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diff --git a/15171.txt b/15171.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..7223466 --- /dev/null +++ b/15171.txt @@ -0,0 +1,22985 @@ +The Project Gutenberg eBook, Journals of Travels in Assam, Burma, Bhootan, +Afghanistan and The Neighbouring Countries, by William Griffith, Edited by +John M'Clelland + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + +Title: Journals of Travels in Assam, Burma, Bhootan, Afghanistan and The +Neighbouring Countries + +Author: William Griffith + +Release Date: February 25, 2005 [eBook #15171] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII) + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK JOURNALS OF TRAVELS IN ASSAM, +BURMA, BHOOTAN, AFGHANISTAN AND THE NEIGHBOURING COUNTRIES*** + + + +This eBook was produced by Les Bowler from the 1847 edition. + + + + + +JOURNALS OF TRAVELS IN ASSAM, BURMA, BHOOTAN, AFGHANISTAN AND THE +NEIGHBOURING COUNTRIES +By William Griffith. +Arranged by John M'Clelland. + + +[Sketch of William Griffith: pf.jpg] + + + + +CONTENTS. + + +Notice of the author from the Proceedings of the Linnaean Society, and +Extracts from Correspondence. + +CHAPTER + +I Proceeding with the Assam Deputation for the Examination of the +Tea Plant. + +II Journal of an Excursion in the Mishmee Mountains. + +III Tea localities in the Muttock Districts, Upper Assam. + +IV Journey from Upper Assam towards Hookum. + +V Journey from Hookum to Ava. + +VI Botanical Notes written in pencil, connected with the foregoing +Chapter. + +VII General Report on the foregoing. + +VIII Notes on descending the Irrawaddi from Ava to Rangoon, written in +pencil. + +IX Journey towards Assam. + +X Continuation of the same, with Notes on the Distribution of +Plants. + +XI Journey from Assam into Bootan, with Notes on the Distribution of +Plants. + +XII Continuation of the Journey in Bootan. + +XIII Return of the Mission from Bootan, with Meteorological +Observations, etc. + +XIV Journey with the Army of the Indus, from Loodianah to Candahar. + +XV Journey from Candahar to Cabul. + +XVI Journey from Cabul to Bamean--the Helmund and Oxus rivers. + +XVII Journey from Cabul to Jallalabad and Peshawur. + +XVIII Journey from Peshawur to Pushut. + +XIX On the Reproductive Organs of Acotyledonous plants. + +XX Journey from Pushut to Kuttoor and Barowl in Kaffiristan, and +return to Pushut and Cabul. + +XXI Journey from Cabul to Kohi-Baba. + +XXII Journey from Peshawur to Lahore. + +XXIII Journey from Lahore to Simla. + +XXIV Barometrical Heights and Latitudes of places visited throughout +Affghanistan. + + + + +LIST OF PLATES. + + +I VIEW FROM NUNKLOW + +II THE VILLAGE OF NUNKLOW + +III CAPTAIN MATHIE'S CUTCHERRY, THE BOOTAN HILLS, AND HIMALAYA + +IV THE HIMALAYA FROM RANGAGURRAH + +V BRAMAKHOOND AND FAQUEER'S ROCK + +VI THE MORI-PANEE AS IT ENTERS THE KHOOND + +VII THE DEO-PANEE AS IT ENTERS THE KHOOND + +VIII THE VALLEY OF HOOKUM + +IX MEINKHOOM + +X VIEW FROM BEESA + +XI VIEW ON THE JHEELS + +XII THE OK-KLONG ROCK + +XIII KULLONG BRIDGE + +XIV TASSGOUNG FROM UPPER KULONG + +XV CHINDUPJEE + +XVI GHUZNEE + +XVII BAMEAN IDOLS + +XVIII Map of the Khyber Pass + + + + +NOTICE OF WILLIAM GRIFFITH, from the Proceedings of the Linnaean Society, +with a few extracts from his private correspondence. + + +"WILLIAM GRIFFITH, Esq., the youngest son of the late Thomas Griffith, +was born on the 4th of March 1810, at his father's residence at Ham +Common, near Kingston-upon-Thames, in the county of Surrey. + +"He was educated for the Medical profession, and completed his studies at +the London University, where he became a pupil of Prof. Lindley, under +whose able instructions, assisted by the zealous friendship of Mr. R. H. +Solly, and in conjunction with two fellow pupils of great scientific +promise, Mr. Slack and Mr. Valentine, he made rapid progress in the +acquisition of botanical knowledge. The first public proofs that he gave +of his abilities are contained in a microscopic delineation of the +structure of the wood and an analysis of the flower of _Phytocrene_ +_gigantea_, in the third volume of Dr. Wallich's 'Plantae Asiaticae +Rariores'; and in a note on the development and structure of _Targionia_ +_hypophylla_, appended to M. de Mirbel's Dissertation on _Marchantia_ +_polymorpha_, both published in 1832. So highly were his talents as an +observer appreciated at this early period, that Dr. Wallich speaks of him +as one "whose extraordinary talents and knowledge as a botanist, entitle +him to the respect of all lovers of the science;" and M. de Mirbel +characterizes him as "jeune Anglois, tres instruit, tres zele et fort bon +observateur." + +"His note on _Targionia_ is dated Paris, April 2nd, 1832, and in the +month of May of the same year, having finished his studies at the London +University with great distinction, he sailed from England for India, +which was destined to be the scene of his future labours. He arrived at +Madras on the 24th of September, and immediately received his appointment +as Assistant-Surgeon in the service of the East India Company. + +"His first appointment in India was to the coast of Tenasserim; but in +the year 1835 he was attached to the Bengal Presidency, and was selected +to form one of a deputation, consisting of Dr. Wallich and himself as +botanists, and Mr. MacClelland as geologist, to visit and inspect the Tea- +forests (as they were called) of Assam, and to make researches in the +natural history of that almost unexplored district. + +"This mission was for Mr. Griffith the commencement of a series of +journeys in pursuit of botanical knowledge, embracing nearly the whole +extent of the East India Company's extra-peninsular possessions, and +adding large collections, in every branch of natural history, but +especially botany, to those which, under the auspices of the Indian +Government, had previously been formed. He next, under the directions of +Capt. Jenkins, the Commissioner, pushed his investigations to the utmost +eastern limit of the Company's territory, traversing the hitherto +unexplored tracts in the neighbourhood of the Mishmee mountains which lie +between Suddiya and Ava. Of the splendid collection of insects formed +during this part of his tour some account has been given by Mr. Hope in +the Transactions of the Entomological Society and in the eighteenth +volume of our own Transactions. + +"His collection of plants was also largely increased on this remarkable +journey, which was followed by a still more perilous expedition, +commenced in February of the following year, from Assam through the +Burmese dominions to Ava, and down the Irrawadi to Rangoon, in the course +of which he was reported to have been assassinated. The hardships +through which he passed during the journey and his excessive application +produced, soon after his arrival in Calcutta, a severe attack of fever: +on his recovery from which he was appointed Surgeon to the Embassy to +Bootan, then about to depart under the charge of the late Major +Pemberton. He took this opportunity of revisiting the Khasiya Hills, +among which he formed a most extensive collection; and having joined +Major Pemberton at Goalpara, traversed with him above 400 miles of the +Bootan country, from which he returned to Calcutta about the end of June +1839. In November of the same year he joined the army of the Indus in a +scientific capacity, and penetrated, after the subjugation of Cabool, +beyond the Hindoo Khoosh into Khorassan, from whence, as well as from +Affghanistan, he brought collections of great value and extent. During +these arduous journeys his health had several times suffered most +severely, and he was more than once reduced by fever to a state of +extreme exhaustion; but up to this time the strength of his constitution +enabled him to triumph over the attacks of disease, and the energy of his +mind was so great, that the first days of convalescence found him again +as actively employed as ever. + +"On his return to Calcutta in August 1841, after visiting Simla and the +Nerbudda, he was appointed to the medical duties at Malacca: but Dr. +Wallich having proceeded to the Cape for the re-establishment of his +health, Mr. Griffith was recalled in August 1842 to take, during his +absence, the superintendence of the Botanic Garden near Calcutta, in +conjunction with which he also discharged the duties of Botanical +Professor in the Medical College to the great advantage of the students. +Towards the end of 1844 Dr. Wallich resumed his functions at the Botanic +Garden. In September Mr. Griffith married Miss Henderson, the sister of +the wife of his brother, Captain Griffith, and on the 11th of December he +quitted Calcutta to return to Malacca, where he arrived on the 9th of +January in the present year. On the 31st of the same month he was +attacked by hepatitis, and notwithstanding every attention on the part of +the medical officer who had officiated during his absence, and who +fortunately still remained, he gradually sunk under the attack, which +terminated fatally on the 9th of February. "His constitution," says his +attached friend, Mr. MacClelland, in a letter to Dr. Horsfield, "seemed +for the last two or three years greatly shattered, his energies alone +remaining unchanged. Exposure during his former journeys and travels +laid the seeds of his fatal malady in his constitution, while his anxiety +about his pursuits and his zeal increased. He became care-worn and +haggard in his looks, often complaining of anomalous symptoms, marked by +an extreme rapidity of pulse, in consequence of which he had left off +wine for some years past, and was obliged to observe great care and +attention in his diet. In Affghanistan he was very nearly carried off by +fever, to which he had been subject in his former travels in Assam. No +government ever had a more devoted or zealous servant, and I impute much +of the evil consequences to his health to his attempting more than the +means at his disposal enabled him to accomplish with justice to himself." + +"The most important of Mr. Griffith's published memoirs are contained in +the Transactions of the Linnaean Society. Previous to starting on his +mission to Assam, he communicated to the Society the first two of a +series of valuable papers on the development of the vegetable ovulum in +_Santalum_, _Loranthus_, _Viscum_, and some other plants, the anomalous +structure of which appeared calculated to throw light on this still +obscure and difficult subject. These papers are entitled as follows:-- + +1. On the Ovulum of _Santalum album_. Linn. Trans. xviii. p. 57. + +2. Notes on the Development of the Ovulum of _Loranthus_ and _Viscum_; +and on the mode of Parasitism of these two genera. Linn. Trans. xviii. +p. 71. + +3. On the Ovulum of _Santalum_, _Osyris_, _Loranthus_ and _Viscum_. +Linn. Trans. xix. p. 171. + +"Another memoir, or rather series of memoirs, "On the Root-Parasites, +referred by authors to _Rhizantheae_, and on various plants related to +them," occupies the first place in the Part of our Transactions which is +now in the press, with the exception of the portion relating to +_Balanophoreae_, unavoidably deferred to the next following Part. In +this memoir, as in those which preceded it, Mr. Griffith deals with some +of the most obscure and difficult questions of vegetable physiology, on +which his minute and elaborate researches into the singularly anomalous +structure of the curious plants referred to will be found to have thrown +much new and valuable light. + +"In India, on his return from his Assamese journey, he published in the +'Transactions of the Agricultural Society of Calcutta,' a 'Report on the +Tea-plant of Upper Assam,' which, although for reasons stated avowedly +incomplete, contains a large amount of useful information on a subject +which was then considered of great practical importance. He also +published in the 'Asiatic Researches,' in the 'Journal of the Asiatic +Society of Bengal,' and in the 'Transactions of the Medical and Physical +Society of Calcutta,' numerous valuable botanical papers; but the most +important of his Indian publications are contained in the 'Calcutta +Journal of Natural History,' edited jointly by Mr. MacClelland and +himself. Of these it may be sufficient at present to refer to his memoir +"On _Azolla_ and _Salvinia_," two very remarkable plants which he has +most elaborately illustrated, and in relation to which he has entered +into some very curious speculations; and his still unfinished monograph +of "The Palms of British India," which promises to be a highly important +contribution to our knowledge of a group hitherto almost a sealed book to +European Botanists. + +"But the great object of his life, that for which all his other labours +were but a preparation, was the publication of a General Scientific Flora +of India, a task of immense extent, labour and importance. To the +acquisition of materials for this task, in the shape of collections, +dissections, drawings and descriptions, made under the most favourable +circumstances, he had devoted twelve years of unremitted exertion. His +own collections, (not including those formed in Cabool and the +neighbouring countries) he estimated at 2500 species from the Khasiya +Hills, 2000 from the Tenasserim provinces, 1000 from the province of +Assam, 1200 from the Himalaya range in the Mishmee country, 1700 from the +same great range in the country of Bootan, 1000 from the neighbourhood of +Calcutta, and 1200 from the Naga Hills at the extreme east of Upper +Assam, from the valley of Hookhoong, the district of Mogam, and from the +tract of the Irrawadi between Mogam and Ava. Even after making large +deductions from the sum-total of these numbers on account of the forms +common to two or more of the collections, the amount of materials thus +brought together by one man must be regarded as enormous. The time was +approaching when he believed that he could render these vast collections +subservient to the great end which he had in view. He had some time +since issued an invitation to many eminent botanists in Europe to +co-operate with him in the elaboration of particular families; and he +purposed after a few years' additional residence in India to return to +England with all his materials, and to occupy himself in giving to the +world the results of his unwearied labours. But this purpose was not +destined to be fulfilled, his collections have passed by his directions +into the hands of the East India Company, and there can be no doubt, from +the well-known liberality of the Directors, which this Society in +particular has so often experienced, that they will be so disposed of by +that enlightened body as to fulfil at once the demands of science and the +last wishes of the faithful and devoted servant by whom they were formed. +It is hoped too, that the most important of his unpublished materials, +both in drawings and manuscripts, will be given to the world in a manner +worthy of the author and of the rank in science which he +filled."--_Proceedings of the Linnaean Society_, No. xxv, 1845. + +To the foregoing brief sketch which was read before the Linnaean Society +at the Anniversary Meeting 24th May 1845, it is scarcely necessary to +make any addition. It is worthy of remark however, as showing how +talents sometimes run in families, that Mr. Griffith was great grandson +of Jeremiah Meyer, Historical Painter to George the Second, and one of +the founders of the Royal Academy. It is also but fair to state on the +present occasion, that he was not himself the only member of the family +who would appear to have inherited something of his grandfather's +peculiar art, as we owe the transfer of the landscapes to stone, which +add so much to the appearance of the following volume, to the talent and +kindness of his sister. + +It may perhaps be acceptable in this place to afford a few extracts from +the private letters of Mr. Griffith, especially those in which he adverts +with a liberality of feeling to his contemporaries, no less honourable to +himself than to the persons mentioned. + +The following notes addressed to his uncle, at various periods, exhibit +the sentiments with which he regarded the late Mr. Bauer not merely as an +artist, but original observer. + +* * * * * + +_From letters of Mr. GRIFFITH, to Mr. MEYER_. + + _Mergui_: _January 17th_, 1835. + +"My last accounts of Mr. Bauer state him to have been in excellent +health: he had just completed some more of his unrivalled drawings." + +* * * * * + + _Suddya_: _December 30th_, 1836. + +"Pray give the compliments of the season to Mr. Bauer, to whom I look up +with the greatest admiration: what a pity it is for science that such a +life as his is not renewable _ad libitum_. Tell him that I have a +beautiful new genus allied to Rafflesia, the flowers of which are about a +span across, it is dioecious and icosandrous, and has an abominable +smell. How I look back occasionally on my frequent and delightful visits +to Kew." + +* * * * * + +To MRS. H---. + + _Serampore_, _Calcutta_: _July 22nd_, +1841. + +"I was aware of the departure of Mr. Bauer through the _Athenaeum_, in +which an excellent notice of him appeared. He certainly was a man to +whom I looked up with constant admiration: he was incomparable in several +respects, and I am happy to find, that his death was so characteristic of +his most inoffensive and meritorious life. It is also very pleasing to +me to find that he continued to think well of me. How I should have been +able to delight him had he lived a few years longer." + +* * * * * + + _Calcutta_: _June_, 1843. + +"Poor Mr. Bauer, we never shall see his like again, I have seen but few +notices of his life, which assuredly is worthy of study. There is not a +place I shall visit with better feelings than Kew, it has so many +pleasant associations even from my school-days." + +* * * * * + + _Calcutta_: _December 31st_, 1843. + +"Mr. Bauer is not half appreciated yet; he is considered a very great +artist, but what is that to what he was? But he did not fight for his +own hand, though he worked hard enough in all conscience. Mr. Bauer in +fact preceded all in the train of discovery: he saw in 1797, what others +did not see till 30 years after. For instance, the elongation of the +pollens' inner membrane into a tube, the first step towards the +_complete_ knowledge we now have of vegetable embryogeny. Unfortunately, +Mr. Bauer drew, but did not write, and when I recall to mind a remark of +Mr. Brown, that it was a disadvantage to be able to draw, I always fancy +he had Bauer in his mind's eye; for had he been a writer and not a +drawer, before 1800, in great probability we should have known nearly as +much of embryogeny as we do now. But he shut his portfolio, and folks +went on believing the old fovivillose doctrine and bursting of the +pollen, which, his observations of the pollens' inner membrane, would +have destroyed at once. Then with regard to Orchideae and Asclepiadeae, +he was equally in advance: it would be a rich treat if some one would +come forward and publish a selection from his drawings, without a word of +letterpress." + +* * * * * + + _Calcutta_: _February 11th_, 1844. + +"Mr. Bauer's light is not yet set on the hill. Really when I look back +at his works I am lost in admiration, and always regret that he worked +more for others than for himself, and that he did not use his pen as +freely as he did his brush. When, in the name of all that is generous, +will great men think that true greatness consist in endeavouring to make +others more prominent than themselves?" + +For some years before his death, Mr. Griffith would appear to have had a +presentiment that he would not be spared to complete the description of +all his collections. On one occasion, when enumerating those who might +contribute most efficiently to this object, in the event of its not being +permitted to himself, he writes:-- + +"I cannot however refrain from paying my tribute of respect to Mr. George +Bentham, the most industrious, perspicuous, and philosophical Botanist +who has systematically contributed to lessen the difficulties under which +Indian Botanists have generally suffered. + +"There are a few others from whom the sincerity of friendship fully +warrants me in expecting every possible assistance: of these Dr. Wight is +already well known, and others are rising rapidly to fill, I hope, the +highest Botanical stations when these shall have been vacated by the +leviathans who now occupy them. Let not the cynic accuse me of +partiality when I mention the names of William Valentine, of Decaisne, +and C. M. Lemann." + +He also delighted to speak and write in terms of the warmest regard of +those to whom he was indebted for facilities in his pursuits. To Lord +Auckland he invariably alluded in terms of the deepest gratitude--"Under +his Lordship's patronage" he remarks on one occasion, "I have received +such advantages as make me ashamed of the little I have done, and which +are constantly holding up before me my deficiencies in many branches of +enquiry connected with the physiology and distribution of plants." + +* * * * * + +The following letters are quoted chiefly for the additional information +they afford on the subject of his travels and pursuits. His letters to +Botanists would of course be more important and interesting. + +* * * * * + + _Suddyah_: _16th September_, 1836. + +"I am anxiously awaiting the arrival of the cold weather, as on the 1st +of November I hope to accompany ----- to Ava, but in the meantime, I +intend proceeding in search of the tea plant to the Mishmee Hills, +especially about Bramakoond, where it is reported to grow. If I find it +there, I will endeavour to trace it up into the mountains, which form due +east of this an amphitheatre of high rugged peaks." + +* * * * * + + _November 1st_, 1836. + +"I here write from the foot of the 'dreaded' Mishmee Hills. I left +Suddyah on the 15th October, and have already been to Bramakoond, where I +spent three days. I miss you much; you would have been delighted with +the place, which is nothing but rocks and hills. I am recruiting my +resources for a movement into the interior of the hills, in which I shall +follow Wilcox's route, taking with me 15 coolies, for whom I am +collecting grain. I have already made considerable collections, chiefly +however in Botany, with a few stones and birds. I hope before my return +to have seen Coptis teeta in flower, and to have proved that the Beese is +different from that of Nepal. I have already seen numbers of the +Mishmees who are civil people. I have however had great difficulties +with the Chief of the Khond, who though apparently friendly, will, I +fear, do all he can to hinder me from getting to Ghaloom, with the Gham +of which place I wish to have a conference." + +* * * * * + + _Noa Dihing Mookh_: _January 20th_, +1837. + +"I have just returned from the trip to the Lohit much sooner than I +expected. I saw nothing of any consequence except rapids which are +horrid things, and make one quite nervous. I made a beautiful collection +on the Mishmee mountains, of which more anon. Many of the plants are +very interesting. I was however worked very hard, all my people being +sick: I had even to wash my own clothes, but I fear you will think I am +grumbling: so good-bye." + +* * * * * + + _Loodianah_: _11th December_, 1838. + +"I arrived here in 14.5 days, notwithstanding some delays on the road, +and have put up with Cornet Robinson, Acting Political Agent. I am not +pleased with the up-country, and would rather live in Bengal, for I +cannot abide sandy plains and a deficiency of vegetation. Loodianah is a +curious place, very striking to a stranger, the town is large, built +under official direction, and consequently well arranged in comparison +with native towns: there is much trade carried on in it, and it has the +usual bustle of a large town. + +"Capt. Wade's house is well situated on a rising ground, and the demesne +is a pretty one. Otherwise the country is ugly enough, and very bare, +yet it is here well wooded, in comparison with what I hear of Ferozepore. +Along the face of the hill near the town, a nullah flows, abounding in +fish, of which more anon. The rock pigeons, or grouse, are very +abundant, and there are two species, one remarkable for the elongated +side-feathers of the tail. Both are beautiful birds, but very difficult +of access. Crows, kites, vultures, adjutants, herons, Drongoles, +sparrows, parrots, etc. remain as before, but most of the less common +birds are different from those to the south; the most European are +genuine starlings; and, to my memory of eight years back, identical with +those of Europe. I have already got thirty to forty species of fish. +Cyprinidae, are by far the most common; one loach, and one of +Macrognathus. + +"But as they are all from one water, viz. the neighbouring nullah, and +the Sutledge being five miles off, I shall put them all into bottles, and +send them off before I leave this. The most edible fish, and one of the +most common is the Roh, but it is not the Roh of Bengal, and might well +be called Cyprinus ruber. Burnes has given I think a drawing of it, +which is faithful as to colour. All the forms will be familiar to you, +but I hope there will be some new species. + +"I have made further arrangements, and such as will give you a good +insight into the fish of the Sutledge, as to the number of duplicates!--it +is the safest plan for an ignoramus not to discriminate too nicely. I am +to-day to get large specimens of the Kalabans, Rohi, etc. what a splendid +fish the Rohi is, both to look at and to eat. There are two or three +species of the transparent _Chandas_, and three or four Perilamps, six or +eight Siluridae, besides the Gwali, which is too large; of Ophiocephalus +two or three, exclusive of the Sowli, but all ought to be examined, as +there is no relying on native discrimination. There is a curious animal +here burrowing like a mole, but more like a rat: of this I have not yet +got a specimen, although they are very common. + +"I commence with a list of the fish of this place. I have only to +mention that several species are confounded under the name Bhoor, all the +Chandras under Chunda Begla, Loaches under Pote, all the Perilamps except +the Chulwa, which may be from its flavour a _Clupeia_, etc. The fact is, +that the fishermen are aware of genera, but not of species, excepting +when the distinctive marks are very strong. The fisherman enumerates +forty species, but I have only twenty-six, I have promised him one rupee +when he completes the list: + + Native Name. Family. General size. + +1. Khaila, ) ( 6. +2. Bhoor, ) ( mature. +3. Rewa, ) Cyprins, ( mature. +4. Bangun, ) ( 18 inches, called also Kala Bhans. + +5. Chund Bigla, mature. +6. Ditto ditto, ditto. +7. Ditto ditto, ditto. +8. Pote, Loach, ditto. +9. Mailoa, Perilamps, ditto. +10. Khurda, ditto Trichopterus? +11. Puttra, Salurida, 20 seers. +12. Kuttoa, Ditto, 6 inches. + +13. Ghichila,) Macrognathus( 7 ditto. +14. Bham, ) ( 3 feet. + +15. Nunghree,) ( 6 inches. +16. Nowhan, ) Cyprins, ( ditto. +17. Pootea, ) ( 12 inches. + +18. Seengh, Silurida, 8 inches. +19. Bugarlea, ditto. +20. Mootunna, nearly mature. +21. Bardul, 6 inches. +22. Chilwa, Perilamp,? mature. +23. Nuwha, Esox, ditto. + +24. Gwalee, ) Silurus, ( 2 maunds, +25. Ruttgull,) ( nearly mature. + +26. Chundee Clupeia, ditto ditto. + +* * * * * + + _Candahar_: _May the 2nd_, 1839. + +"We have seen three changes in the geological structure of the country. + +"The Khojah Omrah was chiefly clay slate, and we are now in another +formation, which no one seems to know; but it must be different as the +outlines of the hills are completely changed. We are now 3,500 feet +above the sea. The climate is good, and would be delightful in a good +house, but in tents the thermometer varies from 60 to 98 degrees and even +105 degrees. + +"I have got a decent collection of plants, only amounting however to 650 +species. The flora continues quite European. I have some of singular +interest. Compositae, Cruciferae, and Gramineae form the bulk of the +vegetation. All fish are very different from those below the Ghats. I +have five or six species of Cyprinidae. One very inimitable fuscous +loach. There are few birds, and fewer quadrupeds; in fact the country is +at a minimum in both these respects." + +* * * * * + + _Ghuzni_: _July 25th_, 1839. + +"We have been gradually ascending since leaving Candahar, and are here at +an elevation of 7,600 feet. The same features continue. I have as yet +not more than 850 species. The mountains on every side, and indeed the +whole face of the country, is still bare. Mookloor, a district through +which we passed, about seventy miles from this, is well cultivated and +inhabited. There are few birds to be seen, and scarcely any insects, but +there are numerous lizards. The thermometer varies in tents from 60 to +90 degrees." + +* * * * * + + _Cabul_: _August 11th_, 1839. + +"I am encamped close to Baber's tomb, lulled by the sound of falling +water, and cooled with the shade of poplar and sycamore trees, with +abundance of delicious fruit, and altogether quite happy for the nonce. I +have not yet seen the town which is a strange place, buried in gardens: +but nothing can exceed the rich cultivation of the valley in which we are +encamped. Beautiful fields on every side, with streamlets, rich verdure, +poplars, willows, and bold mountain scenery, which contrasts most +favourably with the dreary barren tracts to which we have been +accustomed. I go with the Engineers to Bamean in the course of a few +days, when we shall cross ridges of 12,000 to 13,000 feet high. + +"I can only find three kinds of fish in this neighbourhood. I have been +making some drawings, and collecting a few plants which continue to be +entirely European." + +* * * * * + + _Peshawur_: _November 17th_, 1839. + +"I hope some day or other to turn out a real traveller. I am now in +hopes of becoming a decent surveyor, and before many years have passed a +decent meteorologist. I leave the Army here, and shall part with it, +particularly Thomson and Durand of the Engineers, with regret. I start +in a short time to travel up the Indus with little before me but +difficulties, however _a la renommee_. If I can do something +unparalleled in the travelling way I shall be content for a year or two +at least. + +"I have obtained some few specimens of fossil shells from the shingly +beds of the Khyber Pass. They seem to be a Spirifer with a very square +base, quite different from the common species of the Bolan Pass, which is +like a large cockle, and of which I have one beautiful specimen. How I +regret not seeing Bukkur, for with a few days' leisure, a number of +fossils might be obtained. The older I grow the less content am I +scientifically: would that I had received a mathematical education. I +was much interested with some quotations from Lyell's Elements in a late +_Calcutta Courier_, especially about the Marine Saurian from the +Gallepagos. What further proof can be wanted of the maritime and insular +nature of the world during the reigns of the Saurian reptiles? What more +conclusive can be expected about the appearance of new species? This +point would at once be settled if the formation of these islands can be +proved not to have been contemporaneous with the Continents. Then the +animal nature of chalk! + +"I am doing nothing in botany, but learning Persian, and the use of the +theodolite, with nothing but difficulties to look at all around. I begin +to feel of such importance, (do not think me conceited in relation to my +collections and information on geographical botany,) that I am not +overpleased with the idea of facing dangers alone: however I suppose +every thing is as usual exaggerated." + +* * * * * + + _Bamean_: _August 3rd_, 1840. + +"Yesterday I crossed the Hindoo-koosh by my former route, and this +morning while out, i.e. trout fishing, was most agreeably interrupted by +the post. The fishing was ended forthwith. Indeed the sun in this +country even at elevations of 12,000 feet is very hot, and has excoriated +my hands, beautifully white as they were after my sickness, but not +before I had caught 3 barbels, evidently different from those of the +other side of the range. I caught some trout yesterday evening, it is a +most beautiful fish, I was particularly struck with the size of the eye, +its prominence, and expressive pupil, in opposition to the sluggishness +of the eyes of carps. + +"It is strange that Botany has always been the most favoured of the +natural sciences, it is strange that in spite of what all do say it is +the least advanced of any. How can I reconcile my own splendid +opportunities with those of more deserving naturalists in other branches? +and I would willingly share them on the principle of common fairness with +others, who I know would turn them to a better account. Oreinus takes +the worm greedily; in the Helmund, 11,000 feet above the sea, it is +abundant. It is the same species I think as that in the Cabul river; but +in the Cabul river, Barbus is the predominant fish: in the Helmund it is +the reverse. How can one account for the small elevation at which fish +are found in the Himalayan? I cannot imagine it is owing as some think +to the relative impetuosity of the rivers, which after all is only an +assumption. + +"This Bamean valley is the strangest place imaginable, its barrenness and +the variegated colours of the rocks convey the idea of its volcanic +origin, and give it a look as if it had come out of the furnace. I +cannot make out where the stones so universally found all over the slopes +of the mountains, came from, for very generally they seem water-worn. I +find no great peculiarity in the flora of this side of the range, except +an abundance of odd-looking Chenopodiaceous plants, probably resulting +from the saline saturation of the soil. There is a very singular spring +on the other side of the range, about 11,000 feet above the sea: the +water very clear, with no remarkable taste, but every thing around is +covered with a deposit of a highly ferruginous powder. I shall write +next from the fossil locality, which is said to be about forty miles from +this. I am as stout as ever, but by no means so strong." + +* * * * * + + _Bamean_: _August 21st_, 1840. + +"I am now out of the region of trees, excepting a poplar, of which I will +send you a bit, as the same tree grows in much lower places. The want of +rings in wood is by no means unusual in tropical vegetation. For the +production of rings, some annual check to vegetation is required: their +absence is particularly frequent in climbers. The walnut will not be a +good instance, because even if you can get it from Java, it is a tree +that requires cold, and must consequently be found at considerable +altitudes. Your instances must be taken from subjects that can bear a +great range of climate: you have some in the apricot, vine, etc. I will +not fail in sending you what you want from Cabul, and also from Peshawur, +in which almost the extremes of temperature can be contrasted. I will +also get the woods of apricots, cherries, etc., at the highest elevations +on my road back, as I hope to pass through the grand fruit country of +Affghanistan. No Jungermannias are obtainable in this part, nor anywhere +indeed, except towards the true Himalayas. I do not remember having seen +the pomegranate growing at Cabul: the place is too cold for it. I think +however, I can get some from Khujjah, where snow lies in winter. I leave +for the Provinces early in October, and shall travel 30 miles a day. I +want to get to Seharunpore, 15 or 20 days in advance of my time, as I +must run up to Mussoorie and fish in the Dhoon. I shall be in Calcutta +in all February." + +* * * * + + _Cabul_: _September 26th_, 1840. + +"I despatch to-morrow the first of the bits of wood, the duplicates will +be sent on the 28th or 29th: on this latter day I leave for Peshawur, and +right glad am I that the time has come at last. I will send you the same +woods from Peshawur, but shall scarcely be able to send you pomegranate +from any thing like a cold place. + +"On receiving your specimens of vine, the following question occurred to +me. If wood is a deposit from the leaves or fibres sent down from the +leaves, how is the presence of wood to be accounted for in tendrils, +which have no leaves, but yet which are evidently branches? The theory +of the formation of wood, which considers it as above, is deemed +ingenious, but it will not I think be found to be true. The bark +evidently has a great deal to say to the matter. + +"I shall be most rejoiced at a remote prospect of again setting to work. +I take no interest now in the vegetation of this country. I hope to be +at Loodianah _early_ in November; my present intention is to run up to +Simla, thence to Mussoorie, and descend on Seharunpore. If I do this, I +shall only leave one point unfinished, and that is the Hindoo-koosh +Proper, where however I shall have the advantage of Major Sanders of the +Engineers, who will pick up a few plants for me. I wish much to take +notes of the vegetation about Simla and Mussoorie, this I can do at a bad +season. I shall afterwards be able to compare the Himalayan chain at +very distant points." + +* * * * * + + _Serampore_, -- 1841. + +"I will send you to-morrow dissections of Santalum if I can get a small +bottle for them: under .5 inch lens you can easily open the pistillum of +Santalum having previously removed the perianth: it is a concial body; +you must take care to get it out entire, especially at the base, then +place it in water, and dissect off the ovula of which there are three or +four, as per sketch. I shall not say what I see, as I want to have your +original opinion unbiassed, etc.; but whenever you see the tubes with +filaments adhering to their apices, pray mark attentively what takes +place, both at the point and at the place where the tube leaves the +ovulum; your matchless 1/1500 would do the thing. Try iodine with all +such, after having examined them in water. + +"Should you find any difficulty in dissecting away the ovula, light +pressure under glass will relieve you. I shall be very anxious to know +what your opinion is, particularly with regard to the tubes and all +adhering filaments; the question now occupying botanists, being this, is +the embryo derived directly from the boyau or is it derived from some +parts of the ovulum? + +"I hope you can understand these sketches." + +* * * * * + + _Peshawur_: _13th December_, 1839. + +"What a shame it is that botanists should know nothing whatever of the +formation and structure of wood! They look at a section of a piece of +oak, and imagine they have discovered the secret, and write volumes on +this imagination, yet they have been told over and over again, that +nothing is to be learnt on such subjects without beginning at the +commencement, which they are too idle to do. To name an abominable +Aster, is among them of much higher importance than to discover the cause +of the growth of wood. Medullary rays are most difficult, because they +are very often deficient particularly in climbers. I am horridly idle, +and yet what can I do without books; yet with regard to books, the more +originality we possess, the less we require them? There is nothing to be +got here except a few marsh plants coming into flower. One beautiful +Chara, which might disclose the secret, had I good glasses, it is a most +graceful pellucid form, an undescribed duckweed, a floating +Marchantiaceae. Would that I was settled with a Ross on one hand, and a +Strongstein on the other, around my collections with good health and good +spirits. Tell ---- I have in view the division of the vegetable kingdom +analagous to radiata, they include all the Marchantiaceae, and are, to +all intents and purposes, Vegetable Radiata." + +* * * * * + + _Pushut_, _1st march beyond Kooner_: +_January 29th_, 1840. + +"This will be a letter of odds and ends, you know I was to return to +Jallalabad; well I reached that place, but left the encampment and +crossed the river, where an advance road making partly for the Kooner +expedition were employed, and having originally determined on going to +Kooner, I accompanied them two marches, when they were overtaken by the +army, to avoid which, I halted one day, and on the next proceeded onwards +by the north bank of the river, thus saving all the fords of this horrid +river. I should call it beautiful at any other season. The road was +bad, and the last one and a half mile into camp most difficult, the path +winding round and over spurs of sharp limestone rocks which must have had +abundance of silex in them they were so very hard. At the very worst +part, my headman being in front, all of a sudden I heard three shots in +quick succession with the usual hallooing, and then I was called on in +advance, meeting my headman wounded: he has lost the two fore-fingers of +his right hand. All I saw was three men scrambling up the face of the +hill, on whom I opened a fire as soon as my guns came up, and had the +pleasure of hitting one on the shield. + +"Such a scene ensued! for when there are three or four on such occasions +we may reasonably expect thirty or forty, and my object was to get out of +the bad road, and so be close to camp. Some of, or rather all, my people +became dismayed, I had therefore to cheer, to point my double barrels, +and in fact to enact a whole legion. One fellow tried to shoot me but +his powder proved faithful, the others were wounded: however they kept in +sight, and to make matters worse, in one place within twenty yards, six +or seven of my loads were thrown; evening drawing on, and prospects +disgusting, when at last having passed over one bad part and got down +into a ravine, a number of people were seen closing down on us, but my +man had run off to camp, and by shouts succeeded in calling five or six +_sepahis_, part of the rear-guard, to our relief, and so we escaped bag +and baggage, the rascals making off when the red coats appeared. I was +sick at heart at the loss of poor Abdool Rozak's fingers: he is an Arab +with an English heart, bearing his loss most manfully, and when his +fingers were removed expressed anxiety alone about me and my _Sundoogs_ +(collections). Well then, where should I have been had I been assailed +as Abdool Rozak was, I should have been unprepared, and if riding, my +mare would certainly have jumped into the river beneath. Thomson {0a} +said when he left me, G---, you are rash and Abdool Rozak is rash, take +care or you will get into trouble. My moving about without a guard was +imprudent, and I now return to Jallalabad to get one, or if not +successful to wait there until the spring and its floral excitements call +me out: what I dislike is danger without any recompense, not a flower is +to be had; with excitement it is nothing. I have now had two escapes, +one from the buffalo in Assam, and this, which is a greater one, because +had not the army been delayed by accident at the ford, it would have been +eight or ten miles in advance, and consequently there would have been no +rear-guard at hand. + +"The country is disturbed, and one can only stir out in the valley itself +close to camp, which is the more tantalizing as the mountains are +accessible, and covered with forest. Our halt here should put us in +possession of much information respecting these forests. As it is, I +shall leave probably as wise as I came, except in having ascertained that +the change from the well-wooded Himalaya mountains to those of the Hindoo- +koosh, without even a shrub five feet high, takes place to the east of +this. My employment is surveying and collecting data for ascertaining +the heights of the hills around. But wherever I turn, the question +suggests itself, what business have I here collecting plants, with so +many in Calcutta demanding attention? How I am living! alone, without a +table, chair, wine, or spirits, with a miserable beard, and in native +clothes! but one thus saves much time; how unfortunate that mine now is +not worth saving! + +"I have been reading Swainson's volumes in Lardner's Cyclopaedia, in +which there is a little to which severe critics may object, but a vast +deal more that is beautifully sound. I am quite certain I never +appreciated them before. How wonderful that no one before Macleay and +Swainson thought that living beings were created on one plan. I have +imbibed all the important parts with the hope of bringing them to bear on +Botany, which is in a shameful state. One talks of the typical nature of +polypetalous or monopetalous plants; another ridicules the idea, because +as he wisely says, some polypetalous plants are monopetalous, and vice +versa!! he objects, in fact to what constitutes the great value of a +character, _its mode of variation_. All Swainson's propositions +appear to me philosophical and highly probable, but none of the present +generation have eyes young enough to bear such a flood of light as he has +thrown upon them. There are faults I acknowledge, but a man who writes +for money does not always write for fame; rapid writing and much more +rapid publishing is a vast evil, but one which is too often unavoidable. +I have four or five drawings of fish, one of the spotted carnivorous +carp, the most carnivorous type of all except Opsarion, and perhaps a new +subgenus; {0b} one of the Sir-i-Chushme and Khyber _Oreinus_, and a +Perilamp with two long cirrhi on the upper lip. I intend in my travels +now I am alone, to stop at every fertile place. I am ascertaining the +limit of the inferior snow in these latitudes, which I fancy will be +3,500 feet. Is it not curious that here 1,000 feet above Jallalabad we +have had no snow, while at Jallalabad there has been abundance. I +attribute it to the narrowness of the valley at this place, and to the +forest. When I glance at the subject of botanical geography, how +astounding appears our ignorance! we have no data, except to determine +the mere temperature and amount of rain yet men will persist in the rage +for imperfect description of undescribed species, and pay no attention to +what is one of the most important agents in preserving things as they are +in our planet,--i.e. vegetation. On this point Swainson is less happy +than on others when he ascribes such importance to temperature, and +points out the fact that countries in the same latitudes, and having the +same temperatures, produce different animals." + +* * * * * + + _Cabul_, _September 25th_, 1839. + +"I am just on the eve of re-entering Cabul from a visit to Bamean, a +singular place on the other side of the Hindoo-koosh, celebrated for its +idols and caves. It has amply repaid a march of 106 miles and back +again. I never saw a more singular place, and never enjoyed myself more: +we crossed several high ridges between 11 and 13,000 feet, but so poor is +the flora that I have only added 200 species to my catalogue, now +amounting to 1200 species instead of 2,400 as I fully expected. But I +must say I was as much pleased at the acquisition of a genuine _Salmo_ in +the Bamean river (which is a tributary of the Oxus,) as at any thing. + +"Unfortunately we were so hurried, that I had only one afternoon and that +an unfavourable one, for indulging in my fishing propensities: the chief +fish seems to come very near the English trout, and so far as I can +judge, is not found on this side the Himalaya. The other fish of these +rivers are a fine Schizothorax or Oreinus, allied to the _Adoee_, a flat- +headed Siluroid, a loach, and a small Cyprinus. This is a singular +country, quite unlike any thing I have seen, and as distinct from the +Himalaya in its vegetation, etc. as can well be imagined. Generally it +is very barren, and after travelling over so much of the country I have +yet seen only three parts of it decently cultivated. It is reported to +be rich in minerals. + +"But it will never bear comparison with Hindoostan. It is however +capable of much improvement. It consists of a succession of barren +valleys, divided from each other by barren ridges, and is generally +deficient in the great fertilizer of all things--water. There is +scarcely an indigenous tree in the whole country, and generally very few +cultivated ones, except about Cabul, although they have poplars and +willows well suited to the climate. It has been subjected to so much +misrule that the natives have become indifferent to its improvement, (if +they ever felt alive to any such interest.) The Zoology is very poor, +quite at zero. There is a species of Ibex, an _Ovis_, and a _Capra_, +which from the frequency of their heads and horns about sacred places and +gateways of towns, must be common; but I have never seen more than a +portion of one fresh specimen of the sheep. Furs are brought from the +Hindoo-koosh, but are all too mutilated to be of any use, except to a +Zoologist with antiquarian eyes: one Jerboa. Hares are rather common in +some parts, and about here there is a Lagomys. Of birds there are but +few, but as the vegetation is chiefly vernal, these creatures may perhaps +be abundant. The game birds are quail, three species of partridge, a +huge Ptarmigan? Pterocles of Loodianah. The fauna is richest in Saurian +reptiles, and of these one might make a very good collection. I have +only seen two snakes, and both are I believe lost." + +* * * * * + + _Mirzapore_: _April 26th_, 1841. + +"Request --- to refrain from abusing compound microscopes. Why should +not compound and simple microscopes each have their merits? Valentine, +who is a great authority, and an unrivalled dissector, says, the simple +lens must be suspended. I only wish I could dissect with a compound +microscope: what things might not one get access to. The simple lens is +quite useless with opaque objects; it only does for transmitted light. +Now dissections of opaque objects have been too much neglected. How odd +it is that all improvements are ridiculed at first. + +"I enclose a bit of Sphagnam, a curious moss, with curious incomplete +spiral cells in the leaves. I dare say it will bear preservation in +Canada balsam. I have received a new microscope, a queer-looking thing, +very portable; one object glass of a quarter inch focus, by Ross; two eye- +pieces magnifying linearly 200 to 300 times. I have put it up, but I am +not well enough to decide on its merits. Now that I have arranged all my +things, I am literally frightened at the work I have to do. + +"I am quite annoyed at the idea that German artists make better +microscopes than English. I was aware that the lenses were better, but +otherwise I imagined that any comparison would be vastly in our favour. I +am curious to know the price, and where to apply for one, as your account +makes me quite ashamed of mine. Who knows what a fine penetrating power +of 1100 may not disclose. I am very much pleased with your idea of +anointing cuts with nitrate of silver; this hint I will bear in mind. + +"I enclose the first list of fish, No. 2, not that it is of much +use.--What nonsense it is to collect without knowledge. + +No. Native Name. Family. REMARKS. + +1 Kuggur, Siluridae. +2 Soonnee, Cyprinidae, Back greenish, + otherwise pearly-white. +3 Dhurra, Cyprinidae, Fins reddish, red spot + on opercule, back + greenish-brown. +4 Moogullee, " Perilampoid, Diaphanous, silvery, + head reddish. +5 Peedur, " " Like the preceding. +6 Moorr, " " Ditto ditto. +7 Bhanghun, " " Ditto ditto. +8 Kundura, " Perilampus, Back greenish, + otherwise quite + silvery. +9 Pullee, " " Same as 4,5,6,7. +10 Goolla Ciprinidae. +11 Khunnuree, _Percidae_, Chanda + of Buchanan, Diaphanous. +12 Sur-ri-rha, Cyprinidae Perilamp, Silvery-green on back. +13 Gundhan, " Perilampoid, Same colours. +14 Mhukk, " " Ditto ditto. +15 Ghurr, " " Ditto ditto. +16 Dhoalee, Ophiocephalus, Colour brown, with + usual marks and bars. +17 Ahaiha, Siluridae, Diaphanous, 3-5 + irregular longish + stripes. +18 Mhullee, Silurus, Silvery-blueish. +19 Mhoarree, Cyprinidae, Yellowish-green, fins + reddish. 5 seers. +20 Dhumpurra, " Brownish-green, 6 + seers. +21 Pho-eikee, " Perilampoid. +22 Putollee, Cyprinidae, Back and sides + light-green. +23 Poapree, " Back greenish-brown, + sides greenish. +24 Shingra, Siluridae, No stripes, lightly + tinged with brown. +25 Dhimmurr, Silurus. +26 Ghoa-gha, " Back greenish, + punctulate, head + reddish. +27 Mokkhurr, Opiocephalus. +28 Dhujjha, " +29 Thailla, Cyprinidae, 5 to 6 seers. +30 Mhorakkee, " Much like 19. +31 Singarhee, " Much like 4, 5, 6, 7. +32 Logurr, Siluridae, 3 to 4 faint punctulate + longish lines. +33 Ghoje, Not noted. +34 Tupree, " +37 Ghunghutt, Perilampus. +38 Soourr, Siluridae, Diaphanous. Faint + punctulate lines. +39 Soonaree, Cyprinidae. +40 Phunnee, " Perilampoid. +41 Kutchoo, " Much like the + preceding. +42 Saisurr, " Ditto ditto. +43 Coommee, " Much like no. 4. +44 Saluree, " Ditto ditto. +45 Shumsheer, " So called because of + its voracity, + (Shumsheer a sabre.) +46 Ghora, " Same as Soonee. +47 Saboan, " Same as the preceding. +48 Bhambhun, Cyprinidae, Same as Dhurra. + +All the above from the Indus, at Shikarpore. + +No. Family. River. REMARKS. + +49 Cyprinidae, Nari, Small size, colour-silvery, + except upper back, which is + bluish-green. +50 Siluridae, Mysore. +51 Ophiocephalus, " +52 " " +53 Cyprinidae, " Same as 49. +54 " Systomus. " A beautiful fish, bright green + back, otherwise bright + orange-red, fins stained with + black colours; fugacious. +55 Cyprinidae, " +56 " Systomus, " Back greenish, opercle orange + spotted, one black spot near + tail. +57 Percida Chamda " +58 Perilampoid, " +Water of both these rivers, quiescent: bunded up. +59 Cyprinoid, Dadur. +60 " " Same as 54. +61 " Systomus, " Same as 56. +63 Cyprinoid, " +64 " " +65 " " +66 " " Same as 59. +67 Cobites, " +68 Cyprinoid, Bolan, Bluish-green, blue bars and + dots. Takes the fly. +69 Barbus? " Intestines very long, much like + Naipoora. +70 Gonorhynchus? " +71 " " Probably a small specimen of + 69. +72 Cyprinoid, " +73 " Gonorhyncus, Gurmab, Same as 70? +74 " " +75 Cyprinoid, " Closely allied to the Mahaseer. +76 Ditto Mahaseer, " Beautiful fish with + yellow-brown back, golden + sides. Takes fly greedily. +77 " Gonorhynchoid, " +78 " " +79 Silurida, " In Bolan river, deep still + water. +80 Cyprinoid, " In small streams. +81 Macrognathus, " Tenacious of life, belly puffy, + common throughout; a good deal + like a Gudgeon. +82 Loach, Quettah. +83 Cyprinoides, " A beautiful silvery-leaden + backed fish, with a streak of + bright-red along the side. + Common, very like the + preceding: of these Quettah + fish No. 83 is the most common, + 82 the least so. +84 Cyprinus, curious, " + not being a + mountainous form. +86 " " +87 Cyprinoides, Lora, Same mountain form, + Gonorhynchoid. +88 " " +89 Loach, " Ditto ditto ditto. +90 " " Perhaps same as the preceding. +91 Cyprinoides, " +92 " " Like the Adoee. +93 " " Mountain form. +94 " " Large size for the genus. +95 " " _Note_.--Probable number of + species 47, deducting those + supposed not different +96 Cyprinoid, Urghundab. +97 Loach, " +98 Siluridae, " +"I subjoin a list given me by a fisherman at Shikarpore, with his divisions into large and small:-- +Large. Small. + +Dhumpurra, Ghunghut. +Buree Phookee, Pedir. +Buree Thaillee, Soonnee. +Mhoarrhee, Phokee. +Moukkur, Mogullee. +Gundhan, Dhimmur. +Singaree, Ghoagar. +* Pulla, Khuggur. + Seenra. + Mhorr. + Bhangun. + Ghurr. + Soourr. + Morakee. + Tupree. + Ghogee. + Phopree. + Thaillee. + * Pulla. + Punnotee. + Dhaiee. + Ghogura. + +(I send this list as all the specimens are not lost, and some are among +the plants. Most of the species are, I think, distinct, and when they +have appeared to me not to be so, I have generally noted it on the spot. + +The mountain forms are very distinct, the mouth being under the snout, or +head, the intestines long, peritoneum covered with a black pigment. These +forms commence at Dadur, 800 feet above the sea: this stream abounds in +rapids. + +Gurmab is 1,100 feet. Quettah, 5,600 feet. Lora river, 3,600 feet. +Urghundab, 3,600 feet. + +These lists may be of some small use compared with Burnes's collection. +To a certain extent they may be useful as showing the preponderance, etc. +of certain forms. You may rely on my distinctions between Cyprinidae, +Siluridae, and Percidae.) + +"To-morrow I will send the other list of specimens No. 3, which will I +hope reach you; of all the fish in these parts, the Sir-i-Chushme and +Cabul river _Oreinus_ travels farthest up. I have caught it at nearly +11,000 feet in the Helmund river. Then come loaches, and the beautiful +trout-like Opsarion; other Cyprinidae ascend 2,000 or 3,000 feet, the +Mahaseer scarcely more. Above that, come the genuine mountain forms. + +No. Family. Locality. REMARKS. + +1 Cyprinidae, Streams from A brown fish, with irregular + Oreinus? So-faid-koh, black spots. + +2 Cyprinidae, " + +3 " " A sombre looking Gudgeon-like + fish, back blackish, sides + yellowish, punctulate with + groups of blackish spots. + +4 Loach, " Colours and patches obscure. + +5 Perilamp, Jallalabad river, Usual silvery-bluish hues. + +6 Cyprinidae,moun- + tain form, + Schizothorax. + +7 Cyprinidae, _Poo_- " Colours obscure, scales + _teoides_, minute, dorsal spine very + strong. + +8 Cyprinidae, " A stout fish, of obscure + colours, each scale with a + transverse more or less + wavy red line (like the + Nepoora of Assam), mouth + nepooroid, intestines very + long, very thin, very + frangible, packed in longish + folds, Peritoneum covered + with a black pigment. Herbiv. + +9 Cyprinidae. Peri- " Back metallic bluish-brown, + lampoid, otherwise silvery. + +10 Cyprinoid, " + +11 " Schizo- " + thorax, + +12 " " " Back greenish, fins reddish, + snout elongated. + +13 " " " Colours brownish, tinged with + yellow; perhaps it is the + same as the Helmund and Cabul + species: intestines packed in + a few folds, moderately long, + 4.5 inches longer than body: + diameter of body 2 inches. + Peritoneum with the black + pigment _Carneo-herbivorous_. + +14 Cyprinoid, " + +15 Ophiocephalus, Jheels, etc, Bus- Colour rather a rich brown, + soollah, pectoral fins barred with + chesnut. + +16 Cyprinoid like a " Back brownish: this colour + Bleak, Schizo- limited to a narrowish line, + thorax, otherwise entirely pearly. + Peritoneum covered with black + pigment. Intestines rather + large, in 3 or 4 folds. + +17 Cyprinoid. A nar- " A very pretty species, + row deep fish. brownish back, marked faintly + Perilamp. An both longitudinally and + Opsarion? transversely with iridescent + patches, abdominal fins + reddish. + +18 Cyprinoid, Jheels, etc, Bus- A handsome species allied to + soollah, very the Mahaseer; back black, + common, otherwise yellowish, fins + tinged with red, scales as it + were bordered with + dusky-black. Intestines + short. + +19 " " An oval, rather thick fish, + of obscure colours. + +20 " Schizo- " An elegant species, back + thorax. obscurely brown, otherwise + pearly. Peritoneum black, + covered with pigment. + Intestines very long and + narrow. + +21 Racoma nobilis{0c} Lalpoor, Cabul A stout fish, with a large + river, head, not unlike a trout at + first sight Sides bluish + silvery grey, back obscurely + brown, remarkable for + frequent irregular + well-defined black spots, + faintest in small specimens, + fins tinged with reddish. + Head flat at top, with some + spots. Peritoneum with black + pigment. Intestines of large + size, loaded with fat, short, + not twice the length of the + abdomen, cavity loaded with + fat. As usual no caeca. A + remarkable type: aspectu + omnino carnivoris. + +22 Loach, Khyber range A very small and slender + stream, from species, light brown, + Sir-i-Chushme speckled and barred with + spring, temper, brown, attracted + 75 degrees, from immediately by scraping up + limestone rocks. the bed of the outlet of the + spring. + +23 Cyprinid, Orei- Same place, but Back brown, with some + noides, occurs down to iridescent hues, sides + Khyber ghat yellowish brown, dark spots + stream. confined to back and sides, + small but distinct; fins + tinged with reddish. + Peritoneum loaded with + black pigment. Intestines in + short loops across abdomen of + intermediate size, as to + length and diameter. Air + bladder small; very common. + Swarm in deepish pools under + limestone rocks, takes bait, + i.e. offal and worms with + great avidity. Like many + other species, it is asserted + to be the English trout: it + rises to the surface. + +24 Loach, Same place com- Shape subcylindrical, pale + mon, greenish-brown, with very + broad bars of brown, fins + spotted with black, + otherwise fuscescent; at root + of tail a deep black bar. + Head depressed, in old + specimens broad, closely + spotted with black, snout + attenuated, apex with cirrhi; + upper jaw in the centre with + a bony process not unlike an + incisor tooth + +25 Cyprinid, Opsa- " A beautiful trout-like fish, + rion back bluish-black, triangular + bars of azure blackish, + ending in a point towards + glandular line, fins tinged + with orange, tail tipped with + black. Peritoneum spotted + slightly with black. + +26 " Opsarion, " Possibly young specimens of + preceding, colours same but + fainter." + +* * * * * + + _Memorandum on return from Afghanistan_. + +"As I considered on my arrival at Peshawur in December 1839, that a great +deal remained to be done, I obtained permission to remain another season +in Affghanistan. I immediately mentioned my wishes of travelling to +General Avitabili, who strongly advised me not to attempt leaving +Peshawur in any novel direction, as the whole of his district was much +disaffected. Soon afterwards I heard of an expedition being on the point +of leaving Jallalabad for Kooner, and I determined on joining it. I re- +traversed the Khybur Pass alone, and arrived at Jallalabad just in time +to go in the advance. I was present at Pushut, 18th January 1840; and on +the return of the force I remained behind with Captain Macgregor. In +February 1840 I accompanied Captain Macgregor to Chugur-Serai, and thence +to Otipore or Chugur-Serai-Balu on the immediate frontier of Kaffiristan, +and through his influence I was enabled to remain there, and to increase +my materials in an extremely interesting direction. I remained about +Otipore for some weeks, making arrangements for penetrating into +Kaffiristan and little Cashgur, and in daily expectation of being joined +by the late Capt. E. Connolly; all my plans, which first seemed to +promise success, were completely frustrated by the disturbances which +broke out in Bajore, consequent on Meer Alum Khan's absence at +Jallalabad. Capt. Connolly barely escaped with his life from the hands +of the Momauds. Meer Alum Khan found on his return towards his +government that he could not leave Chugur-Serai, and at last, +circumstances threatened so much around Otipore and Chugur-Serai, that +Meer Alum Khan insisted on my leaving Otipore and on returning with him +to Jallalabad. I did not leave a moment too soon, for shortly after, +Syud Hoshin turned Otipore by crossing the hills to the north of Deogul, +and very soon possessed himself of Otipore. Meer Alum and I reached +Jallalabad in safety, having been attacked once on the road. + +"I remained at Jallalabad a few days, and was driven thence to Khaggah by +the necessity of obtaining medical aid. I reached Khaggah in a high +fever, and was confined to my bed for six weeks: during my severe +illness, I experienced the greatest kindness and attention from Dr. +Thomson and Dr. Andrew Paton, of the H. C. European Regt. + +"Early in July I proceeded to Cabul for change of air, and as soon as I +recovered a little strength, started to join Lieut. Sturly, who was +surveying on the Toorkistan frontier. I met that Officer at Syghan the +day he left to prosecute his surveys, which had been interrupted by the +Kamard disturbances: he was recalled to Syghan, in consequence of heavier +and more serious disturbance. + +"I returned to Cabul, as I found it impossible to proceed beyond Syghan, +and then waited with impatience for a season that would enable me to +cross the Punjab without great risk to my still debilitated constitution. + +"My establishment of collectors consisted of unintelligent Affghans, who +were particularly prone to abrupt abscondings, and my supplies of +materials and carriage very limited. + +"The botanical collection is as extensive as could be expected from the +nature of the country and the climate. It is in excellent order, +consisting of about 1500 species, and a great number of duplicates. This +collection has been formed on the principles which have guided me on +former travels. Those principles I conceive to require the collection of +every form in numbers, and in various localities, so that the +geographical limits of each may be estimated, and the examination be +open. They also require information as to habitat, locality, climate, +whether the plants are gregarious or not, and whether they contribute to +giving peculiar features to the country. I do not hesitate to say that +this collection contains almost all the plants that existed in flower or +fruit along the line of march of the army between Cabul and Syghan, about +Chugur-Serai, Otipore, and Pushut, and in the neighbourhood of Khaggah. + +"The extent over which it was formed is about 1,600 miles, and on the +variety of geographical position a considerable part of its value +depends. If the plants between Cabul and Peshawur are less rich, as my +journeys between those cities always occurred at unfavourable seasons, +the deficiency has been lessened by my friend Dr. Ritchie. + +"The Ornithological portion of the collection, consists of about 350 +specimens, is in good order, and contains many objects of interest, +valuable for throwing some light on the geographical distribution of +birds. + +"To the fish of the various tracts I paid considerable attention, but +owing to the difficulties of travelling and of climate, the collection +has suffered severely. At Shikarpore I made an extensive collection of +the fish of the Indus. I had collected most of the fish of the river, of +the Bolan Pass, of the streams of Quettah, and of the Urghundab, near +Candahar, unfortunately I relied too much on the preservative powers of +alcohol. Subsequently I took the additional precaution of preserving +skins separately; and it is to these which amount to about 150 specimens, +that the collections are chiefly limited. The collections contain the +fish of the Cabul river, between its source near Sir-i-Chushme, and +Peshawur, of the Helmund at an altitude of 11,500 feet, of the Bamean +river, and of the Chenab, Ravee, and Sutledge. + +"This collection is particularly interesting, as showing that while the +plants, quadrupeds, and birds of the southern and northern declivities of +the Kohi-Baba, the continuation of the Hindoo-koosh, are much alike, yet +that a total difference exists in their fish. + +"Lord Keane, and Sir Willoughby Cotton, left me in complete possession of +my own time, a great kindness due no doubt to the considerate +instructions of Lord Auckland, but for which I was not the less grateful. + +"I always found Sir Alexander Burnes very considerate and very willing to +forward my views, and put me in possession of information. The late Dr. +Lord also showed himself anxious to assist me in my duties, and very +kindly asked me to join the Mission to Toorkistan, so suddenly put an end +to by a suspected outbreak in Kohistan. + +"To Captain Macgregor I was under great obligations during the whole time +I continued in his district. Through his influence I was enabled to +remain at the outer borders of Kaffiristan; and that deservedly warm +respect which he was held in by all the chiefs, would, I am confident, +have gained me access into Kaffiristan, and towards Cashgur, at any less +unsettled period. I have seen Captain Macgregor in the closet and in the +field, and I cannot sufficiently express the respect with which I have +had cause to regard him in both situations. + +"Captain Sanders, of the Bengal Engineers, was always eager to swell my +stock of materials, and during periods of occasional indisposition, I +relied almost entirely on him. Captain Sanders had also made for me a +collection of plants between Candahar and Herat, which, I regret to say, +was nearly entirely destroyed in crossing one of the rivers on that +route. + +"It is to Dr. Ritchie, of the Bombay Medical Service, the companion of +the justly celebrated Major Pottinger, during his return from Herat via +Jhomunna, that the Botanical collections are mostly indebted. Dr. +Ritchie not only placed unreservedly at my disposal a very interesting +collection made on that journey, but also a larger one made between +Peshbolak and Peshawur. Both these are of considerable value, the one +shows that the Affghan forms prevail as far as Herat on both sides of the +Paropamisus, the other shows that Affghanistan, even in its hottest +parts, has a majority of European forms. To the contents of these +collections, notes of the localities are also added, enhancing their +value very considerably. I may be excused for adding, that Dr. Ritchie +is acquainted with route surveying; in this and his knowledge of Botany, +he possesses two valuable requisitions of a traveller. + +"Dr. Grant, of the Bombay Medical Service, formerly in Medical charge of +Dr. Lord's Mission, liberally presented me with an excellent series of +specimens from the valley of Syghan. + +"While I am beyond measure indebted for Zoological collections, to +Captain Hay, of the European Regiment." + +* * * * * + +"The following notes addressed to Emanuel Fernandez, plant collector at +Malacca, may perhaps be useful as containing instructions for the +collection and transmission of plants and seeds. They are perhaps worthy +of insertion on other grounds, as an example of the painstaking, and +patient manner in which Mr. Griffith made his wishes known to the persons +employed by him in his pursuits." + +* * * * * + +_To Emanuel Fernandez_. + +"I have received the open box of seeds, and the large case of plants, per +_'Tenasserim_.' The Ebool seeds were coming up, the dried plants are in +good order, and are of very good kinds. + +"Before you put in the palms and fruits with other collections, you +should see that they are quite dry, as otherwise they rot and injure the +dried plants. When you send up more fruits, etc. put them into open +rattan baskets, so that they may be aired. + +"I send a list of palms and _rotans_ wanted very much, and two more +glazed cases for seeds: water the earth inside a day before closing the +boxes and sending them off to Singapore. Whenever you get any good +seeds, dry them, and put them in a letter, directed to me. Seeds spoil +by being kept, particularly if kept among wet fruits and dried plants. + +"If you can get flower-pots in Malacca buy two or three dozen, and +whenever you get seeds sow them in a pot, and keep them, until you have +enough pots filled to occupy one of the cases, then put mould between the +pots, and sow more seeds in this mould, fasten the lid down and send off +the box to Singapore." + +* * * * * + + _May 30th_, 1843. + +"The cases of plants, etc. have arrived: the fresh plants were nearly all +dead. + +"You planted them very well, and cleverly, but some how or other the lids +of the boxes were nailed down, and so the plants died; because plants +will not live without light. + +"Some of the Ebool seeds have sprouted, one Lanjoot arrived alive, and +also the Pakoo Galowe. + +"I will send soon two glazed cases, in which you may put plants as +before, and seeds of palms, or any good plants: sow them in the same +manner, and three or four days before the cases are despatched water the +earth and plants moderately; then screw down the lid, when the plants, if +they have rooted in the earth, will not die, because the glass admits +light to them. But to be sure of the plants having rooted, you must keep +the cases with you for three weeks, and if any plants are sickly, take +them out and put in others. + +"I send a list: when your next despatch arrives, I will increase your +pay. If you send plenty of seeds, etc. often, that is once a month or +six weeks, I will keep you in my service even if I do not come back to +Malacca. + +"I also send a box with a large bottle in it of spirits of wine, this is +for monkey cups (Nepenthes). Take the finest ones you can get of all +sorts, and put them in the bottle, leaves and all, do not squeeze them +into the bottle, then send it to me." + +* * * * * + +"I send two empty glazed cases for plants: when these reach you, fill +them with moist earth and plant in them ripe fresh seeds of the following +palms * * * You need not wait until you have obtained all, but such only +as you can get at once; but remember when you have got ripe seeds of any +kind to sow them in the case. Take care the earth is not too wet. The +seeds you sent, sown in an open box, came up, and we have now six or +seven live Ebools, etc. + +"Send me up some ripe fruits and seeds of the Epoo, those you sent were +not ripe. If you can get any ripe ones, also sow some with the palm +seeds." + +* * * * * + + _Calcutta_: _March 26th_, 1844. + +"When you prepare Rotangs do not cut off the stalk of the leaf close to +the stem, but six inches from it, and do not cut off the thorns, but tie +all up in mats or gunny bags: at the same time send the leaves of each +dried in paper like other plants and flowers, all with names written +plainly in English and Malay. + +"Send live plants according as you receive boxes for them." + +* * * * * + +"Whenever you find ripe fruits or seeds, dry them in the sun, and then +send them to the Post Office for despatch in paper bags. Sow palm seeds +in open boxes as you did before, the Ebool having come up." + +* * * * * + + _January_ 14_th_, 1844. + +"The plants dried and living have been received, and do you great credit. +The live plants particularly are in excellent order. I have sent two +more cases, when they reach you, fill them as you have done before, and +despatch them to me. I send some cards on which you can write the names +plainly, and tie them on the specimens. I will also send you a pocket +English Dictionary, and make you a present of the English and Portuguese +one." + + + + +PRIVATE JOURNALS OF WM. GRIFFITH, F.L.S. + + +CHAPTER I. + + +_When proceeding with the Assam Deputation for the_ +_Examination of the Tea Plant_. + +_September_, _1835_.--We arrived at Pubna on the 9th of September, and +left it on the following morning, pursuing the course of the Pubna +"Karee," which is exceedingly tortuous and of about an average width of +100 yards. On the evening of the 10th, we halted in the same river near +its termination. This morning we reached the "Beera," into which the +Pubna Karee enters, and which at the mouth presents a vast expanse of +water. Among the jheels which occur on every side, we noticed in +abundance the _Tamarix dioica_. About noon we entered a narrow river, +and in the evening a very narrow creek in which in two places we +experienced a great difficulty in getting the boats along. We noticed +_Alpinia allughas_, _Nymphaea pubescens_, _Oxystelma esculentum_, +_Apluda aristata_, in abundance. Up to this period the two most +conspicuous grasses continue to be _Saccharum spontaneum_, and +_Andropogon muricatus_. + +_Sunday_, _13th_.--Arrived at Shiraz-gunge, about half-past 8 A.M., from +which place the people say Jumalpore is a three days' journey. The +country through which we proceeded after leaving Shiraz-gunge is nothing +but a net-work of rivers, several of vast size, and low islands, occupied +almost exclusively by _Saccharum spontaneum_, and in some places +abounding in _Typha elephantina_, in fruit. We halted at a small +village in the evening, where we procured _Centrostachys aquatica_. + +_September 14th_.--Came in sight of distant very elevated land, which +we suppose to be the Kassiya Hills. This morning (15th) the Hills are +very plain, and bear nearly due north. The country through which we +passed yesterday presented no change whatever. _Andropogon muricatus_ +has now nearly left us; but the _Saccharum_ reaches to a large size, and +is incredibly abundant. The natives use it for thatching their huts. We +were visited by a heavy squall in the evening. + +_16th_.--Strong winds from an easterly direction. About noon we +succeeded in reaching a creek, in which we are completely sheltered. +During our route here, we were employed in examining a new species of +_Crotalaria_, and one of _Mitrasacme_! In pools close to us are +_Damasonium indicum_, _Nymphaea caerulea_, _Myriophyllum_ +_tetrandrum_, _Polygonum rivulare_, and a species of _Villarsia_, _V_. +_cristata_. + +_19th_.--Left the creek, and arrived at Jumalpore about 2 P.M.; the +cantonment of which occupies the right-hand side of the Burrampooter, +along the bank of which the officers' houses are situated; indeed this is +the only dry line about the place, as immediately inland there are +nothing but jheels and rice fields. Jumalpore is about .75 of a mile +from the junction of the Jenai with the Burrampooter or rather from the +point of exit of the former river. + +_24th_.--We left the cantonment about 11 A.M., and proceeded down the +Burrampooter, which is a very uninteresting river, and appears more like +a net-work of water and sand banks; opposite Jumalpore, the banks are +about a mile apart, but the distance between the extreme banks, leaving +the island opposite the cantonment out of the question, is much more. +During the dry weather this part of the river is passable, and indeed is +in some places nothing but a dry bed of sand, so that people walk across +it. During our stay at the above place we met with many interesting and +new plants, among which a new species of _Villarsia_ occupied the most +prominent place. _Cyperaceae_, _Gramineae_, and aquatic _Scrophularineae_ +abound. _Solanum spirale_ occurs in abundance, and the trees commence +to be clothed with ferns. I observed only one _Epiphytica Orchidea_, +probably an _Aerides_. + +The banks consist hitherto of nothing but sand, covered with _Saccharum_ +_spontaneum_. _Andropogon muricatus_ is scarcely to be met with. + +_26th_.--We left Mymensing this morning, and proceeded down the +Burrampooter, the banks of which still present for the most part nothing +but a succession of sandy banks covered with _Saccharum spontaneum_. +The stream is not very rapid, and the river, owing to the numerous +islands and banks, does not present so imposing an appearance as the +Ganges. For the last week strong easterly winds have prevailed. + +_27th_.--We entered the mouth of the Soormah, or, as the natives seem to +call it, the Barak. The water of this river or portion of the Megna? is +remarkably clear, compared with that of the Ganges; as indeed is that of +the Burrampooter. + +_30th_.--Some time after we entered the Soormah we apparently left its +channel, and up to this morning we have passed through a tract of jheels +with a few clear and very deep channels. The villages are built on small +eminences, and are entirely surrounded with water; they have the usual +form, and those houses adjoining the water have fences of an _Arundo_, +which they tell us are intended to keep out the grass. We have since +entering these jheels passed through and between immense beds of +vegetation, formed principally of _Oplismenus_ (Panicum) _stagninus_, +_Leersia_? _aristata_, which by-the-bye is a distinct genus. _Villarsia_ +_cristata_, _Nymphaealotus_, Potamogeton, _Azolla Salvinii_, etc. etc. +The only novel things we have met with are _Ischaemum cuspidatum_, +Roxb. (sui generis,) and a small grass intermediate between Panicum and +Chamaeraphis. The wild form of _Oryza sativa_, _Panicum interruptum_ +and _Leersia_? _ciliaris_, Roxb. also occur; the two former in abundance. +On the more dry tracts, that occasionally though very rarely occur, +_Andropogon muricatus_ appears. No _Saccharum_ presented itself since +the 28th. High ground was visible yesterday evening, apparently at a +great distance. + +_October 1st_.--We have continued to pass through immense jheels: about +6 A.M. we arrived at Hubbe-gunge, a large native town, situated on the +Barak, which does not deserve the name of a river. The actual distance +from this place to Chattuc is about 42 miles, and the high land in that +direction was faintly visible for about 2 hours in the morning. The +ground to the Eastward is losing the "Jheel" character, and appears +densely wooded, and to the S.E. rather high hills are visible. Altogether +this land of jheels is very remarkable, particularly on account of the +great depth of the water, which except in one point has hitherto always +exceeded 6 feet, and yet the water has fallen in all probability two or +three more. As the head quarters of tropical aquatic plants, it is well +worthy of attention; the profusion of _Leersia aristata_, Roxb. is +immense, but this is almost exceeded by _Oplismenus stagninus_. + +_On the 3rd October_, we left the tract of jheels, and proceeded by +small rivers, overhung with jungle and fine bamboos; on the 5th we re- +entered the Soorma and proceeded down it to Chattuc, which is situated on +the left bank of the river, and which we reached in the afternoon. During +our passage down the river we had beautiful views of the mountains, which +do not however strike one with an idea of great height. We could plainly +distinguish two or three waterfalls shooting over scarped precipices. + +_Churra Punjee_, _October 30th_.--After a residence of 20 days here, +I wrote to Mr. Solly, stating nothing particular, except that Bucklandia +has coniferous tissue, and that Podostemon will probably prove +Monocotyledonous and allied to Pistiaceae. Our stay here has proved a +source of great delight, and accumulation of botanical and geological +treasures. The cantonments of Churra are at an elevation of 4200 feet +above the sea, the native village being situated half way up the ascent +which closes in the table-land on which the cantonment is situated +towards the N. and W., and it is hence about 300 feet higher. The +country immediately adjoining the cantonment is flat, with here and there +a rounded hillock, destitute of any covering but grasses and a few low, +half shrubby plants. To the Eastward there is a very deep and beautiful +valley, the west side of which in particular is densely covered with +jungle, but this does not contain any large trees. The opposite side, +fronting our bungalow, runs nearly N. and S., presents a succession of +ravines, and a most picturesque and varied surface. This valley, along +the bottom of which as is usual a torrent runs, opens into the low +country at Terrya Ghat, which is situated at the foot of the ascent to +Churra. Directly to the south, and at a distance of about two miles from +the cantonments, there is another valley likewise occupied below by a +torrent fed by the Moosmai falls. The commencement of all these valleys, +that I have at least seen, is a sheer precipice, which often, and +particularly at Moosmai, assumes the form of a vast amphitheatre, over +the brink of which cascades, especially at Moosmai, fall in tolerable +plenty. It is in these places that the immense depth of the sandstone is +best seen; the depth of the valley of Moosmai is, I am told, 1500 feet, +the country above these precipices is generally level, and is in fact +table-land. The most beautiful valley is at Maamloo, a village to the +Westward of Churra, and about five miles distant. The approach to Churra +is pretty enough, and gives the best view of the cantonment. The coal +mines are to the Westward, and close to Churra. These I have not yet +seen; the coal is of the very best description, it does not splinter, +gives remarkably few ashes, affords an admirable fire and the best coke. +Water-courses are plenty about Churra, but the body of water is at this +season small, although it becomes considerable after a few hours rain; it +is then that the great fall at Moosmai becomes really beautiful, the +water shooting over the precipice and falling into a bason about 150 feet +below. By a succession of these falls, although of more limited height, +it at length reaches the bottom of the valley. It is only on the +precipices about the fall that the Chamaerops appears to grow; at the +foot of a precipice a little to the right (going from Churra,) a tree +fern grows, which I have Wallich's authority for stating to be Polypod +giganteum, a fern which occurred at Mahadeb, and which I have seen in +somewhat similar situations at Mergui. All my excursions have been +confined to this valley and to the water-courses immediately around +Churra; once only have I quitted the table-land and proceeded to Maamloo, +and yet in this very limited space the profusion of objects has been such +as to enable me only to embrace a very limited proportion. The above +excursion proved very rich. About half way to Maamloo I discovered a +solitary tree fern (_Alsophila Brunoniana_,) and to the left, and up +the broken sides of the calcareous cliffs that occur here and between +Maamloo and Moosmai, a group of several magnificent specimens, of which +on the succeeding day we brought home three. We saw none above 30 feet, +although the specimen in the British Museum from these hills measures 45. +Their axis is of small diameter, and is nearly cylindrical, the vascular +fascicles being disposed in covered bundles, often assuming the form of a +UU near the circumference of the very dense cellular tissue of which the +axis is chiefly composed. Towards the base it is enveloped in an oblique +dense mass of intermottled rigid fibres (roots) which, as they are +developed in the greatest extent, the nearer they approach the base, give +the trunk a conical form. Their growth is essentially endogenous, and +will probably be found when examined aborigine to approximate to that of +Cycadeae, although these last are of a more exogenous than endogenous +nature. Nothing however is known of the growth of Palms, Cycadeae, or +tree ferns. I have above alluded to the calcareous rocks or cliffs; +these are of the same formation with those that occur so abundantly on +the Tenasserim coast, although they are much more rich in vegetation. +These I first saw at Terrya Ghat; like those of Burmah they abound in +caves, and assume the most varied and picturesque forms; they appear to +be the head quarters of Cyrthandraceae, of which we found a noble species +with the flower of a Martynia growing among the tree-ferns. They are +very rich in ferns and mosses, of which last near the tree-ferns I +gathered four species of four genera without moving a foot. The cliffs +in which, or at the foot of which the coal is found, bound the Churra +cantonments to the Westward. These are chiefly calcareous. The entrance +to Churra lies between this and the precipice at Moosmai. Very few +animals of any description are to be seen about Churra. I have seen one +small species of deer, about half as large again as the mouse-deer of +Mergui, and one young flying squirrel of a greyish black colour, with a +very bushy tail. Leopards are, they say, not uncommon. Tigers do not +generally come so high. Of birds, I mean about Churra, there are several +species of hawks, and their old companions crows and swallows; but I have +seen no sparrows, which is singular enough. There is one beautiful +species of jay, with crimson-orange beak and legs, and a pretty +king-fisher; but, except perhaps in the valleys, birds, I should say, are +very scarce. With respect to shooting, scarcely any is to be had; wood- +cocks are found in the dells about Churra, but sparingly. I have seen +only one snipe and one quail. + +Regarding the natives, I have little to say. They are a stout-built, +squat, big-legged hill tribe: the women in regard to shape being exactly +like their mates; and as these are decidedly ugly--somewhat tartarish- +looking people, very dirty, and chew pawn to profusion--they can scarcely +be said to form a worthy portion of the gentler sex. They appear to be +honest; but that is a quality which, from the example of their European +lords, they are said to be losing fast. They have no written character; +every thing being transmitted by tradition, and performed by the +interchange of tokens. They drink like fish, and manufacture a bad kind +of arrack, the pernicious effects of which were experienced by the +European invalids when the Sanatarium was in existence. They pay respect +to their dead by the erection of a sort of kairns and large erect slabs +of sandstone rounded off at the upper end: of these, I believe, they put +up three or five to each friend, according to their means and, probably, +rank. The Churra people cultivate nothing but a little cotton, and +perhaps a species of Eleasine. They depend upon the plains for their +support and supplies, and this is good management since rice at Terrya +Ghat is sold at 70 or 80 seers a rupee. Their hire is, considering the +cheapness of their food, very expensive; a man being rated at four annas +a day, a woman at three, and a boy at two. I should add, that they have +no caste. + +The climate is certainly very cool and cold, the thermometer ranging from +about 56 to 66 degrees in-doors at this time of the year. The rains are +said to be the coldest part of the year; they are excessive, commencing +in April and ceasing in October. It occasionally rains for fifteen or +sixteen days in succession, and without intermission; and nine or ten +inches have been known to fall in twenty-four hours. Since we have been +here, inclusive of this, we have had four days of wet weather, of which +three were continued rain. Both were ushered in by the sudden irruption +of heavy mists from below, which soon spread over the country, obscuring +every thing. These sudden irruptions occur during the partial breaking +up of the rain, during which time the valleys are completely choked up +with dense mists, the summits of the hills on the opposite side to that +on which one stands being alone visible. After the rains were over, in +the first instance, the plains, or rather the mass of haze hanging over +them, presented a most curious spectacle. + +The coldest weather we have yet experienced was at Maamloo, on the 27th, +the thermometer at 8 P.M. being at 52 degrees. This is remarkable, as +Maamloo is rather below Churra. There is however a good deal of wood +round the place. {7} + +With regard to Botany, the chief vegetation about Churra, as indeed is at +once indicated by the appearance of the country, consists of grasses. +Along the water-courses, which intersect this portion of the country, +_Bucklandia populnea_, a species of Ternstraemia, Pandanus, Eugenia, +Camellia, are found; while Compositae, Eriocaulon, and ferns abound in +the same places. The vegetation of the valleys is very rich and very +varied; and, an affinity is indicated with the botany of China by the +existence of a species of Illicum, I. khascanam, and several +Ternstroemiaceae. The great orders are grasses, ferns, compositae. +During a trip to Maamloo, a beautifully situated village on the brink of +the table-land, we discovered abundance of the tree-fern _Alsophila_ +_Brunoniana_, the highest of which measured 25 feet. The appearance of +the tree is that of a palm. The flora surrounding these tree-ferns we +found to be exceedingly rich. Among Nepal ferns, I may mention +_Anisadenia_, _Saxifraga ligulata_. + +_Interior of the Khasyah Mountains_.--On the 2nd, we left for +Surureem; at which place we halted a day. Bucklandia here occurs, of a +very large size, perhaps 50 or 60 feet. It is a rugged-looking tree, +many of the branches being decayed. There we observed the first +_Rhododendrum arboreum_. Our next stage was to Moflong; during our +march thither, or rather mine, I had a fine view of the Himalayas, but +not upon the regular road to Moflong. The European forms certainly +increased in number between Surureem and the above place. Two great +acquisitions occurred on the road; a new Crawfurdia, and a Podostemon +which W. has named after me. This I found in the clear stream adjoining +the Bogapanee growing upon stones, and adhering to them very firmly. It +is on the hills about the Bogapanee that the firs first make their +appearance, but do not attain to any great size. The valley of the +Bogapanee is exceedingly deep, and both the descent and ascent are very +difficult. + +Moflong is a bleak exposed village and the bungalow or residence for +travellers very bad. The number of European forms we found to increase +considerably about this place. The only woods that occur are of fir, but +the trees are of no great size; their frequent occurrence, however, +stamps a peculiar feature on the scenery. We here experienced nearly +three days of continued rain, and, as the place is bleak, we were +miserable enough. We left for Myrung on the 9th, and the greater and all +the first part of the long march was very uninteresting. At Mumbree, +however, there is a decided improvement, and the scenery is very good. +One here notices the occurrence of woods--of oaks, etc., and their form +reminded me somewhat of the woods of Buckinghamshire. No woods of fir +occur; all the trees occurring isolatedly. I should mention that the +country between Molee and Moflong is quite peculiar in geological +structure, abounding in Cyanite, the masses of which are of very +considerable size. I imagine that the vegetation farther on in this +direction would be more rich in European forms than elsewhere, at least +between Churra and Mingklow. + +Myrung is certainly far superior in every point to any place that we have +yet seen; and, as the climate is peculiarly fine and the bungalow good, +the degree of enjoyment is as great as can be expected. The features of +the country are similar to those of Mumbree. The groves or woods are +composed chiefly of oaks, intermixed with Magnolias, which attain a very +large size. These forests seem all to have a northern aspect. Orchideae +abound in these woods, and so far as herbaceous forms go, European +vegetation is on the decrease. From the bungalow one has occasionally a +remarkably fine view of the Himalayas, mountains intercepted by large +tracts of very high land, probably Bootan. The coldest weather we have +experienced here was when the thermometer sank to 46 degrees; even in the +middle of the day the sun is not oppressive. It is singular enough, that +the first attempts, so to speak, at a Fauna occur here. The woods abound +with small birds. I shot one squirrel, with a very short tail and +rounded head. Red deer (the Gyee of the Burmese) occur, though rarely. +Two or three solitary snipes may be found during a day's excursion, and +perhaps a brace of quail, which are nearly as large as English +partridges. Pheasants are reported to occur in the woods. I should add, +that both here and at Nunklow snipe of a very large description, and of +the habits of the solitary snipe, are found in small numbers. They are +very brown, as large as a wood-cock, and their cry is that of a common +snipe. Lieutenant Townsend informs me, that these birds are a totally +distinct species. Lieutenant Vetch tells me, that the Khasiyas declare +that they are the females of the wood-cock, in other words, wood-hens, +and that in March wood-cocks abound in the places with these wood-hens. +He likewise informs me, that the only difference he could ascertain to +exist between these birds and wood-cocks, consists in their having very +short and thick legs. + +I have seen two of this particular description, but have never shot any. + +[View from Nunklow: p8.jpg] + +After Myrung one can speak much less in favour of these hills. Nunklow +is a pretty spot, and commands a really magnificent view of the +Himalayas, of the Bootan mountains, and of the plains of Assam. +Altogether this view is the finest which, in my limited experience, I +have ever seen: I did not however like Nunklow, nor do my wishes recur to +it. {9} The route thither is pretty enough, and not fatiguing. I may +mention Nunklow as the station of some fine trees, among which is a +Betula, two AEsculi, oaks, etc. in abundance. The pine is in fine order, +but not large. Much more cultivation is carried on in this portion of +the hills than elsewhere, and paddy is cultivated apparently to some +extent. The temperature is much warmer, and the air by no means so +bracing as that of Myrung. Perhaps at this place the flora resemble that +of lower Himalaya more than other places we have yet seen. The march +from Nunklow to Nowgong is very long, and, as we started late, owing +partly to mismanagement and partly to the want of coolies, we were most +agreeably benighted in the jungle. The descent is very sudden and +commences at Nunklow; the valley, on the brink of which it is situated, +being perhaps 2000 feet deep. It is in this valley or on its walls that +the finest pines we have seen occur, but even here they do not attain a +greater height than 60 feet, and perhaps a diameter of a foot or a foot +and a half. As Mr. Brown of the Sillet Light Infantry informed me most +correctly, many would make fine spars; but Mr. Cracroft's language in one +of the Journals of the Asiatic Society when describing these firs, seems +rather overwrought. During our march I picked up a pretty species of +Sonerila. A small stream runs at the foot of the descent, by what name +it goes I know not. Near the Bustapanee, flowing along a valley about +two hours' walk from the last mentioned water. Wallich discovered +abundance of his favourite and really splendid Polypodium Wallichianum, +which I may accuse with justice of being an additional reason for our +benightment. The stream is really the only respectable river we have +seen, or rather the second one that can be called a torrent, the other +being the Bogapanee. It boils along, and the body of water is great, +even at the season of the year at which we passed it. It has forced +enormous holes, frequently round, in the large masses of rock that form +its bed, and then in and a few yards beyond the bridge of bamboos by +which we crossed, it falls, they say, 70 feet into a fine bason, which +however is only partly visible from above. They who have been on the +edges of this bason say that the fall is really fine; it certainly has +not much of this when viewed from above, neither can it, I think, even in +the rains come up to Mr. Cracroft's description. Moosmai is, _apres_ +_tout_ I will venture to say, the king of the falls between Terrya Ghat +and Ranee Godown. On the farther side of this water, small trees of +Cycas first make their appearance, but we had no time now or rather then +to examine any thing. As the shades of evening lengthened we quickened +our paces, and at last when it became dark, came up with the coolies in a +most rugged road, and when it was dark, after stumbling about a good +deal, I made my way to the foot of the descent, and reached a small +stream, where we made preparations for a halt, and where we passed the +night, during which we were treated with a slight shower of rain. As the +season was far advanced we all escaped, scot-free, from fever, and +reached the Bungalow called Nowgong about 10 o'clock next morning, where +we spent the day. + +[The village of Nunklow: p11.jpg] + +From this time we were, I believe, all anxious to leave the hills, which +had lost all their charms, although the vegetation was still more +gigantic and interesting. But we were now confined to the road, which is +very good, all digressions being prevented by the thickness of the +jungles, and then in some places swarms of wild elephants. These animals +appear most numerous about Onswye, near which there is a marshy place +literally trodden up by them, and their tracks were so fresh that no +traces of Wallich or his coolies could be identified, although they had +preceded us only about half an hour. It was in this particular place +that I gathered a solitary specimen of _Butomus pygmaeus_. Beyond +Nowgong, saul first comes into view, and many trees attain a considerable +size. Some fine ferns and two beautiful Acanthaceae, I may mention, as +collected about that place. We reached Jyrung by an easy march the next +day; every step adding only to a greater renewal of acquaintance with old +faces, or at least old plain plants. Between Jyrung and the foot of the +hills, we fell in with _Henslowia glabra_ in fine flower: Wallich took +many fine specimens, all of which were males. This species is, as well +as the former, liable to deceive one as to the sex of the plant; but all +the seeming ovaries beginning to enlarge are due to insect bites or +punctures. To conclude: at the foot of the hills we were embraced with +_Marlea Begonifolia_, _Bauhinia purpurea_, etc. almost exactly as at +Terrya Ghat. Between the foot of these really delightful hills and Ranee +Godown, I fell in with one plant only, deserving of mention, _Dischedia_ +_Rafflesiana_; this is worthy of notice, as our Indian Asclipiferous +species have not hitherto been found, I believe north of Moulmain, nor +otherwhere than that peninsula and the archipelago. From Ranee Godown we +had the pleasure of walking nineteen miles to Gowahatty, which place we +reached on the 23rd November. + +All I can say in its favour is, that it is very cold in the mornings, +always at this season cool; that it is very pretty, being situated on the +Burrampooter, and surrounded with hills; that the women are good-looking, +and the whole body of officers among the best. Of its botanical riches I +can only say, that in a short afternoon's excursion we found +_Cardiopterus harnulosa_, or rather saw it, and a species of Apocynea +in fruit, probably the same with one I have from Tenasserim, and which is +remarkable for the very many fleshy alae of its fruit. Gowahatty is +particularly known as the station for _Cycas circinatis_, one fine +specimen of which Captain Jenkins shewed us, and the height of which is +perhaps 20 or 25 feet. + +It was dichotomous, but only once. The rings formed by the scars of the +foot stalks, as well as those of the fruit stalks, were most distinct on +the two branches only, and gave them a very rich and less elated +appearance. The examination of this specimen only strengthens me in my +opinion derived chiefly from examination of those in the Botanic Gardens, +that these rings which certainly afford the age of each branch, one being +added of either sort every year, are not to be distinguished in the stem +below its division. So that after all, _Brongniart_ is only half-wrong, +although he is ignorant of the saving clause. + +I may add, that we were on the hills about thirty-eight days, of which +seven and a half were rainy, a proportion of 1 in 5.5. + +_On the 2nd December_, our party left Gowahatty for Suddiya, on the +morning of the 4th I proceeded in advance in Captain Matthie's express +canoe for Tezpoor, which place I reached on the evening of the 6th, and +at which I met with a most kind reception from Captain Matthie, Principal +Assistant to the Agent to the Governor General, and in Civil charge of +the district of Durrung. Tezpoor possesses many advantages over +Gowahatty, from which place it is about 120 miles distant, that is, +following the river. It is situated on the banks of what was once a +portion of the Burrampooter, but which is now nothing but a nullah, +nearly dry at the present season. It is a completely new place, {12} +Captain Matthie having arrived here about a year since, at which time it +was a complete jungle. Some small hills run along the side of the +nullah, on one of which Captain Matthie's house is situated. The +clearings have already reached to a considerable extent, and there are +two good roads for buggies. The great advantage it has over Gowahatty +consists in its freedom from fogs, which evidently hug the Meekur hills +on the opposite side of the Burrampooter, bearing about E.S.E. from +Tezpoor. It is perhaps owing to the proximity of these hills that +Nowgong until 10 A.M. appears completely enveloped in fog, while all +round Tezpoor it is completely clear. + +From this place the view of the Himalayas and of the intervening Bootan +hills is very fine. The chain is of considerable extent, and presents +three grand peaks, of which the most westerly one is the largest. They +do not appear very distant, and are distinctly seen at this season at all +times of the day. They are more soft and picturesque towards evening, at +which time the different shades are better developed. The degrees of +ascent of the Bootan hills are well shewn; the hills forming the lowest +range being of no considerable height. It is at once obvious, that the +ascent into Bootan from this place would occupy several days. + +[Captain Mathie's Cutcherry: p12.jpg] + +The view to the S. and S.S.W. is barren enough, and is completely flat; +the country presenting nothing whatever but high grass, with an +occasional peep of the river. That to the north is, owing to the +Himalayas, very striking and picturesque. + +Cultivation is carried on to a great extent about Tezpoor, and the +district is populous, although few villages are to be seen, as they are +all concealed among trees. Paddy is the principal grain cultivated, and +this is carried on in low places, which appear on a casual examination to +have been originally beds of rivers. Captain Matthie however tells me, +that many of these have abrupt terminations and commencements, such may +have been old jheels. Sursoo, opium, and sugar-cane are likewise +cultivated, especially the former. + +The whole land indeed, with the exception of the rice-places and the +evidently old beds of the Burrampooter, are much more elevated than the +land round Gowahatty. Both Tezpoor and Durrung are consequently less +damp, and more healthy than the above-mentioned place. In fact, as a +residence I would infinitely prefer Tezpoor to Gowahatty. With regard to +the shikar, (shooting) both large and small game abound. Tigers are +frequent as well as bears. Buffaloes are to be seen on the _churs_ +(islands) in large herds. Pea-fowl and jungle-fowl abound, as well as +water-fowl; floricans and partridges, both black and red, are by no means +unfrequent. + +_Upper Assam_, _Jan_. _15th_.--We arrived at Kujoo, a rather large +village of Singfos, and within half a day's journey of which the tea is +found in its native state. This is the first Singfo village I have as +yet seen, and is situated on the skirts of a plain of small extent, and +covered to all appearance by extensive grass jungles, among which trees +are interspersed. The houses are not numerous, but they are of large +size, and are raised in the Burman fashion on piles from the ground. +Within one, many families are accommodated. The people themselves are +fair, much like the Burmese, but still quite distinct. The male dress +resembles the Burmese much; the female is more distinct, consisting +chiefly of a sort of _gown_; and whilst tattooing is confined to the +males in Burma, it here appears to be indulged in chiefly by the ladies; +all the legs I saw during the day, being ornamented with rings of tattoo. +The men are a stout, rather fine race; free, easy, and independent, and +great admirers of _grog_ in every form. + +During our journey hither, and indeed en route from Kujoo Ghat, we passed +over a clay soil and through a dense jungle, comparable to which I have +seen but little. Our direction has been nearly south from the above +place. The jungle consisted chiefly of trees, here and there large +patches of bamboo or tobacco occurring: there was but little underwood. +Among the trees the most gigantic was a species of Dipterocarpus, +probably the same with that I have gathered on Pator hill, Mergui. We +picked up likewise very large acorns with a depressed lamellated cap, and +two fruits of Castanea, one probably the same with that from Myrung. But +of all the vegetation, that of ferns is the most luxuriant and most +varied. + +_Jan_. _16th_.--This day we gave up to the examination of the tea in its +native place. It occurs in a deep jungle to the south of the village, +and at a distance of about three miles from it. Our route thither lay +through first a rather extensive grass jungle, then through a deep +jungle. We crossed the Deboru once on our route; it is a mean and +insignificant stream. + +Nothing particular presents itself in the jungle until you approach the +tea, on which you come very suddenly. This plant is limited to a small +extent, perhaps to 300 yards square, the principal direction being N. and +S. It grows in a part of the jungle where the soil is light and dryish, +and throughout which, _ravinules_ are frequent, due, Mac. tells me, to +the effect of rain dropping from the heavy over-shadowing foliage on a +light soil. In addition to this, small mounds occur about the roots of +the large trees; but chiefly around bamboos, which are by no means +unfrequent. This, however, is of common occurrence in all bamboo +jungles. The underwood consists chiefly of Rubeaceae, a small Leea, +Cyrthandraceae and Filices, _Polypodium arboreum_, _Angiopteris_ +_orassipes_, and a large Asplenium are common. Among the arbuscles are a +large leaved Tetranthera, a Myristica, Anonaceae, _Paederioidea_ +_faetidissima_, foliis ternatis; stipulis apicee subulata, 3-fidis, etc. +And among the forest trees are a vast Dipterocarpus, the same we met with +en route to Kujoo, _Dillenia speciosa_, etc. Piper and Chloranthus are +likewise not uncommon. There is no peculiar feature connected with the +existence of the tea in such a place, and in such a limited extent. We +were fortunate enough to find it both in flower and fruit, owing to its +site; its growth is tall and slender, and its crown at least that of the +smaller, very small and ill developed. Large trees are rare; in fact, +they have been all cut down by the Singfos, who are like all other +natives excessively improvident. The largest we saw, and which Wallich +felled, was, including the crown, 43 feet in length. Small plants are +very common, although Bruce had already removed 30,000. Mac. thinks they +grow chiefly on the margins of the ravinules or hollows. Their leaves +were all large, of a very dark green, and varying from four to eight +inches in length. The pith of the tree felled was excentric, the greater +development taking place as usual on the southern side; it was two and a +half inches N., three and a half S.; but about 10 feet above the base +this excentricity was nearly doubled. The wood is very compact, and the +tree apparently one of slow growth. The largest that Bruce has seen, and +which he felled last year, was 29 cubits in length. The jungle was so +thick that all general views as to its real extent, and the circumstances +limiting it, must be very superficial. To the East the cessation of the +lightness of the soil and of the hollows is very abrupt, and strongly +influences the tea, only a few small straggles being visible in that +direction. The jungle here was choked with grasses, and the large +viscous Acanthaceae of which we have elsewhere en route seen such +abundance. The tree evidently, even in its large state, owes little +gratitude to the sun, at least for direct rays, none of which I should +think ever reach it. The Singfos however say, that it will only thrive +in the shade. We halted after gathering a crop of leaves under a fine +Dillenia, which was loaded with its fruit. Here the Singfos demonstrated +the mode in which the tea is prepared among them. I must premise, +however, that they use none but young leaves. They roasted or rather +semi-roasted the leaves in a large iron vessel, which must be quite +clean, stirring them up and rolling them in the hands during the +roasting. When duly roasted, they expose them to the sun for three days; +some to the dew alternately with the sun. It is then finally packed into +bamboo chungas, into which it is tightly rammed. The ground on which it +occurs is somewhat raised above the plain adjoining the village, as we +passed over two hillocks on our route to the tea, and the descent did not +evidently counterbalance the ascent. + +_Jan_. _17th_.--We arrived at Kujoo-doo this afternoon, having passed +through a great extent of jungle, which I am sorry to say presented the +usual features. We crossed the Deboro once during our march, and several +tributary streams which, as may be supposed, from the size of the +_larger_ recipient river, are excessively insignificant. The soil +throughout, a good part seemed to be of clay. The only plants of +interest we found were two Bambusae in flower, and two species of +Meniscium, and a _Polypodium venulis_ tertiariis simplicibus. A +_Sarcopyramis Sonerilae_ was also found, but rather past flowering, and +an Acrostichum? or Lomaria? We did not observe any ravinules or hollows, +although mounds were by no means uncommon. + +_Jan_. _18th_.--We proceeded in a Southerly direction, and after marching +for nearly seven hours arrived at, and encamped on, a largish plain, on +which paddy had been extensively cultivated. The whole route lay through +a vast and deep jungle, the road running partly on the side of an old +bund: part of our road was through very wet ground, part through rather +dry elevated woods, bamboos of two species occurred abundantly. We saw +several vast specimens of Dipterocarpus, one which had been cut down +measured from the base to first branch 110 feet. Ferns still continue in +excess. I gathered another species of _Sarcopyramis_; a _Goodyera_, +_Chrysobaphus Roxburghii_ in flower, but rare; and an Apostasia not in +flower. + +_Jan 19th_.--We reached Negrigam early in the forenoon although we did +not leave our ground before 10 A.M. The road to the village was pretty +good. Negrigam is a largish village on the north bank of the Booree +Dihing, which is here a considerable though not deep stream. This bank +is at the site of the village very high. The population seemed to be +considerable. To the south, large ranges of hills were visible, the +first of which were close enough to admit of one's distinguishing them to +be wooded to the top. The inner ranges were lofty. We had some +difficulty in ascertaining where the tea was located, the accounts being +rather contradictory. At length we proceeded up the bed of a small +river, Maumoo, which runs into the Booree Dihing close to the village: +after wading along in the waters for two hours we arrived at a khet where +we encamped. The direction being from Negrigam N.W. along the banks of +this stream. The Pavia I first observed at Silam Mookh, was abundant, +and some of the specimens were very fine, the largest was a handsome, +very shady tree, of perhaps thirty feet high. The only plant of interest +was _Gnetum scandens_. On a high land bank I gathered a species of +Polytrichum, and one of Bartramia. + +_January 20th_.--This morning we crossed the small streamlet Maumoo, +ascended its rather high bank, and within a few yards from it came upon +the tea: which as we advanced farther into the jungle increased in +abundance; in fact within a very few yards, several plants might be +observed. The plant was both in flower and ripe fruit, in one instance +the seeds had germinated while attached to the parent shrub. No large +trees were found, the generality being six or seven feet high; all above +this height being straggling, slender, unhandsome shrubs: the leaves upon +the whole were, I think, smaller than those of the Kujoo plants. With +respect to the plants with which it is here associated, I may observe +that they were nearly the same with those of the Kujoo jungle, but here +there was nevertheless one striking difference, that the jungle was by no +means so dark in consequence of the smaller size of the jungle trees. The +underwood consisted chiefly of ferns, among which _Polipodium unitum_ +was very common, and a Lycopodium. Bamboos occurred here and there, +although by no means so extensively as at Kujoo. + +_Chrysobaphus Roxburghii_, and a new _Dicksonia_, _D_. _Griffithiana_, +Wall. were the plants of the greatest interest. With regard to the +limits of the tea, it is by all accounts of no very great extent; but +this is a point upon which it is difficult to say any thing decisive, in +consequence of the thickness of the jungle. The space on which we found +it may be said to be an elbow of the land, nearly surrounded by the +Manmoo river, on the opposite side of which, where we were encamped, it +is reported not to grow. Within this space the greater part consists of +a gentle elevation or rather large mound. On this it is very abundant, +as likewise along its sides, where the soil is looser, less sandy, and +yellow (McClell.); along the base of this I think it is less common, and +the soil is here more sandy, and much darker (McClell.) We partly +ascertained that it was limited to the west, in which direction we soon +lost sight of it. To the south and eastward of the elbow of land it is +most common, but here it is, as I have said above, stopped by the river. + +The greatest diameter of the stem of any plant that I saw in this place, +might be two or three inches, certainly not more. + +_Nadowar_, _Feb_. _17th_.--Our route from this village, at which we were +encamped, to the tea locality in the neighbouring forest, lay for the +first time partly over paddy fields, the remainder over high ground +covered with the usual grasses, with here and there a low strip; all was +excessively wet. We next traversed a considerable tract of tree jungle, +perhaps for nearly a mile; this was a drier and higher soil than the rice +ground. On the northern flank of this, and close to the edge of the +jungle we came to the tea, situated on a low strip of ground. + +This plant here occupies an extremely limited space, and its greatest, +and indeed almost only extent, is from south to north. It is in one spot +excessively thick, and many of the plants had attained a considerable +size, but the largest had been cut down, when it was visited by people +from Suddiya in search of tea some short time ago. It had just passed +flowering; all the plants looked well, better I think than those of +Kujoo. The soil was very much like that of the Kujoo and Negrigam +jungles, and was remarkable for its great dryness and looseness, in spite +of the long continued and heavy rains. That near the surface was dark +brown, below yellow brown, and the deeper it was examined the more yellow +it seemed to become. We satisfied ourselves that its depth extended +lower than two feet from the surface. The space the plant occupies in +any numbers certainly does not exceed forty yards in length, by twenty- +five in breadth. About fifty yards to the north several plants occurred, +but the soil here was of a much darker tint, although it appeared to be +nearly as dry as the other. The accompanying diagram may give some idea +of its situation. + +_February 17th_.--We arrived at Rangagurrah, the capital of the Muttack +country, and the residence of the Burra-seena Puttee, or Bengmara. Our +route thither occupied us, inclusive of the day spent in examining the +tea at Noadwar, five days. During the three first, we passed through a +low country admirably, and almost exclusively, adapted for rice +cultivation, and consequently abounding in wild wading birds and water- +fowl. + +As we approached Rangagurrah the ground became higher, in addition to +which it is better drained. We crossed about two miles from Rangagurrah +a small rivulet, a tributary of the Deboro; no plants but one of much +interest was detected _en route_. That one was a fine forest tree +affecting damp low places, apparently very limited in extent. It is a +new genus, belonging to Hamemelideae, and we have called it _Sedgwickia_ +_cerasifolia_. On our arrival at Rangagurrah we were met by the Burra- +seena Puttee, 'Big warrior,' who escorted us to the houses he had caused +to be erected for us, and which were at a little distance from the +village itself. During our association with him or with his country, he +was remarkably attentive and civil, and as he is an independent man he +pleased me much. On the -- Feb. we reached Tingrei, a poor village about +ten miles to the S.E. of Rangagurrah, situated on the west bank of the +rivulet of the same name, another tributary of the Deboroo. On the same +morning as the march was very short, we proceeded to examine the tea, and +the following day was likewise given up to another examination. The tea +here may be characterised as dwarf, no stems that I saw exceeding fifteen +feet in height; it had just passed flowering. It occurs in great +abundance, and to much greater extent than in any of the places at which +we had previously examined it. But here it is neither limited by +peculiarity of soil or such slight elevation as the place affords; it +grows indiscriminately on the higher ground where the soil is of a +brownish yellow, and on which it attains a larger size than elsewhere, or +on clumps occurring in low raviny ground and associated with fine +bamboos. This ground was intersected by a very tortuous dry nullah bed, +on the banks of which tea was very abundant. On either side of the +jungle in which it is found, extensive clearings occur, so that it is +impossible to say what its original extent may have been; I am inclined +to think, however that its limit was with the commencement of a small +clearing running to the N.W. of a village situated on the west bank of +the Tingrei, and that not much has been cut down. + +[The Himalaya from Rangagurrah: p19.jpg] + +The extent may be roughly estimated as follows, reckoning from the +entrance into the jungle in a south easterly direction: the one in fact +of our route from the village to the tea. + +S.E. 180 yards, after which it disappears, but shews itself again +sparingly about 100 yards further on, and in the same direction. + +To the S. of this I found none, its direction being totally changed; its +general direction being now, + +N.W. or N.N.W. in which, and in about 200 yards from the place at which +it ceased towards the south, it becomes very abundant, and continues so +in a + +W.N.W. course for about 220 yards. + +Thence it appears to be interrupted for the space of 80 or 100 yards. + +It then recommences a course + +N. by W. for about 100 yards, when it is terminated by cultivated ground +to the east, and low raviny ground to the west. + +200 yards to the north, and close to a small village, it is very +abundant, and at least its stumps with numerous shoots, occupy almost the +whole of a small clearing bounded on the N.E. by the rivulet Tingrei. It +may be supposed to extend for a little distance into the contiguous +jungle to the N.W. + +On the whole, it may be said to occupy a narrow strip of jungle, +extending from the village Tingrei in a S.E. direction about a .25 of a +mile. I consider the plants here as finer than in any of the other tea +jungles, the crown being much better developed owing at least in some +parts to the less denseness of the jungle. The fact of the shoots +appearing from the bases of the stems which had been cut down in the +small clearing above mentioned, gave us good opportunities of seeing the +effects of exposure to the sun. This they seemed to bear well, but the +shoots were rather too much elongated, and the leaves had too much of a +yellow tint to indicate that such was their natural situation. No part +of the soil on which tea was found was like the soil of Nadowar or +Manmoo; still, although stiffer than the others, it was characterised by +a certain lightness. + +The superstratum was very light, and brownish black, the remainder +yellowish brown, the yellow tints as well as the stiffness increasing +downwards. The soil was here deeper than in any of the other sites. + +Many parts of the ground were excessively low, and very probably +inundated during the rains. + +From the fact of its occurring in such abundance in the small clearing to +the N.W. of the village, I am induced to suppose that it had at some +period extended down the large clearing which runs 200 yards to the south +of the above village. + +The associated vegetation presented no peculiarities; several plants, +with which we had not previously met, occurred. One, a Stauntonia, was +found, which may be supposed from analogy to indicate a certain coldness +of climate. But on the other hand, it was associated with so many +tropical forms that not much reliance can be placed on this isolated +fact. + +On the 25th we returned to Rangagurrah, where the elephants and dowaniers +(_drivers_) were dismissed. On the 26th we commenced returning by the +Deboroo, the descent of which occupied two days and a half. + +Here let me express my opinion that in cases like ours, where a set of +men are deputed to examine countries, time spent on rivers is absolutely +thrown away. Of course in many instances such must be the case, but +where it is avoidable, marching, and especially returning by a different +route, should be adopted. Rangagurrah, be it known, is only two days' +march from Suddiyah in a direct line, yet we have been a month proceeding +by the circuitous line of rivers between these places. + + + +CHAPTER II. + + +_Journal of a trip to the Mishmee Mountains_, _from the_ +_Debouching of the Lohit to about ten miles East of_ +_the Ghalooms_. _Lat_. _27 degrees 50' to 28 degrees 10'_ +_N_.; _Long_. _95 degrees 20' to 96 degrees 40' E_. + +I left Suddiya on the morning of the 15th October 1836, and halted at Noa +Dihing Mookh, (river mouth) a place abounding in fish, and promising +excellent sport both in fly and live-bait fishing. The temperature of +the Noa Dihing, an indolent stream flowing over a flat, sandy plain, was +79 degrees; that of the B. pooter, which falls in large volume rapidly +from the mountains, was 67 degrees. Fish congregate in vast numbers at +the junction of rivers of different temperatures, and are there more +easily captured than in other situations, a fact that ought to be borne +in mind, whether for the mere object of sport or the more practical +purpose of fisheries in India. + +The following day (16th) we passed Choonpoora, where the rapids commence, +and where stones first appear; one rapid, a little above Choonpoora, is +severe. There is a severe one also at Toranee Mookh, on which the Copper +temple is situated; and one at Tingalee Mookh, on which Lattow is +situated. The river now commences to be more subdivided; there is but +little sand deposited alone, but vast beds of sand and stones occur +together. The banks are clothed with jungle, and are occasionally +skirted with tall grasses, but the _churs_ or islands disappear it may be +said with the sands, and are only formed in lower and more distant parts +from the mountains, where the velocity of the current is less. +Temperature at 6 A.M. 66 degrees, 4 P.M. 76 degrees, (water of B. pooter +64.65,) 7 P.M. 72 degrees. + +Buffaloes abundant, but I only saw a few. + +The most interesting plants were a Cyclocodon, Liriodendron, Sanicula: 32 +species were collected. + +_Oct_. _17th_.--Reached Karam Mookh, about noon. Rapids much increased, +some very severe, especially that opposite Karam Mookh, which we crossed +without accident, although as we crossed a confluence of two rapids, the +water in the middle being much agitated; it was a wonder that no canoes +were upset. The bed of the river is still more divided, the spots +between the streams being for the most part entirely composed of stones. +The lowest temperature of the B. pooter was 63 degrees. A severe but +short rapid occurs at Karam Mookh itself, the fall being very great, but +the body of water small. The water of this river is beautifully clear. +Its temperature at the Mookh 72 degrees. The jungle extends down to both +edges of the water, and the stream is not divided into branches. My +guide in the evening disgusted me by asking how many days I intended to +stop at the Koond before my return to Suddiya, when I had engaged him +expressly to go into the Mishmee hills, and not merely to Brama Koond, as +the above question implied. But such is the way in which our best +designs depending on native agency are often tampered with. Thermometer +at 8 P.M. 64 degrees. Species of Conaria grow abundantly on the banks! + +_Oct_. _18th_.--We are still in the Karam river. Reached about noon the +Kamptee village, Palampan, or rather its Ghat. This Karam river is +tortuous, generally shallow, with a more or less stony bed; it is nothing +more in fact than a succession of rapids, between each of which the slope +is very gentle, so that one makes good progress. Temperature at 6 A.M. +66 degrees in the canoe; but in the hut in which I slept, it is as low as +60 degrees. The dews are very heavy, and the jungle, as before, comes +down to the edges of the water, but scarcely affords any marked feature. +_Kydia calycina_ is common, as is likewise a large Mimoseous tree. +There is apparently very little diminution in the volume of water, though +several minor streams were passed between this and the Mookh. +Liriodendron is becoming more frequent. The views of the mountains are +very varied; and that of the Koond defile or Chasm, very beautiful; water- +falls seem to be distinctly visible down one hill or mountain, in +particular. The finest view however is on the Lohit, opposite Dyaroo +Mookh, at which place the three huge, ever snowy peaks, characteristic of +the Mishmee portion of the mountains, are distinctly seen. + +Left the Ghat for the village which is situate on the Dea-soon or +Simaree, which flows into the Tenga-panee, and which is said now to carry +off so much water from the Karam that this river ceases a short distance +above this place to become navigable for boats like mine. The path we +pursued ran in a S.E. or S.S.E. direction for about a mile; it is good, +and leads through a thick jungle: the village contains probably fifteen +houses. The Gohain, or _chief_, is a most respectable-looking man, and +of very fair complexion. His people are for the most part stout. The +women also of very fair complexion, with their hair tied in a large knot +on the top of the head, in a peculiar way, putting one in mind of fat +Norman damsels. Temperature in the boat to-day 76 degrees, the sky +beautifully clear. The B. pooter seems still the only river, the +temperature of which is always below that of the air. One interesting +Elaeocarpus occurred--Petal. viridibus apice dentatis; calice griseo +viridi, _vix valvato_. I may remark, that the aestivation of Kydia is +scarcely valvate. I saw a, to me, new kingfisher and wood-pecker. The +black and white kingfisher, _Dalcedo rudus_, is not found on the B. +pooter beyond the termination of the sand banks. + +_Oct_. _18th_--Temperature in my hut at 5.5 A.M. is 56 degrees, outside +it is 52.5 degrees, that of the river water 63 degrees. We left about 8, +and proceeded up the Karam, which presented nothing singular. The volume +of water is now less, and rapids are more frequent: heavy snow is visible +from a little above Palampan Ghat, where the river bends to the +northward; and a little further on a fine view of the Koond occurs. The +Chasm is bounded in the rear by the fine rugged peak so distinctly seen +from Suddiya due east. About 11, we reached the Ghat, beyond which +boats, except of the smallest description, cannot pass; and about 1, +started for the Mishmee village Jing-sha, situated on the Karam. Our +course was along the bed of the river, and nearly due east. Formerly +boats were able to reach the Ghat of the village, but the water has +become shallower, owing, they say, to a larger portion being carried off +by the Dea-soon, which runs into the Tenga-panee. We reached the village +Ghat about four in the afternoon, but our people arrived very little +before six o'clock. The march was tedious and difficult, owing to the +numerous stones which are strewed in the way: and the necessity for +crossing the river was so frequent, that all idea of shoes was quite out +of the question. To increase the difficulty, the stones in the bed of +river are very slippery, and as we crossed rapids, it frequently required +some care to prevent our falling. + +We were met by the Gam, or chief, before any signs of the village there +were visible. The population is small; the people fair, but begrimed +with dirt; the dress consists of a loose jacket without sleeves. The +primary article of clothing is indeed so scanty, that the less one says +about it the better. The women are decently clothed, and have generally +enormous calves, certainly bigger than those of the men: their favourite +ornament seems to be a band of silver, broadest across their forehead, +which encircles their head. This village is close to the hills, and +within a day's journey of the Koond, at least for a Mishmee. One +Assamese slave is among the inhabitants, who was sold when a boy. A few +of the men have Singfo dhaos or swords, others miserable knives, and some +the usual spear so general with the tribes on this frontier. But in +general the weapons of these people are most insignificant. The view of +the hills is not fine from this place; it is too close to see any of +great height, and they soon disappear to the westward. In the evening +that of the Koond, which bears E.N.E. by N. is fine, particularly one +mountain, which is known at once by its numerous cascades or appearances +of water-falls, which, although they appear like streaks of white to the +eye, are distinctly visible through a telescope. The bed of the Karam is +almost entirely stony, and the immediate banks are clothed with grass. +The jungle is of the usual thick description. The Gam, whose name is +Jingsha, is a respectable looking man, fair in his dealings, and willing +to oblige. They all have tobacco pipes. + +_Oct_. _19th_.--Halted to enable the people to bring up the baggage, and +we shall in all probability have to halt to-morrow. I paid a visit to +the Gam's house, Jingshi; it is to the S.E. of the Ghat, and about a mile +and a half distant from it. The houses are all detached, and almost +buried in jungle. Jingsha's house is a good one, very long, and well +built; he has only about five skulls. {24} _Mont_ was handed round to +the Mishmees in large bamboo cups. From our encampment, abundance of +clearances for cultivation are visible on the hills. Those to N., S., +S.E. are of some extent, and belong to a Mishmee Gam, Tapa. Some fine +timber trees exist on the road to the village, and a very large Ficus: no +particular plants occur except a Chloranthus, fructibus albis, which is +also common towards Palampan. Thermometer at noon, in imperfect shade, +83 degrees. + +_Oct_. _20th_.--The temperature of the air at 5.5 A.M. was 57.5 degrees. +That of water, 60 degrees. I was obliged to halt again to enable the +rice to be brought up. To-day we gathered on the banks of the Karam, a +tree in fruit, Fol. alterna, impari-pinnata, stipulis caducis. Cymi +compositi dichotomi; calyce minuto, 4 dentato, reflexo; corolla coriacea, +viridi, rotata; stamina 4, hypogyna, gynobasi, maxima; carpellis 4, +aggregatis, 1, 3, fecundalis, globosis, atro-cyaneis, baccatis; stylis +lateralibus; semen 1, exalbumosum arbuscula mediocris; one Chrysobalanea? +one Ochnacea? + +Yesterday they brought me a beautiful snake, Collo gracillimo, colore +pulchre fusco, maculis aterrimis, capite magno; {25} has all the +appearance of being venomous. To-day we passed another place for +catching fish: the water is prevented from escaping, (except at the place +where the current is naturally most violent,) by a dam composed of +bamboos, supported by triangles, from the centre of which hang heavy +stones: the fish are prevented passing down except at the above spot, and +here they are received on a platform of bamboo: the stream is so strong +through this point, that when once the fish have passed down they are +unable to return. One of these fish-traps on a larger scale exists below +Palampan. + +The Karam debuts from the hills a little to the S. of east of Jingsha +Ghat: the chasm is very distinct. Temperature at 2 P.M. 87 degrees, at +sunset 76 degrees, 8 P.M. 68 degrees. + +_Oct_. _21st_.--Left the Ghat about 9, and proceeded over the same +difficult ground down the Karam until we arrived at Laee Mookh. This +occupied about an hour; our course thence lay up the Laee, which runs +nearly due east. The bed of the river throughout the lower part of its +course is 60 or 70 yards across: the journey was as difficult as that on +the Karam. Towards 2 P.M. we were close to the hills, and the river +became contracted, not exceeding 30 or 40 yards across. It is here only +that large rock masses are to be found, but the boulders are in no case +immense. We arrived at the place of our encampment about 4 P.M., the +porters coming up much later. The march was in every respect most +fatiguing. Temperature about 6 A.M. 58 degrees, outside 57 degrees. +Water 60 degrees. Temperature of Laee at sunset 66 degrees. Of the air +71 degrees. + +_Oct_. _22nd_.--Cloudy: during the night we were much annoyed by heavy +gusts of wind sweeping down the river. Left our encampment at 7.5, and +struck into the jungle, the porters still continuing along the course of +the river; after crossing some rising ground we reached a path, which is +tolerably good. Our course lay about N.E.; we crossed over some low +hills, and after marching for about an hour and a quarter, came upon the +Koond Chasm, or great defile; of which, however, from the thickness of +the jungle, we had no view. We then descended a very steep, but not very +high hill, and came upon the Koond; of which nothing is at first seen but +large masses of rock strewed in every direction. We were accompanied by +a number of Jingsha Gam's people, and in the evening we were visited by +Tapan Gam himself, with a train of followers. This man assumes the +sovereignty of the Koond. We encamped immediately under the Faqueer's +Rock, which is known to the Mishmees by the name "Taihloo Maplampoo." The +south bank is wooded to its brink, but not very densely: it is +excessively steep, and in many places almost perpendicular. The strata +composing it is partly limestone, lying at an angle of 45 degrees, and in +many places at a greater one. The scenery is picturesque and bold: on +either side of the river are hills rising abruptly to the height of a few +hundred feet, but the hills are continued longer on the north side. From +the Rock the river seems to run W.N.W. for a quarter of a mile, and then +bends to the S.W. The breadth of the bed is a good hundred yards, but +the stream at this season is confined to the fifty yards near the south +bank, the remainder being occupied by rocks in situ, or boulders and +sand: the edge of the N. bank is occupied by stunted _Saccharum_. The +appearance of the water is characteristic, of a greyish green tinge, +giving the impression of great depth. It is only here and there that it +is white with foam, its general course being rather gentle. It is in +various places encroached upon more or less by the rocks forming its bed, +some of which are quite perpendicular. A little to the west of the +Faqueer's Rock there is an immense mass of rock in the bed of the river, +between which and the south bank there is now very little water and no +current. The rocks are generally naked; here and there they are +partially clothed with Gramineae, and a Cyperaceous-looking plant, +something like an Eriophorum. The river, a short distance beyond the Deo- +panee, takes a bend to the north; at the point where it bends there is a +considerable rapid. + +[Bramakhoond and Faqueer's Rock: p26.jpg] + +The Faqueer's Rock itself is a loose mass of rugged outline, about 50 +feet high: access to its summit is difficult to anybody but a Mishmee; it +is, however, by no means impracticable. The path by which it may be +gained, leads from the eastward. At the summit is an insulated, rounded, +rugged mass of rock, on which the faqueers sit. It is however the +descent by the path to the east which is difficult, and people generally +choose another path to the west. This rock is clothed with ferns +epiphytical Orchideae, an Arundo, and a few stunted trees are very common +at its summit. Between it and the hill is another much smaller mass, and +the intervening spaces are occupied by angular masses of rock. These +spaces both lead westward to that corner of the river into which the Deo- +panee falls. Eastward they lead to the margin of the bank. + +The north face of the Faqueer's Rock is excavated into a hollow of the +Deo Dowar. It has no resemblance to a Gothic ruin, which form is, I +believe, peculiar to calcareous rocks. It is this rock which, by its +eastern extremity projecting into the water, forms the reservoirs into +which the Deo-panee falls, or rather at this season runs; the place +resembles merely a sort of bay. The water-mark of floods visible on some +of the rocks, is probably eight feet above that of this time of the year. +The reservoir is completed by a projection from the rocks forming the +south bank, but it is almost entirely abstracted from the stream. The +south bank immediately beyond this is extremely precipitous, and very +high. The Faqueer's Rock is three-peaked; two peaks can only be seen +from the Deo-panee, the third is the low one to the west, the middle is +the highest, and is perforated: the eastern represents a sugar-loaf +appearance. Two distinct streams run into the reservoirs, the bed of one +forms the second defile before alluded to: this is very insignificant. +The other occupies the corner of the bay, and can only be seen from a low +station on the sand beneath: it is an attempt at a small water-fall. + +_Oct_. _23rd_.--To-day I have been employed in collecting plants. Nearly +due east of the Koond, and at a distance of about 40 yards, the face of +the hill is perpendicular, and in some places overhanging; its extremity +juts out into the stream, which here flows with great violence; the banks +are occupied by masses of rock strewed in every direction, resulting from +a landslip of great size: some of these masses are enormous. The greater +portion of the slip is clothed with herbage and trees, so that it is of +some age, or standing; but in one place over the river it is clean, as if +fresh formed, and white-looking much like chalk. This cliff in many +parts is a dripping well, particularly in one extremity where a good deal +of water falls. It is clothed with the Eriophorum, which hangs down in +long tufts; the moist parts with an Adiantum much like A. C. Veneris, a +beautiful Pteris, a Pothos or Arum foliis pulchre nigro tinctis, and some +mosses; B. speciosa out of flower, and some Hepaticae, Ruta albiflora, +etc. Between this and the Deo-panee a small stream enters the Lohit: +following this up to some height, one arrives at a pretty water-fall; +here it is inaccessible in this direction, but by following a branch of +the stream to the west, one may arrive at the summit of the hill, from +which however no view is to be obtained. The summit is ridge-like, and +excessively sharp; the descent on either side almost precipitous. I +found several fine ferns up this hill; at its base an Acer and fine +Equisetum. + +[The Mori-Panee as it enters the Khoond: p27.jpg] + +The Koond is apparently formed by the Deo-panee and Mori-panee. In the +rains it must be a rather striking object, now however it is at this +season, lost amidst the fine surrounding scenery. How the Faqueer's Rock +and the rock between it and the Mori-panee were detached, is difficult to +say. It is evident, however, that formerly the two rivers were not +united to form the Koond as at present, but that they had each their own +channels when the Faqueer's Rock must have stood between them. In fact +both channels, in which water has flowed, still remain. My broken +Thermometer pointed out the low temperature of the Lohit water, and 208 +degrees was the point at which water boiled in two experiments. All +attempts at passing along the river on this side would be vain, owing to +a cliff which is totally impracticable. The Mishmees know of no rivulet +called the Mtee; probably this has been mistaken for the Mishmee name for +water, _Mchee_. The way Wilcox went I am at a loss to ascertain; as he +could not have passed the Koond, he must have gone above it; although the +hills are said to be impracticable for loaded coolies. + +_Oct_. _25th_.--The Koond is obviously little frequented. I left +sometime after the coolies, pursuing the path leading to Ghaloom's, which +extends to the eastward. An hour and a quarter brought me again to the +Laee-panee, and three hours and a half to Laee Mookh: from this place to +Jingsha Ghat is scarcely an hour's walk. The day's journey occupied +about five hours inclusive of stoppages: the distance is probably about +twelve miles. I came to the determination of returning, owing to the +known difficulty of the route pursued by Wilcox, and the impossibility of +making a collection of grain. The Tapan Gam, or Lord of the Koond, +particularly insisted on the impossibility of ordinary coolies going this +way, and as he offered men to bring up grain from the plains, I at once +acceded to his proposal of making a granary in his village. This man had +no delicacy in asking for presents: he at once said, "You must give gold, +silver, and every thing in the calendar of presents to the Deo," meaning +himself. As I found it impracticable to satisfy him, I sent him off with +a small present, promising more when he should have amassed the grain. +His brother, a tall, stout, and much more useful man, (as he does not +refuse to carry loads,) on seeing me rub salt on a bird's skin, remarked, +"What poor devils we are! Bird's skins with salt supply the Sahibs with +food, while we can't get a morsel." They promised to take me all over +the country, and to be my slaves, if I would point out to them where salt +is to be found. + +[The Deo-Panee as it enters the Khoond: p28.jpg] + +I saw nothing particular in the woods. I picked up the fruit of a +Magnolia and Castanea, and observed an arborescent Leea. Some of the +timber is fine. A large Acrotirchea abounds between Laee and the Koond, +as well as Chloranthus. Near the Laee a climber, the base of whose stem +is elephantopoid and enormous considering the slender stem, is abundant. +I could not get any of the leaves. At the Koond, Buddleia Neemda, a +Prunus, etc. occur. Caelogyne polleniis 4 obovatis, faciebus +incumbentibus complanates materie pulverea, mediocri. Dundoons are +rather troublesome; they are flies, and nearly as large as an ordinary +house fly: their proboscis is large, and leaves spots of extravasated +blood where they bite, nearly of the size of an ordinary pin's head. + +_Oct_. _27th_.--My people brought me in a beautiful snake, _Coluber_ +_porphyraceus_, ventre albo, caeterum pulchre coccineo-badio, capite +lineis nigris tribus quarum centralis brevior, dorso lineis nigris duabus +postea gradatim evanescentibus, lineis circularibus minus conspicuis, +iridibus carneis. {29a} + +_Oct_. _28th_.--Yesterday evening two elephants arrived with grain, so +that I have every prospect of being fairly on my way in a day or two. +Nothing worth seeing has occurred, except a man who by some accident had +the lobe of his ear torn, and had the fragments stitched together with +silver wire. + +_Oct_. _31st_.--Halted at the Laee-panee, and gathered an Oberonea, and +specimens of fish. {29b} + +_Nov_. _1st_.--Dirty weather; rain looking much as if it were going to +continue for several days. There is a small drupaceous fruit found here +and at Beesa, the Singfo name of which is Let-tan-shee; it is the produce +of a large tree probably the fruit of a Chrysobalanus, testibus stylo +_laterali_, stam, perigynis: cotyledonibus crispatis. The flavour is +acid, rather pleasant, and somewhat terebinthinaceous. + +_Nov_. _2nd_.--I thought it best to set off, although it was raining +heavily. Our course lay in an E. direction up the Karam for about two +hours, when it diverged: it thence after passing through some heavy +jungle continued up the steep bed of the now dry Dailoom; it next +diverged again about 2 P.M., when we ascended a small hill; it continued +thence through heavy jungle chiefly bamboo, until we descended in an +oblique manner on the Laee-panee, about a mile up which we found our +halting place. The whole march occupied, including a few halts, seven +hours; and as the pace was pretty good for six full hours, I compute the +distance to be about fifteen miles. Hill Flora recommenced in the bamboo +jungle; two fine species of Impatiens and several Urticeae making their +appearance; _Camellia axillaris_ and some fine Acanthacea: the best +plant was a species of Aristolochea. The latter part of the day was +fine, and the elephants with grain from Suddiyah arrived. + +_Nov_. _3rd_.--Passed the forenoon in ascending the hill opposite our +encampment: it is of no great height, but like all the others very steep. +To the N.W. of this has occurred a large slip, but long previous to this +time; on it two or three Phaeniceous palms may be found. Pandanus still +occurs. The hill was barren of Botany, excepting a few ferns towards +base. + +_Nov_. _4th_.--Left Laee-panee at 9.5 A.M., and reached the encampment at +3.5 P.M. Our course diverged almost immediately from the last +encampment, and we ascended for some time up the bed of a torrent. The +first hill we ascended occupied an hour, and the remainder of the day's +journey consisted of ascents and descents along the most difficult path +imaginable. All the hills are very steep, and the paths when they wind +round these, are very difficult; a slip would cause a dangerous fall. +About 1 P.M. we reached two or three houses constituting a village. + +From this, one has a fine view of the plains, and of the B. pooter near +its exit from the hills: it is much intersected by islets covered with +jungle. Leeches are not very numerous. Dundoons or sand flies very +annoying. I have gathered plenty of plants, especially ferns. Wallichia +continues; _Wulfenia obliqua_, and a Companula were the best. At our +halting place I found the fruits of _Sedgwickia_ in abundance. Passed +two or three streams. Found the flowers of a large Loranthus, or rather +its very large flowers on the ground. They are eaten by the natives, but +the acidity is unpleasant, owing to its being mixed with a bitter; the +flowers are two inches long: tubo 4 angulato, basi-coccinescenti, laminis +viridibus interstibus carneis, coccineo lineatis praesenti transverse, +antheris syngenesis. _Sarcocordalis_, common. + +_Nov_. _5th_.--Left at half-past 8, and reached extensive _kheties_ +(cultivated fields) with dispersed houses at about 1 P.M. This place is +called Dilling. Our route consisted of the same fatiguing marching: we +passed over some hills, from which we had fine views. The first gave us +a fine sight of the Patkaye mountains, {31} S.E. of Upper Assam, which +reach apparently a great height. The second, of the plains of Assam. The +exact summits of all the hills are covered with a coarse spicate +Saccharum. On one we met with a Melampyracea. The Botany is improving +greatly; two species of Viola, two fine Cyrthandraceae occurring. I also +noticed Sedgwickia again, and got abundance of ferns, a Buddleia, and a +fine Amaranthacea. Halted on a cleared ground immediately under the Red +mountain so plainly seen from Jingsha. There is now no appearance of +water-falls on it, but there are several white spots owing to slips: the +brink or brim of this hill is woody, but there is a considerable space +covered only with short grass. The strata are inclined at an angle of 45 +degrees. I here got two or three fine mosses. All the Mishmees have the +idea, that on some hills at least rain is caused by striking trees of a +certain size with large stones, some hills are again free from this +charm; it was ridiculous to hear them call out not to throw stones +whenever we approached one of these rainy hills. The people appear to +get dirtier the farther we advance. I saw plenty of snow on two high +peaks, and had a peep of the Lohit beyond Brahma Koond. Wallichia +continues, as well as Bambusa, Saccharum Megala. The kheties are either +of rice or Cynosurus or Zea. Tobacco is not cultivated, but left to take +care of itself. Buddleia Neemda and wild plantain continue, the latter +is probably a distinct species; leaves subtis glauco niveis. Pandanus +continues. The name of the Red mountain before alluded to, is Thu-ma- +thaya, the rivulet at its base is Tus-soo-muchee. Tus-soo Dee-ling is +the name of the place; a large mountain bearing N.N.E., is +Sun-jong-thaya. It is obvious that Dee-ling must be of some extent, as +my site does not agree with that of Wilcox. The view to the E. is +entirely limited to Thu-ma-thaya, and to the N.N.E., by Sun-jong-thaya; +no B. pooter is visible, nor is Ghaloom's house. The snow collects on +the Thu-ma-thaya this month: the clearings for cultivation on the +declivities of Thu-ma-thaya are called Chim-bra: the houses, although at +great distances from the village, are called _Yeu_. + +_Nov_. _6th_.--We arrived at our halting place after a march of seven +hours, over a most difficult and fatiguing road: we skirted throughout +the whole time the base of the huge Thu-ma-thaya; I never saw a worse +road, if road it may be called--part of it lay over places where a false +step or slip would be very dangerous, if not fatal. We came suddenly on +the B. pooter; but as the place was not a good one for crossing, we +prepared to go a little higher up the stream, and though the distance we +had to go was not above 100 yards, yet as the river side was +impracticable, it became necessary to ascend and descend by a most +difficult path where a slip would have precipitated one into the river +sixty or seventy feet below. What rendered this passage most difficult +and dangerous, was the jungle which, while it caused you to stoop, at the +same time concealed your footing. It is one of the characteristics of +Mishmees, that they sooner risk their necks than take the trouble of +cutting down underwood. + +We have scarcely passed Thu-ma-thaya, so that the distance we have +travelled in a direct line from Deeling must be very small. The stream +of the Lohit is not forty yards broad, but the bed is about sixty. It +has the appearance of great depth, and roars along amidst rocks in some +places in fine style. I here picked up some small branches of an elm, +very like U. virgata: the tree was too late to reach fruit. I also +gathered a fine Acanthacea, and some good ferns. The north bank of the +Lohit here has the same structure as the south at the Koond, and is +perpendicular. The water of the Lohit is certainly much cooler than any +of the mountain streams. Vast blocks of rock, of many sorts, lie strewed +on the south side; one in particular is quartzose, remarkable for the +indentations on its surface. I here gathered some mosses, and a good +Marchantiacea, very nearly allied to Octoskepos, but culiculate. Pandanus +still continues, as also Marlea, Wallichia, Caryota, and Pentaptera. +Passed several streams, and a pretty fall, the water falling down a cliff +almost perpendicular, about 100 feet high. The Mishmees use the fibres +and _reti_ of Caryota as an ornament to their baskets, from which it +likewise keeps the rain. Wild plantain continues. Our encampment is on +a fine bed of sand. + +_Nov_. _7th_.