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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/15167.txt b/15167.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..fe64a64 --- /dev/null +++ b/15167.txt @@ -0,0 +1,4565 @@ +The Project Gutenberg eBook, London River, by H. M. Tomlinson + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + +Title: London River + +Author: H. M. Tomlinson + +Release Date: February 25, 2005 [eBook #15167] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII) + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LONDON RIVER*** + + +E-text prepared by Al Haines + + + +LONDON RIVER + +by + +H. M. TOMLINSON + +Garden City, New York +Garden City Publishing Co., Inc +Alfred A. Knopf, Inc. + +1921 + + + + + + + +TO MY MOTHER + +AND TO THE MEMORY OF MY FATHER + + + + +Contents + + I THE FORESHORE + II A MIDNIGHT VOYAGE + III A SHIPPING PARISH + IV THE "HEART'S DESIRE" + V THE MASTER + VI THE SHIP-RUNNERS + VII NOT IN THE ALMANAC + VIII THE ILLUSION + IX IN A COFFEE-SHOP + X OFF-SHORE + XI AN OLD LLOYD'S REGISTER + + + + +I. The Foreshore + +It begins on the north side of the City, at Poverty Corner. It begins +imperceptibly, and very likely is no more than what a native knows is +there. It does not look like a foreshore. It looks like another of +the byways of the capital. There is nothing to distinguish it from the +rest of Fenchurch Street. You will not find it in the Directory, for +its name is only a familiar bearing used by seamen among themselves. +If a wayfarer came upon it from the west, he might stop to light a pipe +(as well there as anywhere) and pass on, guessing nothing of what it is +and of its memories. And why should he? London is built of such old +shadows; and while we are here casting our own there is not much time +to turn and question what they fall upon. Yet if some unreasonable +doubt, a suspicion that he was being watched, made a stranger hesitate +at that corner, he might begin to feel that London there was as +different from Bayswater and Clapham as though deep water intervened. +In a sense deep water does; and not only the sea, but legends of ships +that have gone, and of the men who knew them, and traditions of a +service older than anything Whitehall knows, though still as lively as +enterprise itself, and as recent as the ships which moved on today's +high water. + +In a frame outside one of its shops hangs a photograph of a sailing +ship. The portrait is so large and the beauty of the subject so +evident that it might have been the cause of the stranger stopping +there to fill his pipe. Yet how could he know that to those groups of +men loitering about the name of that ship is as familiar as Suez or +Rio, even though they have never seen her? They know her as well as +they know their business. They know her house-flag--it is +indistinguishable in the picture--and her master, and it is possible +the oldest of them remembers the clippers of that fleet of which she +alone now carries the emblem; for this is not only another year, but +another era. But they do not look at her portrait. They spit into the +road, or stare across it, and rarely move from where they stand, except +to pace up and down as though keeping a watch. At one time, perhaps +thirty years ago, it was usual to see gold rings in their ears. It is +said that if you wanted a bunch of men to run a little river steamer, +with a freeboard of six inches, out to Delagoa Bay, you could engage +them all at this corner, or at the taverns just up the turning. The +suggestion of such a voyage, in such a ship, would turn us to look on +these men in wonder, for it is the way of all but the wise to expect +appearance to betray admirable qualities. These fellows, though, are +not significant, except that you might think of some of them that their +ease and indifference were assumed, and that, when trying not to look +so, they were very conscious of the haste and importance of this great +city into which that corner jutted far enough for them. They have just +landed, or they are about to sail again, and they might be standing on +the shore eyeing the town beyond, in which the luck of ships is cast by +strangers they never see, but who are inimical to them, and whose ways +are inscrutable. + +If there are any inland shops which can hold one longer than the place +where that ship's portrait hangs, then I do not know them. That comes +from no more, of course, than the usual fault of an early impression. +That fault gives a mould to the mind, and our latest thoughts, which we +try to make reasonable, betray that accidental shape. It may be said +that I looked into this window while still soft. The consequence, +everybody knows, would be incurable in a boy who saw sextants for the +first time, compasses, patent logs, sounding-machines, signalling gear, +and the other secrets of navigators. And not only those things. There +was a section given to books, with classics like Stevens on _Stowage_, +and Norie's _Navigation_, volumes never seen west of Gracechurch +Street. The books were all for the eyes of sailors, and were sorted by +chance. _Knots and Splices_, _Typee_, _Know Your Own Ship_, the _South +Pacific Directory_, and _Castaway on the Auckland Islands_. There were +many of them, and they were in that fortuitous and attractive order. +The back of every volume had to be read, though the light was bad. On +one wall between the windows a specimen chart was framed. Maps are +good; but how much better are charts, especially when you cannot read +them except by guessing at their cryptic lettering! About the coast +line the fathom marks cluster thickly, and venture to sea in lines +which attenuate, or become sparse clusters, till the chart is blank, +being beyond soundings. At the capes are red dots, with arcs on the +seaward side to show at what distance mariners pick up the real lights +at night. Through such windows, boys with bills of lading and mates' +receipts in their pockets, being on errands to shipowners, look +outward, and only seem to look inward. Where are the confines of +London? + +Opposite Poverty Corner there is, or used to be, an archway into a +courtyard where in one old office the walls were hung with half-models +of sailing ships. I remember the name of one, the _Winefred_. +Deed-boxes stood on shelves, with the name of a ship on each. There +was a mahogany counter, an encrusted pewter inkstand, desks made secret +with high screens, and a silence that might have been the reproof to +intruders of a repute remembered in dignity behind the screens by those +who kept waiting so unimportant a visitor as a boy. On the counter was +a stand displaying sailing cards, announcing, among other events in +London River, "the fine ship _Blackadder_ for immediate dispatch, +having most of her cargo engaged, to Brisbane." And in those days, +just round the corner in Billiter Street, one of the East India +Company's warehouses survived, a sombre relic among the new limestone +and red granite offices, a massive archway in its centre leading, it +could be believed, to an enclosure of night left by the eighteenth +century, and forgotten. I never saw anybody go into it, or come out. +How could they? It was of another time and place. The familiar Tower, +the Guildhall that we knew nearly as well, the Cathedral which +certainly existed, for it could often be seen in the distance, and the +Abbey that was little more than something we had heard named, they were +but the scenery close to the buses. Yet London was more wonderful than +anything they could make it appear. About Fenchurch Street and +Leadenhall Street wagons could be seen going east, bearing bales and +cases, and the packages were port-marked for Sourabaya, Para, Ilo-Ilo, +and Santos--names like those. They had to be seen to be believed. You +could stand there, forced to think that the sun never did more than +make the floor of asphalted streets glow like polished brass, and that +the evening light was full of glittering motes and smelt of dust, and +that life worked itself out in cupboards made of glass and mahogany; +and suddenly you learned, while smelling the dust, that Acapulco was +more than a portent in a book and held only by an act of faith. Yet +that astonishing revelation, enough to make any youthful messenger +forget where he himself was bound, through turning to follow with his +eyes that acceptance by a carrier's cart of the verity of the fable, is +nowhere mentioned, I have found since, in any guide to London, though +you may learn how Cornhill got its name. + +For though Londoners understand the Guildhall pigeons have as much +right to the place as the aldermen, they look upon the seabirds by +London Bridge as vagrant strangers. They do not know where their city +ends on the east side. Their River descends from Oxford in more than +one sense. It has little history worth mentioning below Westminster. +To the poets, the River becomes flat and songless where at Richmond the +sea's remote influence just moves it; and there they leave it. The +Thames goes down then to a wide grey vacuity, a featureless monotony +where men but toil, where life becomes silent in effort, and goes out +through fogs to nowhere in particular. But there is a hill-top at +Woolwich from which, better than from Richmond, our River, the +burden-bearer, the road which joins us to New York and Sydney, can be +seen for what it is, plainly related to a vaster world, with the ships +upon its bright path moving through the smoke and buildings of the +City. And surely some surmise of what our River is comes to a few of +that multitude who cross London Bridge every day? They favour the east +side of it, I have noticed, and they cannot always resist a pause to +stare overside to the Pool. Why do they? Ships are there, it is true, +but only insignificant traders, diminished by sombre cliffs up which +their cargo is hauled piece-meal to vanish instantly into mid-air +caverns; London absorbs all they have as morsels. Anyhow, it is the +business of ships. The people on the bridge watch another life below, +with its strange cries and mysterious movements. A leisurely wisp of +steam rises from a steamer's funnel. She is alive and breathing, +though motionless. The walls enclosing the Pool are spectral in a +winter light, and might be no more than the almost forgotten memory of +a dark past. Looking at them intently, to give them a name, the +wayfarer on the bridge could imagine they were maintained there only by +the frail effort of his will. Once they were, but now, in some moods, +they are merely remembered. Only the men busy on the deck of the ship +below are real. Through an arch beneath the feet a barge shoots out +noiselessly on the ebb, and staring down at its sudden apparition you +feel dizzily that it has the bridge in tow, and that all you people on +it are being drawn unresisting into that lower world of shades. You +release yourself from this spell with an effort, and look at the faces +of those who are beside you at the parapet. What are their thoughts? +Do they know? Have they also seen the ghosts? Have they felt stirring +a secret and forgotten desire, old memories, tales that were told? +They move away and go to their desks, or to their homes in the suburbs. +A vessel that has hauled into the fairway calls for the Tower Bridge +gates to be opened for her. She is going. We watch the eastern mists +take her from us. For we never are so passive and well-disciplined to +the things which compel us but rebellion comes at times--misgiving that +there is a world beyond the one we know, regret that we never ventured +and made no discovery, and that our time has been saved and not spent. +The gates to the outer world close again. + +There, where that ship vanished, is the highway which brought those +unknown folk whose need created London out of reeds and mere. It is +our oldest road, and now has many bypaths. Near Poverty Corner is a +building which recently was dismissed with a brief, humorous reference +in a new guide to our City--a cobbled forecourt, tame pigeons, cabs, a +brick front topped by a clock-face: Fenchurch Street Station. Beyond +its dingy platforms, the metal track which contracts into the murk is +the road to China, though that is, perhaps, the last place you would +guess to be at the end of it. The train runs over a wilderness of +tiles, a grey plateau of bare slate and rock, its expanse cracked and +scored as though by a withering heat. Nothing grows there; nothing +could live there. Smoke still pours from it, as though it were +volcanic, from numberless vents. The region is without sap. Above its +expanse project superior fumaroles, their drifting vapours dissolving +great areas. When the track descends slightly, you see cavities in +that cliff which runs parallel with your track. The desert is actually +burrowed, and every hole in the plateau is a habitation. Something +does live there. That region of burnt and fissured rock is tunneled +and inhabited. The unlikely serrations and ridges with the smoke +moving over them are porous, and a fluid life ranges beneath unseen. +It is the beginning of Dockland. That the life is in upright beings, +each with independent volition and a soul; that it is not an amorphous +movement, flowing in bulk through buried pipes, incapable of the idea +of height, of rising, it is difficult to believe. It has not been +believed. If life, you protest, is really there, has any purpose which +is better than that of extending worm-like through the underground, +then why, at intervals, is there not an upheaval, a geyser-like burst, +a plain hint from a power usually pent, but liable to go skywards? But +that is for the desert to answer. As by mocking chance the desert +itself almost instantly shows what possibilities are hidden within it. +The train roars unexpectedly over a viaduct, and below is a deep hollow +filled with light, with a floor of water, and a surprise of ships. How +did that white schooner get into such an enclosure? Is freedom nearer +here than we thought? + +The crust of roofs ends abruptly in a country which is a complexity of +gasometers, canals, railway junctions, between which cabbage fields in +long spokes radiate from the train and revolve. There is the grotesque +suggestion of many ships in the distance, for through gaps in a +nondescript horizon masts appear in a kaleidoscopic way. The journey +ends, usually in the rain, among iron sheds that are topped on the far +side by the rigging and smoke-stacks of great liners. There is no +doubt about it now. At the corner of one shed, sheltering from the +weather, is a group of brown men in coloured rags, first seen in the +gloom because of the whites of their eyes. What we remember of such a +day is that it was half of night, and the wind hummed in the cordage, +and swayed wildly the loose gear aloft. Towering hulls were ranged +down each side of a lagoon that ended in vacancy. The rigging and +funnels of the fleet were unrelated; those ships were phantom and +monstrous. They seemed on too great a scale to be within human +control. We felt diminished and a little fearful, as among the looming +urgencies of a dream. The forms were gigantic but vague, and they were +seen in a smother of the elements; and their sounds, deep and mournful, +were like the warnings of something alien, yet without form, which we +knew was adverse, but could not recall when awake again. We remember, +that day, a few watchers insecure on an exposed dockhead that projected +into a sullen dreariness of river and mud which could have been the +finish of the land. At the end of a creaking hawser was a steamer +canting as she backed to head downstream--now she was exposed to a +great adventure--the tide rapid and noisy on her plates, the reek from +her funnel sinking over the water. And from the dockhead, in the +fuddle of a rain-squall, we were waving a handkerchief, probably to the +wrong man, till the vessel went out where all was one--rain, river, +mud, and sky, and the future. + +It is afterwards that so strange an ending to a brief journey from a +City station is seen to have had more in it than the time-table, +hurriedly scanned, gave away. Or it would be remembered as strange, if +the one who had to make that journey as much as thought of it again; +for perhaps to a stranger occupied with more important matters it was +passed as being quite relevant to the occasion, ordinary and rather +dismal, the usual boredom of a duty. Its strangeness depends, very +likely, as much on an idle and squandering mind as on the ships, the +River, and the gasometers. Yet suppose you first saw the River from +Blackwall Stairs, in the days when the windows of the _Artichoke +Tavern_, an ancient, weather-boarded house with benches outside, still +looked towards the ships coming in! And how if then, one evening, you +had seen a Blackwall liner haul out for the Antipodes while her crew +sang a chanty! It might put another light on the River, but a light, I +will admit, which others should not be expected to see, and if they +looked for it now might not discover, for it is possible that it has +vanished, like the old tavern. It is easy to persuade ourselves that a +matter is made plain by the light in which we prefer to see it, for it +is our light. + +One day, I remember, a boy had to take a sheaf of documents to a vessel +loading in the London Dock. She was sailing that tide. It was a hot +July noon. It is unlucky to send a boy, who is marked by all the omens +for a City prisoner, to that dock, for it is one of the best of its +kind. He had not been there before. There was an astonishing vista, +once inside the gates, of sherry butts and port casks. On the +flagstones were pools of wine lees. There was an unforgettable smell. +It was of wine, spices, oakum, wool, and hides. The sun made it worse, +but the boy, I think, preferred it strong. After wandering along many +old quays, and through the openings of dark sheds that, on so sunny a +day, were stored with cool night and cubes and planks of gold, he found +his ship, the _Mulatto Girl_. She was for the Brazils. Now it is +clear that one even wiser in shipping affairs than a boy would have +expected to see a craft that was haughty and portentous when bound for +the Brazils, a ship that looked equal to making a coast of that kind. +There she was, her flush deck well below the quay wall. A ladder went +down to her, for she was no more than a schooner of a little over one +hundred tons. If that did not look like the beginning of one of those +voyages reputed to have ended with the Elizabethans, then I am trying +to convey a wrong impression. On the deck of the _Mulatto Girl_ was +her master, in shirt and trousers and a remarkable straw hat more like +a canopy, bending over to discharge some weighty words into the hatch. +He rose and looked up at the boy on the quay, showing then a taut black +beard and formidable eyes. With his hands on his hips, he surveyed for +a few seconds, without speaking, the messenger above. Then he talked +business, and more than legitimate business. "Do you want to come?" he +asked, and smiled. "Eh?" He stroked his beard. (The Brazils and all! +A ship like that!) "There's a berth for you. Come along, my son." +And observe what we may lose through that habit of ours of uncritical +obedience to duty; see what may leave us for ever in that fatal pause, +caused by the surprise of the challenge to our narrow experience and +knowledge, the pause in which we allow habit to overcome adventurous +instinct! I never heard again of the _Mulatto Girl_. I could not +expect to. Something, though, was gained that day. It cannot be +named. It is of no value. It is, you may have guessed, that very +light which it has been admitted may since have gone out. + +Well, nobody who has ever surprised that light in Dockland will be +persuaded that it is not there still, and will remain. But what could +strangers see of it? The foreshore to them is the unending monotony of +grey streets, sometimes grim, often decayed, and always reticent and +sullen, that might never have seen the stars nor heard of good luck; +and the light would be, when closely looked at, merely a high gas +bracket on a dank wall in solitude, its glass broken, and the flame +within it fluttering to extinction like an imprisoned and crippled moth +trying to evade the squeeze of giant darkness and the wind. The narrow +and forbidding by-path under that glim, a path intermittent and +depending on the weight of the night which is trying to blot it out +altogether, goes to Wapping Old Stairs. Prince Rupert once went that +way. The ketch _Nonsuch_, Captain Zachary Gillam, was then lying just +off, about to make the voyage which established the Hudson's Bay +Company. + +It is a path, like all those stairs and ways that go down to the River, +which began when human footsteps first outlined London with rough +tracks. It is a path by which the descendants of those primitives went +out of London, when projecting the original enterprise of their +forbears from Wapping to the Guinea Coast and Manitoba. Why should we +believe it is different today? The sea does not change, and seamen are +what they were if their ships are not those we admired many years ago +in the India Docks. It is impossible for those who know them to see +those moody streets of Dockland, indeterminate, for they follow the +River, which run from Tooley Street by the Hole-in-the-Wall to the +Deptford docks, and from Tower Hill along Wapping High Street to +Limehouse and the Isle of Dogs, as strangers would see them. What +could they be to strangers? Mud, taverns, pawnshops, neglected and +obscure churches, and houses that might know nothing but ill-fortune. + +So they are; but those ways hold more than the visible shades. The +warehouses of that meandering chasm which is Wapping High Street are +like weathered and unequal cliffs. It is hard to believe sunlight ever +falls there. It could not get down. It is not easy to believe the +River is near. It seldom shows. You think at times you hear the +distant call of a ship. But what would that be? Something in the +mind. It happened long ago. You, too, are a ghost left by the +vanished past. There is a man above at a high loophole, the topmost +cave of a warehouse which you can see has been exposed to commerce and +the elements for ages; he pulls in a bale pendulous from the cable of a +derrick. Below him one of the horses of a van tosses its nose-bag. +There is no other movement. A carman leans against an iron post, and +cuts bread and cheese with a clasp-knife. It was curious to hear that +steamer call, but we knew what it was. It was from a ship that went +down, we have lately heard, in the War, and her spectre reminds us, +from a voyage which is over, of men we shall see no more. But the call +comes again just where the Stairs, like a shining wedge of day, hold +the black warehouses asunder, and give us the light of the River and a +release to the outer world. And there, moving swiftly across the +brightness, goes a steamer outward bound. + +That was what we wanted to know. She confirms it, and her signal, to +whomever it was made, carries farther than she would guess. It is +understood. The past for some of us now is our only populous and +habitable world, invisible to others, but alive with whispers for us. +Yet the sea still moves daily along the old foreshore, and ships still +come and go, and do not, like us, run aground on what now is not there. + + + + +II. A Midnight Voyage + +Our voyage was to begin at midnight from near Limehouse Hole. The hour +and the place have been less promising in the beginning of many a +strange adventure. Where the voyage would end could not be said, +except that it would be in Bugsby's Reach, and at some time or other. +It was now ten o'clock, getting towards sailing time, and the way to +the foreshore was unlighted and devious. Yet it was somewhere near. +This area of still and empty night railed off from the glare of the +Commercial Road would be Limehouse Church. It is foolish to suppose +you know the Tower Hamlets because you have seen them by day. They +change. They are like those uncanny folk of the fables. At night, +wonderfully, they become something else, take another form, which has +never been more than glimpsed, and another character, so fabulous and +secret that it will support the tales of the wildest romanticist, who +rightly feels that if such yarns were told of 'Frisco or Timbuctoo they +might get found out. Was this the church? Three Chinamen were +disputing by its gate. Perhaps they were in disagreement as to where +the church would be in daylight. + +At a corner where the broad main channel of electric light ended, and +perplexity began, a policeman stood, and directed me into chaos. +"Anywhere," he explained, "anywhere down there will do." I saw a +narrow alley in the darkness, which had one gas lamp and many cobbled +stones. At the bottom of the lane were three iron posts. Beyond the +posts a bracket lamp showed a brick wall, and in the wall was an arch +so full of gloom that it seemed impassable, except to a steady draught +of cold air that might have been the midnight itself entering Limehouse +from its own place. At the far end of that opening in the wall was +nothing. I stood on an invisible wooden platform and looked into +nothing with no belief that a voyage could begin from there. Before me +then should have been the Thames, at the top of the flood tide. It was +not seen. There was only a black void dividing some clusters of +brilliant but remote and diminished lights. There were odd stars which +detached themselves from the fixed clusters, and moved in the void, +sounding the profundity of the chasm beneath them with lines of +trembling fire. Such a wandering comet drifted near where I stood on +the verge of nothing, and then it was plain that its trail of quivering +light did not sound, but floated and undulated on a travelling +road--that chasm before me was black because it was filled with fluid +night. Night, I discovered suddenly, was in irresistible movement. It +was swift and heavy. It was unconfined. It was welling higher to +douse our feeble glims and to founder London, built of shadows on its +boundary. It moved with frightful quietness. It seemed confident of +its power. It swirled and eddied by the piles of the wharf, and there +it found a voice, though that was muffled; yet now and then it broke +into levity for a moment, as at some shrouded and alien jest. + +There were sounds which reached me at last from the opposite shore, +faint with distance and terror. The warning from an unseen steamer +going out was as if a soul, crossing this Styx, now knew all. There is +no London on the Thames, after sundown. Most of us know very little of +the River by day. It might then be no more native to our capital than +the Orientals who stand under the Limehouse gas lamps at night. It +surprises us. We turn and look at it from our seat in a tram, and +watch a barge going down on the ebb--it luckily misses the piers of +Blackfriars Bridge--as if a door had unexpectedly opened on a mystery, +revealing another world in London, and another sort of life than ours. +It is as uncanny as if we had sensed another dimension of space. The +tram gets among the buildings again, and we are reassured by the +confined and arid life we know. But what a light and width had that +surprising world where we saw a barge drifting as leisurely as though +the narrow limits which we call reality were there unknown! + +But after dark there is not only no River, when you stand where by day +is its foreshore; there is no London. Then, looking out from +Limehouse, you might be the only surviving memory of a city that has +vanished. You might be solitary among the unsubstantial shades, for +about you are only comets passing through space, and inscrutable +shapes; your neighbours are Cassiopeia and the Great Bear. + +But where was our barge, the _Lizzie_? I became aware abruptly of the +skipper of this ship for our midnight voyage among the stars. He had +his coat-collar raised. The _Lizzie_, he said, was now free of the +mud, and he was going to push off. Sitting on a bollard, and pulling +out his tobacco-pouch, he said he hadn't had her out before. Sorry +he'd got to do it now. She was a bitch. She bucked her other man +overboard three days ago. They hadn't found him yet. They found her +down by Gallions Reach. Jack Jones was the other chap. Old Rarzo they +called him. Took more than a little to give him that colour. But he +was All Right. They were going to give a benefit concert for his wife +and kids. Jack's brother was going to sing; good as Harry Lauder, he +is. + +Below us a swirl of water broke into mirth, instantly suppressed. We +could see the _Lizzie_ now. The ripples slipped round her to the tune +of they-'avn't-found-'im-yet, they-'avn't-found-'im-yet-they 'avn't. +The skipper and crew rose, fumbling at his feet for a rope. There did +not seem to be much of the _Lizzie_. She was but a little raft to +drift out on those tides which move among the stars. "Now's your +chance," said her crew, and I took it, on all fours. The last remnant +of London was then pushed from us with a pole. We were launched on +night, which had begun its ebb towards morning. + +The punt sidled away obliquely for mid-stream. I stood at one end of +it. The figure of Charon could be seen at the other, of long +acquaintance with this passage, using his sweep with the indifference +of habitude. Perhaps it was not Charon. Yet there was some +obstruction to the belief that we were bound for no more than the +steamer _Aldebaran_, anchored in Bugsby's Reach. From the low deck of +the barge it was surprising that the River, whose name was Night, was +content with the height to which it had risen. Perhaps it was taking +its time. It might soon receive an influx from space, rise then in a +silent upheaval, and those low shadows that were London, even now half +foundered, would at once go. This darkness was an irresponsible power. +It was the same flood which had sunk Knossos and Memphis. It was +tranquil, indifferent, knowing us not, reckoning us all one with the +Sumerians. They were below it. It had risen above them. Now the time +had come when it was laving the base of London. + +The crew cried out to us that over there was the entrance to the West +India Dock. We knew that place in another life. But should Charon +joke with us? We saw only chaos, in which the beams from a reputed +city glimmered without purpose. + +The shadow of the master of our black barge pulled at his sweep with a +slow confidence that was fearful amid what was sightless and unknown. +His pipe glowed, as with the profanity of an immortal to whom eternity +and infinity are of the usual significance. Then a red and green eye +appeared astern, and there was a steady throbbing as if some monster +were in pursuit of us. A tug shaped near us, drew level, and exposed +with its fires, as it went ahead, a radiant _Lizzie_ on an area of +water that leaped in red flames. The furnace door of the tug was shut, +and at once we were