particulars the interpreter's experience rendered him
+perfectly well acquainted, but he "cau'd na be fasht."
+
+It is customary when the Indians arrive, to present each with a pipe,
+a plug of tobacco, and, though last, not least in their estimation, "a
+dram." The usual _politesse_ was expected as a matter of course on
+this occasion. Seeing it was not forthcoming, the Indians demanded it.
+They were answered that no instructions had been left to that effect.
+
+"Very well," said they, "we shall soon find it elsewhere." And away
+they went.
+
+Macdonell received them with open arms. His reception not only induced
+them to trade every skin they had brought with them, but they also
+invited him to their camp; and he consequently returned with his own
+and his men's sleds laden with furs.
+
+I learnt all these particulars from himself; for he and I were on as
+good terms as the nature of our occupation and our relative positions
+would admit. I was, moreover, made acquainted through him that the
+Indians had expressed regret at my absence, and that an immense
+quantity of "beaver" still remained at their camp.
+
+The spring was now fast approaching, the ice so bad as to render
+travelling dangerous, and but little snow on the ground. Still, I
+determined on paying a visit to these Indians, in order to retrieve
+the loss, if possible, sustained through the mismanagement of the
+interpreter. They might yet be in want of some supplies, poor fellows;
+and we were all so anxious they should want for nothing we could spare
+for their accommodation;--we, therefore, good, humane souls, supplied
+them even at the hazard of our lives.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+EXPEDITION TO THE BEAR'S DEN--PASSAGE THROUGH THE SWAMP--CUNNING OF
+THE INDIANS--A SCUFFLE--ITS RESULTS.
+
+
+I set off on this trip accompanied by another interpreter recently
+sent from Montreal, and one of my men, all with heavy burdens on our
+backs, the season not allowing the use of sledges. The second day we
+arrived at an Indian lodge about half-way to the Bear's Camp, where I
+learned that our opponent at the lower outpost had given our people
+the slip, but had been induced to return from the supposition that
+the extensive swamp in his way was impassable, being so inundated as
+to present the appearance of a lake. Urged on, however, by youthful
+ardour and ambition, I determined to make at least one attempt ere I
+relinquished the enterprise; although I acknowledge that the idea of
+overcoming difficulties deemed insurmountable by an opponent, had as
+much to do with the resolution as the desire of doing my duty.
+Followed by my men, I accordingly plunged in, along the margin of the
+marsh; the water reached our middle, but we found it to decrease in
+depth as we proceeded, though never below the knee. The water being
+very cold, our legs soon became quite benumbed; nevertheless we moved
+onward. A certain passage in history occurred to my mind, which
+records the perseverance of a great man in a like situation. I too
+persevered, though with a different object in view. We all have our
+hobbies. I waded for furs, he for glory. We occasionally met with
+large trunks of trees as we proceeded, on which we mounted, and
+restored the circulation to our limbs by stamping upon them; and thus,
+after five or six hours' painful exertion we reached dry land, where a
+rousing fire and a hearty breakfast made us soon forget the miseries
+of the swamp.
+
+We reached the old _bear's den_ next evening, who, with his party,
+expressed much surprise to see me at such a season, and in recompense
+for my exertions, "traded"[1] every article of goods I had.
+
+    [1] _Anglicè_,--bought.
+
+There were here seven Indians, who, notwithstanding the frequent
+visits that had been paid them, in the course of the winter, by the
+people of the lower posts, had still upwards of forty packs of beaver.
+I got one pack, with which I set off on my return, pleased enough.
+We found the water in the swamp so far subsided as to permit an easy
+passage; but the ice on the Grand River was so much worse that we were
+compelled to travel in the woods the greater part of the way.
+
+On arriving at the post, I found the opposition party in active
+preparation for their departure, Macdonell having received orders
+from his father to that effect. He embarked as soon as the navigation
+became practicable. Opponent as he was, I experienced some painful
+sensations at parting with him; but soon had the _consolation_ to see
+our opponent at the lower post occupy his place,--a measure which he
+ought to have adopted at a much earlier period, as even then it gave
+him a much better chance for a share of the spring trade than below,
+where he might be said to be placed between two fires. His removal,
+however, enabled us to concentrate our whole strength against him, so
+that he could not move a foot without a strong party at his heels.
+Thus circumstanced, he chose to await the arrival of the natives
+quietly at his post, and we were happy to follow his example.
+
+The spring passed in a happy state of quiescence, which was scarcely
+disturbed by the arrival of the Indians, who, this year, had all
+taken a fancy to visit their ghostly fathers at the Lake,[1] and had,
+consequently, no time to spend with us; some intending to get married,
+some having children to be baptized, and some carrying their dead, in
+order that the last sacred rites for the benefit of their departed
+spirits might be performed upon them. A few _têtes de boules_ remained
+for some time, but under so strict a surveillance that they could
+seldom communicate with our opponents without being observed, and the
+discovery subjected them to some chastisement.
+
+    [1] Of the Two Mountains.
+
+I shall here relate a circumstance that occurred at this time, as an
+example of the cunning of the Indians in devising plans to evade us.
+Soon after their arrival, an old squaw brought to our house several
+casseaux[1] of sugar, and pointing out one, which she said was left open
+for immediate consumption, said she would return for it presently. She
+came next day and took the casseaux down to the tent of the Algonquin
+chief, who had passed the spring close by, and was now building a
+canoe, preparatory to his departure for the Lake. Soon after I went
+to have a chat with the chief, and found only his squaw at home. I
+observed the casseau, and asked for what purpose it was brought there.
+"Mine hostess" smiled, and answered, "You ought to know everything
+about it, when it has just quitted your house and passed the night
+with you. You whites pretend to be very cunning," she continued, "but
+when an Indian, or even an old squaw tries to cheat you, your 'white'
+knowledge is no match for her. Now look into that casseau, Anamatik,[2]
+and see what is in it."
+
+    [1] Packages made of bark.
+
+    [2] My Indian cognomen.
+
+I looked, and found, instead of sugar, a very valuable bundle of furs.
+
+"What do you think of the sugar?"
+
+"Oh, it is very fine indeed; so much finer than any that I have, that
+I must take it along with me."
+
+"Your white neighbour will be angry with you, for it is left here for
+him."
+
+"Let him come to my house if he wants any."
+
+I set off with my prize, and as soon as it was deposited in a place of
+safety, took up a favourable position to watch my opponent, whom I
+soon perceived making for the tent with long and rapid strides. I
+could not help laughing heartily at the idea of his disappointment,
+when told what had happened. The "fair deceiver," to whom the bone of
+contention had belonged, soon made her appearance with downcast looks,
+humbly entreating payment for her furs, and I paid her the full
+amount, after lecturing her severely on the treachery of her conduct
+_in doing "what she willed with her own._"
+
+My opponent embarked on the 10th June, and I immediately followed him
+to the lower post, which he left in charge of one man, and then set
+off for Montreal. I kept him company as far as Fort Coulonge, where I
+met with a very friendly reception from my bourgeois,--the collected
+trade of the different posts having far exceeded his most sanguine
+expectations. He set out for Montreal with returns of the value
+of 5,000l. sterling, and left me in charge for the summer at Fort
+Coulonge, and Mr. Lane at the outpost. Only one family of Algonquins
+passed the summer inland,--the same miscreants that had nearly
+murdered the old woman at the Chats; a deed which I had neither
+forgotten, nor could divest myself of the feelings of indignation it
+had awakened in my breast.
+
+In the course of the summer, the interpreter of the post being in want
+of some paddles, employed this exemplary father to make them, and paid
+for them in rum. The quantity was so small, however, that it only had
+the effect of exciting their thirst, and they returned early in the
+night for more, which was peremptorily refused. The doors were bolted,
+and we retired to rest; but rest they were determined we should not
+have that night; and they continued knocking at the doors and windows,
+and bawling out at the top of their lungs, "Rum,--more rum!" until
+daylight next morning. I rose very early, in not the best humour
+possible, and taking the key of the store in my hand--I know not
+for what purpose--went out, and was followed by the Indian, still
+demanding more rum. I told him he should have none from me. "But I
+must have some." "Then you shall go elsewhere for it;" and without
+more ado, I turned him out, pushing him with some violence from the
+door. He fell on his face on the platform that ran in front of the
+building, and leaving him there to recover his footing at leisure, I
+returned towards the dwelling-house; but had scarcely reached the end
+of the platform, when the yell of defiance, "Hee-eep, hoo-aw!"
+resounded in my ears. I instantly wheeled round, and found myself face
+to face with the Indian. The old villain attempted to collar me, but,
+enraged to madness, I now grappled with him, and with all my might
+hurled him from the platform to the ground.
+
+I stood for a moment hesitating whether I should strike him while
+down, but had little time to deliberate,--the savage was again on his
+legs. He rushed towards a gun that stood against a fur-press hard
+by; I instantly comprehended his intention, and finding a stick at
+hand, in the twinkling of an eye, I struck him a blow that laid him
+senseless on the ground. Being scarcely aware of what I was doing, I
+was about to repeat the blow, when I found the uplifted weapon seized
+from behind. It was Primeau, my interpreter, who addressed me in a
+soothing tone, telling me I had already "done for" the Indian.
+
+This startling announcement restored me to reason. Was I indeed guilty
+of the blood of a fellow-creature? The thought chilled me with horror.
+I dashed the stick to the ground. It was instantly picked up by one of
+his three sons, whom the noise of the scuffle had now brought all up;
+brandishing it aloft, he aimed a blow at my head, which I parried with
+my arm, the limb dropping senseless to my side. My men, however, were
+now on the spot to defend me, and a fierce scuffle took place between
+them and the Indian's sons. Had they been the stronger party on this
+occasion, my fur-trading career would have terminated that morning.
+They, however, got a sound drubbing; while their wretched father, who
+had been the cause of the disturbance, lay unheeded and unconscious on
+the spot where he had fallen, not exhibiting the least sign of life.
+
+A place of temporary accommodation being prepared by his family, he
+was borne thither on a blanket, and I retired to my quarters in a
+state of mind not easy to be described. Soon after, the interpreter
+came in with a message from the Indians, entreating me to come and
+advise with them touching the manner in which they should dispose of
+their father's body. I went, and just as I stepped within the camp, to
+the astonishment of all present, the dead man sprang upon his feet.
+Seeing me at his side, he exclaimed, "You shall have cause to repent
+this!" The words were scarcely out of his mouth, when he sank down
+again, and for a period of six weeks after he remained as helpless as
+an infant. He was subsequently carried down to the Lake of Two
+Mountains, where he recovered from the effects of this castigation, to
+die, two years after, in a fit of drunkenness.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+PÈRE DUCHAMP--MR. S.'s INSTRUCTIONS--UNSUCCESSFUL--TRADING
+EXCURSION--DIFFICULTIES OF THE JOURNEY--LOSE OUR WAY--PROVISIONS
+FAIL--REACH THE POST--VISIT TO AN ALGONQUIN CHIEF--HIS ABUSIVE
+TREATMENT--SUCCESS.
+
+
+Mr. Siviright arrived about the latter end of August, accompanied by
+another junior clerk, and a few days afterwards the opposition were
+seen passing. I embarked with my fellow-scribe, and arrived next day
+at the lower outpost, when I was much disappointed to find my old
+interpreter, whom I had with me at the Chats, in the service of our
+opponents. He was my Indian tutor, and took every pains, not only to
+teach me the language, but to initiate me in the mysteries of the
+trade, in which he was justly considered an adept. Our opponents
+offered him a high salary, which he would not accept until he had
+previously made a tender of his valuable services to the Company, whom
+he had faithfully served for a period of thirty years and upwards. He
+requested a small addition to his salary, which was refused.
+
+My regard for the worthy old man, however, was not in the least
+diminished by the circumstance of his being in opposition. Père
+Duchamp and I had still our friendly _tête-à-tête_ whenever we had an
+opportunity. The autumn passed without any incident having occurred
+worthy of note, I and my opponent being occupied in the usual
+way,--watching each other night and day, chasing each other, and
+circumventing each other when we could.
+
+Late in the month of October, I was surprised to observe a couple of
+middle-sized canoes, deeply laden, put ashore at our opponent's, where
+the crews, five in number, passed the night. Next morning, as soon as
+they were gone, I called on my old friend, who happened to be alone at
+the time, to inquire about his visitors.
+
+He demurred for a little, and at length said: "For your sake, and
+to you only, would I disclose the secret of these people's object
+and destination. They called at Fort Coulonge yesterday, and gave
+themselves out for a party of hunters, bound for the Temiscamingue
+quarter;--they are a party of Iroquois, supplied with a valuable
+assortment of goods for trade, and their destination is Lac de la
+Vieille, in the very centre of the Algonquin hunting-grounds."
+
+This was a most important piece of intelligence: some of these Indians
+had been supplied at Fort Coulonge, some at my post, and all of them
+were deeply indebted at the Lake of Two Mountains. I passed the day
+in the anxious expectation of seeing Mr. S., or at least receiving
+instructions from him with reference to these people. No one coming, I
+resolved to proceed to Fort Coulonge, and communicate _viva voce_ the
+information I had received.
+
+Late in the evening, I embarked in a small canoe, with two men, and
+reached the Fort at early dawn; and rousing Mr. S. from his slumbers,
+I at once announced the object of my visit.
+
+"Well," said he, "this requires consideration: retire to rest, and I
+shall think about it."
+
+I retired accordingly, and slept till breakfast-time, when the subject
+was discussed; and his decision was, that I should send one of the two
+young men who were at my post in pursuit of the Iroquois, with
+instructions to follow them up, until the season should be so far
+advanced as merely to admit of his return by open water, unless the
+Iroquois pitched their tent before then.
+
+I volunteered myself to go after them with an outfit; but no; it would
+be dividing our forces, thereby allowing an advantage to our more
+formidable opponents; besides, we had not much to apprehend from the
+Iroquois with their trifling means. "_Très bien_," I said to myself,
+and set off on my return forthwith. I of course lost no time in
+executing the orders I had received. My bourgeois had his opinion of
+the matter, and I had mine; I knew that the Iroquois, when left to
+themselves, would make their own prices for their goods, and thus,
+even with the small outfit they had, fleece the Indians of the
+principal part of their furs.
+
+Among the Indians whom I had supplied, was an individual whose
+advances amounted to a heavy sum. I felt extremely anxious about him,
+and resolved to pay him a visit as soon as travelling was practicable;
+meantime, Swanston, who had been in pursuit of the Iroquois, returned
+from his disagreeable voyage on the 28th November, having learned
+nothing more than we already knew.
+
+I set off the next day, ostensibly on a visit to Mr. S., but really
+with the intention of starting from his post on my intended
+"derouine,"[1] arrived at Fort Coulonge among the drift ice, and on
+the 1st December started, accompanied by the interpreter Primeau and
+another man, all of us with heavy burdens on our backs. This proved
+the most toilsome trip I had yet undertaken; the smaller lakes only
+were passable on the ice, and the rivers were nearly all open. The
+difficulties we thus encountered necessarily retarded our progress,
+and occupied so much more time than we had calculated upon, that our
+provisions were nearly consumed by the time we reached the first
+Indian camp, where we expected to procure a guide to conduct us to the
+party we were in search of. We succeeded in hiring a young man, but we
+only obtained a small supply of flour, the Indians having no other
+kind of provision to spare.
+
+    [1] "Derouine,"--a trading visit to the Indians.
+
+Three days travelling brought us to the borders of the Indian's lands,
+where we soon discovered one of his early winter encampments; had we
+been a few days sooner we could have easily traced him from this spot,
+but the snow, which had recently fallen to a great depth, had nearly
+obliterated the marks he had left behind him.[1] My interpreter,
+accustomed to "tracking," followed the _scent_ for two days; our
+guide, discontented with the short allowance, gave no assistance, till
+coming to an extensive "brulé,"[2] he was completely _at fault_, as no
+marks of any kind could be discovered.
+
+    [1] When Indians remove in winter, in passing on rivers and
+    lakes, they stick, at intervals, in the snow, branches of
+    balsam, inclining in the direction they may have gone. In the
+    woods, small saplings are cut or broken down; if there is no
+    underwood, an occasional "blaze" serves as a sign-post to the
+    experienced woodsman.
+
+    [2] "Brulé," a part of the forest consumed by fire.
+
+Our situation was now extremely critical; we were reduced to one
+solitary meal of flour and water per diem, and but a few handfuls of
+this poor fare remained; to return by the way we came was out of the
+question, to proceed to the post was in truth our only alternative,
+and none of us was sufficiently acquainted with that part of the
+country to be sure of finding it; while the Indian, positively
+refusing to keep us company any longer, turned back, and left us to
+get out of our difficulties as we best could.
+
+The interpreter proposed that another attempt should be made to find
+the Indian's encampment, and volunteered to go alone; this proved the
+poor fellow's zeal, but he returned to our encampment next morning
+unsuccessful; we therefore resolved to go back, and, finding our way
+without much difficulty for a couple of days, we reached the upper end
+of a long portage leading to the Ottawa River, where we encamped late
+in the evening, and supped on the _hope_ of getting to the post next
+forenoon.
+
+We started early in the morning, the Canadian leading, and about noon
+fell on fresh snow-shoe tracks--the tracks, we supposed, of some of
+our people who had come to seek us; and feeling assured that our
+sufferings would terminate with the day, we pursued our route with
+renovated vigour and speed; when lo! our encampment of the preceding
+night came in view, the excitement of our minds having prevented us
+from discerning our mistake, as we might have done, sooner. The sun
+was still high, but the circumstance of the encampment being already
+prepared, induced us to put up there again for the night. It was a sad
+disappointment, and I felt it as such, though I affected a gaiety that
+was far from my heart; while with downcast looks and heavy hearts my
+poor fellows betook themselves to rest at a very early hour.
+
+Next morning we set off determined to be more cautious; the mistake of
+the previous day was ascribed to the sound of a high cascade at the
+head of the rapid, which we had mistaken for another considerably
+farther down; our Canadian still acted as guide--the blind leading
+the blind--and after two hours' walk we fell upon our own tracks
+again;--the poor fellow had yielded so completely to despair, that he
+walked about mechanically, scarcely knowing or caring whither he went;
+he was therefore ordered to the rear, and Primeau succeeded as leader.
+We saw nothing more of our tracks, but encamped in the evening with
+much the same prospects as before. I felt extremely weak, having
+carried Primeau's pack along with my own, as the old man could
+scarcely move when beating the track in the deep snow. Having a few
+fresh beaver skins, we cut off the thicker parts about the head and
+legs, and made a _bouillon_ of them, which we drank, and then turned
+in.
+
+In the morning it became a subject of serious debate what direction we
+should proceed in; the sky, however, having been clear the preceding
+evening, I observed the sun setting, and determined in my own mind the
+proper course; both my companions differed from me, but readily agreed
+to follow me. I therefore took the lead, and was so fortunate as
+to discover an old track, soon after leaving our encampment, which
+we followed until it brought us in sight of the Grand River--the
+long looked-for object of our fast failing hopes. Tears of joy burst
+from my eyes, as I beheld before me the wide expanse of the noble
+stream: although covered with ice and divested of the beauties of
+summer, it never appeared more lovely to me. We reached the post after
+night-fall; opening the door cautiously, I threw in my snow-shoes,
+then bolting in myself, was gratified with the sight of a table
+garnished with the best things the country afforded, which my two
+friends had prepared for their Christmas dinner; the sight, however,
+was all that prudence allowed us for the present to enjoy, our long
+abstinence rendering it necessary to confine ourselves, for a time, to
+a very weak diet.
+
+Next day I despatched a messenger to Fort Coulonge with the narrative
+of my adventures; and as soon as my strength was sufficiently
+recruited I set off again, accompanied by a _tête de boule_ as my
+guide, who led us direct to the camp of the Indian I had so long been
+in search of; where I had the mortification to learn, that on my first
+attempt I had returned from within a day's journey of him, and that
+if I had then succeeded in finding him, I should have secured the
+whole of the valuable hunts of him and his people, which were now
+in possession of the Iroquois traders. On my return to the post I
+communicated my sentiments freely to Mr. S. in writing, regarding the
+oversight that had led to consequences so injurious to the Company,
+and went afterwards, at his own request, to talk over the matter
+with him. It was now decided that I should go with a party of men to
+establish a post against them, i.e. to shut the stable-door after
+the steed was stolen. To accomplish this object supplies of every
+kind must be hauled on sledges by the men, at an enormous expense,
+and after all we could not furnish the means of competing with the
+Iroquois with any prospect of advantage. I however lost no time in
+executing the orders of my superior, and set off with as many men as
+could be spared for the purpose.
+
+On arriving at our destination, we built a temporary hut for our own
+accommodation, and a small store for the goods; but I soon discovered
+that the Iroquois had not only already secured all the Indians' furs,
+but had so completely ingratiated themselves with them that we were
+scarcely noticed. I remained two months in this wretched situation,
+and, as Mr. S.'s instructions left me in some measure to the exercise
+of my own judgment, I resolved on transferring the _honourable_ charge
+to persons less sanguine than myself, and returned to my post, where
+I knew my services could be turned to better account. In returning I
+happened to fall in with a small band of Indians, who had not yet been
+visited by the Iroquois, one of whom was the brother of the Algonquin
+chief, who had been so severely chastised the preceding winter. At
+his lodge I passed the night, and was not only treated with the usual
+Indian hospitality, but received a very pressing invitation to return
+with a supply of goods, which he promised to trade.
+
+Such invitations are never neglected. The moment I arrived at my post
+I laid aside the articles required by the Indians, and after one day's
+rest, started, myself and two men, carrying everything on our backs.