--Rain throughout the night at intervals, and sharp cold in +the morning; we left at 9 A.M. and arrived at our encampment about 12 +P.M. The first part of our march was very difficult, it in fact +consisted of crossing a precipice overhanging the Lohit; the difficulty +was increased by the slipperiness occasioned by the rain; no one could +pass some of the places unless aided by ratans fixed to trees, etc. We +came to the Sung river about 12 noon, but were delayed some time in +building a bridge. This river appears to me to be in some places +fordable, but the Mishmees say that it is not; the water is beautifully +clear. The first cane suspended bridge occurs here; I did not fancy it, +although I observed the Mishmees cross, the passage taking barely half a +minute. _Throughout the whole time_ the Mishmees use their legs +and arms, to accelerate or determine their progress; the inclination +caused by the weight is slight. I preferred one of our own erection, +about 100 yards distant from it. The height is not great over the river, +and the width is perhaps thirty yards. The Bourra crossed after some +delay; we were then obliged to make two halts: we followed the Sung down +to its mouth, which is barely 200 yards: its bed is rocky; at its +junction there is a large bay formed, on the N. side of which is a fine +sand bank. The Lohit there runs nearly N. and S., and is excessively +violent in its course, certainly ten miles an hour. The scenery is +pretty, but no hills of great height are seen to any extent. This is the +most romantic spot I have seen in my course of travels as yet. We forded +the bay about its centre, and encamped on the sand: the path we are to +follow is said to be above, and very difficult. We here gathered some +fine ferns and a Bleteoid Orchidea. A Gentianacea likewise occurred. The +Tapan Gam, on my inquiring, said, that Wilcox passed by the upper path, +the Lohit at that time running under the cliff which forms one side of +the bay. {33} The course of the river, he says, has since changed by the +occurrence of a large slip, principally of mica slate. + +_Nov_. _8th_.--The commencement of our march to-day was up a hill, the +ascent, as in all the other cases, being very steep. From its summit we +could see Dilling in a horizontal distance extremely near. We then +proceeded skirting the hill, and descended subsequently to the _O_. +rivulet, which is of no size. We then ascended another considerable +height, and found ourselves on the site of Ghaloom's old dwelling. The +situation was delightful; to the N.E., a high range was visible, which is +covered with snow, the pines on the lower parts of the ridge standing +out, in fine relief. To the N. was a noble peak bare at its summit, on +which snow rests during some months, its centre being prettily marked out +with numerous patches of cultivation. To the N. again the Tid-ding might +be seen foaming along the valleys; the hills are evidently improving in +height and magnificence of scenery. We reached this at 12 o'clock, our +march having lasted five hours. We thence descended crossing a small +stream at the base of the hill, on which Ghaloom's former house stood, +called the Dhaloom Basee. + +I thence proceeded over some nasty swampy ground with a few low +elevations until we reached Ghaloom's, which we did about 2 P.M. A small +spot was allotted to us some distance from the village, on which we +erected our huts. Ghaloom changed his residence to this place, owing to +the death of two of his people, which was attributed to the unhealthiness +of the former site; but as might be expected from the nature of the place +he has chosen, he has suffered very severely from fever since his +removal. As soon as our huts were built, Ghaloom and his brother Khosha +visited us, preceded by the hind quarter of a pig. Their appearance is +somewhat better than the ordinary run of Mishmees, but they are just as +dirty. Khosha is a little man, with a mahogany-coloured wrinkled face. +Great attention was paid by their attendants to all they said, and Khosha +himself is evidently the Demosthenes of the Mishmees. When interrupted, +he commanded silence in an authoritative way. Krisong was not present. +Khosha declares that Rooling, the Mezhoo chief, is nobody, and that +Wilcox gave him his present unknown to them. The acquisitions in Botany +consisted of some fine Cyrtandraceae, a Cymbidium, and some ferns. One +of these Cyrtandraceae is very singular: the runners are long, producing +one stem with a very small terminal leaf, and a very large flower. +Afterwards this leaf enlarges, becomes a large cordate Begonioid one, +bearing from its bosom apparently one or two Siliquae; Pandanus Bambusa +continue. The fine Quercus is common, _Megala_, _Podomolia_, Triumfetta, +Siegesbeckia. Cynoglossum, Callicarpa, Urena, Rottlera and several other +low tropical forms continue. The Cymbidioid has pollena 4, incumbentia +postice aliquoties minore, glandula nulla? + +_Nov_. _9th_.--Halted. Went to the suspension bridge over the Lohit, +which is about 60 yards across, or double the length of the one we +crossed on the 7th. The passage by Mishmees takes two, or two minutes +and a half, requiring continued exertion the whole time, both by hands +and feet, as above described. Both banks are very steep, yet the natives +are so confident of safety, that of this bridge only one cane is +trustworthy. Bathed in the river, which is very cold and deep, but +comparatively quiet. + +_Nov_. _10th_.--Went to the Lohit, gathered Cymbidium giganteum, two or +three ferns, and a Rafflesia in its several stages. I have not however +yet seen the perfectly expanded flower, the natives do not know it, +although it must be a sufficiently striking object, the alabastri before +expansion are about the size of an orange. Went to Ghaloom's house, +which is of great length, built of bamboos, raised high from the ground, +divided into about twelve compartments, and containing 100 men, women, +and children. + +_Nov_. _11th_.--Left for Khosha Gams; crossed the Lohit on a raft, and +left its banks at noon. Followed the river for some distance, and then +diverged towards the N.W. and reached Khosha at 3 P.M., the march owing +to the heat was very fatiguing. Found very few plants; noticed a flower +of a Ternstroemiacea nearly allied to the genus Camellia, cor. rotat. +lacin. reflexis, albis fauce carnea. stam. 00, epipet. anther. erectis- +apice dehiscent, and of a large Hibiscus; the Caelogyne of the Koond was +also found. Two species of Castaneae occur in these woods, one with very +stout thorns to its cupula, and not eatable fruit; the other has long +slender prickles, and its fruit about the size of an acorn, is eatable, +and not at all disagreeable. On all the hills of any height with grassy +tops Compositae are among the most striking forms. Areca parva +continues, Pentaptera, and Fici continue. Saccharum Megala very abundant +and fine. Cupuliferae are becoming more abundant. The roofs of the +houses which are built of bamboo, are covered with the leaves of the +Marantaceous genus--capitulis densis lateralibus _culmis_ I-foliosis. +Buddleia N'eemda and Callicarpa continue. + +Want of means forms the only limit to the number of wives of a Mishmee. A +rich man who has at his disposal numerous cattle, etc, will give 20 +_mithuns_; {35} but the wife appears to bring with her slaves, etc. as a +return. A poor man will get a wife for a pig. Whatever the number of +wives may be, each will have a separate khetee, (field) and each khetee +has a separate granary. All the wives live in the same house; in fact, +one house forms the village. Theft is punished by a fine inflicted by a +meeting of all the Gams; if the fine is not paid, or the offender refuses +to pay, he is slain in a general attack. Murder is punished in the same +way, but by a heavier fine: adultery against the consent of the husband, +or at least elopement, is punished by death; if with the consent of the +husband, the delinquent is fined. There appears to be no regular law of +succession: the favourite son succeeding without reference to age. + +_Nov_. _12th_.--I went out for plants, and descended to the Paeen +rivulet, which is of small size: followed up its course some way, and +then returned over a low hill to Khosha's. The guide who was some +distance behind, came up with a Rafflesia bud. I returned with him, and +saw it to perfection; he likewise succeeded in tracing the roots to a +gigantic Cissus, the fruit of which I have before observed is eatable, +and not unlike a greengage. I returned home loaded with this undescribed +genus: I found likewise a fine Buddleia, and Menispermum, with some rare +Compositae, among which was an arborescent Eupatorium and a gigantic +thistle, a Prunus in flower and fruit, and a neat Liparis, Calamus, Tree- +fern, Tupistra, Pandanus, were likewise observed, and a beautiful +Viburnum, Corol sterilibus, 4 phyllis, foliis niveis carneo venosis: +petal fertil calyptratis, deciduis, intus caeruleo tinctis: staminibus +cyaneis, ovariis pallide caeruleis, stigmatib. carnosis. + +_Nov_. _13th_.--Opposite Khosha's, or rather his granaries to the E. is a +high mountain excessively steep, only partially clothed with trees, and +with stunted ones at its summit, which in December and the colder months +is covered with snow: this they call Thaya-thro. + +Khosha positively refuses to take me any farther into the interior, and +Krisong begs that I won't come and see him. It is obvious that they are +under great fear of other tribes. Khosha says, he should be attacked by +all the Mishoos or Mizhoos, were he to conduct me any farther now, and +that very probably the Lamas would attack him likewise. He says the only +chance of success in penetrating to Lama, is to send previously a present +of salt, (about a seer) to all the chiefs, and request their leave, +without which preparatory donation, they would cut up any messengers he +might send. He offers to do this at any time, and to let me know the +result. He declined taking me to the Chibong Gam, a few days' journey up +the Diree, although the man is a relation of his own, and a Deboro +Mishmee. It is obvious that there is no chance of getting further at +present, nor would it be fair even if one could bribe them. He says no +reliance whatever is to be placed on Rooling, the Mizhoo who deceived +Wilcox, and whom he represents to be an underhand person. I tried to +overcome his scruples by assuring him that I only wanted to go as far as +Rooling, but he declines taking me. He says I may go any where to the +west of this, but to the north he dare not conduct me. I shall therefore +go to Premsong to-morrow, and if that is not a favourable place, return +forthwith to Ghaloom's, and thence to Deeling to botanise on Thuma-thaya. + +_Nov_. _14th_.--Proceeded to Premsong's, which we reached in less than +two hours. Our march was in a westerly direction across a hill of some +elevation: the remainder of it was over kheties and level ground. The +plants evidently increase in interest as we advance in the interior, +Compositae and Labiatae being most numerous. A large tree occurs not +uncommonly, which is either a Birch or a Prunus, most probably from the +venation of its leaves, the latter; the bark is exactly like that of a +Birch. Close to Premsong's I gathered a Clematis, Valerian and a fine +Botrychium, a Carex and a Cuscuta. The mountain on the base of which +Premsong's house is situated, is a very high one; it is the one that is +so striking from Ghaloom's old site: it is named Laimplan-thaya; its +summit, which is a high peak, is very rugged, partially clothed with +vegetation, in which, as in all the others of the same height autumnal +tints are very distinct. Thai-ka-thaya is a smaller peak to the S.S.W. +of Premsong's house. One of my Mishmee Dowaniers tells me that the +Mishmee (Coptis) teeta Khosha gave me last evening, is cultivated near +his native place; its flower buds are just forming and are enclosed in +ovate concave squamae. The leaves are of a lively green, not unlike +those of some ferns, but at once to be distinguished by the venation; it +is very evident that the Mishmees know nothing about the period of its +flowering, as they told me it flowered in the rains, at the same time as +the _dhak_ flowers in Assam; the radicles are numerous, tawny yellowish, +the rhizomata are rugged tortuous, the bark and pith are of yellow orange +colour, the woody system gamboge: this is the same in the petioles: it +tinges the saliva yellow. It is a pure intense bitter of some +permanence, but without aroma: it is dried over the fire, the drying +being repeated three times. Judging from it in its fresh state, the test +of its being recently and well dried is the permanence of the colors. The +_Bee_ flowers during the rains: its flower, (_on dit_) is white and +small; they pretend that it is very dangerous to touch, causing great +irritation; both Coptis teeta, and Bee, are found on high hills on which +there is now snow; one of them, the Ummpanee or Moochee, is accessible +from hence in three days. + +The Mishmee name for the Teeta, is _Yoatzhee_; of Bee, _Th'wee_; _Ghe_- +_on_ is the Mishmee name for the smelling root, which the Assamese call +Gertheon. The smell of this is a compound of Valeriana and Pastinaca; it +is decidedly aromatic, and not at all disagreeable, it is white inside +and abounds in pith, but has scarcely any taste. + +Yesterday evening I visited Khosha's house, which is of immense length, +and considerably longer, though not so high from the ground as Ghaloom's: +it is divided into upwards of twenty apartments, on the right hand side +of the passage are ranged the skulls of the cattle Khosha has killed, +including deer and pigs; on the other side are the domestic utensils, the +centre of the floor is occupied by a square earthen space for fire-place: +the bamboos, of which the floor is composed being cut away. From the +centre of each room over the fire-place, hangs a square ratan sort of +tray, from which they hang their meat or any thing requiring smoke; their +cooking utensils are, I believe, confined to one square stone vessel, +which appears to answer its purpose remarkably well. The women appear to +have no shame; they expose their breasts openly, which from their dirty +habits by no means correspond with the exalted character of the sex. On +hills to the N.E. of Khosha's first residence, forests are very visible, +descending far down the sides. + +On an open spot a little distance from Premsong's, there is a fine view +of the course of the Lohit, and of the more remote (now) snowy ranges. +The hills beyond this exactly answer to Wilcox's description, being very +high, and all descending as it were unbroken to the Lohit. + +Went out for about two hours over a tolerably level portion of the hill, +covered with Artemesia; found abundance of interesting plants, Crawfurdia +campanulacea, a Clematis, Acer, Prunus, Camellia axillaris, Cyathea, +Myrica, Rhus, Sedgwickia, Polygala, Galium: and a beautiful very fragrant +climbing Composita. + +Great part of the side of the hill is covered with a small hard bamboo, +which forms excellent walking sticks. An Urticea foliis peltatis, was +among the novelties. The Paeen Panee forms the nearest ravine. The +Polygonum, paniculis densissimis, is a certain indication of some +elevation. I observed Calamus, and Torenia asiatica. There is likewise +a large Mimoseous plant, which we found in fruit. + +_Nov_. _15th_.--Spent the greater part of the day attempting to reach the +summit of Laim-planj-thaya, but my guide did not know the way. We +ascended for upwards of four hours, slowly of course, but were still a +long way from its summit. The face of the mountain is entirely occupied +by woods, with but little underwood. Found abundance of plants, chiefly +ferns, only saw 4 Orchideae, of which 2 were in flower. The novelties +were a Polygonatum, Camellia, and Quercus lamellata. + +I observed no less than 5 Araliaceae, of which I succeeded in getting 4: +an Acer, probably that from Brahma Koond: and several _incertae_. Near +Premsong's the varnish tree was shewn to me, it is obviously a species of +Rhus. The Assamese name of the varnish plant is _Ahametta Gas_. I +took specimens of it in fruit. + +They obtain the juice by ringing, and the only two specimens I observed +were evidently well drained: no preparation is required for the varnish; +and it is applied one day, the next day is hard; it has a fine polish, +and is of an intense black. It is the same probably with two small trees +I had previously seen in Capt. Charlton's garden at Suddyah. Kydia +continues; a fine Palm, caudex 8-10-pedali; it probably belongs to the +genus Wallichia? Camellia is only found towards the top; the Polygonatum +also does not descend far. I saw also species of an undescribed +Bucklandia, likewise one specimen which had been damaged: the capituli +pluriflori. Towards the middle a small bamboo becomes plentiful; the +lower joints, from which no branches proceed, are armed with a +verticillus of spines. I did not observe Pandanus, but it is used for +constructing large mats: Megala continues, but not up the hill. + +_Nov_. _16th_.--Attempted to ascend Laim-planj-thaya by the Paeen rivulet +which proceeds from the centre, but after proceeding about half an hour +we found our progress effectually stopped by a water-fall, the sides of +the stream being so precipitous as to render all idea of clambering over, +or proceeding round ridiculous. Gathered two or three rare ferns, and a +pretty Lobelia. On our return through the open grassy parts near +Premsong's, we found a fine Choripetalum and Crawfurdia campanulacea, +beautifully in flower; the flower is rose-coloured. Anthistiria +arundinacea, the same Sambucus found at Suddya, Solanum 10 dentatum, a +Kydia and Torenia continue. + +_Nov_. _17th_.--Left and returned to Khosha's, as we were all out of +rice, and it was impossible to get anything in Premsong's absence. The +march on return occupied us about two hours, but the path was so +excessively slippery, owing to the grass not being cut away on either +side and to the dry weather and heat, that our progress was very slow. +Noticed Lactuca exalata and a Rottlera on the road; more snow has fallen +on the hills E.N.E. The descent on returning, owing to the slippery +state of the roads, was more fatiguing than the ascent. Hedychium +angustifolium I also observed on the road. + +I have as yet observed the following grains used by the Mishmees. 1st, +Oriza, rice; variety of this called _Ahoo Da_; 2nd, a species of +Eleusine, _Bobosa_; 3rd, Zea Mays, _Gorm_ dan; 4th, Panicum Panicula +nutanti, densa clavata. 5th, _Konee_, Chenapodium sp. panicula simili. + +The Mishmee names are as follow: _Dan-khai_ rice; _khai hoo_, +_bobosa_, _Mdo_.-_zea_, _or Maize_, _Ma-bon-konee-yo_ +Chenopodium; _Thenna_, a kind of Polygonum; _Hubra-Aloo_, +_Ghee-kuchoo-shoom_, Sweet potato; _Gaihwan_, Plantain; _Puhee_ +_Dhoonhwa_, Tobacco. They likewise cultivate Sesamum. + +_Nov_. _18th_.--Found more of the Rafflesiacea on low hills along the +Paeen; it was attached to the roots of the same species of Cissus, on +which it was found before. {40} I also gathered a Euonymus and a fine +Engelhardtia. The hairs of the fruits of Engelhardtia create a +disagreeable itching. All the Mishmees decline shewing me the road a +foot in advance of this place. I tried every way I could think of, to +overcome their objections, but to no purpose. They have so little regard +for truth, that one cannot rely much on what they say: I begin to think +that it is all owing to the Tapan Gam, who I suspected was insincere in +his professions. + +_Nov_. _19th_.--Yesterday evening Premsong arrived, he is a man about 35, +the best looking of all the Gams: but has rather a cunning Jewish face. +The brandy I gave him made him at first wonderfully obliging, for he +seemed disposed to enter into my views. This morning however he came +with Khosha and Tapan, by whom it was at once obvious that he has been +overruled; not only will he not take me to the Lama _Dais_ (plains,) but +he won't even shew me the road to Truesong's, a Digaroo, whose village is +only distant about five days' journey. Premsong I know wishes to go, +induced by the promise of 200 Rs. but he is afraid of incurring the +displeasure of Khosha, etc. I shall therefore return towards Deeling, +and devote a few days to botanising on Thuma-thaya. + +_Nov_. _20th_.--Returned to Ghaloom's: gathered the Martynia, finely in +flower, and observed the Rafflesiacea along the banks of the Lohit. + +_Nov_. _21st_.--Halted at Ghaloom's, the Rafflesiacea is found all about, +anth. bilocular, apice poro-gemino dehiscent, pollen simplex, materie +viscosa cohaerenti, ovula antitropa, tegumento unico. Made every +arrangement with Premsong. According to this Gam we are to go up the +Diree, and then cross over high mountains, leaving the Lohit entirely. He +says the Lamas wear trowsers, socks and shoes, and that they dress their +hair _a la mode Chinoise_; their houses are built on posts, and +raised from the ground: they erect forts like the Chinese, and have +plenty of fire-locks. They have also abundance of cattle, consisting of +about seven kinds, but no _Mithuns_; and three sorts of Horses, which +alone they use as beasts of burden. Their staple food is Ahoodan. The +_Mithun_ of the Mishmees appears to me intermediate to a certain degree +between the Bison and the wild Bull; their head is very fine, and as well +as the horns that of a Bull, but their neck and body have, so to say, the +same awkward conformation as those of the buffalo. I have not seen a +large living one; the largest head I saw was three feet from tip to tip +of the horns, the diameter of the forehead being probably about one-third +of the above. + +_Nov_. _22nd_.--Returned to Loong Mockh. I cannot reconcile Wilcox's +description of Ghaloom's old site with the reality, because the scenery +is decidedly fine, embracing the Tidding, and the (in comparison with the +near surrounding hills) gigantic Laim-planj-thaya, which from this +presents the appearance of a vast cone with a peaked summit. Premsong's +village is obviously at a considerable elevation. Found another +Acrostichum, a Bolbophyllum, a rare Aristolochia foliis palmatis, 7 +lobis, subtus glaucis; sapor peracerbus, floribus _siphonicis_. The +Huttaya I have not seen: it occurs at a greater distance in the mountains +than I have been. In addition to the plants I have gathered, Asplenium +nidus it very common. Tradescantia and Camelina both occur; Ricinus also +occurs, the Mishmees do not however put it to any use; Melica latifolia +is common on some of the hills. Anthistiria arundinacea occurs in +abundance. Likewise a small Areca and Chloranthus. + +It is at Ghaloom's old site that these hills commence putting on an +interesting appearance, those previously seen, excepting however Thuma- +thaya, being entirely covered with tree jungle; but beyond this site, the +lower spaces unoccupied by jungle become much more numerous. The Mishmee +word for bitter, is _Khar_. Query--why should not the name of the plant +Coptis teeta, be changed to Coptis amara, although the species of the +genus Coptis are probably all bitter? Sauraussa and Bombax both occur at +Ghaloom's, as well as Pentaptera; Sesamum is used for oil. + +I should have mentioned the top of the hill, surmounted in going +immediately from Loong Panee towards Ghaloom's, is occupied almost +entirely by a species of Fraxinus. + +On my arrival at Ghaloom's on the 20th, I found that the coolies had +played me the same trick as they had done previously, though not to such +an extent. Instead of each man having 20 days' provisions, scarcely one +had more than 5 or 6: as they had 20 days' given them in addition to that +they would require on the road, it is obvious they must have thrown much +away. Were all the Gams disposed to take one to Lama, it could not be +done with Assamese coolies and, above all, Seerings or Ahooms are the +very worst; and although often good sized men, they are very deficient in +strength. Nagas and Mishmees are the best, then Kamptees. + +I gave before leaving a packet of salt to Premsong, according I suppose +to their own custom of proceeding. Yesterday he went to Roomling, +Krisong's eldest son, and gained his consent. I mention this to shew how +active he is. He is a friend of the Dupha's, {42} and to my surprise, +told me he saw Capt. Hannay at Hookhoom, who gave him a jacket, and tried +to induce him to shew him the road to Suddiya. He is certainly the best +of all the Gams, and appears to be very liberal. + +_Nov_. _23rd_.--Arrived at Deeling after a tedious march of 8 hours: we +did not traverse the two cliffs near the Lohit, but pursued a longer, but +more commodious cattle path: our Mishmees, however, preferred the shorter +one. Gathered Sabia, Martynioidea, Alsophila, Menispermum at Paeen in +fine flower. At Ghaloom's old site a large Euphorbia fol obovatis, ramis +4 angulato-alatis occurs, and Cymbydium giganteum in fine flower. _En_ +_route_ hither I noticed the following; Bauhinia, Hoya, Urtica gigas, +Mucuna, Curculigo, Panax, foliis supra-decompositis, Dalbergia, Laurus, +Abroma, Lactuca exaltata, Uncaria, Siegesbeckia, Megala, _Podo-Molee_, +and a species subscandent of bamboo, internodiis vix cylindricis, +gracilibus; this is of great use where it occurs, in assisting one's +ascent and descent. + +_Nov_. _24th_.--Left about 11 for Thuma-thaya: we first descended the +Dissoo ravine, then up a very steep hill, the top of which was +cultivated, then descended and crossed another stream, the remainder of +our march consisting almost entirely of an uninterrupted steep ascent: +during our progress we gained partial views of the Plains and the Naga +Hills, but on crossing a high ridge on which I observed Betula Populus? +Rhododendrum arboreum, the view to the East and West was very fine. That +to the W. embracing the greater part of the plains about Suddiya and the +Abor Hills, stretching along to S.W. the more distant Naga Hills. The +Lohit could be traced for an immense way, the Dihong, Dibong, Digaroo, +Dihing were all partially visible. To the N.E. Thegri-thaya was finely +seen, then some rugged peaks among which Laim-planj was conspicuous. It +embraced the course of the Lohit, at least its right bank, ridge +surmounting ridge: the loftier ones tipped with snow; and lastly it was +closed by a huge wall, all covered with snow, especially its peaks, +stretching away to the N. From this we descended to Yen, where, as +usual, I took up my quarters in a granary. During the latter portion of +the journey, I gathered a Passiflora? Lobelia two species, a Scitaminea, +Spiraea, and a curious aromatic plant, pedunculis bracteae adnatis, +bracteis, coloratis, petal videis. + +Codonopsis, etc. Dicksonia, stipitibus atris 3 canaliculatis, frondibus +amplis, 10 pedalibus; in fine fructification; this is the same with the +Manmoo plant. I observed likewise an arborescent Sambucus, a Bonnaya, a +huge Begonia: Coix was seen cultivated. + +_Nov_. _25th_.--Spent the day in botanising. Gathered Adamia, some fine +ferns, a bamboo, spiculis dense congestis, bracteis scariosis +interspersis, and Schizosfachyum, Nees ab E. etc. + +Another and much finer species of the Fumariaceous genus, I found on Laim- +planj, Deutzia, a rare Quercus, a fine species of Antonia, (Br.) in +fruit, a Bartramia, Trematodon, Neckera, etc., noticed a fruit something +similar to that of Combretum, allis 2 maximis, 2 minimis: cotyledonibus +haemisphaericis. + +Saurauja, Prunus: 3 species of Aralia, Castanea, Quercus, etc. A species +of Panicum is here cultivated; the Assamese know it by the name Cheena, 3 +species of Polygonatum, including that from Laim-planj, one foliis +carnosis oppositis. 2 species of Begonia, making altogether six. The +Amaranthacea of Deeling is here found extensively, it often assumes the +form of a climber of considerable size. Musa farinosa grows to a great +size, 20 to 25 feet. Bambusa in flower has stems about two inches in +diameter. Sterculia flowers were observed on the ground. In the +afternoon it rained slightly. This is the coldest place I have visited +on these hills: in the evening and earlier parts of the night there is a +very cold draught down Thuma-thaya. + +The Anthistiria found on the more elevated portions of these hills, is +probably different from that of the plains. Urticea are here found in +abundance. + +_Nov_. _26th_.--This morning the atmosphere being beautifully +transparent, very high land plentifully sprinkled with snow was visible +to the N.W. by W., and to the N.W. a slight peep of the Himalayas was +gained. Started at 9, and commenced the ascent; we arrived at our +halting place at 11.5. The greater part of the march was a steep ascent +through dry woods, the ground being very slippery owing to the leaves. +Bucklandia occurs in abundance and of a large size, and attains a much +greater height than Sedgwickia: found many interesting plants and a small +Conifera, probably an Araucaria or a Taxus. + +I continued the ascent until about 12, but the scene had totally changed; +the whole face of the mountain on the S. side being entirely destitute of +trees, and in many places quite naked. The ascent was not very +difficult, and occupied a little more than an hour. This acclivity is +chiefly occupied by Graminea, all past flowering, all adhering very +firmly to the rock, which is quartzose and greyish blue outside, +excessively angular: Gentianeae 2: a beautiful Campanula, Hypericum, +Viburnum, Spiraea, Bryum Neckera, Pteris, Scabiosa, some Compositae, one +or two Vaccinioidea, and a curious shrubby Rubiacea evidently a Serissa, +were observed. The top, which represents a ridge, is partially wooded, +the trees being the continuation or rather termination of the jungle that +covers the whole northern face of the mountain. Here I saw Bucklandia, a +Pomacea, Crawfurdia, Deutzia, Cynaroidea, Viburna 2, some ferns. +Brachymeum, Neckera, Lichens several: a Caryophyllea and a Berberis. + +All these were somewhat stunted. The various views were beautiful, +embracing a complete panorama, but unfortunately obscured towards Lama by +trees. The Lohit was seen extensively from the Koond to Ghaloom's, and +to the plains to an immense distance. The whole range of Abor Hills and +a great portion of the Naga, some of which appeared very high, were +likewise seen: to the S.E. high ridges not far distant and covered with +snow, limited the view; slight snow was visible on the peak seen from +Suddiya. The descent was very tedious owing to the excessive +slipperiness of the grass: it was dangerous, because a slip would have +frequently dashed you to pieces, and in all cases would have hurt one +severely. + +_Nov_. _27th_.--Descended to Yen: near our halting place we gathered a +fine Pomacea arborea in fruit: a Symplocos, and observed Wallichioideae +and Calamus. The plants of the greatest interest gathered were an Acer, +an Epilobium, a Hoya grandiflora, Eurya, Hypericum, a fine Arundo, +Bucklandia: Cotoneaster microphylla, a Sabia, Coriaria, Abelia? a rare +Dipodous Orchidea of the same genus as a dwarf plant of the Cossiya +Hills. Rhododendron, scandesent Eleodendron. + +The ascent for the greater part is a steep wooded ridge; the first change +indicated or induced by elevation is the diminution of the size in the +trees, and the frequent occurrence of a Betulus? out of flower. +Proceeding onward one comes to a ridge, the S.E. declivity of which is +nearly naked, the opposite being wooded with shrubs, Viburnum, Conaria, +Mespilus, Pomacea, Rhododendron, Rubiacea Serissa, Cupulifera and some +Compositae occur. Then Arbutus Vaccinium; Nardus: Filix cano-tomentosa, +Lycopodium; Dicranum atratum; one or two Hypna, a Bryum, and Neckera +fusca. Descending slightly from thence the ridge is observed to be +wooded on both sides; it is at the termination of this that we halted. +The ascent is continued up a rock, and the whole of the mountain is, +excepting the ravines, covered with Graminea, Cyperacea, Filix +cano-tomentosa, etc. but the Ericoidea are not so fine. The grasses of +the summit are two Andropogons: an Arundo Festucoidea, Panicum, Isachne, +Nardus ceasing below, it is towards this that Crepis? and Campanula are +common. + +The Ceratostemmata are found towards the summit, none descend any +distance, except one of Roxburgh's; they are all generally epiphytes. +Orchidea become more common towards the halting place; beyond this I +observed only two past flowering, one Habenaria, and a Malaxidea; the +others are two Caelogyne, a Dipodious Orchidea, labelli ungue sigmoideo +very common, a Bolbophyllum, and a few ditto epiphytes out of flower, one +terrestrial Bletioidea is common in some places. At our halting place, I +observed an arborescent Araliacea, a Cissus, an Acanthacea and a +Laurinea. A little below, Pandanus occurs here and there, and attains a +large size, the largest in fact I have ever seen. Castanea occurs about +half way up, it is that species with rigid compound spines to the cupula. +I gathered also a fine Geastrum, but the specimens are lost. Bucklandia +occurs extensively; it is a distinct species owing to its many flowered +capitula; Sedgwickia comes into play towards Yen, where Bucklandia +appears to become scarce: a large Vitex floribus roseo-purpureis is the +most conspicuous tree of all, it ceases towards the summit; Cyathea I +observed only above half way. Camellia axillaris occurs below, but I +missed the Laim-planj plant. I may here observe that almost all plants +with red flowers, at least in this quarter, are acid: the Assamese always +appear to expect this, the proofs are Loranthus, Ceratostemma, and +Begonia, in which red is generally a predominant colour. + +Antrophyllum I noticed about Yen; towards Yen, I diverged from the path +to visit the place whence the stones are procured, which the Mishmees use +as flints for striking lights: this stone is found on the S. Western face +of the mountain: the stones or noduli are frequently sub-crystalline, and +are imbedded in a sort of micaceous frangible rock: they are very common, +of very different sizes, with glassy fracture; the best are hard; the bad +easily frangible, their weight is great. The inclination of this bed is +considerable; overlying it at an inclination of 45 degrees, is the grey +quartzose rock which forms the chief part, and perhaps nearly the whole, +of the mountain. The Mishmee name for the noduli is _Mpladung_. + +In the jungle at Yen occurs a huge Palm evidently Caryota, foliis maximis +supra decompositis; the diameter of the trunk is 1.5 to 2 feet. It is +said to die after flowering: the natives use the central lax structures +as food. The Yen Gam promises to send me specimens to-morrow. The Palms +I have hitherto seen are Wallichia, one or two Calami: Wallichioidia +trunco 5-10 pedali, and a Phaenicoidea, but this I only saw at the foot +of the mountains near Laee Panee, and the small Areca common about +Negrogam. The name of the large Palm in Assamese is _Bura Sawar_. All +the plants common to these and the Cossiya mountains, with one or two +exceptions, flower much earlier here, those being all past flowering +which I gathered in flower on the Cossiya hills in November last. This +is owing to the greater cold, and the consequent necessity for the plants +flowering at an earlier and warmer period. + +A species of ruminant, or, according to the native account, a species of +Pachydermata called the _Gan Pohoo_, occurs on Thuma-thaya. At the +summit of the mountain the ground was in one place rooted up, the +Mishmees said, by this animal, which they describe as a large Hog, but +which I should rather take to be a kind of Deer. + +_Nov_. _28th_.--Returned to Deeling. At the commencement of the +principal descent we gathered Betula and another Cupulifera, both +moderately sized trees. Anthestina arundinacea, is about this place very +common, and an Andropogon, Culmis ramosis which I had previously brought +from the Abor hills. About half way down by a present of _kanee_ +(opium), I succeeded in getting the arborescent vitex, which is the most +striking tree of all when in flower. Lost sight altogether of +Bucklandia, nor did I observe Sedgwickia. Gathered at the foot of Thuma- +thaya a Caelogyne in flower, allied to C. Gardneriana; Alsophila is +common towards the base. + +In the evening the Yen Gam came up according to his promise with the +gigantic Palm, with male inflorescence, it is a Caryota; he likewise +brought Sarcocordalis, Rafflesiacea, and a curious pubescent Piper. He +also added the female flowers of another Palm, which, according to him, +is another species of _Sawar_, or Caryota: the inflorescence is of an +orange yellow. A tree with the habit of Pterospermum occurs on Thuma- +thaya, low down Habenaria uniflora on rocks in the Dirsoo Panee, or +river; Kydia occurs about Yen, but not higher. + +_Nov_. _29th_.--Reached Laee Panee after a march of five hours; and +without Assamese coolies, it might be done in three. I noticed below +Deeling, but still at a considerable elevation, Crawfurdia campanu lacea, +Adamea, Engelhardtia, Vitex speciosa, and Magnolia in the order in which +they are thus given, Quercus, cupulis echinatis occurs comparatively low +down, Castanea ferox still lower, Dracaena comes into view towards the +base. At the village first reached in the ascent there is a Meliaceous +Azedarach looking tree. + +At our old halting place, and which is near Deeling, another +_Ahum-metta Ghas_ was shewn me. This attains, I am told, a large +size: it is not very unlike in habit a Melanorrhaea, and its young leaves +are tinged with red, the mature ones are coriaceous. I have not seen it +in flower; the juice, at least from small branches, is not very abundant, +and at first is of a whitish colour; it is, _on dit_, after drying that +it assumes the black tint; at any rate it is excessively acrid, for one +of my servants who cut it incautiously, had his face spoilt for a time: +the swelling even after four days had elapsed was considerable. With +this as well as the Rhus they dye the strings of the simple fibres of +_Sawar_, which they all wear below the knee: if not properly dried these +strings cause some inflammation: the strings are ornamental, light, and +when worn in small numbers graceful, but when dozens are employed, and +all the upper ones loose, they deform the figure much; some of the women, +perhaps anxious to restrain the protuberance of their calves, tie two or +three lightly across the calf. + +At Nohun, near Deeling, Cocoloba aculeata, _baccis_ cyaneis occurs here +the same as at Mumbree in the Cossiya hills, and at Suddiya. + +_Nov_. _30th_.--Halted. Put all the grain into the Tapan Gam's hands, +amounting to 60 maunds. In the evening received as a present a long +sword from Premsong. Found a fine Impatiens and a shrub coming into +flower, Calyce aestiv. valvato? Stamen 4, connectivo ultra antheras +longe producto, ovarium adnatum, foliis oppositis, exstipulatis. Meyenia +coccinea, finely in flower. An arborescent Urticea (Baehmeria?) foliis +subtus candidis is common. + +_Dec_. _1st_.--Reached the Tapan Gam's after a sharp march of four hours. +We are not yet quite at the foot of the hills. Gathered _en route_ 4 +new Acanthaceae, not previously met with on this trip, among which is a +beautiful Eranthemum. At Laee Panee one of my people brought me a fine +Aristolochia, very nearly allied to that from Ghaloom's, but at once +distinct by its ferruginous pubescence, Antrophyum, and a Polypodium not +before met with were among the acquisitions. The Tapan Gam has behaved +very handsomely for a Mishmee, having killed a hog, and given five +kuchoos of beautiful rice, and feasted my people. Found two snakes, +which inhabit the inside of bamboos. Color superne brunneo-cinereus, +margines squamarum nigri, gula nigra, fascicula subtus antea alba, +postice lutescens. + +Noticed Jenkinsia near Laee Panee, and some gigantic specimens of +Pentaptera, the Hool-look of the Assamese, the timber of which is used +for large canoes; and Lagerstraemia grandiflora occurs on the banks of +the Kussin Panee. + + + +CHAPTER III. + + +_Revisits the Tea Localities in the Singphoo and Muttack_ +_Districts_, _Upper Assam_. + +_Dec_. _2nd_.--Returned to Jingsha via Kussin Panee, or river, and Karam +Panee, the march being a tolerably easy one. Found along the steep banks +of the former a fine Meniscium, frondibus 6-8 pedalibus, and an +arborescent Polypodium, caudice 12-15 pedali, partibus novellis +densissime ferrugineo-tomentosis; frondibus subtus glauco-albidis. The +caudex is altogether similar in structure to that of Alsophyla, equally +furnished with strong black bristly radicles towards its base. + +_Dec_. _3rd_.--Left for Husa Gam's about 9, and arrived at the village +which is on the Kampai of the Singfos, Tup-pai of the Mishmees about 4.5 +P.M. The first part of our march was to the E. up the Karam, we then +traversed for a long way heavy jungle in a S. direction, and then came on +the dry bed of the Kampai, up which we ascended to the village. Found a +Ruellioidea, _Cyananthus_, _mihi_. _Oom_ of the Assamese, with which the +Kamptees dye their black blue cloths. Noticed an arborescent Araliacea +inermis, foliis supra decomposita; panicule patentissima. The Husa Gam +treated us very handsomely forming a striking contrast with the Mishmees; +he declares positively that no tea exists in this direction; I shall +therefore proceed direct from Luttora to Beesa. Roxburghia occurred on +the route. The village is on the left bank of the river: the direction +from Jingsha's being about N.W. + +_Dec_. _4th_.--Reached Luttora after an easy march of three hours and a +half, for the most part along an excellent path. We passed the following +villages _en route_ Chibong, Wakon, Mtarm, and Mcyompsan: three of +which are of some size; none however so large as Nsas. This is the +largest Singfo village I have seen, and probably contains 400 people. +This village and all the others are situated on high ground, the ascent +from the Kampai being probably 70 feet. The country consists of level, +apparently good soil, with here and there broadish ravines in which +bamboos are abundant. Cultivation is common, and of considerable extent. +On a similar eminence is situate Luttora, and it has been well chosen, +for on both sides that I approached it, the ascent is steep and capable +of being easily defended; the south side is bounded by the Ponlong Panee, +which runs into the Tenga Panee. If any ascent it is an easy one, and +must be to the westward; to the north, there is a small stream, but +neither this, Ponlong or Tenga are any thing but mere rills, which may be +easily leaped over in the dry seasons. Our route from Nsas was to the W. +of south. No stockades appear to exist in this quarter. + +Luttora is not so large as Nsas; formerly the Luttora Gam was the chief +of all this soil, but he has been partly deserted by two bodies of men +who have respectively chosen Nsas and Htan-tsantan. + +The Gam visited me in the evening at our halting place on the Ponlong; he +is a large, coarse, heavy-looking man, nearly blind, and excessively +dirty. He proposed of himself to me, to become the Company's ryott in +accordance with the wish, he said, of the Dupha Gam; but when I told him +he ought to send or go to the Suddiya Sahib, or Political Agent, he said +he wanted to see the Dupha first: he was accompanied by a very loquacious +oldish man, who had just returned from Hook-hoom, to which place he had +gone with the Dupha. They left apparently not much pleased at my being +empty handed. + +_Dec_. _5th_.--Left at 6.5, reached the Muttack Panee about 8.5, having +come through much heavy bamboo jungle; we then ascended the dry bed of +the Muttack, and ascended after some time the Minaboom. This was most +tedious, as we continued along the ridge for two hours; we then commenced +our descent, but did not reach the Meera Panee much before 1 P.M. Down +this we came here, and then along some curious chasms in the sandstone, +and encamped about 3. The difference of soil between the Minaboom and +the Mishmee hills is most obvious; on the N.E. declivity there is much +soil; but on the opposite side little but rounded stones which supply the +place of soil, and in places we saw nothing but sandstone conglomerate? +or indurated soil with many boulders imbedded in it, and a blackish +greasy clay slate; while on the Mishmees, on the contrary, all is rock, +hard and harsh to the touch; or where loose stones do occur on the face +of the hills, they are all angular. The vegetation of sandstone is +likewise far more varied; and that of the Meera Panee district, abounds +in ferns, among which is Polypodium Wallichianum. The Tree-fern of +Kujing I observed in the Muttack, Sedgwickia in Minaboom, two +Magnoliaceae, one bracteis persistent, induratis, and a Dipterocarpus. +The chief vegetation of the ridge consists of grasses, among which bamboo +holds a conspicuous place. A Begonia was common along the Muttack. The +Meera Panee would well repay a halt of two or three days. + +At our halting place we met four Burmese, despatched by the Maum, {51} +who has arrived at Beesa on a visit to the Luttora Gam. + +_Dec_. _6th_.--Reached Beesa after a sharp march of six hours. Our +course lay at first down the Meera Panee; here I observed more of the +Polypodium Wallichianum, which is common throughout the Singfo hill +country, and appears to be used as grog, at least the juice of the +petioles. We then diverged to the westward through heavy jungle, and the +remainder of our march consisted of uninteresting dense jungle, water- +courses, and excessively low places. Observed Sabia in some of the +jungles; the only interesting plants gathered were an Impatiens and two +or three Acanthaceae. About 2.5 P.M. we came on the Noa Dihing, which +is now nearly dry, the water having flowed into the Kamroop. No boat, +not even a dak boat, can come near Beesa. It is obvious that this river +here never presented any depth, both banks being very low; the bed +consists of small hard boulders. + +_Dec_. _7th_, _8th_.--Halted at Beesa. + +_Dec_. _9th_.--Started for the Naga village, at some distance, and + +_Dec_. _10th_.--Left for Kujoo or Khoonlong, which we reached about 1, +after a march of five hours. At 10, we arrived at Dhoompsan or Thoompsa, +a large village with extensive cultivation. The remainder of our march +was through heavy jungle, many parts of which were very low, and crowded +with a fierce Calamus. The higher parts abound in a Dipterocarpus, and +two Castaneae. I found many fine ferns, all of which however we +collected last year. Chrysobaphus, not uncommon. Apostasia rare. + +_Dec_. _11th_.--Visited the tea in the old locality at Nigroo. No steps +have been taken towards clearing the jungles, except perhaps of tea. The +Gam tells me, that the order for clearing was given to Shroo, Dompshan, +and Kumongyon, Gams of three villages near the spot. Noticed Dicksonia +_en route_, so that we must have passed it last year. AEsculus also +occurs here. + +_Dec_. _12th_.--Arrived at Kugoodoo after an easy march of two hours and +a half. At 12, went to see the tea which lies to the S.S.W. of the +village, and about ten minutes' walk to the W. of the path leading to +Negrogam, and which for the most part runs along an old bund road. After +diverging from this road we passed through some low jungle, which is +always characterised by Calamus Zalaccoideus; and then after traversing +for a short time some rather higher ground, came on the tea. This patch +is never under water; there is no peculiarity of vegetation connected +with it. It runs about N. and S. for perhaps 150 yards by 40 to 50 in +breadth. The Gam had cleared the jungle of all, except the larger trees +and the low _herbaceous underwood_, so that a _coup d'oeil_ was at +once obtained, and gave sufficient evidence of the abundance of the +plants, many of which were of considerable size, and all bore evidence of +having been mutilated. They were for the most part loaded with flowers, +and are the finest I have seen in the Singfo country. Young buds were +very common, nor can I reconcile this with the statement made by the Gam, +that no young leaves will be obtainable for four months. From the +clearing, the plants are exposed to moderate sun; it is perhaps to this +that the great abundance of flowers is to be attributed. The soil, now +quite dry at the surface, is of a cinereous grey; about a foot below it +is brown, which passes, as you proceed, into deeper yellow; about four +feet deep, it passes into sand. No ravines exist, and mounds only do +about a few of the larger trees. The soil as usual is light, friable, +easily reduced to powder, and has a very slight tendency to stiffness. + +_Dec_. _13th_.--Left for the Muttack: our course lay through dense +jungle, principally of bamboo, and along the paths of wild elephants; +these beasts are here very common. We halted after a march of seven +hours on a small bank of the Deboro; the only plant of interest was my +Cyananthus in flower. + +_Dec_. _14th_.--Continued through similar jungle along the Deboro; bamboo +more frequent. About 2 P.M. we left the undulating hillocks, and the +jungle became more open. At 4, we reached Muttack, but had still to +traverse a considerable distance before we halted at Kolea Panee. We +crossed the Deboro _en route_; no particular plant was met with. I +shot two large serpents, _Pythons_; one 8, and the other 10 feet long. +The Kolea Panee is of some width, but is fordable. + +_Dec_. _15th_.--After marching for about seven hours, halted at a small +village. The country passed over was, like most of this part of Muttack, +open, consisting of a rather high plain covered with grasses, T. sperata, +Saccharum, and Erianthus, with here and there very swampy ravines; the +soil is almost entirely sandy, light at the surface; the yellow tint +increasing with the depth, which is considerable. Crossed the Deboro by +a rude wooden bridge. I found no particular plants _en route_. + +_Dec_. _16th_.--Reached Rangagurrah, after a march of about an hour: and +halted for the day. + +_Dec_. _18th_.--Started to visit Sedgwickia at the wood, where we found +it in February last. Reached the spot, which is at least ten miles from +Rangagurrah, in two hours and a half. The trees had evidently not +flowered last year; many of the buds were of some size, and such +contained flower buds, each capitula being in addition enveloped in three +bracteae densely beset with brown hair. The natives assured me, it will +flower about April, or at the sowing of _halee_. When we before found +it, the buds were all leaf buds, which at once accounts for the +non-appearance of flowers. Gathered Sabia in the Sedgwickia wood. The +Major {53} arrived before I got back. + +_Dec_. _20th_.--Revisited the tea locality of Tingrei, which we reached +after a five hours' march. The portion of it formerly cleared is now +quite clean: all the plants, and they are very abundant, have a shrubby +shady appearance; the branches being numerous, so that the first aspect +is favourable. But one soon detects an evident coarseness in the leaves, +the tint of which is likewise much too yellow; altogether their +appearance is totally unlike that of teas growing in their natural shade. +That part, and the more extensive one which we first visited in February +last, is now clearing; almost all the large trees have been felled, and +all the underwood removed. The branches, etc. are piled in heaps and set +fire to, much to the detriment of the plants: all the tea trees likewise +have been felled. My conviction is, that the tea will not flourish in +open sunshine; at any rate, subjection to this should be gradual. +Further, that cutting the main stem is detrimental, not only inducing +long shoots, but most probably weakening the flavour of the leaves. It +appears to me to be highly desirable, that an intelligent superintendent +should reside on the spot, and that he should at least be a good +practical gardener, with some knowledge of the science also. + +_Dec_. _24th_.--Reached Suddiya. The country passed through was, for the +first two days, of the same description as before; i.e. rather high +grassy plains with belts of jungle, and intervening low very swampy +ravines. The soil precisely the same as that of the tea localities. The +last march was, with the exception of Chykwar, through low damp dense +jungle. + +* * * * * + +_Extract from the Author's letter to Captain F_. _Jenkins_, +_Commissioner of Assam_, _regarding the Mishmees_. _December_, +_1836_. {54} + +"I had thus become acquainted with all the influential chiefs near our +frontier, and by all I was received in a friendly and hospitable manner. +In accordance with my original intentions, my attention was in the first +place directed towards ascertaining whether the tea exists in this +direction or not, and, as I have already informed you, I have every +reason to think that the plant is unknown on these hills. From what I +have seen of the tea on the plains, I am disposed to believe that the +comparative want of soil, due to the great inclination of all the +eminences, is an insuperable objection to its existence. + +"As I before observed to you, during my stay at Jingsha, my curiosity had +been excited by reports of an incursion of a considerable force of Lamas +into the Mishmee country. It hence became, having once established a +footing in the country, a matter of paramount importance to proceed +farther into the interior, and, if possible, to effect a junction with +these highly interesting people; but all my attempts to gain this point +proved completely futile; no bribes, no promises would induce any of the +chiefs to give me guides, even to the first Mishmee village belonging to +the Mezhoo tribe. I was hence compelled to content myself for the +present, with obtaining as much information as possible relative to the +above report, and I at length succeeded in gaining the following +certainly rather meagre account. + +"The quarrel, as usual, originated about a marriage settlement between +two chiefs of the Mezhoo and Taeen tribes: it soon ended in both parties +coming to blows. The Mezhoo chief, ROOLING, to enable him at once to +overpower his enemies, and to strike at once at the root of their power, +called in the assistance of the Lamas. From this country a force of +seventy men armed with matchlocks made an invasion, and, as was to be +expected, the Taeen Mishmees were beaten at every point and lost about +twenty men. The affair seems to have come to a close about September +last, when the Lamas returned to their own country. Where it occurred I +could gain no precise information, but it must have been several days' +journey in advance of the villages I visited. + +"It was owing to the unsettled state of the country, resulting from this +feud, that I could gain no guides from the Digaroos, without whose +assistance in this most difficult country, I need scarcely say, that all +attempts to advance would have been made in vain. These people very +plausibly said, if we give you guides, who is to protect us from the +vengeance of the Mezhoos when you are gone, and who is to insure us from +a second invasion of the Lamas? Another thing to be considered is, the +influence even then exercised over the Mishmees near our boundaries by +the Singphos connected with the Dupha Gam; but from the renewal of the +intercourse with our frontier station, there is every reason for +believing that this influence is ere this nearly destroyed. + +"The natives of this portion of the range are divided into two tribes, +Taeen or Digaroo and Mezhoo, these last tracing their descent from the +_Dibong_ Mishmees, who are always known by the term crop-haired. The +Mezhoo, however, like the Taeens, preserve their hair, wearing it +generally tied in a knot on the crown of their head. The appearance of +both tribes is the same, but the language of the Mezhoos is very +distinct. They are perhaps the more powerful of the two; but their most +influential chiefs reside at a considerable distance from the lower +ranges. The only Mezhoos I met with are those at _Deeling-Yen_, a +small village opposite _Deeling_, but at a much higher elevation, and +_Tapan_. I need scarcely add that it was owing to the opposition of this +tribe that Captain WILCOX failed in reaching _Lama_. The Digaroos are +ruled by three influential chiefs, who are brothers DRISONG, KHOSHA, and +GHALOOM: of these, DRISONG is the eldest and the most powerful, but he +resides far in the interior. PRIMSONG is from a distant stock, and as +the three brothers mentioned above are all passed the prime of life, +there is but little doubt that he will soon become by far the most +influential chief of his tribe. Both tribes appear to intermarry. The +Mishmees are a small, active, hardy race, with the Tartar cast of +features; they are excessively dirty, and have not the reputation of +being honest, although, so far as I know, they are belied in this +respect. Like other hill people, they are famous for the muscular +development of their legs:--in this last point the women have generally +the inferiority. They have no written language. Their clothing is +inferior; it is, however, made of cotton, and is of their own +manufacture;--that of the men consists of a mere jacket and an apology +for a _dhoti_,--that of the women is more copious, and at any rate quite +decent: they are very fond of ornaments, especially beads, the quantities +of which they wear is very often quite astonishing. They appear to me +certainly superior to the Abors, of whom, however, I have seen but few. +Both sexes drink liquor, but they did not seem to me to be so addicted to +it as is generally the case with hill tribes:--their usual drink is a +fermented liquor made from rice called _mont'h_: this, however, is far +inferior to that of the Singphos, which is really a pleasant drink. + +"_Religion_. Of their religion I could get no satisfactory +information--every thing is ascribed to supernatural agency. Their +invocations to their deity are frequent, and seem generally to be made +with the view of filling their own stomachs with animal food. They live +in a very promiscuous manner, one hundred being occasionally accommodated +in a single house. Their laws appear to be simple,--all grave crimes +being judged by an assembly of Gams, who are on such occasions summoned +from considerable distances. All crimes, including murder, are punished +by fines: but if the amount is not forthcoming, the offender is cut up by +the company assembled. But the crime of adultery, provided it be +committed against the consent of the husband, is punished by death; and +this severity may perhaps be necessary if we take into account the way in +which they live. + +"The men always go armed with knives, Lama swords, or Singpho _dhaos_ and +lances; and most of them carry cross-bows--the arrows for these are +short, made of bamboo, and on all serious occasions are invariably +poisoned with _bee_. When on fighting expeditions, they use shields, +made of leather, which are covered towards the centre with the quills of +the porcupine. Their lances are made use of only for thrusting: the +shafts are made either from the wood of the lawn (_Caryota urens_) or +that of another species of palm _juice_--they are tipped with an iron +spike, and are of great use in the ascent of hills. The lance heads are +of their own manufacture, and of very soft iron. They have latterly +become acquainted with fire-arms, and the chiefs have mostly each a +firelock of _Lama_ construction. + +"With _Lama_ they carry on an annual trade, which apparently takes place +on the borders of either country. In this case _mishmee-teeta_, is the +staple article of the Mishmees, and for it they obtain _dhaos_ or +straight long swords of excellent metal and often of great length; copper +pots of strong, but rough make, flints and steel, or rather steel alone, +which are really very neat and good; warm woollen caps, coarse loose +parti-colored woollen cloths, huge glass beads, generally white or blue, +various kinds of cattle, in which _Lama_ is represented as abounding, and +salts. I cannot say whether the Lamas furnish flints with the steel +implements for striking light; the stone generally used for this purpose +by the Mishmees is the nodular production from _Thumathaya_,--and this, +although rather frangible, answers its purpose very well; with the +Singphos they barter elephants' teeth, (these animals being found in the +lower ranges,) for slaves, dhaws, and buffaloes. + +"With the Khamtees they appear to have little trade, although there is a +route to the proper country of this people along the _Ghaloom panee_, +or _Ghaloom Thee_ of WILCOX'S chart; this route is from the great +height of the hills to be crossed, only available during the hot months. + +"With the inhabitants of the plains they carry on an annual trade, which +is now renewed after an interruption of two years, exchanging cloths, +Lama swords, spears, _mishmee-teeta_, _bee_, which is in very great +request, and _gertheana_, much esteemed by the natives for its peculiar +and rather pleasant smell, for money, (to which they begin to attach +great value), cloths, salt and beads: when a sufficient sum of money is +procured, they lay it out in buffaloes and the country cattle." + +* * * * * + +The following is a list of collections of Plants from the Mishmee Hills +to the extreme East, Upper Assam. + + _Dicotyledones_. _Dicotyledones_. + + (Ligulatae, 9) Ericineae, 7 +Composi- (Cynaraceae, 4) 89 Verbenaceae, 8 +tae, (Corymbiferae,76) Boragineae, 2 + + Labiatae, 50 +Valerianeae, 1 Gesneriaceae, 22 +Dipsaceae, 1 Acanthaceae, 38 +Caprifoliaceae, 6 Scrophularineae, 19 +Rubiaceae, 42 Solaneae, 6 + +Apocyneae, ) 5 Convolvulaceae, 8 +Asclepiadeae, ) Primulaceae, 1 + +Gentianeae, 7 Myrsineae, 19 +Oleinae, 2 Escalloniaceae? 3 +Jasmineae, 6 Malvaceae, 6 +Campanulaceae, 7 Cruciferae, 3 +Lobeliaceae, 7 Polygaleae, 1 +Vacciniaceae, 2 Violaceae, 5 +Passifloreae, 1 Begoniaceae, 6 +Modeccoideae, 1 Umbelliferae, 4 +Samydeae, 1 Araliaceae, 12 +Ampelideae, Leea, 6 Rhamneae, 1 +Balsamineae, 15 Celastrineae, 9 +Sileneae, 6 Amaranthaceae, 8 +Aurantiaceae, 5 Polygoneae, 12 +Meliaceae, 5 Chenopodeae, 1 +Sapindaceae, 3 Plantagineae, 1 +Acerineae, 4 Urticeae, 14 +Malpighiaceae, 3 Ulmaceae, 1 +Hypericineae, 2 Euphorbiaceae, 21 +Ternstroemiaceae, 11 Scepaceae, 1 +Symplocineae, 3 Stilagineae, 5 +Ebenaceae, 1 Myriceae, 1 + + (Rhus, 5) Juglandeae, 1 +Terebin- (Buchanania, 1) Cupuliferae, 4 +thaceae, (Phlebochiton, 1) 9 Betulaceae, 5 + (Sabia, 2) Salicineae, 1 + +Zanthoxyleae, 5 Laurineae, 8 +Conareae, 1 Hamamelideae, 2 +Trygophylleae, 1 Thymeleae, 1 +Rutaceae, 2 Santalaceae, 1 +Ranunculaceae, 4 Loranthaceae, 2 +Fumariaceae, 2 Proteaceae, 1 +Myristiceae, 2 Elaeagneae, 1 +Anonaceae, 4 Aristolochiae, 3 +Magnoliaceae, 1 Combretaceae, 2 +Berberideae, 1 Chlorantheae, 1 +Lardizabaleae, 1 Piperaceae, 14 +Menispermeae, 5 Coniferae, 1 +Rosaceae, 16 Incertae, 17 +Leguminosae, 31 Unarranged, 8 +Philadelpheae, 2 Ditto, 14 +Saxifrageae, 3 --- +Melastomaceae, 9 725 +Onagrariae, 3 --- +Myrtaceae, 2 +Cucurbitaceae, 6 +_Monocotyledones_ _Acotyledones_ + +Smilacineae, 14 +Dioscoreae, 1 Pteris, 21 +Peliosantheae, 5 Blechnum, 1 +Tupistraceae, 2 Dicksonia, 1 +Commelineae, 10 Davallia, 12 +Tacceae, 1 Lindsaea, 2 +Aroideae, 6 Asplenium 27 +Scitamineae, 6 Allantodioides, 6 +Orchideae, 43 Aspidium, 22 +Apostaceae, 1 Nephrodium, 16 +Palmae, 3 Cyatheae, 7 +Cyperaceae, 22 Trichomanes, 4 +Gramineae, 73 Hymenophyllum, 2 + --- Gleichenia, 1 + 187 Angiopteris, 1 + --- Botrychium, 1 + _Acotyledones_ Lygodium, 2 + Lycopodium, 6 +Acrostichum, 12 Tinesipteris 1 +Ceterach, 2 Equisetum, 1 +Grammitis, 3 --- +Polypodium, 56 224 +Pleopeltis, 8 Monocotyledones,187 +Niphobolus, 1 Dicotyledones, 725 +Cheilanthes, 3 Mosses + unarranged, + about 50 +Adiantum, 3 ---- +Vittaria, 1 Total, 1186 +Lomaria, 1 ---- + +N.B.--The plants enumerated above, were transmitted to the India House in +1838, together with former collections made _in the Tenasserim_ +Provinces. + + + +CHAPTER IV. + + +_Journey from Upper Assam towards Hookhoom_, _Ava_, _and_ +_Rangoon_, _Lat_. _27 degrees 25' to 16 degrees 45' N_., +_Long_. _96 degrees to 96 degrees 20' E_. + +We left Suddiya on the 7th of February 1837, and reached Kedding on the +10th; stayed there one day, and reached Kamroop Putar, where I found +Major White and Lieut. Bigge on the 12th. The jungle to this place was +similar to the usual jungle of the Singpho country, very generally low, +and intersected by ravines. We crossed _en route_ the Karam river, the +Noa Dihing, or Dihing branch of the Booree Dihing, on which the Beesa's +old village was situated; and lastly the Kamroop. Kamroop Putar is close +to the Naga hills; it is a cultivated rice tract, on the river Kamroop. +This river is fordable, with frequent rapids. The only curious things +about it are the petroleum wells, which are confined to three situations. +The wells are most numerous towards the summits of the range; and the +place where they occur is free from shrubs. The petroleum is of all +colours, from green to bluish white; this last is the strongest, +partaking of the character of Naphtha, it looks like bluish or greyish +clay and water. The vegetation of the open places in which the wells are +found, consists of grass, Stellaria, Hypericum, Polygonum, Cyperaceae, +Mazus rugosus, Plantago media, etc., all of which are found on the +plains. One of the wells is found on the Putar, or cultivated ground; +the petroleum in this is grey. The Kamroop river above this Putar, +strikes off to the eastward, and the Kamteechick, a tributary, falls into +it from the south; this last is a good deal the smaller; the banks of the +Kamroop are in many places precipitous. About two miles from the Putar, +a fine seam of excellent coal has been exposed by a slip: {60} the beds +are at an inclination of 45 degrees, and their direction is, I think, +nearly the same with that of the left bank of the river in which they +occur; immediately over the seam there is a small ravine, where three of +the veins are still farther exposed. Caricea, a new Dicranum, Alsophila +ferruginea, Polytrichum aloides, Bartramea subulosa, and Jungermanniae +are common near this spot. + +Left Kamroop on the 19th, and proceeded in a S.W. direction for twelve +miles, when we halted on the Darap Kha, at the foot of the Naga hills, +opposite nearly to Beesala. Nothing of interest occurred. + +_Feb_. _21st_.--Commenced the ascent, and after marching about ten miles, +halted in a valley near a stream. Temperature 66 degrees. Water boiled +at 210.5 degrees, giving an altitude of about 77 degrees, or 383 feet +above Suddiya. The road was very winding, the path good, except towards +the base of the hills: the soil sandy, in places indurated, and resting +on sandstone; but there is not yet sufficient elevation to ensure much +change in vegetation. Found Kaulfussia {61a} below in abundance, +observed Castanea and a Quercus; three species of Begonia, and three or +four species of Acanthacea. In other respects the jungle resembles that +of the Singpho territory. Dicksonia is abundant. Dipterocarpus of large +size occurs. Caught two innocuous snakes at the halting place. {61b} + +_Feb_. _22nd_.--The distance of the march is about 12 miles, and we +halted after crossing the Darap Panee; some parts of the route were +difficult, at least for elephants. No particular features of vegetation +yet appears. The summit of the higher hills looks pretty. Tree jungle +considerable, open places with low grass, is the surrounding feature of +vegetation. The hill first surmounted from the halting place is covered +with a Camellia or _Bunfullup_, (i.e. bitter tea) of the Assamese. The +fruit has loculicidal dehiscence. In habit it is like that of the tea, +but the buds are covered with imbricate scales. At the summit of the +hill, it attained a height of 30 or 40 feet. Begoniacea, Urticaceae, +Acanthaceae, Filices, are the most common. + +_Feb_. _23rd_.--Halted to enable the elephants to come up; they arrived +about 10 A.M. Temperature of the air 75 degrees, water boiled at 210 +degrees, altitude 1029 feet. The Darap is a considerable stream, but is +fordable at the heads of the rapids. Fish abound, especially _Bookhar_, +a kind of Barbel, {61c} which reaches a good size. Clay slate appears to +be here the most common rock, and forms in many places the very +precipitous banks of the river. Alsophila ferruginea, Areca, Calami, +Fici., Pentaptera, Laurineae, Myristiceae continue. Kaulfussia assamica, +is common along the lower base of the hills. + +_Feb_. _23rd_.--Started at 7, and after a march of five hours, reached +the halting place on the Kamtee-chick, some distance above the place at +which we descended to its bed. Distance 12 miles, direction S.S.E.; +crossed one hill of considerable elevation, certainly 1000 feet above the +halting place, which we find by the temperature of boiling water to be +1413 feet above the sea. The tops of these hills continue comparatively +open, and have a very pretty appearance. The trees, however, have not +assumed a northern character; their trunks are covered with epiphytes. +The Kamtee-chick is a small stream fordable at the rapids, the extreme +banks are not more than 30 or 40 yards. No peculiarity of vegetation as +yet occurs; the fruit of a Quercus continues common, as well as that of +Castanea ferox. I met with that of a Magnolia; Tree ferns, Calami, Musa, +Areca, and the usual sub-tropical trees continue; Acanthaceae are most +common, Gordonea plentiful on the open places on the hills, Sauraufa two +species, Byttneria, etc. etc. Altogether, I am disappointed in the +vegetation, which, although rich, is not varied. Wallichia continues +common. A Begonia with pointed leaves, and a Smilacineous plant are the +most interesting, and a large Quercoid Polypodium, the lacineae of which +are deciduous; and these I found in abundance on the Mishmee hills, +although I did not succeed in getting an entire frond. + +_Feb_. _24th_.--Marched about ten miles all the way up the bed of the +Kamtee-chick, now a complete mountain stream, the general direction being +S.S.E. Traversed in places heavy jungle, but for the most part we +ascended the bed of the river. The only very interesting plant was +Podostemon, apparently Griffithianum, which covers the rocks on the bed +of the river. The usual plants continue, viz. Scitamineae, Phrynium +capitatum, Tradescantia, Paederia and Isophylla, Pothos 2 or 3 species, +Ixora 2, Leea, which occasionally becomes arborescent. Cissus 3 or 4, +Panax ditto, Pierardia sapida, Elaeocarpus, Smilax, Areca, Calami 2 or 3, +Asplenium nidus, Fici several, Pentaptera, Cupuliferae, the latter rare; +Bauheniae 2, Acanthaceae, one of which attains the size of a large shrub, +Guttiferae 2, Phlebochiton, Rottlera, Millingtonia simplicifolia, Inga, +Wallichia, Pentaptera, Malvacea, and Acanthacea convallariae flore. I +observed Pandanus to be common, (one Sterculia was yesterday observed). +Equisetae 2, the larger being the plant of the plains. Erythrina, +Lagerstraemia grandiflora. Chondospermum, Polypodium, Acrostichoides +ferrugineum, and the fruit of Cedrela Toona, Megala. Choranthus was not +seen. + +_Feb_. _25th_.--Proceeded about 100 yards up the Kamchick, then crossed +the Tukkaka, and commenced the ascent of a high hill, certainly 1000 feet +above the elevation of our last halting place on the Kamchick: the lower +portion is covered with tree jungle, the upper portion of the mountain is +open, covered with a tall Saccharum and an Andropogon, among which are +mixed several Compositae, and an Ajuga. Among the grass, occur trees +scattered here and there, chiefly of a Gordonia. From the summit we had +a pretty view of the Kamchick valley, closed in to the S.W. by a high and +distant wall, being part of the Patkaye range. All the hills have the +same features, but it is odd that their highest points are thickly +clothed with tree jungle. Observed Kydia, Alstonia, _Eurya_, Triumfetta, +Celtis, Engelhardtia, Rhus, Rottlera, Loranthus, Callicarpa and Dicksonia +all at a high elevation, but this latter is scarce. No pines visible. +_Dhak_, Fici, Musa farinacea, Bambusae continue. Compositae are common +on the clearings. A Mimosa occurs on the summit, and Andrachne, +3-foliata. Thence we descended for a short distance, and halted at the +foot of the Patkaye near the stream. + +Direction S.S.E. Distance four miles. + +Elevation 3026 feet. Temperature 66 degrees. Boiling point, 206.5 +degrees. + +All the trees have a stunted appearance. + +_Feb_. _26th_.--Halted. + +_Feb_. _27th_.--To-day ascended a hill to the W. of our camp, certainly +500 feet above it; its features are the same, Porana alata. Bignonia, a +Leguminous tree, a ditto Mimosa. Panax, Lobelia zeylanica, Artemisia, +Cordia. Panicum curvatum, Anthistina arundinacea. + +Panicum _plicatoides_, Smithea, Hypericum of the plains, and Potentilla, +Sida, and Plantago all plain plants, are found at the summit. To the +S.W. of our camp are the remains of a stockade, which was destroyed by +fire, it is said, last year. The only interesting plants gathered were a +Cyrtandracea, AEschynanthus confertus mihi, a Dendrobium, and a fine +Hedychium, beautifully scented, occurring as an epiphyte. Of Ficus +several species are common. On the large mountain to the N.E., either +birch or larches are visible, their elevation being probably 1000 feet +above that of our camp. + +The party halted until the 3rd March; I had one day's capital fishing in +the Kamtee-chick with a running line. + +_March 2nd_.--A Havildar arrived, bearing a letter from Dr. Bayfield, +{64} stating that he would be with the Major in two or three days. + +_March 3rd_.--Capt. Hannay and I started in advance; we crossed a low +hill, then a torrent, after which we commenced a very steep ascent. This +ascent, with one or two exceptions, continued the whole way to the top of +the Patkaye range, which must be 1500 feet above our halting place. The +features continued the same. The Patkaye are covered with dry tree +jungle on the northern side. The place, whence the descent begins, is +not well defined: at first winding through damp tree jungle. After a +march of four hours we descended to a small stream, the Ramyoom, which +forms the British boundary; this we followed for some distance through +the wettest, rankest jungle I ever saw: thence we ascended a low hill, +and the remainder of our march was for the most part a continued descent +through dry open tree jungle, until we again descended into the damp +zone. We reached water as night was setting in, and bivouacked in the +bed of the stream. + +The former vegetation continued until we reached the dry forest covering +the upper parts of the Patkaye, and here the forms indicating elevation +increased. Polygonatum, Ceratostemma, Bryum Sollyanum, and a +Ternstroemiacea occurred, Epiphytical orchideae are common, but were +almost all out of flower. Owing to the thickness of the jungle, and the +height of the trees, we could not ascertain what the trees were; but from +the absence of fruit, etc. on the ground, I am inclined to think that +they are not Cupuliferae. _Betee bans_, (of the natives) a kind of +bamboo, perhaps the same as the genus Schizostachyum, N. ab. E. is common +all over the summit, and descends to a considerable distance, especially +on the southern side. On this side the prevalence of interesting forms +was much more evident. Along the Kamyoom I gathered an Acer, an Arbutus, +a Daphne. Polypodium arboreum ferrugineum was likewise here very common. +Succulent Urticeae, Acanthaceae swarmed: a huge Calamus was likewise +conspicuous. On this side there is plenty of the bamboo called _Deo_ +_bans_, articulis spinarum verticillis armatis, habitu B. bacciferae. +Among the trees on the descent, Magnoliaceae occur; the petals of one I +picked up were light yellow, tinged with brown in the centre. A species +of Viola occurred low down. I believe it is V. serpens. On both sides, +but especially the south Ceratostemma variegatum occurs; this is common +still lower down the Kamyoom. The trees along this portion of the +boundary nullah, are covered with masses of pendulous Neckera and Hypna. +On the summit I observed two species of Panax, a fruitescent or +arbusculous Composita, Asplenum nidus, Laurineae, etc. + +The direction of the day's journey was about S.S.E. The distance 15 +miles. + +_March 4th_.--We reached almost immediately the real Kamyoom, down +which our route laid; we halted in its bed at 3, after a march most +fatiguing from crossing and recrossing the stream, of about ten miles: +general direction E.S.E. The features of this torrent are precisely the +same as those of the Kamteechick, but Sedgewickia is common. I gathered +a Stauntonia, Ceratostemma variegatum, and some fine ferns, and two or +three Begoniaceae, Magnoliaceae three species occur, among which is +Liriodendron; Cupiliferae are common, especially Quercus cupulis +lamellatis, nuce depressa; a Viburnum likewise occurred. The stream is +small; the banks in many places precipitous. In one place great portion +of the base of a hill had been laid waste by a torrent coming apparently +from the naked rocks; trees and soil were strewed in every direction. +Clay-slate is common. + +I should have mentioned that Dicksonia occurs at 4000 feet, as well as +(Camellia) _Bunfullup_, after that the former ceases. The two Saurauja +of Suddiya continue up to 4000 feet of elevation; on the first ascent I +observed a large Thistle, but out of flower. No cultivation was passed +after surmounting the first ascent; we passed the remains of a stockade +on the 4th, in which some Singphos had on a previous inroad stockaded +themselves. The hills are generally covered with tree jungle, except +occasionally on the north side where they have probably at some early +period, been cleared for cultivation. To this may be added the curious +appearance of the trees indicating having been lopped. + +Equisetum continues in the bed of the river. Nothing like a pine was +observed. + +_March 5th_.--Proceeded in an E.S.E. direction towards Kamyoom for a +distance of four miles, where we met Dr. Bayfield. As we found from him +that it was impossible to go on, as there were no rice coolies, etc. to +be obtained, we returned to our halting place; where I remained chiefly +from supposing that the Meewoon will start less objections when he sees +that I am in his territory without coolies, etc. Fished in the +afternoon. The Bookhar, or large Barbel already mentioned, still +continues; but there is another species still more common, of a longer +form, ventral fins reddish, mouth small, nose gibbous rough; {66} it +takes a fly greedily, and is perhaps a more game fish than the other. All +the birds inhabiting the water-courses of the north side of the Patkaye +continue. Barking Deer are heard occasionally. + +Gathered one fine Bleteoidia Orchidea, racemis erectis oblongis, sepalis +petalisque fusco-luteis, arcte reflexis, labello albido, odore forti +mellis. Engelhardtia occurs here, Pentaptera, Wallichia, Calamus, +Saccharum, etc. + +_March 7th_.--To-day the Meewoon arrived, accompanied by perhaps 200 +people chiefly armed with spears; he was preceded by two gilt chattas. He +made no objections to my remaining, and really appeared very +good-natured. The first thing he did, however, was to seize a +shillelagh, and thwack most heartily some of his coolies who remained to +see our conference. He did not stay ten minutes. + +_March 8th_.--To-day I examined superficially the ovary and young fruit +of Ceratostemma variegatum, Roxb. The placenta which is very green, is 5- +rayed. The substance of the walls of the ovary which is thick and white, +projects towards the axis not only between the lobes, but also opposite +to each; so that the fruit is really 10-celled, but 5 of the cells are +spurious. The production opposite the placentae necessarily divides the +ovula of one placenta into two parcels, and these are they that have no +adhesion with the axis. At present I can say nothing about the relative +site of the lobes of the placentae, otherwise there is nothing +remarkable, beyond the production of the ovary opposite the lobes of the +placentae. + +_March 12th_.--Yesterday evening Bayfield returned alone, leaving +Hannay on the Patkaye, unable to come on or retreat, owing to his having +no coolies. It was decided, that there was no other step left me to +follow than going on to Ava, and I thus am enabled to obey the letter of +Government, relative to my going to Ava, which reached me on the 10th by +the Havildar. The Meewoon can give me no assistance towards returning, +although he will spare me a few men to carry me on to Mogam. For the +last three days I have been indisposed. Altitude 2138 by the Therm. +Temp. 208 degrees, at which water boils. + +_March 13th_.--Left and proceeded down the Kamyoom, or properly Kam-mai- +roan, according to Bayfield, in an E.S.E. direction for about seven +miles, when we reached the previous halting place of Dr. Bayfield. We +passed before arriving at this a small Putar on which were some remains +of old habitations; on it limes abound, and these are a sure test of +inhabitation at some previous period. + +The vegetation continues precisely the same as that of the Namtucheek, +even to Podostemon Griffithianum, which I to-day observed for the first +time. + +_March 14th_.--Proceeded on, still keeping for the chief part of our +march along the Kammiroan. We left this very soon, and crossed some low +hills on which the jungles presented the same features. We left the +village Kammiroan to our right. We did not see it, but I believe it +consists of only two houses. Passed through one khet, the first +cultivated ground we saw after leaving that on the Kamchick; then we came +on to a few more Putars, in which limes continue abundant. On these I +find no less than three species of Rubus; in those parts on which rice +has been cultivated a pretty fringed Hypericum likewise occurs, and these +are the most interesting plants that have presented themselves. Our +course improved much yesterday; it extended E. by S., and was rather less +than seven miles. Halted at Kha-thung-kyoun, where the Meewoon had +halted, and where the Dupha Gam had remained some time previous. The +same vegetation occurs, Engelhardtia, Gleichenia _major_ longe scandens, +Equisetum both species, Euphorbiacea nereifolia, Dicksonia rare, Scleria +vaginis alatis, Plantago media, Zizania ciliaris, Melastoma malabathrica, +Lycium arenarum, Duchesnia indica, Mazus rugosus, the Suddiya Viburnum, +Millingtonia pinnata, Pentaptera, Erythrina; an arboreous Eugenia fol. +magnis, abovatis, is however new, and Polypodium Wallichianum which +occurred to-day growing on clay-slate. But considering the elevation at +which we still remain to be tolerably high, the products both of the +vegetable and animal kingdom are comparatively uninteresting. There are +more epiphytical Orchideae on the south sides of these hills, than the +north. Musci and Hepaticae are common, but do not embrace a great amount +of species. Machantia asamica is common. Another new tree I found is +probably a Careya or Barringtonia; the young inflorescence is nearly +globular, and clothed with imbricated scales. Sedgewickia has +disappeared. No tea was seen. There is but little doubt that on hills, +the ranges of which rise gradually, the acclimatization of low plants may +take place to such a degree, that such plants may be found at high +elevations; can they however so far become acclimated, as to +preponderate? I expected of course to find the same plants on both sides +of the hills, but I did not expect to find Rottlerae, Fici, tree-ferns, +etc., at an elevation of 4000 feet and upwards. + +The fish of the streams continue the same, as well as the birds. The +Ouzel, white and black, long-tailed Jay, white-headed Redstart, +red-rumped ditto, all continue. Water Wagtails were seen to-day. This +bird is uncommon in hill water-courses; one snipe was seen yesterday. +Ooloocks (Hylobates agilis), continue as in Assam. With regard to fish, +both species of Barbel occur; {68} the most killing bait for the large +one, or Bookhar of the Assamese, is the green fucus, which is common, +adhering to all the stones in these hill-streams: it is difficult to fix +it on the hook. The line should be a running one, and not leaded, and +the bait may be thrown as a fly. To it the largest fish rise most +greedily; plenty of time must be allowed them to swallow before one +strikes, otherwise no fish will be caught. All the same Palms continue +except Calami, Areca, and Wallichiana. + +Balsamineae are uncommon. There is one however, although rare, probably +the same as the bright crimson-flowered one of the Meerep Panee. Urticeae +have diminished; the Suddiya Viola occurred yesterday, the Asplenium, +fronde lanceolat. continues common. + +_March 14th_.--Halted. Water boiled 209 degrees. Temp. 59 and 60 +degrees. Elevation 1622 feet. + +_March 15th_.--Left the Meewoon about 8, and proceeded about 100 yards +up the Khathing. Thence we struck off, and commenced the ascent, which +continued without intermission for some hours, the whole way lying +through heavy tree jungle. Ascent in some places very steep. On +reaching the summit, or nearly so, the jungle became more open, and the +route continued along the ridge. We then descended for 50 feet, and +halted on an open grassy spot where we ascertained the altitude to be +5516 feet. Boiling point 202 degrees. Temperature of the air 63 +degrees. The vegetation increased in interest; I noticed near the +Khathing, Buddleia neemda, Pladera Justicioidea, which continues however +all along even to 5000 feet. Thunbergia coccinea, Chondrospermum, +Dicksonia; near and on the summit Magnoliae and two or three Cupuliferae, +Daphne Strutheoloides, nobis, Gymnostomum involutum, Berberis pinnata, +the same as the Khasiya one, but scarce. Laurinea arborea, Bambusa +monogynia, Rubus moluccanus: Frutex Ruscordeus, Loranthus, Anthistiria +arundinacea, Melastoma, Cyathea, Compositae, Conyzoideae two or three, +Correas one, Hedychium, Eurya, Gleichenia, Hermannia, Lycopodium +ceranium, Hoya teretifolia, Acanthaceae two or three, Bucklandia. + +We thence descended, and after a longish march reached the Natkaw Kyown, +and finally halted on the Khusse Kyown. During this portion I gathered +some very interesting plants, a new Ceratostemma, Adamia, two or three +Orchideae, a beautiful large flowered Cyrtandracea, the same Daphne, an +Umbellifera. Vaccineaceae, four species of Begoniae, a Viburnum. +Crawfurdia and Polypodium Wallichianum, which roofed in our shed; Musci +increased as well as Succulent Urticeae in shady places. Smilacinae were +common, especially one at elevations of from 3 to 5000 feet +inflorescentia cernua. The features are the same, the drier woods +crowning the ridges. On the trees of these, Orchideae and Filices are +common, as well as in low parts in which Acanthaceae abound. I saw no +_Betee-bhans_ nor Deo-bhans, (peculiar bamboos). Of the above, +Ceratostemma, Daphane, Smilacinae, Cyathea, some of the Begoniae, the +large flowered Cyrtandraceae, Umbelliferae are sure indications of +considerable elevation. The course was nearly south. Distance about 13 +miles. Thermometer in boiling water 206 degrees. Temperature of the air +50.5 degrees. Halting place, 3516. + +_March 16th_.--Started before breakfast, and reached the Khusee Kyoung +without any material descent. Thence we continued descending on the +whole considerably until we reached Namthuga, at 10 A.M. Thence the +descent increased. Halted on Kullack Boom. General direction S.; +distance 13 miles. Noticed Areca up to 3800 feet, as well as +Cheilosandra obovata, Bletea melleodora, and Begonia palmata as high as +3000 feet. + +At Namthuga a Sambucus, probably S. Ebulus, a Mimosa, Pothos decursiva, +Hedychium, Urtica urens, Gleichenia major, Tradescanthia panicularis. +Between this and Kullack Boom Acanthaceae are the most common; Paederia +triphylla appears near the Boom, together with Arum viviparum. Black +Pheasants were likewise heard on our route. On the open halting place, +grasses preponderate. Anthestiria arundinacea, arbusculous Gordonia, and +Saurauja, a Laurinea, Styrax, etc. AEsculus asamicus is common, and +profusely in flower, and Pteris as on Thuma-thaya; Musa glauca made its +appearance. From this open space an extensive view is obtained of +Hookhoom valley, bounding which occurs a range of hills stretching E.S.E. +and W.N.W. These in the centre present a gap in which a river is seen +running S. The view to the E. is impeded by the trees on that face of +the hill. The valley is as usual one mass of jungle, with here and there +clear patches occurring, especially to the W. of S., but whether from +cultivation or not, I am unable to say. The Namlunai river is visible; +winding excessively, especially to the E.S.E., it appears a considerable +stream with much sand: it passes out towards the gap above alluded to, +winding round the corner of the hills. + +During the 16th, my attention was particularly directed towards Tea, +which was said positively to exist. I obtained some of the bitter sort, +or _Bunfullup_, but the plant which was pointed out to me as tea +certainly was not, although resembling it a good deal. There is no +reason for supposing, that it exists on these hills, and if tea is +brought hence, it is I should think a spurious preparation. The soil is +in many places yellow, in many brick-dust coloured. If the Tea existed +in abundance, I must have seen it. + +The hills which confine the valley, at least those which are obvious +outliers of the Patkaye range, are characterised by conical peaks, and +there is a bluff rock of good elevation to the W.S.W. .5 S. + +[Valley of Hookhoom: p71.jpg] + +_March 17th_.--Boiled water at 206 degrees Fahr. Thermometer in the +air 61 degrees. Elevation 3270. Commenced the descent, which continued +without interruption to the Loon-karankha, where we breakfasted. The bed +of this, which is a mere mountain torrent, is of sandstone. Here +Ceratostemma variegatum is very common, and has larger, broader and more +obovate leaves, than before observed; Polypodium Wallichianum, a Begonia +and Orchideae are common on its boulders. Continued our course at first +up a considerable ascent, thence it was nearly an uniform descent. +Crossed the Namtuwa, along which our course lay for a short time. The +latter part was through low wet jungle, along small water-courses, till +we reached the Panglai Kha, along which we continued for some time. +Reached our halting place on the Namtuseek about 2 P.M. General +direction E.S.E.; distance about ten miles. Noticed Podostemon +Griffithianum, on rocks on the Namtuwa. My collector gathered one +Daphne, Acanthus Solanacea occurred very abundantly, corinfundib. lab +super postico, infer reflexo, laciniis bifidis. Low down observed the +usual Dipterocarpus, Uncaria and Kaulfussia asamica, Dracaena. Mesua +ferrea occurred during the first part of the march. Noticed the tracks +of a Rhinoceros. At 5 P.M. water boiled at 210 degrees. Temperature 69 +degrees. Elevation 1099 feet. + +The most interesting plants were an Arum, an undescribed Ceratostemma, +and a Celastrinea. + +The collection formed between this place and Suddiya now amount to about +500 species. The vegetation of the lower portions is the same, or nearly +so, on either side of the hills; but I did not observe near this the +Polypodium ferrugineum arboreum, although there is a small arborescent +species of this genus. On either side, the lower ranges are clothed with +heavy wet tree jungle, the under-shrubs consisting of Acanthaceae, +Rubiaceae, Filices, Aroideae, and Urticeae; Kaulfussia does not ascend so +high on this side. Acanthacea solanacea appears peculiar to this side, +although there is a species of the genus on the Kammiroan. + +The plants indicating the greatest elevation are Acer, Ceratostemma +miniatum, and angulatum, Vacciniaceae; Daphne, particularly the Patkaye +one, and D. struthioloides, most of the Smilacineae, Berberis, etc. etc. +Bucklandia Crawfurdii, Begoniae, some Viburnia, Cyathea, etc. of +Ceratostemma (Gay Lussacium?) several, perhaps not less than seven +species occur; all have the same habit, and the same depot of nourishment +in the thick portion near the _collet_. No Coniferae exist, although the +elevation is more than sufficient to determine their appearance. In +Orchideae the flora is certainly very rich, but few species are in flower + +(_Memo_. To compare these elevational plants with those from the Mishmee +hills, on which, speaking from memory, they are more abundant.) + +_March 18th_.--Left at half-past 6, and arrived (after halting about +one hour and a half) at 3 P.M. The road was very circuitous, for the +first part E. by S., subsequently for some time N.N.E., and even N.E.; +the general direction is perhaps E.; the distance certainly 18 miles. The +greater part of the route lay through heavy but dryish tree jungle; but +during the latter half, and especially towards Nempean, Putars or +cultivated fields increased in number, and extent. We crossed one stream +only. The soil is yellow and deep, occasionally inclining to brick-red; +it is apparently much the same as that of Muttack. The low spots were +uncommon. We saw only two paths diverging from ours; one of these led to +Bone, which is about two miles from our path, in a south direction, and +at no great distance from the Namtuseek. + +The features of the country and its productions are much the same as +those of Upper Assam, indeed strikingly so. During the earlier part of +our march we observed a fine Shorea in abundance; it had a noble straight +stem, but the leaves were too small for Saul. The only new plants I +found were Styrax floribus odoris, ligno albo close grained, arbor +mediocris, a Baeobotrys, two Goodyerae, a Laurinea, Sparganium! +Tabernaemontana fructibus magnis, edulibus, fol. obovatis, and a species +of Shorea. + +I noticed the following plants in the following order from Namtuseek: +Dicksonia, Areca, Calamus, Bambusa, speculis pubescentibus, deformatis, a +species of Phrynium, Pladera justicioides, Chrysobaphus Roxburghii, +Phyllanthus, Embilica, a species of Wendlandia common in places that +appeared to have been formerly cleared; Gnetum lepidotum, Celastrinea +_foliis Leguminosarum_, Bombax (inerme) Saccharum Megala, Imperata +cylindica, Anthistiria arundinacea, Ingae sp., Sauraujae sp. Entada, +Gleichenia, Hermannia, Blechnum orientale, Baeobotrys, Meniscium +3-phyllum, Sonerila, Acanthus leucostachys, Diplazium of Kujoo, +_Podomolee_, Saccharum foliis apice spiraliter tortis, Osbeckia, +Rottlera, Lygodium, Rubus moluccanus, Centotheca, Zizania ciliaris, Viola +asamica, Potamogeton nutans, foliis linearibus, Limnophila, Pontederia +dilatata, Lobelia Zeylanica, Hypericum venustum. Panax foliis supra +decompositis spinosis, Callicarpae 2 spec, Duchesnea indica, Combretum, +Melica latifolia, Magus rugosus, Vandellia peduncularis, Villarsia +pumila, Artocarpus integrifolius, Piper, Lagerstraemia grandiflora, Roxb. +Dillenia speciosa, Spathodea. All these exist in Assam. + +The birds are the same. As for instance, common Maina, Doves, the Picus +of low swampy places, and the _Lark_ of the plains of Assam. Squirrel, +ventre ferrugineo. Black Pheasant, _Phasianus leucomelanus_, Laurineae, +Acanthaceae, Rubiacea and Filices, are common in the jungles. + +The Putars are clothed with the same grasses as in Assam. Imperata +cylindrica, Anthistiria arundinacea, Megala in low places with Alpinea +Allughas, in those lately under cultivation, the Campanula of the B. +pooter occurs, together with Hypericum, Gnaphalium, Poa and Carex. + +From the frequent occurrence of these Putars, I should say that the +capabilities of the country, at least the latter half of our march, +improves as far as regards _halee_ cultivation. + +Throughout the march nothing occurred to shew that this part of the +valley is inhabited. We passed, however, an old and extensive burying +ground of the Singphos. Of the Putars only small portions were +cultivated, and the crops did not appear to be very good. + +Nempean, which is a stockaded village, is about a quarter of a mile from +the encampment of the Meewoon, and about S.E., and within 200 yards to +the N.N.E. is a similar stockaded village called Tubone. Both these +villages are on the right bank of the Namturoon, which is a large stream, +as big nearly as the Noa Dihing at Beesa. B. measured it, and finds its +extreme bed to be 270 yards broad. The volume of water is considerable, +the rapids are moderate; it is navigable for largish canoes. On this +bank, _i.e_. right, there is an extensive plain running nearly N. and +S.; no part of it seems to be cultivated. The scenery is precisely the +same as that of Upper Assam, viz. open, flat, intersected by belts of +jungle. With the exception of the W. and the points between this and +south, hills are visible, some of considerable height. To the S.E. there +is a fine peak, which reminds one much of the Mishmee peak, so remarkable +at Suddiya. It is in this direction that the hills are highest. + +No tea is reported to exist here. B. met with it on his road hither, and +shewed me the specimen; there is no difference between this and the Assam +specimens in appearance, neither are the leaves at all smaller. As a new +route has been cut out I cannot visit it, but shall wait until I arrive +at Meinkhoom. + +The Chykwar Mulberry occurs, and to a larger size than I have seen it in +Assam. The Singphos, however, as they have no silkworms, do not make use +of it; I have seen some little cultivation on the Tooroon belonging to +Bon: Kanee or Opium formed portion of it. + +Thermometer in shade at 2 P.M. 85 degrees. + +_March 21st_.--7 A.M. Thermometer 60 degrees. Yesterday at 2 P.M. 86 +degrees! under a decently covered shed. + +Boiled water at 209.5 Fahr. Thermometer 70 degrees, which gives 1399 +feet of elevation. + +Started at 9, and arrived at Kidding on the Saxsai, a small stream which +now falls into the Tooroon. Distance about four miles and a half from +Nempean: general direction about S.S.E. The road runs along the Tooroon +S., and a little to the W. of S.; it then diverges up the Saxsai, which +runs nearly W. and E. Near the mouth of the Saxsai, and about 400 yards +above, there is another small stream, the Jinnip Kha. Both these are on +the left bank of the river. On the opposite side, and about a quarter of +a mile, is a village, which like all the rest is stockaded. Kidding is +larger than either Tubone or Nempean; it is on the left bank of the +Saxsai. Rapids are common in the Tooroon, but are not of any severity. + +The vegetation remains in a remarkable degree similar to that of Assam. +The Lohit Campanula is very common in the stony beds of either river. + +Brahminy Ducks seen at Nempean, and the ravenous Geese of Kamroop Putar. +Fished in the Tooroon, and had excellent sport, killing in the afternoon +twenty fishes, average weight half pound; some weighing nearly two +pounds. Three species occurred, and all were taken with flies; the +smallest are a good deal like the _Boal_ of Assam. The large-mouthed, +trout-like Cyprinida {74a} occurs, and to a larger size than in the Noa +Dihing. The third is the _Chikrum_ of the Singphos; it is a thick, very +powerful fish, a good deal resembling the Roach: one of two pounds, +measures about a foot in length. Outline ovate lanceolate, head small, +mouth with four filaments; eyes very large, fins reddish, first ray of +the dorsal large spinous. It affects deep water, particularly at the +edges of the streams running into such places. {74b} It takes a fly +greedily even in quite still water; but as it has a small mouth, the +smaller the flies the better. Black hackle is better for it than small +grey midges. On being hooked it rushes off with violence, frequently +leaping out of the water. It is a much more game fish than the Bookhar: +the largest I took with flies; with worms I took only one small one. With +regard to the Bookhar, it is strange if it is not found in the streams +running through this valley, as in the Kammaroan it occurs in abundance. + +Black and white Kingfisher, _Alcedo rudis_, Snippets, Curlews of the B. +pooter, with chesnutish back occur in the valley, together with Toucans: +and Ravens occur as in Assam. + +At the village of Kidding there are silkworms fed. + +_March 22nd_.--Started at 6 P.M., reached Shelling khet on the Prong +Prongkha in about two hours; it is distant about seven miles. The +village is now deserted. The nullah is small, with a very slow stream; +direction from Kidding nearly S.E. It was at this place that Bayfield +got his specimen of tea, but on enquiry we found that it was brought from +some distance; it is said to grow on a low range of hills. We started +after breakfast, and reached Culleyang, on the same nullah, about 12 +o'clock. Total distance thirteen miles; direction S.S.E. Path very +winding. The country traversed is much less open than that of Nempean, +but few Putars occurred; and the whole tract is covered either with tree +or Megala jungle. Water boiled at Shelling khet at 209.5 Fahr. Temp. of +the air 68.5 degrees. Elevation 1340 feet. Noticed but very little +clearing for cultivation, neither did the Putars appear to have been +lately under cultivation. + +Culleyang is a village containing about eight houses; it is not +stockaded, and has the usual slovenly appearance of Singpho villages. The +natives keep silkworms, which they feed on the Chykwar or Assam morus, +which they cultivate. I noticed likewise Kanee, or Opium, and Urtica +nivea, which they use for nets; Acanthaceae, Indigofera, and Peach trees. + +Close to the village are the burying places of two Singphos. These have +the usual structure of the cemeteries of the tribe, the graves being +covered by a high conical thatched roof. I find from Bayfield, that they +first dry their dead, preserving them in odd shaped coffins, until the +drying process is completed. They then burn the body, afterwards +collecting the ashes, which are finally deposited in the mounds over +which the conical sheds are erected. Between the village and the graves +I saw one of these coffins which, if it contained a full-grown man, must +have admitted the remains in a mutilated shape; and close to this were +the bones of a corpse lately burnt. + +To-day I shot the beautiful yellow and black crested Bird we first saw on +the Cossiya hills, _Parus Sultaneus_, and two handsome Birds, +_Orioles_, or _Pastor Traillii_, quite new to me, blackish and bright +crimson, probably allied to the Shrikes. + +Of fishes, Cyprinus falcata, or _Nepoora_ of the Assamese, together with +the Sentooree {75} of the Assamese, both occur. Of plants, we noticed +Stauntonia, Vitis, Cissampelos, Butomus pygmaeus, Dicksonia, Hedychia 2, +Croton Malvaefolium of Suddiya, Xanthium indicum; Cheilosandra +ferruginea, Pothos scandens decursiva, etc., Liriodendrum, Kydia. Ficus +elastica? Asplenium nidus, Conyza graveolens, south of the old +clearings. Lemna, Valisneria, Azolla, AEsculus asamicus in abundance. +Limes in profusion near Culleyang; Paederia faetida and the other +species, Naravelia, Hiraea, Phrynium dichotomum, Gaertnera, and Carallia +lucida. New plants, Ophioglossum, Carex, Gnetum sp. nov. Choripetalum, +and two _incerta_. Noticed Pladera justicioides during the first part of +the march, and the small Squirrel of Kujoodoo. + +Six A.M. Temperature 58.5. Water boiled at 210 degrees Fahr. 8 P.M. +Temperature of the air 66. Altitude 1064 feet. + +_March 23rd_.--Started at 6 A.M. and reached Lamoom about 8, where we +breakfasted. Reached Tsilone, the Dupha's village, at noon. General +direction S.W. Distance about ten miles. Lamoom is a small +_un_stockaded village on the Moneekha. Tsilone is a moderate sized +Singpho village on the right bank of the Nam Tunail. The river is of +considerable size, with scarcely any rapids: stream slow. The village is +situated on a rather high bank. + +The country continues the same, perhaps a little more open, at least +Putars are of frequent occurrence, although they are all narrow. Observed +Cryptolepis, Celastrus _leguminoideus_ Cuscuta Uncaria racemis pendulis. +Of birds the smaller Maina, common house Sparrow, blue Jay, and the +larger grey Tern occur. We halted on a sandbank about one mile and a +half higher up to the south of Tsilone. New plants, the Campanula of +Chykwar, ditto Lysimachia, Dopatrium, Jasminum, Rhamnea, Pothos, Lasia, +Riccia, etc. + +_March 24th_.--Thermometer 58 degrees. Boiling point 210. Altitude +1064 feet. After a long and hot march of seven hours we reached +Meinkhoon; general direction -- distance 17 miles. During the first two +hours we marched along the bed and banks of the Nam Tenai, subsequently +over grassy plains intersected by belts of jungle. Country much more +open than that we saw yesterday. To the W. low ranges of hills, about +one-third of a mile distant, occurred throughout the day. We passed two +or three small nullahs, in one of which I observed lumps of lignite. + +The Nam Tenai continued a large river, extreme breadth varying from 250 +to 350 yards. We crossed at once, about half a mile from our encampment, +deepest part of the ford four feet; its banks are either thickly wooded +or covered with Kagara jungle. The day's march was very uninteresting. I +observed a few Mango trees, a Mucuna, Laurineae are common, as well as a +Wendlandia in open grassy places. Sagittariae sp. was the only novelty. +Noticed the Hoopoe bird, _Upapa Capensis_. + +[Meinkhoom: p76.jpg] + +_March 25th_.--Meinkhoon is situated on a very small nullah, the +Eedeekha. The village which is large and well stockaded, is divided into +two by this nullah. The population of both cannot, including children, +be less than 200. They belong to the Meerep tribe. The women wear the +_putsoe_ somewhat like those of Burma, which seems to me quite new in +Singpho women; and is not the fashion with those in Assam. To the S.W. +there is a group of somewhat decayed Shan Pagodas, and a Poonghie house, +around which are planted mango trees and a beautiful arboreous Bauhinia, +B. rhododendriflora mihi, ovariis binis! Around the village is an +extensive plain, and to the S.E. one or two more Pagodas. This Bauhinia +has flowers 1.5 inches across, calyx spathaceus, petalis, +sub-conformibus, obovatis, repandis laete purpureis, vexillo coccineo- +purpureo, colore saturate venoso, carinae petalis distantibus, odor +Copaivae! Stam. 5 declinata, cum petalis, alternantia. Ovaria 2! +anticum posticumque, longe stipetata, difformia superiore minore, +aborticate, ambobus vexillo oppositis! Stylus ruber pallide; stigma +capitatum. One B. variegata, W. Roxb. Fl. Indic. vol. ii. p.319, quamvis +auctor de ovario antico silet. + +Two snakes were captured, approaching in shape to the green snake of the +Coromandel Coast. Under surface throughout bright gamboge colour; upper +surface throughout, excepting about a span or less of the back of the +neck, bright ochraceous brown. The space above alluded to is in one +faintly, in the other strongly variegated with black and white. Irides, +gamboge-coloured. + +_March 26th_.--Visited the amber mines, which are situated on a range +of low hills, perhaps 150 feet above the plain of Meinkhoon, from which +they bear S.W. The distance of the pits now worked is about six miles, +of which three are passed in traversing the plain, and three in the low +hills which it is requisite to cross. These are thickly covered with +tree jungle. The first pits, which are old, occur about one mile within +the hills. Those now worked occupy the brow of a low hill, and on this +spot they are very numerous; the pits are square, about four feet in +diameter, and of very variable depth; steps, or rather holes, are cut in +two of the faces of the square by which the workmen ascend and descend. +The instruments used are wooden-lipped with iron crowbars, by which the +soil is displaced; this answers but very imperfectly for a pickaxe: small +wooden shovels, baskets for carrying up the soil, etc., buckets of bark +to draw up the water, bamboos, the base of the rhizoma forming a hook for +drawing up the baskets, and the Madras lever for drawing up heavy loads. + +The soil throughout the upper portion, and indeed for a depth of 15 to 20 +feet, is red and clayish, and appears to inclose but small pieces of +lignite; the remainder consists of greyish slate clay increasing in +density as the pits do in depth: in this occur strata of lignite very +imperfectly formed, which gives the grey mineral a slaty fracture, and +among this the amber is found. {78} The deepest pit was about 40 feet, +and the workmen had then come to water. All the amber I saw, except a +few pieces, occurred as very small irregular deposits, and in no great +abundance. The searching occupies but little time, as they look only +among the lignite, which is at once obvious. No precautions are taken to +prevent accidents from the falling in of the sides of the pits, which are +in many places very close to each other (within two feet): but the soil +is very tenacious. + +We could not obtain any fine specimens; indeed at first the workmen +denied having any at all, and told Mr. B. that they had been working for +six years without success. They appear to have no index to favourable +spots, but having once found a good pit they of course dig as many as +possible as near and close together as they can. The most numerous occur +at the highest part of the hill now worked. The article is much prized +for ornaments by the Chinese and Singphos, but is never of much value; +five rupees being a good price for a first-rate pair of earrings. +Meinkhoon is visited by parties of Chinese for the purpose of procuring +this article. There are at present here a Lupai Sooba and a few men, +from a place three or four days' journey beyond the Irrawaddi, waiting +for amber. These men are much like the Chinese, whose dress they almost +wear: they squat like them, and wear their hair like them; shoes, +stockings, pantaloons, jackets, tunic. They are armed chiefly with +firelocks, in the use of which at 50 yards two of the men were expert +enough. They talk the Singpho language. + +The vegetation of the plains, proceeding to the mines, is unchanged. +Noticed Apluda, a Phyllanthus, Cacalia, Poa, etc. That of the hills is +the same as that of the low ranges before traversed. The only new plants +were a Celtis? a Krameria (the Celtis is the Boolla of Upper Assam,) +Ventilago, Quercus or Castanea, Compositae, etc. In the damp places a +largish Loxotis, two or three Begoniae, ditto Urticeae occur. I noticed +among and around the pits a species of Bambusa, Celtis, Kydia calycina, +Clerodendrum infortunatum, Calamus, Areca, Dicksonia, Ficus, Pentaptera, +and Rottlera. Pladera has ceased to appear. + +Last night a sort of alarm occurred, and in consequence, this evening, +the head cooly gave his orders to his men in the following terms: "Watch +to-night well." Nobody answering him, he continued, "Do you hear what I +say?" Then addressed himself to them in the most obscene terms, which +habit and uncivilized life seem to have adapted to common conversation +amongst these people without any breach of modesty or decorum; and +amongst the Assamese such expressions likewise form not an uncommon mode +of familiar salutation. + +_March 27th_.--Left about 7, and proceeded over the Meinkhoon plain in +an easterly direction, in which the highest hills visible from the +village lay. We continued east for some time, our course subsequently +becoming more and more south. On reaching the Nempyokha, we proceeded up +its bed for about two miles, the course occasionally becoming west. We +reached Wollaboom at 12.5. General direction S.E.; distance thirteen +miles. The greater part of the country traversed consisted of low +plains, splendidly adapted for _halee_ cultivation. No villages were +passed. Saw two paths, one leading to the N., one to the S. not far from +Meinkhoon; of these the N. one leads to the hills, the S. to a Singpho +village. And we passed burial places of some antiquity, and considerable +extent. New plants; a Loranthus floribus viridibus, petalis 6 reflexis. +Zizyphoidea, and an arborescent Bignonia foliis cordatis oppositis, +integris, basi bi-glandulosis, paniculis racemiformibus, solitariis et +axillaribus vel terminalibus et aggregatis. Marlea Sporobolus, Castanea +edulis, Pteris dimediata, etc., occurred. Noticed the tracks of a Tiger, +of Elks, and the Peewit or Curlew. + +Woollaboom is rather a large village on the Nempyokha, which is here +scarcely 40 yards broad; it is of no depth, and has not much stream. The +villagers are Meereps, but seem to bear a small proportion to their +Assamese slaves. It is not stockaded, but was so formerly. The Souba, +like a Hero and a General, has erected a small stockade for himself near +his house, out of which he might be with ease forced by a long spear, or +a spear-head fastened to a bamboo. He is an enemy of the Duphas, indeed +almost all appear to be so. Whatever events the return of this Gam to +Assam may cause, it appears obvious to me, that the feuds in Hookhoom +will not cease but with his death. So much is he hated, that B. informs +me that his destruction is meditated directly the Meewoon retires to +Mogam. + +Water boiled at 210 degrees Fahr. Elevat. 1064 feet. + +List of Plants observed in Hookhoom, which occur likewise in Assam. + +Eclipta floribus albis, Dactylon. +Pogonatherum crinitum, Cardamine. +Verbena chamaedrys? Sisymbrium. +Phlebochiton extensum, Gaertnera. +Ehretia arenarum, Phrynium capitatum. +Erythrinae, sp. ----- dichotomum. +Trematodon sabulosum, Hiraea. +Marchantia asamica, Naravalia. +Euphorbiacea nerifolia, Liriodendrum. +Adelia nereifolia, Roxb. Paederia foetida, and another. +Spilanthus, Azolla. +Convolvulus flore albo, Lemna. +Mimosa sudiyensis-stipulis am- Conyza graveolens, + plis foliaceis, on clearings. +Vandellia pedunculata, Asplenium nidus. +Bonnayae sp. fol. spathulatis Ficus elastica. + floribus saturate caeruleis, Kydia calycina. +Cordia of Suddiya, Pothos scandens. +Ricinus communis, (See Journal, Croton malvaefolium. +p.174.) Hedychium. +Buddleia Neemda, Hedychim, bracteis + obtusis, apice + reflexis, concavis. +Urtica gigas, +Plantago media, Dicksonia. +Cotula, 2 species, Phlogacanthus, _major_. +Coladium nympheaefolium, Vitis. +Millingtonia pinnata, Butomus pygmaeus. +Uricariae sp. Cissampelos. +Saccharum spontaneum, Stauntonia. +Eleusine indica, Apludae sp. +Cynoglossum canescens, Clerodendrum infortunatum. +AEsculus asamicus, Vandellia pedunculata. +Cynodon, Mangifera indica. +Ardisia fol. obovatis, umbellis Briedelia. + nutanti-pendulis, on the hills. Marlea. +Cheilosandra. Pteris dimidiata. +Loxotis major. Centotheca. +Bauhinia variegata. Castanea edulis. +Cacalia rosea. Sporobolus. + + + +CHAPTER V. + + +_Continues the Journey from Hookhoom Valley_; _Lat_. _26_ +_degrees 20' N_., _Long_. _96 degrees 40' E_., _towards Ava_. + +_March 28th_.--Started at 5.5 A.M., and arrived at a halting place at +3.5 P.M. General direction nearly south. Distance 22 miles. Throughout +the first part we followed the Kampyet, on the left bank of which +Wulloboom is situated. We thence diverged into jungle. The remainder of +the time was occupied in crossing low hills, with here and there a small +plain. We halted on a nullah, which discharges itself into the Mogam +river. + +In the Kampyet I saw abundance of Bookhar fish: these indeed actually +swarm. The country throughout was uninteresting, although in the tree +jungle clothing the small hills we crossed there are noble timber trees. +I saw one of the finest Fici, I ever saw. The Botany of these hills was +very interesting; for instance, a Conifera taxoidea occurred, a new +Cyrtandracea, ditto Acanthaceae 2, Begoniae 2, Tankervillia speciosa, a +species of Bletea, etc. etc. + +I also observed Lindsaea, and Pteris in abundance. Hymenophyllum, +Davallia atrata, Diplazium, Begonia Malabarica? Bambusa spiculis +hispidis, Hypni sp. spinivenio prop. Dicranum glaucum, etc. etc. A fine +Alpinia occurred near Wulloboom. + +We observed no other signs of population than an old burial ground, near +where you strike off into the hills. + +_March 29th_.--Marched in a southerly direction from 5.5 to 1.5 P.M., +inclusive of a halt of two hours nearly: distance fifteen miles. Country, +etc. continue the same. Crossed same nullahs _en route_, before we +reached the Mogam river at 11 A.M. Our course continued down it for 300 +yards; we then crossed into the jungle, and traversed a low rising +ground: subsequently we descended on the bed of the river. The jungle +was for the most part dry. + +Fish abound in the Mogam river; in one place I never saw such swarms of +Bookhar, thousands must have been congregated. The river is of no great +size, the extreme banks being at our halting place about 30 yards +distant. No rapids occur here, and the stream is in general gentle. + +Noticed the Shorea, which is the _Foung bein_ of the Burmese. Some +occurred of gigantic size. It is strange, but a considerable change has +occurred in the Flora since we left Hookhoom. Thus, Jonesia and +Peronema, Jack? or at least one of the involucrate Vitices occurred, as +well as a large Byttneria? fructibus echinatissimis. A climbing species +of Strychnos, a Diospyros, a Sapindacea, were the principal new plants. +Dicksonia and Polypodium Wallichianum continue. + +Slackia of Cuttackboom has white infundibuliform bilabiate flowers, tubo +brevi, deorsum leniter curvato, lobo medio labii inferioris reliquis +minore, lab. super. intus biplicato, plicis sursum convergentibus, stam. +quinto valde rudimentario, antheris apice cohaerentibus. The new +Cyrthandracea of yesterday is suigeneris, Ramondiae affinis. Of this +there are three species, two of which I have not seen in flower. Calycis +laciniae lineari-subulatae. Cor. rotata, subregularis Stam. 4, +subsessilia connectivis amplis, quinto minimo dentiformi. Stylus +declinatus, Stigma subsimplex, Capsula (per junior) siliquosa. Herbae +vel suffrutices, hispidae, habitu peculiari. Folia alterna! vel summa +sparsa vel ob approximationem sub-opposita: intervenia areolata, areolis +piliferis, pilis basi bulbosis. Inflorescentia axillaris, cymosa, +dichotoma. + +The Tankervellia (or Pharus?) has sepala pet. conformia extus alba, intus +fusco-brunnea, labellum cucullatum, breve, calcaratum; intus inconspicue +bilamellatum; extus albidum margines versus exceptis qua uti intus fusco- +sanguineum, fauce saturatiore. Columnae albae clavale sursum subulata. +Anthera fere immersa, Rostellum integrum ut in omnibus glandula orbotis +Pollinia 8. 5 A.M.--Temperature 62. 210. + +_March 30th_.--Marched for about thirteen miles along the bed of the +river, and a more uninteresting march I never had. We breakfasted about +four miles from our halting place at the granary of the Meewoon. The bed +of the river continues wider, and more sandy: the water being in general +shallow. The only acquisitions met with to-day are Grislea, an +arborescent Capparidea, and a pretty Grewia. Of birds, I noticed the +Avocet, or curved-billed Plover, the grey Kingfisher, the green Pigeon, +and the snake-bird, Plutus Levalliantia. The plants occupying the banks +and the bed of the river are the same, viz. Ehretia, Saccharum +spontaneum, spirale; _Kagara_, Erythrina, Ficus, Gnaphalia, Podomolee, +Bombax. Of fish, Cyprinus falcata, and _Nepoora mas_, occur in this +river. + +Temperature at 5.25 A.M. 6l. Water boils at 210. + +_March 31st_.--Continued our march down the Mogaung river, passing +through a most uninteresting, inhospitable-looking tract. General +direction S.E., distance fourteen miles. The river is not much enlarged: +it is still shallow, and much spread out, and impeded by fallen trees and +stumps; it is navigable for small boats up to the Meewoon's granary. +Noticed AEsculus in flower. Of birds, saw the grey and black-bellied +Tern. + +The Botanical novelties are an arborescent Salix, a ditto Cordia floribus +suave odoratis, Phyllanthus Embelica. + +Saw some cultivation on low hills to the S.E. and E. inhabited by +Kukheens. 1st April. Temperature 63. Water 210.25 altitude. + +_April 1st_.--Started at 5.25. Leaving almost directly the Mogaung +river we traversed extensive open plains, halting for breakfast on the +Wampama Kioung. This we crossed, continuing through open plains until we +came to patches of jungle consisting of trees, and quite dry. We +subsequently traversed more open plains until we reached the Mogaung +river, on the opposite (right) bank of which Camein is situated. These +plains were in many places quite free from trees; they are, except +towards the south, quite surrounded with low hills, the highest of which +are to the E., and among these, Shewe Down Gyee, from which the Nam Tenai +rises, is pre-eminent, looking as if it were 3000 feet high, and upwards. +The hills although generally wooded are in many places quite naked; and +as the natives say, this is not owing to previous cultivations, I suppose +that they are spots naturally occupied entirely by Gramineae. The plains +slope towards the hills on either side. They are covered with Gramineae; +among which Imperata, occasionally Podomolee and Saccharum, Anthistiria +arundinacea, a tall Rottboelia, and Andropogon occur; and in the more +open spaces a curious Rottboellioidea, glumis ciliatis, is common. In +addition a Polygala, a Crucifera with bracteae and white flowers, an +Acanthacea, Prenanthes? Centranthera tetrastachys are met with. The +trees are quite different from those of Hookhoom; the principal one is a +Nauclea; Bombax, Wendlandiae sp., a Rhamnea, Phyllanthus, and Bignonia +cordifolia occur; the Nauclea giving a character to the scenery. The +Botany of the patches of jungle is varied. Strychnos Nux-vomica is +common; Congea tomentosa, Engelhardtia, etc. Bauhinia arborea, and +Costus also occur. + +Teak occurred to-day for the first time, but not in abundance, neither +were the specimens fine: it was past flowering, it occurred only between +the patches of jungle among grass. I should have mentioned, that +throughout the first portion of the plains traversed, a dioceous dwarf +Phoenix was not rare, as well as an Herpestes. A beautiful Rose occurs +on the banks of nullahs, and at Camein, on the Mogaung river: it has +large white flowers, involucrate; smell sweet like that of a Jonquil. + +The general direction of the march was S.S.E. Distance fourteen miles. + +Camein consists of two stockaded villages: the smaller one being situated +on a small hill on the Endaw Kioung, which comes from near the serpentine +mines, and falls into the Mogaung river here; this has about twelve +houses: the one below about twenty, the inhabitants are Shans chiefly, +and appear numerous and healthy. Assamese slaves are not uncommon. + +Observed the large blue Kingfisher of the Tenasserim coast, _Alcedo_ +_sinensis_. + +The day's Botany was very interesting, more so than that of any other +days, excepting two on the higher ranges of the Naga hills. The +Crucifera is highly interesting. In the woods Alstonia and Elephantopus; +Salvinia is common in marshes. + +_April 2nd_.--Left at 10 A.M., proceeding over the low hill to the W. +of lower Camein; our course continued traversing low ranges and small +intermediate plains, which we skirted. At noon we reached the Tsee Een +nullah, where we found a large party of Shan Chinese, returning from the +mines; they had but few Ponies, and still fewer Mules. Their dress, +appearance, habits, etc. are those of the lower orders of Chinese. After +leaving this our course continued over similar country, until we reached +the Endaw Kioung at 3 P.M., which we crossed, halting on its left bank; +it is a stream of much strength and a broad bed, but shallow. We saw +some cultivation on low hills to the W.N.W., and could distinguish two or +three houses; it is a small village inhabited by Meereps. + +The vegetation of the valleys or plains continues the same, but in +addition to the Rottboelleoidea minor, is a curious Andropogon, and on +the skirts of the hills a large Anthistiria; some of the finest specimens +of teak also occurred. Bamboo in abundance; otherwise the trees are, +with a few exceptions, completely changed. A fine arborescent +Wendlandia, Bignonia indica? fructibus siliquo-formibus spiraliter +tortis, arborea, Kydia, Eurya arborea, and many other fine trees +occurred, but these I leave until my return. On one plain I noticed a +Cycas, caudice simplici vel dichotomo, and the Phoenix of yesterday. In +the Endaw Kioung two species of Potamogeton, Azolla, and Pistia, +Villarsia and Ceratophyllum occur. + +_April 3rd_.--5.25 A.M. Therm. 55. Water boiled at 210. Elevation +1064 feet. + +Continued our journey over similar country, marching from half-past 5 to +1 P.M., including an hour's halt. Distance fifteen miles: general +direction S.S.W. Passed many streamlets, and continued for some time +close to the Endaw, which is still a largish river, apparently deep, with +a sluggish stream. The plains continue, but of much narrower diameter. +Met many Shan Chinese and two parties of Mogaung people returning from +the mines. + +The most interesting plants of to-day are a Santalacea, a climbing +species, racemis subpendulis, of Citrus--Citrus scandens, Cardiopteris of +which I found old fruit alone, a new Roydsia, R. parviflora mihi. + +The vegetation of the plains continues unchanged, a Dillenia with small +yellow flowers is common on their skirts, Bignonia cordata occurs as a +large tree; no one has seen teak. There is something peculiar in the +appearance of the trees of the plains, especially of the Nauclea; they +look scraggy. I picked up the flowers of an arborescent Hibiscus, and +the fruit of Lagertraemia grandiflora. + +Halted on an old rice khet, near a pool of tolerably clear water. + +Bignonia cordata has sweet smelling flowers, lab. medio labii inferioris +bicristato. Is it not rather a Viticea, owing to the absence of the 5th +stamen? Phlebochiton, Sambucus, Butomus pygmaeus. Many portions of the +hills are covered with plantains in immense numbers, (not Musa glauca). +On hills bounding to the south, one or two spots of cultivation belonging +to a village in the interior occur. The Shans wear curious sandals made +of a sort of hemp, at least those who do not wear the usual Chinese +shoes. _4th_.--5.25 A.M. Temperature 55.5. Water boiled at 210. +Elevation as before. + +_April 4th_.--Continued our course through exactly the same kind of +country, the plains becoming much narrower. Reached the path leading to +Keouk Seik after five hours' marching, and up to this our course was +nearly the same with that of yesterday, between W.S.W. and S.W. We did +not see the village; several (seven or eight) houses are visible on the +hill, which here extends north and south, and along which runs a nullah, +the Kam Theem. + +From this place our course continued almost entirely over low hills not +exceeding 800 feet above us, until we halted on the margin of a plain +bounded to the W. by the Boom, which runs N. and S., the direction being +W.N.W. Distance seventeen miles. On our march we met several parties of +Shans, Burmese, and Singphos. The path from the village to this is much +better, and much more frequented than any of the other parts. Most of +the parties were loaded with Serpentine. Noticed _en route_, both on +the plains and on the hills, Teak; in the latter situations many of the +specimens were very fine. Another noble Dipterocarpea arborea was +observed. I observed Drymaria, Vallaris solanacea, and a Spathodia, +which is common on the plains. Teak is remarkable for the smoothness and +peculiar appearance of its bark, so that it seems to have had it stripped +off. + +Gathered on the hills Ulmus and Hyalostemma, the petals of which are +united into a tri-partite corolla, a Cyrtandracea in fruit, and an +Olacinea, floribus tri-sepalis, appendicibus 6 apice fimbriatis, stam. 3, +sepalis oppositis, racemis erectis. + +_April 5th_.--Reached the mines after a march of about four hours; our +course was winding, continuing through jungle and small patches of plain, +until we reached the base of that part of the Kuwa Boom which we were to +cross, and which bore N.W. from the place at which we slept. The ascent +was steep in some places, it bore in a N.N.W. direction, principally +through a bamboo jungle. From a clear space half way up, we had a fine +and pretty view of the hills and plains, especially to the S. and S.E. In +the former direction, and distant about fifteen miles, we saw on our +return, the Endaw Gyee, but we could not estimate its size or figure; it +is evidently however a large sheet of water; the natives say, several +miles across. From the summit, we likewise had a fine view of the +country to the E.; very few plains were visible in this direction. Nearly +due east, and about thirty miles off, was visible Shewe Down Gyee, and +this will make Camein nearly due east also, or E. by S. The descent +passed through similar jungle, that at the foot being damp. The course +continued in a direction varying from S. to W., or rather between these +points, through damp jungle. We then ascended another steep hill, but +not exceeding 5 or 600 feet in height; descending from this, and passing +through low tree and then bamboo jungle, we reached the mines. + +The road was, up to the base of Kuwa Boom on the W. side, very good, +thence it was in general bad; wet, slippery, much impeded by blocks of +serpentine, and foliated limestone (Bayfield) crossing several streams, +mountain torrents, the principal one being Sapya Khioung. This takes its +name from a spring of water of alkaline properties, which bubbles up +sparingly from under its rocky bed, and which must be covered during the +rains. The water is clear, of a pure alkaline taste, and is used by the +natives as soap. + +The mines occupy a valley of a somewhat semi-circular form, bounded on +all sides by hills clothed with trees, none being of very great height. +The valley passes off to the N. into a ravine, down which the small +stream that percolates the valley escapes, and in this at about a coss +distant other pits occur. The surface of the valley apparently at one +time consisted of low rounded hillocks; it is now much broken, and choked +up with the earth and stones that have been thrown up by excavating. The +stone is found in the form of more or less rounded boulders imbedded with +others, such as quartz, etc. in brickish-yellow or nearly orange clay. +The boulders vary much in size. There is no regularity in the pits, +which are dug indiscriminately; some have the form of ditches, none +exceed 20 feet in depth. They are dug all over the valley, as well as on +the base of the hill bounding it to the W. and N.W. We could not obtain +any good specimens, nor is there any thing in the spot that repays the +visit. No machinery is used, the larger blocks are broken by fire. But +that they are of importance in the light of increasing the revenue, is +evident, from the fact that B. counted, since we left Camein, 1,100 +people on their return, of whom about 700 were Shan Chinese. The loads +carried away are in some cases very heavy; the larger pieces are carried +on bamboo frames by from two to five men, the lesser on a stout piece of +bamboo lashed to and supported on two cross or forked bamboos, the +stouter joint resting on the bearer's neck, the handles of the forks +being carried in his hands. The most obvious advantage of this is the +ease with which the load may be taken off, when the bearer is fatigued. +The revenue yielded last year, B. tells me, was 320 viss of silver, or +about 40,000 rupees. The length of the valley from E. to W. is about +three quarters of a mile; its breadth varies from 460 to 800 yards. + +On our return we boiled water at the Soap spring, which is about 50 feet +above the mines, Temp. of the air 80.5. 2.5 P.M. of boiling water 209. +Elevation 1600 feet. And on the top of Kuwa Boom, which is crossed at a +comparatively low place, at 4.5 P.M. Temp. of the air 76, of boiling +water 207. Elevation 2678 feet. + +I can say nothing as to the peculiar features of the vegetation, in the +woods towards Kuwa Boom. I gathered three Aurantiaceae; the Olacinea of +yesterday is common, a large arborescent Artocarpus fructibus oblongis +sub-informibus, sub-acidulis, .75 uncialibus; Teak rarely; Tonabea, noble +specimens occur; on the Kuwa Boom, a large Gordonia arborea, two +arborescent Myrtacea, large Mangoes, Bamboo, a Morinda; Magnoliaecea +occurs on its western face, as well as the Conifera toxoidea before +gathered. Dicksonia and Pladera justicioidea both occur. Dianella +nemorosa, etc. The Serpentine is carried from Keoukseik in boats down +the Endaw Kioung, thence to Camein, and from whence it goes to Mogam, +which is probably the principal mart. Calamus spioris petiolorum +uncialibus verticillatis occurs in abundance in all the damp jungle. + +We returned in the afternoon to our halting place of yesterday, from +which the mines are distant ten miles, four of which occur from the side +of Kuwa Boom to the West. The Endaw Gyee is situated on a plain, but it +is enclosed by hills on every side except the S.E. Those to the south +are very high. + +_April 6th_.--Returned, diverging from the path to the village +Keoukseik. Noticed Liriodendron, AEsculus, Achyranthis aspera, Vallaris +solanacea, etc. + +The village is situated to the S. of the road to the mines; it is close +to the Nam Teen, and on a small elevation; it is stockaded. The number +of houses is about sixteen; of inhabitants, including children, 120: all +the houses, except two, being small. The merchants, etc. employed about +the mines, halt on the Nam Theen, which is up to this point navigable for +small boats. + +Thermometer 66. 6.5 A.M. Temp. of boiling water 210. + +_April 8th_.--Reached Camein at noon: halted on the 7th at our former +hut on the Endaw Kioung. The additional plants noticed are Duchesnia +indica, common in wet places; a Bamboo, paniculis (culmis) nutantibus +aphyllis, amplus. Pandanus; Curculigo pumila, floribus sub-solitarius +ante folia, 6 vel. 4 partitis; a Careya, Dillenia, arborea floribus +numerosis parvis luteis. + +AEschynomena, Anthistiria arundinacea, Composita arborea, 40-50 pedalis. +Another species of Anthistiria, common on the margins of hills during the +march. Fir trees are reported to exist on _Lioe Peik_, which bears +South from Kioukseik. Volcanic hills reported to exist near the Endaw +Gyee, but no salt rock occurs. This mineral is said to be found three +days' march from Kioukseik on the Nam Theen. The revenue said to accrue +from the Serpentine mines, is probably highly exaggerated; and the supply +of the stone is said to be diminishing yearly. Casually found on the Nam +Toroon, a Sterculia arborea, florib-masculis clavato, infundibul. +coccineis, pubescentibus: a Sophora, floribus albidis pallidissima +ceruleo tinctis, of which the flowers alone were seen; Prenanthis +flosentis citrinis, a Polygala and Hypericum were likewise found. + +_April 9th_.--Left Camein at 6, and reached Mogoung at 6 P.M. after a +march of at least twenty-five miles. The course at first was nearly due +east, until we reached the Nam Pong, but subsequently it became more +southerly. Camein bears from this about S.S.E. The country traversed +was the same, generally comparatively open, that is to say, grassy plains +with Rhamnea, Nauclea, Bombax, etc. For some distance the path extended +through shady woods. No villages, nor any signs of such were observed +_en route_. We passed many streamlets particularly during the latter +half of the march. Our original intention was to have come to Mogoung by +water, and with this view Bayfield told the man sent by the Myoowook to +procure two or three canoes. At 6 A.M. the Havildar came up to our hut, +and said that the headman of the village was disputing violently about +our taking the boats. Bayfield proceeded down to the river side, where +the Yua Thugee was very insolent, and he and his followers drew their +_dhaos_ (swords) on Bayfield, who slightly pushed the Thugee. It ended +in our going by land. We had previously heard of the rebellion at Ava: +the Thugee's behaviour evidently arose partly from this. I did not +observe the dispute, as I remained near the stockade. + +Noticed a Lonicera in low places, and the Viola of Suddiya on the plains, +a Cardiopteris, Kempferia, Curcuma, a Bambusa vaginis collo barbatis, a +scandent Strychnos, an Aerides, Ardisiae 2, some Acanthaceae, Loxotis +major, Urticeae 2 or 3, Santalacea as before, Tetrantherae, Davallia +atrata, Asplenium fronde simplici, etc. etc. + +_April 10th_.--We halt, and hear a report of the death of Mr. Kincaid, +and that a Burmese army is _en route_ here. The whole country is most +unsettled, all the Singphos and Khukeens being in open rebellion. It +appears that Thurrawaddi is meeting with success in his summons for men. +No resistance shewn to his authority hitherto except by one Myoowoon. Our +Myoowoon has absented himself, and the Myoowook determined on surrender. +Bayfield under all circumstances, and failing authentic intelligence of +Mr. Kincaid, resolves on remaining here. + +Mogam is a rather pretty town, situated on the right bank of the Mogoung +river, at the confluence of a river 100 yards broad, the water of which +spreads out, in some places, to a considerable breadth and depth. The +country is however low, flooded in the rains, and surrounded by hills, +except in the direction of Shewe Down Gyee. In many places it is only +covered with grass. The town is large, and was formerly stockaded, the +remains of the timber stockade being still visible. It contains about +300 houses, about 2,500 inhabitants, mostly Shans. The houses are +generally raised, in many cases like those of the Kampties, the chopper +coming low down, shaped like a turtle's back. There is a very distinct +opening or chasm in the hills between S. D. Gyee and a low range to the +North, but no river makes its exit there. Sunday, 16th. + +_April 18th_.--Halted up to this date, waiting for information +especially regarding the army at Tsenbo. + +In this place two fragrant Dipterocarpeae are found; as also Bixa, +Tamarindus, and Carthamus, which last is cultivated and used both for +food and dyeing. About the Poongie houses some remarkable Fici occur, +the trunk being divided so low down as to give the idea of a group of +several trees. The roots in addition are made to spread over the conical +mounds, thrown up at their bases. + +A race of wild-looking short men, called Lupai Khakoos, inhabit this +vicinity, wearing a jacket, and dark-blue cloth with an ornamented +border, worn with the ends overlapping in front. They wear garters of +the Suwa. Their hair is worn either long or cropped, and a beard is also +occasionally worn by the elders. + +In this place very few regular Chinese are to be found, and the few that +are here seen, are ultra-provincials; none are acquainted with the +manufacture of tea. This article is procurable here, but at a high rate; +it is sold in flat cakes of some diameter; it is black, coarse, with +scarcely any smell, and in taste not much superior to the Assamese +article; 20 tickals weight sells for 1.25. All the blue cloths of the +Shans are dyed, Bayfield informs me, with Ruellia, or jungle indigo. + +It is with these people that the only trade seems to be carried on, and +this is limited to amber and serpentine. They are very dirty, and +excessively penurious, but industrious. Owing to their habits and +extreme penury, there is no outlet for our manufactures in this +direction; so that I fully agree with Hannay's statement, that 500 rupees +worth of British goods would be unabsorbed for some years. Rosa is +common, also a Rumex; a Sisymbroid plant also occurs. Among the trees, +all which are stunted, Gmelina arborea occurs. There are some Assamese +slaves here among the people, one of them is said to be a relation of +Chundra Kant, the Suddiya chief: slaves are held in very small estimation +with the Burmese. Thus Bayfield asked his writer, who such a one +standing near him was, whether a Shan or Singpho? The man answered, "My +lord, it is not a man; it is a Waidalee." + +Altogether, Mogoung is an uninteresting place; the surrounding plains are +barren-looking, and inhospitable, and clothed with grass. Here and there +a ragged Nauclea, Careya, etc. is visible with Gmelina arborea. The +undershrubs are chiefly a Rhamnoidea, and a Phyllanthus. Rosa is common; +Rumex and Nasturtium are both met with. + +News arrived yesterday evening to the effect, that the King is drowned, +the heir-apparent in the palace: and that Colonel Burney is with +Thurrawadi!!! + +My collections up to this place amount to 900 species. + +_April 19th_.--Left at 12, and halted after having gone about four +miles. The river continues the same as above; it is a good deal impeded +by trees, and much more so by sandbanks. + +_April 20th_.--Reached Tapaw in the afternoon; our progress is, +however, very slow the stream being slight, but the river is much +improved; being less spread out, owing to its greater proximity to the +low hills: often very deep, generally clothed with jungle to the water's +edge. On the hills near Tapaw are some Khukeens of the Thampraw tribe, +and on these hills bitter tea is reported to be found. This the Khukeens +bring down for sale. + +_April 21st_.--Continued our course, performing about twelve miles +between 7 and 5, inclusive of one hour's halt. At some distance from +Tapaw and thence throughout the day, here and there occur rapids, which +are much worse, from the stream being impeded by large rocks. In some +places it is divided, in others, compressed between hills, and here it is +very deep. + +_April 23rd_.--Arrived at the Irrawaddi. The Mogoung river is very +uninteresting; the stream being generally slow, sandbanks very abundant, +as well as stumps of sunken trees. At its mouth it is deep, and about +seventy yards across. The banks are either overgrown with trees or else +grassy; the grasses being Arundo and Saccharum. On the steep banks of +the hills where these descend into the river, ferns are common together +with an Amaryllidea out of flower. Cadaba is common, as well as a large +Mimosea. Rosa continues; as also AEsculus. On the road by which the +Chinese branch off from Tapaw to the Irrawaddi, I gathered an arborescent +Apocynea foliis suboppositis, and a Homalineous tree, floribus +tetrameris; Salix is common all down the river. Teak only occurs +occasionally. In one place I gathered Lonicera heterophylla, a fragrant +Valeriana? and Jonesia in abundance; this last being here apparently +quite wild. Adelia nereifolia, a Ficus, Ehretia arenarum, and the usual +sandy plants occur on the banks. Pistia, Salvinia and Azolla are common. + +The Irrawaddi opposite the entrance of the Mogoung river, is 600 yards +across. It is a noble stream; has risen a good deal, and presents one +unbroken sheet of water. The banks are by no means high, and are grassed +to the brink. The water is cold and clouded; its temperature is 66.5 +degrees, that of air in a boat 88.5. We reached Tsenbo about 1 o'clock, +having passed five or six villages, mostly small, and inhabited by Shans. +Tsenbo numbers about 30 houses, but these as throughout Burma, as far as +we have seen, are small; it is situated on a low hill on the left bank. +Both banks are hilly, especially the right. The river has risen +enormously during a halt here--many feet. In one hour we found it to +rise about 16 inches. At this place I gathered a fine blue Vanda, and a +curious tree habitu Thespiae: stigmatibus 4. Between this and the +entrance to the narrow defile Kioukdweng, which is about 1.5 miles +distant, three villages occur. This entrance is well marked, the river +becoming suddenly contracted from 300 to less than 100 yards. We halted +about 6.5 P.M. at Lemar. Noticed four or five villages between Lemar and +the village at the entrance of the defile. All these villages are +inhabited by Poans, a distinct hill tribe. Passed through two fearful +places, one in particular where the whole body of water rushes through a +_gate_, formed by huge rocks not 50 yards wide. + +_April 24th_.--Continued our course, and arrived at Bamoo about 5.5 +P.M.; the greater part of the journey extended through the Kioukdweng, or +defile, in which some terrific places occur, one in particular known by +two rocks which are called the Elephant and Cow. Passed several small +villages before we made our exit from the K. dweng: all inhabited by +Poans. Between this and Bamoo the country along the river is truly +magnificent, and is well inhabited. The largest village contains about +70 houses; at least seven or eight occur, between the points above noted. + +The Kioukdweng is a remarkable and an awful object. The greatest breadth +of the river while confined within this defile does not exceed 250 yards, +and in all the bad places it is contracted to within 100, occasionally +50. From the enormous rise of the river, which, last night alone +amounted to an increase of ten feet, the passage is one continued scene +of anxiety. In the places above referred to the river rushes by with +great velocity, while the return waters caused on either side by the +surrounding rocks, occasion violent eddies and whirlpools, so as to +render the boat unmanageable, and if upset the best swimmer could not +live in these places. The rocks are serpentine and grey limestone, +presenting angular masses which project into the stream; the former in +all places within high-water mark is of a dark-brown colour. Micaceous +slate? likewise occurs, although rarely. The depth is of course +enormous, in the low state of the river, when Bayfield passed up, in many +places no bottom was found, at 25 or even 40 fathoms, and at this season +the water had no doubt risen 40 feet higher. Some idea of the rise that +has taken place may be formed from the fact, that in places where, when +Bayfield passed up, the stream did not exceed 70 yards in width, it was +now 200; and of course a rise of 20 feet in the open river, would +determine one of at least 40 within the K. dweng. After passing the +Elephant and Cow, which have the usual resemblance implied by their +fanciful names, the river widens and becomes tranquil. The whole of this +Kioukdweng is truly remarkable, and in many places very picturesque. + +The vegetation is, I imagine, similar to that of the low hills about +Mogoung; but so dangerous was the passage, that I had but few +opportunities of going ashore. The hills are thinly wooded, and all bear +many impressions of former clearings; but the spots now under cultivation +are certainly few. Besides, we must bear in mind, that the spots +cultivated generally throughout thinly populated parts of India are +deserted after the first crop, so that a very limited population may +clear a great extent of ground. Bayfield tells me, and I consider his +authority as excellent, that the population is almost entirely limited to +the villages seen during the passage. These do not exceed twelve, and +they are all small. None of the hills exceed 500 feet in height +(apparently,) they do not present any very peculiar features. + +Below the maximum high-water mark the vegetation is all stunted, at least +that of the rocks; a tufted Graminea is the most common. Adelia +nereifolia (Roxb.), a Celastrinea, a curious Rubiacea, which I also have +from Moulmain, two Myrtaceae, a Rungia, are the most common. I did not +observe Podocarpus. In the occasionally sandy spots Campanula, the usual +Compositae, Panica three. Eleusine, Clenopodium, and Atriplex are +common, a Stemodia, and Asclepiadea likewise occur. One Clematis +carpellis imberbibus, and the Lonicera are met with. No mosses appear to +occur. One remarkable tree, _Belhoe_ of Assam, 70 feet high, cortice +albido, foliis orbato, panculis (fructus) pendulis, occurs: it has the +appearance of an Amentaceous tree. + +_April 27th_.--We have remained at Bamoo; nothing appears to have been +settled below, and the river is reported to be unsafe. It has fallen at +least three feet since our arrival. Bayfield measured the left channel +yesterday; it is nearly 750 yards wide. + +Bamoo is situated on the left bank, along which its principal street +runs. The town is a very narrow one, the breadth averaging about 200 +yards; its extent is considerable, but it scarcely contains 600 houses, +and of these 105 are Chinese, and only has one good street, _i.e_. as +to length. Neither are the houses at all good or large, so that the +population cannot be established at more than 3000. I allude only to +those within the stockade; out of this, and close to Bamoo are two or +three small villages. The stockade is of timber, _pangaed_, or fenced +outside for about 30 yards; it has just been completely repaired, as an +attack is expected from the Khukeens. + +The Chinamen live all together, in a street of low houses built of +unbaked bricks; these are not comparable to the houses at Moulmain. There +is but little trade now going on. Within the stockade and without, low +swampy ravines occur, that cannot be but injurious to the healthiness of +the town. The Myoowoon spends all his money in pagodas, none of which +are worth seeing: all the roads and bridges he leaves to take care of +themselves. + +The _inferior caked tea_, sugarcandy, silk dresses, straw hats, and +caps are procurable, but at a high price. Pork is plentiful, and the +bazaar is well supplied with fish. It is a much more busy place than +Mogoung, as well as considerably larger. The chief export trade with the +Chinese is cotton; the revenue however by no means equals that of the +Mogoung district. + +The country around is nearly flat; on one side of the stockade there is +an extensive marsh well adapted for paddy. Otherwise the ground is dry, +and tolerably well drained; it appears to have been formerly wooded; at +present the environs are occupied by undershrubs. I have observed no +peculiar botanical feature. Among the undershrubs are Phyllanthae 2, +Apocynea arborescens, Gelonium, Combretum, Strychnos, Vitex, Melastoma. +When I say undershrubs, I mean that such is their present appearance. The +only new plant is an elegant Capparis, subscandens, floribus albis, +odoratis demum filamentisque purpureo-roseis. About old Pagodas, Pladera +of Moulmain, a Labiata, Stemodia, and Andropogon occur. + +The cultivated plants are those of the coast, Hyperanthera Moringa, Bixa +Orellana, Calotropis gigantea, Artocarpus integrifolia, a Phyllanthus, +Cordia Myxa, Carica Papaya, Citrus medica, Plantains, a large and coarse +Custard Apple, Mango, Zyziphus, Cocos, Taliera, Agati. + +The climate is dry and sultry, the diurnal range of the Thermometer being +from 28 to 32 degrees. At this season, viz. at 6.5 A.M. from 66 to 68; 4 +P.M. from 94 to 96. North winds are common, daily commencing from that +quarter, or terminating there. They are not accompanied by much rain, +although the weather is unsettled. + +_May 2nd_.--A Khukeen whom Bayfield sent for tea returned, bringing +with him many specimens out of flower. The striking difference between +this and the tea I have hitherto seen, consists in the smallness and +finer texture of the leaves. For although a few of the specimens had +leaves measuring six by three inches, yet the generality, and these were +mature, measured from four to three, by two to three. As both entire and +serrated leaves occur, the finer texture was more remarkable. The +bitterness, as well as the peculiar flavour were most evident. Young +leaves were abundant. + +The Khukeens make no use of the tea. The Chinese here talk of this as +the jungle tea, and affirm that it cannot be manufactured into a good +article. They talk of the valuable sorts as being very numerous, and all +as having small leaves. Neither here nor at Mogoung are there any real +Chinamen, nor is there any body who understands the process of +manufacturing tea. The caked tea is not made to adhere by the serum of +sheep's blood, it adheres owing to being thus packed before it is dry. +The plain around Bamoo is intersected by ravines, which afford good paddy +cultivation; no large trees occur within 1.5 miles of the town. At this +distance a large Dipterocarpea is common. In the underwood around the +town, a Dipterocarpus, arbuscula, foliis maximis, oblongo-cordatis, +Gordonia, Lagerstraemia parviflora, Elodea, Nauclea; Leguminosae 3, +Gelonia, Combretum, Jasminum occur. In the marshes Ammannia +rotundifolia, Cyrilla, Azolla, Marsilea, and Salvinia, Serpicula, +Ceratophyllum; a Campanula _arenosa_ reaches thus far. + +Every day indecent sights occur in the river, owing to the women bathing +without clothes, and either with or near the men. They appear to be +indifferent to the concealment of their person, breasts, and hoc genus +omne, being freely exposed. They swim very well, and in a curious way. +They make their escape by squatting down in the water, unfolding their +cloth, and springing up behind it. As for the men, they appear to take a +pride in exposing every part of their bodies. No gazers-on occur among +these people, such not being the fashion. + +The Shan Tarooks who trade with this place use oxen in addition to other +beasts of burden; the breed appears good, resembling the smaller kind of +India. + +The Irrawaddi here is between the extreme banks a little less than 1.5 +miles broad; the channel on which Bamo is situated is the largest, and is +800 yards across. Two other channels exist, of which the west is the +smallest, and carries off least water. The river is a good deal +sub-divided by sandbanks, but is, compared with the Burrumpooter a +confined river. Since our arrival here it has sunk several (say five or +six) feet, and no longer looks the noble river it did on our arrival. + +The sandbanks when they do exist are either naked, or clothed with +partial and not gigantic grassy vegetation. I have not seen any thing +comparable to the churs of the B. pooter in this respect. The +temperature of the river is not particularly low, and is much higher now +than during the rise. From Bamoo the opening of the Kioukdweng is not +conspicuous, nobody unacquainted with the course of the river would +imagine that it passes through the range of hills to the N. and NNE. The +highest hills visible are to the east. They are within a day's journey, +and are clothed to their summits. Some appear 3000 feet high. + +Low hills inhabited by wild Khukeens, are visible nearly all around, +except perhaps due west. The wild fierce nature of these people is +attended with a great extent of mischief, quite unchecked, without +eliciting even precautionary measures on the part of the Burmese +Government. + +There are a few angles in the Bamoo stockade, and these exist because a +straight line cannot be preserved; and large torches are placed out on +levers for illuminating the enemy, and loop-holes are cut through the +timbers; watch-houses are likewise placed at certain points. There are +two rows of _pangahs_ or fences outside, but not the Singpho pangahs. +Notwithstanding all this the river face is quite defenceless. + +The soil is dry and sandy, and cultivation is carried on principally on +the churs. Pumpkins and Gourds are abundant; Yams, (Dioscorea,) not very +good. Rice is sold at the usual price, a basket full for a rupee. The +town is dirty, and not kept in any order. + +_May 6th_.