blind. "Hold hard," yelled our skipper, and the +_Lizzie_ slipped into the turmoil of the tug's wake. + +There would be Millwall. The tug and the turmoil had gone. We were +alone again in the beyond. There was no sound now but the water +spattering under our craft, and the fumbling and infrequent splash of +the sweep. Once we heard the miniature bark of a dog, distinct and +fine, as though distance had refined it as well as reduced it. We were +nearly round the loop the River makes about Millwall, and this unknown +region before us was Blackwall Reach by day, and Execution Dock used to +be dead ahead. To the east, over the waters, red light exploded +fan-wise and pulsed on the clouds latent above, giving them momentary +form. It was as though, from the place where it starts, the dawn had +been released too soon, and was at once recalled. "The gas works," +said the skipper. + +Still the slow drift, quite proper to those at large in eternity. But +this, I was told, was the beginning of Bugsby's Reach. It was first a +premonition, then a doubt, and at last a distinct tremor in the +darkness ahead of us. A light appeared, grew nearer, higher, and +brighter, and there was a suspicion of imminent mass. "Watch her," +warned the skipper. Watch what? There was nothing to watch but the +dark and some planets far away, one of them red. The menacing one +still grew higher and brighter. It came at us. A wall instantly +appeared to overhang us, with a funnel and masts above it, and our +skipper's yell was lost in the thunder of a churning propeller. The +air shuddered, and a siren hooted in the heavens. A long, dark body +seemed minutes going by us, and our skipper's insults were taken in +silence by her superior deck. She left us riotous in her wake, and we +continued our journey dancing our indignation on the uneasy deck of the +_Lizzie_. + +The silent drift recommenced, and we neared a region of unearthly +lights and the smell of sulphur, where aerial skeletons, vast and +black, and columns and towers, alternately glowed and vanished as the +doors of infernal fires were opened and shut. We drew abreast of this +phantom place where names and darkness battled amid gigantic ruin. +Charon spoke. "They're the coal wharves," he said. + +The lights of a steamer rose in the night below the wharves, but it was +our own progress which brought them nearer. She was anchored. We made +out at last her shape, but at first she did not answer our hail. + +"Hullo, _Aldebaran_," once more roared our captain. + +There was no answer. In a minute we should be by her, and too late. + +"Barge ahoy!" came a voice. "Look out for a line." + + + + +III. A Shipping Parish + +What face this shipping parish shows to a stranger I do not know. I +was never a stranger to it. I should suppose it to be a face almost +vacant, perhaps a little conventionally picturesque, for it is grey and +seamed. It might be even an altogether expressionless mask, staring at +nothing. Anyhow, there must be very little to be learned from it, for +those bright young cultured strangers, admirable in their eagerness for +social service, who come and live with us for a time, so that they may +understand the life of the poor, never seem to have made anything of +us. They say they have; they speak even with some amount of assurance, +at places where the problem which is us is examined aloud by confident +politicians and churchfolk. But I think they know well enough that +they always failed to get anywhere near what mind we have. There is a +reason for it, of course. Think of honest and sociable Mary Ann, of +Pottles Rents, E., having been alarmed by the behaviour of good +society, as it is betrayed in the popular picture Press, making odd +calls in Belgravia (the bells for visitors, too), to bring souls to God. + +My parish, to strangers, must be opaque with its indifference. It +stares beyond the interested visitor, in the way the sad and +disillusioned have, to things it supposes a stranger would not +understand if he were told. He has reason, therefore, to say we are +dull. And Dockland, with its life so uniform that it could be an +amorphous mass overflowing a reef of brick cells, I think would be +distressing to a sensitive stranger, and even a little terrifying, as +all that is alive but inexplicable must be. No more conscious purpose +shows in our existence than is seen in the coral polyp. We just go on +increasing and forming more cells. Overlooking our wilderness of tiles +in the rain--we get more than a fair share of rain, or else the sad +quality of wet weather is more noticeable in such a place as ours--it +seems a dismal affair to present for the intelligent labours of mankind +for generations. Could nothing better have been done than that? What +have we been busy about? + +Well, what are people busy about anywhere? Human purpose here has been +as blind and sporadic as it is at Westminster, unrelated to any fixed +star, lucky to fill the need of the day, building without any distant +design, flowing in bulk through the lowest channels that offered. As +elsewhere, it is obstructed by the unrecognized mistakes of its past. +Our part of London, like Kensington or Islington, is but the formless +accretion of countless swarms of life which had no common endeavour; +and so here we are, Time's latest deposit, the vascular stratum of this +area of the earth's rind, a sensitive surface flourishing during its +day on the piled strata of the dead. Yet this is the reef to which I +am connected by tissue and bone. Cut the kind of life you find in +Poplar and I must bleed. I cannot detach myself, and write of it. +Like any other atom, I would show the local dirt, if examined. My hand +moves, not loyally so much as instinctively, to impulses which come +from beneath and so out of a stranger's knowledge; out of my own, too, +largely. + +Is that all? Not quite. Where you, if you came to us, would see but +an unremarkable level of East-Enders, much like other Londoners, with +no past worth recording, and no future likely to be worth a book of +gold, I see, looking to the past, a spectral show of fine ships and +brave affairs, and good men forgotten, or almost forgotten, and moving +among the plainer shades of its foreground some ghosts well known to +me. I think they were what are called failures in life. And turning +from those shades, and their work which went the way of all forgotten +stuff before the inexorable tide of affairs, I look forward from +Poplar, unreasonably hopeful (for so we are made), though this time +into the utter dark, for the morning that shall show us the more +enduring towers of the city of our dreams, the heart of the commune, +the radiant spires of the city that shall be lovelier than that dear +city of Cecrops. + +But for those whose place it is not, memories and dreams can do nothing +to transform it. Dockland would seem to others as any alien town would +seem to me. There is something, though, you must grant us, a heritage +peculiarly ours. Amid our packed tenements, into the dark mass where +poorer London huddles as my shipping parish, are set our docks. +Embayed in the obscurity are those areas of captured day, reservoirs of +light brimmed daily by the tides of the sun, silver mirrors through +which one may leave the dark floor of Poplar for radiant other worlds. +We have our ships and docks, and the River at Blackwall when night and +the flood come together, and walls and roofs which topmasts and funnels +surmount, suggestions of a vagabondage hidden in what seemed so arid a +commonplace desert. These are of first importance. They are our ways +of escape. We are not kept within a division of the map. And Orion, +he strides over our roofs on bright winter nights. We have the +immortals. At the most, your official map sets us only lateral bounds. +The heavens here are as high as elsewhere. Our horizon is beyond our +own limits. In this faithful chronicle of our parish I must tell of +our boundaries as I know them. They are not so narrow as you might +think. Maps cannot be so carefully planned, nor walls built high +enough nor streets confined and strict enough, to hold within limits +our lusty and growing population of thoughts. There is no census you +can take which will give you forewarning of what is growing here, of +the way we increase and expand. Take care. Some day, when we discover +the time has come for it, we shall tell our numbers, and be sure you +will then learn the result. Travelling through our part of the +country, you see but our appearance. You go, and report us casually to +your friends, and forget us. But when you feel the ground moving under +your feet, that will be us. + +From my high window in central Dockland, as from a watch tower, I look +out over a tumbled waste of roofs and chimneys, a volcanic desert, +inhabited only by sparrows and pigeons. Humanity burrows in swarms +below that surface of crags, but only faint cries tell me that the +rocks are caverned and inhabited, that life flows there unseen through +subterranean galleries. Often, when the sunrise over the roofs is +certainly the coming of Aurora, as though then the first illumination +of the sky heralded the veritable dayspring for which we look, and the +gods were nearly here, I have watched for that crust beneath, which +seals the sleepers under, to heave and roll, to burst, and for released +humanity to pour through fractures, from the lower dark, to be renewed +in the fires of the morning. Nothing has happened yet. But I am +confident it would repay society to appoint another watcher when I am +gone, to keep an eye on the place. + +Right below my window there are two ridges running in parallel jags of +chimneys, with a crevasse between them to which I can see no bottom. +But a roadway is there. From an acute angle of the window a cornice +overhangs a sheer fall of cliff. That is as near the ground as can be +got from my outlook. Several superior peaks rise out of the +wilderness, where the churches are; and beyond the puzzling middle +distance, where smoke dissolves all form, loom the dock warehouses, a +continuous range of far dark heights. I have thoughts of a venturesome +and lonely journey by moonlight, in and out of the chimney stacks, and +all the way to the distant mountains. It looks inviting, and possible, +by moonlight. And, indeed, any bright day in summer, from my window, +Dockland with its goblin-like chimneys might be the enchanted country +of a child's dream, where shapes, though inanimate, are watchful and +protean. From that silent world legions of grotesques move out of the +shadows at a touch of sunlight, and then, when you turn on them in +surprise, become thin and vague, either phantoms or smoke, and +dissolve. The freakish light shows in little what happens in the long +run to man's handiwork, for it accelerates the speed of change till +change is fast enough for you to watch a town grow and die. You see +that Dockland is unstable, is in flux, alters in colours and form. I +doubt whether the people below are sensitive to this ironic display on +their roofs. + +My eyes more frequently go to one place in that high country. In that +distant line of warehouses is a break, and there occasionally I see the +masts and spars of a tall ship, and I remember that beyond my dark +horizon of warehouses is the path down which she has come from the +Indies to Blackwall. I said we were not inland. Cassiopeia is in that +direction, and China over there. + +For my outlook is more than the centre of Dockland. I call it the +centre of the world. Our high road is part of the main thoroughfare +from Kensington to Valparaiso. Every wanderer must come this way at +least once in his life. We are the hub whence all roads go to the +circumference. A ship does not go down but we hear the cry of +distress, and the house of a neighbour rocks on the flood and is lost, +casting its people adrift on the blind tides. + +Think of some of our street names--Malabar Street, Amoy Place, Nankin +Street, Pekin Street, Canton Street. And John Company has left its +marks. You pick up hints of the sea here as you pick old shells out of +dunes. We have, still nourishing in a garden, John Company's Chapel of +St. Matthias, a fragment of a time that was, where now the vigorous +commercial life of the Company shows no evidence whatever of its +previous urgent importance. Founded in the time of the Commonwealth as +a symbol for the Company's men who, when in rare moments they looked up +from the engrossing business of their dominant hours, desired a +reminder of the ineffable things beyond ships and cargoes, the Chapel +has survived all the changes which destroyed their ships and scattered +the engrossing business of their working hours into dry matter for +antiquaries. So little do men really change. They always leave their +temples, whether they lived in Poplar or Nineveh. Only the names of +their gods change. The Chapel at Poplar it was then, when this +shipping parish had no docks, and the nearest church was over the +fields to Stepney. Our vessels then lay in the river. We got our +first dock, that of the West India Merchants, at the beginning of last +century. A little later the East India Dock was built by John Company. +Then another phase began to reshape Dockland. There came a time when +the Americans looked in a fair way, sailing ahead fast with the +wonderful clippers Donald McKay was building at Boston, to show us a +tow rope. The best sailers ever launched were those Yankee ships, and +the Thames building yards were working to create the ideal clipper +which should beat them. This really was the last effort of sails, for +steamers were on the seas, and the Americans were actually making +heroic efforts to smother them with canvas. Mr. Green, of Poplar, +worried over those Boston craft, declared we must be first again, and +first we were. But both Boston and Poplar, in their efforts to perfect +an old idea, did not see a crude but conquering notion taking form to +magnify and hasten both commerce and war. + +But they were worth doing, those clippers, and worth remembering. They +sail clear into our day as imperishable memories. They still live, for +they did far more than carry merchandise. When an old mariner speaks +of the days of studding sails it is not the precious freight, the real +purpose of his ships, which animates his face. What we always remember +afterwards is not the thing we did, or tried to do, but the friends who +were about us at the time. But our stately ships themselves, with our +River their home, which gave Poplar's name, wherever they went, a ring +on the counter like a sound guinea, at the most they are now but planks +bearded with sea grass, lost in ocean currents, sighted only by the +albatross. + +Long ago nearly every home in Dockland treasured a lithographic +portrait of one of the beauties, framed and hung where visitors could +see it as soon as they entered the door. Each of us knew one of them, +her runs and her records, the skipper and his fads, the owner and his +prejudice about the last pennyworth of tar. She was not a transporter +to us, an earner of freights, something to which was attached a profit +and loss account and an insurance policy. She had a name. She was a +sentient being, perhaps noble, perhaps wilful; she might have any +quality of character, even malice. I have seen hands laid on her with +affection in dock, when those who knew her were telling me of her ways. + +To few of the newer homes among the later streets of Dockland is that +beautiful lady's portrait known. Here and there it survives, part of +the flotsam which has drifted through the years with grandmother's +sandalwood chest, the last of the rush-bottomed chairs, and the +lacquered tea-caddy. I well remember a room from which such survivals +were saved when the household ship ran on a coffin, and foundered. It +was a front parlour in one of the streets with an Oriental name; which, +I cannot be expected to remember, for when last I was in that room I +was lifted to sit on one of its horsehair chairs, its seat like a +hedgehog, and I was cautioned to sit still. It was rather a long drop +to the floor from a chair for me in those days, and though sitting +still was hard, sliding part of the way would have been much worse. +That was a room for holy days, too, a place for good behaviour, and +boots profaned it. Its door was nearly always shut and locked, and +only the chance formal visit of respect-worthy strangers brought down +its key from the top shelf of the kitchen dresser. That key was seldom +used for relatives, except at Christmas, or when one was dead. The +room was always sombre. Light filtered into it through curtains of +wire gauze, fixed in the window by mahogany frames. Over the door by +which you entered was the picture of an uncle, too young and jolly for +that serious position, I thought then, with his careless neckcloth, and +his cap pulled down over one eye. The gilt moulding was gone from a +corner of the picture--the only flaw in the prim apartment--for once +that portrait fell to the floor, and on the very day, it was guessed, +that his ship must have foundered. + +A round table set on a central thick leg having a three-clawed foot was +in that chamber, covered with a cloth on which was worked a picture +from the story of Ruth. But only puzzling bits of the latter were to +be seen, for on the circumference of the table-cover were books, placed +at precise distances apart, and in the centre was a huge Bible, with a +brass clasp. With many others my name was in the Bible, and my +birthday, and a space left blank for the day of my death. Reflected in +the pier-glass which doubled the room were the portraits in oils of my +grandparents, looking wonderfully young, as you may have noticed is +often the case in people belonging to ancient history, as though, +strangely enough, people were the same in those remote days, except +that they wore different clothes. + +I have often sat on the chair, and when patience had inured me to the +spines of the area I occupied, looked at the reflections in the mirror +of those portraits, for they seemed more distant so, and in a +perspective according to their age, and became really my grandparents, +in a room, properly, of another world, which could be seen, but was +not. A room no one could enter any more. I remember a black sofa, +which smelt of dust, an antimacassar over its head. That sofa would +wake to squeak tales if I stood on it to inspect the model of a ship in +yellow ivory, resting on a wall-bracket above. There were many old +shells in the polished brass fender, some with thick orange lips and +spotted backs; others were spirals of mother-o'-pearl, which took +different colours for every way you held them. You could get the only +sound in the room by putting the shells to your ear. Like the people +of the portraits, it was impossible to believe the shells had ever +lived. The inside of the grate was filled with white paper, and the +trickles of fine black dust which rested in its crevices would start +and run stealthily when people walked in the next room. Over the +looking-glass there hung a pair of immense buffalo horns, with a piece +of curly black hair dividing them which looked like the skin of our +retriever dog. Above the horns was the picture of "The Famous Tea +Clipper _Oberon_, setting her Studding Sails off the Lizard"; but so +high was the print, and so faint--for the picture, too, was old--that +some one grown up had to tell me all about it. + +The clipper _Oberon_ long since sailed to the Isle-of-No-Land-at-All, +and the room in which her picture hung has gone also, like old +Dockland, and is now no more than something remembered. The clipper's +picture went with the wreckage, when the room was strewn, and I expect +in that house today there is a photograph of a steamer with two funnels. + +Nothing conjures back that room so well as the recollection of a +strange odour which fell from it when its door opened, as though +something bodiless passed as we entered. There was never anything in +the room which alone could account for the smell, for it had in it +something of the sofa, which was old and black, and of the lacquered +tea-caddy, within the lid of which was the faint ghost of a principle +indefinably ancient and rare; and there was in it, too, something of +the shells. But you could never find where the smell really came from. +I have tried, and know. A recollection of that strange dusky fragrance +brings back the old room on a summer afternoon, so sombre that the +mahogany sideboard had its own reddish light, so quiet that the clock +could be heard ticking in the next room; time, you could hear, going +leisurely. There would be a long lath of sunlight, numberless atoms +swimming in it, slanting from a corner of the window to brighten a +patch of carpet. Two flies would be hovering under the ceiling. +Sometimes they would dart at a tangent to hover in another place. I +used to wonder what they lived on. You felt secure there, knowing it +was old, but seeing things did not alter, as though the world were +established and content, desiring no new thing. I did not know that +the old house, even then, quiet and still as it seemed, was actually +rocking on the flood of mutable affairs; that its navigator, sick with +anxiety and bewilderment in guiding his home in the years he did not +understand, which his experience had never charted, was sinking +nerveless at his helm. For he heard, when his children did not, the +premonition of breakers in seas having no landmark that he knew; felt +the trend and push of new and inimical forces, and currents that +carried him helpless, whither he would not go, but must, heartbroken, +into the uproar and welter of the modern. + +I have been told that London east of the Tower has no history worth +mentioning, and it is true that sixteenth-century prints show the town +to finish just where the Dock of St. Katherine is now. Beyond that, +and only marshes show, with Stebonhithe Church and a few other signs to +mark recognizable country. On the south side the marshes were very +extensive, stretching from the River inland for a considerable +distance. The north shore was fen also, but a little above the tides +was a low eminence, a clay and gravel cliff, that sea-wall which now +begins below the Albert Dock and continues round the East Anglian +seaboard. Once it serpentined as far as the upper Pool, disappearing +as the wharves and docks were built to accommodate London's increasing +commerce. There is no doubt, then, that the Lower Thames parishes are +really young; but, when we are reminded that they have no history worth +mentioning, it may be understood that the historian is simply not +interested enough to mention it. + +So far as age goes my shipping parish cannot compare with a cathedral +city; but antiquity is not the same as richness of experience. One +remembers the historic and venerable tortoise. He is old enough, +compared with us. But he has had nothing so varied and lively as the +least of us can show. Most of his reputed three hundred years is +sleep, no doubt, and the rest vegetables. In the experience of +Wapping, Poplar, Rotherhithe, Limehouse, and Deptford, when they really +came to life, there was precious little sleep, and no vegetables worth +mentioning. They were quick and lusty. There they stood, long +knee-deep and busy among their fleets, sometimes rising to cheer when a +greater adventure was sailing or returning, some expedition that was +off to find further avenues through the Orient or the Americas, or else +a broken craft bringing back tragedy from the Arctic; ship after ship; +great captain after great captain. No history worth mentioning! There +are Londoners who cannot taste the salt. Yet, no doubt, it is +difficult for younger London to get the ocean within its horizon. The +memory of the _Oberon_, that famous ship, is significant to me, for she +has gone, with all her fleet, and some say she took Poplar's best with +her. Once we were a famous shipping parish. Now we are but part of +the East End of London. The steamers have changed us. The tides do +not rise high enough today, and our shallow waters cannot make home for +the new keels. + +But to the old home now the last of the sailing fleet is loyal. We +have enough still to show what once was there; the soft gradations of a +ship's entrance, rising into bows and bowsprit, like the form of a +comber at its limit, just before it leaps forward in collapse. The +mounting spars, alive and braced. The swoop and lift of the sheer, the +rich and audacious colours, the strange flags and foreign names. South +Sea schooner, whaling barque from Hudson's Bay, the mahogany ship from +Honduras, the fine ships and barques that still load for the antipodes +and 'Frisco. Every season they diminish, but some are still with us. +At Tilbury, where the modern liners are, you get wall sides mounting +like great hotels with tier on tier of decks, and funnels soaring high +to dominate the day. There the prospect of masts is a line of derrick +poles. But still in the upper docks is what will soon have gone for +ever from London, a dark haze of spars and rigging, with sometimes a +white sail floating in it like a cloud. We had a Russian barquentine +there yesterday. I think a barquentine is the most beautiful of ships, +the most aerial and graceful of rigs, the foremast with its transverse +spars giving breadth and balance, and steadying the unhindered lift +skywards of main and mizzen poles. The model of this Russian ship was +as memorable as a Greek statue. It is a ship's sheer which gives +loveliness to her model, like the waist of a lissom woman, finely +poised, sure of herself, in profile. She was so slight a body, so tall +and slender, but standing alert and illustriously posed, there was +implied in her slenderness a rare strength and swiftness. And to her +beauty of line there went a richness of colour which made our dull +parish a notable place. She was of wood, painted white. Her masts +were of pine, veined with amber. Her white hull, with the drenchings +of the seas, had become shot with ultramarine shadows, as though +tinctured with the virtue of the ocean. The verdigris of her sheathing +was vivid as green light; and the languid dock water, the colour of +jade, glinting round her hull, was lambent with hues not its own. You +could believe there was a soft radiation from that ship's sides which +fired the water about her, but faded when far from her sides, a +delicate and faery light which soon expired. + +Such are our distinguished visitors in Dockland, though now they come +to us with less frequency. If the skipper of the _Oberon_ could now +look down the Dock Road from the corner by North Street, what he would +look for first would be, not, I am sure, what compelled the electric +trams, but for the entrance of the East Dock and its familiar tangle of +spars. He would not find it. The old dock is there, but a lagoon +asleep, and but few vessels sleeping with it. The quays are vacant, +except for the discarded lumber of ships, sun-dried boats, rusted +cables and anchors, and a pile of broken davits. The older dock of the +West India Merchants is almost the same. Yet even I have seen the +bowsprits and jib-booms of the Australian packets diminish down the +quays of the East Dock as an arcade; and of that West Dock there is a +boy who well remembers its quays buried under the largess of the +tropics and the Spanish Main, where now, through the colonnades of its +warehouse supports, the vistas are empty. Once you had to squeeze +sideways through the stacked merchandise. There were huge hogsheads of +sugar and hillocks of coconuts. Molasses and honey escaped to spread a +viscid carpet which held your feet. The casual prodigality of it +expanded the mind. Certainly this earth must be a big and cheerful +place if it could spread its treasures thus wide and deep in a public +place under the sky. It corrected the impression got from the retail +shops for any penniless youngster, with that pungent odour of sugar +crushed under foot, with its libations of syrup poured from the plenty +of the sunny isles. Today the quays are bare and deserted, and grass +rims the stones of the footway, as verdure does the neglected stone +covers in a churchyard. In the dusk of a winter evening the high and +silent warehouses which enclose the mirrors of water enclose too an +accentuation of the dusk. The water might be evaporating in shadows. +The hulls of the few ships, moored beside the walls, become absorbed in +the dark. Night withdraws their substance. What the solitary wayfarer +sees then is the incorporeal presentment of ships. Dockland expires. +The living and sounding day is elsewhere, lighting the new things on +which the young are working. Here is the past, deep in the obscurity +from which time has taken the sun, where only memory can go, and sees +but the ineffaceable impression of what once was there. + +There is a notable building in our Dock Road, the Board of Trade +offices, retired a little way from the traffic behind a screen of plane +trees. Not much more than its parapet appears behind the foliage. By +those offices, on fine evenings, I find one of our ancients, Captain +Tom Bowline. Why he favours the road there I do not know. It would be +a reasonable reason, but occult. The electric trams and motor buses +annoy him. And not one of the young stokers and deck-hands just ashore +and paid off, or else waiting at a likely corner for news of a ship, +could possibly know the skipper and his honourable records. They do +not know that once, in that office, Tom was a famous and respected +figure. There he stands at times, outside the place which knew him +well, but has forgotten him, wearing his immemorial reefer jacket, his +notorious tall white hat and his humorous trousers--short, round, +substantial columns--with a broad line of braid down each leg. + +His face is weather-stained still, and though his hair is white, it has +the form of its early black and abundant vitality. As long ago as 1885 +he landed from his last ship, and has been with us since, watching the +landmarks go. "The sea," he said to me once, "the sea has gone. When +I look down this road and see it so empty--(the simple truth is it was +noisy with traffic)--I feel I've overstayed my time allowance. My +ships are firewood and wreckage, my owners are only funny portraits in +offices that run ten-thousand-ton steamers, and the boys are bones. +Poplar? This isn't Poplar. I feel like Robinson Crusoe--only I can't +find a footprint in the place." + +It is for the young to remember there is no decay, though change, +sometimes called progress, resembles it, especially when your work is +finished and you are only waiting and looking on. When Captain Tom is +in that mood we go to smoke a pipe at a dockhead. It will be high tide +if we are in luck, and the sun will be going down to give our River +majesty, and a steamer will be backing into the stream, outward bound. +The quiet of a fine evening for Tom, and the great business of ships +and the sea for me. We