+It being late in the season, we encountered every possible difficulty
+on our way: the small streams overflowed, and the ice was so bad
+on the rivers as to preclude travelling on them. We were therefore
+under the necessity of taking to the woods, through a horridly rugged
+country, now ascending hills so steep that we could only scramble up
+their sides by holding on by the branches and underwood, the descent
+on the opposite side being equally difficult and laborious; now
+forcing our way through deep ravines overgrown with underwood, all but
+impervious; sinking to the ground at every step, and raising on our
+snow-shoes a load of half-melted snow, which strained the tendons of
+the legs and caused acute pain.
+
+Early in the morning of the sixth day we arrived at the camp, but, to
+our astonishment, neither heard the voice nor saw the form of a human
+being, though there were infallible signs that the camp was inhabited.
+It was the sugar season. I entered the great man's hut with a cautious
+step, and found every soul in it fast asleep. I marked with surprise
+the confusion that prevailed around,--sugar kettles upset, pots,
+pans, wearing apparel, blankets, and other articles, scattered about
+in every direction;--what could it mean? I awoke the chief, and
+the mystery was solved. He appeared to be just recovering from the
+effects of the night's debauch,--the Iroquois were in the camp. Mine
+host "grinned horribly a ghastly smile" as he placed himself, rather
+unsteadily, in a sitting posture in his bed, and in a hoarse tremulous
+voice bade me welcome, at the same time rousing his better-half, who
+appeared to be in the same _happy_ state as himself.
+
+A clatter ensued that soon set the whole household in motion, and I
+hastened to make the customary offering of a small keg of rum to the
+chief, and another of shrub to the squaw, who immediately ordered a
+young woman (the family drudge) to prepare my breakfast. Meanwhile the
+chief, along with two of his relatives, amused himself quaffing his
+nectar, which evidently began to have its usual effects, and from the
+expressions I overheard, I could gather that he had neither forgotten
+his brother's treatment last winter, nor forgiven me the part I had
+acted on the occasion. I listened with affected indifference for a
+time to the taunts he began to throw out, and at last, to get rid
+of them, went to visit the other huts, where I found the Iroquois
+preparing for their departure; they had several parcels of beaver,
+which they took no pains to conceal from me, but there was still much
+more remaining.
+
+After seeing them depart I returned to my chief, who received me
+with a volley of abuse, in which he was joined by his associates.
+The women, who were sober, observing by my looks that I was getting
+excited, requested me to withdraw. I did so, but was followed by the
+chief to the next hut, which I quitted immediately; I found myself
+still pursued by the same insufferable insolence. My philosophy being
+unequal to so severe a trial, I turned upon my tormentor, and seizing
+him by the throat, dashed him to the ground, and left him there
+speechless. I then made for a hut a short distance apart from the
+others, belonging to a _tête de boule_, where I remained in quietness
+for about the space of fifteen minutes; when suddenly my Canadian came
+rushing into the hut, his countenance betraying the utmost alarm, and
+staring me wildly in the face, he stammered out, "Les sauvages! les
+sauvages, monsieur, prennent leurs armes! Sauvons-nous! Sauvons-nous!"
+The Iroquois, coming in the next instant, confirmed his report; but I
+had, in fact, been flying the whole morning, and thought it now high
+time to take my stand. My Iroquois appearing quite calm, I told him I
+was determined not to stir from the spot, and asked if he would remain
+with me.
+
+"I came here for that purpose," said he, "and shall stand by you to
+the last."
+
+Our _tête de boule_ had two guns, which he loaded; Sabourin had his,
+which he promised to use in his own defence: thus prepared, we awaited
+the expected attack. The remainder of the day, however, passed without
+molestation, and after night-fall, I sent out my trusty Iroquois to
+reconnoitre; he soon returned with the welcome intelligence that the
+Indians had all retired to rest. We did the same.
+
+Next morning I went to the chief's lodge, and found him perfectly
+sober; I saluted him according to custom, which he returned with a
+scowl, repeating my words in a contemptuous manner; this exasperated
+my yet excited feelings to the highest degree. I felt assured that
+the fellow had invited me on purpose to insult me, if not for a worse
+purpose; and, addressing him in language that plainly bespoke my
+feelings, I immediately ordered my men to prepare for our departure.
+He remained silent for a moment, and then whispered in his wife's ear;
+she turned round to me, smiling, and asked if I had not brought the
+goods, my men were packing up, to trade?
+
+"Yes," I replied.
+
+"Then," said she, "you must not be in such a hurry to go away."
+
+The husband now spoke to me in a conciliatory tone, begging me to
+place all that had happened to the account of the "fire-water," and
+for heaven's sake not to acquaint his father with his conduct.
+
+This I readily assented to; we entered upon business, and nearly all
+the goods I had were exchanged for their full value in beaver. We
+found the travelling much better on our return, the small streams
+having subsided, and the snow so much diminished, that we could walk
+without snow-shoes.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+SUCCESS OF THE IROQUOIS TRADERS--APPOINTED TO THE CHARGE OF THE
+CHATS--CANADIAN DISPUTES POSSESSION--BIVOUAC WITHOUT A FIRE--RUSE TO
+BAFFLE MY OPPONENTS--ROMAN CATHOLIC BIGOTRY.
+
+
+The Iroquois passed early in spring with eighteen Indian packs in
+their canoes,--each pack might be estimated at 60l.,--our other
+opponent started for Montreal about the same time as last year, and
+I was ordered down to Fort Coulonge to take Mr. S.'s place for the
+summer. He returned from Montreal about the end of August, and I was
+much gratified to learn from him that I had been again appointed to
+the charge of the Chats, so that all the merit or demerit of good or
+bad management would now be entirely my own. A few days after, a
+middle-sized canoe arrived, manned by three Canadians, with whom I
+embarked for the scene of my first essay as an Indian trader.
+
+On arriving at the post, I was surprised to find an old Canadian and
+his _cara sposa_ in possession,--a circumstance of which I had had no
+previous intimation. This worthy pair seemed determined to maintain
+their position in defiance of me; and not wishing to employ violent
+means to dispossess them if it could possibly be done otherwise, I
+passed the night in the hall. Having, however, obtained possession of
+the outworks, I was determined to carry the citadel; and, summoning
+the contumacious occupants into my presence next morning, I demanded,
+in a peremptory tone, the immediate surrender of the keys.
+
+"Show me your authority," said he.
+
+"If I do not show it, you shall feel it presently!"
+
+Seeing that I ordered my men to put my threat into execution, Jean
+Baptiste assumed a more humble attitude, and requested me, as a
+favour, to permit him to remain in the kitchen until he could find a
+passage to Montreal;--with this request I willingly complied.
+
+My old opponent had still a post in this district, and I was directed
+to send a party in opposition to him; which being done, I remained
+quiet until the winter communication became practicable, when I
+determined on paying a visit to my friends in the Fort Coulonge
+district. The distance being short, and my object having no connexion
+with the Company's interests, I set off on my pleasure jaunt alone.
+I put up the first night at a sort of tavern just then opened by an
+American at the upper end of the Chats' Lake, the only habitation at
+that time in the quarter, whence I started at early dawn, expecting
+to reach Fort Coulonge before night. The lumbermen having commenced
+sledging their winter supplies, the road formed by these vehicles
+presented a hard, smooth surface, on which I made good speed, as I had
+nothing to encumber me, save my blanket and tomahawk.
+
+Arriving at a long bend of the river about 2 P.M., I put on my
+snow-shoes to cut across the point and meet the road again, flattering
+myself that I should thus shorten the distance some two or three
+miles. The weather being mild, and the sun overcast, I was as much at
+a loss to find my way in the woods as if I had been blindfolded; I
+nevertheless continued my onward course, and again came on the road. I
+proceeded in high spirits for a considerable time, when I perceived a
+man before me going in the same direction with myself; quickening my
+pace I soon came up with him, and asked him if he was bound for the
+Fort?
+
+"I guess I don't know of any fort in this part of the world," said he.
+
+"What! not know of Fort Coulonge, and you so near to it? are you not
+going there?"
+
+"I have heard of such a place," said Jonathan; "but I'd take a
+tarnation long time to get to it, I calculate, if I followed my nose
+as it points now."
+
+I told him who I was, whither bound, and where I slept last night.
+
+"I guess then you had better sleep there again, for it is not quite
+three miles off."
+
+This was the result of making a short cut, and I resolved to follow
+the long and sure road in future.
+
+A shanty that had been recently occupied, afforded me comfortable
+lodgings for the night, and I arrived at Fort Coulonge about noon
+next day, where I passed the night, and started for the outpost.
+Here I remained two days, and would have remained still longer, had
+it not been discovered one morning that our opponents were off in
+the direction of my outpost on the Bonne Chere. As the Indians in
+that quarter were excellent hunters, and owed me much, I deemed it
+advisable to follow them; my friends, too, sent an interpreter and
+three men along with me, for the purpose of trading what they could on
+account of their own post--_chacun pour soi_ being the order of the
+day.
+
+We soon overtook our opponents, and I resolved, if possible, to give
+them the slip by the way. Accordingly, when within a day's journey of
+the establishment, I pretended to have sprained my foot so badly, that
+I walked with the greatest seeming difficulty. My men, who were aware
+of the ruse, requested me to place my bundle on their sledges, to
+enable me to keep up with them. This farce commenced in the evening.
+Next morning my leg was worse than ever, until we came on the river at
+about ten miles' distance from the post. I was delighted to find but
+little snow upon the ice, so that I had a fair opportunity of putting
+the metal of my legs to the test, and the opposition party having
+sledges heavily laden, I walked hard, my foot on a sudden becoming
+perfectly sound, in order to tire them as much as possible before I
+bolted. Having apparently effected my purpose, I set off at the top of
+my speed, and never looked behind me until I had cleared the first
+long reach, when turning round, I saw a man in pursuit about half-way
+across; I started again, and saw no more of my pursuer.
+
+On arriving at the post I was gratified to learn that the Indians,
+whom I was so anxious about, had been in a few days previously, while
+our opponents were off in another direction; so that they had been
+seen by none save our own people. Finding two men at home, I proceeded
+with them to the Indian camp, and arrived at dawn of day. I met with a
+very friendly reception, and had the good fortune to prevail upon the
+Indians to deliver me their furs upon the spot, which formed a very
+heavy load for both myself and men. We met our opponents in returning;
+but though they had ocular proof of my success, they nevertheless went
+on to the camp.
+
+Having arrived at the post, I found some Indians there all
+intoxicated; I was also mortified to find the person in charge in the
+same state. I immediately displaced him, and made over the charge,
+_pro tempore_, to one of the men. The conduct of my worthless deputy
+hurt me so much that I could not remain another night under the same
+roof with him. I therefore set off on my return to the Chats, although
+already late in the afternoon, expecting to reach the first shanty in
+the early part of the night.
+
+The Bonne Chere river is very rapid in the upper part, and does not
+"set fast"[1] until late in the season, unless the cold be very intense.
+I arrived at this part soon after night-fall, and perceiving by the
+clear light of the moon the dangers in my way, I deemed it imprudent
+to proceed farther; and having nothing to strike fire with, I cut a
+few branches of balsam and strewed them under the spreading boughs of
+a large cedar, and wrapping myself up in my blanket, lay down. The
+weather being mild, I thought I could sleep comfortably without fire;
+but was mistaken. When I awoke from my first sleep, which must have
+been sound, I found my limbs stiff with cold, while my teeth chattered
+violently in my head. To remain in this condition till daylight was
+almost certain death; I resolved, therefore, at all hazards to find my
+way to the shanty, which might be about ten miles distant. The light
+of the moon being very bright, enabled me to avoid the openings in the
+ice, and by moving on cautiously, about three o'clock in the morning I
+reached the shanty; which belonged to a warm-hearted son of Erin, who
+received me with the characteristic hospitality of his countrymen,
+placing before me the best his cabin afforded, and with his own
+blankets and those of his men making up a comfortable bed, on which I
+slept till late in the day, and next night in my own bed.
+
+    [1] Freeze.
+
+As the greater part of my customers wintered in the vicinity of the
+outpost, and I had no longer any confidence in the person in charge
+there, I resolved on passing the remainder of the winter at it myself;
+I therefore requested that a person should be sent up from the Lake of
+Two Mountains to take care of the establishment during my absence. On
+the arrival of this person, I proceeded to the outpost, but shall pass
+over the transactions that occurred there, being similar in all
+respects to those already narrated. One circumstance, however,
+occurred, which, though not in my vocation, I think worthy of notice.
+
+Two itinerant missionaries called at the Lake of Two Mountains and
+distributed a number of religious tracts among the natives, together
+with a few copies of the Gospel according to St. John, in the Indian
+language. My Algonquin interpreter happened to get one of the latter,
+and took much pleasure in reading it. Towards the latter end of the
+season I received a packet from my superior at the Lake, and, to my
+surprise, found in it a letter with the seal of the Church affixed,
+addressed to my interpreter, which I put into his hands, and observed
+him perusing very attentively. Soon after he called me aside, and told
+me that the letter in question conveyed a peremptory command from the
+priest to destroy the bad book he had in his possession, or else his
+child that died in autumn would be denied the rites of Christian
+sepulture.
+
+We are told that the age of bigotry is past: facts like this prove the
+contrary. I asked him if he intended to obey the commands of his
+ghostly father. "Not exactly," said he; "I shall send the book to him,
+and let him do with it what he pleases; for my part, I have read it
+over and over again, and find it all good, very good; why the 'black
+coat' should call it bad is a mystery to me."
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+JOURNEY TO MONTREAL--APPOINTMENT TO LAC DE SABLE--ADVANTAGES OF THIS
+POST--ITS DIFFICULTIES--GOVERNOR'S FLATTERING LETTER--RETURN FROM
+MONTREAL--LOST IN THE WOOD--SUFFERINGS--ESCAPE.
+
+
+Early in spring I returned to the Chats, and after the close of
+the trade took my departure for Montreal, having finished my
+apprenticeship. I renewed my contract for three years, and was
+appointed to the charge of Lac de Sable, a post situated on a
+tributary of the Ottawa, called _Rivière aux Lièvres_, two hundred
+miles distant from Montreal.
+
+I embarked on the 15th August, 1826, and arrived at the post on
+the 1st September; where I was gratified to find a comfortable
+dwelling-house, and a large farm with pigs, poultry, and cattle in
+abundance. All this was very well, but there was also a powerful
+opposition, and I had experience enough to know that the enjoyment of
+any kind of comfort is incompatible with the life we lead in
+opposition.
+
+The difficulties of my situation, moreover, were from various
+causes extremely perplexing. The old North-West agents, acting for
+the Hudson's Bay Company in Canada, had declared a bankruptcy the
+preceding winter; the principal manager having quitted the country
+rather precipitately, as was supposed, and forgotten to appoint a
+successor; the management devolved in consequence upon the head
+accountant, Mr. C----e, who, however well he might be qualified
+for the duties of the situation, felt the responsibility of acting
+without authority to be too great, and confined himself accordingly
+to such measures only as he was confident would subject him to no
+inconvenience when the day of reckoning arrived. Meantime the business
+of this department sustained a serious check; the old hands of the
+post, having been tampered with by the opposition in the course
+of last winter, quitted the service to a man, and I now found the
+establishment to consist of a clerk, interpreter, and one man only.
+I was given to understand that three men additional would join me as
+soon as they could, and that I must not expect any more; thus our
+number would be seven against twenty-two.
+
+A disparity so vast precluded all hopes of maintaining the contest
+with advantage to the Company or credit to myself. Fortune, however,
+declared in our favour; dissensions arose in the ranks of our
+opponents, clerks and men deserted, supplies for trade ran short, and
+from being the weaker party we were now the stronger.
+
+Governor Simpson having taken up his residence at La Chine in autumn,
+men and goods were furnished in abundance, and the petty traders were
+made to see, ere the winter passed, the futility of entering the lists
+in competition with a Company possessing so vast resources.
+
+Mr. MacD----l having wintered two years at this post, and being
+consequently well acquainted with the natives, I entrusted the
+direction of affairs against the opposition entirely to him, and
+remained quietly at home, having only the few Indians that wintered in
+the neighbourhood of the post to attend to; my situation, however, was
+often far from agreeable, being frequently reduced to the company of
+my pigs and poultry for weeks together, and obliged to act as trader,
+cook, hewer of wood, and drawer of water.
+
+In the course of the winter I was favoured with a visit from Mr.
+F----r, to whose district this post had just been annexed, and had the
+gratification to receive, through him, a letter from Governor Simpson,
+conveying, in very flattering terms, his approbation of my conduct.
+I was told that I was in the direct road to preferment--that my
+merits should be represented to the Council on his arrival in the
+interior--and that he should be happy to have an opportunity of
+recommending me to the Governor and Committee, when he returned to
+England. We shall see, in the sequel, how these promises were
+fulfilled.
+
+I embarked, on the 15th June, 1827, for Montreal, and found Mr.
+K----h, a chief factor in the service, at the head of affairs; and my
+outfit being prepared in a few days, I re-embarked, taking my passage,
+as formerly, on board of a large canoe, deeply laden. The last rapid
+and portage on the Rivière aux Lièvres is within eight miles of the
+establishment, and generally takes the men a day to pass it. Arriving
+at this place late in the evening, I resolved on going on a-foot;
+it being fine moonlight, I felt confident of finding my way without
+difficulty. The weather having been immoderately hot for some time
+past, I had sat in the canoe divested of my upper garments, and
+thought I might, without inconvenience, dispense with them now, as I
+expected to reach the house ere the night air could prove injurious to
+me.
+
+Setting off, therefore, in "light marching order," I immediately
+gained the high grounds, in order to keep clear of the underwood that
+covers the banks of the river; and just as the moon appeared above the
+surrounding hills, arrived on the banks of a small stream, where I
+observed a portage path sunk deep in the ground, a circumstance which
+proved it to be much frequented--by whom or for what purpose I could
+not say, for I had seldom passed the limits of my farm during last
+winter, and was nearly as ignorant of the topography of the environs
+as the first day I arrived. I had not heard of the existence of a
+river in the quarter, nor did I imagine there was any; the conclusion
+I arrived at therefore was, that I had lost my way, and that my most
+eligible course was, to endeavour to find the main stream, and by
+following it, retrace my course to the portage.
+
+I soon fell on the river, but my retrograde march proved exceedingly
+toilsome; at every step I was obliged to bend the branches of the
+underwood to one side and another, or pressing them down under my
+feet, force my way through by main strength: some short spaces indeed
+intervened, that admitted of an easier passage; still my progress was
+so slow that the sun appeared before I reached the upper end of the
+portage. Finding an old canoe here, belonging to the post, I resolved
+on crossing to the opposite side of the river, where I knew there was
+a path that led to the house, by which the Indians often passed when
+travelling in small canoes. I accordingly ran to the lower end of the
+portage for a paddle, where I found my men still asleep; and having
+heard that the lower end of this path came out exactly opposite to the
+upper end of the portage, I struck out into the woods the moment I
+landed, fancying that I could not fail to discover it.
+
+The sun got higher and higher as I proceeded, and I went faster and
+yet faster, to no purpose;--no path appeared; and I at length became
+convinced that I was lost--being equally in difficulty to find my way
+back to the river as forward to the post.
+
+The weather was very sultry; and such had been the drought of the
+season that all the small creeks were dried up, so that I could
+nowhere procure a drop of water to moisten my parched lips. The
+sensations occasioned by thirst are so much more painful than those we
+feel from hunger, that although I had eaten but little the preceding
+day, and nothing on that day, I never thought of food. While my inner
+man was thus tortured by thirst, my outer man scarcely suffered less
+from another cause. The country through which I passed being of a
+marshy nature, I was incessantly tormented by the venomous flies that
+abound in such situations,--my shirt, and only other habiliment,
+having sustained so much damage in my nocturnal expedition, that the
+insects had free access _partout_.[1]
+
+
+    [1] There are three different kinds of these tormenting
+    insects, viz. the mosquito, the black-fly, and the gnat--the
+    latter the same as the midge in N. Britain--who relieve each
+    other regularly in the work of torture. The mosquitoes
+    continue at their post from dawn to eight or nine o'clock,
+    A.M.; the black-flies succeed, and remain in the field till
+    near sunset; the mosquitoes again mount guard till dark, and
+    are finally succeeded by the gnats, who continue their watch
+    and incessant attacks till near sunrise.
+
+I came to the foot of a high hill about two o'clock P.M., which I
+ascended, and got a very good view of the surrounding country from its
+summit; hills and lakes appeared in every direction; but the sight
+of these objects only served to impress my mind with the conviction,
+that, unless Providence should direct my steps to the establishment,
+the game was up with me. Having descended, I sauntered about the
+remainder of the day, my ideas becoming more and more bewildered,
+and my strength declining; and passed the night sometimes sitting,
+sometimes standing, sometimes moving about;--but sitting, standing, or
+moving about, subjected to the same tortures.
+
+I endeavoured during the night to compose my mind as much as possible;
+some happy thought might perchance suggest itself, which might lead to
+my deliverance. Nor were my efforts without some success: I called to
+mind the position of the post with respect to the rising and setting
+sun; another circumstance of importance also recurred to me.
+
+A Canadian hunter, who received his supplies at my post, had told me
+that such Indians as did not wish to pay their debts at the post,
+frequently passed unperceived by a chain of small lakes that ran
+parallel to the river, and extended from Lac de Sable to somewhere
+near the rapid, whence I had taken my departure. I recollected, too,
+his having mentioned that some Indian families occasionally made sugar
+on the borders of these lakes, and that a good path lay from their
+camp to the post. Having passed the night in a deep valley, the sun
+did not appear until late in the morning, when I shaped my course,
+to the best of my judgment, for the post. Two or three hours' walk
+brought me to the foot of a high hill, nearly destitute of wood on one
+side; and expecting that some discovery might be made from the top
+which might be of use to me, I resolved on attempting the ascent--an
+undertaking of no small difficulty in my enfeebled state. I succeeded
+in gaining the top, and to my unspeakable joy, perceived a chain of
+lakes within about two miles of me, exactly corresponding to the
+description given me by the Canadian hunter. I also heard the reports
+of guns, but so indistinctly that I could not determine the direction
+the report came from. Noting with the utmost care the course that
+would lead me to the lakes, I descended the steep declivity with a
+degree of speed that surprised myself,--such is the powerful influence
+the mind exercises over the body.