--We left Bamoo, and in three hours reached Kounglaun, a +rather large village on the left bank, containing 100 houses, many of +which are respectable, better indeed than any in Bamoo. It contains many +small ruined pagodas. A gigantic tree grows within the stockade, which +is a very poor one. Punica Granatum, and Beloe, were the only plants of +interest observed in the neighbourhood. + +We passed several (six or seven) villages, none except one with more than +thirty houses; the one alluded to had sixty. All the houses continue +small. The river is here much subdivided, and in many places shallow; +sandbanks are common. Vegetation of banks is almost entirely Gramineae, +and coarse strong-smelling Compositae. The grasses are different from +those previously met with, except the Arundo. Rosa continues; Salix is +common. Between Koungloung and Tsenkan, which is on the same bank, and +close to the entrance to the Kioukdweng, three villages are met with; but +none of any size. Tsenkan is prettily situated on a high bank, or rather +low hill. The houses are about 100 in number, all poor and small. The +stockade is a miserable affair. There are some good Poonghie houses, and +a very pretty group of pagodas on a small rock. The country is jungly; +just above the town a nullah enters the Irrawaddi: it is down this that +large quantities of teak is brought, from hills two days' journey to the +eastward; some large rafts were seen, but although some of the timbers +were stout, none were of any great size. I gathered a pretty +Hippocrateaceous plant in the jungles, as well as a Combretum; a Vitex, +an Amyridea, etc. Phrynium dichotomum occurs here; Rosa continues; +Jatropha is cultivated. + +_May 7th_.--Started at 5 A.M., and entered the Kioukdweng almost +immediately. We halted about 7, at Tsenbo. Noticed AEsculus, +Sisymbrium, Campanula, Adelia nereifolia, Dillania speciosa, the usual +Compositae, and largish Dipterocarpeae. The river is a good deal +narrowed, but never less than 130 yards across, and as there are no rocks +in any direction to impede the stream, the water flows but slowly and +very placidly. Almost all the rocks forming the hills are grey carbonate +of lime. These hills are covered to high-water mark, with scanty +somewhat stunted trees, the most of which have no foliage. The scenery +is by no means so bold as in the upper K. dweng, although just above +Tsenbo, there is a noble cliff, 300 feet high, and almost perpendicular; +under its ledges we observed great numbers of bees' nests. The rock when +exposed is rather greyish black, and in many places reddish. Serpentine +occurs, but is not common. A good deal of lime is prepared in this +Kioukdweng, and some portions of it in the rugged serrated appearance, +remind one of the limestone cliffs on the coast. Above Tsenbo and nearly +opposite the cliff, is a small village of eight houses. Tsenbo numbers +fifteen; it is on the left bank, and is a miserable place. Here we were +left by our escort which accompanied us from Tsenkan, and the Thogee +refused positively to give us two or three men to row. Although master +of a miserable hole, he had made preparations for defence, and had set on +foot a custom house. We saw a good many boats passing up, all evidently +containing families moving away from their villages. + +In this Kioukdweng a fine Palm exists, which I have never seen before. +Caudex 10-15 pedalis, crassa, petiolorum basibus processibus vestitis, +frondibus pinnatis, 10 pedalibus, pinnis ensifornibus 2 to 2.5 pedalibus, +subtus glaucis, diametro 1.5 uncialibus, basi valde obliquis, bilobis! +lobo inferiore maximo, decurrenti, uninervi: floribus in spadicibus +nutanti-curvatis, amplis, basi spathaceis spicato-paniculatis. Florib. +masculis polyandris. + +Petiol. bases cretosae, intus processubus atris, subulatis, longissimis +robustis quasi panicillatis. + +Habitus quodammodo Wallichiae. Hab. in Umbrosissimis. + +An arbuscula Anonacea, floribus dioicis, Mas. corollae petalis apice +valvatim cohaerentibus, basi apertis, potius distantibus, Ovariis (faem) +pedicellatis, also occurred. + +Fructus elliptico-oblongus, subuncialis, hinc a basi ad styli punctum +linea tenui exsculptus, unilocularis, unisporus. Endocarp, ac testa +viscoso-gelatinosa. Testa ac tegumen intera membr. chartacea. Albumen +copiosum hinc et suturae fructus oppositae, profundius exarat. sectione +transversa-reniformi. Carnoso albumeni germen secus sulcum affixium. +Embryo in axi albuminis, radicul super. Cotyledones foliaceae, albae, +amplae, curvat seminis sequentes: suturae placental, oppositae. Ejusdem +generis cum Menispermea: in sylvis Singfoensibus cum Wallichia: vide +Icones. + +Arrived at Kioukgyee at 5 P.M. Waited on and dined with the Meewoon, who +is a gentlemanly, spare, lively man with grey hair. Dinner was good, and +clean. Preserved dried jujubes from China, as well as some preserved by +himself were very good. Kioukgyee is on the right bank of the river, +which is here undivided by islands, and about 1200 yards broad. Just +above the town there are some rocks. The number of houses is about +eighty-five, most of them arranged in a broad street running along the +river, and the best that I have seen for some time. + +The village is surrounded by a new and wretched stockade, the outskirts +being fenced or _pangaed_; the people are on the qui vive, and the whole +village seems to be in a constant state of alarm. All the jungle +immediately adjoining the town is cut down; many of the houses are +unroofed, and all the gates are guarded. Visited this morning the lines +occupied by the attacking force; these were not 300 yards from the +village, and occupied the skirts of the jungle: trees had been felled and +earth thrown up, but not in such a manner as to obstruct in any way +tolerably brave men. We saw none of the slain, we may therefore doubt if +there were any, but it was evident from platters, etc. strewed about, +that the flight of the robbers had been very precipitate. We passed some +little distance above this, a holy island, the numberless small pagodas +on which, had a very pretty effect. Close to these there was a small +village, Sheweygyoo, which had been just burnt down by the Kioukgyee +people, for giving assistance to the robbers; this as well as two other +contiguous villages before occupied a good extent of the left bank, and +numbered probably 150 houses. Most of the inhabitants have retreated up +the river. + +_May 8th_.--Reached Katha at 6 P.M. Throughout the day saw little of +interest. What we did see, gave evident tokens of disturbances,: +villages deserted; dogs starved, howling piteously; canoes without +owners. At one village a few miles below Kioukgit, our arrival caused +much excitement, and a gun was fired off as a signal of alarm on our +approach. + +_May 9th_.--Katha is on the right bank of the Irrawaddi; it is situated +on an eminence, and commands a fine view of a fine reach of the river; +the situation indeed is excellent. It contains nearly 200 houses, but +these are not of the better description. To the west is a fine chain of +hills, the lowest ranges of which are distant about one mile and a half; +the highest peaks are perhaps 1500 feet. No signs of alarm or +disturbances are here visible, although part of the force that invested +Kioukgit came from this village. We here learn the agreeable news that +the country below is quiet, and that no robbers now infested the road. +The Thogee is a fine looking young man; very polite. This village boasts +of some pretty pagodas, well grouped, and a very fine _Kiown_, the +workmanship of which astonished me, particularly the carving; it is built +of teak, the posts being very stout, and very numerous. Several merchant +boats left before us, apparently anxious for our escort. + +Behind the town is a large plain used for the cultivation of paddy. +Otherwise the jungle comes close to the houses, although the larger trees +have been felled for firewood, etc.: the woods are dry, and tolerably +open. In the morning I went out towards the hills; the chief timber +trees are a fine Dipterocarpus, and a Hopea; Pentapetes likewise occurs; +Terminalia Chebula. Gathered a fine Arum, somewhat like A. campanulatum. +An arboreous Gardenia, as at Mergui; Myrtacea, Vitex, Bauhinia of +yesterday; Randia, Andropogon aciculare; some stunted bamboos were +likewise observed. Altogether Katha is the prettiest place I have yet +seen. The river opposite it is confined to one bed, about 500 yards +broad. + +_May 9th_.--Left at 7 A.M., and reached the mouth of the Shwe Lee at 1 +P.M.; the distance according to B. being sixteen miles. Passed a few +villages, but none of any size; the houses of all continue of the same +description. The river presents the same features. Salix continues. +Sandbanks occupied by annual Compositae occur, two Polygona, Campanula, a +Ranunculus, much like that of Suddiya, a Labiata, Paronychia, two +Spermacoces; Bombax occurs just below Katha; Salix and Rosa continue. +Shwe Lee is a considerable river, at the mouth between 4 and 500 yards +broad; but one-third of this is unoccupied by water, and the stream is +not deep, although of the ordinary strength. Above, it narrows +considerably. + +7.5 P.M. Temperature of the air 76 degrees. Of Irrawaddi 74 degrees. + +_May 9th_.--Tsa-gaiya. This is a mean village on the left bank, about +eighteen miles from Katha; it is close to a low range of hills, and +occupies part of a plain, which is adapted for paddy cultivation. Near +the village to the North, is a small _jeel_, covered to a great extent +with a large Scirpus, Jussiaea, Azolla, Salvinia, etc. Water-fruits are +abundant; round this paddy is cultivated, and they appear to cut it at +this time. Low ground near the jeel is covered with a low, handsome +Stravadium or Barringtonia, as well as a Xanthophyllum, resembling +exceedingly in appearance a Leguminosa: the wood is hard. Calamus is +also common. A handsome Nauclea occurs, and on the grassy margins of the +plain a small Euphrasia is common. + +During our stage I observed large quantities of Bombax, and a tree +apparently the Beloe of Assam; the banks were either grassy or wooded, +especially on the right bank, which is skirted entirely by hills of the +same barren looking description. The grasses are all small compared with +those of Assam. + +_May 10th_.--Reached Tagoung late in the evening at 7.5: distance +thirty-two miles. The river continues the same; the hills on the left +bank are much broken into ravines: all continue clothed with the same +stunted vegetation. + +_May 11th_.--Tagoung is a miserable village on the left bank; it +occupies a rocky eminence, and contains less than 100 houses. It is the +most inferior village I have yet seen, the streets being dreadfully dirty +and the houses very mean. We visited an old pagoda, about a mile from +the town, which is surrounded by an antique wall, much obscured by +jungle, and more resembling a bund. On our route hither we landed at +Thigan, a village containing about forty houses, and prettily situated at +the foot of a hill of micaceous sandstone, on the right bank. At this +place are the remains of a fort built by the Chinese, of slabs of the +rock forming the hill. Similar remains exist at Myadoung, on the +opposite bank, as I learn from Mr. Bayfield. I gathered a Sida, +Capparis, Prionitis, Gnaphalium, and a Xanthoxylia petiolis alatis +armata; an Adiantum grows between the slabs composing the wall. At +Tsenkan I observed an Agave, a different Cactus, a fleshy Euphorbia; and +an Ananassa is common all about. + +About Tagoung the botany is varied, and interesting. I gathered about +fifteen plants that had not occurred before, two Poae, two Andropogons, a +Zanthoxylum, and an Olax. The most interesting is an Apocynea, floribus +infundibulifor. lamina reflexa, fauce squamis dentatis 10, serie duplici +dispositis, interioribus petalis oppositis et majoribus, antheris, in +conum stigma omnino coadunatis. Cotton cultivated here; plants taller +than usual. The villages around are all forsaken owing to one of them +having been attacked by Khukeens, and two men carried off. Hence the +population at Tagoung, although usually scanty, is now much increased +from adjoining places. A small river falls into the Irrawaddi +immediately above Tagoung. + +_May 12th_.--Reached Male about 6 P.M. Passed _en route_ a few +villages, none of any size or importance. The river varies in width, +_i.e_. the channel, from 400 to 600 yards. The banks are either +alluvial or rocky; and there are hills on the right bank skirting the +river; those on the left, are more distant and higher. Borassus +commences to be common; it is a taller, and more slender tree than that +of Coromandel, and the trunk is not covered with the persistent bases of +the petioles. + +The village of Tsebainago is opposite to Male, and appears nearly of the +same size. Both are situated close to the mouth of the third Kioukdweng. +Male contains 150 houses, all small; it is a place of no trade. To the +north is a hill forming the river bank, and covered with pagodas; it is +the prettiest place we observed after Katha. The soil has now put on the +dry sterile appearance of the Coromandel coast, all the trees of which, +except the figs, are common; and often render the banks very pretty. +Tectona of Hamilton is very common; it is a tree not exceeding in height +40 feet, much resembling in habit the more valuable species; the flowers +are blueish, particularly the villi; the leaves have the same excessive +rough feel. Two other Verbenaceae, a curious Capparidea, caule laxo, +foliis lineari-oblongis, basi hastato-cordatis, and a Ximenia are common. +On the banks Stravadium, and an arboreous Butea, a Combretum, are common. +Low stunted bamboos likewise prevail; and all the bushes are prickly. +Nyctanthes is cultivated. The rocks as well as those forming the +Kioukdweng, are of coarse sandstone, here and there affording nourishment +to abortive Compositae, stunted grasses, Mollugo, etc. + +Left Male, and entered immediately the last Kioukdweng on descending, or +the first defile on ascending against the stream. This is a pretty +passage, and moreover has no dangerous places; the hills are low, lower +than those of the two former passes, consisting of sandstone partially +clothed with the same scanty vegetation, presenting the same barren +appearance. Olax, Fici, Leguminosa, stunted bamboos, Hippocrateacea, +Mimosa, and Stravadium, occur. Celsia on sandy spots, together with +Campanula, but this last is becoming rare. Adelia nereifolia continues. +An arundo occurs on the naked rocks; Cassia fistula, Tectona Hamiltoniana +are also present. + +We are much impeded by south-west winds; and owing to this and the +slowness of the stream, we were compelled to remain some time at Thee-ha- +dau. We there had excellent opportunities of seeing the fish, which are +so very tame as to come up to the sides of the boat, and even to allow +themselves to be handled. The faqueers of the place call them together; +but I think they are not much disposed to come from mere calling, for +they seem to require more substantial proofs of being wanted, in the +shape of food: they are found in still water in a small bay, which is +closed up still more from the influence of the stream by a round island, +constructed superficially on a rocky base, and on which pagodas are +built. They resemble a good deal the Gooroa Mas of Assam, but have no +large teeth as this has. They are very greedy, of a blueish grey colour, +occasionally inclining to red; the feelers are in some forked: they have +no scales. + +We continued our course when the wind lulled; halted to dine on a +sandbank, and proceeded on afterwards, until we reached Kabuct about 8.5 +P.M. On the sandbank where we dined I gathered a Crotalaria, Campanula, +Cleome, a Graminea, Polygonum, Cyperaceae, and a Dentelloidea. The +villages seen were all small. + +_May 13th_.--Left Kabuct before 6. Halted to breakfast on a steep +bank, finding it impossible to proceed against the south-west winds, +which have now become prevalent. + +At this place, which is hilly, I gathered Gmelina villosa, an Anonacea, +calyce 6 sepalis, cor. tripetala, pet. patentissimis, margine revolutis, +luteis. A Carissa, Grewia, Malpighiacea samaris, 3-alatis, alis +dorsalibus abbreviatis, a curious Graminea, a green Orchidea, terrestris, +bulbosa, flore ante folia evoluta, a Diospyros, Polygala, Plectranthus, +Rungia, Pladera, etc. + +Halted at Movo, owing to the wind. This is a very pretty village; of no +great size, and of no importance. A delightful tope formed by Mango, +Fig, and Garcinia, or Xanthochymus, the dense shade of which is most +agreeable; Averrhoa, AEgle Marmelos is cultivated here; Borassus is +common, trunks of which are often of very irregular diameter. Low grassy +places occur running along the back of the village, with abundance of a +Combretum fruticosum; and a nullah at either end of the village presents +many trees on its banks, particularly a very large and handsome Myrtacea, +Hemarthria compressa. Stravadium racemis longe pendulis. + +We were compelled to put into Mala on the right bank, about a mile above +Tsengoo, by a severe storm from the north-west. This village consists of +about forty houses, many pagodas, and has a good many potteries, and some +fine trees. It is at the entrance of the Kioukdweng. Observed Jatropha +Curcas, and Vitex negrendo. In the evening we proceeded to Tsenbou. + +_May 14th_.--Left Tsenbou, and breakfasted at Nbat Kiown-wa. Just +above this are several villages, two of which number nearly seventy +houses each. This is the most populous part I have seen. To the east of +this are the Ruby mines in the Shan hills; and to the south-east low +hills from which the marble is procured, from which they make the idols. +The river features continue the same; namely, low hills close to the +right bank, and more distant as well as higher ones on the left. On the +Shan hills to the east, teak forests occur; on those to the west, tea +also grows. In Polong tea districts also occur; but the tea is very +coarse, and said not to be drinkable. Hemarthria, and Hoya viridiflora +were found. + +Here I found Solanum, Tribulus, a Mimosa, lime trees, Carissa, Mimusops, +Stemodia ruderalis now appear. The most interesting is a small diffuse +Caryoplylleous-looking plant, with white Campanulate flowers; it is +probably a Frankeniacea. On the pagodas an Aristella grows. Certain +features prevail in the vegetation similar to those of the Coromandel +coast. Fig trees often surrounded at base with brick-work; this never +lasts long, the roots tearing up the masonry in every direction. + +The exit from this 3rd Kioukdweng is very pretty. Tsengru with its +numerous white pagodas; the noble river expanded into a broad bay; the +Eastern hills are very beautiful, and the Marble hills which form a +background to Tsenbou are no less so. The banks towards the exit from +the defile are sloping, often covered with grass. The Palmyra trees and +Fig trees have a very pleasing effect. At Kiougyoung there is a large +brick fort, built by Alompras. The village contains about 150 houses: no +large village is passed between this and Kubuct. + +Halted above Sheemnaga to look at Gaudama's foot, a piece of workmanship +contained in a pagoda; it is a very large foot, with a central circular +impression. This is about a mile below Endawka. Sheemnaga never +contained more than 400 houses, I counted upwards of 180, and although +extensive traces of fire, and of new houses existed, I should reckon it +to have contained only about 300. At the Pagoda I gathered a curious +Rutaceous-looking decandrous thorny tree, with foliis bijugis. + +Reached Mengoon about 7 P.M. Landed at the commencement of the sandstone +hills, which in some places assume the form of cliffs: texture very +loose. They are full of holes, and abound with blue rock Pigeons. +Gathered a Murraya. Trichodesma indicus and Compositae, Asclepiadea, +Calotropis gigantea, and a curious Arenariod-looking plant. + +_May 15th_.--Mengoon boasts of a huge unfinished Pagoda, consisting as +it now stands of an immense square brick mass, surrounded by four fine +broad raised terraces; it would have been, had it been finished, upwards +of 700 feet high. The dome was to have been with angular sides. Height +170 feet; the basement, as may be supposed, is immense. The plan or +model of it was first built in a small adjoining grove to the south, by +the grandfather of the present king. The whole kingdom must have been +occupied in its erection. The entrance to it is guarded by two huge +Griffins. Several large bells lie close to it. The country around is +hilly; the hills low, raviny, and clothed with stunted vegetation. +Beautiful topes exist along the river bank, between this and the cliffs +before alluded to; consisting chiefly of fine mango trees, noble Fici +likewise occur. About Mengoon, Jatropha Curcas is common. Gymnemea, +Calatropis gigantea, and Argemone abound. We found a Pergularia, Lippia, +Zyzyphus, and one or two small Euphorbiaceae. The soil is dry, sandy, +and barren. + +We reached Ava about 1 o'clock. + +_May 21st_.--Went to Tsegai on an excursion: the hills in this vicinity +are low, none exceeding 300 or 400 feet, dry and barren, chiefly composed +of grey carbonate of lime, and in some places Kancha occurs. Pagodas are +very numerous, but none are very large, or bearing the stamp of great +age. A fine view of country is however afforded: large plains are seen +to the east of the city, and between the hills and the river two large +jheels are visible from the hills. + +The vegetation almost entirely consists of low stunted, very ramous +shrubs, and these are generally thorny. Not a tree visible except Bombax +and Tamarindus, but this last is planted. A large subarboreous Cactus, +spinosus, ramis 4 angulis, is common. Noticed four species of Capparis, +and the following plants, Barleria, Prionitis, Tamarindus, AEgle, +Zizyphus, Cocos; Borassus, Bixa, Cordia, Punica, Ricinus, Melia Azederak; +Citrus Cassia, near houses and on the hills; Euphorbia 2, Ximenia, +Cleome, Boerhaavia, Adhatode, Cassia sennoidea, Sidae, Andropogon, a lax +Linaria common on old pagodas; Calanchoe, Sedum, Pommereulla, Vinca +rosea, Tectona Hamiltoniana, but not of such size as at Male. Bambusa +stunted and rare, Blepharacanthus, Polygala, Labiatae 2, AEruae, sp. Fici +one or two, an Alstonia, Celosia mollugo, Solani sp. Stemodia, Combretum, +Heliotropium indicum, and the Euphorbiacea of Mengwong. It will at once +be seen that the vegetation has some similarity with that of the +Carnatic, for in addition I found Asplenium radiatum, and Limonea +Monophylla, a Carissa, Ximenia, Flacourtia, etc. etc. + +Ava is a fine town, surrounded with an excellent brick wall: the streets +are wide, and kept clean; the houses are regular, and as trees are +interspersed, a pleasing effect is produced. The appearance is much +improved by a lattice before each house. The houses also are of a +superior description, a few only are of brick. The fort is surrounded by +an additional wall, and a broad but shallow ditch. The palace is a +handsome, irregular, gilt edifice; but its precincts are not kept so +clean as they might be. The Shwottoo is a handsome hall. The town +altogether conveys an idea of importance. The river is about 800 yards +broad opposite the Residency; but above, it is encroached on by a +sandbank. Boats are numerous, and opposite Tsegain there is a busy +ferry, especially now the king is at Tsegain. This is a much preferable +place, and rendered much more pleasing by its superb Tamarind trees, with +their most elegant foliage and sculptured trunks. The plants cultivated +about Ava are Palmyra, Cocoa (rare). Tamarinds abound; Carica Papaya, +Punica Granatum; Mangoes, which are of good description; Cordia, +Plantains, AEgle Marmelos. + +The country is flat, and destitute of trees to the south and southwest. +The whole of this is cultivated during the rains, chiefly for Gram, +Tobacco, Capsicum, and a Melilotus. At present the plains are barren, +the low places being almost exclusively occupied by a Combretum; the rest +give a new Polygonum, Lippia, 2 or 3 Compositae, and a curious dwarf +grass. On the walls Linaria is common. Noticed near one of the gates, +Cryptostegia grandiflora; the waste places and banks are occupied by +Argemone, Mollugineae three, Xanthium, Dentella, and low annual +Compositae. + +_May 26th_.--Visited Tsegain in the evening, and returned to Ava on the +following morning. + +_May 27th_.--Noticed Phoenix sylvestris. The Euphorbia is common; it +is not a Cactus, but a species of this genus, ramis complanatis, is found +though not common; as well as an Agave or Aloe, but this is a doubtful +native. Poinciana pulcherrima, both red and yellow, Rhus? sp. arbuscula, +Vallaris solanacea. A small Lycopodium, Gmelina asiatica? The +additional Madras plants are, Cissus quadrangularis. There is likewise +another fleshy species fol. 3 phyllis, Sarcostemma viminale, Indigofera, +Kalanchoe laciniata is common; so is the white Cyperacea on barren spots! +I met with Sarcostemma ciliatum; Wall.? petalis extus viridescent, intus +ciliisque purpuro sanguinies, but it is rare. Cardiospermum pubescens is +certainly distinct, the flowers are twice as large as those of C. +Halicacabum, fructibus inflatis vix alatis, ovalibus, dehiscentia +septicida, septis axi adnatis, persistentibus. Semin. solitarii centro +loculi affixis, pisiparvi magnitudine, atris. + +NOTE.--Where any discrepancy occurs with regard to the native names in +the preceding Journal, it is requested that such may be corrected from +the Report to Govt. Chapter VII. p.115. + +[The view from Beesa: p109.jpg] + + + +CHAPTER VI. + + +_Botanical notes connected with the foregoing Journal_. + +(_February 19th_.--The finest view of the hills from Upper Assam is +obtained on a reach or turn of the river just above Palankar, the river +bending to the NNE. Snow is plentifully seen on one back range from the +Sugar-loaf peak. Another reach shortly after presents a fine view of the +Burrampooter chasm, terminated by the rugged peak so distinctly seen from +Suddiyah, due east. This view might be chosen, as a general +characteristic of the Scenery of Upper Assam. + +It embraces the Mishmee mountains to the left, the higher peaks of which +are covered with perpetual snow. These lie to the NNE. of Beesa. To the +east, is the continuation of the Himalaya, to the South-east and South, +the Patkaye, and Naga ranges; the whole forming a panorama, rarely if any +where surpassed in beauty. Temperature. of the river at 6 A.M. 67 +degrees + +_Musa_. Many flowers from the axil of a bract; no bractioles +interspersed, hence we may expect racemose or spicate partial +inflorescences. The perianth is unilateral, 5 cleft, the two smaller +segments, which are intermediate, being internal, or belonging to a +different series. Within this petaloid perianth is a membranous one, +together with a boat-shaped bracteolate body, entire. The stamens are +five, evidently opposite to the segments of the petaloid perianth, +staminibus adnatis, the sixth is not developed, but is rudimentary, and +exceedly minute, opposite to the bracteoid body. The carpella three, +alternate as they ought to be with the last series of stamina, and hence +they are opposed to the larger and outer segments of the petaloid +perianth, but this last point deserves further examination. + +The base of the bracteoid sepal is filled with a gelatinous, sweet, +transparent, unicoloured .5 fluid. + +I am unaware whether this explanation has occurred to any body else. + +It is curious as compared with Scitamineae, in which the posticous stamen +is alone fully developed. Pl. 1. Fig. 3. _a_. bracteoid body, _b_. +sterile stamen, c.c.c. outer series, d.d. inner ditto. + +The fact of the outer smaller laciniae belonging to a second series is +not very apparent, but is corroborated by the evidently internal +situation of the bracteoid scale, and by the evidently elevated lines +visible in the inner. + +(_April 3rd_, _1837_.--On march towards the Serpentine mines) the face +of the perianth, corresponds to these smaller laciniae. + +_April 7th_.--Thunbergia grandiflora has the pedicels of its flowers +twisted, or not twisted, according to the situation of the flowers. Thus +if the flower be so situated that the raceme has the direction of the +axis, or in other words is erect, the pedicel is straight, but if the +raceme, as generally happens, be pendulous, the twisting of the pedicel +is resorted to, to secure the flower that situation which it would have, +were the raceme erect. + +The above is obvious in flowers which from elongation of the axis of +inflorescence, have fasciculate or aggregate flowers. An obvious +inference is, that the twisting of the pedicel is not of generic, nor of +specific importance; and that it is capable of being produced +artificially. + +This resupination is not uncommon in the order; it is most evident in +Thunbergia coccinea, in which the racemes are always pendulous. There is +nothing, at least in this species, in the situation of the genitalia to +account for the resupination. + +Pedicelli demum apicem infra articulati, the inflorescence of this order +is always centrifugal, the partial axis being invariably as well indeed +as the general, disposed to dichotomy. Hence the very common presence of +three bracteae to each flower, the central one presenting the leaf from +whose axil the partial branch springs. + +Stipulae--if the analogy of these be difficult to ascertain, the +structure and functions would appear to be as of leaves, in addition to +the function of protection. In most cases they are certainly not double +organs; in Naucleaceae they are apparently so. Can this be explained by +supposing them to form a bud with four scales, the scales instead of +being imbricate, being on one plane. Stipellae of Leguminosae are +certainly single; these being all probably stipulate plants, are to be +considered as having terminal buds, the buds being either totally, or +partially protected by the stipulae. The difficult nature of ochreae of +Polygoneae is certainly to be acknowledged, but they are similar to those +of Costus, and hence not stipulae, but an extension of the margin of the +vaginate petiole, from which veins are prolonged into it; the functions +of these are not stomatose, since they are membranous, the veins being +the only green parts. + +I see no reason why the stipulae of Rosae are not to be considered as +belonging to, or dilatations of the petiole. They have no distinct +vascular fascicles to indicate a distinct origin. And further, in Lowea +no stipulae exist. + +_Jonesia_: pedicellis apice articulatis, basi bracteolatis, ideoque +infloresc. magis composita esse debet; laciniis anticis? corollae? +perianth compositum, binatum praebentibus, emarginatio et situs stam 5ti +rudiment. Staminis laciniis alternatis? basi in annulum, seriem 2 +indicantem coalit. {111} The situation of the stamens is somewhat +obscure, the two lowermost however alternate with the segments, the two +intermediate being sometimes sub-opposite. + +Of course if they be opposed, the perianth will be referrible to a calyx +if not to a corolla. + +_Lepidostachys_ or Scepa. Fruit dicarpillary, stigmata four, hence they +are placentary not costoid. bilocular, loculis dispermis, ovula 2 pend; 1 +abortiv. semiunceum, testa vix arillus obsacuit clause lutescens carnosa +et ab nuclei inter adhaeren. Rad. sup. embryo junior viridis. + +Stipulae cad. Gemmam oblegent. + +_Homalineae_, Calycis; laciniae 4, petal 4, Glandulae 4 totidem sepalis +oppositae. Connat; stamin 4, petal opposita; styli 4. Ovar non ext. + +Arbor magna. foliis alternis stipulatis, paniculae racemoso-axillares, +Flores minut. viridescent. Pet. et sep. fimbriat. aestiv. imbricat. + +_Clematis_ has semina pendula. + +The stipulae of Ficus obviously belong not to the leaves, their insertion +taking place .5 a line above that of the petiole. Hence they belong as +obviously to the elongation of the axis above the leaf; their coloration +is curious, especially as they are green when young. Their vernation is +conduplicate and plicate. + +_Combretum_ presents several points in common with Rhamneae; valvate +calyx, and tendency to want of petals; to Elaeagneae in calyx and +furfuraceous scales; a decandrous Rhamneae would differ but little in +flowers from Combretum. + +_My idea_ of the origin of stigmata is proved to be correct by a +Phyllanthus, the carpella of which are ovuliferous below, the upper part +being fleshy, the stigmata are two to each, obviously corresponding to +the placentary inflexions, while the sinus terminating the dorsal suture +is totally naked; it is this which should bear the stigma if Lindley's +view were correct. + +The true place of Moringa seems to be near Xanthophyllum with which genus +it has some remarkable points of resemblance, witness the papilionaceous +corolla; unilocular stamina, their situation, ovary, placentation, and +lastly glandulation. + +To this Lindley has made an approximation by placing the order near +Violarieae. Its chief difference from Polygaleae, is habit, foliation, +and the perigynous insertion of corolla and stamina, and consequent union +of the sepals. As in Xanthophyllum there is no albumen. + +(An additional Xanthop. which until to-day I have always taken for a +Leguminosa.) + +_Tamarindus_ cal 4 partitus, sepals 2, superiorib. connatis. Pet. 3, +vexillo, sepalo postico composit; opposit; stamen tria; sepalis 3, +inferior opposita. Stylus aestivation deflexus. + +Pedicelli apice articulat. Folii petiol. basi articulat. Stipulae +minimae stipellae. + +In Jonesia, there are no petals. Humboldtia comes near Tamarindus, +through H. Brunonis, which agrees in calyx and petals. + +Thorns of Prionites, what are they? They are axillary, and yet buds are +produced between them and the axis. They have no connection with the +leaves. Were it not for the buds above alluded to, I should say that +they were abortive branches (bearing one pair of leaves) reduced to +spines. + +_Olacineae_. Certainly in habit, corolla, etc. Olacineae are allied to +Aurantiaceae, but they are nearer akin to Santalaceae. The processes are +indubitably modified stamina, with a great tendency to irregularity; in +one species from Tagoung only three fertile, and five sterile stamina +were observed: the three fertile generally, but not invariably, alternate +with the petals. + +To Santalaceae they approach in processes, valvate corolla, and +placentation, also to Loranthaceae. + +Eight stamina thus accounted for; when two opposed to petals, belong to +outer series--also single one. + +In Punica, the structure of the ovaria is highly curious. We find the +bottom of the tube is occupied by two cells, partially filled with ovula, +which are attached both to the axis and to the base, as well as to the +lower part of the outer paries of each cell; so far, it does not depart +from the order, for in Aplexus the placentation is tolerably similar. + +Above these two, are 4-5 cells, filled with ovula, which are attached +entirely to the outer wall of each cell, but the placentae however would +seem to have an obvious connexion with the axis, although this is very +doubtful. + +The formation of the stigma decidedly indicates a binary formation of +carpella. + +If these 4 upper cells are 4 constantly, and the base of the ovary is as +constantly two celled, then the explanation is sufficiently obvious, +though different from that given by Lindley. {113} + +First, we have in the bottom from which the mere structure of an ovary is +deduced, the normal dicarpellary structure, and there is in addition a +tendency in excess toward a parietal placentation. + +The anomalous formation arises first from parietal placentae being +produced to the axis, and from spurious growth from the sides of the +ovary also meeting in the axis, by which the ovula are divided into four +bundles. + +Lindley's view seems to be questionable, because as in all cases the +styles and stigmata are more permanent than ovaries, there should be as +many styles, etc. as ovaries. 2nd, because according to this view the +placental suture of the carpella would be turned from the axis, (look at +Pomaceae,) although his view of Pomaceae being right would indicate an +additional affinity with Mespilus, etc. which it does in habit and +abbreviated lateral branches. + +Are all Myrtaceae dicarpellar? + +The true nature of the case is pointed out in the instance cited by +Lindley of a permanent variety of apple, which has 14 cells and 14 +styles! With regard to Nicotiana and Nolana; have these one or two rows +of carpella? + +TECTONA. + +Arbores, trunco crasso, cito ramoso, cortice albido, laevi, tenui. + +Folia siliceo-aspera, inflorescent dichotoma. + +Calyx aestiv. valvat. cor infundibul, subregularis laciniis, 5 +rotundatis, demum reflexis aestivat. laciniis super 2, omnino exterior, +facies barbato-villosa. + +Antherae longit dehiscent, stylus stigma simplex. + +Pubescentia stellata. + +Modo Asclepiadeae, corolla rotata. + +GMELINA VILLOSA. + +Lab. super. aestivat. omnino exterior fl. axi fere paralleli, pedicell +apice bibracteolat. + +Cal. minim. 5 dentat. + +Cor. infundibul campanul. bilab; 4 partit. stigma bilabiat-lab infer +longiore. + +AROIDEUM. + +Radix maxime napiformis, undique radiculas exserens, et superne e centro +spadicem. Spadix pedunculum 3-uncial terminans, basi squamis magnis +membranaceis, lineari-oblongis stipatus sursum in corpus fungoiden, +capitatum, maximum, purpureo-sanguineum, superficie rugose dilatata. + +Ovar bilocul, diovulat. + +Medio antheras bipoross confertissimas, sessiles, numerosas, basi ovaria +distantiora gerens. + +Ovaria fusco-purp, stylus elongatus clavatus, stigma clavato, capitat. + +Odor-floris praeserti marcescentis pessimus. + +Katha in sylvis aridis. + +The fruit of Lagerstramia grandiflora can, I think, be explained by +assuming it to consist of several carpella, which by not becoming united +near the axis, leave an irregular shaped space in the centre; the +placentae are fleshy, the ovule inserted all around. This view does not +take into consideration the situation of the stigmata. The deeper sulci +visible externally correspond to the inflexions of the carpellary leaves; +in addition to this, the centre of the dorsum of each of these is marked +with a line. {114}) + + + +CHAPTER VII. + + +_Report to the Government of India_, _12th July_, _1837_. + +In the following report, I have divided the marches into series, +corresponding with the countries through which they were made, reserving +a table of the whole for a subsequent part. These series will be as +follows-- + +1. From Sadiya to Beesa Lacoom. + +2. From Beesa Lacoom to Namtusseek. + +3. From Namtuseek to Wullabhoom. + +4. From Wullabhoom to Mogoung. + +5. From Mogoung to Ava. + + +I. FROM SADIYA TO BEESA LACOOM. + + +COUNTRY TRAVERSED BELONGING TO THE BRITISH GOVERNMENT, AND FORMING PART +OF THE SOUTH-EAST EXTREMITY OF THE VALLEY OF ASSAM. + +1. From Sadiya to the Noa Dihing river mouth or Mookh. Direction east. +Distance 6 miles performed in boat, the course lying up the Burrumpootur. + +2. From Noa Dihing Mookh to Rangagurrah on the Noa Dihing. Direction +SSE. Distance 12 miles, course lying along the dry bed of the Noa +Dihing. + +3. From Rangagurrah to Moodoa Mookh, on the same river. Direction south- +east, the distance being 12 miles. {115a} + +4. From Moodoa Mookh to Kidding. Direction south, the distance 9 miles, +course south-east, along the bed of the Noa Dihing as far as Wakhet, +thence diverging to SSW. through heavy jungle. + +5. From Kidding to Namroop Puthar. Direction, nearly south, the +distance being 12 miles, course lying through very heavy jungle, crosses +the Karam Panee, {115b} which here is not fordable, and another +considerable feeder of the Booree Dihing, and lastly up the Namroop. + +6. From Namroop Puthar to Beesa Lacoom. Direction southwest, the +distance 12 miles, the course extending at first over low hills and +difficult ground, thence through heavy jungle intersected by narrow +plains, lastly chiefly along the banks of the Darap Panee. + +_Nature of the country_.--It will be seen that with the exception +of the three first marches, and part of the fourth, the country is +occupied by the heavy jungle so prevalent in these parts. The chief +difficulties our party experienced arose from the limited manner in which +the jungle had been cut for their passage. + +_Rivers_.--The only one not fordable in the above route, is the Karam +Panee, but this does not hold good either above or below the place I +crossed. They all discharge much water during the rains, and even in the +dry season are navigable for small canoes. + +_Villages_.--These are as follows:-- + +1. _Digalo Gohain Goung_.--On the right bank of the Noa Dihing it is +inhabited by Kamptees lately settled in our territory, and is a +respectable village. The Noa Dihing here ceases to be navigable even for +small canoes. + +2. _Wakhet_.--This is a new but wretched village, inhabited by Singphos. +Wakhet Gam was an adherent of the Duphas, and is by all account one of +the worst-disposed Singpho chiefs. He is said even at this period still +to traffic occasionally in slaves. + +3. _Kidding_.--A temporary village, containing about 10 houses, +inhabited by Nagas, now naturalised to the plains. + +4. _Namroop Puthar_.--So called from a plain on the left bank of the +Namroop. The village, which is a mean and despicable one, is on the +opposite bank. + +5. _Beesa Lacoom_.--Is situated on the right bank of the Darap Panee, +which is fordable at the heads of the rapids. It contains 12 small +houses. The Gam is, I believe, an uncle of the Beesa Gam, and exercises +exclusive control over the tribe of Beesa Nagas. This influence he +appeared to exercise to our disadvantage. He is a discontented man, and +his behaviour to our party was very unsatisfactory. + +_Population_. {116} --This is scanty enough, particularly when we +consider that the houses in the above villages are much smaller than in +the better sort of Singpho villages. With the exception of the Kamptee +village the average number of people to each house cannot exceed five. +Another small Singpho village exists on the Namroop, about 3 miles from +Namroop Puthar, and not far from the site of the coal mine. + +_Capabilities of the Country_.--These are of the usual description. +The soil is productive enough, but the labour of clearing the drier spots +is excessive. Excellent rice grounds exist in abundance between Beesa +Lacoom and Namroop Puthar, but the cultivation of this, as well as of all +the other necessaries, is limited to the quantity absolutely required. +Scarcities of grain are of frequent, indeed almost of annual, occurrence; +and this is chiefly owing to the pernicious influence of opium or Kanee, +to which all our Singphos are immoderately attached. Of the _Mineral_ +_Productions_, coal and petroleum were the only ones we met with. + +_The coal occupies_ the greater portion of a precipitous part of the +sandstone composing the left bank of the river Namroop. Three large +veins have been completely exposed by the cutting away of the bank. The +coal is I believe of good quality. The river immediately under the veins +is very deep, and were it not for the rapids which intervene between the +site of the mineral and the Booree Dihing, it would be difficult to +conceive a spot affording similar facilities for the transmission of the +mineral. I must however, observe, that even in the dry season the river +is navigable for small canoes as far as the site alluded to. During the +rains no difficulty whatever would be experienced in the carriage, as +rafts might be made on the spot. No use is made of the coal by the +natives, nor did they seem to be aware of its nature. + +Of _the Petroleum_ {117} no use whatever is made, although we have +ample experience from its universal use by the Burmese, that it is a +valuable product both as affording light, and preserving in a very great +degree all wooden structures from rot and insects. The springs occur in +four different places, all close to the Puthar: of these three occur on +the low hill which bounds the Puthar to the southern side, and one on the +Puthar itself, at the foot of the range alluded to. The springs are +either solitary, as in that of the Puthar, or grouped, a number together; +the discharge varies extremely from a thin greenish aqueous fluid to a +bluish grey opaque one, of rather a thick consistence: the quantity +poured out by these latter springs is very considerable. On the surface +of all, but especially on these last, an oleaginous, highly inflammable +fluid collects in the form of a thin film. The jungle surrounding the +springs ceases abruptly, the ground around, and among them, being covered +with stunted grass and a few small herbaceous plants. Elephants and +large deer are frequent visitors to the springs; of the former, the +tracts are frequent, and they are sometimes shot here by the natives. + +_Vegetable Products_.--The jungles afford several kinds of bamboo, some +of which are of value; generally speaking the trees are not large, with +the exception of a gigantic Dipterocarpus, wood-oil or dammar tree; of +this particular tree I have seen specimens measuring 100 feet from the +base to the first branch. The wood is of no value, nor have I seen any +use made in Assam of the resinous secretion, which is in great vogue on +the Tenasserim Coast for the construction of torches, etc. + + +II. FROM BEESA LACOOM TO NAMTUSSEEK. + + +COUNTRY TRAVERSED FORMING PARTS OF THE NAGA RANGE OF HILLS, AND OF THE +SOUTHERN BOUNDARY OF THE VALLEY OF ASSAM: THE NORTHERN SIDE IS SUBJECT TO +BRITISH, THE SOUTHERN TO BURMESE CONTROL. + +1st. STAGE.--_Halting place_ in the jungle, at an elevation of 770 feet +above the sea. Direction SSE. Distance 12 miles, course over low hills +covered with dense jungle. + +2nd. _Darap Panee_.--Altitude 1029 feet. Direction SSE. Distance 12 +miles, passed over some difficult places; crossed the Darap twice before +we reached the halting place, course through very heavy jungle, except on +the summits of the higher hills, which are tolerably open. + +3rd. _Namtusseek_, {118} or Tusseek Panee, altitude 1413 feet. Direction +SSE. Distance 12 miles, country more open: summit of the hills covered +with grass and scattered trees. The highest hill surmounted was +certainly 1000 feet above our halting place. + +4th. Namtusseek, or Tusseek Panee, altitude (not observed). Direction +SSE. Distance 10 miles, course almost entirely up the bed of the river +over boulders, occasionally skirting the stream through heavy and wet +jungle. + +5th. _Yoomsan nullah_, near the foot of the Patkaye. Alt. 3026 feet; +direction SSE. Distance 4 miles. Course for a short time along the bed +of the Namtusseek, until we crossed a small stream, the Tukkakha: then +ascended a mountain, about 3500 feet high; on reaching the summit we +descended until we reached the halting place. + +6th. _Nam-maroan_, or Maroan-kha. {119a} Alt. 2500 feet. Direction +ESE. Distance 15 miles. Ascended until we reached the summit of the +Patkaye; the ascent was in some places very steep, and owing to the +unsettled state of the weather, very difficult. Reached the boundary +nullah, along which we proceeded for some time; we then commenced the +descent, which was steep, and continued so, until we reached the +Nam-maroan. The extreme elevation we reached was rather more than 5000 +feet. {119b} + +7th. _Nam-maroan_.--Altitude estimated 2000 feet. Direction ESE. +Distance 10 miles, course along the bed of the stream; ground difficult, +and much impeded by boulders. + +8th. _Nam-maroan_.--Altitude not taken. Direction ESE. Distance 7 +miles. Course the same, but of a less difficult nature. + +9th. _Khathung khioung_. {119c}--Altitude 1622 feet. Direction E. by +S. Distance 7 miles, course continues along the Nam-maroan, the whole +way: ground much less difficult. Passed close to a Singpho village of +two houses; some Puthars which bore traces of having once been cultivated +and inhabited occurred on this march. + +10th. _Khussee-khioung_.--Altitude 3516. Direction E. by S. Distance +13 miles, left almost immediately the Khathung Kioung, and commenced +ascending. Ascent in some places very steep and difficult, and continued +until we had reached an elevation of 5600 feet. The descent then +commenced, and continued until we reached the Khussee-khioung, passing +along for some distance the Natkaw-khioung. The descent was occasionally +difficult, owing to broken ground; tree jungle occurred almost throughout +the whole distance. + +11th. Kuttack Bhoom. {119d}--Altitude 3270. General direction S. +Distance 13 miles. Left the Khussee-khioung, but reached it again before +long. Continued to descend considerably, until we reached the Nam-thuga, +thence the descent increased considerably. Halted on an open grassy +spot, from which an extensive view of the valley of Hookhoom is obtained. + +12th. _Namtusseek_.--Altitude 1099 feet. General direction ESE. +Distance 10 miles. Descended from Kuttack Bhoom, until we reached the +Loonkharankha, then ascended considerably. The descent then recommenced, +until we reached the Namtusseek. Heavy jungle occurred throughout. Path +occasionally difficult, becoming as we approached the base of the range +very wet. We crossed several small mountain streams. + +_General features of the hills_.--The prevailing formation +appears to be sandstone, and connected with this we have rounded summits, +not attaining a great elevation, and a considerable depth of soil. The +lower ranges are throughout covered with heavy tree jungle. This becomes +excessively thick and wet along the water courses, which are of frequent +occurrence towards the base of the range, both on the northern and +southern sides. But from an elevation of 1000 feet to that of Yoomsan, a +great change for the better takes place on the northern face, the hills +being covered with clay, and generally not very high grass jungle, among +which trees are scattered. This character is particularly evident along +both sides of the valley drained by the Namtusseek of the northern side. +The Patkaye is wooded to its summit; the jungle on the south side being +much more humid than that on the northern. Indeed on this face of the +range, with the exception of the Puthars on the Nam-maroan, scarcely more +than two open spots exist, and both of these are of small extent. Of +these one exists at an elevation of 5500 feet, and one at Kuttack Bhoom. + +The paths although very often steep, are easy enough for coolies, except +during wet weather, when they become very slippery. With some degree of +preparation the worst places might be made passable for lightly loaded +elephants, and this would be facilitated by the soft nature of most of +the rocks. The most difficult marches are those which lie along the beds +of the streams, and these, it has been seen, are far the most numerous; +they are particularly difficult for elephants, the boulders affording a +very precarious footing to these weighty animals. The difficulty is much +increased by rain, when even coolies find considerable difficulty in +making any progress. Several elephants accompanied Major White as far as +the Darap Panee, and a small suwaree elephant, loaded with a light tent, +succeeded in reaching Yoomsan. The southern side of the range is +decidedly of a more difficult nature than the northern, and it is in +addition of greater extent: the highest point traversed is 5600 feet +above the level of the sea. The range might be traversed by a lightly +loaded active native in six days. + +_Streams_.--These all partake of the usual nature of mountain torrents; +they are all fordable during the cold weather, the principal ones being +crossed at the heads of the rapids. The boundary nullah is a mere +streamlet: it runs between two ridges of the Patkaye: its course being +about ESE. and WNW. Owing to the frequency of the streams and their +mountainous nature, I should imagine that this route is impracticable +during the rains. + +_Villages_.--Not a single village or house exists directly on the route. +One small Naga village is visible from the Namtusseek below Yoomsan, and +a detached hut is visible here and there on a high mountain close to, and +NE. of Yoomsan. On the Burmese side there is, as I have mentioned +before, a village consisting of two houses close to the route. This +village has lately been established by some Singphos from Nimbrung, +several marches to the eastward. + +_Population_.--I certainly did not see 100 Nagas throughout the time +passed in traversing these hills, although I am satisfied that every man +within a reasonable distance came into Camp in the hopes of sharing in +the extensive distribution of presents. From the appearance of the +country about Yoomsan, and the valley of the Namtusseek, I am inclined to +think that the population was at one time considerable. The openness of +the country, which is as I have previously said chiefly clothed with +grass, and the peculiar and generally imperfect aspect of the trees, can +only be accounted for, by supposing the country to have been extensively +cleared, particularly when it is remembered that the highest portions of +the range are thickly wooded. But allowing this supposition to be +correct, it is no proof, that the total population has been on the +decline, for we must take into account, the wandering nature of all hill +tribes. In forming an opinion of a hill population, which in all times +and places has, in this country at least, been found scanty, we must take +care not to confound the temporary huts, erected in khets, for the +purpose of protecting the cultivation, with actually inhabited houses; to +the former description I think the detached houses mentioned as being +visible from Yoomsan are to be referred. + +The Nagas, at least the men, for I saw no women, are a small, active, +large-legged race, with Tartar faces. They are divided into very many +tribes, each of which has some peculiarity of costume. Those I saw were +decidedly inferior to any of the other hill tribes with which I am +acquainted. Their clothing is miserable, the chief protection consisting +of a number of rings, made of rattan, which encircle the abdomen. They +are as usual excessively dirty, and much attached to the use of tobacco +and ardent spirits. Their wants are few, but even these are miserably +supplied. They entertain an unbounded fear of the Singphos, who appear +to make any use of them they think proper. Their only weapons are +spears, Singpho dhas and battle axes. + +The Singphos cannot be considered otherwise than as encroachers. +Invasions of these restless marauders appear not to have been uncommon up +to a late date. The remains of two stockades, in which they had +entrenched themselves were extant, one close to Yoomsan, the other on the +S. face of the Patkaye. I have before said that the puthars on the Nam- +maroan bore evidence of having been inhabited, and apparently to some +extent. But even during the stay of Major White on these hills, an +irruption of Singphos from Nimbrung had taken place, and had totally +unsettled the peace of the native inhabitants. Such things must be +expected to occur, particularly when it is well known that the Burmese, +the only power to which they are subjects, can exercise no authority over +the Singphos in any one direction, except when they have a large armed +force in the valley of Hookhoom. + +_Of the Capabilities_ of the country it would be vain to attempt +giving an opinion. Scarcely any cultivation was passed on the route. The +soil is generally deep, more or less yellow, and somewhat clayey; the +hollows having a thin superstratum of black mould. Taking the deserted +state of the country into account, this part of the Naga range is of +little importance, except as forming portion of a most natural and well +defined boundary, compared with other portions of the same range to the +westward. + +_Products_.--The principal mineral product is salt, an article which is +procured abundantly in some other more available points of the range. We +saw one small spring on the Namtusseek, from which supplies had been +lately taken. + +_Vegetable Products_.--Fine timber trees occur here and there. Oaks, +Magnolias and Chesnuts occur not uncommonly, the Magnolias being of these +in this range the most characteristic of elevation. The horse chesnut of +Assam, (Osculus Asamicus mihi) occurs on both sides of the range, but +does not ascend further than 3,000 feet. No Fir trees exist on the +route, nor is it probable that they exist on the range in this direction. +One of the most interesting plants is a new species of tea, which I +believe to be a genuine Thea; it is called Bun Fullup, or jungle tea, by +the Assamese, in contra-distinction to the true tea plant, which is +called Fullup. This species makes its appearance at an elevation of +about 1,000 feet, and is met with as high up as 4,000 feet. It attains +the size of a tree of 30 feet in height; it is used only as a medicine. +No real tea exists on this route; several plants were pointed out to me +as tea, but all were spurious instances. The higher portions of the +ranges have a flora approaching in many instances to that of northern +latitudes. As examples of this, it will be sufficient to allude, in +addition to the trees mentioned above, to the existence of two species of +Daphne, one of Barberry, several species of a genus nearly allied to the +Whortle Berries, a Violet, and several species of Smilacineae, to which +order the Lily of the Valley belongs. + +In concluding this part of my report, I may perhaps be permitted to +advert to the question of the possibility of transporting a body of armed +men into the Burmese dominions by this route. Although there is nothing +in the nature of this portion of the boundary which would render this +operation very difficult, yet considering the state of the adjoining +parts of Upper Assam, and that of Hookhoom, it becomes almost +impracticable. I allude to the extreme difficulty of procuring grain in +Upper Assam, in which, at least around Sadiya, annual scarcities are by +no means uncommon, and to the utter impossibility of drawing any supplies +from Hookhoom in its present miserable state. All the necessary supplies +would require to be drawn from Lower Assam, and for the transport of +these the scanty population of this extremity of the valley would by no +means be sufficient. Bearing on this point it must be remembered, that +from the 1st of April to the 1st November, these hills cannot be +traversed except by their native inhabitants, without incurring great +risk from the usual severe form of jungle fever. + + +III. FROM NAMTUSSEEK TO WULLABOOM. + + +COUNTRY TRAVERSED SUBJECT TO BURMESE AUTHORITY, FORMING GREATER PORTION +OF THE VALLEY OF HOOKHOONG, OR THE PAEENDWENG. + +March 1. _From Namtusseek to Nhempean_.--Direction E. Distance 18 +miles, crossed the Namtusseek, then passed through heavy tree jungle, and +subsequently over extensive grassy plains. + +2. _From Nhempean to Nidding_.--Direction SSE. Distance 4.5 +miles, course along the Namtoroan, thence up the Saxsaikha. + +3. _From Nidding to Kulleyang_.--Direction SSE. Distance 13 +miles, country covered either with tree or high grass jungle. Passed a +deserted village, Thilling Khet. + +4. _From Kulleyang to Isilone_.--Direction SW. Distance 10 miles, +country rather more open. Puthars are of common occurrence; passed a +small village, Damoon. + +5. _From Tsilone to Meinkhoong_.--Distance 17 miles, course at +first along the Namtunai, {124a} country open, consisting of grassy +plains; several nullahs occur. + +6. _From Meinkhoon to Wullabhoom_.--Direction SE. Distance 13 +miles. Course over plains intersected by tree jungle, subsequently up +the bed of the Nempyo-kha. + +_Nature of the Country_.--The valley of Hookhoong, or as the +Burmese call it, in allusion to its amber mines, Paeendweng, is of small +extent. Its greatest diameter is in the direction of E. to W., {124b} +its southern termination being within a few miles from Wullabhoom. It is +surrounded on all sides by hills, the highest of which are towards the +NE. and E.; none however would appear to exceed 6000 feet in height; and +from their appearance, I imagine they are wooded to their summits. The +lowest hills are those which form the southern boundary, and these +scarcely deserve the name. From Kuttack-bhoom a fine view of the valley +is obtained; it is here very narrow, and does not I should think exceed +25 miles in breadth. The features of the country are in a striking +degree similar to those of Upper Assam, that is, it presents a plain +surface intersected frequently by belts of jungle, the parts at the base +of the boundary hills being exclusively occupied by heavy jungle. The +general elevation of the plain above the sea may be estimated at about +1000 feet, so that it is several hundred feet above the level of Sadiya. +But although this is the case, the valley of Hookhoom undergoes the same +changes during the rainy season as Assam, the greater part being during +that period under water. + +_Of the Climate_ it is perhaps presumptuous to give any opinion; it +is however by no means so cold as that of Upper Assam. In April the +daily range of the thermometer was very considerable, from 60 degrees to +88 degrees. The rains set in later than on the northern side of the +Patkaye, and they are said to be much less severe. + +_The rivers_ are numerous, the principal one is the Namtunai, {125} +which subsequently assumes the name of Kyeendweng. This is in the places +I saw it a large, generally deep and sluggish stream, varying in breadth +from 270 to 350 yards. The next in size is the Namtoroan, which has more +of the character of a mountain stream; it is of considerable breadth +(opposite Nhempean it is 270 yards across,) and presents numerous rapids. +Both of these rivers are navigable for boats of some size. The other +rivers are small and insignificant; all fall into the Namtoroan or +Namtunai. + +_Villages_.--Of these the following were passed on the route:-- + +1. _Nhempean_, on the right bank of the Namtoroan, is situated on an +extensive open grassy plain, it is stockaded: it contains about 12 +houses, the river is here navigable for middling sized canoes. + +2. _Tubone_, on the same bank, but lower down, and within quarter of a +mile of Nhempean, it is of about the same size, and similarly stockaded. + +3. _Nidding_, on the left bank of the Saxsai-kha, about three-quarters +of a mile above its junction with the Namtoroan: it is a stockaded +village, and about the same size. + +4. _Calleyang_, on the Prong-kha contains about 8 houses: it is not +stockaded. + +5. _Lamoon_, on the Moneekha, is a very small village, containing four +or five houses: it is not stockaded. + +6. _Tsilone_, on the left bank of the Namtunai. This is the Dupha Gam's +village: it is of the ordinary size, and is stockaded in the usual +manner. + +7. _Meinkhoon_, on the Cadeekha, by which it is intersected; it consists +of two stockades, separated by the above stream; and contains about 25 +houses, none of which are however large. It is here that the first +Pagodas (Poongye houses) occur. The village is situated on an open +grassy plain of considerable extent. + +8. _Wullabhoom_, on the right bank of the Nemokapy, an insignificant +stream. This village is not stockaded; it contains about 10 houses, of +which several are of the Singpho structure. + +The Gam of this village was in expectation of an attack from the Dupha +people, and had in consequence erected a small square stockade for his +own use; he had however built it so small that he might easily be +dislodged by means of a long spear. + +In addition to these, there is a village called _Bone_, on the Namtoroan; +the path leading to this is crossed soon after leaving Namtusseek, and +another stockaded village, on the right bank of the Namtoroan, a little +below the mouth of the Saxsai-kha. + +None of the above villages are situated on strong positions. The +stockades are as usual of bamboo, and are but weak defences; the space +between the stockade and the outer palisades is covered with short +pointed bamboos, placed obliquely in the ground: these are called Panjahs +by the Assamese; they inflict very troublesome wounds, and are +universally employed by the Singphos. The interiors of the stockades are +dirty, the houses are built without order, and generally fill the +stockade completely, so that the people inside might be burnt out with +the greatest ease. The average number of houses in each of the above +villages, may be estimated at about 12, of these the largest occur at +Wullaboom. They are built on muchowns, and resemble in all respects +those of our Assam Singphos. They are generally thatched with grass +(Imperata cylindrica. {126} ) The larger kinds have invariably one end +unenclosed; under this portico, which is usually of some size, all the +domestic operations are carried on. The Dupha Gam's is not distinguished +above the rest in any one way. + +_Population_.--No country inhabited by sets of petty chieftains belonging +to different tribes, which are generally at enmity with each other, can +be populous; it is therefore with considerable surprise that I find it +stated that the number of houses in the north and eastern sides of the +valley is estimated at not less than 3000, which at the rate of 7 men to +one house, which is, considering the great size of very many Singpho +houses, rather underrated, would make the population of these portions of +the valley amount to 21,000 souls. The part of the valley which I have +traversed, and during which route 75 miles of ground were passed over, +does not present a single sign which, in the absence of direct evidence, +would lead one to suppose that it contained a considerable population. +During the before mentioned marches, I saw only four paths, crossing or +diverging from that which we followed. Of these, one _leads_, as I have +mentioned, to Bone, one to the hills on the NE., one to a Singpho +village, some miles to the south of our track, and the fourth diverged +from the path leading to the Amber mines through the village of a chief +called Tharapown Hhoung. The population on the above route of 75 miles, +would at the rate of 7 men to one house, and 12 houses to each village, +amount only to 840, but I think that 1,100 or 1,200 would be a fairer +estimate. From Kuttack-bhoom, as I have mentioned, a great portion of +the valley is distinctly seen, and nothing meets the eye but jungle, +broken here and there by the waters of the Namtunai: not a clearing is +even visible; instead of a population of 30,000, as has been stated I +should imagine that the whole valley of Hookhoom does not contain more +than 12,000. + +The above population consists almost entirely of Singphos and their +Assamese slaves, and these last form a considerable portion. This was +particularly evident at Wulla-khoon, where they certainly out-numbered +their masters. + +The Singphos of Hookhoong resemble exactly those located in Assam: they +are however less given to opium eating. They are of the same indolent +habits, and content themselves with cultivating sufficient grain to keep +themselves from starving. The women wear the Thumein, or Burmese dress, +a costume which is entirely unknown among the Singphos of Assam. The +most superior men I saw belonged to the Lupai tribe, from the east of the +Irrawaddi; they had come to Meinkhoon for the purpose of procuring amber. +In manners and dress they resembled the Shan-Chinese, they were provided +with firelocks, in the use of which they were certainly adroit. The +usual weapons of the Hookhoong Singphos are dhas and spears. I saw very +few muskets. + +The behaviour of these people was throughout civil, and perhaps friendly. +Their hatred of the Burmese is excessive, the visits of the armed forces +of this nation being most harassing and oppressive. They are sub-divided +into tribes, among whom there is but little unanimity. The Dupha Gam is +much disliked, as he is considered the cause of the visit of the Burmese. +His power has been much exaggerated; he is not capable of bringing 500 +men into the field. So unpopular was he, that it was reported to Mr. +Bayfield, that he was to be cut off immediately the Burmese force had +left the valley. + +In giving the foregoing low estimate of the population of the valley, I +believe I have taken into consideration every circumstance of importance. +The occurrence of several old burial places on the route, some of which +are of considerable extent, might be considered by some as a proof, that +the population has undergone a decrease; but I conceive that it is +sufficiently accounted for by the wandering habits of the people. + +_Capabilities_.--The greater part of the valley is well adapted for the +cultivation of rice, and as the soil is generally rich, approaching in +external characters to that of some parts of Upper Assam, particularly +Muttack, it is capable of supporting a large population. + +_Products_.--Of the mineral productions, the most remarkable is Amber, +for which the valley of Hookhoong has been long famous, and from the +existence of which it derives its Burmese name. The mines are situated +in low, wooded hills, from which they are distant between five and six +miles; of this distance the first three miles traverse the plain on which +Meinkhoong is situated. The pits now worked give occupation to about a +dozen people; they occur on the brow of a hill: they are square, and of +various depth, the deepest being about 40 feet, the diameter not +exceeding three feet; the workmen ascending and descending by placing +their feet in holes made in two faces of the square. No props are used +to prevent the sides of the pits from falling in, the tenacity of the +soil rendering this precaution unnecessary. The instruments used, are +small wooden shovels, a wooden crow-bar tipped with iron for displacing +the soil or breaking the rocks, baskets for removing the substances so +displaced, buckets made of the bark of trees {128} for removing the water +which is met with in the deepest pits, and rude levers similar to those +used in Madras for the purposes of irrigation, for carrying the soil, +etc. from the pits to the surface; these however are only used in the +deeper pits, a hooked bamboo answering the purpose in the shallower ones. + +The soil throughout the upper portion, and indeed for a depth of from 15 +to 20 feet, is clayey and red: the remainder consists of a greyish-black +carbonaceous earth, increasing in density with the depth, and being very +hard at a depth of 40 feet. The amber occurs in both these, the clue to +its existence being the presence of small masses of lignite. The +searching occupies but very little time, as the presence of the lignite +is readily ascertained; all I saw dug out occurred as small irregular +deposits; it did not appear to be abundant. The people appear to have no +guide for the selections of favourable spots on which to commence their +operations; but having once met with a good pit, they dig other pits all +around, and often within a distance of two feet from the first one sunk. + +I could not succeed in procuring a single fine specimen; indeed the +workmen denied having found any of value during the last six years! It +is an article in great request among the Chinese and Singphos; at the +pits, however, it is not high priced, and a first rate pair of ear-rings +are procurable at Meinkhoong for 5 tickals; in Assam 10 rupees are +occasionally given. Meinkhoong is annually visited by parties of Shan- +Chinese, for the purpose of procuring this mineral; the caravan at the +time I passed this village had returned, and I believe was met by Mr. +Bayfield. There was a small party of Lupai Singphos from the East of the +Irrawaddi, consisting of a Tsonba and six or seven followers still +waiting for a supply. + +The spot occupied by pits is considerable, but three-fourths of these are +no longer worked. Compared with the Serpentine mines, they are but of +small value. + +Both _Coal and Salt_ exist in the valley; the only indication of the +existence of the former I saw, was a mass of lignite in the bed of a +nullah between Tsilone and Meinkhoong. + +_Vegetable products_.--Fine timber trees, {129} which belong to the +same genus as the Saul, occur between Nhempean and Namtusseek, and +elsewhere towards the foot of the hills surrounding the valley. + +The Mulberry of Upper Assam occurs likewise, and the leaves supply with +food a species of silkworm. From the silk a coarse species of cloth is +manufactured, but the use of this appears to be very limited. + +Tea appears to be of uncommon occurrence. The only specimens I saw were +given me by Mr. Bayfield, they were procured from low hills some distance +from Shellingket. On this subject Mr. Bayfield made very frequent and +minute enquiries, and the result appears to be that the plant is of rare +occurrence; none exists towards or about the amber mines. + +The Room of Upper Assam (Ruellia Indigofera Mihi) is in use for dyeing +cloths, but not so much so as in Assam. + +The cultivated plants are of the ordinary kind; and the produce is just +sufficient to meet the wants of the inhabitants. Owing to the presence +of the Myoowoon's force, rice was scarce during my visit; the price was +seven tickals a basket, each of which contains about 30 days' supply for +one man. + +The domestic animals are of the ordinary description: fowls forming the +only poultry. But on this subject it is unnecessary to enlarge, as the +habits and manners of the people are precisely the same as those of the +Assamese Singphos. + + +IV. FROM WULLABHOOM TO MOGOUNG. + + +COUNTRY TRAVERSED FORMING CONSIDERABLE PORTION OF THE MOGOUNG VALLEY, +THROUGHOUT SUBJECT TO BURMESE AUTHORITY. + +March 1. _Halted_ on a small stream, a tributary of the Mogoung +river.--Direction nearly S. distance 22 miles, course at first along the +Namphyet, thence over low hills, forming part of the S. boundary of the +valley of Hookhoong. + +2. _Halted_ on the Mogoung river.--Direction S. distance 22 miles, over +similar low hills until we reached the Mogoung river after a march of +four hours, soon descending into its bed, which we followed. + +3. _Mogoung_ river.--Direction S. distance 13 miles, course along the +bed of the river. + +4. _Mogoung_ river.---Direction SE. distance 14 miles, course continued +along the bed of the river. + +5. _Kamein_.--Direction SSE. distance 14 miles: on starting left the +Mogoung river: course throughout over fine open high plains intersected +by belts of jungle. + +6. _From Kamein to Mogoung_.--Direction SSE. Distance 25 miles, +course over high open plains and dry woods. Many nullahs occurred on the +route: crossed the Mogoung river opposite to Kamein. + +_Nature of the Country_.--The low hills which are passed before +reaching the Mogoung river, are covered with tree jungle, but they afford +scarcely any thing of interest; they are here and there intersected by +small plains, covered with the usual grasses. {130} The country +traversed while following the Mogoung river, is most uninteresting, the +road following almost entirely the sandy bed of the river, the banks of +which are either covered with grass or tree jungle. On leaving this most +tortuous river, the face of the country improved and became very +picturesque, presenting almost exclusively fine high, and rather +extensive plains covered with grass, and partially with trees, while here +and there they are intersected by strips of dry tree jungle. Low hills +are visible frequently, especially to the eastward. + +_Villages and Towns_. + +1. _Kamein_, on the right bank of the Mogoung river, at the junction of +the Endaw-khioung, consists of two stockades, one on a small hill the +other at the foot. Both together contain about 32 houses. The +inhabitants are Shans. It is a place of some consequence, as it is on +the route from Mogoung to the Serpentine mines. From Kamein, Shewe Down +Gyee, a conspicuous mountain, so called, bears east. + +2. _Mogoung_, on the right bank of the river of the same name, just +below the junction to the Namyeen Khioung, contains rather fewer than 300 +houses. Although it contains so few houses it is a place of considerable +extent. It is surrounded by the remains of a timber stockade, similar in +construction to those of Burmah proper. The houses are mostly small, and +I speak within bounds when I say, that there is not a single one that +bears the stamp of respectability. There is a bazaar, but nothing good +is procurable in it. Tea and sugar-candy are rare and high priced. Pork +is plentiful. Mogoung is situated in a plain of some extent, this plain +is surrounded in almost every direction by hills, all of which, with the +exception of Shewe Down Gyee, are low: the nearest of these are about +three miles off. + +The inhabitants are mostly Shans, there are some Assamese, the chief of +whom is a relation of Chundra Kant, the ex-Rajah of Assam. The best +street in the town, though one of small extent, is that occupied by the +resident Chinese, none of whom however are natives of China proper. Of +this people I should say there are barely 60 in Mogoung, and, judging +from their houses, none of which are of brick, I should say they are very +inferior to their fellow-countrymen residing in Bamo. + +During our stay in Mogoung, which was protracted owing to the disturbed +state of the country, the population was much increased by Shan-Chinese +returning from the Serpentine mines; and as there was a considerable +number of boats engaged by them for the transportation of the Serpentine, +the town looked busier than it otherwise would have done. + +The Mogoung, river is here about 100 yards broad, but it is much +subdivided by sand banks: it is navigable for moderate sized boats a +considerable distance above the town. In the upper part of the course +this river abounds with fish to an unprecedented degree; of these the +most numerous is the Bokhar of Assam, and of this I have seen shoals of +immense extent. + +The Namyeen is a small and shallow stream. Although from the extent of +the stockade Mogoung has evidently in former periods (during the Shan +dynasty) been of extent and consequence, it is at present a mean and +paltry town. It derives any little consequence it possesses from being +the rendezvous of the Shan-Chinese, who flock here annually for procuring +Serpentine. + +The most valuable product of the Mogoung district is the Serpentine; the +mines producing which, we visited from Kamein. The marches are as +follows, + +1. _From Kamein to Endawkhioung_.--Direction SSW. Distance 10 +miles, course over low hills covered with jungle, with intervening grassy +valleys of small extent; crossed the Isee Een nullah. + +2. _Halted on a plain_, on a patch of ground lately under +cultivation. Direction SSW. Distance 14 miles. Course over a similar +tract of country; continued for some time close to the Endawkhioung; +crossed several nullahs. + +3. _Halted in the jungle_.--Direction WNW. Distance 17 miles. +Country the same: we changed our course on reaching the path which leads +to Kionkseik, a Singpho village, diverging to the N.; halted within a +short distance of Kuwa Bhoom. + +4. _Reached the mines_.--Direction WNW. Distance 10 miles, course +over small plains and through jungle until we reached Kuwa Bhoom, which +we ascended in a WNW. direction, extreme altitude attained 2,799 feet. +The descent was steep, varied by one or two steep ascents of some hundred +feet in height. On nearing the base of the range we continued through +heavy and wet jungle, until we arrived at the mines. + +These celebrated Serpentine {132} mines occupy a valley of somewhat semi- +circular form, and bounded on all sides by thickly wooded hills of no +great height. To the north the valley passes off into a ravine, down +which a small streamlet that drains the valley escapes, and along this, +at a distance of two or three miles, another spot of ground affording +Serpentine is said to occur. The valley is small: its greatest diameter, +which is from E. to W. being about three-quarters of a mile, and its +smallest breadth varying from 460 to 600 or 700 yards. + +The whole of the valley, which appears formerly to have been occupied by +rounded hillocks, presents a confused appearance, being dug up in every +direction, and in the most indiscriminate way; no steps being taken to +remove the earth, etc. that have been thrown up in various places during +the excavations. Nothing in fact like a pit or a shaft exists, nor is +there any thing to repay one for the tediousness of the march from +Kamein. + +The stone is found in the form of more or less rounded boulders mixed +with other boulders of various rocks and sizes imbedded in brick-coloured +yellow or nearly orange-coloured clay, which forms the soil of the +valley, and which is of considerable depth. The excavations vary much in +form, some resembling trenches; none exceed 20 feet in depth. The +workmen have no mark by which to distinguish at sight the Serpentine from +the other boulders; to effect this, fracture is resorted to, and this +they accomplish, I believe, by means of fire. I did not see the manner +in which they work, or the tools they employ, all the Shans having left +for Kamein, as the season had already been over for some days. No good +specimens were procurable. The workmen reside in the valley, drawing +their supplies from Kioukseik. + +On our road to the mines we met daily, and especially on the last march, +parties of Shan-Chinese, Burmese, and a few Singphos on their return. Of +these in all Mr. Bayfield counted about 1,100, of whom about 700 were +Shan-Chinese: these were accompanied by ponies, which they ordinarily use +as beasts of burden. The larger blocks of stone were carried by four or +five men, on bamboo frames; the smaller, but which still are of +considerable size, on ingenious frames which rest on the nape of the +coolies' neck; the frame has two long arms which the bearer grasps in his +hand, and which enables him to relieve himself of his burden, and +re-assume it without much sacrifice of labour, as he props his load +against a tree, which is then raised by the legs of the frame some height +from the ground. The valley we visited affords I believe the greatest +quantity of the stone, which is said to be annually diminishing, neither +are pieces of the finest sort so often procurable as they were formerly +wont to be. + +The path to the mines is on the whole good; it is choked up here and +there by jungle, and the occurrence of one or two marshy places +contribute to render it more difficult. It bears ample evidences of +being a great thoroughfare. + +The greater part of the stone procured is removed in the large masses, to +Kioukseik, and thence by water by the aid of the Endawkhioung to Mogoung. +At this place duties are levied upon it. Hence almost the whole is taken +to Topo by water. From this place the Shan-Chinese carry it to their own +country on ponies. + +From the stone various ornaments are made; from the inferior kind, +bangles, cups, etc. and from the superior, which is found in small +portions generally within the larger masses, rings, etc. The stone is, I +am informed by Mr. Bayfield, cut by means of twisted copper wire. The +price of the inferior kind is high. + +It is from these mines that the province of Mogoung derives its +importance; so much so, that its revenue is said to exceed that of any +other Burman Province. The sum derived from the Serpentine alone is +stated to be occasionally as high as 40,000 Rs. per annum. + +Owing to the avidity with which this product is sought after by the +Chinese, it is highly desirable to ascertain whether it exists in Assam, +which indeed is probably the case. I believe it is reported to exist +near Beesa; at any rate, blood-stone is found in this extremity of the +valley of Assam, and this, in Chinese eyes, is of considerable value. If +the Serpentine is found, specimens should be sent to Mogoung. As the +Shan-Chinese are reported to be a most penurious race, a small reduction +in the price below that of the Burmese, would suffice to divert the +current of the trade into Assam. Another interesting product, although +of no value, exists in the shape of an Alkaline spring on the Sapiya +Khioung, which hence derives its name. The water of this spring bubbles +up sparingly and quietly from under the rocky bed of the above mountain +torrent, it is quite clear, of a decided and pure alkaline taste: it is +used by the natives for the purpose of washing, and it answers this +remarkably well. Of this interesting spring Mr. Bayfield took specimens +for analysis. + +Salt is procurable within a distance of three or four days from +Kioukseik. + +_Vegetable products_.--Teak, and some of it is of a fine description, +occurs both on the route between the Mogoung river and Kamein, as well as +between Kamein and the Serpentine mines. The natives do not however +appear to cut it, probably owing to the want of water carriage. Fine +timber trees, nearly allied to the Saul, likewise occur on the road to +the mines. + +I met with the tea but once. This occurred among the low hills dividing +the Mogoung district from the valley of Hookhoong, close to the Dupai- +beng-kheoung, or Tea tree Nullah. There was no difference in the +specimens brought to me from the plant of Assam, with the exception that +the leaves were even larger than in the plant alluded to; it did not +occur in abundance. It exists I believe, in another place on this route, +and among the same hills, but I did not succeed in procuring specimens. +Throughout both routes scarcely any cultivation was seen. Between the +Mogoung river and Mogoung town considerable portions of some low hills to +the East, presented the appearance of clearings. It must however be +observed, that the appearance of clearings is a most fallacious ground on +which to form an estimate of the population; 1st, owing to the habits of +a nomadic population; 2ndly, because a spot once cleared, keeps up the +appearance of a clearing for a long time; and 3rdly, because some +particular spots are, from some local cause or other, exclusively +inhabited by grasses, the prevalence of which will at a little distance +always give one the idea of cultivation. + +_Population_.--This in the somewhat extensive tract of the Mogoung +district traversed, is very scanty. That of Mogoung and suburbs may be +estimated at about 1,600, and that of Kamein at 250. In addition to +these places, I have to mention a small Singpho village of three or four +houses, seen on a range of hills during our first march towards the +mines, and bearing about WNW., and Kioukseik. This latter place we +visited on our return from the mines, it is a stockaded village, +containing 16 houses, and about 120 souls. It is situated about 100 +yards from a small stream, the Nam Teen: it is inhabited by Singphos: it +is about a mile from the divergence of the road to the mines, and bears +from this spot nearly due south. During the season of operations at the +mines it is a place of some consequence, as all the necessary supplies of +grain are procured from it. At the time of our visit, there was a good +sized bazaar along the Nam Teen, which was likewise a good deal crowded +by boats. + +The neighbouring hills are inhabited here and there by Kukkeens, the most +troublesome perhaps of all mountainous tribes; but there are some other +villages about the lake, called the Endawgyee. We had an opportunity of +viewing from a distance the above lake on our return from the mines. From +an open spot on the eastern face of Kuwa Bhoom, it bore nearly due south, +and was estimated as being 15 miles distant. We could not distinguish +its outline, but we saw enough to satisfy us that it was a large body of +water. It is situated in an extensive plain near a range of hills, part +of which form portion of its banks. From the same spot we could see +Shewe Down Gyee, the large range from which the Namtunai takes its +course, bearing nearly due east, and at an estimated distance of 35 +miles; the situation of the mines is therefore nearly due east from +Kamein. + + +V. FROM MOGOUNG TO AVA. + + +THE WHOLE OF THE DISTANCE BETWEEN THE TWO ABOVE PLACES WAS PERFORMED BY +WATER. + +The time occupied in descending the Mogoung river was three days. This +river is exceedingly tortuous, generally a good deal subdivided, and its +channels are in many places shallow. The chief obstacle it presents to +navigation consists in rapids, which commence below Tapan, and continue +for some distance; these rapids are not severe, but are rendered +difficult by the presence of rocks, many of large size. These rapids +commence immediately the river in its course approaches some low ranges +of hills. Boats of considerable size however manage to reach Mogoung; +they ascend the severer rapids in channels made along the sides of the +river, by removing and piling up on either side the boulders which form +great part of the bed of the river in these places. The descent is +managed in the same way, the speed of the boat being retarded by the crew +exerting their united force in an opposite direction. On leaving the +proximity of the hills, the river resumes its natural and rather slow +character, and towards its mouth there is scarcely any stream at all. The +channels are much impeded by stumps of trees. The country through which +the Mogoung river passes is very uninteresting, and almost exclusively +jungle, either tree or high grass. + +Only one village, Tapan, is met with; this is small, and is situated on +the right bank; with the exception of its river face it is stockaded. At +this place the Shan-Chinese leave the river, striking off in an E. +direction towards the Irrawaddi, which they reach in one day. We +observed a small Kukkeen village on some hills near Tapan; with these +exceptions no sign of inhabitants occurred until we reached the +Irrawaddi. On the hills above alluded to, the bitter Tea is reported to +exist. The Mogoung river at its mouth is about 70 yards across. The +Irrawaddi even at the mouth of the Mogoung river, and at a distance of +nearly 800 miles from the sea, keeps up its magnificent character. At +this point it is 900 or 1,000 yards across; when we reached it, it had +risen considerably, and the appearance of this vast sheet of water was +really grand. Its characters are very different from the Ganges and +Burrumpooter, its waters being much more confined to one bed, and +comparatively speaking becoming seldom spread out. Generally speaking it +is deep and the stream is not violent. It appears to me to afford every +facility for navigation; in one or two places troublesome shallows are +met with, and in several places the channel near the banks is impeded by +rocks. It is only in the upper defile, or Kioukdweng, that the +navigation is during the rises of the river dangerous, and at times +impracticable. On our reaching Tsenbo, which is about 12 miles below the +junction of the Mogoung river with the Irrawaddi, the river continued to +rise in a most rapid degree, Mr. Bayfield ascertaining by measurement +that it rose 16 inches an hour. We were consequently compelled to push +on, as we were informed that the next day the defile would be impassable. +The Kioukdweng alluded to commences about two miles below Tsenbo, the +river becoming constricted from 1000 to 150 yards. The rush of water was +great, and was rendered fierce by rocks which exist in the midst of the +river. Still further within the defile the difficulties were increased; +at one place the whole of the enormous body of water rushes through a +passage, and it is the only one, certainly not exceeding 50 yards in +width. The passage of this was really fearful, for on clearing it we +were encountered by strong eddies, backwaters and whirlpools, which +rendered the boat nearly unmanageable. These scenes continued, varied +every now and then by an expanded and consequently more tranquil stream, +until a gorge is passed, well known by the name of the "Elephant and +Cow," two rocks which are fancifully supposed to resemble the above named +animals; the defile then becomes much wider, and the waters flow in a +tranquil and rather sluggish manner. The depth of the river in this +defile is, as may be supposed, immense; Mr. Bayfield ascertained during +his passage up, at a season when the waters were low, that in many places +no bottom was to be found at a depth of 45 fathoms. The necessity of +this enormous depth is at once evident, and is pointed out by the +configuration of the banks, which are in many places sheer precipices. +Two other defiles exist between Bamo and Ava, of these the middle or +second is the shortest, in both the stream flows sluggishly, and there is +no impediment whatever to navigation. In these the depth is great, but +owing to their greater width, much less so than in the upper. + +The temperature of the waters of the Irrawaddi is as usually obtains, +except during the rises of the river caused by the melting of snow, when +it is higher than usual. + +_Tributaries of the Irrawaddi between Mogoung river and_ +_Ava_. + +The number of tributaries even to Rangoon is unprecedentedly small: this +tends to increase the astonishment with which one regards this +magnificent river. + +The rivers that fall into the Irrawaddi within the above distance are, + +1st. The Mogoung river. + +2nd. Tapien Khioung, above Bamo. + +3rd. Shewe Lee Khioung. + +These are about the same size, and only discharge a considerable quantity +of water during the rainy season. The Shewe Lee at its mouth, is between +5 and 600 yards wide, but only an inconsiderable portion of this is +occupied by water, and this to no depth. + +The great branch from which the Irrawaddi derives its vast supply of +water still remains to be discovered, and will probably be found to be +the Shoomaee Kha. It is evident, at any rate, that the great body of +water comes from the eastward, for between the Mogoung river and +Borkhamtee, in which country Captain Wilcox visited the Irrawaddi, and +where it was found to be of no great size, no considerable branch finds +its way from the Westward: neither are the hills which intervene between +these points, of such height as to afford large supplies of water. + +On the whole it is, I think, probable, that the Irrawaddi is an outlet +for some great river, which drains an extensive tract of country; for it +appears to me that if all its waters are poured in by mountain streams, a +tract of country extensive beyond all analogy, will be required for the +supply of such a vast body of water. + +In addition to the above three rivers, few nullahs exist, but these are +scarcely worthy of consideration. + +_Nature of the country_.--From the mouth of the Mogoung river +nearly to Tsenbo the country is flat, and the banks wooded or covered +with grass to the brink. The range of hills which form the upper +Kioukdweng there commence, and continue for a distance of 16 or 20 miles, +during the whole of which they form the banks of the river. These hills +are scantily covered with trees, most of which are in addition stunted. +The vegetation within the maximum high water mark consists of a few +scraggy shrubs. The rocks composing these hills are principally +serpentine, which within the influence of the water is of a dark sombre +brown colour. Limestone occurs occasionally. + +From this Kioukdweng to the second, the entrance of which (coming from +above) is at Tsenkan, the features of the country are of the ordinary +alluvial description, and the river is a good deal spread out and +subdivided by islands, covered with moderate sized grasses. On leaving +the second Kioukdweng the same scenery occurs, the banks are generally +tolerably high, often gravelly or clayey. About Tsagaiya, a few miles +below the mouth of the Shewe Lee, low hills approach the river, and they +continue along one or both banks {139} at variable distance until one +reaches Ava. These hills are all covered with a partial and stunted +vegetation, chiefly of thorny shrubs, and present uniformly a rugged +raviny and barren appearance. The scenery of the river is in many places +highly picturesque, and in the upper Kioukdweng and portion of the +second, where there is a remarkable cliff of about 3,000 feet in height, +bold and even grand. + +_Villages and Towns_.--These although numerous compared with the +almost deserted tracts hitherto passed, are by no means so much so as to +give an idea of even a moderate population. From the mouth of the +Mogoung river to the Kioukdweng there are several villages, but all are +small, mean, and insignificant. Strange to say, they are defenceless, +although the neighbouring Kukkeens are dangerous and cruel neighbours. +Nothing can be more calculated to shew the weakness of the Burmese +government than the fact, that the most mischievous and frequent +aggressions of these hill tribes always go unpunished, although a short +time after an attack the very band by whom it has been made will enter +even large towns to make purchases, perhaps with money the produce of +their robberies. + +The upper Kioukdweng has a very scanty population, consisting of a +distinct race of people called Phoons: who are sub-divided into two +tribes, the greater and lesser Phoons. About 12 villages occur in this +defile, and Mr. Bayfield says that the population is almost entirely +confined to the banks of the river: all these villages are small. + +Between the defile and Bamo a good number of villages occur, the largest +of which does not contain more than 100 houses, the generality are small +and mean. Bamo, which is a place of celebrity, and is perhaps the third +town in Burmah, is situated on the left bank of the river, which is here, +including the two islands which subdivide it into three channels, about a +mile and a quarter in width; the channel on which Bamo is situated is the +principal one. The town occupies rather a high bank of yellow clay, +along which it extends for rather more than a mile, its extreme breadth +being perhaps 350 yards. It is surrounded by a timber stockade, the +outer palisades being well pangoed; the defences had just undergone +repair owing to an expected attack from the Kukkeens. It contains within +the stockade rather less than 600 houses, (the precise number was +ascertained personally by Mr. Bayfield,) and including the suburbs, which +consist of two small villages at the northern end, one at the southern, +and one occupied by Assamese at the eastern, it contains about 750 +houses. These are generally of the usual poor and mean description; +indeed, not even excepting the Governor's house, there is not a good +Burman or Shan house in the place. One street which occupies a portion +of the river bank, is inhabited by Chinese, and contains about 100 +houses; these are built of unburnt brick, and have a peculiar blueish +appearance; none are of any size. The best building in Bamo is the +Chinese place of worship. Those occupied by the Burmese have the usual +form. The country adjoining Bamo is flat, dry, and I should think +unproductive; it is intersected by low swampy ravines, one or two of +which extend into the town. To the south there is an extensive marsh, +partially used for rice-cultivation. + +The population of Bamo including the suburbs, may be estimated at about +4500, of whom 4 or 500 are Chinese. The governor is a bigoted Burman, of +disagreeable manners; he expends much money in the erection of Pagodas, +while he leaves the streets, roads and bridges by which the ravines are +passed, in a ruinous and disgraceful state. + +The Bazaar of Bamo is generally well supplied: British piece goods and +woollen cloths are procurable, but at a high price: the show of Chinese +manufactures is much better, particularly on the arrival of a caravan; +considerable quantities of Tea are likewise brought in the shape of flat +cakes, of the size of a dessert plate, and about two inches thick. This +tea is of the black sort, and although very inferior to the Chinese case +teas, is a far better article than that of Pollong. In addition to this, +warm jackets lined with fur, straw hats, silk robes, skull-caps, and +sugar-candy are procurable; pork of course is plentiful, and is +excessively fat; grain, vegetables and fish are plentiful. On the whole +Bamo is a busy and rather flourishing place: it derives its consequence +entirely from its being a great emporium of trade with the Chinese, who +come here annually in large numbers; for the accommodation of these +people and their caravans, two or three squares, fenced in with bamboos, +are allotted. + +The principal article of Burmese export is cotton, and this I believe is +produced for the most part lower down the Irrawaddi. + +The climate of Bamo is in April dry and sultry: the range of the +thermometer being from 66 degrees or 68 degrees to 94 degrees or 96 +degrees. North-westers are of common occurrence in this month, and are +frequently of extreme severity. I saw very little cultivation about +Bamo, some of the ravines alluded to had lately been under rice-culture; +the chief part of the cultivation for vegetables, etc. is confined to the +sandy islands, which occur here and there. + +Of the numerous villages passed between Bamo and Ava not one deserves +especial notice, nor is there one, with the exception of Umeerapoora, the +former capital, which contains 500 houses. Shewegyoo, which formerly +occupied a considerable extent of the left bank near the south opening of +the second Kioukdweng had been burnt by the orders of the Monein +Myoowoon, on account of their having supplied troops to the emissaries of +the Tharawaddi. Kioukgyee, the residence of the above governor, had a +short time before our arrival been invested by a force in the interest of +the Tharawaddi, but had been repulsed. The governor was to proceed with +the whole population, amounting to several hundred souls, to Bamo, to +join his forces with those of the Bamo governor. This part of the +country was most unsettled and almost deserted. On reaching Katha the +state of the country was more tranquil, all the people below this point +having espoused the cause of the Tharawaddi. Katha contains 200 houses, +and has a rather respectable bazaar; it is well situated, and has the +most eligible site in my opinion, of all the towns hitherto seen. The +most remarkable object is a noble Kioung, or Mosque, built by the head- +man of the place; this is one of the finest now existing in Burma. + +The only other large place is Sheenmaga, about a day's journey from Ava. +This is said to contain 1,000 houses. An extensive fire had lately +occurred here. I counted 200 houses, and judging from the extent of the +ruins, I should say it might probably have numbered between 4 and 500. +There are several villages contiguous to this, and I think that the +district immediately contiguous is more populous than any part hitherto +seen. + +During the above portion of the journey our halts were as follows:-- + + 1. Tapaw. + 2. Mogoung river. + 3. Mogoung river. + 4. Lemar, in the upper Kioukdweng. + 5. Bamo. + 6. Tsenkan. + 7. Kioukgyee. + 8. Katha. + 9. Tsagaya. +10. Tagoung. +11. Male, at the entrance of the lower Kioukdweng. +12. Kabuet, in the lower Kioukdweng. +13. Male. +14. Menghoon. +15. Ava. + +This distance down the Irrawaddi may, in a fast boat, be performed in ten +days, but owing to the disturbed state of the country we were compelled +to avail ourselves of the first opportunity that offered to enable us to +reach Ava; in addition the proper number of boatmen was not procurable, +everybody being afraid of approaching the capital even a few miles. + +The chief product I saw was Teak, of this there were large rafts at +Tsenkan and elsewhere. This tree seems to abound in the hills forming +the NE. boundaries of Burmah. I did not, however, see any of large size. + +Tea is found on hills to the east of Bamo, and at a distance of one day's +journey from that place. Through the kindness of Mr. Bayfield, I was +enabled to procure specimens; the leaves were decidedly less coarse, as +well as smaller, than those of the Assamese plants, and they occurred +both serrated and entire. No use is made of the wild plants in this +direction, and the Chinese at Bamo, asserted that it was good for +nothing. It must be remembered, however, that none of them had seen the +plant cultivated in China. Indeed the only real Chinaman we saw, was one +at Kioukgyee, serving the Myoowoon as a carpenter: this man had been to +England twice, and talked a little English. + +Cotton is, I was informed, extensively cultivated. + +But the most valuable product is the Ruby, which is procured from hills +to the eastward of Tsenbo, and which are, I believe, visible from the +opposite town, Mala. From the same place and to the SE., low hills are +visible, from which all the marble in extensive use for the carving of +images, is obtained; this marble has been pronounced by competent +authority to be of first-rate quality. + +_Population_.--This must be considered as scanty. From a list of towns +and villages, observed by Captain Hannay, between Ava and Mogoung +inclusive, I estimated the population at 100,000 souls, but from this one- +third at least must be deducted. In this estimate of the number of +houses, Captain Hannay was probably guided, either by the Burmese census, +or by the statement of the writer who accompanied him. From the numbers +given by this officer, in almost every case one-third, and occasionally +one-half, or even more, must be deducted: as instances, I may cite his +statement of the number of houses in Bamo and Katha. + +In almost every case Mr. Bayfield counted all the houses, and in all +doubtful cases, I counted them also at his request, so that I am enabled +to speak with great confidence on this point. + +As a collateral proof of the scanty population of this extensive portion +of the Burmese territory, I may allude to the fact that Bamo, the third +place in Burmah, and the emporium of great part of an extensive Chinese +trade, contains only even at the rate of seven souls to each house, which +is two too many, 4,250 inhabitants. The capital may be adduced as an +additional instance; for including the extensive suburbs, no one +estimated it as having a larger population than 100,000. It must be +remembered also, that there is no doubt, but that the banks of the +Irrawaddi are more populous than any other portion of the kingdom. + +Throughout the above rather long journey, we were treated, with one +exception, tolerably well; indeed our delays arose from the +unwillingness, real or pretended, of the authorities to forward us on +while the country remained so unsettled. The headman of Kamein on our +first arrival was extremely civil, but on our return after he had +received news of the revolt of the Tharawaddi, he behaved with great +insolence, and actually drew his dha on Mr. Bayfield. It must be +remembered however that he had been brought to task by the Mogoung +authorities for having, as it was said, accepted of a douceur for +allowing us to proceed to the serpentine mines. + +The general idea entertained by the people through whose countries we +passed, was, that we had been sent to report upon the country prior to +its being taken under British protection. Of the existence of this idea, +Mr. Bayfield met with some striking proofs. + +On reaching Katha our troubles ceased, and these, excepting at Kamein and +Mogoung, only arose from the evident wish of the natives to keep at a +distance from us, and not to interfere in one way or the other. At +Mogoung I consider it probable that we should have been detained had it +not been for the firm conduct of Mr. Bayfield, and his great knowledge of +the Burmese character. At this place the authority of the Myoowoon, who +was absent in Hookhoong, was totally disregarded, and his brother the +Myoowoah, was in confinement, the Shan Matgyee having espoused the cause +of the prince Tharawaddi. + +_Conclusion_.--For the brief and rapid manner in which I have run through +this last section of my report, as well as for having forsaken the +arrangement adopted in the previous sections, I trust I shall be excused. +In the first place, this portion of the route had been previously +travelled over by Captain Hannay and by Mr. Bayfield, by whom much +additional information will be laid before Government; and in the second +place, I would advert to the hurried nature of this part of our journey, +and to the disturbed state of the country. For similar reasons I have +only drawn up this account to the period of my reaching Ava. It will be +at once seen that the information might have been much more extensive, +especially as regards the revenues of the districts, but I abstained from +interfering with subjects which were in every respect within the province +of Mr. Bayfield; and the minute and accurate manner in which this officer +performed the duties consigned to him, reconciled me at once to the +secondary nature of the objects which were left for my examination. + +I subjoin a tabular view of the marches, this will not agree entirely +with those given in the body of the report, as one or two of those were +unavoidably short. I give the table to shew the shortest period in which +the journey could be accomplished by an European without constantly +overfatiguing himself. If the total distance be compared with an +estimate made from charts, all of which however are imperfect so far as +the country between Meinkhoong and Beesa is concerned, the tortuousness +of our course will be at once evident. + +Marches. Miles + + 1 From Sadya to Noa Dehing Mookh, 6 + 2 To Rangagurreh, 12 + 3 To Moodoa Mookh, 12 + 4 To Kidding, 9 + 5 To Namroop Puthar, 12 + 6 To Beesa Lacoom, 12 + 7 To Halting place in the hills, 12 + 8 To Darap Panee, 12 + 9 To the Namtuseek, 12 +10 Namtuseek, 10 +11 To the Boundary Nullah, 12 +12 To the Namaroan, 15 +13 Namaroan, 13 +14 To Khathung Khioung, 15 +15 To Khussee Khioung, 13 +16 To Kuttack Bhoom, 13 +17 To Namtuseek, 10 +18 To Nhempean, 18 +19 To Kulleyang, 17 +20 To Tsilone, 10 +21 To Meinkhoong, 17 +22 To Wullabhoom, 13 +23 To Halting place towards the + Mogoung river, 22 +24 Mogoung river, 15 +25 Ditto ditto, 13 +26 Ditto ditto, 14 +27 Kamein, {145} 14 +28 Mogoung, 25 + --- +Total number of miles, 378 + +The remaining distance performed in + boats may be thus estimated down the + Mogoung river to the Irrawaddi, 45 + +From the confluence of the Mogoung + river down the Irrawaddi to Ava, 240 + --- + 663 + --- + +Allowing twelve days for the performance of this last portion, which +however is too short a time, the entire distance may be performed in +forty days. + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + + +_Notes made on descending the Irrawaddi from Ava to_ +_Rangoon_. + +_28th May_.--I left Ava and halted about two miles above Menboo. + +_29th May_.--Continuing the journey, the country appears flat with +occasionally low hills as about Kioukloloing, no large villages occur; +the river is sub-divided by churs; no large grasses to be seen, and the +vegetation is arid. Bombax is the chief tree: Mudar and Zizyphus occur: +Guilandina, Crotolaria a large Acanthacea, and a Jasminioides shrub are +the most common plants: Borassus is abundant: Fici occur about villages. +The banks are generally sandy, not high. + +Yandebo. This is a wretched village; barren plains bounded to the east +by barren rather elevated hills; base jungly. Observed the tree under +which the treaty was signed with the Burmese at the close of the late +war. It is an ordinary mango, near a pagoda on a plain with two large +fig trees. I counted to-day 28 boats sailing up between this and our +halting place of yesterday, mostly large praows. The banks present few +trees, are flat, barren, and from being occasionally overflowed, adapted +to paddy. + +Halted at Meengian, which is a middling sized village on the left bank, +about a mile below Tarof myoo. + +_30th May_.--I made an excursion into the country which is dry, barren, +and sandy, with a descent towards the banks of the river. Zizyphus, +Acacia, Euphorbia 20 feet high, Calotropis, Capparis 2, etc., occur all +the same as before, only one Ehretiacea appears to be new. Hares are +very common. Likewise red and painted Partridges, and Quail. Carthamus +and Tobacco are cultivated, specially the latter at Meengian. The most +common tree here, is Urticea procera? which has always a peculiar +appearance. The country towards Pukoko becomes prettier, the left bank +wooded, and the ground sloped very gradually up to Kionksouk, which is +barren, and 2,000 feet high at least, with the slopes covered with +jungle. + +_31st May_.--Passed Pagam, a straggling town of some size, famous for +its numerous old pagodas of all sorts. The surface of the country is +raviny, and the vegetation continues precisely the same. Below Pagam, +the range of low hills becomes very barren: altogether the country is +very uninteresting. + +The low range of hills on the right bank is nearly destitute of +vegetation. The hills present a curious appearance of ridges, sometimes +looking like walls. The country continues the same. + +Halted opposite Yowa. + +_June 1st_.--A low range of hillocks here occurs on the left bank, and +as in other places, consisting of sandstone with stunted and scanty +vegetation. + +Tselow is a large place on the left bank, the river is here much spread +out, with large sand banks. The hills on the right bank present the same +features; passed Pukangnai, a large village on the left bank. Passed +Pukkoko, Pagam, Tselow, etc., the hills about this last place abound with +Prionites. Strong wind prevails. + +_June 2nd_.--Yeanangeown 10 A.M. The country continues exactly similar +to that already observed--hillocks intersected by ravines, loose +sandstone, very barren in appearance. Vegetation is the same, but more +stunted; fossil wood is common, especially in the bottom of ravines. +{147} Of fossils very few were seen, but more are to be procured by +digging. The most common trees are Zizyphus, Acacia, and a Capparis: the +most common grass Aristida. Arrived at Yeanangeown, a busy place judging +from the number of boats. + +Wind less strong. At 2 P.M. stopped at Wengma-thoat, where Zizyphus is +extremely common. Euphorbia seems rather disappearing. + +The plants met with at the halting place six miles above Yeanang, were +Euphorbia, Olax, Zizyphus, Mimosa, Carissa, Ximenia, Prionites, +Calotropis, Gymnema, Capparis pandurata et altera species arborea, +Murraya rare, Gossypium frutex 6-8-petal, Xanthophyllum blue, petiolis +alatis of Tagoung, Sidae sp. On the right bank flat churs continue +covered with a small Saccharum. Vegetation more abundant and greener +than before. Ficus again occurs and Stravadium occasionally. + +Passed 5 P.M. Memboo at a large village on right bank, containing perhaps +200 houses. The river below this runs between two ranges of low hills, +similar in every respect to those already passed. A Kukkeen woman was +observed, who appeared to have a blue face, looking perfectly frightful. + +_June 3rd_.--Maguay. Reached this place at 8 P.M. It is on the left +bank. It is a place of some importance. Many boats lying in the stream. +The country, is of the same dry, arid description: the banks of the river +are however lower than previously observed. + +Passed Esthaiya, a small village on the right bank, at 6 A.M. Adelia +nereifolia continues common in some places. + +Dhebalar, Meemgoon, two villages nearly opposite, neither of these +villages large. Ficus and Bombax are common; no Euphorbia was observed. + +We are now evidently getting within the influence of the Monsoon, as the +vegetation is more green. + +Passed Mellun, a village on the right bank. The hills on either side of +the river are higher and better wooded than before observed, and the +river itself is not more than 350 yards broad. + +Observed gold washers below Meegyoung-yea, where they find gold, silver, +and rubies by washing the sands. Here Bombax is very common on the right +bank. + +Passed Thembounwa, a village on the left bank. The country presents the +same ridges of singular hills formed of veins of slaty, tabular, brown +rock, this is very conspicuous at Thembounwa. The hills on the left bank +above Meeaday are very barren; the banks rocky. + +Halted at Khayoo, just above Meeaday, at 7 P.M. + +_June 4th_.--Passed Teiyet myoo, a village on the right bank, which +seems to have some cotton trade; the houses along the bank are wretched +in appearance. Meeaday was passed during a squall, I was thus prevented +from making any observation on it. Teiyet is the largest place I have +seen. The country we are now passing is very slightly undulated, soil +light and sandy. Fine tamarind trees occur, also Terminalia. In +addition to the usual plants a Lagerstraemia occurs, which attains the +size of a middling tree, and a frutescent Hypericum, Aristolochia, and +Hedyotis occur. Strong south wind prevails so that we can make no +progress whatever, I therefore went into the jungle and found Stravadium, +a fine Bignonia foliis pinnatis, floribus maximis, fere spitham. +infundibulif. subbilabiat. lacinus crispatis: one or two Acanthaceae, two +Gramineae, two Vandelliae, Bonnaya, Herpestes, Monniera, Rumex, Dentella, +three or four Cyperaceae, Ammannia, Crotalaria on sand banks, Triga in +woods and Bauhinia, Dioscoria, a pretty herbaceous perennial Ardisia, +etc. We have not made two miles since breakfasting at Teiyet, about four +hours ago. Convolvulus pileatus and dwarf bamboo are common on the low +hills. The Lagerstraemia has petals none, or minute squamiform. + +Reached Caman Myoo, a village on the right bank, at 7 P.M. + +_June 5th_.--Many boats are here, owing to there being an excellent +place of anchorage in still water, protected by an Island, but there are +not many houses in the village. + +Below, the river again becomes confined between hills, but above this it +expands. These hills are rather bare: no Euphorbia exists, and the whole +vegetation is changed. + +Now passing hills, chiefly covered with bamboos. Bignonia crispa occurs, +and a Scilloid plant out of flower is common. Aroideum, similar to that +of Katha, is common, a new species is likewise found, but it is a +Roxburghia, and rare. + +Stravadium has very minute stipules, the habit and gemmation is that of +Ternstraemiaceae, and it perhaps connects this order with Myrtaceae; +Punica from this is certainly distinct, owing praeter alia to its valvate +calyx. Soneratia belongs I suspect to Lythrarieae, connecting it with +Myrtaceae. + +The Roxburghia above alluded to, is a distinct genus. + +Planta quam juniorem tantum vidi vex spithamaea. Radices plurimae +filiformes, cortice crassa, tenacissima obfibras foliiformas ad vaginam +redacta, superiora petiolique purpureo-brunnei, vernatione involutiva, +flores solitarii in axillis foliorum et vaginarum, albi carneo tincti. +Pedicellis subtereti apice, articulatis, monoicis. + +Perianth sub-companulat, 4-sepalum, sepalis lanceolato-oblongis a medio +reflexis, estivat imbricat. + +Stam. 4. sepalis alterna, filam subanth. magna, subsagittat, connectivo +magno supra in apiculum longum product, et inter loculos in carinam +(carneam) purpuream, loculi angustissimi, viridis, alabastrus lutescens. +Pollen viridescens. Faemin flos, infimus, unum tantum vidi sepala +longiora herbacea, stam. 0. + +Ovarium compressum, fol. carpell () {149}, stylus conicus, ovar viridis, +stigma sub-simplex. + +Char. gen. Flores monoici Per. 4, sepalum, stam. 4. + +Arrived at Prome on the left bank, the stockade seemed to be out of +repair: the water front of the stockade is about 800 yards in length: it +extends about 200 yards back from the river, and beyond the hill on which +are pagodas: opposite the pagodas it is of brick, and beyond this a long +line of houses or huts extends; there is no appearance of improvement +going on. The hills on the opposite side present the same features, +trees just commencing to leaf; every thing indicates a temporary +sterility caused by the long hot season. Above this place we passed a +village extending 500 yards along the river. Cocoa trees thrive well +here, and are not uncommon. Borassus continues. + +Shwe Doung, 6 miles from Prome, is as large as Prome itself: the country +beyond this expands; no hills were seen near this part of the river; some +way below Palmyras are common; Bombax, Ficus, and Tamarind are the chief +trees. + +Passed Reedan, a straggling place on the left bank. A range of hills +occur, extending close along the right bank, and which, as well as the +distant ones, are wooded to the summit, as the hills are on the Malay +Coast. + +Passed Thengyee, a village on the right bank. Hills at this place +approach close to the river for a short way, but soon cease. They are +covered with Teak, scarped, and many images are carved in the recesses of +the rock, apparently sandstone. Thengyee, just below this, seems to be a +great place for boat-building. + +Halted at Talownmo at 7.5 P.M. + +_June 6th_.--At this place there are no hills near the river, which is +sub-divided by islands. Painted partridge continues. Kioungee; palmyra +trees continue in plenty. Talipat never seen dead, but with its +inflorescence. Passed Meavion and Runaown. Palmyras here occur: great +numbers of boats passing up and down. Traffic considerable. + +Moneu, a village on the left bank, at which many boats were observed. + +The river banks throughout are today flat and alluvial, and those of the +Islands are covered with moderate sized grasses; extreme banks jungly. +Palmyras continue. + +Halted at Thendan, on left bank. + +_June 7th_.--The country here has the usual alluvial features; few +villages are seen, but as the river is sub-divided, one must not judge +from this and the consequent barren appearance, that the country is less +populated than above. + +Stravadium is common in the woods: on the banks, noticed Acrostichum +difforme; Epiphytical Orchideae are common. Urticea fructibus late +obcordatis. + +Passed Tharawa, a village on the left bank, and Theenmaga myoo on the +right bank, which seems a large place; here Pandanus commences. Palmyras +were seen, together with a few Areca. At 4 P.M. I saw at Zulone myoo, +for the first time during the descent, a Crocodile, which is an +indication of our approach to the coast. A Bombax is now common on some +of the islands, the banks are now generally grassy. + +This Bombax is apparently the same as that of Assam; the river here +resembles the B. pootur about Chykwar. + +Halted at a small village about six miles above Donai-byoo near Dollong. + +_June 8th_.--Donai-byoo, 7 A.M. This is a large place, on the right +bank, having a good many boats. + +Niown Sheedouk on the left bank, three miles below Donai-byoo, is +likewise a large place. + +Tides exist here, and their influence extends upwards as far as Zulone, +that is to say, the stream is much diminished during the flood. Entered +Rangoon river at 1 P.M.: it is here not more than 200 yards broad. +Nioungdoa is a middling sized village, situated about a mile from the +mouth or entrance, at which were observed plenty of boats. The banks of +the river are here grassy; tall Saccharum and Arundo occur, but not so +large as those of Assam. The river a small way below the mouth is not +more than 100 yards wide. Bombax and Ficus are the most common trees: +Lagerstraemia grandiflora forms a little tree jungle: Butea likewise +occurs. + +Passed Tsamaloukde, a small village on the right bank. + +_June 9th_.--Halted at 6 this morning at a small village on the left +bank. The features of the country now become paludosal. Acanthus +ilicifolius, Cynometra acacisides, Cyperaceae, Soneralia acida, +Avicennia, Stravadium, Croton malvaefolium are very common, Creni sp. +Caesalpinia, and a leguminous tree, fructibus 1-spermis, drupaceis, +Webera, Premna, Cissi sp. potius _Vitis_, Clerodendri sp. Heritiera +fomes, Flagellaria indica, Hibisci species populneae affinis, Arundo, +Ambrosinia 2 species. + +Country open, low, and quite flat, admirable for rice cultivation. + +Crinoid giganteum, Excaecaria, Agallocha, no Rhizophores, Ipomaea +floribus maximis, hypocrateriform, albis, foliis cordatis. Soneratia +apetala less common, but becomes more so as we approach Rangoon, it is an +elegant tree with pendulous branchlets. Heritiera is very common and +conspicuous when in flower, it is then of a yellow brown tint; +Acrostichum aureum, Calamus, and Lomaria scandens occur. + + + +CHAPTER IX. + + +_Journal towards Assam and to Bootan--contains notes on_ +_distribution of Plants_. + +Left Calcutta a second time on the 31st August 1837, arrived at Serampore +on the 1st September, and spent the day with the Voights. + +_September 3rd_.--Continue on the Hooghly: paddy cultivation prevails +and Crotalaria juncea; this last is sown broadcast in low places, but not +quite so low as paddy. Bengallees are but slovenly husbandmen; grass, +etc. collected by them in small cocks, and covered with a small thatch, +which answers its purpose as well as a narrow brimmed hat would answer +that of an umbrella. Broken earthenware not unfrequently visible in the +banks, in some places at the depth of 3-4 feet. Unsettled weather, with +gusts of strong wind from the S. and SSE. Thermometer 78 degrees 82'. +The usual Calcutta birds continue, jackdaw-like crow, Falco +pondicherainus, two common mainas, Ardea indica, and the white one. + +Came on the Ganges about noon; on passing Chobda had the horror of seeing +the bodies of burning Hindoos, the friends who are present at these +funeral rites turning them about with sticks, so as to give each side its +share of fire. The women bathe in their ordinary dresses: these though +ample are of fine cotton fabric, so that when wet more of the shape is +disclosed than is deemed desirable in Europe, but exposure of person has +no repugnant effect on Asiatics. + +The Matabangah is a small, very tortuous, stream, not exceeding 70 yards +in breadth: the banks are low, either wooded to the edge or covered with +grass, such as Cynodon. Excellent pasturage prevails, as indicated by +the number of cows. + +_Monday 4th_.--Wind SE. There are not many villages in the vicinity of +the river; passed yesterday Kranighat, where there is a toll, from which +officers on duty are exempt; but as no precautions seem to be taken to +keep the river clear, no toll whatever should be taken: although the +latter is high, the receipts must be very small. Passed Arskally about +noon, the banks are composed occasionally of pure sand, and the country +becomes more open, with very little jungle, much indigo cultivation +occurs. Thermometer 78 degrees 85'. + +_Tuesday_, _5th_.--Wind SW. The country continues the same as before. At +2 P.M., we reached Krishnapoor. + +_Wednesday_, _6th_.--8 A.M. We left the Matabangah river and entered a +less tortuous nullah. The country continues the same. Much indigo +cultivation still occurs. We saw yesterday evening a large herd of cows +swim across the Matabangah; they were led by a bull, who kept turning +round every now and then to see whether his convoy was near him. Today I +saw a rustic returning from his labours, with his plough thrown easily +across his shoulders; to a strong Englishman the feat of walking home +with such a plough, cattle, and all would not be very difficult. Indigo +is cut about a foot from the ground, then tied in bundles. Water for +steeping it in is raised from the rivers by something like chair-buckets, +only the buckets are represented by flat pieces of wood, the whole is +turned on an axle by the tread of men; the water is carried upon an +inclined narrow plane; the machine answers its purpose very well, and the +natives work it with great dexterity. At 5 P.M., we came on a stream 100 +yards wide, down which we proceeded. + +_Thursday_, _7th_.--The country continues much the same. Of birds the +black and white peewit is not uncommon;--cormorants, etc. also occur. +P.M. Thermometer 90 degrees. + +_Friday_, _8th_.--The country is more low and more sub-divided by rivers +than before. Abundance of indigo. Pumps also used, as before observed, +for raising water. Passed Moodoo Kully at 5 P.M., and left its river for +a small nullah. Indigo abundant on all sides throughout the day's +journey. + +_Saturday_, _9th_.--Continue in this nullah. Country wooded. Phaenix +sylvestris very abundant: Areca Catechu also becoming abundant. A good +deal of cultivation occurs, mottled chiefly with sugar-cane and +vegetables. The habits of the black and white kingfisher, Alcedo rudis, +are different from those of the other Indian species: it never perches, +choosing rather the ground to rest upon: it builds in banks: takes its +prey by striking it from a height of 20 feet or thereabouts, previously +fluttering or hovering over it. The size and figure of this bird when +resting on the ground, resembles the two common Indian Terns. + +Palms, contrary to what might be supposed from the nature of these +plants, can put forth additional buds;--this is exemplified in phaenix +sylvestris, the stems of which are deeply and alternately notched by the +natives for procuring toddy. When this is carried to a great extent, the +tree either dies or a new apex is formed laterally. The old notches, as +might be expected, at length, become much obliterated. It is from the +study of such palms that much light will be thrown on the growth of +monocotyledonous stems. The vegetation of jheels is now obviously +commencing. Pistia stratioles, Nymphaea, Potamogeton, Potamochloa, +Oplismenus stagninus, and Villarsia occur. Reached Furreedpore at 7 P.M. + +_Sunday_, _10th_.--Came on the Paddo, an immense stream 1.5 miles wide, +with a very strong current, about a mile to the East of Furreedpore. +Lagerstraemia Regina here occurs. + +_Monday_, _11th_.--The country is become much lower since leaving +Furreedpore, and is inundated during the height of the rains. The +peculiar vegetation of jheels predominant; that of the jungle continues +much the same. Plhugoor continues plentiful. No palmyras. Mangoes +plentiful, but small. Passed a deserted Roman Catholic Chapel, and +Priest's house. White-winged long-nailed water-hens becoming plentiful. + +_Tuesday_, _12th_.--The country abounds more in jheels: in many places +nothing is visible but water, in which huge plains of floating grasses +occur. The villages are very numerous, and occupy in fact almost every +spot of ground not subject ordinarily to inundation. Damasonium Indicum, +Nymphaea pubescens occur in profusion. The grass which exists in such +vast quantities is, I believe, Oplismenus stagninus. The water of these +jheels is clear, black when deep, which it often is to a great extent. + +_Wednesday_, _13th_.--Reached Dacca about 2 P.M.: it is a large and +populous place. The numerous grass of the jheels is sown there: it is +the red bearded _dhan_ or paddy grass: of this vast quantities are cut +for fodder, for, the whole face of the country being overflowed, it +follows that the cattle are throughout the rains kept in stalls. + +_Thursday_, _14th_.--Left about noon, and proceeded down the Dacca river +about 5 miles, then diverged into a narrow creek running nearly south. +Along this were observed fine specimens of tamarind trees. Stravadium in +abundance. Sonninia scandens, and Mango, both in abundance. Passed at 5 +P.M. Neerangunge, a large native town, and below it Luckepoor. A vast +expanse of water appeared near this, viz., the Megna. A good deal of +native shipping occurs, consisting of brigs: great quantities of rice +being exported from both places. Pelicans I observed here to roost in +trees. + +[View in the jheels: p154.jpg] + +Friday, 15th.--In the midst of jheels: the whole face of the country is +covered with water several feet deep. Vast quantities of Oplismenus +stagninus still occur. + +_Saturday_, _16th_.--Still in jheels. The same features continue. The +country is still very populous, all the more elevated spots having +villages. Oplismenus stagninus still prevails in vast quantities. + +_Sunday_, _17th_.--Jheels in every direction:--nothing indeed seen but +water, with occasional grassy or reedy, and elevated spots occupied by +villages:--here and there a round-headed tree springing apparently out of +the water. Hills visible to the east. Cormorants, Ciconia nudiceps, +paddy-birds, the common white ones with black feet, are abundant, and +associate in flocks: there is one very nearly allied to this, which is +solitary, having black feet with yellow toes. The boats of this district +are very simple, something like a Bengal _dingy_ reversed, but they are +sharp in the bows and ought to be fast; their only mode of progression is +to be pushed along by means of poles. There appears to be a great number +of Mussulmans, who would here seem to form the majority of the +population. Strong winds from the south interrupt our progress. + +_Monday_, _18th_.--Delayed by bad weather. + +_Tuesday_, _19th_.--Continued to pass through same kind of country, but +less jheelly. The Cook boat was left behind on the 17th in a squall, and +has not come up yet, so that I dine with the boatmen. + +The black and white long-toed water-hen continues plentiful: when alarmed +by kites, etc. it pursues them uttering a low mournful scream, until it +has succeeded in getting its enemy off to some distance; it then returns, +I suppose to its young; otherwise its cry is something like the mewing of +a cat, or rather a low hollow moan. The hills are plainly visible to- +day, lying towards the north. + +The males of the white and black water-hen have tails something like +those of a pheasant. There are two other species: one that is found on +the Tenasserim coast; the other is much larger,--the size, of a large +domestic fowl: one of the sexes, has red wattles on its head. The white +and black one is far the most common; it feeds apparently, in flocks: the +Maulmain one is the least common. These with Ardea Indica, the white, +black-toed, yellow-beaked Ardea, Ciconia nudiceps a small brown _chat_?, +Pica vagabunda, are the birds of the jheels or rather the dry spots in +them. I saw yesterday a flock of the black Ibis, flying _in a_ +_triangle_ (>) _without a base_, the party was headed by one of the +white paddy-birds! Villages have become very numerous, and the +population abundant and flourishing. The cattle are, as I have said, +stalled and fed with paddy grass, quantities of boats being employed for +its conveyance. Oplismenus stagninus appears less common about here. + +_Thursday_, _21st_.--Still among jheels; our progress is necessarily very +slow; we are indeed scarcely moving, there being no tracking ground: +jheels occur in every direction, although the hills are not 15 miles +distant. Pelicans with white and black marked wings occur, together with +the slate-colored eagle with white tail, barred at tip with black; it is +common in the low wooded places surrounded by jheels. Black-bellied Tern +occurs, but not that of Assam. + +_Friday_, _22nd_.--Arundo and two species of Saccharum occur, among which +S. spontaneum, is very common and of large size. We reached the Soorma +river about 12 o'clock, 3 or 4 miles above Mr. Inglis's house. + +I arrived at Chattuc on the 21st, which place I left for Pundoa the +following day. There are no mountains of this name as would seem from +the habitat of some plants given in Roxburgh's Flora Indica. The +mountains therein called Pundoa are the Khasya or Cossiah range; Pundoa, +is the name of a village called by the natives Puddoa. The jheels are +for a great part under cultivation. The paddy cultivation is of two +kinds; it is either sown in the jheels just at the commencement of the +inundation, or it is sown on higher portions, and then transplanted into +the jheels. Jarool, Lagerstraemia Regina is the chief timber, it comes +from Kachar; it is a dear and not a durable wood. + +Dalbergia bracteata, first appears, on low hills about Chattuc; there is +also a Grimmia here on the river banks. + +Porpoises are often seen in the Soorma; alligators or crocodiles, very +rarely. + +Jheels continue nearly to the foot of the mountains; these last are not +wooded more than half way up; the remaining wood being confined to +ravines, the ridges appearing as if covered with grass. Here and there, +scarped amphitheatres are visible, down which many fine cascades may be +seen to fall. + +Arrived at Mr. Inglis's Bungalow at Pundoa about 3 P.M., and here +regulated my thermometers; temperature of boiling water taken with the +large thermometer 210.5 degrees, by means of the one in wooden case 210.5 +degrees, temperature of the air 92.5 degrees, red case thermometer +indicated the boiling point at 206 degrees!! nor would the mercury rise +higher. + +_Saturday_, _23rd_.--Commenced the ascent, from Terya Ghat. Up to which +point the country is perfectly flat low and wet, covered for a great part +with gigantic Sacchara; among which partridges are common. Osbeckia +nepalensis, Marlea begonifolia, Gouania, Bignonia Indica, a Panax, +Byttneria, Hedysarum gyrans, Pueraia, Mimosa stipulacea, a very large +Rottboellia, Bauheniae 2, Bombax, Tetranthera arborea, Grewia sepiaria +may all be observed. On the Terya river among stones, and where it is a +pure mountain stream Eugenia salicifolia, as in the Upper Kioukdweng, +between Terya and the foot of the hills occurs; Alstonia, Ophioxylon, +Trophis aspera, Urtica naucleiflora, Varecae sp. Impatiens in abundance, +oranges in groves occur; at the foot Cryptophragmium venustum; rather +higher, Argostemma, and Neckera are common; AEschynanthus fulgens, jack +and sooparee commonly cultivated. Then Oxalis sensitiva, a small tender +Lycopodium; pine-apples, Pogonatherum crinitum; Gordonia soon commences, +probably at 400 feet. Polytrichum aloides appears on banks with +Gordonia; Eurya commences above the first cascade. Choripetalum, +Modecca, Sonerila about two-thirds up to Mahadeb, and Commelina, C. +bengalensis, and Anatherum muricatum continue to Mahadeb, as also +Andropogon acicularis, the Impatiens, etc. No change takes place, in +fact the vegetation being all tropical. Up to this place thick tree +jungle continues; the ridges sometimes are covered with grass, either +Saccharum, Anthistiria arundinacea or Manisuris; scarcely any oaks occur. +Euonymus occurs at Mahadeb. Beyond Mahadeb the scene becomes changed +especially after surmounting the first ridge, the face of the hills is +covered with grasses, interspersed with rocks; the clumps of wooded +vegetation being small, irregular, and composed of barren looking stunted +trees. + +Above this ridge the country puts on the appearance of a table land. At +Mahadeb, Staurogyne, Ruellia Neesiana, and Cryptophragmium are common, a +little above these is a species of Zalacca; Impatiens bracteata is very +common from near the foot to beyond Mahadeb; but it becomes small and +disappears before Moosmai is reached. Cymbidium bambusifolium commences +600 feet above Mahadeb. Linum trigynum commences at Mahadeb; Scutellaria +a little above, but I have found this at the foot. + +Dianella is found 1,000 feet above Mahadeb, as also Camellia candata; +Plantago, and Eriocaulon 2 sp. appear about 500 feet above Mahadeb; and +continue to Churra. Randia, the common one, is found up to 4,000 feet. +Cinchona gratissima appears at Moosmai. The first Viburnum, also occurs +here. Impatiens graminifolia a little lower. Salomonia, which appears +half way to Mahadeb, continues to Moosmai and Churra, but is stunted. + +Vaccinium, Ceratostemma, Crotalaria Hoveoides, Gnaphalia appear towards +Moosmai. Wendlandia at Moosmai. Ruellia persicaefolia straggles a +little lower than these. Smithia commences at Moosmai; Pandanus also; +this is excessively common on hills to the left, towards the caves. +Dipsacus commences above Moosmai. + +_Monday_, _25th_.--Churra is situated in a plain surrounded in every +direction by low rounded hills, except to the E. and SE., on which side +there is a deep ravine, the whole plateau rising considerably towards the +north, in the direction of Churra itself. Ravines exist here and there; +it is along these, and the water-courses, that the only woody vegetation +is to be found. The rest of the surface is clothed with grasses, of +which a number of species exist, they are chiefly Andropogoneae. Two or +three Osbeckias exist; a Tradescantia (T. septem clavata) covers certain +patches with its bright blue flowers. Three species of Impatiens, two +with bright pink flowers are common. Spathoglottis, and Anthogonum occur +on the flat rocks, which frequently prevail; Arundinaria is seen every +where as well as a Smithia? with lotus-like blossoms. With regard to +birds, the Motacilla or water-wagtails are seen at Churra and at Pundoa, +are generally of yellow colour in place of white. + +The woody vegetation consists of Berberis, Viburnum, Bucklandia, Cleyera +floribus fragrantis, petalis sepalis oppositis, Myrsine and many others, +too numerous indeed to mention. + +The woods, towards Churra, assume that rounded and very determinate form, +which is seen so commonly in some parts of England, Bucks for instance. +None of the trees arrive to any great size. The generality are low, +rounded, and stunted. It is in these, that Quercus, Viburnum, and +Pandanus may be seen growing side by side. + +_October 4th_.--Took the height of the station, which I make to be +3,921 feet; temperature 74 degrees; water boiled at 205 degrees; in the +small metal thermometer 198 degrees! centigrade 97 degrees; large metal +205.25 degrees; wooden scale 204 degrees. + +_October 5th_.--Left for Surureem. On the first height on which the +village is situated, a Potentilla is to be found, and this becomes more +abundant as we continue to ascend. The next European form that appears, +is Fragaria, the height of which may be estimated at 4,200 feet, this too +becomes more common as we ascend; Caryota may be seen, or at least, a +palm tree, in ravines as high as 4,000 feet; Daucus appears at 4,300 feet +in grassy plains; Prunella at about the same, Gerardia at 4,500 feet; +Gaultheria and an Impatiens with very small yellow flowers at 4,800 feet, +as well as Othonna. + +With the exception of these, the vegetation is much the same as that +about Churra: but the Balsams of that place disappear almost towards +Surureem, as well as the Tradescantia 7-clavata. Plants which are not in +flower about Churra, are found towards Surureem in perfection. + +After the first considerable ascent is surmounted, and which is probably +4,750 feet, the country becomes more barren, the grass more scanty and +less luxuriant. Spathoglottis, and Anthogonium disappear; Xyris +continues in abundance, likewise Eriocaulons, especially the middling- +sized one; Bucklandia becomes more common and more developed; a +frutescent Salix commences at 4,800 feet, as well as a Gramen Avenaceum +vel Bromoideum. + +Surureem is a small village, 100 feet above the rude bungalow, provided +for the few travellers who pass this way; close to it is to be found +Zanthoxylum and Hemiphragma, which last commences at Moosmai. The simple +leaved Rubus of Churra, petalis minutis carneis, has ceased; a trifoliate +one foliis cordato-rotundatis, existing instead. Most of the grasses +continue, but all are comparatively of small stature. Two new +Andropogonoids make their appearance: of Compositae, a Tussilaginoid and +a stout Senecionidea, the former not uncommon about Churra, but out of +flower. Salomonia ceased. + +The height of Surureem I calculate at 4,978 feet; temperature 65 degrees +Fahr.; of centigrade 19 degrees; water boiled at 95.5 degrees of +centigrade; 203 degrees Fahr., wooden scale; 203.5 degrees large metal; +small ditto 195.5 degrees! Temperature of the air at 6 P.M., 63 degrees. + +_October 6th_.--Temperature 6 A.M., 63.5 degrees. Left for Moflong. +There is a considerable rise at first, then the country is tolerably +level until one reaches the Kala Panee, the descent to this is about 7 or +800 feet, thence the rise is great, with a corresponding descent to the +Boga Panee, which I estimate at 4,457 feet, and which is certainly 1,000 +feet below the highest ground passed on this side of the Kala Panee. +After crossing this torrent, by means of a miserably unsteady wooden +bridge, the ascent is very steep for about 1,200 feet, thence there is a +small descent to Moflong, which I find to be 5,485 feet. Most of the +plants continue. Tradescantia and Commelina become much less common +towards the Kala Panee, as well as the Impatiens of Churra, but their +place is supplied by others. Along 100 yards of the Kala Panee, upwards +of four species may be met with. Polygonum (Bistorta) becomes more +common on the higher ground between Surureem and Kala Panee, thence +diminishing in size and frequency. Polygonum Rheoides becomes abundant +towards a height of 5,200 feet, when Pyrus, an apple-like species, and +Spiraeas make their appearance at 5,300 feet. On the Kala Panee, +Bucklandia re-appears, but thence would seem to cease: on the brow of the +ascent from this, Pedicularis appears in abundance among grasses, with it +_Sphacele_? At the same height, which cannot be less than 5,400 feet, +Carduus or Cnicus, appears. Solidago commences in the valley of the Kala +Panee, but becomes more abundant at higher elevations. Sanguisorba +appears at 5,400 feet, but in small quantities, and at this height +Anisadenia recommences. Epilobium appears at 5,300 feet, continues at +the same elevation to Moflong, where it is common. On the descent to the +Boga Panee, an European form of Euphorbia appears at 5,000 feet with +Viola Patrinia and a Galium asperum. Hieracium appears at about the same +height. Cuscuta is very common from 5 to 5,500 feet, continuing even to +Moflong; the scales of this genus are, it appears to me, mere appendages +of the filaments, and not due to non-development or suppression of parts. +Erythrina, which is found about Churra, is seen on the road to Kala +Panee, apparently quite wild; altitude 5,200 feet: it recommences at +Moflong, where it is common about villages, but never exceeds the size of +a small tree. Commelina bengalensis? continues throughout here and +there, and may be found even about Moflong. + +The most striking change occurs, however, in the Pines, which, although +of small stature, exist in abundance on the north side of the Boga Panee; +so far as may be judged of by the naked eye, they disappear on this side, +about a mile to the westward, very few cross the torrent, and few indeed +are found 100 feet above its bed on the south side. I took the height of +the bed of this torrent. Temperature of the air 72 degrees; water boiled +at 204 degrees; which gives the height about 4,400 feet. Between +Surureem and the Boga Panee, many new plants occur; grasses continue, as +also at Moflong, the prevailing feature. The principal new ones occur on +the descent, consisting of two large Andropogons, one closely allied to +A. schaeranthus and a tall Anthistiria habitu A. arundinacea; a beautiful +Saccharum occurs here and there, especially before reaching the Kala +Panee and the Gramina Bromoidea, which is the only really European form. +On the Kala Panee, scarcely any Podostemon griffithia; except a few small +ones, very few signs or appearance of fresh plants. Along the Boga +Panee, among the wet rocks which form its banks, a fine Parnassia; a +trailing Arbutoidea; a very European looking Quercus; Anesadenia +pubescens, a Circaea, Campanulae 2, AEschynomene, Crotalaria, a Serissa?; +this last continuing to Moflong, a fine Osbeckia, and Gnaphalium +aereonitus may likewise be found. On the ascent, few new plants occur; +Rhinanthoidea, Osbeckia nepalensis, and capitata, Conyzoidea, Dipsacus, +Gnaphalium foliis linearibus, Crotolaria hoveoides, Colutoidea, Pteris +(Aquilina.) Scutellaria, Potentilla, Smilax occur at 5,000 feet with +Plantago, Fragaria and Artemisia, as well as lower down. The most +striking plant is a Delphinium, which, at about 5,000 feet, occurs +stunted; this is common about Moflong. + +Agrimonia range from 3,500 to 5,500 feet, where they are very common, +Hypericum three sorts occur, H. myrtifolium commences, about Churra, re- +occurs here and there on the road to Moflong, about which it is very +common. H. ovalifolium, is more elevational, scarcely descending below +5,000 feet; H. japonicum is found from towards Mahadeb to Moflong; H. +fimbriatum foliis decussatis, scarcely below 5,000 feet; Leucas galea +brunneo villosa on grassy hills is common towards Boga Panee, and +continues as high as Moflong. + +Quercus commences about Mahadeb: a new species occurs on the edge of +woods towards the Kala Panee; altitude 5,000 feet; it nearly commences +with two Rhododendra, which, at least the arborescent one, arrives at +perfection on the Kala Panee. + +Viburna continue; Salix (fruticose) commences about 5,000 feet, continues +here and there to Moflong. Buddleia Neemda is found about Churra, but +not commonly; and soon disappears. B. 4-alata commences beyond the +Churra Punjee, and continues as far as Moflong. + +Thibaudia buxifolia becomes less common beyond 5,000 feet; other forms of +Ericineae appear in places about 5,000 feet, Gaultheria continuing as far +as Moflong. Eurya species alterum, commences about the same elevation, +continuing to Moflong. + +Three species of Spiraea are found between Surureem and Moflong, none +perhaps below 5,000 feet; Prunella occurs about the same height, +continuing as far as Moflong. + +On crossing the Boga Panee, the country becomes perhaps more undulated +and much more barren, scarcely any arborescent vegetation is to be seen, +the little woody vegetation consisting of stunted shrubs. Immediately +around Moflong, the country is excessively bare, not a tree is to be +seen, even the sides of ravines being clothed with stunted shrubs. +Berberis asiatica, Viburna, Spiraea _bella_? Eurya _camellifolia_, Betula +_corylifolia_. + +To the north, fine woods are seen, and to the east, fir woods, the +nearest being about 4 miles off. The village is small and wretchedly +dirty, the paths being the worst of all I have seen on these hills. The +houses and the adjoining fields are surrounded with hedges of +Colquhounia, Erythrina, Buddlaea. + +In waste places Colquhounia _micrantha_, Cysticapnos, Verbesina, Pteris, +Davallia, etc. are to be found, as well as Codonopsis viridiflora. The +hills are covered with low grass, almost a sward. On this, Potentilla, +Agrimonia, Geranium as well as in fields, Pisoideum floribus cyaneis, +Campanula, Aster disco azureo may be found; on low spots a very small +Parnassia, and a still smaller Ischaemum. + +Ranunculus, one species, but this is uncommon; Delphinium is common in +thickets, etc. + +The only cultivation is potatoes, a few years since introduced, and which +answers admirably, some turnips and Glycine tuberosa. Cattle, goats and +pigs abundant. + +On the whole this is to be considered as the place where the peculiar +vegetation of Churra, arrives at its boundary, for although many of the +plants of the plains are to be found, they are all in a dwarf state. + +Noticed a Hoopoo, but birds in general are not frequent. + + + +CHAPTER X. + + +_Continues the Journey towards Assam and Bootan_. + +The annexed table of the distributions of plants in relation to altitudes +of the Khasyah mountains may render the subject of the preceding +observations more clear and distinct. The dotted line along the left +hand margin represents the elevation of the mountains, the greater height +of which is something better than 6,000 feet. + +[Gradient Surureem to Moflong: g163.jpg] + +_October 8th_.--Visited the fir wood, which is about three miles to the +eastward; the road runs over the same _downey_ ground. The first plant +that appears is a Boreal Euphorbia, allied to that previously mentioned. +A Sanguisorba of large stature occurs in low wet places. Epilobum not +uncommon. The Pines appear first straggling, and they only form a wood +in one place, and even there not of much extent; none are of any size. +Musci Lichens and fungi abound in the wood, as also Circaea and +Herminium? + +Osbeckia Nepalensis, Hedychia 2, a small Goodyera, Tricyrtis Hedera, +Polygonum, Polypodium, Gaultheria, Viburnum, Thibaudiacea fructibus +gratis, subacidis. Eurya, Valeriana, Quercus, may likewise be found. +Salix occurs on the skirts in low places. The hills around are clothed +with grasses, among which is a large Airoidea; in the low valleys between +these, intersected with small water-courses, three species of Juncus, a +curious Umbellifera fistulosa, and Mentha verticillata, occur. Another +Hypericum is likewise found in lately cleared places. + +Some cultivation occurs about the place on the slopes of hills, chiefly +of a Digitaria, sown broadcast, and tied up in bundles when nearly ripe; +together with Glycine tuberosa, and Coix Lacryme. + +To the eastward the hills become more rocky, affording little vegetation, +the chief plant is an Othonnoidea; another Herminioidea, and a +Habenariod, both out of flower, may be found, the former on hills, the +latter in low places; a tall Campanula was among the new plants, and an +Umbellifera with curious foliage. + +The height of this ridge is 5,768 feet, the temperature being 74 degrees, +and water boiling at 201.75 degrees. + +Took the elevation of Moflong bungalow. Temperature of the air 65 +degrees; water boiled at 202.25 degrees; this gives 5,410 feet. + +There are several high rounded hills about this place, (one to the south +of the Boga Panee,) the generality of which are more elevated than those +on the northern side; the most conspicuous is the hill near Moleem, the +north face of which is wooded, and which is at least 1,000 feet above +Moflong. + +8 P.M. Temperature 58.5 degrees. 5 P.M. 65 degrees. + +_October 9th_.--Rain as usual in the morning. Thermometer at 7 A.M., +58.5 degrees. + +_October 10th_.--A fine bracing cold morning, with the thermometer at +53.5 degrees. 7 A.M. left for Myrung. The march to Syung is +uninteresting, passing over precisely the same country as that about +Moflong, with vegetation much the same. A tall Carduaceous tree with +pink flowers was found in the swampy bottoms of the valleys. About +Syung, a seneciois tree foliis angustissimus. It is about this place +that the sides of the ravines become clothed with forest, and from this +northward, Pines increase in abundance. Anthistiria speculis +villosissimis continues here and there; a good deal of cultivation passed +on the road, especially under Syung to the south, where there is a large +valley. The chief cultivation appears to be Coix, Glycine, and some +rice, but the produce seemed very small. At the foot of Syung on the +north side, large tufts of Juncus occur, and on the first ascent another +species of Valeriana foliis radicalibus reniformi cordatus occurs. Urena +lobale was noticed as high as 5,300 feet. Between Syung and Myrung, +especially about Nungbree, Parnassia recurs, with another species of +Epilobium, Xyris, Juncus, the Senecioneoe, etc.; a new Impatiens occurs +towards Myrung. Generally speaking, the plants are much the same as +those about Moflong; but several new Compositae occur. + +The road leaves Nungbree to the right, leaving the most interesting parts +of the march behind. Altogether not more than 20 additional plants +occurred in a journey of 6 hours. Many parts are wet and marshy, and +there is an absence of all tree vegetation, until one reaches Syung. This +makes the first part of the way somewhat tedious. At Syung an Elaeagnus +occurs; Colquhounia as usual in hedges; Styrax occurs at foot of the hill +the altitude of which is 5,000 feet. + +An anemone is common on road sides, especially on this side of Syung; a +new Potentilla occurs; and the only Boragineous plant hitherto seen by me +on these hills, a Cynoglossum closely allied to C. canescens. The +altitude of Syung is 5,594 feet. The temperature being 70 degrees, and +water boiling at 202 degrees. Myrung 6 P.M. Thermometer 65 degrees. + +_October 11th_.