see the steamer's captain and its pilot leaning +over the bridge, looking aft towards the River. I think the size of +their vessel is a little awful to Tom. He never had to guide so many +thousand tons of steel and cargo into a crowded waterway. But those +two young fellows above know nothing of the change; they came with it. +They are under their spell, thinking their world, as once Tom did his, +established and permanent. They are keeping easy pace with the +movement, and so do not know of it. Tom, now at rest, sitting on a +pierhead bollard, sees the world leaving him, going ahead past his +cogitating tobacco smoke. Let it go. We, watching quietly from our +place on the pier-head, are wiser than the moving world in one respect. +We know it does not know whence it is moving, nor why. Well, perhaps +its presiding god, who is determined the world shall go round, would be +foolish to tell us. + +The sun has dropped behind the black serration of the western city. +Now the River with all the lower world loses substance, becomes +vaporous and unreal. Moving so fast then? But the definite sky +remains, a hard dome of glowing saffron based on thin girders of iron +clouds. The heaven alone is trite and plain. The wharves, the +factories, the ships, the docks, all the material evidence of hope and +industry, merge into a dim spectral show in which a few lights burn, +fumbling with ineffectual beams in dissolution. Out on the River a +dark body moves past; it has bright eyes, and hoots dismally as it goes. + +There is a hush, as though at sunset the world had really resolved, and +had stopped moving. But from the waiting steamer looming over us, a +gigantic and portentous bulk, a thin wisp of steam hums from a pipe, +and hangs across the vessel, a white wraith. Yet the hum of the steam +is too subdued a sound in the palpable and oppressive dusk to be +significant. Then a boatswain's pipe rends the heavy dark like the +gleam of a sword, and a great voice, awed by nothing, roars from the +steamer's bridge. There is a sudden commotion, we hear the voice +again, and answering cries, and by us, towards the black chasm of the +River in which hover groups of moving planets, the mass of the steamer +glides, its pale funnel mounting over us like a column. Out she goes, +turning broadside on, a shadow sprinkled with stars, then makes slow +way down stream, a travelling constellation occulting one after another +all the fixed lights. + +Captain Tom knocks out his pipe on the heel of his boot, his eyes still +on the lights of the steamer. "Well," says Tom, "they can still do it. +They don't want any help old Tom could give aboard her. A good man +there. Where's she bound for, I wonder?" + +Now who could tell him that? What a question to ask me. Did Tom ever +know his real destination? Not he! And have I not watched Dockland +itself in movement under the sun, easily mobile, from my window in its +midst? Whither was it bound? Why should the old master mariner expect +the young to answer that? He is a lucky navigator who always finds his +sky quite clear, and can set his course by the signs of unclouded +heavenly bodies, and so is sure of the port to which his steering will +take him. + + + + +IV. The Heart's Desire. + +If the evening was one of those which seem longer than usual but still +have far to go, it was once a custom in Millwall to find a pair of +boots of which it could be claimed that it was time they were mended, +and to carry the artful parcel around to Mr. Pascoe. His cobbler's +shop was in a street that had the look of having retired from the hurry +and press of London, aged, dispirited, and indifferent even to its +defeat, and of waiting vacantly for what must come to elderly and +shabby despondence. Each grey house in the street was distinguished +but by its number and the ornament which showed between the muslin +curtains of its parlour window. The home of the Jones's had a +geranium, and so was different from one neighbour with a ship's model +in gypsum, and from the other whose sign was a faded photograph askew +in its frame. On warm evenings some of the women would be sitting on +their doorsteps, watching with dull faces their children at play, as if +experience had told them more than they wanted to know, but that they +had nothing to say about it. Beyond this street there was emptiness. +It ended, literally, on a blind wall. It was easy for a wayfarer to +feel in that street that its life was caught. It was secluded from the +main stream, and its children were a lively yet merely revolving eddy. +They could not get out. When I first visited Mr. Pascoe, as there was +no window ornament to distinguish his place from the others, and his +number was missing, I made a mistake, and went next door. Through a +hole drilled in that wrong door a length of cord was pendant, with a +greasy knot at its end. Underneath the knot was chalked "Pull." I +pulled. The door opened on a mass of enclosed night. From the street +it was hard to see what was there, so I went inside. What was there +might have been a cavern--narrow, obscure, and dangerous with dim +obstructions. Some of the shadows were darker than others, because the +cave ended, far-off, on a port-light, a small square of day framed in +black. Empty space was luminous beyond that cave. Becoming used to +the gloom I saw chains and cordage hanging from the unseen roof. What +was faintly like the prow of a boat shaped near. Then out from the +lumber and suggestions of things a gnome approached me. "Y' want ole +Pascoe? Nex' dore, guv'nor!" At that moment, in the square of bright +day at the end of the darkness, the apparition of a ship silently +appeared, and was gone again before my surprise. That open space +beyond was London River. + +Next door, in a small room to which day and night were the same, Mr. +Pascoe was always to be found bending over his hobbing foot, under a +tiny yellow fan of gaslight which could be heard making a tenuous +shrilling whenever the bootmaker looked up, and ceased riveting. When +his head was bent over his task only the crown of a red and matured +cricketing cap, which nodded in time to his hammer, was presented to +you. When he paused to speak, and glanced up, he showed a face that +the gas jet, with the aid of many secluded years, had tinctured with +its own artificial hue, a face puckered through a long frowning intent +on old boots. He wore an apron that had ragged gaps in it. He was a +frail and dingy little man, and might never have had a mother, but +could have been born of that dusty workroom, to which he had been a +faithful son all his life. It was a murky interior shut in from the +day, a litter of petty tools and nameless rubbish on a ruinous bench, a +disorder of dilapidated boots, that mean gas jet, a smell of leather; +and there old Pascoe's hammer defiantly and rapidly attacked its +circumstances, driving home at times, and all unseen, more than those +rivets. If he rose to rake over his bench for material or a tool, he +went spryly, aided by a stick, but at every step his body heeled over +because one leg was shorter than the other. Having found what he +wanted he would wheel round, with a strange agility that was apparently +a consequence of his deformity, continuing his discourse, and driving +his points into the air with his hammer, and so hobble back, still +talking; still talking through his funny cap, as his neighbours used to +say of him. At times he convoluted aerial designs and free ideas with +his hammer, spending it aloft on matters superior to boots. The boots +were never noticed. Pascoe could revivify his dust. The glitter of +his spectacles when he looked up might have been the sparkling of an +ardent vitality suppressed in his little body. + +The wall space of his room was stratified with shelves, where half-seen +bottles and nondescript lumps were to be guessed at, like fossils +embedded in shadow. They had never been moved, and they never would +be. Hanging from a nail on one shelf was a framed lithograph of the +ship _Euterpe_, off S. Catherine's Point, July 21, 1849. On the shelf +below the picture was a row of books. I never saw Pascoe look at them, +and they could have been like the bottles, retained by a careful man +because of the notion that some day they would come in handy. Once, +when waiting for Pascoe, who was out getting a little beer, I glanced +at the volumes, and supposed they bore some relation to the picture of +the ship; perhaps once they had been owned by that legendary brother of +Pascoe's, a sailor, of whom I had had a misty apprehension. It would +be difficult to say there had been a direct word about him. There were +manuals on navigation, seamanship, and ship-building, all of them +curiosities, in these later days, rather than expert guides. They were +full of marginal notes, and were not so dusty as I had expected to find +them. The rest of the books were of journeys in Central America and +Mexico: _Three Years in Guatemala_; _The Buried Cities of Yucatan_; +_Scenes on the Mosquito Coast_; _A Voyage to Honduras_. There was more +of it, and of that sort. They were by authors long forgotten; but +those books, too, looked as though they were often in use. Certainly +they could not be classed with the old glue-pots and the lumber. + +It was long after my first visit to Pascoe that he referred to those +books. "Somebody told me," he said one evening, while offering me a +share of his beer, "that you have been to the American tropics." + +I told him I could say I had been, but little more. I said it was a +very big world. + +"Yes," he said, after a pause: "and what a world. Think of those +buried cities in Yucatan--lost in the forest, temples and gods and +everything. Men and women there, once upon a time, thinking they were +a fine people, the only great people, with a king and princesses and +priests who made out they knew the mysteries, and what God was up to. +And there were processions of girls with fruit and flowers on +feast-days, and soldiers in gold armour. All gone, even their big +notions. Their god hasn't got even a name now. Have you ever read the +_Companions of Columbus_?" + +I was as surprised as though one of his dim bottles in the shadows had +suddenly glowed before my eyes, become magical with moving opalescence. +What right had old Pascoe to be staring like that to the land and +romance of the Toltecs? I had been under the impression that he read +nothing but the Bible and _Progress and Poverty_. There was a +biography of Bradlaugh, too, which he would quote copiously, and his +spectacles used fairly to scintillate over that, and his yellow face to +acquire a new set of cunning and ironic puckers; for I believe he +thought, when he quoted Bradlaugh--whose name was nearly all I knew of +that famous man--that he was becoming extremely modern, and a little +too strong for my conventional and sensitive mind. But here he was, +telling of Incas, Aztecs, and Toltecs, of buried cities, of forgotten +treasures, though mainly of the mind, of Montezuma, of the quetzal +bird, and of the vanished splendour of nations that are now but a few +weathered stones. It was the forlorn stones, lost in an uninhabited +wilderness, to which he constantly returned. A brother of his, who had +been there, perhaps had dropped a word once into Pascoe's ear while his +accustomed weapon was uplifted over a dock-labourer's boot-heel, and +this was what that word had done. Pascoe, with a sort of symbolic +gesture, rose from his bobbing foot before me, tore the shoe from it, +flung it contemptuously on the floor, and approached me with a +flamboyant hammer. + +And that evening I feared for a moment that Pascoe was spoiled for me. +He had admitted me to a close view of some secret treasured charms of +his memory, and believing that I was not uninterested, now, of course, +he would be always displaying, for the ease of his soul, supposing we +had a fellowship and a bond, his fascinating quetzals and Toltecs. Yet +I never heard any more about them. There was another subject though, +quite homely, seeing where we both lived, and equally absorbing for us +both. He knew our local history, as far as our ships and house-flags +were concerned, from John Company's fleet to the _Macquarie_. He knew, +by reputation, many of our contemporary master mariners. He knew, and +how he had learned it was as great a wonder as though he spoke Chinese, +a fair measure of naval architecture. He could discuss ships' models +as some men would Greek drama. He would enter into the comparative +merits of rig suitable for small cruising craft with a particularity +which, now and then, gave me a feeling almost akin to alarm; because in +a man of Pascoe's years this fond insistence on the best furniture for +one's own little ship went beyond fair interest, and became the +day-dreaming of romantic and rebellious youth. At that point he was +beyond my depth. I had forgotten long ago, though but half Pascoe's +age, what my ship was to be like, when I got her at last. Knowing she +would never be seen at her moorings, I had, in a manner of speaking, +posted her as a missing ship. + +One day I met at his door the barge-builder into whose cavernous loft I +had stumbled on my first visit to Pascoe. He said it was a fine +afternoon. He invited me in to inspect a figure-head he had purchased. +"How's the old 'un?" he asked, jerking a thumb towards the bootmaker's. +Then, with some amused winking and crafty tilting of his chin, he +signed to me to follow him along his loft. He led me clean through the +port-light of his cave, and down a length of steps outside to his yard +on the foreshore of the Thames, where, among his barges hauled up for +repairs, he paused by a formless shape covered by tarpaulins. + +"I've seen a few things in the way of boats, but this 'ere's a--well, +what do you make of it?" He pulled the tarpaulin back, and disclosed a +vessel whose hull was nearing completion. I did not ask if it was +Pascoe's work. It was such an amusing and pathetic surprise, that, +with the barge-builder's leering face turned to me waiting for my +guess, there was no need to answer. "He reckons," said the +barge-builder, "that he can do a bit of cruising about the mouth of the +Thames in that. 'Bout all she wants now is to have a mast fitted, and +to keep the water out, and she'll do." He chuckled grimly. Her lines +were crude, and she had been built up, you could see, as Pascoe came +across timber that was anywhere near being possible. Her strakes were +a patchwork of various kinds of wood, though when she was tarred their +diversity would be hidden from all but the searching of the elements. +It was astonishing that Pascoe had done so well. It was still more +astonishing that he should think it would serve. + +"I've given him a hand with it," remarked the barge-builder, "an' more +advice than the old 'un 'ud take. But I dessay 'e could potter about +with the dam' tub round about as far as Canvey, if 'e keeps it out of +the wash of the steamers. He's been at this job two years now, and I +shan't be sorry to see my yard shut of it. . . . Must humour the old +boy, though. . . . Nigglin' job, mending boots, I reckon. If I mended +boots, I'd 'ave to let orf steam summow. Or go on the booze." + +I felt hurt that Pascoe had not taken me into his confidence, and that +his ship, so far as I was concerned, did not exist. One Saturday +evening, when I called, his room was in darkness. Striking a match, +there was his apron shrouding his hobbing foot. This had never +happened before, and I turned into the barge-builder's. The proprietor +there faced me silently for a moment, treasuring a jest he was going to +give me when I was sufficiently impatient for it. "Come to see whether +your boots are done? Well, they ain't. Pascoe's gone. Christened his +boat this morning, and pushed off. Gone for a trial trip. Gone down +river." + +"Good Lord," I said, or something of the sort. + +"Yes," continued the barge-builder, luxuriating in it, "and I've often +wondered what name he'd give her, and he done it this morning, in gold +leaf. D'yer remember what she looked like? All right. Well, 'er name +is the _Heart's Desire_, and her skipper will be back soon, if she +don't fall apart too far off." + +Her skipper was not back soon, nor that day. We had no news of him the +next day. A few women were in his workshop, when I called, hunting +about for footwear that should have been repaired and returned, but was +not. "'Ere they are," cried one. "'Ere's young Bill's boots, and +nothing done to 'em. The silly old fool. Why didn't 'e tell me 'e was +going to sea? 'Ow's young Bill to go to school on Monday now?" The +others found their boots, all urgently wanted, and all as they were +when Pascoe got them. A commination began of light-minded cripples who +took in young and innocent boots, promising them all things, and then +treacherously abandoned them, to do God knew what; and so I left. + +This became serious; for old Pascoe, with his _Heart's Desire_, had +vanished, like his Toltecs. A week went by. The barge-builder, for +whom this had now ceased to be a joke, was vastly troubled by the +complete disappearance of his neighbour, and shook his head over it. +Then a few lines in an evening paper, from a port on the Devon coast, +looked promising, though what they wished to convey was not quite +clear, for it was a humorous paragraph. But the evidence was strong +enough for me, and on behalf of the barge-builder and a few others I +went at once to that west-coast harbour. + +It was late at night when I arrived, and bewildering with rain, total +darkness, and an upheaval of cobbles in by-ways that wandered to no +known purpose. But a guide presently brought me to a providential +window, and quarters in the _Turk's Head_. In my room I could hear a +continuous murmuring, no doubt from the saloon bar below, and +occasional rounds of hearty merriment. That would be the place for +news, and I went down to get it. An oil-lamp veiled in tobacco smoke +was hanging from a beam of a sooty ceiling. A congregation of +longshoremen, visible in the blue mist and smoky light chiefly because +of their pink masks, was packed on benches round the walls. They +laughed aloud again as I went in. They were regarding with indulgent +interest and a little shy respect an elegant figure overlooking them, +and posed negligently against the bar, on the other side of which +rested the large bust of a laughing barmaid. She was as amused as the +men. The figure turned to me as I entered, and stopped its discourse +at once. It ran a hand over its white brow and curly hair with a +gesture of mock despair. "Why, here comes another to share our _Hearts +Desire_. We can't keep the beauty to ourselves." + +It was young Hopkins, known to every reader of the _Morning Despatch_ +for his volatility and omniscience. It was certainly not his business +to allow any place to keep its secrets to itself; indeed, his +reputation including even a capacity for humour, the world was +frequently delighted with more than the place itself knew even in +secret. Other correspondents from London were also in the room. I saw +them vaguely when Hopkins indicated their positions with a few graceful +flourishes of his hand. They were lost in Hopkins's assurance of +occupying superiority. They were looking on. "We all got here +yesterday," explained Hopkins. "It's a fine story, not without its +funny touches. And it has come jolly handy in a dull season when +people want cheering up. We have found the Ancient Mariner. He was +off voyaging again but his ship's magic was washed out by heavy +weather. And while beer is more plentiful than news, we hope to keep +London going with some wonders of the deep." + +In the morning, before the correspondents had begun on the next +instalment of their serial story, I saw Pascoe sitting up in a bed at +another inn, his expenses an investment of the newspaper men. He was +unsubdued. He was even exalted. He did not think it strange to see me +there, though it was not difficult to guess that he had his doubts +about the quality of the publicity he had attracted, and of the motive +for the ardent attentions of his new and strange acquaintances from +London. "Don't be hard on me," he begged, "for not telling you more in +London. But you're so cautious and distrustful. I was going to tell +you, but was uncertain what you'd say. Now I've started and you can't +stop me. I've met a man here named Hopkins, who has given me some help +and advice. As soon as my craft is repaired, I'm off again. It was +unlucky to meet that sou'wester in July. But once out of home waters, +I ought to be able to pick up the Portuguese trade wind off Finisterre, +and then I'm good for the Caribbees. I'll do it. She should take no +more than a fortnight to put right." + +There was no need to argue with him. The _Heart's Desire_, a centre of +attraction in the place, answered any doubt I had as to Pascoe's +safety. But he was humoured. Hopkins humoured him, even openly +encouraged him. The Heart's Desire was destined for a great adventure. +The world was kept in anticipation of the second departure for this +strange voyage to Guatemala. The _Heart's Desire_ on the edge of a +ship-repairer's yard, was tinkered, patched, refitted, made as right as +she could be. The ship-repairer, the money for the work made certain +for him, did what he was told, but made no comment, except to +interrogate me curiously when I was about. + +A spring tide, with a southerly wind, brought us to a natural +conclusion. An unexpected lift of the water washed off the _Heart's +Desire_, rolled her about, and left her broken on the mud. I met the +journalists in a group on their way to the afternoon train, their faces +still reflecting the brightness of an excellent entertainment. Hopkins +took me aside. "I've made it right with old Pascoe. He hasn't lost +anything by it, you can be sure of that." But I was looking for the +cobbler, and all I wished to learn was the place where I was likely to +find him. They did not know that. + +Late that evening I was still looking for him, and it had been raining +for hours. The streets of the village were dark and deserted. Passing +one of the many inns, which were the only illumination of the village, +I stumbled over a shadow on the cobbles outside. In the glow of a +match I found Pascoe, drunk, with his necessary stick beside him, +broken. + + + + +V. The Master + +This master of a ship I remember first as a slim lad, with a shy smile, +and large hands that were lonely beyond his outgrown reefer jacket. +His cap was always too small for him, and the soiled frontal badge of +his line became a coloured button beyond his forelock. He used to come +home occasionally--and it was always when we were on the point of +forgetting him altogether. He came with a huge bolster in a cab, as +though out of the past and nowhere. There is a tradition, a book +tradition, that the boy apprenticed to the sea acquires saucy eyes, and +a self-reliance always ready to dare to that bleak extreme the very +thought of which horrifies those who are lawful and cautious. They +know better who live where the ships are. He used to bring his young +shipmates to see us, and they were like himself. Their eyes were +downcast. They showed no self-reliance. Their shyness and politeness, +when the occasion was quite simple, were absurdly incommensurate even +with modesty. Their sisters, not nearly so polite, used to mock them. + +As our own shy lad was never with us for long, his departure being as +abrupt and unannounced as his appearance, we could willingly endure +him. But he was extraneous to the household. He had the impeding +nature of a new and superfluous piece of furniture which is in the way, +yet never knows it, and placidly stays where it is, in its wooden +manner, till it is placed elsewhere. There was a morning when, as he +was leaving the house, during one of his brief visits to his home, I +noticed to my astonishment that he had grown taller than myself. How +had that happened? And where? I had followed him to the door that +morning because, looking down at his cap which he was nervously +handling, he had told me he was going then to an examination. About a +week later he announced, in a casual way, that he had got his masters +ticket. After the first shock of surprise, caused by the fact that +this information was an unexpected warning of our advance in years, we +were amused, and we congratulated him. Naturally he had got his +certificate as master mariner. Why not? Nearly all the mates we knew +got it, sooner or later. That was bound to come. But very soon after +that he gave us a genuine surprise, and made us anxious. He informed +us, as casually, that he had been appointed master to a ship; a very +different matter from merely possessing the licence to command. + +We were even alarmed. This was serious. He could not do it. He was +not the man to make a command for anything. A fellow who, not so long +ago, used to walk a mile with a telegram because he had not the +strength of character to face the lady clerk in the post office round +the corner, was hardly the man to overawe a crowd of hard characters +gathered by chance from Tower Hill, socialize them, and direct them +successfully in subduing the conflicting elements of a difficult +enterprise. Not he. But we said nothing to discourage him. + +Of course, he was a delightful fellow. He often amused us, and he did +not always know why. He was frank, he was gentle, but that large +vacancy, the sea, where he had spent most of his young life, had made +him--well, slow. You know what I mean. He was curiously innocent of +those dangers of great cities which are nothing to us because we know +they are there. Yet he was always on the alert for thieves and +parasites. I think he enjoyed his belief in their crafty omnipresence +ashore. Proud of his alert and knowing intelligence, he would relate a +long story of the way he had not only frustrated an artful shark, but +had enjoyed the process in perfect safety. That we, who rarely went +out of London, never had such adventures, did not strike him as worth a +thought or two. He never paused in his merriment to consider the +strange fact that to him, alone of our household, such wayside +adventures fell. With a shrewd air he would inform us that he was +about to put the savings of a voyage into an advertised trap which a +country parson would have stepped over without a second contemptuous +glance, + +He took his ship away. The affair was not discussed at home, though +each of us gave it some private despondency. We followed him silently, +apprehensively, through the reports in the _Shipping Gazette_. He made +point after point safely--St. Vincent, Gibraltar, Suez, Aden--after him +we went across to Colombo, Singapore, and at length we learned that he +was safe at Batavia. He had got that steamer out all right. He got +her home again, too. After his first adventure as master he made +voyage after voyage with no more excitement in them than you would find +in Sunday walks in a suburb. It was plain luck; or else navigation and +seamanship were greatly overrated arts. + +A day came when he invited me to go with him part of his voyage. I +could leave the ship at Bordeaux. I went. You must remember that we +had never seen his ship. And there he was, walking with me to the dock +from a Welsh railway station, a man in a cheap mackintosh, with an +umbrella I will not describe, and he was carrying a brown paper parcel. +He was appropriately crowned with a bowler hat several sizes too small +for him. Glancing up at his profile, I actually wondered whether the +turmoil was now going on in his mind over that confession which now he +was bound to make; that he was not the master of a ship, and never had +been. + +There she was, a bulky modern freighter, full of derricks and +time-saving appliances, and her funnel lording it over the +neighbourhood. The man with the parcel under his arm led me up the +gangway. I was not yet convinced. I was, indeed, less sure than ever +that he could be the master of this huge community of engines and men. +He did not accord with it. + +We were no sooner on deck than a man in uniform, grey-haired, with a +seamed and resolute face, which any one would have recognized at once +as a sailor's, approached us. He was introduced as the chief officer. +He had a tale of woe: trouble with the dockmaster, with the stevedores, +with the cargo, with many things. He did not appear to know what to do +with them. He was asking this boy of ours. + +The skipper began to speak. At that moment I was gazing at the funnel, +trying to decipher a monogram upon it; but I heard a new voice, rapid +and incisive, sure of its subject, resolving doubts, and making the +crooked straight. It was the man with the brown paper parcel. That +was still under his arm--in fact, the parcel contained pink pyjamas, +and there was hardly enough paper. The respect of the mate was not +lessened by this. + +The skipper went to gaze down a hatchway. He walked to the other side +of the ship, and inspected something there. Conned her length, called +up in a friendly but authoritative way to an engineer standing by an +amid-ship rail above. He came back to the mate, and with an easy +precision directed his will on others, through his deputy, up to the +time of sailing. He beckoned to me, who also, apparently, was under +his august orders, and turned, as though perfectly aware that in this +place I should follow him meekly, in full obedience. + +Our steamer moved out at midnight, in a drive of wind and rain. There +were bewildering and unrelated lights about us. Peremptory challenges +were shouted to us from nowhere. Sirens blared out of dark voids. And +there was the skipper on the bridge, the lad who caused us amusement at +home, with this confusion in the dark about him, and an immense +insentient mass moving with him at his will; and he had his hands in +his pockets, and turned to tell me what a cold night it was. The +pier-head searchlight showed his face, alert, serene, with his brows +knitted in a little frown, and his underlip projecting as the sign of +the pride of those who look direct into the eyes of an opponent, and +care not at all. In my berth that night I searched for a moral for +this narrative, but went to sleep before I found it. + +VI. The Ship-Runners + +1 + +The _Negro Boy_ tavern is known by few people in its own parish, for it +is a house with nothing about it to distinguish its fame to those who do +not know that a man may say to his friend, when their ships go different +ways out of Callao, "I may meet you at the _Negro Boy_ some day." It is +in a road which returns to the same point, or near to it, after a +fatiguing circuit of the Isle of Dogs. No part of the road is better +than the rest. It is merely a long road. That day when I first heard of +Bill Purdy I was going to the tavern hoping to meet Macandrew, Chief of +the _Medea_. His ship was in again. But there was nobody about. There +was nothing in sight but the walls, old, sad, and discreet, of the yards +where