+
+I expected an hour's walk would bring me to the lakes, but the sun
+being in the zenith, and my way lying through a dense forest of pine,
+I could not keep a straight course. I proceeded onward, however, as
+well as _reason_ could direct me, and most willingly would I have
+exchanged a little of that _faculty_ for the _instinct_ that leads the
+brute creation with unerring certainty through the pathless depths of
+the forest.
+
+The sun was rapidly declining, and my hopes with it, when suddenly I
+fancied I heard the murmuring sound of running water. Could it be
+really so? What a delightful feast I should have! for I had passed the
+day, like the preceding, without a drop of water to allay my raging
+thirst. I listened; the sound became more distinct--it was no
+illusion. I quickened my pace, and soon came upon a charming rivulet,
+flowing rapidly over a bed of white pebbles, its water clear as
+crystal. I rushed into the midst of it, and fervently thanking the
+Giver of all good, threw myself on my knees, and drank draught
+after draught till my thirst was quenched. I felt refreshed to an
+extraordinary degree, and concluding that the stream would lead me
+to the river, or to some lake communicating with it, I followed its
+course, wading in the water that there might be "no mistake," and soon
+came out on the border of a small lake, where I had the additional
+satisfaction of hearing the report of guns so distinctly as to
+convince me that the party firing them could be at no great distance.
+I walked round the lake, and at its far end fell on a portage path
+that soon conducted me to another lake. This, then, must be the chain
+of lakes I was in search of! I was transported at the thought.
+
+But an incident soon occurred that served to damp at once my spirits
+and my person: a distant peal of thunder was heard; peal after peal
+succeeded; the heavens were obscured, and heavy drops of rain, the
+harbingers of an approaching storm, fell from the dark clouds. I
+strained every nerve to reach the firing party ere the storm should
+burst upon me. I reached the foot of the hill, but the firing had
+ceased. I nevertheless ascended as quickly as my wearied limbs would
+carry me, but on reaching the spot found no one there.
+
+The storm now burst upon me in all its fury. Flash followed flash in
+quick succession, and the rain fell in torrents, which, however, as
+the few clothes that still adhered to my person were already saturated
+by the previous rain, caused me but little additional inconvenience.
+I descended to the lake, and by the time I reached the far end of it
+the darkness had increased so much, that I could proceed no farther.
+Perceiving an old encampment--a few half-decayed branches of balsam,
+at the foot of a large hemlock--I took up my quarters there for the
+night. The tufted branches of this tree render it a much more secure
+retreat in a thunder-storm than the pine, whose pointed branches and
+spiral shaped top frequently attract the electric fluid.
+
+Towards morning the storm seemed to have expended its fury; and,
+strange to say, in the midst of it I enjoyed two or three hours'
+sleep. Nature had been so exhausted by protracted sufferings, that
+(though the flies were driven to their covert) I believe I could have
+slept upon a bed of thorns, covered with gnats and mosquitoes. As soon
+as it was sufficiently clear to enable me to find my way, I quitted
+my hemlock and fell on the portage path, which soon led me to another
+small lake, and which I proceeded to circumambulate as usual, keeping
+a sharp look-out for the path that led to the post; when suddenly the
+report of a gun burst from an adjoining hill. At the same instant, I
+observed a net pole standing in the water at the bottom of a small
+bay close by, and directed my steps towards it; when on approaching
+it I discovered a broad path ascending from the water's edge, and
+immediately after the buildings of a sugar camp.
+
+Allowing the party on the hill to blaze away, I followed the
+path, and in less than half-an-hour came out upon the Rivière aux
+Lièvres, immediately opposite the house. I perceived the men of the
+establishment, with some Indians, all in a bustle; some preparing to
+embark in a canoe, others firing. I sat down to gaze for a moment on
+the most interesting scene I had ever witnessed, and then gave a loud
+cry, which it was evident nobody heard, although the river is not more
+than a stone-cast across. I made a second effort with better success.
+The Indians raised a shout of triumph; the men hallooed,
+
+"Le voilà! le voilà! Je le vois! Je le vois à l'autre bord! Embarquez!
+embarquez!"
+
+A few minutes more, and I found myself restored to at best a prolonged
+life of misery and exile. Let it not be inferred from this expression
+that I felt ungrateful for my deliverance; on the contrary, my escape
+from a death so lingering and terrible made a deep impression upon my
+mind. I afterwards gave a holiday to my men in remembrance of it, and
+made them all happy for one day.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+NARROWLY ESCAPE DROWNING--ACCIDENT TO INDIAN GUIDE--AM NEARLY FROZEN
+TO DEATH--MISUNDERSTANDING BETWEEN ALGONQUINS AND IROQUOIS--MASSACRE
+AT HANNAH BAY.
+
+
+Nothing occurred this year out of the usual routine, save an accident
+that happened to myself, and had nearly proved fatal. A couple of
+hounds had been presented to me by a friend, for the purpose of
+hunting the deer that abounded in the neighbourhood. The dogs having
+one day broken loose from the leash, betook themselves to the hills;
+and the first intimation we had of their being at liberty, was the
+sound of their voices in full cry on an adjacent hill. I instantly
+seized my gun, and following a beaten track that led to a small lake
+at the base of the hill, I perceived a deer swimming towards an island
+in the middle of the lake, and only a little beyond the range of
+gun-shot. An old fishing-canoe happening to be at hand, I immediately
+launched it, and gave chase, without examining the condition it was
+in. I proceeded but a short distance, however, when I perceived that
+it leaked very much. I continued, nevertheless, to paddle, till I got
+nearly half-way across to the island; but by this time the quantity of
+water in the canoe had increased so much, that my ardour for the chase
+began to give way to anxiety for my own safety. I perceived a large
+hole in the stern of the canoe, now almost level with the surface of
+the lake, through which the water gushed with every stroke of the
+paddle. The fore-part appearing free from injury, I immediately
+inverted my position,--a movement necessarily effected with much
+difficulty in so small a craft; and having thus placed myself, the
+stern was consequently raised a little higher. I then paddled gently
+towards a long point projecting from the mainland, much nearer me than
+the island; and although I used the utmost caution in paddling, the
+canoe sunk under me some distance from the shore. The lake, however,
+was fortunately shallow at this place, so that I soon found bottom.
+Had there been the least ripple on the water, I could not have
+escaped; but the weather was perfectly calm, and the lake smooth as
+glass.
+
+In the early part of next winter, I went again in pursuit of the
+deer; and although I incurred no great risk of losing my life, I yet
+experienced such inconveniences as seldom fall to the lot of amateur
+hunters in other parts of the world. I left the house early in the
+morning, and, starting a deer close by, gave chase, following the
+track over hill and dale, until I reached a high ridge bordering on
+Lac de Sable. Here the deer slackened his pace, and appeared, by his
+track, to have descended slowly into a valley, where he remained until
+I started him a second time. I still continued the pursuit, without
+thinking of time or distance from the establishment. At length the
+night evidently began to close, and I felt faint and exhausted from
+want of food, and the exertions I had made during the day. I therefore
+gave up the chase; but to retrace my steps by the devious path by
+which I had pursued the deer, would have occupied the greater part of
+the night; I therefore resolved on returning by a more direct course;
+but the upshot was, that, after wandering about for some time, and
+repeatedly falling on my own tracks, I passed the night in the woods.
+Although nearly overcome with fatigue, I durst not think of lying
+down, well knowing what the consequence would be; I therefore walked
+backwards and forwards, on a beaten track, the whole night; and next
+morning adopted the sure course of finding my way by my tracks of the
+preceding day. Meeting an Indian by the way, who had been sent in
+search of me, he led me by a short cut, and we arrived at the house
+about two o'clock, P.M.
+
+In the autumn of 1829, another opponent entered the lists against
+us,--an enterprising Canadian, who had been for a long time in the
+Company's service. This adventurer proceeded some distance inland,
+and I need scarcely say that a party was sent to keep him company.
+Understanding that the new competitor gave our people more trouble
+than had been anticipated, I determined on taking an active part in
+the game; and as I had only two men with me at Lac de Sable, whose
+services were required there, I set off alone, intending to take with
+me an Indian who had an encampment by the way, as I was unacquainted
+with the route. I slept at the Indian's wigwam, who readily
+accompanied me next morning; but the weather being intolerably cold,
+the poor fellow got both his ears frozen, _et aliud quidquam
+præterea_, in crossing a large lake not far from his camp. The moment
+he perceived his mishap, he assailed me in the most abusive terms, and
+swore that he would accompany me no farther; which, being conscious
+that I was partly the cause of his misfortune, I bore with as much
+equanimity as I could; and arriving at the opposite side of the lake,
+we kindled a fire, and I proceeded to treat his case according to the
+usual practice; that is, rubbing the part affected with snow, or
+bathing it with cold water until it is thawed, and the circulation
+restored. Having happily succeeded, I forthwith dismissed him, and
+determined to find my way alone; and having a tolerable idea of the
+direction in which I should go, and the weather being clear, I
+entertained no doubt of falling somewhere on the river whereon the
+post is situated. I came upon it, as it seemed to me, a considerable
+distance below the establishment, just as the sun was setting.
+
+Having travelled in deep snow the whole day, I felt so much fatigued
+that I could scarcely exert myself sufficiently to keep my body warm,
+the cold being intense. I walked as briskly as my diminished strength
+would allow; but at length became so weak, that I was obliged to lay
+myself down at short intervals. In this wretched state,--my limbs
+benumbed with cold, and thinking I should never see daylight,--I
+suddenly came upon a hard beaten path: this inspired me with new
+vigour, as it indicated the close vicinity of a shanty. I soon
+discovered the desired haven, and crawling up the steep bank that led
+to it, I knocked at the door with my snow-shoes, and was immediately
+admitted.
+
+The noise I made roused the inmates, who had been sound asleep; and
+who, seeing my helpless condition, exerted themselves in every
+possible way to relieve me. I was nearly in the last stage of
+exhaustion, being unable to take off my snow-shoes, or even articulate
+a word. One of these noble woodsmen guided me next day to the post;
+when, as a small mark of gratitude for his generous kindness, I
+presented him and his companions with what is always acceptable to a
+shanty-man, a liberal allowance of the "crathur," to enjoy themselves
+withal.
+
+If it be asked why I did not make a fire, when I had the necessary
+apparatus; I answer, that I had but a very small axe, quite unfit for
+felling so large timber as grew on the banks of this river; and I was,
+besides, so benumbed and exhausted as to be unequal to the task even
+of lighting a fire.
+
+Sometime after my return from Montreal in the autumn of 1830, I went
+to pay a visit to one of my customers whose lands were at a
+considerable distance. I was accompanied by one man in a small canoe;
+and as it was necessary that one of us should carry the canoe over the
+portages, and the other the property, I chose the former, being the
+lightest though by far the most inconvenient load. I found it very
+oppressive at first, but use rendered it more easy. This was the first
+time I carried a canoe.
+
+On our return from the Indian's camp we met with rather a disagreeable
+accident, while ascending a small and very rapid river. In pushing
+forward the canoe against the stream, my pole happened to glance off a
+stone, and the canoe swinging round came in contact with the trunk of
+a tree projecting from the bank, and we, or at least I, was upset in
+an instant. Fortunately the current, though strong, was smooth and
+free from whirlpools; so that, after swimming down a short distance
+in search of a landing-place, I rejoined my companion, whom I found
+standing on the bank perfectly dry. On inquiring of him how he
+happened to avoid a ducking, he told me he sprang ashore while I was
+attempting to parry off the tree; doubtless his having done so was in
+a great measure the cause of the accident. He, however, acted a very
+prudent part after landing, having caught hold of the canoe in the act
+of upsetting, and thus preserved the goods from being lost or damaged.
+
+In the course of this year, the Iroquois and Algonquins were nearly
+coming to blows on account of the hunting-grounds. This quarrel
+originated from a speech which Colonel McKay, then at the head of the
+Indian department, had addressed to the Iroquois, in which, making use
+of the metaphorical language of the people, he observed that Indians
+of all tribes ought to live together in the utmost concord and amity,
+seeing they inhabited the same villages, "and ate out of the same
+dish." This the Iroquois interpreted in a way more suitable to their
+own wishes than consistent with its real meaning. "Our father," said
+they, "tells us we eat out of the same dish with the Algonquins;--he
+means that we have an equal right to the hunting-grounds." They
+proceeded, accordingly, to avail themselves of the supposed privilege.
+The consequence was a very violent quarrel, in which Government was
+ultimately obliged to interfere.
+
+The Indians informed us, this spring, of a dreadful murder that had
+been committed in the early part of the winter by some of the natives
+of Hudson's Bay. The particulars of this tale of blood I since learned
+from an individual that escaped from the massacre. The Indians
+attached to the posts established along the shores of Hudson's Bay are
+comparatively civilized; most of them speak English, and are employed
+as voyageurs by the Company. Few or no precautions are taken at these
+posts to guard against treachery; the gates are seldom shut, and some
+of the posts are destitute of palisades or defence of any kind. Of
+this description was the post where the catastrophe occurred which I
+am about to relate.
+
+The post of Hannah Bay is situated about sixty miles to the north
+of Moose Factory, and was at this time under the charge of a Mr.
+Corrigal. His establishment consisted of two or three half-breeds, and
+an Indian who had been brought up by the whites. He and some of the
+men had families. In the course of the winter five Indians came in
+with their "hunts," and agreeably to their usual practice encamped
+close by. Those Indians are designated "Home Guards,"--a term
+generally applied to the Indians attached to a trading post; they hunt
+in winter at a convenient distance from the post, and are employed in
+summer as voyageurs, or in performing any other necessary duty.
+Notwithstanding their thus being frequently in company with white men
+and Christians, they still retain many of the barbarous habits, and
+much of the superstitious belief of their forefathers, aggravated, I
+regret to say, by some of the vices of the whites.
+
+Among the number of those just mentioned was an individual who had
+acquired considerable influence among his tribe, from his pretending
+to be skilled in the art of divination. This man told his fellows that
+he had had a communication from the Great Spirit, who assured him that
+he would become the greatest man in Hudson's Bay if he only followed
+the course prescribed to him, which was, first, to cut off their own
+trading post, and then with the spoil got there to hire other Indians,
+who should assist in destroying all the other posts the Company
+possessed in the country. Accordingly, it was determined to carry
+their design into execution, whenever a favourable opportunity
+occurred. This was not long in presenting itself. They came one day to
+the establishment, and told the people that the "man of medicine" had
+come for the purpose of performing some extraordinary feat that would
+astonish them all. The silly creatures believed the story, and went to
+the borders of the lake, where they observed the sorcerer showing off
+a variety of antics very much to their amusement. The conspirators,
+seeing this part of the stratagem succeed, rushed into the house, and
+immediately despatched Mr. Corrigal and his family. The men, hearing
+the report of the guns, hastened back towards the house. The two that
+first arrived were saluted by a volley of balls; the one fell dead,
+the other fled. The third, seeing what had happened, seized his
+youngest child, and also fled. The murderers pursued. The poor fellow,
+encumbered by the weight of his child, necessarily fell behind. A ball
+from the pursuers killed the child, and wounded him in the hand.
+Dropping, then, the lifeless body, he soon came up with his fellow,
+and both escaped without further injury.
+
+It was about noon when they began their flight. One of them reached
+Moose Factory next day about noon, the other soon after. The
+distance--nearly sixty miles--travelled in so short a space of time,
+may appear incredible; but fear gave them wings, they fled for their
+lives and never halted. One of them, my informant, lost all the toes
+of one of his feet by the frost.
+
+Measures were immediately adopted to frustrate the further diabolical
+designs of the Indians, as well as to avenge the innocent blood that
+had been shed. Messengers were despatched with all possible haste to
+Rupert's house, the nearest post, to give the alarm, and a party of
+men, under an efficient leader, was sent to seize the murderers. This
+expedition, however, proved unsuccessful, as the Indians could not be
+found in that direction; but, in the meantime, two of them who had
+come to Rupert's house to "spy the land," were seized and sent bound
+to Moose Factory, and one of them was compelled to act as guide to
+another party. Led by him, they approached the camp without being
+perceived, and found the "man of medicine" sitting very composedly in
+his tent, surrounded by the spoils he had taken from the fort. He was
+secured, and the rest of his associates, who were absent hunting, were
+soon "tracked," and secured likewise. They then all underwent the
+punishment they deserved.
+
+The fort presented a horrible spectacle. Men, women, and children
+shared the same fate, and the mangled limbs of their victims were
+scattered among the articles of property which the wretches, not being
+able to carry off with them, had attempted to destroy.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV.
+
+FALL THROUGH THE ICE--DANGEROUS ADVENTURE AT A RAPID--OPPONENTS GIVE
+IN--ORDERED TO LA CHINE--TREATMENT ON MY ARRIVAL--MANNERS, HABITS,
+AND SUPERSTITIONS OF THE INDIANS--FEROCIOUS REVENGE OF A SUPPOSED
+INJURY--DIFFERENT METHODS OF THE ROMAN CATHOLIC AND PROTESTANT
+MISSIONARY--INDIAN COUNCILS--TRADITION OF THE FLOOD--BEAVER-HUNTING--
+LANGUAGE.
+
+
+Finding that my presence was more wanted at the outpost than
+elsewhere, I resolved on taking up my residence there for the winter
+1831-32. Our active opponent gave us much annoyance, causing great
+expense to the Company, without any benefit to himself; on the
+contrary, it ultimately ruined him.
+
+While accompanying our party on a trading excursion in the beginning
+of winter, I had a very narrow escape. We were travelling on the
+Gatineau, a very rapid stream that joins the Ottawa, a little below
+Hull. A young lad, interpreter to the opposition, and I, had one
+morning gone considerably in advance of the others, walking smartly
+to keep ourselves warm, when I suddenly broke through the ice. The
+current here running strong, I should soon have been swept under the
+ice, had I not, by extending my arms upon it on either side of me,
+kept my head above water. At the hazard of his own life, my companion
+came to my assistance; but the ice was too weak to admit of his
+approaching sufficiently near to reach me his hand; he therefore cut a
+long pole, and tying his belt to it, threw it to me; and laying hold
+of it, I dragged myself on the sound ice. But the danger was not yet
+over; the weather was intensely cold, so that my clothes were soon
+frozen solid upon me, and having no means of lighting a fire, I ran
+into the woods; and in order to keep my body from being frozen into
+the same mass with my clothes, continued running up and down with all
+my might, till the rest of the party arrived.
+
+
+I had a still more narrow escape in the month of March ensuing. I had
+been on a visit to the post under my own immediate charge, termed
+head-quarters _par excellence_; returning to the post alone, I came to
+a place where our men, in order to avoid a long detour occasioned by a
+high and steep hill coming close to the river, were accustomed to draw
+their sledges upon the ice along the edge of a rapid. About the middle
+of the rapid, where the torrent is fiercest, the banks of the river
+are formed of rocks rising almost perpendicularly from the water's
+edge; and here they had to pass on a narrow ledge of ice, between the
+rock on the one side, and the foaming and boiling surge on the other.
+The ledge, at no time very broad, was now reduced, by the falling in
+of the water, to a strip of ice of about eighteen inches, or little
+more, adhering to the rock. The ice, however, seemed perfectly solid,
+and I made no doubt that, with caution, I should succeed in passing
+safely this formidable strait.
+
+The weather having been very mild in the fore-part of the day, my
+shoes and socks had been saturated with wet, but were now frozen hard
+by the cold of the approaching night. Overlooking this circumstance,
+I attempted the dangerous passage; and had proceeded about halfway,
+when my foot slipped, and I suddenly found myself resting with one hip
+on the border of ice, while the rest of my body overhung the rapid
+rushing fearfully underneath. I was now literally in a state of
+agonizing suspense: to regain my footing was impossible; even the
+attempt to move might precipitate me into the rapid.
+
+My first thought indeed was to throw myself in, and endeavour by
+swimming to reach the solid ice that bridged the river a short
+distance below; a glance at the torrent convinced me that this was a
+measure too desperate to be attempted;--I should have been dashed
+against the ice, or hurried beneath it by the current. But my time was
+not yet come. Within a few feet of the spot where I was thus suspended
+_in sublimis_, the rock projected a little outward, so as to break
+the force of the current. It struck me that a new border of ice
+might be formed at this place, under and parallel to that on which
+I was perched; exploring cautiously, therefore, with a stick which
+I fortunately had in my hand, all along and beneath me, I found my
+conjecture well founded; but whether the ice were strong enough
+to bear me, I could not ascertain. But it was my only hope of
+deliverance; letting myself down therefore gently, I planted my feet
+on the lower ledge, and clinging with the tenacity of a shell-fish to
+the upper, I crept slowly along till I reached land.
+
+This autumn, I had the satisfaction of seeing all my opponents quit
+the field, some of whom had maintained a long and obstinate struggle;
+yet, although I had reason to congratulate myself on their departure,
+as it promised me relief from the painfully toilsome life I had led,
+I must do one of the parties, at least, the justice to say, that, in
+different circumstances, I should have beheld their departure with
+regret. Dey and McGillivray carried on the contest longer than the
+others, and did so without showing any of that rancorous feeling which
+the other petty traders manifested towards the Company. MacGillivray
+and myself, when travelling together, often shared the same blanket,
+and the same kettle; and found, that while this friendly feeling was
+mutually advantageous to ourselves, it did not in any way compromise
+the interests of our employers. I parted from him, wishing him every
+success in _any other_ line of business he might engage in.