--Myrung 7 A.M. temp. 63 degrees Fahr.; noon 67 degrees; +6 P.M. temp. 65 degrees; 9 temp. P.M. 62.5 degrees. Weather unsettled, +showery, and very cloudy, a very fine view is had of Bootan and the +Himalayas from this place, particularly about 7 A.M. when the atmosphere +is clear, the Durrung peaks being most magnificent. The vegetation of +the hills about here is much the same as about Moflong. The woods are +fine, composed chiefly of oaks; a Magnolia, which is a very large tree, +likewise occurs together with Gordonia, an occasional Pinus, Myrica +integrifolia. The most curious tree is one which with the true +appearance of an Elaeagnus, seems to be a Loranthus, the first +arborescent species yet found, although, as one or two other exceptions +occur to parasitism, there is no reason why there should not be a +terrestrial arborescent species, as well as a fruticose one. The wood to +the east of the bungalow, which clothes a deep and steep ravine, has a +very rich flora; a dryish ridge on the other side of its torrent abounds +with Orchideae, and presents an arborescent Gaultheria. The ridge in +question may be recognised by its large rocks which are covered with +Epiphytes Mosses, etc. In this wood Pothos flammea is very common, +climbing up the trees as well as hanging in festoons. The marshes which +are frequented by a few snipe, present grasses, the usual Cyperaceae, +Xyris, occurs but is not common; Panicum stagninum? Eriocaulon spe. +fluitans? Burmannia Rungioidea floribus carneis magnis, Senecionides, +Ammannia rotundifolia, Sphagnum, Carduacea floribus roseis, Limnophilae +sp. Mentha verticillata, and the others previously found in similar +situations. _Goldfussia_ so common about Churra, recurs here, but +rarely. + +The wood abounds with several species of birds, among which a green +_Bulbul_ is the most common, then the fan-tailed Parus, with its +coquettish airs; judging from the voice there is a species of Bucco. Both +species of Phaenicornis, yellow and crimson, described in Gould's Century +as male and female, and the black Edolius are found. The only animals +are two species of squirrel, and a genet, of which I shot one, but +although it fell from a height of 70 feet or so, I could not succeed in +securing it; it is a lengthy animal, black and grey, with a long tail, +climbing trees with great facility. The ring-dove of Churra continues. + +The weather during the four days I stayed at Myrung was unsettled; fine +usually in the morning, but cloudy and showery in the evening; the range +of the thermometer from 53 degrees, at 6.5 A.M. to 68 degrees in the +afternoon in an open verandah. The place, however, is not a cheerful +one, for the aspect on every side except to the E. and NE. is dreary, +marshes and the usual bleak grassy hills being alone visible. My +favourite spot in this direction would be the Nungbree hill, the altitude +of which, at least of that part over which the road to the village runs, +is 5,439, (or probably 5,700,) temperature of the air being **, and water +boiling at 202.5 degrees. There is a beautiful and very extensive wood +at Nungbree, the largest I have yet seen; it consists, at least at the +skirts, principally of oaks; a large Pyrus is also not uncommon. Eurya, +and an arborescent Buddleia likewise occur. + +[THE OK-KLONG ROCK: p167.jpg] + +At this place Plectranthus azureus makes its appearance, otherwise the +vegetation is that of Myrung; the most remarkable plant is a huge +Sarcocordalis, parasitic on the roots of a large climbing Cissus cortice +suberosa, foliis quinatis, on the wet parts of the wood, especially +towards the mountain foot, mosses abound, chiefly the pendent Hypna and +Neckerae. + +On the 13th, I went to a celebrated rock called Kullung, bearing about +NW. from Myrung, from the heights surrounding which it is visible; the +road runs off from the Nunklow nearly opposite Monei, near to which +village one passes; the village is of no great size, and as well as +others in this direction is inhabited chiefly by blacksmiths, the iron +being procured from the sand washed down the mountain torrents; the sound +of their anvils when beaten is very soft and musical, not unlike that of +a sheep bell. The road to the rock is very circuitous; it finally +ceases, and for an hour one traverses ridges on which no path exists, +having the usual vegetation. The rock is certainly a vast mass, forming +a precipice of 700 feet to the westward, on which side it is nearly bare +of vegetation, gradually shelving to the east, and covered with +tree-jungle, among which huge mosses are to be found. At its foot some +fine fir trees occur, one at its very base measured nine feet in +circumference, but had no great height. The forest consists of Oaks, +Pines, Panax, Erythrina Eurya, Gordonia. + +The base of the rock is covered with mosses, Hepaticae, a Didymocarpus, +Caelogyne and some other epiphylical orchideae, among others Bolbophyllum +cylindraceum. + +All these continue to its apex, except the mosses and Hepaticae, which +are gained by clambering, and proceeding up fissures clothed with +grasses. The apex is rounded, presenting here and there patches of +grass, Aira, and Nardus, together with a few stunted shrubs--Viburnum, +another Rhododendron, and Didymocarpus common, Caelogyne in profusion, +Bolbophyllum cylindraceum in abundance, mosses, Lichens, an Allium also +in abundance on the slopes, Stellaria in the woods towards the middle. + +The view to the westward in particular was pretty, embracing a fine well- +wooded undulated valley, with several villages and a stream of some size. +The plains of Assam and the huge Brahmapoutra were likewise seen, but not +very clearly. The distance from Myrung to the Kullung rock is certainly +not less than eight miles, the time it took was 4 hours. The altitude of +the rock is 5,392 feet, temperature 76 degrees, water boiling at 202.5. +Wild hog are found round its base. {168} + +_October 14th_.--I left for Moleem, the march is long and fatiguing; +the road leaves the Moflong road at about four miles from the village of +that name, continuing over similar barren hills, clothed with scanty +grass. On reaching Morung firs become common, but they are small. The +view of Moleem, from this direction is remarkably pretty; the country +being better wooded, especially with young firs, and the effect being +much increased by the quantities of large boulders that occur strewn in +every direction. The Boga Panee is here a contemptible stream, not knee +deep. Moleem is a place of some size on the left bank of the river, +occupying the side of a hill of considerable height. Thermometer 7 P.M. +58 degrees. + +_October 15th_.--Temp. 7 A.M. 53 degrees, at 3 P.M. 70.5 degrees, water +boiled at 204 degrees, altitude 4,473 feet, or perhaps rather more. +Walked towards Nogandree; between this and a stream resembling the Boga +Panee there is a pretty valley, the eminences generally well-wooded with +young firs. Pretty and eligible sheltered sites might here be chosen for +a Sanatarium. The vegetation is the same as that of Moflong--Delphinium, +Ranunculus, Anemone, Potentilla, Tricyrtis, Codonopsis, Lilium giganteum, +Spiraeaceae, Viola, Pyrus, Galium, Carduus, Viburna. + +The woods are not very frequent, they consist, when not exclusively of +Pines, chiefly of Oaks and Chesnuts. Underwood almost entirely of +Acanthaceae. Rhus Bucki-Amelam is common here, an Oxalis occurs in very +shady places with fleshy leaves, it is so large that it is scarcely +referrible to O. corniculata. Berberis asiatica is very common. 6 P.M. +thermometer 58 degrees, 9 P.M. 50.5 degrees. + +_October 16th_.--7 A.M. 842.5 degrees (sic). Ascended the Chillong +hill, which is among the highest portion of this range, it is said that +from this both the plains of Bengal and of Assam may be seen, not because +it overtops all the intermediate ground, but because that happens in some +places to be rather low; the termination of the 1st elevation above +Churra, is seen to be very abrupt, but nothing can be seen beyond the +elevated plateau of this part towards the south. To the east and west +the view has the usual appearance--grassy valleys and hills--with a great +disproportion of jungle. + +The summit is gained after an easy march of two hours; the ascent is +gradual. The highest ridge is naked of trees, but to the north the slope +is in one portion covered with heavy tree-jungle, in which the underwood +is as thick as I have ever seen it: it consists of an Acanthaceous plant; +the forest itself of oaks, chesnuts and Rhododendron arboreum, which last +is common on the highest margin. A few Pines occur, but scarcely above +the middle of the hill. To the north very high ground is visible, as +likewise from Myrung, and between this and Chillong is an elevated +plateau which appears to me likewise very eligible for the sites of +European residences. + +But many places about Moleem are so, especially towards Nonkreem; and it +is much to be regretted that some situation in this part of the range had +not been selected for the site of a sanatarium instead of Churra. The +Rhododendra were covered with mosses and other epiphytes, among which +Otochilus occurred. Bambusae, 2 Fici sp. Andropogon, Gaylussacia, etc. +occur about the wood. The vegetation of the grassy hills was precisely +the same, Aroidea, Erianthus, Tofieldioidea, Parnassia nana _potius_ +_collina_, Sphacelioidea, Osbeckia, Arbutoideae, etc. I got scarcely a +single new plant; the best was a fine large Neckera, sect. Dendroidea. +The temperature being 70 degrees: water boiled at 201 degrees, making the +altitude 6,167 feet. No view of any particular beauty was obtained, nor +did any thing occur to repay me for the trouble and fatigue of the +journey. + +About Moleem an Osmundoid is common enough, but not in _flower_: the +northern forms are Ranunculus, Anemone, Parnassia, Pyrus, Pinus, Viola, +Galium, Campanula, Clematis, of which an additional species occurs, +Bromoideae, etc. etc., as at Moflong. I took the height of this place +again; the mean of the three thermometers gave 4,502 feet, the +temperature being at 60 degrees: water boiling at 95 degrees, 203.75 +degrees, 204 degrees. It must, however, be remembered that my residence +is not 100 feet above the bed of the Boga Panee, so that it would be easy +to attain an elevation of 5,000 feet in the village itself. + +_October 17th_.--I returned to Churra to send away my collections and +to consult with Major Lister as to the routes proposed for me by Capt. +Jenkins, viz. through the Garrows, or through the Cacharees. Nothing +particular occurred en route. I met with Hydrangea exaltata along a +torrent flowing into the main-feeder of the Boga Panee, and two other +Araliaceae. The highest ground crossed is towards the ravine of the Boga +Panee, and from this a good view of Moflong is obtained, and also of the +Himalayas in clear weather. Coelogyne Wallichiana was commencing to +flower; this plant occurs in profusion in some rocky spots about Moflong. +The only additional thing I remarked was, that Luculia scarcely reaches +the Kala Panee. + +On my return to Churra, a change was observed in the character of the +vegetation, all the Tradescantias had ceased, as well as most of the +Impatientes, and Eriocaulons. The grasses had become more withered, and +the general tint was brown. No kites (Falco milvus) are to be observed +out of Churra. + +The plants which were particularly conspicuous about Churra, were past +flowering in the interior; thus Osbeckia Nepalensis? was not to be met +with in flower in the interior, while it is in profusion about the +station. The same may be said of other instances. + +After all Churra presents the richest flora of any other place in the +Khasyah hills, because there is a greater extent of wood near it, than is +found in any other locality, much greater _altitudes_ and deeper descents +in its ravines, and it is as it were the transit point between a tropical +or sub-tropical, and a temperate vegetation. I have no doubt, that +within a circle of three miles of Churra, 3,000 species might be found in +one year. + +The principal plants pointing out the tropical nature of the vegetation +are Pandanus, which is almost limited to the limestone formation, on +which it is excessively abundant, Chamaerops Martiana? which from its +affecting particularly the walls of the amphitheatres so conspicuous +about Moosmai, Mamloo and Surureem, and the depths of whose sides is +probably at Mamloo 1,000 feet, might have been better named. I have +never seen it on any other places. The Alsophila Brunoniana is likewise +apparently confined to the limestone hills, while the tree fern, +Polypodium, is found on sandstone, as well as Impatiens, Tradescantia, +Commelineae, Eriocauloneae, Xyres, almost all the grasses, Melastomaceae, +almost all the Leguminosae and the preponderance of tropical Rubiaceae, +which are, however, few, Scitamineae, Epiphytical Orchideae, Urena +Labiata, etc. etc. + +On the _23rd_ I went to Mamloo, which is about four miles to the west of +Churra. To this place the limestone ridge, extending from Churra, nearly +approaches: its vegetation is not rich but always stunted: rocky +amphitheatres are very remarkable at Mamloo, they are of excessive depth; +their walls being generally perpendicular, often somewhat overhanging. +The manner of their formation is now to be seen in the amphitheatre +immediately contiguous to the village, although it appears to be very +slow. It is thus, bodies of water falling from the edge of the table +land, seem to undermine the sandstone below, producing land slips, which +occur in this manner year after year. Since 1835, the edge of the +Moosmai fall has receded at least 10 feet, and ample evidence remains of +the recession to take place next rains. This simple undermining will +suffice for the formation of ravines, which are formed by their sides +merely slipping down without being carried away, this last only occurring +in the immediate vicinity of the strength of the torrent. All the +different stages may be easily seen. The edge of the table land I take +to have been originally at Mahadeb. The time that has elapsed between +the falling of the first cataract over its edge, and the formation of the +edge over which the waters at present fall, must be immense, since that +edge has now receded several miles. Allowing the annual recess to be 5 +feet, and the distance 5 miles; the time occupied would be 5,700 years: +that the time has been great, is proved by the sides of these places +being clothed with large tree-jungle to the base of the scarp. + +_October 25th_.--I went in search of the fossil marine beach, (found +during our first visit in 1835,) but passed it, and my journey ended at +the site of the Jasper beds: this occupies a ridge where roads strike off +leading to the Orange villages, so called from the groves of orange trees +by which they are surrounded, and from which they derive their name. From +this spot, 3 villages are seen occupying sheltered situations, none much +above 2,000 feet in elevation. Luckily I was accompanied, (although +going down I was unconscious of it,) by a boy who had been with +McClelland when he originally discovered the fossil remains, so I +recommenced the ascent, after digging in many places without any success. +The site is scarcely 1,000 feet below Mamloo, which is 3,153 feet; it is +below the ridge along which the road is visible from the village, and is +about 100 yards farther from it than the second square stone erection. +One would imagine that one was passing through rocks presenting nothing +interesting: the rocks are in many places very hard, particularly when +they have been long exposed to the atmosphere, in which case they are +less red than when sheltered by vegetation, when they are soft and of a +reddish colour: the fossils are by no means frequent, the cylindric +_tubes_ appear to occupy the outer or rather upper surface of the +sandstone, in the interior of which Medusae or Cyrtomae are most +frequent, accompanied by shells, some of large size, the largest bivalves +resembling _scolloped oysters_; the next in size looking like oblong +cockles: for only in one position did I see a conglomeration of minute +shells; this occurred above the others and nearer the jungle. I brought +away with me, two boxes full. Owing to my presuming that I should meet +with water near, I omitted the precaution of taking some with me, so I +could not ascertain exactly the height of the place. All the fossils are +easily friable. {172} + +From the Jasper, which is scarce 1,800 feet in elevation, the following +plants occurred nearly in succession--Holmskioldia, this is scarcely +found above 2,000 feet; Porana in abundance, gradually diminishing above; +Callicarpa arborea abundant, continuing to about 2,200; Triumfetta, Urena +lobata, Arundo the same as above, Melica latifolia, Panicum plicatum, and +one or two other species; a Polygonum, Andropogon, small Commeline, Leea, +Erythrina are very close to the spot, and the only Churra plant, except +the Arundo and Wendlandia is a Labiata, Geniosporum? so is Composita +arborea; indeed the vegetation is almost decidedly tropical. The +following plants are then seen--Tetranthera, Flemingia as at Mahadeb, +Vitis, Drymaria, Panicum eleusinoides, Eurya, Panax foliis decompositis +inermis, Pogonatherum crenitum, Wallichia, which occur before one has +gained an ascent of 2,000 feet: Osbeckia nepalensis descends to this but +in small quantities; then I remarked Bidens, AEtheilema, Caricineae, +Rottlera, Didymocarpus, Begonia, Cheilanthes dealbata, Stemodia +ruderalis? Scutellaria, Impatiens bracteata, Rungiae sp. Sida, +Elephantopus sp. and Bambusa, Gordonii occurring there at an elevation of +about 2,100 feet. Then Centotheca lappacea, Deeringia, Panicum +_centrum_, Gouania, Caryophyllus, which last occurs on all the chain of +Himalayas, and which I have seen as high as 6,000 feet in the Mishmee +Mountains, latitude 28 degrees. Panax foliis palmatim partitis, +Clerodendrum nutans, Ficus feruginea and F. hispida, foliis cordatis, +serrato-dentatis: then Saurauja micrantha; before 2,300 feet were +reached. There Oxyspora sp. paniculis cernius ramis ascendentibus, +frutex, Croton of old, Ruellia persicaefolia appeared, and about 2,400 +feet, the 1st Quercus appeared. Here, as at Mahadeb, Ruellia Neesiana +became common, and Linum trigynum, Uncinia, etc. Grasses commence to +preponderate at about 2,800 feet, but not the grasses of Churra. Holcus, +Airoides, etc. not being found, but Panica varia, and Rottboellia which +ceases above this. + +At the raised Marine Fossil Beach, a queer Cephalanthus? Legumenosa +arbuscula fol. pinnatis impari (Pongamiae) Legumenibus secus suturam +quamque alatis, Mangifera indici, Anthistiria arundinacea are found, and +an arbusculous Mimosa, but unarmed. Shortly above this, Holcus, +Andropogons, etc., begin to preponderate, and thence the vegetation is +nearly that of Churra. The woods of Mamloo consist of Bucklandia, oaks, +chesnuts, Panax, Hyalostemma, Eurya, and Oleineoe; Epiphytes are very +common. The most remarkable tree is one foliis alternis bistipulat; +corymbis denis, Calycibus hinc fissis, petalis 5-albis, Antherae sinuosae +columna terminans, et ovarium et stigma occultantes? fructibus pendulis +stipilatis ovato oblongis, carpellis 5-latere marginatus. + +This has some affinities apparently with Sterculiaceae; the flowers are +perhaps polygamous. + +Here Cypripedium insigne, Venustum, and various other fine Orchideae may +be found. + +The only bird I saw was a Bucco, which in voice resembled the green one +of the plains. + +The elevation of Mamloo is 3,153, the temperature being at 7 A.M. 63 +degrees. The large metal thermometer rose at the boiling point to 206.25 +degrees: wooden one to 206.5 degrees: centigrade 96.7 degrees: small +metal 200 degrees. + +One of the most curious places about Churra is situated over the ridge in +which the coal is found; on surmounting this, which is steep and perhaps +400 feet high, one soon commences to descend gradually until you come to +a water-course; on proceeding along this a short way you come to a +precipice. The water falling over this, has cut a deep well in the +limestone: the road to the bottom is precipitous and dangerous. On +reaching the water-course again no signs of the well are observable, +access to this is gained by subterranean passages, of which two, now dry, +exist. The scene inside is very striking; you stand on the rugged bottom +of the well which is 70 or 80 feet deep, the part above corresponding to +the fall, being of about the same depth; the water now escapes through a +chasm below the bed of the well, the other fissures or passages being +above, and probably now rarely letting off the water. After a severe +fall of rain the scene must be grand. + +_November 4th_.--Nonkreem 6.5 A.M., thermometer 31 degrees: hoarfrost. +Marched hither from Surureem. Vegetation the same until you reach the +Boga Panee, when Delphinium, Anemone, and Ranunculus make their +appearance. On the high ridges before reaching Boga Panee, found an +Astragalus; at Nonkreem, a Scrophularia. Nonkreem is a curious place, +the village of no great size in a valley: the sides of the valley are +covered with boulders; those at the entrance from Churra of huge size, +and thrown together with great confusion. Pines at this place occur of +some size, but they are distinctly limited in this direction to the +granitic formation. The downs have now assumed a withered wintry +appearance. Nonkreem is a great place for iron; this is found in coarse +red sandstone, or it may be fine granite, forming precipices; this is +scraped or pushed down by iron rods, it is then washed by a stream turned +off on to it: the stream is dammed up, and the irony particles by their +weight fall to the bottom: they are very heavy, of a dull blackish +appearance. All the streams are of a whitish colour, and the rocks are +covered with Caelogyne Wallichiana. + +The elevation of Nonkreem is 4,578 feet, the temperature of the air being +52 degrees. The large thermometer indicated boiling water 203 degrees: +centigrade 96.5 degrees: wooden 204 degrees: small 197 degrees. In the +Nonkreem jheel, Alisma, Villarsia! and Potamogeton occur. + +_November 5th_.--The march to Suneassa continues over high downs, the +vegetation being precisely as before, viz. Cnicus, Carduus, Prunella +Pedicularis, Gaultheria, Gnaphalia, Bromoid acroideum, Tussilaginoid +Andropogon, Sphacelia Daucas, Hypericum, Hedychium, Polygonum rheoides, +Smithia but rare, Tradescantia clavigera, Parnassia collina, Pteris +aquilina, Euphorbia, Dipsacus, Salix, Osbeckia capitata, AEthionnia, +Eriocaulon, Knoxia cordata, and Campanula. In short, the higher ridges +have the vegetation of those between the Kala and Boga Panee, the less +elevated, that of Surureem. Along the watercourses Pyrus, Betula, +Corylifoliae, and Eurya. + +As one approaches Suneassa the ravines become wooded, and the aspect of +country more diversified. The woods consist of a Castanea, 2 oaks, +Rhododendron arboreum and R. punctatum, Panax, Eurya, Thebaudiaceae +variae, no less than 4 or 5 of these, one is a Gaylussacia; Saccharum +megala makes its appearance at Suneassa. + +This is a small straggling village, on the brow of the ravine of the same +name; it is like Moflong, each house being hidden by hedges composed as +usual of Buddleia, Colquhounii, Solanum spirale? Erythrina, Ficus, and +Rhus. Sugarcane, but of poor quality, is here cultivated, as well as +capsicum, but this is also of inferior quality; the houses are worse than +usual. Near this place several Nunklow plants appear, as Plectranthus +caeruleus, Labiata foliis verticillatis of Suddya. Its elevation is +4,362 feet, the temperature being in the air, 59 degrees. Big +thermometer boiling point ditto 204 degrees: wooden ditto 204 degrees: +small 198 degrees: centigrade ditto 96 degrees. Pines occur here and +there towards Suneassa, but of no size and no abundance. + +_November 6th_.--Left Suneassa and proceeded down the ravine which is +probably 1,200 to 1,500 feet deep. The scenery is very pretty, the sides +being much wooded; the woods open, consisting chiefly of pines, which are +of moderate size, Gordonia, Castanea, and Quercus: Mimosea occurs, also +Saurauja. The grasses are as before, except that the Anthisteria of +Nunklow appears, with Volkameria, Verbena Primulacae, and Osbeckia +capitate, foliis lineari oblongis, floribus carneis. Towards the foot, +the scenery still improves. + +The woods consist of pines and a Quercus foliis castaneae cupulis +echinatis, Arbor mediocris; the slopes as well as the valley are +cultivated chiefly for rice, this last often assuming the terrace +fashion. The river is of considerable width, 50 to 60 yards, but of no +depth: two here flow together, and at the end of the valley a still +larger stream not fordable in the rains, at least where I crossed, meets +it. On the streams at the base of the Suneassa acclivity, Salix, +Ligustrum, Ficus frutex humelis, and a fine Indigofera occur. Moving +thence along the valley the vegetation becomes tropical, although pines +descend nearly to its level. Pontederia the small one of Bengal, ditto +Sagittaria Vandelliae, Poae 3, Apluda, Cyperaceae, Saccharum megala, and +spontaneum, Elytrophorus, Ammannia, Erianthus, Cnicus! Artemisia as +before, Arundo exalum, Cirsium, Carduus! Scitamineae 2, Panicum curvatum, +Setaria glauca, Swertia angustifolia! Volkameriae sp., Ranunculus +hirsutoideus! Zizania ciliaris. + +Those marked with (!) have probably straggled down. The cultivation is +chiefly of rice, Eleusine, Coix, and the edible seeded Labiata. Grasses +abound; in addition to those above several new ones occur, Rottboellia +exallata, Anthisteria of Nunklow, Arundinaceae, Andropogones several, +Saccharum fusco-rubum, 25 species might certainly be collected. + +Fine pines occur on the other ascent from its base to apex. Here also +occurs Phoenix pumile, which as well as the Rottboellia, which I think I +have seen in the Mogoung valley (during the journey to Ava), and Buddleia +neemda. + +The ascent gained, the country appears level, covered with the usual +grasses. The ravines are well wooded, but few pines occur, although they +may be seen here and there. The woods appear the same as those of +Churra. Pandanus sp. altera? occurs. In one ravine gathered a new +Thebaudiaceae allied to T. variegata, differing in its short greenish +flowers and its smoothness. + +[Gradient Nonkreem to Amwee: g176.jpg] + +Amwee is situated on an undulated plain or table land; the undulations +are gentle, separated by marshy tracts: no steep ravines occur, the face +of the undulations is covered with grasses, among which are seen most of +the Churra plants, the sides are covered with fine woods with defined +edges, consisting chiefly of oaks, chesnuts and Bucklandia. The aspect +of the country is pretty, resembling some woodland scenery in the south +of England; close to Amwee is a fine stream 40 yards wide, this winds +through the valley, and on its upper part fine cascades occur. No fish +are to be found besides those of Churra. The river is crossed by a stone +bridge consisting of pillars of single slabs of large size, one measuring +20 feet in length by from 4 to 5 in breadth. The temperature varies from +50 to 68 during the day in an open verandah. Fogs are not so common, nor +is the rain so heavy as at Churra. The space being much greater, and the +country more level, it would be better as a sanatarium than Churra, +besides which, its access is as easy, it being reached in one day from +Jynteapore. There is, however, a Toorai about Jynteapore, which is +unhealthy. Its altitude is 3,500 feet, or nearly 500 below Churra. + +The vegetation is nearly the same as about Churra, some new Castaneae and +an Elaeocarpus occur, and Pandanus of large size in the woods. +Epiphytical Orchideae abound; Nepenthes occurs here. Altitude from three +observations 3,530 feet: 1st observation 3,439: 2nd 3,597: 3rd 3,624. + +_November 10th_.--Joowye: this is north from Amwee, and about 8 miles +distant. Two valleys have to be descended, one rather steep. The +country alters immediately after the 1st ascent, the woods nearly +disappearing except in the more favoured spots. Pines soon commence. In +the second valley, the stream of which is large, and of which pretty +views are to be obtained, the pines reach on the south side to the bank +of the stream, on the north scarcely any are to be seen. In the woods +about Amwee, Eugenia is very common: noticed on the route Lonicera. + +Joowye is the largest village I have seen, it is of great extent but +straggling; near its entrance is a breast-work now nearly complete. The +houses are of a better description than those generally met with. They +are surrounded by wood, especially fine bamboos, in habit not unlike B. +baccifera. They are also surrounded by excellent timber palings. The +people are different from Khasyas Proper--perhaps they are not so fine a +race. Their features approach more to those of Bengallees, particularly +the women, who dress their hair like those of Assam, indeed the dress +generally of both sexes assimilates to that of Assamese, although their +language seems to be Bengallee. In the wood surrounding this place +curious features of vegetation occur, and beautiful lanes and pathways. +One may see a beech now naked of leaves, standing out in graceful relief +close to the elegant foliage of a bamboo. Bamboos surround all the +houses--sugarcane, kuchoos, mustard, hemp, Musa, Ricinus were observed. + +The plants are beech, which is common and of large size. Pyrus of +Moleem, Pinus rare, Marlea begonifolia! Betula corylifolia common. +Verbena chamaedrys, Rubi 3 or 4, Tetrantherae? Rubia cordifolia, Morus, +Cerasus, Panax 3 species, Gleicheniae 2, Eurya, Juncus, Ranunculus, +Viola, Verbesina of Moflong, Sida, Clematis _pubescens_, Caricineae, +Myrica, Gordonia, Polygonum 3, among them Rheoides Engeldhaardtii common, +Viburna 2, Wendlandia, Osbeckia capitata and nepalensis. The grasses +chiefly Andropogons; Mussaenda, Bucklandia, Saurauja, Hiraea, Dipsacus +rare, Camellia oleifolia, and C. axillaris, Begonia laciniata, Ficus, +Vitis, Sonerila, Plectranthus azureus, Randia, Mephitidia, Psychotria, +Galium, Clerodendrum infortunatum, Pyrus or crab, Fragaria, Potentilla, +Urena lobata. The diversified nature of the vegetation, both tropical +and temperate, is at once evident. + +The altitude is 3,553 feet--temperature of the air 62 degrees; large +thermometer boiling point 205.5 degrees: wooden ditto 206.75: centigrade +ditto 96 degrees: small ditto 199.5 degrees. + +The higher ground about the place is about 4,000 feet: Joowye being +situated in a hollow. Viola and Peristrophe occur. + +_November 11th_.--The march to Nurtung occupies about 6 hours. The +country is level, or merely undulated, with no considerable descent, the +steepest being that to the river on which Nurtung is situated. The +vegetation continues the same, the trees except in the ravines almost +exclusively pines, those on the ravines consisting of oaks, Rhododendra, +Betula corylifolia, Betula moroides, Solidago, Verbena, Primulaceae, +Othonna, occur; Anthistiriae, _both_ those of Nunklow are common, +Rottboellia Manisuris in low valleys: here and there Phoenix pumila is +common. The country just before Nurtung is uninteresting, scarcely any +thing but grass being visible in some directions. Indeed it falls off on +leaving Joowye. + +Rhinanthus, Corolla infundibulif. subbilabiat. lobis 2, superioribus +minoribus, stam. ascendent. stigmati inclusi decurvo. + +_November 12th_.--Nurtung is a large place for these hills, perhaps +next in extent to Joowye, it occupies principally both sides of a +sufficiently sheltered hill. The lanes adjacent to the place are narrow, +often very wet, and always very dirty. The gardens are enclosed with +wooden palings and are screened still further by bamboos. The houses, at +least the better order, are still better than even those of Joowye. The +exterior is of the same construction as all Khasya houses, but the lawns +and the comparative cleanliness of the front makes them look much better. +The market, which took place to-day, is outside the village and close to +our bungalow: it is well attended, but the amount of persons could not +exceed 100 to 200, and these form a considerable amount of all the +persons capable of bearing burdens from the neighbouring villages. The +luxuries exhibited are all Khasyan, consisting of stinking fish, some +other things of dubious appearance and still more dubious odour, millet +and the inferior grains, and the fashionable articles of Khasya clothing +and the adjuncts to that abominable habit pawn eating. There was plenty +of noise, but still order prevailed: no other rupees than the _rajah's_ +were taken, and even pice were refused. Iron implements of husbandry of +native manufacture were vended, in short all the various luxuries or +necessaries of a Khasya are obtainable. + +This place bears evidence of having been ruled over by some chief +pretending to Hindooism. This is observable in the large fig trees in +some of the buildings, in most of the houses in the presence of some +brahmins, in the tanks, and in a sacred lake. At any rate it is attended +with bad effects, and to see a Khasya attempting the formalities of a +rigid Hindoo is ridiculously absurd. + +It must be a wealthy place, many of the natives are well off; and I saw a +_lady_ of a decidedly superior nature to the Khasya women, clad in snow +white, reclining in oriental fashion on a platform. The _vegetation_ of +this place forms a curious melange around our huts: Rhus bucki ameli, two +Artimiseae, Anthistiria arundinacia, Pteris aquilina, Callicarpa +_lilacina_, Eurya, Bombax, Osbeckia nepalensis and linearis, Marlea +begonifolia, Pyrus, Pinus, Urticia fructibus aurantiaceus capitulatis, +Polygonum rheoides, Rubi 3, Swertia angustifolia, Polygonum globuliferum, +Valerianae, Cacalia, Randia, Gnaphalia nervosa, and G. revoluta, Smilax, +Plectranthus azureus, Trichosanthes, Leea, Tradescantia clavigera, +Geniosporum, _Butea_, Hypericum, Knoxia cordata, Rice cultivation. + +Along the path to the village are to be found, Carduus, Myrica +crotalaria, _Hacyoides_, Cariceneae, Panicum curvatum, Arundo, Mentha +verticillata, Cyperaecae usual, Zizania ciliaris, Panax, Wendlandia +_Salvinia_, Isachne bigeniculata, Betula corylifolia common, Pontedera, +Tetranthera, Erythrina, Celtis, Salix, Buddleia, Gordonia, Calamus +abundant, Juncus, Arum macrophyllum, Cordiaceae, Urena lobata, +Cynoglossum canescens, Bambusa, Verbesinea, _Lavinia_, Magnolia of +Myrung, Camellia oleifolia, Gualtheria. + +About the village, Porana, Musa, Verbena, Xanthophyllum, Xyris, Urtica +herophylla, Sambucus, etc. + +The cultivation consists of rice, millet, Soflong? pumpkins and tobacco; +guavas and oranges, are also to be seen. + +Daphne cannabina occurs here, as well as Loxotis obliqua, the Cardaminum, +Plantago, and Martynia. + +From a fresh observation and taking the mean, I find the elevation of +Nurtung to be 3,302 feet. + +On enquiry I find that Rulung is one march off, that the country is +similar, and that pines grow there to a large size. From this place to +Koppilee river it is said to be nine marches. A fuqueer from Cutch said +several, six to ten--and as the distance is nearly fifty miles and the +ground difficult, he was probably right. + +You then come to the Meekir country. To get into Tooly Ram's country +would require at least nine days, but with loaded people probably twelve +or fifteen. The station between Rulung and the Koppilee is Hush Koorah. +Thermometer varies here from 45 to 85 in the sun, in shade from 52 to 74. + +_November 13th_.--Left for the Borpanee. + +The country traversed is easy, consisting chiefly of undulations covered +with grassy vegetation. There are no steep ascents nor descents; and the +only obstacle is the Borpanee. The march is of about six hours' +duration. + +Butea suffruticosa is very common about Nurtung, but ceases soon after +leaving its environs. All the valleys near this place are cultivated: +the ground being now inundated in proportion. Dipsacus valeriana +continued, and a short distance from Nurtung pines become very common. +Thence the country became more undulated and scarcely a tree was met +with: Hedysarum gyrans commenced shortly after leaving Nurtung: a sure +sign of decreasing elevation. The country subsequently improved, being +more diversified with wood: firs became abundant, Callicarpa arborea +commenced. About Nonkreen, a small village to the east, close to our +path the trees became mostly different. Kydia appeared, a tree like the +mango, and some others unknown to me. Bauhinia, Randia, Phyllanthus +Embelica, and a stunted arboreous Symplocos, Anthistiria arundinacea +common, with chesnuts (Castaneae). + +Close to this, Gordonia, pines of some size, Anthistiria arundinacea and +Cassioides. The grasses continued the same, but two new Andropogons and +a small Rottboellia appear; Holcus, Airoides, etc. of Churra have ceased: +the other are Sacchara and various Andropogons. On approaching a +considerable descent the woods became open, consisting at first entirely +of pines, Betula of Joowye, etc. then of pines, Quercus castaneoides +which attains a large size. It was here that the pines became large, one +felled measured sixty-nine feet to the first branch, most are straight, +the greatest diameter not two feet. Gordonia occurred here of large +size, the woods are really delightful, reminding one much of England. +Here Myrica occurs but rarely, Lematula, Flemingia, Elephantopus, Vanda, +Quercus callicarpifolius commences, Biophytum appears a short distance +hence. Also, Liriodendron, Dipterocarpus, Bambusa, Pinus but of smaller +size, Engelhaardtia, Dioscorea, Castanea, Quercus callicarpa, which is +very common. + +Here Bombax appears somewhat lower, with it Castanea, Kydia, Gordonia. No +pines now occur except on the neighbouring heights. + +The descent to the Borpanee is not great, say 400 feet; on its banks +Thunbergia grandiflora commences, but the Castanea castaneoides of large +size, Camellia oleifolia, Daphne cannabina, Rhododendron punctatum +variety. Engenia Wallichii (which commences), Quercus castaneoides, etc. +may be found along its banks. + +This is a large stream, not fordable at any time, nor passable in the +rains; both banks are high, rocks of course break the stream, which is +gentle at the points crossed. Breadth is 50 to 60 yards, the elevation +of its bed is 2,508 feet, water boiling at 207.5 degrees: temperature 74 +degrees. + +The ascent of the north bank is great, on surmounting it one returns to +grassy undulations, the vegetation of which is the same as before, +Rottboellia of Suniassa as well as Manisuroides here occur. The village +Madan is very small, the people, of course, as they have scarcely ever +seen a white face, very polite and obliging: it is situated on a hill, +but is still below the north bank of the river. Its altitude is 2,753 +feet--temperature of the air 67 degrees: boiling water 207 degrees. + +[Gradient Nurtung to Madan: g182.jpg] + +The birds, as well as those of the Nurtung river, are the water-ouzel, +the greyish-blue water-chat, the red and black ditto with a white head- +top, and the black bird, _durn-durns_ or bird producing that cry +occurs, but not in great numbers. Pea-fowl at Madan. Elephants are +abundant, especially towards the descent to the Borpanee. _Fly wheel_ +(?) insect is here common at Kokreen, a small village close to Nonkreen. +Equisetum occurs along the Boga Panee as well as a new species of +Podostemon, P. fronde profunde lobato, lobis liniaribus simplicibus vel +lobatis saxis arcti adpressis, floribus marginalibus distiches. Polygala +occurs at 3,000 feet and continues higher. + +_November 14th_.--The march to Mengtung occupies about six hours, it is +by no means difficult, and the only ascent of any length is that before +descending on Nungtung. Throughout the 1st part, all the bottoms of the +valleys are cultivated, thence all is jungle, either of high grass or of +trees. + +Near Madan, Arundinaria bambusifolia may be found, although at an +elevation of 2,800 feet, Volkameria is common. The same grasses +continue. In the rice field Butomus lanceolatus, Herpestes, Jussaeia, +Juncus, Eriocaulon, Zizana ciliaris. + +We then came after traversing such low swampy ground for sometime to a +wood composed of Quercus castaneoidea, of large size; its bark is thick +and somewhat corky, its diameter three feet. Quercus callicarpifolius +appeared soon after, with Polygala linearis, Scitamineae are common in +the valley. In similar low places, Impatiens graminifolia of Churra was +seen, and Hedysarum gyrans. + +Oolooks {183} and parrots are both found: Cnicus floribus roseis, +Gerardia, Apluda, Senecio pubescens, were found in similar spots. + +After traversing a low valley with gentle undulations presenting the +usual grasses, we came to a wood presenting many tropical features. Oaks +and chesnuts still continuing to be the usual trees. Much underwood, +consisting of Acanthaceae, Laurineae, Anonaceae, Rubiaceae, among which +Poederia triphylla and Mephitidia were common. Centothca sp., +Sarcopyramis, Garcinia, Triumfetta were observed. + +Thence we came to pines. Then a low valley, the altitude of the stream +of which was 1,979 feet, the thermometer being in the air 82 degrees, +boiling point 208.5 degrees. Then a wood. + +In it Castanea ferruginea continued common, Quercus dalbergioides, Daphne +cannabina, Acanthus leucostachyus (1st appearance), Oxyspora and +Polypodium Wallichii were found; ascending a few feet, say 60, Randia +microphyllum, Aneilema aspera, and pines appeared in the woods, with +straight trunks and high branches, occasioned by the abortion of the +lower branches, sometimes dichotomously forked, bark grey, and scaley, +branches horizontal, approximated; cones inclining towards the axis. The +descent occasioned a loss of pines, oaks and chesnuts continuing, +Orthopogon, Pederia triphyllum. + +This wood was of great extent, the path running along the precipitous or +steep edge of a very wet water-course. Castanea ferruginea very common, +Cyrtandracea. + +Begonia malabarica, Achyranthes, Tradescantia flagellifera, +Phlogacanthus, Acanthaceae, Sarcopyramis, Magnolia, Eupatorium arboreum, +Laurineae, Gleichenia minor. + +Pinus subsequently appears but is rare, Eurya. + +Daphne involucrata, Gaultheria arborescens, Knoxia cordata, Polypodium +arborescens, Thibaudia, Viburni sp., Vareca, Leucas galea brunacea. + +Then still gradually ascending, open woods occurred. + +Pines, Q. castaneoides. + +Thence the ascent is still through open woods of pines. Castanea, +Quercus castaneoides and callicarpifolia, Polygala here appears, Knoxia +linearis, Flemingia, AEschynomene. + +On the top no Pines. Oaks, chesnuts, and Gordoniae appear. + +Thence a second but small ascent, pines re-appear with birch, +Scutellaria, Erythrina, Melica latifolia, Epiphytes common, especially on +Gordoniae. The altitude of the summit before descending on Nungtung was +3,359 feet: thermometer 75 degrees, boiling point 206 degrees. + +The altitude of Nungtung is 2,862 feet, Temp. 64 degrees. Big Therm. in +boiling water 206.5 degrees, ditto wooden 207 degrees, small ditto 201 +degrees, centigrade 97.75 degrees. + +[Gradient Madan to Nungtung: g185.jpg] + +Nungtung is a small village not containing more than 12 houses; these are +on michaowns, {186} and are built entirely of bamboos. The doors of +curious construction, consisting of bamboos strung longitudinally over a +transverse one, so that they can be only opened by pushing on one side. +The pigs have similar doors to their houses and appear well acquainted +with the mode of ingress and egress. + +Tobacco flourishes here. Here also I saw Sesamum and Ricinus, sure signs +of increasing temperature, Labiata edulis. The first part of the march +lay through an oak and chesnut wood; then through the valley which is +under rice cultivation; then through part of an oak and fir wood; I then +turned off to NNE. traversing undulated hills entirely covered with +grass; here and there an oak and chesnut wood occurred; this continued +until 1 P.M., when the path joined the great road as it is called, but +which is nearly as bad as the Nungtung one. The marching was very +disagreeable, owing to the path being choked up with grass, particularly +in the swampy valley just before Onkreem. In this valley wild elephants +were first seen. + +After leaving the halting or resting place under a large oak (Q. +castaneoides) at Onkreem, the path improved and is only rendered bad by +the swarms of elephants, by which animals we were disturbed twice; it +continued until 6 P.M., over undulated ground becoming lower and lower +until we arrived at the large valley of Onswye, which is even now at this +advanced period of the season, the middle of November, considerably +swampy. + +Oaks and chesnuts continued, but pines ceased about half way between +Onkreem and Onswye. + +[Gradient Nungtung to Onkreem: g187.jpg] + +[Gradient Journey towards Assam and Bootan: g188.jpg] + +[Gradient From Onkreem to Onkreem: g189.jpg] + +[Gradient Journey towards Bootan: g190.jpg] + +[Gradient Descent into Assam: g191.jpg] + +Onswye is a small village, seated on a low hill, and entirely hidden by +trees: the access to it is pretty. Its elevation is 1,632 feet, +temperature 63 degrees. Water boils at 98.75 of centigrade, small ther. +202.5 degrees, big ditto 208.75 degrees, wooden ditto 210 degrees: taking +209 degrees as the mean. + +It is a Lalung village. These people have distinct habits and language +from their neighbours: their dress is like that of the Khasyahs. They +approach to Hindoos in not eating cows. They inhabit the lower northern +ranges of these hills, but do not extend further east, nor into the +plains at the foot, and are far less civilized than the Khasyahs. + +They have religious houses or places of worship, deo-ghurs, in one of +which I slept, having it first cleansed, and the deity appeased by some +most villainous music, and a procession of men with knives. + +At this village Carica, Ficus elastica, Ficus cordifolius, Ricinus, +Artocarpus intigrifol, Tamarind, Guava, Musa, Solanum Melongena, tobacco, +etc., are cultivated. + +Caryophyllea scandens, Desmochaeta, Plumbago, Plectranthus azureus, +Phlebochiton, Cassia tora, Orthopogon, Adhatoda, Mangifera, Croton +malvaefol, Hastingsia, Torenia asiatica, Caricinea, Leea, Prunus! Congea! +Antidesma, Rottleria, Clerodendron nutans, Calamus, Xanthochymus. Mesua +ferrea, Garcinia Cowa, Leea arbuscula, Dalhousia, Roxburghia, are found +on the ascent which is moderate and pretty. + +The heavy tree or bamboo jungle does not begin until you attain 12 or +1,500 feet, up to that, the ridges present the former grasses. +Rottboellia, Andropogons, Erianthus, Saccharum, Anthistiria, and the +trees are scattered consisting of Arborescent Leguminosae, Sterculia, +Cedrela, Semicarpus continues to the tree jungle, but rarely. + +The road to the village runs through heavy woods, the plants forming +which I have already mentioned, it is in good order. The village is a +Lalung one. + +At Dullagong, which is situated in the plains of Assam, at the foot of +the range the temperature being 66 degrees, 8.5 A.M., water boiled at +211.1 degrees in the large thermometer. 100 centigrade, and above the +boiling point in the wooden. 205.5 degrees in the small metal +thermometer. + +Between this and Goba, the path is generally through grass or tree +jungle. I noticed Exacum, Careya, Butea arborea, Ficus, Cinchona, Kydia, +Saccharum Megala fuscum masus, Spathodea, Alstonia, Bombax, Semicarpus! +AEgle Marmelos, Emblica, Panax, Elephantopus, and Lagerstraemia Reginae +succeeds about Goba: and between this and Dhumria, the country being low +and highly cultivated, presents generally the appearance of one sheet of +rice. In this march I observed one or two instances of the absolute +enclosure of Dicotyledonous trunks by Fici. This enclosure arises +entirely from the excessive tendency to cohesion between the roots and +radicles of some of the species of this genus. With these, an expert +gardener might produce any form he likes; the tendency exists in all to +throwing out additional roots; in few only to excess. In the generality +it is limited to the trunk and often to its base. Nobody can understand +this genus who cannot study it from living specimens. + +Cardiopterus is very common along the foot of these hills: it abounds +with milky juice, and in habit and some other points approaches nearer to +Chenopodiaceae than Sapindaceae. + +_December 7th_.--Returned from Jeypore, whither I had been to report on +the Caoutchouc trees. {193} + +These trees appear to be limited to the belt of jungle or toorai which +commences towards the foot of the Aka and Duphla hills, and which in the +part in which I examined them is about 8 miles wide. They are said to be +found likewise among the neighbouring villages, but I saw no instance of +this. They occur solitarily, or at most in groups of two or three. They +appear to be more frequent towards the immediate base of the hills, and +to prefer the drier parts of those humid and dense forests called toorai. +They are frequently of vast size, and by this as well as their dense +head, may be at once recognised even at a distance of a few miles. Some +idea of their size may be formed from the following measurements of a +large one: + +Circumference of main trunk, 74 feet +Ditto, including the supports, 120 " +Ditto, of space covered by crown branches, 620 " +Height, ditto ditto, 80 to 100 " + +The roots spread out in every direction on reaching the ground; the +larger running along the surface, their upper portion being uncovered: +occasionally they assume the form of buttresses, but never to such a +marked degree as occurs in some other trees, such as the Simool, +Herietiera, etc. The supports are only thrown out towards the base of +the principal branches, not as in the banian at indefinite distances. The +trunk is a compound one, formed entirely by the mutual cohesion of roots; +not as in almost all other trees by the growth of parts in an ascending +direction. Its aspect is picturesque and varied, occasionally putting on +the appearance of sculpture. It is, I think, doubtful whether this as +well as some other species of the genus are not to be considered as +genuine parasites, at any rate they generally cause the destruction of +the tree on which they originally grew. If this be the case the +parasitism is the reverse of that which occurs in Cuscuta, in which the +plantule draws its first nourishment from the earth, relinquishing this +when sufficiently developed to enable it to draw its supply from other +plants. I may here observe, that parasites are common on the peepul, +contrary to the statement of M. DeCandolle. + +The destruction of the foster-mother takes place by the mutual +interlacement of the roots, which descending irregularly, form at first a +strong net-work, subsequently becoming a cylindric binding, in the +strongest possible way to the trunk, and preventing all lateral +distinction. The hollow occupied by the trunk when dead may become +filled up, when this has passed away, by other roots. The adhesion of +the roots commences by abrasion of the bark, the union subsequently +becomes of the most intimate kind. The supports are perfectly +cylindrical; they become conical only towards the earth, on approaching +which they divide into roots: they are strictly descending growths, and +as such, under ordinary circumstances, they never produce leaves, etc. +Roots likewise issue from every section of the bark of sufficient depth +to reach the outer layer of wood, with the outer fibres of which they are +obviously continuous. To such an extent is this carried, that transverse +sections of young supports assume the appearance of coarse paint-brushes +or tails. The lenticells, which are very numerous, have nothing whatever +to do with their production; if the bark remains entire, no roots are +thrown out except by division of the apex. The branches ascend +obliquely, the outermost running nearly horizontally. + +The juice is obtained from the larger; that from young parts is less +thick: an exposed semi-denuded root, is selected for transverse incisions +through the bark, from which alone the juice flows, a small hole is made +in the ground immediately beneath the incised parts into which a leaf, +generally of Phrynium capitatum is placed: it is collected in this simple +manner in a very clean state, far more so than that which can be +collected from the tree in any other situation. On issuing, it is of a +very rich pure white; if good, of the consistence of cream: its +excellence is known by the degree of consistence, and by the quantity of +caoutchouc it contains. This is ascertained by rubbing a few drops up in +the palm of the hand, which causes the watery juice to separate (probably +by evaporation) from the caoutchouc which remains in the form of small, +oblong, or round portions; and by kneading this in the hand, and striking +it sharply once or twice with the fist it acquires elasticity, so that an +additional test of excellence is at once pointed out. Many incisions are +made in one tree, the juice flows rapidly at first, at the rate of sixty +drops a minute from an ordinary incision, but this soon becomes so much +diminished that it dwindles to eight. The bleeding is continued for two +or three days, when it ceases spontaneously by the formation of a layer +of caoutchouc over the wound; and it is to the commencement of this that +the rapid diminution in the number of drops is perhaps to be attributed. +The quantity obtained from one tree has not exactly been ascertained; by +some it is stated to be as much as four or five maunds, while others say +that a moderate tree will only yield one gurrah full, or about ten seers. +From the slowness with which it flows, I should consider half a maund to +be a fair average for each bleeding. The juice is, however, said to flow +faster at night, but this demands verification. + +The operation is repeated at the end of eighteen or twenty days. In +seven miles of jungle we observed eighty trees, by far the greater +portion of which were of large size. Lieutenant Vetch has made a +calculation, (on the assumption that they are equally plentiful +throughout Chardowar,) that the number in this district alone is --- +trees. + +I calculate the number to be about 20,000. There is no reason for +supposing that they are not equally abundant throughout Noadwar, nor in +fact on any line where toorai prevails between Goalpara and Bishnath; +beyond this, however, the increase in latitude may occasion their +decrease both in number and size. On the southern side of the valley +there is every reason to believe it to be equally common. The general +geographic range may hence be said to be in latitude 24 degrees, to 26.5 +degrees in longitude. It has been stated by Mr. Royle that it does not +extend beyond Pundua, Jynteapoor, and Churra Punjee, but on no other +authority than that it had not been found elsewhere. + +Taking the number of trees at 20,000, and the produce of each from four +bleedings at two maunds, the annual supply that may be obtained from +Durrung may be estimated at 13,000 maunds of the caoutchouc itself, +assuming Dr. Roxburgh's proportion of one to three to be nearly correct. +Some idea may be formed of the extent to which it is procurable, when +from the mere outskirts of the forest, 300 maunds of juice may be +collected in one month. + +On the excellence of the Assam product as compared with that of America, +it does not become me to pronounce. If strength, elasticity, clearness, +and perfect freedom from viscidity, be tests of excellence, then this +product may be considered as equal to any other. It has been pronounced +by persons in Calcutta to be excellent, but no details have been entered +into except by Mr. Bell, who objects to its snapping: if by this we are +to understand snapping on being pulled too much, in contradistinction to +breaking, it only proves its excellence. It is declared to be inferior +to the American by Mr. McCosh, evidently on examination of the worst +possible specimens. + +The size of the trees as they generally occur in the limits above alluded +to, entirely precludes all idea of any great liability to be destroyed by +the extraction of juice, the amount of which must be so minute, compared +to that of the whole tree. Still it may be considered desirable for the +security of the tree to limit the bleedings to the cold months, and this +is rendered more necessary by the inferiority of the juice during the +season of active vegetation. And if it be possible to limit the number +of bleedings of each tree to four or five during the above period, I +consider that the present 3,000 stock cannot fail to be kept up. But to +venture on still larger supplies, to meet the demand for this most useful +article, a demand to which limits can scarcely be assigned, the formation +of plantations should be encouraged, the sites chosen to be near the +villages bordering on the line of the natural distribution of the tree. +Propagation by cuttings or layers cannot fail to be of easy and rapid +application; and if we consider that the tree is the most valuable +receptacle of the lac insect, there is every reason to suppose that the +natives will readily enter into such views. + +The jungle in which the tree occurs is of the usual heavy description, +presenting in fact no one feature in particular. The trees are all of a +tropical nature, except towards the foot of the hills, when two species +of chesnut and one of alder begin to shew themselves. + + + +CHAPTER XI. + + +_Journey from Assam towards Bootan_. + +Left Gowahatti on the 21st and halted at Ameengong ghat. + +_December 22nd_, _1837_.--Left at twelve and proceeded to Hazoo, which +is nearly due west of Ameengong, and distant thirteen miles. Road, +through grassy plains; much cultivation throughout the greater part. +Passed several villages, and forded one stream. Hazoo is at the foot of +some low hills, on one of which is a temple of great sanctity with the +Booteahs. The hills above this, as well as between this and Ameengong, +abound with Cycas, many of which were once dichotomous; on these hills a +fleshy Euphorbia likewise occurs, a sure indication of barren soil. Pea- +fowl abound. The light-blue Jay figured in Hardwickii, Sterna, Haliaetus +pondicerianus, Chat, Butcher-bird, Edolius, Plovers, Hoopoe, and Ardea +indica, were met with. + +_December 23rd_.--Hazoo, a large village, extending nearly north and +south, all the houses surrounded by trees. Areca bamboos, Ficus +elastica, F. indicoides, F. religiosa, Sapotea (Mimusops) Arborea, +Erythrina. Country to the east very jheely, and one huge expanse of +paddy cultivation. Fine Loranthus, Hingtstha repens. + +_December 24th_.--Nolbaree, seventeen miles nearly, N. by W., +throughout the latter half of the way, the country consisted of highly +cultivated plains, intersected by bamboo jungles, etc. Villages very +abundant, surrounded by trees, especially bamboos. The hedges are made +of a dwarf Pandanus. Crossed four streams, two not fordable. Grallatores +and water-birds innumerable throughout, but especially after passing the +Borolia, Bec ouvert or Anastomus coromandelianus, Pelicans, Water-hens, +Divers, Ibis bengala, Cigoines (Ardea Pavonia) Syras, Mangoe-bird, large +King-fisher, Hawks abundant, of which we observed five species; this is, +generally speaking, one of the richest parts of Assam I have hitherto +seen. + +_December 25th_.--Dum Dummia, distance ten miles, direction north, +country very open, in parts less cultivated than before, scarcely any +jungle towards Dum; this is a straggling place on the banks of a small +stream called Noa Nuddee. + +The bamboo continues common, as well as Pandanus, Pterocarpus marsupium, +Bombax, Diospyros ebenum, which are the most common trees. Villages are +very numerous, but as usual, entirely concealed from view by jungle. + +_December 31st_.--Up to this morning we remained at Dum Dummia, and had +the Booteas alone been consulted, we should have remained there till to- +morrow. It is a very uninteresting place, the country consisting of one +extensive plain, diversified only by trees wherever there are villages. +There is a good deal of cultivation, chiefly however, of rice; some +sugarcane is visible, but it is of inferior quality, and evidently not +sufficiently watered. Sursoo is considerably cultivated. The river Noa +Nuddee is about seventy yards wide, with a stream of three miles an hour; +it is full of sand-banks and of quicksands, and is crossed with great +difficulty on elephants; by men it is easily fordable. The only shooting +about the place is Floriken, which are very abundant, ten or twelve being +seen in one day. + +We left for Hazareegoung, a Bootea-Assam village to the north. We passed +through a similar open country not much cultivated, but overrun with +grassy vegetation. The path was of the ordinary description, and not +kept at all cleared: crossed a small stream twice, with a pebbly bed and +sub-rapids, a sure indication of approaching the hills. These, in their +lower portion, have a very barren appearance, but this may arise from the +cultivated patches: land-slips are of very frequent occurrence. + +The grasses of the enormous plains, so prevalent every where in this +direction, are Kagaia, Megala, Vollookher, Saccharum spontaneum, this is +soft grass, and affords an excellent cover for game, Cymbopogon hirsutum, +which is more common than the C. arundinaceum, Erianthus, Airoides, +Rottboellia exaltata, Arundo, (?) Anatherum muricatum, Apluda, Trizania +cilearis, is common in the old rice khets. + +Among these occur a tall Knoxia, Plectranthus sudyensis, and P. +uncinatus. + +I observed Vareca, Grislea, about Dum Dummia. Elytrophorus is common in +rice khets. + +Towards Hazareegoung we came on a high plain, covered principally with S. +spontaneum. Among this occurred Lactuioides, Premna herbacea, Grewia, +with here and there Pterygodium. I observe here Bootea bamboo baskets +made water-proof by caoutchouc; this is a practice much adopted by the +Booteas: and the trees are here. The large coloured stipulae are +peculiar to the young shoots cultivated, they are often a span long. The +young fruit is enveloped by three large coloured scales, which originate +from the annuliform base; this is hence a peduncle, not a bracte, as I +before supposed. + +January 1st, 1838.--Halted. + +_January 2nd_.--Marched to Ghoorgoung, a small village, eight miles +from Hazareegoung and nearly due north. We crossed similar grassy +tracts: the country gradually rising as we approached the hills. + +Very little cultivation occurred. Crossed the Mutunga, now dry, but the +breadth testifies to its being a large stream in the rains, as the +boulders do to its being a violent one. The same plants continue; small +jungle or wood composed of Simool. Trophis aspera, Cassia fistula, +Bauhinia, Butea scandens, Byttneria, underwood of Eranthemum, and another +Acanthacea. + +About this place Cnicus and Arundinaria occur, and a small Santalaceous +or Olacineous plant, with the habit of a Polygala. Merops apiaster is +very common. + +_January 3rd_.--To Dewangeri, distance eight miles. + +Our route hither lay for the greater portion up the bed of the Durunga, +the stream of which makes its exit about one mile to the west of +Ghoorgoung. After ascending its bed for some time, the ascent becomes +steep, for perhaps 800 or 1,000 feet, when we reached a portion of +Dewangeri, but two or three hundred feet below the ridge on which the +village is situated. The hills bounding the watercourse are very steep, +many quite perpendicular, owing to having been cut away; generally they +are of decomposed granite as at Dacanara, in some parts of conglomerate. + +The torrent contains but little water, and very few fish, the banks are +wooded tolerably well, as soon as the lower barren ranges are past. + +At the base Cassia fistula, Leguminous trees, Artemisia, Simool, +Spathodea, Bignonia indica, Sterculia, Caesalpinea, Phlogacanthus +thyrsiflorus, Paederia faetida, Eugenia, Rhamnea, Croton malvaefoliis are +found among the usual grasses, which form the chief vegetation. + +These continue along the sandy bed for some time, but afterwards the +usual small Andropogons usurp their place. Anthistiria arundinacea +continue longest; with some of the large Saccharum, Rubus moluccanus soon +appears, with Melica latifolia, and a species of Rhus. + +_Leptospartion_ is very common up to 1,000 feet, Pandanus 3-500 feet, but +soon ceases; the higher precipices abound with an elegant palm tree, +habitu Cocos. + +Fleshy urticeae and Aroideum become common at 300 feet, along the shaded +watery banks, and continue so long as shade and humidity are found. +Equisetum commences at 300 feet, Arundo, Saurauja, Pentaptera, which last +ascends to 1,000 feet, as does Dillenia speciosa, Castaneae feorox +commences at 500 feet. Between this and the Choky, Polypodium, +Wallichianum arboreum, Davallia grandis, Oxyspora, Musci, Goodyera, and +Composita arborea are found. + +At the Choky, the elevation of which is 965 feet, OEsculus begins. +Wallichia,* OEschynanthus, Urtica gigas,* Derngia,* Govania,* Anthistiria +arundinacea, Alstonea, Angiopteris, are found. Grislea is found as high +as 1,000 feet. Ficus obliquissima is found at 300 feet, and Ficus altera +species as high as 700 feet. + +At 1,200 feet Rubi sp., Panax, Cordia, are found, and on the steep +ascent, Hastingsia,* Gordonia, Eurya, Corisanthera, Griffithia. + +At one place the jack fruits, Ficus elastica, Compositi arborea, Panax +altera species. + +Dewangeri occupies a ridge 200 feet above our halting place, the +elevation of which is 2,031 feet. The view to the north is confined to a +ravine of 1,500 feet deep, at the bottom of which runs a considerable +mountain torrent: to the SW. plains are visible, to the east and west the +view is hilly. + +The village itself is a poor one, containing perhaps sixty houses, but +these are divided into three or four groups; the houses, with the +exception of three or four stone and lime ones, are of the usual build, +viz. of bamboo, and raised on muchauns. Filth and dirt abound every +where, and the places immediately contiguous to the huts are furnished +plentifully with various ordures. + +Along the ridge three or four temples occur, these are of the +Boodhistical form: they are composed entirely of slate, are white-washed; +none are of any size, and the workmanship is rude in the extreme; on each +face of the square basement, slabs of slate with inscriptions are +visible, and in one instance many of these are ranged along a longish +wall. The Pagodas are surrounded with long banners, with inscriptions +fastened longitudinally to bamboos. On the west side of this the view is +remarkably pretty, embracing all the temples, part of the village, and +the Rajah's house. The hills adjoining being considerably diversified +and remarkable, and for India over picturesquely wooded. + +The pucka houses are ungainly structures, the height being out of all +proportion to the width, the walls are very thick, and composed of slate +slabs, the roof is choppered with projecting eaves, the windows are very +narrow. Each has three stories, the middle one being occupied by the +owner, this is divided into several rude compartments, each of which has +one or two balconies. + +The steps are rude and awkward, consisting of notches cut into large +blocks. The cooking is carried on, on the ground floor, much to the +edification of the residents above. Dirt abounds in every direction. The +doors are rudely constructed of wood. + +_January 4th_.--To-day was occupied by moving up into the village, in +which we occupy a pucka house. + +_January 5th_.--Visited the Sooba or Rajah, his house is very +picturesque, reminding me much of the pictures of Swiss cottages: it is +white-washed, with a red belt. The interior is capacious; the state room +has hangings, which are decorated with native pictures on cloth. At the +east end is a recess in which are some well-executed Chinese statues, the +chief figure is of large dimensions, and is intended to represent the +Durmah Rajah, whose statue is supposed to give infallibility. Two bells +were suspended, one from the centre, the other from the balcony, the +tongues of which were long, of ivory, and moved by a string. The Rajah +received us in state, amidst discordant sounds of horns, pipes, and +drums; his followers for the most part were badly clothed, the few decent +looking persons being only decent externally. He was seated on a raised +dais and was well dressed. He is a stout Chinese looking man, about 50 +years old, and his deportment was certainly easy and dignified. The +meeting was very friendly, but it is evident that we shall be delayed +here at least seven days. + +The central room in the Rajah's house is used as a guard house! arms were +fixed round the walls, but they seemed to consist chiefly of spears, +swords, and bucklers. + +_January 6th_.--I walked this morning to a village, a mile to the west, +in which there is a picturesque pucka house of religion. What pleased me +especially was a specimen of a juniper, of extreme elegance, with +drooping branches. The house itself was of the usual form, and one end +was occupied as usual by an ornamental window and balcony. I noticed in +addition Ulmus and Quercus. + +The vegetation hitherto seen about this, consists of mango trees, several +species of fig, among which were Ficus indica, elastica, terminalioides, +Papyrifera, etc. two with cordate leaves occur. Ulmus, Quercus, Bombax, +Juniperus and Pinus, both cultivated. Aralia or Panax, four or five +species, Croton malvaefolium, Justicia, Adhatoda, Peristrophe, +Amaranthaceae, Artemisia, Urtica urens? and heterophylla, Pogostemon, +Triumfetta, (these occupy the old cleared spots,) Castaneae sp.? +Artocarpus integrifolium, Erythrina, Sambucus ebulus, Rubi, three +species, Solanum farinaceum, Engeldhaardtia, Pandanus, Leptospartion, +Calamus, Nauclea, Euphorbia carnosa, foliis ligulatis, Artocarpus +chaplasha, the fruit of which is eaten, Phlebochiton extensus, Sedgwickia +cerasifolia, Callicarpa arborea, Porana, Randia, sugarcane, citrons, +tobacco. + +The fauna contains two or three squirrels, one of which is the small one +of Upper Assam, Trocheloideus, the lesser Edolius or Drongo minor. +Mainas, two kinds, carrion crows, Bucco, Muscipeta flammea, and one or +two other species, Parus, two or three species, kites, large +tailor-birds, sparrows. The black-bird of the torrents, and the usual +water-birds, black pheasants; bulbuls very common, Bucco barbatus, +parroquets, barking deer. + +The temperature being 58 degrees 61', water boiled at 208 degrees. The +mean of two observations accordingly gives the altitude as 2,165 feet +above the sea. + +The number of houses is about 130, but these form two or three detached +villages. The population is considerable, and there is no want of +children. The people are stout and very fair, with ruddy cheeks, but +abominably dirty. Some of the men are six feet in stature. We had one +opportunity of witnessing their practice with the bow, but only two or +three of the dozen candidates were decent shots. The mark was a very +small one, and the distance 120 steps, but none hit it during the time we +looked on, nor even the circular patch of branches, on which the slab of +wood of this form was placed. The practice was accompanied with the +usual proportion of noise and gesticulations. + +There is very little cultivation on the hills around, so that this people +are, at least about here, evidently dependent on the plains for their +supplies. The cattle are a good breed, and totally different from those +of the plains. Ponies and mules are by no means uncommon; there are +likewise pigs and fowls, both of which are abundant, and of fine +description. + +_January 16th_.--Every thing leads me to conclude that the Booteas are +the dirtiest race in existence, and if accounts be true, they are equally +deficient in delicacy. Although much beyond other mountain tribes +inhabiting either side of the Assam valley, in the structure of their +houses, in their clothing, in their language, and probably in their +religion, they are inferior to them in other points. Thus their looms +are perhaps really primitive, and of the most simple construction; +neither in their weapons of defence are they at all superior. + +On the 14th I ascended a peak to the eastward, and certainly 1,000 feet +above the village: on the summit of this, where there were the remains of +an old clearing, I observed Pyrus, Acer, Rhus, Tetrantherae, three or +four species, Bigonia species picta, Carex, Composita arborea, Pteris +aquilina, Kydia zyziphifolia, Saurauja, Eurya, Maesa Panax, Artemisia, +Hedyotis scandens, Callicarpa arborea, Camellia, Caelogyne, Oberonia, +Otochilus fuscescens, Ficus, Cinnamomum, AEschynanthus, Pholidota, +Cyrtandra, Piper, Citrus, Corysanthera, Hypoxis, Tupistra, Bambusa. + +Sanicula appeared at 2,500 feet with Bartramea spectabilis, and a small +Ophiorhiza, Acer at 2,800 feet, as likewise Rhopala; at 2,000 feet, +Costus and Abroma, Thunbergia grandiflora. + +_January 19th_.--I find that large quantities of Mungista or madder are +sent to the plains from this, where the plant is very common; it is +exchanged for ill preserved salt-fish, one bundle of madder for one fish. +This fish is of an abominable odour, and probably tends to increase the +natural savour of the Booteas, which, considering their total +unacquaintance with soap, is sufficiently strong. + +P. tells me that the Kampo country is situated north of this, and that it +may be reached by a Kampo, in twenty-six days. + +The language of the people we are now among, is distinct from that of +Assam, as will be observed from the names given to the common grains +cultivated in both countries, their principal grain is barley, which is +of a fine description; very little cultivation being carried on here, the +people drawing all their supplies from the plains. The following is a +list of grains cultivated: those marked * are Cerealea:-- + + _Assam_. _Bootea_. + +1* Lalkonee dhan, Yungra, )Panici sp. +2* Legaid ditto, Ditto, ) + +3 _Boot_, Tel, Hnam, A Sesamum. + +4 _Cultivation_ in Upper Assam, Braime, (Polygonum Fago- + (pyrum, grains + (very large. + +5* Bhobosa, Khongpo, Eleusine sp. +6* Goomdam, Peihnam, Zea Mays. +7 Gellei-ma, Linjee, Phaseoli sp. + +[Gradient Bootan: g204.jpg] + +The palm from the cliffs on the road hither is evidently a species of +Phaenix, pinnulis inferioribus spiniformibus reticula copiosa, pinnulis +liniaribus acuminatissimus, apicem versus canaliculatis reticulo copioso, +the height must be about that of a moderate Areca. No specimens of the +trunk, none of flowers and seeds have been brought to me. + +The temples here have a good deal of the Burmese shape, but the dome is +more like that of a Mussulman mosque. + +_January 22nd_.--Yesterday evening Mr. Blake's Khidmutgar died rather +suddenly, he had been ailing for some days, but apparently not serious; +his indisposition was owing to over-loading the stomach with radishes, +etc. in which all partook too freely during the protracted halt, thus +causing a good deal of sickness. + +This place is so straggling that it is difficult to make a guess at the +number of the houses, the greater number of the people are temporary +residents and mostly are natives of Kampo,{205a} they are more dirty than +the Booteas, and seem to have an especial predilection for begging. When +wishing to be very gracious they bow and gesticulate awkwardly, shewing +their tongue at the same time. Their principal dress is coarse woollen +clothes, and in lieu of turbans they wear caps or hats. Their beasts of +burden are principally asses, which are perhaps, from bad treatment, +undersized: they likewise use goats, and largish animals between goats +and sheep in appearance; of these we saw one male only, it had _once_ +_spiral_ horns. Even a little black kid was not exempt from carrying its +share, this was ornamented by woollen tassels of a red colour, fastened +through a hole in the ear. + +Pemberton tells me, that most of these people come hither with the view +of going to Hazoo, a place of pilgrimage in Assam; some remain here as a +security for the return of their brethren in three months, the period +during which leave is granted by our friend the Rajah of this place. +Their language is totally different from that of the Booteas. The day +before yesterday an edict against catching fish, being taken off as I +supposed it would be on shewing the Rajah some flies, Blake and I went +down, and repeated our visit yesterday; the bed of the river at the +debouchment of the path leading towards Tongsa, is elevated 1,431 feet, +(70.209.8), {205b} it is of no great size, and is generally fordable; the +fish are almost exclusively Bookhar. {205c} I saw one or two +Sentooreahs, {205d} and caught a long thin Bola, {206a} beautifully +banded with purplish-blue. The Bookhars as usual take a fly well, +especially red hackles; the largest was caught by Blake, and must have +weighed nearly three pounds. + +Very little worth noticing occurred in the vegetation. Sedgwickia is +common and of very large size, 2,400 feet above the river, as well as +tree ferns. + +Equisetum occurs in the bed of the river; in some places at the same +level a species of Ranunculus, Aroidea, Succulent Urticeae were common; +along the edges or in the small churs, that have established themselves +here and there, and which are covered with the usual Sacchara, but of +smaller size; Erythrina, Leptospartion, Sambucus, Boehmeria tomentosa, +Kydia calycina, Grislea, Tupistra, Leea occurred, Ficus elastica is not +uncommon, one specimen presented itself, which had sprung up on another +tree, fifty feet from the ground; this it had destroyed, and the +appearance was singular enough. + +The juice is used for water-proofing bamboo vessels. The general rocks +are slate, and this was the only one we saw _in situ_; the vegetation +is rather barren. + +Near the bed of this river, which is called the Deo Panee, I found a +curious Menispermous genus, Columnea, Clypeae perianthia uncialata, ore +integeriuscula, a Myrtacea, Uncaria, Abroma augusta, etc. + +On ascending, Murraya exotica, Magnoliaceae, Paederia faetida, and +Bignonia, occurred at low elevations, Lobelia baccata, Wulfenia obliqua, +Costus, Chloranthus, Justicea orchidiflora below 600 feet, Eurya occurred +scarcely below 1,800 feet with Millingtonia simplicifolia. + +The cattle here are really noble, particularly the bulls; they are much +like the Mishmee Methuns, but are distinct, {206b} they are very quiet. + +_January 23rd_.--Left at twelve, and arrived late at Rydang on a +nullah, distant eight miles. Passed no villages, but passed a bridge +erecting over the Deo Nuddee, at which place a Lam Gooroo or high Priest +was employed: vegetation continued the same, and only two new plants +occurred, a Stemodia with large yellow flowers, and a Begonia, with +branched stems. Rydang is 2,404 feet above the sea (55.208.5.) {212} + +_January 24th_.--Started early in the morning, (at 8 A.M.) the coolies +mostly leaving at daylight. Yet although the distance was only eleven +miles, we did not reach till 5 P.M. and many of the coolies did not +arrive till late at night. The fact is the ascent was nearly +uninterrupted during the day, the highest point traversed being about +6,000 feet. We then descended slightly to Khegumpe, our halting place, +the altitude of which is 5,395 feet (46.202,) at the highest point Fahr. +thermometer stood at 42 degrees at 1 P.M. + +The first part of the road lay over grassy sparingly-forested hills, +until we reached 4,000 feet. Here or a little below this the change in +the vegetation commenced, the first elevational plants being Serissoid; +Gaultheria, and Rhododendron commenced at about 3,600 feet on dry rocky +eminences, which it always prefers. + +On the 1st eminence, 600 feet above Rydang or 3,000 feet above the sea, +Quercus, Castanea, Sedgwickia, Polypodium Wallichii, Lobelia, +Pyramidalis, Composita arborea, Gordonia, Pteris aquilina, Anthistiria, +Gramen airoides, Callicarpa arborea, Artemisia, Tephrosia, Flemingia, +Govania, and these continued up to 4,000 feet. We here met with Kampo +Tartars with their laden sheep, the children being generally placed +cradle-fashion on the top of the loads, each in its own basket. Itea +macrophylla occurred at 3,200 feet, with Clematis, Hastingsia, Bignonia, +Euphorbiacea, Briedleia. + +At 3,300 feet Kydia zyziphifolia, Rhopala, Composita arborea, Hypericum,* +Triumfetta, Smilax, Indigofera.* + +At 3,600 feet, the same with Panax, Wendlandia, Myrtacea arborea, l. +Melica latifolia. + +At 3,800 feet, Hedychium, Gaultheria, Habenaria, Serissoides, Gnaphalium, +Gordonia, here very abundant, covered with Lichens and epiphytical +Orchidea, Phyllanthus, Emblica. + +At 4,000 feet, Rhododendron arborea, Eugenia, l. Gaultheria arborea, +Echinanthus, Bambusa, microphylla.* The same trees continue. + +At 4,200 feet, Hedychium, Briedleia, Pyrus, Ficus,* and Rhododendron in +flower, Gordonia, Itea macrophylla, Pteris aquilina, Osbeckia nepalensis, +Artemisia major, Airoides, Flemingia. + +At 4,500 feet, Myrica, Callicarpa arborea, Verbenaceae, Buddlaeoid,* +Ardisia, Maesa, Panax, Piper, Styrax, Camellia,* Polygonum rhaeoides, +Cyrthandra common, Mimosa arborea, Betula,* Ficus, foliis cordatis +hispidis, Kydia calycina, Inga, Rubus moluccanus. Anisadenia, Begonia, +Otochilus latifolius, Tussilaginoides, Neckerae, Urtica, Gaylussacia, +Lobelia, Panax, AEschynanthus venosus of Churra,* Lycopodium of +Surureem,* Smilax ruscoideus,* Liparis, Rhododendron arboreum verum, +Bucklandia of vast size. Hoya fusca, Ophiopogno, Viola, Hymenophyllum, +Croton heterophyllum, Convallaria oppositifolia, Plectranthus Roylii, +Begonia picta, Isachne, Cerastium, Spiraea, Hedera, Hypericum, +Peliosanthes, Carex gracilis rupium, which commenced at 5,500 feet, +Bambusa microphylla. + +The forests here were damp and tropical so far as herbaceous underwoods +were concerned, the trees were loaded with mosses chiefly pendulous +Neckerae and Hypnea, as well as the rocks, Epiphytes were common. + +We then continued along ridges about the same elevation, Ranunculus, +Hemiphragma, Thibaudia buxifolia, Polygonum rheoides, Pyrus indica. +Gnaphalium common, Pteris aquilina, Airoides, Artemisia on sunny spots, +Gaultheria, Galium of Churra, Arundo. The trees were about this all +scraggy, but of picturesque appearance. Choripetalum, Panax, Laurineae,* +Piper, Cissus, Photinia and Gleichenia major, Thibaudia myrtifolia,* +Potentilla, Calophyllum,* Hydrangea arbuscula,* Thalictrum majus,* +Crawfurdia speciosa,* Macrocapnos,* Daphne papyrifera.* + +Our march now wound round a huge hill with rocky head, lowering several +hundred feet above us, the road being narrow, rocky, overhanging vast +precipices. All the trees were scraggy, stunted with tufted grasses. +Here about Dipsacus of Churra occurred, Buddleia, Phlomoides, Lonicera, +Rosa, _Jubrung_, Cheilanthes dealbata of Brahmakund, Asparagus, Urticea +arborea floribus faem. capitulatis aurantiaces, Spiraea bella, +Hymenopogon, Saxifraga ligularis,* on the rocks Primula,* in the +crevices, with Hydrocotyla, Thalictrum renatum, Umbelliferae,* Scirpus, +Stemodia, Compositae, Hypericum, Didymocarpus contortus of Oklong, +Erianthus, Gymnostomum, all these on the bare rocks. Along the path, +Codonopsis, Cnicus, Valeriana, Hardwickia, Lobelia. + +Hence we passed along nearly at the same elevation through romantic +paths, the vegetation being European, and comparatively open: the trees +covered with moss, with grassy swards here and there: the scenery was +beautiful, the descent hence to Khegumpa was gradual and easy, along +similar paths. + +Noticed the following trees, etc. in the following order: Tetranthera, +Gaultheria arborea, Tradescantia cordifolia,* Acer, Polygala, Deutzia, +Tradescantia, Jasminum triphyllum, Plectranthus azureus, Macrocapnos, +Rubia cordifolia,* Cucurbitacae Cissampeloid, then forests of +Rhododendron, on the paths Swertia, Potentilla, Fragaria, Alnus Acer +folius palmatum lobatis oppositis, Porana. + +This day I gathered about 130 species, the march was really delightful. +The plants marked thus * indicate elevation. + +Madder is furnished by both Rubia munjista and R. cordifolia, these +species are quite distinct, the latter affecting greater elevations than +the former, scarcely descending below 4,000 feet. + +Scarcely any water occurred on the route; from just above Khegumpa, a +beautiful valley is seen to the left, with a good deal of cultivation. No +large villages were seen. + +[Gradient Rydang to Khegumpa: g210.jpg] + +_January 25th_.--Khegumpa. This is a pretty place; but the whole +country has a wintry appearance from the trees having mostly deciduous +leaves; it is a small village, not containing twelve houses. Pagodas +with the inscription-bearing walls occur as usual; on a small hill rising +from just below the village, a large house with out-houses belonging to a +Lam Gooroo, is the prettiest bit of architecture I have yet seen. We put +up in a small house, of the usual poor construction, capable of +containing four or six people, the roofs are of wood, the planks being +kept down by stones. The evening was very cold, but the thermometer did +not fall below 44 degrees. Here a solitary specimen of Pinus was seen. + +A beautiful tree, with pendulous leaves and cones, which resemble those +of Abies, occurred. Rhododendron is common here. Around the hut I +observed Lobelia, Rumex, Quercus, Ranunculus, Plantago, Leucas ciliata, +Gnaphalia, Rubus, Urtica urentior, Rubi 2, Pteris aquilina, Geranium, +Galium, Artemisia major, Fragariae, Betula? ramis pendulis, foliis +lineari lanceolatis, _Jubrung_, Phlomoides, in flower, Spiraea bella, +Tetranthera, Daucus, Gleichenia major, Oxalis corniculata, Dipsacus. The +trees were covered with Lichens; the only cultivated plants I saw, and of +these only straggling individuals, were tobacco and Bhobosa. + +In a wood at the base of the hill on which the Lam Gooroo's house is +situated, Saurauja hispida, and S. arborea,* Woodwardia,* Rubia +cordifolia, Oaks, Spiraea bella, decomposita, Stemodia, Cerasus, +Curculigo, Pogonatherum,* Carduus, Polygonum rheoides, Panax, Bucklandia, +Berberis asiatica and Porana, occurred. + +Our march, after passing this hill, commenced by a descent through a damp +wood of Oaks, Eurya. Here Swertiae 2 occurred on banks. Clematis +verbesina, Gordonia, Erythrina, Myrica. Thence we passed along a ridge, +the forests being stunted and wintry, abounding with Rhododendron and +oaks. Myrica, and pendulous lichens occurred in abundance, but grasses +predominate, chiefly Airoid and Andropogons. + +From this to the right was seen a beautiful valley with a moderate-sized +village and picturesque houses, with considerable and very clever +cultivation. + +Thence we crossed to the other side of the ridge, descending a little and +then continuing through forests of oak, consisting of a species found on +the Khasyah hills, and approaching Q. Robur: as all the leaves had +fallen, the whole appearance was that of winter. Here I shot the Jay +figured in Royle's work: continuing to descend very gradually, I observed +Epilobium,* Neckera, Fissidens, Brachymenium, Nerioideum in fruit and +half buried in the fallen leaves; a pretty Gentiana, Ruta albiflora, +Potentilla. After passing along this for some way we commenced a sharp +descent. At about 4,800 ft. Vitex simplex, occurred. Indigofera +re-appeared, with Saccharum rubro nitens of Churra, the other grasses +being Andropogons, 2-3, and Orthopogon, Hedychium, Gordonia soon +re-appeared: to the east, cultivation was visible, and to the north, +Pines were visible in every direction stretching away far below us to a +considerable torrent. About one-third of the way down this steep ravine, +at the bottom of which a torrent was heard roaring, Wendlandia, Spiraea +bella, Hedychium, Gaultheria arborea, Aspera Rhododendron, Pteris +aquilina, Artemisia, Saurauja hispida, Indigofera, Eurya, Mimosa arborea, +Maesa angustifolia of yesterday; Osbeckia nepalensis, Viburnum, +Tetranthera, Ficus, Gleichenia minor, Crawfurdia speciosa, Polygonum +rheoides, were found. Hitherto the woods had been dry, or rather so, but +on turning to the east, we came into damp woods presenting many tropical +features, along which we continued descending gradually for some time: at +the commencement in this, Callicarpa arborea, a weeping Beech, Dipsacus +verbesina, and the Alnus, of Thumathaya occurred, Arbutoideus, Hydrangea, +Urtica heterophylla, Neuropeltoid aromatica. Then below we came on +Piper, Deeringia, Cerasus, Sanicula, Cyrtandracea, Cheilosandra gracilis, +and fleshy Urticeae. Underwood, herbaceous forms of Acanthaceae, Ferns, +as Davallia, Asplenium, all more or less succulent. Darea, Glycine, +Buchanania, Saurauja ferruginea, Thalictrum majus, Pothos, etc. +Hypericum, Begonia, Panax terebinthaceus, Magnoliacae, Garciniae, +Valeriana cordifolia.* Passing on at the same elevation, we suddenly +rounded a ridge, and in one moment came on dry, sunny, rocky, grassy +ground, the trees being exclusively Rhododendron, oaks and a few +Gordonias with Airoid, Andropogons, Pteris aquilina: we then came on the +brink of the ridge up to which Pinus longifolia ascends; the elevation of +this was 4,132 feet (60.204.5.) {212} From this all around Pinus is +visible in profusion; we then dipped to the south, this face being +occupied by thick forest, having Rhododendrons on the skirts. From the +above spot Saleeka was visible, with a fine grove of Pines, it is 1,500 +feet, at least above this. + +The descent was steep, we soon came on Callicarpa arborea, Celtis megala, +Pogostemon, Stemodia grandiflora; this was about 4,300 feet, where a +clearing had been commenced: close to this I observed Martynia, Pteris, +Composita arborea, Desmodium vestilum, Flemingia, and gathered at 4,000 +feet a Verbenaceous shrub, looking like a Plumbago, and a Boehmeria; +continuing, without descending much, I came on Pinus, Rhododendron, +Gaultheria. + +Loranthus was here a common parasite on Pinus, oaks occurred but the +species was changed; this had small leaves, white underneath; and +descending we continued through pine woods, Artemisia minor, together +with the usual grasses and Aspideium macrosomum. + +Here we travelled along a hill just above a ravine. Either side of this +was covered with grasses and pines, the ravine being crowded with oaks, +etc. Panax, and Composita arborea occurred. + +A little below this, Hastingsia, common, Desmodium hispidisum, Artemisia +minor, Briedelia, Mimosa, and several Compositae: we continued descending +very steeply, and observed Holcus elegans, Melica latifolia, Erianthus +Apludoid Circium. + +At 2,600 feet, came on Scutellaria; Pines had ceased, but on the opposite +side of the nullah, they descended lower. Knoxia scandens, Kydia +calycina, Hastingsia, Hedyotis linearis, Ficus pedunculis radiciformibus +pendulis, Leguminous trees as Dalbergia, Triumfetta; Boehmeria, +Asparagus, Buchanania again, Solanum, 10-dentat., Urtica urens,--l. +(66.208.5.) {212} + +The altitude of the bed of the Cameon nullah is here, 1,937 feet, its +banks are formed by hills cut away and hence precipitous, those to the +east are covered with Pines, Oaks descend to this. Here Arundo Karka, +Leptospartion, Erythrina, Artemisia major, Solanum farinaceum, black +pheasants of which I shot a male. Ficus Dumooriya, Grislea, Rhamnoid +scandens, Pandanus, Boehmeria torrentum, Urtica pendula, Barleria +Prionites of Dgin, Sida cuneifolia, Dalbergioid. + +Thence we ascended 100 feet or thereabouts, and descended to another and +larger torrent. Anonaceae, Phlogacanthus thyrsifloris here occurred. + +The bed of this stream is 70 to 80 yards wide, but the volume of water is +inconsiderable. The hills forming the opposite bank are lofty, not under +4 to 5,000 feet; their bases and the nullah above alluded to have the +vegetation of Dgin, otherwise they are clothed with the usual grasses and +noble Pines. The brown bird with crooked bill was heard here. + +At 500 feet above the torrent Menispermum, Bidens albiflora, Megala, +Leptospartion, Verbenacea, Plumbaginea, Mucuna, Desmodium hispidum and +Ficus were seen as before: Phyllanthus, Emblica, and Grislea occurred at +800 feet: Grewia at 1,000 feet: and Osbeckia linearis occurred at 1,200 +feet in rocky places; with Poa, Cynosuroides of Churra, and Bassia at +1,300 feet, with Emblica, Labiata sudyensis, Osbeckia nepalensis, Ficus. + +On rounding the ridge to the east, which is 200 feet above this place +_Sassee_, we came on a forest of oak, Rhododendron, Viburnum, Pothos +pinnatus. + +_January 26th_.--Sassee. Our coolies left us here, they are not very +good ones, not equal to Khasyah, they are however merry, and whistle or +sing when tired, their feet are generally naked, but occasionally they +wear leathern sandals. Thermometer 60 degrees: water boiled at 204.5 +degrees: altitude 4,109 feet. + +About this place I first met with Thlaspi bursa pastoris, Malva +rotundifolia also occurs, Ligustrum, Adhatoda! Euphorbia ramis 4-gonis, +foliis? in spinis abeuntibus! Bambusa, Urtica urentior, Geranium, Rumex +of Khegumpa, Pancratium or Crinum! Peristropha triflora, Holcus elegans, +Pteris aquilina both Artemisias, Panicum cynosuroides! Stemodium +ruderalis! Callicarpa arborea! Cerasus, Pyrus indica and malus, Barleria +prionitis! Ervum, Hedychium coronarioides! in wet places, Buchanania, +Peperomia, Moschosma! Dendrobium! Thibaudia myrtifolia, Gordonia, +Dioscorcae! Tetrantheroid arbor magna, Pinus longifolia, Quercus, 2-sp. +Rhus, Citrus also is found. Thus the mixture of forms is nearly +excessive, those marked ! thus indicate usually low elevations. Rubia +cordifolum. + +The whole four leaves of this plant are petiolate, but one pair is +perhaps always unequal, one occasionally abortive, I look upon this as a +proof that the so-called stipulae of Stellatae are real leaves. There is +this difference then between Rubiaceae and Stellatae, the one has covered +buds, the other not. The development of the lamine before the petiole is +particularly conspicuous in this plant. + +Buck-wheat with trisulcate seeds, and Cannabis sativa are found here; +barley is cultivated. + +_January 27th_.--Sassee: temperature 58 degrees, big metal thermometer. +Tomato found here; Leptospartion ascends woody ravines as far as this; of +birds, the larger dove is abundant; Verbena officinalis. + +_January 28th_.--On walls about this a Lobelia, and Stemodia ruderalis +occurred. Sassee is a ruined village, said once to have been large, now +containing not more than five or six houses, an equal number being in +ruins. + +_January 29th_.--Commenced to descend almost immediately, until we +reached the Giri Nuddee, we then ascended again 5,600 feet, and continued +over excessively precipitous rocky ground, until we reached the nullah +again. + +The same vegetation continued until we had descended some hundred feet. +Pinus, Quercus, Rhododendron, Viburnum, Indigofera, Osbeckia nepalensis, +Desmodium, Gaultheria arborea, Rubus, deltoidifolius, Conyza, Saurauja +ferruginea, Crawfurdia speciosa, Labiata sudyensis, Dipsacus occurs but +is rare, Gordonia, Rubus idaeus, Gleichenia minor, Pendulous lichens, +Galium asparagus, Engeldhaardtia, Smilax. + +The descent was steep. Thibaudia myrtifolia, Peperomia, Stemodia +grandis, Airoid, Otochilus linearis. + +At 300 feet Composita arborea, and penduliflora, Polygonum rheoides, +Flemingia, and a cleared spot with Zea Mays. 400 feet Pteris aquilina, +Rubus moluccanus, Aspidium Polypodioides, Lygodium, Aspidium macrosorum, +Moschosma, Mimosa arborea, Millet, Cerasus, Hedyotis, Plectranthus, +Roylia, Knoxia Scandens, Ruta albiflora, Rottlera, commenced at 500 feet. +Stemodia, Hovenia, Cerastium, 4-Ovulatum, Carex. + +[Gradient Khegumpa to Sassee: g216.jpg] + +Carex, Kydia, Jujubifolia, Randia, Hovenia, occurred at 600 feet, with +Rhopala, Panax, Ficus obliqua. + +Then shady jungle commenced, underwood of Ferns, Acanthaceae, Urticeae, +Andropogons, Stemodia secunda occurred at 700 feet. {217a} Hastingsia, +Pogostemon, Kydia calycina, Glypea, Curculigo, 750 feet, with Clematis +Cana, Cerasus, Quercus Robur, this came down a ridge. Rhus acidissima. + +Scleria, Lycopodia, Maesa, Sterculia Balanghas, and Kydia Jujubifolia, at +900 feet. {217a} Phlomoides, Acanthacea specicosa, Pothos pinnatus, +Choulmoogrum, Malpighiacea, at 1,000 feet. {217a} Buchanania, Magnolia, +Achyranthes, Murraya exotica, Sedgwickia, Urtica Gigas, Chloranthus +inconspicuus, Peliosanthes, Phaenix pygmaea, Hedysarum acenaciferum, at +1,200 feet. {217a} + +The altitude of the bed here is 3,112 feet (64.206.2: of Woollaston, +6.4.3) {217b} and along its banks Cissus, Woodwardia, Megala, Polygonum +Rheoides, Mimosa arborea, Curculigo, Woodwardia, Andropogon fuscum, +Conaria, Potentilla, Rumex, Rubia cordifolia, Drymaria, and Begonia +occurred. + +The ascent was steep, leading over several land slips, the same +vegetation continuing. Oaks, Pines, Rhododendrons occupying the more +exposed faces, and the usual humid jungle characterising aspects not so +much exposed. Pinus longifolia strays down to within 100 feet of the +nullah. We passed a pretty cascade discharging a considerable body of +water: here at 200 feet {217a} above the nullah, I observed Crotalaria +juncea, the Betula of Thumathaya, Quercus lanatus, Leea crispa, Panax +terebinthaceus, Indigofera, Scutellaria, Clematis, Cana, Panax altera, +Mimosa, Porana, Arundo karka, Flemingia, Conyza, Aspidium macrosomum. + +At 400 feet, {217a} Itea macrophylla, Ficus, Composita arborea. The +woods are dry, but little occurring underneath the trees, except the +usual grasses, Andropogons and Airoides. At 500 feet, {217a} Thibaudia +myrtifolia, Triumfetta mollis, Composita penduliflora, Lysimachia, Pinus, +Rhododendron. The ground now became excessively rocky, the road winding +along at the same elevation, not more than a foot wide. + +At 600 feet, {217a} Desmodium vestilum, Artemisia, Acanthacea lurida, +Gentiana, as before. Gordonia, Bambusa, Microphylla, Arum viviparum, +Tussilaginoid, Wendlandia, Thibaudia, _variegatoides_, and a myrtifolia; +Sedum, rocks strewn in every direction covered with Sedum and epiphylical +orchideae. + +On rounding a ridge with a north-east aspect we came without altering our +elevation, on a humid jungle. Pothos pinnatus and red, Ferns, +Acanthaceae, Choripetalum, Calamus, Acrostichea, Blakea, Grammitis +decurrens, Moschosma. We descended through similar jungle with Pandanus +also occurring until we again changed our aspect, when the oak woods, +etc. reverted with Rhododendron and Thibaudia myrtifolia; again changing, +we returned to an intermediate jungle, gradually assuming all the humid +characters of those places passed before. Here I observed Tupistra, +Asplenium nidus, at 200 feet above the bed of a nullah. Rottleria, +Mimosa arborea, Crawfurdia, Speciosa, Zanthoxzlon triphyllum. + +Along the bed of this nullah, Crawfurdia speciosa, Potentilla, +Choripetalum, Eurya, Ranunculus, Cardamina, Juncus! Oxyspora, Saurauja +hispida, occurred; some in a sort of marsh, with Thibaudia variegatoides. +The places along which torrents formerly flowed were occupied by Typha +elephantina, Kujara, Megala, Arunda, the Alnus of Bhailseeree, Artemisia +major, Rubus deltoidifolia, (Corysanthera hispida with Juncus;) here +Anthistiria arundinacea, Artemisia minor, Bucco grandis (Bird), Polygonum +rheoides, Baehmeria torrentum, Gaultheria deflexa, Indigofera, Oaks, +Gordonia, Holcus elegans, Conaria nepalensis in flower, and Erythrina +occurred along the bed, up which we proceeded about a mile. + +We then ascended among Pines and Oaks, Callicarpa arborea, and others, +ascending up the humid ravines, which in the rains give exit to +torrents--at 300 feet noticed a different Pinus, which is observed in +abundance on a mountain on the opposite side, up which it ascends 2 or +3,000 feet. + +Callicarpa azurea, Buddleia Neemda, Eugenia, Serissoides, and the +Saccharum of Churra, occurred here. + +The ascent was continual but gradual, rounding the almost precipitous +face of the hill, the path was stony, often loose and frequently not +above a foot wide, with a precipice lowering above and yawning beneath. +The vegetation had, with the exception of the Pines, Oaks, and +Rhododendrons, all been burnt, so that the ascent was uninteresting. As +we neared the summit it became bitterly cold, a strong biting wind nearly +cutting us in two: we reached Bailfa, which is on the summit but +sheltered, at 6 P.M. + +Conaria occurs at the top! being more advanced in flower than below; in +one instance with young capsules. I noticed Pogonatherum, Didymocarpus +contortus, Serissoides, Gaultheria fruticosa, Polytrichum fuscum, +gathered at 7,000 feet, previously: at 1,200-1,500 feet above the nullah, +Indigofera reaches the top. In a sheltered place here I found a +beautiful Gaultheria; a small Campanula occurs on the rocks at from 1,000 +feet upwards. + +BAILFA or _Bulphai_.--This place is 6,808 feet above the level of the +sea, yet on the east and south are mountains towering far above it. Snow +is said to fall in February, but sparingly--the hills around are bleak, +thinly vegetated, except those on the south of the Geerea, which are more +wooded. There are only a few houses. Turnips and barley are cultivated +here, and in these fields may be found a Cruciferous annual, and probably +a small species of Lamium. The chief cultivation is visible in the +valleys below. Buckwheat is among the number. + +_January 29th_.--To-day I sallied out a few hundred yards to the west, +on turning over the ridge, the south side of which is so bleak, thinly +covered with Q. lanata and Rhododendrons, I found myself in a thick shady +jungle, the chief tree being a species of oak, widely different from Q. +lanata. The trees and shrubs are loaded with mosses, especially +pendulous Neckerae, Daltoniae, Hypne; Hookeria, Fissidens, etc. occurred +on the ground. I imagine, I gathered twenty-five species of mosses here. +Ferns were likewise abundant; I noticed Daphne papyracea, Berberis +asiatica, Conyza nivea, Smilax ruscoides, OEschynanthus venosus, Hedera, +Ophiopogon linearis, O. latifolius, Cymbidium viridiflorium, Ardisia +crenata, Carex, Piper! Clematis, Gordonia, Spiraea decomposita, Composita +volkamerifolia, Cissus, Smilax, Bambusa microphylla, Viburna, as before. +Gaylussacia serrata and microphylla, the former in fruit. Thibaudia +lanceolata, buxifolia, Gaultheria of yesterday. + +On the exposed face Santalacea, Gentiana, Hypericum decussatum of +Moflong, Leucas ciliata, Ischaemum pygmaeum, on Rhododendron, Loranthus +obovatus. The mosses of this side were Brachymenium, Tortula, Famaria, +Trichostomum, Neckerae, Polytrichum fuscum, Zygodon? Dendrobium and +Otochilus, occur here. A stray and small Abies occurs on the ridge +itself. + +About the village of Bailfa, occur Urtica urens, Artemisia major, +Saccharum aristatum, Rubus triphyllus, Senecio scandens, Rumex, +Chickweed, Stemodia ruderailis, Lactucoidea murorum, Carduus, Phlomoides, +Rubus deltoidifolies, Achyranthoid, densa. + +_January 30th_.--Thermometer at 7 A.M. 40 degrees. The houses here are +roofed with split bamboos, and they are tied on by rattans, a precaution +rendered necessary by the boisterous winds which prevail. The place is +very cold; the thermometer varying from 40 degrees to 52 degrees; mean +temperature of the day 46 degrees. + +In the barley fields I noticed Fumariae sp., Potentilla and Cynoglossum. +Erythrina ascends to this! Pyrus Malus and Spiraea bella occur. + +_January 31st_.--Our march this day commenced with an ascent of a ridge +lying to the north-east of our halting place, this occupied us some time, +and at last we reached a pagoda, visible from Bailfa, and which is nearly +1,000 feet above that place. Thence we descended about a hundred feet, +through a well-wooded situation. Emerging thence at about the same +elevation, we crossed barren bleak downs; the ravines being alone wooded, +and hence the woods had that rounded, defined appearance, so remarkable +in some parts of the Khasya hills. + +Thence the descent was continued to Roongdong, the march is an easy one, +about seven miles. + +The first new plant that occurred was an Allium on rocks, but it had been +dried up by the fires which had bared the surface of the hill of every +thing, except the trees and stouter shrubs, capable of resisting its +action. + +Toward the pagoda, on the summit of the ridge, Pendulous lichens were +abundant, Epiphytes were common, consisting chiefly of Orchideae, with +the 2 Gay Lussacias, Rhododendron punctata, Hymenopogon parasiticus, +Orthodon, Tussilaginoid, Alnus occurred at 7,300 feet. The other +vegetation continued. + +At 7,400 feet, a new Quercus appeared, this, which has in its young +state, leaves much like those of the Holly, and may therefore be called +Q. _elicifolia_! Andropogon, Viburnum caerulium, Neckera, Bambusa +microphylla, Fragaria, Potentilla, Conyza nivea, Scabiosa Spiraea +decomposita, Gillenioides, Smilax ruscoideus, Hyperica of Moflong, +Campanula, Swertia, Dipsacus. + +At 7,500 feet, Epilobium, Rosa, Vaccinium cyaneum! Rhododendron +coccineum, Tetranthera. + +At 7,800 feet, Abies pendulifolia, Hemiphragma. + +At the pagoda, and about it, Grimmia was found on rocks, with the usual +pendulous Neckerae, Q. ilecifolia, Vibura, Hypericum. + +Abies Brunoniana, a large solitary tree, with pendulous branches, +Tetranthera, Laurineae, Smilax gaultherifolia, Ilex, on the wooded side +of the ridge. Ferns and mosses were abundant, Ilex! Daphne papyracea. + +Eurya, Panax rhododendrifolia, Rhododendron arborea, minus et majus. The +tree of Thumathaya foliis ad apicem ramorum aggregatis, petiolis +colorat., Celastrinea Euryifolia, Tetranthera another species without +leaves. In the more moist places a small Urticeae, Lonicera as before, +on the exposed side stunted Q. ilecifolia, Dipsacus, Gnaphalia, Vaccinium +cyaneum, and Gramineae, Hemiphragma, Potentilla, Campanula, +Tussilaginoides. Long tailed grey monkeys. + +The ridge we crossed, runs up into a bleak ridge on which are houses, and +which cannot be under 9,500 feet high, about the descent through the +wood, which did not extend many hundred yards. I noticed Galium, +Valeriana, Crawfurdia fasciculata, Sphaeropteris Betula corylifolia, +Hypericum, Spiraea gillenioides, Rubus cordifolius, Senecio scandens, +Juncus effusoideus, in wet places, Rhododendron majus, coming into +flower, (flower white) Cerastium bacciferum, arborea, canescens, Cissus, +Rubus moluccanus, Elaeagnus, Rubus potentillifolia, Plantago, Ligustrum, +Berberis pinnata and asiatica, which last is generally covered with +lichens. + +Xanthoxylum, Lilium giganteum! Polytrichium fuscescens, Trichostomum +anielangioides, Pohlia, on walls and rocks, Adoxa! in wet places under +banks, with a fleshy Urticea: about this was observed the brick-red and +black bird. {221} + +Along the naked ridge and on the downs, which had a most wintry +appearance, and where it was bitterly cold, the Lycopodium of Surureem +was found, also Vaccinium cyaneum, Gnaphalium, Pteris aquelina stunted, +Hypericum of Moflong, Swertia stunted, Hemiphragma. + +The defined woods are formed of oaks and stray Abies pendulifolia, Panax +rhododendrifolia, Berberis asiatica, and B. pinnata. + +Mespilus microphyllus, Rhododendron minus, and R. arborea, (Euphorbia, +and Juncus on the swards.) Eurya, Gaultheria arborea, Stauntonia. From +this ridge a village near Benka is visible, as well as a large stream, +the Goomrea, and several villages. The one we now inhabit, being the +best looking and occupying a deep valley, is surrounded with much terrace +cultivation. + +Descending still farther we left the downs, first coming into the scraggy +woods of Oaks, Rhododendron, Quercus, chiefly Q. robur. About here we +met abundance of people going to Hazoo from Kampo; they were accompanied +with asses chiefly carrying burdens of one maund weight; few goats; one +yak was seen of a black colour; a low compact animal, much resembling, +except in the absence of a hump, the bison: it was not a handsome +specimen. We also passed a village to the left, containing about twenty +houses, here a Nai gooroo, or person of rank, resides, and here I also +got fruit-bearing specimens of Abies pendula. + +Noticed, as I descended, Pyrus, Cerasus, Magnoliacea, Gaultheria arborea +and frutex, Pteris aquelina, Quercus sclerophylla of Bulphai, Viburnum +caerulescens and angustifola! Rhododendron minus, Ilex! Aspid. nidus, +Gordonia, Q. lanata, Woodwardia, Rubia albiflora, Gleichenia major, Pyrus +indica. Then we came to a pretty temple built like a house, with a fine +specimen of Cypress pendula, altitude of the place 7,000 feet. From this +a fine view of Roondong is obtained. + +Still descending a short distance came to another temple, with a dome of +the ordinary form, and a large square terraced basement, and inscribed +slabs in the recesses. Hence the ascent was very steep. Erythrinum, +Buddleia! Indigofera! Spiraea bella, Artemisia major! Polygonum rheoides! +Rubus deltoidens! Curculigo, Conaria nepalensis, Thalictrum majus! +Asparagus, Jubrung! Oxalis corniculata, Clematis cana, Eurya ferruginea! +Santalacea australas, Pyrus malus! Elaeocarpus! Maesa salicifolia. We +then crossed a small torrent, and ascended about 100 feet to Roongdong; +noticed Stemodia grandiflora! Spiraea bella, Conaria, Erythrium, Elaeagnus +spinosus, Salix? buds with velvet or woolly hairs, Martynia! Hedera! +Citrus! Woodwardia. + +The transitions of the flora were this day well shewn. The plants which +indicated the greatest elevation are, Vaccinium, Abies Brunoniana, +Saxifraga, or Adoxa, Q. ilecifolia, Rhododendron formosum, R. arboreum +majus, Sphaeropteris, Ilex, Eurya acuminata? Panax rhododendrofol., Berb. +pinnata and B. asiatica, Mespilus, Microphylla, Juncus. + +The occurrence of the Urticea at such elevation is curious, the proofs of +the wonderful effects of humidity, and non-exposure were particularly +shewn, between the exposed south face of the Bulphai mountain, and the +north-east face which was wooded. + +From scarcity of grass, horses were here seen to feed on boughs so high +as to be obliged to stand on stones, to get at their food. They are +likewise fed on maize and tares; the poultry is of a large brood. The +cocks are atrociously noisy, two in particular had such lengthened, +cracked or quavering voices, that they were quite a nuisance. We put up +in the house of the Dumpa or head man. It is situated on the top of a +stony, and a bitter cold place, exposed to the four winds of heaven. +House very large, and our host a little man with great airs, and a red +coat or wrapper of coarse English cloth, drinks intensely. + +During our stay at this place he invited Pemberton and Blake to shoot +pigeons; the poor man thought that they would not be able to hit them, on +finding out his mistake, he put an end to the sport. + +Atriplex is cultivated here, Mooreesa of Assam, Hempstee of the Booteas, +though seeds are used as well as the leaves. + +The loads of salt brought down by the Tibetans on asses are packed up +neatly in coarse cloths, and weigh upwards of forty seers each. + +[Gradient Bulphai to Roongdong: g224.jpg] + +_February 1st_.--Our march commenced by descending gradually at first, +then very rapidly to the Dimree nuddee: crossing this at the junction of +two streams, we ascended a little and then kept along the side of the +ridge forming the right bank of the nuddee, until we came over the +Monass: thence proceeding about one and a half mile, we reached Tassgong +or Benka which is situated on this river, and about 1,000 feet above it. +This we crossed by a suspension bridge. + +But little interesting botany occurred to-day: Chenopodium sp. occurs in +fields at Roongdong. The terrace cultivation here had just yielded a +crop of rice, and was now planted with wheat. Agriculture would appear +to be at a low ebb, and if the country is populous, the people must be +half-starved. + +Water was abundant throughout the route: the Monass is a large stream, +but not generally very deep, although from its rapidity it must discharge +even at this season a great body of water. Composita penduliflora +descends to the Dimree, the altitude of which is about 3,000 feet, so in +fact did most of the plants found about Roongdong. Pyrus continues half- +way, Rhododendron to the bottom. Hovenia at an altitude of 5,000 feet, +Randia--as also Tetranthera oleosa, and a new Flemingia. + +At 4,900 feet, _Jubrung_ occurs.--Clematis Cana, Luculiae sp., Conyzoidea +nivea, Kydia calycina, Mimosa arborea, began at 4,800 feet: Gaultheria, +arborea, Gordonia, descend to the bottom: Crawfurdia speciosa, Oxyspora, +Aspidium, Macrostomium, and Polypodioides, Saurauja hispida, Hypericum, +Spiraea bella, Gillenioinis, Quercus, Rubus, and Viburnum caerulescens. A +tree yielding lac, which had lately been cut, and Meliaceae, Rhus +triphyllum. Hence some snow was visible on a lofty ridge above our +heads, at least 9,500 feet, the snow descending a considerable way down +ravines. Of birds, Bulbuls and Bucco, were here observed. + +At --- feet, Leguminosa arborea, Loranthus Scurrula, Kydia Wendlandia, +Celtis, Osbeckia nepalensis, a Vitex, Grislea, Pteris aquilina, +Indigofera! Acanthacea caerulea. + +At --- feet, Triumfetta mollis, Composita arborea, Pterospermum, +fructibus 10-valvibus, valvis lobatibus, Sem. alatis. Santalacea +australasica, here a large shrub. + +At the nullah, Fici sp., Saccharum Megala, Verbenacia? foliis apice craso +lobatis. On the opposite side, Pinus longifolia, to within 200 feet of +the nullah, Phlebochiton extensus! Solanum farinaceum! Achyranthes densa! +a Plumbaginacea which is a Paederioid Rubiacea, and another Ficus, +Hastingsia, Bassia, Labiata Sudyensis, Grislea, very common, Emblica, +Ficus obliquus were found along the road, after crossing the nullah. The +ridge of the mountain was rocky, barren, covered chiefly with grasses, +the Butea of Nurtung, Artemisia minor, Umbelliferae, Desmodium vestilum, +Kalanchoe, also occurred. At the few houses below our path, we saw +plantains! and bamboos as well as mangoes! The terraces here are fronted +with stones: Lemna occurred in water; Linaria on rocks; Conaria and a +fleshy Euphorbia, this last, about villages. + +The occurrence of plantains and mangoes here is curious, and a sure sign +of mild climate, as Kalanchoe is of dryness; nothing could well exceed +the barrenness of the road, from crossing Dumria to Benka. + +Benka is a straggling place, built on a ridge overhanging the Monass, and +on exceedingly rugged ground, the north face of the ridge being nearly +equally steep; the southern face, contains about fifty houses, all of +which are small and a few in ruins. The only large house is the Rajah's, +which is said to be of Chinese construction. + +This day the Rajah paid us a visit; a tent was pitched for his reception +on the open ground before our house, consisting of a small silken pall, +with two high silken parti-coloured kunnauts. He arrived about eleven, +preceded and succeeded by followers amounting to less than a hundred. On +reaching the ground, he was carried or shuffled off his horse and +deposited in the tent amid most terrific screechings. He took an immense +time to arrange for our admission. We found him seated on a shabby +throne, with a head priest, a coarse looking man, on his right, on a less +elevated seat. Brass cups, etc. were arranged before him. Our chairs +occupied the left; a present of fruits, onions, etc., the floor. The +meeting was friendly, and he promised us coolies in two days. He is a +youngish man with a square face, and was well dressed. + +After we had taken leave, he feasted his attendants and the spectators +with salt-fish and rice. He departed about 2 P.M. The procession was as +follows, both going and returning-- + +A large, black, shaggy dog led by a chain. + +A drum and drummer; a gong with a melodious sound; a clarionet played by +an old and accomplished musician, rivalling in its strains that beautiful +instrument the bagpipe; a man bearing a wooden painted slab on a pole, on +this was an inscription; a banner looking like a composition of rags; a +white flaglet; fifteen matchlockmen; fifteen bowmen; the Dompa of +Roongdong; five horses and one mule led. + +The household; Natchees; guitar; sundries. Personal attendants, looking +like yeomen of the guard in red cloth dresses, variegated with yellow; +the Rajah wearing a Chinese copper hat. + +Lastly, the priests, of whom there were about six. + +These were the best clothed and best mounted, and evinced satisfactory +tokens of being corporeally well off. Their dress consisted of a sombre +jacket with no sleeves, with either a yellow or red silk back, over this +is a sombre scarf. They are great beggars, and the headman was well +pleased with a present of four rupees. In return, he gave P. two, B. and +myself each one paper of salt, similar to those given to the lookers-on. + +The ponies were all poor, excepting two or three of the Rajah's own, +which were handsomely equipped; these had their tails raised on end, +exactly like hobby-horses. In addition to this, each was supplied with +supernumerary yak tails, one on either side. + +The whole people collected did not amount to more than 300. The arms, at +least were wretched, consisted of culverins, which went off with an +enormous report, and matchlocks with short rests, like the end of a +pitchfork. The bows were long and good. The helmets were worn on the +head when going and coming, but were allowed to sling on the back while +resting here; they are rude iron things, like bowls, but covered for some +way up the sides with cloth in a most unbecoming way. Dirt and noise +were predominant; the dancing women, evidently not what they should be, +had clean faces, but horridly dirty feet, and were very plain. The +dancing was poor, consisting chiefly of ungraceful motions of the hands +and forearms; the singing pleasing, harmonious but monotonous. + +A peculiar kind of spirit called _Chonghoons_ is in great requisition: +this liquor is pleasant, perfectly clear like whiskey and water, with a +small matter of malt in it. + +Fumaria is found here much more advanced than that at Bulphai, Drymaria +ovata. They cultivate one sort of Legume, perhaps more; mangoes, jacks +and pomegranates; all these trees bear fruit towards the end of the hot +weather. A young mango tree was observed with opposite leaves, uppermost +pair one abortive nearly: thus the Mariam of Burma, may probably present +the normal form of foliation. _Adoee_ fish {227} found in the Monass. + +Bheirs, papia, tobacco, banyan, of these last, poor specimens may be seen +here. The place is miserably poor, and as it is reckoned one of some +importance, its condition shows the barrenness of the country. The +Rajah's house is a large one, apparently consisting of a quadrangle with +an elevated story. News arrived yesterday to the effect that tumults +still prevailed: the Deb it was said had been deposed by treachery: that +a new one had been permanently appointed: but that the usurper did not +wish us to come on. Tongsa, however, said that after we have come so +far, we should advance, and that we may settle our plans at his place. + +_February 5th_.--Left: descended immediately from the town to the +bridge over the Monass. The descent is steep but winding, the face of +the hill being nearly precipitous. Close to the river we passed a small +field of Cajanus, used for feeding the lac insect. The bridge is a +suspension one, the chains, one on either side, being of iron in square +links; the curve is considerable, in the form of the letter V, the sides +being of mat. Hence it is difficult to cross, and this is increased by +the bridge swinging about considerably: it is seventy yards in span, and +about thirty above the Monass. + +The Monass is 1,300 feet below Benka, it is a large river, the banks +being about eighty yards apart, but this space is not generally filled +with water. Its violence is extreme. + +We continued along this river some time, gradually rising from its bed +until we ascended nearly 1,000 feet. We continued at this elevation +until we reached Nulka, to which place we descended a little. The whole +march was through a barren, rocky, burnt-up country. The Monass was in +sight nearly the whole distance. Passed two villages, both small, one on +the right and one on the left bank of the river. No change in vegetation +occurred except that we came upon pines, P. longifolia about a mile and a +half from Nulka, coming into flower. I am almost inclined to think this +is different from the Khasya species, Kurrimia, Indigofera pulchra, +Desmodium, Buddleia sp., were the only plants of a novel nature that +occurred. The hills are chiefly clothed with Andropogoneous grasses, +very little cultivation was observed, but there seemed to be more on high +hills to the east. + +[Gradient Benka to Nulka: g229.jpg] + + + +CHAPTER XII. + + +_Continuation of the journey in Bootan_. + +The following table affords the result of observations made with the view +to determine the relation between temperature and altitude, in these +parts. + + Difference of Difference of Value in height of + Temperature Elevation 1 degrees of Temperature + +Benka and Monass, 13 degrees Fahr. 1,222 feet 94 feet + +Benka and Nulka, 4 = 406 = 01-5/10 + +Benka and Khumna, 13 = 1,110 = 85-5 + +Khumna and Nulka, 16 = 1,516 = 89-3 + +Monass and Nulka, 9 = 816 = 90-6 + +Monass and Khumna, 26 = 2,332 = 89-9 + ---------- + 6)550-8 + ---------- +Mean value of 1 degrees of Fahr. as indicated on the barometer 91-8 + +Second series of observation + +Benka and Monass, 13 degrees Fahr.1,193-4 feet 91-8 feet + +Benka and Nulka, 4 = 367-2 = 91-8 + +Benka and Khumna, 13 = 1,178-1 = 90-6 + +Khumna and Nulka, 17 = 1,557-0 = 91-10 + +Monass and Nulka, 9 = 826-2 = 91-8 + +Monass and Khumna, 26 = 2,386-8 = 91-8 + ---------- + 6)549-8 + ---------- + 91-6 + +The Monass is called Goongree by the Booteas; its bed is very much +inclined, and tranquil pools are of rare occurrence: it is not fordable +in any place, although many of the rapids are not very deep. The +singular bridge is said to be of Chinese construction, and that it serves +the purpose of a chief thoroughfare, is a proof of the extremely small +population of the country. + +Onions grow at Nulka, plantains, sugarcane, tobacco. + +Bheirs are common. Weeping cypress occurs, but stunted. + +The entrance to this village on the north-side, is through a square +building, the ceiling of which is painted, and the walls decorated with +figures of deities, white and red. + +[Koollong Bridge: p230.jpg] + +_February 6th_.--We descended immediately to the Monass, keeping along +its banks throughout the greater part of the march; rising however, over +one or two spurs that dip into it. + +This river varies a good deal in width, its bed, however, is generally +confined, and the stream fierce; occasionally, however it spreads out and +becomes here and there more placid. We continued along its banks, +crossing one or two small streams until 12 o'clock, when we reached a +large torrent, the Koollong, up which we proceeded three or four hundred +yards, but at some height above its bed. We crossed this by a wooden +bridge of similar construction with that over the Deo Panee, and the idea +of which is ingenious. It is nearly fifty yards wide, and about twenty +above the torrent. It is in a bad state, and unprovided with railings +throughout the central level part. The houses into which the inclined +supporting beams are fixed are strong, and built on rock. The fastenings +are altogether of cane, and the whole presenting the appearance given in +the annexed drawing. + +Hence we ascended a black, rocky, burnt-up mountain until we reached +Khumna, the ascent amounted to nearly 2,000 feet, and occupied more than +an hour. + +But little of interest occurred, in fact I never saw a more barren +country. We passed a small village of two or three houses, and two good +patches of rice cultivation, one just below Nulka, one at Ghoomkhume, the +small village just alluded to. + +Pinus longifolia descends nearly to the bed of the Monass, which below +Nulka is about 2,200 feet above the level of the sea. Along this I +noticed Hiraea, Eugenia, Vitis, Jasminum, Paederia foetida, Ficus, +Loranthus, Scurrula, Desmodium, Aerides, Vanda, Flacourtia, Kalanchoe, +Leguminosa, _Vanillidora of Solani mookh_, Ceanothus, Bergera, +Dischidia bengalensis, Leguminous trees, Euphorbia, Bassia, Cheilanthes +of Brahmakoond common, Coccoloba cyanea. In rice khets at Ghoomkurrah, I +found Lemna, Cardamine, Rumex of Khejumpa, Cirsium decurrens, Gnaphalia, +Datura, Simool in flowers; Spathoidea, Oxalis coriculata, Cannabis, +Verbesina. + +I observed water-ouzels, bucco, water-wagtails, bulbuls, ordinary and +yellow-rumped. + +[Gradient Nulka to Khumna: g232.jpg] + +Passed cotton cultivation in two places, one close to the Monass, and one +to the Koollong, both equally bad, and observed Begonia edule, which they +call Sheemptsee, and which they eat. + +The road to-day was generally good, overhanging in one place the Monass +at a height of forty yards above, and below scarped precipices. The road +here was constructed or supported artificially. Distance six miles. + +_February 7th_.--To Phoollong. Left at 9.5 A.M., and immediately +commenced ascending. The ascent was at first steep, then gradually wound +round the Khumna mountain, which was most barren throughout. The ascent +continued but very gradually until we came near Phoollong, to which we +descended, and then ascended about 1,000 feet. About half-way, and when +we had ascended perhaps 1,000 feet, we came on new vegetation, oaks, +Rhododendra, etc. as before, and this continued improving in denseness +until we reached the village. The distance is five miles, ascent about +1,500 feet, but so gradual, that one would not imagine it more than 800 +feet. At Khumna, I noticed Pinus longifolia, Pyrus malus, Achyranthes +dense, Cirrus, Urtica urens, tobacco, Musa, Datura, Artemisia major. Hogs +are fed here in large circular platters made of stone scooped out. + +Commencing the ascent, I observed Ficus cordata of Bhamru, Rhus pendula, +Indigofera _elatior_, Conaria, Pteris aquilina, Cerasus commenced at +5,000 feet. Then Desmodium vestilum, Artemisia minor, Conyza laculia, +Rubus deltifolius, Labiata Sudyensis, Acanth. caerulescens. + +Quercus robur commenced at about 5,200 feet, but stunted Flemingia +secunda, then Gaultheria arborea, Gnaphalium nivea. + +Here there was a high ridge to the right, crowned with a wood of Q. +robur, all the leaves of which had fallen. Myrica, Rhododendron, +Jubrung, Didymocarpus contortus on rocks, Cnicus, Clematis cana, +Polygonum rheoides. At a village here, which contained ten houses, +observed Cupressus pendula, Citrus, wheat, Bambusa, then Juncus. Primula +of the Khasya hills. Q. robur abundant, Composita penduliflora, Saurauja +hispida, Equisetum, Rubus caesius, Alnus of Thumathaya, Elaeagnus +spinosus, E. macrophyllus 5,300 feet: Plantago, Coriaria, Erythrina, Rhus +acidum, Cerastium coenum, Dipsacus, Viburnum microphyllum, Rubia +cordifolia, Barleria, Tetranthera oleosa, Hedera, Gentiana, Myrsine, +Blasia, Fleshy urticea, Q. robur, Gordonia, Adamia, Neckera +jungermannoides and laeta, Primula in abundance, Acorus, Calamus, Scirpus +kysoor of Churra, Gram. latifolia, Andropogonoides of Suniassa. + +Coming on a well-wooded ravine close to Phoollong, the first I have seen +since leaving Balphai, found Quercus 2, Castanea, Gordonia, Spiraea +decomposita, and S. Bella, Hydrangea, Rhododendron, Thalictrum, Quercus, +Curculigo, Viburnum caerulescens, Indigofera elatior, Gnaphalium niveum, +Sempervivum on rocks, Panicum eleusinoides, Thibaudia myrtifolia, Swertia +major, Alnus as before, Rubus moluccanus, Salix lanata, Primula Simsii, +Phlomoides, Orthodon. + +Throughout the march we observed many detached houses on the mountains +forming the right bank of the Koollong, and much cultivation, all of the +terrace sort. Passed one village beneath us about 700 feet, containing +twelve houses, and the one mentioned above; as usual, ruined houses +occur. + +Cattle furnished with litters of leaves; a curious low was heard, like +that of an elephant. + +Booteas work their own cotton, much of which is cultivated along the +rivers at low elevations. + +Higher land, certainly 11 to 12,000 feet high, was visible to the north +side: on this a good deal of snow was visible. + +[Gradient Khumna to Phoollong: g235.jpg} + +_February 8th_.--Towards the morning it commenced to rain; snow has +fallen on both sides the Koollong: it has fallen on the road we came by +yesterday, and on the hills above to within 200 feet of us, or in some +places to the level of this. Exemption in favour of this place is to be +attributed to local causes. The trees in the neighbourhood are +completely covered with it, and it is said to have fallen here twice +during the night, + +The Bootea houses are ill calculated for rain, they leak all around as +indeed might be expected, from the nature of the roofs, which consist of +boards, kept _in situ_ by stones. It would be curious to ascertain the +temperature under which snow does not fall, and if possible the +temperature here and among the snow. In the morning, sleet with a few +flakes of snow fell also, but only occasionally. + +Snow continued to fall throughout the day, and steadily too: it commenced +slightly: as the cold increased it ceased to melt on reaching the ground, +and at length all around was a sheet of white. The variations of the +thermometer were considerable and frequent, the wind blowing pretty +steadily from the south-east. + +At 10 A.M. 37 degrees Snow commencing. +At 10.5 A.M. 36 degrees South-east wind. +At 10.75 A.M.40 degrees Wind from the north, snow rather heavy. +At 11.75 A.M.37 degrees South-east. +At 12 Noon 35 degrees ditto. +At 12.5 P.M. 36 degrees ditto. +At 2.5 P.M. 37 degrees ditto. +At 4 P.M. 39 degrees ditto. +At 6 P.M. 37 degrees ditto. +At 9 P.M. 38 degrees ditto. + +Fine moonlight night. View to the north beautiful; every thing silvered +with snow; the deep and black ravine of the Koollong is particularly +conspicuous, and on some cultivated spots the pendulous cypress with its +sombre head and branches covered with snow, was also remarkable, +altogether a beautiful scene. Larch-like firs were visible 500 feet over +the road leading to this from Khumna. + +_February 9th_.--Fine sunny morning: thermometer at 7 A.M. 35 degrees: +at 8 A.M. 42 degrees. Hills around covered with snow. High ridge to +south plainly visible, a good deal of snow visible. Went out at noon +over to the south-east, in which direction a pine wood was visible; this +I ascertained to consist of Pinus or Abies pendula, which has much the +habit of a Larch. The altitude of this above Phoollong is certainly +1,000 feet; snow covered the ground in all sheltered spots. The woods +here are formed chiefly of Q. robur, Q. ilecifolia also occurs here and +there, Gordonia, Cerasus, Rhododendron minus. + +Mosses and Jungermanniae abound, and were in high perfection owing to +being saturated with moisture. Polytrichum, Neckera, Brachymenium, +Dicranum, Weissiae, Fissidens, Hypnum, Didymodon, Diastoma, Orthodon, +were found in perfection. The only new plants were a Campanula and a +Chimaphila, which last was found at 7,000 feet. Berberis asiatica +scarcely occurs below 6,000 feet, Hedera. The birds seen were the jay, +barbet, red-and-black-headed, variegated short-wing, large ditto of +Khegumpa, orange-breasted Trochilus, brown Fringilla, green woodpecker, +black pheasant, and small squirrel of Assam was also found. + +From the fir wood, Tassyassee was distinctly visible, bearing nearly due +south, distance 10 or 12 miles. Koollong was also seen: all the high +ground between that and Bulphai was covered with snow. The high range to +the south is, I think, the same as that which runs up behind from the +pagoda above Bulphai. + +A few plants of the Assam Indigo, Ruellia indigofera, are kept here, and +preserved with care, but stunted and obviously unsuited to the climate. +Montario, our taxidermist, says that it is the fourth plant he knows from +which indigo is procured. First, Indigofera--Second, the custard apple, +_shereefa_--Third, a climbing plant used in Java, etc. probably Marsdenia +tinctoria--Fourth,--? + +_February 10th_.--Fine weather: thermometer at 7 A.M. 40 degrees. +Started at 9 A.M., and reached Tassyassee at 3 P.M.; the distance being +nine miles. We continued throughout nearly at the same elevation, +rounding the hill on which Koollong is placed. About three miles from +this we descended about 500 feet to a nullah, which we crossed over by +means of planks, thence we ascended about the same height, and continued +at nearly our former level until we descended to the Koollong, which we +crossed by the usual form of wooden bridge. Thence we ascended 400 feet +to the village, which is chiefly constituted by the Rajah's house, a very +large edifice. The Koollong is still a considerable stream, but appears +to be fordable, at least in the present season. + +The vegetation continued the same almost throughout. In ascending from +the nullah above mentioned, we came on plenty of Pinus longifolia, and on +getting still nearer Tassyassee the Abies pendula became more and more +common, until it forms on the opposite bank of the Koollong opposite +this, a large wood; Pinus longifolia disappearing. The hills continue +openly wooded, the woods consisting of oaks, chiefly Q. robur and +Rhododendrons. In the ravines which are thickly wooded, oaks, chesnuts, +Cerasus, Rhododendron arborea, mosses; Panax two or three species, among +which is a new one, _P_. _aesculifolia_, arbor parva armati, foliis 7 +digitatis, paniculis nutantibus. Hydrangea, Viburnum caerulescens, and +Microphyllum, Galium, Ferns abundant, Bucklandia likewise occurred here +and there! Tetranthera, Valeriana, Scabiosa, Conaria, Holcus elegans. + +In the broken ground before reaching this, Gaultheria nummularifolia, +Primula minor, in crevices of rocks. In some places Erythrina was very +common, Gentiana, Dipsacus, Sedum and Didymocarpus contortus on rocks, +Saccharum aristatum, Salix lanata, Woodwardia, Primula minor, which grows +in shade on the Khasya hills, is found here in sunny wet places. The +scenery in some places is very romantic, and occasionally grand; the +valley of the Koollong being closed far to the north by a high ridge and +beautiful peaks, all heavily snowed. The Rajah's house is visible from a +considerable distance. As we approached, some parts were rugged and +bold. Water abundant throughout. + +[Gradient Phoollong to Tassangsee: g239.jpg] + +_February 11th_.--Went out at 1 P.M.; descending to, and crossed the +Koollong, then ascending along its banks for about a mile. + +The bridge over this is about thirty yards wide, abutting from two houses +of ordinary structure, built on solid rocks: the river is underneath the +bridge apparently of great depth; above it is a succession of rapids, it +is even at this, the driest season, a considerable river. The path leads +in a winding direction either over rice cultivation or on precipitous +banks. I noticed Berberis asiatica, pinnata, a Pomacea spinosa, foliis +spathulatis, Stauntonia latifolia, Hedera, Gaultheria two or three, +Thebaudiaceae, Artemisia major, Erythrina, Primula Stuartii in abundance, +Juncus, Alnus, Myrsina, Prunella in grassy spots, Rumex of Khegumpa, +Daphne papyracae, Peperomia quadrifolium, Spiraea bella, Viola, +Ophiopogon linearifol., Hypericum, Smilax, Elaeagnus, Conaria, Lonicera +villosa, Epilobium sericeum, a common plant in all watery places, +Cardamina Swertia, Viburnum microphyllum. Rhododendrum arborea and +minor, Leucas ciliata, Thistles, Pteris aquilina, Neckerae, Osbeckia +capitata of Churra, Oaks, Catharinea, Xyris, Gordonia, Fragaria, +Potentilla two, Festucoidea, Cupressus pendula. + +The greatest acquisitions were a beautiful pink farinaceous ascapous +Primula, and a new genus of Hamamelideae. This plant I have long known, +and called _Betula corylifolia_, as I had only seen it in fruit, and +not examined it; it is found on the Khasya hills at elevations of between +4,000 and 6,000 feet. It will be worth dedicating it to some +distinguished geologist, thereby associating his name with that of +Bucklandia and Sedgwickii. + +No fly-fishing is to be had in this stream, nor indeed in any at such +elevations. The Adoee is found, but always keeps at the bottom, the +structure of its mouth pointing out its grovelling habits. The Bookhar +does not, I think, ascend more than 2,500 feet. Water-ouzels, +white-fronted Sylvia occur. Observed for the first time the religious +vertical revolving cylinders, these revolve by the action of water, which +runs on the cogs of the wheel by means of hollowed out trunks of trees. +Flour mills are common here, the grindstone revolves on another by means +of vertical spokes, which are set in motion by a horizontal wheel, and +moved by a stream let on it in the same way. + +Funaria heygrometrina abounds in the larch wood here. + +This is a very cold place, although 550 feet below Phoollong: it is much +colder than that place: thermometer at 7 A.M. 34 degrees. + +Snow still remains on the height around; heavy snow on the lofty ridge to +the north; strong south-east winds prevail here. + +[Tassgong from the Koollong: p241.jpg] + +_February 12th_.--Tassyassy, which is also called Tassangsee, is a +small place apparently consisting of one large house, belonging to the +Soobah, and some religious edifices, the other houses belonging to it are +scattered about among the adjoining cultivation. The Soobah we have just +learnt is absent at Tongsa, so we have no opportunity of comparing his +rank with that of the Tassgong man. His house is however, much larger; +it is situated on a promontory formed by the debouching of a considerable +sized torrent into the Koollong. The bridge is at the foot of this hill, +which is about 400 feet high: the house is accessible to the north and +west only. Half-way up a high hill to the north-west is a fort! and +between the foot of this hill and the Rajah's house there is a wall with +a tower at the north-west end, and a house at the south-east. In the +afternoon the weather threatened snow, but it ended in very slight rain. + +_February 13th_.--Thermometer at 7 A.M. 33 degrees: at 9 P.M. 31 +degrees: cloudy. Observed Conyza nivea, Composita penduliflora, +Agrimonia, Stemodia grandiflora, a species of Alopecurus in inundated +rice fields, Fragaria, in the wood, Arenaria, Gymnostomum on the +terraces. An Arabis in cornfields with a Viola, probably V. patrinia, +Gaultheria deflexa and Gerardia of Churra. The fir woods are +comparatively bare of mosses and lichens. Shot an Alauda, a Fringilla, +and a curious climber with the tail of a woodpecker, at least so far as +regards the pointing of the feathers, plumage of Yunx, and beak of +Certhia. + +Fine cypresses were seen opposite Tassangsee. + +_February 14th_.--Left Tassangsee, diverging from the Koollong at that +place, and following the nullah, which falls into that river below the +Soobah's house. The march was a generally, continued, gradual ascent; we +crossed two considerable streams by means of rude wooden bridges, and the +whole march was a wet splashy one, owing to the abundance of water. Snow +became plentiful towards the latter end. The direction was west, the +distance about seven miles. We passed two or three deserted villages. + +We commenced ascending through woods of stunted oaks, Rhododendrons, +Gaultheria arborea. The chief under-shrubs being Daphne papyracae, +Gaultheria fruticosa, Primula Stuartii, Lycopodium of Surureem, Thibaudia +myrtifolia continue, the Alnus of Beesa occurred plentifully along the +bed of the nullah. Spiraea decomposita, Valeriana simplicifolia, Conaria, +Scabiosa, Fragaria, Potentilla, Geranium, Artemisia major, Spiraea bella, +Hedera, Viburnum caerulescens, Q. robur, Crawfurdia speciosa also +occurred. + +Ascending, the oaks and Rhododendrons became more developed the latter +being the smaller species, Bambusa microphylla, Gordonia, Sphoeropteris, +Antrophyum trichomanes, Oxalis major! commenced. Larches on the opposite +side, Saccharum aristatum, Gillenioides, Gleichenia major, Hemiphragma, +Abies Brunonis commence. + +At 6,500 feet Smilax ruscoides, Senecio scandens, Lilium giganteum. The +Rhododendrons here are large, forming with oaks, open woods, mosses and +lichens, very abundant. Here we came on snow, with it commenced Eurya +acuminata, Rhododendron formosa, majus, Rhododendron fruticosa on ruins, +Pyrus malus, Dipsacus. + +At 6,800 feet, Q. ilecifolia, Q. glauca, Dalibarda, Bambusa very common, +Sphagnum abundant, Rhododendron formosa, majus, Quercus ilecifolia larger +and more common at 7,000 feet, Gaultheria nummulariodes very abundant, +Daltonia, Lomaria of Khegumpa, Gaultheria flexuosa, Thibaudia acida, +Tetranthera nuda, Lycopodium of Surureem, Primula Stuartii, Hyperici sp., +also _H_. _moflongensis_, are found up to 7,400 feet, with Hemiphragma, +Elaeagnus spinosus, microphyllum, Juncus, Alnus of Beesa, Saccharum +aristatum. + +The village is a ruined one apparently, and never contained more than +four or five houses, situated on an open spot, surrounded by woods. This +spot is covered with sward, a fine Q. ilecifolia occurs about the centre +of the village. Its altitude is 7,983 feet. + +The vegetation is the same, Abies pendula, Oaks, Rhododendron formosa, +majus, the other has disappeared, Bambusa microphylla, Thibaudia acida, +Primula Stuartii, Juncus. + +[Gradient Tassangsee to Sanah: g243.jpg] + +_February 15th_.--We started very early; the coolies were all off by +6.5 A.M. Our march was first over undulating ground, either sward or +through green lanes. We then commenced ascending a steep hill visible +from Sanah, the face of which was covered with sward; at the top of this, +snow lay rather thick, especially in the woods. The ascent continued, +soon becoming very steep, snow laying heavily on the path, until we +reached the summit of the second ridge; thence we descended a little, +soon ascending again very steeply until we surmounted the highest ridge. +The descent from this was at first most steep, the path running in zig- +zags, and being in many places very difficult. About 1,000 feet below, +we came on sward, with wood on the right, along which we descended, +diverging subsequently through a thick wood, until we reached sward +again. Here the coolies who had come up had halted, refusing to go on, +as it was already dusk. Learning that Pemberton and B. had gone on, I +hurried on likewise, expecting that the coolies would follow, and +continued along the swardy ridge, the path running occasionally between +patches of wood, the descent being gradual; the path then struck off into +wood, and the descent became rapid. I continued onward, until it was +quite dark, and finding it impossible to proceed, and meeting with no +signs of B. and P., I determined on returning. I reached the coolies +about eight, covered with mud, the path in the wood being very difficult +and excessively slippery. I had nothing but broken crusts to eat; I +procured some sherry however, and my bedding being up, I was glad to take +shelter for the night under the trees. Next morning on overtaking P. and +B., I found that they had remained all night in the wood without any +thing to eat, and without bedding, and that no habitation was near. We +reached the village about 9.5 on the 16th, fatigued and dispirited. +Nothing was at hand, and we had no meal until 5 P.M. except some tea, and +an egg or two. + +Many of the coolies came up late on the 16th, and some have not yet +arrived (17th.) The distance was fifteen miles, to the halting place +about twelve. The amount of ascent about 4,500 feet, and descent 6,100 +feet, the road being difficult and very slippery: snow was heavy +throughout, and the elevations between 9 and 12,400 feet; icicles were +frequent. The trees were all covered with frost, and the aspect was +wintry in the extreme; luckily there was no wind, and no snow fell. The +summit of the ridge was 12,477 feet high. No views were obtained +throughout the 15th and 16th; the weather being cloudy and very +disagreeable. No bad effects were experienced from the rarefaction of +the air; we all suffered of course from colds owing to exposure at night, +at an elevation of nearly 9,500 feet; the servants bore it tolerably +well. + +At Sanah, the altitude of which is 7,983 feet, (Pemb.) I observed Quercus +ilecifolia, on it Neckerae, Anhymenium, Senecio scandens, Rhododendron +arboreum, majus, Juncus effusus, Swertia, Pendulous lichens, Dipsacus, +Artemisia major, Primula Stuartii, Berberis asiatica, Bambusa +microphylla, Lycopodium of Surureem, Orthotrichum! + +At 8,000 feet, Smilax ruscoideus, Senecio scandens, woods of oak and +Rhododendrons, the ground and the trees covered with mosses. Gnaphalium, +Daphne papyrif., Mespilus microphyllus! Gaultheria nummularioides, Spiraea +gillenioides, and S. bella, Hypericum, Gnaphalium lanceolatum, trivenum, +Sambucus! but withered, Tetranthera nuda of Bulphai, Abies Brunonis which +is probably a Podocarpus. + +At 8,300 feet, Tussilaginoides of Churra, Primula Stuartii common on +swards with Swertiae, etc. as before, Funaria and Weissia Templetonia +common, Sphaeropterus! Quercus ilecifolia, Abies pendula, Rhododendron +arboreum, majus! Dalibarda, Rubus, Ilex dipyrena! Rhododendron undulatum! + +At 8,400 feet, the road running along, and above a ravine, rocky ground +to the right, Eurya acuminata! Composita penduliflora. Thibaudia +rotundifolia, and in a swampy sward a small dwarfed very narrow-leaved +bamboo, Primula Stuartii, Gnaphalium densiflorum, Swertia +monocotyledonea, Prunella in the woods, Salix lanata, and Panax +rhododendrifolia. + +Just above this, 8,500 feet, the first Abies cedroides appeared, soon +becoming very common, and extending up to 9,500 feet, its habit is like +that of a cedar, and it is a tall handsome tree, Rubia* cordifolia! +Geranium scandens, Baptisioides. + +Crossing a nullah, we commenced a steep ascent, Thibaudacae rotundifolia, +Abies cedroides, Lomaria of Khegumpa, Crawfurdia speciosa, Andropogon, +Gaultheria nummulacifol. Ilex, Epibolium Vaccinium cyaneum! Here a +sward commenced with vegetation as before, the summit of this ascent was +9,050 feet. Here Ilex, Daphne papyracae, Rhododendron, Scleria, Lomaria +of Khegumpa! Primula pulcherrima! Spiraea bella, Gnaphalium trivenium, +Rubus moluccanus, Thibaudia, Ericinea orbiculens, Spiraea decomposita, +Gaultheria, nummulariod., Scutellaria prunella, Gaultheria flexuosa, +Scandent composita, Cerastium bacciferum. The trees covered with mosses, +Neckerae, Dicranum, Daltoniae, Abies pendula ceased, its limits visible +below. Hence the ascent was gradual at first: snow became heavy at 9,100 +feet. Hemiphragma, Rhododendron abundant. + +At 9,500 feet, much the same vegetation, Abies densa commenced, cedroides +ceased. Woods entirely of A. densa, with a small baccate-like deciduous +leaved tree. Hydrangea! Spiraeacea! Urticeae?! Pedicularis elatior. + +At 10,000 feet, some trees all covered with frost; snow very heavy, quite +crisp, Juncus niveus, Cerastium inflatum! bamboos, other plants of 9,500 +feet, continue. Old Cretins! + +At 11,270 feet, thermometer 39 degrees, the same trees, scarcely any +thing but Abies, Arenoid, Dicranum macrocarpus, Orthotrichum, Lichen +pendulum atratum. + +Thence we descended a little, soon to re-ascend. + +At the same elevation Parnassia, Epilobium monus, Gnaphalium densiflor., +Vaccinium pumilum, Gentiana, Polygonum(?) + +At 11,000 feet, icicles were common, and snow, very heavy. Woods of some +Abies, a species of rose very abundant, a shrub of four feet high; other +plants continue as before. + +From this to the summit the ascent was very steep; Abies continues. +Rhododendron(?) very common, with rose, Parnassia, Saxifraga, Composita +arenoid, Gentiana, Polygonum(?), Pedicularis dwarfed, Triticoides, +Aroides. Many pines dead as if blasted. Summit nearly bare of trees, +which appear confined to slopes, Rhododendron very common, Umbellifera +crassa, figured in Royle, Lilium unifloria. + +At 12,000 feet, after descent, commenced Hymenophyllum, Xyris on rocks, +Pyrus at 11,500 feet, Rhododendron ellipticum common, summit strewed with +rocks, Rhododendron pumilum. + +At 10,000 feet, the Spilus microphyllus, Polygonum, as well as on ascent +Gaultheria nummularioid., swards abounding with Gramen nardoides(?), +Dipsacus minor, Epilobium parnassia, Swertia, Umbelliferae, Primula +scapigerc. floribus in globum densum, pedalis, Habenariae herminioid. + +At the halting place 9,700 feet, Berberis ilecifolia, Daphne papyracae, +Thibaudia myrtifolia, Baptisia, Dipsacus, major, Swertim pedicularis, +Andropogones, Ilex dipyrena, Rumex of Khegumpa, Betula, Euonymus cornets, +Abies cedroides, and Brunonis, Geranium scandens, Pyrus, Hypericum +moflongensis, Hemiphragma, Mespilus microphyllus, Panax rhododendrifol., +Rhododendron obovatum. + +At 9,500 feet, Rhododendron arborea, majus, Abies cupressoides, +Gaultheria nummularioides flexuosa, Thibaudiacea rotundifolia, Primula +Stuartii, stunted juncus. + +At 9,000 feet, Q. ilecifolia, Rhododendron undulatum, Primula +pulcherrima, Tetranthera nuda, Chimaphiliae! Andropogons, Rhododendron +arbor, majus, common, which varies much in size of leaves, Dalibarda, +Smilax ruscoideus. + +At 8,500 feet, Berberis pinnata, asiatica, Buddlaea purpurea; Eurya +acuminata. + +At 8,000 feet, Gnaphalium trivenium, Baptisia, Spiraea, (Gillenioid) +bella, Artemisia major. 7,500 feet, Rhododend. minus arborea, Leucas +ciliata, and woods of Q. robur, as usual deciduous. + +[Gradient Sanah to Linge: g248.jpg] + +All the plants above 10,500 feet, had perished, not a single one being +found in flower. The descent was so hurried, that it was impossible to +note down more plants; and the same applies to the descent to this from +the halting place. Starvation being to be added to discomfort. + +Of Rhododendrons, the species observed, may be characterized as follows:-- + + _Floribus in racemis umbelliformibus_. + +1. R. _arboreum_, arboreum, foliis oblongo obovatis, subtus argenteis. + +2. R. _ferrugineum_, arboreum, foliis obovatis, supra rugosis, subtus +ferrugineis.--No. 654. + +3. R. ----- fruticosum, foliis oblongis, subtus ferruginea +lepidotis.--No. 652. + +4. R. _ellipticum_, fruticosum, foliis ellipticis.--No. 653. + +5. R. ----- fruticosum, foliis ellipticis basi cordatis subtus glaucus +reticulatis.--No. 659. + +6. R. ----- fruticosum, foliis lanceolato oblongis, sub-obovatis, subtus +punctatis.--No. 655. + +7. R. _undulatum_, fruticosum, foliis elongati lanceolatis, undulatis +subtus reticulatis.--No. 656. + + _Floribus solitariis_. + +8. R. _microphyllum_, fruticosum, lotum ferrugineo lepidotum, foliis +lanceolatis parvis. + +_February 17th_.--Snow has fallen during the night all around, but not +within 1,000 feet of us: this will make the snow line here about 7,300 +feet, the village being 6,335 _supra marem_. Mildness of climate would +appear to be indicated by the abundance of rice cultivation round this +place, chiefly, however, about 1,000 feet below. In every direction +ranges of 9 to 12,000 feet are visible: villages are very common, +especially so in a hollow on the western side of the ravine of the +Kooree, in which I counted sixteen or eighteen; one containing between +thirty and forty houses. The space alluded to is one sheet of +cultivation, chiefly rice and wheat. Linge itself is an ordinarily sized +village, containing about twelve houses. The wooded tracts cease for the +most part, about 1,000 feet above this. The face of the country, where +uncultivated, being clothed with harsh Andropogoneous grasses, Salix +pendula, Thuja pendula, Pyrus malus, Erythrina, Quercus, Juncus effusus, +Porana of Churra, Plantago, Barleria, Polygonium rheoides, Stellaria +media, Rubus deltifoliis, Cnicus, Rhodod. arboreum minus, but rare, +Smithea occurs also. + +_February 18th_.--Our march commenced by a steep descent on the south +face of the hill, the coolies proceeding by a more direct one to the +north, but which was said to be difficult. We continued descending in a +westerly direction, until we came in sight of the Kooree river which +flows along the ravine, and which is a large stream, one-third less than +the Monass. We then turned to the north following the river, the path +running up, about 800 feet above it. We then came to another ravine, and +descended to the torrent, which we crossed by a rude wooden bridge: then +followed again the Kooree, to the bed of which we descended, and along +which we continued for some time. We then ascended where the banks were +of such a nature as not to allow a path, descending again here and there. +Then we came on the Khoomun, a large torrent, which we crossed by a +wooden bridge about 100 yards above its bed; re-descended to the Kooree, +reached its bridge; and thence descending rather steeply, and for about +one and a half mile to Ling-Ling, or Lengloon, which is plainly visible +from the bridge over the Kooree. + +After turning to the north along the Kooree, and indeed after passing the +cultivation below Linge, which chiefly occupies a sort of plateau, we +passed through a most miserable country, the hills being rocky, nearly +destitute of trees, and chiefly clothed with the usual coarse +Andropogoneous grasses, especially lemon-grass, occurred between Linge +and Lengloon. + +At 5,000 feet, observed Desmodium, Santalacea australasia, Gaultheria +arborea, Indigofera, as before, Clematis cana, Acanthacea caerulescens, +Pteris aquilina, Viburnum caerulescens, Oxyspora, Panicum eleusinoides, +Anthistiria, Conyza, Ficus cordifoliis of Bhamree, Labiata Suddiensis, +Corearia, Rhus pendula, Airoides major, Flemingia secunda and major. + +At 4,800 feet, Desmodium vestilum, stunted, Q. robur, Dipsacus, +Epilobium, Elaeagnus microphyllus, spinosus. + +At 4,600 feet, Sedum, Campanula, Osbeckia capitata, Citrus in villages, +Emblica, Artemisia minor. + +At 4,000 feet, Paederia cyanea, lemon-grass, Panax, Terebinthaceus, Pinus +longifolia, here and there, Ficus obliqua, Grislea, Cirsium. + +At the bed of the torrent 4,000 feet, Bassia. + +Over the Kooree, Euphorbia antiqorum, a sure sign of aridity. +Didymocarpea contorta, D. canescens, which differs from the other in +being hirsute, Menispermum, Holcus elegans. + +Along its bed, Sedum of Phoollong, Eugenia, Achyranthis, Ingoides +arborea, Aspidium polypodioides, Briedleia obovata; Desmodium of Nulka! +Arundo, Buddlaea neemdoides, Jasminum of Benka, Composita, involucri +squamis ciliatis. Rice fields, in these Gnaphalium aureum, Phleoides of +Tassangsee, but in full flower, Lysimachia majus, rugosus, Oxalis +comiculata, Hieracioid, Composita, Lactucoid purpureseus, Ammannia, +Bidens alba, Drymaria. + +Then along the wooded banks, Wendlandia, _Pomacea_? Mimosa arborea, +Camunium, Butea suffruticosa, Pterospermum of Bhamree, Luculia, Ulmus, as +before, Pinus longifolia, Rottlera, Melica latifolia, young plants of Q. +robur on rocks, along with it Goodyera articulata, Urticoid rhombifolia, +carnosa; on rocks up Khoomun, Orthotrichum corcalypta. At the bridge +over this, a Myrtaceous tree and the Simool occur. The plants occur +during the ascent, as in the descent. Water-wagtails, blackbirds, +tomtits, were observed, as also white-pated and white-rumped water-chats. + +_February 19th_.