ships are repaired. The dock warehouses opposite the tavern +offered me their high backs in a severer and apparently an endless +obduracy. The _Negro Boy_, as usual, was lost and forlorn, but resigned +to its seclusion from the London that lives, having stood there long +enough to learn that nothing can control the ways of changing custom. +Its windows were modest and prim in green curtains. Its only adornment +was the picture, above its principal door, of what once was a negro boy. +This picture now was weathered into a faded plum-coloured suit and a pair +of silver shoe-buckles--there was nothing left of the boy himself but the +whites of his eyes. The tavern is placed where men moving in the new +ways of a busy and adventurous world would not see it, for they would not +be there. Its dog Ching was asleep on the mat of the portico to the +saloon bar; a Chinese animal, in colour and mane resembling a lion whose +dignity has become sullenness through diminution. He could doze there +all day, and never scare away a chance customer. None would come. But +men who had learned to find him there through continuing to trade to the +opposite dock, would address him with some familiar and insulting words, +and stride over him. + +The tavern is near one of the wicket gates of the irregular intrusion +into the city of a maze of dock basins, a gate giving those who know the +district a short cut home from the ships and quays; the tavern was sited +not altogether without design. And there came Macandrew through that +gate, just as I had decided I must try again soon. His second, Hanson, +was with him. They crossed to the public-house, and we stooped over the +yellow lump of Chinese apathy to talk to him, and went through the swing +doors into the saloon. The saloon was excluded from the gaze of the rest +of the house by little swinging screens of frosted glass above the bar, +for that was where old friends of the landlord met, who had known him all +the time their house-flags had been at home in the neighbouring docks; +and perhaps had even sailed with him when be himself went to sea. A +settee in red plush, salvage from the smoke-room of a liner, ran round +the walls, with the very mahogany tables before it which it knew when +afloat. Some men in dingy uniforms and dungarees were at the tables. +Two men I did not know stood leaning over the bar talking confidentially +across it to a woman who was only a laugh, for she was hidden. One of +the men turned from the counter to see who had come in. + +"Hullo Mac," he cried, in a voice hearty with the abandon of one who, +perhaps, had been there long enough; "look here, here's Jessie says she's +going to leave us." + +A woman's hand, spoiled by many heavy rings, moved across the counter and +shook his arm in warning. The youngster merely closed his own hand over +it. "Isn't it hard. Really going to forsake us. Won't mix your whiskey +or uncork my lemonade any more. What are we going to do when we come +home now?" + +There was an impatient muttering beyond him, and he made public a +soothing and exaggerated apology. All the men in the room, even the +group bent over a diagram of a marine engine they had drawn in chalk on +their table, looked up in surprise, first at the youngster who had raised +his voice, and then to watch the tall shadow of a woman pass quickly down +the counter-screen and vanish. Still laughing, the young man, with his +uniform cap worn a little too carelessly, nodded to the company, and went +out with his companion. + +Macandrew stared in contempt at the back of the fellow as he went. "A +nice boy that. Too bright and bonny for my ship. What's that he was +saying about Jessie?" He tried to see where she was, and lowered his +voice. "I know his kind. I saw them together last night, in the Dock +Road. What does she have anything to do with him for? We know her of +course . . . but even then. . . . She's really not a bad sort. She's +like that with all those young dogs. Can't help it, I suppose." + +He moved to the bar, a massive figure, beyond the age of a sea-going +engineer, but still as light on his feet as a girl. "Where's she gone?" +He pushed open one of the little glass screens, and put his petulant +face, with its pale eyes set like aquamarines in bronze, into an opening +too small to frame it. "Can you see her, Hanson?" + +Hanson winked at me, adjusted the spectacles on his nose, and grinned. +With that grin, and his spectacles, he was as surprising as a handsome +gargoyle. His height compelled him to lean forward and to grin downward, +even when speaking to a big man like Macandrew. He turned to his chief +now, and both hands went up to his spectacles. In the way the corners of +his mouth turned up before he spoke, whimsically wrinkling his nose, and +in his intent and amused regard, there was a suggestion of the mockery of +a low immortal for beings who are fated earnestly to frustrate +themselves. His grin gave you the uncomfortable feeling that it was +useless to pretend you were keeping nothing from him. + +"Here goes," said Hanson. "Never mind Jessie. I've got something to +tell you, Chief. I'm leaving you this voyage." + +Macandrew was instantly annoyed. "Going? Dammit, you can't. Look at +the crowd I've got now. You mustn't do it." + +"I must. They are a thin lot, but you could push the old _Medea_ along +with anything. I've got another ship. My reason is very good, from the +way I look at it." + +Hanson turned his grin to me. He was going to enjoy the privilege of +seeing his reasons deemed unreasonable. "Don't think it's a better job +I've got. It's worse. It's a very rummy voyage. We may complete it, +with luck. It's a boat-running lunacy, and some mining gear. She's +called the _Cygnet_. I've been over her, and we shall call her something +different before we see the last of her." + +"Then why are you going?" I asked him. + +"To see what will happen. . . ." + +Macandrew interrupted him. "What? And you next on the list for Chief? +You're romantic, young man, and that means you're no engineer. Is there +a lot of money in it?" + +"There isn't, but there's some life. I want to know what I'm made of. +Shall I ever learn it under you? Down below in the _Medea_ is like +winding up a clock and going to sleep. Do you know the _Cygnet_ has six +inches of freeboard?" He was talking to me, but kept glancing sideways +to see what effect this had on Macandrew. But Macandrew's broad back was +impassive. + +"Six inches of freeboard, barring her false bulwarks of deal boards, and +she's going out to--I forget the name of the place, but I could show you +where it is within a hundred miles on a map that doesn't give its name. +It's up the Pondurucu." + +Macandrew made no sign, and Hanson, his humour a little damped, spoke +more seriously. "I don't think she'll ever get there, but it will be +interesting to see where she stops, and why." + +Macandrew heaved round on his junior. "There's drivel. It sounds well +from an engineer and a mathematician, doesn't it?" He turned away again. +"Supposing," he said, over his shoulder, "supposing you pull this ship +through all right, then where will you be? Any better off?" + +"I think so," said Hanson. He couldn't talk to Macandrew's back, so he +bent over me and pointed a challenging finger at my necktie. "I've never +risked anything yet, not even my job. This is where I do it. It'll be +nice to attempt something when the odds are that you can't finish it, and +there's nothing much in it if you do. Why," he said, grinning at his +Chief's back, "if I were to stay with him I'd become so normal that I'd +slip into marriage and safety as a matter of course, and have to give up +everything." + +"Who's in charge of this lunacy?" asked Macandrew. His voice was a +little truculent. + +"All right, Chief. I shan't remember his name any the better because +you're annoyed with me. I haven't seen the skipper yet. I think I heard +him called Purdy." + +"Purdy? Bill Purdy?" Macandrew was incredulous. "Do you know what +you've let yourself in for? If Purdy's got the job, I know why. Nobody +else would take it, and he's the last man, anyway, who ought to have it." + +"What, drink?" asked Hanson. + +"Lord, no. Not Purdy. No. It's the man himself. I've known him a long +time, and I like him, but he'll never do. He can't make up his mind to a +course. Don't you remember the _Campeachy_ case? I expect it was before +your time. Purdy had her. He was coming up-Channel, and got nervous +over the weather, and put into Portland for a pilot. There was no pilot. +So he decided to put out again and go on. It never occurred to him that +as he was in shelter he'd better stay there till a pilot arrived, because +getting out of that was exactly when he'd want one. He put her ashore. +That was like Purdy, to play for safety and make a wreck. When he got +over the fuss Lloyd's raised about it he refused to take command again +for some time. He couldn't even make up his mind whether he wanted a +ship at all." + +Hanson listened to this with the air of one who was being reassured in a +doubtful enterprise. + +"You mistake me, Chief," he said. "You are only improving my reasons for +going. Not only is the ship crank, but so is her skipper. Now tell me +. . ." + +Macandrew frowned at his junior, and his curiously pale eyes became +distinctly inhuman. I believe he thought his counsel was being laughed +at. But the door opened, and he touched Hanson's arm. A little man of +middle age stood there, who turned, and actually prevented the doors from +swinging together with their usual announcement of another customer. For +only a moment he raised his downcast eyes to see who was there, and then +nodded sadly to Macandrew. His drooping moustache conformed to the +downward lines of his face, which was that of a man who had been long +observing life with understanding, and had not a lively opinion of it. + +Macandrew's demeanour changed. It was now mild and almost affectionate +as he greeted the little man. "Come over here, Purdy, and tell us what +you've been doing. Here's Hanson, this young fellow. I hear he's +sailing with you. He's your Chief. You'd better know him." + +Purdy raised his eyes in a grave and momentary survey, made to shake +hands with Hanson, but hesitated, and did so only because Hanson put out +his own great fist with decision. Purdy did not speak, except to say to +Hanson: "We're signing-on tomorrow. I'll meet you at the shipping office +then." He seemed to forget the pair of them, paused, and went to a far +vacant corner of the bar. The barmaid, as he got there, returned, and +stopped to say something to him. + +"Well, I'm damned," muttered Macandrew. "Look here, Jessie," he cried, +"here's all us young men been waiting for nearly twenty minutes, and you +take no notice of us, but as soon as a captain looks across the counter, +there you are. But how did you know he was a captain? That's what I'd +like to know. He's only wearing a bowler hat." + + +2 + +The _Medea_ had been ordered unexpectedly to Barry for loading, to take +the place of an unready sister-ship; and Macandrew, of whom I have had +much experience, would be active, critical of what a dog must put up with +in life, and altogether unfit for intimate, amiable, and reminiscent +conversation. Yet I wanted to see him again before he left, and went +past the Board of Trade Office hoping for signs of the _Medea_, for I had +heard she was assembling a crew that morning. But the marine-store +shops, with their tarpaulin suits hanging outside open-armed and +oscillating, looked across to the men lounging against the +shipping-office railings, and the idlers stared across at the tarpaulins. +It did not appear to be a place where anything was destined to happen. +It merely looked like rain. + +Macandrew might be inside with his crowd of firemen and greasers. Behind +the brass grille there a clerk, solitary and absorbed in his duties, bent +over a pile of ships' articles, and presented to the seamen in the public +space beyond him only the featureless shine of a bald head. The seamen, +scattered about in groups, shabby and listless, with a few of their +officers among them, were as sombre and subdued as though they had +learned life had nothing more to offer them, and they were present only +because they might as well use up the salvage of their days. The clerk +raised his head and questioned the men before him with a quick, inclusive +glance. "Any men here of the _Cygnet_?" he demanded. His voice, raised +in certainty above the casual murmuring of the repressed, made them all +as self-conscious and furtive as though discovered in guilt. Hanson's +head appeared above the crowd, as he rose from a bench and went to the +official. "I'm the engineer of the _Cygnet_. We're waiting for Captain +Purdy." + +The clerk complained. He pulled out his watch. "He said he would be +ready for me at ten this morning. Now you've lost your turn, and there +are three other ships." He turned away in a manner which told every one +that Hanson had now become non-existent, pushed aside the _Cygnet's_ +papers, and searched the room once more. "Ah, good morning, Captain +Hudson. You ready for me? Then I'll take you next." The captain went +around to stand beside the official, and his crew clustered on their side +of the bars, with their caps in their hands. + +"A good start that," said Hanson to me. "Perhaps, after all, we never +shall start. Must be a rum chap, that Purdy." + +He told me the _Medea's_ crowd was there, but perhaps Macandrew had +already signed, and so would not appear. That meant I might not see him +for another year; but as I left the office I found him coming up its +steps outside, and not as though there were the affairs of a month to be +got into two days, but in leisurely abstraction. He might have been +making up his mind that, after all, there was no need to call there, for +he was studying each step as if he were looking for the bottom of a +mystery. His fingers were twirling the little ivory pig he carries as a +charm on his watchguard. The pig is supposed to assist him when he is in +a difficulty. He raised his eyes. + +"Anyhow," he despaired to me with irrelevance, "I can't do anything for +him." + +I waited for the chance of a clue. "I thought," Macandrew quietly +soliloquized, "he knew better than that. He's been a failure, but all +the same, he's got a better head than most of us. She's sure to bring +him to grief." + +"What's all this about?" I ventured. + +"I've just been talking to Purdy. You remember what Hanson said of that +voyage he's making? Purdy is taking Jessie with him. You don't know +Purdy, but I do. And I know Jessie; but that's nothing." + +"Taking her with him?" I asked; "but how. . . ." + +"Oh, cook, of course. That'll be it. She'll be steward, naturally. +That's reasonable. You've seen her. Jessie's the sort of woman would +jump at the chance of such a pleasant trip, as cook." + +"I don't understand. . . ." + +"Who said you did? Nobody does but the pair of them. I know what +another man might see in Purdy. But a woman! He's middle-aged, quiet, +and looks tired. That woman is young and lively, and she'll be bored to +death with him on such a trip." + +"But I thought you said . . ." + +"What have I said? I've said nothing. Jessie's away to sea as cook. +Why not? I'm going inside. Are you coming in?" + +Crossing the floor of the office, Hanson caught Macandrew's arm. "Your +lot are signing-on now." The master of the _Medea_ was round with the +official tallying the men by the ship's papers. "I see it," Macandrew +answered. "I've signed. I wanted to catch the old man before he began +that job." + +"We're hung up for Purdy," Hanson told him. "Nobody seems to know where +he is." Hanson was amused. + +"Yes. Well . . . he'll be here all right . . . and now this new job +which you think so funny, young Hanson. See it goes through. Presently +it won't be so funny. Hang on to it then." + +Hanson was surprised by this, and a trifle hurt. He was beginning to +speak, making the usual preliminary adjustment of his spectacles, when a +movement near the door checked him. His hands remained at his glasses, +as if aiding his sight to certify the unbelievable. + +"What's this?" he murmured. "Here's Purdy. Isn't that the _Negro Boy's_ +barmaid with him . . . is she with him?" He continued to watch, +apparently for some sign that this coincidence of his captain and a +barmaid in a public office was designed. + +The bent gaze of the master of the _Cygnet_ might have noticed the boots +of his engineer, for he took in the room no higher than that. Then he +came forward with his umbrella, still in contemplation. It might have +been no more than a coincidence. She, too, approached, a little behind +him, but obscuring his dull meagreness, for she was a head taller, and a +bold and challenging figure. Her blond hair distinguished her even more +than the emphasis of her florid hat. Her pallor that morning refined the +indubious coarseness of her face, and changed vulgarity into the +attractive originality of a spirited character. Many there knew her, but +she recognized nobody. She yawned once, in a fair piece of acting, and +in her movements and the poise of her head there was a disdain almost +plain enough to be insolence. Purdy turned to her, and the strange pair +conferred. I heard Hanson say to himself: "What on earth." She left +Purdy, bent her head with a gracious but stressed smile to Macandrew, and +went to the bench by the wall, where she sat, waiting, with her legs +crossed in a way that was a defiance and an attraction in such a place, +where a woman is rarely seen. She read a newspaper, perhaps because that +acted as a screen, though she turned its pages with a nervous abruptness +which betrayed her imitation of indifference. + + +3 + +The _Medea_ and the _Cygnet_, and the other ships I knew which carried +those whose fortunes were some concern of mine, might have sailed over +the edge of the world. My only communication was with an occasional +familiar name in the reports of the _Shipping List_. Then Macandrew came +home again. But it was difficult to meet him. Mrs. Macandrew told me he +was working by his ship in drydock. They had had trouble with the +engines that voyage, and she herself had seen little of him, except to +find him, when she came down of a morning, asleep in the drawing-room. +Just flung himself down in the first place, you know. In those greasy +overalls, too. He had told her the engine-room looked like a scrap-heap, +but the ship had to be ready for sea in ten days. Once he had worked +thirty-two hours on end. Think of that, and he had not been home for six +months. She would strongly advise any girl not to marry a man who went +to sea, and if I met Macandrew I was to bring him home at once. Did I +hear? + +When I found the _Medea_ it was late in the day, for she was not in the +dry-dock that had been named. Her Chief had just gone ashore. There was +a chance that he would have called at the _Negro Boy_, but he had not +been seen there. Except for the landlord, who was at a table talking to +a stranger, the saloon was empty. A silk hat was on the table before the +stranger, beside a tankard, and the hat was surmounted by a pair of +neatly folded kid gloves. "Come over here," said the landlord. "Sit +here for a bit, Macandrew may come in. This is Dr. Maslin." A monocle +fell its length of black cord from the doctor's eye, and he nodded to me. + +"The doctor used to be with me when I was running out East," explained +the landlord. "Where did you say you had come from now, Doctor? Oh, +yes, Tabacol. Funny name. I was never on the South American coast. +After I left you sick at Macassar, the last trip we had together--the old +_Siwalik_--I left the sea to younger men. But there you are, Doctor. +Still at it. Why don't you give it up?" + +The doctor did not answer, except to make a bubbling noise in his +tankard. He placed it on the table again delicately and deliberately, +and wiped his grizzled moustache with a crimson silk handkerchief. He +put up his monocle, and seemed to be intently inspecting a gas globe over +the counter. I thought his grimace in this concentration came from an +effort to reinforce his will against all curiosity on our part. But it +appeared he was really looking at what showed, at an angle, of a portrait +on the wall of an inner room. He could just see it, from where he sat. +Anyhow, the landlord imagined it was the portrait which had caught his +friend's interest. "Looking at that crayon portrait, Doctor? Ah, showy +woman, isn't she? Used to be barmaid here. The Lord knows where she is +now. Went to sea, like a fool. Stewardess, or something worse. Much +more useful here." + +The doctor's seamed face, sour and ironic, made it impossible to know +whether his expression was one of undisguised boredom, or only his show +of conventional politeness. I began to feel I had broken into the +intimacy of two men whose minds were dissimilar, but friendly through old +associations, and that the doctor's finer wit was reproving me for an +intrusion. So I rose, and asked indifferently what sort of a place was +Tabacol. Had he been there before? + +"Never," said the doctor, "nor is it the kind of place one wishes to see +twice. We were kept at Tabacol because so many of our men were down with +fever. It is a little distance up the Pondurucu River . . . maybe two +hundred miles. Did you say. . . ? No. It is not really out of the way. +An ocean steamer calls at Tabacol once a month or six weeks. It is only +on the edge of what romantic people call the unknown." + +It was evident he thought I could be one of the romantic. He looked at +me for the first time, twisting the cord of his eyeglass with his finger +and thumb in a fastidious way, and I thought his glance was to dissipate +some doubt he had that he ought to be speaking to me at all. He dropped +the cord suddenly as if letting go his reserve, and said slyly, with a +grave smile: "Perhaps the romantic think the unknown is worth looking +into because it may be better than what they know. At Tabacol I used to +think the unknown country beyond it looked even duller than usual. There +was a forest, a river, a silence, and it was either day or night. That +was all. If the voice of Nature is the voice of God. . . ." + +The landlord was observing in surprise this conversational excursion by +his old friend, as if it were altogether new to him. He laughed aloud, +and, putting a consoling hand on his friend's shoulder as he rose, he +told us he must leave us for a few minutes, for he had business. "Look +more cheerful before I get back, Doctor." + +The doctor chuckled, and stretched across to give his gloves a more +satisfactory position on his hat. "I don't understand what it can be +that attracts people to such a place. Young men, maybe yourself even, +wish to go there. Isn't that so? Yes. I've met such men in such +places. Then they did not give me the impression that they were +satisfied with their romance. Impossible, of course. Romance is never +in the place unless we put it there, and who would put even a sentimental +dream into such a hole as Tabacol? Tropical squalor. Broken people! +I've never seen romance in such a place, and don't expect to. . . ." + +Several cabs, on their way to a ship outward bound, made an increasing +noise in the night, rattled by on the cobbles outside, their occupants +roaring a sentimental chorus, and drowned what the doctor was saying. + +". . . folly. Worse than folly." He was holding his gloves now, and was +lightly flicking the edge of the table with them in place of verbal +emphasis. He suddenly regarded me again as if he strongly suspected me +of being his antipathy. "Who but a fool would take a woman to such a +country as that? Any romantic sentimentalist, I suppose. I forget the +name of the ship. There was, you might say, hardly sufficient room to +paint a name on her. She was no more than a tug. It was a miracle she +survived to get there at all, for she had crossed from England. Crossed +the Western ocean in such a craft, and brought a woman with him. Did +ever you hear of such folly?" + +Now I was certain of our whereabouts, and felt a weak inclination to show +an elder that I, too, knew something about it; but when I leaned forward +eagerly and was about to speak, the doctor screwed in that devastating +monocle, and I felt I was only a curious example of the sort of thing he +especially disliked. For a minute, in which I wondered if I had quite +stopped his guarded flow, he said no more. Then he addressed his +eyeglass to a panel of the partition, and flicked his gloves at that. + +"I had noticed for some days that little craft lying near us, but gave +her no attention. I had sixteen men to attend to with complexions like +lemons, and one died. There was no time to bother with other folk's +troubles. Our skipper, one breakfast-time, told me there was a woman +aboard that little thing, and he'd been asked whether I'd go over. She +was ill. + +"I've seen some queer packets of misery at sea, but never one that +touched that ship. Her skipper seemed a regular fool. I had to ask him +to speak up, for he mumbled like a boy who has been caught out, and knows +it is useless to pretend. I learned from him that he was only just +beginning his voyage. You understand? He was just beginning it, there. +He was going up-river, to a point not on the chart. I cannot make out +now whether he wanted to put that woman ashore to get home in comfort at +the first opportunity, or whether . . . it's impossible to say. One +would sooner believe the best of another man, with half a chance. After +all," said the doctor bitterly, "as long as the woman survived I suppose +she was some consolation in misery. + +"I scrambled over the deck lumber. There was hardly room to move. I +found her in a cabin where she could get little seclusion from the crew. +Hardly any privacy at all, I should say. As soon as I saw her I could +make a guess . . . however, I told the fellow afterwards what I thought, +and he gave me no answer. He even turned his back on me. He must have +known well enough that that river was no place for any sort of white +woman. He was condemning her perhaps to death just to make an ugly job +more attractive. + +"I admit," said the doctor, with a sly glance, "that she could make it +attractive, for a sort of man. She was wrapped in a rosy dressing-gown. +She held it together with her hands. I noticed them . . . anybody might +. . . they were covered with rings. She had character, too. She made me +feel, the way she looked at me, that I was indiscreet in asking personal +questions. I could see what was wrong with her. It was debility, but +all the same the beginning of an end not far off, in that country. + +"'You'll have to get out of this,' I told her. + +"'Can't be done, Doctor,' she said coolly. + +"'It can. A liner for England will be here in another week, and you must +take it.' + +"'I don't,' she said. She was quiet enough, but she seemed a very wilful +woman. 'I've got my job here.' + +"I told her that the skipper of her ship would never carry out his +orders, because they could not be carried out. I told her, what was +perfectly true, that their craft would rot on a sandbar, or find +cataracts, or that they'd all get eaten by cannibals, or die of something +nasty. I admit I tried to frighten her. + +"'It's no good, Doctor,' she said. 'You can't worry me. I've got my +work to do in this ship, like the others.' + +"'Pooh!' I said to her. 'Cooking and that. Anybody could do it. Let +the men do it. It's not a woman's job.' + +"'You're wrong,' she said. 'It's mine. You don't know.' + +"I began to get annoyed with this stubborn creature. I told her she +would die, if she didn't leave the working of that ship to those who +ought to do it. + +"'Who ought?' she asked me, in a bit of a temper. 'I know what I have to +do. I'm going through with it. It's no good talking. I'll take my +chance, like the rest.' + +"So I had to tell her that I was there because the master of her ship had +sent for me to give my advice. My business was to say what she ought to +do. + +"'I don't want to be told. I know,' she said. 'The captain sent for +you. Talk to him.' + +"My temper was going, and I told her that it was something to know the +captain himself had enough sense to send for me. + +"'Look here,' she told me. 'I've had enough of this. I want to be +alone. Thank you for troubling to come over.'" + +The doctor lifted his shoulders, and made a wry face, that might have +been disdain or pity. + +"I was leaving her, but she called to me, and I went back. She held out +her hand. 'I do thank you for troubling about me. Of course I do. But +I want to stay on here--I must.' + +"'Well, you know the penalty,' I said. 'I was bound to tell you that.' + +"'What of it?' she said, and laughed at me. 