+
+After the removal of my competitors, I found the time to hang heavily
+on my hands; and the ease I had so often sighed for, I now could
+scarcely endure; but I was not allowed long time to sigh for a change.
+On the 5th of April an Iroquois came up from Montreal with a packet
+conveying orders to me to proceed forthwith to Lachine, whence I
+should embark by the opening of the navigation for the northern
+department. I was alone at the post when these unexpected orders came
+to hand, all the men being absent at the outpost; and as it behoved me
+to use the utmost diligence in order to get away ere winter travelling
+should break up, leaving an old squaw in charge, I set out for the
+outpost in quest of Mr. Cameron, who was appointed my successor; and
+on the 7th of April took my departure.
+
+On arriving at the Grand River, I found travelling on the ice to
+be attended with great danger, and several accidents had already
+happened; but I had the good fortune to reach Grenville at the head
+of the Long Sault in safety; here, however, my farther progress was
+arrested for a fortnight, the roads being impassable. I arrived at
+Lachine in the end of April, and after handing in the documents
+relative to my late charge, Mr. K---- toldme I was at liberty to spend
+the intervening time until the embarkation, where and how I pleased.
+Gratified by this indulgence, I was about to frame a speech expressive
+of my gratitude, when he continued,--"for, Sir, you are to understand
+we do not keep a boarding-house here." This stopped my mouth, and I
+reserved my thanks for a future occasion; for I could not but feel,
+that being an officer of the Company, it was robbing me of a part of
+my pay under the pretext of an indulgence. Availing myself, however,
+of this ungenerous grant of freedom, I spent some halcyon days in the
+company of relatives most dear to me, and expected no interruption to
+my enjoyment until the time appointed for the embarkation: but a few
+days after I had joined my relatives in the vicinity of Montreal, I
+received a letter, commanding me, in the most peremptory manner, to
+repair to Lachine,--"circumstances not foreseen at my arrival from the
+interior required my departure without further delay." I accompanied
+the bearer of Mr. K----'s letter, and found, on arriving at Lachine,
+that I had been appointed to conduct some of Captain Back's party, who
+proved rather troublesome to him at Montreal, to the Chats, and there
+to await my passage to the north by the Brigade.
+
+I had now served the Hudson's Bay Company faithfully and zealously
+for a period of twelve years, leading a life of hardship and toil,
+of which no idea can be formed except by those whose hard lot it may
+be to know it by experience. How enthusiastically I had laboured for
+them, may be better gathered from the foregoing narrative than from
+any statement I could here make. And what was my reward? I had no
+sooner succeeded in freeing my district from opposition, than I was
+ordered to resign my situation to another, who would enjoy the fruits
+of my labour:--when I arrived at the Company's head-quarters to take
+my departure for a remote district, I was ordered to provide for
+myself until I embarked; and when enjoying myself in the bosom of my
+family, to suit the convenience of one of their correspondents, I was
+torn away from them prematurely, and without warning,--treatment,
+which caused one of them so severe a shock as nearly to prove fatal!
+
+Before I take leave of the Montreal department, it may be well to
+allude more particularly to the manners and customs of the natives.
+The mode of life the Algonquins lead, while at their village, has been
+already touched upon; within these few years a great change has taken
+place, not in their morals, but in their circumstances. The southern
+and western parts of their hunting-grounds are now nearly all
+possessed by the white man, whose encroachments extend farther and
+farther every year. Beaver meadows are now to be found in place of
+beaver dams; and rivers are crossed on bridges formed by the hand of
+man, where the labours of the beaver afforded a passage for the roving
+Indian and hunter only a few years before.
+
+Happy change, it may be said; but so say not the Indians; the days
+of happiness are gone for them, at least for those of the present
+generation; though I have no doubt that their posterity may, in course
+of time, become reconciled to, and adopt those habits of life which
+their altered circumstances may require. A few have done so already,
+but many of them still remain on the most remote parts of their lauds,
+having no longer the means of enjoying themselves at their village, or
+of satisfying the avarice of priests and traders. Here they pursue,
+without restraint or interruption, the mode of life most congenial to
+their habits.
+
+I have already observed, that I could discover but little difference
+between the (so called) Christian Indians, and their unbaptized
+countrymen, when beyond the surveillance of their priests. They
+practise all the superstitious rites of their forefathers, and place
+implicit confidence in the power of magic, although they admit that
+the same results cannot be obtained now, as formerly, in consequence,
+as they say, "of the Cross having come in contact with the Medicine."
+They have their genii of lakes, rivers, mountains, and forests, to
+whom they offer sacrifice. I was present at the sacrifice of a
+beaver, made by an Algonquin to his familiar, or "totem," in order
+to propitiate him, because he had been unsuccessful in hunting.
+The beaver was roasted without being skinned, the fur only being
+appropriated to the spirit, whilst the flesh afforded a luxurious
+feast to the sacrificer; and in this part of the ceremony I willingly
+participated.
+
+When any of them is taken ill, the indisposition is ascribed to the
+effects of "bad medicine;" and the person is mentioned whom they
+suspect of having laid the disease upon them. Many violent deeds are
+committed to revenge these supposed injuries. An Algonquin, who had
+lost a child, blamed a _tête de boule_, who was domiciled at Lac de
+Sable, for his death. The ensuing spring the _tête de boule_ took a
+fancy to visit the Lake of Two Mountains, and set off in company with
+the Algonquins.
+
+On arrival of the party at the Grand River, he who had lost his child
+invited the _tête de boule_ to his tent, and entertained him in the
+most friendly manner for a time, then suddenly drawing his knife, he
+plunged it into the side of his unsuspecting guest. The poor wretch
+fled, and concealed himself in a pig-sty, where his groans soon
+discovered him to the Algonquin, who, again seizing him, thrust his
+knife into his throat, and did not withdraw it until he ceased to
+live.
+
+"Now," exclaimed his murderer, "I am avenged for the death of my
+child. You wanted to go to the Lake to be baptized, and here I have
+baptized you in your own blood."
+
+Many other instances might be adduced to prove that the savage
+disposition of these Indians has not been greatly ameliorated by their
+profession of Christianity; they have, in fact, all the vices with but
+few of the virtues of their heathen countrymen.
+
+They are immoderately fond of ardent spirits, men, women and--shocking
+to say--children. This hateful vice, which contributes more than any
+other to the debasement of human nature, seems to produce more baneful
+effects upon the Indian, both physically and morally, than upon the
+European. The worst propensities of his nature are excited by it.
+While under the influence of this demon he spares neither friend nor
+foe; and in many instances the members of his own family become the
+victims either of his fury or his lust.
+
+The crime of incest is by no means unknown among them; rum, the
+greatest scourge and curse of the Indian race, is undoubtedly the
+principal cause of this dreadful corruption: but is it not strange
+that religion should have so little effect in reforming their manners?
+The Mississagays, the neighbours of the Algonquins, who speak the same
+language, were only converted a few years ago by the Methodists, and
+from being the most dissipated and depraved of Indians, are now become
+sober, industrious and devout.
+
+It seems, therefore, impossible even for the most unprejudiced to
+avoid the conclusion that the difference in manners must in a great
+measure be ascribed to the different methods adopted by the Roman
+Catholic and Protestant missionaries in converting the natives. The
+Roman Catholic convert is first baptized, then instructed in the forms
+of worship, taught to repeat Pater nosters and Ave Marias, to make the
+sign of the cross, and to confess. He is now a member of the Church,
+and is dismissed to his woods--a Christian, can we say? The Methodists
+pursue a different course. Their converts must not only reform their
+lives, but give indubitable proofs that they are reformed; they
+are taught so as to understand thoroughly the sound principles of
+Christianity; and they must give an account of their faith, and a
+reason for the hope that is in them, before they are admitted as
+members of the Christian community. "The tree is known by its fruits."
+
+The Sachems, or chiefs of the Algonquins, possess little or no
+authority, but their advice is of some weight There are gradations of
+rank in the chieftainship; the Kitchi Okima, or great chief, takes
+precedence at the Council, and propounds the subject of discussion;
+the inferior chiefs (Okimas) speak in turn, according to seniority;
+every old man, however, whether chief or not, is allowed to give his
+opinion, and the general voice of the assembly decides the question at
+issue. It is seldom, however, that any question arises requiring much
+deliberation in the present times of peace. When a party of strange
+Indians arrives at the village, a council is called to ascertain the
+means the community may possess of discharging properly the rites of
+hospitality; each individual states the modicum he is willing to
+contribute, in cash or in kind, and the proceeds, which are always
+sufficient to entertain the guests sumptuously, according to Indian
+ideas, while they remain, are placed at the disposal of the Kitchi
+Okima.
+
+Councils are held and harangues delivered when they receive their
+annual presents from Government; these consist of blankets, cloth,
+ammunition, and a variety of small articles, all of which in their
+present impoverished state are highly valued by them. They profess an
+attachment to the British Government; but, like certain more civilized
+nations, they will fight for the cause that is likely to yield them
+most advantage. Their loyalty to Britain, therefore, is less to be
+depended on than their hatred to America. A general idea has gone
+abroad regarding their taciturnity which does not accord with my
+experience. Far from being averse to colloquial intercourse, they
+delight in it; none more welcome to an Indian wigwam than one who
+can talk freely. They pass the winter evenings in relating their
+adventures, hunting being their usual theme, or in telling stories;
+and often have I heard the woods resound with peals of laughter
+excited by their wit, for they too are witty in their own way.
+
+Their tradition of the flood (_kitchi a tesoka_, or "great tale,") is
+somewhat remarkable. The world having been overflowed by water, all
+mankind perished but one family, who embarked in a large canoe, taking
+a variety of animals along with them. The canoe floated about for some
+time, when a musk-rat, tired of its confinement, jumped overboard and
+dived; it soon reappeared, with a mouthful of mud, which it deposited
+on the surface of the water, and from this beginning the new world was
+formed.
+
+When the veracity of an Indian is doubted, he points to heaven with
+his forefinger, and exclaims:--
+
+"He to whom we belong knows that what I say is true."
+
+No white man trusts more firmly in the validity of a solemn oath than
+the Indian in this asseveration. Still it must be confessed that they
+are prone to falsehood; but they seem to allow themselves a much
+greater licence in this respect in their intercourse with the whites
+than amongst themselves.
+
+When an Indian is about to enter a wigwam, he utters the word or sound
+"Quay" in a peculiar tone; the word repeated from within is considered
+as an invitation to enter. Should he neglect to announce himself
+in this way he is considered as ill-bred--an unmannerly boor. The
+left-hand side of the wigwam as you enter is considered the place
+of honour; here the father of the family and chief squaw take their
+station, the young men on the opposite side, and the women next to the
+door, or at the upper end of the fire-place, both ends being alike
+plebeian. When a person of respectability enters, the father, moving
+towards the door, resigns his place to his guest, places skins under
+him, and otherwise pays every attention to his comfort. They are
+extremely hospitable, and cheerfully share their last morsel with the
+stranger who may be in want. Hospitality, however, is a virtue which
+civilization rarely improves.
+
+A good hunter always leaves his lodge by dawn of day, and seldom
+tastes food till he returns late at night. Hunting beavers is a most
+laborious occupation, and becomes more so in proportion to the
+scarcity of these animals; for this reason, that when a great number
+of beavers occupy a lake, their places of retreat are in closer
+proximity to each other, and for the most part inhabited; if the
+number be reduced, it is likely they will have the same places of
+retreat, and the hunter must bore through the ice, before he can
+ascertain whether they are inhabited or not.
+
+The sagacity of their dogs is truly surprising. The beaver house being
+first destroyed by the hunter, the dogs are urged by a peculiar call
+to scent out their retreats, which they never fail to do, whatever
+may be the thickness of the ice. They keep running about the borders
+of the lake, their noses close to the ground, and the moment they
+discover a retreat, begin to bark and jump on the ice; the hunter then
+cuts a hole with his trench, and with a stick which he carries along
+with him feels for the beaver; should he find one, he introduces his
+bare arm into the hole, and seizing his prey by the tail, drags it out
+on the ice, where it is dispatched with a spear. There is less danger
+in this operation than one would imagine, for the beaver allows itself
+to be seized without a struggle, but sometimes inflicts severe wounds
+on his captor after he is taken out of the water.
+
+When the retreat is not inhabited, the entrance to it is barred by
+sticks, and the hunter proceeds to chisel again, and continues his
+operations until the beaver is either taken, or shut out from all his
+haunts, in which case he is compelled to return to the house to take
+breath, where he is either shot or caught in a trap.
+
+The language of these Indians is a dialect of the Sauteux or Bungee,
+intermixed with Cree, and a few words of French derivation. The
+greater part of them have a smattering of French or English; but the
+acquisition of a foreign language is extremely difficult to them,
+from the peculiar formation of their own, which wants the letter r.
+An Algonquin pronounces the word "marrow" "manno" or "mallo." Their
+dialect has all the softness of the Italian, but is extremely poor and
+defective.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XV.
+
+EMBARK FOR THE INTERIOR--MODE OF TRAVELLING BY CANOES--LITTLE
+RIVER--LAKE NIPISSING--FRENCH RIVER--OLD STATION OF INDIAN
+ROBBERS--FORT MISSISSAGA--INDIANS--LIGHT CANOE-MEN--SAULT STE.
+MARIE--LAKE SUPERIOR--CANOE-MEN DESERT--RE-TAKEN--FORT WILLIAM--M.
+THIBAUD--LAC LA PLUIE AND RIVER--INDIANS--WHITE RIVER--NARROW
+ESCAPE--CONVERSATION WITH AN INDIAN ABOUT BAPTISM.
+
+
+On the 25th April, 1833, I embarked on board of a steamboat at
+Lachine, and reached Hull on the 27th. Here the regular conveyance by
+land carriages and steamboat ended, and the traveller in those days
+was obliged to wait his passage by the canoes of shanty men, or hire a
+boat or canoe for himself. I had recourse to the latter expedient, and
+reached the post of the Chats, then in charge of my esteemed friend
+Mr. McD----l, on the 30th. Captain Back arrived on the 1st of May,
+put ashore for a few supplies and my wards, and immediately
+re-embarked.
+
+The brigade arrived on the 2d, and the guide delivered me a letter
+from Mr. K----, informing me that I was to consider myself merely as
+a passenger, the command of the men being entrusted to the guide by
+Governor Simpson's orders. This arrangement relieved me of much
+anxiety and trouble; though I would rather have preferred undergoing
+any personal inconvenience to being placed under the command of an
+ignorant Canadian, who might use his "brief" authority in a way very
+offensive to my feelings, without being guilty of anything that I
+could complain of.
+
+My fears, however, were disappointed, as he showed every deference to
+my wishes, as well as the utmost courtesy to the other passengers,
+most of whom were of a rank not likely to find much consideration from
+a Canadian boatman; they consisted of a young priest not yet ordained,
+an apprentice clerk, three youths who had been at their education in
+Lower Canada, and myself.
+
+The brigade consisted of three Montreal canoes, laden with provisions
+for the trip, and some tobacco for the southern department; and manned
+by sixty Iroquois and Canadians, the latter engaged to winter, the
+former for the trip.
+
+The day was far spent when we left the portage of the Chats, and we
+encamped in the evening near the head of the rapids. The mode of
+travelling in canoes being now well known, I shall not detail the
+occurrences of each day, but confine myself to the narration of such
+incidents as may be most worthy of notice throughout the voyage. The
+moment we landed the tent was pitched by men employed for the purpose;
+the other men unloaded the canoes, and carried the goods beyond
+high-water mark, where it was piled and covered with oil-cloths.
+
+It is the particular duty of the bowsman to attend to the canoe, to
+repair and pitch it when necessary, and to place it in security when
+the cargo is discharged. In consideration of these services he is
+exempt from the duty of loading or unloading, his wages are higher
+than those of the steersman, and he ranks after the guide. The latter
+generally messes with the gentlemen, his canoe always takes the lead
+in the rapids, but in still water the post of honour is held by the
+best going canoe. The guide rouses the men in the morning; the moment
+the call is heard, "Lève, lève!" the passengers spring upon their
+feet, tie up their beds, and if they are not smart about it, the tents
+go down about their ears, and they must finish the operation in the
+open air.
+
+Several of our men having already deserted, we encamped upon islands,
+when they could be found, or kept watch on the mainland. Our hour
+of departure was three o'clock, A.M.; when the weather permitted we
+breakfasted at seven, dined at one or two o'clock, P.M., and encamped
+at sunset. In calm weather the canoes went abreast, singing in chorus
+and keeping time with the paddles. All was then gaiety, and, to
+appearance, happiness; but this is one of those bright spots in a
+voyageur's life which are few and far between.
+
+We reached Fort Coulonge on the 3d, and it being late, I took up my
+quarters with my worthy old bourgeois, Mr. S. Here we received some
+additional supplies of provisions for the crews and passengers. We
+arrived at Lac des Allumettes on the 5th, where I put ashore merely to
+say _bon jour_ to an old acquaintance. We encamped rather early this
+evening, to allow the men a little extra rest, on account of the
+laborious duty they had performed for some days before. Next day,
+when ascending the rapid of Roche Capitaine, the canoe in which I
+was passenger came in violent contact with another; but mine only
+sustained damage. The bow being stove in, the canoe began to fill; we
+however gained the shore, to which fortunately we were close, at a
+leap, and lost no time in discharging the cargo. Drying the goods and
+repairing the canoe occupied us a good part of the day.
+
+We reached the Forks of Mattawin on the 8th, where we found a small
+outpost belonging to the Fort Coulonge district, recently established
+for the purpose of securing the hunts of the Indians of this quarter,
+who were in the habit of trading with shanty men. Being no longer
+under any apprehensions of the men deserting, we now discontinued the
+watch and slept in comfort.
+
+The passage of the Little River was effected with much toil and
+difficulty, from the shallowness of the water. We entered Lake
+Nipissing on the 10th; descended French River, a rapid and dangerous
+stream, without accident, and entered Lake Huron on the morning of the
+12th. The guide pointed out to me a place near the mouth of the river
+where the Indians used to waylay the canoes on their passage to and
+from the interior; a sort of rude breastwork still marks the spot.
+After much destruction of life and property by the savages, they
+were eventually caught in their own toil; the voyageurs, instead
+of descending the river at this place, passed by land, and coming
+unawares on the Indians killed them all.
+
+We reached the post of the Cloche early on the 13th, and spent two
+hours in the company of Mr. McB----u, who entertained us most kindly;
+and on the 14th looked in at Mississaga post, an establishment which
+appeared to possess but few attractions as a place of residence;
+consisting of a few miserable log buildings, surrounded by a number
+of pine-bark wigwams, the temporary residence of the natives; several
+of whom came reeling into the house after our arrival, there being an
+opposition party there.
+
+These Indians were, without comparison, the most uncouth,
+savage-looking beings I ever beheld; mouth from ear to ear,
+cheek-bones remarkably high, low projecting forehead, hair like a
+horse's mane, and eyes red and swollen by continual intoxication.
+American whisky had no doubt contributed to increase their natural
+deformity.
+
+After leaving this post we had a strong breeze of adverse wind for the
+remainder of the day, and encamped in consequence earlier than usual.
+On the following morning we were very early roused from our slumbers
+by the call of "Canot à lège," (light canoe). Our beds were tied up,
+tents packed, canoes launched and loaded in an instant; and we set off
+in pursuit of the mail, which we overtook at breakfast time, and found
+Mr. G. K----th in charge, who had just returned from England, and
+was now proceeding to assume the charge of Lake Superior district.
+Mr. K----th exchanged some of his men, who were found incapable of
+performing light canoe duty, for some of our best; an arrangement that
+did not appear to please our guide much.
+
+The duty which the crew of a light canoe have to perform is laborious
+in the extreme, and requires men of the greatest strength and vigour
+to stand it. They are never allowed to remain more than four hours
+ashore by night, often only two or three; during the day they are
+constantly urged on by the guide or person in command, and never cease
+paddling, unless during the few moments required to exchange seats, or
+while they take their hasty meals ashore. They are liberally plied
+with grog, well paid, and well fed, and seldom quit the service until
+it is hinted to them that the duty is become too hard for them. A
+light canoe-man considers it quite a degradation to be employed in
+loaded craft.
+
+We arrived early on the 16th at the Company's establishment at Sault
+Sainte Marie, where there is a large depôt of provisions for the
+purpose of supplying the canoes passing to and from the interior and
+the surrounding districts. The south side of the river is occupied by
+the Americans as a military post, and it was gratifying to see the
+friendly intercourse that subsisted between the American officers and
+the gentlemen in the Company's service. Would that the same good
+feeling were more universal between two nations of one blood and the
+same language!
+
+The rapid which unites the waters of Lakes Huron and Superior is
+avoided by making a portage. The carrying of the canoes and goods
+to the upper end of this portage occupied the men till about noon,
+when we embarked on the "Sea of Canada," having Messrs. Bethune and
+McKenzie on board as passengers. We proceeded about fifteen miles and
+encamped. We were ready to embark at the usual hour next morning, but
+being prevented by the high wind, to make the best of the time we
+turned in again, and after a most refreshing nap got up to breakfast.
+
+The weather moderating soon after, all hands were ordered to embark,
+but all hands were not there; four of them had deserted during the
+night, and were not missed until the crews mustered for embarkation.
+
+While we were holding a consultation regarding this unpleasant matter,
+an Indian canoe luckily cast up, and it was determined to despatch a
+party of Iroquois, conducted by a passenger in disguise, in pursuit of
+the fugitives. Another party was sent by land, and after an absence
+of about three hours returned with their prisoners. No criminals ever
+appeared more dejected than they; so humble did they seem, that they
+got off with a slight reprimand.