--Ling-Ling or Lengloon. + +_February 20th_.--To-day we visited the Soobah, who is a young man, +certainly not more than twenty years old, with a good humoured +countenance. The meeting was cordial but unattended with any state, and +judging from appearances only, this Soobah is inferior to the others we +have seen, and especially to him of Tassgong. No armed men were present, +and the whole bystanders scarcely amounted to 100. It was agreed that we +remain here until the baggage, now in the rear, arrives. Tonsa is, we +hear, only four or five days journey from this. + +The meeting took place in an open plot of ground below the Soobah's house +and on the skirts of the village, the ground was matted and a space +enclosed with mats: we sat in the open air; the Soobah under a silken +canopy. Altogether he seemed a person of no pretensions, crowds, +speaking comparatively, of priests attended as usual, they were the +slickest looking of the whole, and the greatest beggars. A hideous party +of _nachnees_ were in attendance, and ready to perform any more pleasing +duties they might be required; they were however so ugly, that not much +self-denial was required in declining their offers. They were dressed in +red, with abundance of cumbrous silver ornaments, and dirty leggings; one +was additionally ornamented with incipient goitre. + +Sugarcane (but stunted), almonds, or peach, oranges, castor-oil, datura, +pear, simool, may be found here. Oranges are poor enough, the pear no +better. Pinus longifolia, Cupressus pendula, are almost the only trees: +the hills being barren, covered with coarse grasses. + +_February 23rd_.--Marched to Tumashoo: our march commenced with a steep +ascent, but which may be avoided by going through the village, it +commenced and continued throughout in the direction of Linge, opposite to +which place we found ourselves on our arrival, but on the right bank of +the river. The highest part reached, before we descended to this +village, was 6,350 feet, or about the height of Linge. The march was +nearly six miles, it was easy, the road being throughout excellent and +apparently more frequented than any we had hitherto seen. Generally we +moved along through open Rhododendron woods, frequently very much +stunted, at 6,000 feet. These were intermixed with Quercus tomentosa. +The only spot well wooded, occurred in the ravines, giving exit to small +streams. + +The first ascent from Leng-Leng, gave the same vegetation, scarcely any +trees being visible. Tradescantia clavijera of Churra on rocks, Galium +of Churra, Santalacea, Desmodium vestilum, Indigofera canescens, +Artemisia major and minor, Oxyspora, Luculia, Conaria, Sambucus in wet +places, Lobelia pyramidalis, Spiraea bella and decomposita, Thalictrum +majus, Gaultheria fruticosa, Woodwardia, Saurauja hispida, Rhododendron +minus, and lemon-grass, occurred in the order of ascent. + +Turning hence along the ridge at the same elevation, Gaultheria arborea, +Quercus tomentosa, Rhododendron minus, Hedychium, Holcus elegans, Leucas +ciliata. In wet wooded spots Gaultheria duplexa, Bucklandia, Viburnum +caerulescens, Polyg. rheoides, Erythrina, Gordonia, Porana, Neuropeltis +aromatica, Catharinea, Thibaudia myrtifolia, in open massy woods of +Rhododendron minus and Quercus tomentosa, Rosa, Cnicus, Pyrus, Gleichenia +major, Agrimonia occurred at the same elevations. + +From one spot seven villages were visible, on opposite bank of Kooree and +between Linge and the Khoomun. A few stunted P. longifolia: one or two +of Abies pendula, occurred 100 feet above the highest point of the +former: at 6,350 feet, woods of the deciduous Q. robur, were observable. + +On the descent at 6,000 feet, Mimosa spinosa, Primula Stuartii, Rhus, +Juncus, and others, as before. + +We passed several villages, some containing twenty or thirty houses, and +on halting found ourselves towards the edge of the cultivated tract +alluded to, as seen from Linge. + +Cattle are here kept in farm yards which are well littered with straw; as +in other places they are noosed round the horns: they are fed, while tied +up, on straw of a coarse and unnutritious description, which they do not +seem to fancy much. Pigeons abound, but they are of no use as they cannot +be caught; they may help to feed the sparrow-hawks, which are generally +found about the villages, and which are very bold. + +_February 24th_.--Left at 8 A.M. after the usual trouble about coolies +and ponies. We ascended at first about 1,000 feet, passing over sward +with woods of P. longifolia on either side, crossing the ridge through a +hollow, we then commenced a steep descent to the west, until we reached a +water-course, the elevation of which is about 200 feet below that of +Tumashoo. We then struck off, again to ascend, and continued to do so +until we attained 7,800 feet, from which point we descended gradually at +first, then abruptly to our _mokan_. The direction was nearly west, the +distance 11 miles, the march pretty easy, as the road was good, and the +ascent gradual. + +Up to the ravine and indeed throughout, nothing new occurred in the +vegetation. The hill up which we ascended to again descend, was bare, +covered with the usual coarse grasses, Campanula linearis and C. cana, +foliis undulatis, Desmodium vestilum, Santalacea. + +In the ravine Gordonia, Photinia, Pothos flammea and another species, +Maesa, Polygonum rheoides, Ficus of Bhamree, and in the khets Hieraceoid, +Gnaphalium aureum, Ajuga, and Veronica occurred. + +Up the first ascent and at about 5,500 feet, there was a field of peas, +in very luxuriant condition. Our road lay through open dry woods of +oaks, either Q. robur or Q. tomentosa, principally the latter, +Rhododendron minus, and Pinus longifolia preponderated in some places, +but few trees of Abies pendula occurred. + +The march was so far interesting as establishing nearly the limits of Q. +robur, Q. tomentosa and Q. ilecifolia, which last only commenced, and +then in a small state, at 7,300 feet, I should say that Q. tomentosa was +to it the next indication, as well as Q. glauca. But it must be +understood that only full grown trees are now considered. Mosses were +common in the woods on reaching 6 to 7,000 feet, principally Dicrana, +Hypna, Orthotricha, Pendulous lichens frequent; about 7,000 feet, Primula +Stuartii in its old situations between 6 to 7,000 feet, Hypericum of +Moflong, 7,000 feet. + +We crossed several small water-courses, along these, the dry woods +ceased, and the usual humid jungle made its appearance; mosses very +numerous. + +[Gradient Longloon to Tumashoo: g254.jpg] + +The above plants continued throughout, after reaching an altitude of +6,000 feet, the woods consisting of oaks and Rhododendrons. + +The route for the most part wound along the course of the Kooree, but +considerably above, we left this track about 3 P.M. on the river turning +to the southward. Linge was in sight nearly the whole day; we have been +six days (including a halt) performing what might with ease be done in +one, for there probably is a road in a direct line between this part and +the opposite bank of Kooree. The small-crested finch, and red-beaked and +red-legged fare occurred, the former is a noisy bird, inhabiting chiefly +woods of Q. robur, the flock were loth to leave one particular spot, so +that we obtained five specimens: the finch occurred at 7,800 feet. + +Various temples and walls were passed en route, and a few villages, with +one exception of average small size, were visible in various directions. + +_February 25th_.--Our route hence continued for some time at about the +same level, when we descended rather rapidly, until we reached a +considerable stream, the Oongar, which is crossed by the ordinary wooden +bridge; about 200 yards further, it is again crossed by means of a rude +bridge, and the remainder of the march is a steep, long, and unmitigated +ascent. I reached the tent about 5 P.M.; we passed one village situated +near the larger bridge, with this exception the country seemed +uninhabited: very little cultivation was visible in any direction. + +The vegetation was the same, for the most part, the drier faces of the +hills being covered, i.e. at about the level of Oongar, with oaks and +Rhododendrons, the wet ravines being more densely, and more variously +wooded. On sward about Oongar, I noticed a Pedicularis, Artemisia major, +Stellaria angustifolia, Berberis pinnata in woods at the same elevation, +Plantago, Crawfurdia speciosa, Rubus deltoideus, Alnus of Beesa, +Otochilus, Gordonia, Lilium giganteum, Bucklandia. + +In one spot near this place mosses were very abundant. On one rock I +gathered, Weissioides, Orthodon, Pohlia, Brachymenium bryoides, Weissia, +Bartramioides, Didymodon, Daphne papyrifera, and Eurya acuminata, this +being about the lowest elevation at which I have seen this plant. In +cultivated spots Crucifera, Ervum, and at a temple about a mile from +Oongar, Cupressus pendula, and a juniper, Arbor parva, of aspect scraggy, +trunco laevi, Cannabis, Cerastium canum in cultivated places. The most +common oak was Q. robur. The Jay, larger Brachypodium, which always goes +in large flocks, orange-breasted Trochilus and blackbird, were likewise +seen, as well as the brown finch, which was seen feeding on Rhododendron +minus. On rocky ground I procured a really fine Acanthus, leaves all +flesh-coloured, subscandens, spic. maximis lanato-ciliatis, tetrastich. +on this the black cattle appear to be fed, as large bundles were brought +in at Oongar. In the woody ravines Panax curcasifolia was common, in +these I noticed Cerastium scandens, Elaeagnus, Clematis, Tetrantheroidea +habitu, Sedgewickiae! Orthotrichum pumulum! Phlomoides, and in wet spots +are Epilobium. The descent shewed nothing remarkable: towards the nullah +I noticed Engelhaardtia, tree fern, and Gaultheria deflexa. Obtained a +beautiful woodpecker at 5,000 feet, with the chesnut-pated lesser tomtit, +Yunx, and speckled Brachypodium in woods here; this last has the habit +and manners of the crooked bill of Dgin. + +The wood between the two bridges was very pretty and open; the trees +covered with mosses. The ascent shewed nothing remarkable until 2,000 +feet had been surmounted, the plants forming the vegetation below this +were Q. robur, Rhododendron minus in abundance, Thibaudia myrtifolia, +Gaultheria arborea, Saurauja hispida uncommon, Viburnum caerulescens, +Conyza nivea, Oxyspora towards the base with paper plant, and Bambusa +microphylla. About 5,000 feet, a Daltonia, D. hypnoides, was found in +abundance both on rocks and trees. + +The change takes place about the situation of a spacious open sward; here +the jungle is thick, the trees consisting principally of Q. glauca, which +is a noble tree, with immense lamellated acorns, Pendulous lichens are +here common, Hymenopogon parasiticus, Lomaria of Khegumpa! Berberis +asiatica! Hemiphragma, Gaultheria nummulareoides, Panax Rhododendrifol. + +At 7,500 feet, Rhododendron majus appears, the wood preserving the +umbrageous humid aspect, Eurya acuminata, Hydrangea, and about this snow +commenced sparingly, but soon became thick. At 8,000 feet, Rhododendron +undulata, Tetrantheroides baccis nigris. At 9,000 feet, Rhododendron +ferrugineum. The evening now became so misty that it was impossible to +discern any thing; in addition, it was snowing: these circumstances added +to fatigue made me press on for the halting place, before coming to which +I passed through heavy snow. + +_Pemee_, where we put up, is a miserable hut, is upwards of 9,000 feet +above the sea, situated on an open sward, now densely covered with snow, +the accommodations being of course very miserable. Icicles of large size +were seen here; and we had nothing but snow for water. + +_February 26th_.--Leaving this, we commenced a long and at last very +steep ascent, the snow increasing in thickness as we increased our +elevation, the march commenced with undulations, but soon passed off into +an excessively steep ascent, in some parts indeed precipitous. We +crossed at twelve and a half P.M. the Pass of Rodoola, on which are some +slabs, with mystic characters, but even here the ascent did not +terminate, but continued, although very gradually for perhaps two miles +more. Before coming to the summit, a small hut is passed. The descent +was at first very rapid, then we proceeded along the side of the mountain +for a long way, at nearly the same level through woods of Abies densa. On +recommencing the descent, swardy patches commenced, surrounded by fir +woods, these increased in frequency. At length we reached extensive fir +woods, from whence a valley was visible, percolated by a large stream to +which we descended over open country with beautiful patches of firs, and +at length over extensive swards. I reached the village at 5 P.M., after +a march of nearly nine hours, the direction was west, the distance +eighteen miles. The road was very bad; in one place our ponies escaped +with difficulty, the road having apparently fallen in, and the only +footing being afforded by the thickness of the snow: one pony was saved +by placing branches under him. The highest portion of the Pass near the +peak was good enough. Snow was heavy on the road, until we descended into +the open fir-wooded country, it became scanty at 9,500 feet. The day was +gloomy and misty, for a moment, the sun appeared while I stood on the +summit, disclosing deep ravines, one formed by the valley in which we now +are, surrounded in every direction by equally high land, as that on which +I stood, and certainly not under 12,000 feet. Nothing visible but dense +forests of firs. The highest point crossed was 12,035 feet, estimating +the summit to be 300 feet above the Pass itself, which is so narrow as +scarcely to admit of the passage of a loaded mule. + +In the open spot around the hut, Tofieldioid, which continues as high as +10,500 feet, Cerastium inflatum, Labiata species, Conecis, which, as on +Dhonglaila, continues up to 12,000 feet, Dipsacus, Prunella, Gaultheria +nummularioides, Pteris aquilina, stunted, Juncus niveus, Gnaphalium. No +firs were visible, but the trees were so covered with snow, that I was +not able to distinguish them. + +At 9,800 feet, along an open ridge, Spiraea belloides, Buddlaea, B. +purpurasae, Khasyanae affinis, Andropogones, Mespilus microphyllus, +Hydrangea, Taxus, Swertia, Gnaphalium, Thibaudia orbicularis commences, +continuing up to 10,500 feet, Brachymenium bryoides, Bambusa very common, +forming frequently the chief bulk of the forest, even up to 10,500 feet, +Acer arbuscula foliis palmatum lobatis!! Pyrus arbor magna fol. obovat. +serratis subtus albus, fructibus cerasi magnitudinum. + +At 10,000 feet, Composita penduliflora! Hemiphragma, Lobelioides, +Brachymenium bryoides, Rhododendron minus ferrugineum, arboreum vel +arbuscula, Rhododendron obovatum, foliis subtus albus, Rhododendron +hispidum, Rosa microphylla, Bambusa, Spiraea of former ascent. + +At 10,200 feet, Polygonum, Rheum, Hydrangea! Spiraea belloides, +Hydrangea, Betuloides. + +At 10,500 feet, Abies densa, but sparingly, Rhododendron ellipticum, +foliis basi cordatis, Hypericum, Rhododendron microphyllum. + +At 11,000 feet, no firs: nothing almost but Rhododendrons, R. ellipticum, +and R. ellipticum foliis basi cordatis. + +At 11,500 feet, Vaccinium, foliis ovatis spinuloso-dentatis, atratus +fructex pygmaeus repens. + +Towards the Pass, the face of the mountain became more and more rugged, +the vegetation more scanty, consisting of nothing but Rhododendrons. + +At 12,000 feet, Eriogonum minus, Polygonum, Rheum, Rhodod. microphyllum +and ellipticum foliis basi cordatis. + +About the Pass, Trichostomum, _Xyris_, Abies densa, one small plant, +Rosa, Eriogonum minus, Rhododendron microphyllum and ellipticum foliis +basi cordatis. + +On the more level ridge between this Pass and the summit, Rhododendrons +still were most frequent, Triticoides umbellifera of Royle, Eriogonum +majus, woods of Abies densa occurred a little below the path, Gentiana +maxima, 4-pedalis folliculis bipollicaribus, Lilium uniflorum, Potentilla +common between this and 9,000 feet, Rosa microphyllum, Juniperus, +Epilobium minus of Dhonglaila, Rheum. Large black crow, Pedicularis, +Saxifraga, Umbellifera alia, Compositae, Spiraea. + +At the summit, no woody vegetation was visible, except Rhododendrons; the +firs being confined below. + +The descent at first through Rhododendron, then for a long time entirely +through vast woods of Abies densa, most of the larger trees of this are +apparently blasted, it has a tabular form, and very sombre appearance, +and can be recognized even at great distances by its black columnar palm- +like appearance. + +At 11,000 feet, Acer sterculiacea, Rosa microphylla, Ribes, which ceases +below 10,000 feet, it is confined to the A. densa woods. + +At 10,500 feet, Saxifraga, two species on moist banks, A. densa woods, +small Umbellifera. + +The sward commences at about 10,000 feet, and is common at 9,500 feet. It +is clothed principally with the small bamboo noticed in similar places +above Sanah. Berberis spathulata commences. It is with this sward that +a new fir, with a larch-like look, which I call temporarily Abies +spinulosa, commences, and continues down to the nullah, becoming more +abundant as A. densa becomes less abundant, and finally usurping its +place entirely. Rhododendron microphyllum continues to 9,600 feet, at +which point Baptisoidea commences. + +The vegetation hence to Bhoomlungtung consists entirely of Abies +spinulosa, intermixed with a species very like Abies pendula, this +appears at about 9,500 feet. The sward consists of small grasses, Juncus +niveus, Gnaphalium, Hypericum of Mollong, suffrutex incertus. Juncus +effusus at 9,000 feet, with Prinsepia utilis. + +The marked indicators of great elevation are A. densa, Polygonum, Rheum! +Eriogona! Rhododendron microphyllum, ellipticum, and ellipticum foliis +basi cordatis, Epilobium, Triticoides, Holcoides, Umbellifera of Royle, +Saxifragae, Ribes, Juniperus. + +The most marked peculiarity is the comparative absence of A. densa on the +east side of the mountain, and its excessive abundance on the west. This +valley may be justly called the valley of pines, for in no direction is +any forest to be seen but those composed of pines. The change indeed is +extraordinary, in other respects as indicated by the presence of a new +Rosa and Prinsepia utilis. Another peculiarity is the appearance for the +first time of A. spinulosa. The range of which is between 8 to 10,000 +feet; this is a beautiful tree, and disposed in beautiful groups. The +valley altogether is a beautiful one, and actually repays one for the +trouble endured in getting access to it. + +The temperature in crossing the ridge was below that on Dhonglaila, and +below the freezing point at times. No inconvenience was felt by us from +the elevation, but many of our servants suffered probably as much from +fright as cold. + +_February 27th_.--Halted. + +_February 28th_.--This valley is certainly the prettiest place we have +yet seen, the left bank is particularly level, but neither are of much +breadth, the hills adjacent present rounded grassy patches, interspersed +with beautiful groves of pines. The level space, as well as the more +favourable sites on the slopes of the hills, are occupied by wheat +cultivation, which is carried on in a more workman-like manner, than any +of the previous cultivation I have hitherto seen. The fields are +occasionally surrounded with stone walls, but generally only protected +from the inroads of cattle by branches of thorny shrubs strewed on their +edges. They are kept clean, and above all, manure is used: it is however +dry and of a poor quality, apparently formed of animal and vegetable +moulds. In some of the fields the surface is kept very fine, all stones +and clods being carefully removed and piled up in various parts of the +field, but whether these masses are again strewed over the ground. The +plough is used, and penetrates to about four inches. Hoes and rakes are +also used, but the angle of the handle is much too acute. Radishes are +grown with the wheat: no rice is cultivated here. + +The village Bhoomlungtung, at which we are stationed is on the left bank +of a branch of the Bhoomla nullah, a river of some size, but fordable in +most places, its bed being subdivided. It is 8,668 feet above the sea. +The houses are ordinary, but they are surrounded with stone walls. Our's, +which is a portion of the Dhumpas or headman's, has a court-yard, +surrounded by a stone wall, and the entrance is defended by a stout and +large door. The natives invariably wear dark clothing, the colour being +only rivalled by that of their skins, for I never saw dirtier people. The +Bhooteas hitherto visited, were quite paragons of cleanliness compared to +those we are now among. Half ruined villages are visible here and there, +although otherwise the appearance of the valley is prosperous enough. The +valley is surrounded on all sides by hills of great altitude, the lowest +being 10,500 feet high. Snow is plentiful on the ridges, but it does not +remain long below, although falls are frequent. No fish are to be seen +in the river, which is otherwise as regards appearance as beautiful a +trout stream as one could wish to have. The birds are the common +sparrow, field-fare, red-legged crow, magpie, skylark, a finch which +flies about in large flocks, with a sub-forked tail, raven, red-tailed +stonechat, larger tomtit, syras, long-tailed duck, and quail, which is +much larger than that found in Assam. The woods are composed entirely of +Abies pendula, a few A. spinulosa occur, intermixed, but the woods of the +latter species are scarcely found below 9,500 feet. The ridges are +clothed with the columnar Abies densa. In thickets a smaller Rosa, +Rhododendron ellipticum, foliis basi cordatis, Rhododendron elliptica, +foliis subtus argenteis, Rhodod. gemmis viscosis. Berberis asiatica, +Hamamelidea? Bambusa microphyllum, Philadelphus, Thibaudia orbicularis, +Mespilus microphyllus, Taxus or Abies Brunonis, Ilex dipyrena, occur. The +sward shews small grasses, all past flower, Hemiphragma, Thymus, +Dipsacus, Juncus niveus, Gnaphalia 2, 3, Potentilla. + +The fields have Crucifera Lamium and Verbascum, a late biennial species, +Caule simplici, Hemiphragma. + +The marshy spots abound with Juncus effusus, and shew also a Primula out +of flower, and a Xyris past flowering. + +Along the bed of the river, Hippophae is the most common plant. Lastly, +a few trees occur of Q. ilecifolia, which assumes a very handsome +character, looking much like a Conifera at some distance, one group +occurs near the village, and a solitary tree or two elsewhere. The other +woody vegetables are Rosa fructibus hispidis, Cycnium, Pomacea arbuscula, +and one or two other deciduous shrubs. The willow tree is also common. + +_March 1st_.--Marched to Byagur, we were told that the march was a +short one, and that we should continue throughout along the Bhoomlungtung +river, which is called Tung-chiew. We did keep along this for about two +miles, when we struck off into the hills passing through a village, we +continued rising for perhaps 1,000 feet, when we descended to a small +nullah. Leaving this we commenced an ascent, and a very long one too, +and continued to ascend until we surmounted the ridge overlooking the +river, on which Byagur or Iugur is situated. To the place we descended, +the march was fourteen miles, direction westerly. Highest ground +traversed about 9,500 feet high. Road throughout winding round and up +hills, through woods of Abies pendula: nothing of interest occurred. +Magpies, crows, chatterer feeding on pine cones, common in woods at 9,000 +feet. Passed two or three villages, all containing ruined houses. +Direction we pursued was that of the Tung-chiew river, until we reached +the ridge guiding the Byagur river to it: their junction takes place two +or three miles below this place, Cycnium occurred on the road in plenty, +also Sarcococea. + +Horseshoe curlew, the same as we shot at Daimara, common in the +Tung-chiew, along which the chief shrubs are Hippophae and Elaeagnus, +particularly in the islets which are not uncommon in its bed. The common +water wagtail also occurs. + +I find that the root of the common Potentilla is used here, as about +Nunklow, as a substitute for _sooparee_, it is unpleasantly astringent. +Observed Rhododendron microphylla on the loftier ground; very high land, +18,000 feet visible to the south along the course of Tung-chiew, covered +with heavy snow: Abies pendula is occasionally a beautiful tree, 100 feet +high, and in appearance something like a cedar, the finest occurs at a +monastery under a bluff rock, about one and a half mile from +Bhoomlungtung on the Tung-chiew; Daphne papyriferae occurred at 9,000 +feet. The heaps of earth piled up in the fields before sowing, consist +of burnt rubbish, the ashes are subsequently spread out. The manure +consists entirely of vegetables: here I find that the pine leaves are +piled up, and formed into manure by fermentation. + +_March 2nd_.--Byagur, the Soobah's house is about 500 feet above us, +and is a huge rambling edifice. We are in a village situated in a rather +capacious valley, percolated by a large river, twice the size of the Tung- +chiew, which is crossed by an ordinary bridge, the river runs close to +the hills, which form the left bank, the right is a sort of plain, +occupied by wheat cultivation, and which has apparently at a former +period, been the bed of the river. In this valley other villages are +visible, but they are small, and nothing indicates either fertility or +prosperity. The valley is surrounded on all sides by high mountains, +those towards Bhoomlungtung being lowest. To the north-east very high +land is visible. The ridge which separates us from Tongse is, in the +highest parts, certainly 12,000 feet, and covered with snow. The people +are dirty to an excess. + +Crow, sparrow, Alauda, are the birds here. Saw a fox, an animal of some +size, with a beautiful brush. The botany is poor, the hills are clothed +with the usual grasses, abundance of Abies pendula. The khets or fields +present the old Lamium and Crucifera. The only trees are one of Q. +ilecifolia, and one or two of Salix lanata. + +_March 3rd_.--Cycnium is found here, but is put to no use. The crops +which are now springing up are very poor, the soil being extremely bad, +they are irrigated by means of canals, but terraces are not in use, the +ground being too level, the embankments are much smaller than those used +in rice cultivation. + +The place is bleak in the extreme, and here, as often on the western face +of the Himalaya, at this season a fierce diurnal wind rises directly the +sun gets power, which always blows up the ravines or against the streams +draining these, it dies away towards evening, generally. It is cold in +the extreme, and must check vegetation extremely. Syras, common here, as +at Bhoomlungtung. + +The ridge above this which is crossed coming from Bhoomlungtung, is 9,947 +feet high, yet no snow was on the ground. The contrast between it and +Pemee in regard to snow and vegetation is remarkable; there the woods +were thick, luxuriant, and varied, here nothing is to be seen but Abies +pendula. I consider this a proof that A. pendula is a native of places +below much snow, and that where snow abounds, it will not be found to +extend above 8,000 feet. The dwarf bamboo of Sanah is common here, +covering large patches of ground, Lamium of Bulphai in the vicinity of +temples, and enclosing pagodas. The people here evince great skill in +figures, but none in architecture. + +The Soobah's house, a castellated heterogeneous mansion, spread over much +ground, the defences on one side reaching nearly to the level of the +valley. The Kumpa dogs are fierce and handsome, with the bark of a +mastiff, they are not apparently deterred by threats, but rather the +contrary. A woman with dropsy, wrapped in filthy clothes, presented +herself and evinced great anxiety to have her pulse felt, but the dirt of +her clothes was such, that I made excuses. + +Manure for the land consists of pine leaves, etc. mixed with cow-dung. +The cattle are well littered; and grass is here of rather better +description: all cattle are however in wretched condition +notwithstanding, and the cows give very little milk. The houses of the +poorer orders, are unornamented, but those of the better classes are +always ornamented with a belt of red ochre outside. There are no large +boulders in the river here, although it runs with violence. This is +owing to the softness or tenacity of the rocks. + +_March 4th_.--Our march commenced with a steep ascent up the ridge, +forming the west boundary of the valley, surmounting this we proceeded on +for some distance at about the same level, and thence descended rapidly +to a nullah. We then ascended slightly, and subsequently descended to +the valley, in which the village Jaisa is situated. The distance was +nine miles; the march was pretty, almost entirely through fir woods, +three villages were visible in a valley to the left, which is in fact the +termination of the Jaisa one, but beyond the valleys no cultivation +whatever was visible. + +The first part was up a barren grassy slope, after which we entered fir +woods, these at first were almost entirely constituted of Abies pendula. + +At 9,000 feet Chimaphila, Berberis spathulata, Abies pendula, Bambusa +microphylla of Sanah, Mespilus microphyllus, Rhododendron elliptica, +foliis basi cordatis subtus argenteis, Philadelphus Lycopod. of Surureem, +Gaultheria nummularifolia, Rhododendron viscosum. + +At 9,300 feet, Abies spinulosa becomes more common, Rosa hispida and +microphylla! Pinus cedroides commences, Dalibarda, Daphne papyracea, +Thymus, Gnaphalia, Mespilus and Berberis, as before, Potentilla. + +At 9,500 feet, snow lying on the path in sheltered places, Euphorbia, +Gaultheria arboreoides, Hypnum rubescens, scolopendrioids, Pteris +aquilina, Melianthus, Rosa, frutex erectus ramis hispidissimis, ramulis +subglabratis, fructibus pendulis glabris, tubo-ovato, sepalis +lanceolatis. Salix arbuscula, gemmis rubur glabris, foliis lanceolatis +subtus glaucis, amentis faeminies pendulis, Bupleurum, Hydrangea, Spiraea +densa belloides! Prunella, Pinus cedroides common at Potentilla. + +At 9,700, 9,800, to 10,000 feet, Abies densa, a few trees, as usual many +blasted, from lightning confined entirely towards the summit, Acer +sterculiacea, Aruncus, Thibaudia orbicularis, A. spinulosa very common, +A. pendula ceases, or at most only stunted plants occur, Mespilus +microphyllus, Berberis spathulata, Baptisia, these were very common on +west face, which is level enough and open. + +Here also Pedicularis, Bupleurum, stunted Pteris aquilina, Polygonum, +Rheum! Avena! Pendulous lichens luxuriant. Along the level tracts, the +woods consisted entirely of Abies spinulosa, a minute Gentiana common on +the sward. + +The descent was steep to the ravine; half-way down A. pendula commenced +to flourish, and towards the ravine it was more common than A. spinulosa; +Rhododendron microphyllum was seen on this face at 9,500 feet, Verbascum +at 9,200 feet, but most of the plants seen on the east face were not +found on this. Acer sterculiacea, however occurred at 9,800 feet, +otherwise pines were the most prominent feature. + +At the nullah, Dipsacus, Elaeagnus, Salix lanata, Artemisia major, Daphne +papyracea, Rhododendron viscosum, Mespilus microphyllus, Rosa hispida, +spinus acutissimis, Bambusa of Sanah, Plectranthus a large suffruticose +annual species, common in all the same altitudes, were observed. The +subsequent descent was through woods of A. pendula, with a few of A. +spinulosa intermixed. + +The limits of A. densa, A. spinulosa and A. pendula, Melianthus, Acer +sterculiacea, Thibaudia orbicularis, A. cedroides, Rosa microphylla, +Pedicularis, Hydrangea, Baptisia, Berberis spathulata were well +determined. They may be expressed as follows: A. densa, 10 to 13,000 +feet, A. spinulosa, 9 to 10,500 feet, A. pendula, 6 to 9,000 feet, +Melanthus, 9,500 feet, Acer sterculiaceum, 9,800 to 10,000 feet, +Thibaudia orbicularis, 10,000 feet, A. cedroides, 9,000 to 9,800 feet, +Rosa microphylla, 9,800 to 13,000 feet, Pedicularis, 10 to 12,500 feet, +Hydrangea, 4 to 10,000 feet unless two species are confounded, Baptisia, +9 to 9,800 feet, Berberis spathulata, 9 to 10,000 feet. + +_Jaisa_ is a good sized village for Bootan, and the houses are rather +large. We were lodged in the castle, a large building, with a capacious +flagged court-yard, surrounded by galleries: we were housed in the grand +floor of the higher portion fronting the gate. A good deal of wheat +cultivation occurs around. The village is situated in a small nullah, +surrounded on all sides by pine-clad hills. The vegetation is precisely +the same as at Juggur, with the exception of a Ligustrum, which is common +along the nullah. Larks, red-legged crows and ravens, abound here. + +_March 5th_.--Our march consisted of a progress along levelish ground +up the river, occasionally rounding small eminences: we then commenced +the ascent of a ridge, the summit of which we reached about half past- +twelve. Snow is common above 9,000 feet. The descent was steep and +uninterrupted from about 2,000 feet, when we reached a small river. +Thence we ascended a little to descend again, we continued over a ravine +at nearly the same level, for some time proceeding over undulated ground: +on reaching the debouchure of the ravine into a larger one running north +and south, we commenced to descend rapidly until we came to an elevation +situated above Tongsa, to this place the descent was excessively steep. +The march was thirteen miles long, the direction west. + +At a temple near Jaisa found the Juniper of Oongar in flower, and +arboreous, attaining a height of about 40 feet. The whole march up, +nearly to the summit, was through pine woods, A. pendula and spinulosa +being intermixed for some time. I noticed Primula globifera, Eucalypta, +Thibaudia orbicularis, Aruncus, Rosa ramis hispidis, Dipsacus, Prunella, +Potentilla, Gnaphalium, Sphagnum, Daphne papyracea, Tofieldia, Gaultheria +nummularoides, as we approached the base of the ridge or rather the spot +at which the ascent commenced. At this place Abies cedroides commenced, +and Abies pendula became uncommon. + +On a bank here, I gathered abundance of mosses, Bartramia, Dicrana, etc. +and some Jungermanniae. + +The ascent was through precisely similar vegetation, in one place it was +exceedingly pretty, consisting of sward with pines. Here snow was lying +on the ground in sheltered places to the depth of several inches. The +ground hence was levelish, but between this place and the summit a rise +of a hundred feet took place. Between these places Abies densa, +cedroides and spinulosa, occurred, but this was uncommon, Rosa ramis +hispidis, Salix of yesterday, Bambusa of Sanah, stunted Pteris aquilina, +Betuloidea, Hydrangea, Hypnum rufescens, scolopendrioid as well as below: +Spiraea belloides, Rhododendron obovatum, which varies on the same plant +with ferruginous and white leaves, Sphagnum, Thibaudia orbicularis. On +sward Gentiana minima. + +As the snow increased, Abies cedroides became less, Abies densa more +common. At the very summit Parnassia, Polygonum rheum, Composita +penduliflora, Rhododendron hispidum, Berberis spathulata, which had +occurred previously, Vaccinium pumilium, ciliatum, Gentiana minima, +Swertia, Cnicus, Compositae frequent, Labiata spicata of Dhonglaila. + +The descent was at first open, through swardy places: here Acer +sterculiaceum, Geranium scandens, Avena, Abies densa, Juniperus +fruticosa, raro arbuscula. + +At 9,800 feet, Rhododendron foliis lanceolato-oblongis subtus ferruginea +tomentosis, arborea, became very common, forming large woods, Abies densa +interspersed, Juniperus, Betuloidea which has six or seven layers of +bark, the _boj-putah_ of Hindoostan according to Blake, Rosa +microphylla, Hemiphragma, Daphne papyracea, Dicranum stratum, etc. + +At 9,500 feet, Clematis, Berberis asiatica, commences, Betula, common +Andropogoneous grasses. + +At 9,300 feet, Primula pulcherrima, Abies cedroides very common, Abies +densa ceasing, Buddlaea purpurescens, Aruncus, Bupleurum. + +At 9,200 feet, Lonicera villosa, Vaccinium cyaneum, Bambusa alia, Abies +densa ceasing. + +At 9,000 feet, the jungle now became humid, Gaultheria flexuosa, Mespilus +microphyllus, Quercus ilecifolia, Tetrantheroides baccis nigris, +Gaultherium nummularifolia common, Rubia cordifolia! Hydrangea. + +At 8,900 feet, Junipers cease, woods of Q. ilecifolia and Pinus +cedroides, Rosa microphylla, shrubby Rhododendrons, that which was +arboreous previously now becoming shrubby, Berberis asiatica, Taxus or +Abies brunonis! Lomaria of Khegumpa, Rhododendron foliis oblongis subtus +punctatis ferrugineis, Rubus, Primula Stuartii! Quercus foliis, Castaneae, +Ilex, Betuloid, continues. + +At 8,500 feet, Panax rhododendrifolia, Thibaudia obovata, Taxus +ophiopogon angustissimus, Rhododendron formosum majus! Smilax ruscoideus +vel gaultherifolia! Primula pulcherrima, very common. + +At 8,200 feet, Spiraea decomposita, Thibaudia obovata very common. No +firs, woods of oaks and Rhododendron majus, Panax rhododendrifolia and +another species; Bambusa. + +At the nullah, same vegetation, Tetranthera nuda, Primula pulcherrima, +Valeriana violifolia, Eurya acuminata, Daphne papyrifolia, Fragaria, +Potentilla supina, Rumex of Khegumpa, Poa annua, Stellaria media and +angustifolia, Rhodoracea deflexa! + +At 8,000 feet, the woods at this elevation have the same characters, +Rhododendron argenteum becomes common, Q. ilecifolia and Castaneae +facies, both very handsome and large trees, covered with pendulous +mosses, Sphaeropteris, Saxifragea viridis, fleshy Urticea, Oxalis major +on sward at the same elevation, Vaccinium cyaneum, Mespilus microphyllus, +Artemisia major, Gnaphalium, Dipsacus, Elaeagnus in woods, Tetranthera +nuda, Taxus, Gaultheria flexuosa nummularifolia, Vaccinium cyaneum, +Lomaria, Lonicera villosa, paper plant, Thibaudia orbicularis, Hedera. + +At 7,800 feet, towards open barren hills, Indigofera canescens, Q. robur, +Spiraea decomposita, Anthistiria minor, Composita penduliflora, Alnus of +Beesa, Juncus effusus, Viburnum caerulescens, Xyris, Scripus fuscescens +of Tassangsee, Gaultheria arborea and fruticosa, Polygonum rheoides, +Smilax auriculata, Saccharum aristata, Lobelia pyramidalis, Stauntonia +latifolia, Salix lanata, Deutzia. + +At 7,500 feet, Quercus tomentosa commences, between this and Tongsa, +Berberis asiatica is very common, Rosa sp., quarta, Cyaneum dycopod. of +Surureem, Ilex dipyrena, Tuipus, Kysoor of Churra, Apple, Gleichenia +major, Rubus deltoideus. In wheat fields, 7,500 feet, Crucifera, +Thlaspa, Lamium, Ervum, are found, Vaccinium cyaneum continues to 7,000 +feet, this Mespilus microphylla, Berberis asiatica, Cycnium, Lycopod. of +Surureem, Ilex, Daphne papyriferae, are the only elevational plants found +between 8 and 9,000 feet, and which continue low down. All the others +ceased with the jungles. + +_March 13th_.--_Tongsa_: this, although the second place in the +kingdom, is a poor wretched village, the houses, always excepting the +palace, are poorer than ordinary, abounding in rats, fleas, and other +detestable vermin. Our reception would seem to be uncordial: we are +miserably housed in the heart of the village, which is a beggarly one. On +descending the hill some people in the Pillo's house behaved very +insolently, roaring out, and making most insolent signs for me to +dismount, of which of course I took no notice: sparrow-hawk was seen at +8,000 feet. There is but little cultivation, indeed the adjoining hills +are barren in the extreme. The little cultivation there is of barley, +which is now in the ear, and decent enough; the crops being much better +than any we have yet seen, although in many fields it is difficult to see +any crop at all. The village, including the houses on the surrounding +adjoining heights does not contain thirty houses. There is one flock of +sheep, which are in good condition, some small shawl-goats, and a few +cattle, but of a lighter breed than the Mithans, from which they are very +distinct, and which we have scarcely seen since crossing Dhonglaila, the +first high ridge. There is some rice cultivation along the nullah or +torrent, on which the village is situated. Pears, peaches likewise +occur, and are now both in flower. The hills around are bare, nothing +but shrubby vegetation being visible, the tree-jungle not descending +below 7,500 feet, except on one spur to the south-west, on which it +reaches nearly to our present level. + +The shrubby vegetation consists of Hamamelidae, Salix, Gaultheria +fruticosa, Rosa, Rubus, Pomacea, Elaeagnus, Berberis asiatica, among +which Artemisia major occurs on sward. Primula Stuartii, Potentilla and +P. supina, Oxalis acetoseltoides, Juncus, Bartramia, Polytrichum glaucum, +Fragaria vesca. In the fields Lamium, Crucifera, Thlaspi, Gnaphalium +aureum, Prenanthoid, Fragaria indica, Viola, Ranunculus, Oxalis +acetosella, Poa annua. + +Urtica urens, and urentior occur about the houses, Cupressus pendula and +a Magnoliaceous tree, with exquisitely fragrant blossoms. + +The palace is a huge, long, straggling piece of patch-work, of ordinary +construction, and less imposing than that of Byagur, which the Pillo +makes his summer residence on the Bhoomlungtung; it is however ornamented +with three gilt umbrellas. It is situated on the bank of the nullah, and +defended by some outworks, 6 to 700 feet above it; to the east, these +might, from their situation, be easily demolished by stones. The palace +itself is commanded in every direction, particularly by the hill, along +which we came from Jaisa; indeed a person might jump from the summit of +this on to the outpost, and thence on to the palace; so precipitous is +the descent. + +The people, above all those hitherto seen, are dirty in their persons, +uniting curiosity with no small share of obstinacy and impertinence in +their manners. The birds are the blackbird, a black mina, the +house-sparrow, sparrow-hawk, larger crow, domestic pigeons, kites, and +hoopoo. The red-legged crows I have heard once, but far above, nor do I +think that they ever visit this. The productions being essentially +different from those of the elevated valleys we have lately quitted. Can +those valleys be the _steps_ to the table-land of Thibet to which they +must be near, and which is reached sooner in that direction than any +other? The idea of the high valleys in question being steps to table- +land is perhaps corroborated by the fact, that the table-land is said to +be within two days' journey from Byagur. + +Our interview with the Pillo took place on the 15th, it was conducted +with some state, and with some impertinence. The latter was indicated by +delaying us at the door of the audience room, the former by the +attendance of more numerous and better dressed attendants than usual. Two +Pillos were present. The incense as usual was burning, and the Pillos, +both old and new, were seated before some large Chinese-looking figures. +The only novel ceremony was the praying over a mess of something which I +imagine was meant for tea; in the prayer all joined, when finished the +beverage was handed to the Pillos, who, however, were contented with +merely tasting it. Before this some was strewn on the floor in front, +and some to the right of the chieftains. The castle was in places +crowded with people, no less than 5 to 600, but all were as dirty as +usual. None but the immediate attendants appeared armed. The new Pillo +is a dark low-looking man, with an incipient goitre, the old one a more +decent aristocratic looking person, good-looking and very fair. The +presents were of course beggarly, consisting of indifferent oranges, +wretched plantains, sugarcane of still worse quality, and ghee of an +abominable odour. + +March 17th.--We still remain here, and do not expect to leave for two or +three days. The weather is unsettled, and the sun increasing in power +daily. The new Soobahs left to-day for their appointments, with the +exception of the Dewangur one. Pigs are here fed on boiled nettle +leaves: old ladies may be seen occasionally busily employed in picking +the leaves for this purpose, and which they do by means of bamboo pincers +or tweezers. A few plantains may be met with here, but in a wretched +state. Rice may be seen 500 feet above this, on the north of the castle, +the slope of a hill being appropriated to its cultivation; the terraces +above, owing to the inclination, are very narrow, and from the paucity of +straw, the crops must, I should infer, be very poor. + +_March 22nd_.--To-day we took our leave of the Pillo, who received us +in a room to the south of the castle. He was friendly enough, but begged +for presents unconscionably. He was surrounded by a considerable number +of more mean-looking persons than ordinary. On the previous meeting he +talked openly of being at enmity with the present Deb Rajah, but on this +occasion he said little on the subject. + +The castle is an ill-built, and worse arranged building, the windows and +loopholes being so placed as to afford every facility for shooting into +the air. In a court-yard, several tiger skins brought from the plains, +are suspended. + +It now appears that this Pillo, who said previously that the new Deb was +never installed, is himself an usurper, previously handing the old Deb +from the throne. This latter personage appears to be by far the more +popular of the two. The Pillo must now have great influence, as all the +posts in his division, are either held by his own sons, or by his more +influential servants. The sons by the bye are, so long as they remain in +the presence, treated like ordinary servants. Joongar is held by one of +his sons, a lad of about eighteen, of plain but pleasing appearance and +of good manners. He visited us yesterday, and his newly acquired rank +sat easily on him. The old Pillo no doubt owes his rank to his having +been the father of the lad chosen to be Dhurma Rajah, he is himself very +evidently low-born and low-bred, and compared with the former one, so +poor a specimen, that the greater popularity of the former is not to be +wondered at. From all we have heard, they are contemptible rulers, as +they appear to do nothing but intrigue for power among themselves. +Changes are hence excessively frequent, and were they attended with much +bloodshed, the country would be depopulated. + +This evening we had ample proof that the Bhootea houses are not water- +proof. Heavy showers occurred with thunder and dense clouds from the +south-west. + +_March 23rd_.--We left Tongsa, proceeding through the castle, and +thence struck down to the river Mateesun. The descent was very steep, +and amounted to about 1,200 feet. The river is crossed by an ordinary +bridge, it is a large and violent stream and contains fish, some of +which, seen by Blake, were of large size. Crossing this, we continued +throughout the remainder of the march, gradually rising along the ridges +bounding the Tongsa river. We continued rising until we reached our +halting place, Taseeling. In one or two places, the road was completely +built up; ascending by zig-zags up, in some degree, perpendicular cliffs. +The distance was seven miles. + +Proceeding to the bridge, observed Rubus deltoideus, Pomacea, Quercus +tomentosa, Artemisia major, Cycnium, Gaultheria arborea and fruticosa, +Buddlaea, Quercus altera, Indigofera cana, Gaylussacia serratoides, +Hedera, Thibaudia myrtifolia, Pomacea sauraugifolia, Viburnum +caerulescens, Quercus robur budding, Pterogonium, Fragaria, Duchesnia. + +The remaining hills were much similar, generally very bare, clothed with +partial woods of Q. tomentosa, Rhododendron minus; the oak changing to Q. +robur, as we increased our elevation. Near the bridge noticed +Bucklandia, Erythrina, which is likewise found at Tongsa, Maesa +salicifolia, Urena lobata, Cnicus, Mimosea! Arbuscula inermis, Senecio +scandens in flower, Araliacea subscandens, Didymocarp. contort., a +Solenia, Betuloideus, Panax curcifolia, Alnus, Arundo, Anthistiria +arundinacea, Cerasus, Tricerta unisexualis, at 6,000 feet. + +At about the same elevation Rhododendron minus becomes common, Primula +Stuartii, Dipsacus, Verbenacea exostemma, Scleria, Valeriana, +Tradescantia on rocks, with Saxifraga ligularia in full flower at 6,500 +feet. + +About this, 6,500 to 6,800 feet, Spiraea decomposita, Hamamelidea here a +tree, occasionally but small, Erythroxyloides, Conyza nivea and communis, +Gleichenia major, Parochetus communis on wet dripping rocks, Woodwardia, +Clematis ternata. + +At 7,000 feet, Berberis asiatica, Q. tomentosa ceased, its place being +supplied by Q. robur, Verbascum, Juncus, Gaultheria nummularioid, +Mespilus microphyllus, Scirpus fuscus of Tassangsee, Thibaudia +gaultherifolia, Rubia cordifolia, Azalea, and Daphne capitulis pendulis, +Ranunculus uniflorus, Hydroctyle. + +Taseeling is situated about 2,000 feet above the Mateesun, on a nakedish +hill; about it there is some cultivation, and one or two villages, one +towards Tongsa and above Taseeling of some size. The place itself +consists of a large house, with some fine specimens of Cypressus pendula, +the east face of the house has the red stripe, indicative of rank. Its +elevation is about 7,300 feet, close to the house I observed the Lamium +of Bulphai, Bursa pastoris, Oxalis corniculata, Cnicus out of flower, +Artemisia major, Fragaria vesca, Daphne pendula and papyracea, +Hemiphragma, Composita pendulifolia, Lycopod. of Surureem, Hypericum, +Berberis asiatica, Juniperus; Barley cultivation, and a Pomaceous +arbuscula, armat. ovar. 5-discretis. The red-legged crow occurs here, +and a thrush much resembling our English one. The raven of course +occurs. A curious opening occurs in the hills at Taseeling, affording a +prospect of the Bag Dooar plains, seven days' journey distant, but the +road is bad. + +_March 24th_.--Leaving Taseeling we commenced to ascend until we +rounded a ridge, when we turned to the west, we then commenced to +descend, but slightly, winding over undulated surfaces of barrenish +hills. After some time we reached heavy tree jungle, the road proceeding +in the same undulating manner, so that it was impossible to say whether +we had risen or descended. About one we came on the river, up the ravine +of which we had been advancing ever since turning to the west. This +stream is of some size, very violent and rapid, but fordable. Near this +is a large pagoda, built after the old Boodhistical style, and the only +respectable one we have yet seen, its site is pretty, and it is +ornamented above with eyes and a fiery-red nose. Leaving this we +ascended along one bank of the river, until we reached Chindupjee, our +halting place; this was distant from the pagoda three miles, and from +Taseeling twelve. This latter part reminded me of Bhoomlungtung; firs +being the prevailing trees, and the valley having more pretensions to the +name than usually happens. + +We encamped in a beautiful spot, the house being situated on fine sloping +sward, surrounded by picturesque trees of Q. ilecifolia, a few tall +Cypressus standing up in the centre. The village is a few feet above, +and of average size, although it looks from a little distance to be of +considerable size. The march throughout was beautiful, especially after +entering the wooded tract; this reminded me of the march near Khegumpa, +the woods were here and there very picturesque, glades and swards +abounding, water was very abundant here, and this no doubt causes the +development of so much vegetation. + +At 7,800 feet, Thibaudiaceae very common, Rhododendron two species, +Gaultheria flexuosoides, Thibaudia obovata, Caudata myrtifolia, +Hydrangea, which I find to be a climber, Rhododendron majus, commencing, +pine wood; chatterers heard here. Hills naked or covered here and there +with stunted wood; marshy places common. + +At 7,600 feet, Lomaria of Khegumpa, Tetranthera nuda, Sphaeropteris, pear +and apple, Q. tomentosa, Magnolia grandiflora begins, Polygonum rheoides, +Daphne pendula, which is used, as well as the other, both here and in +Nepal in the manufacture of paper: brick-red black-pate. + +At this same elevation farther on, Rosa hispida! Gillenia, Juncus, +Rhododendron deflexa, Smilax gaultherifolia, Spiraea bella, Dipsacus, +Spiraea decomposita, Ilex, Vaccinium cyaneum, Magnolia grandiflora very +common. The country now becomes more wooded, the woods being confined to +moist ravines, and in other situations where water is very plentiful, the +woods throughout become continuous, and forming the large forests before +mentioned: having the open spaces between the woods covered with sward, +on which Gentiana pygmaea, and Fragaria are very common. + +[Chindupjee: p272.jpg] + +As we approached the wood or forest, Pinus cedroides commenced, and +towards the valley of Chindupjee this species became very common, Rumex +occurred throughout in wet places, also at Taseeling. Geranium is common +also in wet places, Stauntonia latifolia, Potentilla, Duchesnoides, +Tussilago of Churra, on the confines of wood and on it. Here the orange +breasted trochilus occurred. The mass of the wood is formed of a fine +Quercus, resembling Q. glauca, it is a beautiful and a shady tree. Next +to it in abundance is Rhododendron majus, now in full flower, and forming +a beautiful object, Rhododendron minus ceases with the barrener tracts. +Magnolia is very conspicuous; Pinus cedroides common towards the pagoda; +Eurya not rare, Gaultheria nummulifolia continues throughout, Valeriana +violifolia, Oxalis acetoselloides, Bryum, Butia purpurea, Sambucus, +Saxifraga of Bulphai, and another species, Bambusa microphylla, Swertia, +Luzula, Thibaudia orbicularis, Primula Stuartii, occurred between the +commencement of the ascent and the pagoda; at between 7,300 to 7,600 +feet, Magnolia odoratis. + +At the pagoda and village, Pinus cedroides, P. pendula, Bambusa of Sanah, +Mespilus microphyllus, Magnolia grandiflora, Berberis asiatica, Q. +anthoxylia, Coriaria, Rosa altera of Bhoomlungtung, Elaeagnus, Salix and +Allium of Bulphai, occur. + +Chindupjee is situated on a rivulet close to the confluence, with a +larger stream. Around it, or at least between the village and the larger +stream, picturesque patches of sward bordered with a very picturesque +oak. Q. ilecifolia occur; this tree predominates all about the village, +it is certainly the prettiest place we have yet seen. + +Some cultivation occurs around, chiefly of barley, with a little portion +of radishes. The valley is surrounded by comparatively low mountains, +most of which are rather bare, many are transversely furrowed on the +surface, this may arise from their having been at some former period +under cultivation.--The prevailing trees on the surrounding heights are +firs, Pinus pendula and cedroides. No fish are to be seen in the river. +The birds are the raven, white-necked starling, _bullfinch_, crimson and +yellow shrikelets, blue tomtits, lesser ditto with two stripes on the +head, white-rumped waterchat, red-tailed chesnuty sparrow. + +The plants are Q. ilecifolia, Magnolia grandiflora, Laurinea, +Hamamelidioides, Castanea aromatica, Pinus cedroides and pendula, Bambusa +microphylla, and B. of Sanah which may be a variety depending on its +marshy sites, Rhododendron minus, Salix, Mespilus microphyllus, +Gaultheria nummularoides, Elaeagnus, Marchantia, Swertia, Rumex, Daphne +papyracea, Dipsacus, Artemisia major, Berberis asiatica, Rosa hispida, +Rubus caesius, Stauntonia latifolia, Tofieldioid of Sanah and Pemee, +Taxus, Mespilus microphyllus, Ilex dipyrena, Oxalis acetoselloid, Thymus, +Lycopodium of Surureem, Juniperus. + +Bamboos split and inverted, and then placed in the ground, are used to +scare away beasts from the cornfields. + +_March 26th_.--Left at seven and a half and proceeded along the river +which runs by Chindupjee, the path running over the spurs of the hills, +forming its right bank. After proceeding about four miles, we crossed +the nullah, changing our direction, and proceeding up a tributary, until +we reached a prettily situated, and rather large village, thence we +commenced to ascend over naked slopes with intervening woods, until we +reached the base of the chief ascent, which is not very steep, although +of good length, chiefly over naked hills. On reaching the summit, which +is about 10,000 feet high, we commenced to descend, and the descent +continued uninterruptedly and steeply until we reached Rydang, where we +halted. + +We passed only one village, which is about five miles from Chindupjee, +and of similar size; but we passed in the more elevated places two +temporary ones, apparently intended for the residence of the herdsmen of +yaks or chowry-tailed cows, as a herd of these animals was seen feeding +near each place. + +The march throughout was beautiful, in the more elevated and drier +portions, winding over swardy slopes or through woods of fir trees: on +the descent from 9,000 feet downwards, passing through beautiful forests, +chiefly of oak, and diversified in every possible way. The long-tailed +pie was met with in the first portion, about 7,800 feet, the speckled +chatterers at 8,500 feet, red shrikelet at 7,800 feet, and a new hawk at +8,300 feet. I observed the water-ouzel again as high as 8,000 feet. The +new plants were a Carex, 6,500 feet, a sileneous plant past flowering, +from the _same_ limestone formation. + +At 7,800 feet, and not far from Chindupjee, Pinus spinulosa again +re-appears, it becomes common towards the village alluded to, and +continues throughout the ascent, up to 9,300 feet, P. cedroides was +uncommon during the first part of the march, its place being occupied by +P. spinulosa, afterwards it re-appeared, and continued abundant up to +9,300 feet, it re-appeared on the descent about the same elevation, and +continued to about 8,000 feet. Abies densa commences at the base of the +chief ascent: at 10,000 feet, it is the only fir to be seen, it descends +but a short way on the Rydang side. In the higher portions it occurred +mixed with a Juniper, which in proper places becomes a small but elegant +tree. + +At the village on 7,000 feet, observed Rosa hispida, Ligustram of Jaisa, +Philadelphus, Pinus spinulosa common, as also Pinus cedroides, Bambusa of +Sanah very common. Near this, larks were heard soaring high above us. + +At 8,500 feet, Pendulous lichens becoming plentiful, Lonicera villosa. + +At 9,000 feet, Abies densa appears, Acer sterculium, Betula, Bogh Pata, +Rhododendron fruticosa, foliis ellipticis basi cordatis. + +At 9,300 feet, Abies densa common, P. cedroides rare, spinulosa 0, +pendula 0, Rosa hispida, Gaultheria nummularioid, which as usual +continued throughout, Hypnum scolopendroid, Sphagnum, Bogh Pata very +common, Rhododendron foliis ellipticis basi cordatis subtus argenteis, +which I found on the descent as low as 8,000 feet. + +At 9,500 feet, Bogh Pata very common, trees covered with Pendulous +lichens, Bambusa of Sanah, Abies densa everywhere. + +At 10,000 feet, Abies densa, Juniperus, Rhododendron obovata, foliis +subtus argenteis; I am not sure whether this is a variety or not, but it +indicates greater elevation than the ferruginous one, Rhododendron +gemmis, viscosis, foliis lanceolatis, supra venosis subtus subargenteis +very common, Gnaphalium, Mespilus microphyllus, Rosa hispida, Swertia, +Berberis spathulata, Orthotuck, Cerastum inflatum, Hemiphragma, Bogh +Pata, Primula globifera, Pedicularis, Dicranum nigrescens, etc. Limonia, +Laureah. + +Daphne papyraceae occurs at the same elevation, chiefly on the side of +the descent. From this place an opening is visible to the north west, +occupied by low hills. Juniperus very fine occurs, Compositae abundant. +Snow lies in the hollows and sheltered woods. + +At 9,600 feet, Lonicera villosa, Rosa microphylla, Buddlaea purpurescens! +Berberis spathulata, Spiraea belloides, Hydrangea! Rhododendron foliis +lanceolatis, etc. as above, forming thick woods, Abies densa, Bogh Pata, +Bambusa, Limonia lanceolata. + +At 9,400 feet, Prunella, Cerastium inflatum, Labiata spicata, Baptisia! +High ground 14 to 15,000 feet, is seen forming a lofty heavily snowed +ridge to the north. + +At 9,000 feet, Pinus cedroides re-appears, Bogh Pata, Rhododendron as +before, Daphne papyraceae, Thibaudia orbicularis, Limonia lanceolata, +Dalibarda, Polygonum rheum! + +At 8,800 feet, Rhododendron hispida, Abies densa ceased, Limonia +lanceolata common, Lonicera villosa, Rebus triphyllus, Acer! Taxus! +Primula Stuartii! Rubia cordifolia!! + +At 8,500 feet, Chimaphila, Rhododendron obovata-ferrugina! Pinus +cedroides, here and there, of immense size, diameter of one-six feet, +Lycopodium of Surureem, Bogh Pata, Gaultheria flexuosa, Q. ilecifolia, +also a very large and tall tree. + +At 8,400 feet, Taxus very common, Smilax gaultherifolia, Olea, Sarcococea +very common, Thibaudia orbicularis, Laurinea, Hamameloides. Beautiful +glades here occurred, trees covered with mosses: another fine oak, Q. +castaneoides commences, Daphne papyraceae very common, Composita +penduliflora, Hemiphragma, Rhododendron elliptica, foliis basi, cordatis +subtus punctatis, Ilex! Berberis intermedia, Laurinea uniflora, large +Umbellifera of Rodoole descent. + +At 8,000 feet, Acer, Primula Stuartii, Rhododendron majus! R. argentea +commences. + +At 7,500 feet, Cedar ceased, Rhododendron majus very common, Taxus +diminishing, Sphaeropteris, Ericinia soloraefolia, Lomaria of Khegumpa, +Thibaudia orbicularis ceases. + +At 7,300 feet, Berberis pinnata, Spiraea bella, Cycnium, apple tree. Here +we emerged on open space in front of a hill, on which several detached +houses stood, around which Pinus pendula was very common. Barley +cultivation. Several small villages visible around, and to the north, in +front of the snowy ridge, a curious truncated mountain was seen, its apex +covered with snow. + +Magnolia! Conaria! Cycnium, Viburnum canescens! Gaultheria arborea, +Berberis intermedia very common, Fragaria. + +At 7,200 feet, Q. tomentosa! the others have ceased, Gaultheria +fruticosa, Rhododendron arborea, minus and argentea, in fine flower, +Eurya aecuminata, Smilax, Gaultherifolia, Thibaudia caudata, Q. robur, +Gleichenia major, Salix as before, Artemisia major, Rumex, Valeriana +violifolia, Rosa, Berberis asiatica, Ervicia crucifera, Thlaspi, +Callitriche, Calamus. + +The curious features are, the absence of Thibaudia obovata on the +descent, and of Mespilus microphyllus, the substitution of Thibaudia +orbicularis, and its low descent, the abundance of Taxus, size of the +cedar and Q. ilecifolia, the re-appearance at same elevation of Magnolia +grandiflora, occurrence of Rubia cordifolia, at such an elevation, etc. + +_Rydang_ is prettily situated towards the bottom of a rather narrow +valley. There is a good deal of barley cultivation about it. I also +noticed Cycnium, Celopecurus, Acorus Calamus, Corydalis! Fragaria, +Cardamina, Rosa, Berberis, Ilex, Plantago, Rumex, Viola, Artemisia major, +Daphne papyraceae, Gentiana pygmaea of Khegumpa, Houttuynia! Pomacea, +Callitriche, Dipsacus, Berberis pinnata, Elaeagnus, Q. robur, ilecifolia. +Of birds the long-tailed pie! is common. Berberis asiatica, Viburnum, +Caneun, apple, Quercus microcarpus, Orthodon, Pteris aquilina, +Ophiopogon, Angustis, Valeriana violifolia, Urtica urentium, Stellaria +media, Eurya acuminata, Betula. + +_March 27th_.--Our march commenced with a steep descent to the Gnee, a +river of average size. We then continued descending along it for some +time, crossing it once on our way: we then diverged up a small nullah, +and then commenced a very steep ascent, of about 2,000 feet. After +attaining this, we proceeded through woods, or over sward at about the +same elevation, still continuing along the Gnee. We subsequently +commenced to descend at first through fine oak woods, then over barren +naked hills. We reached Santagoung, about three and a half miles +distance in a direct line, but fourteen miles by the road, highest point +traversed 8,000 feet; lowest reached 6,000. + +During first part of descent, noticed one or two straggling cedars and +Taxus, Primula Stuartii, the woods were formed by Quercus robur, +tomentosa, Gaultheria arborea, Rhododendron minus, Scabiosa reappears, +Clematis nova species, Sambucus, Rubus cresius, Composita pendulifolia, +etc. as at Rydang. + +Along the Gnee, the beech became plentiful, as also two Viburnums, both +trees, together with the Cupulifera of Tongsa was here common and in fine +foliage. Juglans, Incerta of Boodoo, Gaultheria, Mimosa arborea, +Cupressus pendula, Conaria, Berberis racemosa and pinnata, Quercus +microcarpus, Woodwardia, Thibaudia myrtifolia, Marlea! Cucurbitaceae +menispermoides, Alnus of Beesa, Polygonium rheoides, Mespilus +microphyllus! Gentiana pygmaea, Salix, Pyrus. The birds were the usual +water birds, viz. ouzel, slaty-white rump, slaty-red tail, white-pated +chat. + +On the smaller nullah Bucklandia, Viburnum microphyllum, Bucklandia! + +The ascent was at first through dry woods of Rhododendron minus, Q. +tomentosa, Gaultheria arborea, a Taxus or two occurred at 7,000 feet, +Indigofera cana, Rosa, Gaultheria fruticosa of Sanah aristatum. + +At 7,000 feet, the same vegetation continued, Rhododendron minus very +common, Pendulous lichens commencing. + +At this elevation, in more moist spots, woods thick, differently +constituted, Quercus glauescense, Castaneoides ilecifolia, here and there +Rhododendron majus, Magnolia grandiflora. + +Gaultheria flexuosa, Pinus cedroides rare, Vaccinium cyaneum, Rosa +hispida! Saxifraga! Thibaudia orbicularis and caudata, Mespilus +microphyllus, Azalea, Ilex, Symplocos, Tussalago of Churra, Acer, +Thibaudia obovata, Pendulous mosses abundant. + +The remainder of the vegetation afforded little of interest; consisted of +stunted oaks, Q. tomentosa, Gaultheria arborea, Rhododendron minus: +Serissoides reappears near Santagoung, Pinus longifolia, plantains. + +The valley to the left towards Santagoung is on the left side well +populated and cultivated. + +_March 28th_.--Santagoung, a small village 6,300 feet above the sea, +situated on bare hills, between two loftier ridges. Country around well +inhabited and well cultivated in the terrace style: villages numerous. +Pinus longifolia, Rosa, Azalea, etc. occur here as before. A lake or +jheel was observed 500 feet below the village, of some extent, formed in +a natural hollow, abounding with Scirpus trigueter of Churra, and +Hydropeltis. Water-fowl, snipe, and red pie-like peewit or plover. + +The march commenced with a steep descent, which continued until we +reached the river. + +Crossing this we ascended 1,000 feet, and then proceeded in an undulating +manner over naked hills until we reached Thain, distance six miles; the +greatest descent was about 1,800 feet, ascent 1,000 feet; the country +naked; no forest. The hills for some extent towards Thain appeared from +some cause very red. + +But little interesting vegetation occurred: noticed a huge Cypressus +pendula, half-way to the Gnee. Vegetation otherwise much the same as +towards Tassgong, Valeriana violifolia, Azalea, Campanula linearis, Rubus +deltoides, Aspidium macroser., Artemisia major, Pinus longifolia +straggling, only plentiful near Thain, Anthistiria minor! Primula +Stuartii, Mimulus, Gentiana pumila, Alnus, Flemingia secunda, Morus +rubeseoides, Salix, Quercus, Viburnum microphyllum. + +At the river Caesalpinia! Ficus obliqua! Desmodium, Salix, Indigofera +cana, Arundo, Luculia. + +On the ascent Holcus, Elaeagnus, Santalacea, Clematis cana, +Senecionoides, Conyza vulgaris, Emblica, Schaenanthus, Phyllanthus ruber, +Q. tomentosa, Desmodium vestilum, Briedleia obovata! Nerium canum, +Euphorbia antiquorum, Jasminum of Benka, Ligustrum conaria, Mesp. +microphyllus (are these two species confounded by me, as the +larger-leaved one never descends so low?), Lerissoides, Osbeckia +linearis, Euphorbia, Gordonia, Gymnobotrys. Red-legged crow; in descent +altitude 5,800 feet, the most common plant is a species of Berberis very +nearly allied to B. asiatica. Rain in the afternoon. + +_March 29th_.--Mimulus, Acorus Calamus, Quercus robur, Rhododendron +minus, P. longifolia, Gymnobotrys, Campanula linearifolia, Rosa +tetrapetala, Gordonia, Salix, Verbena officinalis, majus, rugus, Lemna, +Gentiana, Hypericum japonica, Indigofera cana, Schaenanthus, Senecio, +Buddlea of Nulka, Pyrus, wheat, Ervum, Vicia, Potentilla, Q. tomentosa, +Cypressus, Ficus, Berberis, Phyllanthus ruber. + +Blackbird, sparrow-hawk, and Hoopoe about houses; it has a curious hoop, +varied with a grating chirp. + +The blackbird frequents houses here; its voice is very discordant and +singular, sparrow-hawks were seen to pursue wounded pigeons. Houses few, +built of unbaked and large bricks or rather cakes of mud. The village of +Wandipore is visible to the south-west, about one and a half mile. Snow +on ridges to west, all which are lofty. The country around Wandipore is +tolerably populous, though not so much so as about Santagoung. + +We were compelled to halt at Phain or Thain, until the 1st instant, owing +to the admirable management of the Bhooteas. It appeared at first as if +the Zoompoor or Governor of Wandipore was determined that we should not +be gainers in time by not going through his castle, but subsequently it +turned out that the Deb had, with infinite consideration, wished us to +remain in order to rest ourselves after our long journey. This may have +been merely said to shelter the Wandipore man, who had the impudence to +send one evening to us saying, that the Deb and Durmah were coming to +Wandipore next morning, and that we were to meet them there, and return +the same evening to Punukha. This turned out untrue. Pemberton was at +last compelled to write to the Deb, and the consequence was the +arrangement for our advance next morning. + +_April 1st_.--The march to Punukha extended over a most barren dried-up +country, the features presented were the same as those about Phain. We +proceeded at first in the direction of Wandipore, then diverged, +proceeding downwards in the direction of the villages. The remainder of +our journey extended either just above the base of the hills, or along +the valley: the distance was nine miles. The march was an uninteresting +one; the only pretty part being the river that drains the valley, and it +is one of considerable size, fordable in but few places; the rapids are +frequent, but the intermediate parts flow gently. We were all dreadfully +disappointed in the capital, the castle even is by no means so imposing +as that of Tongsa or Byagur; the city miserable, consisting of a few mean +houses, and about as many ruined ones. + +The surrounding cultivation is chiefly poor wheat; the hills the most +barren conceivable. On arriving near the palace we made a detour, to +avoid exposure to the usual regal insolence: our plan was effectual. From +some distance I had espied our quarters, and although our mission is one +sent by the most powerful eastern government, yet we had allotted to us a +residence fit only for hogs. + +It consisted of a court-yard, surrounded by walls, and what had evidently +been stabling; the apartments were numerous, but excessively small, the +roof of single mats. The place swarmed with vermin. In this we +determined not to stay, and so proceeded to the city, (for sure there +cannot be a capital without a city,) and there, after some delay, +procured two houses, in one of which the present Tongso Pillo had lodged +before his present exaltation. But imagine not that it was a palace. The +two houses together furnished three habitable rooms. + +I imagine not that the houses were procured for us by the local +government. We only obtained them by Pemberton's liberality was well +known. The Sepoys' lines were transported hither not by Bhooteas but by +our own people. In addition the people are in many cases insolent, and +it was only after a peremptory message to the Deb, stating what the +consequences would be of such a system of annoyance, that we got any +assistance. + +_April 3rd_.--We have heard nothing of the Mutaguat. It appears that +the country is unsettled now. The old Deb having possession of +Tassisudon, and the people here declaring they will stop all supplies if +the Deb does not, according to custom, repair at the usual period to +Tassisudon. A Deewan here, who has held office under four Rajahs, says, +that the present truce is owing to the hot weather; Bhooteas only admire +fighting in the cold season, in conformation of which, he says that in +the cold season the contest will be renewed. There will then be an +additional bone of contention for the present. Nor should I much wonder +if the Paro Pillo then comes forward and takes the Debship and all away. +The Deewan's account of the past fighting, places the Bhooteas in a most +contemptible light: it appears that when they fire a gun, they take no +aim, their only aim being to place their bodies as far as possible from +the weapon; the deadly discharge is followed up by the deadlier discharge +of a stone. At plunder they are more adroit. + +The following plants may be found about this place; Ligustrum, Salex +pendula, Valeriana orolifolia, Campanula linearis, senecionideae, Viola, +Jasminum, Rosea, Conaria, mangoe one tree in the gardens, Citrus two or +three species in ditto, Jubrung, Diospyros, Acorus, Veronica, Ranunculus, +Sclerossophalos, Alopecercus, Agrostides, Bombax, stunted weeping +cypress, Pinus longifolia, Punica, Dipsacus, Potentilla, Potamogeton 2, +Hypericum japonica, Lysimachia, Chenopod, Ajuga, Anisomales. + +Birds--great kingfisher, diver snappet, white-pated rumped chats, no +ouzels. Part of the gardens extend from the palace up the river to the +village; the breadth is fifty to seventy yards, the length 200. They are +surrounded by a dilapidated stone fence. Although an Assam malee or +gardener resides in them, they are kept in miserable order: the soil +seems good, the trees flourishing, mangoe, Diospyros, Jubrung, oranges, +citrons, pomegranates, are the principal trees. The south side has a +streamlet running along it outside the fence, for the supply of water. +This streamlet abounds with Acorus Calamus. + +_April 9th_.--Our interview with the Deb took place. We dismounted at +the boards over the streamlets above mentioned, and then proceeded over +the wooden bridge across the Patcheen, which is here a wide and deep +stream: the bridge was partially lined with guards, in different dresses, +few in uniform; it was besides armed with shoulder wall-pieces, capital +things for demolishing friends. We then crossed a sort of court-yard and +then ascended a steep and extraordinarily bad flight of steps to the door +of the palace. Here we found the household troops all dressed in scarlet +with two door-keepers, one seated on either side of the door: this led us +into a quadrangle. The citadel being in front, the side walls were +rather low, although viewed externally they appear of good height, but +the ground of the interior is much raised. We crossed this diagonally, +passed into the opposite quadrangle on the west side, and thence ascended +into a gallery, hung with arms, and filled with followers, from this we +passed after a little delay into the Rajah's room. + +This was handsomely decorated with scarfs, the pillars were variously +ornamented. The Rajah was seated on an elevated place in the corner, and +appeared a good-looking well-bred man. He received the Governor +General's letter from P. with much respect, getting up from his chair: +the visit was a short one, and entirely of ceremony. The presents were +deposited on a raised bench in his front. Communications were kept up by +the Deewan and the Zimpay, formerly Joongar Zoompoor or Governor. On +retiring we were presented with fruits, oranges, walnuts, horrid +plantains, ghee, eggs and rice. + +The whole business went off very well, no attempt at insolence. The +concourse of people was greater than I expected. Swarms of Gylongs, the +more curious of whom received whacks from leathern straps, wielded by +some magisterial brother. + +_April 10th_.--Yesterday we saw the Dhurma, to whom we had to ascend by +several flight of steps, which are most break-neck things, the steps +overlapping in front, and being often lined with iron on the part most +subject to be worn. We found him in the south room of the upper story of +the citadel. We waived our right to sitting in his presence as the +question was put to us with respect and delicacy. The Rajah is a good +looking boy, of eight or ten years old: he was seated in the centre, but +in an obscure part of the room, and was not surrounded by many immediate +attendants. The balcony was filled with scribes with handsome black, +gilt, lettered books before them. Two other scribes were likewise +engaged on our right, noting down what passed, but they seemed to be very +bad writers. The visit went off well. The room was tastily, but not so +profusely ornamented with scarfs as was the Deb's. + +On returning we found the household guard drawn up in front to prevent +our passing out without paying a fee. This matter was soon settled +forcibly, and the durwan, or door-keeper, lost by his impudence the +present he would otherwise have had from P., besides being in a great +fright lest the affair should be reported to the Rajah. + +_April 11th_.--The rains appear to have set in: the sky is constantly +overcast, and showers are by no means unfrequent. One of our dawks +arrived opened: this no doubt took place in the palace, although the Deb +strenuously denies it. Messengers are to be sent to Tassgoung, where the +accident is said to have happened. The cause of its having been opened, +is no doubt the report that there was a letter in it from the old Deb. + +_April 14th_.--A violent squall unaccompanied by rain, came on +yesterday from the west: roofs were flying about in every direction, and +many accidents occurred from the falling of the stones by which they were +secured. Part of the palace was unroofed. The storm has stopped all our +amusements, particularly as the Gylongs attribute it to our firing. The +Kacharies, our servants, were likewise requested not to play any more on +the esplanade. This is just as it has been in every other place in +Bootan, nothing is said against amusement until the presents have been +received, and then we are requested to do nothing, and the authorities +become disobliging! + +The potters fashion their earthenware entirely with their hands, the +upper half is finished on a flat board; the lower being added afterwards; +the finishing is done chiefly by a wet rag, the operator revolving around +the pot. The vessels chiefly used for carrying water are oval, these are +covered with black glaze. + +Some Didymocarpi very fragrant, one near Chindupjee most grateful, +resembling quince and sandal wood; the odour is permanent, and appears to +reside in the young leaves before their expansion: Iris, Hypericum, +Viola, Ligust., Ranunculus, Verbasena, Gymnostomum, Serratula arenaria, +Veronica. + + + +CHAPTER XIII. + + +_Return of the Mission from Bootan_. + +_May 9th_, _1838_.--We left Punukha at twelve, having been delayed +throughout the morning, on account of coolies. We crossed the palace +precints, and the two bridges unmolested. Our road lay in the direction +of our entering Punukha for some time, but on the opposite bank of the +river. We gradually descended throughout this portion. Then at about +eight miles turning round a ridge, we followed a ravine to the west, some +distance above its base, gradually descending to the watercourse draining +it. Thence we ascended in a very circuitous route to Talagoung, the +castle of which is in a ruinous state: it is visible from the place +whence one turns to the westward. + +Up to this point, which was certainly 1,200 feet above Punukha, no change +occurred in the vegetation. The country remained barren, the ravines in +favourable places being clothed with underwood, and as we increased our +elevation, with trees. Noticed a Bupleurum, Viburnum sp., Ficus obliqua. + +At 3,500 feet, Sambucus, Bupleurum sp., Potentilla as before, Gentiana +pinnata, Serissoides, Campanula. + +At 3,800 to 4,000 feet, Pinus longifolia more common though still a +stunted tree; Emblica, Paederia cyaneum, Q. tomentosa, Primula Stuartii, +Parochetus, Pogonantherum, this is a most common grass about here, it +becomes more stunted as we proceed lower, and its extreme elevation does +not exceed 6,000 feet, Acorus very common, Adhatoda! + +At 4,000 feet, Simool, Dipsacus as before, Aspidium, Macrodon, +Rhododendron minus re-appears. + +On rounding the ridge, although we did not increase our elevation, the +country became more wooded. In some places Q. robur, Gordonia, Pyrus +were common, others and the greater portion were composed of Pinus +longifolia, Bucklandia re-appears at 4,500 feet, Azalea, Saccharum +aristatum, Hedera, Didymocarpus contortus, on rocks. + +Towards the nullah we passed a village with some wheat and buckwheat +cultivation; Plantago, Ranunculus, Thymus, were interspersed. Along the +watercourse Symplocos styracifolius, which becomes a middling-sized tree, +was seen, and Stellaria cana, petalis albis profunda partitus, as well as +S. media. + +Our section was as follows: + +[Section Page 285: m285.jpg] + +_Telagoung_ is a middling-sized, dilapidated castle, in which it is +settled the first blood is to be shed in the forthcoming contest, it is +occupied by the old Deb's men. Up to its walls, thickets abound, and the +fragrant rose was very conspicuous. + +Its elevation is about 5,600 feet, yet a Ficus may be seen planted by the +side of Cupressus pendula, and Punica thrives. The change in temperature +was very great. Birds abounded throughout; a new sombre-coloured dove +was shot by P.: the most common birds were the orange-billed shrike of +towards Tumashoo. + +_May 10th_.--We left Telagoung at 7 A.M. and descended instantly to a +small nullah, from which we re-ascended. The ascent continued without +intermission, occasionally gradually, but generally rather steep for +three or four hours. The descent occupied about as long, and about three- +fifths the distance, following nearly throughout a small nullah. +Woollakkoo, our halting place, is a good-sized village, and fourteen and +a half miles from Telagoung. + +To the nullah I observed Stellaria cana, Berberis asiatica, which has re- +appeared, Erythrina, Rubus deltoid, which is very common all over these +parts and whose fruit is palatable, Uvularia, Swertia plantaginifolia, +Caesalpinia, Mimulus, and Urtica foliis apice erosis. + +The ascent commenced through woods of Q. robur, the shrubs consisting of +Gaultheria fragrans and arborea, a Myrsinea, Thibaudia serrata, whose +inferior limit is here, Rhododendron minus, but not very common. A good +deal of wheat cultivation and of better quality occurred at 6,500 feet, +assuming Telagoung as 5,600 feet, Pteris aquilina common throughout and +up to 10,000 feet. + +At 8,000 feet, Taxus re-appears, with Baptisia in flower, Thibaudia +orbicularis, Luzula of Chindupjee, Smilax gaultherifolia, Thibaudia +obovata, Fragaria vesca, which continues throughout, and has a range of +between 3 to 10,000 feet, Bambusa microphylla, and Acer sterculiacea +appear, woods of Q. ilecifolia, up to 7,200 feet, chiefly of Q. robur, +Gaultheriae two common ones, occur commonly. + +At 8,500 feet, the woods composed chiefly of Q. castaneoides and glaucum, +Q. ilecifolia less common. No Q. robur, path-like glades and rather +open, Pythonium ecaudata, up to 9,000 feet, Primula pulcherrima very +common. + +At 8,500 feet, Saxifraga of Khegumpa and of Chindupjee, Mitella,! Luzula, +Carex, Viola reniformis, Lomaria of Khegumpa, Hedera, Ilex, Mercurialis, +grey lichens. + +Taxus, Quercus, Rhododendron, another species foliis subtus ferrugineo- +argenteis floribus rosaceis. + +Smilacina, Ophiopogon, Urtica carnosa decumbens, Limonia laureola, +Pythonium ecaudatum. + +At the same elevation and indeed below us, but on other ridges, cedars +were seen in abundance: Hydrangea and Hydrangeacea calyptrata, Epilobium +sp. withered. + +At 7,800 feet, Aristolochia novum genus, Tritium glaucum, Thlaspi, Arabis +cordata, Loranthus, Symplocos sessiliflora. + +At 7,900 feet, Lardizabalea. + +At 8,000 feet, Hamiltonia? + +At 9,000 feet, Crucifera floribus amplis albis, on mossy banks, with +Mitella, Spiraea densa. + +Acer sterculiacea in forests, Cerasi sp. common. + +Betula, Ribes, Arenaria, Lilium giganteum, Laurinea, Chimaphila, Acer. + +At 9,300 feet, Rhododendron hispida and rosaceum, Taxus, Pythonium +filiformia, Trillium album, Salvia of Royle, Rhododendron ferrugineo and +obovata, Smilacinia densiflora, Sarcococea, Daphne cannabinum, here in +flower, Anemone, Prunella, Hemiphragma, Cedar, but rare. + +At 9,700 feet, Primula Stuartii in flower lower down, but here quite +past, Corydalis linetta, Viola, Juniperus, Viburnum floribus magnis +albis, Rhododendron deflexa, in flower. Acer: 1, vel. 2, Cerasi sp. +altera, Paris polyphylla, and from 7,000 feet, Iris foliis angustis, +Cerasus apetalus gathered below here a shrub, very common, Osmundia alia, +Berberis ilecifolia and integrifolia, Rosa microphylla, Spinis latis, +Baptisia, Corydalis altior floribus luteis, Aconiti sp., Papaveracea +succo aqueo, ferrugineo hispida, capsula siliquosa, 3-valvis, replis +totidem, stigmata radiata, 5-lobo. Prunella, Betula, Ranunculus minimus, +Carex, Mimulus! Sambucus of below, Salvia of Royle, Polytrichum +rubescens. + +From the ridge the view to the south is pretty, the country undulated, +either naked and swardy, or clothed with firs. + +Abies spinulosa commences: and is soon succeeded by Pinus pendula, which, +as we proceeded lower, soon became the chief tree; Rhododendron obovata +finely in flower, Lilium giganteum common. Trillium stratum, Ribes +lacineat. + +Q. ilecifolia re-appears 500 or 600 feet below the ridge, Pinus spinulosa +common, with a Salix, grey pendulous lichens. + +At 6,000 feet, P. pendula, Mespilus microphyllus, Larix, Rumex, which has +occurred throughout, Salvia alia viscosa foliis subhastatis trilobis, +Cycnia, Astragaloides! bracteis subvaginant magnis, Rosa latispina +becomes very common. + +At 8,800 feet, Hedera, Hamiltonia re-appears, Galium sp., Juncus, Oxlip, +Clematis, Salix, very common. + +At 8,500 feet, a village is seen to the right; Q. ilecifolia is the chief +tree, with P. pendula, Azalea, Baptisia, Pomacea of Rydang, Rhododendron +arbor. minus. Red-legged crow, pine chatterers. + +At 8,000 feet, Baptisia continues; all alpine vegetation ceased; +Rhododendron minus continues, Q. ilecifolia, but no Corydalis, Anemone, +Iris, etc. although Oxlip does; Salix continues. + +The descent to the halting place is marked by return to the old +vegetation indicated by re-appearance of Elaeagnus fragrans and Rosa +tetrapetala, Valeriana violifolia. + +Baptisia rotundifolia and oblonga, this last a tree very common, Pinus +pendula chief tree, Pomacea celastufolia, Elaeagnus fragrans, Rosa +tetrapetala, very common along the nullah, Baptisia continues low down, +as Oxlip, Stauntonia alba, Viburnum, _Asteroides_, Jasminum luteum, +Tussilago, Spiraea bella, found about the level of this. + +All the monocotyledons have a defined elevation; Smilacina cordifolia is +the lowest, except Uvularia, Lilacineae and Trillium, are the highest, +not being found much under 10,000 feet. There is an Osmundia likewise on +the ridge, the fronds below are not contracted, it is +ferrugineo-tomentosa. Hemiphragma has a wide range, between 6 and 10,000 +feet: Salvia nubigena of Royle, confined to 10,000 feet, Aconitum, +Corydalis lutea, lenella and caerulea, Prunus penduliflora, Papaveracea, +Juniperus, Rhododendron obovata, Silacinea, Cerasus apetala, Ribes 2, are +sure signs of elevation. + +If the Mimulus be the same as that from Punukha, it has a very wide +range, as also Lilium giganteum, Pythonium filiformeis, limited, as well +as ecaudata, Crucifera, Anemone, Laurinea, Polytrichium, were all +definite. Mitella ranges between 9 and 9,500 feet, it is strange that +the chief variety in vegetation occurred on the Telagoung side, on which +springs are rare. No Thibaudias occurred on the other side, Euphorbia +was confined to the Woollakkoo side, as also Primula, etc. etc. The +chief cultivation about Woollakkoo is of wheat, but from the mode of +cultivation the plant is evidently adapted for irrigation; rice is also +cultivated. This is perhaps its maximum height. The hills around are +covered here and there with snow, and must therefore be above 10,000 feet +high. The highest were to the north-west. + +The river is of moderate size, fordable in most places, but still well +supplied with wooden bridges. Fish, in shoals too, were seen here and +there. + +_May 11th_.--Our march continued down this river throughout: we left +its banks once or twice owing to ascending some hundred feet above its +bed, occasionally it spread out, but generally was confined between the +rocks. Its banks in some places were planted with weeping willows. The +vegetation throughout was much the same. The most common plants were +Rosa, this literally abounds, Pinus pendula, Viburnum grandiflora, a +Symphoria! Crataegus 2 species, Mespilus microphyllus, Lantonea, Jasminum +luteum, Berberis asiatica and obovata, Plectranthus canus, Elaeagnus +fragrans, Stellaria cana, Colquhounia, _Indigofera_ sp. altera, Baptisia +did not re-appear, Euphorbia continues, as does the Celastrus noticed +yesterday, which commences at 8,500 feet. + +Cycnia re-appears, it is in fruit, the cotyledons are not conduplicate. +In the fields Stachys, Potentilla (common), Brumus, Lamium of Khegumpa, +Cynoglossum, Thlaspi, Datura in waste places, Conaria, rare, Imperata! +Scabiosa of Bulphai. + +A low shrub abounded on the road sides and walls, having all the +characters of Plumbago, a Lantonea likewise abounded, Fragaria, Swertia, +Taraxacum, Cardamina lilacina, Herminu sp., Marchantia, Astragalus, +Ranunculus; Carex, Potentilla supina, Potamogeton, Clematis grata, +Poplars were seen; of these, Taraxacum very common. Quercus robur re- +appears towards Lamnoo, as well as Juglans and Populus. + +Weeping cypresses about villages, Hordeum hexastichum is commonly +cultivated, A. Buddlaea floribus lilacinis noticed yesterday was found, +its range is 8,500 to 7,500 feet, Zanthoxyla here. + +A cuckoo was shot; this bird would seem to be as in Europe attended by +the Yunx, at least a cry very similar to that of that bird was heard. +Lysimachia of Punukha, Campanula re-appears. + +The most common bird is Lanuis. The sombre-coloured dove too is rather +common. The wheat cultivated here is poor, a good deal of the Bromus +occurs with it. Astragalus is common on the borders of the fields, and +in some of them Ervum, Lamium and Vicia. + +The whole upper surface of the column of Aristolochia of Telagoung, is +viscid and stigmatic, and likewise the margins of the depressions in +which the anthers are lodged, it is certainly akin to Rafflesiaceae. + +_May 12th_.--Proceeded to Chupcha, our march to, and indeed beyond +Panga, seven miles from Lamnoo, was through exactly similar country. The +hills naked or clothed with firs, the path lay along the river Teemboo +chiefly, but occasionally we met with one or two stiff ascents. On +reaching Panga it was determined to push on to Chupcha, which was said to +be but a short way off; we started, and descended after some time to the +river, above which Panga is elevated about 1,000 feet. We continued +along the river until we commenced to ascend towards Chupcha, this ascent +was very long and rather steep, the road tolerably good. We found +Chupcha to be ten miles from Panga, and 8,000 feet high, the greatest +height we crossed being 8,600 feet, and this day we were told, that all +our climbings had ceased. The road was generally bad, and well furnished +with rocks: in one place we passed from 100 yards along the perpendicular +face of a cliff, the Teemboo roaring underneath, the road was built up +with slippery slabs of stone. The country was generally very pretty, the +scenery along the river being very picturesque. We passed a waterfall of +considerable size, which is Turner's Minzapeeza. After leaving Panga we +came on an uninhabited country, nor did we see more than one village, +until we reached the ridge immediately above Chupcha, 1,000 feet above +this, there is a very large village inhabited by Gylongs, the bare summit +of the hill rising an equal height above it; snow visible to the south. +The greatest distance we descended was 6,500 feet, the greatest height +8,500 feet. The distance seventeen miles, the longest march we have yet +had. + +The vegetation was nearly the same up to the time we turned off towards +Chupcha, it was characterized by a profusion of Rosa, among which the +Crataega, Symphorema, (which is less common than towards Woollakkoo,) +Rhamnus, Viburnum grandiflorum, Pinus pendula, Thymus, Cycnium. + +In grassy banks of fields between Panga and Lamnoo, Astragalus, Ervum, +Vicia, Aster major, Rumex, Agrostia, in fields Hieraciae sp., Caricia +sp., Lactuca, Bromus. + +Salix pendula about villages. After leaving Panga we came on to a place +called Minzapeeza, here Adiantum, Aspidium? Hamamelidea, Cedrela? Rhus, +Galium, Tussilago, Saxifraga ligularis, Valeriana violifolia, Smilax +flexuosa, Aruncus, Sarcococea, Azalea. + +Rhododendron minus recommenced after leaving the river towards Panga, a +straggling cedar or two occurred, Populus rotundifol. very common, +Gaultheria arborea. + +About Panga, Lithospermum, Oxalis corniculata, Umbellifera, from the +flowers of which _moud_ is made, Rubus, Arabis, Taxacum, Dipsacus. + +Beyond the waterfall the Quercus robur became common, forming beautiful +woods, it continued throughout until we re-descended to the river, range +7 to 7,500 feet. In these woods formed likewise by Pinus pendula, +Convallaria cirrhosa appeared, Rubia cordifolia, hispida, Paris +polyphylla, Aralia cissifolia, Mitella, Ribes! Spiraea, Asparagus, +Epipactis, Avularia, Houttuynia! Arum viviparum on rocks, Duchesmium, +Populus oblonga occurred also, Coriaria! Hedera common, Benthamia common. + +On rocks along the river, Peperomia, 4-phylla, Populus oblonga, Acer +sterculiacea! Symphoria alia! Indigofera, Salix, Cedrela, Sassafras, +arbor facie, Gordonia, Vitis, Syringa, Serissa, Buddlaea, Sedum on rocks, +Eriophon ditto, Campanula cana, Pinus pendula, Rosa, Convallarium +cirrhosa, Polygonum robustum, foliis cordatis. + +The ascent up to 7,500 feet, was marked by similar vegetation: up to this +point the prevailing shrubs gradually disappeared, they were never so +common as about Panga. Quercus robur having ceased, was succeeded by +Quercus ferruginea, which is much like Quercus ilecifolia, and has very +coriaceous leaves, this again at 7,500 feet, was succeeded by Quercus +ilecifolia, Dipsacus up to this, Pteris aquilina, Gaultheria arborea. + +At 7,600 feet, Rhododendron oblonga, a most beautiful species, Calyce +discoideo commenced, as also Rhodora deflexa and Rhodoracea ochrolenea, +which is, I think, that I before noticed as R. elliptica, foliis basi +cordatis subtus argenteis et punctatis, Euphorbia occurs also here, as +also the Rosa, Berberis asiatica. + +At 8,000 feet, the trees were covered with grey lichens, and assumed the +usual highly picturesque appearance: noticed Primula Stuartii in flower +(Symphoria! ceased), Euphorbia, Gaultheria nummularifolia commences, +Artemisia major, Crataegus odoratus continues, Saxifraga ligularis common +up to this, Ribes commences, Gaultheria of Bulphai, Galum, Hyperici sp., +Lilium giganteum, Clematis grata, Populus species, do not ascend above +this. + +At 8,500 feet, Rhododendron minus, Rhododendron oblonga, ochroleucum, +Coccineum appears, Ribes, Smilax sanguinea, Gaultheria of Bulphai very +common, arborea stunted, Limonia major, Clematis grata! Rhododendron +hispida, Potentilla, Pteris aquilina, Berberis asiatica, Mespilus +microphyllus, Gnaphalium, Swertia, Viola, Patrinum! Elaeagnus fragrans! +Thymus, which ranges from 6 to 10,000 feet, Euphorbia, Pedicularis, +Cycnii sp., Mimulus, Rhodora deflexa, Pinus pendula, Quercus ilecifolia, +both stunted, Pteris aquilina. + +The descent to the village was about 500 feet, Arenarium on rocks, +Mimulus, Viola, Rumex, Juncus, Acorus veronica, Anagallis, Pythonium of +Blake, Euphorbia, Pedicularis, Carex, Mespilus microphyllus: pine +chatterers throughout, at least above 7,000 feet. + +The summit, which was certainly 9,500 feet, was completely bare: Pinus +pendula ascends a long way. + +Chupcha--Hordeum hexastichor in beautiful order, the chief cultivation. +Red-legged crow; larger dove. The form of the country traversed is as +follows:- + +[Teemboo to Chupcha: m291.jpg] + +At Diglea we had an opportunity of seeing the mode of building in this +part of Bootan; the houses are made of mud, which is trampled and beat +down by men, who perform sundry strange evolutions while so employed; the +mud is beat down in a frame-work; it is from the different layers formed +that the lines seen outside finished houses result. The mode is slow, +but must give great firmness. + +_May 14th_.--Ascended to the Gylong village, above Chupcha, and then to +the naked ridge. The village may be estimated as being 8,700 or 8,800 +feet above the sea, and that part of the ridge to which I ascended as +9,800 or 10,000 feet. The ascent is uninterrupted up to the village; it +winds through a fine fir wood, after diverging from the road to Panga, +after that it is quite open, scarcely a shrub being met with until the +ridge is surmounted. On turning to its northern face, woody vegetation +becomes pretty abundant, and 500 feet below, woods occur. This is +contrary to what usually happens; the south faces of mountains being +supposed to be better wooded than the others, but in Bootan the +difference would seem to be due to the piercing winds blowing from south, +or up the ravine of the Teemboo. The scenery was very pretty, both in +the woods before reaching the village, and from the ridge: vast +quantities of snow visible to the north and north-east. I ascended to +within 1,000 feet of snow, and I think that at this season, an elevation +of 11,000 feet is required _in open places_ to secure the presence of +snow: it is obvious that local circumstances, such as shelter, etc. may +cause it to descend nearly to 9,000 feet, and it is as obvious that snow +will descend lower down a mountain of 15,000 feet high than one of +12,000; the difference in the beds of snow causing a greater reduction of +temperature in the one than in the other. In an isolated mountain, an +elevation of 11,000 feet will be required for the presence of snow in +May. + +At 8,000 feet, Baptisia, Viburnum canum, Umbellifera toxicaria, +Colquhounia, Deutzia, the Symphoria of Teemboo. + +At 8,200 feet, Salix, Abies spinulosa straggling, Rhododendron +microphylla commences, the bruised has a terebenthaceous odour, Ilex, +Gaultheria flexuosa, Parus major: variegated shortwing, Papilio +machaonires. + +At 8,300 feet, Saxifraga ligularis. + +At 8,400 to 8,500 feet, Limonia, Viburnum grandiflorum or canum, Berberis +asiatica, Mespilus microphyllus, Populus oblonga, Rhododendron ochrolena, +Clematis grata viola lutea,* Epipactis, Hemiphragma. + +At 8,700 feet, Rhododendron microphyllum very common, Ribes, Bupleuri +sp.,* Rosa fructibus hispidis,* Rubia hispida, Sambucus, Berberis +integrifolia, an vero distincta. + +At 8,800 feet, Viola pusilla, Fragaria vesca and lutea, Baptisia, Rosa, +Sphaerostemma, Clematis grata, Pinus pendula, etc. + +At 9,000 feet, commencement of sward, no trees, except stunted shrubs of +Pinus pendula, Mespilus microphyllus, Baptisia, Gnaphalium Pedicularis,* +Rosa, Bistorta,* leaves with margins not united to the margins of +pitchers of Nepenthes and Cephalotus, Pteris aquilina, Prunella, +Rhododendron microphyllum, Euphorbia, Taxaxacum, Potentilla, Thymus, +Primula Stuartii. + +At 9,100 feet, Hyperica brachiata of Moflong. + +At 9,300 feet, Morina Wallichiana, Osmundioid, Dipsacus, Scabiosa? +capitulo nutanta, Verbascum, Juncus, Epilobia sp. + +At 9,400 feet, Salix shrubby, Cyperus fuscescens of Tassangsee, dwarfed +Larix. + +At 9,500 feet, Anemona aurea commences, covering in some places the +sward; it straggles down in favourable places with Iris angustifolia, to +9,300 feet, Primula Stuartii, Rhododendron microphyllum, Gnaphalia, +Euphrasia. + +At 9,800 feet, southern face of ridge bare, northern thickety, consisting +of Rhododendron fruticosum, foliis ellipticis basi cordatis punctato +lepidotis, Salix, Berberis, Pyrus aria, Bambusa, Tetranthera. + +In wet sheltered spots, Iris angustifolia, Aconitum, foliis aconitoideum, +on the sward Euphorbia radians. Below this a little, woods commence +chiefly of Bogh Pata, Cerasus, Salix, Rosa fructibus hispidis, Acers, +Abelia? Viburnum niveum, Hydrangea arbuscula, non-scandens, Berberis +integrifolia. The woods are open, the open spaces occupied by remains of +last summer's vegetation, as Compositae, Umbelliferae, Aquilegium, a +plant five or six feet high, folii aconitoidie, etc. Epilobium. + +Among these in the woods, Trillia sp., Saxifraga reniformis, Liliacea +Brodidoid, Viola, Primula purpurea, a lovely species, Aconiti sp., +Papaveracea hirsuta foliis, Aconitoid very common, Orchideae, Ribes +sanguina, Composita penduliflora, Arenaria pusilla of above Telagoung, +Polygoni sp., pusilla repens hirsuit foliis cordata ovatis, vel +reniformibus subtus purpurescent, Salvia nubicola? Euphorbia coccinea. + +Abies densa appears, as also close to the Gylong village, from this +elevation upwards, it is common. + +Abies spinulosa common on north face at 9,000 feet, Abies pendula ascends +on south side as high as 9,300 feet, but is stunted beyond 9,000 feet, it +does not exist on north face. + +Primula Stuartii throughout, very abundant. + +The plants most limited were Papaveracea, Aconitum folium aconitoideum, +Saxif. reniformis, Primula purpuria, Euphorbia radians, Rhododendron +cereum, mentioned above, and another at 9,800 feet with similar leaves, +but normal flowers, Abelia, Cerasus, Trillii sp., Anemona, Iris, +Bistorta, Ribes, A. densa. + +The most dispersed are Euphorbia coccinea, Salix, Bogh Pata, Mespilus +microphyllus, Cyperus fuscus, Primula Stuartii, Rhododendron +microphyllum. + +Hordeum hexastichum gives fine produce here; nothing can exceed it in +appearance, oats also occur mixed with it, but is not sown, at least, it +occurs rarely on walls, Arabis, Magus stolonifer, Juglans in villages, +(Ribes Juniperus in the Gylong village), Acorus, Carex, Stellaria cana, +Media, Caltha, and Thlaspi. + +The temperature is delightful, thermometer 46 degrees at 7 A.M., 52 +degrees in the middle of the day. + +_May 15th_.--Left Chupcha for Chuka, distant seventeen miles. Our +march commenced by a very steep and indeed almost precipitous descent to +the nullah, at the foot of Chupcha, of 1,800 feet. Thence we ascended +gradually until we reached a temple visible from Chupcha, at which place +we returned to the course along the Teemboo. The remainder of the road +undulating, varying in level from 6,000 to 6,500 feet, until we commenced +the descent to Chuka, which was long and tedious: we reached this at 5.5 +P.M. The road latterly was very bad, we passed Punukha, a small village, +about 300 feet below our path. The mountains closing in the Teemboo +continue lofty, at least 9,000 feet. Iris, cedars, and Abies densa, were +common on the loftier parts. + +We passed some beautiful places, indeed the march throughout was pretty. +The vegetation was beautiful, owing to the quantity of water on the road, +a stream occupying each hollow, round many of which we wound. Glades and +pieces of green sward were not uncommon. + +The Lamium of Bulphai is found about Chupcha. On the descent to the +nullah the following plants were found. + +At 7,000 feet, Iris commences, with a species of Lychnis, ground bare and +rocky, Umbellifera cana, Umb., from which _moud_ is prepared, common. + +At 6,800 feet, Quercus ferruginea commences, on rocks here Stemodium +ruderalis, Santonica of Panga, etc., Convallaria cirrhosa. + +At 6,500 feet, Hedera common, Aristolochia tetrarima, Berberis obovata, +Viburnum caerulescens, Filix ferrugineo tomentosa, Pteris dealbata. + +Iris common to 6,500 feet, continues lower down, but scarce. Along the +nullah, which is a middling-sized torrent, Rhus, Cederela toone, Acer +sterculiacea, Hamamelis, Fici sp., scandens, Rhus, Juglandifolia! Populus +oblonga, Sassafras, on the ascent to the temple, Populus of very large +size, and the above trees. Fraxinus floribunda, Osmundia in profusion, +Aristolochia tetrarima, Scabiosa of Bulphai, Prunella, Fragaria vesca, +Duchesnum, Sarcococea, Elaeagnus fragrans, Galium of Panga cascade, +Corydalis, which continues to Chuka, but is scarce below 5,000 feet, +Deutzia, Lilium giganteum, Uvularia very common, Primula Stuartii, +Woodwardia (scarce), Pythonium pallidium, Campanula cana, Panax herbacieae +2 species, Rhododendron agaleoides of ridge above Chupcha, Buddlaea cana, +Ranunculus of Taseeling, Benthamia, Anemona ranunculacea, Buxus, +Delphinum sp.? common, Gaultheria nummularifolia, Jasminum lutium, +Conaria. This ascent was about 500 feet. Long-tailed pie seen here, red- +billed shrikelet, first met with towards Tumashoo, common now as far down +as 4,500 feet. + +On passing the temple, or rather before coming to it, we changed the +vegetation which became of the ordinary _dry_ character. Woods of Q. +ferruginea mixed with Pinus pendula, Benthamia, Pteris aquilina, Viburnum +caerulescens, Conaria, Polygonum of Teemboo, Rhododendron minus, +Gaultheria arborea. + +The remainder of the march consisted of a series of winding round spurs: +at about an average elevation of 6,000 feet found a Pythonium foliis +pedalis, spad. apice filiformo recurvo, vel erecto, spathe viridi, +Didymocarpea odora contuso terebinthaceo, Solanum nigrum, Succulent +urticeae, Scabiosa of Bulphai, Gnaphalium, Polygonum globiferum, Scirpus +eriophorus, Hippocratia angulata, Mitella, in damp spots, Cycnium, but +rare, Sarcococea, Impatiens two species, one at 6,500 feet, with a +creeping plant, foliis ranunculaceis floribus solitariis hypocrateriform +albis. No Buxus or Delphinum was observed, in any other glens than the +first crossed. Alnus became common soon, the pines disappeared, Osmundia +common, Primula rotundifolia, Paris polyphylla, Bletia as of Churra at +Punukha, Sphaeropteris. + +In some places Rhododendron minus common, and with it Quercus ferruginea, +Rubia hirsuta, not uncommon throughout as far as 15,000 feet, +Thalictroides majus, Houttuynia, Betula. + +In glades, Smilax gaultherifolia, in a wood round the marsh a Pomaceous +tree: on the march, Swertia, Peloria, Carex stricta, and of Chupcha, +Spiranthes rubriflora, Berberis pinnata, Saxifraga of Bulphai occur here. + +Still further on, the forest assumed the appearance of those towards +Khegumpa. Q. robur, recommences, cedars straggle down; Pinus pendula, +more common, Arenariae sp., Lomaria of Khegumpa, Hottoneoides +ranunculofolia common, Luzula, Sedi sp., Sambucus common throughout in +shady spots, Radsurae sp., Daphne papyracea, rare, Acer sterculiacea +common, Sabia, Hydrangeacea calyptrata, Hamiltonia, this last common to +4,500 feet. + +On wet rocks Hutchinsia, Arenaria, succulent Urticea. In woods +Cucurbitacea cessifolia, Ajugae sp., Polygonum rheoides. On open spots, +Benthamium in flower, Gaultheria arborea, here of large size, pines cease +without changing the elevation, Q. ferruginea ceased, this is limited to +dry spots. + +The first change indicated by the appearance of Laurineae, and Symplocos +among oaks and chesnuts. The woods continued thick for some time, but on +commencing the descent, which is gradual, especially at first, Q. robur +is common, Gaultheria arborea, Rhododendron minus. + +At 5,500 feet Hottonia, Rubia hirsuta, Hydrangeacea calyptrata, +Phytolacea, also at 6,500 feet, and as low as 4,000 feet, Senecio +scandens, Verbenacea of Dgin appears, Uvularia, Duchesnia, Polygonum +rheoides. + +Umbellifera gigantea, Potentilla supina appear, Pythonium recurvum, Rhus, +Dipsacus of Churra, Alnus, Pomacea macrophylla, Stauntonia angustifolia, +Photinea parviflora, Benthamea disappears, in flower at least, +Didymocarpea, Rhamnus, and also at 5,000 feet, Fragaria vesca, in fruit! +Paris, Curculigo pygmaea appears, Sedum continues and ceases at 4,500 +feet, Ranunculus of Taseeling found also as low as 3,600 feet, Daphne +nutans appears. This found first near Taseeling, found as low as 4,000 +feet, Primula Stuartii, Rhododendron minus, Viburnum caerulescens +continue, Thibaudia myrtifolia, Rubus deltoideus appears. + +At 4,500 feet, a Malvaceae Sidoides, Erythrina, Rosa fragrans, Pythonium +sp. majus, spadicis apice filiformi 2-pedali, Incerta of Taseeling, +Ribesioides, Quercus ferruginoides, Indigofera major, Berberis obovata, +in fruit. + +At 4,400 feet, Cuscuta, Hamiltonia, Hottoneoides, Daphne pendula vel +nutans, Impatiens, Mimosa, Menispermum tropaeolifolia, Celastrinia sp., +Panax crucifolia, Hypericum japonicum. + +At 4,300 feet, Conyza nivea, Q. robur, Indigofera major, of Tassgoung, +etc. Gaultheria arborea, Hedychium appears! Buddlaea of Nulka, Maesa +salicifolia! + +At 4,200 feet, Thibaudia lanceolata appears, ranges between 4,200 and +2,000 feet, Sanicula, Cynoglossum, Zyziphi sp. + +Along the bed of the river, Zizyphus arborea, Urtica, foliis apicae +erosis, Berberis obovata, Erythrina, Artemisia major, Elaeagnus fragrans, +and Stellaria cana, occur, the last ranges between 3 and 6,000 feet, +Thlaspi, Polygonum globifera, Dendrobium pictum, Verbenacea of Dgin, +Clematis, petiolis basi connatis demum induratus majus, Magnolia, Randia +of Punukha, Liriodendron tulipif., Apocynum nerufolium. + +At Chuka, Ficus elastica, but not flourishing, Musa, Salix pendula, +Phytolacea, Buckwheat, Crucifera cordifructus, Sanicula, Stellaria cana, +Thibaudia lanceolata, Cynoglossum, Vandea, Parkioides common. + +The most limited plants are Iris, Silene, Aristolochia tetrarima vix +infra 6,000 feet, Buxus, Delphinioid, Fraxinus non infra 6,000 feet, +Epipactis ditto, Hutchinsia, Lomaria of Khegumpa, Mitella, Carex stricta +of Chupcha, _Petunia_, Smilax gaultherifolia, Osmundia non infra 5,500 +feet, Hydrangeacea ditto, Cucurbitacea cissifolia, found about Suddiya, +etc. + +The most diffused, Hottonia, Q. robur, Gaultheria arborea, 5 to 3,500 +feet, Corydalis. + +The subtropical forms, Mimosa, Impatiens, occurrence of fleshy Urticea, +Ficus elastica, but not flourishing, Musa, Salix pendula, Buckwheat, +Urtica urens, peaches, Stellaria cana, Crucifera cordifructus, Panax +curcifolia, Andropogon arbusculoid, Rubia cordata. + +_May 16th_.--The fort of Chuka not being whitewashed, is not +conspicuous: its situation is strong, and against Bhooteas would be +impregnable. It occupies a low hill arising from the centre of the +valley, one side of which is washed by the Teemboo or Tchien-chiw. The +room we were lodged in was a good one. The village is a mean one, and +consisting of three or four houses. + +We crossed the river by a suspension bridge much inferior to that of +Benka, and then rose gradually and inconsiderably, following the Teemboo. +To this we subsequently descended by a most precipitous road built for +the most part on the face of a huge cliff: we reached the Teemboo at its +junction with a small torrent; the tongue of land here was strewn with +huge rocks, and bore evidences of the power of the torrents, for it +evidently had been once a hill, such as that we had just descended. +Thence we continued ascending, following the river, from which however we +soon diverged to our right, but not far. The road was rugged beyond +description. As we approached Murichom, it improved somewhat, but was +still very bad. We reached this place which is visible for some distance +at 5 P.M.; the march being one of eighteen miles. No villages occurred +en route. The hills were densely wooded to the summits and much lowered +in height than those to which we had been accustomed. Passed two +waterfalls, one less high, but more voluminous than the other, is the +Minzapeeza of Turner; both these occurred on the left bank of the river. +Minzapeeza, is a fall of great height, but the body of water is small. + +The vegetation to-day partook much of the subtropical character, almost +all boreal plants being left behind. We ascended and descended between +3,000 to 4,500 feet near Chuka, Parkioides, Mimosa arborea! and M. +frutex. Magnolia! Rubia munjista, Impatiens! Cucurbitacea! + +Oxyspora latifolia! Rosa fragrans, Incerta ribesioides, Piper! Urtica +heterophylla! Wendlandia! Phytolacea, Daphne nutans, Rottleria! Curculigo +orchediflora, Acer, Eurya pubescens, Rhus, Alnus! Adamia, Gordonia! Q. +robur reappears at a lower elevation than before seen: Dipterocarpioides +arbor vasta trunco ramoso! Smilax auriculata! Pothos pinnatifid! Briedlia +oblonga! Corydalis, Dipsacus, Acanthaceae common, Rubiaceae of a tropical +character, such as Ophiorhizae; Celastrus! Pythonium majus, Tetranthera +macrophylla! Quercus coriacea! Gaultheria arborea scarce, Deutzia on the +descent to the Teemboo, Macrocapnos, Sterculia platanifolia, Melica +latifolia! Arundo! Achyranthes densa! Labiata spinosa of Khegumpa or +Phlomis, Labiata, Quercoides. The rocks on the river side are covered +with Epiphytical Orchideae; Saurauja sterculifolia, Pythonium pallidum, +Elaeagnus fragrans. + +Along the banks of the Teemboo, Pandanus! Rhododendron azaleoides, R. +pulchrum, Lyellia, Begonia picta, Composita arborea! Ficus! on ascent +above its banks, Dioscorea! Elaeocarpus! Acrosticum atratum! Convallarium +oppositifolia, Thibaudia loranthiflora! Pogostemon of Dgin! Leea! The +only northern plant a species of Viola; Otochilus linearis! Entada! +Kydia! Mussaenda! Macrocapnos altera of Yen, Callicarpa arborea! Panax +aculeato palmiformis supra decompositae of Dgin! Solanum farinacium! +Urena lobata! Marlea, Panicum plicatum! Before ascending to Murichom we +made two descents to two streams, crossed by common wooden bridges: that +nearer Murichom being the largest; elevation at 2,500 feet. Here tree- +fern; Pythonium majus, Duchesnia, Lysimacha, Begonia of Punukha! +Caryophyllea scandens, Urtica gigas! Modeceoides exembryonata! Commelina! +Combretum sp.! Baehmeriae! Piper spica caudata pendula and another +species!! Euphorbia! Galina of Panga, Croton malvifolius! Bambusa major! +Bauhinia! Engeldhaardtii! + +Although we subsequently ascended 1500 feet, very little change occurred: +no re-appearance of tropical forms, Sterculiacea novum of Moosmai, +Adamia, Volkameria! serrata, Triumfetta mollis! Briedlia ovalis of +Chilleeri! Gortnera! Corydalis! Hydrangeacae! Melastoma malabathrica! + +The march was very tiresome, some of the ranges passed were high and well +clothed with firs. Those marked thus* are subtropical or tropical, and +one glance will show their predominance: only Corydalis straggles down. +The woods were in many places damp, in others dry: it was obvious that +less rain had fallen between Chupcha and Chuka, than in other situations: +a large proportion of Laurineae and Acanthaceae appeared in the woods, +with Gordonia: the oaks and chesnuts when they did present themselves +bore a tropical form, pointed out by their coriaceous undivided or merely +serrated leaves. I certainly never saw such a predominance of tropical +forms, at such an elevation as 3,500 or 4,000 feet. + +For Lyellia I had been hunting for three years, but never thought of +looking for it at low elevations; as it was I believe given out to be a +native of high places. Of birds, Bucco, Picus intermedius, green pigeon, +azure shrikelet, occurred. + +_May 17th_.--Murichom is a small village of eight or nine thatched +houses, it is well and prettily situated: about it maize and wheat are in +cultivation, Ficus, Hoya, Dendrobium, Croton malvaefolius, Meliacea, +Cedrela Toona, orange, Verbesina, Datura, Artemisia major, Echites, in +fact it would be difficult to point out an elevational plant. The same +remark applies to the march to Gygoogoo, distant twelve miles, and +situated 500 feet below the road, but still it is about the same level as +Murichom. The march commenced with a steep descent, followed by a +steeper ascent, then winding along, in and out, at an average elevation +of 5,000 feet. The road was very bad, rocky and rugged as usual, P. and +B. passed the village, and pushed on to Buxa, a distance of twenty miles, +which place they reached at 7 P.M. At Murichom, Ficus cordata, fructibus +pyriformibus, Clerodendron infortunata, Adamia, Spilanthes, Melastoma +malabathrica, Bignonia, Pentaptera. The Oollook or Simia Hylobates, of +Upper Assam. + +Scarcely any thing worth noticing occurred; the vegetation being +precisely the same. No oaks or chesnuts, at least comparatively few: +Elaeocarpus, Rhus, Gordonia are the most common trees; Pythonium common, +Hoya rotundifolia. Gygoogoo, a small village of two or three houses, was +passed. + +_May 18th_.--Marched to Buxa, ascending from Gygoogoo over a wretched +rocky road, winding in and out. No water was to be had until we reached +a ridge from which to Buxa is one continued descent. This ridge is +between 5 and 6,000 feet, and yet there is scarcely a change in the +vegetation. Pythonium abounded, especially P. majus, which literally +occurred in profusion. The trees towards the top of the ridge were +covered with moss, but all appeared subtropical; a few chesnuts, E. +spinosissima occurred, Bambusa nodosis, verticillatis, and spinosis. + +En route thither, Pholidota imbricata, Thib. loranthiflora, Aralia +terebinthacea, Rottleria foliis peltatis, Ranunculus of Taseeling, +Meniscum majus, Byttneria ferox, Caladium foliis medio discoloratis +saepius atratis, Gnetum, Ixora, Choulmoogra, Phlogacanthi sp., +Corisanthes of Sudya, Acer platanifolia, Croton foliis oblongis +irregularis dentato-lobatis occurred before, between 2,500 to 3,500 feet, +Calamus, wild plantains as before, Gordonia, Rhus, Mimosa, Rottleria, +Wallichia, Sida cuneata, Tradescantia cordata, AEschynanthus fulgens, et +altera, Tupistra, Lobelia baccifera, Costus, tree-fern, as high as 5,000 +feet, Bambusa fasciculata; of birds, the large Bucco. + +At 5,000 feet, Thibaudia serrata, and on this side, as low as 2,500 feet, +myrtifolia, Gordonia, Pythonium majus and medium, cinnamon, Piper, Acer +platanifolia, Mucuna, Angiopteris, Saurauja ferruginea. + +At 5,300 feet, Polygonia pinnatifolia, Hookeria macrophylla, Aralia +scandens, etc. as before. + +On descent nothing remarkable, except steepness: same vegetation. +Pythonium majus not below 3,000 feet, Guttiferae at 3,000 feet, +Acanthaceae, Carduaceus 2,800 feet. + +At 2,500 feet, Buchanania undulata, Hyalostemma undulatum, Roydsia. + +What can be the cause of this tropical elevation at such altitudes? Buxa +is hot enough for any tropical plants, as jacks, mangoes, Cactus, etc. +are found in fine order. It is not attributable to a gradual rise, as +the ascent from this to 5,500 feet, is excessively steep. It must be +owing to local causes modifying the climate: at 5,000 feet on the Dgin +route, there are many elevational plants, indeed more than of +subtropical. + +It must not be forgotten that no Pinus longifolia exists on this route +after leaving Telagoung. + +Buxa is a rather pretty place, but as usual poor: the Doompa's house is +the only decent one in the place, the others, amounting to eight or ten, +are common huts. The big house occupies an elevation in the centre of +the pass, being cut off from the neighbouring hill on either side by a +ravine, one of which is now quite dry, the other affords a scanty supply +of water. The hills are covered with jungle, the only clearing being +about Buxa, and this, except the flat summit of the hill, is overrun with +bushes, Capparis modecea, Croton malvaefolia, Menisperma tropaeolifolia. +Bergerae 2 species, Ixora, Brucea same as of the plains, Atriplex, +Tournefortia of plains, Maesa macrophylla, Mimosa scandens, Ficus +elastica in good order, jacks, mangoes, oranges, plantains, +Tabernamontana, Calamus, Cedrela Toona, are found. + +Black pheasants, Bulbuls, Drongoles, Oorooa, Bucco, green pigeons. Long- +tailed blue-crested shrike, etc. are found here. The Doompa, or Chong +Soobah, is a man of no rank, and the place itself is of no importance, +except as the pass or entrance between the mountains of Bootan and the +plains of Bengal. + +The descent from Buxa is gradual at first and not unpicturesque: after +passing a small chokey about half a mile from Buxa, sandstone of a coarse +nature commences. The descent is very steep, and continues so until +within a short distance of a place called Minagoung, at which the +bullocks are unladen at least of heavy baggage. The remaining descent is +very gradual, and continues so for several miles. The march throughout +and until the level of the plains is reached, was through tree jungle. +The underwood being either scanty or consisting of grass. + +On reaching the plains, the usual Assamese features presented themselves, +viz. vast expanses of grass, intersected here and there with strips of +jungle. Reached Chichacootta about 3 P.M.: distance eighteen miles, of +which about fifteen were over either level or very gradually sloping +ground. No villages occurred, and only one path struck off from the Buxa +one. We passed two or three halting places. + +The vegetation throughout was subtropical. At the same elevation as +Buxa, noticed Cassia lanceolata, Torenia the common Leucas, Bheir, +Solanum quercifolia, Banyan, Alstonia, Styrax, Caryota, Elephantopus, +Osbeckia linearis, Herminioides, Wedelia scandens. + +At 1,500 feet, Celastrus guttiferoid, Malvacea digyna, of which I found +flowers on the path, Koempfera terminal, Antidesma, Anthericum, Echites +arborea, Careya, Mimosa scandens, Pavetta, Rubiacea alia, Lepidostachys, +Lagerstroemia grandiflora, Leea crispa, Costus, Thunbergia grandiflora, +Gordonia, Commelina, Phyllanthus, Briedlia, Dioscorea, Cassia fistula. + +As we approached a lower level, the same plants continued: a Dillenia +very common, Urena lobata, Hedera terebenthacea: the root is in some +cases like figs, Spathodea, Nauclea, Sterculia carnosa, foliis palmatis, +Dalbergia, Panax, Semecarpus, Rhaphis trivialis, Cymbid. alvifolium, +Sarcanthus guttatus common, Apocynea fauce, 10-glandulata, Ixora, etc. + +Saul was not common, nor did I see one tree of any size; it commenced +about the margin of the Toorai. + +Among the grasses forming the underwood of the Toorai and the grassy +masses clothing the plains, Sacchara were the most common and the most +conspicuous: next to these a species of Rottboellia. Sciurus Bengmoria +occurred, Hemarthria, Greweia edulis, Leea crispa, Crinum in the Toorai, +Viburnum of Sudya, Millingtonia pinnata, Volkameria serrata, Labiata +Sudyensis, Mussaenda erecta, humilis, Cinchona, Premna herbacea, Phoenix +pumila. + +Arrived at Chichacootta, a small village, situated in an open grassy +plain, miserably stockaded; and lodged in a good well elevated house. The +following day started and reached Cooch Behar territory, after crossing a +considerable but fordable stream. The contrast between the desolate +territories of Bootan, and the sheet of cultivation presented by Cooch +Behar was striking. + +The same contrast continued until we reached the Company's territories, +and its less cultivated portions along the bed of the Brahmapootra. The +only plant worth notice on the route, was a species of Swertia; the +vegetation being almost precisely the same as in Upper Assam. + +_Rangamutty_, _Bhooruwa_. + +[Meteorological Observations 303: t303.jpg] + +[Meteorological Observations 304: t304.jpg] + +[Meteorological Observations 305: t305.jpg] + +[Meteorological Observations 306: t306.jpg] + +[Meteorological Observations 307: t307.jpg] + +[Meteorological Observations 308: t308.jpg] + +[Meteorological Observations 309: t309.jpg] + +[Meteorological Observations 310: t310.jpg] + +[Meteorological Observations 311: t311.jpg] + +[Meteorological Observations 312: t312.jpg] + + + +CHAPTER XIV. + + +_Journey with the Army of the Indus_. _From Loodianah_ +_to Candahar through the Bolan Pass_. + +I reached Loodianah on the 10th December 1838, after a dawk journey of +fourteen and a half days. After passing the Rajemahal Hills, the country +presents an uniform aspect, but becoming more sandy as one proceeds to +the northward. The hills alluded to, form a low range, the only one of +any height being that called Pursunath. They are well wooded, the under- +vegetation being grassy. Undulating ground bare of trees, but provided +with shrubs, is passed before coming on the wooded tracts, the vegetation +of these present much similarity with that of even 31 degrees N. The +_Dhak_, Pommereulla, Zizzyphus, occurring. The _Mahooa_ occurs in +abundance on the hills, but does not reach much beyond Cawnpore. The +country from the hills upwards, is almost entirely cultivated; very few +trees occurring, and those that do, are almost entirely mango. The +Borassus does not extend in abundance much beyond Benares, but the +_Khujoor_ is found everywhere in sandy soil. + +Loodianah is situated about five miles south of the Sutledge, in the +midst of a sandy country, very bare of trees. The fort and Capt. Wade's +house are situated on a rising ground, at the base of which runs a +nullah, a tributary of the Sutledge. There is much cultivation about the +place, chiefly of grain, barley and wheat, bajerow, cotton, the latter +bad, but there is much land uncultivated. The surface is often flat and +somewhat broken; in such places there is much of a low prickly _Bheir_, +much used for making fences. This and _Dhak_ jungle, which occurs in +strips, form two marked features, the _Dhak_ occurs in patches. The +grasses, which occasionally form patches, are Andropogoneous; +Anathericum, Pommereulla, and Eleusine occur. + +Sugar-cane occurs; it is cultivated in thick masses, it is poor, and +always fenced with the _Bheir_. + +The most common trees are the mango, Parkinsonia, _Babool_, Acacia altera +babooloides, a Leguminous Mimosoid tree, Tamarisk, a middling sized tree +and very pretty, Ficus. + +The hedges about the cantonments, etc. are formed by prickly pear; much +Ricinus occurs in waste places, and it appears to me to be different from +that to the south. + +The most varied vegetation occurs along the nullah, but consists entirely +of aquatic or sub-aquatic plants; among these the most common are two or +three Scirpi, particularly a large rush-like one, a large Sparganium, a +very narrow leaved Typha, Hydrocharis! a pointed leaved Villarsia, +Potomogetons three or four, one only natant; Chara, Naias, Ceratophyllum, +Ulva, Valisneria, Marsilea, Herpestes, Jussieua repens, Fumaria common in +fields. + +The town is a large bustling place: the houses low and regular, and of a +somewhat picturesque style, built of brick, the streets are wide and +regular, having been laid out by our officers. There is a good deal of +trade, and the place is filled with Cashmereans, who may be seen working +their peculiar shawls, and producing very beautiful dyes. + +_January 22nd and 23rd_.--Violent south-east winds during the day; +abating at night. + +_February 4th_.--Arrived at Hurreekee, having halted on the previous +day at Mokhoo, a small village, with the usual style of mud fort. The +marches were as follows: from Loodianah to Ghosepoora is eight miles; to +Boondree, eight miles; Tiraia, ten miles; to Durrumkote, ten miles; to +Futtygurh, ten miles; to Hurreekee, ten miles. Thus Hurreekee is at +least eighteen miles from Durrumkote, although we had been told it was +only five. The country near Loodianah, and, perhaps as far as +Durrumkote, is occasionally very sandy, but beyond that it is easily +traversed by hackeries. Being much less cultivated and overrun with +grasses, among which Andropogons are the most numerous and conspicuous, +these grasses are either coarse and stout or wiry and fine, should afford +excellent cover for game, which however, does not seem to be very +abundant. Very few trees are visible in any direction, and although +neither very much cultivation nor many villages are visible, it would +appear from charts that the country is very populous. The most +interesting plant was a species of Fagonia. + +Durrumkote is the largest of the villages we passed, and has a +respectable looking mud and brick fort. Inside the village is filthy; +the houses wretchedly small, and the streets very narrow. It is much the +same sort of village as other Seikh ones. In the bazars cocoanuts were +noticed. All the Seikhs eat opium, and very often in a particular way by +infusing the poppy-heads, from which the seeds have been extracted by a +hole in the side; great numbers of these are found in the bazars. + +Hurreekee is on Runjeet's side. I crossed the Sutledge, which is between +400 to 500 yards broad with a sufficiently rapid stream, by a bridge of +boats built by the Seikhs, under the superintendence of Mr. Roobalee. It +contained 65 boats, placed alternately up and down the river; the boats +were moored to posts: over them were placed, both lengthwise and across, +timbers, then grass, then soil; many elephants passed over, until it gave +in, but was quickly repaired, and since many more hundreds of camels, +horses, and thousands of people have passed. The right bank is thirty +feet high, the left low and sandy. The country where uncultivated, is +clothed with grasses, and the only trees visible are perhaps the Pipul; +the _Jhow_ occurs but not the Parhass; a few Bukeens are visible, +Ricinus, Salvadora, which is occasionally a climber, especially at +Tiraia. The river rose suddenly on the night of the 6th and carried away +the bridge. The Himalayas had been seen very distinctly throughout the +day, so that the rain must have been local: the height of the rise was +three feet. + +We left Hurreekee on the 8th at 10 A.M., the river up to this time (9th) +presents the same monotonous appearance--sandy banks clothed with +grasses, intermixed with _Jhow_ here and there, and occasionally +AEschynomene, and Typha. Very few villages have been passed, nor does +the rare occurrence of topes indicate that there are many near it. The +channel has been throughout much subdivided, and flats are of frequent +occurrence. Yesterday we passed two busy ferries, at which two or three +boats were unceasingly employed, and there was an obvious demand for +more. Black partridges were heard frequently, black-bellied tern, +herons, cormorants, etc. The stream averages three miles an hour. +Parkinsonia was seen near Hurreekee. Reached Ferozepore at 12.5 on the +9th; it is a very busy ghat, more so than that of Hurreekee: two large +godowns were passed on the Company's side. The river is wider by 100 +yards than at Hurreekee. + +_10th_.--Reached Mamdot at 9.5 A.M. The fort appears of good size, with +high walls: it is about half a mile from the river. The country +continues the same. Some wheat cultivation, in which Fumaria, Anagallis, +Medicago are abundant; Calotropis Hamiltonii common; some grapes; _doob_ +grass wherever there is or has been cultivation. The only trees I see +are Babooloid, but not the true _Babool_, which has very odorous flowers, +and is always an arbuscula, a shrubby _Bheir_, spina una erecta, altera +recurvo also occurs; among the fields, Lathyrus, Aphaca, and a Compositae +which has the leaves of a thistle, are common. + +Halted at Buggeekee, which is, I imagine, the Pajarkee of Tassin's Map. + +_11th_.--Continued passing down, breakfasting at Attaree: few signs of +villages, but a good deal of cultivation. Persian wheels not +unfrequently employed in raising water from the river: a short channel +having first been cut in the bank, and the banks, when loose, propped up. +Wheat, radishes, etc. Grasses appear to be much less common, while the +_Jhow_ is increasing much. The river is much subdivided, and the actual +banks are scarcely discernible owing to the want of trees. The soil and +current remain the same: no impediments have been met with by our boats, +nor have I yet observed any to tracking, the grass jungle being easily +overcome, and very unlike that of the Brahmapootra, and the _Jhow_ not +reaching that height necessary to make it troublesome. The Nawab of +Mamdot visited the Envoy today, accompanied by a small party of horsemen. +Only two alligators have been seen thus far: no game even to be heard, +and but few living creatures visible. + +_12th_.--The river becomes even less interesting than before; the channel +is occasionally much narrowed by sands, over one of which we found +yesterday evening some difficulty in passing; it is much more spread out +and subdivided, and from this circumstance, will occasion difficulty in +tracking up. The banks are low and generally within reach of inundation: +scarcely a village is to be seen; and _Jhow_ is the most uniform feature. +Yesterday evening saltpetre was visible in abundance on some of the +higher banks, and on these _Phulahi_, _Jhow_, a Composita, and Salsola? +or Chenopodium were observed. Since the 10th, the few boats seen are of +different structure from those to which we had been accustomed; they are +flat, less wide, and much better fastened together, elevated at both +ends; they are propelled as well as guided by the rudder, which is +curved, so as to bring it within reach of the helmsman, who is on a level +with the bottom of the boat. Very little cultivation: Tassin's Map of +but little use, as few of the names are recognised by the boatmen or +villagers. + +Paukputtea was passed to-day; it is the shrine of a _fakeer_, and one in +great repute, as passing through a particular gate is supposed to +authorize one to claim admittance into Paradise. The Moulavee +consequently has proceeded there in full faith and extravagant joy: with +natives of the east such absurdities are to the full as much believed by +the educated as by the uneducated; indeed the former are much the more +bigoted of the two. The _fakeer_ alluded to, not only lived for years on +a block of wood carved into the likeness of a loaf, but subsequently +suspended himself for several years in a well, without even the wooden +loaf. He is then said to have disappeared, and is no doubt now enjoying +all the pleasures of a Mohammedan paradise. We were detained by strong +winds at a small village opposite Paukputtea, which is situated on rather +high ground, as far as could be judged from the distance. + +_13th_.--The cultivation round this village consists of wheat, radishes, +a sort of mustard cultivated for its oily seeds, and the Mehta of +Hindoostan. Among the fields I picked up a Melilotus, a Melilotoid, and +a genuine Medicago, which is also found at Loodianah, both these last are +wild, and their occurrence is as curious as it is interesting; the latter +being a decidedly boreal form. In connection with these annuals I have +to observe, that most flower about January or February, at which time the +mornings and nights are the coldest: also observed Lathyrus cultivated, a +Chenopodium was also found, Calotropis, a large Saccharoid, Amaranthaceae, +were the most common plants, Gnaphalium, Lippia; _Purwas_, occurs +scantily. + +_14th_.--Detained till 12 P.M. by bad weather. Sissoo not uncommon but +small, _Babool_, the true sweet scented sort. The Colocynth seen in +fruit much like an apple, not ribbed; it has the usual structure of the +order, viz. 3-carpellary with revolute placentae, so much so, that they +are placed near the circumference; seeds very numerous, surrounded with +pulp, not arillate: no separation taking place; oval, brown, smooth. In +fields here, a wild strong smelling Umbellifera occurs, called _Dhunnea_, +used as a potherb, and esteemed very fragrant by the natives. Besides +the absence of an arillus, there is another anomaly about the above +Colycynth, which is, that between each placenta a broad partition +projects from the wall of the fruit, usually provided with 3-septa, so as +to be divided into two chambers, these contain seeds, the funiculi +passing completely through them; seeds are also contained between the +outermost septa and the placentae themselves. + +Passed two or three villages. The Persian wheels continue in vogue; +their site is always on a sufficiently high and tenacious bank. I +observed some wells, communicating with the river by an archway in the +bank. Most of the cattle are blinded by the conical blinkers or hoods +over the eyes. + +_15th_.--Halted at a village partly washed away, surrounded by a good +deal of wheat and radish cultivation. The mango tree and Moringa also +occur here with the larger _Babool_, which invariably has long white +thorns. The small Sissoo still occurs. Snake bird seen, black crowned +tern. + +The river remains most uninteresting; the banks are low and covered +chiefly with _Jhow_. In many places recent shells are very abundant, but +do not appear to be composed of more than three species. Reseda, +Oligandra in fields. + +_16th_.--No change in the country. Heavy fog yesterday morning; to-day +strongish north-east winds. Grass and _Jhow_ about equal. + +_17th_.--Cloudy, drizzling, raw weather; river more sluggish; more +villages and more cultivation: Phascum, and Gymnostomum common on +tenacious sand banks. + +_18th_.--Weather unsettled; windy and rainy. _Jhow_ and grass jungle +continue, Tamarisk, _Furas_ fine specimens, Fumaria continues in fields, +Capparis aphylla, which has something of a Cactoid habit, and whose +branches abound with stomata, Reseda. + +_19th_.--Weather finer but still cloudy, north-east wind still prevalent, +and impeding our progress in some of the reaches very much. Salvadora, +Capparis aphylla, _Phulahi_, _Bheir_, large _Babool_, _Furas_, Ranunculus +sceleratus: _Jhow_ and grass jungle are the prevailing features. Current +much the same, only occasionally sluggish. Pelicans, black-headed +adjutants, (Ardea capita,) wild geese, ducks very numerous in the jheels +formed by alteration in the course of the river; the country is more +cultivated, but as dreary looking as imaginable. Phoenix becoming more +frequent and finer, P. acaulis? likewise occurs occasionally, rather +young _Khujoors_. We passed Khyrpore about 3 P.M., it seems a straggling +place, stretching along the bank of the Sutledge; there are a great many +_Khujoor_ trees about it, and indeed about all the villages near it. A +little below this large tract, the banks were covered with a thick +_Sofaida_ shrubby jungle, which looked at a distance like dwarf Sissoo. +The country is much improved, and there is a great deal of cultivation, +especially on the left bank. + +_20th_.--Continued--the river is very winding, and its banks present the +same features: the immediate ones being covered with short _Jhow_ or +grass, or both intermixed, the extreme ones well wooded, and well +peopled. _Khujoor_ very common. Yesterday near Khanpore, caught a +glimpse of the descent, and to-day again the ground appears uneven, and +almost entirely barren. It must be within a mile of the Sutledge. The +left bank continues well cultivated. In some of the fields I noticed +Medicago vera, Anagallis, Fumaria, Chenopodium cnicoideus, Prenanthoid, +the _Furas_, larger _Babool_, and Calotropis Hamiltonii continue. +Radishes very common, as also _Teera Meera_. + +_21st_.--Halted about 8 coss from Bahawulpore. The Khan's son, a boy of +8 years, came to see Mr. Macnaghten, and saluted him with "good night," +he was attended by about twelve indifferent pony _suwars_, or horsemen. +The river is very tortuous, both banks a good deal cultivated; there +appear to be a good many canals, which have high banks owing to the +excavated soil being piled up: they are 8 or 10 feet deep, and about 20 +feet wide, at this season they are nearly dry, becoming filled during the +rains. The same plants continue--_Furas_, _Jhow_, Chenopodia 2, Reseda, +Linaria, Malva, Boraginea, Lactucoidea. The wheat throughout these +countries is sown broadcast. Irrigation is effected by means of small +ditches, and squares formed in the fields--each partition being banked +in, so as to prevent communication; when one is filled, the water is +allowed to pass off into its neighbour, and so on. Irrigation is +entirely effected by Persian wheels; the cattle are hoodwinked in order +to keep them quiet: besides from not seeing, they are led to imagine that +the driver is always at his post, which is immediately behind the oxen +and on the curved flat timber which puts the whole apparatus in motion. +Saw a man cross the river by means of a _mushuk_ or inflated skin. The +very common bushy plant with thorns and ligulate leaves which commences +to appear about Hazaribagh and continues in abundance throughout the +sandy north-west, is, judging from its fruit, which is a moniliform +legume--a Papilionacea; the fruit are borne by the short spine-terminated +branches: the stalk of the pod is surrounded for the most part by a +cupuliform membranous calyx. I have only seen however withered +specimens. Reached Bahawul ghat at 1 P.M. The Khan visited Mr. +Macnaghten in the afternoon, his visit was preceded by one from his +Hindoo minister, and another man, Imaam Shah, who is a very fat ruffianly- +looking fellow. The Khan was attended by numerous _suwarries_; he is a +portly looking, middle-aged man. + +_22nd_.--We returned the visit to-day, the Khan having provided us with +one horse and two bullock _rhuts_: we traversed the sandy bank of the +river for about a mile before we reached the town, the suburbs of which +are extensive, but very straggling, and thinly peopled. The inner town +seemed to be of some extent, the streets narrow, the houses very poor, +and almost entirely of mud; there were a number of shops, and the streets +were lined with men and a few old women. There is very little +distinction in appearance between the Khan's residence and any other +portion of the town, and I did not see a defence of any kind. The Khan +received us on some irregular terraces; near his house, the street +leading to the private entrance was lined with his troops, as well as +that leading to the terrace, and this was surrounded with his adherents, +variously and well-dressed. The troops, for such appeared, were decent, +and those forming one side were dressed in white, in imitation of our +Sepoys, and the other side were in red and blue, _more proprio_ I +imagine: they were armed with muskets; the red ones for the most part +having muskets of native workmanship. A royal salute was fired when the +meeting took place, which was on the terrace, and as we proceeded up the +street, a band made a rude and noisy attempt at 'God save the King.' +Having had a private consultation, Mr. Macnaghten withdrew with similar +honours, presenting arms, etc. The presents were a handsome native +rifle, with a flint lock, and the fabrics of the city, some of which +called Kharse, were very creditable. + +There are a good many trees about the place, indeed these form the chief +mark when seen from the ghat: the principal are mangoes, _Khujoors_, +Moringas, oranges. The natives are rather a fine race, but dirty: some +of the women wore the _Patani_ veils, or hoods, with network over the +eyes. + +Continued down the river; though much delayed by strong south-east winds. +The vegetation, etc. continue the same, Potentilla sp. in flower, Phascum +very common. + +_23rd_.--Nothing new has occurred: the current is stronger than above +Bahawulpore: the channel continues very winding, and sandbanks very +frequent. _Furas_, Salvadora, _Phulahi_ very common. The boats +accidentally separated, and we went without dinner in consequence: came +into the Pungnud. The mouths of the Chenab seem to be two, both +apparently of no great size, yet the Pungnud is a noble river, and +although much subdivided by sand banks, is a striking stream, the waters +are very muddy, and when agitated by a strong wind become almost reddish. +The jungle continues much the same: the Sissoid jungle again occurred to- +day, the natives call it _Sofaida_; it has a very curious habit, and is +gemmiferous, the gemmae abounding in gum. Quail, black-grey partridge, +hares, continue; a goat-sucker (Caprimulgus,) was seen. + +_24th_.--The boats joined early this morning: we were delayed the whole +day by strong north-east winds; the whole country was obscured by the +dust. + +_26th_.--The wind abated towards evening, and occurred again in gusts +during the night. This morning we came in sight of the southerly portion +of the Soliman range, by which name however, these mountains do not +appear to be known hereabouts; their distance must be forty miles at +least, yet they appear to be of considerable height: the range runs north +and south nearly. Wheat is here sown in rows. _Khujoor_, large +_Babool_, Fagonia, continue, _Jhow_ very common. Towards evening we came +to a subdivision of the stream following the smaller one in which the +current was very strong; in some places, apparently six knots an hour. We +came to for the evening at a village on the limits of the Bahawul +territory. + +_27th_.--We came on the Indus early in the morning and stopped opposite +Mittunkote until 2 P.M., awaiting the arrival of Mr. Mackeson. The +mouths of the Attock river are scarcely more striking than those of the +Chenab; neither is the combined river immediately opposite Mittunkote of +any great size: certainly the stream we followed was not more than 800 or +900 yards wide, the extreme banks are at a considerable distance; and +half a mile below Mittunkote the surface of the water must be one and a +half to two miles in breadth; the river is much subdivided by banks, and +shallows are frequent, yet some of the reaches are of great extent. + +The banks are low and rather bluff, the vegetation continues the same, +but _Jhow_ is far the most common plant. _Bheir_, _Babool_, and the +_Seerkee_ Saccharum continue; the cultivation is the same; Calotropis +Hamiltonii. Mittunkote appears, from a distance of two coss, a place of +some size, with a somewhat conspicuous dome. Immediately behind it are +the Soliman Hills, of no great altitude; and, except at the bases, which +are covered with black patches of forest, they appear uniformly brown, +otherwise there is nothing to vary the monotony of the scene, scarcely +any trees being visible. On stopping for breakfast, a general scene of +embracing among the dhandies or boatmen and their friends occurred; women +were also embraced in the usual way, but with apparently less tenderness +or warmth than the men. The boats tracking up, have masts, but the goon +or rope is seized with both hands, a plan far less advantageous than that +adopted on the Ganges and Bramahpootra, where the principal tracking is +exercised by a bamboo placed over the shoulder, farthest from the goon. + +_28th_.--No change worth noticing. The current continues rapid. The +hills visible, running parallel to the river, and ending very gradually. +Typha is very common, and in some places Arundo. + +_29th_.--We remain in sight of, and generally continuing in the same +direction as the hills, which run out very gradually indeed. Scarcely a +tree is to be seen, and very few villages. The country continues to have +some vegetation. The _Sofaida_ is now found in flower, it is the _Ban_ +of the natives of these parts; the former name indicates in Persian, a +tree, said to be wild Poplar, with which this has an obvious affinity. +Saccharum _Seerkee_ very common, growing in tufts and covering extensive +tracts. Scarcely any cultivation is to be seen along the river, and +altogether a very small proportion is rendered available. River very +much subdivided: towards evening the sky is obscured to leeward by the +smoke arising from burning jungle. Waterfowl are very common along the +Indus; especially wild geese, which frequent open streams, whereas ducks, +etc. haunt places which only communicate with the main streams during +floods: myriads of _Bogulas_, (the general name for herons,) were seen +yesterday in a compact body. The Soliman mountains are by no means +rugged, and this only in one or two places, where they become peaked. In +Mr. Elphinstone's account of a Journey to Cabul, the limestone said to be +found in the desert contains shells; it would be most interesting to +compare this with the limestone of Churra more especially. Mr. E. also +mentions a wild rue as forming part of the very scanty vegetation of the +desert; the chief plants being _Kureel_, which is a Capparis; Phoke ---- +and _Bheir_. Mr. E. also says that the material of which the tope of +Manikyalah is built, resembles petrified vegetable matter, an observation +to be kept in view. The mottled kingfisher occurs throughout, but is +commoner in southern latitudes of India. + +Alligators abounded to-day, and it was curious to see them basking in the +sun with flocks of herons so close, that at a little distance they +appeared to be perching on the backs of the alligators, or rather +crocodiles. Again saw a man swim the Indus by means of a _mushuk_ or +inflated skin: he swam very rapidly, and with great ease; half his body +nearly being out of the water; he reclined on the skin and kept the +aperture by which it is inflated in his mouth, carrying his clothes on +his head. Passed Chuck about 4.5 P.M. The country appears populous +hereabouts. + +_30th_.--We have seen a good many boats today employed in carrying grain +to the camp; the smaller ones are not unlike Bengal boats, having a high +stern; all on the Indus however have square bows and flat bottoms. + +The _Jhow_ has increased in size in some places as has _Sofaida_, which +is occasionally a moderate tree, and it is now more advanced in +flowering: the temperature having visibly increased. The river puts on +the same features and is much subdivided; the channels by which we have +come, are not above 400 to 500 yards in breadth, yet there is often seen +to be a waste of low sand banks stretching to a great extent, and the +extreme banks are very remote, so as generally not to be visible. + +_31st_.--Arrived at Uzeeypore about 9 A.M. Here we found horses and +camels for our conveyance to Shikarpore. Uzeeypore appears to be a well +frequented passage of the river, although we did not see any ferry boats. +Bukkur is visible from it, apparently occupying a hill almost to the +extreme right of a low range running south-west; it is seven or eight +coss distant. We left for Shikarpore about 2.5 P.M. and reached about 7 +P.M.: the distance is said to be twenty-four miles; the road is generally +very sandy, although the sand is not very deep; the substratum being +solid. We passed some cultivation and a few villages, at one of which +(Khye) there is a neat sort of fortification; here we changed horses. The +jungle throughout consisted of Furas, Tamarisk, Salvadora, _Phulahi_ +parva, the prickly Leguminosa, with the habit of Fagonia, Calotropis +Hamiltonii, Saccharum. + +Shikarpore is not visible until one reaches the clearing around the town; +in the twilight it appears to be a very large place. + +_February 2nd_.--We do not proceed to Larkhanu, as daily news from +Hyderabad is expected. I see nothing likely to interest me about this +place; there is absolutely not a flower to be got any where. The jungles +consist of _Jhow_, small _Furas_, _Rairoo_, a small arbusculoid Mimosa, +_Kureel_, and Ukko, Calotropis Hamiltonii; _Bheirs_ shrubby; one of the +most abundant plants is the _Joussa_ or prickly Leguminosa, with the +habit of Fagonia; some of the saline loving Compositae, No. 51, frutex 2- +3 pedalis, foliis carnosis lanceolato-spathulatis, sessilibus. Corymbis +et Cymi axillaribus et terminalibus pauci capitat. Floscules +inconspicuis, also occurs. Near the Shah's tents there is a grove of +_Phulahi_, all more or less demolished, and a good many _Khujoors_. Hares +and grey partridges appear common. The changes of temperature are very +great; in the mornings and evenings it is cold; in the afternoon the +thermometer reaches as high as 82 degrees. + +_9th_.--Shikarpore is getting hotter every day: thermometer ranges from +40 degrees to 85 degrees. + +_15th_.--The heat continued to increase until the 12th; the range of +thermometer being from 50 degrees to 95 degrees; the evenings gradually +became hotter, and the night although cool, had the peculiar thrilling +coolness of tropical nights. + +On the 12th, the barometer commenced falling, and has since continued to +do so. The visible signs of rain have been confined to cloudy mornings; +the fall of the mercury is perhaps connected with the occasional strong +northerly winds, which at times, as last night, blow nearly half gales. +The range of thermometer is now from 55 degrees to 85 degrees. The +change was sudden on the 9th or 10th; the nights were cold, thermometer +at 5 A.M. 34 degrees 36'; and the days were only moderately warm. The +weather now is pleasant. Shikarpore is disagreeable _inter alia_ from +its dust, every thing becoming covered with it. + +The suburbs of the city are well wooded, and all such portions are well +provided with gardens. The _Khujoor_ is the most common tree, the +Moringa, mango, _Jamun_, _Bheir_, _Neem_, Cassia fistula, Sissoo, +_Peepul_, _Furas_, _Phulahi_, another Mimosa and Agati, occur; oranges in +gardens, and a Pomaceous tree from Cashmere, which appears to thrive very +well. The cultivation consists chiefly of wheat, _Mahta_, mustard, +radishes, _Soonf_, coriander, beet, _Bagree_. + +In these fields Phascum, Plantago, Ispaghula, Singee, Chenopodiaceae 1-2, +Salsola lanata, and Boehmeria, may be found; Composita salinaria, stocks +and wall-flowers in the gardens. + +The vegetation elsewhere is very scanty; consisting of _Jhow_, _Bheir_, +_Furas_, _Ukko_, _Joussa_, Andropogon _Seerkee_, _Rairoo_, _Kureel_, a +low bush called ----, and a Lycium? Boehmeria albida. + +The town is miserably defended: the streets are very irregular and very +narrow: the houses all of mud, of the usual Scindian form, and completely +irregular. The bazaars or arcades, are mere ordinary streets, covered in +with timbers, over which tattered mats are placed: in these are situated +the Hindoo shops, and in some places darkness is completely visible. +These Hindoos have a peculiar elongated Jewish aspect, and are reported +to be very wealthy. Grain and cloth are the principal articles in which +they deal, and they say the streets are covered in order that the +purchaser may buy with his eyes half shut. The city is a large rambling +place, and each house deposits its own filth before it. The inhabitants, +especially the Hindoo portion, have a peculiar complexion, and by no +means a healthy one. No one seems to have deserted the town on account +of our approach, neither has fear hitherto prevented them from bringing +their merchandise into camp. + +The weather has continued cool: yesterday we had a good deal of rain; to- +day it is very cloudy. The range of the thermometers from 46 degrees and +48 degrees to 82 degrees outside. + +Artificers are not uncommon, as carpenters and blacksmiths, but their +tools are miserable: and there is no such thing as a large saw to be +seen. Wages are high, and from the slowness with which they work, it is +ruinous to employ them. + +Left Shikarpore on the 21st and marched to Jargon, 13.5 miles, one of the +usual fortified villages of _kucha_ or unburnt brick. Houses surrounded +also with _Jhow_ fences. The jungle and country precisely the same as +that round Shikarpore, road at first bad, but subsequently good enough: +water is to be had very good: at no great depth. + +_22nd_.