'We musn't bother about +penalties. Good-bye!' + +"I must say she made me feel that if the skipper of that ship had been of +different metal, she might almost have pulled him through. But what a +man. What a man! I saw his miserable little figure standing not far +from where my boat was when I was going. He made as if he were coming to +me, and then stopped. I was going to take no notice of him, but went up +and explained a thing or two. I'll bet he'll remember them. All he said +was: 'I was afraid you'd never change her mind,' and turned away. What a +man! There was a pair for you. I could understand him, but what could +have been in her mind? Whatever made her talk like that? That's the way +of it. There's your romance of the tropics, and your squalid Garden of +Eden, when you know it. A monotonous and dreary job, and a woman." + +The landlord returned. The monocle fixedly and significantly regarded +me. "Have another, Doctor," said the landlord, pointing to the empty +tankard. "How long were you in Macassar?" The doctor turned briskly to +his old friend, and began some chaff. + + +4 + +Ferguson, who had just come into port with a damaged propeller shaft, was +telling us how it was. This was his first expansive experience, and +there could be no doubt the engine-room staff of the _Torrington_ had +behaved very well. The underwriters had recognized that, and handsomely, +at a special meeting at Cornhill. Though Ferguson was young for a chief +engineer, his professional elders, who were listening to him, showed some +critical appreciation of the way he solved his problem. He was sitting +at a table of the _Negro Boy_, drawing a diagram on it, and they stood +round. + +"There. That was where it was. You see what we had to do. It would not +have been so bad in calm weather, but we were labouring heavily, all the +way from Savannah. Our old man did not think it possible to do it. But +it was no good waiting for something worse to happen." + +The matter grew too technical for me. There was cargo jettisoned, and +ballast tanks emptied aft. The stern of the _Torrington_ was lifted so +that her propeller at intervals was clear. Ferguson then went overside +on life-lines. When he was not submerged, he was trying to put his ship +right again; and when he became exhausted, one of his colleagues took his +place, to see whether, while escaping drowning, he could continue the +work of salvation. They all escaped, and the _Torrington_ put back to +Tampa for repairs, which her own engineers accomplished. + +The demonstration was over, and Ferguson's story was lapsing into general +gossip. The party of men began to dissolve. + +"Who do you think I saw at Tampa?" Ferguson asked Macandrew. "Old Purdy." + +"What?" cried Macandrew. "Is he alive?" + +Ferguson laughed. "Just about. What's he been doing? I thought he had +chucked the sea. It was in the Customs Office. I'd been there to make a +declaration, and in one of those long corridors there he stood, all +alone, with his hat in his hand, perhaps cooling his head. I hardly knew +him. He's more miserable than ever." + +"Did he say anything?" asked Macandrew. + +"About as much as usual. I didn't know him at first. He seemed rather +ill. The temples of that high forehead of his were knotted with veins. +It nearly gave me a headache to look at him." + +Several of us were impelled to ask a number of questions, but Ferguson +was listening now, with the detachment of youth, to the end of a bawdy +story that two men were laughing over. This had already displaced Purdy +in his mind. + +"Didn't he say anything at all? Didn't he mention Hanson?" we asked +Ferguson. + +"Eh? What, old Purdy? I don't think so. I don't remember. Now you +mention it, I think I did hear somewhere that Hanson was with Purdy. But +I don't believe he said anything about him. I was just going to ask him +to come and have a drink, when he said good-bye. All I know is I saw him +standing there like a sorrowful saint. Then he walked off slowly down +the corridor. He's a sociable beggar. I couldn't help laughing at him." + + +5 + +There was a notice in the window of the _Negro Boy_, and I discovered +that the tavern was under Entirely New Management. The picture sign over +the principal door had been renewed. The mythical little figure which +had given the public-house its name was no longer lost in the soot of +half a century. He was now an obvious negro boy, resplendent in a golden +coat. The reticence of the green window-curtains had become a bright +vacancy of mirrors, and the tavern was modern within. Reform had +destroyed the exclusiveness of the saloon bar; instead of privacy, +distant mirrors astonished you with glimpses of your own head which were +incredible and embarrassing in their novelty. The table-tops were of +white marble supported on gilded iron. The prints and lithographs of +ships had gone from the walls, and were replaced by real pictures +converted to the advertisement of various whiskies--pictures of +battleships, bull-dogs, Scotsmen, and figures in armour tempted from +their ancient posts in baronial halls, after midnight, to finish the +precious drink forgotten by the guests. In accordance with this +transformation the young lady in attendance at the bar was in neat black +and white, with her hair as compact and precise as a resolution at a +public meeting which had been passed even by the women present. She was +severe and decisive, and without recognition of anything there but the +tariff of the house, and sold her refreshments as in a simple yet +exacting ritual which she despised, but knew to be righteous. + +It was many months since I had been there. Macandrew was no nearer than +Rotterdam, and perhaps would not see London that voyage. There had been +a long period in which change had been at work at the docks, even to +their improvement, but through it all not one of my old friends had +returned home. They had approached no nearer than Falmouth, the +Hartlepools, or Antwerp, with a slender chance that they would come to +the Thames, and next we heard of them when they were bound outwards once +more, and for a period known not even to their wives. The new _Negro +Boy_ had not the appearance of a place where I could expect to find a +friend, and I was leaving it again, instantly, when a tall figure rose in +a corner waving a reassuring hand. I did not recognize the man, but +thought I knew his smile, which made me look at him in dawning hope. The +grin, evidently knowing its power, was maintained till I saw it +indubitably as Hanson's. He made a remembered gesture with his +spectacles. "I was just about sick of this place," he said. "I've +waited here for an hour hoping somebody would turn up. Where's Macandrew +now?" + +"In Rotterdam. I don't think he will be home this voyage." + +"And what's happened to this house? Where's the old man?" + +"You know all I know about it. I haven't been here for nearly a year. +We must expect progress to make things better than they were. Where have +you come from?" + +"I'm running between Liverpool and Baltimore now, in the Planets. +They're comfortable ships, but I don't admire the Western ocean. It's +too savage and cold. How is Macandrew? I came up from Liverpool because +I felt I must see him again. I heard he was here." + +From the way he talked, I thought he preferred those subjects requiring +the least effort for a casual occasion. "Now and then," I had to tell +him, "some of us have wondered what happened to the _Cygnet_." + +Hanson's smile became effulgent. My remark might have reminded him of a +most enjoyable joke, but he made no sign, while enjoying it privately, +that he intended to share it with me at any time. + +"There was a _Cygnet_, wasn't there?" he asked, when my patience had +nearly gone. "I should like somebody to confirm it. The reason I came +to this house tonight, to be candid, was just to see this room again, to +settle a doubt I had. Didn't Macandrew stand over there, and show +concern because a fair, plump woman wasn't quick enough with his beer?" + +I admitted this, as an encouragement. "But when I got here tonight," +continued Hanson, "the change made me feel my mind had lost hold. I must +say it's a relief to see you." + +"Has this anything to do with the _Cygnet_?" I asked. + +"Everything. I had the time of my life. I wouldn't have missed it for +anything. But somehow, now and then, I want to be quite sure I had it +myself, and not some other fellow." He beamed with the very remembrance +of the experience, and nodded his head at me. He leaned over the table +to me in confidence. "Have you ever been to the tropics? I don't mean +calling at Colombo or Rio. I mean the back of things where there's a +remarkable sun experimenting with low life and hardly anybody looking on. +If ever you get the chance, you take it. It alters all your ideas of +time and space. You begin to learn what stuff life is made of when you +see a tropical forest, and see nothing else for months. On the other +hand," he said, "you become nothing. You see it doesn't matter to others +what happens to you, and you don't care much what happens to others." + +"You don't care? It doesn't matter?" I said in doubt to this young +mathematician and philosopher, who had been experimenting with life. +"Isn't that merely romantic?" + +"Romance--romance be damned! I got down to the facts." + +"Well, get me down to them. I should like the facts. I want to hear +what this strange voyage was like." + +"As you know," Hanson assured me, "I went out merely to see what would +happen to myself, in certain circumstances. I knew I was going to be +scared, and I was. There is a place called Tabacol on the river, and we +anchored there after our ocean passage for more than a week. I don't +know why, and it was no use asking Purdy. Probably he didn't know. I +had made up my mind to make the engines move and stop, whenever ordered, +and then see where we are. Anyway, after the racket of the sea voyage, +when the engines stopped at Tabacol the utter silence was as if something +which had been waiting there for you at once pounced. The quiet was of +an awful weight. I could hardly breathe, and chanced to look at the +thermometer. It stood at 132 degrees. I don't know how I got outside, +but when I came to I was on my back on deck, and Jessie was looking after +me. I remember wondering then how a big, fleshy woman like her could +stand it, and felt almost as sorry for her as I did for myself." + +"Did she look ill?" + +"Jessie? Oh, I don't know. She looked as if she might have been having +a merrier time. Well, we left Tabacol, and I felt we were leaving +everything we knew behind us. I got the idea, in the first day on the +river, that we were quite lost, and were only pushing the old _Cygnet_ +along to keep up our spirits. We crawled close under the walls of the +forest. Our vessel looked about as large and important as a leaf adrift. +That place is so immense that I saw we were going to make no impression +on it. It wouldn't matter to anybody but ourselves if it swallowed us +up. On the first day I saw a round head and two yellow eyes in it, +watching us go by. The thought went through my mind: 'a jaguar.' The +watching face vanished on the instant, and I always felt afterwards that +the forest knew all about us, but wouldn't let us know anything. I got +the idea that it wasn't of the least use going on, unless we didn't +intend to treat the job seriously. If we were serious about it then it +was evident we ought to turn back." + +"Didn't the skipper ever say what he thought of it?" + +"What could Purdy think, or do? There was that river, and the forest on +both sides of it, and the sun over us. Nothing else but the quiet; and +we didn't know where our destination was. We anchored every evening, +close to the bank. One evening, as we anchored, a shower of arrows +clattered about us. There was just one shower, out of the trees, or out +of the clouds." + +"What was Jessie doing all this time?" I ventured to ask him. + +"Why, what was any one doing? She wasn't an anxiety of my department. I +suppose she was there for the only reason I had--because she asked for +it. It was the same next day, except that instead of more arrows we +found a python in the bunkers. Came aboard over the hawsers, I suppose. +We were a lively lunatic asylum below while killing it with fire-shovels +and crowbars. That was what the voyage was like. The whole lot of it +was the same, and you knew quite well that the farther you went the less +anything mattered. There were slight variations each day of snakes, +mosquitoes, and fevers, to keep you from feeling dead already." + +"I've often wondered," I confessed, thinking to bring Hanson to something +I wanted to hear, "what happened to your company. Once we had a word of +Purdy, but never of Jessie or of you." + +"Well, now I'm telling you. But you'd have been past wondering if you'd +been with us. Purdy wasn't companionable. He'd tell me it was hot. And +it was. You could feel that yourself. Jessie cooked our meals. Her +galley could have been only a shade better than the engine-room. She +began to look rather faded. At last I was the only one who hadn't been +down with fever. We crawled on and on, and the only question was where +we ourselves would end, for the forest and the river were never going to. +But you didn't care. I'd never been better in my life, and here was the +thing I'd always wanted to see. I could have gone on for ever like that, +wondering what we should see round the next corner. + +"Our big troubles were to come. Up to then, we hadn't run into anything +really drastic after turning a corner. I suppose we had had about a +month of it, and God knows where we were, but we had nobody to ask; and +then we ran on a sandbar. The jungle met overhead. We were in what was +only a dark drain through the forest. So this, I thought, is where we +throw in our hand. We might as well have been in another planet for all +the chance we had of getting away from that place. We were aground for +two days; the river then rose a foot, and we came off. The men were +complaining among themselves by then. I heard them talking to each other +about chucking it. It was bound to come. This day they went aft in a +body to Purdy. There stood Purdy, a little object in white against the +gloom of the forest, and he looked about as futile as the last match in a +wind at night. He stood fingering a beard he had grown. One of the men +was beginning to talk truculently at him. Just then Jessie appeared from +below, between me and the group. She had been down with fever for some +days, and she surprised me as much as a ghost. She looked rather like +one, too. She stood watching Purdy, without moving. He didn't look at +her, though he must have known she was there. I'm pretty sure we had to +thank her for what happened to us afterwards, for it was then that Purdy +began shaking his finger at that big stoker who was shouting. I'd never +seen him with such an expression before. As near as he could be wild, he +was. 'We're going on,' said Purdy to them very distinctly. 'This ship +continues her voyage. If you want to leave her here, I'll put you +ashore.' He walked away some paces, and came back to the men. Then he +said something more in his usual voice. 'Do you men tell me you're +afraid of the job? I don't believe it. It can be done. We'll do it. +We'll do it. Mr. Hanson,' he called out, 'we are ready to get under way. +Would you please stand by?' + +"The men never said another word. They went for'ard. It was very +curious, but after that they behaved as though they had another skipper. +Yet they were properly frightened by what they thought was ahead of them. +My lot below were always asking me about it, and I handed them the usual +ornamental and soothing lies, in which they believed long enough to keep +the steam up. What more could you ask of human nature? So we kept her +plugging along, getting nearer and nearer nowhere. We turned another of +those dramatic corners, later on, though I forget how much later, and +ahead of us the river was piled high with rocks, and was tumbling from +above. The _Cygnet_ had had her fair share of luck, but luck could not +get her over that. We were all looking at the white water ahead, and +feeling--at least I was--that we were being laughed at, when I heard +Purdy call me, and turned round. He was hurrying towards me round the +gear, and I thought from the look of him that this complete frustration +had turned his mind. He signed for me to follow him, and I did it, +wondering what we should do with a lunatic added to all the rest of it. +I followed him into his cabin. 'What can I do?' he said, and bent over +his berth, 'what can I do?' + +"Jessie was curled up on her side in his berth, and there was nothing +anyone could do. I didn't know she was alive. But she half opened her +eyes, without looking up, and her hand began moving towards Purdy. 'That +you, Bill?' she said. Purdy flopped down beside her. I got out. + +"So I took over for a bit--the mate was no good--and waited for the next +thing. That affair disheartened the men a lot, and I took it for +granted, from their faces as they stood round that figure in a tarpaulin +under a tree in the forest, that we were witnessing the end. There was +Purdy, too . . . you couldn't expect much from him after a funeral." + +Hanson bent over the table, and began tapping it with a finger, and spoke +slowly through a surprise he still felt. "Old Purdy came to me the +following morning, and told me what he intended to do. What do you +think? He reckoned that, though we were still a hundred miles from the +headquarters of the consignees, an outpost was probably no farther than +just above the falls. He himself was going to prospect, for there should +be a native trail through the woods, past the rapids; and he left me in +charge. + +"Macandrew was all wrong about that fellow. In two days he was back. He +had found an outpost, four miles above, but nobody was there, so we could +get no help. He was going to land our cargo of a ton and a half of +machinery, and place it on the company's territory above the falls. 'You +can see for yourself,' Purdy said to me pathetically, 'that I can't +deliver the _Cygnet_ there. But I think I am right in making her secure +and leaving her here, and reporting it. What else can I do? They ought +to give me a clean receipt.' + +"It was funny enough, that anxiety about a ship and machinery where there +was nothing but monkeys and parrots, but I agreed with him, and we got to +work landing those packages of mining gear, which only an expert could +understand, in a place where nothing was likely to happen till the Last +Day. The way we sweated over it! And then warped the stuff with snatch +blocks through four miles of jungle. Yes; and buried two men of our +company on the way. But we did get the cargo on to the company's damned +land at last, and a nice lot of half-naked scarecrows we looked, with +nothing to fill our hollow cheeks but whiskers. There the name of the +place was all right, 'Tres Irmaos,' painted over a shed. The shed was +falling to pieces. There was nobody about. Nothing but a little open +space, and the forest around, and the sun blazing down at us. + +"We pushed on for headquarters, Purdy leading us. A hundred miles to go! +I don't know how we did it. Three more died, including the mate, but we +didn't bury those. Purdy kept on the move. He told me, after an +eternity, that it was just ahead of us, and at last we did come to some +other men. They were Colombians. We astonished them, but nothing could +astonish us any more. Purdy learned that he had got to our ultimate +destination all right. Then some fellow appeared, in a gaudy uniform and +a sword, who spoke English. When Purdy asked to be taken to the manager +of the company, this gay chap laughed fiercely, and kept looking at Purdy +in triumph. 'Him?' he shouted, when he had got enough fun out of it, +'im? He's dead. We execute him. All those people--they go. No more +company. All finish. No good.' He was very bright about it. + +"Purdy never said a word. All he did was to turn to me, and then stare +beyond me with big eyes at something which couldn't possibly have been +there." + + + + +VII. Not in the Almanac + +It was an unlucky Friday morning; "and, what's more," the chief officer +stopped on the gangway to call down to me on the quay, "a black cat +crossed my path when I left home this morning, and a very nice black +cat it was." The gangway was hauled up. The tugs began to move the +big steamer away from us, a process so slow that the daylight between +us and the ship increased imperceptibly. + +On my way home I paused by the shop which sells such antiques as old +spring mattresses, china dogs, portable baths, dumb-bells, and even the +kind of bedroom furniture which one would never have supposed was +purchasable at second-hand. But lower, much lower in the shopkeeper's +estimate than even such commodities--thrown into a bin because they +were rubbish, and yet not quite valueless--was a mass of odd volumes. +_The First Principles of Algebra_, _Acts Relating to Pawnbrokers_, and +_Jessica's First Prayer_, were discovered in that order. The next was +_Superstitions of the Sea_. + +I am not superstitious. I have never met a man who was. And look at +the ships in dock today, without figure-heads, with masts that are only +the support of derricks and the aerials of wireless, and with science +and an official certificate of competency even in the galley! Could +anything happen in such ships to bring one to awe and wonder? The dark +of the human mind is now lighted, one may say, with electricity. We +have no shadows to make us hesitate. That book of sea superstitions +was on my table, some weeks later, and a sailor, who gave up trading to +the East to patrol mine-fields for three years, and who has never been +known to lose any time when in doubt through wasting it on a secret +propitiatory gesture, picked up the book, smiling a little +superciliously, lost his smile when examining it, and then asked if he +might borrow it. + +We are not superstitious, now we are sure a matter may be mysterious +only when we have not had the leisure to test it in the right way, but +we have our private reservations. There is a ship's doctor, who has +been called a hard case by those who know him, for he has grown grey +and serious in watching humanity from the Guinea Coast to the South +Seas. He only smiles now when listening to a religious or a political +discussion, and might not be supposed to have any more regard for the +mysteries than you would find in the _Cold Storage Gazette_. When he +is home again we go to the British Museum. He always takes me there. +It is one of his weaknesses. I invited him, when last we were there, +to let us search out a certain exhibit from Egypt about which curious +stories are whispered. "No you don't," he exclaimed peremptorily. He +gave me no argument, but I gathered that it is very well to be funny +about such coincidences, yet that one never certainly knows, and that +it is better to regard the unexplored dark with a well-simulated +respect till one can see through it. He had, he said, known of affairs +in the East, and they were not provided for in the books; he had tried +to see through them from all points, but not with the satisfaction he +desired. For that reason he never invited trouble unless he knew it +was not there. + +Another man, very like him, a master mariner, and one who knew me well +enough for secrets, was bringing me from the French Coast for Barry at +full speed, in a fog. He was a clever, but an indiscreet navigator. I +was mildly rebuking him by the door of his chart-room for his +foolhardiness, but he laughed quietly, said he intended to make a good +passage, which his owners expected, and that when the problem was +straightforward he used science, but that when it was all a fog he +trusted mainly to his instinct, or whatever it might be, to inform him +in time. I was not to be alarmed. We should have the Lizard eight +miles on the starboard beam in another hour and a half. By this time +we were continuing our talk in the chart-room. An old cap of his was +on the floor, upside down. I faced him there, in rebuke of this +reliance on instinct, but he was staring at the cap, a little startled. +Then he dashed past me without a word for the bridge. While following +him at leisure I heard the telegraph ring. Outside I could see nothing +but the pallor of a blind world. The flat sea was but the fugitive +lustre of what might have been water; but all melted into nothing at a +distance which could have been anywhere. The tremor of the ship +lessened, and the noise of the wash fell, for the speed had slackened. +We might have become hushed, and were waiting, listening and anxious, +for something that was invisible, but threatening. Then I heard the +skippers voice, quick but quiet, and arrived on the bridge in time to +see the man at the wheel putting it hard over. Something had been +sighted ahead of us, and now was growing broad on the starboard bow--a +faint presentment of land, high and unrelated, for there was a luminous +void below it. It was a filmy and coloured ghost in the sky, with a +thin shine upon it of a sun we could not see. It grew more material as +we watched it, and brighter, a near and indubitable coast. "I know +where I am now," said the skipper. "Another minute or two, and we +should have been on the Manacles." + +Smiling a little awkwardly, he explained that he had seen that old cap +on the floor before, without knowing how it could have got there, and +at the same time he had felt very nervous, without knowing why. The +last time was when, homeward bound in charge of a fine steamer, he +hoped Finisterre was distant, but not too far off. Just about _there_, +as it were; and that his dead reckoning was correct. The weather had +been dirty, the seas heavy, and the sun invisible. He went on, to find +nothing but worse weather. He did sight, however, two other steamers, +on the same course as himself, evidently having calculated to pass +Ushant in the morning; his own calculation. He would be off Ushant +later, for his speed was less than theirs. There they were, a lucky +and unexpected confirmation of his own reasoning. His chief officer, +an elderly man full of doubt, smiled again, and smacked his hands +together. That was all right. My friend then went into the +chart-room, and underwent the strange experience we know. He wondered +a little, concluded it was just as well to be on the safe side, and +slightly altered his course. Early next morning he sighted Ushant. +There was nothing to spare. He was, indeed, cutting it fine. The seas +were great, and piled up on the rocks of that bad coast were the two +steamers he had sighted the day before. + +Why had not the other two masters received the same nudge from +Providence before it was too late? That is what the unfortunate, who +cannot genuinely offer solemn thanks like the lucky, will never know, +though they continually ask. It is the darkest and most unedifying +part of the mystery. Moreover, that side of the question, as a war has +helped us to remember, never troubles the lucky ones. Yet I wish to +add that later, my friend, when in waters not well known, in charge of +a ship on her maiden voyage--for he always got the last and best ship +from his owners, they having recognized that his stars were +well-assorted--was warned that to attempt a certain passage, in some +peculiar circumstances, was what a wise man would not lightly +undertake. But my friend was young, daring, clever, and fortunate. +That morning his cap was _not_ on the floor. At night his valuable +ship with her exceptionally valuable cargo was fast for ever on a coral +reef. + +What did that prove? Apart from the fact that if the young reject the +experience of their elders they may regret it, just as they may regret +if they do pay heed to it, his later misfortune proves nothing; except, +perhaps, that the last thing on which a man should rely, unless he +must, is the supposed favour of the gods of whom he knows nothing but, +say, a cap unreasonably on the floor; yet gods, nevertheless, whose +existence even the wise and dubious cannot flatly deny. + +It may have been for a reason of such a sort that I did not lend my +book to my young sailor friend who wished to borrow it. I should never +have had it back. Men go to sea, and forget us. Our world has +narrowed and has shut out Vanderdecken for ever. But now that +everything private and personal about us which is below the notice even +of the Freudian professor is pigeon-holed by officials at the Town +Hall, I enjoy reading the abundant evidence for the Extra Hand, that +one of the ship's company who cannot be counted in the watch, but is +felt to be there. And now that every Pacific dot is a concession to +some registered syndicate of money-makers, the Isle-of-No-Land-At-All, +which some lucky mariners profess to have sighted, is our last chance +of refuge. We cannot let even the thought of it go. + + + + +VIII. The Illusion + +When I came to the house in Malabar Street to which John Williams, +master mariner, had retired from the sea, his wife was at her front +gate. It was evening, and from the distant River a steamer called. +Mrs. Williams did not see me, for her grey head was turned away. She +was watching, a little down the street, an officer of the Merchant +Service, with his cap set like a challenge, for he was very young, and +a demure girl with a market-basket who was with him. They were +standing in amused perplexity before their house door. It was a house +that had been empty since the foundering of the _Drummond Castle_. The +sailor was searching his pockets for the door-key, and the girl was +laughing at his pretended lively nervousness in not finding it. Mrs. +Williams had not heard me stop at her elbow, and continued to watch the +comedy. She had no children, and she loved young people. + +I did not speak, but waited for her to turn, with that ship's call +still sounding in my mind. The rain had cleared for a winter sunset. +Opposite, in the house which had been turned into a frugal shop, it was +thought so near to night that they lit their lamp, though it was not +only possible to see the bottles of sweet-stuff and the bundles of wood +in the window, but to make out the large print of a bill stuck to a +pane announcing a concert at the Wesleyan Mission Room. The lamp was +alight also in the little beer-house next door to it, where the +_Shipping Gazette_ could be borrowed, if it were not already out on +loan; for children constantly go there for it, with a request from +mother, learning their geography that way in Malabar Street, while +following a father or a brother round the world and back again, and +working out by dead-reckoning whether he would be home for Christmas. + +The quiet street, with every house alike, had that air of conscious +reserve which is given by the respectable and monotonous; but for a +moment then it was bright with the glory of the sky's afterglow +reflected on its wet pavements, as though briefly exalted with an +unexpected revelation. The radiance died. Night came, and it was as +if the twilight native to the street clouded from its walls and brimmed +it with gloom, while yet the sky was bright. The lamplighter set his +beacon at the end of the street. + +That key had been found. Mrs. Williams laughed to herself, and then +saw me. "Oh," she exclaimed. "I didn't know you were there. Did you +see that? That lamplighter! When Williams was at sea, and I was +alone, it was quite hopeful when the lamplighter did that. It looked +like a star. And that Number Ten is let at last. Did you see the +young people there? I'm sure they're newly married. He's a sailor." + +With the fire, the humming kettle, and the cat between us, and the +table laid for tea, Mrs. Williams speculated with interest and hope +about those young strangers. Did I notice what badge was on his cap? +My eyes were better than hers. She trusted it would be all right for +them. They were starting very young. It was better to start young. +She looked such a good little soul, that girl. It was pleasant to know +that house was let at last. It had been empty too long. It was +getting a name. People could not help remembering why it was empty. +But young life would make it bright. + +"People say things only change, but I like to think they change for the +better, don't you? But Williams, he will have it they change for the +worse. I don't know, I'm sure. He thinks nothing really good except +the old days." She laughed quietly, bending to tickle the cat's +ear--"nothing good at all except the old days. Even the wrecks were +more like wrecks." She looked at me, smiling. + +"As you know," she said, "there's many men who follow the sea with +homes in this street, but Williams is so proud and strong-willed. He +says he doesn't want to hear about them. What do they know about the +sea? You know his way. What do they know about the sea? That's the +way he talks, doesn't he? But surely the sea is the same for us all. +He won't have it, though. Williams is so vain and determined." + +The captain knocked. There was no doubt about that knock. The door +surrendered to him. His is a peremptory summons. The old master +mariner brought his bulk with