+
+We reached the post of Michipikoton early on the morning of the 19th,
+and passed the remainder of the day waiting for despatches which Mr.
+K---- was preparing for the interior. We left on the 20th, put ashore
+at the Pic on the 23d, where we dined with Mr. McMurray, and after
+experiencing much bad weather, adverse winds, together with showers of
+snow, we reached Fort William on the 28th, about noon.
+
+We found the grand depôt of the North-West Company falling rapidly
+to decay, presenting in its present ruinous state but a shadow of
+departed greatness. It is now occupied as a petty post, a few Indians
+and two or three old voyageurs being the sole representatives of
+the crowded throngs of former times. It must have been a beautiful
+establishment in its days of prosperity; but the buildings certainly
+do not appear to have been erected with a view to durability. We
+here exchanged our large Montreal canoes for those of the North,
+(the former carrying seventy packages of ninety pounds, the latter
+twenty-five, exclusive of provisions;) and each of the passengers had
+a canoe for his own accommodation--an arrangement that seemed to
+increase in no small degree the self-importance of some of our number.
+Our guide was now obliged to perform the duty of bowsman, still,
+however, retaining his authority over the whole brigade.
+
+We bade adieu to Fort William and its hospitable commander on the
+29th. Mr. McI----h had supplied all our wants most liberally, but
+the men were now allowed only Indian corn and a small quantity of
+grease;--a sad and unpleasing change for poor Jean Baptiste; but he
+had no help but to submit, though not perhaps with the utmost
+"Christian resignation."
+
+Our men being now well disciplined, and our canoes comparatively
+light, we sped over our way at an excellent rate. We encamped on the
+4th of June at one of the Thousand Lakes, and the canoes were drawn
+up before M. Thibaud (the priest) arrived. I was surprised to observe
+his frowning aspect on landing, and ascribed it to the circumstance of
+his being the "harse," or harrow, a term of derision applied to the
+slowest canoe. Calling me aside, however, he explained the cause of
+his discontent, which was very different from what I had surmised:
+his crew, whenever they found themselves sufficiently far in the rear
+to be out of hearing, invariably struck up an obscene song, alike
+unmindful of his presence and remonstrances; and this day had not only
+sung, but indulged in conversation the most indecent imaginable. This
+announcement appeared to me the more strange, that most of these young
+men had never before quitted home; and I had always understood the
+authority of the priest to be, at least, equal to that of the parent.
+Although, therefore, I never had any very great reverence for the
+(so-called) successors of St. Peter, I yet felt for my fellow-traveller,
+and addressed the miscreants who had insulted him in terms of grave
+reprehension, threatening them with severe punishment if such conduct
+should again be repeated.
+
+We arrived at the post of Lac de la Pluie, on the 8th of June; and,
+after a short halt, and carrying our _impedimenta_ across the portage
+on which the fort is situated, commenced the descent of Lac de la
+Pluie river,--a beautiful stream, running with a smooth, though strong
+current, and maintaining a medium breadth of about 200 yards. Its
+banks, which are clothed with verdure to the water's edge, recede by a
+gradual slope until they terminate in a high ridge, running parallel
+to the river on both sides. This ridge yields poplar, birch, and
+maple, with a few pines, proving the excellence of the soil. The
+interior, however, is said to be low and swampy.
+
+We passed the residence of an old retired servant of the Company, on
+the 9th, who, if I may judge from the appearance of his farm and the
+number of his cattle, must vegetate very much at his ease.
+
+Observing in the evening a large Indian camp, I requested the guide
+to put ashore for a little. We were received kindly, but in a manner
+quite different to what I had been accustomed. The young men were
+drawn up on the shore, and eyed us with a savage _fierté_ in their
+looks, returning our salutation in a way that convinced us that we
+were at length among the "wild men of the woods." The weather being
+extremely hot, we found them in almost a complete state of nudity,
+with only a narrow shred of cloth around their loins. They speak
+the Sauteux language; and I had much difficulty in making myself
+understood by them. In their physiognomy and personal appearance they
+exhibit all the characteristic features of the genuine aboriginal
+race; and this party certainly appeared, one and all, to be "without a
+cross;" but there had been long a trading post at Lac la Pluie, and I
+noticed, in a neighbouring camp, a lass with brown hair and pretty
+blue eyes. Where did she get them? After bartering some sturgeon with
+the Indians, and presenting them with a little tobacco, we parted good
+friends, and encamped so near them as to be annoyed the whole night by
+the sound of their drum.
+
+On the following morning we entered the Lake of the Woods, and next
+morning White River, a very violent stream, full of falls and
+dangerous rapids. The portages are innumerable, and often close
+together. After crossing one of these portages, we observed, with
+astonishment, a number of people on the next portage, La Cave, about
+pistol-shot distance from us. They proved to be Mr. Hughes, formerly
+partner of the North-West Company; Mr. Berens, a member of Committee,
+and suite: they were painfully situated, in consequence of the loss of
+their bowsman, who, by missing a stroke with his pole, fell into the
+rapid, and was drowned: the steersman was saved with great difficulty.
+
+We got safe through this dangerous river, on the 15th; but two of the
+men had a narrow escape in one of the last portages. Our guide here,
+as everywhere else, having a picked crew, pushed on, and left us
+considerably in the rear. Approaching a fall, Le Bonnet, where no
+traces of a portage could be discovered, the men unloaded the canoes,
+and commenced carrying the goods through the woods; but the _boutes_
+(bowsmen and steersmen) determined on wading down with the canoes, the
+water being shallow, until they should come close to the fall; where,
+by lifting them across a narrow point, they could place them in the
+smooth water beneath. The attempt was made accordingly, by the leading
+canoe; but the rock over which the current flows being smooth, and
+covered with a slimy moss, the men slipped, and were in an instant
+precipitated over the fall. When we saw the canoe rushing over the
+brink, with the poor fellows clinging to it, we all concluded they had
+reached the end of their voyage. Running down to the foot of the fall,
+which was about eleven feet high, having previously ordered a canoe to
+be carried across the point, and some shots to be fired to recall the
+guide, who was now nearly out of sight, I was astonished to find the
+canoe had not upset, although the men had got into it, and it was half
+full of water, and so near the shore that I extended my arm to lay
+hold of the bow. The next moment, however, the stern having come
+within the influence of a whirlpool, it was hurried out into the
+middle of the stream, and dashed with such violence against a rock,
+that the crashing of the timbers was distinctly heard from the shore.
+This shock, which had nearly proved fatal to the men, threw the canoe
+into an eddy, or counter-current, which whirled it to the opposite
+shore, where it was about to sink when assistance came.
+
+In the evening, we arrived at the post of Bas de la Rivière, in charge
+of an Orkney-man, by name Clouston, who had risen from the ranks, and
+who, seeing what small fry he had to deal with, treated us somewhat
+superciliously. Our stock of provisions being exhausted, we applied to
+_Maister_ Clouston for a fresh supply: he granted us what I thought
+very inadequate to our wants; but he said it was all that was allowed
+by the Governor for the passage of the Lake. Here M. Thibaud found two
+men with a small canoe, who had been sent by the Bishop of Red River
+to convey him to his destination, waiting his arrival. We parted with
+feelings of mutual regret.
+
+We left this post late on the 16th, and had proceeded but a short
+distance on the Lake, when a strong head wind compelled us to put
+ashore. We now experienced constant bad weather, never completing a
+day's sailing without interruption from some cause or other; and in
+consequence of these delays, it was found necessary to curtail our
+allowance of provisions. On the 20th, we pitched our tents near a camp
+of Sauteux, from whom the men procured a small quantity of sturgeon,
+in exchange for some articles of clothing. I was surprised to find
+Indians, in a quarter so remote from those tribes with whom I had
+hitherto been conversant, speaking a dialect which I understood
+perfectly: their erratic habits, and intercourse with the Crees and
+Algonquins, may perhaps account for this similarity of dialect.
+
+I entered into conversation with a shrewd old fellow, who had been
+often at Red River settlement. Among other questions, I asked him
+whether he had not been baptized?
+
+"Baptized!" he exclaimed; "don't speak of it, my brother.
+Baptized--that I may go to the devil! Indians think a good Indian goes
+to the good place when he dies; but the priests send _all_ to the evil
+one."
+
+I asked him how he made that out?
+
+"Why, I learned it from the priests themselves. When I first went to
+Red River, I met a French priest, who earnestly besought me to be
+converted. I heard him attentively, and his words had a great effect
+upon me; but I had been told there was another priest there, who had
+different thoughts about religion, and I thought I would go to him
+too. He was very kind to me, and spoke nearly the same words as the
+French priest; so that I thought there was no difference in their
+religions. He asked me if I would be baptized? and I told him that I
+would; but I wanted to learn the French prayer. 'Ah! my son,' he said,
+'that must not be: if you adopt that bad religion, you will be burned
+for certain.' And he spoke so strong, that I almost thought he was
+right. But before I would do anything, I went to the French priest
+again, and told him what the English priest said to me; and then said
+I would learn the English prayer. 'Ah! my son,' said he, 'if you do
+so, it will lead you to perdition: all that pray after the English
+manner go to the fire.' And he said much more, and his words were very
+strong too; so I saw that I could be no better by forsaking the belief
+of my fathers, and I have not gone to French or English priest since."
+
+This is by no means a solitary case; and it is one of the sore evils
+which arise from the corruption of Christianity, and the divisions
+of Christians. Nor, in the case of creeds so opposite as those of
+Protestants and Roman Catholics--creeds as opposite as light and
+darkness--is it easy to point out a remedy. After all, it is surely
+better for these poor Indians to adopt some form of Christianity,
+however corrupt, than to remain in the darkness and debasement of
+heathenism. And if our missionaries would act upon the noble maxim
+of the greatest of the Apostles--"never to enter upon the sphere of
+another man's labours,"--consequences so injurious would be avoided.
+If they have not so much Christianity and good sense as to do so of
+themselves, where there is the power, they should be compelled to do
+it. The Company have the power, but are too much occupied with matters
+which they deem more momentous, to waste a thought upon this.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVI.
+
+CONTINUATION OF THE VOYAGE--RUN SHORT OF PROVISIONS--DOGS'
+FLESH--NORWAY HOUSE--INDIAN VOYAGEURS--ORDERED TO NEW CALEDONIA--LAKE
+WINNIPEG--MACINTOSH'S ISLAND SUBMERGED--CUMBERLAND HOUSE--CHIPPEWEYAN
+AND CREE INDIANS--PORTAGE LA LOCHE--SCENERY--ATHABASCA--HEALTHINESS OF
+THE CLIMATE.
+
+
+High winds detained us in camp on the 21st. The crews of two canoes,
+having finished their last meal to-day, bartered some more of their
+clothes for dogs. We reached a small outpost called Berens House on
+the 23d, where we procured a couple of sturgeon, and a dog valued at
+ten shillings, for which I gave my note of hand. I had a _preein_ of
+this cynic mutton at breakfast; and could not help thinking it would
+have made a most appropriate and _philosophical_ addition to the
+larder of the wise man of the tub. The men, however, having been for
+some time on short commons, seemed to relish it. We supped lightly
+enough on the remainder of Mr. Clouston's bountiful supply, giving a
+share to the men.
+
+After a most tedious and miserable passage, we reached the outlet of
+Lake Winnipeg on the 24th, and arrived next morning at Norway House.
+Here the men were liberally supplied; and I found myself at breakfast
+with a number of chief factors and chief traders, just arrived from
+their respective districts, and on their way with their valuable
+returns to York Factory. Captain Back was also here, having sent on
+his men and baggage under the command of Dr. King, intending himself
+to follow in a light canoe, after having forwarded his despatches to
+Europe.
+
+The day after my arrival, I was notified by one of the officials,
+that it was arranged that I should pass the summer here, giving such
+assistance to the gentleman in charge as might be required of me; and
+that my future destination should be determined upon at York Factory.
+I now passed my time very agreeably, having just enough employment
+in the day-time to keep off _ennui_, and the company of several
+gentlemen, and, what I thought still better, that of a fair
+countrywoman,[1] in the evening. I was gratified to find that there
+existed here a far greater degree of intimacy between gentlemen of
+different ranks in the service, than in the Montreal department, where
+a clerk is considered as a mere hireling; here, on the contrary,
+commissioned officers look upon clerks as candidates for the same rank
+which themselves hold, and treat them accordingly.
+
+    [1] Mistress of the establishment.
+
+The Governor, having taken up his residence for some years past in
+England, crosses the Atlantic once a year, and during his brief
+sojourn, Norway House forms his head-quarters. Here it is that the
+sham Council is held, and everything connected with the business of
+the interior arranged. Here also is the depôt for the districts of
+Athabasca and McKenzie's River, which supplies all the provisions
+required for inland transport. These provisions are furnished by the
+Saskatchewan district, or are purchased by the Company from the
+colonists of Red River, who have no other customers.
+
+The natives of this quarter speak a jargon of Cree and Sauteux, which
+sounds very harshly. They all understand English, and some of them
+speak it fluently. Many of them are constantly employed as voyageurs
+between Norway House and York Factory; and none perform the trip more
+expeditiously, or render their cargoes in better condition than they.
+Of Christianity, they have learned just as much as enables them to
+swear; in other respects, they are still Pagans.
+
+On the 20th of July, I received a letter from Mr. Chief Factor
+Cameron, who acted as President of the Council in the Governor's
+absence, conveying orders for me to proceed to New Caledonia; Mr.
+Charles being instructed to furnish me with a passage to Athabasca,
+and to forward me afterwards to Fort Dunvegan, on Peace River, where I
+was to wait the arrival of the party sent annually from New Caledonia
+for a supply of leather.
+
+The brigade having been despatched on the 27th, Mr. C. and I embarked
+on the 28th, and overtook it at the entrance of Lake Winnipeg. The
+crews being ashore, and enjoying themselves, we passed on; but did not
+proceed far, ere the wind blew so violently as to compel us to put
+ashore. After a delay of about four hours, we "put to sea" again; and
+the wind gradually abating as we proceeded, we encamped in the evening
+nearly opposite to McIntosh's Island.
+
+This island, some years ago, presented an extensive surface of land
+covered with wood: there is not now a vestige of land to be seen; the
+spot where it existed being only known to voyagers by a shoal which is
+visible at low water. But not only have the islands been swept away,
+but the mainland along the west end of the lake seems gradually being
+encroached upon and engulphed by the waves; an undeniable proof of
+which is, that the old post of Norway House, which formerly stood at a
+considerable distance from the water's edge, is now close to it, and
+the burial-ground is nearly all submerged.
+
+We arrived at the foot of Grand Rapid late on the 29th of July, and
+passed the portage on the 30th, assisted by the natives--Sauteux,
+Crees, and half-breeds. These live luxuriously on sturgeon, with
+little toil. Among them I observed two or three old Canadians, who
+could scarcely be distinguished from the natives by language, manners,
+or dress; such persons, when young, having formed an attachment to
+some of the Indian young women, betake themselves to their half-savage
+mode of life, and very soon cannot be persuaded to quit it.
+
+We arrived on the 5th of August at Rivière du Pas, where an old
+Canadian, M. Constant, had fixed his abode, who appeared to have
+an abundance of the necessaries of life, and a large family of
+half-Indians, who seemed to claim him as their sire. We breakfasted
+sumptuously on fish and fowl, and no charge was made; but a gratuity
+of tea, tobacco, or sugar is always given; so that M. Constant loses
+nothing by his considerate attentions to his visitors.
+
+
+We reached Cumberland House on the 8th. Here I was cheered by the
+sight of extensive corn-fields, horned cattle, pigs and poultry, which
+gave the place more the appearance of a farm in the civilized world,
+than of a trading post in the far North-West; and I could not help
+envying the happy lot of its tenant, and contrasting it with my own,
+which led me to the wilds of New Caledonia--to fare like a dog,
+without knowing how long my exile might be protracted.
+
+We arrived at the post of Isle à la Crosse, where we were detained a
+day in consequence of bad weather. This post is also surrounded by
+cultivated fields, and I observed a few cattle; but the voice of the
+grunter was not heard.
+
+The Indians who frequent this post are chiefly Chippeweyans, with a
+few families of Crees. The former differ in features, language, and
+manners from any I had yet seen. Their face is of a peculiar mould,
+broad; the cheekbone remarkably prominent, chin small, mouth wide,
+with thick lips, the upper covered with beard; the body strongly built
+and muscular. They appear destitute of the amiable qualities which
+characterise the Crees. Whenever we met any of them on our route, and
+asked for fish or meat, "Budt hoola,"[1] was the invariable answer;
+yet no Indians were ever more importunate than they in begging for
+tobacco. On the contrary, when we fell in with Crees, they allowed
+us to help ourselves freely, and were delighted to see us do so,
+receiving thankfully whatever we gave them in return. The features of
+the Crees are not so strongly marked as those of the Sauteux, although
+they are a kindred people; yet they are as easily distinguishable from
+each other, as an Englishman from a Frenchman.
+
+    [1] There is none.
+
+We left Isle à la Crosse on the 12th, and without meeting with any
+adventure worthy of notice, reached the end of Portage la Loche
+about two o'clock P.M. of the following day, with canoe and baggage.
+In this, as in every other part of their territories, the Company
+use boats for the transport of property; but by a very judicious
+arrangement, much time and labour are saved at this portage, which is
+said to be twelve miles in length. Boats are placed at the upper and
+lower ends, so that the men have only to carry across the property,
+which, in truth, of itself is a sufficiently laborious operation for
+human beings. The people from the district of McKenzie's River come
+thus far with their returns, and receive their outfit in boats manned
+by half-breeds, who are hired at Red River for the trip.
+
+The prospect which the surrounding country presents from the upper
+end of the portage is very striking; and the more so from the sudden
+manner in which it bursts upon the view. You suddenly arrive at the
+summit of a remarkably steep hill, where, on looking around, the first
+object that attracts attention is a beautiful green hill standing on
+the opposite side of the deep glen, through which the clear Water
+River flows, forming the most prominent feature of an extensive range,
+cut up by deep ravines, whose sides are clothed with wood, presenting
+already all the beautiful variety of their autumnal hues; while,
+at intervals, a glimpse was caught of the river meandering through
+the valley. In former times these hills were covered with herds of
+buffaloes, but not one is to be seen now.
+
+We once more proceeded down the stream, and arrived at Athabasca on
+the 21st of August, where we found Dr. King, who had been delayed some
+days repairing his boats; Capt. Back having proceeded onwards in a
+light canoe to fix on a winter residence.
+
+Fort Chippeweyan was, in the time of the North-West Company, next in
+importance to Fort William. Besides having several detached posts
+depending immediately upon itself, and carrying on a very extensive
+trade with the Chippeweyans, (the best hunters in the Indian country,)
+it served as depôt for the districts of McKenzie's River, and Peace
+River.
+
+The trade of this district, although it bears no comparison to that of
+former times, is yet pretty extensive. It is still the depôt for Peace
+River, and commands the trade with the Chippeweyans. Trade is carried
+on in this quarter solely by barter, which secures the Company from
+loss, and is apparently attended with no inconvenience to the natives,
+who used formerly to take their supplies on credit.
+
+Beaver is the standard according to which all other furs are rated; so
+many martens, so many foxes, &c., equal to one beaver. The trader, on
+receiving the Indian's hunt, proceeds to reckon it up according to
+this rule, giving the Indian a quill for each beaver; these quills are
+again exchanged at the counter for whatever articles he wants. The
+people of this post subsist entirely on the produce of the country,
+fish, flesh, and fowl, of which there is the greatest abundance. Both
+soil and climate are said to be unfavourable to the cultivation of
+grain or vegetables; the attempt is made, however, and sometimes with
+success.
+
+I took my departure from Athabasca on the 24th of August, accompanied
+by Mr. Charles Ross, who had passed the summer there as _locum
+tenens_, and was now proceeding to assume the charge of his own post,
+Fort Vermillion, where we arrived on the 1st of September.
+
+This post is agreeably situated on the right bank of Peace River,
+having the river in front, and boundless prairies in the rear. The
+Indians attached to it are designated Beaver Indians, and their
+language is said to have some affinity to the Chippeweyan. This is,
+however, the only point of resemblance between them. The Beavers are
+a more diminutive race than the Chippeweyans, and their features bear
+a greater resemblance to those of the Crees. They are allowed to be
+generous, hospitable and brave; and are distinguished for their strict
+adherence to truth.
+
+Most Indians boast of the murder of white men as a glorious exploit;
+these, on the contrary, glory in never having shed the blood of one,
+although they often imbrue their hands in the blood of their kindred;
+being very apt to quarrel among themselves, chiefly on account of
+their gallantry. When an illicit amour is detected, the consequence is
+frequently fatal to one of the parties; but the unmarried youth, of
+both sexes, are generally under no restraint whatever.
+
+I bade adieu to Mr. Ross, a warm-hearted Gael, on the 3d, and arrived
+at Fort Dunvegan on the 10th of September, then under the charge of
+Mr. McIntosh, chief factor, where I met with a Highland welcome, and
+passed the time most agreeably in the company of a well educated
+gentleman. The Indians here are of the same tribe as those of Fort
+Vermillion, but are not guiltless of the blood of the whites. This
+post is also surrounded by prairies. A large farm is cultivated,
+yielding in favourable seasons a variety of vegetables and grain: but
+the crops are subject to injury from frost; sometimes are altogether
+destroyed. When the wind blows for some time from the west, it cools
+in its passage across the glaciers of the Rocky Mountains, to such
+a degree, that the change of temperature caused by it is not only
+severely felt in the vicinity of the mountains, but at a great
+distance from them, as far even as Red River.