--To Janidaira, 11.5 miles: road excellent throughout. Country +less covered with jungle: features mostly the same: a curious looking +plant occurred plentifully, but to a limited extent near Jargon and +subsequently, as the country became more sandy, we had abundance of +Salicornia, of which camels are excessively fond, otherwise _Jhow_, +_Furas_, very common, _Rairoo_, _Kureel_, _Ukko_ throughout; near Jargon, +Elrua very common, Chenopodium cymbifolium throughout. + +The soil at first is very fine, finely pulverized, brownish as we +proceeded onwards, becoming more and more sandy. Hills of some height, +apparently very distant, are seen ahead due north, and to the west. We +passed one village to the left, two canals of small size, and some +_Bagree_ cultivation. A small ridge with a hillock occurred after +passing the village, otherwise all was flat. And about this the jungle +was thin, entirely of patches _Kureel_, _Rairoo_, and _Furas_, Peepul. + +We had a violent north wind yesterday evening with some rain. + +_23rd_.--To Rogan, distance 11 to 12 miles: country generally flat, +presenting here and there sandy undulations, generally bare of +vegetation. Salvadora, _Jhow_, _Furas_, _Kureel_, _Rairoo_, continue; +_Furas_ and _Rairoo_ most common; a new Chenopodium and a Salsola, or a +plant of the same genus as that met with yesterday, swarming in some +places, both species were common in some parts, in others one of the two +only occurred. Road generally excellent, level and unbroken. Two small +ghurrees or forts occurred, with a large patch of cotton, and still +larger of _Bagree_: a small Sedoid-looking plant with yellow flowers, and +one or two other (to me) novelties occurred: Heliotropium, Fagonia, +_Joussa_, _Bheir_. In those parts in which loose sand had become +accumulated, it not only formed banks, but every bush was submerged in +it. The fresh sand must be derived from decomposition of the hard level +plain by the action of the air: yet there should be a regular gradation +in size of the waves; those nearest the windward side of the desert ought +to be the smallest. Rock pigeon of Loodianah seen. + +There are two ghurrees or forts at the halting place, both small; the +water is tolerable. The chief trees are Salvadora and _Rairoo_. + +_24th and 25th_.--Left in the evening and marched all night through +the desert, which commences within two miles of Rogan, and towards which +place vegetation gradually becomes more scarce until it disappears +entirely. This sandy waste is upwards of twenty miles in extent: in the +direction we traversed it, NW. or NNW., it is almost totally deprived of +vegetation; one or two plants, such as Salsoloid, being alone observable +near its borders. The surface is generally quite flat, in some places +cut up by beds of small streams: the surface is firm, and bears marks of +inundation: tracks of camels, etc. being indented. We reached Bushore at +5.5 A.M.; the camels performed twenty-six miles in ten hours. We halted +for four hours in the centre of the desert and tried to sleep but the +cold was too great, striking up as it were from the ground. The camels +marched through without halting, and we suffered only one loss amongst +them next day. The occurrence of this peculiar desert is unaccountable, +especially its almost absolute privation of vegetation; for many other +places, equally dry, have their peculiar plants, such as Salsola, +Chenopodium, _Furas_, _Rairo_, _Ukkoo_, _Kureel_. + +_25th_.--Bushore is a miserable place, consisting of the usual mud houses +and defences: the adjacent nullah does not invite attention; it is +however the only seat of wells, which, as in all this country since +leaving Rogan, are of small diameter, from thirty to forty feet deep, and +contain very little water, which also is rather brackish and well +impregnated with sand. The surrounding country is so barren that it may +be called a desert, while the desert itself may be called the desert of +deserts. I should mention that this ceases first to the west, in which +direction shrubs encroach on it. _Phulahi_, Evolvulus acanthoides, +Tribulus, _Kureel_, etc. are found about Bushore, but the prevailing +plant is Chenopodium cymbifolium. + +_26th_.--Leaving Bushore, we proceeded to Joke, which we reached late, it +being nineteen miles: we lost the road however, which is in a direct line +only sixteen miles. We soon came on a nullah, or canal, which we +followed to Meerpore, a rather large double village, with a nice grove of +_Furas_, situated on the dry river Naree, which is as contemptible in +size as deficient in water, this is only procurable by digging wells of +thirty feet deep, and even then in small quantity. Before reaching it, +we passed several villages, mostly deserted and ruined. + +The country is frightfully bare of wood; the chief plant is Chenopodium +cymbifolium, and along the canal lemon grass, _Kureel_, _Rairoo_, +_Joussa_, _Ukko_, _Bheir_, etc.; near Meerpore a Centaurea, and Evolvulus +acanthaceus. But along the nullah some wood may be found, stunted though +it be, it is chiefly _Rairoo_. We left Meerpore and proceeded about one +and a half mile from Joke, following the nullah until we came on a canal +in which, from a bund having been thrown across, there was a puddle or +two of water. Here we halted. Much remains of cultivation is presented +about this, chiefly _Bagree_, which is perennial. Durand tells me that +the sprouts of the second year are poisonous to cattle, i.e. horses; but +this report may have been given out purposely by the natives. Along the +river, _Jhow_ and _Furas_ occur, in the naked plains, Chenopodium +cymbifolium, _Rairoo_, and a few _Kureel_, but they are so naked as to +afford little fodder for the camels: there is a little cultivation of +mustard, and _Taira meera_. The hills are about twenty miles off, and +appear about 4,000 feet high, they are precipitous, but the outline is +not rugged: they appear perfectly barren. Those to the north which run +nearly east and west are more distant. No new birds were seen; rock +pigeons occur. The soil would be rich if water were abundant: in the +_Bagree_ fields it is of a cloddy kind. + +Reseda, Euphorbia, Salsola lanata, Chenopodium cymbifolium, Evolvulus, +Panicum, and Andropogon occur here. _Jowaree_ sells at twelve seers a +rupee, and _Khurbee_ is very dear. A large plain occurs here covered +with Gramen Panicum, which is in tufts, and has the appearance of being +cultivated. + +_27th_.--Halted at our camp near Joke. The Naree runs one and a half +mile to the westward: its bed is fifty yards wide and about ten feet +deep; the banks are well clothed with _Furas_. There is a good deal of +_Bagree_ cultivation. + +_28th_.--To _Oostadkote_, nine and a half miles. The road is not a made +one for the latter one-third. Crossed the Naree about two miles from our +encampment: the country appeared the same. On arriving near our halting +place, green wheat fields, intermixed with much fresh Chenopodium, Gramen +Panicum, Reseda were most abundant, Chloroideum, Sinapis, Raphanus +cultivated with _Taira meera_, two Cruciferous plants common, Salsola +lanata also occurs. Water abundant in a channel of fifteen yards wide +and three feet deep, clear and tasteless. _Furas_ the most common shrub. +No grass occurs but the remains of Panicum. Wheat is here sown in +drills, in some places the crop is promising. The country is evidently +occasionally overflowed, witness the indurated surface and the fissures, +which away from the road, renders it bad for camels, being full of holes. + +There are several villages visible round our camp, all of the usual +miserable description, and there is a good deal of _Bagree_ cultivation. +The water does not extend more than a mile; it is eight feet deep, and +about twenty yards wide towards the head, where the bund is thrown +across. + +_March 1st_.--To Bagh nine and a half miles. The country is quite +similar: the chief plants continue to be Chenopodium cymbifolium, +_Kureel_, a _Rairoo_, _Ukko_, _Joussa_, and Salsola robusta, but occur in +no great plenty, they and all the face of the country exhibit marks of +inundation. Bagh is visible a long way off from its being ornamented +with a gamboge, or ochre-wash, otherwise its aspect is poor and muddy. We +came on the Naree about three miles from the town, and as it has been +bunded, it is full of clearish blue water, to a good depth. We encamped +about one and a half mile on the south side of the town. About the head +of the bund there is a good deal of wheat cultivation, and some mustard. +In these _khets_ Reseda is very abundant, Heliotrope is also common; I +picked up a Matthiola and a Pommereulla. The banks of the Naree are +clothed with small _Furas_, which in these parts are always encrusted +with saline matter, or, as it would seem, pure salt. Rock pigeons both +sorts, Loodianah rats, etc. + +Bagh is celebrated for gunpowder; it is a largish, straggling, but poor +place, though thickly tenanted. Its latitude is 29 degrees 1' 20", and +is placed thirty miles too far south in Tassin's last map. Sugar-candy +from Bussorah and cloth, are the principal articles sold. + +_4th_.--Marched sixteen miles to Mysoor: direction at first NNW. and +latterly west, close to the Brahorck hills. Water is plentiful in bunds +and river, but the country is very very bare, Salicornia robusta +uncommon, Plantago canescens, Poa, Cynodon, _Ukko_ is very common, +otherwise _Kureel_ is the predominant plant. A good deal of wheat +cultivation, every thing depends on water: the wheat along watercourses +is luxuriant, but where water is less plentiful, stunted: soil the same, +a tenacious sandy clay when wet: fields very free from weeds. Reseda +very common, but very small, Heliotropium ditto, Crucifera hispida ditto. +Green wheat a maund for a rupee. The road or rather country, is +intersected here and there by ravines. + +_5th_.--Halted. The nearest range of hills are six miles off, they have +a very peculiar irregular brown appearance. The higher ones also have a +similar appearance; these appear quite precipitous, and have in some +parts a curious crenated outline. The chief vegetation about this place +is _Kureel_, especially along the river and towards the bund, which last +is well filled with water. _Kureel_, _Furas_, _Ukko_, very common, +Cynodon, Prenanthoid, Poa minima, _Joussa_, Fagonia, Saccharum, Nerioid. +In the water Scirpus, Cyperaceus, Charae two species, Potomogeton two +species, Valisnaria, Typha. On banks, Plantago cana, a curious +_Sileneacea_, a splendid Orobanche, and a Brassicacea. + +The birds continue the same: there is abundance of Fulica, swarms of +waterfowl, herons, plovers, etc.; starlings re-appear. + +Some wheat fields well irrigated; most luxuriant _Khujoors_, radishes. + +_6th_.--Marched to Nowshera, sixteen miles: five first miles across a +plain scantily furnished with _Kureel_. Sturt tells me the country looks +quite a desert to the eastward from one of the hills. Thence we came on +the hills, through which and the dividing valleys we proceeded for two +miles, thence emerging into a narrow valley in which Nowshera is +situated, drained by the river of Mysoor, which is an insignificant +running stream. + +The hills are very curious, totally bare of vegetation, not more than two +or three stunted Chenopodium cymbifolium being seen on or about them. +They do not exceed 300 feet in height; their composition is various; they +are much worn by rain, and the outline although generally sharp, is often +rounded. They present great variety, but chiefly are of a soft clayish +looking substance, distinctly enough stratified, the uppermost strata +being indurated and often quite smooth, and of a sub-ochreous appearance. +The outer ridges on each side of the range slope gradually outwards, and +the surface in these slopes is smooth. Inside, or towards the inner part +of the range, they are generally precipitous, but beyond the uppermost +strata, the exposed face is not indurated, hence this can scarcely arise +from exposure to the weather. In these places they look much like +sandstone, the fragments at the base of the cliffs are clayey, mixed with +brown angular masses, occasionally shingle, and indeed, a low ridge near +the north side of the range is chiefly of shingle. The direction is +NNE., the angle of inclination of the slopes say 30 degrees. The hills +are highest towards the centre, and here some of the strata are curved. + +The plain between this and the main range is much broken by ravines +caused by rain; it is thinly covered with _Kureel_, Salsola robusta, +Chenopodium, etc. The vegetation along the river is the same as at +Mysoor. Durand finds nummulites, but thinks them brought down by the +river. The strata or rather debris of slips often intersected by nearly +erect projecting lines of a fibrous dyke. There is some wheat +cultivation in the fields, a new Plantago, a Ruta, Silenacea, a curious +Composita, two Boragineae, Phalaris, Phleum, Avena, two or three +Crucifera, Trigonella, and Melilotus are to be found. The vegetation +elsewhere is much the same, _Rairoo_, _Kureel_, _Ukko_, Chenopodium, +Lycium albidum re-occurs. + +_7th_.--Proceeded to Dadur, a distance of seven and a half miles, nearly +north. The country is a good deal cut up by water: within two and a half +miles of Dadur we crossed the Naree, a running stream, with small +boulders, and high clayey banks. The country improves towards Dadur, +topes becoming more frequent. Salsola lanata abundant: a good deal of +cultivation occurs along the river. + +_10th_.--Dadur is a good sized, and more orderly looking place than Bagh, +and is ornamented with well wooded gardens, among which the _Khujoor_ +holds a conspicuous place. An elegant and large _Bheir_ and a Mimosa, +are two other trees of the place; it is situated on the left bank of the +Bolan river. The bed of this river until the Levee bund was cut, had +been dry, but there is now plenty of water in it. It is in some places +much choked by bulrushes, etc., it is eighty yards broad, and is shingly. +Dadur stands nearly on the end of a good sized plain, surrounded on all +sides by hills, of which those traversed to Nowshera, run NNE. and are +lowest. The main range is four or five miles off. The greater part of +this plain is uncultivated and covered with _Rairoo_, _Kureel_, _Joussa_, +Sal. lanata, and Chenopodium; but along the sides of the river, as well +as near that crossed en route to this place from Nowshera, there is a +highly luxuriant cultivation of wheat, bearded and beardless, and barley. +In some places near the town, are rich gardens of _sonff_, coriander, +_Mola_, cress, onions, carrots, beet, among which a few poppies and +Cannabis occur. These, as well as the fields, are protected with loose +_Bheir_ fences. There are a few small villages around, all of the same +kucha or temporary construction, together with some remains of cotton, +which in these parts is perennial. + +There are no wild trees to be found, excepting perhaps an elegant species +of willow. The vegetation of the fields is highly interesting, +consisting of many European forms, similar to those at Nowshera--Avena, +Phleum, Polygonium, Zanthoxyloid, Erodium! Anagallis in abundance, +Plantago, _Pecagee_, Cynodon two species, Andropogon, Melilotus, +Medicago, Boraginea, Malva, Tetragonolotus, Astragaloides, Sperguloides, +Cruciferae. + +In the bed of the river Nerium, Paederioides, Crotalaria, etc. of which +the former is common every where: Fagonia, Viola found in the bed of the +river crossed en route hither, a very curious plant. Antirrhenoid was +brought from the hills by Capt. Sanders, singular in the inequality of +the calyx and the great development of the posticous sepal. + +Altogether this spot is curious in regard to vegetation, for the mean +annual temperature must be high, and the winter temperature by no means +low enough to account for the appearance presented. + +The only novel birds are a jackdaw, with the voice and manners of the red- +billed Himalayan species, and which I have only seen at a distance, and a +different sort of Pterocles. + +_11th_.--Proceeded to Drubbee, eight miles from Dadur, and about three +within the range of hills, the plain towards which is rather elevated, +and generally covered with boulders and shingle. The vegetation of this +shingly plain is much the same, Chenopodium, _Ukko_, Salsola, _Kureel_, +_Rairoo_; the most common shrubby plant, however, is an elegant Mimosa, +much like the _Babool_, with white thorns; Nerium oleander is also very +common along cuts. + +In some wheat fields I procured Imperata, a new Plantago, and a curious +Gnaphalium. The entrance to the pass is gradual; the hills almost +entirely bare. I noticed _Rairoo_, Salvadora, _Kureel_. The most novel +plant is a curious, erect, bushy, thorny Convolvulus, which is one of the +most common plants farther in. The pass to Drubbee is wide, say 300 +yards; the only obstacle exists in the shingle, which renders the road +heavy. No abutments are present, jutting out from the hills, the stream +is considerable but easily fordable, and abounds with fish, the Mahaseer, +and two or three species of Gonorhynchus. The hills about Drubbee are +not more than 500 feet high. They are generally of a coarse breccia, the +component parts principally limestone; abundance of nummulites. The +chief vegetation of the pass is one or two Andropogoneous grasses, and +Apocynum nerioides. There is absolutely no fodder for camels, which +however, take readily to grass. Towards the mouth of the pass, Paederia +involucrata, Villarsia, Lycioid, Stenophyllum and _Ukko_ are common, but +they are rare inside, although the last continues some distance up the +hills and attains a large size, becoming quite arboreous. A Crucifera, a +rhubarby sorrel, a Goodyera, and one or two grasses, were the only +additional novelties met with. + +_12th_.--Marched on eight miles, after five of which we turned to the +right, and the pass became and continued narrow, until we reached our +halting place, which is something like what we may suppose to be the +remains of a mountain, still a good deal elevated above the bed of river. +The mountains continued the same in the gorge, until we came to limestone +cliffs, which afforded a peculiar vegetation, Linaria retephioides, +Linaria alia pusilla foliis 5-gonis cordatis, floribus luteis minutis +pubescens, specimen lost, one or two Rubiaceae, a Salvia, several very +interesting grasses, among which is a Stipa, a Composita, Santanoides, a +curious Capparidea, Cassia, etc. etc. + +The hills have increased in height, in many places they were extremely +picturesque, split and divided in every direction. The valley running +off to south on our entrance into the gorge: river diminished somewhat in +size. Jheely spots, with very deep water common, surrounded with thick +Andropogon, Typha and Scirpus jungle. Few fish were seen and none taken. +Can the Mahaseer not reach this? Gonorhynchus continue, but they never +take a fly; Ophiocephalus, _Sowlee_; turtle caught by bearers, Silurus. +No less than twenty-three plants novel to me were gathered on the +limestone, which looks as bare as the breccia; all its plants grew in +small tufts or singly, and all adhered firmly to the rock. The only tree +which continues is _Phulahi_ or _Rairoo_; Convolvulus spinosus very +common, a very curious Chenopodioid, Reseda with Cruciferous qualities. + +_13th_.--Proceeded to Gurmab, eight and a half miles. Country continues +the same. The defile after crossing some rather broad water three feet +deep, opened out into a rather large valley, near the south end of which +Gurmab is situated, and it is _ornamented_ with a good many _Rairoo_ +trees, of indifferent size and appearance. No change whatever in the +vegetation; Salsola prima occurs sparingly. + +_14th_.--Halted at Gurmab. The hills close to our encampment are of +limestone, which is in many places very angular. Oolite found by Durand +in a low range, standing by itself in the valley, it generally bears a +vast quantity of nummulites and madrepores. A flat discoid organized +remain occurs in abundance, and probably belongs to the same group. +_Ukko_, _Rairoo_, _Kureel_ rare, Convolvulus spinosus, Frankenioides, +Stipaceum gramen, Euphorbia, Polygonum rheoides, Salvadora, may be found. +Along the water Andropogonoides 2, Typha, Arundo, Juncus, Scirpus +juncinus in abundance. In the water, a new Naias, and Conferveae. In a +ravine near our camp, I found a Cynoglossum and a curious Periploceous +plant, in habit approaching to certain Aphyllous, true Asclepiads. + +A few stunted dates are visible near Gurmab, which is three miles from +Kirtah, and towards the deep water there is a ruin of a single house. +_Rairoo_, Nerioid, and Lycium albidum are the most common ground plants. +There is only _Rairoo_ for camels, who do not thrive on harsh grasses, +although compelled by hunger to eat them. Large flocks of Doombah sheep +and goats belonging to Khelat men were met with. Mahaseer in abundance, +and very greedy after a red hackle of fish, Macrognathus and +Opheocephalus occur also. Of birds the white vulture, Alauda cristata et +alia, with a notched beak, a partridge which I had not previously seen, +Motacilla alia. + +_15th_.--Proceeded to Beebee Nanee, nine and a half miles up the valley +in which Gurmab is situated. The road tolerably level and good; boulders +not however common. The village of Kuttah, is one mile to the right, +consisting of one ruined house; near the exit from the valley a burial +ground occurs, having flags, or banners, pointing out the graves, which +are covered with heaps of stones. The exit from the valley is by a +narrow pass through a low range of angular limestone, thence up another +narrow shingly valley or narrowish gorge, and over a small stream of +water of ordinary temperature, where we encamped: in the second valley +two spots were observed covered with graves. Immense flocks of birds +were seen on the range to the west of the valley. In the first valley +Paederia involucrata and Salsola prima, are the most common plants. On +the limestone hills, Convolvulus spinosus, Frankeniacea, Plantago +villosa, and a curious Composita, subacaulis, involucro foliaceo, of +which the single specimen has been lost, a few _Bheirs_. + +Encamped in a small valley or pass leading to Khelat, a marked one only a +few hundred yards wide. To the west, the hills continue very barren. +Gurmab--this takes its name from the warmth of the water, which +apparently rises in several sedgy spots; the united waters form a small +stream abounding with Mahaseer, Barbus, etc. and falling into another +stream, again meets the main river, which runs off to the eastward from +the place where it is crossed towards Gurmab. There is no sign of +bubbling in the springs, although the water commences to run visibly from +within a few yards. The temperature of one did not vary from 76 degrees, +which must be about the mean temperature of the place, but the +temperature of a deep body of water after the confluence of several +springs was 82 degrees, so that some of them must hence be of +considerable temperature: the highest examined was 81 degrees. + +Of three springs examined--the first of these had a temperature of 82 +degrees Fahr.--the second of 77 degrees, these unite to form the +streamlet that runs towards the east--the third spring had a temperature +of 77 degrees: this is crossed on entering the valley from the south, it +runs under a limestone range, and then bends off to the south-east to +unite with the main stream. Cyprinus fulgens and C. bimaculatus were +found in the 82 degrees spring. From the variation in the temperature of +the three, it is obvious that neither represents the mean temperature of +the place. + +_16th_.--To Abigoom, eight and a quarter miles, through a similar country +up a valley in a NNW. direction; the valley is narrowed towards the +middle, and is a plain of considerable inclination, the chief rocks +passed are limestones. No fodder for camels, and little enough on the +road for horses; the chief vegetation consisting of Nerioides, Paederia +involucrata, and small tufts of _Kuss-kuss_ grass; Ruwash is common, +Lycium album; Salsola prima are not common, and the _Bheir_ is rare. A +new and curious plant looking like _Kureel_ was found, male flowers with +large semi-antheriferous bearing disc. Apocynum viminale not uncommon, +and not ruined by cattle, Prenanthoid albiflora, Echinopsides, a fine +Begonia, B. punicoides, arbuscula; Salvadora also occurred. The inclined +valleys are very shingly and bouldery. The mountains as barren as ever. + +There is at Beebee Nanee a running streamlet, in which small Mahaseer, +Nepuroid, Gonorhynchus and Barbus may be found; also a species of Cancer. +We were encamped close to the cliffy termination of a limestone range, in +which Linaria, Trichodesma, Cynoglossum, Ruwash, Labiata, and a most +singular Telepheoid polygalous looking plant were found. There is some +fodder along the water for horses, but for camels scarcely any: we +accordingly lose six to ten camels now daily. There was a curious echo +from the cliff. + +_17th_.--To-day we halt at Abigoom, which is at the extremity of an +inclined plain, and 2,500 feet above the sea; some of the boundary hills +are considerably higher, the valley is shingly and bouldery, covered with +the usual plants, but more scantily: Nerioid, Paederia involucrata, +Lycium albidium, Apocynum viminale. + +I went to some wheat cultivation yesterday afternoon about two and a half +miles off, in a small valley to the south-east. The wheat was fine, all +bearded, most of the Dadur plant occurred in it with some curious +novelties, Boraginea, Cynoglossum, Compositae, Cuscuta, and a new Reseda. +The Melilotus and red Anchusoid were not found, Plantago, were among the +most abundant. A single _Furas_ tree and some _Kureel_ were seen near +the wheat. The weather unsettled; cloudy; rain fell at night and early +this morning. A _cafilah_ or caravan from Candahar with figs and raisins +passed us. Rock pigeon of Loodianah and the small partridge were +observed. There is a streamlet here. + +_18th_.--Detained by bad weather, which threatened the whole of +yesterday. The river came down during the night, flooded, and upset some +of the tents, damaging many things, but not carrying off much. It rained +smartly almost the whole night: we moved this morning to rather higher +ground, but not so high as to preclude all danger should the river rise +again. A dawk man arrived last night, bringing a handful of tulips which +he said came from Shal; it is a small species, foliis subtortis undulatis +caule 1-flora, flore amplo aureo subodora. + +_19th_.--Advanced to Sirekhugoor, distance nineteen miles, ascent +throughout on a considerably inclined plain up the bed of a river, +shingly and bouldery; the pass is not much contracted, but a short +distance from Abigoom we parted from every thing like valleys. The +vegetation continues much the same: _Kureel_, Salsola prima re-occurred +near Abigoom but sparingly, chief vegetation consists of clumps of +withered coarse Andropogons, Nerioides, Paederia, and Lycium, but less +common than before, while Apocynum viminale, and Convolvulus spinosus +have increased. The bed of the streamlet is until near Sirekhugoor, +chiefly occupied by a large Arundo just past flowering, in which Typha +also occurs sparingly: within 300 feet of the halting place, a solitary +_Khujoor_, and some wheat cultivation occurs, the latter much behind that +of Abigoom. In the fields Polygala occurred with a Galium; the most +common plant being a Sinapis found at Dadur: some _Bheir_ trees also +occur here; a few Compositae, Labiatae, and Cruciferae, similar to those +at Abigoom, are also found: the novelties were _Peganum_ which continues +throughout the pass, Hyoscyamoid, and one or two Compositae; while in +water-courses close to it the first dripping rocks occurred covered with +Adiantum and fructiferous mosses, and a curious Primuloid plant out of +flower, with a curious Clematis. + +The halting place is at the head of the stream, which gushes copiously +out of a rock; the bed of the river or defile is 100 yards wide: the +mountains immediately adjoining not exceeding 1,000 feet in height, but +the second range is much higher, that to our north being plentifully +sprinkled with snow. These mountains are barren, chiefly covered with +Convolvulus spinosus, which has a different aspect, with a Sytisoid, +handsome silvery shrub, a species of Caragana and Apocynum viminale: +about the spring and in other places there are thick patches of a very +dwarf palm, and a solitary fig tree, a Lycium album continues: the bed +occupied by tufts of coarse Andropogons and Apocynum viminale; about the +spring Adiantum, a small Boraginia, white flowered small Compositae, a +withered Hepaticum, two or three efructiferous mosses, and the Primuloid +plant. In the stream Chara, Conferva, Peppermint, _Beccabunga_, +Convolvulus, like C. reptans, Arundo left behind nearly. On the +mountains fragrant Labiatae, Compositae, and Umbelliferae are commencing. +The barometer stood at 25.669; thermometer 64 degrees at 11 A.M. Many +soft rocks occurred: passed a clayey looking one, with very elevated +strata, containing veins of transverse crystals: the sides of the defile +are often precipitous, these are generally formed of conglomerate. + +_20th_.--Continued up the same defile, a gradual ascent, and about two +miles from Sirekhugoor entered the pass by pre-eminence; very much +narrowed, precipitous cliffs on both sides: this continues for some time. +The road good, shingly, but not very bouldery; very winding, and +generally capable of strong defence; much cover exists from the rugged +margins of cliffs, and windings of the road. The mountains, after four +or five miles were passed, gradually receded and became less precipitous: +at length we came to gradually rounded more distant mountains; then to a +small valley; then ascended say 100 feet, over a low rocky range, and +descended into a fine valley, surrounded by usual barren looking +mountains: high ranges to the north and south covered with snow +presenting a beautiful view--and now entered Khorassan. We were +accompanied by several bands of a gypsyish-looking people, forming parts +of a _cafilah_. They were accompanied with numerous goats: and camels +ornamented with trappings. + +Throughout the very narrow portion of the pass the vegetation continues +the same: at Sirekhugoor a Xanthoxylon appears and continues nearly +throughout: this and an oleinous looking small tree are the only +arborescent plants: Apocynum viminale and the other plants of Sirekhugoor +continue, nor did I notice any new ones further than a Sedum, and +Tortula. However fragrant Labiatae and Compositae increase in number, +but none are in flower. + +As soon as we opened out from the pass, the vegetation almost entirely +changed; the hills assumed a rounded form, covered with low bushes, and +were much less rocky. Umbelliferae, Labiatae, and Compositae abound, +some of them deliciously fragrant: an Astragaloid spinosus very common, a +shrubby Cerasus, Thalictrum, Hypoxis, and small Cruciferae abundant. The +chief vegetation consists of grasses in low round tufts; Anemone, Tulipa, +etc. all small. After crossing a low range we came into the valley, +which is almost entirely covered with an Artemisioid odoriferous plant; +no verdure was visible, even on the snowy ranges. We encamped close +under a ridge about two and a half miles to the north of the summit of +the pass. + +_21st_.--Halted: there being some water collected in attempts to form a +nullah from the last rain, it is quite brownish and opaque, but deposits +no sediment, and makes good tea, although disagreeable to drink in any +other form. I walked out in the afternoon into a valley to the west, +close to our encampment, and thence ascended a hill 600 feet high at +least. + +This valley like the one in which we are encamped is covered entirely by +an Artemisioid, a very fragrant plant, each shrub of which is distinct; +mixed with it are tulips, several small Cruciferae, and a +Fritillarioides. + +The same Artemisioid is also the chief plant on all the hills: it is +mixed, but in small quantities with Cerasus pygmaeus, Equisetoid, +Caragana, and one or two shrubby Labiatae; and also especially above, +with a curious Astragaloid looking plant. The herbaceous plants are +numerous, consisting of very fragrant Umbelliferae, bursting into leaf; +tulips, Fritillarioides, Trichostema, Erodium, Iris, Thalictrum, Senecio, +Boragineae 2, Gilenacea, several tufted Gramineae, Berberideae, +Ranunculoides, Myosotis, Anemone cracea, Asphodeloid, Mesembryanthoids; +of mosses Tortula, Grimmia. + +_22nd_.--Proceeded to Sinab, a distance of fifteen and three quarter +miles, up two valleys, no ascents. These valleys are elevated towards +the mountains and generally depressed in the centre: in some they stretch +out a long way from the mountain to which they may be imagined to belong. +The mountains seen from a distance jutting out from perhaps the centre of +a plain, look curious. The vegetation is generally Artemisioid, and very +fragrant: the first valley in its depressed portions was covered with a +Salsoloid looking plant, to the exclusion of Compositae, but these last +recurred in the higher parts. + +With the Compositae, swarms of small Cruciferae occur; that with purple +flowers and pinnatisect leaves being the most common. Very rugged hills +are visible to the north-east and north of our route, presenting a very +different appearance from the usual aspect: they are steep to the east, +and present inclined slopes to the west. + +_Sunday_, _24th_.--Halted this day. Little new occurs in the valley, +except a few trees out of leaf and flower, which, though trees here, yet +the species are not so elsewhere. At this place are the heads of the +river of Pisheen, which appear to arise more artificially than naturally +from _Kahreezes_, or wells dug in a rude way, and communicating by +subterranean channels; those nearest the natural outlet of the water +being the shallowest. The vegetation is the same; there is a little +cultivation, but nothing to indicate any descent. The amount of +population is not great; and the hills to the west are covered with snow. +The chief vegetation is _Santonica_. In cornfields Fumariaceae, Adonis, +Cruciferae, Pulmonaria, Arenaria, Hordei sp., Tulipa lutea, and +Hyacinthus? may be found. + +The vegetation of the plains, inclusive of Santonica, consists generally +of three or four small Cruciferae, Tulipa lutea. + +I went to the west towards the snow, and found in the river here an +aquatic Ranunculus, foliis omnibus immersis, floribus albis, Chara is +common; gravelly slopes commence some distance from hills, covered with +Santonica, Astragaloid spinosus, Leguminosae, a spinous Statice, Cytisus +argenteis, Composita floribunda carnosa. + +The mountains are covered with masses of rock. One tree occurs with a +Fraxinus? a Thymeleous looking shrub, Cytisus, Caragana. The herbaceous +plants are very numerous, Compositae, Cruciferae, small Leguminosae, +Berberideae, Isopyroides, Crocus? Gentiana, Onosma and other Boragineae, +Umbelliferae, Silenaceae, especially small Arenariae; Cupressus commences +about 6,500 feet, near the Cypress an Arctium occurred, at least it has +the habit of that genus, Onosma, a curious Boraginea calyce sinubus +bidentigeris, demum plano! ampliato bilabiato! clauso, quasi hastato +lobato, nucibus compressis, 2, Sedums 4, Arenariae, a fine Gentiana, +Crocoides, Iris, Ornithogaloides or Trichonema occurred, with many +others. The greatest elevation attained was about 1,200 feet above the +camp. Chikor and the smaller partridge were seen. + +_25th_.--Marched to Quettah, eight and a half miles up the valley over a +delightful road. The valley is cultivated, and many villages are visible +with their orchards, consisting of mulberry trees, cherries, and +apricots, surrounded with mud walls; the houses miserable, and all trees +out of leaf: the crops under cultivation are more advanced, but depend on +irrigation, some salad-bearing plant occurred cultivated in trenches like +asparagus: the fields are clean, and sometimes well manured. A Veronica +allied to V. agrestis, 2 or 3 Euphorbiaceae, a very well defined +Plantago, Hyacinthus, and a pretty Muscari, were among the novelties; +Juncus, Chara, Carex, occurred in some marshy spots. I was most struck +with the occurrence of at least two species of Lucerne, or Trefoil: wells +are common, and water abundant. The climate is delightful, temperature +49 degrees at 9 P.M. in a tent. + +_26th_.--I ascended towards a snowy range to the ESE. of our camp, +crossing a cultivated portion of the valley extending to the gradual +slopes so universal between the level portion and the bases of the +mountains, and which are always covered with shingle, and occasionally +much cut up by watercourses. Turning a ridge I ascended up a ravine, +rather wide and easy at first, but becoming gradually narrow, and at last +difficult. On coming to its head I rambled some distance higher among +precipitous rocks, the ground generally covered with loose shingle, +giving bad footing. The rocks too were treacherous, often giving way +under the feet. I was still 1,000 feet from the summit, which is the +second range between our camp and the snow but which is not visible from +the camp. From it I saw the camp, and the valley of Pisheen beyond the +termination of the Tuckatoo range. Water boiled at 196 degrees 7', +making the height about 8,300 feet, in my (new) Woollaston instrument at +686; temperature of the air 46 degrees 5'. Nothing occurred to repay me +for the fatigue of the excursion. Junipers or cypress form the chief +arbusculous vegetation, but even these are scanty; they commence at 6,500 +feet, and continue to the snow: Fraxinus occurred about 7,000 feet, and +another tree of which I could make nothing, it being out of flower and +leaf. Compositae were the prevailing vegetation; but of these, only the +remains were found, which were very fragrant. A large thorny Leguminous +shrub out of leaf, etc. looking much like a Rosa, Equisetoides, etc.; of +mosses, Weissia Templetonii, and Tortula, so that in these there is very +little variety; the debris of one Hepatica occurred. + +At the foot of the mountains, the only place out of the valley where any +vegetation is to be found, Asphodelus, radicibus luteis, foliis +triangularibus, a fine plant coming into flower, Cytisus, Caragana, +Narcissus? Cruciferae, among them a small Draba, Cerasus pygmaeus, +Peganum, Salsoloid of Mumzil, Trichonema, Myosotis, Gentiana of Chiltera, +Buddlaea, Carex; indeed the vegetation is precisely the same as at +Chiltera. The only novelty was Bardana in flower, and it proves to be a +cruciferous plant of large size. + +On the stony slopes, a shrubby spinous Centauroid, foliis pinnatifidis +glaucis, Cytisus, Caragana, Asphodelus and Cheiranthus are the prevailing +plants. No Santonica is found about here. + +A new Iris occurs in abundance: near this in wettish parts of the valley +a Vicia, Muscari, Hyacinthus and others as before. The chief cultivation +is wheat, irrigated in plots: the soil when saturated with water, forming +a clayish, adhesive, finely pulverulent mass, which cakes on drying. A +watermill for flour, having a horizontal wheel acted on by the stream as +in Bootan occurs; the grain drops in from a pyramidal cone fixed over the +two horizontal stones, in the upper of which there is a hole. The +apparatus is very rude. + +The height attained by me on the eastern ridge being about 8,300 feet; +that of the 2nd range, will be 9,300 feet at least, and the height of the +peak or highest ridge, cannot be less than 11,000 feet. + +30th.--Continue to halt. There is a good deal of cultivation about this +place, but the crops will not be ripe before August: it is principally +wheat; munjit is also cultivated on trenched ground: the young sprouts +have a good salad-like flavour. The Suddozye Lora runs through the +valley, about two miles from the town: it is a small stream, crowded here +and there with bulrushes, sedges, etc. Towards its banks there is a good +deal of Santonica, but elsewhere there is no good fodder, and wherever +this is the case the camels eat Iris, and destroy themselves. The valley +is sprinkled over with villages and orchards, and is picturesque enough. +In one spot, where water runs over the surface, it is delightfully green +and velvety, covered with short grass and trefoil, Carex, etc. + +In cornfields in this direction, Berberidea ranunculiflora is very +common, Muscari, Hyacinthus, Taraxacum, Plantago. Of animals the Jerboa, +sent to Macleod by Mr. Mackenzie, of the Artillery, several specimens +having been caught here: presenting affinities obviously with the hare, +and analogies with the Kangaroo. Macleod has just given me, from his +namesake of the 3rd Cavalry, a tadpole-like animal, very similar to one +from the Khasiya Hills. I fear it is a tadpole, but I keep the specimen +lest it should be a Lepidosiren. + +The orchards here consist of cherry, and a pomaceous tree which also is +cultivated at Shikarpore, and on the skirts occasionally of willows, +which, were they unmutilated, would be handsome trees. The Punjabi name +of the pomaceous one is _Sai-oo_, of the cherry or plum _Aloochah_. + +Senecionoid glauca is extremely common towards the river, but is not +eaten by camels. In the streams arising from springs a Myriophylloides +is very common; as also in some places, Ranunculus aquaticus, Beccabunga, +Mentha piperitioid, a Sicyoid, Juncus, Coniferae, and Cariceae, all +small. + +Along the banks of the river, there is a good deal of a small thorny +shrub with white bark and fleshy clavato-spathulate leaves. Themopsis is +extremely common, Crucifera glauca ditto, Peganum less so, Achilleoides +is very common. In damp spots a Lotus (out of flower) occurs. The +ground is covered in many places with an efflorescence of saltpetre. + +_Quettah_.--The country was so disturbed throughout the greater part of +the line, and attacks on followers so frequent, that I did not go out so +much during the last few days as I otherwise would. The only plant that +seems to a considerable extent local, is the larger Asphodel, which is +however found occasionally towards Kuchlak. Within the last few days +vegetation has rapidly progressed; the orchards bursting into leaf, and +the whole plain, where uncultivated, is assuming a greenish tint. I have +nothing to add respecting the botany, except having found Ceratophyllum +and two species of Chara, one a very interesting species from having the +joints furnished with semi-reflexed, very narrow leaves, it is apparently +Dioeceous, there is also a Naiad, much like that found at Dadur. No +Lemnae occur among the vegetation: there is some sort of pea cultivated: +but the chief object is wheat, then next to it in extent is Lucerne, +which is cultivated in plots; the ground being laid out as in wheat, so +as to allow of irrigation. + +The climate is variable; rain generally falls every four or five days, +before this happens it becomes hot and hazy, afterwards it is very cold +and clear: the alternations are hence very great. From the thermometer +immersed in the fount of a spring gushing out from a _Kabreeza_, the mean +temperature would appear to be 56 degrees. Water running in cuts close +to it, was 66 degrees. A Tauschia occurs in abundance near the spot, and +is remarkable for illustrating the nature of the leaves of the upper +parts; it is curious that all such have a peculiar aspect. (For other +plants of this neighbourhood, see Cat. and Icones.) + +The town although the third in Khorassan, is a miserable place and has a +deserted aspect, the houses are of the most temporary construction, and +the hill is crowned by a poor half-ruined _kucha_ fort; the gates of the +town are ornamented with wild goats' horns and heads. There is no trade, +and the place is stated to be plundered often by Caukers. +Orchards--apricots of large size, and very large cherry trees, a +pomaceous plant with the habit of poplar, occurs; the Ulmus of this place +is one of the largest sized trees; no walnuts. + +_April 6th_.--Left Quettah for Kuchlak. We traversed the sandy plain +and then ascended the gravelly slope to the pass traversed before +reaching Kuchlak, the ascent and descent were about equal, but the former +was long and gradual, the latter rapid and short. The features of the +country are precisely the same; the pass is short, the descent to the +ravine, which in the rains is evidently a watercourse, short and steep, +not 100 feet. The mountains forming the sides are steep; and those to +the left, bold and romantic, with here and there a small tree. The plain +of Kuchlak is like that of Quettah, well supplied with water-cuts and one +small canal, but miserably cultivated, and with very few villages. The +hills forming its west boundary are low, rugged, and curiously variegated +with red and white. Tuckatoo forms part of its eastern boundary: no snow +is visible on its face towards Kuchlak: a few low rounded hillocks occur +in the centre of the valley. The chief vegetation round the camp, is +Santonica. We encamped close to the western boundary of the valley, +about two miles from the grand camp: total distance of the march thirteen +and a half miles. The climate is very hot and variable; thermometer +ranged to-day from 40 degrees to 86 degrees. + +The chief vegetation of the gravelly slopes is as marked as ever, and +differs entirely from that of the sandy tillable portion; it consists of +Centaurea fruticosa, C. spinosa, Anthylloides or Ononoides, Astragalus +spinosus, and Staticoides, another thorny Composita occurs, but is not +common, the herbaceous plants are Cruciferae in large numbers, as well as +Compositae; of Boragineae, a good many, some Labiatae, a large Salvia: +towards the tillable lands or where gravelly places occur among these, +Asphodelus is common with Cheiranthus; one or more fruticose Dianthi +occur in these places, and a curious shrubby Polygonum. + +In dry watercourses Cytisus is common, with a host of small Cruciferae, +Boragineae, and Compositae; Papaveraceae are very common with Glaucium. + +The novelties in the pass were Ficus, Lycium, some grasses, Onosma. (See +Cat. from Nos. 411 to 430,) Marchantiaceae. + +_7th_.--Proceeded to Hydozee, distance eight miles. The country is very +barren, diversified by curious low hills, of a red, white, or yellowish +colour, divided by small bits of plain, which in some cases were a good +deal cut up by ravines. Passed immediately on starting, the Sudoozye +Lora, here a sluggish muddy stream, knee-deep, twenty yards wide, and in +addition to a bad dry cut, we passed likewise another little stream with +a pebbly bottom and rapid current. + +The crops composing the very little cultivation seen before arriving, +were backward and scanty: so were those at Hydozee. The chief vegetation +is Santonica; here and there are gravelly spots with Centaurea fruticosa, +spinosa; Statice, Salvia, etc. re-occur. The commonest shrub along the +watercourses is Lycium, with another Lycioid thorny plant. + +The low hills were in some cases stratified, the strata in others and +perhaps in most were indistinct: most were rounded, but the outlines at a +distance were very diversified. The novelties today were a fine +vesicular calyxed Astragalus, an Isatidea, tulip of red, orange, and +yellow, indiscriminately mixed, Papaver Rheas, Cheiranthus lapidium, +Asphodels both sorts, but the second and larger one is uncommon, Iris +_Stacyana_ very common in sandy places, Iris agrestis, most common about +Suddozye, Adonis, and Ranunculus Anemoides occurs. Snow on north side of +Tuckatoo mountain as heavy as on Chiltera; the valley of Pisheen is here +a miserable place, narrower than that of Quettah. + +_9th_.--Advanced to Hykulzyea, distance twelve miles to the town, about +eleven through a similar country with that previously noted, and until +the expanded part of the valley of Pisheen is entered the aspect is very +barren; the road extends between low rounded hills. After crossing the +valley of Hydozyea, three streams are passed, none of any size. Botanical +features continue the same, Santonica being still the prevailing plant. +The curious frutex pluvinatus of Sinab re-occurred, together with an +additional subspiny Astragaloid shrub and a small Ruta. The hills are +covered with distinct small shrubs, never coalescing into patches. +Peganum continues in addition to the other plants: Glaucioides has +aqueous juice, Papaver Rheas ditto, the other smooth-leaved one has it +slightly milky. + +Lycium and Tamarisk 4-fida is rather common: Hykulzyea is a far larger +place than Quettah, but miserably defended. The houses are very +inferior, consisting of thatch and mud. The cultivation of wheat is +rather extensive around. Many villages are seen towards the hills to the +north and NNE.; also one or two forts, but not a tree is to be seen in +the valley which is comparatively very large and very level. The hills +to the north have the ordinary appearance; those separating us from the +valley of Hydozyea, more especially the lower ranges, are so confused +that they look like a chopping sea, and present a red and white colour. +The rock pigeon of Loodianah is common about Hydozyea. A few novelties +occurred in the vegetation, the chief of which being a large Salvoid +Labiata, a plant which is very common throughout Khorassan from Sinab in +gravelly spots. Leguminosae, Boragineae, Compositae, Cruciferae, and +Labiatae, are the prevailing plants; Salsola tertia not uncommon. Birds +as before, Alauda cristata, and Sylvioides being the most common; no red +legged crows were seen. Rock pigeons are abundant. + +_10th_.--March to Berumby, distance thirteen miles, the road very bad in +one or two places: the first difficulty being a rather deep ravine, the +second a nullah, with water knee-deep, and very high precipitous banks, +yet both these had to be passed. Much of the baggage was not up at the +encampment until 5 P.M., although we started at 3 A.M., but the nullah +was literally choked up with camels. No change in the vegetation has +appeared, except in the occurrence of large tracts of Tamarisk, which +tree reaches to nearly the same size as the _Jhow_. Very little +cultivation is to be seen; the villages are tolerably numerous, +especially near the hills forming the north boundary of the valley. + +_11th_.--Entered the pass which is at first wide, with a gradual ascent, +but which soon becomes narrowish, with a good though gradual and easy +ascent: the mountains are of no height, and they are not generally +precipitous: no limestone, but much clay slate occurs. The ravine up +which we passed, or rather watercourse, was well stocked with +Xanthoxylon, some of large size as to the diameter of trunk, but very +stumpy: water is found not far from the entrance: some cultivation also +occurs and one large walled village, Dera Abdoollah Khan, lay to our +left. Not much change in the vegetation: Xanthoxylon is almost entirely +confined to ravines, Cerasus common, and one or two other prickly shrubs, +and a Ruta, Onosma, Linarea, coming into flower, are among the novelties. + +We encamped where the pass becomes narrow, and the ascent steep, and +where water is plentiful, but the stream being soon absorbed does not +appear to run down the main ravine at this season. + +_12th_.--Halted, to make the road where the main ascent commences about +400 yards from our camp, and which is about 300 feet high; thence there +is a descent, and afterwards an ascent to about 600 feet above the camp, +whence the _low_ plains of Candahar are visible, as well as the range to +the north of which Candahar stands. The road is good compared with +places elsewhere to be seen, and for common traffic on camels may be easy +enough; but for guns, it is steep and difficult. The way it has been +made by the Engineers is admirable and rapid; three other passes without +roads, and in their rude natural state are as yet to be crossed. The +pass here is narrow, none of the hills rise more than 1,000 feet above +it, they are easily accessible, and are composed chiefly of clay slate. +Chikores are frequent. The cuckoo was heard to-day, as well as a +beautifully melodious titmouse, with a black crown: a fine eagle, or +falcon was seen. + +The hills are as usual barren, all the shrubs are thorny, and all the +plants unsocial, never coalescing into any thing like groups. The +Xanthoxylon is found throughout in ravines up to nearly 7,000 feet, the +utmost height of the pass. Fraxmus of Chiltera also occurs, Cerasus +primus, in abundance, Cerasus alius, tertius, not uncommon, Berberis! +here and there in ravines, Equisetoides, Caraganoides altera; the most +common shrubs of any size are Cerasus primus. The other shrubs consist +of the low customary Compositae, and Astragaleae, Umbelliferae are +common, among which last the Nari, a species of Assafoetida occurs? A +beautiful Iris is common, as well as tufts of Berberideae, Asphodelus +major, and which is much eaten when cooked as a _turkaree_ by our hungry +followers, Eryngioides, Aconitoides, a Valeriana, three new small +Veronicae, small Cruciferae, Silenaceae, Boragineae, and Labiatae, form +the bulk of the herbaceous vegetation. An Arenarioid, Muscoid, +Cruciferae, common at the head of the pass. A large Acanthoid leaved +Umbellifera, a Rheoides papillis verrucosum, this is a true Rheum, and +when cultivated becomes the _Ruwash_ of the Affghanistans; it is very +common on the Candahar face of the pass, particularly about Chokey, where +it is in flower. + +_13th_.--Proceeded to Chokey, not quite four miles. The top of the pass +may be reached by three or four passes. I went by one to the right, +which is easy enough, and the descent from which is much better adapted +for camels than the made road, which is very steep, with two sharp turns, +but soft. The descent thence is gradual, down one of the ordinary +ravines, well clothed with the usual shrubs and Xanthoxylon: our camels +were a good deal fagged, but more from the halt at the pass, where some +cathartic plant abounds and weakens them very much, than fatigue. The +view from the top of the pass is very extensive: the plains are seen to +have nearly the same level, and are divided here and there very +frequently to north-east and north, by the ordinary mountains. + +_14th_.--Halt; water here is not abundant, and is obtained from driblets +and pools; around these, the surface is covered with a rich sward, which +affords fine fodder for a small number of horses. In the swampy spots, +_Beccabunga_, Anagallis, Mentha, Carex, Glaux, apparently identical (so +far as a memory of 7 years may be trusted,) with the English plant, the +small variety of Leontodon, Medicaginoides, Phleum, and the very small +Amaranthoid, Polygonea, occur. + +The hills around Chokey, and below it are rounded, those towards the pass +being more steep. They are covered with Centaurea fruticosa, and C. +spinosa, a favourite food of camels when it has young shoots, Santonica, +Statice, all of which grow precisely as before, Boragineae, Compositae, +Labiatae, and Papilionaceae, are the predominant forms, and mostly of the +same type: I observe a tendency among Boragineae to have cup-shaped nuts. +Generally speaking, the plants are the same as those before found. Rheas, +Papaver, Glaucium purpureum, especially the two last are common, Labiata +salvoides, Iris persica, and crocifolia (rare), Trichonema, Gentiana, +Alyssoides. + +The novelties were Rheum, Silena fruticosa, Linaria, Ruta, Astragalina, 2 +small Silenaceae, Iris, Glaucium aureo-croceum, a beautiful Boragineae +with cup-shaped nut, Lotoides, an Hippophaoid looking shrub, Scrophularia +sp. singulous, Malthioloids spiralis, Allium, Glaux, Nitella, etc. (See +Catalogue 482 to 516.) Graminea very common, Rottboellia and +Anthistiria, 2 curious forms, the other more northern, Umbelliferae +common, Nari much less so than on the south face. + +The vegetation of the summit which is nearly 7,000 feet, and of peaks +which rise 600 to 700 feet above the pass, has no change, except the +abundance of Cruciferae and Muscoides; Cerasus is the chief shrub; +Thymelaeus frutex occurs at 6,500 feet. The prevailing rock is clay +slate. + +_16th_.--Marched to Dund-i-Golai, distance fifteen miles, we first +descended gradually to the plain, and then traversed this until we +skirted some low hills, about one and a half mile, from which a pool of +water was situated, where we halted, and which was fed by a small cut +coming from some distance. The road was very good throughout, the water- +cuts although not unfrequent, being either shallow or skirting the left +of the road. The vegetation continued the same as about Chokey, until +the plains were reached, but the prickly shrub, habitu Berberidioides, +became more common in the water-cuts below than I had seen it before, +while Santonia, Centaurea spinosa, and the plants of Chokey, disappeared +as we reached the plain, except some few herbaceous forms, which +continued throughout. I was much indisposed during this march, and for +the time we halted at Dund-i-Golai, a period of four days, was unable to +go out, but Capt. Sanders and my people brought me many novelties, which +I have not yet noted down. The chief vegetation of the plain is Salsola +tertia, the surface is level and firm, clothed with scattered Salsola and +a few stunted herbaceous plants, among which a yellow Centaureoid, a +Crucifera siliquis junioribus clavati 4-gonis, were the most common, +there was also a curious Thiscoid looking plant. A considerable change +commenced about the low hills, a Thymelaeus shrub, some curious grasses, +an Erodium, a Santonica, occupying the places of the former shrubs, and +Dipsacus or Scabiosa becoming very common. The height of this place is +about 4,040 feet, the climate most variable. Fahr. thermometer 48 +degrees to 105 degrees in single roofed tents. No cultivation seen, a +pool of water is situated near the hill, and a little is reported as +situated half-way between this place and Chokey, this however I did not +see. The country is much parched up, and bears every appearance of +always having been so; no remains of tanks, villages, etc. visible. +Painted partridges were seen; and the eggs of a large bird like a plover? +The wind inclining to be hot, but it is cool up to 7.5 or 8 A.M. + +Alaudo cristata? and an Alauda with the form of Sylvia. + +_Sunday_, _21st_.--Proceeded to Killa Pootoollah, a distance of ten +miles. The road was good over an open, dry, level country, but +intersected with small cuts: some cultivation was passed, but no +villages. Some little improvement was observed close to the Garrah +hills, which are of the usual description, and of no great height: a +curious slip of the strata exhibited itself, in which the upper strata +are cut away in the centre as if there had been a watercourse there. +Vegetation continues the same. The Thymelaeous shrub and Iris, still +occur in sandy spots, Allium and a second species; Centaureoides, yellow +and pink, Thesioides, a curious sand-binding grass, Salsola tertia most +common, and in some open firm places _Joussa_ reappears as it did at Dund- +i-Golai: Anthemis occurs, Rheas, Salvioides in stony places, otherwise +few of the plants of the Pisheen side are seen; grapes abundant about old +and new cultivation, Hordeum, Bromus several species, Triticoides, etc., +in profusion. Passed a deep well of considerable diameter, which had an +open communication with a widish and deep canal, the only place I have +seen that would hold a good deal of water; it was cut throughout in +shingle, and was perhaps fifty feet in its deepest part. + +_22nd_.--Left Pootoollah for Mailmandah, and on our arrival found some of +the troops and the cavalry had passed through and made a double march to +the river Lora, a distance in all of twenty-four miles. There is a good +deal of pure water at Mailmandah running in a cut by the side of that, +which is in the rains a considerable stream, also one or two _Kabreezes_ +about two miles further on, producing excellent water. The road first +led up a ravine of some width, and swardy, and then over low hills, until +we surmounted these to descend into the valley in which part of the army +halted. The country continues mostly the same; although if possible it +is still more barren than before: the mountains generally are more +rugged: the ridges frequently toothed, and the sides precipitous; not a +tree to be seen except a willow near some water, and a small arbusculoid +fig. After passing the halting place we re-ascended an inclined plane, +entered a gorge, and again issued out of it: after a short time again we +entered into another valley drained by an actual river, _really_ +_containing water_, and bounded to the west and north-west by curious +red low hills, not unlike an embankment. The vegetation continues much +the same: Salsola tertia very common in some sandy places, Centaurea +spinosa, Statice, Santonia, etc. re-assuming their places on all gravelly +slopes: some novelties occurred as (See Catalogue, Nos. 543 to 574 +inclusive,) one or two new shrubs, Cytisus, etc. The heat continues +great; 102 degrees Fahr. in tents in the middle of the day. We encamped +on a flat ground about 200 yards from the river, which contains a good +deal of water, and has a sluggish stream running to the north, surrounded +by mountains, none of any height. Wheat cultivation, Arundo, Vitex, +Prunus or Cerasus abundant in the pass to the river, and yet the former +does not indicate water as it ought to do, Lycium, Tamarisk, Arundo on +the banks of the river, and Tamarisk in profusion in its bed. + +The cultivation on the opposite side of the river is remarkably clear of +weeds, as compared with the cultivation at Quettah, etc. Achilleoides, +Veronica, Iris crocifolia, Phalaris, Chenopodium, Rottboellioides, +Hordeum vulgare, being the only or the chief plants cultivated. + +Proceeded next to Dai Hap, thirteen miles, over a similar but even more +barren country, the hills being destitute of all vegetation, except a few +stunted small shrubs, such as Statice. The usual plants recur with +shingle and in sand, the chief is a _Santonica_, {349} a few novelties +occurred, among which is a curious plant, with large vesiculate petaloid +connectiva. See Catalogue, No. 576, et sequent. + +The hills continue with toothed ridges, near Dai Hap, where water is +abundant, but not in the form of a river. Thymelaea occurs in abundance, +with a Mimosea fruticosa humilis: a curious hairy-fruited Polygonum et +Peganum, is among the most common plants. + +_25th_.--To Khoshab, distance twelve miles, over a large level plain, +either sandy, and then generally cultivated, or gravelly, and then +uncultivated: road open: passed two dry beds of rivers: one must be of +large size, but is very shallow. A new Tamarisk occurs along it; no +trees are visible until we approach Candahar: vegetation continues much +the same. _Santonica_, (see above) Centaurea spinosa, Astragalina +(Ononoides recurs), Staticoid, Asphodelus, Mesembryanthoid, Peganum, are +the chief plants, especially on gravel; most of the small Cruciferae have +disappeared, Labiata-Salvioides continues; a curious subaphyllous +Composita occurs, Iris persica is not uncommon; another Iris is found +here and there in profusion, with Gnidia in sandy spots, Compositae, +Monocotyledons of Abigoon are common in shingle. New rock pigeons. Fine +madder cultivation in _khets_. Of birds the yellow hammer occurs. +Villages numerous, poor, and though built of mud and straw yet present +abundance of small domes. + +In these dry hot plains the prevailing wind is westerly, blowing very +strong in the heat of the day, and having a tendency to become hot: the +thermometer is here 98 degrees. The cultivation of wheat is very general +around our present encampment which is within four miles of Candahar, the +wheat is fine; Lolioides occurs in it. + +_26th_.--Halted: Candahar is hid from us by some low hills, on the +surmounting of which a large straggling place is obscurely visible, +interspersed with trees, the valley is much smaller than that in which we +are now, which is very extensive. Munjit cultivation is conducted by +deep trenches, it is a different species I think from that of the +Himalayas. The bed of the Turnuk is now dry and very shallow: and the +hills near us are extremely barren, the chief vegetation being +Paederioides vestila and Staticoides cymosa, Cheiranthus continues. The +vegetation is very poor as indeed it has been since leaving the Khojeb +Amrah, nor is there any appearance to be seen of a better autumnal +vegetation. + +Candahar is visible at a distance of six miles, from some low hills to +the north of our camp. + +_27th_.--Moved to Candahar, skirting the low hills just mentioned and +passed through two villages, a mile from Candahar in a fine open plain. + +Candahar has rather a pleasing aspect; it is situated close to a +picturesque range of hills, and is well diversified with trees, barley +and wheat fields. The slope on which the town stands is a parallelogram; +towers occur frequently along the wall, which is however, of mud, and not +strong; it is surrounded by a ditch utterly insignificant on account of +its narrowness and shelving banks, this ditch is crossed by an +insignificant causeway. The gate at which I entered is oblique, and is +defended by a tower: it leads into the main street which is rather wide +and not very dirty: towards the centre of this you pass under a middling +dome, a street branching off to the right and left; the continuation of +the main street or bazar leads to the _topekhanah_, or artillery ground, +a small space quite disorderly, containing eight or ten guns, most of +them melted at the mouth; one Sheik 18-pounder of cast iron, another of +English make, 140 years old. From the end of this space you pass over +another similar ditch into the fort, the entrance to which is covered, +affording two or three angles capable of good hand to hand defence. +Passing thence through some spaces occupied by low buildings, you reach +Khoondil Khan's house, an extremely rude looking place outside, but very +different within. It consists of two houses, one looking into a small +square with a delicious reservoir of water, and some fine and very green +mulberry trees; the ground being laid out as a garden with sweet-william, +etc.; the water is supplied by a small cut, and is seven or eight feet +deep. The garden fronts of both houses are prettily ornamented, one has +a _tharkhanah_, delightfully cool; generally the rooms are small, coated +with a pretty sort of stucco. The remaining sides of the square are +occupied by offices; small rooms opening into the garden by lattice work +evidently denote a portion of the _zenana_. Altogether the Khan must be +a man of taste. + +The bazars of the city are well thronged, but the shops are by no means +equal to those of Buhawulpoor, and the manufactures, except those of +earthenware, are utterly insignificant. + +Tobacco, _atta_, _musallahs_, dried fruits, _aloo-bokhara_, figs, +apricots, raisins, salt, sugar, a green fruit something between a plum +and greengage, meat, onions, salads, _dhie_, _sherbets_, _kubabs_, wicker- +work, singing birds, are offered for sale: also abundance of Lucerne and +some _bhoosee_. Altogether it is a busy place, but not so busy as the +road near the gate, which is thronged by followers, and dismounted +Europeans, who are forbidden access to the city without a pass. Tea from +Khiva of good quality is procurable in small quantities. No women but +old ones to be seen. The dress of the inhabitants very often, and in +some cases very completely, approximates to that of the Chinese. The +features too of most are evidently of Tartar cast, and some wear two +tails of plaited hair. Blue seems to be a favourite colour of dress. + +The chief trees about the city are mulberry, a few _Khunjucks_, which is +the Xanthoxylon of Bootan and the Kojhlak passes, occur outside; willows +are frequent, and generally appear to be cultivated, among these a +weeping species here and there occurs. + +_May 3rd_.--The resources of the city are evidently small, the only +things indeed that appear plentiful are earthenware and milk: grain is +excessively dear, but is reported to exist in considerable quantities. +Khoondil Khan having ordered all those out of the city, who had not +provided themselves with six months' provisions. _Atta_ or flour is now +selling at two seers a rupee, or 6d per pound, and every thing is +proportionally dear: wood excessively so, the chief fuel is derived from +the _Santonia_, which in some form or other appears to constitute a +principal feature of the vegetation of Central Asia, and there is some +other wood apparently derived from some tree I have not yet seen. + +Some discontent prevails in the town owing to the high price of +provisions, which is, no doubt, severely felt. The established price of +grain is at the rate of eight seers the rupee, a rate established by the +king, but on occasions like the present there can be no rule. Water is +very abundant, it is to be found within four feet of the surface, and +some regiments have already supplied themselves from this source by means +of temporary wells. The water is excellent. + +Asses, ponies, and horses are common, the former are excellent, 150 +rupees is a good price for one; they carry heavy loads with the +additional weight of an Affghan on their back; the ponies or tattoes are +less valuable, but still they are strong. + +The horses are indifferent; good, generally speaking, but heavy, and with +little spirit. Excellent milch cows have been procured for twenty-five +rupees, including the calf. Goats are not easily procurable. Sheep +(_Doombas_) are common, and afford excellent mutton, they vary in price +from two to three rupees. + +Tea from Bokhara is procurable in small quantities; its quality is +decent: it was originally eight rupees a seer but is now thirty. Coarse +Russian cloths, and very inferior silks are also procurable. + +The great drawbacks are the want of wood, and above all want of +inhabitants; from what I have seen of the cultivation, the soil appears +to be very capable, and well adapted to barley and wheat; rice might also +be raised as a summer crop. With regard to water, if there is a scarcity +of this element, it is due to the indolence of the people. I have not +yet seen any vestiges of buildings, topes, etc. to indicate that Candahar +has ever been a very populous place, the want of trees considering the +ease with which they may be cultivated, is a strong evidence of the +extreme laziness of the Affghans, who appear to me remarkably low in the +scale of civilization; and in personal habits, very generally +inexpressibly filthy. + +Poplars, mulberries, and willows are the principal trees: the poplar is +very much akin to the _Sofaida_ of the Sutledge, it is a handsome tree, +with a fine roundish crown. The fruit trees generally appear small in +gardens; lettuces and onions are commonly cultivated, especially the +latter, fields of Lucerne are very abundant, and I believe clover also; a +pony load of the former now costs five annas, but it is sufficient for a +day's consumption of two or three horses. The pomegranate attains the +ordinary size. In gardens two or three Ranunculaceae, Jasminum, pinks, +sweet-williams, marigolds, stocks, and wall-flowers, are common, with a +broad-leaved species of flag, the flowers of which I have not seen. + +The crops vary according to the mode in which they have been watered; if +this has been properly done, they are rich. Some of the fields are +tolerably clean, others filled with weeds, among which a Dipsacea, and +one or two Centaureae are very common. + +The villages are not generally defended: each house has its own +straggling direction, is built of mud, and the roof is generally dome- +shaped, and it has its own enclosure within a mud-wall. The houses are +very low, and indicate poverty, and want of ingenuity. The better order +appear always with arched roofs, and none are without picturesque ribs +and recesses. + +The vineries here are so well enclosed, that there is no way of access +except by scaling the mud-wall: the vines are planted in trenches; a row +on each side, and allowed to run over the elevated spaces between the +trenches. In one garden pomegranates, a pomaceous tree, and mulberries, +whose fruit is now ripe but quite devoid of flavour, occurred. A +Zygophyllum, a beautiful Capparis, an Anthemis, Marrubium, Centaureoides +2, occurred as weeds, with Plantago, Phalaris, Cichorium. + +For an excellent register of the thermometer at this place, I am indebted +to the kindness of Dr. Henderson; the range in the open air is from 60 +degrees to 110 degrees!!! + +The variations in the wet bulb are due to the currents of air, which +beginning about 11 A.M., pass into a rather constant strongish west wind +about 11.5 or 2 P.M., and even almost become hot. The climate is +excessively dry, as indicated by the effects it has on furniture, etc. + +The difference of temperature between a tent, even with two flies or +double roof, and the open air in free situations, is by no means great; +thus when the thermometer was 105 degrees in part of my tent, it was +scarcely 110 degrees in the sun; in Capt. Thomson's large tent 102 +degrees; placed against the outer _kunnat_, it rose to 105 degrees. +Hanging free with black cloth round the bulb, 112 degrees. But to shew +the great heating powers of the sun, the thermometer with the bulb, +placed on the ground and covered with the loose sand of the surface of +the soil, rose to 141 degrees. + +Black partridges occur in the cornfields here, but in no great numbers. +Much of the cultivation of barley, wheat, and rye, is very luxuriant, but +the proportion of waste, to cultivated land is too considerable to argue +either a large population or active agricultural habits. Pastor roseus +occurs in flocks; it is evidently nearly allied to the _mina_. The +capabilities of this valley are considerable, more particularly when the +extreme readiness with which water is obtained in wells is considered, as +well as the nature of the soil, which is well adapted to husbandry. +Candahar, viewed from about a mile to the west of our camp, backed by the +picturesque hills (one bluff one in particular), the numbers and verdure +of the trees, the break in the mountains on the Herat road, presents a +pretty scene. + +_8th_.--The installation of the Shah, which took place to-day on the +plain to the north of the city, was a spectacle worth seeing on account +of the grand display of troops; but there were very few of the +inhabitants of Candahar or surrounding villages present. Mulberries and +apricots are now ripening. Rats, a Viverra with a long body and short +legs, tawny with brown patches, face broad, blackish-brown, white band +across the forehead, and white margins to the ears which are large; +storks were seen when alarmed. Pastor roseus occurs in flocks; magpies, +swallows, swifts, and starlings. There is a garden with some religious +buildings, to which an avenue of young trees leads in a north-east +direction from one of the Cabul gates, for there are two on this face. +The buildings are not remarkable; nor are the trees, which are small; a +few planes (Platanus) occur, the most common is the _Benowsh_, a species +of ash, (Fraxinus) of no great size or beauty. The elegant palmate +leaved Pomacea likewise occurs, with the mulberry: the marigold is a +great favourite. + +The fields are now ripening, this being the harvest-moon. Wild oats +occur commonly, although they are not made any use of; the seed is large, +and ripens sooner than any of the others; from the size of the +uncultivated specimens, I am sure that oats would form an excellent crop. + +In the fields Cichorium is very common, and Carduacea, Centaurea cyanea, +Dipsaceae, and in certain low places an Arundo, are the most common +weeds; two or three Silenaceae, and Umbelliferae also occur. In the +ditches Typha, Butomus, watercresses, Alomioides, Ceratophyllum, Lemna +_gibba_? Confervae, Gramineae two or three, Ranunculus, Potamogeton, one +species immersa; Mentha, Sium. + +On the _Chummuns_, which are of no extent, but which are pleasing from +their verdure and soft sward chiefly consisting of Carex, Trifolium, +Juncus rigidus, Santalacea, and Gentiana likewise prevail. + +The fields of Lucerne are luxuriant, but require much water, the price of +which is very dear; one ass-load costs eight annas!! + +Iris crocifolia is common in old cultivations. + +The city is situated at the termination of one of the shingly slopes, +which are universal between the bases of the hills, and the cultivated +portion of the valley. The ditch is hence shingly, whereas an equal +depth in the cultivated parts would meet nothing but a sandy, light, +easily pulverizable brownish-yellow soil, tenacious, and very slippery +when wet. The tobacco crop is excellent. + + + +CHAPTER XV. + + +_Candahar to Cabul_. + +The good old _Moolla_ of a mosque, to which we resort daily, gives me the +following information about the vegetable products of this country, from +which it would seem, that every thing not producing food, is looked upon +with contempt. The fruit trees, are-- + +1. _Sha-aloo_, _Aloo-bookhara_, (damson), which has ripe fruit in +August, the same time as figs; _Zurd-aloo_, (apricot), +_Aloocha_--apricot, _Shuft-aloo_, another kind of apricot; _Unar_, +(pomegranate); _Ungoor_, (grapes); _Unjeer_, (guava); _Bihee_, (figs); +_Umroot_, _Toot_, (mulberry); _Aloogoordaigoo_, _Shuft-aloo_, all these +_Aloos_ being Pomaceous. + +The Elaeagnus is called Sinjit: it produces a small red fruit, used in +medicine as an astringent, it ripens in August, and sells at eight or +nine seers the rupee; it is exported in small quantities; but the plant +is not much esteemed. + +The _Munjit_ is an article of much consequence; it is exported chiefly to +China and Bombay, some goes to Persia; the roots are occasionally dug up +after two years, but the better practise is to allow them five to seven: +the price is six Hindostanee maunds for a rupee. The herb is used for +camel fodder. The Affghan name is _Dlwurrung_. + +The common Artemisia of this place is called _Turk_; the camels are not +so fond of it, as they were of the Sinab and Quettah sort; perhaps this +is due to their preferring Joussa, which is found in abundance. + +The carrot is called _Zurduk_; it is dug in the cold months, and sown in +July; three seers are sold for a pice: both men and cattle use it. + +_Turbooj_, (watermelon,) ripens in June; it is not watered after +springing up; four seers are sold for a pice. But I have not seen much +of this fruit. + +The wheat is watered according to the quality of the soil, the better the +soil the less water is required, and this varies from four to eight +repetitions of water. _Jhow_ requires two waterings less. Wheat is +considered dear if less than one maund is sold for the rupee. One year +ago, three maunds of barley, and four of wheat were sold for a rupee. + +Iris odora, _Soosumbur_; (the two kinds, and _Datura_ has the same name) +is indigenous. + +The timber trees, or rather trees not producing fruit, and which the +_Moolla_ thinks very lightly of, are the _Chenar_, (plane), _Pudda_, +(Poplar?), Baid, _Sofaida_. + +The fig trees are often planted in rows, they are very umbrageous, and +look very healthy. These, and the mulberry, are the most common; next +are the bullace and damson. Neither are worth introducing to India, nor +have I seen any thing yet in the country that is so. + +It is certainly the interest of the inhabitants to keep the army here as +long as our commissariat places so many rupees in their hands. It may +indeed be questionable whether with an overpowering army, the rates paid +for grain and other supplies for the troops should not be established by +authority rather than advancing money for grain at exorbitant rates, when +the crops are entirely within the command of foraging parties. _Atta_ +now sells at two and three-quarter seers the rupee, a mere nominal fall, +for the dealers will only give fifteen annas for a Company's rupee. + +There is a curious _hazy_ appearance of the atmosphere over the city in +the evening, occasioned by fine dusty particles from cattle, suspended in +air; which, from their fineness, are long in subsiding. + +This curious hazy weather increases daily, yesterday evening was very +cloudy, and this morning the wind rather strong and southerly up to 8 +A.M.: and at 5.5 P.M. the sun is either quite obscured, or the light so +diminished, that the eye rests without inconvenience on his image. In +the morning the wind strengthens as the sun attains height and power. + +The old _Moolla_ says that this weather commences in Khorassan with the +setting in of the periodical rains in the north-western provinces of +India, and continues with them. From the direction of the wind it is +probably connected with the commencement of the south-west monsoon at +Bombay, for the rains at Delhi do not commence before June. + +The haze is so strong at times that hills within three to five miles are +quite obscured; it tends to diminish the temperature considerably, +especially between seven and eight of a morning; curious gusts of hot +winds are observed, even when the general nature of the wind is cool. + +_21st_.--A fine and clear cold morning; thermometer 56 degrees at 7 A.M. +in the tent. Air fresh; thermometer 75 degrees at 9 P.M. A few drops of +rain at 12; _cloudy generally_. + +_22nd_.--Thermometer 48 degrees at 5 A.M. Similar weather, clear and +elastic: south winds continue but of less strength. + +Easterly wind prevails in the morning up to 9 A.M., after which hour the +westerly hot wind, variable in strength, sets in: the range of the +thermometer is then somewhat increased, although in the house it does not +rise above 90 degrees. + +The _Moolla_ tells me, that snow is of rare occurrence at Candahar; he +mentions one fall in about four or five years. The rains last for three +months, and happen in winter. During the winter all occupations out of +doors are suspended, and people wrap themselves up, and sit over fires. + +Clouds are of very rare occurrence, and then only partial. + +The clouds, if resulting from the south-west monsoon, ought to be +intercepted by the Paropamisus and Hindoo Koosh, and rain ought to fall +along these and about Ghuznee at this time. In the evening a cool wind +sets in, indicating a fall of rain somewhere. + +Rarity of dews in Khorassan: as dews depend on a certain amount of +moisture either in the soil or atmosphere, it follows that in a very dry +climate no dews will occur. The occurrence of the dews here at this +period, is another proof that rain must have fallen somewhere (to the +southward), to which the coolness of the weather is attributable. +Yesterday and to-day, the thermometer at 5 A.M. stood at 48 degrees, 49 +degrees; at 8 P.M. 75 degrees, 72 degrees, the daily range in the mosque +is from 70 degrees to 80 degrees. Capt. Thomson suggests that the dews +observed here are either confined to, or much greater in the _Chummuns_, +in which the water is very close to the surface, as indicated _inter_ +_alia_ by the green turf. + +The kinds of grapes are numerous; those earliest ripe are the black, and +a small red kind called _Roucha_; which will be ripe in the latter end of +this moon. _Kismiss_ another sort, comes in July. The _Tahibee_ is the +best kind produced here, and the dearest. + +Tobacco is cultivated chiefly along the Arghandab; it is planted about +this season, and gathered in two or three months, and requires to be +watered ten or twelve times. + +The barley is now fully ripe, and is generally cut and thrashed in some +places. Pears in gardens are now ripe. + +Candahar valley is of great extent to the westward, or south-west and +SSW. + +The wasps, with large femora, I observe build their mud nests in houses. +The rarity of Lepidoptera, except perhaps some nocturnal moths, is +curious; Coleoptera are more common, but inconspicuous. Ants are +abundant in the mud walls. A small gnat with large noiseless wings, is +very annoying, and the bite very painful and irritating. Doves, and wild +pigeons are tolerably common, as also crested larks, and swifts. +Abundance of lizards; a venomous snake of brown colour, having an +abruptly attenuated tail. + +Every thing that happens shows how credulous, and how unenquiring we are; +and in all cases out of our particular sphere, how extremely apt most are +to give excessive credit, where a moderate only is due. It is a generous +failing which it is difficult to condemn, particularly with regard to our +travellers in this direction. Instance Connolly, and certainly Gerard +whose acquaintance with Burnes and its results demands attention. It is +singular that his name scarcely occurs in Burnes' book, although his +scientific knowledge and MSS. submitted to Government, entitle him to be +considered an observant, and well-informed traveller. Pottinger is +another instance of what I have said above. + +The general opinion is, and it is one which I have not discarded +entirely, that he threw himself into Herat, that he was throughout the +siege daily employed in the front of the garrison, and that it is owing +to his personal exertions that Herat was saved. I hear however on good +authority that he was at Herat accidentally, and wished to leave it when +the besiegers appeared, but was prevented by want of funds. So anxious +was he however to get away, as his leave of absence had expired, that he +was obliged to discover himself to Yar Mahommed, and request loans to +enable him to rejoin India. The Vizier at once secured him, took him to +Kamran, and hindered him from leaving, forcing him indeed to the +dangerous elevation of British Agent at Herat. His merits, if this be +true, rest on very different grounds from those generally supposed; his +courage however has been proved of a high moral cast. + +The _Joussa_, the _Moolla_ tells me, is the _Kan Shootur_ or _Shootur_ +_Kan_. Burnes' account of the _Turunjbeen_ or manna is correct, except +perhaps in the limits he assigns to its production. It is at any rate +produced here and sold in the bazar, its production while the plant is in +flower is curious, and worthy of examination; it may however be deposited +by an insect, in which case the probable period of its production would +be that of inflorescence. + +There is some cultivation of Indian corn here, the plants have now +attained one-third of their growth. + +Except in the immediate vicinity of the town, nothing can exceed the +sterility of the valley, or rather its desolation: scarcely a plant, +beyond the Peganum and _Joussa_, is to be found. + +_Khaisee_, an excellent smooth skinned apricot, is now ripe, and is of +light yellowish colour, sometimes faintly spotted; it is a product from +grafts, the seeds are useless, as they do not continue the good qualities +of the fruit: it is here grafted on _zurd-aloo_, _thulk_, Potentilla +quinquefolia. + +Melons and grapes are now coming in; the former, at least those I have +seen, have pale pulp, and are not superior. The grapes first ripe are +the ordinary black sort: we tasted yesterday some very good ones in the +_Moolla's_ garden. The _Kismiss_ are especially delicate, and another +large sort of very fine rich flavour, both were rather unripe. Those for +packing are still unripe. The trenches in this garden are very deep: the +vines are planted on the northern face only. + +Gardens are very common to the south-west of the town. The valley of the +Arghandab is the most fertile part of Khorassan I have yet seen. A strip +of cultivation extends along the banks of the river, and from these last +not being high, the stream is easily diverted into channels for +irrigation. Seen from any of the neighbouring hills, the valley presents +one uniform belt of verdure, almost as far as the eye can reach, and the +view up and down is of some extent. The chief cultivation is wheat, +barley, and lucerne; _Chummuns_ also occur. Gardens abound, together +with fine groves of mulberry trees, the former are walled in, and are +verdant to a degree. + +There is a bluff mountain to the north of Candahar, the disintegration of +which is so rapid, that it is evident from the slope of the debris, it +will in time bury the original structures. + +The hills forming the ridge separating Arghandab from Candahar, as well +as all those rugged looking ones about Candahar, are of limestone, they +are much worn by the weather, and full of holes. They are very barren, +the only shrubby vegetation of any size being Ficus, which may be the +stock of the _Ungoor_, as it resembles it a good deal, Centaurea spinosa, +Paederiae 2, Echinops, Pommereulla, one to two, other Graminae, lemon- +grass, Dianthus, Peganum, Cheiranthus as before, Sedum rosaceum, +Gnaphalium, _Hyoceyamus_, _Didymocarpeae_, Gnidia, etc. + +The Arghandab is a good sized river, with channel subdivided: its stream +is rapid and fordable; no large boulders occur in its bed; the +temperature of its water is moderate. + +The fish are a Cyprinus and a Barbus, or Oreinus with small scales, thick +leathery mouth, and cirrhi; a Loach of largish size, flat head, reddish, +with conspicuous brownish mottlings, and a Silurus. + +The hills forming the northern boundary of the valley are picturesque, +and of several series, and perhaps the subordinate valleys are not so +large and fruitful in this direction. + +Between Arghandab and Candahar, two ranges occur; one interrupted: the +other nearer Candahar has first to be surmounted at a low pass; the pass +is short, rugged and impassable for guns. The inner ridge is much closer +to the cultivated part of the valley than the northern range. + +Between it and the Arghandab, at least six cuts occur: these are met with +generally in threes, and are at different elevations; the inner one being +close at the foot of the hills; great labour must have been required to +make them. Numerous villages, some with flat roofed houses occur. + +Arundo, Salsola, Plantago, P. coronopoid, Cnicus, Juncus, Veronica +exallata, Santalacea, Mentha, Lactucoides, Chenopod. 2-3, Panicum, +Samolus, Ceratophyllum; Salix occurs near the river; apricots, apples, +pomegranates, damsons or plums, bullaces, pears, mulberries and +raspberries in the gardens. + +The shingle found about all the hills in Khorassan, can scarcely be +derived from any source but disintegration, it slopes too gradually and +uniformly for upheavement. If my idea is correct, the mountains will at +some period be buried in their own debris, of course inspection of the +shingle will at once point out whether this is true or not, more +especially _in all those places where the rocks are of_ +_uniform structure_. There is a curious desert to the south and +southwest of Candahar, elevated a good deal above the valley, quite bare, +and stretching a long way to the westward: it is seen for forty miles +along the Girishk road. + +_Curious reflection_.--Observed in ghee used as lamp-oil, a bubble +ascending from the surface of the water on which it floated, met by +another descending; the deception of this is perfect. That it is due to +reflection, is apparent from the variation of the length of the descent, +according to the angle under which it is viewed. When viewed from +beneath at a very oblique angle, the descent is complete, but if viewed +parallel to the surface, no appearance of the sort occurs. The +reflection is due to the surface of the ghee which appears to be more +dense than the rest, probably more oily; this mathematical reflection may +suggest others of a moral nature, touching our liability to mistaken +views of things, from observing only one side. + +Old Candahar is about three miles to west of the new town; it is +immediately under a steep limestone range, running about southwest, and +not exceeding 500 feet in height. It bears marks of having been +fortified, and at either extremity remains of forts are still visible. +The fort of forty steps is at the north end of the range. The town is in +complete ruins; indeed none of the edifices are visible except those that +occupy the mound of stones, (with which they are partly built) probably +the site of the citadel. On three sides, the town is fenced by two +respectable ditches, the outer one about 50 yards wide; both are now, +especially the outer, beds of marshes; they were supplied by cuts from +the Arghandab river. Wells exist however. There is one white mosque in +good preservation. The works were strong, and much better than the very +indifferent ones of new Candahar; and the walls of the town were +prolonged up the face of the hills. + +About Candahar, conical houses occur, probably for granaries. A curious +mosque cut out of the rock in situ, is seen on the Girishk road, with a +flight of steps leading to it, cut in like manner out of the rock. There +is also in the same quarter the fort of Chuhulzeenat, or forty steps; a +work not of very considerable extent; and as in other Asiatic countries I +have visited, troughs are cut in rocks for separating grain from the +husk. But there is no work to be seen indicating vast labour or any +genius. + +Some remains of good pottery may be picked up; and the earth of which the +works, etc. were made, is filled with remains of coarse pottery. + +_27th_.--Moved four miles to Shorundab, the country is very barren: not +much _Joussa_: the water is brackish at our present encampment, which is +within sight of Babawallee. + +_28th_.--Proceeded to Kileeyazim, ten and a quarter miles, marched at 2 +P.M. and reached the place at 6 P.M., the camels arriving one hour +afterwards: the ground is generally good, throughout stony, difficult in +places and undulated, particularly in two situations occasioned from +cuts. There is a square fort, situated at the halting place with a tower +at each corner, and on north face two; as well as towers at the gate: but +without windows. _Joussa_ is abundant, as also grass along the cuts. +Salsola rotundifolia, a Chenopodia, and a curious prickly, leafless +Composita and _Joussa_ occur, the latter most common, Artemisiae sp. Also +rock pigeons and the raven. Halted one mile to the east of the fort. + +_29th_.--Proceeded to the Turnuk, near Khet-i-Ahkoond, distance fifteen +and a half miles. The country continues the same, no cultivation to be +seen before reaching the Turnuk. The road tolerable, over gravelly or +shingly ground: it was at first level, until we reached a mountain gorge, +when it became undulated. Passed the dry beds of two streams, the second +the larger: its banks were clothed with Vitex instead of Tamarisk. At +the entrance of gorge a fort similar to that of yesterday was passed. +Scarcely any change in vegetation. Artemisiae one or two, Centaurea +spinosa, Salsola cordifolia and aphylla? are the most common plants, +Euonymus and Malpighiacea? Polygonoides, occurred along the nullah, a +pretty species of the plant, Antheris globosis petaloideo-terminalis, in +profusion in some places, literally colouring the ground: close to it +another very distinct species, foliis connatis, floribus albis, a +Rubiaceous crystalline looking plant, another novelty; all the plants +about the hills at Candahar continue: Dianthoid, Statice, Paederia +villosa. Cultivation along the Turnuk, melons in small trenches, the +crops are now cut, _Jhow_ or _gaz_ along the bank: but there is not much +water. The hills around are apparently of limestone, very picturesque, +and presenting very fine cliffs. The valley of the Turnuk is here very +narrow, and the country very arid looking, completely burnt up. _Joussa_ +rather scarce, _doob_ grass occurs along the river, the water of which is +discoloured. + +_30th_.--Proceeded to Shair-i-Suffa, ten miles and six furlongs. The +country continues the same. The road extending along the right bank of +the Turnuk, over undulating ground for one and a half or two miles, is +bad, very narrow, and overhanging the steep bank of the river, scarcely +passable for wheel carriages without preparation. Vegetation continues +precisely the same: little verdure to be seen even along the Turnuk: the +hills desperately barren; a high mound occurs in middle of the valley +near our halting place, well adapted for a fort, but unoccupied. Small +fields of cultivation are now seen. A small species of mullet occurs in +the river: thermometer 101 degrees at 1 P.M. in the tent. + +Nothing can exceed the barren aspect of this valley, which is near Khet-i- +Ahkoond, but at several miles distance, a few trees are visible in nooks: +the only green along the banks of the river, is occasioned apparently by +Tamarisk: the hills are picturesque, rugged, varied with bold cliffs, the +valleys are changed in structure, being now occupied by rounded undulated +ground, instead of hollow basins. + +[River Turnuk banks: m363.jpg] + +_July 1st_.--Proceeded ten miles, and halted on the Turnuk within one +mile of the tower of Tirandaz. The country continues precisely the same: +the road at first is bad, owing to the inhabitants having tried to flood +it. At a distance of six miles we ascended a small defile without any +difficulty; the remainder of the march being over undulating stony +ground: the valley then becomes narrow, and we again enter into the +arable part, which is especially narrow. The hills present the same +aspect. _Joussa_ very abundant, and also Artemisia, and a Salsoloides +flore ochroleuco. No villages are visible. We are unable to judge of +the extent of cultivation, because the country, which seems uniformly +dried up, is rugged and bouldery: on the right is the old bed of the +river, consisting of dry sand. We crossed one small nullah, when an old +fort became visible on a hill, in the centre of the valley. + +_2nd_.--Proceeded to Toot, a distance of eleven miles, through a similar +country; the road dividing at the low hills approaching the river and +forming its banks, which are in places precipitous; the greater part of +the difficulties were avoided by taking the lower route, that along the +hills being impassable for guns owing to the large rocks scattered in +every direction, and detached from conglomerate hills. Two or three +nullahs were passed, one with a little water. The ground was besides a +good deal cut up towards the centre of the valley, and a water-cut was +crossed several times. Owing to the delay in making the road, the troops +did not reach the encamping ground before 8 or 8.5 P.M., the camels in +some instances not before 12 P.M. An attack is reported to have been +made on the baggage at the river where the road ascends the cliff: it was +prevented by a party of the 13th, who shot two of the marauders. _Joussa_ +is plentiful, and Mentha in flower. + +The Turnuk river is 20 feet broad, the current rapid, and the water +discoloured; the banks are sandy, 15 feet high: coarse grass, Clematis +scandens fol. ternatisectis pinnatis. _Jhow_ is abundant. + +_3rd_.--From Toot to ----, nine miles and four furlongs. Road decent, +over the usual sort of ground, except in one place, where the bank +approaches the river; this defile is much shorter and much easier than +that at Tirandaz or rather Jillongeer: a small river with a little water +is crossed: here the road for a very short distance bends suddenly to a +little west of north, but having crossed a narrow and deep ravine-like +cut, resumes its original direction. The country continues precisely the +same, the valley however becomes narrow and more undulating, while the +peculiar limestone ranges appear to be fewer. Reached the encamping +ground in very good time, the vegetation almost precisely the same as +before, but with some willow trees. Many of the ravines are however, +actually covered with thickets, apparently of the prickly yellow flowered +Dioica shrub of _Chummun_; trees and these shrubs occupied by thousands +of a hymenopterous insect or fly. _Joussa_ very abundant: a village, the +lights of one were visible _en route_. The water of the Turnuk is +still very much discoloured, its bed shingly, and the ground near it much +cut up: a mill was passed on the river; the valley here not being 500 +yards wide: the climate is more agreeable, though still very hot in the +middle of the day; in the shade, the air continues pleasant up to 10 A.M. +Thunder not heavy, was succeeded by a squall from the ENE.; little rain +fell, but there were clouds of dust. + +_4th_.--Reached Khilat-i-Gilzee, distance thirteen and a half miles, from +our last encampment, direction NE. by E. as before: the aspect of the +country is unchanged, the road became somewhat difficult about one and a +half mile from camp, where a defile exists along the hills forming the +bank of the river; it was however much easier than that of Botee. Thence +we continued over undulating ground, leaving the Turnuk river to the +right, but reverting to it beyond the fort. Half-way the deep and steep +channel of a river presented a serious obstacle; the country gradually +rises until Khilat-i-Gilzee fort is passed, from thence it descends +somewhat. At this place there is a considerable expanse of irregular +valleys; and to south curious low undulated ground occurs: to the south- +east is a patch of table land, which is not an uncommon form in these +parts; some cultivation here exists along the Turnuk, which runs half a +mile below the fort, which is in ruins, occupying a hill not commanded by +any near ones. This is of no great height, and has two ramifications, +and in the centre the remains of a tower. + +In the valley extending NNE. two villages with castles occur, together +with a good many low trees. Vegetation the same: a curious Antirrhinoid +plant occurs out of flower, Echinops, Carduacea, and a curious Centaurea. +Wet places abound in Rumex and Tamarisk along the river. Horsemen were +seen after passing the fort: two or three willow trees about the +villages. _Jhow_ or barley is selling for ten seers the rupee, _atta_ or +flour at eight. + +_5th_.--Khilat-i-Gilzee is a very uninteresting place, with little +appearance of cultivation. The vegetation of the undulated ground +continues the same, Asphodelus, Mesembryanthemoides, remains of Tauschia, +and the former Cruciferae. The Turnuk discharges a good deal of water +much discoloured, and forming a series of constant rapids. The most +common plants are Artemisiae two or three species, Centaurea spinosa, +Salsola luteiflora, Almond groves, Iris crocifolia? vel sp. affinis, +Asphodelus, Mesemb., Salvioides, Thermopsis, Cichorium, _Joussa_, and +Mentha recur, the two last in abundance. The new plants are a +Chenopodium, Polygonum, Lotoides, Triticum, Astragalus, Scirpus, +Caesalpinioides, Centaurea micrantha, and Eryngioides: a spring occurs in +the old fort of Khilat-i-Gilzee. + +Indian-corn is just sprouting up, barley and other crops ripe. Latitude +of Khilat-i-Gilzee 32 degrees 7' 30"; altitude, Bar. 24.740: the climate +is disagreeable from the violent sudden extremes to which it is exposed. +West winds during day, and east winds of a morning. + +_6th_.--Proceeded to Sir Tasp, ten miles, north-east, road good over an +open undulating country, the only difficulty in the way arising from a +cut with deep holes in it. Vegetation continues precisely the same: +limestone hills less frequent, or at any rate much less rugged, and the +country assumes a much more open character. Artemisia most abundant, of +large size, Caesalpinia, Euonymus dioica, Centaurea spinosa, Echinops, +new plants two Linariae, Eryngium, Verbascum. Altitude 24.505, latitude +32 degrees 12' 22" north. _Atta_ has risen in price to seven seers a +rupee. + +_7th_.--Arrived at Nooroock after a march of nine miles; still extending +up the valley in a direction north-east--direct on the star Capella. The +country is undulated; vegetation still the same. Artemisia most abundant +and of a larger size; road good: no fodder for horses, except along the +river: the valley open, distant hills on either side with a fine range to +the north of the camp, apparently composed of limestone, with abundance +of junipers, and the Iris of Dund-i-Golai very common. Hares, rock +pigeons, Alauda. Myriads of Cicada, and the Jerboa rat. The Turnuk +river is again occasionally in sight, valley apparently little +cultivated. Stipa very common, as well as Iris, Festuca vivipara, +Astragali sp., and Artemisia. Cloudy evening, followed by a stormy +night; wind southerly. + +_8th_.--Reached Tazee, eight miles seven furlongs from Nooroock: +direction still the same, no change: the road good, extending over an +undulated country, except one or two small nullahs with rather steep +banks. A range of mountains seen to the north, called Kohi-Soork, +continue forming a long line, the southern boundary of which is broken: +we are encamped opposite a valley running east, presenting much +cultivation: several villages indicated by distant _smoke_: some trees +are seen here and there: the face of the valley is rather green, +indicating more water than usual. Vegetation is precisely the same; no +_Joussa_ or other fodder for camels than Artemisia and spinous Compositae. +Morning very cloudy and cold at 12 P.M. The plants met with are Chara, +Naiad, Polygoni 3, Malva fl. amplis lilacinis, on banks of river. + +_9th_.--_Shuftul_, five miles: the direction lay towards the star +Capella: road bad, requiring to be made over three difficult ravines, all +forming beds of torrents descending from the Koh-i-Soork. The country +otherwise presents the same features. The Turnuk runs close under the +southern boundary of the valley, and is here a pretty stream of +considerable body. _Joussa_ grows abundantly on its immediate banks, +together with excellent grass and some clover, one or two new Compositae, +one of them a Matthiola, otherwise Artemisiae, Stipa, Centaurea spinaceis +herb. Astragalus, and Peganum, are the most common; Muscoides, +Plantaginacea reoccur, a curious _leaved_ Composita? + +_10th_.--Halted yesterday, and went out along the banks of the Turnuk: +where I found twenty-six species not obtained before. Some cultivation +was observed, but as usual weedy, abounding with two species of +Centaurea. In ditches two species of Epilobium, Sparganium, Mentha, +Polygonum natans, Ranunculus aquaticus, Lotus, Carex, Astragaloid on +swards, on the sandy moist banks of the Turnuk: Epilobium, two Veronicae, +several Cyperaceae, 2 or 3 Junci, Cyperus fuscus. Alisma abundant in +swamps: small partridges: no chakor: hares, swifts, rock-pigeons. Springs +of beautiful clear water: temperature not changeable, 59 degrees; two +small platiceroid fishes in it; tadpoles. Temperature of the river 78 +degrees. The fish of this river are the same as those of the Arghandab, +the large Cyprinus takes Cicada greedily. The vegetation of the hills is +the same: Cerasus pygmaeus and canus, common; the novelties were a fine +Composita, Plectranthus, Ephedra in fruit, Artemisia, and Astragal., +formed the chief bulk; _Joussa_ is common on the river sides. + +This place is 150 feet above the last, yet the increased elevation is not +appreciable to the sight: the tents of the army at the Tazee encampment +are distinctly visible. _Atta_ sold, at eight seers yesterday, barley +sixteen seers for the rupee. Where the sellers come from I know not. +_Atta_ was fifteen seers, but it was soon made eight by the approach of +the army, and to-day it has risen to four and a half. + +_11th_.--Proceeded to Chushm-i-Shadee, ten miles six furlongs, direction +the same: road good, not requiring any repairs; it continues up the +valley but at a greater distance from the river than before; the valley +is enclosed in hills on both sides. Koh-i-Soork, the northern one, is +not very high, but bold and cliffy, with very little cultivation: the +country is less undulated. Chushm-i-Shadee is a beautiful spring, not +deep, but extending some distance under ground; large-sized fish are +found in it: apparently Ophiocephali, but only parts of their bodies can +be seen. Indian-corn and madder are cultivated: a new Asteraceous flower +was found. Passed a small eminence in the centre of the valley, about +three miles from Chushm-i-Shadee. _Joussa_ very abundant. Temperature +of spring 59 degrees. + +_12th_.--Reached Chushm-i-Pinjup, six and a half miles, direction more +northerly; keeping Capella a little to the right: the country is +precisely the same, the road good, one or two easy ravines; one with +water in it. + +The valley is rather wider, soil much less shingly, and capable of +cultivation; several patches of trees are visible in many directions, +indicating villages. We encamped opposite the entrance or gap between +the mountains forming hitherto the southern boundary, and a more lofty +range is seen running parallel with them, about east and west. This +range is of considerable height; presenting a _peculiar slope_ rising +almost half-way up, and very conspicuous: four forts are seen in this +direction; together with several patches of trees, and a good deal of +cultivation, but nothing to what might exist. Artemisia is the chief +shrub; several good springs occur: clover, and good grass are both +abundant for a small party; _Joussa_ in cultivation. The mountain range +to the north is very fine, and apparently of different formation from the +others; here and there whitish patches occur. There is a very evident +slope, which is very gradual from the northern range to the _peculiar_ +slope of the southern. + +Several springs of fine water occur: the temperature of which is 60 +degrees. Fish are abundant about the mouths of these springs, which are +like caves; their waters form one of the heads of the Turnuk, along them +Mentha, Gramineae 2, Plantago major, Centaurea magnispina, Compositae, +Trifolium. In the spring Polygonum natans, and P. graminifol., Chara, +Cyperacae. + +[Peculiar slope: m368.jpg] + +_13th_.--Gojhan, the distance to this place is 12 miles 6 furlongs: it is +not within sight of the Turnuk, though still up the valley of that river, +with the same boundaries: a few ravines were crossed but they were not +difficult: the road, otherwise level, turning most of them, and capable +of easy transit. One small stream was passed, when we encamped on a +small cut with excellent water: the banks as usual clovery and grassy; +opposite this are two villages on either side of a gorge in the northern +boundary, both apparently fortified; the one to the north of the gorge is +of large size. The country is not shingly, but the soil is mixed with +small pebbles; to our right is a bold hill; vegetation the same. +_Bicornigera_ planta is very common, and a good deal of madder +cultivation occurs; wheat and barley all cut and thrashed or trodden out: +_atta_ selling eight and a half seers the rupee. Thermometer at day +break 49 degrees, the west winds continue strong: they arise about 11 +A.M. and continue till sunset, sometimes even a little later; they are +not hot. + +This place, and its environs, is one of the most promising looking I have +seen; the whole face of the country being perhaps capable of cultivation. +No _Joussa_ seen except perhaps among the cultivated fields; grass is +plentiful enough for a small force, and _Boosee_ likewise. + +Quails were seen on the march at some distance: it seems to be a great +country for potash, and perhaps for camphor, which is evidently abundant +in one species of Artemisia. + +_14th_.--Proceeded to Mookhloor or _Chushm-i-Turnuk_, twelve and a +half miles; direction about NNE. The country is the same, but the road +is more raviny: certain passes occur about three miles from Gojhan, +presenting a fine defile, and some smaller ones afterwards. Vegetation +continues the same. Artemisiae, Astragali, and Peganum, are most common; +observed a new Astragalus. The valley is much wider after passing +Gojhan; the southern boundary is not so distinct, owing to the haze: +there is not much cultivation, which appears to be confined to the slopes +under the hills. Mookhloor is situated under a fine limestone cliff; and +an excellent stream of water occurs here, and abundance of fine grass +along the humid banks: along this water villages are abundant, they are +all fortified. Trees are plentiful, indeed after Candahar and Arghandab, +this is the best looking place we have seen: the view is not distinct +however, owing to the haze above alluded to: beyond the water, lies a +vast and barren plain. Fish are abundant in the stream, and vegetation +luxuriant along its margins. This stream divides into two or three +branches, which are all soon choked up with sedges, etc., a cut carries +off the greater part of the water, the slope is to the south, or a little +to the west of south. + +Typha angustifolia occurs in profusion, Mentha, Cochlearia, Epilobiae 2, +Calamus abundant, Cyperaceae in profusion, Ranuncul. aquatic, Alisma +ditto. The vegetation of the plain where we are encamped is chiefly +Artemisia. + +_15th_.--Halted: and I here ascended the hills overhanging the heads of +Turnuk where many villages are visible along its branches, fifty may be +counted, but it is not known how many of these are in ruins, the villages +occur at little distances from each other; the valley is very broad. +These hills, which are of conglomerate limestone, except about the upper +one-third, which is simple limestone, have no peculiar vegetation. Ficus +is the only moderate sized shrub, Asphodelus, Lameoides, Salvia alia, +which must be a beautiful species, Labiatae caespitosa, Baehmerioides, +Pommereulla, and several grasses, Compositae, Linaria, Senecionoides +glaucescens of Quettah, Dianthoides frutex alius congener, Staticoides +alia, Composita Eryngifolia, Eryngium, Astragali 2, Umbelliferae 2-3, +Hibiscus vel Althaei, Rutae sp.; Frutex pistacioides, Sedoides rosaceus, +Onosma, Verbascum, Dipsacea, Cerasus pygmaeus, canus, Scrophularia +tertia, Compositae, Labiatae, and grasses, are all the most common +plants. + +The novelties along the water are a pretty species of Astragalus, in turf +a Triglochin and Typha in flower, Potamogetons 3-4, and Ecratophyllum +occur: barley is now selling at sixteen seers, wheat at eight seers for a +rupee. + +_16th_.--Reached Oba-kahreeze, the distance of which from the last +encampment being fourteen miles. The country is open, but very +uninteresting; the boundary hills are scarcely discernible owing to haze: +the road is good, and a few small hills occur here and there. Vegetation +is comparatively scanty; Astragalus novus, common; the chief plants, +however, is another Artemisia of much more medicated qualities than those +previously met with, that is, less fragrant, Peganum common. Water is +plentiful enough, but fodder is scarce, and scarcely any _Joussa_ occurs; +but a good deal of cultivation was passed, consisting of madder, barley, +and wheat. A few trees were observed here and there marking the sites of +villages. The country is much poorer than that at Mookhloor, but almost +the whole expanse of plain is capable of good cultivation: soil pebbly. +Fowls a good many are procurable. Apricots are also brought for sale, +but very inferior: a striking boundary hill to the north presents a +rugged, lofty aspect, not less in the peaks than 4,000 above the plain; +several ranges occur, but those to the south are low, rounded, and small; +rounded clumps of Astragali are seen. + +_17th_.--Proceeded to Jumrat, 12 miles and 2 furlongs, our direction +lying to the north of the star Capella. The country continues to present +a similar aspect: valley expanded, road tolerable, several ravines and +beds of dry watercourses, with sandy bottoms; indeed as compared with +yesterday, the soil is much more sandy and less pebbly. Vegetation is +the same, no more dense aggregations of Artemisia fruticosa are seen, but +the plants consisting of scattered Artemisia of yesterday, barely +suffruticose, Peganum, Astragalus, Astragaloid Muscoideus, and Senecio +glaucescens. A good deal of cultivation occurs on both sides of the +slope towards the southern boundary, which is here lofty, presenting the +usual limestone characters. Many villages are seen, all fortified, and +about Jumrat there is the appearance of much population. Jerboas, +ravens, rock pigeons, and wild pigeons, are common; hares are uncommon. +Very few trees are to be seen, but there is abundance of good water and +grass along the margins of the cut. Sheep are also to be had, but they +are small, and goats for one rupee each, large sheep two rupees: _dhal_, +_atta_, barley procurable; and Herat rugs. + +To-day the native troops were put on short rations of twelve _chatacs_; +servants, etc. on eight. Horsemen to the number of 100? came to meet the +Shah, all mounted on decent ponies, but quite incapable of coping with +our irregular horse. Barometer 23.305, thermometer 87 degrees, Wooll. +new thermometrical barometer 697.6, old 595.8. + +From 11 P.M. to 12 P.M. heavy rain; very heavy for about twenty minutes, +with a threatening aspect in the horizon at 7 A.M. to south by east, from +which direction the rain came: thunder and lightning; latter very +frequent. + +_18th_.--Entered the district of Karabagh, distance to our present place +of encampment from that we had left eight and a half miles. The road +decent, traversing several watercuts, one or two ravines, and a small +stream, indeed water becomes more abundant to-day than in almost any +other march: our direction lay the same as before, but as we approached +the low hills, separating us from Ghuznee plain, we proceeded more east +in order to turn them. The features of the country are the same, +together with the vegetation, the only novelty being a genuine Statice +and a Cruciferous plant, which I observed at Mookhloor, and a Composita, +Echinops spinis radiantibus continued. The medicated suffruticose +Artemisia: _Joussa_ in old cultivation, and Peganum are the most common +plants. + +Grass abundant along the cuts and streamlets, mixed with a pretty new +Astragalus, and the Astragalus of Mookhloor, _Composita depressa_, etc. + +The valley narrowing, we halted at the foot of low hills, which we are +yet to traverse; the ground about our camp stony and barren, producing +Astragalus, thorny Staticoides, Centaurea spinosa, Verbascum, and +Thapsus. + +The soil of the plain good and deep, as instanced by ravines, and the +deep beds of streamlets. Cultivation is abundant, villages numerous, +and, as usual, all walled; their form generally square, with a bastion at +each corner, and often two at each face, in which there is a gate. The +people are very confident of their own security in these parts, crowding +to our camp with merchandise. The country continues bare of trees, +except about some of the villages; northern boundary hills lofty; a +curious snow-like appearance is occasionally produced from denudation of +land slips, like a long wall running along one of the ridges: southern +hills distant, presenting limestone characters. + +The articles sold in camp yesterday, were _atta_ (wheat) eight seers, +barley sixteen _chenna_, sugar three to four seers. Lucerne abundant, at +one rupee four annas a bullock load, _soorais_, _kismiss_, three to four +seers, _zurd-aloo_ twelve seers, dried _toot_ or mulberry one and a +half seers for a rupee, but these are insipid, very sweet, but also very +dirty, _pistacio_ nuts one seer: crops not yet cut, but ripe. + +_Kupra_, cloth of common quality, as well as a black kind called +_soosee_. + +Barometer, mean of three observations (12 P.M., 1 P.M., 2 P.M.) 23.433, +thermometer 85 degrees 6'. Wooll. new therm. bar. mean of two +observations, 699.1, old, 597.5. Lichens abundant on black _limestone_? +rocks. On hills about camp, Labiata nova, and a curious tomentose plant +were the only novelties. + +_19th_.--Proceeded to Argutto, distance nine miles, direction easterly, +the country continues unchanged until we ascended gradually the end of +the low ridge between us and Ghuznee. The slope was very gradual: the +road towards the foot generally sandy, and in some places very bouldery: +on surmounting the ridge, which was not 300 feet above the plain, we +descended a trifle, and encamped in an open space with hills to the +north; this place slopes to the south into the valley up which we have +come for some marches. The valley in this upper portion is not so +fertile as the lower parts we have seen lately, still there are a good +many forts, and some cultivation: one or two cuts were passed, and water +is abundant at our halting place in cuts, or _Kahrezes_, as well as in a +small torrent with a shallow bed. Several forts were seen on the north +side, situated in the small ravines of the hills, they are however, +mostly ruined. No change in the vegetation. Jerboas not uncommon. An +Accipitrine bird, the same as that obtained at Shair-i-Suffer. + +Horsemen, about thirty, were seen on the hills; they descended thence and +skirted the base in number; when they were pursued by our cavalry, but +escaped through a ravine which Sturt says, leads into a fine plain with +many forts. The 4th brigade joined with the Shah's force. I observed to- +day a curious monstrosity of an Umbelliferous plant, in which the rays of +the umbellules are soldered together; forming an involucre round the +immersed central solitary female, the male flowers forming the extreme +teeth of the involucre. + +Detached thermometer 83 degrees 3', attached ditto 83 degrees 3'; +barometer 23.262, mean of three observations: old therm. bar. 597.2, new +ditto 696.9. Abundance of villages throughout the part of the valley +running east, and then north, and many trees. + +[Ghuznee: p373.jpg] + +_20th_.--Proceeded to Nanee, distance eight to ten miles, bearing north- +east; after descending slightly from the ground we encamped on, and +turning the east extremity of its slope, the road is good, sandy and +shingly, running close to low undulated hills. No change in vegetation. +Encamped on undulated shingly ground formed from low hills to the north, +about half a mile off: Ghuznee is thence visible, situated close under a +range of hills, the walls high, having many bastions, and one angle on +the south face. Abundance of villages and topes or groves about the +valley closing up with irregular barren mountains. Picquets were seen +about five miles from our camp, but no appearance of an army about +Ghuznee. + +The valley up which we have come since leaving Mookhloor, runs opposite +this place, from nearly east to north, and apparently, terminates beyond +Ghuznee; it is highly capable, is well inhabited and much cultivated. So +are all the valleys that we have seen on surmounting the boundary ridges: +the villages occupy each indentation of the valley, as well as its +general level. + +Barometer at 1 P.M. 23.336, thermometer 91 degrees: new thermometric bar. +697.1, old 597.2. Latitude mean of three observations 33 degrees 24' 26" +North. + +_21st_.--Moved to Ghuznee, ten miles six furlongs. Cavalry in very +regular columns on the left; infantry to the right, and the artillery in +the centre; the park bringing up the rear: to the last moment we were not +aware whether the place would hold out or not. The Commander-in-Chief +and staff moved far in advance to reconnoitre until we entered a road +between some gardens, at the exit of which we were almost within range of +the town; here we halted; a fire was soon set up against us from gardens +to our left, and somewhat in advance, but all the shots fell far short. +On the arrival of the infantry, the light companies of the 16th, the 48th +were sent to clear the gardens, which they easily did, although from +being trenched vineyards, walled and _treed_, their defence might have +been very obstinate. In the mean time the guns on the south face of the +fortress opened on us, and our artillery forming line at about 800 yards +range, opened their fire of spherical case and round shot in return; +other guns in the fort then opened and a sharp fire was kept up on those +in the gardens by _jhinjals_ and _pigadas_, who when hard pressed took +refuge in an outwork or round tower. The fire from the south-east +extremity was soon silenced _pro tempore_, the shrapnel practice being +very effective. The howitzer battery on the extreme left of the +artillery line was too great a range, and with the exception of one gun, +all the shells fell short. In the _melee_, the Zuburjur 48-pounder, was +dismounted, and carried with it a considerable portion of the wall of the +citadel where it is built upon a scarp in the east face. After some +further firing, the troops were withdrawn almost without range, but +sheltered by gardens and broken ground. From 9 A.M. the engineers with +an escort reconnoitred the place, and having ascertained that the only +practicable point of attack _with our means_ was the Cabul gate, we +were moved off, and marched to the new ground in the evening. Owing to +the difficulty of crossing a river and several cuts which intercepted the +way, and formed the worst road for camels and guns I have yet seen, much +of the baggage was not up till twelve next (i.e. this) morning. + +One European was killed, accompanying the escort. Graves severely, and +Von Homrig slightly wounded, a _golundauz_ lost his leg, and a few others +were wounded. Their gun practise in the fortress improved much towards +the end, and against the reconnoitring party, was said to be good. + +_22nd_.--The ground we now occupy is the mouth of the valley, up which +the Cabul road runs: our camp stretches obliquely across this; the Shah's +camp taking a curve and resting by its left on the river. On our (i.e. +the sappers) right, is a range of hills, from the extremity of which the +town is commanded; between us and the range in question, the 4th brigade +is stationed, and on the other side, the remainder of the infantry. We +are it seems within reach of the long gun, which has been remounted, and +occasionally directs its energies against the Shah's camp. The night was +quiet, the troops completely knocked up by the fatigues of the day, the +distance we came (to the right) was certainly six miles, and that by +which the infantry moved to the left, was still more. + +The gardens between us and the town are occupied by the enemy, but the +village of Zenrot on the ridge, is not. Large numbers of cavalry are +seen on the other boundary range of the valley, opposite our encampment, +certainly 2,000; this is probably the other son of Dost Mahommud, who +left the fort with the Gilzee cavalry on the night of our march to +Ghuznee, for the purpose of attacking our baggage; they were easily +driven from the ridge, which is now occupied by our horse. + +_23rd_.--Ghuznee was taken this morning by a coup-de-main, the whole +affair was over in half an hour from the time the gate was blown open; +there was, however, a good deal of firing afterwards, and some of the +inhabitants even held out throughout the day, and caused almost as much +loss as that which occurred in the storm. The affair took place as +follows: the guns moved into position between 12.5 and 2.5 P.M., and +about 3 P.M. commenced firing at the defences over the gate: under cover +of this fire the bags of powder, to the amount of 800 lbs. were placed +against the gate by Captain Peat, the hose being fired by Lieut. Durand. +In the mean time the road to the gate was occupied by the storming party, +the advance of which was composed of the flank companies of all the +European Regiments. The head of the advance was once driven back by a +resolute party of Affghans, who fought desperately hand to hand, but a +jam taking place, the check was only momentary. After clearing the gate, +the enemy must have become paralysed, and both town and citadel were +gained with an unprecedentedly trifling loss. None of the engineers, or +of the party who placed the bags, were touched, although from the enemy +burning blue lights they must have been seen distinctly: two, of a few +Europeans who accompanied Capt. Peat were shot; one killed. During the +day a great number of prisoners were taken, among whom was Dost +Mahommud's son; a great number of horses also fell into our hands. + +_24th_.--Ghuznee: by this morning at 9 o'clock every thing was quiet, and +the last holders-out have been taken; strict watch is kept at the gate to +prevent plunder, dead horses are now dragged out, and dead men buried: +the place looks desolate, but the inhabitants are beginning to return. It +appears to me a very strong, though very irregular place, the stronger +for being so: the streets are very narrow, and dirty enough, houses poor, +some said to be good inside, it is a place of considerable size, perhaps +one-third less than Candahar. It is surrounded by a wet ditch, of no +great width, the walls are tall and strong, weakest on the north-east +angle immediately under the citadel; parapets, etc. are in good repair. +The loop holes are however absurd, and even when large are carefully +screened. The ditch is crossed at the Cabul gate by a stone bridge. The +Zuburjur is a very large gun, but almost useless to Affghans, who are no +soldiers. Every side of the town might have been stoutly defended. + +The view from the citadel is extensive and fine, the mountains to the +north and north-west extremely so, and seem crowded in the view, while +the river and its cultivation add novelty to an Affghan landscape; many +villages are visible in every direction, surrounded with gardens and +orchards. + +There is a good deal of cultivation all round the town, which is situated +on a sloping mound, separated by the ditch from the ridge forming the +northern boundary of the valley, up which the Cabul road runs; there is a +small mosque on this ridge, and below it, within 400 yards of the +ramparts, a small village, from which the attack was best seen. The +gardens are as usual walled, and are all capable of irrigation, the plots +being covered with fine grass or clover. Apples, apricots, pears, and +plums much like the Orlean's plum, a sort of half greengage, bullace, +Elaeagnus, and mulberries, are the principal fruit trees; of these the +pear is the best, it is small but well flavoured; the others are +indifferent. There are many vineyards dug into shallow trenches: the +plum is allied to the egg-plum, but altogether there are four kinds. + +The chief vegetation of the uncultivated ground is a small Salsola, +Salsola luteola, this is mixed with Peganum, Santalaceae, Senecionoides +glaucescens, Umbelliferoid bicornigera, Composita, having the decurrent +part of the leaves dislocated and hanging down. Centaurea spinescens, +Linaria, _Joussa_, and one or two Astragali. + +The vegetation, with the exception of an Artemisia indicae similis, a +Malvacea, and an Orobanche growing on Cucumis sp., is precisely the same +as that met with from Mookhloor hither, Cichorium, Polygonum +graminifolium natans, and two others, Rumex, Mentha, Epilobium +micranthum, Dandelion, Plantago major, Panicum. + +There are two kinds of willow trees; Thermopsis is not uncommon, +Centaurea magnispina and Zygophyllum of Candahar are very common, +Sisymbrium, Lophia, Hyoscyamus, Centaurea cyanea, Tauschia. Magpies, +Hoopoes, Pastor roseus. Corvus corax, etc., along the water-cuts. + +Some fine Poplars occur at a village, or rather a Fuqeer's residence; +about one and a half mile to the south-west of the town on the road to +Candahar, and about it, one or two Carduaceae, one a fine one, to be +called C. zamufolia, Pomacea acerifolia, also in gardens: among the +cultivated plants are maize, fennel, aniseed? Solarium, Bangun! Madder, +the beautiful clover of Mookhloor, lucerne, melons, watermelons, cresses, +L. sativum, radishes, onions, beetroot. + +There are no ruins indicating a very extensive old city. About our camp +are the remains of bunds and old mud walls; near us, and between us and +the city, are two minars, with square tall pedestals, of burnt brick, +about 100 feet high, and 600 paces apart: there is nothing striking about +them, although they bear evidences of greater architectural skill than +any thing I have seen in the country, excepting the interior of Ahmed +Shah's tomb. The base is angular, fluted, and equals the capital, which +is but little thicker towards its base. They are brick, and derive their +beauty from the diversity in the situation of the bricks. The one +nearest the city is the smaller, and appears perfect, it is likewise +provided with a staircase: the larger one is broken at the top of the +capital. + +_26th_.--I went to see Mahmoud of Ghuznee's tomb, which is situated in a +largish and better than ordinarily built village, about two miles from +the Cabul gate, on the road to Cabul, at a portion of the valley densely +occupied with gardens. The situation is bad, and the building which +appears irregular, quite unworthy of notice; it is situated among the +crowded houses of the village, and to be found, must be enquired for. + +At the entrance of the obscure court-yard which leads to it, there is a +fine rivulet that comes gushing from under some houses, shaded by fine +mulberry trees; in this court are some remains of Hindoo sculpture in +marble; the way there leads past an ordinary room under some narrow +cloisters to the right, then turning to the left one enters another +court, on the north side of which is the entrance to the tomb; there is +no architectural ornament at all about it, either inside or out. The +room is an ordinary one, occupied towards the centre by a common old +looking tomb of white marble, overhung by lettered tapestry, and +decorated with a tiger skin: over the entrance, hang three eggs of the +ostrich, for which the natives have the very appropriate name of camel +bird, and two shells, like the Hindoo conches, but smaller. The roof is +in bad order, and appears to have been carved. The doors appear old; +they are much carved, but the carvings are effaced; they are not +remarkable for size, beauty, or mass; and appear to be cut from some fir +wood, although the people say they are sandal wood. The tomb strikingly +confirms the idea that the Putans became improved through their +connection with Hindoostanees, rather than the reverse; the tomb is +unworthy of a great conqueror. + +I then ascended the ridge, and descended along it to the picquets on the +flank of our camp. This ridge, like all the low ones from Mookhloor to +this place, is rounded, very shingly, and generally on the northern face, +is partly covered with rocks, apparently limestone. The vegetation +presents nothing unusual, with the exception of a very large Cnicus, +Cnicoideus zamiafolius, capitulis parvis, an Umbellifera, a Scutellaria, +Dipsacus; otherwise they are thinly scattered with two or three +Astragali, two or three Artemisiae, among which A. gossypifera is the +most common, Labiata fragrans of Karabagh, Senecio glaucescens, +Compositae, Eryngioides, Centaurea alia, magnispinae affinis, Santalacea, +Leucades, Onosma major, et alia, foliis angustis, Echinops prima, +Sedoides, Cerasus, Canus pygmaeus, Dianthoides alia. + +The view from this ridge is beautiful, it shows that three valleys enter +the Karabagh one about Ghuznee, the largest to the eastward; then the +Cabul one, then that of the Ghuznee river. The slope of this valley from +the mountains to the river, presents a very undulated appearance. The +cultivation is confined to the immediate banks of the river, which is +thickly inhabited, and to most of the ravines of the mountains, shewing +that water is generally plentiful. The river is to be traced a long way +by means of the line of villages and orchards which follow its banks. + +The mountains are very barren, much varied in the sculpture of their +outlines, and are by no means so rugged as those of limestone in the +Turnuk valley. The lofty one which presents the appearance of a wall +near its ridge, and of snow, alluded to during the march hither on the +18th ultimo, is still visible. Considerable as is the cultivation, it +bears a very small proportion to the great extent of waste, and probably +untillable land, untillable from the extreme thinness of the soil and its +superabundant stones. Cratoegus occurred near Mahmoud's tomb, also +Centaurea cyanea. + +_29th_.--Halted: nothing new; botany very poor; poorer than ordinary. + +_30th_.--Moved to Shusgao, distance thirteen and three-quarter miles, +direction still the same, or, to the north of the star Capella. The road +extends over undulating ground, is cut up by ravines, but easily +traversed, ascending and descending; then crossing a small valley, at the +north-east corner of which the ghat is visible: the ascent to the mouth +of this gorge equals apparently the height attained before descending +into the valley. The pass is narrow, the sides steep but not +precipitous; the hills are not very rugged, and they are generally thinly +clothed with scattered tufted plants; the pass gradually widens, and has +a ruin or remains of a small fort-like building as at the entrance. This +ruin, or fort, looks down into a poorly inhabited, poorly cultivated, +Khorassan valley: road good, with a gradual ascent for one and a half +mile from the exit of the pass, where we encamped, about five miles on +the Cabul side. + +The Botany is rather interesting, the general features are the same as +those of the hills round Ghuznee; the most common plants Senecionoides +glaucus, Plectranthus of Mookhloor in profusion, a new densely tufted +Statice very common, Verbascum, Thapsioides, Linaria, Artemisia very +common, Cnici, two or three of large stature, Astragali, two or three, +Asphodelus luteus, Labiata of Mookhloor, Santalacea, Dipsacus, _Thymus_, +Lotoides, Staticoides major. + +In the undulated ground before reaching the valley preceding the pass, a +fine tall Cnicus occurs, also Plectranthus; Peganum is very common. + +About our halting place the same small Artemisia and Composita dislocata +occur in profusion; Cnicus zamiafolius, Dianthus aglaucine, _Astragalus_, +a peculiar prim-looking species. Leguminosae, Muscoides two or three, +very large Cnici, Plectranthus, Iris out of flower, Astragali alii, 2-3. + +Cultivation consisting of mustard and very poor crops, of which wheat is +the principal: a few ordinary villages are seen with good and abundant +supplies of water; the country notwithstanding is inferior, as compared +with that about Ghuznee. The soil coarse and gravelly, or pebbly. +Thermometer 47 degrees at 5 A.M. + +After descending from the gorge, the summit of which may be estimated at +400 to 500 feet, the ascent is considerable: barometer standing at 1.5 +P.M. at 22.323; thermometer 86 degrees; so that the extreme ascent since +leaving Ghuznee has certainly been between 1,100 to 1,200 feet. + +The inhabitants are coming into camp with articles for sale, as lucerne, +clover, coarse rugs, and sheep. + +_31st_.--Proceeded to Huftasya, eight and a quarter miles, direction +about the same, continuing down a narrow valley with a well marked and +tolerable road, extending over undulating ground, having a slight descent +throughout: the centre of the valley is cultivated, villages extend up +the ravines of the northern side. We halted near several villages, with +a good deal of cultivation around, consisting of beans and mustard. But +few trees are seen about the villages, and there is no change in +vegetation: water abundant from covered _kahreezes_ or wells, which +generally flow into small tanks. + +The slope of the southern boundary is undulated, that of the northern +though generally flat and uninteresting, yet near us becomes very bold +and rugged, but its ravines and passes are easily accessible. + +Shusgao--The plants found here about the cultivation, are Achillaeoides, +Asteroides, Plantago major, Hyoscyamus, Tanacetoides, Artemisia, +Trifolium, Taraxacum, Mentha, Phalaris, Rumex, the small swardy Carex of +Chiltera, Astragalus, calycibus non-inflatis, tomentoso villoso, this +last with Composita dislocata is common on shingly plains. + +On slopes of hills Leucades, Cerasus canus, pygmaeus rare, Dianthoides, +Plectranthus very common, Cnici 3 or 4, Labiata of Mookhloor, +Senecionoides glaucescens common, Artemisia, sp. very common, Staticoides +of Dhun-i-Shere, Anthylloides, Verbascum. + +_Hyoscyamus_. The circumcision of the capsule of this genus is +apparently in connection with the peculiar induration of the calyx of the +fruit; its relations to the capsule is so obvious that its dehiscence is +the only one compatible with the free dissemination of the seeds, _the_ +_calyx remaining entire_. _Hence_? the induration of the calyx +should be the most permanent if it is the cause, but to obviate all +doubts, both calyx, fructus induratus, and capsula circumscissa, should +enter into the generic character; the unilaterality of capsules, and +their invariable tendency to look downwards, or rather the inferior +unilaterality, may likewise reasonably be considered connected with the +same structure of calyx, as well as the expanded limb of the calyx. + +The indurated calyx is the cause, because although circumscissa capsula +is by no means uncommon, and in others has no relation to the calyx, yet +in this genus it has such, and should have in every other similar case. + +_August 1st_.--Hyderkhet, distance ten and a half miles down the same +valley; the road is bad and after crossing the undulating terminations of +the southern slope, very stony and bouldery; in several places it is +narrow and uneven. The country is well inhabited, and very well +cultivated, particularly towards the bed of the river, which is here and +there ornamented with trees. Numbers of villagers are seen on the road +as spectators. Beans very abundant, mustard less so, excellent crops of +wheat; the fields are well tilled, and very cleanly kept: this portion of +the valley, though small, is perhaps the best populated and cultivated +place we have yet seen: the descent throughout is gradual: the boundary +hills, at least lower ranges present a very barren character, covered +with angular slaty fragments. Some tobacco cultivation. + +_2nd_.--Shekhabad, nine miles and six furlongs, direction north-east by +east. The road throughout is rather bad, particularly in places near the +Schneesh river, which has a very rapid current. We left this on its +turning abruptly through a narrow ravine to the south: towards this, the +valley narrows much; we then ascended a rising ground, and descended as +much or perhaps less until we reached the Logur, a river as large almost +as the Arghandab, this we crossed by a bridge composed of stout timbers, +laid on two piers composed of stones and bushes, and tied together by +beams: the cavalry and artillery forded below, and above the bridge. +Crossing the bed which is low and well cultivated, chiefly with rice, we +ascended perhaps 100 feet, and encamped on undulating shingly ground; we +then passed much cultivation on the road: villages are plentiful, and +often placed in very narrow gorges unusually picturesque for +Affghanistan; one scene was especially pretty, enclosed by the high +barren mountains of the southern boundary, in the distance a village or +two, and the Schneesh, with banks well wooded, and willows in the +foreground. + +The aspect of the hills, except some of the distant ranges, is however +changed; quartz has become very common among the shingle, with reddish, +generally micaceous, slate: the mountains are rounded, and easy of +access: very poorly clothed with vegetation. The course of the Logur is +nearly north and south. + +There are some villages about this place, with lucerne, clover and +bearded rice of small stature. + +The elevation of the country is here about 100 feet below our camp, which +is about half a mile from the river. Barometer 182, 23.362; thermometer +95 degrees; latitude 34 degrees 5' 30". + +_3rd_.--Halted: the Logur river discharges much water; the whole of the +tillable portions of adjacent banks are not under cultivation, the rocky +sides to the south composed of micaceous slate, are very precipitous; +these mountains were originally rounded, but are now formed into cliffs; +willows and poplars are abundant along the river. But the vegetation of +the cliffy sides scarcely presents any change, except in a Salvia, a +Ruta, a small withered Leguminosa; the other plants are Polygonacea +frutex uncommon, Senecionoides, Salvia Horminum common, Artemisia two: +the usual one very common, Asphodelus, Mesembryanthoides, and luteus, +several Compositae, two or three Cnicoidei, a Pulicaria, etc. of the same +section, Cuscuta, Linaria angustifolia, Stipa, several withered grasses, +Dianthoides, Scrophularia, Allium, Cerasus canus, pygmaeus uncommon, +Sedoides, Boragineae, Boraginis facie common, Leucades, Astragali, three +or four, Onosmae 2, angustifolia and majus, Scutellaria, Equisetoides, +Ephedra. + +Anthylloides, Plectranthus common, Peganum uncommon, Staticoides major, +Compositae dislocata common. + +In the swardy and wet spots along river, the usual plants occur; the +novelty being a Hippuris out of flower, Plantago, Glaux, Chara, Alisma, +Tamarisk, Salix, Trifolium fragiferum, Thermopsis, Cyperacea, Triglochim, +Equisetum. The _Nuthatch_ found in the cliffs, cultivation occurs. + +To-day news arrived of the flight of Dost Mahommud to Bamean, with 3,000 +Affghan Horse. Captain Outram sent in pursuit. The Shah joined us, +attended by perhaps 2,000 Horse, and people are said to be flocking into +our camp from Cabul. + +_4th_.--Proceeded to Killa-Sir-i-Mahommud, distance ten and a half miles, +direction north by east, the park of artillery, etc. remaining behind, +the road for the first half extending over undulating ground to the head +of the valley, then becoming level and good with some inferior +cultivation: the valley is dry and barren. We encamped on stony ground +forming a slight eminence under a beautiful peak, certainly 4,000 to +5,000 feet above the plain, and hence 12,000 to 13,000 feet above the +sea. The valley at the base of the hills is occupied by a few villages, +but generally speaking little population exists in these parts. No +change in vegetation; at the level part of the march the Chenopodiaceae +of Karabagh is very common. + +The 2,000 Dooranees who joined the Shah yesterday dwindled down to 300 by +the evening, and the camp was fired into at night. There is some +cultivation about this, chiefly of mustard, carrots, millet and Panicum, +Setaria. + +_5th_.--To Maidan, distance eight miles? direction at first as before, +but after crossing the river due north, we continued down the valley, +passing some villages and cultivation consisting of beans, etc.; water +being abundant about three miles from camp, forming a small brook, which +falls into the Cabul river at the end of the valley. Before reaching +this we crossed a low spur, and then descended into Maidan valley: which +presented a beautiful view; much cultivation, and trees abundant along +the Cabul river. + +Crossing this which is a rapid current one foot deep, twenty yards wide, +running south, or in the contrary direction to that which is given in +Tassin's Map, we ascended an eminence on which a ruinous stone fort is +built, we crossed this eminence between the fort and main ridge and +descended into a valley again, keeping above the cultivation at the foot +of the east boundary range, for about a mile, when we halted. The ruins +of a stone bridge exist over the river, one arch remaining on the left +bank. + +The valley is the prettiest we have seen, the hills to the west and north +being lofty and picturesque; one to the latter direction presenting an +appearance exactly like that of snow on its ridge, quite white, but not +changing even at noon, nor occupying such places, as it would do if it +were snow. The mountains, except those to the west, are not boldly +peaked, the valley is prettily diversified with wood, all of the usual +sombre cypress-like appearance, from the trees, especially poplars, being +clipped. Cultivation and water both plentiful: villages and small forts +numerous, with very barren mountains. This was the place where Dost +Mahommud was to have fought; he could not have selected a better, the +ridge entering the valley, and the passage of the river, as well as that +of the fort would have afforded good positions: a road however runs round +the base of the eminence on the river side. By swamping the valley, or +cutting a canal, and entrenching himself he might have caused great +difficulties. Apples are abundant here, rosy and sweet. + +Cultivation of the valley consists of wheat, barley, Cicer, not _chunna_, +maize, rice, carrots, beans, peas. + +The river side is well furnished with willows and poplars, Salix viminea +also occurs; the villages are generally square, with a bastion at each +corner, and loopholes. Cyprinus microsquamatus, {383} common. + +_6th_.--Arghundee, distance eight miles, direction for the first fourth +of the way NE., then considerably to the eastward, when we soon left the +valley and commenced with an ascent over a low ridge by a vile stony road +over undulating ground. On reaching the ridge a similar descent took +place, where the road becomes less stony, but much intersected by +ravines. We encamped about three miles from the ridge, in a rather +barren narrow valley. Nothing of interest occurred on the road, except +Dost Mahommud's guns, which are the best I have seen in the country. The +hills to our north crowded closely together, the inner ranges are very +high, with the appearance of snow. + +Hindoo-koosh is dimly seen in the distance to the eastward. In some +streams water birds, particularly the small kingfisher of India are seen. +The Hoopoe is common, Merops, Pastor, and ravens. New plants a Boragineae +floribus infundibuliformis, tubiformibus, loeta caeruleis, venosa roseis, +melons. Snow on the Hindoo-koosh: rain in the afternoon, and at night a +heavy thunderstorm to the north. + +_7th_.--Kilah-i-Kajee, lies one mile to the eastward: distance of +to-day's march, nine miles? one continued but gradual descent over a bad, +frequently very stony road, not much water. Direction at first ENE., +then on descending into the first valley, due east or even to the south +of east, we encamped in the centre of a well-cultivated valley; near +dense gardens, having good apples; apricots indifferent. Hindoo-koosh is +here more distinctly visible with several ranges interposed; the outline +is rugged, highest point presenting a fine conical irregular peak towards +the south-east. + +_8th_.--Halted: encamped close to gardens and rich cultivation. The +fields are separated by rows of poplars, willows, and Elaeagnus; scenery +pretty from abundance of trees with rice fields interspersed among woods; +the umbrageous banks of the rocky river of Cabul, are quite of unusual +beauty for Afghanistan: extensive fields of cultivation lie in this +direction, as well as across the valley in the direction of Cabul, +consisting of rice in great quantities, mixed with much of a Panicum +stagninum, lucerne, carrots, peas, quantities of safflower, which appears +to me to be of a different species, wheat and barley both cut, the rice +is just in flower. + +In orchards, hazel-nuts, apples, pears, etc. some of the fruit excellent, +particularly pears, but generally they are coarse; apples beautiful to +look at, but poor to the taste, excellent but too luscious plums, good +grapes, excellent and fine sized peaches, melons as good as those of +Candahar, water melons, cherries of very dark colour. + +Some change is to be observed in the vegetation, see Catalogue, two or +three Labiata, an Ononis, an Aconite, Tussilago? etc. among the most +striking, Ammannia and Bergioides, remarkable as tropical forms, but it +is now hot enough for any plant: rice fields crowded with Cyperaceae and +Alisma. + +Crataegus oxycantha, or one very like it. The poplar here grows like the +Lombardy one, either from cropping or crowding; its leaves (when young) +are much smaller! and at this stage it might easily be taken for another +species. + +Heliotropium canus common. The large poplar when young, or even when +matured, has its younger branches with terminal leaves like the sycamore. +The pomaceae-foliis palmatis subtus niveis of Quettah and Candahar are +nothing but this poplar in its young state!! Nothing can exceed the +difference between the two, both in shape and tomentum. + +_12th_.--Halted since 10th at Baber's tomb, situated at some fine +gardens, or rather groves very near the summer-house of Shah Zumaun, and +to the right of the entrance into the town. It is a delightful +residence, and for Afghanistan, a paradise. There are some tanks of +small size, around one of which our tents are pitched under the shade of +sycamores and fine poplars; the tank is fed by a fall from a cut above +its level, and which skirts the range of hills at an elevation of fifty +feet in some places from its base. The tomb of Baber is poor, as also is +the so-called splendid mosque of Shah Jehan, a small ordinary open +edifice of coarse white marble. In the gardens, one finds beautiful +sycamores, and several fine poplars both round the tank and in avenues. +Below them a Bauhinioid fruit was found, together with abundance of +hawthorn, roses, and jasmines. + +The view from this spot is beautiful, as fine as most woodland scenery. +The view from Shah Zumaun's summer-house is also extensive, and not to be +exceeded as a cultivated woodland scene; it is variegated with green +swardy commons, presenting all sorts of cultivation; with water, +villages, abundance of trees, willows, poplars, hedgerows, and by the +grand but barren mountains surrounding it, the Pughman hills, which must +be at least 13,000 feet above the sea. + +The entrance to Cabul on this side, is through a gorge flanked by hills; +these to the left are low, those to the right reaching 1,000 feet, +through which the Maidan river, here called the Cabul river, runs; it may +be 100 yards wide. The river is subdivided, and crossed by a ruined +stone bridge of many arches, one parapet of which (the outer) is +continuous with the wall before mentioned. The gorge is occupied by +cultivation of several kinds, having the city wall at its termination, +running irregularly across the valley. A village is situated between the +entrance of the gorge and the wall. There are no defences to the city +worth mentioning: one enters immediately into narrow dirty streets, with +here and there a fever-breeding stagnant sewer; while the streets are +narrow, the bazars are good, of good breadth, well covered in by flat +ornamented roofs: the shops are clean, and well laid out. Shoemakers and +leather-workers, and fruiterers, are the most common: there are +armourers, blacksmiths, drapers and bakers. Hindoos and Mussulmen +intermixed, form the population. There is great bustle and activity, +everywhere profusion of fine fruit, especially melons, grapes, and apples +are presented. + +_13th_.