dignity into the room, and his wife, +reaching up to that superior height, too slight for the task, +ministered to the overcoat of the big figure which was making, all +unconsciously, disdainful noises in its throat. It would have been +worse than useless for me to interfere. The pair would have repelled +me. This was a domestic rite. Once in his struggle with his coat the +dominant figure glanced down at the earnestness of his little mate, +paused for a moment, and the stern face relaxed. + +With his attention concentrated and severe even in so small an effort +as taking from his broad back a reluctant coat, and the unvarying fixed +intentness of the dark eyes over which the lids, loose with age, had +partly folded, giving him the piercing look of a bird of prey; and the +swarthiness of his face, massive, hairless, and acutely ridged, with +its crown of tousled white hair, his was a figure which made it easy to +believe the tales one had heard of him when he was the master of the +_Oberon_, and drove his ship home with the new season's tea, leaving, +it is said, a trail of light spars all the way from Tientsin to the +Channel. + +The coat was off. His wife had it over her arm, and was regarding with +concern the big petulant face above her. She said to him: "Number Ten +is let at last. They're a young couple who have got it. He's a +sailor." + +The old man sat down at a corner of the table, stooped, and in one +handful abruptly hauled the cat off the rug, laying its unresisting +body across his knees, and rubbing its ribs with a hand that half +covered it. He did not appear to have heard what he had been told. He +did not look at her, but talked gravely to the fire. "I met Dennison +today," he said, as if speaking aloud to himself, in surprise at +meeting Dennison. "Years since I saw him," he continued, turning to +me. "Where was it now, where was it? Must have been Canton River, the +year he lost his ship. Extraordinary to find Dennison still afloat. +Not many of those men about now. You can go the length of the Dock +Road today and see nothing and meet nobody." + +He looked again into the flames, fixedly, as though what he really +wanted was only to be found in them. His wife was at his elbow. She, +too, was watching them, still with his coat over her arm. She spoke +aloud, though more to herself than to us. "She seemed such a nice +little woman, too. I couldn't see the badge on his cap." + +"Eh?" said the old man, throwing the cat back to the floor and rounding +to his wife. "What's that? Let's have tea, Mrs. Williams. We're both +dreaming, and there's a visitor. What are you dreaming about? You've +nothing to dream about." + +There was never any doubt, though, that the past was full and alive to +him. There was only the past. And what a memory was his! He would +look at the portrait of his old clipper, the _Oberon_--it was central +over the mantel-shelf--and recall her voyages, and the days in each +voyage, and just how the weather was, what canvas she carried, and how +things happened. Malabar Street vanished. We would go, when he was in +that mood, and live for the evening in another year, with men who have +gone, among strange affairs forgotten. + +Mrs. Williams would be in her dream, too, with her work-basket in her +lap, absently picking the table-cloth with her needle. But for us, all +we knew was that the _Cinderella_ had a day's start of us, and the +weather in the Southern Ocean, when we got there, was like the death of +the world. I was aware that we were under foresail, lower topsails, +and stay-sails only, and they were too much. They were driving us +under, and the _Oberon_ was tender. Yes, she was very tricky. But +where was the _Cinderella_? Anyhow, she had a day's start of us. +Captain Williams would rise then, and stand before his ship's picture, +pointing into her rigging. + +"I must go in and see that girl," said the captain's wife once, when we +were in the middle of one of our voyages. + +"Eh?" questioned her husband, instantly bending to her, but keeping his +forefinger pointing to his old ship; thinking, perhaps, his wife was +adding something to his narrative he had forgotten. + +"Yes," she said, and did not meet his face. "I must go in and see her. +He's been gone a week now. He must be crossing the Bay, and look at +the weather we've had. I know what it is." + +I did then leave our voyage in the past for a moment, to listen to the +immediate weather without. It was certainly a wild night. I should +get wet when I left for home. + +"Ah!" exclaimed the puzzled captain, suddenly enlightened, with his +finger still addressing the picture on the wall. "She means the man +down the street. An engineer, isn't he? The missis calls him a +sailor." He continued that voyage, made in 1862. + +There was one evening when, on the home run, we had overhauled and +passed our rivals in the race, and were off the Start. Captain +Williams was serving a tot all round, in a propitiatory act, hoping to +lower the masts of the next astern deeper beneath the horizon, and to +keep them there till he was off Blackwall Point. He then found he +wanted to show me a letter, testimony to the work of his ship, which he +had received that voyage from his owners. Where was it? The missis +knew, and he looked over his shoulder for her. But she was not there. + +They must have been the days to live in, when China was like that, and +there was all the East, and such ships, and men who were seamen and +navigators in a way that is lost. As the old master mariner, who had +lived in that time, would sometimes demand of me: What is the sea now? +Steamers do not make time, or lose it. They keep it. They run to +schedule, one behind the other, in processions. They have nothing to +overcome. They do not fail, and they cannot triumph. They are +predestined engines, and the sea is but their track. Yet it had been +otherwise. And the old man would brood into the greater past, his +voice would grow quiet, and he would gently emphasize his argument by +letting one hand, from a fixed wrist, rise, and fall sadly on the +table, in a gesture of solemn finality. He was in that act, early one +evening, while his wife was reading a newspaper; and I had risen to go, +and stood for a moment silent in the thought that these of ours were +lesser days, and their petty demands and trivial duties made of men but +mere attendants on uninspiring process. + +Serene Mrs. Williams, reading her paper, and not in our world at all, +at that moment struck the paper into her lap, and fixed me with +surprise and shock in her eyes, as though she had just repelled that +mean print in a malicious attempt at injury. Her husband took no +notice. She handed me the paper, with a finger on a paragraph. "The +steamer _Arab_, which sailed on December 26 last for Buenos Aires, has +not been heard of since that date, and today was 'posted' as missing." + +I remembered then a young man in uniform, with a rakish cap, trying to +find a key while a girl was laughing at him. As I left the house I +could see in the dusk, a little down the street, the girl standing at +her gate. The street was empty and silent. At the end of it the +lamp-lighter set his beacon. + + + + +IX. In a Coffee-Shop + +With a day of rain, Dockland is set in its appropriate element. It +does not then look better than before, but it looks what it is. Not +sudden April showers are meant, sparkling and revivifying, but a +drizzle, thin and eternal, as if the rain were no more than the shadow +cast by a sky as unchanging as poverty. When real night comes, then +the street lamps dissolve ochreous hollows in the murk. It was such a +day as that; it was not night, for the street lamps were not alight. +There was no sound. The rain was as noiseless as the passage of time. +Two other wayfarers were in the street with me. One had no right +there, nor anywhere, and knew it, slinking along with his head and tail +held low, trailing a length of string through the puddles. The other, +too, seemed lost. He was idling as if one street was the same as +another, and on that day there was rain in all. He came towards me, +with his hands in his pockets and his coat collar up. He turned on me +briskly, with a sudden decision, when he drew level. Water dripped +from the peak of his cap, and his clothes were heavy and dark with it. +He spoke. "Mister, could ye give me a hand up? I've made a mess of +it." His cheerful and rather insolent assurance faltered for a moment. +He then mumbled: "I've been on the booze y'understand." But there was +still something in his tone which suggested that any good man might +have done the same thing. + +It is not easy to be even sententious with the sinful when an open +confession robs us of our moral prerogative, so I only told him that it +seemed likely booze had something to do with it. His age could have +been forty; but it was not easy to judge, for the bridge of his nose +was a livid depression. Some accident had pushed in his face under the +eyes, giving him the battered aspect of ancient sin. His sinister +appearance would have frightened any timid lady if he had stopped her +in such a street, on such a day, with nobody about but a lost dog, and +the houses, it could be supposed, deserted, or their inmates secluded +in an abandonment to misery. And, taking another glance at him, I +thought it probable, from the frank regard of the blue and frivolous +eye which met mine, that he would have recognized timidity in a lady at +a distance, and would have passed her without seeing her. Uncertain +whether his guess in stopping me was lucky, he began pulling nervously +at a bleached moustache. His paw was the colour of leather. Its nails +were broken and stained with tar. + +"Can't you get work?" I suggested. "Why don't you go to sea?" + +This deliberately unfair question shook his upright confidence in +himself, and perhaps convinced him that he had, after all, stopped a +fool. He took his cap off, and flung a shower from it--it had been +draining into his moustache--and asked whether I did not think he +looked poor enough for a sailor. + +Then I heard how he came to be there. Two days before he had signed +the articles of the steamship _Bilbao_. His box had gone aboard, and +that contained all his estate. The skipper, to be sure of his man, had +taken care of his discharge book, and so was in possession of the only +proof of his identity. Then he left the shipping office, and met some +friends. + +Those friends! "That was a fine girl," he said, speaking more to the +rain than to me. "I never seen a finer." I began to show signs of +moving away. "Don't go, mister. She was all right. I lay you never +seen a finer. Look here. I reckon you know her." He plunged an eager +hand into an inner pocket. "Ever heard of Angel Light? She's on the +stage. It's a fact. She showed me her name herself on a programme +last night. There y'are." He triumphed with a photograph, and his +gnarled forefinger pointed at an exposed set of teeth under an +extraordinary hat. "Eh, ain't that all right? On the stage, too. Met +her at the corner of Pennyfields." + +It was still raining. He flung another shower from his cap. I was +impatient, but he took my lapel confidentially. "Guv'nor," he said, +"if I could find the swab as took my money, I lay I'd make him look so +as his own mother 'ud turn her back on him. I would. Ten quid." + +He had, it appeared, lost those friends. He was now seeking, with +varying emotions, both the girl and the swab. I suggested the dock and +his ship would be a better quest. No, it was no good, he said. He +tried that late last night. Both had gone. The policeman at the gate +told him so. The dock was there again this morning, but a different +policeman; and whatever improbable world the dock and the policeman of +midnight had visited, there they had left his ship, inaccessible, +tangled hopelessly in a revolving mesh of saloon lights and collapsing +streets. Now he had no name, no history, no character, no money, and +he was hungry. + +We went into a coffee-shop. It stands at the corner of the street +which is opposite the _Steam Packet_ beerhouse. You may recognize the +place, for it is marked conspicuously as a good pull-up for carmen, +though then the carmen were taking their vans steadily past it. The +buildings of a shipwright's yard stand above it, and the hammers of the +yard beat with a continuous rhythmic clangour which recedes, when you +are used to it, till it is only the normal pulse of life in your ears. +The time was three in the afternoon. The children were at school, and +alone the men of the iron-yard made audible the unseen life of the +place. We had the coffee-shop to ourselves. On the counter a jam roll +was derelict. Some crumpled and greasy newspapers sprawled on the +benches. The outcast squeezed into a corner of a bench, and a stout +and elderly matron appeared, drying her bare arms on her apron, and +looked at us with annoyance. My friend seized her hand, patted it, and +addressed her in terms of extravagant endearment. She spoke to him +about that. But food came; and as he ate--how he ate!--I waited, +looking into my own mug of tepid brown slop at twopence the pint. +There was a racing calendar punctuated with dead flies, and a picture +in the dark by the side of the door of Lord Beaconsfield, with its +motto: "For God, King, and Country"; and there was a smell which comes +of long years of herrings cooked on a gas grill. At last the hungry +child had finished scraping his plate and wiping his moustache with his +hands. He brought out a briar pipe, and a pouch of hairy skin, and +faded behind a blue cloud. From behind the cloud he spoke at large, +like a confident disreputable Jove who had been skylarking for years +with the little planet Earth. + +At a point in his familiar reminiscences my dwindling interest +vanished, and I noticed again, through the window, the house fronts of +the place I knew once, when Poplar was salt. The lost sailor himself +was insignificant. What was he? A deck hand; one who tarred iron, and +could take a trick at the wheel when some one was watching him. The +place outside might have been any dismal neighbourhood of London. Its +character had gone. + +The tap-tapping on iron plates in the yard next door showed where we +were today. The sailor was silent for a time, and we listened together +to the sound of rivets going home. "That's right," said the outcast. +"Make them bite. Good luck to the rivets. What yard is that?" I told +him. + +"What? I didn't know it was about here. That place! Well, it's a +good yard, that. They're all right. I was on a steamer that went in +there, one trip. She wanted it, too. You could put a chisel through +her. But they only put in what they were paid for, not what she +wanted. The old _Starlight_. She wouldn't have gone in then but for a +bump she got. Do you know old Jackson? Lives in Foochow Street round +about here somewhere. He's lived next to that pub in Foochow Street +for years and years. He was the old man of the _Starlight_. He's a +sailor all right, is Jackson. + +"The last trip I had with him was ten months ago. The _Starlight_ came +in here to the West Dock with timber. She had to go into dry-dock, and +I signed on for her again when she was ready. This used to be my home, +Poplar, before I married that Cardiff woman. Do you know Poplar at +all? Poplar's all right. We went over to Rotterdam for something or +other, but sailed from there light, for Fowey. We loaded about three +thousand tons of china clay for Baltimore. + +"The sea got up when we were abreast of the Wolf that night, and she +was a wet ship. 'We're running into it,' said old Jackson to the mate. +I was at the wheel. 'Look out, and call me if I'm wanted.'" + +The man pushed his plate away, and leaned towards me, elbows on the +table, putting close his flat and brutish face, with his wet hair +plastered over all the brow he had. He appeared to be a little drowsy +with food. "Ever crossed the Western ocean in winter? Sometimes +there's nothing in it. But when it's bad there's no word for it. +There was our old bitch, filling up for'ard every time she dropped, and +rolling enough to shift the boilers. We reckoned something was coming +all right. Then when it began to blow, from dead ahead, the old man +wouldn't ease her. That was like old Jackson. It makes you think of +your comfortable little home, watching them big grey-backs running by +your ship, and no hot grub because the galley's flooded. The Wolf was +only two days behind us, and we had all the way to go. It was lively, +guv'nor. The third night I was in with the cook helping him to get +something for the men. They'd been roping her hatches. The covers +were beginning to come adrift, y'understand. The cook, he was slipping +about, grousing all round. Then she stopped dead, and the lights went +out. Something swept right over us with a hell of a rush, and I felt +the deck give under my feet. The galley filled with water. 'Christ, +she's done,' shouted the cook. + +"We scrambled out. It was too dark to see anything, but we could hear +the old man shouting. The engines had stopped. I fell over some +wreckage." The sailor stroked his nose. "This is what it did. + +"Next morning you wouldn't have known the old _Starlight_. All her +boats had gone, and she had a list to port like a roof. You wanted to +be a bird to get about her. The crowd looked blue enough when they saw +the falls flying around at daylight, and only bits of boats. It was a +case. Every time she lay down in the trough, and a sea went over her +solid, we watched her come up again. She took her time about it. + +"The engineers were at it below, trying to get her clear. They had the +donkey going. In the afternoon we sighted a steamer's smoke to +westward. She bore down on us. I never seen anything I liked better +than that. Then the Chief came up, and I saw him talking to the old +man. The old man climbed round to us. 'Now, lads,' he said, 'there's +a Cunarder coming. But the engineer says he reckons he's getting her +clear of water. What about it? Shall I signal the liner, or will you +stand by her?' + +"We let the Cunarder go. I watched her out of sight. We hung around, +and just about sunset the Chief came up again. I heard what he said. +'It's overhauling us fast, sir,' he said to the old man. The old man, +he stood looking down at the deck. Nobody said anything for a spell. +Then a fireman shot through a companion on all fours, scrambled to the +bulwarks, and looked out. He began cursing the sun, shaking his fist +at it every time it popped over the seas. It was low down. It was +funny to hear him. 'So long, chaps,' he said, and dropped overside. + +"We waited all night. I couldn't sleep, what with the noise of the +seas running over us, and waiting for something to happen. It was +perishing cold, too. At sun-up I could see she might pitch under at +any time. She was about awash. The old man came to me and the +steward, and said: 'Give the men all the gin they'll drink. Fill 'em +up.' Some of 'em took it. I never knew a ship take such a hell of a +time to sink as that one. + +"I sighted the steamer, right ahead, and we wondered whether the iron +under us would wait till she come. We counted every roller that went +over us. The other steamer was a slow ship all right. But she came +up, and put out her boats. We had to lower the drunks into them. I +left in the last boat with the old man. 'Jim,' he said, looking at her +as we left her, 'she's got no more than five minutes now. I just felt +her drop. Something's given way.' Before we got to the other ship we +saw the _Starlight's_ propeller in the air. Right on end. Yes. I +never seen anything like that--and then she just went . . ." + +The sailor made a grimace at me and nodded. From the shipwright's next +door the steady, continuous hammering in the dry-dock was heard again, +as though it had been waiting, and were now continuing the yarn. + + + + +X. Off-Shore + +1 + +For weeks our London days had been handmade with gas and oil. It was a +winter of the kind when the heaven of the capital is a brown obscurity +not much above the highest reached by the churches, and a December more +years before the War then it would be amusing to count. There was enough +of the sun in that morning to light my way down Mark Lane, across Great +Tower Street to Billingsgate. I was on my way to sea for the first time, +but that fortune was as incredible to me as the daylight. And as to the +daylight, the only certainty in it was its antiquity. It was a gloom +that was not only because the year was exhausted, but because darkness +was falling at the end of an epoch. It was not many years before the +War, to be a little more precise, though then I was unaware of the reason +of the darkness, except common fog. + +Besides, why should a Londoner, and even an East-Ender whose familiar +walls are topped by mastheads, believe in the nearness of the ocean? We +think of the shipping no more than we do of the paving stones or of the +warnings of the pious. It is an event of the first importance to go for +a first voyage, though mine was to be only by steam-trawler to the Dogger +Bank; yet, as the event had come to me so late, I had lost faith in the +omens of London's foreshore, among which, at the bottom of Mark Lane, was +an Italian baking chestnuts over a coke fire. The fog, and the slops, +and the smell by Billingsgate, could have been tokens of no more than a +twopenny journey to Shepherd's Bush. I had believed in the signs so +little that I had left my bag at a railway station, miles away. + +Three small steamers, the size of tugs, but with upstanding bows and a +sheer suggesting speed and buoyancy, were lying off the fish market, and +mine, the _Windhover_, had the outside berth. I climbed over to her. +Blubber littered her iron deck, and slime drained along her gutters. +Black grits showered from her stack. The smell from her galley, and the +heat from her engine-room casing, were challenging to a stranger. It was +no place for me. The men and porters tramping about their jobs knew +that, and did not order me out of their way. This was Billingsgate, and +there was a tide to be caught. They hustled me out of it. But the +skipper had to be found, for I must know when I had to come aboard. A +perpendicular iron ladder led to her saloon from a hatch, and through +unintelligence and the dark I entered that saloon more precipitously than +was a measure of my eagerness, picked myself up with a coolness which I +can only hope met with the approval of some silent men, watching me, who +sat at a table there, and offered my pass to the man nearest me. + +It was the mate. He scrutinized the simple document at unnecessary +length, and with a gravity that was embarrassing. He turned up slowly a +large and weather-beaten sadness, with a grizzled moustache that curled +tightly into his mouth from under a long, thin nose which pointed at me +like a finger. His heavy eyes might have been melancholy or only tired, +and they regarded me as if they sought on my face what they could not +find on my document. I thought he was searching me for the proof of my +sanity. Presently he spoke: "Have you _got_ to come?" he said, and in a +gentle voice that was disconcerting from a figure so masculine. While I +was wondering what was hidden in this question, the ship's master entered +the saloon briskly. He was plump and light. His face was a smooth round +of unctuous red, without a beard, and was mounted upon many folds of +brown woollen scarf, like an attractive pudding on a platter. He looked +at me with amusement, as I have no doubt those lively eyes, with their +brows of arched interest, looked at everything; and his thick grey hair +was curved upwards in a confusion of interrogation marks. + +He chuckled. "This is not a passenger ship," he said. "That will have +to be your berth." He pointed to a part of the saloon settee which was +about six feet forward and above the propeller. "A sou'-wester washed +out our only spare cabin, comin' in. There you are." He began to climb +the ladder out of it again, but stopped, and put his rosy face under the +lintel of the door. "You've got twenty minutes now. Get your luggage +aboard." + +My bag was where it could not be reached in twenty minutes. Roughing it +may have its humours, but to suffer through it, as I was aware I must, if +I stayed, would more than outweigh the legitimate interest of a first +voyage, except for heroic youth with its gift of eternal life. Simple +ignorance, as usual, made me heroic. I went on deck, and found the +steward sitting on a box, with a bucket of sprats before him, tearing off +their heads, and then throwing the bodies contemptuously into another +bucket. The ends of his fingers and thumbs were pink and bright, and +were separated from the remainder of his dark hands by margins of +glittering scales. He compared to me, as he beheaded the fish, the girls +of Hull and London. But what I knew of the girls of but one city was so +meagre in comparison that I could only listen to his particulars in +silent surprise. It was notable that a man like that, who pulled the +heads and guts of fish like that, should have acquired a knowledge so +peculiar, so personal, of the girls of two cities. While considering +whether what at first looked like the mystery of this problem might not +be in reality its clue, I became aware of another listener. Its lean and +dismal length was disproportionate to that small ship. It had on but +dungarees and a singlet, and the singlet, because of the length of the +figure, was concave at the stomach, where, having nothing to rest upon, +it was corrugated through the weight of a head made brooding by a heavy +black beard. Hairy wrists were thrust deeply into the pockets to hold up +the trousers. The dome of its head was as bald and polished as yellow +metal. The steward introduced me to the Chief Engineer. "Yon's a dirty +steward," returned the Chief simply. + +"Clean enough for this ship," said the Steward. + +"Aye," sighed the engineer, "aye!" + +"Have you been to the Queen's Hall lately?" asked the Chief of me. "I +should like to hear some Beethoven or Mozart tonight. Aye, but we're +awa'. It'll be yon sprats." He sighed his affirmative again in +resignation, and stood regarding the steward bending over the pails on +the deck. "What make ye," he asked, "of this war between the Japs and +Russia? Come awa' doon, and have a bit talk. I canna' look at that +man's hands and argue reasonable. It'd no be fair to ye." + +We could not have that argument then, for I had so little time to go +ashore and purchase what necessaries could be remembered while narrowly +watching the clock. I was astride the bulwarks again when the +_Windhover_ was free of her moorings. There was a lack of deliberation +and dignity in this departure which gave it the appearance of +improvisation, of not being the real thing. I could not believe it +mattered whether I went or not. My first voyage had, that is, those +common circumstances which always make our crises incredible when they +face us, as if they had met us by accident, in mistake for some one else. +The bascules of the Tower Bridge went up, this time to let out me. Yet +that significant gesture, obviously made to my ship, was watched with an +indifference which was little better than cynicism. What was this city, +past which we moved? In that haze it was only the fading impress of what +once was there, of what once had overlooked the departure of voyagers, +when on memorable journeys, in famous ships. Now it had almost gone. It +had seen its great days. There was nothing more to watch upon its River, +and so it was going. And was an important voyage ever made by one who +had forgotten his overcoat? The steward rose, raised his bucket of fish +offal, emptied it overboard, and went below. It was not easy to believe +that such a voyage could come to anything, for London itself was +intangible, and when we got past those heavier shades which were the +city, and were running along the Essex marshes, though there was more +light, there was nothing to be seen, not even land substantial enough to +be a shadow. There was only the length of our own ship. Our pilot left +us, and we felt our way to the Lower Hope, a place I could have accepted +if it had not been on the chart, and anchored. + +Night came, and drove me below to the saloon, where we made five who sat +with the sprats, now fried, and mugs of tea before us. The saloon was +the hollow stern, a triangle with a little fireplace in its base, and +four bunks in its sides. Its centre was filled with a triangular table, +over which, pendent from the skylight, was an oil-lamp in chains. A +settee ran completely round the sides, and on that one sat for meals, and +used it as a step when climbing into a bunk. The skipper cheerily hailed +me. "As you're in for it, make yourself comfortable. Sorry we can't do +more than give you the seat to sleep on. But the chief thing in this +ship is fish. Try some sprats." + +"Aye, try yon sprats," invited the Chief. "Ye'll get to like them well, +in time." After the fish there was cards, in which I took no hand, but +regarded four bent heads, so intent they might have been watching a +ritual of magic which might betray their fate; and, above those heads, +motionless blue cirrus clouds of tobacco smoke wreathing the still lamp. +The hush was so profound that we could have been anchored beyond the +confines of this life. + + +2 + +What the time was next morning when I woke I do not know, for the saloon +was too dark to show the clock, over the fireplace. But the skylight was +a pale cube of daylight, and through it I could see a halyard quivering +and swaying, apparently in a high wind. My bench was in a continuous +tremor. + +We were off again. Somebody appeared at the doorway, a pull of cotton +waste in his hand, and turned a negroid face, made lugubrious by white +lines which sweat had channelled downwards through its coal dust. It +looked at me, this spectre with eyes brilliant yet full of unutterable +reproach, saw that I was awake, and winked slowly. It was the second +engineer. He said it was a clear morning. We had been under way an +hour. He had got sixty revolutions now. He then receded into the gloom +beyond; but materialized again, or, to be exact, the white stare of two +disembodied eyes appeared, and the same voice said that it had won +seventeen and six-pence last night, but there was something funny about +the way the skipper shuffled cards. + +Feeling as though I were in one piece, I got up, made my joints bend +again, and went on deck. Our ship, tilting at the immobile world, might +have upset the morning, which was pouring a bath of cold air over us. +The overcoat of the skipper, who was pacing the bridge, flapped in this +steady current. A low coast was dim on either hand, hardly superior to +the flawless glass of the Thames. By the look of it, we were the first +ever to break the tranquillity of that stream. We ourselves made +scarcely a sound; we could have been attempting a swift, secret and, so +far, unchallenged