+
+From the great age attained by many of the retired servants of the
+Company, who pass their lives in this country, the salubrity of the
+climate may fairly be inferred. Meeting a brigade of small canoes
+between Fort Vermillion and this place, and observing an old man with
+a white head and wrinkled face, sitting in the centre of one of them,
+I made up to him, and after saluting him _à la Française_, presented
+him with a piece of tobacco--the Indian letter of introduction. I
+inquired of him how long it was since he had left home.
+
+"Sixty-two years, Monsieur," was the reply; and as the canoes
+assembled around us, he pointed out to me his sons, and his sons'
+sons, to the third and fourth generation.
+
+I heard of no malady which the white inhabitants are liable to, except
+the goîtres; caused, it is presumed, in part by the use of snow-water,
+and in part by the use of the river-water, which is strongly
+impregnated with clay, so much so, as sometimes to resemble a solution
+of the earth itself.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVII.
+
+ARRIVAL OF MR. F. FROM CALEDONIA--SCENERY--LAND-SLIP--MASSACRE AT FORT
+ST. JOHN'S--ROCKY MOUNTAIN PORTAGE--ROCKY MOUNTAINS--MAGNIFICENT
+SCENERY--M'LEOD'S LAKE--RECEPTION OF ITS COMMANDER BY THE INDIANS.
+
+
+Mr. Paul Fraser, a senior clerk, arrived from Caledonia with three
+canoes, on the 26th of September, and on the 28th we took our
+departure. Above Fort Dunvegan the current becomes so strong that
+the canoes are propelled by long poles, in using which the men had
+acquired such dexterity that we made much better progress than I
+could have expected. As we ascended the river, the scenery became
+beautifully diversified with hill and dale and wooded valleys, through
+which there generally flowed streams of limpid water. I observed at
+one place a tremendous land-slip, caused by the water undermining the
+soil. Trees were seen in an inverted position, the branches sunk in
+the ground and the roots uppermost; others with only the branches
+appearing above ground; the earth rent and intersected by chasms
+extending in every direction; while piles of earth and stones
+intermixed with shattered limbs and trunks of trees, contributed to
+increase the dreadful confusion of the scene. The half of a huge hill
+had tumbled into the river, and dammed it across, so that no water
+escaped for some time. The people of Dunvegan, seeing the river
+suddenly dry up, were terrified by the phenomenon, but they had not
+much time to investigate the cause: the river as suddenly reappeared,
+presenting a front of nearly twenty feet in height, and foaming and
+rushing down with the noise of thunder.
+
+On the 3d of October we reached the tenantless Fort of St. John's,
+where a horrid tragedy was enacted some years ago--the commander of
+the post with all his men having been cut off by the Indians. The
+particulars of this atrocious deed, as related to me by the gentleman
+at the head of the district at the time, were as follows:--
+
+It had been determined that the post of St. John's should be
+abandoned, and the establishment removed to the Rocky Mountain
+portage, for the convenience of the Tsekanies, who were excellent
+hunters, but who could not be well supplied from this post, on account
+of the greatness of the distance. Unfortunately a quarrel had arisen
+about this time between the Indians of St. John's and the Tsekanies.
+The former viewed the removal of the post from their lands as an
+insult, and a measure that gave their enemies a decided superiority
+over them, and they took a very effectual method of disappointing
+them.
+
+Mr. Hughes, having sent off his men with a load of property for the
+new post, remained alone. This was the opportunity the Indians sought
+for, and they did not fail to take advantage of it. The unfortunate
+man had been in the habit of walking daily by the river side, and was
+taking his usual promenade the day after the departure of his men,
+when he was shot down by two of the assassins. They then carried his
+body to his room and left it, and his blood still marks the floor.
+The men, altogether unconscious of the fate that awaited them, came
+paddling toward the landing-place, singing a voyageur's song, and just
+as the canoe touched the shore a volley of bullets was discharged at
+them, which silenced them for ever. They were all killed on the spot.
+The post has remained desolate ever since. Fort Dunvegan was also
+abandoned for some years, which reduced the natives to the greatest
+distress.
+
+As soon as intelligence was received of the catastrophe, a party of
+half-breeds and Crees, under the command of one of the clerks, was
+fitted out in order to inflict deserved punishment on the murderers;
+but just as the party had got on the trail, and within a short
+distance of the camp, they received orders from the superintendent to
+return.
+
+These orders were no doubt dictated by feelings of humanity, as Mr.
+McIntosh had learned that some Indians, who were not concerned in the
+murder, were in the same camp, and he was apprehensive the innocent
+might be involved in the same punishment with the guilty. The most
+of them, however, were afterwards starved to death; and the country
+having been abandoned by the Company, gave the natives occasion to
+remark, that the measure was dictated more by fear of them than by
+motives of humanity.
+
+The Rocky Mountains came in view on the 8th of October, and we reached
+the portage bearing their name on the 10th, the crossing of which took
+us eight days, being fully thirteen miles in length, and excessively
+bad road, leading sometimes through swamps and morasses, then
+ascending and descending steep: hills, and for at least one-third of
+the distance so obstructed by fallen trees as to render it all but
+impassable. I consider the passage of this portage the most laborious
+duty the Company's servants have to perform in any part of the
+territory; and, as the voyageurs say, "He that passes it with his
+share of a canoe's cargo may call himself a man."
+
+In the passage we came upon a large camp of Tsekanies, Mr. Eraser's
+customers. Their dialect is similar to that of the Beaver Indians, but
+they understand the Cree, which is the medium of communication between
+Mr. F. and them. It thus appears that this language is understood from
+the shores of Labrador to the foot of the Rocky Mountains.
+
+After passing the portage, the Rocky Mountains reared their snow-clad
+summits all around us, presenting a scene of gloomy grandeur, that
+had nothing cheering in it. One scene, however, struck me as truly
+sublime. As we proceeded onward the mountains pressed closer on the
+river, and at one place approached so near that the gap seemed to have
+been made by the river forcing a passage through them. We passed in
+our canoes at the base of precipices that rose almost perpendicularly
+above us on either side to the height of 3,000 or 4,000 feet! After
+passing through these magnificent portals, the mountains recede to
+a considerable distance, the space intervening between them and the
+river being a flat, yielding timber of a larger growth than I expected
+to find in such a situation.
+
+We arrived at McLeod's Lake--Mr. Fraser's post--on the 25th, where
+a number of Indians were waiting their supplies. They received us
+quite in a military style, with several discharges of fire-arms, and
+appeared delighted at the arrival of their chief. They seemed to be
+on the best possible terms together--the white chief and his _red
+"tail"_. They are Tsekanies, and are reputed honest, industrious, and
+faithful.
+
+The outfit for this post is conveyed on horse-back from Stuart's Lake.
+A more dreary situation can scarcely be imagined, surrounded by
+towering mountains that almost exclude the light of day, and snow
+storms not seldom occurring, so violent and long continued as to bury
+the establishment. I believe there are few situations in the country
+that present such local disadvantages; but there is the same miserable
+solitude everywhere; and yet we find natives of England, Scotland,
+and Ireland devoting their lives to a business that holds forth
+such prospects! I remained with my new friend one day, enjoying the
+comforts of his _eyry_, and then set off for the goal of my long
+course, where I arrived on the 28th of October.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVIII.
+
+ARRIVAL AT NEW CALEDONIA--BEAUTIFUL SCENERY--INDIAN HOUSES--AMUSEMENTS
+AT THE FORT--THREATENED ATTACK OF INDIANS--EXPEDITION AGAINST
+THEM--BEEF-STEAKS--NEW CALEDONIAN FARE--MODE OF CATCHING
+SALMON--SINGULAR DEATH OF NATIVE INTERPRETER--INDIAN FUNERAL
+RITES--BARBAROUS TREATMENT OF WIDOWS.
+
+
+Fort St. James, the depôt of New Caledonia district, stands near
+the outlet of Stuart's Lake, and commands a splendid view of the
+surrounding country. The lake is about fifty miles in length, and
+from three to four miles in breadth, stretching away to the north and
+north-east for about twenty miles; the view from the Fort embraces
+nearly the whole of this section of it, which is studded with
+beautiful islands. The western shore is low, and indented by a number
+of small bays formed by wooded points projecting into the lake, the
+back-ground rising abruptly into a ridge of hills of varied height and
+magnitude. On the east the view is limited to a range of two or three
+miles, by the intervention of a high promontory, from which the eye
+glances to the snowy summits of the Rocky Mountains in the distant
+back-ground. I do not know that I have seen anything to compare with
+this charming prospect in any other part of the country; its beauties
+struck me even at this season of the year, when nature having partly
+assumed her hybernal dress, everything appeared to so much greater
+disadvantage.
+
+The Indian village is situated in a lovely spot at the outlet of the
+lake, and consists of only five or six houses, but every house is
+occupied by several families. These buildings are of a very slight and
+simple construction, being merely formed of stakes driven into the
+ground; a square piece of timber runs horizontally along the top of
+this wall, to which the stakes are fastened by strips of willow bark.
+This inclosure, which is of a square form, is roofed in by placing two
+strong posts at each gable, which support the ridge pole, on which
+the roof sticks are placed, one end resting on the ridge pole, and
+the other on the wall, the whole being covered with pine bark: there
+is generally a door at each end, which is cut in the wall after the
+building is erected. These apertures are of a circular form, and about
+two and a half feet in diameter, so that a stranger finds it very
+awkward to pass through them. In effecting a passage you first
+introduce a leg, then bending low the body you press in head and
+shoulders; in this position you will have some difficulty in
+maintaining your equilibrium, for if you draw in the rest of the body
+too quickly, it is a chance but you will find yourself with your head
+undermost: the natives bolt through them with the agility of a weasel.
+
+For some time after my arrival here, I had very little employment,
+there being a scribe already in the establishment, whose experience
+and industry required no assistance from me. I thus found myself a
+supernumerary--a character that did not suit me, but I was obliged to
+content myself for the present. We were joined early in winter by some
+of the gentlemen in charge of posts, when we managed to pass the time
+very agreeably. Mr. D----, superintendent of the district, played
+remarkably well on the violin and flute, some of us "wee bodies" could
+also do something in that way, and our musical soirees, if not in
+melody, could at least compete in noise, numbers taken into account,
+with any association of the kind in the British dominions. Chess,
+backgammon, and whist, completed the variety of our evening pastimes.
+In the daytime each individual occupied himself as he pleased. When
+together, smoking, "spinning yarns" about _dog_ racing, canoe sailing,
+and _l'amour_; sometimes politics; now and then an animated discussion
+on theology, but without bitterness; these made our days fly away as
+agreeably as our nights.
+
+While thus pleasantly occupied, a piece of intelligence was received,
+which caused the breaking up of our little society, and created some
+alarm. A party of seven or eight Indians having been drowned on their
+way to Alexandria, in autumn, their relatives imputed the misfortune
+to the whites. "Had there been no whites at Alexandria," said they,
+"our friends would not have gone there to trade; and if they had not
+gone there, they would not have been drowned:" _ergo_--the white men
+are the cause of their death, and the Indians must be avenged.
+
+Nothing, however, was known of their hostile intentions until winter,
+when Mr. F. had occasion to send a man to Stuart's Lake with
+despatches, who, on arriving opposite to the Indian camp, found
+himself suddenly surrounded by the natives. They advanced rapidly upon
+him, brandishing their arms, and uttering horrid yells, and would
+have dispatched him on the spot but for the interference of one of
+themselves, who nobly threw himself between the Canadian and the
+muzzles of the guns that were levelled at him, and beckoned him to
+flee. He took to his heels accordingly, and never looked behind him
+till he reached the fort.
+
+A little before Mr. Fisher had learned from his home guards that an
+attack on the fort was intended, and that they had been solicited by
+their neighbours to join in it, but had refused. So far, indeed, from
+wishing to injure the whites, they consented to carry the despatches
+which conveyed the information I have just mentioned. As Mr. F.
+urgently requested that assistance should be afforded him with as
+little delay as possible, it was determined that I should forthwith
+proceed to Alexandria, accompanied by Waccan, the interpreter, and
+eight men well armed.
+
+Passing Fraser's Lake and Fort George posts, we arrived at the Indian
+winter camp, which we found abandoned; but a well beaten track led
+from it in the direction of Alexandria, a circumstance which made
+us apprehensive that our aid might come too late, and prompted us
+to redouble our speed. Our party consequently was soon very much
+scattered--a most unmilitary procedure--which might have proved fatal
+to ourselves, while we thought of relieving our friends.
+
+The interpreter, myself, and two Iroquois, forming the advanced
+guard of the _grand army_, which consisted of full six men, still
+considerably in the rear, on turning a point found ourselves
+immediately in front of the camp. We were thus as much taken by
+surprise as those whom we wished to surprise; but without hesitating a
+moment we rushed up the bank, and were instantly in the midst of the
+camp. The uproar was tremendous, the Indians seized their arms with
+the most threatening gestures and savage yells, and it would have
+been impossible for us to execute our orders--which were to seize
+the ringleader only--without a fierce struggle and bloodshed on both
+sides; and though more resolute, perhaps, than our enemies, we were by
+far the weaker party, their numbers being at least ten to one of ours.
+
+Happily, however, there was an Indian (one of our friends) from
+Alexandria, in the camp, who, as soon as he could make himself
+heard, informed us that the affair had been already arranged to the
+satisfaction of both parties. Thus terminated our expedition, without
+bloodshed and without laurels. A few days earlier it might have been
+otherwise; nor was Mr. F. without blame in neglecting to advise us of
+the arrangement.
+
+We continued our course towards Fort Alexandria, and reached it late
+in the evening. My unexpected appearance gave my old bourgeois of Two
+Mountains an agreeable surprise. Having eaten nothing since morning,
+we made sad havoc of his beefsteaks and potatoes.
+
+"Well, Mac," said he, "to judge from your appetite, the air of New
+Caledonia seems to agree wonderfully with you. Pray how do you like
+the beef-steaks?"
+
+"Never tasted anything better," said I.
+
+Next morning he requested me to accompany him to the store, as he
+said, to see a hind-leg of the steer which had furnished me with my
+steaks. I approached it, and lo! it was the hind-leg of a horse!
+The beef-steaks, or rather _horse_-steaks, were again presented at
+breakfast, and I confess I had not the same relish for them as at
+supper, but my repugnance--such is the effect of habit--was soon
+overcome.
+
+I remained a few days here for the sake of repose, and then returned.
+On the approach of spring, my fellow-subordinate, Mr. McKenzie,
+dissatisfied with the service, left for the east side of the
+mountains, and I took his place at the desk, the duties of which,
+although by no means harassing, left me but little leisure. The
+accounts of all the posts in the district, eight in number, were made
+up here; I had also to superintend the men of the establishment,
+accompany them on their winter trips, and attend to the Indian trade.
+But even if the duty had been more toilsome, I had every inducement to
+perform it cheerfully, as Mr. Dease was one of the kindest and most
+considerate of men. On the 5th of May Mr. Dease took his departure
+for Fort Vancouver, with the returns of his district, which might he
+valued at 11,000l. The outfit, together with servants' wages and
+incidental expenses, amounted to about 3,000l., leaving to the Company
+a clear profit of about 8,000l.
+
+
+I was appointed to the charge of Stuart's Lake during the summer, with
+four men to perform the ordinary duties of the establishment--making
+hay, attending to gardens, &c. A few cattle were introduced in 1830,
+and we now began to derive some benefit from the produce of the dairy.
+Our gardens (a term applied in this country to any piece of ground
+under cultivation) in former times yielded potatoes; nothing would now
+grow save turnips. A few carrots and cabbages were this year raised
+on a piece of new ground, which added to the luxuries of our table.
+Heaven knows, they were much wanted, for the other fare was scarcely
+fit for dogs! In the early part of the season it consisted entirely
+of salmon, which this year was of the worst quality, having been two
+years in the store. A few sturgeon, however, of enormous[1] size,
+were caught, whose flesh was the most tender and delicious I had ever
+eaten, and would have been considered a delicacy by Apicius himself;
+it need not be wondered at then that the capture of one caused
+universal joy.
+
+    [1] Belluga?
+
+The salmon (the New Caledonian staff of life) ascend Frazer's River
+and its tributaries, from the Pacific in immense shoals, proceeding
+towards the sources of the streams until stopped by shallow water.
+Having deposited their spawn, their dead bodies are seen floating down
+the current in thousands; few of them ever return to the sea; and in
+consequence of the old fish perishing in this manner, they fail in
+this quarter every fourth year. The natives display a good deal of
+ingenuity in catching them. Where the current and depth of water
+permit, they bar it across by means of stakes driven into the bottom
+with much labour, and standing about six inches apart; these are
+strongly bound to a piece of timber, or "plate," running along the
+top; stays, or supporters, are placed at intervals of ten or twelve
+feet, the upper end bearing against the plate so as to form an angle
+with the stream. Gaps are left in the works of sufficient size to
+admit the _varveaux_, or baskets, in which the fish are taken. After
+the whole is finished, square frames of wicker-work, called keys, are
+let down against the upper side, to prevent the fish from ascending,
+and at the same time to allow the water a free passage. The keys must
+be kept entirely free from filth, such as branches, leaves, &c.,
+otherwise the whole works would soon be swept away. The baskets are
+of a cylindrical form, about two and a half feet in diameter at the
+mouth, and terminate in a point of four or, five inches. When the
+fishing is over, all the materials are removed, and replaced the
+ensuing year with equal labour.
+
+To preserve the fish for future consumption the following process is
+adopted. The back being split up, and the back-bone extracted, it is
+hung by the tail for a few days; then it is taken down and distended
+on splinters of wood; these are attached to a sort of scaffold erected
+for the purpose, where the fish remains till sufficiently dry for
+preservation. Even in dry seasons, during this process, the ground all
+round the scaffold is thickly covered with large maggots; but in wet
+seasons the sight becomes much more loathsome.
+
+I have already observed that the salmon fail periodically, and the
+natives would consequently be reduced to the utmost distress, did not
+the goodness of Providence furnish them with a substitute. Rabbits
+are sent to supply the place of the salmon; and, singular as it may
+appear, these animals increase in number as the salmon decrease,
+until they swarm all over the country. When the salmon return, they
+gradually disappear, being destroyed or driven away by their greatest
+enemy, the lynx, which first appear in smaller, then in greater
+numbers;--both they and their prey disappearing together. As to the
+_cause_ that induces those animals to appear and disappear in this
+manner, I cannot take upon myself to explain.
+
+In the course of this summer one of our interpreters, a native, lost
+his life in rather a singular manner. He had made a bear-trap, and
+wishing to ascertain how it would work, tried his own weight on the
+spring, which yielded but too readily, and crushed him in so dreadful
+a manner that he only survived his experiment but a few hours. As
+he had withdrawn from the Company's service this year, his body was
+disposed of after the manner of his own people, except that it was
+buried instead of being burned; this, however, was the first instance
+of an interment, it being introduced through our influence in pity to
+the unfortunate widows, who are exposed to the cruellest tortures at
+the burning of the body. I never beheld a more affecting scene than
+the present. Immediately as the coffin was lowered into the grave, the
+widow threw herself upon it, shrieking and tearing her hair, and could
+only be removed by main force: several other females, relatives of the
+deceased, were also assembled in a group hard by, and evinced all the
+external symptoms of extreme grief, chanting the death-song in a most
+lugubrious tone, the tears streaming down their cheeks, and beating
+their breasts. The men, however, even the brothers of the deceased,
+showed no emotion whatever, and as soon as the rites were ended, moved
+off the ground, followed by the female mourners, who soon after were
+seen as gay and cheerful as if they had returned from a wedding. The
+widow, however, still remained by the grave, being obliged to do so
+in conformity with the customs of her nation, which required that she
+should mourn day and night, until the relatives of the deceased should
+collect a sufficiency of viands to make a feast in honour of his
+bones.
+
+As already observed, the bodies were formerly burned; the relatives of
+the deceased, as well as those of the widow, being present, all armed;
+a funeral pile was erected, and the body placed upon it. The widow
+then set fire to the pile, and was compelled to stand by it, anointing
+her breast with the fat that oozed from the body until the heat became
+insupportable: when the wretched creature, however, attempted to draw
+back, she was thrust forward by her husband's relatives at the point
+of their spears, and forced to endure the dreadful torture until
+either the body was reduced to ashes, or she herself almost scorched
+to death. Her relatives were present merely to preserve her life; when
+no longer able to stand they dragged her away; and this intervention
+often led to bloody quarrels! The body being burned, the ashes were
+collected in a box and given in charge to the widow, who carried them
+about with her until the feast was prepared, when they were taken from
+her, and deposited in a small hut or placed upon the top of a wooden
+pillar neatly carved, as their final resting-place.
+
+During this interval she was in a state of the most wretched slavery;
+every child in the village might command her and beat her unmercifully
+if they chose, no one interfered. After the feast, however, she
+regained her freedom, and along with that the privilege of incurring
+the risk of another scorching. Our interference relieved them from the
+most cruel part of the ceremony; the temporary state of slavery is
+still continued.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIX.
+
+INDIAN FEAST--ATTEMPT AT DRAMATIC REPRESENTATION--RELIGION--ORDERED TO
+PORT ALEXANDRIA--ADVANTAGES OF THE SITUATION--SENT BACK TO FORT ST.
+JAMES--SOLITUDE--PUNISHMENT OF INDIAN MURDERER--ITS CONSEQUENCES--HEROIC
+ADVENTURE OF INTERPRETER.
+
+
+Mr. Dease arrived from Fort Vancouver on the 5th of September, and
+expressed himself highly gratified with the appearance our "gardens"
+presented; an ample stock of salmon had also been laid in, so that we
+had nothing to fear from want, which sometimes had been severely felt.
+In the beginning of November, our despatches from the east side of the
+mountains came to hand, usually a joyful event, but saddened this year
+by the intelligence we received, that our excellent superintendent was
+about to leave us, having obtained permission to visit the civilized
+world for medical advice;--the doctor was only 5,000 miles off!