--I ascended this morning the ridge above us, up which the wall +runs; the ascent is, after surmounting the summer-house of Shah Zumaun, +considerably steep, and very rugged. The highest position of the wall is +1,150 feet above the city. It is eight feet high, and six or seven +thick, composed of slabs of the micaceous slaty stone of the place, +cemented by mud, with a parapet of two feet, generally of _kucha_, or +mud, with loopholes, and bad embrasures. It is furnished with bastions, +but is now in a ruinous state. It is a work completely thrown away. To +the south, the wall bends eastward, and is continuous with the outworks +of the upper citadel; to the north it dips into the gorge, and re-ascends +the hills on the opposite side. + +From the peak, (which is not the highest point of the ridge, there being +two higher to the south, on the nearest of which is a mound, and a small +pillar) a beautiful view is obtained of Cabul, its valley, and its +mountains, together with the far more beautiful valley in which the army +is encamped. + +The town itself presents an irregular outline, and is, with the exception +of some gardens towards its northern side, some lucerne fields near its +centre, and one or two open spots of small size, densely crowded with the +usual terraced-roofed, _kucha_, or mud houses, which are so close, as to +show no streets whatever. + +There is not a single conspicuous building in it, with the exception of +the lower Bala Hissar and a mosque of small size on the right bank of the +river, occupying an open space near a garden, which alone renders it +distinct. + +The Bala Hissar occupies the eastern corner: its outworks are regular +enough. It is surrounded by the remains of a wet ditch; its works have +been lately improved. Excepting the part occupied by the Shah, etc. the +space is crowded by houses exactly like the town. The fort to its south +and commanding it completely, is the upper citadel, and is altogether out +of repair; this continues the defence formed by the wall. The walls of +the city themselves are not distinguishable, excepting those of the +nearest quarter, occupied by Kuzzilbashes. The river intersects the +town, it is crossed by two, three, or perhaps more small stone bridges, +and runs nearly due east, and may be traced almost to the foot of the +eastern boundary range. From near the mosque a fine straight road runs +NNE. or thereabouts, with avenues of trees of small size near the town. +Two other roads are visible on the east side; one is continuous with that +which runs along the north face of the lower citadel, it runs due east; +and the other slopes towards this, and meets it about two or three miles +from the city at the end of a low range of hills. + +The valley is not so well cultivated as ours, (i.e. the one in which the +army is encamped) nor by any means so well wooded; it appears bare some +way from the city, but this may arise from the stubble of the prevailing +cultivation of wheat and barley. There is abundance of water, the only +distinct _Chummun_ is to the south of the citadel, it is now under water. + +Some low isolated hills or ranges are interspersed in the valley; of +these the largest is that running nearly parallel to the central road; +the next is due north of the city, and midway between it and the salt- +water lake which stretches several miles along the north of the valley, +and which appears to be a large body of water. + +The boundary hills are generally fine; to the east is a high scarped bold +range, running nearly due north and south, its terminations being plainly +visible; near its southern end commences the ridge that forms the oblique +south boundary of the valley, and which runs up towards the south into a +fine broadly conical peak, very conspicuous from Arghandab. To the north +are the fine Pughman mountains; these run east and west: they are of +great elevation, and of fine outline, presenting here and there +appearances of snow. To the west is the walled ridge, not exceeding +1,300 feet in its highest point above the general level; this is +interrupted by the Cabul river, and never reaches such elevations again; +before ending to the north, it sends off a spur to the east. + +Beyond the eastern boundary, glimpses of the Hindoo-koosh are obtainable. + +To the west, there are no very high hills visible, excepting the western +part of the Pughmans; those of our valley are not exceeding 2,000 feet in +height, and are low to the south, in which direction the Maidan river +flows into the valley. Beyond the highest point of the walled ridge, are +several crowded high mountains. + +The vegetation of the western hills is not peculiar, Echinops, a tallish +Carduacea, Carduacea alia, Senecionoides, Astragali, Artemisiae 2, +Statice of Dhuni pass. + +Leucades, Labiata of Karabagh, Gramineae, several small Compositae, +foliis dislocatis, Leguminosa, fructu echinatis, Santalacea, Asphodelus +luteus, Ruta angustifolia, Umbellifera, foliis maximis of Chiltera, a +very stout plant, with a very medicinal gum, a new Polanisioid, a +Centaureoid, and a fine Carduacea are to be found in it. + +A Marmot, the size of a large rat, is also found here, the large +specimens are of a reddish tinge, the small ones of a blackish. + +The bazars are crowded all day, and in the morning are obstructed from +asses loaded with wood. Most things are procurable; the cloths seen are +mostly the indifferent common kind of cloth related to the Seikh Puttoo; +camel hair _chogas_, posteens or coarse blankets; these last indicating +very cold winters: there are not many other things peculiar--long knives, +and the shoes and boots are among the most so, and wretched silk +handkerchiefs. + +The most common grapes are the _kismiss_, a long coarse grape which +answers for packing, a round, very sweet, purple grape, with large seeds, +and small seedless ones intermixed, are all capable of being much +improved by thinning, and a huge, tough-skinned, coarse, purple grape, of +good flavour. + +The best peaches have a green appearance, even when ripe; the ordinary +ones are coarse, and not well-flavoured; but the Affghans are quite +ignorant of the art of packing fruit, and hence most are bruised. + +Two sorts of apples are common, both rosy; one very much so, but much +inferior to the other. + +Pears principally of two kinds, both allied to the common pear in shape; +the large ones are very coarse, but well adapted for stewing. + +_Aloocha_ excellent for jellies, as also the cherries: most kinds of +plums are now out of season. + +The melons vary much in quality, the watermelons are generally better, +and vary less: the muskmelons I have here seen, are ruined by inattention +to the time of gathering; some are very fine, the pulp is never very deep +coloured; it is very rarely green; some of the Kundah sort are very good; +this and the _turbooj_ are both excessively common. The usual Cucurbita +is cultivated, as well as the other common cucumber, pumpkin, Luffa +foetida, and L. acutangula. + +Cabbages common, beet root ditto, _bangun_ ditto, excellent spinage +(Spinaceae). + +All sorts of spices procurable, but they are generally old: sugar very +good, is sold in flat candied cakes, one and a half inch thick; _koorool_ +in small cakes resembling chunam. + + + +CHAPTER XVI. + + +_From Cabul to Bamean--The Helmund_, _and Oxus rivers_. + +_24th August_, _1839_.--Left Cabul for Bamean, and marched to +Urghundee. + +_25th_.--To the Cabul river, distance twelve and a half miles; diverged +from the Cabul road at Urghundee Chokey, striking obliquely across a +ravine that debouches into the main valley at this point. The course of +the river ENE. or thereabouts, then we entered a ravine to the west side +of the river, and commenced ascending the pass, which is not difficult, +and although rather steep at first, subsequently it becomes merely +undulated, the surrounding hills of the pass have the usual character, +but are separated by mere ravines. Vegetation very scanty; Senecionoides +very common, as also _Joussa_ and Statice of Dund-i-sheer; here I noticed +the Solora found in the wood at Kilatkajee. The Barometer at the summit +of the pass, 22.148: thermometer 60 degrees. An extensive view is had +from it, up the Cabul river, the valley of which is well cultivated, but +presents nothing very striking in its neighbouring mountains. Great +numbers of sheep passed us going towards Cabul, also numbers of Patans +with their families, all on camels, than some of which last nothing could +be finer. The women's dress consists of loose gowns, generally bluish, +with short waists coming almost up under the arms, and leggings of folded +cloths; they are a gipsy-like, sun-burnt, good looking people. Numbers +of asses laden with grain were also passed. At the halting place +indifferent apples only were to be had. Slight rain fell in the +afternoon from east, then it became heavier from west. + +_26th_.--Distance eight miles, the road lay along the Cabul river up a +gentle ascent, over undulated ground; features of country the same, +villages, etc., abundant. Heavy rain set in from the west after our +arrival at the encamping ground at 4 P.M., with thunder. Night hazy, +heavy dew. + +_27th_.--To Sir-i-Chushme, distance ten miles, direction continues +easterly up the Cabul river valley: features the same; road generally +good, here and there stony, crossed a large tributary falling into the +Cabul river, from the north at Juljaily, a large village, the largest in +the valley, and very pretty. Poplars and willows in plenty along river. +Near Sir-i-Chushme the valley becomes narrow; the river passing through a +gorge, on the left side of which on rugged rocky ground, are the remains +of a tower. The rocks here are mica slate, reposing at a considerable +angle, occasionally nearly vertical. The surface is thinly vegetated, +Silenacea, two or three _Muscoides_ (981), Scrophulariae sp., common, +etc. (see Catal. 971, etc.) Beyond, the valley again widens, presenting +similar features to those just mentioned. To the right side of the +valley there is a beautiful narrow ravine, bounded on the south with +springs, to the north by a noble bleak rugged ridge, with much snow; it +has the usual features, namely, a shingly inclined plane between huge +hills. The village of Sir-i-Chushme is built on a rising ground or small +spur, surrounded by numerous springs which supply the source of the Cabul +river; the bed of which above them is nearly dry. The springs abound +with the usual water plants, a Cinclidotoid moss in abundance, a Celtoid +tree stands over one spring; Peganum continues. A shallow circular pool +occurs at the foot of the hills, on which the village is built; it is +crowded with the peculiar Cyprinidae of these parts, {390a} some of which +attain three pounds in weight, as also a small loach. {390b} + +The cultivation throughout this valley is good. The soil is however +heavy, but in places it gives way to a brown mould: rice is cultivated up +to Julraiz, but not beyond, millet (Setaria), Indian-corn, lucerne, +mustard, beet root; beans and peas are very common. + +Great pains are taken with watercuts, which are led off into each ravine +that debouches into the valley, at elevations of sixty to eighty feet +above the river; opposite each, the river where led off is bunded across. +The watercuts or courses are in some places built up with stones. Apricot +trees continue, also mulberries near Julraiz, but they are not +productive. + +Timber is cut in good quantities, and is floated down in the spring to +Cabul. We continue to meet flocks of sheep and camels with Patans, +Momums, and Ghilzees going to Cabul, thence to Julallabad; after selling +their produce at Cabul, they return in the summer to the same pasturages. + +The oxen used to tread out corn are muzzled: grain is winnowed as in +Europe by throwing it up in the wind, the corn falls nearest the wind, +the coarse chaff next, then the fine chaff. Sir-i-Chushme is about the +same height as the pass into the valley of the Cabul river. + +English Scrophularia were observed to-day at Julraiz. We obtained all +provisions cheap at this place, but of very inferior quality compared to +Cabul. + +The most common plants are Senecionoides and Plectranthus; Artemisiae one +or two, some Carduaceae. Very few novelties occur: hedges of Hippophae +and roses, Salvia very common to-day; asses were seen laden with dried +_Ruwash_ leaves. + +_28th_.--To Yonutt, twelve miles, continued for a short distance up the +Sir-i-Chushme valley, then we diverged to the north-west, still following +the principal streamlet up an easy defile; on reaching a beautiful +_kila_, differently ornamented from the usual form, we diverged along the +same ravine much more to the west. We continued doing so for five or six +miles, passing a little cultivation in every possible spot capable of it, +and four or five forts. The ascent then commenced to be steeper, still +continuing up the watercourse which was very small; this we soon left, +passing over five ridges of easy access, the third being the highest. +Barometer 20.365: thermometer 80 degrees at 10.5 A.M.; after this we +descended the 5th ridge or kotal, 200 or 300 feet, which is very steep, +having a watercourse at its bottom; direction of stream lies to the +north, thence ascending we again descended gradually over an open stony +ridge, until we reached the fort of Yonutt, where we encamped near a +green wet spot, visible for some distance. + +The road here and there was bad owing to stones; except at the last +kotal, or ascent, it was nowhere very steep, but difficult enough for +camels, especially up the ascent of the 1st kotal. It lay up a ravine +not unlike others we have seen, the ascent being considerable, but +gradual, when we left the watercourse, however, we came on a different +country, very elevated (1st kotal not under 10,000 feet), longly +_undulated_, the mountains generally massive, rounded, here and there +rising into peaks, especially to the south, near Yonutt, where there is a +fine ridge not under 14,000 or 15,000 feet, rugged with spots of snow; +the mountains to north of this are more rounded; slate and limestone +abundant, but not a tree from the base of the 1st ascent. The ascent is +very practicable, the road is made, or artificial in many places, soil +soft and broken: there is water at seven miles from Sir-i-Chushme, and +even at the foot of the 1st kotal, at least there are two or three of the +usual villages; there is one with its wall demolished. Many granite +blocks are strewed on the road. For ponies and horses, even laden, the +road is very easy, but for draft it is difficult. We experienced a cold +cutting west wind from 11 A.M. Grass is plentiful along all the moist +spots, but it is useless as the camels prefer the Carduacea of this +place, though a bad fodder for them. + +[Sir-i-Chushme ridges: m392.jpg] + +Not much change was observed in the vegetation for half-way up the 1st +kotal or ascent; willows and poplars continue to nearly one mile from the +last village. Here and there along the ravine or streamlet, Salvia is +very common, Senecionoides, Bubonoides on rocky ground, Sinapis, +Verbascum decurrens used in the Himalayas for German tinder, Statice of +Dund-i-Shere, Muscoides of yesterday, Urtica of Cabul, Malva +rotundifolia, Hyoscyamus 1-labiat., Polygonum prostratum of shingly +spots, Composita dislocata, Leucades, Boraginea, Boraginis fasciae _of_ +_before_. About Kila Moostaffur Khan a coarse tufted grass, Centaurea +oligantha common throughout, first found at Khilat-i-Gilzee; Onosma +major, Cochlearia, Dianthoides. Chenopodium diclinum, villosa, Astragali +2-3, Cichorum, Linaria angustifolia, Euphorbia angustifolia, Marrabium, +Hyoscyamus of Quettah, Testucoides annua appears about here, Epilobium +minus, Rumex, Lactuca fol. cost. subtus spinosis, Melilotus, Silene +angulata, Arenaria, calyce globoso inflato, Echinops of Cabul. The water +plants are precisely the same as those of Cabul. + +For new plants see Catalogue 980, etc. + +Summit of 1st kotal Statice of Dund-i-Shere, Statice grandiflora, +Dianthoides, several Astragali, one with the pinnulae dentato serratis, +petiola spinosa, a tufted Monocotyledonous plant with terete canaliculate +subulate leaves, _Salvia_, Gramen alterum, Composita dislocata, +Carduacea, this is the most common plant on the open rounded parts, while +the others occupy the rocky sides of the hills. The vegetation is +however very poor. + +Cultivation various, as seen in different stages along the gorge up to +the ascent. Thus, people are seen ploughing for the next year's crops +amidst stubble fields, and lucerne; but above and throughout the ascent, +no crops are cut, while the wheat and barley on the descent are in the +ear: mustard very common. Several encampments of what are badly called +black teal, and paths are to be seen very frequently over the hills in +most directions, together with flocks of sheep. A large road leading off +to the south-west from the summit is seen; from this our road is well- +marked. + +_29th_.--Halted: every tillable spot is made use of about Yonutt, where +there is a fort with forty families. The crops are chiefly wheat and a +four-awned barley, the grain is fine though scanty, and the plants are of +stunted growth. Ravens the same, round-tailed eagle as at Urghundee, and +Percnopterus, wagtails, three kinds of Conirostres, and an Alauda are +found here, one or two Sylviae. The sward about this place is abundant, +affords good pasturage for a few horses, and water is plentiful. This +sward is chiefly occupied by a Leguminous Caraganoid shrub, rather +thorny, and not unlike some species of Barberry in habit, this is +abundant, and is first met with in the ravines beyond the Oonnoo pass, +Cyperaceae, viz. 2-3, Carices, small grasses, Leontodon, Astragaloid +caerulens, Trifolium album, Composita corona, Cnicus acaulis, and +Gentiana pusilla, compose the sward chiefly; in the drier parts of it +there is a very fine Carduacea, which appears very local. + +The hills about are all either clay slate, pure slate, or micaceous +slate, the strata generally vertical. + +Descended the ravine which the rivulet passes down, to where it joins the +Helmund, the hills bounding it are of no great height, but the slips are +sometimes bold. The Helmund runs between rocky cliffs, its bed not much +broader than the stream, the water is clear, rapid, and the column +considerable. + +This gorge is picturesque, the sides being generally precipitous. + +The plants of these hills are, Umbelliferae very common, Statice 2, +Carduacea, Ephedra, Labiatae of Karabagh vel similia, Arenarioid out of +flower in the crevices, a large Mattheoloid, Leucades, Dianthoides foliis +undulatis, Artemisiae two or three, one a peculiar one, No.--a shrubby +Astragalus, stunted scraggy Polanisia of Cabul? Campanula of Karabagh in +the bed of the stream, Cnicus of Kot-i-Ashruf, and Salvia are excessively +common, Artemisia pyramidalis, two or three: mosses occur on the banks, +and several Gramineae, see Catalogue 1,005, etc. Cnicus alius, +Verbascum. + +[Helmund gorge: m393.jpg] + +_30th_.--We continued ascending gradually, crossing a low ridge covered +with sward, and then descended to surmount another ridge, which appeared +to me to be as high as the top of the Oonnoo. We thence descended, +crossing several small ridges; and, at about the distance of five miles +from the commencement of the day's journey, suddenly turned north, +entering a gorge of the usual structure, drained by a small stream, and +thence came on the Helmund, not much increased in size as compared with +the point at which we had seen it first, but in a comparatively wide and +partly cultivated ravine, containing three or four ruined forts. We +continued a quarter of a mile down the Helmund, then ascended up a +considerable stream through a similar gorge, until we reached an +encamping spot, after performing thirteen and a half miles. The +barometer at the Helmund stood at 21.206, thermometer 63 degrees in sun. + +Kohi-Baba is first seen from the first ridge, but it is seen beautifully +from the second, and still better from some distance beneath this; it is +a noble three-peaked ridge, the eastern peak is the largest, and of +angular, conical shape. The other two are rugged; the central one is +perhaps the highest; the lower portions cliffy, evidently slaty. + +The river up which we came after leaving the Helmund, is fully equal to +that in size; it is very rapid: the ravine is very narrow, occasionally +widening into swardy spots. We encamped nearly opposite Kohi-Baba, the +conical peak of which here seems a huge rounded mass, with heavy patches +of snow, particularly along the northern ridge: the second range to the +south is very precipitous and cliffy: at this place a small streamlet +falls into the river from the direction of Kohi-Baba. + +No particular change in vegetation is observed: two or three Umbelliferae, +a Scrophularia, Geranium, Ranunculus aquaticus, Herba immersa, foliis +anguste loratis, Potentilla, _Panserina_, a new Graminea. + +The most common plants are still Carduaceae and Salvia; Rosa occurs also, +(Senecionoides ceased some time before) Statice, Scutellaria common, +Verbascum, Euphorbia linearifolia, Linaria ditto, Mentha: no change in +water plants, or in those of the sward, Chenopod. faemin. villos, coarse +grass, No. 998, common; the chief new feature is _Ruwash_, the dead red +leaves of which are abundant. Two villages were passed after leaving the +Helmund, both ruined, yet all spots cultivated, several with Cicer. +Watercourses as high up cliffs and hills as 100 feet above the river. + +A dreadfully cutting dry wind blows down the ravine, and in our faces all +the way. Limestone cliffs occurred, about which the vegetation became +rich, more especially near a bridge consisting of trees thrown across a +narrow portion of the river, at a point where the stream is very deep; +near this are two willow trees of a different species. A fine Rosa, a +new Epilobium, Aconitum, Salisburifolium, a small Crucifera, one or two +Compositae, a curious Polygonum, a Rumex, a Dianthus, Silene, three or +four Umbelliferae, among which is the yellow Ferula? of the Kojhuk pass, +two or three new Leguminosae, Saponaria, Silenacea inflata, Cerastium may +be found among them, or in the fields close by. + +_31st_.--We ascended the high bank or cliff over the bridge, and +continued up the ravine which lies over the river, but whose bed is too +narrow for a road: we passed two or three villages, the road undulating +over ground covered with granite boulders, or rather small masses, +rounded only when exposed to weather; the bottom of each undulation is +covered with sward and giving exit to a small stream; sometimes we came +on the bed of the river. At six and a half miles we came on a fort, used +as a custom house, and diverged again to the east up a ravine; the Arak +road continuing along the river. We passed another fort, and then +commenced the main ascent of Hajeeguk. In a ravine to the left, 100 feet +above us, was a large mass of half frozen snow: barometer at the foot of +main ascent 20.320, thermometer 80 degrees. The ascent is rather steep, +but easy enough: barometer 19.755, thermometer 80 degrees. Thence the +descent was steep for about 800 feet, and then gradual for four or five +more, when we encamped on sward. From the top of the pass we had a +beautiful view of the _ridge_ of Kohi-Baba, running about WNW., +presenting a succession of fine bold rugged peaks, the conical mass was +not seen well, as there is heavy snow on it, and on some other parts of +the ridge. + +Water is plentiful in all ravines, the lower parts of which are covered +with swardy grass. Cultivation is less advanced than at Yonutt, +consisting chiefly of barley; every capable spot is made use of. Boulders +of antimony, also a large mountain close to, and on the right of our camp +composed of this ore, which is very heavy; a ruined fort on the hill near +us, shewing again how some of these ridges become disintegrated. A +_cafila_ passed with huge loads of cloths of various sorts, carried on +asses, going to Bamean: they paid toll I observed at Choky fort. + +The vegetation in the snow ravine was rich, and varied in the swardy +spots: Ranunculi 2, Swertia 2-3, Gentiana a fine one, Junci, Carices, +Euphrasia, Triglochin, Veronica as before, Cardaminoides; near the snow +in sward, a pretty Primula in flower; two other Pediculares. A Brynum on +the dry parts of the ravine, two Astragali in flower 2-3, Cruciferae, +Echinops, Carduaceae, Silene pusilla, Stellaria, Campanula odorata, +Rutacea about springs, Parnassia? Astragali 3-4, in flower, long past +this elsewhere, Thalictrioides, Secaloides. + +See Catalogue Nos. --- of exposed face; Staticoides of Yonutt, Graminae +998, Carduaceae very common, Statice aliae rare. + +The hill over which the pass runs, is chiefly covered with a herbaceous +Carduacea out of flower in profusion, one or two Astragali, an +Artemisioid, small Compositae, and the abundant Carduaceae of Yonutt, +Astragaloid pinnulis on the west side, _Koollah hujareel_, Statice, +Macrantha dentatis; a spinous leaved Carduacea, different from the Zamea +leaved ones out of flower, Gramin. 998 common, Chenopodioid? Arenaria +spinosa, Onosma, Carduacea alia, two or three Astragalus primus. +Altogether the vegetation is different from that of Oonnoo, in the +comparative absence of Statice, Dianthoid, and Astragali. + +Similar swardy spots occur on the west of the pass, a large Swertia, +Caraganoid, Carices, etc. as before, Gentiana of Yonutt, a new +Potentilla, Salix fruticosa; here also occurs the first Orchidea I have +seen in Khorassan: it belongs to the tribe Orchis, but is out of flower. +On the 1st of Sept., I re-crossed Hajeeguk, directing my way again into +the snow ravine from the top of the pass, and found a number of plants, +for which see Catalogue. A Campanula abundant about springs at 12,400 +feet. The vegetation of the ravine close by the little fort is rich, and +would repay two or three days' halt, as it runs a long way up the +antimony hill, Swertia in profusion, Geranium also, Stellaria, a fine +Conyzoidia. + +I had here an opportunity of observing the curious effect of a patch of +snow in retarding vegetation, all the plants about, being as it were a +spring flora, even such as at similar elevations elsewhere, were all past +seed; such as Astragalus primus. Again, why do some plants flower sooner +at such elevations than at other lower places? such as Cardamine, here +past flower, but not commencing at Cabul; is it because this plant will +flower in the winter in Cabul? so there may be a law requiring such +plants to flower in wintery situations by a certain time? The idea is +perhaps absurd, as their growth depends exclusively on the power of the +sun. + +_September 1st_.--After re-crossing Hajeeguk we continued our march to +Sohkta, five and a half miles. The road continued along a considerable +descent throughout, at first down the valley in which we had halted to +the west, thence down the large Kulloo valley in a northerly direction; +towards the mouth of first ravine or valley it is bad, passing across a +land slip, then it crosses the bed of a huge torrent falling at a great +rate, and obstructed with boulders; the right bank, a high almost +precipitous mountain, the left a high aggregate of granitic and other +boulders. Water abundant, divided into three streams or so: this torrent +comes direct from the nearest portion of Kohi-Baba, which appears of easy +descent, presenting beautiful peaks. The road then keeps along left +bank, undulating over the ravines, down which water flows from the hills +on the eastern side; some of these are very steep, and the road itself is +infamous, as may be supposed, crowded with boulders, and impracticable +for wheeled carriages: one precipitous ravine we passed through, the +rocks consisted of blackish, curiously laminated, and metallic looking +stone. On descending one steep ravine, we then came on the road leading +up to the Kulloo mountain, where we halted. + +A good many villages, with forts, as usual were passed; the cultivation +more advanced than at our last halt, crops consisting chiefly of barley. +One good fort was observed close to our halting place opposite the +direction of the small Kulloo ravine; across the valley a well marked +road is seen running up a part of Kulloo ridge, at a lower elevation than +that which we crossed. + +Poplars and willows occur in the large valley, particularly towards +Sohkta, a small orchard of stunted mulberry trees. Cultivation +consisting of peas; barley of fine grain, resembling wheat when freed +from the husk. + +The plants of the valley of Kulloo were badly observed, as I was greatly +tired and fatigued. Polygonum fruticosum re-occurs, Silene, Clematis +erecta, Tragogopon, Salvia but less common, a curious Cruciferous plant, +Lactucacea purpurea of Cabul, Chenopodium villosum faemin. Dianthus, +Saponaria, Lychnis inflata, oats common in fields, the common thistle, +Urtica, Caragana abundant along the bed of the river, Papaver. On rocks +about camp, 2 Salsolae, Glaucum, Umbelliferae of the Yonutt ravine, +Artemisiae, Rosa _Ribes_! Scrophularia alia. + +The valley is very narrow at camp, the river running between precipices, +in some parts passable without wetting the feet. + +_2nd_.--From Sohkta Kullar-Rood to Topehee, eight and a half miles. The +road lay in a northerly direction for a quarter of a mile, then turning +up a steep ravine, with an ascent for 800 feet; then small descent, then +levellish, until we came to a black cliff, over which another steeper but +longer ascent extended, then it became levellish for some distance; two +other moderate, extended, longish ascents, led us to the summit, which is +500 feet higher than that of Hajeeguk. The descent continued steep and +most tedious on reaching the precipitous ravine of Topehee, the road +wound over small spurs, until we came to a grove of willows near the +village. The road although steep is not bad, the soil being soft, that +of the upper parts and of the descent, even annoying from the sand, both +might with little trouble be made easy, but especially the descent. + +The mercury of the Barometer on the summit at 11 A.M., stood at 19.513, +at 11.5 A.M., 19.506, Thermometer 66 degrees. + +The camels all came up but one, though very slowly; to them as to us, the +descent was more tiring than the ascent. + +From the summit a fine view of Kohi-Baba was obtained, running to NW. by +N. To the NE., another high range, but not so marked as Kohi-Baba, was +seen running in a similar direction; on this, two considerable peaks +present themselves, but only visible when lower down. + +A splendid view of the Bamean valley is here obtained. We have now +obviously passed the highest ranges: to west where the country is low and +flat; to the north, the mountains indistinctly visible, are beautifully +varied, presenting rugged outlines 10,000 feet above Bamean, also a view +of an unearthly looking mountain, most variedly sculptured, is obtained, +with here and there rich ravines and columnar sided valleys, presenting +tints very varied; in those of the lower ranges, rich rosy tints are +predominant; also niches in which gigantic idols are plainly seen: also a +view of Goolghoolla, looking as it is in reality, a ruined city: a fine +gorge apparently beyond the Bamean river, and a large ravine due north, +by which I expect the Bamean river reaches the Oxus; not a tree is to be +seen, except a few about Bamean. The whole view is indescribably +volcanic, barren yet rich, requiring much colouring to convey an idea of +it. + +[Bamean Idols: p398.jpg] + +To the top of the pass it is three and a half miles; the character of +Kulloo mountain is different from that above described, it is rounded, +and composed of a curious compact slate, towards the summit well covered +with plants, large tufts of Statice, two or three kinds, two undescribed; +immense quantities of Artemisia, coarse tufted grasses, Onosma, Carduacea +herbacea of Hajeeguk, uncommon; Triticoides 998, not common; Alium fusco +purpurea common. A few exposed rocks occur on the summit. The ravines +are all dry, there being no water or very little in them, and no +cultivation; thus the contrast visible on both sides of the Kulloo river +which runs round the foot of the mountain, is remarkable. Vegetation +being distinct on either side. + +Yet the ravine of Topehee shows, that when exposed to the action of +water, this rock becomes very precipitous, cliffy, easily dislocated: the +latter part of the road winds over a portion of this. Chakor, Ptarmigan +a fine bird, voice somewhat like that of a vulture, to which it is +perhaps anologous. + +About Sohkta or in ravines, Euphorbia linearifolia, Ephedra, Asteroides, +Rosa Ribes, Composita dislocata, Artemisiae, Aster pyramidalis, +Chenopodium villosum faem., Senecionoides. + +Scutellaria, Scrophularia, Santonicoides, Polygonum fruticosum, Salvia, +Artemisia linearifolia, Centaurea angustifolia, Cochlearia, Umbelliferae +of Yonutt, Stellaria, Glaucium, Labiata nova, Hyoscyamus minor, +Lactucacea, Linaria, Salsola elegans, Marrubium, common thistle, Rumex, +Potentilla anserina, Sinapis of Siah-Sung ravine, Berberis, Secaloides, +Statice, _Marmots_, Statice glauca pedunculata, Stipha of Nakhood, +Aconiti sp., Ferula? Spiraea facie frutex, Ribes, Muscoides. + +First ridge Dianthoides, Statice three to two glaucous species, one +sessile the other pedunculate, Ferula, Scutellaria, Labiata +trumpet-shaped calyces, Astragali, Diacanthus, Stipa, Ribes, Arenaria +spinosa, Triticum carneo pubescens, Pulmonaria corolla trumpet-shaped, +Salvia sparingly, Pommereulla, Artemisia in profusion, Spiraeoides, +Chenopodium villos., faemin. parvus, Leguminosae two or three, _Ruwash_ +sparingly. + +Not much change beyond 12,000 feet, at that height Glaucium in abundance, +with a few Hyoscyamus parvus, Borago. + +Labiatifol, inciso dentatis occurs throughout, Sinapis of Siah-Sung +straggles to 12,000 feet. + +[Topehee cliffs and ravine: m399.jpg] + +The same vegetation continues down to Topehee; on the red hills over its +ravine, the plants are different. Portulacea cana, several pretty +Salsolae, a Polanisia occurs, with Statice two or three, a straggling +Astragalus, Ferula, Peganum re-appears! Cerasus canus, Carduacea Frutex +of Mailmandah, fructibus combretiformibus, Muscoides which is a Sedum, +Polygon. fruticosum common, the usual plants of cultivation, etc. etc. + +_3rd_.--We proceeded from Topehee to Bamean, a distance of twelve miles, +for two and a half miles down Topehee ravine. The road is a decent +descent, although steepish: from thence turning abruptly at the Bamean +valley, we cross the river, which is of considerable size, but fordable, +although rapid. The road then extends along the left bank, not in the +valley which is occupied by cultivation, but winding over and round the +bases of low hills and cliffs, forming a northern boundary; throughout +this part the road is villainous, often impeded by huge blocks. After a +distance of about ten miles it improves, the valley expanding into a +cultivated plain. + +Topehee valley narrows towards its mouth or exit, which is walled in by +high, red, raviny cliffs; above, in its upper parts it is well cultivated +with beans, barley, wheat, and oats, and contains two villages: it opens +into the Bamean valley at a village also called Topehee, there the Bamean +valley is well cultivated, with oats intermixed with barley or wheat, +trefoil, etc., it then narrows, forming the bed of a ravine occupied by +Hippophae, Tamarisk, etc., then it widens again. + +The structure of the hills is curious, and generally exhibiting the +appearance of having been much acted on by water. They are often cliffy, +composed either of limestone or a soil of red clay, with which salt +occurs in abundance, conspicuous from the white appearance, or springs. +Crystals of carbonate of lime are frequent, limestone, or coarse +conglomerate with large rounded stones, occurs; together with a curious +laminated clayey rock, with white and ochraceous layers intermixed. The +tints most various, as well as the sculpture of the mountains: here +ravines representing tracery occur: there, columnar curiously carved +cliffs, exhibiting all sorts of fantastic forms: here, as it were, a hill +thrown down with numberless blocks into the stream, scattered in every +direction; and here, but this is rare, very red horizontal strata, +colours various, generally rosy, especially the clayey cliffs: here and +there the colour of the rock is ochraceous, at one place its structure is +slaty. The curious intermixture of these colours owing to the weather, +is striking. + +From the head of two of the ravines by which considerable torrents flow +into Bamean river, beautiful views are obtained of the Kohi-Baba, whose +peaks according to native authority, stretch sixty miles to the westward +of Bamean, without much diminution in height. The scenery, however, is +less beautiful after emerging into the widened part of the valley, where +the hills are less varied both in form and tints, than they are in lower +parts: fine views however of Kohi-Baba are occasionally had. + +Salsolae are the prevailing plants of the rocky sides of the valley, +Clematis erecta common, here and there a small Statice. + +Caves occur throughout the wide portion of the valley, but chiefly on the +northern side; they also extend a little way into the narrow portion, +where they seem to be excavated into clayey-looking, red, earthy +limestone, or more commonly conglomerate, of coarse grey, or reddish +colour. + +The caves are most common in two cliffs composed of conglomerate mixed +with transverse strata of the same rock, 3,400 feet high, presenting a +rugged outline; and between the two, which are 800 yards apart, large +idols are carved. These cliffs in some places have suffered little from +the action of the elements, as testified by the perfect nature of the +opening of the caves, and the corners, etc. of the niches enclosing +idols; in others they are furrowed by the action of water; in others +again slips have taken place to such extent in some, as to cause the fall +of all their caves, or of their greater portion, thus exposing the +galleries, etc. + +The base of the cliffs is irregular, formed of the same conglomerate and +clay, but covered more or less by boulders, evidently brought down by the +river; by these many caves are choked up, so that originally the cliff +might have been perpendicular to the edge of the base, and if so, the +caves in the cliffs, and the idols, are of later date than those of the +rugged base. But more probably the cliffs, and the caves, are much as +they were originally, the boulders having been a subsequent deposit. + +The western corner of the cliff beyond the large idol, is much destroyed; +on this, the force of the current would have acted: a breakwater +occurring along the returning face. + +The caves are very numerous, but are confined chiefly towards the base of +the cliffs, not scattered over them as I believe Burnes represents. These +are of no size, finish, or elegance, and it is only their number, and the +extreme obscurity of their history, that makes them interesting; the +roofs are usually arched, and the walls are often supplied with niches, +and covered with a coating of tar of some thickness, and intense +blackness. The galleries are low, arched, and admit one person at a +time, or a line of persons with ease; they often form the ascent to the +upper caves now inhabited, but originally they were enclosed in the rock, +they are defended in such cases by a parapet. + +The largest caves are those about the idols, but I see none of any size. +They are often domed, the spring of the dome is ornamented with a +projecting frieze, some of these are parallelogramic, in one instance +with an ornamented border thus. + +[Part of a frieze in caves near Bamean: m402.jpg] + +Some of the caves are situated as high as, or even above the tops of the +idols; all parts within the rock are lighted by small apertures. + +Access to the large idol is destroyed; the smaller one is gained by a +spiral staircase of rude construction, and by galleries. The floor of +the galleries is rugged, the steps and the cement of the conglomerate +having worn out from between the masses of rock. The images all occupy +niches in the face of the hill: two are gigantic, the rest not very +large. They are generally in the usual sitting posture, and rather high +up, while the larger ones are erect, and reach the base of the cliffy +portion of the rock. They are all male, and all obviously Boodhistical; +witness the breadth, proportion, and shape of the head, and the drapery; +both are damaged, but the smaller is the more perfect, the face of the +large one being removed above the lower lip; the arms are broken off, +showing they were occupied by galleries. The drapery is composed of +plaster, and was fixed on by bolts which have fallen out, leaving the +holes. The arms in the smaller one are supported by the falling drapery. +The height of the large image in the niche is 135 feet. + +The pictures are much damaged, the plaster on which they were painted +being mostly very deficient, all the faces are damaged by bullets or +other missiles: their execution is indifferent, not superior to modern +Burmese paintings; the colours however are good, the figures are either +grouped or single, and one is in the style of the time of Henry VIII, +with a hat and plume, others represent groups flying--one a golden bird, +another a man with a hemispherical helmet, all are much damaged. The +hair in some is dressed as in the modern Burmese top-knot, often +surrounded by a circle. + +Otherwise the niches are not ornamented, except in one instance, as above +alluded to; the head of the smaller figure was formerly covered by the +roof, as evident from holes or troughs for timbers in the gallery. These +holes are now inhabited by pigeons, and the lower ones by cows, donkeys, +fowls, kids, dogs; some are filthy apertures blocked up by stone and mud +walls; the doors irregular, and guarded between two giants. + +An old tope occurs near some small figures, it is composed of stones very +much disintegrated, with curious blocks of _kucha_ work, and large +Babylonish bricks; the smaller figures are much destroyed, some +completely; all are in alto-relievo. + +The plants about Topehee valley, are Cichorium, Centaurea lutea, Berberis +common, Salvia, Cicer cultivated, Lucerne, Centaurea angustifolia, Cnicus +of Koti-Ashruf, ditto of Karabagh hills, Triticum, Asteroides, Avena, +Centaurea glauca, the common thistle, Ephedra, Mentha, Rumex, Melilotus, +Medicago, Artemisia pyramidalis, Lychnis inflata, Saponaria, Bromus, +Verbascum, Cerasus canus, Ferula, Statice, Salsola, Astragalus, Polygonum +fruticosum, Composita dislocata, Clematis erecta, Clematis alia, +Echinops, Leucades, Pulicaria fragrans, Hyoscyamus parvus, rare; +Geranium, Rosa, Fabago of Maidan, fructi echinatis, Arundo, Hippophae. + +Halted at Bamean till the 6th, and inspected Ghoolghoola or Bheiran, +which presents extensive ruins: those of the city are almost destroyed; +but those of the citadel are more perfect, and situated on a mound 300 +feet high, which still stands with steep banks or fortifications, +apparently of Kafir origin, generally _kucha_, with bases formed of +boulders. Three lines of defences remain on the valley side; and the +remains of a ditch 50 feet broad at the mound on the east side. _Pucka_, +or burnt bricks are common among the debris, also pottery, but this is of +the ordinary sort: I observed but few _pucka_ bricks in the fortification +on the west side. Great masses of rocks have been thrown about near the +building of the fort, and some of the lower bastions were built on these +masses. The mound is chiefly occupied by Salsolaceae, some of which +exist in profusion. Nothing seems to be known about the history of the +place, except that it was built by _Julal_, to whom the Mahommedans fix +_Ud-deen_. + +Quails are abundant in the fields about Bamean; it is a curious thing +that in many of these fields oats far preponderate over other grain; yet +they are not cut, although all the seeds have fallen out of the ear! Can +it be cultivated solely for the straw? + +Fine groves of poplars occur about certain portions of the valley; from +beyond this to the south, a beautiful view is obtained, embodying the +cliffs with the large image, and the back hills whose varied surface and +tints it is impossible to describe, so as to convey a correct idea of +their fine effect. The poplar grove contains some ordinary Mahomedan +_tombs_. The trees are the P. heterophylla, but the leaves are much +smaller and more silvery underneath than usual; a beautiful poplar of +large size and unencumbered growth, of the same sort occurs in the ravine +beyond the small image. Abundance of wild sheep's heads are preserved +about all the sanctified buildings, together with a few of those of the +ibex, and fewer of the wild goat. The plants of Bamean require no +specification, the hills are very barren, chiefly occupied by Salsoleae, +of which 6 or 7 species occur. + +The water plants continue the same as at Cabul; Hippurus and Triglochin, +Mentha, Cochlearia, Naiad? Potamogeton of Siah-Sung, Polypogon. + +The other plants are those found in cultivation, and present no change, +Anchusoides alba, abundant. Choughs very abundant; wild pigeons, ravens, +Laurus; the nuthatch, a noisy but not unmusical bird, Chakor, together +with small partridges, but these are rare; several Conirostres. + +The greatest curiosity is a genuine trout, {404} this appears rare, the +spots are very bright, the largest caught was only six pounds in weight. +I could not take any even with the fly; but I caught with this, +Schizothorax, or one of the universal Khorassan Cyprins. + +The range of the thermometer is great; before sunrise it varies from 28 +degrees to 30 degrees! in the sun in midday it is 100 degrees! when there +is no wind, and the mornings are delightful. + +One of the long-tailed clumsy Brachypodiums occurs in the fields: bears +also are found here. + +_Joussa_, Mentha, Tanacetoid, Polypogonum, Cichorium, Plantago, common +thistle, Potamogeton longifolium, Labiata arvensis of Yonutt, Centaurea +lutea, Cyanea angustifolia, Cochlearia, Hippuris, Ranunculus, Potamogeton +pectinata, Triglochin, Convolvulus arvensis, acaulis, Glaux, Capparis of +Arghandab, Centranthera pinnatifida, Malva rotundifolia, Asteroides, +Lactuca purpurea. + +Salt is obtained in some places from the red earth, as also alum an +earthy substance of a whitish or brown colour, and irregular surface, +sent in quantities to Mindosh, called Zak. + +_6th_.--To Zohawk, down the valley two miles beyond the mouth of Topehee +ravine, or embouchure of the Kulloo-Rood. The angle is occupied by a +Kafir fort called Kojhuk, of very large size, situated on a precipitous +dusky-red and very high rock, facing towards both rivers; the defences +reach down the eastern face of rock to the Kulloo bed, and are in good +preservation, more ornamented than the modern fort, and better +proportioned. A pretty grass sward occurs here, with Tamarisk. + +The fort must have been of great size, and is chiefly weak, _i.e_. to a +native army, from depending on the river for supplies of water, for it is +commanded from the opposite sides of either ravine. The bed of the river +under the east face, presents the remains of outworks to protect the +supply of water, which is perhaps a sign of its being a recent structure? + +The works are good, much better than those of the Affghans, the view of +the fort from half a mile down the Bamean river, with the sun gilding the +ruined battlements, while the precipice contrasts with it its dusky-red +colour, is beautiful. + +The Bamean river, especially after receiving the Kulloo-Rood, is of +considerable size, but fordable at the head of most of the rapids, its +course is rapid, and its waters greyish, while those of the Kulloo are +quite colourless; its bed is of some width, presenting a capital road +over green sward, with plenty of willows, Lycium, Hippophae, Berberis, +and Tamarisk. + +About one mile east of our camp, its ravine turns to the south. Wild +ducks, quails, chakor, and trout occur whose haunts are in holes, and +taking the worm are easily caught. + +This fort of Kojhuk is as well worth examining as any place we have seen, +the dusky-red rocks are coarse conglomerate. A violent wind prevails up +the ravine, commencing about 2 P.M. A curious staircase situated at the +corner towards Bamean, ascends through rock, the bottom of which is +defended by a bastion and round wall; near, or close to this a slip has +occurred, destroying part of the wall and blocking up one exit. + +Ascended the cliff by the gateway of the Kulloo valley, and found the +line of fortifications, with good loop-holes and parapets extend two and +a half miles up, a few houses likewise occur. The path leads through the +face of the solid rock: abundant defences, with arched buildings occur +above: this cliff is almost totally separated from the upper citadel by a +ravine: the citadel has four lines of defences surmounting a steep ridge +with outworks on the Kulloo river, the bed of which is 60 yards broad. + +_7th_.--Proceeded to Erak, six miles. We crossed the Kulloo-Rood, and +immediately ascended its right bank, 100 feet high; then descended into +the ravine up which we continued, then leaving it we struck over the spur +of a high mountain; the ascent being about 1,000 feet, thence we +commenced a steep descent, of 5,600 feet into the Erak valley, up which +we proceeded for two miles distance and encamped. From the top of the +pass, a fine view is obtained of Kojhuk, and the valley of the Bamean +river, presenting a rich and varied surface beyond description, with +beautifully sculptured rocks, of purplish-red colour, which are seen up +the Kulloo, close to Kojhuk. + +The hills and ravines are however very barren, nothing but Salsola +occurs. At the top of the pass a section is partly laid open, shewing a +mass of conglomerate, twenty to thirty feet thick, resting on red clay. +This conglomerate being less acted on by water than the clay, the rocks +often assume curious shapes, and are occasionally even fungiform. + +[Sculptured rocks near Kojhuk: m406.jpg] + +We observed here a new partridge, at least one to which we were not +accustomed; it is almost the size of chakor, black on the back, with a +grey neck, and very shy; chakors abundant here in coveys. The valley of +the Erak is very narrow, but well cultivated, and with a good many +villages. + +All the mountains in this direction have rounded shapes or outlines, the +precipices variously curved, the surfaces are thus formed by the action +of water on the outer strata; when this is once exposed, the changes +appear often rapid, as may be imagined in a country of such low winter +temperature. Caves occur in the Erak valley, chiefly situated in a dirty +white conglomerate. + +[Erak ravine: m407.jpg] + +_8th_.--Halted and encamped eight miles up the Erak ravine on a swardy +spot: the road easy, ascent bad in some places, but generally good, +particularly for the latter part of the march: the rocks in some places +rising in abrupt rugged cliffs, generally rounded, slaty. We passed one +mass of snow about two miles from camp, botany good, especially about the +snow; so much so, that it employed me all day. + +Caragana appears at about 10,000 feet, a Tamerioid of large stature in +abundance, Asphodelus, not as I thought a Mesembryanthemum, but a +beautiful and very distinct species; see Catalogue for other plants. + +Our camp is within one and a half mile of the head of the Erak ravine, +where snow occurs in two large masses; patches of snow also occur on the +ridge or a little below it; these ridges rise about 1,200 to 1,500 feet +above us. + +Unsettled evening, snow during night on all the ridges about us with +frozen sleet in camp. Thermometer at 6 A.M. 31 degrees. + +Large round-tailed eagle seen. + +Barometer 20.164, thermometer 61 degrees; boiling point of Wollast. new +thermometer; barometer 650, old ditto 555.3. + +Swardy plants. Parnassia, Swertia, Gentiana, Carices, Composita +coronata, Primula, Labiata, Menthoides, Caprifoliacea! Pedicularis, +Umbelliferae. + +Plants of hill sides Asphodelus, Leguminosae alter, a Nakhood Moschata, +Nakhood Labaria violacea, Mulgedioid, Euphorbia, Astragalus prior, +alter., Pedicularis, Onosma versicolor, Boraginea, stamens exserted. + +_9th_.--Proceeded to Kurzar, eight miles up a ravine to the left or +eastward, about one and a half mile, then the steep ascent of the pass; +thence the descent was as steep for 800 feet, then gradually down a +swardy ravine until we came to the Kurzar ravine, which we followed till +we reached the Choky. The road good; the ascent for 1,000 feet is very +steep, the soil good, hills rounded, here and there slate rocks +outcropping. No change in vegetation. Passed a mass of snow: abundance +of snow on the summit where the mercury in the Bar. stood at 19.200; +thermometer 58 degrees; boiling point of Wollast. new thermometer; Bar. +648.5, old 539.1, this being the highest spot we have visited. + +The vegetation of the summit presents no change from that of the rocks +and hill sides 1,500 feet below. There is a good deal of vegetation, +Carduaceae, Statices, Astragali, a few tufted grasses forming the great +bulk, _Nakhood_ rare on the Kurzar side, 500 feet down, Statice becomes +most abundant, it is curious that on the sward of this side, neither +Fumariaceae, nor Campanula were observed, Silene fimbriata one species. + +Caragana all about, even at Kurzar in ravines; Primula abundant, also +Swertiae, generally all four plants are found at the Hajeeguk snow +ravine, and may be found between this and Erak, with some interesting +novelties. The distance to Bamean by both routes is within two miles of +the same, the Kulloo-Rood being the shorter, but Hajeeguk the best road. +That of the Kulloo river is followed to Zohawk. The weather unsettled +with showers of hail, clouds and sunshine: and heavy gusts of wind +occasionally from Kohi-Baba, whose eastern extremity comes in sight after +entering the _Kurzar_ ravine. No view from the summit of the pass. + +[Pass between Erak and Kurzar: m408.jpg] + +Pedicularis, Campanula, Rubiaceae, Hippuris in flower, Phleum, Carduacea +of Yonutt, Cnicus of Koti-Ashruf, Pulmonaria, corolla tubiform. Euphorbia +linearifolia, Composita dislocata, Cardamina lutea. + +_10th_.--Proceeded to the Helmund, thirteen and a half miles; the only +novelty met with is a curious spring about half-way between Siah-Sung +halting place, and the Helmund consisting of limpid water emitting a +copious ebullition of gas, not water, as the overflow is very small; a +copious deposition of fine red earth is formed all round, which looks +especially bright in the springs themselves. The water possesses a +peculiar acid taste. + +Quails abundant, especially about this place, the water of the Helmund is +very clear and affords excellent fishing with worms which are greedily +taken, and also with the fly, particularly towards evening, by a species +of Gonorhynchus. + +_11th_.--Returned to the foot of the ascent of the Oonnoo, nine miles: +nothing new having been met with, except that Kohi-Baba is seen to great +advantage, from the higher ridges of this pass. On going to Bamean we +saw it for the first time from the ridges beyond Yonutt, badly from the +first, but beautifully from the second ridge. The weather continues as +usual threatening in the evening, clearing up after sunset: there is less +snow on Kohi-Baba now than when we went. + +_12th_.--Proceeded to Sir-i-Chushme, eight miles, which was one continued +descent. Passed Killa Moostaffur Khan, built by a Kuzzilbash; it is the +prettiest fort in the country. The common Carduacea disappears below +9,500 feet, Cnicus of Koti-Ashruf commences here. + +Temperature of the spring at Sir-i-Chushme, 55 degrees (1.5 P.M.); that +at Kallo, on the other side of Hajeeguk, 45 degrees. + +All crops are cut, and the ground ploughed or preparing; in one place the +young wheat is springing up; but the country generally looks very brown, +and the hills small. Abundance of black teal. Plectranthus reappears at +the foot of Oonnoo, Verbascum rare, if any, on the Tartary side of the +Hindoo-koosh. Abundance of Loaches or Balitora in the streamlets arising +from the springs. + +13th.--Proceeded to Julraiz, eight and a half miles, having passed a +waterfall, as well as abundance of people going to Jallalabad. Bar. +22.760 at noon; Ther. 75 degrees. + +14th.--Proceeded to Koti-Ashruf, where there is excellent fishing with +worms, the fish however did not take a fly, though they often appeared at +the surface: a large headed Silurus occurs, but I was unable to procure a +specimen. + +15th.--Proceeded to Arghundee, where we met the Bamean force. + +16th.--Proceeded to Topehee Bashee. + +17th.--Returned to Cabul. Eryngium is rare between the foot of Oonnoo +and Moostaffur Khan's fort. + + + +CHAPTER XVII. + + +_From Cabul to Jallalabad and Peshawur_. + +_October 7th_.--Proceeded to Bhootkhak, nine and a half miles from +Cabul, and seven from our camp: the direction lay easterly. A canal and +a river were both crossed by bridges, the latter of stone, but much +needing repairs: the country generally marshy: the marshes were crossed +by a causeway of stones, rough and broken here and there. The road is +one apparent continued slope to this, but the Barometer gives no +indication of any difference of level. The march proving uninteresting, +and the country an uniform brown and barren tract. + +_8th_.--Proceeded to Koord Cabul valley, the distance of which from the +place we left being eleven miles: first having rounded a spur extending +from the south boundary of Cabul valley, we then entered a narrow ravine, +chiefly occupied by a small stream, which we crossed several times. The +mountains being chiefly of limestone, then becoming slaty, very +precipitous, rugged, and barren; on emerging from this very tedious +ravine, we entered on some sward with plenty of Tamarisk, and Salix +vimenea. Koord Cabul valley is a frightfully barren, and very stony +place; the chief vegetation of the valley, as also of the ravine, being +Artemisiae, in which there is abundance of Carduacea subspicata from +Baber's tomb. + +The road throughout is indifferent, but only so from the stones, the +largest of which would require removal, and there are not more than two +or three difficult rocks in the way, these however might be avoided by +keeping in the bed of the stream. There are two ruined stone walls +thrown across the ravine, the remains merely of the very few villages of +Koord Cabul. A high truncated mountain stands to the south, on which +some patches of snow are visible. + +The mountain forming the east wall of the ravine is the subconical one, +seen to such advantage from Arghundee, it is of limestone, quite +precipitous, with a few large bushes of, I do not know what; none of them +being within reach,--Ilex, and _Cupressus_. + +_9th_.--To Tazeen, the road for seven miles extends over somewhat +undulated ground, generally good; but here and there stony, with a +gradual but almost imperceptible ascent, until the top of the pass is +reached; from this, the view of Tazeen valley, and the summit of the +Sofaid-Koh is good. + +Thence the road extends over ascents and descents, three of which have +considerable, and stony inclinations, then it enters the ravine drained +by a small stream, and continues down it until we enter Tazeen valley. + +Two streams are passed in the ascent; the first, near the former halting +place, flowing, where it is crossed, between slaty cliffs of no height; +the second one, small, frozen, and not sufficient to supply a large +party: there is however a spring a short way below the summit, although +very small. Temperature 58 degrees. The rocks forming the narrow ravine +are very rough and slaty: limestones presenting the usual characters. + +This march has been said to present a very bad road, but it is not the +case, at least in comparison with many of the Affghan roads, distance +twelve and a half miles, the time it takes for camels to perform the +journey is six hours. The road, where not stony, is very well beaten. + +No change is observed in the features of the country until the opposite +side of Tazeen valley is seen, and the summit of the Sofaid-Koh: here, +wonderful to relate! are abundance of firs extending down and along the +ridge to some distance, but not forming forests. + +Otherwise the vegetation consists of Senecionoides, _Astragali_, _Rosa_, +Statice 2-3, Artemisiae, and Plectranthus, which last is very common in +the ravine leading to Tazeen valley, which is drained by a small stream. +Here also Carduacea, and Onosmoid angustifolia occur! + +In this ravine, Xanthoxylon of Kojhuk, a willow, Rosa, and a distinct +Ilex, occur, forming chiefly a shrubby vegetation. Ilex is also, so far +as can be judged from appearance, the bushy thing seen on the limestone +hill at our last halt, also Cupressus, a fine specimen of which I found +on limestone at about the height of the top of the pass, (22.76 Bar.) +Ther. 60 degrees, with a very small Spiraea. + +The large-winged vultures of Arghundee are common here. Some ruined +villages were passed, a mosque stood near one of these, two and a half +miles from last halt, little cultivation in the Tazeen valley, and in the +centre of this, two villages with orchards are visible. + +[Pass between Koord Cabul and Tazeen: m411.jpg] + +_9th_.--Tried to get to the firs, but failed. + +The lower hills, and indeed the range between the valley and the fir +range, are conglomerate, easily disintegrated, then limestone, which +often occurs quite vertical. Some of the hills are red, others brown, in +one instance the coloured substance is interposed between strata of +limestone, which last have alone withstood the effects of climate, this +range is as high as the Koord Cabul pass. + +Ilex very common, and much used for charcoal, the trunk being eight to +ten inches in diameter; almost all are pollarded. Pomacea common at 500 +feet above this, Plectranthus, Senecionoides. + +Artemisiae, Astragali, Statices, Rosa, bastard indigo, Cerasus. The +orchards are now assuming their autumnal tint, Salvia pinnata, Canus +aliusque, _Ruwash_. Chough, ravens, nuthatch, and chakor here occur. +Heavy snow is observed on the eastern portions of Hindoo-koosh, which are +quite barren. The best way to the fir tract I find on enquiry will be to +follow the bed of the stream up to it. Fields are being now ploughed and +sown. Thermopsides very common here in old cultivation: it affords +decent fodder for camels. + +_10th_.--To Barikab, distance ten and a half miles; the road extending +down the Tazeen ravine, over a tract with a considerable descent for +about nine miles; on passing a long dark looking rock and its spur, the +road then leaves the bed, and ascends over low undulations of easily +detachable conglomerate, and sand; then a short but rather steep ascent +occurs for 200 feet, passing over an easily friable sandstone, either +existing as grains slightly adherent, or caked; thence the descent passes +over the preceding sort of conglomerate, to an abominably barren ravine, +drained by a very small stream. + +The road only once leaves the bed of this ravine, but soon rejoins it +before finally turning off. + +The mountains present the same features; where no outcrop of strata +occurs, they are rounded, brown, and very barren, with here and there an +Ilex; towards the end of the raviny part in one or two places, more wood +than usual occurs, forming scattered thickets. Fraxinus, the older +branches of which have much smaller leaves, Thymelia of Chiltera, Cerasus +canus, and alius, Senecionoides, Compositae, Artemisiae, Polygonum +frutescens, which last is not uncommon throughout. Equisetoides becomes +common towards the black rock. + +Where the road turns off from the ravine, a _Khubar_ or tope occurs, +shaded with two or three large Xanthoxyleae now in fruit, called +_Khinjuk_. + +Snow visible from Barikab to the north, but generally in ravines. The +country continues abominably barren, we passed the entrance of the +Lutabund pass, near the black rock, but without seeing it: no difficulty +occurs on the road, except from the jolting of stones. There is however +no forage to be had at the halt, and but little fodder. A sprinkling of +holly-looking bushes are seen extending over the lower ranges of Hindoo- +koosh. + +_11th_.--Jugdulluck, ten and a half miles from our last encampment; on +leaving Barikab we commenced ascending, winding over undulating ground +for a short distance, until we reached the main ascent, which is short, +but moderately steep: thence we descended steeply for perhaps 500 feet, +hitherto the road extended over sand hills, with quantities of stones. On +reaching the foot of the steep descent, we then descended gradually over +a long stony inclined plane, then entered undulating ground, descending +from which the road took us over a small stream, which we followed up, +soon entering a gorge, up which we continued till we reached Jugdulluck. +This gorge is the finest and boldest we have seen, the rocks forming +precipitous cliffs 2,400 feet high, which often hem in the road, and +confine it to a breadth of a few feet, sufficient merely for a gun to +pass. + +On emerging from this we reached the tope of Jugdulluck, now a grove of +mulberry trees, surrounded by the remains of a wall. + +The country, until we entered the gorge, presented the same features as +before, being frightfully barren. Passed a spring of water at the foot +of the main descent where there is level ground sufficient for a small +party, afterwards we passed a smaller spring containing less water, but +situated in much better ground than Barikab. + +The vegetation of undulated ground continues unchanged, very poor and +stunted; in ravines below the main descent, Stipa is very common; in +others, a large Andropogon occurs near the mouth of the gorge along the +bed of the river, also _Jhow_ in patches, and one patch of Donax. + +The vegetation of the gorge is more varied; two small trees occur, one +the _Khinjuk_, and it is the commonest, the other a Terebinthacea; +Thymelaea of Chiltera is common, Ephedra, Ilex occurs but is less common +than on hills. + +Along the water to which it gives exit, and which is abundant, the usual +Cyperaceae, Junceae, Gnaphalium, Potentilla, and Epilobium occur as at +Cabul; the place is chiefly remarkable for two or three Saccharoid +grasses, Stipa common, Polypogon, Donax, Dracocephala of Quettah and the +Bolan pass, Spiraea, Typha, young Tamarisks. + +Chakor, large vulture, ravens; a woodcock rose from a dripping rock, +covered with a tropical Andropogon in dense patches. Adiantum, Rubus, +Erythrea, Labiatae two, common; Salix. + +The gorge appears to be a distinct formation of sandstone, slate, and +limestone: on the way to it, we continued over the sand and conglomerate +hill, which again recur at Jugdulluck, with plenty of Holly. + +The Sofaid-Koh is visible from the main ridge: it is a ridge running +perhaps SW. to NE., tolerably covered with snow, as barren as any others: +a few fir trees are found in the direction of Tazeen: are these confined +to the sandstone formation? little grass, a few rice fields, bad forage. + +[Pass and gorge, Barikab to Jugdulluck: m414.jpg] + +_12th_.--Halted at Jugdulluck. Small partridges are common: observed a +curious Certhioid creeper, whose flight is like that of the Hoopoe; it is +scandent over rocks. + +_13th_.--To Soorkhab, twelve and a half miles over a similar country: +region of Hollys continues; we first passed up a ravine, then over +undulating ground, until the summit of the pass is reached. From this a +fine view of Sofaid-Koh is obtained, the lower ranges in some places +being black with firs; thence a continued descent, varied here and there +by small ascents over undulating ground, we at length came to a ravine +filled with bulrushes: we followed this, leaving it near the halting +place, and winding over rocky ground and a bad road, we descended to the +bed of the river. The road good, though stony here and there, but +nowhere so, to such an extent, as the previous marches. + +Hills precisely similar to those already passed, either sandy, easily +friable, or conglomerate, held together by sandy cement. Vegetation +continues the same; _Baloot_, or oak, is said to be abundant though I did +not see it; Daphne, and Xanthoxylon, compose the chief shrubby +vegetation; Saccharum here and there. Small partridge very common. The +greatest ascent is 5,600 feet. No grass for forage; several very small +streamlets were passed en route, so that a small party might halt +anywhere. + +[Ascent and descent Jugdulluck to Soorkhab: m415.jpg] + +The beautiful Himalaya looking range Sofaid-Koh, runs east and west; it +is very high, in the back ranges with very heavy snow on both ridges, and +peaks. The view from the pass shows a rapid fall in the country to the +eastward, which still continues hilly, and very very bare. Large coarse +grapes are had here, also pomegranates: some _seedless_ rice cultivation +occurs since we descended to Jugdulluck. + +_14th_.--We proceeded nine and a quarter miles, throughout until reaching +a grove near Gundamuck: the road lay over undulating ground, is more +sandy than stony, and in two or three places it is raviny, and requires +to be made. Then the road emerges into a fine sort of valley, dipping +down to a small stream with many sedges. In the bed of the stream, +willows occur, and mulberries about it: we then ascended and halted just +beyond the ascent. Water and _dhoob_ grass are both plentiful, as well +as supplies of grain, pomegranates, and grapes, as yesterday; _Bajree_. + +A fine view is obtained of Sofaid-Koh, which forms the southern boundary +of the valley; many villages, with cultivation in a very sandy soil. +Small partridge very abundant. A fox observed. The ravines wherever +there is water, crowded with Typha, and Saccharum; oaks are seen in +abundance on the mountain to the south; left the Soorkhab river after +fording it near yesterday's camp; the bridge is quite useless for cattle, +as the ground is rocky and broken on this side, no pains having been +taken to carry the work to the road; cypresses, planes and mulberry trees +in the gardens: Cannabis, also one patch of cotton cultivation was +passed. + +No descent, but rather small ascent on the whole, say 200 feet, the +ascent from the principal nullah crossed being equal, though much shorter +than the descent to it. + +[Soorkhab to Gundamuck: m416.jpg] + +_15th_.--We halted: many rivulets descend near us from the Sofaid-Koh; +and the water in these is beautifully clear; many villages and mills with +several beautiful spots occur, well shaded with trees, poplars, +mulberries, and figs. The objects of cultivation are millet, +Indian-corn, rice, and wheat; this last just sprung up: many _bedanah_ +pomegranates, but none I think of superior quality. + +All the low hills here, and indeed between us and the boundary ranges of +the valley, are of sandstone, generally very slightly held together, here +and there more firm, and distinctly stratified towards the upper surface. +The surface consists of conglomerate, formed of boulders imbedded in the +same kind of sandstone as that below; often very friable, occasionally it +is as hard as flint. In the sandstone below, a few stones occur here and +there; but I saw no fossils. The upper surface of these hills is +remarkably stony, all the stones being more or less rounded. + +Several new plants were found in these ravines, a Lythrum, a very +aromatic species of Compositae, Samolus in some of the swamps with Typha, +which swarms in every ravine and ravinelet, Rubus, Clematis, Bergia, +Ammannia, Lythraria, Chara, Xanthium. + +The plants of tropical forms are, Celosia of Digera! Polanisia, +Andropogons, two or three. + +The tropical cultivation consists of cotton, the usual annual sort; +Indian-corn, Pennisetum, and rice. + +The fish are, four kinds of Cyprinidae, including one Oreinus, and one +loach. + +_16th_.--Proceeded to Futtehabad, eleven and a half miles. The road +leaves the valley after crossing a stream with a ruined bridge, like that +at Soorkhab, but of two arches, and ascending a little way, then winding +along over undulating very stony ground; this continues until we descend +steeply and along the Neemla valley, a mere ravine, historically +interesting, as the field on which Shah Soojah lost his kingdom in 1809, +and for a fine tope of trees: then crossing a streamlet, we ascend a +little way over sandstone, then another stream, which we follow for 500 +yards, and ascending a little, we proceed thence to camp, along a slight +slope of very stony, generally _very level_ ground, where we halted on +a rivulet with a wide grassy bed, Lythrum growing around. + +[Gundamuck to Futtehabad: m417.jpg] + +No change appears in the vegetation: the surface very barren in stony +parts, chiefly Artemisia, Saccharum, Andropogon albus, in ravines, +Capparis common, also AErua and Lycionoides. + +The northern boundary of the valley is comparatively low, and from Sofaid- +Koh to this is an uniform slope, broken by ravines; here and there by +small hills; ravines occasionally dilating into small valleys, the only +parts in which cultivation is to be seen. This is so far different from +the usual formation where the valleys occupy the level tract between the +slopes from either boundary range. Neemla is a very confined space for +any thing like the battle said to have taken place here, the rising +grounds inclosing the small space being too much broken for cavalry. + +The rocks consist of conglomerate at top, below sandstone, layers of both +alternating near the surface: a break occurs (nearly opposite) in the +hills, this break is minutely undulated. {417} Rock pigeons were seen on +the march by Thomson, and small partridges. I find that though to our +senses there was comparatively but little descent, that the barometer and +thermometer indicate one of 1,500 feet. The Neemla river must be the +boundary between the hot and cold countries alluded to by Burnes. + +In spite of this descent, and our small altitude, about 3,000 feet, but +little change if any occurs in the vegetation, and none in the general +features of the country; the Apocynea of Dadur and Bolai (Nerioides) has +re-appeared. + +At this season (October), throughout the way we came from Cabul, there is +a curious white efflorescence covering the Shootur Kari, I do not know +what it is, but it is not Conferva. A good deal of forest is seen on +some of the ranges to the north of this, bearing from camp about NNE., +certainly not firs, perhaps oaks. + +_19th_.--Yesterday we went to the Soorkhab, which runs east and west +along the northern boundary of the valley; half the distance down the bed +of this stream the ground is strewed with boulders, thence to the hills, +and excepting the bed of the Soorkhab, is one sheet of cultivation, +consisting of large quantities of cotton and sugar-cane, this latter of +small size, and not very juicy, castor-oil plant, Corchorus (_Pat_), +_Sun_, Tel., radish, and among the other plants cultivated, the Mudar is +common: Nerioides of Dadur; Epilobium sp. is the chief Boreal form. This +is one of the richest districts I have seen. + +Trees--Bukkhien, {418} _Furas_, Ficus, Cupressus, with much rice +cultivation. + +The vines are trained on mulberries, as Burnes says, or the Lilyoak. +Pomegranates are also to be mentioned among the fruits of this place. + +The Soorkhab river is not seen after leaving the place of the same name; +after it crosses the road, it runs due north through the mountains, in a +narrow, almost inaccessible bed; its waters are of a reddish colour. + +The villages here are larger, and not so fortified as those about Cabul. +Balabagh stands on a high bank of conglomerate, overhanging the Soorkhab, +and is in danger of being cut away by the river. The peasantry are +civil, and unarmed. Ravens, quails, _minas_, sparrows, and a beautiful +swallow were seen about the Soorkhab river; the latter, with metallic +blue on the back of the head, crown of head tawny, tail short, two +exterior feathers elongated into beautiful almost setaceous bodies, +exceeding the length of the bird. This swallow, or one with a similar +tail, was seen by Sanders on the Helmund, at Girishk. + +_20th_.--We proceeded to Sultanpore, eight and a half miles, passed +Futtehabad, thence a gradual descent over a very stony slope to the +halting place, where the valley becomes narrow, and water plentiful in a +small stream. Willows, mulberries, ashes. Two large pollards at +Futtehabad. + +The vegetation consists of Gramineae in patches, AErua Nerioides, and +Mudar. + +Sultanpore, is a village of some size, situated about a mile north from +the road, and contains many Hindoos. All villages here crowded with +highish two or three-storied houses, something like Shikarpore: they are +surrounded with gardens and mud walls, apricots, mulberries, greengages, +pomegranates in profusion; the cultivation very rich as yesterday, and +there is an air of repose about the villages unusual in this country. +Tobacco. The rice-pounder or _dekhee_ I observe is here lifted by +treading on it with the foot, as in Hindoostan. The country hereabout, +has the advantage of being well watered. _Isain_, Dolichos sp. occurs. + +Trees as before: the plane flourishes, fine ones were seen growing around +a Hindoo Zearut, where there is a double spring of water with a copious +ebullition of gas. The temperature of this is said to be hot in winter. +Salsola common, _Joussa_, a curious Ericoid plant was observed, Typha +angustifolia, latifolia ceased since we left Gundamuck; Isachne, +Pulicaria, Epilobium, Sagittaria, Cyperaceae, Marsilea! Polygonum, +Ranunculus sceleratus, Lythrum, Lemna, Alisma, Menthoid, a Cuscuta common +on cotton plants, as at Futtehabad, several tropical grasses, Aristida, +Poa, and Andropogon appear. + +Descent though almost unappreciable, yet amounts to 1,000 feet. Bulbul +and Parus common, as well as doves and ravens; quails are scarce. + +_21st_.--To Jallalabad, eight and a half miles, the road keeping along +the southern edge of the valley, occasionally extending over small +undulations sometimes stony, more often sandy. + +Typha latifolia occurs in profusion along parts of Futtehabad nullah, +general features the same otherwise, AErua and Nerioid are common on +stony parts, and fewer coarse grasses. + +Cypresses in gardens, also _khujoors_. Starlings. + +The entrance to Jallalabad, or rather to its suburbs, presents the usual +desolate, disorderly appearance, of such places in this country; the +ruined walls to the city; the sandy barren soil, and the odious looking +low hills between it and the Sofaid-Koh, present as sad and melancholy a +picture as could well be met with. The same desolate, disorderly, dirty +appearance is to be met with in most Asiatic capitals, particularly those +that have been subjected to independent misrule: while the more distant +surrounding villages look cheerful, and as clean as can be expected: the +appearances immediately around the chief towns are always bad. To what +is this owing? is it to their being more completely under the thumb of a +rapacious governor? to the insecurity of property, or to defect in the +laws? or to all these causes together? + +At Cabul it was just the same, particularly on the Peshawur side, where +stagnant pools, half destroyed mosques, and mutilated trees present a +total contrast to the smiling valley of Kilah-i-Kajee. + +At Shikarpore the same. + +The most common fruit tree in the gardens here is a sweet lime: grapes +are brought in from the villages of Sofaid-Koh, they are the same sort as +those at Gundamuck: Narcissus, Rosa, Cerasi sp., Mirabilis, stock, +Cupressus, mulberry also in gardens, _Bheir_ of waste places, Salsola, +Artemisiae, two or three: Kochia villosa, Peganum, AErua, Croton of +Candahar, Ricinus, _Joussa_ of wet places, Lippia, Typha latifolia, +angustif., Azolla, Riccia, Cyperaceae, several Lythrarieae, Potamogeton, +three species. The fish here will not take a fly, and the bottoms are +too foul and stony for worm-fishing, the largest sort of fish is somewhat +like a Barbel. Jackdaws and Corvus, alter atratus, dorso ventre griseo: +very few quails. _Furas_ common. + +_27th_.--To Ali-Baghan, distance six and a half miles, road winding, +generally good: after it crossed the dry bed of the nullah, it then +becomes rather undulated extending over raviny ground; it then crosses +the broad bed of the stream, in which there are swarms of bulrushes, then +the same sort of sandy ground leads to camp, which is near the village +Ali-Baghan. + +The river here is much increased, much more deep; banks alluvial, steep; +soil deep. Chenopodium sp., very common, but too much eaten up to be +recognized, also Salsolae sp. + +Nothing new observed. We passed the break above-mentioned in the +northern hills, whence issues the Coomur Nuddee. Serratuloides very +common in sandy undulations. Porcupines and foxes. Beds of grass in +islands of the river Barikab. + +_28th_.--We proceeded to Bankok, twelve and a half miles from the +encamping ground, having turned nearly due south, in order to avoid the +slope, which is seen in this direction from Jallalabad; then a valley, +with low hills on either side, is passed; then the road ascends over +undulating ground, until 500 feet is gained; then a long and gradual +descent is traversed over a very stony plateau. + +No water nor cultivation on the road, nothing can exceed its barrenness. +AErua Nerioides, Lycioides, Andropogon albus, are the principal plants on +the plateau; Kochia common, and a few straggling _Bheirs_, small rock +pigeons. Geology unchanged, sandstone and conglomerate, with enormous +boulders. + +We passed the gorge through which the Cabul river runs. The road, by +this is said to be only six miles, but is only passable by pedestrians +and horsemen. + +One village of some size is situated in the south towards Sofaid-Koh; +from the plateau as well as from our camp, a curious and characteristic +scene is visible to the north, showing a barren lofty range with peculiar +undulations at the base, as well as the isolated hills jutting up above +its surface: the trees and villages being confined to the course of the +river which may be thus traced by its fertility. In this last direction +there is a good deal of _Abadi_, but nothing comparable to that about +Jallalabad. + +At camp Serratuloid australasicus, very common, as indeed it was +yesterday; _foliis verticalibus_ in consequence of both surfaces being +stomatose, the base of the leaf is so twisted as to present each surface +equally to the light. It is curious that all such leaves have the veins +prominent on both surfaces, showing a relation between the veins and the +stomata, the more stomata the larger veins. + +_29th_.--To Bassoollah, eight and a half miles, the road for guns is good +throughout; better perhaps than any yet met with, from the soil being +sandy. We came by a straighter road, and a very bad one, instead of +diverging to the south, and rounding a range of hills, we entered these, +and passing through a gorge coming upon marshy ground, running for some +distance along the Cabul river, to which we were here quite close. Passed +several villages about the mouth of the gorge, which is a short one. + +The general features of the country continue the same; we crossed a +nullah near the camp, and another near the gorge, six miles from camp, +towards this last, grass covers the plains, though of a coarse kind; AErua +Nerioides most common on the barren ground. + +We observed on the way a new Pterocles, and passed an old tope situated +on a low ridge. + +The gorge is rather pretty; the Cabul river runs close, along the foot of +a range, forming the northern boundary of the place, where Bassoollah is +situated, this is also a pretty place, with much good grassy ground for +encamping on. + +The country under Sofaid-Koh presents a long strip of cultivation, with +many villages: hills barrener than ever, chiefly limestone. Very little +snow here observed as on the eastern face of the high peaks of Sofaid- +Koh, compared with the quantity visible on the face towards Jallalabad. + +About half-past two, a slight shock of an earthquake was felt, presenting +a rumbling noise, very audible, proceeding from east to west. + +Between the village and the river, an extensive strip of level land +occurs, with sandy soil well adapted to rice, of which quantities are +grown. The crops are now ready for the sickle, and some partly cut: much +of this land is occupied by a marsh choked with bulrushes of both sorts, +Typha latifolia being the most common; Cyperaceae abound, Marsilea in +profusion, Azolla, Mentha, Epilobii sp. as before, Lemna, Valisneria +_verticillata_? Sium., Sagittaria, Pulicaria, Chara, Lippia, Monniera, +_Jhow_. + +The river runs close under the hills, which are very barren, its course +is rapid, cataracts also are of frequent occurrence transmitting a great +body of water; no fish are visible. Some cotton and maize and _Toot_ +cultivation. _Furas_ the only trees. + +The mountains slope off from Sofaid-Koh in distinct groups, and are seen +to advantage, broken in some places into undulations: about the centre of +the slope an irregular strip of village forts and cultivation is +extended. The course of the Cabul river in many places is curious; +flowing between singularly round ranges. Snipe common; quail rare. +Erythraea common on moist sward. + +_30th_.--Proceeded to Lalpore, the country undulating, the road skirting +the stony portions of the plain is bad to Hizarnow, three miles from +thence it is very stony, thence continuing on the skirts of the hills, +which are principally slate, and passing through a small ravine, it then +extends over sandy or stony ground, until the Chota Khyber is reached: +this is a narrow, but short, and not very steep pass; slate rocks compose +the upper parts, and are entirely disintegrated, thence they descend at +once into the plain opposite Lalpore; the distance of the march is eleven +miles, the road generally decent. + +Much rice cultivation occurs, and much land, it must be confessed, also +occupied by marshy ground, Typha, etc. The same plants continue; Butomus +trigonifolius not uncommon. + +On the slate rocks of Buttencote Kochia recurs, Heliotropium luteum, +Nerioides, and Lycioides of Shikarpore are found. + +Near Hizarnow, Serissa, Acaciae sp., which is the black wood of Madras; +Sissoo, and _Bheirs_. Hizarnow is a large place, curiously occupying +receding slopes of the base of a low range of hills, but it must be +dreadfully hot. We passed several _Kaburistans_ with pollarded, stunted, +excavated _Furas_ trees. One mile before Hizarnow, a curious hill of +slate occurred, covered with boulders. + +The road is very winding in consequence of its following the bases of the +hills forming the southern boundary of the valley. The Cabul river is +visible almost throughout the whole march. + +All houses in the villages are now roofed in this part of the country +with straw. Starlings observed in swarms. + +_31st_.--Halted at Lalpore, this is a very busy large place: the houses +are one-storied, and flat-roofed. The only peculiarity being occasional +square towers. The river is here quite open for commerce downwards, and +is well adapted to small canoes: the stream is rapid and crossed by a +ferry. + +On rocks under which the river flows near this, a species of Fissidens +occurs, where the rocky surface has passed into sand. Glycyrrhiza, +Rubus, Artemisia, Asparagus, Pommereulla, Andropogon albus, Arundo, +Cyrthandracea, an Hyoscyamus of the Bolan Pass, Beebee Nanee, +Heliotropium flavum. + +It would be curious to enquire why the powers of variation change so +completely in the different families? Thus for instance in Orchideae, no +character can be taken from the vegetation with some limitations, and +none from the fruit or seeds; two products in most orders very fruitful +in discriminating marks. This leads one to the idea that in +monocotyledonous plants, the fruit is very generally of limited powers of +variation; witness Orchideae, Gramineae, Smilacineae, etc. this idea +deserves to be followed out as much as possible. The river at the ferry +is 100 yards wide, and twelve feet in the deepest part, the current five +miles an hour, but confined to one and a half towards its centre. + +_November 1st_.--Marched ten miles: the road from the camp extended up +an acclivity, the ground becoming more broken than usual to the mouth of +the ghat, which is four miles distant; thence up to the ghat which +resembles much the Bolan Pass, it extends up an inclined plane over a +shingly road. The ghat is rather wide throughout, and all the features +are the same as the Bolan Pass, slate rocks most common. We passed on +the way a large and a deep but dry well, ascribed to the _kafirs_; and +near it the ruins of a fort built half-way up a small mountain, the top +of which is level with the ghat. + +Vegetation to the ghat unchanged. In the ghat Capparis as before, +Lycioides, Chamaerops, Andropog. albus, Schaenanthus, _Bheir_, Nerioides, +Pommereullioid, Andropogonea, appear at once, AErua, Asparagus. + +At 300 feet up, Mimosae sp., foliis tomentosis, occurring here and there. +Heliotropium flavum, Plectranthus lavandulosus, Scrophulariae sp. + +At 500 feet, Dodonaea: this is very common, and being very green, gives +the ghat a pretty appearance. + +At 600 feet, a curious pomaceous looking Rhamnaceous plant is found. + +The most common plants are Nerioides, Andropogon albus, _Bheir_, +Chamaerops, Dodonaea. + +The bed of the ghat is formed of debris from the boundary hills, this bed +is very thick, and the particles have the appearance of being carried to +their present situation by water. + +Our halting place is a confined irregular piece of ground, water +abundant, but no grass, except coarse Andropogon; no fodder, except +_Bheir_ and Mimosa. + +I ascended in the evening the ridge to the south, and which is 1,200 feet +above the road, to the ruins that run along the summit. The ridge, like +all others in this neighbourhood, is rugged and much distorted, the top +is limestone, much varied and weathered; then slate masses of greenstone +occur towards the base. + +The vegetation is chiefly at the summit. Schaenanthus, Periploca, +Dodonaea, an arbuscula nova, Euonymus, Chenopodiaceae. Below this, (but +the elevation is scarcely sufficient to form any difference,) and along +the water, Euonymus, Adhatoda, Buddlaea cana or Syringia, Rhamnacea, +Periplocea, Linaria, Labiatae, 2-3, Pistacea, Roylea, Acanthoides, +_Urticea_! habitu, U. penduliflorae, Vitex, Convolvulus spinosus of +Bolan, Sempervivum, Stapelioides used as a vegetable, and for fever by +Hindoos, Artemisiae, Solanum sp. + +Along water, Adiantum, Mentha, Epilobium, Verbena officinalis, Solanum +nigrum, Jacquinifol. pinnatif. spinosus about cultivation. + +On slaty rocks which form the bed of the ravine or ghat, Dodonaea, +Hyoscyamus, and Cyrthandracea are found. + +The building consists of a wall near the edge of a ridge, which +terminates some twenty feet from the steep precipice of 300 to 500 feet: +it is 200 to 300 yards in length, and is terminated at either end by two +towers, both of which are ruinous, it is built of slabs and rough blocks +of limestone, between which are layers of slate, much like the Bactrian +pillar, and very superior to modern buildings: what its use was, it would +be difficult to conjecture as it is out of musket shot of the ghat, which +it only commands by being above it. There is no water on the top, nor is +there any well-marked path up to it: curious mortar-like excavations were +observed in a mass of limestone just below, probably for pounding rice. +Up the ravine are remains of terraces formerly used for cultivation, but +now mostly disused. At 700 to 800 feet above the ghat the ravine abounds +with the Ficus of Gundamuck; this and the Adhatoda or _Rooss_ are perhaps +cultivated: the ravine is pretty well entangled with Ficus and brushwood. +It consists of metamorphosed rocks and excavated limestone; some mosses +occur, and Adiantum abounding. + +From the ridge, a rather extensive view to the south is obtained, +extending to the Khyber fort, which is of the ordinary square form, and +just below it, a tower and house. To the east, and all around a good +deal of cultivation occurs; also several high ridges, say 7,000 feet; one +terminating 4,000 feet above us, presents a very rugged outline with the +appearance of rather large trees. The road up to the ghat is visible, as +well as the _Choky_ and a fort, with a small sheet of cultivation to the +eastward. Beyond this a ravine, then two other ridges, of which the +nearer one is high. The Cabul river passes to the NNW., and Lalpoor lies +to the north. One peak and a small piece of ridge of Hindoo-koosh, white +with snow, is seen very distinctly though distant, it must therefore be +very lofty; far more so than any part we have seen to the westward. + +[Khyber Pass: p425.jpg] + +_Description of the annexed map of the Khyber Pass_. + +A. Kumdhukta. By this is Abkhanah route. + +B. Little Khyber ghat, on Peshawur side. + +C. Khyber ghat, entrance on the Jallalabad side. + +D. Kurraha route. + +E. Direction of Sofaid-Koh in the distance. + +F. Flagstaff in the middle of the Pass. + +The ground between the dotted lines and river, on the south, is, or has +been cultivated. The ground near the river on the north side is covered +here and there with brown grass. About the Flagstaff, sand and short +dried up grass occur. + +The general character of the hills in every direction except the snowy +range, is bluffly rounded, very bare, and brown, with here and there a +shrub. + +That which Burnes calls Noorgil, is the range of Kareaz, and is distinct +from Koonur. Kashgur lies beyond the snowy range. + +The inhabitants of the mountains, like those of Lalpoor, wear sandals +made of the fibres of Chamaerops, which is common: one plant of Ephedra +used _for snuff_? + +_3rd_.--Proceeded to one mile beyond Ali-Musjid. The ascent commences +immediately where the _Choky_ is seen from the camp, by a very good road +cut out of slate rock; the rocks are steep on both sides, and very zig- +zag; a short partial descent in one place occurs to a small pool of +water. From the _Choky_, a descent takes place by a similar road for +perhaps two miles, until the ravine which we left at camp is turned; this +is thence followed, occasionally leaving it where the road is bad and +runs through low rugged hills. The road then after passing some of the +old ruins opens out into a space with cultivation. Close to this is the +highest spot of the pass, surrounded by low hills, none higher than 500 +feet. Cultivation occurs especially at Lal-Ghurry Beg, a space of some +size, containing several villages, of the usual Khyberry form, namely, +surrounded by low, quadrangular walls, with a thin square tower and very +broadly projecting eaves. A short distance from its summit, just after +passing the villages, and before entering the ravine which leads us to +our present camp is a Khyberry tower, built on a fine Bactrian tope, +which is nearly half ruined; on the top of this a dome of good +proportions is built on a double-terraced foundation. + +This gives a rude idea of what the tope was originally, now half the dome +has fallen down. + +[A Khyberry tower: m426.jpg] + +The entrance to the ravine gradually becomes narrower, the bed is stony, +very winding, and narrow. Bold precipices of limestone cliffs ascend on +either side of Sir-i-Chushme; then a little below, very copious springs +issue from limestone. The temperature of the principal spring is 75 +degrees; it contains abundance of fish--a loach and cyprinoid. Passed +some ruined fortifications on the right, leading down to water, evidently +_kafir_ works; then we enter a narrow but short gorge, occupied by the +stream; a few more turns and you come on Ali-Musjid. No change occurs in +the vegetation, bare rocks at the summit of which the Bar. stood at +26.72. Andropogons and Artemisiae are the chief plants. + +In the gorge downwards, Acacia occurs in abundance, with Adhatoda, and +otherwise the shrubs of Lundyakhana occur in abundance, and Adiantum +about the spring. + +After passing the fort, the rocks open out into a ravine, with low +undulated hills on every side, covered with the usual vegetation; +Astragalus one species. + +At Lal-Ghurry Beg, one Khinjuck tree, Elaeagnus, occurred; and grass in +very small stacks, well pressed and covered with a thatch of bushes and a +layer of dirt. + +There is excellent fishing in the stream. Loaches, Perilamps, and +especially an Oreinus? swarming at Sir-i-Chushme, and taking worms very +greedily. + +No forests whatever visible in this direction; the arborescent vegetation +being confined to scattered and small trees. + +_5th_.--We halted near Jumrood, after a march of ten miles and one +furlong. This place is situated at the mouth of the pass, within sight +of the Seikh camp at Jumrood. Marched down to the ghat, which is +generally speaking narrow and very strong, opening out here and there, +into easier parts extending down the stream all the way; this stream +loses itself suddenly, but after a little distance it is replaced by +another from the right, where ravines enter: here the pass is well +adapted for pillage, elsewhere the sides are so steep, that robbers could +not dispose of their plunder. At the mouth, the pass opens out into a +good breadth, with an even, small, shingly bottom. At Kuddun the Seikh +troops were drawn up to compliment the C. in C., one regiment met us +shortly before to protect the baggage. Maize cultivated. At the mouth, +the Khyber is more difficult than any other pass, except the Bolan: +perhaps it is much narrower than that, except just above Sir-i-Bolan. + +No change in vegetation, one or two new plants occurred, viz. a Labiata, +and a treelet, foliis linearibus oppositis, Jasminacea aspectu, Baloot, +Vitex common, Salix, and shrubs as before, Veronica, etc. + +The Khyber mountains viewed from the mouth of the pass are brown, and +dotted with peculiar looking trees. + +_6th_.--Proceeded six and a half miles to near the ruins of an old tope; +first, down the nullah, then by the fort of Futtygurh, a Hindoostanee mud +fort with high parapets, two lines of works, and a _pucka_ citadel with +embrasures for guns on a commanding mound: thence we passed over a gentle +slope with a good many scattered _Bheirs_, _Kureels_, AErua, Mudar, etc. +to camp, where the ground is very rough and stony, abundant water +obtained from a cut with sheets of maize cultivation. Fossil shells, +Pterocles, found in arenaceous limestone (Durand). + +_7th_.--To Peshawur, eight and a half miles, over a sandy plain; road +bad, intersected with cuts and ravines; three canals had to be crossed by +small bridges which occasioned a good deal of delay to the camels. Passed +the Seikh lines, between the fort and north face of town, and encamped on +east face opposite the Governor's house: three gibbets were passed, with +twelve persons hanging from them, some of old date. + +In the evening we had a gay party at M. Avitabili's, who is a fine +looking man, with an intelligent Italian countenance. + +In a room gaudily decorated and painted, was the following very +appropriate motto-- + + Donec eris felix multos numerabis amicos. + Tempora si fuerunt nubila, solus eris. + +If this was true in Rome, and is true in Europe, to what extent does its +truth not reach in this country. In the evening we were entertained with +dancing and fireworks; excellent dinner and admirable bread. + +_14th_.--To-day the atmosphere is hazy, but the snowy range is not topped +with clouds. It is curious enough that the part which is most exposed to +our view, and which bears about north-east, is generally clouded +throughout the hotter parts of the day, while apparently equally high +peaks in other directions remain clear. + +It is curious that in Khorassan remarkably few climbing plants occur, and +of these, the chief form is Cuscuta. + +Botany here at this season is a non-entity, in the marsh close to the +fort, there occur some few plants, the chief European forms being +Veronica. Ranunculus sceleratus is now coming into flower, Typha +angustifolia abounds, with Arundo, also Sparganium, Sium, Butomus +trigonifolius common; otherwise Cyperaceae, _Epilobium out of_ +_season_! Ranunculus aquaticus is most abundant; two species of Chara, or +rather 1 Chara, and 1 Nitella, the last a beautiful species, Marsilea in +profusion, Azolla common, Lemna two or three species, one _new_, a +floating Marchantiacia, Nelumbium occurs, but only as a cultivated plant. + +Of two Boreal, or European forms found in sub-tropical countries, that +form is the most northern which flowers, etc. in the coldest season, +hence Veronica and Ranunculus are more northern than _Epilobium_ in this +particular district. The most elevational plant at Cabul is +Cardaminoidea, floribus luteis, this flowers at high altitudes in August +and September, and at Cabul shows no symptom of flowering even in +October; it is there a winter plant? The same is true of Hippuris, which +to flower at Cabul requires a greater degree of cold than is obtainable +during the summer months. + +What I have said of Epilobium above, is true of Typha and Arundo, both +now passed flowering, and both found in India, to a considerable extent. + +Royle's idea of the comparatively greater extent of distribution of water +plants is not I think correct, in the sense he seems to entertain it; to +be so, the species should be the same, which they are certainly not. It +is only with pre-eminently aquatic forms that the annual temperature can +be more equalised than obtains with strictly terrestrial plants. The +humidity which may appear connected with the rapid evaporation in these +countries, and which obtains? in the vicinity of all bodies of water, may +account for the appearance here of Arundo, etc. All genuine aquatic +types have leaves involute in vernation? + +The least valuable of all northern forms, are those associated with +cultivation, especially if they be annuals, because in the first place +they may be acclimated species, a circumstance of great importance; and +in the second, because if annual, they are confined to the cold season. +All such forms have probably migrated into these countries, they have +come from the westward: this shows us why at almost equal elevations they +are most common, the nearer we approach to the elevated regions towards +the west, because it is self-evident that the nearer we approach the +regions whence they have migrated, the more abundant and diversified will +the migrating plants be, only particular species having the power of +extending the range of migration. + +When all the Indian plants hitherto met with, have been tabulated; when +all their respective heights at which they have been found have been +determined; when their more strictly geographical sites have been fixed; +when we have some data as to the quantity of humidity pervading their +localities; then, and not till then, shall we be able to legislate for +the geography of Indian botany. + +The Botanist who travels without the means of determining these points, +destroys half the value of his collections. + +_December 16th_.--Yesterday was very raw and cloudy, to-day clear as +usual, towards 1 P.M. a strong north-east wind occurred for a short time +as usual, because once or twice before, it occurred after threatening +weather. + +_Rationale_.--It blows from the nearest snow to supply the rarefied air +in the valley heated by the sun, even now tolerably powerful; it blows +for some days so long as a vacuum is formed, and discontinues when clouds +again appear; hardly so, as it before only blew for three or four days, +although several more elapsed before clouds re-appeared: it may however +be dependent on each fresh fall of snow in the hills. + +_26th_.--Cloudy morning, forenoon fine, clear and calm. + +Mosses are the analogues of Zoophytes; these analogies are to be looked +for in the most striking and most constant parts of the organization of +the divisions of nature. + +Marchantiaceae are the representatives of radiate animals, another reason +why Jungermanniaceae are to be separated from them. + +Hence, Radiata, = Marchantiaceae. + " Zoophyta, = Musci. + +I am quite convinced that the true subordinate groups of Acotyledones are +far from being discovered. + +Are the sheaths found on certain radicles strictly confined to +monocotyledonous plants. There is this certain about them, that they +depend on the presence of vascular tissue, from which the radicles or the +divisions of each root originate: see young Hyacinth roots, grown in +water. + +Although the sheaths cannot exist without a positive cuticle, their +existence does not depend so much on its presence as on the direction of +the adhesive powers of its component parts: witness certain forms of +Marchantiaceae, and the vaginate forms, as Azolla, Lemna, etc. Also the +sheath may not have adhesive powers at its apex to prevent the escape of +the radical at that point: witness Hyacinth roots? We may imagine a case +in which the primary radicle may be without a sheath, while its divisions +shall have them, this depending on the want of adhesion of the cuticle +over the original one. + +The emerged and immersed leaves of plants are well worthy of examination, +since Microphytum proves that stomata do not depend on the presence of a +cuticle as Brongniart supposes: their presence is united with, or allied +to an amount of density in the cellular tissue, sufficient to prevent the +due aeration of the inner cellules, without direct communication with the +atmosphere. Vide Musci!! Hence the inner tubes of the leaves of the +generality of aquatic plants, (exception Eriocaulon fluitans.) + +What is the cause of the plurality of radicles in certain species of +Lemna, and their blank in others? It will be necessary on this point to +examine well the sheaths of Azolla, and to look at the Mergui +AEschynanthus. + +The formation of Affghanistan is very curious: it consists of a wide +extent of country, variously elevated steppes being separated by ridges +usually very accessible, generally isolated. The mountainous part varies +as to its formation, but there is no variety in the declivities and +acclivities forming the lower elevations, which are composed of +conglomerate; nor is there much in the usually narrow strip at the lowest +portion of each steppe or valley, which is very generally the only +cultivatable portion. + +In the Khyber ghat the ridges are either of limestone or slaty rocks, +between which conglomerate occurs of various thicknesses; this being +dependent on the angle of the mountains forming the sides of the ghat: it +is from this conglomerate in such places consisting usually of a loose +texture that the very excellent roads (for mountainous passes) are +naturally made by the draining streams, which are only periodical. The +conglomerate consists of water-worn stones of all sizes, even boulders +are not unfrequent, yet the wearing is such as occurs in courses now +filling the beds of torrents. The conglomerate increases in density and +adhesion towards Lalpoor, and in many places is exceedingly hard. + +Whatever the country may have been previously, one might explain its +present appearance by supposing it to have consisted of a tolerably level +extent of conglomerate, with here and there a strip of soil in the lowest +part of each portion, and that the elevation of the mountain ridges was +of subsequent occurrence: this would account for the formation of the +lower slopes, and the frequent isolation of small eminences of the same +character as the neighbouring mountains. It will account for the +appearance of the conglomerate in every ravine until the top of the +culminating point is reached. + +As the mountains were elevated, portions of conglomerate would be +detached, and these resting again on all suitable places, would account +for the existence of conglomerate on certain parts which are flatter than +usual. + +Whirlwinds are common about Cabul, commencing as soon as the sun has +attained a certain degree of power. + +In all cases they assume the shape of a cone, the point of which being a +tangent on the earth's surface: the cone varies in shape, is generally of +a good diameter, occasionally much pulled out, some being 2,300 feet in +height, the currents are most violent at the apex. + +They come and go in all directions, even after starting, not always +preserving the original direction. They are less common on days in which +winds prevail from any given direction, and vary much in intensity from a +mere breeze, lightly laden with dust and with no tortuosity, to a violent +cone of wind, capable of throwing down a _soldari_. + +Northerly winds are prevalent here from 1 or 2 P.M. until 8 or 9 P.M., +occasionally they only commence in the evening, when they are obviously +due to the rarefaction of the air of the valleys by the great heat of the +sun, amounting now to 100 degrees at 3 P.M., and the vacuum being +supplied by gusts from the high mountains to the north and north-east. + + + +CHAPTER XVIII. + + +_From Peshawur to Pushut_. + +_January 8th_.--At Ichardeh. Between Busoollah and Lalpoor are three +curious low ridges, none above sixty feet high, and all of small extent; +they are covered with fractured masses of rock of the same size as those +strewn so liberally about the shingly slopes; but they are much cleaner +or fresher looking, and appear to me less worn. Whence do they derive +their singular situation? They occur in such numbers, that one would at +first think they originated from a mass of ruins, but the ridges present +scarcely any surface for buildings to stand upon, certainly not to such +extent as would account for the abundance of these fragments. + +About Huzarnow and on both sides, low ridges of sand occur. In this sand +graves are usually dug, and in some places to an extent indicating +dreadful devastations from disease, each grave is headed by a stone, and +about every ramification of the irregular size of the burial ground, +there is a building of the usual mud structure, designed for a mosque, +but not domed as is customary in Mussulman cemeteries, but ornamented +with flagstaffs bearing white bits of cloth. These low sand ridges are +often very much undulated; they consist of a very fine powder, and at +Huzarnow are evidently of the same nature as the cultivated soil: they +are neither in attachment as it were to the neighbouring hills, nor +distinct from them, but always have some communication with the shingly +slopes, to which they are evidently inferior. + +So that the base of Khorassan may be taken to be the tillable portions, +over which occur, to a vast extent, the shingly very barren slopes, which +every section shows to be nothing but a mass of debris, resting on the +mountain rocks. + +_9th_.--Ali-Baghan. To this the road is good, along the right bank of +the river, wherever it does not wind along over the spurs forming a +considerable part of the march. To the first point where this occurs, it +extends over the same sort of plain as that about Ichardeh; keeping +rather close to the bank of the river, it is good, also through the +valley of Gundikuss, and from near the _Choky_, to Ali-Baghan. + +The first rocky ridge is about three-quarters of a mile in length, and is +not very difficult; at the end near Gundikuss, is a curious ruin built +into the stream, where the latter runs with violence on the rocky bank: +it consists of a broadish pathway, with a wall on the river side, breast +high; the masonry is good and solid, of the usual Bactrian materials, but +well cemented; it has mostly been ruined by the river, only one end being +perfect. Although the materials are _Bactrian_, the contour is +Mussulman, and I was told by some people that it was a Mussulman +erection: originally it perhaps extended all along this part, as slight +traces here and there are discernible; for what use the original +structure was intended I know not, as there are no remains visible of a +fort. + +The inlet of Gundikuss is well cultivated, the village itself a large +straggling one, built close under a ridge. + +From this to the _Choky_ the path is rocky, and in many places very bad, +consisting of a series of ascents and descents, and winding round spurs; +in the worst place, the path almost overhangs the river 200 feet above +its bed, and it is very hard and very rocky. The distance between ten or +eleven miles, the road is impracticable for guns, etc. nor could our +camels with loads well get over it. + +_10th_.--To Camp at the Bussout river, nothing remarkable occurred; +immense quantities of Serratuloides on the sandy raviny parts of the +road. Crossed the river on the usual _mussuck_ rafts, the animals forded +it, at the quiet head of a rapid, water breast deep: this river is +smaller than that from Kooner. + +_11th_.--To Bussout, five miles. A village passed about one and quarter +mile up Kooner ghat, here a mile broad. No change in the features of the +country, which throughout is well cultivated; here and there abundance of +sedges, in the low ground; plenty of watercuts, but none of any great +size: road worse at the entrance of the ghat rounding the east boundary, +but guns might avoid this ground by keeping towards centre of the ghat. + +12th.--To Sha-i-wa, distance 8 miles. The road after turning the angle +of Bussout ghat, passed entirely through cultivation, villages, trees and +inhabitants more numerous than in any other place, cuts numerous, but the +road altogether from this cause and the cultivated fields very bad. Rubus +found along cuts at Chunar-Bukkeen. _Toot_, _Phaenix_. Vines numerous, +of large size, running up mulberry trees; forests seen on Kooner +mountain? _Umlook_ and _Julghogal_, very common grain, very dear. The +women are generally clothed in dark blue _Noorgul_. The road now extends +up a gorge to our front, named Durrah. + +Gooraiek fort on the opposite side. + +_13th_.--Halted. River much clearer than that of Jallalabad; its bed +affords abundance of large grass. + +_14th_.--Rejoined camp, keeping on the north bank of river. The road +passed over tillable recesses among the hills forming the north boundary +of Kooner valley, and over the spurs dividing these, of which the first +is short but bad, the last is a mile long, road infamous, narrow, rocky, +and in some places overhanging the river. I was attacked about a mile +and a half from camp, my servant Abdool Boyak, the bravest and most +trustworthy Asiatic I ever saw, wounded, losing the two first fingers of +his right hand; this was opposite the old Fort, Noorgul, which is a +dilapidated _kafir_ ruin on a low island in the centre of the valley and +river, a strong position. {435} Other ruins occur on the road, one near +Sek-Syud, the spur being covered with its remains. + +After leaving Deh-Syud, the valley becomes contracted; the river +occupying almost all its level portion, being much spread out, and with +numerous grassy islands; the cultivation occurring in the recesses +between the banks of the rivers and the glacis slopes. + +_15th_.--To Kooner, the road passes to Noorgul, an old _kafir_ fort, done +up and occupied by Kooneriles, to its south-west, three-quarters of a +mile a hostile fort is situated. The ferry is about two miles from +Noorgul, and is with difficulty fordable: the streams, three in number, +the last almost brim full, and very rapid; thence to Kooner is over a +cultivated country. + +Noorgul is on a commanding position, the ground rising gradually on all +sides to it; the valley here is very narrow. Observed Cnicus, Fumaria, +Lotus, Anagallis caerulea, and Veronica agrestis, springing up: trees +continue the same to about Kooner: some fine plane trees observed. + +All the mountains are wooded at a certain height, and in greater +quantities, very different however from Himalayan forests, being dotted +in parts, rather than uniformly clothed with forest, Andropogon one of +the ordinary spring forms: the _churs_ or islands in the river are also +covered with Andropogoneous vegetation. + +_16th_.--To Pushut, or rather to within one mile of it, rain throughout +the day accompanied by an unpleasant wind down the valley. Road except +for the first mile, during which it passed through cultivation, +troublesome, otherwise with the exception of two ravines, at one of which +the horses were taken out of the guns, very good: valley narrow, say +three miles, the boundary ridges to the north presenting as it were, +truncate faces to the valley, all the mountains at certain heights are +well wooded. + +_17th_.--Rain continued since, almost without intermission, very dirty +weather, but no wind. + +Snow on the hills around, almost within 1,500 to 2,000 feet of this, the +mountains to the south are well wooded, the woods occurring here and +there in forests; snow is said to fall here occasionally. + +_18th_.--The attack took place this morning, and failed on account of the +weather, which was sufficient to damp any thing, and which prevented the +powder bags from exploding, as well as a second cask of cartridges. The +men were withdrawn about twelve, rain pouring down, ammunition of the +guns being expended, and that for musquetry quite useless; a few more +rounds would have demolished the entrance gateway and brought it down +bodily; loss severe, twenty five men killed, thirty-two wounded, several +dangerously. The fort was well defended, and evidently by a mere handful +of people. + +_19th_.--Last night the fort was evacuated as well as that on the +opposite side, and the Syud has made off into the hills. It cleared up +in the morning but is now as threatening as ever, the ditch of the fort +is twelve or fifteen feet deep, but like all Affghan ditches it is +narrow. The parapets were very slight, so that a more powerful battery +would have kept down their fire completely; no injury had occurred to the +inner gate except its being off one of its hinges, or rather out of one +of its sockets. The entrance _was thus round the gate_, not +through the gateway: it was protected by a thick screen of brushwood and +mud, all of the shots from the second position had lodged in the wall +close to the side of the gate; every thing was carried off, except a +little grain, and some gunpowder. + +_20th_.--Continued rain. + +_21st_.--Snow within 500 feet. + +_22nd_.--Moved camp. + +_23rd_.--Continued rain and sleet, almost passing into snow. + +[Section of Kooner valley: m436.jpg] + +_Desideratum_.--Required to ascertain positively whether the shingle and +boulders are in all cases not derived from the boundary mountains: that +they are not in many cases is clear, witness the declivities of slate +rocks, totally incapable of assuming the form of boulders. The +proportions of the cultivated to the uncultivatable land is previously +given rather in favour of the tillable portion, this is always a light, +almost impalpable powder, consistent when wetted: generally the soil owes +any fertile qualities it has here, to the presence of water; thus the +Dusht-i-Bedowlut produces nothing beyond its indigenous plants from +having no water. + +The transition from the extremely bare mountains of the Hindoo-koosh as +seen on the road to Bamean, to the well wooded ones of the Himalaya, +takes place at Jugdulluck, the hills, round which, produce plenty of +Baloot: in this direction, the forests become much thicker as we proceed +to the eastward. There is a mountain near Jallalabad, which at once +arrests the attention from its being wooded. Nothing like it occurring +between this and Cabul, on any part of the chain of mountains distinctly +referrable to the Himalayas. Wooded as this is, it is nothing to the +woods on the mountains about Pushut, the size of these has been well +demonstrated by the late snows: some bare places occur, which +appearances, Abdool says are from cultivation of Kohistanes. Baloot +abounds, Dodonea also is now coming into flower! a curious fact pointing +out its northern qualifications, although in form it is very like a +Mergui Dodonea. + +_24th_.--A clear day after a night of heavy rain, still no appearance of +settled weather; walked in the afternoon towards the Dhurrah at the south +side of the valley. The bouldery slope presented an abrupt bank of a +considerable angle, and its limits were most marked from that of the +tillable soil; as we approached the foot of the ghat, the fragments +became larger, they are angular, and have been little if at all worn; +thence I walked eastwards to a small isolated ridge of limestone, perhaps +a mile from the foot of the boundary chain, and returned to camp. In +this direction, which is that of the torrents, occasionally rushing out +of the Dhurrah, the transition between the mountain slope, and the +tillable soil, was gradual, the action of water carrying farther down +small fragments, and turning some of the fields into a sandy shingly +soil: the depth of the beds of these torrents here, is perhaps four feet, +the section being a mass of very unequal fragments. + +I am not certain whether these fragments are derived from the mountains +or not, they seem to be too varied, and too widely spread for that, +although the course of the occasional torrents must vary very much. + +Another puzzling thing is, that in the section afforded by the ditch of +the fort, and which is seventeen feet deep, the shingle underlies the +tillable soil. + +The vegetation of the slopes here partakes of the nature of the Khyber +pass, the prevailing feature consists in coarse tufts of Andropogonous +grasses, Lycioides occurs, also Periplocea, also Cryptandoid, Euonymus, +these are on the cliffy ridge of limestone alluded to, 2 sp. of +Astragalus, Solanum jacquini? Schaenanthus, Sedoides pictum very common, +a small fern, apparently a Cryptogramma, Grimonia, Tortula, a Bryum, +three or four lichens, one Marchantiacea found under boulders or in +crevices of rocks, one Salsola, Fagonia, Dianthoid, Statice common, +Onosma, Artemisia one or two, a large Cnicoid. + +The only new feature is a shrubby dwarf fragrant Composita, foliis albis +subobovatis, dentatis grossiusculi margine revolutis. + +_24th_.--A break after a very wet night, cloudy throughout the day. + +_25th_.--A fine day, particularly towards evening, beautifully clear. + +_26th_.--No rain, but very cloudy, cold north-east wind. + +_27th_.--Rain very threatening, a disgusting country in which it is +impossible to take exercise without a strong guard: no means of access to +the beautiful forests visible in several directions, and the natives are +so intractable that it is impossible to induce them to bring in specimens +of their various trees, the only things about which I am anxious. + +In the meantime I have begun to use the theodolite, and getting +approximations to the height of those peaks remarkable for their features +of vegetation. + +It is curious that no pines are visible on any range south of the Kooner +river, until we reach those heights on the opposite side of a very +conspicuous ravine, up which the Bajore road runs. To the north, on all +the ranges of sufficient height, fine forests are visible, especially of +firs, other large-crowned trees exist, forming the bulk of the forests, +below the limit of the pines, but never grouped as those are, but +occurring isolatedly, these I call generally, _Baloot_ woods, i.e. +Quercus _Baloot_. + +The only means I have of gaining any idea of the composition of these +forests, are derived from the twigs and branches, which are used by the +natives as pads for the loads of _wood_ which they bring into for sale, +and which almost consequently are from the lowermost limits of woody +vegetation. To go among the woods unguarded, is impossible, and +secondly, the weather is very bad. + +_Memoranda_.--That it cannot always be deficiency of soil which causes +the extreme barrenness of the usual Khorassan mountains, because on the +Kalo Pass to Bamean, nearly 13,000 feet high, the soil is abundant; but +in this case, height may interfere. + +It is obvious between Kooner and Cabul, that the transition from +absolutely treeless mountains to well-wooded ones occurs nearer to Kooner +than Cabul, because the Hindoo-koosh about Cabul, and to the eastward, is +said to be treeless. + +How interesting will the examination of these woods be, how different +will be their flora from that of Khorassan proper! + +To define the Khorassan Province also, by its being destitute of wood or +trees. Note its passing off from this character between Ghuzni and +Quettah, see Marryott's letter about Kooner, compare with _Mazenderam_ +_forests_. Fine plane trees occur here, all the vines are trained on +mulberries. What is Burnes' holly oak, or lily oak? + +Rubus occurs, Ranunculus stolonifolia, a cold season plant, Euphorbia +ditto, and the usual Peshawur forms. + +_28th_.--Fine weather; clouds however, still flying about. + +_29th_.--A fine morning; in the afternoon threatening, night cloudy, all +the clouds come down the ravine! except when the wind occasionally shifts +to west. + +_30th_.--Fine weather, although still unsettled. I procured the other +day a few specimens of trees from the hills to the south of this, among +these which amount only to a few, are one Myrtus, an Olenia, both of +which bear me out in assuming that the woody vegetations of these hills +will present a curious transition between the genuine Australio-European +and the Himalayan forms. + +_31st_.--Almost every isolated rock in this country is covered with ruins +which vary much in extent, and are often barely perceptible, but careful +looking will detect them in all situations about gorges, and such places. +From the rivers running under rocks, the paths which must be resorted to, +at least at this season, are very difficult. It would be curious to +speculate on the different state of preservation of these ruins, and the +singular people to whom they are due. + +The soil of this valley is very deep in places: in one place on the +opposite side of the river, it is twenty-five feet at least, the depth +obviously diminishing towards the bed of the river, or the lowest part of +the valley. + +[Section through river valley: m440.jpg] + +In this valley, at least about here, curious round thatched huts are +visible about villages, intended for religious females, they are closed +except at a small door. + +Cotton much cultivated. + +The _Jala_, or float skins used for crossing rivers, are inflated by +_bellows_ of the usual description, this causes delay as some require to +be inflated very often owing to the eagerness of those who want to be +ferried over, and who rush indiscriminately on the _Jala_ which, from the +rafts being few and far apart, occasion delay; such ferries were not +intended for impatient travellers; nothing can show the want of +intelligence of the people more than this abominably slow method of +crossing rivers; here, there is little excuse for it, as wood is +abundant. + +The Culminating peak to the west of the north Dhurrah, shows that here, +as elsewhere, snow lies longer on the north than south sides: it also +affords a curious instance of the various disposition of snow: those +angles of its faces presented to the south having none, or little snow; +or does this depend upon the faces having different declivities? + +_February 1st_.--First part of last night clear; but the wind shifting +from west to north-east, has again thoroughly clouded the sky, night +beautifully clear, no rain, and no wind during the day. + +_2nd_.--A windy but clear night, succeeded by a beautiful morning, wind +as usual, north-east or thereabouts, i.e. down the river. + +I have seen it mentioned somewhere, that in arid climates the only +support of vegetable life exists in the dews, which are hence, at least +in the cases alluded to, supposed to be providential adaptations to +supply certain deficiencies. But considering that dews consist of +nothing but a deposition of moisture: it follows that in very arid +climates, as there is no moisture, so there can be no dews. For the +deposition of a dew, the fist essential thing, is moisture, either in the +ground or in the air, this last may have been derived from the ground. If +neither the ground nor the air contain moisture, no dews can exist, this +is the case in Khorassan. + +Throughout the whole campaign no dews were noticed, although the nights +were almost uniformly serene and calm, and the time chosen for marching, +would have certainly brought us in contact with them had they been +deposited. Dews therefore do not form in Khorassan, _with these_ +_exceptions_, that wherever from the nature, and the level of the soil, +water was found very near the surface, dews were deposited; as on the +_Chummums_ or low marshy pasturages at Candahar, Cabul, etc. + +But even these were trifling, the aridity of the air being too great as +compared with the small extent of Chummums, to allow the deposit of any +considerable portion of the moisture it had derived from the ground. + +So that aridity, instead of being adapted to dews, is a serious obstacle +to their ever appearing. With the rarity of dew, that of hoarfrost which +is nothing but frozen dew, may be associated; nor does hoarfrost often +occur, because in Khorassan it rains in the winter too freely, +particularly in all such places whose elevation is not sufficient to +cause the formation of snow, and hence where other circumstances are +favourable for hoarfrosts, _they are too much watered_ as it +were, and seldom occur. With extreme aridity, Khorassan unites extreme +electricity, the casual friction of woollen cloths, especially those of +camels' hair being accompanied by discharges sufficiently startling. The +same thing happens when caressing dogs or horses. I could never fill the +barometer without experiencing a shock as the mercury approached the +_bottom end_ of the tube, which (when nervous) used to endanger it. + +It is this extreme aridity that gives Khorassan so rich a spring flora, +this season being that of rain, of melting of snow, and the ground being +well moistened. + +It is this extreme aridity that necessitates the abundance of bulbous +plants in Khorassan, these deposits of nutrition existing even in several +of its Compositae. + +Query--Why are Carduaceae, (Artemisia) so adapted to aridity? + +The region of Carduaceae, commences about Ghuzni, and extends to _Maidan_ +or Cabul, it is at its maximum about Shaikabad and Huftasya. The +abundance of Carduaceae on the higher grounds, as for instance towards +Bamean, belong rather to a vernal flora. + +I hope to be particular in hereafter comparing the floras of all the +deserts? and to notice the absurd remarks of some travellers in +Khoristhan, on the domesticated parasitic nature of the watermelon plant, +on the Hedysarum Alhagi, _Shooturkari_. + +_3rd_.--Fine moderate north-east wind, very clear. + +_4th_.--Over-clouded. + +_5th_.--Rain. + +_6th_.--Unsettled. + +_7th_.--Rain, thunder, distant lightning occasionally last night. + +_8th_.--Fine: ice in the morning, thermometer five feet from the ground +35 degrees at 7 A.M. + +_9th_.--Fine diffused clouds last night, succeeded by a strong northeast +wind. + +_10th_.--Fine. + +_11th_.--Fine in the morning, then threatening. + +_12th_.--Quite over-clouded, north-east wind. The inferior level of snow +is now several hundred feet above that which it was at first. + +Oxalis corniculata in abundance, what an universal plant this is. + +All the natives of these parts wear sandals, those about the Khyber being +made of the leaves of a small Chamaerops, which is common on the rocks of +those mountains. + +A proof of the extreme want of useful plants is seen in the fact, that +baskets are scarcely ever seen, all the loads of flour, etc. being +invariably carried in skins. + +Leopards' skins for the purpose are obtained from Chugur Serai, Pullung +and also Sofaid-Koh. + +_16th_.--The troops marched on their return. A lark very much like the +English species occurs in flocks; it is a stupid bird, although obviously +aware of its resemblance to clods of earth, which it makes use of on +every occasion when a little frightened. The Gypaetos is also found +here; it feeds principally on carrion. I observed Trichrodroma for the +first time here to-day, this bird is by no means a powerful climber; +indeed the individual seen to-day could only cling, he was employed about +sand banks of the irrigating canals, etc. hopping from one likely spot to +another, clinging here and there momentarily, and always aiding himself +in his inclined position by a flutter of his wings; holes seemed always +to attract him. It is by no means a shy bird. I should observe however +that I have seen this species running up and down cliffs, so that perhaps +the rather loose sand would not give firm hold to his claws. + +As I mentioned elsewhere, this bird is allied, at least in analogy to +Upupa, it has its precise habit of flight and a good deal of its habits +in looking for food, although the Hoopoe pokes about in the ground, or +rather hammers the ground alone. It is however fond of building in holes +of walls, it breeds at Punukka, in April. + +I observed, and shot a weasel, or a _mungoose_ to-day, whilst it was +employed feeding on the cast away skin of a goat or sheep, so that some +of these creatures evidently feed occasionally on carrion, although they +are said to live upon live prey. + + + +CHAPTER XIX. + + +_On the Reproductive Organs of Acotyledonous plants_. + +_17th_.--Fine weather, the sun daily increasing in power, is having a +remarkable effect on the peculiar spring vegetation, but this is not +sufficiently developed to bring in the corresponding birds and insects. +Gypaetos is common now about the dead camels. + +On the low east ridge, along the path that leads over the river, ruins of +ancient times are discernible, this only adds another to the many proofs +of similarly situated ruins, that the people who built them have been +located about Cabul, Jallalabad, and Peshawur, certainly not about +Candahar. + +In the soil between the rocks, and in their crevices saturated with +moisture, most of the plants are just sprouting. Trichonema, Crocus, and +one or two other monocotyledons, Labiatae? Sedum three or four species, +exclusive of Sedoides foliis deltoides sphathulatis, and a Stapelioid +Asclepias, are to be found. I also got a new fern, the fourth species +out of 1,300 sp. it is a Ceterach or Grammitis, a curious stalked snuff- +ball, and one or two other Fungi, with an inverted cap, were met with. + +In the fields a young Ranunculus in profusion, Veronica agrestis, +Euphorbia, Festuca annua? + +Kochia spinosa, and a curious Mathioloid are among the few wild plants to +be found about Pushut. + +It would be a curious circumstance if all indusiate ferns were to be +found reducible to a _marginal production_ of the reproductive +apparatus. I will bear this in mind, as certain forms of Pteris or its +affinities lead me to suspect that in these tribes the indusium may be a +long way from the margin, and yet be, quoad origin, marginal; this +section illustrates my meaning. + +[Fern sections: m444.jpg] + +The transition to this might reasonably be suspected. The philosophy of +ferns is most ill understood, the higher points connected with them have +been quite neglected, and botanists in this as in other departments of +the science have been contented to confer names on certain external +forms, without sufficient regard to structure. + +To-day I commenced examining Adiantum, with the view of determining if +possible the nature of its reproductive organs, and the mode in which +they are impregnated, if they are impregnated at all. + +As I had long been aware that the fructification of each frond is a thing +to be determined at a very early period, and that if not determined then, +it is never likely to be determined afterwards, my attention was directed +more strongly, if possible, than it would have been otherwise, to +examining the subject at the earliest possible stage of its development. + +The first piece examined gave me the idea that I had trouve le noeud de +l'affaire; the second made me doubt this; the subsequent ones went far to +disprove it. + +I was immediately struck with the resemblance of those organs, called +ramenta, to what are fairly assumed to be the male bodies, in certain +other families of the same grand division; and I at once came to the +conclusion, that the barren fronds, were barren, because almost destitute +of these ramenta; and that as these ramenta were confined to the base of +the stalk, that is, to the part below its first ramification, an obvious +necessity existed for the peculiar nature of the vernation. + +Further examination of the thing, especially of the base of the stipes +and the adjoining part of the rhizoma, threw me back almost into my +original difficulties. I find that the rhizoma is entirely covered with +ramenta, which are brown, much detached at the base, and obviously +represent a low form of leaf, i.e. in appearance, perhaps partly in +function, but not in structure. Among these, mature ramenta at the +punctas of prolongation, which appear to be very irregular, are +concealed, others much smaller, and much narrower, (which bear as obvious +a resemblance, or even more so to the male organs of certain other +orders,) than the ramenta on the stipes. These are never entirely brown, +the end cell alone is coloured, but though occasionally tinged with +brown, they are filled with some fluid (even this is not so at first,) +but do not appear to open. I believe that subsequently all become highly +tinged with brown, but what increase of growth they subsequently undergo, +I know not. The terminal cell is always solitary, very often attached to +the one next it, which is generally single, obliquely placed, +occasionally looking like the dimidiate calyptra capping a young seta. +The number of cells forming the base, or dilated part varies, but is +always small in proportion to the larger ramenta, or protecting scales: +these last have a single terminal cell, which in fact must be the same in +every really cellular growth _sooner or later_, the last degree of +formative power being the production of a single cell. + +At a subsequent period, still an early one, the terminal cell is fuscous- +brown, and this colour then extends to the next in various degrees, but +if it reaches the basilar ones at all, it does so at late periods. The +base of the terminal cell, and parts of the parietes of the next and +next, present a coagulated appearance, precisely as in certain mosses. + +No such thing as a petiolate leaf occurs in acrogens, all are attached by +a broad base? Of acrogenous leaves, those only are leaves whose +attachment is at right angles with the stem; the rest are divisions of a +frond. Thus far with the ramenta. The divisions of the frond, are, I +find, not gyrate, but rather cochleariform involate. The future +reproductiveness is settled at a very early period, and is +distinguishable under the microscope by a sort of _margination_ of the +frondlets. In the earliest stage I have looked at, the margin is +greenish, striated by narrow cells, and passes into the body of the leaf +gradually; the greater development is perhaps central; even now the bulk +of the cells of the leaflet have green granules, and are opaque from air. +The vessels are marked out, or at least their future course, and along +them the opacity from air does not exist, so that the veins appear +depressed. + +The next stage presented a greater development of an isolation of the +margin, but no other change. The next presented an isolation of the +margin, which remains almost white, the other part being green, but more +so because of a thickening as it were along the base of the marginal +part, and an evident deposit of grumous matter, from which, under every +circumstance new tissue seems always to be developed. Pressure causes +its discharge, its contents were unappreciated by my poor instruments; +after this the leaflets revert to the appearance of the second stage. +Here I ceased for the day, having I think ascertained that ferns are +endorhizal, and that the primary divisions of the roots hence have +sheaths, which adhere to the apex of the root itself.--What a strange +union of roots, that of monocotyledons in the main divisions, and of pure +acrogens in the minor!! + +I cannot help thinking that the secret is hidden in these ramenta, which, +as is known, are so universal as obviously to have higher functions than +those of mere covering scales. The appearance of those I have described +as existing about the points of growth, are exactly the same as the +processes mixed with the anthers of mosses, and of which the anthers are +nothing but more developed growths; this would point out, as indeed +appears to me otherwise evident, (especially from consideration of the +theca, and its want of style,) that ferns are lower organised as sexual +beings than mosses and Hepaticae. I know nothing of Lycopodineae, more +than they are the highest of all acrogens; and are not to be included in +the same category with ferns. + +The objection to the ramenta being anthers, will be the closed nature +(_apparently_) of the terminal cell, and although the anthers of mosses +do burst, and most especially those of Hepaticae, yet the argument is not +conclusive--inasmuch as _boyaux_, to which they are analogous _do not_ +_open_? + +These ramenta explain fully the nature of those confervoid organs found +in some Neckerae, and perhaps in other mosses, and it becomes paramount +to prove whether these Neckerae have also the usual anthers, or if they +are confined to these, in which case a presumptive proof will thus be +afforded of their functions: if they have both forms, they will +nevertheless constitute an analogous passage between the two orders: if +they have only _these_, such Neckerae will form, as indeed they do, a +very distinct genus. + +The nature of the barren fronds requires distinct analysis. Are they +barren from mere deficiency in supplies, such as may result from many +circumstances; or are the antheriform ramenta deficient? They are barren +from defective growth. I am aware how readily objection may be taken to +these views, some will say these young ramenta are nothing but young +scales as the older ones evidently are scales; but this amounts to +nothing, because we may expect simplicity in the sexual organs of this +division, and it will be only a proof of the uniformity of nature in +making so great a difference in a function depend on, or be associated +with so small a one in form. My view I think explains their uniformly +brown colour--analogous to Brown's sphacelation in mutatis mutandis. + +Others will say how absurd the idea is, when you cannot show the place to +which the impregnating influence is to be applied. But the consideration +of mosses does away with this objection partly, and that of Anthoceros, +entirely; because in mosses, the _ovule_, or pre-existing cell, ready to +receive the male influence becomes an empty cell, terminating the seta; +and the sporula become developed at its opposite end, the first growth +appearing to be quite unconnected with that of the future reproductive +organs: and in Anthoceros there is no fixed punctum ready for the +application of the male organs, but these have to form a communication +with the lower, or inferior cellular tissue of the frond, before even the +growth of seta can commence. + +Besides a case in point exists in Viscum, or Loranthus, in which no point +is ready prepared for the reception of the male influence; showing how +universal the law is, that in no one point or place is there an absolute +want of gradation. + +As in mosses the influence of the male _disregarding the ovule_, is +thrown into the development of the seta, and then of the theca at the +apex of this; there can be no conclusive reason why in ferns the same +influence should be thrown into the development of the frond, and then +into that of the theca. + +While Anthoceros proves that in these orders the male influence may exert +its effects upon any point. + +As there is no styliform production in Anthoceros, so there is none in +ferns. If the ramenta be anthers, they will not be dubious ones, because +as they remain fixed, people cannot say, that possibly they are also +reproductive bodies, which by the bye is no objection at all, after +instances of anthers bearing _ovules_ instead of pollen! + +Why the peculiar distribution of the male influence (on which we +determine our genera,) takes place, is another question, and one that +cannot be fairly asked? + +Why it is confined to the under surface perhaps can, it being a law that +in all cases it is the under surface of the leaf, or its modification, +from which new growths originate, and as nature has closed indusia, how +could the under surface be interior if this rule were not regularly +adhered to? + +That the indusium is a _special_ organ, i.e. not an eruption of the +cuticle, I am sure; hence it is essential to examine extensively both +indusiate and other forms, the precise extension of their veins, etc. at +an early period to ascertain if their most diversified situations cannot +be reduced to some one type. + +_Query_. Is the gyrate vernation of any ferns comparable to the form of +certain shells, to which (at least Mollusca) ferns are supposed to be +analogous. + +_Memo_. To ascertain the most peculiar, and most universal points of +Mollusca and Pseudo cotyledonea, it is in this way that we may hope to +extend our views. Some there are indeed who, while the whole course of +their studies has been to neglect structure, deny the applicability of +presumptive evidence in favour of doctrines, the subjects of which are +barely susceptible of direct proof. Thus Greville and Arnott, angrily +ask, what do persons mean by saying that mosses have pistilla, etc.? they +protest against such community of application in the use of terms. Many +more deny sexuality because it has not been proved. Considering the +invisible nature of the fluid of the anthers of mosses, etc. how do they +expect that we are to demonstrate its application to the pistil, and the +subsequent steps? As well might they doubt the necessity of the +application of the boyau to an ovule, (or the existence of the boyau +itself,) because the derivation of the embryo cannot be proved. + +One word more; in all cases the appearance of the reproductive body after +impregnation, is of late date; that date becomes later as we descend the +scale. The embryonary sac of Phaenogams does not always exist at the +time of application of the boyau, and the appearance of the embryo is +always posterior to this. + +Again, ferns are superior to mosses in this, that in many cases the male +influence is exerted directly on the parts that become the thecae, which +is not the case in mosses. + +_18th_.--Continued examining ferns, and to-day completes my knowledge of +the ramenta of three different genera. + +In the first which is Cryptogamma, the resemblance of the young ramenta +to the anthers of Jungermannia is evident enough, they are capital, and +the head is at one period filled with granular matter: so are the cells +throughout, to a greater or less extent. They are to be seen in all +stages of development on the pinnae of a very young frond, those near its +base having perhaps effected their purpose, while those at the apex of +the pinna, or the prolonging part of pinnula, may be formed of only one +cell. It is curious that the terminal cell does not become spherical for +some time: in its earlier stages it is cylindrical like the rest. + +The appearances of the old ones are, if possible, more markedly in favour +of my hypothesis; there is the same aggregation of grumous _congealed_ +matter about the ends of each cell, the same curious communication +between these masses which hide the septa from view, evincing a greater +or less tendency to assume the peculiar fuscesent or fusco-brown +appearance. I observed in two instances what appeared to me decided +irregular openings in the terminal cell, from one of which grumous +filaments projected; these appeared to communicate with the mass in the +terminal cell, which like that in all the others, is congealed; but it +assumes a different and very undefined form. + +People may object and say, why were not more met with _opened_? This is +no objection, because it is obvious that a spherical body may be opened +in part of its surface, and yet unless this portion happens to be on the +_edge_ as it were of the sphere, it may escape detection with a +microscope of poor penetration. + +In this the ramenta are confined, or nearly so, to the under surface of +the fronds. Most occupy that which is called the costa. In this the +first change as in Adiantum is in the definition of the margin. But this +point I have not paid much attention to, as with my present means here, +it would be absurd to attempt _proving_ how the fecundation takes place; +all that I can attempt is, to ascertain from structure and analogy, the +male nature of these curious bodies. + +_See_ Plate _B_ for the various sketches. {450} + +The next genus examined, is perhaps the instance in which these ramenta +have the strongest resemblance to ordinary simple hairs, both in their +young, when they represent succulent, tinged, grumous +molecular-containing hairs, and in the old, when they represent long, +flattened, coriaceous hairs, still there is abundant evidence to prove +that, however different these bodies are in appearance from those of +Cryptogamma, that they undergo the same changes, excepting perhaps as to +dehiscence. We have a tendency to fuscous colouring, a tendency to the +aggregation of congealed matter about the septae, precisely the places +where it is to be expected. The same appearance of a canal of +communication, the same irregular _constriction_ of certain cells; in +this too the first change in the pinnae, or its component lobes, is the +definition of the margin. In this genus the under surface of the frond +is covered with these _hairy-form_ bodies (which have been figured over +and over again in Hooker and Greville's ferns): on the upper face, a few +exist, but incomparably less developed. + +From the examination of this genus alone, I do not think the idea I have +been so diffuse upon, would have struck me. + +To-morrow I examine Ceterach, assured that the scales of its under face +are reducible to the same type. In a matter of such interest and +importance as this, many will, and with reason, dislike so important an +assumption on such inconclusive evidence. But with our present means, it +appears to me probable that no evidence to demonstration can be looked +for, and for this reason, that the contents of these peculiar cells are +so subtile as to escape definition even while in their cells, (or under +the most favourable circumstance for a concentration of attention.) How +much more so will this be the case, when we attempt to examine the steps +of the application of the fecundatory matter, applied over a surface +without any prominent points, and probably opaque. + +When direct evidence is not to be had, we are justified in using +presumptive evidence. As in human law, so in the laws of nature, +presumptive evidence to a practised eye carries with it conviction. We +have no direct evidence how the embryo is formed, yet no one doubts but +that it is brought about by the agency of the boyau, which is a cell +containing grumous molecular matter. However different a boyau may seem +to many, yet when viewed in conjunction with Cycadeae, the graduation to +the present case becomes natural, and even the resemblance may be +perfect, because in Cycas the grains of pollen get into the nucleus +bodily, although they would still seem to throw out short tails. + +Wonderful is the simplicity of nature! The male organ in its essence, +consists of a single cell containing molecular matter. + +The female in its essence consists of a single cell, likewise containing +similar matter. The influence of the male is exerted, and so another +cell is formed in the female cell, and this either becomes the embryo, or +gives origin to another cell, and so on, until the terminal one becomes +the embryo. + +I believe from examination of the most developed scaly ramenta, that +these have at an earlier period been fecundating organs, the same +peculiarities are to be detected towards their ends, where in fact they +retain their original structure, the dilated base being a subsequent +development. + +In reference to this, the examination of young ferns on their arrival at +the age of puberty is indispensable. A curious question arises, what is +the frond of a fern? Is it a mass of foliaceous growth containing +certain lines of reproductive matter, or is it a distinct development +from the axis, in which the reproductive organs are situated? Is it, or +is it not, subservient to reproduction? Here again extensive examination +is necessary. + +If it is altogether subordinate to reproduction, we may expect the +occurrence of far more simply constituted ferns than we are yet +acquainted with. In fact we may expect a form reduced to an axis, a few +ramenta, a frondose dilatation, and one punctum of reproductive organs. + +With respect to duration, each frond is analogous to a single seta of a +moss, it has definite limits, and is unlike the fronds of certain +Hepaticae, which are capable of compound growth; or if this is the case +in ferns, as it is in viviparous ferns, the new formation becomes +separated from the frond, as a Phaenogamous gemma does. This is a +question of importance, as perhaps it may prove that all the foliaceous +forms, except Lycopodium, Equisetum, and Chara, are frondose; the dorsal +situation is in favour of this assumption, since in all the genuine +frondose forms, the reproductive organs of both kinds originate +immediately from the under surface, although they may protrude through +the upper. + +I here ask, is there not _prima facie_ evidence that these organs have +peculiar functions; a peculiar form, attended with peculiar changes, must +have peculiar functions; and will any one show me in any single instance, +like circumstances to the like extent, in any of those organs called +hairs? By the bye, ferns themselves may prove that however like these +are to certain forms of hair, yet that their functions are different, +because the glandular hairs of ferns do not undergo the same alterations, +and are evidently nothing but hairs, probably secretory. + +_19th_.