escape. The shores unfolded in a panorama without +form. Once we spun past an anchored ship, or what had been a ship before +the world congealed to this filmed crystal, but now it was a frail ghost +shrouded in the still folds of diaphanous night, its riding lights +following us like eyes. In the horny light of that winter dawn we +overhauled, one after another, the lamps of the Thames estuary, the +Chapman, the Nore, and the Mouse, and dropped them astern. We made a +course east by north to where the red glints of the Maplin and Gunfleet +lights winked in their iron gibbets. Above the shallows of the Burrows +Shoal the masts projected awry of the wreck of a three-masted schooner, +and they could have been the fingers of the drowned making a last clutch +at nothing. + +We got abreast of Orfordness, and went through the gate of the North +Channel upon a wide grey plain. We were fairly at sea. We were out. +The _Windhover_, being free, I suppose, began to dance. The sun came up. +The seas were on the march. Just behind us was London, asleep and +unsuspecting under the brown depression of its canopy; and as to this +surprise of light and space so near to that city, so easily entered, yet +for so long merely an ancient rumour, an old tale of our streets to which +the ships and the wharves gave credence--how shall the report of it sound +true? Not at all, except to those who still hold to a faith, through all +foul times, in the chance hints of a better world. + +A new time was beginning in such a world. There was a massive purple +battlement on the sea, at a great distance, the last entrenchment of +night; but a multitude of rays had stormed it, poured through clefts and +chasms in the wall, and escaped to the _Windhover_ on a broad road that +was newly laid from the sky to this planet. The sun was at one end of +the road, and we were at the other. There were only the two of us on +that road. On our port beam the shadow which was East Anglia became +suddenly that bright shore which is sometimes conjectured, but is never +reached. + +The _Windhover_ drove athwart the morning, and her bows would ride over +the horizon to divide it, and then the skyline joined again as she sank +below it. We were beginning to live. I did not know what the skipper +would think of it, so I did not cheer. Sometimes the sea did this for +me, making a loud applause as it leaped over the prow. The trawler was a +good ship; you could feel that. She was as easy and buoyant as a +thoroughbred. She would take a wave in a stride. I liked her start of +surprise when she met a wave of unexpected speed and strength, and then +leaped at it, and threw it, white and shouting, all around us. It was +that part of a first voyage when you feel you were meant to be a +navigator. To stand at the end of the bridge, rolling out over the +cataracts roaring below, and to swing back, and out again, watching the +ship's head decline into a hollow of the seas, and then to clutch the +saddle as she reared with a sudden twist and swing above the horizon, and +in such a vast and illuminated theatre, was to awake to a new virtue in +life. We were alone there. There were only comets of smoke on the +bright wall of the sky, of steamers out of sight. + +At sunset we made Smith's Knoll Light, and dropped the land. The cluster +of stars astern, which was a fleet of Yarmouth herring boats at work, +went out in the dark. I had, for warmth and company in the wheel-house +on the bridge, while listening to the seas getting up, only signals from +Orion and the Great Bear, the glow of the pipe of the silent fellow at +the wheel, and the warm shaft of light which streamed from somewhere in +the ship's body and isolated the foremast as a column of gold. There was +the monody, confident but subdued, the most ancient song in the world, of +invisible waters. Sometimes there was a shock when she dropped into a +hollow, and a vicious shower whipped across the glass of the wheel-house. +I then got the sad feeling, much too soon, that the inhospitable North +was greeting us. It is after sundown at sea, when looking through the +dark to the stars, listening to sounds that are as though ancient waters +were still wandering under a sky in which day has not been kindled, +seeking coasts not yet formed, it is in such nights that one's thoughts +are of destiny, and then the remembrance of our late eager activities +brings a little smile. There being no illumination in the wheel-house +but the restricted glow from the binnacle, this silent comment of mine on +man and his fate caused the helmsman no amusement. "I hope you are +bringing us luck this trip," said the sailor to me. "Last trip we got a +poor catch. I don't know where the fish have got to." Somewhere, +north-east about two hundred miles, was the fleet which, if I were the +right sort of mascot to the Windhover, we should pick up on the evening +of the next day. + + +3 + +When I left the wheel-house to go below, it was near midnight. As I +opened the heavy door of the house the night howled aloud at my +appearance. The night smelt pungently of salt and seaweed. The +hand-rail was cold and wet. The wind was like ice in my nose, and it +tasted like iron. Sometimes the next step was at a correct distance +below my feet; and then all that was under me would be swept away. I +descended into the muffled saloon, which was a little box enclosing light +and warmth partially submerged in the waters. There it smelt of hot +engine-oil and stale clothes. I got used to the murmuring transit of +something which swept our outer walls in immense bounds, and the flying +grind of the propeller, and the bang-clang of the rudder when it was +struck . . . and must have gone to sleep. . . . + +When I woke, it was because the saloon in my dreams had gone mad. +Perhaps it had been going mad for some time. Really I was not fully +awake--it was four in the morning, the fire was out, and violent draughts +kept ballooning the blanket over me--and in another minute I might have +become quite aware that I had gone to sea for the first time. It was my +bench which properly woke me. It fell away from me, and I, of course, +went after it, and my impression is that I met it halfway on its return +journey, for then there came the swooning sensation one feels in the +immediate ascent of a lift. When the bench was as high as it could go it +overbalanced, canting acutely, and, grabbing my blanket, I left +diagonally for a corner of the saloon, accompanied by some sea-boots I +met under the table. As I was slowly and carefully climbing back, the +floor reversed, and I stopped falling when my head struck a panel. The +panel slid gently along, and the mate's severe countenance regarded me +from inside the bunk. I expected some remonstrance from a tired man who +had been unfairly awakened too soon. "Hurt yourself?" he asked. "It's +getting up outside. Dirty weather. Take things easy." + +I took them as easily as perhaps should be expected of a longshoreman. +There was no more sleep, though no more was wanted. By putting out my +hand to the table I managed to keep where I was, even when, in those +moments of greatest insecurity, the screw was roaring in mid-air. Our +fascinating hanging lamp would perform the impossible, hanging acutely +out of plumb; and then, when I was watching this miracle, rattle its +chain and hang the other way. A regiment of boots on the floor--I +suppose it was boots--would tramp to one corner, remain quiet for a +while, and then clatter elsewhere in a body. Towards daybreak the +skipper appeared in shining oilskins, tapped the barometer, glanced at +me, and laughed because my pillow--which was a linen bag stuffed with old +magazines--at that moment became lower than my heels, and the precipitous +rug tried to smother me. I enjoyed that laugh. + +Later still, I saw that our dark skylight was beginning to regain its +sight. Light was coming through. Our lunatic saloon lamp was growing +wan. I ventured on deck. When my face was no more than out of the +hatch, what I saw was our ship's stern upturned before me, with our boat +lashed to it. It dropped out of view instantly, and exposed the blurred +apparition of a hill in pursuit of us--the hill ran in to run over +us--and in that very moment of crisis the slope of wet deck appeared +again, and the lashed boat. The cold iron was wet and slippery, but I +grasped it firmly, as though that were an essential condition of +existence in such a place. + +The _Windhover_, too, looked so small. She was diminished. She did not +bear herself as buoyantly as yesterday. Often she was not quick enough +to escape a blow. She looked a forlorn trifle, and there was no aid in +sight. I cannot say those hills, alive and deliberate on all sides, were +waves. They were the sea. The dawn astern was a narrow band of dead +white, an effort at daybreak suddenly frustrated by night, but not +altogether expunged. The separating black waters bulked above the dawn +in regular upheavals, shutting out its pallor, and as incontinently +collapsed again to release it to make the _Windhover_ plainer in her +solitude. + +The skipper waddled briskly aft, and stood beside me. He put his nose +inside the galley. "I smell coffee," he said. His charge reared, and +pitched him against the bulwarks. "Whoa, you bitch," he cried +cheerfully. "Our fleet ought not to be far off," he explained. "Ought +to see something of them soon." He glanced casually round the emptinesss +of the dawn. He might have been looking for some one with whom he had +made an appointment at Charing Cross. He then backed into the hatch and +went below. The big mate appeared, yawned, stooped to examine a lashed +spar, did not give the sunrise so much as a glance, did not allow the +ocean to see that he was even aware of its existence, but went forward to +the bridge. + +The clouds lowered during the morning, and through that narrowed space +between the sea and the sky the wind was forced at a greater pace, +dragging rain over the waters. Our fleet might have been half a mile +away, and we could have gone on, still looking for it. The day early +surrendered its light, a dismal submission to conditions that had made +its brief existence a failure. It had nearly gone when we sighted +another trawler. She was the _Susie_. She was smaller than the +_Windhover_. We went close enough to hail the men standing knee-deep in +the wash on her deck. It would not be easy to forget the _Susie_. I +shall always see her, at the moment when our skipper began to shout +through his hands at her. She was poised askew, in that arrested +instant, on a glassy slope of water, with its crest foaming above her. +Surge blotted her out amid-ships, and her streaming forefoot jutted +clear. She plunged then into the hollow between us, showing us the plan +of her deck, for her funnel was pointing at us. Her men bawled to us. +They said the _Susie_ had sighted nothing. + +Our engine-bell rang for us to part company. Our little friend dropped +astern. She seemed a poor little thing, with a squirt of steam to keep +her alive in that stupendous and hurrying world. A man on her raised his +arm to us in salute, and she vanished. + + +4 + +The talk of our skipper, who began to be preoccupied and abrupt veered to +the subject of Jonah. We should now have been with our fleet, but were +alone in the wilderness, and any course we took would be as likely as +another. "This hasn't happened to me for years," he apologized. He +stared about him, tapping the weather-dodger with his fingers, and +whistled reflectively. He turned to the man at the wheel. "Take her +east for an hour, and then north for an hour," and went below. + +Day returned briefly at sunset. It was an astonishing gift. The clouds +rapidly lifted and the sky cleared, till the sea extended far to a bright +horizon, hard and polished, a clear separation of our planet and heaven. +The waves were still ponderous. The _Windhover_ laboured heavily. We +rolled over the bright slopes aimlessly. She would rear till the forward +deck stuck up in front of us, then drop over, flinging us against the +dodger, and the shock would surround her with foam that was an eruption +of greenish light. + +The sun was a cold rayless ball halved by the dark sea. The wall of +heaven above it was flushed and translucent marble. There was a silver +paring of moon in a tincture of rose. When the sun had gone, the place +it had left was luminous with saffron and mauve, and for a brief while we +might have been alone in a vast hall with its crystalline dome penetrated +by a glow that was without. The purple waters took the light from above +and the waves turned to flames. The fountains that mounted at the bows +and fell inboard came as showers of gems. (I heard afterwards it was +still foggy in London.) And now, having made all I can of sunset and +ocean, and a spray of amethysts, jacinths, emeralds, zircons, rubies, +peridots, and sapphires, it is no longer possible for me to avoid the +saloon, the thought of which, for an obscure reason, my mind loathed. + +And our saloon, compared with the measure of the twilight emptiness now +about us, was no bigger than the comfort a man feels amid mischance when +he remembers that he is still virtuous. The white cloth on its table, I +noticed, as I sat down, was contaminated by a long and sinful life. But +the men round it were good and hearty. I took my share of ham and fish +on the same plate, and began to feel not so hungry as before. I was +informed that ashore we are too particular about trifles, because we have +the room for it, but on a trawler there is not much room. You have to +squeeze together, and make do with what is there, because fish is the +most important passenger. My hunk of bread was placed where the cloth +bore the imprint of a negro's hand. The mugs of tea were massive, and +sweetish (I could smell that) with condensed milk. Did I want my tea? I +noticed there were two men between me and the exit, and no room to pass. +The room was hot. The bench was rising and falling. My soul felt pale +and faintly apprehensive, compelling me, now I was beset, to take hold of +it firmly, and to tell it that this was not the time to be a miserable +martyr, but a coarse brute; and that, whether it liked it or not, I was +going to feed at once on fish, ham, and sickly liquor, and heaven help us +if it failed me before these sailors. It made no response, being a thin +nonconformist soul, so I had to leave it, and alone I advanced on the +food. As so often happens, the conquest was a little less hard than it +appeared to be. I progressed, though slowly, and at last was +sufficiently disengaged from my task to count the minutes moving at their +funeral pace to the end of the meal. The heat of the room mounted. The +movements of the ship continued to throw my stomach against the edge of +the table. + +My companions, however, were in no hurry to move. They discussed, among +other things, Hull, and its unfortunate system of sanitation. While this +gossip, which was explicit with exuberant detail, was engaging us, I +summoned my scientific mind, which is not connected with my soul, to +listen to what was being said, and the rest of me was deaf. They went on +to tell each other about other trawlers and other crews. Other ships and +men, I heard, had most of the luck. "The fish follow some of 'em about," +complained the skipper. "I should like to know how it's done." + +"They ought to follow us," replied the second engineer. "When I went +down to take over this morning, Mac was singing Scotch songs. What more +could we do below?" + +"It's a grand life," nodded his superior's polished bald head. "Aye, +there's guid reason for singing. Sing to yon codfish, y'ken." + +The skipper looked at the engineer in doubtful innocence. "Well, I wish +singing would do it," he said gravely. "I don't know. How do you +account for some fellows getting most of the luck? Their ships are the +same, and they don't know any more." + +Mac shook his head. "The owners think they do. There's their big +catches, y'ken. Ye'll no convince owners that the sea bottom isna' wet +and onsairten." + +The rosy face of the skipper became darker, and there was a spark in his +eyes. This was unfair. "But dammit, man, you don't mean to say the +owners are right? Do these chaps know any more? Look at old Rumface, +old Billy Higgs. Got enough women to make him hate going into any port. +Can't be happy ashore unless he's too drunk to know one woman from +another. What does he do? Can't go to sea without taking his trawler +right over all the fish there is. Is that his sense? Ain't God good to +him? Shows him the fish every time." + +The engineer stood up, bending his head beneath a beam, crooking an elbow +to consider one hairy arm. "Ah weel, I wouldna call it God. Ye canna +tell. Man Billy has his last trip to make. Likely he'll catch fish +that'd frighten Hull. Aye." + +The skipper moved impatiently, made noises in his throat, rose, and both +went out. The mate, who had been chewing and looking at nothing all the +time, chuckled. + +The mate pulled off his big boots, and climbed into his bunk. The +steward cleared the table. I had the saloon to myself, and tried to read +from a magazine I extracted from my pillow. The first story was +rollicking of the sea, and I have never seen more silly or such dreary +lies in print. And the others were about women, magazine women, and the +land, that magazine land which is not of this earth. The bench still +heaved, and there was a new smell of sour pickles. I think a jar had +upset in a store cupboard. Perhaps I should feel happier in the +wheel-house. It was certain the wheel-house would not smell of vinegar, +boots, and engine oil. It would have its own disadvantages--it would be +cold and damp--and the wind and seas on the lively deck had to be faced +on the way to it. The difficulty there is in placing the second course +on London's cosy dinner-tables began to surprise me. + +Our wooden shelter, the wheel-house, is ten feet above the deck, with +windows through which I could look at the night, and imagine the rest. I +had, to support me, the mono-syllabic skipper and a helmsman with nothing +to say. I saw one of them when, drawing hard on his pipe, its glow +outlined a bodyless face. The wheel chains rattled in their channels. +There was a clang when a sea wrenched the rudder. I clung to a +window-strap, flung back to look upwards through a window which the ship +abruptly placed above my head, then thrown forward to see wreaths of +water speeding below like ghosts. The stars jolted back and forth in +wide arcs. There were explosions at the bows, and the ship trembled and +hesitated. Occasionally the skipper split the darkness with a rocket, +and we gazed round the night for an answer. The night had no answer to +give. We were probably nearing the North Pole. About midnight, the +silent helmsman put away his pipe, as a preliminary to answering a +foolish question of mine, and said, "Sometimes it happens. It's bound +to. You can see for ye'self. They're little things, these trawlers. +Just about last Christmas--wasn't it about Christmas-time, Skipper?--the +_Mavis_ left the fleet to go home. Boilers wrong. There was one of our +hands, Jim Budge, who was laid up, and he reckoned he'd better get home +quick. So he joined her. We were off the Tail of the Dogger, and it +blew that night. Next morning Jim's mate swore Jim's bunk had been laid +in. It was wet. He said the _Mavis_ had gone. I could see the bunk was +wet all right, but what are ventilators for? Chance it, the _Mavis_ +never got home. A big sea to flood the engine-room, and there she goes." + + +5 + +After the next daybreak time stood still--or rather, I refused to note +its passage. For that morning I made out the skipper, drenched with +spray, and his eyes bloodshot, no doubt through weariness and the +weather, watching me from the saloon doorway. I did not ask any +questions, but pretended I was merely turning in my sleep. It is +probably better not to ask the man who has succeeded in losing you where +you are, particularly when his eyes are bloodshot and he is wondering +what the deuce he shall do about it. And greater caution still is +required when his reproachful silence gives you the idea that he thinks +you a touch of ill-luck in his enterprise. My companions, I believe, +regretted I had not been omitted. I tried, therefore, to be +inconspicuous, and went up to seclude myself at the back of the boat on +the poop, there to understudy a dog which is sorry it did it. Not +adverse fate itself could show a more misanthropic aspect than the empty +overcast waste around us. It was useless to appeal to it. It did +vouchsafe us one ship that morning, a German trawler with a fir tree +lashed to her deck, ready for Christmas morning, I suppose, when perhaps +they would tie herrings to its twigs. But she was no good to us. And +the grey animosity granted us three others during the afternoon, and they +were equally useless, for they had not sighted our fleet for a week. All +that interested me was the way the lookout on the bridge picked out a +mark, which I could not see, for it was obscured where sea and sky were +the same murk, and called it a ship. Long before I could properly +discern it, the look-out behaved as though he knew all about it. But it +was never the sign we wanted. We had changed our course so often that I +was beginning to believe that nobody aboard could make a nearer guess at +our position than the giddy victim in blindman's-buff. A sextant was +never used. Apparently these fishermen found their way about on a little +mental arithmetic compounded of speed, time, and the course. That leaves +a large margin for error. So if they felt doubtful they got a plummet, +greased it, and dipped it overboard. When it was hauled up they +inspected whatever might be sticking to the tallow, and at once announced +our position. At first I felt sceptical. It was as though one who had +got lost with you in London might pick up a stone in an unknown +thoroughfare, and straightway announce the name of that street. That +would be rather clever. But I discovered my fishermen could do something +like it. + +Our skipper no longer appeared at meals. He was on the bridge day and +night. He acted quite well a pose of complete indifference, and said no +more than: "This has not happened to me for years." He repeated this +slowly at reasonable intervals. But he had lost the nimble impulse to +chat about little things, and also his look of peering and innocent +curiosity. As now he did not come to our table, the others spoke of +Billingsgate carriers, such as ours, which had driven about the Dogger +till there was no more in the bunkers than would take them to Hull to get +more coal. From the way they spoke I gathered they would crawl into +port, in such circumstances, without flags, and without singing. This +gave my first trip an appearance I had never expected. Imagination, +which is clearly of little help in geography, had always pictured the +Dogger as a sea where you could hail another trawler as you would a cab +in London. A vessel might reasonably expect to find there a fish-trunk +it had left behind. But here we were with our ship plunging round the +compass merely expectant of luck, and each wave looking exactly like the +others, + +But at last we had them. We spoke a rival fleet of trawlers. Their +admiral cried through a speaking-trumpet that he had left "ours" at six +that morning twenty miles NNE., steaming west. It was then eleven +o'clock. Hopefully the _Windhover_ put about. We held on for three +hours at full speed, but saw nothing but the same waves. The skipper +then rather violently addressed the Dogger, and said he was going below. +The mate asked what course he should steer. "Take the damned ship where +you like," said the skipper. "I'm going to sleep." He was away ten +minutes. He reappeared, and resumed his silent parade of the bridge. +The helmsman grinned at the mate. By then the wind had fallen, the seas +were more deliberate; there came a suffusion of thin sunlight, +insufficient and too late to expand our outlook, for the night began to +fill the hollows of the Dogger almost at once, and soon there was nothing +to be seen but the glimmer of breaking waves. + + +6 + +There is nothing to be done with an adventure which has become a misprise +than to enjoy it that way instead. What did I care when they complained +at breakfast of the waste of rockets the night before? What did that +matter to me when the skylight above our morning coffee was open at last, +really open? Fine weather for December! Across that patch of blue, +which was a peep into eternity, I saw drift a bird as white as sanctity. +And did it matter if the imprints on our tablecloth of negroes' thumbs +were more numerous and patent than ever, in such a light? Not in the +least. For I myself had long since given up washing, as a laborious and +unsatisfactory process, and was then cutting up cake tobacco with the +rapture of an acolyte preparing the incense. If this was what was meant +by getting lost on the Dogger, then the method, if only its magic could +be formulated, would make the fortunes of the professional fakirs of +happiness in the capitals of the rich. Yet mornings of such a quality +cannot be purchased, nor even claimed as the reward of virtue. + +On deck it was a regal day, leisurely, immense, and majestic. The wind +was steady and generous. The warm sunlight danced. I should not have +been surprised to have seen Zeus throned on the splendid summit of the +greatest of those rounded clouds, contemplative of us, finger on cheek, +smiling with approval of the scene below--melancholy approval, for we +would remind him of those halcyon days whose refulgence turned pale and +sickly when Paul, that argumentative zealot, came to provide a world, +already thinking more of industry and State politics than of the gods, +with a hard-wearing theology which would last till Manchester came. For +the _Windhover_ had drifted into a time and place as innocent of man's +highest achievements as is joy of death. The wind and sea were chanting. +The riding of the ship kept time to that measure. The vault was +turquoise, and the moving floor was cobalt. The white islands of the +Olympians were in the sky. + +Hour after hour our lonely black atom moved over that vast floor, with +nothing in sight, of course, in a day that had been left over from +earth's earlier and more innocent time, till a little cloud formed in the +north. That cloud did not rise. It blew towards us straight over the +seas, rigid and formless; becoming at last a barque under full sail, +heading east of south of us. She was, when at a distance, a baffling +mass of canvas, from which a square-sail occasionally heliographed. She +got abeam of us. Before the clippers have quite gone, it is proper to +give grace for the privilege of having seen one, superlative as the ship +of romance, and in such a time and place. She was a cloud that, when it +mounted the horizon like the others, instead of floating into the +meridian, moved over the seas to us, an immutable billow of luminous mist +blown forward on the wind. She might have risen at any moment. Her +green hull had the sheer of a sea hollow. Her bows pressed continually +onward, like the crest of a wave curving forward to break, but held, as +though enchanted. Sometimes, when her white mass heeled from us under +the pressure of the wind, a red light flashed from her submerged body. +She passed silently, a shining phantom, and at last vanished, as phantoms +do. + + +7 + +When the boots, exploded on the saloon floor by the petulant mate, woke +me, it was three of a morning which, for my part, was not in the almanac. +"We're bewitched," the mate said, climbing over me into his cupboard. "I +never thought I should want to see our fleet so much." + +"Aye," remarked the chief engineer, who came shuffling in then for some +sleep, "ye'll find that fleet quick, or the stokers are giving orders. +D'ye think a ship is driven by the man at the wheel? No' that I want to +smell Hull." + +A kick of the ship overturned the fireshovel, and I woke again to look +with surprise at so small a cause of a terrible sound, and was leaving +the shovel to its fate when it came to life, and began to crawl +stealthily over the floor. It was an imperative duty to rise and +imprison it. When that was forgotten the steward arrived, and roused me +to watch the method of setting a breakfast-table at sea; but I had seen +all that before, and climbed out of the saloon. There are moments in a +life afloat when the kennel and chain of the house-dog appear to have +their merits. The same wash was still racing past outside, and the ship +moving along. The halyards were shaking in the cold. The funnel was +still abruptly rocking. A sailor was painting the starboard stanchions. +A stoker was going forward off duty, in his shirt and trousers, +indifferent to the cruel wind which bulged and quivered his thin rags. +The skipper was on the bridge, his hands in the pockets of his flapping +overcoat, still searching the distance for what was not there. A train +of gulls was weaving about over our wake. A derelict fish-trunk floated +close to us, with a great black-backed gull perched on it. He cocked up +one eye at me when he drew level, crouched for flight, but perhaps saw on +my face the reason why I prefer working tomorrow, and contemptuously +stayed where he was. Then I noticed the skipper looking back at the +bird. He nodded to it, and cried: "There goes a milestone. The fleet is +about somewhere." I danced with caution along the treacherous deck, +where one day that voyage a sea picked up two men and stranded them on +top of the engine-room casing, and got up with the master. He had just +ordered the ship to be put over to a trawler in sight. With the seas so +swift and ponderous I completely forgot the cold wind in watching the two +lively ships being manoeuvred till they were within earshot. When the +engines were stopped the steering had to be nicely calculated, or erratic +waves brought them dangerously close, or else took them out of call. Our +new friend had not seen "our lot," but had left a fleet with an unknown +house-flag ten miles astern. We surged forward again. + +We steamed for two hours, and then the pattern of a trawler's smoke was +seen ahead traced on a band of greenish brilliance which divided the sea +from the sky. Almost at once other faint tracings multiplied there. In +a few minutes we could make out plainly within that livid narrow outlet +between the sea and the heavy clouds a concourse of midget ships. + +"There they are," breathed the skipper after a quick inspection through +his glasses. + +In half an hour we were in the midst of a fleet of fifty little steamers, +just too late to take our place as carrier to them for London's daily +market. As we steamed in, another carrier, which had left London after +us, hoisted her signal pennant, and took over that job. + +While still our ship was under way, boats put out from the surrounding +trawlers, and converged on us for our outward cargo, the empty +fish-trunks. That intense band of light which had first betrayed the +smoke of the fleet eroded upwards into the low, slaty roof of nimbus till +the gloom was dissolved to the zenith. The incubus vanished; the sun +flooded us. At last only white feathers were left in the sky. I felt I +had known and loved these trawlers for years. All round us were ships' +boats, riding those sweeping seas in a gyrating and delirious lunacy; and +in each were two jovial fishermen, who shouted separate reasons to our +skipper for "the week off" he had taken. + +These boats came at us like a swarm of assailants, swooping downhill on +us, swerving, recoiling, and falling away, rising swiftly above us again +for a charge, and then careering at us with abandon on the next declivity +of glass. A boat would hesitate above us, poised and rocking on the +snowy ridge of an upheaval, and vanish as the _Windhover_ canted away. +Then we rolled towards her, and there she was below us, in a smooth and +transient hollow. Watching for their chances, snatched out of luck by +skill and audacity, our men fed the clamorous boats with empties; the +boxes often fell just at the moment when the open boat was snatched away, +and then were swept off. The shouted jokes were broadened and +strengthened to fit that riot and uproar. This sudden robust life, +following the routine of our subdued company on its lonely and +disappointed vigils in a deserted sea, the cheery men countering and +mocking aloud the sly tricks of their erratic craft, a multitude of masts +and smoking funnels around us swaying in various arcs against a +triumphant sky, the clamorous desperation of clouds of wheeling +kittiwakes, herring-gulls, black-backed gulls and gannets, and all in +that pour of hard and crystalline northern sunlight, was as though the +creative word had been spoken only five minutes before. We, and all +this, had just come. I wanted to laugh and cheer. + + +8 + +There is, we know, a pleasure more refined to be got from looking at a +chart than from any impeccable modern map. Maps today are losing their +attraction, for they permit of no escape, even to fancy. Maps do not +allow us to forget that there are established and well-ordered +governments up to the shores of the Arctic Ocean, waiting to restrict, to +tax, and to punish us, and that their police patrol the tropical forests. +But consider the legends on a chart even of the North Sea, of the world +beneath the fathoms--the _Silver Pits_, the _Dowsing Ground_, the _Leman +Bank_, the _Great Fisher Ground_, the _Horn Reef_, the _Witch Ground_, +and the _Great Dogger Bank_! Strange, that indefinable implication of a +word! I remember that, when a child, I was awake one night listening to +a grandfather's clock talking quietly to itself in its long box, and a +brother sat up in bed and whispered: "Look, the Star in the East." I +turned, and one bright eye of the night was staring through the window. +Heaven knows into what profundity of ancestral darkness my brothers +whisper had fallen, nor what it stirred there, but an awe, or a fear, was +wakened in me which was not mine, for I remember I could not explain it, +even though, at the time, the anxious direct question was put to me. Nor +can I now. It would puzzle a psycho-analyst most assured of the right +system for indexing secret human motives to disengage one shadow from +another in an ancestral darkness. That is why I merely put down here the +names to be found on a chart of the North Sea, and say no more about it, +being sure they will mean nothing except to those to whom they mean +something. Those words, like certain moonbeams, which stir in us that +not ourselves which makes for righteousness, or lunacy, combine only by +chance. The combination which unlocks the secret cannot be stated, or it +would not work. When there is a fortuitous coincidence of the magic +factors, the result is as remarkable to us as it is to those who think +they know us. When I used to stand on London's foreshore, gazing to what +was beyond our street lamps, the names on the chart had a meaning for me +which is outside the usual methods of human communication. The Dogger +Bank! + +Here then it was, yet still to be seen only by faith. It was like Mrs. +Harris. I had the luck to discover that I should lose nothing through my +visit; and every traveller knows how much he gains when the place he has +wished to visit allows him to take away from it no less than what he +brought with him. The Bank was twenty fathoms under us. We saw it +proved at times when a little fine white sand came up, or fleshy yellow +fingers, called sponge by the men, which showed we were over the pastures +of the haddock. That was all we saw of a foundered region of prehistoric +Europe, where once there was a ridge in the valley of that lost river to +which the Rhine and Thames were tributaries. Our forefathers, +prospecting that attractive and remunerative plateau of the Dogger, on +their pilgrimage to begin making our England what it is, caught deer +where we were netting cod. I almost shuddered at the thought, as though +even then I felt the trawl of another race of men, who had strangely +forgotten all our noble deeds and precious memories, catching in the ruin +of St. Stephen's Tower, and the strangers, unaware of what august relic +was beneath them, cursing that obstruction to their progress. Anyhow, we +should have the laugh of them there; but these aeons of time are +desperate waters into which to sink one's thought. It sinks out of +sight. It goes down to dark nothing. + +Well, it happened to be the sun of my day just then, and our time for +catching cod, with the reasonable hope, too, that we should find the city +still under St. Stephen's Tower when we got back, as a place to sell our +catch. + +Our empty boxes were discharged. Led by the admiral, the +_Windhover_--with the rest of the fleet--lowered her trawl, and went +dipping slowly and quietly over the hills, towing her sunken net. The +admiral of a fishing-fleet is a great man. All is in his hands. He +chooses the grounds. Our admiral, it was whispered to me, was the wizard +of the north. The abundant fish-pastures were revealed to him in his +dreams. It was my last evening on the Bank. The day had been +wonderfully fine for winter and a sea that is notoriously evil. At +twilight the wind dropped, the heave of the waters decreased. The +scattered fleet, gliding through the hush, carried red, green, and white +planets. The ships which lay in the western glow were black and simple +shapes. Those to the east of us were remarkable with a chromatic +prominence, and you thought, while watching them, that till that moment +you had not really seen them. Presently the moon cleared the edge of the +sea, a segment of frozen light, and moored to our stern with a quivering, +ghostly line. + +Coloured rockets sailed upwards from the admiral when he changed his mind +and his course, and then the city of mobile streets altered its plan, and +rewove its constellation. At midnight white flares burned forward on all +the boats. The trawls were to be hauled. Our steam-winch began to bang +its cogs in the heavy work of lifting the net. All hands assembled to +see what would be our luck. The light sent a silver lane through the +night, and men broke through the black walls of that brilliant separation +of the darkness, and vanished on the other side. Leaning overside, I +could see the pocket of our trawl drawing near, still some fathoms deep, +a phosphorescent and flashing cloud. It came inboard, and was suspended +over the deck, a bulging mass, its bottom was unfastened, and out gushed +our catch, slithering over the deck, convulsive in the scuppers. The +mass of blubber and plasm pulsed with an elfish glow. + + +9 + +We were homeward bound. The flat sea was dazzling with reflected +sunshine, and a shade had to be erected over the binnacle for the man at +the wheel. It might have been June, yet we had but few days to +Christmas. The noon ceiling was a frail blue, where gauze was suspended +in motionless loops and folds. The track of the sun was incandescent +silver. A few sailing vessels idled in the North Channel, their sails +slack; but we could not see a steamer in what is one of the world's +busiest fairways. We ran on a level keel, and there was no movement but +the tremor of the engines. We should catch the tide at the Shipwash, and +go up on it to Billingsgate and be home by midnight. How foolish it is +to portion your future, at sea! + +It was when I was arranging what I should do in the later hours of that +day, when we were at Billingsgate, that the skipper, staring round the +North Channel, said to me: "It looks as though London had been wiped out +since we left it. Where's the ships?" + +The Maplin watched us pass with its red eye. We raised all the lights +true and clear. I went below, and we were talking of London, and the +last trains, when the engine-room telegraph gave us a great shock. "Stop +her!" we heard the watch cry below. + +I don't know how we got on deck. There were too many on the companion +ladder at the same time. While we were struggling upwards we heard that +frantic bell ring often enough to drive the engine-room people +distracted. I got to the ship's side in time to see a liner's bulk glide +by. She would have been invisible but for her strata of lights. She was +just beyond our touch. A figure on her, high over us, came to her rail, +distinct in the blur of the light of a cabin behind him, and shouted at +us. I remember very well what he said, but it is forbidden to put down +such words here. The man at our wheel paid no attention to him, that +danger being now past, and so of no importance. He continued to spin the +spokes desperately, because, though we could not see the ships about us, +we could hear everywhere the alarm of their bells. We had run at eleven +knots into a bank of fog which seemed full of ships. The moon was +looking now over the top of the wall of fog, yet the _Windhover_, which, +with engines reversed, seemed to be going ahead with frightful velocity, +drove into an opacity in which there was nothing but the warning sounds +of a great fear of us. I imagined in the dark the loom of impending +bodies, and straining overside in an effort to make them out, listening +to the murmur of the stream, nervously fanned the fog with my hat in a +ridiculous effort to clear it. Twice across our bows perilous shadows +arose, sprinkled with stars, yet by some luck they drifted silently by +us, and the impact we expected and were braced for was not felt. + +I don't know how long it was before the _Windhover_ lost way, but we +anchored at last, and our own bell began to ring. When our unseen +neighbours heard the humming of our exhaust, their frantic appeal +subsided, and only now and then they gave their bells a shaking, perhaps +to find whether we answered from the same place. There was an absolute +silence at last, as though all had crept stealthily away, having left us, +lost and solitary, in the fog. We felt confident there would be a +clearance soon, so but shrouded our navigation lights. But the rampart +of fog grew higher, veiled the moon, blotted it out, expunged the last +and highest star. We were imprisoned. We lay till morning, and there +was only the fog, and ourselves, and a bell-buoy somewhere which tolled +dolefully. + +And morning was but a weak infiltration into our prison. A steadfast +inspection was necessary to mark even the dead water overside. The River +was the same colour as the fog. For a fortnight we had been without +rest. We had become used to a little home which was unstable, and +sometimes delirious, and a sky that was always falling, and an earth that +rose to meet the collapse. Here we were on a dead level, still and +silent, with the men whispering, and one felt inclined to reel with +giddiness. We were fixed to a dumb, unseen river of a world that was +blind. + +There was one movement. It was that of the leisurely motes of the fog. +We watched them--there was nothing else to do--for a change of wind. A +change did not seem likely, for the rigging was hoar with frost, and ice +glazed our deck. + +Sometimes the fog would seem to rise a few feet. It was a cruel +deception to play on the impatient. A mere cork, a tiny dark object like +that, drifting along some distance out, would make a focal point in the +fog, and would give the illusion of a clearance. Once, parading the deck +as the man on watch, giving an occasional shake to the bell, I went +suddenly happy with the certainty that I was now to be the harbinger of +good tidings to those below playing cards. A vague elevated line +appeared to starboard. I watched it grow into definition, a coast +showing through a haze that was now dissolving. Up they all tumbled at +my shout. They stared at the wonder hopefully and silently. The coast +became higher and darker, and the skipper was turning to give orders--and +then our hope turned into a wide path on the ebbing River made by cinders +moving out on the tide. The cinders passed. We re-entered our silent +tomb. There had been no sign of our many neighbours of the night before, +but suddenly we heard some dreadful moans, the tentative efforts of a +body surprised by pain, and these sounds shaped, hilariously lachrymose, +into a steam hooter playing "Auld Lang Syne," and then "Home, Sweet +Home." There followed an astonishing amount of laughter from a hidden +audience. The prisoners in the neighbouring cells were there after all, +and were even jolly. The day thereafter was mute, the yellow walls at +evening deepened to ochre, to umber, and became black, except where our +riding lights made luminous circles. Each miserable watcher who came +down to the saloon that night, muffled and sparkling with frost, to get a +drink of hot coffee, just drank it, and went on deck again without a word. + +The motes next morning went drifting leisurely on the same light air, +interminable. Our prison appeared even narrower. Then once again a +clearance was imagined. Our skipper thought he saw a lane along the +River, and up-anchored. The noise of our cable awoke a tumult of +startled bells. + +Ours was a perishable cargo. We were much overdue. Our skipper was +willing to take any risk--what a good master mariner would call a +reasonable risk--to get home; and so, when a deck hand, on the third +morning, with the thawing fog dripping from his moustache, appeared in +the saloon with the news that it was clearing a little, the master +decided he would go. + +I then saw, from the deck of the _Windhover_, so strange a vision that it +could not be related to this lower sphere of ours. It could be thought +that dawn's bluish twilight radiated from the _Windhover_. We were the +luminary, and our faint aura revealed, through the melting veil, an outer +world that had no sky, no plane, no bounds. It was void. There was no +River, except that small oval of glass on which rested our ship, like a +model. + +The universe, which that morning had only begun to form in the void, was +grouped about us. This was the original of mornings. We were its +gravitational point. It was inert and voiceless. It was pregnant with +unawakened shapes, dim surprising shadows, the suggestions of forms. +Those near to us more nearly approached the shapes we knew in another +life. Those beyond, diminishing and fainting in the obscurity of the +dawn, were beyond remembrance and recognition. The _Windhover_ alone was +substantial and definite. But placed about us, suspended in a night that +was growing translucent, were the shadows of what might once have been +ships, perhaps were ships to be, but were then steamers and sailers +without substance, waiting some creative word, shrouded spectres that had +left the wrecks of their old hulls below, their voyages finished, and +were waiting to begin a new existence, having been raised to our level in +a new world boundless and serene, with unplumbed deeps beneath them. +There, on our level, we maintained them in their poise with our superior +gravity and our certain body, giving them light, being what sun there was +in this new system in another sky. Above them there was nothing, and +around them was blind distance, and below them the abyss of space. Their +lights gathered to our centre, an incoming of delicate and shining +mooring lines. + +It was all so silent, too. But our incoming cable shattered the spell, +and when our siren warned them that we were moving, a wild pealing +commenced which accompanied us on the long drift up to Gravesend. There +were eight miles of ships: barges, colliers, liners, clippers, cargo +steamers, ghost after ghost took form ahead, and then went astern. More +than once the fog thickened again, but the skipper never took way off her +while he could make out a ship ahead of us. We drifted stern first on +the flood, with half-turns of the propeller for steering purchase, till a +boatman, whom we hailed, cried that we were off Gravesend. And was there +any one for the shore? + +There was. I took no more risks. I had been looking for that life-boat. +And what a thing it was to have solid paving-stones under one's feet +again. There were naphtha flares in the fog, dingy folk in muddy ways, +and houses that kept to one place. There was a public-house, too. +Outside that place I remembered the taste of everlasting fried fish, and +condensed milk in weak tea; and so entered, and corrected the +recollection with a glass of port--several glasses, to make sure of +it--and that great hunk of plum-cake which I had occasionally seen in a +dream. Besides, this was Christmas Eve. + + + + +XI. An Old Lloyd's Register + +With the sensation that I had survived into a strange and a hostile era +that had nothing to do with me, for its affairs were not mine, I was +inside a submarine, during the War, talking to her commander. He was +unravelling for me the shining complexity of his "box of tricks," as he +called his ship. He was sardonic (there was no doubt he was master of +the brute he so lightly villified), and he was blithe, and he +illustrated his scientific monologue with stories of his own +experiences in the Heligoland Bight. These, to me, were like the +bedevilments of those dreams from which we groan to awake, but cannot. +The curious doings of this new age, I thought as I listened to him, +would have just the same interest for me as the relics of an extinct +race of men, except for the urgent remembrance that one of the +monstrous accidents this child knows of might happen now. That made an +acute difference. This was not nightmare, nor ridiculous romance, but +actuality. And as I looked at this mocking youngster, I saw he was +like the men of that group on the _Queen Mary_ who were similarly +mocking, for my benefit, but a few weeks before, their expert share in +forwarding the work we had given them in this new age; and then where +were they? Ships I knew, but not such ships as these, nor such work. + +Another officer joined us, an older man, and said this to him was +strange navigation. He was a merchant seaman. He had served his time +in sailing ships. I asked him to name some of them, having the feeling +that I could get back to the time I knew if I could but hail the ghost, +with another survivor from the past, of one of those forgotten ships. +"Well," he replied, "there was the _Cutty Sark_." + +If he had said the _Golden Hind_ I should not have been more +astonished. In a sense, it was the same thing. The _Cutty Sark_ was +in the direct line with the Elizabethan ships, but at the end. That +era, though it closed so recently, was already as far as a vague +memory. The new sea engines had come, and here we were with them, +puzzled and embarrassed, having lost our reasonable friends. I told +him I had known the _Cutty Sark_, and had seen that master of hers--a +character who went about Poplar in a Glengarry cap--who gave one of her +masts (the mizzen, I think) a golden rooster, after he had driven her +from Sydney Heads to the Channel to break the record--Captain Woodget. +His men said it was like living in a glass house. + +I recalled to him that once, when my business was concerned with bills +of lading and freight accounts, I was advised to ship four hundred +cases to Sydney, New South Wales; and one-half of that consignment, my +instructions ran, was to arrive a month before the other. The first +lot went in a modern steel barque, the _Cairnbulg_. ("I have seen +her," said this submarine officer). More than a fortnight later, being +too young to remember that the little _Cutty Sark_ had been one of the +China tea clippers, I shipped the last half of the consignment in her. +But she disordered all the careful plans of the consignees. She got in +a fortnight ahead of the _Cairnbulg_. + +The effect of that casual recollection on the submarine officer was +distinctly unwarlike. This memory, and not his present work, might +have been the real thing. He knew Woodget, the man in the Glengarry. +He wanted to know more; ever so much more. He mentioned other ships +and masters, to induce me. I got the idea that he would let his mind, +at least, escape into that time, if only I would help him to let it go. +But there was that potent and silent enigma about us. . . . + +No such escape for him. We have fashioned other ships, and must use +them. What we have conjured up compels us to live with it. But when +you do not go to sea you may have what ships you like. There is some +but not much interest in the reappearance in the newspapers of the +sailing lists; a few of the old names appear again, though new ships +bear them. But late at night, when a westerly wind with rain turns for +me a neighbouring yew tree into an invisible surge, then it is the +fortune of one who remembers such as the _Cutty Sark_ to choose +different ships and other times. Why not choose them? They were +comely ships, and now their time seems fair. Who would care to +remember the power and grey threat of a modern warship, or the exotic +luxury of a liner of this new era? Nobody who remembers the +graciousness of the clippers, nor the pride and content of the seamen +who worked them. To aid the illusion of the yew, I have one of those +books which are not books, a _Lloyd's Register of Shipping_ for 1880, +that by some unknown circuitous route found its way from its first +owner in Madras to my suburb. It goes very well with the surge of yew, +when westerly weather comes to unite them. + +I should like to know how that book got to London. Somewhere in it is +the name of the ship which carried it. Anyhow, I think I can make out +in it the houseflag of that ship. It, was, I believe, one of J. H. +Allan's teak-built craft, a forgotten line--the _Rajah of Cochin_, the +_Copenhagen_, the _Lincelles_,--though only just before the War, in the +South-West India Dock, I met a stranger, a seaman looking for work, who +regretted its disappearance, and the new company-owned steamers; for he +said they were good ships, "but more than that," he told me, "Allan was +an old gentleman who knew his own ships, and knew his men." This +stranger said you forget a ship now as soon as you are paid off, "and +glad to," and "you don't ever know who owns her, even if there's a +strike. Parsons and old maids and Cardiff sharks, I reckon." + +Very likely. But what sharks once were in it have all disappeared from +my Register. It belongs to those days when, if you went to New +Zealand, you had to go by sailer; when the East India Dock had an +arcade of jib-booms and bowsprits, with sometimes a varnished shark's +tail terminal--the _Euterpe_, _Jessie Readman_, _Wanganui_, _Wazmea_, +_Waimate_, _Opawa_, _Margaret Galbraith_, _Helen Denny_, _Lutterworth_, +and _Hermione_. There were others. What is in these names? But how +can we tell? There were personal figureheads, there were shapely +forms, each with its own narrative of adventure, there was the +undiscovered sea, and there was youth; and these have gone. + +It is all very well to say that the names and mere words in this old +Register have no more meaning today than a railway time-table of the +same date. Hardly to be distinguished in the shadows in some corners +of St. Paul's Cathedral from which night never quite goes, there are +certain friendless regimental colours. Few of us know now who bore +them, and where, and why; but imagine the deserved fate of one who +would allow a brutal word to disturb their dust! They mean nothing, +except that men, in a world where it is easy to lose faith, treasure +the few tokens of faithfulness, courage, and enterprise proved in their +fellows; and so those old staffs, to which cling faded and dusty rags, +in a real sense support the Cathedral. Poplar once was a parish whose +name was more familiar in Eastern seas and on the coasts of the +Americans, and stood for something greater and of more value, than the +names of some veritable capital cities. That vista down the East India +Dock Road from North Street, past the plane trees which support on a +cloud the cupola of Green's Chapel, to the gateway of the dock which +was built for John Company, was what many would remember as essential +London who would pass the Mansion House as though it were a dingy and +nameless tavern. At the back of that road today, and opposite a church +which was a chapel-of-ease to save the crews of the East Indiamen lying +off Blackwall the long walk to Stebonhythe Church, is the public +library; and within that building are stored, as are the regimental +colours in the Cathedral, the houseflags of those very ships my +Register helps me to remember--the tokens of fidelity and courage, of a +service that was native, and a skill in that service which was +traditional to the parish. Tokens that now are dusty and in their +night, understood only by the few who also belong to the past. + +There is the houseflag of the _Cutty Sark_, and her sister ships the +_Dharwar_, _Blackadder_, _Coldstream_--but one must be careful, and +refuse to allow these names to carry one-way. There are so many of +them. They are all good. Each can conjure up a picture and a memory. +They are like those names one reads in spring in a seed-merchant's +catalogue. They call to be written down, to be sung aloud, to be +shared with a friend. But I know the quick jealousy of some old +sailor, his pride wounded here by an unjustifiable omission of the ship +that was the one above all others for him, is bound to be moved by +anything less than a complete reprint here of the Register. How, for +example, could I give every name in the fleet of the White Star of +Aberdeen? Yet was not each ship, with her green hull and white spars, +as moving as a lyric? Is there in London River today a ship as +beautiful as the old _Thermopylae_? There is not. It is impossible. +There was the _Samuel Plimsoll_ of that line--now a coal hulk at +Gibraltar--which must be named, for she was Captain Simpson's ship (he +was commodore afterwards), the "merry blue-eyed skipper" of Froude's +_Oceana_, but much more than that, a sage and masterful Scot whose talk +was worth a long journey to hear. + +The houseflag of Messrs. R. and H. Green, in any reference to the ships +of Blackwall, should have been mentioned first. There is a sense in +which it is right to say that the founder of that firm, at a time when +American craft like the Boston clippers of Donald McKay were in a fair +way to leave the Red Ensign far astern, declared that Blackwall had to +beat those American flyers, and did it. But that was long before the +eighties, and when steam was still ridiculed by those who could not see +it equalling clippers that had logged fourteen knots, or made a day's +run of over three hundred miles. Yet some of Green's ships came down +to the end of the era, like the _Highflyer_ and the _Melbourne_. The +latter was renamed the _Macquarie_, and was one of the last of the +clippers to come home to Poplar, and for that reason, and because of +her noble proportions, her picture is kept, as a reminder, by many who +wish to think of ships and the sea as they were. It is likely that +most who live in Poplar now, and see next to its railway station the +curious statue of a man and a dog, wonder who on earth Richard Green, +Esq., used to be; though there are a few oldsters left still who +remember Blackwall when its shipwrights, riggers, sailmakers, and +caulkers were men of renown and substance, and who can recall, not only +Richard Green, but that dog of his, for it knew the road to the dock +probably better than most of those who use it today. Poplar was the +nursery of the Clyde. The flags which Poplar knew well would puzzle +London now--Devitt and Moore's, Money Wigram's, Duthie's, Willis's, +Carmichael's, Duncan Dunbar's, Scrutton's, and Elder's. But when +lately our merchant seamen surprised us with a mastery of their craft +and a fortitude which most of us had forgotten were ever ours, what +those flags represented, a regard for a tradition as ancient and as +rigorous as that of any royal port, was beneath it all. + +But if it were asked what was this tradition, it would not be easy to +say. Its authority is voiceless, but it is understood. Then what is +it one knows of it? I remember, on a day just before the War, the +flood beginning to move the shipping of the Pool. Eastward the black +cliffs lowered till they sank under the white tower of Limehouse +Church; and the church, looking to the sunset, seemed baseless, shining +with a lunar radiance. Upriver, the small craft were uncertain, moving +like phantoms over a pit of bottomless fire. But downstream every ship +was as salient as though lighted with the rays of a great lantern. And +there in that light was a laden barque, outward bound, waiting at the +buoys. She headed downstream. Her row of white ports diminished along +the length of her green hull. The lines of her bulwarks, her sheer, +fell to her waist, then airily rose again, came up and round to merge +in one fine line at the jibboom. The lines sweeping down and airily +rising again were light as the swoop of a swallow. The symmetry of her +laden hull set in a plane of dancing sun-points, and her soaring amber +masts, cross-sparred, caught in a mesh of delicate cordage, and shining +till they almost vanished where they rose above the buildings and stood +against the sky, made her seem as noble and haughty as a burst of great +music. One of ours, that ship. Part of our parish. + + + +***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LONDON RIVER*** + + +******* This file should be named 15167.txt or 15167.zip ******* + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/5/1/6/15167 + + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, +set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to +copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to +protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. Project +Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you +charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission. 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