+
+In the beginning of the winter we were invited to a feast held in
+honour of a great chief, who died some years before. The person who
+delivered the invitation stalked into the room with an air of vast
+consequence, and strewing our heads with down, pronounced the name of
+the presiding chief, and withdrew without uttering another syllable.
+To me the invitation was most acceptable: although I had heard much of
+Indian feasts, I never was present at any.
+
+Late in the evening we directed our steps towards the "banqueting
+house," a large hut temporarily erected for the occasion. We found the
+numerous guests assembled and already seated around "the festive
+board;" our place had been left vacant for us, Mr. Dease taking his
+seat next to the great chief, Quaw, and we, his Meewidiyazees (little
+chiefs), in succession. The company were disposed in two rows: the
+chiefs and elders being seated next the wall, formed the outer, and
+the young men the inner row; an open space of about three feet in
+breadth intervening between them. Immense quantities of roasted meat,
+bear, beaver, siffleu or marmot, were piled up at intervals, the whole
+length of the building; berries mixed up with rancid salmon oil, fish
+roe that had been buried underground a twelve-month, in order to give
+it an _agreeable_ flavour, were the good things presented at this
+feast of gluttony and flow of oil. The berry mixture, and roes were
+served in wooden troughs, each having a large wooden spoon attached to
+it. The enjoyments of the festival were ushered in with a song, in
+which all joined:--
+
+            "I approach the village,
+            Ya ha he ha, ya ha ha ha;
+            And hear the voices of many people,
+            Ya ha, &c.
+            The barking of dogs,
+            Ya ha, &c.
+            Salmon is plentiful,
+            Ya ha, &c.
+            The berry season is good,
+            Ya ha, &c.
+
+After the song commenced the demolition of the mountains of meat,
+which was but slowly effected, notwithstanding the unremitting and
+strenuous exertions of the guests. The greatest order, however, was
+maintained; the relatives of the deceased acted as stewards, each of
+them seizing a roasted beaver, or something else, squatted himself in
+front of one of the guests, and presenting the meat, which he held
+with both his hands (males and females officiating), desired him to
+help himself. If the guest appeared backward in the attack, he was
+pressed, in the politest terms, to eat. "Now, I pray you, tear away
+with a good will;"--"I am glad to see you eat so strongly;"--"Come
+now, stuff yourself with this fine piece of fat bear." And stuff
+himself he must, or pay a forfeit, to avoid a catastrophe. But having
+paid thus, and acknowledged himself fairly overcome by his host's
+politeness, he is spared any further exertions, and his viands are no
+longer presented to him in this way, but placed in a dish beside him.
+
+Well aware of our inability to maintain the honour of our country in a
+contest of this kind, we paid our forfeit at the commencement of the
+onslaught, reserving our portions to be disposed of at home.
+
+The gormandizing contest ended as it began, with songs and dances; in
+the latter amusement, however, few were now able to join; afterwards
+ensued a rude attempt at dramatic representation. Old Quaw, the chief
+of Nekaslay, first appeared on the stage, in the character of a
+bear--an animal he was well qualified to personate. Rushing from his
+den, and growling fiercely, he pursued the huntsman, the chief of
+Babine portage, who defended himself with a long pole; both parties
+maintained a running fight, until they reached the far end of the
+building, where they made their exit. Enter afterwards a jealous
+husband and his wife, wearing masks (both being men). The part these
+acted appeared rather dull; the husband merely sat down by the side of
+his "frail rib," watching her motions closely, and neither allowing
+her to speak to nor look at any of the young men. As to the other
+characters, one personated a deer, another a wolf, a third a strange
+Tsekany. The bear seemed to give the spectators most delight.
+
+The scene was interesting, as exhibiting the first rude attempts at
+dramatic representation of a savage people; and it served, in some
+measure, to efface the impression made by the somewhat disgusting
+spectacle previously witnessed. The affair concluded by an exchange of
+presents, and the party broke up.
+
+Two young men, natives of Oregon, who had received a little education
+at Red River, had, on their return to their own country, introduced a
+sort of religion, whose groundwork seemed to be Christianity,
+accompanied with some of the heathen ceremonies of the natives. This
+religion spread with amazing rapidity all over the country. It reached
+Fort Alexandria, the lower post of the district, in the autumn; and
+was now embraced by all the Nekaslayans. The ceremonial consisted
+chiefly in singing and dancing. As to the doctrines of our holy
+religion, their minds were too gross to comprehend, and their manners
+too corrupt to be influenced by them. They applied to us for
+instruction, and our worthy chief spared no pains to give it. But,
+alas! it is for the most part labour in vain. Yet, an impression
+seemed to have been made on a few; and had there been missionaries
+there at the time, their efforts might have proved successful. But the
+influence of the "men of medicine," who strenuously withstand a
+religion which exposes their delusive tricks, and consequently
+deprives them of their gains,--together with the dreadful depravity
+everywhere prevalent,--renders the conversion of the Tekallies an
+object most difficult to accomplish.
+
+It is a general opinion among Christians, that there exists no nation
+or people on earth who are entirely ignorant of a Supreme Being. I
+shall contrast the language of this tribe with that of the Sauteux or
+Ojibbeway, and let the reader judge for himself.
+
+I have heard a heathen Ojibbeway, when giving a feast, express himself
+thus: "The great Master of Life, he who sees us and whom we cannot
+see, having done me charity, I invite you, my brother, to partake of
+it." On a like occasion, a Takelly describes the manner in which he
+killed his game, but never alludes to a deity. When an Ojibbeway
+wishes to confirm the truth of what he says beyond a doubt, he points
+to heaven and exclaims, "He to whom we belong hears that what I say is
+true." The Takelly says, "The toad hears me." You ask a Takelly what
+becomes of him after death, he replies, "My life shall be _extinct_,
+and I shall be dead." Not an idea has he of the soul, or of a future
+state of rewards and punishments. The Ojibbeway answers, "After death
+my soul goes either to a happy land, abounding with game and every
+delight; or to a land of misery, where I shall suffer for ever from
+want. Whether it go to the good or bad place depends on my good or bad
+conduct here."
+
+In fact the Takelly language has not a term in it to express the name
+of Deity, spirit, or soul. When the Columbia religion was introduced
+among them, our interpreters had to invent a term for the
+Deity--Yagasita--the "Man of Heaven." The only expression I ever heard
+them use that conveyed any idea whatever of a superior Being is, that
+when the salmon fail, they say, "The Man who keeps the mouth of the
+river has shut it up with his red keys, so that the salmon cannot get
+up." One of our gentlemen, a member of the Roman Catholic Church,
+teaching the Takellies to make the sign of the cross, with the words
+used on the occasion, his interpreter translated them, "Au nom du
+Père, de son Frère, et puis de son petit Garçon!" (In the name of the
+Father, his Brother, and his little Boy!)
+
+The accompts and despatches for head-quarters being finished in the
+beginning of March, I was ordered to convey them to Fort Alexandria,
+to the charge of which post I was now appointed. This post is
+agreeably situated on the banks of Frazer's River, on the outskirts of
+the great prairies. The surrounding country is beautifully diversified
+by hill and dale, grove and plain; the soil is rich, yielding abundant
+successive crops of grain and vegetable, unmanured; but the crops are
+sometimes destroyed by frost. The charming locality, the friendly
+disposition of the Indians, and better fare, rendered this post one of
+the most agreeable situations in the Indian country. In spring,
+moreover, the country swarms with game--pheasants and a small species
+of curlieu in the immediate vicinity, and ducks and geese within a
+short distance. The sport was excellent, and, with the amusement the
+cultivation of my garden afforded me, enabled me to vegetate in great
+comfort--a comfort I was not destined long to enjoy.
+
+Mr. Ogden, chief factor, arrived from Fort Vancouver about the end of
+May, and Mr. Fisher from Stuart's Lake a few days afterwards; and
+having consulted together, determined that I should retrace my steps
+to Stuart's Lake without delay. When I arrived at Fort St. James its
+dreadful solitude almost drove me to despair. I found myself sitting
+alone in the hall where my late excellent bourgeois and friends had
+passed the time so happily, and I felt a depression of spirits such as
+I never experienced before. Fortunately for me, my old friend Mr.
+Fraser, a gentleman of a gay and lively disposition, arrived soon
+after, and continued with me for the remainder of the season, and his
+company soon drove melancholy away.
+
+The particulars of an affair which had occurred here some years
+before, and threatened the most serious consequences to the post, were
+about this time related to me by Waccan, the interpreter.
+
+A native of Frazer's Lake had murdered one of the Company's servants,
+and, strange to say, no steps were taken to punish him; he concealed
+himself some time, and finding he had nothing to apprehend, returned
+to his village. At length he was led by his evil genius to visit
+Stuart's Lake, then under the command of a Douglas. Douglas heard of
+his being in the village, and though he had but a weak garrison,
+determined that the blood of the white man should not be unavenged.
+The opportunity was favourable, the Indians of the village were out on
+a hunting excursion, the murderer was nearly alone. He proceeded to
+the camp accompanied by two of his men, and executed justice[1] on the
+murderer. On their return in the evening, the Indians learned what had
+happened, and enraged, determined to retaliate. Aware, however, that
+Douglas was on his guard, that the gates were shut and could not be
+forced, they resolved to employ Indian stratagem.
+
+    [1] "Wild justice,"--Bacon.
+
+The old chief accordingly proceeded to the Fort alone, and knocking at
+the gate desired to be admitted, which was granted. He immediately
+stated the object of his visit, saying that a deed had been done in
+the village which subjected himself and his people to a heavy
+responsibility to the relatives of the dead; that he feared the
+consequences, and hoped that a present would be made to satisfy them;
+and continuing to converse thus calmly, Mr. Douglas was led to believe
+that the matter could easily be arranged. Another knock was now heard
+at the gate: "It is my brother," said the chief, "you may open the
+gate; he told me he intended to come and hear what you had to say on
+this business."
+
+The gate was opened, and in rushed the whole Nekasly tribe, the
+chief's brother at their head; and the men of the Fort were
+overpowered ere they had time to stand on their defence. Douglas,
+however, seized a wall-piece that was mounted in the hall, and was
+about to discharge it on the crowd that was pouring in upon him, when
+the chief seized him by the arms, and held him fast. For an instant
+his life was in the utmost peril. Surrounded by thirty or forty
+Indians, their knives drawn, and brandishing them over his head with
+frantic gestures, and calling out to the chief, "Shall we strike?
+shall we strike?"
+
+The chief hesitated; and at this critical moment the interpreter's
+wife[1] stepped forward, and by her presence of mind saved him and the
+establishment.
+
+    [1] This woman is the daughter of Mr. James MacDougal, a
+    gentleman who had a chief hand in the settlement of the
+    district. He served the Company for a period of thirty-five
+    years, enduring all the hardships that were in his time
+    inseparable from an Indian trader's life; and was dismissed
+    from their service, in old age, without a pension, to starve
+    on such little savings as he had effected out of his salary.
+    He is still alive (1841), struggling with adversity.
+
+Observing one of the inferior chiefs, who had always professed the
+greatest friendship for the whites, standing in the crowd, she
+addressed herself to him, exclaiming, "What! you a friend of the
+whites, and not say a word in their behalf at such a time as this!
+Speak! you know the murderer deserved to die; according to your own
+laws the deed was just; it is blood for blood. The white men are not
+dogs; they love their kindred as well as you; why should they not
+avenge their murder?"
+
+The moment the heroine's voice was heard the tumult subsided; her
+boldness struck the savages with awe; the chief she addressed, acting
+on her suggestion, interfered; and being seconded by the old chief,
+who had no serious intention of injuring the whites, was satisfied
+with showing them that they were fairly in his power. Mr. Douglas and
+his men were set at liberty; and an amicable conference having taken
+place, the Indians departed much elated with the issue of their
+enterprise.
+
+A personal adventure of Waccan's is worth recording. An interpreter, a
+Cree half-breed, had been murdered by the Indians of Babine post with
+circumstances of great barbarity; and the perpetrators of the deed
+were allowed to exult in the shedding of innocent blood with impunity,
+one feeble, ineffectual attempt only having been made to chastise
+them. Waccan, however, determined that the matter should not end thus,
+the victim being his adopted brother. Having been sent to Babine post
+with an Indian lad, he learned from him that the murderers were
+encamped in a certain bay on Stuart's Lake, and resolved to seize the
+long wished-for opportunity of revenge; but fearing for his
+companion's safety more than his own, he landed him at a considerable
+distance from the camp, directing him to make the best of his way home
+if he should hear many shots.
+
+He then paddled down as near the camp as he could without being
+discovered, and landing, threw off every article of clothing save a
+shred round his loins; and with his gun in the one hand, and dagger in
+the other, proceeded to the spot. Having approached sufficiently near
+to see all that passed in the encampment, he squatted among the
+bushes, and watching his opportunity, "picked off" the ringleader;
+then rushing from his covert, and giving the war whoop, he planted his
+dagger in his heart almost before the Indians had time to know what
+had happened. Seeing the infuriated "avenger of blood" in the midst of
+them, they fled precipitately to the woods. Waccan dared them to
+revenge the death of the "dead dog" who had murdered his brother.
+
+"Come," said he, "you that were so brave at Babine Lake, and danced
+round the body of him whom you did not face, but knocked down when his
+back was to you, now is your time to show yourselves _men_."
+
+No one answering the challenge, he shouldered his gun, walked along
+the beach to his canoe, and paddling leisurely off from the shore,
+sang the Cree song of triumph.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XX.
+
+APPOINTED TO THE CHARGE OF FORT GEORGE--MURDER OF MR. YALE'S
+MEN--MYSTERIOUS LOSS OF MR. LINTON AND FAMILY--ADVENTURES OF LEATHER
+PARTY--FAILURE OF CROPS--INFLUENZA.
+
+
+In the beginning of September, Mr. Ogden arrived from Fort Vancouver,
+and I was appointed by him to the charge of Fort George, whither I
+proceeded forthwith. Mr. Linton, my predecessor, was directed to wait
+the arrival of the party sent to Jasper's house for a supply of
+leather, ere he took his departure for Chilcotin, an outpost of Fort
+Alexandria.
+
+Fort George was established a few years ago, and passed through the
+bloody ordeal ere yet the buildings were completed. The gentleman in
+charge, Mr. Yale, had left his men at work, and gone on a visit to
+Fort St. James, where he only remained a few days; on his return he
+found his men had been treacherously murdered by the Indians during
+his absence. Their mangled bodies were found in one of the houses,
+with one of their own axes by their side, which evidently had been the
+instrument of their destruction. The poor men were in the habit of
+retiring to rest during the heat of the day, and were despatched while
+they slept.
+
+A great change has come over this people since that time; they are now
+justly considered the best disposed and most industrious Indians in
+the district. The situation of the post is exceedingly dreary,
+standing on the right bank of Frazer's River, having in front a high
+hill that shades the sun until late in the morning, and in the midst
+of "woods and wilds, whose melancholy gloom" is saddening enough. Yet
+it has its _agrémens_, its good returns,--the _ne plus ultra_ of an
+Indian trader's happiness,--its good Indians, and its good fare; the
+produce of the soil and dairy.
+
+Poor Linton had remained with me till late in autumn; when the cold
+weather setting in with unusual rigour, the ice began to drift on the
+river, rendering the navigation already dangerous; and no accounts
+having been received of the leather party, he determined to embark for
+his destination without further loss of time. He, alas! had already
+waited too long. Having occasion in the beginning of winter to send
+down a messenger to Fort Alexandria, I was surprised to see him two
+days after enter the fort, accompanied by one of Mr. Fisher's men, who
+brought me the melancholy tidings of Mr. L.'s death, part of his
+baggage having been found by the natives among the ice. Eight souls
+had perished, no one knows how; Mr. L., his wife and three children,
+an interpreter, his wife and one child.
+
+Some suspicions attached to a disreputable family of Indians who were
+known to be encamped on the banks of the river at the time; but it is
+more probable that the catastrophe occurred in a rapid not far from
+this post, as a dog which the party had with them came back at an
+early hour the day after their departure. This misfortune threw a
+gloom over the whole district, where Linton was much beloved, and his
+death, so sudden and mysterious, made the blow be felt more severely.
+
+Before this sad intelligence reached us, the safety of the leather
+party had become a source of deep anxiety. They had been expected in
+October, and no accounts had been received of them in the month of
+December. Having forwarded Mr. Fisher's despatches to head-quarters, I
+received orders from Mr. Ogden to proceed to Jasper's house, in order,
+if possible, to obtain information regarding them; which I eagerly
+obeyed, setting off with five men, and sledges loaded with provisions,
+drawn by dogs. We had not proceeded far, however, when we met the
+truants all safe and sound. Their non-arrival in the fall was
+occasioned by the winter setting in unprecedentedly early.
+
+They experienced the utmost difficulty in crossing the Rocky
+Mountains, from the great depth of snow that had already fallen; and
+when they reached the heights of Frazer's River, they found the ice
+beginning to form along its shores. They persevered, however;
+sometimes forcing their way through the ice, sometimes carrying the
+canoes and property overland where the passage was blocked up by the
+ice. But all their efforts proved unavailing, for they were at length
+completely frozen in.
+
+Their prospects were now most disheartening. Their remaining
+provisions would only suffice for four days on short allowance, and
+they had a journey of fifteen days before them, whichever way they
+should direct their course. Some of the men yielded to despair, but
+the greater part cheerfully embraced Mr. Andersen's views. Those only
+who are unacquainted with the Canadian voyageurs will deny them the
+possession of qualities, of the highest value in this country--ready
+obedience to their superiors, patience of fatigue and hardship, and
+unyielding perseverance under the most trying difficulties, so long as
+their leaders show them the way. Mr. Anderson having secured the
+property _en cache_, determined to return to Jasper's house, in order
+to procure at least a part of the much wanted supply of leather. On
+their way back they had the good fortune to light upon a stray horse,
+which they converted into provender: they also shot a moose deer; and
+thus providentially supplied, they suffered little from want.
+
+On arriving at the post, they found to their sad disappointment that
+nothing could be got there, except some provisions; it was therefore
+necessary to proceed to Fort Edmonton, at least 400 miles distant,
+with but one intermediate post. They succeeded in reaching it, though
+in a most deplorable condition, half starved and half frozen, none of
+the party being provided with winter clothing; but they were most
+hospitably received by the kind-hearted bourgeois Mr. Rowand; and,
+after remaining a few days to recruit their strength in this land
+overflowing with fat and pemmican, and receiving their supplies, they
+set off on their return, and reached their destination without
+accident.
+
+Farming on a small scale had been attempted here by my predecessor,
+and the result was such as to induce more extensive operations. I
+received orders, therefore, to clear land, sow and plant, forthwith.
+These orders were in part carried into effect in the autumn. Four
+acres of land were put in a condition to receive seed, and about the
+same quantity at Fort Alexandria. Seed was ordered from the Columbia,
+and handmills to grind our grain. Pancakes and hot rolls were
+thenceforward to be the order of the day; Babine salmon and dog's
+flesh were to be sent--"to Coventry!" The spring, however, brought
+with it but poor prospects for pancakes; the season was late beyond
+all precedent; the fields were not sown until the 5th of May; they,
+nevertheless, promised well for some time, but cold weather ensued,
+and continued so long that the crops could not recover before the
+autumn frosts set in, and thus our hopes were blasted. The farm at
+Alexandria had not much better success, owing to the neglect of the
+good people themselves;--not having enclosed their fields, the cattle
+destroyed the greater part of the crops. Here, however,
+notwithstanding the failure of our grain crops, we had abundance of
+vegetables and a large stock of cattle, so that our fare was far
+superior to that of the other _exiles_ in the district.
+
+Mr. Ogden returned from Fort Vancouver about the usual time, and was
+mortified to find that our grand agricultural experiment had so
+completely failed. He, however, had brought a supply of flour
+sufficient to afford each commander of posts a couple of bags, and
+thus the inconvenience arising from our disappointment was, in some
+degree, obviated.
+
+From his first arrival amongst us, Mr. Ogden evinced the most earnest
+desire to ameliorate the condition of his subordinates in this
+wretched district, and all felt grateful to him for his benevolent
+intentions. To Mr. Dease, however, the praise is due of having
+introduced this new order of things: he it was who first introduced
+cattle from Fort Vancouver; it was he who first introduced farming,
+and recommended it to others.
+
+Late in autumn, the natives being all about the post, the dread
+influenza, that had made such fearful havoc among the Indians in other
+quarters, broke out here also. The poor creatures had a great deal of
+confidence in my medical skill, from the circumstance of my having
+saved the life of a boy who had eaten some poisonous root, when
+despaired of by their own mountebanks.
+
+On the present occasion I tried my skill on one of the subjects best
+able to bear my experiments, by administering a strong emetic and
+purge, and causing him afterwards to drink a decoction of mint. He was
+cured, and I afterwards prescribed the same medicine to many others
+with a like success; so that my reputation as a disciple of Æsculapius
+became firmly established.
+
+Having last year applied to the Governor for permission to visit
+head-quarters, for a purpose which will be noticed hereafter, I
+received a favourable answer, and, in the month of February, set off
+for the depôt of the district preparatory to my departure, where I
+remained for a month in company with Mr. Ogden and several
+fellow-scribes.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXI.
+
+CLIMATE OF NEW CALEDONIA--SCENERY--NATURAL
+PRODUCTIONS--ANIMALS--FISHES--NATIVES--THEIR MANNERS AND
+CUSTOMS--DUELLING--GAMBLING--LICENTIOUSNESS--LANGUAGE.