--In Ceterach the same thing occurs precisely, with this +difference, that the _capita_ of the ramenta are highly developed; and +still more, that the terminations of each pinnula of the young frond, are +mere scales without a terminal _head_. + +So that almost all the scales of the under surface of the lobes of the +mature frond, are mere scales. The peculiar ramenta are to be looked for +along the insertion of each pinna, and along the rachis, in which all +have the peculiar structure. + +At the time that these scales are commencing their development, the +peculiar ones are at the age of mature perfection, so far as function +goes. No one can look at a young pinnula at this epoch and observe the +evident capitation of each ramentum, the inflexion of its apex, so that +the head is brought into contact with the frond, without suspecting that +they have the same relation of _cause_ to the appearance subsequently of +the thecae or capsules. It is curious that the colour of the scales is +the same as that of the ramenta, in which the colour is developed from +above _downwards_, a peculiarity as it appears to me. + +The frond of Ceterach is very frondose-looking, it has stomata on its +under surface, and the cells of the cuticle very sinuate. There can be +no doubt of the propriety of including the nature of these ramenta and +scales in its generic character. + +I can see nothing peculiar in the situation of the scales or ramenta to +suggest the reason of the situation of the capsules. + +In several cases, each pinna appears to have scales only which become +barren lobes? the scales and ramenta have the same imbricate situation. +In this country it will be useless to expect more proofs. But the four +genera alluded to afford evidence enough, and sufficient to show that +these ramenta are formed with reference to some important function, that +their universality is incompatible with any functions of such minor +degree as are attributed to them by those who represent them to be scales +or hairs. + +To those who require proof of the existence of the complex male organ of +Phaenogams, or of a male of that form with which only they are familiar, +I do not address myself; but to the philosophic botanist, who expects to +meet with in the lower orders of plants, a lower organization, one with a +tendency of reduction to the essential elements, and who bears in mind +the comparative anatomy and structure of similar bodies in adjoining, or +not very distant groups, I beg leave to suggest the intimate study of the +ramenta of Ferns. + +Various as the situation of the fructification is, in three out of the +above four genera, yet the initial arrangements are precisely the same. +The various forms therefore may not depend proximately on fructification +itself, but on the peculiar growth given to the species, in the same way +in fact as we have the numerous modifications of the theca in mosses, +etc. and the infinite modifications of the carpels in Phaenogams. + +(Attention is particularly pointed to those ferns which have general +capsules or involucres. + +Above all to the Cyatheoid forms. + +To Ophioglossum. + +To naked Thecae. + +To indusiate as Asplenia, etc.) + +But however erroneous these views may be, they will still have been of +service if general attention is directed by them to plants, in +consequence of the suggestions they make. The time now thrown away on +isolated species, the station of which, still does not become fixed, when +devoted to the philosophical examination of ferns, will rescue botany +from one of its numerous reproaches. It is strange that such should +exist to the greatest degree in all those families stamped by nature as +most distinct. Those chaoses Polypodium, Aspidium, Davallia, would then +undergo distinct creation, and the primary divisions of the family would +become fixed; and we should then be spared the reproach of drawing +characters from organs, of the nature and functions of which we are quite +ignorant of, and of the importance of which in a science of demonstration +like that of botany, it is impossible to judge, without a true knowledge +of structure. + +Vide Lindley's Introd. ed. 2, 407, for the protest of Greville and +Arnott. + +What is the most comprehensive definition of a pistil. A case in which +the future organs of reproduction are developed; and here is a most +curious circumstance, namely, that though the calyptra, which is a +genuine pistillum containing an _ovulum_, becomes torn up from its base, +yet it remains in contact with that part of the seta in which the +sporules are developed until these make their appearance, or even later!! +so that one might as well deny a pistillum to a Reseda, or Leontice, as +deny it to these plants on the strength of its being torn from its +attachments. Sprengel's objections are worthy only of being noticed from +their having been quoted by Lindley. The vagueness of his statement +destroys all weight. + +His objections in all cases amount to the fact, that the _stellulae_ or +_buds_ containing the anthers are capable of growth. So is the +prolongation of an axis of Ananassa. + +A Gemma has a general character in its formation as well as an anther, or +as pollen; one is a congeries of cellular tissue, with or without +vessels, the other a sac consisting of a single cell containing active +molecular matter. As an anther producing a single grain of pollen is not +inconsistent with our notions of structure, so neither is an anther +consisting of a single grain of pollen. + +Will any one show me an instance of a proved gemma taking upon itself the +form of one of these anthers? Will any show an instance of a sac +containing fluid matter capable of growth _after dehiscence_. The real +gemmae of the Hepaticae puts the question of gemmae out of doubt. Is +there any plant existing with two sorts of gemmae, so differently +constituted? Many phaenogams have gemma in addition to sexes, so have +Hepaticae. Which is the most probable? That they should have no sexes, +reproductive organs, and two sorts of gemmae, or sexes, reproductive +organs, or gemmae of one evident kind? + +I cannot adopt the belief of any one having seen the germination of the +powder in the axillary bodies, that is, if applicable to the organs I +take for anthers. + +(_Memorandum_.--To draw up a parallel between the two sets of organs, and +the steps followed in the development of each.) + + + +CHAPTER XX. + + +_From Pushut to Kettore and Barowl in Kaffiristan_, _and_ +_return to Pushut and Cabul_. + +_February 20th_.--Fumaria found. + +_23rd_.--Cloudy, threatening rain. Swallows coming in, also +Fringillaria, with blackish cheek-streaks, also Pyrgita alia, starlings +uncommon up to this day about the site of the camp, where there is much +straw, and camels are lying. Flocks of _rooks_, genuine rooks, flocks of +daws, _minas_, pigeons, and many carrion crows have been daily resorting +to camp, all very wild from being constantly fired at, as in this country +every man almost has a matchlock. No Gypaetos seen for several days. + +_26th_.--Fine weather after two days uncertain, in which the large-headed +lark has just come in abundance, this and the _English_ one frequent +fields; the crystal one is found almost exclusively on certain stony +cultivated places: swallows have likewise arrived with many wild fowl. +Four raptorial birds are now seen about this, or rather three, for +Gypaetos has gone, viz. the common kite, or one which looks much like it, +a beautiful white slaty-blue and black _harrier_, at least it comes about +constantly, and looks much like an Indian species, and much like one I +shot high up in Bootan, together with a large blackish and white one, +with a _distinct collar_. The fishing hawk, I saw it yesterday catch a +large fish, making a strong rapid plunge boldly into the water, and +emerging again from it without much difficulty; its habits except while +fishing, are very sedentary, and it seems to prefer _one spot_, viz. +the top of some particular tree, near perhaps its favourite feeding +place. + +_27th_.--Another new bird has come in. A _Fringillina_, with curious +Flycatcher habits, I have only seen two individuals, they perch towards +the top of trees, and thence sally out after winged insects. I examined +the contents of its stomach, and found only seeds, gravel, and soft +insects. + +The sun is increasing wonderfully in power, but the trees are not as yet +budded. Shrubby Polygoneae, with flagellate branches and leaves, in +which the petiole is as much developed as the lamina, form a curious +feature of Affghan Flora; Euphorbia linifolia common, the herbaceous one +in profusion. + +_28th_.--Spring coming on rapidly, snow not within 2,000 feet of where it +was twenty days back, and the sun oppressively hot; winged ants in +abundance: whenever this happens it proves the perfection of the crows, +which are on all such occasions to be seen acting the part of flycatchers +in addition to their various other callings, soaring and sweeping round +after these insects, but not returning as Merops or real flycatchers to a +fixed station. I have hitherto seen only the jackdaws at this spot in +Calcutta, but here the real crow mingles in it. + +In Calcutta, the common kite often acts a similar part, but catches only +_with its feet_. + +A small kingfisher is to be found here _rarely_, it is much like the +Indian blue and reddish one, the white and black kingfisher is not seen +here, although found at Jallalabad. + +The species of _sub_-wader, with a stout upturned beak, is a true +Grallator, yet is not always about water, but often in the driest places; +the genus has a flight strongly resembling that of certain Anatidae. + +A _Monaul_ pheasant, or some similar splendid bird is found in the snows +of Kaffiristan, all I have seen of it are a few feathers. + +Merula more common, _Anthus_, _Timalia_, observed. + +To-day one good specimen of a splendid pinus, allied to P. longifolia, +was brought from the mountains, where it is found _among snow_: this +makes the third species; one cultivated at Candahar near a mosque; the +short-leaved _Julghozeh_, from Tazeen; and this one which has as fine a +cone as can be wished. + +Where did the profusion of Justicia Adhatoda which I find here come from, +is it not a distinct species? + +_March 2nd_.--Proceeded to Chugur Serai, started from the other side of +the ferry at 11.30 A.M., and reached at 4 P.M. No halt of any +consequence on the road. Passed Nachung at 12.50: the first rocky ground +occurred at the narrow part of the north side of the valley 2.25. + +15th.--And thence to Chugur 4 P.M., distance certainly thirteen miles. + +Road decent, good about half-way, where it extends over cultivation on +firm ground, then over rocky, stony, raviny ground. From the 12.50 +station, the valley becomes much narrower, and the river confined to one +bed: cultivation scanty, between this and Chugur, where, about 400 yards +of excessively difficult ground occurred, commanded by the precipice +under which the path, which is execrable, runs. It is quite impassable +for guns. + +After this the country traversed seemed to be well cultivated: and even +picturesque. + +The fort is nothing particular; it is placed on the right bank of the +river, which is deep, narrow and raviny: descent to the river abrupt. The +bridge very richly ornamented, and of curious and simple Bootan timber +construction. + +Town small, and the people very civil: I lodged in Meer Alum's own house. + +Iris crocifolia abundant, towards Chugur, a Mazus or Stemodia. + +Mimosa that of the Khyber, common, Polygoni in abundance on the rocks, +Dodonaea. + +The hills about Pushut are here only recognisable in two instances, the +central one presenting three peaks, next to it the barren cliff, and the +three mountains south-west of Dhurrah. + +_3rd_.--Proceeded to Bala Chugur Serai, which is not more than six miles +up the river, occasionally passing along the stony bank under hills, +otherwise over cultivation, which is conducted in terraces. + +The scenery pretty, reminding me of low parts of Bootan, although much +more barren; watercourses well made: two _kafir_ ruins passed; valley +very narrow, but rather straight. Both chakor and small partridges +common. Vegetation is here the same as elsewhere. Zaitoon trees, +Mimosa, Euonymus, Dodonaea, Amygdalus in abundance, Polygonum of +yesterday. + +The stony slopes of hills, covered with Andropogoneous grasses. Rice, +beans, wheat, oranges, _toot_, _chanra_. Narcissus in swarms, brought in +from the _kafirs_. + +Another bridge was here crossed, the same as at lower Chugur Serai. No +tributaries passed, the river fordable at rapids, but the road is not +passable for guns. + +Aquila, Enicurus, Alcedo bengalensis common, as well as jack snipe. + +Red-billed crow, chakor, yellow wagtail, Fringilla, Muscicapa in flocks, +feeding in the fields, and from trees on insects. + +The blackbird of the Himalayas, wild pigeons. Narcissus in abundance in +sandy fields, Cryptandrioid, Clematis, Rubus, Euonymus, Pteris! + +We had an interview with the _kafirs_ or infidels about a mile below +Katoor, they seemed at first much alarmed, our retinue not being small or +unarmed, and their reliance on Mussulman faith not very strong. They +took up their post at the foot of a hill where a deputation of the Khan +of Chugur Serai, (who has married a Chief's daughter) met them; they +received the deputation with a _feu de joie_ from one or two +firelocks, and then accompanied him to us, preceded by two drums, one of +ordinary, the other of an hour-glass shape, and two pipes of gramineous +culm, with three or four holes, and apparently oblique mouth-pieces, but +of ordinary sound. The Chiefs, the head of whom is Hussin Ali's father- +in-law, having been introduced, advanced, and commenced turning and +stamping round a circle. + +The usual formalities then took place; the followers, although a fine +bodied people, and very active, were excessively dirty, and not very +fair; most were dressed in skins, having the hair inside, armed with +bows, either straight or like cow's horns, and daggers. + +The Chiefs were much fairer than their followers, and in the expression +of face and eyes European; but in all cases the forehead was very +slanting, and head generally badly developed. + +Their dress consisted of cotton frocks, with slashed sleeves, embroidered +thickly with worsted network: they wear short _pyjamas_, and skin shoes, +with thick skin soles; one had short boots with hair inside: most were +ornamented with the blue and yellow _longhys_ of Pushut, etc. The hair +is cut short except that of the Chiefs, who had fillets left round their +heads, adorned with cowries, in radiated shapes, with a red, worsted, +pendant tassel. The headman had a pendant wire chain with ornaments, and +from the centre of the tassel, the _Monaul_ pheasant feathers, and his +back hair was plaited into many little tails. + +Almost all had necklaces of beads, the better sort silver earrings (plain +rings), and some pendant silver ornaments; many had bracelets, ornamented +with brass; _kumurbunds_ of plain white cloths: the poor ones have their +heads naked, or with bits of cloth wrapped round. + +They had no swords, but Hindoostany ones, and of these very few. + +Even their archery, Macgregor says is bad; one or two had spears, the +Chief's spear was provided with a very long head, and ornamented with +cowrie shells at the top of the _haft_; two women came afterwards, their +necks loaded with cowries and bits of bones, but otherwise well clothed +with the usual gowns, the outer one without sleeves and very wide arm +holes. They were decorated with very coarse, large, circular earrings. +They approached the rest singing in chorus, not unmelodiously, but with +very little variation in notes. Then a whistle, general and loud from +the whole party, representing their rejoicing over a slaughtered +Mussulman. + +On the whole these people present nothing peculiar as compared with other +hill people: like them they are vindictive, savage, poor, dirty, +remarkable for great cupidity, fond of red cloth, beads, etc. They are a +mixed race, some are like Indians, some like Europeans, but in all the +forehead is low, Tartar eyes, often light brown or grey, hair often +light. Put them among the Nagas, etc. of the Assam frontier, and none +would notice them. + +The Chief's son wore a black, narrow band round his head, ornamented +behind with a few cowries and bone ornaments. + +They are independent, appear to delight in talking of their victories +over the Mussulmans, but the oddest peculiarity as compared with +Asiatics, is their shaking hands, which was certainly done with us in the +European custom. + +The limits of the firs, are as strict as those of Baloot, etc., of the +latter it may be stated as between 3,500 to 5,600 feet, of the firs +between 5,500 and 8,000; what makes me say this is, that at Katoor the +mountains are covered with heavy snow, and are naked above, but with +heavy pine forest below, and then with forests of Baloot. + +_5th_.--Ascended the hills to about 200 feet above the limits of inferior +snow, which may be estimated at about 4,500 feet. + +These hills from 3,500 feet and upwards, are well wooded, presenting no +peculiarity in the distribution of the woods, which are thin, or thickish +only in sheltered parts, down ravines, etc. but presenting a great +peculiarity in the small variety of forms, for there are not more than +three kinds of trees, and not more than a dozen shrubs: the trees are +Baloot, which commence at the base, and ascend to the pines, say a height +of 4,000 feet: Zaitoon, which commences at the base, and scarcely extends +beyond 5,000 feet, Xanthoxylon, which has a wider range than Zaitoon, is +comparatively rare. + +The inclination of these hills is steep, but the ascent is not more +extraordinarily difficult, they are covered with masses and blocks of +rock, which are plentifully clothed with lichens and mosses, but of small +variety of species. The more open parts are covered with Andropogoneous +grasses; the lemon-grass occurs below. + +The shrubs and trees are as follows with their Pushtoo names-- + +Zanthoxylon, _Schneae khinfuch_, +Quercus Baloot, _Ichairraye_. +Olea, _Khoo-unn Zaitoon_. +Amygdalus, _Budam_, _Junglee Tulk_. +Nanus, _Naguhn_. +Celtis, _Tanghuh_. +Cyrtisoid of Bolan, _Wooraijoa_. +Periploca, _Burrara_, _Banduk_. +Cotoneaster of Tazeen, _Khurrowa_. +Euonymus, _Churroghzye_. +Dodonaea , _Wroolarskye_. +Artemisia, _Tuhakar_. +Rubus, _Khusuhurra_. + +The higher ridges are crowned with beautiful pines; the most common on +this side is called _Nukhtur_, and has not eatable seeds, its timber is +in general use--and it is in much vogue for torches. + +The _Julghozeh_ also is met with, but rarely. Abundance of firewood. + +Ixioides very common, and now in flower, Amygdalus, _Budam_, also, this +is common, and a curious Irideous plant, allied to Crocus; one Arum +likewise occurs. Pigeons very wary, mostly of the green sort with +whitish wing-coverts; a pretty small-sized Jay occurs, with a jerking +bobtailed flight, a strong-billed Parus, of the climbing sub-genus, +Chakors common. + +_March 6th_.--Rain almost all day. + +_7th_.--Unsettled weather continues. To-day the _kafirs_ came in with +plants of a decided Himalayan nature, a beautiful Iris, the flowers of +which are of a deep indigo-blue, a Viburnum, Euonymus, Valeriana, +Juniperus, Spiraeacea, Adiantum, Asplenium, Pteris, etc. + +How strangely intelligent all hill people are, and how they are urged by +an insatiable love of money. I never expected any thing to be brought +in, judging of the _kafirs_ as I have learnt to do of Affghans and +Indians, and here they have in one day, without even a lesson, brought in +excellent specimens, including mosses, etc. I went out to-day to the end +of Meer Alum's territory, this boundary being about one and a quarter +miles beyond Shingan. The valley up to this is beautifully cultivated, +and begins to look green. Saw and shot another Myophonus, a Saxicola and +an Alcedo, the common one of India; this species has strengthening +splints, as it were on both mandibles: and the feet, etc. have no scales, +being very different from those of the generality of birds. + +Myophonus I take to be the large beautiful metallic-blue blackbird, with +obscure and elegant white markings. I have observed common to all hills +I have seen, and is always found in damp wet places, this bird is very +wary, and in carriage much like the English blackbird, on alighting from +its short flight, flirting its tail about, etc. This bird leads me to +remark how widely the river chats are distributed. The beautiful white- +crowned black and red species, and the grey, with a red tail, are found +about all hill streams in the north-eastern parts of India; the latter is +a curious bird, radiating its tail out constantly. Enicurus is also +widely distributed. + +I also got to-day a beautiful male Lophophorus, the plumage of which +surpasses description; it is a heavy bird, with brown irides, and a +brownish-chesnut tail; it came from Daiwag. + +I met with five _kafirs_, when out to-day, only one would come to me; he +was a very tall man, with a savage face, light keen eyes, returning from +a forage on the Safis: he was an _Arunsha_ man, and a _Tor kafir_, who +are represented as very different from the _Espheen_ or white ones, who +are found in the mountains adjacent to Balk, etc. Arunsha is three days +journey from this, and has a lame, or one-_legged_ chief, _Dheemoo_; my +friend's name was _Bazaar_, he was armed with a matchlock taller than +himself, and the usual dagger. How they compete with the Mussulmans I +cannot imagine, as they can only fight in close quarters, and for which +they have daggers about six inches long in the blade. + +The _Kafir_ names of the plants brought in are as follows:-- + +* _Praitsoo_, Hedera. + _Akrumah_, Iris. +* _Kreemapotak_, Melanthium. + _Daisoo_, Urtica urens? +* _Joh_, Laricoides. + _Wheeree_, Ephedroides. +* _Amarr_, Rhamnea. + _Whishtur_, Juniperus. +* _Traih_, Quercus. +* _Unzoomal_, Spireaea. + _Gutsuttur_, Viola. + +Of these, those marked with an asterisk have no affinity at all with the +Khorassan Flora: nothing can show the change in the Flora of Katoor +better than this, that two _kafirs_ bring in one day, without having +their attention directed to ferns, as many species as I have obtained in +all that part of Khorassan I have visited, amounting to 1,000 miles in +different latitudes and at very various elevations. The following are +the kafir names for the corresponding words:-- + +_Darr_, Mountain. _Wussut_, Goat. +_Trimm_, Snow. _Wemmi_, Doomba sheep. +_Trosse_, Ice. _Sovurr_, Hog. +_Wishin_, Rain. _Kookoor_, a Fowl. +_Earr_, Clouds. _Melli_, Bread. +_Populass_, Lightning. _Ow_, Water. +_Doodoowunn_, Thunder. _Undah_, Meat. +_Tsaih_, Sun. _Ornachoa_, Skin. +_Mass_, Moon. _Haddi_, Bone. +_Tarah_, Star. _Jeet_, Body. +_Geutte_, Jungul. _Shai_, Head. +_Julla_, Tree. _Ash_, Face. +_Poutte_, Leaf. _Uchain_, Eyes. +_Pushe_, Flower. _Jibb_, Tongue. +_Bhee_, Seed. _Mass_, Nose. +_Tat_, Father. _Dhermurr_, Neck. +_Zfee_, Mother. _Kaitss_, Hair. +_Porottr_, Boy, Son. _Deh_, Beard. +_Jhoo_, Girl, Daughter. _Troh_, Chest. +_Moochook_, a little Girl. _Booh_, Arm. +_Ooruttur_, a large ditto. _Ungree_, Hand. +_Birra_, Brother. _Sichupput_, Fingers. +_Soose_, Sister. _Noach_, Nail. +_Tsoon_, Dog. _Dust oungree_, Thumb. +_Pishash_, Cat. _Koorr_, Leg. +_Goh_, Cow. _Papoa_, Foot. +_Ghora_, Horse. + +The mixture of Hindoostanee names is very curious indeed, particularly +those names of things which, from being indigenous, one would suppose +would have indigenous names. + +_7th_.--Went up to Bharowl and returned to-day, March 9th, first went to +Loongurze, the Barometer at which stood 24.758. Therm. in sun 85 +degrees. Bharowl is a small plain, but still three or four times larger +than Loongurze, and perhaps 100 feet below it: this place is up the +ravine leading to the fourth peak of the west side, which same peak must +be between 9,000 to 10,000 feet high. Loongurze is visible from this, +and is more to the south. + +The villages consist of several houses forming a sort of wall; outside, +the houses are of one story, with terraced roof, supported by timbers, +they are built of stones, slabs of micaceous slate, which is the +prevailing rock, and timbers interposed as ties; the rooms are very dark, +and very dirty, with no outlet for the smoke. The only part of the +furniture worth noticing consists of an inverted conical basket, made out +of the stems of some large grass, coated with mud, and truncated at the +top, used to keep grain in. The under, or ground floor appears to be +used for the domestic animals which are cows, goats, fowls, etc. The +inhabitants of Bharowl, _Bhawiolis_, are a _kafir_ race with a Mussulman +cast of countenance, but fair, of an unhealthy look, with in many cases +light hair, and generally light eyes, they are a rather large tribe, and +appear to have but few wants, are very poor, and very dirty; the better +part of the men are clothed in Cashgar, _chargas_, and ordinary cotton +under-garments; the women dress in blue. Both villages are on the limit +of inferior snow at this season; there is enough of cultivation about to +supply their wants, chiefly wheat and barley, and a sort of pea. +Loongurze is infested with a villainous midge, of the same genus as that +of the Naga Hills, but few are to be found at Bharowl. + +At Loongurze I met a Khungurlye slave, of the caste Krungurlye, the head- +quarters of which are at a mountain village, about eight _cos_ off, in a +north-west direction. The chief of Koorungul is Ahmed Khan, he is +independent: his village having 400 men, well armed. + +The man wore a goat skin jacket without sleeves, a skull cap of camel +hair netted, and leggings to the ancle of the same, to keep off the +midges; these leggings are likewise used at Bharowl for the same purpose. +The following is a specimen of the Krungurlye dialect. + +_Baba_, Father. _Wurrik_, Water. +_Aiee_, Mother. _Soourr_, Hog. +_Lohideck_, Brother. _Kookoor_, Fowl. +_Trizzai_, Sister. _Ow_, Bread. +_Khleck_, Woman. _Trull_, Jungul. +_Gillor_, Horse. _Psan-sa_, Cat. + +The Krungurlies are said to have been _kafirs_, converted long ago. They +are now quite Mussulman in appearance. They were doubtless originally a +mixture of European and Tartar races driven by persecution to the hills, +to which they are still perhaps restricted by the cause which led to +their original isolation. + +I tried to ascend the ridge, but the snow was impracticable even within +700 feet of the village. The _Nakhtur_, or Pinus, which is the +prevailing feature above Bharowl, is the same as the Tazeen one, and is a +Cedrus or _Abils_, leaves very short, cones erect and elegant, but only +broken ones could be found. The ridge and its face is quite covered with +them, they grow singly. Huge masses of micaceous rocks are scattered +here and there, some are of gigantic size. + +The Baloot is the next most common tree, but I fancy it does not extend +beyond 7,500 feet; this is in general use for firewood, many of the +trees, especially below, are much damaged, and on these the leaves are +generally very thorny. Next is the Zaitoon, but it is not common in this +direction, although common a mile to the south on the ridge first +ascended. The soil is now saturated with snow water, and appears good +and plentiful. The want of soil is another reason why the lower ranges +are so barren, but this is just the contrary of what would be expected. + +In spite of the beauty and fineness of these forests, there is still the +Khorassan paucity of forms. Many herbaceous plants are doubtless hid +under the snow, but few shrubs were to be seen: the Mespilus of Tazeen +being the most common at 6,000 to 7,000 feet, a Thymus, Labiata, Olea +fragrans, Ocymoidea, two or three Crucifera; Sedum pictum observed, and +Melanthaceae which has fragrant flowers, is very common. The rocks are +covered with mosses, Grimmia pulvinaloides, every where in profusion. New +forms consist of a fine Tortula and an Anictangioid, with leaves white, +and membranous from the middle upwards. + +Birds, a black and white Erythaca, eyes fuscous-brown; the wood pigeon; a +jay, which is a beautiful bird, irides light brown; a small woodpecker, +with a greenish subcrest; the _Parus_; a thrush not obtained; Parus +caerulens; a pretty red-crowned small Fringilla, eyes light brown; common +crow, chakor, bearded vulture; a wren, not obtained, with irides light +brown, but with exactly the manners of Troglodytis. Chamaerops, +_Maizurrye_ used for netting ropes for bedsteads, Viscum of Baloot, used +for food of domestic animals. + +Wild goats, sheep, an ass-like animal (_Goomasht_), and a fox which is +handsome, of large size, and common. + +_8th_.--Returned. + +The _Kafirs_ have a game exactly the same as the English leap-frog, +called by them _Shutruck_. They were very much astonished at my +understanding it. They are miserable marksmen, and were even at small +distances unable to strike a large object, as for instance a hat at +twenty yards, although offered a handsome reward; nor can they shoot at +all at long distances. They are in this respect quite below Khasyas and +Booteas. + +[Ridge near Loongurze: m466.jpg] + +_March 9th_.--Yesterday evening a female of Lophophorus, was brought +in, and a beautiful pheasant, having claret-coloured neck. Body +otherwise fuscous and blackish-brown, having a blackish-green head, white +cheeks and fine transverse crest, as large as a middle-sized fowl. +Apparently a new subgenus of Phasianus. + +_11th_.--Swallows have now come in here. They are apparently a different +species from the Pushut kind. + +_12th_.--The large-headed lark has also come in, so that there is a +difference of twelve or fourteen days between this part of the country +and Pushut, where it was first seen, although this is only 500 feet +higher, and about thirteen miles farther north. + +The universality of the common crow is curious, especially when +contrasted with the circumscribed locality of Jackdaws. The Indian +Jackdaw is never found in hills. + +A common plover was brought in yesterday, the wing quills had been taken +out, and its gestures on being liberated were most absurd, and although +originating from fright, were much allied to pride, its head reclining on +its neck, the latter curved, and the feet lifted high into a stately +walk, while the crest was disposed in a most supercilious manner. + +I have got into great request here as a physician, entirely I apprehend +owing to the people's faith in _vilayuti daroo_, or English medicine, +especially calomel and cream of tartar, a combination of which has proved +an universal panacea. + +Goitre is common here, and the place in the hot months is said to be very +unhealthy, fever and jaundice carry off numbers of people. The Affghans, +strange to say, have no popular medicines, but they are an unintelligent +race in many other points. They are aware of bloodletting, which they +practise most indiscriminately. + +_13th_.--Unsettled weather. Heavy thunderstorm in the evening with +clouds over the western range. + +_14th_.--Beautifully clear, a genuine spring beauty on all sides. + +The common _Maina_ of these parts is a gregarious bird, which feeds +generally on the ground, but is rarely associated with cattle, to which +the Indian species are so addicted: this is an intelligent bird, although +from its nature not unnecessarily shy. + +It is fond of singing; its notes are very varied, but not very musical, +including all sorts of intonations. + +While so employed, the bird every now and then bobs his head suddenly +down three or four times, much for the same purpose perhaps, as our +public singers in the production of certain notes. I do not know whether +these actions of the bird are really associated with particular notes, +although they generally seem to accompany certain very flat and very base +notes, not unlike the clerk of a coachman. + +The snow is rapidly disappearing, rain having a most powerful effect even +at the summit of the pine ridges: it is fast melting, and no new snow has +fallen, although it has been raining occasionally during the last three +days, and the sun has been altogether obscured. + +Generally on the high Kuttoor range, fresh snow has fallen, a proof of +the great height of that range. + +Two species of Corydalis, the first Iris and Colchicum I had found in +Kaffiristan. Corydalis is another analogy with the genuine Himalayan +Flora. + +Jackals were heard here for the first time, although they were heard many +days ago at Pushut. + +_15th_.--The antilopoid animal called Suja, has horns both on the male +and female, it occurs in small herds fifteen to twenty in the wooded +mountains, its hair is of the same structure as in the Moschiferus +antilope; colour brown. Height to the shoulder two feet six inches; its +height does not increase or decrease perceptibly behind; length of neck +seven inches. Length of back from root of tail to nape of neck two feet +eight inches. + +The Lophophorus is called _Moorghi Zureem_, it is a very gorgeously +coloured bird, but of heavy make; the tail is always carried erect. +Length of body two feet one inch; the girth of the body at the shoulder +including wings, seventeen to eighteen inches. Length of neck from +commencement of the crest to the base of the under mandible, five to six +inches. + +The bird is not uncommon, being found on all the hills about here, and +apparently at no great elevations. + +_16th_.--The _Ungoor_, Ficus cordifolia is the first tree that buds. The +Platanus, _Thagur_; Morus coming into flower, vegetation being very +rapid. + +A captive fox brought in, a fine and a handsome animal, with greyish fur +inclining to fuscous on the back, and with blackish points at the back of +ears, which are large, and dark-brown; eyes light yellowish-brown. + +Measured as follows from:-- + +Shoulder to base of tail, 1 feet 3 inches. +Shoulder to tip of nose, 1 feet 0 inches. +Height at shoulder, 1 feet 4 inches. +Height at loins, 1 feet 6.5 inches. +Total length, 3 feet 8 inches. +Length of tail, 1 feet 7 inches. + +There is also a nocturnal beast here which has a voice something like a +jackal, but more of a bark. Shot one of the small grey, white-rumped +water robins, which was examining a wall for insects, and fluttering +about the holes in it. I saw two Carbos (cormorants), distinct from any +I had hitherto seen, very black, with some white marks. The common black +one also occurs. + +_17th_.--Proceeded to Chugur Pair; the time occupied by the journey, +excluding stoppages, was two hours and four minutes, at the rate of three +and a quarter miles an hour. + +Tulipa in abundance in fields, a beautiful species, external sepals rosy +outside, odour faint but sweet. + +On a ridge near Chugur Pair is a curious ruin, viz. a long wall. + +The mountain is too high to enable me to say what it is like. The tulip +has a tendency to produce double flowers: one specimen seen with a +regular three-leaved perianth, eight stamina, and four carpellary ovary, +angles opposite the outer perianth leaves; the upper leaf or bract has a +tendency to become petaloid. If the anthers are pulled, the filaments +are separated from them and remain as subulate white pointed processes. + +_19th_.--Labiata, Ocymoidea, Salvia! erect, ramose, foliis rugosis, +verticillatis; spicatis racemosis. _Cal_. bilabiata supra planisculis, +medio carinatus, _Cor_. pallida, caerulea, bilabiata, labio superiora +subfornicata: lateralibus subrevolutis. See Catalogue No. 52, in fields +Chugur Pair, common on grassy banks. + +A curious tendency is observed in Pomaceae, Ceraseae to have the stamina +of the same colour as the petals, thereby _showing their origin_? How +is it explained that in some transformations of this, the anthers alone +are petaliformed, while in others both filament and anther are equally +and primarily affected. + +The female Lophophorus has been living on nothing for at least a week; +its voice is various, sometimes not unlike that of a large hawk, at +others a cackle, or low chuckle; occasionally it runs forward, erecting +its crest, and spreading out its tail like a fan, the _tail being_ +_depressed_. I fancy it roosts in trees not unlike certain pigeons, +Haematornis one species come in, this genus I think represents Parus: it +has the same fluttering clinging habits, it often sallies forth like +Merops after insects, the genus is remarkable for the yellow or red +colour of the under tail-covers, it is a noisy bird, and not wary until +so taught by experience. I doubt its power of singing. The so called +Bulbul, _hazari dastar_, the famous songster, is not a real _bulbul_, +but either Alaudina or a stonechat. + +With Haematornis has appeared a fine Merops, of which I have not yet got +a specimen; its habits were quite those of Merops, and it made the same +noise: it occurred with Haematornis. + +Chugur is a large extent of ruins, traces of paths are visible leading to +the houses, mere huts built of slabs of slate. There is one square part +remaining much like the base of one of the topes to which it assimilates; +the building, is of slabs of wood and stone, intervening. What could +have induced the Mussulmans to build on such horridly hard barren and hot +places, with no water near? or did they occupy places taken from the +_Kafirs_. The latter I should think most likely from the names, which +are evidently _Kafir_. + +_20th_.--The bird alluded to yesterday, was again seen to-day. I +remember shooting the same species at elevations of 8,000 feet in Bootan, +in oak forests. It has the habits of Merops, with its voice or chirp, +and is very gregarious, so that one part of the flock will not separate +from the rest. It perches in a very erect manner making swoops and +sallies after insects precisely as Merops. Plumage sombre, general +colour slaty, quills and crest blackish, bill and feet orange, tail +forked. + +Is this bird of the sub-family Brachypodinae, or is it a Fissirostral +bird; the wings, although graduated as to the two first quills (the first +being half spurious) are still long, and may be called pointed. It +obviously has much analogy? with the Drongo shrikes in habits, and in +forked tail: as well as in lengthened body? Both it and Haematornes are +very local, none being found here but just around a village called +Pillipote, a favourite station--Zaitoon trees, or naked Bakkeins. +Haematornis I have seen feeding on the ground, this species has the same +voice as that of the genus generally. + +The yellowish _Bunting-like_ water-wagtail, is very common just now: it +occurs in wheat fields; flight, chirp, and mode of getting up when +disturbed just as in the Buntings. + +Weather very unsettled, heavy rain and thunder last night, and now +threatening a gale. + +_21st_.--Returned towards Pushut: a Lanius, but not the one shot, was +seen near the road in bushes. + +_22nd_.--Of the four red-billed Shrikes, two are male and female, sexes +alike, stomach fleshy like that of Haematornis, but food entirely +vegetable: the two female stomachs contained each a seed of the _Bukkein_ +(Melia): the two males contained fragments of buds, perhaps of a willow, +but not a vestige of an insect, so their swooping and sallying is a mere +analogical representation of Merops. In Haematornis contents of stomach +chiefly vegetable, partly of insects. + +_26th_.--Very rainy and unsettled weather, thunder and lightning. + +_27th_.---Clearing up: heavy rain in some parts of the night, otherwise +fine. + +_28th_.--A beautiful morning. Went to Kooner, distance twelve to +thirteen miles: for three miles the road was dangerous but tolerably +decent, no defiles being passed, in which murderers were likely to lurk, +very little difference in seasons between this and Pushut. + +_29th_.--Returned again to Pushut. The country about Pushut is one sheet +of cultivation, studded with trees; so thick are these that few villages +are discernible in consequence. Nothing particularly notable occurred, +except that a tulip is common in the fields about Kooner, but not found +in those about Pushut: it occurs also with Amaryllideae, which is +likewise a stranger to Pushut. What is the reason of the ruined forts so +common in this country? One would think that it were useless to pull +down or destroy a good fort, when it is the intention of building +another, so that they are scarcely to be accounted for from a succession +of conquerors. + +The country has, and always will be, a distracted one. I observe that in +all parts approaching mountains, in which the chief danger of robbery +exists, that there are generally people and especially boys tending +cattle, so that they must probably be familiar with robberies and +murders, and seeing these done so openly, so easily, and so securely, +they may well be imagined to become ready scholars. So even if the stock +already existing in the robbers' sons, etc., were deficient, others would +be found ready to take up the profession. The Kooner Dhurrah, or valley, +is a very fine one, it is a good instance of the peculiar kind of slope +or _talus_, so common in this country. The soil in such places being so +stony as to be useless for cultivation. Low parts entering into the +valley become useful for wheat, that is, if rain falls early, these +Dhurrahs are formed or filled by debris from the surrounding hills, +carried down by torrents, which are constantly changing their beds, the +outline of the edge is circular, such as that of a sand bank at the mouth +of a river, the finer particles being of course carried furthest down. + +The Kooner valley may be considered as the second; the Shaiwa distinct +forming the first; it continues as far as the bend to Chugur Pair; its +beginning is close to Kooner village, near the ferry where the valley is +much contracted. + +_31st_.--The beautiful Smyrna kingfisher of India, with metallic plumage, +chocolate-brown underneath, occurs at Kooner. + +The common kite is very expert in seizing objects with its claws while +flying: as is the Pondicherry falcon. They are often seen about standing +water, fishing I fancy with their claws for shells, etc. on the surface. + +The late rain has caused a torrent down Dhurrah Bader, and the fields and +low grounds about Choke have been inundated; about these spots, birds +have collected in numbers, the common crow taking advantage of the +circumstance had turned as it were, kingfisher, swooping about like the +kite. There were two species of Laridae, neither of which I had seen +before, several small Tringae, the very long red shanked bird, Hematopus? +the metallic Tantalus, common, jack-snipe, and hosts of Budytes, which +were busily employed flying and flitting about after insects. Edolius +occurs at Kooner as well as here. The number of birds is small +certainly, although the trees, etc. are now in full leaf: no new birds +seem to have come in, except the dove, and Edolius; neither Haematornis +nor Brachypus yet observed, one or two fresh species of Alaudina, and +stonechats have made their appearance. It is curious that the larks do +not remain above a few days, none are to be seen now, that the crops are +barely a foot high. + +The female Monaul is going on well, though obliged to be crammed, for +though it takes water voluntarily it will not take food. It is a very +domestic bird, and fond of notice, its voice on such occasions is +pleasing, on some others very harsh and hawk or eagle-like. Its manners +are curious, depressing its tail, and arching its neck, and pecking at +imaginary objects in a curious way. From the expressive manner in which +it looks up at sunset on surrounding objects, especially trees, it is +obviously accustomed to roost. + +_April 1st_.--Pushut Fort. + +_4th_.--Weather unsettled: a slight rumbling sound of an earthquake was +felt yesterday evening, the atmosphere at the time being very close: this +was succeeded by a squall. Strong winds are prevalent, generally +easterly: clear sunshine is evidently of rare continuance at Pushut: +little snow remains except towards Bharawul. + +I was much struck this morning with the entire disappearance of a green +mantle of Confervoid scum from the surface of a foul pool close to my +quarters. Yesterday the pool was quite green, now there is no green, nor +any traces of the scum except such portion as was not in the water but +round the margins. + +_6th_.--Proceeded to Chugur-Serai, which place was reached after marching +3 h. 10 m. at three miles an hour. Ocharrye one of the peaks near this +is deep in snow; it is much higher than Speencas. The season here is now +nearly as forward as it is at Kooner, although on my last visit sixteen +days ago, it was fifteen days behind, but the narrowness of the valley +must increase the heat much. + +Great delay occurred in crossing the Pushut river, which is much swollen +from the heavy rain on the 4th. Thunder and hailstone common, clear days +decidedly rare in the spring of these parts. + +Edolius occurs here, another stonechat has come in. + +_7th_.--Proceeded to Otipore, which took 8 h. 9 m. to perform the +journey; very unsettled weather. Yesterday several thunderstorms, and +heavy rain. + +_10th_.--Clearing up, went to Bharawul; and returned on the 12th. I was +much disappointed at the paucity of forms, for I did not get ten species, +not met with before. The flora of the fir woods amounts to almost +nothing, Colchicum straggles up now and then, this and a grass or Carex, +a Caprifoliaceous shrub, and Cotoneaster of Tazeen, and Fragaria are the +only forms. The oak as it gets to higher altitudes assumes a different +form, probably it is a different species, for the leaves are much less +coriaceous, and are not glaucous underneath, otherwise there is little +difference between it and the common Baloot, the chief plants found +occurred in the clearings, which surround Bharawul to some extent. +Alliaria is very common; also Tulipa. In this variety the dehiscence of +the anthers continues until, from a single simple pore, a line reaching +nearly the whole length of the anther is formed: a very pretty and sweet +smelling Anemone common, Viola, Rumex, Thalictrum a rather fine species, +Hedera, Rubia cordifolia, Valeriana, Corydalis, Fragaria, Thlaspidea, +Sambucus, Ebulus adonis, Berberis, Equisetum, Clematis, Urtica urens, +were noticed, either in cultivation or on the edge of the clearings. Poor +as the flora is, I see no chance of its promising much variety, for I +observe few other plants showing themselves: several ferns were met with +in moist places, and under rocks, two Asplenia, one undetermined; +Aspidioides very common in some places, but of last year. + +The soil is deepish and good, when wet it is subtenacious. The _Nukhtur_ +is a large tree, seventy to eighty feet high; one of an average size +measured fourteen feet in girth, four feet from the base. The slopes of +the mountain are steep, and the ravines very rocky: on the ridges between +these, the ground is covered with soil. Colchicum observed as high as +7,500 feet. I returned another way, keeping along the large ravine that +drains the mountain to the north, and which falls into the Otipore river, +below Shinegam. + +Buddlea was noticed at 5,800 feet, Hyacinthus throughout from this to +Bharawul; _Nurgiss_ 5,800 feet, Impatiens the same as the species below +5,000, Myrsinea ditto, Fraxinus is very common about 4,000 feet, it is +very easily mistaken for the Xanthoxylon, which appears common over most +parts of Khorassan. The range of the Cytisus, which is a beautiful sweet +smelling shrub, is extensive, it may be included here between 3,000 and +7,000 feet: associated with it between 4,000 to 4,500 feet is a Caragana, +and about this occurs a fine Salveoideo-Dracocephalum. + +The limit of the Baloot may be taken at 4,000 feet, but in sheltered +ravines it descends lower. + +Euonymus _Moamunna_, Periplocea, scarcely extend above 4,000 feet, +neither do the spirescent Astragali, these are succeeded by two or three +espinous species, one the same as the Astragalus stipulis magnis of the +river towards Pironi. Amygdalus ranges between 3,500 and 7,000 feet, the +pretty Cerasus does not extend above 4,000 feet. There appears to be +another Amygdalus above. + +The chief vegetation of the mountain below 6,000 feet appears to be a +tufted coarse Andropogoneous grass, and in such situations as this +occupies, little soil is to be found; the Baloot, and Zaitoon, are +confined to sheltered places. Above they occur indiscriminately on all +faces, but Zaitoon is rare at such elevations; few birds were observed, +the most common about Bharawul are an Emberizoid and a Certhia? Muscicapa +flammea was seen at 7,000 feet in pine forests with several Sittae: in +these forests and about Bharawul, only one Garrulus was heard, and few +woodpigeons were seen. The Picus is still common, Myophorus now extends +up to Bharawul. Parus caeruleus still continues. Another female +Nemorrhaedus is brought in with young: the breeding time probably takes +place two months later. The Merula before found below, now occurs in +flocks about Bharawul. + +According to the natives there is only about twenty days difference in +the seasons of cutting wheat and barley; this is probably not true, yet +it is borne out by the Tulip, Cytisus and Hyacinth. + +The village has been founded five years since, and contains 180 souls. +The burial ground contains sixteen graves, which will give the annual +percentage of mortality. At Otipore the mortality is said to be great. +Whence do these people get their curious grey eyes, and light hair? + +Daphne extends to Bharawul. + +_14th_.--The kingcrow is now in here, also Columba, and Lanius; this last +has an unceasing jarring chirp, it has however considerable powers of +voice. + +Sitta feeds on seeds as well as on insects, but the structure of its +stomach is insectivorous. + +The female Monaul died yesterday. I heard some of these birds in the +pine forests of Bharawul, their voice being very loud and grating; the +female was a good tempered bird, capable of attachment, when caressed its +notes were pleasing. + +_15th_.--The Hoopoe seen; another fish brought in to-day, the usual +mountainous form, but with a very rough nose. + +The Edolius is here the earliest and the latest daily bird. I observed +several to-day on a tree making a great noise with their harsh chirp, at +each chirp the tail was for the instant jerked out like a fan. + +_17th_.--A single parrot seen flying overhead. + +_19th_.--What is the bodily strength of man to that of insects! I have +just been watching an ant dragging the body of a hornet, many times +larger than itself, up a door with the greatest ease; so much so, that +after dragging it up three feet, it came down to alter its position, +carrying it up a second time by its wing: the ant was of a large species. + +_23rd_.--Pastor came in to-day, an elegant bird, eyes nearly white, +tinged with grey; legs and beak yellow, base of gape leaden-blue, +junction of yellow and blue parts greenish! + +_26th_.--Mango bird first seen today, another dove came in about the +23rd. Quail coming in, Pastor roseus. + +Every plant from the Kafir hills convinces me that they are Himalayan in +their features, and that about this the transition between the American +and genuine European forms takes place. Thus I have seen Asperula, two +and three European looking Ranunculi. + +Cratoegus, etc. in addition to the other forms, before alluded to. + +There is a rather fine _sissoo_ near Sheargar, it is curious that it is +later in coming into leaf than any other tree. Does this indicate its +being of a more tropical nature than the others? on the contrary, the +Bukkeim is now in flower, also Citrus. + +The Affghans are fond of Amaryllideae, _Gratool_, _Goolab_, and Lonicera, +in the season of the two former, every one met has a bunch placed over +each ear. + +Observed to-day a curious monstrosity of the ovula of the Lonicera of +this place, from which it is evident, that the ovule represents a bud; +the funicle the _stalk_; the teguments convolute leaves, and the nucleus +the punctum of growth. + +Every variation was observed, generally the more leafy the outer tegument +the greater was the degree of straightness of the funicle, and the +abortion of the nucleus. + +_29th_.--To Chugur-Serai. + +_June 5th_.--Arrived at Cabul. + +The whole country between Khuggur and Koord Cabul, even including the +high ground of this, or Huft-Kotul, presents the same formation, but from +Khuggur it rises gradually, and beyond Gundamuck loses all characters of +tabularity, it consists of sand, overlying which is a bed of blocks or +often of boulders; in this sand, which is here and there easily +pulverised, (in other places it is pressed as it were into slabs of no +great thickness;) layers or beds of conglomerate frequently occur, either +regularly or irregularly; in one case two conglomerated beds approached +at an angle and then united. + +The framework or base of the country is generally limestone, sometimes +slate which presents every variety of distortion, the strata being often +vertical and wavy, no dykes were observed. The older rocks are generally +completely covered by sand and shingle, or stones; but as we approach the +boundaries of the valleys, they protrude into ridges, often of +considerable size and height. The valleys however are not entirely +bounded by these to the west, for as I have said, the plain of Koord +Cabul is reached by crossing undulations of this same formation. From +Khuggur to Gundamuck, about five stony steppes are crossed, each rising +in height above the last, and each separated by deep ravines, with one or +both banks generally precipitous, affording exit to streamlets from the +Sofaid-Koh. It is curious that the streamlets, and streams about +Gundamuck have not worn themselves half as deep channels as those about +Khuggur, although no appreciable difference is apparent in the strata. + +The surface is often rendered rugged in places by the occurrence of loose +slabs, which give the appearance of stratification to the rocks. + +It appears to me that the whole of the extreme eastern Khorassan +originally was a bed of stones or boulders, overlying a formation of pure +sand, and that its irregular surface is due to the subsequent upheavement +of the foundation ridges. The good soil is in such case necessarily +confined to the immediate neighbourhood of the streams, etc. descending +from those ridges. + +The following is a section exposed on the north boundary of the valley, +not far from Jugdulluck:-- + +[Section of valley near Jugdulluck: m476.jpg] + +The whole tract is devoid of trees, until one nears Jugdulluck, when not +only the foundation rocks, but also the stony undulated hills are dotted +with stunted trees of Baloot and Xanthoxylon. Tufted Andropogoneous +grasses form the prevailing feature, AErua also is common along the +streams: and wherever the ground retains moisture, Typha latifolia +abounds with the usual frequenters of watery spots. The road to +Gundamuck, especially the ascent of the two last steppes, is infamous; +but the regular Jallalabad road is good, having only one descent to +Neemla, and an easy ascent from that place, and thence it is over a +gentle declivity to Futtehabad. + +The spurs from the Sofaid-Koh are very numerous, and the ravines they +form show the great quantity of water derived from this ridge, their +direction is N. 45, E. The direction of the streams after emerging from +the lower ridges continues about the same. + +The Cabul and Soorkhab rivers debouche at a much greater angle. Their +direction being 95, E. The waters of both are turbid, but those of the +latter are reddish. + +Throughout the valley of Jallalabad cultivation extends alone along the +streams, many of which are entirely consumed by agricultural processes; +in no place does it bear any proportion to the uncultivated portion, +which is invariably densely strewed with stones, the smaller of which are +generally water-worn; the larger, masses of angular rock. + +White mulberries ripen in perfection at Gundamuck in the early part of +July. There is more cultivation about Khuggur occurring in a continuous +and broadish tract, than in almost any other place. + +I observed a curious tendency to anastomosis, or self-grafting in the +roots of Morus: this in its young state often has pinnatifid artacarpoid +leaves. Query, is this a sign of the greater development of Morus? or is +it in any way analogous to that progressive development existing during +the growth of every animated being? + +At Gundamuck observed Oriolus; it differs in plumage and voice from the +Indian Mango bird, which is a far more beautiful bird, with only one +note: Edolius also seen. + +Pastor and the other common birds. Merops was seen soaring over stones, +and stooping at insects; in such situations it remains long on the wing; +it does not appear to perch on any thing but withered branches. + +Composita Senecionoides occurs about Soorkhab, Reaumuria occurs half-way +between it and Gundamuck. Capparis continues to Soorkhab. Statices +common, also Campanula; and about Jugdulluck a striking Boragineous +plant, Boraginiae sp., and on the sandy pass above Barkhab, a Salvia is +found in profusion, one of the commonest grasses is Poa _cynosuroides_? + +The stem of Hippuris is worth examination, inasmuch as it consists of a +central easily separable axis, and a vertical system of great thickness, +highly cellular, so that judging _a priori_, as these cells (which are +compound) occupy the whole space between the ligneous system and the +cutis, no longitudinal vessels can exist in that part which represents +the bark. + +_15th_.--Cabul. Glycyrrhiza thermopsoides frequently presents on the non- +flowering stems, a pod-like transformation of the uppermost leaves. + +In Centaurea _cyanea_, the disposition of the limb of the ray is such +that the incomplete part or the fissure is outside. This is exactly +opposite to the disposition of the same part in true Ligulatae. + +Judging from Centaurea, the smaller lip of the bilabiate species of +Compositae ought to be situated outside. + +Erythraeoides, Glauca floribus albidis occurs on the _Chummums_. + +_16th_.--Regaled with a library: "Calumny and detraction," says +Boerhaave, "are sparks, which if you do not blow them, will go out of +themselves."--_Murphy's Johnston_, Vol. IX. p.34. + +In Johnston's Life of Drake, p.99 to 100, are some admirable remarks on +those minds, that disapprove of every strikingly novel scheme, and from +which a good motto might be chosen, should any national system be +proposed in Botany. + +What were Sir Thomas Browne's five sorts of vegetables, and what were his +remarks on the form of plants and laws of vegetation?--_See Johnston's_ +_Works_, Vol. IX. p.296. + + + +CHAPTER XXI. + + +_From Cabul to Kohi-Baba_. + +_July 17th_.--Proceeded from Cabul to Shah Bagh; cloudy weather, +occasionally a very slight shower during the last few days, depending +probably on the Punjab rains. To-day, observed a small green +caterpillar, climbing up a fine thread, like a spider's web, which hung +from the fly of the tent; its motions were precisely those of climbing, +the thread over which it had passed was accumulated between its third +pairs of legs; it did not use its mouth. + +I did not ascertain whether the thread was its own production or not; if +it was, it must have come out of its tail. + +_24th_.--The fish in the Cabul river here are, a Loach, an Oreinus, and a +Barbel; none of these grow to any size, as there is but little water left +in the river in consequence of the drain for extensive cultivation on +both the east and west sides of the city. + +Small specimens of these fish, especially the Loach and Oreinus, are +found in the canals or larger watercuts, in which the current is slow and +regular. It is curious that in the canal near the Shah Bagh, which has +been lately turned off above the Cantonment, all the specimens of the +Loach left in the pools of water were dead, while the Oreinus did not +appear to have suffered. + +This Loach is a Cobitis propria, it has the usual form of that genus, the +spots are disposed irregularly, rarely becoming banded. The shape of the +head is curious, the forehead being prominent, this gives the mouth an +appearance of unusual depression. {479} + +The country both on the east and west sides of Cabul may have been +formerly a lake. Such indeed would seem to have been the origin of all +the valleys in which there is an expanse of tillable ground, and not mere +strips confined to the banks of the draining streams. + +The eastern valley is indeed partly occupied by the large sheet of water +to the north, and the west is very marshy. The eastern one is +interspersed with low detached ranges of hills. + +The birds are a magpie, a dove, Oriolus, Pastor roseus, Pastor alter, +sparrow, water-wagtail, Hirundo, Hoopoe, Lanius, Sylvia sp., water-hen, +wild ducks on the lake, and Merops; almost all these as at Khujgal, but +no _minas_, or Edolia. + +At Urghundy occurs Potentilla quinquifolia, repens radicans pubescens, +stipulis oblongis. + +_28th_.--Halted at Koti-Ashruf. The most common plants on the Khak-i- +Sofaid pass are two or three of the small pulvinate Statices, +Senecionoides glaucescens. The yellow Asphodelus is very common, and I +also saw A. mesembryanthemifolia. At the foot of the pass, I saw +Scabiosa, which also occurred on the summit. + +First march on the Cabul side of Ghuznee. Whole tracts blue with the +Labiata Plectranthoides; at Urghundy, along a watercut, are planted +several willows of the common large-leaved kind, the bark of these on all +the older parts is cracked longitudinally, and the trunk has the +appearance of being twisted, which I have no doubt is the natural state, +the spire is from left to right. The prevailing winds are easterly. + +Bean cultivation is very common in the valley of the Cabul river to the +west beyond the Khak-i-Sofaid pass; I suspect it requires a greater +altitude than most of the other cultivated plants of Affghanistan, it +abounds in the high ground about Shaikhabad. + +_29th_.--Proceeded in the morning from Julraize to Sir-i-Chushme. The +fish of the place are the same, the Silurus being common. The two sorts +of Oreinus vary much in the length of the intestinal canal,--the +yellowish and large one having it five times: the small and less +yellowish, three and a half lengths of the body. Both these species come +close to Barbus, showing that the spinosity of the dorsal fin is a more +valuable character than that of the form of the mouth. + +The cartilaginous disc of Oreinus is a reflection outwards of the osseo- +cartilaginous part of the mouth, the fleshy part alone is the lips. +Oriolus, Upupa, and Percnopterus, continue with Columba. Grapes and +apricots _khar see_, and the common ones reach as far as this, but are +very inferior to those of Cabul; rice cultivated here and there. The +chief trees are Populus lombardensis, Salix magnifolia, and S. pendula, +Hippophae. + +At Koti-Ashruf Salix angustissima is found, and on it Cuscuta gigantea; +on to-day's march Hippophae, but this is found also at Maidan: Merops was +heard at Koti-Ashruf. In the spring of Sir-i-Chushme, a Typhoid plant +occurs in profusion, Veronicae 2, alta et repens rotundifolia, Nasturtium +aquatica, Scrophularia of Julraize, Juncus, Triglochin, and Plantago of +the green sward, everywhere between 6,000 and 11,000 feet. + +Trees end at the foot of Oonnye. + +_30th_.--Girdun Dewar. Salvia swarms up the ascent and on the descent, +but less so than before, and on the Yonutt platform it is almost absent; +Cnicus also in profusion both up and down, and on the platform Festuca +triticoides begins about half-way up; Statice are common over the whole +pass. Caragana in the grassy swardy ravines. On the highest point +Astragalus arbuscula, the fields studded with yellow buttons of tansy, +and white flowers of Stellaria; Arabidea glauca siliculosa, also common; +this is rare on the west side of Hindoo-koosh, as is also Stellaria. +Tansy continues in some places. + +_31st_.--To Kurzar. Proceeded up the Siah-Sung; along the river, green +sward with patches of Caragana, Campanula, and Geraniums occurred in +profusion in some places. Salvia not uncommon; at the first part, or +perhaps for three miles from camp a large Hingoid is common, smaller and +whiter than the species so common on the lower hills, and which is the +large-leaved species of Quettah and the Kojhuk pass. Potamogeton +cylindrifolia common; Senecionoides. + +On the stony part, or beyond Siah-Sung, when one leaves the bed of the +river, Astragali two or three species, Salvia, and Blitum. Two sorts of +fish are found in the river, and perhaps a third in the black +hammer-headed Silurus. {481} Of the two caught, one is an Oreinus, but +passing close into Barbus. Beneath the glandular line, white, above +fuscous-brownish, with irregular black spots, fins fusco-reddish. + +The other is a loach, Cobitis propria, shape shark-like, colour yellowish- +brown, almost tawny, sides irregularly spotted with brownish-black spots, +arranged on the back in broad irregular, generally complete bands. Head +not banded, fins tawny, with oblong black spots, eyes prominent, irides +reddish-orange: this is a very abundant species. + +Poplar trees, (P. lombardensis): these from being planted close, grow +together, the union generally taking place near the base. I have not +seen a section of the wood. + +_August 2nd_.--Kaloo. So far as I can judge, the flora of this side of +the pass does not differ, but in a few unimportant instances from that of +the Kurzar side. The summit however has a much colder climate, probably +from being exposed on the Kurzar side to an extremely cold and piercing +wind from the Kohi-Baba range. Cnici 2, and Festuca triticoides are the +most common plants, with Arenaria fruticosa, Composita No. 152, +Asphodelus of Erak now nearly passed flower, and some Astragali. But on +this side, Cnici cease almost entirely, although they re-appear lower +down, but only partially, and the top of the pass is covered with the +Statice of Kurzar, and Astragali, among which, that with the flat pod, +winged on the dorsal suture, is the most common. Lower down the same, or +similar features continue, and the only plants limited to this side are a +curious Astragalus, Crotalarioid, Polygonum fruticosa, microphyllum, and +spinosum, a Boraginea like that of Jugdulluck, but much smaller and +decumbent, a Papaveraceae, petalis Papaveris Rhoeadis, with a siliquose +fruit, and Clematis erecta: willow trees (the broad leaved species) occur +here, a large Agrostic grass, Ribes and Symphorema of Erak. + +The Affghans appear to cut every plant almost of any size for winter +fodder, even thistles, docks, etc. The purple Lactucoid of Cabul +re-appears, and the curious flat fruit calyxed Boraginea of Shawl both in +abundance. The crops here are not more forward than those at Kurzar; the +fields are _crowded_ with Stellaria, but there is much less Tanacetum; +Geraniums occur in profusion. + +Silene fimbriata, is a night flower, withering by 9 A.M. + +I found no snow up the left Hajeeguk ravine, and the effect was marked, +namely, that none of the alpine plants are so abundant about it as last +season, when they were in flower, or had passed. + +There is on the hills about this ravine, a large burrowing animal, +probably a marmot; it is of a dark colour with tawny rump; when on the +alert it sits on its rump, or rather perhaps raised on the hind legs, and +has the voice of an ordinary Rodentia. + +I heard several of these, but saw only one. + +Rich botanising is to be had on the swampy ground at the mouth of the +right ravine. Pediculares 2, Silenaceae 3 or 4, Veroniceae 2, Orchis 1, +Ranunculi 2, Junci 2, Carices several, Swertiae 2, one the larger +Solidago, Geranium, Gramineae several, Parnassia of Erak, Campanula, Ruta +odora, etc. + +_3rd_.--To Topehee. The vegetation of Kaloo is far less varied than that +of Hajeeguk, for it presents no such swampy ravines at such elevations. + +The plants of the hills around Kaloo villages continue half-way up, on +the road over the ravine Corvisartia is plentiful, with a Labiata, Calyce +Royleae, in profusion; this and Cnici form the chief vegetation; +Papaveraceae also continue. + +Up the 1st ascent Hingoid tenuifolia, Ephedra stricta, Ribes commence, +Ephedra continuing throughout wherever the bare rocks project through the +loose soil; one-third way up, Statice long and short-peduncled commence +with an Astragalus. The bulk of the vegetation is an Artemisia; Royleoid +and Chenopodium villosum continue, and do so for half-way up. + +At the black rock half-way up, Dianthus, Astragalus, Crotalarioid, Rosae +sp., Statice pulvinata, are common, this last and Artemisia are the chief +features: Scutellaria, Stellaria dichotoma, Umbellifera of Yonutt, +Corvisartia, wild Gramineae of Yonutt, Arenaria fruticosa, Festuca +triticoides continues. Borago of upper Kaloo, and the Glauci of Kaloo +occur. Astragali 2 or 3 sp., Silene sp., but the chief vegetation is +Artemisia. + +On the summit, Corvisartia, Boragineae, Gramineae, several; a straggling +Plectranthus coeruleus, Arenaria fruticosa, Allium rubrum, Cnici 2, the +yellow Erigeronoid of Hajeeguk summit, occur on the descent just below +the ridge, and on this side the Statice pulvinata is in profusion, and of +large size. Large marmot, with teeth like those of a rat. + +_4th_.--Proceeded to Bamean. At Topehee was found a curious succulent +Hypericum, it is odd that the leaves, etc. of these succulent saline +plants are cold; strikingly so. Connected with this low temperature, is +the fact, that if shut up in a box with other plants, and water thrown +in, that even though they be at the top, they cause the deposit of all +the water that passes up in the shape of vapour, while the ordinary +plants remain quite dry! A wonderful provision of nature adapting them +the more to extremely dry stations. About Topehee, Cichorium is common; +Salvia of Oonnye, Geranium, Artemisia exaltata of Sir-i-Chushme, and +Pulmonaria, so common everywhere, occur; Glaucum swarms in saline marshy +places. Triglochin is also found, also Ranunculus stoloniferae trilobata +of Kaloo, Hippuris. The flat-calyxed Boraginea, Melilotus officinalis +also found; Potamogeton cylindrifolia, Centaurea lutea. + +There also occurs along the barren slopes of the hills a glaucous shrub, +much like that between Chunni and Dund-i-Goolai, decumbens, subspinos: +glauco alb. fruct. baccato drupaceis, oblongis, purpuris, basi calyce +parvo, 5-fido, stylo brevi apiculatis, putamina osseo-crasso oblongo +ovato, Sem. immatur. + +_8th_.--Bamean. The fish, so far as I have caught any, seem to be one +trout, and two barbels. Of 5 species, one of these takes the worm +greedily, the length of the intestines varied in every instance, and of +three the relative lengths of body and canal were as follows: + +Inches. Canal. + +Body 6 (times ) 2.125 ( Of three since captured and +Body 7 (longer ) 2.5 ( about 8 inches long, all +Body 10.5 (than the) 3.5 ( nearly the same size, the + (body. ) ( length of the canal was + ( three times longer than the + ( body. + +The intestines as usual taper almost gradually from the stomach and +oesophagus, and are gorged with greenish pulp. + +This is worth following up. It is scarcely credible, but that the +species are really different; or if not, the variety in the length will +considerably diminish the value of the length of canal as a principle of +arrangement. {484} + +The glaucous long-peduncled, large-flowered Statice is limited to the +east side of Kaloo. On this side another species occupies similar +elevations, viz., 9,500 to 10,500 feet; it is a good deal like the one +met with towards Ghuzni. These species are less alpine than the short- +peduncled species with large flowers, which continues all over Kaloo, +being in great perfection on the west side, near the summit. Another +short-peduncled species appears on the descent, close to upper Topehee. +Towards this Royleoid occurs but sparingly, and the first change takes +place in the abundance of Salicornia or Kochia. Also about this, Peganum +and Salvia reoccur, both kinds not being uncommon about Bamean. + +Lactuca dislocata occurs throughout. + +The vegetation of Bamean is that of Topehee, but the small flowered +Tamarisk is scarce--Potentilla anserina is common, Hyoscyamus spinosus of +Kaloo occurs. + +The Bamean river divides the Kohi-Baba from the Hindoo-koosh, but both +are obviously of the same system, i.e. they divide the ranges to the +north. To the east their offsets are divided by the Kaloo river. The +direction of the Hindoo-koosh and that of the Kohi-Baba, is about 115 +west. The space to the west consists of a low, rather flat plateau, (as +it appears from the top of Kaloo,) this flat belongs to the Kohi-Baba +range; the offsets of the Hindoo-koosh to the east and north are +ordinarily shaped. All the hills on the north side of the valley +disintegrate on their south faces, forming cliffs of partial extent. + +_13th_.--Proceeded to Akrobat, ascending the Bamean river, and then +diverging up a _kotul_ or acclivity of considerable height, but gradual +ascent. Then descending at once steeply to Akrobat, which is about 9,500 +feet above the sea. Along the river, Rosa, Hippophae, and Salix occur, +the two former being abundant. Scarcely any change in vegetation occurs: +an Ephedra, very common up the _kotul_ and abundantly in fruit. The +hills are very barren, and nothing remarkable is observable about Syghan. +Apricot constitutes the only fruit tree. Salix, Populus, and Sinjit +occur. + +All the valleys are narrow, and the hills very barren, the chief +vegetation being Salsolaceae. The vegetation of the valleys is the same +as that of Bamean; on the north of Akrobat two Statice occur, one with +spathulate leaves scapigerous, the other a tall straggling plant. + +_22nd_.--Erak. The vegetation of Kurzar consists of Hypericum, +Salsolaceae, Carduacea, and Hyoscyamus spinosus, but Salsolaceae occur in +profusion and several species. + +Hypericum enjoys to perfection, the faculty of condensing water on its +leaves, much more so than Salsolaceae; it presents an obvious affinity to +Rutaceae, capsula radiata 5-valvis, loculicida: valvis linea centrali +notatis, septis solutis imo apice exceptis. Seminibus basi locul. +affixis, apice villosis; the tobacco is different from the Nicot. +tobaccum, cor. virida tubo calyce, duplo longiore lamina brevi plicato: +apricots in sheltered places. + +_24th_.--Kurzar. The Erak _kotul_ is thickly covered with Festuca +triticoides, two Carduaceae, Salvia, Artemisiae, and Statices on the +south side. On the north Statices, Onosma, and Carduaceae are most +common, and the vegetation is scantier. Ribes is common up the Erak +ravine; with it, Rosa and Symphorema are the chief shrubs. Ephedra +ceases about 10,000 feet. A snake found of general grey colour, with +black-brown marking. + +_26th_.--Ascended Kohi-Baba from upper Kaloo, the ascent occupied about +five hours, the ridge was surmounted but no view of Baissoat was +obtained, except that the crest surmounted, as well as the still loftier +culminating one belong to ridges running 30 degrees north from a main +ridge, the passes of which, although apparently the same height as the +peak surmounted, are much more heavily covered with snow. These passes +do not appear very difficult. + +At 2 P.M. set up the barometer on the ridge, the mercury stood 17.354. +Therm. in cistern, 79.5. Detached Therm. in sun 85 degrees--on the +ground 105 degrees. + +_September 2nd_.--At 2.5 P.M. the barometer stood 17.356. + +Assuming this to give about 15,000 feet, none of the peaks will be found +to be higher than 16,500. The culminating point was close by, and did +not appear more than 1,000 feet above me. The different ridges are +separated by deep spaces in which snow lies to a considerable extent. + +Having descended a considerable way I again set up the barometer. Time 4- +45 P.M. + +The mercury stood at 18.889. + + Therm. in the Cistern. 63 degrees + Ditto in the air. 68 degrees + +The vegetation continues unaltered, the same as that of Kaloo kotul. + +Carduaceae, Astragali, Nardoid, Bromoid, Hordeoid pubescens, and +Statices. And up to this, which may be assumed as 13,500 feet, the hills +present the same features, rounded with a good deal of soil, and large +granitic masses. + +But above this the disintegration of the ridge has reached a great +extent; for 1,500 to 2,000 feet the ascent is steep, passing over a +profusion of blocks and slabs of granite, generally externally of a dark +brown colour; here and there there is some coarse granular soil, and +towards the second station, say at an altitude of 14,000 feet, a marshy +spot occurred, crowded with Primula, together with Arenaria, Fumaria of +Erak, Ranunculus of Hajeeguk, Carex, etc. From within 1,000 feet of the +summit the ascent was easier, over ground composed entirely of small +angular bits of granite, which rock protrudes to the north, forming the +south wall of a huge amphitheatre, heavily snowed in places. + +This granite varies much; being below a coarse quartzose grey rock, above +a very compact brown rock, except perhaps in its lowest outcrop, where it +has a slaty structure. + +The second station may be assumed as the lowest limit of the inferior +snow line, but this so much depends on casual circumstances that even +many places at 15,000 feet are uncovered by snow, which as might be +expected is always heaviest in the higher valleys which are least exposed +to the sun's rays. The surface of the snow in many places was +picturesque, being in the shape of crowded pinnacled ridges, the +interstices from 4 to 5 feet deep, holding water or ice. I saw from the +summit a flock of the large grouse, and at 14,000 feet, a large hare. + +The peak surmounted is the lowest, and the nearest to Upper Kaloo. The +granite on the west side formed a precipitous cliff of 200 to 300 feet +deep. + +The vegetation of the slope with small fragments, say between 14 to +15,000 feet was very scanty, a Cheiranthus, Polygonum scariosum, +Papaveraceae, Phloxoides and Statice, being the only plants; and perhaps +this may be assumed as having no particular plant, all those enumerated +being found below. + +The vegetation of the steep rugged portion, which contained many patches +of snow and better soil, was more varied; in the upper parts of this a +Carex, two or three Graminae, Cheiranthus, Plectranthus, Sedoides, +Arenaria, Potentilla, Primula, Draboides and Brassicacea occurred. A +Tanacetoid was perhaps the most common. + +The most alpine forms of these were Carex, Holcoides, Sedoides, Statice +densissima, and Papaveracea; but of these Papaveracea, Phloxoid, Statice +densissima, Cheiranthus, and Polygonum are alone found above. Here again +the effect of the proximity of a bed of snow in retarding vegetation was +most evident. Phloxoides elsewhere partly in flower, being found in full +flower near one of the beds of snow. + +It is curious that no green spots are found above, all the water passing +down under the soil, the swardy ravines scarcely extend beyond an +elevation of 1,500 feet above the camp on Upper Kaloo. + +The limit of the grey shrubby Salix may be taken as 1,000 feet above +that, the other plants are precisely the same as those of other swards; +Abelia extends higher than Salix. + +The limit of crops is about the same, the issue of the water obviously +being in relation to the extent of cultivation by irrigation. The +associated plants present no change. + +_23rd_.--Cabul. Curious transformation in Carthamus was observed, either +affecting the involucrum alone, when those branches that would have +become flowers become clavate, covered with very dense aristate leaves, +or affecting the florets which become more or less converted in the +branches. In these the involucre is little altered, and the receptacle +is attacked by larva. In certain of these the florets are submitted to +very curious metamorphoses, each envelope remaining, but quite green, the +stamina being little changed, the pistillum changed into a leaf-bearing +branch, the stigmata, etc. into two leaves. + +This is chiefly remarkable because of the general tardiness of change in +the stamina, since it shows that the binary formation of the pistillum is +a primary effect: it may be asked, if the number should be 5, why has it +not reverted to its original or typical state? The calyx is not +reducible to 5. The permanency of the character of aggregate flowers is +here shown, as well as in Echinops, so that it is scarcely probable we +shall ever meet a compositious flower solitary in the axil of an ordinary +leaf. + +To be examined hereafter in detail. + +If wood is a descending formation, produced by leaves, how are woody +tendrils to be accounted for. In the vine the ancient tendrils are +perfectly woody, although this may not be true wood, yet it is truly +fibrous, and I ask, from what is it formed? + +The growth of young shoots is at once a proof that the whole system may +be formed from ascending growth, for in many we find woody fibre +complete, though not indurated, and all the leaves from which wood is +said to be formed are only in a rudimentary state. + +_October 2nd_.--Seh-Baba. Spiraea belloides, commonish on limestone +rocks in the ravine near the road which leads from Tazeen valley to +Khubur-i-Jubbur. This limestone is in thin strata; the strata are +subdivided by quartzose veins, they occur generally at a dip of from 15 +to 20 degrees, but are occasionally quite vertical or highly wavy, +presenting evidence of concentrated force upwards. The outcrop wears an +uniform aspect, and occurs to the north of the ravine. The south here +and there presents sheets of rock, the overlying strata having slipped +off. The strike of the strata is north and south. + +Coal is said by Hatchet to be formed chiefly from the resinous principles +of plants,--this would account for its appearance when burnt, which is +the same as that of burnt bitumen. But resinous principles are, even +when they exist, of partial extent only in plants. In good coal the +whole of the vegetable substance seems to be transformed, a supposition +barely compatible with Hatchet's idea. + +To study this, extensive examination of coal in all degrees of formation +would be necessary, beginning with the wood so curiously changed by the +Brahmapootra, i.e. brown coal occurring in its sand banks, and which has +a very peculiar and disagreeable odour when burning. It would also be +necessary to examine how far the coal-plants exhibit vegetable structure, +are they mere impressions or are they the plants themselves changed? To +what extent do these agree with coal? What particular plants and what +parts of these appear to have formed coal? Its fibrous structure would +hint at formation from the woody system, and it is not incompatible with +the _deliquescence_ of a thick layer of drift. + +The plants of coal fields having been drifted, can only give us an idea +of the vegetation along the natural drains of the then country, such may +by no means have had _one universal character_. + +The plants of the open surface of modern tropical countries being +generally different from those along the beds of streams, in which +situations now-a-days Equiseteae, Lycopods and Filicis are chiefly found. +Coal being drift, it follows that the plants of the coal fields can give +us no information on the distribution of vegetables in those days; to +gain information on this, the fossils should be in their original +situation. And there again an obstacle may exist in our not being able +to ascertain the height or level of that situation. + +If the plants of coal fields are found to be converted into coal, then +the only difference between coal shale, and coal will consist in the very +small proportion of vegetable matter in the former. + +The small number of coal plants, i.e. the small number of species, at +once points to the supposition that fossil plants are confined to those +of the most indestructible nature: here again is another sign of this in +the preponderance of Ferns, which Lindley finds to be the most permanent. + +Hence the preponderance of Ferns, is by no means explainable by their +greatest simplicity of form, and consequent priority of formation. + + + +CHAPTER XXII. + + +_From Peshawur to Lahore_. + +_October 14th_.--Peshawur.--Cucurbitaceae. The petals of cucurbita +were observed in one instance united along two of the corollal sinuses to +the staminal column, alternating with the smaller stamina; the processes +were produced upwards into petaloid appendages. + +_17th_.--Proceeded to Nowshera. As far as Pubbe the road extended +chiefly through a cultivated country, thence as far as could be judged at +night, over a plain country covered with coarse grass, and here and there +(whenever a sufficiently gravelly surface occurred) among the thick of +_Bheir_, which is here used for fences; Mudar, AErua, Nerioides and +Adhatoda occurred; _Furas_ a common tree. + +_18th_.--Reached Khairabad. The same kind of country as about Nowshera, +stony or sandy, with extensive tracts covered with _Bheir_, Mudar, and +AErua as before, Mimosa common towards Geedur Gulli, and on it also +Kureel, which appears for the first time as it was not seen about +Jumrood. On to-day's march many grasses are apparent, the pale +Saccharoid grass of Jugdulluck common, a species of Cynodon (given to me +by Dr. Ritchie at Dhukk) very common, a Pommereullioid, a curious +Schoenanthus, a Poa, all are coarse and cover a large tract towards +Geedur Gulli: Barleria spinosa appears. + +Geedur Gulli is a ravine winding in and out in a curious manner among low +hills at the north-west end of what is called the Afredi Spur. Mimosa +very common, Kureel, Dodonaea and Edgeworthia, neither very common, but +Moarcurra and Euonymus are both rather common. _Mudar_ common; some +Andropogons, of which one is the same as that of the Khyber. _Bheir_ +very common, also a Mimosa like the common _Babool_, but flowers +unscented. Chokeys, or police stations are situated along the whole line +of road to Peshawur. Adhatoda common at the entrance to Geedur Gulli +where the scenery is rather pretty; Adiantum common on banks near the +water; the hills of Geedur Gulli are rather thickly sprinkled with wood. + +The Cabul river is here a large stream, with a moderate confined bed +between high banks on which Akora and Khairabad are situated. The view +of the Indus from Geedur Gulli presents a desolate look of sand, which +extends over a large space visible through a break in the hills to the +north. The passage of the Indus through the Attock range seen from the +same point is curious; but general remarks on scenery can be of no use, +except when they are founded on an intimate acquaintance with the +country. The most natural course, i.e. one less impeded by mountains, +would seem to be to the east instead of south. + +[Diagram of Attock Range: m491.jpg] + +Mulberry, Salix angustifolia, or willow, and _Buckein_, were seen at +Attock. The scenery is not however bold, but on the contrary very poor +compared with the defiles of the Irrawadi. The hills are low, rounded, +and present no precipices of striking dimensions. An old fort situated +near the junction of the rivers is a handsome looking building, but +completely commanded. A large Serai or place for travellers is situated +near it to the north. The water of the Indus is muddy, but presents +nothing remarkable in temperature. The analogous points between the +Indus and Irrawadi consist in defiles and the want of branches for a long +way above their mouths. Jackdaws were the first old acquaintances I met +with on entering Peshawur; and the common kite, the Affghan one not +having the same thrilling cry that the Indian one has; grey partridges +are found about Nowshera; as also Kuchaloo or Yams. + +_19th_.--Proceeded over the plain to Chuch and Khot-bha, winding along +the Attock hill round to the fort, and passing the Serai, and another +smaller one in ruins near the plains, thence over level ground to within +two miles of Bhowli, where conspicuous trees were observed, otherwise the +plain is rather barren, a few _Bheirs_ and some Phoenix only occurring +about villages on hills. The vegetation is the same. Chuch plain, where +not cultivated, is covered with short coarse grasses, Andropogoneae. +Among these a large-leaved Salvia occurs. The forms presented by the +vegetation are however very little diversified. Mudar, a small-fruited +Kochia, like that of Jallalabad; Boerhaavia very common. + +Cultivation is conducted in _Bheir_ fences, and consists of Indian-corn, +_Bajra_, and cotton. + +From the Attock hills, the Indus is seen much divided by beds of sand, +and churs or islands covered with a large purple Saccharum. Peganum +continues to Attock and even extends beyond. + +Water plants of Chuch, Trapa, Valisneria verticillata, and Nymphaea. + +Shumshbad.--This town lies to the left of the road, one mile in the rear +of my encampment. + +The spines of Barleria are evidently axillary, as is seen in young +branches, probably they represent the lower pair of leaves of the lateral +branches, the terminal parts of which have a tendency to develop. + +The spines of Mimosa belong evidently to the same exertion as the leaf; +they are connate at the base, and from the centre of this hardened part, +arises the leaf; they may be either the lower pinnae, or they may be +_spurious_ stipulae. The leaves developed within the true ones belong to +an ill-developed branch. True stipulae are leaves with a distinct +origin. Spurious stipulae belong to their leaves, as is evident from +their not having a distinct origin. + +_20th_.--Hussun Abdul. Until we came near the Boorhan valley, the road +passed over a high, dry, sandy plain, with no cultivation, and no water, +then the descent took place through picturesque raviny ground with a few +isolated mounds, to a fine clear stream. The remaining part extended +either along the cultivation of the Boorhan valley, or through similar +raviny ground. Two streams were passed, the last is the Hussun Abdul +river. + +The vegetation of the high plain continues the same. _Bheir_, Mimosa, +_Kureel_, AErua, Mudar, Andropogoneae, Pommereullia, OEgilops, Salvia, +and Crotalaria aphylla. + +Among the ravines and thence to Hussun Abdul, a new feature presents +itself in the frequency of a largish Mimosa, probably that of the Khyber +pass. This forms prettily wooded scenery, the white thorned Mimosa also +occurs, Moacurra none, Euonymus, _Bheir_. + +About Boorhan a Ficus becomes very common, Achyranthes, Kochia fructibus +parvis, Salvia, Serratuloid of Ali-Baghan and Ichardeh. Paganum +common--Adhatoda and Vitex. In scenery the country is pretty, +particularly after passing the last river: a dampish spot was passed at +Bhowli: a large Acacia, Melanoxylon and Pteris were found on the river +banks. Dodonaea seen on low hills near Bhowli, as also Adiantum. Started +at 5 hours 40 minutes and reached at 11.30; distance at least eighteen +miles. + +Hussun Abdul, is a pretty place, particularly the broken ground about the +sacred stream, and the tank, in which Mahaseers abound; the water +beautiful, many trees occur, especially Morus, Salix and Ficus. + +Zyziphus is a fine tree here, Phoenix, Khuggur, Bukkein, Ficus, and +Cupressus occur. + +The jackdaw, _mina_, blue and chesnut kingfisher, a noisy bird. The +small kingfisher, black and white kingfisher common: Myophonus, +Pomatorrhinus. + +_21st_.--The chief cultivation here is _bajra_, and Zea maize. The +former produces a second crop from branches; hence it is left standing +after the top spike, which is the largest, is picked; vegetation chiefly +Indian, very few Affghan forms remaining, those of the hills are Mimosa, +Adhatoda, and Euonymus. + +The water plants are all decidedly tropical; no Epilobium seen since +leaving Peshawar: Eclipta, Cyperaceae. + +Trichodesma, Cannabis. + +Fish have few engaging habits, the tame Mahaseers take no notice of any +one until food is thrown to them. + +Tagetes, _Sud Buruk_, is a curious genus, on account of its simple +tubular involucrum, very entire and pappus florets, conduplicate in +aestivation, all florets faeminine are ligulate; are the folded up ones +representations of the males? + +_22nd_.--To Janika Sung, seventeen miles: the country continues much the +same. The road passes out of _Hussun Abdul_ over a low stony +elevation, and enters another valley, the exit from which is through the +Maha Gullah: a large Serai is passed about two and a half miles from the +Boorgi; in the Gullah near this, is a portion of a formed road. Janika +Sung is a small village, about five miles from the Boorgi. + +The face of the country is undulated, intersected by ravines, rather +thickly covered with the large Mimosa and _Bheir_: the same may be seen +in every direction. + +Affghan plants have nearly ended, Moacurra and Euonymus alone continuing. +At the Maha Gullah a Carissa, and a _Zaitoon_, Ehretioides. This defile +is picturesque, the wood prettily contrasted with bits of grassy ground. +Adhatoda in abundance. + +The Maha Gullah was formerly a notorious place for robbers, but is now +quite safe, which says much for the Seikh rule. + +There was not much cultivation passed to-day, although most of the +surface is fit for it: water is near the surface. The Maha Gullah range +is composed of limestone. + +The white-spined Mimosa and crooked-spined one change places, the former +occupies uncultivated plains, the latter stony, undulated, or hilly +ground. + +Carissa certainly represents Jasminum. + +On the Kaliki Serai plain the chief plant is Mimosa albispina, then +_Bheir_--here and there patches of Leguminosa, like the Cytisoides, so +common in Affghanistan. In the _Bheir_ thickets Schoenanthus is common; +Andropogon and Pommereullioid also occur. + +In the Hussun Abdul river there is a species of Perilampus approaching to +Leuciscus, but with faint bars. In the sacred stream there is a small +Cyprinoid, probably a Systomus, with a conspicuous spot on either side +near the tail: there is also a small loach. + +The Mahaseer in the water is a handsome fish, the edges of the scales +being then blackish, as is also the longitudinal line. + +It is curious that all plants hitherto found parasitical on roots, have +no green leaves; to this, marked exceptions exists in Cuscuta and +Cassytha, such true-leaved parasites being found only on the ascending +axis; this rule is so permanent, that species of certain genera, such as +Burmannia, the bulk of which are not parasitical, have no leaves. The +mode of attachment of all parasitical plants is I think the same, +otherwise I should suspect the above difference to point to a marked one +in the nature of the fluid derived from the stock: thus leafless plants +might be supposed to induce no particular change in the fluid they +imbibe, while the others might be supposed to elaborate their own from +that of the stock. + +There is another very remarkable circumstance connected with the most +typical leafless parasites, in their very frequent limitation to the +genus Cissus, on which perhaps all Rafflesiaceae and Cynomorieae are +exclusively found. + +My chief reason for supposing Sarcocodon to be Monocotyledonous, or +rather Endogenous, is the ternary division of its parts, and if my +supposition be correct, it tends to establish, if indeed other ample +evidence did not exist, the great permanence and consequent value of this +numerical character. + +And with respect to Sarcocoidalis I shall adopt the same opinion, if I +find on enquiry that a binary number, and imperfection of the female as +compared with the male, are more characteristic of Endogenous than of +Exogenous growth. This same genus I consider in both these characters to +allude to some analogy with one or more Acrogenous divisions. + +The establishment of the order of Rhizanths, as well as that of +Gymnosperms, I consider as a retrograde step in Botanical science. It is +totally opposed to all sound principles of classification, and is a proof +that, in the nineteenth century, arbitrary characters are still sought +for, and when found are obstinately maintained. + +Even in the arbitrary character, which is considered as destructive of +all their other claims to ordinary vegetable rank, there is no unison +whatever, for Rafflesiaceae have ordinary ovula, while Sarcocoidalis very +extraordinary. + +The amount of testimony proving their analogy in germination to be with +Acrogens, must be very strong before I am convinced that plants with +perfect ovula as Rafflesia, etc. germinate from an indeterminate point, +the existence of an aperture in the coats, points in the most marked +manner to some part representing a radicle. With the exception perhaps +of Sarcocoidalis, these plants differ in no respect whatever from other +Phaenogamous vegetables; we have instances of the same parasitical +growth, and instances of the same apparent want of a radicle or +homogeneousness of embryo, and in the structure of the parts of the +flower there is tolerably absolute general identity. + +It may be worthy of remark, as tending to prove the soundness of Mr. +Brown's views with regard to the affinity of Rafflesia with Aristolochia, +that a certain large and fleshy flowered species of the latter genus has +the same putrescent smelling flowers. + +In Rhizantheae, as proposed by Endlicher, we have an assemblage of +discordant characters; we have plants associated, differing in the number +of their parts; we have some of comparatively simple roots associated +with others of decidedly complex organization; we have Rafflesia in which +highly complex female parts exist, associated with Sarcocoidalis, in +which these are very simple. But besides the objection of combining +discrepancies on the strength of one agreement, the establishment of +divisions upon such pretexts is objectionable in another point of view; +viz., that of making a transition of structure on one point, instead of +in several. + +We might as well form into one division all the ternarily formed +Dicotyledons, and into another all those Monocotyledonous plants with +evident distinction between the calyx and corolla. + +But in addition to reasons founded on structure, I have this theoretical +one, that it is as requisite that Endogens should establish a similar +relation with Acrogens; otherwise a gradation exists between the first +and third classes, and none between the second and third, between which, +gradations ought to be the more frequent. + +As Rafflesia approaches Aristolochia, so does Sarcocodon, Taccaceae. + +_23rd_.--Rawil Pendi. The country continues much the same to within five +or six miles of this place, viz. high raviny ground, well covered with +Mimosa, _Bheir_, etc. + +Thence to Pendi, the country is open, bare, and much cultivated. From +high ground near Pendi a considerable tract is visible, consisting of low +ridges running nearly due south, interrupted here and there, and +apparently quite bare. + +_24th_.--To Manikyala, distance nineteen miles, over an elevated country, +with not much cultivation; broken ground occurs here and there, +especially near the river Hoomook, now a small stream, the road winding +through Mimosa jungle. _Moacurra_, _Bheir_, Euonymus. + +At a place about three miles from Manikyala, are the remains of a Serai +now in ruins. From this to Metope, the road extends over an open country +capable of cultivation, but neglected. Water in wells is thirty feet +perhaps below the surface: the country about Tope very bare of trees. + +A curious low chain of sandstone rocks here occurs, and occasionally +protrudes in places from below the soil, seldom rising above five feet +and occasionally dilated into undulated tracts. + +Drill husbandry, (i.e. seeds sown after the plough,) seems much in +practice here. The late noise about improving pasture grasses has been +made with little reference to the nature of an Indian climate, or the +genius of the Indian people. Pasture grasses only excel in countries +where there is no division of climate into hot, rainy, and cold seasons; +but not in those in which rain is equally, or nearly so distributed +throughout the year. So far as I know, no place in India is calculated +for pasture grass cultivation, because as none of excellent kinds can +succeed without irrigation, this element of Indian agriculture is applied +to more profitable cultures, such as artificial grasses. In the cold +season and the rains, nature supplies _dhoob_ grass bountifully, leaving +the natives to apply their agricultural labour to other objects, and in +such seasons the condition of cattle is decidedly good. + +Manikyala Tope, seen from near Rawil Pendi, is an insignificant building, +and presents the same architecture as other topes, and as the Cabul +tower, although it is not of the same materials. The lower part of the +base is of pure sandstone, the upper of a stalactital conglomerate of +small pebbles, often perforated. The terraces at the base are now almost +hid by rubbish, so that the whole looks like an overgrown dome or a low +mound. There are three stone ledges below, with flat pilasters between +the middle and lower ledge on the sides. The dome is much damaged. The +stones of which the building was erected, were not hewn inside, but I do +not know whether they have not been cemented together. Access is easy to +the top partly by means of broken steps, otherwise the stones gave good +footing. The top of the ruin is now open and discloses a square +_funnel_, penetrating half the height of building; thence modern +handiwork has caused a broken irregular perforation. The building is not +remarkable for great size, nor are any of the stones large, still as a +piece of architecture it is far superior to any thing in modern +Affghanistan. The country around is very bare and sufficiently open. It +is curious that there are many Indian plants found on or about the +building, all indicating a decided approach to Hindoostan. A Sida, +Euonymus, Bheir, Lantana, and a Menispermum, are common shrubs on the +building, also Solanum quercifolium, spinis albis floribus coeruleo +purpureis. + +_25th_.--To Puttiana, seventeen to eighteen miles; the country much the +same, little wood but bushes of the old trees: it is tolerably open until +Pukkee Serai is approached, when it becomes very much broken and +intersected by ravines in every direction, showing most forcibly the +action of water, many of the cliffs thus formed are picturesque. At +Pukkee a small river is forded, thence to near Puttiana the country then +becomes almost as raviny as before. + +AErua, Bheir, Mudar, a Kochia, much like one of the Cutch ones, and the +before-mentioned plants continue. + +_26th_.--To Bukriala, twenty-two miles. From Puttiana the road is good, +extended over a high open country, except where it crosses two ravines; +the first of these containing a stream of water, about ten miles from +Puttiana. From Tammuch the road descends steeply into the Bukriala +Kakhudd ravine, which takes you to Bukriala. + +This ravine runs through a system of sandstone hills, of a blueish muddy +aspect, and red clayey earth, often conglomerate. In colours not unlike +the Bamean district. Water is plentiful in pools throughout the lower +half of the road, which is all descent. Bukriala stands on the right +bank of the Khudd river towards its mouth, the vegetation about this +place resembles that of the open country, and is unchanged in the Khudd +river, consisting of Kochia, _Phulahi_, and Mimosa albispina, Euonymus, +_Bheir_, Adhatoda, Barleria, _Kureel_, and Capparis of Gundamuck; also +Pommereullioid, Andropogon, Schoenanthus, Holcus, and Stipa of Kuta Sung, +Carallunia, Grewia and Menispermum of Manikyala. + +Also two plants not before seen, and neither common, one is a Butea, +leguminous velutino pubescent arbor, it is the _Chuchra_ of the natives, +and is used for paper. The other is a curious, leafless, scandent, +monocotyledon. Asparaginea, and an Apocynea. + +Alhaji Maurorum is not found between this and Hussun Abdul, which is a +curious thing. + +_27th_.--To Rotas. The country to Mittian is very much broken and +consequently difficult, consisting entirely of ups and downs: the road is +only practicable for cattle; the bad part of it commences with an abrupt +ascent. About Puttiana, four miles from Bukriala, it becomes better, but +it continues partially raviny until within four miles of Rotas, when the +country becomes open, and the road good. + +Vegetation continues precisely the same, being still in the region of +_Phulahi_: observed the Asparaginea again, Euonymus continues, also +Astragalus, a Kochia, and an Affghan Chenopodium. + +A beautiful _bhowli_ or spring is passed on the way two miles from Rotas, +it is covered with masonry, and the descent is by means of steps; the +water passes under large arches, a work worthy of the Mogul emperors. +Sissoo, Peroplocea of Bolan, common. Rotas is an immense irregular +fortress, with the usual faults: it is much too large, and situated on a +rocky plain partially commanded. It must have once contained a large +number of inhabitants. Nelumbium, Potamogeton: half a mile from Rotas +towards Peshawur, a square Serai, enclosing a garden, is passed. + +The country immediately about it on the west is open: and well +cultivated: there is but little water in the river. The town or village +is of no size. + +Butea not uncommon. + +_28th_.--Proceeded to Jhilun. The road is at first steep, as it passes +down along the Rotas river, about three miles from thence it is good, +extending over a plain to the Jhilun. Fine cultivation observed on all +sides, and of various sorts, chiefly _Bajra_ and _Kureel_. Dhah +abundant, but not arborescent, Euonymus, Peganum, _Bheir_, and _Phulahi_, +the latter very dwarfish. Mimosa albispina and Adhatoda very common. The +commonest tree in these countries is _Bheir_, and a very handsome tree it +is; _Nihi-joari_ cultivated. + +_Sun_ and _Tel_ occur, the last is very common. Yesterday a new +cultivation presented of a Composite plant, called _Kalizeen_, used as +spice or _musala_ for horses. The birds observed were Haematornis, +Crateropod, Sylvia, Alauda cristata, Alauda alia in flocks. + +The town of Jhilun stands immediately on the right bank of the river of +that name, it is a large and flourishing place. The river is about 200 +yards broad, not rapid, but here and there deep, and the bed at this +place forms one undivided channel. The right bank on which the town +stands has a stony sloping shore, the left is sandy. + +It is a mistake to suppose that the hilly country ceases here, on the +contrary, it crosses the Jhilun. At the ferry this river runs through a +large valley, bounded to the west by hills like those to which we have +been accustomed; to the east it is bounded by a low chain, which runs +parallel with the general course of the river. The valley is open only +to the north and south. + +Otters, tortoises, and Mahaseer were seen in the river. + +_29th_.--To Sera, twenty-four miles, half the distance extended over the +uncultivated base of the hills, and then over the low range itself, from +which at two points, fine views are obtained of the vast plain of the +Punjab. Throughout this vast surface the vegetation is exactly the +same--Euonymus continuing, Peganum and _Phulahi_ forming chief +vegetation; numbers of white partridge occur. + +In the plains _Dhah_ is found in profusion, especially where the +cultivation is not extensive. A new Acacia appears, the _Kikkur_, +forming groves about most of the villages. Noticed the Physaloides of +Lundykhanah. Encamped under a fine Mimosa and _Bheir_ near an old Serai +which forms part of the village, with a splendid view of the Himalayas +stretching away from east to west. It appears from this direction as if +there was only one low range between the plains and the culminating range +of the Himalayas. Nothing like these mountains has been seen in +Khorassan. The chief cultivation about here is _Nihi-joari_, then +_Bajra_--why is the former always bent? + +Prickly pear common from where we crossed the Jhilun river. + +A curious metamorphosis of Sesamum is of common occurrence: the calyx +being unchanged, while the corolla preserves somewhat its shape, but is +foliaceous, the other organs are much transformed, the ovary less so than +the stamina, but generally much enlarged; _ovules in leaves_ inside. +This is worthy of examination, as it shows very plainly the origin of the +stigmata from the placentae. + +_30th_.--Halted owing to having been robbed of two horses. + +_31st_.--Wuzerabad, twenty-four miles. Ten miles from Wuzerabad the road +extended through a highly cultivated country, and crossed the Chenab, on +the left bank of which river Wuzerabad is situated. The Chenab is a fine +river, the stream 150 yards wide, but on either side extensive beds of +sand show that the river during some seasons is of great width. + +Wuzerabad is a nice well built town, having a fine straight bazaar, with +paved street. The chief gateways and residences built by General +Avitabile. + +Chilodia occurs in abundance, Eleusine sp., E. coracana; _Bajra_ and +_Joari Nihi_ being the prevailing cultivation. + +It is curious that in Phulahi major of Sera and the _Kikkur_, the young +branches only are armed with thorns, so that the spines must be deciduous +in certain species of Mimosa. + +Cactus is an instance of a calyx composed of a congeries of adherent +leaves, which leaves produce from their axilla, tufts of white hair and +thorns; or is it not an instance of an axis hollowed out towards the +apex, to the sides of which the ovary finally adheres, in this case the +outermost series of the perianth will be calyx; one reason for adopting +this supposition, besides the axillary bodies, is that there is no +gradation between the small concave leaves of the calyx, and the outer +series of the perianth. + +_November 1st_.--Halted for fishing: Cyorinus Mrigala, is the _Mhoori_ +of these parts; it grows to a large size, is a handsome fish, and is +indeed considered the king of fishes by the Punjabees. The intestines +are in longitudinal folds of extremely small comparative diameter, and +enormous length; in a large specimen it is twenty-three times the length +of the body. The intestines of the _Mahaseer_ are on the other hand only +two and a quarter times the length of the body! + +Of the fish obtained, two are Perilamps, here called _Rohi_, + + 5 or 6 Cyprinides, + 4 or 5 Siluri, + 2 Ophiocephali, + 1 Esox. +Indeed I obtained a list of twenty-four species. + +_2nd_.--To Goograuwala, twenty-four and a half miles, over a fine +populous generally cultivated country. Goograuwala is a large town, +having the streets paved with brick like those of Wuzerabad. Cactus very +common; _Kikkur_ (Mimosa) is the chief tree here about the _Fukeer's_ +abodes. The Banyan also occurs. + +Peganum and Kochia of Jallalabad continue. There is a fort of some size +close to this town, built of mud; the ditch is unfinished, and not deep, +it has a fau-se-braie, with bastions like those at Peshawur and Jumrood. +The surface of the ground is much broken close up to it, the earth being +taken away for bricks. + +_3rd_.--Proceeded to Koori, an inconspicuous village, belonging to M. +Court; it is surrounded by extensive plains, on which a tall grass occurs +to a great extent. Distance twenty-eight and a half miles, the time +taken for to-day's journey was six and a quarter hours. + +The country is precisely similar to that previously noticed, the only new +feature being the grassy plains, in which at some little distance from +Koori, deer, partridge, hares, etc. are said to abound. + +A sissoo-like tree is not uncommon. + +_4th_.--To Shah Durrah, twenty-three and a half miles at Nunzul, eight +miles from Shah Durrah, a fort with ditch out of repair was passed, at +Koori ten miles from Shah Durrah, passed a deep Nullah called Baghbuchah, +with high banks, thence entered on a tract of country covered with +Saccharum, (_Moong_), from which ropes are made; (this is the same as the +Chuch species,) we next entered on cultivation close to Shah Durrah, +which place is well wooded. + +Mangoe trees, _Ams_, Eugenia Jambolana, _Jams_, _Bheirs_, Phoenix, +_Kikkur_, and Ficus, are the principal trees. + +The grassy tracts of the Punjab represent probably the original +vegetation, existing now only here and there owing to the extension of +cultivation. + +From Shah Durrah Lahore is visible, particularly the buildings of the +Mogul emperor's, consisting of a conspicuous dome in ruins, and some +minarets, a large Serai likewise going to ruin, standing in the immediate +vicinity of the Royal Gardens, Lahore is decidedly a handsome looking +city viewed from Shah Durrah. + +So great is the tendency in palms to throw out roots towards the base, +that these roots exist in the common _Khujoor_, although they have to get +rid of the indurated bases of the petioles before they can make their +exit. They are so extremely short and indurate that it is difficult to +imagine the function they perform; at first they are capable probably of +absorbing from the air. + +_5th_.--Proceeded to General Court's house at Lahore, distance six miles, +the road after crossing the Ravee river near a royal summer house of no +extraordinary merits, passes on to the town, and then winds round under +the Simon Boorge, a very striking part, at least exteriorly of the city, +for the buildings, works, etc. are in good repair. Besides this the +ground outside is swardy and prettily wooded. + + + +CHAPTER XXIII. + + +_From Lahore to Simla_. + +Lahore is surrounded by a ditch and wall, the work of former emperors' of +Delhi; the environs of the city, particularly towards M. Court's +residence, are studded with mosques, etc. mostly half ruined, and the +ground is literally strewn with old bricks, so that the city must at one +time have been an enormous one. + +Seikh troops in large numbers are cantoned round to the east and south- +east skirts of the town, in low pucka barracks. + +Several low mounds apparently unconnected with ruins, occur in this +direction. + +I arrived to hear of the death of Kurruck Sing, who was burned the same +day with five women; after the ceremony a scaffolding fell down, wounding +Nehal Sing dangerously in the head, and killing the son of Goolab Sing. +Late in the evening the Maharajah was senseless. + +It is a curious thing, that the prince who this day ascended the +_guddee_, and Goolab Sing, had been active intriguers against Kurruck +Sing, who is said to have had his death hastened through chagrin at +witnessing Nehal Sing's usurpation of power. + +_6th_.--Not much cultivation was observed on the road to-day, which +extended over a naked marshy saline plain, or through a _Kureel_, and +small _Jundy_ and _Phulahi_ district. + +To Kanah, seventeen miles--_Jundy_, _Kureel_ and _Bheir_ occur +extensively. _Jundy_ is a low prickly shrub, Mimosa. There is something +curious both in the surface of the cavity enclosing the seed, and in that +of the seed itself of Acacia serissa. The former presents the distinct +appearance of a straight line, originating in the same spot as the +funicle, and terminating in a very well marked, circular depression; it +is formed by the funicle as far as the cells of the legume. If a section +be made through the seed longitudinally and its cell parallel with the +plane of the legume, this mark will be found on both sides of the cell, +but more distinct on one than the other. + +The mark on the seed by no means relates to this, at least it does not +correspond with it, for it consists of a somewhat reniform elevated +ridge, the ends of which do not meet, but one of which originates from an +elevation to which the depression would seem to respond. The straight +line does not correspond with the funicle, which is not straight, but is +pushed up in a curved form against the upper edge of the cell. + +It corresponds, however, with a straight subclavated line running from +the hilum to the elevation whence the curved line originates, although +this correspondence is not always well marked. + +[Sketch of Jundy seed: m504.jpg] + +The above marking, corresponding as it does in the flat part of the +legume with the funicle, evidently points to a peculiarity in the +distribution of the vascular system; probably it consists of the testa, +and if so, it is worthy of remark, as the main vessels ordinarily a +single one, run along the edge, and not on the flat surface of the fruit. + +I know of no similar instance; in this plant the vessels of the testa are +distributed primarily at right angles with the placenta, and not in +parallel lines with that organ. If the seed were depressed instead of +compressed, it would not present this peculiarity, although even then the +two primary vessels would be remarkable. From this instance it may be +assumed that the hilum may only be defined correctly as the spot of union +between the body of the seed and the funiculus. The leaflets of the +plumula are pinnate. + +It is also curious that the distribution of green parenchyma is along the +course of the veins of the legume, and that there is a more minute +reticulation, and a greater development of the green colour on the faces +of the cells, than on any other part of the surface of the legume. There +is no difference appreciable by the naked eye between the placental and +dorsal sutures, with the exception of the sutural line of union, which +has the usual relation with the axis of the head of the flowers--Euphorbia +occurs here. + +The affinity of Cacteae with Grossulaceae is questionable, the systems of +organization being very different. Query--What instances are there of +affinity between inferior ovary plants, with distinct definite envelopes +and stamina, and plants with a perhaps similar ovary, but with indefinite +envelopes and definite stamina with a want of correspondence in the +structure of the fruit? + +_7th_.--To Kussoor, twenty miles. The road extended generally through a +_Jundy_ country: about half-way Salvadora appears in abundance. Kussoor +is a large well-built town, consisting of three separate parts, each +surrounded by a _pucka_ wall furnished with bastions: these three parts +are at some distance from each other. _Furas_ tree common. + +_8th_.--Ferozepore. About this place two species of Kochia occur, and +Artemisia is not uncommon. The Serratuloides of Alli-Baghan and Ichardeh +in profusion, affording cover for game. + +_16th to 21st_.--Loodianah. In the Nullah, Butomus begonifolius +occurs. + +The following are the fish of Loodianah taken both from the Nullah and +the Sutledge. + +_Roh_.--Cyprinus (Cirrhinus), a large, very handsome, excellent, orange- +brown fish, takes a bait but is capricious. + +_Rohoo_.--A sombre black-brown fish, intestines several times the length +of the body, said to be the young of the above. Both these are different +from the Roh or Ruee of the Ganges. + +_Coorsah_.--Labeo Cursis, a definite scaled sombre fish, it is good food, +and attains the size of two to three seers; intestines twice the length +of the body, very narrow. + +_Kkul Bhans_.--Cirrhinus Calbasu, a sombre looking breamoid-shaped +fish, attains the same size as the above, and is reputed to be excellent +food. + +_Mhirgh_.--Gobio Mrigala, a handsome fish, particularly when young; form +very elegant, intestines fourteen times the length of the body; excellent +food. + +_Bura Raiwah_.--Gobio Rewah, a very handsome, eight-cornered, scaled +fish, with orange fins and golden sides: takes no bait? + +_Chota Raiwah_.--Gobio occurs in shoals--either occupied in busily +turning up its silvery sides against the bottom, or at the surface, above +which it may be seen protruding its head. + +_Bhangun_.--Gobio, a handsome fish, not esteemed. + +_Potea_.--Systomus, takes bait--worms; affords good sport and reaches to +one seer, but is not esteemed; colours ordinary. + +_Systomus_, a beautiful fish, back shining green, sides yellow, scales +beautifully striate, with a spot near the tail; mostly found in still +water. + +_Gonorrhynchus_.--Snout rough, colours sombre, belly somewhat +protuberant; found with Systomus. The intestines are of the usual form +of the genus. + +Gonorrhynchus, a sombre smaller fish, found in still water. + +_Bura Chalwa_.--Much esteemed as food in the districts of the Sutledge. + +_Perilampus_.--Intestines shorter than the body, having at the lower end +a short curve; above green, from lateral line downwards silvery. + +_Moh_.--A _Siluroid_ fish, does not attain the size of the real Moh, +which is a higher or deeper formed fish. + +_Tengrei_.--Silurus platycephalus. Attains a very large size. + +_Gudha_.--A Percoid. Colour irregular brown, mouth very protractile. + +_Gughal_.--Ophiocephalus, a handsome fish, back rich greenish, mottled +brown, with 3 or 4 black spots on the sides, which are yellow, passing +off into white, and a peacock spot on the tail. Fins spotted with white: +it reaches a large size. + +_Bham_.--Macrognathus, body eel-shaped, with a row of movable spines +along the back. + +About Loodianah, the Naiad of Affghanistan, Monandra, stigmatibus +reniformibus, is common in the Nullah, so also is Butomus begonifolius, +but this may be a leafless form of Sagittaria. + +Towards Roopur, Sissoo becomes more and more common. Roopur is a largish +town, with a Seikh pucka fort on a mound. The fort is surrounded by a +dry ditch. The town is situated on a low, rather rugged ground, forming +the first elevations of the surface towards the Himalayas; beyond it to +the north-east is a low spur, also to the west a similar spur, very +barren, rugged, clayey rock forming the immediate bank of the river. +Every thing assimilates to the Bukriala and Jhilun ranges. Saccharum, +_Moong_, as before, _Bheir_ likewise occurs. + +Phoenix, Dalbergia sissoo, Ficus, Adhatoda, Boerhaavia scandens, +Hyperanthera, Morus, Apluda, Tamarisk, Riccia, Ammannia, Euphorbia +antiquorum, Cactus, and Dodonaea, form the chief vegetation. + +Some rapids occur near the Bungalow: the strongest is under a cliff on +the opposite side; no fish rose to red or black hackle or orange flies, +all which were tried in vain in the deep still water close under +Bungalow. The plants of this place are Guilandina, Grewia arbuscula in +fruit, Justicia, _Bheir_, _Neem_, Mango, Parkinsonia, the latter rare. + +Fish caught in net are Mullet, this fish is very active, and escapes by +jumping over. Silurus, Mahaseer, several of the latter taken at a haul, +the largest 10 lbs., it is a beautiful fish with golden sides, scales +black, with the anterior half bluish-black, posterior half tawny-yellow, +fins orange, lips very thick and leathery; it lives half or +three-quarters of an hour after it is taken out of its element. + +The _Nepura_ of the natives, Gobio malacostoma, or Rock Carp of Gray, +Hardwicke's Illustrations, is the _puhar-ka muchee_ of these parts: +it has the base and edges of the scales dull greenish-blue, fins dusky, a +transverse pink line across the scales; the length of the intestines is +twenty-two and a half times that of the body, filled with mud and +coloured pulp, stomach continuous with the intestine, and more fleshy, +filled with green and whitish pulp, and disposed in longitudinal folds. + +The _Bangun_, Roh, (Gobio) is a splendid fish, base and edges of the +scales dusky brown, otherwise refulgent gilded, belly white, fins dusky, +head greenish-brown, less gilding about the dorsal scales. This fish I +have not seen elsewhere. Length of intestines disposed in longitudinal +folds, the posterior of which are nearly as long as abdominal cavity, the +whole twenty-seven and a half times the length of the body. Organization +and contents as in _Nepura_. The breadth or depth of this fish +immediately behind the opercule three inches, across the body, opposite +the first ray of dorsal fin, five inches, first ray of anal three inches, +length twenty-two inches. + +Query--In which part of a fish intestines like that of the Mahaseer, is +the chief digestion carried on? + +_27th_.--To Nalighur Bungalow, the distance rather less than sixteen, but +over fourteen miles through a similar country to that round Roopur. The +road passes a large village called Canowli; at rather less than about +half-way it extended across a sandy dry river bed of some extent, on the +right bank of which, at the highest part, is a Seikh brick fort. The +road subsequently passes the Sursa, a small shallow rapid stream. The +dry bed of which turns up on the south side of the low range to the south +of Nalighur valley. No change in vegetation takes place, except the +occurrence of a Croton, much like that of the Pagoda near Canowli. + +Trees observed--Eugenia Jambolana, Mangifera indica, Ficus, _Bheir_, +_Neem_ or Melia Azadarach, Parkinsonia about the bungalow. Toon, Cordia, +Bauhinia, Bambusa, Emblica, Morus, Plumeria, Mudar, Saccharum, _Moong_, +Bheir fruticos and Kikkur are the most common indigenous forms. Dhak in +patches here and there: Cassia also occurs. + +Nalighur consists of a village and fort, the latter situated to the north- +east half-way up a range of hills, the country about very barren. Indeed +the aspect of the country is much like that between Hussun Abdul and the +Jhilun, except in the rarity of _Phulahi_. + +A great affinity exists in foliation between Terebinthace and Sapindaceae. +Also both in foliation, flowers, and habit, between Myrtaceae and +Guttiferae, the only material differences being in aroma, and adherent +ovary. + +The plants observed about Nalighur Bungalow, exclusive of species +collected, were Cassia lanceolatoid, this is the common Indian _Tora_, +Acacia, _Rairoo_, Achyranthes aspera, Digera arvensis, Polanisia viscosa, +Carissa, Carandas, Bheir frutex, Coccinea communis, Cucurbita, Sida +multilocularis, Amaranthus? spicatus, Cassia fistula. + +Eleusine _echinata_; Poa very common, as well as _Dhoob_. + +In gardens--Tabernamontana coronaria, _Bhee_, Chrysanthemum double and +ligulate. Of Birds, _Pica vagans_. + +_28th_.--From Nalighur to Ramgurh, a good ten miles. The road first +ascends through and above the town, then follows a short twisting +descent, and soon after a very long but not very steep ascent, until it +comes over the ravine of the Ramgurh river, and the descent to that +torrent; thence an uninterrupted steep ascent about as much as the +descent to Ramgurh. There is no bungalow at this stage, merely a few +shops and sheds. The fort is situated to the left of and 600 feet above +the town. + +From Ramgurh to Sahee Bungalow, the distance is eight miles, there is a +steep descent to Sursa torrent, which contains very little water, then a +rather long and gradual ascent, then descend to the Gumbur river. The +road then extends up this ascent for one and a half mile, and continues +ascending on the right bank until within half a mile of the bungalow, to +which there is a slight descent. There is no made road along the Gumbur, +and I missed or did not observe the Soorog river. The Gumbur is a clear, +good-sized stream, fordable about the rapids, bed narrow confined. + +The hills traversed were comparatively barren, and decidedly +uninteresting. However much in appearance they may here and there +assimilate to the Khorassan hills, no identity in vegetation exists +except perhaps in the Apocynum found at Attock. + +The country is cultivated with great labour, and the villages though +small are numerous, and present a look of plenty, like English +white-washed cottages. + +There is a difference between the vegetation of the hills near the plains +and those in the interior. On the former there are scarcely any trees, +and Adhatoda occurs in greater profusion than elsewhere. The Himalayan +provinces here present an extreme affinity with the same range to the +eastward, as Bootan and Mussoorie, but the forms are by no means so +frequent--i.e. species are not so numerous. Throughout the above twenty- +eight miles the vegetation is tropical: a few European forms occur as one +gets into the hills, but they are of no great value. The chief arboreous +vegetation consists of Rubiaceae, Mimoseae, Cassiaceae (_Bauhinia_), +Bignoniaceae, and Myrtaceae. These are much the most common between +Ramgurh and the ridge over Naligurh. Here also Nyctanthes is very +common; Zanthoxylon also occurs here and there like an Ash. + +On the ridge above Ramgurh, Adhatoda is very common; Carandas likewise +occurs, but is not very common; Eranthemoides is rather common, but this +occurs in profusion on the descent; Cassia tora, O. lanceolata, and +Peristrophe occur. + +On the descent from the above ridge, Porana appears. Lemon-grass, +Bambusifolia, Cryptogramae calamelanos, Adiantum flagelliformis. + +On the long ascent Grislea, Acacia, Bheir, Zanthoxylon, Cordia, +Nyctanthes, Myrtaceae 1-2, Wendlandia, Bignonia, Randia, and two or three +other trees about houses, a species of Ficus; Euphorbia antiquorum common +on the drier parts. + +On the ascent from the torrent, the vegetation is thick. Bauhinia +scandens, Carandas, Butea, Erythrina, neither common, others as before: +Loranthus. + +At Ramgurh, Peepul, Erythrina, Rhus planted; Euphorbia antiquorum very +common, Cassia tora, C. lanceolata, Carandas common, Kalanchoe +integrifolia, Adhatoda not rare, scarcely a single wild tree. + +Scutellaria occurs on the descent. Rubus, Berberis, Gnaphalium. On the +ascent from Sursa, Geranium, Clematis, Asparagus, Trichodesma of the +plains, Bombax (young), Bambusa, Hiroea, Dioscorea, Fragaria, Adiantum +flagelliformis, Calomelanos, Saccharum, _Moong_, Acacia, Adhatoda, Vitex, +etc. as before, but trees are not common, except Ficus and _Bheir_ in +profusion. + +Descent to the Gumbur the same. Pyrus pomum appears, Carandas, Anatherum +muricatum, Briedleioides common. Along the Gumbur river, Pyrus, +Adhatoda, Mimosa, Dalbergia sissoo, Myrtaceae, Euphorbia, etc. continue +as before. + +Between Nalighur and the commencement of the descent to the Gumbur, and +especially between the Sursa and that descent, the chief vegetation is +tropical grasses, such as Andropogons. Along the Gumbur, the hills are +well covered with tall bushes. Carandas common, but little if any grass. + +Fossil shells are found along the Gumbur. Of birds Pica vagans, +Haematornis, and several Sylviae were observed. + +About Sahi, young Pinus longifolia; all around, the hills are of the same +aspect. No fish were seen in the Gumbur, although I crossed it several +times. The view of the plains shows the commencement of the great chain +stretching out in low, very much undulated hillocks, precisely as in +Khorassan. + +_29th_.--Proceeded from Syree to Konyar: this I think the longest of the +marches to Loodianah, and is nothing but one series of ascents and +descents chiefly along the Gumbur ravine: at the foot of ascent to the +Konyar, the road crosses a considerable stream, and nearly at the summit +of the ascent, branches off to Soobathoo. + +Konyar is a rather large village, well ornamented with trees, in rather a +fine sort of valley, every inch of which is cultivated. The tank +adjacent to the village is well stocked with Nelumbium. + +To Syree, the distance is eight and a half to nine miles. The road +crosses the Konyar village and valley, then ascends to the south-east, +and continues ascending gradually by an excellent road for a considerable +way, then it skirts a ridge and comes on the grand Soobathoo road. From +this a short but steep ascent, followed by a descent of a mile and a +quarter, conducts you to the bungalow. + +No change occurs in the vegetation. The hills are more grassy and more +bare of trees, especially near Syree, but this is partly owing to +cultivation. The principal woody feature is Euphorbia antiquorum. + +The plants before noticed occur throughout, except about Syree, where +scarcely a shrub is to be seen, nothing but burnt up grasses. + +At Sahi, Roylea appears, also an odd-looking Modeeca and a Deeringia. +Near these is also an Asplenium, Echites. At Konyar, Prinsepia appears, +and continues becoming more and more frequent up to Syree. Towards this +place V. reniformis is seen, not a single northern grass, although Syree +must be nearly 5,000 feet high. + +At Sahi, Pinus longifolia, Phoenix, Salix, and Polygonum of Chugur-Serai; +this is common as far as Konyar. Acacia, Carandas, Urtica nivea. Rice +cultivated. + +About three miles beyond it, there is a beautiful ravine with dense +jungle and fine trees, chiefly Laurinea, and I think a Rhus; this is the +only spot I have seen reminding me of the Himalaya to the eastward. + +At Konyar--Toon, Morus, Musa, Deeringia, Berberis, Briedleia. + +The hills are as usual marked with wavy parallel lines, on which nothing +appears to grow. These lines are united by smaller oblique ones, whence +their origin? + +_30th_.--To Simla. The road extends over undulated ground along ridges +until the foot of the great ascent is reached; this is long and steep, +especially steep at the first, or Buttiara pass, where it turns to the +face of the mountain, and extends through beautiful woods. The ground +frozen, with some snow; from this to Simla the road is tolerably level, +and defended on the _Khudd_, or precipice side by a railing. It then +passes through fir woods, etc. in which the exceedingly pretty Jay of +Bharowli is common. + +The vegetation to the foot of the ascent, and nearly half-way up, is +unchanged. Andropogoneous grasses forming the prevailing feature; but +little arboreus or shrubby vegetation occurs. About halfway between +Syree and this an ascent takes place, on which Daphne, Hypericum, and +Echinops occur. + +Near Syree--Bombax, Ruta albiflora, Daphne, Pteris aquilina, Clutia, +Aspidium, Polytrichum nanum and aloides, Hypericum, Berberis, Rubus, +Prinsepia, Rosa, Jubrung, Grislea, (rare,) Clematis, Cerasus, _Datura_, +_Bukhein_, Citrus, Spermacoce, Poederia azurea, and Andropogon +bambusifolia were observed. Ficus two species, Ficus repens, +Pommereullioid spicis longis, Rubia Mungista, Galium, Polygonum of +Chugur, Carissa, (rare,) Amaranthaceae, Conyza. + +The great ascent is very instructive; half-way up observed Gaultheria, +conspicuous from its blood-coloured leaves; an oak occurs commonly but +stunted, and a few stunted Pinus longifolia. + +Buddlaeoides occurs two-thirds of the way up, with Mespilus microphyllus, +Alpina, Labiata and Pyrus. + +The oaks and Gaultheria increase in number and size towards Bithuria, +Conaria. + +The first to cease is Euphorbia. + +At the summit Berberis, Polygonum of Chugur, Rubus deltoideus, Conyza and +Prinsepia may be found, but to no extent. From this to Simla the +vegetation is chiefly northern. + +Nothing definite is observable with regard to the distribution of forests +about Simla. The principal secondary ranges, including the Choor, which +is quite void of shrubby vegetation, is about north-east and south-west; +generally the southern aspects of those ridges on which forests occur is +bare; of this, there is a notable instance--Muhassoo. + +Mount Jacka, which looks east and west by its broad faces, has both +densely enough wooded with oak, Euonymus, Rhododendron, Gaultheria, and +Ilex, but the ridge which looks to the plains is bare. + +Some ridges again are quite bare, as that lowish one between Mounts Jacka +and Muhassoo. + +The thickest and most humid woods decidedly occur on the northern faces +of the ridges; and all about Simla instances of this occur. Such spots +are at Simla so much sheltered from the sun, that the snow which fell on +the 23rd November is scarcely diminished. + +Even in these there is no comparison in luxuriance and variety of +vegetation with the Mishmee or Bootan portions of the same stupendous +chain. + +The trees are few in number as regards species, the only ones I have +observed are a species of oak which is very common, forming the chief +vegetation of the northern faces, and of both those of Mount Jacka. + +The scarlet Rhododendron which occurs in the highest parts of the woods, +an occasional Pyrus, Benthamia, Euonymus, Gaultheria very common, also +Pinus Deodara, longifolia, and excelsa; of these the Deodar is most +common. Ilex, a pretty tree, occurring on Mount Jacka. + +The following forms also I have noticed--Saxifraga ciliata, Berberis +asiatica, and Gnaphalia three or four species, which are chiefly confined +to grassy naked ridges. Thymus is also confined to these. + +Ruta albiflora is very common in woods; Dipsacea and Artemisia on exposed +grassy spots; Swertia is common in damp places; Spiraea bella, Ledum, +Stemodia, Epilobium, Viola, Saccharum rubrum, Valeriana, Fragaria, +Galium, Clematis, Rosa, Rubus, Rumex, Leguminosae, Coronilloid, Smilax. + +Acanthaceae, Androsaceae, particularly a Gnaphalioides common on the +exposed ridge of Mount Jacka; Myrsinea frutex, Parnassia common, Salix +fruticosa; on Prospect Point, Lycopodium, Herminioid, Epipactis, Orchideae +aliae, 2 Scitamineae. + +Elaeagnus, Mespilus microphyllus, Polygonum of Chugur; 2 or 3 +Amaranthaceae; Prinsepia, rare; very little variety in ferns; Pteris +chrysocarpa, Aspidium pungens, and another are the most common; nor is +there any variety in Epiphytous ferns, and very few Jungermannias. The +Mosses are Bartramia, Catharinea, Polytrichum aloides on banks with +Fissidens, otherwise Hypna are the most prevalent. A Neckera hangs from +every tree, and a Pterogonio Neckeroid covers almost every trunk, a +Brachymenium is likewise common. + +Altogether, though numerous, there is no great variety in form. + +On the summit of Chaka, Quercus, Gaultheria, and Rhododendron are common; +with here and there a Deodar. + +On the east face of that mountain consisting of a long ridge, grasses +form the chief vegetation, among which Andropogons and Schoenanthus are +not uncommon, Gnaphalia and Artemisia occur; Thymus, Androsace +gnaphalioides, Potentilla, Coronilloid, Labiata frutex, Jasminum, Rosa, +Mespilus microphyllus, Clematis, Cnicus, Rubus, Labiata alia, Galium, +Swertia, Salvia were noticed. + +Of the tropical forms, Andropogoneous grasses are most common, Saccharum +rubrum of the Khasyah Mountains, Desmodium, Acanthaceae, and Elaeagnus, +which last occurs on Prospect Point. + +Saccharum rubrum extends up to 8,000 feet. + +The woods generally on the surface are matted down with grasses or +Carexes, so that there is no variety of surface for the lower orders; in +such places, Ophiopogon is very common. + +Regarding the Coniferae, Pinus excelsa is the rarest, Deodar is the most +common; longifolia occurs principally on a southern projection from +Chaka, and on the south face of the Mall ridge. + +_December 5th_, _1840_.--Went to Mount Fagoo. After passing Mount +Jacka, or Chaka, you come on a bare country which continues at least on +all the southern aspects until you reach the ascent to Muhassoo, which is +at first steep, then gradual and long; the vegetation remains unchanged +until the Muhassoo ascent is begun upon; then Rhododendron, Quercus and +Gaultheria soon cease, and their places are occupied by a Quercus much +like Q. semecarpifolius, Pinus excelsa also occurs rather abundantly, and +of good size, the other vegetation continues. + +The first part of Muhassoo, along which the road runs for some hundred +yards under its crest, is occupied by grassy vegetation, chiefly +Andropogon and Schoenanthus; Gnaphalia, Buddlaea, Labiata, Polygonum of +Chugur, Thymus, etc., and the crest of the same is chiefly occupied by +the undescribed oak. + +But where the ridge takes a north and south direction, the west face +becomes almost exclusively occupied by Deodars, among which as one +proceeds up, Pinus Smithiana occurs; after turning again close to the +little Bazar on the north face, the road continues on this side to Fagoo, +extending through a heavy and magnificent forest of Pinus Smithiana and +Quercus semecarpifolius, the Deodar almost ceasing to appear; occasional +knolls are passed, on which grasses, Gnaphalium, etc. occur, the scenery +is very beautiful, the trees being ornamented with the grey pendulous +lichen, and with Neckerae, particularly the dark Neckera pendula. The +underwood consists here and there of shrubs, but generally herbaceous +vegetation, as grasses, Gnaphalia, etc. + +In fact Muhassoo is genuinely Himalayan. + +From Fagoo eastward the country is bare, except at great elevations; near +Muttiara to the north, forest-clad mountains occur, also at Huttoo, and +far away to the eastward other fir-clad ridges appear. + +It may be said that the really fine forests are restricted above, within +8,000 feet. + +The Smithia pine is a really fine tree, often 100 feet high, and three to +five feet in diameter, known by its downward curved branches, pendulous +branchlets, and pendulous oblong cones: many dead trees from the effects +of barking were observed. It is worthy of remark, that potatoes are now +cultivated in these woods. + +The Deodar is not so large as Smithia, and is known by its tabular +branches and ovoid erect cones. + +Andropogoneous grasses occur high up; even at the summit Acanthaceae +occur, scarcely any change in the terrestrial ferns, among which Adiantum +is found in profusion along the road, little change in Mosses, a +Polytrichum occurs at the higher elevations, also a Dicranum on dead +trunks of trees. + +The only new arboreous vegetation consists in an Acer, which is a small +tree, also a small Poplar and Quercus semecarpifolius, this varies +greatly, Pinus Smithiana, Limonia laureola, a shrubby Rhododendron. + +Fagoo is only 5,600 feet above the adjacent heights. + +On the edge of the forest, the following genera, etc. were noticed--Spiraea +bella and S. aruncus,* Berberis asiatica, Swertia, grasses common, +Gnaphalium, Senecio., Epilobium, Pteris chysocarpa, P. aquilina, +Adiantum, Aspidium, Rumex, the Labiata fruticosa of Jacka, Potentilla +sanguinea, Artemisia, Coronilloid, Androsacea, Gnaphalioid, Epipactis, +Carex, Cnicus, Viola, Valerianum, Jasminum,* Viburnum,* V. aliud, +Populus,* Silene, Mespilus microphyllus, Verbascum, Thapsia, Ilex, +Euonymus, Loniceroid, Acer,* Eriogonoid,* Geranium scandens.* + +Bupleuroid, Polytrichum, Rosa, Rubus, Salex fruticosa,* Fragaria, +Crataegus,* Saxifraga crassifolia, Viscum, Rubia cordifolia. + +* Means altitudinal. + +Viscum has one attachment, but from this many branches spring after the +form of the primary one. Muhassoo is of great extent, because an arm of +the mountain extends to the south, and there assumes a considerable +height, equal to that of Muhassoo itself, and equally well wooded. It is +of all other situations about Simla the proper place for collecting. The +succession of the pines in these regions is as follows:-- + +P. longifolia, dry barren spots, from 5,000 to 7,500 feet, as +Rhododendrum arboreum. + +P. excelsa, from 7,500 to 8,500 feet, no groups occur. + +P. Deodars, from 7,500 to 9,000 feet, especially on southern faces. + +P. Smithiana, from 9,000 to 10,000 feet, and is in the highest perfection +on north faces. + +One thing remarkable is the wide ranges of the above forms, for excepting +those marked with an asterisk, all are found about Simla. + +The most common herbaceous family on Muhassoo is Compositae, and very +strange to say, most of its forms, as indeed the others, excepting some +of the trees, are found on the Khasyah Mountains at much lower +elevations, and much lower latitudes. Of birds the _Cone-eater_ of +Bootan occurs. + +_7th_.--To Annandale, a pretty level spot, some 2,000 feet below Simla, +remarkable for its beautiful grove of Deodars. + +Of the wild grasses they are almost all exclusively tropical forms, +Paniceous or Andropogoneous. The chief cultivation of the hills, +Atriplex sanguinea, _bhatoo vena_, some fine walnut trees, mulberries, +also Celtoidea? _Kirrack ven_, Zanthoxylon. + +Passed a herd of red-rumped monkeys; the crooked-tailed _Lungoor_ is also +found here. + +Rich vegetation extends down the southern slope, where there is a +waterfall. It is curious that both here and in Annandale the Deodar +grows to a large size, although naturally its range does not extend so +low as this slope. Passed a beautiful temple, surrounded with fine +Deodars. + +Ferns occur in more abundance, thence downwards Woodwardia, Dicksonia? +Cyatheoides, and Adiantum. Mosses also occur on the dripping rocks. + +An Alnus also occurs. + +No fish were visible in the streamlet. Peristrophe occurs throughout +from Roopur to Simla. + +Epiphytous or at least _Epirupous_ Scitaminia. Hedychium is found on +rocks on this slope, which would give an elevation of about 5,500 feet. + +On the sunny sides of hills about Simla, Dicerma is found, this is one of +the most tropical forms. + +No Epiphytous Orchidea are seen. And of birds Enicurus, the redstart of +torrents, and Myophonus were observed. + + + +CHAPTER XXIV. + + +_Heights and Latitudes of the Stations visited in_ +_Affghanistan_. {517} + +"The subjoined Table contains the latitudes and the altitudes of the +principal stations passed through by the late Dr. Griffith during the +Cabul campaign in 1838-40, from his original observations. The altitudes +for the latitudes were taken with the sextant and the artificial horizon, +and the results throughout are so nearly coincident, that it may be +relied on the latitudes herein given are correct to within half a minute +in space. + +[Formula for Latitude/Elevation: m517.jpg] + +_Latitudes_, _and Elevations above the Sea_, _of the various_ +_localities visited in Affghanistan_. + +[Lat/El. 1: tle1.jpg] + +[Lat/El. 2: tle2.jpg] + +[Lat/El. 3: tle3.jpg] + + + + +NOTES. + + +{0a} Major Thomson, C. B., Engineers, from whom as well as all the +officers of the same corps, Mr. Griffith experienced much kindness in +Affghanistan. + +{0b} _Racoma nobilis_, Calcutta Journ. Nat. Hist. Vol. ii, p.577. t. xv +fig. 4. Subfam. SCHIZOTHORACINAE. + +{0c} Calcutta Journal Natural History, Vol. II. p577, t, xv. f. 4. + +{7} It is also on a northern declivity. + +{9} On a hill near the Bungalow are the tombs of Lieuts. Burlton and +Beddinfield, two distinguished officers murdered by the natives in 1829. + +{12} Although in former times it must have been of some note, the +vicinity is strewed with sculptured stones and columns, of which the +modern buildings are constructed. These remains present the form and +proportions of European Architecture, and exhibit considerable taste. + +{24} The rank of the chiefs of various nations on the frontiers of Assam +depends on the number of skulls of vanquished enemies, which decorate +their houses. The Mishmee trophies, as appears from the author's account +in the Journ. As. Soc. May 1837, consist of the skulls of cattle only. + +{25} _Trigonocephalus mucrosquamatus_, afterwards described in Proc. +Zool. Soc. 1839, Vid. Cal. Journ. Nat. Hist. vol. 1, p.77. + +{29a} Subsequently described from this specimen in the Proceedings of the +Zoological Society, March 12, 1839. Cal. Journ. Nat. Hist. vol 1, p.82. + +{29b} _Gonorhynchus bimacalutus_, _G_. _brachypterus_, _Perilompus_ +_aequipinnatus_, and _Cobitis phoxocheila_, which have been all since +described from these specimens in the 19th vol. As. Res. Beng. + +{31} Afterwards crossed by the author in his journey into Burma. + +{33} For a narrative of Lieut. Wilcox's visit to the Mishmee mountains, +see As. Res. vol. xvii. p.314. + +{35} Mithun is, according to the author, a peculiar species of Ox. + +{40} Subsequently described by the author in an important communication +to the Linnaean Society. + +{42} One of the most influential of the Singpho chiefs, whose influence +at this period kept Upper Assam unsettled. + +{51} A Burmese authority. + +{53} Probably Major R. Bruce of the Rajah's service, one of the +Superintendents of Tea Cultivation. + +{54} For the whole of this able communication, detailing the object and +results of his visit to the Mishmee mountains, See Journ. As. Soc. Beng. +May 1837. + +{60} See Reports of the Coal Committee, 1841, p.3. + +{61a} See Description by the Author, As. Res. Bengal, Vol. xix. + +{61b} Since described from these specimens as _Calamaria monticola_, +and _Dipsas monticola_. Vide Proc. Zool. Soc. March 12th 1839, and +Cal. Journ. Nat. Hist. Vol. i. pp.80-85. + +{61c} As. Res. Vol. xix. p.336. + +{64} Dr. Bayfield was deputed by the Resident at Ava to meet the party +from Assam on the Burmese Frontier. + +{66} This is one of the Mountain Barbels, _Oreinus_, probably _O_. +_guttatus_, As. Res. vol. xix. p.273. + +{68} A Barbel, and an Oreinus, or Mountain Barbel. + +{74a} _Opsarius gracilus_, As. Res. vol. xix. p.419. + +{74b} A species of Barbel; probably _B_. _deliciosus_, As. Res. xix. +p.352. + +{75} Since described as _Cyprinus semiplotus_, As. Res. vol. xix. +p.346. + +{78} This would seem to be Coal formation, in which amber is frequently +found. It occurs, for instance, in the spurious coal of Kurribori, E. of +Rungpore. + +{111} The reading of this passage is obscure, the MS. being very faintly +written in pencil. + +{113} Introd. Nat. Syst. p.44. + +{114} The preceding eight pages within brackets are written faintly in +pencil. + +{115a} The usual route is to Kujoo Ghat, about five miles below Moodoa +Mookh, thence through Sooroo, Kujoo, etc. to the Booree Dihing. + +{115b} By the Karam and this other branch, on which old Beesa was +situated, all the water which formerly supplied the Noa Dihing now passes +into the Booree Dihing. + +{116} Most of the Singphos subject to our control are located between +Kujoo Ghat and the Booree Dihing, as well as on the banks of this river +and in the valley of the Tenga Panee. + +{117} The existence of Petroleum is of value as connected with the +solution of Caoutchouc. + +{118} The affix Nam, signifies in the Shan language a river or stream. + +{119a} The word _Kha_ is Singfo, and signifies a river. + +{119b} Here Capt. Hannay and myself were met by Mr. Bayfield. + +{119c} Khioung, or Kioung, signifies a small river in the Burmese +language. + +{119d} Bhoom is the Singfo word for mountain. + +{124a} Which we forded a few miles below Isilone; depth of the ford from +two to four feet. + +{124b} In this direction the valley is nearly 65 miles in length. + +{125} This river rises in a conspicuous range, well known by the name of +Shewe Down-gyee, or great golden mountain. + +{126} This is certainly not the Ulukhor of Buch. Hamilton's statistics of +Dinajpoor. + +{128} Probably from a species of Sterculia. + +{129} The Toung-bein of the Burmese. + +{130} Many of these hills are inhabited by Kukkeens, who do a great deal +of mischief, and whose annual depredations remain unchecked and +unpunished. + +{132} Serpentine is occasionally found in the bed of the Nam-marsan. + +{139} Especially on the right bank. + +{145} It must be observed that Kamein is several miles out of the route +from the Mogoung river to Mogoung itself, we visited it en route to the +Serpentine mines. + +{147} This is the site of the fossil bones discovered by Mr. Crawfurd. + +{149} These brackets are shown in the text turned through 90 degrees. - +L. B. + +{168} The Kullung rock is a most striking object from its artificial dome- +like appearance. It is composed of granite resting on an elevated +plateau of soft friable gneiss. This last in mouldering away, leaves +numerous rounded boulder-like masses of granite on the surface, which +from their hardness, resist the action of the atmosphere amidst the +surrounding decay of the softer rock. + +{172} For original notice of the discovery of this raised beach, see +Journal of the Asiatic Society, September 1835, p.523; and an account of +the difference of level in Indian coal fields, vol. vii, 1838, p.65 of +the same work; also description of Cyrtoma a new genus of Fossil +Echinida, Calcutta Journal of Nat. Hist. vol. i, p.155. + +{183} Simia Hylobates agilis. + +{186} Raised on posts. + +{193} See Journal Asiatic Society of Bengal, vol,--Feb. 1838. + +{205a} Eastern Thibet. + +{205b} For this and similar figures, see {212} + +{205c} _Barbus hexagonolepis_, Asiatic Res. xix.--Pl. f. 3, pp.170, +313, 336. + +{205d} Cyprinus Semiplotus As. Res. xix.--Pl. 37. f. 2, pp.274, 346. + +{206a} Opsarius gracilus, As. Res. vol. xix. + +{206b} See {35} + +{212} Such figures may be thus read. Temp. of the air 60 degrees Fah., +that of boiling water 204.5 degrees. + +{217a} Relative heights. + +{217b} These figures refer to Woollaston's thermetrical barometer. + +{221} Centropus nigrorufus. + +{227} _Oreinus progastus_, As. Res. vol. xix. pl. 40, fig. 4. + +{349} Referred to by the Author as an Anthemidioid, and on one occasion +as _Santonica achilleoidea_. + +{383} Schizothorax Edeniana, Cal. Journ. Nat. Hist. Vol. II. p.579. + +{390a} Schizothoracinae. + +{390b} Cobitis marmorata, see Calcutta Journal of Nat. Hist. Vol. II, +p.560, where the Fishes collected by Mr. Griffith in these parts are +described. + +{404} Salmo orientalis, Calcutta, Journ. Nat. Hist. Vol. III. p.283. + +Throughout Southern Asia, including the Punjab, and both plains and +peninsula of India properly so called, no species exists of the trout +family or Salmonidae. Their discovery in the streams descending from the +northern declivity of the Hindoo-koosh distinguishes that chain as the +southern boundary or limit of the family. It is also remarkable that the +Hindoo-koosh should likewise be the exclusive province of a numerous +group of small scaled Cyprinidae, met with only in the rivers of +Affghanistan, consisting of the genera, Schizothorax, Racoma, and +Oreinus, of which one or two species only have been found to extend south +along the plateau of the Himalaya, as far as 27 degrees N., while the +bulk of the family is confined to 34 degrees N. See Calcutta Journ. Nat. +Hist. Vol. II. p.560 t. xv. + +{417} This alludes to a sketch of the valley. + +{418} Melia. + +{435} For the particulars of this attack in which Mr. Griffith nearly +lost his life, the reader is referred to extracts from private +correspondence. + +{450} These sketches, together with the author's further views on the +subject, will be more appropriately incorporated in the second part of +his Posthumous Papers, entitled 'Icones Plantarum Asiaticarum,' and +'Notulae ad plantas Asiaticas.' + +{479} Nearly allied to _Cobitis chlorosoma_, As. Res. Vol. xix, pl. 52, +f. 3. + +{481} This is an undescribed species if not an undescribed genus, and was +by some mischance lost from the collections; it may properly, when +described, receive the name of the author, who was the first to notice so +remarkable a form. + +{484} It is chiefly important as a generic, not as a specific character, +see _November 1st_. + +{517} The Editor is indebted to the kindness of Mr. Curnin, not only for +the note with which this table of heights and latitudes is introduced, +but also for the construction of the table itself from the results of 437 +observations for latitudes alone, and an equal number almost for +altitudes. + + + +***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK JOURNALS OF TRAVELS IN ASSAM, BURMA, +BHOOTAN, AFGHANISTAN AND THE NEIGHBOURING COUNTRIES*** + + +******* This file should be named 15171.txt or 15171.zip ******* + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/5/1/7/15171 + + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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