+
+
+Ere I proceed on my long journey, I must pause for a little to
+describe more particularly the country, which I am about to quit,
+perhaps for ever, and the manners of its savage inhabitants. The
+climate of New Caledonia is exceedingly variable at all seasons of the
+year. I have experienced at Stuart's Lake, in the month of July, every
+possible change of weather within twelve hours; frost in the morning,
+scorching heat at noon; then rain, hail, snow. The winter season is
+subject to the same vicissitudes, though not in so extreme a degree:
+some years it continues mild throughout. These vicissitudes may, I
+think, be ascribed to local causes--proximity to, or distance from the
+glaciers of the Rocky Mountains, the direction of the winds, the
+aspect of the place, &c. Fort St. James is so situated as to be
+completely exposed to the north-east wind, which wafts on its wings
+the freezing vapours of the glaciers. The instant the wind shifts to
+this quarter, a change of temperature is felt; and when it continues
+to blow for a few hours, it becomes so cold that, even in midsummer,
+small ponds are frozen over. The surrounding country is mountainous
+and rocky.
+
+Frazer's Lake is only about thirty miles distant from Fort St. James
+(on Stuart's Lake), yet there they raise abundance of vegetables,
+potatoes and turnips, and sometimes even wheat and barley. The post
+stands in a valley open to the south-west,--a fine champaign country,
+of a sandy soil; it is protected from the north-east winds by a high
+ridge of hills. The winter seldom sets in before December, and the
+navigation is generally open about the beginning of May.
+
+Few countries present a more beautiful variety of scenery than New
+Caledonia. Stuart's Lake and its environs I have already attempted to
+describe, but many such landscapes present themselves in different
+parts of the country, where towering mountains, hill and dale, forest
+and lake, and verdant plains, blended together in the happiest manner,
+are taken in by the eye at a glance. Some scenes there are that recall
+forcibly to the remembrance of a son of Scotia, the hills and glens
+and "bonnie braes" of his own poor, yet beloved native land. New
+Caledonia, however, has the advantage over the Old, of being generally
+well wooded, and possessed of lakes of far greater magnitude;
+unfortunately, however, the woods are decaying rapidly, particularly
+several varieties of fir, which are being destroyed by an insect that
+preys on the bark: when the country is denuded of this ornament, and
+its ridges have become bald, it will present a very desolate
+appearance. In some parts of the country, the poplar and aspen tree
+are to be found, together with a species of birch, of whose bark
+canoes are built; but there is neither hard wood nor cedar.
+
+Such parts of the district as are not in the immediate vicinity of the
+regions of eternal snow, yield a variety of wild fruit, grateful to
+the palate, wholesome, and nutritious. Of these, the Indian pear is
+the most abundant, and most sought after, both by natives and whites;
+when fully ripe, it is of a black colour, with somewhat of a reddish
+tinge, pear-shaped, and very sweet to the taste. The natives dry them
+in the sun, and afterwards bake them into cakes, which are said to be
+delicious; for my own part, having seen the process of manufacturing
+them, I could not overcome my prejudices so far as to partake of a
+delicacy in whose composition filth formed so considerable an
+ingredient. When dried, the cakes are placed in wooden vessels to
+receive the juice of green fruit, which is expressed by placing
+weights upon it, in wooden troughs, from which spouts of bark draw off
+the liquid into the vessels containing the dry fruit; this being
+thoroughly saturated, is again bruised with the unclean hand, then
+re-formed into cakes, and dried again; and these processes are
+repeated alternately, until the cakes suit the taste of the maker.
+Blue berries are plentiful in some parts of the district; there is a
+peculiar variety of them, which I preferred to any fruit I ever
+tasted; it is about the size of a musket-ball, of a purple colour,
+translucid, and in its taste sweet and acid are deliciously blended.
+
+The district is still rich in fur-bearing animals, especially beavers
+and martens, which are likely to continue numerous for many years to
+come, as they find a safe retreat among the fastnesses of the Rocky
+Mountains, where they multiply undisturbed. This is the great beaver
+nursery, which continues to replace the numbers destroyed in the more
+exposed situations; there is, nevertheless, a sensible decrease in the
+returns of the fur since the introduction of steel traps among the
+natives: there are also otters, musk-rats, minxes, and lynxes. Of the
+larger quadrupeds bears only are numerous, and in all their varieties,
+grizzled, black, brown, and chocolate: numbers of them are taken by
+the natives in wooden traps. A chance moose or reindeer is sometimes
+found. The mountain sheep generally keeps aloft in the most
+inaccessible parts of the mountains, and is seldom "bagged" by a
+Carrier, but often by the Tsekanies. I have before observed that
+rabbits sometimes abound. Another small animal, whose flesh is
+delicious in season, the marmot, is found in great numbers. In the
+neighbourhood of Fort Alexandria, the jumping deer, or chevreuil, is
+abundant. To these add dog and horse flesh, and you have all the
+varieties of animal food the country affords to its inhabitants,
+civilized or savage.
+
+A most destructive little animal, the wood-rat, infests the country,
+and generally nestles in the crevices of the rocks, but prefers still
+more human habitations; they domicile under the floors of
+out-buildings, and not content with this, force their way into the
+inside, where they destroy and carry off every thing they can; nor is
+there any way of securing the property in the stores from their
+depredations but by placing it in strong boxes. When fairly located,
+it is almost impossible to root them out. They are of a grey colour,
+and of nearly the size and form of the common rat, but the tail
+resembles that of the ground squirrel.
+
+The birds of this country are the same as in Canada. I observed no
+strange variety, except a species of curlieu that frequents the plains
+of Fort Alexandria in the summer. Immense flocks of cranes are seen in
+autumn and spring, flying high in the air; in autumn directing their
+flight towards the south, and in spring towards the north.
+
+Some of the Lakes abound in fish; the principal varieties are trout,
+carp, white fish, and pike. Stuart's Lake yields a small fish termed
+by the Canadians "poisson inconnu;" it seems as if it were partly
+white fish and partly carp, the head resembling the former; it is full
+of small bones, and the flesh soft and unsavoury. The sturgeon has
+been already mentioned, but they are unfortunately too rare; seldom
+more than five or six are captured in a season; they weigh from one
+hundred to five hundred pounds. A beautiful small fish of the size of
+the anchovy, and shaped like a salmon, is found in a river that falls
+into Stuart's Lake; it is said they pass the winter in the lake, and
+ascend their favourite stream in the month of June, where they deposit
+their spawn. They have the silvery scales of the larger salmon, and
+are exceedingly rich; but the natives preserve them almost exclusively
+for their own use. There are four varieties of salmon, distinguished
+from each other by the peculiar form of the head; the largest species
+seems to be the same we have in the rivers of Britain, and weighs from
+ten to twenty pounds; the others do not exceed half that weight.
+
+New Caledonia is inhabited by the Takelly or Carrier nation, and by a
+few families of Tsekanies on the north-eastern extremity of the
+district. The Takellies are divided into as many tribes as there are
+posts--viz. eight, who formerly were as hostile to each other as if
+they had been of different nations. The presence of the whites,
+however, has had the beneficial effect of checking their cut-throat
+propensities, although individual murders still occasionally occur
+among them.
+
+Before the introduction of fire-arms, the _honourable_ practice of
+duelling prevailed among them, though in a fashion peculiar to
+themselves. One arrow only was discharged, by the party demanding
+satisfaction, at his opponent, who, by dint of skipping about and
+dodging from side to side, generally contrived to escape it; fatal
+duels, therefore, seldom if ever occurred; and the parties, having
+thus given and received satisfaction, retired from the field
+reconciled.[1] They appear more prone to sudden bursts of passion than
+most Indians I have seen, and quarrel often and abuse each other in
+the most scurrilous terms. With the Sauteux, Crees, and other tribes
+on the east side of the mountains, few words are uttered before the
+blow, often a fatal one, is given; whereas, with the Takellies, it is
+often many words and few blows. In the quarrels which take place among
+them, the ladies are generally the _causa belli_--a cause which would
+soon lead to the depopulation of the country, were all husbands to
+avenge their wrongs by shedding the blood of the guilty.
+
+    [1] I would recommend this mode of conducting "affairs of
+    honour" to _honourable_ gentlemen using the hair-trigger, as
+    an improvement. Though practised by savages, it must be
+    allowed to be somewhat less barbarous than ten paces'
+    distance, and standing still! If the exhibition should appear
+    somewhat ludicrous, both parties would have the additional
+    "satisfaction" that their morning _exercise_ had given a
+    keener zest to their breakfast. It would be a sort of Pyrrhic
+    dance.
+
+Their chiefs have still considerable authority; but much of the homage
+they claimed and received in former times is now transferred to the
+white chiefs, or traders, whom they all esteem the greatest men in
+the universe. "After the Man of heaven," said old Guaw to Mr. Dease,
+"you are next in dignity." Owing to the superstitious notions of the
+people, the chiefs are still feared on account of the magical powers
+ascribed to them; it is firmly believed they can, at will, inflict
+diseases, cause misfortunes of every kind, and even death itself;
+and so strong is this impression, that they will not even pass in a
+direction where the shadow of a chief, or "man of medicine," might
+fall on them, "lest," say they, "he should bear us some ill-will and
+afflict us with some disease."
+
+These conjurors, nevertheless, are the greatest bunglers at their
+trade of any in the Indian territory; they practise none of the
+clever tricks of the Sauteux sorcerers, and are perfectly ignorant
+of the medicinal virtues of herbs and plants, with which the Sauteux
+and other Indians often perform astonishing cures. The Takellies
+administer no medicine to the sick; a variety of ridiculous
+gesticulations, together with singing, blowing, and _beating_ on
+the _patient_, are the means they adopt to effect their end; and
+they, not seldom, effectually cure the patient of "all the ills of
+life." Whether they effect a cure or not, they are sure to be well
+recompensed for their expenditure of wind, an article of which they
+are not sparing: they, in fact, exert themselves so much that the
+perspiration pours from every pore. The only real remedy they use,
+in common with other Indians, is the vapour-bath, or sweating-house.
+The house, as it is termed, which is constructed by bending twigs of
+willow, and fixing both ends in the ground, when finished, presents
+the appearance of a bee-hive, and is carefully covered to prevent the
+escape of the vapour; red-hot stones are then placed inside, and water
+poured upon them, and the patient remains in the midst of the steam
+thus generated as long as he can bear it, then rushing out, plunges
+into the cold stream. This is said to be a sovereign remedy for
+rheumatism, and the natives have recourse to it in all cases of severe
+pain: I myself witnessed its efficacy in a case of paralysis.
+
+The salubrity of the climate, however, renders disease of every kind
+extremely rare, except such as are caused by the excesses of the
+natives themselves. The venereal is very common, and appears to have
+been indigenous. At their feasts they gorge themselves to such a
+degree as to endanger their lives; after a feast many of the guests
+continue ill for a considerable time, yet this does not prevent them
+from gormandizing again whenever an opportunity presents itself. Old
+and young, male and female, are subject to severe inflammation in the
+eyes, chiefly, I believe, from their passing the winter in hovels
+underground, which have no outlet for the smoke, and passing from them
+into the glare of sunshine upon the snow. What with the confined smoke
+and tainted atmosphere of these abominable burrows, I found it painful
+to remain even for a few minutes in them.
+
+It has been remarked by those who first settled in the district, that
+the Indians are rapidly decreasing in numbers since their arrival--a
+fact which does not admit of a doubt: I myself have seen many villages
+and encampments without an inhabitant. But what can be the cause of
+it? Here there has been neither rum nor small-pox--the scourges of
+this doomed race in other parts. Yet, on the banks of the Columbia,
+which, when first visited by the whites a few years ago, literally
+swarmed with Indians, a disease broke out which nearly exterminated
+them. Has the fiat, then, gone forth, that the aboriginal inhabitants
+of America shall make way for another race of men? To my mind, at
+least, the question presents not the shadow of a doubt. The existence
+of the present race of Indians at some future, and by no means distant
+period, will only be known through the historical records of their
+successors.
+
+The Takellies do not use canoes on their hunting excursions, so
+that they are necessitated to carry all their conveniences on their
+backs; and it is astonishing to see what heavy loads they can carry,
+especially the women, on whom the transport duty generally devolves.
+Among this tribe, however, the women are held in much higher
+consideration than among other Indians: they assist at the councils,
+and some ladies of distinction are even admitted to the feasts. This
+consideration they doubtless owe to the efficient aid they afford
+in procuring the means of subsistence. The one sex is as actively
+employed during the fishing season as the other. The men construct
+the weirs, repair them when necessary, and capture the fish; the
+women split them up--a most laborious operation when salmon is
+plentiful--suspend them on the scaffolds, attend to the drying, &c.
+They also collect berries, and dig up the edible roots that are found
+in the country, and which are of great service in years of scarcity.
+Thus the labour of the women contributes as much to the support of the
+community as that of the men.
+
+The men are passionately addicted to gambling, staking everything they
+possess, and continuing at it night and day, until compelled to desist
+by sheer hunger, or by the loss of all. I could not understand their
+game; we, in fact, used our best endeavours to abolish the pernicious
+custom, and, to avoid countenancing it, were as seldom present as
+possible. It is played with a few small sticks, neatly carved, with a
+certain number of marks upon them, tied up in a small bundle of hay,
+which the player draws out successively, throws up and catches between
+his hands; and when all are drawn, they are taken up one by one, and
+dashed against a piece of parchment, and rolled up again in the hay.
+
+The whole party appear merry enough at the commencement of the game,
+all joining chorus in a song, and straining their lungs to such
+a degree, that hoarseness soon ensues, when they continue their
+amusement in silence. When the game is ended, some of them present
+a sad spectacle; coming forth, their hair dishevelled, their eyes
+bloodshot, and faces ghastly pale, with probably nothing to cover
+their nakedness, save perhaps an old siffleux robe, which the winner
+may be generous enough to bestow. They never shoot or hang themselves,
+let their luck be ever so bad, but sometimes shoot the winning party.
+
+Dogs, if not held sacred, are at least as much esteemed by them as
+their own kindred. I have known an instance of a quadruped of the
+cynic sect being appointed successor to a biped chief, and discharging
+the duties of his office with the utmost gravity and decorum;
+appearing at the feast given in honour of his deceased predecessor,
+and furnishing his quota--(this of course by proxy)--of the
+provisions. This dog-chief was treated by his owner with as much
+regard as if he had been his child! All, indeed, treat their dogs
+with the greatest respect, calling them by the most endearing
+epithets:--"Embark, my son;" "Be quiet, my child;" "Don't bark at the
+white men, they will not harm you."
+
+The lewdness of the Carrier women cannot possibly be carried to a
+greater excess. They are addicted to the most abominable practices;
+abandoning themselves in early youth to the free indulgence of their
+passions, they soon become debilitated and infirm; and there can be no
+doubt that to this monstrous depravity the depopulation of the country
+may, in part, be ascribed.
+
+They never marry until satiated with indulgence; and if the woman then
+should be dissatisfied with the restraint of the conjugal yoke, the
+union, by mutual consent, is dissolved for a time; both then betake
+themselves to their former courses. The woman, nevertheless, dare
+not, according to law, take another husband during this temporary
+separation. Whoever infringes this law, forfeits his life to the
+aggrieved party, if he choose, or dare to take it.
+
+Polygamy is allowed; but only one of the women is considered as the
+wife. The most perfect harmony seems to subsist among them. When the
+favourite happens to be supplanted by a rival, she resigns her place
+without a murmur, well pleased if she can only enjoy the countenance
+of her lord in a subordinate situation. Yet a rupture does sometimes
+occur, when the repudiated party not unfrequently destroys herself.
+Suicides were frequent among the females in the neighbourhood of Fort
+Alexandria.
+
+The Takellies are a sedentary people, remaining shut up in their huts
+during the severer part of the winter. You may then approach a camp
+without perceiving any sign of its vicinity, until you come upon
+their well, or one of their salmon _caches_. They are very social,
+congregating at each other's huts, and passing their time talking or
+sleeping. When awake, their tongues are ever in motion,--all bawling
+out at the same time; and it has often surprised me how they could
+possibly make themselves understood in the midst of such an uproar.
+
+All Indians with whom I have come in contact, Christian as well as
+Pagan, are addicted to falsehood; but the Takellies excel; they
+are perfect adepts in the art, telling their stories with such an
+appearance of truth, that even those who know them well are often
+deceived. They were the greatest thieves in the world when the whites
+first settled among them. The utmost vigilance failed to detect them.
+Some of our people have been known to have their belts taken off them,
+without perceiving it till too late; and many a poor fellow, after
+passing a night in one of their encampments, has been obliged to pass
+the remainder of the winter with but half a blanket--the other half
+having been cut off while he slept.
+
+Theft, however, is not quite so prevalent as formerly; and, strange
+to say, no Indians can be more honest in paying their debts. It would
+indeed be desirable that this credit system, long since introduced,
+were abolished; but if this were done, the natives would carry the
+greater part of their hunts to another quarter. Some of the natives
+of the coast, having become regular traders of late years, penetrate
+a considerable distance into the interior; in this manner the goods
+obtained from the Company's posts along the coast, or from foreign
+trading ships, pass from hand to hand in barter, until they eventually
+reach the borders of New Caledonia, where the trade still affords a
+very handsome profit to the native speculator.
+
+These Indians are not given to hospitality in the proper sense of
+the word. A stranger arriving among them is provided with food
+for a day only; should he remain longer, he pays for it; for that
+day's entertainment, however, the best fare is liberally furnished.
+Strangers invited to their feasts are also provided for while they
+remain.
+
+There is much more variety and melody in the airs they sing, than
+I have heard in any other part of the Indian country. They have
+professed composers, who turn their talent to good account on the
+occasion of a feast, when new airs are in great request, and are
+purchased at a high rate. They dance in circles, men and women
+promiscuously, holding each other by the hand; and keeping both feet
+together, hop a little to a side all at once, giving at the same time
+a singular jerk to their persons behind. The movement seems to be
+difficult of execution, as it causes them to perspire profusely; they,
+however, keep excellent time, and the blending of the voices of the
+men and women in symphony has an agreeable effect.
+
+The Takelly, or Carrier language is a dialect of the Chippewayan; and
+it is rather a singular fact, that the two intervening dialects of
+the Beaver Indians and Tsekanies, kindred nations, should differ more
+from the Chippewayan than the Carrier; the two latter nations being
+perfectly intelligible to each other, while the former are but
+very imperfectly understood by their immediate neighbours, the
+Chippewayans.
+
+An erroneous opinion seems to have gone abroad regarding the variety
+of languages spoken by the Indians. There are, in reality, only four
+radically distinct languages from the shores of Labrador to the
+Pacific: Sauteux, Chippewayan, Atna and Chinook. The Cree language
+is evidently a dialect of the Sauteux, similar in construction, and
+differing only in the modification of a few words. The Nascopies, or
+mountaineers of Labrador, speak a mixture of Cree and Sauteux, the
+former predominating.
+
+Along the communication from Montreal to the foot of the Rocky
+Mountains, following the Peace River route, we first meet with the
+Sauteux tribes, who extend from the Lake of the Two Mountains to Lake
+Winnipeg; then the Crees to Isle à la Crosse; after them, Crees and
+Chippewayans to Athabasca; and along the banks of Peace River, the
+Beaver Indians occupy the lower, and the Tsekanies the upper part. The
+Chippewayan is evidently the root of the Beaver, Tsekany and Carrier
+dialects; it is also spoken by a numerous tribe in the McKenzie's
+River district--the Hare Indians.
+
+On the west side of the Rocky Mountains the Carrier language is
+succeeded by the Atna, which extends along the Columbia as far down,
+as the Chinooks, who inhabit the coast. The Atna language, in its
+variety of dialects, seems to have as wide a scope as either the
+Sauteux or Chippewayan.
+
+New Caledonia is one of the richest districts in the Company's
+vast domain; its returns average about 8,000 beavers, with a fair
+proportion of other valuable furs. When the district was first
+settled, the goods required for trade were brought in by the winterers
+from Lac la Pluie, which was their dépôt. The people left the district
+as early in spring as the navigation permitted, and returned so
+late that they were frequently overtaken by winter ere they reached
+their destination. Cold, hunger, and fatigue, were the unavoidable
+consequences; but the enterprising spirit of the men of those
+days--the intrepid, indefatigable adventurers of the North-West
+Company--overcame every difficulty. It was that spirit that opened a
+communication across the broad continent of America; that penetrated
+to the frostbound regions of the Arctic circle; and that established
+a trade with the natives in this remote land, when the merchandise
+required for it was in one season transported from Montreal to within
+a short distance of the Pacific. Such enterprise has never been
+exceeded, seldom or never equalled. The outfit is now sent out from
+England by Cape Horn, to Fort Vancouver, thence it is conveyed in
+boats to Okanagan, then transported on horses' backs to Alexandria,
+the lower post of the district, whence it is conveyed in boats to Fort
+St. James.
+
+There are generally two commissioned gentlemen in this district,--a
+chief-factor and chief-trader, with six or seven clerks in charge of
+posts; and about forty men, principally Iroquois and half-breeds. The
+fare at the different posts depends entirely on local circumstances.
+In some places it is tolerable, in others, scarcely fit for dogs. For
+the year's consumption, the Company allow a clerk two bags of flour,
+sixty pounds of sugar, twelve pounds of tea, and a small quantity of
+wine and brandy. Butter is now produced in abundance in the district.
+Where there are no gardens, the men have only dried salmon,--as poor
+fare as civilized man subsists on in any part of the world. It has at
+first the same effect on most people as if they fed on Glauber salts.
+Nevertheless, the men generally continue in this wretched condition
+for many years, apparently contented and happy; the indulgence they
+find among the females being, I grieve to say, the principal
+inducement.
+
+
+
+
+END OF VOL. I.
+
+R. CLAY, PRINTER, BREAD STREET HILL.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Notes of a Twenty-Five Years' Service
+in the Hudson's Bay Territory, by John M'lean
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